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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/26048-h.zip b/26048-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8fbf645 --- /dev/null +++ b/26048-h.zip diff --git a/26048-h/26048-h.htm b/26048-h/26048-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f959647 --- /dev/null +++ b/26048-h/26048-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,9525 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=us-ascii" /> +<title>Some Reminiscences of old Victoria</title> +<style type="text/css"> +<!-- +body {padding-right: 10%; padding-left: 10%;} +div#titlepage {text-align: center; line-height: 2.0; margin-top: 4em;} +div#verso, div#dedication {text-align: center; font-size: 90%; margin-top: 3em;} +div#toc {margin-top: 4em; margin-bottom: 2em; width:70%; margin-left:15%; margin-right:15%;} +h3 {text-align: center; font-size: 1.2em; padding-top: 4em; margin-bottom: 2em; clear:both;} +p.chapname {text-align: center; font-size: 1.2em; margin-bottom: 2em; font-style: italic;} +.pagenum {position: absolute; left: 92%; font-size: smaller; text-align: right; font-style: normal; color: silver; background-color: inherit;} +div#tnote, div#fnote1 {border: dashed 1px; padding: 1em;} +div.imgcenter {text-align: center; margin: 1em auto;} +div.imgright {float: right; margin: 0em 0em 1em 1em;} +a {text-decoration:none;} +hr {width: 50%;} +p.dateline, p.sig {text-align: right; margin: 0.5em 2em 0.5em auto;} +.sc {font-variant: small-caps; font-style: normal;} +td.numb {text-align: right; vertical-align: top; padding: 0.3em 1em;} + .verse {margin: 1em 0em 0em 5%; text-align: left; } + .stanza {margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 0em;} + .stanza br {display: none;} + .verse span.i0 {display: block; } + .verse span.i2 {display: block; margin-left: 1em;} + .verse span.i4 {display: block; margin-left: 2em;} + .verse span.i6 {display: block; margin-left: 3em;} + +--> +</style> +</head> + +<body> + + +<pre> + +Project Gutenberg's Some Reminiscences of old Victoria, by Edgar Fawcett + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Some Reminiscences of old Victoria + +Author: Edgar Fawcett + +Release Date: July 13, 2008 [EBook #26048] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SOME REMINISCENCES OF OLD VICTORIA *** + + + + +Produced by Andrew Sly, Julia Miller and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img01"> +<img width="836" height="575" src="images/vi01.jpg" alt="[Illustration: FORT VICTORIA, 1859.]" /> +</div> + +<div id="titlepage"> +<h1>SOME REMINISCENCES<br /> + +OF<br /> + +OLD VICTORIA</h1> + +<p>BY<br /> + +EDGAR FAWCETT</p> + + +<p> + Toronto<br /> + William Briggs<br /> + 1912</p> +</div> + +<div id="verso"> +<p> + Copyright, Canada, 1912, by<br /> + EDGAR FAWCETT.</p> +</div> + +<div id="dedication"> +<p>TO<br /> + +<b>Sir Richard McBride. K.C.M.G.</b><br /> + + PREMIER, NATIVE SON AND PIONEER<br /> + THIS BOOK IS INSCRIBED BY<br /> + HIS HUMBLE SERVANT<br /> + THE AUTHOR.</p> +</div> + + + +<h3>PREFACE</h3> + + +<p class="sc">To My Readers:—</p> + +<p>A preface is, as I understand it, an explanation, and maybe an +apology, for what follows. If such is the case, I must explain +several things contained in these "Reminiscences of Old Victoria" and +its pioneers. Had I not been laid aside with the typhoid some eight +years ago, it is likely I should not have thought of writing down +these early memories, but many know what convalescing after a +sickness is—how one longs for something new, something to do. I was +at this time at the seaside, and all at once decided to pass my time +in writing. Seated comfortably on the beach with my writing pad, I +commenced "A British Boy’s Experiences in San Francisco in the Early +Fifties," and so have continued on from time to time during the last +eight years.</p> + +<p>I have been much encouraged, by pioneers and friends, to gather the +result of these pleasant labors together, and I feel I have succeeded +in a very imperfect manner; but, dear reader, consider how little I +should be expected to know of book-making; therefore take faults and +omissions in the product of my labors <i>cum bona venia</i>, for +there are sure to be many imperfections. There are repetitions of +which I am aware, and have decided to let them stand, as I think they +fit in in each case. Had I been a man of more leisure I should not +have had to apologize for so many of these imperfections.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.4</p> + +<p>I have to thank Mrs. Macdonald, of Armadale, the venerable Bishop +Cridge, and Alexander Wilson, for valuable information, and also Mr. +Albert Maynard and Reverend A. E. Alston for many photographs to +illustrate the book. We all know that a book in these days is nothing +without pictures. There are others who have helped me in other ways +who will accept my thanks.</p> + +<p>With these explanatory remarks, and in fear and trembling, I submit +the book to your favorable consideration.</p> + +<p><em class="sc">Dingley Dell</em>,<br /> + Christmas, 1911.</p> + + +<p class="pagenum">p.5</p> + + + + +<h3>A SHORT AUTOBIOGRAPHY</h3> + + +<p>All the Fawcetts I ever heard of from my father and mother came from +Kidderminster. My father’s father was a maltster, and the sons, with +the exception of my father, the youngest, were carpet weavers. The +family were strict Nonconformists, and produced one or two noted +divines of George the Third’s day, one of whom preached before that +king. There was also a kinship with the Baxters of "Saint’s Rest" +fame.</p> + +<p>My mother was Jane Wignall, whose father was a Birmingham smallarms +manufacturer in rather a large way of business, but who through the +dishonesty of his partner was nearly ruined and brought to +comparative poverty. The daughters, who were all well educated, had +to take positions as governesses and ladies’ companions. My mother, +in this capacity, lived and travelled in France and Spain, and spoke +the languages of both countries. In a voyage to her home from +Barcelona she was wrecked in the Gulf of Lyons, but through the +timely assistance of a Spanish gentleman and his Newfoundland dog, +who bore her up, she was brought to shore in little more than her +nightdress. I have to-day a letter from the British consul at +Marseilles which he gave to my mother, recommending her to the care +of other British consuls on her way to England. The Spanish gentleman +who saved her life made an offer of marriage, which my mother +declined, I think, <span class="pagenum">p.6</span> on account of his being a Roman Catholic. He would +not take no for an answer, but later on followed her to England and +offered himself a second time without effect. Shortly after this she +and my father were married, and on the advice of Rowland Hill, his +cousin (Sir Rowland Hill), he took his young bride to Australia. +Rowland Hill, being his father’s trustee under his will, paid my +father his share, with which he took a stock of goods and started +business in Sydney.</p> + +<p>In 1849 we left Sydney, where I was born, for San Francisco—father, +mother, my brother Rowland and myself, in the ship <i>Victoria</i>. +This vessel my father afterwards purchased and sent to Alberni, or +Sooke, for a load of lumber for England, when we all were going with +her. The vessel never came back, having been wrecked somewhere near +where all the wrecks have since taken place, on the west coast of +this island. My father was ruined, for there was no insurance, so he +had to start life anew. He came north to Victoria in 1858, where he +entered into business until appointed Government Agent at Nanaimo, +where he served some years, dying at the advanced age of seventy-six. +My mother died in 1863, and at the present writing, in addition to +myself, there is one brother in Victoria—Rowland—and another +brother, Arthur, in London, England.</p> + +<p>The author has completed his fifty-three years in this fair city.</p> + +<p><em class="sc">Dingley Dell</em>,<br /> + December 20th, 1911.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.7</p> + + +<div id="toc"> +<h4 style="text-align:center;font-size:150%;">CONTENTS</h4> + +<table> +<tr><th>CHAPTER.</th><th></th><th>PAGE</th></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">I.</td><td><a href="#rov01">The Experiences of a British Boy in San +Francisco in the Early Fifties</a></td><td class="numb">11</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">II.</td><td><a href="#rov02">Theatrical Memories</a></td><td class="numb">20</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">III.</td><td><a href="#rov03">My Boyhood Days in Victoria</a></td><td class="numb">26</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">IV.</td><td><a href="#rov04">Victoria’s First Directory</a></td><td class="numb">38</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">V.</td><td><a href="#rov05" id="emen1">Some Recollections of Victoria by One who Was There in the Sixties</a></td><td class="numb">57</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">VI.</td><td><a href="#rov06">A Little More Street History</a></td><td class="numb">68</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">VII.</td><td><a href="#rov07">The Victoria <i>Gazette</i>, 1858</a></td><td class="numb">73</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">VIII.</td><td><a href="#rov08">Victoria in 1859–1860</a></td><td class="numb">84</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">IX.</td><td><a href="#rov09">Fires and Firemen</a></td><td class="numb">92</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">X.</td><td><a href="#rov10">A Siberian Mammoth</a></td><td class="numb">100</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XI.</td><td><a href="#rov11">Mrs. Edwin Donald, Hon. Wymond Hamley, Hon. G. A. Walkem</a></td><td class="numb">109</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XII.</td><td><a href="#rov12">The Consecration of the Iron Church</a></td><td class="numb">115</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XIII.</td><td><a href="#rov13">The Iron Church Again</a></td><td class="numb">121</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XIV.</td><td><a href="#rov14">Its Departed Glories, or Esquimalt, Then and Now</a></td><td class="numb">124</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XV.</td><td><a href="#rov15">Old Quadra Street Cemetery</a></td><td class="numb">129</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XVI.</td><td><a href="#rov16">Pioneer Society’s Banquet</a></td><td class="numb">144</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XVII.</td><td><a href="#rov17">Victoria District Church</a></td><td class="numb">149</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XVIII.</td><td><a href="#rov18">Christmas In Pioneer Days</a></td><td class="numb">153</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XIX.</td><td><a href="#rov19">The Queen’s Birthday Forty Years Ago</a></td><td class="numb">159</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XX.</td><td><a href="#rov20">Evolution of the Victoria Post Office</a></td><td class="numb">166</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XXI.</td><td><a href="#rov21">Fifty Years Ago</a></td><td class="numb">170</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XXII.</td><td><a href="#rov22">Forty Years Ago</a></td><td class="numb">174</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XXIII.</td><td><a href="#rov23">The Late Governor Johnson</a></td><td class="numb">178</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XXIV.</td><td><a href="#rov24">A Trip to a Coral Island</a></td><td class="numb">181</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XXV.</td><td><a href="#rov25">A Victorian’s Visit to Southern California</a></td><td class="numb">183</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XXVI.</td><td><span class="pagenum">p.8</span><a href="#rov26">An Historic Steamer</a></td><td class="numb">199</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XXVII.</td><td><a href="#rov27">Colonel Wolfenden—In Memoriam</a></td><td class="numb">203</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XXVIII.</td><td><a href="#rov28">The Closing of View Street in 1858</a></td><td class="numb">206</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XXIX.</td><td><a href="#rov29">Mr. Fawcett Retires from the Customs</a></td><td class="numb">212</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XXX.</td><td><a href="#rov30">Some Colored Pioneers</a></td><td class="numb">215</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XXXI.</td><td><a href="#rov31">John Chapman Davie, M.D.</a></td><td class="numb">220</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XXXII.</td><td><a href="#rov32">The Beginning of the Royal Hospital and Protestant Orphan’s Home</a></td><td class="numb">226</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XXXIII.</td><td><a href="#rov33">Victoria’s First Y. M. C. A.</a></td><td class="numb">229</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XXXIV.</td><td><a href="#rov34">The Late Mr. T. Geiger</a></td><td class="numb">234</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XXXV.</td><td><a href="#rov35">Roster of the Fifty-Eighters</a></td><td class="numb">237</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XXXVI.</td><td><a href="#rov36">More Light on Closing of View Street</a></td><td class="numb">240</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XXXVII.</td><td><a href="#rov37">Bishop Cridge’s Christmas Story</a></td><td class="numb">244</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XXXVIII.</td><td><a href="#rov38">Christmas Reminiscences</a></td><td class="numb">258</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XXXIX.</td><td><a href="#rov39">My First Christmas Dinner in Victoria, 1860</a></td><td class="numb">263</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XL.</td><td><a href="#rov40">Evolution of the Songhees</a></td><td class="numb">283</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="numb">XLI.</td><td><a href="#rov41">Victoria the New and the Old</a></td><td class="numb">288</td></tr> + +</table> +</div> + +<p class="pagenum">p.9</p> + + + +<h4 style="text-align:center;font-size:150%;">ILLUSTRATIONS</h4> +<ul> + <li><a href="#img01">Fort Victoria, 1859, Showing Fort St. Gate</a></li> + <li><a href="#img11">Government Street, Looking North</a></li> + <li><a href="#img03">Government Street in 1860</a></li> + <li><a href="#img04">S. E. corner Government and Yates Streets, 1858</a></li> + <li><a href="#img06">Lady Douglas</a></li> + <li><a href="#img06">Sir James Douglas</a></li> + <li><a href="#img02">Edgar Fawcett</a></li> + <li><a href="#img20">Hon. Wymond Hamley</a></li> + <li><a href="#img32">George Richardson</a></li> + <li><a href="#img27">George Hills, D.D.</a></li> + <li><a href="#img30">Henry Wootton</a></li> + <li><a href="#img08">Capt. John Irving, Sr.</a></li> + <li><a href="#img24">Quadra Street Cemetery</a></li> + <li><a href="#img09">A Group of Early Legislators</a></li> + <li><a href="#img12">Fort Street, Looking East</a></li> + <li><a href="#img13">Yates Street, Looking East</a></li> + <li><a href="#img05">Fort Street, Extending Through the Fort</a></li> + <li><a href="#img14">Old View of Government Street</a></li> + <li><a href="#img31">Government Street Before the Removal of the "Old Bastion"</a></li> + <li><a href="#img10">Wharf Street, From Corner Fort Street Northward</a></li> + <li><a href="#img42">Craigflower, Showing School, 1858</a></li> + <li><a href="#img17">First Bridge Over James Bay, 1859</a></li> + <li><a href="#img16">Government Buildings, 1859–60</a></li> + <li><a href="#img18">May Day Parade, Hook and Ladder Company, May 1st, 1862</a></li> + <li><a href="#img43">Hon. Sir Richard McBride, K.C.M.G.</a></li> + <li><a href="#img21">Old View of Douglas Street, Iron Church in the Distance</a></li> + <li><a href="#img15">Showing Inside of Fort from Wharf Street, 1859</a></li> + <li><a href="#img49">Hon. Amor De Cosmos</a></li> + <li><a href="#img25">William P. Sayward</a></li> + <li><a href="#img28">Thomas Harris</a></li> + <li><a href="#img22">Bishop Garrett</a></li> + <li><a href="#img52">First Methodist Church</a></li> + <li><a href="#img23">First Bridge Over the Gorge, Victoria Arm</a></li> + <li><a href="#img29">Forty Years Ago, Queen’s Birthday, Beacon Hill</a></li> + <li><a href="#img19">Colonial Hotel</a></li> + <li><a href="#img35">H. B. Co.’s Steamer <i>Beaver</i></a></li> + <li><a href="#img44">Part of View Street, 1859</a></li> + <li><a href="#img26">Victoria District Church, 1859</a></li> + <li><a href="#img38">Hon. Senator Macdonald</a></li> + <li><a href="#img37">Lt.-Col. Wolfenden, I.S.O., V.D.</a></li> + <li><a href="#img07">Wm. Leigh</a></li> + <li><a href="#img41">John Chapman Davie, M.D.</a></li> + <li><a href="#img39">Edgar Fawcett</a></li> + <li><a href="#img36">Captain "Willie" Mitchell</a></li> + <li><a href="#img48">Hon. Dr. Helmcken</a></li> + <li><a href="#img33">Gov. John H. Johnson, of Minnesota</a></li> + <li><a href="#img40">Samuel Booth</a></li> + <li><a href="#img45">Rev. Edward Cridge, 1859</a></li> + <li><a href="#img47">Venerable Bishop Cridge</a></li> + <li><a href="#img46">Bishop and Mrs. Cridge at their Golden Jubilee</a></li> + <li><a href="#img34">A Park in San Bernardino</a></li> + <li><a href="#img50">Songhees Indian Reserve</a></li> + <li><a href="#img51">Bastion—S. W. Corner of Fort</a></li> +</ul> +<p class="pagenum">p.11</p> + + + +<h4 style="font-size:1.5em;text-align:center;margin-top:4em;">SOME REMINISCENCES OF OLD VICTORIA</h4> + + +<h3 id="rov01">CHAPTER I.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">THE EXPERIENCES OF A BRITISH BOY IN SAN FRANCISCO IN THE EARLY +FIFTIES.</p> + + +<p>I shall commence by saying that I, with my father, mother, brother +and sister, arrived in San Francisco in 1850, in the ship +<i>Victoria</i>, from Australia, where I was born. From stress of +weather we put into Honolulu to refit, and spent, I think, three +weeks there, and as my mother was not in good health the change and +rest on shore did her a deal of good. During our stay we became +acquainted with a wealthy American sugar planter, who was married to +a pretty native lady. They had no family, and she fell in love with +your humble servant, who was of the mature age of two and a half +years. My mother, of course, told me of this years later, how that +after consulting with her husband, the planter, she seriously +proposed to my mother that she give me to her for adoption as her +son; that I should be well provided for in the case of her husband’s +death, and in fact she made the most liberal offers if she might have +me for her own. It might have been a very important epoch in my life, +for if my mother had accepted, who knows but what I might have been +"King of the Hawaiian Islands," as the planter’s wife was "well +connected." <span class="pagenum">p.12</span> But, to proceed, my mother did not accept this +flattering offer, as naturally she would not, and so we continued +on our way to San Francisco with many remembrances of my admirer’s +kindness. But this is not telling of my experiences in San Francisco +eight years after.</p> + +<p>My first recollections are complimentary to the citizens of San +Francisco—that is, for their universal courtesy to women and +children; but this is a characteristic of the people, and I will +illustrate it in a small way. It was the custom in those days for +ladies to go shopping prepared to carry all they bought home with +them, and I used to accompany my mother on her shopping expeditions. +The streets and crossings were in a dreadfully muddy condition, and +women and children were carried over the crossings, and never was +there wanting a gallant gentleman ready to fulfil this duty, for a +duty it was considered then by all men to be attentive to women.</p> + +<p>What induced me to write these maybe uninteresting incidents, was the +last very interesting sketch of early life in San Francisco by my +friend, Mr. D. W. Higgins, giving an account of the doings of the +"Vigilance Committee," and the shooting of "James King of William," +as I remembered him named, and the subsequent execution of Casey for +that cold-blooded deed. Cold-blooded it was, for I was an +eye-witness, strange to say, of the affair, as I will now relate.</p> + +<p>I might premise by saying that my father was an enthusiastic +Britisher. But he was a firm believer in the American axiom, +though—"My country, may she ever be right; my country right or +wrong," and I, his son, echo the same sentiments. It is this +sentiment that makes me have no love for a pro-Boer. It was this +<span class="pagenum">p.13</span> pride of country that caused him to go to the expense of +subscribing for the <i>Illustrated London News</i> at fifty or +seventy-five cents a number, weekly, and I was on my way to Payot’s +bookstore to get the last number, with the latest account of the +Crimean War, then waging between England and France against Russia. I +was within a stone’s throw of Washington and Montgomery Streets, I +think, when I was startled by the sharp report of a pistol, and +looking around I saw at once where it proceeded from, for there were +about half a dozen people surrounding a man who had been shot. I, of +course, made for that point, being ever ready for adventure. The +victim of the shooting was James King of William, editor of the +<i>Evening Bulletin</i> newspaper, and the assassin was a notorious +politician named James Casey, proprietor of the <i>Sunday Times</i>, +but a very illiterate man for all that.</p> + +<p>The cause of the shooting was that James King of William had in his +paper stated that Casey had served a term in Sing Sing prison in New +York for burglary. This was true, and was afterwards admitted by +Casey, but that it should have been made known by an opponent’s +newspaper was too much for him, and he swore that King’s days were +numbered. He kept his word, as the event showed.</p> + +<p>The victim of the shooting was able to stagger forward towards the +Pacific Express building on the corner of Washington and Montgomery +Streets, and entered the office, only to drop to the floor. Several +doctors were soon in attendance, and his wound bandaged, and he was +eventually moved to Montgomery Block, where he remained until he +died, six days later. It was contended by Doctor Toland that King’s +death was caused by the leaving in the wound of the sponge that was +inserted <span class="pagenum">p.14</span> immediately after the shooting to stop hemorrhage. There +were about twenty doctors in all who attended King, so is it any +wonder he died?</p> + +<p>The assassin was taken in charge by his friends, some of whom were at +the time close at hand, and he was taken to the station, which was a +block away, and locked up. This was the safest thing for Casey, as +his friends were in office, and he expected to get off, even if tried +for the offence, as many a like rogue had done.</p> + +<p>It was not long after the shooting ere the bell of the Monumental +Engine House rang out an alarm. Ten thousand people assembled, as +louder pealed the bell. The crowd now surged in the direction of the +jail, calling out, "Lynch him! lynch him!" All this time I was swept +along in the living stream of people, and well it was for me that I +was able to keep upright, for had I fallen it is doubtful if I should +have been able to rise again. The jail was doubly guarded to prevent +the citizens from getting possession of Casey, who would have been +summarily dealt with. I was now able to get out of the crowd and go +home to tell of my wonderful adventure.</p> + +<p>I was always in trouble through my continual search for adventure. A +gentleman friend of ours, bookkeeper, in the San Francisco sugar +refinery, was one of the Vigilance Committee, which was composed of +all grades of society, from merchants to workingmen. There were five +thousand of them enrolled to work a reformation in city government, +which was then in the hands of gamblers, thieves and escaped +convicts. At home I heard the trial and execution of Casey discussed, +and decided at all hazards to go to the important event, but I knew +it would have to be done on the sly, as my mother would never have +consented. "I let the cat out of the <span class="pagenum">p.15</span> bag" somehow, as my mother +gave me a solemn warning that if I went I should get the worst +whipping I ever had in my life.</p> + +<p>I brooded on this for some days, and finally decided to go and take +my chances of being found out. So on the day I of course played +hookey, and got to the place early. I climbed up an awning post +nearly opposite the gallows, and sat on the top with some other +adventurous spirits, who, like myself, were hungry for adventure. I +shall not describe what I saw, for my friend, Mr. Higgins, has +already done that. When I got home I paid dearly for my disobedience. +My elder brother happened to have been opposite me, on the other side +of the street. I got my promised whipping, well laid on, and was sent +supperless to bed, feeling very sore. But I was not fated to go +without supper, for, as I lay unrepentant, Amy, my little sister, +crept into the room and brought me part of hers, and, what I more +appreciated then, her sympathy and tears. God bless her! She was +taken from us soon after to a better life.</p> + +<p>One afternoon later (I won’t be sure of dates), as father and I were +going home, we were arrested by the sweet strains of music, which +proceeded from a band a block away. Father hesitated for an instant, +then started off at a run, calling to me to come on. We were soon +there, and to explain father’s strange action in running after a band +of music, I have only to say that the tune was one dear to the hearts +of all Britons, "God Save the Queen," so, could you wonder at his +excitement, as we stood in front of the British Consulate? The reason +of it all was the news received that day of the fall of Sebastopol. +After a few words from the consul we all moved off to the French +Consulate, and here all was repeated, but to the strains of the +Marseillaise <span class="pagenum">p.16</span> hymn. Of course this good news was fully discussed +at home, and some days after it was decided to have the event +celebrated by the British and French residents by a procession and +banquet in a pavilion, with an ox and several sheep roasted whole. +The day arrived, and I, of course, had to go with father in the +procession, carrying a British flag. In the midst of the festivities +a lot of roughs broke into the pavilion, tore down the British and +French flags, and then worked havoc with the pavilion itself. It +was a most disgraceful affair, and would not have occurred, I am +confident, in any British possession; but then ours may not be such +a free country. Father was most indignant, and wrote to Marryat’s +newspaper calling on the British Consul to take official notice of +the affair, but I don’t remember the result. Marryat was, I believe, +an Englishman.</p> + +<p>The next little incident I shall name the "Battle of the Standard," +because it was all about a little flag. It was the celebration of the +laying of the Atlantic cable, and all the public school children took +part in a monster parade. Each child carried a small flag, such as we +have for the Queen’s birthday celebration in Canada.</p> + +<p>As may be supposed American flags swamped the British in numbers, +still there was a good sprinkling of the latter. I happened to be one +British boy among many American boys, and they bantered me +considerably about my flag being "alone," and at last exasperated me, +and on my flag being snatched away by a boy I snatched it back again, +and in the scuffle it was torn from the stick and I cried with +vexation. One of the teachers, however, supplied me with another, +which you may suppose I took good care of. Will the Americans never +get over their silly jealousy with respect to the flying of foreign <span class="pagenum">p.17</span> +flags in their country? We Canadians are always pleased to see +the Star Spangled Banner waving alongside the Union Jack, and hope it +may long wave.</p> + +<p>The Mexican coin valued at two reals, or two bits, as we called it +then, represented the value of two small apples in those days, and +everything was dear in proportion. These coins were more in +circulation than American, I think, the place being full of Mexicans. +They were very picturesque, riding about dressed in buckskin trousers +with fringe down the leg, wearing wide-brimmed felt hats and on their +heels immense spurs, which made a great noise as they walked. They +were a great attraction to me as they galloped like mad after cattle, +throwing with great skill a rawhide lariat or lasso, which rarely +missed its victim. My thirst for adventures led me with several other +kindred spirits to play hookey from school, and go into the country +to see these Mexicans drive wild cattle about, and then to the +slaughterhouse to see them killed. When I was found out I was well +whipped, of course, but I often escaped.</p> + +<p>San Francisco in those days was mostly built of wood, and when a fire +started, with a fair wind, the damage done was something enormous. My +spirit of adventure took me to many of these fires, in fact it was +hard to keep me in when a large one was burning. From our house I +have seen the greater part of the city swept away twice, and a +grander sight cannot be imagined, seen from an eminence, and maybe at +night, too. I was off like a shot, and, running all the way, was soon +on the scene. Anyone and everyone volunteered to help carry goods to +a place of safety, and hot work it was, I can tell you, for being +mostly of wood, and maybe redwood, they (the houses) burnt like +tinder. From running to so many fires and falling <span class="pagenum">p.18</span> down in my haste +I got my shins bruised and bleeding, and my trousers, of course, +torn. I was showing my children these scars only lately, they being +still much in evidence after fifty-four years.</p> + +<p>As I have before stated, the stores were built of redwood, and with +cellars. The floors of many had trapdoors, and when the fire got near +them the storekeeper opened the trapdoor, and all the goods were +swept off the shelves into the cellar, and covered up. After this the +owner of the building took a bee-line for the lumber yard to get in +his order for lumber for a new building ahead of his neighbor. They +were the exciting days and no mistake! A week after one of these +devastating fires all was built up and looked the same as usual. I +might state that the firebells rang on all occasions to bring the +citizens together in those times of tumult, and all prominent men +were firemen.</p> + +<p>I can well remember the election of President Buchanan, and if I +remember right, the voting was in the open air in each ward of the +city, the ballots being placed in large glass globes. At one of these +polling-places I saw a fight, the result of a dispute between a +Democrat and a Republican over an accusation by one that the other +had put in a double ticket (I think this was the cause).</p> + +<p>To close this history, I might say that my father and his partner put +all they had, some ten thousand dollars, into a venture which +eventually brought us to Vancouver Island to live. They bought a +vessel, and sent her in ballast to Alberni or Sooke for a load of +lumber, and it was arranged that on her return to San Francisco she +was to take the lumber to England, and we all were to go home again +in her. But "L’homme propose et Dieu dispose" was here exemplified, +for the <span class="pagenum">p.19</span> ship never came back. After weeks of anxiety when the ship +was overdue, one day either the captain, or the mate came to my +father with the news that the ship was wrecked in Barclay Sound, and +as there was not a dollar of insurance we were ruined, and had to +commence all over again.</p> + +<p>The result of all this was that later we embarked with about six +hundred others on the steamer <i>Northerner</i> for Victoria, to try +and retrieve something of what we lost. I will not vouch for the +accuracy of the dates or the rotation in which the incidents are +related, but I have done my best after cudgeling my brain for weeks +for the general result as here presented.</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img02"> +<img width="518" height="832" src="images/vi02.jpg" alt="[Portrait: Edgar Fawcett.]" /> +</div> + + +<p class="pagenum">p.20</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov02">CHAPTER II.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">THEATRICAL MEMORIES.</p> + +<p>In looking through a trunk of old letters and other odds and ends the +other day, I came across what might be considered of some interest to +some of our pioneers in the sixties. The find consisted of six +playbills, or, as they could very well be considered, theatrical +posters, from the size; but they were such as were then given to +people as they passed the doorkeeper into the old Victoria Theatre on +Government Street. They measure two feet long by ten inches wide, and +are like posters alongside those now used. These plays were produced +in the times of Governors Douglas and Seymour, and were under their +distinguished patronage.</p> + +<p>In those days very few theatrical companies visited Victoria, except +at irregular intervals, so that theatre-goers had to rely, to a great +extent, on the productions of the Victoria Amateur Dramatic Club to +fill up the intervals. At this date there were many well-educated and +professional men here who had come from the Old Country to get rich +in a short time; and, thinking the mines were close to this city, +many of these joined the club. Charles Clarke was a prominent member, +also W. M. Anderson, C. B. Tenniel, together with many of our young +business men, viz., Arthur Keast, the brewer; Lumley Franklin, the +auctioneer; S. Farwell, the civil engineer; H. C. Courtney, the +barrister; H. <span class="pagenum">p.21</span> Rushton and Joseph Barnett, of one of the banks; +Ben Griffin, mine host of the Boomerang; Godfrey Brown, of Janion, +Green & Rhodes; W. J. Callingham, of McCutcheon & Callingham, drapers +(the latter, by the bye, was a most clever low comedian); Plummer, +the auctioneer; and last, though not least, Alex. Phillips, of +soda water fame. These names will all be familiar to old pioneers. +As female talent was scarce, or they were loth to take part in +theatricals, the other sex had to be enlisted, and I shall not forget +the meeting at the Boomerang (our meeting-place) when this difficulty +was met by the suggestion that your humble servant should take +the part of "Emily Trevor" in "Boots at the Swan." I protested my +inability, but was overruled. Not yet having occasion to use a razor, +and being youthful, it was decided that I should try my hand at +female impersonation, under the "stage name" of "Helen Fawcet." The +result of the experiment was that I subsequently took the parts of +"Julia Jenkins" in "Who Stole the Pocket-book?" and "Mary Madden" in +"Henry Dunbar." This last character was a rather more difficult one +than the others, and although I was perfect in my part, I was +reported in the next morning’s <i>Colonist</i> by "Leigh Harnett" as +looking very sweet, etc., but "as not speaking up," which, of course, +was a serious defect. This criticism was a damper on my theatrical +aspirations in female parts, for I returned to the commonplace parts +of a poacher, a brigand and a footman. The performances were +generally given for some charity, such as the Orphans of St. Ann, the +fire department, and so forth, and were "under" the distinguished +patronage of Admiral Hastings and officers of H.M.S. <i>Reindeer</i>, and +<span class="pagenum">p.22</span> officers of the fleet often helped us out. I see by the bills that +the admission was $1.50 reserved seats, $1.00 unreserved, and 50 +cents "pit," with $10 for a box. "Performance to commence promptly +at 7.30." The orchestra was composed, with others, of Digby Palmer, +F. S. Bushell, Gunther and Roberts, with, I think, Bandmaster Haynes. +All our performances were given under the direction of R. G. Marsh, +a standard theatrical manager, who, with his wife, adopted daughter, +"Jenny Arnot," his son and Miss Yeoman, was a great help to us. In +fact without their assistance we could not have produced plays with +female characters. Not to make this too long, I will wind up by +giving what I can remember of a piece called "The Merchant of Venice +Preserved," by a local poet. It was full of local hits, which only +those who were acquainted with politics and the questions of the day +at that time will understand:</p> + +<div class="verse"> +<div class="stanza"> + <span class="i0">"This shall Inform Bassanio that I’m done Brown,</span><br /> + <span class="i0">My chance is up, my ship, alas! gone down.</span><br /> + <span class="i0">The vessel on her homeward way, sir,</span><br /> + <span class="i0">Laden with the rich products of the Fraser (river)—</span><br /> + <span class="i0">The famed sal-lals for making jams,</span><br /> + <span class="i0">Monster sturgeon, cranberries and clams—</span><br /> + <span class="i0">Bumped on the sands and so a wreck became;</span><br /> + <span class="i0">Captain, as usual, ‘not at all to blame.’</span><br /> + <span class="i0">The people here say just as they like,</span><br /> + <span class="i0">And lay the blame on ‘Titcombe’ or on ‘Pike.’</span><br /> + <span class="i0">For me, no sympathy I get; to them ’tis fun;</span><br /> + <span class="i0">Alas for me, I’m ‘Capitally’ done;</span><br /> + <span class="i0">Then those brick stores, which I fondly thought</span><br /> + <span class="i0">For bonded warehouses would soon be sought;</span><br /> + <span class="i0">Bring ‘Nary red,’ no revenue they raise;</span><br /> + <span class="i0">No ships arriving, no one duty pays;</span><br /><span class="pagenum">p.23</span> + <span class="i0">From Sorrow’s page I’ve learned all man can know,</span><br /> + <span class="i0">For ‘Cochrane’s’ just sold off my grand pi-an-o;</span><br /> + <span class="i0">So if with means to aid me you’re invested,</span><br /> + <span class="i0">Haste, for the Jews won’t rest till I’m arrested.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<p style="margin-left:12em">"Your loving friend,</p> + +<p style="margin-left:15em">"<i>Antonio.</i>"</p> + +<p>The evening of my first appearance in female character, I was dressed +at home, and escorted down town with a lady on each side of me, and I +can remember how hard it was for them to keep their countenance, for +several times I thought I was discovered ere we reached the theatre. +We all walked to and from the theatre in those days—there were not +half a dozen hacks in Victoria.</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img03"> +<img width="523" height="286" src="images/vi03.jpg" alt="[Illustration: Government St. with Theatre Royal.]" /> +</div> + +<p>The photo shows old "Theatre Royal" at the time of which I write, +viz., 1866 to 1868, and in which all the theatricals were produced in +these early days; although there was a sort of theatre used for +nigger minstrel performances and concert hall business. This was +situated under Goodacre’s butcher shop. The principal actor and negro +delineator was "Tom Lafont," whose equal I have not seen since as an +imitator of negro comicalities and as a bird whistler. He will be +well remembered by old-timers. The Theatre Royal was situated on +Government Street, one door from the corner of Bastion, as will be +seen in the picture. This corner was first occupied by Doctor Davie, +sr., then by a Doctor Dickson, when first I remember it. He died +about a year ago in Portland, Oregon, just after a visit to this +city. The theatre was, I think, composed of two of the big barns in +the fort, which being connected together, made one long building, +reaching to Langley Street. There was a saloon or <span class="pagenum">p.24</span> restaurant kept +by Sam Militich on the one side of the front entrance, and Newbury’s +saddlery shop on the other. The upper front of the theatre was used +as a photograph gallery, and was occupied, among others, by a Mr. +Gentile and J. Craig. A showcase of photos, in a small annex, which +was connected with the gallery above, may be seen with a magnifying +glass.</p> + +<p>Charles Keen and Mrs. Keen produced several of Shakespeare’s plays +here in 1864, and I went with my father to see "Macbeth." We had +seats in the pit, or orchestra chairs, as now known. Reserved tickets +were three dollars, and although this was thought to be a famine +price, the opportunity of hearing such celebrated people as the Keens +was not to be resisted, so the house was packed at each performance.</p> + +<p>Charles Wheatley, considered a fine comedian, produced the "Colleen +Bawn," or the "Brides of Garry Owen." The play made a lasting +impression on me, as the finest comedy I had ever seen. It may be +that Mr. Wheatley’s fine personation of Danny Mann, the leading part, +made me think so, but it was a fact nevertheless.</p> + +<p>Madame Anna Bishop, whom Mr. Higgins has told us about in one of his +interesting stories, delighted many audiences in "Old Theatre Royal."</p> + +<p>I can also remember the Reverend Morley Puncheon, who was a +celebrated Methodist preacher, and chairman of the home church in +England. He gave readings from celebrated authors. During one of +these readings, and while he was reciting from Macaulay’s "Lays of +Ancient Rome," the fire bell rang, and in less time than five minutes +there was hardly a man left of his audience. He was at first struck +dumb with surprise, then offended. That such an ordinary thing, as it +<span class="pagenum">p.25</span> seemed to him, should have stopped his lecture! But it was +explained to him how that fires were put out by the citizens +generally; that it was a matter of much moment to them; that it may +have been the home of any of them; also that many of the audience +were members of a fire company, and were liable to be fined for +non-attendance, although their services were given free. This +satisfied him, and he went on with the reading. Theatre Royal served +Victoria until the building of Theatre Victoria.</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img04"> +<img width="528" height="273" src="images/vi04.jpg" alt="[Illustration: Corner of Government and Yates streets.]" /> +</div> + +<p class="pagenum">p.26</p> + +<h3 id="rov03">CHAPTER III.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">MY BOYHOOD DAYS IN VICTORIA.</p> + +<div class="verse"> +<div class="stanza"> + <span class="i0">How dear to this heart are the scenes of my childhood,</span><br /> + <span class="i2">When fond recollection presents them to view!</span><br /> + <span class="i0">The orchard, the meadow, the deep-tangled wildwood,</span><br /> + <span class="i2">And every loved spot which my boyhood then knew.</span></div> +<div class="stanza"> + <span class="i4">Oh! give me back my boyhood days,</span><br /> + <span class="i6">The sportive days of childhood.</span><br /> + <span class="i4">The merry games with bat and ball,</span><br /> + <span class="i6">The rambles through the wildwood.</span></div> +</div> + +<p>As I stated in my experiences in San Francisco in the early fifties, +and in consequence of the loss of my father’s vessel near Alberni, we +came north to Victoria after gold was discovered in British Columbia. +We took passage in the steamer <i>Northerner</i>, which was filled +with passengers and freight, and came via Portland, arriving in +Esquimalt on the 11th day of February, 1859. I might state that all +the ocean steamers docked at Esquimalt then, and the passengers were +freighted round in a smaller steamer to the Hudson’s Bay wharf in our +harbor. The first thing that attracted our attention on coming into +the harbor was the high palisade of the fort, which ran along Wharf +Street from the corner of Bastion to Broughton Street, up thence +to Government Street, along Government to Bastion Street, to the +cigar store with the brass plate <span class="pagenum">p.27</span> on, now occupied by North and +Richardson. Opposite Fort Street there was an entrance, and another +on Wharf Street.</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img05"> +<img width="530" height="281" src="images/vi05.jpg" alt="[Illustration: Fort Street, extending through the fort.]" /> +</div> + +<p>In the centre of the large gates there were smaller ones. These small +gates were opened every morning at seven o’clock on the ringing of +the fort bell, which was suspended from a kind of belfry in the +centre of the yard. To the north were the stores and warehouses, and +to the south large barns; the residences were situated on the east +side of the fort.</p> + +<p>The stores were patronized by all the colonists, not then being +confined to the Company’s servants, as in former times. Fort Street +looked very different to what it does now. The roadbed was composed +of boulders, which, being round, made rough riding, and so muddy, +too! Try and imagine it. The sidewalk was of two-inch boards, laid +lengthwise, three boards wide, I think, and commenced at the Brown +Jug corner, running up for three or four blocks.</p> + +<p>Where the Brown Jug now stands was a large orchard and garden, +surrounded by a whitewashed fence, which ran along Government Street +to Broughton, taking in the whole block eastward. Many an apple have +I had from this orchard, and apples were apples in those days, +whatever they may be now.</p> + +<p>The Company’s bakery, where we got our bread, was across Fort Street, +on the site of the Five Sisters block, and was a log-built house, +whitewashed. I think part of the bakehouse was to be seen in late +years in the rear of a carpenter’s shop on Broad Street, also I think +the baker himself is still alive, and named James Stockham. He made +excellent bread and charged twenty-five cents a loaf, but such loaves +they were, being at least three times as large as modern loaves.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.28</p> + +<p>There was a good story told of the Hudson’s Bay Company, and the +price of flour and bread during the gold excitement, which reflected +great credit on the Chief Factor of the company. It was said that a +scheme was concocted to corner all the flour in the country (<i>à la</i> +trust) by some enterprising citizens across the border; and the +Company was approached by these gentlemen, who proposed to them to +buy their whole stock of flour for that purpose. To the credit of +the Company’s officials, they refused to do so, and sold at the usual +price, against the combination, and so broke it up.</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img06"> +<img width="542" height="453" src="images/vi06.jpg" alt="[Illustration: Sir James Douglas and Lady Douglas.]" /> +</div> + +<p>After we had got settled in our new home the question of sending me +to school was discussed, and easily settled, for it was Hobson’s +choice. The Colonial School, as it was called, was on the site of the +present Central School. It was the only one I can think of except +Angela College, and maybe a private school. There was a fee of five +dollars a year charged, payable quarterly in advance.</p> + +<p>After you left Blanchard Street, the way to the school was by a +pathway through the woods. The country around View and Fort Streets, +up to Cook, was very swampy, and covered mostly by willow and alder +trees. In fact there was a small swamp or lake on View Street, where +there was good duck shooting in winter. When I went to the Colonial +School in 1859, it was taught by a young man named Kennedy, whose +father was Dr. Kennedy, of the Hudson’s Bay Company, and whose +brother was in the same service. Some months later he resigned, and +his successor was an Irishman named W. H. Burr, whose temper was +quick, like my own, and although he tried to make me a good scholar, +I am afraid I did not do him or his teaching justice, and <span class="pagenum">p.29</span> I +remember two good beatings he gave me far better than the useful +knowledge he tried to inculcate.</p> + +<p>It was thus: Our school might aptly be termed a mixed one, for it +consisted of boys and girls who sat together. This arrangement just +suited me, for I was fond of the girls. There were white boys and +black boys, Hebrews and Gentiles, rich and poor, and we all sat close +together to economize room. One day a dispute arose between a white +boy and a black boy, and ended in a fistic encounter. I was mainly +instrumental in bringing it about, and backed my man until the sponge +was thrown up by the white boys’ friend. Mr. Burr heard of the +occurrence through the boys not reporting at the school the next +morning, and an investigation by the master revealed my part in the +affair. I was sentenced to be flogged for aiding and abetting. This +was announced in the morning, and to be carried out in the afternoon. +My friends collected around me after school closed and various advice +was given me as to how I should act under the trying circumstances. +After the consultation was over it was decided that I should put on a +pair of old gloves inside out, as it was supposed the cane would not +hurt as much that way, and it being dusk at four o’clock, when we +broke up in winter, the master might not see the difference in the +color of my hands. I was on hand at flogging time, against the advice +of some of my friends, who counselled me not to show up. Mr. Burr +laid on the cane on my hands, and at first I did not feel it much, +but after about half the whipping was given it got unbearable, and I +could not hold out any longer, so bolted, was stopped, knocked down, +and eventually I got under the seats and desks, and was followed by +the irate master and hit on any part that was exposed to view. Mr. +<span class="pagenum">p.30</span> Burr did not give up until he was tired out, and I was glad +to take advantage of this fact and get out, and off home, a much +wiser if not a better boy. I got little sympathy at home when I told +them that I had been whipped for causing a fight between a white boy +and a black boy named White.</p> + +<p>My next whipping was interrupted by the master’s wife, who frequently +interfered, and by her pleadings for the culprit and offering to go +bail for his future good behavior, got him off with lighter +punishment. I shall always think kindly of Mrs. Burr, for if ever +there was a good, kind-hearted woman it was she. Mr. Burr often went +to auctions, and before going, he appointed a monitor, who had charge +during his absence. One day during his absence all hands vacated our +desks and proceeded to the vegetable garden, which contained a good +assortment of all kinds, and as boys are known to be over-fond of raw +carrots and turnips, especially if stolen, we were soon at work +digging up our favorite vegetables. After peeling them with our +jackknives we might have been seen sitting on the fence and school +porch eating as only boys can eat. In the midst of our vegetarian +feast the lookout announced the distant approach of the master, and +then there was a scattering of the boys, as half-eaten carrots and +turnips were thrown away, and we regained our seats in school looking +as innocent as lambs. Then Mr. Burr appeared on the scene. Mrs. Burr +must have seen us, but was too good-hearted to tell her husband all +she knew.</p> + +<p>I have said the school was reached by a trail through the woods, and +very pretty the woods looked in summer. The school and grounds were +surrounded by spreading oaks, which covered that part of the city, or +country as it was then called, and it was under these trees we sat +<span class="pagenum">p.31</span> with the girls and ate our lunch, or rested in the shade after our +innings at ball. Wild flowers, that now are only found miles away, +were found there in profusion. We children always took our lunches, +it being considered too far to go home for the midday meal.</p> + +<p>Many will remember the old schoolhouse which was pulled down to make +way for the present Central School. It was built of square logs and +whitewashed, and was occupied by the master and his family. The +school proper occupied only about a third of the building, and was a +large room extending from the front to the back of the building. Of +the old boys and girls who survive those early school days I can +think of these: Judge Harrison; John Elford, of Elford & Smith; +Theophilus Elford, of Shawnigan Lake Lumber Company; Mr. Anderson, of +Saanich; the Tolmie and Finlayson boys; Edward Wall (late Erskine & +Wall); Ernest Leigh, son of the late city clerk, now of San +Francisco, and John and Fred Mecredy, also of San Francisco. Of the +girls there are Sarah Allatt, now Mrs. Jos. Wriglesworth; Sylvestra +Layzell, now Mrs. O. C. Hastings, and her sister Lucy, now also +married; and Sarah Pointer, now Mrs. Carter. I had nearly forgotten +Ned Buckley, who left here for the States and became an actor of some +note.</p> + +<p>Of those dead I can best remember David Work, of Hillside Farm, and +my chum, the late James Douglas, son of Sir James, then Governor. If +I remember right, he was unintentionally the cause of my second +whipping. He seemed much attached to me, and many were the rides we +had together in his trap, which brought him to school every morning. +He was a kindred spirit, wilful like myself, and had a habit of +suddenly getting up in school and announcing to the master that he +was <span class="pagenum">p.32</span> going home, or it might be for some long drive, usually to +Cadboro Bay. Mr. Burr would remonstrate with him, but generally gave +way, and off he went. As he and I got intimate he wanted me to go +with him on these expeditions, and often at the unseemly hours of two +or three o’clock, during school.</p> + +<p>One day he got up suddenly in his seat and said: "Mr. Burr, I am +going home and I want Fawcett to go with me; that will be all right, +won’t it?"</p> + +<p>"Now, Master James," said Mr. Burr, "I cannot allow this; I must +protest against this going away during school hours. If His +Excellency only knew, what would he say?"</p> + +<p>"Oh, that will be all right, Mr. Burr."</p> + +<p>"No, no, James, it is not all right, and as for Fawcett going with +you I cannot allow it, Master James; heed me or I must have a word +with Sir James about you."</p> + +<div class="imgright" id="img07"> +<img width="239" height="406" src="images/vi07.jpg" alt="[Portrait: William Leigh.]" /> +</div> + +<p>All this time James was standing up at his desk with his riding-whip +in his hand, and making signs for me to follow, which I proceeded to +do, the master protesting all the time. I got my reward next day, but +not as bad as I would have got had not good Mrs. Burr come to my +rescue. We drove to Upland Farm, then the home of City Clerk Leigh +and his family, at Cadboro Bay. Mrs. Leigh was always good to James +and I on these visits to the farm, getting us the best to eat and +plenty of fresh milk to drink. By some understanding between Sir +James and Mr. Burr we continued these afternoon drives, and it may be +imagined how we boys enjoyed them. We continued friends to the last, +and years after I worked like a beaver when he was elected a member +of the Legislature for Victoria City. He was godfather to my eldest +son, who was named after him. I have still <span class="pagenum">p.33</span> a handsome book given +me by Sir James at the last break-up of school before I left.</p> + +<p>We now and then hear complaints by prudish people of the boys bathing +on Victoria Arm, on Deadman’s Island and elsewhere without a full +bathing suit. What would they say to the boys of my time bathing in +Nature’s suit only, and that on the waterfront from James Bay bridge +all around to the Hudson’s Bay Company’s wharf? We bathed there at +all times, and to our heart’s content, and never was exception taken +to it by the authorities, or in fact by anyone. Use is second nature, +and I suppose that accounted for it.</p> + +<p>Have any of my readers ever seen Deadman’s Island (the island which +is opposite Leigh’s mill) when it was covered with trees and shrubs? +Well, up these trees were corpses of Indians fastened up in trunks +and cracker boxes, but mostly trunks, the bodies being doubled up to +make them fit in the trunk, and then suspended like Mahomet’s coffin +between heaven and earth. There were also some Indians buried in the +shallow soil and surrounded by fences, and again boxes of corpses +were piled one on top of the other. This island was a favorite place +of the school boys as a rendezvous for swimming, and many a summer’s +afternoon and Saturday have I spent there in the good old days gone +by.</p> + +<p>I shall now relate an incident of one of these expeditions to the +island by myself and three others. I can recollect the names of only +two members of the expedition of that Saturday, and I might say that +they were my schoolfellows of the Collegiate School, which occupied +the site of Mr. Ellis’s residence on Church Hill, and was afterwards +burnt down. I left the Colonial School in 1860, and transferred to +the Collegiate School, <span class="pagenum">p.34</span> which was conducted as a church institution. +Rev. C. T. Woods was principal, with Rev. Mr. Reese, "Cantab." +Williams, and Messrs. Vincent and Palmer, French and drawing and +music, as the full staff. Well, about the Deadman’s Island affair. +One Saturday afternoon in midsummer four of us—Robert Branks, a +brother of Mrs. Doctor Powell, William Galley, James Estall and a +fourth whose name I cannot now remember hired a boat at Lachapelle’s, +near James Bay Bridge, and made for Deadman’s Island. We enjoyed the +luxury of running about the island like the savages on Robinson +Crusoe’s island, then dived into deep water, swam around for a time +and landed to dry and warm ourselves at a fire we had made for that +purpose. All boys know that a fire is indispensable to swimming and +bathing.</p> + +<p>While squatting on the ground around the fire the idea struck me that +by the way the wind was blowing it would not need much encouragement +for the fire to take hold of some of the boxes of bones, which may +have represented an Indian chief, his wife or child. I then proposed +that we accidentally on purpose "set fire to the whole lot." After a +council of war it was finally decided to carry out my suggestion, as +a grand wind-up of our day’s outing. Time after time we dived off, +and swam around till tired, and then came ashore to dry ourselves at +the fire. This is the exact routine of boys’ swimming expeditions of +these present days, and will be to the end of all time. We got tired +of it at last and dressed, preparing to go home, when the subject of +the firing of the Indian corpses was again discussed. Should we do it +or not? Robert Branks was with me all right, but one boy was fearful +of the consequences. "The chief and all the Indians on the Songhees +reserve would <span class="pagenum">p.35</span> soon see the fire and would be after us." There was +something in this, for there were hundreds then, where there are now +dozens, and it was risky.</p> + +<p>After each had said his say, we put it to the vote, and it was +carried three to one that the fire take place. We set fire to a lot +of pieces of broken coffins at two separate places alongside a pile +of boxes or trunks of bones. Then we made all haste to get aboard our +craft, up sail and away. We had hardly reached the bridge and crossed +the harbor from the bottom of Johnson Street to the Indian reserve, +when the fire could be seen plainly as having been a success from our +point of view—so much so that we made greater haste to get to the +boathouse. We lost no time in settling up for the boat hire, and +making the best of our legs in getting home. The paper next morning +was early sought for, and with fear and trembling, too. There was +good reason for fear, for the paper gave an account of the affair. +The Indians had made complaint to the police, and they were searching +for the culprits. I was afraid to go out at all, much less to go to +school, and every knock at the door made me start. I at last +confessed to my parents my share in the business, and it was decided +that I must "lay low" for a few days, and lucky it was for me I did +not get what I deserved, a good whipping, as my mother said. The +quartette of boys kept their counsel, and we escaped a visit from the +police.</p> + +<p>Some time later we visited the island to see the result of the fire, +and found that all traces of the burying-ground had vanished, the +surface of the island being swept clean, with not a trace of boxes, +bones or trees, and it has remained so till this day.</p> + +<p>In the absence of Chinese market gardens, and the kitchen garden now +attached to most homesteads, we <span class="pagenum">p.36</span> had to go to a distance for our +vegetables. It took us the best part of a day to go to Hillside Farm +for a sack of assorted vegetables. Several boys would start together +for this trip into the country. It is astonishing how the absence +of streets or roads lengthens this distance, and so it was then. We +started after breakfast and took our lunch, going across country by +trail, each with a sack, which was filled by old Willie Pottinger, +the gardener, for a shilling. Very good and fresh they were, and very +cheap this was considered. With our loads we started for home, and +the further we got from Hillside the heavier the vegetables got, and +therefore the more stoppages we made to rest. At last Port and +Blanchard Streets were in sight, and we were home again, tired out +and hungry as hunters.</p> + +<p>The last I remember of the Hudson’s Bay fort was during the contest +brought on by the burning question of the day, namely Union and +Tariff vs. Free Port. The mainland represented Tariff and the island +Free Port. Should we join with the mainland with a tariff or remain +Free Port? The hustings was erected in the fort, and the pros and +cons were discussed by the rival candidates. I took part, although +too young to vote, and worked day and night for my friend Amor De +Cosmos, who was in favor of union and tariff, and we won the day, +too.</p> + +<p>Before I conclude I would again speak of the large stores in the +fort, which supplied the colonists with all they required except +meats. It was said at the time that you might get anything at the +stores, from a needle to an anchor. This might well have been true, +for it was the repository of all the Company’s goods for supplying +their servants with all their necessaries.</p> + +<p>One of the first visits I paid was with my mother, as <span class="pagenum">p.37</span> in San +Francisco, and amongst various articles I carried away was a pair of +Old Country boots. These boots I am not likely to forget, as I wore +them so long. The soles were twice the usual thickness of even boys’ +boots, and, like a horseshoe, had a row of nails with projecting +square heads a quarter inch thick. These boots left their mark +wherever they went, and, as may be supposed, as I was a strong, +healthy boy with a roving disposition, they travelled considerably. +Wear them out I could not, kicking rocks and stubbing my toes against +everything I came against, for I found them awkward and heavy to +carry, and in fact everything gave way before them. My poor mother +often called out at the marks of the square-headed nails on her +clean floors, which in those days were not covered with carpets or +linoleum, as now. These boots were a feature of the store, and were, +I think, $3.75 or $4 a pair—but enough of hobnailed boots.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.38</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov04">CHAPTER IV.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">VICTORIA’S FIRST DIRECTORY.</p> + +<p>In 1860 was issued the first directory of Victoria, Vancouver Island, +by Edward Mallandaine, an architect, who continued to issue a +Victoria directory at intervals for years afterwards. Through the +kindness of Mr. Mallandaine, who is a pioneer of 1858, I am enabled +to review this relic of early and interesting times, for those of us +who remember them as "the good old times." I shall here give some of +the author’s "Prefatory remarks":</p> + +<p>"It has been thought by the author of the following work that the +present being an age of advancement, the period has fully arrived +when our fair town of Victoria is of sufficient importance to deserve +that index of commercial progress, a Directory. We have been reliably +informed that about 35,000 immigrants from California and elsewhere +have arrived, and have produced a most marvellous state of transition +in the two countries [Vancouver Island and British Columbia.] A +number of wharves have been constructed this past season, a new +timber bridge across James Bay has been built, giving access to the +newly-erected Government offices for public lands and to Government +House, which are of an ornamental character. Streets leading to the +bridge have been graded and metalled over and are passable at all +times. A temporary want <span class="pagenum">p.39</span> of funds alone prevents more being done in +this way, as also the completion of two embankments (in lieu of +bridges) in a ravine <a id="emen2">[Johnson Street, I think, E. F.]</a>. Wooden +buildings have ceased to be the order of the day. We have been +fortunate in hitherto escaping with but one single disaster in the +shape of fire. Some public-spirited citizens taking the lead, a Hook +and Ladder Company has been organized, and subscriptions raised to +defray the necessary outlay of a building and a Hook and Ladder +Apparatus and an Engine. We have a large bookstore [Hibben & +Carswell’s]; two hotels of considerable dimensions, Royal and +Victoria, and several houses, all erected in brickwork. The Hudson’s +Bay Company are erecting a warehouse of pretentious dimension of +stone, which they import from a distance of not less than forty +miles, and a new bank, ‘Bank of British North America.’ Great demands +are made for a Public Hall for meetings, and the want of a Theatre +is felt. The last few months have seen an increase in our legal +defenders, and the arrival of an attorney-general for British +Columbia.</p> + +<p>"We have seen by an effort in the right direction a large tract of +land, 20,000 acres in the neighborhood of Victoria, put up for sale +by auction at the upset price of $1.00 per acre.</p> + +<p>"We have of churches one Episcopalian, one Roman Catholic, one +Methodist mission, one Congregational mission, one nunnery school, +Sisters of St. Ann’s, one private educational institute (by the +author) for both sexes, and one Young Ladies’ Seminary.</p> + +<p>"We have an hospital (Royal) started originally by Rev. Edward +Cridge, of Christ Church, and now sadly overburdened with debt.</p> + +<p>"A Masonic lodge is in course of formation; an Odd <span class="pagenum">p.40</span> Fellows’ +Association has been in existence for a year; a Ladies’ Benevolent +Society, under the presidency of Mrs. Col. Moody; a Hebrew Victoria +Benevolent Society has been in existence some six months; a +Philharmonic Society, under the conduct of John Bailey, is among one +of its oldest institutions, and to conclude we have in Victoria a +<i>free port</i>. This is an immense advantage, coupled with its commanding +situation for an eastern and Asiatic trade and its position, opposite +the North American and Pacific railway (which will shortly be an +undoubted fact). In conclusion, we have to place our work in its +present state in the hands of an indulgent public," E. M., etc.</p> + +<div class="imgright" id="img08"> +<img width="264" height="450" src="images/vi08.jpg" alt="[Portrait: Captain John Irving.]" /> +</div> + +<p>I now propose to review the names of the 1860 pioneer merchants, as +illustrated on the covers and through the directory, bringing their +names before the pioneers of those days again. This directory is +nothing more than a history of the city at that time, and to me is +most interesting reading. It is not to be supposed that newcomers of +twenty years’ residence will give it more than passing notice, but +they will excuse us old hands for being interested.</p> + +<p>On the front cover is a picture of the Royal Hotel on Wharf Street, +corner of Johnson, Jas Wilcox, proprietor, who also owned property on +Fort Street opposite Philharmonic Hall, Wilcox Alley running through +the property. The Royal Hotel with the Victoria were the first brick +hotels built here in 1858. It was on a vacant lot alongside the Royal +Hotel that the Rev. Alexander C. Garrett, about 1861 or 1862, used to +preach on Sunday afternoons to large crowds, mostly sailors and +miners, although all sorts and conditions of sinners were there. He +was a most eloquent Irishman, was a missionary to the Indians, and +lived on the Songhees reserve. The choir of Christ Church attended to +lead <span class="pagenum">p.41</span> the music, and as I was a choir boy, I was there, as also, +I think, Dr. Davie. The minister stood on a packing-box, and the +whole scene is vivid in my memory. The motley crowd, as may be +supposed, the music in the open air, and the eloquent speaker, all +combined to make the scene one to be remembered. Mr. Garrett left +here for the States, afterwards being made bishop of the Protestant +Episcopal Church of America.</p> + +<p>On the inside of the cover is a picture of Stationers’ Hall, Hibben & +Carswell, on the corner of Yates and Langley Streets. During +fifty-four years the business has gone on prospering. Although the +three principals of that day are gone to their rest, the business is +still carried on as Hibben & Co., under the able management of +William S. Bone, one of its partners. I might state that Mr. Bone +entered the business as a boy at the age of eighteen years, and +subsequently a partnership was formed, consisting of T. N. Hibben, C. +W. Kammerer and William H. Bone. R. T. Williams, in charge of the +Provincial Government Bindery, was also on the staff of this pioneer +firm in the early sixties.</p> + +<p>On the next page are two views, one of William Zelnor’s drug store, +on Government Street, between Yates and Johnson, east side. He +afterwards moved to the corner of Yates and Government, where the B. +C. Market now does business. The second is the store of Webster and +Co., Yates Street, the building now occupied by Bissinger and Co., +hide dealers. Mr. Jesse Cowper, who was a resident of Menzies Street, +James Bay, was a partner in the firm, and a cousin of the Websters, +and after many years’ connection with the concern retired to enjoy +the results of his success in this business. He has since died.</p> + +<p>Janion & Green, commission merchants, foot of Johnson Street, near +the bridge, come next. The firm <span class="pagenum">p.42</span> was afterwards Janion, Green & +Rhodes; the latter was the respected father of Mr. Rhodes, of the +firm of Brackman & Ker Milling Co., and was Hawaiian consul, having +previously been in business in Honolulu. The business house of A. +Hoffman, dry goods, north-west corner of Yates and Government, is +a frame building. Next are two well-known firms, viz., A. Gilmore, +merchant tailor, Yates Street, fourth door from Waddington Alley, and +K. Gambitz, Yates Street, next to Bank of British North America. He +was an American Hebrew, and sold out to Thomas and William Wilson, +who for many years conducted the business on Government Street as the +"City House."</p> + +<p>James Bell, general hardware, Johnson Street; Robertson, Stewart & +Co., commission merchants, Yates Street; and Bayley’s Hotel, which +was on the site of the Pritchard House, now turned into a bank; +Sporburg & Co., importers of provisions and dry goods, Wharf Street, +foot of Yates; Thos. Patrick & Co., corner Johnson and Government +Streets, wholesale liquors; Pierce & Seymour, corner Yates and +Douglas Streets, furniture dealers. Mr. Seymour was one of the +charter members of the Pioneer Society, which society he took a great +interest in. He was a firm believer in the cold water cure, and took +cold water baths for all ailments. One morning, his furniture store +(which then occupied the site of the Colonist Building) not opening +up at the usual hour, the door was broken open, and Mr. Seymour was +found dead in his cold bath. He was a good-hearted man, and a good +friend to many. Lester & Gibbs, the colored grocers, Yates Street, +between Wharf and Government Streets; Adolph Sutro & Co., wholesale +cigars and tobacco, corner Wharf and Yates Streets; A. Blackman, +stoves and tinware, Yates <span class="pagenum">p.43</span> Street, near Wharf; N. Munroe & Co., +Yates Street, opposite Stationers’ Hall, dry goods and clothing; +Pioneer Mineral Water Works, Humboldt Street, south side; Phillips +& Co.; E. Mallandaine, architect, Broad Street, near Yates; +Macdonald & Co., bankers, Yates Street. Of this bank I have a lively +recollection, as its career came to an end suddenly by the discovery +being made one morning that the bank had been robbed, and exit made +through the roof. I have $36 of their notes to remember it by. +W. F. Herre, News Depot, Yates Street, between Wharf and Government +Streets; W. H. Oliver, Johnson Street, opposite Wharf Street, +wholesale dealer in liquors (situated over the ravine); C. J. Pidwell +& Co., furniture dealers, Yates Street; Wells, Fargo & Co., Express +and Exchange Co.; C. C. Pendergast, accountant, Yates Street, between +Wharf and Government Streets; G. Huston, gunsmith, Yates Street, +below Wells, Fargo & Co.; Langley Bros., wholesale and retail +druggists, Yates Street; J. D. Carroll, wines and liquors, wholesale, +Yates Street; Reid & Macdonald, commission merchants, Wharf Street; +Wm. Burlington Smith, groceries, Government Street, near Yates; +Selim, Franklin & Co., auctioneers and land agents, Yates Street. I +think all these names will be familiar to some of the early pioneers, +as they are to me.</p> + +<h4 class="sc">Public Departments of Vancouver Island for 1860.</h4> + +<p>Governor—James Douglas, C.B.</p> + +<p>Legislative Council—His Excellency the Governor, Hon. John Work, +Hon. Roderick Finlayson, Hon. David Cameron, judge; Hon. Donald +Fraser, clerk; Rev. Edward Cridge.</p> + +<p>House of Assembly—Members for Esquimalt—J. S. Helmcken, M.D., +Speaker; Capt. Cooper, harbor master, <span class="pagenum">p.44</span> and Capt. J. Gordon. Members +for Victoria District—W. F. Tolmie, M.D.; A. D. Waddington, H. P. P. +Crease, barrister; G. H. Carey, Attorney-General, B.C., and +Selim Franklin. Saanich—C. Coles. Nanaimo—A. R. Green. Lake +District—Major Foster. Salt Spring—J. J. Southgate. Metchosin—J. +McDonald.</p> + +<p>Ecclesiastical—Right Rev. George Hills, Bishop of British Columbia; +Rev. Edward Cridge, Victoria; Rev. R. Dundas, Esquimalt; Rev. R. +Dawson, Craigflower.</p> + +<p>Judicial—Hon. David Cameron, Judge Supreme Court; Attorney-General, +Geo. H. Carey; Sheriff, G. W. Heaton.</p> + +<p>Colonial Secretary’s Office—W. A. G. Young, R. N., colonial +secretary; clerks, Philip Nind, Joseph Porter.</p> + +<p>Treasury—Capt. W. D. Gossett, R.E., treasurer.</p> + +<p>Lands and Works—J. D. Pemberton, colonial surveyor; surveyors and +draughtsmen, B. W. Pearse, H. O. Tedieman.</p> + +<p>Police—A. F. Pemberton, J. P., commissioner police; superintendent, +Jno. Bayley, four sergeants and twelve constables.</p> + +<p>Postmaster, Victoria, J. D. Ewes; clerk, J. Morrison.</p> + +<p>Harbor Master—J. Nagle, J.P.</p> + +<p>Postage—To Australia, via England, 48c.; to France, 50c. To Great +Britain, 34c.; Germany, 40c.</p> + +<p>It will be seen that the postage was high and letters a great luxury, +and I have only mentioned the four principal countries we have an +interest in; also I would call attention to the number of police +constables required in those early days, there being a total of +seventeen.</p> + +<p>I have thought it might be interesting to the few remaining pioneers +of 1862 to revive an interest in events of fifty years ago. I often +wonder whether our old <span class="pagenum">p.45</span> pioneers think of the days that are gone +like I do, recall events and persons, take notice of the removal of +old landmarks, such as the James Bay bridge and Sceeley’s "Australian +House," at the north end of it, not forgetting the old pioneers who +have passed away recently, among whom were Simeon Duck, Jacob Sehl, +Thomas Storey, Wm. P. Sayward, Capt. Lewis, Isadore Braverman, Edward +Mallandaine and Jeremiah Griffiths. There is a certain amount of +pleasure in these reminiscences, melancholy though it may be to those +concerned. I shall now quote from the editor’s preface of the +directory of 1863 on the progress of the city:</p> + +<p>"At no time since the excitement attending its first settlement in +1858 has Victoria made greater strides, or her prosperity so +materially increased, as during the past year. Since the commencement +of last year her population has at least doubled, and the increase of +buildings and improvements has been almost in proportion. During the +winter season the town is thronged with strangers from British +Columbia and elsewhere, who migrate in the spring. Apart from that +the number of the inhabitants may be set down at 6,000. Victoria +contains about 1,500 buildings, some of them very creditable to the +size of the city, among them the Government offices and the jail. +There are several commodious brick hotels, the principal being the +St. Nicholas, the St. George and the Royal. The city is adorned with +five churches, two belonging to the Church of England, one Roman +Catholic, one Wesleyan and one Congregational. A Jewish synagogue and +a Presbyterian church (Pandora Street) are in course of construction. +There are also a theatre (Theatre Royal, Government Street) and a +hospital, the latter being supported by voluntary contributions.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.46</p> + +<p>"The sittings of the Legislature and law courts of Vancouver Island +are held in the city. There are two joint stock banks (British North +America and British Columbia), and three private banking houses. +Until lately Victoria was without a corporation; during the past year +(1862) an act to incorporate the town was passed by the Legislature. +The authorities consisted of a mayor and six councillors. Effective +and speedy measures will now be adopted to complete the grading of +the streets and laying down sidewalks. The water frontage of the town +has since the removal of the old bridge (from foot of Johnson Street +to Indian reserve) been greatly extended, and several wharves are now +available for shipping above the point where that obstacle to +navigation existed. A company has been formed to build a railway +connecting Victoria with the capacious harbor of Esquimalt. Among +other institutions the town may now boast of its gas works. A company +has also been organized to supply the town with water from Elk Lake, +eight miles distant. The value of real estate in the city has +increased in many places over 75 per cent. during the last nine +months. The city is a ‘free port,’ and therefore not troubled with +custom duties. Vessels drawing fifteen feet of water may cross the +bar of the harbor at high water, and a sum of £10,000 has been +voted by the Legislature to the improvement of the harbor. Steam +communication is carried on three times a month between Victoria and +San Francisco, every alternate trip being made via Portland. A +surprising impetus has been given to agriculture by the number of +newly-arrived immigrants, who have settled in the most fertile +districts around Victoria.</p> + +<p>"With land at four shillings an acre, and time allowed for payments, +together with the improved state <span class="pagenum">p.47</span> of communication between +Victoria and the back settlements, we may hope that the inhabitants +of the town will not in future be so dependent on neighboring +countries for their supplies of produce."</p> + +<h4 class="sc">Official List for Vancouver Island.</h4> +<ul> +<li>James Douglas, C.B., Governor.</li> + +<li>W. A. G. Young, Colonial Secretary.</li> + +<li>Joseph Porter, Chief Clerk.</li> + +<li>George H. Carey, Attorney-General.</li> + +<li>A. Hensley, Clerk.</li> + +<li>Alex. Watson, Treasurer.</li> + +<li>Jos. Despard Pemberton, Surveyor-General.</li> + +<li>W. B. Pearse, Assistant.</li> + +<li>Robert Ker, Auditor (father of D. R. Ker).</li> + +<li>Thos. E. Holmes, Clerk.</li> + +<li>Edward G. Alston, Registrar-General of Deeds.</li> + +<li>Charles G. Wylly, Assessor (still with us).</li> + +<li>Henry Wootton, Postmaster (father of Stephen and E. E. Wootton).</li> + +<li>J. M. Sparrow, Clerk (still with us).</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="sc">The Legislature.</h4> +<ul> +<li>Hon. Rodk. Finlayson, Hon. Donald Fraser, Hon. David Cameron, Hon. +Alfred J. Langley, Edw. G. Alston and Hon. Alex Watson, nominative.</li> + +<li>J. S. Helmcken, G. H. Carey and Selim Franklin, Victoria City.</li> + +<li>Wm. Cocker, Esquimalt.</li> + +<li>W. F. Tolmie, M.D., J. W. Trutch, and Jas. Trimble, M.D., Victoria District.</li> + +<li>Geo. F. Foster and W. J. Macdonald, Lake District.</li> + +<li>J. J. Southgate, Salt Spring Island. <span class="pagenum">p.48</span></li> + +<li>D. B. Ring, Nanaimo.</li> + +<li>John Coles, Saanich.</li> + +<li>Robert Burnaby, Esquimalt.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="sc">Victoria Fire Department.</h4> +<ul> +<li>John Dickson, Chief Engineer.</li> + +<li>John Malovanski, Assistant Engineer.</li> + +<li>Chas. Gowen, President Board Delegates.</li> + +<li>Jas. S. Drummond, Secretary Board Delegates.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="sc">ORGANIZATION OF COMPANIES.</h4> +<ul> +<li>Union Hook and Ladder, November 22nd, 1859, D. A. Edgar, Foreman.</li> + +<li>Deluge Engine, No. 1, March 5th, 1860. Jas. S. Drummond, Foreman.</li> + +<li>Tiger Engine No. 2, March 23rd, 1860. Samuel L. Kelly, Foreman.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Note.—Of these pioneer firemen of Victoria of this date, Sam Kelly +is (1910) the only surviving member of the executive.</p> + +<h4 class="sc">H. M. S. Ships of the Pacific Station.</h4> + +<p>Rear-Admiral, Sir Thomas Maitland.</p> + +<p><i>Bacchante</i>, 51 guns; <i>Chameleon</i>, 17 guns; +<i>Charybdis</i>, 17 guns; <i>Clio</i>, 22 guns; <i>Devastation</i>, +6 guns; <i>Forward</i>, 3 guns; <i>Grappler</i>, 3 guns; +<i>Hecate</i>, 6 guns; <i>Mutine</i>, 16 guns; <i>Naiad</i>, 6 guns; +<i>Nereus</i>, 6 guns; <i>Tartar</i>, 20 guns; <i>Termagant</i>, 25 +guns; <i>Topaz</i>, 51 guns; <i>Tribune</i>, 23 guns; <i>Sutlej</i>, +51 guns.</p> + +<p>Note.—One-third of these were on southern station. —Ex.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.49</p> + +<h4 class="sc">Consuls at Victoria.</h4> +<ul> +<li>France, P. Mene, Esq.</li> + +<li>United States, Allen Frances, Esq.</li> + +<li>Sandwich Islands, Henry Rhodes, Esq. (father of Chas. Rhodes).</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="sc">Municipal.</h4> +<ul> +<li>Thomas Harris, first mayor of Victoria.</li> + +<li>John Copeland, James M. Reid, Richard Lewis, William M. Searby, +Michael Stronach and Nathaniel M. Hicks, first councillors of +Victoria.</li> + +<li>Algernon Austen, Town Clerk. J. C. Colquhoun, City Inspector.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="sc">Educational.</h4> +<ul> +<li>Henry Claypole, Master at Craigflower.</li> + +<li>William H. Burr (my old master), Master at Victoria.</li> + +<li>Cornelius Bryant, Master at Nanaimo. Salary £150 and fees.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="sc">Police Department.</h4> +<ul> +<li>A. F. Pemberton, Commissioner.</li> + +<li>Horace Smith, Superintendent.</li> + +<li>Preston Bennett, Storekeeper and Clerk.</li> + +<li>George Blake, Sergeant Police, with eleven constables, including +Francis Page.</li> + +<li>Steph. Redgrave, Cook and Steward.</li> + +<li>George Newcombe, Jailer.</li> + +<li>D. B. Reid, Assistant Jailer.</li> + +<li>Edward Truran, Superintendent of Convicts.</li> +</ul> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img09"> +<img width="525" height="417" src="images/vi09.jpg" alt="[Illustration: Group of early legislators.]" /> +</div> + +<p class="pagenum">p.50</p> + +<p>It was customary for the "chain gang" to emerge every morning from a +side gate of the jail yard on Bastion Street and march to Government +Street to the music of their chains, with two guards in the rear with +loaded shotguns. The gang often contained seamen from the ships at +Esquimalt who were serving sentences, usually for desertion. This in +course of time caused such indignation that the practice of putting +men-of-warsmen in the chain gang was discontinued. The gang worked on +the streets, on the Government ground and at other Government work. +The uniform consisted of moleskin trousers with V.P., a checked +cotton shirt and a blue cloth cap. It was thought a wrong to put a +Jack Tar with malefactors of all grades, such as Indian murderers, +thieves and whiskey sellers to Indians. It was the custom when a fire +of any dimensions took place to telephone or send word to Esquimalt, +and squads of Jacks were soon on the way to town, running all the +way. After working maybe all night in saving property they would walk +back to their ship, tired out and wet through, and all for nothing in +the way of recompense. All the time they were at work they sang and +joked as they do now. Is it any wonder that we have a soft place in +our hearts for Jack? I know I shall not forget them and the days that +have gone by, and I think we all shall regret the late change that +takes him away, and his merry laugh and joke are things of the past.</p> + +<p>To return to the directory. Of those remaining whose names are +recorded, there are, alas! only sixty-two to-day with us. I have been +carefully over the list from A to Z and sixty-two is the number. Of +course there may be others that I did not know, and doubtless there +are some; there are omissions also, I am sure, and <span class="pagenum">p.51</span> several I have +added to make up the sixty-two. There is one thing sure, that as a +rule only the head of a family was recorded, male or female, as there +are many residents to-day who were young men or youths, or young +women or girls, when this directory was compiled. I shall give here +the names of these sixty-two who are still privileged to be residents +of this beautiful city that we old residents are so proud of, as well +as those of two living abroad and one in Kamloops.</p> + +<p>The list alphabetically is:</p> + +<ul> + <li>Adams, Daniel F., contractor.</li> + <li>Anderson, E. H., variety store.</li> + <li>Alport, Charles (in South Africa).</li> + <li>Anderson, J. R., agricultural department.</li> + <li>Barnett, Josiah, in United States.</li> + <li>Barnswell, James, carpenter.</li> + <li>Bauman, Frederick, confectioner.</li> + <li>Beaven, Hon. Robert.</li> + <li>Botterell, Mat., butcher.</li> + <li>Blaguiere, Edward.</li> + <li>Bullen, Jonathan, bricklayer.</li> + <li>Boscowitz, Joseph, fur dealer.</li> + <li>Borde, August, Chatham Street.</li> + <li>Burnes, Thomas, saloonkeeper.</li> + <li>Carey, Joseph W.</li> + <li>Cridge, Edward, rector Christ Church.</li> + <li>Crowther, John C., painter.</li> + <li>Davie, Doctor John C.</li> + <li>Dougall, John, iron moulder.</li> + <li>Drake, M. W. T., solicitor.</li> + <li>Elliott, W. A., engineer <i>Labouchere</i>.</li> + <li>Fawcett, R. W., house decorator.</li> + <li>Gerow, G. C., carriagemaker.</li> + <li>Helmcken, Honorable John S., M.P.P. <span class="pagenum">p.52</span></li> + <li>Geiger, Thomali, barber.</li> + <li>Gilmore, Alexander, clothier.</li> + <li>Glide, Harry, with Plaskett & Co.</li> + <li>Harvey, Rout., commission merchant.</li> + <li>Higgins, David W., publisher <i>Chronicle</i>.</li> + <li>Kelly, Samuel, tinsmith.</li> + <li>Kent, Charles, hardware, K. & F.</li> + <li>King, J. H., Mousquetaire saloon.</li> + <li>Kinsman, John, contractor.</li> + <li>Levy, H. E., special officer.</li> + <li>Levy, Joseph, fruit store.</li> + <li>Lissett, James, painter.</li> + <li>Macdonald, W. J., Reid & Macdonald.</li> + <li>Maynard, Richard, bootmaker.</li> + <li>Marvin, Edward B., sailmaker.</li> + <li>McMillan, J. E., publisher <i>Chronicle</i>.</li> + <li>Monro, Alexander, accountant Hudson’s Bay Company.</li> + <li>Nuttall, Thomas C., book-keeper.</li> + <li>Pearson, Edward, tinsmith.</li> + <li>Porter, Arthur, brickmaker.</li> + <li>Powell, Doctor I. W.</li> + <li>Richardson, George, proprietor of first brick hotel.</li> + <li>Roper, S., Kamloops.</li> + <li>Styles, S. T., plasterer.</li> + <li>Shotbolt, Thomas, druggist.</li> + <li>Stockham, F., baker.</li> + <li>Sparrow, J. M., post office.</li> + <li>Stewart, John, plumber.</li> + <li>Sylvester, Frank.</li> + <li>Turner, John H. (Todd & Turner), Victoria Produce Market.</li> + <li>Vowell, Arthur, Indian superintendent.</li> + <li>White, Edward (late Brown & White). <span class="pagenum">p.53</span></li> + <li>Wilson, Alexander, messenger, Bank British North America.</li> + <li>Wilson, William, draper.</li> + <li>Wilson, Thomas Sidney, cabinetmaker.</li> + <li>Wriglesworth, Joseph, London Hotel.</li> + <li>Wylly, C. G., accountant.</li> + <li>Welch, George, Esquimalt Waterworks.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Many of these since died.</p> + +<p>List of those deceased, but whose descendants are residents here now, +or living elsewhere:</p> + +<ul> + <li>Barron, David F., cabinetmaker, widow, son and two daughters.</li> + <li>Belasco, Abraham, tobacconist, two sons.</li> + <li>Broderick, R., coal dealer, widow and two sons.</li> + <li>Cameron, Thomas, blacksmith, two daughters and sons.</li> + <li>Chadwick, Thomas, hotelkeeper, two sons and daughter.</li> + <li>Courtney, H. E., solicitor, sons.</li> + <li>Cotsford, Thomas, sons.</li> + <li>Davies, J. P., auctioneer, several sons.</li> + <li>Doan, J. H., captain, daughter.</li> + <li>Duck, Simeon, carriagemaker, sons.</li> + <li>Ella, Captain H. B., Hudson’s Bay Company, all family, two sons and + two daughters living in Victoria.</li> + <li>Flett, John, Hudson’s Bay Company, several sons.</li> + <li>Gowen, Charles, brewer, widow, several sons and daughters.</li> + <li>Hall, Richard, agent, two sons—Richard and John.</li> + <li>Hall, Philip, several sons.</li> + <li>Harris, Thomas, mayor, two daughters.</li> + <li>Heal, John, boarding-house, two sons.</li> + <li>Heathorn, William, bootmaker, three sons and three daughters. <span class="pagenum">p.54</span></li> + <li>Heisterman, H., Exchange reading room, sons and daughters.</li> + <li>Heywood, Joseph, butcher, wife and daughter.</li> + <li>Hibben, Thomas Napier, widow, two sons and two daughters.</li> + <li>Huston, Guy, gunsmith, two daughters.</li> + <li>Irving, William, captain steamer <i>Reliance</i>, son and daughters.</li> + <li>Jackson, Doctor William, three sons and daughters.</li> + <li>Jungerman, J. L., watchmaker, daughter (Mrs. Erb).</li> + <li>Jewell, Henry, sons.</li> + <li>Leigh, William, second Town Clerk of Victoria, who held the position + from about 1863, to the time of his death. He was in charge of + Uplands Farm (1859) for the Hudson’s Bay Company, and under the + supervision of Mr. J. D. Pemberton, built Victoria District Church, + and as an amateur musician helped at charitable entertainments. Son + in San Francisco, granddaughter in Victoria (Mrs. Simpson).</li> + <li>Leneven, David, merchant, son and daughters.</li> + <li>Lewis, Lewis, clothier, son and daughter.</li> + <li>Lindsay, Daniel, son and daughter.</li> + <li>Loat, Christopher, sons and daughter.</li> + <li>Lowen, Joseph, brewer, widow, sons and daughters.</li> + <li>Lowenberg, L., estate agent, a nephew.</li> + <li>McDonell, R. J., captain, a widow.</li> + <li>Mason, George, brickmaker, a widow.</li> + <li>McKeon, William, hotel, wife, son and daughter.</li> + <li>McLean, Alexander, son.</li> + <li>McQuade, Peter, ship chandler, son and two daughters.</li> + <li>Meldram, John H., two sons.</li> + <li>Moore, M. (Curtis & Moore), widow and two sons. <span class="pagenum">p.55</span></li> + <li>Mouat, William, captain <i>Enterprise</i>, sons and daughters.</li> + <li>Nesbitt, Samuel, biscuit-baker, two sons.</li> + <li>Nicholles, Doctor John, one son.</li> + <li>Pitts, John H., son and daughters.</li> + <li>Rhodes, Henry, merchant, sons and daughters.</li> + <li>Sayward, William, sons.</li> + <li>Sehl, Jacob, sons and daughters.</li> + <li>Short, Henry, sons and daughters.</li> + <li>Smith, John, carpenter, Mears Street, sons and daughters.</li> + <li>Smith, M. R., baker, sons and daughters.</li> + <li>Stahlschmidt, Thomas L., son.</li> + <li>Stemmler, Louis, upholsterer, son (spice mills).</li> + <li>Thain, Captain John, son and daughter.</li> + <li>Todd, J. H., sons and daughters.</li> + <li>Tolmie, Doctor W. F., sons and daughters.</li> + <li>Waitt, M. W., stationer, widow and two daughters.</li> + <li>Williams, John W., livery stable, widow and daughters.</li> + <li>Woods, Richard, Government clerk, sons and daughters.</li> + <li>Wootton, Henry, postmaster, sons and daughters.</li> + <li>Workman, Aaron, daughters.</li> + <li>Yates, James Stewart, two sons.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Many deaths since this list was made.</p> + +<p>I must again repeat that this list of sixty-two may be augmented by +others who were heads of families even at that time. I might take our +own family for an example, although it does not prove the rule. It +consisted of my father, mother and three brothers, and is represented +in the directory by my father, Thomas L. Fawcett, and my eldest +brother, Rowland W. Then, <span class="pagenum">p.56</span> again, there is the Elford family, of +father, mother, three sons and two daughters. This family is not +recorded, and to-day there are two sons, John and Theophilus, and two +married sisters.</p> + +<p>Among the names in the list of those living now, but not recorded, is +a son of Abraham Belasco, tobacconist of Yates Street in 1862, by +name David. Those interested in theatricals (and who is not?) will +recognize the name as the prominent theatrical manager of New York. I +little thought when going to school with him at the Collegiate +School, under Rev. C. T. Woods, that he would be so well known a +character as he is to-day. In closing this reminiscence I would ask +to be pardoned for any errors or omissions, for my memory will bear +refreshing. I also must thank my old friend Dick Hall, and others, +for names of early pioneers who have been left out of the directory.</p> + +<p>Before closing this imperfect sketch allow me to offer a suggestion +to the mayor and aldermen. It is that a portrait of Thomas Harris, +the first mayor of the city, should be procured and hung in a +prominent place in the council chamber, and this at the public +expense. I think this would at least meet with the approval of the +pioneers of 1862, when Mr. Harris was elected first mayor.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.57</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov05">CHAPTER V.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">SOME RECOLLECTIONS OF VICTORIA BY ONE WHO WAS THERE IN THE SIXTIES.</p> + +<p>On Wharf Street, from the corner of Fort, looking north to the corner +of Yates, the buildings looked pretty much the same as now, being all +built of brick, with the exception of the wooden one to the south of +Sutro’s wholesale tobacco warehouse on the corner of Yates and Wharf. +This wooden building was a saloon, kept by one who formerly had been +a prominent man politically, that is prior to 1859. I think this +building can be identified with the Ship Inn. The two-story brick +block to the south, erected and owned by Senator Macdonald, was +occupied by John Wilkie, one of the earliest of our wholesale +merchants. The next corner was Edgar Marvin’s hardware store. Mr. +Marvin and his son Eddie, who came from the States in 1864, will be +well and favorably remembered by old-timers. He resided on Marvin’s +Hill, at the back of St. Ann’s Convent. Next comes the building +occupied by Henry Nathan, who was afterwards one of the early members +in the Commons to represent Victoria City. He was an English Hebrew, +and he and his father were prominent men and large property-holders +in the city, and I have no doubt are so still. He is standing in the +front of his office in the photo. I can well remember the day that +Henry Nathan and the balance of the Victoria contingent left for +Ottawa for the first time. <span class="pagenum">p.58</span> They left on the steamer <i>Prince Alfred</i> +from Broderick’s Wharf, in the inner harbor, and there was hardly a +square foot of room on the wharf to spare, the crowd was so great. In +fact, half of the town went to see them off, many locking up their +business places to do so. In the front of the next store may be seen +Thomas Lett Stahlschmidt, who represented the English wholesale +firm of Henderson & Burnaby. Next to Mr. Stahlschmidt is James D. +Robinson, who was bookkeeper for J. Robertson Stewart & Co., and who +is a resident of this city to-day, just died. Skipping the next two +buildings, we come to the auction rooms of a well-remembered business +man, P. M. Backus, one of the two prominent auctioneers of that time; +the other being James A. McCrea, spoken of by my friend, Mr. Higgins, +in one of his intensely interesting stories of early days in +Victoria. Both he and Mr. Backus were Americans, as were so many of +our business men of that day. Next Mr. Backus is Mr. J. R. Stewart, +just mentioned, and on the corner is Mr. Joseph Boscowitz. They +stand in front of the building occupied by Thomas C. Nuttall & Co. +Mr. Nuttall I remember as the agent of the Phoenix Fire Insurance +Company, and he did a large business in the city. Mr. Nuttall is +still a resident, although confined to the house through illness. +His was a familiar face on the street in those days, being a very +energetic business man. (Since died).</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img10"> +<img width="625" height="329" src="images/vi10.jpg" alt="[Illustration: Wharf St., Northward.]" /> +</div> + +<p>Upstairs in the building was the Oddfellows’ Hall, where I was +initiated into the mysteries of Oddfellow-ship in 1868. Among the +prominent brothers present that evening were John Weiler, James S. +Drummond, James D. Robinson, Hinton Guild, James Gillon (manager Bank +of British North America), Joshua Davies, Judah P. Davies, Richard +Roberts, Joseph York, and <span class="pagenum">p.59</span> Thomas Golden. All these prominent +Oddfellows, with the exception of James D. Robinson and Joseph York, +have gone to their rest. The waterfront side of Wharf Street, from +the Hudson’s Bay Company’s store south, is a blank until you reach +the old cooperage, next to the late custom house. There is an +historic oak tree alongside the cooperage, which is said to have been +used to tie up the Hudson’s Bay Company’s vessels in the earliest +times when wharves were few and far between. Beyond the old customs +house was Sayward’s wharf and lumber yard, the lumber being brought +by schooner and scow from the mill to Victoria. The business had not +then attained the proportions that it has to-day under Joseph +Sayward, son of the founder of the business, who now lives in San +Francisco.</p> + +<p>The next view represents Government Street, east side, from the Brown +Jug north to the St. Nicholas Building. The first building south from +there of any prominence was that now occupied by the British Columbia +Market, and then known as the Alhambra Building. The upper floor was +used as a public hall, and many grand balls were given here, as well +as other social events. The lower floor was used as Zelner’s +pharmacy, and next door by Gilmore, the clothier. Alongside and using +the upper portion of Gilmore’s Building also, is the Colonial Hotel, +one of the swell places of that day. I next recognize the store of +the well-known firm of W. & J. Wilson, clothiers and outfitters, +which was then conducted by the father and uncle of the present +proprietor, Mr. Joseph Wilson. With the exception of the Hudson’s Bay +Company, Hibben & Co. (then Hibben & Carswell) and Thomas Wilson, the +draper, the firm of W. & J. Wilson is, so far as I can remember, the +longest established in Victoria. <span class="pagenum">p.60</span> I can remember being fitted +out there on occasions as a school-boy. Their advertisement in the +<i>Colonist</i>, with their autograph underneath, occupied part of the +front page of the paper continuously for years.</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img11"> +<img width="530" height="280" src="images/vi11.jpg" alt="[Illustration: Government St., Northward.]" /> +</div> + +<p>The two-story wooden building in the middle of the block, between +Trounce Alley and Fort Street, is the Hotel de France, kept by P. +Manciet, and one of the two principal hotels of that day. Next was +McNiff’s grotto, Mon’s Laundry, The Star and Garter, Thomas Wilson & +Co., drapers, and farther on the two-story brick building, now Hibben +& Co., and farther on south J. H. Turner & Co. Of course all will +recognize the name as that of the Hon. J. H. Turner. The firm +occupied the whole of the building up and downstairs, as drapers and +carpet warehousemen, and I might state that the late Henry Brown, +Walter Shears, late custom appraiser, and Edward White were on the +staff. Next is one of the two meat markets, owned by Thomas Harris, +the first mayor of Victoria. His prominent figure may be seen on the +sidewalk looking across the street. With my mind’s eye I can see him +at the Queen’s Birthday celebration on Beacon Hill. The chief event +of the year was the racing on that day, and the mayor was an +enthusiastic horse fancier, and a steward of the Jockey Club. These +celebrations were nothing without Mr. Harris. The bell rings (John +Butts was bellman) and the portly figure of Mr. Harris on horseback +appears. "Now, gentlemen, clear the course," and then there is a +general scattering of people outside the rails; the horses with their +gaily dressed jockeys canter past the grandstand, make several false +starts, and off they go for the mile heat around the hill and back to +the grandstand. Oh, what exciting things those races <span class="pagenum">p.61</span> were! Another +prominent figure at these race meetings was John Howard, of +Esquimalt. The race meetings without Messrs. Harris and Howard would +not have been the genuine thing, and, I must not forget to mention +Millington, who always rode Mr. Harris’ horses at these meetings. I +believe he is still in the land of the living. I would we had such +Queen’s weather as we had then. May was equal to July now for warmth, +and with beautiful clear skies, they were days worth remembering. +Everyone went out for the day and the hill was covered with +picnickers. The navy was represented by bluejackets and marines by +the hundreds, bands of music, Aunt Sally and the usual other side +shows. And lastly, I must not forget the music. The flagships of +those days were large three-deckers, line-of-battleships, such as the +<i>Ganges</i> or <i>Sutlej</i>, which would make an ordinary flagship +look small. It was understood that the officers, being wealthy men, +subscribed liberally towards a fine band. It was a great treat to +hear the <i>Ganges’</i> full band, as I have heard it in the streets +of Victoria preceding a naval funeral to Quadra Street Cemetery, and +very few I missed. But I have digressed and will proceed to finish +Government Street. The corner building, now torn down to make way for +the Five Sisters’ Block, was occupied by William Searby, chemist, who +was my Sunday School teacher. He left Victoria for San Francisco, +and I had the pleasure of renewing his acquaintance years later, +and, I think, he is still in business in Market Street. In the +front of Searby’s stands John Weiler, father of the Weiler brothers +of our day. The upper portion of this building was called the +Literary Institute, and the first I remember of Mr. Redfern was +at an entertainment given here for some charity, when he sang that +beautiful <span class="pagenum">p.62</span> tenor song from "The Bohemian Girl," "Then You’ll +Remember Me," and it has been a favorite with me ever since. W. K. +Bull, who presided over so many municipal elections, and was a very +well-read man, also took part, giving a reading on Australia, and +ending up with a recitation.</p> + +<p>Crossing the street, we come to the Brown Jug, the same to-day as +then, but kept by Tommy Golden, a well-known character then. In the +front is a hydrant with a water-cart getting its load for +distribution through the city. The water was conveyed in wooden pipes +from Spring Ridge and sold by the bucket, which may be seen on the +shafts of the cart. Forty of these buckets represented one dollar. +Opposite the Brown Jug and across the street is a vacant lot, now +occupied by the Bank of Commerce. The opposite corner to this is also +vacant, but soon after was built the present brick building by J. J. +Southgate and Captain Lascelles, R.N., of the gunboat <i>Boxer</i>.</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img12"> +<img width="517" height="268" src="images/vi12.jpg" alt="[Illustration: Fort St., Eastward.]" /> +</div> + +<p>This view represents the south side of Fort Street, from the Brown +Jug corner east. The wooden building next is a photograph gallery +owned by Fred. Dally. He with R. Maynard were the only ones in the +business at that time, I think. Next is Dr. Powell’s residence and +surgery; the house is not visible, being set back from the street. +Alexander McLean’s "Scotch House" clothing store is plainly seen. +Amongst those standing in front are Mr. McLean, the proprietor; James +Fell, who later on was mayor; William McNiffe, of the "Grotto," and +Thomas Harris, already mentioned, who is on horseback. Above McLean’s +is Murray’s Scotch bakery, where I have gone often for bread and +shortcake. Four doors above is A. & W. Wilson’s, plumbers and gas +fitters, and Tom Wilson may be seen standing on the <span class="pagenum">p.63</span> sidewalk—he +is the only one of the brothers not here to-day. Next is Birmingham +House, Kent & Evans, Charles Kent, the city treasurer, being senior +partner. Across Broad Street is John Weiler’s upholstery store. Then +comes James Fell & Co., grocers; then M. R. Smith & Co., bakers. +Above Douglas Street there were few or no stores. On the upper corner +was D. Babbington Ring, an English barrister, who always walked about +with a dog-whip in hand and several dogs after him.</p> + +<p>Above the corner lived Dr. Baillie, a cousin of Sir M. B. Begbie, who +was afterwards drowned in South America. We come next to the +Congregational Church, which lived a short life as a church, for Dr. +Ash bought it and turned it into a residence, taking down the +steeple, which may now be seen in the photo. It passed into the hands +of Dr. Meredith Jones after Dr. Ash’s death. Above this I remember +little as to individual houses, but know that they were very +scattered.</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img13"> +<img width="540" height="280" src="images/vi13.jpg" alt="[Illustration: Yates St., Eastward.]" /> +</div> + +<p>This view represents Yates Street, from the corner of Wharf, south +side. I have briefly mentioned Sutro’s tobacco warehouse, and this is +the Yates Street side of it. There was a large figure of a Turk with +a turban and large pipe as a business sign on the corner of the +street. Next to Sutro’s is Joseph Boscowitz’s, the pioneer dealer in +furs, and as may be seen he is not now far from his former place of +business. Next door is the firm of Wolf & Morris, that I cannot now +remember. The saloon next door was kept by Burns & Dwyer—the latter, +I think, still lives on Pandora Street. Next door but one is William +Dalby’s saddlery shop, and he is with us to-day. Guy Huston, the +gunsmith, occupied the next store. He was the principal gunsmith in +the city, and his two daughters, both married <span class="pagenum">p.64</span> to prominent men +of business, are still residents of the city. Alfred Fellows, iron +and hardware merchant, who comes next, was the founder of the +business of E. G. Prior & Company. The Fashion Hotel was kept by John +C. Keenan, an American, and was a first-class gambling house and +dancing hall. High play was the order, and many a Cariboo miner in +the winter months threw away his easily-got gold by the hundreds +here. Keenan was a prominent fire chief in those days of volunteer +firemen. Wells Fargo’s Express comes next, presided over by Colonel +Pendergast and Major Gillingham. On the arrival of a San Francisco +steamer there was a rush to Wells Fargo’s for letters, and soon after +the receipt of the express bags at the office the place would be full +to the doors. I might state that it was the custom then for all mail +steamers to fire a gun on arrival, either at the mouth of the harbor +or inside the harbor itself, so that we gathered at the post-office +and express office soon after. Either Colonel Pendergast or Major +Gillingham then mounted a chair and called off the addresses, and the +letters were either flipped or passed on to their owners by those +nearest the caller, for it seemed as if everybody knew each other. +Twenty-five cents was the postage paid in advance. Next door is +the telegraph office and Barnard’s express. Our old friend, Robert +McMicking, had charge of the telegraph, and maybe the express also, +but I have forgotten. Langley & Co., the well-known druggists, I can +remember ever since I can remember Victoria. The building is pretty +much now as it was then, only larger. Those connected with its early +history have passed away, excepting it may be Mr. Pimbury; Mr. A. J. +Langley, who died in late years; Mr. Jones, who went into business in +Cariboo and died there, and <span class="pagenum">p.65</span> Mr. Pimbury, who went to Nanaimo +and into business for himself. Between Langley’s and the corner +of Langley Street, was Jay & Bales’ seed store. Both these early +pioneers have gone to their rest, although the business is still +carried on on Broad Street by Mr. Savory.</p> + +<p>On the corner is the Fardon building, which in 1859 was occupied by +Hibben & Carswell, the beginning of the firm of T. N. Hibben & Co. +Mr. Hibben, Mr. Carswell and Mr. Kammerer, the principals, have all +gone to their rest, but the firm still lives and nourishes. An +incident connected with the junior partner might here be recalled. +One summer day Mr. Carswell, if I remember right, was one of a picnic +party, who got lost in the woods near Muir’s farm 30 miles from town, +and the balance of the party returning to town without him, a search +party was organized and a reward offered by Mr. Hibben for his +partner’s return. They left next morning, and after a long and strict +search, as the party was returning to town to report their want of +success, whom should they see ahead of them but the lost James +Carswell, trudging along on the highroad to town. He was told that +they were a search party sent out to look for him, and that they were +glad they found him. "Found me!" said Mr. Carswell; "why, I am on my +way home!" and they then proceeded to town together. When the party +reached home Mr. Carswell was told that Mr. Hibben had sent the +searchers, and had offered a reward for his finding. This Mr. +Carswell objected to pay, protesting that they had not found him, but +that he had found himself, and was on his way home when they met him. +It caused a great deal of merriment, and was a standing joke for some +time. An incident like this would be the talk of <span class="pagenum">p.66</span> the town in +those good old days, and many visits would be paid to Campbell’s +corner, kept by John Molowanski, a Russian, to hear if any news had +been received of the lost Mr. Carswell.</p> + +<p>The first time I remember going to Hibben & Carswell’s was in 1860, +when I went to exchange a prize book I had won at school, and which +was imperfectly bound, having several pages out of place. It was then +I first saw Mr. Kammerer, and he informed me afterwards that he had +just then been promoted from porter to assist in the office, and from +this dated his rise in the firm to a partnership. Upstairs in this +building was the Masonic hall and Fardon’s photographic studio. +Across the street are Moore & Co., druggists, an old established +business of 1859 or ’60, the present proprietor’s father being the +founder of the business. The Bank of British North America next door +is, so far as I can remember, the pioneer bank in Victoria. I +assisted in the assaying department for a short time in 1867. The +next building is the famed Campbell’s corner (the Adelphi). Who among +our pioneers does not remember the genial face of Frank Campbell, his +corner and all the associations connected with it? When was Frank not +at the corner? I should say only when he was eating and sleeping. +Morning, noon and until 11 o’clock at night he was on duty. All the +births, deaths and marriages were recorded on his intelligence +board. All the news of the day, events from abroad and at home—all +were recorded by Frank. There never lived a better-tempered or +so good-hearted a fellow. Before going home after a lodge or a +political meeting the last thing was to call at the "corner" for +the latest bit of news. It was the meeting-place of many who made +it their headquarters. Evening after <span class="pagenum">p.67</span> evening for years Frank +had his audience. Everyone knew him and to know him was to like +him—"<i>requiescat in pace</i>." Across Government Street and next to +Zelner’s drug store I see the sign of J. S. Drummond, stoves and +tinware. He was a grand master of Oddfellows, a prominent Mason, a +fire chief, an officer of militia, and served a term in the city +council. Beyond Drummond’s I cannot make out any more signs or +buildings, even with the magnifying glass, and I have looked long +and hard until my eyes ache. A deal might be written of many more +of the old streets and their inhabitants, but it might be undertaken +by someone else with a better memory, and who was older and took a +prominent part in affairs of that day.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.68</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov06">CHAPTER VI.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">A LITTLE MORE STREET HISTORY.</p> + +<p>I have before me an old photo, showing the corner of Government and +Yates Streets, as also Yates Street to Wharf Street. It is so faded +it is difficult to make out anything very distinctly. All the +buildings look as if built of wood. We know there were three brick +buildings then, which have been written of in my last article on "The +First Victoria Directory." So I will here only mention the corner +building, afterwards known as the Adelphi. Up to 1860 the treasury +and other public offices did business in and about this corner; the +whole block, Mr. Higgins states, was government buildings to the +corner on which stands Moore & Co.’s drug store. It is of the +treasury in 1859 I am going to speak now. The official staff at that +time consisted of Captain Gossett, treasurer; John Cooper, chief +clerk; John Graham, bookkeeper, and E. Evans, clerk. John Graham, of +Simcoe Street, after many years’ good work for the government and +people, has retired. Young Evans, who was the only son of Rev. Doctor +Evans, one of the two pioneer clergymen of the Methodist Church at +that time, came to a tragic end while a young man. One day in the +depth of winter, the ground covered with snow, young Evans went out +shooting, and while walking along the beach near Clover Point, shot +at a drove of ducks. Finding that he had shot one, and not being able +to get it any other <span class="pagenum">p.69</span> way, he stripped off his clothes and swam off +for it. This in the month of December was a hazardous undertaking, +and so it proved, for the young fellow took the cramp and was +drowned. It was a very sad sight, so I am told by those who saw it, +the old father walking up and down the beach all night calling for +his son by name. In the morning the son was seen through the clear +cold water lying on the bottom, and the body recovered. I remember +his funeral, and to-day may be seen the granite shaft that marks his +resting-place in the south-west corner of the Quadra Street Cemetery. +In 1860 the staff of the treasury was sent to New Westminster, where +they remained until 1868, when the union of the island and mainland +took place. Some time subsequent to this removal a lot of vouchers +and valuable papers disappeared from the treasury, having been put +temporarily on top of the big safe. Search was made all over the +premises, and the loss caused Captain Gossett much anxiety up to the +time of their departure. Mr. Graham stayed behind to finish up some +business and see to the removal of the big safe, and during the +removal the mystery of the lost documents was solved by their +being found behind the safe. Some time after removing to New +Westminster, a Mr. Franks, who may be remembered by some as a very +insignificant-looking little man, succeeded Captain Gossett as +treasurer, and through his unpopularity with the staff, John Cooper, +the chief clerk, resigned and went to Australia. Mr. Graham became +chief clerk, and subsequently was appointed "officer in charge of +the treasury." After Confederation he was appointed by the Dominion +Government Assistant Receiver-General. I cannot do better here than +give verbatim Mr. Graham’s remarks on the subject:</p> + +<blockquote> +<p class="pagenum">p.70</p> + +<p class="dateline">"88 Simcoe St., April 20, 1904.</p> + +<p>"Dear Mr. Fawcett:—I send you these few lines to complete my rather +disrupted memory <i>re</i> the Victoria Treasury office. Mr. +Alexander Calder, an ex-R. E. sergeant and a British Government +pensioner, joined in 1860. Robert Ker was also employed for a certain +time as clerk, but was removed to the audit office, and afterwards +became auditor-general. Gordon was appointed treasurer of Vancouver +Island on the exodus of the B. C. officials going to New Westminster; +he did not continue long in the office—the truth is, there was +something the matter with the ‘chest,’ and he took French leave. Mr. +Watson succeeded him; he was clever but not very popular. In 1867 the +island and mainland were united in one province; the officials at New +Westminster were all sent down to Victoria. At that time I was +‘officer in charge of the treasury.’ A Savings Bank Act was passed by +the Legislature. I received from the executive council a mandate to +establish the bank, with the head office in Victoria, and four +branches, one each at Nanaimo, New Westminster, Yale and Cariboo. The +bank was under commissioners, Mr. Roscoe and Mr. Langley being +nominated to that office; their services were purely gratuitous. The +head office of the bank was in the Treasury, but to accommodate +working men, an office was opened at Government Street, not very far +from Sehl’s furniture store, for, I think, two hours two days in the +week.</p> + +<p>"I do not know if I mentioned the fact that the Dominion virtually +bought out all the depositors in the British Columbia bank. A small +temporary office was opened at the foot of Fort Street, next to what +was Mitchell & Johnston’s feed store, which was in use until the new +Post Office building was built; the savings bank, as you are aware, +is now located in the grand new building at the foot of Government +Street. If it would not be considered far-fetched I would like to +send you a word or two on the <span class="pagenum">p.71</span> origin of savings banks. The first +ideas of thrift were promulgated by Daniel Defoe in 1697; it was a +happy Socialistic discovery. In 1797 Jeremy Bentham taught the +principles of thrift. In 1799 the first savings bank was started at +Windover in Buckinghamshire, by the Rev. Joseph Smith. The Rev. Dr. +Henry Duncan opened in Ruthwell, Dumfrieshire, the first savings bank +in Scotland in 1810. Thrift is the keystone that supports the arch +of the savings bank. The stormy petrel riding in safety on the crest +of the wave in instinctive security, symbolizes the security of a +depositor in a government savings bank. I do not know that I can say +any more at present.</p> + +<p class="sig sc">"John Graham."</p> +</blockquote> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img14"> +<img width="540" height="294" src="images/vi14.jpg" alt="[Illustration: Theatre Royal on Government St.]" /> +</div> + +<p>This little photo shows the west side of Government Street, from Fort +to Yates Street, as it appeared in 1863. The corner store was A. +Rickman’s grocery, then Jones’ Bazaar (toys and fancy goods), then +McNiff’s saloon, next Payne’s barber shop. Before going on I might, +with Mr. Payne’s permission, give a little joke on that gentleman at +the time. The Mechanics’ Institute gave an entertainment for, I +think, the benefit of the library, and prizes were offered for the +two best conundrums. The best was at the expense of Mr. Payne’s name, +and was "Easy Shaving by Pain" (Payne). I don’t think Mr. Payne took +the money. Then Norris & Wylly, notaries public and estate +agents,—Mr. Wylly is still a resident of the city; Messrs. Lush and +Zinkie, milliners; Shakespeare, photographer; Gentile, photographer +(over the theatre), then Theatre Royal.</p> + +<p>The north-west corner of Government and Bastion Streets was the brick +building built by Mayor Harris as a residence, and afterwards turned +into the Bank of <span class="pagenum">p.72</span> British Columbia. Next the bank was the <i>Daily +Standard</i> building, built and owned by Mr. De Cosmos; then T. L. +Fawcett & Co., upholsterers; then T. C. Nuttall, Phœnix insurance; +William Heathorn, bootmaker; next comes the post-office, a single +story frame structure with a wooden awning in front, as were all +stores in those times. Mr. Wootton was postmaster. One of the few +brick buildings on Government Street comes next, built for and +occupied by William Burlington Smith, and containing a public hall +upstairs. It was in this hall that the British Columbia Pioneer +Society was organized on the evening of April 28th, 1871, the writer +being secretary of the meeting. Since died. William P. Sayward, who +resides in San Francisco, and myself are the only two remaining of +those pioneers who met in Smith’s Hall that night and formed the +first society of British Columbia Pioneers. Next we have the Adelphi +saloon, on the site of the Government offices of 1860. This is as far +as the photo shows, and so I must close.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.73</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov07">CHAPTER VII.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">THE VICTORIA GAZETTE, 1858.</p> + +<p>Through the kindness of a "fifty-eighter" I am enabled to give my +readers, especially the old-timers, some extracts from this, the +pioneer newspaper of Victoria, if not of British Columbia. To me, +although only a "fifty-niner," and at the time a juvenile, these +extracts are very interesting, for I remember nearly all the +personages mentioned, and it is the incidents that these names are +connected with that I mention. The editors announce in this, the +first number, that they at first intended to name their paper The +<i>Anglo-American</i>, but on second thought changed it to the +<i>Victoria Gazette</i>, as more appropriate. The editors and +proprietors were Williston & Bartlett, and the paper was a +semi-weekly. To show the primitive and makeshift nature of things in +early Victoria I will quote the first local item: "It is cheering to +note the increase in frame and canvas buildings that are springing +up."</p> + +<p>Mr. Thomas Harris, of the Queen’s market, is the first to open a +butcher shop in the Island.</p> + +<p>The arrival of the first batch of Chinese by the steamer +<i>Oregon</i>. The sign of the first to go into business appears as +"Chang Tsoo," washing and ironing.</p> + +<p>The beautiful view of the Olympic range covered with snow, as seen +from Government Street, is commented on as a sight worth seeing.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.74</p> + +<p>Another item informs its readers that twenty vessels were advertised +in San Francisco as on the berth for Victoria.</p> + +<p>A most important announcement is that up to the present time there +were no taxes levied in Victoria, except as liquor licenses. To sell +retail the privilege cost $600 per annum, and for a wholesale license +£100 or $485.</p> + +<p>In nearly every number there is a cry of "No water; who will dig the +first artesian well? In case there should be a fire how was it to be +put out?" Then a suggestion of a public meeting to consider the +important question, and a petition to Governor Douglas to have large +tanks erected at the foot of Johnson Street, near the bridge, and to +have salt water pumped up. Then a fire engine is asked for. In fact +Governor Douglas seems to have been appealed to for everything they +wanted, and in this instance he seems to have been the right man to +appeal to, as will be seen later.</p> + +<p>In a later edition is the announcement of the arrival of the steamer +<i>Oregon</i> from San Francisco with mail, express and 1,900 +passengers.</p> + +<p>Alex. C. Anderson is appointed collector of customs by Governor +Douglas.</p> + +<p>The Governor has ordered two fire engines from San Francisco, and +still the cry is "Water! water!" "Dig wells, citizens, we must have a +supply." The editor seems to have water on the brain. It is suggested +that there be an ordinance compelling people to have so many buckets +of water alongside each tent.</p> + +<p>The council have ordered the removal of all bodies from the cemetery +on Johnson and Douglas Streets to the new cemetery on Quadra Street.</p> + +<p>July 7th.—Complaints are made that a fence obstructs <span class="pagenum">p.75</span> View +Street, so that pedestrians have to go along Broad to Yates or Fort, +and down these streets to reach Government. This obstruction does +not seem to have been removed permanently, for Hibben & Co.’s store +occupies this lot, and before the brick one was erected there was +a large wooden building then owned by J. J. Southgate. That it was +not intended that View Street should end at Broad is evident, as +Bastion Street was then known as View Street, being so-called in +Mallandaine’s first directory in 1860.</p> + +<p>Another petition to Governor Douglas. This one by the local clergy to +have a branch of the Y. M. C. A. instituted in Victoria.</p> + +<p>The steamers <i>Orizaba</i> and <i>Cortez</i> have arrived with the +large number of 2,800 passengers.</p> + +<p>Proceedings of the House of Assembly.—Present: J. D. Pemberton, +James Yates, J. Kennedy, J. W. McKay, T. J. Skinner and Speaker +Helmcken. The latter gentleman asked to be relieved of the +Speakership for reasons he has already stated. After a discussion on +the subject it was decided that the Speaker be not allowed to retire, +and the honorable gentleman continued to act.</p> + +<p>The paper complains that the P. M. S. Co.’s steamers have lately +dumped Victoria passengers at Esquimalt and carried the freight to +Bellingham Bay, and after unloading Bellingham Bay freight have come +back to Esquimalt with the Victoria freight. In consequence of this +arrangements were to be made so that the steamers land the Victoria +freight in our harbor.</p> + +<p>The Freemasons are invited to meet at Southgate’s new store on Monday +evening, July 12th, at 7 o’clock, to consider important matters +connected with the organization of the order.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.76</p> + +<p>Three thousand five hundred mining licenses have so far been granted.</p> + +<p>In a cutting from a European paper there is an item to the effect +that it was generally understood that the Queen’s family name was +Guelph, but that such was not the case, as that was the name of a +religious faction of which the Elector of Hanover was the head, but +that the real name of the family was "D’este."</p> + +<p>Wells, Fargo & Co. will soon open a bank.</p> + +<p>Collector Anderson notifies the public that all necessary provisions +for miners for personal use may be taken up the Fraser River free.</p> + +<p>It is announced that Rev. E. Cridge holds service every Sunday +afternoon on Wharf Street, opposite the Fort gate.</p> + +<p>In consequence of the reduction in the price of lumber to $50 per +1,000 feet, houses are springing up everywhere.</p> + +<p>Governor Douglas has appointed Mr. Augustus Pemberton commissioner of +police.</p> + +<p>Theatricals are held in a mammoth tent, as there is so far no +theatre.</p> + +<p>One of the fire engines, named "Telegraph," bought by the Governor, +has arrived from San Francisco, the cost of which is $1,600.</p> + +<p>There has not been a death from natural causes in the city during the +last thirty days.</p> + +<p>The <i>Gazette</i> having received an Adams power press, the paper +will be issued daily in future, and the proprietors look for a +recognition of their enterprise. The rates are $20 per annum or +12½c. per copy.</p> + +<p>The First Brick Building.—This matter may now be considered settled +by this item, which reads: "Our <span class="pagenum">p.77</span> first brick building is about +completed, and is to be opened as a hotel" (referring to the +Victoria.)</p> + +<p>The first steamer to reach Fort Yalo is the <i>Umatilla</i>, 21st +July, 1858.</p> + +<p>The streets of Victoria have not yet been sprinkled, and there are +many complaints from shopkeepers as to the damage their goods receive +from dust. Why not use salt water, if fresh cannot be had?</p> + +<p>Roussett is building a wharf at the foot of View Street, and Chas. B. +Young one at the foot of Johnson. The former of these items would be +hard to understand by people of the present day, "at the foot of View +Street." This is, I think, the explanation. As originally laid out +View Street extended from above Cook Street to Wharf Street, and +would to-day were it not that Hibben & Co.’s building or stores stand +in the way. On July 7th, as already mentioned in this article, the +<i>Gazette</i> stated that there was great dissatisfaction at the +fencing of the vacant lot on Broadway (Broad Street), opposite View, +which they stated was used as a "cabbage patch," and there was talk +of pulling the fence down. All the agitation seems to have amounted +to nothing, for not only was the fence not pulled down, but J. J. +Southgate, one of the earliest merchant emigrants, erected a large +wooden building on the street. By referring to the engraving this +building may be seen; later on J. J. Southgate erected the present +brick building. The paper stated later that the Governor had sold the +lot to Southgate, and that settled the matter.</p> + +<p>Sheriff Muir announces by advertisement that anyone found with +firearms on their person would be arrested and punished.</p> + +<p>A salute was fired from the fort bastions on the arrival <span class="pagenum">p.78</span> of +Governor F. McMullen, of Washington Territory, accompanied by +Governor Douglas, who had met the American Governor at Esquimalt, +this being a friendly visit to our Governor.</p> + +<p>In future Sheriff Muir will arrest all gamblers.</p> + +<p>An Indian, convicted of stealing, was tied up in the fort grounds and +received twelve lashes by Sheriff Muir.</p> + +<p>Captain William Brotchie has been appointed harbor master for +Victoria by Governor Douglas.</p> + +<p>An exclusive grant was made by the Legislature to a company to supply +Victoria with water for ten years.</p> + +<p>The fare by steamer from San Francisco to Victoria is $30.</p> + +<p>A fire occurred in the ravine on Johnson Street, which destroyed a +canvas house tent and contents.</p> + +<p>Two fire engines have arrived, and a petition is being signed to the +Governor, praying him to organize a volunteer fire department under +an officer appointed by himself.</p> + +<p>A regular stage now plies between Victoria and the naval station, +leaving Bayley’s Hotel, corner Yates and Government Streets +(Pritchard House corner), hourly, the fare being one dollar each way.</p> + +<p>The following gentlemen call a public meeting by advertisement to +organize a volunteer fire department: M. F. Truett, J. J. Southgate, +A. Kaindler, A. H. Guild, Charles Potter, Samuel Knight and J. N. +Thain. This was the initial movement to form the volunteer fire +department which did such good service for thirty years afterwards.</p> + +<p>"July 28th, 1858.—The steamer <i>Wilson G. Hunt</i> left San +Francisco to ply in these waters." Where is she now? and how old is +she?</p> + +<p>At the public meeting called to organize a volunteer <span class="pagenum">p.79</span> fire +department M. F. Truett was called to the chair, E. E. Eyres was +elected secretary, and the following working committee was appointed: +Jas. Yates, Chas. A. Bayley, J. H. Doan, Leopold Lowenberg, Rousett, +Truett and Myers. The Hunneman engine to be known as No. 1 and the +Telegraph as No. 2. The committee were to select one hundred men to +each engine to form the companies. The first meeting of No. 2 company +called, and the notice is signed by H. J. Labatt, W. F. Bartlett, J. +W. Turnbull and David Green.</p> + +<p>Albert H. Guild calls a meeting of all Oddfellows in good standing to +meet on July 5th, at which it was decided that a register of all +Oddfellows should be kept; a weekly meeting was to be held each +Wednesday evening at eight o’clock over Guild & Webb’s store, corner +Wharf and Fort Streets; C. Bartlett, secretary. From this meeting of +a few members of this most beneficent order has sprung into existence +forty-two lodges scattered all over the province, with a total +membership of 3,527, and I am afraid that to-day not one of those +faithful few brothers of the mystic three links survives.</p> + +<p>August 4th, <a id="emen3">1858.</a>—The first arrival of the steamer <i>Pacific</i> in +Victoria harbor is announced.</p> + +<p>The Public Examination of Craigflower Colonial School +(Midsummer).—In the absence of the Governor, Rev. Edward Cridge +examined the pupils, and prizes were presented to Jessie McKenzie, +Wm. Lidgate, Christine Veitch and Dorothea McKenzie. The prizes were +donated by the Governor. Old-timers will remember these names well.</p> + +<p>Married by Rev. E. Cridge, Wm. Reid to Margaret Work.</p> + +<p>First trip of the steamer <i>Leviathan</i> to Puget Sound, <span class="pagenum">p.80</span> Captain +Titcombe. This leviathan of the deep was so small that she was +hoisted on the deck of a steamer from San Francisco, and so arrived +from that place.</p> + +<p>The paper announces that over one hundred vessels from all parts were +then on the berth for Victoria, and what was to be done to find +wharfage room for so many in Victoria harbor?</p> + +<p>Fire Engine Company No. 1 held its first meeting at the American +Saloon, August 6th, 1858. J. H. Kent was elected president and +Charles R. Nichols secretary. The American Saloon was on Yates +Street, and I think was kept by Thos. Burnes, who for years was a +most enthusiastic fireman.</p> + +<p>An editorial calls for the establishment of a public hospital, a jail +and a deadhouse (the latter seems a strange want, at least an urgent +one). The present jail is too small, and coroner’s inquests have to +be held in the open air in front of the jail; the jury stand around +the corpse, some leaning against it, spread on some boards, and the +coroner sits on the top of an empty barrel (very primitive).</p> + +<p>The public examination of Victoria Colonial school (on the site of +Central School). Rev. E. Cridge and the master, Jno. Kennedy, +examined the pupils. Prizes were given to David Work, Wm. Leigh and +James Pottinger. Six months later the writer was a pupil of this +school.</p> + +<p>Birth.—August 12th, 1858, the wife of Wm. A. Mouatt, of a daughter.</p> + +<p>Married.—Same date, Edward Parsons, H. M. S. <i>Satellite</i>, to +Emma, eldest daughter of James Thorn.</p> + +<p>Improvements.—Since 12th June there have been two hundred and fifty +brick and wooden houses erected in the city.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.81</p> + +<p>A writer thinks it time that Victoria’s streets were named and an +official map made.</p> + +<p>A. Pemberton, commissioner of police, notifies the public that no +more canvas or wood and canvas houses will be allowed, as they are a +public nuisance.</p> + +<p>August 24th, 1858.—The stern wheeler <i>Enterprise</i> has arrived +from Astoria, Capt. Thomas Wright, master. She is to run on the +Fraser River to Langley.</p> + +<p>An open letter to Rev. E. Cridge appears in the <i>Gazette</i> from +an indignant American, who, with his family, had attended Rev. Mr. +Cridge’s preachings, and who now feels insulted at the treatment he +received lately by the sexton showing a negro into the same pew +occupied by himself and family, also treating other respectable +Americans in the same way. He further stated that, the day being +warm, the peculiar odor was very objectionable, so that several +Americans left before the service was over.</p> + +<p>A day or two later this is answered by a letter signed M. G. W., who +was a colored grocer of Yates Street (Lester & Gibbs). He was a +clever writer, and handled the gentleman, Mr. Sharpstone, without +gloves, saying some very pertinent as well as impertinent things, +taking especial exception to the reference of Mr. Sharpstone to the +peculiar odor and perspiration.</p> + +<p>Mr. Cridge appears with a letter, throwing oil on the troubled +waters, and the editor thinks enough has been said.</p> + +<p>The arrival of the steamer <i>Otter</i> with news of a massacre of +forty-five miners at Fort Hope by Indians; the news is considered of +doubtful truth.</p> + +<p>There is a project to build a bridge across French Ravine, where +Store Street passes over it. Was this ever done, or was it filled in +instead? Who can answer?</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.82</p> + +<p>House of Assembly, Aug. 26th, 1858.—Petition from Nelson & Sons for +exclusive privilege to supply city with water from a spring two miles +to northeast of city, at the rate of 1½ cents per gallon, and a +free supply to the Hudson’s Bay Company; also a petition from Hy. +Toomy & Co., to light the town with gas. Mr. Pemberton gave notice of +a resolution to provide for the erection of a bridge at Point Ellice; +also a petition from Edward Stamp to grant him the privilege of +bringing water into Victoria by means of pipes along the streets.</p> + +<p>A Chinaman (one of the first batch to arrive) was found shot dead +with five bullets in his body. He was on his way to a spring to fetch +a bucket of water, and had to pass a camp of miners. Further comment +unnecessary.</p> + +<p>A change of ownership of the <i>Gazette</i> is announced, and Abel +Whitton becomes proprietor.</p> + +<p>A notice appears that all persons requiring seats in Victoria +District Church should apply to J. Farquhar, in the Fort.</p> + +<p>Bayley’s Hotel, corner Yates and Government Streets, J. C. Keenan, +proprietor. Board $15 a week.</p> + +<p>A cricket match between H. M. S. <i>Satellite’s</i> and Victoria +elevens at Beacon Hill.</p> + +<p>"Tipperary Bill" shoots a man at this cricket match and kills him. He +is still at large.</p> + +<p>September 14th, 1858.—News just arrived of the laying of the +Atlantic cable, and a salute of twenty-one guns to be fired from the +Fort.</p> + +<p>There have been 344 houses erected in Victoria in three months.</p> + +<p>New Map of City Issued.—The first three streets named after the +three Governors—Quadra, Blanchard <span class="pagenum">p.83</span> and Douglas. Secondly, after +distinguished navigators on the coast—Vancouver and Cook. Thirdly, +after the first ships to visit these waters—Discovery, Herald and +Cormorant. Fourthly, after Arctic adventurers—Franklin, Kane, +Bellot and Rae; and fifthly, after Canadian cities, lakes and +rivers—Montreal, Quebec, Toronto, St. Lawrence, Ottawa, Superior +and Ontario.</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img15"> +<img width="528" height="278" src="images/vi15.jpg" alt="[Illustration: Inside Fort from Wharf St.]" /> +</div> + +<p class="pagenum">p.84</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov08">CHAPTER VIII.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">VICTORIA IN 1859–1860.</p> + +<p>I have before me an old picture of Victoria as it appeared in 1860. +It is a watercolor sketch, drawn and colored by H. O. Tedieman, C.E., +and artist. For me this picture has a great fascination, because it +reminds me of those days gone by—"those good old days," as an old +friend of those pioneer days remarked to me recently. A prettier +place could not be imagined, with its undulating ground covered with +grass relieved by spreading oaks and towering pines.</p> + +<p>By the aid of this picture and information furnished me by Colonel +Wolfenden and Mr. Harry Glide, I am enabled to give a pen-picture of +the Queen City of the West forty-four years ago. Colonel Wolfenden +says that when he first remembers James Bay he saw a gang of +Indians—it may be one hundred—under "Grizzly" Morris, a contractor, +and superintended by H. O. Tedieman, with pick, shovel and +wheelbarrow making Belleville Street along the water and in front of +the Government building. The sea beach then came up in front of the +large trees on the Government grounds, about eighty or one hundred +feet further inland. All this space was filled or reclaimed from the +sea by the Indians. I might say that Chinese were almost as rare in +those days in Victoria as Turks. Indians performed all manual +labor—in fact were to that day what John Chinaman is to this. James +Bay bridge, which was <span class="pagenum">p.85</span> just built, looks a very frail structure +in this picture, and must have been, as Colonel Wolfenden says, +intended for passenger and light vehicular traffic, there being +nothing to cause heavy traffic over the bay, the only houses of any +moment being the pagoda-like buildings erected in 1859 for the +Government, and replaced by the present palatial buildings, of which +there were five. In addition to these I see the residence of Governor +Douglas and Dr. Helmcken, Captain Mouat and City Clerk Leigh. There +was also a good-sized house on Beckley Farm, corner of Menzies +Street, in charge of John Dutnall and wife. Across Menzies Street +there is the cottage now owned and occupied by Mr. Jesse Cowper, +since dead, which was then occupied by John Tait of the Hudson’s Bay +Company’s service, and who was an enthusiastic volunteer of the white +blanket uniforms of 1861.</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img16"> +<img width="524" height="420" src="images/vi16.jpg" alt="[Illustration: Government buildings, 1859–60.]" /> +</div> + +<p>I see what I think was the residence of W. A. Young, on Superior +Street, who was Colonial Secretary, and whose wife was a daughter of +Chief Justice Cameron. If this is the place I see, it is still +standing, and for years was the residence of the late Andrew J. +Smith. To the right of the Government buildings is an isolated +cottage which I believe is still in the land of the living, being +built of corrugated iron, brought out from England by Captain +Gossett, who in 1859 was colonial treasurer, mention of whom will be +made later on. From Mr. Leigh’s residence, which with Captain Mouat’s +was on the site of Belleville Street, until you come to St. John +Street, there is a blank. On the corner is the house built and +occupied by Captain Nagle, now occupied by Mr. Redfern, and across +the street another built by James N. Thain and now occupied by Mr. +George Simpson of the customs. From this on to the <span class="pagenum">p.86</span> outer dock I +see three isolated houses, that still remain. The large one was built +and occupied by Mr. Laing of "Laing’s Ways," the pioneer shipbuilder; +another by Captain H. McKay, the sealer captain; the third was built +out of the upper works of the wrecked steamer <i>Major Tomkins</i>, the +first steamer to run from Olympia to Victoria. She was wrecked off +Macaulay Point in 1856. Mr. Laing bought the upper works and built +this house. Lumber in those days had mostly to be imported from +San Francisco—that is, the wood for fine work. Mr. Muir, of Sooke, +bought the boilers and engines, which he put into a sawmill he built +there, and good service they gave for years. Before the road opposite +the Government grounds, which is now Belleville Street, was reclaimed +from the sea, there was an Indian trail which ran through the woods, +from Laing’s Ways, in the direction of town along the water-front, +around the head of the bay to Humboldt Street. I might say that the +plat of ground on which the Government buildings were built in 1859 +was bought from a French-Canadian who came overland from Montreal, +and although in the service of the Hudson’s Bay Company for years, +either could not or would not speak a word of English other than +"yes" or "no." He built his house here and lived here until he sold +out to the Government, the house being afterwards used as a +Government tool house.</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img17"> +<img width="540" height="431" src="images/vi17.jpg" alt="[Illustration: First bridge over James Bay.]" /> +</div> + +<p>Mr. Harry Glide, from whom I got these particulars, is a pioneer of +1856, and lived near the outer wharf. He married a daughter of Mr. +Laing. He says all James Bay from the bridge to the mouth of the +harbor was covered with pine trees, and all this land, together with +that facing Dallas Road up to Beacon Hill, was called Beckley Farm. +The greater part of all these trees were cut down for Kavaunah, a man +whom many <span class="pagenum">p.87</span> will remember as having a woodyard about where the +James Bay Athletic Association now stands.</p> + +<p>Mr. Glide says that there were quite a lot of Cherokee Indians here +who came from their native land to the coast of British Columbia for +work, and a fine body of men he says they were, most of them over six +feet and strongly built. It does seem strange that they should have +travelled so far from their homes and country. There were also many +Kanakas here, who came on vessels from Honolulu at odd times. They +formed a small colony and located on Kanaka Road, or Humboldt Street, +as it is now called. I can remember them in 1860, one family +attending service at Christ Church regularly.</p> + +<p>The most prominent building in sight is Victoria District Church, as +it stands out in relief on Church Hill. When I first went there as a +boy, it was a most primitive-looking building, with its low steeple +or dovecote (as it looked like). There were two bells in this +steeple, one larger than the other, which sounded ding dong, ding +dong, many a year, until early one morning James Kennedy, an old +friend of mine, as he was going home saw flames issuing from the +roof.</p> + +<p>He gave the alarm, and shortly after the whole town was there, and +the engines with volunteer firemen. Nothing could save it though, as +it was summer-time and very dry, and it was not more than an hour or +two before it had disappeared. The other day I had the pleasure of +meeting one of my schoolfellows of 1859, Ernest A. Leigh, of San +Francisco, a son of the second city clerk of Victoria, and who was +here on a visit to his niece, Mrs. George Simpson (customs). We of +course had a long talk over old times, the days of yore, the days of +’59. In looking over this old picture he <span class="pagenum">p.88</span> exclaimed, "There is the +old church we went to! My father built it," and then I remembered the +fact. Well can I remember the old church, with its old-fashioned +windows, seats and gallery, and its organ that stood in the gallery, +facing the congregation. When I first remembered it, Mrs. Atwood, now +Mrs. Sidney Wilson, was organist, and I was organ-blower. Originally +it was played as a barrel organ, as it contained three barrels which +contained ten tunes each, but Mr. Seeley, the owner and proprietor of +the Australian House, at the north end of James Bay bridge, made and +adapted a keyboard to it, and Mrs. Wilson played it in the morning +and in the afternoon. In the evening the keyboard was removed, and +your humble servant ground out the hymn tunes as on a barrel organ.</p> + +<p>It was in this gallery that I first met John Butts we have heard so +much of through Mr. Higgins. I remember Butts as a sleek, +respectable-looking young fellow with a nice tenor voice, which he +was not afraid to use, and he was quite an addition to the choir, of +which I was a juvenile member. In after years John fell from grace +and gave up the choir, and might have been heard singing as he walked +along the street, and not above taking fifty cents from someone well +able to give it. He was always cheerful and goodnatured, and if a +child were lost John would ring his bell and walk up and down calling +out the fact.</p> + +<p>This view of the old city is taken from the rocks on the Indian +reserve, and in the foreground is a large building which occupied the +site of the present marine hospital. When first I remember this +building it was used as a lunatic asylum. It is the only prominent +building shown on the reserve, with the exception of the Indian +lodges, which by the extent might accommodate <span class="pagenum">p.89</span> easily two +thousand Indians. The harbor is full of shipping, taking up the whole +frontage from the Hudson’s Bay Company’s wharf north, which is the +only one distinctly to be seen in the view. The vessels reach to the +bridge across the harbor.</p> + +<p>At anchor is the historic <i>Beaver</i>, and steaming out of the +harbor is the British steamer <i>Forward</i>. On the Hudson’s Bay +Company’s wharf is a large shed or house. I do not see the present +brick building, which was not built then (1859), but Mr. Glide says +in a large shed on this wharf the <i>British Colonist</i> first saw +the light, the advance sheets being printed here in 1858. When the +shed was torn down a little over a year ago there were brought to +light a number of old letters, which was a good find for the man who +had the job of taking the shed down, for there were lots of old +Vancouver Island stamps on these letters.</p> + +<p>The <i>Colonist</i> was moved from here to Wharf Street, about where +the Macdonald block now stands. Also Wells, Fargo’s express first did +business in this shed, then moved to Yates Street, where it was +located in a building, the lumber for which was imported from San +Francisco, being redwood. This building was afterwards moved to +Langley, between Bastion and Fort, and used as a feed store by Turner +& Todd, whom we all know.</p> + +<p>An incident by my schoolfellow Ernest Leigh, of Upland Farm in 1859, +finishes this reminiscence.</p> + +<h4 class="sc">Killing of Capt. Jack.</h4> + +<p>Referring to Mr. Higgins’ most interesting account of the killing of +the noted Indian chieftain, "Captain Jack," at the Victoria jail in +the year 1860—the result <span class="pagenum">p.90</span> of this shooting was to set the Indians +over on the reserve wild with excitement, which condition was aided +by a plentiful supply of infernal firewater obtained from the +notorious wholesale joint at the end of the Johnson Street bridge. +They immediately decided to start in their canoes up along the +straits toward Saanich, calling at the many farms and wreaking their +vengeance upon the settlers. A man was sent out from the fort on +horseback to warn the farmers. At the Uplands Farm at Cadboro Bay, +where the late William Leigh and family were residing, there were +some seventeen people—men, women and children. When the warning came +a hasty consultation was had, Mr. Leigh being away on business, as to +whether it would be best to load up the wagons and all move in to the +fort, or to barricade the house and run chances of being burned out, +or to hide away in the forest behind the farm. The latter course was +finally decided upon, and with a supply of blankets, mats and wraps, +for protection against the cold, a movement was made down into a +heavily wooded ravine about half a mile back of the farm, where, +hidden under the spreading branches of a large pine, the party made +themselves as comfortable as they could, the women and children +huddled close under the tree and the men and elder boys mounting +guard on the outer edge. Some of them were perched in the lower +branches with whatever arms they had been able to secure, principally +old Hudson Bay flintlock muskets.</p> + +<p>It was very dark and gloomy in the ravine, which was heavily timbered +with a pine forest, and the concealed partly expected that at any +time the Indians might arrive and fire the farm buildings, and +perhaps search for them.</p> + +<p>Just before dawn several dark forms were seen by <span class="pagenum">p.91</span> the best-sighted +of the men on watch, creeping cautiously up the ravine towards +the hiding-place. The cracking of twigs and an occasional grunt +were heard, and we knew the Indians were approaching. Word was +passed not to fire until our leader gave the signal, which was +finally given. Two of the old flintlocks went off, the others missed +fire. One of the bullets struck one of a drove of pigs which were +quietly feeding up the ravine and which in our terror we took for the +foe. The squeals of the wounded pig frightened the others, and the +whole drove came charging and squealing up the ravine right through +our camp, tumbling over men, women and children, whose screams, added +to the noise of the pigs, made matters a trifle lively until the +enemy went by. The morning growing bright, and no Indians appearing, +a cautious approach was made to the farm, and shortly after a runner +came from the fort with word that the Indians had taken to their +canoes the night before and had started out, but had been turned back +by the gunboat which was on watch, and they were not allowed to leave +the outer harbor, so our terror was without cause.</p> + +<p>(Note.—I saw the arrest of the Indian chief "Captain Jack," and +heard the shot fired by Constable Taylor that killed him, as I stood +outside the outer entrance to the gaol.—E. F.)</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.92</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov09">CHAPTER IX.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">FIRES AND FIREMEN.</p> + +<p>I had intended telling what I knew of the fires of early Victoria, +but when I sat down to put to paper what I know of any noted fires, I +first realized how little there was to tell of that dread element’s +ravages in early Victoria. But although there is not so much to tell +of great fires, there is a good deal to be said of the men who +prevented those fires becoming great, so I decided to go on with my +subject.</p> + +<p>For a city of its size and age, there could not be one more immune +from fires. Was it the fir of which we built most of our principal +buildings? Some contend it was. The Douglas fir was hard to burn, and +the honesty of those fir-built houseowners no doubt was also a +reason. In the <i>Victoria Gazette</i> of 1858 there are many +references to the subject of fires that might occur, and also to the +fact that there is no water to put out a fire should one occur. Then +the editor suggests a public meeting to consider the important +subject and also as to the building of large tanks to hold salt water +at the bottom of Johnson Street. Subsequently Governor Douglas is +petitioned to procure a fire engine, with the result that he ordered +two. Later one of these engines, named the "Telegraph," arrived from +San Francisco, and I believe was second-hand, as the price paid was +$1,600. Another petition was sent to the Governor to organize a fire +department under an officer <span class="pagenum">p.93</span> appointed by himself. Soon after a +public meeting was called by advertisement by the following +gentlemen to organize: M. F. Truett, J. J. Southgate, A. Kaindler, +A. H. Guild, Chas. Potter, Samuel Knight and J. N. Thain. This was +the initial movement to form a volunteer fire department.</p> + +<p>At a subsequent meeting, E. E. Eyres was appointed secretary, and the +following a working committee: James Yates (father of Alderman +Yates); Chas. A. Bayley, hotel-keeper, corner Yates and Government +Streets; Capt. J. H. Doan, since died (his daughter is still a +resident); Leopold Lowenberg, a real estate agent, and uncle of Carl +Lowenberg, German consul; and Roussett, Truett and Myers. This +committee was to select one hundred men to each engine to form the +companies. The first meeting of No. 2 engine was called and the +notice is signed by David Green (clothier, whose widow is still a +resident), H. J. Labatt, W. F. Bartlett and J. W. Turnbull. The first +meeting of Engine No. 1 was called to meet at the business place of +Thomas J. Burnes, August 6th, 1858 (customs staff.) His photo, taken +in 1860 by Robinson (over Theatre Royal), is here reproduced, showing +he has been elected foreman of his company. Mr. Burnes was a most +enthusiastic fireman for many years after this. The photo of Jno. C. +Keenan of same date is also given. He was another good fireman. +(Note.—Both these photos have been lost.—E. F.)</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img18"> +<img width="537" height="444" src="images/vi18.jpg" alt="[Illustration: Hook and Ladder Company.]" /> +</div> + +<p>A picture is here reproduced of a May Day parade of Victoria’s +volunteer firemen of forty years ago. I am sorry I am not able to +give the names of more of those in line, but the photo is so old it +is hard to make them out. Would you believe it, May Day was a general +holiday, and set apart as "Fireman’s" day, and celebrated <span class="pagenum">p.94</span> with a +parade and picnic, either at Medana’s Grove or Cook and North Park +Streets. The weather was usually fine with the warm sunshine of +spring. I hear the gong of the engines as the procession moves +along—the hook and ladder company, the Tigers and the Deluge +company, all decorated with flowers, flags and evergreens. Under a +canopy of flowers sits a beautiful little girl as the "May Queen." +On each side and following behind march those who have constituted +themselves the salvors of their fellow-citizens’ property and life. +Among these men were some of our prominent business men, merchants, +tradesmen and professional men, as well as workingmen. Would the +citizens of the present day believe that these men had banded +themselves together, put their hands in their pockets to build +engine-houses and equip engines, had given their time, either by +night or day, attending fires, and had paid monthly dues to keep the +concern going, and all without fee or reward? It is even so, and no +night was too cold or wet to keep these men from their duty. The +picture I produce of the "Hook and Ladders" in a May Day parade +of 1862 was taken from the original, and is here produced by the +kindness of Mr. Fred Morison (customs). He was then a torch boy and +continued a volunteer fireman for nearly thirty years. On account of +the age of the photo the faces are rather indistinct, so that some of +those present cannot be recognized. I should like to have known who +the six or seven boys are, and whether they are with us to-day, but I +make out of those present: Robt. Homfray, C.E.; J. D. Edgar, of Edgar +& Aime; Richard Lewis, undertaker; Murray Thain, now of Moodyville; +Henry and Robert Thain; Louis Vigelius, barber; Philip J. Hall, the +banner-bearer; W. <span class="pagenum">p.95</span> T. Liveock, Chief Factor of Hudson’s Bay +Company; Fred. Morison, customs, torch boy; Wolff, merchant, of Yates +Street; E. Grancini, merchant, Wharf Street; Wm. Harrison, now of +Saanich, and J. R. Anderson, Deputy Minister of Agriculture, secretary.</p> + +<p>On reading Mr. Levy’s interesting sketch appended, I see that the +Hotel de France was also destroyed by fire, and, being built of +California redwood, was entirely consumed.</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img19"> +<img width="389" height="310" src="images/vi19.jpg" alt="[Illustration: Colonial Hotel.]" /> +</div> + +<p>The first mention of a fire that is recorded in public print is taken +from the <i>Victoria Gazette</i> in 1858. It is that of one of those +primitive erections, a house-tent, with the contents thereof. At that +time Victoria was covered in all directions, I am told, with canvas +houses. In February, 1859, there were a great many, I know. As a +member of the Victoria fire department, hook and ladder company, I +attended many fires, but they were small comparatively. The +destruction of the Colonial Hotel on Government Street, as here +produced, is one of them. The Colonial was situated on Government +Street, between the Alhambra building on the corner of Yates and the +San Francisco baths (then kept by an old fireman, Thos. Geiger), +occupying also the upper portion of the building now used as a music +store by Fletcher Bros. The old photos of the Colonial show the hotel +before and after the fire. Sosthenes Driard, who was subsequently +proprietor of the Driard House, was the proprietor, and Mons. +Hartangle, who was afterwards co-partner with Driard in the Driard +House, was chief cook. He may be seen standing in front of Alex. +Gilmore’s clothing store (now Fletcher’s); also a man with crutches, +nicknamed "Pegleg Smith," who was an M.P.P. of that day, and behind +him is, I think, <span class="pagenum">p.96</span> your humble servant. Further south, and on the +same side as the Colonial, was the Hotel de France, Manciet and Bigne, +proprietors. Of this hotel I have a vivid recollection, as I paid +several visits there with my mother when I was a boy. She had heard of a +sick miner (maybe from Cariboo) who lay there dying. His physician, Dr. +Powell, had done all he could for him, and he knew his end was not far +off. He had, like hundreds of others, risked his precious health for +gold, had been successful, and now was to leave this beautiful world and +the gold with it. My mother thought it her duty to go and see him, read +to him, and tell him of the better world beyond. So one Sunday afternoon +she went, and I with her, to carry some little delicacy which he might +not be able to get in the usual way. She got sufficient encouragement to +go again and again, until the end came, and my mother was satisfied that +she had done him some good spiritually. To come back to fires. There was +the fire in Theatre Royal, after the play of the "Octoroon." Although +the theatre was gutted, it was not consumed, the reason being partly, +no doubt, that it was built of Douglas fir logs. The surroundings being +of a most inflammable nature, this was very surprising. I might also +instance the first and second fires at Christ Church, the second of +which only was successful in consuming the building. It was the custom +for every citizen present to lend a helping hand when a fire was of any +dimensions. It was only doing for another what you might want yourself +next week. If the fire was in the business portion of the city the +stores on the opposite side of the street were thrown open to receive +goods from the burning building, which were carried by many willing +helpers. Oh, the good <span class="pagenum">p.97</span> old days! As I have stated in a former +article, the bluejackets from the war vessels at Esquimalt were +telephoned for, and ran all the way up and worked like the +bluejackets always do—with all their heart and soul. I might go on +discoursing on these incidents of bygone days, but as Mr. H. E. Levy, +one of the pioneer firemen, has promised to add to this imperfect +account, I shall leave the fires and say something of the firemen. I +would draw the attention of my readers to the picture of a May Day +parade in 1862. It is the Union Hook and Ladder Company, drawn up on +Bastion Square with their truck.</p> + + +<h4 class="sc">The Pioneer Engines.</h4> + +<p>(By H. E. Levy.)</p> + +<p>"First in order comes the Union Hook and Ladder Company, a very swell +affair, composed of the leading merchants of the city, sixty-five +strong. They were first located on the present site of the Board of +Trade building, then removing to Government Street to the spot on +which now stands the new Promis building. Next came the Deluge Engine +Company, No. 1, who ran a very cumbrous Hunneman tub, made in Boston, +afterwards securing a Merryweather steam engine from England. This +company also consisted of sixty-five men, and were first located +about where the Poodle Dog now stands, moving thence to that point on +Yates Street now occupied by the Maynard shoe store, again moving to +their own building on the north side of Yates Street east of Broad. +Next comes the Tiger Engine Company, No. 21, first located on Johnson +Street, next to where the Jubilee saloon now stands, and afterwards <span class="pagenum">p.98</span> +moving to the north side of Johnson, just above Government. This +company commenced business with an old double-decker that was brought +up from San Francisco by the Hudson’s Bay Company, and was there +known as Telegraph No. 1. This machine was very similar to the one +brought here last summer by the San Francisco veterans; it was +succeeded later by an up-to-date ‘Button and Blake’ hand engine, +and still later by a fine steamer from the same firm. These three +companies were very effective and presented a fine appearance in +their semi-military uniforms, as they turned out in full force on +their gala day, the first of May.</p> + +<p>"On the arrival of the steam fire engines, six of the younger members +of each company were taught to manage the same, and soon became +proficient as engineers. Each company sent three members to the board +of delegates, who made laws for the entire department. Whether owing +to good luck or good management, we had very few large fires in those +days, the most notable being the Rosedale store, owned by Reid and +McDonald, on the north-east corner of Bastion and Wharf Streets; the +Sam Price warehouse, then used as a lodging-house, opposite the +Occidental Hotel—this fire brought out for the first time the Tiger +steam engine, with Mr. H. E. Levy (one of the engineer class) at the +throttle. Another large fire not to be overlooked was the Hotel de +France on Government Street, nearly opposite Bastion. It is a notable +fact that a great number of the most efficient heads of the +department were nearly all Americans, viz., John Dickson, S. L. +Kelly, John C. Keenan, Charles Brooks, J. A. McCrea, James Drummond, +and many others, who no doubt are still remembered by the old-timers. +There was a strong spirit of emulation <span class="pagenum">p.99</span> between the companies, +which added greatly to their efficiency, each striving to be first at +the fire, as it was considered an honor to have first water on the +same. At the tap of the fire alarm men could be seen running from all +quarters to the engine-houses, as the first man at the engine-house +had the honor of carrying the pipe into the fire, which was a +position of some danger."</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.100</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov10">CHAPTER X.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">A SIBERIAN MAMMOTH.</p> + +<p>Some four or five years ago I came across an American illustrated +newspaper containing an account of the discovery of a perfect mammoth +in Siberia, where it had been imbedded in a glacier for thousands of +years. It was stated that an expedition had been sent from St. +Petersburg by the Imperial Academy of Sciences, headed by Dr. Herz; +also that later a telegram had been received stating the expedition +had been successful in securing the animal complete, and that all the +principal parts, including even part of the contents of the stomach, +had been secured and were being brought on sledges overland for +thousands of miles. I was intensely interested in the alleged +discovery, and made many enquiries of various people to find out if +there was anything in it more than sensation such as is often got +from some of the American papers. The result of my enquiries was very +disappointing; most of those I interviewed considered it a yarn. I +let the matter rest for some time and then decided to write a friend +in St. Petersburg for particulars. Mrs. Calthorpe (<i>née</i> +Dunsmuir), wife of Captain Gough-Calthorpe, who was naval attaché to +the British Legation at the time, responded in due course of time, +sending me a photo (Since lost.—E. F.), reproduced herewith, of the +animal as it appeared stuffed in the Imperial Museum, and the promise +of a description, which Mr. Norman, secretary of the legation, <span class="pagenum">p.101</span> had +kindly promised to translate from the Russian for me. This has lately +come to hand, and as Mr. Norman states, is rather disappointing—that +is, as regards the size of the mammoth, it being a young one. The +wonderful part of the story is that the stomach of the mammoth +contained food as fresh as the day it was eaten thousands of years +ago. The food seems to have been young shoots of a species of pine +tree, with vegetable matter. The hair on its back was about 13 inches +long, with a thick fur at the roots of the hair. I submit the +translated account by Mr. Norman, with his letter to me, which I +think will be interesting to the many friends of the two British +Columbia ladies mentioned therein. I also give an account of the +expedition as contained in the newspapers at the time of discovery, +as follows:</p> + +<h4 class="sc">Story of the Scientific Expedition.</h4> + +<p>"The discovery of the mammoth to which the cable despatch on this +page refers, was reported during the summer, and has excited the +widest interest in scientific circles.</p> + +<p>"A very interesting account of the discovery by Dr. von Adelung, +curator of the museum of the Imperial Academy of Sciences at St. +Petersburg, has just appeared in the <i>Globus</i>, a leading German +scientific paper, of Brunswick.</p> + +<p>"From this account it appears that the mammoth was first reported by +a Cossack named Jawlowsky. He found it in a glacier near the +Beresowka River, a tributary of the Kolyma River, in far Northeastern +Siberia. The nearest settlement is Sredne Kolymsk, three hundred +versts (a verst is 3,500 yards) away.</p> + +<p>"The situation of the body is a very extraordinary <span class="pagenum">p.102</span> one. +It lies in an enormous pocket of ice, between the mountains, near +the river bank. The ice is evidently the relic of the great glacier +that existed here in former ages. The upper ice in time flowed away, +leaving only the lower part shut up in this pocket. The River +Beresowka only thaws for a short time in summer. The surface of +the earth in this region also thaws only at this season, and then +only to a depth of two or three feet. Beneath that the soil is +eternally frozen.</p> + +<p>"A slight melting of the surface of the ice left a bright, smooth +space, peering through which the Cossack Jawlowsky saw the ancient +mammoth preserved, as we sometimes see a lobster in a cake of ice. +The Cossack knew how interesting such relics were to civilized men +and promptly reported this one.</p> + +<p>"Through the agency of Mr. Horn, the Chief of Police of Kolymsk, the +Cossack’s report was conveyed to the Governor of Yakutsk. He being +interested in scientific matters, promptly communicated the report to +the Imperial Academy of Sciences at St. Petersburg.</p> + +<p>"The greatest scientific undertaking of this kind ever made was then +determined upon. This was nothing less than an expedition to bring +back the complete body of the mammoth. It was promptly organized by +the Imperial Academy, with the fullest assistance of the government +and the Ministry of Finance. Dr. Otto Herz, curator of the Imperial +Museum, was appointed leader of the expedition, with Dr. Pfitzenmayer +as assistant.</p> + +<p>"The expedition proceeded along the Trans-Siberian railroad as far as +Irkutsk. From there to the place of the discovery is a journey by +land and water of fully 3,000 miles. The scientists made part of this +journey in boats down the Lena River to Jakutsk. They then <span class="pagenum">p.103</span> +started on an overland journey to Sredne Kolymsk. They took fifty +horses for transport. A large part of the way lay through virgin +forest. Then came the formation called the Taiga, a sort of Arctic +moorland, which becomes swampy and dangerous in summer.</p> + +<p>"The scientists had to live on salt fish, mare’s milk and stewed tree +bark. Several lives were lost on the journey, but it is now known +that the chief scientists reached their destination. They proceeded +without delay to excavate the mammoth.</p> + +<p>"The flesh is treated with arsenic and then sewn up in new cowhide, +which shrinks, becomes air-tight and preserves the contents.</p> + +<p>"Nothing more will probably be heard from the scientists during the +present winter. Dr. Herz, according to the last report, was in doubt +as to which of two ways he will take in returning. He may, during the +coming summer, endeavor to take the mammoth’s remains overland to +Markova, a little settlement on the Anadyr River, which runs into +Behring Sea. There he would winter and go down the river at the +opening of next summer, and catch the steamship that calls there once +a year.</p> + +<p>"If this proves impracticable, he will have to wait until the winter +of 1902–1903, and take the remains overland by sledges to Irkutsk. It +would be impossible to make this tremendous journey in summer, +through a roadless country, where there are thousands of square miles +of swamps.</p> + +<p>"Numerous relics of mammoths have been discovered in Siberia, +including pieces of skin, and all the bones. On more than one +occasion a complete animal has been found preserved in the ice, +but a complete animal has never been secured in its entirety and <span class="pagenum">p.104</span> +brought back to civilization. That is exactly what the Imperial +Academy of Sciences now proposes to do. According to the last report +from Irkutsk, it is in a fair way to accomplish this.</p> + +<p>"It is, perhaps, one of the most marvellous facts in the whole realm +of nature that the body of a mammoth should be preserved exactly as +it existed in life thousands and thousands of years ago, but there is +every reason to believe that this happened in countless cases.</p> + +<p>"The mammoth was a gigantic species of extinct elephant. It +flourished in past geological ages, and also survived into the days +of early man. When the Palæolithic or Old Stone man flourished on +earth two hundred thousand years ago, the mammoth was as common as +the horse to-day. In no part of the world were mammoths more abundant +than in Northern Siberia. They must have roamed about there as freely +as the buffalo did in North America fifty years ago.</p> + +<p>"Though similar in structure to the modern elephant, the mammoth was +very different in habits. He was a northern animal, and with this in +view was provided with a very long, thick hair, reddish in color, +like that of the camel. He had extraordinary teeth and stomach, so +that he was able to masticate and digest, not only plants, leaves and +so forth, but wood and the trunks of trees. His stomach has been +found full of young fir trees. His teeth were built in layers and +renewed themselves ceaselessly through life.</p> + +<p>"Sometimes the mammoth would become mired in a soft spot of earth, +and there sink in, die, become frozen and preserved forever. Another +mammoth, while walking across a glacier, would fall into a crevasse, +and there become frozen in a gigantic block of ice. That is what +happened in the case of the animal <span class="pagenum">p.105</span> recently discovered in +Siberia. The soil is generally frozen to a depth of four hundred +feet in Northern Siberia.</p> + +<p>"There were many species of mammoths, some of them existing in +earlier ages than others. One species was provided with four tusks, +the upper ones turning up as in the present elephant, and the lower +turning down, as in the walrus. These horns were of gigantic size, in +some cases measuring twelve feet long. They were adapted principally +to digging up and pulling down trees. The mastodon was a giant +elephant of a still earlier period than the mammoth.</p> + +<p>"In spite of their gigantic size and weapons, the mammoths were +frequently killed by prehistoric men. These men must have been very +brave and determined to kill these huge and terribly armed beasts, +with stone and rude wood and bone spears.</p> + +<p>"The very word ‘mammoth’ is of Siberian Tartar origin, being derived +from the word ‘mammoth,’ the earth, on account of the beast being +found frozen in the earth. Chinese records show that they, too, +frequently discovered the frozen mammoths. The beast is probably the +same as the ‘Behemoth’ of the Bible.</p> + +<p>"The bones of the mammoth when first discovered in Europe were +variously regarded as the remains of giant men and of elephants that +had been brought to Europe by the ancient Romans. Even the majority +of scientists held to this opinion until Sir Richard Owen, the great +palæontologist, first proved that they were the remains of an extinct +animal allied to, but of different species from, the elephant.</p> + +<p>"One of the first mammoths described by modern scientists was found +on the peninsula of Tamut, near the Lena River, in 1799. It was fully +enclosed in a <span class="pagenum">p.106</span> mass of clear ice. It was uncovered and rotted away +in 1804."</p> + +<h4 class="sc">Mr. Norman’s Letter.</h4> + +<p>The following is a copy of Mr. Norman’s letter:</p> + +<p style="text-align:center;">"British Embassy, St. Petersburg,</p> +<p class="dateline">"Dec. 24, 1904.</p> + +<p>"Dear Sir,—Before leaving St. Petersburg, Mrs. Gough-Calthorpe, wife +of our late naval attaché, asked me to send you some information +about the stuffed mammoth which is in the Zoological Museum here, as +you were interested in such things, and I promised to translate the +passage in the catalogue which refers to the animal.</p> + +<p>"The revolution which has been raging here for the last few months +has given me so much to do I really have not had time to keep my +promise sooner. However, I now send you the translation, which, I +fear, tells disappointingly little about the mammoth, giving no +measurements nor any description of his appearance. The earlier part, +too, about the distribution of the elephant family, is doubtless also +stale news to you.</p> + +<p>"You have, I believe, already received a photograph of him from Mrs. +Calthorpe, so you know what he looks like, but as I have seen him +very often, I may add a few details as to his personal appearance +from my own observation. He is smaller than I expected—a good deal +smaller than an elephant, but then, it is true, he was young when he +died, not full grown, I suppose. His tusks are magnificent. His +hair is very thick, abundant and long and of a fashionable dark +reddish-brown tint. Otherwise he is very like an elephant in <span class="pagenum">p.107</span> +general build, and I should say, so far as I can judge without +being a specialist, in details also.</p> + +<p>"I hope these few details may be of use to you. Should you want more +about the mammoth, or require information about anything else in the +museum here, I shall be very glad to do my best to satisfy you.</p> + +<p>"The Calthorpes are much regretted by all of us here, as they were +greatly beloved by us. Curiously enough, the wife of Calthorpe’s +successor, Captain Victor Stanley, also comes from British Columbia.</p> + +<p class="sig" style="padding-right:4em;">"Yours very truly,</p> + +<p class="sig sc" style="padding-right:2em;">"H. Norman.</p> + +<p class="sig">"Secretary to His Majesty’s Embassy.</p> + +<p>"I send this by King’s messenger as far as London, which will still +further delay it, but the posts are now very irregular and unsafe in +Russia owing to the revolutionary strikes. H. N."</p> + +<h4 class="sc">Translation from Catalogue.</h4> + +<p>"During the tertiary period elephants were very numerous and were +distributed over Europe, Asia as far as the Arctic Ocean, North +America and Africa. By the remains excavated, many species of extinct +elephants are now distinguished, among which one, known under the +name of Mammoth (<i>Elephas Primigenius</i>), existed in immense +numbers in Europe and in Siberia as far as its most northern limits. +In Siberia the frozen bodies of these animals have frequently been +found well preserved, with the skin and flesh. On account of the +remoteness of the places where these bodies have been found, not all +the expeditions sent to <span class="pagenum">p.108</span> exhume them have had a successful issue. +In this connection the most successful of all was that organized by the +Academy of Sciences in 1901 to the River Berezovka, in the Yakutsk +district, which consisted of Messrs. O. F. Herz and E. W. <a id="emen4">Pfitzenmayer.</a> +Thanks to this expedition an excellent specimen of the mammoth was +received by the Academy of Sciences,—rather young, with skin, parts +of the internal organs, some food and almost the whole skeleton. +Unfortunately some of the soft parts of the body, such as the trunk, +were not found. The remains of this mammoth made it possible not only +to set up the skeleton, but to stuff the animal, which is placed in the +position in which it died, suddenly, in all probability, and in which +it was found in a frozen condition."</p> + +<p>This story can hardly be called a "reminiscence" of Victoria, but I +thought that it might be interesting to many who, like myself, have a +liking for old and ancient things, as this mammoth most assuredly +was. Also there may be an interest taken in the letter from Mr. +Norman, the secretary to H.M. Embassy, speaking as it does of one who +formerly was a resident and native-born of British Columbia.—E. F.</p> + + +<p class="pagenum">p.109</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov11">CHAPTER XI.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">MRS. EDWIN DONALD, HON. WYMOND HAMLEY, HON. G. A. WALKEM.</p> + +<h4 class="sc">Mrs. Edwin Donald.</h4> + +<p>"I have fought a good fight, I have finished my course, I have kept +the faith."—Timothy 4:7, 8. Never was there one to whom these words +could be applied with greater truth than to the subject of this +sketch. A faithful servant of her Lord, she was always ready to say a +good word for Him, and took advantage of any and all opportunities to +bring back to Him some friend whom she thought had become careless, +thoughtless, or indifferent in His service.</p> + +<p>I am sure my old friend admonished me many a time during our +forty-six years of close friendship, but always in the most kindly +manner, that could not help impressing me, knowing it was well meant, +and knowing also that she considered it her duty to say what she did.</p> + +<p>It was in February, 1859, as a boy of twelve, just arrived from San +Francisco, that I first met her. She and her husband had lately +arrived from Wisconsin, U.S., where they had been living some years, +and, having a sister here already, she had been induced to come to +her. Her sister, herself and their husbands had all come from +Cornwall. The elder sister and her husband (Trounce) had emigrated to +Van Diemen’s Land, <span class="pagenum">p.110</span> as Tasmania was then called; the Trounces +later on went to San Francisco, and from there came to Victoria, in +the same steamer as my father, in 1858.</p> + +<p>The Trounces and Donalds lived in tents on Douglas Street in 1858, +and when our family arrived in 1859 they had just moved into what was +then considered a very handsome house. It now stands on Kane Street, +between Douglas and Blanchard.</p> + +<p>Like Dorcas of Joppa, "she was full of good works and alms deeds." +The two sisters, with their husbands, were Wesleyan Methodists, and +Mrs. Donald, although eighty-eight years of age, attended church +twice on Sunday, and always walked both ways, to the Metropolitan +Church on Pandora Street. This she did to the end, having gone twice +the last Sunday. She did not believe in Sunday cars, and would not +use them, although they would have been such a help to her; but no, +she thought it wrong, so took the course she thought was right. My +wife and I called on her about ten days before her death, and on +asking her how she was she replied, "I am as well as can be expected, +for I am an old woman, you know." She was as cheerful as usual. She +never complained; everything was for the best, she thought.</p> + +<p>And so it was in her case, for she was near her end, "having fought a +good fight and finished her course." She died literally in harness, +for an hour or so before she breathed her last, she was working for +the church, propped up in bed sewing. Towards the end, being +conscious, she said, "I think my Lord wants me," and so passed away +to a better life. She was attended at her death by an affectionate +niece, Miss Carrie Thomas; her other relatives being Mrs. Thomas and +Mrs. Morall.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.111</p> + +<h4 class="sc">Hon. Wymond Hamley.</h4> + +<div class="imgright" id="img20"> +<img width="260" height="452" src="images/vi20.jpg" alt="[Portrait: Wymond Hamley.]" /> +</div> + +<p>The late collector of customs, under whom I was privileged to serve +from 1882 to 1900, was appointed by Sir Edward B. Lytton as collector +of customs of New Westminster, and arrived by sailing vessel in 1859.</p> + +<p>After the union of the mainland and island in 1867, the collector, +with his staff, came down to Victoria and established the customs +house on Government Street in a wooden structure near the post-office +of that day, and it was a very unpretentious affair.</p> + +<p>His staff of that time, and who were with him at New Westminster, was +composed of Mr. Macrae, who in 1872 was pensioned on account of +defective eyesight, and is now living in Ireland, chief clerk; +Charles S. Finlaison (afterwards chief clerk), George Frye, C. S. +Wylde and Richard Hunter. All of these, except Mr. Macrae, are dead. +Mr. Hamley was the last of three brothers, and all of us have heard +of the youngest, Sir Edward, the hero of Tel el Kebir, who, with his +eldest brother, were generals in the British army. Sir Edward was a +noted tactician, and it was through this he became the hero of Tel el +Kebir. He was prominent in the Imperial Parliament also as a speaker. +The elder brother I heard little of from him, but I know he was very +proud of his younger brother.</p> + +<p>The late collector was in early life in the British civil service, +and subsequently joined the navy, and served on the China station. I +shall always have a kindly feeling for my late chief, as he was a +good friend to me, and felt kindly disposed to me, by the many +conversations we had together. He was a just man in all his dealings +with the public, and treated all alike without fear or favor, and his +decisions were, as a rule, always <span class="pagenum">p.112</span> upheld at Ottawa. There also +could not have been a more popular man with his staff.</p> + +<p>So one by one the good old stock of the early pioneers passes away, +and their places will be hard to fill, so I say "<i>Requiescat in pace</i>."</p> + +<h4 class="sc">Hon. G. A. Walkem.</h4> + +<p>As a friend of over forty years, I should like to add a few lines to +what has been said of the late Mr. Walkem. Some forty-two years ago I +was going up Yates Street, past Wells Fargo’s bank and express, which +then occupied the brick building on the south side just above the +American Hotel and next Pierson’s tinware store. It was steamer day, +and Yates Street was full of life, as it always was when the San +Francisco steamer had just arrived with passengers, freight, mails +and express.</p> + +<p>The latter was the more important in those days. The chief business +was done with San Francisco, and the most of the letters came by +express, costing twenty-five cents each, from San Francisco. As I +said before, I was passing Wells Fargo’s. The large front office was +open to the street and was full of business men and others. The staff +of the express consisted of Colonel Pendergast, Major Gillingham (who +introduced quail from California), and a colored man named Miller, as +messenger.</p> + +<p>What attracted my attention was "George Anthony Walkem," called in a +loud voice. I stopped and squeezed inside, where there was a scene +that never will be enacted again in this city, I think, in the way of +business. Major Gillingham was unlocking express bags and cutting +open bundles of letters, which he <span class="pagenum">p.113</span> handed to Colonel Pendergast, +who was mounted on a chair and calling out the addresses on the +letters. If the addressee was there he called out "Here," and the +letter was handed across the room to where he stood, or if not there, +was taken by a friend. After all the letters had been called, the +audience trooped out and went to their offices to peruse their +correspondence.</p> + +<p>"George Anthony Walkem" on this occasion was not there and did not +answer to his name, but the letter was put in the letter-rack to be +delivered by Miller, the messenger. This occasion is vivid in my +memory, as if of yesterday, and is the first time I remember Mr. +Walkem.</p> + +<p>It was a couple of years after that I met him at a dance, and we +became friends, and met at many home dances and parties. He was a +young lawyer and fond of the society of young people, although older +than they were. In those days dancing was one of our chief +amusements, classes being formed under the direction of some lady. +They were very enjoyable, being kept select. The ladies having the +two principal classes were Mrs. Digby Palmer and Mrs. J. H. +Carmichael. I belonged to each, and met Mr. Walkem often. The +principal thing I wished to speak of with respect to my friend was +his gift of animal drawing, he being no mean follower of Sir Edwin +Landseer.</p> + +<p>This I found out as a great surprise one day while visiting him at +his rooms over Hibben & Co.’s store. The walls were plastered, and +white, and all over were covered with animals and portraits of noted +characters of the day done with a crayon pencil. These portraits were +of such men as Judge Begbie, the Governor, an admiral of the station, +or some noted politician.</p> + +<p>But what took my fancy most of all were his lions, <span class="pagenum">p.114</span> male and +female and cubs, and in all positions. It was a sight well worth +seeing, and would so be considered to-day.</p> + +<p>Long after Mr. Walkem left these rooms these walls were left intact, +and many schemes were devised to remove the pictures with the walls. +A prominent man, I think Admiral Farquhar, asked my brother if it +were possible to cut the plaster off the studding in blocks and so +preserve these beautiful pictures. I am sorry to say it proved to be +impossible.</p> + +<p>To-day there are reproductions of these pictures in the judge’s +residence. They were framed in gilt by us, and it is only a year or +so since I saw them in Sommer’s being reframed. I recognized them +immediately.</p> + +<p>He was pleased to compliment me some time ago on one of my sketches +of early Victoria, a subject we compared notes on frequently, when I +suggested that he give to his friends some of his early experiences +in Cariboo, which he recited to me, telling of those days when he +started off from Victoria a young man, with a good profession, lots +of energy, a fund of good humor, and not a very heavy purse. He had +his experiences, and valuable experiences they were, and in Cariboo +he entered into politics, and for years represented that constituency +in the Local House. He was a good friend, and I shall miss his visits +to my office, when he came in to chat for a few minutes, always to +wind up with a "reminiscence." Well, as I said before, I shall miss +him and shall remember him with the most kindly feelings.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.115</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov12">CHAPTER XII.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">THE CONSECRATION OF THE IRON CHURCH.</p> + +<p>Old-timers will be interested in the following clipping giving +particulars of the consecration of St. John’s Church. The year is not +given, but it was in 1860 (April 13th). It was when first built a +very ugly building, having no semblance of a tower, which was added +many years after. The first rector was Rev. R. J. Dundas, M.A. Of the +clergy who took part fifty years ago, there are, I think, only three +living, viz., Rev. Edward Cridge, now Bishop Cridge; Rev. J. +Sheepshanks, now Bishop of Norwich, and the Rev. Alexander Garrett, +now Bishop of Dallas, Texas. Of the bishops then present, both are +dead. Bishop Morris, of Oregon, who preached the consecration sermon, +died a few years ago, aged eighty-seven, the oldest bishop in the +United States; and Bishop Hills died in England soon after he left +this country, having resigned the bishopric of British Columbia, a +very disappointed man. Strange to say, he took a rectorship under one +of his former clergy, Rev. J. Sheepshanks, Bishop of Norwich.</p> + +<p>It will be noted that the hymn-books used at the service were to be +obtained at Hibben & Carswell’s (T. N. Hibben & Co.). To close the +consecration services there was to be a social gathering or +tea-meeting, which was a popular form of entertainment in those good +old days. The admission was one dollar, and the proceedings commenced +at half-past six o’clock. Just <span class="pagenum">p.116</span> think of it, ye late birds of the +later days, when half-past eight is not too late! As the choir of +Christ Church assisted at these services, and as I was a choir-boy, +I must have been there.</p> + +<p>The printed programme reads: "The consecration of the Church of St. +John the Evangelist is fixed for Thursday next, 13th inst. The solemn +occasion will be marked by a series of services, at which a voluntary +choir will contribute their assistance, aided by the fine organ just +erected. It is also intended to hold meetings, one of which meetings +will organize the Diocesan Church Society, and the other draw +together in a social way the friends of religion, and the +well-wishers of the Church of England. It is earnestly hoped that +these various occasions may tend to strengthen the best influences +amongst us, and advance substantially the work of the Lord.</p> + +<p>"The following is the order of services:</p> + +<p>"Thursday, September 13th, in the morning, consecration service at 11 +a.m. Sermon by the Bishop of Oregon.</p> + +<p>"The Holy Communion will be administered.</p> + +<p>"In the evening service at 7 p.m. Sermon by the Bishop of Columbia.</p> + +<p>"Friday, September 21st, service at 11 a.m. Sermon by the Rev. E. +Willis (rector of St. John’s, Olympia).</p> + +<p>"Evening service at 7 p.m. Sermon by the Rev. W. D. Crickmer, M.A., +minister of Fort Yale.</p> + +<p>"Sunday, September 16th, morning service at 11 a.m. Sermon by the +Bishop of Columbia.</p> + +<p>"Afternoon service at 3 p.m. Sermon by the Rev. E. Cridge, B.A., +minister of Christ Church.</p> + +<p>"Evening service at 6.30. Sermon by the Bishop of Oregon.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.117</p> + +<p>"Tuesday, September 18th, evening service at 7 p.m. Sermon by the +Rev. J. Sheepshanks, M.A., minister of New Westminster.</p> + +<p>"Friday, September 21st, evening service at 7 p.m. Sermon by Rev. +Alex. C. Garrett, B.A.</p> + +<p>"Sunday, September 23rd, morning service at 11 a.m. Sermon by the +Bishop of Columbia.</p> + +<p>"Afternoon service at 3 p.m. Sermon by Rev. Charles T. Woods, M.A., +principal of Collegiate School.</p> + +<p>"Evening service at 6.30 p.m. Sermon by Rev. R. J. Dundas, M.A., +minister of St. John’s.</p> + +<p>"Collections will be made after all services towards the debt still +on the church.</p> + +<p>"On Monday evening, September 17th, a meeting will be held in +Collegiate School-room at 7 o’clock, to arrange and constitute the +Columbia and Vancouver Diocesan Society, according to the plan +adopted in the colonies of Great Britain.</p> + +<p>"Addresses will be delivered. All friends of the Church of England +are invited to attend.</p> + +<p>"The chair will be taken by the Bishop of Columbia.</p> + +<p>"On Thursday, September 20th, there will be held a social reunion of +friends, when subjects of interest connected with social organization +will be discussed. Admission by ticket, one dollar each. Tea will be +provided. Proceedings to commence at 6.30 p.m."</p> + +<p>The following communication from a gentleman who did his part in +church work in this island in early days will interest many readers. +Extract from the <i>Union</i>, London, December 7th, 1860:</p> + +<p>"A correspondent in Vancouver Island sends an interesting account of +the first consecration of a church in that far-off colony by the +Bishop of Columbia. It is situated at Victoria and is dedicated to +St. John the <span class="pagenum">p.118</span> Evangelist. It is of wood, encased with corrugated +iron plates, lined and panelled inside with redwood. It was sent from +England by the bishop, and placed by him at the disposal of the +people of Victoria, where a second church was needed. The interior, +which is stained dark with the fittings, is extremely tasteful. There +is a beautiful carved stone font, given by a late parishioner of the +bishop’s; a fine organ, also a gift; a bell, altar cloth, and east +light of stained glass. The consecration took place on September +13th. There was a numerous congregation, including clerical and +lay representatives of the Anglo-American Church, who came from +Washington Territory. The bishop and clergy robed in the vestry, and +a procession being formed they proceeded round the church to the west +entrance, where the bishop was received by the Rev. Edward Cridge, +B.A., the incumbent of Christ Church, his church wardens and a +committee of laymen, the chief promoters of the work. The petition, +praying to consecrate the church, having been presented, the bishop +signified his assent and proceeded up the centre aisle, followed by +the clergy, the church wardens and committee following. The 24th +Psalm was recited by the bishop and clergy as they proceeded up the +church. The bishop took his seat within the altar rails attended by +his clergy in the north choir seats, the service being full choral, +and the effect very marked. It was, indeed, a privilege to join in +such a service ten thousand miles from home. The communion service +was said by the bishop, the epistle was read by the Rev. D. E. +Willis, the Gospel by Rev. J. Sheepshanks. The bishop preached from +Matt. 26:8, 9, subject, "Works of Faith and Love." The offering +amounted to $358."</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img21"> +<img width="536" height="279" src="images/vi21.jpg" alt="[Illustration: Iron Church.]" /> +</div> + +<p class="pagenum">p.119</p> + +<h4 class="sc">The Jubilee of St. John’s.</h4> + +<p>Certain misleading remarks having been made at the jubilee of St. +John’s with respect to Christ Church not having been consecrated for +long after being built, and that it was a log building, etc., I, +after getting facts from Bishop Cridge and an early resident who +attended its opening, replied:</p> + +<blockquote> +<p>"<i>To the Editor of the Colonist</i>:</p> + +<p>"In reviewing the rather interesting article in Sunday’s +<i>Colonist</i> on the jubilee of St. John’s Church, which contained +a deal I had already given some years ago, I noted particularly the +reference to the first Christ Church, and thought I could throw a +little light on the matter, especially after a conversation with an +early resident who attended the first service in the church in 1856. +The original building that was destroyed by fire was named ‘Christ +Church’ by Bishop Cridge, after Christ Church in London, of which he +was incumbent up to the time of his leaving for Vancouver Island in +1855.</p> + +<p>"After Mr. Cridge had been established here as resident minister and +chaplain to Hudson’s Bay Company, Governor Douglas had Christ Church +built for him, and when the congregation had increased, Mr. Cridge +wrote to the Bishop of London, telling him that there were twenty +candidates for confirmation, and asking him what he (Mr. Cridge) +should do under the circumstances. In reply Mr. Cridge was advised to +write to Bishop Scott of Oregon, asking him to come to Victoria and +confirm them. This was done, and Bishop Scott came.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.120</p> + +<p>"Thus took place the first confirmation on Vancouver Island, and in +this ‘unconsecrated church.’ The church is spoken of as being built +of logs. This is not so, as it was a frame structure, weather-boarded +on the outside, and lathed and plastered on the inside, with a stone +foundation.</p> + +<p>"The church had a low tower like a dove-cot with two bells. +Altogether it was a pretty church. The building was put up by William +Leigh, an official of the company, under the superintendency of Hon. +J. D. Pemberton, who drew the plans and was architect. It was opened +first for public worship in August, 1856, prior to which services +were held in the fort. Later on, as the gold rush from California +took place, and thousands came to Victoria, Mr. Cridge, being +overworked, he (Mr. Cridge) wrote to England to the Church and School +Society, asking for help. As a result of this appeal, St. John’s +Church was sent out by Miss Burdett-Coutts.</p> + +<p>"I might further state that the Catholic Church was established here +prior to the arrival of Mr. Cridge, and for some time services under +Bishop Demers were held in the bishop’s residence until a church was +erected. This pioneer of Catholic churches is still in existence, +having been moved from Humboldt Street south and east of St. Joseph’s +Hospital to the rear of St. Ann’s Convent, being there encased in +brick. As before stated, I was at the laying of the corner-stone of +St. John’s Church in 1860, as also was Mr. Alexander Wilson, of Broad +Street, and we both remember the occasion, especially the music by +the fine band of H.M.S. <i>Sutlej</i>. I might here state that what I +have said has been to throw a little more light on an interesting +subject."</p> +</blockquote> + +<p class="pagenum">p.121</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov13">CHAPTER XIII.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">THE IRON CHURCH AGAIN.</p> + +<p>Miss Woods, daughter of the late Sheriff Woods, and niece of the late +Archdeacon, has handed me the original notice in the handwriting of +the late Rev. R. J. Dundas, first rector of St. John’s, of the laying +of the corner-stone of the St. John’s Church, reading: "The +corner-stone of St. John’s Church will be laid by His Excellency the +Governor (James Douglas), on Friday, the 13th April, at 3 o’clock +p.m., 1860." This makes it over forty-six years old. The ceremony was +performed on a beautiful spring afternoon. A procession was formed at +the residence of Captain Dodds (which, by the by, is still standing), +and marched to the site of the church. The magnificent band of H.M.S. +<i>Sutlej</i> (a line-of-battleship), furnished the music for the +occasion. No flagship in later days has had such a band, for size or +excellence. My memory in this particular has been refreshed by a +fellow-pioneer in Mr. Alexander Wilson, who also attended the +ceremony. I might state that the oldest church building at the +present time is the Roman Catholic, which used to stand on Humboldt +street, and was later removed to the rear of St. Ann’s Convent and +built around with brick. This church antedates even St. John’s, as I +can remember it in 1859. In connection with this old church I have +heard some fine singing, when Father Brabant, of the West Coast, was +connected with the <span class="pagenum">p.122</span> church, who was a fine baritone; also Madame +Beckingham, then a Miss Tissett, Mrs. Fellows and Charles Lombard. +It was a musical treat indeed. There were other good singers there, +but these were notable, and they are all alive to-day.</p> + +<div class="imgright" id="img22"> +<img width="261" height="434" src="images/vi22.jpg" alt="[Portrait: Bishop Garrett.]" /> +</div> + +<h4 class="sc">Bishop Garrett.</h4> + +<p>In connection with the above I have received from Bishop Garrett, who +was present on the occasion as Rev. A. C. Garrett, a very nice letter +with his photo, which I think may be of interest to those who +remember this eloquent divine of the pioneer days of Victoria, and +who is to-day Bishop of Dallas, Texas:</p> + +<p class="dateline">"Dallas, Texas, August 9th, 1906.</p> + +<p>"Dear Mr. Fawcett:</p> + +<p>"Your letter is here and has my most willing attention. I remember +your father very well, and yourself, too. I also remember the iron +church and the old cathedral on the hill very well. I also remember +an incident which was amusing, in the iron church. Once the great +archdeacon preached a flowery sermon in St. John’s in the morning. +The evening sermon was preached by the Rev. C. T. Woods, who was out +in the morning at a mission station. The archdeacon occupied a pew at +the evening service. When the text was given out he pricked up his +ears and sat up very straight. The opening sentence was the same as +that of the morning; and so was the next and the next, even to the +last! Some of those who had been present in the morning and had +complimented the Ven. Archdeacon upon his eloquence, began to smile +and nudged each other. At last the end came. The Ven. Archdeacon <span class="pagenum">p.123</span> +went into the vestry, where some of the morning flatterers were +repeating their forenoon praises! At length they left, bursting +with laughter. Then the archdeacon said: ‘I see that we two donkeys +have been eating the same cabbage!’</p> + +<p>"I remember also preaching in that church when the wind howled and +rattled through the roof in such a way that nothing could be heard.</p> + +<p>"Well, you are all greatly changed now—and so am I. Mrs. Garrett is +still vigorous, and I am doing a full day’s work every day in the +year.</p> + +<p class="sig" style="padding-right:4em;">"Affectionately yours,</p> + +<p class="sig sc" style="padding-right:2em;">"Alex. C. Garrett,</p> +<p class="sig">"Bishop of Dallas."</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.124</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov14">CHAPTER XIV.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">ITS DEPARTED GLORIES, OR ESQUIMALT, THEN AND NOW.</p> + +<p>The other day I had occasion to go through the town of Esquimalt, to +the end of the principal street, which runs north and south. It was +to the north end I went to take a boat to board the cable-ship +<i>Restorer</i> to see my son off for Honolulu.</p> + +<p>I had not been on this spot, that I can remember, for thirty years, +and I could not but stop and stare and wonder. Could this be the +Esquimalt I used to know years ago?</p> + +<p>I could not but conjure up memories of the past, of Esquimalt’s +departed greatness, bustle and busy life. In 1858, and before my +time, this was the British Columbia headquarters of the San Francisco +steamers, as well as the headquarters of the navy. Of the latter +there were always three or four vessels with nearly always a +flagship, and such a ship! It seemed like climbing up a hillside as +you passed tier after tier of guns, and finally reached the upper +deck.</p> + +<p>The steamers running from San Francisco in those days were large +also, so large that they could not come into Victoria harbor, and the +<i>Panama</i>, I see by the <i>Colonist</i> of that date, brought +1,200 passengers on one trip.</p> + +<p>Well, to proceed. As I walked down the street I <span class="pagenum">p.125</span> turned from side +to side, trying to remember who lived in that house, and who in that +one, in the days that have gone by. Oh! what desolation! What ruin +and decay! Only about every fourth house was occupied—the others +given over to the dull echoes of the past. I looked in several +windows and saw nothing but emptiness, dust and decay.</p> + +<p>Of the notable houses and notable people who formed the population of +this once important town, there were the residences of Fred. +Williams, a prominent Mason and Speaker of the Legislature; William +Arthur, William Sellick and John Howard, hotel and saloon-keepers; +William Wilby, the mail carrier, with his numerous family; the +Millingtons and the Dodds. Of John Howard I have already written in +my description of an early-time Queen’s birthday celebration on +Beacon Hill. John was a great horse fancier, and owned some winners, +which were generally ridden by the Millington boys. John, with his +friend, Thomas Harris (first mayor of Victoria), and Captain the Hon. +Lascelles, R.N., were then kindred spirits, and many a day’s sport +they afforded to the public of Victoria.</p> + +<p>After reaching the end of the street and the landing, what did I see +of the bustle, business and life of forty-nine years ago—a small +forest of worm-eaten piles sticking up in the water in front of me. +They were the remains of a large dock which had been covered with +warehouses and offices connected with the shipping of the port. The +late Thomas Trounce, of this city, owned the property and managed it. +Imagine what the arrival of a large San Francisco steamer with 1,000 +or 1,500 passengers and 1,000 tons of freight on this dock meant? All +these passengers and all this freight <span class="pagenum">p.126</span> were for Victoria. +The freight was transferred to small steamers for this city, and +also carted up by road.</p> + +<p>We ourselves landed here from the steamer <i>Northerner</i> with six +hundred others in February, 1859, and came around to Victoria in a +small steamer and landed at the Hudson’s Bay Company’s wharf. There +were several stages plying also, the fare being "only one dollar." +The "’Squimalt" road of that day was not that of to-day. It branched +off the present Esquimalt Road at Admiral’s Road and ran eastward +parallel with the present road, climbing up a very steep grade before +reaching Lampson Street, and then keeping on straight till reaching +Craigflower Road. Then it branched into the present road again at +Everett’s Exchange. This great change in ’Squimalt has not taken +place in late years. The loss of the naval station lately does not +seem to have made a deal of difference to its appearance. It dates +back to the "wooden walls" of old England, and the appearance on the +scene of the ironclad of later years. Whatever was the cause, the +effect is there, and I suppose good reason could be found for the +great change. Melancholy it was to me, who had seen the place full of +life, jollity and laughter as bluejackets and scarlet-coated marines +by scores landed with plenty of money in their pockets, and maybe +three days to spend it in. They were soon on the road to Victoria, +stopping at the wayside houses as they jogged along, singing and +laughing like a lot of schoolboys let loose from school.</p> + +<p>On one of these occasions a laughable incident occurred, as scores of +these bluejackets and marines passed up Esquimalt Road. A squad or +more might have been seen walking along, headed by a bluejacket +playing a <span class="pagenum">p.127</span> lively tune on a fife or tin whistle. One or two were +dancing to the tune, when all at once the music stopped, as a halt +was made, the command being "’Alt all ’ands!" They had come opposite +a wayside house and the sign over the porch—<em class="sc">saloon</em>—had attracted +their attention. One of the sailors had commenced to spell out the +sign. "What’s this blooming sign say? A hess, and a hay and a hell +and a double ho, and a hen—saloon! Why blast my blooming h’eyes, +mates, it’s a blooming pub! All ’ands come in and take a drink," +and you may be sure "all ’ands" forthwith filed into the saloon and +"smiled," to use a Western phrase.</p> + +<div class="verse"> +<div class="stanza"> + <span class="i0">"For Jack’s the boy for work,</span><br /> + <span class="i0">And Jack’s the boy for play;</span><br /> + <span class="i0">And Jack’s the lad,</span><br /> + <span class="i0">When girls are sad,</span><br /> + <span class="i0">To kiss their tears away."</span></div> +</div> + +<p>These good old days of ’Squimalt, I am afraid, are gone for ever with +her prestige as a naval station taken from her. Shall we see her rise +again as a commercial port, as a headquarters of the C.P.R.? Shall +the echoes of commerce take the place of the echoes of Jack’s +laughter and song? Let us hope so, and so end my little reminiscences +of ’Squimalt’s early times.</p> + +<p>Since writing this I have come across a cutting in my scrap book from +the <i>Colonist</i> of May 17th, 1870, which gives the account of the +arrival of the first and only flying squadron (under Admiral Hornby), +which ever arrived here. By the by, we were promised flying squadrons +in lieu of stationary squadrons on this station. When is the first to +arrive? As there was a flagship here with two other vessels, at this +time, my readers <span class="pagenum">p.128</span> may imagine the number of men in Esquimalt +harbor at that date; not less than three thousand five hundred, I am +sure, and how lively this must have made Esquimalt and Victoria. The +whole population, figuratively speaking, turned out to welcome these +six vessels as they came in from Race Rocks under full sail. It was +a beautiful sight. The <i>Zealous</i> (armor-plated), Admiral Farquhar, +welcomed Admiral Hornby of the <i>Liverpool</i>, flagship of the +flying squadron.</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img23"> +<img width="535" height="422" src="images/vi23.jpg" alt="[Illustration: First bridge over the Gorge.]" /> +</div> + +<p class="pagenum">p.129</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov15">CHAPTER XV.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">OLD QUADRA STREET CEMETERY.</p> + +<div class="verse"> +<div class="stanza"> + <span class="i0">"Yet even these bones from insult to protect,</span><br /> + <span class="i0">Some frail memorial still erected nigh."</span></div> +<div class="stanza"> + <span class="i0">"Each in his narrow cell forever laid,</span><br /> + <span class="i0">The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep."</span></div> +</div> + <p style="margin-left:12em">—Thomas Gray.</p> + +<p>I must first apologize for altering two words in this quotation from +this most beautiful poem that caused the celebrated General Wolfe to +say that he would rather be the author of it than have taken Quebec.</p> + +<p>I am moved to write these lines by the fact that these bones require +protecting from the vandalism of certain persons unknown, also I have +been approached by pioneers several times to write about this +desecration of the last resting-place of our pioneers.</p> + +<p>It was in 1859 or early ’60 that the Quadra Street Cemetery was +opened, all the bones from the cemetery on Johnson and Douglas +Streets being exhumed and carried to Quadra Street in carts. I have +stood several times and watched the operation of digging up and +carting away of the remains from the first cemetery. It was situated +on the corner of Johnson and Douglas Streets, the brick building on +the south-west corner being built on the site, and it must have +extended into the streets also, as some years later skeletons were +found by workmen digging trenches for water pipes. There <span class="pagenum">p.130</span> were +many naval men buried there, and the dates on some of the headboards +and stones in Quadra Street Cemetery show an earlier date than the +opening of it, there being two burials from war vessels, one in 1846, +H. M. S. <i>Cormorant</i>, and one in 1852. These early dates show that +Her Majesty’s vessels were in Esquimalt at that time. Naval men and +Hudson’s Bay Company’s employees were the large majority of those +buried in the first cemetery. As a boy, I had a great weakness for +funerals, and living only a block from Quadra Street, I attended +scores in my day. I naturally liked the naval funerals best, for +there were soldiers and sailors, and bands of music, with three +volleys over the grave, so I missed few. The funerals came from +Esquimalt, generally by water, in large boats propelled by oars, +and landed at the Hudson’s Bay Company’s wharf.</p> + +<p>By the inscriptions, a large majority were young men and sailors, and +many were the result of accidents in Esquimalt harbor by drowning.</p> + +<p>I well remember the funeral of Captain Bull, of H. M. surveying ship +<i>Plumper</i>, who died at the age of twenty-seven years, the coffin +being fastened to a gun carriage and pulled by bluejackets. The state +of Victoria’s streets at that time was such that it required a deal +of power to propel any vehicle, and especially was this the case with +Quadra Street. I have often seen a funeral come to a dead standstill +and the hearse dug out of the mud, as also teams loaded with stones +for monuments in the cemetery.</p> + +<p>We will suppose the hearse has been dug out, and in the cemetery near +the grave, in many cases men might be seen bailing out the grave, one +below and one on top; especially was this the case with the Roman +Catholic ground. And I have known when it was necessary to hold <span class="pagenum">p.131</span> +the coffin down in the water with shovels or have a man get down and +stand on the coffin until enough soil was thrown on it to keep it +down. What must the friends have thought at this time, as the dirty +water was forcing its way into the coffin? In the majority of burials +there was no grave-case, which helped to make matters worse.</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img24"> +<img width="451" height="433" src="images/vi24.jpg" alt="[Illustration: Quadra Street Cemetery.]" /> +</div> + +<p>I have always paid periodical visits to this cemetery, the chief +reason being that my mother was buried there when I was fifteen years +old. She expressed a wish to be carried to her grave instead of being +taken in a hearse, and it was the first instance I can remember in +Victoria, although it may have been done earlier.</p> + +<p>Both Bishops Cridge and Garrett, the clergymen who conducted the +burial services over her, are alive to-day.</p> + +<p>Some four years ago, I had a marble headstone put on her grave, which +was enclosed with a fence, and last fall I saw it there although +buried in weeds. A few weeks ago a lady friend asked me if my +mother’s name was Jane; for that she had, in walking through the +cemetery, come across a stone which must have been hers. I went up to +investigate, and after some hours’ search found the stone, but the +enclosure was gone, and I had a time locating the grave, to replace +the stone. In compiling the information given in this article, I made +many visits lately, and I can say that it is a disgrace to a +civilized community to have the last resting-place of Victoria’s +pioneers in such a condition—marble and sandstone monuments lying in +all directions, broken either by falling over naturally, or with +rocks by some vandal.</p> + +<p>It is a mistake to suppose that there are few remaining relations of +these long-buried dead. At least there are fifty per cent. of them +represented by relations to-day, as I shall show later on, and I hope +the state of <span class="pagenum">p.132</span> affairs as here related, may cause them to move at +once to right matters.</p> + +<p>I might say that the individual plots were owned outright by the +relations, and others, for they have certain title to them. +Individual comments are made on all those that I know or knew of, and +several large, heavy stones I could not lift to get inscriptions, as +they lay on their face. In several cases wood headboards have +outlived stone, the inscription on the former being more legible than +the stone. The action of the elements in many cases has entirely +erased some, especially from sandstone, although newer than the wood +boards.</p> + +<p>One of the inscriptions I have read many a time as being quaint, was +so far as I can remember, thus:</p> + +<div class="verse"> +<div class="stanza"> + <span class="i0">". . . Physicians were in vain;</span><br /> + <span class="i0">Till Christ did please to give her ease, release from all her pain."</span></div> +</div> + +<ul> +<li>John S. Titcombe, pilot; monument erected by I. O. O. F.; died 1869, +aged 41 years.</li> + +<li>Matthew Hollow, died Feb. 28, 1871, aged 39 years; erected by +Victoria Lodge, I. O. O. F.</li> + +<li>Thos. Pritchard, died Oct. 31, 1883, aged 79; also Margaret his wife, +died Dec. 3, 1871, 64 years. Note—This is the most pretentious +monument in the cemetery. They leave grandchildren.</li> + +<li>James Orr, died 1871, aged 32 years; buried by St. Andrew’s Masons +and I. O. O. F.</li> + +<li>Alice Heathcote, wife of J. W. Hutchinson, jailer; died March 30, +1868, aged 27 years.</li> + +<li>Margaret Langley, wife of Edward Langley; died 1866; leaves +relatives.</li> + +<li>James McCulloch, engineer steamer <i>Sir James <span class="pagenum">p.133</span> Douglas</i>; died April 2, +1870, aged 46; also Margaret, wife of above, died Dec. 3, 1871, aged +64 years; also Wm. M. Doran, mate of same ship, who was accidentally +drowned in Victoria harbor, July 7, 1868, aged 45 years; erected by +officers and men of steamer.</li> + +<li>Jessie Russell, wife of Robt. J. Russell (Russell’s Station); died +Aug. 29, 1860, aged 42.</li> + +<li>John Wilkie, Wharf Street merchant; died April 28, 1871, aged 38 +years.</li> + +<li>James Murray Reid (Reid & Macdonald), partner of Senator Macdonald, +and father of Mrs. W. J. Macdonald.</li> + +<li>James Hepburn, died April 16, 1869; 58 years.</li> + +<li>Nathaniel Milby Hicks, clerk C. M. C., died Oct. 31, 1870, age 52. +(Member of first municipal council Victoria city.)</li> + +<li>Capt. John W. Waitt, father of late M. W. Waitt; died 1870, aged 67.</li> + +<li>Frederick and Arthur—children of Mrs. J. W. Williams.</li> + +<li>Thos. Carter, of Hillside Farm, died 1869, aged 52 years; was husband +of Mrs. C. Booth (and father of William Carter, provincial assessor’s +office). Note—Mr. Carter contracted a bad cold in the cemetery at +the funeral of a brother Mason, and was heard to remark in an +undertone to a friend as he was looking down into the grave, "And who +will be the next?" Strange to say, he himself was the next, for +within ten days his brother Masons met there to bury him.</li> + +<li>Mrs. Harriet Jameson; died 1868, aged 18 years.</li> + +<li>John Work, Chief Factor of H. B. Co., died Dec. 22, 1861, aged 70; +and his son, Henry, died June 19, 1856, aged 12 years. (John Work was +well known to all old-timers.) <span class="pagenum">p.134</span></li> + +<li>Cecilia, wife of J. S. Helmcken, M.D., died Feb. 4, 1865, aged 30 +years; also Douglas Claude, died Jan. 17, 1854, aged 3 months; +Margaret Jane, died March —, 18 months; also Ogilvy Roderick, died +March 5, 1 month—children of the above. (The wife of Dr. J. S. and +mother of Dr. J. D. and H. D. Helmcken, and Mrs. — McTavish and Mrs. +Higgins.)</li> + +<li>Martha Coles; died March 13, 1865, aged 30 years.</li> + +<li>Geo. Hooper; died March 15, 1865, aged 53 years.</li> + +<li>Jane Neely; died April 1, 1865, aged 28.</li> + +<li>Wm. Brooke Naylor; died Oct. 2, 1866, aged 42; sheriff of Vancouver +Island. (Has a son here, Brooke Naylor.)</li> + +<li>Cecilia Cameron, wife of David Cameron, C. J. of colony; died Nov. +26, 1859; also David Cameron, C. J., died May 14, 1872, aged 68 +years.</li> + +<li>Jno. Walton; died June 17, 1867, aged 55 years.</li> + +<li>Abner H. Francis; died — 25, 1872, aged 59 years.</li> + +<li>Chas W. Wallace, died March 13, 1865, aged 65; Jane Adison, died Feb. +5, 1854, aged 25 years; Kate, died July 11, 1869; Abby, died April 2, +1866; Edward, died Jan. 22, 1864; Charlie, died July 19, 1867—wife, +children, father and sister of Charles W. Wallace (father of Mrs. E. +E. Blackwood).</li> + +<li>Mary Kamopiopio, wife of Wm. R. Kaule Lelehe; died Dec. 20, 1865, age +16. (Native of Hawaii.)</li> + +<li>Henry Courtenay; born Oct. 27, 1869, died Sept. 14, 1871; 2 years. +(Drowned at Burrard Inlet.)</li> + +<li>Helen Amelia Dallas; born Feb. 20, 1859, died Jan. 24, 1860. +(Granddaughter of Sir James Douglas.)</li> + +<li>Barbara, wife of Thomas Mann; age 25 years.</li> + +<li>Mary F. Semple; died Oct. 4, 1866; 1 year 10 months.</li> + +<li>Wm. Honey; died Dec. 3, 1866, age 54 years.</li> + +<li>Caroline Harrey Ewing; died June 3, 1864, aged 45 years. <span class="pagenum">p.135</span></li> + +<li>Lucinda Mary, wife of Robert Grienslade; died Dec. 6, 1868, age 18 +years.</li> + +<li>Harriet, wife of Thomas James; died Oct. 19, 1868, aged 18 years.</li> + +<li>James Wilson Trahey; died Dec. 2, 1868; 38 years.</li> + +<li>Isaac Cameron; died Feb. 6, 1870; 29 years.</li> + +<li>John B. McClearn; died Jan. 29, 1870, age 42.</li> + +<li>Andrew Phillips; died Jan. 24, 1870, age 10 years.</li> + +<li>Bridget, wife of Timothy Roberts; died Nov. 7, 1872, age 40 years.</li> + +<li>John Bowes Thompson; died Aug. 6, 1870, age 49.</li> + +<li>Hy. Francis Lee; died June 22, 1872, age 36 years.</li> + +<li>Charlotte Dandridge; died March 7, 1863, age 70 years.</li> + +<li>B. A. Wolsey. (Erected by her father.)</li> + +<li>Hugh Cavin Walker; died May 16, 1868, age 26 years.</li> + +<li>Freddy, child of J. W. and M. A. Williams; died March 31, 1870, age 4 +years.</li> + +<li>Wm. Emery; died May 2, 1871, age 33 years.</li> + +<li>C. A. Schmid; died Nov. 29, 1871, age 48 years.</li> + +<li>Charlotte, wife of John Holden; died March, 1863, age 28 years.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="sc">Naval Corner.</h4> +<ul> +<li>Monument erected to officers and men of H. M. S. <i>Satellite</i>—Daniel +Evans, John Stanton, James Butland, John Willmore, Richard Stone, +all drowned June 6, 1860; Wm. Brewer, died 1856; John Blackler, died +1859; Wm. Kett, died 1859; Richard Brown, died 1857; William Stout, +died 1858; William Bell, died 1858; George Kembery, died 1860.</li> + +<li>Monument to men of H. M. S. <i>Sutlej</i>—George Lush, John Guff, +Edward Tiller, Joseph Neckless, died 1863 and 1864. <span class="pagenum">p.136</span></li> + +<li>Monument to Benjamin Topp, H. M. S. <i>Cormorant</i>; died Oct. 22, +1846, age 40.</li> + +<li>John Miller, H. M. S. <i>Thetis</i>, drowned in Esquimalt harbor June +3, 1852, age 22; W. R. Plummer, H. M. S. <i>Thetis</i>, age 23; James +Smith, H. M. S. <i>Thetis</i>, age 31; Charles Parsons, H. M. S. +<i>Thetis</i>, age 35—all drowned between Esquimalt and Victoria +harbors, Aug. 22, 1852. Note—This headboard is wood, and although +nearly 50 years old, is in splendid preservation, painted white with +black letters, which stand out as plain as the day they were put on.</li> + +<li>Monument to men of H. M. S. <i>Plumper</i>—James D. Trewin, died +June 12, 1858, age 32 years; George Williams, Feb. 4, 1858, age 37 +years.</li> + +<li>Monument to William Johnson, H. M. S. <i>Hecate</i>; died Jan. 3, 1862.</li> + +<li>Monument to men of H. M. S. <i>Sutlej</i>; died 1864 and 1866—Thomas +Depnall, John Reese, George Crute, William Douglas, Albert Gilbert, +Alexander Borthwick.</li> + +<li>Monument to men of H. M. S. <i>Tribune</i>, 1865.</li> + +<li>Chief Engineer of H. M. S. <i>Sparrowhawk</i>; died 1866.</li> + +<li>Paymaster of H. M. S. <i>Devastation</i>; died 1864.</li> + +<li>Engineer of H. M. S. <i>Topaz</i>; died 1861.</li> + +<li>Commander Robson, of H. M. Gunboat <i>Forward</i>; died 1861, from +effects of fall from his horse.</li> + +<li>Engineer Charlton; died 1861. (Accidentally shot himself.)</li> + +<li>Captain John A. Bull, master of H. M. surveying vessel +<i>Plumper</i>; died —, 1860, age 27 years.</li> + +<li>Granite monument to Edwin Evans, only son of Rev. E. Evans, D.D., age +20 years.<br /> + +I have already given an account of this young man’s death and burial +in one of my former reminiscences; how he was drowned off Beacon Hill +one December day. <span class="pagenum">p.137</span> He undressed and swam out after a duck he had +shot, got caught in the kelp and was drowned, his poor father walking +up and down the beach all that night, calling "Edwin! Edwin! My son!" +He was buried in a snowstorm, and great sympathy was shown by the +public, by the crowds which filled the cemetery that day. Dr. Evans +was Methodist minister when the church was built that is now being +demolished.</li> + +<li>Monument to Frederick Pemberton, Edward Scott, Eber and Grace, the +four children of Bishop Cridge, who all died within two months, from +diphtheria, in 1864–5; also his sister, Miss Cridge.</li> + +<li>Jane, aged 47, wife of Thomas Lea Fawcett, and mother of Rowland, +Edgar and Arthur Fawcett, the latter of London, Eng.; died January, +1864.</li> + +<li>Thomas H. Botterell; died 1866, age 27 years.</li> + +<li>Eliza A., daughter of George and Isabella Simpson; died 1872, aged 16 +years 8 months (sister of George Simpson, H. M. customs.)</li> + +<li>James Murray Yale, chief trader, H. B. Co.; died May 7, 1871, age 71 +years.</li> + +<li>Charlotte B., wife of Joseph Corin; died July 12, 1863, age 24 years. +(She was the wife of partner of Charles Hayward.)</li> + +<li>Elizabeth Caroline, wife of Edward G. Alston; died January, 1865, age +27 years. (Mr. Alston was registrar-general.)</li> + +<li>Charlotte, wife of John Dutnall (John Dutnall was sexton of Christ +Church, and formerly in charge of one of the H. B. Co.’s farms. Has a +brother at Albert Head, farming.)</li> + +<li>Antonia Hernandez; died March 22, 1862, age 32 years. <span class="pagenum">p.138</span></li> + +<li>Henry Proctor Seelie, of London, England; died July 23, 1864, age 24 +years.</li> + +<li>Cecil, fourth son of G. T. Gordon; died April 20, 1861, age 5 years 4 +months.</li> + +<li>Anna Maria, widow of the late William Yardly; died March 5, 1864, age +59 years. (Mother of Mrs. Hy. Wootton.)</li> + +<li>Samuel Hocking; died Sept. 15, 1862, age 37 years 8 months.</li> + +<li>Louis Richards, native of Cornwall; died Oct. 21, 1872, age 21 years.</li> + +<li>James Brown, of Kingston, Canada; died Feb. 9, 1873, age 37 years.</li> + +<li>Alexander Deans; died October, 1858, age 17 months.</li> + +<li>Mary Jane Deans; died July 8, 1868, age 5 years.</li> + +<li>John Spence; died Sept. 29, 1865, age 67 years.</li> + +<li>Mrs. Johnson, wife of J. H. Johnson, engineer H. B. Co. steamer +<i>Beaver</i>; died Dec. 22, 1858. (Johnson Street named after him.)</li> + +<li>George Leggatt—headstone is illegible.</li> + +<li>Barbara, wife of Thomas Mann; age 25 years.</li> + +<li>John Miles; died January, 1861; age 35 years.</li> + +<li>William Wallis; died Jan. 3, 1862.</li> + +<li>Ann Sayward; died August 17, 1870, age 46 years. (Mother of Walter +Chambers and Joseph Sayward.)</li> + +<li>James Chambers; died Dec. 7, 1859 (father of Walter Chambers), age 38 +years.</li> + +<li>Joseph Austen; died July 2, 1871, age 89 years. (A pioneer of 1858, +and also of San Francisco, where he was a prominent member of the +"vigilance committee." When he was made a judge, sentenced men to +death during the stirring times of the early fifties in that city.)</li> + +<li>John Parks; died June 6, 1862, age 27 years. <span class="pagenum">p.139</span></li> + +<li>Millicent Page, wife of William Page; died Feb. 19, 1864, age 55 +years.</li> + +<li>Kenneth Nicholson; died Nov. 10, 1863, aged 35.</li> + +<li>John Sparks, killed by explosion on steamer <i>Cariboo</i>, Aug. 2, +1861, age 28 years.</li> + +<li>John Murray; died May 6, 1872, age 44 years.</li> + +<li>William Henry Downes; died June 17, 1872, age 47 years.</li> + +<li>Thomas, son of W. H. and A. J. Huxtable; died Feb. 8, 1869, age 4 +years 9 months.</li> + +<li>Anne, wife of Joseph H. Brown; died Aug. 16, 1871, age 31 years.</li> + +<li>Jos. H. Brown; died July, 1869, age 39 years.</li> + +<li>William and Edith, two children of William B. and Eliza Townsend; +died in 1868 and 1871. (William B. Townsend was mayor of +Westminster.)</li> + +<li>Hannah, second daughter of John and Christiana Kinsman; died Feb. 26, +1865, age 7 years. (Daughter of the late Alderman Kinsman.)</li> + +<li>Agnes Laumeisler; died Sept. 4, 1861, age 36 years.</li> + +<li>Cecil Montague, second son of W. A. G. Young; died June 22, 1865, age +5 years. (Mr. Young was colonial secretary in 1865.)</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="sc">Roman Catholic Section.</h4> + +<p>There are very few of the monuments left standing here. Besides those +naturally destroyed by time, many have been broken by stones into +many pieces.</p> + +<ul> +<li>Carroll monument.—This, the second largest and costliest in the +cemetery, has been very badly used, but it is also one of the oldest. +Erected by Ellen Carroll, in memory of her beloved husband, John D. +Carroll, died July 11, 1862, age 38; also in memory of her beloved <span class="pagenum">p.140</span> +babes, George Washington, born Feb. 22, 1860, died same day; John +Thomas, born July 26, died same day; Mary Margaret, born Sept. 29, +1862, and died same day. (Who could blame this bereaved wife and +mother if she didn’t long remain a widow?)</li> + +<li>Sosthenes Driard, a native of France, born 1819, died Feb. 15, 1873. +(This marble stone was in several pieces, and difficult to read, but +I persevered, as he was so well-known a man in early days, as mine +host of the Colonial Hotel and afterwards of the Driard House.)</li> + +<li>Marie Manciet; died Oct. —, 1868, age 21 years.</li> + +<li>Mary Hall; died May 31, 1860, age 40 years. (This headboard is one of +the best preserved in the cemetery; the black letters stand out as +clear and bright as if just executed, but the white paint has nearly +disappeared.)</li> + +<li>W. L. Williams; died Dec. 17, 1862, age 20 years.</li> + +<li>Jane Forbes; died July 22, 1859, age 26 years.</li> + +<li>John Clarke; died Dec. 27, 1860, age 31 years.</li> + +<li>James Farrelly; died Jan. —, 1866, age 28 years.</li> + +<li>Maria Ragazzoni; died —, 1864.</li> + +<li>Marie Newburger, died —, 1861, age 12 years.</li> + +<li>Dr. N. M. Clerjon; died Feb. 25, 1861; age 53 years.</li> + +<li>To the memory of my darling little Eva, who died July 14, 1863, age 7 +years and 5 months; also her infant brother, age 3 days. J. S. +Drummond (on a large flat stone.)</li> + +<li>Charles H. Blenkinsop, H. B. Co.; died March 22, 1864.</li> + +<li>Sacred to the memory of John Wood, from his wife—1864. Note—This is +one of the best preserved headstones and enclosures in the cemetery, +the latter being of iron, and 43 years old. My friend, Mr. Higgins, +in his book "The Mystic Spring," gives the story of this <span class="pagenum">p.141</span> clever +actor, and his wife also, so I will not enlarge on it.</li> + +<li>John Sparks, age 28 years; killed by the explosion of steamer +<i>Cariboo</i>, Aug. 2, 1861.</li> + +<li>Smith Baird Jamieson, killed by the explosion of steamer +<i>Yale</i>—April, 1861; Archibald Jamieson, and James Baird +Jamieson, killed by the explosion of steamer <i>Cariboo</i> in +Victoria harbor, Aug. 2, 1861, three brothers, sons of Robert +Jamieson, Brodick, Isle of Arran, Scotland.—I refer my readers to +Mr. Higgins’ book for the story of these brothers also. I remember +the morning of the explosion of the <i>Cariboo</i>. It woke up the +whole town. I think her bones lie in the mud alongside Turpel’s ways +in Songhees reserve.</li> + +<li>William Alexander Mouat, chief trader H. B. Co.; died April 11, 1871, +aged 50 years; also Clarissa Elizabeth, daughter of the above, age 8 +years. (Father of Mrs. Richard Jones.)</li> + +<li>Eleanor M. Johnston; died Feb. 27, 1872.</li> + +<li>Elizabeth A. Kennedy; born at Fort Simpson, Nov. 1835, died at Fort +Victoria, February, 1850; also Dr. John Kennedy, chief trader, H. B. +Co., died 1859, age 52 years; also Fanny Kennedy, age 25 years; James +B. Ogilvy, died Dec. 23, 1860, aged 5 years; John D. B. Ogilvy, +Victoria Lodge, No. 783, F. & A. M., age 30 years; died May 12, 1865. +(Father, mother, daughter and nephew, and Dr. Kennedy had two sons, +one master of the Colonial school in 1859, and one clerk in H. B. +Co.’s store.)</li> + +<li>William Wright; died July —, 1870, age 53 years.</li> + +<li>John Hender Wood, master of ship <i>Ellen</i>; died May 12, 1868, age +41 years.</li> + +<li>George H. Booth; died Sept. 1, 1867, age 1 year 8 <span class="pagenum">p.142</span> months. +(Wood headboard is in good state of preservation.)</li> + +<li>Henry Francis Lee; died June 22, 1872, age 36 years.</li> + +<li>Mary Ann Dougherty; died Sept. 5, 1863.</li> + +<li>Paul Medana; died Nov. 14, 1868.</li> + +<li>James Webster; died Sept. 15, 1862, age 37 years 8 months.</li> + +<li>Millicent Page, wife of Wm. Page; died Feb. 19, 1864, age 55 years.</li> + +<li>Kenneth Nicholson; died Nov. 10, 1863, age 35 years.</li> + +<li>Charles Dodd (Chief Factor H. B. Co.); died June 2, 1860, age 52 +years.</li> + +<li>Eleanor M. Johnston; died June 2, 1860.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="sc">Victoria’s First Cemetery.</h4> + +<p>The finding of the skeletons in the excavation of Johnson Street this +week, recalls the last find nearby, a few years ago, in laying +waterpipes on Douglas Street, and I find, in referring to an article +I wrote five years ago on clippings from the <i>Victoria Gazette</i>, +Victoria’s first newspaper, that "the Council have ordered the +removal of the bodies from the cemetery on Johnson Street to the new +cemetery on Quadra." I can well remember seeing this removal; the +bones where the bodies were not entire being thrown into carts, and +taken to the Quadra Street Cemetery. I might state that with the +exception of a few Hudson’s Bay Company’s employees, those buried +there were men from Her Majesty’s fleet at Esquimalt. This may seem +a long time ago for vessels of war to be at Esquimalt, but by the +tombstones in Quadra Street Cemetery, I find there were some of the +seamen from H. M. S. <i>Cormorant</i> <span class="pagenum">p.143</span> buried in 1846. One of these was +Benjamin Topp, and also John Miller, of H. M. S. <i>Thetis</i>, who +were drowned in Esquimalt harbor; also W. R. Plummer, James Smith, +and Charles Parsons, all drowned between Esquimalt and Victoria, +August 22, 1852; also James D. Trewin and George Williams, February +4th, 1858. These were all removed to Quadra Street the following +year.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.144</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov16">CHAPTER XVI.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">PIONEER SOCIETY’S BANQUET.</p> + +<h4 class="sc">Some Reminiscences.</h4> + +<p>On the 28th April, 1871, or forty-one years ago, a meeting was held +in Smith’s Hall, which was situated in the building now occupied by +Hall and Gospel on Government Street. The meeting was called to +organize a society of the pioneers of British Columbia, and +especially of Victoria. Among those present, and one who took a +prominent part in its work, was William P. Sayward. By the death of +this pioneer I am the sole remaining member of those who founded the +society. By Mr. Sayward’s death this city and province loses a man +whom any city would be proud of. Knowing him as I had from boyhood, I +can speak feelingly. He was one of the kindest-hearted men, a man who +had no enemies that I ever heard of, but hosts of friends. Who ever +went to him for charity and was refused? Who ever asked forgiveness +of a debt and was repulsed? Although he was victimized many times, in +his case virtue was its own reward. From small beginnings, when the +lumber business was first started on Humboldt Street, on the shores +of James Bay, to the present time, the Sayward business has gone on +prospering, having been built on a firm foundation by a kindly and +honest man, who in February, 1905, passed from our sight to a better +life. The society elected as its first <span class="pagenum">p.145</span> officers the following: +President, John Dickson; vice-president, Jules Rueff; treasurer, +E. Grancini; secretary, Edgar Fawcett; directors, W. P. Sayward, +H. E. Wilby, Alexander Young, and Sosthenes Driard. Long may the +society continue. Mr. Sayward’s son, Joseph, has since his father’s +death disposed of the business, of which he became the owner, to +a large corporation, and has retired from business, one of our +wealthy men.</p> + +<div class="imgright" id="img25"> +<img width="260" height="415" src="images/vi25.jpg" alt="[Portrait: William P. Sayward.]" /> +</div> + +<p>Nothing better illustrates what I feel to-day, as the last of the +charter members who met together at Smith’s Hall, on Government +Street, over Hall & Gospel’s office, on the 28th April, 1871, than +the following lines from my favorite poet, Thomas Moore:</p> + +<div class="verse"> +<div class="stanza"> + <span class="i0">"Oft in the stilly night,</span><br /> + <span class="i0">Ere slumber’s chain has bound me,</span><br /> + <span class="i0">Fond memory brings the light</span><br /> + <span class="i0">Of other days around me.</span></div> + <div class="stanza"> + <span class="i0">"When I remember all</span><br /> + <span class="i0">The friends so linked together</span><br /> + <span class="i0">I’ve seen around me fall,</span><br /> + <span class="i0">Like leaves in wintry weather.</span></div> + <div class="stanza"> + <span class="i0">"I feel like one who treads alone</span><br /> + <span class="i0">Some banquet hall deserted;</span><br /> + <span class="i0">Whose lights are fled, whose garlands dead—</span><br /> + <span class="i0">And all but he departed."</span></div> +</div> + +<p>I have applied this to my visit to Smith’s Hall, of which I shall +tell you. Since the death of my old friend, William P. Sayward, some +months ago, I have reflected often on the fact that I was the last of +that little band. The other night I woke up, and remained awake for <span class="pagenum">p.146</span> +some time; and my thoughts wandered to pioneer days, and from that to +the gathering of pioneers this year, which, I understood, was to be +a more extended gathering than usual. I thought I should like to be +there for the sake of old times, but could not make up my mind to +brave the disagreeable weather at this time of year.</p> + +<p>After considering the matter, I decided to write, if I did not go; +and, further, I decided to pay a visit to Smith’s Hall first. So next +morning I called on Mr. Kinsman, who kindly showed me upstairs, and +over the old place. I might well say, "the old place," for it looked +old and deserted, like the banquet hall spoken of by Moore.</p> + +<p>With my mind’s eye I pictured the scene of thirty-five years ago—I +was at the hall early, being enthusiastic on the subject, and noted +each well-known face as the guests came up the stairs and took their +seats, until about forty had collected.</p> + +<p>There was Thomas Harris, who had been the first mayor of the city. He +was very stout, and complained of the exertion in climbing up the +stairs, which was passed off as a joke, of course.</p> + +<p>There was Major McDonell, a retired army officer; Robert H. Austen, a +pioneer of San Francisco, whose uncle, Judge Austen (an early +resident), had been a prominent member of the "vigilance committee" +of San Francisco in the early fifties, when men were tried by that +committee, condemned to death, and hanged, as I myself was a witness +to on two occasions.</p> + +<p>There was William P. Sayward, the father of Joseph Sayward, and one +of the best men Victoria ever produced; Patrick McTiernan, a +well-known business man; Captain Gardner, one of Victoria’s pilots; +Henry E. Wilby, father of the Messrs. Wilby of Douglas Street, <span class="pagenum">p.147</span> +who was Portuguese Consul, and a resident of Esquimalt; Jules Rueff +and E. Grancini, both Wharf Street merchants; Andrew C. Elliott, a +barrister, and afterwards premier of the province; Honore Passerard, +a Frenchman and property holder of Johnson Street; Robert Ridley, who +claimed he was the original "Old Bob Ridley" who crossed the plains +to San Francisco in ’49; Felix Leslonis, the Hudson’s Bay Company’s +cooper, who was a Frenchman, and used to sing a song called "Beau +Nicolas" at charity concerts, and usually brought down the house.</p> + +<p>There was S. Driard, another Frenchman, and proprietor of the Driard +House, and who being, like Mayor Harris, very corpulent and +asthmatic, complained, like him, of the "upper room"; James Wilcox, +the proprietor of Royal Hotel, now proved to have been the "second" +brick hotel built in Victoria; William Spence, a contractor, and +after whom Spence’s Rock was named; John Dickson, the tinsmith and +hardware man of Yates Street—a quiet, goodhearted man, an American; +James Lowe, a Wharf Street merchant, of Lowe Bros.; Frank Campbell, +of "Campbell’s Corner"—genial, goodhearted Frank, a man without an +enemy; Thomas L. Stahlschmidt, of Henderson & Burnaby, Wharf Street +merchants, and father of Mr. Stahlschmidt, of R. Ward & Co.</p> + +<p>There were Robert Burnaby, already mentioned; J. B. Timmerman, +accountant and real estate agent, a Frenchman; Benjamin P. Griffin, +mine host of the Boomerang, who had been a friend of my father’s in +Sydney, Australia, and was accountant in a bank there; and lastly, +your humble servant, who was secretary of the meeting. There were +others present, but they did not see fit to become members, among +them being Ben Griffin.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.148</p> + +<p>As I said before, they passed in review before me as I stood there +thinking; and to-day I think no one lives to tell the tale of that +gathering.</p> + +<p>I am fully in accord with the suggestion that there be a reunion of +all pioneers of early Victoria; but I think it should be in the +summer, when as many as possible could be there, and it might be made +very interesting by a recital of the personal recollections of those +present. I should like to hear Mr. Higgins, for I am sure he has not +yet told all he knows of the early history of Victoria.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.149</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov17">CHAPTER XVII.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">VICTORIA DISTRICT CHURCH.</p> + +<p>I read with a great deal of pleasure the article on Christ Church by +Canon Beanlands. These reminiscences of former days in Victoria have +a charm for me that is not easy to describe. More particularly is +this the case in the present instance, as my very earliest +recollections of this fair city are connected with Victoria District +Church. My mother was a devout church woman, and I attended her in +her frequent and regular attendance. She encouraged me to join the +choir as a boy in 1861 and taught me music, and my first position in +the church in connection with its musical services was as organ +blower. I afterwards took my seat with the adults, singing treble, +then alto and tenor, and I have now the treble score of several +anthems copied by myself at that time.</p> + +<p>I shall now describe the church as I remember it in 1859 and 1862. +The inside was an oblong square. The entrance was at the south-west +corner, and there was a gallery across the west end, where the old +organ and the choir were then situated. Under this gallery were pews, +one of which was occupied by our family. The vestry was at the +south-west corner, and had entrance from under the gallery as well as +from outside. The inside of the building was lathed and plastered. +There was a low tower at the south-west corner, dovecote shaped, +where the pigeons made their nests and brought forth their young. +There were two bells in the tower, <span class="pagenum">p.150</span> one larger than the other, +which when rung sounded ding-dong, ding-dong three times a day, +morning, afternoon and evening of Sunday, and also Wednesday +evenings. A plan shows a square contrivance opposite the entrance. +This was Governor Douglas’ pew, and was occupied by the Governor and +his family regularly each Sunday morning. He walked down the aisle in +his uniform in the most dignified manner, and led the congregation in +the responses in an audible voice. By the plan an organ and choir are +shown in the gallery as well as one in the chancel, but the dates +1859 and 1862 explain that in 1862 there was a new organ, and the old +one removed, and the gallery done away with. It was in this gallery +my services commenced as organ blower, and the only one I can now +remember as singing in the choir at that early date was John Butts, a +young man lately from Australia. He had a nice tenor voice, and was +very regular in attendance for some time, until he fell from grace. +He was the town crier afterwards and a noted character. Mr. Higgins +speaks of him in the "Mystic Spring."</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img26"> +<img width="389" height="272" src="images/vi26.jpg" alt="[Illustration: Victoria district church.]" /> +</div> + +<p>One Sunday morning in 1862 or 1863, while Bishop Hills was preaching, +a man walked into the church and cried out, "My Lord, the church is +on fire!" Judge Pemberton, one of the officers of the church, with +others got on to the ceiling through a manhole above the gallery, and +walked on the rafters to where the fire was located. He missed his +footing and came through the lath and plaster, but luckily did not +fall to the floor below, but, like Mahomet’s coffin, hung suspended +by his arms until rescued from above. The congregation were soon +outside, and with willing help the fire was soon extinguished. The +church was built and opened in August, 1856, under the supervision of +Mr. William Leigh, who was in charge of Uplands Farm, <span class="pagenum">p.151</span> Cadboro +Bay, and was in the service of the Hudson’s Bay Company. Mr. Leigh +was a man of very good attainments, being a good musician and +contributing to the various entertainments of those days, when +regular entertainments by professionals were few and far between. He +subsequently was City Clerk, being the second to hold that position, +after Mr. Nathaniel M. Hicks, who was appointed clerk on the city +being incorporated. Mr. Hicks is buried in Quadra Street Cemetery, +and his headstone is in evidence to-day as a mute appeal to our city +fathers to put the place in order. I might say that Mr. Leigh was the +father of a numerous family, but I believe, with the exception of a +son, Ernest, who resides in San Francisco, and a granddaughter, Mrs. +George Simpson, who resides here, all have passed away.</p> + +<p>Victoria District church was destroyed by fire in 1869, one evening +about 10 o’clock, the alarm being given by a Catholic priest on his +way home, who with Mr. James Kennedy (who lived with me), was passing +over the hill. Of the early pioneer clergy connected with the church, +Mr. Cridge, the incumbent, was first; then Bishop Hills; the Rev. R. +J. Dundas, afterward rector of St. John’s; Rev. Alexander C. Garrett, +now Bishop of Dallas, Texas, and Rev. George Crickmer, who +subsequently was sent to Langley or Yale.</p> + +<div class="imgright" id="img27"> +<img width="264" height="424" src="images/vi27.jpg" alt="[Portrait: Bishop George Hills.]" /> +</div> + +<p>The organ used up to 1861 or 1862 was situated in the gallery, and +had three barrels, each of ten tunes, so that thirty tunes was the +limit. Mr. Seeley, who owned the Australian House, which stood until +lately at the north end of the Causeway, was an attendant at the +church, and being an organ-builder undertook to improvise a keyboard +attachment for this barrel organ. This keyboard was used on Sunday +mornings and on special occasions by Mrs. Atwood (Mrs. T. Sidney +Wilson of St. Charles Street.) At evening services the <span class="pagenum">p.152</span> music +was produced by the barrels, worked by a handle, and the writer on +these occasions was the "organist." An amusing incident occurred one +Sunday evening when I, forgetting the number of verses of a hymn to +be sung, stopped playing, and the congregation commenced another +verse. Seeing that I had made an error I began again two notes +behind. This made confusion worse confounded, as may be supposed, but +having commenced I continued to the end of the verse. This being the +closing hymn, "Lord, Dismiss Us with Thy Blessing," I was not long in +making my exit from the church, as I did not wish to meet Mr. Cridge +or any of the church officers, being only a youth and anticipating +censure, but I forget if I got it. About this time a committee of +ladies of the church, among whom were Mrs. A. T. Bushby, mother of +Mrs. W. P. Bullen, and Mrs. Good, her sister, both daughters of the +Governor, Mrs. Senator Macdonald, and Mrs. Cridge collected a large +sum of money and sent to England for a fine pipe organ which I +suppose is the one in use to-day. The first organist of this organ +was a Mr. Whittaker, and of the choir, as near as I can remember +them, were the Misses Harriet and Annie Thorne, Mrs. T. Sidney +Wilson, Mrs. Macdonald and her two sisters the Misses Reid, Dr. J. C. +Davie, Alex. Davie, his brother, Mr. Willoughby, Robert Jenkinson, +Albert F. Hicks, John Bagnall, my brother Rowland and myself. Mr. +Walter Chambers, as a youth, was organ blower also about this time. +The first sexton and verger was William Raby, and the next John +Spelde, who had charge of the Quadra Street Cemetery, digging the +graves and collecting the fees for the same.</p> + +<p>I have spun this article out beyond what I intended, but I must be +excused as I don’t know when I have said enough on pioneer days.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.153</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov18">CHAPTER XVIII.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">CHRISTMAS IN PIONEER DAYS.</p> + +<div class="verse"> +<div class="stanza"> + <span class="i0">"... When I remember all the friends so linked together</span><br /> + <span class="i0">... Fond memory brings the light of other days around me."</span></div> +</div> + +<p>I have been requested to give my recollection of a Victoria Christmas +in the good old days, as to how it was spent and conditions +generally. In the first place, in speaking of "the good old days" of +the sixties, I would not convey the impression that they were +literally so good, for they were, so far as I can remember, some of +the hardest that Victoria has seen.</p> + +<p>There is a something in recollections of the past that have been +pleasant that is indescribable. It is easier felt than described, and +I have no doubt is felt by many old-timers in this city to-day. Ask +them to describe these feelings and they would be nonplussed. "Mark +Twain" was written to by the pioneers of California inviting him to +come and speak of the early days of San Francisco, when he was +himself a pioneer of the Pacific. What his reply was I now forget, +but it was something to this effect: "Do you wish to see an old man +overcome and weep as he recalls those pioneer days?" These were a +few words of what he said in reply to that invitation. "The good +old days" may not have been the most prosperous, nor the happiest +that "Mark Twain" may have spent, but there was a something, a <span class="pagenum">p.154</span> +charm indescribable that he felt, but could not express. I feel +this way myself.</p> + +<p>It is Christmas and its surroundings in any age that help to make +these pleasing regrets. The incidents and the persons connected with +them are gone and can never be recalled. The friends we knew then, +whom we may have met at one of those Christmas gatherings, we see +them as they pass before our mental vision. Where are they all +to-day? The Quadra Street Cemetery might be able to tell, for each is +"in his narrow cell forever laid."</p> + +<p>I have rambled far enough, and it is time I got to my story.</p> + +<p>I would remark in passing that Christmas, to be genuine, should be +bright and frosty, with a flurry of snow, and this with walking +exercise makes the blood to flow freely, and makes one feel better +able to enjoy the festive occasion.</p> + +<p>Well, we had just such weather in those days, and such weather is +sadly lacking in these. Our climate has changed very much since then. +Less snow and cold and more rain now. Tinkle, tinkle, tinkle! The +merry sleigh bell! After the advent of the first snow, and when deep +enough, there might be heard the sleigh-bell, either on a grocer’s or +butcher’s sleigh, or on an improvised sleigh made from a dry-goods +case with a pair of runners attached, to which would be fastened a +pair of shafts from a buggy or wagon not now usable. Everyone who +owned a horse had a sleigh at little cost, and good use was made of +it while the snow lasted. Long drives in the country or to church, or +to a Christmas party or dance. I can see such a merry sleigh party +of young people, the girls well wrapped up peeping over their furs, +laughing and dodging the snowballs <span class="pagenum">p.155</span> thrown by a party of boys +around the corner, who are always waiting for the next one to +come along.</p> + +<div class="verse"> +<div class="stanza"> + <span class="i0">"Where is now the merry party I remember long ago,</span><br /> + <span class="i0">Laughing round the Christmas fire, brightened by its ruddy glow;</span><br /> + <span class="i0">Or in summer’s balmy evenings, in the field upon the hay?</span><br /> + <span class="i0">They have all dispersed and wandered, far away, far away!"</span></div> +</div> + +<p>We nearly all went to church—the Anglicans, and many Nonconformists +with them—on Christmas morning, and the Catholics on Christmas Eve. +But first of all there was the preparation for the event. About a +week before wagon-loads of young fir trees were brought in from the +outskirts, and every storekeeper and many householders procured +enough to decorate the front of the house or shop, a tree being tied +to each verandah post. In those days no shop was complete without its +wooden awning, as may be seen in many of the old photos of that +period. Imagine Government Street, both sides, from end to end, one +continuous line of green, relieved with, it might be, white; just +enough snow to cover the ground, "bright and crisp and even."</p> + +<p>I have often longed for such a Christmas in these degenerate times, +when rain is nearly always the order of the day. All the Christmas +shopping was done during Christmas week. The fancy goods stores of +those days were few—"Hibben & Carswell," "The London Bazaar," and +David Spencer. The former was then on Yates Street, corner of +Langley, and the other two in Government Street; and I must not +forget Thomas Gorrie on Fort Street. There was not the choice in toys +and fancy articles then. Children were satisfied with less, and were +just as happy. The beautiful and expensive <span class="pagenum">p.156</span> dolls then were of +wax, and being susceptible to frost, were taken great care of. The +butchers’ and grocers’ shops were then as now a great attraction +at Christmas, and we had all to pay one visit at least to Johnny +Stafford’s (afterwards Stafford & Goodacre), Thomas Harris’ two +shops, and Fred. Reynolds’, on the corner of Yates and Douglas, +and I doubt if a better show (for quality) is made to-day.</p> + +<p>At Christmas there was the usual influx of miners from far-off +Cariboo down to spend the winter in Victoria, with pockets well-lined +with nuggets. It was "easy come, easy go" with them, and liberal were +the purchases they made for their relations and friends.</p> + +<p>Christmas Eve, after dinner, mother or father or both with the +children were off to buy the last of the presents, visit the shops or +buy their Christmas dinner, for many left it till then. Turkey might +not have been within their reach, but geese, wild or tame, took their +place. Sucking pig was my favorite dish. Wild duck and grouse (fifty +cents per pair), with fine roasts of beef. Of course plum pudding was +in evidence with poor as well as rich, although eggs at Christmas +were one dollar per dozen.</p> + +<p>A great feature of Christmas time was shooting for turkeys and geese +at several outlying places, and raffles for turkeys at several of the +principal saloons and hotels. The place I best remember was the Brown +Jug, kept by Tommy Golden.</p> + +<p>A special feature of the saloons on Christmas Eve was "egg-nog," and +all we young fellows dropped in for a glass on our way to midnight +mass at the Catholic Church on Humboldt Street. It was one of +the attractions of Christmas Eve, and the church was filled to +overflowing, and later on there was standing room only. <span class="pagenum">p.157</span> We went +to hear the singing, which was best obtainable, Mademoiselle La +Charme, Mrs. A. Fellows (daughter of Sir Rowland Hill), Charles +Lombard, Mr. Wolff, and Mr. Schmidt. These were assisted by the +sisters, many of whom had nice voices. Amongst the well-dressed city +people were many Cariboo miners—trousers tucked in their boots, said +trousers held in position with a belt, and maybe no coat or vest on. +When the time came for the collection, all hands dug down in their +pockets and a generous collection was the result. My old friend, Tom +Burnes, was one of the collectors on one occasion. There were not +sufficient collecting plates, and Mr. Burnes took his hat and went +amongst the crowd who were standing up in the rear of the church. +As he passed through a group of miners, friend Tom was heard to +say, "Now, boys, be liberal," and the response was all that could +be desired; for, as I said before, it was "easy come, easy go." +"Twelve-thirty," service is over, we are off to bed, for we must be +up betimes in the morning for service at 11 o’clock.</p> + +<p>"When I remember all the friends so linked together," who met on +those Christmas mornings long ago, I think, how many are there left? +Those of the choir who led in the anthem, "And There Were Shepherds +Keeping Watch," and the hymns, "Christians, Awake," and "Hark, the +Herald Angels Sing." Of those who met at the church door afterwards +to shake hands all round, "A Merry Christmas," "The Compliments of +the Season," and many other good wishes—of all these a few are left, +amongst them Bishop Cridge, Senator and Mrs. Macdonald, Dr. Helmcken, +David W. Higgins, Judges Walkem and Drake, Mrs. Wootton, Charles +Hayward, Edward Dickinson, Mrs. Ella, Mr. and Mrs. George Richardson, +Mrs. Pemberton, and <span class="pagenum">p.158</span> Mrs. Jesse, and maybe a few others I cannot +now remember. Well, all things must come to an end, and so must this +reminiscence of an "Early Christmas in Victoria," and in closing I +wish all those mentioned here a "Happy Christmas and many of them."</p> + +<p>(Note.—Several of those mentioned are since dead.—E. F.)</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.159</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov19">CHAPTER XIX.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">THE QUEEN’S BIRTHDAY FORTY YEARS AGO.</p> + +<p>The reproduction of an item in the <i>Colonist</i> of "Forty Years +Ago," giving a list of the committee formed to prepare a programme +for the celebration of the Queen’s Birthday, called my attention to +the names of that committee. They are nearly all familiar. His +Worship the Mayor, I think, was Mr. Harris, who was our first mayor; +next follows Doctor Tolmie, chief factor of the Hudson’s Bay Company; +Wm. J. Macdonald, now senator; Lumley Franklin, was a prominent +citizen, an English Jew. There were two brothers, the elder being +named Selim. They were real estate brokers and auctioneers. Lumley +was a clever amateur actor and as a member of the Victoria Amateur +Dramatic Association he took a prominent part in all the +entertainments for charity in those days. John Wilkie was a Wharf +Street merchant. Mr. W. T. Drake was the late Judge Drake; D. B. Ring +was a prominent barrister, who, when not in court, might have been +seen walking about with a couple of dogs and a hunting crop under his +arm. He was one of the old school. Allan Francis, the first American +Consul to Victoria, a man liked by everyone; James A. McCrae, an +American auctioneer, and very fond of sport; Mr. T. Johnston was +manager for Findlay, Durham & Brodie; James Lowe, of Lowe Brothers, +Wharf Street, merchants; William Charles, chief factor of Hudson’s +Bay Company; <span class="pagenum">p.160</span> Captain Delacombe, in charge of the garrison on +San Juan Island; E. Grancini, hardware merchant, with whom Charles +Lombard was chief salesman; T. L. Stahlschmidt, of Findlay, Durham & +Brodie; Captain Stamp, a millman, representing an English company who +owned a large mill at Alberni; Godfrey Brown, late of Honolulu, a +clever member of the Victoria Amateur Dramatic Association. I might +mention this association had many very clever men as members, who +would have graced any stage. Mr. Higgins, with myself, have written +of the theatrical performances by this club in early days. Next is +A. R. Green, of Janion, Green & Rhodes, of Store Street; J. D. +Pemberton, colonial surveyor; J. C. Nicholson, who married pretty +Mary Dorman; George J. Findlay, of Findlay, Durham & Brodie; Francis +Garesche, of Garesche-Green’s Bank; C. W. R. Thomson, manager of the +Victoria Gas Works; George Pearkes, barrister; Lieutenants Brooks and +Hastings, of H.M.S. <i>Zealous</i>, the first ironclad to come into the +Pacific around Cape Horn, and Sheriff Elliott.</p> + +<p>This was a strong committee, for those days. All prominent men and +good workers.</p> + +<div class="imgright" id="img28"> +<img width="262" height="430" src="images/vi28.jpg" alt="[Portrait: Thomas Harris.]" /> +</div> + +<p>Beacon Hill was the head centre of sport, and far enough from town, +as nearly all of us walked. But all kinds of conveyances were brought +into requisition to take people out, especially from Esquimalt and +the country. We had to rely on the navy then as always. The two +livery stables of J. W. Williams, on the corner now occupied by Prior +& Co., and William G. Bowman, on Yates Street, where the Poodle Dog +stands, furnished busses and buggies, and large express wagons were +also improvised, seats being put in for the occasion. With my mind’s +eye I can see Thomas Harris, first mayor.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.161</p> + +<p>The chief event of the day was the horse races, and the mayor was an +enthusiastic horse-fancier and steward of the Jockey Club. These +attractions were nothing without Mr. Harris, coupled with Commander +Lascelles, of the gunboat <i>Forward</i>, a son of the Earl of +Harewood, and John Howard, of Esquimalt. The time for the first race +is near, the bell rings (John Butts was bellman), and the portly +figure of Mr. Harris on horseback appears. "Now, gentlemen, clear the +course," and there is a general scattering of people outside the +rails, and the horses with their gaily dressed jockeys canter past +the grandstand, make several false starts, then off they go. It is a +mile heat round the hill, best two out of three to win. Oh! what +exciting things these races were to us old-timers, who were satisfied +with a little. The grandstand stood due south of the flagpole, and +stood there for years after the races were held elsewhere. I must not +forget to mention the Millingtons, of Esquimalt, who always rode John +Howard’s horses at these meetings; they were born jockeys. I think +one of them still lives near Esquimalt. I would we had such Queen’s +weather now as we had then. May was then more like what July is now +for warmth, with beautiful clear skies; they were days worth +remembering. Everyone went out for the day, and whole families might +have been seen either riding in express wagons, busses, or trudging +along on foot, carrying baskets of provisions. Soon the hill was +covered with picnickers, as well as the surrounding woods. There was +plenty of good cheer and good-natured folk to dispense that cheer, +not only to their own, but to those who had not come provided. "Why, +how do you do, Mrs. Smith? Mr. Smith, how are you? You are just +in time. Make room for Mrs. Smith, John, alongside you; Annie +and <span class="pagenum">p.162</span> Mary can sit by Ellen. Oh, of course, you’ll lunch with us! +There, we are all ready now, so fall to!" This is a sample of the +good-heartedness of the old-timers. Everyone knew everybody, and all +were as one family.</p> + +<p>The navy was represented by bluejackets and marines by the hundreds. +Bands of music, Aunt Sally, and the usual side shows were there. Aunt +Sally was usually run by a lot of sailors, or soldiers, with faces +painted like circus clowns, and dressed in motley garments. "Now, +ladies and gents, walk up and ’ave a shy at Aunt Sally; the dear old +girl don’t mind being ’it a bit; she is so good-natured; that’s a +right h’excellent shot that, ’ave another try." The same scene was +likely being enacted some distance off with "Punch and Judy," and you +may be sure that "Jack" was principal in this show as well, for where +there is fun there Jack is. I must not forget the music. Outside the +local band there was always a naval band, of a flagship usually, such +as the <i>Ganges</i> or <i>Sutlej</i>, which were "three-deckers," +line-o’-battleships which would have put an ordinary battleship to +blush. It was supposed that the officers subscribed to the band fund, +and as there were many officers on a large ship, and well-to-do at +that, they had good music. The <i>Ganges</i> band was something worth +hearing, about twenty-four strong. It was often heard in Victoria, +either at a naval funeral or at some public function. The navy was +the mainspring of Victoria in more ways than one. They took part in +all public functions, furnishing music, help and flags, and by their +presence in uniform brightened up and lent grace to the affair. Do we +realize how great a loss their absence to the city is? We ought to +have found out the difference by now. The races are over, the day’s +celebration is near its end. <span class="pagenum">p.163</span> Some of those who came early with +children are tired out and have gone home, others will soon follow, +as a general packing up of baskets is going on. "Jack" no longer +calls on the passerby to have a shy at Old Aunt Sally, Punch has +killed his wife and baby for the last time. Parties of bluejackets +are moving off with one playing a tin whistle, to which some are +singing. The day draws to a close, and in the words of the immortal +Gray, "Now fades the glimmering landscape on the sight," and I +close this recital of echoes of a past—Queen’s Birthday forty odd +years ago.</p> + +<p>Through the kindness of Mr. Albert H. Maynard I am enabled to produce +an old picture of Beacon Hill during a celebration.</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img29"> +<img width="532" height="443" src="images/vi29.jpg" alt="[Illustration: Queen‘s birthday, Beacon Hill.]" /> +</div> + +<p>The following account of the regatta during the celebration of the +Queen’s Birthday appears in the <i>British Colonist</i> of May 25th, +1868:</p> + +<p>"The first of the festivities forming a part of the celebration of +the forty-ninth celebration of Queen Victoria’s Birthday took place +on Saturday, and was in every respect a great success. The day, +although warmer than usual, was well suited for the picnic parties +which occupied the banks of our beautiful Arm, all the way from the +bridge to the Gorge. It is estimated that there were one thousand +persons assembled altogether. Early in the morning the town bore a +most lively appearance, flags were flying from all the principal +buildings and the shipping, and by half-past ten the streets were +full of well-dressed persons wending their way to the Hudson’s Bay +Company’s wharf, where the steam launch and barges of the <i>Zealous</i> +were placed at the disposal of the Committee by the Admiral to convey +them up the Arm. The managing committee were here represented by +Messrs. Stuart and Franklin, <span class="pagenum">p.164</span> whose arrangements were admirable. +From the wharf to the Gorge the Arm wore a most animated appearance. +From Her Majesty’s gunboat <i>Forward</i>, all decked in colors, which +took up her position near the bridge, down to the meanest craft, the +water was covered with boats laden with people full of merriment and +joy. From Curtis’ Point, where the barges delivered their living +freight, the scene was really enchanting. An arch of flags spanning +the water, the high banks covered with tents, the bridge and every +spot on both sides of the Arm crowded with people, and the roads +lined with equestrians, amongst whom were many ladies, gave the +happiest effect to the whole scene. We cannot recall a single +celebration which was more appreciated or enjoyable than our regatta +of Saturday. Much of this success, it must not be forgotten, must +be attributed to the gracious manner in which Admiral Hastings +co-operated with the committee to secure the comfort and convenience +of the public, and without which kindness and attention the day would +have been shorn of most of its enjoyment. Owing to the severe illness +of His Excellency the Governor he was prevented from being present. +We observed Mrs. Seymour, Mrs. Hills, the Admiral, Sir James Douglas +and family, the Chief Justice, Colonial Secretary, officers of +the fleet and several of the principal officials and families. +A more universal assemblage was never known; clergymen of every +denomination, men of all politics, people of all nations, rich and +poor, in fact, mingled together freely, forgetting the sectional and +social differences which divide them, acted as became the occasion, +that of honoring the monarch whose virtues are an example to +the world. The racing was not so successful as last year, but, +nevertheless, <span class="pagenum">p.165</span> was good, and under the management of Mr. Hastings +and Mr. Kelly gave perfect satisfaction.</p> + +<p>"The amusements concluded by a duck hunt, but the men were not seen +by more than a dozen people; it may be considered the only failure of +the day. We must not omit to mention that two new racing gigs were +built for the occasion, respectively by Mr. Trahey and Mr. +Lachapelle, boat builders, who take the greatest interest in the +regattas, and spare nothing to make them successful. These boats were +both defeated in their maiden races, but the design and workmanship +of the <i>Zealous</i> and <i>Amateur</i>, it is said, would reflect +credit on any country."</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.166</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov20">CHAPTER XX.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">EVOLUTION OF THE VICTORIA POST-OFFICE.</p> + +<div class="imgright" id="img30"> +<img width="262" height="424" src="images/vi30.jpg" alt="[Portrait: Henry Wootton.]" /> +</div> + +<p>I have before me at the present moment the envelope of an old letter. +It was received from England in 1863 by my father. The three stamps +on it show a value of 34 cents—one shilling, one fourpence and one +penny. It is only a single letter, and a small one at that. In fact, +if it were any larger it would have had more postage on it. Just +think of the difference between now and then. The first postmaster I +remember in Victoria was J. D’ewes. Something went wrong with the +finances during his incumbency and he suddenly disappeared with a +large sum for a more congenial clime (Australia, I think). D’ewes had +one clerk to assist him in the work of the post-office, by name J. M. +Morrison. He was succeeded by Mr. Henry Wootton, father of Stephen +Wootton, registrar-general, and Edward Wootton, the barrister. Mrs. +Wootton, senior, is still with us, hale and hearty, I am glad to say. +The late J. M. Sparrow was also connected with the early Victoria +post-office with Mr. Wootton. I well remember when the post-office +was on Government Street, opposite the C. P. R. telegraph office, in +a small wooden structure with a verandah in front, as was the fashion +in those days for all business places. I also remember it when it was +on Wharf Street, north of the Hudson’s Bay Company’s store, occupying +the lower floor, while Edward <span class="pagenum">p.167</span> B. Marvin’s sail-loft occupied the +upper. The staff then consisted of Mr. Wootton and J. M. Sparrow, as +before stated, with occasional extra assistants, say on the arrival +of an English mail, which came then via the Isthmus of Panama and San +Francisco. The "whole staff" had to work hard then, and long hours, +even into the morning. I have seen a line of letter hunters reaching +from the post-office up Wharf Street nearly to Yates, waiting for +the mail to be sorted and the wicket to open. I especially remember +one evening in 1865. The San Francisco steamer had arrived in the +afternoon at Esquimalt, and at eight o’clock there had not been a +letter delivered, although the staff had worked like beavers to get +the mails sorted. The mails from Europe arrived about twice a month, +and not regularly at that. The <i>Colonist</i> would state that "there +was no mail again," but that it might be expected to-morrow. It was +a day of importance when it did arrive, and people naturally were +anxious to get their letters, even if it necessitated their standing +in the street in line, maybe at ten o’clock at night. Many a time a +dollar has been paid for a favorable place in line near the wicket by +someone whose time was considered too valuable to spend in waiting +for his turn.</p> + +<p>A good deal of banter was indulged in by those in line. The +anticipation of their hearing from friends at home made them +good-natured, and brought out the best that was in them. And, oh! +when the wicket was at last opened, distribution commenced and the +line moved on and up, there was a shout of joy and satisfaction. +Those were memorable days in Victoria’s history, the good old days of +long ago.</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img31"> +<img width="560" height="311" src="images/vi31.jpg" alt="[Illustration: Drawing of Government St. with old Bastion.]" /> +</div> + +<p>I remember again when the post-office was on Government Street again, +this time where Weiler Brothers’ <span class="pagenum">p.168</span> building now stands, still in +wood, and in no more pretentious a building than the former ones. +From there it was moved again up Government Street to the old site, +opposite the C. P. R. telegraph office, until that place got too +small, and a final move was made to its present location, and a large +addition is soon to be made to keep pace with the rapid growth of +the city. Letters were an expensive luxury in the early days, as +this table of rates will show: To send a half ounce letter to Great +Britain cost 34¢., British North American provinces 20¢., France +50¢., Germany 40¢., Holland 57¢., Norway 56¢., Portugal 68¢., Sweden +52¢., and San Francisco 15¢. Most of the letters from the latter +place were received by Wells Fargo’s express, and cost, I think, 3¢., +and special charge of 25¢. on each letter. I have already described +the receipt of Wells Fargo’s express from Esquimalt in the early +times, and how John Parker, now of Metchosin, used to meet the +steamer at Esquimalt. When she was expected their messenger, whose +name was Miller, and a colored man, used to watch from Church Hill, +and on her being sighted at Race Rocks the express flag was hoisted +in front of their office on Yates Street to let the citizens know the +fact. Before the steamer made a landing the letter-bags were thrown +ashore to John Parker, and fastened on his horse, then off he +galloped to Victoria, the horse being covered with sweat on arrival +at the express office, where the letters were called off by Colonel +Pendergast, or Major Gillingham, to a crowded audience.</p> + +<p>On the death of Mr. Wootton, I believe Mr. Robert Wallace was the +next to fill the position, which he did for some years. When he +retired he went to his former home in Scotland. On his retirement the +position was offered to the present incumbent, Mr. Noah Shakespeare, <span class="pagenum">p.169</span> +who so ably fills it. I might say, to show the growth of the +post-office in this city since Mr. Wootton’s time, when he with two +assistants carried on the work, that to-day the staff, including +letter-carriers, numbers forty-eight.</p> + +<p>The registered parcels and letters for last year were just twice the +year before, with a large increase in money orders, and to show the +large increase in letters in one evening at Christmas, twelve +thousand were received and cancelled in the post-office.</p> + +<p>In conclusion I would ask, were not letters which cost 34¢. postage +in those days more appreciated than a lot of letters now at 2¢. each? +It is the old story over again, that a thing easy to get is thought +little of.</p> + +<p>I might say this article was written in May, 1908, and at the present +writing, December, 1911, the volume of business of the Victoria +post-office has increased nearly fifty per cent.—that is, in three +years. It might be interesting to note that of the present staff Mr. +Thomas Chadwick, in charge of the money order office, is senior in +years of service, having joined the staff in 1880. Next comes Mr. +Charles Finlaison, 1882, and Mr. James Smith, 1887. The deputy +postmaster, Mr. T. A. Cairns, joined the staff in Winnipeg in 1880, +and the Victoria staff in 1882. Mr. Shakespeare, postmaster, has been +head of the department here since 1888.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.170</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov21">CHAPTER XXI.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">FIFTY YEARS AGO.</p> + +<p>It is said, and I think truthfully, that youthful impressions are +more lasting than any others. This is my own experience, for my mind +is stored with early reminiscences. It is verified by no less a +person than my dear old friend, Bishop Cridge, who told me quite +recently that he well remembered an incident that occurred to him +when he was between three and four years old—that of a regiment of +soldiers passing through his native village, and of his following +them quite a distance from his home, and of the distress of his +family on discovering his absence. In a long life of ninety-one years +this is, I think, remarkable. Well, this is not the subject of my +present writing. It is to give my impressions of this fair city fifty +years ago, as I remember it as a child.</p> + +<p>To-day fifty years ago I landed with my parents and brothers on the +Hudson’s Bay Company’s wharf, having arrived from San Francisco on +the steamer <i>Northerner</i>, which docked at Esquimalt, as all +large ocean steamers then did. We came from Esquimalt on a small +steamer, the <i>Emma</i>, or <i>Emily Harris</i>. The latter steamer +was built, I think, by Thomas Harris, and named after his daughter, +Mrs. William Wilson, whom I am pleased to know is still a resident +with her family. The scene will ever be impressed on my mind as I saw +my future home on that 12th day of February, 1859. Outside Johnson <span class="pagenum">p.171</span> +Street on the north, Blanchard Street on the east, and the north end +of James Bay bridge on the south, everything else was country—oak +and pine trees, with paths only, otherwise trails made by Indians and +cattle. Within this wood under the oaks were wildflowers of all kinds +in profusion. Through these woods and by these paths I went day by +day to the old Colonial School on the site of the present Central. +With the exception of private schools kept by the late Edward +Mallandaine, and another kept by the late John Jessop, our school +supplied the wants of the time. It was built of squared logs, +whitewashed, and was the residence of the master as well. It was +situated in the middle of a large tract of land which is to-day used +for school purposes. The school was built in the middle of a grove +of oaks, and there could not have been a more beautiful spot. Under +these oaks we boys and girls (alas, how few are left), sat at noon +and ate our lunch, or rested after a game of ball, or "hunt the +hounds." Those were happy days in their rustic simplicity, and so +will those say who remain to-day, fifty years later. There are +several living here in the still fair city of Victoria, but how many +have gone to that bourne whence no traveller yet returned?</p> + +<p>We made what would now be considered a pretty long trip from San +Francisco, eleven days. Just think of it, long enough to have gone to +Europe. We passed on and out of the east gate on to Fort Street. How +strange it all looked to me after the large city of San Francisco. As +I have before stated, nearly the whole block from the Brown Jug +corner to Broad Street was an orchard. I "borrowed" apples from this +orchard later on, and good they tasted, and like stolen sweets were +sweetest. Fort Street from Government up was a quagmire of <span class="pagenum">p.172</span> mud, +this street not having been paved, as it was later, with boulders +from the beach and with a top layer of gravel or pebbles, also from +the beach. The sidewalk on the Five Sisters’ side of the street was +made of slabs, round side up, and was very slippery in wet weather. +This I have from my brother. I can remember the other side of the +street was made of two boards laid lengthwise.</p> + +<p>Douglas Street had many tents on it, as well as did Johnson. Where +the Five Sisters’ block stands was a log house, set back from the +street. This was the company’s bakery, where I used to go for bread +at 25¢. a loaf (about four pounds). There was not a brick building on +the west side of Government Street save the residence of Thomas +Harris on the corner of Bastion. His daughter, Mrs. Wilson, with a +large family, is with us to-day. This building was afterward +converted into the Bank of British Columbia.</p> + +<div class="imgright" id="img32"> +<img width="265" height="449" src="images/vi32.jpg" alt="[Portrait: George Richardson.]" /> +</div> + +<p>The only brick building on the east side was the Victoria Hotel, now +the Windsor, the first brick building in Victoria, constructed by +George Richardson, still a resident. Where the B. C. Market is now +was a neat cottage built of squared logs whitewashed, with green door +and window casings. It was the residence of Dr. Johnson of the +company’s service. The corner now occupied by the Bank of Commerce +and the C. P. R. offices was vacant lots, and there were many other +vacant lots on that side of Government Street, both north and south. +There was a lake on View Street above Quadra, with good duck shooting +in winter. Fort Street from the corner of Douglas Street east was +blank, with the exception of a lot of Hudson’s Bay Company’s barns, +set back in the block. This was, I believe, the site of a farm before +1858, for there were so many evidences of <span class="pagenum">p.173</span> it when I played in +these barns as a child, often helping, as I thought, to unload hay +for the cattle which were kept here in the winter.</p> + +<p>A deep ravine ran east and west between Johnson and Pandora Streets +into Victoria harbor. This ravine was bridged at Store, Government +and Douglas Streets, behind Porter’s building. There were only two +wharves in the harbor south of the bridge to the Indian reserve. Over +this bridge all traffic passed to Esquimalt and surrounding country +until Point Ellice bridge was built.</p> + +<p>The Songhees reserve was covered with Indian lodges, and the Indians +were numbered by hundreds. At times of feasts, when they had a +potlatch, or at the making of a "medicine-man," the reserve was a +lively place and the noise deafening with their yells, both day and +night. It was unsafe to go there at night when these celebrations +were held. Many outrages were committed on passers-by by Indians when +in a state of drunkenness.</p> + +<p>Over James Bay to what is now the outer dock, was a forest of pines +and oak trees, with very few residences. With all this rustic +simplicity we lived and enjoyed the passing hour. We have many things +now we did not dream of then; not knowing of them we did not miss +them, and were just as happy without them. I might conclude thus +with:</p> + +<div class="verse"> +<div class="stanza"> + <span class="i0">"Victoria, the sweetest village of the west,</span><br /> + <span class="i0">Scene of my youth, I love thee best."</span></div> +</div> + +<p class="pagenum">p.174</p> + + + +<h3 id="rov22">CHAPTER XXII.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">FORTY YEARS AGO.</p> + +<p class="dateline">April, 1908.</p> + +<p>Sir,—I am always interested in "Forty Years Ago." It brings back to +me food for thought, especially of late, when so many old-timers have +passed away. Before commenting on the <i>Colonist’s</i> "Forty Years +Ago" in Saturday’s issue, I would remark that I expected mention to +have been made in the article on the late R. S. Byrn, that he was a +newspaper man for some years. I remember Mr. Byrn as bookkeeper for +the <i>Standard</i>, under Amor De Cosmos, forty-two years ago, +seeing him every day, as the <i>Standard</i> office was next door to +my father’s store on Government Street, opposite Trounce Avenue. The +<i>Standard</i>, like the <i>Colonist</i>, was started by Amor De +Cosmos. The first item of interest on Saturday is the sailing of the +steamer <i>Enterprise</i> for New Westminster (she made only two +trips a week); among her passengers were Chief Justice Needham, Rev. +E. White (the pioneer minister of the Wesleyan Church in Victoria), +and R. Holloway. The latter is connected with the government +<i>Gazette</i> to-day.</p> + +<p>The next item announces the first cricket match of the season at +Beacon Hill. The Victoria eleven are Charles Clark, a clever amateur +actor who helped to make a success of the various entertainments our +club <span class="pagenum">p.175</span> gave for charity in these days; E. Dewdney, afterwards +Governor; —. Walker, a prominent barrister of those days; Joseph +Wilson, of the firm of W. & J. Wilson; Josiah Barnett, cashier of +the McDonald Bank; C. Guerra, a remittance man; C. Green, of Janion, +Green & Rhodes; Thomas Tye, of Mathews, Richard & Tye; John Howard, +of Esquimalt; Gold Commissioner Ball, and last though not least, +Judge Drake. A cricket match in those days was always able to draw a +crowd, being the ball game of the day. In this match the name does +not appear of a Mr. Richardson, who was a professional player and at +least an extra fine player, who came here about that time with a +visiting team. He is still in Victoria, as I saw him quite lately.</p> + +<p>Among the passengers by the steamer <i>California</i> for San +Francisco, I note Rev. Dr. Evans, of the Methodist Church, and +family; C. C. Pendergast, in charge of Wells Fargo’s bank and +express, an important institution then; J. H. Turner, (Hon.) William +Lawson, of the Bank of British North America, and brother of James H. +Lawson; R. P. Rithet & Co., Mr. and Mrs. Pidwell, whose daughter Mr. +Higgins married; John Glassey, an uncle of Mr. T. P. McConnell; J. S. +Drummond, father of Mrs. Magill; Richard Broderick, the coal dealer, +and wife, and Mrs. Zelner, whose husband kept a drug store where the +B. C. Market now is. It will be noted that a number of people +assembled on the wharf to see their friends off. I might say that +this was the usual thing in those days. Even some business places +would be closed while the proprietor went to the wharf to say +good-bye to a relative or friend.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.176</p> + +<h4 class="sc">An Incident of the Mystic Spring.</h4> + +<p>Sir,—In Thursday’s paper in the "Forty Years Ago" column I note the +account given of the suicide of a young girl at Cadboro Bay. An +interesting account is given in the "Mystic Spring" by my friend, Mr. +Higgins. Poor girl! It was another case of unrequited affection. I +knew Miss Booth well, being of my own age. We had met on many +occasions at picnics and dances and at other festivities. On the +memorable afternoon cited I saw her walking on the Cadboro Bay Road +from town just ahead of me, and I hurried and caught up and accosted +her, asking where she was off to. She was then more than three miles +from home, which was on the Esquimalt Road. She replied in the most +cheerful manner, with a smile: "Oh, I’m going for a walk to Cadboro +Bay." I remarked on the long distance she was from home, to which she +replied, and passed on. Little did I think then that she was on her +way to her death, and in so cool and collected a manner. My memory +has been freshened lately by my brother, as to the circumstances +attending the sad affair. Miss Booth was one of three sisters who +lived with their father and mother, as before stated, on Esquimalt +Road. She had become acquainted with a young gentleman who afterward +became an M.P. at Ottawa, and this acquaintance ripened into +something stronger, so much so that she fell in love with him, and +showed it so pointedly that he, as well as others, could not well +help noticing it. He did not reciprocate her affection, and I believe +told her so, and like an honest man avoided her. This in time was too +much for her and she took the fatal course which ended in her +drowning herself near the "Mystic Spring."</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.177</p> + +<p>Being the last to see her in life, and knowing her so well, I +tendered my evidence at the coroner’s inquest. I might say that the +family shortly afterwards moved to Ladner’s Landing, and the two +sisters married there, and part of the family still reside in that +vicinity. This ends another little episode of forty years ago. This +is for those who may remember the sad occurrence and the interest +taken in the poor girl’s sad fate at the time.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.178</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov23">CHAPTER XXIII.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">THE LATE GOVERNOR JOHNSON.</p> + +<div class="imgright" id="img33"> +<img width="266" height="437" src="images/vi33.jpg" alt="[Portrait: John H. Johnson.]" /> +</div> + +<p>To the Editor,—As I sit writing, my eyes rest on the picture of the +subject of these few remarks. This picture was sent to me with an +autograph letter by Governor John Johnson, of Minnesota, four years +ago, under these circumstances. In a magazine I was reading, as I lay +in bed with typhoid fever, I came across an article written by a +life-long friend of this good and great man. Of his early boyhood to +the time when he was elected Governor of Minnesota, what an example +he was to the youth of that day as well as this. The short sketch ran +thus: John Johnson was the eldest, I think, of four children. His +father was a blacksmith and a good mechanic. Both father and mother +were Swedes. Although a good mechanic, he developed into a lazy, bad +man, who neglected his wife and children, and eventually landed in +the poorhouse. Being left to themselves, the mother took in washing, +and after school, John, the eldest, took home the clothes and took +out parcels for a tradesman. John was thus able to help to keep the +family. He was ambitious, wanted to learn, attended night school for +that purpose, engaged with a chemist, gave it up, went into a +lawyer’s office, then into politics, and after filling several +important positions got elected Governor of his native state. What I +admired in John Johnson was his devotion to his mother, brother and +sisters; also his self-denial. What would <span class="pagenum">p.179</span> you think of an alpaca +coat to resist the rigors of a Minnesota winter? Well, John, by +working at night in various ways saved up enough to buy an overcoat, +he having none, and having to be out late at night delivering the +clothes his mother had washed during the day. Through unforeseen +demands on his mother’s earnings the poor boy was forced to give up +the overcoat and hand over the hard-earned money for something he +thought was wanted more, and went through the winter with nothing +warmer than an alpaca jacket. I cannot but believe that these +hardships laid the foundation for a delicate constitution, and every +time I looked at his picture hanging in my dining-room I thought, +"How delicate he looks; will he live to be an old man?" I was so +taken with the story of his early life, his trials bravely endured, +and his final triumph, that I wrote to him and congratulated him +on his election. This election was a great victory for him, as his +opponents used the fact against him that his father had been an +inmate of the poorhouse and had died there a pauper, to defeat him. +These disgraceful tactics were repudiated by many of his opponents, +who showed they did so by voting against their own candidate and for +John Johnson. This gain of votes from his opponents elected him by a +good majority. Well, I told him in my letter that I was a British +subject living in Victoria, Canada, and as such I congratulated him +on his victory, that I was glad his old mother was alive to see his +triumph, and that she should be proud, and no doubt was proud, of +such a son.</p> + +<p>In due course he replied, and also sent me his photo, which, as I +said before, I had framed and hung up in my dining-room as an +object-lesson for all of how a good and noble son made a good and +noble man. There is room for many more such in this world.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.180</p> + +<p>To show the respect and love of the people for this good and great +man, I have added the account of his burial. The late Governor +Johnson paid a visit to Victoria about a year before his death, and I +am sorry I was not aware of the fact until it was too late, as I +should have esteemed it an honor to have shaken hands with him:</p> + +<p>"St. Paul, Minn., Sept. 23.—While the body of Governor John A. +Johnson, of Minnesota, was being lowered into its grave this +afternoon all industrial activity in the state was stopped for five +minutes as a tribute to the memory of the dead Governor.</p> + +<p>"The body, which had been lying in state in the rotunda of the +capitol since yesterday, where it was guarded by officers and +privates of the state militia, was taken to the railroad station at +9.15 this morning, escorted by ten companies of militia, preceded by +a band of one hundred pieces.</p> + +<p>"At the station the body was placed <a id="emen5">aboard</a> a special train which left +for St. Peter, Minn., where interment took place this afternoon at +three o’clock. The funeral services were held in the St. Peter +Presbyterian Church, where Johnson sang in the choir when a boy. +While the services were in progress at St. Peter’s, memorial services +were held in all the churches in Minneapolis and St. Paul. The public +schools are closed to-day, and the whole state is in mourning."</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.181</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov24">CHAPTER XXIV.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">A TRIP TO A CORAL ISLAND.</p> + +<p>The Ladrone Islands, which from time immemorial have belonged to +Spain, now, as is well known, belong to the United States. There is a +cable station on the chief island, Guam. The Ladrone Islands lie off +the coast of the Philippines, and are about three thousand miles from +the Hawaiian Islands in a west-southwest direction. The Island of +Guam has about five thousand inhabitants, mostly Philipinos, natives, +Chinese and Europeans. Guam, with its sandy beach, its cocoanut trees +and coral strand, puts one much in mind of the coral islands of story +books, where an open boat with boys of various ages have landed from +some wrecked vessel, and lived on fish, berries and cocoanuts, not +forgetting wild pigs and goats. Altogether it is typical of what all +boys read and would like to read again.</p> + +<p>The coins used in trade are all Spanish, mostly of copper, but silver +is also used. The natives make mats, just such as our natives used to +make years ago in British Columbia, so finely woven as to hold water. +Water is carried in the Ladrone Islands in bamboos, the divisions +being cut out, and the whole bamboo filled with water and carried on +the shoulder. The usual vehicle is a two-wheeled cart, drawn by a +bull with long horns, the reins being fastened to the horns; certain +pulls on each horn turn him to left or right. They trot along like +ponies. The ruins exist of a Spanish church <span class="pagenum">p.182</span> at Agana, over a +hundred years old, the bells belonging to it being hung in a low +tower near by.</p> + +<p>Since the American occupation the natives have taken to baseball as a +recreation.</p> + +<p>It is an interesting sight to see the native women wash clothes. They +stand in a stream up to their waists, and after soaping the clothes, +they pound them with a stone, or else take one end of the garment in +both hands and dash the other end up against a rock or board. The +natives have adopted a great many of the old Spanish customs among +themselves, including cock-fighting, which sport is carried on every +Sunday and holiday. Every man has his trained fighting-cock, and they +take great interest in the sport, staking large sums on their birds. +They lash sharp, razor-like knives on the birds’ spurs, and the fight +seldom lasts more than a few minutes, and generally ends in one of +them being ripped up.</p> + +<p>The native huts have always the roof and sometimes the walls covered +with palm leaves, which are impervious to rain, and will last about +five years, when they have to be renewed. The floor is generally +covered with rough boards, far enough off the ground to make a +chicken-house underneath, or else room to tie up a bull or cariboo, +or to put the bull-cart under.</p> + +<p>One of the chief exports of the island is copra, which is the meat of +the cocoanut, picked and dried at a certain stage of its growth. In +front of nearly every native hut can be seen copra drying on mats, +and it is always taken in at night away from the dew. It is used to +make shredded cocoanut, cocoanut oil, soap and other things, and the +natives get about two and a half cents a pound for it.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.183</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov25">CHAPTER XXV.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">A VICTORIAN’S VISIT TO SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA.</p> + +<p>We left Victoria March 2nd via Seattle for San Francisco and Los +Angeles by the good steamer <i>Governor</i>. We arrived at San +Francisco Sunday, March 6th, after a rather rough trip, on which I +did not miss a meal. After breakfast Mrs. F. and I, with three +fellow-passengers, went to Sutro Heights and then to Golden Gate +Park. The seals were still sleeping on the rocks or bobbing about in +the water as of old. Sutro’s gardens were a disappointment, as they +seemed to have been allowed to go to decay. Of all the beautiful +statuary representing the gods and goddesses of ancient Greece and +Rome, all were in a state of dilapidation—arms, legs and heads +broken off and covered with moss and dirt. Many of the glass houses +in the gardens were in a like state. We did not stay long there, but +took cars for Golden Gate Park, which is kept up by the Government +and everything is kept in a perfect state of repair. Beautiful +avenues of tropical trees, flowers in profusion, statues of public +men of the past, and then the museum. This had the most attractions +for me, as there were many interesting things to inspect, of which +more anon. On the down trip we took on board at San Francisco a party +of seven gentlemen who were going to Los Angeles for a holiday, +consisting of a judge, a lawyer, a doctor, a manager of an +electric light company, two <span class="pagenum">p.184</span> merchants, and last but not least, a +blacksmith, all members of a singing society. These gentlemen gave +us several most enjoyable little concerts. We arrived at Redondo on +March 8th and took cars for Los Angeles soon after arrival, and were +in Los Angeles about two o’clock. I must confess I was not impressed +with San Francisco, for while there were some very handsome, ornate +and very high buildings, especially in the burned area and on Market +Street, there were alongside the new buildings the cellars of former +fine buildings filled with debris of the buildings destroyed by +quake or fire, also whole blocks boarded up and covered with +advertisements, behind which were piles of broken masonry and twisted +steel. I went along Montgomery to Kearney Street, up Clay to Powell +and found very little change from what I left in 1859. The Plaza did +not seem the least altered.</p> + +<p>In 1855 my brother one day remarked that the street above Powell had +had no name long enough, and, as we lived in it, he took the liberty +of naming it. There was a box with "Taylor’s" soap or candles printed +on the cover lying on the ground, and taking a saw he cut the Taylor +in two, nailing "Tay" up on the corner house. Strange to say, it is +"Tay" Street to-day, after fifty-five years, but instead of being on +the house it is painted on a lamp-post. Clay Street had the honor of +having the first cable street cars, but I did not see any on my late +visit.</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img34"> +<img width="385" height="281" src="images/vi34.jpg" alt="[Portrait: Park in San Bernardino.]" /> +</div> + +<p>It seemed to me as if it would be a long time ere San Francisco would +be like it was before the earthquake. A party of us went out to +Golden Gate Park, but days might have been profitably spent in +the gardens and museum, and on account of lack of time we could +only partly inspect the many interesting things to be seen at <span class="pagenum">p.185</span> +the latter place, so I reserved a further inspection till my +return home, which account will be given later on.</p> + +<p>If I was disappointed with San Francisco I was more than pleased with +Los Angeles, for several reasons—the most important being that it is +the starting-point for so many trips into the most beautiful places, +of which a deal might be said, more than I have time to say just now. +Los Angeles is said to contain 320,000, and likely it does, for the +traffic is more congested in the principal streets than in San +Francisco. I was told it would be so hot in Los Angeles that I took a +light suit and straw hat to wear there, but I found it just such +weather as we get in June, and I did not change my winter clothes or +wear the straw hat at all, and when going out after dinner I wore my +overcoat, being warned that I ran the risk of taking cold if I did +not. The theatres of Los Angeles are many and good. The restaurants +and cafeterias are both good and reasonable in price. It took us some +time to get used to the cafeterias’ way of doing business. Imagine a +line fifty feet long—men, women and children—waiting their turn to +get their knife and fork, dessert and teaspoons, napkin and tray; +then just such food and drinks as you may fancy, from bread 1c., to +meats, 10c. to 25c. When your tray is loaded, you pass on to the +woman who checks up what you have and gives you the price on a +celluloid check, which, on going out, you hand to the cashier and +pay. It is said that you can get used to anything in time, and we +soon got used to this and found it popular with all, for these +cafeterias are always full, the food being excellent.</p> + +<p>We patronized a vegetarian cafe often, where every thing was made +from vegetables, no tea or coffee allowed, these drinks being +considered unwholesome.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.186</p> + +<p>The abomination of Los Angeles is its automobiles and motor cycles, +which I blessed many times a day. They say there are hundreds—I +should say thousands—of them and they are always in evidence, day +and night, and what with the number of cars, it was impossible to +cross the streets at times, and it was surprising the narrow escapes +I had. My attention was drawn to the height of the sidewalks, they +often being twelve and fifteen inches above the road. It was soon +explained, for a few days later, on going to the theatre, it rained, +and three hours later, going home, the streets were running rivers of +water, and we had to walk up and down to find a narrow place to get +over to the sidewalk. The streets having high crowns, the water, of +course, runs to the gutters, and often boards have to be laid from +the sidewalk across the gutters to get over these torrents. The next +morning, the rain storm being over, the streets were clear of water. +It is the custom here to wash the streets down at night, so that they +are always clean. They are made of asphalt, and in Pasadena of a +composition of asphalt and fine stone or gravel, and are also treated +with crude oil. As part of our time was spent in Pasadena, I have +something to say of that most beautiful of all southern cities. It is +about a half hour’s run from Los Angeles, and you pass scores of +pretty bungalows on the way, as well as stretches of country covered +with very low green hills with cattle feeding. Pasadena is termed the +"home of millionaires." Well, if handsome houses, grounds, trees and +flowers make a millionaire’s home, it is rightly named. Fine roads +run in every direction past these lovely plains, and you are +overpowered at times with the smell of orange blossoms as you pass +through miles of orange orchards or groves.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.187</p> + +<p>Among the beautiful homes is that of Judge Spinks, surrounded by +beautiful trees of all kinds, as well as an orange garden, where +after a long auto ride we received the hospitality of Mrs. Spinks and +Mrs. and Miss Clapham, and carried off a supply of oranges enough for +a week. The many friends of Judge and Mrs. Spinks will be glad to +know that his health has greatly improved since residing there.</p> + +<p>Passing the orange trees one day in the cars I noticed in the +distance that the ground instead of being black or green was golden +for quite a distance ahead and on drawing near found it to be caused +by oranges, which completely covered up the surface of the soil, and +was in fact the product of that grove picked and lying on the ground.</p> + +<p>What might be considered the finest place in Pasadena is the Busch +estate; the grounds are a wonder in artistic taste and extent, and +are to be added to, a large piece of ground having been recently +bought by Mr. Busch for that purpose. The grounds are open to the +public at all times, and his residence also at stated times. He is +the head of the Anheuser-Busch beer concern. I might state what is a +well-known fact, that they don’t believe in fences down there. I have +not seen one yet. All these lovely places are open to the road. You +walk off the sidewalk to the house everywhere. Flowers grow even in +the street, alongside the walk, and are cultivated by those whose +property faces them. Speaking of trees, I must mention that they have +the greatest variety of shade trees to be seen anywhere. The tall +eucalyptus, imported from Australia, is seen by thousands, and the +beautiful pepper tree of Chili or Peru. This tree was my favorite, +looking something between a weeping willow and an acacia, but growing +much taller, with its red <span class="pagenum">p.188</span> berries in bunches showing clearly on +the green. Then the palms with their spreading branches or stems! +Of these latter, we saw a pair that the gentleman informed me he had +brought home in a coal oil tin sixteen years ago, and to-day the +trunks were twenty inches thick and the trees spread over a surface +of twenty-five feet, leaving a passage between to walk up to the +front of the house. There are avenues of these beautiful trees in the +various parks in Los Angeles, Pasadena and Riverside. Further, in the +matter of trees I would draw a comparison between the authorities of +these southern towns and our own municipal authorities. When making +new roads or drives, they find a fine tree growing on the road; +instead of cutting it down as our vandals do, they leave it there and +protect it, and I saw a notable example of this, when three men were +treating or doctoring a veteran growing on the road which showed +signs of dying, and they were doing all that could be done to save +its life and keep it there. As we wandered about admiring all this +beauty in nature we came to an extra pretty place, and the impulse +took hold of me to have a nearer view; to if possible get permission +to pick an orange and some blossoms to send home; so I stopped in my +walk and made for where I saw two ladies sitting in the sunshine in +front of the cottage. My wife restrained me and I hesitated, but on +casting my eyes towards the ladies I perceived one of them smile, so +I proceeded on, and raising my hat, apologized for our interview, +saying that we were from the north and were captivated by the beauty +of the place. "Oh, not at all, you are perfectly welcome. Would you +like to look around?" We gladly accepted, and were shown around the +premises, and at my request to pick an orange myself to send home, I +was given permission, and told I <span class="pagenum">p.189</span> might pick a lemon also, and +would I like a bunch of orange blossoms?</p> + +<p>We finally had two card boxes given us, and packed the fruit in one +and the orange blossoms in the other. We were then invited in to rest +and found the ladies were representative of those we met +afterwards—the most kindly and courteous—and here I must say that I +never met more obliging people than these same good people of +California. I never met with a rebuff from anyone, and I am sure I +bothered them enough during our stay with enquiries of every kind and +another.</p> + +<p>The police are instructed to supply everyone with necessary +information and are provided with books containing such information +as people may require. There are many excursions out of Los Angeles +in various directions, of which we availed ourselves. One of these +took us to Causton’s ostrich farm, San Gabriel Mission, and Long +Beach. The ostrich farm is well worth a visit, to see these monster +birds running about with wings outstretched. We were informed that at +the age of six months they were full grown, and considering their +size and weight it is a wonder. They eat as much as a cow, and, to +show how high they can reach, the keeper stood on something and +raised his hand up to eight feet and the ostrich easily took an +orange from his hand and swallowed it whole. We were warned not to +come too close to them, for the ostrich is attracted by bright +hatpins in the ladies’ hats or by jewelry, or by anything bright—all +are swallowed whole. One was sitting on a batch of eggs, which had +just been vacated by the male, who does the most of the sitting. The +visit to the San Gabriel Mission was of great interest to me, for it +was of ancient origin, having been one of those founded by Padre +Junipero Serra in 1771. The church we visited, <span class="pagenum">p.190</span> and were conducted +through by a lay priest who, in a monotonous tone of voice, recited +all he knew of the mission. As before stated, the mission was about +one hundred and forty years old, and one cannot but admire the zeal +and devotion of the men who endured the hardships of the life they +must have led so long ago. The church windows were very high from the +ground, as the natives were not to be trusted, and the fathers might +be surprised at any moment during the service and shot at. They had +often to take refuge there from further attacks in early times. We +were told that the building, which was built, as all were at that +time, of sun-dried bricks and mud, was renewed since only in roof +and seats. The original doors were preserved and shown us in a room. +They were made very substantially, with iron bolts and bands and big +locks, but now crumbling with age. The pictures of saints on the +walls were painted in oil, and very poor specimens of art, I should +say. They were old, and were sent from Spain. Although twenty-five +cents was asked for admission we were asked to contribute to a fund +for the restoration of the building, and many small coins were given +by our party, and, when it is remembered that these excursions are +daily, the year around, it must be an expensive job keeping the old +building in repair. It looked as if twenty dollars would have covered +the cost of any repairs made in a year, and it looked to me a case of +graft on someone’s part. There is another church, founded at the same +time, in Los Angeles, and I produce all I could decipher of an +ancient inscription I copied from the front: "Los ---- de Esta +Parroquia A La Reina de Los Angelus" (built 1814). These missions are +planted at stated distances from San Diego to San Francisco, and all +by that pioneer of Roman Catholicism, Junipera Serra. There <span class="pagenum">p.191</span> is a +statue to him in Golden Gate Park in San Francisco in the attitude of +exhortation, leaning forward with arms extended upward. I visited +three of the missions, and they are all about the same. There is +great food for contemplation in visiting these relics of the past. +To think of the conditions as existing then and now.</p> + +<p>We were photographed in front of the mission, after which we left for +Long Beach and spent the balance of the afternoon. The beach was +covered with bathers—men, women and children—and although the surf +rolled high on the sands the bathers ran in and met the rollers, +which completely buried them. They then emerged laughing, and waited +for the next wave. There was quite a small town on the sands where +there were shows of all kinds and booths for getting money by many +ways in profusion.</p> + +<p>At the handsome and commodious Hotel Virginia we visited Mr. Roper of +"Cherry Creek" who has been down here all the winter, and we found +him getting better, but slowly.</p> + +<p>Although there are many Victorians go south to spend the winter each +year, the great majority are for many reasons unable to do so, and I +thought it might be of some interest to these latter to give them +"items by the way" in going and coming on this most enjoyable sojourn +to the land of fruit, flowers and beautiful homes.</p> + +<p>At all these winter resorts for people from the East and North are +flowers, trees and fruit, with handsome hotels, fruits, beautiful +shade trees, and last but not least, beautiful homes. There are +public parks in all of them where in January people may sit out of +doors among their flowers, with the mocking-birds singing on all +sides. Residences are nearly all in the bungalow style, with +projecting roofs. The more imposing residences <span class="pagenum">p.192</span> may be of Spanish +architecture with red tiled roofs which look very handsome.</p> + +<p>I wondered at the large and handsome hotels in Pasadena, although +Riverside, San Bernardino and San Diego all have good hotels. In +Pasadena there was the Maryland with its pergola, a Spanish appendage +covered with climbing flower vines which was very attractive; also +the Green and the Raymond. There is little to be seen of the original +inhabitants of this country, that is to say, of their descendants. It +put me in mind of our own Indians, of the remnant of the Songhees +tribe. They are all seemingly half or quarter breeds, and work as +laborers for the railway company. I have already given in my boyhood +experiences in San Francisco an account of a flag incident, and +strange to say, I nearly had another in Los Angeles. One day I saw +what might be an English flag flying from a high building, and the +sight stirred me. So to make sure I threaded my way through the crowd +for some distance and when opposite the building I walked off the +sidewalk and craned my neck to look up six stories to make sure if it +were really a Union Jack. Well, well! I thought, is it up so high to +protect it from molestation, or is it that they are more +liberal-minded here? I felt pleased, but when I espied what turned +out to be the British coat-of-arms below the flag I saw the reason +why. Just then along came a motor cycle and a motor car, and in the +opposite direction a street car, and I recovered myself and got out +of the way in quick time. It was the office of the British Consul, +and that is why it waved. I consoled myself with the thought that it +was after all only a certain class of American who would not tolerate +any other flag in this country but his own, and I shall try and +always think this.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.193</p> + +<p>We left Los Angeles and Redlands March 24th for San Francisco, where +we arrived March 25th. In San Francisco I met an old Victorian, Tom +Burnes, brother of William Burnes, H. M. customs. I had not seen him +for years, and we started to explore the Plaza on Kearney and +Washington Streets. This was the most familiar part of San Francisco +to me, as I have passed through this part often as a boy. It is now +known as Portman Square. I looked for the "Monumental" engine house +from which I had run to fires in the early fifties. A blank space was +pointed out where it had been, but the fire had destroyed this +ancient landmark. In the Plaza Mr. Burnes showed me a monument to +Robert Louis Stevenson, the English writer of such interesting sea +stories. On the top was a ship of the time of Elizabeth, with the +high poop deck, which must have represented something in one of his +stories, and an inscription:</p> + +<blockquote> +<p class="sc">"To Remember Robert L. Stevenson.</p> + +<p>"To be honest, to be kind, to earn a little, to spend a little less. +To make upon the whole a family happier for his presence. To renounce +when that be necessary. Not to be embittered. To keep a few friends, +but those without capitulation. Above all, on the same grim +condition, to keep friends with himself. Here is a task for all that +man has of fortitude and delicacy."</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>This was erected by some admirers of the very interesting English +writer who died, was it not in Samoa, so beloved by the natives.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.194</p> + +<p>Piloted by Mr. Burnes, we next viewed St. Mary’s Cathedral. It had +been fifty odd years since I had last been inside, and as a boy I had +often been attracted by the music. The cathedral was completely +gutted by the fire, which entered at the front doors and passed up +the tower and to the roof, in fact making a complete ruin of the +building. So that the original landmark should be preserved intact, +they built a complete church inside of concrete and bolted the two +walls together so that the building is as good as ever. New stained +glass windows, altars and a new $25,000 organ have been donated by +wealthy members of the congregation, so that we looked upon a new +church inside and the original outside.</p> + +<p>We spent the afternoon at Golden Gate Park, which was the great sight +of San Francisco, four miles long, laid out as an immense garden or +succession of gardens, with conservatories and aviaries, tropical +trees, winding roads and paths in all directions. The first thing to +attract my attention before entering the museum was a statue of Padre +Junipero Serra, the intrepid founder of so many missions along the +coast of California. There were also monuments to Abraham Lincoln, +General Grant, and that stirring preacher of the south, Starr King. +Time was valuable, so I had to give up a further inspection of the +park to give all remaining time to the museum, which closed at four +o’clock. All the time we were in the museum I noticed two policemen +patrolling about and I thought it unusual, and on inquiry found that +lately a most valuable picture had been taken by being cut out of the +frame. After some trouble the thief had been captured and the picture +recovered. The thief gave as a reason for stealing it that he thought +it might inspire him to paint just such a picture, he being ambitious +to be a painter. I hardly <span class="pagenum">p.195</span> think this excuse will weigh with the +authorities. In the room of pioneer relics I found many interesting +things. First a large bell which recorded on the outside the founding +of the volunteer fire department, organized 1850, George Hosseproso, +chief engineer. Firemen of those days were men of account, in fact, +many men of prominence were officers or members of the fire +department. Second, four mission bells from an old mission church at +Carmelo, Monterey County, built by Padre Junipero Serra, 1770; San +Francisco’s first printing press, used in publishing the first +newspaper in California, in 1846, at Monterey; a picture of Jno. +Truebody, a pioneer business man of San Francisco, whom I remember +well; two glass cases of relics presented by John Bardwell, of the +<i>vigilante</i> days, containing firearms, batons, certificates of +membership in the <i>vigilante</i> committee, pieces of rope, being +cut off the original ropes with which they hanged Cora, Casey, +Hetherington and Brace, for the assassination of James King of +William, and General Richardson. James King of William was the editor +of the <i>Chronicle</i>, and in an election campaign James King, who +was opposed to Casey in politics, mentioned the fact that Casey had +been a jail-bird in his youth. This was taken up by Casey’s friends +and three of them agreed that the first one of the three who should +meet James King should shoot him. Casey being the first to meet +him performed the deed. For this he was hanged by the vigilance +committee, who demanded him from the authorities. This committee was +formed immediately after the assassination.</p> + +<p>Cora was hanged for the murder of General Richardson because of a +slight cast on Cora’s wife by the former. <span class="pagenum">p.196</span> Pistols seemed to have +been carried by all as a necessity. Cora and Casey were taken out of +the jail by the vigilance committee and hanged May 18th, 1856. There +were also pieces of the rope used in hanging Hetherington and Brace +for the murder of Baldwin, Randall, West and Marion, July 29th, 1856. +There were pictures also of Judge Terry, A. B. Paul, Wm. T. Coleman, +Charles Doane, James King of William, and a picture of the scene +of his assassination. I recognized this locality immediately I saw +it. It was the offices of the Pacific Express Co., on the corner +of Washington and Montgomery. There were also pictures of Fort +Gunnybags, the headquarters of the vigilance committee, showing the +alarm bell and the sentries on the roof; also Lola Montez, Countess +of Bavaria, a most notable woman of those exciting times, and of +William C. Ralston. There was a picture of the pavilion of the first +Mechanics’ Exhibition, held in San Francisco in 1857. I remember this +exhibition well, as on a certain day all the school children were +given free admission, and it was as a school boy I went.</p> + +<p>There was an extensive collection of relics of the past in the +Egyptian rooms, many being <i>facsimiles</i> of the originals in the +British Museum. Where this was the case it was so stated, but there +were many genuine things, amongst which I noted a wooden statue +dating back about 1,000 years before Christ, being the wife, and also +sister of Osiris, and mother of Horus, chief deity of Egypt. Strictly +on the stroke of four o’clock a policeman went through the building +and called out that the buildings must be closed. I made a request to +one of these policemen to see the curator, and he took me to his +office; he was, unfortunately, not in, but I saw his assistant and +offered her some relics of early <span class="pagenum">p.197</span> San Francisco, which were +accepted. I was watching the people filing out, prior to closing, +when out came three bluejackets, whose caps showed they belonged to +H. M. S. <i>Shearwater</i>. I introduced myself, and remarked, "What are +you boys doing here? I should hardly have expected to have seen +sailors so far from their ship." "Oh, sir, we are at anchor in the +harbor yonder, and will be leaving Monday for Esquimalt." I saw her +that evening at anchor, with the Union Jack flapping in the breeze, +and suppose the Jacks were aboard all right.</p> + +<p>We were advised that the mint was open to visitors between the hours +of 9.30 and 11.30, and as I had not been there for about twenty years +we joined a party one morning. On presenting ourselves we were +ushered into a waiting-room with others. Later on a man in uniform +came for us. We were counted and told to follow. We were first taken +down to a room in the cellar where we were instructed as to what we +should see, and given a lot of information about the mint. This was +done where it was quiet, as where the work was done it is very noisy. +The first process was melting the silver in crucibles, which were +emptied of their contents when in a liquid state into molds, which +were in turn emptied out, were grasped by a man who passed them on +with thick leather-gloved hands to powerful rollers which rolled the +ingots out to long strips like hoop-iron, after being passed through +many times. These strips, which were then as thick as a dollar, were +passed under a stamp, which punched out the coins about 120 a minute. +They were continually being examined by various men who now and then +threw out imperfect ones. They were then passed on to another room +where there was a perfect din of machinery. They were now passed +under an <span class="pagenum">p.198</span> immense stamp and the image was punched on under a +pressure of one hundred and twenty-eight tons. They were then coins, +and after several other examinations were cooled and passed, one +being handed around for our inspection. In addition to the dollar we +saw the same routine gone through in making a copper cent piece. +I tried to get one, but he said every one was counted and must be +produced. There were several who wanted souvenirs and wished to pay +for them. We were counted again, signed our names and left.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.199</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov26">CHAPTER XXVI.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">AN HISTORIC STEAMER.</p> + +<p>The following interesting account of the historic steamer +<i>Beaver</i>, the first to round the Horn into the Pacific, will be +read by native sons as well as pioneers with renewed interest, as it +is many years since this account was published.</p> + +<p>The <i>Beaver</i> lay off the old Customs House for a long time, +until taken by the Admiralty for hydrographic work. When done with +for that purpose she was sold for mercantile purposes again.</p> + +<p>For some years she was in charge of my old friend, Captain "Wully +Mutchell," as he was called by his friends, and he had many, for he +was as jolly as a sandboy and always joking, in fact more like a man +of fifty instead of eighty, as he really was.</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img35"> +<img width="392" height="307" src="images/vi35.jpg" alt="[Illustration: The steamer Beaver.]" /> +</div> + +<p>"More than thirty-nine years have passed and a generation of men have +come and gone since the Hudson’s Bay Company’s steamer <i>Beaver</i>, +whose sale was chronicled yesterday, floated with the tide down the +River Thames, through the British Channel, and went out into the +open, trackless sea, rounded Cape Horn, clove the placid waters of +the Pacific Ocean, and anchored at length, after a passage that +lasted one hundred and sixty-three days, at Astoria on the Columbia +River, then the chief ‘town’ on the Pacific Coast. Built and equipped +at a period when the problem of steam marine navigation was yet to be +solved, is it any <span class="pagenum">p.200</span> wonder that the little steamer which was +destined to traverse two oceans—one of them scarcely known outside +of books of travel—was an object of deep and engrossing interest +from the day that her keel was first laid until the morning when she +passed out of sight amidst the encouraging cheers of thousands +gathered on either shore, and the answering salvoes of her own guns, +on a long voyage to an unknown sea?</p> + +<p>"Titled men and women watched the progress of construction. King +William and 160,000 of his loyal subjects witnessed the launch. A +Duchess broke the traditional bottle of champagne over the bow and +bestowed the name she has ever since proudly worn. The engines and +boilers, built by Bolton and Watt (Watt was a son of the great Watt) +were placed in their proper positions on board, but it was not +considered safe to work them on the passage; so she was rigged as a +brig and came out under sail. A bark accompanied her as convoy to +assist in case of accident; but the <i>Beaver</i> set all canvas, ran +out of sight of her ‘protector,’ and reached the Columbia twenty-two +days ahead. Captain Home was the name of the first commander of the +<i>Beaver</i>; he brought her out, and we can well imagine the feeling +of pride with which he bestrode the deck of his brave little ship, +which carried six guns—nine-pounders. The <i>Beaver</i>, soon after +reaching Astoria, got up steam, and after having ‘astonished the +natives’ with her performances, sailed up to Nisqually, then the +Hudson’s Bay Company’s chief station on the Pacific. Here Captain +McNeil (now commander of the <i>Enterprise</i>), took command of the +<i>Beaver</i>, and Captain Home, retiring to one of the Company’s forts +on Columbia River, perished in 1837 in Death’s Rapids by the +upsetting of a boat. From that period until the steamer passed into <span class="pagenum">p.201</span> +the hands of the Imperial hydrographers, the history of the +<i>Beaver</i> was that of most of the Company’s trading vessels. She +ran north and south, east and west, collecting furs and carrying +goods to and from the stations for many years. Amongst the best known +of her officers during that period were Capt. Dodds, Capt. Brotchie, +Capts. Scarborough, Sangster, Mouat and others, all of whom passed +away long since, but have left their names behind them. We believe +we are correct in saying that not a single person who came out in +the <i>Beaver</i> in 1835 is now alive; and nearly all the Company’s +officers, with a few exceptions, who received her on her arrival at +Columbia River, are gone, too.</p> + +<div class="imgright" id="img36"> +<img width="276" height="439" src="images/vi36.jpg" alt="[Portrait: Captain “Willie” Mitchell.]" /> +</div> + +<p>"Yesterday, through the courtesy of Capt. Rudlin (one of her new +owners and future commander) we visited the old ship. On board we met +the venerable Captain William Mitchell, who has had charge of the +vessel for some years. He was busily engaged in packing his clothes +into chests preparatory to going ashore. He remembers well the +<i>Beaver</i> in her early days. Every room, every plank possesses +historic interest to him. He pointed out the Captain’s room. ‘Just +the same,’ said he, ‘as when I first saw it in ’36. There’s the chest +of drawers, there’s the bunk, and there’s the hook where the +Captain’s pipe hung, and many’s the smoke I’ve had in these cabins +nearly forty years ago. Nothing below has been changed,’ continued +Captain Mitchell, ‘except—except the faces that used to people these +rooms in the days long ago, and’—pointing to his thin, gray +locks—‘I was a deal younger then!’ He led the way into the +engine-room, chatting pleasantly as he went and relating incidents +connected with the <i>Beaver</i> and her dead people of an interesting +character which <span class="pagenum">p.202</span> we may some day give to the world. There are two +engines, of seventy-five horse-power, as bright and apparently as +little worn as when they first came from the shop of Bolton and Watt. +From some cuddy hole the Captain drew forth the ship’s bell, on which +was inscribed ‘<i>Beaver</i>, 1835;’ then he showed us into the little +forecastle with the hammock-hooks still attached to the timbers, from +which had swung two generations of sailors. Then the main deck was +regained and we took leave of the gallant old gentleman and Captain +Rudlin, who informed us that the <i>Beaver</i> will be taken alongside +of Dickson, Campbell & Co.’s wharf to-day to undergo the important +changes necessary to the new trade in which she will henceforth be +employed."</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.203</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov27">CHAPTER XXVII.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">COLONEL WOLFENDEN—IN MEMORIAM.</p> + +<p>When I look back over my soldiering days the figure that I first +remember is Colonel Wolfenden, then a sergeant in the volunteers, and +I a full private. It was not, I think, until I was twenty years old +and a member for two years, that I remember him, when he was elected +captain from sergeant. I might say that the volunteers were a +different organization from the militia. You enlisted for a term, the +same as in the latter organization, and officers were elected from +the company. Uniforms were paid for by each member, the cost being +$26 for everything complete. Dues had to be paid also, fifty cents a +month, and ammunition for target practice had also to be paid for. It +was a good deal like the volunteer firemen of that day, who had to +pay dues and buy their uniform.</p> + +<div class="imgright" id="img37"> +<img width="260" height="421" src="images/vi37.jpg" alt="[Portrait: Colonel Wolfenden.]" /> +</div> + +<p>If ever there was an enthusiastic volunteer it was Captain Wolfenden, +and under the most trying circumstances. In those days (forty-four +years ago) soldiering was not as popular as it was when it was merged +into the Canadian militia, when uniform was free, ammunition was free +and there were no fees to pay. It was therefore hard work to get a +company together and keep them together under the circumstances. +Captain Wolfenden having the matter at heart did his best, and more +than his best, if that were possible, to make a good showing, and he +encouraged me to get members and <span class="pagenum">p.204</span> raised me to corporal, and +later to sergeant and finally on our merging into the Canadian +militia he made me senior sergeant. I must honestly confess I did not +think I deserved this at the time, for I was a nervous subject and +got rattled at times, but for his sake, who showed a partiality for +me, I did my best and was always at drill as he was, no matter what +the weather was. It was as captain of volunteers that he joined the +Canadian militia, and soon after was appointed colonel in charge, +which high position he worked for and earned by faithful service. I +think what made us such good friends was our early comradeship in the +volunteers. We used to have march-outs to Esquimalt, to Cadboro Bay +or to Beacon Hill and back, and to enliven the march would sing +songs; those with a good chorus which were joined in by the rest. +These days of the past were often talked over by us in later years, +while I, to please the Collector of Customs, Mr. Hamly, in 1884, +resigned membership in the militia, after eighteen years as a +volunteer soldier. Colonel Wolfenden continued on for many years. +In conclusion I might add that when I joined the volunteers Captain +Laing, then manager of the Bank of British Columbia, was captain. I +cannot remember whether Colonel Wolfenden was a member then or not, +but it was not long after. Other officers of that time were Adjutant +Vinter, Captain Fletcher (P. O. Inspector), Captain Dorman (deputy +Inspector), Major Roscoe (hardware merchant), Captain T. L. Wood +(Solicitor-General), Captain Drummond (company No. 2), and Chaplain +Rev. Thomas Sommerville. Occasionally we went into camp for a month, +and generally at Beacon Hill, or at Henley’s, at Clover Point. These +camps were made very interesting by entertainments being frequently +given, and to which our friends <span class="pagenum">p.205</span> were invited. Oh, those were days +worth remembering! During the time of the Fenian Raid we were +encamped in the trees just about where the bear pits were, and the +night sentries were told to keep a strict lookout, and challenge all +intruders. This was taken advantage of by some young fellows to play +a lark on us. So one night when the camp was asleep, we were all +awakened by the sentry’s outcry. He happened to be the late Robert +Homfray, a rather nervous man. I got up with the rest, and there +was the sentry with what he declared was an infernal machine, which +had been thrown into the camp by someone who had made off in the +darkness. The infernal machine consisted of a bottle filled with what +was supposed to be giant powder, and bits of iron or steel, with a +fuse sticking out of the neck of the bottle. It was, after careful +inspection without much handling, put away till the morning, and +then, a more strict examination revealed the contents to be simply +small bits of coal to represent giant powder, and genuine steel +filings. This was a standing joke against us, and especially Private +Homfray, for many a day afterwards. To conclude, finally, I am sure I +have the most kindly recollections of my friend of so many years, as +have many more to-day, who will bear full testimony to his sterling +worth as a soldier, government official and gentleman.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.206</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov28">CHAPTER XXVIII.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">THE CLOSING OF VIEW STREET IN 1858.</p> + +<p>It is known to few only that View Street at one time reached from +Cook to Wharf Street.</p> + +<div class="imgright" id="img38"> +<img width="259" height="420" src="images/vi38.jpg" alt="[Portrait: Senator Macdonald.]" /> +</div> + +<p>In the Victoria <i>Gazette</i> of 1858 appear several items regarding +this street. A public meeting was called for by certain citizens who +considered themselves more aggrieved than the general public, in that +they, being residents of the upper part of View Street, had on coming +to business, to walk on to Fort or Yates Street to get to Government +or Wharf. Without any notice the street was fenced across on Broad +and also on Government. The <i>Gazette</i> states that there was +great dissatisfaction at the fencing of the vacant space on +"Broadway" and Government Streets, which the paper stated was used as +a cabbage patch, and there was talk of pulling the fence down.</p> + +<p>All the agitation seems to have amounted to nothing, for not only was +the fence not pulled down, but J. J. Southgate, one of the earliest +merchants of Victoria, erected a large wooden building on the street. +By referring to the engraving this building may be seen indicated by +a cross. Later on Southgate erected the present brick building which +Hibben & Co. have just vacated after an occupancy of forty odd years. +The <i>Gazette</i> stated later on that the Governor had sold the +lots to Mr. Southgate, and that settled the matter.</p> + +<p>That it was not intended that View Street should end <span class="pagenum">p.207</span> at Broad +is evident, as Bastion Street was then known as View Street, being so +called in Mallandaine’s first directory (1859.)</p> + +<p>Mr. Trounce, who owned the land through which Trounce Avenue passes, +after the closing of View Street, decided to make an alleyway through +his property so as to more easily let his stores. This alley has been +open ever since, but used to be closed for a day each year for many +years after.</p> + +<p>I might state that J. J. Southgate, who was a prominent Mason, called +a meeting of "all Free Masons at his new store on Monday evening, +July 12th, 1858, at 7 o’clock, to consider important matters +connected with the organization of the order."</p> + +<p>T. N. Hibben & Co., who have just vacated this site after so many +years, have moved only once before since going into business on the +corner of Yates and Langley Streets, in 1858, by the firm name of +"Hibben & Carswell." The building is that brick one lately sold. Both +founders of this well-known and long-established business, together +with their bookkeeper who later became a partner (Mr. Kammerer) have +passed away, and the firm now consists of Mr. Hibben’s widow and +William H. Bone, who has been connected with the firm since 1871.</p> + +<h4 class="sc">"Did the Thoroughfare Once Run Through to The Harbor? A Question +of Records.</h4> + +<p>"The question of whether or not View Street, which is now blocked by +stores and office buildings at Broad Street, was ever open to traffic +as a thoroughfare clear through, which theory D. W. Higgins, in an +interview published in the <i>Colonist</i> last week denied, is causing <span class="pagenum">p.208</span> +considerable discussion among old-time residents. Yesterday Edgar +Fawcett, who first broached the subject, gave the <i>Colonist</i> the +following further argument on the question:</p> + +<p>"As my friend Mr. Higgins joins issue with me on my account of the +closing of View Street in 1858, I am going to give him some further +evidence. I would not for a moment match my memory or knowledge of +events of the early history of Victoria with Mr. Higgins, who arrived +months before I did, and from his position as a newspaper man had far +better opportunities of getting knowledge of passing events. But Mr. +Higgins did not arrive early enough, if the evidence in the Victoria +<i>Gazette</i> is worth anything. I had the opportunity of reviewing +the first year’s numbers, and jotted down all items I thought of +interest. This I gave to the <i>Colonist</i> readers some years ago, +and the items regarding View Street were some of them. I think Mr. +Higgins will forgive me if I say that the <i>Gazette’s</i> evidence +is likely to be more correct than mere memory. I am glad of the +opportunity to correct an error I made in copying from my former +article; that of substituting the name of Southgate for Stamp. +Southgate’s name occurred several times in items, and I find by +referring to my former article, that I have Captain Stamp’s name all +right. Now for the further evidence. I would ask if it is likely that +any one would build a wharf on Broad Street, say at the office of the +Daily <i>Times</i>, Ltd., which is now at the foot of View Street? I +ask this because in the <i>Gazette</i> it is announced that Rousette +is building a wharf at the foot of View Street, which meant next to +the Hudson’s Bay Company’s warehouse on Wharf Street. Further, I +produce from Mallandaine’s <span class="pagenum">p.209</span> First Directory, compiled in 1859, +two advertisements which will show that View Street ended on Wharf +Street opposite the Hudson’s Bay Company’s store:</p> + +<div style="text-align:center;"><p> + F. J. St. Ours<br /> + Wharf Street, near View<br /> + Kaindler’s wharf—Victoria, V. I.<br /> + Commission Merchant<br /> + Storage<br /> + Etc., Etc., Etc. + </p> + +<hr style="width:6em;"/> + +<p> + Reid & Macdonald<br /> + Commission and General Merchants<br /> + Warehousemen<br /> + Wharf Street,<br /> + Corner of View Street<br /> + Victoria, V. I. + </p></div> + +<h4 class="sc">"Neither Bastion Nor View.</h4> + +<p>"To the Editor:—Having read with great interest Mr. Edgar Fawcett’s +letter <i>re</i> the query as to the permanent term for the street +now named as View and Bastion, may I make a suggestion that in the +event of a re-naming that the thoroughfare be known as Fawcett +Street? Many old residents are perpetuated in street names, and I +feel sure, after the indefatigable efforts put forward by Mr. Fawcett +in all issues connected with archaic research in Victoria and its +immediate environs, that it would be a fitting tribute on the part of +the city fathers to perpetuate the name of such a zealous citizen.</p> + +<p class="sig sc">"Well Wisher.</p> +<p class="sig" style="padding-right:4em;">"Victoria, B.C., Nov. 8th, 1910."</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.210</p> + + +<h4 class="sc">"View or Bastion or Both?</h4> + +<p>"To the Editor:—In case the project for extending View Street +through the burnt block is carried out, what name would be given the +street when it connects with Bastion at the corner of Government? +Although View Street as originally planned commenced at the +waterfront where the Hudson’s Bay Company’s store stands, I think +‘Bastion’ a better name for the street, as it was the northern +boundary for the fort, and, as is well known, Richardson’s cigar +store stands on ground formerly occupied by the N. E. bastion, and is +therefore a historic spot or landmark.</p> + +<p>"Since the correspondence with respect to View Street and where it +commenced and ended, I have met two gentlemen who were residents in +1855 and who both state positively that View Street was always open +for traffic from Wharf Street eastward until 1858, when the land now +proposed to be expropriated was fenced in on Government and Broadway, +as Broad Street was then known, by Captain Stamp, with the consent of +Governor Douglas, on behalf of the Hudson’s Bay Company."</p> + +<h4 class="sc">"The Bridge to the Reserve.</h4> + +<p>"Sir:—There cannot be two opinions as to the utility of a bridge +over the harbor from the bottom of Johnson Street. The first bridge +crossing to the Songhees reserve at this point was built by Governor +Douglas prior to 1860, it being an ordinary pile bridge such as +graced, or disgraced, James Bay until the Causeway was built. The +first bridge over to the reserve was part of the highway to +Esquimalt, Craigflower, Metchosin and Sooke, and was very much in use +in the olden days.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.211</p> + +<p>"A continuous stream of people, many Indians amongst them, passed to +and fro, and in times of potlatches, when there were hundreds of +Indians living there, and as many visitors from other reservations on +the island, and even mainland, it was a busy place. The ceremony of +making a medicine man I have seen on two occasions, when a candidate +was locked up for days, being kept without food, and then at the +appointed time let loose, when he ran about like a madman and was +supposed to catch a dog, of which there were scores on the reserve, +and in his hunger bite pieces out of the dog. It was very unsafe at +times for persons to go over to the reserve at night, on account of +the drunken Indians.</p> + +<p>"But this is beside the question I started to write about, which was +the bridge and its approach on Johnson Street end. I repeat what I +said in reviewing four old pictures of 1866 which appeared in the +<i>Colonist</i> of a few weeks ago. In speaking of the old buildings +to be seen on the water-front next to the sand and gravel concern, +‘there are two which, I remarked, should not have been allowed to +remain so long.’ One was known in the earliest times as the ‘salmon +house,’ where the Hudson’s Bay Company salted, packed and stored +their salmon. It may have been considered an ornament in those days, +but in these days of progress it is an eyesore and very much in the +way. Opposite this building, and across the street, was manufactured +most of the ‘tangle leg’ whiskey sold to the Indians in those days, +and which drove them crazy, rather than made them drunk.</p> + +<p class="sig sc">"Edgar Fawcett."</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.212</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov29">CHAPTER XXIX.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">MR. FAWCETT RETIRES FROM THE CUSTOMS.</p> + +<h4 class="sc">"Pioneer Pensioned by the Department—One of the Oldest Residents +of the City.</h4> + +<p>"After twenty-nine years’ service in His Majesty’s customs as +assistant appraiser in charge of the Postal Package and Express +Office, Mr. Edgar Fawcett has just received word that he has been +retired with a substantial pension. While glad to retire, Mr. Fawcett +said he feels that he will miss the favor he has met with at the +Customs House week by week for so many years.</p> + +<p>"Mr. Fawcett was presented with an address by the customs staff +yesterday and a presentation was made of a leather chair and stool. +The presentation address was signed by every member of the customs +staff.</p> + +<p>"Mr. Edgar Fawcett is a pioneer. He came to Victoria in 1859 and is +one of the best informed men in the city concerning the history and +material development of this portion of the province, and he himself +has taken no insignificant part in affairs of a general public +nature. He has written many reminiscences of early days in Victoria +and is a recognized authority along these lines.</p> + +<div class="imgright" id="img39"> +<img width="265" height="456" src="images/vi39.jpg" alt="[Portrait: Fawcett as Rifle Volunteer.]" /> +</div> + +<p>"Mr. Fawcett is a native of Australia, having been born of English +ancestry at Sydney, N.S.W., on February 1st, 1847. His father, who +was a carpet manufacturer at the noted British manufactory of +carpets, <span class="pagenum">p.213</span> Kiddermaster, was a cousin of Sir Rowland Hill, the +British Postmaster-General, whose work for the penny post is known. +The family emigrated to Australia in 1838, and remained there until +1849, when they were among the ‘forty-niners’ to become pioneers of +California. Mr. Fawcett, Sr., invested at San Francisco in a vessel +which he engaged in freighting lumber between British Columbia and +San Francisco, and this craft was lost in the Straits of Juan de Fuca +in 1857, causing him some financial embarrassment. In 1858 the father +came to Victoria to recoup his fortunes, the family following a year +later. Mr. Fawcett, Sr., was an honored citizen of Victoria for +thirty years, and for three years filled the post of Government agent +at Nanaimo. In 1889 he returned to England and died at the age of +seventy-six years. Of his sons, Edgar Fawcett and Rowland W. Fawcett +remained in British Columbia.</p> + +<p>"Mr. Fawcett came to Victoria as a boy of twelve years of age, and in +the early period of the city’s history, when there was little more +than a village on the site of the old fort, he used his facilities of +observation to good advantage, and carries in his memory exact +impressions and scenes as he then saw them. He received his early +education in Victoria at the Collegiate School and the Colonial +School, and began his business career with his brother as an +upholsterer until 1882, when he entered the Dominion Civil Service, +first as a clerk in the custom house, and he has been promoted from +time to time.</p> + +<p>"Mr. Fawcett served as a sergeant in the old Victoria Rifle +Volunteers, afterward merged into the Canadian militia under Colonel +Wolfenden. He was among the first to join the volunteer fire +department of Victoria. He is the only remaining charter member of +the <span class="pagenum">p.214</span> Pioneers’ Society, and was secretary at the first meeting +when organized in Smith’s Hall, Victoria, in 1871. He is a veteran +member of the Oddfellows, having joined the order in 1868. He is a +veteran member of the church committee of the Reformed Episcopal +Church, and was active in the organization of this church about +thirty-five years ago."</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.215</p> + +<h3 id="rov30">CHAPTER XXX.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">SOME COLORED PIONEERS.</p> + +<p>Here is an interesting little story to early residents of over fifty +years ago that may be recalled for their edification. It would be +interesting to present residents to know that in 1858 Victoria had a +larger colored population than she has to-day, although with now +three times the population. This is how it happened, and thereon +hangs the tale:</p> + +<p>Before the rush to the Fraser River gold diggings and in California +there was an act passed through the Legislature of that state making +it compulsory for all colored men to wear a distinctive badge. This +called forth indignation from all the colored residents of +California, and resulted in a meeting being held in San Francisco, +delegates from all parts coming. At this meeting, after the matter +had been fully discussed, it was decided to send a delegation of +three, representing the colored residents of California, to Victoria +to interview Governor Douglas, to know how they would be received in +this colony. The delegation, consisting of Mifflin W. Gibbs,—Moses, +a barber, and another, met Governor Douglas and received such +encouragement that they returned and reported favorably. The result +of this was that eight hundred colored persons—men, women and +children—emigrated to Victoria during 1858 and 1859.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.216</p> + +<p>What induced me to write this matter up was the resurrecting of a +newspaper cutting, evidently from the Victoria <i>Gazette</i>, for +which I am indebted to Mr. Newbury, collector of customs, and which +is given verbatim:</p> + +<div class="imgright" id="img40"> +<img width="263" height="438" src="images/vi40.jpg" alt="[Portrait: Samuel Booth.]" /> +</div> + +<h4 class="sc">"Application for Citizenship.</h4> + +<p>"We have copied the names and occupations of the persons who have +made application to be admitted to the rights of British subjects +within the past few days, and give them below. They foot up +fifty-four in number—fifty-three are colored and one white.</p> + +<h5>"<i>Victoria Town.</i></h5> + +<ul> + <li>"George Henry Anderson, farmer.</li> + <li>William Isaacs, farmer.</li> + <li>Fielding Spotts, cooper.</li> + <li>James Samson, teamster.</li> + <li>Richard Stokes, carrier.</li> + <li>John Thomas Dunlop, carman.</li> + <li>Nathan Pointer, merchant.</li> + <li>Augustus Christopher, porter.</li> + <li>Isaac Gohiggin, teamster.</li> + <li>William Alex. Scott, barber.</li> + <li>Mifflin Wister Gibbs, merchant.</li> + <li>William Miller, saloon-keeper.</li> + <li>George H. Matthews, merchant.</li> + <li>Robert Abernethy, baker.</li> + <li>Henry Perpero, gardener.</li> + <li>Thomas Palmer Freeman, storekeeper.</li> + <li>Stephen Anderson, miner.</li> + <li>Edward A. Booth, water carrier.</li> + <li>William Grant, teamster.<span class="pagenum">p.217</span></li> + <li>Henry Holly Brenen, cook.</li> + <li>Samuel John Booth, caulker.</li> + <li>Joshua B. Handy, restaurant-keeper.</li> + <li>William Brown, merchant.</li> + <li>Timothy Roberts, teamster.</li> + <li><a href="#fnote1">*</a>William Copperman, Indian trader.</li> + <li>Matthew Fred. Monet, fruiterer.</li> + <li>John Baldwin, greengrocer.</li> + <li>Stephen Whitley, laundryman.</li> + <li>Charles H. Thorp, ship carpenter.</li> + <li>George Washington Hobbs, teamster.</li> + <li>Willis Carroll Bond, contractor.</li> + <li>Elison Dowdy, painter.</li> + <li>Archer Fox, barber.</li> + <li>Robert H. Williamson, blacksmith.</li> + <li>Randel Caesar, barber.</li> + <li>Fortune Richard, ship carpenter.</li> + <li>T. Devine Mathews, carrier.</li> + <li>Robert Tilghman, barber.</li> + <li>Charles Humphrey Scott, grocer.</li> + <li>Thomas H. Jackson, drayman.</li> + <li>Ashbury Buhler, tailor.</li> + <li>Archer Lee, porter.</li> + <li>John Lewis, porter.</li> + <li>Thorenton Washington, carpenter.</li> + <li>Lewis Scott, carpenter.</li> + <li>William Glasco, teamster.</li> + <li>John Dandridge, no occupation.</li> + <li>Adolphus C. Richards, plasterer.</li> + <li>Fielding Smithers, messenger.</li> + <li>John E. Edwards, hair dresser.</li> + <li>Paris Carter, grocer.</li> + <li>Augustus Travers, porter.</li> + </ul> + +<div id="fnote1"> +<p>[*] Footnote: White.</p> +</div> + +<p class="pagenum">p.218</p> + +<h5><i>"Victoria District.</i></h5> + +<ul> + <li>"Richard Jackson, gardener.</li> + <li>Patrick Jerome Addison, farmer."</li> +</ul> + +<p>The names will be familiar to many of our old-timers, but, strange to +say, of this list only seven families are represented to-day: That of +F. Spotts, farmer; Nathan Pointer, M. W. Gibbs, William Grant, Samuel +J. Booth, Paris Carter and Gus Travers.</p> + +<p>As they were promised equal rights with the whites by Governor +Douglas, they proceeded to claim these rights in various ways, which +was resisted by the American residents, who formed a large majority +of the residents of Victoria then. It has been told by Mr. Higgins of +the colored people who had reserved seats in the dress circle of the +theatre, and of the indignation of the Americans who had seats next +to them; several colored men went into Joe Lovett’s saloon and called +for drink. Joe Lovett refused to serve them. The colored men brought +the matter before Judge Pemberton, who decided that Lovett was in the +wrong, and must serve them; but that he might charge them $2.50 a +drink if he wished. An American and his family occupied a pew in +Victoria District Church, and one hot Sunday the sexton showed a +colored man into the pew. The American left the church and wrote a +very indignant letter to the <i>Gazette</i> on the insult offered to +the American people by such a proceeding. This called for a reply +from the Rev. Mr. Cridge in defence of his sexton. Also Mr. Gibbs +wrote a very caustic letter, in which he handled the gentleman +without gloves. This Mr. Gibbs, after leaving Victoria, rose to a +high position in the United States, having been appointed minister to +Hayti. He kept a grocery here on lower Yates <span class="pagenum">p.219</span> Street in connection +with Peter Lester. Many of these colored people returned to the +United States after the Civil War was ended. The fire department +was modelled after the San Francisco department, and was composed +principally of Americans. On the formation of the hook and ladder +company several colored men sent in their names for membership. All +were black-balled. As they saw by this that there was a dead-set +made against them, they then decided to form a volunteer military +company. In this they were encouraged by the Hudson’s Bay Company, +who lent them muskets. This move on the part of the Hudson’s Bay +Company was supposed to have been made on the promise of the support +of the colored military in case they were required to maintain +order.</p> + +<p>On the installation of Governor Kennedy, later on, this volunteer +company stated they were going as a guard of honor. This, I believe, +was discouraged by the press, but they put in an appearance with a +band of music. In reply to an address, Governor Kennedy advised them +to disband, as they were illegally organized, there being no +authority for their organization. This was a great disappointment to +them, as they had been to the expense of uniforms and band and drill +hall; in addition to which they had been drilling for months, and now +all for nothing. But there was nothing for it under these +circumstances but to comply, and so the colored military were +disbanded. They were succeeded by a company of white volunteers, who +wore white blanket uniforms trimmed with blue. They used to drill on +Church Hill in the evenings, and were a great attraction. This was +the beginning of the volunteer rifle movement, which was eventually +merged into the Canadian militia. I was one of the riflemen so +merged.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.220</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov31">CHAPTER XXXI.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">JOHN CHAPMAN DAVIE, M.D.</p> + +<p>Sincere will be the regret at the announcement of the death of the +subject of this sketch. As I have known him since he arrived in the +colony with his father (who was also John Chapman Davie), and his +three brothers, William, Horace and Alexander, in 1862, it may not be +inappropriate that I, one of his oldest friends, should tell what I +know of him. Dr. Davie was born in Wells, Somersetshire, on the 22nd +March, 1845, and was therefore sixty-six years of age. He, with his +brother Horace (residing in Somenos), were educated at Silcoats +College, England, and studied for the profession which afterwards +made him known from north to south of the Pacific Coast, at the +University of San Francisco. He also studied under a clever English +physician, Dr. Lane, and under Dr. Toland, both eminent men who +founded colleges in California.</p> + +<p>After Dr. Davie had finished his medical course in California he came +to Victoria and entered into practice with his father.</p> + +<div class="imgright" id="img41"> +<img width="261" height="424" src="images/vi41.jpg" alt="[Portrait: John Chapman Davie, M.D.]" /> +</div> + +<p>When I was about fifteen years old I was troubled a deal with my +throat and was under his father’s treatment. I was obliged to give up +singing in consequence, being a choir boy in Christ Church. In my +frequent visits to the doctor’s surgery I became acquainted with Dr. +Davie, Jr., who undertook the treatment of my throat until I was able +to resume my choir duties. Both <span class="pagenum">p.221</span> Dr. Davie and his brother +Alexander were members of the choir at this time, and regular in +attendance at service and choir practice. I can see with my mind’s +eye at a choir practice both brothers. Mr. Cridge, the rector, always +conducted these practices, and he asked each brother in turn to sing +his individual part over in the anthem, as they were to take solos, +he (Mr. Cridge) beating time as they sang. I might say that we had +some fine singers in the choir in those days, and more anthems were +sung than even now. His brother Horace and I were school-fellows at +the Church Collegiate School, which was situated on Church Hill, just +about where Mr. Keith Wilson’s residence now stands. It was built as +a Congregational Church, and was destroyed by fire about 1870.</p> + +<p>At the time I first became acquainted with Dr. Davie his father’s +office was situated where Challoner & Mitchell’s store now stands, +and was a very unpretentious affair—as most business places were in +Victoria at that time—a wooden one-story frame cottage of three +rooms. The doctor’s first office was on the corner of Government and +Bastion, where Richardson’s cigar store stands. At the former office +my friend studied and worked with his father until the latter’s +death, when the son continued the practice in his own behalf.</p> + +<p>From Mr. Alexander Wilson, who was a director of the Royal Hospital +at the time, I am told a deal about Dr. Davie’s early medical career. +He says the young doctor was ambitious to become medical officer to +the Royal Hospital, then situated on the rock at the top of Pandora +Street, and asked Mr. Wilson to try and get the position for him, +even without salary, and Mr. Wilson, having great faith in the young +man, promised to do his best, and at a meeting of the board, consisting <span class="pagenum">p.222</span> +of Alexander McLean, J. D. Robinson, Henry Short and Alexander +Wilson, Dr. Davie was duly elected, and at a salary of £100 +per annum, and held the position for over twenty years. He entered on +his duties with great zeal, his first surgical case being that of an +Indian girl who was accidentally shot on Salt Spring Island. The poor +girl’s arm was badly shattered, and she was brought down from the +island in a canoe. It was a bad case, but the doctor pulled her +through and, saving her arm, sent her home again as good as ever.</p> + +<p>Dr. Davie was fond of music, and in early days was proficient on the +flute, contributing to the programme of many a concert for charity in +those days when amateurs did so much to entertain the public.</p> + +<p>That the subject of this sketch was a clever man goes without saying. +Many there are, and have been, who have been snatched from grim death +by this skilful surgeon. By some he was thought to be bearish and +unsympathetic, but they who thought so did not know him as I did, or +they would not have thought so. Where there was real suffering and +danger there could not have been a more gentle, kinder-hearted or +careful man. Because he did not always respond to a friend’s +salutation in passing it was taken as bearishness or indifference. It +was really pre-occupation. He was thinking out a difficult case for +the next morning at the hospital. As he once said to a lady friend, +"They little know the hours I pass walking up and down at night +thinking out a case I have to operate on—how I shall do it to make +it a success." I went into his office one day and found him with a +surgical instrument on his knee which he seemed very intent on, and I +asked him what it was for. He hesitated for a moment, then said, "You +would not understand." But still he explained <span class="pagenum">p.223</span> it all to me. It +was for an operation in the morning on the stomach of a patient at +one of the hospitals, and I have no doubt it was successful. About +seven years ago he attended me for typhoid fever, and even then he +had his bad spells of sickness, but still he came regularly, and on +reaching the top of the stairs to my room he would hold on till his +coughing fit was over. "Well, old man, how are you to-day?" After I +had taken a turn for the better and was very susceptible to the smell +of good things cooking downstairs, I asked him when I should be +allowed to have something solid, and added, "Oh, I am so tired of +milk and egg-nog; when may I have a bit of chicken or mutton?"</p> + +<p>"Well, how many days is it since your temperature was normal? Well, +in so many days you may have jelly and junket."</p> + +<p>"Is that all?" I replied, disappointed.</p> + +<p>"Look here, old man, I want to get you well, and you must be +patient."</p> + +<p>"That reminds me of a little story," said the doctor. "Some years ago +two men were digging a deep ditch on Johnson Street to repair a +sewer. Some time after both the men were taken sick, which turned out +to be typhoid fever, and, being single men, they were taken to the +hospital. I saw them every day in my regular round of visits, and +they progressed towards recovery until they got to the stage that you +have, and complained of my bill of fare. They asked for ‘something +solid,’ and I put them off with the same answer you got. A day or two +after in making my regular rounds I noticed that one of my patients +was not in evidence and I asked his friend where he was. Then the +story was told me of his friend having had some visitors, one of whom +brought a cooked chicken, part of which was <span class="pagenum">p.224</span> eaten on the sly and +the balance hidden under the mattress. The result was that he was +then out in the morgue, having died that day, and in due time, to +conclude my little story, his friend, who had no chicken, left the +hospital cured."</p> + +<p>"Now," said Dr. Davie, "I’ll go; you are in good hands (my wife’s); +be patient and ponder on my little story."</p> + +<p>It is pretty well known that Dr. Davie had had only one lung for +years past, but that did not prevent him attending to his numerous +patients. The many who to-day are indebted to his skill and kindness +of heart will feel a great sorrow at his passing. Many of his former +patients have told me of his refusal of pay for valuable services +rendered them. At the conclusion of a sickness a patient would likely +say: "Well, doctor, I am grateful for your pulling me through. I +shall have to pay by instalments. Here is something on account."</p> + +<p>If the doctor did not know his circumstances he would say: "How much +is your salary?" On his replying he (the doctor) would say: "If that +is all you get you cannot afford to pay anything," and that was the +last the patient would hear of it.</p> + +<p>On a certain occasion I heard the experience of three in a small +party who had this or something to this effect to relate. With his +extensive practice he ought to have been a very wealthy man, but not +with such patients as these, of course, but if all the patients he +has had in years past had been charged for his valuable services he +would have been worth half a million instead of dying a comparatively +poor man. This last year I have visited him regularly, and many +events of early Victoria life have been recalled on these visits. <span class="pagenum">p.225</span> +He repined at first when he knew that his days were numbered, saying, +"Fawcett, old man, don’t I wish I could go back to the days when we +were young and took those trips to Cowichan. It is pretty hard to +go!" I fully agreed with him then, but when later he got so bad and +suffered so much, he prayed to go, and I again agreed with him, +poor fellow. This latter time was when to speak made him cough and +suffocate. "Old man, I cannot talk to you," and he would lie back in +an exhausted state, and I would go, sorry that I was unable to do +anything to relieve him, to slightly repay all his kindness to me +in the past.</p> + +<p>Tuesday last I with my wife paid my last call on him, he having +expressed a desire to see me. I little thought it was the last time I +should see him alive, for he said he would not go till October, he +thought, and I believed him.</p> + +<p>Well, maybe I have said enough, but I could say a deal more if +necessary. What I have said will be echoed by many, I’m sure.</p> + +<p>So, in the words of Montgomery, the poet:</p> + +<div class="verse"> +<div class="stanza"> + <span class="i0">"Friend after friend departs, who has not lost a friend?</span><br /> + <span class="i0">There is no union here of hearts, that finds not here an end,</span><br /> + <span class="i0">Were this frail world our only rest, living or dying none were blest."</span></div> +</div> + +<p class="pagenum">p.226</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov32">CHAPTER XXXII.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">THE BEGINNING OF THE ROYAL HOSPITAL AND PROTESTANT ORPHANS’ HOME.</p> + +<p>In Mallandaine’s "first directory" of Victoria, I note the following: +"We have an hospital started by Rev. Edward Cridge, and now sadly +overburdened with debt."</p> + +<p>In course of conversation with Bishop Cridge one day I learned the +history of this—the first public hospital of Victoria—which, in due +course, became the Royal Jubilee Hospital.</p> + +<p>It was in 1858 that one day a sick man was found lying on a mattress +in Mr. Cridge’s garden. The man admitted he had been brought there by +certain parties, their names being known to Mr. Cridge. I asked Mr. +Cridge why they had brought the man to him, and clandestinely, too? +"Oh, they thought I was the proper man, and I suppose I was under the +circumstances." He continued: "We set to work at once to meet the +case, and temporarily rented a cottage owned by Mr. Blinkhorn, on the +corner of Yates and Broad Streets, now occupied by the B. C. Hardware +Company (the first patient’s name was Braithwaite), and placed W. S. +Seeley, afterwards of the Australian House, at the north end of James +Bay bridge, in charge as steward, and Dr. Trimble being appointed as +medical officer in charge." This was the beginning. Afterwards <span class="pagenum">p.227</span> +there was a wooden building erected on the Songhees Reserve, on the +site of the Marine Hospital. Later on the hospital was again moved +to Pandora Hill, and by the exertions of Mrs. (Senator) Macdonald, +Mrs. Harris (wife of Mayor Harris) and Mrs. Cridge, a female +infirmary was built there, but afterwards merged into a general +hospital. It will be seen from this that my dear old friend, Bishop +Cridge, as also Mrs. Cridge, were first in this most important +work for the relief of the suffering humanity of Victoria. Nor +was this all.</p> + +<p>I might state that Mrs. (Senator) Macdonald, with Mrs. Cridge, were +the founders of the Protestant Orphans’ Home, through Mrs. Macdonald +having a family of orphan children brought to her notice by some +friend. She first of all found homes for the individual children; +then as other cases were brought to her notice she, with Mrs. Cridge, +took the matter up and rented a cottage, putting a Miss Todd in +charge of the children. In course of time, the children increased, so +that a larger building was rented on the corner of Blanchard and Rae +Streets. Even these premises in time became too small, and another +and final move was made through the munificence of the late John +George Taylor, a member of Bishop Cridge’s congregation, who left all +his property, some thirty thousand dollars, to the founding of the +present home.</p> + +<p>Mr. Taylor, whom I had known for many years, told me of the great +interest he took in these orphans. He paid daily visits to the home, +and assisted in many ways to help it along. Bishop Cridge and Mrs. +Macdonald have seen these institutions grow from the smallest +beginnings to their present state of usefulness, which must be a +source of congratulation to both.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.228</p> + +<h4 class="sc">Craigflower School House.</h4> + +<p>With respect to what has appeared in the paper lately <i>re</i> +"Craigflower School House," the following may be interesting:</p> + +<p>In early days (1856) Rev. Edward Cridge held services at stated times +in the school house, and later on services were held regularly by the +chaplains of H.M. ships stationed in Esquimalt harbor, and later on +by Rev. (now Bishop) Garrett and Rev. C. T. Woods.</p> + +<p>I quote from Mr. Cridge’s diary, which is mentioned in his Christmas +story of "Early Christmas in Victoria," that on August 24th, 1856, he +held a religious service in the school house with Mr. Cook, the +gunner, and Mr. Price, midshipman of H. M. S. <i>Trincomalee</i>.</p> + +<p>In the Victoria <i>Gazette</i> of August, 1858, Rev. Edward Cridge, +acting for the Governor, examined the pupils and presented the prizes +to the following: Jessie McKenzie, William Lidgate, Christine Veitch +and Dorothea McKenzie.</p> + +<p>The first master of the school was J. Grant; the second Claypole, and +afterwards Pottinger, Newbury and Pope.</p> + +<p>With respect to the building itself, I might say that it was built +under the direction of Mr. McKenzie, of Craigflower. The lumber used +in its construction was manufactured from fir trees on the ground in +a mill built by mechanics sent out from England.</p> + +<p>The residence of the late Mr. McKenzie, which stands to the west of +the Craigflower bridge, was also built of lumber sawn in this mill, +and not of redwood imported from California, as stated lately. There +are several men and women living to-day who attended this school in +the early sixties.</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img42"> +<img width="540" height="435" src="images/vi42.jpg" alt="[Illustration: Craigflower School.]" /> +</div> + +<p class="pagenum">p.229</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov33">CHAPTER XXXIII.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">VICTORIA’S FIRST Y.M.C.A.</p> + +<p>The <i>Colonist</i> has been handed the following self-explanatory +matter, bearing upon the founding in this city of a branch of the +Y.M.C.A., which is of especial interest:</p> + +<p class="dateline">"Dingley Dell, September 29th, 1911.</p> + +<p>"<i>R. B. McMicking, Esq., President Y.M.C.A.</i></p> + +<p>"Dear Sir,—In searching through the files of the <i>Colonist</i> of +1859 for items of forgotten lore that might be of interest to our +early pioneers, I came across the enclosed interesting account of the +forming of a branch of the Young Men’s Christian Association in +Victoria fifty-two years ago (September 5th, 1859), and am sorry I +did not remember it sooner, so that it could have been read at the +opening exercises, but ‘better late than never.’ I shall accompany it +with some comment.</p> + +<p>"In the first place, it is likely that all those present on that +auspicious occasion are gone to their everlasting rest, with the +notable exception of our dear friend, the Venerable Bishop Cridge, +who is within a few weeks of entering on his ninety-fifth year. His +has been indeed a life of doing good, for he, in early days, was at +the head of all good work for the betterment of mankind. The chairman +on that occasion was Colonel Moody, R.E., who had lately arrived in +the colony with the sappers and miners.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.230</p> + +<p>"The three Protestant denominations then established in Victoria were +represented by the Rev. Edward Cridge, as already stated; Rev. Dr. +Evans, of the Wesleyan Methodists, and the Rev. W. F. Clarke, of the +Congregational Church. Of the laymen mentioned, there was Judge +Pemberton, father of Mr. Chartres Pemberton; J. T. Pidwell, father of +the late Mrs. D. W. Higgins; Judge Cameron, C.J.; Captain Prevost, +father of Charles J. Prevost, of Duncans, who was a very prominent +naval officer, and later an admiral, who was an indefatigable +Christian worker. Mr. Sparrow, of the post-office, whose son is a +respected resident to-day, and also William H. Burr, master of the +Colonial School, of which I was then a pupil. Mr. John F. Damon, on +second thoughts, may be in the land of the living, and a resident of +Washington. The society must have fallen into disuse in later years, +for I understand the present institution is about twenty-six years +old. I do not know that I can say anything more on this interesting +subject but to wish it every prosperity.</p> + +<p class="sig" style="padding-right:4em;">"And believe me ever, yours truly,</p> + +<p class="sig sc">"Edgar Fawcett."</p> + + +<p>From Victoria <i>Colonist</i> of September 5th, 1859:</p> + +<p>"Pursuant to public notice the Supreme Court room was filled on +Saturday evening by a large and respectable audience for the purpose +of organizing a Young Men’s Christian Association.</p> + +<p>"Colonel Moody, R.E., on taking the chair, requested the Rev. E. +Evans, D.D., Superintendent of the Wesleyan Mission, to open the +meeting by prayer; after which the chairman explained the object of +the Association, and urged with great cogency the importance <span class="pagenum">p.231</span> of +scientific and historical knowledge to young men, and the immense +advantages which they would derive from Divine assistance in pursuing +those various branches of study which were essential to the good +citizen and Christian.</p> + +<p>"The Rev. E. Cridge, pastor of the Victoria Established Church, then +moved the following resolution:</p> + +<p>"‘That this meeting, recognizing the usefulness and importance of +Young Men’s Christian Associations, is gratified to find that steps +have been taken to establish one in this town.’</p> + +<p>"He supported it at some length with many pertinent illustrations, +and expressed himself warmly in favor of the institution.</p> + +<p>"T. J. Pidwell, Esq., seconded the motion. He adverted to the good +results from similar institutions elsewhere; passed some strictures +upon the alarming increase of saloons, and concluded that the +organization of a Christian Association with its Library, and the +opportunity which it would afford for the discussion of general +theological and political questions would have a powerful tendency to +guard the young men of this colony from falling into habits +destructive of good morals.</p> + +<p>"The Rev. Dr. Evans, with an eloquent and forcible speech then moved:</p> + +<p>"‘That this meeting pledge itself to encourage and support by every +means in its power this the first Young Men’s Christian Association +established in Vancouver’s Island.’</p> + +<p>"His remarks exhibited the greatest degree of tolerance. All narrow +views in the organization and working of the Association were +undesirable. To cherish the great essentials of religion as laid down +by the founder <span class="pagenum">p.232</span> of Christianity was the principal object of the +institution. The moral and spiritual advantages to the young men of +the colony arising from the Association he was satisfied would be +very great. It deserved every encouragement, and he heartily +concurred in promoting the object of its founders, and hoped it +would not only secure moral but financial support.</p> + +<p>"The Rev. W. F. Clarke, Congregational Missionary, with great +pleasure seconded the motion, and supported it with a speech of +considerable length, replete with argument and illustration, +portraying the advantages of the Association in a community like +this, where there was so little public opinion to influence and +direct young men; whilst there were so many things incident to the +love of money in a gold country to induce youth to contract habits +adverse to the progress of morals and religion.</p> + +<p>"A. F. Pemberton, Esq., then moved: ‘That the following gentlemen be +requested to act as office-bearers for the ensuing year. Patron, +His Excellency, the Governor; President, Col. Moody, R.E.; +Vice-Presidents, Judge Cameron and Captain Prevost, R.N.; Committee, +Messrs. A. F. Pemberton, Pidwell, Sparrow, Burr, Holt, Damon, Evans +and Cunningham, with power to add to their numbers; Secretary, Mr. +Cooper.’</p> + +<p>"He concurred in the object of the Association; and briefly adverted +to the fact that the Rev. Mr. Cridge and himself had, a year ago, +contemplated a similar institution.</p> + +<p>"John Wright, Esq., seconded the motion.</p> + +<p>"Col. Moody having retired from the chair, it was filled by J. T. +Pidwell, Esq., when the Rev. Dr. Evans moved ‘That the thanks of the +meeting be presented to Col. Moody for the very able manner in which +he had occupied the Chair.’</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.233</p> + +<p>"Seconded by the Rev. Mr. Clarke, and passed with applause.</p> + +<p>"Col. Moody then briefly replied that he came here from England with +the sole object of promoting the best interests of the country, and +in aiding in the promotion of the objects of this Association he was +but performing his duty.</p> + +<p>"All the speakers were repeatedly applauded; and all the resolutions +passed by acclamation.</p> + +<p>"The Doxology having been sung, the Rev. E. Cridge pronounced a +benediction, when the meeting dispersed, highly gratified with the +organization of the First Young Men’s Christian Association of +Victoria, Vancouver Island."</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img43"> +<img width="523" height="840" src="images/vi43.jpg" alt="[Illustration: Sir Richard McBride.]" /> +</div> + +<p class="pagenum">p.234</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov34">CHAPTER XXXIV.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">THE LATE MR. T. GEIGER.</p> + +<p>About thirty-five years ago, maybe a little more, it was a fine +bright summer afternoon and rather warm. The sun beat down on the +awnings on the east side of Government Street. It was the custom then +for all stores to have wooden awnings with a kind of drop curtain +awning which rolled up and down, and on the summer afternoons it was +sure to be down. But to proceed; when all these drop curtains were +down the sidewalk was enclosed from one end of the street to the +other. Before I proceed to say anything more about these awnings and +sidewalks, I will have to admit that our city was not the Victoria of +to-day, and I am sure I shall hardly be credited if I assert that a +cannon might have been fired down the centre of Government Street, +and chances taken of not striking anyone. I mean that a time could +have been chosen when it could have been done with perfect safety. On +any of these quiet afternoons, a sudden uproar might have been heard +of a flock of geese alighting from a distance on Government Street to +feed on the sides of the streets on the grass that grew there. As +they passed up the street they chattered away, likely discussing the +quiet times which permitted them to make a feeding ground of the +chief business street of the city. During the time the geese are +chatting with one another, several little groups of Victoria’s +respected citizens are having <span class="pagenum">p.235</span> their afternoon chat on the several +topics of the day. I see them now, as I saw them then, a row of +chairs, some of them tipped back and the occupier perhaps smoking. +There was, likely, Alexander Gilmore, merchant tailor. Then half a +dozen guests in the front of the Colonial Hotel, which was next door +to Fletcher’s music store; then Joe Lovett of Lovett’s Exchange, and +then the subject of my little sketch, Tommy Geiger. He was well known +and well liked by all, and fond of a joke was Tommy. No one ever +thought of calling him other than "Tommy" in those good old days. +Very few fortunes were made in those days on Government Street, or +those summer afternoon chats, sitting on tipped-up chairs would not +have been held.</p> + +<p>It must have been a slack time of the day to be able to enjoy +themselves in this free and easy manner. A customer goes into one of +these stores, the proprietor gets up, goes in to serve him, and then +returns to his seat to resume the conversation. They did not worry, +they lived quietly, were able to bring up their families as they +should, and to-day these families represent some of our best business +men. So I say "<i>requiescat in pace</i>." He was an enthusiastic +fireman in those days when volunteer firemen did so much for nothing +and that efficiently, too.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.236</p> + + +<h4>THE ROSTER OF THE "FIFTY-EIGHTERS" IN THE PROVINCE.</h4> + +<p>The following is a list of those who remain of the twenty thousand +people who arrived in Victoria from San Francisco in 1858, the first +year of the gold excitement:</p> + +<table> +<tr><td>Anderson, James R.</td><td>November.</td><td>Str. Cortez, from San Francisco.</td><td>Ar. with sister; retired Deputy Minister of Agriculture</td></tr> +<tr><td>Adams, Frank.</td><td>July</td><td>Str. Pacific, from San Francisco.</td><td>Ar. young, with father and mother; now with firm of E. B. Marvin & Co.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Allatt, Frederick.</td><td>August 12.</td><td>Str. John L. Stephens, from S. Francisco.</td><td>Ar. young, with father and mother; now carpenter and contractor</td></tr> +<tr><td>Alexander, Charles.</td><td>March.</td><td>Str. Oregon, from San Francisco.</td><td>Ar. with wife and son</td></tr> +<tr><td>Borde, August.</td><td>April.</td><td>Str. America, from San Francisco.</td><td>Ar. with father and mother; now Municipal Water Rates Collector</td></tr> +<tr><td>Booth, Samuel.</td><td>September.</td><td>Str. Cortez, from San Francisco.</td><td>Ar. with brother</td></tr> +<tr><td>Borthwick, Ralph.</td><td>July 7.</td><td>Str. Orizaba, from San Francisco.</td><td>Ar. single; hotel-keeper</td></tr> +<tr><td>Burnes, Thomas J.</td><td>May 11.</td><td>Str. Commodore, from San Francisco.</td><td>Ar. single; hotel-keeper, now Customs Officer; was prominent fireman in early days</td></tr> +<tr><td>Chambers, Walter.</td><td></td><td></td><td>Ar. with father and mother</td></tr> +<tr><td>Cogan, Mrs. George.</td><td>August.</td><td>Ship Oracle, from San Francisco.</td><td>Ar. with father and mother</td></tr> +<tr><td>Collins, Henry.</td><td>August.</td><td>Ship Oracle, from San Francisco.</td><td>Ar. with father and mother</td></tr> +<tr><td>Gribble, Henry.</td><td>June.</td><td>Str. Republic from San Francisco.</td><td>Ar. single; gold miner, then engaged in retail business</td></tr> +<tr><td>Harrison, Mrs. Eli, Sr.</td><td>July.</td><td>Str. Brother Jonathan, from S. Francisco.</td><td>Ar. with husband, son and daughter</td></tr> +<tr><td>Harrison, Eli.</td><td>July.</td><td>Str. Brother Jonathan, from S. Francisco.</td><td>Ar. with father, mother and sister; now Judge</td></tr> +<tr><td>Hastings, Mrs. Oregon C.</td><td>August.</td><td>Ship Oracle, from San Francisco.</td><td>Ar. with father, mother and sister. Maiden name Layzell</td></tr> +<tr><td>Helgeson, Hans.</td><td>July 4.</td><td>Str. Brother Jonathan, from S. Francisco.</td><td>Ar. single</td></tr> +<tr><td>Higgins, David W.</td><td>July 19.</td><td>Str. Sierra Nevada, from San Francisco.</td><td>Ar. single; newspaper proprietor, retired</td></tr> +<tr><td>Humphreys, William.</td><td>Dec. 28.</td><td>Overland, from California.</td><td>Ar. single; gold miner, now in Customs</td></tr> +<tr><td>Lombard, Charles.</td><td>August.</td><td>Str. Oregon, from San Francisco.</td><td>Ar. with father and mother; now in the optical business</td></tr> +<tr><td>Marvin, Mrs. Edward.</td><td>July.</td><td>Str. Pacific, from San Francisco.</td><td>Ar. with husband and son</td></tr> +<tr><td>McPhadden, Mrs.</td><td>July.</td><td>Str. Brother Jonathan, from S. Francisco.</td><td>Ar. with father, mother and brother. Maiden name Harrison</td></tr> +<tr><td>Moore, John.</td><td>July.</td><td>Str. Cortez, from San Francisco.</td><td>Ar. with father, mother and brother. Purser C.P.R. Co.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Moore, William.</td><td>July.</td><td>Str. Cortez, from San Francisco.</td><td>Ar. with father, mother and brother. Miner in Alaska</td></tr> +<tr><td>Moore, James.</td><td>May.</td><td>Via Bellingham Bay, from San Francisco.</td><td>Ar. single; gold miner</td></tr> +<tr><td>Phillips, Mrs. Alexander.</td><td>July.</td><td>Str. Pacific, from San Francisco.</td><td>Ar. with husband and son. Resident of Seattle, Wash.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Phelps, Mrs. Edward.</td><td>August.</td><td>Ship Oracle, from San Francisco.</td><td>Ar. with husband; now widow in this city</td></tr> +<tr><td>Scott, Mrs. William.</td><td>June.</td><td>Barque George Anna, from San Francisco.</td><td>Ar. with husband; now widow in this city</td></tr> +<tr><td>Seward, Thomas W.</td><td>May.</td><td>Barque D. M. Hall, from San Francisco.</td><td>Ar. single; gold miner</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sere, John B.</td><td>June 11.</td><td>Str. Republic from San Francisco.</td><td>Ar. with wife and son; was prominent hotel-keeper—Hotel de France</td></tr> +<tr><td>Stelly, George.</td><td>May.</td><td>Str. Oregon, from San Francisco.</td><td>Ar. single; contractor</td></tr> +<tr><td>Wolfenden, Mrs. H.</td><td>August.</td><td>Ship Oracle from San Francisco.</td><td>Ar. with father and mother</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>This list and statement has been compiled with the greatest care +by the undersigned, who has lived in this city continuously since +February 13th, 1859, when he arrived with his mother and three +brothers on the steamer Northerner, from San Francisco, Cal., +his father, Thomas Lea Fawcett, having arrived the previous year, +July, 1858.</p> + +<p class="dateline">Sept. 1st, 1908.</p> +<p class="sig">EDGAR FAWCETT.</p> + +<p>The undersigned, who has lived in this city since July, 1858, +certifies to the correctness of this statement.</p> + +<p class="sig">D. W. HIGGINS.</p> + +<p><em class="sc">Note</em>—Since the original list was compiled in 1908, thirteen +have since died, leaving thirty-one remaining, as per above list, on +March 1st, 1912.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.237</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov35">CHAPTER XXXV.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">ROSTER OF THE FIFTY-EIGHTERS</p> + +<p>Being those remaining in 1908 of the 20,000 people who came to +Victoria from California in the year 1858. Total, 45.—E. F.</p> + +<p>Before the year 1858, Victoria was a trading station or fort of the +Hudson’s Bay Company. In that year the news that gold had been +discovered on Fraser River had reached San Francisco. It was not long +ere the news travelled all over California and craft of all kinds +were soon on the berth for Victoria. The list of steamers alone is +a long one, and they were mostly taken off the Panama route, and +are all to-day a thing of the past. There was the <i>Pacific</i>, the +loss of which caused the greatest loss of life of them all put +together, the <i>Cortez</i>, <i>John L. Stephens</i>, <i>Oregon</i>, <i>America</i>, +afterwards the <i>Brother Jonathan</i>, <i>Orizaba</i>, <i>Commodore</i>, +<i>Republic</i>, <i>Sierra Nevada</i>, and several smaller ones.</p> + +<p>Of those on the framed list there is Frank Adams, who has spent the +best part of his life here, and is a partner in the firm of E. B. +Marvin & Co.; James R. Anderson, late deputy minister of Agriculture, +whose father was the first Collector of Customs for Vancouver Island +in 1858; Frederick Allatt, who has also been here from childhood, and +whose father was an early time contractor; Charles Alexander, of +Saanich; August Borde and his mother, the former water rates +collector <span class="pagenum">p.238</span> for the city; Samuel Booth, who was in business in the +city market building; Ralph Borthwick, and Thomas J. Burnes, formerly +hotel men, and the latter a chief of the early Volunteer Fire +Department. Walter Chambers, who came an infant, and who is so well +known in connection with the lumber industry of this city; Mrs. +George Cogan and Mrs. Henry Collins, two daughters of the late Mr. +Rabson, of Esquimalt and Comox; Alexander Gilmore, one of the pioneer +clothiers of this city; Henry Gribble, who for years kept a fancy +goods store, and who is to-day blind; Mr. Judge Harrison and his +mother, whom I have known since 1859; Mrs. O. C. Hastings, <i>née</i> +Miss Layzell, with whom I went to school in 1859; David W. Higgins, +of whom I need say little, as he is so well known as an editor and +writer of such interesting stories of early pioneer life; William +Humphreys, late alderman and Cariboo miner; Samuel Kelly, who was +another prominent volunteer fireman, chief of the early fire +department; Charles Lombard, who was an amateur singer, assisted to +make life pass pleasantly at the various concerts of early times; +Mrs. Edward Marvin, mother of Mr. Frank Adams; Mrs. McPhaden, of +Vancouver, and sister of Judge Harrison; Captain William Moore, the +veteran steamboat captain, one of the best known men of British +Columbia; Mrs. Moore, John Moore, the veteran purser, and his brother +William; James Moore, one of the discoverers of gold on the Fraser +River; Mrs. Alex. Phillips, her son, whose husband and father was a +pioneer soda water maker of the early days; Mrs. W. Scott, whose +husband was steward on so many of the early steamers of these waters; +Louis G. McQuade, of P. McQuade & Sons; Thomas W. Seward, a veteran +miner of Cariboo, and who is a familiar figure on our <span class="pagenum">p.239</span> streets +to-day as he strolls about; John B. Sere, of the Richmond, a former +proprietor of the Hotel de France, on Government Street; Chas. +McK. Smith, brother of Amor de Cosmos, founder of the <i>Colonist</i>; +Stephen A. Spencer, a pioneer photographer; George Stelly, owner +of the Clarence Block, and a pioneer teamster of long ago; Frank +Sylvester, who died a month ago; Mrs. Julia Travis; Joseph W. Carey, +formerly mayor; E. Cody Johnson, caretaker of the city market; Mrs. +R. Wolfenden, wife of the King’s Printer. This list will be framed +and hung in the Parliament Buildings for the inspection of the sons +and daughters of the above in the years to come.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.240</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov36">CHAPTER XXXVI.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">MORE LIGHT ON CLOSING OF VIEW STREET.</p> + +<p>I had intended to let "View Street" and its closing up in 1858 alone, +being content that I had proved that it was understood in 1858 that +it reached to Wharf Street, but I have since come upon some +interesting evidence bearing upon it and so give it to those old +timers whom I am sure will be interested. Firstly, there is to be +seen plainly painted on a verandah on a building facing on what was +then known as View Street, opposite the Hudson Bay Company’s store +"View Street," and I also produce an editorial in the <i>Colonist</i>, +written by my old friend Amor de Cosmos, November 14, 1859, which +proves that it was a burning question at that time and here it +is verbatim.</p> + +<blockquote style="text-align:center;"><p> + The British <i>Colonist</i>, Printed and Published by Amor<br /> + De Cosmos, Wharf Street, East side, between<br /> + Yates and View Streets, Victoria, V. I.<br /> + Friday, September 9, 1859.</p></blockquote> + +<p>This was cut out of the file that contained the editorial, as +further proof.</p> +<p class="sig sc">E. Fawcett.</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img44"> +<img width="391" height="269" src="images/vi44.jpg" alt="[Illustration: View St.]" /> +</div> + +<p>"We have long been aware that the Hudson’s Bay Company claim the +ownership of the streets of Victoria. In fact, in 1858 their title +was so far asserted as to sell a portion of the street where Johnson +and Wharf Streets unite at Victoria bridge.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.241</p> + +<p>"They also shut up one street at the south end of the Fort and opened +another a little beyond. Besides this they promised in 1838 to the +purchasers of lots on View Street that that street should be opened +from Broad to Wharf. Instead of fulfilling their promise like an +honest company, that street was actually closed, instead of opened, +by blocking up the west end by a large brick police building. It is +true that since May last—when the Government reserve between Yates +and the block house was seized by the Company, with the consent of +His Excellency—a small alley has been opened where View Street ought +to be, but even that by some unknown authority, assumed by the Police +Commissioners, has been closed to vehicles. That authority will, +however, soon be tested, if the obstacle is not speedily removed, as +purchasers of lots in the reserve are entitled to its use. Had it not +been for our timely exposure of the intentions of the Company, the +line of Wharf Street would have been deflected like an elbow, from +Reid’s corner southerly. The last act, however, of the honorable +Hudson’s Bay Company, is not only contemptible, but ‘unjust and +oppressive,’ although His Excellency Governor Douglas, in his +despatch of October 25, 1858, said that the often asserted charge in +England that the Company ‘had made an unjust and oppressive use of +their power in this country,’ is altogether unfounded.</p> + +<p>"It appears that the agent of the Company sold last week all the +trees on our streets to a party for firewood. Mr. Pemberton, Police +Commissioner, at the request of some property holders, cut down the +two oaks at the corner of Government and Yates Street, but it was no +sooner done than Dr. Tuzo presented a bill to him for twenty dollars, +ten dollars each. Opposite Mr. Adams’ <span class="pagenum">p.242</span> property on Douglas and +View Streets, Mr. Adams forbid the parties, but in his absence they +were felled. He then claimed the trees, as they were intersected +every way by his property. But Dr. Tuzo threatened him with five +hundred dollars damages, assuring him that the trees belonged to the +Company. Up Fort Street a number of oaks have been felled. Aside +from the vandalism which would sell and cut down a single tree +for a few paltry dollars, where it was no obstruction to travel, +but an ornament to the street—the act of itself is a foul +wrong—unwarrantable and without a particle of right to support it, +either in law or equity. We cannot well conceive how that the +agents of the Company could do such a scurvy trick—such an act +of vandalism—except that they have been influenced to do so by a +resident San Francisco landshark. Selling the trees therefore may +be to maintain color of title to the streets. But that will prove +useless. Viewing the townsite as their private property, when they +sold they forever conveyed away their claim to the streets. But the +townsite is not private property, although it has unjustifiably been +so claimed from the first settlement of the Colony. As private +property the Company have no claim to it which will stand the test +of law or equity. It is to all intents and purposes in the same +condition as the lands of Cowichan, Nootka or Cape Scott; and the +funds derived from the sale as justly belong to the Territorial +revenues of the Colony. Taking then the townsite to be like other +lands, subject to the conditions of the grant, (which we will +hereafter prove) we find that one of the conditions says: ‘That the +said Company shall (for the purposes of colonization) dispose of all +lands hereby granted to them, at a reasonable price, except as much +thereof as may be required for public purposes.’ <span class="pagenum">p.243</span> The streets are +used for public purposes—and for that reason the Company have no +more right to them, nor the trees, than anyone else. Their act of +felling trees on the public streets, and their intimation, deserves +the strongest mark of public censure—and merits the attention of +the proper authorities.</p> + +<p>"Besides if our connection with the Hudson’s Bay Company is not +speedily ended we may expect many more such trumped-up claims as +their claim to the streets, which they will want us to pay for."</p> + +<p>I think my pioneer friends will now agree with me that enough +evidence has been furnished to prove my contention that View Street +was originally intended to reach from Wharf Street to Cook Street, +and farther if necessary.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.244</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov37">CHAPTER XXXVII.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">BISHOP CRIDGE’S CHRISTMAS STORY.</p> + +<div style="font-size:95%;margin:auto 1em;"> +<p>Some years ago the <i>Colonist</i> requested several "old timers" +to write for the Christmas number a description of Christmas as it +was observed in the early days in this city.</p> + +<p>The following were those who wrote: The Venerable Bishop Cridge, Hon. +Dr. Helmcken, Hon. D. W. Higgins, and the author of these +reminiscences. I was so much interested myself in these stories (as I +am in all Christmas stories), I decided, with the consent of the +writers, to reproduce them in my book; not only as interesting, but +as very instructive, describing, as they do, life in the pioneer days +of the colony.</p> +</div> +<div class="imgright" id="img45"> +<img width="269" height="443" src="images/vi45.jpg" alt="[Portrait: Rev. Edward Cridge, 1859.]" /> +</div> + +<p>In essaying to write an account of my first Christmas at Victoria, I +am met at the beginning with the inconvenient fact that I kept no +journal, my only written records relating simply to my ministry or to +things purely personal or domestic. What I write, therefore, is not a +history, seeking materials from any and all sources of information, +nor a biography, dealing with the writer’s proper business in life, +but a narrative of incidents occurring to memory, interesting to the +reader only because they refer to the early history of our beloved +city.</p> + +<p>Another thing has to be considered, namely, that as, after fifty +years and more, the remembered incidents of a particular day or +season would occupy but a few lines to relate, such a season may +properly be regarded in relation to things going before and things +following after.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.245</p> + +<p>In this view, my memory carries me back to a very happy day, April 1, +1855, when the good sailing ship <i>Margius of Bute</i>, chartered by +the Hudson’s Bay Company to bring its freight and passengers, +including myself as chaplain and district minister of Victoria, my +wife and servants, to this far-off island, calling at Honolulu by the +way, cast anchor off Clover Point, so terminating a voyage of about +six months’ duration from London. The next day, having moved to the +inner harbor, we made our first acquaintance with several Victorians, +who came on board to give us and our <i>compagnons de voyage</i> a +cordial welcome. That same morning we received an invitation from His +Excellency Governor Douglas to luncheon, who also sent a boat to take +us ashore; the boatman was good John Spelde, concerning whom I +curiously remember my wife telling me that her domestic, Mary Ann +Herbert, referred to him later in the day as the "man with the +fingers," he having lost three of those members in the firing of a +salute on some ceremonial occasion.</p> + +<p>After the luncheon, never to be forgotten for the cordial welcome of +His Excellency and Mrs. Douglas and their interesting family, not to +say the delicious salmon and other delicacies after shipboard fare, +we were conducted to the Fort, which was to be our temporary abode +till the Parsonage, which then began to be built, should be finished. +I have no recollection of the impression produced on my mind as we +entered by the south gate the large square fenced in by tall +palisades and frowning bastions, only I am certain I had no fear of +being imprisoned in this stronghold of the great Adventurers; on the +contrary, I distinctly remember that as, proceeding past the central +bell-tower to our rooms, on the north side, east of the main +entrance, we <span class="pagenum">p.246</span> entered the spacious, though empty, apartments +destined for our reception, my wife fairly danced for joy at our +release from the long and tedious confinement on shipboard. The very +emptiness of the rooms was a charm. It was the new home to which from +her mother’s house in London only a few days before sailing together +to the other end of the world, I had brought her, and what bride does +not joy to see her work awaiting her, though the house be empty and +bare! With the help of our two servants, and local carpenters, +supplies from the Company’s stores, and our ample outfit, she soon +effected a transformation.</p> + +<p>I remember also, something of the evening and night of that first +day; the tea and fresh milk and bread and butter; and how, when +settling ourselves to sleep for the night, we saw a large white rat +crossing the stovepipe which ran through our bedroom from the great +Canadian stove in the sitting-room. It is curious how trifling things +cleave to the memory, while the monotonous things of everyday life, +which are our proper business, give no signal.</p> + +<p>The next morning I was introduced to several officers and cadets of +the company messing at the Port: W. J. Macdonald, now our well-known +representative in the Senate; B. W. Sangster, Farquhar, Mackay, +Newton, Sangster (Sangster’s Plains Postmaster), also to Chief Factor +Finlaison, who lived in a house in the southwest corner of the Port; +and Dr. Helmcken, now, for reasons of state, the Hon. J. S. Helmcken, +residing with his wife in the house which he still occupies; later J. +D. Pemberton, who returned from England, bringing his sister, Miss +Pemberton.</p> + +<p>Looking back now to my first Sunday service, I have no recollection +of it as distinguished from other similar <span class="pagenum">p.247</span> services to follow. +From my written records only I find that the text of my sermon on +the occasion was, "Go ye into all the world and preach the gospel to +every creature," and that I referred in the conclusion to the Crimean +War just ended; but there is pictured in my memory the figure of a +man coming past the bell-tower with a prayer book under his arm, +"going to church." Him I was afterwards to know as good John Dutnall, +a dear and faithful friend to me as long as he lived.</p> + +<p>The church services were held in the messroom. There was no +instrument and no organized choir. Of those whose voices contributed +to this part of divine worship I think only Mrs. W. J. Macdonald +survives.</p> + +<p>As to my first Christmas Day, which this year (’55) fell on a +Tuesday, I can remember nothing of it as distinguished from other +Christmas Days to follow (more than fifty in number); but my records +say that my text was, "Glory to God in the highest, and on earth +peace, goodwill towards men." But where we dined, what we had for +dinner, or how we spent the day, my wife might have told, but I +cannot. I know that we spent many Christmas evenings at the +Governor’s very pleasantly, and this may have been, and probably was, +one of them. I remember that one New Year’s Eve there was a violent +snowstorm, which hindered me from holding a service at Craigflower, +as I had intended, but my records show what I do not in the least +remember, that I preached at Craigflower on New Year’s Day. I also +remember that by Christmas Day we had moved into the Parsonage, and +that my two sisters, who had arrived at Esquimalt from England, a +week before, were with us on that day. I remember a good deal about +the Parsonage in those early days. It was almost <span class="pagenum">p.248</span> in the country. +As it was at first unfenced, my wife was often afraid at noises. One +night we heard a scraping, and she was sure that someone was breaking +into the house. I tried to persuade her that burglars did not +announce their presence in that open fashion. However, to reassure +her, I reconnoitred, and found it was only an old sow rubbing her +back against an old shed nearby.</p> + +<p>The Parsonage ground was all wild, but the soil good, and as it was +my future home, the task of trying to make it a worthy appendage of +the district church was a pleasant one. My servant, James Ravey, was +a good gardener, but rather more inclined to the useful than the +ornamental. When my wife wanted to enlist his interest in flower +gardening, he remarked that the flowers he had liked best were +cauliflowers. However, she had her way, he nothing loath. Dr. +Helmcken liberally supplied us with a variety of flowers from his +well-kept garden, among which I remember daisies—not the wee, +modest, crimson-tipped flowers, but variegated beauties, gorgeous +through ages of culture. There was not a wild daisy in the country; +but now they are spreading everywhere, as if when left alone they +preferred their natural state. The Governor also took a kindly +interest in the work, offering valuable hints as to the planting of +fruit trees, etc. Mr. Work, of Hillside, also sent me a fine lot of +young ornamental trees, which flourished well. A good gardening book +was loaned me of the company—a long loan, I think, as I have +possession of it still.</p> + +<p>So the garden, though nothing to boast of in the artistic point of +view, yielded abundance of fruit.</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img46"> +<img width="394" height="307" src="images/vi46.jpg" alt="[Portrait: Bishop and Mrs. Cridge.]" /> +</div> + +<p>But if it were pleasant to get into the Parsonage, it by no means +follows that life in the Fort was dreary; <span class="pagenum">p.249</span> on the contrary, some +of our happiest hours were spent there. Besides my satisfaction with +the present and hopes for the future, coupled with the companionship +of one who had full possession of my heart and life, we were forming +and cementing friendships which were to endure for many a long year. +Not only this—there were pleasant musical and social evenings. There +were voices and instruments; Mrs. Mouat, with the piano brought out +with her from England; Mr. Augustus Pemberton, lately arrived from +Ireland with his flute; Mr. B. W. Pearse, with his violin; I did what +I could with my ’cello, the instrument my father had and played when +a boy.</p> + +<p>It was also during those early days that we, my wife and I, had our +first experience of the Governor’s delightful riding parties on +Saturday afternoons, when the officers of the Company and friends, +their wives and daughters, rode merrily across the country unimpeded +by gates or bars. I remember the first, when my wife, who did not +ride, had her first drive in the Governor’s carriage—a homemade +vehicle, without springs, as befitted the times and the place; our +destination was Cadboro Bay, which we reached by a trail which, +beginning near the Fort, lay all through open country without a house +or field till we arrived at the Company’s farm at that beautiful +spot; and though I cannot remember what we did there on that day, I +remember well that on many another day I had to send man and horse +there for meat for my family.</p> + +<p>On another occasion our ride lying along the Saanich trail, when near +the North Dairy farm the Governor called a halt; a man stepped out +and fired up into a tree and a grouse fell dead; he reloaded and +fired up into the same tree again and another grouse fell dead. <span class="pagenum">p.250</span> +I, if no one else in the party, was astonished at conduct so +different from that of birds in civilized countries. Whether it was +the proper time for grouse-shooting I know not, for I have no record +of the date, nor, indeed, of the occurrence. Perhaps the Natural +History Society might be able to explain why the second bird behaved +as it did. I think it was in the same ride that another halt was +called, it being reported that a bear was in a thicket near the +trail. All listened and looked, and when I remarked to the Governor +that I thought I heard the creature roar, His Excellency said, "Bears +do not roar!" I believe he was right, for though we read in both +versions of the Bible, "We all roar like bears," I have reason to +believe that the translation is incorrect, besides believing also +that the man whose life is largely spent in the wilds is more likely +to be right on such a point than the scholar in his study. Perhaps +the Natural History Society may throw some light on this question +also: "Do bears roar?"</p> + +<p>In those early days there were frequently several men-of-war in +Esquimalt harbor at once. Being the only Protestant clergyman then in +the Island, I often visited them and had much pleasant intercourse +with the officers. But my memory serves me little as to particulars. +I find the following entries:</p> + +<p>"Aug. 28, ’55.—Attended a prayer meeting on board H. M. S. +<i>Trincomalee</i>."</p> + +<p>"Sept. 9, ’55.—<i>Trincomalee</i> sailed and <i>President</i> +arrived."</p> + +<p>"Oct. 28, ’55.—The Reverend Holme, Chaplain of H. M. S. +<i>President</i>, preached for me in the afternoon at the Fort."</p> + +<p>"Aug. 11, ’55.—H. M. S. <i>Monarch</i> arrived."</p> + +<p>"Sept. 14, ’56.—Mr. Green, Chaplain of the <i>Monarch</i>, preached +for me in the afternoon;" also "on Sept. <span class="pagenum">p.251</span> 21." These last two +sermons were preached in the district church (called "Christ Church," +after my church in London), it having been opened and divine service +held therein the month before.</p> + +<p>"Aug. 30, ’56.—The Governor went in the <i>Trincomalee</i> to +Cowichan to demand the Indian who had lately shot a white man." The +wounded man was brought to the Fort, where I visited him. He +recovered and was sent away to be safe from the Indians’ vengeance. +The Indian who shot him was delivered up by his tribe, was tried and +executed in their presence.</p> + +<p>"Aug. 21, ’56.—Held a prayer meeting at the Parsonage, with Mr. +Cook, the gunner, and Mr. Price, midshipman, both of the +<i>Trincomalee</i>.</p> + +<p>"Aug. 24, ’56.—Held a prayer meeting with Mr. Cook, of the +<i>Trincomalee</i>, in the Craigflower school-room."</p> + +<p>From the above records it would appear that the <i>Trincomalee</i> +was in these waters over a year at this period. I think her presence +had to do with the Russian war. It was after Admiral Price shot +himself on account of some error he had committed in the war. I +remember the Governor saying to me one day, that he had received +instructions from the Home Government to build a hospital at +Esquimalt for some wounded sailors expected down from Petrapolowski, +but had not been told where the money was to come from. The hospital +was built, however, but I do not remember that any wounded were +brought; but I remember visiting afterwards a sick Victorian, who +died there. The present naval hospital is, I believe, the one I refer +to.</p> + +<p>About this time I remember an American ship-of-war coming with a +United States Commissioner on board to settle with Governor Douglas +the boundary between the <span class="pagenum">p.252</span> British and American territories on the +mainland, and his attending divine service in the district church, +and my including the United States President in the church prayers.</p> + +<p>I remember also my wife’s inviting Lieutenant Parry, of one of H. M. +ships, to stay a few days with us at our rooms in the Fort, he being +in delicate health and having just heard of the death of his father, +Sir Edward Parry, the celebrated Arctic navigator and explorer.</p> + +<p>As the latter died in July, 1835, the visit referred to would be +shortly after this. I have still the gold pencil case he gave me as a +memento of his visit. He died not long afterwards, and I had some +correspondence in reference to the sorrowful event with Bishop Parry +(his brother, I think).</p> + +<p>I remember also, though the names escape me, the captain of one of +the ships telling me a thrilling story of his recently finding the +remains of a Captain Gardiner and his party, who had been starved to +death on some shore in the neighborhood of Cape Horn, a tragedy which +caused widespread interest and pity at the time.</p> + +<p>At this time there were no local newspapers. Mails were received from +England once a fortnight, fetched by canoe from the American side; +ships from England once a year. The opening of the annual box from +friends there was an exciting event to my wife. <i>The Otter</i> +(Capt. Mouat) was occasionally sent to San Francisco for requisites. +In the same vessel I remember our going with Governor Douglas to San +Juan Island, then in possession of the British, and Mr. Griffin, the +Company’s officer in charge there, presenting my wife with a +beautiful fawn, which we brought back with us.</p> + +<p>I know not what the population of Victoria might be <span class="pagenum">p.253</span> at that +time, though I think two hundred would be the outside; the population +on the whole island being about six hundred. You could, I think, +count the houses on each of the four principal streets—Government, +Fort, Yates, Johnson—on the fingers on one hand. I only remember +three on James Bay side, to reach which, there being no bridge to +connect with Government Street, you had to go round by where the +Church of Our Lord now stands.</p> + +<p>For reasons which will presently appear, I regard the Christmas +season of 1855 as the ending of a first chapter of the very +remarkable history of this province of British Columbia, to be +followed by another in the ensuing year destined to include events +which the most far-seeing at the time could not possibly have +imagined. I write simply as an observer, included, indeed, in the +great movement, but not, strictly speaking, a working part of it. A +time was coming, as we now know, when a flood of people was suddenly +to overflow our city, sweeping onward to and over the mainland like a +tidal wave from the great ocean of life; but whether it was by some +fortunate chance decree of an overruling Providence, it did not come +till the city was better than of old and prepared to deal with it.</p> + +<p>The time had now come when the dual government—the <i>imperium in +imperio</i>—was to cease, and the people to stand in direct relation +to the sovereign. Influenced, as we have reason to believe, by +complaints of the settlers, it was decided by the Home authorities to +grant them a free constitution after the English model, so far as +popular representation was concerned. And so it came to pass that +within eight months after Christmas, 1855, the newly-elected +representatives of the people were, in the name of Her Majesty the +Queen, <span class="pagenum">p.254</span> called together by the Governor in a room within the Fort, +and by him, with counsel and prayer, commended to the long-coveted +duties of legislation. Thus was a small shoot of an Empire +unsurpassed for the freedom of its subjects well and truly planted in +the western shore of the vast possessions of Great Britain, this side +of the provinces in the East, and now did the people, rejoicing in +their freedom, begin to look for expansion and progress. But with +what hope? What was the prospect of their reaching the conditions +which we see to-day?</p> + +<div class="imgright" id="img47"> +<img width="261" height="444" src="images/vi47.jpg" alt="[Portrait: Bishop Cridge.]" /> +</div> + +<p>Looking at the more than twenty years it had taken to reach their +present population of six hundred souls; looking at the +inaccessibility of the Island to all but a few adventurous or wealthy +immigrants; allowing also full force to the new attraction of a land +whose people enjoyed the privilege of self-government; I think the +most sanguine in that day could not have expected such a result as we +see to-day in a less period than centuries to come. To us who know +what brought it to pass; to us who know that the real efficient cause +of the marvelous effect was the strongest passion and incentive to +adventure that ever actuated the mind of man, it all seems natural +and easy; but to the six hundred in 1856 it would have seemed a +dream. At the same time it must, I think, be admitted that such a +sudden inrush must have endangered, if not the independence, at least +the peace and order of the community on which it fell. For what, we +may ask, might have been the consequence if the cry of gold for the +picking up had been raised earlier, in the time, say, of the dual +government, when, as is well known, the people were discontented with +a government which, excellent as it confessedly was for the times, +had its own profit first of all to be <span class="pagenum">p.255</span> considered, instead of +coming, as it did, to a people which, rejoicing in its newly-found +freedom, was not to be reckoned on for favoring any schemes of +wildness or riot? I do not suggest any danger of invasion or +overthrow of the government when hundreds of thousands of +gold-seekers from the neighboring country filled the streets of our +little city; England’s far-reaching arm sufficed to cope with that; +but I do suggest danger to law and order afterwards. For this the +presence of warships in Esquimalt harbor could afford but slight +remedy. The remedy must be in the people themselves and in the +administration of law. A little leaven leavens a great lump, but in +this case the leaven of discontent being removed, the lump remained +uncontaminated. That this was how order was restored will appear from +what followed after the suppression of the disorder which broke out +among the miners at the beginning.</p> + +<p>Mr. Augustus F. Pemberton, commissioner of police, was staying at my +house when, after he had gone to bed, a message came from the Chief +of Police that the town was in an uproar, and that the miners were +threatening to take the city. Mr. Pemberton immediately repaired to +the Governor’s and reported. His Excellency’s first impulse was to +fix on his sword; but he changed his mind and sent a messenger +express to order a gunboat from Esquimalt. Meanwhile Mr. Pemberton +went into the city and conferred with the miners till the gunboat +arrived, and thus ended the matter.</p> + +<p>As I went with Mr. Pemberton to the Governor’s house and to the city +on this occasion, I write as an eye-witness. I may say that my +impression is that there was no serious intention on the part of the +miners as a body to take the city by force. I knew too many of <span class="pagenum">p.256</span> +them afterwards, of good and <a id="emen6">peaceable</a> conduct, to think it. But it +was well that the disorderly among them should begin their education +in English law by this prompt display of force.</p> + +<p>I now note a singular condition of things, as conducive to the +continuance and perpetuation of the order thus restored. The miners +at this time to the number, it was computed, of some ten thousand, +were encamped in the open spaces of the city, waiting for the most +suitable time for proceeding to the mainland in their search for +gold. I do not remember how long the time was that they waited, but +it was certainly some weeks. And what I wish emphatically to say is, +that this interval afforded them a unique opportunity of learning +what British law and order meant. Mr. Pemberton was their teacher. +Fearless, untiring and vigilant, he suppressed every disorder as it +arose. There was need.</p> + +<p>A man was killed in a duel on Church Hill. Thenceforth it was at a +man’s peril to be found with a revolver on his person, and so the +odious practice fell into disuse.</p> + +<p>The effect of this practical education in obedience to law on the +thousands thus gathered together in one place can easily be imagined. +Not only did they become peaceable and orderly, and even friendly, +while here, even meeting in a body to hear the Governor’s advice as +to their movements, but wherever they were scattered abroad on the +mainland, lawlessness was a thing unknown among them as a body, and +they wrought as if they remembered the Governor’s parting words which +still seem to sound in my ears: "There is gold in the country, and +you are the men to find it!"</p> + +<p>Thus I think it is plain that Mr. Pemberton was practically the real +exponent of British law and order <span class="pagenum">p.257</span> in that arduous time. We do not +forget what is due on the mainland to Matthew Baillie Begbie, Chief +Justice, who dealt rigidly with offenders committed for trial before +him. His inflexible administration of the law struck terror into the +hearts of evildoers. Still less must we forget the man at the helm +and master of the ship, His Excellency Governor Douglas, who, by +his sagacity, penetration, and godly fear, coupled with his long +experience of personal rule over men, ever knew what to do and when +to do it.</p> + +<p>Thus from Victoria went forth an influence for law and order +throughout the land, which will not soon pass away. Our little city +has ever been noted as being English in character and law-abiding in +conduct. May she remain so. She does well to rejoice and be thankful +for the natural beauties which so richly adorn her site. Let her also +so continue to follow the right, the good, the loving and the true, +that she may for this also be as a city set on a hill whose light +cannot be hid.</p> + +<p>Regarding, as I do, the six hundred islanders with the patriotic +Governor at their head as the real foundation of the things to come +in the second chapter of their history, I have written from memory +such names as my position enabled me to become acquainted with at +that early period, intending to add them to this paper, but space +forbids.</p> + +<p>And now I should earnestly desire to send my Christmas greetings to +the people of Victoria; first to the few dear old friends that remain +of the old Fort days, and next to those who have come later, from all +of whom I have received kindnesses which God alone can repay. May His +blessing rest on all and each one not only of our beloved city, but +on the whole of this our Province of British Columbia, for we are all +one, as the name imports.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.258</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov38">CHAPTER XXXVIII.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">CHRISTMAS REMINISCENCES BY HON. J. S. HELMCKEN.</p> + +<h4 class="sc">Hudson Bay Days.</h4> + +<p>You ask me to give some information as to the observance of Christmas +Day in the early days of the Colony, say fifty-five years ago. I may +say at once that there were no set forms of celebration in those +days, save that the chaplain, Rev. Mr. Staines, held divine service +in the mess-room, a hall that served for baptisms, deaths and +marriages, also balls and other recreation. At the same time Rev. +Father Lamfpet, a missionary Catholic priest, assembled his flock in +a shanty, built chiefly by himself and plastered with clay, which had +wide cracks in it. This edifice stood on Courtney Street, between +Douglas and Government. Of course Christmas Day was a holiday.</p> + +<div class="imgright" id="img48"> +<img width="258" height="437" src="images/vi48.jpg" alt="[Portrait: Dr. Helmcken.]" /> +</div> + +<p>In the early days changes came quickly. In 1852 Captain Langford, +wife and family arrived. They were in some way connected with the +then Governor Blanchard. T. Skinner, Esq., wife and family arrived at +the same time. These were British and cultured people. Langford and +Skinner were agents of the Puget Sound Company, so with them came a +large number of Britishers, to open up and cultivate farms at +Colwood, the latter near the now Naval Hospital at Esquimalt. Captain +Grant and Captain Cooper were here, and soon <span class="pagenum">p.259</span> came the noble, +steadfast laird, Mr. Kenneth McKenzie, wife and family. These brought +their customs with them, so of course Christmas observances. It +will thus be seen that Christmas and other customs came with the +immigrants, and from the planting of that seed, the present Christmas +observances have grown. In Scotland and America the day is much more +observed than formerly; all did as they pleased—shooting, hunting, +fishing and visiting being the chief recreations, and getting as good +a dinner as possible, perhaps practise at the Beacon, a barrel +riddled with bullets, and standing on a long pole. This beacon was a +mark for ships. Another stood near the water to the north. Captain +Sangster used to perambulate here, a telescope in hand, watching for +the annual Hudson’s Bay Company’s ship, the signal being two guns.</p> + +<p>No waits at night, no chimes, no bells, no Christmas carols, no +pianos, in fact no musical instruments of any kind, save the bell of +the Fort. On one occasion a dance and supper were determined on, but +where was the band? Nothing but Mr. Tod and his fiddle existed. Mr. +Tod, a good soul, peace be with him, ever ready to assist, assisted. +Mr. Tod had a peculiarity; when playing he would cast off a shoe, and +kept time by stamping the resounding floor with his stockinged foot. +However, an employee came forth, "I can help you, sirs; give me a +sheet of tin." He got it, and in a short time came back with a tin +whistle, on which he played admirably. This was the band, and +everyone enjoyed the dance and everything else. The band, too, was +the orchestra at a night of private theatricals, in which J. D. +Pemberton and Joseph McKay were the <span class="pagenum">p.260</span> star actors, whilst the +others handed round port, ale, cider, ginger beer, oranges, lemons +and nuts—that is to say they would if they had them.</p> + +<p>There were no public-houses nor public amusements at this time, +turkeys unknown and beef scarce. In fact a rudimentary Christmas +festival of a holiday, not holy-day, type.</p> + +<p>It may be here remarked that sixty years ago Christmas Day was but +little observed in Scotland, and the same may be said of America. In +England, however, where it was and is a statute holiday, Christmas +was universally celebrated. Essentially it was a children’s day and +one of family reunions, and in those days when travelling was +expensive and tedious, this meant more than it does to-day. The +visitors received a joyous welcome, not a sort of empty every-day +one. Plum pudding, roast beef, and mince pies and nuts were the order +of the day, for beverage various kinds of drinks. Holly and mistletoe +and evergreens obtained in nearly every house; in fact it was a +joyous day from morn till night. Games of various kinds were played. +Toys for children, rudimentary toys and picture books, cheap, and +such as the too knowing children of to-day would turn up their little +noses at, and my goodness! the fun of the mistletoe and mulberry +tree! Spreading of course from British Columbia, but in sober earnest +to the immortal Charles Dickens’ works, particularly the Pickwick +Club and the annual "Christmas Stories."</p> + +<p>The holly now, as in England, generally used, is not indigenous, but +grown from introduced seed chiefly. The berried holly is now in great +demand all along the Pacific shores, and American purchasers +are eager to buy it. Curiously, it grows well in Victoria and +neighborhood, <span class="pagenum">p.261</span> but fails as it grows south. Mistletoe, a parasite, +used of old in the mystic rites of the Druids, does not grow here, +but a species thereof comes from the States, which serves its usual +purpose, in spite of all moral reformers and the scientific maxims +of the dangers of bacteria (bacteria of love) incurred in and by +osculation. Who cares about this kind of danger when under the +mistletoe at Christmas—the fun and pleasure of obtaining it or at +"blindman’s buff," and the pretended wish and effort not to be +caught. None of this in Victoria in 1850. How soon after?</p> + +<p>Oh, the merry days when we were young! Turkeys were rare, but Dr. +Trimble had a turkey which he kept on his premises on Broad Street. +Daily he and Mrs. Trimble would visit his treasure, who with his +fantail erect and feathers vibrating and with a gobble-gobble and +proud step would show his pleasure at the meeting, but the doctor and +wife, although admiring and loving the proud and handsome bird, had +murderous thoughts in their "innards," and declared he would be a +splendid bird by Christmas for dinner, so in due course they invited +some half dozen friends to eat the turkey on Christmas Day. A few +days before Christmas, the doctor and wife, on their daily visit, +found the turkey had vanished. Inquiries were made for it, and the +invited friends were assiduous in helping to unravel the mystery, and +concluded in the end that it had been stolen. They condoled and +sympathized with the bereaved, and tried to assuage the grief by +telling Trimble and wife that they would give him a dinner on +Christmas Day instead! The grief-stricken parties accepted the +invitation, as the best thing to be done under the unfortunate +circumstances. So on Christmas <span class="pagenum">p.262</span> Day they assembled very jollily. +The earlier courses were eaten with fizz, etc. Now comes up the +principal dish, which being uncovered displayed a fine cooked turkey. +Trimble was a good-natured fellow, so you may easily foretell what +followed. Who stole the turkey? The echoes of their laughing, +intertwining shadows reply "Who-o-o?"</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.263</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov39">CHAPTER XXXIX.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">MY FIRST CHRISTMAS DINNER IN VICTORIA, 1860.</p> + +<h4 class="sc">By D. W. H.</h4> + +<blockquote><p> +"Ask and it shall be given you; seek and ye shall find; knock and +it shall be opened unto you. For every one that asketh receiveth; +and he that seeketh findeth, and to him that knocketh it shall be +opened."—Matt. 7:7, 8.</p></blockquote> + +<p>On the 22nd day of December, 1860, nearly fifty-three years ago, I +sat in the editorial room of the <i>Colonist</i> office on Wharf +Street, concocting a leading article. Mr. Amor De Cosmos, the able +editor and owner, had contracted a severe cold and was confined to +his room at Wilcox’s Royal Hotel, so the entire work of writing up +the paper for that issue devolved upon me. The office was a rude, +one-story affair of wood. It had been erected for a merchant early in +1858, and when he failed or went away the building fell into Mr. De +Cosmos’ hands. On the 11th December, 1858, Mr. De Cosmos established +the <i>Colonist</i>, which has ever since filled a prominent and +honorable position in colonial journalism. Our office, as I have +remarked, was a rude affair. The accompanying picture will convey a +better idea of its appearance than anything I might write. The +editorial room was a small space partitioned off from the composing +room, which contained <span class="pagenum">p.264</span> also the little hand-press on which the +paper was printed. A person who might wish to see the editor was +forced to pick his way through a line of stands and cases at which +stood the coatless printers who set the type and prepared the forms +for the press.</p> + +<div class="imgright" id="img49"> +<img width="254" height="431" src="images/vi49.jpg" alt="[Portrait: Amor de Cosmos.]" /> +</div> + +<p>The day was chill and raw. A heavy wind from the south-west stirred +the waters of the harbor and hurling itself with fury against the +front of the building made the timbers crack and groan as if in +paroxysms of pain. A driving rain fell in sheets on the roof and +drops of water which leaked through the shingles fell on the +editorial table, swelled into little rivulets, and, leaping to the +floor, chased each other over the room, making existence therein +uncomfortably damp. As I wrote away in spite of these obstacles I was +made aware by a shadow that fell across my table of the presence of +someone in the doorway. I raised my eyes and there stood a female—a +rare object in those days, when women and children were as scarce as +hen’s teeth, and were hardly ever met upon the streets, much less in +an editorial sanctum. I rose to my feet at once, and removing my hat +awaited results. In the brief space of time that elapsed before the +lady spoke I took her all in. She was a woman of scarcely forty, I +thought; of medium height, a brunette, with large coal-black eyes, a +pretty mouth—a perfect Cupid’s bow—and olive-hued cheeks. She was +richly dressed in bright colors with heavy broad stripes and +space-encircling hoops after the fashion of the day. When she spoke +it was in a rich, well-rounded tone—not with the nasal drawl which +we hear so much when across the line, and which some Victoria +school-girls and boys seem to delight in imitating in spite of the +efforts of their teachers. Taken all in all I sized the lady up as a +very presentable person.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.265</p> + +<p>Having explained to her, in response to an inquiry, that the editor +was ill, she said that she would call again and went away after +leaving her card. Two days later, on the 24th of December, the lady +came again.</p> + +<p>"Is the editor still ill?" she asked.</p> + +<p>"Yes; but he will be here in the course of a day or two."</p> + +<p>"Ah! well, that is too bad," she said. "My business is of importance +and cannot bear delay. But I am told that you will do as well."</p> + +<p>I assured the lady that I should be glad to assist her in any way. +Thanking me, she began:</p> + +<p>"My name is Madame Fabre; my husband, who was French, is dead—died +in California. I am a Russian. In Russia I am a princess. (She paused +as if to watch the impression her announcement had made.) Here I am a +mere nobody—only Madame Fabre. I married my husband in France. We +came to California. We had much money and my husband went into quartz +mining at Grass Valley. He did not understand the business at all. We +lost everything. Then he died (and she drew a lace handkerchief from +her reticule, and pressing it to her eyes sighed deeply). Alas! Yes, +Emil passed from me and is now, I trust, in heaven. He left me a +mountain of debts and one son, Bertrand, a good child, as good as +gold, very thoughtful and obedient. May I call him in? He awaits your +permission without."</p> + +<p>I replied, "Certainly," and stepping to the door she called, +"Bertrand! Bertrand! my child, come here, and speak to the +gentleman."</p> + +<p>I expected to see a boy of five or six years, wearing curls, in short +trousers, a beaded jacket and fancy cap, whom I would take on my +knee, toy with his curls, ask <span class="pagenum">p.266</span> his name and age and give him a +"bit" with which to stuff his youthful stomach with indigestible +sweetmeats. Judge my surprise when, preceded by the noise of a heavy +tread, a huge youth of about seventeen, bigger and taller than +myself, and smoking a cigar, appeared at the opening, and in a deep, +gruff voice that a sea captain or a militia commander would have +envied, asked:</p> + +<p>"Did you call, mamma?"</p> + +<p>"Yes, my dear child," she sweetly responded; "I wish to introduce you +to this gentleman."</p> + +<p>The "child" removed his hat, and I noticed that his hair was cut +close to the scalp. Having been duly introduced at my request he sat +down in my chair while I took a seat on the edge of the editorial +table, which was very rickety and would scarcely bear my weight at +the present day.</p> + +<p>The parent gazed at her son fondly for a moment and then proceeded:</p> + +<p>"Bertrand’s fortune was swallowed up in the quartz wreck; but he is +very sweet and very patient, and never complains. Poor lad! It was +hard upon him, but he forgives all—do you not, dear?"</p> + +<p>"Yes," rumbled the "child" from the pit of his stomach; but the +expression that flitted across his visage made me think that he would +rather have said "No," had he dared.</p> + +<p>"That being the case I will now explain the object of my visit. As I +have said, we have lost everything—that is to say, our income is so +greatly reduced that it is now a matter of not more than $1,000 a +month. Upon that meagre sum my dear boy and I contrive to get along +by practising the strictest economy consistent with our position in +life. Naturally we wish to do <span class="pagenum">p.267</span> better, and then go back to Russia +and live with the nobility. Do we not, Bertrand?"</p> + +<p>"Yes," rumbled the "child" from his stomach again, as he lighted a +fresh cigar.</p> + +<p>"Well, now, Mr. H.," the lady went on, "I want an adviser. I ask +Pierre Manciot at the French Hotel, and he tells me to see his +partner, John Sere; and Mr. Sere tells me to go to the editor of the +<i>Colonist</i>. I come here. The editor is ill. I go back to Mr. +Sere and he says, see D. W. H.; he will set you all right. So I come +to you to tell you what I want."</p> + +<p>She paused for a moment to take a newspaper from her reticule and +then continued:</p> + +<p>"After my husband died and left the debts and this precious child +(the "child" gazed abstractedly at the ceiling while he blew rings of +smoke from his mouth) we made a grand discovery. Our foreman, working +in the mine, strikes rich quartz, covers it up again, and tells no +one but me. All the shareholders have gone—what you call ‘busted,’ I +believe? We get hold of many shares cheap, and now I come here to get +the rest. An Englishman owns enough shares to give him control—I +mean that out of two hundred thousand shares I have got ninety-five +thousand, and the rest this Englishman holds. We have traced him +through Oregon to this place, and we lose all sign of him here." (Up +to this moment I had not been particularly interested in the +narration.) She paused, and laying a neatly-gloved hand on my arm +proceeded:</p> + +<p>"You are a man of affairs."</p> + +<p>I modestly intimated that I was nothing of the kind, only a reporter.</p> + +<p>"Ah! yes. You cannot deceive me. I see it in your eye, your face, +your movements. You are a man of <span class="pagenum">p.268</span> large experience and keen +judgment. Your conversation is charming."</p> + +<p>As she had spoken for ten minutes without giving me an opportunity to +say a word, I could not quite understand how she arrived at an +estimate of my conversational powers. However, I felt flattered, but +said nothing.</p> + +<p>Pressing my arm with her hand, which gave me a warm feeling in the +neighborhood of my heart, she went on:</p> + +<p>"I come to you as a man of the world. (I made a gesture of dissent, +but it was very feeble, for I was already caught in the web.) I rely +upon you. I ask you to help me. Bertrand—poor, dear Bertie—has no +head for business—he is too young, too confiding—too—too—what you +English people call simple—no, too good—too noble—he takes after +my family—to know anything about such affairs—so I come to you."</p> + +<p>Was it possible that because I was considered unredeemably bad I was +selected for this woman’s purpose? As I mused, half disposed to get +angry, I raised my head and my eyes encountered the burning orbs of +the Madame, gazing full into mine. They seemed to bore like gimlets +into my very soul. A thrill ran through me like the shock from an +electric battery, and in an instant I seemed bound hand and foot to +the fortunes of this strange woman. I felt myself being dragged along +as the Roman Emperors were wont to draw their captives through the +streets of their capital. I fluttered for a few seconds like a bird +in the fowler’s net and then I gave up. The contest was too unequal. +God help me! The eyes had conquered and I lay panting at the feet, as +it were, of the conqueror. I have only a hazy recollection of what +passed between us after <span class="pagenum">p.269</span> that; but I call to mind that she asked +me to insert as an advertisement a paragraph from a Grass Valley +newspaper to the effect that the mine (the name of which I forget) +was a failure and that shares could be bought for two cents. +When she took her leave I promised to call upon her at the hotel. +When the "child" extended a cold, clammy hand in farewell I felt like +giving him a kick—he looked so grim and ugly and patronizing. I +gazed into his eyes sternly and read there deceit, hypocrisy and +moral degeneration. How I hated him!</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>The pair had been gone several minutes before I recovered my mental +balance and awoke to a realization of the fact that I was a young +fool who had sold himself (perhaps to the devil) for a few empty +compliments and a peep into the deep well of an artful woman’s +blazing eyes. I was inwardly cursing my stupidity while pacing up and +down the floor of the "den" when I heard a timid knock at the door. +In response to my invitation to "come in" a young lady entered. She +was pretty and about twenty years of age, fair, with dark blue eyes +and light brown hair. A blush suffused her face as she asked for the +editor. I returned the usual answer.</p> + +<p>"Perhaps you will do for my purpose," she said timidly. "I have here +a piece of poetry."</p> + +<p>I gasped as I thought, "It’s an ode on winter. Oh, Lord!"</p> + +<p>"A piece of poetry," she continued, "on Britain’s Queen. If you will +read it and find it worthy a place in your paper I shall be glad to +write more. If it is worth paying for I shall be glad to get +anything."</p> + +<p>Her hand trembled as she produced the paper.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.270</p> + +<p>I thanked her and telling her that I would look it over she withdrew. +I could not help contrasting the first with the last visitor. The one +had attracted me by her artful and flattering tongue, the skilful use +of her beautiful eyes and the pressure of her hand on my coat sleeve; +the other by the modesty of her demeanor. The timid shyness with +which she presented her poem had caught my fancy. I looked at the +piece. It was poor, not but what the sentiment was there and the +ideas were good, but they were not well put. As prose it would have +been acceptable, but as verse it was impossible and was not worth +anything.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>The next was Christmas Day. It was my first Christmas in Victoria. +Business was suspended. All the stores were closed. At that time in +front of every business house there were wooden verandahs or sheds +that extended from the fronts of the buildings to the outer edges of +the sidewalks. One might walk along any of the down-town streets and +be under cover all the way. They were ugly, unsightly constructions +and I waged constant warfare against them until I joined the +aldermanic board and secured the passage of an ordinance that +compelled their removal. Along these verandahs on this particular +Christmas morning evergreen boughs were placed and the little town +really presented a very pretty and sylvan appearance. After church I +went to the office and from the office to the Hotel de France for +luncheon. The only other guest in the room was a tall, florid-faced +young man somewhat older than myself. He occupied a table on the +opposite side of the room. When I gave my order M. Sere remarked, +"All the regular boarders but you have gone to luncheon and dinner +with their friends. Why not you?"</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.271</p> + +<p>"Why," I replied, with a quaver in my voice, "the only families that +I know are dining with friends of their own, whom I do not know. I +feel more homesick to-day than ever before in my life and the idea of +eating my Christmas dinner alone fills me with melancholy thoughts."</p> + +<p>The man on the other side of the room must have overheard what I +said, for he ejaculated:</p> + +<p>"There’s two of a kind. I’m in a similar fix. I have no friends +here—at least with whom I can dine. Suppose we double up?"</p> + +<p>"What’s that?" I asked.</p> + +<p>"Why, let us eat our Christmas dinner together and have a good time. +Here’s my card and here’s a letter of credit on Mr. Pendergast, Wells +Fargo’s agent, to show that I am not without visible means of +support."</p> + +<p>The card read, "Mr. George Barclay, Grass Valley."</p> + +<p>"Why," I said, "you are from Grass Valley. How strange. I saw two +people yesterday—a lady and her ‘child’—who claimed to have come +from Grass Valley."</p> + +<p>"Indeed," he asked; "what are they like?"</p> + +<p>"The mother says she is a Russian princess. She calls herself Mme. +Fabre and says she is a widow. She is very handsome and intelligent +and"—I added with a shudder—"has the loveliest eyes—they bored me +through and through."</p> + +<p>My new friend faintly smiled and said, "I know them. By and bye, when +we get better acquainted, I shall tell you all about them. Meantime, +be on your guard."</p> + +<p>After luncheon we walked along Government to Yates Street and then to +the <i>Colonist</i> shack. And as I placed the key in the lock I saw +the young lady who had submitted the poetry walking rapidly towards +us. My <span class="pagenum">p.272</span> companion flushed slightly and raising his hat, extended +his hand, which the lady accepted with hesitation. They exchanged +some words and then the lady addressing me asked, "Was my poem +acceptable?"</p> + +<p>"To tell you the truth, Miss—Miss—"</p> + +<p>"Forbes," she interjected.</p> + +<p>"I have not had time to read it carefully." (As a matter of fact I +had not bestowed a second thought upon the poem, but was ashamed to +acknowledge it.)</p> + +<p>"When—oh! when can you decide?" she asked with much earnestness.</p> + +<p>"To-morrow, I think"—for I fully intended to decline it.</p> + +<p>She seemed deeply disappointed. Her lip quivered as she held down her +head and her form trembled with agitation. I could not understand her +emotion, but, of course, said nothing to show that I observed it.</p> + +<p>"Could you not give me an answer to-day—this afternoon?" the girl +urged.</p> + +<p>"Yes," I said, "as you seem so very anxious, if you will give me your +address I shall take or send an answer before four o’clock. Where do +you reside?"</p> + +<p>"Do you know Forshay’s cottages? They are a long way up Yates Street. +We occupy No. 4."</p> + +<p>Forshay’s cottages were a collection of little cabins that had been +erected on a lot at the corner of Cook and Yates Streets. They have +long since disappeared. They were of one story and each cottage +contained three rooms—a kitchen and two other rooms. I could +scarcely imagine a refined person such as the lady before me +occupying those miserable quarters; but then, you know, necessity +knows no law.</p> + +<p>The girl thanked me and Barclay accompanied her to the corner of +Yates Street. He seemed to be trying <span class="pagenum">p.273</span> to induce her to do +something she did not approve of, for she shook her head with an air +of determination and resolve and hurried away.</p> + +<p>Barclay came back to the office and said: "I am English myself, but +the silliest creature in the world is an Englishman who, having once +been well off, finds himself stranded. His pride will not allow him +to accept favors. I knew that girl’s father and mother in Grass +Valley. The old gentleman lost a fortune at quartz mining. His +partner, a Mr. Maloney, a Dublin man and graduate of Trinity College, +having sunk his own and his wife’s money in the mine, poisoned his +wife, three children and himself with strychnine three years ago. By +the way, I met a Grass Valley man this morning. His name is Robert +Homfray, a civil engineer. He tells me he is located here +permanently. He and his brother lost a great deal of money in the +Grass Valley mines, and we talked over the Maloney tragedy, with the +circumstances of which he was familiar, but the strangest part of the +story is that three months ago the property was reopened and the very +first shot that was fired in the tunnel laid bare a rich vein. Had +Maloney fired one more charge he would have been rich. As it was he +died a murderer and a suicide. Poor fellow! In a day or two I will +tell you more. But let us return to the poetry. What will you do with +it?"</p> + +<p>"I fear I shall have to reject it."</p> + +<p>"No, no," he cried. "Accept it! This morning I went to the home of +the family, which consists of Mr. Forbes, who is crippled with +rheumatism, his excellent wife, the young lady from whom we have just +parted and a little boy of seven. They are in actual want. I offered +to lend them money to buy common necessaries <span class="pagenum">p.274</span> and Forbes rejected +the offer in language that was insulting. Go immediately to the +cottage. Tell the girl that you have accepted the poem and give her +this (handing me a twenty-dollar gold piece) as the appraised value +of her production. Then return to the Hotel de France and await +developments."</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>I repaired to the cottages. The road was long and muddy. There were +neither sidewalks nor streets and it was a difficult matter to +navigate the sea of mud that lay between Wharf and Cook Streets. The +young lady answered my knock. She almost fainted when I told her the +poem had been accepted and that the fee was twenty dollars. I placed +the coin in her hand.</p> + +<p>"Mamma! Papa!" she cried, and running inside the house I heard her +say, "My poem has been accepted and the gentleman from the +<i>Colonist</i> office has brought me twenty dollars."</p> + +<p>"Thank God!" I heard a woman’s voice exclaim. "I never lost faith, +for what does Christ say, Ellen, ‘Ask and it shall be given you, seek +and ye shall find; knock, and it shall be opened.’ On this holy +day—our Saviour’s birthday—we have sought and we have found."</p> + +<p>This was followed by a sound as of someone crying, and then the girl +flew back to the door.</p> + +<p>"Oh! sir," she said, "I thank you from the bottom of my heart for +your goodness."</p> + +<p>"Not at all," I lied. "You have earned it and you owe me no thanks. I +shall be glad to receive and pay for any other contributions you may +send." I did not add, though, that they would not be published, +although they would be paid for.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.275</p> + +<p>A little boy with a troubled face and a pinched look now approached +the front door. He was neatly but poorly dressed.</p> + +<p>"Oh! Nellie, what is the matter?" he asked anxiously.</p> + +<p>"Johnnie," answered Nellie. "I have earned twenty dollars, and we +shall have a Christmas dinner, and you shall have a drum, too." As +she said this she caught the little fellow in her arms and kissed him +and pressed his wan cheek against her own.</p> + +<p>"Shall we have a turkey, Nellie?" he asked.</p> + +<p>"Yes, dear," she said.</p> + +<p>"And a plum pudding, too, with nice sauce that burns when you put a +match to it, and shall I have two helpings?" he asked.</p> + +<p>"Yes, and you shall set fire to the sauce and have two helpings, +Johnnie."</p> + +<p>"Won’t that be nice," he exclaimed gleefully. "But, Nellie, will papa +get medicine to make him well again?"</p> + +<p>"Yes, Johnnie."</p> + +<p>"And mamma—will she get back all the pretty things she sent away to +pay the rent with?"</p> + +<p>"Hush, Johnnie," said the girl with an apologetic look at me.</p> + +<p>"And you, Nellie, will you get back your warm cloak that the man with +a long nose took away?"</p> + +<p>"Hush, dear," she said. "Go inside now; I wish to speak to this +gentleman." She closed the front door and asked me, all the stores +being closed, how she would be able to get the materials for the +dinner and to redeem her promise to Johnnie.</p> + +<p>"Easily enough," said I. "Order it at the Hotel de France. Shall I +take down the order?"</p> + +<p>"If you will be so kind," she said. "Please order what you think is +necessary."</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.276</p> + +<p>"And I—I have a favor to ask of you."</p> + +<p>"What is it?" she inquired eagerly.</p> + +<p>"That you will permit me to eat my Christmas dinner with you and the +family. I am a waif and stray, alone in the world. I am almost a +stranger here. The few acquaintances I have made are dining out and I +am at the hotel with Mr. Barclay, whom you know and, I hope, esteem."</p> + +<p>"Well," she said, "come by all means."</p> + +<p>"And may I bring Mr. Barclay with me? He is very lonely and very +miserable. Just think, that on a day like this he has nowhere to go +but to an hotel."</p> + +<p>She considered a moment before replying; then she said, "No, do not +bring him—let him come in while we are at dinner, as if by +accident."</p> + +<p>I hastened to the Hotel de France and Sere and Manciot soon had a big +hamper packed with an abundance of Christmas cheer and on its way +upon the back of an Indian to the Forbes house.</p> + +<p>I followed and received a warm welcome from the father and mother, +who were superior people and gave every evidence of having seen +better days. The interior was scrupulously clean, but there was only +one chair. A small kitchen stove at which the sick man sat was the +only means of warmth. There were no carpets and, if I was not +mistaken, the bed coverings were scant. The evidence of extreme +poverty was everywhere manifest. I never felt meaner in my life, as I +accepted the blessings that belonged to the other man. Mr. Forbes, +who was too ill to sit at the table, reclined on a rude lounge near +the kitchen stove. Just as dinner was being served there came a knock +at the door. It was opened and there stood Barclay.</p> + +<p>"I have come," he said, "to ask you to take me in. <span class="pagenum">p.277</span> I cannot eat +my dinner alone at the hotel. You have taken my only acquaintance +(pointing to me) from me, and if Mr. Forbes will forgive my +indiscretion of this morning I shall be thankful."</p> + +<p>"That I will," cried the old gentleman from the kitchen. "Come in and +let us shake hands and forget our differences."</p> + +<p>So Barclay entered and we ate our Christmas dinner in one of the +bedrooms. It was laid on the kitchen table, upon which a tablecloth, +sent by the thoughtful hosts at the hotel, was spread. There were +napkins, a big turkey and claret and champagne, and a real, live, +polite little Frenchman to carve and wait. Barclay and I sat on the +bed. Mrs. Forbes had the only chair. Johnnie and his sister occupied +the hamper. Before eating Mrs. Forbes said grace, in which she again +quoted the passage from Scripture with which I began this narration. +Oh! for a catchup meal it was the jolliest I ever sat down to, and I +enjoyed it, as did all the rest. Little Johnnie got two helpings of +turkey and two helpings of pudding and then he was allowed to sip a +little champagne when the toasts to the Queen and the father and +mother and the young and rising poetess of the family were offered. +Then Johnnie was toasted and put to bed in Nellie’s room. Next it +came my turn to say a few words in response to a sentiment which the +old gentleman spoke through the open door from his position in the +kitchen, and my response abounded in falsehoods about the budding +genius of the daughter of the household. Then I called Barclay to his +feet, and he praised me until I felt like getting up and relieving my +soul of its weight of guilt, but I didn’t, for had I done so the +whole affair would have been spoiled.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.278</p> + +<p>Barclay and I reached our quarters at the Hotel de France about +midnight. We were a pair of thoroughly happy mortals, for had we not, +after all, "dined out," and had we not had a royal good time on +Christmas Day, 1860?</p> + +<p>The morrow was Boxing Day and none of the offices were opened. I saw +nothing of the Princess; but I observed Bertie, the sweet "child," as +he paid frequent visits to the bar and filled himself to the throttle +with brandy and water and rum and gin and bought and paid for and +smoked the best cigars at two bits each. As I gazed upon him the +desire to give him a kicking grew stronger.</p> + +<p>By appointment Barclay and I met in a private room at the hotel, +where he unfolded his plans.</p> + +<p>"You must have seen," he began, "that Miss Forbes and I are warm +friends. Our friendship began six months ago. I proposed to her and +was accepted subject to the approval of the father. He refused to +give his consent because, having lost his money, he could not give +his daughter a dowry. It was in vain I urged that I had sufficient +for both. He would listen to nothing that involved an acceptance of +assistance from me, and he left for Vancouver Island to try his +fortunes here. He fell ill and they have sold or pawned everything of +value. The girl was not permitted to bid me good-bye when they left +Grass Valley. After their departure the discovery of which I have +informed you was made in the Maloney tunnel and as Mr. Forbes has +held on to a control of the stock in spite of his adversities, he is +now a rich man. I want to marry the girl. As I told you, I proposed +when I believed them to be ruined. It is now my duty to acquaint the +family with their good fortune and renew my suit. I <span class="pagenum">p.279</span> think I ought +to do it to-day. Surely he will not repel me now when I take that +news to him, as he did on Christmas morning when I tendered him a +loan."</p> + +<p>I told him I thought he should impart the good news at once and stand +the consequences. He left me for that purpose. As I walked into the +dining-room, I saw the dear "child" Bertrand leaning over the bar +quaffing a glass of absinthe. When he saw me he gulped down the drink +and said:</p> + +<p>"Mamma would like to speak to you—she thought you would have +called."</p> + +<p>I recalled the adventure with the eyes and hesitated. Then I decided +to go to room 12 on the second flat and see the thing out. A knock on +the door was responded to by a sweet "Come in." Mme. Fabre was seated +in an easy chair before a cheerful coal fire.</p> + +<p>She arose at once and extended a plump and white hand. As we seated +ourselves she flashed those burning eyes upon me and said:</p> + +<p>"I am so glad you have come! I do want your advice about my mining +venture. In the first place I may tell you that I have found the man +who owns the shares. He is here in Victoria with his family. He is +desperately poor. A hundred dollars if offered would be a great +temptation. I would give more—five hundred if necessary."</p> + +<p>"The property you told me of the other day is valuable, is it not?" I +asked.</p> + +<p>"Yes—that is to say, we think it is. You know that mining is the +most uncertain of all ventures. You may imagine you are rich one day +and the next you find yourself broke. It was so with my husband. He +came home one day and said, ‘We are rich’; and the next he said, ‘We +are poor.’ This Maloney mine looks well, but <span class="pagenum">p.280</span> who can be sure? +When I came here I thought that if I found the man with the shares I +could get them for a song. I may yet, but my dear child tells me that +he has seen here a man from Grass Valley named Barclay who is a +friend of that shareholder, and," she added, bitterly, "perhaps he +has got ahead of me. I must see the man at once and make him an +offer. What do you think?"</p> + +<p>"I think you might as well save yourself further trouble. By this +time the shareholder has been apprised of his good fortune."</p> + +<p>"What!" she exclaimed, springing to her feet and transfixing me with +her eyes. "Am I, then, too late?"</p> + +<p>"Yes," I said, "you are too late. Forbes—that is the man’s +name—knows of his good fortune and I do not believe he would sell +now at any price."</p> + +<p>The woman gazed at me with the concentrated hate of a thousand +furies. Her great eyes no longer bore an expression of pleading +tenderness—they seemed to glint and expand and to shoot fierce +flames from their depths. They no longer charmed, they terrified me! +How I wished I had left the door open.</p> + +<p>"Ah!" she screamed. "I see it all. I have been betrayed—sold out. +You have broken my confidence."</p> + +<p>"I have done nothing of the kind. I have never repeated to a soul +what you told me."</p> + +<p>"Then who could have done it?" she exclaimed, bursting into a fit of +hysterical tears. "I have come all this way to secure the property +and now find that I am too late. Shame! shame!"</p> + +<p>"I will tell you. Barclay is really here. He knew of the strike as +soon as you did. He is in love with Miss Forbes and followed the +family here to tell them the good news. He is with the man at this +moment."</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.281</p> + +<p>"Curse him!" she cried through her set teeth.</p> + +<p>I left the woman plunged in a state of deep despair. I told her son +that he should go upstairs and attend to his mother, and proceeded to +the Forbes cottage. There I found the family in a state of great +excitement, for Barclay had told them all and already they were +arranging plans for returning to California and taking steps to +reopen the property.</p> + +<p>Miss Forbes received me with great cordiality and the mother +announced that the girl and Barclay were engaged to be married, the +father having given his consent at once. The fond mother added that +she regretted very much that her daughter would have to abandon her +literary career which had begun so auspiciously through my discovery +of her latent talent.</p> + +<p>I looked at Barclay before I replied. His face was as blank as a +piece of white paper. His eyes, however, danced in his head as if he +enjoyed my predicament.</p> + +<p>"Yes," I finally said, "Mr. Barclay has much to be answerable for. I +shall lose a valued contributor. Perhaps," I ventured, "she will +still continue to write from California, for she possesses poetical +talent of a high order."</p> + +<p>"I shall gladly do so," cried the young lady, "and without pay, too. +I shall never forget your goodness."</p> + +<p>I heard a low chuckling sound behind me. It was Barclay swallowing a +laugh.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>They went away in the course of a few days and we corresponded for a +long time; but Mrs. Barclay never fulfilled her promise to cultivate +the muse; nor in her several letters did she refer to her poetical +gift. Perhaps her husband told her of the pious fraud we practised +upon her on Christmas Day, 1860. But whether <span class="pagenum">p.282</span> he did so or not, +I have taken the liberty, fifty-three years after the event, of +exposing the part I took in the deception and craving forgiveness for +my manifold sins and wickednesses on that occasion.</p> + +<p>What became of the Russian princess with the pretty manners, the +white hands and the enchanting eyes and the sweet "child" Bertie? +They were back at Grass Valley almost as soon as Forbes and Barclay +got there, and from my correspondence I learned that they shared in +the prosperity of the Maloney claim, and that Mme. Fabre and her son +returned to Russia to live among her noble kin.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.283</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov40">CHAPTER XL.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">EVOLUTION OF THE SONGHEES.</p> + +<p>I often pass through the Songhees Reserve, and the recent controversy +respecting the reserve, and the dilapidated state of the former homes +of the Indians, induce me to recall the reserve as I knew it first, +when it was swarming with "flatheads," men, women and children. The +term "flathead" was applied to the Songhees on account of the shape +of his head, which was pressed flat with a piece of board strapped to +his forehead while he was in a state of infancy.</p> + +<p>In this state of bondage, if I may so term it, the "tenass man" +(infant) passed his infancy. He was fed, took his sleep, and carried +on his mother’s back by a strap passing around his mother’s forehead; +thus he got his fresh air and exercise.</p> + +<p>The mother, in fact all the females, chewed gum. I have always +credited our American cousins with having originated this beastly +practice, but now I suppose the credit for the discovery belongs to +the Songhees, who must have taught our friends, and then gave it up +themselves. Groups of men may have been seen carving miniature canoes +with carved Indians paddling in them, also totem poles and bows and +arrows, while three or four Indians would be at work shaping a +full-grown canoe which might possibly hold half a dozen Indians. It +was very interesting watching them at work and many an hour I have +spent watching them when a boy. <span class="pagenum">p.284</span> The women, while their "papooses" +were playing about, worked also. Many made fancy articles out of +tanned deer hide, embroidered with pearl buttons and beads, moccasins +mostly, and for which there was a good sale. They were worn for +slippers. I have bought many pairs at fifty cents a pair. The +blankets they wore were decorated with rows of pearl beads down the +front, red blankets being the favorite color, as they showed off the +pearl beads to advantage.</p> + +<p>All these articles, as well as many others, such as game, fish and +potatoes and fruits, wild, were brought to our doors, and at prices +much below what such things could be bought now—grouse, 35c. to 50c. +a pair; wild ducks, the same; venison, from 5c. to 8c. a pound by the +quarter; potatoes, about 1¼c. pound; salmon, 10c. each; wild +strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, and bilberries, at about 5c. +pound. Even "gumstick" for lighting fires was brought to the door at +10c. a bundle. Their cries as they passed the doors might be heard at +all hours. "Ah! Culla Culla" (grouse and ducks), "Mowich" (venison), +"Oolally" (berries), "Sooke Oysters," "Salmon" and "Cowichan +potatoes." These oysters were small but very nice, and for +twenty-five cents you would get a bucketful; also the same quantity +of clams. "Ick quarter" or "King George" quarter (twenty-five cents), +bought almost anything.</p> + +<p>All these cheap foods were a godsend to early residents, and at the +same time were fresh and wholesome. The men and the young women went +out washing by the day, from seven to six o’clock, at fifty cents.</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img50"> +<img width="389" height="288" src="images/vi50.jpg" alt="[Portrait: Songhees Reserve.]" /> +</div> + +<p>The one drawback to them was their dishonesty. Small articles of +clothing, towels and handkerchiefs were easily hidden under their +clothing, so that a close watch had to be kept, and if suspected, +they were <span class="pagenum">p.285</span> searched. The chief of the Songhees tribe was +"King Freezey." He might have been seen parading about town in a +cast-off naval officer’s uniform with cap to match, and he was very +proud, as befitted such an august personage. When asked his name, +("ict micaa name") he would reply "Nica name, King Freezey, nica hyas +tyee." ("My name is King Freezey; I am a great man.") This king of +Songhees, after imbibing too freely of the ardent, was drowned by the +capsizing of a canoe in the harbor, and so ended the life of a +well-known personage.</p> + +<p>That he left descendants is evident, as I see their names amongst +those who got $10,000 each from the sale of the reserve. Compare +these descendants with their grandparents. The former’s native +ignorance and simplicity, when their wants were simple and few, with +their grandchildren of to-day, who must have everything their brother +whites have, to modern houses and furniture, buggies, sewing +machines, musical instruments, etc., and not forgetting a bank +account, and last, but not least, post office boxes, and one may well +wonder at the "evolution of the Songhees." More might be said, but +for the present this must suffice.</p> + +<h4 class="sc">Indian Burying Grounds.</h4> + +<p>Islands were favorite burying grounds among the Indians, probably +from the protection the surrounding water furnished against the +incursions of animals, and coffin islands may be found at different +points around the coast. In Victoria harbor and the Arm both Coffin +Island and Deadman’s Island were used for this purpose within the +memory of such old-time residents as Mr. R. T. Williams and Mr. Edgar +Fawcett. Mr. Williams, <span class="pagenum">p.286</span> whose memory goes back to the fifties, +when he went to school from a shack on Yates Street opposite the site +of the present King Edward Hotel, believes Colville Island may also +have been used for this purpose as well, but distinctly remembers the +trees and scrub on Deadman’s Island and the fire on it described in +the following account, which is kindly furnished by Mr. Fawcett. Mr. +Fawcett writes:</p> + +<p>"Like the Egyptians of old, the Indians of this country had +professional mourners, that is, they acted as they did in Bible days. +The mourners, usually friends or members of the same tribe, assembled +as soon as the death was announced, and either inside or outside the +house they (mostly women, and old women at that) kept up a monotonous +howl for hours, others taking their places when they got tired. In +the early sixties an execution of four young Indians took place on +Bastion Square for a murder committed on the West Coast. All day and +night before the execution took place the women of the tribe squatted +on the ground in front of the jail, keeping up the monotonous howl or +chant, even up to the time the hangman completed his task. After +hanging the prescribed time, the murderers were cut down and handed +to their friends, who took them away in their canoes for burial. In +the earliest days, I don’t think they used the regular coffin; the +common practice was to use boxes, and especially trunks. Of course +for a man or woman a trunk would be a problem to an undertaker, but +the Indian solved the problem easily, as they doubled the body up and +made it fit the trunk. For larger bodies a box was made of plank, but +I do not remember seeing one made the regulation length of six feet, +even for an adult, as they always doubled the knees under. A popular <span class="pagenum">p.287</span> +coffin for small people was one of Sam Nesbitt’s cracker boxes. He +was a well-known manufacturer of soda crackers and pilot bread, whose +place of business will be remembered by many old-timers at the corner +of Yates and Broad Streets.</p> + +<p>"The Indians rarely dug graves for their dead, but hoisted them up in +trees, tying them to the branches, or merely laid them on the ground, +and piled them up on top of one another. In time they fell into the +customs of their white brothers, and got coffins made by the +undertaker, and many a time I have seen Indians carrying coffins +along Government Street, down to the foot of Johnson, for their +reserve."—E. F.</p> + +<p>In 1861 Mr. Fawcett with four companions, all school-boys at the +time, were bathing on Deadman’s Island, and had lit a fire to warm +themselves. Broken coffins were lying about, and piles of box coffins +and trunks; these were set fire to, and the boys promptly made off to +escape the wrath of the Indians, who, in those days, were numbered by +hundreds. They made good their escape, and the whole island was swept +by the flames—trees, scrub and coffins being burnt up. Since that +time the island has remained in its present condition.</p> + +<p>The Indians on the Songhees Reserve, also, Mr. Fawcett says, buried +at two points on the reserve, but when the smallpox worked such havoc +among them, the authorities insisted on the bodies being buried in +soil, and when the removal of the Indians was accomplished a special +amount was allotted to provide for the removal of the bodies +elsewhere.—<em class="sc">Editor.</em></p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.288</p> + + + + +<h3 id="rov41">CHAPTER XLI.</h3> + +<p class="chapname">VICTORIA THE NEW AND THE OLD.</p> + +<p>I have been asked to tell of some of the changes that have taken +place since Victoria, the fairest city of the West, commenced her +career, viz., in 1858. I have produced several photos that explain a +good deal without my help, but they may require explanation. As my +endeavor shall be to give our visiting friends of the Methodist +Church an insight into some of the changes in fifty years, I shall in +the small space of time allowed me confine myself to events connected +with the early history of the Methodist Church in Victoria, as I know +them. Although not a member of their body I have claimed many of the +founders of the church as my most intimate friends. There were Thomas +Trounce and Mrs. Trounce, Edwin Donald and Mrs. Donald, Sheriff +McMillan and Mrs. McMillan, Jonathan Bullen and Mrs. Bullen and +Father McKay (as he was called by his friends in the church), and +Mrs. J. W. Williams and Mrs. Lawrance Goodacre.</p> + +<p>Of the pioneer clergy I well remember Dr. Robson, Dr. Ephraim Evans, +Rev. Mr. Pollard and Rev. Mr. Derrick. Of these I best remember Dr. +Evans, as having been here so many years with his wife, daughter and +son. It will be remembered by old timers the sad story of his son’s +death by drowning which I will in a few words relate. He was very +fond of gunning, and one afternoon <span class="pagenum">p.289</span> in December he went off with +his gun to shoot duck from the beach off Beacon Hill, which was the +common practice in those days. Having shot one or two and not being +able to get them any other way, he stripped off his clothes and swam +out after them. This was a very bold thing to do, as the water is so +cold there, and especially in December. It is supposed he got the +cramps or got caught in the seaweeds where the ducks were shot from, +and so was drowned. Not coming home at his usual time, search was +made, and having been seen going to Beacon Hill, it was there the +searchers found his clothes and gun on the beach that evening. The +poor father seemed heart-broken, for he would not leave the spot, but +walked up and down all night calling "Edwin! Edwin, my son!" In the +morning they recovered the body under the seaweed. Great sympathy was +felt for the parents, and I well remember the funeral on a snowy day, +and the unusual number of friends who attended the funeral in the +old Quadra Street Cemetery. The granite monument is still to be +seen there.</p> + +<div class="imgcenter" id="img51"> +<img width="520" height="265" src="images/vi51.jpg" alt="[Illustration: Bastion at S.W. corner of Fort.]" /> +</div> + +<p>In the view of Government Street in the early sixties here produced, +may be seen marked with a X Theatre Royal. In this building, which +then was used for theatrical productions, concerts and lectures, I +heard the Rev. Morley Punshon, then president of the Wesleyan +Conference, I think. He lectured on Macaulay, and was reciting from +"Lays of Ancient Rome" when the fire bells rang, and in less than +five minutes there were only a score or so left of his audience. He +stopped an instant, proceeded, but finally stopped for good, saying +that it was the first time he had ever had to stop one of his +lectures for a fire. But when he was told that it <span class="pagenum">p.290</span> might have +been the home of any one of his audience and that it was the custom +for citizens generally to assist the firemen (who themselves were +volunteers), he continued his lecture to the end, and very +interesting it was.</p> + +<p>The first Methodist services were held in Judge Pemberton’s police +court room on Bastion Square until the church on lower Pandora Street +was finished. This church was built on the corner of Broad and +Pandora on land given by Governor Douglas, and was considered just +outside the city (1859), the tall pine trees being much in evidence a +couple of blocks away. In order to get to the church you had to pass +over a gully with water at the bottom; a sort of trestle sidewalk on +stilts was afterward constructed until the gully was filled in. At +this date the Methodists had the most pretentious church in the city. +The basement was used for Sunday School, prayer meetings and +lectures. I must not forget the tea meetings which were given in +those days. They were presided over by prominent ladies of the +congregation—Mrs. Trounce, Mrs. Donald, Mrs. Bullen, Mrs. McMillan, +Mrs. Spencer and Mrs. N. Shakespeare—and the admission to these "tea +fights," as they were termed generally, was $1.50, and well +patronized they were at that price. I attended many, and I think I +can see now the tables spread with good things, and those sitting at +them, nearly all of whom have passed away. We were early birds in +those days. Entertainments commenced at six o’clock and all over at +ten. By the large view of Government Street in 1858 it will be seen +how it has progressed. It was not metalled until 1859, and nearly all +the buildings were frame. The first brick is <span class="pagenum">p.291</span> now to be seen on +the corner of <a id="emen7">Courtney Street</a>, the "Windsor Hotel." Where the +Empress Hotel now stands, and all the land to the south and east, was +the upper part of James Bay, and mudflats, and at times not very +savory. It was not until late in 1858, or 1859, that a bridge +connected the north and south sides of James Bay, people having to +walk around the bay eastwards. The population of James Bay District +was very sparse. Trails instead of streets ran in all directions. +Belleville Street, that is now so thronged with passengers to and +from the C.P.R. steamers every day, was not then in existence, for +the beach reached to the trees in the front of the Parliament +Buildings. Where the new Pemberton block now stands, down to the +corner of Government Street, was an orchard and vegetable garden. +Across the street where the Five Sisters Block stands was a vacant +lot with a log hut in the rear where the Hudson’s Bay Company baked +bread for the citizens, four-pound loaves being twenty-five cents, +and very good it was. From Mr. Harry Glide, who arrived in Victoria +in 1856, and has lived near the Outer Wharf for fifty-four years, I +have learned much of the condition of things previous to the inrush +from California in 1858–1859. He says all James Bay District was +covered with fir trees and all the land from the mouth of the harbor +along Dallas Road to Beacon Hill was "Beckly Farm." He says there +were quite a number of Cherokee Indians here, who came from their +native place to the coast of British Columbia for work; most of them +were over six feet and strongly built. It seems strange that they +should have travelled so far from their homes for work. There were +also many <span class="pagenum">p.292</span> Kanakas here who came on vessels from Honolulu at +odd times. They formed a small colony and located on Humboldt Street, +then called Kanaka Row. I can remember them in 1859, one family +attending Christ Church regularly. There are many buried in Old +Quadra Street Cemetery. The first sheets of the <i>Colonist</i> were +printed on the Hudson’s Bay Company’s wharf in a large shed or +warehouse, and later on the paper moved to Wharf Street to about +where the Macdonald Block now stands. This was fifty-two years ago, +and our visiting friends can draw a comparison with what it then was, +a small double sheet, to its Sunday issue of to-day, with its many +illustrations. For the information of our visiting friends I might +say that the Hudson’s Bay Fort shown in the view of "Government +Street in 1858," enclosed the two blocks running south from the +corner of Bastion (the brass plate on the corner will show this) to +the corner of <a id="emen8">Courtney</a> and westwards to Wharf Street. In this fort +all hands took shelter at night at the date of its erection. In 1858 +and for years later, the fort bell rang at six o’clock in the +morning, when the gates at the east and west ends were opened, and at +six o’clock in the evening they were closed. There were two large +general stores, and many storehouses and barns inside, and at the +stores you could buy anything from a needle to an anchor, from a +gallon of molasses to the silk for a dress. I might say a deal more, +but it might not interest those for whom this sketch is written. As +it is, there are many repetitions of what I have already written in +the <i>Colonist</i> and <i>Times</i> during the last six years.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.293</p> + +<h4 class="sc">The Metropolitan Methodist Church.</h4> + +<p>To-day, February 13th, the Metropolitan Methodist Church celebrates +the fifty-third anniversary of its foundation as a congregation. It +was exactly fifty-three years ago yesterday that the first Methodist +missionaries, sent out by the Wesleyan Methodist Church of Canada, +then part of the English Wesleyan conference, landed in Victoria. +They were Rev. Dr. Ephraim Evans, his wife and family; Rev. Arthur +Browning, Rev. Ebenezer Robson and Rev. Edward White, who also +brought his family, one of his little sons being Rev. Dr. White, +to-day Superintendent of Methodist Missions in this province. Rev. +Dr. Robson was married shortly after his arrival. Of the gallant +little party who faced the hardships of the then comparatively little +known West with such tranquility and courage, all have now passed to +their rest, Dr. Robson, the last survivor, dying less than a year ago +in Vancouver.</p> + +<p>The missionaries were received by Mr. John T. Pidwell, father-in-law +of Mr. D. W. Higgins, and entertained in his home until they could +secure permanent quarters. The following Sunday, February 13, service +was held for the first time in the courthouse, and Rev. Dr. Robson +subsequently went on to Nanaimo, where he found Cornelius Bryant, a +young schoolmaster, who enjoyed the distinction of being the first +member of the Methodist Church to set foot in British Columbia. He +afterwards entered the Methodist ministry and died a few years ago. +Rev. Edward White was quartered in New Westminster, where he +established Methodism, and Rev. Mr. Browning, after acting as +evangelist at different coast points, became the pioneer Methodist +missionary in the Cariboo country.</p> + +<p class="pagenum">p.294</p> + +<div class="imgright" id="img52"> +<img width="233" height="421" src="images/vi52.jpg" alt="[Illustration: First Methodist Church.]" /> +</div> + +<h4 class="sc">Laying Corner-Stone.</h4> + +<p>During the following August the corner-stone of the first Methodist +church in Victoria was laid. The building was situated at the corner +of Broad and Pandora Streets, and was afterwards known as the Pandora +Street Methodist Church. The stone was laid by Governor Douglas, and +the building was dedicated the following May. Its usefulness was +considerably lessened, however, by the building of the Metropolitan +Methodist Church in 1890, which claims the honor of being the mother +church of Methodism in the province, as, though the Pandora Street +edifice was built first, it was not used for church purposes alone. +The first pastor of the Metropolitan Church congregation was Dr. +Evans, who was assisted by Rev. Dr. Robson, Rev. Arthur Browning and +Rev. D. V. Lucas and Rev. Coverdale Watson (whose widow is now living +in Vancouver), who acted as pastor for two separate terms.</p> + +<p>Of the pioneers of Methodism, the following families were prominent +and whom I counted among my friends: The Trounces and Donalds we had +known in California; Sheriff McMillan and family, Captain McCulloch, +Mr. and Mrs. T. S. Bone, Mr. and Mrs. Humber, Mr. and Mrs. Norris, +Alderman Kinsman, and Father McKay, as he was affectionately termed +by his intimate friends. All these have gone to their rest. Of those +who are still with us, hale and hearty, are Mrs. Bullen, Mrs. Capt. +McCulloch, Mr. and Mrs. David Spencer, Mr. and Mrs. N. Shakespeare, +Mrs. Carne, Mrs. Branch, Mr. and Mrs. Pendray, Mrs. John Kinsman, +Isaac Walsh, and others I cannot remember. I have attended many tea +meetings held in the basement of the old church, presided over by +these pioneer ladies.</p> + +<div id="tnote"> +<h4>Transcriber’s notes.</h4> +<p>For this digital transcription, illustrations have been repositioned +and page numbers in the table of illustrations have been omitted.</p> + +<p>Minor punctuation errors have been emended without notice.</p> + +<h4>Corrections to original printed text:</h4> +<table> +<tr> +<th>Page</th> +<th>Original</th> +<th>Correction</th> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="numb"><a href="#emen1">7</a></td> +<td>Recolections</td> +<td>Recollections</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="numb"><a href="#emen2">39</a></td> +<td>Johnston Street</td> +<td>Johnson Street</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="numb"><a href="#emen3">79</a></td> +<td>1558.</td> +<td>1858.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="numb"><a href="#emen4">108</a></td> +<td>Pfizenmeyer</td> +<td>Pfitzenmayer</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="numb"><a href="#emen5">180</a></td> +<td>abroad</td> +<td>aboard</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="numb"><a href="#emen6">256</a></td> +<td>peacable</td> +<td>peaceable</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="numb"><a href="#emen7">291</a></td> +<td>Courtenay Street</td> +<td>Courtney Street</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="numb"><a href="#emen8">292</a></td> +<td>Courtenay</td> +<td>Courtney</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Some Reminiscences of old Victoria, by +Edgar Fawcett + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SOME REMINISCENCES OF OLD VICTORIA *** + +***** This file should be named 26048-h.htm or 26048-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/6/0/4/26048/ + +Produced by Andrew Sly, Julia Miller and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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+Project Gutenberg's Some Reminiscences of old Victoria, by Edgar Fawcett + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Some Reminiscences of old Victoria + +Author: Edgar Fawcett + +Release Date: July 13, 2008 [EBook #26048] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SOME REMINISCENCES OF OLD VICTORIA *** + + + + +Produced by Andrew Sly, Julia Miller and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +[Illustration: FORT VICTORIA, 1859.] + + +SOME REMINISCENCES + +OF + +OLD VICTORIA + +BY + +EDGAR FAWCETT + + + Toronto + William Briggs + 1912 + + + Copyright, Canada, 1912, by + EDGAR FAWCETT. + + + +TO + +Sir Richard McBride. K.C.M.G. + + PREMIER, NATIVE SON AND PIONEER + THIS BOOK IS INSCRIBED BY + HIS HUMBLE SERVANT + THE AUTHOR. + + + + +PREFACE + + +To My Readers:-- + +A preface is, as I understand it, an explanation, and maybe an +apology, for what follows. If such is the case, I must explain +several things contained in these "Reminiscences of Old Victoria" and +its pioneers. Had I not been laid aside with the typhoid some eight +years ago, it is likely I should not have thought of writing down +these early memories, but many know what convalescing after a +sickness is--how one longs for something new, something to do. I was +at this time at the seaside, and all at once decided to pass my time +in writing. Seated comfortably on the beach with my writing pad, I +commenced "A British Boy's Experiences in San Francisco in the Early +Fifties," and so have continued on from time to time during the last +eight years. + +I have been much encouraged, by pioneers and friends, to gather the +result of these pleasant labors together, and I feel I have succeeded +in a very imperfect manner; but, dear reader, consider how little I +should be expected to know of book-making; therefore take faults and +omissions in the product of my labors _cum bona venia_, for +there are sure to be many imperfections. There are repetitions of +which I am aware, and have decided to let them stand, as I think they +fit in in each case. Had I been a man of more leisure I should not +have had to apologize for so many of these imperfections. + +I have to thank Mrs. Macdonald, of Armadale, the venerable Bishop +Cridge, and Alexander Wilson, for valuable information, and also Mr. +Albert Maynard and Reverend A. E. Alston for many photographs to +illustrate the book. We all know that a book in these days is nothing +without pictures. There are others who have helped me in other ways +who will accept my thanks. + +With these explanatory remarks, and in fear and trembling, I submit +the book to your favorable consideration. + + Dingley Dell, + Christmas, 1911. + + + + +A SHORT AUTOBIOGRAPHY + + +All the Fawcetts I ever heard of from my father and mother came from +Kidderminster. My father's father was a maltster, and the sons, with +the exception of my father, the youngest, were carpet weavers. The +family were strict Nonconformists, and produced one or two noted +divines of George the Third's day, one of whom preached before that +king. There was also a kinship with the Baxters of "Saint's Rest" +fame. + +My mother was Jane Wignall, whose father was a Birmingham smallarms +manufacturer in rather a large way of business, but who through the +dishonesty of his partner was nearly ruined and brought to +comparative poverty. The daughters, who were all well educated, had +to take positions as governesses and ladies' companions. My mother, +in this capacity, lived and travelled in France and Spain, and spoke +the languages of both countries. In a voyage to her home from +Barcelona she was wrecked in the Gulf of Lyons, but through the +timely assistance of a Spanish gentleman and his Newfoundland dog, +who bore her up, she was brought to shore in little more than her +nightdress. I have to-day a letter from the British consul at +Marseilles which he gave to my mother, recommending her to the care +of other British consuls on her way to England. The Spanish gentleman +who saved her life made an offer of marriage, which my mother +declined, I think, on account of his being a Roman Catholic. He would +not take no for an answer, but later on followed her to England and +offered himself a second time without effect. Shortly after this she +and my father were married, and on the advice of Rowland Hill, his +cousin (Sir Rowland Hill), he took his young bride to Australia. +Rowland Hill, being his father's trustee under his will, paid my +father his share, with which he took a stock of goods and started +business in Sydney. + +In 1849 we left Sydney, where I was born, for San Francisco--father, +mother, my brother Rowland and myself, in the ship _Victoria_. +This vessel my father afterwards purchased and sent to Alberni, or +Sooke, for a load of lumber for England, when we all were going with +her. The vessel never came back, having been wrecked somewhere near +where all the wrecks have since taken place, on the west coast of +this island. My father was ruined, for there was no insurance, so he +had to start life anew. He came north to Victoria in 1858, where he +entered into business until appointed Government Agent at Nanaimo, +where he served some years, dying at the advanced age of seventy-six. +My mother died in 1863, and at the present writing, in addition to +myself, there is one brother in Victoria--Rowland--and another +brother, Arthur, in London, England. + +The author has completed his fifty-three years in this fair city. + + Dingley Dell, + December 20th, 1911. + + + +CONTENTS + + +CHAPTER. PAGE + + I. The Experiences of a British Boy in San Francisco + in the Early Fifties 11 + II. Theatrical Memories 20 + III. My Boyhood Days in Victoria 26 + IV. Victoria's First Directory 38 + V. Some Recollections of Victoria by One who Was There in the Sixties 57 + VI. A Little More Street History 68 + VII. The Victoria _Gazette_, 1858 73 + VIII. Victoria in 1859-1860 84 + IX. Fires and Firemen 92 + X. A Siberian Mammoth 100 + XI. Mrs. Edwin Donald, Hon. Wymond Hamley, Hon. G. A. Walkem 109 + XII. The Consecration of the Iron Church 115 + XIII. The Iron Church Again 121 + XIV. Its Departed Glories, or Esquimalt, Then and Now 124 + XV. Old Quadra Street Cemetery 129 + XVI. Pioneer Society's Banquet 144 + XVII. Victoria District Church 149 + XVIII. Christmas In Pioneer Days 153 + XIX. The Queen's Birthday Forty Years Ago 159 + XX. Evolution of the Victoria Post Office 166 + XXI. Fifty Years Ago 170 + XXII. Forty Years Ago 174 + XXIII. The Late Governor Johnson 178 + XXIV. A Trip to a Coral Island 181 + XXV. A Victorian's Visit to Southern California 183 + XXVI. An Historic Steamer 199 + XXVII. Colonel Wolfenden--In Memoriam 203 + XXVIII. The Closing of View Street in 1858 206 + XXIX. Mr. Fawcett Retires from the Customs 212 + XXX. Some Colored Pioneers 215 + XXXI. John Chapman Davie, M.D. 220 + XXXII. The Beginning of the Royal Hospital and Protestant Orphan's Home 226 + XXXIII. Victoria's First Y. M. C. A. 229 + XXXIV. The Late Mr. T. Geiger 234 + XXXV. Roster of the Fifty-Eighters 237 + XXXVI. More Light on Closing of View Street 240 + XXXVII. Bishop Cridge's Christmas Story 244 + XXXVIII. Christmas Reminiscences 258 + XXXIX. My First Christmas Dinner in Victoria, 1860 263 + XL. Evolution of the Songhees 283 + XLI. Victoria the New and the Old 288 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + Fort Victoria, 1859, Showing Fort St. Gate + Government Street, Looking North + Government Street in 1860 + S. E. corner Government and Yates Streets, 1858 + Lady Douglas + Sir James Douglas + Edgar Fawcett + Hon. Wymond Hamley + George Richardson + George Hills, D.D. + Henry Wootton + Capt. John Irving, Sr. + Quadra Street Cemetery + A Group of Early Legislators + Fort Street, Looking East + Yates Street, Looking East + Fort Street, Extending Through the Fort + Old View of Government Street + Government Street Before the Removal of the "Old Bastion" + Wharf Street, From Corner Fort Street Northward + Craigflower, Showing School, 1858 + First Bridge Over James Bay, 1859 + Government Buildings, 1859-60 + May Day Parade, Hook and Ladder Company, May 1st, 1862 + Hon. Sir Richard McBride, K.C.M.G. + Old View of Douglas Street, Iron Church in the Distance + Showing Inside of Fort from Wharf Street, 1859 + Hon. Amor De Cosmos + William P. Sayward + Thomas Harris + Bishop Garrett + First Methodist Church + First Bridge Over the Gorge, Victoria Arm + Forty Years Ago, Queen's Birthday, Beacon Hill + Colonial Hotel + H. B. Co.'s Steamer _Beaver_ + Part of View Street, 1859 + Victoria District Church, 1859 + Hon. Senator Macdonald + Lt.-Col. Wolfenden, I.S.O., V.D. + Wm. Leigh + John Chapman Davie, M.D. + Edgar Fawcett + Captain "Willie" Mitchell + Hon. Dr. Helmcken + Gov. John H. Johnson, of Minnesota + Samuel Booth + Rev. Edward Cridge, 1859 + Venerable Bishop Cridge + Bishop and Mrs. Cridge at their Golden Jubilee + A Park in San Bernardino + Songhees Indian Reserve + Bastion--S. W. Corner of Fort + + + + + +SOME REMINISCENCES OF OLD VICTORIA + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +THE EXPERIENCES OF A BRITISH BOY IN SAN FRANCISCO IN THE EARLY FIFTIES. + + +I shall commence by saying that I, with my father, mother, brother +and sister, arrived in San Francisco in 1850, in the ship +_Victoria_, from Australia, where I was born. From stress of +weather we put into Honolulu to refit, and spent, I think, three +weeks there, and as my mother was not in good health the change and +rest on shore did her a deal of good. During our stay we became +acquainted with a wealthy American sugar planter, who was married to +a pretty native lady. They had no family, and she fell in love with +your humble servant, who was of the mature age of two and a half +years. My mother, of course, told me of this years later, how that +after consulting with her husband, the planter, she seriously +proposed to my mother that she give me to her for adoption as her +son; that I should be well provided for in the case of her husband's +death, and in fact she made the most liberal offers if she might have +me for her own. It might have been a very important epoch in my life, +for if my mother had accepted, who knows but what I might have been +"King of the Hawaiian Islands," as the planter's wife was "well +connected." But, to proceed, my mother did not accept this +flattering offer, as naturally she would not, and so we continued +on our way to San Francisco with many remembrances of my admirer's +kindness. But this is not telling of my experiences in San Francisco +eight years after. + +My first recollections are complimentary to the citizens of San +Francisco--that is, for their universal courtesy to women and +children; but this is a characteristic of the people, and I will +illustrate it in a small way. It was the custom in those days for +ladies to go shopping prepared to carry all they bought home with +them, and I used to accompany my mother on her shopping expeditions. +The streets and crossings were in a dreadfully muddy condition, and +women and children were carried over the crossings, and never was +there wanting a gallant gentleman ready to fulfil this duty, for a +duty it was considered then by all men to be attentive to women. + +What induced me to write these maybe uninteresting incidents, was the +last very interesting sketch of early life in San Francisco by my +friend, Mr. D. W. Higgins, giving an account of the doings of the +"Vigilance Committee," and the shooting of "James King of William," +as I remembered him named, and the subsequent execution of Casey for +that cold-blooded deed. Cold-blooded it was, for I was an +eye-witness, strange to say, of the affair, as I will now relate. + +I might premise by saying that my father was an enthusiastic +Britisher. But he was a firm believer in the American axiom, +though--"My country, may she ever be right; my country right or +wrong," and I, his son, echo the same sentiments. It is this +sentiment that makes me have no love for a pro-Boer. It was this +pride of country that caused him to go to the expense of +subscribing for the _Illustrated London News_ at fifty or +seventy-five cents a number, weekly, and I was on my way to Payot's +bookstore to get the last number, with the latest account of the +Crimean War, then waging between England and France against Russia. I +was within a stone's throw of Washington and Montgomery Streets, I +think, when I was startled by the sharp report of a pistol, and +looking around I saw at once where it proceeded from, for there were +about half a dozen people surrounding a man who had been shot. I, of +course, made for that point, being ever ready for adventure. The +victim of the shooting was James King of William, editor of the +_Evening Bulletin_ newspaper, and the assassin was a notorious +politician named James Casey, proprietor of the _Sunday Times_, +but a very illiterate man for all that. + +The cause of the shooting was that James King of William had in his +paper stated that Casey had served a term in Sing Sing prison in New +York for burglary. This was true, and was afterwards admitted by +Casey, but that it should have been made known by an opponent's +newspaper was too much for him, and he swore that King's days were +numbered. He kept his word, as the event showed. + +The victim of the shooting was able to stagger forward towards the +Pacific Express building on the corner of Washington and Montgomery +Streets, and entered the office, only to drop to the floor. Several +doctors were soon in attendance, and his wound bandaged, and he was +eventually moved to Montgomery Block, where he remained until he +died, six days later. It was contended by Doctor Toland that King's +death was caused by the leaving in the wound of the sponge that was +inserted immediately after the shooting to stop hemorrhage. There +were about twenty doctors in all who attended King, so is it any +wonder he died? + +The assassin was taken in charge by his friends, some of whom were at +the time close at hand, and he was taken to the station, which was a +block away, and locked up. This was the safest thing for Casey, as +his friends were in office, and he expected to get off, even if tried +for the offence, as many a like rogue had done. + +It was not long after the shooting ere the bell of the Monumental +Engine House rang out an alarm. Ten thousand people assembled, as +louder pealed the bell. The crowd now surged in the direction of the +jail, calling out, "Lynch him! lynch him!" All this time I was swept +along in the living stream of people, and well it was for me that I +was able to keep upright, for had I fallen it is doubtful if I should +have been able to rise again. The jail was doubly guarded to prevent +the citizens from getting possession of Casey, who would have been +summarily dealt with. I was now able to get out of the crowd and go +home to tell of my wonderful adventure. + +I was always in trouble through my continual search for adventure. A +gentleman friend of ours, bookkeeper, in the San Francisco sugar +refinery, was one of the Vigilance Committee, which was composed of +all grades of society, from merchants to workingmen. There were five +thousand of them enrolled to work a reformation in city government, +which was then in the hands of gamblers, thieves and escaped +convicts. At home I heard the trial and execution of Casey discussed, +and decided at all hazards to go to the important event, but I knew +it would have to be done on the sly, as my mother would never have +consented. "I let the cat out of the bag" somehow, as my mother +gave me a solemn warning that if I went I should get the worst +whipping I ever had in my life. + +I brooded on this for some days, and finally decided to go and take +my chances of being found out. So on the day I of course played +hookey, and got to the place early. I climbed up an awning post +nearly opposite the gallows, and sat on the top with some other +adventurous spirits, who, like myself, were hungry for adventure. I +shall not describe what I saw, for my friend, Mr. Higgins, has +already done that. When I got home I paid dearly for my disobedience. +My elder brother happened to have been opposite me, on the other side +of the street. I got my promised whipping, well laid on, and was sent +supperless to bed, feeling very sore. But I was not fated to go +without supper, for, as I lay unrepentant, Amy, my little sister, +crept into the room and brought me part of hers, and, what I more +appreciated then, her sympathy and tears. God bless her! She was +taken from us soon after to a better life. + +One afternoon later (I won't be sure of dates), as father and I were +going home, we were arrested by the sweet strains of music, which +proceeded from a band a block away. Father hesitated for an instant, +then started off at a run, calling to me to come on. We were soon +there, and to explain father's strange action in running after a band +of music, I have only to say that the tune was one dear to the hearts +of all Britons, "God Save the Queen," so, could you wonder at his +excitement, as we stood in front of the British Consulate? The reason +of it all was the news received that day of the fall of Sebastopol. +After a few words from the consul we all moved off to the French +Consulate, and here all was repeated, but to the strains of the +Marseillaise hymn. Of course this good news was fully discussed +at home, and some days after it was decided to have the event +celebrated by the British and French residents by a procession and +banquet in a pavilion, with an ox and several sheep roasted whole. +The day arrived, and I, of course, had to go with father in the +procession, carrying a British flag. In the midst of the festivities +a lot of roughs broke into the pavilion, tore down the British and +French flags, and then worked havoc with the pavilion itself. It +was a most disgraceful affair, and would not have occurred, I am +confident, in any British possession; but then ours may not be such +a free country. Father was most indignant, and wrote to Marryat's +newspaper calling on the British Consul to take official notice of +the affair, but I don't remember the result. Marryat was, I believe, +an Englishman. + +The next little incident I shall name the "Battle of the Standard," +because it was all about a little flag. It was the celebration of the +laying of the Atlantic cable, and all the public school children took +part in a monster parade. Each child carried a small flag, such as we +have for the Queen's birthday celebration in Canada. + +As may be supposed American flags swamped the British in numbers, +still there was a good sprinkling of the latter. I happened to be one +British boy among many American boys, and they bantered me +considerably about my flag being "alone," and at last exasperated me, +and on my flag being snatched away by a boy I snatched it back again, +and in the scuffle it was torn from the stick and I cried with +vexation. One of the teachers, however, supplied me with another, +which you may suppose I took good care of. Will the Americans never +get over their silly jealousy with respect to the flying of foreign +flags in their country? We Canadians are always pleased to see +the Star Spangled Banner waving alongside the Union Jack, and hope it +may long wave. + +The Mexican coin valued at two reals, or two bits, as we called it +then, represented the value of two small apples in those days, and +everything was dear in proportion. These coins were more in +circulation than American, I think, the place being full of Mexicans. +They were very picturesque, riding about dressed in buckskin trousers +with fringe down the leg, wearing wide-brimmed felt hats and on their +heels immense spurs, which made a great noise as they walked. They +were a great attraction to me as they galloped like mad after cattle, +throwing with great skill a rawhide lariat or lasso, which rarely +missed its victim. My thirst for adventures led me with several other +kindred spirits to play hookey from school, and go into the country +to see these Mexicans drive wild cattle about, and then to the +slaughterhouse to see them killed. When I was found out I was well +whipped, of course, but I often escaped. + +San Francisco in those days was mostly built of wood, and when a fire +started, with a fair wind, the damage done was something enormous. My +spirit of adventure took me to many of these fires, in fact it was +hard to keep me in when a large one was burning. From our house I +have seen the greater part of the city swept away twice, and a +grander sight cannot be imagined, seen from an eminence, and maybe at +night, too. I was off like a shot, and, running all the way, was soon +on the scene. Anyone and everyone volunteered to help carry goods to +a place of safety, and hot work it was, I can tell you, for being +mostly of wood, and maybe redwood, they (the houses) burnt like +tinder. From running to so many fires and falling down in my haste +I got my shins bruised and bleeding, and my trousers, of course, +torn. I was showing my children these scars only lately, they being +still much in evidence after fifty-four years. + +As I have before stated, the stores were built of redwood, and with +cellars. The floors of many had trapdoors, and when the fire got near +them the storekeeper opened the trapdoor, and all the goods were +swept off the shelves into the cellar, and covered up. After this the +owner of the building took a bee-line for the lumber yard to get in +his order for lumber for a new building ahead of his neighbor. They +were the exciting days and no mistake! A week after one of these +devastating fires all was built up and looked the same as usual. I +might state that the firebells rang on all occasions to bring the +citizens together in those times of tumult, and all prominent men +were firemen. + +I can well remember the election of President Buchanan, and if I +remember right, the voting was in the open air in each ward of the +city, the ballots being placed in large glass globes. At one of these +polling-places I saw a fight, the result of a dispute between a +Democrat and a Republican over an accusation by one that the other +had put in a double ticket (I think this was the cause). + +To close this history, I might say that my father and his partner put +all they had, some ten thousand dollars, into a venture which +eventually brought us to Vancouver Island to live. They bought a +vessel, and sent her in ballast to Alberni or Sooke for a load of +lumber, and it was arranged that on her return to San Francisco she +was to take the lumber to England, and we all were to go home again +in her. But "L'homme propose et Dieu dispose" was here exemplified, +for the ship never came back. After weeks of anxiety when the ship +was overdue, one day either the captain, or the mate came to my +father with the news that the ship was wrecked in Barclay Sound, and +as there was not a dollar of insurance we were ruined, and had to +commence all over again. + +The result of all this was that later we embarked with about six +hundred others on the steamer _Northerner_ for Victoria, to try +and retrieve something of what we lost. I will not vouch for the +accuracy of the dates or the rotation in which the incidents are +related, but I have done my best after cudgeling my brain for weeks +for the general result as here presented. + +[Portrait: Edgar Fawcett.] + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +THEATRICAL MEMORIES. + + +In looking through a trunk of old letters and other odds and ends the +other day, I came across what might be considered of some interest to +some of our pioneers in the sixties. The find consisted of six +playbills, or, as they could very well be considered, theatrical +posters, from the size; but they were such as were then given to +people as they passed the doorkeeper into the old Victoria Theatre on +Government Street. They measure two feet long by ten inches wide, and +are like posters alongside those now used. These plays were produced +in the times of Governors Douglas and Seymour, and were under their +distinguished patronage. + +In those days very few theatrical companies visited Victoria, except +at irregular intervals, so that theatre-goers had to rely, to a great +extent, on the productions of the Victoria Amateur Dramatic Club to +fill up the intervals. At this date there were many well-educated and +professional men here who had come from the Old Country to get rich +in a short time; and, thinking the mines were close to this city, +many of these joined the club. Charles Clarke was a prominent member, +also W. M. Anderson, C. B. Tenniel, together with many of our young +business men, viz., Arthur Keast, the brewer; Lumley Franklin, the +auctioneer; S. Farwell, the civil engineer; H. C. Courtney, the +barrister; H. Rushton and Joseph Barnett, of one of the banks; +Ben Griffin, mine host of the Boomerang; Godfrey Brown, of Janion, +Green & Rhodes; W. J. Callingham, of McCutcheon & Callingham, drapers +(the latter, by the bye, was a most clever low comedian); Plummer, +the auctioneer; and last, though not least, Alex. Phillips, of +soda water fame. These names will all be familiar to old pioneers. +As female talent was scarce, or they were loth to take part in +theatricals, the other sex had to be enlisted, and I shall not forget +the meeting at the Boomerang (our meeting-place) when this difficulty +was met by the suggestion that your humble servant should take +the part of "Emily Trevor" in "Boots at the Swan." I protested my +inability, but was overruled. Not yet having occasion to use a razor, +and being youthful, it was decided that I should try my hand at +female impersonation, under the "stage name" of "Helen Fawcet." The +result of the experiment was that I subsequently took the parts of +"Julia Jenkins" in "Who Stole the Pocket-book?" and "Mary Madden" in +"Henry Dunbar." This last character was a rather more difficult one +than the others, and although I was perfect in my part, I was +reported in the next morning's _Colonist_ by "Leigh Harnett" as +looking very sweet, etc., but "as not speaking up," which, of course, +was a serious defect. This criticism was a damper on my theatrical +aspirations in female parts, for I returned to the commonplace parts +of a poacher, a brigand and a footman. The performances were +generally given for some charity, such as the Orphans of St. Ann, the +fire department, and so forth, and were "under" the distinguished +patronage of Admiral Hastings and officers of H.M.S. _Reindeer_, and +officers of the fleet often helped us out. I see by the bills that +the admission was $1.50 reserved seats, $1.00 unreserved, and 50 +cents "pit," with $10 for a box. "Performance to commence promptly +at 7.30." The orchestra was composed, with others, of Digby Palmer, +F. S. Bushell, Gunther and Roberts, with, I think, Bandmaster Haynes. +All our performances were given under the direction of R. G. Marsh, +a standard theatrical manager, who, with his wife, adopted daughter, +"Jenny Arnot," his son and Miss Yeoman, was a great help to us. In +fact without their assistance we could not have produced plays with +female characters. Not to make this too long, I will wind up by +giving what I can remember of a piece called "The Merchant of Venice +Preserved," by a local poet. It was full of local hits, which only +those who were acquainted with politics and the questions of the day +at that time will understand: + + "This shall Inform Bassanio that I'm done Brown, + My chance is up, my ship, alas! gone down. + The vessel on her homeward way, sir, + Laden with the rich products of the Fraser (river)-- + The famed sal-lals for making jams, + Monster sturgeon, cranberries and clams-- + Bumped on the sands and so a wreck became; + Captain, as usual, 'not at all to blame.' + The people here say just as they like, + And lay the blame on 'Titcombe' or on 'Pike.' + For me, no sympathy I get; to them 'tis fun; + Alas for me, I'm 'Capitally' done; + Then those brick stores, which I fondly thought + For bonded warehouses would soon be sought; + Bring 'Nary red,' no revenue they raise; + No ships arriving, no one duty pays; + From Sorrow's page I've learned all man can know, + For 'Cochrane's' just sold off my grand pi-an-o; + So if with means to aid me you're invested, + Haste, for the Jews won't rest till I'm arrested. + + "Your loving friend, + + "_Antonio._" + +The evening of my first appearance in female character, I was dressed +at home, and escorted down town with a lady on each side of me, and I +can remember how hard it was for them to keep their countenance, for +several times I thought I was discovered ere we reached the theatre. +We all walked to and from the theatre in those days--there were not +half a dozen hacks in Victoria. + +[Illustration: Government St. with Theatre Royal.] + +The photo shows old "Theatre Royal" at the time of which I write, +viz., 1866 to 1868, and in which all the theatricals were produced in +these early days; although there was a sort of theatre used for +nigger minstrel performances and concert hall business. This was +situated under Goodacre's butcher shop. The principal actor and negro +delineator was "Tom Lafont," whose equal I have not seen since as an +imitator of negro comicalities and as a bird whistler. He will be +well remembered by old-timers. The Theatre Royal was situated on +Government Street, one door from the corner of Bastion, as will be +seen in the picture. This corner was first occupied by Doctor Davie, +sr., then by a Doctor Dickson, when first I remember it. He died +about a year ago in Portland, Oregon, just after a visit to this +city. The theatre was, I think, composed of two of the big barns in +the fort, which being connected together, made one long building, +reaching to Langley Street. There was a saloon or restaurant kept +by Sam Militich on the one side of the front entrance, and Newbury's +saddlery shop on the other. The upper front of the theatre was used +as a photograph gallery, and was occupied, among others, by a Mr. +Gentile and J. Craig. A showcase of photos, in a small annex, which +was connected with the gallery above, may be seen with a magnifying +glass. + +Charles Keen and Mrs. Keen produced several of Shakespeare's plays +here in 1864, and I went with my father to see "Macbeth." We had +seats in the pit, or orchestra chairs, as now known. Reserved tickets +were three dollars, and although this was thought to be a famine +price, the opportunity of hearing such celebrated people as the Keens +was not to be resisted, so the house was packed at each performance. + +Charles Wheatley, considered a fine comedian, produced the "Colleen +Bawn," or the "Brides of Garry Owen." The play made a lasting +impression on me, as the finest comedy I had ever seen. It may be +that Mr. Wheatley's fine personation of Danny Mann, the leading part, +made me think so, but it was a fact nevertheless. + +Madame Anna Bishop, whom Mr. Higgins has told us about in one of his +interesting stories, delighted many audiences in "Old Theatre Royal." + +I can also remember the Reverend Morley Puncheon, who was a +celebrated Methodist preacher, and chairman of the home church in +England. He gave readings from celebrated authors. During one of +these readings, and while he was reciting from Macaulay's "Lays of +Ancient Rome," the fire bell rang, and in less time than five minutes +there was hardly a man left of his audience. He was at first struck +dumb with surprise, then offended. That such an ordinary thing, as it +seemed to him, should have stopped his lecture! But it was +explained to him how that fires were put out by the citizens +generally; that it was a matter of much moment to them; that it may +have been the home of any of them; also that many of the audience +were members of a fire company, and were liable to be fined for +non-attendance, although their services were given free. This +satisfied him, and he went on with the reading. Theatre Royal served +Victoria until the building of Theatre Victoria. + +[Illustration: Corner of Government and Yates streets.] + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +MY BOYHOOD DAYS IN VICTORIA. + + + How dear to this heart are the scenes of my childhood, + When fond recollection presents them to view! + The orchard, the meadow, the deep-tangled wildwood, + And every loved spot which my boyhood then knew. + + Oh! give me back my boyhood days, + The sportive days of childhood. + The merry games with bat and ball, + The rambles through the wildwood. + +As I stated in my experiences in San Francisco in the early fifties, +and in consequence of the loss of my father's vessel near Alberni, we +came north to Victoria after gold was discovered in British Columbia. +We took passage in the steamer _Northerner_, which was filled +with passengers and freight, and came via Portland, arriving in +Esquimalt on the 11th day of February, 1859. I might state that all +the ocean steamers docked at Esquimalt then, and the passengers were +freighted round in a smaller steamer to the Hudson's Bay wharf in our +harbor. The first thing that attracted our attention on coming into +the harbor was the high palisade of the fort, which ran along Wharf +Street from the corner of Bastion to Broughton Street, up thence +to Government Street, along Government to Bastion Street, to the +cigar store with the brass plate on, now occupied by North and +Richardson. Opposite Fort Street there was an entrance, and another +on Wharf Street. + +[Illustration: Fort Street, extending through the fort.] + +In the centre of the large gates there were smaller ones. These small +gates were opened every morning at seven o'clock on the ringing of +the fort bell, which was suspended from a kind of belfry in the +centre of the yard. To the north were the stores and warehouses, and +to the south large barns; the residences were situated on the east +side of the fort. + +The stores were patronized by all the colonists, not then being +confined to the Company's servants, as in former times. Fort Street +looked very different to what it does now. The roadbed was composed +of boulders, which, being round, made rough riding, and so muddy, +too! Try and imagine it. The sidewalk was of two-inch boards, laid +lengthwise, three boards wide, I think, and commenced at the Brown +Jug corner, running up for three or four blocks. + +Where the Brown Jug now stands was a large orchard and garden, +surrounded by a whitewashed fence, which ran along Government Street +to Broughton, taking in the whole block eastward. Many an apple have +I had from this orchard, and apples were apples in those days, +whatever they may be now. + +The Company's bakery, where we got our bread, was across Fort Street, +on the site of the Five Sisters block, and was a log-built house, +whitewashed. I think part of the bakehouse was to be seen in late +years in the rear of a carpenter's shop on Broad Street, also I think +the baker himself is still alive, and named James Stockham. He made +excellent bread and charged twenty-five cents a loaf, but such loaves +they were, being at least three times as large as modern loaves. + +There was a good story told of the Hudson's Bay Company, and the +price of flour and bread during the gold excitement, which reflected +great credit on the Chief Factor of the company. It was said that a +scheme was concocted to corner all the flour in the country (_a la_ +trust) by some enterprising citizens across the border; and the +Company was approached by these gentlemen, who proposed to them to +buy their whole stock of flour for that purpose. To the credit of +the Company's officials, they refused to do so, and sold at the usual +price, against the combination, and so broke it up. + +[Illustration: Sir James Douglas and Lady Douglas.] + +After we had got settled in our new home the question of sending me +to school was discussed, and easily settled, for it was Hobson's +choice. The Colonial School, as it was called, was on the site of the +present Central School. It was the only one I can think of except +Angela College, and maybe a private school. There was a fee of five +dollars a year charged, payable quarterly in advance. + +After you left Blanchard Street, the way to the school was by a +pathway through the woods. The country around View and Fort Streets, +up to Cook, was very swampy, and covered mostly by willow and alder +trees. In fact there was a small swamp or lake on View Street, where +there was good duck shooting in winter. When I went to the Colonial +School in 1859, it was taught by a young man named Kennedy, whose +father was Dr. Kennedy, of the Hudson's Bay Company, and whose +brother was in the same service. Some months later he resigned, and +his successor was an Irishman named W. H. Burr, whose temper was +quick, like my own, and although he tried to make me a good scholar, +I am afraid I did not do him or his teaching justice, and I +remember two good beatings he gave me far better than the useful +knowledge he tried to inculcate. + +It was thus: Our school might aptly be termed a mixed one, for it +consisted of boys and girls who sat together. This arrangement just +suited me, for I was fond of the girls. There were white boys and +black boys, Hebrews and Gentiles, rich and poor, and we all sat close +together to economize room. One day a dispute arose between a white +boy and a black boy, and ended in a fistic encounter. I was mainly +instrumental in bringing it about, and backed my man until the sponge +was thrown up by the white boys' friend. Mr. Burr heard of the +occurrence through the boys not reporting at the school the next +morning, and an investigation by the master revealed my part in the +affair. I was sentenced to be flogged for aiding and abetting. This +was announced in the morning, and to be carried out in the afternoon. +My friends collected around me after school closed and various advice +was given me as to how I should act under the trying circumstances. +After the consultation was over it was decided that I should put on a +pair of old gloves inside out, as it was supposed the cane would not +hurt as much that way, and it being dusk at four o'clock, when we +broke up in winter, the master might not see the difference in the +color of my hands. I was on hand at flogging time, against the advice +of some of my friends, who counselled me not to show up. Mr. Burr +laid on the cane on my hands, and at first I did not feel it much, +but after about half the whipping was given it got unbearable, and I +could not hold out any longer, so bolted, was stopped, knocked down, +and eventually I got under the seats and desks, and was followed by +the irate master and hit on any part that was exposed to view. Mr. +Burr did not give up until he was tired out, and I was glad +to take advantage of this fact and get out, and off home, a much +wiser if not a better boy. I got little sympathy at home when I told +them that I had been whipped for causing a fight between a white boy +and a black boy named White. + +My next whipping was interrupted by the master's wife, who frequently +interfered, and by her pleadings for the culprit and offering to go +bail for his future good behavior, got him off with lighter +punishment. I shall always think kindly of Mrs. Burr, for if ever +there was a good, kind-hearted woman it was she. Mr. Burr often went +to auctions, and before going, he appointed a monitor, who had charge +during his absence. One day during his absence all hands vacated our +desks and proceeded to the vegetable garden, which contained a good +assortment of all kinds, and as boys are known to be over-fond of raw +carrots and turnips, especially if stolen, we were soon at work +digging up our favorite vegetables. After peeling them with our +jackknives we might have been seen sitting on the fence and school +porch eating as only boys can eat. In the midst of our vegetarian +feast the lookout announced the distant approach of the master, and +then there was a scattering of the boys, as half-eaten carrots and +turnips were thrown away, and we regained our seats in school looking +as innocent as lambs. Then Mr. Burr appeared on the scene. Mrs. Burr +must have seen us, but was too good-hearted to tell her husband all +she knew. + +I have said the school was reached by a trail through the woods, and +very pretty the woods looked in summer. The school and grounds were +surrounded by spreading oaks, which covered that part of the city, or +country as it was then called, and it was under these trees we sat +with the girls and ate our lunch, or rested in the shade after our +innings at ball. Wild flowers, that now are only found miles away, +were found there in profusion. We children always took our lunches, +it being considered too far to go home for the midday meal. + +Many will remember the old schoolhouse which was pulled down to make +way for the present Central School. It was built of square logs and +whitewashed, and was occupied by the master and his family. The +school proper occupied only about a third of the building, and was a +large room extending from the front to the back of the building. Of +the old boys and girls who survive those early school days I can +think of these: Judge Harrison; John Elford, of Elford & Smith; +Theophilus Elford, of Shawnigan Lake Lumber Company; Mr. Anderson, of +Saanich; the Tolmie and Finlayson boys; Edward Wall (late Erskine & +Wall); Ernest Leigh, son of the late city clerk, now of San +Francisco, and John and Fred Mecredy, also of San Francisco. Of the +girls there are Sarah Allatt, now Mrs. Jos. Wriglesworth; Sylvestra +Layzell, now Mrs. O. C. Hastings, and her sister Lucy, now also +married; and Sarah Pointer, now Mrs. Carter. I had nearly forgotten +Ned Buckley, who left here for the States and became an actor of some +note. + +Of those dead I can best remember David Work, of Hillside Farm, and +my chum, the late James Douglas, son of Sir James, then Governor. If +I remember right, he was unintentionally the cause of my second +whipping. He seemed much attached to me, and many were the rides we +had together in his trap, which brought him to school every morning. +He was a kindred spirit, wilful like myself, and had a habit of +suddenly getting up in school and announcing to the master that he +was going home, or it might be for some long drive, usually to +Cadboro Bay. Mr. Burr would remonstrate with him, but generally gave +way, and off he went. As he and I got intimate he wanted me to go +with him on these expeditions, and often at the unseemly hours of two +or three o'clock, during school. + +One day he got up suddenly in his seat and said: "Mr. Burr, I am +going home and I want Fawcett to go with me; that will be all right, +won't it?" + +"Now, Master James," said Mr. Burr, "I cannot allow this; I must +protest against this going away during school hours. If His +Excellency only knew, what would he say?" + +"Oh, that will be all right, Mr. Burr." + +"No, no, James, it is not all right, and as for Fawcett going with +you I cannot allow it, Master James; heed me or I must have a word +with Sir James about you." + +[Portrait: William Leigh.] + +All this time James was standing up at his desk with his riding-whip +in his hand, and making signs for me to follow, which I proceeded to +do, the master protesting all the time. I got my reward next day, but +not as bad as I would have got had not good Mrs. Burr come to my +rescue. We drove to Upland Farm, then the home of City Clerk Leigh +and his family, at Cadboro Bay. Mrs. Leigh was always good to James +and I on these visits to the farm, getting us the best to eat and +plenty of fresh milk to drink. By some understanding between Sir +James and Mr. Burr we continued these afternoon drives, and it may be +imagined how we boys enjoyed them. We continued friends to the last, +and years after I worked like a beaver when he was elected a member +of the Legislature for Victoria City. He was godfather to my eldest +son, who was named after him. I have still a handsome book given +me by Sir James at the last break-up of school before I left. + +We now and then hear complaints by prudish people of the boys bathing +on Victoria Arm, on Deadman's Island and elsewhere without a full +bathing suit. What would they say to the boys of my time bathing in +Nature's suit only, and that on the waterfront from James Bay bridge +all around to the Hudson's Bay Company's wharf? We bathed there at +all times, and to our heart's content, and never was exception taken +to it by the authorities, or in fact by anyone. Use is second nature, +and I suppose that accounted for it. + +Have any of my readers ever seen Deadman's Island (the island which +is opposite Leigh's mill) when it was covered with trees and shrubs? +Well, up these trees were corpses of Indians fastened up in trunks +and cracker boxes, but mostly trunks, the bodies being doubled up to +make them fit in the trunk, and then suspended like Mahomet's coffin +between heaven and earth. There were also some Indians buried in the +shallow soil and surrounded by fences, and again boxes of corpses +were piled one on top of the other. This island was a favorite place +of the school boys as a rendezvous for swimming, and many a summer's +afternoon and Saturday have I spent there in the good old days gone +by. + +I shall now relate an incident of one of these expeditions to the +island by myself and three others. I can recollect the names of only +two members of the expedition of that Saturday, and I might say that +they were my schoolfellows of the Collegiate School, which occupied +the site of Mr. Ellis's residence on Church Hill, and was afterwards +burnt down. I left the Colonial School in 1860, and transferred to +the Collegiate School, which was conducted as a church institution. +Rev. C. T. Woods was principal, with Rev. Mr. Reese, "Cantab." +Williams, and Messrs. Vincent and Palmer, French and drawing and +music, as the full staff. Well, about the Deadman's Island affair. +One Saturday afternoon in midsummer four of us--Robert Branks, a +brother of Mrs. Doctor Powell, William Galley, James Estall and a +fourth whose name I cannot now remember hired a boat at Lachapelle's, +near James Bay Bridge, and made for Deadman's Island. We enjoyed the +luxury of running about the island like the savages on Robinson +Crusoe's island, then dived into deep water, swam around for a time +and landed to dry and warm ourselves at a fire we had made for that +purpose. All boys know that a fire is indispensable to swimming and +bathing. + +While squatting on the ground around the fire the idea struck me that +by the way the wind was blowing it would not need much encouragement +for the fire to take hold of some of the boxes of bones, which may +have represented an Indian chief, his wife or child. I then proposed +that we accidentally on purpose "set fire to the whole lot." After a +council of war it was finally decided to carry out my suggestion, as +a grand wind-up of our day's outing. Time after time we dived off, +and swam around till tired, and then came ashore to dry ourselves at +the fire. This is the exact routine of boys' swimming expeditions of +these present days, and will be to the end of all time. We got tired +of it at last and dressed, preparing to go home, when the subject of +the firing of the Indian corpses was again discussed. Should we do it +or not? Robert Branks was with me all right, but one boy was fearful +of the consequences. "The chief and all the Indians on the Songhees +reserve would soon see the fire and would be after us." There was +something in this, for there were hundreds then, where there are now +dozens, and it was risky. + +After each had said his say, we put it to the vote, and it was +carried three to one that the fire take place. We set fire to a lot +of pieces of broken coffins at two separate places alongside a pile +of boxes or trunks of bones. Then we made all haste to get aboard our +craft, up sail and away. We had hardly reached the bridge and crossed +the harbor from the bottom of Johnson Street to the Indian reserve, +when the fire could be seen plainly as having been a success from our +point of view--so much so that we made greater haste to get to the +boathouse. We lost no time in settling up for the boat hire, and +making the best of our legs in getting home. The paper next morning +was early sought for, and with fear and trembling, too. There was +good reason for fear, for the paper gave an account of the affair. +The Indians had made complaint to the police, and they were searching +for the culprits. I was afraid to go out at all, much less to go to +school, and every knock at the door made me start. I at last +confessed to my parents my share in the business, and it was decided +that I must "lay low" for a few days, and lucky it was for me I did +not get what I deserved, a good whipping, as my mother said. The +quartette of boys kept their counsel, and we escaped a visit from the +police. + +Some time later we visited the island to see the result of the fire, +and found that all traces of the burying-ground had vanished, the +surface of the island being swept clean, with not a trace of boxes, +bones or trees, and it has remained so till this day. + +In the absence of Chinese market gardens, and the kitchen garden now +attached to most homesteads, we had to go to a distance for our +vegetables. It took us the best part of a day to go to Hillside Farm +for a sack of assorted vegetables. Several boys would start together +for this trip into the country. It is astonishing how the absence +of streets or roads lengthens this distance, and so it was then. We +started after breakfast and took our lunch, going across country by +trail, each with a sack, which was filled by old Willie Pottinger, +the gardener, for a shilling. Very good and fresh they were, and very +cheap this was considered. With our loads we started for home, and +the further we got from Hillside the heavier the vegetables got, and +therefore the more stoppages we made to rest. At last Port and +Blanchard Streets were in sight, and we were home again, tired out +and hungry as hunters. + +The last I remember of the Hudson's Bay fort was during the contest +brought on by the burning question of the day, namely Union and +Tariff vs. Free Port. The mainland represented Tariff and the island +Free Port. Should we join with the mainland with a tariff or remain +Free Port? The hustings was erected in the fort, and the pros and +cons were discussed by the rival candidates. I took part, although +too young to vote, and worked day and night for my friend Amor De +Cosmos, who was in favor of union and tariff, and we won the day, +too. + +Before I conclude I would again speak of the large stores in the +fort, which supplied the colonists with all they required except +meats. It was said at the time that you might get anything at the +stores, from a needle to an anchor. This might well have been true, +for it was the repository of all the Company's goods for supplying +their servants with all their necessaries. + +One of the first visits I paid was with my mother, as in San +Francisco, and amongst various articles I carried away was a pair of +Old Country boots. These boots I am not likely to forget, as I wore +them so long. The soles were twice the usual thickness of even boys' +boots, and, like a horseshoe, had a row of nails with projecting +square heads a quarter inch thick. These boots left their mark +wherever they went, and, as may be supposed, as I was a strong, +healthy boy with a roving disposition, they travelled considerably. +Wear them out I could not, kicking rocks and stubbing my toes against +everything I came against, for I found them awkward and heavy to +carry, and in fact everything gave way before them. My poor mother +often called out at the marks of the square-headed nails on her +clean floors, which in those days were not covered with carpets or +linoleum, as now. These boots were a feature of the store, and were, +I think, $3.75 or $4 a pair--but enough of hobnailed boots. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +VICTORIA'S FIRST DIRECTORY. + + +In 1860 was issued the first directory of Victoria, Vancouver Island, +by Edward Mallandaine, an architect, who continued to issue a +Victoria directory at intervals for years afterwards. Through the +kindness of Mr. Mallandaine, who is a pioneer of 1858, I am enabled +to review this relic of early and interesting times, for those of us +who remember them as "the good old times." I shall here give some of +the author's "Prefatory remarks": + +"It has been thought by the author of the following work that the +present being an age of advancement, the period has fully arrived +when our fair town of Victoria is of sufficient importance to deserve +that index of commercial progress, a Directory. We have been reliably +informed that about 35,000 immigrants from California and elsewhere +have arrived, and have produced a most marvellous state of transition +in the two countries [Vancouver Island and British Columbia.] A +number of wharves have been constructed this past season, a new +timber bridge across James Bay has been built, giving access to the +newly-erected Government offices for public lands and to Government +House, which are of an ornamental character. Streets leading to the +bridge have been graded and metalled over and are passable at all +times. A temporary want of funds alone prevents more being done in +this way, as also the completion of two embankments (in lieu of +bridges) in a ravine [Johnson Street, I think, E. F.]. Wooden +buildings have ceased to be the order of the day. We have been +fortunate in hitherto escaping with but one single disaster in the +shape of fire. Some public-spirited citizens taking the lead, a Hook +and Ladder Company has been organized, and subscriptions raised to +defray the necessary outlay of a building and a Hook and Ladder +Apparatus and an Engine. We have a large bookstore [Hibben & +Carswell's]; two hotels of considerable dimensions, Royal and +Victoria, and several houses, all erected in brickwork. The Hudson's +Bay Company are erecting a warehouse of pretentious dimension of +stone, which they import from a distance of not less than forty +miles, and a new bank, 'Bank of British North America.' Great demands +are made for a Public Hall for meetings, and the want of a Theatre +is felt. The last few months have seen an increase in our legal +defenders, and the arrival of an attorney-general for British +Columbia. + +"We have seen by an effort in the right direction a large tract of +land, 20,000 acres in the neighborhood of Victoria, put up for sale +by auction at the upset price of $1.00 per acre. + +"We have of churches one Episcopalian, one Roman Catholic, one +Methodist mission, one Congregational mission, one nunnery school, +Sisters of St. Ann's, one private educational institute (by the +author) for both sexes, and one Young Ladies' Seminary. + +"We have an hospital (Royal) started originally by Rev. Edward +Cridge, of Christ Church, and now sadly overburdened with debt. + +"A Masonic lodge is in course of formation; an Odd Fellows' +Association has been in existence for a year; a Ladies' Benevolent +Society, under the presidency of Mrs. Col. Moody; a Hebrew Victoria +Benevolent Society has been in existence some six months; a +Philharmonic Society, under the conduct of John Bailey, is among one +of its oldest institutions, and to conclude we have in Victoria a +_free port_. This is an immense advantage, coupled with its commanding +situation for an eastern and Asiatic trade and its position, opposite +the North American and Pacific railway (which will shortly be an +undoubted fact). In conclusion, we have to place our work in its +present state in the hands of an indulgent public," E. M., etc. + +[Portrait: Captain John Irving.] + +I now propose to review the names of the 1860 pioneer merchants, as +illustrated on the covers and through the directory, bringing their +names before the pioneers of those days again. This directory is +nothing more than a history of the city at that time, and to me is +most interesting reading. It is not to be supposed that newcomers of +twenty years' residence will give it more than passing notice, but +they will excuse us old hands for being interested. + +On the front cover is a picture of the Royal Hotel on Wharf Street, +corner of Johnson, Jas Wilcox, proprietor, who also owned property on +Fort Street opposite Philharmonic Hall, Wilcox Alley running through +the property. The Royal Hotel with the Victoria were the first brick +hotels built here in 1858. It was on a vacant lot alongside the Royal +Hotel that the Rev. Alexander C. Garrett, about 1861 or 1862, used to +preach on Sunday afternoons to large crowds, mostly sailors and +miners, although all sorts and conditions of sinners were there. He +was a most eloquent Irishman, was a missionary to the Indians, and +lived on the Songhees reserve. The choir of Christ Church attended to +lead the music, and as I was a choir boy, I was there, as also, +I think, Dr. Davie. The minister stood on a packing-box, and the +whole scene is vivid in my memory. The motley crowd, as may be +supposed, the music in the open air, and the eloquent speaker, all +combined to make the scene one to be remembered. Mr. Garrett left +here for the States, afterwards being made bishop of the Protestant +Episcopal Church of America. + +On the inside of the cover is a picture of Stationers' Hall, Hibben & +Carswell, on the corner of Yates and Langley Streets. During +fifty-four years the business has gone on prospering. Although the +three principals of that day are gone to their rest, the business is +still carried on as Hibben & Co., under the able management of +William S. Bone, one of its partners. I might state that Mr. Bone +entered the business as a boy at the age of eighteen years, and +subsequently a partnership was formed, consisting of T. N. Hibben, C. +W. Kammerer and William H. Bone. R. T. Williams, in charge of the +Provincial Government Bindery, was also on the staff of this pioneer +firm in the early sixties. + +On the next page are two views, one of William Zelnor's drug store, +on Government Street, between Yates and Johnson, east side. He +afterwards moved to the corner of Yates and Government, where the B. +C. Market now does business. The second is the store of Webster and +Co., Yates Street, the building now occupied by Bissinger and Co., +hide dealers. Mr. Jesse Cowper, who was a resident of Menzies Street, +James Bay, was a partner in the firm, and a cousin of the Websters, +and after many years' connection with the concern retired to enjoy +the results of his success in this business. He has since died. + +Janion & Green, commission merchants, foot of Johnson Street, near +the bridge, come next. The firm was afterwards Janion, Green & +Rhodes; the latter was the respected father of Mr. Rhodes, of the +firm of Brackman & Ker Milling Co., and was Hawaiian consul, having +previously been in business in Honolulu. The business house of A. +Hoffman, dry goods, north-west corner of Yates and Government, is +a frame building. Next are two well-known firms, viz., A. Gilmore, +merchant tailor, Yates Street, fourth door from Waddington Alley, and +K. Gambitz, Yates Street, next to Bank of British North America. He +was an American Hebrew, and sold out to Thomas and William Wilson, +who for many years conducted the business on Government Street as the +"City House." + +James Bell, general hardware, Johnson Street; Robertson, Stewart & +Co., commission merchants, Yates Street; and Bayley's Hotel, which +was on the site of the Pritchard House, now turned into a bank; +Sporburg & Co., importers of provisions and dry goods, Wharf Street, +foot of Yates; Thos. Patrick & Co., corner Johnson and Government +Streets, wholesale liquors; Pierce & Seymour, corner Yates and +Douglas Streets, furniture dealers. Mr. Seymour was one of the +charter members of the Pioneer Society, which society he took a great +interest in. He was a firm believer in the cold water cure, and took +cold water baths for all ailments. One morning, his furniture store +(which then occupied the site of the Colonist Building) not opening +up at the usual hour, the door was broken open, and Mr. Seymour was +found dead in his cold bath. He was a good-hearted man, and a good +friend to many. Lester & Gibbs, the colored grocers, Yates Street, +between Wharf and Government Streets; Adolph Sutro & Co., wholesale +cigars and tobacco, corner Wharf and Yates Streets; A. Blackman, +stoves and tinware, Yates Street, near Wharf; N. Munroe & Co., +Yates Street, opposite Stationers' Hall, dry goods and clothing; +Pioneer Mineral Water Works, Humboldt Street, south side; Phillips +& Co.; E. Mallandaine, architect, Broad Street, near Yates; +Macdonald & Co., bankers, Yates Street. Of this bank I have a lively +recollection, as its career came to an end suddenly by the discovery +being made one morning that the bank had been robbed, and exit made +through the roof. I have $36 of their notes to remember it by. +W. F. Herre, News Depot, Yates Street, between Wharf and Government +Streets; W. H. Oliver, Johnson Street, opposite Wharf Street, +wholesale dealer in liquors (situated over the ravine); C. J. Pidwell +& Co., furniture dealers, Yates Street; Wells, Fargo & Co., Express +and Exchange Co.; C. C. Pendergast, accountant, Yates Street, between +Wharf and Government Streets; G. Huston, gunsmith, Yates Street, +below Wells, Fargo & Co.; Langley Bros., wholesale and retail +druggists, Yates Street; J. D. Carroll, wines and liquors, wholesale, +Yates Street; Reid & Macdonald, commission merchants, Wharf Street; +Wm. Burlington Smith, groceries, Government Street, near Yates; +Selim, Franklin & Co., auctioneers and land agents, Yates Street. I +think all these names will be familiar to some of the early pioneers, +as they are to me. + +Public Departments of Vancouver Island for 1860. + +Governor--James Douglas, C.B. + +Legislative Council--His Excellency the Governor, Hon. John Work, +Hon. Roderick Finlayson, Hon. David Cameron, judge; Hon. Donald +Fraser, clerk; Rev. Edward Cridge. + +House of Assembly--Members for Esquimalt--J. S. Helmcken, M.D., +Speaker; Capt. Cooper, harbor master, and Capt. J. Gordon. Members +for Victoria District--W. F. Tolmie, M.D.; A. D. Waddington, H. P. P. +Crease, barrister; G. H. Carey, Attorney-General, B.C., and +Selim Franklin. Saanich--C. Coles. Nanaimo--A. R. Green. Lake +District--Major Foster. Salt Spring--J. J. Southgate. Metchosin--J. +McDonald. + +Ecclesiastical--Right Rev. George Hills, Bishop of British Columbia; +Rev. Edward Cridge, Victoria; Rev. R. Dundas, Esquimalt; Rev. R. +Dawson, Craigflower. + +Judicial--Hon. David Cameron, Judge Supreme Court; Attorney-General, +Geo. H. Carey; Sheriff, G. W. Heaton. + +Colonial Secretary's Office--W. A. G. Young, R. N., colonial +secretary; clerks, Philip Nind, Joseph Porter. + +Treasury--Capt. W. D. Gossett, R.E., treasurer. + +Lands and Works--J. D. Pemberton, colonial surveyor; surveyors and +draughtsmen, B. W. Pearse, H. O. Tedieman. + +Police--A. F. Pemberton, J. P., commissioner police; superintendent, +Jno. Bayley, four sergeants and twelve constables. + +Postmaster, Victoria, J. D. Ewes; clerk, J. Morrison. + +Harbor Master--J. Nagle, J.P. + +Postage--To Australia, via England, 48c.; to France, 50c. To Great +Britain, 34c.; Germany, 40c. + +It will be seen that the postage was high and letters a great luxury, +and I have only mentioned the four principal countries we have an +interest in; also I would call attention to the number of police +constables required in those early days, there being a total of +seventeen. + +I have thought it might be interesting to the few remaining pioneers +of 1862 to revive an interest in events of fifty years ago. I often +wonder whether our old pioneers think of the days that are gone +like I do, recall events and persons, take notice of the removal of +old landmarks, such as the James Bay bridge and Sceeley's "Australian +House," at the north end of it, not forgetting the old pioneers who +have passed away recently, among whom were Simeon Duck, Jacob Sehl, +Thomas Storey, Wm. P. Sayward, Capt. Lewis, Isadore Braverman, Edward +Mallandaine and Jeremiah Griffiths. There is a certain amount of +pleasure in these reminiscences, melancholy though it may be to those +concerned. I shall now quote from the editor's preface of the +directory of 1863 on the progress of the city: + +"At no time since the excitement attending its first settlement in +1858 has Victoria made greater strides, or her prosperity so +materially increased, as during the past year. Since the commencement +of last year her population has at least doubled, and the increase of +buildings and improvements has been almost in proportion. During the +winter season the town is thronged with strangers from British +Columbia and elsewhere, who migrate in the spring. Apart from that +the number of the inhabitants may be set down at 6,000. Victoria +contains about 1,500 buildings, some of them very creditable to the +size of the city, among them the Government offices and the jail. +There are several commodious brick hotels, the principal being the +St. Nicholas, the St. George and the Royal. The city is adorned with +five churches, two belonging to the Church of England, one Roman +Catholic, one Wesleyan and one Congregational. A Jewish synagogue and +a Presbyterian church (Pandora Street) are in course of construction. +There are also a theatre (Theatre Royal, Government Street) and a +hospital, the latter being supported by voluntary contributions. + +"The sittings of the Legislature and law courts of Vancouver Island +are held in the city. There are two joint stock banks (British North +America and British Columbia), and three private banking houses. +Until lately Victoria was without a corporation; during the past year +(1862) an act to incorporate the town was passed by the Legislature. +The authorities consisted of a mayor and six councillors. Effective +and speedy measures will now be adopted to complete the grading of +the streets and laying down sidewalks. The water frontage of the town +has since the removal of the old bridge (from foot of Johnson Street +to Indian reserve) been greatly extended, and several wharves are now +available for shipping above the point where that obstacle to +navigation existed. A company has been formed to build a railway +connecting Victoria with the capacious harbor of Esquimalt. Among +other institutions the town may now boast of its gas works. A company +has also been organized to supply the town with water from Elk Lake, +eight miles distant. The value of real estate in the city has +increased in many places over 75 per cent. during the last nine +months. The city is a 'free port,' and therefore not troubled with +custom duties. Vessels drawing fifteen feet of water may cross the +bar of the harbor at high water, and a sum of 10,000 pounds has been +voted by the Legislature to the improvement of the harbor. Steam +communication is carried on three times a month between Victoria and +San Francisco, every alternate trip being made via Portland. A +surprising impetus has been given to agriculture by the number of +newly-arrived immigrants, who have settled in the most fertile +districts around Victoria. + +"With land at four shillings an acre, and time allowed for payments, +together with the improved state of communication between +Victoria and the back settlements, we may hope that the inhabitants +of the town will not in future be so dependent on neighboring +countries for their supplies of produce." + +Official List for Vancouver Island. + + James Douglas, C.B., Governor. + W. A. G. Young, Colonial Secretary. + Joseph Porter, Chief Clerk. + George H. Carey, Attorney-General. + A. Hensley, Clerk. + Alex. Watson, Treasurer. + Jos. Despard Pemberton, Surveyor-General. + W. B. Pearse, Assistant. + Robert Ker, Auditor (father of D. R. Ker). + Thos. E. Holmes, Clerk. + Edward G. Alston, Registrar-General of Deeds. + Charles G. Wylly, Assessor (still with us). + Henry Wootton, Postmaster (father of Stephen and E. E. Wootton). + J. M. Sparrow, Clerk (still with us). + +The Legislature. + + Hon. Rodk. Finlayson, Hon. Donald Fraser, Hon. David Cameron, + Hon. Alfred J. Langley, Edw. G. Alston and Hon. Alex Watson, + nominative. + J. S. Helmcken, G. H. Carey and Selim Franklin, Victoria City. + Wm. Cocker, Esquimalt. + W. F. Tolmie, M.D., J. W. Trutch, and Jas. Trimble, M.D., + Victoria District. + Geo. F. Foster and W. J. Macdonald, Lake District. + J. J. Southgate, Salt Spring Island. + D. B. Ring, Nanaimo. + John Coles, Saanich. + Robert Burnaby, Esquimalt. + +Victoria Fire Department. + + John Dickson, Chief Engineer. + John Malovanski, Assistant Engineer. + Chas. Gowen, President Board Delegates. + Jas. S. Drummond, Secretary Board Delegates. + +ORGANIZATION OF COMPANIES. + + Union Hook and Ladder, November 22nd, 1859, D. A. Edgar, Foreman. + Deluge Engine, No. 1, March 5th, 1860. Jas. S. Drummond, Foreman. + Tiger Engine No. 2, March 23rd, 1860. Samuel L. Kelly, Foreman. + +Note.--Of these pioneer firemen of Victoria of this date, Sam Kelly +is (1910) the only surviving member of the executive. + +H. M. S. Ships of the Pacific Station. + + Rear-Admiral, Sir Thomas Maitland. + +_Bacchante_, 51 guns; _Chameleon_, 17 guns; _Charybdis_, 17 guns; +_Clio_, 22 guns; _Devastation_, 6 guns; _Forward_, 3 guns; +_Grappler_, 3 guns; _Hecate_, 6 guns; _Mutine_, 16 guns; _Naiad_, +6 guns; _Nereus_, 6 guns; _Tartar_, 20 guns; _Termagant_, 25 guns; +_Topaz_, 51 guns; _Tribune_, 23 guns; _Sutlej_, 51 guns. + +Note.--One-third of these were on southern station. --Ex. + +Consuls at Victoria. + + France, P. Mene, Esq. + United States, Allen Frances, Esq. + Sandwich Islands, Henry Rhodes, Esq. (father of Chas. Rhodes). + +Municipal. + + Thomas Harris, first mayor of Victoria. + John Copeland, James M. Reid, Richard Lewis, William M. Searby, + Michael Stronach and Nathaniel M. Hicks, first councillors + of Victoria. + Algernon Austen, Town Clerk. J. C. Colquhoun, City Inspector. + +Educational. + + Henry Claypole, Master at Craigflower. + William H. Burr (my old master), Master at Victoria. + Cornelius Bryant, Master at Nanaimo. Salary 150 pounds and fees. + +Police Department. + + A. F. Pemberton, Commissioner. + Horace Smith, Superintendent. + Preston Bennett, Storekeeper and Clerk. + George Blake, Sergeant Police, with eleven constables, including + Francis Page. + Steph. Redgrave, Cook and Steward. + George Newcombe, Jailer. + D. B. Reid, Assistant Jailer. + Edward Truran, Superintendent of Convicts. + +[Illustration: Group of early legislators.] + +It was customary for the "chain gang" to emerge every morning from a +side gate of the jail yard on Bastion Street and march to Government +Street to the music of their chains, with two guards in the rear with +loaded shotguns. The gang often contained seamen from the ships at +Esquimalt who were serving sentences, usually for desertion. This in +course of time caused such indignation that the practice of putting +men-of-warsmen in the chain gang was discontinued. The gang worked on +the streets, on the Government ground and at other Government work. +The uniform consisted of moleskin trousers with V.P., a checked +cotton shirt and a blue cloth cap. It was thought a wrong to put a +Jack Tar with malefactors of all grades, such as Indian murderers, +thieves and whiskey sellers to Indians. It was the custom when a fire +of any dimensions took place to telephone or send word to Esquimalt, +and squads of Jacks were soon on the way to town, running all the +way. After working maybe all night in saving property they would walk +back to their ship, tired out and wet through, and all for nothing in +the way of recompense. All the time they were at work they sang and +joked as they do now. Is it any wonder that we have a soft place in +our hearts for Jack? I know I shall not forget them and the days that +have gone by, and I think we all shall regret the late change that +takes him away, and his merry laugh and joke are things of the past. + +To return to the directory. Of those remaining whose names are +recorded, there are, alas! only sixty-two to-day with us. I have been +carefully over the list from A to Z and sixty-two is the number. Of +course there may be others that I did not know, and doubtless there +are some; there are omissions also, I am sure, and several I have +added to make up the sixty-two. There is one thing sure, that as a +rule only the head of a family was recorded, male or female, as there +are many residents to-day who were young men or youths, or young +women or girls, when this directory was compiled. I shall give here +the names of these sixty-two who are still privileged to be residents +of this beautiful city that we old residents are so proud of, as well +as those of two living abroad and one in Kamloops. + +The list alphabetically is: + + Adams, Daniel F., contractor. + Anderson, E. H., variety store. + Alport, Charles (in South Africa). + Anderson, J. R., agricultural department. + Barnett, Josiah, in United States. + Barnswell, James, carpenter. + Bauman, Frederick, confectioner. + Beaven, Hon. Robert. + Botterell, Mat., butcher. + Blaguiere, Edward. + Bullen, Jonathan, bricklayer. + Boscowitz, Joseph, fur dealer. + Borde, August, Chatham Street. + Burnes, Thomas, saloonkeeper. + Carey, Joseph W. + Cridge, Edward, rector Christ Church. + Crowther, John C., painter. + Davie, Doctor John C. + Dougall, John, iron moulder. + Drake, M. W. T., solicitor. + Elliott, W. A., engineer _Labouchere_. + Fawcett, R. W., house decorator. + Gerow, G. C., carriagemaker. + Helmcken, Honorable John S., M.P.P. + Geiger, Thomali, bliber. + Gilmore, Alexander, clothier. + Glide, Harry, with Plaskett & Co. + Harvey, Rout., commission merchant. + Higgins, David W., publisher _Chronicle_. + Kelly, Samuel, tinsmith. + Kent, Charles, hardware, K. & F. + King, J. H., Mousquetaire saloon. + Kinsman, John, contractor. + Levy, H. E., special officer. + Levy, Joseph, fruit store. + Lissett, James, painter. + Macdonald, W. J., Reid & Macdonald. + Maynard, Richard, bootmaker. + Marvin, Edward B., sailmaker. + McMillan, J. E., publisher _Chronicle_. + Monro, Alexander, accountant Hudson's Bay Company. + Nuttall, Thomas C., book-keeper. + Pearson, Edward, tinsmith. + Porter, Arthur, brickmaker. + Powell, Doctor I. W. + Richardson, George, proprietor of first brick hotel. + Roper, S., Kamloops. + Styles, S. T., plasterer. + Shotbolt, Thomas, druggist. + Stockham, F., baker. + Sparrow, J. M., post office. + Stewart, John, plumber. + Sylvester, Frank. + Turner, John H. (Todd & Turner), Victoria Produce Market. + Vowell, Arthur, Indian superintendent. + White, Edward (late Brown & White). + Wilson, Alexander, messenger, Bank British North America. + Wilson, William, draper. + Wilson, Thomas Sidney, cabinetmaker. + Wriglesworth, Joseph, London Hotel. + Wylly, C. G., accountant. + Welch, George, Esquimalt Waterworks. + +Many of these since died. + +List of those deceased, but whose descendants are residents here now, +or living elsewhere: + + Barron, David F., cabinetmaker, widow, son and two daughters. + Belasco, Abraham, tobacconist, two sons. + Broderick, R., coal dealer, widow and two sons. + Cameron, Thomas, blacksmith, two daughters and sons. + Chadwick, Thomas, hotelkeeper, two sons and daughter. + Courtney, H. E., solicitor, sons. + Cotsford, Thomas, sons. + Davies, J. P., auctioneer, several sons. + Doan, J. H., captain, daughter. + Duck, Simeon, carriagemaker, sons. + Ella, Captain H. B., Hudson's Bay Company, all family, two sons and + two daughters living in Victoria. + Flett, John, Hudson's Bay Company, several sons. + Gowen, Charles, brewer, widow, several sons and daughters. + Hall, Richard, agent, two sons--Richard and John. + Hall, Philip, several sons. + Harris, Thomas, mayor, two daughters. + Heal, John, boarding-house, two sons. + Heathorn, William, bootmaker, three sons and three daughters. + Heisterman, H., Exchange reading room, sons and daughters. + Heywood, Joseph, butcher, wife and daughter. + Hibben, Thomas Napier, widow, two sons and two daughters. + Huston, Guy, gunsmith, two daughters. + Irving, William, captain steamer _Reliance_, son and daughters. + Jackson, Doctor William, three sons and daughters. + Jungerman, J. L., watchmaker, daughter (Mrs. Erb). + Jewell, Henry, sons. + Leigh, William, second Town Clerk of Victoria, who held the position + from about 1863, to the time of his death. He was in charge of + Uplands Farm (1859) for the Hudson's Bay Company, and under the + supervision of Mr. J. D. Pemberton, built Victoria District Church, + and as an amateur musician helped at charitable entertainments. Son + in San Francisco, granddaughter in Victoria (Mrs. Simpson). + Leneven, David, merchant, son and daughters. + Lewis, Lewis, clothier, son and daughter. + Lindsay, Daniel, son and daughter. + Loat, Christopher, sons and daughter. + Lowen, Joseph, brewer, widow, sons and daughters. + Lowenberg, L., estate agent, a nephew. + McDonell, R. J., captain, a widow. + Mason, George, brickmaker, a widow. + McKeon, William, hotel, wife, son and daughter. + McLean, Alexander, son. + McQuade, Peter, ship chandler, son and two daughters. + Meldram, John H., two sons. + Moore, M. (Curtis & Moore), widow and two sons. + Mouat, William, captain _Enterprise_, sons and daughters. + Nesbitt, Samuel, biscuit-baker, two sons. + Nicholles, Doctor John, one son. + Pitts, John H., son and daughters. + Rhodes, Henry, merchant, sons and daughters. + Sayward, William, sons. + Sehl, Jacob, sons and daughters. + Short, Henry, sons and daughters. + Smith, John, carpenter, Mears Street, sons and daughters. + Smith, M. R., baker, sons and daughters. + Stahlschmidt, Thomas L., son. + Stemmler, Louis, upholsterer, son (spice mills). + Thain, Captain John, son and daughter. + Todd, J. H., sons and daughters. + Tolmie, Doctor W. F., sons and daughters. + Waitt, M. W., stationer, widow and two daughters. + Williams, John W., livery stable, widow and daughters. + Woods, Richard, Government clerk, sons and daughters. + Wootton, Henry, postmaster, sons and daughters. + Workman, Aaron, daughters. + Yates, James Stewart, two sons. + +Many deaths since this list was made. + +I must again repeat that this list of sixty-two may be augmented by +others who were heads of families even at that time. I might take our +own family for an example, although it does not prove the rule. It +consisted of my father, mother and three brothers, and is represented +in the directory by my father, Thomas L. Fawcett, and my eldest +brother, Rowland W. Then, again, there is the Elford family, of +father, mother, three sons and two daughters. This family is not +recorded, and to-day there are two sons, John and Theophilus, and two +married sisters. + +Among the names in the list of those living now, but not recorded, is +a son of Abraham Belasco, tobacconist of Yates Street in 1862, by +name David. Those interested in theatricals (and who is not?) will +recognize the name as the prominent theatrical manager of New York. I +little thought when going to school with him at the Collegiate +School, under Rev. C. T. Woods, that he would be so well known a +character as he is to-day. In closing this reminiscence I would ask +to be pardoned for any errors or omissions, for my memory will bear +refreshing. I also must thank my old friend Dick Hall, and others, +for names of early pioneers who have been left out of the directory. + +Before closing this imperfect sketch allow me to offer a suggestion +to the mayor and aldermen. It is that a portrait of Thomas Harris, +the first mayor of the city, should be procured and hung in a +prominent place in the council chamber, and this at the public +expense. I think this would at least meet with the approval of the +pioneers of 1862, when Mr. Harris was elected first mayor. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +SOME RECOLLECTIONS OF VICTORIA BY ONE WHO WAS THERE IN THE SIXTIES. + + +On Wharf Street, from the corner of Fort, looking north to the corner +of Yates, the buildings looked pretty much the same as now, being all +built of brick, with the exception of the wooden one to the south of +Sutro's wholesale tobacco warehouse on the corner of Yates and Wharf. +This wooden building was a saloon, kept by one who formerly had been +a prominent man politically, that is prior to 1859. I think this +building can be identified with the Ship Inn. The two-story brick +block to the south, erected and owned by Senator Macdonald, was +occupied by John Wilkie, one of the earliest of our wholesale +merchants. The next corner was Edgar Marvin's hardware store. Mr. +Marvin and his son Eddie, who came from the States in 1864, will be +well and favorably remembered by old-timers. He resided on Marvin's +Hill, at the back of St. Ann's Convent. Next comes the building +occupied by Henry Nathan, who was afterwards one of the early members +in the Commons to represent Victoria City. He was an English Hebrew, +and he and his father were prominent men and large property-holders +in the city, and I have no doubt are so still. He is standing in the +front of his office in the photo. I can well remember the day that +Henry Nathan and the balance of the Victoria contingent left for +Ottawa for the first time. They left on the steamer _Prince Alfred_ +from Broderick's Wharf, in the inner harbor, and there was hardly a +square foot of room on the wharf to spare, the crowd was so great. In +fact, half of the town went to see them off, many locking up their +business places to do so. In the front of the next store may be seen +Thomas Lett Stahlschmidt, who represented the English wholesale +firm of Henderson & Burnaby. Next to Mr. Stahlschmidt is James D. +Robinson, who was bookkeeper for J. Robertson Stewart & Co., and who +is a resident of this city to-day, just died. Skipping the next two +buildings, we come to the auction rooms of a well-remembered business +man, P. M. Backus, one of the two prominent auctioneers of that time; +the other being James A. McCrea, spoken of by my friend, Mr. Higgins, +in one of his intensely interesting stories of early days in +Victoria. Both he and Mr. Backus were Americans, as were so many of +our business men of that day. Next Mr. Backus is Mr. J. R. Stewart, +just mentioned, and on the corner is Mr. Joseph Boscowitz. They +stand in front of the building occupied by Thomas C. Nuttall & Co. +Mr. Nuttall I remember as the agent of the Phoenix Fire Insurance +Company, and he did a large business in the city. Mr. Nuttall is +still a resident, although confined to the house through illness. +His was a familiar face on the street in those days, being a very +energetic business man. (Since died). + +[Illustration: Wharf St., Northward.] + +Upstairs in the building was the Oddfellows' Hall, where I was +initiated into the mysteries of Oddfellow-ship in 1868. Among the +prominent brothers present that evening were John Weiler, James S. +Drummond, James D. Robinson, Hinton Guild, James Gillon (manager Bank +of British North America), Joshua Davies, Judah P. Davies, Richard +Roberts, Joseph York, and Thomas Golden. All these prominent +Oddfellows, with the exception of James D. Robinson and Joseph York, +have gone to their rest. The waterfront side of Wharf Street, from +the Hudson's Bay Company's store south, is a blank until you reach +the old cooperage, next to the late custom house. There is an +historic oak tree alongside the cooperage, which is said to have been +used to tie up the Hudson's Bay Company's vessels in the earliest +times when wharves were few and far between. Beyond the old customs +house was Sayward's wharf and lumber yard, the lumber being brought +by schooner and scow from the mill to Victoria. The business had not +then attained the proportions that it has to-day under Joseph +Sayward, son of the founder of the business, who now lives in San +Francisco. + +The next view represents Government Street, east side, from the Brown +Jug north to the St. Nicholas Building. The first building south from +there of any prominence was that now occupied by the British Columbia +Market, and then known as the Alhambra Building. The upper floor was +used as a public hall, and many grand balls were given here, as well +as other social events. The lower floor was used as Zelner's +pharmacy, and next door by Gilmore, the clothier. Alongside and using +the upper portion of Gilmore's Building also, is the Colonial Hotel, +one of the swell places of that day. I next recognize the store of +the well-known firm of W. & J. Wilson, clothiers and outfitters, +which was then conducted by the father and uncle of the present +proprietor, Mr. Joseph Wilson. With the exception of the Hudson's Bay +Company, Hibben & Co. (then Hibben & Carswell) and Thomas Wilson, the +draper, the firm of W. & J. Wilson is, so far as I can remember, the +longest established in Victoria. I can remember being fitted +out there on occasions as a school-boy. Their advertisement in the +_Colonist_, with their autograph underneath, occupied part of the +front page of the paper continuously for years. + +[Illustration: Government St., Northward.] + +The two-story wooden building in the middle of the block, between +Trounce Alley and Fort Street, is the Hotel de France, kept by P. +Manciet, and one of the two principal hotels of that day. Next was +McNiff's grotto, Mon's Laundry, The Star and Garter, Thomas Wilson & +Co., drapers, and farther on the two-story brick building, now Hibben +& Co., and farther on south J. H. Turner & Co. Of course all will +recognize the name as that of the Hon. J. H. Turner. The firm +occupied the whole of the building up and downstairs, as drapers and +carpet warehousemen, and I might state that the late Henry Brown, +Walter Shears, late custom appraiser, and Edward White were on the +staff. Next is one of the two meat markets, owned by Thomas Harris, +the first mayor of Victoria. His prominent figure may be seen on the +sidewalk looking across the street. With my mind's eye I can see him +at the Queen's Birthday celebration on Beacon Hill. The chief event +of the year was the racing on that day, and the mayor was an +enthusiastic horse fancier, and a steward of the Jockey Club. These +celebrations were nothing without Mr. Harris. The bell rings (John +Butts was bellman) and the portly figure of Mr. Harris on horseback +appears. "Now, gentlemen, clear the course," and then there is a +general scattering of people outside the rails; the horses with their +gaily dressed jockeys canter past the grandstand, make several false +starts, and off they go for the mile heat around the hill and back to +the grandstand. Oh, what exciting things those races were! Another +prominent figure at these race meetings was John Howard, of +Esquimalt. The race meetings without Messrs. Harris and Howard would +not have been the genuine thing, and, I must not forget to mention +Millington, who always rode Mr. Harris' horses at these meetings. I +believe he is still in the land of the living. I would we had such +Queen's weather as we had then. May was equal to July now for warmth, +and with beautiful clear skies, they were days worth remembering. +Everyone went out for the day and the hill was covered with +picnickers. The navy was represented by bluejackets and marines by +the hundreds, bands of music, Aunt Sally and the usual other side +shows. And lastly, I must not forget the music. The flagships of +those days were large three-deckers, line-of-battleships, such as the +_Ganges_ or _Sutlej_, which would make an ordinary flagship +look small. It was understood that the officers, being wealthy men, +subscribed liberally towards a fine band. It was a great treat to +hear the _Ganges'_ full band, as I have heard it in the streets +of Victoria preceding a naval funeral to Quadra Street Cemetery, and +very few I missed. But I have digressed and will proceed to finish +Government Street. The corner building, now torn down to make way for +the Five Sisters' Block, was occupied by William Searby, chemist, who +was my Sunday School teacher. He left Victoria for San Francisco, +and I had the pleasure of renewing his acquaintance years later, +and, I think, he is still in business in Market Street. In the +front of Searby's stands John Weiler, father of the Weiler brothers +of our day. The upper portion of this building was called the +Literary Institute, and the first I remember of Mr. Redfern was +at an entertainment given here for some charity, when he sang that +beautiful tenor song from "The Bohemian Girl," "Then You'll +Remember Me," and it has been a favorite with me ever since. W. K. +Bull, who presided over so many municipal elections, and was a very +well-read man, also took part, giving a reading on Australia, and +ending up with a recitation. + +Crossing the street, we come to the Brown Jug, the same to-day as +then, but kept by Tommy Golden, a well-known character then. In the +front is a hydrant with a water-cart getting its load for +distribution through the city. The water was conveyed in wooden pipes +from Spring Ridge and sold by the bucket, which may be seen on the +shafts of the cart. Forty of these buckets represented one dollar. +Opposite the Brown Jug and across the street is a vacant lot, now +occupied by the Bank of Commerce. The opposite corner to this is also +vacant, but soon after was built the present brick building by J. J. +Southgate and Captain Lascelles, R.N., of the gunboat _Boxer_. + +[Illustration: Fort St., Eastward.] + +This view represents the south side of Fort Street, from the Brown +Jug corner east. The wooden building next is a photograph gallery +owned by Fred. Dally. He with R. Maynard were the only ones in the +business at that time, I think. Next is Dr. Powell's residence and +surgery; the house is not visible, being set back from the street. +Alexander McLean's "Scotch House" clothing store is plainly seen. +Amongst those standing in front are Mr. McLean, the proprietor; James +Fell, who later on was mayor; William McNiffe, of the "Grotto," and +Thomas Harris, already mentioned, who is on horseback. Above McLean's +is Murray's Scotch bakery, where I have gone often for bread and +shortcake. Four doors above is A. & W. Wilson's, plumbers and gas +fitters, and Tom Wilson may be seen standing on the sidewalk--he +is the only one of the brothers not here to-day. Next is Birmingham +House, Kent & Evans, Charles Kent, the city treasurer, being senior +partner. Across Broad Street is John Weiler's upholstery store. Then +comes James Fell & Co., grocers; then M. R. Smith & Co., bakers. +Above Douglas Street there were few or no stores. On the upper corner +was D. Babbington Ring, an English barrister, who always walked about +with a dog-whip in hand and several dogs after him. + +Above the corner lived Dr. Baillie, a cousin of Sir M. B. Begbie, who +was afterwards drowned in South America. We come next to the +Congregational Church, which lived a short life as a church, for Dr. +Ash bought it and turned it into a residence, taking down the +steeple, which may now be seen in the photo. It passed into the hands +of Dr. Meredith Jones after Dr. Ash's death. Above this I remember +little as to individual houses, but know that they were very +scattered. + +[Illustration: Yates St., Eastward.] + +This view represents Yates Street, from the corner of Wharf, south +side. I have briefly mentioned Sutro's tobacco warehouse, and this is +the Yates Street side of it. There was a large figure of a Turk with +a turban and large pipe as a business sign on the corner of the +street. Next to Sutro's is Joseph Boscowitz's, the pioneer dealer in +furs, and as may be seen he is not now far from his former place of +business. Next door is the firm of Wolf & Morris, that I cannot now +remember. The saloon next door was kept by Burns & Dwyer--the latter, +I think, still lives on Pandora Street. Next door but one is William +Dalby's saddlery shop, and he is with us to-day. Guy Huston, the +gunsmith, occupied the next store. He was the principal gunsmith in +the city, and his two daughters, both married to prominent men +of business, are still residents of the city. Alfred Fellows, iron +and hardware merchant, who comes next, was the founder of the +business of E. G. Prior & Company. The Fashion Hotel was kept by John +C. Keenan, an American, and was a first-class gambling house and +dancing hall. High play was the order, and many a Cariboo miner in +the winter months threw away his easily-got gold by the hundreds +here. Keenan was a prominent fire chief in those days of volunteer +firemen. Wells Fargo's Express comes next, presided over by Colonel +Pendergast and Major Gillingham. On the arrival of a San Francisco +steamer there was a rush to Wells Fargo's for letters, and soon after +the receipt of the express bags at the office the place would be full +to the doors. I might state that it was the custom then for all mail +steamers to fire a gun on arrival, either at the mouth of the harbor +or inside the harbor itself, so that we gathered at the post-office +and express office soon after. Either Colonel Pendergast or Major +Gillingham then mounted a chair and called off the addresses, and the +letters were either flipped or passed on to their owners by those +nearest the caller, for it seemed as if everybody knew each other. +Twenty-five cents was the postage paid in advance. Next door is +the telegraph office and Barnard's express. Our old friend, Robert +McMicking, had charge of the telegraph, and maybe the express also, +but I have forgotten. Langley & Co., the well-known druggists, I can +remember ever since I can remember Victoria. The building is pretty +much now as it was then, only larger. Those connected with its early +history have passed away, excepting it may be Mr. Pimbury; Mr. A. J. +Langley, who died in late years; Mr. Jones, who went into business in +Cariboo and died there, and Mr. Pimbury, who went to Nanaimo +and into business for himself. Between Langley's and the corner +of Langley Street, was Jay & Bales' seed store. Both these early +pioneers have gone to their rest, although the business is still +carried on on Broad Street by Mr. Savory. + +On the corner is the Fardon building, which in 1859 was occupied by +Hibben & Carswell, the beginning of the firm of T. N. Hibben & Co. +Mr. Hibben, Mr. Carswell and Mr. Kammerer, the principals, have all +gone to their rest, but the firm still lives and nourishes. An +incident connected with the junior partner might here be recalled. +One summer day Mr. Carswell, if I remember right, was one of a picnic +party, who got lost in the woods near Muir's farm 30 miles from town, +and the balance of the party returning to town without him, a search +party was organized and a reward offered by Mr. Hibben for his +partner's return. They left next morning, and after a long and strict +search, as the party was returning to town to report their want of +success, whom should they see ahead of them but the lost James +Carswell, trudging along on the highroad to town. He was told that +they were a search party sent out to look for him, and that they were +glad they found him. "Found me!" said Mr. Carswell; "why, I am on my +way home!" and they then proceeded to town together. When the party +reached home Mr. Carswell was told that Mr. Hibben had sent the +searchers, and had offered a reward for his finding. This Mr. +Carswell objected to pay, protesting that they had not found him, but +that he had found himself, and was on his way home when they met him. +It caused a great deal of merriment, and was a standing joke for some +time. An incident like this would be the talk of the town in +those good old days, and many visits would be paid to Campbell's +corner, kept by John Molowanski, a Russian, to hear if any news had +been received of the lost Mr. Carswell. + +The first time I remember going to Hibben & Carswell's was in 1860, +when I went to exchange a prize book I had won at school, and which +was imperfectly bound, having several pages out of place. It was then +I first saw Mr. Kammerer, and he informed me afterwards that he had +just then been promoted from porter to assist in the office, and from +this dated his rise in the firm to a partnership. Upstairs in this +building was the Masonic hall and Fardon's photographic studio. +Across the street are Moore & Co., druggists, an old established +business of 1859 or '60, the present proprietor's father being the +founder of the business. The Bank of British North America next door +is, so far as I can remember, the pioneer bank in Victoria. I +assisted in the assaying department for a short time in 1867. The +next building is the famed Campbell's corner (the Adelphi). Who among +our pioneers does not remember the genial face of Frank Campbell, his +corner and all the associations connected with it? When was Frank not +at the corner? I should say only when he was eating and sleeping. +Morning, noon and until 11 o'clock at night he was on duty. All the +births, deaths and marriages were recorded on his intelligence +board. All the news of the day, events from abroad and at home--all +were recorded by Frank. There never lived a better-tempered or +so good-hearted a fellow. Before going home after a lodge or a +political meeting the last thing was to call at the "corner" for +the latest bit of news. It was the meeting-place of many who made +it their headquarters. Evening after evening for years Frank +had his audience. Everyone knew him and to know him was to like +him--"_requiescat in pace_." Across Government Street and next to +Zelner's drug store I see the sign of J. S. Drummond, stoves and +tinware. He was a grand master of Oddfellows, a prominent Mason, a +fire chief, an officer of militia, and served a term in the city +council. Beyond Drummond's I cannot make out any more signs or +buildings, even with the magnifying glass, and I have looked long +and hard until my eyes ache. A deal might be written of many more +of the old streets and their inhabitants, but it might be undertaken +by someone else with a better memory, and who was older and took a +prominent part in affairs of that day. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +A LITTLE MORE STREET HISTORY. + + +I have before me an old photo, showing the corner of Government and +Yates Streets, as also Yates Street to Wharf Street. It is so faded +it is difficult to make out anything very distinctly. All the +buildings look as if built of wood. We know there were three brick +buildings then, which have been written of in my last article on "The +First Victoria Directory." So I will here only mention the corner +building, afterwards known as the Adelphi. Up to 1860 the treasury +and other public offices did business in and about this corner; the +whole block, Mr. Higgins states, was government buildings to the +corner on which stands Moore & Co.'s drug store. It is of the +treasury in 1859 I am going to speak now. The official staff at that +time consisted of Captain Gossett, treasurer; John Cooper, chief +clerk; John Graham, bookkeeper, and E. Evans, clerk. John Graham, of +Simcoe Street, after many years' good work for the government and +people, has retired. Young Evans, who was the only son of Rev. Doctor +Evans, one of the two pioneer clergymen of the Methodist Church at +that time, came to a tragic end while a young man. One day in the +depth of winter, the ground covered with snow, young Evans went out +shooting, and while walking along the beach near Clover Point, shot +at a drove of ducks. Finding that he had shot one, and not being able +to get it any other way, he stripped off his clothes and swam off +for it. This in the month of December was a hazardous undertaking, +and so it proved, for the young fellow took the cramp and was +drowned. It was a very sad sight, so I am told by those who saw it, +the old father walking up and down the beach all night calling for +his son by name. In the morning the son was seen through the clear +cold water lying on the bottom, and the body recovered. I remember +his funeral, and to-day may be seen the granite shaft that marks his +resting-place in the south-west corner of the Quadra Street Cemetery. +In 1860 the staff of the treasury was sent to New Westminster, where +they remained until 1868, when the union of the island and mainland +took place. Some time subsequent to this removal a lot of vouchers +and valuable papers disappeared from the treasury, having been put +temporarily on top of the big safe. Search was made all over the +premises, and the loss caused Captain Gossett much anxiety up to the +time of their departure. Mr. Graham stayed behind to finish up some +business and see to the removal of the big safe, and during the +removal the mystery of the lost documents was solved by their +being found behind the safe. Some time after removing to New +Westminster, a Mr. Franks, who may be remembered by some as a very +insignificant-looking little man, succeeded Captain Gossett as +treasurer, and through his unpopularity with the staff, John Cooper, +the chief clerk, resigned and went to Australia. Mr. Graham became +chief clerk, and subsequently was appointed "officer in charge of +the treasury." After Confederation he was appointed by the Dominion +Government Assistant Receiver-General. I cannot do better here than +give verbatim Mr. Graham's remarks on the subject: + + "88 Simcoe St., April 20, 1904. + +"Dear Mr. Fawcett:--I send you these few lines to complete my rather +disrupted memory _re_ the Victoria Treasury office. Mr. +Alexander Calder, an ex-R. E. sergeant and a British Government +pensioner, joined in 1860. Robert Ker was also employed for a certain +time as clerk, but was removed to the audit office, and afterwards +became auditor-general. Gordon was appointed treasurer of Vancouver +Island on the exodus of the B. C. officials going to New Westminster; +he did not continue long in the office--the truth is, there was +something the matter with the 'chest,' and he took French leave. Mr. +Watson succeeded him; he was clever but not very popular. In 1867 the +island and mainland were united in one province; the officials at New +Westminster were all sent down to Victoria. At that time I was +'officer in charge of the treasury.' A Savings Bank Act was passed by +the Legislature. I received from the executive council a mandate to +establish the bank, with the head office in Victoria, and four +branches, one each at Nanaimo, New Westminster, Yale and Cariboo. The +bank was under commissioners, Mr. Roscoe and Mr. Langley being +nominated to that office; their services were purely gratuitous. The +head office of the bank was in the Treasury, but to accommodate +working men, an office was opened at Government Street, not very far +from Sehl's furniture store, for, I think, two hours two days in the +week. + +"I do not know if I mentioned the fact that the Dominion virtually +bought out all the depositors in the British Columbia bank. A small +temporary office was opened at the foot of Fort Street, next to what +was Mitchell & Johnston's feed store, which was in use until the new +Post Office building was built; the savings bank, as you are aware, +is now located in the grand new building at the foot of Government +Street. If it would not be considered far-fetched I would like to +send you a word or two on the origin of savings banks. The first +ideas of thrift were promulgated by Daniel Defoe in 1697; it was a +happy Socialistic discovery. In 1797 Jeremy Bentham taught the +principles of thrift. In 1799 the first savings bank was started at +Windover in Buckinghamshire, by the Rev. Joseph Smith. The Rev. Dr. +Henry Duncan opened in Ruthwell, Dumfrieshire, the first savings bank +in Scotland in 1810. Thrift is the keystone that supports the arch +of the savings bank. The stormy petrel riding in safety on the crest +of the wave in instinctive security, symbolizes the security of a +depositor in a government savings bank. I do not know that I can say +any more at present. + + "John Graham." + +[Illustration: Theatre Royal on Government St.] + +This little photo shows the west side of Government Street, from Fort +to Yates Street, as it appeared in 1863. The corner store was A. +Rickman's grocery, then Jones' Bazaar (toys and fancy goods), then +McNiff's saloon, next Payne's barber shop. Before going on I might, +with Mr. Payne's permission, give a little joke on that gentleman at +the time. The Mechanics' Institute gave an entertainment for, I +think, the benefit of the library, and prizes were offered for the +two best conundrums. The best was at the expense of Mr. Payne's name, +and was "Easy Shaving by Pain" (Payne). I don't think Mr. Payne took +the money. Then Norris & Wylly, notaries public and estate +agents,--Mr. Wylly is still a resident of the city; Messrs. Lush and +Zinkie, milliners; Shakespeare, photographer; Gentile, photographer +(over the theatre), then Theatre Royal. + +The north-west corner of Government and Bastion Streets was the brick +building built by Mayor Harris as a residence, and afterwards turned +into the Bank of British Columbia. Next the bank was the _Daily +Standard_ building, built and owned by Mr. De Cosmos; then T. L. +Fawcett & Co., upholsterers; then T. C. Nuttall, Phoenix insurance; +William Heathorn, bootmaker; next comes the post-office, a single +story frame structure with a wooden awning in front, as were all +stores in those times. Mr. Wootton was postmaster. One of the few +brick buildings on Government Street comes next, built for and +occupied by William Burlington Smith, and containing a public hall +upstairs. It was in this hall that the British Columbia Pioneer +Society was organized on the evening of April 28th, 1871, the writer +being secretary of the meeting. Since died. William P. Sayward, who +resides in San Francisco, and myself are the only two remaining of +those pioneers who met in Smith's Hall that night and formed the +first society of British Columbia Pioneers. Next we have the Adelphi +saloon, on the site of the Government offices of 1860. This is as far +as the photo shows, and so I must close. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +THE VICTORIA GAZETTE, 1858. + + +Through the kindness of a "fifty-eighter" I am enabled to give my +readers, especially the old-timers, some extracts from this, the +pioneer newspaper of Victoria, if not of British Columbia. To me, +although only a "fifty-niner," and at the time a juvenile, these +extracts are very interesting, for I remember nearly all the +personages mentioned, and it is the incidents that these names are +connected with that I mention. The editors announce in this, the +first number, that they at first intended to name their paper The +_Anglo-American_, but on second thought changed it to the +_Victoria Gazette_, as more appropriate. The editors and +proprietors were Williston & Bartlett, and the paper was a +semi-weekly. To show the primitive and makeshift nature of things in +early Victoria I will quote the first local item: "It is cheering to +note the increase in frame and canvas buildings that are springing +up." + +Mr. Thomas Harris, of the Queen's market, is the first to open a +butcher shop in the Island. + +The arrival of the first batch of Chinese by the steamer +_Oregon_. The sign of the first to go into business appears as +"Chang Tsoo," washing and ironing. + +The beautiful view of the Olympic range covered with snow, as seen +from Government Street, is commented on as a sight worth seeing. + +Another item informs its readers that twenty vessels were advertised +in San Francisco as on the berth for Victoria. + +A most important announcement is that up to the present time there +were no taxes levied in Victoria, except as liquor licenses. To sell +retail the privilege cost $600 per annum, and for a wholesale license +100 pounds or $485. + +In nearly every number there is a cry of "No water; who will dig the +first artesian well? In case there should be a fire how was it to be +put out?" Then a suggestion of a public meeting to consider the +important question, and a petition to Governor Douglas to have large +tanks erected at the foot of Johnson Street, near the bridge, and to +have salt water pumped up. Then a fire engine is asked for. In fact +Governor Douglas seems to have been appealed to for everything they +wanted, and in this instance he seems to have been the right man to +appeal to, as will be seen later. + +In a later edition is the announcement of the arrival of the steamer +_Oregon_ from San Francisco with mail, express and 1,900 +passengers. + +Alex. C. Anderson is appointed collector of customs by Governor +Douglas. + +The Governor has ordered two fire engines from San Francisco, and +still the cry is "Water! water!" "Dig wells, citizens, we must have a +supply." The editor seems to have water on the brain. It is suggested +that there be an ordinance compelling people to have so many buckets +of water alongside each tent. + +The council have ordered the removal of all bodies from the cemetery +on Johnson and Douglas Streets to the new cemetery on Quadra Street. + +July 7th.--Complaints are made that a fence obstructs View +Street, so that pedestrians have to go along Broad to Yates or Fort, +and down these streets to reach Government. This obstruction does +not seem to have been removed permanently, for Hibben & Co.'s store +occupies this lot, and before the brick one was erected there was +a large wooden building then owned by J. J. Southgate. That it was +not intended that View Street should end at Broad is evident, as +Bastion Street was then known as View Street, being so-called in +Mallandaine's first directory in 1860. + +Another petition to Governor Douglas. This one by the local clergy to +have a branch of the Y. M. C. A. instituted in Victoria. + +The steamers _Orizaba_ and _Cortez_ have arrived with the +large number of 2,800 passengers. + +Proceedings of the House of Assembly.--Present: J. D. Pemberton, +James Yates, J. Kennedy, J. W. McKay, T. J. Skinner and Speaker +Helmcken. The latter gentleman asked to be relieved of the +Speakership for reasons he has already stated. After a discussion on +the subject it was decided that the Speaker be not allowed to retire, +and the honorable gentleman continued to act. + +The paper complains that the P. M. S. Co.'s steamers have lately +dumped Victoria passengers at Esquimalt and carried the freight to +Bellingham Bay, and after unloading Bellingham Bay freight have come +back to Esquimalt with the Victoria freight. In consequence of this +arrangements were to be made so that the steamers land the Victoria +freight in our harbor. + +The Freemasons are invited to meet at Southgate's new store on Monday +evening, July 12th, at 7 o'clock, to consider important matters +connected with the organization of the order. + +Three thousand five hundred mining licenses have so far been granted. + +In a cutting from a European paper there is an item to the effect +that it was generally understood that the Queen's family name was +Guelph, but that such was not the case, as that was the name of a +religious faction of which the Elector of Hanover was the head, but +that the real name of the family was "D'este." + +Wells, Fargo & Co. will soon open a bank. + +Collector Anderson notifies the public that all necessary provisions +for miners for personal use may be taken up the Fraser River free. + +It is announced that Rev. E. Cridge holds service every Sunday +afternoon on Wharf Street, opposite the Fort gate. + +In consequence of the reduction in the price of lumber to $50 per +1,000 feet, houses are springing up everywhere. + +Governor Douglas has appointed Mr. Augustus Pemberton commissioner of +police. + +Theatricals are held in a mammoth tent, as there is so far no +theatre. + +One of the fire engines, named "Telegraph," bought by the Governor, +has arrived from San Francisco, the cost of which is $1,600. + +There has not been a death from natural causes in the city during the +last thirty days. + +The _Gazette_ having received an Adams power press, the paper +will be issued daily in future, and the proprietors look for a +recognition of their enterprise. The rates are $20 per annum or +12-1/2c. per copy. + +The First Brick Building.--This matter may now be considered settled +by this item, which reads: "Our first brick building is about +completed, and is to be opened as a hotel" (referring to the +Victoria.) + +The first steamer to reach Fort Yalo is the _Umatilla_, 21st +July, 1858. + +The streets of Victoria have not yet been sprinkled, and there are +many complaints from shopkeepers as to the damage their goods receive +from dust. Why not use salt water, if fresh cannot be had? + +Roussett is building a wharf at the foot of View Street, and Chas. B. +Young one at the foot of Johnson. The former of these items would be +hard to understand by people of the present day, "at the foot of View +Street." This is, I think, the explanation. As originally laid out +View Street extended from above Cook Street to Wharf Street, and +would to-day were it not that Hibben & Co.'s building or stores stand +in the way. On July 7th, as already mentioned in this article, the +_Gazette_ stated that there was great dissatisfaction at the +fencing of the vacant lot on Broadway (Broad Street), opposite View, +which they stated was used as a "cabbage patch," and there was talk +of pulling the fence down. All the agitation seems to have amounted +to nothing, for not only was the fence not pulled down, but J. J. +Southgate, one of the earliest merchant emigrants, erected a large +wooden building on the street. By referring to the engraving this +building may be seen; later on J. J. Southgate erected the present +brick building. The paper stated later that the Governor had sold the +lot to Southgate, and that settled the matter. + +Sheriff Muir announces by advertisement that anyone found with +firearms on their person would be arrested and punished. + +A salute was fired from the fort bastions on the arrival of +Governor F. McMullen, of Washington Territory, accompanied by +Governor Douglas, who had met the American Governor at Esquimalt, +this being a friendly visit to our Governor. + +In future Sheriff Muir will arrest all gamblers. + +An Indian, convicted of stealing, was tied up in the fort grounds and +received twelve lashes by Sheriff Muir. + +Captain William Brotchie has been appointed harbor master for +Victoria by Governor Douglas. + +An exclusive grant was made by the Legislature to a company to supply +Victoria with water for ten years. + +The fare by steamer from San Francisco to Victoria is $30. + +A fire occurred in the ravine on Johnson Street, which destroyed a +canvas house tent and contents. + +Two fire engines have arrived, and a petition is being signed to the +Governor, praying him to organize a volunteer fire department under +an officer appointed by himself. + +A regular stage now plies between Victoria and the naval station, +leaving Bayley's Hotel, corner Yates and Government Streets +(Pritchard House corner), hourly, the fare being one dollar each way. + +The following gentlemen call a public meeting by advertisement to +organize a volunteer fire department: M. F. Truett, J. J. Southgate, +A. Kaindler, A. H. Guild, Charles Potter, Samuel Knight and J. N. +Thain. This was the initial movement to form the volunteer fire +department which did such good service for thirty years afterwards. + +"July 28th, 1858.--The steamer _Wilson G. Hunt_ left San +Francisco to ply in these waters." Where is she now? and how old is +she? + +At the public meeting called to organize a volunteer fire +department M. F. Truett was called to the chair, E. E. Eyres was +elected secretary, and the following working committee was appointed: +Jas. Yates, Chas. A. Bayley, J. H. Doan, Leopold Lowenberg, Rousett, +Truett and Myers. The Hunneman engine to be known as No. 1 and the +Telegraph as No. 2. The committee were to select one hundred men to +each engine to form the companies. The first meeting of No. 2 company +called, and the notice is signed by H. J. Labatt, W. F. Bartlett, J. +W. Turnbull and David Green. + +Albert H. Guild calls a meeting of all Oddfellows in good standing to +meet on July 5th, at which it was decided that a register of all +Oddfellows should be kept; a weekly meeting was to be held each +Wednesday evening at eight o'clock over Guild & Webb's store, corner +Wharf and Fort Streets; C. Bartlett, secretary. From this meeting of +a few members of this most beneficent order has sprung into existence +forty-two lodges scattered all over the province, with a total +membership of 3,527, and I am afraid that to-day not one of those +faithful few brothers of the mystic three links survives. + +August 4th, 1858.--The first arrival of the steamer _Pacific_ in +Victoria harbor is announced. + +The Public Examination of Craigflower Colonial School +(Midsummer).--In the absence of the Governor, Rev. Edward Cridge +examined the pupils, and prizes were presented to Jessie McKenzie, +Wm. Lidgate, Christine Veitch and Dorothea McKenzie. The prizes were +donated by the Governor. Old-timers will remember these names well. + +Married by Rev. E. Cridge, Wm. Reid to Margaret Work. + +First trip of the steamer _Leviathan_ to Puget Sound, Captain +Titcombe. This leviathan of the deep was so small that she was +hoisted on the deck of a steamer from San Francisco, and so arrived +from that place. + +The paper announces that over one hundred vessels from all parts were +then on the berth for Victoria, and what was to be done to find +wharfage room for so many in Victoria harbor? + +Fire Engine Company No. 1 held its first meeting at the American +Saloon, August 6th, 1858. J. H. Kent was elected president and +Charles R. Nichols secretary. The American Saloon was on Yates +Street, and I think was kept by Thos. Burnes, who for years was a +most enthusiastic fireman. + +An editorial calls for the establishment of a public hospital, a jail +and a deadhouse (the latter seems a strange want, at least an urgent +one). The present jail is too small, and coroner's inquests have to +be held in the open air in front of the jail; the jury stand around +the corpse, some leaning against it, spread on some boards, and the +coroner sits on the top of an empty barrel (very primitive). + +The public examination of Victoria Colonial school (on the site of +Central School). Rev. E. Cridge and the master, Jno. Kennedy, +examined the pupils. Prizes were given to David Work, Wm. Leigh and +James Pottinger. Six months later the writer was a pupil of this +school. + +Birth.--August 12th, 1858, the wife of Wm. A. Mouatt, of a daughter. + +Married.--Same date, Edward Parsons, H. M. S. _Satellite_, to +Emma, eldest daughter of James Thorn. + +Improvements.--Since 12th June there have been two hundred and fifty +brick and wooden houses erected in the city. + +A writer thinks it time that Victoria's streets were named and an +official map made. + +A. Pemberton, commissioner of police, notifies the public that no +more canvas or wood and canvas houses will be allowed, as they are a +public nuisance. + +August 24th, 1858.--The stern wheeler _Enterprise_ has arrived +from Astoria, Capt. Thomas Wright, master. She is to run on the +Fraser River to Langley. + +An open letter to Rev. E. Cridge appears in the _Gazette_ from +an indignant American, who, with his family, had attended Rev. Mr. +Cridge's preachings, and who now feels insulted at the treatment he +received lately by the sexton showing a negro into the same pew +occupied by himself and family, also treating other respectable +Americans in the same way. He further stated that, the day being +warm, the peculiar odor was very objectionable, so that several +Americans left before the service was over. + +A day or two later this is answered by a letter signed M. G. W., who +was a colored grocer of Yates Street (Lester & Gibbs). He was a +clever writer, and handled the gentleman, Mr. Sharpstone, without +gloves, saying some very pertinent as well as impertinent things, +taking especial exception to the reference of Mr. Sharpstone to the +peculiar odor and perspiration. + +Mr. Cridge appears with a letter, throwing oil on the troubled +waters, and the editor thinks enough has been said. + +The arrival of the steamer _Otter_ with news of a massacre of +forty-five miners at Fort Hope by Indians; the news is considered of +doubtful truth. + +There is a project to build a bridge across French Ravine, where +Store Street passes over it. Was this ever done, or was it filled in +instead? Who can answer? + +House of Assembly, Aug. 26th, 1858.--Petition from Nelson & Sons for +exclusive privilege to supply city with water from a spring two miles +to northeast of city, at the rate of 1-1/2 cents per gallon, and a +free supply to the Hudson's Bay Company; also a petition from Hy. +Toomy & Co., to light the town with gas. Mr. Pemberton gave notice of +a resolution to provide for the erection of a bridge at Point Ellice; +also a petition from Edward Stamp to grant him the privilege of +bringing water into Victoria by means of pipes along the streets. + +A Chinaman (one of the first batch to arrive) was found shot dead +with five bullets in his body. He was on his way to a spring to fetch +a bucket of water, and had to pass a camp of miners. Further comment +unnecessary. + +A change of ownership of the _Gazette_ is announced, and Abel +Whitton becomes proprietor. + +A notice appears that all persons requiring seats in Victoria +District Church should apply to J. Farquhar, in the Fort. + +Bayley's Hotel, corner Yates and Government Streets, J. C. Keenan, +proprietor. Board $15 a week. + +A cricket match between H. M. S. _Satellite's_ and Victoria +elevens at Beacon Hill. + +"Tipperary Bill" shoots a man at this cricket match and kills him. He +is still at large. + +September 14th, 1858.--News just arrived of the laying of the +Atlantic cable, and a salute of twenty-one guns to be fired from the +Fort. + +There have been 344 houses erected in Victoria in three months. + +New Map of City Issued.--The first three streets named after the +three Governors--Quadra, Blanchard and Douglas. Secondly, after +distinguished navigators on the coast--Vancouver and Cook. Thirdly, +after the first ships to visit these waters--Discovery, Herald and +Cormorant. Fourthly, after Arctic adventurers--Franklin, Kane, +Bellot and Rae; and fifthly, after Canadian cities, lakes and +rivers--Montreal, Quebec, Toronto, St. Lawrence, Ottawa, Superior +and Ontario. + +[Illustration: Inside Fort from Wharf St.] + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +VICTORIA IN 1859-1860. + + +I have before me an old picture of Victoria as it appeared in 1860. +It is a watercolor sketch, drawn and colored by H. O. Tedieman, C.E., +and artist. For me this picture has a great fascination, because it +reminds me of those days gone by--"those good old days," as an old +friend of those pioneer days remarked to me recently. A prettier +place could not be imagined, with its undulating ground covered with +grass relieved by spreading oaks and towering pines. + +By the aid of this picture and information furnished me by Colonel +Wolfenden and Mr. Harry Glide, I am enabled to give a pen-picture of +the Queen City of the West forty-four years ago. Colonel Wolfenden +says that when he first remembers James Bay he saw a gang of +Indians--it may be one hundred--under "Grizzly" Morris, a contractor, +and superintended by H. O. Tedieman, with pick, shovel and +wheelbarrow making Belleville Street along the water and in front of +the Government building. The sea beach then came up in front of the +large trees on the Government grounds, about eighty or one hundred +feet further inland. All this space was filled or reclaimed from the +sea by the Indians. I might say that Chinese were almost as rare in +those days in Victoria as Turks. Indians performed all manual +labor--in fact were to that day what John Chinaman is to this. James +Bay bridge, which was just built, looks a very frail structure +in this picture, and must have been, as Colonel Wolfenden says, +intended for passenger and light vehicular traffic, there being +nothing to cause heavy traffic over the bay, the only houses of any +moment being the pagoda-like buildings erected in 1859 for the +Government, and replaced by the present palatial buildings, of which +there were five. In addition to these I see the residence of Governor +Douglas and Dr. Helmcken, Captain Mouat and City Clerk Leigh. There +was also a good-sized house on Beckley Farm, corner of Menzies +Street, in charge of John Dutnall and wife. Across Menzies Street +there is the cottage now owned and occupied by Mr. Jesse Cowper, +since dead, which was then occupied by John Tait of the Hudson's Bay +Company's service, and who was an enthusiastic volunteer of the white +blanket uniforms of 1861. + +[Illustration: Government buildings, 1859-60.] + +I see what I think was the residence of W. A. Young, on Superior +Street, who was Colonial Secretary, and whose wife was a daughter of +Chief Justice Cameron. If this is the place I see, it is still +standing, and for years was the residence of the late Andrew J. +Smith. To the right of the Government buildings is an isolated +cottage which I believe is still in the land of the living, being +built of corrugated iron, brought out from England by Captain +Gossett, who in 1859 was colonial treasurer, mention of whom will be +made later on. From Mr. Leigh's residence, which with Captain Mouat's +was on the site of Belleville Street, until you come to St. John +Street, there is a blank. On the corner is the house built and +occupied by Captain Nagle, now occupied by Mr. Redfern, and across +the street another built by James N. Thain and now occupied by Mr. +George Simpson of the customs. From this on to the outer dock I +see three isolated houses, that still remain. The large one was built +and occupied by Mr. Laing of "Laing's Ways," the pioneer shipbuilder; +another by Captain H. McKay, the sealer captain; the third was built +out of the upper works of the wrecked steamer _Major Tomkins_, the +first steamer to run from Olympia to Victoria. She was wrecked off +Macaulay Point in 1856. Mr. Laing bought the upper works and built +this house. Lumber in those days had mostly to be imported from +San Francisco--that is, the wood for fine work. Mr. Muir, of Sooke, +bought the boilers and engines, which he put into a sawmill he built +there, and good service they gave for years. Before the road opposite +the Government grounds, which is now Belleville Street, was reclaimed +from the sea, there was an Indian trail which ran through the woods, +from Laing's Ways, in the direction of town along the water-front, +around the head of the bay to Humboldt Street. I might say that the +plat of ground on which the Government buildings were built in 1859 +was bought from a French-Canadian who came overland from Montreal, +and although in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company for years, +either could not or would not speak a word of English other than +"yes" or "no." He built his house here and lived here until he sold +out to the Government, the house being afterwards used as a +Government tool house. + +[Illustration: First bridge over James Bay.] + +Mr. Harry Glide, from whom I got these particulars, is a pioneer of +1856, and lived near the outer wharf. He married a daughter of Mr. +Laing. He says all James Bay from the bridge to the mouth of the +harbor was covered with pine trees, and all this land, together with +that facing Dallas Road up to Beacon Hill, was called Beckley Farm. +The greater part of all these trees were cut down for Kavaunah, a man +whom many will remember as having a woodyard about where the +James Bay Athletic Association now stands. + +Mr. Glide says that there were quite a lot of Cherokee Indians here +who came from their native land to the coast of British Columbia for +work, and a fine body of men he says they were, most of them over six +feet and strongly built. It does seem strange that they should have +travelled so far from their homes and country. There were also many +Kanakas here, who came on vessels from Honolulu at odd times. They +formed a small colony and located on Kanaka Road, or Humboldt Street, +as it is now called. I can remember them in 1860, one family +attending service at Christ Church regularly. + +The most prominent building in sight is Victoria District Church, as +it stands out in relief on Church Hill. When I first went there as a +boy, it was a most primitive-looking building, with its low steeple +or dovecote (as it looked like). There were two bells in this +steeple, one larger than the other, which sounded ding dong, ding +dong, many a year, until early one morning James Kennedy, an old +friend of mine, as he was going home saw flames issuing from the +roof. + +He gave the alarm, and shortly after the whole town was there, and +the engines with volunteer firemen. Nothing could save it though, as +it was summer-time and very dry, and it was not more than an hour or +two before it had disappeared. The other day I had the pleasure of +meeting one of my schoolfellows of 1859, Ernest A. Leigh, of San +Francisco, a son of the second city clerk of Victoria, and who was +here on a visit to his niece, Mrs. George Simpson (customs). We of +course had a long talk over old times, the days of yore, the days of +'59. In looking over this old picture he exclaimed, "There is the +old church we went to! My father built it," and then I remembered the +fact. Well can I remember the old church, with its old-fashioned +windows, seats and gallery, and its organ that stood in the gallery, +facing the congregation. When I first remembered it, Mrs. Atwood, now +Mrs. Sidney Wilson, was organist, and I was organ-blower. Originally +it was played as a barrel organ, as it contained three barrels which +contained ten tunes each, but Mr. Seeley, the owner and proprietor of +the Australian House, at the north end of James Bay bridge, made and +adapted a keyboard to it, and Mrs. Wilson played it in the morning +and in the afternoon. In the evening the keyboard was removed, and +your humble servant ground out the hymn tunes as on a barrel organ. + +It was in this gallery that I first met John Butts we have heard so +much of through Mr. Higgins. I remember Butts as a sleek, +respectable-looking young fellow with a nice tenor voice, which he +was not afraid to use, and he was quite an addition to the choir, of +which I was a juvenile member. In after years John fell from grace +and gave up the choir, and might have been heard singing as he walked +along the street, and not above taking fifty cents from someone well +able to give it. He was always cheerful and goodnatured, and if a +child were lost John would ring his bell and walk up and down calling +out the fact. + +This view of the old city is taken from the rocks on the Indian +reserve, and in the foreground is a large building which occupied the +site of the present marine hospital. When first I remember this +building it was used as a lunatic asylum. It is the only prominent +building shown on the reserve, with the exception of the Indian +lodges, which by the extent might accommodate easily two +thousand Indians. The harbor is full of shipping, taking up the whole +frontage from the Hudson's Bay Company's wharf north, which is the +only one distinctly to be seen in the view. The vessels reach to the +bridge across the harbor. + +At anchor is the historic _Beaver_, and steaming out of the +harbor is the British steamer _Forward_. On the Hudson's Bay +Company's wharf is a large shed or house. I do not see the present +brick building, which was not built then (1859), but Mr. Glide says +in a large shed on this wharf the _British Colonist_ first saw +the light, the advance sheets being printed here in 1858. When the +shed was torn down a little over a year ago there were brought to +light a number of old letters, which was a good find for the man who +had the job of taking the shed down, for there were lots of old +Vancouver Island stamps on these letters. + +The _Colonist_ was moved from here to Wharf Street, about where +the Macdonald block now stands. Also Wells, Fargo's express first did +business in this shed, then moved to Yates Street, where it was +located in a building, the lumber for which was imported from San +Francisco, being redwood. This building was afterwards moved to +Langley, between Bastion and Fort, and used as a feed store by Turner +& Todd, whom we all know. + +An incident by my schoolfellow Ernest Leigh, of Upland Farm in 1859, +finishes this reminiscence. + +Killing of Capt. Jack. + +Referring to Mr. Higgins' most interesting account of the killing of +the noted Indian chieftain, "Captain Jack," at the Victoria jail in +the year 1860--the result of this shooting was to set the Indians +over on the reserve wild with excitement, which condition was aided +by a plentiful supply of infernal firewater obtained from the +notorious wholesale joint at the end of the Johnson Street bridge. +They immediately decided to start in their canoes up along the +straits toward Saanich, calling at the many farms and wreaking their +vengeance upon the settlers. A man was sent out from the fort on +horseback to warn the farmers. At the Uplands Farm at Cadboro Bay, +where the late William Leigh and family were residing, there were +some seventeen people--men, women and children. When the warning came +a hasty consultation was had, Mr. Leigh being away on business, as to +whether it would be best to load up the wagons and all move in to the +fort, or to barricade the house and run chances of being burned out, +or to hide away in the forest behind the farm. The latter course was +finally decided upon, and with a supply of blankets, mats and wraps, +for protection against the cold, a movement was made down into a +heavily wooded ravine about half a mile back of the farm, where, +hidden under the spreading branches of a large pine, the party made +themselves as comfortable as they could, the women and children +huddled close under the tree and the men and elder boys mounting +guard on the outer edge. Some of them were perched in the lower +branches with whatever arms they had been able to secure, principally +old Hudson Bay flintlock muskets. + +It was very dark and gloomy in the ravine, which was heavily timbered +with a pine forest, and the concealed partly expected that at any +time the Indians might arrive and fire the farm buildings, and +perhaps search for them. + +Just before dawn several dark forms were seen by the best-sighted +of the men on watch, creeping cautiously up the ravine towards +the hiding-place. The cracking of twigs and an occasional grunt +were heard, and we knew the Indians were approaching. Word was +passed not to fire until our leader gave the signal, which was +finally given. Two of the old flintlocks went off, the others missed +fire. One of the bullets struck one of a drove of pigs which were +quietly feeding up the ravine and which in our terror we took for the +foe. The squeals of the wounded pig frightened the others, and the +whole drove came charging and squealing up the ravine right through +our camp, tumbling over men, women and children, whose screams, added +to the noise of the pigs, made matters a trifle lively until the +enemy went by. The morning growing bright, and no Indians appearing, +a cautious approach was made to the farm, and shortly after a runner +came from the fort with word that the Indians had taken to their +canoes the night before and had started out, but had been turned back +by the gunboat which was on watch, and they were not allowed to leave +the outer harbor, so our terror was without cause. + +(Note.--I saw the arrest of the Indian chief "Captain Jack," and +heard the shot fired by Constable Taylor that killed him, as I stood +outside the outer entrance to the gaol.--E. F.) + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +FIRES AND FIREMEN. + + +I had intended telling what I knew of the fires of early Victoria, +but when I sat down to put to paper what I know of any noted fires, I +first realized how little there was to tell of that dread element's +ravages in early Victoria. But although there is not so much to tell +of great fires, there is a good deal to be said of the men who +prevented those fires becoming great, so I decided to go on with my +subject. + +For a city of its size and age, there could not be one more immune +from fires. Was it the fir of which we built most of our principal +buildings? Some contend it was. The Douglas fir was hard to burn, and +the honesty of those fir-built houseowners no doubt was also a +reason. In the _Victoria Gazette_ of 1858 there are many +references to the subject of fires that might occur, and also to the +fact that there is no water to put out a fire should one occur. Then +the editor suggests a public meeting to consider the important +subject and also as to the building of large tanks to hold salt water +at the bottom of Johnson Street. Subsequently Governor Douglas is +petitioned to procure a fire engine, with the result that he ordered +two. Later one of these engines, named the "Telegraph," arrived from +San Francisco, and I believe was second-hand, as the price paid was +$1,600. Another petition was sent to the Governor to organize a fire +department under an officer appointed by himself. Soon after a +public meeting was called by advertisement by the following +gentlemen to organize: M. F. Truett, J. J. Southgate, A. Kaindler, +A. H. Guild, Chas. Potter, Samuel Knight and J. N. Thain. This was +the initial movement to form a volunteer fire department. + +At a subsequent meeting, E. E. Eyres was appointed secretary, and the +following a working committee: James Yates (father of Alderman +Yates); Chas. A. Bayley, hotel-keeper, corner Yates and Government +Streets; Capt. J. H. Doan, since died (his daughter is still a +resident); Leopold Lowenberg, a real estate agent, and uncle of Carl +Lowenberg, German consul; and Roussett, Truett and Myers. This +committee was to select one hundred men to each engine to form the +companies. The first meeting of No. 2 engine was called and the +notice is signed by David Green (clothier, whose widow is still a +resident), H. J. Labatt, W. F. Bartlett and J. W. Turnbull. The first +meeting of Engine No. 1 was called to meet at the business place of +Thomas J. Burnes, August 6th, 1858 (customs staff.) His photo, taken +in 1860 by Robinson (over Theatre Royal), is here reproduced, showing +he has been elected foreman of his company. Mr. Burnes was a most +enthusiastic fireman for many years after this. The photo of Jno. C. +Keenan of same date is also given. He was another good fireman. +(Note.--Both these photos have been lost.--E. F.) + +[Illustration: Hook and Ladder Company.] + +A picture is here reproduced of a May Day parade of Victoria's +volunteer firemen of forty years ago. I am sorry I am not able to +give the names of more of those in line, but the photo is so old it +is hard to make them out. Would you believe it, May Day was a general +holiday, and set apart as "Fireman's" day, and celebrated with a +parade and picnic, either at Medana's Grove or Cook and North Park +Streets. The weather was usually fine with the warm sunshine of +spring. I hear the gong of the engines as the procession moves +along--the hook and ladder company, the Tigers and the Deluge +company, all decorated with flowers, flags and evergreens. Under a +canopy of flowers sits a beautiful little girl as the "May Queen." +On each side and following behind march those who have constituted +themselves the salvors of their fellow-citizens' property and life. +Among these men were some of our prominent business men, merchants, +tradesmen and professional men, as well as workingmen. Would the +citizens of the present day believe that these men had banded +themselves together, put their hands in their pockets to build +engine-houses and equip engines, had given their time, either by +night or day, attending fires, and had paid monthly dues to keep the +concern going, and all without fee or reward? It is even so, and no +night was too cold or wet to keep these men from their duty. The +picture I produce of the "Hook and Ladders" in a May Day parade +of 1862 was taken from the original, and is here produced by the +kindness of Mr. Fred Morison (customs). He was then a torch boy and +continued a volunteer fireman for nearly thirty years. On account of +the age of the photo the faces are rather indistinct, so that some of +those present cannot be recognized. I should like to have known who +the six or seven boys are, and whether they are with us to-day, but I +make out of those present: Robt. Homfray, C.E.; J. D. Edgar, of Edgar +& Aime; Richard Lewis, undertaker; Murray Thain, now of Moodyville; +Henry and Robert Thain; Louis Vigelius, barber; Philip J. Hall, the +banner-bearer; W. T. Liveock, Chief Factor of Hudson's Bay +Company; Fred. Morison, customs, torch boy; Wolff, merchant, of Yates +Street; E. Grancini, merchant, Wharf Street; Wm. Harrison, now of +Saanich, and J. R. Anderson, Deputy Minister of Agriculture, secretary. + +On reading Mr. Levy's interesting sketch appended, I see that the +Hotel de France was also destroyed by fire, and, being built of +California redwood, was entirely consumed. + +[Illustration: Colonial Hotel.] + +The first mention of a fire that is recorded in public print is taken +from the _Victoria Gazette_ in 1858. It is that of one of those +primitive erections, a house-tent, with the contents thereof. At that +time Victoria was covered in all directions, I am told, with canvas +houses. In February, 1859, there were a great many, I know. As a +member of the Victoria fire department, hook and ladder company, I +attended many fires, but they were small comparatively. The +destruction of the Colonial Hotel on Government Street, as here +produced, is one of them. The Colonial was situated on Government +Street, between the Alhambra building on the corner of Yates and the +San Francisco baths (then kept by an old fireman, Thos. Geiger), +occupying also the upper portion of the building now used as a music +store by Fletcher Bros. The old photos of the Colonial show the hotel +before and after the fire. Sosthenes Driard, who was subsequently +proprietor of the Driard House, was the proprietor, and Mons. +Hartangle, who was afterwards co-partner with Driard in the Driard +House, was chief cook. He may be seen standing in front of Alex. +Gilmore's clothing store (now Fletcher's); also a man with crutches, +nicknamed "Pegleg Smith," who was an M.P.P. of that day, and behind +him is, I think, your humble servant. Further south, and on the +same side as the Colonial, was the Hotel de France, Manciet and Bigne, +proprietors. Of this hotel I have a vivid recollection, as I paid +several visits there with my mother when I was a boy. She had heard of a +sick miner (maybe from Cariboo) who lay there dying. His physician, Dr. +Powell, had done all he could for him, and he knew his end was not far +off. He had, like hundreds of others, risked his precious health for +gold, had been successful, and now was to leave this beautiful world and +the gold with it. My mother thought it her duty to go and see him, read +to him, and tell him of the better world beyond. So one Sunday afternoon +she went, and I with her, to carry some little delicacy which he might +not be able to get in the usual way. She got sufficient encouragement to +go again and again, until the end came, and my mother was satisfied that +she had done him some good spiritually. To come back to fires. There was +the fire in Theatre Royal, after the play of the "Octoroon." Although +the theatre was gutted, it was not consumed, the reason being partly, +no doubt, that it was built of Douglas fir logs. The surroundings being +of a most inflammable nature, this was very surprising. I might also +instance the first and second fires at Christ Church, the second of +which only was successful in consuming the building. It was the custom +for every citizen present to lend a helping hand when a fire was of any +dimensions. It was only doing for another what you might want yourself +next week. If the fire was in the business portion of the city the +stores on the opposite side of the street were thrown open to receive +goods from the burning building, which were carried by many willing +helpers. Oh, the good old days! As I have stated in a former +article, the bluejackets from the war vessels at Esquimalt were +telephoned for, and ran all the way up and worked like the +bluejackets always do--with all their heart and soul. I might go on +discoursing on these incidents of bygone days, but as Mr. H. E. Levy, +one of the pioneer firemen, has promised to add to this imperfect +account, I shall leave the fires and say something of the firemen. I +would draw the attention of my readers to the picture of a May Day +parade in 1862. It is the Union Hook and Ladder Company, drawn up on +Bastion Square with their truck. + +The Pioneer Engines. + +(By H. E. Levy.) + +"First in order comes the Union Hook and Ladder Company, a very swell +affair, composed of the leading merchants of the city, sixty-five +strong. They were first located on the present site of the Board of +Trade building, then removing to Government Street to the spot on +which now stands the new Promis building. Next came the Deluge Engine +Company, No. 1, who ran a very cumbrous Hunneman tub, made in Boston, +afterwards securing a Merryweather steam engine from England. This +company also consisted of sixty-five men, and were first located +about where the Poodle Dog now stands, moving thence to that point on +Yates Street now occupied by the Maynard shoe store, again moving to +their own building on the north side of Yates Street east of Broad. +Next comes the Tiger Engine Company, No. 21, first located on Johnson +Street, next to where the Jubilee saloon now stands, and afterwards +moving to the north side of Johnson, just above Government. This +company commenced business with an old double-decker that was brought +up from San Francisco by the Hudson's Bay Company, and was there +known as Telegraph No. 1. This machine was very similar to the one +brought here last summer by the San Francisco veterans; it was +succeeded later by an up-to-date 'Button and Blake' hand engine, +and still later by a fine steamer from the same firm. These three +companies were very effective and presented a fine appearance in +their semi-military uniforms, as they turned out in full force on +their gala day, the first of May. + +"On the arrival of the steam fire engines, six of the younger members +of each company were taught to manage the same, and soon became +proficient as engineers. Each company sent three members to the board +of delegates, who made laws for the entire department. Whether owing +to good luck or good management, we had very few large fires in those +days, the most notable being the Rosedale store, owned by Reid and +McDonald, on the north-east corner of Bastion and Wharf Streets; the +Sam Price warehouse, then used as a lodging-house, opposite the +Occidental Hotel--this fire brought out for the first time the Tiger +steam engine, with Mr. H. E. Levy (one of the engineer class) at the +throttle. Another large fire not to be overlooked was the Hotel de +France on Government Street, nearly opposite Bastion. It is a notable +fact that a great number of the most efficient heads of the +department were nearly all Americans, viz., John Dickson, S. L. +Kelly, John C. Keenan, Charles Brooks, J. A. McCrea, James Drummond, +and many others, who no doubt are still remembered by the old-timers. +There was a strong spirit of emulation between the companies, +which added greatly to their efficiency, each striving to be first at +the fire, as it was considered an honor to have first water on the +same. At the tap of the fire alarm men could be seen running from all +quarters to the engine-houses, as the first man at the engine-house +had the honor of carrying the pipe into the fire, which was a +position of some danger." + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +A SIBERIAN MAMMOTH. + + +Some four or five years ago I came across an American illustrated +newspaper containing an account of the discovery of a perfect mammoth +in Siberia, where it had been imbedded in a glacier for thousands of +years. It was stated that an expedition had been sent from St. +Petersburg by the Imperial Academy of Sciences, headed by Dr. Herz; +also that later a telegram had been received stating the expedition +had been successful in securing the animal complete, and that all the +principal parts, including even part of the contents of the stomach, +had been secured and were being brought on sledges overland for +thousands of miles. I was intensely interested in the alleged +discovery, and made many enquiries of various people to find out if +there was anything in it more than sensation such as is often got +from some of the American papers. The result of my enquiries was very +disappointing; most of those I interviewed considered it a yarn. I +let the matter rest for some time and then decided to write a friend +in St. Petersburg for particulars. Mrs. Calthorpe (_nee_ +Dunsmuir), wife of Captain Gough-Calthorpe, who was naval attache to +the British Legation at the time, responded in due course of time, +sending me a photo (Since lost.--E. F.), reproduced herewith, of the +animal as it appeared stuffed in the Imperial Museum, and the promise +of a description, which Mr. Norman, secretary of the legation, had +kindly promised to translate from the Russian for me. This has lately +come to hand, and as Mr. Norman states, is rather disappointing--that +is, as regards the size of the mammoth, it being a young one. The +wonderful part of the story is that the stomach of the mammoth +contained food as fresh as the day it was eaten thousands of years +ago. The food seems to have been young shoots of a species of pine +tree, with vegetable matter. The hair on its back was about 13 inches +long, with a thick fur at the roots of the hair. I submit the +translated account by Mr. Norman, with his letter to me, which I +think will be interesting to the many friends of the two British +Columbia ladies mentioned therein. I also give an account of the +expedition as contained in the newspapers at the time of discovery, +as follows: + +Story of the Scientific Expedition. + +"The discovery of the mammoth to which the cable despatch on this +page refers, was reported during the summer, and has excited the +widest interest in scientific circles. + +"A very interesting account of the discovery by Dr. von Adelung, +curator of the museum of the Imperial Academy of Sciences at St. +Petersburg, has just appeared in the _Globus_, a leading German +scientific paper, of Brunswick. + +"From this account it appears that the mammoth was first reported by +a Cossack named Jawlowsky. He found it in a glacier near the +Beresowka River, a tributary of the Kolyma River, in far Northeastern +Siberia. The nearest settlement is Sredne Kolymsk, three hundred +versts (a verst is 3,500 yards) away. + +"The situation of the body is a very extraordinary one. +It lies in an enormous pocket of ice, between the mountains, near +the river bank. The ice is evidently the relic of the great glacier +that existed here in former ages. The upper ice in time flowed away, +leaving only the lower part shut up in this pocket. The River +Beresowka only thaws for a short time in summer. The surface of +the earth in this region also thaws only at this season, and then +only to a depth of two or three feet. Beneath that the soil is +eternally frozen. + +"A slight melting of the surface of the ice left a bright, smooth +space, peering through which the Cossack Jawlowsky saw the ancient +mammoth preserved, as we sometimes see a lobster in a cake of ice. +The Cossack knew how interesting such relics were to civilized men +and promptly reported this one. + +"Through the agency of Mr. Horn, the Chief of Police of Kolymsk, the +Cossack's report was conveyed to the Governor of Yakutsk. He being +interested in scientific matters, promptly communicated the report to +the Imperial Academy of Sciences at St. Petersburg. + +"The greatest scientific undertaking of this kind ever made was then +determined upon. This was nothing less than an expedition to bring +back the complete body of the mammoth. It was promptly organized by +the Imperial Academy, with the fullest assistance of the government +and the Ministry of Finance. Dr. Otto Herz, curator of the Imperial +Museum, was appointed leader of the expedition, with Dr. Pfitzenmayer +as assistant. + +"The expedition proceeded along the Trans-Siberian railroad as far as +Irkutsk. From there to the place of the discovery is a journey by +land and water of fully 3,000 miles. The scientists made part of this +journey in boats down the Lena River to Jakutsk. They then +started on an overland journey to Sredne Kolymsk. They took fifty +horses for transport. A large part of the way lay through virgin +forest. Then came the formation called the Taiga, a sort of Arctic +moorland, which becomes swampy and dangerous in summer. + +"The scientists had to live on salt fish, mare's milk and stewed tree +bark. Several lives were lost on the journey, but it is now known +that the chief scientists reached their destination. They proceeded +without delay to excavate the mammoth. + +"The flesh is treated with arsenic and then sewn up in new cowhide, +which shrinks, becomes air-tight and preserves the contents. + +"Nothing more will probably be heard from the scientists during the +present winter. Dr. Herz, according to the last report, was in doubt +as to which of two ways he will take in returning. He may, during the +coming summer, endeavor to take the mammoth's remains overland to +Markova, a little settlement on the Anadyr River, which runs into +Behring Sea. There he would winter and go down the river at the +opening of next summer, and catch the steamship that calls there once +a year. + +"If this proves impracticable, he will have to wait until the winter +of 1902-1903, and take the remains overland by sledges to Irkutsk. It +would be impossible to make this tremendous journey in summer, +through a roadless country, where there are thousands of square miles +of swamps. + +"Numerous relics of mammoths have been discovered in Siberia, +including pieces of skin, and all the bones. On more than one +occasion a complete animal has been found preserved in the ice, +but a complete animal has never been secured in its entirety and +brought back to civilization. That is exactly what the Imperial +Academy of Sciences now proposes to do. According to the last report +from Irkutsk, it is in a fair way to accomplish this. + +"It is, perhaps, one of the most marvellous facts in the whole realm +of nature that the body of a mammoth should be preserved exactly as +it existed in life thousands and thousands of years ago, but there is +every reason to believe that this happened in countless cases. + +"The mammoth was a gigantic species of extinct elephant. It +flourished in past geological ages, and also survived into the days +of early man. When the Palaeolithic or Old Stone man flourished on +earth two hundred thousand years ago, the mammoth was as common as +the horse to-day. In no part of the world were mammoths more abundant +than in Northern Siberia. They must have roamed about there as freely +as the buffalo did in North America fifty years ago. + +"Though similar in structure to the modern elephant, the mammoth was +very different in habits. He was a northern animal, and with this in +view was provided with a very long, thick hair, reddish in color, +like that of the camel. He had extraordinary teeth and stomach, so +that he was able to masticate and digest, not only plants, leaves and +so forth, but wood and the trunks of trees. His stomach has been +found full of young fir trees. His teeth were built in layers and +renewed themselves ceaselessly through life. + +"Sometimes the mammoth would become mired in a soft spot of earth, +and there sink in, die, become frozen and preserved forever. Another +mammoth, while walking across a glacier, would fall into a crevasse, +and there become frozen in a gigantic block of ice. That is what +happened in the case of the animal recently discovered in +Siberia. The soil is generally frozen to a depth of four hundred +feet in Northern Siberia. + +"There were many species of mammoths, some of them existing in +earlier ages than others. One species was provided with four tusks, +the upper ones turning up as in the present elephant, and the lower +turning down, as in the walrus. These horns were of gigantic size, in +some cases measuring twelve feet long. They were adapted principally +to digging up and pulling down trees. The mastodon was a giant +elephant of a still earlier period than the mammoth. + +"In spite of their gigantic size and weapons, the mammoths were +frequently killed by prehistoric men. These men must have been very +brave and determined to kill these huge and terribly armed beasts, +with stone and rude wood and bone spears. + +"The very word 'mammoth' is of Siberian Tartar origin, being derived +from the word 'mammoth,' the earth, on account of the beast being +found frozen in the earth. Chinese records show that they, too, +frequently discovered the frozen mammoths. The beast is probably the +same as the 'Behemoth' of the Bible. + +"The bones of the mammoth when first discovered in Europe were +variously regarded as the remains of giant men and of elephants that +had been brought to Europe by the ancient Romans. Even the majority +of scientists held to this opinion until Sir Richard Owen, the great +palaeontologist, first proved that they were the remains of an extinct +animal allied to, but of different species from, the elephant. + +"One of the first mammoths described by modern scientists was found +on the peninsula of Tamut, near the Lena River, in 1799. It was fully +enclosed in a mass of clear ice. It was uncovered and rotted away +in 1804." + +Mr. Norman's Letter. + +The following is a copy of Mr. Norman's letter: + + "British Embassy, St. Petersburg, + + "Dec. 24, 1904. + +"Dear Sir,--Before leaving St. Petersburg, Mrs. Gough-Calthorpe, wife +of our late naval attache, asked me to send you some information +about the stuffed mammoth which is in the Zoological Museum here, as +you were interested in such things, and I promised to translate the +passage in the catalogue which refers to the animal. + +"The revolution which has been raging here for the last few months +has given me so much to do I really have not had time to keep my +promise sooner. However, I now send you the translation, which, I +fear, tells disappointingly little about the mammoth, giving no +measurements nor any description of his appearance. The earlier part, +too, about the distribution of the elephant family, is doubtless also +stale news to you. + +"You have, I believe, already received a photograph of him from Mrs. +Calthorpe, so you know what he looks like, but as I have seen him +very often, I may add a few details as to his personal appearance +from my own observation. He is smaller than I expected--a good deal +smaller than an elephant, but then, it is true, he was young when he +died, not full grown, I suppose. His tusks are magnificent. His +hair is very thick, abundant and long and of a fashionable dark +reddish-brown tint. Otherwise he is very like an elephant in +general build, and I should say, so far as I can judge without +being a specialist, in details also. + +"I hope these few details may be of use to you. Should you want more +about the mammoth, or require information about anything else in the +museum here, I shall be very glad to do my best to satisfy you. + +"The Calthorpes are much regretted by all of us here, as they were +greatly beloved by us. Curiously enough, the wife of Calthorpe's +successor, Captain Victor Stanley, also comes from British Columbia. + + "Yours very truly, + + "H. Norman. + + "Secretary to His Majesty's Embassy. + +"I send this by King's messenger as far as London, which will still +further delay it, but the posts are now very irregular and unsafe in +Russia owing to the revolutionary strikes. H. N." + +Translation from Catalogue. + +"During the tertiary period elephants were very numerous and were +distributed over Europe, Asia as far as the Arctic Ocean, North +America and Africa. By the remains excavated, many species of extinct +elephants are now distinguished, among which one, known under the +name of Mammoth (_Elephas Primigenius_), existed in immense +numbers in Europe and in Siberia as far as its most northern limits. +In Siberia the frozen bodies of these animals have frequently been +found well preserved, with the skin and flesh. On account of the +remoteness of the places where these bodies have been found, not all +the expeditions sent to exhume them have had a successful issue. +In this connection the most successful of all was that organized by the +Academy of Sciences in 1901 to the River Berezovka, in the Yakutsk +district, which consisted of Messrs. O. F. Herz and E. W. Pfitzenmayer. +Thanks to this expedition an excellent specimen of the mammoth was +received by the Academy of Sciences,--rather young, with skin, parts +of the internal organs, some food and almost the whole skeleton. +Unfortunately some of the soft parts of the body, such as the trunk, +were not found. The remains of this mammoth made it possible not only +to set up the skeleton, but to stuff the animal, which is placed in the +position in which it died, suddenly, in all probability, and in which +it was found in a frozen condition." + +This story can hardly be called a "reminiscence" of Victoria, but I +thought that it might be interesting to many who, like myself, have a +liking for old and ancient things, as this mammoth most assuredly +was. Also there may be an interest taken in the letter from Mr. +Norman, the secretary to H.M. Embassy, speaking as it does of one who +formerly was a resident and native-born of British Columbia.--E. F. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +MRS. EDWIN DONALD, HON. WYMOND HAMLEY, HON. G. A. WALKEM. + + +Mrs. Edwin Donald. + +"I have fought a good fight, I have finished my course, I have kept +the faith."--Timothy 4:7, 8. Never was there one to whom these words +could be applied with greater truth than to the subject of this +sketch. A faithful servant of her Lord, she was always ready to say a +good word for Him, and took advantage of any and all opportunities to +bring back to Him some friend whom she thought had become careless, +thoughtless, or indifferent in His service. + +I am sure my old friend admonished me many a time during our +forty-six years of close friendship, but always in the most kindly +manner, that could not help impressing me, knowing it was well meant, +and knowing also that she considered it her duty to say what she did. + +It was in February, 1859, as a boy of twelve, just arrived from San +Francisco, that I first met her. She and her husband had lately +arrived from Wisconsin, U.S., where they had been living some years, +and, having a sister here already, she had been induced to come to +her. Her sister, herself and their husbands had all come from +Cornwall. The elder sister and her husband (Trounce) had emigrated to +Van Diemen's Land, as Tasmania was then called; the Trounces +later on went to San Francisco, and from there came to Victoria, in +the same steamer as my father, in 1858. + +The Trounces and Donalds lived in tents on Douglas Street in 1858, +and when our family arrived in 1859 they had just moved into what was +then considered a very handsome house. It now stands on Kane Street, +between Douglas and Blanchard. + +Like Dorcas of Joppa, "she was full of good works and alms deeds." +The two sisters, with their husbands, were Wesleyan Methodists, and +Mrs. Donald, although eighty-eight years of age, attended church +twice on Sunday, and always walked both ways, to the Metropolitan +Church on Pandora Street. This she did to the end, having gone twice +the last Sunday. She did not believe in Sunday cars, and would not +use them, although they would have been such a help to her; but no, +she thought it wrong, so took the course she thought was right. My +wife and I called on her about ten days before her death, and on +asking her how she was she replied, "I am as well as can be expected, +for I am an old woman, you know." She was as cheerful as usual. She +never complained; everything was for the best, she thought. + +And so it was in her case, for she was near her end, "having fought a +good fight and finished her course." She died literally in harness, +for an hour or so before she breathed her last, she was working for +the church, propped up in bed sewing. Towards the end, being +conscious, she said, "I think my Lord wants me," and so passed away +to a better life. She was attended at her death by an affectionate +niece, Miss Carrie Thomas; her other relatives being Mrs. Thomas and +Mrs. Morall. + +Hon. Wymond Hamley. + +[Portrait: Wymond Hamley.] + +The late collector of customs, under whom I was privileged to serve +from 1882 to 1900, was appointed by Sir Edward B. Lytton as collector +of customs of New Westminster, and arrived by sailing vessel in 1859. + +After the union of the mainland and island in 1867, the collector, +with his staff, came down to Victoria and established the customs +house on Government Street in a wooden structure near the post-office +of that day, and it was a very unpretentious affair. + +His staff of that time, and who were with him at New Westminster, was +composed of Mr. Macrae, who in 1872 was pensioned on account of +defective eyesight, and is now living in Ireland, chief clerk; +Charles S. Finlaison (afterwards chief clerk), George Frye, C. S. +Wylde and Richard Hunter. All of these, except Mr. Macrae, are dead. +Mr. Hamley was the last of three brothers, and all of us have heard +of the youngest, Sir Edward, the hero of Tel el Kebir, who, with his +eldest brother, were generals in the British army. Sir Edward was a +noted tactician, and it was through this he became the hero of Tel el +Kebir. He was prominent in the Imperial Parliament also as a speaker. +The elder brother I heard little of from him, but I know he was very +proud of his younger brother. + +The late collector was in early life in the British civil service, +and subsequently joined the navy, and served on the China station. I +shall always have a kindly feeling for my late chief, as he was a +good friend to me, and felt kindly disposed to me, by the many +conversations we had together. He was a just man in all his dealings +with the public, and treated all alike without fear or favor, and his +decisions were, as a rule, always upheld at Ottawa. There also +could not have been a more popular man with his staff. + +So one by one the good old stock of the early pioneers passes away, +and their places will be hard to fill, so I say "_Requiescat in pace_." + +Hon. G. A. Walkem. + +As a friend of over forty years, I should like to add a few lines to +what has been said of the late Mr. Walkem. Some forty-two years ago I +was going up Yates Street, past Wells Fargo's bank and express, which +then occupied the brick building on the south side just above the +American Hotel and next Pierson's tinware store. It was steamer day, +and Yates Street was full of life, as it always was when the San +Francisco steamer had just arrived with passengers, freight, mails +and express. + +The latter was the more important in those days. The chief business +was done with San Francisco, and the most of the letters came by +express, costing twenty-five cents each, from San Francisco. As I +said before, I was passing Wells Fargo's. The large front office was +open to the street and was full of business men and others. The staff +of the express consisted of Colonel Pendergast, Major Gillingham (who +introduced quail from California), and a colored man named Miller, as +messenger. + +What attracted my attention was "George Anthony Walkem," called in a +loud voice. I stopped and squeezed inside, where there was a scene +that never will be enacted again in this city, I think, in the way of +business. Major Gillingham was unlocking express bags and cutting +open bundles of letters, which he handed to Colonel Pendergast, +who was mounted on a chair and calling out the addresses on the +letters. If the addressee was there he called out "Here," and the +letter was handed across the room to where he stood, or if not there, +was taken by a friend. After all the letters had been called, the +audience trooped out and went to their offices to peruse their +correspondence. + +"George Anthony Walkem" on this occasion was not there and did not +answer to his name, but the letter was put in the letter-rack to be +delivered by Miller, the messenger. This occasion is vivid in my +memory, as if of yesterday, and is the first time I remember Mr. +Walkem. + +It was a couple of years after that I met him at a dance, and we +became friends, and met at many home dances and parties. He was a +young lawyer and fond of the society of young people, although older +than they were. In those days dancing was one of our chief +amusements, classes being formed under the direction of some lady. +They were very enjoyable, being kept select. The ladies having the +two principal classes were Mrs. Digby Palmer and Mrs. J. H. +Carmichael. I belonged to each, and met Mr. Walkem often. The +principal thing I wished to speak of with respect to my friend was +his gift of animal drawing, he being no mean follower of Sir Edwin +Landseer. + +This I found out as a great surprise one day while visiting him at +his rooms over Hibben & Co.'s store. The walls were plastered, and +white, and all over were covered with animals and portraits of noted +characters of the day done with a crayon pencil. These portraits were +of such men as Judge Begbie, the Governor, an admiral of the station, +or some noted politician. + +But what took my fancy most of all were his lions, male and +female and cubs, and in all positions. It was a sight well worth +seeing, and would so be considered to-day. + +Long after Mr. Walkem left these rooms these walls were left intact, +and many schemes were devised to remove the pictures with the walls. +A prominent man, I think Admiral Farquhar, asked my brother if it +were possible to cut the plaster off the studding in blocks and so +preserve these beautiful pictures. I am sorry to say it proved to be +impossible. + +To-day there are reproductions of these pictures in the judge's +residence. They were framed in gilt by us, and it is only a year or +so since I saw them in Sommer's being reframed. I recognized them +immediately. + +He was pleased to compliment me some time ago on one of my sketches +of early Victoria, a subject we compared notes on frequently, when I +suggested that he give to his friends some of his early experiences +in Cariboo, which he recited to me, telling of those days when he +started off from Victoria a young man, with a good profession, lots +of energy, a fund of good humor, and not a very heavy purse. He had +his experiences, and valuable experiences they were, and in Cariboo +he entered into politics, and for years represented that constituency +in the Local House. He was a good friend, and I shall miss his visits +to my office, when he came in to chat for a few minutes, always to +wind up with a "reminiscence." Well, as I said before, I shall miss +him and shall remember him with the most kindly feelings. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +THE CONSECRATION OF THE IRON CHURCH. + + +Old-timers will be interested in the following clipping giving +particulars of the consecration of St. John's Church. The year is not +given, but it was in 1860 (April 13th). It was when first built a +very ugly building, having no semblance of a tower, which was added +many years after. The first rector was Rev. R. J. Dundas, M.A. Of the +clergy who took part fifty years ago, there are, I think, only three +living, viz., Rev. Edward Cridge, now Bishop Cridge; Rev. J. +Sheepshanks, now Bishop of Norwich, and the Rev. Alexander Garrett, +now Bishop of Dallas, Texas. Of the bishops then present, both are +dead. Bishop Morris, of Oregon, who preached the consecration sermon, +died a few years ago, aged eighty-seven, the oldest bishop in the +United States; and Bishop Hills died in England soon after he left +this country, having resigned the bishopric of British Columbia, a +very disappointed man. Strange to say, he took a rectorship under one +of his former clergy, Rev. J. Sheepshanks, Bishop of Norwich. + +It will be noted that the hymn-books used at the service were to be +obtained at Hibben & Carswell's (T. N. Hibben & Co.). To close the +consecration services there was to be a social gathering or +tea-meeting, which was a popular form of entertainment in those good +old days. The admission was one dollar, and the proceedings commenced +at half-past six o'clock. Just think of it, ye late birds of the +later days, when half-past eight is not too late! As the choir of +Christ Church assisted at these services, and as I was a choir-boy, +I must have been there. + +The printed programme reads: "The consecration of the Church of St. +John the Evangelist is fixed for Thursday next, 13th inst. The solemn +occasion will be marked by a series of services, at which a voluntary +choir will contribute their assistance, aided by the fine organ just +erected. It is also intended to hold meetings, one of which meetings +will organize the Diocesan Church Society, and the other draw +together in a social way the friends of religion, and the +well-wishers of the Church of England. It is earnestly hoped that +these various occasions may tend to strengthen the best influences +amongst us, and advance substantially the work of the Lord. + +"The following is the order of services: + +"Thursday, September 13th, in the morning, consecration service at 11 +a.m. Sermon by the Bishop of Oregon. + +"The Holy Communion will be administered. + +"In the evening service at 7 p.m. Sermon by the Bishop of Columbia. + +"Friday, September 21st, service at 11 a.m. Sermon by the Rev. E. +Willis (rector of St. John's, Olympia). + +"Evening service at 7 p.m. Sermon by the Rev. W. D. Crickmer, M.A., +minister of Fort Yale. + +"Sunday, September 16th, morning service at 11 a.m. Sermon by the +Bishop of Columbia. + +"Afternoon service at 3 p.m. Sermon by the Rev. E. Cridge, B.A., +minister of Christ Church. + +"Evening service at 6.30. Sermon by the Bishop of Oregon. + +"Tuesday, September 18th, evening service at 7 p.m. Sermon by the +Rev. J. Sheepshanks, M.A., minister of New Westminster. + +"Friday, September 21st, evening service at 7 p.m. Sermon by Rev. +Alex. C. Garrett, B.A. + +"Sunday, September 23rd, morning service at 11 a.m. Sermon by the +Bishop of Columbia. + +"Afternoon service at 3 p.m. Sermon by Rev. Charles T. Woods, M.A., +principal of Collegiate School. + +"Evening service at 6.30 p.m. Sermon by Rev. R. J. Dundas, M.A., +minister of St. John's. + +"Collections will be made after all services towards the debt still +on the church. + +"On Monday evening, September 17th, a meeting will be held in +Collegiate School-room at 7 o'clock, to arrange and constitute the +Columbia and Vancouver Diocesan Society, according to the plan +adopted in the colonies of Great Britain. + +"Addresses will be delivered. All friends of the Church of England +are invited to attend. + +"The chair will be taken by the Bishop of Columbia. + +"On Thursday, September 20th, there will be held a social reunion of +friends, when subjects of interest connected with social organization +will be discussed. Admission by ticket, one dollar each. Tea will be +provided. Proceedings to commence at 6.30 p.m." + +The following communication from a gentleman who did his part in +church work in this island in early days will interest many readers. +Extract from the _Union_, London, December 7th, 1860: + +"A correspondent in Vancouver Island sends an interesting account of +the first consecration of a church in that far-off colony by the +Bishop of Columbia. It is situated at Victoria and is dedicated to +St. John the Evangelist. It is of wood, encased with corrugated +iron plates, lined and panelled inside with redwood. It was sent from +England by the bishop, and placed by him at the disposal of the +people of Victoria, where a second church was needed. The interior, +which is stained dark with the fittings, is extremely tasteful. There +is a beautiful carved stone font, given by a late parishioner of the +bishop's; a fine organ, also a gift; a bell, altar cloth, and east +light of stained glass. The consecration took place on September +13th. There was a numerous congregation, including clerical and +lay representatives of the Anglo-American Church, who came from +Washington Territory. The bishop and clergy robed in the vestry, and +a procession being formed they proceeded round the church to the west +entrance, where the bishop was received by the Rev. Edward Cridge, +B.A., the incumbent of Christ Church, his church wardens and a +committee of laymen, the chief promoters of the work. The petition, +praying to consecrate the church, having been presented, the bishop +signified his assent and proceeded up the centre aisle, followed by +the clergy, the church wardens and committee following. The 24th +Psalm was recited by the bishop and clergy as they proceeded up the +church. The bishop took his seat within the altar rails attended by +his clergy in the north choir seats, the service being full choral, +and the effect very marked. It was, indeed, a privilege to join in +such a service ten thousand miles from home. The communion service +was said by the bishop, the epistle was read by the Rev. D. E. +Willis, the Gospel by Rev. J. Sheepshanks. The bishop preached from +Matt. 26:8, 9, subject, "Works of Faith and Love." The offering +amounted to $358." + +[Illustration: Iron Church.] + +The Jubilee of St. John's. + +Certain misleading remarks having been made at the jubilee of St. +John's with respect to Christ Church not having been consecrated for +long after being built, and that it was a log building, etc., I, +after getting facts from Bishop Cridge and an early resident who +attended its opening, replied: + +"_To the Editor of the Colonist_: + +"In reviewing the rather interesting article in Sunday's +_Colonist_ on the jubilee of St. John's Church, which contained +a deal I had already given some years ago, I noted particularly the +reference to the first Christ Church, and thought I could throw a +little light on the matter, especially after a conversation with an +early resident who attended the first service in the church in 1856. +The original building that was destroyed by fire was named 'Christ +Church' by Bishop Cridge, after Christ Church in London, of which he +was incumbent up to the time of his leaving for Vancouver Island in +1855. + +"After Mr. Cridge had been established here as resident minister and +chaplain to Hudson's Bay Company, Governor Douglas had Christ Church +built for him, and when the congregation had increased, Mr. Cridge +wrote to the Bishop of London, telling him that there were twenty +candidates for confirmation, and asking him what he (Mr. Cridge) +should do under the circumstances. In reply Mr. Cridge was advised to +write to Bishop Scott of Oregon, asking him to come to Victoria and +confirm them. This was done, and Bishop Scott came. + +"Thus took place the first confirmation on Vancouver Island, and in +this 'unconsecrated church.' The church is spoken of as being built +of logs. This is not so, as it was a frame structure, weather-boarded +on the outside, and lathed and plastered on the inside, with a stone +foundation. + +"The church had a low tower like a dove-cot with two bells. +Altogether it was a pretty church. The building was put up by William +Leigh, an official of the company, under the superintendency of Hon. +J. D. Pemberton, who drew the plans and was architect. It was opened +first for public worship in August, 1856, prior to which services +were held in the fort. Later on, as the gold rush from California +took place, and thousands came to Victoria, Mr. Cridge, being +overworked, he (Mr. Cridge) wrote to England to the Church and School +Society, asking for help. As a result of this appeal, St. John's +Church was sent out by Miss Burdett-Coutts. + +"I might further state that the Catholic Church was established here +prior to the arrival of Mr. Cridge, and for some time services under +Bishop Demers were held in the bishop's residence until a church was +erected. This pioneer of Catholic churches is still in existence, +having been moved from Humboldt Street south and east of St. Joseph's +Hospital to the rear of St. Ann's Convent, being there encased in +brick. As before stated, I was at the laying of the corner-stone of +St. John's Church in 1860, as also was Mr. Alexander Wilson, of Broad +Street, and we both remember the occasion, especially the music by +the fine band of H.M.S. _Sutlej_. I might here state that what I +have said has been to throw a little more light on an interesting +subject." + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +THE IRON CHURCH AGAIN. + + +Miss Woods, daughter of the late Sheriff Woods, and niece of the late +Archdeacon, has handed me the original notice in the handwriting of +the late Rev. R. J. Dundas, first rector of St. John's, of the laying +of the corner-stone of the St. John's Church, reading: "The +corner-stone of St. John's Church will be laid by His Excellency the +Governor (James Douglas), on Friday, the 13th April, at 3 o'clock +p.m., 1860." This makes it over forty-six years old. The ceremony was +performed on a beautiful spring afternoon. A procession was formed at +the residence of Captain Dodds (which, by the by, is still standing), +and marched to the site of the church. The magnificent band of H.M.S. +_Sutlej_ (a line-of-battleship), furnished the music for the +occasion. No flagship in later days has had such a band, for size or +excellence. My memory in this particular has been refreshed by a +fellow-pioneer in Mr. Alexander Wilson, who also attended the +ceremony. I might state that the oldest church building at the +present time is the Roman Catholic, which used to stand on Humboldt +street, and was later removed to the rear of St. Ann's Convent and +built around with brick. This church antedates even St. John's, as I +can remember it in 1859. In connection with this old church I have +heard some fine singing, when Father Brabant, of the West Coast, was +connected with the church, who was a fine baritone; also Madame +Beckingham, then a Miss Tissett, Mrs. Fellows and Charles Lombard. +It was a musical treat indeed. There were other good singers there, +but these were notable, and they are all alive to-day. + +[Portrait: Bishop Garrett.] + +Bishop Garrett. + +In connection with the above I have received from Bishop Garrett, who +was present on the occasion as Rev. A. C. Garrett, a very nice letter +with his photo, which I think may be of interest to those who +remember this eloquent divine of the pioneer days of Victoria, and +who is to-day Bishop of Dallas, Texas: + +"Dallas, Texas, August 9th, 1906. + +"Dear Mr. Fawcett: + +"Your letter is here and has my most willing attention. I remember +your father very well, and yourself, too. I also remember the iron +church and the old cathedral on the hill very well. I also remember +an incident which was amusing, in the iron church. Once the great +archdeacon preached a flowery sermon in St. John's in the morning. +The evening sermon was preached by the Rev. C. T. Woods, who was out +in the morning at a mission station. The archdeacon occupied a pew at +the evening service. When the text was given out he pricked up his +ears and sat up very straight. The opening sentence was the same as +that of the morning; and so was the next and the next, even to the +last! Some of those who had been present in the morning and had +complimented the Ven. Archdeacon upon his eloquence, began to smile +and nudged each other. At last the end came. The Ven. Archdeacon +went into the vestry, where some of the morning flatterers were +repeating their forenoon praises! At length they left, bursting +with laughter. Then the archdeacon said: 'I see that we two donkeys +have been eating the same cabbage!' + +"I remember also preaching in that church when the wind howled and +rattled through the roof in such a way that nothing could be heard. + +"Well, you are all greatly changed now--and so am I. Mrs. Garrett is +still vigorous, and I am doing a full day's work every day in the +year. + + "Affectionately yours, + + "Alex. C. Garrett, + + "Bishop of Dallas." + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +ITS DEPARTED GLORIES, OR ESQUIMALT, THEN AND NOW. + + +The other day I had occasion to go through the town of Esquimalt, to +the end of the principal street, which runs north and south. It was +to the north end I went to take a boat to board the cable-ship +_Restorer_ to see my son off for Honolulu. + +I had not been on this spot, that I can remember, for thirty years, +and I could not but stop and stare and wonder. Could this be the +Esquimalt I used to know years ago? + +I could not but conjure up memories of the past, of Esquimalt's +departed greatness, bustle and busy life. In 1858, and before my +time, this was the British Columbia headquarters of the San Francisco +steamers, as well as the headquarters of the navy. Of the latter +there were always three or four vessels with nearly always a +flagship, and such a ship! It seemed like climbing up a hillside as +you passed tier after tier of guns, and finally reached the upper +deck. + +The steamers running from San Francisco in those days were large +also, so large that they could not come into Victoria harbor, and the +_Panama_, I see by the _Colonist_ of that date, brought +1,200 passengers on one trip. + +Well, to proceed. As I walked down the street I turned from side +to side, trying to remember who lived in that house, and who in that +one, in the days that have gone by. Oh! what desolation! What ruin +and decay! Only about every fourth house was occupied--the others +given over to the dull echoes of the past. I looked in several +windows and saw nothing but emptiness, dust and decay. + +Of the notable houses and notable people who formed the population of +this once important town, there were the residences of Fred. +Williams, a prominent Mason and Speaker of the Legislature; William +Arthur, William Sellick and John Howard, hotel and saloon-keepers; +William Wilby, the mail carrier, with his numerous family; the +Millingtons and the Dodds. Of John Howard I have already written in +my description of an early-time Queen's birthday celebration on +Beacon Hill. John was a great horse fancier, and owned some winners, +which were generally ridden by the Millington boys. John, with his +friend, Thomas Harris (first mayor of Victoria), and Captain the Hon. +Lascelles, R.N., were then kindred spirits, and many a day's sport +they afforded to the public of Victoria. + +After reaching the end of the street and the landing, what did I see +of the bustle, business and life of forty-nine years ago--a small +forest of worm-eaten piles sticking up in the water in front of me. +They were the remains of a large dock which had been covered with +warehouses and offices connected with the shipping of the port. The +late Thomas Trounce, of this city, owned the property and managed it. +Imagine what the arrival of a large San Francisco steamer with 1,000 +or 1,500 passengers and 1,000 tons of freight on this dock meant? All +these passengers and all this freight were for Victoria. +The freight was transferred to small steamers for this city, and +also carted up by road. + +We ourselves landed here from the steamer _Northerner_ with six +hundred others in February, 1859, and came around to Victoria in a +small steamer and landed at the Hudson's Bay Company's wharf. There +were several stages plying also, the fare being "only one dollar." +The "'Squimalt" road of that day was not that of to-day. It branched +off the present Esquimalt Road at Admiral's Road and ran eastward +parallel with the present road, climbing up a very steep grade before +reaching Lampson Street, and then keeping on straight till reaching +Craigflower Road. Then it branched into the present road again at +Everett's Exchange. This great change in 'Squimalt has not taken +place in late years. The loss of the naval station lately does not +seem to have made a deal of difference to its appearance. It dates +back to the "wooden walls" of old England, and the appearance on the +scene of the ironclad of later years. Whatever was the cause, the +effect is there, and I suppose good reason could be found for the +great change. Melancholy it was to me, who had seen the place full of +life, jollity and laughter as bluejackets and scarlet-coated marines +by scores landed with plenty of money in their pockets, and maybe +three days to spend it in. They were soon on the road to Victoria, +stopping at the wayside houses as they jogged along, singing and +laughing like a lot of schoolboys let loose from school. + +On one of these occasions a laughable incident occurred, as scores of +these bluejackets and marines passed up Esquimalt Road. A squad or +more might have been seen walking along, headed by a bluejacket +playing a lively tune on a fife or tin whistle. One or two were +dancing to the tune, when all at once the music stopped, as a halt +was made, the command being "'Alt all 'ands!" They had come opposite +a wayside house and the sign over the porch--saloon--had attracted +their attention. One of the sailors had commenced to spell out the +sign. "What's this blooming sign say? A hess, and a hay and a hell +and a double ho, and a hen--saloon! Why blast my blooming h'eyes, +mates, it's a blooming pub! All 'ands come in and take a drink," +and you may be sure "all 'ands" forthwith filed into the saloon and +"smiled," to use a Western phrase. + + "For Jack's the boy for work, + And Jack's the boy for play; + And Jack's the lad, + When girls are sad, + To kiss their tears away." + +These good old days of 'Squimalt, I am afraid, are gone for ever with +her prestige as a naval station taken from her. Shall we see her rise +again as a commercial port, as a headquarters of the C.P.R.? Shall +the echoes of commerce take the place of the echoes of Jack's +laughter and song? Let us hope so, and so end my little reminiscences +of 'Squimalt's early times. + +Since writing this I have come across a cutting in my scrap book from +the _Colonist_ of May 17th, 1870, which gives the account of the +arrival of the first and only flying squadron (under Admiral Hornby), +which ever arrived here. By the by, we were promised flying squadrons +in lieu of stationary squadrons on this station. When is the first to +arrive? As there was a flagship here with two other vessels, at this +time, my readers may imagine the number of men in Esquimalt +harbor at that date; not less than three thousand five hundred, I am +sure, and how lively this must have made Esquimalt and Victoria. The +whole population, figuratively speaking, turned out to welcome these +six vessels as they came in from Race Rocks under full sail. It was +a beautiful sight. The _Zealous_ (armor-plated), Admiral Farquhar, +welcomed Admiral Hornby of the _Liverpool_, flagship of the +flying squadron. + +[Illustration: First bridge over the Gorge.] + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +OLD QUADRA STREET CEMETERY. + + + "Yet even these bones from insult to protect, + Some frail memorial still erected nigh." + + "Each in his narrow cell forever laid, + The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep." + + --Thomas Gray. + +I must first apologize for altering two words in this quotation from +this most beautiful poem that caused the celebrated General Wolfe to +say that he would rather be the author of it than have taken Quebec. + +I am moved to write these lines by the fact that these bones require +protecting from the vandalism of certain persons unknown, also I have +been approached by pioneers several times to write about this +desecration of the last resting-place of our pioneers. + +It was in 1859 or early '60 that the Quadra Street Cemetery was +opened, all the bones from the cemetery on Johnson and Douglas +Streets being exhumed and carried to Quadra Street in carts. I have +stood several times and watched the operation of digging up and +carting away of the remains from the first cemetery. It was situated +on the corner of Johnson and Douglas Streets, the brick building on +the south-west corner being built on the site, and it must have +extended into the streets also, as some years later skeletons were +found by workmen digging trenches for water pipes. There were +many naval men buried there, and the dates on some of the headboards +and stones in Quadra Street Cemetery show an earlier date than the +opening of it, there being two burials from war vessels, one in 1846, +H. M. S. _Cormorant_, and one in 1852. These early dates show that +Her Majesty's vessels were in Esquimalt at that time. Naval men and +Hudson's Bay Company's employees were the large majority of those +buried in the first cemetery. As a boy, I had a great weakness for +funerals, and living only a block from Quadra Street, I attended +scores in my day. I naturally liked the naval funerals best, for +there were soldiers and sailors, and bands of music, with three +volleys over the grave, so I missed few. The funerals came from +Esquimalt, generally by water, in large boats propelled by oars, +and landed at the Hudson's Bay Company's wharf. + +By the inscriptions, a large majority were young men and sailors, and +many were the result of accidents in Esquimalt harbor by drowning. + +I well remember the funeral of Captain Bull, of H. M. surveying ship +_Plumper_, who died at the age of twenty-seven years, the coffin +being fastened to a gun carriage and pulled by bluejackets. The state +of Victoria's streets at that time was such that it required a deal +of power to propel any vehicle, and especially was this the case with +Quadra Street. I have often seen a funeral come to a dead standstill +and the hearse dug out of the mud, as also teams loaded with stones +for monuments in the cemetery. + +We will suppose the hearse has been dug out, and in the cemetery near +the grave, in many cases men might be seen bailing out the grave, one +below and one on top; especially was this the case with the Roman +Catholic ground. And I have known when it was necessary to hold +the coffin down in the water with shovels or have a man get down and +stand on the coffin until enough soil was thrown on it to keep it +down. What must the friends have thought at this time, as the dirty +water was forcing its way into the coffin? In the majority of burials +there was no grave-case, which helped to make matters worse. + +[Illustration: Quadra Street Cemetery.] + +I have always paid periodical visits to this cemetery, the chief +reason being that my mother was buried there when I was fifteen years +old. She expressed a wish to be carried to her grave instead of being +taken in a hearse, and it was the first instance I can remember in +Victoria, although it may have been done earlier. + +Both Bishops Cridge and Garrett, the clergymen who conducted the +burial services over her, are alive to-day. + +Some four years ago, I had a marble headstone put on her grave, which +was enclosed with a fence, and last fall I saw it there although +buried in weeds. A few weeks ago a lady friend asked me if my +mother's name was Jane; for that she had, in walking through the +cemetery, come across a stone which must have been hers. I went up to +investigate, and after some hours' search found the stone, but the +enclosure was gone, and I had a time locating the grave, to replace +the stone. In compiling the information given in this article, I made +many visits lately, and I can say that it is a disgrace to a +civilized community to have the last resting-place of Victoria's +pioneers in such a condition--marble and sandstone monuments lying in +all directions, broken either by falling over naturally, or with +rocks by some vandal. + +It is a mistake to suppose that there are few remaining relations of +these long-buried dead. At least there are fifty per cent. of them +represented by relations to-day, as I shall show later on, and I hope +the state of affairs as here related, may cause them to move at +once to right matters. + +I might say that the individual plots were owned outright by the +relations, and others, for they have certain title to them. +Individual comments are made on all those that I know or knew of, and +several large, heavy stones I could not lift to get inscriptions, as +they lay on their face. In several cases wood headboards have +outlived stone, the inscription on the former being more legible than +the stone. The action of the elements in many cases has entirely +erased some, especially from sandstone, although newer than the wood +boards. + +One of the inscriptions I have read many a time as being quaint, was +so far as I can remember, thus: + + + ". . . Physicians were in vain; + Till Christ did please to give her ease, release from all her pain." + +John S. Titcombe, pilot; monument erected by I. O. O. F.; died 1869, +aged 41 years. + +Matthew Hollow, died Feb. 28, 1871, aged 39 years; erected by +Victoria Lodge, I. O. O. F. + +Thos. Pritchard, died Oct. 31, 1883, aged 79; also Margaret his wife, +died Dec. 3, 1871, 64 years. Note--This is the most pretentious +monument in the cemetery. They leave grandchildren. + +James Orr, died 1871, aged 32 years; buried by St. Andrew's Masons +and I. O. O. F. + +Alice Heathcote, wife of J. W. Hutchinson, jailer; died March 30, +1868, aged 27 years. + +Margaret Langley, wife of Edward Langley; died 1866; leaves +relatives. + +James McCulloch, engineer steamer _Sir James Douglas_; died April 2, +1870, aged 46; also Margaret, wife of above, died Dec. 3, 1871, aged +64 years; also Wm. M. Doran, mate of same ship, who was accidentally +drowned in Victoria harbor, July 7, 1868, aged 45 years; erected by +officers and men of steamer. + +Jessie Russell, wife of Robt. J. Russell (Russell's Station); died +Aug. 29, 1860, aged 42. + +John Wilkie, Wharf Street merchant; died April 28, 1871, aged 38 +years. + +James Murray Reid (Reid & Macdonald), partner of Senator Macdonald, +and father of Mrs. W. J. Macdonald. + +James Hepburn, died April 16, 1869; 58 years. + +Nathaniel Milby Hicks, clerk C. M. C., died Oct. 31, 1870, age 52. +(Member of first municipal council Victoria city.) + +Capt. John W. Waitt, father of late M. W. Waitt; died 1870, aged 67. + +Frederick and Arthur--children of Mrs. J. W. Williams. + +Thos. Carter, of Hillside Farm, died 1869, aged 52 years; was husband +of Mrs. C. Booth (and father of William Carter, provincial assessor's +office). Note--Mr. Carter contracted a bad cold in the cemetery at +the funeral of a brother Mason, and was heard to remark in an +undertone to a friend as he was looking down into the grave, "And who +will be the next?" Strange to say, he himself was the next, for +within ten days his brother Masons met there to bury him. + +Mrs. Harriet Jameson; died 1868, aged 18 years. + +John Work, Chief Factor of H. B. Co., died Dec. 22, 1861, aged 70; +and his son, Henry, died June 19, 1856, aged 12 years. (John Work was +well known to all old-timers.) + +Cecilia, wife of J. S. Helmcken, M.D., died Feb. 4, 1865, aged 30 +years; also Douglas Claude, died Jan. 17, 1854, aged 3 months; +Margaret Jane, died March --, 18 months; also Ogilvy Roderick, died +March 5, 1 month--children of the above. (The wife of Dr. J. S. and +mother of Dr. J. D. and H. D. Helmcken, and Mrs. -- McTavish and Mrs. +Higgins.) + +Martha Coles; died March 13, 1865, aged 30 years. + +Geo. Hooper; died March 15, 1865, aged 53 years. + +Jane Neely; died April 1, 1865, aged 28. + +Wm. Brooke Naylor; died Oct. 2, 1866, aged 42; sheriff of Vancouver +Island. (Has a son here, Brooke Naylor.) + +Cecilia Cameron, wife of David Cameron, C. J. of colony; died Nov. +26, 1859; also David Cameron, C. J., died May 14, 1872, aged 68 +years. + +Jno. Walton; died June 17, 1867, aged 55 years. + +Abner H. Francis; died -- 25, 1872, aged 59 years. + +Chas W. Wallace, died March 13, 1865, aged 65; Jane Adison, died Feb. +5, 1854, aged 25 years; Kate, died July 11, 1869; Abby, died April 2, +1866; Edward, died Jan. 22, 1864; Charlie, died July 19, 1867--wife, +children, father and sister of Charles W. Wallace (father of Mrs. E. +E. Blackwood). + +Mary Kamopiopio, wife of Wm. R. Kaule Lelehe; died Dec. 20, 1865, age +16. (Native of Hawaii.) + +Henry Courtenay; born Oct. 27, 1869, died Sept. 14, 1871; 2 years. +(Drowned at Burrard Inlet.) + +Helen Amelia Dallas; born Feb. 20, 1859, died Jan. 24, 1860. +(Granddaughter of Sir James Douglas.) + +Barbara, wife of Thomas Mann; age 25 years. + +Mary F. Semple; died Oct. 4, 1866; 1 year 10 months. + +Wm. Honey; died Dec. 3, 1866, age 54 years. + +Caroline Harrey Ewing; died June 3, 1864, aged 45 years. + +Lucinda Mary, wife of Robert Grienslade; died Dec. 6, 1868, +age 18 years. + +Harriet, wife of Thomas James; died Oct. 19, 1868, aged 18 years. + +James Wilson Trahey; died Dec. 2, 1868; 38 years. + +Isaac Cameron; died Feb. 6, 1870; 29 years. + +John B. McClearn; died Jan. 29, 1870, age 42. + +Andrew Phillips; died Jan. 24, 1870, age 10 years. + +Bridget, wife of Timothy Roberts; died Nov. 7, 1872, age 40 years. + +John Bowes Thompson; died Aug. 6, 1870, age 49. + +Hy. Francis Lee; died June 22, 1872, age 36 years. + +Charlotte Dandridge; died March 7, 1863, age 70 years. + +B. A. Wolsey. (Erected by her father.) + +Hugh Cavin Walker; died May 16, 1868, age 26 years. + +Freddy, child of J. W. and M. A. Williams; died March 31, 1870, +age 4 years. + +Wm. Emery; died May 2, 1871, age 33 years. + +C. A. Schmid; died Nov. 29, 1871, age 48 years. + +Charlotte, wife of John Holden; died March, 1863, age 28 years. + +Naval Corner. + +Monument erected to officers and men of H. M. S. _Satellite_--Daniel +Evans, John Stanton, James Butland, John Willmore, Richard Stone, +all drowned June 6, 1860; Wm. Brewer, died 1856; John Blackler, died +1859; Wm. Kett, died 1859; Richard Brown, died 1857; William Stout, +died 1858; William Bell, died 1858; George Kembery, died 1860. + +Monument to men of H. M. S. _Sutlej_--George Lush, John Guff, +Edward Tiller, Joseph Neckless, died 1863 and 1864. + +Monument to Benjamin Topp, H. M. S. _Cormorant_; died Oct. 22, +1846, age 40. + +John Miller, H. M. S. _Thetis_, drowned in Esquimalt harbor June +3, 1852, age 22; W. R. Plummer, H. M. S. _Thetis_, age 23; James +Smith, H. M. S. _Thetis_, age 31; Charles Parsons, H. M. S. +_Thetis_, age 35--all drowned between Esquimalt and Victoria +harbors, Aug. 22, 1852. Note--This headboard is wood, and although +nearly 50 years old, is in splendid preservation, painted white with +black letters, which stand out as plain as the day they were put on. + +Monument to men of H. M. S. _Plumper_--James D. Trewin, died +June 12, 1858, age 32 years; George Williams, Feb. 4, 1858, age 37 +years. + +Monument to William Johnson, H. M. S. _Hecate_; died Jan. 3, 1862. + +Monument to men of H. M. S. _Sutlej_; died 1864 and 1866--Thomas +Depnall, John Reese, George Crute, William Douglas, Albert Gilbert, +Alexander Borthwick. + +Monument to men of H. M. S. _Tribune_, 1865. + +Chief Engineer of H. M. S. _Sparrowhawk_; died 1866. + +Paymaster of H. M. S. _Devastation_; died 1864. + +Engineer of H. M. S. _Topaz_; died 1861. + +Commander Robson, of H. M. Gunboat _Forward_; died 1861, from +effects of fall from his horse. + +Engineer Charlton; died 1861. (Accidentally shot himself.) + +Captain John A. Bull, master of H. M. surveying vessel +_Plumper_; died --, 1860, age 27 years. + +Granite monument to Edwin Evans, only son of Rev. E. Evans, D.D., age +20 years. + +I have already given an account of this young man's death and burial +in one of my former reminiscences; how he was drowned off Beacon Hill +one December day. He undressed and swam out after a duck he had +shot, got caught in the kelp and was drowned, his poor father walking +up and down the beach all that night, calling "Edwin! Edwin! My son!" +He was buried in a snowstorm, and great sympathy was shown by the +public, by the crowds which filled the cemetery that day. Dr. Evans +was Methodist minister when the church was built that is now being +demolished. + +Monument to Frederick Pemberton, Edward Scott, Eber and Grace, the +four children of Bishop Cridge, who all died within two months, from +diphtheria, in 1864-5; also his sister, Miss Cridge. + +Jane, aged 47, wife of Thomas Lea Fawcett, and mother of Rowland, +Edgar and Arthur Fawcett, the latter of London, Eng.; died January, +1864. + +Thomas H. Botterell; died 1866, age 27 years. + +Eliza A., daughter of George and Isabella Simpson; died 1872, aged 16 +years 8 months (sister of George Simpson, H. M. customs.) + +James Murray Yale, chief trader, H. B. Co.; died May 7, 1871, age 71 +years. + +Charlotte B., wife of Joseph Corin; died July 12, 1863, age 24 years. +(She was the wife of partner of Charles Hayward.) + +Elizabeth Caroline, wife of Edward G. Alston; died January, 1865, age +27 years. (Mr. Alston was registrar-general.) + +Charlotte, wife of John Dutnall (John Dutnall was sexton of Christ +Church, and formerly in charge of one of the H. B. Co.'s farms. Has a +brother at Albert Head, farming.) + +Antonia Hernandez; died March 22, 1862, age 32 years. + +Henry Proctor Seelie, of London, England; died July 23, 1864, age 24 +years. + +Cecil, fourth son of G. T. Gordon; died April 20, 1861, age 5 years 4 +months. + +Anna Maria, widow of the late William Yardly; died March 5, 1864, age +59 years. (Mother of Mrs. Hy. Wootton.) + +Samuel Hocking; died Sept. 15, 1862, age 37 years 8 months. + +Louis Richards, native of Cornwall; died Oct. 21, 1872, age 21 years. + +James Brown, of Kingston, Canada; died Feb. 9, 1873, age 37 years. + +Alexander Deans; died October, 1858, age 17 months. + +Mary Jane Deans; died July 8, 1868, age 5 years. + +John Spence; died Sept. 29, 1865, age 67 years. + +Mrs. Johnson, wife of J. H. Johnson, engineer H. B. Co. steamer +_Beaver_; died Dec. 22, 1858. (Johnson Street named after him.) + +George Leggatt--headstone is illegible. + +Barbara, wife of Thomas Mann; age 25 years. + +John Miles; died January, 1861; age 35 years. + +William Wallis; died Jan. 3, 1862. + +Ann Sayward; died August 17, 1870, age 46 years. (Mother of Walter +Chambers and Joseph Sayward.) + +James Chambers; died Dec. 7, 1859 (father of Walter Chambers), age 38 +years. + +Joseph Austen; died July 2, 1871, age 89 years. (A pioneer of 1858, +and also of San Francisco, where he was a prominent member of the +"vigilance committee." When he was made a judge, sentenced men to +death during the stirring times of the early fifties in that city.) + +John Parks; died June 6, 1862, age 27 years. + +Millicent Page, wife of William Page; died Feb. 19, 1864, age 55 +years. + +Kenneth Nicholson; died Nov. 10, 1863, aged 35. + +John Sparks, killed by explosion on steamer _Cariboo_, Aug. 2, +1861, age 28 years. + +John Murray; died May 6, 1872, age 44 years. + +William Henry Downes; died June 17, 1872, age 47 years. + +Thomas, son of W. H. and A. J. Huxtable; died Feb. 8, 1869, age 4 +years 9 months. + +Anne, wife of Joseph H. Brown; died Aug. 16, 1871, age 31 years. + +Jos. H. Brown; died July, 1869, age 39 years. + +William and Edith, two children of William B. and Eliza Townsend; +died in 1868 and 1871. (William B. Townsend was mayor of +Westminster.) + +Hannah, second daughter of John and Christiana Kinsman; died Feb. 26, +1865, age 7 years. (Daughter of the late Alderman Kinsman.) + +Agnes Laumeisler; died Sept. 4, 1861, age 36 years. + +Cecil Montague, second son of W. A. G. Young; died June 22, 1865, age +5 years. (Mr. Young was colonial secretary in 1865.) + +Roman Catholic Section. + +There are very few of the monuments left standing here. Besides those +naturally destroyed by time, many have been broken by stones into +many pieces. + +Carroll monument.--This, the second largest and costliest in the +cemetery, has been very badly used, but it is also one of the oldest. +Erected by Ellen Carroll, in memory of her beloved husband, John D. +Carroll, died July 11, 1862, age 38; also in memory of her beloved +babes, George Washington, born Feb. 22, 1860, died same day; John +Thomas, born July 26, died same day; Mary Margaret, born Sept. 29, +1862, and died same day. (Who could blame this bereaved wife and +mother if she didn't long remain a widow?) + +Sosthenes Driard, a native of France, born 1819, died Feb. 15, 1873. +(This marble stone was in several pieces, and difficult to read, but +I persevered, as he was so well-known a man in early days, as mine +host of the Colonial Hotel and afterwards of the Driard House.) + +Marie Manciet; died Oct. --, 1868, age 21 years. + +Mary Hall; died May 31, 1860, age 40 years. (This headboard is one of +the best preserved in the cemetery; the black letters stand out as +clear and bright as if just executed, but the white paint has nearly +disappeared.) + +W. L. Williams; died Dec. 17, 1862, age 20 years. + +Jane Forbes; died July 22, 1859, age 26 years. + +John Clarke; died Dec. 27, 1860, age 31 years. + +James Farrelly; died Jan. --, 1866, age 28 years. + +Maria Ragazzoni; died --, 1864. + +Marie Newburger, died --, 1861, age 12 years. + +Dr. N. M. Clerjon; died Feb. 25, 1861; age 53 years. + +To the memory of my darling little Eva, who died July 14, 1863, age 7 +years and 5 months; also her infant brother, age 3 days. J. S. +Drummond (on a large flat stone.) + +Charles H. Blenkinsop, H. B. Co.; died March 22, 1864. + +Sacred to the memory of John Wood, from his wife--1864. Note--This is +one of the best preserved headstones and enclosures in the cemetery, +the latter being of iron, and 43 years old. My friend, Mr. Higgins, +in his book "The Mystic Spring," gives the story of this clever +actor, and his wife also, so I will not enlarge on it. + +John Sparks, age 28 years; killed by the explosion of steamer +_Cariboo_, Aug. 2, 1861. + +Smith Baird Jamieson, killed by the explosion of steamer +_Yale_--April, 1861; Archibald Jamieson, and James Baird +Jamieson, killed by the explosion of steamer _Cariboo_ in +Victoria harbor, Aug. 2, 1861, three brothers, sons of Robert +Jamieson, Brodick, Isle of Arran, Scotland.--I refer my readers to +Mr. Higgins' book for the story of these brothers also. I remember +the morning of the explosion of the _Cariboo_. It woke up the +whole town. I think her bones lie in the mud alongside Turpel's ways +in Songhees reserve. + +William Alexander Mouat, chief trader H. B. Co.; died April 11, 1871, +aged 50 years; also Clarissa Elizabeth, daughter of the above, age 8 +years. (Father of Mrs. Richard Jones.) + +Eleanor M. Johnston; died Feb. 27, 1872. + +Elizabeth A. Kennedy; born at Fort Simpson, Nov. 1835, died at Fort +Victoria, February, 1850; also Dr. John Kennedy, chief trader, H. B. +Co., died 1859, age 52 years; also Fanny Kennedy, age 25 years; James +B. Ogilvy, died Dec. 23, 1860, aged 5 years; John D. B. Ogilvy, +Victoria Lodge, No. 783, F. & A. M., age 30 years; died May 12, 1865. +(Father, mother, daughter and nephew, and Dr. Kennedy had two sons, +one master of the Colonial school in 1859, and one clerk in H. B. +Co.'s store.) + +William Wright; died July --, 1870, age 53 years. + +John Hender Wood, master of ship _Ellen_; died May 12, 1868, age +41 years. + +George H. Booth; died Sept. 1, 1867, age 1 year 8 months. +(Wood headboard is in good state of preservation.) + +Henry Francis Lee; died June 22, 1872, age 36 years. + +Mary Ann Dougherty; died Sept. 5, 1863. + +Paul Medana; died Nov. 14, 1868. + +James Webster; died Sept. 15, 1862, age 37 years 8 months. + +Millicent Page, wife of Wm. Page; died Feb. 19, 1864, age 55 years. + +Kenneth Nicholson; died Nov. 10, 1863, age 35 years. + +Charles Dodd (Chief Factor H. B. Co.); died June 2, 1860, age 52 +years. + +Eleanor M. Johnston; died June 2, 1860. + +Victoria's First Cemetery. + +The finding of the skeletons in the excavation of Johnson Street this +week, recalls the last find nearby, a few years ago, in laying +waterpipes on Douglas Street, and I find, in referring to an article +I wrote five years ago on clippings from the _Victoria Gazette_, +Victoria's first newspaper, that "the Council have ordered the +removal of the bodies from the cemetery on Johnson Street to the new +cemetery on Quadra." I can well remember seeing this removal; the +bones where the bodies were not entire being thrown into carts, and +taken to the Quadra Street Cemetery. I might state that with the +exception of a few Hudson's Bay Company's employees, those buried +there were men from Her Majesty's fleet at Esquimalt. This may seem +a long time ago for vessels of war to be at Esquimalt, but by the +tombstones in Quadra Street Cemetery, I find there were some of the +seamen from H. M. S. _Cormorant_ buried in 1846. One of these was +Benjamin Topp, and also John Miller, of H. M. S. _Thetis_, who +were drowned in Esquimalt harbor; also W. R. Plummer, James Smith, +and Charles Parsons, all drowned between Esquimalt and Victoria, +August 22, 1852; also James D. Trewin and George Williams, February +4th, 1858. These were all removed to Quadra Street the following +year. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +PIONEER SOCIETY'S BANQUET. + + +Some Reminiscences. + +On the 28th April, 1871, or forty-one years ago, a meeting was held +in Smith's Hall, which was situated in the building now occupied by +Hall and Gospel on Government Street. The meeting was called to +organize a society of the pioneers of British Columbia, and +especially of Victoria. Among those present, and one who took a +prominent part in its work, was William P. Sayward. By the death of +this pioneer I am the sole remaining member of those who founded the +society. By Mr. Sayward's death this city and province loses a man +whom any city would be proud of. Knowing him as I had from boyhood, I +can speak feelingly. He was one of the kindest-hearted men, a man who +had no enemies that I ever heard of, but hosts of friends. Who ever +went to him for charity and was refused? Who ever asked forgiveness +of a debt and was repulsed? Although he was victimized many times, in +his case virtue was its own reward. From small beginnings, when the +lumber business was first started on Humboldt Street, on the shores +of James Bay, to the present time, the Sayward business has gone on +prospering, having been built on a firm foundation by a kindly and +honest man, who in February, 1905, passed from our sight to a better +life. The society elected as its first officers the following: +President, John Dickson; vice-president, Jules Rueff; treasurer, +E. Grancini; secretary, Edgar Fawcett; directors, W. P. Sayward, +H. E. Wilby, Alexander Young, and Sosthenes Driard. Long may the +society continue. Mr. Sayward's son, Joseph, has since his father's +death disposed of the business, of which he became the owner, to +a large corporation, and has retired from business, one of our +wealthy men. + +[Portrait: William P. Sayward.] + +Nothing better illustrates what I feel to-day, as the last of the +charter members who met together at Smith's Hall, on Government +Street, over Hall & Gospel's office, on the 28th April, 1871, than +the following lines from my favorite poet, Thomas Moore: + + "Oft in the stilly night, + Ere slumber's chain has bound me, + Fond memory brings the light + Of other days around me. + + "When I remember all + The friends so linked together + I've seen around me fall, + Like leaves in wintry weather. + + "I feel like one who treads alone + Some banquet hall deserted; + Whose lights are fled, whose garlands dead-- + And all but he departed." + +I have applied this to my visit to Smith's Hall, of which I shall +tell you. Since the death of my old friend, William P. Sayward, some +months ago, I have reflected often on the fact that I was the last of +that little band. The other night I woke up, and remained awake for +some time; and my thoughts wandered to pioneer days, and from that to +the gathering of pioneers this year, which, I understood, was to be +a more extended gathering than usual. I thought I should like to be +there for the sake of old times, but could not make up my mind to +brave the disagreeable weather at this time of year. + +After considering the matter, I decided to write, if I did not go; +and, further, I decided to pay a visit to Smith's Hall first. So next +morning I called on Mr. Kinsman, who kindly showed me upstairs, and +over the old place. I might well say, "the old place," for it looked +old and deserted, like the banquet hall spoken of by Moore. + +With my mind's eye I pictured the scene of thirty-five years ago--I +was at the hall early, being enthusiastic on the subject, and noted +each well-known face as the guests came up the stairs and took their +seats, until about forty had collected. + +There was Thomas Harris, who had been the first mayor of the city. He +was very stout, and complained of the exertion in climbing up the +stairs, which was passed off as a joke, of course. + +There was Major McDonell, a retired army officer; Robert H. Austen, a +pioneer of San Francisco, whose uncle, Judge Austen (an early +resident), had been a prominent member of the "vigilance committee" +of San Francisco in the early fifties, when men were tried by that +committee, condemned to death, and hanged, as I myself was a witness +to on two occasions. + +There was William P. Sayward, the father of Joseph Sayward, and one +of the best men Victoria ever produced; Patrick McTiernan, a +well-known business man; Captain Gardner, one of Victoria's pilots; +Henry E. Wilby, father of the Messrs. Wilby of Douglas Street, +who was Portuguese Consul, and a resident of Esquimalt; Jules Rueff +and E. Grancini, both Wharf Street merchants; Andrew C. Elliott, a +barrister, and afterwards premier of the province; Honore Passerard, +a Frenchman and property holder of Johnson Street; Robert Ridley, who +claimed he was the original "Old Bob Ridley" who crossed the plains +to San Francisco in '49; Felix Leslonis, the Hudson's Bay Company's +cooper, who was a Frenchman, and used to sing a song called "Beau +Nicolas" at charity concerts, and usually brought down the house. + +There was S. Driard, another Frenchman, and proprietor of the Driard +House, and who being, like Mayor Harris, very corpulent and +asthmatic, complained, like him, of the "upper room"; James Wilcox, +the proprietor of Royal Hotel, now proved to have been the "second" +brick hotel built in Victoria; William Spence, a contractor, and +after whom Spence's Rock was named; John Dickson, the tinsmith and +hardware man of Yates Street--a quiet, goodhearted man, an American; +James Lowe, a Wharf Street merchant, of Lowe Bros.; Frank Campbell, +of "Campbell's Corner"--genial, goodhearted Frank, a man without an +enemy; Thomas L. Stahlschmidt, of Henderson & Burnaby, Wharf Street +merchants, and father of Mr. Stahlschmidt, of R. Ward & Co. + +There were Robert Burnaby, already mentioned; J. B. Timmerman, +accountant and real estate agent, a Frenchman; Benjamin P. Griffin, +mine host of the Boomerang, who had been a friend of my father's in +Sydney, Australia, and was accountant in a bank there; and lastly, +your humble servant, who was secretary of the meeting. There were +others present, but they did not see fit to become members, among +them being Ben Griffin. + +As I said before, they passed in review before me as I stood there +thinking; and to-day I think no one lives to tell the tale of that +gathering. + +I am fully in accord with the suggestion that there be a reunion of +all pioneers of early Victoria; but I think it should be in the +summer, when as many as possible could be there, and it might be made +very interesting by a recital of the personal recollections of those +present. I should like to hear Mr. Higgins, for I am sure he has not +yet told all he knows of the early history of Victoria. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +VICTORIA DISTRICT CHURCH. + + +I read with a great deal of pleasure the article on Christ Church by +Canon Beanlands. These reminiscences of former days in Victoria have +a charm for me that is not easy to describe. More particularly is +this the case in the present instance, as my very earliest +recollections of this fair city are connected with Victoria District +Church. My mother was a devout church woman, and I attended her in +her frequent and regular attendance. She encouraged me to join the +choir as a boy in 1861 and taught me music, and my first position in +the church in connection with its musical services was as organ +blower. I afterwards took my seat with the adults, singing treble, +then alto and tenor, and I have now the treble score of several +anthems copied by myself at that time. + +I shall now describe the church as I remember it in 1859 and 1862. +The inside was an oblong square. The entrance was at the south-west +corner, and there was a gallery across the west end, where the old +organ and the choir were then situated. Under this gallery were pews, +one of which was occupied by our family. The vestry was at the +south-west corner, and had entrance from under the gallery as well as +from outside. The inside of the building was lathed and plastered. +There was a low tower at the south-west corner, dovecote shaped, +where the pigeons made their nests and brought forth their young. +There were two bells in the tower, one larger than the other, +which when rung sounded ding-dong, ding-dong three times a day, +morning, afternoon and evening of Sunday, and also Wednesday +evenings. A plan shows a square contrivance opposite the entrance. +This was Governor Douglas' pew, and was occupied by the Governor and +his family regularly each Sunday morning. He walked down the aisle in +his uniform in the most dignified manner, and led the congregation in +the responses in an audible voice. By the plan an organ and choir are +shown in the gallery as well as one in the chancel, but the dates +1859 and 1862 explain that in 1862 there was a new organ, and the old +one removed, and the gallery done away with. It was in this gallery +my services commenced as organ blower, and the only one I can now +remember as singing in the choir at that early date was John Butts, a +young man lately from Australia. He had a nice tenor voice, and was +very regular in attendance for some time, until he fell from grace. +He was the town crier afterwards and a noted character. Mr. Higgins +speaks of him in the "Mystic Spring." + +[Illustration: Victoria district church.] + +One Sunday morning in 1862 or 1863, while Bishop Hills was preaching, +a man walked into the church and cried out, "My Lord, the church is +on fire!" Judge Pemberton, one of the officers of the church, with +others got on to the ceiling through a manhole above the gallery, and +walked on the rafters to where the fire was located. He missed his +footing and came through the lath and plaster, but luckily did not +fall to the floor below, but, like Mahomet's coffin, hung suspended +by his arms until rescued from above. The congregation were soon +outside, and with willing help the fire was soon extinguished. The +church was built and opened in August, 1856, under the supervision of +Mr. William Leigh, who was in charge of Uplands Farm, Cadboro +Bay, and was in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company. Mr. Leigh +was a man of very good attainments, being a good musician and +contributing to the various entertainments of those days, when +regular entertainments by professionals were few and far between. He +subsequently was City Clerk, being the second to hold that position, +after Mr. Nathaniel M. Hicks, who was appointed clerk on the city +being incorporated. Mr. Hicks is buried in Quadra Street Cemetery, +and his headstone is in evidence to-day as a mute appeal to our city +fathers to put the place in order. I might say that Mr. Leigh was the +father of a numerous family, but I believe, with the exception of a +son, Ernest, who resides in San Francisco, and a granddaughter, Mrs. +George Simpson, who resides here, all have passed away. + +Victoria District church was destroyed by fire in 1869, one evening +about 10 o'clock, the alarm being given by a Catholic priest on his +way home, who with Mr. James Kennedy (who lived with me), was passing +over the hill. Of the early pioneer clergy connected with the church, +Mr. Cridge, the incumbent, was first; then Bishop Hills; the Rev. R. +J. Dundas, afterward rector of St. John's; Rev. Alexander C. Garrett, +now Bishop of Dallas, Texas, and Rev. George Crickmer, who +subsequently was sent to Langley or Yale. + +[Portrait: Bishop George Hills.] + +The organ used up to 1861 or 1862 was situated in the gallery, and +had three barrels, each of ten tunes, so that thirty tunes was the +limit. Mr. Seeley, who owned the Australian House, which stood until +lately at the north end of the Causeway, was an attendant at the +church, and being an organ-builder undertook to improvise a keyboard +attachment for this barrel organ. This keyboard was used on Sunday +mornings and on special occasions by Mrs. Atwood (Mrs. T. Sidney +Wilson of St. Charles Street.) At evening services the music +was produced by the barrels, worked by a handle, and the writer on +these occasions was the "organist." An amusing incident occurred one +Sunday evening when I, forgetting the number of verses of a hymn to +be sung, stopped playing, and the congregation commenced another +verse. Seeing that I had made an error I began again two notes +behind. This made confusion worse confounded, as may be supposed, but +having commenced I continued to the end of the verse. This being the +closing hymn, "Lord, Dismiss Us with Thy Blessing," I was not long in +making my exit from the church, as I did not wish to meet Mr. Cridge +or any of the church officers, being only a youth and anticipating +censure, but I forget if I got it. About this time a committee of +ladies of the church, among whom were Mrs. A. T. Bushby, mother of +Mrs. W. P. Bullen, and Mrs. Good, her sister, both daughters of the +Governor, Mrs. Senator Macdonald, and Mrs. Cridge collected a large +sum of money and sent to England for a fine pipe organ which I +suppose is the one in use to-day. The first organist of this organ +was a Mr. Whittaker, and of the choir, as near as I can remember +them, were the Misses Harriet and Annie Thorne, Mrs. T. Sidney +Wilson, Mrs. Macdonald and her two sisters the Misses Reid, Dr. J. C. +Davie, Alex. Davie, his brother, Mr. Willoughby, Robert Jenkinson, +Albert F. Hicks, John Bagnall, my brother Rowland and myself. Mr. +Walter Chambers, as a youth, was organ blower also about this time. +The first sexton and verger was William Raby, and the next John +Spelde, who had charge of the Quadra Street Cemetery, digging the +graves and collecting the fees for the same. + +I have spun this article out beyond what I intended, but I must be +excused as I don't know when I have said enough on pioneer days. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +CHRISTMAS IN PIONEER DAYS. + + + "... When I remember all the friends so linked together + ... Fond memory brings the light of other days around me." + +I have been requested to give my recollection of a Victoria Christmas +in the good old days, as to how it was spent and conditions +generally. In the first place, in speaking of "the good old days" of +the sixties, I would not convey the impression that they were +literally so good, for they were, so far as I can remember, some of +the hardest that Victoria has seen. + +There is a something in recollections of the past that have been +pleasant that is indescribable. It is easier felt than described, and +I have no doubt is felt by many old-timers in this city to-day. Ask +them to describe these feelings and they would be nonplussed. "Mark +Twain" was written to by the pioneers of California inviting him to +come and speak of the early days of San Francisco, when he was +himself a pioneer of the Pacific. What his reply was I now forget, +but it was something to this effect: "Do you wish to see an old man +overcome and weep as he recalls those pioneer days?" These were a +few words of what he said in reply to that invitation. "The good +old days" may not have been the most prosperous, nor the happiest +that "Mark Twain" may have spent, but there was a something, a +charm indescribable that he felt, but could not express. I feel +this way myself. + +It is Christmas and its surroundings in any age that help to make +these pleasing regrets. The incidents and the persons connected with +them are gone and can never be recalled. The friends we knew then, +whom we may have met at one of those Christmas gatherings, we see +them as they pass before our mental vision. Where are they all +to-day? The Quadra Street Cemetery might be able to tell, for each is +"in his narrow cell forever laid." + +I have rambled far enough, and it is time I got to my story. + +I would remark in passing that Christmas, to be genuine, should be +bright and frosty, with a flurry of snow, and this with walking +exercise makes the blood to flow freely, and makes one feel better +able to enjoy the festive occasion. + +Well, we had just such weather in those days, and such weather is +sadly lacking in these. Our climate has changed very much since then. +Less snow and cold and more rain now. Tinkle, tinkle, tinkle! The +merry sleigh bell! After the advent of the first snow, and when deep +enough, there might be heard the sleigh-bell, either on a grocer's or +butcher's sleigh, or on an improvised sleigh made from a dry-goods +case with a pair of runners attached, to which would be fastened a +pair of shafts from a buggy or wagon not now usable. Everyone who +owned a horse had a sleigh at little cost, and good use was made of +it while the snow lasted. Long drives in the country or to church, or +to a Christmas party or dance. I can see such a merry sleigh party +of young people, the girls well wrapped up peeping over their furs, +laughing and dodging the snowballs thrown by a party of boys +around the corner, who are always waiting for the next one to +come along. + + "Where is now the merry party I remember long ago, + Laughing round the Christmas fire, brightened by its ruddy glow; + Or in summer's balmy evenings, in the field upon the hay? + They have all dispersed and wandered, far away, far away!" + +We nearly all went to church--the Anglicans, and many Nonconformists +with them--on Christmas morning, and the Catholics on Christmas Eve. +But first of all there was the preparation for the event. About a +week before wagon-loads of young fir trees were brought in from the +outskirts, and every storekeeper and many householders procured +enough to decorate the front of the house or shop, a tree being tied +to each verandah post. In those days no shop was complete without its +wooden awning, as may be seen in many of the old photos of that +period. Imagine Government Street, both sides, from end to end, one +continuous line of green, relieved with, it might be, white; just +enough snow to cover the ground, "bright and crisp and even." + +I have often longed for such a Christmas in these degenerate times, +when rain is nearly always the order of the day. All the Christmas +shopping was done during Christmas week. The fancy goods stores of +those days were few--"Hibben & Carswell," "The London Bazaar," and +David Spencer. The former was then on Yates Street, corner of +Langley, and the other two in Government Street; and I must not +forget Thomas Gorrie on Fort Street. There was not the choice in toys +and fancy articles then. Children were satisfied with less, and were +just as happy. The beautiful and expensive dolls then were of +wax, and being susceptible to frost, were taken great care of. The +butchers' and grocers' shops were then as now a great attraction +at Christmas, and we had all to pay one visit at least to Johnny +Stafford's (afterwards Stafford & Goodacre), Thomas Harris' two +shops, and Fred. Reynolds', on the corner of Yates and Douglas, +and I doubt if a better show (for quality) is made to-day. + +At Christmas there was the usual influx of miners from far-off +Cariboo down to spend the winter in Victoria, with pockets well-lined +with nuggets. It was "easy come, easy go" with them, and liberal were +the purchases they made for their relations and friends. + +Christmas Eve, after dinner, mother or father or both with the +children were off to buy the last of the presents, visit the shops or +buy their Christmas dinner, for many left it till then. Turkey might +not have been within their reach, but geese, wild or tame, took their +place. Sucking pig was my favorite dish. Wild duck and grouse (fifty +cents per pair), with fine roasts of beef. Of course plum pudding was +in evidence with poor as well as rich, although eggs at Christmas +were one dollar per dozen. + +A great feature of Christmas time was shooting for turkeys and geese +at several outlying places, and raffles for turkeys at several of the +principal saloons and hotels. The place I best remember was the Brown +Jug, kept by Tommy Golden. + +A special feature of the saloons on Christmas Eve was "egg-nog," and +all we young fellows dropped in for a glass on our way to midnight +mass at the Catholic Church on Humboldt Street. It was one of +the attractions of Christmas Eve, and the church was filled to +overflowing, and later on there was standing room only. We went +to hear the singing, which was best obtainable, Mademoiselle La +Charme, Mrs. A. Fellows (daughter of Sir Rowland Hill), Charles +Lombard, Mr. Wolff, and Mr. Schmidt. These were assisted by the +sisters, many of whom had nice voices. Amongst the well-dressed city +people were many Cariboo miners--trousers tucked in their boots, said +trousers held in position with a belt, and maybe no coat or vest on. +When the time came for the collection, all hands dug down in their +pockets and a generous collection was the result. My old friend, Tom +Burnes, was one of the collectors on one occasion. There were not +sufficient collecting plates, and Mr. Burnes took his hat and went +amongst the crowd who were standing up in the rear of the church. +As he passed through a group of miners, friend Tom was heard to +say, "Now, boys, be liberal," and the response was all that could +be desired; for, as I said before, it was "easy come, easy go." +"Twelve-thirty," service is over, we are off to bed, for we must be +up betimes in the morning for service at 11 o'clock. + +"When I remember all the friends so linked together," who met on +those Christmas mornings long ago, I think, how many are there left? +Those of the choir who led in the anthem, "And There Were Shepherds +Keeping Watch," and the hymns, "Christians, Awake," and "Hark, the +Herald Angels Sing." Of those who met at the church door afterwards +to shake hands all round, "A Merry Christmas," "The Compliments of +the Season," and many other good wishes--of all these a few are left, +amongst them Bishop Cridge, Senator and Mrs. Macdonald, Dr. Helmcken, +David W. Higgins, Judges Walkem and Drake, Mrs. Wootton, Charles +Hayward, Edward Dickinson, Mrs. Ella, Mr. and Mrs. George Richardson, +Mrs. Pemberton, and Mrs. Jesse, and maybe a few others I cannot +now remember. Well, all things must come to an end, and so must this +reminiscence of an "Early Christmas in Victoria," and in closing I +wish all those mentioned here a "Happy Christmas and many of them." + +(Note.--Several of those mentioned are since dead.--E. F.) + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +THE QUEEN'S BIRTHDAY FORTY YEARS AGO. + + +The reproduction of an item in the _Colonist_ of "Forty Years +Ago," giving a list of the committee formed to prepare a programme +for the celebration of the Queen's Birthday, called my attention to +the names of that committee. They are nearly all familiar. His +Worship the Mayor, I think, was Mr. Harris, who was our first mayor; +next follows Doctor Tolmie, chief factor of the Hudson's Bay Company; +Wm. J. Macdonald, now senator; Lumley Franklin, was a prominent +citizen, an English Jew. There were two brothers, the elder being +named Selim. They were real estate brokers and auctioneers. Lumley +was a clever amateur actor and as a member of the Victoria Amateur +Dramatic Association he took a prominent part in all the +entertainments for charity in those days. John Wilkie was a Wharf +Street merchant. Mr. W. T. Drake was the late Judge Drake; D. B. Ring +was a prominent barrister, who, when not in court, might have been +seen walking about with a couple of dogs and a hunting crop under his +arm. He was one of the old school. Allan Francis, the first American +Consul to Victoria, a man liked by everyone; James A. McCrae, an +American auctioneer, and very fond of sport; Mr. T. Johnston was +manager for Findlay, Durham & Brodie; James Lowe, of Lowe Brothers, +Wharf Street, merchants; William Charles, chief factor of Hudson's +Bay Company; Captain Delacombe, in charge of the garrison on +San Juan Island; E. Grancini, hardware merchant, with whom Charles +Lombard was chief salesman; T. L. Stahlschmidt, of Findlay, Durham & +Brodie; Captain Stamp, a millman, representing an English company who +owned a large mill at Alberni; Godfrey Brown, late of Honolulu, a +clever member of the Victoria Amateur Dramatic Association. I might +mention this association had many very clever men as members, who +would have graced any stage. Mr. Higgins, with myself, have written +of the theatrical performances by this club in early days. Next is +A. R. Green, of Janion, Green & Rhodes, of Store Street; J. D. +Pemberton, colonial surveyor; J. C. Nicholson, who married pretty +Mary Dorman; George J. Findlay, of Findlay, Durham & Brodie; Francis +Garesche, of Garesche-Green's Bank; C. W. R. Thomson, manager of the +Victoria Gas Works; George Pearkes, barrister; Lieutenants Brooks and +Hastings, of H.M.S. _Zealous_, the first ironclad to come into the +Pacific around Cape Horn, and Sheriff Elliott. + +This was a strong committee, for those days. All prominent men and +good workers. + +[Portrait: Thomas Harris.] + +Beacon Hill was the head centre of sport, and far enough from town, +as nearly all of us walked. But all kinds of conveyances were brought +into requisition to take people out, especially from Esquimalt and +the country. We had to rely on the navy then as always. The two +livery stables of J. W. Williams, on the corner now occupied by Prior +& Co., and William G. Bowman, on Yates Street, where the Poodle Dog +stands, furnished busses and buggies, and large express wagons were +also improvised, seats being put in for the occasion. With my mind's +eye I can see Thomas Harris, first mayor. + +The chief event of the day was the horse races, and the mayor was an +enthusiastic horse-fancier and steward of the Jockey Club. These +attractions were nothing without Mr. Harris, coupled with Commander +Lascelles, of the gunboat _Forward_, a son of the Earl of +Harewood, and John Howard, of Esquimalt. The time for the first race +is near, the bell rings (John Butts was bellman), and the portly +figure of Mr. Harris on horseback appears. "Now, gentlemen, clear the +course," and there is a general scattering of people outside the +rails, and the horses with their gaily dressed jockeys canter past +the grandstand, make several false starts, then off they go. It is a +mile heat round the hill, best two out of three to win. Oh! what +exciting things these races were to us old-timers, who were satisfied +with a little. The grandstand stood due south of the flagpole, and +stood there for years after the races were held elsewhere. I must not +forget to mention the Millingtons, of Esquimalt, who always rode John +Howard's horses at these meetings; they were born jockeys. I think +one of them still lives near Esquimalt. I would we had such Queen's +weather now as we had then. May was then more like what July is now +for warmth, with beautiful clear skies; they were days worth +remembering. Everyone went out for the day, and whole families might +have been seen either riding in express wagons, busses, or trudging +along on foot, carrying baskets of provisions. Soon the hill was +covered with picnickers, as well as the surrounding woods. There was +plenty of good cheer and good-natured folk to dispense that cheer, +not only to their own, but to those who had not come provided. "Why, +how do you do, Mrs. Smith? Mr. Smith, how are you? You are just +in time. Make room for Mrs. Smith, John, alongside you; Annie +and Mary can sit by Ellen. Oh, of course, you'll lunch with us! +There, we are all ready now, so fall to!" This is a sample of the +good-heartedness of the old-timers. Everyone knew everybody, and all +were as one family. + +The navy was represented by bluejackets and marines by the hundreds. +Bands of music, Aunt Sally, and the usual side shows were there. Aunt +Sally was usually run by a lot of sailors, or soldiers, with faces +painted like circus clowns, and dressed in motley garments. "Now, +ladies and gents, walk up and 'ave a shy at Aunt Sally; the dear old +girl don't mind being 'it a bit; she is so good-natured; that's a +right h'excellent shot that, 'ave another try." The same scene was +likely being enacted some distance off with "Punch and Judy," and you +may be sure that "Jack" was principal in this show as well, for where +there is fun there Jack is. I must not forget the music. Outside the +local band there was always a naval band, of a flagship usually, such +as the _Ganges_ or _Sutlej_, which were "three-deckers," +line-o'-battleships which would have put an ordinary battleship to +blush. It was supposed that the officers subscribed to the band fund, +and as there were many officers on a large ship, and well-to-do at +that, they had good music. The _Ganges_ band was something worth +hearing, about twenty-four strong. It was often heard in Victoria, +either at a naval funeral or at some public function. The navy was +the mainspring of Victoria in more ways than one. They took part in +all public functions, furnishing music, help and flags, and by their +presence in uniform brightened up and lent grace to the affair. Do we +realize how great a loss their absence to the city is? We ought to +have found out the difference by now. The races are over, the day's +celebration is near its end. Some of those who came early with +children are tired out and have gone home, others will soon follow, +as a general packing up of baskets is going on. "Jack" no longer +calls on the passerby to have a shy at Old Aunt Sally, Punch has +killed his wife and baby for the last time. Parties of bluejackets +are moving off with one playing a tin whistle, to which some are +singing. The day draws to a close, and in the words of the immortal +Gray, "Now fades the glimmering landscape on the sight," and I +close this recital of echoes of a past--Queen's Birthday forty odd +years ago. + +Through the kindness of Mr. Albert H. Maynard I am enabled to produce +an old picture of Beacon Hill during a celebration. + +[Illustration: Queen's birthday, Beacon Hill.] + +The following account of the regatta during the celebration of the +Queen's Birthday appears in the _British Colonist_ of May 25th, +1868: + +"The first of the festivities forming a part of the celebration of +the forty-ninth celebration of Queen Victoria's Birthday took place +on Saturday, and was in every respect a great success. The day, +although warmer than usual, was well suited for the picnic parties +which occupied the banks of our beautiful Arm, all the way from the +bridge to the Gorge. It is estimated that there were one thousand +persons assembled altogether. Early in the morning the town bore a +most lively appearance, flags were flying from all the principal +buildings and the shipping, and by half-past ten the streets were +full of well-dressed persons wending their way to the Hudson's Bay +Company's wharf, where the steam launch and barges of the _Zealous_ +were placed at the disposal of the Committee by the Admiral to convey +them up the Arm. The managing committee were here represented by +Messrs. Stuart and Franklin, whose arrangements were admirable. +From the wharf to the Gorge the Arm wore a most animated appearance. +From Her Majesty's gunboat _Forward_, all decked in colors, which +took up her position near the bridge, down to the meanest craft, the +water was covered with boats laden with people full of merriment and +joy. From Curtis' Point, where the barges delivered their living +freight, the scene was really enchanting. An arch of flags spanning +the water, the high banks covered with tents, the bridge and every +spot on both sides of the Arm crowded with people, and the roads +lined with equestrians, amongst whom were many ladies, gave the +happiest effect to the whole scene. We cannot recall a single +celebration which was more appreciated or enjoyable than our regatta +of Saturday. Much of this success, it must not be forgotten, must +be attributed to the gracious manner in which Admiral Hastings +co-operated with the committee to secure the comfort and convenience +of the public, and without which kindness and attention the day would +have been shorn of most of its enjoyment. Owing to the severe illness +of His Excellency the Governor he was prevented from being present. +We observed Mrs. Seymour, Mrs. Hills, the Admiral, Sir James Douglas +and family, the Chief Justice, Colonial Secretary, officers of +the fleet and several of the principal officials and families. +A more universal assemblage was never known; clergymen of every +denomination, men of all politics, people of all nations, rich and +poor, in fact, mingled together freely, forgetting the sectional and +social differences which divide them, acted as became the occasion, +that of honoring the monarch whose virtues are an example to +the world. The racing was not so successful as last year, but, +nevertheless, was good, and under the management of Mr. Hastings +and Mr. Kelly gave perfect satisfaction. + +"The amusements concluded by a duck hunt, but the men were not seen +by more than a dozen people; it may be considered the only failure of +the day. We must not omit to mention that two new racing gigs were +built for the occasion, respectively by Mr. Trahey and Mr. +Lachapelle, boat builders, who take the greatest interest in the +regattas, and spare nothing to make them successful. These boats were +both defeated in their maiden races, but the design and workmanship +of the _Zealous_ and _Amateur_, it is said, would reflect +credit on any country." + + + + +CHAPTER XX. + +EVOLUTION OF THE VICTORIA POST-OFFICE. + + +[Portrait: Henry Wootton.] + +I have before me at the present moment the envelope of an old letter. +It was received from England in 1863 by my father. The three stamps +on it show a value of 34 cents--one shilling, one fourpence and one +penny. It is only a single letter, and a small one at that. In fact, +if it were any larger it would have had more postage on it. Just +think of the difference between now and then. The first postmaster I +remember in Victoria was J. D'ewes. Something went wrong with the +finances during his incumbency and he suddenly disappeared with a +large sum for a more congenial clime (Australia, I think). D'ewes had +one clerk to assist him in the work of the post-office, by name J. M. +Morrison. He was succeeded by Mr. Henry Wootton, father of Stephen +Wootton, registrar-general, and Edward Wootton, the barrister. Mrs. +Wootton, senior, is still with us, hale and hearty, I am glad to say. +The late J. M. Sparrow was also connected with the early Victoria +post-office with Mr. Wootton. I well remember when the post-office +was on Government Street, opposite the C. P. R. telegraph office, in +a small wooden structure with a verandah in front, as was the fashion +in those days for all business places. I also remember it when it was +on Wharf Street, north of the Hudson's Bay Company's store, occupying +the lower floor, while Edward B. Marvin's sail-loft occupied the +upper. The staff then consisted of Mr. Wootton and J. M. Sparrow, as +before stated, with occasional extra assistants, say on the arrival +of an English mail, which came then via the Isthmus of Panama and San +Francisco. The "whole staff" had to work hard then, and long hours, +even into the morning. I have seen a line of letter hunters reaching +from the post-office up Wharf Street nearly to Yates, waiting for +the mail to be sorted and the wicket to open. I especially remember +one evening in 1865. The San Francisco steamer had arrived in the +afternoon at Esquimalt, and at eight o'clock there had not been a +letter delivered, although the staff had worked like beavers to get +the mails sorted. The mails from Europe arrived about twice a month, +and not regularly at that. The _Colonist_ would state that "there +was no mail again," but that it might be expected to-morrow. It was +a day of importance when it did arrive, and people naturally were +anxious to get their letters, even if it necessitated their standing +in the street in line, maybe at ten o'clock at night. Many a time a +dollar has been paid for a favorable place in line near the wicket by +someone whose time was considered too valuable to spend in waiting +for his turn. + +A good deal of banter was indulged in by those in line. The +anticipation of their hearing from friends at home made them +good-natured, and brought out the best that was in them. And, oh! +when the wicket was at last opened, distribution commenced and the +line moved on and up, there was a shout of joy and satisfaction. +Those were memorable days in Victoria's history, the good old days of +long ago. + +[Illustration: Drawing of Government St. with old Bastion.] + +I remember again when the post-office was on Government Street again, +this time where Weiler Brothers' building now stands, still in +wood, and in no more pretentious a building than the former ones. +From there it was moved again up Government Street to the old site, +opposite the C. P. R. telegraph office, until that place got too +small, and a final move was made to its present location, and a large +addition is soon to be made to keep pace with the rapid growth of +the city. Letters were an expensive luxury in the early days, as +this table of rates will show: To send a half ounce letter to Great +Britain cost 34c., British North American provinces 20c., France +50c., Germany 40c., Holland 57c., Norway 56c., Portugal 68c., Sweden +52c., and San Francisco 15c. Most of the letters from the latter +place were received by Wells Fargo's express, and cost, I think, 3c., +and special charge of 25c. on each letter. I have already described +the receipt of Wells Fargo's express from Esquimalt in the early +times, and how John Parker, now of Metchosin, used to meet the +steamer at Esquimalt. When she was expected their messenger, whose +name was Miller, and a colored man, used to watch from Church Hill, +and on her being sighted at Race Rocks the express flag was hoisted +in front of their office on Yates Street to let the citizens know the +fact. Before the steamer made a landing the letter-bags were thrown +ashore to John Parker, and fastened on his horse, then off he +galloped to Victoria, the horse being covered with sweat on arrival +at the express office, where the letters were called off by Colonel +Pendergast, or Major Gillingham, to a crowded audience. + +On the death of Mr. Wootton, I believe Mr. Robert Wallace was the +next to fill the position, which he did for some years. When he +retired he went to his former home in Scotland. On his retirement the +position was offered to the present incumbent, Mr. Noah Shakespeare, +who so ably fills it. I might say, to show the growth of the +post-office in this city since Mr. Wootton's time, when he with two +assistants carried on the work, that to-day the staff, including +letter-carriers, numbers forty-eight. + +The registered parcels and letters for last year were just twice the +year before, with a large increase in money orders, and to show the +large increase in letters in one evening at Christmas, twelve +thousand were received and cancelled in the post-office. + +In conclusion I would ask, were not letters which cost 34c. postage +in those days more appreciated than a lot of letters now at 2c. each? +It is the old story over again, that a thing easy to get is thought +little of. + +I might say this article was written in May, 1908, and at the present +writing, December, 1911, the volume of business of the Victoria +post-office has increased nearly fifty per cent.--that is, in three +years. It might be interesting to note that of the present staff Mr. +Thomas Chadwick, in charge of the money order office, is senior in +years of service, having joined the staff in 1880. Next comes Mr. +Charles Finlaison, 1882, and Mr. James Smith, 1887. The deputy +postmaster, Mr. T. A. Cairns, joined the staff in Winnipeg in 1880, +and the Victoria staff in 1882. Mr. Shakespeare, postmaster, has been +head of the department here since 1888. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +FIFTY YEARS AGO. + + +It is said, and I think truthfully, that youthful impressions are +more lasting than any others. This is my own experience, for my mind +is stored with early reminiscences. It is verified by no less a +person than my dear old friend, Bishop Cridge, who told me quite +recently that he well remembered an incident that occurred to him +when he was between three and four years old--that of a regiment of +soldiers passing through his native village, and of his following +them quite a distance from his home, and of the distress of his +family on discovering his absence. In a long life of ninety-one years +this is, I think, remarkable. Well, this is not the subject of my +present writing. It is to give my impressions of this fair city fifty +years ago, as I remember it as a child. + +To-day fifty years ago I landed with my parents and brothers on the +Hudson's Bay Company's wharf, having arrived from San Francisco on +the steamer _Northerner_, which docked at Esquimalt, as all +large ocean steamers then did. We came from Esquimalt on a small +steamer, the _Emma_, or _Emily Harris_. The latter steamer +was built, I think, by Thomas Harris, and named after his daughter, +Mrs. William Wilson, whom I am pleased to know is still a resident +with her family. The scene will ever be impressed on my mind as I saw +my future home on that 12th day of February, 1859. Outside Johnson +Street on the north, Blanchard Street on the east, and the north end +of James Bay bridge on the south, everything else was country--oak +and pine trees, with paths only, otherwise trails made by Indians and +cattle. Within this wood under the oaks were wildflowers of all kinds +in profusion. Through these woods and by these paths I went day by +day to the old Colonial School on the site of the present Central. +With the exception of private schools kept by the late Edward +Mallandaine, and another kept by the late John Jessop, our school +supplied the wants of the time. It was built of squared logs, +whitewashed, and was the residence of the master as well. It was +situated in the middle of a large tract of land which is to-day used +for school purposes. The school was built in the middle of a grove +of oaks, and there could not have been a more beautiful spot. Under +these oaks we boys and girls (alas, how few are left), sat at noon +and ate our lunch, or rested after a game of ball, or "hunt the +hounds." Those were happy days in their rustic simplicity, and so +will those say who remain to-day, fifty years later. There are +several living here in the still fair city of Victoria, but how many +have gone to that bourne whence no traveller yet returned? + +We made what would now be considered a pretty long trip from San +Francisco, eleven days. Just think of it, long enough to have gone to +Europe. We passed on and out of the east gate on to Fort Street. How +strange it all looked to me after the large city of San Francisco. As +I have before stated, nearly the whole block from the Brown Jug +corner to Broad Street was an orchard. I "borrowed" apples from this +orchard later on, and good they tasted, and like stolen sweets were +sweetest. Fort Street from Government up was a quagmire of mud, +this street not having been paved, as it was later, with boulders +from the beach and with a top layer of gravel or pebbles, also from +the beach. The sidewalk on the Five Sisters' side of the street was +made of slabs, round side up, and was very slippery in wet weather. +This I have from my brother. I can remember the other side of the +street was made of two boards laid lengthwise. + +Douglas Street had many tents on it, as well as did Johnson. Where +the Five Sisters' block stands was a log house, set back from the +street. This was the company's bakery, where I used to go for bread +at 25c. a loaf (about four pounds). There was not a brick building on +the west side of Government Street save the residence of Thomas +Harris on the corner of Bastion. His daughter, Mrs. Wilson, with a +large family, is with us to-day. This building was afterward +converted into the Bank of British Columbia. + +[Portrait: George Richardson.] + +The only brick building on the east side was the Victoria Hotel, now +the Windsor, the first brick building in Victoria, constructed by +George Richardson, still a resident. Where the B. C. Market is now +was a neat cottage built of squared logs whitewashed, with green door +and window casings. It was the residence of Dr. Johnson of the +company's service. The corner now occupied by the Bank of Commerce +and the C. P. R. offices was vacant lots, and there were many other +vacant lots on that side of Government Street, both north and south. +There was a lake on View Street above Quadra, with good duck shooting +in winter. Fort Street from the corner of Douglas Street east was +blank, with the exception of a lot of Hudson's Bay Company's barns, +set back in the block. This was, I believe, the site of a farm before +1858, for there were so many evidences of it when I played in +these barns as a child, often helping, as I thought, to unload hay +for the cattle which were kept here in the winter. + +A deep ravine ran east and west between Johnson and Pandora Streets +into Victoria harbor. This ravine was bridged at Store, Government +and Douglas Streets, behind Porter's building. There were only two +wharves in the harbor south of the bridge to the Indian reserve. Over +this bridge all traffic passed to Esquimalt and surrounding country +until Point Ellice bridge was built. + +The Songhees reserve was covered with Indian lodges, and the Indians +were numbered by hundreds. At times of feasts, when they had a +potlatch, or at the making of a "medicine-man," the reserve was a +lively place and the noise deafening with their yells, both day and +night. It was unsafe to go there at night when these celebrations +were held. Many outrages were committed on passers-by by Indians when +in a state of drunkenness. + +Over James Bay to what is now the outer dock, was a forest of pines +and oak trees, with very few residences. With all this rustic +simplicity we lived and enjoyed the passing hour. We have many things +now we did not dream of then; not knowing of them we did not miss +them, and were just as happy without them. I might conclude thus +with: + + "Victoria, the sweetest village of the west, + Scene of my youth, I love thee best." + + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +FORTY YEARS AGO. + + +April, 1908. + +Sir,--I am always interested in "Forty Years Ago." It brings back to +me food for thought, especially of late, when so many old-timers have +passed away. Before commenting on the _Colonist's_ "Forty Years +Ago" in Saturday's issue, I would remark that I expected mention to +have been made in the article on the late R. S. Byrn, that he was a +newspaper man for some years. I remember Mr. Byrn as bookkeeper for +the _Standard_, under Amor De Cosmos, forty-two years ago, +seeing him every day, as the _Standard_ office was next door to +my father's store on Government Street, opposite Trounce Avenue. The +_Standard_, like the _Colonist_, was started by Amor De +Cosmos. The first item of interest on Saturday is the sailing of the +steamer _Enterprise_ for New Westminster (she made only two +trips a week); among her passengers were Chief Justice Needham, Rev. +E. White (the pioneer minister of the Wesleyan Church in Victoria), +and R. Holloway. The latter is connected with the government +_Gazette_ to-day. + +The next item announces the first cricket match of the season at +Beacon Hill. The Victoria eleven are Charles Clark, a clever amateur +actor who helped to make a success of the various entertainments our +club gave for charity in these days; E. Dewdney, afterwards +Governor; --. Walker, a prominent barrister of those days; Joseph +Wilson, of the firm of W. & J. Wilson; Josiah Barnett, cashier of +the McDonald Bank; C. Guerra, a remittance man; C. Green, of Janion, +Green & Rhodes; Thomas Tye, of Mathews, Richard & Tye; John Howard, +of Esquimalt; Gold Commissioner Ball, and last though not least, +Judge Drake. A cricket match in those days was always able to draw a +crowd, being the ball game of the day. In this match the name does +not appear of a Mr. Richardson, who was a professional player and at +least an extra fine player, who came here about that time with a +visiting team. He is still in Victoria, as I saw him quite lately. + +Among the passengers by the steamer _California_ for San +Francisco, I note Rev. Dr. Evans, of the Methodist Church, and +family; C. C. Pendergast, in charge of Wells Fargo's bank and +express, an important institution then; J. H. Turner, (Hon.) William +Lawson, of the Bank of British North America, and brother of James H. +Lawson; R. P. Rithet & Co., Mr. and Mrs. Pidwell, whose daughter Mr. +Higgins married; John Glassey, an uncle of Mr. T. P. McConnell; J. S. +Drummond, father of Mrs. Magill; Richard Broderick, the coal dealer, +and wife, and Mrs. Zelner, whose husband kept a drug store where the +B. C. Market now is. It will be noted that a number of people +assembled on the wharf to see their friends off. I might say that +this was the usual thing in those days. Even some business places +would be closed while the proprietor went to the wharf to say +good-bye to a relative or friend. + +An Incident of the Mystic Spring. + +Sir,--In Thursday's paper in the "Forty Years Ago" column I note the +account given of the suicide of a young girl at Cadboro Bay. An +interesting account is given in the "Mystic Spring" by my friend, Mr. +Higgins. Poor girl! It was another case of unrequited affection. I +knew Miss Booth well, being of my own age. We had met on many +occasions at picnics and dances and at other festivities. On the +memorable afternoon cited I saw her walking on the Cadboro Bay Road +from town just ahead of me, and I hurried and caught up and accosted +her, asking where she was off to. She was then more than three miles +from home, which was on the Esquimalt Road. She replied in the most +cheerful manner, with a smile: "Oh, I'm going for a walk to Cadboro +Bay." I remarked on the long distance she was from home, to which she +replied, and passed on. Little did I think then that she was on her +way to her death, and in so cool and collected a manner. My memory +has been freshened lately by my brother, as to the circumstances +attending the sad affair. Miss Booth was one of three sisters who +lived with their father and mother, as before stated, on Esquimalt +Road. She had become acquainted with a young gentleman who afterward +became an M.P. at Ottawa, and this acquaintance ripened into +something stronger, so much so that she fell in love with him, and +showed it so pointedly that he, as well as others, could not well +help noticing it. He did not reciprocate her affection, and I believe +told her so, and like an honest man avoided her. This in time was too +much for her and she took the fatal course which ended in her +drowning herself near the "Mystic Spring." + +Being the last to see her in life, and knowing her so well, I +tendered my evidence at the coroner's inquest. I might say that the +family shortly afterwards moved to Ladner's Landing, and the two +sisters married there, and part of the family still reside in that +vicinity. This ends another little episode of forty years ago. This +is for those who may remember the sad occurrence and the interest +taken in the poor girl's sad fate at the time. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +THE LATE GOVERNOR JOHNSON. + + +[Portrait: John H. Johnson.] + +To the Editor,--As I sit writing, my eyes rest on the picture of the +subject of these few remarks. This picture was sent to me with an +autograph letter by Governor John Johnson, of Minnesota, four years +ago, under these circumstances. In a magazine I was reading, as I lay +in bed with typhoid fever, I came across an article written by a +life-long friend of this good and great man. Of his early boyhood to +the time when he was elected Governor of Minnesota, what an example +he was to the youth of that day as well as this. The short sketch ran +thus: John Johnson was the eldest, I think, of four children. His +father was a blacksmith and a good mechanic. Both father and mother +were Swedes. Although a good mechanic, he developed into a lazy, bad +man, who neglected his wife and children, and eventually landed in +the poorhouse. Being left to themselves, the mother took in washing, +and after school, John, the eldest, took home the clothes and took +out parcels for a tradesman. John was thus able to help to keep the +family. He was ambitious, wanted to learn, attended night school for +that purpose, engaged with a chemist, gave it up, went into a +lawyer's office, then into politics, and after filling several +important positions got elected Governor of his native state. What I +admired in John Johnson was his devotion to his mother, brother and +sisters; also his self-denial. What would you think of an alpaca +coat to resist the rigors of a Minnesota winter? Well, John, by +working at night in various ways saved up enough to buy an overcoat, +he having none, and having to be out late at night delivering the +clothes his mother had washed during the day. Through unforeseen +demands on his mother's earnings the poor boy was forced to give up +the overcoat and hand over the hard-earned money for something he +thought was wanted more, and went through the winter with nothing +warmer than an alpaca jacket. I cannot but believe that these +hardships laid the foundation for a delicate constitution, and every +time I looked at his picture hanging in my dining-room I thought, +"How delicate he looks; will he live to be an old man?" I was so +taken with the story of his early life, his trials bravely endured, +and his final triumph, that I wrote to him and congratulated him +on his election. This election was a great victory for him, as his +opponents used the fact against him that his father had been an +inmate of the poorhouse and had died there a pauper, to defeat him. +These disgraceful tactics were repudiated by many of his opponents, +who showed they did so by voting against their own candidate and for +John Johnson. This gain of votes from his opponents elected him by a +good majority. Well, I told him in my letter that I was a British +subject living in Victoria, Canada, and as such I congratulated him +on his victory, that I was glad his old mother was alive to see his +triumph, and that she should be proud, and no doubt was proud, of +such a son. + +In due course he replied, and also sent me his photo, which, as I +said before, I had framed and hung up in my dining-room as an +object-lesson for all of how a good and noble son made a good and +noble man. There is room for many more such in this world. + +To show the respect and love of the people for this good and great +man, I have added the account of his burial. The late Governor +Johnson paid a visit to Victoria about a year before his death, and I +am sorry I was not aware of the fact until it was too late, as I +should have esteemed it an honor to have shaken hands with him: + +"St. Paul, Minn., Sept. 23.--While the body of Governor John A. +Johnson, of Minnesota, was being lowered into its grave this +afternoon all industrial activity in the state was stopped for five +minutes as a tribute to the memory of the dead Governor. + +"The body, which had been lying in state in the rotunda of the +capitol since yesterday, where it was guarded by officers and +privates of the state militia, was taken to the railroad station at +9.15 this morning, escorted by ten companies of militia, preceded by +a band of one hundred pieces. + +"At the station the body was placed aboard a special train which left +for St. Peter, Minn., where interment took place this afternoon at +three o'clock. The funeral services were held in the St. Peter +Presbyterian Church, where Johnson sang in the choir when a boy. +While the services were in progress at St. Peter's, memorial services +were held in all the churches in Minneapolis and St. Paul. The public +schools are closed to-day, and the whole state is in mourning." + + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +A TRIP TO A CORAL ISLAND. + + +The Ladrone Islands, which from time immemorial have belonged to +Spain, now, as is well known, belong to the United States. There is a +cable station on the chief island, Guam. The Ladrone Islands lie off +the coast of the Philippines, and are about three thousand miles from +the Hawaiian Islands in a west-southwest direction. The Island of +Guam has about five thousand inhabitants, mostly Philipinos, natives, +Chinese and Europeans. Guam, with its sandy beach, its cocoanut trees +and coral strand, puts one much in mind of the coral islands of story +books, where an open boat with boys of various ages have landed from +some wrecked vessel, and lived on fish, berries and cocoanuts, not +forgetting wild pigs and goats. Altogether it is typical of what all +boys read and would like to read again. + +The coins used in trade are all Spanish, mostly of copper, but silver +is also used. The natives make mats, just such as our natives used to +make years ago in British Columbia, so finely woven as to hold water. +Water is carried in the Ladrone Islands in bamboos, the divisions +being cut out, and the whole bamboo filled with water and carried on +the shoulder. The usual vehicle is a two-wheeled cart, drawn by a +bull with long horns, the reins being fastened to the horns; certain +pulls on each horn turn him to left or right. They trot along like +ponies. The ruins exist of a Spanish church at Agana, over a +hundred years old, the bells belonging to it being hung in a low +tower near by. + +Since the American occupation the natives have taken to baseball as a +recreation. + +It is an interesting sight to see the native women wash clothes. They +stand in a stream up to their waists, and after soaping the clothes, +they pound them with a stone, or else take one end of the garment in +both hands and dash the other end up against a rock or board. The +natives have adopted a great many of the old Spanish customs among +themselves, including cock-fighting, which sport is carried on every +Sunday and holiday. Every man has his trained fighting-cock, and they +take great interest in the sport, staking large sums on their birds. +They lash sharp, razor-like knives on the birds' spurs, and the fight +seldom lasts more than a few minutes, and generally ends in one of +them being ripped up. + +The native huts have always the roof and sometimes the walls covered +with palm leaves, which are impervious to rain, and will last about +five years, when they have to be renewed. The floor is generally +covered with rough boards, far enough off the ground to make a +chicken-house underneath, or else room to tie up a bull or cariboo, +or to put the bull-cart under. + +One of the chief exports of the island is copra, which is the meat of +the cocoanut, picked and dried at a certain stage of its growth. In +front of nearly every native hut can be seen copra drying on mats, +and it is always taken in at night away from the dew. It is used to +make shredded cocoanut, cocoanut oil, soap and other things, and the +natives get about two and a half cents a pound for it. + + + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +A VICTORIAN'S VISIT TO SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA. + + +We left Victoria March 2nd via Seattle for San Francisco and Los +Angeles by the good steamer _Governor_. We arrived at San +Francisco Sunday, March 6th, after a rather rough trip, on which I +did not miss a meal. After breakfast Mrs. F. and I, with three +fellow-passengers, went to Sutro Heights and then to Golden Gate +Park. The seals were still sleeping on the rocks or bobbing about in +the water as of old. Sutro's gardens were a disappointment, as they +seemed to have been allowed to go to decay. Of all the beautiful +statuary representing the gods and goddesses of ancient Greece and +Rome, all were in a state of dilapidation--arms, legs and heads +broken off and covered with moss and dirt. Many of the glass houses +in the gardens were in a like state. We did not stay long there, but +took cars for Golden Gate Park, which is kept up by the Government +and everything is kept in a perfect state of repair. Beautiful +avenues of tropical trees, flowers in profusion, statues of public +men of the past, and then the museum. This had the most attractions +for me, as there were many interesting things to inspect, of which +more anon. On the down trip we took on board at San Francisco a party +of seven gentlemen who were going to Los Angeles for a holiday, +consisting of a judge, a lawyer, a doctor, a manager of an +electric light company, two merchants, and last but not least, a +blacksmith, all members of a singing society. These gentlemen gave +us several most enjoyable little concerts. We arrived at Redondo on +March 8th and took cars for Los Angeles soon after arrival, and were +in Los Angeles about two o'clock. I must confess I was not impressed +with San Francisco, for while there were some very handsome, ornate +and very high buildings, especially in the burned area and on Market +Street, there were alongside the new buildings the cellars of former +fine buildings filled with debris of the buildings destroyed by +quake or fire, also whole blocks boarded up and covered with +advertisements, behind which were piles of broken masonry and twisted +steel. I went along Montgomery to Kearney Street, up Clay to Powell +and found very little change from what I left in 1859. The Plaza did +not seem the least altered. + +In 1855 my brother one day remarked that the street above Powell had +had no name long enough, and, as we lived in it, he took the liberty +of naming it. There was a box with "Taylor's" soap or candles printed +on the cover lying on the ground, and taking a saw he cut the Taylor +in two, nailing "Tay" up on the corner house. Strange to say, it is +"Tay" Street to-day, after fifty-five years, but instead of being on +the house it is painted on a lamp-post. Clay Street had the honor of +having the first cable street cars, but I did not see any on my late +visit. + +[Portrait: Park in San Bernardino.] + +It seemed to me as if it would be a long time ere San Francisco would +be like it was before the earthquake. A party of us went out to +Golden Gate Park, but days might have been profitably spent in +the gardens and museum, and on account of lack of time we could +only partly inspect the many interesting things to be seen at +the latter place, so I reserved a further inspection till my +return home, which account will be given later on. + +If I was disappointed with San Francisco I was more than pleased with +Los Angeles, for several reasons--the most important being that it is +the starting-point for so many trips into the most beautiful places, +of which a deal might be said, more than I have time to say just now. +Los Angeles is said to contain 320,000, and likely it does, for the +traffic is more congested in the principal streets than in San +Francisco. I was told it would be so hot in Los Angeles that I took a +light suit and straw hat to wear there, but I found it just such +weather as we get in June, and I did not change my winter clothes or +wear the straw hat at all, and when going out after dinner I wore my +overcoat, being warned that I ran the risk of taking cold if I did +not. The theatres of Los Angeles are many and good. The restaurants +and cafeterias are both good and reasonable in price. It took us some +time to get used to the cafeterias' way of doing business. Imagine a +line fifty feet long--men, women and children--waiting their turn to +get their knife and fork, dessert and teaspoons, napkin and tray; +then just such food and drinks as you may fancy, from bread 1c., to +meats, 10c. to 25c. When your tray is loaded, you pass on to the +woman who checks up what you have and gives you the price on a +celluloid check, which, on going out, you hand to the cashier and +pay. It is said that you can get used to anything in time, and we +soon got used to this and found it popular with all, for these +cafeterias are always full, the food being excellent. + +We patronized a vegetarian cafe often, where every thing was made +from vegetables, no tea or coffee allowed, these drinks being +considered unwholesome. + +The abomination of Los Angeles is its automobiles and motor cycles, +which I blessed many times a day. They say there are hundreds--I +should say thousands--of them and they are always in evidence, day +and night, and what with the number of cars, it was impossible to +cross the streets at times, and it was surprising the narrow escapes +I had. My attention was drawn to the height of the sidewalks, they +often being twelve and fifteen inches above the road. It was soon +explained, for a few days later, on going to the theatre, it rained, +and three hours later, going home, the streets were running rivers of +water, and we had to walk up and down to find a narrow place to get +over to the sidewalk. The streets having high crowns, the water, of +course, runs to the gutters, and often boards have to be laid from +the sidewalk across the gutters to get over these torrents. The next +morning, the rain storm being over, the streets were clear of water. +It is the custom here to wash the streets down at night, so that they +are always clean. They are made of asphalt, and in Pasadena of a +composition of asphalt and fine stone or gravel, and are also treated +with crude oil. As part of our time was spent in Pasadena, I have +something to say of that most beautiful of all southern cities. It is +about a half hour's run from Los Angeles, and you pass scores of +pretty bungalows on the way, as well as stretches of country covered +with very low green hills with cattle feeding. Pasadena is termed the +"home of millionaires." Well, if handsome houses, grounds, trees and +flowers make a millionaire's home, it is rightly named. Fine roads +run in every direction past these lovely plains, and you are +overpowered at times with the smell of orange blossoms as you pass +through miles of orange orchards or groves. + +Among the beautiful homes is that of Judge Spinks, surrounded by +beautiful trees of all kinds, as well as an orange garden, where +after a long auto ride we received the hospitality of Mrs. Spinks and +Mrs. and Miss Clapham, and carried off a supply of oranges enough for +a week. The many friends of Judge and Mrs. Spinks will be glad to +know that his health has greatly improved since residing there. + +Passing the orange trees one day in the cars I noticed in the +distance that the ground instead of being black or green was golden +for quite a distance ahead and on drawing near found it to be caused +by oranges, which completely covered up the surface of the soil, and +was in fact the product of that grove picked and lying on the ground. + +What might be considered the finest place in Pasadena is the Busch +estate; the grounds are a wonder in artistic taste and extent, and +are to be added to, a large piece of ground having been recently +bought by Mr. Busch for that purpose. The grounds are open to the +public at all times, and his residence also at stated times. He is +the head of the Anheuser-Busch beer concern. I might state what is a +well-known fact, that they don't believe in fences down there. I have +not seen one yet. All these lovely places are open to the road. You +walk off the sidewalk to the house everywhere. Flowers grow even in +the street, alongside the walk, and are cultivated by those whose +property faces them. Speaking of trees, I must mention that they have +the greatest variety of shade trees to be seen anywhere. The tall +eucalyptus, imported from Australia, is seen by thousands, and the +beautiful pepper tree of Chili or Peru. This tree was my favorite, +looking something between a weeping willow and an acacia, but growing +much taller, with its red berries in bunches showing clearly on +the green. Then the palms with their spreading branches or stems! +Of these latter, we saw a pair that the gentleman informed me he had +brought home in a coal oil tin sixteen years ago, and to-day the +trunks were twenty inches thick and the trees spread over a surface +of twenty-five feet, leaving a passage between to walk up to the +front of the house. There are avenues of these beautiful trees in the +various parks in Los Angeles, Pasadena and Riverside. Further, in the +matter of trees I would draw a comparison between the authorities of +these southern towns and our own municipal authorities. When making +new roads or drives, they find a fine tree growing on the road; +instead of cutting it down as our vandals do, they leave it there and +protect it, and I saw a notable example of this, when three men were +treating or doctoring a veteran growing on the road which showed +signs of dying, and they were doing all that could be done to save +its life and keep it there. As we wandered about admiring all this +beauty in nature we came to an extra pretty place, and the impulse +took hold of me to have a nearer view; to if possible get permission +to pick an orange and some blossoms to send home; so I stopped in my +walk and made for where I saw two ladies sitting in the sunshine in +front of the cottage. My wife restrained me and I hesitated, but on +casting my eyes towards the ladies I perceived one of them smile, so +I proceeded on, and raising my hat, apologized for our interview, +saying that we were from the north and were captivated by the beauty +of the place. "Oh, not at all, you are perfectly welcome. Would you +like to look around?" We gladly accepted, and were shown around the +premises, and at my request to pick an orange myself to send home, I +was given permission, and told I might pick a lemon also, and +would I like a bunch of orange blossoms? + +We finally had two card boxes given us, and packed the fruit in one +and the orange blossoms in the other. We were then invited in to rest +and found the ladies were representative of those we met +afterwards--the most kindly and courteous--and here I must say that I +never met more obliging people than these same good people of +California. I never met with a rebuff from anyone, and I am sure I +bothered them enough during our stay with enquiries of every kind and +another. + +The police are instructed to supply everyone with necessary +information and are provided with books containing such information +as people may require. There are many excursions out of Los Angeles +in various directions, of which we availed ourselves. One of these +took us to Causton's ostrich farm, San Gabriel Mission, and Long +Beach. The ostrich farm is well worth a visit, to see these monster +birds running about with wings outstretched. We were informed that at +the age of six months they were full grown, and considering their +size and weight it is a wonder. They eat as much as a cow, and, to +show how high they can reach, the keeper stood on something and +raised his hand up to eight feet and the ostrich easily took an +orange from his hand and swallowed it whole. We were warned not to +come too close to them, for the ostrich is attracted by bright +hatpins in the ladies' hats or by jewelry, or by anything bright--all +are swallowed whole. One was sitting on a batch of eggs, which had +just been vacated by the male, who does the most of the sitting. The +visit to the San Gabriel Mission was of great interest to me, for it +was of ancient origin, having been one of those founded by Padre +Junipero Serra in 1771. The church we visited, and were conducted +through by a lay priest who, in a monotonous tone of voice, recited +all he knew of the mission. As before stated, the mission was about +one hundred and forty years old, and one cannot but admire the zeal +and devotion of the men who endured the hardships of the life they +must have led so long ago. The church windows were very high from the +ground, as the natives were not to be trusted, and the fathers might +be surprised at any moment during the service and shot at. They had +often to take refuge there from further attacks in early times. We +were told that the building, which was built, as all were at that +time, of sun-dried bricks and mud, was renewed since only in roof +and seats. The original doors were preserved and shown us in a room. +They were made very substantially, with iron bolts and bands and big +locks, but now crumbling with age. The pictures of saints on the +walls were painted in oil, and very poor specimens of art, I should +say. They were old, and were sent from Spain. Although twenty-five +cents was asked for admission we were asked to contribute to a fund +for the restoration of the building, and many small coins were given +by our party, and, when it is remembered that these excursions are +daily, the year around, it must be an expensive job keeping the old +building in repair. It looked as if twenty dollars would have covered +the cost of any repairs made in a year, and it looked to me a case of +graft on someone's part. There is another church, founded at the same +time, in Los Angeles, and I produce all I could decipher of an +ancient inscription I copied from the front: "Los ---- de Esta +Parroquia A La Reina de Los Angelus" (built 1814). These missions are +planted at stated distances from San Diego to San Francisco, and all +by that pioneer of Roman Catholicism, Junipera Serra. There is a +statue to him in Golden Gate Park in San Francisco in the attitude of +exhortation, leaning forward with arms extended upward. I visited +three of the missions, and they are all about the same. There is +great food for contemplation in visiting these relics of the past. +To think of the conditions as existing then and now. + +We were photographed in front of the mission, after which we left for +Long Beach and spent the balance of the afternoon. The beach was +covered with bathers--men, women and children--and although the surf +rolled high on the sands the bathers ran in and met the rollers, +which completely buried them. They then emerged laughing, and waited +for the next wave. There was quite a small town on the sands where +there were shows of all kinds and booths for getting money by many +ways in profusion. + +At the handsome and commodious Hotel Virginia we visited Mr. Roper of +"Cherry Creek" who has been down here all the winter, and we found +him getting better, but slowly. + +Although there are many Victorians go south to spend the winter each +year, the great majority are for many reasons unable to do so, and I +thought it might be of some interest to these latter to give them +"items by the way" in going and coming on this most enjoyable sojourn +to the land of fruit, flowers and beautiful homes. + +At all these winter resorts for people from the East and North are +flowers, trees and fruit, with handsome hotels, fruits, beautiful +shade trees, and last but not least, beautiful homes. There are +public parks in all of them where in January people may sit out of +doors among their flowers, with the mocking-birds singing on all +sides. Residences are nearly all in the bungalow style, with +projecting roofs. The more imposing residences may be of Spanish +architecture with red tiled roofs which look very handsome. + +I wondered at the large and handsome hotels in Pasadena, although +Riverside, San Bernardino and San Diego all have good hotels. In +Pasadena there was the Maryland with its pergola, a Spanish appendage +covered with climbing flower vines which was very attractive; also +the Green and the Raymond. There is little to be seen of the original +inhabitants of this country, that is to say, of their descendants. It +put me in mind of our own Indians, of the remnant of the Songhees +tribe. They are all seemingly half or quarter breeds, and work as +laborers for the railway company. I have already given in my boyhood +experiences in San Francisco an account of a flag incident, and +strange to say, I nearly had another in Los Angeles. One day I saw +what might be an English flag flying from a high building, and the +sight stirred me. So to make sure I threaded my way through the crowd +for some distance and when opposite the building I walked off the +sidewalk and craned my neck to look up six stories to make sure if it +were really a Union Jack. Well, well! I thought, is it up so high to +protect it from molestation, or is it that they are more +liberal-minded here? I felt pleased, but when I espied what turned +out to be the British coat-of-arms below the flag I saw the reason +why. Just then along came a motor cycle and a motor car, and in the +opposite direction a street car, and I recovered myself and got out +of the way in quick time. It was the office of the British Consul, +and that is why it waved. I consoled myself with the thought that it +was after all only a certain class of American who would not tolerate +any other flag in this country but his own, and I shall try and +always think this. + +We left Los Angeles and Redlands March 24th for San Francisco, where +we arrived March 25th. In San Francisco I met an old Victorian, Tom +Burnes, brother of William Burnes, H. M. customs. I had not seen him +for years, and we started to explore the Plaza on Kearney and +Washington Streets. This was the most familiar part of San Francisco +to me, as I have passed through this part often as a boy. It is now +known as Portman Square. I looked for the "Monumental" engine house +from which I had run to fires in the early fifties. A blank space was +pointed out where it had been, but the fire had destroyed this +ancient landmark. In the Plaza Mr. Burnes showed me a monument to +Robert Louis Stevenson, the English writer of such interesting sea +stories. On the top was a ship of the time of Elizabeth, with the +high poop deck, which must have represented something in one of his +stories, and an inscription: + +"To Remember Robert L. Stevenson. + +"To be honest, to be kind, to earn a little, to spend a little less. +To make upon the whole a family happier for his presence. To renounce +when that be necessary. Not to be embittered. To keep a few friends, +but those without capitulation. Above all, on the same grim +condition, to keep friends with himself. Here is a task for all that +man has of fortitude and delicacy." + +This was erected by some admirers of the very interesting English +writer who died, was it not in Samoa, so beloved by the natives. + +Piloted by Mr. Burnes, we next viewed St. Mary's Cathedral. It had +been fifty odd years since I had last been inside, and as a boy I had +often been attracted by the music. The cathedral was completely +gutted by the fire, which entered at the front doors and passed up +the tower and to the roof, in fact making a complete ruin of the +building. So that the original landmark should be preserved intact, +they built a complete church inside of concrete and bolted the two +walls together so that the building is as good as ever. New stained +glass windows, altars and a new $25,000 organ have been donated by +wealthy members of the congregation, so that we looked upon a new +church inside and the original outside. + +We spent the afternoon at Golden Gate Park, which was the great sight +of San Francisco, four miles long, laid out as an immense garden or +succession of gardens, with conservatories and aviaries, tropical +trees, winding roads and paths in all directions. The first thing to +attract my attention before entering the museum was a statue of Padre +Junipero Serra, the intrepid founder of so many missions along the +coast of California. There were also monuments to Abraham Lincoln, +General Grant, and that stirring preacher of the south, Starr King. +Time was valuable, so I had to give up a further inspection of the +park to give all remaining time to the museum, which closed at four +o'clock. All the time we were in the museum I noticed two policemen +patrolling about and I thought it unusual, and on inquiry found that +lately a most valuable picture had been taken by being cut out of the +frame. After some trouble the thief had been captured and the picture +recovered. The thief gave as a reason for stealing it that he thought +it might inspire him to paint just such a picture, he being ambitious +to be a painter. I hardly think this excuse will weigh with the +authorities. In the room of pioneer relics I found many interesting +things. First a large bell which recorded on the outside the founding +of the volunteer fire department, organized 1850, George Hosseproso, +chief engineer. Firemen of those days were men of account, in fact, +many men of prominence were officers or members of the fire +department. Second, four mission bells from an old mission church at +Carmelo, Monterey County, built by Padre Junipero Serra, 1770; San +Francisco's first printing press, used in publishing the first +newspaper in California, in 1846, at Monterey; a picture of Jno. +Truebody, a pioneer business man of San Francisco, whom I remember +well; two glass cases of relics presented by John Bardwell, of the +_vigilante_ days, containing firearms, batons, certificates of +membership in the _vigilante_ committee, pieces of rope, being +cut off the original ropes with which they hanged Cora, Casey, +Hetherington and Brace, for the assassination of James King of +William, and General Richardson. James King of William was the editor +of the _Chronicle_, and in an election campaign James King, who +was opposed to Casey in politics, mentioned the fact that Casey had +been a jail-bird in his youth. This was taken up by Casey's friends +and three of them agreed that the first one of the three who should +meet James King should shoot him. Casey being the first to meet +him performed the deed. For this he was hanged by the vigilance +committee, who demanded him from the authorities. This committee was +formed immediately after the assassination. + +Cora was hanged for the murder of General Richardson because of a +slight cast on Cora's wife by the former. Pistols seemed to have +been carried by all as a necessity. Cora and Casey were taken out of +the jail by the vigilance committee and hanged May 18th, 1856. There +were also pieces of the rope used in hanging Hetherington and Brace +for the murder of Baldwin, Randall, West and Marion, July 29th, 1856. +There were pictures also of Judge Terry, A. B. Paul, Wm. T. Coleman, +Charles Doane, James King of William, and a picture of the scene +of his assassination. I recognized this locality immediately I saw +it. It was the offices of the Pacific Express Co., on the corner +of Washington and Montgomery. There were also pictures of Fort +Gunnybags, the headquarters of the vigilance committee, showing the +alarm bell and the sentries on the roof; also Lola Montez, Countess +of Bavaria, a most notable woman of those exciting times, and of +William C. Ralston. There was a picture of the pavilion of the first +Mechanics' Exhibition, held in San Francisco in 1857. I remember this +exhibition well, as on a certain day all the school children were +given free admission, and it was as a school boy I went. + +There was an extensive collection of relics of the past in the +Egyptian rooms, many being _facsimiles_ of the originals in the +British Museum. Where this was the case it was so stated, but there +were many genuine things, amongst which I noted a wooden statue +dating back about 1,000 years before Christ, being the wife, and also +sister of Osiris, and mother of Horus, chief deity of Egypt. Strictly +on the stroke of four o'clock a policeman went through the building +and called out that the buildings must be closed. I made a request to +one of these policemen to see the curator, and he took me to his +office; he was, unfortunately, not in, but I saw his assistant and +offered her some relics of early San Francisco, which were +accepted. I was watching the people filing out, prior to closing, +when out came three bluejackets, whose caps showed they belonged to +H. M. S. _Shearwater_. I introduced myself, and remarked, "What are +you boys doing here? I should hardly have expected to have seen +sailors so far from their ship." "Oh, sir, we are at anchor in the +harbor yonder, and will be leaving Monday for Esquimalt." I saw her +that evening at anchor, with the Union Jack flapping in the breeze, +and suppose the Jacks were aboard all right. + +We were advised that the mint was open to visitors between the hours +of 9.30 and 11.30, and as I had not been there for about twenty years +we joined a party one morning. On presenting ourselves we were +ushered into a waiting-room with others. Later on a man in uniform +came for us. We were counted and told to follow. We were first taken +down to a room in the cellar where we were instructed as to what we +should see, and given a lot of information about the mint. This was +done where it was quiet, as where the work was done it is very noisy. +The first process was melting the silver in crucibles, which were +emptied of their contents when in a liquid state into molds, which +were in turn emptied out, were grasped by a man who passed them on +with thick leather-gloved hands to powerful rollers which rolled the +ingots out to long strips like hoop-iron, after being passed through +many times. These strips, which were then as thick as a dollar, were +passed under a stamp, which punched out the coins about 120 a minute. +They were continually being examined by various men who now and then +threw out imperfect ones. They were then passed on to another room +where there was a perfect din of machinery. They were now passed +under an immense stamp and the image was punched on under a +pressure of one hundred and twenty-eight tons. They were then coins, +and after several other examinations were cooled and passed, one +being handed around for our inspection. In addition to the dollar we +saw the same routine gone through in making a copper cent piece. +I tried to get one, but he said every one was counted and must be +produced. There were several who wanted souvenirs and wished to pay +for them. We were counted again, signed our names and left. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +AN HISTORIC STEAMER. + + +The following interesting account of the historic steamer +_Beaver_, the first to round the Horn into the Pacific, will be +read by native sons as well as pioneers with renewed interest, as it +is many years since this account was published. + +The _Beaver_ lay off the old Customs House for a long time, +until taken by the Admiralty for hydrographic work. When done with +for that purpose she was sold for mercantile purposes again. + +For some years she was in charge of my old friend, Captain "Wully +Mutchell," as he was called by his friends, and he had many, for he +was as jolly as a sandboy and always joking, in fact more like a man +of fifty instead of eighty, as he really was. + +[Illustration: The steamer Beaver.] + +"More than thirty-nine years have passed and a generation of men have +come and gone since the Hudson's Bay Company's steamer _Beaver_, +whose sale was chronicled yesterday, floated with the tide down the +River Thames, through the British Channel, and went out into the +open, trackless sea, rounded Cape Horn, clove the placid waters of +the Pacific Ocean, and anchored at length, after a passage that +lasted one hundred and sixty-three days, at Astoria on the Columbia +River, then the chief 'town' on the Pacific Coast. Built and equipped +at a period when the problem of steam marine navigation was yet to be +solved, is it any wonder that the little steamer which was +destined to traverse two oceans--one of them scarcely known outside +of books of travel--was an object of deep and engrossing interest +from the day that her keel was first laid until the morning when she +passed out of sight amidst the encouraging cheers of thousands +gathered on either shore, and the answering salvoes of her own guns, +on a long voyage to an unknown sea? + +"Titled men and women watched the progress of construction. King +William and 160,000 of his loyal subjects witnessed the launch. A +Duchess broke the traditional bottle of champagne over the bow and +bestowed the name she has ever since proudly worn. The engines and +boilers, built by Bolton and Watt (Watt was a son of the great Watt) +were placed in their proper positions on board, but it was not +considered safe to work them on the passage; so she was rigged as a +brig and came out under sail. A bark accompanied her as convoy to +assist in case of accident; but the _Beaver_ set all canvas, ran +out of sight of her 'protector,' and reached the Columbia twenty-two +days ahead. Captain Home was the name of the first commander of the +_Beaver_; he brought her out, and we can well imagine the feeling +of pride with which he bestrode the deck of his brave little ship, +which carried six guns--nine-pounders. The _Beaver_, soon after +reaching Astoria, got up steam, and after having 'astonished the +natives' with her performances, sailed up to Nisqually, then the +Hudson's Bay Company's chief station on the Pacific. Here Captain +McNeil (now commander of the _Enterprise_), took command of the +_Beaver_, and Captain Home, retiring to one of the Company's forts +on Columbia River, perished in 1837 in Death's Rapids by the +upsetting of a boat. From that period until the steamer passed into +the hands of the Imperial hydrographers, the history of the +_Beaver_ was that of most of the Company's trading vessels. She +ran north and south, east and west, collecting furs and carrying +goods to and from the stations for many years. Amongst the best known +of her officers during that period were Capt. Dodds, Capt. Brotchie, +Capts. Scarborough, Sangster, Mouat and others, all of whom passed +away long since, but have left their names behind them. We believe +we are correct in saying that not a single person who came out in +the _Beaver_ in 1835 is now alive; and nearly all the Company's +officers, with a few exceptions, who received her on her arrival at +Columbia River, are gone, too. + +[Portrait: Captain "Willie" Mitchell.] + +"Yesterday, through the courtesy of Capt. Rudlin (one of her new +owners and future commander) we visited the old ship. On board we met +the venerable Captain William Mitchell, who has had charge of the +vessel for some years. He was busily engaged in packing his clothes +into chests preparatory to going ashore. He remembers well the +_Beaver_ in her early days. Every room, every plank possesses +historic interest to him. He pointed out the Captain's room. 'Just +the same,' said he, 'as when I first saw it in '36. There's the chest +of drawers, there's the bunk, and there's the hook where the +Captain's pipe hung, and many's the smoke I've had in these cabins +nearly forty years ago. Nothing below has been changed,' continued +Captain Mitchell, 'except--except the faces that used to people these +rooms in the days long ago, and'--pointing to his thin, gray +locks--'I was a deal younger then!' He led the way into the +engine-room, chatting pleasantly as he went and relating incidents +connected with the _Beaver_ and her dead people of an interesting +character which we may some day give to the world. There are two +engines, of seventy-five horse-power, as bright and apparently as +little worn as when they first came from the shop of Bolton and Watt. +From some cuddy hole the Captain drew forth the ship's bell, on which +was inscribed '_Beaver_, 1835;' then he showed us into the little +forecastle with the hammock-hooks still attached to the timbers, from +which had swung two generations of sailors. Then the main deck was +regained and we took leave of the gallant old gentleman and Captain +Rudlin, who informed us that the _Beaver_ will be taken alongside +of Dickson, Campbell & Co.'s wharf to-day to undergo the important +changes necessary to the new trade in which she will henceforth be +employed." + + + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +COLONEL WOLFENDEN--IN MEMORIAM. + + +When I look back over my soldiering days the figure that I first +remember is Colonel Wolfenden, then a sergeant in the volunteers, and +I a full private. It was not, I think, until I was twenty years old +and a member for two years, that I remember him, when he was elected +captain from sergeant. I might say that the volunteers were a +different organization from the militia. You enlisted for a term, the +same as in the latter organization, and officers were elected from +the company. Uniforms were paid for by each member, the cost being +$26 for everything complete. Dues had to be paid also, fifty cents a +month, and ammunition for target practice had also to be paid for. It +was a good deal like the volunteer firemen of that day, who had to +pay dues and buy their uniform. + +[Portrait: Colonel Wolfenden.] + +If ever there was an enthusiastic volunteer it was Captain Wolfenden, +and under the most trying circumstances. In those days (forty-four +years ago) soldiering was not as popular as it was when it was merged +into the Canadian militia, when uniform was free, ammunition was free +and there were no fees to pay. It was therefore hard work to get a +company together and keep them together under the circumstances. +Captain Wolfenden having the matter at heart did his best, and more +than his best, if that were possible, to make a good showing, and he +encouraged me to get members and raised me to corporal, and +later to sergeant and finally on our merging into the Canadian +militia he made me senior sergeant. I must honestly confess I did not +think I deserved this at the time, for I was a nervous subject and +got rattled at times, but for his sake, who showed a partiality for +me, I did my best and was always at drill as he was, no matter what +the weather was. It was as captain of volunteers that he joined the +Canadian militia, and soon after was appointed colonel in charge, +which high position he worked for and earned by faithful service. I +think what made us such good friends was our early comradeship in the +volunteers. We used to have march-outs to Esquimalt, to Cadboro Bay +or to Beacon Hill and back, and to enliven the march would sing +songs; those with a good chorus which were joined in by the rest. +These days of the past were often talked over by us in later years, +while I, to please the Collector of Customs, Mr. Hamly, in 1884, +resigned membership in the militia, after eighteen years as a +volunteer soldier. Colonel Wolfenden continued on for many years. +In conclusion I might add that when I joined the volunteers Captain +Laing, then manager of the Bank of British Columbia, was captain. I +cannot remember whether Colonel Wolfenden was a member then or not, +but it was not long after. Other officers of that time were Adjutant +Vinter, Captain Fletcher (P. O. Inspector), Captain Dorman (deputy +Inspector), Major Roscoe (hardware merchant), Captain T. L. Wood +(Solicitor-General), Captain Drummond (company No. 2), and Chaplain +Rev. Thomas Sommerville. Occasionally we went into camp for a month, +and generally at Beacon Hill, or at Henley's, at Clover Point. These +camps were made very interesting by entertainments being frequently +given, and to which our friends were invited. Oh, those were days +worth remembering! During the time of the Fenian Raid we were +encamped in the trees just about where the bear pits were, and the +night sentries were told to keep a strict lookout, and challenge all +intruders. This was taken advantage of by some young fellows to play +a lark on us. So one night when the camp was asleep, we were all +awakened by the sentry's outcry. He happened to be the late Robert +Homfray, a rather nervous man. I got up with the rest, and there +was the sentry with what he declared was an infernal machine, which +had been thrown into the camp by someone who had made off in the +darkness. The infernal machine consisted of a bottle filled with what +was supposed to be giant powder, and bits of iron or steel, with a +fuse sticking out of the neck of the bottle. It was, after careful +inspection without much handling, put away till the morning, and +then, a more strict examination revealed the contents to be simply +small bits of coal to represent giant powder, and genuine steel +filings. This was a standing joke against us, and especially Private +Homfray, for many a day afterwards. To conclude, finally, I am sure I +have the most kindly recollections of my friend of so many years, as +have many more to-day, who will bear full testimony to his sterling +worth as a soldier, government official and gentleman. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + +THE CLOSING OF VIEW STREET IN 1858. + + +It is known to few only that View Street at one time reached from +Cook to Wharf Street. + +[Portrait: Senator Macdonald.] + +In the Victoria _Gazette_ of 1858 appear several items regarding +this street. A public meeting was called for by certain citizens who +considered themselves more aggrieved than the general public, in that +they, being residents of the upper part of View Street, had on coming +to business, to walk on to Fort or Yates Street to get to Government +or Wharf. Without any notice the street was fenced across on Broad +and also on Government. The _Gazette_ states that there was +great dissatisfaction at the fencing of the vacant space on +"Broadway" and Government Streets, which the paper stated was used as +a cabbage patch, and there was talk of pulling the fence down. + +All the agitation seems to have amounted to nothing, for not only was +the fence not pulled down, but J. J. Southgate, one of the earliest +merchants of Victoria, erected a large wooden building on the street. +By referring to the engraving this building may be seen indicated by +a cross. Later on Southgate erected the present brick building which +Hibben & Co. have just vacated after an occupancy of forty odd years. +The _Gazette_ stated later on that the Governor had sold the +lots to Mr. Southgate, and that settled the matter. + +That it was not intended that View Street should end at Broad +is evident, as Bastion Street was then known as View Street, being so +called in Mallandaine's first directory (1859.) + +Mr. Trounce, who owned the land through which Trounce Avenue passes, +after the closing of View Street, decided to make an alleyway through +his property so as to more easily let his stores. This alley has been +open ever since, but used to be closed for a day each year for many +years after. + +I might state that J. J. Southgate, who was a prominent Mason, called +a meeting of "all Free Masons at his new store on Monday evening, +July 12th, 1858, at 7 o'clock, to consider important matters +connected with the organization of the order." + +T. N. Hibben & Co., who have just vacated this site after so many +years, have moved only once before since going into business on the +corner of Yates and Langley Streets, in 1858, by the firm name of +"Hibben & Carswell." The building is that brick one lately sold. Both +founders of this well-known and long-established business, together +with their bookkeeper who later became a partner (Mr. Kammerer) have +passed away, and the firm now consists of Mr. Hibben's widow and +William H. Bone, who has been connected with the firm since 1871. + +"Did the Thoroughfare Once Run Through to The Harbor? A Question +of Records. + +"The question of whether or not View Street, which is now blocked by +stores and office buildings at Broad Street, was ever open to traffic +as a thoroughfare clear through, which theory D. W. Higgins, in an +interview published in the _Colonist_ last week denied, is causing +considerable discussion among old-time residents. Yesterday Edgar +Fawcett, who first broached the subject, gave the _Colonist_ the +following further argument on the question: + +"As my friend Mr. Higgins joins issue with me on my account of the +closing of View Street in 1858, I am going to give him some further +evidence. I would not for a moment match my memory or knowledge of +events of the early history of Victoria with Mr. Higgins, who arrived +months before I did, and from his position as a newspaper man had far +better opportunities of getting knowledge of passing events. But Mr. +Higgins did not arrive early enough, if the evidence in the Victoria +_Gazette_ is worth anything. I had the opportunity of reviewing +the first year's numbers, and jotted down all items I thought of +interest. This I gave to the _Colonist_ readers some years ago, +and the items regarding View Street were some of them. I think Mr. +Higgins will forgive me if I say that the _Gazette's_ evidence +is likely to be more correct than mere memory. I am glad of the +opportunity to correct an error I made in copying from my former +article; that of substituting the name of Southgate for Stamp. +Southgate's name occurred several times in items, and I find by +referring to my former article, that I have Captain Stamp's name all +right. Now for the further evidence. I would ask if it is likely that +any one would build a wharf on Broad Street, say at the office of the +Daily _Times_, Ltd., which is now at the foot of View Street? I +ask this because in the _Gazette_ it is announced that Rousette +is building a wharf at the foot of View Street, which meant next to +the Hudson's Bay Company's warehouse on Wharf Street. Further, I +produce from Mallandaine's First Directory, compiled in 1859, +two advertisements which will show that View Street ended on Wharf +Street opposite the Hudson's Bay Company's store: + + F. J. St. Ours + Wharf Street, near View + Kaindler's wharf--Victoria, V. I. + Commission Merchant + Storage + Etc., Etc., Etc. + + * * * * + + Reid & Macdonald + Commission and General Merchants + Warehousemen + Wharf Street, + Corner of View Street + Victoria, V. I. + +"Neither Bastion Nor View. + +"To the Editor:--Having read with great interest Mr. Edgar Fawcett's +letter _re_ the query as to the permanent term for the street +now named as View and Bastion, may I make a suggestion that in the +event of a re-naming that the thoroughfare be known as Fawcett +Street? Many old residents are perpetuated in street names, and I +feel sure, after the indefatigable efforts put forward by Mr. Fawcett +in all issues connected with archaic research in Victoria and its +immediate environs, that it would be a fitting tribute on the part of +the city fathers to perpetuate the name of such a zealous citizen. + + "Well Wisher. + + "Victoria, B.C., Nov. 8th, 1910." + + +"View or Bastion or Both? + +"To the Editor:--In case the project for extending View Street +through the burnt block is carried out, what name would be given the +street when it connects with Bastion at the corner of Government? +Although View Street as originally planned commenced at the +waterfront where the Hudson's Bay Company's store stands, I think +'Bastion' a better name for the street, as it was the northern +boundary for the fort, and, as is well known, Richardson's cigar +store stands on ground formerly occupied by the N. E. bastion, and is +therefore a historic spot or landmark. + +"Since the correspondence with respect to View Street and where it +commenced and ended, I have met two gentlemen who were residents in +1855 and who both state positively that View Street was always open +for traffic from Wharf Street eastward until 1858, when the land now +proposed to be expropriated was fenced in on Government and Broadway, +as Broad Street was then known, by Captain Stamp, with the consent of +Governor Douglas, on behalf of the Hudson's Bay Company." + +"The Bridge to the Reserve. + +"Sir:--There cannot be two opinions as to the utility of a bridge +over the harbor from the bottom of Johnson Street. The first bridge +crossing to the Songhees reserve at this point was built by Governor +Douglas prior to 1860, it being an ordinary pile bridge such as +graced, or disgraced, James Bay until the Causeway was built. The +first bridge over to the reserve was part of the highway to +Esquimalt, Craigflower, Metchosin and Sooke, and was very much in use +in the olden days. + +"A continuous stream of people, many Indians amongst them, passed to +and fro, and in times of potlatches, when there were hundreds of +Indians living there, and as many visitors from other reservations on +the island, and even mainland, it was a busy place. The ceremony of +making a medicine man I have seen on two occasions, when a candidate +was locked up for days, being kept without food, and then at the +appointed time let loose, when he ran about like a madman and was +supposed to catch a dog, of which there were scores on the reserve, +and in his hunger bite pieces out of the dog. It was very unsafe at +times for persons to go over to the reserve at night, on account of +the drunken Indians. + +"But this is beside the question I started to write about, which was +the bridge and its approach on Johnson Street end. I repeat what I +said in reviewing four old pictures of 1866 which appeared in the +_Colonist_ of a few weeks ago. In speaking of the old buildings +to be seen on the water-front next to the sand and gravel concern, +'there are two which, I remarked, should not have been allowed to +remain so long.' One was known in the earliest times as the 'salmon +house,' where the Hudson's Bay Company salted, packed and stored +their salmon. It may have been considered an ornament in those days, +but in these days of progress it is an eyesore and very much in the +way. Opposite this building, and across the street, was manufactured +most of the 'tangle leg' whiskey sold to the Indians in those days, +and which drove them crazy, rather than made them drunk. + +"Edgar Fawcett." + + + + +CHAPTER XXIX. + +MR. FAWCETT RETIRES FROM THE CUSTOMS. + + +"Pioneer Pensioned by the Department--One of the Oldest Residents +of the City. + +"After twenty-nine years' service in His Majesty's customs as +assistant appraiser in charge of the Postal Package and Express +Office, Mr. Edgar Fawcett has just received word that he has been +retired with a substantial pension. While glad to retire, Mr. Fawcett +said he feels that he will miss the favor he has met with at the +Customs House week by week for so many years. + +"Mr. Fawcett was presented with an address by the customs staff +yesterday and a presentation was made of a leather chair and stool. +The presentation address was signed by every member of the customs +staff. + +"Mr. Edgar Fawcett is a pioneer. He came to Victoria in 1859 and is +one of the best informed men in the city concerning the history and +material development of this portion of the province, and he himself +has taken no insignificant part in affairs of a general public +nature. He has written many reminiscences of early days in Victoria +and is a recognized authority along these lines. + +[Portrait: Fawcett as Rifle Volunteer.] + +"Mr. Fawcett is a native of Australia, having been born of English +ancestry at Sydney, N.S.W., on February 1st, 1847. His father, who +was a carpet manufacturer at the noted British manufactory of +carpets, Kiddermaster, was a cousin of Sir Rowland Hill, the +British Postmaster-General, whose work for the penny post is known. +The family emigrated to Australia in 1838, and remained there until +1849, when they were among the 'forty-niners' to become pioneers of +California. Mr. Fawcett, Sr., invested at San Francisco in a vessel +which he engaged in freighting lumber between British Columbia and +San Francisco, and this craft was lost in the Straits of Juan de Fuca +in 1857, causing him some financial embarrassment. In 1858 the father +came to Victoria to recoup his fortunes, the family following a year +later. Mr. Fawcett, Sr., was an honored citizen of Victoria for +thirty years, and for three years filled the post of Government agent +at Nanaimo. In 1889 he returned to England and died at the age of +seventy-six years. Of his sons, Edgar Fawcett and Rowland W. Fawcett +remained in British Columbia. + +"Mr. Fawcett came to Victoria as a boy of twelve years of age, and in +the early period of the city's history, when there was little more +than a village on the site of the old fort, he used his facilities of +observation to good advantage, and carries in his memory exact +impressions and scenes as he then saw them. He received his early +education in Victoria at the Collegiate School and the Colonial +School, and began his business career with his brother as an +upholsterer until 1882, when he entered the Dominion Civil Service, +first as a clerk in the custom house, and he has been promoted from +time to time. + +"Mr. Fawcett served as a sergeant in the old Victoria Rifle +Volunteers, afterward merged into the Canadian militia under Colonel +Wolfenden. He was among the first to join the volunteer fire +department of Victoria. He is the only remaining charter member of +the Pioneers' Society, and was secretary at the first meeting +when organized in Smith's Hall, Victoria, in 1871. He is a veteran +member of the Oddfellows, having joined the order in 1868. He is a +veteran member of the church committee of the Reformed Episcopal +Church, and was active in the organization of this church about +thirty-five years ago." + + + +CHAPTER XXX. + +SOME COLORED PIONEERS. + + +Here is an interesting little story to early residents of over fifty +years ago that may be recalled for their edification. It would be +interesting to present residents to know that in 1858 Victoria had a +larger colored population than she has to-day, although with now +three times the population. This is how it happened, and thereon +hangs the tale: + +Before the rush to the Fraser River gold diggings and in California +there was an act passed through the Legislature of that state making +it compulsory for all colored men to wear a distinctive badge. This +called forth indignation from all the colored residents of +California, and resulted in a meeting being held in San Francisco, +delegates from all parts coming. At this meeting, after the matter +had been fully discussed, it was decided to send a delegation of +three, representing the colored residents of California, to Victoria +to interview Governor Douglas, to know how they would be received in +this colony. The delegation, consisting of Mifflin W. Gibbs,--Moses, +a barber, and another, met Governor Douglas and received such +encouragement that they returned and reported favorably. The result +of this was that eight hundred colored persons--men, women and +children--emigrated to Victoria during 1858 and 1859. + +What induced me to write this matter up was the resurrecting of a +newspaper cutting, evidently from the Victoria _Gazette_, for +which I am indebted to Mr. Newbury, collector of customs, and which +is given verbatim: + +[Portrait: Samual Booth.] + +"Application for Citizenship. + +"We have copied the names and occupations of the persons who have +made application to be admitted to the rights of British subjects +within the past few days, and give them below. They foot up +fifty-four in number--fifty-three are colored and one white. + +"_Victoria Town._ + + "George Henry Anderson, farmer. + William Isaacs, farmer. + Fielding Spotts, cooper. + James Samson, teamster. + Richard Stokes, carrier. + John Thomas Dunlop, carman. + Nathan Pointer, merchant. + Augustus Christopher, porter. + Isaac Gohiggin, teamster. + William Alex. Scott, barber. + Mifflin Wister Gibbs, merchant. + William Miller, saloon-keeper. + George H. Matthews, merchant. + Robert Abernethy, baker. + Henry Perpero, gardener. + Thomas Palmer Freeman, storekeeper. + Stephen Anderson, miner. + Edward A. Booth, water carrier. + William Grant, teamster. + Henry Holly Brenen, cook. + Samuel John Booth, caulker. + Joshua B. Handy, restaurant-keeper. + William Brown, merchant. + Timothy Roberts, teamster. + *William Copperman, Indian trader. + Matthew Fred. Monet, fruiterer. + John Baldwin, greengrocer. + Stephen Whitley, laundryman. + Charles H. Thorp, ship carpenter. + George Washington Hobbs, teamster. + Willis Carroll Bond, contractor. + Elison Dowdy, painter. + Archer Fox, barber. + Robert H. Williamson, blacksmith. + Randel Caesar, barber. + Fortune Richard, ship carpenter. + T. Devine Mathews, carrier. + Robert Tilghman, barber. + Charles Humphrey Scott, grocer. + Thomas H. Jackson, drayman. + Ashbury Buhler, tailor. + Archer Lee, porter. + John Lewis, porter. + Thorenton Washington, carpenter. + Lewis Scott, carpenter. + William Glasco, teamster. + John Dandridge, no occupation. + Adolphus C. Richards, plasterer. + Fielding Smithers, messenger. + John E. Edwards, hair dresser. + Paris Carter, grocer. + Augustus Travers, porter. + +[*] Footnote: White. + + +_"Victoria District._ + + "Richard Jackson, gardener. + Patrick Jerome Addison, farmer." + +The names will be familiar to many of our old-timers, but, strange to +say, of this list only seven families are represented to-day: That of +F. Spotts, farmer; Nathan Pointer, M. W. Gibbs, William Grant, Samuel +J. Booth, Paris Carter and Gus Travers. + +As they were promised equal rights with the whites by Governor +Douglas, they proceeded to claim these rights in various ways, which +was resisted by the American residents, who formed a large majority +of the residents of Victoria then. It has been told by Mr. Higgins of +the colored people who had reserved seats in the dress circle of the +theatre, and of the indignation of the Americans who had seats next +to them; several colored men went into Joe Lovett's saloon and called +for drink. Joe Lovett refused to serve them. The colored men brought +the matter before Judge Pemberton, who decided that Lovett was in the +wrong, and must serve them; but that he might charge them $2.50 a +drink if he wished. An American and his family occupied a pew in +Victoria District Church, and one hot Sunday the sexton showed a +colored man into the pew. The American left the church and wrote a +very indignant letter to the _Gazette_ on the insult offered to +the American people by such a proceeding. This called for a reply +from the Rev. Mr. Cridge in defence of his sexton. Also Mr. Gibbs +wrote a very caustic letter, in which he handled the gentleman +without gloves. This Mr. Gibbs, after leaving Victoria, rose to a +high position in the United States, having been appointed minister to +Hayti. He kept a grocery here on lower Yates Street in connection +with Peter Lester. Many of these colored people returned to the +United States after the Civil War was ended. The fire department +was modelled after the San Francisco department, and was composed +principally of Americans. On the formation of the hook and ladder +company several colored men sent in their names for membership. All +were black-balled. As they saw by this that there was a dead-set +made against them, they then decided to form a volunteer military +company. In this they were encouraged by the Hudson's Bay Company, +who lent them muskets. This move on the part of the Hudson's Bay +Company was supposed to have been made on the promise of the support +of the colored military in case they were required to maintain +order. + +On the installation of Governor Kennedy, later on, this volunteer +company stated they were going as a guard of honor. This, I believe, +was discouraged by the press, but they put in an appearance with a +band of music. In reply to an address, Governor Kennedy advised them +to disband, as they were illegally organized, there being no +authority for their organization. This was a great disappointment to +them, as they had been to the expense of uniforms and band and drill +hall; in addition to which they had been drilling for months, and now +all for nothing. But there was nothing for it under these +circumstances but to comply, and so the colored military were +disbanded. They were succeeded by a company of white volunteers, who +wore white blanket uniforms trimmed with blue. They used to drill on +Church Hill in the evenings, and were a great attraction. This was +the beginning of the volunteer rifle movement, which was eventually +merged into the Canadian militia. I was one of the riflemen so +merged. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXI. + +JOHN CHAPMAN DAVIE, M.D. + + +Sincere will be the regret at the announcement of the death of the +subject of this sketch. As I have known him since he arrived in the +colony with his father (who was also John Chapman Davie), and his +three brothers, William, Horace and Alexander, in 1862, it may not be +inappropriate that I, one of his oldest friends, should tell what I +know of him. Dr. Davie was born in Wells, Somersetshire, on the 22nd +March, 1845, and was therefore sixty-six years of age. He, with his +brother Horace (residing in Somenos), were educated at Silcoats +College, England, and studied for the profession which afterwards +made him known from north to south of the Pacific Coast, at the +University of San Francisco. He also studied under a clever English +physician, Dr. Lane, and under Dr. Toland, both eminent men who +founded colleges in California. + +After Dr. Davie had finished his medical course in California he came +to Victoria and entered into practice with his father. + +[Portrait: John Chapman Davie, M.D.] + +When I was about fifteen years old I was troubled a deal with my +throat and was under his father's treatment. I was obliged to give up +singing in consequence, being a choir boy in Christ Church. In my +frequent visits to the doctor's surgery I became acquainted with Dr. +Davie, Jr., who undertook the treatment of my throat until I was able +to resume my choir duties. Both Dr. Davie and his brother +Alexander were members of the choir at this time, and regular in +attendance at service and choir practice. I can see with my mind's +eye at a choir practice both brothers. Mr. Cridge, the rector, always +conducted these practices, and he asked each brother in turn to sing +his individual part over in the anthem, as they were to take solos, +he (Mr. Cridge) beating time as they sang. I might say that we had +some fine singers in the choir in those days, and more anthems were +sung than even now. His brother Horace and I were school-fellows at +the Church Collegiate School, which was situated on Church Hill, just +about where Mr. Keith Wilson's residence now stands. It was built as +a Congregational Church, and was destroyed by fire about 1870. + +At the time I first became acquainted with Dr. Davie his father's +office was situated where Challoner & Mitchell's store now stands, +and was a very unpretentious affair--as most business places were in +Victoria at that time--a wooden one-story frame cottage of three +rooms. The doctor's first office was on the corner of Government and +Bastion, where Richardson's cigar store stands. At the former office +my friend studied and worked with his father until the latter's +death, when the son continued the practice in his own behalf. + +From Mr. Alexander Wilson, who was a director of the Royal Hospital +at the time, I am told a deal about Dr. Davie's early medical career. +He says the young doctor was ambitious to become medical officer to +the Royal Hospital, then situated on the rock at the top of Pandora +Street, and asked Mr. Wilson to try and get the position for him, +even without salary, and Mr. Wilson, having great faith in the young +man, promised to do his best, and at a meeting of the board, consisting +of Alexander McLean, J. D. Robinson, Henry Short and Alexander +Wilson, Dr. Davie was duly elected, and at a salary of 100 pounds +per annum, and held the position for over twenty years. He entered on +his duties with great zeal, his first surgical case being that of an +Indian girl who was accidentally shot on Salt Spring Island. The poor +girl's arm was badly shattered, and she was brought down from the +island in a canoe. It was a bad case, but the doctor pulled her +through and, saving her arm, sent her home again as good as ever. + +Dr. Davie was fond of music, and in early days was proficient on the +flute, contributing to the programme of many a concert for charity in +those days when amateurs did so much to entertain the public. + +That the subject of this sketch was a clever man goes without saying. +Many there are, and have been, who have been snatched from grim death +by this skilful surgeon. By some he was thought to be bearish and +unsympathetic, but they who thought so did not know him as I did, or +they would not have thought so. Where there was real suffering and +danger there could not have been a more gentle, kinder-hearted or +careful man. Because he did not always respond to a friend's +salutation in passing it was taken as bearishness or indifference. It +was really pre-occupation. He was thinking out a difficult case for +the next morning at the hospital. As he once said to a lady friend, +"They little know the hours I pass walking up and down at night +thinking out a case I have to operate on--how I shall do it to make +it a success." I went into his office one day and found him with a +surgical instrument on his knee which he seemed very intent on, and I +asked him what it was for. He hesitated for a moment, then said, "You +would not understand." But still he explained it all to me. It +was for an operation in the morning on the stomach of a patient at +one of the hospitals, and I have no doubt it was successful. About +seven years ago he attended me for typhoid fever, and even then he +had his bad spells of sickness, but still he came regularly, and on +reaching the top of the stairs to my room he would hold on till his +coughing fit was over. "Well, old man, how are you to-day?" After I +had taken a turn for the better and was very susceptible to the smell +of good things cooking downstairs, I asked him when I should be +allowed to have something solid, and added, "Oh, I am so tired of +milk and egg-nog; when may I have a bit of chicken or mutton?" + +"Well, how many days is it since your temperature was normal? Well, +in so many days you may have jelly and junket." + +"Is that all?" I replied, disappointed. + +"Look here, old man, I want to get you well, and you must be +patient." + +"That reminds me of a little story," said the doctor. "Some years ago +two men were digging a deep ditch on Johnson Street to repair a +sewer. Some time after both the men were taken sick, which turned out +to be typhoid fever, and, being single men, they were taken to the +hospital. I saw them every day in my regular round of visits, and +they progressed towards recovery until they got to the stage that you +have, and complained of my bill of fare. They asked for 'something +solid,' and I put them off with the same answer you got. A day or two +after in making my regular rounds I noticed that one of my patients +was not in evidence and I asked his friend where he was. Then the +story was told me of his friend having had some visitors, one of whom +brought a cooked chicken, part of which was eaten on the sly and +the balance hidden under the mattress. The result was that he was +then out in the morgue, having died that day, and in due time, to +conclude my little story, his friend, who had no chicken, left the +hospital cured." + +"Now," said Dr. Davie, "I'll go; you are in good hands (my wife's); +be patient and ponder on my little story." + +It is pretty well known that Dr. Davie had had only one lung for +years past, but that did not prevent him attending to his numerous +patients. The many who to-day are indebted to his skill and kindness +of heart will feel a great sorrow at his passing. Many of his former +patients have told me of his refusal of pay for valuable services +rendered them. At the conclusion of a sickness a patient would likely +say: "Well, doctor, I am grateful for your pulling me through. I +shall have to pay by instalments. Here is something on account." + +If the doctor did not know his circumstances he would say: "How much +is your salary?" On his replying he (the doctor) would say: "If that +is all you get you cannot afford to pay anything," and that was the +last the patient would hear of it. + +On a certain occasion I heard the experience of three in a small +party who had this or something to this effect to relate. With his +extensive practice he ought to have been a very wealthy man, but not +with such patients as these, of course, but if all the patients he +has had in years past had been charged for his valuable services he +would have been worth half a million instead of dying a comparatively +poor man. This last year I have visited him regularly, and many +events of early Victoria life have been recalled on these visits. +He repined at first when he knew that his days were numbered, saying, +"Fawcett, old man, don't I wish I could go back to the days when we +were young and took those trips to Cowichan. It is pretty hard to +go!" I fully agreed with him then, but when later he got so bad and +suffered so much, he prayed to go, and I again agreed with him, +poor fellow. This latter time was when to speak made him cough and +suffocate. "Old man, I cannot talk to you," and he would lie back in +an exhausted state, and I would go, sorry that I was unable to do +anything to relieve him, to slightly repay all his kindness to me +in the past. + +Tuesday last I with my wife paid my last call on him, he having +expressed a desire to see me. I little thought it was the last time I +should see him alive, for he said he would not go till October, he +thought, and I believed him. + +Well, maybe I have said enough, but I could say a deal more if +necessary. What I have said will be echoed by many, I'm sure. + +So, in the words of Montgomery, the poet: + + "Friend after friend departs, who has not lost a friend? + There is no union here of hearts, that finds not here an end, + Were this frail world our only rest, living or dying none were blest." + + + + + +CHAPTER XXXII. + +THE BEGINNING OF THE ROYAL HOSPITAL AND PROTESTANT ORPHANS' HOME. + +In Mallandaine's "first directory" of Victoria, I note the following: +"We have an hospital started by Rev. Edward Cridge, and now sadly +overburdened with debt." + +In course of conversation with Bishop Cridge one day I learned the +history of this--the first public hospital of Victoria--which, in due +course, became the Royal Jubilee Hospital. + +It was in 1858 that one day a sick man was found lying on a mattress +in Mr. Cridge's garden. The man admitted he had been brought there by +certain parties, their names being known to Mr. Cridge. I asked Mr. +Cridge why they had brought the man to him, and clandestinely, too? +"Oh, they thought I was the proper man, and I suppose I was under the +circumstances." He continued: "We set to work at once to meet the +case, and temporarily rented a cottage owned by Mr. Blinkhorn, on the +corner of Yates and Broad Streets, now occupied by the B. C. Hardware +Company (the first patient's name was Braithwaite), and placed W. S. +Seeley, afterwards of the Australian House, at the north end of James +Bay bridge, in charge as steward, and Dr. Trimble being appointed as +medical officer in charge." This was the beginning. Afterwards +there was a wooden building erected on the Songhees Reserve, on the +site of the Marine Hospital. Later on the hospital was again moved +to Pandora Hill, and by the exertions of Mrs. (Senator) Macdonald, +Mrs. Harris (wife of Mayor Harris) and Mrs. Cridge, a female +infirmary was built there, but afterwards merged into a general +hospital. It will be seen from this that my dear old friend, Bishop +Cridge, as also Mrs. Cridge, were first in this most important +work for the relief of the suffering humanity of Victoria. Nor +was this all. + +I might state that Mrs. (Senator) Macdonald, with Mrs. Cridge, were +the founders of the Protestant Orphans' Home, through Mrs. Macdonald +having a family of orphan children brought to her notice by some +friend. She first of all found homes for the individual children; +then as other cases were brought to her notice she, with Mrs. Cridge, +took the matter up and rented a cottage, putting a Miss Todd in +charge of the children. In course of time, the children increased, so +that a larger building was rented on the corner of Blanchard and Rae +Streets. Even these premises in time became too small, and another +and final move was made through the munificence of the late John +George Taylor, a member of Bishop Cridge's congregation, who left all +his property, some thirty thousand dollars, to the founding of the +present home. + +Mr. Taylor, whom I had known for many years, told me of the great +interest he took in these orphans. He paid daily visits to the home, +and assisted in many ways to help it along. Bishop Cridge and Mrs. +Macdonald have seen these institutions grow from the smallest +beginnings to their present state of usefulness, which must be a +source of congratulation to both. + +Craigflower School House. + +With respect to what has appeared in the paper lately _re_ +"Craigflower School House," the following may be interesting: + +In early days (1856) Rev. Edward Cridge held services at stated times +in the school house, and later on services were held regularly by the +chaplains of H.M. ships stationed in Esquimalt harbor, and later on +by Rev. (now Bishop) Garrett and Rev. C. T. Woods. + +I quote from Mr. Cridge's diary, which is mentioned in his Christmas +story of "Early Christmas in Victoria," that on August 24th, 1856, he +held a religious service in the school house with Mr. Cook, the +gunner, and Mr. Price, midshipman of H. M. S. _Trincomalee_. + +In the Victoria _Gazette_ of August, 1858, Rev. Edward Cridge, +acting for the Governor, examined the pupils and presented the prizes +to the following: Jessie McKenzie, William Lidgate, Christine Veitch +and Dorothea McKenzie. + +The first master of the school was J. Grant; the second Claypole, and +afterwards Pottinger, Newbury and Pope. + +With respect to the building itself, I might say that it was built +under the direction of Mr. McKenzie, of Craigflower. The lumber used +in its construction was manufactured from fir trees on the ground in +a mill built by mechanics sent out from England. + +The residence of the late Mr. McKenzie, which stands to the west of +the Craigflower bridge, was also built of lumber sawn in this mill, +and not of redwood imported from California, as stated lately. There +are several men and women living to-day who attended this school in +the early sixties. + +[Illustration: Craigflower School.] + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIII. + +VICTORIA'S FIRST Y.M.C.A. + + +The _Colonist_ has been handed the following self-explanatory +matter, bearing upon the founding in this city of a branch of the +Y.M.C.A., which is of especial interest: + +"Dingley Dell, September 29th, 1911. + +"_R. B. McMicking, Esq., President Y.M.C.A._ + +"Dear Sir,--In searching through the files of the _Colonist_ of +1859 for items of forgotten lore that might be of interest to our +early pioneers, I came across the enclosed interesting account of the +forming of a branch of the Young Men's Christian Association in +Victoria fifty-two years ago (September 5th, 1859), and am sorry I +did not remember it sooner, so that it could have been read at the +opening exercises, but 'better late than never.' I shall accompany it +with some comment. + +"In the first place, it is likely that all those present on that +auspicious occasion are gone to their everlasting rest, with the +notable exception of our dear friend, the Venerable Bishop Cridge, +who is within a few weeks of entering on his ninety-fifth year. His +has been indeed a life of doing good, for he, in early days, was at +the head of all good work for the betterment of mankind. The chairman +on that occasion was Colonel Moody, R.E., who had lately arrived in +the colony with the sappers and miners. + +"The three Protestant denominations then established in Victoria were +represented by the Rev. Edward Cridge, as already stated; Rev. Dr. +Evans, of the Wesleyan Methodists, and the Rev. W. F. Clarke, of the +Congregational Church. Of the laymen mentioned, there was Judge +Pemberton, father of Mr. Chartres Pemberton; J. T. Pidwell, father of +the late Mrs. D. W. Higgins; Judge Cameron, C.J.; Captain Prevost, +father of Charles J. Prevost, of Duncans, who was a very prominent +naval officer, and later an admiral, who was an indefatigable +Christian worker. Mr. Sparrow, of the post-office, whose son is a +respected resident to-day, and also William H. Burr, master of the +Colonial School, of which I was then a pupil. Mr. John F. Damon, on +second thoughts, may be in the land of the living, and a resident of +Washington. The society must have fallen into disuse in later years, +for I understand the present institution is about twenty-six years +old. I do not know that I can say anything more on this interesting +subject but to wish it every prosperity. + + "And believe me ever, yours truly, + + "Edgar Fawcett." + +From Victoria _Colonist_ of September 5th, 1859: + +"Pursuant to public notice the Supreme Court room was filled on +Saturday evening by a large and respectable audience for the purpose +of organizing a Young Men's Christian Association. + +"Colonel Moody, R.E., on taking the chair, requested the Rev. E. +Evans, D.D., Superintendent of the Wesleyan Mission, to open the +meeting by prayer; after which the chairman explained the object of +the Association, and urged with great cogency the importance of +scientific and historical knowledge to young men, and the immense +advantages which they would derive from Divine assistance in pursuing +those various branches of study which were essential to the good +citizen and Christian. + +"The Rev. E. Cridge, pastor of the Victoria Established Church, then +moved the following resolution: + +"'That this meeting, recognizing the usefulness and importance of +Young Men's Christian Associations, is gratified to find that steps +have been taken to establish one in this town.' + +"He supported it at some length with many pertinent illustrations, +and expressed himself warmly in favor of the institution. + +"T. J. Pidwell, Esq., seconded the motion. He adverted to the good +results from similar institutions elsewhere; passed some strictures +upon the alarming increase of saloons, and concluded that the +organization of a Christian Association with its Library, and the +opportunity which it would afford for the discussion of general +theological and political questions would have a powerful tendency to +guard the young men of this colony from falling into habits +destructive of good morals. + +"The Rev. Dr. Evans, with an eloquent and forcible speech then moved: + +"'That this meeting pledge itself to encourage and support by every +means in its power this the first Young Men's Christian Association +established in Vancouver's Island.' + +"His remarks exhibited the greatest degree of tolerance. All narrow +views in the organization and working of the Association were +undesirable. To cherish the great essentials of religion as laid down +by the founder of Christianity was the principal object of the +institution. The moral and spiritual advantages to the young men of +the colony arising from the Association he was satisfied would be +very great. It deserved every encouragement, and he heartily +concurred in promoting the object of its founders, and hoped it +would not only secure moral but financial support. + +"The Rev. W. F. Clarke, Congregational Missionary, with great +pleasure seconded the motion, and supported it with a speech of +considerable length, replete with argument and illustration, +portraying the advantages of the Association in a community like +this, where there was so little public opinion to influence and +direct young men; whilst there were so many things incident to the +love of money in a gold country to induce youth to contract habits +adverse to the progress of morals and religion. + +"A. F. Pemberton, Esq., then moved: 'That the following gentlemen be +requested to act as office-bearers for the ensuing year. Patron, +His Excellency, the Governor; President, Col. Moody, R.E.; +Vice-Presidents, Judge Cameron and Captain Prevost, R.N.; Committee, +Messrs. A. F. Pemberton, Pidwell, Sparrow, Burr, Holt, Damon, Evans +and Cunningham, with power to add to their numbers; Secretary, Mr. +Cooper.' + +"He concurred in the object of the Association; and briefly adverted +to the fact that the Rev. Mr. Cridge and himself had, a year ago, +contemplated a similar institution. + +"John Wright, Esq., seconded the motion. + +"Col. Moody having retired from the chair, it was filled by J. T. +Pidwell, Esq., when the Rev. Dr. Evans moved 'That the thanks of the +meeting be presented to Col. Moody for the very able manner in which +he had occupied the Chair.' + +"Seconded by the Rev. Mr. Clarke, and passed with applause. + +"Col. Moody then briefly replied that he came here from England with +the sole object of promoting the best interests of the country, and +in aiding in the promotion of the objects of this Association he was +but performing his duty. + +"All the speakers were repeatedly applauded; and all the resolutions +passed by acclamation. + +"The Doxology having been sung, the Rev. E. Cridge pronounced a +benediction, when the meeting dispersed, highly gratified with the +organization of the First Young Men's Christian Association of +Victoria, Vancouver Island." + +[Illustration: Sir Richard McBride.] + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIV. + +THE LATE MR. T. GEIGER. + + +About thirty-five years ago, maybe a little more, it was a fine +bright summer afternoon and rather warm. The sun beat down on the +awnings on the east side of Government Street. It was the custom then +for all stores to have wooden awnings with a kind of drop curtain +awning which rolled up and down, and on the summer afternoons it was +sure to be down. But to proceed; when all these drop curtains were +down the sidewalk was enclosed from one end of the street to the +other. Before I proceed to say anything more about these awnings and +sidewalks, I will have to admit that our city was not the Victoria of +to-day, and I am sure I shall hardly be credited if I assert that a +cannon might have been fired down the centre of Government Street, +and chances taken of not striking anyone. I mean that a time could +have been chosen when it could have been done with perfect safety. On +any of these quiet afternoons, a sudden uproar might have been heard +of a flock of geese alighting from a distance on Government Street to +feed on the sides of the streets on the grass that grew there. As +they passed up the street they chattered away, likely discussing the +quiet times which permitted them to make a feeding ground of the +chief business street of the city. During the time the geese are +chatting with one another, several little groups of Victoria's +respected citizens are having their afternoon chat on the several +topics of the day. I see them now, as I saw them then, a row of +chairs, some of them tipped back and the occupier perhaps smoking. +There was, likely, Alexander Gilmore, merchant tailor. Then half a +dozen guests in the front of the Colonial Hotel, which was next door +to Fletcher's music store; then Joe Lovett of Lovett's Exchange, and +then the subject of my little sketch, Tommy Geiger. He was well known +and well liked by all, and fond of a joke was Tommy. No one ever +thought of calling him other than "Tommy" in those good old days. +Very few fortunes were made in those days on Government Street, or +those summer afternoon chats, sitting on tipped-up chairs would not +have been held. + +It must have been a slack time of the day to be able to enjoy +themselves in this free and easy manner. A customer goes into one of +these stores, the proprietor gets up, goes in to serve him, and then +returns to his seat to resume the conversation. They did not worry, +they lived quietly, were able to bring up their families as they +should, and to-day these families represent some of our best business +men. So I say "_requiescat in pace_." He was an enthusiastic +fireman in those days when volunteer firemen did so much for nothing +and that efficiently, too. + + +THE ROSTER OF THE "FIFTY-EIGHTERS" IN THE PROVINCE. + +The following is a list of those who remain of the twenty thousand +people who arrived in Victoria from San Francisco in 1858, the first +year of the gold excitement: + + Anderson, James R. November. Str. Cortez, from San Francisco. Ar. with sister; retired Deputy + Minister of Agriculture + Adams, Frank. July Str. Pacific, from San Francisco. Ar. young, with father and mother; + now with firm of E. B. Marvin & Co. + Allatt, Frederick. August 12. Str. John L. Stephens, Ar. young, with father and mother; + from S. Francisco. now carpenter and contractor + Alexander, March. Str. Oregon, from San Francisco. Ar. with wife and son + Charles. + Borde, August. April. Str. America, from San Francisco. Ar. with father and mother; + now Municipal Water Rates Collector + Booth, Samuel. September. Str. Cortez, from San Francisco. Ar. with brother + Borthwick, Ralph. July 7. Str. Orizaba, from San Francisco. Ar. single; hotel-keeper + Burnes, Thomas J. May 11. Str. Commodore, from San Francisco. Ar. single; hotel-keeper, now Customs + Officer; was prominent fireman in early days + Chambers, Walter. Ar. with father and mother + Cogan, August. Ship Oracle, from San Francisco. Ar. with father and mother + Mrs. George. + Collins, Henry. August. Ship Oracle, from San Francisco. Ar. with father and mother + Gribble, Henry. June. Str. Republic from San Francisco. Ar. single; gold miner, then + engaged in retail business + Harrison, July. Str. Brother Jonathan, Ar. with husband, son and daughter + Mrs. Eli, Sr. from S. Francisco. + Harrison, Eli. July. Str. Brother Jonathan, Ar. with father, mother and sister; + from S. Francisco. now Judge + Hastings, August. Ship Oracle, from San Francisco. Ar. with father, mother and sister. + Mrs. Oregon C. Maiden name Layzell + Helgeson, Hans. July 4. Str. Brother Jonathan, Ar. single + from S. Francisco. + Higgins, David W. July 19. Str. Sierra Nevada, Ar. single; newspaper proprietor, + from San Francisco. retired + Humphreys, Dec. 28. Overland, from California. Ar. single; gold miner, + William. now in Customs + Lombard, Charles. August. Str. Oregon, from San Francisco. Ar. with father and mother; + now in the optical business + Marvin, July. Str. Pacific, from San Francisco. Ar. with husband and son + Mrs. Edward. + McPhadden, Mrs. July. Str. Brother Jonathan, Ar. with father, mother and brother. + from S. Francisco. Maiden name Harrison + Moore, John. July. Str. Cortez, from San Francisco. Ar. with father, mother and brother. + Purser C.P.R. Co. + Moore, William. July. Str. Cortez, from San Francisco. Ar. with father, mother and brother. + Miner in Alaska + Moore, James. May. Via Bellingham Bay, Ar. single; gold miner + from San Francisco. + Phillips, July. Str. Pacific, from San Francisco. Ar. with husband and son. + Mrs. Alexander. Resident of Seattle, Wash. + Phelps, August. Ship Oracle, from San Francisco. Ar. with husband; + Mrs. Edward. now widow in this city + Scott, June. Barque George Anna, Ar. with husband; + Mrs. William. from San Francisco. now widow in this city + Seward, Thomas W. May. Barque D. M. Hall, Ar. single; gold miner + from San Francisco. + Sere, John B. June 11. Str. Republic from San Francisco. Ar. with wife and son; + was prominent hotel-keeper--Hotel de France + Stelly, George. May. Str. Oregon, from San Francisco. Ar. single; contractor + Wolfenden, Mrs. H. August. Ship Oracle from San Francisco. Ar. with father and mother + +This list and statement has been compiled with the greatest care +by the undersigned, who has lived in this city continuously since +February 13th, 1859, when he arrived with his mother and three +brothers on the steamer Northerner, from San Francisco, Cal., +his father, Thomas Lea Fawcett, having arrived the previous year, +July, 1858. + + Sept. 1st, 1908. + + EDGAR FAWCETT. + +The undersigned, who has lived in this city since July, 1858, +certifies to the correctness of this statement. + + D. W. HIGGINS. + +Note--Since the original list was compiled in 1908, thirteen +have since died, leaving thirty-one remaining, as per above list, on +March 1st, 1912. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXV. + +ROSTER OF THE FIFTY-EIGHTERS + + +Being those remaining in 1908 of the 20,000 people who came to +Victoria from California in the year 1858. Total, 45.--E. F. + +Before the year 1858, Victoria was a trading station or fort of the +Hudson's Bay Company. In that year the news that gold had been +discovered on Fraser River had reached San Francisco. It was not long +ere the news travelled all over California and craft of all kinds +were soon on the berth for Victoria. The list of steamers alone is +a long one, and they were mostly taken off the Panama route, and +are all to-day a thing of the past. There was the _Pacific_, the +loss of which caused the greatest loss of life of them all put +together, the _Cortez_, _John L. Stephens_, _Oregon_, _America_, +afterwards the _Brother Jonathan_, _Orizaba_, _Commodore_, +_Republic_, _Sierra Nevada_, and several smaller ones. + +Of those on the framed list there is Frank Adams, who has spent the +best part of his life here, and is a partner in the firm of E. B. +Marvin & Co.; James R. Anderson, late deputy minister of Agriculture, +whose father was the first Collector of Customs for Vancouver Island +in 1858; Frederick Allatt, who has also been here from childhood, and +whose father was an early time contractor; Charles Alexander, of +Saanich; August Borde and his mother, the former water rates +collector for the city; Samuel Booth, who was in business in the +city market building; Ralph Borthwick, and Thomas J. Burnes, formerly +hotel men, and the latter a chief of the early Volunteer Fire +Department. Walter Chambers, who came an infant, and who is so well +known in connection with the lumber industry of this city; Mrs. +George Cogan and Mrs. Henry Collins, two daughters of the late Mr. +Rabson, of Esquimalt and Comox; Alexander Gilmore, one of the pioneer +clothiers of this city; Henry Gribble, who for years kept a fancy +goods store, and who is to-day blind; Mr. Judge Harrison and his +mother, whom I have known since 1859; Mrs. O. C. Hastings, _nee_ +Miss Layzell, with whom I went to school in 1859; David W. Higgins, +of whom I need say little, as he is so well known as an editor and +writer of such interesting stories of early pioneer life; William +Humphreys, late alderman and Cariboo miner; Samuel Kelly, who was +another prominent volunteer fireman, chief of the early fire +department; Charles Lombard, who was an amateur singer, assisted to +make life pass pleasantly at the various concerts of early times; +Mrs. Edward Marvin, mother of Mr. Frank Adams; Mrs. McPhaden, of +Vancouver, and sister of Judge Harrison; Captain William Moore, the +veteran steamboat captain, one of the best known men of British +Columbia; Mrs. Moore, John Moore, the veteran purser, and his brother +William; James Moore, one of the discoverers of gold on the Fraser +River; Mrs. Alex. Phillips, her son, whose husband and father was a +pioneer soda water maker of the early days; Mrs. W. Scott, whose +husband was steward on so many of the early steamers of these waters; +Louis G. McQuade, of P. McQuade & Sons; Thomas W. Seward, a veteran +miner of Cariboo, and who is a familiar figure on our streets +to-day as he strolls about; John B. Sere, of the Richmond, a former +proprietor of the Hotel de France, on Government Street; Chas. +McK. Smith, brother of Amor de Cosmos, founder of the _Colonist_; +Stephen A. Spencer, a pioneer photographer; George Stelly, owner +of the Clarence Block, and a pioneer teamster of long ago; Frank +Sylvester, who died a month ago; Mrs. Julia Travis; Joseph W. Carey, +formerly mayor; E. Cody Johnson, caretaker of the city market; Mrs. +R. Wolfenden, wife of the King's Printer. This list will be framed +and hung in the Parliament Buildings for the inspection of the sons +and daughters of the above in the years to come. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVI. + +MORE LIGHT ON CLOSING OF VIEW STREET. + + +I had intended to let "View Street" and its closing up in 1858 alone, +being content that I had proved that it was understood in 1858 that +it reached to Wharf Street, but I have since come upon some +interesting evidence bearing upon it and so give it to those old +timers whom I am sure will be interested. Firstly, there is to be +seen plainly painted on a verandah on a building facing on what was +then known as View Street, opposite the Hudson Bay Company's store +"View Street," and I also produce an editorial in the _Colonist_, +written by my old friend Amor de Cosmos, November 14, 1859, which +proves that it was a burning question at that time and here it +is verbatim. + + The British _Colonist_, Printed and Published by Amor + De Cosmos, Wharf Street, East side, between + Yates and View Streets, Victoria, V. I. + Friday, September 9, 1859. + +This was cut out of the file that contained the editorial, as +further proof. + +E. Fawcett. + +[Illustration: View St.] + +"We have long been aware that the Hudson's Bay Company claim the +ownership of the streets of Victoria. In fact, in 1858 their title +was so far asserted as to sell a portion of the street where Johnson +and Wharf Streets unite at Victoria bridge. + +"They also shut up one street at the south end of the Fort and opened +another a little beyond. Besides this they promised in 1838 to the +purchasers of lots on View Street that that street should be opened +from Broad to Wharf. Instead of fulfilling their promise like an +honest company, that street was actually closed, instead of opened, +by blocking up the west end by a large brick police building. It is +true that since May last--when the Government reserve between Yates +and the block house was seized by the Company, with the consent of +His Excellency--a small alley has been opened where View Street ought +to be, but even that by some unknown authority, assumed by the Police +Commissioners, has been closed to vehicles. That authority will, +however, soon be tested, if the obstacle is not speedily removed, as +purchasers of lots in the reserve are entitled to its use. Had it not +been for our timely exposure of the intentions of the Company, the +line of Wharf Street would have been deflected like an elbow, from +Reid's corner southerly. The last act, however, of the honorable +Hudson's Bay Company, is not only contemptible, but 'unjust and +oppressive,' although His Excellency Governor Douglas, in his +despatch of October 25, 1858, said that the often asserted charge in +England that the Company 'had made an unjust and oppressive use of +their power in this country,' is altogether unfounded. + +"It appears that the agent of the Company sold last week all the +trees on our streets to a party for firewood. Mr. Pemberton, Police +Commissioner, at the request of some property holders, cut down the +two oaks at the corner of Government and Yates Street, but it was no +sooner done than Dr. Tuzo presented a bill to him for twenty dollars, +ten dollars each. Opposite Mr. Adams' property on Douglas and +View Streets, Mr. Adams forbid the parties, but in his absence they +were felled. He then claimed the trees, as they were intersected +every way by his property. But Dr. Tuzo threatened him with five +hundred dollars damages, assuring him that the trees belonged to the +Company. Up Fort Street a number of oaks have been felled. Aside +from the vandalism which would sell and cut down a single tree +for a few paltry dollars, where it was no obstruction to travel, +but an ornament to the street--the act of itself is a foul +wrong--unwarrantable and without a particle of right to support it, +either in law or equity. We cannot well conceive how that the +agents of the Company could do such a scurvy trick--such an act +of vandalism--except that they have been influenced to do so by a +resident San Francisco landshark. Selling the trees therefore may +be to maintain color of title to the streets. But that will prove +useless. Viewing the townsite as their private property, when they +sold they forever conveyed away their claim to the streets. But the +townsite is not private property, although it has unjustifiably been +so claimed from the first settlement of the Colony. As private +property the Company have no claim to it which will stand the test +of law or equity. It is to all intents and purposes in the same +condition as the lands of Cowichan, Nootka or Cape Scott; and the +funds derived from the sale as justly belong to the Territorial +revenues of the Colony. Taking then the townsite to be like other +lands, subject to the conditions of the grant, (which we will +hereafter prove) we find that one of the conditions says: 'That the +said Company shall (for the purposes of colonization) dispose of all +lands hereby granted to them, at a reasonable price, except as much +thereof as may be required for public purposes.' The streets are +used for public purposes--and for that reason the Company have no +more right to them, nor the trees, than anyone else. Their act of +felling trees on the public streets, and their intimation, deserves +the strongest mark of public censure--and merits the attention of +the proper authorities. + +"Besides if our connection with the Hudson's Bay Company is not +speedily ended we may expect many more such trumped-up claims as +their claim to the streets, which they will want us to pay for." + +I think my pioneer friends will now agree with me that enough +evidence has been furnished to prove my contention that View Street +was originally intended to reach from Wharf Street to Cook Street, +and farther if necessary. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVII. + +BISHOP CRIDGE'S CHRISTMAS STORY. + + +Some years ago the _Colonist_ requested several "old timers" +to write for the Christmas number a description of Christmas as it +was observed in the early days in this city. + +The following were those who wrote: The Venerable Bishop Cridge, Hon. +Dr. Helmcken, Hon. D. W. Higgins, and the author of these +reminiscences. I was so much interested myself in these stories (as I +am in all Christmas stories), I decided, with the consent of the +writers, to reproduce them in my book; not only as interesting, but +as very instructive, describing, as they do, life in the pioneer days +of the colony. + +[Portrait: Rev. Edward Cridge, 1859.] + +In essaying to write an account of my first Christmas at Victoria, I +am met at the beginning with the inconvenient fact that I kept no +journal, my only written records relating simply to my ministry or to +things purely personal or domestic. What I write, therefore, is not a +history, seeking materials from any and all sources of information, +nor a biography, dealing with the writer's proper business in life, +but a narrative of incidents occurring to memory, interesting to the +reader only because they refer to the early history of our beloved +city. + +Another thing has to be considered, namely, that as, after fifty +years and more, the remembered incidents of a particular day or +season would occupy but a few lines to relate, such a season may +properly be regarded in relation to things going before and things +following after. + +In this view, my memory carries me back to a very happy day, April 1, +1855, when the good sailing ship _Margius of Bute_, chartered by +the Hudson's Bay Company to bring its freight and passengers, +including myself as chaplain and district minister of Victoria, my +wife and servants, to this far-off island, calling at Honolulu by the +way, cast anchor off Clover Point, so terminating a voyage of about +six months' duration from London. The next day, having moved to the +inner harbor, we made our first acquaintance with several Victorians, +who came on board to give us and our _compagnons de voyage_ a +cordial welcome. That same morning we received an invitation from His +Excellency Governor Douglas to luncheon, who also sent a boat to take +us ashore; the boatman was good John Spelde, concerning whom I +curiously remember my wife telling me that her domestic, Mary Ann +Herbert, referred to him later in the day as the "man with the +fingers," he having lost three of those members in the firing of a +salute on some ceremonial occasion. + +After the luncheon, never to be forgotten for the cordial welcome of +His Excellency and Mrs. Douglas and their interesting family, not to +say the delicious salmon and other delicacies after shipboard fare, +we were conducted to the Fort, which was to be our temporary abode +till the Parsonage, which then began to be built, should be finished. +I have no recollection of the impression produced on my mind as we +entered by the south gate the large square fenced in by tall +palisades and frowning bastions, only I am certain I had no fear of +being imprisoned in this stronghold of the great Adventurers; on the +contrary, I distinctly remember that as, proceeding past the central +bell-tower to our rooms, on the north side, east of the main +entrance, we entered the spacious, though empty, apartments +destined for our reception, my wife fairly danced for joy at our +release from the long and tedious confinement on shipboard. The very +emptiness of the rooms was a charm. It was the new home to which from +her mother's house in London only a few days before sailing together +to the other end of the world, I had brought her, and what bride does +not joy to see her work awaiting her, though the house be empty and +bare! With the help of our two servants, and local carpenters, +supplies from the Company's stores, and our ample outfit, she soon +effected a transformation. + +I remember also, something of the evening and night of that first +day; the tea and fresh milk and bread and butter; and how, when +settling ourselves to sleep for the night, we saw a large white rat +crossing the stovepipe which ran through our bedroom from the great +Canadian stove in the sitting-room. It is curious how trifling things +cleave to the memory, while the monotonous things of everyday life, +which are our proper business, give no signal. + +The next morning I was introduced to several officers and cadets of +the company messing at the Port: W. J. Macdonald, now our well-known +representative in the Senate; B. W. Sangster, Farquhar, Mackay, +Newton, Sangster (Sangster's Plains Postmaster), also to Chief Factor +Finlaison, who lived in a house in the southwest corner of the Port; +and Dr. Helmcken, now, for reasons of state, the Hon. J. S. Helmcken, +residing with his wife in the house which he still occupies; later J. +D. Pemberton, who returned from England, bringing his sister, Miss +Pemberton. + +Looking back now to my first Sunday service, I have no recollection +of it as distinguished from other similar services to follow. +From my written records only I find that the text of my sermon on +the occasion was, "Go ye into all the world and preach the gospel to +every creature," and that I referred in the conclusion to the Crimean +War just ended; but there is pictured in my memory the figure of a +man coming past the bell-tower with a prayer book under his arm, +"going to church." Him I was afterwards to know as good John Dutnall, +a dear and faithful friend to me as long as he lived. + +The church services were held in the messroom. There was no +instrument and no organized choir. Of those whose voices contributed +to this part of divine worship I think only Mrs. W. J. Macdonald +survives. + +As to my first Christmas Day, which this year ('55) fell on a +Tuesday, I can remember nothing of it as distinguished from other +Christmas Days to follow (more than fifty in number); but my records +say that my text was, "Glory to God in the highest, and on earth +peace, goodwill towards men." But where we dined, what we had for +dinner, or how we spent the day, my wife might have told, but I +cannot. I know that we spent many Christmas evenings at the +Governor's very pleasantly, and this may have been, and probably was, +one of them. I remember that one New Year's Eve there was a violent +snowstorm, which hindered me from holding a service at Craigflower, +as I had intended, but my records show what I do not in the least +remember, that I preached at Craigflower on New Year's Day. I also +remember that by Christmas Day we had moved into the Parsonage, and +that my two sisters, who had arrived at Esquimalt from England, a +week before, were with us on that day. I remember a good deal about +the Parsonage in those early days. It was almost in the country. +As it was at first unfenced, my wife was often afraid at noises. One +night we heard a scraping, and she was sure that someone was breaking +into the house. I tried to persuade her that burglars did not +announce their presence in that open fashion. However, to reassure +her, I reconnoitred, and found it was only an old sow rubbing her +back against an old shed nearby. + +The Parsonage ground was all wild, but the soil good, and as it was +my future home, the task of trying to make it a worthy appendage of +the district church was a pleasant one. My servant, James Ravey, was +a good gardener, but rather more inclined to the useful than the +ornamental. When my wife wanted to enlist his interest in flower +gardening, he remarked that the flowers he had liked best were +cauliflowers. However, she had her way, he nothing loath. Dr. +Helmcken liberally supplied us with a variety of flowers from his +well-kept garden, among which I remember daisies--not the wee, +modest, crimson-tipped flowers, but variegated beauties, gorgeous +through ages of culture. There was not a wild daisy in the country; +but now they are spreading everywhere, as if when left alone they +preferred their natural state. The Governor also took a kindly +interest in the work, offering valuable hints as to the planting of +fruit trees, etc. Mr. Work, of Hillside, also sent me a fine lot of +young ornamental trees, which flourished well. A good gardening book +was loaned me of the company--a long loan, I think, as I have +possession of it still. + +So the garden, though nothing to boast of in the artistic point of +view, yielded abundance of fruit. + +[Portrait: Bishop and Mrs. Cridge.] + +But if it were pleasant to get into the Parsonage, it by no means +follows that life in the Fort was dreary; on the contrary, some +of our happiest hours were spent there. Besides my satisfaction with +the present and hopes for the future, coupled with the companionship +of one who had full possession of my heart and life, we were forming +and cementing friendships which were to endure for many a long year. +Not only this--there were pleasant musical and social evenings. There +were voices and instruments; Mrs. Mouat, with the piano brought out +with her from England; Mr. Augustus Pemberton, lately arrived from +Ireland with his flute; Mr. B. W. Pearse, with his violin; I did what +I could with my 'cello, the instrument my father had and played when +a boy. + +It was also during those early days that we, my wife and I, had our +first experience of the Governor's delightful riding parties on +Saturday afternoons, when the officers of the Company and friends, +their wives and daughters, rode merrily across the country unimpeded +by gates or bars. I remember the first, when my wife, who did not +ride, had her first drive in the Governor's carriage--a homemade +vehicle, without springs, as befitted the times and the place; our +destination was Cadboro Bay, which we reached by a trail which, +beginning near the Fort, lay all through open country without a house +or field till we arrived at the Company's farm at that beautiful +spot; and though I cannot remember what we did there on that day, I +remember well that on many another day I had to send man and horse +there for meat for my family. + +On another occasion our ride lying along the Saanich trail, when near +the North Dairy farm the Governor called a halt; a man stepped out +and fired up into a tree and a grouse fell dead; he reloaded and +fired up into the same tree again and another grouse fell dead. +I, if no one else in the party, was astonished at conduct so +different from that of birds in civilized countries. Whether it was +the proper time for grouse-shooting I know not, for I have no record +of the date, nor, indeed, of the occurrence. Perhaps the Natural +History Society might be able to explain why the second bird behaved +as it did. I think it was in the same ride that another halt was +called, it being reported that a bear was in a thicket near the +trail. All listened and looked, and when I remarked to the Governor +that I thought I heard the creature roar, His Excellency said, "Bears +do not roar!" I believe he was right, for though we read in both +versions of the Bible, "We all roar like bears," I have reason to +believe that the translation is incorrect, besides believing also +that the man whose life is largely spent in the wilds is more likely +to be right on such a point than the scholar in his study. Perhaps +the Natural History Society may throw some light on this question +also: "Do bears roar?" + +In those early days there were frequently several men-of-war in +Esquimalt harbor at once. Being the only Protestant clergyman then in +the Island, I often visited them and had much pleasant intercourse +with the officers. But my memory serves me little as to particulars. +I find the following entries: + +"Aug. 28, '55.--Attended a prayer meeting on board H. M. S. +_Trincomalee_." + +"Sept. 9, '55.--_Trincomalee_ sailed and _President_ +arrived." + +"Oct. 28, '55.--The Reverend Holme, Chaplain of H. M. S. +_President_, preached for me in the afternoon at the Fort." + +"Aug. 11, '55.--H. M. S. _Monarch_ arrived." + +"Sept. 14, '56.--Mr. Green, Chaplain of the _Monarch_, preached +for me in the afternoon;" also "on Sept. 21." These last two +sermons were preached in the district church (called "Christ Church," +after my church in London), it having been opened and divine service +held therein the month before. + +"Aug. 30, '56.--The Governor went in the _Trincomalee_ to +Cowichan to demand the Indian who had lately shot a white man." The +wounded man was brought to the Fort, where I visited him. He +recovered and was sent away to be safe from the Indians' vengeance. +The Indian who shot him was delivered up by his tribe, was tried and +executed in their presence. + +"Aug. 21, '56.--Held a prayer meeting at the Parsonage, with Mr. +Cook, the gunner, and Mr. Price, midshipman, both of the +_Trincomalee_. + +"Aug. 24, '56.--Held a prayer meeting with Mr. Cook, of the +_Trincomalee_, in the Craigflower school-room." + +From the above records it would appear that the _Trincomalee_ +was in these waters over a year at this period. I think her presence +had to do with the Russian war. It was after Admiral Price shot +himself on account of some error he had committed in the war. I +remember the Governor saying to me one day, that he had received +instructions from the Home Government to build a hospital at +Esquimalt for some wounded sailors expected down from Petrapolowski, +but had not been told where the money was to come from. The hospital +was built, however, but I do not remember that any wounded were +brought; but I remember visiting afterwards a sick Victorian, who +died there. The present naval hospital is, I believe, the one I refer +to. + +About this time I remember an American ship-of-war coming with a +United States Commissioner on board to settle with Governor Douglas +the boundary between the British and American territories on the +mainland, and his attending divine service in the district church, +and my including the United States President in the church prayers. + +I remember also my wife's inviting Lieutenant Parry, of one of H. M. +ships, to stay a few days with us at our rooms in the Fort, he being +in delicate health and having just heard of the death of his father, +Sir Edward Parry, the celebrated Arctic navigator and explorer. + +As the latter died in July, 1835, the visit referred to would be +shortly after this. I have still the gold pencil case he gave me as a +memento of his visit. He died not long afterwards, and I had some +correspondence in reference to the sorrowful event with Bishop Parry +(his brother, I think). + +I remember also, though the names escape me, the captain of one of +the ships telling me a thrilling story of his recently finding the +remains of a Captain Gardiner and his party, who had been starved to +death on some shore in the neighborhood of Cape Horn, a tragedy which +caused widespread interest and pity at the time. + +At this time there were no local newspapers. Mails were received from +England once a fortnight, fetched by canoe from the American side; +ships from England once a year. The opening of the annual box from +friends there was an exciting event to my wife. _The Otter_ +(Capt. Mouat) was occasionally sent to San Francisco for requisites. +In the same vessel I remember our going with Governor Douglas to San +Juan Island, then in possession of the British, and Mr. Griffin, the +Company's officer in charge there, presenting my wife with a +beautiful fawn, which we brought back with us. + +I know not what the population of Victoria might be at that +time, though I think two hundred would be the outside; the population +on the whole island being about six hundred. You could, I think, +count the houses on each of the four principal streets--Government, +Fort, Yates, Johnson--on the fingers on one hand. I only remember +three on James Bay side, to reach which, there being no bridge to +connect with Government Street, you had to go round by where the +Church of Our Lord now stands. + +For reasons which will presently appear, I regard the Christmas +season of 1855 as the ending of a first chapter of the very +remarkable history of this province of British Columbia, to be +followed by another in the ensuing year destined to include events +which the most far-seeing at the time could not possibly have +imagined. I write simply as an observer, included, indeed, in the +great movement, but not, strictly speaking, a working part of it. A +time was coming, as we now know, when a flood of people was suddenly +to overflow our city, sweeping onward to and over the mainland like a +tidal wave from the great ocean of life; but whether it was by some +fortunate chance decree of an overruling Providence, it did not come +till the city was better than of old and prepared to deal with it. + +The time had now come when the dual government--the _imperium in +imperio_--was to cease, and the people to stand in direct relation +to the sovereign. Influenced, as we have reason to believe, by +complaints of the settlers, it was decided by the Home authorities to +grant them a free constitution after the English model, so far as +popular representation was concerned. And so it came to pass that +within eight months after Christmas, 1855, the newly-elected +representatives of the people were, in the name of Her Majesty the +Queen, called together by the Governor in a room within the Fort, +and by him, with counsel and prayer, commended to the long-coveted +duties of legislation. Thus was a small shoot of an Empire +unsurpassed for the freedom of its subjects well and truly planted in +the western shore of the vast possessions of Great Britain, this side +of the provinces in the East, and now did the people, rejoicing in +their freedom, begin to look for expansion and progress. But with +what hope? What was the prospect of their reaching the conditions +which we see to-day? + +[Portrait: Bishop Cridge.] + +Looking at the more than twenty years it had taken to reach their +present population of six hundred souls; looking at the +inaccessibility of the Island to all but a few adventurous or wealthy +immigrants; allowing also full force to the new attraction of a land +whose people enjoyed the privilege of self-government; I think the +most sanguine in that day could not have expected such a result as we +see to-day in a less period than centuries to come. To us who know +what brought it to pass; to us who know that the real efficient cause +of the marvelous effect was the strongest passion and incentive to +adventure that ever actuated the mind of man, it all seems natural +and easy; but to the six hundred in 1856 it would have seemed a +dream. At the same time it must, I think, be admitted that such a +sudden inrush must have endangered, if not the independence, at least +the peace and order of the community on which it fell. For what, we +may ask, might have been the consequence if the cry of gold for the +picking up had been raised earlier, in the time, say, of the dual +government, when, as is well known, the people were discontented with +a government which, excellent as it confessedly was for the times, +had its own profit first of all to be considered, instead of +coming, as it did, to a people which, rejoicing in its newly-found +freedom, was not to be reckoned on for favoring any schemes of +wildness or riot? I do not suggest any danger of invasion or +overthrow of the government when hundreds of thousands of +gold-seekers from the neighboring country filled the streets of our +little city; England's far-reaching arm sufficed to cope with that; +but I do suggest danger to law and order afterwards. For this the +presence of warships in Esquimalt harbor could afford but slight +remedy. The remedy must be in the people themselves and in the +administration of law. A little leaven leavens a great lump, but in +this case the leaven of discontent being removed, the lump remained +uncontaminated. That this was how order was restored will appear from +what followed after the suppression of the disorder which broke out +among the miners at the beginning. + +Mr. Augustus F. Pemberton, commissioner of police, was staying at my +house when, after he had gone to bed, a message came from the Chief +of Police that the town was in an uproar, and that the miners were +threatening to take the city. Mr. Pemberton immediately repaired to +the Governor's and reported. His Excellency's first impulse was to +fix on his sword; but he changed his mind and sent a messenger +express to order a gunboat from Esquimalt. Meanwhile Mr. Pemberton +went into the city and conferred with the miners till the gunboat +arrived, and thus ended the matter. + +As I went with Mr. Pemberton to the Governor's house and to the city +on this occasion, I write as an eye-witness. I may say that my +impression is that there was no serious intention on the part of the +miners as a body to take the city by force. I knew too many of +them afterwards, of good and peaceable conduct, to think it. But it +was well that the disorderly among them should begin their education +in English law by this prompt display of force. + +I now note a singular condition of things, as conducive to the +continuance and perpetuation of the order thus restored. The miners +at this time to the number, it was computed, of some ten thousand, +were encamped in the open spaces of the city, waiting for the most +suitable time for proceeding to the mainland in their search for +gold. I do not remember how long the time was that they waited, but +it was certainly some weeks. And what I wish emphatically to say is, +that this interval afforded them a unique opportunity of learning +what British law and order meant. Mr. Pemberton was their teacher. +Fearless, untiring and vigilant, he suppressed every disorder as it +arose. There was need. + +A man was killed in a duel on Church Hill. Thenceforth it was at a +man's peril to be found with a revolver on his person, and so the +odious practice fell into disuse. + +The effect of this practical education in obedience to law on the +thousands thus gathered together in one place can easily be imagined. +Not only did they become peaceable and orderly, and even friendly, +while here, even meeting in a body to hear the Governor's advice as +to their movements, but wherever they were scattered abroad on the +mainland, lawlessness was a thing unknown among them as a body, and +they wrought as if they remembered the Governor's parting words which +still seem to sound in my ears: "There is gold in the country, and +you are the men to find it!" + +Thus I think it is plain that Mr. Pemberton was practically the real +exponent of British law and order in that arduous time. We do not +forget what is due on the mainland to Matthew Baillie Begbie, Chief +Justice, who dealt rigidly with offenders committed for trial before +him. His inflexible administration of the law struck terror into the +hearts of evildoers. Still less must we forget the man at the helm +and master of the ship, His Excellency Governor Douglas, who, by +his sagacity, penetration, and godly fear, coupled with his long +experience of personal rule over men, ever knew what to do and when +to do it. + +Thus from Victoria went forth an influence for law and order +throughout the land, which will not soon pass away. Our little city +has ever been noted as being English in character and law-abiding in +conduct. May she remain so. She does well to rejoice and be thankful +for the natural beauties which so richly adorn her site. Let her also +so continue to follow the right, the good, the loving and the true, +that she may for this also be as a city set on a hill whose light +cannot be hid. + +Regarding, as I do, the six hundred islanders with the patriotic +Governor at their head as the real foundation of the things to come +in the second chapter of their history, I have written from memory +such names as my position enabled me to become acquainted with at +that early period, intending to add them to this paper, but space +forbids. + +And now I should earnestly desire to send my Christmas greetings to +the people of Victoria; first to the few dear old friends that remain +of the old Fort days, and next to those who have come later, from all +of whom I have received kindnesses which God alone can repay. May His +blessing rest on all and each one not only of our beloved city, but +on the whole of this our Province of British Columbia, for we are all +one, as the name imports. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVIII. + +CHRISTMAS REMINISCENCES BY HON. J. S. HELMCKEN. + + +Hudson Bay Days. + +You ask me to give some information as to the observance of Christmas +Day in the early days of the Colony, say fifty-five years ago. I may +say at once that there were no set forms of celebration in those +days, save that the chaplain, Rev. Mr. Staines, held divine service +in the mess-room, a hall that served for baptisms, deaths and +marriages, also balls and other recreation. At the same time Rev. +Father Lamfpet, a missionary Catholic priest, assembled his flock in +a shanty, built chiefly by himself and plastered with clay, which had +wide cracks in it. This edifice stood on Courtney Street, between +Douglas and Government. Of course Christmas Day was a holiday. + +[Portrait: Dr. Helmcken.] + +In the early days changes came quickly. In 1852 Captain Langford, +wife and family arrived. They were in some way connected with the +then Governor Blanchard. T. Skinner, Esq., wife and family arrived at +the same time. These were British and cultured people. Langford and +Skinner were agents of the Puget Sound Company, so with them came a +large number of Britishers, to open up and cultivate farms at +Colwood, the latter near the now Naval Hospital at Esquimalt. Captain +Grant and Captain Cooper were here, and soon came the noble, +steadfast laird, Mr. Kenneth McKenzie, wife and family. These brought +their customs with them, so of course Christmas observances. It +will thus be seen that Christmas and other customs came with the +immigrants, and from the planting of that seed, the present Christmas +observances have grown. In Scotland and America the day is much more +observed than formerly; all did as they pleased--shooting, hunting, +fishing and visiting being the chief recreations, and getting as good +a dinner as possible, perhaps practise at the Beacon, a barrel +riddled with bullets, and standing on a long pole. This beacon was a +mark for ships. Another stood near the water to the north. Captain +Sangster used to perambulate here, a telescope in hand, watching for +the annual Hudson's Bay Company's ship, the signal being two guns. + +No waits at night, no chimes, no bells, no Christmas carols, no +pianos, in fact no musical instruments of any kind, save the bell of +the Fort. On one occasion a dance and supper were determined on, but +where was the band? Nothing but Mr. Tod and his fiddle existed. Mr. +Tod, a good soul, peace be with him, ever ready to assist, assisted. +Mr. Tod had a peculiarity; when playing he would cast off a shoe, and +kept time by stamping the resounding floor with his stockinged foot. +However, an employee came forth, "I can help you, sirs; give me a +sheet of tin." He got it, and in a short time came back with a tin +whistle, on which he played admirably. This was the band, and +everyone enjoyed the dance and everything else. The band, too, was +the orchestra at a night of private theatricals, in which J. D. +Pemberton and Joseph McKay were the star actors, whilst the +others handed round port, ale, cider, ginger beer, oranges, lemons +and nuts--that is to say they would if they had them. + +There were no public-houses nor public amusements at this time, +turkeys unknown and beef scarce. In fact a rudimentary Christmas +festival of a holiday, not holy-day, type. + +It may be here remarked that sixty years ago Christmas Day was but +little observed in Scotland, and the same may be said of America. In +England, however, where it was and is a statute holiday, Christmas +was universally celebrated. Essentially it was a children's day and +one of family reunions, and in those days when travelling was +expensive and tedious, this meant more than it does to-day. The +visitors received a joyous welcome, not a sort of empty every-day +one. Plum pudding, roast beef, and mince pies and nuts were the order +of the day, for beverage various kinds of drinks. Holly and mistletoe +and evergreens obtained in nearly every house; in fact it was a +joyous day from morn till night. Games of various kinds were played. +Toys for children, rudimentary toys and picture books, cheap, and +such as the too knowing children of to-day would turn up their little +noses at, and my goodness! the fun of the mistletoe and mulberry +tree! Spreading of course from British Columbia, but in sober earnest +to the immortal Charles Dickens' works, particularly the Pickwick +Club and the annual "Christmas Stories." + +The holly now, as in England, generally used, is not indigenous, but +grown from introduced seed chiefly. The berried holly is now in great +demand all along the Pacific shores, and American purchasers +are eager to buy it. Curiously, it grows well in Victoria and +neighborhood, but fails as it grows south. Mistletoe, a parasite, +used of old in the mystic rites of the Druids, does not grow here, +but a species thereof comes from the States, which serves its usual +purpose, in spite of all moral reformers and the scientific maxims +of the dangers of bacteria (bacteria of love) incurred in and by +osculation. Who cares about this kind of danger when under the +mistletoe at Christmas--the fun and pleasure of obtaining it or at +"blindman's buff," and the pretended wish and effort not to be +caught. None of this in Victoria in 1850. How soon after? + +Oh, the merry days when we were young! Turkeys were rare, but Dr. +Trimble had a turkey which he kept on his premises on Broad Street. +Daily he and Mrs. Trimble would visit his treasure, who with his +fantail erect and feathers vibrating and with a gobble-gobble and +proud step would show his pleasure at the meeting, but the doctor and +wife, although admiring and loving the proud and handsome bird, had +murderous thoughts in their "innards," and declared he would be a +splendid bird by Christmas for dinner, so in due course they invited +some half dozen friends to eat the turkey on Christmas Day. A few +days before Christmas, the doctor and wife, on their daily visit, +found the turkey had vanished. Inquiries were made for it, and the +invited friends were assiduous in helping to unravel the mystery, and +concluded in the end that it had been stolen. They condoled and +sympathized with the bereaved, and tried to assuage the grief by +telling Trimble and wife that they would give him a dinner on +Christmas Day instead! The grief-stricken parties accepted the +invitation, as the best thing to be done under the unfortunate +circumstances. So on Christmas Day they assembled very jollily. +The earlier courses were eaten with fizz, etc. Now comes up the +principal dish, which being uncovered displayed a fine cooked turkey. +Trimble was a good-natured fellow, so you may easily foretell what +followed. Who stole the turkey? The echoes of their laughing, +intertwining shadows reply "Who-o-o?" + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIX. + +MY FIRST CHRISTMAS DINNER IN VICTORIA, 1860. + + +By D. W. H. + +"Ask and it shall be given you; seek and ye shall find; knock and +it shall be opened unto you. For every one that asketh receiveth; +and he that seeketh findeth, and to him that knocketh it shall be +opened."--Matt. 7:7, 8. + +On the 22nd day of December, 1860, nearly fifty-three years ago, I +sat in the editorial room of the _Colonist_ office on Wharf +Street, concocting a leading article. Mr. Amor De Cosmos, the able +editor and owner, had contracted a severe cold and was confined to +his room at Wilcox's Royal Hotel, so the entire work of writing up +the paper for that issue devolved upon me. The office was a rude, +one-story affair of wood. It had been erected for a merchant early in +1858, and when he failed or went away the building fell into Mr. De +Cosmos' hands. On the 11th December, 1858, Mr. De Cosmos established +the _Colonist_, which has ever since filled a prominent and +honorable position in colonial journalism. Our office, as I have +remarked, was a rude affair. The accompanying picture will convey a +better idea of its appearance than anything I might write. The +editorial room was a small space partitioned off from the composing +room, which contained also the little hand-press on which the +paper was printed. A person who might wish to see the editor was +forced to pick his way through a line of stands and cases at which +stood the coatless printers who set the type and prepared the forms +for the press. + +[Portrait: Amor de Cosmos.] + +The day was chill and raw. A heavy wind from the south-west stirred +the waters of the harbor and hurling itself with fury against the +front of the building made the timbers crack and groan as if in +paroxysms of pain. A driving rain fell in sheets on the roof and +drops of water which leaked through the shingles fell on the +editorial table, swelled into little rivulets, and, leaping to the +floor, chased each other over the room, making existence therein +uncomfortably damp. As I wrote away in spite of these obstacles I was +made aware by a shadow that fell across my table of the presence of +someone in the doorway. I raised my eyes and there stood a female--a +rare object in those days, when women and children were as scarce as +hen's teeth, and were hardly ever met upon the streets, much less in +an editorial sanctum. I rose to my feet at once, and removing my hat +awaited results. In the brief space of time that elapsed before the +lady spoke I took her all in. She was a woman of scarcely forty, I +thought; of medium height, a brunette, with large coal-black eyes, a +pretty mouth--a perfect Cupid's bow--and olive-hued cheeks. She was +richly dressed in bright colors with heavy broad stripes and +space-encircling hoops after the fashion of the day. When she spoke +it was in a rich, well-rounded tone--not with the nasal drawl which +we hear so much when across the line, and which some Victoria +school-girls and boys seem to delight in imitating in spite of the +efforts of their teachers. Taken all in all I sized the lady up as a +very presentable person. + +Having explained to her, in response to an inquiry, that the editor +was ill, she said that she would call again and went away after +leaving her card. Two days later, on the 24th of December, the lady +came again. + +"Is the editor still ill?" she asked. + +"Yes; but he will be here in the course of a day or two." + +"Ah! well, that is too bad," she said. "My business is of importance +and cannot bear delay. But I am told that you will do as well." + +I assured the lady that I should be glad to assist her in any way. +Thanking me, she began: + +"My name is Madame Fabre; my husband, who was French, is dead--died +in California. I am a Russian. In Russia I am a princess. (She paused +as if to watch the impression her announcement had made.) Here I am a +mere nobody--only Madame Fabre. I married my husband in France. We +came to California. We had much money and my husband went into quartz +mining at Grass Valley. He did not understand the business at all. We +lost everything. Then he died (and she drew a lace handkerchief from +her reticule, and pressing it to her eyes sighed deeply). Alas! Yes, +Emil passed from me and is now, I trust, in heaven. He left me a +mountain of debts and one son, Bertrand, a good child, as good as +gold, very thoughtful and obedient. May I call him in? He awaits your +permission without." + +I replied, "Certainly," and stepping to the door she called, +"Bertrand! Bertrand! my child, come here, and speak to the +gentleman." + +I expected to see a boy of five or six years, wearing curls, in short +trousers, a beaded jacket and fancy cap, whom I would take on my +knee, toy with his curls, ask his name and age and give him a +"bit" with which to stuff his youthful stomach with indigestible +sweetmeats. Judge my surprise when, preceded by the noise of a heavy +tread, a huge youth of about seventeen, bigger and taller than +myself, and smoking a cigar, appeared at the opening, and in a deep, +gruff voice that a sea captain or a militia commander would have +envied, asked: + +"Did you call, mamma?" + +"Yes, my dear child," she sweetly responded; "I wish to introduce you +to this gentleman." + +The "child" removed his hat, and I noticed that his hair was cut +close to the scalp. Having been duly introduced at my request he sat +down in my chair while I took a seat on the edge of the editorial +table, which was very rickety and would scarcely bear my weight at +the present day. + +The parent gazed at her son fondly for a moment and then proceeded: + +"Bertrand's fortune was swallowed up in the quartz wreck; but he is +very sweet and very patient, and never complains. Poor lad! It was +hard upon him, but he forgives all--do you not, dear?" + +"Yes," rumbled the "child" from the pit of his stomach; but the +expression that flitted across his visage made me think that he would +rather have said "No," had he dared. + +"That being the case I will now explain the object of my visit. As I +have said, we have lost everything--that is to say, our income is so +greatly reduced that it is now a matter of not more than $1,000 a +month. Upon that meagre sum my dear boy and I contrive to get along +by practising the strictest economy consistent with our position in +life. Naturally we wish to do better, and then go back to Russia +and live with the nobility. Do we not, Bertrand?" + +"Yes," rumbled the "child" from his stomach again, as he lighted a +fresh cigar. + +"Well, now, Mr. H.," the lady went on, "I want an adviser. I ask +Pierre Manciot at the French Hotel, and he tells me to see his +partner, John Sere; and Mr. Sere tells me to go to the editor of the +_Colonist_. I come here. The editor is ill. I go back to Mr. +Sere and he says, see D. W. H.; he will set you all right. So I come +to you to tell you what I want." + +She paused for a moment to take a newspaper from her reticule and +then continued: + +"After my husband died and left the debts and this precious child +(the "child" gazed abstractedly at the ceiling while he blew rings of +smoke from his mouth) we made a grand discovery. Our foreman, working +in the mine, strikes rich quartz, covers it up again, and tells no +one but me. All the shareholders have gone--what you call 'busted,' I +believe? We get hold of many shares cheap, and now I come here to get +the rest. An Englishman owns enough shares to give him control--I +mean that out of two hundred thousand shares I have got ninety-five +thousand, and the rest this Englishman holds. We have traced him +through Oregon to this place, and we lose all sign of him here." (Up +to this moment I had not been particularly interested in the +narration.) She paused, and laying a neatly-gloved hand on my arm +proceeded: + +"You are a man of affairs." + +I modestly intimated that I was nothing of the kind, only a reporter. + +"Ah! yes. You cannot deceive me. I see it in your eye, your face, +your movements. You are a man of large experience and keen +judgment. Your conversation is charming." + +As she had spoken for ten minutes without giving me an opportunity to +say a word, I could not quite understand how she arrived at an +estimate of my conversational powers. However, I felt flattered, but +said nothing. + +Pressing my arm with her hand, which gave me a warm feeling in the +neighborhood of my heart, she went on: + +"I come to you as a man of the world. (I made a gesture of dissent, +but it was very feeble, for I was already caught in the web.) I rely +upon you. I ask you to help me. Bertrand--poor, dear Bertie--has no +head for business--he is too young, too confiding--too--too--what you +English people call simple--no, too good--too noble--he takes after +my family--to know anything about such affairs--so I come to you." + +Was it possible that because I was considered unredeemably bad I was +selected for this woman's purpose? As I mused, half disposed to get +angry, I raised my head and my eyes encountered the burning orbs of +the Madame, gazing full into mine. They seemed to bore like gimlets +into my very soul. A thrill ran through me like the shock from an +electric battery, and in an instant I seemed bound hand and foot to +the fortunes of this strange woman. I felt myself being dragged along +as the Roman Emperors were wont to draw their captives through the +streets of their capital. I fluttered for a few seconds like a bird +in the fowler's net and then I gave up. The contest was too unequal. +God help me! The eyes had conquered and I lay panting at the feet, as +it were, of the conqueror. I have only a hazy recollection of what +passed between us after that; but I call to mind that she asked +me to insert as an advertisement a paragraph from a Grass Valley +newspaper to the effect that the mine (the name of which I forget) +was a failure and that shares could be bought for two cents. +When she took her leave I promised to call upon her at the hotel. +When the "child" extended a cold, clammy hand in farewell I felt like +giving him a kick--he looked so grim and ugly and patronizing. I +gazed into his eyes sternly and read there deceit, hypocrisy and +moral degeneration. How I hated him! + + * * * * * + +The pair had been gone several minutes before I recovered my mental +balance and awoke to a realization of the fact that I was a young +fool who had sold himself (perhaps to the devil) for a few empty +compliments and a peep into the deep well of an artful woman's +blazing eyes. I was inwardly cursing my stupidity while pacing up and +down the floor of the "den" when I heard a timid knock at the door. +In response to my invitation to "come in" a young lady entered. She +was pretty and about twenty years of age, fair, with dark blue eyes +and light brown hair. A blush suffused her face as she asked for the +editor. I returned the usual answer. + +"Perhaps you will do for my purpose," she said timidly. "I have here +a piece of poetry." + +I gasped as I thought, "It's an ode on winter. Oh, Lord!" + +"A piece of poetry," she continued, "on Britain's Queen. If you will +read it and find it worthy a place in your paper I shall be glad to +write more. If it is worth paying for I shall be glad to get +anything." + +Her hand trembled as she produced the paper. + +I thanked her and telling her that I would look it over she withdrew. +I could not help contrasting the first with the last visitor. The one +had attracted me by her artful and flattering tongue, the skilful use +of her beautiful eyes and the pressure of her hand on my coat sleeve; +the other by the modesty of her demeanor. The timid shyness with +which she presented her poem had caught my fancy. I looked at the +piece. It was poor, not but what the sentiment was there and the +ideas were good, but they were not well put. As prose it would have +been acceptable, but as verse it was impossible and was not worth +anything. + + * * * * * + +The next was Christmas Day. It was my first Christmas in Victoria. +Business was suspended. All the stores were closed. At that time in +front of every business house there were wooden verandahs or sheds +that extended from the fronts of the buildings to the outer edges of +the sidewalks. One might walk along any of the down-town streets and +be under cover all the way. They were ugly, unsightly constructions +and I waged constant warfare against them until I joined the +aldermanic board and secured the passage of an ordinance that +compelled their removal. Along these verandahs on this particular +Christmas morning evergreen boughs were placed and the little town +really presented a very pretty and sylvan appearance. After church I +went to the office and from the office to the Hotel de France for +luncheon. The only other guest in the room was a tall, florid-faced +young man somewhat older than myself. He occupied a table on the +opposite side of the room. When I gave my order M. Sere remarked, +"All the regular boarders but you have gone to luncheon and dinner +with their friends. Why not you?" + +"Why," I replied, with a quaver in my voice, "the only families that +I know are dining with friends of their own, whom I do not know. I +feel more homesick to-day than ever before in my life and the idea of +eating my Christmas dinner alone fills me with melancholy thoughts." + +The man on the other side of the room must have overheard what I +said, for he ejaculated: + +"There's two of a kind. I'm in a similar fix. I have no friends +here--at least with whom I can dine. Suppose we double up?" + +"What's that?" I asked. + +"Why, let us eat our Christmas dinner together and have a good time. +Here's my card and here's a letter of credit on Mr. Pendergast, Wells +Fargo's agent, to show that I am not without visible means of +support." + +The card read, "Mr. George Barclay, Grass Valley." + +"Why," I said, "you are from Grass Valley. How strange. I saw two +people yesterday--a lady and her 'child'--who claimed to have come +from Grass Valley." + +"Indeed," he asked; "what are they like?" + +"The mother says she is a Russian princess. She calls herself Mme. +Fabre and says she is a widow. She is very handsome and intelligent +and"--I added with a shudder--"has the loveliest eyes--they bored me +through and through." + +My new friend faintly smiled and said, "I know them. By and bye, when +we get better acquainted, I shall tell you all about them. Meantime, +be on your guard." + +After luncheon we walked along Government to Yates Street and then to +the _Colonist_ shack. And as I placed the key in the lock I saw +the young lady who had submitted the poetry walking rapidly towards +us. My companion flushed slightly and raising his hat, extended +his hand, which the lady accepted with hesitation. They exchanged +some words and then the lady addressing me asked, "Was my poem +acceptable?" + +"To tell you the truth, Miss--Miss--" + +"Forbes," she interjected. + +"I have not had time to read it carefully." (As a matter of fact I +had not bestowed a second thought upon the poem, but was ashamed to +acknowledge it.) + +"When--oh! when can you decide?" she asked with much earnestness. + +"To-morrow, I think"--for I fully intended to decline it. + +She seemed deeply disappointed. Her lip quivered as she held down her +head and her form trembled with agitation. I could not understand her +emotion, but, of course, said nothing to show that I observed it. + +"Could you not give me an answer to-day--this afternoon?" the girl +urged. + +"Yes," I said, "as you seem so very anxious, if you will give me your +address I shall take or send an answer before four o'clock. Where do +you reside?" + +"Do you know Forshay's cottages? They are a long way up Yates Street. +We occupy No. 4." + +Forshay's cottages were a collection of little cabins that had been +erected on a lot at the corner of Cook and Yates Streets. They have +long since disappeared. They were of one story and each cottage +contained three rooms--a kitchen and two other rooms. I could +scarcely imagine a refined person such as the lady before me +occupying those miserable quarters; but then, you know, necessity +knows no law. + +The girl thanked me and Barclay accompanied her to the corner of +Yates Street. He seemed to be trying to induce her to do +something she did not approve of, for she shook her head with an air +of determination and resolve and hurried away. + +Barclay came back to the office and said: "I am English myself, but +the silliest creature in the world is an Englishman who, having once +been well off, finds himself stranded. His pride will not allow him +to accept favors. I knew that girl's father and mother in Grass +Valley. The old gentleman lost a fortune at quartz mining. His +partner, a Mr. Maloney, a Dublin man and graduate of Trinity College, +having sunk his own and his wife's money in the mine, poisoned his +wife, three children and himself with strychnine three years ago. By +the way, I met a Grass Valley man this morning. His name is Robert +Homfray, a civil engineer. He tells me he is located here +permanently. He and his brother lost a great deal of money in the +Grass Valley mines, and we talked over the Maloney tragedy, with the +circumstances of which he was familiar, but the strangest part of the +story is that three months ago the property was reopened and the very +first shot that was fired in the tunnel laid bare a rich vein. Had +Maloney fired one more charge he would have been rich. As it was he +died a murderer and a suicide. Poor fellow! In a day or two I will +tell you more. But let us return to the poetry. What will you do with +it?" + +"I fear I shall have to reject it." + +"No, no," he cried. "Accept it! This morning I went to the home of +the family, which consists of Mr. Forbes, who is crippled with +rheumatism, his excellent wife, the young lady from whom we have just +parted and a little boy of seven. They are in actual want. I offered +to lend them money to buy common necessaries and Forbes rejected +the offer in language that was insulting. Go immediately to the +cottage. Tell the girl that you have accepted the poem and give her +this (handing me a twenty-dollar gold piece) as the appraised value +of her production. Then return to the Hotel de France and await +developments." + + * * * * * + +I repaired to the cottages. The road was long and muddy. There were +neither sidewalks nor streets and it was a difficult matter to +navigate the sea of mud that lay between Wharf and Cook Streets. The +young lady answered my knock. She almost fainted when I told her the +poem had been accepted and that the fee was twenty dollars. I placed +the coin in her hand. + +"Mamma! Papa!" she cried, and running inside the house I heard her +say, "My poem has been accepted and the gentleman from the +_Colonist_ office has brought me twenty dollars." + +"Thank God!" I heard a woman's voice exclaim. "I never lost faith, +for what does Christ say, Ellen, 'Ask and it shall be given you, seek +and ye shall find; knock, and it shall be opened.' On this holy +day--our Saviour's birthday--we have sought and we have found." + +This was followed by a sound as of someone crying, and then the girl +flew back to the door. + +"Oh! sir," she said, "I thank you from the bottom of my heart for +your goodness." + +"Not at all," I lied. "You have earned it and you owe me no thanks. I +shall be glad to receive and pay for any other contributions you may +send." I did not add, though, that they would not be published, +although they would be paid for. + +A little boy with a troubled face and a pinched look now approached +the front door. He was neatly but poorly dressed. + +"Oh! Nellie, what is the matter?" he asked anxiously. + +"Johnnie," answered Nellie. "I have earned twenty dollars, and we +shall have a Christmas dinner, and you shall have a drum, too." As +she said this she caught the little fellow in her arms and kissed him +and pressed his wan cheek against her own. + +"Shall we have a turkey, Nellie?" he asked. + +"Yes, dear," she said. + +"And a plum pudding, too, with nice sauce that burns when you put a +match to it, and shall I have two helpings?" he asked. + +"Yes, and you shall set fire to the sauce and have two helpings, +Johnnie." + +"Won't that be nice," he exclaimed gleefully. "But, Nellie, will papa +get medicine to make him well again?" + +"Yes, Johnnie." + +"And mamma--will she get back all the pretty things she sent away to +pay the rent with?" + +"Hush, Johnnie," said the girl with an apologetic look at me. + +"And you, Nellie, will you get back your warm cloak that the man with +a long nose took away?" + +"Hush, dear," she said. "Go inside now; I wish to speak to this +gentleman." She closed the front door and asked me, all the stores +being closed, how she would be able to get the materials for the +dinner and to redeem her promise to Johnnie. + +"Easily enough," said I. "Order it at the Hotel de France. Shall I +take down the order?" + +"If you will be so kind," she said. "Please order what you think is +necessary." + +"And I--I have a favor to ask of you." + +"What is it?" she inquired eagerly. + +"That you will permit me to eat my Christmas dinner with you and the +family. I am a waif and stray, alone in the world. I am almost a +stranger here. The few acquaintances I have made are dining out and I +am at the hotel with Mr. Barclay, whom you know and, I hope, esteem." + +"Well," she said, "come by all means." + +"And may I bring Mr. Barclay with me? He is very lonely and very +miserable. Just think, that on a day like this he has nowhere to go +but to an hotel." + +She considered a moment before replying; then she said, "No, do not +bring him--let him come in while we are at dinner, as if by +accident." + +I hastened to the Hotel de France and Sere and Manciot soon had a big +hamper packed with an abundance of Christmas cheer and on its way +upon the back of an Indian to the Forbes house. + +I followed and received a warm welcome from the father and mother, +who were superior people and gave every evidence of having seen +better days. The interior was scrupulously clean, but there was only +one chair. A small kitchen stove at which the sick man sat was the +only means of warmth. There were no carpets and, if I was not +mistaken, the bed coverings were scant. The evidence of extreme +poverty was everywhere manifest. I never felt meaner in my life, as I +accepted the blessings that belonged to the other man. Mr. Forbes, +who was too ill to sit at the table, reclined on a rude lounge near +the kitchen stove. Just as dinner was being served there came a knock +at the door. It was opened and there stood Barclay. + +"I have come," he said, "to ask you to take me in. I cannot eat +my dinner alone at the hotel. You have taken my only acquaintance +(pointing to me) from me, and if Mr. Forbes will forgive my +indiscretion of this morning I shall be thankful." + +"That I will," cried the old gentleman from the kitchen. "Come in and +let us shake hands and forget our differences." + +So Barclay entered and we ate our Christmas dinner in one of the +bedrooms. It was laid on the kitchen table, upon which a tablecloth, +sent by the thoughtful hosts at the hotel, was spread. There were +napkins, a big turkey and claret and champagne, and a real, live, +polite little Frenchman to carve and wait. Barclay and I sat on the +bed. Mrs. Forbes had the only chair. Johnnie and his sister occupied +the hamper. Before eating Mrs. Forbes said grace, in which she again +quoted the passage from Scripture with which I began this narration. +Oh! for a catchup meal it was the jolliest I ever sat down to, and I +enjoyed it, as did all the rest. Little Johnnie got two helpings of +turkey and two helpings of pudding and then he was allowed to sip a +little champagne when the toasts to the Queen and the father and +mother and the young and rising poetess of the family were offered. +Then Johnnie was toasted and put to bed in Nellie's room. Next it +came my turn to say a few words in response to a sentiment which the +old gentleman spoke through the open door from his position in the +kitchen, and my response abounded in falsehoods about the budding +genius of the daughter of the household. Then I called Barclay to his +feet, and he praised me until I felt like getting up and relieving my +soul of its weight of guilt, but I didn't, for had I done so the +whole affair would have been spoiled. + +Barclay and I reached our quarters at the Hotel de France about +midnight. We were a pair of thoroughly happy mortals, for had we not, +after all, "dined out," and had we not had a royal good time on +Christmas Day, 1860? + +The morrow was Boxing Day and none of the offices were opened. I saw +nothing of the Princess; but I observed Bertie, the sweet "child," as +he paid frequent visits to the bar and filled himself to the throttle +with brandy and water and rum and gin and bought and paid for and +smoked the best cigars at two bits each. As I gazed upon him the +desire to give him a kicking grew stronger. + +By appointment Barclay and I met in a private room at the hotel, +where he unfolded his plans. + +"You must have seen," he began, "that Miss Forbes and I are warm +friends. Our friendship began six months ago. I proposed to her and +was accepted subject to the approval of the father. He refused to +give his consent because, having lost his money, he could not give +his daughter a dowry. It was in vain I urged that I had sufficient +for both. He would listen to nothing that involved an acceptance of +assistance from me, and he left for Vancouver Island to try his +fortunes here. He fell ill and they have sold or pawned everything of +value. The girl was not permitted to bid me good-bye when they left +Grass Valley. After their departure the discovery of which I have +informed you was made in the Maloney tunnel and as Mr. Forbes has +held on to a control of the stock in spite of his adversities, he is +now a rich man. I want to marry the girl. As I told you, I proposed +when I believed them to be ruined. It is now my duty to acquaint the +family with their good fortune and renew my suit. I think I ought +to do it to-day. Surely he will not repel me now when I take that +news to him, as he did on Christmas morning when I tendered him a +loan." + +I told him I thought he should impart the good news at once and stand +the consequences. He left me for that purpose. As I walked into the +dining-room, I saw the dear "child" Bertrand leaning over the bar +quaffing a glass of absinthe. When he saw me he gulped down the drink +and said: + +"Mamma would like to speak to you--she thought you would have +called." + +I recalled the adventure with the eyes and hesitated. Then I decided +to go to room 12 on the second flat and see the thing out. A knock on +the door was responded to by a sweet "Come in." Mme. Fabre was seated +in an easy chair before a cheerful coal fire. + +She arose at once and extended a plump and white hand. As we seated +ourselves she flashed those burning eyes upon me and said: + +"I am so glad you have come! I do want your advice about my mining +venture. In the first place I may tell you that I have found the man +who owns the shares. He is here in Victoria with his family. He is +desperately poor. A hundred dollars if offered would be a great +temptation. I would give more--five hundred if necessary." + +"The property you told me of the other day is valuable, is it not?" I +asked. + +"Yes--that is to say, we think it is. You know that mining is the +most uncertain of all ventures. You may imagine you are rich one day +and the next you find yourself broke. It was so with my husband. He +came home one day and said, 'We are rich'; and the next he said, 'We +are poor.' This Maloney mine looks well, but who can be sure? +When I came here I thought that if I found the man with the shares I +could get them for a song. I may yet, but my dear child tells me that +he has seen here a man from Grass Valley named Barclay who is a +friend of that shareholder, and," she added, bitterly, "perhaps he +has got ahead of me. I must see the man at once and make him an +offer. What do you think?" + +"I think you might as well save yourself further trouble. By this +time the shareholder has been apprised of his good fortune." + +"What!" she exclaimed, springing to her feet and transfixing me with +her eyes. "Am I, then, too late?" + +"Yes," I said, "you are too late. Forbes--that is the man's +name--knows of his good fortune and I do not believe he would sell +now at any price." + +The woman gazed at me with the concentrated hate of a thousand +furies. Her great eyes no longer bore an expression of pleading +tenderness--they seemed to glint and expand and to shoot fierce +flames from their depths. They no longer charmed, they terrified me! +How I wished I had left the door open. + +"Ah!" she screamed. "I see it all. I have been betrayed--sold out. +You have broken my confidence." + +"I have done nothing of the kind. I have never repeated to a soul +what you told me." + +"Then who could have done it?" she exclaimed, bursting into a fit of +hysterical tears. "I have come all this way to secure the property +and now find that I am too late. Shame! shame!" + +"I will tell you. Barclay is really here. He knew of the strike as +soon as you did. He is in love with Miss Forbes and followed the +family here to tell them the good news. He is with the man at this +moment." + +"Curse him!" she cried through her set teeth. + +I left the woman plunged in a state of deep despair. I told her son +that he should go upstairs and attend to his mother, and proceeded to +the Forbes cottage. There I found the family in a state of great +excitement, for Barclay had told them all and already they were +arranging plans for returning to California and taking steps to +reopen the property. + +Miss Forbes received me with great cordiality and the mother +announced that the girl and Barclay were engaged to be married, the +father having given his consent at once. The fond mother added that +she regretted very much that her daughter would have to abandon her +literary career which had begun so auspiciously through my discovery +of her latent talent. + +I looked at Barclay before I replied. His face was as blank as a +piece of white paper. His eyes, however, danced in his head as if he +enjoyed my predicament. + +"Yes," I finally said, "Mr. Barclay has much to be answerable for. I +shall lose a valued contributor. Perhaps," I ventured, "she will +still continue to write from California, for she possesses poetical +talent of a high order." + +"I shall gladly do so," cried the young lady, "and without pay, too. +I shall never forget your goodness." + +I heard a low chuckling sound behind me. It was Barclay swallowing a +laugh. + + * * * * * + +They went away in the course of a few days and we corresponded for a +long time; but Mrs. Barclay never fulfilled her promise to cultivate +the muse; nor in her several letters did she refer to her poetical +gift. Perhaps her husband told her of the pious fraud we practised +upon her on Christmas Day, 1860. But whether he did so or not, +I have taken the liberty, fifty-three years after the event, of +exposing the part I took in the deception and craving forgiveness for +my manifold sins and wickednesses on that occasion. + +What became of the Russian princess with the pretty manners, the +white hands and the enchanting eyes and the sweet "child" Bertie? +They were back at Grass Valley almost as soon as Forbes and Barclay +got there, and from my correspondence I learned that they shared in +the prosperity of the Maloney claim, and that Mme. Fabre and her son +returned to Russia to live among her noble kin. + + + + +CHAPTER XL. + +EVOLUTION OF THE SONGHEES. + + +I often pass through the Songhees Reserve, and the recent controversy +respecting the reserve, and the dilapidated state of the former homes +of the Indians, induce me to recall the reserve as I knew it first, +when it was swarming with "flatheads," men, women and children. The +term "flathead" was applied to the Songhees on account of the shape +of his head, which was pressed flat with a piece of board strapped to +his forehead while he was in a state of infancy. + +In this state of bondage, if I may so term it, the "tenass man" +(infant) passed his infancy. He was fed, took his sleep, and carried +on his mother's back by a strap passing around his mother's forehead; +thus he got his fresh air and exercise. + +The mother, in fact all the females, chewed gum. I have always +credited our American cousins with having originated this beastly +practice, but now I suppose the credit for the discovery belongs to +the Songhees, who must have taught our friends, and then gave it up +themselves. Groups of men may have been seen carving miniature canoes +with carved Indians paddling in them, also totem poles and bows and +arrows, while three or four Indians would be at work shaping a +full-grown canoe which might possibly hold half a dozen Indians. It +was very interesting watching them at work and many an hour I have +spent watching them when a boy. The women, while their "papooses" +were playing about, worked also. Many made fancy articles out of +tanned deer hide, embroidered with pearl buttons and beads, moccasins +mostly, and for which there was a good sale. They were worn for +slippers. I have bought many pairs at fifty cents a pair. The +blankets they wore were decorated with rows of pearl beads down the +front, red blankets being the favorite color, as they showed off the +pearl beads to advantage. + +All these articles, as well as many others, such as game, fish and +potatoes and fruits, wild, were brought to our doors, and at prices +much below what such things could be bought now--grouse, 35c. to 50c. +a pair; wild ducks, the same; venison, from 5c. to 8c. a pound by the +quarter; potatoes, about 1-1/4c. pound; salmon, 10c. each; wild +strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, and bilberries, at about 5c. +pound. Even "gumstick" for lighting fires was brought to the door at +10c. a bundle. Their cries as they passed the doors might be heard at +all hours. "Ah! Culla Culla" (grouse and ducks), "Mowich" (venison), +"Oolally" (berries), "Sooke Oysters," "Salmon" and "Cowichan +potatoes." These oysters were small but very nice, and for +twenty-five cents you would get a bucketful; also the same quantity +of clams. "Ick quarter" or "King George" quarter (twenty-five cents), +bought almost anything. + +All these cheap foods were a godsend to early residents, and at the +same time were fresh and wholesome. The men and the young women went +out washing by the day, from seven to six o'clock, at fifty cents. + +[Portrait: Songhees Reserve.] + +The one drawback to them was their dishonesty. Small articles of +clothing, towels and handkerchiefs were easily hidden under their +clothing, so that a close watch had to be kept, and if suspected, +they were searched. The chief of the Songhees tribe was +"King Freezey." He might have been seen parading about town in a +cast-off naval officer's uniform with cap to match, and he was very +proud, as befitted such an august personage. When asked his name, +("ict micaa name") he would reply "Nica name, King Freezey, nica hyas +tyee." ("My name is King Freezey; I am a great man.") This king of +Songhees, after imbibing too freely of the ardent, was drowned by the +capsizing of a canoe in the harbor, and so ended the life of a +well-known personage. + +That he left descendants is evident, as I see their names amongst +those who got $10,000 each from the sale of the reserve. Compare +these descendants with their grandparents. The former's native +ignorance and simplicity, when their wants were simple and few, with +their grandchildren of to-day, who must have everything their brother +whites have, to modern houses and furniture, buggies, sewing +machines, musical instruments, etc., and not forgetting a bank +account, and last, but not least, post office boxes, and one may well +wonder at the "evolution of the Songhees." More might be said, but +for the present this must suffice. + +Indian Burying Grounds. + +Islands were favorite burying grounds among the Indians, probably +from the protection the surrounding water furnished against the +incursions of animals, and coffin islands may be found at different +points around the coast. In Victoria harbor and the Arm both Coffin +Island and Deadman's Island were used for this purpose within the +memory of such old-time residents as Mr. R. T. Williams and Mr. Edgar +Fawcett. Mr. Williams, whose memory goes back to the fifties, +when he went to school from a shack on Yates Street opposite the site +of the present King Edward Hotel, believes Colville Island may also +have been used for this purpose as well, but distinctly remembers the +trees and scrub on Deadman's Island and the fire on it described in +the following account, which is kindly furnished by Mr. Fawcett. Mr. +Fawcett writes: + +"Like the Egyptians of old, the Indians of this country had +professional mourners, that is, they acted as they did in Bible days. +The mourners, usually friends or members of the same tribe, assembled +as soon as the death was announced, and either inside or outside the +house they (mostly women, and old women at that) kept up a monotonous +howl for hours, others taking their places when they got tired. In +the early sixties an execution of four young Indians took place on +Bastion Square for a murder committed on the West Coast. All day and +night before the execution took place the women of the tribe squatted +on the ground in front of the jail, keeping up the monotonous howl or +chant, even up to the time the hangman completed his task. After +hanging the prescribed time, the murderers were cut down and handed +to their friends, who took them away in their canoes for burial. In +the earliest days, I don't think they used the regular coffin; the +common practice was to use boxes, and especially trunks. Of course +for a man or woman a trunk would be a problem to an undertaker, but +the Indian solved the problem easily, as they doubled the body up and +made it fit the trunk. For larger bodies a box was made of plank, but +I do not remember seeing one made the regulation length of six feet, +even for an adult, as they always doubled the knees under. A popular +coffin for small people was one of Sam Nesbitt's cracker boxes. He +was a well-known manufacturer of soda crackers and pilot bread, whose +place of business will be remembered by many old-timers at the corner +of Yates and Broad Streets. + +"The Indians rarely dug graves for their dead, but hoisted them up in +trees, tying them to the branches, or merely laid them on the ground, +and piled them up on top of one another. In time they fell into the +customs of their white brothers, and got coffins made by the +undertaker, and many a time I have seen Indians carrying coffins +along Government Street, down to the foot of Johnson, for their +reserve."--E. F. + +In 1861 Mr. Fawcett with four companions, all school-boys at the +time, were bathing on Deadman's Island, and had lit a fire to warm +themselves. Broken coffins were lying about, and piles of box coffins +and trunks; these were set fire to, and the boys promptly made off to +escape the wrath of the Indians, who, in those days, were numbered by +hundreds. They made good their escape, and the whole island was swept +by the flames--trees, scrub and coffins being burnt up. Since that +time the island has remained in its present condition. + +The Indians on the Songhees Reserve, also, Mr. Fawcett says, buried +at two points on the reserve, but when the smallpox worked such havoc +among them, the authorities insisted on the bodies being buried in +soil, and when the removal of the Indians was accomplished a special +amount was allotted to provide for the removal of the bodies +elsewhere.--Editor. + + + + +CHAPTER XLI. + +VICTORIA THE NEW AND THE OLD. + + +I have been asked to tell of some of the changes that have taken +place since Victoria, the fairest city of the West, commenced her +career, viz., in 1858. I have produced several photos that explain a +good deal without my help, but they may require explanation. As my +endeavor shall be to give our visiting friends of the Methodist +Church an insight into some of the changes in fifty years, I shall in +the small space of time allowed me confine myself to events connected +with the early history of the Methodist Church in Victoria, as I know +them. Although not a member of their body I have claimed many of the +founders of the church as my most intimate friends. There were Thomas +Trounce and Mrs. Trounce, Edwin Donald and Mrs. Donald, Sheriff +McMillan and Mrs. McMillan, Jonathan Bullen and Mrs. Bullen and +Father McKay (as he was called by his friends in the church), and +Mrs. J. W. Williams and Mrs. Lawrance Goodacre. + +Of the pioneer clergy I well remember Dr. Robson, Dr. Ephraim Evans, +Rev. Mr. Pollard and Rev. Mr. Derrick. Of these I best remember Dr. +Evans, as having been here so many years with his wife, daughter and +son. It will be remembered by old timers the sad story of his son's +death by drowning which I will in a few words relate. He was very +fond of gunning, and one afternoon in December he went off with +his gun to shoot duck from the beach off Beacon Hill, which was the +common practice in those days. Having shot one or two and not being +able to get them any other way, he stripped off his clothes and swam +out after them. This was a very bold thing to do, as the water is so +cold there, and especially in December. It is supposed he got the +cramps or got caught in the seaweeds where the ducks were shot from, +and so was drowned. Not coming home at his usual time, search was +made, and having been seen going to Beacon Hill, it was there the +searchers found his clothes and gun on the beach that evening. The +poor father seemed heart-broken, for he would not leave the spot, but +walked up and down all night calling "Edwin! Edwin, my son!" In the +morning they recovered the body under the seaweed. Great sympathy was +felt for the parents, and I well remember the funeral on a snowy day, +and the unusual number of friends who attended the funeral in the +old Quadra Street Cemetery. The granite monument is still to be +seen there. + +[Illustration: Bastion at S.W. corner of Fort.] + +In the view of Government Street in the early sixties here produced, +may be seen marked with a X Theatre Royal. In this building, which +then was used for theatrical productions, concerts and lectures, I +heard the Rev. Morley Punshon, then president of the Wesleyan +Conference, I think. He lectured on Macaulay, and was reciting from +"Lays of Ancient Rome" when the fire bells rang, and in less than +five minutes there were only a score or so left of his audience. He +stopped an instant, proceeded, but finally stopped for good, saying +that it was the first time he had ever had to stop one of his +lectures for a fire. But when he was told that it might have +been the home of any one of his audience and that it was the custom +for citizens generally to assist the firemen (who themselves were +volunteers), he continued his lecture to the end, and very +interesting it was. + +The first Methodist services were held in Judge Pemberton's police +court room on Bastion Square until the church on lower Pandora Street +was finished. This church was built on the corner of Broad and +Pandora on land given by Governor Douglas, and was considered just +outside the city (1859), the tall pine trees being much in evidence a +couple of blocks away. In order to get to the church you had to pass +over a gully with water at the bottom; a sort of trestle sidewalk on +stilts was afterward constructed until the gully was filled in. At +this date the Methodists had the most pretentious church in the city. +The basement was used for Sunday School, prayer meetings and +lectures. I must not forget the tea meetings which were given in +those days. They were presided over by prominent ladies of the +congregation--Mrs. Trounce, Mrs. Donald, Mrs. Bullen, Mrs. McMillan, +Mrs. Spencer and Mrs. N. Shakespeare--and the admission to these "tea +fights," as they were termed generally, was $1.50, and well +patronized they were at that price. I attended many, and I think I +can see now the tables spread with good things, and those sitting at +them, nearly all of whom have passed away. We were early birds in +those days. Entertainments commenced at six o'clock and all over at +ten. By the large view of Government Street in 1858 it will be seen +how it has progressed. It was not metalled until 1859, and nearly all +the buildings were frame. The first brick is now to be seen on +the corner of Courtney Street, the "Windsor Hotel." Where the +Empress Hotel now stands, and all the land to the south and east, was +the upper part of James Bay, and mudflats, and at times not very +savory. It was not until late in 1858, or 1859, that a bridge +connected the north and south sides of James Bay, people having to +walk around the bay eastwards. The population of James Bay District +was very sparse. Trails instead of streets ran in all directions. +Belleville Street, that is now so thronged with passengers to and +from the C.P.R. steamers every day, was not then in existence, for +the beach reached to the trees in the front of the Parliament +Buildings. Where the new Pemberton block now stands, down to the +corner of Government Street, was an orchard and vegetable garden. +Across the street where the Five Sisters Block stands was a vacant +lot with a log hut in the rear where the Hudson's Bay Company baked +bread for the citizens, four-pound loaves being twenty-five cents, +and very good it was. From Mr. Harry Glide, who arrived in Victoria +in 1856, and has lived near the Outer Wharf for fifty-four years, I +have learned much of the condition of things previous to the inrush +from California in 1858-1859. He says all James Bay District was +covered with fir trees and all the land from the mouth of the harbor +along Dallas Road to Beacon Hill was "Beckly Farm." He says there +were quite a number of Cherokee Indians here, who came from their +native place to the coast of British Columbia for work; most of them +were over six feet and strongly built. It seems strange that they +should have travelled so far from their homes for work. There were +also many Kanakas here who came on vessels from Honolulu at +odd times. They formed a small colony and located on Humboldt Street, +then called Kanaka Row. I can remember them in 1859, one family +attending Christ Church regularly. There are many buried in Old +Quadra Street Cemetery. The first sheets of the _Colonist_ were +printed on the Hudson's Bay Company's wharf in a large shed or +warehouse, and later on the paper moved to Wharf Street to about +where the Macdonald Block now stands. This was fifty-two years ago, +and our visiting friends can draw a comparison with what it then was, +a small double sheet, to its Sunday issue of to-day, with its many +illustrations. For the information of our visiting friends I might +say that the Hudson's Bay Fort shown in the view of "Government +Street in 1858," enclosed the two blocks running south from the +corner of Bastion (the brass plate on the corner will show this) to +the corner of Courtney and westwards to Wharf Street. In this fort +all hands took shelter at night at the date of its erection. In 1858 +and for years later, the fort bell rang at six o'clock in the +morning, when the gates at the east and west ends were opened, and at +six o'clock in the evening they were closed. There were two large +general stores, and many storehouses and barns inside, and at the +stores you could buy anything from a needle to an anchor, from a +gallon of molasses to the silk for a dress. I might say a deal more, +but it might not interest those for whom this sketch is written. As +it is, there are many repetitions of what I have already written in +the _Colonist_ and _Times_ during the last six years. + +The Metropolitan Methodist Church. + +To-day, February 13th, the Metropolitan Methodist Church celebrates +the fifty-third anniversary of its foundation as a congregation. It +was exactly fifty-three years ago yesterday that the first Methodist +missionaries, sent out by the Wesleyan Methodist Church of Canada, +then part of the English Wesleyan conference, landed in Victoria. +They were Rev. Dr. Ephraim Evans, his wife and family; Rev. Arthur +Browning, Rev. Ebenezer Robson and Rev. Edward White, who also +brought his family, one of his little sons being Rev. Dr. White, +to-day Superintendent of Methodist Missions in this province. Rev. +Dr. Robson was married shortly after his arrival. Of the gallant +little party who faced the hardships of the then comparatively little +known West with such tranquility and courage, all have now passed to +their rest, Dr. Robson, the last survivor, dying less than a year ago +in Vancouver. + +The missionaries were received by Mr. John T. Pidwell, father-in-law +of Mr. D. W. Higgins, and entertained in his home until they could +secure permanent quarters. The following Sunday, February 13, service +was held for the first time in the courthouse, and Rev. Dr. Robson +subsequently went on to Nanaimo, where he found Cornelius Bryant, a +young schoolmaster, who enjoyed the distinction of being the first +member of the Methodist Church to set foot in British Columbia. He +afterwards entered the Methodist ministry and died a few years ago. +Rev. Edward White was quartered in New Westminster, where he +established Methodism, and Rev. Mr. Browning, after acting as +evangelist at different coast points, became the pioneer Methodist +missionary in the Cariboo country. + +[Illustration: First Methodist Church.] + +Laying Corner-Stone. + +During the following August the corner-stone of the first Methodist +church in Victoria was laid. The building was situated at the corner +of Broad and Pandora Streets, and was afterwards known as the Pandora +Street Methodist Church. The stone was laid by Governor Douglas, and +the building was dedicated the following May. Its usefulness was +considerably lessened, however, by the building of the Metropolitan +Methodist Church in 1890, which claims the honor of being the mother +church of Methodism in the province, as, though the Pandora Street +edifice was built first, it was not used for church purposes alone. +The first pastor of the Metropolitan Church congregation was Dr. +Evans, who was assisted by Rev. Dr. Robson, Rev. Arthur Browning and +Rev. D. V. Lucas and Rev. Coverdale Watson (whose widow is now living +in Vancouver), who acted as pastor for two separate terms. + +Of the pioneers of Methodism, the following families were prominent +and whom I counted among my friends: The Trounces and Donalds we had +known in California; Sheriff McMillan and family, Captain McCulloch, +Mr. and Mrs. T. S. Bone, Mr. and Mrs. Humber, Mr. and Mrs. Norris, +Alderman Kinsman, and Father McKay, as he was affectionately termed +by his intimate friends. All these have gone to their rest. Of those +who are still with us, hale and hearty, are Mrs. Bullen, Mrs. Capt. +McCulloch, Mr. and Mrs. David Spencer, Mr. and Mrs. N. Shakespeare, +Mrs. Carne, Mrs. Branch, Mr. and Mrs. Pendray, Mrs. John Kinsman, +Isaac Walsh, and others I cannot remember. I have attended many tea +meetings held in the basement of the old church, presided over by +these pioneer ladies. + + +Transcriber's notes. + +For this digital transcription, illustrations have been repositioned +and page numbers in the table of illustrations have been omitted. + +Minor punctuation errors have been emended without notice. + +Corrections to original printed text: + + Page Original Correction + + 7 Recolections Recollections + 39 Johnston Street Johnson Street + 79 1558. 1858. + 108 Pfizenmeyer Pfitzenmayer + 180 abroad aboard + 256 peacable peaceable + 291 Courtenay Courtney + 292 Courtenay Courtney + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Some Reminiscences of old Victoria, by +Edgar Fawcett + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SOME REMINISCENCES OF OLD VICTORIA *** + +***** This file should be named 26048.txt or 26048.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/6/0/4/26048/ + +Produced by Andrew Sly, Julia Miller and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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