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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A New Voyage Round the World in the Years
+1823, 24, 25, and 26. Vol. 1, by Otto von Kotzebue
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A New Voyage Round the World in the Years 1823, 24, 25, and 26. Vol. 1
+
+Author: Otto von Kotzebue
+
+Release Date: June 4, 2008 [EBook #25693]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NEW VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD VOL 1 ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Julia Miller, Greg Bergquist and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This
+book was produced from scanned images of public domain
+material from the Google Print project.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _S. Freeman, Sc._
+
+RECEPTION OF CAPTAIN KOTZEBUE AT THE ISLAND OF OTDIA]
+
+
+
+
+  A
+
+  NEW VOYAGE
+
+  ROUND
+
+  THE WORLD,
+
+  IN THE YEARS 1823, 24, 25, AND 26.
+
+
+  BY OTTO VON KOTZEBUE,
+
+  POST CAPTAIN IN THE RUSSIAN IMPERIAL NAVY.
+
+
+  IN TWO VOLUMES.
+
+  VOL. I.
+
+
+  LONDON:
+
+  HENRY COLBURN AND RICHARD BENTLEY,
+  NEW BURLINGTON STREET.
+  1830.
+
+
+
+
+  LONDON:
+
+  PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY,
+  Dorset Street, Fleet Street.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+The flattering requisitions of those readers who found amusement in the
+narrative of my former voyage, independently of its scientific details,
+form an incentive to my present publication. All mere nautical minutiæ,
+which might be deemed tedious, with the exception of such as were
+indispensable, have been omitted. Various contingencies have delayed the
+appearance of these Volumes; but I still hope they will not have
+altogether lost the charm of novelty.
+
+With respect to my style, I rely upon the favour formerly shewn me.
+Devoted from my earliest youth to the sea-service, I have had no leisure
+for cultivating the art of authorship.
+
+
+
+
+  TO HIS EXCELLENCY
+  ADMIRAL VON KRUSENSTERN,
+
+  THE FIRST RUSSIAN CIRCUMNAVIGATOR;
+
+  WHOSE NAME WILL BE IMMORTALIZED BY HIS ACTIVE
+  AND BENEFICIAL PATRONAGE OF THE
+  NAUTICAL SCIENCE:
+
+  TO MY PATERNAL FRIEND,
+
+  WHOM, WHILE STILL A BOY, I ACCOMPANIED ON
+  HIS CELEBRATED EXPEDITION, AND UNDER
+  WHOSE AUSPICES I RECEIVED MY EARLY
+  EDUCATION AS A SEAMAN;
+
+  THESE VOLUMES
+  ARE DEDICATED WITH THE MOST AFFECTIONATE
+  RESPECT.
+
+
+
+
+  CONTENTS
+
+  OF
+
+  THE FIRST VOLUME.
+
+                                                              Page.
+
+  INTRODUCTION                                                    1
+
+  VOYAGE TO BRAZIL                                                5
+
+  RIO-JANEIRO                                                    27
+
+  DOUBLING OF CAPE HORN, AND RESIDENCE IN CHILI                  57
+
+  THE DANGEROUS ARCHIPELAGO                                     101
+
+  O TAHAITI                                                     119
+
+  PITCAIRN ISLAND                                               225
+
+  NAVIGATORS' ISLANDS                                           251
+
+  RADACK ISLANDS                                                289
+
+
+
+
+  LIST OF PLATES.
+
+                                                              Page.
+
+  Reception of Captain Kotzebue at the Island of Otdia,
+                                           To face Title of Vol. I.
+
+  Plan of Mattaway Bay and Village                              200
+
+  Chart of the Navigators' Islands                              250
+
+  Chart of the Islands of Radak and Ralik                       288
+
+  Nomahanna, Queen of the Sandwich Islands,
+                                          To face Title of Vol. II.
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+In the month of March of the year 1823, I was appointed by his Imperial
+Majesty Alexander the First, of glorious memory, to the command of a
+ship, at that time unfinished, but named the Predpriatie (the
+Enterprise). She had been at first destined for a voyage purely
+scientific, but circumstances having occurred which rendered it
+necessary to change the object of the expedition, I was ordered to take
+in at Kronstadt a cargo to Kamtschatka, and to sail from the latter
+place to the north-west coast of America, in order to protect the
+Russian American Company from the smuggling carried on there by foreign
+traders. On this station my ship was to remain for one year, and then,
+being relieved by another, to return to Kronstadt. The course to be
+followed, both in going and returning, was left entirely to my own
+discretion.
+
+On the first of May, the ship, whose Russian name, Predpriatie, I shall
+for the future omit, was declared complete. She was the first vessel
+built in Russia under a roof, (a very excellent plan,) was the size of a
+frigate of a middling rank, and, that she might not be unnecessarily
+burdened, was provided with only twenty-four six-pounders.
+
+My crew consisted of Lieutenants Kordinkoff, Korsakoff, Bordoschewitsch,
+and Pfeifer; the Midshipmen Gekimoff, Alexander von Moller, Golowin,
+Count Heiden, Tschekin, Murawieff, Wukotitsch, and Paul von Moller; the
+Mates, Grigorieff, Gekimoff, and Simokoff, eight petty officers, and one
+hundred and fifteen sailors. We were accompanied by Professors
+Eschscholz and Lenz as Naturalists; Messrs. Preus and Hoffman as
+Astronomer and Mineralogist; and Messrs. Victor and von Siegwald as
+Chaplain and Physician; so that, in all, we reckoned one hundred and
+forty-five persons.
+
+We were richly stored with astronomical and other scientific
+instruments: we possessed two pendulum apparatus, and a theodolite made
+expressly for our expedition by the celebrated Reichenbach. This
+valuable instrument was executed with wonderful precision, and was of
+the greatest use in our astronomical observations on shore.
+
+In June the ship arrived at Kronstadt, and on the 14th of July (old
+style, according to which all reckonings will be made in this voyage,)
+she lay in the harbour fully equipped and ready to sail. On that day the
+cannon of the fortress and of the fleet in the roads announced the
+arrival of the Emperor, whom we had the pleasure of receiving on board
+our vessel.
+
+His Majesty, after a close examination of the ship, honoured us by the
+assurance of his imperial satisfaction; the sailors received a sum of
+money, and I and my officers a written expression of thanks.
+
+With the gracious cordiality peculiar to him, the amiable monarch wished
+us a happy voyage, and retired followed by our enthusiastic blessings.
+
+We did not then anticipate that we had seen him for the last time. On
+our return, his lofty spirit had ascended to the regions of bliss: from
+whence he looks down on his beloved brother, rejoicing to be even
+surpassed by him in the virtues of a sovereign.
+
+
+
+
+VOYAGE TO BRAZIL.
+
+
+
+
+VOYAGE TO BRAZIL.
+
+
+We remained in the roads of Kronstadt till the 28th of July, when, after
+a painful parting from a beloved and affectionate wife, the wind proving
+favourable, I gave the order to weigh anchor.
+
+The whole crew was in high spirits, and full of hope: the task of
+weighing anchor and setting sail was executed with alertness and
+rapidity; and as the ship began her course, cutting the foaming billows,
+the men joyfully embraced each other, and with loud huzzas expressed
+their hearty wishes for the success of our undertaking. To me this scene
+was highly gratifying. Such a disposition in a crew towards an
+enterprise from which toils and dangers must be anticipated, afforded a
+satisfactory presumption that their courage and spirits would not fail
+when they should be really called into exercise. With a good ship and a
+cheerful crew the success of a voyage is almost certain. We fired a
+salute of seven guns, in reply to the farewell from the fortress of
+Kronstadt, and, the wind blowing fresh, soon lost sight of its towers.
+
+As far as Gothland all went well, and nothing disturbed the general
+cheerfulness; but here a sudden storm from the west attacked us so
+unexpectedly as scarcely to give time for the necessary precautions.
+Tossed to and fro by the swelling and boisterous waves, I was not, I
+must confess, altogether free from anxiety.
+
+With a new and untried ship, and men somewhat out of practice, a first
+storm is naturally attended by many causes of disquiet not afterwards so
+seriously felt. In the present instance, however, these untoward
+circumstances were rather productive of the ludicrous than the terrific;
+and whatever might be my solicitude as commander, I experienced but
+little sympathy from my officers. The strength and extent of the motion
+to which we were about to be exposed had not been duly estimated, and
+the movable articles in the cabins were generally ill secured. This was
+particularly the case in the state-cabin, occupied by twenty persons:
+not a table or a chair would remain in its place; every thing rolling
+about in its own stupid way, in defiance of all rule and order. The
+frolicsome young officers were delighted with the confusion; and even
+our seasick men of science could not refrain from laughter when a
+well-fed pig, which, disturbed by the inconvenience, had taken refuge on
+the hatchway, ventured from thence to intrude itself among them by a
+spring through the open window, and looked around in pitiable amazement
+on finding that, amidst the general clamour, repose was no more
+attainable in a state-cabin than in its own humble abode. I was
+meanwhile occupied in narrowly observing the vessel that was to bear us
+through so many and long-enduring difficulties. Amidst the conflict of
+the elements, a commander becomes acquainted with his ship, as in the
+storms of life we learn duly to appreciate our friends. I weighed the
+defects of mine against its good qualities, and rejoiced that the
+latter had greatly the preponderance. She was a friend on whom I might
+rely in case of need. Such a conviction is necessary to the captain:
+through it alone can his actions acquire the decision and certainty so
+indispensable in time of danger, and so essential to success. In the
+course of four-and-twenty hours the storm abated; a favourable wind
+again swelled our sails, and we enjoyed it doubly after the little
+troubles we had undergone. At daybreak on the 8th of August we left the
+island of Bornholm, and found ourselves surrounded by a Russian fleet
+cruising under the command of Admiral Crown. This meeting with our
+countrymen was an agreeable surprise to us: they could carry to our
+beloved homes the assurance, that thus far at least our voyage had been
+prosperous. We saluted the Admiral with nine guns, received a similar
+number in return, and continued our course with full sails.
+
+On the 10th of August we anchored opposite the friendly capital of
+Denmark, where we received on board the theodolite, which had been
+prepared for us at Munich by Reichenbach, and sent hither. Before the
+sun appeared above the horizon on the 12th, we were again under sail,
+with a good wind and a tranquil sea. The sail along the Danish coast was
+interesting from its beautiful prospects, and numerous buildings
+illumined by the morning sun.
+
+We passed the Sound the same day, and entered the Categat. Here we were
+visited in the night by another violent storm. The sky, pealing with
+incessant thunder, hung heavy and black above us, and spread a fearful
+darkness over the sea, broken only by tremendous flashes of lightning.
+The electric fluid, in large masses of fire, threatened us momentarily
+with destruction; but thanks be to the strong attractive power of the
+sea, which forms so good a conductor for ships,--without it we had been
+lost! In the North Sea our voyage was tedious, from the continuance of
+contrary winds; and in the English Channel dangerous, from the
+uninterrupted fog. We however reached Portsmouth roads in safety on the
+25th of August.
+
+Since it was my intention to double Cape Horn in the best season, namely
+January or February, it was necessary to lose no time in England. I
+therefore hastened to London, and resisting all the allurements offered
+by the magnificence of the capital, immediately procured my charts,
+chronometers, and astronomical instruments, and returned on board my
+ship on the 2nd of September, to be in waiting for the first fair wind.
+The wind however chose, as it often does, to put our patience to the
+proof. Its perverseness detained us in the roads till the 6th; and
+though a temporary change then enabled us to sail, we had scarcely
+reached Portland point when a strong gale again set in directly in our
+teeth.
+
+The English Channel, on account of its numerous shallows and strong
+irregular currents, is at all times dangerous: vessels overtaken there
+by storms during the night are in imminent peril of wreck, and thus
+every year are great numbers lost.
+
+I myself, on my former voyage in the Rurik, should have infallibly
+suffered this fate, had the day dawned only half an hour later. Warned
+therefore by experience, I resolved not to trust to the chance of the
+night; and fortunately our English pilot, from whom we had not yet
+parted, was of the same opinion.--This man, who had grown grey in his
+employment, and was perfectly acquainted with these waters, advised our
+immediate return to Portsmouth, and that every effort should be made to
+reach it before sunset. I therefore had the ship put about, and setting
+as much sail as the violence of the wind would allow, we fled towards
+our place of refuge, the storm continually increasing. Although we ran
+pretty quick, we had scarcely got half-way back, before it became so
+foggy and dark, that the land, which had hitherto been our guide, was no
+longer discernible. We could not see three hundred fathoms from the
+ship. The change in our pilot's countenance showed that our situation
+had become critical. The little, stout, and hitherto phlegmatic fellow
+became suddenly animated by a new spirit. His black eyes lightened; he
+uttered several times the well-known English oath which Figaro declares
+to be "le fond de la langue," rubbed his bands violently together, and
+at length exclaimed, "Captain! I should like a glass of grog--Devil take
+me if I don't bring you safe into Portsmouth yet!" His wish was of
+course instantly complied with. Strengthened and full of courage, he
+seized the helm, and our destiny depended on his skill.
+
+It was now barely possible to reach Portsmouth with daylight by taking
+the shortest way through the Needles, a narrow strait between the Isle
+of Wight and the mainland, full of shallows, where even in clear weather
+a good pilot is necessary. The sun was already near setting, when an
+anxious cry from the watch announced the neighbourhood of land, and in
+the same instant we all perceived, at about a hundred fathoms' distance,
+a high fog-enveloped rock, against which the breakers raged furiously.
+
+Our pilot recognised it for the western point of the Isle of Wight at
+the entrance of the Needles, and the danger we were in only animated his
+spirits. He seized the helm with both hands, and guiding it with
+admirable dexterity, the ship flew, amidst the storm, through the narrow
+and winding channels to which the shallows confined it, often so close
+upon the impending rocks, that it seemed scarcely possible to pass them
+without a fatal collision.
+
+A small vessel that had sailed with us for some time at this moment
+struck, and was instantly swallowed by the waves without a possibility
+of saving her. This terrible sight, and the consciousness that the next
+moment might involve us in a similar fate, made every one on board gaze
+in silent anxiety on the direction we were taking: even the pilot said
+not a word.
+
+The twilight had nearly given way to total darkness when we reached
+Portsmouth roads; the joy with which we hailed this haven of safety, and
+our mutual congratulations on our preservation, may be easily imagined:
+our pilot now fell back into his former phlegm, and seating himself with
+a glass of grog by the fireside, received our thanks and praises with
+equal indifference.
+
+This equinoctial storm raged itself out during the night, and the first
+rays of the sun again brought us fine weather and a fair wind, which
+enabled us once more to quit the English harbour. In no situation are
+the vicissitudes so striking as those experienced at sea. The wind,
+which had so lately attacked us with irresistible fierceness, was now
+become too gentle, and we were detained nine days in the Channel by
+calms, before we could reach the Atlantic Ocean.
+
+Here a fresh north wind occasioned near our track the appearance called
+a water-spout; which consists of a three-cornered mass of foaming water,
+with the point towards the sea, and the broad upper surface covered with
+a black cloud.--We now held a southerly course, and after encountering
+much rough weather, on the 22nd of September reached the parallel of
+Lisbon, where we enjoyed the warmer temperature, and congratulated
+ourselves on having left behind us the region of storms. We steered
+straight for the island of Teneriffe, where we intended providing
+ourselves with wine. A fresh trade-wind carried us rapidly and smoothly
+forward; the whole crew was in fine health and cheered by one of the
+most beautiful mornings of this climate, when our pleasure in the near
+prospect of a residence on this charming island was most painfully
+interrupted by the accident of a sailor falling overboard. The rapidity
+with which we were driving before the wind frustrated all our efforts to
+save him, and the poor fellow met his death in the waves. Our
+cheerfulness was now perfectly destroyed; and my regret for the accident
+was increased by the fear of the evil impression it might make on the
+minds of the other men.--Sailors are seldom free from superstition, and
+if mine should consider this misfortune as a bad omen, it might become
+such in reality by casting down the spirits so essential in a long and
+perhaps dangerous voyage. A crew tormenting itself with idle fears will
+never lend that ready obedience to a commander which is necessary for
+its own preservation. The messmates of the unfortunate man continued to
+gaze mournfully towards the spot where he had sunk, till the sight of
+land, as we sailed about noon past the small rocky island of Salvages,
+seemed to divert their thoughts from the occurrence; their former
+cheerfulness gradually returned, and my apprehensions subsided.
+
+This evening the island of Teneriffe became perceptible amidst the mist
+and clouds which veiled its heights. During the night we reached the
+high black rocks of lava which form its northern points; and at break of
+day I determined to tack, in order to run into Santa Cruz, the only
+place in the island where ships can lie at anchor.
+
+The night was stormy, and the high land occasioned violent gusts of wind
+from various directions. Towards morning the weather improved, but we
+found that the current had carried us twenty miles to the south-east.[1]
+These strong currents are common here in all seasons, and, to vessels
+not aware of them, may in dark nights produce injurious consequences.
+Having now passed the northern promontory, we steered southward for the
+roads of Santa Cruz. The shore here, consisting of high, steep masses of
+lava, presents a picturesque but desolate and sterile landscape, amidst
+which the eye seeks in vain for some spot capable of producing the rich
+wine of Teneriffe. Upon a point of rock about a thousand feet above the
+level of the sea, we saw a telegraph in full activity, probably
+announcing our arrival. The town next came in sight, and with its
+numerous churches, convents, and handsome houses, rising in an
+amphitheatre up the side of a mountain, would have offered a noble and
+pleasing prospect to eyes accustomed to the monotony of a sea view, but
+that the majestic Peak, that giant among mountains, rearing in the
+background its snow-crowned head 13,278 feet above the level of the sea,
+now stood clear and cloudless before us, enchaining all our faculties,
+the effect of its appearance rendered still more striking by the sudden
+parting of the clouds which had previously concealed it from us. This
+prodigious conical volcano is from its steepness difficult of access,
+and the small crater on the summit is so closely surrounded by a wall of
+lava, that in some places there is scarcely room to stand. He who is
+bold enough to climb it, however, will find himself rewarded with one of
+the finest prospects in the world. Immediately beneath him, stretches
+the entire extent of the Teneriffe, with all its lovely scenery; round
+it the other nineteen Canary Islands; the eye then glances over an
+immense expanse of waters, beyond which may be descried in the distance
+the dark forests of the African coast, and even the yellow stripe which
+marks the verge of the great Desert. With thoughts full of the
+enjoyments which awaited us, we approached the town. We planned parties
+to see the country and climb the Peak; and our scientific associates,
+holding themselves in readiness to land as soon as the boat could be
+lowered, already rejoiced over the new treasures of mineralogy and
+botany of which the island seemed to promise so ample a store: meanwhile
+we had made the usual signal for a pilot; but having in vain waited his
+appearance, I resolved, as the road was not altogether unknown to me, to
+cast anchor without him; when, just as we had made our preparations, a
+ball from the fortress struck the water not far from the ship. At the
+same time we perceived that all was bustle on the walls; the cannons
+were pointed, the matches lighted, and plenty of Spanish balls were
+ready for our reception. Our government being at peace with Spain, this
+hostile conduct was quite unintelligible to us; but as I had no desire
+for a battle, I contented myself with drawing off the ship, and lying to
+beyond the reach of cannon shot, in the hope that a boat would be sent
+to us with some explanation of it. After, however, waiting a
+considerable time in vain, perceiving the continuance of warlike
+preparations on the walls, we were reluctantly obliged to renounce all
+hopes of visiting the island or the Peak, and to continue our voyage to
+Brazil, where we might reckon upon a kinder welcome.
+
+Here, then, was an end to all our promised pleasures. The enrichment of
+our museum, the merry parties and the choice wine all forfeited to a
+simple misunderstanding! Whatever might be their motive, it was an
+inconsiderate action in the Spaniards wantonly to insult the Russian
+flag; and even if they mistook us for enemies, it was silly to be afraid
+of a single ship, considering that the renowned Nelson, with an English
+fleet, had found the fortifications impregnable.
+
+After a few miles' sail we perceived a large three-masted ship
+endeavouring, with the wind against her, to reach the roads of Santa
+Cruz. We steered towards her, in hopes that we might obtain some
+information that should explain the riddle of the treatment we had
+received. But the ship seemed as much afraid of us as the fortress;
+and, as soon as she perceived our intention, made all possible haste to
+avoid us.
+
+It was really laughable enough, but it was also vexatious, that such
+peaceful people as we were should be considered so terrible. I sent a
+bullet after the ship, to induce her to stop; she then hoisted the
+English flag, but never slackened her speed; so that finding we could
+get no satisfaction, we thought it advisable to take advantage of the
+fresh trade-wind, to bear away from Teneriffe as quickly as possible. On
+the following morning we could still see the Peak, a hundred miles off,
+among the clouds; and we called to mind, as we gazed upon it, the
+mysterious accounts of its aborigines, of whom it was said, from the
+resemblance of their teeth to those of grazing animals, that they could
+only live on vegetables. They embalmed corpses in the manner of the
+ancient Egyptians, and preserved them in grottoes in the rocks, where
+they are still to be found. The Spaniards, the first discoverers and
+appropriators of the island, have described in high terms the state of
+civilization, methods of agriculture, and remarkably pure morality of
+these ancient inhabitants, who nevertheless were entirely exterminated
+by the tyranny and cruelty of their conquerors.
+
+The trade-wind and continued fine weather brought us rapidly on our way
+towards Brazil. Dolphins, flying-fish, and the large and beautiful
+gold-fish, called by the Spaniards _bonito_, constantly surrounded the
+ship, and formed by day a relief from the tedium of gazing on the
+unvarying billows, as did during the darkness of the night the
+innumerable phosphorescent animals of the muscle kind, which, studding
+the black ocean with sparks of fire, produced a dazzling and living
+illumination. Our naturalist, Professor Eschscholz, has already
+communicated to the world his microscopical observations upon these
+marine curiosities.
+
+On the first of October we doubled the Cape Verd Islands, without
+however seeing the land, which is almost always lost in mist, and
+steered direct for the Equator. Our progress was now impeded by calms,
+and the heat began to be oppressive; but care and precaution preserved
+the crew in perfect health, an effect which strict cleanliness, order,
+and wholesome diet, will seldom fail to produce, even in long voyages.
+
+At five degrees North latitude, we took advantage of a calm to draw up
+water from a depth of five hundred fathoms, by means of a machine
+invented by the celebrated Russian academician Parrot. We found the
+temperature five degrees by Reaumur, while that of the water on the
+surface reached twenty-five degrees. To us it appeared ice-cold, and we
+felt ourselves much refreshed by washing our heads and faces with it.
+The machine weighed forty pounds, and might contain about a moderate
+pail-full; but the pressure of the column of water over it was such,
+that six sailors with a windlass were hardly able to draw it up. We made
+an attempt to sink it to a thousand fathoms' depth, but the line broke,
+and we lost the machine; fortunately, however, we were provided with a
+second.
+
+While we were still more than a hundred miles from land, a swallow
+alighted on the deck. It is wonderful how far these little animals can
+fly without resting. At first, it seemed weary, but soon recovered, and
+flew gaily about. When far out at sea, cut off from every other society
+than that of our shipmates, any guest from land, even a bird, is
+welcome. Ours soon became a general favourite, and was so tame, that it
+would hop on our hands and take the flies we offered him without any
+symptom of fear. He chose my cabin to sleep in at night; and at sunrise
+flew again upon deck, where he found every one willing to entertain him,
+and catch flies for his subsistence. But our hospitality proved fatal to
+him; he over-ate himself, and died of an indigestion, universally
+lamented.
+
+On the 11th of October we crossed the Equator at twenty-five degrees W.
+longitude, reckoning from Greenwich.[2] Having saluted the Southern
+hemisphere by the firing of guns, our crew proceeded to enact the usual
+ceremonies. A sailor, who took pride in having frequently passed the
+Line, directed the performance with much solemnity and decorum. He
+appeared as Neptune, attired in a manner that was meant to be terribly
+imposing, accompanied by his consort, seated on a gun-carriage instead
+of a shell, drawn by negroes, as substitutes for Tritons. In the
+evening, the sailors represented, amidst general applause, a comedy of
+their own composition. These sports, while they serve to keep up the
+spirits of the men, and make them forget the difficulties they have to
+go through, produce also the most beneficial influence upon their
+health; a cheerful man being much more capable of resisting a fit of
+sickness than a melancholy one. It is the duty of commanders to use
+every innocent means of maintaining this temper in their crews; for in
+long voyages, when they are several months together wandering on an
+element not destined by nature for the residence of man, without
+enjoying even occasionally the recreations of the land, the mind
+naturally tends to melancholy, which of itself lays the foundation of
+many diseases, and sometimes even of insanity. Diversion is often the
+best medicine, and, used as a preservative, seldom fails of its effect.
+
+Below the Equator, we met with a fresh south-east wind, and having also
+fine weather, we soon reached the coast of Brazil.
+
+
+
+
+RIO JANEIRO.
+
+
+
+
+RIO JANEIRO.
+
+
+On the morning of the 1st of November, consequently in the spring of the
+Southern hemisphere, we perceived Cape Frio, and in the evening plainly
+distinguished, by its well-known conical mountain, the entrance to the
+Bay of Rio Janeiro. A dead calm deprived us of the pleasure of running
+into the port that night, so that we were compelled to drop our anchor
+before it; but we found some compensation for our disappointment, in
+contemplating so much of this charming country as was visible from our
+ship. The magnificent scenery of Brazil has often been described, but no
+expression can do justice to its ravishing beauty. Imagination can
+scarcely picture the exquisite variety of form and colouring of the
+luxuriant and gigantic vegetation that thickly clothes the valleys and
+mountains even to the sea-shore. A breeze from the land wafted to us the
+most delicious perfumes; and crowds of beautiful insects, butterflies,
+and birds, such as only the tropics produce, hovered about us. Nature
+seems to have destined these lovely regions for the unmixed enjoyment of
+her creatures; but, alas! hard labour and a tyrant's whip have, to the
+unhappy Negro, transformed this Paradise into a place of torment.
+
+The sight of two slave-ships formed a revolting contrast to the
+enchantment of the prospect: they had that day arrived from Africa, and
+lay near us at anchor. The trade in human flesh, that foul blot on
+civilized nations, of which most of them are already ashamed, yet
+flourishes here in detestable activity, and is carried on, with all the
+brutality of avarice, under the sanction of the laws. The ships employed
+in this abominable traffic are so over-crowded that the slaves have
+scarcely room to move. They are brought up by turns to inhale for a
+while the refreshing breeze, but the deck being only capable of
+accommodating a small portion at once, they are soon returned to the
+confined and pestilential atmosphere below. One third of the human
+cargo, as a necessary consequence, generally perishes on the voyage, and
+the remainder reach their place of destination in a state of miserable
+suffering. The decks of the ships I have just mentioned, were crowded
+with these unfortunate creatures, naked, fettered, and diseased. Even
+mothers with infants at their breasts had not been spared by these
+speculators! What still greater misery might not be concealed beneath
+the decks!
+
+The darkness, which at once closed from our view all that had delighted
+and disgusted us, rendered visible an almost incessant flight of
+rockets, and we heard occasionally, throughout the night, the discharge
+of guns and musketry from the town. These demonstrations of rejoicing
+led to the supposition that some important festival was celebrating, or
+that a great victory had probably been gained; we afterwards learnt,
+however, that they were occasioned only by the arrest of three
+ministers, accused of a conspiracy against the Emperor.
+
+At daybreak the chief pilot came on board. This little fat man, proud
+of his name of Vasco de Gama, which he professed to have inherited in a
+direct line from the celebrated navigator to the East Indies, was in
+many respects a good specimen of his countrymen. He was wholly
+uneducated, as they mostly are; and, next to his ancestry, that in which
+he took the greatest pride was the independence of Brazil. This feeling,
+which is general among all classes, enlists each individual personally
+in support of the existing government, and is its surest guarantee.
+
+Although our pilot had not attained to the renown of his great ancestor,
+I must do him the justice to say that he understood his business, and
+guided us very skilfully through the narrow mouth of the Bay. This small
+entrance, commanded by a fort on a height, is tolerably well secured
+from the approach of an enemy; and might, by stronger batteries, be made
+wholly inaccessible, as the channel is so narrow, that a ship in working
+its way in must always be within half-shot distance. We anchored near
+the town, among numerous vessels of various nations, and set foot once
+more on terra-firma, after being fifty-two days at sea since leaving
+England.
+
+Beautiful as this country always appears to an European eye, it has
+perhaps no scene so strikingly splendid and picturesque as that which
+presents itself within this Bay. The rich and novel peculiarity of the
+landscape is contrasted with the handsome buildings of the town, rising
+amphitheatrically round the harbour; and these again derive a curious
+effect from the tall and slender palm-trees, which, thickly interspersed
+among them, throw their strongly defined and waving shadows upon the
+white surface of the contiguous houses; and the whole is crowned by the
+numerous convents which are seen above the town, in the distance,
+clinging like swallows'-nests, to the precipitous sides of the
+mountains.
+
+We had hardly reefed our sails, when the Russian Vice-Consul, Von
+Kielchen, and an officer of the Brazilian government, came on board to
+congratulate us on our arrival. The latter acquainted me with the order
+of his Government, that every ship of war coming in should salute the
+fortress with one-and-twenty guns; and in order to remove all doubt that
+the compliment was designed for the Brazilian flag, he had brought one
+which, during the salute, he requested us to hoist at the fore-mast.
+
+New and unprecedented as this order was, from a state not yet
+acknowledged by our government, I determined, rather than risk any
+disagreement, to comply with it; and having fired the one-and-twenty
+guns, received from the fortress a similar number in return. Being very
+anxious not to lose the favourable season for doubling Cape Horn, I
+urged the Vice-Consul to expedite as much as possible the delivery of
+provisions and other necessaries to the ship; for this purpose, however,
+a delay of four weeks was required, and this time I determined to employ
+in astronomical observations. M. Von Kielchen procured me for this
+purpose a convenient country-house, situated on the romantic little bay
+of Botafogo, of which I took possession on the following day,
+accompanied by our astronomer, M. Preus; leaving the care of the ship to
+my officers.
+
+In the supposition that the history of Brazil may not be familiar to
+every reader, male and female,--for I hope to have many of the
+latter,--I will preface the narration of my residence here with the
+following notices.
+
+This great empire in South America, called Brazil, from a wood which
+grows there in great abundance, resembling in colour a red-hot coal, (in
+the Portuguese "_Brasa_,") is one of the richest and most fertile
+countries in the world. It was accidentally discovered in the year 1500,
+by a Portuguese named Cabral, who with a fleet bound for the East
+Indies, was thrown on these shores.
+
+The riches of the country being at first unknown, it was used as a place
+of banishment for criminals; but subsequently, when the convicts began
+to cultivate the sugar-cane, and the gold and diamond mines were
+discovered, Brazil acquired a higher value in the eyes of the Portuguese
+government.
+
+A Viceroy was therefore sent out, with the strongest injunctions to
+close the Brazilian ports against all foreign powers, in order to
+preserve to Portugal the exclusive trade in the diamonds and other
+precious stones with which it was now found that the country abounded.
+For a long time, this beautiful land, rich in all the gifts of nature,
+languished under the rule of Portuguese Viceroys, with a
+thinly-scattered population, poor, oppressed, and destitute of all
+mental culture. At length, the year 1807 opened to it a brighter
+prospect. Napoleon's ambitious views extending even to Portugal, forced
+the Royal Family to take refuge in the colonies. They were followed by
+fourteen thousand soldiers, and about twelve thousand other adherents.
+The presence of a court and government in the capital, Rio Janeiro, had
+the most beneficial influence on all the interests of the country. The
+ports were opened to all European ships, and commerce, wealth, and
+civilization advanced rapidly.
+
+Napoleon's victories having found a final termination, in his banishment
+to St. Helena, the King of Portugal returned, in 1821, to his European
+dominions, leaving the Regency of Brazil to his son, the Crown Prince,
+Pedro, already married to an Austrian princess.
+
+But the example of the newly-established republics of America had a
+powerful effect on the minds of the people; the King's departure was a
+signal for the breaking out of revolutionary disturbances, which, though
+the Crown Prince could not appease, he was, nevertheless, by means of a
+strong party he had gained over, enabled to direct. In the year 1822, he
+declared Brazil independent of the mother-country,--promised the people
+a Constitution,--and was at last proclaimed Emperor, by the title of
+Pedro the First. From the day when the nation tendered its allegiance,
+the Emperor and all patriots have worn on the left arm a green cockade
+inscribed with the words, "Independence or Death." At the coronation,
+the order of the Southern Cross was founded, and the new national flag
+hoisted: it is green, with a yellow square in the middle, on which is
+represented the Earth, surrounded by thirteen stars (the number of the
+provinces), and leaves of coffee and tobacco, as the produce of the
+country.
+
+The government, at the time of our residence in Brazil, was nothing less
+than constitutional. This is sufficiently proved by the tumultuary
+arrest of the above-mentioned three Ministers, by the arbitrary
+dispersion of the Deputies from the provinces, called together
+expressly to form a Constitutional Assembly, and by the expression of
+the Emperor, that he required unconditional submission, even if he
+should choose, like Charles the Twelfth, to send his boot to them as his
+representative. It is possible that the Emperor has been in some measure
+forced to these violent proceedings by the contentions of the various
+parties, each of which seeks its own interest without concerning itself
+about the general welfare. His personal character is much praised.
+
+A captain of one of the Russian-American Company's ships, who had been
+in Rio Janeiro, related to me the following anecdote of his benevolence.
+Two sailors belonging to his crew had been ashore, and having got drunk,
+were found lying senseless on the road to Corcovado. The Emperor and
+Empress happening to ride that way, attended only by a few servants, saw
+them, and supposed them to be sick. The Emperor immediately dismounted,
+rubbed their temples with his own hand, and endeavoured to restore them
+to their senses, but in vain. He then sent for his own surgeon, and
+dispatched them under his care to the hospital, from whence on the
+following morning, having slept off their intoxication, they were
+dismissed as cured.--Another, and a different anecdote, I heard from a
+painter from Vienna, who was residing in Rio Janeiro. The Emperor,
+wishing to have a whole-length portrait of himself, sent for the painter
+to place his easel in a room in the palace, and commenced sitting. The
+first outline was scarcely made, when an officer, whose business it was
+to report the arrival of ships, entered with the list. The names of the
+ships and captains, of various nations and languages with which the
+officer was unacquainted, puzzled him, and he read so stammeringly, and
+sometimes almost unintelligibly, that the Emperor, enraged at his
+ignorance, seized a stick, and the officer, only by a rapid flight round
+the easel, in which he was at first pursued by the monarch, escaped the
+intended chastisement. We shall be less surprised at this conduct, if we
+consider the point of civilization to which the country had attained
+when this Prince first seized the helm. May he succeed in elevating it
+to what his government may make it,--the happiest, as well as the
+loveliest and most fruitful empire in the world!
+
+The Brazilian fleet, then commanded by the celebrated Lord Cochrane,
+consisted of one ship of the line, two frigates, three brigs, and some
+smaller vessels. Inconsiderable as was this force, it was in good order,
+and under the direction of its skilful and heroic commander, had done
+wonders. Lord Cochrane had recently, with his single ship of the line
+and one frigate only, attacked and defeated a Portuguese squadron of two
+ships of the line and four frigates, pursued them to the port of Lisbon,
+and made prize of forty merchant vessels they were convoying. For this
+exploit, he received from the Emperor the appointment of Grand Admiral,
+and the title of Marquis of Marenham, after one of the provinces. He had
+before served the republic of Chili; and, it is said, in the midst of
+his warlike ardour, he had not forgotten the care of his private
+finances.
+
+This was his first year in the Brazilian service. I was curious to see
+so celebrated a man, and soon found an opportunity of forming an
+acquaintance with him, which led to a frequent intercourse. His
+external deportment is repulsive rather than attractive; he is somewhat
+taciturn; and it is difficult, in ordinary conversation, to discover the
+intelligence and information which he really possesses. He is turned of
+fifty years of age, tall and thin: his attitude is stooping, his hair
+red, his features strongly marked, and the expression of his countenance
+serious: his sparkling, lively eyes, concealed by overhanging eyebrows,
+are generally fixed on the ground, and seldom even raised to the person
+he is addressing. His lady forms a striking contrast with him: she is
+young, handsome, lively in conversation, extremely amiable, and so
+devotedly attached to him, that she exposes her life to the greatest
+danger rather than leave his side, and has remained in his ship during
+all his battles in the South American service.
+
+Cochrane frequently expressed to me a wish to enter the Russian service,
+in order to assist the Greeks, and fight the Turks. This object he has
+since attained by other means. War appears to be an indispensable
+necessity to his nature; and a dangerous struggle in a just cause is
+his highest enjoyment. How this enthusiasm can be united to the great
+love of money of which he is accused, it is not easy to imagine.
+
+My short residence in Brazil passed rapidly and agreeably in my
+necessary occupations, and the enjoyment of the charming environs of my
+country-house. The effect which so total a change of climate and scenery
+produces on European spirits, even when not experienced for the first
+time, is really astonishing. The eye can fix on no one object which is
+not directly the reverse of any thing to which it has been accustomed.
+The birds, insects, trees, flowers, all wear a foreign aspect, even to
+the blades of grass. By its strange forms and colourings, but especially
+by its overflowing abundance, all nature here demands attention.
+Throughout the day, myriads of the most beautiful butterflies, beetles,
+and humming-birds, display their various colours in the sun, which has
+scarcely set, before innumerable swarms of fire-flies illuminate the
+scene. I had seldom time for excursions; therefore, as it usually
+happens to sailors, I can say little of the interior.
+
+Botafogo, where, on account of the salubrity of the air, the richest
+and most distinguished of the inhabitants of Rio Janeiro have fixed
+their country-houses, is the most attractive spot in the immediate
+environs of the capital. Among the mountains which form the background
+of the view from the Bay, is one solid rock, very remarkable from the
+resemblance of its figure to an enormous church-steeple; it rises,
+according to a geometrical admeasurement of our scientific companion
+Lenz, to the height of fifteen hundred and eighty feet above the level
+of the sea. With infinite pains, a road has been conducted to the
+summit, where the space is so confined that a few persons only can be
+accommodated at the same time, but from whence the prospect is
+indescribably magnificent: it is called Corcovado, and is a favourite
+ride with the Emperor.
+
+From Botafogo the road to the capital is studded on both sides with
+pretty villas. The town derives its name, Rio Janeiro, or January river,
+from an error on the first discovery of the bay, which, owing to the
+narrowness of its mouth, was mistaken for a river, and named after the
+current month. Its interior by no means corresponds with its handsome
+appearance from the bay, the streets being narrow and dirty, and the
+buildings very tasteless. Clumsy churches and convents are found in
+plenty, but there is little worthy the attention of the traveller,
+except the Museum, which has a rich collection of rare natural
+curiosities, and valuable minerals. The extent of the town is
+considerable, and it contains about two hundred and fifty thousand
+inhabitants, of which however two-thirds are negroes, and the rest
+principally mulattoes and other people of colour. A white face is seldom
+to be seen in the streets; but the blacks are so numerous, that one
+might fancy oneself in Africa.
+
+Among these are a few free men; but the greater part are slaves degraded
+to beasts of burden. The immense weights they carry are usually fastened
+on a plank, each end of which is borne by a negro, keeping time to his
+steps by a monotonous and melancholy song in his native language, and
+goaded by the whip to renewed efforts, when the failing of his voice
+indicates almost utter exhaustion. They often carry heavily laden
+baskets on their heads; and even women are not exempt from this labour.
+
+On Sundays and holidays they also sing in time to their steps, as they
+stroll about, but the tune has a more lively character; and they
+sometimes accompany their voices on a little instrument composed of a
+few steel springs. They understand no other language than that of their
+distant country, and therefore, though the ceremony of baptism is never
+omitted, they receive no instruction in the doctrines of Christianity;
+thus, while an appearance of anxiety concerning the salvation of their
+souls is maintained, they continue sunk in the state of misery and
+darkness which hopeless bodily suffering is so calculated to produce.
+The few free blacks are either manumitted slaves or their descendants:
+they are mostly mechanics engaged in trade. The mulattoes are generally
+of illegitimate birth, but are sometimes the offspring of marriages
+between blacks and the lowest class of whites. From their connexion with
+blacks or whites spring all the various gradations of colour met with
+among the inhabitants of Brazil. The mulattoes and free negroes form the
+middle classes; the few whites found among them being the worst of
+characters, ignorant and vicious to the last degree; their repulsive
+exterior is worthy of their abandoned lives: they are usually _retail_
+slave dealers, and keep shops where these miserable beings are exposed
+to view, and may be examined and purchased like any other ware. About
+twenty thousand negroes are annually brought to Brazil; the average
+price of a female is three hundred, and of a man six hundred piastres.
+
+The principal food of the negroes is a sort of thick paste called
+Manioc, which is prepared from Tapioca by kneading in hot water; to an
+European palate it has a disagreeable flavour, but may be nutritious, as
+the slaves mostly look well-fed; I doubt, however, its being wholesome
+without a mixture of other food, and I even think it possible that it
+may be the original cause of a terrible disease to which the negroes
+alone are subject, and of which they know nothing in their own country.
+Large tumours appear on their faces and legs, which do not break, but
+increase in size till in some of the sufferers the human form can
+scarcely be recognised. A convent situated on a little island, called
+Dos Fradres, in the bay of Rio Janeiro, and not far from the town,
+contains a hospital, under the superintendence of the government, for
+sick negro slaves. I have not been able to learn whether this disease
+has been successfully treated here. The father of the Emperor, while he
+remained in Rio Janeiro, often visited the convent; and a room is shown
+where he used to take refuge when it thundered, as he was excessively
+fearful in a storm, and, from some unknown cause, esteemed this chamber
+peculiarly safe.
+
+On the 19th of November, the celebration of the anniversary of the
+coronation, and the establishment of the Order of the Southern Cross,
+attracted me to the capital.
+
+It was scarcely daybreak when the thunder of the cannon from all the
+batteries, and from the ships in the roads, recalled the remembrance of
+this happy event, which had taken place only the preceding year. The
+streets were filled with people; soldiers in their dress-regimentals
+hastened to their various places of rendezvous; and the negroes,
+released from labour, formed a part of the cheerful throng. At eleven
+o'clock, the Emperor and Empress, in a magnificent carriage drawn by
+eight horses, and escorted by a troop of guards in handsome uniforms,
+arrived at the principal church. A number of carriages, containing the
+suite of the Imperial pair, followed, all at a slow pace, that the
+people might have more time to enjoy the spectacle.
+
+At some distance from the door, the Emperor and Empress alighted, and
+entered the church in procession, surrounded by the Knights of the
+Southern Cross; they were met by the Bishop and the whole body of the
+clergy, and conducted with great pomp to a throne erected at the right
+side of the altar, which the Emperor ascended, while his consort took
+her place in a pew on the left. After the service, performed by a good
+choir to excellent music, the Bishop came forward and delivered a very
+long discourse, descriptive of the various virtues of the Emperor,
+comparing him to Peter the Great of Russia, and pointing out how he
+ought to administer the government for the good of his subjects. The
+comparison he was pleased to institute between the monarch and his
+illustrious namesake is only so far just, as, in the uncultivated state
+of the two nations, both have had similar materials to work upon.
+Whether Don Pedro, with much greater means, will effect as much as our
+immortal Peter, time will show. One of the hopes of Brazil is already
+extinguished by the death of the Empress, who in a short time had done
+much for science and the arts. When the sermon was over, their Majesties
+returned to the Palace, amidst an uninterrupted firing of cannon. They
+then received the congratulations of the court, and at four o'clock the
+Emperor reviewed in the great market-place, where a temple was erected
+for the imperial family, a body of four thousand five hundred troops,
+formed in a half circle round the temple. In their venerable commander,
+Don José de Currado, a field-marshal, of eighty years of age, I joyfully
+recognised the former governor of St. Katharine's, who, on my first
+voyage round the world, under the command of the present Admiral
+Krusenstein, received me so hospitably. The observations I had an
+opportunity of making upon the soldiers, before the arrival of the
+Emperor, were not altogether unfavourable; though, it must be confessed,
+the good people seemed to have no very high notion of discipline;
+smoking, and all kinds of irregularities, being permitted even in the
+front ranks. Their uniform was handsome and suitable; that of the
+musicians chiefly attracted my attention. Every colonel of a regiment
+has the right of dressing his band according to his fancy; and as tastes
+are very various, so of course are these costumes, though the Asiatic
+predominates; some being attired as Turks, others as Indians. In one
+regiment, indeed, a quantity of coloured feathers, worn on the head and
+round the body, formed the only covering.
+
+As soon as the Emperor and Empress, both on horseback and surrounded by
+a splendid court, were seen in the distance, the cannon sent forth its
+loudest roar, the soldiers threw away their cigars, the multitude waved
+their hats, the ladies in the balconies their white
+pocket-handkerchiefs, and all shouted "Viva l'Emperador." The cortège
+approached slowly; the Emperor, from the superior richness of his
+uniform, glittering amidst the splendid throng, like Syrius in the
+starry sky. His colossal figure seemed literally covered with gold lace;
+his breast sparkled with diamonds, and his strong features were shaded
+by a hat richly decorated with jewels. The Express was more tastefully
+attired in a simple black riding-dress, embroidered with gold. When she
+had taken her place in the temple, his Majesty assumed the command of
+the troops and paraded them before her. As soon as his powerful voice
+was heard, the thunder of the cannon again burst forth; the Turks,
+Indians, and above-mentioned Popinjays, blew their trumpets, while the
+shout from the people of "Viva l'Emperador" was loudest amidst the
+uproar. The columns of the military having several times defiled before
+the Empress, the parade terminated, and the Imperial family and their
+court repaired to the theatre. I had been seated in my box a few minutes
+before they entered the building, which was suffocatingly full, and I
+was surprised to find it as good in its architecture and arrangements as
+the generality of European theatres. The boxes were occupied by whites
+only, and many female faces were there to be seen as fair as those of
+Northern Europe; the tender red of the youthful cheek, the bright, black
+eye and jetty hair increased the attraction of these brilliant
+complexions; but many of the ladies have brown, and even very light
+hair. Their dress was tastefully arranged in the Parisian fashion: the
+art of the toilet appears indeed to be the only one they study, as their
+education does not always proceed so far as reading and writing,
+although they are not deficient in natural capabilities; their
+conversation is often as graceful and piquant as that of European
+ladies. Nor is general information much more extended among the
+gentlemen, as the following anecdote will testify. When, in 1817, the
+Russian frigate Kamschatka anchored in the Port of Rio Janeiro, it was
+visited by many Brazilians of rank, and amongst others by an officer who
+expressed much surprise at finding a crucifix in the cabin. He knew,
+indeed, that the Russians professed the Greek religion, but was wholly
+ignorant that this church formed any part of the Christian community.
+
+It is the custom here to pay visits in the theatre, which are indeed
+more highly prized than those made at their houses, as the attention is
+more publicly manifested. On these occasions the animated intercourse
+between the young people of the different sexes is frequently
+accompanied by glances sufficiently expressive to betray its object.
+
+The pit presented a very singular appearance, from its assemblage of
+various complexions, including every possible shade from black to white,
+although the darker tints had greatly the preponderance. Nor was the
+distinction of manners among the different portions of the audience less
+striking. No theatre in Europe can boast of more decorum and politeness
+than prevails here in the boxes; but the noisy and coarse vulgarity of
+the pit would not be tolerated in a more refined nation. All eyes were
+eagerly directed towards the Imperial box, when its curtain, which
+before had been close drawn, was thrown open; their Majesties then
+appeared standing in the front, the back of the box being filled by
+Knights of the Southern Cross. Hats and handkerchiefs were now again
+waved, and on every side resounded "Viva l'Emperador, l'Emperadriza, la
+Monarchia!" This enthusiasm having been rewarded by gracious
+acknowledgments, the drop curtain rose, and an actress came forward to
+recite a prologue in praise of the Emperor. Then followed a piece of
+which I understood very little; and the whole was concluded by a ballet,
+greatly superior to my expectations. During the performance, the Emperor
+gave audience in his box to many of his subjects, the interview always
+beginning with the homage of kissing hands on the bended knee. As soon
+as the curtain rose, the company in the pit became tolerably quiet, and
+much more attentive than those in the boxes; the latter appearing to
+take more interest in conversation with their acquaintances than in the
+performance. I paid my respects to Lord Cochrane and his amiable wife in
+their box, and remained with them till the conclusion of the piece.
+
+He spoke much of Chili, and wore even on this day of ceremony, a Chilian
+uniform and a blue scarf, its honorary decoration. This surprised me the
+more, as he seemed dissatisfied with the Chilian government. His
+explanation was, that the Emperor had not yet decided what his Brazilian
+uniform should be, and consequently, that he was still obliged to wear
+that of Chili. The lady preferred Chili to Brazil, and believed that
+the heat of this climate did not agree with her health.
+
+On the 27th of November, all our stores being laid in, bidding a cordial
+farewell to Brazil, I returned to my ship, intending to continue our
+voyage on the following day. Accordingly at five o'clock on the morning
+of the 28th we spread our sails, and the ebb-tide and a light breeze
+from the North, bore us slowly from this lovely coast. The wind soon
+slackened; and we should have been greatly embarrassed but for a number
+of boats sent by the English squadron, then lying in the roads, to tow
+us out to sea, by which seasonable assistance we were enabled to clear
+the bay before evening. The heat of Brazil had not injured the health of
+our crew. Fresh provisions, much fruit and vegetables, good lemonade
+instead of the ordinary drink, and a sea bath every evening, were the
+means I employed for the prevention of sickness. The men were in the
+best spirits for encountering the storms of the Southern ocean; and I
+destined the port of Conception, on the coast of Chili, for a
+resting-place, after having surmounted the difficulties of doubling Cape
+Horn.
+
+The result of our repeated observations on land, are as follows:--
+
+  Latitude of Botafogo                           21° 56' 5" South.
+  Medium Longitude from various observations     43° 7' 32" West.
+
+Every longitude which is given in the course of this voyage is reckoned
+by the distance from Greenwich, going from West to East. The variation
+of the needle amounted to 3° East, its inclination to 9° 28'. As the
+longitude of Cape Frio has been variously laid down, I took much pains
+to ascertain it exactly. By a very good chronometer, I found the
+difference between Cape Frio and Botafogo 1° 6' 20"; so that the true
+longitude of Cape Frio from Greenwich must be 42° 1' 12".
+
+
+
+
+DOUBLING OF CAPE HORN,
+AND
+RESIDENCE IN CHILI.
+
+
+
+
+DOUBLING OF CAPE HORN, AND RESIDENCE IN CHILI.
+
+
+We continued our course to the South very agreeably, with fine weather
+and a favourable wind. Under thirty-nine degrees of latitude, however,
+we could already perceive how much further the South pole extends its
+unfavourable influence than the North. The sky was no longer clear, the
+wind became changeable and violent, the air much colder, and the
+frequent sight of the whale, and of a giant bird called the albatross,
+warned us that we were approaching the stormy region. We afterwards
+shot one of these birds on the coast of Chili, which measured twelve
+feet across the wings.
+
+In the parallel of Rio de la Plata, although two hundred miles from
+land, we were daily carried by the current thirty-nine miles out of our
+course towards the south-west; so great is the influence of this mighty
+river at the distance of two hundred and forty miles from its mouth.
+
+On the 15th of December, in the beginning of the southern summer, under
+forty-seven degrees of latitude, where, if the temperature of both
+hemispheres were equal, the climate would have been that of the South of
+Germany, or the middle of France, we were overtaken by a violent storm,
+accompanied by hail and snow. It began from the south-west, but the
+wind, in the course of twenty-four hours, veered the whole round of the
+compass, and raised such high and furious billows, that our escape from
+destruction afforded ample proof, notwithstanding a considerable leak,
+of our ship's strength, and her architect's skill. From this time we
+continued our voyage with a fair wind and serene weather.
+
+Between Falkland Islands and the west of Patagonia, we saw great
+numbers of storm-birds, betokening the neighbourhood of land, and we
+sailed within speaking distance of a North-American whaler. The dirty
+ship, and the crew smeared with blubber, had indeed a disgusting
+appearance; but if we consider to what toils and dangers these poor men
+are exposed during their voyages, which commonly last several years, in
+the most tempestuous seas, sometimes sailing about for months without
+seeing a fish, and suffering in the meanwhile from the want of wholesome
+food, yet pursuing their object with invincible perseverance, it is
+impossible to deny them compassion, and even commendation. The North
+Americans display an industry and perseverance in their commercial
+undertakings, which is not exceeded even by the English: they are to be
+met with upon every sea, and in the most unfrequented regions,
+disdaining nothing, however trivial, from which they can derive profit.
+On the north-west coast of America, they barter with the savages all
+kinds of European trifles for the beautiful skin of the sea-otter, which
+they sell for a high price in China. Many of their vessels take in
+cargoes of sandal-wood in the South-Sea Islands, for which they also
+find a good market in China, where it is in great estimation; others
+pursue the spermaceti whale in the neighbourhood of Cape Horn, and carry
+on an important traffic in this article.
+
+On the morning of the 23rd of December, we saw in the distance the
+snow-covered points of the mountains in the dreaded Staten-land. A fresh
+breeze carried us so near to this inhospitable and desolate island, that
+we could plainly distinguish the objects on it, even without a
+telescope. What a contrast to the beauty of Brazil! There nature seems
+inexhaustible in her splendour and variety; here she has sparingly
+allowed a thin clothing of moss to the lofty masses of black rock.
+Seldom do the sun's rays lighten this or the neighbouring island of
+Terra del Fuego. Vegetation is so blasted by the perpetual cold and
+fogs, that a few miserable stunted trees can scarcely find subsistence
+at the foot of the mountains. The sea-birds avoid these barren shores;
+the very insects disdain them; the dog, the faithful companion of man,
+and man himself, the inhabitant of every climate under heaven, can
+alone exist in this; but the warmth of the sun is essential to the
+development of his faculties. Here he is a mere animal, and of
+disgusting appearance; small, ill-shaped, with dirty copper-coloured
+skin, black bristly hair, and devoid of beard. He inhabits a miserable
+hut made of boughs covered with dried rushes, and appeases his hunger on
+the raw and often half-decayed flesh of the sea animals, whose skins
+furnish him with a scanty covering: this is the utmost extent to which
+his invention has yet led him, in providing defences against the
+roughness of the climate; and the dreariness of his existence is still
+unenlivened by any notion of amusement. Yet is this benumbing country
+situated in the same degree of southern latitude in which in the
+northern lies my beloved Esthonia, where every comfort of civilization
+may be enjoyed--the land of my birth, where in the charming form of
+woman is "garnered up" the happiness of my life, and where I hope to
+rest at last in the haven of friendship and love, till I set out on that
+final voyage from which I shall never return.
+
+We had so little wind, that we were only able on the following morning
+to double the eastern promontory of Staten-land, Cape John; which our
+chronometers fixed, almost precisely, in the same longitude assigned to
+it by Captain Cook. I now steered a westerly course along the south
+coast of Staten-land, contrary to the usual practice of navigators, who
+run from hence to 60 degrees South, expecting in that latitude to meet
+with fewer impediments to their passage into the South Sea. Experience
+has taught me, moreover, that Cape Horn may be doubled with least loss
+of time by keeping near land, where in the summer months good east winds
+will often blow, when westerly winds prevail at a distance of forty
+miles to sea-ward. When we had passed Staten-land, the Terra del Fuego
+lay in equally fearful form to our right. We continued our course with a
+moderate north-east wind, and remarked a strong current to the north.
+
+On the noon of the following day we perceived the terrible Cape Horn at
+a distance of twenty-five miles, lying in the form of a high, round
+mountain before us. A calm, of which we took advantage to shoot some
+albatrosses, delayed us for a few hours; but on Christmas-day we doubled
+the Cape without the slightest difficulty. In the evening, after sailing
+close alongside the little rocky island of Diego Ramirez, inhabited by
+immense numbers of sea-birds, we found ourselves in the South Sea. A
+favourable east wind swelling our sails, on the 28th of December, we did
+our best to clear the island of Terra del Fuego, before a west wind
+should impede our progress; but in this we were disappointed, for a
+sudden storm drove us out of our course to latitude 59-1/2°. Here, for a
+New Year's gift, we fell in with a fresh south wind, which helped us
+forward at the rate of eleven miles an hour, and continued to swell our
+sails, till on the 5th we lost sight of the Terra del Fuego, and
+joyfully continued our voyage northwards. At Cape Horn, Reaumur's
+thermometer stood at four degrees; a temperature rendered very
+disagreeable by our having so recently suffered from oppressive heat. We
+now hailed with renewed enjoyment the daily increasing warmth.
+
+My sailors had heard much of the dreadful storms which raged at all
+seasons round Cape Horn, and destroyed so many ships. One of them had
+recently read to his messmates the history of Lord Anson's unfortunate
+voyage: they were therefore not quite free from apprehension on
+approaching this dangerous point, and were agreeably surprised at
+passing it so quietly. In their joy they hit on the proud, poetical
+idea, that the very elements themselves respected the Russian flag. This
+bold imagination took such possession of their minds, that, in the
+elevation of their spirits, they resolved to represent it in a
+pantomime, to which I willingly assented, as my own cheerfulness greatly
+depended on theirs. Accordingly, a throne was erected on the capstan,
+adorned with coloured flags and streamers, which we were to take for the
+extreme point of Cape Horn, upon which, shrouded in red drapery, with
+all becoming dignity and seriousness of aspect, sat the hitherto unknown
+God Horn, (begotten and born of the sailors' fancy,) the tremendous
+ruler of the winds and waves in this tempestuous ocean. In his strong
+right hand he held a large three-pronged oven fork, and in his left a
+telescope, with which he surveyed the watery expanse seeking for a
+sacrifice. A grey beard smeared with tar, hung down to his knees, and,
+probably as a symbol of his marine dominion, instead of a crown, his
+head was decorated by a leathern pail. Before him lay a large open book,
+and a pen was stuck behind his ear, to write down the names of the ships
+which sailed by. The exact purpose of this I could not understand, but
+the effect was equally good. Upon the lower step of the throne stood two
+full-cheeked sailors, very much painted, holding bellows, to represent
+the Winds ready to produce a raging whirlwind at the nod of their ruler.
+The God seemed in a very ill humour, till at the appearance of a
+three-masted ship, made of some planks nailed together, his visage
+suddenly cleared. The crew of the vessel, which was in full sail,
+pointed to the Cape, and appeared to rejoice in the expectation of
+doubling it safely. Then did the God Horn give the ominous nod, and the
+bellows began to work. The ship took in her sails with all possible
+expedition, but was nevertheless terribly tossed about. The crew, in
+danger of perishing, offered their supplications to the God, who at
+length relenting, commanded the winds to subside, and suffered the
+vessel to pass on in safety. Soon after another vessel appeared bearing
+our flag, which the God no sooner perceived than he descended from his
+throne, took the pail respectfully from his head, and made a profound
+obeisance, in token of homage to the Russian flag. The Æolian attendants
+blew the gentlest gales, and we soon vanished with out-stretched sails
+behind our own main-mast. The piece concluded amidst universal applause,
+and a double portion of grog served to increase the general
+cheerfulness.
+
+Thus opened the year 1824.--The crew believed that, with the passage of
+Cape Horn, the greatest danger of the voyage was over, and were full of
+life and spirits. On the 15th of January we saw far off the Island of
+St. Maria, and on the following morning knew, by the two high mountains
+called Biobio's Bosom, from the river which flows between them, that we
+were approaching the Bay of Conception. As soon as these hills are
+clearly distinguished, the entrance to the bay is easily found.--In
+fine weather they are excellent guides.
+
+A brisk south wind carried us swiftly towards the land, which, far from
+charming the eye with the picturesque beauty of Brazil, presents an
+almost undeviating straight line.--The round sides of the mountains are
+but sparingly covered with vegetation, and in this dry season had a
+sterile appearance. At noon, having doubled the Island of Quiquirino, at
+the the mouth of the bay, we found ourselves in a smooth and spacious
+sheet of water, surrounded by crowds of sea-dogs, dolphins, whales, and
+water-birds, which abound on the coasts of Chili. This part of the
+country is but thinly inhabited, and a few poor and scattered huts only
+are visible. During the centuries that it has been in possession of the
+Spaniards, it has advanced as little as their other colonies in
+cultivation or civilization.
+
+The calm made it impossible on that day to reach the village of
+Talcaguana, where ships usually lie at anchor, and we were consequently
+obliged in the evening to lay-to at some miles distance.
+
+At twelve o'clock at night, the watch on deck observed a large boat
+approaching with caution to within reach of musket-shot. This slinking
+about in the dark had a suspicious appearance, especially as the colony
+having revolted against the mother-country, was in a state of war. Want
+of light prevented our learning the strength of the boat's crew, or what
+arms it carried; but we prepared to repel an attack, in which, however,
+it was manifest the advantage would be greatly on our side. I ordered
+the watch to hail the boat, which in return addressed us through a
+trumpet, first in Spanish, and immediately afterwards in English,
+inquiring to what nation we belonged, and whence, and for what purpose,
+we were come. Upon our reply that we were Russians and good friends, the
+boat came nearer, and an officer, well armed with sword and pistols,
+came on deck, but was so alarmed on perceiving our state of warlike
+preparations, that he did not utter a word till he had satisfied himself
+that we were really Russians, and had no hostile intentions.
+
+The cause of his fear lay in the report of a Spanish frigate having
+been seen cruising on the coast. This officer was an Englishman, in the
+service of the republic of Chili, and lieutenant of a corvette lying
+before Talcaguana. He left us with a request, (which was immediately
+complied with,) that we would hoist a lantern at our fore-mast, as a
+signal of peace to the inhabitants of Talcaguana, among whom our
+appearance had spread the greatest anxiety.
+
+Early in the morning I sent an officer ashore to notify our arrival in
+proper form to the commandant of the place, and to request his
+permission to furnish ourselves with water and fresh provisions, which
+was granted in the most courteous manner possible.
+
+Sure of a favourable reception, I immediately weighed anchor, and,
+having a good wind, dropped it again at noon, at the distance of a
+musket-shot from Talcaguana, in a depth of five and a half fathoms,
+after having been fifty days on the voyage from Rio Janeiro, during the
+whole of which time the crew had enjoyed the most perfect health.
+Besides our own ship, and the above-mentioned corvette, commanded by
+Captain Simson, three merchant ships under Chilian, and three whalers
+under English colours also lay here. In the afternoon I went ashore
+myself, and paid the Commandant a visit; I was received in the most
+friendly manner, but with a good deal of Spanish etiquette, by an old
+man, who was evidently a zealous republican. He told me, that the first
+President of the Republic, Freire, whose authority, he gave me to
+understand, would be very instrumental in furthering his efforts to
+assist us, was at that moment in the town of Conception. Thither,
+therefore, I determined to proceed, hoping to see the President, and
+procure from him a written order for our accommodation.
+
+And here, though it interrupt the course of my narrative, I apprehend
+some particulars concerning this country may be agreeable to such of my
+readers as are strangers to it.
+
+The fruitful Chili is a long and narrow strip of coast-land, bathed on
+the West by the Great Ocean, so falsely called the Pacific; divided on
+the North from Peru by the desert tract of Atacoma; and on the East,
+from Buenos Ayres, by the chain of the Cordilleras, or Andes, whose
+snow-covered summits are diversified by the columns of fire continually
+emitted from numerous volcanoes; on the South it extends as far as the
+Straits of Magellan, and indeed also claims the wholly useless island of
+Terra del Fuego, which is rarely, if ever, visited by a Chilian.
+
+The Spaniard Valdivia may be considered as the real discoverer of Chili.
+He established here the first Spanish settlement, the present capital,
+St. Jago, and subsequently, the town of Conception. For a long time the
+Spaniards were engaged in bloody and uninterrupted war with the original
+inhabitants of the country, called Araucanians. This strong and
+enterprising people withdrew into the mountains, where they were
+invincible, and from whence they have continued, to the present day, to
+annoy the descendants of the intruders, who acknowledge and have
+hitherto respected their independence. They still preserve in their
+mountains and fastnesses their ancient mode of living, and remain
+faithful to the religion and manners of their ancestors. Unluckily for
+the Spaniards, they have become very dangerous neighbours by providing
+themselves with horses, which, as they are skilful riders, enable them
+to execute their predatory expeditions with a rapidity that renders them
+almost always successful. A few of them have settled in the valleys, at
+the foot of the mountains, and adopted the Christian religion, without
+however amalgamating with the Spaniards, or losing their freedom.
+
+The lower class of the present inhabitants of Chili is a mixed race,
+sprung from the union of Spaniards with Araucanian women: they are well
+grown, of a dark brown complexion, and have a lively red in their
+cheeks. The men are all good riders, and have brought to great
+perfection the art of catching wild animals with the _lasso_. The upper
+classes have preserved their Spanish blood pure: they are also very well
+formed, the females nearly always handsome, and some of them remarkably
+beautiful. La Pérouse found them decorated with metal rings; they now
+adorn themselves with much taste in Parisian fashions, which reach them
+by the way of Peru: their manners, though they do not approach so nearly
+to the forms of European society as do those of the upper ranks in Rio
+Janeiro, are nevertheless not deficient in refinement.
+
+The climate resembles that of the middle of France, and vegetation
+thrives abundantly in its fertile soil. Among many kinds of native
+animals, the wild goats are the most numerous, and are scarcely ever
+tamed. Chili is particularly rich in beautiful birds; troops of parrots
+are seen on the wing; humming-birds, and butterflies of all kinds, hover
+round the flowers, and swarms of lantern-flies sparkle through the
+night; while venomous insects and snakes are unknown.
+
+This fine country has been long neglected. Spanish jealousy allowed no
+trade with foreign nations; and the introduction of the Inquisition was
+sufficient to prevent all mental advancement. The inhabitants are also
+justly accused of idleness, in not having taken more advantage of the
+productiveness of their soil. Now, however, that they have thrown off
+the yoke under which their industry was oppressed, and burst the fetters
+of the Inquisition, which bowed down their minds, they begin to be
+ashamed of the low grade of civilization on which they stand, in
+comparison with other nations, and are exerting themselves to attain a
+more respectable station in the scale.
+
+The Chilians are chiefly indebted for their independence to the
+well-known General San Martin. In the year 1817, he made the celebrated
+campaign over the Andes from Buenos Ayres, attacked and completely
+defeated the Spaniards, and laid the foundation of the freedom of Chili.
+It is now governed by plenipotentiaries from all the provinces, under
+the presidency of General Freire.
+
+The Bay of Conception is a most eligible resting-place for the voyager
+in these seas to touch at, on account of its safe and commodious
+harbour, its abundant supply of provisions, and the healthiness of its
+climate. Evidently destined by nature for the central point of Chilian
+commerce, it must certainly supersede the unsafe roads of Valparaiso.
+Freire has already determined to establish an Admiralty in the
+neighbourhood of Talcaguana, and as much as possible to encourage the
+population of that part of the country. The village of Talcaguana,
+consisting of about fifty small and poor houses, and another still
+smaller, called Pencu, have been the only settlements on this bay since
+the destruction, in the year 1751, of the old town of Conception by an
+earthquake--no uncommon occurrence in these regions. The new town of
+this name has been built farther inland, on the banks of the beautiful
+river Biobio, and is seven miles distant from Talcaguana.
+
+Early in the morning on the 18th of January, I went with Dr. Eschscholtz
+to Talcaguana, where horses were in waiting to take us to Conception.
+The heavy, clumsy cars drawn by oxen, which I believe I described in my
+former voyage, are the only kind of carriage known here; and as even the
+ladies use these only on state occasions, they perform all their
+journeys, as in days of old, on horseback.
+
+The Russian flag having waved here but twice since the foundation of the
+world, curiosity had brought a great crowd to witness my disembarkation;
+and as it was now ascertained that the Captain was the same who, eight
+years before, had so much delighted the inhabitants with a ball, many
+of my old acquaintances and guests had assembled to welcome me. I could
+not resist their kind and pressing invitations to visit them once more,
+before going to Conception. I was received with the greatest cordiality,
+and all possible pains were taken to entertain me; but they complained
+sadly of the ravages of war, which had brought its usual concomitants,
+poverty and ruin, in its train. A melancholy change had taken place
+since my former visit; some of the wealthiest families had removed from
+Lima, and a striking difference was perceptible in the establishments of
+those that remained; while the silver utensils which formerly had been
+so common even among the poorer inhabitants, had wholly disappeared, and
+were replaced by a bad description of stone ware.
+
+The same traces of desolation were visible along the once beautiful road
+to Conception, whither we proceeded on spirited horses, as soon as we
+had paid the required visits. Instead of the numerous flocks and herds
+which once adorned the meadows, burnt villages, uncultivated fields,
+devastated orchards, and swarms of beggars, presented a painful picture
+of universal want and misery. Such are the heavy sacrifices with which
+Chili has purchased her independence. May she enjoy their fruits under a
+government sufficiently wise and powerful to restore her prosperity!
+
+Our two hours' ride afforded ample time and scope for these reflections;
+and on reaching the town, we were concerned to find similar symptoms of
+misfortune. A great part of it lay in ruins; and the houses yet standing
+were occupied, not by useful citizens, or active, speculating merchants,
+but by soldiers. The former have, with few exceptions, withdrawn from
+Conception to Mexico and Peru. But the war of the Revolution is not
+chargeable with all the desolation which has befallen this unhappy town.
+A year before it broke out, a great horde of wild Araucanians, availing
+themselves of an opportunity when the Chilian troops were elsewhere
+employed, fell so suddenly upon the town during the night, that the
+inhabitants, who had not the slightest warning till the enemy was within
+their walls, were unable to defend themselves. Well knowing that they
+could not maintain their post, the Araucanians were active in the work
+of rapine and murder, and at length withdrew to their mountains laden
+with rich booty.
+
+These Araucanians, among whom such expeditions are not unfrequent, are,
+according to the accounts of officers here, a very warlike people, well
+armed with bows, arrows, and lances: they make their onset in great
+hordes, with a wild yell, and with such fury and rapidity that it is not
+easy even for regular troops to resist. If this, however, can be firmly
+withstood, they are in a few minutes defeated and put to flight. When
+pursued, they escape shots and sabre strokes by the dexterity with which
+they fling themselves on either side of their horses; sometimes even
+hanging under the horse's belly while it is going at full gallop. When
+escape is impossible, they defend themselves to the last, preferring
+death to captivity.
+
+From Rio Janeiro I had brought a letter of introduction to a once rich
+and still prosperous merchant in Conception, named Mendiburu; I
+immediately sought him out, and was received and entertained with the
+kindest hospitality. His house proved to be the same which, on my
+former visit to Conception, the then Governor had appointed for my
+accommodation. At that time many discontented spirits had already shown
+themselves, had assumed the appellation of patriots, and were persecuted
+by the Government; Mendiburu was one of these, and having made his
+escape, the Government, till its overthrow, had kept possession of his
+house.
+
+My complaisant host, a little man, rather advanced in years, who in many
+respects was extremely useful to us, accompanied us, as soon as we had
+arranged our dress, to the President Freire. The latter received us in
+the full uniform of a general officer, with the most ceremonious
+politeness, but still kindly, although something of distrust might be
+perceived in his deportment.
+
+Our circumstances with respect to Spain were known; and, as I afterwards
+learned, it was absurdly enough imagined, that Russia had designs upon
+Chili, and that these formed the secret motive of our visit. Freire, who
+had already distinguished himself as a general, is a stately-looking
+man, at that time about forty-five years of age, and of a very agreeable
+exterior; he was born in Talcaguana, of very poor parents, and, without
+enjoying any particular advantage of education, has raised himself, by
+his own merit alone, to the high rank he occupies.
+
+After an unmeaning sort of conversation, consisting of little else than
+civilities, I endeavoured to procure the permission of the President for
+our naturalist and mineralogist to make a journey into the Cordilleras,
+which he, however, politely but positively refused, on the ground that
+the Chilians were at war with the people in the mountains. I afterwards
+learnt from Mendiburu, that this was merely a pretence, as the President
+had already succeeded in establishing peace and an amicable league with
+the Araucanians. A small military escort would therefore have been amply
+sufficient to protect the travellers from all danger of annoyance; but
+here the weakness of the newly established government betrayed itself.
+They are distrustful of strangers, and act upon the old Spanish
+maxim,--to close the interior of the country against them. The recent
+discovery of gold and silver mines in the mountains, which was still
+kept secret, from the fear that foreign powers might covet these
+treasures, probably, also, contributed to a refusal which has
+undoubtedly proved, for the present, a serious loss to science. All the
+arguments I could urge to obviate the President's objections were
+ineffectual: all I could obtain for our learned associates was
+permission to travel round the bay of Conception and the environs of
+Talcaguana, for which a passport was made out; and a subaltern officer
+was appointed to accompany them, who in all probability had also his
+private instructions to see that the journey extended no farther.
+
+Overwhelmed with courtesies and promises to make our residence here as
+agreeable as possible, we left the President, and concluded the day in
+pleasant society at the house of our host Mendiburu, who on the
+following morning accompanied us back to Talcaguana. He had the
+complaisance to surrender for our accommodation and the convenience of
+our astronomical observations, a large house belonging to him in
+Talcaguana, which had once been inhabited by La Pérouse. I took
+immediate possession of it, and our time was now very agreeably divided
+between the necessary attention to the repairs and provisioning of the
+ship, scientific observations, and the society of the hospitable
+natives.
+
+The little town was soon filled with warlike tumult. A grenadier
+regiment from Conception marched in with drums beating and a very good
+band playing. The uniform was in the French fashion, clean and
+substantial; the muskets were in the best order.
+
+Freire has most zealously exerted himself to raise a respectable army;
+but to bring a rabble of adventurers from all nations into proper
+discipline is no easy task, especially where there is not money enough
+to pay them punctually; even the officers are mostly foreigners, and,
+with few exceptions, ignorant and stupid beyond all belief. With such a
+soldiery, patriotism or enthusiasm in the cause is of course out of the
+question. The Chilian soldier fights like a robber, for the sake of the
+booty he hopes to acquire; and covetousness will form the foundation of
+his valour, till increase of population shall permit the organization of
+a national militia.
+
+A few regiments had been sent over to the island of Quiquirino, perhaps
+in order to render desertion more difficult: here they had formed a
+camp, and were exercised in various manoeuvres. The whole force,
+consisting of three thousand men, was destined, under the command of the
+President, to attack the island of Chiloe, the only spot still remaining
+in possession of the Spaniards. They were now waiting the arrival of the
+requisite vessels from Valparaiso.
+
+On the 20th of January, amidst the thunder of the artillery, a new
+Constitution was proclaimed at Conception, signed there in great form by
+Freire, and afterwards read in many other towns of the Republic. Some of
+the inhabitants received it with enthusiasm, but it by no means gave
+satisfaction to all. In Talcaguana, opinions were much divided, and
+loudly and undisguisedly expressed. In every company the new
+Constitution became the chief subject of conversation, and often gave
+occasion to violent disputes. Even the ladies were not exempt from this
+political mania: they gave their opinions with unhesitating confidence
+and decision, and, in fact, often appeared fully as capable of forming
+a correct judgment as the men.
+
+Without entering into these criticisms, I shall only remark, that one
+regulation of the Chilian Constitution must certainly be
+disadvantageous--the public exercise of any other religion than the
+Catholic is forbidden; Catholics only can fill civil offices (with the
+military such strictness is impracticable); nor is any one permitted to
+carry on a mechanical trade who does not belong to this Church.
+
+If the advantage of universal toleration is so evident in the most
+flourishing states, how much more desirable must it be for one so thinly
+peopled, and where industry and knowledge are so little advanced.
+
+We frequently received visits on board from the ladies and gentlemen of
+Chili; and once from an Araucanian chief, accompanied by his daughter
+and some attendants. A collation was prepared for the Araucanians, of
+which they heartily partook; and despising the knife and fork, helped
+themselves plentifully with their fingers. The meal being concluded, we
+made them some trifling presents, with which they were much delighted;
+the chief also begged a piastre, and his daughter (a true woman, though
+a savage,) a looking-glass. After she had contemplated her features for
+some time with much satisfaction, the treasure was passed from hand to
+hand among her people, who all appeared extremely well content with the
+reflection of their own faces, although, according to our ideas of
+beauty, none of them had any cause for vanity. They are of the middle
+stature, strongly built, and of dark complexions. Their hair is black,
+and hangs loosely over their shoulders; and their little Chinese eyes,
+and prominent cheek-bones, seemed to indicate an Asiatic origin. The
+expression of their faces is good-natured, lively, and rather
+intelligent. Their dress is very simple, consisting merely of a piece of
+many-coloured striped woollen stuff of their own manufacture: in shape,
+it is an oblong square, with a hole in the centre through which the head
+is passed, the longer ends hanging down to the knee before and behind,
+the shorter at each side falling over the shoulders, and the lower part
+of their limbs remaining bare. The Spanish Chilians call this garment a
+_pancho_, and often use it in winter as a surtout: among the common
+people it makes the daily, and sometimes even the only clothing.
+
+The officers of the regiment stationed here politely gave a ball in our
+honour, which, as might be expected in this poor village, did not prove
+very brilliant; but as my young officers found plenty of pretty and
+agreeable partners, they were perfectly satisfied. The old custom of
+opening a ball with a minuet is still practised here, and the Chilians
+dance it remarkably well.
+
+Besides the dances common among us, a sort of fandango is a favourite
+here: it is expressly adapted to display the graces of a fine figure to
+the best advantage, and is danced by two persons, whose picturesque
+attitudes and motions are accompanied on the guitar, and by tender
+songs, according in expression with the pantomimical representations of
+the dance.
+
+We determined to return the complaisance of the natives by giving a ball
+on board our ship to our acquaintances in Talcaguana, and some from
+Conception. My officers made every effort to surpass the Chilians in the
+elegance of their entertainment; and having been detained on shore
+during their preparations, and till the hour appointed for the ball, I
+was really astonished to see how much they had been able to achieve. The
+deck was changed into a large illuminated saloon, decorated with fine
+myrtle trees, luxuriant garlands, and bouquets of flowers of every
+colour, exhaling the sweetest perfumes, and appropriate transparencies
+in the background opposite the entrance. The cabins had been cleared for
+refreshment-rooms; and the musicians, concealed behind a curtain, were
+to pour forth their animating strains unseen by the dancers. The
+cheerful scene was rapidly filled with cheerful faces; graceful figures
+moved in the lively dances; and love and beauty alone seemed to preside
+within the joyous precincts. But suddenly a universal confusion and
+panic terror was spread among the company, and chiefly among the ladies.
+Some suspicious simpleton or mischievous wag had whispered that we had a
+design of secretly weighing anchor during this festivity, and sailing
+away with our beautiful prisoners. My friend Mendiburu, however, at
+length succeeded in banishing this ridiculous apprehension, and
+restoring tranquillity. Pleasure and confidence again reigned over the
+revels, till the sun stood high in the heavens; and like every other
+earthly enjoyment, even our ball drew to a close, though it bade fair to
+linger long in the recollection as well of our returning guests as of
+some of the young entertainers.
+
+The delightful weather tempted us, soon after this, to make an excursion
+to the opposite shores of the bay, and visit the ruins of the old town
+of Conception. Mendiburu was of the party, as were all of our scientific
+brethren, and as many of the officers as duty permitted to be absent.
+Very early, on a beautiful morning, we distributed our party in three
+large boats, and rowed, in two hours, to the destined point. We landed
+at the village of Pencu, which, like Portici upon Herculaneum, is built
+upon the ruins of the former town of Conception, and whose inhabitants
+live quietly and cheerfully over the graves of their unfortunate
+predecessors, and disturb themselves little with the thought, that the
+same fate may bury them one day in a living tomb.
+
+About fifteen houses, surrounded by gardens, lie scattered here over a
+lovely plain, watered by the small river St. Peter. Nature here appears
+more luxuriant and productive than at Talcaguana. The mountains which
+encircle this valley rise gently to a moderate height, and delight the
+eye by the freshness of the shrubs with which they are covered.
+
+While we gave chase to many kinds of birds and insects for the
+improvement of our collection, the sailors threw out a great net, and
+took a quantity of shell and other fish with which the sea abounds in
+this neighbourhood, and which make the chief subsistence of the poorer
+classes of people. The environs of this village are considered the
+loveliest district round the bay, and infinitely surpassing Talcaguana
+in the beauty of its scenery. Few remains of the old town are visible.
+The earth seems to have actually opened and swallowed it up, leaving
+scarcely a trace behind. Even the yawning gulph in which it sunk has
+filled again, so that it is only here and there upon the plain that some
+fragment of a former dwelling reminds one of the fearful catastrophe.
+
+The inhabitants of Talcaguana and Conception make excursions to Pencu,
+to examine, as a curiosity, a water-mill established there by some
+foreigner. We found it so out of repair as to be unserviceable, and the
+owner complained that he could find no one capable of mending it. The
+wheat is here ground to flour by beating it in stone pots with heavy
+wooden clubs; which may serve to give some idea of the progress the
+Chilians have made in the useful arts.
+
+Mendiburu possessed an estate near Pencu, where we partook of a pleasant
+meal under the shade of fruit-trees. After dinner the whole company went
+shooting, and in the course of a few hours had killed several hundred
+water-birds of various kinds. The flocks in which they fly are sometimes
+so numerous as to darken the air. During our absence such a one was
+descried from the ship; it appeared a solid mass of about ten fathoms
+broad, and its flight lasted full three hours.
+
+The repairs of our ship had gone on quickly, and the time approached for
+our leaving Chili, when we perceived that the friendliness and civility
+we had hitherto experienced from the inhabitants was changing into
+reserve and evident distrust. Secret cabals were going on against us;
+and even the Government seemed inclined to act, if not with positive
+hostility, at least violently and arbitrarily towards us.
+
+The attention of the unreflecting and easily excited Chilians had first
+been attracted by the mustachios worn by one of my companions. They took
+him for a disguised Spaniard, who had accompanied us to sow discontents,
+and gain back the hearts of the people to the old government. Other
+misrepresentations may also have been made against us; but we were
+neither able to discover them, nor the actual intentions entertained
+towards us.
+
+When the ship was ready to sail, and I thought to quit Talcaguana in a
+few days, I returned to Conception to take leave of the President
+Freire. While on the road, being mounted on a spirited horse, I had got
+a little the start of my companions, and was stopping on a height to
+contemplate the beautiful landscape around me, when a well-dressed young
+man, coming from the direction of the town, suddenly met me, stood
+still, looking attentively at me for some moments, and then asked if I
+were the Captain of the Russian frigate. On my answering in the
+affirmative, after ascertaining that we were not observed, he said, "You
+are aware that the two parties in this country are differently disposed
+towards you. The day after to-morrow the officers of the regiment in
+Talcaguana will give you a farewell ball, when they intend to overpower
+the Russian officers, and take them prisoners. I have adopted this
+method of making you acquainted with the design; be on your guard." With
+these words he disappeared among the high shrubs. As soon as my
+companions came up, I took Mendiburu aside, and told him what I had just
+heard. Honourable and warm-hearted, my friend at first grew pale with
+astonishment and vexation; but, after a few moments' consideration, he
+felt convinced, and assured me, that the thing was impossible, and that
+my unknown monitor must be in error. At the same time we both
+determined, immediately on our arrival in Conception, to mention the
+circumstance to the President. Freire received me in a very friendly
+manner, and so confidently affirmed the project attributed to his
+officers, to be a mere "coinage of the brain" of my informant, that I
+trusted to his opinion, and thought no more of it, especially as our own
+ball had furnished a proof how easily the silliest and most groundless
+reports could gain credit.
+
+After leaving the President, I passed the remainder of the day, and
+slept, at the house of my friend Mendiburu. As I was preparing to go to
+bed, I heard a gentle knock at my room door; I opened it, and a servant
+of the house came timidly in. He told me that he was a Spaniard, and had
+been a sailor on board a frigate captured by the Chilians, and that his
+present master had taken him into his service, when a prisoner of war.
+He then gave me, under the most earnest injunctions not to betray him,
+the same caution which I had before received, adding some curses on the
+Chilian Government and people, whom he declared to be altogether a set
+of vagabonds and thieves. This repeated warning was too striking not to
+excite some apprehension. I took all the circumstances into
+consideration; and though the motive for such a proceeding remained
+perfectly incomprehensible, I still resolved to take measures for my
+security, in case it should be really attempted. I passed a sleepless
+night, and early in the morning bade adieu to my kind host, to whom I
+was unable to impart my new cause of anxiety, and hastened back to
+Talcaguana. On my arrival there, I found cards inviting myself and all
+my officers to a ball on the following evening: so far, therefore, the
+information I had received was correct. To avoid the appearance of
+suspicion, I accepted the invitation, and went to the ball accompanied
+by a few of my officers. The rest remained on board the ship, having
+placed her so as to bring her guns to bear upon the house in which the
+ball was given, and to command the respect of the neighbourhood. Thus
+Talcaguana was at our mercy; nor had we any thing to fear, either from
+the armed corvette, or the battery on shore; the former being so
+situated that it must needs have struck to our first broadside, and the
+latter mounting only six guns quite unfit for use, and resting upon
+broken carriages. We had also removed our observatory, and conveyed all
+our effects on board. These imposing preparations did not in all
+probability remain unobserved; at all events, the ball passed off
+quietly enough; but it was remarkable that very few of the officers who
+had given it were present; and instead of the gaiety which had reigned
+on the two former occasions, the greatest constraint was evident in the
+deportment of the company, who separated at an unusually early hour.
+
+At daybreak we weighed anchor, to resume our voyage; but before we were
+in motion, my faithful friend Mendiburu, who had travelled in the night
+from Conception, came on board with the news that a Chilian frigate and
+a corvette, which had arrived two days before from Valparaiso with
+troops, now lay at anchor at the mouth of the bay, and had received
+orders to prevent our departure. He had no idea what could have induced
+his government, against which he was excessively indignant, to meditate
+such an outrage; but he felt assured that the ships were by no means in
+a condition to obey. When in full sail, I parted from Mendiburu, for the
+second time, with hearty thanks for his sympathy and assistance.
+
+I now ordered the ship and guns to be prepared for battle, in case it
+should prove necessary to force our way out. We proceeded with a fresh
+and favouring breeze so rapidly, that in an hour's time we could
+distinguish the two vessels lying at anchor near the island of
+Quiquirino. As we approached, a gun was fired from the frigate, on which
+signal both ships got under sail, and took a direction that would enable
+them to oppose our progress. No longer doubting their hostile
+intentions, I lessened my sail to make the ship more manageable during
+the expected engagement. The matches were lighted, and every one stood
+at his post; but the Chilian frigate, a bad sailer, having run too far
+to leeward, could not come up to the assistance of the corvette which
+endeavoured to dispute our passage; but clearly perceiving, when within
+gun-shot, that we were prepared to resist an attack, found it most
+prudent to sail peaceably on, contenting herself with calling something
+to us through a trumpet, which we could not understand. Pursuing our
+course in an opposite direction, we were soon at a considerable distance
+from the corvette, and then saw the frigate tacking to follow us; but
+having already greatly the advantage, and the mouth of the bay clear
+before us, we rehoisted our sails, and without waiting for further
+evidence of Chilian hostility, stood out to sea; thus escaping attempts
+upon our liberty, the real motive of which, perhaps, was a desire to
+employ our ships in the transport of troops to Chiloe. The two English
+whalers had already been taken possession of for this purpose, without
+the consent of their captains.
+
+The result of our observations on land are as follows:
+
+  Latitude from Mendiburu's house in Talcaguana      36° 42' 15"
+  West Longitude                                     73°  8' 20"
+  Declination of the needle                          14° East
+  Inclination                                        80°  4'
+
+The tide is here quite imperceptible. During the whole time of our stay,
+Reaumur's thermometer stood between 15 and 17 degrees.
+
+
+
+
+THE
+
+DANGEROUS ARCHIPELAGO.
+
+
+
+
+THE
+
+DANGEROUS ARCHIPELAGO.
+
+
+The many islands composing this Archipelago, and which the little
+coralline insects have built in the midst of the ocean, are so low, that
+they are invisible at a very trifling distance. From this cause they
+have often, in darkness or bad weather, proved dangerous to navigation,
+and have thence derived their name. It was my intention now, to
+ascertain exactly the geographical position of the islands which I had
+discovered on my former voyage. O Tahaiti was to serve as a point from
+which to determine the longitude, and at the same time to furnish us
+with provisions.
+
+I directed my course to this Archipelago, between the parallels of 15
+and 16 degrees of South latitude, because this is not the usual track
+of merchants' ships, nor has it been taken in voyages of discovery, so
+that I thought it not improbable that we might fall in with other
+unknown islands. In pursuance of this plan, we steered north-west, for
+the above mentioned parallel. An uninterrupted fresh south wind having
+carried us six hundred and sixty miles forwards in three days, brought
+us into the hot climate so suddenly, that we were much inconvenienced by
+it. The island of Juan Fernandez, whither the Spaniards, when masters in
+Chili, used to banish criminals and republicans, lay on our left, and
+the little uninhabited rocky islands of Felix and Ambrosia at a little
+distance on our right. After rapidly gaining the Southern Tropic, our
+voyage, though pleasant, was far more tranquil; the slightness of the
+motion between the Tropics, admits of employment on board a ship, for
+which a sailor has generally little opportunity; even drawings may be
+executed in the neatest manner.
+
+On the 17th February we found ourselves under eighteen degrees of South
+latitude, and a hundred and five degrees longitude. The weather
+continued fine and serene, and our men expressed a wish to interrupt the
+uniformity of their lives, by getting up a play. The theatre was
+prepared, the play-bills given out, and the orchestra had even made the
+signal for the company to assemble, when our merriment was suddenly
+changed into terror and distress; another sailor fell overboard. He had
+been keeping watch on the fore-mast, to provide for our safety against
+land and shallows, in this untried region, and having neglected to
+secure his own, fell a sacrifice to his thoughtlessness. Being injured
+by the fall, he immediately sunk, and all our efforts to save him proved
+fruitless. Separated as we had long been from our native country, the
+loss of a member of our little society, thus bound together through good
+or ill fortune, was sensibly felt; the poor fellow was, besides, one of
+our best sailors: in the most violent storms, he had often executed the
+most dangerous tasks at the mast-head with the greatest skill, and now
+in the finest weather, with the ship moving in a manner scarcely
+perceptible, was he destined to end, thus suddenly, his active and
+useful life.
+
+Having sailed four thousand miles in three weeks, since we left Chili,
+we reached the neighbourhood of the dangerous Archipelago. By degrees we
+now lost, contrary to all rule in this climate, the south-east
+trade-wind, which had hitherto been so favourable to us, and contrary
+winds from the West and North brought us very bad weather. An opinion
+has been hitherto entertained, that the coral islands, from lying so low
+and in small masses, could produce no change in the atmosphere, and that
+the trade-winds, to which they offered no obstruction, would continue to
+blow uninterruptedly in their neighbourhood. Repeated experience has,
+however, convinced me that this is an error, and that these little
+islands, at certain seasons, often cause variations from the ordinary
+tropical weather.
+
+On the 26th of February, we entered 16° of latitude, and 129° of
+longitude. The wind blew from the West: black clouds labouring upwards,
+covered the sky; violent and sudden gusts expended their fury on us, and
+lightnings flashed from every corner of the horizon. The night was
+really dreadful, and the tempest continued to rage, through a darkness
+which, but for the lightning, would have been total, while torrents of
+rain swept our decks. Nor did the return of light bring us much relief;
+when about noon the heavens cleared for a short time, and allowed us a
+little respite; the storm set in again with renewed violence, and for
+four days and nights we were condemned to struggle with this tremendous
+weather. It is surprising how such tempests can arise at so great a
+distance from land. In the ship Rurik, in this same region, at the same
+season of year, I have before met with similar though scarcely such
+furious storms. On the 2nd of March the tropical wind returned, and
+brought with it clearer weather. It was indeed very hot, (Reaumur's
+thermometer did not fall even in the night below 24,) but the whole crew
+continued in good health. On this evening we calculated that we were in
+15° 15' latitude, and 139° 40' longitude; and just as the sun was
+sinking, the man at the mast-head called out that land was in sight. The
+pleasure of making a new discovery set all our telescopes in motion, and
+before night set in we plainly distinguished a very low, thickly wooded
+island. Since no navigator, to my knowledge, had ever been here before,
+and the newest charts described nothing but empty space, we conceived we
+had a right to consider ourselves the first discoverers, and named the
+island, after our ship, Predpriatie: we now tacked to stand out to sea
+for the night, and at break of day again made towards the island, under
+feelings of strong excitement. The many telescopes which our eager
+curiosity pointed towards its object, seemed each endued with the
+magical power of conveying different images to the sight. Some of us saw
+what others saw not, till these delusions of the imagination vanished
+before the conviction produced by rising columns of smoke visible to
+all, that the island was inhabited. We could soon afterwards, from the
+mast-head, perceive its entire extent. The dazzling whiteness of the
+coral shore fringed a bright green ground upon which rose a forest of
+palms; and we distinguished canoes moving upon a large lake in the
+centre of the island. By rapid degrees, we approached so near that every
+object became perceptible with the naked eye. A tall, strong,
+dark-coloured race of naked savages were assembling on the shore, gazing
+on the ship in great agitation, with gestures of astonishment. Some were
+arming with long spears and clubs, others kindling piles of wood,
+probably, that the smoke might be a signal to neighbouring islands of
+their requiring assistance against the unknown sea-monster. From pretty
+huts of plaited reeds, under the shade of bread-fruit trees, the women,
+some of them with children in their arms, were flying to conceal
+themselves in the forest. Such was the commotion our appearance
+occasioned in this little community. A few heroes summoned courage
+enough to advance, with threatening attitudes, to the margin of the
+shore; but no single canoe, though many lay on the coast, ventured to
+approach us. Judging from their size and the good arrangement of their
+sails, these canoes seem intended for visits to other and even distant
+islands. We sailed quite round our new discovery without finding any
+haven by which we could effect a landing; and the sea being tempestuous,
+with a high and boisterous surf, we were compelled to renounce our
+desire of becoming more intimately acquainted with the Predpriatians.
+The unclouded sky enabled us, nevertheless, to determine by observation
+the exact latitude and longitude of this little island, whose greatest
+extent is only four miles from E.N.E. to W.S.W. The latitude of its
+central point is 15° 58' 18" South, and its longitude, 140° 11' 30". The
+variation of the needle was 4° East.
+
+When we had finished our observations, I steered a westerly course for
+the island of Araktschief, discovered in the year 1819 by the Russian
+Captain Bellingshausen, in order to convince myself that it was actually
+not the one we had just quitted.
+
+At four o'clock in the afternoon we could already see this island from
+the mast-head, and we reached it before sunset. It bears, with respect
+to size and circumstances, so close a resemblance to that of
+Predpriatie, that they might easily be mistaken, if their relative
+situations were not exactly known.
+
+From our observation, we found the latitude of the centre of the island
+of Araktschief 15° 51' 20" South; and the longitude 140° 50' 50".
+According to Captain Bellingshausen's chart, the latitude is 15° 51',
+the longitude 140° 52'. Unable to discover any traces of inhabitants on
+this island, we should have supposed there were none, had not Captain
+Bellingshausen ascertained the contrary.
+
+At night we retired to some distance from the island and lay-to, that we
+might not, in the darkness, strike on any unknown land. At break of day
+I steered a north-west course, to see the island of Romanzow, (which I
+had formerly discovered when with the ship Rurik,) and convince myself
+of the accuracy of the astronomical observations then made. At eight
+o'clock in the morning we could see the north point of the group of
+Wolchonsky Islands, recently discovered by Captain Bellingshausen. When
+they lay seven miles off us, to the South, we found the longitude,
+according to our chronometers, 142° 2' 38". Bellingshausen considered it
+to be 142° 7' 42".
+
+From failure of wind, we could not make the island of Romanzow till the
+morning of the 8th of March. We then took advantage of the clearness of
+the heavens to ascertain, by the distance between the sun and moon, its
+exact longitude, which is 144° 28'. According to the observations we had
+made in the ship Rurik, it was 144° 24', consequently there was a
+difference of only four minutes.
+
+We now steered due West, in order to learn whether the island which, on
+my voyage in the Rurik, I had named after Admiral Spiridow, was really a
+new discovery, or, as has been said, only the most southerly of the King
+George's Islands. A fresh wind favoured our course, and at six o'clock
+in the afternoon we could see this island, my discovery of which has
+been denied, lying before us at a distance of six miles westward.
+
+At the same time, we could distinguish from the mast-head the southern
+part of another island, lying due North, with open water between the
+two. We were in 14° 41' 36" South latitude, and 144° 55' longitude.
+During the night we were becalmed, but in the morning a fresh breeze
+sprang up directly in our teeth, and the current carried us so far to
+the South, that, even from the mast, we could no longer see land. Under
+these circumstances, to attempt to regain the Spiridow Island would have
+been attended by too great loss of time; so that we remained uncertain
+whether this and the other, which we saw in the North, were the two King
+George's Islands or not. I can only say, that if they really are so,
+their discoverer has given their geographical position very
+inaccurately.
+
+The south-east trade-wind had ceased to befriend us, and shifting gusts
+from the north-west and south blew with such violence as frequently to
+tear our sails, accompanied by incessant rain and storm. The sea being
+at the same time remarkably calm, proved that we were surrounded by
+islands, and that, in consequence, the greatest caution was required in
+sailing, especially as the currents in this region are often very
+strong. We soon saw land directly before us; and as in the neighbourhood
+of all coral islands the depth of the sea cannot be sounded at a
+distance of fifty fathoms from the shore, we approached within a mile of
+it. This island stretches ten miles in length, from East to West, and is
+only four miles broad; it appeared to be a narrow strip of land,
+thickly overgrown with low bushes, surrounding a lake in the centre.
+Sea-birds only, of which we saw a vast number, appeared to inhabit this
+waste. The latitude of the middle of this island we found to be 15° 27',
+and its longitude 145° 31' 12". According to the chart of Admiral
+Krusenstern, it may be the island called Carlshof, discovered in the
+year 1722, by Roggewin, the geographical position of which is given
+differently on almost every chart, and whose very existence has been
+disputed. We were now in the midst of the dangerous Archipelago, and
+consulted our safety by riding every night only in parts which we had
+surveyed during the day.
+
+After reiterated nightly storms and rains, we shaped our course, with
+full sails, on the return of fine weather, due East, for the Palliser
+Islands discovered by Captain Cook, and reached them in a few hours. On
+board the Rurik, I had only seen their northern side, and I now wished,
+astronomically, to determine the southern. Cook mentions these islands
+very superficially, so that navigators have fallen into many errors
+concerning them. The group consists of a number of small islands
+connected by coral reefs, which form a circular chain, and enclose a
+large piece of water. When we had reached the southern point of the east
+Pallisers, we saw a ridge stretching ten miles westward to two small
+islands, and thence taking a northern direction to unite itself at a
+considerable distance with larger ones.
+
+Cook, from his own account, did not approach near enough to see this
+ridge, and from a distance mistook the two little woody islands it
+embraces for the most southerly of a distinct cluster, which he calls
+the fourth group of Palliser Islands. I can maintain that there are only
+three such groups, as the map which accompanies this volume will show.
+At noon we found our latitude to be 15° 42' 19", and the longitude 146°
+21' 6".
+
+The above-mentioned two small islands on the reef lay directly North,
+and the southern part of the first cluster of Pallisers was no longer
+visible. Viewed from this spot, the smaller ones might have been
+mistaken by us also for part of another group, if we had not previously
+ascertained that they were connected with the first by means of the
+reef. The second and third group could also be seen from this point; the
+former to the S.E. the latter S.W.
+
+At six o'clock in the evening, we found ourselves near the eastern point
+of the third group, and saw from the mast-head the Greigh Islands,
+discovered by Captain Bellingshausen. We now steered between these two
+groups, in order to free ourselves from the Archipelago, and regain the
+open sea. Again the night was tempestuous; but a calm occurred in the
+course of it, which, had it lasted longer, would have been dangerous, as
+a strong current was carrying us towards the shore. The morning sun, as
+usual in the Torrid Zone, dispersed the clouds and restored the
+beautiful blue of the tropical sky. We soon lost sight of land, but a
+black cloud still lowered in that part of the horizon where it had
+disappeared; a proof how powerfully these masses of coral attract
+thunder clouds. We now recovered the south-east wind, and favoured by
+it, took the shortest way to O Tahaiti. All the longitudes in the
+dangerous Archipelago which I have given, (without entering into the
+manner in which they were calculated,) are made out by means of the
+chronometer. This, on arriving at O Tahaiti, was found six minutes fifty
+seconds wrong; and the longitudes here given have been rectified
+accordingly.
+
+The following is from our observations the situation of the Palliser
+Islands:--
+
+  South point of the first group.        Lat.  15°  34' 25"
+                                         Long. 146°  6' 49"
+
+  The two small islands to the West
+  of the first group                     Lat.  15°  30' 15"
+                                         Long. 146° 20' 50"
+
+  The Eastern point of the third group   Lat.  15°  44' 52"
+                                         Long. 146° 28' 2".
+
+Most of the islands of this Archipelago are inhabited, but hitherto
+little is known of the natives, who are shy, and endeavour to avoid any
+intercourse with navigators. Byron landed by force on one of these
+islands; in the struggle many of the inhabitants were killed, the rest
+put to flight, and the provision of cocoa-nuts found in their huts
+plundered. Tradition may perhaps have exaggerated this attack. Cook also
+permitted some of his crew to land, who indeed met with no resistance,
+but their presents were received with the greatest indifference, and
+stones were thrown after them on their departure. Captain
+Bellingshausen, in the year 1820, wished to land on one of these
+islands, but the natives opposed his intention so seriously that he
+relinquished it rather than use force. These people resemble the O
+Tahaitians, their neighbours and relatives, in appearance and language;
+and when the latter are farther advanced in civilization, it may be
+presumed that intercourse with them will effect a considerable
+amelioration in the condition of the other South Sea islanders.
+
+
+
+
+O TAHAITI.
+
+
+
+
+O TAHAITI.
+
+
+This beautiful island, so richly endowed by nature with every thing that
+its simple and innocent natives can require for the enjoyment of
+existence, was perhaps first seen by the Spanish voyager Quiras, when,
+in the year 1606, he made an expedition from Lima, "to win," as a
+countryman of his expresses it, "souls for Heaven, and kingdoms for
+Spain." Since, however, the position pointed out by him is extremely
+incorrect, it is uncertain whether the island which he called Sagittaria
+was really O Tahaiti or not. More probably, the honour of the discovery
+belongs to the English Captain Wallis, who in the year 1767 landed
+there, and took possession of the country by a solemn declaration, in
+the name of his King. As, however, the Tahaitians did not understand
+him, this act remained unknown to them; and, notwithstanding a
+subsequent renewal, has fallen into oblivion. Captain Wallis gave it the
+name of King George the Third's Island.
+
+Eight months after him, the French Captain Bougainville visited it; and
+not knowing that Captain Wallis had been there before him, considered
+himself the first discoverer, and called it, from the most remarkable
+custom of the natives, _Nouvelle Cythère_, but heard that they
+themselves called it Tahaiti, or with the article, O Tahaiti; and this
+name it has retained.
+
+The celebrated Englishman, Cook, stopped there in each of his three
+voyages, between the years 1769 and 1778. He remained much longer in
+communication with the inhabitants than any of his predecessors had
+done; brought back Omai, to whom in London it had been attempted to give
+an European education, to his native land, and made use of the
+narrations he obtained from him during the voyage. Since that time, Cook
+and his companions, particularly the two Forsters, father and son, have
+given us considerable information concerning the condition of the
+Tahaitians before their conversion to the Christian faith.
+
+To estimate the effect of this great change, we must compare Christian
+Tahaiti as it now is, with the accounts these early voyagers have left
+us of its heathen times; and as every reader may not be conveniently
+able to do so, a short review of them may not be considered unwelcome.
+
+The Society Islands, of which Tahaiti is the largest, are, like many
+others, either fragments of a Southern continent swallowed up by
+earthquake, or a mass of rock ejected from the bottom of the sea by
+subterranean fire, which gradually becoming covered with a fertile soil,
+is now adorned by the most beautiful vegetation. It consists of two
+peninsulas united by a narrow isthmus, which together are about one
+hundred and twenty miles in circumference; towards the centre of each
+rise wild rocky mountains, intersected by deep ravines, from the side of
+which, thickly wooded almost to their summits, flow numerous streamlets
+of pure transparent water, forming the most picturesque cascades as
+they descend from every direction into the sea. The high mountains are
+uninhabited, and the settlements made only in the valleys, more
+especially in the low land between the mountains and the sea-shore.
+
+In these charming amphitheatrical landscapes, their houses, consisting
+only of roofs resting on stakes, surrounded and shaded by bananas,
+bread-fruit and cocoa-trees, are scattered at small distances from each
+other.
+
+Attached to every house are enclosed fields, where the proprietors
+cultivate their yams, sweet potatoes, and other wholesome and pleasant
+roots, which form their chief nourishment.
+
+The rest of the cultivated land is filled by plantations of bananas and
+plantains, or little forests of cocoa and bread-fruit trees, so
+luxuriantly interwoven, that the burning rays of the sun cannot
+penetrate to injure the bright verdure which clothes the soil. The
+neatly kept grass footpaths leading through these groves from one
+dwelling to another, are variegated with flowers of the richest colours
+and most fragrant perfumes, and enlivened by the notes of innumerable
+birds arrayed in all the splendid hues of the Tropics. Although Tahaiti
+is only seventeen degrees from the Equator, the heat is so much
+moderated by refreshing breezes that it is very supportable even to an
+European. Bougainville never found it above twenty-two, and often under
+eighteen degrees of Reaumur. That indeed was during the winter; but even
+in January, the middle of the Tahaitian summer, the atmosphere is much
+cooled by the frequent rains. The air is usually dry, clear, and
+particularly healthy; sick people brought ashore from a sea voyage
+recover rapidly. Here are neither ants, musquitoes, nor any of the
+tormenting insects so common in tropical climates; no beast of prey, no
+destructive worm nor serpent; even the scorpion (of which a small sort
+is to be met with) here loses its poison. The only plague of this kind
+is a large rat, which does much mischief in the fields, and sometimes
+even bites the Tahaitians during their sleep.
+
+Bougainville says, "The inhabitants of Tahaiti consist of two distinct
+races, which remain such, although their language and manners are the
+same, and they appear to mingle indiscriminately with each other. One,
+the most numerous, produces the tallest men, commonly six feet and
+upwards; and I have never seen better proportioned, or finer forms. A
+sculptor could not choose a more suitable model for a Mars or a
+Hercules. There is nothing to distinguish their features from those of
+Europeans; and if they were clothed, and less exposed to the air and the
+burning sun, they would be quite as fair. Their hair is usually black
+(Wallis saw fair people, and Banks even Albinos). The other race is of
+middle stature, with coarse curling hair, and resembles the Mulatto in
+complexion and features."
+
+Cook and his companions considered this difference among the Tahaitians
+to arise from the circumstance of the tall fair race, (called Eris,
+which is pronounced _Yeri_,) the more distinguished class, being less
+exposed to the sun and to hard labour, and their women more reserved and
+less licentious.
+
+We were however more inclined to agree with Bougainville, who supposed
+the dark Tahaitians to be the original inhabitants, and the Yeris
+invaders, who at some remote period had subjugated them; for the latter
+are the exclusive possessors of the land; the others obtaining only a
+certain remuneration in fruits and vegetables for cultivating the fields
+and plantations of their masters. The kings and all great personages are
+of this race, which is held by the common people in much veneration.
+
+That the language and customs of both races should have assimilated is
+natural; but with respect to their intermarriages, Bougainville was in
+error; the pride of the Yeris keeps them aloof from any such
+connections, which, had they subsisted, must have long since destroyed
+the broad and acknowledged line of distinction. It is, however, only
+fair to confess, that this hypothesis of an invasion is unsupported by
+any Tahaitian tradition.
+
+"The men of both races," continues this traveller, "allow the lower part
+of the beard to grow, but shave the whiskers and the upper lip. Some cut
+their hair short off, others bind it together at the top of the head;
+both hair and beard they grease with the oil of the cocoa-nut. A girdle
+round the middle often serves for their only clothing; but the people
+of rank generally wear a large piece of stuff which falls as low as the
+knee. This is the principal garment of the women, who put it on in a
+very becoming manner. The female Yeris, who never expose themselves to
+the sun, and wear a hat of reeds adorned with flowers, which shades the
+face, are fairer than the men: their features are handsome, but they are
+chiefly remarkable for the beauty of their figures, which are not
+spoiled by the artifices of European fashions. They paint their cheeks
+red, and colour the lower part of the body dark blue, as an ornament and
+a distinction of rank.
+
+"Both sexes are tattooed, and both hang rows of pearls or flowers
+through holes pierced in their ears. The greatest cleanliness reigns
+among them; they bathe regularly, and wash themselves before and after
+meals."
+
+The descriptions of other travellers agree perfectly with this; all
+appear to feel the greatest kindness for these "nurselings of joyous
+nature," as some one calls them; and to have been particularly charmed
+with the women, of whom Wallis says, "They are all handsome, and some
+excessively lovely."
+
+The companions of Cook also speak in the highest terms of their
+attractions. Their tall and slender figures; the form of their faces,
+which is agreeable, though rather round than oval; the tender
+transparency of their skin; the complexions which, whether fair or
+brown, are always blooming; the expressive eyes, now flashing fire and
+now swimming in tenderness; the small white, even teeth, and fascinating
+smile, are rapturously described by the younger Forster.
+
+The nose only is defective in these beauties, it is usually too flat,
+but may sometimes be seen as perfectly formed as in the females of
+Europe.
+
+The curse, "in the sweat of thy brow shalt thou eat bread," falls
+harmless on the Tahaitians. Three bread-fruit trees are sufficient for a
+man's subsistence during a year; and he has here only to stretch out his
+hand to obtain this and many other fruits whose variety may please his
+palate. Nutritious roots are cultivated with great ease; and the sea
+yields abundance of shell and other fish, for the trifling trouble of
+catching it: the brooks also contain fish, and a species of crab. The
+opulent eat fowls and pigs roasted over hot stones in a hole in the
+ground, the flavour of which is very agreeable even to an European; and,
+by way of variety, they roast _dogs_ which have been fed upon
+vegetables, and are considered great delicacies.
+
+Several families often live together in the same house, in the greatest
+concord. Their furniture consists simply of a few ingeniously-woven mats
+for sleeping on, and some vessels made of gourds and cocoa-nut shells.
+
+The disposition of the Tahaitians is gentle, benevolent, open, gay, and
+peaceable, although some of them show scars of wounds received in war,
+which prove that they are not deficient in courage. To hatred and
+revenge they are wholly strangers. Hardly and unjustly as Cook sometimes
+treated them, he was pardoned immediately that he required their
+assistance, and showed the slightest wish to pacify them. Individuals of
+his crew often ventured to pass the nights alone and unarmed upon the
+island: they were every where received with the greatest hospitality,
+and overwhelmed with marks of friendship. The simple inhabitants, wholly
+devoid of envy, rejoiced in each other's good fortune, and when one
+received a present, all seemed equally gratified. Their feelings readily
+broke out either into smiles or tears: even men were often seen to weep;
+and their joys and sorrows were as fugitive as those of children. Nor
+are their minds more stable: notwithstanding the great curiosity with
+which they gazed at and required an explanation of every object in the
+ship, it was as impossible, says the elder Forster, to rivet their
+attention for any time, as to make quicksilver stand still.
+
+They seemed incapable of either mental or bodily effort, and their time
+was passed in indolence and enjoyment. They were, however, skilful in
+manufacturing a soft paper from the barks of trees; nets and lines from
+the fibres of the cocoa-nut; and hooks from muscle-shells; in weaving
+their rush mats, and especially in building canoes and war-boats. The
+latter, large enough to contain forty men and upwards, were made of
+planks laboriously split from the trunks of trees with sharp stones,
+for want of better implements, fastened together with cocoa threads, and
+well caulked. The value they set on our axes and nails may therefore be
+easily imagined.
+
+Like all islanders, they are expert seamen, but especially dexterous in
+swimming and diving. They fetch any thing with ease from the bottom of
+the sea, even at very considerable depths. The upsetting of a boat
+causes them no uneasiness; men and women swim round it till they succeed
+in righting it again; and then, baling out the water, continue their
+voyage with the utmost unconcern.
+
+These voyages, sometimes extending to considerable distances, have made
+the observation of the stars, their only guides, absolutely necessary to
+them. They have thus attained some astronomical knowledge.
+
+They distinguish the planets from the fixed stars, and call the former
+by particular names. They divide the year into thirteen months of
+twenty-nine days each, with the exception of one, which has less,
+apparently for the purpose of reconciling this lunar with a solar year.
+The day and night are each divided into six parts of two hours each,
+which they measure exactly in the day by the position of the sun, and at
+night by the stars. Medical men have considered them to possess much
+skill in surgery, from the kindly healing of wounds which, by their
+scars, have evidently been severe.
+
+The Tahaitians are particularly distinguished by their superior
+civilization from all other savages, among whom indeed they scarcely
+deserve to be ranked. Their language sounds agreeably, and is not
+difficult to learn. The vowels occur much more frequently than the
+consonants, our c, g, k, s, and p, being entirely wanting. Cook and his
+companions made considerable progress in it; and one of them says--"It
+is rich in figurative modes of expression; and I am convinced that a
+nearer acquaintance with it would place it on a level with the most
+distinguished for boldness and power of imagery."
+
+By means of this knowledge of their language, however imperfect, many
+details concerning the religion of the Tahaitians were gained. The elder
+Forster enters rather at large into the subject.
+
+They believed in one supreme God, _Athua-rahai_, creator and governor
+of the world, and of all other gods. They gave him a consort, who
+however was not of the same nature, but of a material and very firm
+substance, and therefore called _O-te-Papa_, that is to say, _Rock_.
+From this pair proceeded a goddess of the moon, the gods of the stars,
+the winds, and the sea, and the protecting deities of the several
+islands. After the chief god had created the sun, he conveyed his
+consort, the mighty Rock, from the West to the East over the sea: in
+their progress, some portions of her substance separated from her, and
+formed the islands.
+
+Besides the gods of the second rank, they believed also in inferior
+deities, and in a wicked genius, who killed men suddenly at the
+requisition of the priests--an article of faith which this order
+doubtless found very convenient. They also supposed that a genius dwelt
+in every man, thinking and feeling in him, and separated himself from
+the body after death, but without removing from it; often inhabiting the
+wooden images which are erected in the burial-places, but sometimes
+stealing at night into their habitations, and killing the sleepers,
+whose hearts and entrails he devoured. This belief in ghosts is perhaps
+not more universal in Tahaiti than among civilized nations.
+
+According to another of Cook's companions, the supreme God united
+departed souls with his own existence, which was signified by the
+phrase, "He eats them." This was purification, after which the soul, or
+the genius, reached the abode of eternal happiness. If a man, for some
+months before his death, had kept himself apart from women, he did not
+require this purification, but went direct to Heaven. The pride of the
+Yeris prompted them to believe in a Heaven peculiar to themselves, where
+they should associate only with their equals in birth.
+
+The Tahaitians of rank had each a _Marai_ sacred to themselves, and
+which served for their religious assemblies. The greatest and most
+solemn of these meetings were held at the Marai of the Kings. Here the
+priests harangued the people; and here was performed the rite which
+stained the otherwise amiable character of these islanders--the offering
+of human sacrifices! Cook was once present at one of these detestable
+oblations, and describes it circumstantially. Its object was to
+propitiate the assistance of the Gods, in a war about to be undertaken.
+
+The victim was always of the lower class. He was first killed, and the
+ceremonies were afterwards performed by the priests, and many prayers
+recited, in presence of the King and people. One of the formalities was
+the presentation of the left eye to the King, which however he did not
+receive. From this, Cook infers that the Tahaitians had at some period
+been eaters of human flesh, and that this morsel was offered to the King
+as a delicacy. If this conjecture be well-founded, which I think it is
+not, so horrible an appetite must have long since disappeared, as not a
+trace of it now remains. It is besides altogether contrary to the
+character and manners of the people. So, indeed, is the oblation of
+human victims; but this horrible rite had certainly been introduced by
+the priests, for the purpose of attracting towards their office an
+increased degree of veneration and awe. The burial of the dead was
+accompanied by many religious ceremonies, but with the birth of a
+child, or the celebration of marriage, their religion was no way
+concerned.
+
+If a woman bore her lover a child, which he acknowledged to be his, the
+marriage was concluded without further ceremony, but was easily
+dissolved and a new connexion formed.
+
+A married man would sometimes entertain a concubine, but never had more
+than one wife. The kings only formed an exception to this rule. The last
+monarch married at the same time the four daughters of a neighbouring
+king, and during our visit they were all living and respected as his
+widows. One only of them had brought him children; and when during the
+latter years of his government he became a convert to the Christian
+religion, this one only passed for his lawful consort.
+
+In both peninsulas of Tahaiti the form of government was monarchical,
+and each had its own king, assisted by a council of Yeris, whom he
+consulted on all important occasions. These were held in great
+veneration among the people. No one, not even a female or a Yeri of the
+highest rank, might appear before them without uncovering the upper part
+of the body--a token of respect which was usually paid only to the Gods
+in prayer or in passing a Marai. Before the princesses, the female sex
+only uncovered themselves. All his subjects were much attached to the
+sovereign, who reigned under a most singular law of succession.
+
+As soon as a son was born to him, the sovereignty passed from the king
+to the infant, in whose name, and during whose minority only, the father
+continued to exercise the Regency.
+
+The several districts were governed by deputies chosen from the class of
+Yeris, who were also the sole administrators of justice; which amongst
+this well-disposed people was generally very mild. The punishments in a
+great measure depend on the injured party, and consist chiefly in
+stripes. A native assured me that thieves are sometimes hung on a tree;
+but they more frequently escape with a few strokes, or sometimes
+altogether with impunity.
+
+The two kingdoms of Tahaiti were often in a state of mutual warfare,
+though they sometimes fought as allies against a common enemy. Cook and
+his companions saw the preparations for a war with the neighbouring
+island of Eimeo, and were present at a review of his naval force by the
+King O Tu. From the number of warriors who manned this fleet, the elder
+Forster estimated the entire population at not less than a hundred and
+thirty thousand souls. According to his opinion, Tahaiti was capable of
+containing and supporting an infinitely greater number of inhabitants,
+and he therefore conjectured that in a short time it would be found
+greatly increased. Experience has unfortunately proved this inference to
+be erroneous, as will appear in the sequel.
+
+Notwithstanding their usually gentle character, they treated their
+prisoners of war with barbarity, but in their defence may be urged the
+well-known fact, that in the heat of battle an unwonted rage will
+sometimes take possession of the best disposed minds, even amongst
+civilized nations; and it was only while this unnatural excitement
+lasted that the conduct of the Tahaitians laid them open to the
+imputation of cruelty.
+
+Both sexes and all ranks were given to stealing; and so dexterous were
+they in plundering the Europeans, that notwithstanding the utmost
+vigilance and precaution, few days passed without something being
+stolen. The young, beautiful, and noble Marorai stole, as the younger
+Forster relates, a pair of sheets from the cabin of an officer, where
+she had remained unnoticed during the general confusion occasioned by
+the ship running aground. Even the princesses appropriated trifles
+whenever they had an opportunity. Our experience, however, proves that
+the lessons they have received from their Christian pastors on the
+disgracefulness of theft have had a practically good effect.
+
+Neither can I deny that the morals of the Tahaitians were very
+exceptionable in another point, in which also the influence of the
+Missionaries has been beneficially exerted. If the modesty which
+conceals the mysteries of love among civilized nations be the offspring
+only of their intellectual culture, it is not surprising that a wholly
+uninstructed people should be insensible to such a feeling, and in its
+unconsciousness should even have established public solemnities which
+would strike us as excessively indelicate.
+
+The coarse hospitality of the Tahaitians went so far as to present to a
+welcome guest, a sister, a daughter, or even a wife; and they have been
+known to sell them for pearls, pieces of glass, or implements of iron.
+The women who distributed their favours indiscriminately, were almost
+always of the lowest class; but a most licentious association called
+Ehrioi, including both sexes, existed among the higher. Renouncing
+matrimony, and the hopes of progeny, its members rambled about the
+island leading the most dissolute lives; and if a child was born among
+them, the laws of the society compelled its murder, or the expulsion of
+the mother. The men were all warriors, and stood in high estimation
+among the people. The Ehrioi themselves were proud of the title, and
+even the King O Tu belonged to this profligate institution, to which,
+fortunately, the Missionaries have put an end.
+
+Where such manners prevailed, and woman was regarded merely as an object
+of pleasure, she could not stand in very high estimation; and love, in
+its best sense, remained wholly unknown among them. Hence the women of
+Tahaiti, although not so much secluded as among many other nations, were
+not permitted to eat with the men, and when the King and the Royal
+Family visited Cook, on board his ship, he was obliged to entertain even
+the princesses in a separate cabin.
+
+The fidelity of a wife among the Tahaitians required that she should not
+favour any man without the knowledge and consent of her husband; and a
+beating was the punishment generally incurred by a violation of this
+duty.
+
+Among the failings of the Tahaitians, their love of the intoxicating
+liquor which they prepared from the much cultivated Ava root, must not
+be omitted. Nor have the Missionaries been wholly unsuccessful in this
+respect. The drink is no longer allowed to be prepared, nor even the
+root to be cultivated; but unfortunately, its place has been partly
+supplied by the introduction of our wine and brandy; we, however, never
+saw a drunken person.
+
+Having now noticed all that was reprehensible in the otherwise amiable
+character of the Ante-christian Tahaitian, I hope the reader, in
+consideration of his many good qualities, will forgive his faults, and,
+in a friendly disposition towards him, cast a glance upon his innocent
+amusements, which were chiefly derived from music, dancing, mock-fights,
+and theatrical representations.
+
+Their musical instruments were very simple, and of two kinds only: the
+one, a sort of flute, producing four notes, and blown with the nostrils;
+the other, a drum, made of the hollow trunk of a tree; but the
+accompanying songs, usually extempore poems, were pretty, and showed the
+delicacy of their ear. The girls excelled in the dance; the married
+women were forbidden to take part in it, and the men never did. The
+dancers executed a species of ballet, and, according to the judgment of
+travellers, they might with little trouble become capable of performing
+on our theatres. The English dances they soon learnt, and in the
+well-known hornpipe, especially, displayed much grace.
+
+The mock-fights were of course in imitation of their serious warfare,
+and they parried with admirable dexterity the blow of a club or thrust
+of a lance, by which otherwise they must have been severely wounded. The
+dramatic pieces were performed by both sexes, and sometimes by persons
+of the highest quality. They were of a mixed character, serious, and
+comic, but for want of a thorough acquaintance with the language, they
+have been very imperfectly described to us. Thus, oppressed by no care,
+burdened by no toil, tormented by no passion, seldom visited by
+sickness, their wants easily satisfied, and their pleasures often
+recurring, the Tahaitians passed a life of enjoyment under the
+magnificent sky of the tropics, and amid scenes worthy of Paradise.
+
+On the 12th of March, a beautiful bright morning, we had the pleasure to
+perceive Tahaiti before us, like a light cloud in the clear horizon. All
+that we had read of its loveliness now rose to our remembrance,
+heightened by the vivid colouring of the imagination; but seventy miles
+were yet to be traversed ere we could tread the land of expectation, and
+a very slow progress, occasioned by a flagging wind, tried our patience.
+We continued, however, to advance, and the light cloud became larger,
+and denser, and higher, soon assuming the appearance of three separate
+hills belonging to different islands; the highest point, eight thousand
+feet above the level of the sea, is the summit of a mountain,
+distinguished from the others by its conical form.
+
+We next recognized the large rugged masses of rock of the interior,
+which have a most romantic appearance. The country gradually unfolded
+all its charms; the luxuriant growth of the trees, even to the
+mountains' tops, reminded us of the scenery of Brazil, and the
+picturesque valleys, with their thickets of bread-fruit, orange, and
+cocoa-trees, their cultivated fields, and plantations of bananas, became
+at length distinctly visible.
+
+It was not till the 14th that we reached the Cape, called by Cook Cape
+Venus, because he there observed the transit of this planet over the
+sun; and from its beauty, it deserves to be named after the charming
+goddess herself. It is a low narrow tongue of land, running out
+northward from the island, thickly shadowed by cocoa-trees, and forming,
+by its curve, the harbour of Matarai, not a very secure one, but
+generally preferred by sailors on account of the celebrity bestowed on
+it by Cook.
+
+When we were still a few miles distant from Cape Venus, we fired a gun
+to draw attention to the flag hoisted at the fore-mast, as a signal for
+a pilot. We soon saw a European boat steering towards us; it brought us
+a pilot, who, to our great surprise, addressed us in the Russian
+language, having recognized our flag as belonging to that nation: he was
+an Englishman of the name of Williams, who had first been a sailor on
+board a merchant ship, afterwards entered the service of the Russian
+American Company on the north-west coast of America, and was at length
+settled for life in Tahaiti. His wife was a native of the island; he was
+the father of a family, and carried on the occupation of a pilot in the
+Bay of Matarai. Wanderers of this kind often settle in the islands of
+the South Sea; but while they bring with them many vices peculiar to the
+lower classes in civilized life, are generally too ignorant and rough to
+produce any favourable influence on the natives. They are not all liable
+to this censure; and of about twenty English and Americans whom I found
+so naturalized in Tahaiti, some assuredly do not deserve it.
+
+Having a pilot on board, we steered direct for the extreme point of Cape
+Venus, where floated the national standard of Tahaiti. This flag
+displays a white star in a field of red, and, like many of the present
+arrangements, owes its origin to the Missionaries, who do not indeed
+bear the title of Kings of the island, but exercise an unlimited
+influence over the minds of the natives. We passed safely by the
+shallows lying before the Matawai Bay, (upon which Captain Wallis
+grounded, and which he called, after his ship, the Dolphin,) round the
+headland, to the western side, and at last anchored opposite the village
+of Matawai, at a distance of two hundred fathoms from the shore, in a
+black clay bottom of fifteen fathoms depth.
+
+Our frigate, as it entered the Bay, attracted to the beach a crowd of
+curious gazers, who greeted our arrival with a shout of joy. Numerous
+boats laden with all kinds of fruits, provisions, and other articles of
+merchandize, immediately put off from the shore, and we were soon
+surrounded by gay and noisy Tahaitians. As soon as the sails were taken
+in, I gave them permission to come on board, of which they eagerly
+availed themselves. With their wares on their backs, they climbed
+merrily up the sides of the ship, and the deck was soon transformed
+into a busy market, where all was frolic and fun; the goods were offered
+with a jest, and the bargains concluded with laughter. In a short time
+each Tahaitian had selected a Russian associate, to whom, with a
+fraternal embrace, he tendered his wish to exchange names,--a ceremony
+which implied a pledge to surrender to the new friend whatever he might
+wish for.
+
+It is probable that these sudden attachments were not quite
+disinterested; a view of procuring a better barter for their goods might
+have had some effect in producing the zeal with which they were struck
+up; but they certainly had every appearance of sincerity and cordiality,
+and in less than an hour these friendly allies were seen walking in
+couples, arm in arm, about the deck, as though they had been acquainted
+for years.
+
+Our clothing appeared to be prized by the Tahaitians above every thing
+we offered them, and the possession of any article of this kind set them
+leaping, as if out of their wits, for joy. On this day we saw no
+females; and when we were afterwards occasionally visited by the women,
+they always behaved with the greatest propriety.
+
+When the sun declined, our new acquaintances left us to return to their
+homes, satisfied with their bargains, and delighted with the presents
+they had received, and without having stolen any thing, although above a
+hundred of them had been on board at once.
+
+I had sent a message to the Missionary Wilson, by an officer who now
+returned, bringing for answer an assurance that the Missionary would
+with pleasure do all in his power to assist us in procuring our
+supplies; a promise he faithfully kept.
+
+On the following morning we were greeted by the sun from a cloudless
+sky, with a most superb illumination of the country opposite to his
+rising. His rays glittering on the mountain-tops before they reached our
+horizon, gradually enlivened the variegated green that clothed their
+sides down to the vales, till the King of Day burst upon our sight in
+all his splendour, arraying the luxuriant landscape of the shore in
+still more enchanting beauty. Among the thickets of fruit-trees were
+seen the dwellings of the happy inhabitants of this great
+pleasure-ground, built of bamboos, and covered with large leaves,
+standing each in its little garden; but, to our great astonishment, the
+stillness of death reigned among them; and even when the sun stood high
+in the heavens, no one was to be seen.
+
+The warm friendships formed but yesterday seemed already to have cooled;
+we were quite forgotten. At length we obtained from the boat, sent off
+to us at break of day with provisions, an explanation of this enigma.
+The inhabitants of Tahaiti were celebrating the Sunday, on which account
+they did not leave their houses, where they lay on their bellies reading
+the Bible and howling aloud; laying aside every species of occupation,
+they devoted, as they said, the whole day to prayer. According to our
+reckoning, the day was Saturday. This difference proceeded from the
+first Missionaries having reached Tahaiti from the west by the way of
+New Holland, while we had come eastward by Cape Horn.
+
+I resolved to go ashore and pay a visit to Mr. Wilson, that I might
+procure, through his means, a convenient place for our astronomical
+observations. We landed at the point of the Cape, because the shade of a
+thick palm grove there offered us immediate protection. No one received
+us on the strand; no human being, not even a dog, was visible. The very
+birds seemed here to celebrate the Sunday by silence, unless, indeed, it
+was somewhat too hot for singing. A little brook, meandering among
+shrubs and flowers, alone took the liberty of mingling its murmurs with
+the devotions of the Tahaitians. I sauntered along a narrow trodden path
+under the shade of palms, bananas, orange, and lemon-trees, inhaling
+their fragrance, and delighting in the luxuriance of nature. Though
+beautiful as this country is, it does not equal Brazil in the variety of
+its productions, and in the numbers of its humming-birds and
+butterflies. The loud prayer of the Tahaitian Christians reached my
+ears, as I approached their habitations. All the doors were closed, and
+not even the children allowed to enjoy the beauty of the morning.
+
+The small but pleasant house of the Missionary, built after the
+European fashion, stands in the midst of a kitchen-garden richly
+provided with all kinds of European vegetables.
+
+Mr. Wilson gave me a cordial welcome to his neat and simple dwelling,
+and presented to me his wife, an Englishwoman, and two children, besides
+two Englishmen, whom he named as Messrs. Bennet and Tyrman. They
+belonged to the London Missionary Society, and had left England three
+years before to visit the Missionary Settlements in the South Sea.
+
+The chief Missionary, to whom the others are subordinate, is named Nott,
+and lives in the capital where the King resides. He is now far advanced
+in life. He has made himself master of the Tahaitian language, and was
+the first who ever wrote it. He has translated the Bible, a Prayer Book,
+and some Hymns; and has printed a Grammar of the language, under the
+title of, "A Grammar of the Tahaitian Dialect of the Polynesian
+Language. Tahaiti: printed at the Mission Press, Burder's Point, 1823."
+
+He also first instructed the Tahaitians in reading and writing, which
+acquirements are now tolerably common among them. I am sorry not to
+have known Mr. Nott better, and therefore not to have it in my power to
+judge of the man as well as the Missionary. His character stands very
+high. Wilson, also an old man, has now lived twenty years in Tahaiti; he
+was originally a common sailor, but has zealously devoted himself to
+theology, and is honest and good-natured. Including Nott and Wilson,
+there are six Missionaries in Tahaiti alone, and only four among all the
+other Society Islands. Each Missionary possesses a piece of land,
+cultivated by the natives, which produces him in superfluity all that he
+requires, and he also receives an annual allowance of fifty pounds from
+the London Missionary Society. This Society has also sent Missionaries
+to Tongatabu, one of the Friendly Islands, and to Nukashiva, lately made
+known to us by Krusenstern.
+
+Besides these English Missionaries, some native Tahaitians, after
+receiving a suitable education, are sent to spread Christianity among
+the islands of the dangerous Archipelago. In Russia, a careful education
+and diligent study at schools and universities is necessary to qualify
+any one to be a teacher of religion. The London Missionary Society is
+more easily satisfied; a half savage, confused by the dogmas of an
+uneducated sailor, is, according to them, perfectly fitted for the
+sacred office.
+
+It was now church-time, and Wilson requested me to be present at the
+service,--an invitation which I accepted with pleasure. A broad straight
+path, planted with the cocoa and lofty bread-fruit tree, leads from his
+house, about a ten minutes' walk, to the place of worship. The
+church-yard, with its black wooden crosses, impresses the mind with a
+feeling of solemnity: the church itself is a handsome building, about
+twenty fathoms long and ten broad, constructed of light wood-work
+adapted to the climate, and whitened on the outside, which gives it a
+pretty effect among the green shades that surround it. The numerous
+large windows remain unglazed, because a free admission of the air is
+here desirable in all seasons; the roof, made of ingeniously plaited
+reeds, and covered with immense leaves, is a sufficient defence against
+the heaviest rain; there is neither steeple nor clock. The interior of
+the church is one large hall, the walls of which are neatly kept; it is
+filled with a number of benches, so placed, in long rows, that the
+occupants can have a convenient view of the pulpit in the centre. When
+we entered, the church was full even to crowding, the men seated on one
+side, and the women on the other; they almost all had psalm-books lying
+before them; the most profound stillness reigned in the assembly. Near
+the pulpit, which Wilson mounted, was placed a bench for Messrs. Bennet
+and Tyrman, on which I also took my seat.
+
+Notwithstanding the seriousness and devotion apparent among the
+Tahaitians, it is almost impossible for an European, seeing them for the
+first time in their Sunday attire, to refrain from laughter. The high
+value which they set on clothes of our manufacture has already been
+remarked; they are more proud of possessing them than are our ladies of
+diamonds and Persian shawls, or our gentlemen of stars and orders. As
+they know nothing of our fashions, they pay no sort of attention to the
+cut, and even age and wear do not much diminish their estimation of
+their attire; a ripped-out seam, or a hole, is no drawback in the
+elegance of the article. These clothes, which are brought to Tahaiti by
+merchant-ships, are purchased at a rag-market, and sold here at an
+enormous profit. The Tahaitian therefore, finding a complete suit of
+clothes very expensive, contents himself with a single garment; whoever
+can obtain an English military coat, or even a plain one, goes about
+with the rest of his body naked, except the universally-worn girdle; the
+happy owner of a waistcoat or a pair of trowsers, thinks his wardrobe
+amply furnished. Some have nothing more than a shirt, and others, as
+much oppressed by the heat under a heavy cloth mantle as they would be
+in a Russian bath, are far too vain of their finery to lay it aside.
+Shoes, boots, or stockings, are rarely met with, and the coats, mostly
+too tight and too short, make the oddest appearance imaginable; many of
+their wearers can scarcely move their arms, and are forced to stretch
+them out like the sails of a windmill, while their elbows, curious to
+see the world, peep through slits in the seams. Let any one imagine such
+an assembly, perfectly satisfied of the propriety of their costume, and
+wearing, to complete the comic effect, a most ultra-serious expression
+of countenance, and he will easily believe that it was impossible for
+me to be very devout in their presence. The attire of the females,
+though not quite so absurd, was by no means picturesque; some wore
+white, or striped men's shirts, which did not conceal their knees, and
+others were wrapped in sheets. Their hair was cut quite close to the
+roots, according to a fashion introduced by the Missionaries, and their
+heads covered by little European chip hats of a most tasteless form, and
+decorated with ribbons and flowers, made in Tahaiti. But the most
+valuable article of dress was a coloured gown, an indubitable sign of
+the possessor's opulence, and the object of her unbounded vanity.
+
+When Wilson first mounted the pulpit, he bent his head forward, and
+concealing his face with an open Bible, prayed in silence; the whole
+congregation immediately imitated him, using their Psalm-books instead
+of Bibles. After this, the appointed psalm was sung to a most
+incongruous tune, every voice being exerted to its utmost pitch, in
+absolute defiance of harmony. Wilson then read some chapters from the
+Bible, the congregation kneeling twice during the intervals; the
+greater part of them appeared very attentive, and the most decorous
+silence reigned, which was, however, occasionally interrupted by the
+chattering and tittering of some young girls seated behind me. I
+observed that some threatening looks directed towards them by Messrs.
+Bennet and Tyrman, seemed to silence them for a moment, but their
+youthful spirits soon overcoming their fears, the whispering and
+giggling recommenced, and glances were cast at the white stranger, which
+seemed to intimate no unwillingness to commence a closer acquaintance.
+After the conclusion of the sermon, another psalm was sung, and the
+service concluded. The display of costume, as the congregation strolled
+homewards in groups, with the greatest self-complacency, through the
+beautiful broad avenue, their psalm-books under their arms, was still
+more strikingly ludicrous than in church. I had by this time, however,
+lost all inclination to laugh.
+
+I had assisted at a great religious assembly of the new, devoted, so
+called Christian Tahaitians; and the comparison naturally arising in my
+mind, between what I had seen and the descriptions of the early
+travellers, had introduced reflections which became less and less
+agreeable, in proportion as I acquired a greater insight into the recent
+history of the island.
+
+After many fruitless efforts, some English Missionaries succeeded at
+length, in the year 1797, in introducing what they called Christianity
+into Tahaiti, and even in gaining over to their doctrine the King Tajo,
+who then governed the whole island in peace and tranquillity. This
+conversion was a spark thrown into a powder magazine, and was followed
+by a fearful explosion. The Marais were suddenly destroyed by order of
+the King--every memorial of the former worship defaced--the new religion
+forcibly established, and whoever would not adopt it, put to death. With
+the zeal for making proselytes, the rage of tigers took possession of a
+people once so gentle. Streams of blood flowed--whole races were
+exterminated; many resolutely met the death they preferred to the
+renunciation of their ancient faith. Some few escaped by flight to the
+recesses of the lofty mountains, where they still live in seclusion,
+faithful to the gods of their ancestors. Schiller's
+exclamation--"_Furchtbar ist der Mensch in seinem wahn_,"[3] was
+dreadfully confirmed.
+
+Ambition associated itself, as usual, to fanaticism. King Tajo, not
+content with seeing in the remains of his people none but professors of
+the new faith, resolved on making conquests that he might force it on
+the other Society Islands. He had already succeeded with most of them,
+when a young warrior, Pomareh, King of the little island of Tabua, took
+the field against him. What he wanted in numbers was supplied by his
+unexampled valour, and his superiority in the art of war.
+
+He subdued one island after another, and at last Tahaiti itself, and
+having captured its King, offered the zealot murderer of his innocent
+subjects as a sacrifice to their manes. In the end, he subjected to his
+sceptre all the islands which had hitherto remained independent, and as
+sovereign of the whole Archipelago, took up his residence in Tahaiti. He
+left to the conquered Kings the government of their islands, requiring
+from them a yearly tribute in pigs and fruits; and to consolidate his
+dominion by family connexion, he married a daughter of the most powerful
+of these royal vassals, her three sisters, according to an ancient
+custom, becoming at the same time his wives.
+
+Peace was thus restored to Tahaiti and the whole Archipelago. Pomareh
+was a wise and mild ruler. He left his subjects undisturbed in their new
+religion, although he did not profess it himself. The Missionaries, now
+limited to their powers of persuasion, found means to retain their
+disciples in their adopted faith, so that the refugees of the mountains
+preferred remaining in their retreats, to finding themselves objects of
+hatred and contempt amongst their old friends and relations. At length
+Pomareh himself, with his whole family, yielded to the arguments of the
+Missionary Nott, allowed himself to be baptized, and died as a
+Christian, in the prime of life, in consequence of an immoderate
+indulgence in the spirituous liquors which he had obtained from the
+ships of his new brethren.
+
+An unconquerable passion for ardent spirits had acquired an entire
+dominion over him, although he was so well aware of their deleterious
+effects, as to have often exclaimed, when under the influence of
+intoxication, "O King, to-day could thy fat swine govern better than
+thou canst!" This weakness was, however, so much over-balanced by his
+many good qualities, his well-tried valour, his inflexible justice, his
+constant mildness and generosity, that he possessed to the last the
+universal esteem and love of his subjects, by whom his loss was still
+deplored when we arrived at Tahaiti, almost two years after his death,
+although he had reigned as an unlimited monarch, and they now possessed
+a constitution resembling, or rather aping, that of England. This had
+been introduced by the influence of the Missionaries, whose power over
+the minds of the Tahaitians is unbounded; they had persuaded the people
+to adopt it during the minority of Pomareh's son, a child of four years
+old at the period of our visit; but from the general regret with which
+the days of the absolute King were remembered, it did not appear to have
+given much satisfaction.
+
+According to this Constitution, Tahaiti is divided into nineteen
+districts, and the neighbouring island of Eimeo, having no especial
+viceroy, into eight. Every district has its governor and its judge,
+whose business is to settle disputes and maintain order. The first is
+appointed by the Parliament, and the latter elected by the people. These
+nominations are for one year only--but may be renewed at the expiration
+of the term. Important affairs are submitted to the Parliament, which,
+consisting of deputies from all the provinces, possesses the
+legislative, as the King does the executive power.
+
+The Tahaitians, accustomed to a blind reverence for the Missionaries,
+consult them in all their undertakings, and by means of the Constitution
+have so confirmed their power, both as priests and rulers, that it would
+be difficult for governor, judge, or member of parliament, to retain
+their offices after having incurred their displeasure. They have shown
+their artful policy in the choice of a guardian for the young King. It
+has fallen on the tributary King of the island of Balabola,
+distinguished by his giant height of seven feet, and by his enormous
+corpulence, which almost prevents his moving, but by no mental
+qualification.
+
+This mountain of flesh, that at a distance might rather be taken for
+some unknown monster than for a man, naturally finds it more convenient
+to his indolence to be merely the mouthpiece of the Missionaries, and
+that their dominion may also be secured for the future, Mr. Nott has the
+sole charge of the young monarch's education, and will not fail to bring
+him up in the habit of implicit obedience.
+
+The actual document securing the Constitution had not yet appeared; the
+Missionaries were still employed on it, well convinced, that whatever
+they should insert would be received without opposition. When complete,
+it will probably issue in due form from their Printing-Office, and will
+be interesting, if some future traveller should bring us the
+translation.
+
+Firm as the foundation of the Missionaries' power appeared, one little
+cloud was visible in the political firmament. A son of the vanquished
+King Tajo yet existed, and was not entirely without adherents. If by any
+chance he should succeed in gaining possession of the throne, he might
+remember that these men had assisted in excluding him from it. For this
+reason, they resolved to confirm the title of the young Pomareh, by a
+solemn coronation; and to strengthen his party, all the tributary
+princes of the whole Archipelago were invited to be present at the
+ceremony.
+
+The preparations for this solemnity had long been carrying on, and as it
+was now soon to take place, nearly all the kings, with numerous suites,
+had arrived in Tahaiti. Among them was the powerful ruler of Ulietea,
+the grandfather of the infant sovereign; he had brought with him several
+hundred warriors, many of them armed with muskets.
+
+We wished much to have been present at this first coronation of a King
+of the Society Islands; but as our time would not permit it, I obtained
+from Mr. Tyrman an account of the order and plan of the ceremony.
+
+The kings, princes, members of parliament, and other high officers, were
+to assemble at the residence of the Queen, and thence in a regular
+procession, arranged according to their several ranks and dignities, and
+headed by the young King and the Missionaries, to pass to an appointed
+open space, where a throne of stone had been erected, on which the
+little Pomareh was to be seated. The procession was then to form a
+circle round him, and Mr. Tyrman, after making a speech, was to set on
+the King's head a crown, resembling in shape that of England, in which
+country it had been made. A Bible was then to be placed in his hand,
+with the admonition, "According to this Law, thou shall govern thy
+people." Upon this, the train being marshalled as before, the King
+should descend from his throne, and proceed to the church, where, after
+the performance of divine service, he should be anointed. The ceremonies
+should then conclude with a grand banquet.
+
+It is remarkable that the Bible, and not the Act of the Constitution,
+was to be given to the King, as the rule of his government. Was not a
+sly mental reservation perhaps intended by this? If the Constitution
+should not have exactly the effect intended, and the Tahaitians,
+emboldened by it, should seek to withdraw themselves from their
+leading-strings, then might the pupil of Nott, bound to them by no oath,
+come forward to them boldly, and force them back under the yoke of the
+Missionaries; all the while conscientiously obeying the rule of conduct
+which had been delivered to him, according to the interpretation he had
+been taught to put on it.
+
+How this coronation turned out--whether the son of Tajo allowed it to
+pass quietly--whether he has met the fate of many an unfortunate
+European pretender, or survives to become the originator of a civil war,
+which may yet give another destiny to Tahaiti, remains to be learnt from
+the accounts of some future traveller.
+
+Religion and political institutions may raise a nation in a short period
+to a high point of civilization, and they may also serve, as in case of
+the Turks, to retain them in perpetual barbarism. How will these mighty
+powers operate on the Tahaitians? How can they, the qualifications of
+their authors considered!
+
+True, genuine Christianity, and a liberal government, might have soon
+given to this people, endowed by nature with the seeds of every social
+virtue, a rank among civilized nations. Under such a blessed influence,
+the arts and sciences would soon have taken root, the intellect of the
+people would have expanded, and a just estimation of all that is good,
+beautiful, and eternally true, would have refined their manners and
+ennobled their hearts. Europe would soon have admired, perhaps have
+envied Tahaiti: but the religion taught by the Missionaries is not true
+Christianity, though it may possibly comprehend some of its doctrines,
+but half understood even by the teachers themselves. That it was
+established by force, is of itself an evidence against its Christian
+principle. A religion which consists in the eternal repetition of
+prescribed prayers, which forbids every innocent pleasure, and cramps or
+annihilates every mental power, is a libel on the Divine Founder of
+Christianity, the benign Friend of human-kind. It is true, that the
+religion of the Missionaries has, with a great deal of evil, effected
+some good. It has abolished heathen superstitions, and an irrational
+worship, but it has introduced new errors in their stead. It has
+restrained the vices of theft and incontinence, but it has given birth
+to bigotry, hypocrisy, and a hatred and contempt of all other modes of
+faith, which was once foreign to the open and benevolent character of
+the Tahaitian. It has put and end to avowed human sacrifices, but many
+more human beings have been actually sacrificed to it, than ever were to
+their heathen gods.
+
+The elder Forster estimated, as we have already seen, the population of
+Tahaiti at one hundred and thirty thousand souls. Allowing that he
+over-calculated it, by even as much as fifty thousand, still eighty
+thousand remained:--the present population amounts to only eight
+thousand; so that nine-tenths must have disappeared. The diseases
+introduced by the ardent spirits, the manufacture of Europe and America,
+may, indeed, have much increased the mortality, but they are also known
+in many islands in the South Seas, without having caused any perceptible
+diminution in the population. It is not known that plague of any kind
+has ever raged here: it was, therefore, the bloody persecution
+instigated by the Missionaries which performed the office of a
+desolating infection. I really believe that these pious people were
+themselves shocked at the consequences of their zeal; but they soon
+consoled themselves; and have ever since continued to watch with the
+most vigilant severity over the maintenance of every article of their
+faith. Hence, among the remains of these murdered people, their former
+admirable industry, and their joyous buoyancy of spirits, have been
+changed for continual praying, and meditating upon things which the
+teachers understand as little as the taught.
+
+The Tahaitians of the present day hardly know how to plait their mats,
+make their paper stuffs, or cultivate a few roots. They content
+themselves with the bread-fruit, which the soil yields spontaneously in
+quantities more than sufficient for their reduced population. Their
+navy, which excited the astonishment of Europeans, has entirely
+disappeared. They build no vessels but a few little paltry canoes, with
+which they fish off the neighbouring coral islands, and make their
+longest voyages in American and European boats which they have
+purchased. With the method of producing those commodities of civilized
+nations which they prize so highly, they are still as much as ever
+unacquainted. They possess sheep, and excellent cotton; but no
+spinning-wheel, no loom, has yet been set in motion among them; they
+choose rather to buy their cloth and cotton of foreigners for real gold
+and pearls; one of our sailors sold an old shirt for five piastres.
+Horses and cattle have been brought to them, but the few that remain
+have fallen into the possession of strangers, and have become so scarce,
+that one hundred piastres was asked for an ox, that we wanted in
+provisioning the ship. The Queen alone possesses a pair of horses, but
+she never uses them. The island contains but one smith, though the
+assistance of the forge and bellows would be so useful in repairing the
+iron tools which have superseded those of stone formerly in use. It is
+extraordinary that even the foreigners established here carry on no kind
+of mechanical trade. Can it be that the Missionaries object to it? It is
+certain that they possess great influence even over the settlers. An
+American, however, was planning the introduction of a sugar
+manufactory, and promised himself great profit from it.
+
+By order of the Missionaries, the flute, which once awakened innocent
+pleasure, is heard no more. No music but that of the psalms is suffered
+in Tahaiti: dancing, mock-fights, and dramatic representations are no
+longer permitted. Every pleasure is punished as a sin, among a people
+whom Nature destined to the most cheerful enjoyment. One of our friends
+having begun to sing for joy over a present he had received, was
+immediately asked by his comrades, with great terror, what he thought
+would be the consequence, should the Missionaries hear of it.
+
+It is remarkable that the degenerate Tahaitians are no longer even in
+person such as they are described by the early travellers. Their
+religion appears to have had an effect inimical to their beauty. The
+large-grown Yeris, solely employed in praying, eating, and sleeping, are
+all, men and women, excessively fat even in early youth. The smaller
+common people, constrained to some degree of industry, look plump and
+well fed, but not so swollen as their superiors, and more fine forms
+are therefore to be seen among them than among the Yeris: the latter
+also frequently suffer under a most disfiguring disease caused by want
+of exercise and excess of nourishment: the legs swell to such a degree
+from the knees downward, that the form of the calf and foot is entirely
+lost, and the thick cylinders which usurp the place of legs, and from
+under which the toes only project, resemble nothing but the legs of
+elephants; thence the name of elephantism has been bestowed on the
+complaint by Europeans. It does not appear to cause much pain.
+
+The men of both classes shave the beard, and both sexes cut their hair
+so close, that the skin can be seen under it; a fashion ugly enough for
+any face, but especially so with their brown complexions, as it gives
+them an ape-like appearance. As, however, a compliance with this custom,
+is a mark of Christianity, and the heathen fugitives to the mountains
+have retained their long hair, even the young females are proud of thus
+disfiguring themselves.
+
+All vanity is sin, and all care of the person is vanity. Hence the fat
+Yeri beauties no longer shelter their skins from the burning rays of
+the sun, and are become as brown as the rest. All the graces have
+departed from them; their fascinating smiles have vanished; and the
+rancid cocoa-oil with which they smear themselves may be smelt at many
+paces distance. In short, either the picture drawn of them by the early
+travellers was a monstrous flattery, or they are altogether different
+from what they were. I saw but one handsome girl at Tahaiti; she was the
+sister of the little King, only fourteen years old, and already the
+bride of her uncle, the Prince of Ulietea. The men far surpass the women
+both in form and feature.
+
+The Missionaries have abolished the custom of tattooing, and so far at
+least spared the Tahaitians some useless torment. These marks are now
+only to be seen on people of the middle age and upwards--never on the
+young. The first voyagers who visited this island, describe the
+tattooing as representing half-moons, birds, and irregular or zig-zag
+lines; but on a better acquaintance with Europeans, the fashion changed,
+and drawings of our tools, animals, and even compasses and mathematical
+instruments, were executed with the greatest exactness on their bodies.
+Pantaloons being articles in particular request among them, he who could
+not obtain a pair, comforted himself by having the representation of
+them etched on his legs. Many of these are still to be seen.
+
+We much wished to have had an opportunity of comparing the _soi-disant_
+Christian Tahaitians, with the heathen inhabitants of the mountains; but
+it would have taken too much time to seek them out in their retreats,
+which they leave only at night for the purpose of robbing the dwellers
+in the valleys, among whom they dare not appear in the day.
+
+If the religion of the Missionaries has neither tended to enlighten the
+Tahaitians nor to render them happy, just as little can be expected from
+the Constitution founded upon it, which seems adapted only to draw yet
+tighter the bonds in which this amiable people are held by their zealous
+converters, and to retain them wholly under their authority.
+
+By the influence of Wilson, a small house situated on Cape Venus was
+cleared for our astronomical observations: we were told it stood
+precisely on the same spot where Cook's Observatory had formerly been
+erected. As a particular favour from the Government, I was also
+accommodated with a royal pleasure-house in its neighbourhood for my
+private residence. This very large building, which resembled an ancient
+temple in appearance, had been a favourite abode of the deceased monarch
+Pomareh, and since his death had remained uninhabited, out of respect
+for his memory. A number of utensils which had belonged to him, and a
+canoe, on which he had obtained many splendid victories, were still
+preserved here as memorials of the beloved king. The house was wholly
+without walls--the roof of leaves resting on numerous pillars; a mode of
+construction extremely well adapted to this warm and dry climate. The
+environs were very beautiful: high trees covered with thickest foliage
+invited to repose under their shadows, and a brook clear as crystal
+offered an inviting bath. The air was filled with the perfume of a
+neighbouring orange-grove, which scattered its fruit upon the earth. The
+lemons and oranges, which we found delicious, the Tahaitians despised as
+too common. Since I could only afford to remain a very short time at
+Tahaiti, Dr. Eschscholz and myself immediately took possession of my new
+abode, and erected our little observatory. After a long, wearisome
+voyage, I cannot express the delight I experienced in reposing amidst
+such enchanting scenes of natural beauty. We passed a charming evening,
+and a most refreshing night under our roof of leaves.
+
+In the morning, as we were drinking our coffee and smoking our pipes,
+while laying the plan of our observations so as to employ our short time
+to the best advantage, a messenger arrived from the Queen requesting to
+speak with me.
+
+I desired he might be admitted, and a giant Yen strode proudly in,
+accompanied by our pilot as interpreter. His only garment, with the
+exception of the girdle always worn by the men, was an old worn-out
+sand-coloured coat, with great shining buttons, in the fashion of the
+last century, and so much too small for its present possessor, that he
+could not button it, while his naked arms stuck out more than a quarter
+of a yard below the sleeves. His bald head was covered by a red
+night-cap, which, to show his knowledge of the customs of civilized
+nations, he raised a little on his entrance.
+
+He uttered, as he came towards me, the word Jorona (good day), stretched
+out his great hand to me, and then, without waiting for my invitation,
+seated himself on the ground close to my feet, with his legs crossed in
+the Turkish fashion. The Queen had sent him to inform me, that she was
+curious to see the Commander of a Russian frigate, and would gladly have
+entertained me at her court; but as she feared I would not absent myself
+so long from Matarai, she had resolved to pay me a visit accompanied by
+the whole Royal Family. The ambassador added, that these exalted
+personages, who had travelled by water, would soon arrive, and that he
+must hasten to receive them; then rising, he pressed my hand, repeated
+his jorona, touched his night-cap, and disappeared.
+
+I had scarcely time to prepare for the reception of my illustrious
+guests, when the concourse of people hastening to the shore announced
+their approach. A man soon appeared as _avant courier_, in the short,
+red uniform-jacket of an English drummer, an uncommonly showy,
+many-coloured girdle, and the rest of his body, according to custom,
+quite naked. His legs were adorned by a tattooed representation of
+pantaloons; and when he turned his back and stooped very little, he
+showed also a drawing of a large compass, with all the two-and-thirty
+points executed with striking exactness. In his hand he held a rusty
+broad-sword, and on his head was proudly displayed an old torn
+three-cornered hat, with a long red feather. Our interpreter described
+him as the royal Master of the Ceremonies; but it afterwards appeared,
+that though not apparently belonging to the Yens, but to the smaller
+race, he held several other offices in conjunction with this--those of
+cook and chamberlain, for example: his talent, however, seemed most to
+incline to that of court-fool or harlequin.
+
+In all his motions, gestures and grimaces, he displayed so singular a
+vivacity, that he might have been considered insane. Without the least
+ceremony, or paying the slightest attention to me, he took possession of
+my whole house. Several servants, in the livery of nature, followed him
+with the various articles necessary to the convenience of the Royal
+visitors. He immediately ordered that the whole floor should be covered
+with matting, and had every thing placed as he thought proper, leaping
+about all the while with both feet in the air, as if his life depended
+on the velocity of his motions. No one of the servants pleased him; his
+tongue ran incessantly; and his sword was flourished about in all
+directions.
+
+His preparations were not yet complete, when we saw a long procession of
+Tahaitians approach, two and two, bearing on their shoulders various
+kinds of provisions fastened on bamboo poles. This set our caperer upon
+increased activity. Two or three springs having carried him out of the
+house, he commanded the bearers to set down their burdens, which were
+presents from the Queen to me, in a certain order, in front of my
+dwelling. Three large pigs formed the right flank; and opposite to them
+were piled potatoes, yams, sweet potatoes, and all kinds of delicious
+fruit. When the Master of the Ceremonies had arranged them all to his
+satisfaction, he turned, for the first time, to me, and endeavoured,
+with many comical pantomimic gestures, to make me understand that all
+were mine. At length the Queen herself appeared, followed by a numerous
+train of attendants. She walked first, carrying the little King in her
+arms, and holding her daughter, the betrothed of the Prince of Ulietea,
+by the hand. After her came her three sisters, all like herself, large
+fat women, and then the whole crowd of the Court. The rear was brought
+up by a multitude of people of the lower class, bearing viands for the
+Royal entertainment, in utensils made of various kinds of gourds. Among
+the dainties was a live pig, which squeaking and grunting in
+anticipation of its fate, supplied to this orderly procession the
+absence of a musical band.
+
+The Queen and her three sisters were wrapped in sheets; and their straw
+hats still bore streamers of black crape, as signs of mourning for the
+late King. The little Pomareh, a pretty, lively boy, was dressed quite
+in the European fashion, in a jacket and trowsers of bombasin; he wore a
+round hat, but his feet, like those of all the other Tahaitians, were
+bare. They object that any kind of shoe hinders their walking. The
+young bride, a handsome girl, as I have before said, was very lightly
+clad in a short striped shirt, without any covering on her head. The
+giant Yeris who formed the Court, mostly wore white shirts, and round
+straw hats with black ribbons.
+
+It was the first time, since the death of her consort, that the Queen
+had entered these precincts, and a shower of tears fell from her eyes at
+the remembrance of the past. The whole court, as in duty bound, was also
+immediately dissolved in grief; but this sorrowful mood did not last
+long; their faces gradually cleared up--the Queen dried her tears, and
+greeted me kindly. The Master of the Ceremonies then conducted the Royal
+Family to the best mats, on which they sat down in the Asiatic fashion.
+One of my chairs was placed opposite the Royal Family, and I was invited
+to take my seat. In the mean time, the Master of the Ceremonies had
+vanished to prepare the repast.
+
+When the Queen, after surveying me from head to foot, had communicated
+her remarks and opinions to the company, I requested the interpreter to
+thank her, in my name, for my friendly reception on the island--for the
+presents she had made me, and for the high honour conferred on me in
+this visit. She received my thanks very graciously, and ordered some
+questions to be put me, which I answered with all due respect. She
+inquired how old I was?--whether my voyage had been long?--whether I was
+a Christian?--and how often I prayed _daily_? This last question
+afforded me an opportunity, had I thought fit, to give her Majesty some
+new ideas on the subject of the Missionary religion; but I did not feel
+myself quite capable of entering into a theological dispute, and
+therefore merely replied, that Christianity taught us, that we should be
+judged according to our actions rather than the number of our prayers. I
+do not know how the interpreter rendered my answer, or whether the Queen
+considered me as a heretic, but this I conjectured, from her speaking no
+more on religious subjects, and asking me, in order to change the
+conversation, whether the earth were really round? I assured her Majesty
+that I could answer from my own experience, as I was now sailing round
+it for the third time. This appeared to excite some astonishment; but
+my assertion concerning its spherical form still gained but small
+credit.
+
+I then produced some presents for the Queen, her family, and their
+immediate attendants, which, though in themselves extremely trifling,
+were received with great pleasure, and produced a degree of hilarity
+little consistent with the symbols of mourning worn by the Royal party,
+or the feelings they had displayed on their first arrival.
+
+To the Queen I presented a piece of calico four or five yards long, a
+coloured silk handkerchief, a small looking-glass, a pair of scissors,
+and some glass beads; to the young Princess, a silk handkerchief, beads,
+and a looking-glass; to the sisters of the Queen, cotton handkerchiefs,
+glasses, and scissors; their attendants, among whom were four ladies,
+were content with knives.
+
+During this time the Master of the Ceremonies had killed the pig, and
+baked it in the earth in the Tahaitian manner. As soon as the Royal
+Family had resumed their seats he brought it in, and placed it before
+the Queen, on a great banana-leaf, other servants spreading yams,
+potatoes, and bread-fruit upon the ground. My chair was brought and
+placed opposite to the Queen, who invited me, with much friendliness, to
+partake of the meal. I preferred, however, being an idle spectator, for
+it was still very early in the day, and I had no appetite. When all the
+provisions were brought in, the Master of the Ceremonies made a leap
+into the air, flourished his rusty broad-sword, and then repeated a loud
+prayer. All the company hung down their heads, and prayed with him in
+silence. The prayer being concluded, the Master of the Ceremonies seized
+the baked pig by the hind-legs and tore it in two; then, having carved
+the whole with his broad-sword, laid a tolerably large portion on leaves
+before each member of the Royal Family, who immediately attacked it with
+a good appetite, helping themselves with fingers and teeth, instead of
+knife and fork. During the repast, the suite ate nothing, but remained
+looking on, and I did not perceive that they were indemnified for their
+abstinence, even when the residue of the feast was carried out. When the
+repast was over, and a prayer said as before, the Royal personages
+washed their hands with water, and their mouths with cocoa-milk, and
+then lay down altogether to sleep; the attendants retiring. I offered to
+her Majesty the use of my bed, which she condescendingly accepted; and
+during the siesta, I returned to my plans for our astronomical
+observations. On awaking, the Queen expressed a wish to see my frigate;
+my time was not at my own disposal, but I entrusted to one of my
+officers the charge of doing the honours of the ship to our Royal
+guests, as well as circumstances would permit. On leaving me, the Queen
+pressed my hand in the most friendly manner, and repeated her jorona
+several times; her whole train followed her.
+
+On the strand, according to the account of my officer, the canoes lay in
+readiness for the excursion. The Queen, accompanied by her family and
+our officer, put off in her own European boat; the Master of the
+Ceremonies took his station in the fore-part of the boat, turning his
+compass to the company, and continued, during the passage, his
+ridiculous harlequinades with his limbs and broad-sword, as if he had
+been afflicted with Saint Vitus's dance. When they reached the frigate,
+the deck was already occupied by Tahaitians, carrying on their trading
+with so much eagerness and noise, that scarcely a word could be
+distinguished. The vessel was also surrounded by a crowd of canoes
+filled with all kinds of wares for barter; and so little attention was
+paid to the Royal Family, that it was with much difficulty our people
+could clear the way for their boat. Nor did the presence of these high
+personages attract much more notice when they had climbed the deck;
+their subjects continued to drive their bargains without interruption,
+and scarcely vouchsafed the slightest salutation. Very different would
+have been their conduct on the arrival of a Missionary. The Queen was
+probably hurt by this neglect, for she went directly into my cabin,
+followed by her family, and remained there till she quitted the ship.
+The construction of the vessel was not likely to excite her curiosity,
+as she was herself the owner of a well-built English merchant ship.
+
+The goods in the cabin, however, delighted the ladies, who admired and
+wanted every thing; nor was it easy to convince them, that each article
+they coveted was indispensable to our convenience.
+
+The officers exerted themselves to maintain the good-humour of their
+guests by trifling presents, and, amongst other things, gave them a
+piece of sham gold-lace, several yards in length, which was received
+with extraordinary eagerness. The Royal sisters divided it between them,
+and added it to the black crape trimming of their hats; and so great was
+the admiration excited by this novel article of finery, that the rage
+for gold-lace became an absolute fever among the more distinguished
+Tahaitian ladies. Vain now proved the severe lessons of the
+Missionaries, forbidding all adornment of the person. There was no end
+to petitions for lace, and the more our store of it diminished, the more
+highly did they value the smallest piece they could obtain. The
+tormented husbands came every day to the ship, willingly offering a fine
+fat pig and eight fowls for half an ell of the false lace, to satisfy
+the longings of their wives. They beset me incessantly in my dwelling
+on shore, for this new and invaluable appendage of luxury; and were
+astonished beyond measure, that I, the commander, should possess none of
+it. The ladies who finally were unsuccessful in procuring the means of
+imitating a fashion thus accidentally introduced by the Royal sisters,
+_tout comme chez-nous_, actually fell ill and gave themselves up to the
+boundless lamentations of despair.
+
+While the Royal Family remained below in the cabin, their attendants
+were engaged on deck in purchasing from our sailors all sorts of old
+clothes for a hundred times their value, in Spanish piastres. The
+Tahaitians have yet no notion of the value of money, which they get from
+the ships that touch at the island, and by their trade in cocoa-oil with
+New Holland.
+
+The Missionaries have done their utmost to draw money into the country,
+and for this purpose have fixed prices on every article of provision,
+under which no one dares to sell them to foreign ships. These prices
+are, however, so high that nothing but necessity would induce any one to
+pay them, so that the ships in general rather provide themselves with
+old clothes, utensils of various kinds, and toys, which enable them to
+make most advantageous barters, and frequently even to bring away money.
+The plan of the Missionaries, therefore, like many other financial
+regulations, has been found in operation to produce a result directly
+contrary to the effect intended.
+
+During the visit to my vessel, the young Princess had found an
+opportunity to bargain with a sailor for a sheet; having secured this
+treasure, she ran with it upon deck in the most extravagant joy, viewed
+it over and over with delight, and there formed it into a really very
+becoming drapery. She appeared quite conscious of her increased
+attractions in this attire, leaped about in the most sprightly manner,
+and called on all the persons of the Court to admire her. In short, a
+young European lady on first decorating herself with the most costly
+Persian shawl, would not have been half so happy as this young Princess
+dressed in the sailor's sheet.
+
+At four o'clock, the dinner was served to our guests and their suite,
+entirely in the Russian mode; except the etiquette of placing the Royal
+Family a little apart from the rest of the company. The infant King had
+long before begun to cry from weariness, and had been carried back into
+the boat, where he had quietly fallen asleep. A prayer was repeated
+before and after dinner. The visitors seemed to think our dishes very
+palatable, and even the Royal Family ate with good appetite, though they
+had so recently made a substantial meal. Their conduct was extremely
+decorous, and showed much aptitude in imitation. They made use of the
+knives, forks, and spoons as readily as if they had been always
+accustomed to them; and the wine, though by no means despised, was very
+moderately enjoyed.
+
+After dinner a general conversation took place, in which a man of
+seventy years of age distinguished himself by his animation and
+intelligence. He was the only individual present who had personally
+known Captain Cook. He asserted that he had been his particular friend,
+and for this reason still bore his name, which he pronounced quite
+correctly, although there is neither a C nor K in the Tahaitian
+alphabet. He boasted not a little of having accompanied Cook in his
+coasting voyages about the islands, and of having often slept in the
+same tent with him. He knew the names of all Cook's company, and could
+recollect the particular pursuits of each officer. To describe the
+manner in which Cook had observed the height of the sun, he asked for a
+sextant, placed himself in a stooping position, and looking fixedly upon
+an angle, often called with a loud voice, Stop!
+
+He could relate the Bible-history in short extracts, from the Creation
+to the birth of Christ; and in order to explain the doctrine of the
+Trinity, he held up three fingers, pressed them together, and looked
+towards the Heavens. The old Cook (as he called himself,) was not
+entirely ignorant of geography. He said he possessed a map presented to
+him by his friend;--that England was an island, and much smaller than
+Russia; and traced out, on a map of the World being opened before him,
+the way by which we had come to Tahaiti.
+
+At sunset our Royal visitants departed, highly gratified with their
+entertainment, and returned to the capital. This visit being over, I
+hoped to be at liberty to pursue my occupations in peace, but in this I
+was disappointed. Though my habitation was surrounded by sentinels, I
+was continually disturbed by swarms of curious islanders, who,
+troublesome as they were, were yet so gentle and good-tempered that it
+was impossible to be angry with them. They were particularly pleased
+with Dr. Eschscholz's little museum, and took pains to collect from
+every corner of the island, butterflies, beetles, birds, and marine
+productions, by way of showing their sense of the kindness with which he
+exhibited his treasures, often receiving from him in return some
+trifling present, which they considered of great value. One of them was
+fairly overpowered with gratitude by the gift of an old coat. With much
+admiration of such profuse generosity, and many expressions of rapture,
+he at length succeeded in cramming his large body into the garment of
+the infinitely smaller and more slender philosopher, and strutted about
+with his back hunched up, and his arms sticking out, envied by all his
+acquaintances for the magnificence of his attire.
+
+Though the vice of theft has certainly greatly diminished among the
+Tahaitians, they cannot always refrain from endeavouring to appropriate
+the articles they prize so highly. For instance, I think if any one of
+the Tahaitian ladies had found an opportunity of stealing a bit of the
+mock gold lace, the temptation would have been too great to withstand.
+Every theft however is, on discovery, punished without distinction of
+persons, and the criminal, on conviction, is generally sentenced to work
+on the highway. A road has been made round the island, on which those
+who have committed great transgressions, are condemned to labour; but it
+is probable that neglect of prayer, or any trifling offence against the
+Missionaries, would also entail this punishment upon them.
+
+We had an opportunity of observing the severity with which theft is
+punished. A complaisant husband could not resist the entreaties of his
+wife, who longed for one of our sheets. One day, when the sailors were
+washing in the river, he took an opportunity, unperceived as he thought,
+to snatch up one of these coveted articles and run off with it. Some of
+his countrymen, who had watched him, directly brought him back, bound
+him to a tree, and informed me and a Missionary of the circumstance. On
+reaching the spot, I already found the Judge of the district and the
+Missionaries Wilson and Tyrman standing beside the thief, who was still
+bound to the tree. Mr. Tyrman, who was especially bitter, could not
+refrain from abuse: he called the criminal a brute, who was not worthy
+to be treated as a human creature, and acted altogether as if the affair
+were his. This would have surprised me, as the judge of the district was
+present, and Mr. Tyrman had no official appointment on the island, but
+he was a member of the Missionary Society,--_et tout est dit_. I was now
+asked if I wished the offender to be whipped, as he had not the means of
+paying the forfeit of three pigs to the person robbed, which the law
+demands, in addition to the punishment of ignominious labour. I forgave
+him the equivalent for the pigs, and begged that he might be dismissed
+with a severe admonition upon the disgrace of theft, and an earnest
+warning for the future. This request, however, was not granted, and the
+unfortunate offender was taken away, still tied, to work on the highway:
+the Judge and Mr. Wilson concurred in assuring me that he was not a
+Tahaitian, but an inhabitant of another island, who had come hither with
+one of the tributary kings, and declared that a Tahaitian would not have
+stolen the sheet. The only article which we lost besides this, was an
+iron hoop from a barrel, and as the thief was not discovered, it
+remained undecided whether their assertion was well-grounded or not. At
+all events, it appears certain that thefts do not take place oftener
+than among civilized nations.
+
+With the chastity of the Tahaitian women, the case is similar; and it
+does not appear to me that the breaches of this virtue are more frequent
+on the whole than in Europe. It was with the utmost caution and secrecy,
+and in the most fearful anxiety lest their errors should be betrayed to
+the Missionaries, that the females complied with the desires of our
+sailors. An accidental occurrence proved that their terrors were not
+groundless. A married man who possessed a house of his own, was induced
+to barter, according to the custom of his ancestors, the favours of his
+wife for some pieces of iron: he had also assisted a young man in an
+intrigue with a woman whose husband was not so complaisant, by lending
+his house as a place of rendezvous. Suddenly the owner and his wife
+disappeared in the night, the house was found empty next morning, and we
+could never learn what had become of its proprietors. Have the
+Missionaries already introduced the _Oubliettes_?
+
+Having occasion one morning to visit Wilson on business, I found his
+door, which usually stood open, closed and fastened: I knocked several
+times; but the whole house seemed buried in the repose of death: at
+length, after loud and repeated strokes, the door was opened by Wilson,
+whose cheeks bedewed with tears made me apprehensive that some great
+calamity had befallen him; I was however soon satisfied that devotion
+alone had caused this emotion. In an ante-room I found four or five
+naked Tahaitians, of the highest rank, as Wilson told me, on their knees
+reading the Bible. Having apologized for what appeared to be an
+unseasonable intrusion, I was about to retire, but was invited by
+Wilson, in a friendly manner, into the inner apartment, where I found
+his whole family, with Messrs. Bennet and Tyrman, kneeling round a
+breakfast-table, on which coffee and various kinds of meat were
+arranged. Tyrman was praying aloud, the rest silently joining him. He
+thanked God for the progress the Missionaries had made in spreading
+Christianity. How willingly would I have concurred in his thanksgiving,
+had the religion they taught been true, genuine Christianity, propitious
+to human virtue and human happiness.
+
+The prayer lasted yet a quarter of an hour; on its conclusion, the
+company rose and breakfasted with a good appetite; but offered nothing
+to the distinguished personages in the other apartment, who were
+suffered to leave the house unnoticed.
+
+I found the bread-fruit, as baked in the ovens by the Europeans here,
+excellent. The natives retain their old custom of baking in the earth.
+
+During breakfast, Wilson related the difficulties he had encountered in
+the conversion of the Tahaitians. They would not allow that his faith
+was superior to their own; and when he appealed to the miracles which
+confirmed the truth of the Christian doctrine, they required that he
+also should restore sight to the blind and raise the dead to life; the
+confession of his inability was met with derision, and for many years he
+gained no disciples. How different, in all probability, would the effect
+have proved, had he, instead of the miraculous history of his religion,
+directed the attention of the susceptible Tahaitians to its pure
+morality, leading so naturally to the idea of a common Father, and a
+fellowship of charity. O, ye Missionaries, how much blood might ye not
+have spared!
+
+I received another visit from the Royal Family, accompanied this time by
+many of the Vice-Kings then in Tahaiti, with their consorts. Among them
+was the grandfather of the little monarch Pomareh the Second. After some
+preliminaries, my illustrious guests unanimously preferred a request in
+the most modest, yet pressing manner. They wished me to get a pair of
+boots made for the little King. His coronation, they said, would soon
+take place, and they did not think it decorous, on so solemn an
+occasion, for the Sovereign of all the Society Islands to sit barefooted
+on his throne.
+
+I immediately ordered my shoemaker to provide for the Royal necessity;
+the measure was taken, and my complaisance rewarded by the gratitude of
+the whole company. At this visit, also, the guests ate and slept. I took
+advantage of this opportunity to observe the method of preparing the
+pig, always the chief dish in their feasts. A sufficiently large round
+hole was dug in the earth, and filled with stones. A fire was then
+lighted in it, and kept burning till the stones were red-hot, when the
+ashes and cinders were taken out, and the stones covered with large
+banana-leaves, upon which the pig was laid, after being thoroughly
+cleaned, and stuffed with the glowing stones; more leaves were spread
+upon it, and covered with hot stones, and finally, the hole was filled
+up with earth. After a certain time it was taken out, and proved a more
+tender and delicate roast, than the best European cook could have
+produced. They dress their vegetables in the same manner, and the
+flavour is excellent; the bread-fruit, only, I preferred as baked in
+Wilson's European oven.
+
+[Illustration: PLAN OF MATTAWAY BAY AND VILLAGE]
+
+Matarai Bay is rich in finely flavoured fish, of various, sometimes
+extraordinary form, and beautiful colours. The Tahaitians eat them
+raw, or only steeped in sea-water. Their fishing-tackle consists of
+nothing more than bad angling lines and hooks; to make nets as their
+forefathers did, would trespass too much upon the time they are obliged
+to spend in prayer. Hence fish is so great a rarity to them, that their
+eager desire for it sometimes prompts them to belie their good
+character, of which we had an example. One of our large nets having
+brought up a multitude of fine fish, the temptation was too strong to be
+resisted, and our friends would have forcibly shared our acquisition
+with us, had not our severe reproof, and the accidental appearance of
+the judge of the district, restrained them. They then tried to obtain
+the fish by barter, and offered their most valuable tools for the
+smallest and worst of them; I gave them, however, so many, that for once
+their appetite was fully satisfied with a luxurious repast.
+
+I had heard much of an institution established by the Missionaries for
+the instruction of the people, and was desirous to learn what progress
+the Tahaitians had made in the rudiments of science. Being informed
+that the lessons commenced at sunrise, the first rays of that luminary
+found me one morning at the school-house, as I conceived the simple
+structure before me to be. Its walls were formed of bamboo canes,
+erected singly, at sufficient distances to admit the refreshing breeze
+from all sides, and supporting a good roof. The interior was one
+spacious quadrangular apartment, provided with benches, and raised seats
+for the teachers.
+
+I had not waited long before the pupils of both sexes entered. They were
+not lively children, nor youths, whom ardour for the acquisition of
+knowledge led to the seat of instruction, but adults and aged persons,
+who crept slowly in with downcast looks, and prayer-books under their
+arms. When they were all assembled and seated on the benches, a Psalm
+was sung; a Tahaitian then rose, placed himself on an elevated bench,
+and read a chapter from the Bible. After this they sang again, and then
+knelt with their backs to the reader, who, also kneeling, repeated with
+closed eyes a long prayer. At its conclusion, the orator resigned his
+place to another Tahaitian, when the whole ceremony commenced anew;
+another Psalm, another chapter, and another prayer were sung and said;
+again and again, as I understood, a fresh performer repeated the
+wearisome exercise; but my patience was exhausted, and, at the second
+course, with depressed spirits and painful impressions, I left the
+assembly.
+
+Several such meetings are established in different parts of the island,
+but no schools of a different character. The children are taught a
+little reading and writing in their parents' houses, and beyond this,
+knowledge is mischievous. It is true, that most of the Missionaries are
+incapable of communicating further instruction; but the opinion that it
+is easier to govern an ignorant than a well-educated community, seems
+here, as elsewhere, to form a fundamental principle of policy.
+
+To pray and to obey are the only commands laid upon an oppressed people,
+who submissively bow to the yoke, and even suffer themselves to be
+driven to prayers by the cudgel!
+
+A police-officer is especially appointed to enforce the prescribed
+attendance upon the church and prayer-meetings. I saw him in the
+exercise of his functions, armed with a bamboo-cane, driving his herd to
+the spiritual pasture. He seemed himself to be conscious of the
+burlesque attaching to his office,--at least he behaved very absurdly in
+it, and many a stroke fell rather in jest than in earnest. The drollery
+of the driver did not, however, enliven the dejected countenances of his
+flock.
+
+In the prayer-house, which at first, in my simplicity, I had taken for a
+school, no Missionary was present. The assembly consisting, except
+myself, of natives only, though tolerably quiet, was not so profoundly
+silent as at church. I endeavoured to read in the countenances of those
+around me, what might be the thoughts which at the moment occupied their
+minds, and few were the eyes which did not, as they passed muster, speak
+of other matter than devotion and the Bible. Most of them appeared
+engaged in very profane speculations: friendly glances occasionally
+interchanged, betrayed the hopes of the younger devotees; while many a
+stately Yeri was probably considering by what means he should procure
+from my ship's-company an old waistcoat, or a pair of torn pantaloons
+in which he might appear with suitable dignity at the approaching
+coronation; and among the ladies, some might be weighing the pleasure of
+possessing a sailor's sheet, against the risks they must run to obtain
+it.
+
+Exactly facing me was seated a fair one most becomingly enveloped in
+this envied habiliment, and enjoying with modest complacency, but
+visible triumph, the admiration with which the eyes of her country-women
+were fixed upon her garment.
+
+I had heard from the Missionaries many wonderful accounts of the Lake
+Wahiria, situated among the mountains which rise in the centre of the
+northern peninsula. They had themselves never seen it, and considered it
+almost impossible for an European to reach it; even the boldest
+Tahaitians rarely visit it; and a saying is current in the island, that
+it is inhabited by an evil demon. Its depth they report to be
+unfathomable, and cannot conceive from what cause this huge body of
+water can be stationary at so great a height.
+
+Mr. Hoffman, our mineralogist, an active young man, resolved to
+undertake this expedition, accompanied by three Tahaitians:--Maititi,
+who on our arrival had concluded a treaty of friendship with him, and
+adopted the name of Hoffman; Tauru, a respectable elderly man; and
+Teiraro, a brisk and lively young fellow. The two latter could write
+their own names. At first they raised many objections, assuring him that
+the journey, at all times difficult, was now dangerous from the waters
+being swollen by the rains; however, a shirt promised to each of them
+overcame all these obstacles, and the travellers set out at mid-day in
+excellent spirits. Maititi, a soldier in the royal Tahaitian army, bore
+the insignia of his rank in a musket, to which nothing but the lock was
+wanting, and a cartouche-box without powder. He had learnt a few English
+words, and, by their help, advised Mr. Hoffman to carry with him some
+presents for his countrymen: for he observed, that though hospitality
+and the consequence attaching to the stranger's appearance would secure
+him a good reception, it was desirable that a man with whom he had
+united himself in the bonds of friendship, should also command respect
+by his liberality.
+
+They travelled on a broad fine path through forests of fruit trees, and
+several villages, and considered the population of this district to
+exceed that in the neighbourhood of Matarai. In the country of Weijoride
+they began to climb the mountains, and soon entered a charming valley
+stretching to the south-southwest, and enclosed by high steep rocks,
+basaltic, like those of Matarai. Down their precipitous sides clothed
+with the richest green rushed innumerable streamlets to swell the
+largest and most rapid rivulet on the island, which watered the whole
+extent of this luxuriant valley. Here the cocoa, palm, and the
+bread-fruit tree disappear, but bananas and oranges flourishing wild,
+produce finer and more juicy fruit than our best hot-houses.
+
+A few scattered huts raised on the margin of the little river, gave
+tokens of human habitation. In one of these, occupied by an old married
+pair, our travellers passed the first night. Maititi seemed to consider
+himself quite on a foraging party, and Mr. Hoffman was under the
+necessity of begging him to moderate his zeal, and leave the care of the
+entertainment to their host. The old man fetched a pig, and Maititi,
+with great dexterity, played the part both of butcher and cook. Mr.
+Hoffman describes the operation of lighting the fire on this occasion,
+in the following manner:--A Tahaitian took two pieces of wood of
+different degrees of hardness, laid the softer upon the ground, and very
+rapidly rubbed its length backwards and forwards with the harder. This
+made a furrow, in which the dust rubbed from the wood collected, and
+soon became hot; it was then shaken among dry leaves and burst into a
+flame. The whole process seemed easy and quick; but Mr. Hoffman could
+not succeed in it though he made many attempts. Before supper, the
+master of the house recited a prayer aloud, the family repeating it
+after him, but not audibly. They then ate a hearty but silent meal, and
+prayed again before lying down to sleep. The couch offered to Mr.
+Hoffman was a raised platform in the hut, thickly spread with mats, with
+a pair of sheets of the Tahaitian manufacture, called Tapa, for its
+covering.
+
+The volubility of his guides, restrained during the repast by the more
+important business of satisfying their appetites, now broke out to his
+great disturbance. They chattered almost incessantly during great part
+of the night with the host, whom they were probably entertaining with an
+account of our ship, which he had not yet visited, and of their
+intercourse with us. Mr. Hoffman, on taking leave in the morning, gave
+his host a knife, an important present, which the old man received very
+gratefully, as far exceeding his expectations.
+
+The valley as they proceeded became wilder, but more beautiful: it
+opened to greater width, the precipices around rose to a thousand feet
+in height, covered from their black summits down to the valley with
+green shrubs of a thousand hues, through which cascades glittering like
+silver in the sun, rushed gurgling and foaming to the river.
+
+At noon the travellers reached a hut inhabited by a friend of Maititi,
+named Tibu; the owner also of another hut some miles further up, where
+his wife lived with the pigs and dogs! This being the last station on
+the road to the Wahiria Lake, it was determined to spend the night here.
+Before they set forward in the morning, a large pig was tied up, to be
+prepared for killing on the expected return of Mr. Hoffman and his
+associates, whom the hospitable Tibu accompanied on the remainder of
+their journey.
+
+Here every vestige of a path disappeared. At a height of seven hundred
+and eleven feet above the level of the sea, the travellers found
+enormous blocks of granite lying in a south-easterly direction. The way
+to Wahiria lay towards the south-south-west. They continued ascending
+till they reached a marsh in a rocky basin, where wild boars were
+running about.
+
+Another steep precipice was to be climbed before they could reach the
+Valley of the Wahiria. This stretches from north to south, and forms an
+oval, in the centre of which lies the lake, according to barometrical
+measurement, one thousand four hundred and fifty feet above the level of
+the sea. The surrounding rocks rise perpendicularly more than two
+thousand feet. The lake is above a mile and a quarter in
+circumference,[4] and receives the springs from the mountains. A little
+brook also flows into it from the north, but no channel could be found
+by which its waters might be carried off. The depth of the lake near the
+shore is eleven, and in the middle not more than seventeen toises. After
+Mr. Hoffman had satisfied his curiosity, he returned with his companion
+to Tibu's hut, and happily reached its shelter before a heavy storm that
+followed them had begun to discharge its fury. Exhausted by the fatigue
+of the march, and the oppressive heat, Mr. Hoffman threw himself on his
+couch to take a little repose, while his companions killed and roasted
+the pig. The storm now burst in tremendous violence over the hut. The
+thunder rolled fearfully along the valley, and reverberated from the
+rocks; the lightnings gave to the thick darkness a momentary
+illumination equal to the brightness of mid-day, and the rain pouring
+down in torrents, suddenly swelled the rivulet, near which the frail
+dwelling was erected, far above its natural channel. Whoever has
+witnessed a violent storm in the high mountains of a tropical country,
+will never lose the impression of its awfulness.
+
+The following day being Sunday, Tauru, immediately on rising, repeated a
+long prayer, and then read a chapter of the New Testament, of which at
+least one copy was to be found in every hut. After a good breakfast, Mr.
+Hoffman wished to proceed, but his guides were not to be moved, and
+threats and entreaties were equally unavailing. They assured him that a
+continuation of the journey would be a profanation of the Sabbath, a
+crime for which they would be hanged, should it come to the knowledge of
+the Missionaries. This was a little too strongly expressed; and the
+tempting remains of the roasted pig had, no doubt, as much influence in
+supporting their resolution, as their religious scruples, or their fears
+of the Missionaries. The next morning they made no objection to setting
+out. Our travellers were joined on the road by many families, laden
+with mountain bananas, so that they arrived in a large company at
+Matarai.
+
+Mr. Hoffman made several other journeys into the interior of the island,
+and visited Arue, the present residence of the Court. The mineralogical
+and geological observations made on these excursions, are reserved for a
+separate treatise; but some particulars concerning his intercourse with
+the inhabitants, may be properly introduced here.
+
+The houses are merely built of perpendicular bamboo-canes, standing at
+some distance apart, to give free admission to the air. The roofs of
+palm-leaves are strong enough to defy the heaviest rain.
+
+As curious after novelty as more civilized infants, the heads of the
+children were thrust out from every hut he passed, and the parents
+hospitably asked him in. When he accepted the invitation, he was always
+conducted to the seat of honour, a raised bench covered with matting and
+tapa stuff; and, after freely partaking of the best the house afforded,
+was considered to have paid handsomely for his entertainment with a
+knife. Bedsteads made of bamboo-canes, and filled with soft matting, are
+placed along the walls, and make very comfortable, easy couches. These
+pleasant little abodes, in which the greatest cleanliness is everywhere
+observable, are all surrounded by cultivated gardens. In the evening,
+they are lighted by the oily nuts of the taper-tree, fastened in rows on
+splinters.
+
+Mr. Hoffman's visit to the house of his friend Maititi, excited the
+greatest joy. His host presented to him his wife and children, and
+entertained him in the most splendid manner his means would allow.
+
+In the capital Mr. Hoffman found nothing remarkable. The palace
+inhabited by the Royal Family, was a spacious hut, with an ante-chamber
+or outer house, in which eight of the guard kept watch. Their only
+weapon was an old pistol fastened on a plank; this was frequently fired,
+probably to accustom the young King to the tumult of battle. The old
+King lies buried under a stone monument, in front of which three guns
+are kept; but, to prevent accidents, they are nailed up.
+
+We have already mentioned the trade in cocoa-oil carried on by the
+Tahaitians, and the ship possessed by the Queen. This is commanded by an
+Englishman, and a part of the crew is also English. It was just returned
+from a voyage among the Society Islands, where it had been to collect
+tribute, and was preparing to carry a cargo of cocoa-oil, stowed in
+thick bamboo-canes, to Port Jackson. From the Captain, who visited me, I
+gained much information concerning the present state of affairs in these
+seas. He had learnt from ships returned from the Friendly Islands, that
+their King had recently conquered the Navigator Islands, which now paid
+tribute to him.
+
+The map of Matarai, and of the bay which bounds it on the north-east,
+completed by us with the utmost care from trigonometrical surveys, is
+attached to this volume, and renders any further description of the
+coast it embraces unnecessary. In December and January, the Tahaitian
+summer months, the trade-wind is often interrupted by violent
+north-westers. Rain and storms are then frequent, and often last till
+April; in the other months the trade-winds blow without intermission,
+and the sky is always serene. For this reason, what is here called the
+summer, might pass for the actual winter; and as the roads of Matarai
+are open to the west wind, it is advisable for ships visiting Tahaiti at
+this season, to run into the harbour, which lies eight miles west of
+Venus Point. It is spacious, formed by coral reefs, protected against
+all winds, and has two entrances so convenient, that ships may sail
+either in or out with almost any wind.
+
+The ebb and flow of the tide in the Matarai Bay differs entirely from
+the ordinary rules, and appears wholly uninfluenced by the moon, to
+which it is everywhere else subject. The rise and fall is very
+inconsiderable. Every noon the whole year round, at the moment the sun
+touches the meridian, the water is highest, and falls with the sinking
+sun till midnight. This phenomenon serves, as well as the sun's motion,
+to supply the place of clocks to the inhabitants.
+
+According to Humboldt, the altitude of the highest mountain in Tahaiti
+is ten thousand feet; according to the barometrical measurement of Mr.
+Long, only eight thousand feet above the level of the sea.
+
+Our first observation by chronometers, on our arrival at Matarai, gave
+the longitude of Venus Point as 149° 20' 30"; the true one, as given by
+Admiral Krusenstern on his map, is 149° 27' 20"; consequently, the error
+of our chronometers was 6' 50". This correction has been made in all the
+longitudes taken by us in the dangerous Archipelago. From our
+observatory on Venus Point, we found its latitude 17° 29' 17", and its
+longitude 149° 29'.
+
+The variation of the needle was 6° 50' east, and its inclination 29°
+30'.
+
+The barometer ranged from 29' 80" to 29' 70"; Reaumur's thermometer from
+twenty-three and a half to twenty-four and a half.
+
+The islands which I discovered on my former voyage in the ship
+Rurik,--the Romanzow, Spiridow, Dean's Islands, the Rurik's Chain, &c.
+whose longitude I had not then an opportunity to rectify upon Venus
+Point, lie 5' 36" more to the west than I at first supposed.
+
+The longitude given by Captain Bellingshausen for the island which he
+discovered, appeared to us by 3' 10" too great.
+
+On the morning of the 24th of March, we broke up our tent on the Venus
+Point, left our dwelling-house, and shipped all our instruments and
+effects. The afternoon was appointed for our departure. The Tahaitians
+now boarded the ship, bringing as many provisions as they could carry.
+They expressed great regret at losing us; and, to prove the
+disinterestedness of their good-will, would accept no presents in
+return. They unanimously assured us, that of all nations whose ships had
+visited their island, none pleased them so well as the Russians. They
+took leave of us with the most cordial embraces, and many of them shed
+tears. They accompanied us in their canoes to the mouth of the Bay, and
+were standing out to sea, when a sudden and violent gust of wind forced
+them to return. The same gust very nearly carried away one of our sails,
+and the proximity of the land placed us for a minute or two in a
+critical situation, but the coolness and skill of our officers and men
+relieved us from the momentary danger. In half an hour the regular
+trade-wind returned, and with the liveliest wishes for the future
+welfare of the good Tahaitians, we lost sight of their lovely island.
+
+To the remarks concerning them already made, I will add some on their
+language, from the work on this subject which I have before mentioned.
+The author says, "The language spoken on most of the islands of the
+South Sea, and therefore called the Polynesian, may be considered either
+as primitive, or as related to, and descended from, a common source with
+the Malay." It is undoubtedly very old, for these people have been from
+an unknown period separated from all others, and before the arrival of
+Europeans among them, considered themselves as the whole human race.
+
+Although, in comparison with European languages, that of Tahaiti, as
+belonging to an ignorant and uncultivated people, is necessarily very
+defective, it perhaps surpasses all others in strength, precision, and
+simplicity,--in the personal pronouns especially. Its resemblance to the
+Hebrew, in the conjugation of the verbs, as well as in the roots of
+some of the words, can easily be proved. Many of the words really appear
+of Hebrew origin: as for example, _mate_, dead; _mara_, or _maramosa_,
+bitter; _rapaon_, to heal, &c.
+
+The Polynesian language being so widely extended, and spoken by the
+inhabitants of so many islands, who have little or no intercourse with
+each other, it naturally branches into many dialects. These are indeed
+so various, that they cannot readily be recognised as derivatives from
+the same stock.
+
+The principal dialects are,--that spoken in the Sandwich Islands, or the
+Hawaiian; that of the Marquesas; that of New Zealand; the Tongatabuan,
+spoken by the inhabitants of the Friendly Islands, and the Tahaitian.
+All the others, as far as they are known, are more or less related to
+these.
+
+The Tahaitian dialect is distinguished by its melody, as it has no broad
+or hissing consonants. The pronunciation is rendered difficult by its
+numerous diphthongs.
+
+The substantives do not change their terminations in declension; but
+the cases, of which there are but three, are formed by syllables
+prefixed: for example--
+
+  SINGULAR.
+
+  Nom.--_Te taata_--the man.
+  Poss.--_No te taata_--of the man.
+  Object.--_He taata_--to the man--and the man.
+
+  PLURAL.
+
+  Nom.--_Te mau taata_--the men.
+  Poss.--_No te mau taata_--of the men.
+  Object.--_He mau taata_--the men--and to the men.
+
+The Tahaitians have a great number of definite and indefinite articles,
+and prefixes, which they apply in a peculiar manner. The article te
+often stands before proper names; also before God, _Te Atua_; sometimes
+_o_, which then appears to be an article; as, _O Pomare_, _O Huaheine_,
+_O Tahaiti_. Sometimes this o is placed before the personal pronouns in
+the nominative case.
+
+_O vau_, I; _o oe_, thou; _o oia_, she, he, it. In these pronouns the
+Tahaitian, and those languages to which it bears affinity, are
+particularly rich. They have not only the dual of the Orientals, but
+two first persons in the singular as well as plural: for example--
+
+  _O Taua_--thou and I.
+  _O Maua_--he and I.
+  _O Tatou_--you and I.
+  _O Motou_--we three, or several.
+
+By this the conjugation of the verbs is made more complicated than in
+other languages, but it again becomes easier from neither the person nor
+the tense changing the word itself, but all the variations being
+expressed by particular particles: for instance--_motau_, to fear; _te
+matau nei au_, I fear; _te matau ra oau_, I feared; _i motau na oau_, I
+have feared; _e matau au_, I shall fear.
+
+Since my readers will hardly wish to study the Tahaitian language very
+thoroughly, I here close my extracts from its grammar.--Whoever really
+desires to learn it must go to Tahaiti. I must, however, warn him to arm
+himself with patience; for though the Tahaitians are very ready with
+their assistance, they have quite as bad a habit as ourselves of
+laughing at any one who speaks their language ill,--I say this from
+experience.
+
+Some months before us, the French Captain Duperré had visited Tahaiti
+upon a voyage of discovery, in the corvette Coquille. He returned home
+in safety, and is about to publish his travels, of which he has already
+had the goodness to send me some portions. An important acquisition to
+science may be expected from this work.
+
+
+
+
+THE PITCAIRN ISLAND.
+
+
+
+
+THE PITCAIRN ISLAND.
+
+
+I did not myself touch on this island, but I met in Chili an American
+Captain just returned from it, and in Tahaiti one of the earliest
+mothers of its population, who spoke English well enough to carry on a
+conversation. The information jointly obtained from both these persons,
+will not, I think, be unwelcome to my readers; and those who are
+unacquainted with the rise of this interesting colony, will perhaps find
+pleasure in a brief account of it.
+
+The English government appreciating the usefulness of the bread-fruit
+tree, and desirous of introducing it into the West-Indian colonies, in
+the year 1787, commissioned the ship Bounty, under the command of
+Lieutenant Bligh, who had already served as master under Captain Cook,
+to convey a cargo of these young trees from the South Sea Islands, to
+the West Indies. Forty-six men formed the ship's complement.
+
+After an excessively difficult voyage, during which he had vainly
+endeavoured, for thirty days, to double Cape Horn, and at length,
+yielding to necessity, had effected his passage by the Cape of Good
+Hope, he reached Tahaiti in safety in October 1788.
+
+Although the good-natured Tahaitians seem to have given great
+assistance, five months were occupied in lading the vessel; perhaps
+because Lieutenant Bligh and his crew found their station very
+agreeable. During this period the crew lived in the greatest harmony
+with the natives, especially the women; and this may probably afford a
+key to the subsequent fate of Bligh.
+
+On the fourth of April 1789, he sailed from Tahaiti, touched at one of
+the Friendly Islands to replace such of the young plants as had been
+destroyed, and on the 27th of the same month continued his course,
+cheered by the conviction of his ability to execute his commission, and
+to become the benefactor of the West Indies, by extending to them one of
+the greatest blessings bestowed by nature on her favourite children.
+
+But it was otherwise written in the book of Fate. The remorseless
+severity with which he treated those under his command,--the insults he
+offered them, having subjected even his mate, Christian Fletcher, to
+corporal chastisement, combined with the recollection of the pleasant
+time spent in Tahaiti, produced a conspiracy of some of the crew, headed
+by Fletcher, to seize on the ship, remove from it the commander and his
+adherents, and, renouncing England for ever, to return to Tahaiti, and
+spend there the remainder of their lives in ease and enjoyment.
+
+The conspirators kept their plan so profoundly secret, that neither
+Bligh nor any of those who remained faithful to him, imbibed the least
+suspicion of the criminal project, which was put in execution at sunrise
+on the 28th of April. The mate Christian, who then commanded the watch,
+entered, with two petty officers and a sailor, the cabin of Lieutenant
+Bligh, whom they found tranquilly sleeping. They fell on him, bound his
+hands behind his back, and threatened him with instant death if he
+uttered a sound, or offered the smallest resistance. Bligh, perfectly
+undaunted, endeavoured to grasp his weapons, and, on finding himself
+overpowered, called aloud for help; but the mutineers having, at the
+same moment, seized on all who were strangers to the plot, the
+unfortunate Commander had no resource but submission to his fate. He was
+carried on deck with no other covering than his shirt, and there found
+his faithful followers, nineteen in number, bound in a similar manner.
+
+The long-boat was now lowered; Bligh, in the mean time, attempting to
+recall the mutineers to their duty by unavailing remonstrances, to which
+renewed menaces of immediate death were the only answers.
+
+When the boat was ready, and the officers and sailors had been
+separately unbound and lowered into it, Christian addressed himself to
+Bligh: "Now, Captain, your officers and crew are ready; it is time for
+you to follow; any opposition will cost your life." He was then
+liberated, and put into the boat with his companions in misfortune,
+amidst the bitterest execrations for his past tyranny, from the
+mutineers. After some provisions had been furnished to the boat, and a
+compass, quadrant, and a couple of old sabres added, at the entreaty of
+its occupants, the mutineers set their sails and abandoned their former
+comrades to their fate, with shouts of "Down with Captain Bligh! Hurrah
+for O Tahaiti!"
+
+A regular narrative of what afterwards befell these unfortunate outcasts
+would not be strictly in place here; but such of my readers as are yet
+unacquainted with the facts, may learn with interest, that though
+abandoned on the vast ocean, in an open boat only twenty-three feet
+long, six feet nine inches broad, and two feet nine inches deep, very
+scantily provisioned, and destitute of a chart, they ultimately
+succeeded, by unparalleled efforts, in reaching a place of safety. The
+boat being, at the period of its desertion, within about thirty miles of
+the island of Tofoa, it was determined to land there, and take in a
+store of provisions, then proceed to Tongatabu, and solicit permission
+from the King of the Friendly Islands to put their boat into a
+practicable condition for hazarding a voyage to India.
+
+They effected their landing at Tofoa, and secured the boat to the
+strand, but were presently attacked by a multitude of savages, who
+saluted the defenceless strangers with showers of stones, and would soon
+have overpowered them, had not an heroic petty-officer, named Norton,
+resolved to sacrifice himself for the safety of his companions. He
+sprang on shore, loosened the iron chain which fastened the boat, and
+had only time to exclaim, Fly, fly! ere he was seized and murdered by
+the savages.
+
+This melancholy occurrence discouraged the fugitives from touching at
+Tongatabu, or any other island inhabited by savages. All now applied to
+Bligh, with the unanimous entreaty that he would conduct them to some
+port in the possession of Europeans; and took a solemn oath of the most
+unconditional obedience to him in the execution of this design. In
+compliance with their wishes, Bligh adopted the daring resolution of
+passing through the Torres Straits to the island of Timor, belonging to
+the Dutch. The distance was about four thousand miles; it was therefore
+indispensable to observe the most rigid economy in distributing the
+provisions. The whole crew submitted, without murmuring, to the daily
+allowance of an ounce of biscuit, and the eighth part of a bottle of
+water. On the following day a storm arose, which so filled the boat with
+water, that the most unremitting exertions were necessary to prevent her
+foundering. By a second storm, accompanied with violent rain, the small
+remaining provision of biscuit was transformed into a sort of paste,
+which now constituted their only food, and even of this they were
+henceforward obliged to partake yet more sparingly, as the voyage proved
+of longer duration than was at first calculated.
+
+Thus utterly exhausted by hunger, thirst, fatigue, wet, the burning rays
+of the sun, and sickness arising from such complicated sufferings, the
+unfortunate wanderers, after a voyage of thirty-two days, had the
+indescribable joy of beholding the coast of New Zealand, and entering
+the Torres Straits. They landed on a little uninhabited island near the
+coast, where they found fine flavoured fruits, oysters, and the most
+delicious water, all in abundance.
+
+Refreshed by wholesome nourishment, they reposed with rapture for one
+night on terra firma; but the rising sun discovered new perils. The
+savages, armed with spears, had assembled on the opposite coast, and
+threatened them with a powerful irruption, which they thought it prudent
+to avoid, by a precipitate retreat from the island.
+
+They sailed through the channel with fine weather, and a tranquil sea.
+The natives beckoned from the shore with green boughs, inviting them to
+land; but Bligh would not trust the intentions of this little hideous
+negro race.
+
+Some other uninhabited islands served them as resting-places, and for
+recruiting their stores with fresh water and fruits. Reanimated by the
+hope of soon reaching the island of Timor and the term of their
+sufferings, the best spirits now prevailed among them.
+
+But the object of their wishes was still far distant. When the boat had
+passed the Torres Straits, and regained the open sea, all the
+inconveniences and misfortunes to which they had before been subjected,
+returned with redoubled severity. The whole crew was sick; some were
+ready to expire; almost all had resigned the hope of ever again finding
+safety in port, and besought Heaven only for deliverance from their
+accumulated sufferings by a speedy death. Bligh, though himself ill, did
+his utmost to inspire his men with courage, assuring them that they were
+approaching land.
+
+The promise did not fail. On the morning of the 12th of June, at three
+o'clock, the high mountains of the island of Timor rose in smiling
+majesty before them. This sight operated like an electric shock on the
+exhausted sufferers; they raised their hands to Heaven, and never
+certainly were thanksgivings more sincere. Two more days brought them to
+the Dutch settlement of Cupang, where the Governor received them with
+the utmost benevolence. The whole party, except one only, whose strength
+was entirely worn out, soon recovered their health, and found means of
+reaching England in March 1790.
+
+It might have been supposed, that the terrible lesson Bligh had
+received would have taught him caution for the future; but it made
+little impression on his character. As commander of a ship of the line,
+his severity again provoked a mutiny; and when afterwards Governor of
+New South Wales, an insurrection was excited from the same excess of
+discipline.
+
+To return from this digression to the history of the colonization of
+Pitcairn Island. The mutineers of the Bounty, after the success of their
+plot, unanimously elected Christian for their Captain, and sailed for
+Tahaiti. On their way thither, they passed the small hilly, well peopled
+island of Tabuai, seen in 1777 by Cook, and formed the resolution of
+settling there. With much difficulty they brought the ship into harbour,
+through numerous coral reefs. They were received in the most friendly
+manner by the natives, who only showed symptoms of uneasiness when they
+saw the new comers preparing to erect a fortress on a point of land near
+the harbour; even in this obnoxious undertaking, however, they assisted;
+but harmony was not of much longer continuance. The Europeans,
+confident in the superiority they derived from their weapons, soon
+became insolent, and especially irritated the islanders by the abduction
+of their women.
+
+A sudden attack was made on Christian and his crew, who gained a height,
+where they defended themselves, and so effectually, that none of the
+party was killed, and but one man wounded; while the fire of their
+muskets produced great havoc among the savages. Though conquerors in
+this instance, they however found it advisable to quit Tabuai, and to
+sail once more for Tahaiti. During the voyage thither, a deep melancholy
+seized the mind of Christian; remorse, and dark forebodings of the
+future, haunted him incessantly; he shut himself up in his cabin, seldom
+appeared, and spoke but little.
+
+When the Bounty again cast anchor before Tahaiti, the natives crowded to
+the shore, rejoicing in the speedy return of their friends, but were
+much surprised at missing the captain and a great part of the crew.
+Christian persuaded them that Captain Bligh and the other men had made a
+settlement on Tabuai, of which island the captain had become king, but
+that he himself, and those who accompanied him, preferred returning to
+Tahaiti, where among their kind friends, they wished to pass the
+remainder of their days. These innocent people gave implicit credence to
+his story, and heartily rejoiced in the prospect of their friends'
+continued residence among them. Christian's private intention, however,
+was to establish a colony on some unknown and uninhabited island, since
+it was easy to forsee, that the criminals would be first sought in
+Tahaiti, whenever the tidings of their proceedings should reach the
+English government. Being dissatisfied with some of his companions, or
+unable to obtain their concurrence in his views, he concerted his
+project with eight only of the crew, and under the strictest injunctions
+of secrecy. Thus arose a second conspiracy among the accomplices in
+guilt.
+
+Christian and the parties to his new plot, found an opportunity of
+engaging the rest of the crew at a distance, while they weighed anchor
+and stood out to sea, with eight Tahaitians and ten women, whom they
+had enticed to accompany them. After a search of some weeks in those
+seas, they accidentally lighted upon Pitcairn Island, discovered by
+Carteret in the year 1767. Its extent is inconsiderable, but they found
+it uninhabited, and the soil fruitful, although high and rocky.
+Christian and his companions examined it closely, and, charmed with its
+luxuriant vegetation, resolved here to conceal themselves for ever from
+the world, hoping by this means to escape the punishment they so well
+merited.
+
+All their endeavours to discover a harbour capable of admitting the
+Bounty, proving fruitless, they determined to place themselves under the
+lee of the island, save the cargo, and then destroy the ship, lest its
+appearance might betray them to vessels passing by.
+
+This resolution was carried into effect, the cargo was brought quickly
+ashore, and the ship burnt.
+
+At first the colony suffered from a scarcity of provisions, as the
+island produced neither bread-fruit nor cocoa-trees; they, however,
+contented themselves with a temporary subsistence on roots and fish,
+relying for the future improvement of their supplies on the trees
+destined for the West Indies, and other plants brought from Tahaiti;
+which had all been landed uninjured, and immediately planted. Time
+indeed was required before the bread-fruit and cocoa-trees would bear,
+but some sweet potatoes, yams, taro-roots, and others, yielded in the
+following year an ample harvest.
+
+Unanimity and concord appeared firmly established among the colonists,
+who, by common consent, elected Christian as their head. Pretty little
+huts, and diligently cultivated fields of taro, yam, and potatoes, soon
+adorned the wilderness. After the lapse of three years, Christian became
+the father of a son, whom he named Friday Fletcher October Christian;
+but the infant's birth made its father a widower. Strongly inclined to a
+second marriage, and all the women being already provided with husbands,
+he seduced a wife from one of the Tahaitians, who, incensed at this
+outrage, watched an opportunity when Christian was at work on his
+plantation, attacked, and murdered him. Intelligence of this deed
+spreading quickly through the colony, produced instant retribution from
+the musket of an Englishman.
+
+Long inflamed by jealousy, at the decided preference shown by their
+females for the strangers, the passions of the Tahaitians were
+exasperated beyond endurance, by this act of retaliation; they made a
+sudden attack by night on the English, and murdered all, except one man
+named Adams, who, though severely wounded, contrived to escape into the
+forest, and elude the pursuit of the murderers. The women rendered
+desperate by the massacre of their lovers, and eager for revenge, found
+means to obtain it the very next night. They overpowered the Tahaitians
+in their sleep, and murdered them to a man!
+
+As soon as it was light in the morning, these blood-stained Megæras
+sought for the corpses of their beloved Englishmen, and perceiving that
+Adams was missing, conjectured that he might be concealed and safe;
+although traces of blood were visible on the ground of his hut. They
+accordingly searched the forest in every direction, and at last found
+him in a most miserable condition. They bound his wounds, carried him
+into a hut, and by their united care and the application of healing
+herbs, Adams, being young and vigorous, soon recovered his health. The
+affections of all the women now concentrated themselves in this one
+object. He became their common chief and husband, to whom they willingly
+promised obedience; and, according to his testimony, jealousy never
+embittered their lives.
+
+Till the year 1803, consequently during fourteen years, Adams remained
+with his progeny concealed from the world. In this year the English
+Captain Falgier, sailing from Canton to Chili, landed at Pitcairn's
+Island, where they with astonishment encountered a people speaking
+English, having the most intimate knowledge of European customs, and
+betraying their origin in their features and complexion. Adams himself
+explained to him the enigma. Falgier communicated the information he had
+received to the English Government, but represented the situation of the
+island so erroneously, that it passed for a new discovery, till the
+English frigate Breton, in the year 1814, on her voyage from the
+Marquesas to the coast of Chili, also touched at the Pitcairn Island,
+which from the account of its discoverer Carteret, they considered
+uninhabited. The crew were therefore much surprised at the sight of
+cultivated fields, and ornamental cottages; and also of men assembled on
+the shore making friendly signals and inviting them to land. Some were
+even seen skilfully guiding their little canoes through the surf, and
+approaching the frigate.
+
+The sailors were about to address them in the language of the South Sea
+Islands, when their surprise was not a little increased by hearing the
+name of the ship and her captain enquired for, in pure English. The
+Captain himself replied to these questions, and the conversation
+becoming interesting, invited his new acquaintances on board; they
+immediately complied, and even when the whole crew surrounded them and
+overwhelmed them with questions, betrayed no symptom of the timidity
+universal among the South Sea islanders.
+
+The young man who had first mounted the vessel, saluted the Captain with
+the greatest propriety, and enquired whether he had known in England a
+man of the name of William Bligh. This suddenly threw a light on the
+mystery of the Pitcairn islanders; and they were in return asked if
+there was a man on the island named Christian. The answer was "No, he
+has been long dead, but his son is in the boat which is coming
+alongside." This placed the origin of the colony beyond all doubt.
+
+The crew of the Breton were further informed, that the whole population
+of the island consisted of forty-eight persons--that the men were not
+allowed to marry before their twentieth year, and must only have one
+wife--that Adams had instructed them in the Christian religion--that
+their general language was English, but that they also understood the
+Tahaitian, and that they acknowledged the King of England as their
+sovereign. On being asked if they did not wish to go to England with the
+frigate, they answered "No: we are married and have children."
+
+The sight of a ship of war and its crew, they said, was no novelty to
+them; and they mentioned Captain Falgier's visit to their island. A
+little black poodle dog which they suddenly caught sight of, put them
+all to flight. "That is certainly a dog," they exclaimed, as they
+retreated; "we have never seen one, but we know that it will bite." A
+little observation, however, convinced them of the animal's good-nature,
+and they were soon induced to play fearlessly with him. Being conducted
+into the cabin, they were there entertained with a breakfast, at which
+they behaved very modestly, and showed in their conversation much
+natural understanding. They said a grace before eating, and then partook
+with a good appetite of the provision set before them.
+
+With much difficulty the Captain effected a landing. A pleasant path
+winding among groves of cocoa and bread-fruit trees, led him to a very
+pretty, well situated little village, whose houses, though small, were
+convenient and beautifully clean.
+
+One of Adams's daughters, a young and very attractive looking girl,
+received the guests, and conducted them to her father, a man of sixty,
+but still of very vigorous appearance.
+
+The conversation naturally fell on Christian's mutiny, in which Adams
+maintained he had taken no part, having been wholly unacquainted with
+the design till the moment of its execution. He spoke with abhorrence of
+the manner in which Captain Bligh and his officers and men had been
+treated.
+
+The Captain proposed to Adams to accompany him back to England; but the
+whole colony assembling round him, with tears in their eyes, besought
+him not to take their good father from them. The scene affected even the
+Englishmen.
+
+The Pitcairn islanders are of very pleasing exterior; they have black
+hair and beautiful teeth. The men are slender, and their height five
+feet ten inches and upwards. The dress of both sexes consists of a
+mantle like the Chilian pancho, and they wear hats made of reeds adorned
+with feathers. They still possess a great quantity of old clothes from
+the ship Bounty, but, with better taste than their maternal ancestors
+the Tahaitians, they never wear them. The island has a beautiful
+appearance, and is said to be extremely fruitful. Wild boars are found
+in the interior.
+
+Seven years after this visit of the Breton, the American merchant-ship
+Eagle, whose Captain I met in Chili, touched on Pitcairn Island. He
+found the population already increased to a hundred persons, and was
+delighted with the order and good government of the little colony. Adams
+reigned as a patriarch king amongst them, and, as sovereign arbitrator,
+settled all disputes, no one presuming to object to his decision. Every
+family possessed a portion of land; the fields were measured off from
+each other, industriously cultivated, and yielding abundant crops of
+yams and sweet potatoes. On Sundays, the whole population assembled at
+Adams's house, when he read the Bible to them, exhorted them to concord
+and good conduct, and took pains to confirm their virtuous dispositions.
+
+Every evening at sunset, when after the heat of the day the inhabitants
+of this delightful climate are revived by the refreshing coolness of the
+air, the young people formed a semicircle round their beloved father,
+while he communicated to them some knowledge of the manners and history
+of his native country, its connections with other nations, and the arts,
+inventions, and customs of the European world. Adams's knowledge is
+probably not very extensive, but it has sufficed to enable him to train
+up his numerous family in habits and information which fit them for the
+easy acquisition of all the arts of civilization.
+
+His attentive auditory have accurately retained his instructions, and
+converse with wonderful facility on the characteristics and customs of
+different nations.
+
+Abusive words are strictly prohibited; and some of the islanders,
+perfectly astonished at hearing a sailor on board the American vessel
+which visited them swear at another, enquired of the Captain whether
+such expressions were permitted in his country.
+
+The Captain was enchanted with the conduct and character of this amiable
+people; and ascribed their virtues to the instructions and example of
+their patriarch. This good old man, however, expressed much anxiety
+concerning the future. "I cannot," said he, "live much longer,--and who
+shall prosecute the work I have begun? My children are not yet so firmly
+established, but that they are liable to fall into error. They require
+the guidance of an intelligent virtuous man from some civilized nation."
+
+At Tahaiti, as already stated, I met with one of Adams's wives, who had
+arrived there a short time before in an European ship, and from her I
+learnt many of the particulars here related. She spoke tolerably good
+English, but with a foreign accent. This old woman had been induced, by
+that longing for our native home which acts so powerfully upon the human
+mind, to return to the land of her birth, where she intended to have
+closed her life, but she soon changed her mind. The Tahaitians, she
+assured me, were by no means so virtuous as the natives of the little
+Paradise to which she was now all impatience to return. She had a very
+high opinion of her Adams, and maintained that no man in the world was
+worthy of comparison with him. She still spoke with vehement indignation
+of the murder of the English by her countrymen, and boasted of the
+vengeance she had taken.
+
+Adams, who was now very aged and feeble, had proposed to the
+Missionaries to send a Tahaitian as his successor; and fearing that the
+population of his island might exceed the means of subsistence which
+their quantity of arable land afforded, he was desirous of settling some
+of his families in Tahaiti.
+
+With his first wish the Missionaries will certainly comply as a means of
+extending their dominion over Pitcairn Island also. May Adams's paternal
+government never be exchanged for despotism, nor his practical lessons
+of piety be forgotten in empty forms of prayer.
+
+In the year 1791, the English frigate Pandora was sent, under the
+command of Captain Edwards, to the South Sea in pursuit of the mutineers
+against Bligh. Those who had remained in Tahaiti were found and carried
+back to England, where they were condemned to death according to the
+laws; the royal mercy was extended to a few only, the rest suffered the
+full penalty of their crime.
+
+[Illustration: CHART OF THE NAVIGATORS' ISLANDS]
+
+
+
+
+THE NAVIGATORS' ISLANDS.
+
+
+
+
+THE NAVIGATORS' ISLANDS.
+
+
+On leaving Tahaiti, I proposed to pass a few days on the Radack Islands,
+which I had formerly discovered; and, on my way thither, determined to
+visit the Navigators' Islands. These are probably the same seen by
+Roggewin in 1721, which he called Baumann's Islands; but Bougainville
+has appropriated the discovery, as made by him in 1766, and given them
+the name they now bear, on account of the superior sailing vessels built
+there, and the remarkable skill the inhabitants display in their
+management. Neither Roggewin nor Bougainville have given their situation
+accurately, nor have these original errors been perfectly corrected by
+the unfortunate La Pérouse, or the Englishman Edwards, who alone are
+known to have since touched on these islands; the former visited only
+the more northern islands; and the latter communicated no particulars of
+his voyage to the public. I therefore considered it worth the trouble to
+complete the survey, by examining those which lay to the south of La
+Pérouse's track.
+
+I at first steered past the Society Islands, lying to leeward from
+Tahaiti, in order to rectify their longitude; and afterwards carefully
+endeavoured to avoid the course taken, to my knowledge, by any former
+navigator.
+
+On the 25th of March we saw, to the north, the island of Guagein, and to
+the north-west that of Ulietea. When the western point of the latter lay
+due north from us, I found its longitude, according to our chronometers,
+151° 26' 30", which is nearly the same as on the maps.
+
+The island of Maurura, on the contrary, is very inaccurately laid down;
+we found the longitude of the middle of this island, as we sailed past
+its southern coast, to be 152° 10' 40". In the evening we had already
+cleared the Society Islands, and were pursuing a westward course.
+
+On the following morning we perceived a cluster of low coral islands,
+connected by reefs, which, as usual, enclosed an inland sea. The country
+was covered with thick dwarf shrubs; and, in the whole group, we saw but
+one cocoa-tree rising solitarily above the bushes. A multitude of
+sea-birds, the only inhabitants of these islands, surrounded the vessel
+as we drew nearer. The group stretches about three miles from North to
+South, and is about two miles and a half broad. Guided by observations
+which, from the clearness of the atmosphere, I had been enabled to make
+correctly immediately before they came in sight, I estimated their
+latitude as 15° 48' 7" South; their longitude as 154° 30'. We were the
+first discoverers of these Islands, and gave them the name of our
+meritorious navigator, Bellingshausen.
+
+The night was stormy: morning indeed brought cheerful weather, but no
+cheerful feelings to our minds, for we had lost another member of our
+little wandering fraternity; he died, notwithstanding all the efforts of
+our skilful physician, of a dysentery, occasioned by the continual heat
+and the frequently damp air. This same year the Tahaitians suffered
+much from a similar disease, and died in great numbers from the want of
+medical assistance. The Missionaries, who only desire to govern their
+minds, have never yet troubled themselves to establish any institution
+for the health of the body.
+
+During this and the few succeeding days, the appearance of great flocks
+of sea-birds frequently convinced us that we must be in the
+neighbourhood of unknown islands; but as from the mast-head they can
+only be discerned at a proximity of fifteen or sixteen miles, we did not
+happen to fall in with them.
+
+On the second of April, however, we passed a little uninhabited island,
+something higher than the coral islands usually are. Its latitude is 14°
+32' 39" South, and its longitude 168° 6'. I then considered it a new
+discovery, and gave it the name of my First Lieutenant, Kordinkoff; but,
+on my return, I learned that it had been previously discovered by
+Captain Freycinet, on his voyage from the Sandwich Islands to New
+Holland, in the year 1819; the narrative of which had not appeared when
+I left Europe. The situation of this island, as he has given it,
+corresponds exactly with my own observation.
+
+This same night, by favour of the clear moonshine, we saw the most
+easterly of the Navigators' Islands, Opoun, rising from the sea like a
+high round mountain. Westward from it, and close to each other, lie the
+little islands Leoneh and Fanfueh.[5] Near these is Maouna, with another
+little island at its north-east point. Forty-five miles further lies
+Ojalava, and ten miles and a half from it Pola, the largest, highest,
+and most westward of the group: connected with them are several other
+small islands, which I shall hereafter have occasion to mention.
+
+As the chart which accompanies this volume accurately describes the
+geographical situation of all these islands, it is only necessary here
+to remark, that it was drawn up from the most diligent astronomical
+observations.
+
+All these islands are extremely fertile, and very thickly peopled.
+Ojalava surpasses any that I have seen, even Tahaiti itself, in
+luxuriant beauty. The landscape of Pola is majestic; the whole island is
+one large, high, round mountain, which strikingly resembles the
+Mauna-roa upon the island of Owahy: it is not quite so lofty indeed as
+the latter, but its altitude is about the same as that of the Peak of
+Teneriffe.
+
+All the islands of the South Sea are more or less formed of coral reefs,
+which make secure harbours; the Navigators' Islands only are not
+indebted to these active little animals for this advantage. We sailed
+round all their coasts, and could find but one open bay, which runs far
+inland in the island of Maouna, opposite the small island already
+noticed off its north-east point.
+
+The inhabitants of these islands are still far less civilized than were
+the Tahaitians when first discovered by Wallis. Those of Maouna
+especially are perhaps the most ferocious people to be met with in the
+South Sea. It was they who murdered Captain de Langle, the commander of
+the second ship under La Pérouse, the naturalist Laman, and fourteen
+persons from the crews of both ships, on their venturing ashore;
+although they had loaded the natives with presents.
+
+These savages attacked them with showers of stones; and the muskets of
+the Europeans after the first discharge, which unfortunately did but
+little execution, could not be reloaded speedily enough for their
+protection. Triumphing in their inhuman victory, they mangled and
+plundered the remains of their unfortunate victims.
+
+We sailed to the scene of this dreadful occurrence, since called
+Massacre Bay. The appearance of the country was inviting; the shores
+were bordered with cocoa-trees, and the freshest vegetation enlivened
+the interior, but nothing betrayed that the island was inhabited; no
+smoke arose, and no canoe was to be seen; this was the more remarkable,
+as on La Pérouse's arrival, his ship, as soon as perceived by the
+natives, was surrounded by several hundred canoes laden with provisions.
+A small canoe, carrying only three men, at length rowed towards us; we
+laid to, and by signs gave permission to the savages to come on board;
+this they could not resolve upon; but one of them climbed the ship's
+side high enough to see over the deck, and handed to us a few
+cocoa-nuts, all the provisions they had brought; a piece of iron, which
+we gave him in return, he pressed to his forehead in sign of
+thankfulness, and then bowed his head. He examined the deck a long time
+with prying and suspicious glances, without speaking a word; then
+suddenly commenced a long pathetic harangue, growing more and more
+animated as he proceeded, and pointing with passionate gestures,
+alternately to the ship and the land. His eloquence was quite thrown
+away on us; but the silence with which we listened, might probably lead
+him to suppose that we attached some importance to it. His confidence
+gradually increased, and he would perhaps have spoken longer, had not
+his attention been arrested by the approach of several canoes.
+
+We were soon surrounded by the descendants of the barbarian murderers;
+perhaps some of the actors in the atrocious deed might even themselves
+be amongst the crowd which now assembled around us. This wild troop
+appeared timid at first, but our orator having encouraged them, they
+became so impudent and daring, that they seemed disposed to storm the
+ship. I ranged my sailors fully armed round the deck, to keep off such
+disagreeable visitants, but with strict orders to avoid hurting them. It
+was, however, only the bayonets and lances which prevented the multitude
+from climbing into the ship; and some of the most daring, by patiently
+enduring heavy and repeated blows, even succeeded in reaching the deck;
+they grasped with both hands any object they could cling to, so
+pertinaceously, that it required the united efforts of several of our
+strongest sailors to throw them overboard. Except a few cocoa-nuts, they
+brought us no kind of provisions, but by pantomimic gestures invited us
+to land; endeavouring to signify that we should be richly provided on
+shore with every thing we wanted. The savages had probably destined for
+us the fate of De Langle and his companions; they appeared unarmed, but
+had artfully concealed clubs and short lances in their canoes.
+
+A very few of them, whom we permitted to remain on deck, behaved as
+impudently as if they had been masters of the ship; they snatched from
+my hands some little presents I was about to distribute among them,
+exhibiting them to their companions in the canoes below. This excited
+amongst the latter a terrific rage, and, with noise and gestures
+resembling madness, they endeavoured to frighten us into compliance with
+their desire to come on board. Only one among them received the presents
+we made him, with any appearance of modesty or thankfulness; the others
+seemed to consider them as a tribute due to them. This more decorous
+personage bowed towards me in almost an European fashion, pressed the
+articles given him several times to his forehead, and then, turning to
+me, rubbed the point of his nose pretty roughly against mine. This young
+savage was probably a person of rank, who had received a particularly
+good education; he was of a cheerful temper, examined every thing very
+closely, and made many remarks to those in the canoes, which were
+apparently considered extremely witty, for he was always answered by
+bursts of laughter. The rest of his countrymen who remained on board,
+became very troublesome; like the beasts of the deserts, scarcely more
+wild than themselves, they tried to seize by main force whatever we
+would not willingly give them. One of them was so tempted by the
+accidental display of a sailor's bare arm, that he could not help
+expressing his horrible appetite for human flesh;--he snapt at it with
+his teeth, giving us to understand by unequivocal signs, that such food
+would be very palatable to him. This proof that we were in communication
+with cannibals, needed not the picture presently conjured up by our
+imagination, of the detestable meal which the unfortunate Frenchmen had
+doubtlessly afforded to their murderers, to complete our disgust and
+aversion, and to accelerate the expulsion of the remaining savages from
+our vessel.
+
+The inhabitants of many of the South Sea islands are still cannibals,
+and most of them, even where this abominable propensity does not
+prevail, are of so artful and treacherous a character, that none should
+venture among them without the greatest precaution. Their friendliness
+arises from fear, and soon vanishes when they think themselves the
+strongest, and are not exposed to vengeance. I would not even advise
+placing too much confidence in the inhabitants of Radack, who are
+certainly among the best of these islanders. It is only when ideas of
+right and wrong are steadily fixed, that man becomes really rational;
+before this, he is like other animals, the mere slave of his instincts.
+
+The inhabitants of Maouna are probably the worst of these tribes; those
+we saw were at least five feet and a half in height, slender, their
+limbs of a moderate size, and strikingly muscular; I should have thought
+their faces handsome, had they not been disfigured by an expression of
+wildness and cruelty; their colour is dark brown; some let their long,
+straight, black hair hang down unornamented over neck, face, and
+shoulders; others wore it bound up, or frizzed and crisped by burning,
+and entangled like a cap round the head: these caps are coloured yellow,
+and make a striking contrast with the heads which remain black. Some,
+again, coloured their hair red, and curled it over their shoulders like
+a full-bottomed wig. A great deal of time must be required for this
+mode of dressing, a proof that vanity may exist even among cannibals.
+The glass beads they obtained from us they immediately hung over their
+neck and ears, but had previously no ornaments on either. Most of them
+were quite naked; only a few had aprons made of the leaves of some kind
+of palm unknown to us, which from their various colours and red points
+resemble feathers. Since the time of La Pérouse, the fashion in
+tattooing appears to have very much altered: he found the inhabitants of
+the South Sea Islands so tattooed over the whole body, as to have the
+appearance of being clothed;--now most of them are not tattooed at all;
+and those few who are, not with various drawings as formerly, but merely
+stained blue from the hip to the knee, as though they had on short
+breeches.
+
+In the canoes we saw a few women who were all very ugly: these
+disagreeable creatures gave us to understand that we should by no means
+find them cruel--a complaisance which did not render them the less
+disgusting. La Pérouse here describes some attractive females: these
+were as brown as the men, and as little dressed; their hair was cut
+short off, with the exception of two bunches stained red, which hung
+over their faces.
+
+Scarcely one of these savages was without some remarkable scar: one of
+them attracted our attention by a deep cut across the belly. We
+contrived to ask him how he got this cicatrice; and he pointed to his
+lance, from which it may be inferred that they are not unaccustomed to
+war, either with their neighbours or each other, and that they are
+possessed of skilful surgeons. No one of this people seemed to exercise
+any authority over the others. Either no chief accompanied the party who
+came to us, or the term does not signify much power or distinction.
+
+The few fruits which they brought with them were exchanged for pieces of
+iron, old barrel-hoops, and glass beads; on the latter especially they
+set great value, and even brought forward some of their concealed arms,
+and offered them in exchange for this costly decoration. Meanwhile the
+crowd of canoes round the ship grew more and more numerous, and in the
+same proportion the boldness of the savages increased. Many of them rose
+up in their canoes, and made long speeches to, or at us, accompanied by
+angry and menacing gestures, which drew shouts of laughter from their
+companions. At length the screaming and threatening with clubs and
+doubled fists became general. They began to make formal preparations for
+an attack, and we again had recourse to bayonets and lances to keep them
+at a distance. I confess that, at this moment, I had need of some
+self-command to overcome my inclination to revenge on the ferocious
+rabble the fate of La Pérouse's companions.
+
+Our guns and muskets were all ready loaded. A sign from me would have
+spread dismay and death around us; and had we stayed longer among this
+brutal race, we must inevitably have made them feel the power of our
+cannon.
+
+We therefore spread our sails, and the ship running swiftly before the
+wind, many of the canoes which had fastened themselves about her were
+suddenly upset. Those who fell into the water took their ducking very
+coolly, righted their canoes again, and threatened revenge on us with
+the most violent gestures. Several of them clung like cats to the sides
+of the ship, with nails which might have rivalled those of a Chinese
+Mandarin; and we had recourse to long poles as the only means of freeing
+ourselves from such undesirable appendages.
+
+At the western promontory of the island we again lay to, and purchased
+two pigs from some canoes which soon came up. The savages here in no
+other respect differed from those of Massacre Bay, than by conducting
+themselves in a rather more peaceable manner, probably from fear, as
+their number was small.
+
+In the evening the island of Olajava appeared in sight; and about seven
+miles from a little island lying in its neighbourhood, several canoes,
+carrying two or three men each, rowed towards us, deterred neither by
+the distance nor the increasing darkness. Our visitors proved to be
+merry fishermen, for their carefully constructed little canoes adorned
+with inlaid muscle-shells, were amply provided with large angling hooks
+made of mother-of-pearl, attached to long fine lines, and various kinds
+of implements for fishing, and contained an abundance of fine live fish
+of the mackerel kind.
+
+An expression of openness and confidence sat on the countenances of this
+people. Our purchases were carried on with much gaiety and laughter on
+both sides. They gave us their fish, waited quietly for what we gave
+them in return, and were perfectly satisfied with their barter.
+
+Their attention was strongly attracted to the ship. They examined her
+closely from the hold to the mast-head, and made many animated remarks
+to each other on what they saw. If they observed any manoeuvres with
+the sails or tackle, they pointed with their fingers towards the spot,
+and appeared to watch with the most eager curiosity the effect produced.
+
+It was evident that this people, sailors by birth, took a lively
+interest in whatever related to navigation. Their modest behaviour
+contrasted so strikingly with the impudent importunity of the
+inhabitants of Maouna, that we should have been inclined to consider
+them of a different race, but for their exact resemblance in every other
+particular, even in the dressing of their hair, though this was even
+more elaborately performed--an attention to appearance which is curious
+enough, when compared with the dirty, uncombed locks of European
+fishermen; but among the South Sea Islanders fishing is no miserable
+drudgery of the lowest classes, but the pride and pleasure of the most
+distinguished, as hunting is with us. Tameamea, the mighty King of the
+Sandwich Islands, was a very clever fisherman, and as great an
+enthusiast in the sport as any of our European princes in the stag
+chase. As soon as the increasing darkness veiled the land from our
+sight, our visitors departed, and we could hear their regular measured
+song long after they were lost from view.
+
+The little island they inhabit not being marked on any map, it is
+probably a new discovery. By what name the natives called it I could not
+learn; and therefore, to distinguish it from three other small islands
+lying to the north, mentioned by La Pérouse, I gave it the name of
+Fisher's Island. It rises almost perpendicularly from the sea to a
+considerable height, and is overgrown with thick wood.
+
+On the following day we sailed with a brisk wind to the island of
+Olajava, for the purpose of surveying the coast. A number of canoes put
+off from the land, but could not overtake the ship; and I would not lie
+to, on account of the hinderance it occasioned to our work. In the
+afternoon we found ourselves near the little island lying off the
+north-west point of Olajava, called by La Pérouse the Flat Island. A
+hill situated in its centre has, in fact, a flat surface, which La
+Pérouse, at a distance of thirty miles, mistook for the whole island,
+because the low land which surrounds it was not within the compass of
+his horizon.
+
+For the same reason he could not observe that the eastern part of this
+island is connected with the western coast of Olajava by two reefs
+forming a basin, in the middle of which is a small rock. If these be
+indeed coral reefs, which they certainly resemble, they are the only
+ones I have remarked in the Navigators' Islands.
+
+The Flat Island, which, for the reason above mentioned, occupies a much
+larger space on our map than on that of La Pérouse, is entirely
+overgrown with wood, and has a very pleasant appearance. At a little
+distance from this, to the north-west, another little island, which does
+not appear to have been observed by that Voyager, rises perpendicularly
+from the sea. Its sloping back is crested with a row of cocoa-trees so
+regularly arranged, that it is difficult to conceive them planted by the
+unassisted hand of Nature; viewed laterally from a short distance, they
+present the form of a cock's-comb, on which account I gave the island
+this name, to distinguish it from the rest. On its western side a high
+conical rock is covered from top to bottom with a variety of plants,
+evincing the prolific powers of Nature in these regions, where
+vegetation is thus luxuriantly fastened on the most unfavourable soils.
+
+North-west of this rock lies a third small island, exceeding both the
+others in elevation: its sides fall precipitously to the sea, and the
+upper surface describes a horizontal line thickly clothed with beautiful
+trees. As its circumference is only three miles and a half, it can
+hardly be the same that La Pérouse has called Calinasseh. Probably he
+did not observe this island at all, but took the high round mountain on
+the low north-east point of Pola for a separate island, to which he gave
+the name of Calinasseh. The promontory of Pola deceived us also at a
+little distance, but a closer examination convinced us of our error, and
+I transferred the name of Calinasseh to the above-mentioned small
+island.
+
+When the Flat Island lay about three miles to our right, the wind again
+died away. This opportunity was not lost by the natives of Olajava, who
+had all the while followed us in their canoes. They exerted themselves
+to the utmost, and their well worked little vessels swiftly skimmed the
+smooth surface of the sea to the accompaniment of measured cadences,
+till they at last reached the ship.
+
+A horde of canoes now put off towards us from the Flat Island, and we
+were soon surrounded by immense numbers of them, locked so closely
+together, that they seemed to form a bridge of boats, serving for a
+market well stocked with fruits and pigs, and swarming with human beings
+as thick as ants on an anthill: they were all in high spirits, and with
+many jests extolled the goods they brought, making much more noise than
+all the traffic of the London Exchange. Even on our own deck we could
+only make ourselves heard by screaming in each other's ears.
+
+Our bartering trade proceeded, however, to our mutual satisfaction.
+Those who were too far off to reach us endeavoured by all sorts of
+gesticulation, and leaping into the air, to attract our notice. Many of
+the canoes were in this manner upset,--an accident of little consequence
+to such expert swimmers, and which only excited the merriment of their
+companions.
+
+Accident gave us specimens of their extraordinary skill in diving. We
+threw some pieces of barrel-hoops into the sea, when numbers of the
+islanders instantly precipitated themselves to the bottom, and snatched
+up the booty, for the possession of which we could plainly distinguish
+them wrestling with each other under the water. They willingly obeyed
+our orders not to come on deck, and fastened their goods to a rope, by
+which they were drawn on board, waiting with confidence for what we
+should give them, and appearing content with it. Some few had brought
+arms with them, but for trading, not warlike purposes; and although so
+vastly superior to us in numbers, they behaved with great modesty. We
+saw no scars upon them, like those of their neighbours of Maouna--a
+favourable sign, though they certainly seemed to belong to the same
+race. It would be interesting to know the cause of this striking
+difference.
+
+In less than an hour we had obtained upwards of sixty large pigs, and a
+superfluity of fowls, vegetables, and fruits of various kinds, covering
+our whole deck, all of which cost us only some pieces of old iron, some
+strings of glass beads, and about a dozen nails. The blue beads seemed
+to be in highest estimation. A great fat pig was thought sufficiently
+paid for by two strings of them; and when they became scarce with us,
+the savages were glad to give two pigs for one such necklace.
+
+Some of the fruits and roots they brought were unknown to us; and their
+great size proved the strength of the soil. The bananas were of seven or
+eight species, of which I had hitherto seen but three in the most
+fruitful countries. Some of them were extremely large, and of a most
+excellent flavour. One of the fruits resembled an egg in size and
+figure; its colour was a bright crimson; and on the following day when
+we celebrated the Easter festival after the Russian fashion, they
+supplied to us the place of the Easter eggs.
+
+I must yet mention two more articles of our marketing--namely, tame
+pigeons and parrots. The former are widely different from those of
+Europe both in shape and in the splendour of their plumage; their claws
+are also differently formed. The parrots are not larger than a sparrow,
+of a lively green and red, with red tails more than four times the
+length of their whole bodies. All these birds, of which great numbers
+were brought to us, were so tame, that they would sit quietly on the
+hand of their master, and receive their food from his mouth; the
+inclination for taming them, and the method of treatment, is favourable
+evidence of the mildness which characterises this people.
+
+How many other unknown plants and animals may exist among these islands,
+where Nature is so profuse! and how much is it to be regretted that no
+secure anchorage can be found, which would enable an European expedition
+to effect a landing with proper precautions. Some idea may be formed of
+the dense population of the Flat Island, from the fact that, small as is
+its extent, above sixty canoes, each containing seven or eight men, came
+to us from it in less than an hour; and had we stayed longer, the
+canoes must have amounted to some hundreds, as the whole sea between us
+and the island was rapidly covering with increasing numbers.
+
+Our market became still more animated when, the ship's provision being
+completed, I gave permission to the sailors to trade each for himself;
+as hitherto, to avoid confusion, the bargains had all been made by one
+person. Now some wanted one thing, some another from the canoes; and
+buttons, old bits of cloth, and pieces of glass, were offered in
+exchange. The noise became louder and louder; and the sailors laid in
+such a stock of their own, that for weeks afterwards their
+breakfast-table was always provided with a roasted pig stuffed with
+bananas, and their palates gratified with abundance of delicious fruits.
+They unanimously declared that they had never seen so rich a country.
+
+Our trade was interrupted by the appearance of a great canoe surrounded
+with lesser ones, which, advancing towards us, drew the attention of all
+the natives. They called out _Eige-ea Eige_, and hastened to give place
+to the new-comers. The canoe, rowed by ten men, large and elegantly
+embellished with muscle-shells, soon approached us. The heads of the
+rowers and of the steersman were decorated with green boughs, probably
+in token of peace.
+
+In the fore part of the vessel, on a platform covered with matting, sat
+an elderly man cross-legged in the Asiatic fashion, holding a green,
+silk European parasol, which we conjectured must have belonged to one of
+the unfortunate companions of La Pérouse, and have been obtained by this
+chief from Maouna. His clothing consisted of a very finely plaited
+grass-mat, hanging like a mantle from his shoulders, and a girdle round
+his waist. His head was enveloped in a piece of white stuff, in the
+manner of a turban. He spoke a few words, accompanied by a motion of the
+hand, to his countrymen or subjects, who immediately made way for his
+canoe to come alongside; and on our invitation he came on board attended
+by three persons.
+
+He was not tattooed, was about six feet high, thin, but vigorous and
+muscular. His features were not handsome but agreeable; his countenance
+was intelligent and reflective; his behaviour modest and decorous.
+
+On entering the ship, he inquired for the _Eigeh_, and I was pointed out
+to him; he approached me, bowed his head a little, spoke a few words
+which I did not understand, and then took hold of my elbows with both
+hands, raised them up several times, and repeated the English words
+"Very good." After this welcome, which I returned in an European manner,
+he gave me to understand that he was Eigeh of the Flat Island, and
+commanded his attendants to lay at my feet the presents he had brought
+for me, consisting of three fine fat pigs, which he called _boaka_, and
+some fruits. I presented him in return with a large hatchet, two strings
+of blue beads, and a coloured silk handkerchief, which I bound for him
+myself over his turban. The _Eigeh_ appeared excessively happy in the
+possession of these treasures, and tried to express his thankfulness by
+various gesticulations, and the repetition of the words "Very good." He
+also seemed to hold the blue beads in great estimation, and could not
+feel convinced that all those riches actually belonged to him. He
+inquired in pantomime if he might really keep both necklaces; and on my
+assuring him that he might, the old man forgot his dignity, and jumped
+about like a boy with the beads in his hand, calling out, "Very good!
+very good!" A fat treasurer shared the joy of his lord, and
+punctiliously imitated its expression, though not without some
+difficulty. When this tumult of pleasure had a little subsided, the
+latter produced a small basket very prettily plaited, and provided with
+a lid, and placed in it the costly acquisitions of the _Eigeh_; who
+himself took from it a Spanish dollar, and endeavoured to make me
+comprehend the question, whether this would purchase more blue beads.
+
+To judge if he had any idea of the value of money, I offered him a
+single bead for his dollar; he immediately closed with the bargain, and,
+fearing that I might repent of mine, snatched up the bead and thrust the
+money into my hand. I returned it to him; but, to his delight and
+astonishment, left him in possession of the bead. I now tried to learn
+from him how he came by this coin. He soon comprehended my meaning,
+pointed to the south, named Tongatabu, one of the Friendly Islands,
+which are some days' voyage from his own, and gave us to understand that
+he had sailed thither in his own vessel, and had there met with a ship
+from whose _Eigeh_ he had obtained the dollar as well as the parasol.
+The boldness and skill these islanders display in the management of
+their fragile canoes, guiding them on long voyages merely by the sun and
+stars, in a region where the trade-wind is seldom constant, is most
+surprising.
+
+I also made some little presents to the suite of the _Eigeh_, and the
+good people were lost in amazement at their costliness, till their
+attention was withdrawn from them to the ship itself. Their inquisitive
+eyes wandered in all directions, and their astonishment and admiration
+was loudly expressed. The _Eigeh_ contemplated the objects before him
+with more tranquillity, and asked but few questions, having already seen
+a ship, which his companions probably had not.
+
+He remarked, however, with wonder the number of our guns and muskets,
+which he called _Puas_; counted them several times over, and clasped his
+hands above his head to express his surprise. He intimated to us that he
+knew the effect they produced, by pointing to a gun, trying to imitate
+the sound of the report, and then closing his eyes and hanging his head.
+He explained this to his companions, who were so terrified by what he
+told them, that they would not again venture near the guns.
+
+Meanwhile our traffic was renewed, though rather confusedly, from the
+impatience of the islanders to dispose of their property; the _Eigeh_
+grew angry at this, and pressed me much to fire my _puas_ on the
+boisterous mob. Was he then really acquainted with their destructive
+power, and so indifferent about human life? Or, was he aware of the
+possibility of firing with blank cartridges? This remained uncertain.
+
+A telescope which I held in my hand attracted the observation of the
+chief, who took it for a gun. I directed him to look through it; but the
+sudden vision of the distant prospect brought so close to his eye that
+he could even distinguish the people on the strand, so terrified him,
+that nothing could induce him to touch the magic instrument again.
+
+He took much pains to persuade me to visit him on shore, embraced me
+repeatedly, and gave me to understand that we might cast anchor by his
+island, and that we should there have as many pigs as we pleased. At
+length he took my arm, and leading me to the railing, whence we could
+see the throngs of islanders busied with their barter, pointed to the
+women among them, whom he called _waraki_, shook his head, and said "No
+very good." Then he pointed to the island, and said in a kind tone,
+"Very good _waraki_." I very easily withstood this last temptation,
+strong as the _Eigeh_ seemed to think it; but I would willingly have
+seen the beautiful country, had it been possible to make a landing under
+the protection of our guns, for which however the wind was not
+favourable: a longer stay might besides have rendered our situation
+critical. We had a perfect calm, and were driven by a strong current
+towards the land; I therefore took advantage of the first puff of wind
+to make as much sail as I could, amidst the loud lamentations of the
+islanders, who expressed their regret in a mournful parting song.
+
+The _Eigeh_, perceiving that his invitations would not be accepted, took
+a friendly leave of us: he seized me again by my elbows, hung his head,
+repeated several times the word "_Marua_," and departed. The canoes did
+not follow him, but remained near us, as our vessel could make but
+little way on account of the slackness of the wind.
+
+The traffic was now over, and the attention of our companions therefore
+free to observe all our proceedings in the ship. Some of them thought to
+amuse us by making leaps into the air, and then begged for a reward. We
+did not disappoint them, and the tricks were reiterated, till a sudden
+gust of wind changed their merriment into consternation. The canoes
+immediately ahead of the ship could not leave its passage clear in time
+to prevent our running down great numbers of them. In a moment our
+majestic vessel had distanced the multitude of its diminutive
+attendants, leaving extreme confusion behind it. The islanders' skill in
+navigation, however, enabled them speedily to recover from the shock,
+and the wind falling again, they succeeded in overtaking us. In the
+effort to accomplish this, they left all those to their fate who were
+still swimming about in search of their lost oars, and took no notice
+whatever of their cries for assistance. We pointed their attention to
+their forsaken companions, but the volatile creatures only laughed, and
+not a single canoe would return to take them in. At length, towards
+nightfall, they left us with the cry of "_Marua! Marua!_"
+
+Among these islanders we observed the disease of elephantism, from which
+the Tahaitians suffer so much; otherwise they appeared healthy. If, as
+the Tahaitian captain said, they are subject to the Friendly Islanders,
+and must pay a yearly tribute to Tongatabu, the island Maouna, which
+Nature herself has made a strong fortress, and whose inhabitants are
+such fierce warriors, is probably excepted.
+
+The following day we surveyed the magnificent island of Pola. Its lofty
+mountain was enveloped in thick white clouds, which seemed to roll down
+its sides, while the majestic summit rose into a cloudless region above
+them. The most luxuriant vegetation covers even its highest points.
+From a considerable elevation down the sea-shore, the island presents a
+charming amphitheatre of villages and plantations, and confirmed us in
+the opinion, that the Navigators' Islands are the most beautiful in the
+Southern Ocean, and consequently in the whole world.
+
+The shore was thronged with people, some of whom pushed their canoes
+into the sea to approach us, and others stood quietly watching us as we
+sailed past. The recurrence of a calm enabled the islanders to reach us,
+and our traffic with them was carried on in the same manner as with the
+natives of the Flat Island.
+
+To avoid repetition, I shall only remark, that they seemed more shy than
+our yesterday's friends; that one of them offered us a red paint for
+sale; and that another cheated us. The former daubed his face with some
+of the colour to show us its use. Since none of them were painted with
+it, it is probably only used in war, or on grand occasions. The cheat
+remained, when the darkness had driven the other islanders homewards,
+bargaining with us for the price of a hog: a sack was lowered to him
+with the required payment, and when drawn up was found to contain a dog.
+The rascal had made off, but we sent a bullet after him, which seemed to
+produce no small dismay.
+
+On the following day, the 7th of April, having completed our
+observations, we took our course with a fresh trade-wind and full sails
+towards the north-west, in a direction where, according to the opinion
+of hydrographers, islands must lie.
+
+With respect to our geographical observations on the Navigators'
+Islands, I must make one remark--that all the longitudes found by us
+differ from those of La Pérouse by from 20 to 23', and the points
+observed lying so many miles more easterly than he considered them. His
+observations were grounded on the distance of the moon, which always
+gives a false longitude unless there is an opportunity of seeing the
+moon at equal distances, right and left, from the sun. Our longitudes
+were fixed by good chronometers, which having been regulated at Cape
+Venus, could not in so short a time have made any important error.
+
+[Illustration: CHART OF THE ISLANDS OF RADAK AND RALIK]
+
+
+
+
+RADACK CHAIN OF ISLANDS.
+
+
+
+
+RADACK CHAIN OF ISLANDS.
+
+
+On the 8th of April, at noon, we found ourselves, according to our
+observation, in the latitude 11° 24' South, and in the longitude 174°
+24'. We had left the north-west point of the island of Pola one hundred
+and forty miles behind us: the weather was fine, the horizon very clear,
+but we looked in vain from the mast-head for land.
+
+Hence we gave up any further search in this quarter, and directed our
+course to the north, for the shortest way to cut the Equator, and then,
+by the help of the north-east trade-wind, to reach Radack, where we
+intended to stop and make observations on the pendulum, the results of
+which, in the neighbourhood of the Equator, would be important to us. I
+appointed Otdia, belonging to this chain of islands, for our residence,
+as affording the most convenient anchorage for large ships.
+
+We were so much delayed by calms, that we could not till the 19th of
+April reach the ninth degree of south latitude. Here we encountered
+gusts of wind and torrents of rain, and a current carried us daily from
+twenty to thirty miles westward. When we were under three degrees south
+latitude, and one hundred and eighty degrees longitude, the current
+suddenly changed, and we were driven just as strongly to the East,--a
+circumstance too remarkable to be passed over in silence. At a distance
+from land in the vicinity of the Equator, the currents are always
+westerly. Here it was precisely contrary; from what cause I am unable to
+explain.
+
+From the fifth degree of south latitude to the Equator, we daily
+perceived signs of the neighbourhood of land. When we were exactly in 4°
+15' latitude, and 178° longitude, heavy gales brought swarms of
+butterflies and small land-birds to the ship; we must therefore have
+been near land, but we looked for it in vain; and this discovery remains
+for some future navigator.
+
+On the 22nd we cut the Equator in the longitude 179° 43', and once more
+found ourselves in our own Northern hemisphere--nearer to our native
+country, though the course by which we must reach it would be still
+longer than that we had traversed. Our old acquaintance the Great Bear
+showed himself once more, and we looked upon him with joy, as though he
+had brought intelligence from our distant homes.
+
+We now again employed Parrot's machine to draw up water from a depth of
+800 fathoms. Its temperature was only six degrees of Reaumur, while that
+of the water at the surface was twenty-three degrees.
+
+A tolerably strong wind, which blew during several successive days,
+brought us within sight of the Radack Islands, on the morning of the
+28th of April.
+
+To those who are yet unacquainted with these islands, and cannot or will
+not have recourse to my former voyage, I must be excused giving a few
+particulars concerning them.
+
+In the year 1816, in the ship Rurik, I discovered the chain of islands
+called by their inhabitants, Radack. It consists of several groups lying
+near each other, and these again of many small islands united by reefs
+and surrounding great basins of water. All these being formed by the
+coral insect, are very low, and still but thinly covered with soil, so
+that they want the luxuriance of vegetation usual in this climate; their
+population is scanty; and the most important island of a group commonly
+gives its name to the whole.
+
+The Radackers are tall and well made, of a dark brown complexion; their
+black hair is neatly bound up, and that of the women decorated with
+flowers and strings of muscle-shells. Their features are soft and
+agreeable, and many of both sexes may be considered beautiful. They
+attain a great age, and though less robust than some other South Sea
+islanders, and subsisting wholly on fish and vegetables, are generally
+healthy. In gentleness and good-nature they excel them all, even perhaps
+the Tahaitians.
+
+The chief or sovereign of all these islands is named Lamari: the chiefs
+of the particular groups are subordinate to him; and under these are the
+chiefs of the separate islands composing each group. The chief of the
+group Otdia is called Rarik. I gave his portrait in my former voyage,
+and was particularly pleased with him, and with another native of the
+same group, named Lagediak. An inhabitant named Kadu of the group Kawan,
+no native, but thrown there by a storm from the island of Ulle, made the
+voyage from Otdia to Unalaschka and back with us in the ship Rurik, and
+gained the good-will of the whole crew. He gave us some instructions in
+the Radack language; and on our second visit could interpret pretty well
+between us and the islanders, as he already spoke a little Russian: his
+portrait also is prefixed to one of the volumes of my former voyage.
+
+After an absence of eight years, I was now again in sight of my
+favourite Radack Islands, where I had passed several weeks among some of
+the best of Nature's children. Whoever has read my former narrative,
+will imagine the pleasure with which I anticipated my certain welcome; I
+pictured to myself a meeting on which the heavens themselves appeared
+to smile. It was an uncommonly fine day, and a fresh and favourable wind
+carried us quickly towards land. Our inquiring glances soon showed us
+from the deck, on the island Otdia, the airy groves of palms which
+enclose the residence of Rarik, and under whose shade I had so often sat
+among the friendly islanders. We could now distinguish boats sailing
+about on the inner basins, from one island to another, and a crowd of
+people running to the shore to gaze at the ship. I knew my timid friends
+too well, not to guess what was passing in their minds. I had indeed, on
+parting from them, promised to visit them again, but the length of time
+which had since elapsed had probably extinguished this hope; and they
+would easily perceive that the great three-masted ship they now saw was
+not the small two-masted Rurik of their acquaintance. If, therefore, the
+first glimpse of the vessel had flattered them with the expectation of
+seeing me again, their pleasure had been ere this converted into fear.
+Uncertain how they might be treated by the strangers, the women and
+children fled to the interior, and all the canoes were set in motion to
+carry their little possessions to some place of comparative safety. The
+most courageous among them advanced armed with spears to the shore,
+displaying their valour while the danger was yet distant.
+
+It is not surprising that timorous apprehensions should agitate these
+poor people on the appearance of a strange vessel. Their western
+neighbours, the inhabitants of the island of Ralick, and of the southern
+islands of the groups Mediuro and Arno, which are much more thickly
+peopled, sometimes attack them with a superior force, plunder them,
+destroy their fruit-trees, and leave them scarcely subsistence enough to
+preserve them from starving. They had indeed imbibed from the crew of
+the Rurik a favourable opinion of white people; but the ship which now
+approached them was a monster in comparison of it, and they were
+excusable in supposing it manned by another and unknown race.
+
+We now reached the group Otdia, and sailed close under the outward reef,
+towards the Schischmaref Strait, through which I proposed to enter the
+basin. The sight of the ship diffused terror throughout all the islands
+as we passed, and the natives fled for concealment to the forests. As we
+approached the Lagediak Strait, the breeze was sufficient to warrant us
+in venturing through it; I therefore gave up my intention of entering by
+the Schischmaref Strait where the wind would be against us, spread all
+sail, and soon rode on the placid waters of the basin. I would not
+however advise seamen, without an adequate inducement, to choose this
+strait: it is so narrow, that stones might easily be thrown across from
+either shore; while, on the contrary, the breadth of the Schischmaref
+Strait admits of tacking, and renders its passage easy with a good ship.
+The water in the Lagediak is so transparent, that in a depth of fourteen
+fathoms, every stone at the bottom is discernible; the officer who sat
+in the tops on the watch for shallows, deceived by this appearance,
+expected every moment that the ship would run aground.
+
+We continued to sail pleasantly on the beautiful smooth water of the
+basin, but the wind blowing directly off the island of Otdia, (after
+which the whole group is named, and where I hoped to meet with Rarik,) I
+was compelled, as it grew dark, to cast anchor before the island of
+Ormed, in a depth of thirty-two fathoms, on a bottom of fine coral sand.
+Till the ship entered this natural harbour, the courage of the islanders
+did not quite forsake them, as they supposed the entrance to be unknown
+to us, and the exterior coast they trusted to the protection of the
+surf; but when we had penetrated into the basin, the panic became
+universal. We observed a constant running backwards and forwards on the
+shore; canoes hastily laden and rowed away, some to the right and some
+to the left, but none coming near us. The whole island of Ormed seemed,
+on our arrival, to have fairly given up the ghost. It was not till after
+dark that we could perceive any trace of life upon it; large fires were
+then kindled in two places at some distance from each other, while many
+smaller ones were flickering between them. We could also hear a sort of
+shrieking song, accompanied by the drum, which I knew to be their manner
+of calling on the gods for help, and which proved the extent of the
+alarm we had occasioned. This religious rite lasted through the night,
+but with the morning's dawn my friends had again disappeared, and the
+stillness of death prevailed as before.
+
+We weighed anchor, and endeavoured by tacking to reach Otdia; and in so
+doing, often came very close upon the little picturesque bright green
+islands which studded the sparkling lake. The fresh morning breeze
+wafted aromatic odours towards us; but the huts of the inhabitants stood
+empty and desolate. When we were near Otdia, we again descried canoes
+sailing as close as possible to the shore. The population was busy on
+the strand, but no one seemed rightly to know what should be done in
+this alarming crisis. We next saw a long procession of islanders,
+bearing branches of palm as symbols of peace, taking advantage of the
+ebb-tide to cross the reef towards Otdia, and carrying baskets of
+cocoa-nuts and other fruits on poles. Hence it appeared that my friends
+had yielded to their destiny, and hoped to win the favour of the
+intruders by humility and presents. From their former dismay, I
+anticipated that Kadu was absent, or he would have inspired his
+countrymen with more confidence.
+
+We dropped anchor at noon opposite Otdia, on the same spot where the
+Rurik formerly rode. I then ordered a small two-oared boat to be
+lowered, and to make my first visit as little formidable as possible to
+my friends, went ashore with only Dr. Eschscholz and two sailors. We
+rowed direct to Rarik's residence, where no human being was visible. A
+little canoe, bringing three men from a neighbouring island, now neared
+the shore, but immediately endeavoured to escape on observing that we
+steered towards it; in vain I waved a white handkerchief, a signal I had
+formerly been accustomed to make; they persisted in crowding sail, and
+taking all possible pains to get out of our reach; but their extreme
+anxiety now rendered that difficult which they usually perform with
+great dexterity. While they disputed vehemently among themselves, we
+gained materially upon them, and their entangled ropes refusing the
+assistance of their sails, they were on the point of trusting to their
+skill in swimming for safety, when two words from me changed all this
+terror into equally clamorous joy. I called to them "_Totabu_," the word
+into which they had tortured my name; and "_Aidarah_," an expression
+signifying both _friend_ and _good_. They stood motionless, waiting for
+a repetition of the cry, to convince themselves that their ears had not
+deceived them; but on my reiterating "_Totabu Aidarah_," they burst into
+the wildest acclamations of joy; called aloud to the shore, "_Hei
+Totabu, Totabu!_" and leaving their canoe to take care of itself, swam
+to land, incessantly repeating their exclamations of joy.
+
+The inhabitants of Otdia, who had been observing us from behind the
+bushes, now that the well-known name resounded through the island,
+sprang from their concealment, giving vent to their rapture in frolic
+gestures, dances, and songs. Numbers hurried to the strand; others ran
+into the water as high as their hips, to be the first to welcome us. I
+was now generally recognised, and called Rarik, because, according to
+the custom prevailing here, I had sealed my friendship with that chief
+by an exchange of names. They also recognised Dr. Eschscholz, who had
+been of my former expedition, and heartily rejoiced in seeing again
+their beloved "_Dein Name_." This was the name he had borne among them;
+because when they asked his name, and he did not understand the
+question, several of our people called to him "_Dein name_," which was
+immediately adopted as his designation.
+
+Four islanders lifted me from the boat, and carried me ashore, to where
+Lagediak awaited me with open arms, and pressed me most cordially to his
+bosom. The powerful tones of the muscle horn now resounded through the
+woods, and our friends announced the approach of Rarik. He soon appeared
+running at full speed towards us, and embraced me several times,
+endeavouring in every possible way to express his joy at our return.
+
+Though the friends to whom I was thus restored were but poor ignorant
+savages, I was deeply affected by the ardour of their reception; their
+unsophisticated hearts beat with sincere affection towards me,--and how
+seldom have I felt this happy consciousness among the civilized nations
+of the world!
+
+Even the women and children now made their appearance; and, among them,
+Rarik's loquacious mother, who with much gesticulation made me a long
+speech, of which I understood very little. When she had concluded, Rarik
+and Lagediak, each offering me an arm, led me to the house of the
+former.
+
+Upon a verdant spot before it, surrounded and shaded by bread-fruit
+trees, young girls were busily spreading mats for Dr. Eschscholz and
+myself to sit on. Rarik and Lagediak seated themselves facing us, and
+the mother (eighty years of age) by my side, at a little distance. The
+other islanders formed a compact circle around us; the nearest line
+seating themselves, and those behind standing, to secure a better view
+of us. Some climbed the trees; and fathers raised their children in
+their arms, that they might see over the heads of the people. The women
+brought baskets of flowers, and decorated us with garlands; and Rarik's
+mother, drawing from her ears the beautiful white flower of the lily
+kind, so carefully cultivated here as an indispensable ornament of the
+female sex, did her best to fasten it into mine with strings of grass,
+while the people expressed their sympathy by continual cries of
+"_Aidarah_." In the mean time the young girls were employed in pressing
+into muscle-shells the juice of the Pandanus, which they presented to
+us, with a sort of sweet-meat called Mogan, prepared from the same
+fruit; the flavour of both is very agreeable.
+
+We were now overwhelmed with questions from all sides; to which, from
+our imperfect knowledge of their language, we could return but few
+answers. Rarik and Lagediak expressed their astonishment at the size of
+our ship, inquired what was become of the Rurik, and, whether their
+friends Timaro, Tamiso, &c. (Schischmaref and Chamisso) were still
+living, how they were, and why they did not accompany us.
+
+After the first ebullition of joy at our meeting, I thought I perceived
+by the deportment of Rarik, that he had something on his mind; he
+seemed conscious of some fault, and in vain endeavoured, under friendly
+looks and words, to conceal a latent uneasiness. I even thought I could
+trace a similar feeling in his mother and Lagediak. Pained by these
+appearances, I asked an explanation. Rarik could no longer control his
+feelings, but immediately fell, like a repentant child, in tears upon my
+neck, without however confessing the cause of his agitation. On quitting
+the island eight years previously, I had appointed Kadu to the
+guardianship of the plants and animals we left behind, with the
+strongest injunctions on all the islanders to avoid injuring them, and
+threats of exacting a severe account on my return for any such offence.
+I had not yet ventured to inquire after them, fearful that the report
+might prove unsatisfactory, and cast a cloud over the pleasure of our
+meeting. It now occurred to me that Rarik must in some way have injured
+Kadu; perhaps he might even have put him to death. I looked sternly in
+Rarik's face, while I inquired after him, but he answered me quite
+innocently that Kadu was well and residing on the Aur group of islands
+with their chief Lamari. The old mother then took up the conversation,
+and very diffusively related that Lamari, soon after our departure, had
+come hither with a fleet, and forcibly carried to Aur all the animals,
+plants, tools, pieces of iron,--in short, whatever we had left on the
+island.
+
+Lagediak confirmed this tale, and added, that Lamari had demanded of
+every islander, under pain of death, the last piece of iron in his
+possession. Kadu, he said, soon after our departure, had married a
+handsome girl, the daughter or relation of the chief of Ormed; had been
+raised to the dignity of a Tamon-ellip, or great-commander, by Lamari;
+and having freely made over the half of his treasures to this personage,
+(a step which I had myself advised,) had been permitted to retain
+peaceable possession of the remainder. It was also by his own desire
+that Lamari had removed him to Aur, where he continued his
+superintendence of the plants and animals. Kadu had commissioned
+Lagediak to relate all these circumstances to me, with a request that I
+would visit him at Aur; an invitation which with regret I was prevented
+accepting by the large size of my ship.
+
+I was glad however that Kadu had settled in Aur, as I hoped that the
+animals and plants with which I had enriched these islands would
+flourish under his care; and I learnt from Rarik that when he was a
+short time before in Aur, on a visit to his father, they had propagated,
+and were doing well. Swine and goats already formed part of their
+festival provisions, and Rarik had himself partaken of such a feast. I
+rejoiced in this information, and in the promise it afforded, that
+through my means the time may be approaching when the barbarous custom
+of sacrificing the third or fourth child of every marriage, from fear of
+famine, may wholly cease.
+
+The cat was the only animal of those I had left at Otdia which remained
+there; and it was no longer of the domestic species; it had become very
+numerous and entirely wild, but as yet had occasioned no sensible
+diminution in the number of rats. It may be hoped, however, that as the
+cats have no other food, those voracious pests of the gardens may at
+length be exterminated. These cats, under the influence of a strange
+climate, and in an undomesticated state, may perhaps undergo some change
+of properties and habits, by which naturalists, always well pleased to
+enlarge their zoological lists, may be led to consider them as an
+unknown species of tiger. To obviate this error, I advertise such gentry
+beforehand, that the animal in question is absolutely nothing more than
+the ordinary European household cat.
+
+Of the plants which we had introduced to the Radackers, the vine alone
+had failed. Lagediak pointed out to me the spot on which we had planted
+it. It had withered, but not till, from the extreme fruitfulness of the
+soil, its tendrils had reached the tops of the highest trees.
+
+I was not surprised that Kadu should have married soon after our
+departure a native of the island of Ormed. The girls there are
+particularly handsome, and we had some suspicion of an affair of the
+heart, from the sudden change in his previous determination to accompany
+us to Russia, which took place immediately after an excursion he had
+made with Mr. Chamisso to Ormed. Fortunately for himself, he preferred
+a quiet domestic life under his own beautiful sky, to tempting the
+severity of our Northern climate, which would probably soon have
+destroyed him; and fortunately for his countrymen, he remained to
+cultivate among them the beneficial arts of gardening and breeding of
+cattle.
+
+The melancholy of Rarik still continuing after all this explanation, I
+again inquired the cause. He then tremblingly led me by the arm to the
+cocoa-tree, against which I had fastened a copper-plate, bearing the
+name of my ship, and the date of my discovery of the island, and
+denouncing severe punishment in case of its removal. It had
+disappeared:--how easily might Rarik and Lagediak, and the crowd of
+people, all equally dejected, who followed us, have excused themselves
+by an assertion, that Lamari, on his predatory expedition, had carried
+off this plate; but they were too honourable. Imploring my pardon, they
+candidly confessed that they had been deficient in their care of
+it,--that it had been stolen, and that they had been unable to discover
+the thief.
+
+Rejoiced to find that their melancholy arose from no cause more serious
+than this, I cordially embraced my friends, while they wept for joy in
+my arms. Their happiness was now complete, and the multitude returned
+with us, shouting for joy, to Rarik's dwelling, where an _Eb_, or
+artless opera, was represented; the subject,--my crew of the Rurik and
+myself: each song celebrated one of us individually, and the praises of
+the whole were chanted in the concluding chorus. I regretted much that I
+could not understand them better. The words, _moll_ (iron), _aidarah_
+(friend), _tamon_ (commander), _oa ellip_ (great boat), and Kadu's name,
+were frequently repeated. The Radackers preserve their traditions in
+these poetic representations; and as they assemble every evening to
+amuse themselves with dancing and singing, the children, while taking
+part in these innocent pleasures, learn the history of their country in
+the most agreeable manner, and communicate it in their turn to
+succeeding generations.
+
+When the dramatic piece was concluded, and I had distributed all the
+little presents I had brought, I returned to my vessel, my friends
+promising me a visit the same day.
+
+I now had all the boats lowered to bring ashore our tent and pendulum
+apparatus. The islanders received the sailors with great alacrity,
+brought them cocoa-nuts, helped them to disembark, and set up the tent,
+and appeared delighted with our intention of establishing ourselves on
+land.
+
+Rarik and Lagediak were the first who visited us in the afternoon. They
+rowed several times in their little canoe round the ship, contemplated
+it very attentively, and with emotions of wonder, repeatedly exclaiming,
+_Erico! Erico!_--a word denoting admiration. When I met them upon deck,
+they forgot to salute me, stood at first riveted to the spot like
+statues, till an "O, o!" stretched to a minute's length, gave vent at
+last to their astonishment. I led them round, and showed them all that
+could interest them, their surprise increasing with every novelty they
+saw.
+
+Lagediak inquired if the ship and all its appurtenances had been made in
+Russia; and on my answering in the affirmative, exclaimed, _Tamon
+Russia, ellip, ellip!_ words which my readers will now be prepared to
+understand.
+
+Lagediak soon commenced an admeasurement of the ship in all directions,
+with a string he had brought for this purpose: having obtained the
+dimensions of the ship's body, he next climbed the masts, to measure the
+yards and sails. My friends also expressed much surprise at the great
+number of men on board, and tried to count them. At the number ten, they
+always made a knot on a piece of string, and then began again. In
+comparison with the compliment of the Rurik, (only twenty men,) my
+present crew must have appeared extremely numerous.
+
+A crowd of the islanders soon came on board, without the least
+hesitation or fear. Though very merry, and quite at home, they were all
+well-behaved and modest. Incessant laughter pealed from below, where
+these lovers of mirth had mingled with our sailors, in all sorts of
+tricks and jests; the different parties danced and sang alternately,
+each laughing heartily at the performances of the other. They exchanged
+embraces and presents; of the guests especially not one was
+empty-handed: they had brought their finest fruit, and little specimens
+of their handiwork; and each, with unaffected cordiality, lavished the
+contents of his cornucopia on a chosen friend. The setting sun gave the
+signal for separation, and it was obeyed amidst mutual promises of
+meeting again on the morrow.
+
+Lagediak, after finishing his measurements, did not again move from my
+side. His desire of knowledge was boundless; nor could the explanations
+I was obliged to give upon the most insignificant articles satisfy his
+curiosity. On learning that we could stay only a few days at Otdia, he
+again became very sorrowful, and most earnestly pressed me to spend the
+remainder of my life here. He left nothing untried to procure my
+acquiescence in this wish: love, ambition, glory, were successively held
+out as lures: I should have the most beautiful woman of the islands for
+my wife,--should kill the tyrant and usurper Lamari, as he had killed
+his predecessor, and should reign in his stead Tamon of Radack. As I let
+him talk on without interruption, he supposed I should accede to his
+plans. In his joy over this offspring of his own imagination, he jumped
+about the cabin like a child, and, on quitting the ship, earnestly
+enjoined me to say nothing to Rarik of our project.
+
+Lagediak, on visiting me again the following morning, brought me roasted
+fish, bread-fruit, and fresh cocoa-nuts, for breakfast: he drank coffee
+with me, and appeared to think it not much amiss. He brought with him
+his son, about thirteen or fourteen years of age, to present to me. This
+interesting boy appeared to inherit the disposition of his amiable
+father. His intelligent countenance afforded a promise, which the
+modesty and propriety of his conduct confirmed: he might easily have
+been educated for our most refined society.
+
+Lagediak soon recurred to his yesterday's project of making me chief of
+Radack. He sketched the plan of its execution, and entered upon the
+further measures which would be requisite to give power and stability to
+the new government. We were first to sail to Aur and vanquish Lamari,
+and then to attack the hostile group of the Mediuro islands, the
+conquest of which would render me master of the whole chain of Radack.
+Animated by these valiant projects, he flourished his fist as if
+already in battle, till it encountered a tea-cup, which fell in a
+thousand fragments to the ground. His natural timidity suddenly banished
+the heroism into which his subject had wrought him: he feared he had
+done me an injury, and consequently incurred my displeasure. I
+re-assured him on this head, but gave him much pain by representing the
+impossibility of my remaining in Radack, as my duty called me elsewhere.
+After some minutes of silent consideration, he led his son to me, and
+begged I would take him with me to Russia. I was then obliged to explain
+to him that I should never return to Radack, and that if his son
+accompanied me, he must take leave of him for ever. This was too much
+for the father's heart; he embraced his son, and would no longer think
+of a separation. He was also overcome with sorrow at the idea of seeing
+me for the last time; and a little self-interest probably mingled in the
+melancholy look he cast upon a hatchet which I had given him, as he
+exclaimed--"I shall never get any iron again!"
+
+I now turned the conversation on the Mediuro, and expressed a wish to
+know how the campaign had prospered, which Lamari, when I was last here,
+was about to undertake against those islands. He understood me
+perfectly, and taxed to the utmost his powers of pantomime to give me an
+account of the war, in which he had himself been engaged.
+
+Lamari's fleet, as I understood my informant, consisted of forty
+vessels; and therefore, judging by the size of the boats here, the whole
+army could not be above four hundred strong, including the women, who,
+from the rear, lend assistance to the combatants by throwing stones at
+the enemy, and by assuming the surgeon's office. This force was
+collected from the whole Radack chain; the war was bloody, and lasted
+six whole days. Five of the enemy were slain, and Lamari gained a
+splendid victory with the loss of one man! The fleet returned
+triumphant, laden with cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, and pandanas. Kadu had
+especially distinguished himself: he was armed with a sabre and lance,
+and wore a white shirt, and wide trowsers, which formidable attire was
+completed by a red cap on his head. All the hatchets, above a hundred
+in number, which I had given to the Radackers, and which Lamari
+afterwards appropriated, were fastened on long poles and distributed
+among the best warriors; this gave the army of Lamari a great advantage;
+so that I might take credit to myself for the happy issue of the
+campaign.
+
+Lagediak informed me further that Lamari had also determined on an
+expedition to the Odia[6] group of islands, belonging to the Ralik
+chain. The inhabitants of these had heard something of the treasures
+which the Radackers had acquired by my visit, and their rapacity being
+excited, had made an attack on the Kawen group of the Radack chain,
+without the usual declaration of war, and thus taking the inhabitants by
+surprise, had beaten and plundered them, and returned home laden with
+booty, though the Kawen people had made a valorous resistance, and
+killed two of the Odians without losing a man themselves. This appeared
+to have occurred about a year before my arrival, and the vengeance of
+Lamari had been hitherto delayed; the levying and provisioning an army
+being here a work of time. Radack is so thinly peopled that all the
+islands must send their quota of men, which, on account of the extension
+of the chain, cannot be very speedily performed. For a voyage to the
+Ralik chain and back, victualling for four weeks at least is necessary,
+as the return is against the trade-wind. The Mogan, which is principally
+used in these expeditions, is very nutritious, and the Radackers are
+very moderate, so that a small quantity suffices for their support,
+otherwise they could not provision their canoes for voyages of this
+length.
+
+I was surprised to find Lagediak perfectly secure of the success of this
+undertaking, and expressed my fears that his countrymen might possibly
+be worsted, but he continued sanguine,--for the hatchets with which his
+brethren were armed, the sword, and dread-inspiring costume of Kadu,
+were sources of confidence which could not be abated.
+
+During this conversation in the cabin, several islanders came on board,
+and the noise from below resembled that of the preceding day. Rarik had
+also arrived, decorated with fresh garlands of flowers, and had brought
+me some trifling presents. The generally-dreaded Langin, Tamon of
+Egmedio, presented himself to me this day, for the first time: he
+appeared glad to see me; but when on deck, the size of the ship, and the
+number of the crew, impressed him with so much alarm, that his very
+teeth chattered. This anguish attack continued some time, but was at
+length cured by our friendly deportment.
+
+Accompanied by Rarik and Lagediak, I rowed ashore, and found Messrs.
+Preus and Lenz already busy with the pendulum. They were perfectly
+satisfied with the natives, who had behaved very well, and, except by
+special permission to come nearer, had kept at the appointed distance
+from the tent. They usually sat in a circle round the place, where the
+observations were made, and gazed with wonder at the astronomer who had
+so much business with the sun, taking him no doubt for a conjuror.
+
+In the hours of recreation, we allowed them to come to the tent, and
+they always joyfully availed themselves of the permission, performing a
+thousand little services, which made them appear really necessary to
+us, yet remaining invariably so modest, gentle, and friendly, that my
+company declared them to be, without exception, the most amiable people
+on earth.
+
+Rarik took me to his house, to witness another dramatic representation:
+the subject was the war on Mediuro. Women sang, or rather screamed, the
+deeds of the warriors; and the men in their dances endeavoured, by angry
+gestures and brandishing their lances, to describe the valour of the
+combatants. I expressed to Rarik my wish to know more of their method of
+warfare; he and Lagediak in consequence assembled two troops, which they
+opposed to each other at a short distance, as hostile armies; the first
+rank, in both, consisting of men, and the second of women. The former
+were armed with sticks instead of lances, the latter had their baskets
+filled with pandana seeds for stones, and their hair, instead of being
+as usual, tastefully bound up, hung dishevelled and wild about their
+heads, giving them the appearance of maniacs. Rarik placed himself at
+the head of one troop, and Lagediak of the other: both gave the signal
+for attack, by blowing their muscle horns. The adverse forces
+approached; but instead of the battle began a comic dance, in which the
+two armies emulated each other in grimaces, furious gesticulations, and
+a distortion of the eyes, which left only the whites visible, while the
+women shrieked a war-song, which, if their opponents had been lovers of
+harmony, would assuredly have put them to flight. The leaders on each
+side took no share in these violent exertions, but stood still,
+animating their troops by the tones of the muscle horn. When exhausted
+by these efforts, the horns were silent, and the armies separated by
+mutual consent, looking on while some of the most valiant from each side
+came forward to challenge with threats and abuse a champion of the enemy
+to single combat. This was represented by dancing and songs, and
+occasional movements with the hand, as if to throw the lance, which the
+antagonist sought to avoid by dexterously springing aside. The
+respective armies and their leaders animated the courage of their
+warriors by battle-songs, till the horns were blown again; the armies
+once more slowly approached each other; the champions retired into
+their ranks, and the battle was renewed with a prodigious noise; spears
+waved in the air; pandana seed flew from the delicate hands of the
+female warriors, over the heads of their husbands, upon the enemy, but
+the armies never came near enough to be really engaged. The leaders
+remained in front loudly blowing their horns, and sometimes giving
+commands. At length, by accident or design, one of Lagediak's men fell;
+the battle was now over, the victory decided, and the signal given for
+drawing off the forces. Both armies were so exhausted, that they threw
+themselves on the grass, and amidst laughing and merriment, gave
+themselves up to repose.
+
+A large sailing-boat now put ashore, and an old man with white hair and
+beard was lifted from it; his shrivelled skin hung loosely over his
+emaciated form, and his weakness was so extreme, that he could only
+approach us by crawling on his hands and feet: Rarik and Lagediak went
+to meet and welcome him. It was my old acquaintance, Langediu, Tamon of
+Ormed. When our frigate lay at anchor before his island, he had not
+ventured, he said, to visit us, not knowing whether we were friends or
+foes; but when he heard that Totabu was arrived, he determined to make
+an effort to see me once more before his death. The old man crawled up
+to me and embraced me, shedding tears of joy; he talked a great deal,
+and spoke of Kadu being with Lamari in Aur.
+
+On my former visit, the traces of old age were scarcely perceptible in
+Langediu; but in the intervening eight years they had increased rapidly;
+still, although his body was so weak that he could only crawl on
+all-fours, he retained all the faculties of his mind, all his original
+vivacity and good-humour, and his facetious remarks excited the
+merriment of the whole assembly. I have in many instances observed that
+at Radack, old age brings with it no particular disease, and that the
+mind remains unimpaired till its mortal covering sinks into the grave. A
+fine climate, moderate labour, and a vegetable diet, probably all
+contribute to produce this effect.
+
+Langediu having intimated his wish to see the Oa ellip, I immediately
+rowed in my boat to the ship, followed by him in his Oa warro, or war
+canoe: he was much pleased with the vessel, and all that he saw, and not
+less so with the little presents he received; but a circumstance
+occurred that caused the honourable old man some chagrin: one of his
+attendants having concluded a friendship with the cook, took advantage
+of it to secrete a knife in his canoe; the cook missed the knife, and
+his suspicions immediately fell on his friend. His person and canoe were
+searched, and on the discovery of the stolen treasure the criminal
+confessed his fault. He trembled exceedingly, probably remembering the
+flogging one of his countrymen received on board the Rurik for a similar
+offence. As my stay was this time to be so short, I considered the
+flogging superfluous, and magnanimously forgave him, with a reproof, and
+an admonition never to steal again. Poor old Langediu was much hurt. He
+crawled about the ship in an agitated manner, exclaiming, _Kabuderih emo
+aidarah_ (stealing not good), severely reprimanded, and threatened the
+offender,--showed him all the presents received from us, observing how
+much we must be shocked to be robbed, notwithstanding all our
+generosity. He then led him to the guns, made him remark their great
+number, and said, _Manih Emich_, _manih ni_, _ma_, (kill the island,
+kill the cocoa-trees, bread-fruit trees). Probably the old man had
+learned from Kadu the effect the guns would produce. After much chafing
+and scolding, he ordered the offender back into the canoe, and forbade
+him to come again on board:--not a word did the thief utter the whole
+time, and instantly obeyed the order to quit the vessel, but the old
+master could not be pacified. He frequently repeated, "_Kabuderih emo
+aidarah_," and his visit afforded him no more pleasure. He took an early
+leave of us, requesting that we would come to him on his island.
+
+The face of the thief appeared familiar to me; and Lagediak, in answer
+to my inquiries, informed me, laughing, that this was the brother of the
+man who had been beaten on board the Rurik. The propensity to theft
+appears to be a family failing. No other Radacker during our stay
+attempted to purloin the smallest trifle.
+
+In the afternoon, a large boat sailed through the Lagediak Straits into
+the basin. I flattered myself with the arrival of some of my friends
+from Aur, perhaps Kadu himself; but it was the gay Labugar from Eregub,
+brought hither by curiosity, having seen us sail past his island.
+
+When he heard who the strangers were, he immediately came to the ship.
+His joy at seeing me again was very great; but he regretted much that
+his friend Timaro, with whom he had exchanged names, was not of our
+company. The spirits of Labugar had lost during eight years none of
+their sprightliness; but his face looked much older, and his hair had
+become grey.
+
+The fine weather induced me on the 3rd of May to visit Langediu on the
+island of Ormed; he received me with the greatest joy, and offered me
+his most costly treasures as presents. The children, grand-children, and
+great-grand-children of the good old man assembled round his house, and
+represented a dramatic piece for my amusement, in which Langediu himself
+played a principal part, and astonished me by the animation of his
+action and singing. As this was one of the best representations I have
+seen in Radack, I will describe it, in the hope that my readers also
+will not be uninterested in it.
+
+The number of the _dramatis personæ_ was twenty-six, thirteen men and
+thirteen women, who seated themselves in the following order on a spot
+of smooth turf. Ten men sat in a semicircle, and opposite to them ten
+women in a semicircle also, so that by uniting the points, an entire
+circle would have been formed, but a space of about six feet was left at
+both ends, in each of which sat an old woman provided with a drum. This
+drum, made of the hollow trunk of a tree, is about three feet long, six
+inches in diameter at each end, narrowed like an hour-glass, to half
+that thickness in the middle. Both ends are covered with the skin of the
+shark: it is held under the arm, and struck with the palm of the hand.
+In the middle of the circle, old Langediu took his station with a
+handsome young woman, sitting back to back. The whole party were
+elegantly adorned about the head, and the females about the body also,
+with garlands of flowers. Outside the circle stood two men with muscle
+horns. The hollow tones of these horns are the signal for a chorus
+performed by the whole company, with violent movements of the arms and
+gesticulations meant to be in consonance with the words. When this
+ceased, a duet from the pair in the middle was accompanied by the drums
+and horns only; Langediu fully equalling his young companion in
+animation. The chorus then began again, and this alternation was
+repeated several times, till the young songstress whose motions had been
+growing more and more vehement, suddenly fell down as dead. Langediu's
+song then became lower and more plaintive: he bent over the body, and
+seemed to express the deepest sorrow; the whole circle joined in his
+lamentations, and the play concluded.
+
+Deficient as was my knowledge of the language, I was still able clearly
+to understand the subject of this tragedy, which represented a marriage
+ceremony. The young girl was forced to accept of a husband whom she did
+not love, and preferred death to such an union. Perhaps the reason of
+old Langediu's playing the part of the lover might be, to give more
+probability to the young bride's objections and resolution.
+
+The young females assembled here, among whom the deceased bride of
+Langediu soon reappeared, fresh and lively as ever, reminded me of
+Kadu's assertion, that the women of Ormed were the handsomest in Radack.
+Some of them were really very attractive, and their flowery adornments
+extremely becoming. These people have more taste than any other of the
+South Sea islanders; and the manner in which the women dress their hair,
+and decorate it with flowers, would have a beautiful effect even in an
+European ball-room. When the actors had recovered from the fatigue of
+their performance, dinner, which some of the females had been long
+preparing in the hut, was served to us. Only a few of the persons
+assembled enjoyed the honour of partaking our meal. Some of these were
+females. The ground of Langediu's hut was covered with matting, on which
+we sat, and the provisions were placed on clean cocoa-leaves in the
+middle. Every one had a cocoa-leaf for a plate. Upon the dishes were
+laid wooden spoons, with which the guests helped themselves,--an
+improvement since my former visit to Radack, when their mode was to help
+themselves from the dish with their hands. Langediu remarked, that the
+order of his table pleased me, and said _Mamuan Russia mogai_ (the
+Russians eat so). I rejoiced in the increased civilization denoted by
+this more becoming mode of eating; probably introduced by Kadu, who had
+seen it during his stay among us. I enjoyed a still greater pleasure,
+when after the first course of baked and bread-fruits, came one of yams,
+which I had brought hither from the Sandwich Islands. At Otdia, I had
+been told that Lamari had carried away to Aur all the plants I had left
+behind. I was therefore much surprised at the sight of the yams. They
+perfectly supply the place of our potatoes, are wholesome and pleasant,
+and, if cultivated with moderate industry, are a certain resource
+against famine. Langediu told me, that Kadu had planted the yams on
+Ormed, and after dinner showed me a pretty large field very well
+stocked with them.
+
+The delightful feelings with which I surveyed the new plantation may be
+imagined, when it is recollected, that these poor islanders, from want
+of means of subsistence, are compelled, assuredly with heavy hearts, to
+murder their own offspring, and that this yam alone is sufficient to
+remove so horrible a necessity. I might joyfully affirm, that through my
+instrumentality the distressed mother need no longer look forward to the
+birth of her third or fourth child with the dreadful consciousness that
+she endured all her pain only to deliver a sacrifice to the hand of the
+murderer. When she should clasp her child to her breast, and see her
+husband look on it with a father's tenderness, they might both remember
+"Totabu," and the beneficent plants which he had given them. I beg
+pardon for this digression, and return to our dinner.
+
+After the yams, a number of dishes were produced, prepared from the
+powdered cocoa-wood, which is made with water into a thick paste, and
+then baked in small cakes: it has no taste at all, and cannot be very
+nutritious. A dessert of Mogan and Pandana juice concluded the repast.
+The drink was cocoa-milk, sucked from a small hole made in the nut. The
+conversation, in which the females, who are treated extremely well, took
+part, was very lively, but perfectly decorous. I wished to understand
+more of it: from single words, I inferred that they were speaking of the
+ship and of the dramatic entertainment, and should have been glad to
+have contributed my share to the general amusement. After I had
+delighted the host and the amiable company by presents of hatchets,
+knives, scissors, and necklaces, which latter were by no means in as
+great estimation here as on the Navigators' Islands, I took my leave,
+and returned early in the evening to the ship.
+
+Time passed very quickly at Otdia, as it usually does when pleasantly
+spent; and, to the great sorrow of our friends, the day of our departure
+drew near. On Sunday the sailors were allowed to amuse themselves on
+shore; and as there were some musicians among them, they carried their
+instruments with them, to take leave of the islanders with a brilliant
+musical festival. The jubilee that ensued exceeds all description. The
+whole population of Otdia and the neighbouring islands assembled round
+our tent, and the music acted upon them like Huon's horn in Oberon. They
+danced and leaped about, sometimes hurrying the sailors into similar
+antics, and forming altogether a scene which would have provoked the
+most solemn philosopher to laughter. I was much pleased with observing
+the cordial good-will that subsisted between the natives and my crew,
+and with the reflection that this second visit would also leave on the
+minds of the Radackers an impression favourable to white men.
+
+The females looked on at a distance during these gambols. Decorum did
+not allow them to mingle in them, and also restrained them from ever
+visiting the ship.
+
+Among the groups I observed a crowd of children assembled round an
+elderly sailor, who was amusing and caressing them. He had been on duty
+outside the tent ever since our arrival at the islands; and as the
+Russians are particularly fond of children, these little creatures had
+grown quite sociable with him. A pretty lively little girl appeared his
+especial favourite. She was allowed to play him all kinds of tricks,
+without being reproved; and even when she pulled him by the hair, he
+pulled again, and seemed as much entertained as she was.
+
+When the islanders learned the day fixed for our departure, they visited
+us on board in greater numbers than ever, always bringing presents with
+them. They spoke of parting with great sorrow, and earnestly pressed us
+to return soon. With respect to the presents we had recently made them,
+they expressed their fears that Lamari would again plunder them, when he
+should learn that we had been there. I therefore commissioned Lagediak,
+in the presence of a great number of islanders, to inform Lamari, from
+me, that if he should ever presume to plunder the possessor of the
+smallest article presented by us, whenever white men should again visit
+Radack, they would, without fail, take signal and severe vengeance upon
+him. He understood me, and promised to execute my commission.
+
+Lagediak now seldom left me; and his grief at our approaching separation
+was really affecting. On the morning of the appointed day, the 6th of
+May, when we had begun to weigh anchor, he came in great haste in a
+large canoe, and brought a number of young cocoa-plants. On my inquiring
+for what purpose he intended them, he answered, that he wished me to
+plant them in Russia, in remembrance of him. I then recollected his
+having once asked me if cocoa-trees grew in Russia, and that I had of
+course replied in the negative. He had then turned the conversation on
+some other subject, and I thought no more of it. He had however resolved
+on enriching my country with this fine fruit, and had reserved for the
+day of our parting this last proof of his regard. I explained to him
+that it was far too cold in Russia for the cocoa-trees to flourish, and
+that for that reason I was unwilling to rob him of his plants. He
+mourned much over the failure of his kind intentions, packed up his
+plants again, and when he saw our sails spread and our departure
+inevitable, took leave of us like a child that is forcibly separated
+from beloved parents. To the rest of our friends we had bidden farewell
+the evening before.
+
+We sailed through the Schischmaref straits, and then between the Otdia
+and Aur groups, whence we steered directly to the group Ligiep, in order
+to lay down correctly its eastern coasts, for which, in my former
+voyage, circumstances had been unfavourable. On the following day we
+reached the southern edge of this group, and sailed near enough to see
+from thence clear over to the northern. We then proceeded westward,
+keeping always near enough to the islands to distinguish objects upon
+them with the naked eye. I now plainly perceived that the course I had
+taken in the Rurik had prevented my seeing the whole of this group; and
+the result is, that it appears on the accompanying map, according to our
+present correct survey, half as large again as I had before represented
+it.
+
+The inhabitants of Ligiep, on seeing the ship, directly put out to sea
+from between the reefs, in a crowd of sailing canoes, to follow us, but
+were too timid to come within cannon-shot. We lay-to, when they also
+took in their sails, but contented themselves with contemplating us from
+a safe distance; and as the favourable weather would not permit us to
+waste more time, we continued our voyage without making farther attempts
+to entice them to the ship.
+
+On the north-west, of the group Ligiep we found several larger islands,
+which, being covered with fine cocoa-trees, induced the supposition that
+they may be more thickly peopled.
+
+We also found, as is shown upon the map, two broad entrances to the
+inland sea round which this group is scattered, which, after a very
+accurate examination, appeared perfectly safe and convenient for the
+passage of the largest ship of the line, since, according to their
+direction, it is possible, by help of the trade-wind, to sail in and out
+without tacking. There seems no doubt that the interior of this group
+offers the best anchorage; and should any navigator wish to put into
+Radack, I recommend this harbour to him as the most commodious.
+
+At noon the north-west point of the Ligiep group lay about a mile off us
+due east, and we found by a close observation the latitude to be 10° 3'
+40" North, and the longitude 190° 58' 3".
+
+Directly after this observation, I had all sail set, and steered with a
+fresh wind to the north-west, in the hope of falling in with the group
+Ralik.
+
+As darkness came on, we again took in most of the sails, and endeavoured
+to keep the vessel during the night as much as possible on the same
+spot. With break of day we continued our voyage; but the weather,
+hitherto so fine, now became very gloomy. The heavy rain permitted us
+only to see to a short distance; and as no hope of improvement appeared,
+I gave up the idea of visiting Ralik, and bent my course direct for
+Kamtschatka.
+
+We often thought and conversed upon the interesting inhabitants of
+Radack, of whom we had for ever taken leave. Since this chain lies far
+out of the course usually pursued by navigators in the South Sea, it
+will not soon be visited again, and may in course of time be entirely
+forgotten. Whether this will be for their benefit or their misfortune,
+he who rules the destinies of man can alone foresee.
+
+It is certain that the Radack chain has been peopled much later than
+most of the South Sea islands; but whence, and at what period, is quite
+unknown. If a conjecture may be hazarded, it would be, that the
+inhabitants owe their origin to the Corolinas. They have no tradition on
+the subject. Their language is quite different from all the Polynesian
+dialects, and appears of more recent formation. Whence have these people
+derived characters so much superior to those of other South Sea
+islanders, many of whom, enjoying as fine a climate, and a more
+bountiful soil, resemble beasts of prey? I attribute this in some
+measure to the superior purity of manners among the females. Experience
+teaches us, that wherever that sex is held in its due estimation, morals
+are proportionably refined.
+
+To be thus esteemed, woman must resist the attacks of licentiousness.
+When she associates virtue with her other attractions, she will soon
+obtain an influence over the most savage of the other sex; and thus have
+the females of Radack contributed to form the amiable character of their
+countrymen.
+
+Other fortunate circumstances may have combined with this, to which the
+ante-christian Tahaitians were certainly not indebted. It is justice,
+however, to assert here, that, upon perfect conviction, I give a decided
+preference to the Radackers over the inhabitants of Tahaiti.
+
+  END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.
+
+  LONDON:
+  PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY,
+  Dorset Street, Fleet Street.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] Namely English miles, of which sixty go to a degree, and four to a
+German mile. Whenever, in this Voyage, miles are mentioned, English
+miles are to be understood.
+
+[2] The longitude is always calculated from Greenwich, in this work.
+
+[3] "Formidable is man in his misguided zeal."
+
+[4] The measurement given is two Russian wersts, of which one hundred
+and four and a half make a degree, or, as nearly as possible, one and a
+half make an English mile. The exact circumference therefore of the
+lake, as given, is one mile and one third.
+
+[5] Upon the maps, Lioné and Fanfouné; the termination in _h_ denotes,
+in the Polynesian language, the accent upon the last syllable; as in the
+Tahaitian name Pomareh.
+
+[6] This group must not be confounded with _Otdia_ where we were at this
+time.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A New Voyage Round the World in the
+Years 1823, 24, 25, and 26. Vol. 1, by Otto von Kotzebue
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+  <head>
+    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" />
+    <title>
+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of A New Voyage Round the World
+      in the years 1823, 24, 25, and 26, Volume 1, by Otto Von Kotzebue.
+    </title>
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A New Voyage Round the World in the Years
+1823, 24, 25, and 26. Vol. 1, by Otto von Kotzebue
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A New Voyage Round the World in the Years 1823, 24, 25, and 26. Vol. 1
+
+Author: Otto von Kotzebue
+
+Release Date: June 4, 2008 [EBook #25693]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NEW VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD VOL 1 ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Julia Miller, Greg Bergquist and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This
+book was produced from scanned images of public domain
+material from the Google Print project.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/image1.jpg" width="600" height="344" alt="S. Freeman, Sc.
+
+RECEPTION OF CAPTAIN KOTZEBUE AT THE ISLAND OF OTDIA" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><i>S. Freeman, Sc.</i><br />
+
+RECEPTION OF CAPTAIN KOTZEBUE AT THE ISLAND OF OTDIA</span>
+</div>
+<hr />
+
+
+
+<h1><small>A</small>
+<br /><br />
+NEW VOYAGE
+<br /><br />
+<small>ROUND</small>
+<br /><br />
+THE WORLD,
+<br /><br />
+<small>IN THE YEARS 1823, 24, 25, AND 26.</small></h1>
+
+
+<p class="t2"><br /><br />BY OTTO VON KOTZEBUE,<br />
+
+<small>POST CAPTAIN IN THE RUSSIAN IMPERIAL NAVY.</small><br />
+<br />
+<br /></p>
+<p class="t1">IN TWO VOLUMES.<br />
+<br />
+<big>VOL. I.</big><br />
+<br /></p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p class="t2">LONDON:<br />
+HENRY COLBURN AND RICHARD BENTLEY,<br />
+NEW BURLINGTON STREET.<br />
+1830.<br />
+</p>
+<hr />
+
+
+
+<p class="center">
+<small>LONDON:<br />
+<br />
+PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY,<br />
+Dorset Street, Fleet Street.<br />
+</small></p>
+<hr />
+
+
+<h2>PREFACE.</h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> flattering requisitions of those readers who found amusement in the
+narrative of my former voyage, independently of its scientific details,
+form an incentive to my present publication. All mere nautical minuti&aelig;,
+which might be deemed tedious, with the exception of such as were
+indispensable, have been omitted. Various contingencies have delayed the
+appearance of these Volumes; but I still hope they will not have
+altogether lost the charm of novelty.</p>
+
+<p>With respect to my style, I rely upon the favour formerly shewn me.
+Devoted from my earliest youth to the sea-service, I have had no leisure
+for cultivating the art of authorship.</p>
+<hr />
+
+
+
+<p class="center">
+TO HIS EXCELLENCY<br /><br />
+<big>ADMIRAL VON KRUSENSTERN,</big><br />
+<br />
+<small>THE FIRST RUSSIAN CIRCUMNAVIGATOR;<br />
+<br />
+WHOSE NAME WILL BE IMMORTALIZED BY HIS ACTIVE<br />
+AND BENEFICIAL PATRONAGE OF THE<br />
+NAUTICAL SCIENCE:</small><br />
+<br />
+TO MY PATERNAL FRIEND,<br />
+<br />
+<small>WHOM, WHILE STILL A BOY, I ACCOMPANIED ON<br />
+HIS CELEBRATED EXPEDITION, AND UNDER<br />
+WHOSE AUSPICES I RECEIVED MY EARLY<br />
+EDUCATION AS A SEAMAN;</small><br />
+<br />
+THESE VOLUMES<br />
+<small>ARE DEDICATED WITH THE MOST AFFECTIONATE<br />
+RESPECT.</small><br />
+</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<h2>CONTENTS<br /><br />
+
+
+<small>OF</small><br /><br />
+
+THE FIRST VOLUME.</h2>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td class="td1">&nbsp;</td><td class="td2">Page.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="td1">INTRODUCTION</td><td class="td2"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="td1">VOYAGE TO BRAZIL</td><td class="td2"><a href="#Page_5">5</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="td1">RIO-JANEIRO</td><td class="td2"><a href="#Page_27">27</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="td1">DOUBLING OF CAPE HORN, AND RESIDENCE IN CHILI</td><td class="td2"><a href="#Page_57">57</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="td1">THE DANGEROUS ARCHIPELAGO</td><td class="td2"><a href="#Page_101">101</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="td1">O TAHAITI</td><td class="td2"><a href="#Page_119">119</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="td1">PITCAIRN ISLAND</td><td class="td2"><a href="#Page_225">225</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="td1">NAVIGATORS' ISLANDS</td><td class="td2"><a href="#Page_251">251</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="td1">RADACK ISLANDS</td><td class="td2"><a href="#Page_289">289</a></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<h2>LIST OF PLATES.</h2>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="List of Plates">
+<tr><td class="td1">&nbsp;</td><td class="td2">Page.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="td1">Reception of Captain Kotzebue at the Island of Otdia,</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="td3">To face Title of Vol. I.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="td1">Plan of Mattaway Bay and Village</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_200">200</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="td1">Chart of the Navigators' Islands</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_250">250</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="td1">Chart of the Islands of Radak and Ralik</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_288">288</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="td1">Nomahanna, Queen of the Sandwich Islands,</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="td3">To face Title of Vol. II.</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+
+<hr /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="INTRODUCTION" id="INTRODUCTION"></a>INTRODUCTION.</h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">In</span> the month of March of the year 1823, I was appointed by his Imperial
+Majesty Alexander the First, of glorious memory, to the command of a
+ship, at that time unfinished, but named the Predpriatie (the
+Enterprise). She had been at first destined for a voyage purely
+scientific, but circumstances having occurred which rendered it
+necessary to change the object of the expedition, I was ordered to take
+in at Kronstadt a cargo to Kamtschatka, and to sail from the latter
+place to the north-west coast of America, in order to protect the
+Russian American Company from the smuggling carried on there by foreign
+traders. On this station my ship was to remain for one year,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span> and then,
+being relieved by another, to return to Kronstadt. The course to be
+followed, both in going and returning, was left entirely to my own
+discretion.</p>
+
+<p>On the first of May, the ship, whose Russian name, Predpriatie, I shall
+for the future omit, was declared complete. She was the first vessel
+built in Russia under a roof, (a very excellent plan,) was the size of a
+frigate of a middling rank, and, that she might not be unnecessarily
+burdened, was provided with only twenty-four six-pounders.</p>
+
+<p>My crew consisted of Lieutenants Kordinkoff, Korsakoff, Bordoschewitsch,
+and Pfeifer; the Midshipmen Gekimoff, Alexander von Moller, Golowin,
+Count Heiden, Tschekin, Murawieff, Wukotitsch, and Paul von Moller; the
+Mates, Grigorieff, Gekimoff, and Simokoff, eight petty officers, and one
+hundred and fifteen sailors. We were accompanied by Professors
+Eschscholz and Lenz as Naturalists; Messrs. Preus and Hoffman as
+Astronomer and Mineralogist; and Messrs. Victor and von Siegwald as
+Chaplain and Physician; so that, in all, we reckoned one hundred and
+forty-five persons.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span></p><p>We were richly stored with astronomical and other scientific
+instruments: we possessed two pendulum apparatus, and a theodolite made
+expressly for our expedition by the celebrated Reichenbach. This
+valuable instrument was executed with wonderful precision, and was of
+the greatest use in our astronomical observations on shore.</p>
+
+<p>In June the ship arrived at Kronstadt, and on the 14th of July (old
+style, according to which all reckonings will be made in this voyage,)
+she lay in the harbour fully equipped and ready to sail. On that day the
+cannon of the fortress and of the fleet in the roads announced the
+arrival of the Emperor, whom we had the pleasure of receiving on board
+our vessel.</p>
+
+<p>His Majesty, after a close examination of the ship, honoured us by the
+assurance of his imperial satisfaction; the sailors received a sum of
+money, and I and my officers a written expression of thanks.</p>
+
+<p>With the gracious cordiality peculiar to him, the amiable monarch wished
+us a happy voyage, and retired followed by our enthusiastic blessings.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span></p><p>We did not then anticipate that we had seen him for the last time. On
+our return, his lofty spirit had ascended to the regions of bliss: from
+whence he looks down on his beloved brother, rejoicing to be even
+surpassed by him in the virtues of a sovereign.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5-6]</a></span></p>
+<p class="t5">VOYAGE TO BRAZIL.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="VOYAGE_TO_BRAZIL" id="VOYAGE_TO_BRAZIL"></a>VOYAGE TO BRAZIL.</h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">We</span> remained in the roads of Kronstadt till the 28th of July, when, after
+a painful parting from a beloved and affectionate wife, the wind proving
+favourable, I gave the order to weigh anchor.</p>
+
+<p>The whole crew was in high spirits, and full of hope: the task of
+weighing anchor and setting sail was executed with alertness and
+rapidity; and as the ship began her course, cutting the foaming billows,
+the men joyfully embraced each other, and with loud huzzas expressed
+their hearty wishes for the success of our undertaking. To me this scene
+was highly gratifying. Such a disposition in a crew towards an
+enterprise from which toils and dangers must be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> anticipated, afforded a
+satisfactory presumption that their courage and spirits would not fail
+when they should be really called into exercise. With a good ship and a
+cheerful crew the success of a voyage is almost certain. We fired a
+salute of seven guns, in reply to the farewell from the fortress of
+Kronstadt, and, the wind blowing fresh, soon lost sight of its towers.</p>
+
+<p>As far as Gothland all went well, and nothing disturbed the general
+cheerfulness; but here a sudden storm from the west attacked us so
+unexpectedly as scarcely to give time for the necessary precautions.
+Tossed to and fro by the swelling and boisterous waves, I was not, I
+must confess, altogether free from anxiety.</p>
+
+<p>With a new and untried ship, and men somewhat out of practice, a first
+storm is naturally attended by many causes of disquiet not afterwards so
+seriously felt. In the present instance, however, these untoward
+circumstances were rather productive of the ludicrous than the terrific;
+and whatever might be my solicitude as commander, I experienced but
+little sympathy from my officers. The strength and extent of the motion
+to which we were about<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> to be exposed had not been duly estimated, and
+the movable articles in the cabins were generally ill secured. This was
+particularly the case in the state-cabin, occupied by twenty persons:
+not a table or a chair would remain in its place; every thing rolling
+about in its own stupid way, in defiance of all rule and order. The
+frolicsome young officers were delighted with the confusion; and even
+our seasick men of science could not refrain from laughter when a
+well-fed pig, which, disturbed by the inconvenience, had taken refuge on
+the hatchway, ventured from thence to intrude itself among them by a
+spring through the open window, and looked around in pitiable amazement
+on finding that, amidst the general clamour, repose was no more
+attainable in a state-cabin than in its own humble abode. I was
+meanwhile occupied in narrowly observing the vessel that was to bear us
+through so many and long-enduring difficulties. Amidst the conflict of
+the elements, a commander becomes acquainted with his ship, as in the
+storms of life we learn duly to appreciate our friends. I weighed the
+defects of mine against its good qualities, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> rejoiced that the
+latter had greatly the preponderance. She was a friend on whom I might
+rely in case of need. Such a conviction is necessary to the captain:
+through it alone can his actions acquire the decision and certainty so
+indispensable in time of danger, and so essential to success. In the
+course of four-and-twenty hours the storm abated; a favourable wind
+again swelled our sails, and we enjoyed it doubly after the little
+troubles we had undergone. At daybreak on the 8th of August we left the
+island of Bornholm, and found ourselves surrounded by a Russian fleet
+cruising under the command of Admiral Crown. This meeting with our
+countrymen was an agreeable surprise to us: they could carry to our
+beloved homes the assurance, that thus far at least our voyage had been
+prosperous. We saluted the Admiral with nine guns, received a similar
+number in return, and continued our course with full sails.</p>
+
+<p>On the 10th of August we anchored opposite the friendly capital of
+Denmark, where we received on board the theodolite, which had been
+prepared for us at Munich by Reichenbach, and sent hither. Before the
+sun appeared<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> above the horizon on the 12th, we were again under sail,
+with a good wind and a tranquil sea. The sail along the Danish coast was
+interesting from its beautiful prospects, and numerous buildings
+illumined by the morning sun.</p>
+
+<p>We passed the Sound the same day, and entered the Categat. Here we were
+visited in the night by another violent storm. The sky, pealing with
+incessant thunder, hung heavy and black above us, and spread a fearful
+darkness over the sea, broken only by tremendous flashes of lightning.
+The electric fluid, in large masses of fire, threatened us momentarily
+with destruction; but thanks be to the strong attractive power of the
+sea, which forms so good a conductor for ships,&mdash;without it we had been
+lost! In the North Sea our voyage was tedious, from the continuance of
+contrary winds; and in the English Channel dangerous, from the
+uninterrupted fog. We however reached Portsmouth roads in safety on the
+25th of August.</p>
+
+<p>Since it was my intention to double Cape Horn in the best season, namely
+January or February, it was necessary to lose no time in England. I
+therefore hastened to London, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> resisting all the allurements offered
+by the magnificence of the capital, immediately procured my charts,
+chronometers, and astronomical instruments, and returned on board my
+ship on the 2nd of September, to be in waiting for the first fair wind.
+The wind however chose, as it often does, to put our patience to the
+proof. Its perverseness detained us in the roads till the 6th; and
+though a temporary change then enabled us to sail, we had scarcely
+reached Portland point when a strong gale again set in directly in our
+teeth.</p>
+
+<p>The English Channel, on account of its numerous shallows and strong
+irregular currents, is at all times dangerous: vessels overtaken there
+by storms during the night are in imminent peril of wreck, and thus
+every year are great numbers lost.</p>
+
+<p>I myself, on my former voyage in the Rurik, should have infallibly
+suffered this fate, had the day dawned only half an hour later. Warned
+therefore by experience, I resolved not to trust to the chance of the
+night; and fortunately our English pilot, from whom we had not yet
+parted, was of the same opinion.&mdash;This<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> man, who had grown grey in his
+employment, and was perfectly acquainted with these waters, advised our
+immediate return to Portsmouth, and that every effort should be made to
+reach it before sunset. I therefore had the ship put about, and setting
+as much sail as the violence of the wind would allow, we fled towards
+our place of refuge, the storm continually increasing. Although we ran
+pretty quick, we had scarcely got half-way back, before it became so
+foggy and dark, that the land, which had hitherto been our guide, was no
+longer discernible. We could not see three hundred fathoms from the
+ship. The change in our pilot's countenance showed that our situation
+had become critical. The little, stout, and hitherto phlegmatic fellow
+became suddenly animated by a new spirit. His black eyes lightened; he
+uttered several times the well-known English oath which Figaro declares
+to be "le fond de la langue," rubbed his bands violently together, and
+at length exclaimed, "Captain! I should like a glass of grog&mdash;Devil take
+me if I don't bring you safe into Portsmouth yet!" His wish was of
+course instantly complied with.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> Strengthened and full of courage, he
+seized the helm, and our destiny depended on his skill.</p>
+
+<p>It was now barely possible to reach Portsmouth with daylight by taking
+the shortest way through the Needles, a narrow strait between the Isle
+of Wight and the mainland, full of shallows, where even in clear weather
+a good pilot is necessary. The sun was already near setting, when an
+anxious cry from the watch announced the neighbourhood of land, and in
+the same instant we all perceived, at about a hundred fathoms' distance,
+a high fog-enveloped rock, against which the breakers raged furiously.</p>
+
+<p>Our pilot recognised it for the western point of the Isle of Wight at
+the entrance of the Needles, and the danger we were in only animated his
+spirits. He seized the helm with both hands, and guiding it with
+admirable dexterity, the ship flew, amidst the storm, through the narrow
+and winding channels to which the shallows confined it, often so close
+upon the impending rocks, that it seemed scarcely possible to pass them
+without a fatal collision.</p>
+
+<p>A small vessel that had sailed with us for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> some time at this moment
+struck, and was instantly swallowed by the waves without a possibility
+of saving her. This terrible sight, and the consciousness that the next
+moment might involve us in a similar fate, made every one on board gaze
+in silent anxiety on the direction we were taking: even the pilot said
+not a word.</p>
+
+<p>The twilight had nearly given way to total darkness when we reached
+Portsmouth roads; the joy with which we hailed this haven of safety, and
+our mutual congratulations on our preservation, may be easily imagined:
+our pilot now fell back into his former phlegm, and seating himself with
+a glass of grog by the fireside, received our thanks and praises with
+equal indifference.</p>
+
+<p>This equinoctial storm raged itself out during the night, and the first
+rays of the sun again brought us fine weather and a fair wind, which
+enabled us once more to quit the English harbour. In no situation are
+the vicissitudes so striking as those experienced at sea. The wind,
+which had so lately attacked us with irresistible fierceness, was now
+become too gentle, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> we were detained nine days in the Channel by
+calms, before we could reach the Atlantic Ocean.</p>
+
+<p>Here a fresh north wind occasioned near our track the appearance called
+a water-spout; which consists of a three-cornered mass of foaming water,
+with the point towards the sea, and the broad upper surface covered with
+a black cloud.&mdash;We now held a southerly course, and after encountering
+much rough weather, on the 22nd of September reached the parallel of
+Lisbon, where we enjoyed the warmer temperature, and congratulated
+ourselves on having left behind us the region of storms. We steered
+straight for the island of Teneriffe, where we intended providing
+ourselves with wine. A fresh trade-wind carried us rapidly and smoothly
+forward; the whole crew was in fine health and cheered by one of the
+most beautiful mornings of this climate, when our pleasure in the near
+prospect of a residence on this charming island was most painfully
+interrupted by the accident of a sailor falling overboard. The rapidity
+with which we were driving before the wind frustrated all our efforts to
+save him, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> the poor fellow met his death in the waves. Our
+cheerfulness was now perfectly destroyed; and my regret for the accident
+was increased by the fear of the evil impression it might make on the
+minds of the other men.&mdash;Sailors are seldom free from superstition, and
+if mine should consider this misfortune as a bad omen, it might become
+such in reality by casting down the spirits so essential in a long and
+perhaps dangerous voyage. A crew tormenting itself with idle fears will
+never lend that ready obedience to a commander which is necessary for
+its own preservation. The messmates of the unfortunate man continued to
+gaze mournfully towards the spot where he had sunk, till the sight of
+land, as we sailed about noon past the small rocky island of Salvages,
+seemed to divert their thoughts from the occurrence; their former
+cheerfulness gradually returned, and my apprehensions subsided.</p>
+
+<p>This evening the island of Teneriffe became perceptible amidst the mist
+and clouds which veiled its heights. During the night we reached the
+high black rocks of lava which form its northern points; and at break of
+day I determined<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> to tack, in order to run into Santa Cruz, the only
+place in the island where ships can lie at anchor.</p>
+
+<p>The night was stormy, and the high land occasioned violent gusts of wind
+from various directions. Towards morning the weather improved, but we
+found that the current had carried us twenty miles to the south-east.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>
+These strong currents are common here in all seasons, and, to vessels
+not aware of them, may in dark nights produce injurious consequences.
+Having now passed the northern promontory, we steered southward for the
+roads of Santa Cruz. The shore here, consisting of high, steep masses of
+lava, presents a picturesque but desolate and sterile landscape, amidst
+which the eye seeks in vain for some spot capable of producing the rich
+wine of Teneriffe. Upon a point of rock about a thousand feet above the
+level of the sea, we saw a telegraph in full activity, probably
+announcing our arrival. The town next came in sight, and with its
+numerous churches, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span>convents, and handsome houses, rising in an
+amphitheatre up the side of a mountain, would have offered a noble and
+pleasing prospect to eyes accustomed to the monotony of a sea view, but
+that the majestic Peak, that giant among mountains, rearing in the
+background its snow-crowned head 13,278 feet above the level of the sea,
+now stood clear and cloudless before us, enchaining all our faculties,
+the effect of its appearance rendered still more striking by the sudden
+parting of the clouds which had previously concealed it from us. This
+prodigious conical volcano is from its steepness difficult of access,
+and the small crater on the summit is so closely surrounded by a wall of
+lava, that in some places there is scarcely room to stand. He who is
+bold enough to climb it, however, will find himself rewarded with one of
+the finest prospects in the world. Immediately beneath him, stretches
+the entire extent of the Teneriffe, with all its lovely scenery; round
+it the other nineteen Canary Islands; the eye then glances over an
+immense expanse of waters, beyond which may be descried in the distance
+the dark forests of the African coast, and even the yellow stripe<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> which
+marks the verge of the great Desert. With thoughts full of the
+enjoyments which awaited us, we approached the town. We planned parties
+to see the country and climb the Peak; and our scientific associates,
+holding themselves in readiness to land as soon as the boat could be
+lowered, already rejoiced over the new treasures of mineralogy and
+botany of which the island seemed to promise so ample a store: meanwhile
+we had made the usual signal for a pilot; but having in vain waited his
+appearance, I resolved, as the road was not altogether unknown to me, to
+cast anchor without him; when, just as we had made our preparations, a
+ball from the fortress struck the water not far from the ship. At the
+same time we perceived that all was bustle on the walls; the cannons
+were pointed, the matches lighted, and plenty of Spanish balls were
+ready for our reception. Our government being at peace with Spain, this
+hostile conduct was quite unintelligible to us; but as I had no desire
+for a battle, I contented myself with drawing off the ship, and lying to
+beyond the reach of cannon shot, in the hope that a boat would be sent
+to us with some explanation<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> of it. After, however, waiting a
+considerable time in vain, perceiving the continuance of warlike
+preparations on the walls, we were reluctantly obliged to renounce all
+hopes of visiting the island or the Peak, and to continue our voyage to
+Brazil, where we might reckon upon a kinder welcome.</p>
+
+<p>Here, then, was an end to all our promised pleasures. The enrichment of
+our museum, the merry parties and the choice wine all forfeited to a
+simple misunderstanding! Whatever might be their motive, it was an
+inconsiderate action in the Spaniards wantonly to insult the Russian
+flag; and even if they mistook us for enemies, it was silly to be afraid
+of a single ship, considering that the renowned Nelson, with an English
+fleet, had found the fortifications impregnable.</p>
+
+<p>After a few miles' sail we perceived a large three-masted ship
+endeavouring, with the wind against her, to reach the roads of Santa
+Cruz. We steered towards her, in hopes that we might obtain some
+information that should explain the riddle of the treatment we had
+received. But the ship seemed as much afraid of us as the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> fortress;
+and, as soon as she perceived our intention, made all possible haste to
+avoid us.</p>
+
+<p>It was really laughable enough, but it was also vexatious, that such
+peaceful people as we were should be considered so terrible. I sent a
+bullet after the ship, to induce her to stop; she then hoisted the
+English flag, but never slackened her speed; so that finding we could
+get no satisfaction, we thought it advisable to take advantage of the
+fresh trade-wind, to bear away from Teneriffe as quickly as possible. On
+the following morning we could still see the Peak, a hundred miles off,
+among the clouds; and we called to mind, as we gazed upon it, the
+mysterious accounts of its aborigines, of whom it was said, from the
+resemblance of their teeth to those of grazing animals, that they could
+only live on vegetables. They embalmed corpses in the manner of the
+ancient Egyptians, and preserved them in grottoes in the rocks, where
+they are still to be found. The Spaniards, the first discoverers and
+appropriators of the island, have described in high terms the state of
+civilization, methods<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> of agriculture, and remarkably pure morality of
+these ancient inhabitants, who nevertheless were entirely exterminated
+by the tyranny and cruelty of their conquerors.</p>
+
+<p>The trade-wind and continued fine weather brought us rapidly on our way
+towards Brazil. Dolphins, flying-fish, and the large and beautiful
+gold-fish, called by the Spaniards <i>bonito</i>, constantly surrounded the
+ship, and formed by day a relief from the tedium of gazing on the
+unvarying billows, as did during the darkness of the night the
+innumerable phosphorescent animals of the muscle kind, which, studding
+the black ocean with sparks of fire, produced a dazzling and living
+illumination. Our naturalist, Professor Eschscholz, has already
+communicated to the world his microscopical observations upon these
+marine curiosities.</p>
+
+<p>On the first of October we doubled the Cape Verd Islands, without
+however seeing the land, which is almost always lost in mist, and
+steered direct for the Equator. Our progress was now impeded by calms,
+and the heat began to be oppressive; but care and precaution preserved<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span>
+the crew in perfect health, an effect which strict cleanliness, order,
+and wholesome diet, will seldom fail to produce, even in long voyages.</p>
+
+<p>At five degrees North latitude, we took advantage of a calm to draw up
+water from a depth of five hundred fathoms, by means of a machine
+invented by the celebrated Russian academician Parrot. We found the
+temperature five degrees by Reaumur, while that of the water on the
+surface reached twenty-five degrees. To us it appeared ice-cold, and we
+felt ourselves much refreshed by washing our heads and faces with it.
+The machine weighed forty pounds, and might contain about a moderate
+pail-full; but the pressure of the column of water over it was such,
+that six sailors with a windlass were hardly able to draw it up. We made
+an attempt to sink it to a thousand fathoms' depth, but the line broke,
+and we lost the machine; fortunately, however, we were provided with a
+second.</p>
+
+<p>While we were still more than a hundred miles from land, a swallow
+alighted on the deck. It is wonderful how far these little animals can
+fly without resting. At first, it seemed weary,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> but soon recovered, and
+flew gaily about. When far out at sea, cut off from every other society
+than that of our shipmates, any guest from land, even a bird, is
+welcome. Ours soon became a general favourite, and was so tame, that it
+would hop on our hands and take the flies we offered him without any
+symptom of fear. He chose my cabin to sleep in at night; and at sunrise
+flew again upon deck, where he found every one willing to entertain him,
+and catch flies for his subsistence. But our hospitality proved fatal to
+him; he over-ate himself, and died of an indigestion, universally
+lamented.</p>
+
+<p>On the 11th of October we crossed the Equator at twenty-five degrees W.
+longitude, reckoning from Greenwich.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> Having saluted the Southern
+hemisphere by the firing of guns, our crew proceeded to enact the usual
+ceremonies. A sailor, who took pride in having frequently passed the
+Line, directed the performance with much solemnity and decorum. He
+appeared as Neptune, attired in a manner that was meant to be terribly
+imposing, accompanied by his consort,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> seated on a gun-carriage instead
+of a shell, drawn by negroes, as substitutes for Tritons. In the
+evening, the sailors represented, amidst general applause, a comedy of
+their own composition. These sports, while they serve to keep up the
+spirits of the men, and make them forget the difficulties they have to
+go through, produce also the most beneficial influence upon their
+health; a cheerful man being much more capable of resisting a fit of
+sickness than a melancholy one. It is the duty of commanders to use
+every innocent means of maintaining this temper in their crews; for in
+long voyages, when they are several months together wandering on an
+element not destined by nature for the residence of man, without
+enjoying even occasionally the recreations of the land, the mind
+naturally tends to melancholy, which of itself lays the foundation of
+many diseases, and sometimes even of insanity. Diversion is often the
+best medicine, and, used as a preservative, seldom fails of its effect.</p>
+
+<p>Below the Equator, we met with a fresh south-east wind, and having also
+fine weather, we soon reached the coast of Brazil.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27-28]</a></span></p>
+<p class="t5">RIO JANEIRO.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="RIO_JANEIRO" id="RIO_JANEIRO"></a>RIO JANEIRO.</h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">On</span> the morning of the 1st of November, consequently in the spring of the
+Southern hemisphere, we perceived Cape Frio, and in the evening plainly
+distinguished, by its well-known conical mountain, the entrance to the
+Bay of Rio Janeiro. A dead calm deprived us of the pleasure of running
+into the port that night, so that we were compelled to drop our anchor
+before it; but we found some compensation for our disappointment, in
+contemplating so much of this charming country as was visible from our
+ship. The magnificent scenery of Brazil has often been described, but no
+expression can do justice to its ravishing beauty. Imagination can
+scarcely picture the exquisite variety of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> form and colouring of the
+luxuriant and gigantic vegetation that thickly clothes the valleys and
+mountains even to the sea-shore. A breeze from the land wafted to us the
+most delicious perfumes; and crowds of beautiful insects, butterflies,
+and birds, such as only the tropics produce, hovered about us. Nature
+seems to have destined these lovely regions for the unmixed enjoyment of
+her creatures; but, alas! hard labour and a tyrant's whip have, to the
+unhappy Negro, transformed this Paradise into a place of torment.</p>
+
+<p>The sight of two slave-ships formed a revolting contrast to the
+enchantment of the prospect: they had that day arrived from Africa, and
+lay near us at anchor. The trade in human flesh, that foul blot on
+civilized nations, of which most of them are already ashamed, yet
+flourishes here in detestable activity, and is carried on, with all the
+brutality of avarice, under the sanction of the laws. The ships employed
+in this abominable traffic are so over-crowded that the slaves have
+scarcely room to move. They are brought up by turns to inhale for a
+while the refreshing breeze, but the deck being only<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> capable of
+accommodating a small portion at once, they are soon returned to the
+confined and pestilential atmosphere below. One third of the human
+cargo, as a necessary consequence, generally perishes on the voyage, and
+the remainder reach their place of destination in a state of miserable
+suffering. The decks of the ships I have just mentioned, were crowded
+with these unfortunate creatures, naked, fettered, and diseased. Even
+mothers with infants at their breasts had not been spared by these
+speculators! What still greater misery might not be concealed beneath
+the decks!</p>
+
+<p>The darkness, which at once closed from our view all that had delighted
+and disgusted us, rendered visible an almost incessant flight of
+rockets, and we heard occasionally, throughout the night, the discharge
+of guns and musketry from the town. These demonstrations of rejoicing
+led to the supposition that some important festival was celebrating, or
+that a great victory had probably been gained; we afterwards learnt,
+however, that they were occasioned only by the arrest of three
+ministers, accused of a conspiracy against the Emperor.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span></p><p>At daybreak the chief pilot came on board. This little fat man, proud
+of his name of Vasco de Gama, which he professed to have inherited in a
+direct line from the celebrated navigator to the East Indies, was in
+many respects a good specimen of his countrymen. He was wholly
+uneducated, as they mostly are; and, next to his ancestry, that in which
+he took the greatest pride was the independence of Brazil. This feeling,
+which is general among all classes, enlists each individual personally
+in support of the existing government, and is its surest guarantee.</p>
+
+<p>Although our pilot had not attained to the renown of his great ancestor,
+I must do him the justice to say that he understood his business, and
+guided us very skilfully through the narrow mouth of the Bay. This small
+entrance, commanded by a fort on a height, is tolerably well secured
+from the approach of an enemy; and might, by stronger batteries, be made
+wholly inaccessible, as the channel is so narrow, that a ship in working
+its way in must always be within half-shot distance. We anchored near
+the town, among numerous vessels of various<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> nations, and set foot once
+more on terra-firma, after being fifty-two days at sea since leaving
+England.</p>
+
+<p>Beautiful as this country always appears to an European eye, it has
+perhaps no scene so strikingly splendid and picturesque as that which
+presents itself within this Bay. The rich and novel peculiarity of the
+landscape is contrasted with the handsome buildings of the town, rising
+amphitheatrically round the harbour; and these again derive a curious
+effect from the tall and slender palm-trees, which, thickly interspersed
+among them, throw their strongly defined and waving shadows upon the
+white surface of the contiguous houses; and the whole is crowned by the
+numerous convents which are seen above the town, in the distance,
+clinging like swallows'-nests, to the precipitous sides of the
+mountains.</p>
+
+<p>We had hardly reefed our sails, when the Russian Vice-Consul, Von
+Kielchen, and an officer of the Brazilian government, came on board to
+congratulate us on our arrival. The latter acquainted me with the order
+of his Government, that every ship of war coming in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> should salute the
+fortress with one-and-twenty guns; and in order to remove all doubt that
+the compliment was designed for the Brazilian flag, he had brought one
+which, during the salute, he requested us to hoist at the fore-mast.</p>
+
+<p>New and unprecedented as this order was, from a state not yet
+acknowledged by our government, I determined, rather than risk any
+disagreement, to comply with it; and having fired the one-and-twenty
+guns, received from the fortress a similar number in return. Being very
+anxious not to lose the favourable season for doubling Cape Horn, I
+urged the Vice-Consul to expedite as much as possible the delivery of
+provisions and other necessaries to the ship; for this purpose, however,
+a delay of four weeks was required, and this time I determined to employ
+in astronomical observations. M. Von Kielchen procured me for this
+purpose a convenient country-house, situated on the romantic little bay
+of Botafogo, of which I took possession on the following day,
+accompanied by our astronomer, M. Preus; leaving the care of the ship to
+my officers.</p>
+
+<p>In the supposition that the history of Brazil<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> may not be familiar to
+every reader, male and female,&mdash;for I hope to have many of the
+latter,&mdash;I will preface the narration of my residence here with the
+following notices.</p>
+
+<p>This great empire in South America, called Brazil, from a wood which
+grows there in great abundance, resembling in colour a red-hot coal, (in
+the Portuguese "<i>Brasa</i>,") is one of the richest and most fertile
+countries in the world. It was accidentally discovered in the year 1500,
+by a Portuguese named Cabral, who with a fleet bound for the East
+Indies, was thrown on these shores.</p>
+
+<p>The riches of the country being at first unknown, it was used as a place
+of banishment for criminals; but subsequently, when the convicts began
+to cultivate the sugar-cane, and the gold and diamond mines were
+discovered, Brazil acquired a higher value in the eyes of the Portuguese
+government.</p>
+
+<p>A Viceroy was therefore sent out, with the strongest injunctions to
+close the Brazilian ports against all foreign powers, in order to
+preserve to Portugal the exclusive trade in the diamonds and other
+precious stones with which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> it was now found that the country abounded.
+For a long time, this beautiful land, rich in all the gifts of nature,
+languished under the rule of Portuguese Viceroys, with a
+thinly-scattered population, poor, oppressed, and destitute of all
+mental culture. At length, the year 1807 opened to it a brighter
+prospect. Napoleon's ambitious views extending even to Portugal, forced
+the Royal Family to take refuge in the colonies. They were followed by
+fourteen thousand soldiers, and about twelve thousand other adherents.
+The presence of a court and government in the capital, Rio Janeiro, had
+the most beneficial influence on all the interests of the country. The
+ports were opened to all European ships, and commerce, wealth, and
+civilization advanced rapidly.</p>
+
+<p>Napoleon's victories having found a final termination, in his banishment
+to St. Helena, the King of Portugal returned, in 1821, to his European
+dominions, leaving the Regency of Brazil to his son, the Crown Prince,
+Pedro, already married to an Austrian princess.</p>
+
+<p>But the example of the newly-established republics of America had a
+powerful effect on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> the minds of the people; the King's departure was a
+signal for the breaking out of revolutionary disturbances, which, though
+the Crown Prince could not appease, he was, nevertheless, by means of a
+strong party he had gained over, enabled to direct. In the year 1822, he
+declared Brazil independent of the mother-country,&mdash;promised the people
+a Constitution,&mdash;and was at last proclaimed Emperor, by the title of
+Pedro the First. From the day when the nation tendered its allegiance,
+the Emperor and all patriots have worn on the left arm a green cockade
+inscribed with the words, "Independence or Death." At the coronation,
+the order of the Southern Cross was founded, and the new national flag
+hoisted: it is green, with a yellow square in the middle, on which is
+represented the Earth, surrounded by thirteen stars (the number of the
+provinces), and leaves of coffee and tobacco, as the produce of the
+country.</p>
+
+<p>The government, at the time of our residence in Brazil, was nothing less
+than constitutional. This is sufficiently proved by the tumultuary
+arrest of the above-mentioned three Ministers, by the arbitrary
+dispersion of the Deputies<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> from the provinces, called together
+expressly to form a Constitutional Assembly, and by the expression of
+the Emperor, that he required unconditional submission, even if he
+should choose, like Charles the Twelfth, to send his boot to them as his
+representative. It is possible that the Emperor has been in some measure
+forced to these violent proceedings by the contentions of the various
+parties, each of which seeks its own interest without concerning itself
+about the general welfare. His personal character is much praised.</p>
+
+<p>A captain of one of the Russian-American Company's ships, who had been
+in Rio Janeiro, related to me the following anecdote of his benevolence.
+Two sailors belonging to his crew had been ashore, and having got drunk,
+were found lying senseless on the road to Corcovado. The Emperor and
+Empress happening to ride that way, attended only by a few servants, saw
+them, and supposed them to be sick. The Emperor immediately dismounted,
+rubbed their temples with his own hand, and endeavoured to restore them
+to their senses, but in vain. He then sent for his own surgeon, and
+dispatched<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> them under his care to the hospital, from whence on the
+following morning, having slept off their intoxication, they were
+dismissed as cured.&mdash;Another, and a different anecdote, I heard from a
+painter from Vienna, who was residing in Rio Janeiro. The Emperor,
+wishing to have a whole-length portrait of himself, sent for the painter
+to place his easel in a room in the palace, and commenced sitting. The
+first outline was scarcely made, when an officer, whose business it was
+to report the arrival of ships, entered with the list. The names of the
+ships and captains, of various nations and languages with which the
+officer was unacquainted, puzzled him, and he read so stammeringly, and
+sometimes almost unintelligibly, that the Emperor, enraged at his
+ignorance, seized a stick, and the officer, only by a rapid flight round
+the easel, in which he was at first pursued by the monarch, escaped the
+intended chastisement. We shall be less surprised at this conduct, if we
+consider the point of civilization to which the country had attained
+when this Prince first seized the helm. May he succeed in elevating it
+to what his government may make it,&mdash;the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> happiest, as well as the
+loveliest and most fruitful empire in the world!</p>
+
+<p>The Brazilian fleet, then commanded by the celebrated Lord Cochrane,
+consisted of one ship of the line, two frigates, three brigs, and some
+smaller vessels. Inconsiderable as was this force, it was in good order,
+and under the direction of its skilful and heroic commander, had done
+wonders. Lord Cochrane had recently, with his single ship of the line
+and one frigate only, attacked and defeated a Portuguese squadron of two
+ships of the line and four frigates, pursued them to the port of Lisbon,
+and made prize of forty merchant vessels they were convoying. For this
+exploit, he received from the Emperor the appointment of Grand Admiral,
+and the title of Marquis of Marenham, after one of the provinces. He had
+before served the republic of Chili; and, it is said, in the midst of
+his warlike ardour, he had not forgotten the care of his private
+finances.</p>
+
+<p>This was his first year in the Brazilian service. I was curious to see
+so celebrated a man, and soon found an opportunity of forming an
+acquaintance with him, which led to a frequent<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> intercourse. His
+external deportment is repulsive rather than attractive; he is somewhat
+taciturn; and it is difficult, in ordinary conversation, to discover the
+intelligence and information which he really possesses. He is turned of
+fifty years of age, tall and thin: his attitude is stooping, his hair
+red, his features strongly marked, and the expression of his countenance
+serious: his sparkling, lively eyes, concealed by overhanging eyebrows,
+are generally fixed on the ground, and seldom even raised to the person
+he is addressing. His lady forms a striking contrast with him: she is
+young, handsome, lively in conversation, extremely amiable, and so
+devotedly attached to him, that she exposes her life to the greatest
+danger rather than leave his side, and has remained in his ship during
+all his battles in the South American service.</p>
+
+<p>Cochrane frequently expressed to me a wish to enter the Russian service,
+in order to assist the Greeks, and fight the Turks. This object he has
+since attained by other means. War appears to be an indispensable
+necessity to his nature; and a dangerous struggle in a just<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> cause is
+his highest enjoyment. How this enthusiasm can be united to the great
+love of money of which he is accused, it is not easy to imagine.</p>
+
+<p>My short residence in Brazil passed rapidly and agreeably in my
+necessary occupations, and the enjoyment of the charming environs of my
+country-house. The effect which so total a change of climate and scenery
+produces on European spirits, even when not experienced for the first
+time, is really astonishing. The eye can fix on no one object which is
+not directly the reverse of any thing to which it has been accustomed.
+The birds, insects, trees, flowers, all wear a foreign aspect, even to
+the blades of grass. By its strange forms and colourings, but especially
+by its overflowing abundance, all nature here demands attention.
+Throughout the day, myriads of the most beautiful butterflies, beetles,
+and humming-birds, display their various colours in the sun, which has
+scarcely set, before innumerable swarms of fire-flies illuminate the
+scene. I had seldom time for excursions; therefore, as it usually
+happens to sailors, I can say little of the interior.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span></p><p>Botafogo, where, on account of the salubrity of the air, the richest
+and most distinguished of the inhabitants of Rio Janeiro have fixed
+their country-houses, is the most attractive spot in the immediate
+environs of the capital. Among the mountains which form the background
+of the view from the Bay, is one solid rock, very remarkable from the
+resemblance of its figure to an enormous church-steeple; it rises,
+according to a geometrical admeasurement of our scientific companion
+Lenz, to the height of fifteen hundred and eighty feet above the level
+of the sea. With infinite pains, a road has been conducted to the
+summit, where the space is so confined that a few persons only can be
+accommodated at the same time, but from whence the prospect is
+indescribably magnificent: it is called Corcovado, and is a favourite
+ride with the Emperor.</p>
+
+<p>From Botafogo the road to the capital is studded on both sides with
+pretty villas. The town derives its name, Rio Janeiro, or January river,
+from an error on the first discovery of the bay, which, owing to the
+narrowness of its mouth, was mistaken for a river, and named<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> after the
+current month. Its interior by no means corresponds with its handsome
+appearance from the bay, the streets being narrow and dirty, and the
+buildings very tasteless. Clumsy churches and convents are found in
+plenty, but there is little worthy the attention of the traveller,
+except the Museum, which has a rich collection of rare natural
+curiosities, and valuable minerals. The extent of the town is
+considerable, and it contains about two hundred and fifty thousand
+inhabitants, of which however two-thirds are negroes, and the rest
+principally mulattoes and other people of colour. A white face is seldom
+to be seen in the streets; but the blacks are so numerous, that one
+might fancy oneself in Africa.</p>
+
+<p>Among these are a few free men; but the greater part are slaves degraded
+to beasts of burden. The immense weights they carry are usually fastened
+on a plank, each end of which is borne by a negro, keeping time to his
+steps by a monotonous and melancholy song in his native language, and
+goaded by the whip to renewed efforts, when the failing of his voice
+indicates almost utter exhaustion. They often carry<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> heavily laden
+baskets on their heads; and even women are not exempt from this labour.</p>
+
+<p>On Sundays and holidays they also sing in time to their steps, as they
+stroll about, but the tune has a more lively character; and they
+sometimes accompany their voices on a little instrument composed of a
+few steel springs. They understand no other language than that of their
+distant country, and therefore, though the ceremony of baptism is never
+omitted, they receive no instruction in the doctrines of Christianity;
+thus, while an appearance of anxiety concerning the salvation of their
+souls is maintained, they continue sunk in the state of misery and
+darkness which hopeless bodily suffering is so calculated to produce.
+The few free blacks are either manumitted slaves or their descendants:
+they are mostly mechanics engaged in trade. The mulattoes are generally
+of illegitimate birth, but are sometimes the offspring of marriages
+between blacks and the lowest class of whites. From their connexion with
+blacks or whites spring all the various gradations of colour met with
+among the inhabitants of Brazil. The mulattoes and free negroes form the
+middle<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> classes; the few whites found among them being the worst of
+characters, ignorant and vicious to the last degree; their repulsive
+exterior is worthy of their abandoned lives: they are usually <i>retail</i>
+slave dealers, and keep shops where these miserable beings are exposed
+to view, and may be examined and purchased like any other ware. About
+twenty thousand negroes are annually brought to Brazil; the average
+price of a female is three hundred, and of a man six hundred piastres.</p>
+
+<p>The principal food of the negroes is a sort of thick paste called
+Manioc, which is prepared from Tapioca by kneading in hot water; to an
+European palate it has a disagreeable flavour, but may be nutritious, as
+the slaves mostly look well-fed; I doubt, however, its being wholesome
+without a mixture of other food, and I even think it possible that it
+may be the original cause of a terrible disease to which the negroes
+alone are subject, and of which they know nothing in their own country.
+Large tumours appear on their faces and legs, which do not break, but
+increase in size till in some of the sufferers the human form can
+scarcely be recognised. A convent situated on a little island,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> called
+Dos Fradres, in the bay of Rio Janeiro, and not far from the town,
+contains a hospital, under the superintendence of the government, for
+sick negro slaves. I have not been able to learn whether this disease
+has been successfully treated here. The father of the Emperor, while he
+remained in Rio Janeiro, often visited the convent; and a room is shown
+where he used to take refuge when it thundered, as he was excessively
+fearful in a storm, and, from some unknown cause, esteemed this chamber
+peculiarly safe.</p>
+
+<p>On the 19th of November, the celebration of the anniversary of the
+coronation, and the establishment of the Order of the Southern Cross,
+attracted me to the capital.</p>
+
+<p>It was scarcely daybreak when the thunder of the cannon from all the
+batteries, and from the ships in the roads, recalled the remembrance of
+this happy event, which had taken place only the preceding year. The
+streets were filled with people; soldiers in their dress-regimentals
+hastened to their various places of rendezvous; and the negroes,
+released from labour, formed a part of the cheerful throng. At eleven
+o'clock, the Emperor and Empress, in a magnificent carriage<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> drawn by
+eight horses, and escorted by a troop of guards in handsome uniforms,
+arrived at the principal church. A number of carriages, containing the
+suite of the Imperial pair, followed, all at a slow pace, that the
+people might have more time to enjoy the spectacle.</p>
+
+<p>At some distance from the door, the Emperor and Empress alighted, and
+entered the church in procession, surrounded by the Knights of the
+Southern Cross; they were met by the Bishop and the whole body of the
+clergy, and conducted with great pomp to a throne erected at the right
+side of the altar, which the Emperor ascended, while his consort took
+her place in a pew on the left. After the service, performed by a good
+choir to excellent music, the Bishop came forward and delivered a very
+long discourse, descriptive of the various virtues of the Emperor,
+comparing him to Peter the Great of Russia, and pointing out how he
+ought to administer the government for the good of his subjects. The
+comparison he was pleased to institute between the monarch and his
+illustrious namesake is only so far just, as, in the uncultivated state
+of the two nations, both have had similar materials to work upon.
+Whether<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> Don Pedro, with much greater means, will effect as much as our
+immortal Peter, time will show. One of the hopes of Brazil is already
+extinguished by the death of the Empress, who in a short time had done
+much for science and the arts. When the sermon was over, their Majesties
+returned to the Palace, amidst an uninterrupted firing of cannon. They
+then received the congratulations of the court, and at four o'clock the
+Emperor reviewed in the great market-place, where a temple was erected
+for the imperial family, a body of four thousand five hundred troops,
+formed in a half circle round the temple. In their venerable commander,
+Don Jos&eacute; de Currado, a field-marshal, of eighty years of age, I joyfully
+recognised the former governor of St. Katharine's, who, on my first
+voyage round the world, under the command of the present Admiral
+Krusenstein, received me so hospitably. The observations I had an
+opportunity of making upon the soldiers, before the arrival of the
+Emperor, were not altogether unfavourable; though, it must be confessed,
+the good people seemed to have no very high notion of discipline;
+smoking, and all kinds of irregularities,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> being permitted even in the
+front ranks. Their uniform was handsome and suitable; that of the
+musicians chiefly attracted my attention. Every colonel of a regiment
+has the right of dressing his band according to his fancy; and as tastes
+are very various, so of course are these costumes, though the Asiatic
+predominates; some being attired as Turks, others as Indians. In one
+regiment, indeed, a quantity of coloured feathers, worn on the head and
+round the body, formed the only covering.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the Emperor and Empress, both on horseback and surrounded by
+a splendid court, were seen in the distance, the cannon sent forth its
+loudest roar, the soldiers threw away their cigars, the multitude waved
+their hats, the ladies in the balconies their white
+pocket-handkerchiefs, and all shouted "Viva l'Emperador." The cort&egrave;ge
+approached slowly; the Emperor, from the superior richness of his
+uniform, glittering amidst the splendid throng, like Syrius in the
+starry sky. His colossal figure seemed literally covered with gold lace;
+his breast sparkled with diamonds, and his strong features were shaded<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span>
+by a hat richly decorated with jewels. The Express was more tastefully
+attired in a simple black riding-dress, embroidered with gold. When she
+had taken her place in the temple, his Majesty assumed the command of
+the troops and paraded them before her. As soon as his powerful voice
+was heard, the thunder of the cannon again burst forth; the Turks,
+Indians, and above-mentioned Popinjays, blew their trumpets, while the
+shout from the people of "Viva l'Emperador" was loudest amidst the
+uproar. The columns of the military having several times defiled before
+the Empress, the parade terminated, and the Imperial family and their
+court repaired to the theatre. I had been seated in my box a few minutes
+before they entered the building, which was suffocatingly full, and I
+was surprised to find it as good in its architecture and arrangements as
+the generality of European theatres. The boxes were occupied by whites
+only, and many female faces were there to be seen as fair as those of
+Northern Europe; the tender red of the youthful cheek, the bright, black
+eye and jetty hair increased the attraction of these brilliant
+complexions;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> but many of the ladies have brown, and even very light
+hair. Their dress was tastefully arranged in the Parisian fashion: the
+art of the toilet appears indeed to be the only one they study, as their
+education does not always proceed so far as reading and writing,
+although they are not deficient in natural capabilities; their
+conversation is often as graceful and piquant as that of European
+ladies. Nor is general information much more extended among the
+gentlemen, as the following anecdote will testify. When, in 1817, the
+Russian frigate Kamschatka anchored in the Port of Rio Janeiro, it was
+visited by many Brazilians of rank, and amongst others by an officer who
+expressed much surprise at finding a crucifix in the cabin. He knew,
+indeed, that the Russians professed the Greek religion, but was wholly
+ignorant that this church formed any part of the Christian community.</p>
+
+<p>It is the custom here to pay visits in the theatre, which are indeed
+more highly prized than those made at their houses, as the attention is
+more publicly manifested. On these occasions the animated intercourse
+between the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> young people of the different sexes is frequently
+accompanied by glances sufficiently expressive to betray its object.</p>
+
+<p>The pit presented a very singular appearance, from its assemblage of
+various complexions, including every possible shade from black to white,
+although the darker tints had greatly the preponderance. Nor was the
+distinction of manners among the different portions of the audience less
+striking. No theatre in Europe can boast of more decorum and politeness
+than prevails here in the boxes; but the noisy and coarse vulgarity of
+the pit would not be tolerated in a more refined nation. All eyes were
+eagerly directed towards the Imperial box, when its curtain, which
+before had been close drawn, was thrown open; their Majesties then
+appeared standing in the front, the back of the box being filled by
+Knights of the Southern Cross. Hats and handkerchiefs were now again
+waved, and on every side resounded "Viva l'Emperador, l'Emperadriza, la
+Monarchia!" This enthusiasm having been rewarded by gracious
+acknowledgments, the drop curtain rose, and an actress came forward<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> to
+recite a prologue in praise of the Emperor. Then followed a piece of
+which I understood very little; and the whole was concluded by a ballet,
+greatly superior to my expectations. During the performance, the Emperor
+gave audience in his box to many of his subjects, the interview always
+beginning with the homage of kissing hands on the bended knee. As soon
+as the curtain rose, the company in the pit became tolerably quiet, and
+much more attentive than those in the boxes; the latter appearing to
+take more interest in conversation with their acquaintances than in the
+performance. I paid my respects to Lord Cochrane and his amiable wife in
+their box, and remained with them till the conclusion of the piece.</p>
+
+<p>He spoke much of Chili, and wore even on this day of ceremony, a Chilian
+uniform and a blue scarf, its honorary decoration. This surprised me the
+more, as he seemed dissatisfied with the Chilian government. His
+explanation was, that the Emperor had not yet decided what his Brazilian
+uniform should be, and consequently, that he was still obliged to wear
+that of Chili. The lady preferred Chili to Brazil,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> and believed that
+the heat of this climate did not agree with her health.</p>
+
+<p>On the 27th of November, all our stores being laid in, bidding a cordial
+farewell to Brazil, I returned to my ship, intending to continue our
+voyage on the following day. Accordingly at five o'clock on the morning
+of the 28th we spread our sails, and the ebb-tide and a light breeze
+from the North, bore us slowly from this lovely coast. The wind soon
+slackened; and we should have been greatly embarrassed but for a number
+of boats sent by the English squadron, then lying in the roads, to tow
+us out to sea, by which seasonable assistance we were enabled to clear
+the bay before evening. The heat of Brazil had not injured the health of
+our crew. Fresh provisions, much fruit and vegetables, good lemonade
+instead of the ordinary drink, and a sea bath every evening, were the
+means I employed for the prevention of sickness. The men were in the
+best spirits for encountering the storms of the Southern ocean; and I
+destined the port of Conception, on the coast of Chili, for a
+resting-place, after having surmounted the difficulties of doubling Cape
+Horn.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span></p><p>The result of our repeated observations on land, are as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Botafogo">
+<tr><td class="td1">Latitude of Botafogo</td><td class="td2">21&deg; 56' 5" South.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="td1">Medium Longitude from various observations</td><td class="td2">43&deg; 7' 32" West.</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+<p>Every longitude which is given in the course of this voyage is reckoned
+by the distance from Greenwich, going from West to East. The variation
+of the needle amounted to 3&deg; East, its inclination to 9&deg; 28'. As the
+longitude of Cape Frio has been variously laid down, I took much pains
+to ascertain it exactly. By a very good chronometer, I found the
+difference between Cape Frio and Botafogo 1&deg; 6' 20"; so that the true
+longitude of Cape Frio from Greenwich must be 42&deg; 1' 12".</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p>
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57-58]</a></span></p>
+<p class="t5">DOUBLING OF CAPE HORN,<br /><br />
+<small>AND</small><br /><br />
+RESIDENCE IN CHILI.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="DOUBLING_OF_CAPE_HORN_AND_RESIDENCE_IN_CHILI" id="DOUBLING_OF_CAPE_HORN_AND_RESIDENCE_IN_CHILI"></a>DOUBLING OF CAPE HORN,<br /><br /> <small>AND</small><br /><br /> RESIDENCE IN CHILI.</h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">We</span> continued our course to the South very agreeably, with fine weather
+and a favourable wind. Under thirty-nine degrees of latitude, however,
+we could already perceive how much further the South pole extends its
+unfavourable influence than the North. The sky was no longer clear, the
+wind became changeable and violent, the air much colder, and the
+frequent sight of the whale, and of a giant bird called the albatross,
+warned us that we were approaching the stormy region. We afterwards
+shot<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> one of these birds on the coast of Chili, which measured twelve
+feet across the wings.</p>
+
+<p>In the parallel of Rio de la Plata, although two hundred miles from
+land, we were daily carried by the current thirty-nine miles out of our
+course towards the south-west; so great is the influence of this mighty
+river at the distance of two hundred and forty miles from its mouth.</p>
+
+<p>On the 15th of December, in the beginning of the southern summer, under
+forty-seven degrees of latitude, where, if the temperature of both
+hemispheres were equal, the climate would have been that of the South of
+Germany, or the middle of France, we were overtaken by a violent storm,
+accompanied by hail and snow. It began from the south-west, but the
+wind, in the course of twenty-four hours, veered the whole round of the
+compass, and raised such high and furious billows, that our escape from
+destruction afforded ample proof, notwithstanding a considerable leak,
+of our ship's strength, and her architect's skill. From this time we
+continued our voyage with a fair wind and serene weather.</p>
+
+<p>Between Falkland Islands and the west of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> Patagonia, we saw great
+numbers of storm-birds, betokening the neighbourhood of land, and we
+sailed within speaking distance of a North-American whaler. The dirty
+ship, and the crew smeared with blubber, had indeed a disgusting
+appearance; but if we consider to what toils and dangers these poor men
+are exposed during their voyages, which commonly last several years, in
+the most tempestuous seas, sometimes sailing about for months without
+seeing a fish, and suffering in the meanwhile from the want of wholesome
+food, yet pursuing their object with invincible perseverance, it is
+impossible to deny them compassion, and even commendation. The North
+Americans display an industry and perseverance in their commercial
+undertakings, which is not exceeded even by the English: they are to be
+met with upon every sea, and in the most unfrequented regions,
+disdaining nothing, however trivial, from which they can derive profit.
+On the north-west coast of America, they barter with the savages all
+kinds of European trifles for the beautiful skin of the sea-otter, which
+they sell for a high price in China. Many of their vessels<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> take in
+cargoes of sandal-wood in the South-Sea Islands, for which they also
+find a good market in China, where it is in great estimation; others
+pursue the spermaceti whale in the neighbourhood of Cape Horn, and carry
+on an important traffic in this article.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 23rd of December, we saw in the distance the
+snow-covered points of the mountains in the dreaded Staten-land. A fresh
+breeze carried us so near to this inhospitable and desolate island, that
+we could plainly distinguish the objects on it, even without a
+telescope. What a contrast to the beauty of Brazil! There nature seems
+inexhaustible in her splendour and variety; here she has sparingly
+allowed a thin clothing of moss to the lofty masses of black rock.
+Seldom do the sun's rays lighten this or the neighbouring island of
+Terra del Fuego. Vegetation is so blasted by the perpetual cold and
+fogs, that a few miserable stunted trees can scarcely find subsistence
+at the foot of the mountains. The sea-birds avoid these barren shores;
+the very insects disdain them; the dog, the faithful companion of man,
+and man himself, the inhabitant of every climate<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> under heaven, can
+alone exist in this; but the warmth of the sun is essential to the
+development of his faculties. Here he is a mere animal, and of
+disgusting appearance; small, ill-shaped, with dirty copper-coloured
+skin, black bristly hair, and devoid of beard. He inhabits a miserable
+hut made of boughs covered with dried rushes, and appeases his hunger on
+the raw and often half-decayed flesh of the sea animals, whose skins
+furnish him with a scanty covering: this is the utmost extent to which
+his invention has yet led him, in providing defences against the
+roughness of the climate; and the dreariness of his existence is still
+unenlivened by any notion of amusement. Yet is this benumbing country
+situated in the same degree of southern latitude in which in the
+northern lies my beloved Esthonia, where every comfort of civilization
+may be enjoyed&mdash;the land of my birth, where in the charming form of
+woman is "garnered up" the happiness of my life, and where I hope to
+rest at last in the haven of friendship and love, till I set out on that
+final voyage from which I shall never return.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span></p><p>We had so little wind, that we were only able on the following morning
+to double the eastern promontory of Staten-land, Cape John; which our
+chronometers fixed, almost precisely, in the same longitude assigned to
+it by Captain Cook. I now steered a westerly course along the south
+coast of Staten-land, contrary to the usual practice of navigators, who
+run from hence to 60 degrees South, expecting in that latitude to meet
+with fewer impediments to their passage into the South Sea. Experience
+has taught me, moreover, that Cape Horn may be doubled with least loss
+of time by keeping near land, where in the summer months good east winds
+will often blow, when westerly winds prevail at a distance of forty
+miles to sea-ward. When we had passed Staten-land, the Terra del Fuego
+lay in equally fearful form to our right. We continued our course with a
+moderate north-east wind, and remarked a strong current to the north.</p>
+
+<p>On the noon of the following day we perceived the terrible Cape Horn at
+a distance of twenty-five miles, lying in the form of a high, round
+mountain before us. A calm, of which we took<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> advantage to shoot some
+albatrosses, delayed us for a few hours; but on Christmas-day we doubled
+the Cape without the slightest difficulty. In the evening, after sailing
+close alongside the little rocky island of Diego Ramirez, inhabited by
+immense numbers of sea-birds, we found ourselves in the South Sea. A
+favourable east wind swelling our sails, on the 28th of December, we did
+our best to clear the island of Terra del Fuego, before a west wind
+should impede our progress; but in this we were disappointed, for a
+sudden storm drove us out of our course to latitude 59&frac12;&deg;. Here, for a
+New Year's gift, we fell in with a fresh south wind, which helped us
+forward at the rate of eleven miles an hour, and continued to swell our
+sails, till on the 5th we lost sight of the Terra del Fuego, and
+joyfully continued our voyage northwards. At Cape Horn, Reaumur's
+thermometer stood at four degrees; a temperature rendered very
+disagreeable by our having so recently suffered from oppressive heat. We
+now hailed with renewed enjoyment the daily increasing warmth.</p>
+
+<p>My sailors had heard much of the dreadful storms which raged at all
+seasons round Cape<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> Horn, and destroyed so many ships. One of them had
+recently read to his messmates the history of Lord Anson's unfortunate
+voyage: they were therefore not quite free from apprehension on
+approaching this dangerous point, and were agreeably surprised at
+passing it so quietly. In their joy they hit on the proud, poetical
+idea, that the very elements themselves respected the Russian flag. This
+bold imagination took such possession of their minds, that, in the
+elevation of their spirits, they resolved to represent it in a
+pantomime, to which I willingly assented, as my own cheerfulness greatly
+depended on theirs. Accordingly, a throne was erected on the capstan,
+adorned with coloured flags and streamers, which we were to take for the
+extreme point of Cape Horn, upon which, shrouded in red drapery, with
+all becoming dignity and seriousness of aspect, sat the hitherto unknown
+God Horn, (begotten and born of the sailors' fancy,) the tremendous
+ruler of the winds and waves in this tempestuous ocean. In his strong
+right hand he held a large three-pronged oven fork, and in his left a
+telescope, with which he <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span>surveyed the watery expanse seeking for a
+sacrifice. A grey beard smeared with tar, hung down to his knees, and,
+probably as a symbol of his marine dominion, instead of a crown, his
+head was decorated by a leathern pail. Before him lay a large open book,
+and a pen was stuck behind his ear, to write down the names of the ships
+which sailed by. The exact purpose of this I could not understand, but
+the effect was equally good. Upon the lower step of the throne stood two
+full-cheeked sailors, very much painted, holding bellows, to represent
+the Winds ready to produce a raging whirlwind at the nod of their ruler.
+The God seemed in a very ill humour, till at the appearance of a
+three-masted ship, made of some planks nailed together, his visage
+suddenly cleared. The crew of the vessel, which was in full sail,
+pointed to the Cape, and appeared to rejoice in the expectation of
+doubling it safely. Then did the God Horn give the ominous nod, and the
+bellows began to work. The ship took in her sails with all possible
+expedition, but was nevertheless terribly tossed about. The crew, in
+danger of perishing, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span>offered their supplications to the God, who at
+length relenting, commanded the winds to subside, and suffered the
+vessel to pass on in safety. Soon after another vessel appeared bearing
+our flag, which the God no sooner perceived than he descended from his
+throne, took the pail respectfully from his head, and made a profound
+obeisance, in token of homage to the Russian flag. The &AElig;olian attendants
+blew the gentlest gales, and we soon vanished with out-stretched sails
+behind our own main-mast. The piece concluded amidst universal applause,
+and a double portion of grog served to increase the general
+cheerfulness.</p>
+
+<p>Thus opened the year 1824.&mdash;The crew believed that, with the passage of
+Cape Horn, the greatest danger of the voyage was over, and were full of
+life and spirits. On the 15th of January we saw far off the Island of
+St. Maria, and on the following morning knew, by the two high mountains
+called Biobio's Bosom, from the river which flows between them, that we
+were approaching the Bay of Conception. As soon as these hills are
+clearly distinguished, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> entrance to the bay is easily found.&mdash;In
+fine weather they are excellent guides.</p>
+
+<p>A brisk south wind carried us swiftly towards the land, which, far from
+charming the eye with the picturesque beauty of Brazil, presents an
+almost undeviating straight line.&mdash;The round sides of the mountains are
+but sparingly covered with vegetation, and in this dry season had a
+sterile appearance. At noon, having doubled the Island of Quiquirino, at
+the the mouth of the bay, we found ourselves in a smooth and spacious
+sheet of water, surrounded by crowds of sea-dogs, dolphins, whales, and
+water-birds, which abound on the coasts of Chili. This part of the
+country is but thinly inhabited, and a few poor and scattered huts only
+are visible. During the centuries that it has been in possession of the
+Spaniards, it has advanced as little as their other colonies in
+cultivation or civilization.</p>
+
+<p>The calm made it impossible on that day to reach the village of
+Talcaguana, where ships usually lie at anchor, and we were consequently
+obliged in the evening to lay-to at some miles distance.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span></p><p>At twelve o'clock at night, the watch on deck observed a large boat
+approaching with caution to within reach of musket-shot. This slinking
+about in the dark had a suspicious appearance, especially as the colony
+having revolted against the mother-country, was in a state of war. Want
+of light prevented our learning the strength of the boat's crew, or what
+arms it carried; but we prepared to repel an attack, in which, however,
+it was manifest the advantage would be greatly on our side. I ordered
+the watch to hail the boat, which in return addressed us through a
+trumpet, first in Spanish, and immediately afterwards in English,
+inquiring to what nation we belonged, and whence, and for what purpose,
+we were come. Upon our reply that we were Russians and good friends, the
+boat came nearer, and an officer, well armed with sword and pistols,
+came on deck, but was so alarmed on perceiving our state of warlike
+preparations, that he did not utter a word till he had satisfied himself
+that we were really Russians, and had no hostile intentions.</p>
+
+<p>The cause of his fear lay in the report of a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> Spanish frigate having
+been seen cruising on the coast. This officer was an Englishman, in the
+service of the republic of Chili, and lieutenant of a corvette lying
+before Talcaguana. He left us with a request, (which was immediately
+complied with,) that we would hoist a lantern at our fore-mast, as a
+signal of peace to the inhabitants of Talcaguana, among whom our
+appearance had spread the greatest anxiety.</p>
+
+<p>Early in the morning I sent an officer ashore to notify our arrival in
+proper form to the commandant of the place, and to request his
+permission to furnish ourselves with water and fresh provisions, which
+was granted in the most courteous manner possible.</p>
+
+<p>Sure of a favourable reception, I immediately weighed anchor, and,
+having a good wind, dropped it again at noon, at the distance of a
+musket-shot from Talcaguana, in a depth of five and a half fathoms,
+after having been fifty days on the voyage from Rio Janeiro, during the
+whole of which time the crew had enjoyed the most perfect health.
+Besides our own ship, and the above-mentioned corvette, commanded<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> by
+Captain Simson, three merchant ships under Chilian, and three whalers
+under English colours also lay here. In the afternoon I went ashore
+myself, and paid the Commandant a visit; I was received in the most
+friendly manner, but with a good deal of Spanish etiquette, by an old
+man, who was evidently a zealous republican. He told me, that the first
+President of the Republic, Freire, whose authority, he gave me to
+understand, would be very instrumental in furthering his efforts to
+assist us, was at that moment in the town of Conception. Thither,
+therefore, I determined to proceed, hoping to see the President, and
+procure from him a written order for our accommodation.</p>
+
+<p>And here, though it interrupt the course of my narrative, I apprehend
+some particulars concerning this country may be agreeable to such of my
+readers as are strangers to it.</p>
+
+<p>The fruitful Chili is a long and narrow strip of coast-land, bathed on
+the West by the Great Ocean, so falsely called the Pacific; divided on
+the North from Peru by the desert tract of Atacoma; and on the East,
+from Buenos Ayres, by the chain of the Cordilleras, or Andes, whose<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span>
+snow-covered summits are diversified by the columns of fire continually
+emitted from numerous volcanoes; on the South it extends as far as the
+Straits of Magellan, and indeed also claims the wholly useless island of
+Terra del Fuego, which is rarely, if ever, visited by a Chilian.</p>
+
+<p>The Spaniard Valdivia may be considered as the real discoverer of Chili.
+He established here the first Spanish settlement, the present capital,
+St. Jago, and subsequently, the town of Conception. For a long time the
+Spaniards were engaged in bloody and uninterrupted war with the original
+inhabitants of the country, called Araucanians. This strong and
+enterprising people withdrew into the mountains, where they were
+invincible, and from whence they have continued, to the present day, to
+annoy the descendants of the intruders, who acknowledge and have
+hitherto respected their independence. They still preserve in their
+mountains and fastnesses their ancient mode of living, and remain
+faithful to the religion and manners of their ancestors. Unluckily for
+the Spaniards, they have become very dangerous neighbours by providing
+themselves<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> with horses, which, as they are skilful riders, enable them
+to execute their predatory expeditions with a rapidity that renders them
+almost always successful. A few of them have settled in the valleys, at
+the foot of the mountains, and adopted the Christian religion, without
+however amalgamating with the Spaniards, or losing their freedom.</p>
+
+<p>The lower class of the present inhabitants of Chili is a mixed race,
+sprung from the union of Spaniards with Araucanian women: they are well
+grown, of a dark brown complexion, and have a lively red in their
+cheeks. The men are all good riders, and have brought to great
+perfection the art of catching wild animals with the <i>lasso</i>. The upper
+classes have preserved their Spanish blood pure: they are also very well
+formed, the females nearly always handsome, and some of them remarkably
+beautiful. La P&eacute;rouse found them decorated with metal rings; they now
+adorn themselves with much taste in Parisian fashions, which reach them
+by the way of Peru: their manners, though they do not approach so nearly
+to the forms of European society as do those of the upper ranks<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> in Rio
+Janeiro, are nevertheless not deficient in refinement.</p>
+
+<p>The climate resembles that of the middle of France, and vegetation
+thrives abundantly in its fertile soil. Among many kinds of native
+animals, the wild goats are the most numerous, and are scarcely ever
+tamed. Chili is particularly rich in beautiful birds; troops of parrots
+are seen on the wing; humming-birds, and butterflies of all kinds, hover
+round the flowers, and swarms of lantern-flies sparkle through the
+night; while venomous insects and snakes are unknown.</p>
+
+<p>This fine country has been long neglected. Spanish jealousy allowed no
+trade with foreign nations; and the introduction of the Inquisition was
+sufficient to prevent all mental advancement. The inhabitants are also
+justly accused of idleness, in not having taken more advantage of the
+productiveness of their soil. Now, however, that they have thrown off
+the yoke under which their industry was oppressed, and burst the fetters
+of the Inquisition, which bowed down their minds, they begin to be
+ashamed of the low grade of civilization on which they stand,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> in
+comparison with other nations, and are exerting themselves to attain a
+more respectable station in the scale.</p>
+
+<p>The Chilians are chiefly indebted for their independence to the
+well-known General San Martin. In the year 1817, he made the celebrated
+campaign over the Andes from Buenos Ayres, attacked and completely
+defeated the Spaniards, and laid the foundation of the freedom of Chili.
+It is now governed by plenipotentiaries from all the provinces, under
+the presidency of General Freire.</p>
+
+<p>The Bay of Conception is a most eligible resting-place for the voyager
+in these seas to touch at, on account of its safe and commodious
+harbour, its abundant supply of provisions, and the healthiness of its
+climate. Evidently destined by nature for the central point of Chilian
+commerce, it must certainly supersede the unsafe roads of Valparaiso.
+Freire has already determined to establish an Admiralty in the
+neighbourhood of Talcaguana, and as much as possible to encourage the
+population of that part of the country. The village of Talcaguana,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span>
+consisting of about fifty small and poor houses, and another still
+smaller, called Pencu, have been the only settlements on this bay since
+the destruction, in the year 1751, of the old town of Conception by an
+earthquake&mdash;no uncommon occurrence in these regions. The new town of
+this name has been built farther inland, on the banks of the beautiful
+river Biobio, and is seven miles distant from Talcaguana.</p>
+
+<p>Early in the morning on the 18th of January, I went with Dr. Eschscholtz
+to Talcaguana, where horses were in waiting to take us to Conception.
+The heavy, clumsy cars drawn by oxen, which I believe I described in my
+former voyage, are the only kind of carriage known here; and as even the
+ladies use these only on state occasions, they perform all their
+journeys, as in days of old, on horseback.</p>
+
+<p>The Russian flag having waved here but twice since the foundation of the
+world, curiosity had brought a great crowd to witness my disembarkation;
+and as it was now ascertained that the Captain was the same who, eight
+years before, had so much delighted the inhabitants with a ball, many<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span>
+of my old acquaintances and guests had assembled to welcome me. I could
+not resist their kind and pressing invitations to visit them once more,
+before going to Conception. I was received with the greatest cordiality,
+and all possible pains were taken to entertain me; but they complained
+sadly of the ravages of war, which had brought its usual concomitants,
+poverty and ruin, in its train. A melancholy change had taken place
+since my former visit; some of the wealthiest families had removed from
+Lima, and a striking difference was perceptible in the establishments of
+those that remained; while the silver utensils which formerly had been
+so common even among the poorer inhabitants, had wholly disappeared, and
+were replaced by a bad description of stone ware.</p>
+
+<p>The same traces of desolation were visible along the once beautiful road
+to Conception, whither we proceeded on spirited horses, as soon as we
+had paid the required visits. Instead of the numerous flocks and herds
+which once adorned the meadows, burnt villages, uncultivated fields,
+devastated orchards, and swarms of beggars, presented a painful picture<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span>
+of universal want and misery. Such are the heavy sacrifices with which
+Chili has purchased her independence. May she enjoy their fruits under a
+government sufficiently wise and powerful to restore her prosperity!</p>
+
+<p>Our two hours' ride afforded ample time and scope for these reflections;
+and on reaching the town, we were concerned to find similar symptoms of
+misfortune. A great part of it lay in ruins; and the houses yet standing
+were occupied, not by useful citizens, or active, speculating merchants,
+but by soldiers. The former have, with few exceptions, withdrawn from
+Conception to Mexico and Peru. But the war of the Revolution is not
+chargeable with all the desolation which has befallen this unhappy town.
+A year before it broke out, a great horde of wild Araucanians, availing
+themselves of an opportunity when the Chilian troops were elsewhere
+employed, fell so suddenly upon the town during the night, that the
+inhabitants, who had not the slightest warning till the enemy was within
+their walls, were unable to defend themselves. Well knowing that they
+could not maintain their post, the Araucanians were active<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> in the work
+of rapine and murder, and at length withdrew to their mountains laden
+with rich booty.</p>
+
+<p>These Araucanians, among whom such expeditions are not unfrequent, are,
+according to the accounts of officers here, a very warlike people, well
+armed with bows, arrows, and lances: they make their onset in great
+hordes, with a wild yell, and with such fury and rapidity that it is not
+easy even for regular troops to resist. If this, however, can be firmly
+withstood, they are in a few minutes defeated and put to flight. When
+pursued, they escape shots and sabre strokes by the dexterity with which
+they fling themselves on either side of their horses; sometimes even
+hanging under the horse's belly while it is going at full gallop. When
+escape is impossible, they defend themselves to the last, preferring
+death to captivity.</p>
+
+<p>From Rio Janeiro I had brought a letter of introduction to a once rich
+and still prosperous merchant in Conception, named Mendiburu; I
+immediately sought him out, and was received and entertained with the
+kindest hospitality. His house proved to be the same which, on my<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span>
+former visit to Conception, the then Governor had appointed for my
+accommodation. At that time many discontented spirits had already shown
+themselves, had assumed the appellation of patriots, and were persecuted
+by the Government; Mendiburu was one of these, and having made his
+escape, the Government, till its overthrow, had kept possession of his
+house.</p>
+
+<p>My complaisant host, a little man, rather advanced in years, who in many
+respects was extremely useful to us, accompanied us, as soon as we had
+arranged our dress, to the President Freire. The latter received us in
+the full uniform of a general officer, with the most ceremonious
+politeness, but still kindly, although something of distrust might be
+perceived in his deportment.</p>
+
+<p>Our circumstances with respect to Spain were known; and, as I afterwards
+learned, it was absurdly enough imagined, that Russia had designs upon
+Chili, and that these formed the secret motive of our visit. Freire, who
+had already distinguished himself as a general, is a stately-looking
+man, at that time about forty-five years of age, and of a very agreeable
+exterior;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> he was born in Talcaguana, of very poor parents, and, without
+enjoying any particular advantage of education, has raised himself, by
+his own merit alone, to the high rank he occupies.</p>
+
+<p>After an unmeaning sort of conversation, consisting of little else than
+civilities, I endeavoured to procure the permission of the President for
+our naturalist and mineralogist to make a journey into the Cordilleras,
+which he, however, politely but positively refused, on the ground that
+the Chilians were at war with the people in the mountains. I afterwards
+learnt from Mendiburu, that this was merely a pretence, as the President
+had already succeeded in establishing peace and an amicable league with
+the Araucanians. A small military escort would therefore have been amply
+sufficient to protect the travellers from all danger of annoyance; but
+here the weakness of the newly established government betrayed itself.
+They are distrustful of strangers, and act upon the old Spanish
+maxim,&mdash;to close the interior of the country against them. The recent
+discovery of gold and silver mines in the mountains, which was still
+kept secret, from the fear that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> foreign powers might covet these
+treasures, probably, also, contributed to a refusal which has
+undoubtedly proved, for the present, a serious loss to science. All the
+arguments I could urge to obviate the President's objections were
+ineffectual: all I could obtain for our learned associates was
+permission to travel round the bay of Conception and the environs of
+Talcaguana, for which a passport was made out; and a subaltern officer
+was appointed to accompany them, who in all probability had also his
+private instructions to see that the journey extended no farther.</p>
+
+<p>Overwhelmed with courtesies and promises to make our residence here as
+agreeable as possible, we left the President, and concluded the day in
+pleasant society at the house of our host Mendiburu, who on the
+following morning accompanied us back to Talcaguana. He had the
+complaisance to surrender for our accommodation and the convenience of
+our astronomical observations, a large house belonging to him in
+Talcaguana, which had once been inhabited by La P&eacute;rouse. I took
+immediate possession of it, and our time was now very agreeably<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> divided
+between the necessary attention to the repairs and provisioning of the
+ship, scientific observations, and the society of the hospitable
+natives.</p>
+
+<p>The little town was soon filled with warlike tumult. A grenadier
+regiment from Conception marched in with drums beating and a very good
+band playing. The uniform was in the French fashion, clean and
+substantial; the muskets were in the best order.</p>
+
+<p>Freire has most zealously exerted himself to raise a respectable army;
+but to bring a rabble of adventurers from all nations into proper
+discipline is no easy task, especially where there is not money enough
+to pay them punctually; even the officers are mostly foreigners, and,
+with few exceptions, ignorant and stupid beyond all belief. With such a
+soldiery, patriotism or enthusiasm in the cause is of course out of the
+question. The Chilian soldier fights like a robber, for the sake of the
+booty he hopes to acquire; and covetousness will form the foundation of
+his valour, till increase of population shall permit the organization of
+a national militia.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span></p><p>A few regiments had been sent over to the island of Quiquirino, perhaps
+in order to render desertion more difficult: here they had formed a
+camp, and were exercised in various man&#339;uvres. The whole force,
+consisting of three thousand men, was destined, under the command of the
+President, to attack the island of Chiloe, the only spot still remaining
+in possession of the Spaniards. They were now waiting the arrival of the
+requisite vessels from Valparaiso.</p>
+
+<p>On the 20th of January, amidst the thunder of the artillery, a new
+Constitution was proclaimed at Conception, signed there in great form by
+Freire, and afterwards read in many other towns of the Republic. Some of
+the inhabitants received it with enthusiasm, but it by no means gave
+satisfaction to all. In Talcaguana, opinions were much divided, and
+loudly and undisguisedly expressed. In every company the new
+Constitution became the chief subject of conversation, and often gave
+occasion to violent disputes. Even the ladies were not exempt from this
+political mania: they gave their opinions with unhesitating confidence
+and decision, and,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> in fact, often appeared fully as capable of forming
+a correct judgment as the men.</p>
+
+<p>Without entering into these criticisms, I shall only remark, that one
+regulation of the Chilian Constitution must certainly be
+disadvantageous&mdash;the public exercise of any other religion than the
+Catholic is forbidden; Catholics only can fill civil offices (with the
+military such strictness is impracticable); nor is any one permitted to
+carry on a mechanical trade who does not belong to this Church.</p>
+
+<p>If the advantage of universal toleration is so evident in the most
+flourishing states, how much more desirable must it be for one so thinly
+peopled, and where industry and knowledge are so little advanced.</p>
+
+<p>We frequently received visits on board from the ladies and gentlemen of
+Chili; and once from an Araucanian chief, accompanied by his daughter
+and some attendants. A collation was prepared for the Araucanians, of
+which they heartily partook; and despising the knife and fork, helped
+themselves plentifully with their fingers. The meal being concluded, we
+made them some trifling presents, with which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> they were much delighted;
+the chief also begged a piastre, and his daughter (a true woman, though
+a savage,) a looking-glass. After she had contemplated her features for
+some time with much satisfaction, the treasure was passed from hand to
+hand among her people, who all appeared extremely well content with the
+reflection of their own faces, although, according to our ideas of
+beauty, none of them had any cause for vanity. They are of the middle
+stature, strongly built, and of dark complexions. Their hair is black,
+and hangs loosely over their shoulders; and their little Chinese eyes,
+and prominent cheek-bones, seemed to indicate an Asiatic origin. The
+expression of their faces is good-natured, lively, and rather
+intelligent. Their dress is very simple, consisting merely of a piece of
+many-coloured striped woollen stuff of their own manufacture: in shape,
+it is an oblong square, with a hole in the centre through which the head
+is passed, the longer ends hanging down to the knee before and behind,
+the shorter at each side falling over the shoulders, and the lower part
+of their limbs remaining bare. The Spanish Chilians call this garment a
+<i>pancho</i>,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> and often use it in winter as a surtout: among the common
+people it makes the daily, and sometimes even the only clothing.</p>
+
+<p>The officers of the regiment stationed here politely gave a ball in our
+honour, which, as might be expected in this poor village, did not prove
+very brilliant; but as my young officers found plenty of pretty and
+agreeable partners, they were perfectly satisfied. The old custom of
+opening a ball with a minuet is still practised here, and the Chilians
+dance it remarkably well.</p>
+
+<p>Besides the dances common among us, a sort of fandango is a favourite
+here: it is expressly adapted to display the graces of a fine figure to
+the best advantage, and is danced by two persons, whose picturesque
+attitudes and motions are accompanied on the guitar, and by tender
+songs, according in expression with the pantomimical representations of
+the dance.</p>
+
+<p>We determined to return the complaisance of the natives by giving a ball
+on board our ship to our acquaintances in Talcaguana, and some from
+Conception. My officers made every effort to surpass the Chilians in the
+elegance of their entertainment; and having been detained on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> shore
+during their preparations, and till the hour appointed for the ball, I
+was really astonished to see how much they had been able to achieve. The
+deck was changed into a large illuminated saloon, decorated with fine
+myrtle trees, luxuriant garlands, and bouquets of flowers of every
+colour, exhaling the sweetest perfumes, and appropriate transparencies
+in the background opposite the entrance. The cabins had been cleared for
+refreshment-rooms; and the musicians, concealed behind a curtain, were
+to pour forth their animating strains unseen by the dancers. The
+cheerful scene was rapidly filled with cheerful faces; graceful figures
+moved in the lively dances; and love and beauty alone seemed to preside
+within the joyous precincts. But suddenly a universal confusion and
+panic terror was spread among the company, and chiefly among the ladies.
+Some suspicious simpleton or mischievous wag had whispered that we had a
+design of secretly weighing anchor during this festivity, and sailing
+away with our beautiful prisoners. My friend Mendiburu, however, at
+length succeeded in banishing this ridiculous apprehension, and
+restoring tranquillity.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> Pleasure and confidence again reigned over the
+revels, till the sun stood high in the heavens; and like every other
+earthly enjoyment, even our ball drew to a close, though it bade fair to
+linger long in the recollection as well of our returning guests as of
+some of the young entertainers.</p>
+
+<p>The delightful weather tempted us, soon after this, to make an excursion
+to the opposite shores of the bay, and visit the ruins of the old town
+of Conception. Mendiburu was of the party, as were all of our scientific
+brethren, and as many of the officers as duty permitted to be absent.
+Very early, on a beautiful morning, we distributed our party in three
+large boats, and rowed, in two hours, to the destined point. We landed
+at the village of Pencu, which, like Portici upon Herculaneum, is built
+upon the ruins of the former town of Conception, and whose inhabitants
+live quietly and cheerfully over the graves of their unfortunate
+predecessors, and disturb themselves little with the thought, that the
+same fate may bury them one day in a living tomb.</p>
+
+<p>About fifteen houses, surrounded by gardens,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> lie scattered here over a
+lovely plain, watered by the small river St. Peter. Nature here appears
+more luxuriant and productive than at Talcaguana. The mountains which
+encircle this valley rise gently to a moderate height, and delight the
+eye by the freshness of the shrubs with which they are covered.</p>
+
+<p>While we gave chase to many kinds of birds and insects for the
+improvement of our collection, the sailors threw out a great net, and
+took a quantity of shell and other fish with which the sea abounds in
+this neighbourhood, and which make the chief subsistence of the poorer
+classes of people. The environs of this village are considered the
+loveliest district round the bay, and infinitely surpassing Talcaguana
+in the beauty of its scenery. Few remains of the old town are visible.
+The earth seems to have actually opened and swallowed it up, leaving
+scarcely a trace behind. Even the yawning gulph in which it sunk has
+filled again, so that it is only here and there upon the plain that some
+fragment of a former dwelling reminds one of the fearful catastrophe.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of Talcaguana and Conception<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> make excursions to Pencu,
+to examine, as a curiosity, a water-mill established there by some
+foreigner. We found it so out of repair as to be unserviceable, and the
+owner complained that he could find no one capable of mending it. The
+wheat is here ground to flour by beating it in stone pots with heavy
+wooden clubs; which may serve to give some idea of the progress the
+Chilians have made in the useful arts.</p>
+
+<p>Mendiburu possessed an estate near Pencu, where we partook of a pleasant
+meal under the shade of fruit-trees. After dinner the whole company went
+shooting, and in the course of a few hours had killed several hundred
+water-birds of various kinds. The flocks in which they fly are sometimes
+so numerous as to darken the air. During our absence such a one was
+descried from the ship; it appeared a solid mass of about ten fathoms
+broad, and its flight lasted full three hours.</p>
+
+<p>The repairs of our ship had gone on quickly, and the time approached for
+our leaving Chili, when we perceived that the friendliness and civility
+we had hitherto experienced from the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span>inhabitants was changing into
+reserve and evident distrust. Secret cabals were going on against us;
+and even the Government seemed inclined to act, if not with positive
+hostility, at least violently and arbitrarily towards us.</p>
+
+<p>The attention of the unreflecting and easily excited Chilians had first
+been attracted by the mustachios worn by one of my companions. They took
+him for a disguised Spaniard, who had accompanied us to sow discontents,
+and gain back the hearts of the people to the old government. Other
+misrepresentations may also have been made against us; but we were
+neither able to discover them, nor the actual intentions entertained
+towards us.</p>
+
+<p>When the ship was ready to sail, and I thought to quit Talcaguana in a
+few days, I returned to Conception to take leave of the President
+Freire. While on the road, being mounted on a spirited horse, I had got
+a little the start of my companions, and was stopping on a height to
+contemplate the beautiful landscape around me, when a well-dressed young
+man, coming from the direction of the town, suddenly met me, stood
+still, looking attentively<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> at me for some moments, and then asked if I
+were the Captain of the Russian frigate. On my answering in the
+affirmative, after ascertaining that we were not observed, he said, "You
+are aware that the two parties in this country are differently disposed
+towards you. The day after to-morrow the officers of the regiment in
+Talcaguana will give you a farewell ball, when they intend to overpower
+the Russian officers, and take them prisoners. I have adopted this
+method of making you acquainted with the design; be on your guard." With
+these words he disappeared among the high shrubs. As soon as my
+companions came up, I took Mendiburu aside, and told him what I had just
+heard. Honourable and warm-hearted, my friend at first grew pale with
+astonishment and vexation; but, after a few moments' consideration, he
+felt convinced, and assured me, that the thing was impossible, and that
+my unknown monitor must be in error. At the same time we both
+determined, immediately on our arrival in Conception, to mention the
+circumstance to the President. Freire received me in a very friendly
+manner, and so <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span>confidently affirmed the project attributed to his
+officers, to be a mere "coinage of the brain" of my informant, that I
+trusted to his opinion, and thought no more of it, especially as our own
+ball had furnished a proof how easily the silliest and most groundless
+reports could gain credit.</p>
+
+<p>After leaving the President, I passed the remainder of the day, and
+slept, at the house of my friend Mendiburu. As I was preparing to go to
+bed, I heard a gentle knock at my room door; I opened it, and a servant
+of the house came timidly in. He told me that he was a Spaniard, and had
+been a sailor on board a frigate captured by the Chilians, and that his
+present master had taken him into his service, when a prisoner of war.
+He then gave me, under the most earnest injunctions not to betray him,
+the same caution which I had before received, adding some curses on the
+Chilian Government and people, whom he declared to be altogether a set
+of vagabonds and thieves. This repeated warning was too striking not to
+excite some apprehension. I took all the circumstances into
+consideration; and though the motive for such a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> proceeding remained
+perfectly incomprehensible, I still resolved to take measures for my
+security, in case it should be really attempted. I passed a sleepless
+night, and early in the morning bade adieu to my kind host, to whom I
+was unable to impart my new cause of anxiety, and hastened back to
+Talcaguana. On my arrival there, I found cards inviting myself and all
+my officers to a ball on the following evening: so far, therefore, the
+information I had received was correct. To avoid the appearance of
+suspicion, I accepted the invitation, and went to the ball accompanied
+by a few of my officers. The rest remained on board the ship, having
+placed her so as to bring her guns to bear upon the house in which the
+ball was given, and to command the respect of the neighbourhood. Thus
+Talcaguana was at our mercy; nor had we any thing to fear, either from
+the armed corvette, or the battery on shore; the former being so
+situated that it must needs have struck to our first broadside, and the
+latter mounting only six guns quite unfit for use, and resting upon
+broken carriages. We had also removed our observatory, and conveyed all
+our<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> effects on board. These imposing preparations did not in all
+probability remain unobserved; at all events, the ball passed off
+quietly enough; but it was remarkable that very few of the officers who
+had given it were present; and instead of the gaiety which had reigned
+on the two former occasions, the greatest constraint was evident in the
+deportment of the company, who separated at an unusually early hour.</p>
+
+<p>At daybreak we weighed anchor, to resume our voyage; but before we were
+in motion, my faithful friend Mendiburu, who had travelled in the night
+from Conception, came on board with the news that a Chilian frigate and
+a corvette, which had arrived two days before from Valparaiso with
+troops, now lay at anchor at the mouth of the bay, and had received
+orders to prevent our departure. He had no idea what could have induced
+his government, against which he was excessively indignant, to meditate
+such an outrage; but he felt assured that the ships were by no means in
+a condition to obey. When in full sail, I parted from Mendiburu, for the
+second time, with hearty thanks for his sympathy and assistance.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span></p><p>I now ordered the ship and guns to be prepared for battle, in case it
+should prove necessary to force our way out. We proceeded with a fresh
+and favouring breeze so rapidly, that in an hour's time we could
+distinguish the two vessels lying at anchor near the island of
+Quiquirino. As we approached, a gun was fired from the frigate, on which
+signal both ships got under sail, and took a direction that would enable
+them to oppose our progress. No longer doubting their hostile
+intentions, I lessened my sail to make the ship more manageable during
+the expected engagement. The matches were lighted, and every one stood
+at his post; but the Chilian frigate, a bad sailer, having run too far
+to leeward, could not come up to the assistance of the corvette which
+endeavoured to dispute our passage; but clearly perceiving, when within
+gun-shot, that we were prepared to resist an attack, found it most
+prudent to sail peaceably on, contenting herself with calling something
+to us through a trumpet, which we could not understand. Pursuing our
+course in an opposite direction, we were soon at a considerable distance
+from the corvette, and then saw the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> frigate tacking to follow us; but
+having already greatly the advantage, and the mouth of the bay clear
+before us, we rehoisted our sails, and without waiting for further
+evidence of Chilian hostility, stood out to sea; thus escaping attempts
+upon our liberty, the real motive of which, perhaps, was a desire to
+employ our ships in the transport of troops to Chiloe. The two English
+whalers had already been taken possession of for this purpose, without
+the consent of their captains.</p>
+
+<p>The result of our observations on land are as follows:</p>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Mendiburu">
+<tr><td class="td1">Latitude from Mendiburu's house in Talcaguana</td><td class="td2">36&deg; 42' 15"</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="td1">West Longitude</td><td class="td2">73&deg; 8' 20"</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="td1">Declination of the needle</td><td class="td2">14&deg; East</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="td1">Inclination</td><td class="td2">80&deg; 4'</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>The tide is here quite imperceptible. During the whole time of our stay,
+Reaumur's thermometer stood between 15 and 17 degrees.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101-02]</a></span></p>
+<p class="t5">THE DANGEROUS ARCHIPELAGO.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="THE_DANGERROUS_ARCHIPELAGO" id="THE_DANGERROUS_ARCHIPELAGO"></a>THE DANGEROUS ARCHIPELAGO.</h2>
+
+<p></p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> many islands composing this Archipelago, and which the little
+coralline insects have built in the midst of the ocean, are so low, that
+they are invisible at a very trifling distance. From this cause they
+have often, in darkness or bad weather, proved dangerous to navigation,
+and have thence derived their name. It was my intention now, to
+ascertain exactly the geographical position of the islands which I had
+discovered on my former voyage. O Tahaiti was to serve as a point from
+which to determine the longitude, and at the same time to furnish us
+with provisions.</p>
+
+<p>I directed my course to this Archipelago, between the parallels of 15
+and 16 degrees of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> South latitude, because this is not the usual track
+of merchants' ships, nor has it been taken in voyages of discovery, so
+that I thought it not improbable that we might fall in with other
+unknown islands. In pursuance of this plan, we steered north-west, for
+the above mentioned parallel. An uninterrupted fresh south wind having
+carried us six hundred and sixty miles forwards in three days, brought
+us into the hot climate so suddenly, that we were much inconvenienced by
+it. The island of Juan Fernandez, whither the Spaniards, when masters in
+Chili, used to banish criminals and republicans, lay on our left, and
+the little uninhabited rocky islands of Felix and Ambrosia at a little
+distance on our right. After rapidly gaining the Southern Tropic, our
+voyage, though pleasant, was far more tranquil; the slightness of the
+motion between the Tropics, admits of employment on board a ship, for
+which a sailor has generally little opportunity; even drawings may be
+executed in the neatest manner.</p>
+
+<p>On the 17th February we found ourselves under eighteen degrees of South
+latitude, and a hundred and five degrees longitude. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> weather
+continued fine and serene, and our men expressed a wish to interrupt the
+uniformity of their lives, by getting up a play. The theatre was
+prepared, the play-bills given out, and the orchestra had even made the
+signal for the company to assemble, when our merriment was suddenly
+changed into terror and distress; another sailor fell overboard. He had
+been keeping watch on the fore-mast, to provide for our safety against
+land and shallows, in this untried region, and having neglected to
+secure his own, fell a sacrifice to his thoughtlessness. Being injured
+by the fall, he immediately sunk, and all our efforts to save him proved
+fruitless. Separated as we had long been from our native country, the
+loss of a member of our little society, thus bound together through good
+or ill fortune, was sensibly felt; the poor fellow was, besides, one of
+our best sailors: in the most violent storms, he had often executed the
+most dangerous tasks at the mast-head with the greatest skill, and now
+in the finest weather, with the ship moving in a manner scarcely
+perceptible, was he destined to end, thus suddenly, his active and
+useful life.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span></p><p>Having sailed four thousand miles in three weeks, since we left Chili,
+we reached the neighbourhood of the dangerous Archipelago. By degrees we
+now lost, contrary to all rule in this climate, the south-east
+trade-wind, which had hitherto been so favourable to us, and contrary
+winds from the West and North brought us very bad weather. An opinion
+has been hitherto entertained, that the coral islands, from lying so low
+and in small masses, could produce no change in the atmosphere, and that
+the trade-winds, to which they offered no obstruction, would continue to
+blow uninterruptedly in their neighbourhood. Repeated experience has,
+however, convinced me that this is an error, and that these little
+islands, at certain seasons, often cause variations from the ordinary
+tropical weather.</p>
+
+<p>On the 26th of February, we entered 16&deg; of latitude, and 129&deg; of
+longitude. The wind blew from the West: black clouds labouring upwards,
+covered the sky; violent and sudden gusts expended their fury on us, and
+lightnings flashed from every corner of the horizon. The night was
+really dreadful, and the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span>tempest continued to rage, through a darkness
+which, but for the lightning, would have been total, while torrents of
+rain swept our decks. Nor did the return of light bring us much relief;
+when about noon the heavens cleared for a short time, and allowed us a
+little respite; the storm set in again with renewed violence, and for
+four days and nights we were condemned to struggle with this tremendous
+weather. It is surprising how such tempests can arise at so great a
+distance from land. In the ship Rurik, in this same region, at the same
+season of year, I have before met with similar though scarcely such
+furious storms. On the 2nd of March the tropical wind returned, and
+brought with it clearer weather. It was indeed very hot, (Reaumur's
+thermometer did not fall even in the night below 24,) but the whole crew
+continued in good health. On this evening we calculated that we were in
+15&deg; 15' latitude, and 139&deg; 40' longitude; and just as the sun was
+sinking, the man at the mast-head called out that land was in sight. The
+pleasure of making a new discovery set all our telescopes in motion, and
+before night set in we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> plainly distinguished a very low, thickly wooded
+island. Since no navigator, to my knowledge, had ever been here before,
+and the newest charts described nothing but empty space, we conceived we
+had a right to consider ourselves the first discoverers, and named the
+island, after our ship, Predpriatie: we now tacked to stand out to sea
+for the night, and at break of day again made towards the island, under
+feelings of strong excitement. The many telescopes which our eager
+curiosity pointed towards its object, seemed each endued with the
+magical power of conveying different images to the sight. Some of us saw
+what others saw not, till these delusions of the imagination vanished
+before the conviction produced by rising columns of smoke visible to
+all, that the island was inhabited. We could soon afterwards, from the
+mast-head, perceive its entire extent. The dazzling whiteness of the
+coral shore fringed a bright green ground upon which rose a forest of
+palms; and we distinguished canoes moving upon a large lake in the
+centre of the island. By rapid degrees, we approached so near that every
+object <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span>became perceptible with the naked eye. A tall, strong,
+dark-coloured race of naked savages were assembling on the shore, gazing
+on the ship in great agitation, with gestures of astonishment. Some were
+arming with long spears and clubs, others kindling piles of wood,
+probably, that the smoke might be a signal to neighbouring islands of
+their requiring assistance against the unknown sea-monster. From pretty
+huts of plaited reeds, under the shade of bread-fruit trees, the women,
+some of them with children in their arms, were flying to conceal
+themselves in the forest. Such was the commotion our appearance
+occasioned in this little community. A few heroes summoned courage
+enough to advance, with threatening attitudes, to the margin of the
+shore; but no single canoe, though many lay on the coast, ventured to
+approach us. Judging from their size and the good arrangement of their
+sails, these canoes seem intended for visits to other and even distant
+islands. We sailed quite round our new discovery without finding any
+haven by which we could effect a landing; and the sea being tempestuous,
+with a high and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> boisterous surf, we were compelled to renounce our
+desire of becoming more intimately acquainted with the Predpriatians.
+The unclouded sky enabled us, nevertheless, to determine by observation
+the exact latitude and longitude of this little island, whose greatest
+extent is only four miles from E.N.E. to W.S.W. The latitude of its
+central point is 15&deg; 58' 18" South, and its longitude, 140&deg; 11' 30". The
+variation of the needle was 4&deg; East.</p>
+
+<p>When we had finished our observations, I steered a westerly course for
+the island of Araktschief, discovered in the year 1819 by the Russian
+Captain Bellingshausen, in order to convince myself that it was actually
+not the one we had just quitted.</p>
+
+<p>At four o'clock in the afternoon we could already see this island from
+the mast-head, and we reached it before sunset. It bears, with respect
+to size and circumstances, so close a resemblance to that of
+Predpriatie, that they might easily be mistaken, if their relative
+situations were not exactly known.</p>
+
+<p>From our observation, we found the latitude of the centre of the island
+of Araktschief<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> 15&deg; 51' 20" South; and the longitude 140&deg; 50' 50".
+According to Captain Bellingshausen's chart, the latitude is 15&deg; 51',
+the longitude 140&deg; 52'. Unable to discover any traces of inhabitants on
+this island, we should have supposed there were none, had not Captain
+Bellingshausen ascertained the contrary.</p>
+
+<p>At night we retired to some distance from the island and lay-to, that we
+might not, in the darkness, strike on any unknown land. At break of day
+I steered a north-west course, to see the island of Romanzow, (which I
+had formerly discovered when with the ship Rurik,) and convince myself
+of the accuracy of the astronomical observations then made. At eight
+o'clock in the morning we could see the north point of the group of
+Wolchonsky Islands, recently discovered by Captain Bellingshausen. When
+they lay seven miles off us, to the South, we found the longitude,
+according to our chronometers, 142&deg; 2' 38". Bellingshausen considered it
+to be 142&deg; 7' 42".</p>
+
+<p>From failure of wind, we could not make the island of Romanzow till the
+morning of the 8th of March. We then took advantage of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> the clearness of
+the heavens to ascertain, by the distance between the sun and moon, its
+exact longitude, which is 144&deg; 28'. According to the observations we had
+made in the ship Rurik, it was 144&deg; 24', consequently there was a
+difference of only four minutes.</p>
+
+<p>We now steered due West, in order to learn whether the island which, on
+my voyage in the Rurik, I had named after Admiral Spiridow, was really a
+new discovery, or, as has been said, only the most southerly of the King
+George's Islands. A fresh wind favoured our course, and at six o'clock
+in the afternoon we could see this island, my discovery of which has
+been denied, lying before us at a distance of six miles westward.</p>
+
+<p>At the same time, we could distinguish from the mast-head the southern
+part of another island, lying due North, with open water between the
+two. We were in 14&deg; 41' 36" South latitude, and 144&deg; 55' longitude.
+During the night we were becalmed, but in the morning a fresh breeze
+sprang up directly in our teeth, and the current carried us so far to
+the South, that, even from the mast, we could no longer<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> see land. Under
+these circumstances, to attempt to regain the Spiridow Island would have
+been attended by too great loss of time; so that we remained uncertain
+whether this and the other, which we saw in the North, were the two King
+George's Islands or not. I can only say, that if they really are so,
+their discoverer has given their geographical position very
+inaccurately.</p>
+
+<p>The south-east trade-wind had ceased to befriend us, and shifting gusts
+from the north-west and south blew with such violence as frequently to
+tear our sails, accompanied by incessant rain and storm. The sea being
+at the same time remarkably calm, proved that we were surrounded by
+islands, and that, in consequence, the greatest caution was required in
+sailing, especially as the currents in this region are often very
+strong. We soon saw land directly before us; and as in the neighbourhood
+of all coral islands the depth of the sea cannot be sounded at a
+distance of fifty fathoms from the shore, we approached within a mile of
+it. This island stretches ten miles in length, from East to West, and is
+only four miles broad; it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> appeared to be a narrow strip of land,
+thickly overgrown with low bushes, surrounding a lake in the centre.
+Sea-birds only, of which we saw a vast number, appeared to inhabit this
+waste. The latitude of the middle of this island we found to be 15&deg; 27',
+and its longitude 145&deg; 31' 12". According to the chart of Admiral
+Krusenstern, it may be the island called Carlshof, discovered in the
+year 1722, by Roggewin, the geographical position of which is given
+differently on almost every chart, and whose very existence has been
+disputed. We were now in the midst of the dangerous Archipelago, and
+consulted our safety by riding every night only in parts which we had
+surveyed during the day.</p>
+
+<p>After reiterated nightly storms and rains, we shaped our course, with
+full sails, on the return of fine weather, due East, for the Palliser
+Islands discovered by Captain Cook, and reached them in a few hours. On
+board the Rurik, I had only seen their northern side, and I now wished,
+astronomically, to determine the southern. Cook mentions these islands
+very superficially, so that navigators have fallen<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> into many errors
+concerning them. The group consists of a number of small islands
+connected by coral reefs, which form a circular chain, and enclose a
+large piece of water. When we had reached the southern point of the east
+Pallisers, we saw a ridge stretching ten miles westward to two small
+islands, and thence taking a northern direction to unite itself at a
+considerable distance with larger ones.</p>
+
+<p>Cook, from his own account, did not approach near enough to see this
+ridge, and from a distance mistook the two little woody islands it
+embraces for the most southerly of a distinct cluster, which he calls
+the fourth group of Palliser Islands. I can maintain that there are only
+three such groups, as the map which accompanies this volume will show.
+At noon we found our latitude to be 15&deg; 42' 19", and the longitude 146&deg;
+21' 6".</p>
+
+<p>The above-mentioned two small islands on the reef lay directly North,
+and the southern part of the first cluster of Pallisers was no longer
+visible. Viewed from this spot, the smaller ones might have been
+mistaken by us also for part of another group, if we had not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> previously
+ascertained that they were connected with the first by means of the
+reef. The second and third group could also be seen from this point; the
+former to the S.E. the latter S.W.</p>
+
+<p>At six o'clock in the evening, we found ourselves near the eastern point
+of the third group, and saw from the mast-head the Greigh Islands,
+discovered by Captain Bellingshausen. We now steered between these two
+groups, in order to free ourselves from the Archipelago, and regain the
+open sea. Again the night was tempestuous; but a calm occurred in the
+course of it, which, had it lasted longer, would have been dangerous, as
+a strong current was carrying us towards the shore. The morning sun, as
+usual in the Torrid Zone, dispersed the clouds and restored the
+beautiful blue of the tropical sky. We soon lost sight of land, but a
+black cloud still lowered in that part of the horizon where it had
+disappeared; a proof how powerfully these masses of coral attract
+thunder clouds. We now recovered the south-east wind, and favoured by
+it, took the shortest way to O Tahaiti. All the longitudes in the
+dangerous Archipelago<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> which I have given, (without entering into the
+manner in which they were calculated,) are made out by means of the
+chronometer. This, on arriving at O Tahaiti, was found six minutes fifty
+seconds wrong; and the longitudes here given have been rectified
+accordingly.</p>
+
+<p>The following is from our observations the situation of the Palliser
+Islands:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Palliser">
+<tr><td class="td1">South point of the first group</td><td class="td2">Lat. 15&deg; 34' 25"</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="td1">&nbsp;</td><td class="td2">Long. 146&deg; 6' 49"</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="td1">The two small islands to the West of the first group</td><td class="td2">Lat. 15&deg; 30' 15"</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="td1">&nbsp;</td><td class="td2">Long. 146&deg; 20' 50"</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="td1">The Eastern point of the third group</td><td class="td2">Lat. 15&deg; 44' 52"</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="td1">&nbsp;</td><td class="td2">Long. 146&deg; 28' 2".</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>Most of the islands of this Archipelago are inhabited, but hitherto
+little is known of the natives, who are shy, and endeavour to avoid any
+intercourse with navigators. Byron landed by force on one of these
+islands; in the struggle many of the inhabitants were killed, the rest
+put to flight, and the provision of cocoa-nuts found in their huts
+plundered. Tradition may perhaps have exaggerated this attack. Cook also
+permitted some of his crew to land, who indeed met with no resistance,
+but their <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span>presents were received with the greatest indifference, and
+stones were thrown after them on their departure. Captain
+Bellingshausen, in the year 1820, wished to land on one of these
+islands, but the natives opposed his intention so seriously that he
+relinquished it rather than use force. These people resemble the O
+Tahaitians, their neighbours and relatives, in appearance and language;
+and when the latter are farther advanced in civilization, it may be
+presumed that intercourse with them will effect a considerable
+amelioration in the condition of the other South Sea islanders.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119-20]</a></span></p>
+<p class="t5">O TAHAITI.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="O_TAHAITI" id="O_TAHAITI"></a>O TAHAITI.</h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">This</span> beautiful island, so richly endowed by nature with every thing that
+its simple and innocent natives can require for the enjoyment of
+existence, was perhaps first seen by the Spanish voyager Quiras, when,
+in the year 1606, he made an expedition from Lima, "to win," as a
+countryman of his expresses it, "souls for Heaven, and kingdoms for
+Spain." Since, however, the position pointed out by him is extremely
+incorrect, it is uncertain whether the island which he called Sagittaria
+was really O Tahaiti or not. More probably, the honour of the discovery
+belongs to the English Captain Wallis, who in the year 1767 landed
+there, and took possession of the country by a solemn<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> declaration, in
+the name of his King. As, however, the Tahaitians did not understand
+him, this act remained unknown to them; and, notwithstanding a
+subsequent renewal, has fallen into oblivion. Captain Wallis gave it the
+name of King George the Third's Island.</p>
+
+<p>Eight months after him, the French Captain Bougainville visited it; and
+not knowing that Captain Wallis had been there before him, considered
+himself the first discoverer, and called it, from the most remarkable
+custom of the natives, <i>Nouvelle Cyth&egrave;re</i>, but heard that they
+themselves called it Tahaiti, or with the article, O Tahaiti; and this
+name it has retained.</p>
+
+<p>The celebrated Englishman, Cook, stopped there in each of his three
+voyages, between the years 1769 and 1778. He remained much longer in
+communication with the inhabitants than any of his predecessors had
+done; brought back Omai, to whom in London it had been attempted to give
+an European education, to his native land, and made use of the
+narrations he obtained from him during the voyage. Since that time, Cook
+and his companions, particularly the two Forsters, father and son, have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span>
+given us considerable information concerning the condition of the
+Tahaitians before their conversion to the Christian faith.</p>
+
+<p>To estimate the effect of this great change, we must compare Christian
+Tahaiti as it now is, with the accounts these early voyagers have left
+us of its heathen times; and as every reader may not be conveniently
+able to do so, a short review of them may not be considered unwelcome.</p>
+
+<p>The Society Islands, of which Tahaiti is the largest, are, like many
+others, either fragments of a Southern continent swallowed up by
+earthquake, or a mass of rock ejected from the bottom of the sea by
+subterranean fire, which gradually becoming covered with a fertile soil,
+is now adorned by the most beautiful vegetation. It consists of two
+peninsulas united by a narrow isthmus, which together are about one
+hundred and twenty miles in circumference; towards the centre of each
+rise wild rocky mountains, intersected by deep ravines, from the side of
+which, thickly wooded almost to their summits, flow numerous streamlets
+of pure transparent water, forming the most picturesque<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> cascades as
+they descend from every direction into the sea. The high mountains are
+uninhabited, and the settlements made only in the valleys, more
+especially in the low land between the mountains and the sea-shore.</p>
+
+<p>In these charming amphitheatrical landscapes, their houses, consisting
+only of roofs resting on stakes, surrounded and shaded by bananas,
+bread-fruit and cocoa-trees, are scattered at small distances from each
+other.</p>
+
+<p>Attached to every house are enclosed fields, where the proprietors
+cultivate their yams, sweet potatoes, and other wholesome and pleasant
+roots, which form their chief nourishment.</p>
+
+<p>The rest of the cultivated land is filled by plantations of bananas and
+plantains, or little forests of cocoa and bread-fruit trees, so
+luxuriantly interwoven, that the burning rays of the sun cannot
+penetrate to injure the bright verdure which clothes the soil. The
+neatly kept grass footpaths leading through these groves from one
+dwelling to another, are variegated with flowers of the richest colours
+and most fragrant perfumes, and enlivened by the notes of innumerable
+birds arrayed in all the splendid<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> hues of the Tropics. Although Tahaiti
+is only seventeen degrees from the Equator, the heat is so much
+moderated by refreshing breezes that it is very supportable even to an
+European. Bougainville never found it above twenty-two, and often under
+eighteen degrees of Reaumur. That indeed was during the winter; but even
+in January, the middle of the Tahaitian summer, the atmosphere is much
+cooled by the frequent rains. The air is usually dry, clear, and
+particularly healthy; sick people brought ashore from a sea voyage
+recover rapidly. Here are neither ants, musquitoes, nor any of the
+tormenting insects so common in tropical climates; no beast of prey, no
+destructive worm nor serpent; even the scorpion (of which a small sort
+is to be met with) here loses its poison. The only plague of this kind
+is a large rat, which does much mischief in the fields, and sometimes
+even bites the Tahaitians during their sleep.</p>
+
+<p>Bougainville says, "The inhabitants of Tahaiti consist of two distinct
+races, which remain such, although their language and manners are the
+same, and they appear to mingle<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> indiscriminately with each other. One,
+the most numerous, produces the tallest men, commonly six feet and
+upwards; and I have never seen better proportioned, or finer forms. A
+sculptor could not choose a more suitable model for a Mars or a
+Hercules. There is nothing to distinguish their features from those of
+Europeans; and if they were clothed, and less exposed to the air and the
+burning sun, they would be quite as fair. Their hair is usually black
+(Wallis saw fair people, and Banks even Albinos). The other race is of
+middle stature, with coarse curling hair, and resembles the Mulatto in
+complexion and features."</p>
+
+<p>Cook and his companions considered this difference among the Tahaitians
+to arise from the circumstance of the tall fair race, (called Eris,
+which is pronounced <i>Yeri</i>,) the more distinguished class, being less
+exposed to the sun and to hard labour, and their women more reserved and
+less licentious.</p>
+
+<p>We were however more inclined to agree with Bougainville, who supposed
+the dark Tahaitians to be the original inhabitants, and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> Yeris
+invaders, who at some remote period had subjugated them; for the latter
+are the exclusive possessors of the land; the others obtaining only a
+certain remuneration in fruits and vegetables for cultivating the fields
+and plantations of their masters. The kings and all great personages are
+of this race, which is held by the common people in much veneration.</p>
+
+<p>That the language and customs of both races should have assimilated is
+natural; but with respect to their intermarriages, Bougainville was in
+error; the pride of the Yeris keeps them aloof from any such
+connections, which, had they subsisted, must have long since destroyed
+the broad and acknowledged line of distinction. It is, however, only
+fair to confess, that this hypothesis of an invasion is unsupported by
+any Tahaitian tradition.</p>
+
+<p>"The men of both races," continues this traveller, "allow the lower part
+of the beard to grow, but shave the whiskers and the upper lip. Some cut
+their hair short off, others bind it together at the top of the head;
+both hair and beard they grease with the oil of the cocoa-nut. A girdle
+round the middle often serves for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> their only clothing; but the people
+of rank generally wear a large piece of stuff which falls as low as the
+knee. This is the principal garment of the women, who put it on in a
+very becoming manner. The female Yeris, who never expose themselves to
+the sun, and wear a hat of reeds adorned with flowers, which shades the
+face, are fairer than the men: their features are handsome, but they are
+chiefly remarkable for the beauty of their figures, which are not
+spoiled by the artifices of European fashions. They paint their cheeks
+red, and colour the lower part of the body dark blue, as an ornament and
+a distinction of rank.</p>
+
+<p>"Both sexes are tattooed, and both hang rows of pearls or flowers
+through holes pierced in their ears. The greatest cleanliness reigns
+among them; they bathe regularly, and wash themselves before and after
+meals."</p>
+
+<p>The descriptions of other travellers agree perfectly with this; all
+appear to feel the greatest kindness for these "nurselings of joyous
+nature," as some one calls them; and to have been particularly charmed
+with the women, of whom<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> Wallis says, "They are all handsome, and some
+excessively lovely."</p>
+
+<p>The companions of Cook also speak in the highest terms of their
+attractions. Their tall and slender figures; the form of their faces,
+which is agreeable, though rather round than oval; the tender
+transparency of their skin; the complexions which, whether fair or
+brown, are always blooming; the expressive eyes, now flashing fire and
+now swimming in tenderness; the small white, even teeth, and fascinating
+smile, are rapturously described by the younger Forster.</p>
+
+<p>The nose only is defective in these beauties, it is usually too flat,
+but may sometimes be seen as perfectly formed as in the females of
+Europe.</p>
+
+<p>The curse, "in the sweat of thy brow shalt thou eat bread," falls
+harmless on the Tahaitians. Three bread-fruit trees are sufficient for a
+man's subsistence during a year; and he has here only to stretch out his
+hand to obtain this and many other fruits whose variety may please his
+palate. Nutritious roots are cultivated with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> great ease; and the sea
+yields abundance of shell and other fish, for the trifling trouble of
+catching it: the brooks also contain fish, and a species of crab. The
+opulent eat fowls and pigs roasted over hot stones in a hole in the
+ground, the flavour of which is very agreeable even to an European; and,
+by way of variety, they roast <i>dogs</i> which have been fed upon
+vegetables, and are considered great delicacies.</p>
+
+<p>Several families often live together in the same house, in the greatest
+concord. Their furniture consists simply of a few ingeniously-woven mats
+for sleeping on, and some vessels made of gourds and cocoa-nut shells.</p>
+
+<p>The disposition of the Tahaitians is gentle, benevolent, open, gay, and
+peaceable, although some of them show scars of wounds received in war,
+which prove that they are not deficient in courage. To hatred and
+revenge they are wholly strangers. Hardly and unjustly as Cook sometimes
+treated them, he was pardoned immediately that he required their
+assistance, and showed the slightest wish to pacify them. Individuals of
+his crew often ventured to pass the nights alone and unarmed upon the
+island:<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> they were every where received with the greatest hospitality,
+and overwhelmed with marks of friendship. The simple inhabitants, wholly
+devoid of envy, rejoiced in each other's good fortune, and when one
+received a present, all seemed equally gratified. Their feelings readily
+broke out either into smiles or tears: even men were often seen to weep;
+and their joys and sorrows were as fugitive as those of children. Nor
+are their minds more stable: notwithstanding the great curiosity with
+which they gazed at and required an explanation of every object in the
+ship, it was as impossible, says the elder Forster, to rivet their
+attention for any time, as to make quicksilver stand still.</p>
+
+<p>They seemed incapable of either mental or bodily effort, and their time
+was passed in indolence and enjoyment. They were, however, skilful in
+manufacturing a soft paper from the barks of trees; nets and lines from
+the fibres of the cocoa-nut; and hooks from muscle-shells; in weaving
+their rush mats, and especially in building canoes and war-boats. The
+latter, large enough to contain forty men and upwards, were made of
+planks laboriously split from the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> trunks of trees with sharp stones,
+for want of better implements, fastened together with cocoa threads, and
+well caulked. The value they set on our axes and nails may therefore be
+easily imagined.</p>
+
+<p>Like all islanders, they are expert seamen, but especially dexterous in
+swimming and diving. They fetch any thing with ease from the bottom of
+the sea, even at very considerable depths. The upsetting of a boat
+causes them no uneasiness; men and women swim round it till they succeed
+in righting it again; and then, baling out the water, continue their
+voyage with the utmost unconcern.</p>
+
+<p>These voyages, sometimes extending to considerable distances, have made
+the observation of the stars, their only guides, absolutely necessary to
+them. They have thus attained some astronomical knowledge.</p>
+
+<p>They distinguish the planets from the fixed stars, and call the former
+by particular names. They divide the year into thirteen months of
+twenty-nine days each, with the exception of one, which has less,
+apparently for the purpose of reconciling this lunar with a solar year.
+The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span> day and night are each divided into six parts of two hours each,
+which they measure exactly in the day by the position of the sun, and at
+night by the stars. Medical men have considered them to possess much
+skill in surgery, from the kindly healing of wounds which, by their
+scars, have evidently been severe.</p>
+
+<p>The Tahaitians are particularly distinguished by their superior
+civilization from all other savages, among whom indeed they scarcely
+deserve to be ranked. Their language sounds agreeably, and is not
+difficult to learn. The vowels occur much more frequently than the
+consonants, our c, g, k, s, and p, being entirely wanting. Cook and his
+companions made considerable progress in it; and one of them says&mdash;"It
+is rich in figurative modes of expression; and I am convinced that a
+nearer acquaintance with it would place it on a level with the most
+distinguished for boldness and power of imagery."</p>
+
+<p>By means of this knowledge of their language, however imperfect, many
+details concerning the religion of the Tahaitians were gained. The elder
+Forster enters rather at large into the subject.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span></p><p>They believed in one supreme God, <i>Athua-rahai</i>, creator and governor
+of the world, and of all other gods. They gave him a consort, who
+however was not of the same nature, but of a material and very firm
+substance, and therefore called <i>O-te-Papa</i>, that is to say, <i>Rock</i>.
+From this pair proceeded a goddess of the moon, the gods of the stars,
+the winds, and the sea, and the protecting deities of the several
+islands. After the chief god had created the sun, he conveyed his
+consort, the mighty Rock, from the West to the East over the sea: in
+their progress, some portions of her substance separated from her, and
+formed the islands.</p>
+
+<p>Besides the gods of the second rank, they believed also in inferior
+deities, and in a wicked genius, who killed men suddenly at the
+requisition of the priests&mdash;an article of faith which this order
+doubtless found very convenient. They also supposed that a genius dwelt
+in every man, thinking and feeling in him, and separated himself from
+the body after death, but without removing from it; often inhabiting the
+wooden images which are erected in the burial-places,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span> but sometimes
+stealing at night into their habitations, and killing the sleepers,
+whose hearts and entrails he devoured. This belief in ghosts is perhaps
+not more universal in Tahaiti than among civilized nations.</p>
+
+<p>According to another of Cook's companions, the supreme God united
+departed souls with his own existence, which was signified by the
+phrase, "He eats them." This was purification, after which the soul, or
+the genius, reached the abode of eternal happiness. If a man, for some
+months before his death, had kept himself apart from women, he did not
+require this purification, but went direct to Heaven. The pride of the
+Yeris prompted them to believe in a Heaven peculiar to themselves, where
+they should associate only with their equals in birth.</p>
+
+<p>The Tahaitians of rank had each a <i>Marai</i> sacred to themselves, and
+which served for their religious assemblies. The greatest and most
+solemn of these meetings were held at the Marai of the Kings. Here the
+priests harangued the people; and here was performed the rite which
+stained the otherwise amiable character of these islanders&mdash;the offering
+of human sacrifices!<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span> Cook was once present at one of these detestable
+oblations, and describes it circumstantially. Its object was to
+propitiate the assistance of the Gods, in a war about to be undertaken.</p>
+
+<p>The victim was always of the lower class. He was first killed, and the
+ceremonies were afterwards performed by the priests, and many prayers
+recited, in presence of the King and people. One of the formalities was
+the presentation of the left eye to the King, which however he did not
+receive. From this, Cook infers that the Tahaitians had at some period
+been eaters of human flesh, and that this morsel was offered to the King
+as a delicacy. If this conjecture be well-founded, which I think it is
+not, so horrible an appetite must have long since disappeared, as not a
+trace of it now remains. It is besides altogether contrary to the
+character and manners of the people. So, indeed, is the oblation of
+human victims; but this horrible rite had certainly been introduced by
+the priests, for the purpose of attracting towards their office an
+increased degree of veneration and awe. The burial of the dead was
+accompanied by many religious ceremonies, but with the birth of a
+child,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span> or the celebration of marriage, their religion was no way
+concerned.</p>
+
+<p>If a woman bore her lover a child, which he acknowledged to be his, the
+marriage was concluded without further ceremony, but was easily
+dissolved and a new connexion formed.</p>
+
+<p>A married man would sometimes entertain a concubine, but never had more
+than one wife. The kings only formed an exception to this rule. The last
+monarch married at the same time the four daughters of a neighbouring
+king, and during our visit they were all living and respected as his
+widows. One only of them had brought him children; and when during the
+latter years of his government he became a convert to the Christian
+religion, this one only passed for his lawful consort.</p>
+
+<p>In both peninsulas of Tahaiti the form of government was monarchical,
+and each had its own king, assisted by a council of Yeris, whom he
+consulted on all important occasions. These were held in great
+veneration among the people. No one, not even a female or a Yeri of the
+highest rank, might appear before them without uncovering the upper part
+of the body&mdash;a token<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> of respect which was usually paid only to the Gods
+in prayer or in passing a Marai. Before the princesses, the female sex
+only uncovered themselves. All his subjects were much attached to the
+sovereign, who reigned under a most singular law of succession.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as a son was born to him, the sovereignty passed from the king
+to the infant, in whose name, and during whose minority only, the father
+continued to exercise the Regency.</p>
+
+<p>The several districts were governed by deputies chosen from the class of
+Yeris, who were also the sole administrators of justice; which amongst
+this well-disposed people was generally very mild. The punishments in a
+great measure depend on the injured party, and consist chiefly in
+stripes. A native assured me that thieves are sometimes hung on a tree;
+but they more frequently escape with a few strokes, or sometimes
+altogether with impunity.</p>
+
+<p>The two kingdoms of Tahaiti were often in a state of mutual warfare,
+though they sometimes fought as allies against a common enemy. Cook and
+his companions saw the preparations for a war with the neighbouring
+island of Eimeo, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> were present at a review of his naval force by the
+King O Tu. From the number of warriors who manned this fleet, the elder
+Forster estimated the entire population at not less than a hundred and
+thirty thousand souls. According to his opinion, Tahaiti was capable of
+containing and supporting an infinitely greater number of inhabitants,
+and he therefore conjectured that in a short time it would be found
+greatly increased. Experience has unfortunately proved this inference to
+be erroneous, as will appear in the sequel.</p>
+
+<p>Notwithstanding their usually gentle character, they treated their
+prisoners of war with barbarity, but in their defence may be urged the
+well-known fact, that in the heat of battle an unwonted rage will
+sometimes take possession of the best disposed minds, even amongst
+civilized nations; and it was only while this unnatural excitement
+lasted that the conduct of the Tahaitians laid them open to the
+imputation of cruelty.</p>
+
+<p>Both sexes and all ranks were given to stealing; and so dexterous were
+they in plundering the Europeans, that notwithstanding the utmost<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span>
+vigilance and precaution, few days passed without something being
+stolen. The young, beautiful, and noble Marorai stole, as the younger
+Forster relates, a pair of sheets from the cabin of an officer, where
+she had remained unnoticed during the general confusion occasioned by
+the ship running aground. Even the princesses appropriated trifles
+whenever they had an opportunity. Our experience, however, proves that
+the lessons they have received from their Christian pastors on the
+disgracefulness of theft have had a practically good effect.</p>
+
+<p>Neither can I deny that the morals of the Tahaitians were very
+exceptionable in another point, in which also the influence of the
+Missionaries has been beneficially exerted. If the modesty which
+conceals the mysteries of love among civilized nations be the offspring
+only of their intellectual culture, it is not surprising that a wholly
+uninstructed people should be insensible to such a feeling, and in its
+unconsciousness should even have established public solemnities which
+would strike us as excessively indelicate.</p>
+
+<p>The coarse hospitality of the Tahaitians went<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> so far as to present to a
+welcome guest, a sister, a daughter, or even a wife; and they have been
+known to sell them for pearls, pieces of glass, or implements of iron.
+The women who distributed their favours indiscriminately, were almost
+always of the lowest class; but a most licentious association called
+Ehrioi, including both sexes, existed among the higher. Renouncing
+matrimony, and the hopes of progeny, its members rambled about the
+island leading the most dissolute lives; and if a child was born among
+them, the laws of the society compelled its murder, or the expulsion of
+the mother. The men were all warriors, and stood in high estimation
+among the people. The Ehrioi themselves were proud of the title, and
+even the King O Tu belonged to this profligate institution, to which,
+fortunately, the Missionaries have put an end.</p>
+
+<p>Where such manners prevailed, and woman was regarded merely as an object
+of pleasure, she could not stand in very high estimation; and love, in
+its best sense, remained wholly unknown among them. Hence the women of
+Tahaiti, although not so much secluded as among many other nations, were
+not permitted<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span> to eat with the men, and when the King and the Royal
+Family visited Cook, on board his ship, he was obliged to entertain even
+the princesses in a separate cabin.</p>
+
+<p>The fidelity of a wife among the Tahaitians required that she should not
+favour any man without the knowledge and consent of her husband; and a
+beating was the punishment generally incurred by a violation of this
+duty.</p>
+
+<p>Among the failings of the Tahaitians, their love of the intoxicating
+liquor which they prepared from the much cultivated Ava root, must not
+be omitted. Nor have the Missionaries been wholly unsuccessful in this
+respect. The drink is no longer allowed to be prepared, nor even the
+root to be cultivated; but unfortunately, its place has been partly
+supplied by the introduction of our wine and brandy; we, however, never
+saw a drunken person.</p>
+
+<p>Having now noticed all that was reprehensible in the otherwise amiable
+character of the Ante-christian Tahaitian, I hope the reader, in
+consideration of his many good qualities, will forgive his faults, and,
+in a friendly disposition towards him, cast a glance upon his innocent<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span>
+amusements, which were chiefly derived from music, dancing, mock-fights,
+and theatrical representations.</p>
+
+<p>Their musical instruments were very simple, and of two kinds only: the
+one, a sort of flute, producing four notes, and blown with the nostrils;
+the other, a drum, made of the hollow trunk of a tree; but the
+accompanying songs, usually extempore poems, were pretty, and showed the
+delicacy of their ear. The girls excelled in the dance; the married
+women were forbidden to take part in it, and the men never did. The
+dancers executed a species of ballet, and, according to the judgment of
+travellers, they might with little trouble become capable of performing
+on our theatres. The English dances they soon learnt, and in the
+well-known hornpipe, especially, displayed much grace.</p>
+
+<p>The mock-fights were of course in imitation of their serious warfare,
+and they parried with admirable dexterity the blow of a club or thrust
+of a lance, by which otherwise they must have been severely wounded. The
+dramatic pieces were performed by both sexes, and sometimes by persons
+of the highest quality. They were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span> of a mixed character, serious, and
+comic, but for want of a thorough acquaintance with the language, they
+have been very imperfectly described to us. Thus, oppressed by no care,
+burdened by no toil, tormented by no passion, seldom visited by
+sickness, their wants easily satisfied, and their pleasures often
+recurring, the Tahaitians passed a life of enjoyment under the
+magnificent sky of the tropics, and amid scenes worthy of Paradise.</p>
+
+<p>On the 12th of March, a beautiful bright morning, we had the pleasure to
+perceive Tahaiti before us, like a light cloud in the clear horizon. All
+that we had read of its loveliness now rose to our remembrance,
+heightened by the vivid colouring of the imagination; but seventy miles
+were yet to be traversed ere we could tread the land of expectation, and
+a very slow progress, occasioned by a flagging wind, tried our patience.
+We continued, however, to advance, and the light cloud became larger,
+and denser, and higher, soon assuming the appearance of three separate
+hills belonging to different islands; the highest point, eight thousand
+feet above the level of the sea, is the summit of a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> mountain,
+distinguished from the others by its conical form.</p>
+
+<p>We next recognized the large rugged masses of rock of the interior,
+which have a most romantic appearance. The country gradually unfolded
+all its charms; the luxuriant growth of the trees, even to the
+mountains' tops, reminded us of the scenery of Brazil, and the
+picturesque valleys, with their thickets of bread-fruit, orange, and
+cocoa-trees, their cultivated fields, and plantations of bananas, became
+at length distinctly visible.</p>
+
+<p>It was not till the 14th that we reached the Cape, called by Cook Cape
+Venus, because he there observed the transit of this planet over the
+sun; and from its beauty, it deserves to be named after the charming
+goddess herself. It is a low narrow tongue of land, running out
+northward from the island, thickly shadowed by cocoa-trees, and forming,
+by its curve, the harbour of Matarai, not a very secure one, but
+generally preferred by sailors on account of the celebrity bestowed on
+it by Cook.</p>
+
+<p>When we were still a few miles distant from Cape Venus, we fired a gun
+to draw attention<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> to the flag hoisted at the fore-mast, as a signal for
+a pilot. We soon saw a European boat steering towards us; it brought us
+a pilot, who, to our great surprise, addressed us in the Russian
+language, having recognized our flag as belonging to that nation: he was
+an Englishman of the name of Williams, who had first been a sailor on
+board a merchant ship, afterwards entered the service of the Russian
+American Company on the north-west coast of America, and was at length
+settled for life in Tahaiti. His wife was a native of the island; he was
+the father of a family, and carried on the occupation of a pilot in the
+Bay of Matarai. Wanderers of this kind often settle in the islands of
+the South Sea; but while they bring with them many vices peculiar to the
+lower classes in civilized life, are generally too ignorant and rough to
+produce any favourable influence on the natives. They are not all liable
+to this censure; and of about twenty English and Americans whom I found
+so naturalized in Tahaiti, some assuredly do not deserve it.</p>
+
+<p>Having a pilot on board, we steered direct for the extreme point of Cape
+Venus, where<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> floated the national standard of Tahaiti. This flag
+displays a white star in a field of red, and, like many of the present
+arrangements, owes its origin to the Missionaries, who do not indeed
+bear the title of Kings of the island, but exercise an unlimited
+influence over the minds of the natives. We passed safely by the
+shallows lying before the Matawai Bay, (upon which Captain Wallis
+grounded, and which he called, after his ship, the Dolphin,) round the
+headland, to the western side, and at last anchored opposite the village
+of Matawai, at a distance of two hundred fathoms from the shore, in a
+black clay bottom of fifteen fathoms depth.</p>
+
+<p>Our frigate, as it entered the Bay, attracted to the beach a crowd of
+curious gazers, who greeted our arrival with a shout of joy. Numerous
+boats laden with all kinds of fruits, provisions, and other articles of
+merchandize, immediately put off from the shore, and we were soon
+surrounded by gay and noisy Tahaitians. As soon as the sails were taken
+in, I gave them permission to come on board, of which they eagerly
+availed themselves. With their wares on their backs, they climbed
+merrily up<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span> the sides of the ship, and the deck was soon transformed
+into a busy market, where all was frolic and fun; the goods were offered
+with a jest, and the bargains concluded with laughter. In a short time
+each Tahaitian had selected a Russian associate, to whom, with a
+fraternal embrace, he tendered his wish to exchange names,&mdash;a ceremony
+which implied a pledge to surrender to the new friend whatever he might
+wish for.</p>
+
+<p>It is probable that these sudden attachments were not quite
+disinterested; a view of procuring a better barter for their goods might
+have had some effect in producing the zeal with which they were struck
+up; but they certainly had every appearance of sincerity and cordiality,
+and in less than an hour these friendly allies were seen walking in
+couples, arm in arm, about the deck, as though they had been acquainted
+for years.</p>
+
+<p>Our clothing appeared to be prized by the Tahaitians above every thing
+we offered them, and the possession of any article of this kind set them
+leaping, as if out of their wits, for joy. On this day we saw no
+females; and when we were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span> afterwards occasionally visited by the women,
+they always behaved with the greatest propriety.</p>
+
+<p>When the sun declined, our new acquaintances left us to return to their
+homes, satisfied with their bargains, and delighted with the presents
+they had received, and without having stolen any thing, although above a
+hundred of them had been on board at once.</p>
+
+<p>I had sent a message to the Missionary Wilson, by an officer who now
+returned, bringing for answer an assurance that the Missionary would
+with pleasure do all in his power to assist us in procuring our
+supplies; a promise he faithfully kept.</p>
+
+<p>On the following morning we were greeted by the sun from a cloudless
+sky, with a most superb illumination of the country opposite to his
+rising. His rays glittering on the mountain-tops before they reached our
+horizon, gradually enlivened the variegated green that clothed their
+sides down to the vales, till the King of Day burst upon our sight in
+all his splendour, arraying the luxuriant landscape of the shore in
+still more enchanting beauty. Among the thickets of fruit-trees were
+seen the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> dwellings of the happy inhabitants of this great
+pleasure-ground, built of bamboos, and covered with large leaves,
+standing each in its little garden; but, to our great astonishment, the
+stillness of death reigned among them; and even when the sun stood high
+in the heavens, no one was to be seen.</p>
+
+<p>The warm friendships formed but yesterday seemed already to have cooled;
+we were quite forgotten. At length we obtained from the boat, sent off
+to us at break of day with provisions, an explanation of this enigma.
+The inhabitants of Tahaiti were celebrating the Sunday, on which account
+they did not leave their houses, where they lay on their bellies reading
+the Bible and howling aloud; laying aside every species of occupation,
+they devoted, as they said, the whole day to prayer. According to our
+reckoning, the day was Saturday. This difference proceeded from the
+first Missionaries having reached Tahaiti from the west by the way of
+New Holland, while we had come eastward by Cape Horn.</p>
+
+<p>I resolved to go ashore and pay a visit to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span> Mr. Wilson, that I might
+procure, through his means, a convenient place for our astronomical
+observations. We landed at the point of the Cape, because the shade of a
+thick palm grove there offered us immediate protection. No one received
+us on the strand; no human being, not even a dog, was visible. The very
+birds seemed here to celebrate the Sunday by silence, unless, indeed, it
+was somewhat too hot for singing. A little brook, meandering among
+shrubs and flowers, alone took the liberty of mingling its murmurs with
+the devotions of the Tahaitians. I sauntered along a narrow trodden path
+under the shade of palms, bananas, orange, and lemon-trees, inhaling
+their fragrance, and delighting in the luxuriance of nature. Though
+beautiful as this country is, it does not equal Brazil in the variety of
+its productions, and in the numbers of its humming-birds and
+butterflies. The loud prayer of the Tahaitian Christians reached my
+ears, as I approached their habitations. All the doors were closed, and
+not even the children allowed to enjoy the beauty of the morning.</p>
+
+<p>The small but pleasant house of the Missionary,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> built after the
+European fashion, stands in the midst of a kitchen-garden richly
+provided with all kinds of European vegetables.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Wilson gave me a cordial welcome to his neat and simple dwelling,
+and presented to me his wife, an Englishwoman, and two children, besides
+two Englishmen, whom he named as Messrs. Bennet and Tyrman. They
+belonged to the London Missionary Society, and had left England three
+years before to visit the Missionary Settlements in the South Sea.</p>
+
+<p>The chief Missionary, to whom the others are subordinate, is named Nott,
+and lives in the capital where the King resides. He is now far advanced
+in life. He has made himself master of the Tahaitian language, and was
+the first who ever wrote it. He has translated the Bible, a Prayer Book,
+and some Hymns; and has printed a Grammar of the language, under the
+title of, "A Grammar of the Tahaitian Dialect of the Polynesian
+Language. Tahaiti: printed at the Mission Press, Burder's Point, 1823."</p>
+
+<p>He also first instructed the Tahaitians in reading and writing, which
+acquirements are now tolerably common among them. I am sorry not to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span>
+have known Mr. Nott better, and therefore not to have it in my power to
+judge of the man as well as the Missionary. His character stands very
+high. Wilson, also an old man, has now lived twenty years in Tahaiti; he
+was originally a common sailor, but has zealously devoted himself to
+theology, and is honest and good-natured. Including Nott and Wilson,
+there are six Missionaries in Tahaiti alone, and only four among all the
+other Society Islands. Each Missionary possesses a piece of land,
+cultivated by the natives, which produces him in superfluity all that he
+requires, and he also receives an annual allowance of fifty pounds from
+the London Missionary Society. This Society has also sent Missionaries
+to Tongatabu, one of the Friendly Islands, and to Nukashiva, lately made
+known to us by Krusenstern.</p>
+
+<p>Besides these English Missionaries, some native Tahaitians, after
+receiving a suitable education, are sent to spread Christianity among
+the islands of the dangerous Archipelago. In Russia, a careful education
+and diligent study at schools and universities is necessary to qualify
+any one to be a teacher of religion. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span> London Missionary Society is
+more easily satisfied; a half savage, confused by the dogmas of an
+uneducated sailor, is, according to them, perfectly fitted for the
+sacred office.</p>
+
+<p>It was now church-time, and Wilson requested me to be present at the
+service,&mdash;an invitation which I accepted with pleasure. A broad straight
+path, planted with the cocoa and lofty bread-fruit tree, leads from his
+house, about a ten minutes' walk, to the place of worship. The
+church-yard, with its black wooden crosses, impresses the mind with a
+feeling of solemnity: the church itself is a handsome building, about
+twenty fathoms long and ten broad, constructed of light wood-work
+adapted to the climate, and whitened on the outside, which gives it a
+pretty effect among the green shades that surround it. The numerous
+large windows remain unglazed, because a free admission of the air is
+here desirable in all seasons; the roof, made of ingeniously plaited
+reeds, and covered with immense leaves, is a sufficient defence against
+the heaviest rain; there is neither steeple nor clock. The interior of
+the church is one large hall, the walls of which are neatly kept; it is
+filled with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span> a number of benches, so placed, in long rows, that the
+occupants can have a convenient view of the pulpit in the centre. When
+we entered, the church was full even to crowding, the men seated on one
+side, and the women on the other; they almost all had psalm-books lying
+before them; the most profound stillness reigned in the assembly. Near
+the pulpit, which Wilson mounted, was placed a bench for Messrs. Bennet
+and Tyrman, on which I also took my seat.</p>
+
+<p>Notwithstanding the seriousness and devotion apparent among the
+Tahaitians, it is almost impossible for an European, seeing them for the
+first time in their Sunday attire, to refrain from laughter. The high
+value which they set on clothes of our manufacture has already been
+remarked; they are more proud of possessing them than are our ladies of
+diamonds and Persian shawls, or our gentlemen of stars and orders. As
+they know nothing of our fashions, they pay no sort of attention to the
+cut, and even age and wear do not much diminish their estimation of
+their attire; a ripped-out seam, or a hole, is no drawback in the
+elegance of the article. These clothes, which are brought to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> Tahaiti by
+merchant-ships, are purchased at a rag-market, and sold here at an
+enormous profit. The Tahaitian therefore, finding a complete suit of
+clothes very expensive, contents himself with a single garment; whoever
+can obtain an English military coat, or even a plain one, goes about
+with the rest of his body naked, except the universally-worn girdle; the
+happy owner of a waistcoat or a pair of trowsers, thinks his wardrobe
+amply furnished. Some have nothing more than a shirt, and others, as
+much oppressed by the heat under a heavy cloth mantle as they would be
+in a Russian bath, are far too vain of their finery to lay it aside.
+Shoes, boots, or stockings, are rarely met with, and the coats, mostly
+too tight and too short, make the oddest appearance imaginable; many of
+their wearers can scarcely move their arms, and are forced to stretch
+them out like the sails of a windmill, while their elbows, curious to
+see the world, peep through slits in the seams. Let any one imagine such
+an assembly, perfectly satisfied of the propriety of their costume, and
+wearing, to complete the comic effect, a most ultra-serious expression
+of countenance, and he<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span> will easily believe that it was impossible for
+me to be very devout in their presence. The attire of the females,
+though not quite so absurd, was by no means picturesque; some wore
+white, or striped men's shirts, which did not conceal their knees, and
+others were wrapped in sheets. Their hair was cut quite close to the
+roots, according to a fashion introduced by the Missionaries, and their
+heads covered by little European chip hats of a most tasteless form, and
+decorated with ribbons and flowers, made in Tahaiti. But the most
+valuable article of dress was a coloured gown, an indubitable sign of
+the possessor's opulence, and the object of her unbounded vanity.</p>
+
+<p>When Wilson first mounted the pulpit, he bent his head forward, and
+concealing his face with an open Bible, prayed in silence; the whole
+congregation immediately imitated him, using their Psalm-books instead
+of Bibles. After this, the appointed psalm was sung to a most
+incongruous tune, every voice being exerted to its utmost pitch, in
+absolute defiance of harmony. Wilson then read some chapters from the
+Bible, the congregation kneeling twice during the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span>intervals; the
+greater part of them appeared very attentive, and the most decorous
+silence reigned, which was, however, occasionally interrupted by the
+chattering and tittering of some young girls seated behind me. I
+observed that some threatening looks directed towards them by Messrs.
+Bennet and Tyrman, seemed to silence them for a moment, but their
+youthful spirits soon overcoming their fears, the whispering and
+giggling recommenced, and glances were cast at the white stranger, which
+seemed to intimate no unwillingness to commence a closer acquaintance.
+After the conclusion of the sermon, another psalm was sung, and the
+service concluded. The display of costume, as the congregation strolled
+homewards in groups, with the greatest self-complacency, through the
+beautiful broad avenue, their psalm-books under their arms, was still
+more strikingly ludicrous than in church. I had by this time, however,
+lost all inclination to laugh.</p>
+
+<p>I had assisted at a great religious assembly of the new, devoted, so
+called Christian Tahaitians; and the comparison naturally arising in my
+mind, between what I had seen and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> descriptions of the early
+travellers, had introduced reflections which became less and less
+agreeable, in proportion as I acquired a greater insight into the recent
+history of the island.</p>
+
+<p>After many fruitless efforts, some English Missionaries succeeded at
+length, in the year 1797, in introducing what they called Christianity
+into Tahaiti, and even in gaining over to their doctrine the King Tajo,
+who then governed the whole island in peace and tranquillity. This
+conversion was a spark thrown into a powder magazine, and was followed
+by a fearful explosion. The Marais were suddenly destroyed by order of
+the King&mdash;every memorial of the former worship defaced&mdash;the new religion
+forcibly established, and whoever would not adopt it, put to death. With
+the zeal for making proselytes, the rage of tigers took possession of a
+people once so gentle. Streams of blood flowed&mdash;whole races were
+exterminated; many resolutely met the death they preferred to the
+renunciation of their ancient faith. Some few escaped by flight to the
+recesses of the lofty mountains, where they still live in seclusion,
+faithful to the gods of their ancestors. Schiller's<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span>
+exclamation&mdash;"<i>Furchtbar ist der Mensch in seinem wahn</i>,"<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> was
+dreadfully confirmed.</p>
+
+<p>Ambition associated itself, as usual, to fanaticism. King Tajo, not
+content with seeing in the remains of his people none but professors of
+the new faith, resolved on making conquests that he might force it on
+the other Society Islands. He had already succeeded with most of them,
+when a young warrior, Pomareh, King of the little island of Tabua, took
+the field against him. What he wanted in numbers was supplied by his
+unexampled valour, and his superiority in the art of war.</p>
+
+<p>He subdued one island after another, and at last Tahaiti itself, and
+having captured its King, offered the zealot murderer of his innocent
+subjects as a sacrifice to their manes. In the end, he subjected to his
+sceptre all the islands which had hitherto remained independent, and as
+sovereign of the whole Archipelago, took up his residence in Tahaiti. He
+left to the conquered Kings the government of their islands, requiring
+from them a yearly tribute in pigs and fruits; and to consolidate<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span> his
+dominion by family connexion, he married a daughter of the most powerful
+of these royal vassals, her three sisters, according to an ancient
+custom, becoming at the same time his wives.</p>
+
+<p>Peace was thus restored to Tahaiti and the whole Archipelago. Pomareh
+was a wise and mild ruler. He left his subjects undisturbed in their new
+religion, although he did not profess it himself. The Missionaries, now
+limited to their powers of persuasion, found means to retain their
+disciples in their adopted faith, so that the refugees of the mountains
+preferred remaining in their retreats, to finding themselves objects of
+hatred and contempt amongst their old friends and relations. At length
+Pomareh himself, with his whole family, yielded to the arguments of the
+Missionary Nott, allowed himself to be baptized, and died as a
+Christian, in the prime of life, in consequence of an immoderate
+indulgence in the spirituous liquors which he had obtained from the
+ships of his new brethren.</p>
+
+<p>An unconquerable passion for ardent spirits had acquired an entire
+dominion over him, although he was so well aware of their deleterious<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span>
+effects, as to have often exclaimed, when under the influence of
+intoxication, "O King, to-day could thy fat swine govern better than
+thou canst!" This weakness was, however, so much over-balanced by his
+many good qualities, his well-tried valour, his inflexible justice, his
+constant mildness and generosity, that he possessed to the last the
+universal esteem and love of his subjects, by whom his loss was still
+deplored when we arrived at Tahaiti, almost two years after his death,
+although he had reigned as an unlimited monarch, and they now possessed
+a constitution resembling, or rather aping, that of England. This had
+been introduced by the influence of the Missionaries, whose power over
+the minds of the Tahaitians is unbounded; they had persuaded the people
+to adopt it during the minority of Pomareh's son, a child of four years
+old at the period of our visit; but from the general regret with which
+the days of the absolute King were remembered, it did not appear to have
+given much satisfaction.</p>
+
+<p>According to this Constitution, Tahaiti is divided into nineteen
+districts, and the neighbouring<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> island of Eimeo, having no especial
+viceroy, into eight. Every district has its governor and its judge,
+whose business is to settle disputes and maintain order. The first is
+appointed by the Parliament, and the latter elected by the people. These
+nominations are for one year only&mdash;but may be renewed at the expiration
+of the term. Important affairs are submitted to the Parliament, which,
+consisting of deputies from all the provinces, possesses the
+legislative, as the King does the executive power.</p>
+
+<p>The Tahaitians, accustomed to a blind reverence for the Missionaries,
+consult them in all their undertakings, and by means of the Constitution
+have so confirmed their power, both as priests and rulers, that it would
+be difficult for governor, judge, or member of parliament, to retain
+their offices after having incurred their displeasure. They have shown
+their artful policy in the choice of a guardian for the young King. It
+has fallen on the tributary King of the island of Balabola,
+distinguished by his giant height of seven feet, and by his enormous
+corpulence, which almost prevents his moving, but by no mental
+qualification.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span></p><p>This mountain of flesh, that at a distance might rather be taken for
+some unknown monster than for a man, naturally finds it more convenient
+to his indolence to be merely the mouthpiece of the Missionaries, and
+that their dominion may also be secured for the future, Mr. Nott has the
+sole charge of the young monarch's education, and will not fail to bring
+him up in the habit of implicit obedience.</p>
+
+<p>The actual document securing the Constitution had not yet appeared; the
+Missionaries were still employed on it, well convinced, that whatever
+they should insert would be received without opposition. When complete,
+it will probably issue in due form from their Printing-Office, and will
+be interesting, if some future traveller should bring us the
+translation.</p>
+
+<p>Firm as the foundation of the Missionaries' power appeared, one little
+cloud was visible in the political firmament. A son of the vanquished
+King Tajo yet existed, and was not entirely without adherents. If by any
+chance he should succeed in gaining possession of the throne, he might
+remember that these men had assisted in excluding him from it. For this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span>
+reason, they resolved to confirm the title of the young Pomareh, by a
+solemn coronation; and to strengthen his party, all the tributary
+princes of the whole Archipelago were invited to be present at the
+ceremony.</p>
+
+<p>The preparations for this solemnity had long been carrying on, and as it
+was now soon to take place, nearly all the kings, with numerous suites,
+had arrived in Tahaiti. Among them was the powerful ruler of Ulietea,
+the grandfather of the infant sovereign; he had brought with him several
+hundred warriors, many of them armed with muskets.</p>
+
+<p>We wished much to have been present at this first coronation of a King
+of the Society Islands; but as our time would not permit it, I obtained
+from Mr. Tyrman an account of the order and plan of the ceremony.</p>
+
+<p>The kings, princes, members of parliament, and other high officers, were
+to assemble at the residence of the Queen, and thence in a regular
+procession, arranged according to their several ranks and dignities, and
+headed by the young King and the Missionaries, to pass to an appointed
+open space, where a throne of stone had<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span> been erected, on which the
+little Pomareh was to be seated. The procession was then to form a
+circle round him, and Mr. Tyrman, after making a speech, was to set on
+the King's head a crown, resembling in shape that of England, in which
+country it had been made. A Bible was then to be placed in his hand,
+with the admonition, "According to this Law, thou shall govern thy
+people." Upon this, the train being marshalled as before, the King
+should descend from his throne, and proceed to the church, where, after
+the performance of divine service, he should be anointed. The ceremonies
+should then conclude with a grand banquet.</p>
+
+<p>It is remarkable that the Bible, and not the Act of the Constitution,
+was to be given to the King, as the rule of his government. Was not a
+sly mental reservation perhaps intended by this? If the Constitution
+should not have exactly the effect intended, and the Tahaitians,
+emboldened by it, should seek to withdraw themselves from their
+leading-strings, then might the pupil of Nott, bound to them by no oath,
+come forward to them boldly, and force them back under the yoke of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span>
+Missionaries; all the while conscientiously obeying the rule of conduct
+which had been delivered to him, according to the interpretation he had
+been taught to put on it.</p>
+
+<p>How this coronation turned out&mdash;whether the son of Tajo allowed it to
+pass quietly&mdash;whether he has met the fate of many an unfortunate
+European pretender, or survives to become the originator of a civil war,
+which may yet give another destiny to Tahaiti, remains to be learnt from
+the accounts of some future traveller.</p>
+
+<p>Religion and political institutions may raise a nation in a short period
+to a high point of civilization, and they may also serve, as in case of
+the Turks, to retain them in perpetual barbarism. How will these mighty
+powers operate on the Tahaitians? How can they, the qualifications of
+their authors considered!</p>
+
+<p>True, genuine Christianity, and a liberal government, might have soon
+given to this people, endowed by nature with the seeds of every social
+virtue, a rank among civilized nations. Under such a blessed influence,
+the arts and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> sciences would soon have taken root, the intellect of the
+people would have expanded, and a just estimation of all that is good,
+beautiful, and eternally true, would have refined their manners and
+ennobled their hearts. Europe would soon have admired, perhaps have
+envied Tahaiti: but the religion taught by the Missionaries is not true
+Christianity, though it may possibly comprehend some of its doctrines,
+but half understood even by the teachers themselves. That it was
+established by force, is of itself an evidence against its Christian
+principle. A religion which consists in the eternal repetition of
+prescribed prayers, which forbids every innocent pleasure, and cramps or
+annihilates every mental power, is a libel on the Divine Founder of
+Christianity, the benign Friend of human-kind. It is true, that the
+religion of the Missionaries has, with a great deal of evil, effected
+some good. It has abolished heathen superstitions, and an irrational
+worship, but it has introduced new errors in their stead. It has
+restrained the vices of theft and incontinence, but it has given birth
+to bigotry, hypocrisy, and a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span>hatred and contempt of all other modes of
+faith, which was once foreign to the open and benevolent character of
+the Tahaitian. It has put and end to avowed human sacrifices, but many
+more human beings have been actually sacrificed to it, than ever were to
+their heathen gods.</p>
+
+<p>The elder Forster estimated, as we have already seen, the population of
+Tahaiti at one hundred and thirty thousand souls. Allowing that he
+over-calculated it, by even as much as fifty thousand, still eighty
+thousand remained:&mdash;the present population amounts to only eight
+thousand; so that nine-tenths must have disappeared. The diseases
+introduced by the ardent spirits, the manufacture of Europe and America,
+may, indeed, have much increased the mortality, but they are also known
+in many islands in the South Seas, without having caused any perceptible
+diminution in the population. It is not known that plague of any kind
+has ever raged here: it was, therefore, the bloody persecution
+instigated by the Missionaries which performed the office of a
+desolating infection. I really believe<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span> that these pious people were
+themselves shocked at the consequences of their zeal; but they soon
+consoled themselves; and have ever since continued to watch with the
+most vigilant severity over the maintenance of every article of their
+faith. Hence, among the remains of these murdered people, their former
+admirable industry, and their joyous buoyancy of spirits, have been
+changed for continual praying, and meditating upon things which the
+teachers understand as little as the taught.</p>
+
+<p>The Tahaitians of the present day hardly know how to plait their mats,
+make their paper stuffs, or cultivate a few roots. They content
+themselves with the bread-fruit, which the soil yields spontaneously in
+quantities more than sufficient for their reduced population. Their
+navy, which excited the astonishment of Europeans, has entirely
+disappeared. They build no vessels but a few little paltry canoes, with
+which they fish off the neighbouring coral islands, and make their
+longest voyages in American and European boats which they have
+purchased. With the method of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span>producing those commodities of civilized
+nations which they prize so highly, they are still as much as ever
+unacquainted. They possess sheep, and excellent cotton; but no
+spinning-wheel, no loom, has yet been set in motion among them; they
+choose rather to buy their cloth and cotton of foreigners for real gold
+and pearls; one of our sailors sold an old shirt for five piastres.
+Horses and cattle have been brought to them, but the few that remain
+have fallen into the possession of strangers, and have become so scarce,
+that one hundred piastres was asked for an ox, that we wanted in
+provisioning the ship. The Queen alone possesses a pair of horses, but
+she never uses them. The island contains but one smith, though the
+assistance of the forge and bellows would be so useful in repairing the
+iron tools which have superseded those of stone formerly in use. It is
+extraordinary that even the foreigners established here carry on no kind
+of mechanical trade. Can it be that the Missionaries object to it? It is
+certain that they possess great influence even over the settlers. An
+American, however, was planning the introduction of a sugar
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span>manufactory, and promised himself great profit from it.</p>
+
+<p>By order of the Missionaries, the flute, which once awakened innocent
+pleasure, is heard no more. No music but that of the psalms is suffered
+in Tahaiti: dancing, mock-fights, and dramatic representations are no
+longer permitted. Every pleasure is punished as a sin, among a people
+whom Nature destined to the most cheerful enjoyment. One of our friends
+having begun to sing for joy over a present he had received, was
+immediately asked by his comrades, with great terror, what he thought
+would be the consequence, should the Missionaries hear of it.</p>
+
+<p>It is remarkable that the degenerate Tahaitians are no longer even in
+person such as they are described by the early travellers. Their
+religion appears to have had an effect inimical to their beauty. The
+large-grown Yeris, solely employed in praying, eating, and sleeping, are
+all, men and women, excessively fat even in early youth. The smaller
+common people, constrained to some degree of industry, look plump and
+well fed, but not so swollen as their superiors,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span> and more fine forms
+are therefore to be seen among them than among the Yeris: the latter
+also frequently suffer under a most disfiguring disease caused by want
+of exercise and excess of nourishment: the legs swell to such a degree
+from the knees downward, that the form of the calf and foot is entirely
+lost, and the thick cylinders which usurp the place of legs, and from
+under which the toes only project, resemble nothing but the legs of
+elephants; thence the name of elephantism has been bestowed on the
+complaint by Europeans. It does not appear to cause much pain.</p>
+
+<p>The men of both classes shave the beard, and both sexes cut their hair
+so close, that the skin can be seen under it; a fashion ugly enough for
+any face, but especially so with their brown complexions, as it gives
+them an ape-like appearance. As, however, a compliance with this custom,
+is a mark of Christianity, and the heathen fugitives to the mountains
+have retained their long hair, even the young females are proud of thus
+disfiguring themselves.</p>
+
+<p>All vanity is sin, and all care of the person is vanity. Hence the fat
+Yeri beauties no<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> longer shelter their skins from the burning rays of
+the sun, and are become as brown as the rest. All the graces have
+departed from them; their fascinating smiles have vanished; and the
+rancid cocoa-oil with which they smear themselves may be smelt at many
+paces distance. In short, either the picture drawn of them by the early
+travellers was a monstrous flattery, or they are altogether different
+from what they were. I saw but one handsome girl at Tahaiti; she was the
+sister of the little King, only fourteen years old, and already the
+bride of her uncle, the Prince of Ulietea. The men far surpass the women
+both in form and feature.</p>
+
+<p>The Missionaries have abolished the custom of tattooing, and so far at
+least spared the Tahaitians some useless torment. These marks are now
+only to be seen on people of the middle age and upwards&mdash;never on the
+young. The first voyagers who visited this island, describe the
+tattooing as representing half-moons, birds, and irregular or zig-zag
+lines; but on a better acquaintance with Europeans, the fashion changed,
+and drawings of our tools, animals, and even compasses and mathematical
+instruments,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> were executed with the greatest exactness on their bodies.
+Pantaloons being articles in particular request among them, he who could
+not obtain a pair, comforted himself by having the representation of
+them etched on his legs. Many of these are still to be seen.</p>
+
+<p>We much wished to have had an opportunity of comparing the <i>soi-disant</i>
+Christian Tahaitians, with the heathen inhabitants of the mountains; but
+it would have taken too much time to seek them out in their retreats,
+which they leave only at night for the purpose of robbing the dwellers
+in the valleys, among whom they dare not appear in the day.</p>
+
+<p>If the religion of the Missionaries has neither tended to enlighten the
+Tahaitians nor to render them happy, just as little can be expected from
+the Constitution founded upon it, which seems adapted only to draw yet
+tighter the bonds in which this amiable people are held by their zealous
+converters, and to retain them wholly under their authority.</p>
+
+<p>By the influence of Wilson, a small house situated on Cape Venus was
+cleared for our astronomical observations: we were told it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span> stood
+precisely on the same spot where Cook's Observatory had formerly been
+erected. As a particular favour from the Government, I was also
+accommodated with a royal pleasure-house in its neighbourhood for my
+private residence. This very large building, which resembled an ancient
+temple in appearance, had been a favourite abode of the deceased monarch
+Pomareh, and since his death had remained uninhabited, out of respect
+for his memory. A number of utensils which had belonged to him, and a
+canoe, on which he had obtained many splendid victories, were still
+preserved here as memorials of the beloved king. The house was wholly
+without walls&mdash;the roof of leaves resting on numerous pillars; a mode of
+construction extremely well adapted to this warm and dry climate. The
+environs were very beautiful: high trees covered with thickest foliage
+invited to repose under their shadows, and a brook clear as crystal
+offered an inviting bath. The air was filled with the perfume of a
+neighbouring orange-grove, which scattered its fruit upon the earth. The
+lemons and oranges, which we found delicious, the Tahaitians despised as
+too<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span> common. Since I could only afford to remain a very short time at
+Tahaiti, Dr. Eschscholz and myself immediately took possession of my new
+abode, and erected our little observatory. After a long, wearisome
+voyage, I cannot express the delight I experienced in reposing amidst
+such enchanting scenes of natural beauty. We passed a charming evening,
+and a most refreshing night under our roof of leaves.</p>
+
+<p>In the morning, as we were drinking our coffee and smoking our pipes,
+while laying the plan of our observations so as to employ our short time
+to the best advantage, a messenger arrived from the Queen requesting to
+speak with me.</p>
+
+<p>I desired he might be admitted, and a giant Yen strode proudly in,
+accompanied by our pilot as interpreter. His only garment, with the
+exception of the girdle always worn by the men, was an old worn-out
+sand-coloured coat, with great shining buttons, in the fashion of the
+last century, and so much too small for its present possessor, that he
+could not button it, while his naked arms stuck out more than a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span> quarter
+of a yard below the sleeves. His bald head was covered by a red
+night-cap, which, to show his knowledge of the customs of civilized
+nations, he raised a little on his entrance.</p>
+
+<p>He uttered, as he came towards me, the word Jorona (good day), stretched
+out his great hand to me, and then, without waiting for my invitation,
+seated himself on the ground close to my feet, with his legs crossed in
+the Turkish fashion. The Queen had sent him to inform me, that she was
+curious to see the Commander of a Russian frigate, and would gladly have
+entertained me at her court; but as she feared I would not absent myself
+so long from Matarai, she had resolved to pay me a visit accompanied by
+the whole Royal Family. The ambassador added, that these exalted
+personages, who had travelled by water, would soon arrive, and that he
+must hasten to receive them; then rising, he pressed my hand, repeated
+his jorona, touched his night-cap, and disappeared.</p>
+
+<p>I had scarcely time to prepare for the reception of my illustrious
+guests, when the concourse of people hastening to the shore announced
+their approach. A man soon appeared as <i>avant<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span> courier</i>, in the short,
+red uniform-jacket of an English drummer, an uncommonly showy,
+many-coloured girdle, and the rest of his body, according to custom,
+quite naked. His legs were adorned by a tattooed representation of
+pantaloons; and when he turned his back and stooped very little, he
+showed also a drawing of a large compass, with all the two-and-thirty
+points executed with striking exactness. In his hand he held a rusty
+broad-sword, and on his head was proudly displayed an old torn
+three-cornered hat, with a long red feather. Our interpreter described
+him as the royal Master of the Ceremonies; but it afterwards appeared,
+that though not apparently belonging to the Yens, but to the smaller
+race, he held several other offices in conjunction with this&mdash;those of
+cook and chamberlain, for example: his talent, however, seemed most to
+incline to that of court-fool or harlequin.</p>
+
+<p>In all his motions, gestures and grimaces, he displayed so singular a
+vivacity, that he might have been considered insane. Without the least
+ceremony, or paying the slightest attention to me, he took possession of
+my whole house. Several servants, in the livery of nature, followed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span> him
+with the various articles necessary to the convenience of the Royal
+visitors. He immediately ordered that the whole floor should be covered
+with matting, and had every thing placed as he thought proper, leaping
+about all the while with both feet in the air, as if his life depended
+on the velocity of his motions. No one of the servants pleased him; his
+tongue ran incessantly; and his sword was flourished about in all
+directions.</p>
+
+<p>His preparations were not yet complete, when we saw a long procession of
+Tahaitians approach, two and two, bearing on their shoulders various
+kinds of provisions fastened on bamboo poles. This set our caperer upon
+increased activity. Two or three springs having carried him out of the
+house, he commanded the bearers to set down their burdens, which were
+presents from the Queen to me, in a certain order, in front of my
+dwelling. Three large pigs formed the right flank; and opposite to them
+were piled potatoes, yams, sweet potatoes, and all kinds of delicious
+fruit. When the Master of the Ceremonies had arranged them all to his
+satisfaction, he turned, for the first time,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span> to me, and endeavoured,
+with many comical pantomimic gestures, to make me understand that all
+were mine. At length the Queen herself appeared, followed by a numerous
+train of attendants. She walked first, carrying the little King in her
+arms, and holding her daughter, the betrothed of the Prince of Ulietea,
+by the hand. After her came her three sisters, all like herself, large
+fat women, and then the whole crowd of the Court. The rear was brought
+up by a multitude of people of the lower class, bearing viands for the
+Royal entertainment, in utensils made of various kinds of gourds. Among
+the dainties was a live pig, which squeaking and grunting in
+anticipation of its fate, supplied to this orderly procession the
+absence of a musical band.</p>
+
+<p>The Queen and her three sisters were wrapped in sheets; and their straw
+hats still bore streamers of black crape, as signs of mourning for the
+late King. The little Pomareh, a pretty, lively boy, was dressed quite
+in the European fashion, in a jacket and trowsers of bombasin; he wore a
+round hat, but his feet, like those of all the other Tahaitians, were
+bare. They object that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span> any kind of shoe hinders their walking. The
+young bride, a handsome girl, as I have before said, was very lightly
+clad in a short striped shirt, without any covering on her head. The
+giant Yeris who formed the Court, mostly wore white shirts, and round
+straw hats with black ribbons.</p>
+
+<p>It was the first time, since the death of her consort, that the Queen
+had entered these precincts, and a shower of tears fell from her eyes at
+the remembrance of the past. The whole court, as in duty bound, was also
+immediately dissolved in grief; but this sorrowful mood did not last
+long; their faces gradually cleared up&mdash;the Queen dried her tears, and
+greeted me kindly. The Master of the Ceremonies then conducted the Royal
+Family to the best mats, on which they sat down in the Asiatic fashion.
+One of my chairs was placed opposite the Royal Family, and I was invited
+to take my seat. In the mean time, the Master of the Ceremonies had
+vanished to prepare the repast.</p>
+
+<p>When the Queen, after surveying me from head to foot, had communicated
+her remarks and opinions to the company, I requested the interpreter to
+thank her, in my name, for my<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span> friendly reception on the island&mdash;for the
+presents she had made me, and for the high honour conferred on me in
+this visit. She received my thanks very graciously, and ordered some
+questions to be put me, which I answered with all due respect. She
+inquired how old I was?&mdash;whether my voyage had been long?&mdash;whether I was
+a Christian?&mdash;and how often I prayed <i>daily</i>? This last question
+afforded me an opportunity, had I thought fit, to give her Majesty some
+new ideas on the subject of the Missionary religion; but I did not feel
+myself quite capable of entering into a theological dispute, and
+therefore merely replied, that Christianity taught us, that we should be
+judged according to our actions rather than the number of our prayers. I
+do not know how the interpreter rendered my answer, or whether the Queen
+considered me as a heretic, but this I conjectured, from her speaking no
+more on religious subjects, and asking me, in order to change the
+conversation, whether the earth were really round? I assured her Majesty
+that I could answer from my own experience, as I was now sailing round
+it for the third time. This<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span> appeared to excite some astonishment; but
+my assertion concerning its spherical form still gained but small
+credit.</p>
+
+<p>I then produced some presents for the Queen, her family, and their
+immediate attendants, which, though in themselves extremely trifling,
+were received with great pleasure, and produced a degree of hilarity
+little consistent with the symbols of mourning worn by the Royal party,
+or the feelings they had displayed on their first arrival.</p>
+
+<p>To the Queen I presented a piece of calico four or five yards long, a
+coloured silk handkerchief, a small looking-glass, a pair of scissors,
+and some glass beads; to the young Princess, a silk handkerchief, beads,
+and a looking-glass; to the sisters of the Queen, cotton handkerchiefs,
+glasses, and scissors; their attendants, among whom were four ladies,
+were content with knives.</p>
+
+<p>During this time the Master of the Ceremonies had killed the pig, and
+baked it in the earth in the Tahaitian manner. As soon as the Royal
+Family had resumed their seats he brought it in, and placed it before
+the Queen,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span> on a great banana-leaf, other servants spreading yams,
+potatoes, and bread-fruit upon the ground. My chair was brought and
+placed opposite to the Queen, who invited me, with much friendliness, to
+partake of the meal. I preferred, however, being an idle spectator, for
+it was still very early in the day, and I had no appetite. When all the
+provisions were brought in, the Master of the Ceremonies made a leap
+into the air, flourished his rusty broad-sword, and then repeated a loud
+prayer. All the company hung down their heads, and prayed with him in
+silence. The prayer being concluded, the Master of the Ceremonies seized
+the baked pig by the hind-legs and tore it in two; then, having carved
+the whole with his broad-sword, laid a tolerably large portion on leaves
+before each member of the Royal Family, who immediately attacked it with
+a good appetite, helping themselves with fingers and teeth, instead of
+knife and fork. During the repast, the suite ate nothing, but remained
+looking on, and I did not perceive that they were indemnified for their
+abstinence, even when the residue of the feast was carried out. When the
+repast<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span> was over, and a prayer said as before, the Royal personages
+washed their hands with water, and their mouths with cocoa-milk, and
+then lay down altogether to sleep; the attendants retiring. I offered to
+her Majesty the use of my bed, which she condescendingly accepted; and
+during the siesta, I returned to my plans for our astronomical
+observations. On awaking, the Queen expressed a wish to see my frigate;
+my time was not at my own disposal, but I entrusted to one of my
+officers the charge of doing the honours of the ship to our Royal
+guests, as well as circumstances would permit. On leaving me, the Queen
+pressed my hand in the most friendly manner, and repeated her jorona
+several times; her whole train followed her.</p>
+
+<p>On the strand, according to the account of my officer, the canoes lay in
+readiness for the excursion. The Queen, accompanied by her family and
+our officer, put off in her own European boat; the Master of the
+Ceremonies took his station in the fore-part of the boat, turning his
+compass to the company, and continued, during the passage, his
+ridiculous <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span>harlequinades with his limbs and broad-sword, as if he had
+been afflicted with Saint Vitus's dance. When they reached the frigate,
+the deck was already occupied by Tahaitians, carrying on their trading
+with so much eagerness and noise, that scarcely a word could be
+distinguished. The vessel was also surrounded by a crowd of canoes
+filled with all kinds of wares for barter; and so little attention was
+paid to the Royal Family, that it was with much difficulty our people
+could clear the way for their boat. Nor did the presence of these high
+personages attract much more notice when they had climbed the deck;
+their subjects continued to drive their bargains without interruption,
+and scarcely vouchsafed the slightest salutation. Very different would
+have been their conduct on the arrival of a Missionary. The Queen was
+probably hurt by this neglect, for she went directly into my cabin,
+followed by her family, and remained there till she quitted the ship.
+The construction of the vessel was not likely to excite her curiosity,
+as she was herself the owner of a well-built English merchant ship.</p>
+
+<p>The goods in the cabin, however, delighted<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span> the ladies, who admired and
+wanted every thing; nor was it easy to convince them, that each article
+they coveted was indispensable to our convenience.</p>
+
+<p>The officers exerted themselves to maintain the good-humour of their
+guests by trifling presents, and, amongst other things, gave them a
+piece of sham gold-lace, several yards in length, which was received
+with extraordinary eagerness. The Royal sisters divided it between them,
+and added it to the black crape trimming of their hats; and so great was
+the admiration excited by this novel article of finery, that the rage
+for gold-lace became an absolute fever among the more distinguished
+Tahaitian ladies. Vain now proved the severe lessons of the
+Missionaries, forbidding all adornment of the person. There was no end
+to petitions for lace, and the more our store of it diminished, the more
+highly did they value the smallest piece they could obtain. The
+tormented husbands came every day to the ship, willingly offering a fine
+fat pig and eight fowls for half an ell of the false lace, to satisfy
+the longings of their wives. They beset<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span> me incessantly in my dwelling
+on shore, for this new and invaluable appendage of luxury; and were
+astonished beyond measure, that I, the commander, should possess none of
+it. The ladies who finally were unsuccessful in procuring the means of
+imitating a fashion thus accidentally introduced by the Royal sisters,
+<i>tout comme chez-nous</i>, actually fell ill and gave themselves up to the
+boundless lamentations of despair.</p>
+
+<p>While the Royal Family remained below in the cabin, their attendants
+were engaged on deck in purchasing from our sailors all sorts of old
+clothes for a hundred times their value, in Spanish piastres. The
+Tahaitians have yet no notion of the value of money, which they get from
+the ships that touch at the island, and by their trade in cocoa-oil with
+New Holland.</p>
+
+<p>The Missionaries have done their utmost to draw money into the country,
+and for this purpose have fixed prices on every article of provision,
+under which no one dares to sell them to foreign ships. These prices
+are, however, so high that nothing but necessity would induce any one to
+pay them, so that the ships in general<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span> rather provide themselves with
+old clothes, utensils of various kinds, and toys, which enable them to
+make most advantageous barters, and frequently even to bring away money.
+The plan of the Missionaries, therefore, like many other financial
+regulations, has been found in operation to produce a result directly
+contrary to the effect intended.</p>
+
+<p>During the visit to my vessel, the young Princess had found an
+opportunity to bargain with a sailor for a sheet; having secured this
+treasure, she ran with it upon deck in the most extravagant joy, viewed
+it over and over with delight, and there formed it into a really very
+becoming drapery. She appeared quite conscious of her increased
+attractions in this attire, leaped about in the most sprightly manner,
+and called on all the persons of the Court to admire her. In short, a
+young European lady on first decorating herself with the most costly
+Persian shawl, would not have been half so happy as this young Princess
+dressed in the sailor's sheet.</p>
+
+<p>At four o'clock, the dinner was served to our guests and their suite,
+entirely in the Russian mode; except the etiquette of placing the Royal<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span>
+Family a little apart from the rest of the company. The infant King had
+long before begun to cry from weariness, and had been carried back into
+the boat, where he had quietly fallen asleep. A prayer was repeated
+before and after dinner. The visitors seemed to think our dishes very
+palatable, and even the Royal Family ate with good appetite, though they
+had so recently made a substantial meal. Their conduct was extremely
+decorous, and showed much aptitude in imitation. They made use of the
+knives, forks, and spoons as readily as if they had been always
+accustomed to them; and the wine, though by no means despised, was very
+moderately enjoyed.</p>
+
+<p>After dinner a general conversation took place, in which a man of
+seventy years of age distinguished himself by his animation and
+intelligence. He was the only individual present who had personally
+known Captain Cook. He asserted that he had been his particular friend,
+and for this reason still bore his name, which he pronounced quite
+correctly, although there is neither a C nor K in the Tahaitian
+alphabet. He boasted not a little of having accompanied<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span> Cook in his
+coasting voyages about the islands, and of having often slept in the
+same tent with him. He knew the names of all Cook's company, and could
+recollect the particular pursuits of each officer. To describe the
+manner in which Cook had observed the height of the sun, he asked for a
+sextant, placed himself in a stooping position, and looking fixedly upon
+an angle, often called with a loud voice, Stop!</p>
+
+<p>He could relate the Bible-history in short extracts, from the Creation
+to the birth of Christ; and in order to explain the doctrine of the
+Trinity, he held up three fingers, pressed them together, and looked
+towards the Heavens. The old Cook (as he called himself,) was not
+entirely ignorant of geography. He said he possessed a map presented to
+him by his friend;&mdash;that England was an island, and much smaller than
+Russia; and traced out, on a map of the World being opened before him,
+the way by which we had come to Tahaiti.</p>
+
+<p>At sunset our Royal visitants departed, highly gratified with their
+entertainment, and returned to the capital. This visit being over, I
+hoped to be at liberty to pursue my occupations in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span> peace, but in this I
+was disappointed. Though my habitation was surrounded by sentinels, I
+was continually disturbed by swarms of curious islanders, who,
+troublesome as they were, were yet so gentle and good-tempered that it
+was impossible to be angry with them. They were particularly pleased
+with Dr. Eschscholz's little museum, and took pains to collect from
+every corner of the island, butterflies, beetles, birds, and marine
+productions, by way of showing their sense of the kindness with which he
+exhibited his treasures, often receiving from him in return some
+trifling present, which they considered of great value. One of them was
+fairly overpowered with gratitude by the gift of an old coat. With much
+admiration of such profuse generosity, and many expressions of rapture,
+he at length succeeded in cramming his large body into the garment of
+the infinitely smaller and more slender philosopher, and strutted about
+with his back hunched up, and his arms sticking out, envied by all his
+acquaintances for the magnificence of his attire.</p>
+
+<p>Though the vice of theft has certainly greatly diminished among the
+Tahaitians, they cannot<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span> always refrain from endeavouring to appropriate
+the articles they prize so highly. For instance, I think if any one of
+the Tahaitian ladies had found an opportunity of stealing a bit of the
+mock gold lace, the temptation would have been too great to withstand.
+Every theft however is, on discovery, punished without distinction of
+persons, and the criminal, on conviction, is generally sentenced to work
+on the highway. A road has been made round the island, on which those
+who have committed great transgressions, are condemned to labour; but it
+is probable that neglect of prayer, or any trifling offence against the
+Missionaries, would also entail this punishment upon them.</p>
+
+<p>We had an opportunity of observing the severity with which theft is
+punished. A complaisant husband could not resist the entreaties of his
+wife, who longed for one of our sheets. One day, when the sailors were
+washing in the river, he took an opportunity, unperceived as he thought,
+to snatch up one of these coveted articles and run off with it. Some of
+his countrymen, who had watched him, directly brought him back, bound
+him to a tree, and informed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span> me and a Missionary of the circumstance. On
+reaching the spot, I already found the Judge of the district and the
+Missionaries Wilson and Tyrman standing beside the thief, who was still
+bound to the tree. Mr. Tyrman, who was especially bitter, could not
+refrain from abuse: he called the criminal a brute, who was not worthy
+to be treated as a human creature, and acted altogether as if the affair
+were his. This would have surprised me, as the judge of the district was
+present, and Mr. Tyrman had no official appointment on the island, but
+he was a member of the Missionary Society,&mdash;<i>et tout est dit</i>. I was now
+asked if I wished the offender to be whipped, as he had not the means of
+paying the forfeit of three pigs to the person robbed, which the law
+demands, in addition to the punishment of ignominious labour. I forgave
+him the equivalent for the pigs, and begged that he might be dismissed
+with a severe admonition upon the disgrace of theft, and an earnest
+warning for the future. This request, however, was not granted, and the
+unfortunate offender was taken away, still tied, to work on the highway:
+the Judge<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span> and Mr. Wilson concurred in assuring me that he was not a
+Tahaitian, but an inhabitant of another island, who had come hither with
+one of the tributary kings, and declared that a Tahaitian would not have
+stolen the sheet. The only article which we lost besides this, was an
+iron hoop from a barrel, and as the thief was not discovered, it
+remained undecided whether their assertion was well-grounded or not. At
+all events, it appears certain that thefts do not take place oftener
+than among civilized nations.</p>
+
+<p>With the chastity of the Tahaitian women, the case is similar; and it
+does not appear to me that the breaches of this virtue are more frequent
+on the whole than in Europe. It was with the utmost caution and secrecy,
+and in the most fearful anxiety lest their errors should be betrayed to
+the Missionaries, that the females complied with the desires of our
+sailors. An accidental occurrence proved that their terrors were not
+groundless. A married man who possessed a house of his own, was induced
+to barter, according to the custom of his ancestors, the favours of his
+wife for some pieces of iron: he<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span> had also assisted a young man in an
+intrigue with a woman whose husband was not so complaisant, by lending
+his house as a place of rendezvous. Suddenly the owner and his wife
+disappeared in the night, the house was found empty next morning, and we
+could never learn what had become of its proprietors. Have the
+Missionaries already introduced the <i>Oubliettes</i>?</p>
+
+<p>Having occasion one morning to visit Wilson on business, I found his
+door, which usually stood open, closed and fastened: I knocked several
+times; but the whole house seemed buried in the repose of death: at
+length, after loud and repeated strokes, the door was opened by Wilson,
+whose cheeks bedewed with tears made me apprehensive that some great
+calamity had befallen him; I was however soon satisfied that devotion
+alone had caused this emotion. In an ante-room I found four or five
+naked Tahaitians, of the highest rank, as Wilson told me, on their knees
+reading the Bible. Having apologized for what appeared to be an
+unseasonable intrusion, I was about to retire, but was invited by
+Wilson, in a friendly manner, into the inner apartment, where I found
+his whole<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span> family, with Messrs. Bennet and Tyrman, kneeling round a
+breakfast-table, on which coffee and various kinds of meat were
+arranged. Tyrman was praying aloud, the rest silently joining him. He
+thanked God for the progress the Missionaries had made in spreading
+Christianity. How willingly would I have concurred in his thanksgiving,
+had the religion they taught been true, genuine Christianity, propitious
+to human virtue and human happiness.</p>
+
+<p>The prayer lasted yet a quarter of an hour; on its conclusion, the
+company rose and breakfasted with a good appetite; but offered nothing
+to the distinguished personages in the other apartment, who were
+suffered to leave the house unnoticed.</p>
+
+<p>I found the bread-fruit, as baked in the ovens by the Europeans here,
+excellent. The natives retain their old custom of baking in the earth.</p>
+
+<p>During breakfast, Wilson related the difficulties he had encountered in
+the conversion of the Tahaitians. They would not allow that his faith
+was superior to their own; and when he appealed to the miracles which
+confirmed the truth of the Christian doctrine, they required<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span> that he
+also should restore sight to the blind and raise the dead to life; the
+confession of his inability was met with derision, and for many years he
+gained no disciples. How different, in all probability, would the effect
+have proved, had he, instead of the miraculous history of his religion,
+directed the attention of the susceptible Tahaitians to its pure
+morality, leading so naturally to the idea of a common Father, and a
+fellowship of charity. O, ye Missionaries, how much blood might ye not
+have spared!</p>
+
+<p>I received another visit from the Royal Family, accompanied this time by
+many of the Vice-Kings then in Tahaiti, with their consorts. Among them
+was the grandfather of the little monarch Pomareh the Second. After some
+preliminaries, my illustrious guests unanimously preferred a request in
+the most modest, yet pressing manner. They wished me to get a pair of
+boots made for the little King. His coronation, they said, would soon
+take place, and they did not think it decorous, on so solemn an
+occasion, for the Sovereign of all the Society Islands to sit barefooted
+on his throne.</p>
+
+<p>I immediately ordered my shoemaker to provide<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span> for the Royal necessity;
+the measure was taken, and my complaisance rewarded by the gratitude of
+the whole company. At this visit, also, the guests ate and slept. I took
+advantage of this opportunity to observe the method of preparing the
+pig, always the chief dish in their feasts. A sufficiently large round
+hole was dug in the earth, and filled with stones. A fire was then
+lighted in it, and kept burning till the stones were red-hot, when the
+ashes and cinders were taken out, and the stones covered with large
+banana-leaves, upon which the pig was laid, after being thoroughly
+cleaned, and stuffed with the glowing stones; more leaves were spread
+upon it, and covered with hot stones, and finally, the hole was filled
+up with earth. After a certain time it was taken out, and proved a more
+tender and delicate roast, than the best European cook could have
+produced. They dress their vegetables in the same manner, and the
+flavour is excellent; the bread-fruit, only, I preferred as baked in
+Wilson's European oven.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 750px;"><a href="images/image2.jpg">
+<img src="images/image2_th.jpg" width="750" height="464" alt="PLAN OF MATTAWAY BAY AND VILLAGE" title="Mattaway" /></a>
+<span class="caption">PLAN OF MATTAWAY BAY AND VILLAGE</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Matarai Bay is rich in finely flavoured fish, of various, sometimes
+extraordinary form, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span>beautiful colours. The Tahaitians eat them
+raw, or only steeped in sea-water. Their fishing-tackle consists of
+nothing more than bad angling lines and hooks; to make nets as their
+forefathers did, would trespass too much upon the time they are obliged
+to spend in prayer. Hence fish is so great a rarity to them, that their
+eager desire for it sometimes prompts them to belie their good
+character, of which we had an example. One of our large nets having
+brought up a multitude of fine fish, the temptation was too strong to be
+resisted, and our friends would have forcibly shared our acquisition
+with us, had not our severe reproof, and the accidental appearance of
+the judge of the district, restrained them. They then tried to obtain
+the fish by barter, and offered their most valuable tools for the
+smallest and worst of them; I gave them, however, so many, that for once
+their appetite was fully satisfied with a luxurious repast.</p>
+
+<p>I had heard much of an institution established by the Missionaries for
+the instruction of the people, and was desirous to learn what progress
+the Tahaitians had made in the rudiments<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span> of science. Being informed
+that the lessons commenced at sunrise, the first rays of that luminary
+found me one morning at the school-house, as I conceived the simple
+structure before me to be. Its walls were formed of bamboo canes,
+erected singly, at sufficient distances to admit the refreshing breeze
+from all sides, and supporting a good roof. The interior was one
+spacious quadrangular apartment, provided with benches, and raised seats
+for the teachers.</p>
+
+<p>I had not waited long before the pupils of both sexes entered. They were
+not lively children, nor youths, whom ardour for the acquisition of
+knowledge led to the seat of instruction, but adults and aged persons,
+who crept slowly in with downcast looks, and prayer-books under their
+arms. When they were all assembled and seated on the benches, a Psalm
+was sung; a Tahaitian then rose, placed himself on an elevated bench,
+and read a chapter from the Bible. After this they sang again, and then
+knelt with their backs to the reader, who, also kneeling, repeated with
+closed eyes a long prayer. At its conclusion, the orator resigned his
+place to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span> another Tahaitian, when the whole ceremony commenced anew;
+another Psalm, another chapter, and another prayer were sung and said;
+again and again, as I understood, a fresh performer repeated the
+wearisome exercise; but my patience was exhausted, and, at the second
+course, with depressed spirits and painful impressions, I left the
+assembly.</p>
+
+<p>Several such meetings are established in different parts of the island,
+but no schools of a different character. The children are taught a
+little reading and writing in their parents' houses, and beyond this,
+knowledge is mischievous. It is true, that most of the Missionaries are
+incapable of communicating further instruction; but the opinion that it
+is easier to govern an ignorant than a well-educated community, seems
+here, as elsewhere, to form a fundamental principle of policy.</p>
+
+<p>To pray and to obey are the only commands laid upon an oppressed people,
+who submissively bow to the yoke, and even suffer themselves to be
+driven to prayers by the cudgel!</p>
+
+<p>A police-officer is especially appointed to enforce the prescribed
+attendance upon the church<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span> and prayer-meetings. I saw him in the
+exercise of his functions, armed with a bamboo-cane, driving his herd to
+the spiritual pasture. He seemed himself to be conscious of the
+burlesque attaching to his office,&mdash;at least he behaved very absurdly in
+it, and many a stroke fell rather in jest than in earnest. The drollery
+of the driver did not, however, enliven the dejected countenances of his
+flock.</p>
+
+<p>In the prayer-house, which at first, in my simplicity, I had taken for a
+school, no Missionary was present. The assembly consisting, except
+myself, of natives only, though tolerably quiet, was not so profoundly
+silent as at church. I endeavoured to read in the countenances of those
+around me, what might be the thoughts which at the moment occupied their
+minds, and few were the eyes which did not, as they passed muster, speak
+of other matter than devotion and the Bible. Most of them appeared
+engaged in very profane speculations: friendly glances occasionally
+interchanged, betrayed the hopes of the younger devotees; while many a
+stately Yeri was probably considering by what means he should procure
+from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span> my ship's-company an old waistcoat, or a pair of torn pantaloons
+in which he might appear with suitable dignity at the approaching
+coronation; and among the ladies, some might be weighing the pleasure of
+possessing a sailor's sheet, against the risks they must run to obtain
+it.</p>
+
+<p>Exactly facing me was seated a fair one most becomingly enveloped in
+this envied habiliment, and enjoying with modest complacency, but
+visible triumph, the admiration with which the eyes of her country-women
+were fixed upon her garment.</p>
+
+<p>I had heard from the Missionaries many wonderful accounts of the Lake
+Wahiria, situated among the mountains which rise in the centre of the
+northern peninsula. They had themselves never seen it, and considered it
+almost impossible for an European to reach it; even the boldest
+Tahaitians rarely visit it; and a saying is current in the island, that
+it is inhabited by an evil demon. Its depth they report to be
+unfathomable, and cannot conceive from what cause this huge body of
+water can be stationary at so great a height.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span></p><p>Mr. Hoffman, our mineralogist, an active young man, resolved to
+undertake this expedition, accompanied by three Tahaitians:&mdash;Maititi,
+who on our arrival had concluded a treaty of friendship with him, and
+adopted the name of Hoffman; Tauru, a respectable elderly man; and
+Teiraro, a brisk and lively young fellow. The two latter could write
+their own names. At first they raised many objections, assuring him that
+the journey, at all times difficult, was now dangerous from the waters
+being swollen by the rains; however, a shirt promised to each of them
+overcame all these obstacles, and the travellers set out at mid-day in
+excellent spirits. Maititi, a soldier in the royal Tahaitian army, bore
+the insignia of his rank in a musket, to which nothing but the lock was
+wanting, and a cartouche-box without powder. He had learnt a few English
+words, and, by their help, advised Mr. Hoffman to carry with him some
+presents for his countrymen: for he observed, that though hospitality
+and the consequence attaching to the stranger's appearance would secure
+him a good reception, it was desirable that a man with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span> whom he had
+united himself in the bonds of friendship, should also command respect
+by his liberality.</p>
+
+<p>They travelled on a broad fine path through forests of fruit trees, and
+several villages, and considered the population of this district to
+exceed that in the neighbourhood of Matarai. In the country of Weijoride
+they began to climb the mountains, and soon entered a charming valley
+stretching to the south-southwest, and enclosed by high steep rocks,
+basaltic, like those of Matarai. Down their precipitous sides clothed
+with the richest green rushed innumerable streamlets to swell the
+largest and most rapid rivulet on the island, which watered the whole
+extent of this luxuriant valley. Here the cocoa, palm, and the
+bread-fruit tree disappear, but bananas and oranges flourishing wild,
+produce finer and more juicy fruit than our best hot-houses.</p>
+
+<p>A few scattered huts raised on the margin of the little river, gave
+tokens of human habitation. In one of these, occupied by an old married
+pair, our travellers passed the first night. Maititi seemed to consider
+himself quite<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span> on a foraging party, and Mr. Hoffman was under the
+necessity of begging him to moderate his zeal, and leave the care of the
+entertainment to their host. The old man fetched a pig, and Maititi,
+with great dexterity, played the part both of butcher and cook. Mr.
+Hoffman describes the operation of lighting the fire on this occasion,
+in the following manner:&mdash;A Tahaitian took two pieces of wood of
+different degrees of hardness, laid the softer upon the ground, and very
+rapidly rubbed its length backwards and forwards with the harder. This
+made a furrow, in which the dust rubbed from the wood collected, and
+soon became hot; it was then shaken among dry leaves and burst into a
+flame. The whole process seemed easy and quick; but Mr. Hoffman could
+not succeed in it though he made many attempts. Before supper, the
+master of the house recited a prayer aloud, the family repeating it
+after him, but not audibly. They then ate a hearty but silent meal, and
+prayed again before lying down to sleep. The couch offered to Mr.
+Hoffman was a raised platform in the hut, thickly spread with mats, with
+a pair of sheets of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span> Tahaitian manufacture, called Tapa, for its
+covering.</p>
+
+<p>The volubility of his guides, restrained during the repast by the more
+important business of satisfying their appetites, now broke out to his
+great disturbance. They chattered almost incessantly during great part
+of the night with the host, whom they were probably entertaining with an
+account of our ship, which he had not yet visited, and of their
+intercourse with us. Mr. Hoffman, on taking leave in the morning, gave
+his host a knife, an important present, which the old man received very
+gratefully, as far exceeding his expectations.</p>
+
+<p>The valley as they proceeded became wilder, but more beautiful: it
+opened to greater width, the precipices around rose to a thousand feet
+in height, covered from their black summits down to the valley with
+green shrubs of a thousand hues, through which cascades glittering like
+silver in the sun, rushed gurgling and foaming to the river.</p>
+
+<p>At noon the travellers reached a hut inhabited by a friend of Maititi,
+named Tibu; the owner also of another hut some miles further<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span> up, where
+his wife lived with the pigs and dogs! This being the last station on
+the road to the Wahiria Lake, it was determined to spend the night here.
+Before they set forward in the morning, a large pig was tied up, to be
+prepared for killing on the expected return of Mr. Hoffman and his
+associates, whom the hospitable Tibu accompanied on the remainder of
+their journey.</p>
+
+<p>Here every vestige of a path disappeared. At a height of seven hundred
+and eleven feet above the level of the sea, the travellers found
+enormous blocks of granite lying in a south-easterly direction. The way
+to Wahiria lay towards the south-south-west. They continued ascending
+till they reached a marsh in a rocky basin, where wild boars were
+running about.</p>
+
+<p>Another steep precipice was to be climbed before they could reach the
+Valley of the Wahiria. This stretches from north to south, and forms an
+oval, in the centre of which lies the lake, according to barometrical
+measurement, one thousand four hundred and fifty feet above the level of
+the sea. The surrounding rocks rise perpendicularly more than two
+thousand<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span> feet. The lake is above a mile and a quarter in
+circumference,<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> and receives the springs from the mountains. A little
+brook also flows into it from the north, but no channel could be found
+by which its waters might be carried off. The depth of the lake near the
+shore is eleven, and in the middle not more than seventeen toises. After
+Mr. Hoffman had satisfied his curiosity, he returned with his companion
+to Tibu's hut, and happily reached its shelter before a heavy storm that
+followed them had begun to discharge its fury. Exhausted by the fatigue
+of the march, and the oppressive heat, Mr. Hoffman threw himself on his
+couch to take a little repose, while his companions killed and roasted
+the pig. The storm now burst in tremendous violence over the hut. The
+thunder rolled fearfully along the valley, and reverberated from the
+rocks; the lightnings gave to the thick darkness a momentary
+illumination equal to the brightness<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span> of mid-day, and the rain pouring
+down in torrents, suddenly swelled the rivulet, near which the frail
+dwelling was erected, far above its natural channel. Whoever has
+witnessed a violent storm in the high mountains of a tropical country,
+will never lose the impression of its awfulness.</p>
+
+<p>The following day being Sunday, Tauru, immediately on rising, repeated a
+long prayer, and then read a chapter of the New Testament, of which at
+least one copy was to be found in every hut. After a good breakfast, Mr.
+Hoffman wished to proceed, but his guides were not to be moved, and
+threats and entreaties were equally unavailing. They assured him that a
+continuation of the journey would be a profanation of the Sabbath, a
+crime for which they would be hanged, should it come to the knowledge of
+the Missionaries. This was a little too strongly expressed; and the
+tempting remains of the roasted pig had, no doubt, as much influence in
+supporting their resolution, as their religious scruples, or their fears
+of the Missionaries. The next morning they made no objection to setting
+out. Our travellers were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span> joined on the road by many families, laden
+with mountain bananas, so that they arrived in a large company at
+Matarai.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Hoffman made several other journeys into the interior of the island,
+and visited Arue, the present residence of the Court. The mineralogical
+and geological observations made on these excursions, are reserved for a
+separate treatise; but some particulars concerning his intercourse with
+the inhabitants, may be properly introduced here.</p>
+
+<p>The houses are merely built of perpendicular bamboo-canes, standing at
+some distance apart, to give free admission to the air. The roofs of
+palm-leaves are strong enough to defy the heaviest rain.</p>
+
+<p>As curious after novelty as more civilized infants, the heads of the
+children were thrust out from every hut he passed, and the parents
+hospitably asked him in. When he accepted the invitation, he was always
+conducted to the seat of honour, a raised bench covered with matting and
+tapa stuff; and, after freely partaking of the best the house afforded,
+was considered to have paid handsomely for his entertainment<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span> with a
+knife. Bedsteads made of bamboo-canes, and filled with soft matting, are
+placed along the walls, and make very comfortable, easy couches. These
+pleasant little abodes, in which the greatest cleanliness is everywhere
+observable, are all surrounded by cultivated gardens. In the evening,
+they are lighted by the oily nuts of the taper-tree, fastened in rows on
+splinters.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Hoffman's visit to the house of his friend Maititi, excited the
+greatest joy. His host presented to him his wife and children, and
+entertained him in the most splendid manner his means would allow.</p>
+
+<p>In the capital Mr. Hoffman found nothing remarkable. The palace
+inhabited by the Royal Family, was a spacious hut, with an ante-chamber
+or outer house, in which eight of the guard kept watch. Their only
+weapon was an old pistol fastened on a plank; this was frequently fired,
+probably to accustom the young King to the tumult of battle. The old
+King lies buried under a stone monument, in front of which three guns
+are kept; but, to prevent accidents, they are nailed up.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span></p><p>We have already mentioned the trade in cocoa-oil carried on by the
+Tahaitians, and the ship possessed by the Queen. This is commanded by an
+Englishman, and a part of the crew is also English. It was just returned
+from a voyage among the Society Islands, where it had been to collect
+tribute, and was preparing to carry a cargo of cocoa-oil, stowed in
+thick bamboo-canes, to Port Jackson. From the Captain, who visited me, I
+gained much information concerning the present state of affairs in these
+seas. He had learnt from ships returned from the Friendly Islands, that
+their King had recently conquered the Navigator Islands, which now paid
+tribute to him.</p>
+
+<p>The map of Matarai, and of the bay which bounds it on the north-east,
+completed by us with the utmost care from trigonometrical surveys, is
+attached to this volume, and renders any further description of the
+coast it embraces unnecessary. In December and January, the Tahaitian
+summer months, the trade-wind is often interrupted by violent
+north-westers. Rain and storms are then frequent, and often last till
+April; in the other months the trade-winds<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span> blow without intermission,
+and the sky is always serene. For this reason, what is here called the
+summer, might pass for the actual winter; and as the roads of Matarai
+are open to the west wind, it is advisable for ships visiting Tahaiti at
+this season, to run into the harbour, which lies eight miles west of
+Venus Point. It is spacious, formed by coral reefs, protected against
+all winds, and has two entrances so convenient, that ships may sail
+either in or out with almost any wind.</p>
+
+<p>The ebb and flow of the tide in the Matarai Bay differs entirely from
+the ordinary rules, and appears wholly uninfluenced by the moon, to
+which it is everywhere else subject. The rise and fall is very
+inconsiderable. Every noon the whole year round, at the moment the sun
+touches the meridian, the water is highest, and falls with the sinking
+sun till midnight. This phenomenon serves, as well as the sun's motion,
+to supply the place of clocks to the inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p>According to Humboldt, the altitude of the highest mountain in Tahaiti
+is ten thousand<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span> feet; according to the barometrical measurement of Mr.
+Long, only eight thousand feet above the level of the sea.</p>
+
+<p>Our first observation by chronometers, on our arrival at Matarai, gave
+the longitude of Venus Point as 149&deg; 20' 30"; the true one, as given by
+Admiral Krusenstern on his map, is 149&deg; 27' 20"; consequently, the error
+of our chronometers was 6' 50". This correction has been made in all the
+longitudes taken by us in the dangerous Archipelago. From our
+observatory on Venus Point, we found its latitude 17&deg; 29' 17", and its
+longitude 149&deg; 29'.</p>
+
+<p>The variation of the needle was 6&deg; 50' east, and its inclination 29&deg;
+30'.</p>
+
+<p>The barometer ranged from 29' 80" to 29' 70"; Reaumur's thermometer from
+twenty-three and a half to twenty-four and a half.</p>
+
+<p>The islands which I discovered on my former voyage in the ship
+Rurik,&mdash;the Romanzow, Spiridow, Dean's Islands, the Rurik's Chain, &amp;c.
+whose longitude I had not then an opportunity to rectify upon Venus
+Point, lie 5' 36" more to the west than I at first supposed.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span></p><p>The longitude given by Captain Bellingshausen for the island which he
+discovered, appeared to us by 3' 10" too great.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 24th of March, we broke up our tent on the Venus
+Point, left our dwelling-house, and shipped all our instruments and
+effects. The afternoon was appointed for our departure. The Tahaitians
+now boarded the ship, bringing as many provisions as they could carry.
+They expressed great regret at losing us; and, to prove the
+disinterestedness of their good-will, would accept no presents in
+return. They unanimously assured us, that of all nations whose ships had
+visited their island, none pleased them so well as the Russians. They
+took leave of us with the most cordial embraces, and many of them shed
+tears. They accompanied us in their canoes to the mouth of the Bay, and
+were standing out to sea, when a sudden and violent gust of wind forced
+them to return. The same gust very nearly carried away one of our sails,
+and the proximity of the land placed us for a minute or two in a
+critical situation, but the coolness and skill of our officers and men
+relieved<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span> us from the momentary danger. In half an hour the regular
+trade-wind returned, and with the liveliest wishes for the future
+welfare of the good Tahaitians, we lost sight of their lovely island.</p>
+
+<p>To the remarks concerning them already made, I will add some on their
+language, from the work on this subject which I have before mentioned.
+The author says, "The language spoken on most of the islands of the
+South Sea, and therefore called the Polynesian, may be considered either
+as primitive, or as related to, and descended from, a common source with
+the Malay." It is undoubtedly very old, for these people have been from
+an unknown period separated from all others, and before the arrival of
+Europeans among them, considered themselves as the whole human race.</p>
+
+<p>Although, in comparison with European languages, that of Tahaiti, as
+belonging to an ignorant and uncultivated people, is necessarily very
+defective, it perhaps surpasses all others in strength, precision, and
+simplicity,&mdash;in the personal pronouns especially. Its resemblance to the
+Hebrew, in the conjugation of the verbs,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span> as well as in the roots of
+some of the words, can easily be proved. Many of the words really appear
+of Hebrew origin: as for example, <i>mate</i>, dead; <i>mara</i>, or <i>maramosa</i>,
+bitter; <i>rapaon</i>, to heal, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>The Polynesian language being so widely extended, and spoken by the
+inhabitants of so many islands, who have little or no intercourse with
+each other, it naturally branches into many dialects. These are indeed
+so various, that they cannot readily be recognised as derivatives from
+the same stock.</p>
+
+<p>The principal dialects are,&mdash;that spoken in the Sandwich Islands, or the
+Hawaiian; that of the Marquesas; that of New Zealand; the Tongatabuan,
+spoken by the inhabitants of the Friendly Islands, and the Tahaitian.
+All the others, as far as they are known, are more or less related to
+these.</p>
+
+<p>The Tahaitian dialect is distinguished by its melody, as it has no broad
+or hissing consonants. The pronunciation is rendered difficult by its
+numerous diphthongs.</p>
+
+<p>The substantives do not change their terminations<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span> in declension; but
+the cases, of which there are but three, are formed by syllables
+prefixed: for example&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">SINGULAR.</p>
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Singular">
+<tr><td align='left'>Nom.&mdash;<i>Te taata</i>&mdash;the man.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Poss.&mdash;<i>No te taata</i>&mdash;of the man.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Object.&mdash;<i>He taata</i>&mdash;to the man&mdash;and the man.</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p class="center">PLURAL.</p>
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Plural">
+<tr><td align='left'>Nom.&mdash;<i>Te mau taata</i>&mdash;the men.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Poss.&mdash;<i>No te mau taata</i>&mdash;of the men.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Object.&mdash;<i>He mau taata</i>&mdash;the men&mdash;and to the men.</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>The Tahaitians have a great number of definite and indefinite articles,
+and prefixes, which they apply in a peculiar manner. The article te
+often stands before proper names; also before God, <i>Te Atua</i>; sometimes
+<i>o</i>, which then appears to be an article; as, <i>O Pomare</i>, <i>O Huaheine</i>,
+<i>O Tahaiti</i>. Sometimes this o is placed before the personal pronouns in
+the nominative case.</p>
+
+<p><i>O vau</i>, I; <i>o oe</i>, thou; <i>o oia</i>, she, he, it. In these pronouns the
+Tahaitian, and those languages to which it bears affinity, are
+particularly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span> rich. They have not only the dual of the Orientals, but
+two first persons in the singular as well as plural: for example&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+<i>O Taua</i>&mdash;thou and I.<br />
+<i>O Maua</i>&mdash;he and I.<br />
+<i>O Tatou</i>&mdash;you and I.<br />
+<i>O Motou</i>&mdash;we three, or several.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>By this the conjugation of the verbs is made more complicated than in
+other languages, but it again becomes easier from neither the person nor
+the tense changing the word itself, but all the variations being
+expressed by particular particles: for instance&mdash;<i>motau</i>, to fear; <i>te
+matau nei au</i>, I fear; <i>te matau ra oau</i>, I feared; <i>i motau na oau</i>, I
+have feared; <i>e matau au</i>, I shall fear.</p>
+
+<p>Since my readers will hardly wish to study the Tahaitian language very
+thoroughly, I here close my extracts from its grammar.&mdash;Whoever really
+desires to learn it must go to Tahaiti. I must, however, warn him to arm
+himself with patience; for though the Tahaitians are very ready with
+their assistance, they have quite as bad a habit as ourselves of
+laughing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span> at any one who speaks their language ill,&mdash;I say this from
+experience.</p>
+
+<p>Some months before us, the French Captain Duperr&eacute; had visited Tahaiti
+upon a voyage of discovery, in the corvette Coquille. He returned home
+in safety, and is about to publish his travels, of which he has already
+had the goodness to send me some portions. An important acquisition to
+science may be expected from this work.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr  /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225-26]</a></span></p>
+<p class="t5">THE PITCAIRN ISLAND.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="THE_PITCAIRN_ISLAND" id="THE_PITCAIRN_ISLAND"></a>THE PITCAIRN ISLAND.</h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">I did</span> not myself touch on this island, but I met in Chili an American
+Captain just returned from it, and in Tahaiti one of the earliest
+mothers of its population, who spoke English well enough to carry on a
+conversation. The information jointly obtained from both these persons,
+will not, I think, be unwelcome to my readers; and those who are
+unacquainted with the rise of this interesting colony, will perhaps find
+pleasure in a brief account of it.</p>
+
+<p>The English government appreciating the usefulness of the bread-fruit
+tree, and desirous of introducing it into the West-Indian colonies, in
+the year 1787, commissioned the ship Bounty, under the command of
+Lieutenant<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span> Bligh, who had already served as master under Captain Cook,
+to convey a cargo of these young trees from the South Sea Islands, to
+the West Indies. Forty-six men formed the ship's complement.</p>
+
+<p>After an excessively difficult voyage, during which he had vainly
+endeavoured, for thirty days, to double Cape Horn, and at length,
+yielding to necessity, had effected his passage by the Cape of Good
+Hope, he reached Tahaiti in safety in October 1788.</p>
+
+<p>Although the good-natured Tahaitians seem to have given great
+assistance, five months were occupied in lading the vessel; perhaps
+because Lieutenant Bligh and his crew found their station very
+agreeable. During this period the crew lived in the greatest harmony
+with the natives, especially the women; and this may probably afford a
+key to the subsequent fate of Bligh.</p>
+
+<p>On the fourth of April 1789, he sailed from Tahaiti, touched at one of
+the Friendly Islands to replace such of the young plants as had been
+destroyed, and on the 27th of the same month continued his course,
+cheered by the conviction<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span> of his ability to execute his commission, and
+to become the benefactor of the West Indies, by extending to them one of
+the greatest blessings bestowed by nature on her favourite children.</p>
+
+<p>But it was otherwise written in the book of Fate. The remorseless
+severity with which he treated those under his command,&mdash;the insults he
+offered them, having subjected even his mate, Christian Fletcher, to
+corporal chastisement, combined with the recollection of the pleasant
+time spent in Tahaiti, produced a conspiracy of some of the crew, headed
+by Fletcher, to seize on the ship, remove from it the commander and his
+adherents, and, renouncing England for ever, to return to Tahaiti, and
+spend there the remainder of their lives in ease and enjoyment.</p>
+
+<p>The conspirators kept their plan so profoundly secret, that neither
+Bligh nor any of those who remained faithful to him, imbibed the least
+suspicion of the criminal project, which was put in execution at sunrise
+on the 28th of April. The mate Christian, who then commanded the watch,
+entered, with two petty officers<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span> and a sailor, the cabin of Lieutenant
+Bligh, whom they found tranquilly sleeping. They fell on him, bound his
+hands behind his back, and threatened him with instant death if he
+uttered a sound, or offered the smallest resistance. Bligh, perfectly
+undaunted, endeavoured to grasp his weapons, and, on finding himself
+overpowered, called aloud for help; but the mutineers having, at the
+same moment, seized on all who were strangers to the plot, the
+unfortunate Commander had no resource but submission to his fate. He was
+carried on deck with no other covering than his shirt, and there found
+his faithful followers, nineteen in number, bound in a similar manner.</p>
+
+<p>The long-boat was now lowered; Bligh, in the mean time, attempting to
+recall the mutineers to their duty by unavailing remonstrances, to which
+renewed menaces of immediate death were the only answers.</p>
+
+<p>When the boat was ready, and the officers and sailors had been
+separately unbound and lowered into it, Christian addressed himself to
+Bligh: "Now, Captain, your officers and crew are ready; it is time for
+you to follow; any<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span> opposition will cost your life." He was then
+liberated, and put into the boat with his companions in misfortune,
+amidst the bitterest execrations for his past tyranny, from the
+mutineers. After some provisions had been furnished to the boat, and a
+compass, quadrant, and a couple of old sabres added, at the entreaty of
+its occupants, the mutineers set their sails and abandoned their former
+comrades to their fate, with shouts of "Down with Captain Bligh! Hurrah
+for O Tahaiti!"</p>
+
+<p>A regular narrative of what afterwards befell these unfortunate outcasts
+would not be strictly in place here; but such of my readers as are yet
+unacquainted with the facts, may learn with interest, that though
+abandoned on the vast ocean, in an open boat only twenty-three feet
+long, six feet nine inches broad, and two feet nine inches deep, very
+scantily provisioned, and destitute of a chart, they ultimately
+succeeded, by unparalleled efforts, in reaching a place of safety. The
+boat being, at the period of its desertion, within about thirty miles of
+the island of Tofoa, it was determined to land there, and take in a
+store of provisions, then<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span> proceed to Tongatabu, and solicit permission
+from the King of the Friendly Islands to put their boat into a
+practicable condition for hazarding a voyage to India.</p>
+
+<p>They effected their landing at Tofoa, and secured the boat to the
+strand, but were presently attacked by a multitude of savages, who
+saluted the defenceless strangers with showers of stones, and would soon
+have overpowered them, had not an heroic petty-officer, named Norton,
+resolved to sacrifice himself for the safety of his companions. He
+sprang on shore, loosened the iron chain which fastened the boat, and
+had only time to exclaim, Fly, fly! ere he was seized and murdered by
+the savages.</p>
+
+<p>This melancholy occurrence discouraged the fugitives from touching at
+Tongatabu, or any other island inhabited by savages. All now applied to
+Bligh, with the unanimous entreaty that he would conduct them to some
+port in the possession of Europeans; and took a solemn oath of the most
+unconditional obedience to him in the execution of this design. In
+compliance with their wishes, Bligh adopted the daring resolution of
+passing through the Torres Straits<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span> to the island of Timor, belonging to
+the Dutch. The distance was about four thousand miles; it was therefore
+indispensable to observe the most rigid economy in distributing the
+provisions. The whole crew submitted, without murmuring, to the daily
+allowance of an ounce of biscuit, and the eighth part of a bottle of
+water. On the following day a storm arose, which so filled the boat with
+water, that the most unremitting exertions were necessary to prevent her
+foundering. By a second storm, accompanied with violent rain, the small
+remaining provision of biscuit was transformed into a sort of paste,
+which now constituted their only food, and even of this they were
+henceforward obliged to partake yet more sparingly, as the voyage proved
+of longer duration than was at first calculated.</p>
+
+<p>Thus utterly exhausted by hunger, thirst, fatigue, wet, the burning rays
+of the sun, and sickness arising from such complicated sufferings, the
+unfortunate wanderers, after a voyage of thirty-two days, had the
+indescribable joy of beholding the coast of New Zealand, and entering
+the Torres Straits. They landed on a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span> little uninhabited island near the
+coast, where they found fine flavoured fruits, oysters, and the most
+delicious water, all in abundance.</p>
+
+<p>Refreshed by wholesome nourishment, they reposed with rapture for one
+night on terra firma; but the rising sun discovered new perils. The
+savages, armed with spears, had assembled on the opposite coast, and
+threatened them with a powerful irruption, which they thought it prudent
+to avoid, by a precipitate retreat from the island.</p>
+
+<p>They sailed through the channel with fine weather, and a tranquil sea.
+The natives beckoned from the shore with green boughs, inviting them to
+land; but Bligh would not trust the intentions of this little hideous
+negro race.</p>
+
+<p>Some other uninhabited islands served them as resting-places, and for
+recruiting their stores with fresh water and fruits. Reanimated by the
+hope of soon reaching the island of Timor and the term of their
+sufferings, the best spirits now prevailed among them.</p>
+
+<p>But the object of their wishes was still far distant. When the boat had
+passed the Torres<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span> Straits, and regained the open sea, all the
+inconveniences and misfortunes to which they had before been subjected,
+returned with redoubled severity. The whole crew was sick; some were
+ready to expire; almost all had resigned the hope of ever again finding
+safety in port, and besought Heaven only for deliverance from their
+accumulated sufferings by a speedy death. Bligh, though himself ill, did
+his utmost to inspire his men with courage, assuring them that they were
+approaching land.</p>
+
+<p>The promise did not fail. On the morning of the 12th of June, at three
+o'clock, the high mountains of the island of Timor rose in smiling
+majesty before them. This sight operated like an electric shock on the
+exhausted sufferers; they raised their hands to Heaven, and never
+certainly were thanksgivings more sincere. Two more days brought them to
+the Dutch settlement of Cupang, where the Governor received them with
+the utmost benevolence. The whole party, except one only, whose strength
+was entirely worn out, soon recovered their health, and found means of
+reaching England in March 1790.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span></p><p>It might have been supposed, that the terrible lesson Bligh had
+received would have taught him caution for the future; but it made
+little impression on his character. As commander of a ship of the line,
+his severity again provoked a mutiny; and when afterwards Governor of
+New South Wales, an insurrection was excited from the same excess of
+discipline.</p>
+
+<p>To return from this digression to the history of the colonization of
+Pitcairn Island. The mutineers of the Bounty, after the success of their
+plot, unanimously elected Christian for their Captain, and sailed for
+Tahaiti. On their way thither, they passed the small hilly, well peopled
+island of Tabuai, seen in 1777 by Cook, and formed the resolution of
+settling there. With much difficulty they brought the ship into harbour,
+through numerous coral reefs. They were received in the most friendly
+manner by the natives, who only showed symptoms of uneasiness when they
+saw the new comers preparing to erect a fortress on a point of land near
+the harbour; even in this obnoxious undertaking, however, they assisted;
+but harmony was not of much longer continuance.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span> The Europeans,
+confident in the superiority they derived from their weapons, soon
+became insolent, and especially irritated the islanders by the abduction
+of their women.</p>
+
+<p>A sudden attack was made on Christian and his crew, who gained a height,
+where they defended themselves, and so effectually, that none of the
+party was killed, and but one man wounded; while the fire of their
+muskets produced great havoc among the savages. Though conquerors in
+this instance, they however found it advisable to quit Tabuai, and to
+sail once more for Tahaiti. During the voyage thither, a deep melancholy
+seized the mind of Christian; remorse, and dark forebodings of the
+future, haunted him incessantly; he shut himself up in his cabin, seldom
+appeared, and spoke but little.</p>
+
+<p>When the Bounty again cast anchor before Tahaiti, the natives crowded to
+the shore, rejoicing in the speedy return of their friends, but were
+much surprised at missing the captain and a great part of the crew.
+Christian persuaded them that Captain Bligh and the other men had made a
+settlement on Tabuai, of which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> island the captain had become king, but
+that he himself, and those who accompanied him, preferred returning to
+Tahaiti, where among their kind friends, they wished to pass the
+remainder of their days. These innocent people gave implicit credence to
+his story, and heartily rejoiced in the prospect of their friends'
+continued residence among them. Christian's private intention, however,
+was to establish a colony on some unknown and uninhabited island, since
+it was easy to forsee, that the criminals would be first sought in
+Tahaiti, whenever the tidings of their proceedings should reach the
+English government. Being dissatisfied with some of his companions, or
+unable to obtain their concurrence in his views, he concerted his
+project with eight only of the crew, and under the strictest injunctions
+of secrecy. Thus arose a second conspiracy among the accomplices in
+guilt.</p>
+
+<p>Christian and the parties to his new plot, found an opportunity of
+engaging the rest of the crew at a distance, while they weighed anchor
+and stood out to sea, with eight Tahaitians<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span> and ten women, whom they
+had enticed to accompany them. After a search of some weeks in those
+seas, they accidentally lighted upon Pitcairn Island, discovered by
+Carteret in the year 1767. Its extent is inconsiderable, but they found
+it uninhabited, and the soil fruitful, although high and rocky.
+Christian and his companions examined it closely, and, charmed with its
+luxuriant vegetation, resolved here to conceal themselves for ever from
+the world, hoping by this means to escape the punishment they so well
+merited.</p>
+
+<p>All their endeavours to discover a harbour capable of admitting the
+Bounty, proving fruitless, they determined to place themselves under the
+lee of the island, save the cargo, and then destroy the ship, lest its
+appearance might betray them to vessels passing by.</p>
+
+<p>This resolution was carried into effect, the cargo was brought quickly
+ashore, and the ship burnt.</p>
+
+<p>At first the colony suffered from a scarcity of provisions, as the
+island produced neither bread-fruit nor cocoa-trees; they, however,
+contented<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span> themselves with a temporary subsistence on roots and fish,
+relying for the future improvement of their supplies on the trees
+destined for the West Indies, and other plants brought from Tahaiti;
+which had all been landed uninjured, and immediately planted. Time
+indeed was required before the bread-fruit and cocoa-trees would bear,
+but some sweet potatoes, yams, taro-roots, and others, yielded in the
+following year an ample harvest.</p>
+
+<p>Unanimity and concord appeared firmly established among the colonists,
+who, by common consent, elected Christian as their head. Pretty little
+huts, and diligently cultivated fields of taro, yam, and potatoes, soon
+adorned the wilderness. After the lapse of three years, Christian became
+the father of a son, whom he named Friday Fletcher October Christian;
+but the infant's birth made its father a widower. Strongly inclined to a
+second marriage, and all the women being already provided with husbands,
+he seduced a wife from one of the Tahaitians, who, incensed at this
+outrage, watched an opportunity when Christian was at work on his
+plantation, attacked, and murdered him.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span> Intelligence of this deed
+spreading quickly through the colony, produced instant retribution from
+the musket of an Englishman.</p>
+
+<p>Long inflamed by jealousy, at the decided preference shown by their
+females for the strangers, the passions of the Tahaitians were
+exasperated beyond endurance, by this act of retaliation; they made a
+sudden attack by night on the English, and murdered all, except one man
+named Adams, who, though severely wounded, contrived to escape into the
+forest, and elude the pursuit of the murderers. The women rendered
+desperate by the massacre of their lovers, and eager for revenge, found
+means to obtain it the very next night. They overpowered the Tahaitians
+in their sleep, and murdered them to a man!</p>
+
+<p>As soon as it was light in the morning, these blood-stained Meg&aelig;ras
+sought for the corpses of their beloved Englishmen, and perceiving that
+Adams was missing, conjectured that he might be concealed and safe;
+although traces of blood were visible on the ground of his hut. They
+accordingly searched<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span> the forest in every direction, and at last found
+him in a most miserable condition. They bound his wounds, carried him
+into a hut, and by their united care and the application of healing
+herbs, Adams, being young and vigorous, soon recovered his health. The
+affections of all the women now concentrated themselves in this one
+object. He became their common chief and husband, to whom they willingly
+promised obedience; and, according to his testimony, jealousy never
+embittered their lives.</p>
+
+<p>Till the year 1803, consequently during fourteen years, Adams remained
+with his progeny concealed from the world. In this year the English
+Captain Falgier, sailing from Canton to Chili, landed at Pitcairn's
+Island, where they with astonishment encountered a people speaking
+English, having the most intimate knowledge of European customs, and
+betraying their origin in their features and complexion. Adams himself
+explained to him the enigma. Falgier communicated the information he had
+received to the English Government, but represented the situation of the
+island so erroneously, that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span> it passed for a new discovery, till the
+English frigate Breton, in the year 1814, on her voyage from the
+Marquesas to the coast of Chili, also touched at the Pitcairn Island,
+which from the account of its discoverer Carteret, they considered
+uninhabited. The crew were therefore much surprised at the sight of
+cultivated fields, and ornamental cottages; and also of men assembled on
+the shore making friendly signals and inviting them to land. Some were
+even seen skilfully guiding their little canoes through the surf, and
+approaching the frigate.</p>
+
+<p>The sailors were about to address them in the language of the South Sea
+Islands, when their surprise was not a little increased by hearing the
+name of the ship and her captain enquired for, in pure English. The
+Captain himself replied to these questions, and the conversation
+becoming interesting, invited his new acquaintances on board; they
+immediately complied, and even when the whole crew surrounded them and
+overwhelmed them with questions, betrayed no symptom of the timidity
+universal among the South Sea islanders.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The young man who had first mounted the vessel, saluted the Captain with
+the greatest propriety, and enquired whether he had known in England a
+man of the name of William Bligh. This suddenly threw a light on the
+mystery of the Pitcairn islanders; and they were in return asked if
+there was a man on the island named Christian. The answer was "No, he
+has been long dead, but his son is in the boat which is coming
+alongside." This placed the origin of the colony beyond all doubt.</p>
+
+<p>The crew of the Breton were further informed, that the whole population
+of the island consisted of forty-eight persons&mdash;that the men were not
+allowed to marry before their twentieth year, and must only have one
+wife&mdash;that Adams had instructed them in the Christian religion&mdash;that
+their general language was English, but that they also understood the
+Tahaitian, and that they acknowledged the King of England as their
+sovereign. On being asked if they did not wish to go to England with the
+frigate, they answered "No: we are married and have children."</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span></p><p>The sight of a ship of war and its crew, they said, was no novelty to
+them; and they mentioned Captain Falgier's visit to their island. A
+little black poodle dog which they suddenly caught sight of, put them
+all to flight. "That is certainly a dog," they exclaimed, as they
+retreated; "we have never seen one, but we know that it will bite." A
+little observation, however, convinced them of the animal's good-nature,
+and they were soon induced to play fearlessly with him. Being conducted
+into the cabin, they were there entertained with a breakfast, at which
+they behaved very modestly, and showed in their conversation much
+natural understanding. They said a grace before eating, and then partook
+with a good appetite of the provision set before them.</p>
+
+<p>With much difficulty the Captain effected a landing. A pleasant path
+winding among groves of cocoa and bread-fruit trees, led him to a very
+pretty, well situated little village, whose houses, though small, were
+convenient and beautifully clean.</p>
+
+<p>One of Adams's daughters, a young and very attractive looking girl,
+received the guests, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span> conducted them to her father, a man of sixty,
+but still of very vigorous appearance.</p>
+
+<p>The conversation naturally fell on Christian's mutiny, in which Adams
+maintained he had taken no part, having been wholly unacquainted with
+the design till the moment of its execution. He spoke with abhorrence of
+the manner in which Captain Bligh and his officers and men had been
+treated.</p>
+
+<p>The Captain proposed to Adams to accompany him back to England; but the
+whole colony assembling round him, with tears in their eyes, besought
+him not to take their good father from them. The scene affected even the
+Englishmen.</p>
+
+<p>The Pitcairn islanders are of very pleasing exterior; they have black
+hair and beautiful teeth. The men are slender, and their height five
+feet ten inches and upwards. The dress of both sexes consists of a
+mantle like the Chilian pancho, and they wear hats made of reeds adorned
+with feathers. They still possess a great quantity of old clothes from
+the ship Bounty, but, with better taste than their maternal ancestors
+the Tahaitians, they never wear<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span> them. The island has a beautiful
+appearance, and is said to be extremely fruitful. Wild boars are found
+in the interior.</p>
+
+<p>Seven years after this visit of the Breton, the American merchant-ship
+Eagle, whose Captain I met in Chili, touched on Pitcairn Island. He
+found the population already increased to a hundred persons, and was
+delighted with the order and good government of the little colony. Adams
+reigned as a patriarch king amongst them, and, as sovereign arbitrator,
+settled all disputes, no one presuming to object to his decision. Every
+family possessed a portion of land; the fields were measured off from
+each other, industriously cultivated, and yielding abundant crops of
+yams and sweet potatoes. On Sundays, the whole population assembled at
+Adams's house, when he read the Bible to them, exhorted them to concord
+and good conduct, and took pains to confirm their virtuous dispositions.</p>
+
+<p>Every evening at sunset, when after the heat of the day the inhabitants
+of this delightful climate are revived by the refreshing coolness of the
+air, the young people formed a semicircle<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span> round their beloved father,
+while he communicated to them some knowledge of the manners and history
+of his native country, its connections with other nations, and the arts,
+inventions, and customs of the European world. Adams's knowledge is
+probably not very extensive, but it has sufficed to enable him to train
+up his numerous family in habits and information which fit them for the
+easy acquisition of all the arts of civilization.</p>
+
+<p>His attentive auditory have accurately retained his instructions, and
+converse with wonderful facility on the characteristics and customs of
+different nations.</p>
+
+<p>Abusive words are strictly prohibited; and some of the islanders,
+perfectly astonished at hearing a sailor on board the American vessel
+which visited them swear at another, enquired of the Captain whether
+such expressions were permitted in his country.</p>
+
+<p>The Captain was enchanted with the conduct and character of this amiable
+people; and ascribed their virtues to the instructions and example of
+their patriarch. This good old man, however, expressed much anxiety
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span>concerning the future. "I cannot," said he, "live much longer,&mdash;and who
+shall prosecute the work I have begun? My children are not yet so firmly
+established, but that they are liable to fall into error. They require
+the guidance of an intelligent virtuous man from some civilized nation."</p>
+
+<p>At Tahaiti, as already stated, I met with one of Adams's wives, who had
+arrived there a short time before in an European ship, and from her I
+learnt many of the particulars here related. She spoke tolerably good
+English, but with a foreign accent. This old woman had been induced, by
+that longing for our native home which acts so powerfully upon the human
+mind, to return to the land of her birth, where she intended to have
+closed her life, but she soon changed her mind. The Tahaitians, she
+assured me, were by no means so virtuous as the natives of the little
+Paradise to which she was now all impatience to return. She had a very
+high opinion of her Adams, and maintained that no man in the world was
+worthy of comparison with him. She still spoke with vehement indignation
+of the murder of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span> English by her countrymen, and boasted of the
+vengeance she had taken.</p>
+
+<p>Adams, who was now very aged and feeble, had proposed to the
+Missionaries to send a Tahaitian as his successor; and fearing that the
+population of his island might exceed the means of subsistence which
+their quantity of arable land afforded, he was desirous of settling some
+of his families in Tahaiti.</p>
+
+<p>With his first wish the Missionaries will certainly comply as a means of
+extending their dominion over Pitcairn Island also. May Adams's paternal
+government never be exchanged for despotism, nor his practical lessons
+of piety be forgotten in empty forms of prayer.</p>
+
+<p>In the year 1791, the English frigate Pandora was sent, under the
+command of Captain Edwards, to the South Sea in pursuit of the mutineers
+against Bligh. Those who had remained in Tahaiti were found and carried
+back to England, where they were condemned to death according to the
+laws; the royal mercy was extended to a few only, the rest suffered the
+full penalty of their crime.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 750px;"><a href="images/image3.jpg">
+<img src="images/image3_th.jpg" width="750" height="596" alt="CHART OF THE NAVIGATORS' ISLANDS" title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">CHART OF THE NAVIGATORS' ISLANDS</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251-52]</a></span></p>
+<p class="t5">THE NAVIGATORS' ISLANDS.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="THE_NAVIGATORS_ISLANDS" id="THE_NAVIGATORS_ISLANDS"></a>THE NAVIGATORS' ISLANDS.</h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">On</span> leaving Tahaiti, I proposed to pass a few days on the Radack Islands,
+which I had formerly discovered; and, on my way thither, determined to
+visit the Navigators' Islands. These are probably the same seen by
+Roggewin in 1721, which he called Baumann's Islands; but Bougainville
+has appropriated the discovery, as made by him in 1766, and given them
+the name they now bear, on account of the superior sailing vessels built
+there, and the remarkable skill the inhabitants display in their
+management. Neither Roggewin nor Bougainville have given their situation
+accurately, nor have these original errors been perfectly corrected by
+the unfortunate La P&eacute;rouse, or the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span> Englishman Edwards, who alone are
+known to have since touched on these islands; the former visited only
+the more northern islands; and the latter communicated no particulars of
+his voyage to the public. I therefore considered it worth the trouble to
+complete the survey, by examining those which lay to the south of La
+P&eacute;rouse's track.</p>
+
+<p>I at first steered past the Society Islands, lying to leeward from
+Tahaiti, in order to rectify their longitude; and afterwards carefully
+endeavoured to avoid the course taken, to my knowledge, by any former
+navigator.</p>
+
+<p>On the 25th of March we saw, to the north, the island of Guagein, and to
+the north-west that of Ulietea. When the western point of the latter lay
+due north from us, I found its longitude, according to our chronometers,
+151&deg; 26' 30", which is nearly the same as on the maps.</p>
+
+<p>The island of Maurura, on the contrary, is very inaccurately laid down;
+we found the longitude of the middle of this island, as we sailed past
+its southern coast, to be 152&deg; 10' 40". In the evening we had already
+cleared the Society Islands, and were pursuing a westward course.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span></p><p>On the following morning we perceived a cluster of low coral islands,
+connected by reefs, which, as usual, enclosed an inland sea. The country
+was covered with thick dwarf shrubs; and, in the whole group, we saw but
+one cocoa-tree rising solitarily above the bushes. A multitude of
+sea-birds, the only inhabitants of these islands, surrounded the vessel
+as we drew nearer. The group stretches about three miles from North to
+South, and is about two miles and a half broad. Guided by observations
+which, from the clearness of the atmosphere, I had been enabled to make
+correctly immediately before they came in sight, I estimated their
+latitude as 15&deg; 48' 7" South; their longitude as 154&deg; 30'. We were the
+first discoverers of these Islands, and gave them the name of our
+meritorious navigator, Bellingshausen.</p>
+
+<p>The night was stormy: morning indeed brought cheerful weather, but no
+cheerful feelings to our minds, for we had lost another member of our
+little wandering fraternity; he died, notwithstanding all the efforts of
+our skilful physician, of a dysentery, occasioned by the continual heat
+and the frequently damp air.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span> This same year the Tahaitians suffered
+much from a similar disease, and died in great numbers from the want of
+medical assistance. The Missionaries, who only desire to govern their
+minds, have never yet troubled themselves to establish any institution
+for the health of the body.</p>
+
+<p>During this and the few succeeding days, the appearance of great flocks
+of sea-birds frequently convinced us that we must be in the
+neighbourhood of unknown islands; but as from the mast-head they can
+only be discerned at a proximity of fifteen or sixteen miles, we did not
+happen to fall in with them.</p>
+
+<p>On the second of April, however, we passed a little uninhabited island,
+something higher than the coral islands usually are. Its latitude is 14&deg;
+32' 39" South, and its longitude 168&deg; 6'. I then considered it a new
+discovery, and gave it the name of my First Lieutenant, Kordinkoff; but,
+on my return, I learned that it had been previously discovered by
+Captain Freycinet, on his voyage from the Sandwich Islands to New
+Holland, in the year 1819; the narrative of which had not appeared<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span> when
+I left Europe. The situation of this island, as he has given it,
+corresponds exactly with my own observation.</p>
+
+<p>This same night, by favour of the clear moonshine, we saw the most
+easterly of the Navigators' Islands, Opoun, rising from the sea like a
+high round mountain. Westward from it, and close to each other, lie the
+little islands Leoneh and Fanfueh.<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> Near these is Maouna, with another
+little island at its north-east point. Forty-five miles further lies
+Ojalava, and ten miles and a half from it Pola, the largest, highest,
+and most westward of the group: connected with them are several other
+small islands, which I shall hereafter have occasion to mention.</p>
+
+<p>As the chart which accompanies this volume accurately describes the
+geographical situation of all these islands, it is only necessary here
+to remark, that it was drawn up from the most diligent astronomical
+observations.</p>
+
+<p>All these islands are extremely fertile, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span> very thickly peopled.
+Ojalava surpasses any that I have seen, even Tahaiti itself, in
+luxuriant beauty. The landscape of Pola is majestic; the whole island is
+one large, high, round mountain, which strikingly resembles the
+Mauna-roa upon the island of Owahy: it is not quite so lofty indeed as
+the latter, but its altitude is about the same as that of the Peak of
+Teneriffe.</p>
+
+<p>All the islands of the South Sea are more or less formed of coral reefs,
+which make secure harbours; the Navigators' Islands only are not
+indebted to these active little animals for this advantage. We sailed
+round all their coasts, and could find but one open bay, which runs far
+inland in the island of Maouna, opposite the small island already
+noticed off its north-east point.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of these islands are still far less civilized than were
+the Tahaitians when first discovered by Wallis. Those of Maouna
+especially are perhaps the most ferocious people to be met with in the
+South Sea. It was they who murdered Captain de Langle, the commander of
+the second ship under La P&eacute;rouse,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span> the naturalist Laman, and fourteen
+persons from the crews of both ships, on their venturing ashore;
+although they had loaded the natives with presents.</p>
+
+<p>These savages attacked them with showers of stones; and the muskets of
+the Europeans after the first discharge, which unfortunately did but
+little execution, could not be reloaded speedily enough for their
+protection. Triumphing in their inhuman victory, they mangled and
+plundered the remains of their unfortunate victims.</p>
+
+<p>We sailed to the scene of this dreadful occurrence, since called
+Massacre Bay. The appearance of the country was inviting; the shores
+were bordered with cocoa-trees, and the freshest vegetation enlivened
+the interior, but nothing betrayed that the island was inhabited; no
+smoke arose, and no canoe was to be seen; this was the more remarkable,
+as on La P&eacute;rouse's arrival, his ship, as soon as perceived by the
+natives, was surrounded by several hundred canoes laden with provisions.
+A small canoe, carrying only three men, at length rowed towards us; we
+laid to, and by signs gave permission to the savages to come on board;
+this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span> they could not resolve upon; but one of them climbed the ship's
+side high enough to see over the deck, and handed to us a few
+cocoa-nuts, all the provisions they had brought; a piece of iron, which
+we gave him in return, he pressed to his forehead in sign of
+thankfulness, and then bowed his head. He examined the deck a long time
+with prying and suspicious glances, without speaking a word; then
+suddenly commenced a long pathetic harangue, growing more and more
+animated as he proceeded, and pointing with passionate gestures,
+alternately to the ship and the land. His eloquence was quite thrown
+away on us; but the silence with which we listened, might probably lead
+him to suppose that we attached some importance to it. His confidence
+gradually increased, and he would perhaps have spoken longer, had not
+his attention been arrested by the approach of several canoes.</p>
+
+<p>We were soon surrounded by the descendants of the barbarian murderers;
+perhaps some of the actors in the atrocious deed might even themselves
+be amongst the crowd which now assembled around us. This wild troop
+appeared<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span> timid at first, but our orator having encouraged them, they
+became so impudent and daring, that they seemed disposed to storm the
+ship. I ranged my sailors fully armed round the deck, to keep off such
+disagreeable visitants, but with strict orders to avoid hurting them. It
+was, however, only the bayonets and lances which prevented the multitude
+from climbing into the ship; and some of the most daring, by patiently
+enduring heavy and repeated blows, even succeeded in reaching the deck;
+they grasped with both hands any object they could cling to, so
+pertinaceously, that it required the united efforts of several of our
+strongest sailors to throw them overboard. Except a few cocoa-nuts, they
+brought us no kind of provisions, but by pantomimic gestures invited us
+to land; endeavouring to signify that we should be richly provided on
+shore with every thing we wanted. The savages had probably destined for
+us the fate of De Langle and his companions; they appeared unarmed, but
+had artfully concealed clubs and short lances in their canoes.</p>
+
+<p>A very few of them, whom we permitted to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span> remain on deck, behaved as
+impudently as if they had been masters of the ship; they snatched from
+my hands some little presents I was about to distribute among them,
+exhibiting them to their companions in the canoes below. This excited
+amongst the latter a terrific rage, and, with noise and gestures
+resembling madness, they endeavoured to frighten us into compliance with
+their desire to come on board. Only one among them received the presents
+we made him, with any appearance of modesty or thankfulness; the others
+seemed to consider them as a tribute due to them. This more decorous
+personage bowed towards me in almost an European fashion, pressed the
+articles given him several times to his forehead, and then, turning to
+me, rubbed the point of his nose pretty roughly against mine. This young
+savage was probably a person of rank, who had received a particularly
+good education; he was of a cheerful temper, examined every thing very
+closely, and made many remarks to those in the canoes, which were
+apparently considered extremely witty, for he was always answered by
+bursts of laughter. The rest of his countrymen<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span> who remained on board,
+became very troublesome; like the beasts of the deserts, scarcely more
+wild than themselves, they tried to seize by main force whatever we
+would not willingly give them. One of them was so tempted by the
+accidental display of a sailor's bare arm, that he could not help
+expressing his horrible appetite for human flesh;&mdash;he snapt at it with
+his teeth, giving us to understand by unequivocal signs, that such food
+would be very palatable to him. This proof that we were in communication
+with cannibals, needed not the picture presently conjured up by our
+imagination, of the detestable meal which the unfortunate Frenchmen had
+doubtlessly afforded to their murderers, to complete our disgust and
+aversion, and to accelerate the expulsion of the remaining savages from
+our vessel.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of many of the South Sea islands are still cannibals,
+and most of them, even where this abominable propensity does not
+prevail, are of so artful and treacherous a character, that none should
+venture among them without the greatest precaution. Their friendliness
+arises from fear, and soon vanishes when<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span> they think themselves the
+strongest, and are not exposed to vengeance. I would not even advise
+placing too much confidence in the inhabitants of Radack, who are
+certainly among the best of these islanders. It is only when ideas of
+right and wrong are steadily fixed, that man becomes really rational;
+before this, he is like other animals, the mere slave of his instincts.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of Maouna are probably the worst of these tribes; those
+we saw were at least five feet and a half in height, slender, their
+limbs of a moderate size, and strikingly muscular; I should have thought
+their faces handsome, had they not been disfigured by an expression of
+wildness and cruelty; their colour is dark brown; some let their long,
+straight, black hair hang down unornamented over neck, face, and
+shoulders; others wore it bound up, or frizzed and crisped by burning,
+and entangled like a cap round the head: these caps are coloured yellow,
+and make a striking contrast with the heads which remain black. Some,
+again, coloured their hair red, and curled it over their shoulders like
+a full-bottomed wig. A great deal of time must be required for this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span>
+mode of dressing, a proof that vanity may exist even among cannibals.
+The glass beads they obtained from us they immediately hung over their
+neck and ears, but had previously no ornaments on either. Most of them
+were quite naked; only a few had aprons made of the leaves of some kind
+of palm unknown to us, which from their various colours and red points
+resemble feathers. Since the time of La P&eacute;rouse, the fashion in
+tattooing appears to have very much altered: he found the inhabitants of
+the South Sea Islands so tattooed over the whole body, as to have the
+appearance of being clothed;&mdash;now most of them are not tattooed at all;
+and those few who are, not with various drawings as formerly, but merely
+stained blue from the hip to the knee, as though they had on short
+breeches.</p>
+
+<p>In the canoes we saw a few women who were all very ugly: these
+disagreeable creatures gave us to understand that we should by no means
+find them cruel&mdash;a complaisance which did not render them the less
+disgusting. La P&eacute;rouse here describes some attractive females: these
+were as brown as the men, and as little dressed; their hair was cut
+short<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span> off, with the exception of two bunches stained red, which hung
+over their faces.</p>
+
+<p>Scarcely one of these savages was without some remarkable scar: one of
+them attracted our attention by a deep cut across the belly. We
+contrived to ask him how he got this cicatrice; and he pointed to his
+lance, from which it may be inferred that they are not unaccustomed to
+war, either with their neighbours or each other, and that they are
+possessed of skilful surgeons. No one of this people seemed to exercise
+any authority over the others. Either no chief accompanied the party who
+came to us, or the term does not signify much power or distinction.</p>
+
+<p>The few fruits which they brought with them were exchanged for pieces of
+iron, old barrel-hoops, and glass beads; on the latter especially they
+set great value, and even brought forward some of their concealed arms,
+and offered them in exchange for this costly decoration. Meanwhile the
+crowd of canoes round the ship grew more and more numerous, and in the
+same proportion the boldness of the savages increased. Many of them rose
+up in their canoes, and made<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span> long speeches to, or at us, accompanied by
+angry and menacing gestures, which drew shouts of laughter from their
+companions. At length the screaming and threatening with clubs and
+doubled fists became general. They began to make formal preparations for
+an attack, and we again had recourse to bayonets and lances to keep them
+at a distance. I confess that, at this moment, I had need of some
+self-command to overcome my inclination to revenge on the ferocious
+rabble the fate of La P&eacute;rouse's companions.</p>
+
+<p>Our guns and muskets were all ready loaded. A sign from me would have
+spread dismay and death around us; and had we stayed longer among this
+brutal race, we must inevitably have made them feel the power of our
+cannon.</p>
+
+<p>We therefore spread our sails, and the ship running swiftly before the
+wind, many of the canoes which had fastened themselves about her were
+suddenly upset. Those who fell into the water took their ducking very
+coolly, righted their canoes again, and threatened revenge on us with
+the most violent gestures. Several of them clung like cats to the sides
+of the ship, with nails which might have rivalled those of a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span> Chinese
+Mandarin; and we had recourse to long poles as the only means of freeing
+ourselves from such undesirable appendages.</p>
+
+<p>At the western promontory of the island we again lay to, and purchased
+two pigs from some canoes which soon came up. The savages here in no
+other respect differed from those of Massacre Bay, than by conducting
+themselves in a rather more peaceable manner, probably from fear, as
+their number was small.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening the island of Olajava appeared in sight; and about seven
+miles from a little island lying in its neighbourhood, several canoes,
+carrying two or three men each, rowed towards us, deterred neither by
+the distance nor the increasing darkness. Our visitors proved to be
+merry fishermen, for their carefully constructed little canoes adorned
+with inlaid muscle-shells, were amply provided with large angling hooks
+made of mother-of-pearl, attached to long fine lines, and various kinds
+of implements for fishing, and contained an abundance of fine live fish
+of the mackerel kind.</p>
+
+<p>An expression of openness and confidence sat on the countenances of this
+people. Our<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span> purchases were carried on with much gaiety and laughter on
+both sides. They gave us their fish, waited quietly for what we gave
+them in return, and were perfectly satisfied with their barter.</p>
+
+<p>Their attention was strongly attracted to the ship. They examined her
+closely from the hold to the mast-head, and made many animated remarks
+to each other on what they saw. If they observed any man&#339;uvres with
+the sails or tackle, they pointed with their fingers towards the spot,
+and appeared to watch with the most eager curiosity the effect produced.</p>
+
+<p>It was evident that this people, sailors by birth, took a lively
+interest in whatever related to navigation. Their modest behaviour
+contrasted so strikingly with the impudent importunity of the
+inhabitants of Maouna, that we should have been inclined to consider
+them of a different race, but for their exact resemblance in every other
+particular, even in the dressing of their hair, though this was even
+more elaborately performed&mdash;an attention to appearance which is curious
+enough, when compared with the dirty, uncombed locks of European
+fishermen; but<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span> among the South Sea Islanders fishing is no miserable
+drudgery of the lowest classes, but the pride and pleasure of the most
+distinguished, as hunting is with us. Tameamea, the mighty King of the
+Sandwich Islands, was a very clever fisherman, and as great an
+enthusiast in the sport as any of our European princes in the stag
+chase. As soon as the increasing darkness veiled the land from our
+sight, our visitors departed, and we could hear their regular measured
+song long after they were lost from view.</p>
+
+<p>The little island they inhabit not being marked on any map, it is
+probably a new discovery. By what name the natives called it I could not
+learn; and therefore, to distinguish it from three other small islands
+lying to the north, mentioned by La P&eacute;rouse, I gave it the name of
+Fisher's Island. It rises almost perpendicularly from the sea to a
+considerable height, and is overgrown with thick wood.</p>
+
+<p>On the following day we sailed with a brisk wind to the island of
+Olajava, for the purpose of surveying the coast. A number of canoes put
+off from the land, but could not overtake the ship; and I would not lie
+to, on account of the hinderance it occasioned to our work. In the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span>
+afternoon we found ourselves near the little island lying off the
+north-west point of Olajava, called by La P&eacute;rouse the Flat Island. A
+hill situated in its centre has, in fact, a flat surface, which La
+P&eacute;rouse, at a distance of thirty miles, mistook for the whole island,
+because the low land which surrounds it was not within the compass of
+his horizon.</p>
+
+<p>For the same reason he could not observe that the eastern part of this
+island is connected with the western coast of Olajava by two reefs
+forming a basin, in the middle of which is a small rock. If these be
+indeed coral reefs, which they certainly resemble, they are the only
+ones I have remarked in the Navigators' Islands.</p>
+
+<p>The Flat Island, which, for the reason above mentioned, occupies a much
+larger space on our map than on that of La P&eacute;rouse, is entirely
+overgrown with wood, and has a very pleasant appearance. At a little
+distance from this, to the north-west, another little island, which does
+not appear to have been observed by that Voyager, rises perpendicularly
+from the sea. Its sloping back is crested with a row of cocoa-trees so
+regularly arranged, that it is difficult to conceive them planted by the
+unassisted hand<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span> of Nature; viewed laterally from a short distance, they
+present the form of a cock's-comb, on which account I gave the island
+this name, to distinguish it from the rest. On its western side a high
+conical rock is covered from top to bottom with a variety of plants,
+evincing the prolific powers of Nature in these regions, where
+vegetation is thus luxuriantly fastened on the most unfavourable soils.</p>
+
+<p>North-west of this rock lies a third small island, exceeding both the
+others in elevation: its sides fall precipitously to the sea, and the
+upper surface describes a horizontal line thickly clothed with beautiful
+trees. As its circumference is only three miles and a half, it can
+hardly be the same that La P&eacute;rouse has called Calinasseh. Probably he
+did not observe this island at all, but took the high round mountain on
+the low north-east point of Pola for a separate island, to which he gave
+the name of Calinasseh. The promontory of Pola deceived us also at a
+little distance, but a closer examination convinced us of our error, and
+I transferred the name of Calinasseh to the above-mentioned small
+island.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span></p><p>When the Flat Island lay about three miles to our right, the wind again
+died away. This opportunity was not lost by the natives of Olajava, who
+had all the while followed us in their canoes. They exerted themselves
+to the utmost, and their well worked little vessels swiftly skimmed the
+smooth surface of the sea to the accompaniment of measured cadences,
+till they at last reached the ship.</p>
+
+<p>A horde of canoes now put off towards us from the Flat Island, and we
+were soon surrounded by immense numbers of them, locked so closely
+together, that they seemed to form a bridge of boats, serving for a
+market well stocked with fruits and pigs, and swarming with human beings
+as thick as ants on an anthill: they were all in high spirits, and with
+many jests extolled the goods they brought, making much more noise than
+all the traffic of the London Exchange. Even on our own deck we could
+only make ourselves heard by screaming in each other's ears.</p>
+
+<p>Our bartering trade proceeded, however, to our mutual satisfaction.
+Those who were too far off to reach us endeavoured by all sorts of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span>
+gesticulation, and leaping into the air, to attract our notice. Many of
+the canoes were in this manner upset,&mdash;an accident of little consequence
+to such expert swimmers, and which only excited the merriment of their
+companions.</p>
+
+<p>Accident gave us specimens of their extraordinary skill in diving. We
+threw some pieces of barrel-hoops into the sea, when numbers of the
+islanders instantly precipitated themselves to the bottom, and snatched
+up the booty, for the possession of which we could plainly distinguish
+them wrestling with each other under the water. They willingly obeyed
+our orders not to come on deck, and fastened their goods to a rope, by
+which they were drawn on board, waiting with confidence for what we
+should give them, and appearing content with it. Some few had brought
+arms with them, but for trading, not warlike purposes; and although so
+vastly superior to us in numbers, they behaved with great modesty. We
+saw no scars upon them, like those of their neighbours of Maouna&mdash;a
+favourable sign, though they certainly seemed to belong to the same
+race. It<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span> would be interesting to know the cause of this striking
+difference.</p>
+
+<p>In less than an hour we had obtained upwards of sixty large pigs, and a
+superfluity of fowls, vegetables, and fruits of various kinds, covering
+our whole deck, all of which cost us only some pieces of old iron, some
+strings of glass beads, and about a dozen nails. The blue beads seemed
+to be in highest estimation. A great fat pig was thought sufficiently
+paid for by two strings of them; and when they became scarce with us,
+the savages were glad to give two pigs for one such necklace.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the fruits and roots they brought were unknown to us; and their
+great size proved the strength of the soil. The bananas were of seven or
+eight species, of which I had hitherto seen but three in the most
+fruitful countries. Some of them were extremely large, and of a most
+excellent flavour. One of the fruits resembled an egg in size and
+figure; its colour was a bright crimson; and on the following day when
+we celebrated the Easter festival after the Russian fashion, they
+supplied to us the place of the Easter eggs.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span></p><p>I must yet mention two more articles of our marketing&mdash;namely, tame
+pigeons and parrots. The former are widely different from those of
+Europe both in shape and in the splendour of their plumage; their claws
+are also differently formed. The parrots are not larger than a sparrow,
+of a lively green and red, with red tails more than four times the
+length of their whole bodies. All these birds, of which great numbers
+were brought to us, were so tame, that they would sit quietly on the
+hand of their master, and receive their food from his mouth; the
+inclination for taming them, and the method of treatment, is favourable
+evidence of the mildness which characterises this people.</p>
+
+<p>How many other unknown plants and animals may exist among these islands,
+where Nature is so profuse! and how much is it to be regretted that no
+secure anchorage can be found, which would enable an European expedition
+to effect a landing with proper precautions. Some idea may be formed of
+the dense population of the Flat Island, from the fact that, small as is
+its extent, above sixty canoes, each containing seven or eight men, came
+to us<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span> from it in less than an hour; and had we stayed longer, the
+canoes must have amounted to some hundreds, as the whole sea between us
+and the island was rapidly covering with increasing numbers.</p>
+
+<p>Our market became still more animated when, the ship's provision being
+completed, I gave permission to the sailors to trade each for himself;
+as hitherto, to avoid confusion, the bargains had all been made by one
+person. Now some wanted one thing, some another from the canoes; and
+buttons, old bits of cloth, and pieces of glass, were offered in
+exchange. The noise became louder and louder; and the sailors laid in
+such a stock of their own, that for weeks afterwards their
+breakfast-table was always provided with a roasted pig stuffed with
+bananas, and their palates gratified with abundance of delicious fruits.
+They unanimously declared that they had never seen so rich a country.</p>
+
+<p>Our trade was interrupted by the appearance of a great canoe surrounded
+with lesser ones, which, advancing towards us, drew the attention of all
+the natives. They called out<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span> <i>Eige-ea Eige</i>, and hastened to give place
+to the new-comers. The canoe, rowed by ten men, large and elegantly
+embellished with muscle-shells, soon approached us. The heads of the
+rowers and of the steersman were decorated with green boughs, probably
+in token of peace.</p>
+
+<p>In the fore part of the vessel, on a platform covered with matting, sat
+an elderly man cross-legged in the Asiatic fashion, holding a green,
+silk European parasol, which we conjectured must have belonged to one of
+the unfortunate companions of La P&eacute;rouse, and have been obtained by this
+chief from Maouna. His clothing consisted of a very finely plaited
+grass-mat, hanging like a mantle from his shoulders, and a girdle round
+his waist. His head was enveloped in a piece of white stuff, in the
+manner of a turban. He spoke a few words, accompanied by a motion of the
+hand, to his countrymen or subjects, who immediately made way for his
+canoe to come alongside; and on our invitation he came on board attended
+by three persons.</p>
+
+<p>He was not tattooed, was about six feet high, thin, but vigorous and
+muscular. His<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span> features were not handsome but agreeable; his countenance
+was intelligent and reflective; his behaviour modest and decorous.</p>
+
+<p>On entering the ship, he inquired for the <i>Eigeh</i>, and I was pointed out
+to him; he approached me, bowed his head a little, spoke a few words
+which I did not understand, and then took hold of my elbows with both
+hands, raised them up several times, and repeated the English words
+"Very good." After this welcome, which I returned in an European manner,
+he gave me to understand that he was Eigeh of the Flat Island, and
+commanded his attendants to lay at my feet the presents he had brought
+for me, consisting of three fine fat pigs, which he called <i>boaka</i>, and
+some fruits. I presented him in return with a large hatchet, two strings
+of blue beads, and a coloured silk handkerchief, which I bound for him
+myself over his turban. The <i>Eigeh</i> appeared excessively happy in the
+possession of these treasures, and tried to express his thankfulness by
+various gesticulations, and the repetition of the words "Very good." He
+also seemed to hold the blue beads in great estimation, and could not
+feel convinced that all those<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span> riches actually belonged to him. He
+inquired in pantomime if he might really keep both necklaces; and on my
+assuring him that he might, the old man forgot his dignity, and jumped
+about like a boy with the beads in his hand, calling out, "Very good!
+very good!" A fat treasurer shared the joy of his lord, and
+punctiliously imitated its expression, though not without some
+difficulty. When this tumult of pleasure had a little subsided, the
+latter produced a small basket very prettily plaited, and provided with
+a lid, and placed in it the costly acquisitions of the <i>Eigeh</i>; who
+himself took from it a Spanish dollar, and endeavoured to make me
+comprehend the question, whether this would purchase more blue beads.</p>
+
+<p>To judge if he had any idea of the value of money, I offered him a
+single bead for his dollar; he immediately closed with the bargain, and,
+fearing that I might repent of mine, snatched up the bead and thrust the
+money into my hand. I returned it to him; but, to his delight and
+astonishment, left him in possession of the bead. I now tried to learn
+from him how he came by this coin.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span> He soon comprehended my meaning,
+pointed to the south, named Tongatabu, one of the Friendly Islands,
+which are some days' voyage from his own, and gave us to understand that
+he had sailed thither in his own vessel, and had there met with a ship
+from whose <i>Eigeh</i> he had obtained the dollar as well as the parasol.
+The boldness and skill these islanders display in the management of
+their fragile canoes, guiding them on long voyages merely by the sun and
+stars, in a region where the trade-wind is seldom constant, is most
+surprising.</p>
+
+<p>I also made some little presents to the suite of the <i>Eigeh</i>, and the
+good people were lost in amazement at their costliness, till their
+attention was withdrawn from them to the ship itself. Their inquisitive
+eyes wandered in all directions, and their astonishment and admiration
+was loudly expressed. The <i>Eigeh</i> contemplated the objects before him
+with more tranquillity, and asked but few questions, having already seen
+a ship, which his companions probably had not.</p>
+
+<p>He remarked, however, with wonder the number<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span> of our guns and muskets,
+which he called <i>Puas</i>; counted them several times over, and clasped his
+hands above his head to express his surprise. He intimated to us that he
+knew the effect they produced, by pointing to a gun, trying to imitate
+the sound of the report, and then closing his eyes and hanging his head.
+He explained this to his companions, who were so terrified by what he
+told them, that they would not again venture near the guns.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile our traffic was renewed, though rather confusedly, from the
+impatience of the islanders to dispose of their property; the <i>Eigeh</i>
+grew angry at this, and pressed me much to fire my <i>puas</i> on the
+boisterous mob. Was he then really acquainted with their destructive
+power, and so indifferent about human life? Or, was he aware of the
+possibility of firing with blank cartridges? This remained uncertain.</p>
+
+<p>A telescope which I held in my hand attracted the observation of the
+chief, who took it for a gun. I directed him to look through it; but the
+sudden vision of the distant prospect brought so close to his eye that
+he could even distinguish the people on the strand, so terrified<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span> him,
+that nothing could induce him to touch the magic instrument again.</p>
+
+<p>He took much pains to persuade me to visit him on shore, embraced me
+repeatedly, and gave me to understand that we might cast anchor by his
+island, and that we should there have as many pigs as we pleased. At
+length he took my arm, and leading me to the railing, whence we could
+see the throngs of islanders busied with their barter, pointed to the
+women among them, whom he called <i>waraki</i>, shook his head, and said "No
+very good." Then he pointed to the island, and said in a kind tone,
+"Very good <i>waraki</i>." I very easily withstood this last temptation,
+strong as the <i>Eigeh</i> seemed to think it; but I would willingly have
+seen the beautiful country, had it been possible to make a landing under
+the protection of our guns, for which however the wind was not
+favourable: a longer stay might besides have rendered our situation
+critical. We had a perfect calm, and were driven by a strong current
+towards the land; I therefore took advantage of the first puff of wind
+to make as much sail as I could, amidst the loud lamentations of the
+islanders,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span> who expressed their regret in a mournful parting song.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Eigeh</i>, perceiving that his invitations would not be accepted, took
+a friendly leave of us: he seized me again by my elbows, hung his head,
+repeated several times the word "<i>Marua</i>," and departed. The canoes did
+not follow him, but remained near us, as our vessel could make but
+little way on account of the slackness of the wind.</p>
+
+<p>The traffic was now over, and the attention of our companions therefore
+free to observe all our proceedings in the ship. Some of them thought to
+amuse us by making leaps into the air, and then begged for a reward. We
+did not disappoint them, and the tricks were reiterated, till a sudden
+gust of wind changed their merriment into consternation. The canoes
+immediately ahead of the ship could not leave its passage clear in time
+to prevent our running down great numbers of them. In a moment our
+majestic vessel had distanced the multitude of its diminutive
+attendants, leaving extreme confusion behind it. The islanders' skill in
+navigation, however, enabled them speedily to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span> recover from the shock,
+and the wind falling again, they succeeded in overtaking us. In the
+effort to accomplish this, they left all those to their fate who were
+still swimming about in search of their lost oars, and took no notice
+whatever of their cries for assistance. We pointed their attention to
+their forsaken companions, but the volatile creatures only laughed, and
+not a single canoe would return to take them in. At length, towards
+nightfall, they left us with the cry of "<i>Marua! Marua!</i>"</p>
+
+<p>Among these islanders we observed the disease of elephantism, from which
+the Tahaitians suffer so much; otherwise they appeared healthy. If, as
+the Tahaitian captain said, they are subject to the Friendly Islanders,
+and must pay a yearly tribute to Tongatabu, the island Maouna, which
+Nature herself has made a strong fortress, and whose inhabitants are
+such fierce warriors, is probably excepted.</p>
+
+<p>The following day we surveyed the magnificent island of Pola. Its lofty
+mountain was enveloped in thick white clouds, which seemed to roll down
+its sides, while the majestic summit rose into a cloudless region above
+them.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span> The most luxuriant vegetation covers even its highest points.
+From a considerable elevation down the sea-shore, the island presents a
+charming amphitheatre of villages and plantations, and confirmed us in
+the opinion, that the Navigators' Islands are the most beautiful in the
+Southern Ocean, and consequently in the whole world.</p>
+
+<p>The shore was thronged with people, some of whom pushed their canoes
+into the sea to approach us, and others stood quietly watching us as we
+sailed past. The recurrence of a calm enabled the islanders to reach us,
+and our traffic with them was carried on in the same manner as with the
+natives of the Flat Island.</p>
+
+<p>To avoid repetition, I shall only remark, that they seemed more shy than
+our yesterday's friends; that one of them offered us a red paint for
+sale; and that another cheated us. The former daubed his face with some
+of the colour to show us its use. Since none of them were painted with
+it, it is probably only used in war, or on grand occasions. The cheat
+remained, when the darkness had driven the other islanders homewards,
+bargaining with us for the price<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span> of a hog: a sack was lowered to him
+with the required payment, and when drawn up was found to contain a dog.
+The rascal had made off, but we sent a bullet after him, which seemed to
+produce no small dismay.</p>
+
+<p>On the following day, the 7th of April, having completed our
+observations, we took our course with a fresh trade-wind and full sails
+towards the north-west, in a direction where, according to the opinion
+of hydrographers, islands must lie.</p>
+
+<p>With respect to our geographical observations on the Navigators'
+Islands, I must make one remark&mdash;that all the longitudes found by us
+differ from those of La P&eacute;rouse by from 20 to 23', and the points
+observed lying so many miles more easterly than he considered them. His
+observations were grounded on the distance of the moon, which always
+gives a false longitude unless there is an opportunity of seeing the
+moon at equal distances, right and left, from the sun. Our longitudes
+were fixed by good chronometers, which having been regulated at Cape
+Venus, could not in so short a time have made any important error.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 750px;"><a href="images/image4.jpg">
+<img src="images/image4_th.jpg" width="750" height="586" alt="CHART OF THE ISLANDS OF RADAK AND RALIK" title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">CHART OF THE ISLANDS OF RADAK AND RALIK</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289-90]</a></span></p>
+<p class="t5">RADACK CHAIN OF ISLANDS.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="RADACK_CHAIN_OF_ISLANDS" id="RADACK_CHAIN_OF_ISLANDS"></a>RADACK CHAIN OF ISLANDS.</h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">On</span> the 8th of April, at noon, we found ourselves, according to our
+observation, in the latitude 11&deg; 24' South, and in the longitude 174&deg;
+24'. We had left the north-west point of the island of Pola one hundred
+and forty miles behind us: the weather was fine, the horizon very clear,
+but we looked in vain from the mast-head for land.</p>
+
+<p>Hence we gave up any further search in this quarter, and directed our
+course to the north, for the shortest way to cut the Equator, and then,
+by the help of the north-east trade-wind, to reach Radack, where we
+intended to stop and make observations on the pendulum, the results of
+which, in the neighbourhood of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span> Equator, would be important to us. I
+appointed Otdia, belonging to this chain of islands, for our residence,
+as affording the most convenient anchorage for large ships.</p>
+
+<p>We were so much delayed by calms, that we could not till the 19th of
+April reach the ninth degree of south latitude. Here we encountered
+gusts of wind and torrents of rain, and a current carried us daily from
+twenty to thirty miles westward. When we were under three degrees south
+latitude, and one hundred and eighty degrees longitude, the current
+suddenly changed, and we were driven just as strongly to the East,&mdash;a
+circumstance too remarkable to be passed over in silence. At a distance
+from land in the vicinity of the Equator, the currents are always
+westerly. Here it was precisely contrary; from what cause I am unable to
+explain.</p>
+
+<p>From the fifth degree of south latitude to the Equator, we daily
+perceived signs of the neighbourhood of land. When we were exactly in 4&deg;
+15' latitude, and 178&deg; longitude, heavy gales brought swarms of
+butterflies and small land-birds to the ship; we must therefore<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span> have
+been near land, but we looked for it in vain; and this discovery remains
+for some future navigator.</p>
+
+<p>On the 22nd we cut the Equator in the longitude 179&deg; 43', and once more
+found ourselves in our own Northern hemisphere&mdash;nearer to our native
+country, though the course by which we must reach it would be still
+longer than that we had traversed. Our old acquaintance the Great Bear
+showed himself once more, and we looked upon him with joy, as though he
+had brought intelligence from our distant homes.</p>
+
+<p>We now again employed Parrot's machine to draw up water from a depth of
+800 fathoms. Its temperature was only six degrees of Reaumur, while that
+of the water at the surface was twenty-three degrees.</p>
+
+<p>A tolerably strong wind, which blew during several successive days,
+brought us within sight of the Radack Islands, on the morning of the
+28th of April.</p>
+
+<p>To those who are yet unacquainted with these islands, and cannot or will
+not have recourse to my former voyage, I must be excused giving a few
+particulars concerning them.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span></p><p>In the year 1816, in the ship Rurik, I discovered the chain of islands
+called by their inhabitants, Radack. It consists of several groups lying
+near each other, and these again of many small islands united by reefs
+and surrounding great basins of water. All these being formed by the
+coral insect, are very low, and still but thinly covered with soil, so
+that they want the luxuriance of vegetation usual in this climate; their
+population is scanty; and the most important island of a group commonly
+gives its name to the whole.</p>
+
+<p>The Radackers are tall and well made, of a dark brown complexion; their
+black hair is neatly bound up, and that of the women decorated with
+flowers and strings of muscle-shells. Their features are soft and
+agreeable, and many of both sexes may be considered beautiful. They
+attain a great age, and though less robust than some other South Sea
+islanders, and subsisting wholly on fish and vegetables, are generally
+healthy. In gentleness and good-nature they excel them all, even perhaps
+the Tahaitians.</p>
+
+<p>The chief or sovereign of all these islands is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span> named Lamari: the chiefs
+of the particular groups are subordinate to him; and under these are the
+chiefs of the separate islands composing each group. The chief of the
+group Otdia is called Rarik. I gave his portrait in my former voyage,
+and was particularly pleased with him, and with another native of the
+same group, named Lagediak. An inhabitant named Kadu of the group Kawan,
+no native, but thrown there by a storm from the island of Ulle, made the
+voyage from Otdia to Unalaschka and back with us in the ship Rurik, and
+gained the good-will of the whole crew. He gave us some instructions in
+the Radack language; and on our second visit could interpret pretty well
+between us and the islanders, as he already spoke a little Russian: his
+portrait also is prefixed to one of the volumes of my former voyage.</p>
+
+<p>After an absence of eight years, I was now again in sight of my
+favourite Radack Islands, where I had passed several weeks among some of
+the best of Nature's children. Whoever has read my former narrative,
+will imagine the pleasure with which I anticipated my certain welcome; I
+pictured to myself a meeting on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span> which the heavens themselves appeared
+to smile. It was an uncommonly fine day, and a fresh and favourable wind
+carried us quickly towards land. Our inquiring glances soon showed us
+from the deck, on the island Otdia, the airy groves of palms which
+enclose the residence of Rarik, and under whose shade I had so often sat
+among the friendly islanders. We could now distinguish boats sailing
+about on the inner basins, from one island to another, and a crowd of
+people running to the shore to gaze at the ship. I knew my timid friends
+too well, not to guess what was passing in their minds. I had indeed, on
+parting from them, promised to visit them again, but the length of time
+which had since elapsed had probably extinguished this hope; and they
+would easily perceive that the great three-masted ship they now saw was
+not the small two-masted Rurik of their acquaintance. If, therefore, the
+first glimpse of the vessel had flattered them with the expectation of
+seeing me again, their pleasure had been ere this converted into fear.
+Uncertain how they might be treated by the strangers, the women and
+children fled to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span> interior, and all the canoes were set in motion to
+carry their little possessions to some place of comparative safety. The
+most courageous among them advanced armed with spears to the shore,
+displaying their valour while the danger was yet distant.</p>
+
+<p>It is not surprising that timorous apprehensions should agitate these
+poor people on the appearance of a strange vessel. Their western
+neighbours, the inhabitants of the island of Ralick, and of the southern
+islands of the groups Mediuro and Arno, which are much more thickly
+peopled, sometimes attack them with a superior force, plunder them,
+destroy their fruit-trees, and leave them scarcely subsistence enough to
+preserve them from starving. They had indeed imbibed from the crew of
+the Rurik a favourable opinion of white people; but the ship which now
+approached them was a monster in comparison of it, and they were
+excusable in supposing it manned by another and unknown race.</p>
+
+<p>We now reached the group Otdia, and sailed close under the outward reef,
+towards the Schischmaref Strait, through which I proposed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span> to enter the
+basin. The sight of the ship diffused terror throughout all the islands
+as we passed, and the natives fled for concealment to the forests. As we
+approached the Lagediak Strait, the breeze was sufficient to warrant us
+in venturing through it; I therefore gave up my intention of entering by
+the Schischmaref Strait where the wind would be against us, spread all
+sail, and soon rode on the placid waters of the basin. I would not
+however advise seamen, without an adequate inducement, to choose this
+strait: it is so narrow, that stones might easily be thrown across from
+either shore; while, on the contrary, the breadth of the Schischmaref
+Strait admits of tacking, and renders its passage easy with a good ship.
+The water in the Lagediak is so transparent, that in a depth of fourteen
+fathoms, every stone at the bottom is discernible; the officer who sat
+in the tops on the watch for shallows, deceived by this appearance,
+expected every moment that the ship would run aground.</p>
+
+<p>We continued to sail pleasantly on the beautiful smooth water of the
+basin, but the wind blowing directly off the island of Otdia, (after<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span>
+which the whole group is named, and where I hoped to meet with Rarik,) I
+was compelled, as it grew dark, to cast anchor before the island of
+Ormed, in a depth of thirty-two fathoms, on a bottom of fine coral sand.
+Till the ship entered this natural harbour, the courage of the islanders
+did not quite forsake them, as they supposed the entrance to be unknown
+to us, and the exterior coast they trusted to the protection of the
+surf; but when we had penetrated into the basin, the panic became
+universal. We observed a constant running backwards and forwards on the
+shore; canoes hastily laden and rowed away, some to the right and some
+to the left, but none coming near us. The whole island of Ormed seemed,
+on our arrival, to have fairly given up the ghost. It was not till after
+dark that we could perceive any trace of life upon it; large fires were
+then kindled in two places at some distance from each other, while many
+smaller ones were flickering between them. We could also hear a sort of
+shrieking song, accompanied by the drum, which I knew to be their manner
+of calling on the gods for help, and which proved the extent of the
+alarm we had<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span> occasioned. This religious rite lasted through the night,
+but with the morning's dawn my friends had again disappeared, and the
+stillness of death prevailed as before.</p>
+
+<p>We weighed anchor, and endeavoured by tacking to reach Otdia; and in so
+doing, often came very close upon the little picturesque bright green
+islands which studded the sparkling lake. The fresh morning breeze
+wafted aromatic odours towards us; but the huts of the inhabitants stood
+empty and desolate. When we were near Otdia, we again descried canoes
+sailing as close as possible to the shore. The population was busy on
+the strand, but no one seemed rightly to know what should be done in
+this alarming crisis. We next saw a long procession of islanders,
+bearing branches of palm as symbols of peace, taking advantage of the
+ebb-tide to cross the reef towards Otdia, and carrying baskets of
+cocoa-nuts and other fruits on poles. Hence it appeared that my friends
+had yielded to their destiny, and hoped to win the favour of the
+intruders by humility and presents. From their former dismay,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</a></span> I
+anticipated that Kadu was absent, or he would have inspired his
+countrymen with more confidence.</p>
+
+<p>We dropped anchor at noon opposite Otdia, on the same spot where the
+Rurik formerly rode. I then ordered a small two-oared boat to be
+lowered, and to make my first visit as little formidable as possible to
+my friends, went ashore with only Dr. Eschscholz and two sailors. We
+rowed direct to Rarik's residence, where no human being was visible. A
+little canoe, bringing three men from a neighbouring island, now neared
+the shore, but immediately endeavoured to escape on observing that we
+steered towards it; in vain I waved a white handkerchief, a signal I had
+formerly been accustomed to make; they persisted in crowding sail, and
+taking all possible pains to get out of our reach; but their extreme
+anxiety now rendered that difficult which they usually perform with
+great dexterity. While they disputed vehemently among themselves, we
+gained materially upon them, and their entangled ropes refusing the
+assistance of their sails, they were on the point<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></span> of trusting to their
+skill in swimming for safety, when two words from me changed all this
+terror into equally clamorous joy. I called to them "<i>Totabu</i>," the word
+into which they had tortured my name; and "<i>Aidarah</i>," an expression
+signifying both <i>friend</i> and <i>good</i>. They stood motionless, waiting for
+a repetition of the cry, to convince themselves that their ears had not
+deceived them; but on my reiterating "<i>Totabu Aidarah</i>," they burst into
+the wildest acclamations of joy; called aloud to the shore, "<i>Hei
+Totabu, Totabu!</i>" and leaving their canoe to take care of itself, swam
+to land, incessantly repeating their exclamations of joy.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of Otdia, who had been observing us from behind the
+bushes, now that the well-known name resounded through the island,
+sprang from their concealment, giving vent to their rapture in frolic
+gestures, dances, and songs. Numbers hurried to the strand; others ran
+into the water as high as their hips, to be the first to welcome us. I
+was now generally recognised, and called Rarik, because, according to
+the custom prevailing here, I had sealed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</a></span> my friendship with that chief
+by an exchange of names. They also recognised Dr. Eschscholz, who had
+been of my former expedition, and heartily rejoiced in seeing again
+their beloved "<i>Dein Name</i>." This was the name he had borne among them;
+because when they asked his name, and he did not understand the
+question, several of our people called to him "<i>Dein name</i>," which was
+immediately adopted as his designation.</p>
+
+<p>Four islanders lifted me from the boat, and carried me ashore, to where
+Lagediak awaited me with open arms, and pressed me most cordially to his
+bosom. The powerful tones of the muscle horn now resounded through the
+woods, and our friends announced the approach of Rarik. He soon appeared
+running at full speed towards us, and embraced me several times,
+endeavouring in every possible way to express his joy at our return.</p>
+
+<p>Though the friends to whom I was thus restored were but poor ignorant
+savages, I was deeply affected by the ardour of their reception; their
+unsophisticated hearts beat with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</a></span> sincere affection towards me,&mdash;and how
+seldom have I felt this happy consciousness among the civilized nations
+of the world!</p>
+
+<p>Even the women and children now made their appearance; and, among them,
+Rarik's loquacious mother, who with much gesticulation made me a long
+speech, of which I understood very little. When she had concluded, Rarik
+and Lagediak, each offering me an arm, led me to the house of the
+former.</p>
+
+<p>Upon a verdant spot before it, surrounded and shaded by bread-fruit
+trees, young girls were busily spreading mats for Dr. Eschscholz and
+myself to sit on. Rarik and Lagediak seated themselves facing us, and
+the mother (eighty years of age) by my side, at a little distance. The
+other islanders formed a compact circle around us; the nearest line
+seating themselves, and those behind standing, to secure a better view
+of us. Some climbed the trees; and fathers raised their children in
+their arms, that they might see over the heads of the people. The women
+brought baskets of flowers, and decorated us with garlands; and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</a></span> Rarik's
+mother, drawing from her ears the beautiful white flower of the lily
+kind, so carefully cultivated here as an indispensable ornament of the
+female sex, did her best to fasten it into mine with strings of grass,
+while the people expressed their sympathy by continual cries of
+"<i>Aidarah</i>." In the mean time the young girls were employed in pressing
+into muscle-shells the juice of the Pandanus, which they presented to
+us, with a sort of sweet-meat called Mogan, prepared from the same
+fruit; the flavour of both is very agreeable.</p>
+
+<p>We were now overwhelmed with questions from all sides; to which, from
+our imperfect knowledge of their language, we could return but few
+answers. Rarik and Lagediak expressed their astonishment at the size of
+our ship, inquired what was become of the Rurik, and, whether their
+friends Timaro, Tamiso, &amp;c. (Schischmaref and Chamisso) were still
+living, how they were, and why they did not accompany us.</p>
+
+<p>After the first ebullition of joy at our meeting, I thought I perceived
+by the deportment of Rarik, that he had something on his mind;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</a></span> he
+seemed conscious of some fault, and in vain endeavoured, under friendly
+looks and words, to conceal a latent uneasiness. I even thought I could
+trace a similar feeling in his mother and Lagediak. Pained by these
+appearances, I asked an explanation. Rarik could no longer control his
+feelings, but immediately fell, like a repentant child, in tears upon my
+neck, without however confessing the cause of his agitation. On quitting
+the island eight years previously, I had appointed Kadu to the
+guardianship of the plants and animals we left behind, with the
+strongest injunctions on all the islanders to avoid injuring them, and
+threats of exacting a severe account on my return for any such offence.
+I had not yet ventured to inquire after them, fearful that the report
+might prove unsatisfactory, and cast a cloud over the pleasure of our
+meeting. It now occurred to me that Rarik must in some way have injured
+Kadu; perhaps he might even have put him to death. I looked sternly in
+Rarik's face, while I inquired after him, but he answered me quite
+innocently that Kadu was well and residing on the Aur group<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</a></span> of islands
+with their chief Lamari. The old mother then took up the conversation,
+and very diffusively related that Lamari, soon after our departure, had
+come hither with a fleet, and forcibly carried to Aur all the animals,
+plants, tools, pieces of iron,&mdash;in short, whatever we had left on the
+island.</p>
+
+<p>Lagediak confirmed this tale, and added, that Lamari had demanded of
+every islander, under pain of death, the last piece of iron in his
+possession. Kadu, he said, soon after our departure, had married a
+handsome girl, the daughter or relation of the chief of Ormed; had been
+raised to the dignity of a Tamon-ellip, or great-commander, by Lamari;
+and having freely made over the half of his treasures to this personage,
+(a step which I had myself advised,) had been permitted to retain
+peaceable possession of the remainder. It was also by his own desire
+that Lamari had removed him to Aur, where he continued his
+superintendence of the plants and animals. Kadu had commissioned
+Lagediak to relate all these circumstances to me, with a request that I
+would visit him at Aur; an <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</a></span>invitation which with regret I was prevented
+accepting by the large size of my ship.</p>
+
+<p>I was glad however that Kadu had settled in Aur, as I hoped that the
+animals and plants with which I had enriched these islands would
+flourish under his care; and I learnt from Rarik that when he was a
+short time before in Aur, on a visit to his father, they had propagated,
+and were doing well. Swine and goats already formed part of their
+festival provisions, and Rarik had himself partaken of such a feast. I
+rejoiced in this information, and in the promise it afforded, that
+through my means the time may be approaching when the barbarous custom
+of sacrificing the third or fourth child of every marriage, from fear of
+famine, may wholly cease.</p>
+
+<p>The cat was the only animal of those I had left at Otdia which remained
+there; and it was no longer of the domestic species; it had become very
+numerous and entirely wild, but as yet had occasioned no sensible
+diminution in the number of rats. It may be hoped, however, that as the
+cats have no other food, those voracious pests of the gardens may at
+length be exterminated.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[Pg 309]</a></span> These cats, under the influence of a strange
+climate, and in an undomesticated state, may perhaps undergo some change
+of properties and habits, by which naturalists, always well pleased to
+enlarge their zoological lists, may be led to consider them as an
+unknown species of tiger. To obviate this error, I advertise such gentry
+beforehand, that the animal in question is absolutely nothing more than
+the ordinary European household cat.</p>
+
+<p>Of the plants which we had introduced to the Radackers, the vine alone
+had failed. Lagediak pointed out to me the spot on which we had planted
+it. It had withered, but not till, from the extreme fruitfulness of the
+soil, its tendrils had reached the tops of the highest trees.</p>
+
+<p>I was not surprised that Kadu should have married soon after our
+departure a native of the island of Ormed. The girls there are
+particularly handsome, and we had some suspicion of an affair of the
+heart, from the sudden change in his previous determination to accompany
+us to Russia, which took place immediately after an excursion he had
+made with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[Pg 310]</a></span> Mr. Chamisso to Ormed. Fortunately for himself, he preferred
+a quiet domestic life under his own beautiful sky, to tempting the
+severity of our Northern climate, which would probably soon have
+destroyed him; and fortunately for his countrymen, he remained to
+cultivate among them the beneficial arts of gardening and breeding of
+cattle.</p>
+
+<p>The melancholy of Rarik still continuing after all this explanation, I
+again inquired the cause. He then tremblingly led me by the arm to the
+cocoa-tree, against which I had fastened a copper-plate, bearing the
+name of my ship, and the date of my discovery of the island, and
+denouncing severe punishment in case of its removal. It had
+disappeared:&mdash;how easily might Rarik and Lagediak, and the crowd of
+people, all equally dejected, who followed us, have excused themselves
+by an assertion, that Lamari, on his predatory expedition, had carried
+off this plate; but they were too honourable. Imploring my pardon, they
+candidly confessed that they had been deficient in their care of
+it,&mdash;that it had been stolen, and that they had been unable to discover
+the thief.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[Pg 311]</a></span></p><p>Rejoiced to find that their melancholy arose from no cause more serious
+than this, I cordially embraced my friends, while they wept for joy in
+my arms. Their happiness was now complete, and the multitude returned
+with us, shouting for joy, to Rarik's dwelling, where an <i>Eb</i>, or
+artless opera, was represented; the subject,&mdash;my crew of the Rurik and
+myself: each song celebrated one of us individually, and the praises of
+the whole were chanted in the concluding chorus. I regretted much that I
+could not understand them better. The words, <i>moll</i> (iron), <i>aidarah</i>
+(friend), <i>tamon</i> (commander), <i>oa ellip</i> (great boat), and Kadu's name,
+were frequently repeated. The Radackers preserve their traditions in
+these poetic representations; and as they assemble every evening to
+amuse themselves with dancing and singing, the children, while taking
+part in these innocent pleasures, learn the history of their country in
+the most agreeable manner, and communicate it in their turn to
+succeeding generations.</p>
+
+<p>When the dramatic piece was concluded, and I had distributed all the
+little presents I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[Pg 312]</a></span> had brought, I returned to my vessel, my friends
+promising me a visit the same day.</p>
+
+<p>I now had all the boats lowered to bring ashore our tent and pendulum
+apparatus. The islanders received the sailors with great alacrity,
+brought them cocoa-nuts, helped them to disembark, and set up the tent,
+and appeared delighted with our intention of establishing ourselves on
+land.</p>
+
+<p>Rarik and Lagediak were the first who visited us in the afternoon. They
+rowed several times in their little canoe round the ship, contemplated
+it very attentively, and with emotions of wonder, repeatedly exclaiming,
+<i>Erico! Erico!</i>&mdash;a word denoting admiration. When I met them upon deck,
+they forgot to salute me, stood at first riveted to the spot like
+statues, till an "O, o!" stretched to a minute's length, gave vent at
+last to their astonishment. I led them round, and showed them all that
+could interest them, their surprise increasing with every novelty they
+saw.</p>
+
+<p>Lagediak inquired if the ship and all its appurtenances had been made in
+Russia; and on my answering in the affirmative, exclaimed,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[Pg 313]</a></span> <i>Tamon
+Russia, ellip, ellip!</i> words which my readers will now be prepared to
+understand.</p>
+
+<p>Lagediak soon commenced an admeasurement of the ship in all directions,
+with a string he had brought for this purpose: having obtained the
+dimensions of the ship's body, he next climbed the masts, to measure the
+yards and sails. My friends also expressed much surprise at the great
+number of men on board, and tried to count them. At the number ten, they
+always made a knot on a piece of string, and then began again. In
+comparison with the compliment of the Rurik, (only twenty men,) my
+present crew must have appeared extremely numerous.</p>
+
+<p>A crowd of the islanders soon came on board, without the least
+hesitation or fear. Though very merry, and quite at home, they were all
+well-behaved and modest. Incessant laughter pealed from below, where
+these lovers of mirth had mingled with our sailors, in all sorts of
+tricks and jests; the different parties danced and sang alternately,
+each laughing heartily at the performances of the other. They exchanged
+embraces and presents; of the guests especially<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</a></span> not one was
+empty-handed: they had brought their finest fruit, and little specimens
+of their handiwork; and each, with unaffected cordiality, lavished the
+contents of his cornucopia on a chosen friend. The setting sun gave the
+signal for separation, and it was obeyed amidst mutual promises of
+meeting again on the morrow.</p>
+
+<p>Lagediak, after finishing his measurements, did not again move from my
+side. His desire of knowledge was boundless; nor could the explanations
+I was obliged to give upon the most insignificant articles satisfy his
+curiosity. On learning that we could stay only a few days at Otdia, he
+again became very sorrowful, and most earnestly pressed me to spend the
+remainder of my life here. He left nothing untried to procure my
+acquiescence in this wish: love, ambition, glory, were successively held
+out as lures: I should have the most beautiful woman of the islands for
+my wife,&mdash;should kill the tyrant and usurper Lamari, as he had killed
+his predecessor, and should reign in his stead Tamon of Radack. As I let
+him talk on without interruption, he supposed I should accede to his
+plans. In his joy over this offspring of his own<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[Pg 315]</a></span> imagination, he jumped
+about the cabin like a child, and, on quitting the ship, earnestly
+enjoined me to say nothing to Rarik of our project.</p>
+
+<p>Lagediak, on visiting me again the following morning, brought me roasted
+fish, bread-fruit, and fresh cocoa-nuts, for breakfast: he drank coffee
+with me, and appeared to think it not much amiss. He brought with him
+his son, about thirteen or fourteen years of age, to present to me. This
+interesting boy appeared to inherit the disposition of his amiable
+father. His intelligent countenance afforded a promise, which the
+modesty and propriety of his conduct confirmed: he might easily have
+been educated for our most refined society.</p>
+
+<p>Lagediak soon recurred to his yesterday's project of making me chief of
+Radack. He sketched the plan of its execution, and entered upon the
+further measures which would be requisite to give power and stability to
+the new government. We were first to sail to Aur and vanquish Lamari,
+and then to attack the hostile group of the Mediuro islands, the
+conquest of which would render me master of the whole chain of Radack.
+Animated by these valiant<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[Pg 316]</a></span> projects, he flourished his fist as if
+already in battle, till it encountered a tea-cup, which fell in a
+thousand fragments to the ground. His natural timidity suddenly banished
+the heroism into which his subject had wrought him: he feared he had
+done me an injury, and consequently incurred my displeasure. I
+re-assured him on this head, but gave him much pain by representing the
+impossibility of my remaining in Radack, as my duty called me elsewhere.
+After some minutes of silent consideration, he led his son to me, and
+begged I would take him with me to Russia. I was then obliged to explain
+to him that I should never return to Radack, and that if his son
+accompanied me, he must take leave of him for ever. This was too much
+for the father's heart; he embraced his son, and would no longer think
+of a separation. He was also overcome with sorrow at the idea of seeing
+me for the last time; and a little self-interest probably mingled in the
+melancholy look he cast upon a hatchet which I had given him, as he
+exclaimed&mdash;"I shall never get any iron again!"</p>
+
+<p>I now turned the conversation on the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">[Pg 317]</a></span>Mediuro, and expressed a wish to
+know how the campaign had prospered, which Lamari, when I was last here,
+was about to undertake against those islands. He understood me
+perfectly, and taxed to the utmost his powers of pantomime to give me an
+account of the war, in which he had himself been engaged.</p>
+
+<p>Lamari's fleet, as I understood my informant, consisted of forty
+vessels; and therefore, judging by the size of the boats here, the whole
+army could not be above four hundred strong, including the women, who,
+from the rear, lend assistance to the combatants by throwing stones at
+the enemy, and by assuming the surgeon's office. This force was
+collected from the whole Radack chain; the war was bloody, and lasted
+six whole days. Five of the enemy were slain, and Lamari gained a
+splendid victory with the loss of one man! The fleet returned
+triumphant, laden with cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, and pandanas. Kadu had
+especially distinguished himself: he was armed with a sabre and lance,
+and wore a white shirt, and wide trowsers, which formidable attire was
+completed by a red cap on his head. All the hatchets, above a hundred<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[Pg 318]</a></span>
+in number, which I had given to the Radackers, and which Lamari
+afterwards appropriated, were fastened on long poles and distributed
+among the best warriors; this gave the army of Lamari a great advantage;
+so that I might take credit to myself for the happy issue of the
+campaign.</p>
+
+<p>Lagediak informed me further that Lamari had also determined on an
+expedition to the Odia<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> group of islands, belonging to the Ralik
+chain. The inhabitants of these had heard something of the treasures
+which the Radackers had acquired by my visit, and their rapacity being
+excited, had made an attack on the Kawen group of the Radack chain,
+without the usual declaration of war, and thus taking the inhabitants by
+surprise, had beaten and plundered them, and returned home laden with
+booty, though the Kawen people had made a valorous resistance, and
+killed two of the Odians without losing a man themselves. This appeared
+to have occurred about a year before my arrival, and the vengeance of
+Lamari had<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">[Pg 319]</a></span> been hitherto delayed; the levying and provisioning an army
+being here a work of time. Radack is so thinly peopled that all the
+islands must send their quota of men, which, on account of the extension
+of the chain, cannot be very speedily performed. For a voyage to the
+Ralik chain and back, victualling for four weeks at least is necessary,
+as the return is against the trade-wind. The Mogan, which is principally
+used in these expeditions, is very nutritious, and the Radackers are
+very moderate, so that a small quantity suffices for their support,
+otherwise they could not provision their canoes for voyages of this
+length.</p>
+
+<p>I was surprised to find Lagediak perfectly secure of the success of this
+undertaking, and expressed my fears that his countrymen might possibly
+be worsted, but he continued sanguine,&mdash;for the hatchets with which his
+brethren were armed, the sword, and dread-inspiring costume of Kadu,
+were sources of confidence which could not be abated.</p>
+
+<p>During this conversation in the cabin, several islanders came on board,
+and the noise from below resembled that of the preceding day.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">[Pg 320]</a></span> Rarik had
+also arrived, decorated with fresh garlands of flowers, and had brought
+me some trifling presents. The generally-dreaded Langin, Tamon of
+Egmedio, presented himself to me this day, for the first time: he
+appeared glad to see me; but when on deck, the size of the ship, and the
+number of the crew, impressed him with so much alarm, that his very
+teeth chattered. This anguish attack continued some time, but was at
+length cured by our friendly deportment.</p>
+
+<p>Accompanied by Rarik and Lagediak, I rowed ashore, and found Messrs.
+Preus and Lenz already busy with the pendulum. They were perfectly
+satisfied with the natives, who had behaved very well, and, except by
+special permission to come nearer, had kept at the appointed distance
+from the tent. They usually sat in a circle round the place, where the
+observations were made, and gazed with wonder at the astronomer who had
+so much business with the sun, taking him no doubt for a conjuror.</p>
+
+<p>In the hours of recreation, we allowed them to come to the tent, and
+they always joyfully availed themselves of the permission, performing a
+thousand little services, which made them<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">[Pg 321]</a></span> appear really necessary to
+us, yet remaining invariably so modest, gentle, and friendly, that my
+company declared them to be, without exception, the most amiable people
+on earth.</p>
+
+<p>Rarik took me to his house, to witness another dramatic representation:
+the subject was the war on Mediuro. Women sang, or rather screamed, the
+deeds of the warriors; and the men in their dances endeavoured, by angry
+gestures and brandishing their lances, to describe the valour of the
+combatants. I expressed to Rarik my wish to know more of their method of
+warfare; he and Lagediak in consequence assembled two troops, which they
+opposed to each other at a short distance, as hostile armies; the first
+rank, in both, consisting of men, and the second of women. The former
+were armed with sticks instead of lances, the latter had their baskets
+filled with pandana seeds for stones, and their hair, instead of being
+as usual, tastefully bound up, hung dishevelled and wild about their
+heads, giving them the appearance of maniacs. Rarik placed himself at
+the head of one troop, and Lagediak of the other: both gave the signal
+for attack, by blowing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">[Pg 322]</a></span> their muscle horns. The adverse forces
+approached; but instead of the battle began a comic dance, in which the
+two armies emulated each other in grimaces, furious gesticulations, and
+a distortion of the eyes, which left only the whites visible, while the
+women shrieked a war-song, which, if their opponents had been lovers of
+harmony, would assuredly have put them to flight. The leaders on each
+side took no share in these violent exertions, but stood still,
+animating their troops by the tones of the muscle horn. When exhausted
+by these efforts, the horns were silent, and the armies separated by
+mutual consent, looking on while some of the most valiant from each side
+came forward to challenge with threats and abuse a champion of the enemy
+to single combat. This was represented by dancing and songs, and
+occasional movements with the hand, as if to throw the lance, which the
+antagonist sought to avoid by dexterously springing aside. The
+respective armies and their leaders animated the courage of their
+warriors by battle-songs, till the horns were blown again; the armies
+once more slowly approached each other; the champions retired<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">[Pg 323]</a></span> into
+their ranks, and the battle was renewed with a prodigious noise; spears
+waved in the air; pandana seed flew from the delicate hands of the
+female warriors, over the heads of their husbands, upon the enemy, but
+the armies never came near enough to be really engaged. The leaders
+remained in front loudly blowing their horns, and sometimes giving
+commands. At length, by accident or design, one of Lagediak's men fell;
+the battle was now over, the victory decided, and the signal given for
+drawing off the forces. Both armies were so exhausted, that they threw
+themselves on the grass, and amidst laughing and merriment, gave
+themselves up to repose.</p>
+
+<p>A large sailing-boat now put ashore, and an old man with white hair and
+beard was lifted from it; his shrivelled skin hung loosely over his
+emaciated form, and his weakness was so extreme, that he could only
+approach us by crawling on his hands and feet: Rarik and Lagediak went
+to meet and welcome him. It was my old acquaintance, Langediu, Tamon of
+Ormed. When our frigate lay at anchor before his island, he had not
+ventured, he said, to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">[Pg 324]</a></span> visit us, not knowing whether we were friends or
+foes; but when he heard that Totabu was arrived, he determined to make
+an effort to see me once more before his death. The old man crawled up
+to me and embraced me, shedding tears of joy; he talked a great deal,
+and spoke of Kadu being with Lamari in Aur.</p>
+
+<p>On my former visit, the traces of old age were scarcely perceptible in
+Langediu; but in the intervening eight years they had increased rapidly;
+still, although his body was so weak that he could only crawl on
+all-fours, he retained all the faculties of his mind, all his original
+vivacity and good-humour, and his facetious remarks excited the
+merriment of the whole assembly. I have in many instances observed that
+at Radack, old age brings with it no particular disease, and that the
+mind remains unimpaired till its mortal covering sinks into the grave. A
+fine climate, moderate labour, and a vegetable diet, probably all
+contribute to produce this effect.</p>
+
+<p>Langediu having intimated his wish to see the Oa ellip, I immediately
+rowed in my boat to the ship, followed by him in his Oa warro,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">[Pg 325]</a></span> or war
+canoe: he was much pleased with the vessel, and all that he saw, and not
+less so with the little presents he received; but a circumstance
+occurred that caused the honourable old man some chagrin: one of his
+attendants having concluded a friendship with the cook, took advantage
+of it to secrete a knife in his canoe; the cook missed the knife, and
+his suspicions immediately fell on his friend. His person and canoe were
+searched, and on the discovery of the stolen treasure the criminal
+confessed his fault. He trembled exceedingly, probably remembering the
+flogging one of his countrymen received on board the Rurik for a similar
+offence. As my stay was this time to be so short, I considered the
+flogging superfluous, and magnanimously forgave him, with a reproof, and
+an admonition never to steal again. Poor old Langediu was much hurt. He
+crawled about the ship in an agitated manner, exclaiming, <i>Kabuderih emo
+aidarah</i> (stealing not good), severely reprimanded, and threatened the
+offender,&mdash;showed him all the presents received from us, observing how
+much we must be shocked to be robbed, notwithstanding all our<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">[Pg 326]</a></span>
+generosity. He then led him to the guns, made him remark their great
+number, and said, <i>Manih Emich</i>, <i>manih ni</i>, <i>ma</i>, (kill the island,
+kill the cocoa-trees, bread-fruit trees). Probably the old man had
+learned from Kadu the effect the guns would produce. After much chafing
+and scolding, he ordered the offender back into the canoe, and forbade
+him to come again on board:&mdash;not a word did the thief utter the whole
+time, and instantly obeyed the order to quit the vessel, but the old
+master could not be pacified. He frequently repeated, "<i>Kabuderih emo
+aidarah</i>," and his visit afforded him no more pleasure. He took an early
+leave of us, requesting that we would come to him on his island.</p>
+
+<p>The face of the thief appeared familiar to me; and Lagediak, in answer
+to my inquiries, informed me, laughing, that this was the brother of the
+man who had been beaten on board the Rurik. The propensity to theft
+appears to be a family failing. No other Radacker during our stay
+attempted to purloin the smallest trifle.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon, a large boat sailed through<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">[Pg 327]</a></span> the Lagediak Straits into
+the basin. I flattered myself with the arrival of some of my friends
+from Aur, perhaps Kadu himself; but it was the gay Labugar from Eregub,
+brought hither by curiosity, having seen us sail past his island.</p>
+
+<p>When he heard who the strangers were, he immediately came to the ship.
+His joy at seeing me again was very great; but he regretted much that
+his friend Timaro, with whom he had exchanged names, was not of our
+company. The spirits of Labugar had lost during eight years none of
+their sprightliness; but his face looked much older, and his hair had
+become grey.</p>
+
+<p>The fine weather induced me on the 3rd of May to visit Langediu on the
+island of Ormed; he received me with the greatest joy, and offered me
+his most costly treasures as presents. The children, grand-children, and
+great-grand-children of the good old man assembled round his house, and
+represented a dramatic piece for my amusement, in which Langediu himself
+played a principal part, and astonished me by the animation of his
+action and singing. As this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">[Pg 328]</a></span> was one of the best representations I have
+seen in Radack, I will describe it, in the hope that my readers also
+will not be uninterested in it.</p>
+
+<p>The number of the <i>dramatis person&aelig;</i> was twenty-six, thirteen men and
+thirteen women, who seated themselves in the following order on a spot
+of smooth turf. Ten men sat in a semicircle, and opposite to them ten
+women in a semicircle also, so that by uniting the points, an entire
+circle would have been formed, but a space of about six feet was left at
+both ends, in each of which sat an old woman provided with a drum. This
+drum, made of the hollow trunk of a tree, is about three feet long, six
+inches in diameter at each end, narrowed like an hour-glass, to half
+that thickness in the middle. Both ends are covered with the skin of the
+shark: it is held under the arm, and struck with the palm of the hand.
+In the middle of the circle, old Langediu took his station with a
+handsome young woman, sitting back to back. The whole party were
+elegantly adorned about the head, and the females about the body also,
+with garlands of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_329" id="Page_329">[Pg 329]</a></span> flowers. Outside the circle stood two men with muscle
+horns. The hollow tones of these horns are the signal for a chorus
+performed by the whole company, with violent movements of the arms and
+gesticulations meant to be in consonance with the words. When this
+ceased, a duet from the pair in the middle was accompanied by the drums
+and horns only; Langediu fully equalling his young companion in
+animation. The chorus then began again, and this alternation was
+repeated several times, till the young songstress whose motions had been
+growing more and more vehement, suddenly fell down as dead. Langediu's
+song then became lower and more plaintive: he bent over the body, and
+seemed to express the deepest sorrow; the whole circle joined in his
+lamentations, and the play concluded.</p>
+
+<p>Deficient as was my knowledge of the language, I was still able clearly
+to understand the subject of this tragedy, which represented a marriage
+ceremony. The young girl was forced to accept of a husband whom she did
+not love, and preferred death to such an union. Perhaps<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330">[Pg 330]</a></span> the reason of
+old Langediu's playing the part of the lover might be, to give more
+probability to the young bride's objections and resolution.</p>
+
+<p>The young females assembled here, among whom the deceased bride of
+Langediu soon reappeared, fresh and lively as ever, reminded me of
+Kadu's assertion, that the women of Ormed were the handsomest in Radack.
+Some of them were really very attractive, and their flowery adornments
+extremely becoming. These people have more taste than any other of the
+South Sea islanders; and the manner in which the women dress their hair,
+and decorate it with flowers, would have a beautiful effect even in an
+European ball-room. When the actors had recovered from the fatigue of
+their performance, dinner, which some of the females had been long
+preparing in the hut, was served to us. Only a few of the persons
+assembled enjoyed the honour of partaking our meal. Some of these were
+females. The ground of Langediu's hut was covered with matting, on which
+we sat, and the provisions were placed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">[Pg 331]</a></span> on clean cocoa-leaves in the
+middle. Every one had a cocoa-leaf for a plate. Upon the dishes were
+laid wooden spoons, with which the guests helped themselves,&mdash;an
+improvement since my former visit to Radack, when their mode was to help
+themselves from the dish with their hands. Langediu remarked, that the
+order of his table pleased me, and said <i>Mamuan Russia mogai</i> (the
+Russians eat so). I rejoiced in the increased civilization denoted by
+this more becoming mode of eating; probably introduced by Kadu, who had
+seen it during his stay among us. I enjoyed a still greater pleasure,
+when after the first course of baked and bread-fruits, came one of yams,
+which I had brought hither from the Sandwich Islands. At Otdia, I had
+been told that Lamari had carried away to Aur all the plants I had left
+behind. I was therefore much surprised at the sight of the yams. They
+perfectly supply the place of our potatoes, are wholesome and pleasant,
+and, if cultivated with moderate industry, are a certain resource
+against famine. Langediu told me, that Kadu had planted the yams on
+Ormed,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">[Pg 332]</a></span> and after dinner showed me a pretty large field very well
+stocked with them.</p>
+
+<p>The delightful feelings with which I surveyed the new plantation may be
+imagined, when it is recollected, that these poor islanders, from want
+of means of subsistence, are compelled, assuredly with heavy hearts, to
+murder their own offspring, and that this yam alone is sufficient to
+remove so horrible a necessity. I might joyfully affirm, that through my
+instrumentality the distressed mother need no longer look forward to the
+birth of her third or fourth child with the dreadful consciousness that
+she endured all her pain only to deliver a sacrifice to the hand of the
+murderer. When she should clasp her child to her breast, and see her
+husband look on it with a father's tenderness, they might both remember
+"Totabu," and the beneficent plants which he had given them. I beg
+pardon for this digression, and return to our dinner.</p>
+
+<p>After the yams, a number of dishes were produced, prepared from the
+powdered cocoa-wood, which is made with water into a thick paste, and
+then baked in small cakes: it has no taste at all, and cannot be very
+nutritious. A dessert of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">[Pg 333]</a></span> Mogan and Pandana juice concluded the repast.
+The drink was cocoa-milk, sucked from a small hole made in the nut. The
+conversation, in which the females, who are treated extremely well, took
+part, was very lively, but perfectly decorous. I wished to understand
+more of it: from single words, I inferred that they were speaking of the
+ship and of the dramatic entertainment, and should have been glad to
+have contributed my share to the general amusement. After I had
+delighted the host and the amiable company by presents of hatchets,
+knives, scissors, and necklaces, which latter were by no means in as
+great estimation here as on the Navigators' Islands, I took my leave,
+and returned early in the evening to the ship.</p>
+
+<p>Time passed very quickly at Otdia, as it usually does when pleasantly
+spent; and, to the great sorrow of our friends, the day of our departure
+drew near. On Sunday the sailors were allowed to amuse themselves on
+shore; and as there were some musicians among them, they carried their
+instruments with them, to take leave of the islanders with a brilliant
+musical festival. The jubilee that ensued<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">[Pg 334]</a></span> exceeds all description. The
+whole population of Otdia and the neighbouring islands assembled round
+our tent, and the music acted upon them like Huon's horn in Oberon. They
+danced and leaped about, sometimes hurrying the sailors into similar
+antics, and forming altogether a scene which would have provoked the
+most solemn philosopher to laughter. I was much pleased with observing
+the cordial good-will that subsisted between the natives and my crew,
+and with the reflection that this second visit would also leave on the
+minds of the Radackers an impression favourable to white men.</p>
+
+<p>The females looked on at a distance during these gambols. Decorum did
+not allow them to mingle in them, and also restrained them from ever
+visiting the ship.</p>
+
+<p>Among the groups I observed a crowd of children assembled round an
+elderly sailor, who was amusing and caressing them. He had been on duty
+outside the tent ever since our arrival at the islands; and as the
+Russians are particularly fond of children, these little creatures had
+grown quite sociable with him. A pretty<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">[Pg 335]</a></span> lively little girl appeared his
+especial favourite. She was allowed to play him all kinds of tricks,
+without being reproved; and even when she pulled him by the hair, he
+pulled again, and seemed as much entertained as she was.</p>
+
+<p>When the islanders learned the day fixed for our departure, they visited
+us on board in greater numbers than ever, always bringing presents with
+them. They spoke of parting with great sorrow, and earnestly pressed us
+to return soon. With respect to the presents we had recently made them,
+they expressed their fears that Lamari would again plunder them, when he
+should learn that we had been there. I therefore commissioned Lagediak,
+in the presence of a great number of islanders, to inform Lamari, from
+me, that if he should ever presume to plunder the possessor of the
+smallest article presented by us, whenever white men should again visit
+Radack, they would, without fail, take signal and severe vengeance upon
+him. He understood me, and promised to execute my commission.</p>
+
+<p>Lagediak now seldom left me; and his grief at our approaching separation
+was really affecting.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">[Pg 336]</a></span> On the morning of the appointed day, the 6th of
+May, when we had begun to weigh anchor, he came in great haste in a
+large canoe, and brought a number of young cocoa-plants. On my inquiring
+for what purpose he intended them, he answered, that he wished me to
+plant them in Russia, in remembrance of him. I then recollected his
+having once asked me if cocoa-trees grew in Russia, and that I had of
+course replied in the negative. He had then turned the conversation on
+some other subject, and I thought no more of it. He had however resolved
+on enriching my country with this fine fruit, and had reserved for the
+day of our parting this last proof of his regard. I explained to him
+that it was far too cold in Russia for the cocoa-trees to flourish, and
+that for that reason I was unwilling to rob him of his plants. He
+mourned much over the failure of his kind intentions, packed up his
+plants again, and when he saw our sails spread and our departure
+inevitable, took leave of us like a child that is forcibly separated
+from beloved parents. To the rest of our friends we had bidden farewell
+the evening before.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">[Pg 337]</a></span></p><p>We sailed through the Schischmaref straits, and then between the Otdia
+and Aur groups, whence we steered directly to the group Ligiep, in order
+to lay down correctly its eastern coasts, for which, in my former
+voyage, circumstances had been unfavourable. On the following day we
+reached the southern edge of this group, and sailed near enough to see
+from thence clear over to the northern. We then proceeded westward,
+keeping always near enough to the islands to distinguish objects upon
+them with the naked eye. I now plainly perceived that the course I had
+taken in the Rurik had prevented my seeing the whole of this group; and
+the result is, that it appears on the accompanying map, according to our
+present correct survey, half as large again as I had before represented
+it.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of Ligiep, on seeing the ship, directly put out to sea
+from between the reefs, in a crowd of sailing canoes, to follow us, but
+were too timid to come within cannon-shot. We lay-to, when they also
+took in their sails, but contented themselves with contemplating us from
+a safe distance; and as the favourable<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">[Pg 338]</a></span> weather would not permit us to
+waste more time, we continued our voyage without making farther attempts
+to entice them to the ship.</p>
+
+<p>On the north-west, of the group Ligiep we found several larger islands,
+which, being covered with fine cocoa-trees, induced the supposition that
+they may be more thickly peopled.</p>
+
+<p>We also found, as is shown upon the map, two broad entrances to the
+inland sea round which this group is scattered, which, after a very
+accurate examination, appeared perfectly safe and convenient for the
+passage of the largest ship of the line, since, according to their
+direction, it is possible, by help of the trade-wind, to sail in and out
+without tacking. There seems no doubt that the interior of this group
+offers the best anchorage; and should any navigator wish to put into
+Radack, I recommend this harbour to him as the most commodious.</p>
+
+<p>At noon the north-west point of the Ligiep group lay about a mile off us
+due east, and we found by a close observation the latitude to be 10&deg; 3'
+40" North, and the longitude 190&deg; 58' 3".</p>
+
+<p>Directly after this observation, I had all sail<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_339" id="Page_339">[Pg 339]</a></span> set, and steered with a
+fresh wind to the north-west, in the hope of falling in with the group
+Ralik.</p>
+
+<p>As darkness came on, we again took in most of the sails, and endeavoured
+to keep the vessel during the night as much as possible on the same
+spot. With break of day we continued our voyage; but the weather,
+hitherto so fine, now became very gloomy. The heavy rain permitted us
+only to see to a short distance; and as no hope of improvement appeared,
+I gave up the idea of visiting Ralik, and bent my course direct for
+Kamtschatka.</p>
+
+<p>We often thought and conversed upon the interesting inhabitants of
+Radack, of whom we had for ever taken leave. Since this chain lies far
+out of the course usually pursued by navigators in the South Sea, it
+will not soon be visited again, and may in course of time be entirely
+forgotten. Whether this will be for their benefit or their misfortune,
+he who rules the destinies of man can alone foresee.</p>
+
+<p>It is certain that the Radack chain has been peopled much later than
+most of the South Sea<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">[Pg 340]</a></span> islands; but whence, and at what period, is quite
+unknown. If a conjecture may be hazarded, it would be, that the
+inhabitants owe their origin to the Corolinas. They have no tradition on
+the subject. Their language is quite different from all the Polynesian
+dialects, and appears of more recent formation. Whence have these people
+derived characters so much superior to those of other South Sea
+islanders, many of whom, enjoying as fine a climate, and a more
+bountiful soil, resemble beasts of prey? I attribute this in some
+measure to the superior purity of manners among the females. Experience
+teaches us, that wherever that sex is held in its due estimation, morals
+are proportionably refined.</p>
+
+<p>To be thus esteemed, woman must resist the attacks of licentiousness.
+When she associates virtue with her other attractions, she will soon
+obtain an influence over the most savage of the other sex; and thus have
+the females of Radack contributed to form the amiable character of their
+countrymen.</p>
+
+<p>Other fortunate circumstances may have combined<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">[Pg 341]</a></span> with this, to which the
+ante-christian Tahaitians were certainly not indebted. It is justice,
+however, to assert here, that, upon perfect conviction, I give a decided
+preference to the Radackers over the inhabitants of Tahaiti.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><br />
+END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
+</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+<small>LONDON:<br />
+PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY,<br />
+Dorset Street, Fleet Street.<br />
+</small></p>
+
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Namely English miles, of which sixty go to a degree, and
+four to a German mile. Whenever, in this Voyage, miles are mentioned,
+English miles are to be understood.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> The longitude is always calculated from Greenwich, in this
+work.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> "Formidable is man in his misguided zeal."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> The measurement given is two Russian wersts, of which one
+hundred and four and a half make a degree, or, as nearly as possible,
+one and a half make an English mile. The exact circumference therefore
+of the lake, as given, is one mile and one third.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Upon the maps, Lion&eacute; and Fanfoun&eacute;; the termination in <i>h</i>
+denotes, in the Polynesian language, the accent upon the last syllable;
+as in the Tahaitian name Pomareh.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> This group must not be confounded with <i>Otdia</i> where we
+were at this time.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A New Voyage Round the World in the
+Years 1823, 24, 25, and 26. Vol. 1, by Otto von Kotzebue
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A New Voyage Round the World in the Years
+1823, 24, 25, and 26. Vol. 1, by Otto von Kotzebue
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A New Voyage Round the World in the Years 1823, 24, 25, and 26. Vol. 1
+
+Author: Otto von Kotzebue
+
+Release Date: June 4, 2008 [EBook #25693]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NEW VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD VOL 1 ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Julia Miller, Greg Bergquist and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This
+book was produced from scanned images of public domain
+material from the Google Print project.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _S. Freeman, Sc._
+
+RECEPTION OF CAPTAIN KOTZEBUE AT THE ISLAND OF OTDIA]
+
+
+
+
+  A
+
+  NEW VOYAGE
+
+  ROUND
+
+  THE WORLD,
+
+  IN THE YEARS 1823, 24, 25, AND 26.
+
+
+  BY OTTO VON KOTZEBUE,
+
+  POST CAPTAIN IN THE RUSSIAN IMPERIAL NAVY.
+
+
+  IN TWO VOLUMES.
+
+  VOL. I.
+
+
+  LONDON:
+
+  HENRY COLBURN AND RICHARD BENTLEY,
+  NEW BURLINGTON STREET.
+  1830.
+
+
+
+
+  LONDON:
+
+  PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY,
+  Dorset Street, Fleet Street.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+The flattering requisitions of those readers who found amusement in the
+narrative of my former voyage, independently of its scientific details,
+form an incentive to my present publication. All mere nautical minutiae,
+which might be deemed tedious, with the exception of such as were
+indispensable, have been omitted. Various contingencies have delayed the
+appearance of these Volumes; but I still hope they will not have
+altogether lost the charm of novelty.
+
+With respect to my style, I rely upon the favour formerly shewn me.
+Devoted from my earliest youth to the sea-service, I have had no leisure
+for cultivating the art of authorship.
+
+
+
+
+  TO HIS EXCELLENCY
+  ADMIRAL VON KRUSENSTERN,
+
+  THE FIRST RUSSIAN CIRCUMNAVIGATOR;
+
+  WHOSE NAME WILL BE IMMORTALIZED BY HIS ACTIVE
+  AND BENEFICIAL PATRONAGE OF THE
+  NAUTICAL SCIENCE:
+
+  TO MY PATERNAL FRIEND,
+
+  WHOM, WHILE STILL A BOY, I ACCOMPANIED ON
+  HIS CELEBRATED EXPEDITION, AND UNDER
+  WHOSE AUSPICES I RECEIVED MY EARLY
+  EDUCATION AS A SEAMAN;
+
+  THESE VOLUMES
+  ARE DEDICATED WITH THE MOST AFFECTIONATE
+  RESPECT.
+
+
+
+
+  CONTENTS
+
+  OF
+
+  THE FIRST VOLUME.
+
+                                                              Page.
+
+  INTRODUCTION                                                    1
+
+  VOYAGE TO BRAZIL                                                5
+
+  RIO-JANEIRO                                                    27
+
+  DOUBLING OF CAPE HORN, AND RESIDENCE IN CHILI                  57
+
+  THE DANGEROUS ARCHIPELAGO                                     101
+
+  O TAHAITI                                                     119
+
+  PITCAIRN ISLAND                                               225
+
+  NAVIGATORS' ISLANDS                                           251
+
+  RADACK ISLANDS                                                289
+
+
+
+
+  LIST OF PLATES.
+
+                                                              Page.
+
+  Reception of Captain Kotzebue at the Island of Otdia,
+                                           To face Title of Vol. I.
+
+  Plan of Mattaway Bay and Village                              200
+
+  Chart of the Navigators' Islands                              250
+
+  Chart of the Islands of Radak and Ralik                       288
+
+  Nomahanna, Queen of the Sandwich Islands,
+                                          To face Title of Vol. II.
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+In the month of March of the year 1823, I was appointed by his Imperial
+Majesty Alexander the First, of glorious memory, to the command of a
+ship, at that time unfinished, but named the Predpriatie (the
+Enterprise). She had been at first destined for a voyage purely
+scientific, but circumstances having occurred which rendered it
+necessary to change the object of the expedition, I was ordered to take
+in at Kronstadt a cargo to Kamtschatka, and to sail from the latter
+place to the north-west coast of America, in order to protect the
+Russian American Company from the smuggling carried on there by foreign
+traders. On this station my ship was to remain for one year, and then,
+being relieved by another, to return to Kronstadt. The course to be
+followed, both in going and returning, was left entirely to my own
+discretion.
+
+On the first of May, the ship, whose Russian name, Predpriatie, I shall
+for the future omit, was declared complete. She was the first vessel
+built in Russia under a roof, (a very excellent plan,) was the size of a
+frigate of a middling rank, and, that she might not be unnecessarily
+burdened, was provided with only twenty-four six-pounders.
+
+My crew consisted of Lieutenants Kordinkoff, Korsakoff, Bordoschewitsch,
+and Pfeifer; the Midshipmen Gekimoff, Alexander von Moller, Golowin,
+Count Heiden, Tschekin, Murawieff, Wukotitsch, and Paul von Moller; the
+Mates, Grigorieff, Gekimoff, and Simokoff, eight petty officers, and one
+hundred and fifteen sailors. We were accompanied by Professors
+Eschscholz and Lenz as Naturalists; Messrs. Preus and Hoffman as
+Astronomer and Mineralogist; and Messrs. Victor and von Siegwald as
+Chaplain and Physician; so that, in all, we reckoned one hundred and
+forty-five persons.
+
+We were richly stored with astronomical and other scientific
+instruments: we possessed two pendulum apparatus, and a theodolite made
+expressly for our expedition by the celebrated Reichenbach. This
+valuable instrument was executed with wonderful precision, and was of
+the greatest use in our astronomical observations on shore.
+
+In June the ship arrived at Kronstadt, and on the 14th of July (old
+style, according to which all reckonings will be made in this voyage,)
+she lay in the harbour fully equipped and ready to sail. On that day the
+cannon of the fortress and of the fleet in the roads announced the
+arrival of the Emperor, whom we had the pleasure of receiving on board
+our vessel.
+
+His Majesty, after a close examination of the ship, honoured us by the
+assurance of his imperial satisfaction; the sailors received a sum of
+money, and I and my officers a written expression of thanks.
+
+With the gracious cordiality peculiar to him, the amiable monarch wished
+us a happy voyage, and retired followed by our enthusiastic blessings.
+
+We did not then anticipate that we had seen him for the last time. On
+our return, his lofty spirit had ascended to the regions of bliss: from
+whence he looks down on his beloved brother, rejoicing to be even
+surpassed by him in the virtues of a sovereign.
+
+
+
+
+VOYAGE TO BRAZIL.
+
+
+
+
+VOYAGE TO BRAZIL.
+
+
+We remained in the roads of Kronstadt till the 28th of July, when, after
+a painful parting from a beloved and affectionate wife, the wind proving
+favourable, I gave the order to weigh anchor.
+
+The whole crew was in high spirits, and full of hope: the task of
+weighing anchor and setting sail was executed with alertness and
+rapidity; and as the ship began her course, cutting the foaming billows,
+the men joyfully embraced each other, and with loud huzzas expressed
+their hearty wishes for the success of our undertaking. To me this scene
+was highly gratifying. Such a disposition in a crew towards an
+enterprise from which toils and dangers must be anticipated, afforded a
+satisfactory presumption that their courage and spirits would not fail
+when they should be really called into exercise. With a good ship and a
+cheerful crew the success of a voyage is almost certain. We fired a
+salute of seven guns, in reply to the farewell from the fortress of
+Kronstadt, and, the wind blowing fresh, soon lost sight of its towers.
+
+As far as Gothland all went well, and nothing disturbed the general
+cheerfulness; but here a sudden storm from the west attacked us so
+unexpectedly as scarcely to give time for the necessary precautions.
+Tossed to and fro by the swelling and boisterous waves, I was not, I
+must confess, altogether free from anxiety.
+
+With a new and untried ship, and men somewhat out of practice, a first
+storm is naturally attended by many causes of disquiet not afterwards so
+seriously felt. In the present instance, however, these untoward
+circumstances were rather productive of the ludicrous than the terrific;
+and whatever might be my solicitude as commander, I experienced but
+little sympathy from my officers. The strength and extent of the motion
+to which we were about to be exposed had not been duly estimated, and
+the movable articles in the cabins were generally ill secured. This was
+particularly the case in the state-cabin, occupied by twenty persons:
+not a table or a chair would remain in its place; every thing rolling
+about in its own stupid way, in defiance of all rule and order. The
+frolicsome young officers were delighted with the confusion; and even
+our seasick men of science could not refrain from laughter when a
+well-fed pig, which, disturbed by the inconvenience, had taken refuge on
+the hatchway, ventured from thence to intrude itself among them by a
+spring through the open window, and looked around in pitiable amazement
+on finding that, amidst the general clamour, repose was no more
+attainable in a state-cabin than in its own humble abode. I was
+meanwhile occupied in narrowly observing the vessel that was to bear us
+through so many and long-enduring difficulties. Amidst the conflict of
+the elements, a commander becomes acquainted with his ship, as in the
+storms of life we learn duly to appreciate our friends. I weighed the
+defects of mine against its good qualities, and rejoiced that the
+latter had greatly the preponderance. She was a friend on whom I might
+rely in case of need. Such a conviction is necessary to the captain:
+through it alone can his actions acquire the decision and certainty so
+indispensable in time of danger, and so essential to success. In the
+course of four-and-twenty hours the storm abated; a favourable wind
+again swelled our sails, and we enjoyed it doubly after the little
+troubles we had undergone. At daybreak on the 8th of August we left the
+island of Bornholm, and found ourselves surrounded by a Russian fleet
+cruising under the command of Admiral Crown. This meeting with our
+countrymen was an agreeable surprise to us: they could carry to our
+beloved homes the assurance, that thus far at least our voyage had been
+prosperous. We saluted the Admiral with nine guns, received a similar
+number in return, and continued our course with full sails.
+
+On the 10th of August we anchored opposite the friendly capital of
+Denmark, where we received on board the theodolite, which had been
+prepared for us at Munich by Reichenbach, and sent hither. Before the
+sun appeared above the horizon on the 12th, we were again under sail,
+with a good wind and a tranquil sea. The sail along the Danish coast was
+interesting from its beautiful prospects, and numerous buildings
+illumined by the morning sun.
+
+We passed the Sound the same day, and entered the Categat. Here we were
+visited in the night by another violent storm. The sky, pealing with
+incessant thunder, hung heavy and black above us, and spread a fearful
+darkness over the sea, broken only by tremendous flashes of lightning.
+The electric fluid, in large masses of fire, threatened us momentarily
+with destruction; but thanks be to the strong attractive power of the
+sea, which forms so good a conductor for ships,--without it we had been
+lost! In the North Sea our voyage was tedious, from the continuance of
+contrary winds; and in the English Channel dangerous, from the
+uninterrupted fog. We however reached Portsmouth roads in safety on the
+25th of August.
+
+Since it was my intention to double Cape Horn in the best season, namely
+January or February, it was necessary to lose no time in England. I
+therefore hastened to London, and resisting all the allurements offered
+by the magnificence of the capital, immediately procured my charts,
+chronometers, and astronomical instruments, and returned on board my
+ship on the 2nd of September, to be in waiting for the first fair wind.
+The wind however chose, as it often does, to put our patience to the
+proof. Its perverseness detained us in the roads till the 6th; and
+though a temporary change then enabled us to sail, we had scarcely
+reached Portland point when a strong gale again set in directly in our
+teeth.
+
+The English Channel, on account of its numerous shallows and strong
+irregular currents, is at all times dangerous: vessels overtaken there
+by storms during the night are in imminent peril of wreck, and thus
+every year are great numbers lost.
+
+I myself, on my former voyage in the Rurik, should have infallibly
+suffered this fate, had the day dawned only half an hour later. Warned
+therefore by experience, I resolved not to trust to the chance of the
+night; and fortunately our English pilot, from whom we had not yet
+parted, was of the same opinion.--This man, who had grown grey in his
+employment, and was perfectly acquainted with these waters, advised our
+immediate return to Portsmouth, and that every effort should be made to
+reach it before sunset. I therefore had the ship put about, and setting
+as much sail as the violence of the wind would allow, we fled towards
+our place of refuge, the storm continually increasing. Although we ran
+pretty quick, we had scarcely got half-way back, before it became so
+foggy and dark, that the land, which had hitherto been our guide, was no
+longer discernible. We could not see three hundred fathoms from the
+ship. The change in our pilot's countenance showed that our situation
+had become critical. The little, stout, and hitherto phlegmatic fellow
+became suddenly animated by a new spirit. His black eyes lightened; he
+uttered several times the well-known English oath which Figaro declares
+to be "le fond de la langue," rubbed his bands violently together, and
+at length exclaimed, "Captain! I should like a glass of grog--Devil take
+me if I don't bring you safe into Portsmouth yet!" His wish was of
+course instantly complied with. Strengthened and full of courage, he
+seized the helm, and our destiny depended on his skill.
+
+It was now barely possible to reach Portsmouth with daylight by taking
+the shortest way through the Needles, a narrow strait between the Isle
+of Wight and the mainland, full of shallows, where even in clear weather
+a good pilot is necessary. The sun was already near setting, when an
+anxious cry from the watch announced the neighbourhood of land, and in
+the same instant we all perceived, at about a hundred fathoms' distance,
+a high fog-enveloped rock, against which the breakers raged furiously.
+
+Our pilot recognised it for the western point of the Isle of Wight at
+the entrance of the Needles, and the danger we were in only animated his
+spirits. He seized the helm with both hands, and guiding it with
+admirable dexterity, the ship flew, amidst the storm, through the narrow
+and winding channels to which the shallows confined it, often so close
+upon the impending rocks, that it seemed scarcely possible to pass them
+without a fatal collision.
+
+A small vessel that had sailed with us for some time at this moment
+struck, and was instantly swallowed by the waves without a possibility
+of saving her. This terrible sight, and the consciousness that the next
+moment might involve us in a similar fate, made every one on board gaze
+in silent anxiety on the direction we were taking: even the pilot said
+not a word.
+
+The twilight had nearly given way to total darkness when we reached
+Portsmouth roads; the joy with which we hailed this haven of safety, and
+our mutual congratulations on our preservation, may be easily imagined:
+our pilot now fell back into his former phlegm, and seating himself with
+a glass of grog by the fireside, received our thanks and praises with
+equal indifference.
+
+This equinoctial storm raged itself out during the night, and the first
+rays of the sun again brought us fine weather and a fair wind, which
+enabled us once more to quit the English harbour. In no situation are
+the vicissitudes so striking as those experienced at sea. The wind,
+which had so lately attacked us with irresistible fierceness, was now
+become too gentle, and we were detained nine days in the Channel by
+calms, before we could reach the Atlantic Ocean.
+
+Here a fresh north wind occasioned near our track the appearance called
+a water-spout; which consists of a three-cornered mass of foaming water,
+with the point towards the sea, and the broad upper surface covered with
+a black cloud.--We now held a southerly course, and after encountering
+much rough weather, on the 22nd of September reached the parallel of
+Lisbon, where we enjoyed the warmer temperature, and congratulated
+ourselves on having left behind us the region of storms. We steered
+straight for the island of Teneriffe, where we intended providing
+ourselves with wine. A fresh trade-wind carried us rapidly and smoothly
+forward; the whole crew was in fine health and cheered by one of the
+most beautiful mornings of this climate, when our pleasure in the near
+prospect of a residence on this charming island was most painfully
+interrupted by the accident of a sailor falling overboard. The rapidity
+with which we were driving before the wind frustrated all our efforts to
+save him, and the poor fellow met his death in the waves. Our
+cheerfulness was now perfectly destroyed; and my regret for the accident
+was increased by the fear of the evil impression it might make on the
+minds of the other men.--Sailors are seldom free from superstition, and
+if mine should consider this misfortune as a bad omen, it might become
+such in reality by casting down the spirits so essential in a long and
+perhaps dangerous voyage. A crew tormenting itself with idle fears will
+never lend that ready obedience to a commander which is necessary for
+its own preservation. The messmates of the unfortunate man continued to
+gaze mournfully towards the spot where he had sunk, till the sight of
+land, as we sailed about noon past the small rocky island of Salvages,
+seemed to divert their thoughts from the occurrence; their former
+cheerfulness gradually returned, and my apprehensions subsided.
+
+This evening the island of Teneriffe became perceptible amidst the mist
+and clouds which veiled its heights. During the night we reached the
+high black rocks of lava which form its northern points; and at break of
+day I determined to tack, in order to run into Santa Cruz, the only
+place in the island where ships can lie at anchor.
+
+The night was stormy, and the high land occasioned violent gusts of wind
+from various directions. Towards morning the weather improved, but we
+found that the current had carried us twenty miles to the south-east.[1]
+These strong currents are common here in all seasons, and, to vessels
+not aware of them, may in dark nights produce injurious consequences.
+Having now passed the northern promontory, we steered southward for the
+roads of Santa Cruz. The shore here, consisting of high, steep masses of
+lava, presents a picturesque but desolate and sterile landscape, amidst
+which the eye seeks in vain for some spot capable of producing the rich
+wine of Teneriffe. Upon a point of rock about a thousand feet above the
+level of the sea, we saw a telegraph in full activity, probably
+announcing our arrival. The town next came in sight, and with its
+numerous churches, convents, and handsome houses, rising in an
+amphitheatre up the side of a mountain, would have offered a noble and
+pleasing prospect to eyes accustomed to the monotony of a sea view, but
+that the majestic Peak, that giant among mountains, rearing in the
+background its snow-crowned head 13,278 feet above the level of the sea,
+now stood clear and cloudless before us, enchaining all our faculties,
+the effect of its appearance rendered still more striking by the sudden
+parting of the clouds which had previously concealed it from us. This
+prodigious conical volcano is from its steepness difficult of access,
+and the small crater on the summit is so closely surrounded by a wall of
+lava, that in some places there is scarcely room to stand. He who is
+bold enough to climb it, however, will find himself rewarded with one of
+the finest prospects in the world. Immediately beneath him, stretches
+the entire extent of the Teneriffe, with all its lovely scenery; round
+it the other nineteen Canary Islands; the eye then glances over an
+immense expanse of waters, beyond which may be descried in the distance
+the dark forests of the African coast, and even the yellow stripe which
+marks the verge of the great Desert. With thoughts full of the
+enjoyments which awaited us, we approached the town. We planned parties
+to see the country and climb the Peak; and our scientific associates,
+holding themselves in readiness to land as soon as the boat could be
+lowered, already rejoiced over the new treasures of mineralogy and
+botany of which the island seemed to promise so ample a store: meanwhile
+we had made the usual signal for a pilot; but having in vain waited his
+appearance, I resolved, as the road was not altogether unknown to me, to
+cast anchor without him; when, just as we had made our preparations, a
+ball from the fortress struck the water not far from the ship. At the
+same time we perceived that all was bustle on the walls; the cannons
+were pointed, the matches lighted, and plenty of Spanish balls were
+ready for our reception. Our government being at peace with Spain, this
+hostile conduct was quite unintelligible to us; but as I had no desire
+for a battle, I contented myself with drawing off the ship, and lying to
+beyond the reach of cannon shot, in the hope that a boat would be sent
+to us with some explanation of it. After, however, waiting a
+considerable time in vain, perceiving the continuance of warlike
+preparations on the walls, we were reluctantly obliged to renounce all
+hopes of visiting the island or the Peak, and to continue our voyage to
+Brazil, where we might reckon upon a kinder welcome.
+
+Here, then, was an end to all our promised pleasures. The enrichment of
+our museum, the merry parties and the choice wine all forfeited to a
+simple misunderstanding! Whatever might be their motive, it was an
+inconsiderate action in the Spaniards wantonly to insult the Russian
+flag; and even if they mistook us for enemies, it was silly to be afraid
+of a single ship, considering that the renowned Nelson, with an English
+fleet, had found the fortifications impregnable.
+
+After a few miles' sail we perceived a large three-masted ship
+endeavouring, with the wind against her, to reach the roads of Santa
+Cruz. We steered towards her, in hopes that we might obtain some
+information that should explain the riddle of the treatment we had
+received. But the ship seemed as much afraid of us as the fortress;
+and, as soon as she perceived our intention, made all possible haste to
+avoid us.
+
+It was really laughable enough, but it was also vexatious, that such
+peaceful people as we were should be considered so terrible. I sent a
+bullet after the ship, to induce her to stop; she then hoisted the
+English flag, but never slackened her speed; so that finding we could
+get no satisfaction, we thought it advisable to take advantage of the
+fresh trade-wind, to bear away from Teneriffe as quickly as possible. On
+the following morning we could still see the Peak, a hundred miles off,
+among the clouds; and we called to mind, as we gazed upon it, the
+mysterious accounts of its aborigines, of whom it was said, from the
+resemblance of their teeth to those of grazing animals, that they could
+only live on vegetables. They embalmed corpses in the manner of the
+ancient Egyptians, and preserved them in grottoes in the rocks, where
+they are still to be found. The Spaniards, the first discoverers and
+appropriators of the island, have described in high terms the state of
+civilization, methods of agriculture, and remarkably pure morality of
+these ancient inhabitants, who nevertheless were entirely exterminated
+by the tyranny and cruelty of their conquerors.
+
+The trade-wind and continued fine weather brought us rapidly on our way
+towards Brazil. Dolphins, flying-fish, and the large and beautiful
+gold-fish, called by the Spaniards _bonito_, constantly surrounded the
+ship, and formed by day a relief from the tedium of gazing on the
+unvarying billows, as did during the darkness of the night the
+innumerable phosphorescent animals of the muscle kind, which, studding
+the black ocean with sparks of fire, produced a dazzling and living
+illumination. Our naturalist, Professor Eschscholz, has already
+communicated to the world his microscopical observations upon these
+marine curiosities.
+
+On the first of October we doubled the Cape Verd Islands, without
+however seeing the land, which is almost always lost in mist, and
+steered direct for the Equator. Our progress was now impeded by calms,
+and the heat began to be oppressive; but care and precaution preserved
+the crew in perfect health, an effect which strict cleanliness, order,
+and wholesome diet, will seldom fail to produce, even in long voyages.
+
+At five degrees North latitude, we took advantage of a calm to draw up
+water from a depth of five hundred fathoms, by means of a machine
+invented by the celebrated Russian academician Parrot. We found the
+temperature five degrees by Reaumur, while that of the water on the
+surface reached twenty-five degrees. To us it appeared ice-cold, and we
+felt ourselves much refreshed by washing our heads and faces with it.
+The machine weighed forty pounds, and might contain about a moderate
+pail-full; but the pressure of the column of water over it was such,
+that six sailors with a windlass were hardly able to draw it up. We made
+an attempt to sink it to a thousand fathoms' depth, but the line broke,
+and we lost the machine; fortunately, however, we were provided with a
+second.
+
+While we were still more than a hundred miles from land, a swallow
+alighted on the deck. It is wonderful how far these little animals can
+fly without resting. At first, it seemed weary, but soon recovered, and
+flew gaily about. When far out at sea, cut off from every other society
+than that of our shipmates, any guest from land, even a bird, is
+welcome. Ours soon became a general favourite, and was so tame, that it
+would hop on our hands and take the flies we offered him without any
+symptom of fear. He chose my cabin to sleep in at night; and at sunrise
+flew again upon deck, where he found every one willing to entertain him,
+and catch flies for his subsistence. But our hospitality proved fatal to
+him; he over-ate himself, and died of an indigestion, universally
+lamented.
+
+On the 11th of October we crossed the Equator at twenty-five degrees W.
+longitude, reckoning from Greenwich.[2] Having saluted the Southern
+hemisphere by the firing of guns, our crew proceeded to enact the usual
+ceremonies. A sailor, who took pride in having frequently passed the
+Line, directed the performance with much solemnity and decorum. He
+appeared as Neptune, attired in a manner that was meant to be terribly
+imposing, accompanied by his consort, seated on a gun-carriage instead
+of a shell, drawn by negroes, as substitutes for Tritons. In the
+evening, the sailors represented, amidst general applause, a comedy of
+their own composition. These sports, while they serve to keep up the
+spirits of the men, and make them forget the difficulties they have to
+go through, produce also the most beneficial influence upon their
+health; a cheerful man being much more capable of resisting a fit of
+sickness than a melancholy one. It is the duty of commanders to use
+every innocent means of maintaining this temper in their crews; for in
+long voyages, when they are several months together wandering on an
+element not destined by nature for the residence of man, without
+enjoying even occasionally the recreations of the land, the mind
+naturally tends to melancholy, which of itself lays the foundation of
+many diseases, and sometimes even of insanity. Diversion is often the
+best medicine, and, used as a preservative, seldom fails of its effect.
+
+Below the Equator, we met with a fresh south-east wind, and having also
+fine weather, we soon reached the coast of Brazil.
+
+
+
+
+RIO JANEIRO.
+
+
+
+
+RIO JANEIRO.
+
+
+On the morning of the 1st of November, consequently in the spring of the
+Southern hemisphere, we perceived Cape Frio, and in the evening plainly
+distinguished, by its well-known conical mountain, the entrance to the
+Bay of Rio Janeiro. A dead calm deprived us of the pleasure of running
+into the port that night, so that we were compelled to drop our anchor
+before it; but we found some compensation for our disappointment, in
+contemplating so much of this charming country as was visible from our
+ship. The magnificent scenery of Brazil has often been described, but no
+expression can do justice to its ravishing beauty. Imagination can
+scarcely picture the exquisite variety of form and colouring of the
+luxuriant and gigantic vegetation that thickly clothes the valleys and
+mountains even to the sea-shore. A breeze from the land wafted to us the
+most delicious perfumes; and crowds of beautiful insects, butterflies,
+and birds, such as only the tropics produce, hovered about us. Nature
+seems to have destined these lovely regions for the unmixed enjoyment of
+her creatures; but, alas! hard labour and a tyrant's whip have, to the
+unhappy Negro, transformed this Paradise into a place of torment.
+
+The sight of two slave-ships formed a revolting contrast to the
+enchantment of the prospect: they had that day arrived from Africa, and
+lay near us at anchor. The trade in human flesh, that foul blot on
+civilized nations, of which most of them are already ashamed, yet
+flourishes here in detestable activity, and is carried on, with all the
+brutality of avarice, under the sanction of the laws. The ships employed
+in this abominable traffic are so over-crowded that the slaves have
+scarcely room to move. They are brought up by turns to inhale for a
+while the refreshing breeze, but the deck being only capable of
+accommodating a small portion at once, they are soon returned to the
+confined and pestilential atmosphere below. One third of the human
+cargo, as a necessary consequence, generally perishes on the voyage, and
+the remainder reach their place of destination in a state of miserable
+suffering. The decks of the ships I have just mentioned, were crowded
+with these unfortunate creatures, naked, fettered, and diseased. Even
+mothers with infants at their breasts had not been spared by these
+speculators! What still greater misery might not be concealed beneath
+the decks!
+
+The darkness, which at once closed from our view all that had delighted
+and disgusted us, rendered visible an almost incessant flight of
+rockets, and we heard occasionally, throughout the night, the discharge
+of guns and musketry from the town. These demonstrations of rejoicing
+led to the supposition that some important festival was celebrating, or
+that a great victory had probably been gained; we afterwards learnt,
+however, that they were occasioned only by the arrest of three
+ministers, accused of a conspiracy against the Emperor.
+
+At daybreak the chief pilot came on board. This little fat man, proud
+of his name of Vasco de Gama, which he professed to have inherited in a
+direct line from the celebrated navigator to the East Indies, was in
+many respects a good specimen of his countrymen. He was wholly
+uneducated, as they mostly are; and, next to his ancestry, that in which
+he took the greatest pride was the independence of Brazil. This feeling,
+which is general among all classes, enlists each individual personally
+in support of the existing government, and is its surest guarantee.
+
+Although our pilot had not attained to the renown of his great ancestor,
+I must do him the justice to say that he understood his business, and
+guided us very skilfully through the narrow mouth of the Bay. This small
+entrance, commanded by a fort on a height, is tolerably well secured
+from the approach of an enemy; and might, by stronger batteries, be made
+wholly inaccessible, as the channel is so narrow, that a ship in working
+its way in must always be within half-shot distance. We anchored near
+the town, among numerous vessels of various nations, and set foot once
+more on terra-firma, after being fifty-two days at sea since leaving
+England.
+
+Beautiful as this country always appears to an European eye, it has
+perhaps no scene so strikingly splendid and picturesque as that which
+presents itself within this Bay. The rich and novel peculiarity of the
+landscape is contrasted with the handsome buildings of the town, rising
+amphitheatrically round the harbour; and these again derive a curious
+effect from the tall and slender palm-trees, which, thickly interspersed
+among them, throw their strongly defined and waving shadows upon the
+white surface of the contiguous houses; and the whole is crowned by the
+numerous convents which are seen above the town, in the distance,
+clinging like swallows'-nests, to the precipitous sides of the
+mountains.
+
+We had hardly reefed our sails, when the Russian Vice-Consul, Von
+Kielchen, and an officer of the Brazilian government, came on board to
+congratulate us on our arrival. The latter acquainted me with the order
+of his Government, that every ship of war coming in should salute the
+fortress with one-and-twenty guns; and in order to remove all doubt that
+the compliment was designed for the Brazilian flag, he had brought one
+which, during the salute, he requested us to hoist at the fore-mast.
+
+New and unprecedented as this order was, from a state not yet
+acknowledged by our government, I determined, rather than risk any
+disagreement, to comply with it; and having fired the one-and-twenty
+guns, received from the fortress a similar number in return. Being very
+anxious not to lose the favourable season for doubling Cape Horn, I
+urged the Vice-Consul to expedite as much as possible the delivery of
+provisions and other necessaries to the ship; for this purpose, however,
+a delay of four weeks was required, and this time I determined to employ
+in astronomical observations. M. Von Kielchen procured me for this
+purpose a convenient country-house, situated on the romantic little bay
+of Botafogo, of which I took possession on the following day,
+accompanied by our astronomer, M. Preus; leaving the care of the ship to
+my officers.
+
+In the supposition that the history of Brazil may not be familiar to
+every reader, male and female,--for I hope to have many of the
+latter,--I will preface the narration of my residence here with the
+following notices.
+
+This great empire in South America, called Brazil, from a wood which
+grows there in great abundance, resembling in colour a red-hot coal, (in
+the Portuguese "_Brasa_,") is one of the richest and most fertile
+countries in the world. It was accidentally discovered in the year 1500,
+by a Portuguese named Cabral, who with a fleet bound for the East
+Indies, was thrown on these shores.
+
+The riches of the country being at first unknown, it was used as a place
+of banishment for criminals; but subsequently, when the convicts began
+to cultivate the sugar-cane, and the gold and diamond mines were
+discovered, Brazil acquired a higher value in the eyes of the Portuguese
+government.
+
+A Viceroy was therefore sent out, with the strongest injunctions to
+close the Brazilian ports against all foreign powers, in order to
+preserve to Portugal the exclusive trade in the diamonds and other
+precious stones with which it was now found that the country abounded.
+For a long time, this beautiful land, rich in all the gifts of nature,
+languished under the rule of Portuguese Viceroys, with a
+thinly-scattered population, poor, oppressed, and destitute of all
+mental culture. At length, the year 1807 opened to it a brighter
+prospect. Napoleon's ambitious views extending even to Portugal, forced
+the Royal Family to take refuge in the colonies. They were followed by
+fourteen thousand soldiers, and about twelve thousand other adherents.
+The presence of a court and government in the capital, Rio Janeiro, had
+the most beneficial influence on all the interests of the country. The
+ports were opened to all European ships, and commerce, wealth, and
+civilization advanced rapidly.
+
+Napoleon's victories having found a final termination, in his banishment
+to St. Helena, the King of Portugal returned, in 1821, to his European
+dominions, leaving the Regency of Brazil to his son, the Crown Prince,
+Pedro, already married to an Austrian princess.
+
+But the example of the newly-established republics of America had a
+powerful effect on the minds of the people; the King's departure was a
+signal for the breaking out of revolutionary disturbances, which, though
+the Crown Prince could not appease, he was, nevertheless, by means of a
+strong party he had gained over, enabled to direct. In the year 1822, he
+declared Brazil independent of the mother-country,--promised the people
+a Constitution,--and was at last proclaimed Emperor, by the title of
+Pedro the First. From the day when the nation tendered its allegiance,
+the Emperor and all patriots have worn on the left arm a green cockade
+inscribed with the words, "Independence or Death." At the coronation,
+the order of the Southern Cross was founded, and the new national flag
+hoisted: it is green, with a yellow square in the middle, on which is
+represented the Earth, surrounded by thirteen stars (the number of the
+provinces), and leaves of coffee and tobacco, as the produce of the
+country.
+
+The government, at the time of our residence in Brazil, was nothing less
+than constitutional. This is sufficiently proved by the tumultuary
+arrest of the above-mentioned three Ministers, by the arbitrary
+dispersion of the Deputies from the provinces, called together
+expressly to form a Constitutional Assembly, and by the expression of
+the Emperor, that he required unconditional submission, even if he
+should choose, like Charles the Twelfth, to send his boot to them as his
+representative. It is possible that the Emperor has been in some measure
+forced to these violent proceedings by the contentions of the various
+parties, each of which seeks its own interest without concerning itself
+about the general welfare. His personal character is much praised.
+
+A captain of one of the Russian-American Company's ships, who had been
+in Rio Janeiro, related to me the following anecdote of his benevolence.
+Two sailors belonging to his crew had been ashore, and having got drunk,
+were found lying senseless on the road to Corcovado. The Emperor and
+Empress happening to ride that way, attended only by a few servants, saw
+them, and supposed them to be sick. The Emperor immediately dismounted,
+rubbed their temples with his own hand, and endeavoured to restore them
+to their senses, but in vain. He then sent for his own surgeon, and
+dispatched them under his care to the hospital, from whence on the
+following morning, having slept off their intoxication, they were
+dismissed as cured.--Another, and a different anecdote, I heard from a
+painter from Vienna, who was residing in Rio Janeiro. The Emperor,
+wishing to have a whole-length portrait of himself, sent for the painter
+to place his easel in a room in the palace, and commenced sitting. The
+first outline was scarcely made, when an officer, whose business it was
+to report the arrival of ships, entered with the list. The names of the
+ships and captains, of various nations and languages with which the
+officer was unacquainted, puzzled him, and he read so stammeringly, and
+sometimes almost unintelligibly, that the Emperor, enraged at his
+ignorance, seized a stick, and the officer, only by a rapid flight round
+the easel, in which he was at first pursued by the monarch, escaped the
+intended chastisement. We shall be less surprised at this conduct, if we
+consider the point of civilization to which the country had attained
+when this Prince first seized the helm. May he succeed in elevating it
+to what his government may make it,--the happiest, as well as the
+loveliest and most fruitful empire in the world!
+
+The Brazilian fleet, then commanded by the celebrated Lord Cochrane,
+consisted of one ship of the line, two frigates, three brigs, and some
+smaller vessels. Inconsiderable as was this force, it was in good order,
+and under the direction of its skilful and heroic commander, had done
+wonders. Lord Cochrane had recently, with his single ship of the line
+and one frigate only, attacked and defeated a Portuguese squadron of two
+ships of the line and four frigates, pursued them to the port of Lisbon,
+and made prize of forty merchant vessels they were convoying. For this
+exploit, he received from the Emperor the appointment of Grand Admiral,
+and the title of Marquis of Marenham, after one of the provinces. He had
+before served the republic of Chili; and, it is said, in the midst of
+his warlike ardour, he had not forgotten the care of his private
+finances.
+
+This was his first year in the Brazilian service. I was curious to see
+so celebrated a man, and soon found an opportunity of forming an
+acquaintance with him, which led to a frequent intercourse. His
+external deportment is repulsive rather than attractive; he is somewhat
+taciturn; and it is difficult, in ordinary conversation, to discover the
+intelligence and information which he really possesses. He is turned of
+fifty years of age, tall and thin: his attitude is stooping, his hair
+red, his features strongly marked, and the expression of his countenance
+serious: his sparkling, lively eyes, concealed by overhanging eyebrows,
+are generally fixed on the ground, and seldom even raised to the person
+he is addressing. His lady forms a striking contrast with him: she is
+young, handsome, lively in conversation, extremely amiable, and so
+devotedly attached to him, that she exposes her life to the greatest
+danger rather than leave his side, and has remained in his ship during
+all his battles in the South American service.
+
+Cochrane frequently expressed to me a wish to enter the Russian service,
+in order to assist the Greeks, and fight the Turks. This object he has
+since attained by other means. War appears to be an indispensable
+necessity to his nature; and a dangerous struggle in a just cause is
+his highest enjoyment. How this enthusiasm can be united to the great
+love of money of which he is accused, it is not easy to imagine.
+
+My short residence in Brazil passed rapidly and agreeably in my
+necessary occupations, and the enjoyment of the charming environs of my
+country-house. The effect which so total a change of climate and scenery
+produces on European spirits, even when not experienced for the first
+time, is really astonishing. The eye can fix on no one object which is
+not directly the reverse of any thing to which it has been accustomed.
+The birds, insects, trees, flowers, all wear a foreign aspect, even to
+the blades of grass. By its strange forms and colourings, but especially
+by its overflowing abundance, all nature here demands attention.
+Throughout the day, myriads of the most beautiful butterflies, beetles,
+and humming-birds, display their various colours in the sun, which has
+scarcely set, before innumerable swarms of fire-flies illuminate the
+scene. I had seldom time for excursions; therefore, as it usually
+happens to sailors, I can say little of the interior.
+
+Botafogo, where, on account of the salubrity of the air, the richest
+and most distinguished of the inhabitants of Rio Janeiro have fixed
+their country-houses, is the most attractive spot in the immediate
+environs of the capital. Among the mountains which form the background
+of the view from the Bay, is one solid rock, very remarkable from the
+resemblance of its figure to an enormous church-steeple; it rises,
+according to a geometrical admeasurement of our scientific companion
+Lenz, to the height of fifteen hundred and eighty feet above the level
+of the sea. With infinite pains, a road has been conducted to the
+summit, where the space is so confined that a few persons only can be
+accommodated at the same time, but from whence the prospect is
+indescribably magnificent: it is called Corcovado, and is a favourite
+ride with the Emperor.
+
+From Botafogo the road to the capital is studded on both sides with
+pretty villas. The town derives its name, Rio Janeiro, or January river,
+from an error on the first discovery of the bay, which, owing to the
+narrowness of its mouth, was mistaken for a river, and named after the
+current month. Its interior by no means corresponds with its handsome
+appearance from the bay, the streets being narrow and dirty, and the
+buildings very tasteless. Clumsy churches and convents are found in
+plenty, but there is little worthy the attention of the traveller,
+except the Museum, which has a rich collection of rare natural
+curiosities, and valuable minerals. The extent of the town is
+considerable, and it contains about two hundred and fifty thousand
+inhabitants, of which however two-thirds are negroes, and the rest
+principally mulattoes and other people of colour. A white face is seldom
+to be seen in the streets; but the blacks are so numerous, that one
+might fancy oneself in Africa.
+
+Among these are a few free men; but the greater part are slaves degraded
+to beasts of burden. The immense weights they carry are usually fastened
+on a plank, each end of which is borne by a negro, keeping time to his
+steps by a monotonous and melancholy song in his native language, and
+goaded by the whip to renewed efforts, when the failing of his voice
+indicates almost utter exhaustion. They often carry heavily laden
+baskets on their heads; and even women are not exempt from this labour.
+
+On Sundays and holidays they also sing in time to their steps, as they
+stroll about, but the tune has a more lively character; and they
+sometimes accompany their voices on a little instrument composed of a
+few steel springs. They understand no other language than that of their
+distant country, and therefore, though the ceremony of baptism is never
+omitted, they receive no instruction in the doctrines of Christianity;
+thus, while an appearance of anxiety concerning the salvation of their
+souls is maintained, they continue sunk in the state of misery and
+darkness which hopeless bodily suffering is so calculated to produce.
+The few free blacks are either manumitted slaves or their descendants:
+they are mostly mechanics engaged in trade. The mulattoes are generally
+of illegitimate birth, but are sometimes the offspring of marriages
+between blacks and the lowest class of whites. From their connexion with
+blacks or whites spring all the various gradations of colour met with
+among the inhabitants of Brazil. The mulattoes and free negroes form the
+middle classes; the few whites found among them being the worst of
+characters, ignorant and vicious to the last degree; their repulsive
+exterior is worthy of their abandoned lives: they are usually _retail_
+slave dealers, and keep shops where these miserable beings are exposed
+to view, and may be examined and purchased like any other ware. About
+twenty thousand negroes are annually brought to Brazil; the average
+price of a female is three hundred, and of a man six hundred piastres.
+
+The principal food of the negroes is a sort of thick paste called
+Manioc, which is prepared from Tapioca by kneading in hot water; to an
+European palate it has a disagreeable flavour, but may be nutritious, as
+the slaves mostly look well-fed; I doubt, however, its being wholesome
+without a mixture of other food, and I even think it possible that it
+may be the original cause of a terrible disease to which the negroes
+alone are subject, and of which they know nothing in their own country.
+Large tumours appear on their faces and legs, which do not break, but
+increase in size till in some of the sufferers the human form can
+scarcely be recognised. A convent situated on a little island, called
+Dos Fradres, in the bay of Rio Janeiro, and not far from the town,
+contains a hospital, under the superintendence of the government, for
+sick negro slaves. I have not been able to learn whether this disease
+has been successfully treated here. The father of the Emperor, while he
+remained in Rio Janeiro, often visited the convent; and a room is shown
+where he used to take refuge when it thundered, as he was excessively
+fearful in a storm, and, from some unknown cause, esteemed this chamber
+peculiarly safe.
+
+On the 19th of November, the celebration of the anniversary of the
+coronation, and the establishment of the Order of the Southern Cross,
+attracted me to the capital.
+
+It was scarcely daybreak when the thunder of the cannon from all the
+batteries, and from the ships in the roads, recalled the remembrance of
+this happy event, which had taken place only the preceding year. The
+streets were filled with people; soldiers in their dress-regimentals
+hastened to their various places of rendezvous; and the negroes,
+released from labour, formed a part of the cheerful throng. At eleven
+o'clock, the Emperor and Empress, in a magnificent carriage drawn by
+eight horses, and escorted by a troop of guards in handsome uniforms,
+arrived at the principal church. A number of carriages, containing the
+suite of the Imperial pair, followed, all at a slow pace, that the
+people might have more time to enjoy the spectacle.
+
+At some distance from the door, the Emperor and Empress alighted, and
+entered the church in procession, surrounded by the Knights of the
+Southern Cross; they were met by the Bishop and the whole body of the
+clergy, and conducted with great pomp to a throne erected at the right
+side of the altar, which the Emperor ascended, while his consort took
+her place in a pew on the left. After the service, performed by a good
+choir to excellent music, the Bishop came forward and delivered a very
+long discourse, descriptive of the various virtues of the Emperor,
+comparing him to Peter the Great of Russia, and pointing out how he
+ought to administer the government for the good of his subjects. The
+comparison he was pleased to institute between the monarch and his
+illustrious namesake is only so far just, as, in the uncultivated state
+of the two nations, both have had similar materials to work upon.
+Whether Don Pedro, with much greater means, will effect as much as our
+immortal Peter, time will show. One of the hopes of Brazil is already
+extinguished by the death of the Empress, who in a short time had done
+much for science and the arts. When the sermon was over, their Majesties
+returned to the Palace, amidst an uninterrupted firing of cannon. They
+then received the congratulations of the court, and at four o'clock the
+Emperor reviewed in the great market-place, where a temple was erected
+for the imperial family, a body of four thousand five hundred troops,
+formed in a half circle round the temple. In their venerable commander,
+Don Jose de Currado, a field-marshal, of eighty years of age, I joyfully
+recognised the former governor of St. Katharine's, who, on my first
+voyage round the world, under the command of the present Admiral
+Krusenstein, received me so hospitably. The observations I had an
+opportunity of making upon the soldiers, before the arrival of the
+Emperor, were not altogether unfavourable; though, it must be confessed,
+the good people seemed to have no very high notion of discipline;
+smoking, and all kinds of irregularities, being permitted even in the
+front ranks. Their uniform was handsome and suitable; that of the
+musicians chiefly attracted my attention. Every colonel of a regiment
+has the right of dressing his band according to his fancy; and as tastes
+are very various, so of course are these costumes, though the Asiatic
+predominates; some being attired as Turks, others as Indians. In one
+regiment, indeed, a quantity of coloured feathers, worn on the head and
+round the body, formed the only covering.
+
+As soon as the Emperor and Empress, both on horseback and surrounded by
+a splendid court, were seen in the distance, the cannon sent forth its
+loudest roar, the soldiers threw away their cigars, the multitude waved
+their hats, the ladies in the balconies their white
+pocket-handkerchiefs, and all shouted "Viva l'Emperador." The cortege
+approached slowly; the Emperor, from the superior richness of his
+uniform, glittering amidst the splendid throng, like Syrius in the
+starry sky. His colossal figure seemed literally covered with gold lace;
+his breast sparkled with diamonds, and his strong features were shaded
+by a hat richly decorated with jewels. The Express was more tastefully
+attired in a simple black riding-dress, embroidered with gold. When she
+had taken her place in the temple, his Majesty assumed the command of
+the troops and paraded them before her. As soon as his powerful voice
+was heard, the thunder of the cannon again burst forth; the Turks,
+Indians, and above-mentioned Popinjays, blew their trumpets, while the
+shout from the people of "Viva l'Emperador" was loudest amidst the
+uproar. The columns of the military having several times defiled before
+the Empress, the parade terminated, and the Imperial family and their
+court repaired to the theatre. I had been seated in my box a few minutes
+before they entered the building, which was suffocatingly full, and I
+was surprised to find it as good in its architecture and arrangements as
+the generality of European theatres. The boxes were occupied by whites
+only, and many female faces were there to be seen as fair as those of
+Northern Europe; the tender red of the youthful cheek, the bright, black
+eye and jetty hair increased the attraction of these brilliant
+complexions; but many of the ladies have brown, and even very light
+hair. Their dress was tastefully arranged in the Parisian fashion: the
+art of the toilet appears indeed to be the only one they study, as their
+education does not always proceed so far as reading and writing,
+although they are not deficient in natural capabilities; their
+conversation is often as graceful and piquant as that of European
+ladies. Nor is general information much more extended among the
+gentlemen, as the following anecdote will testify. When, in 1817, the
+Russian frigate Kamschatka anchored in the Port of Rio Janeiro, it was
+visited by many Brazilians of rank, and amongst others by an officer who
+expressed much surprise at finding a crucifix in the cabin. He knew,
+indeed, that the Russians professed the Greek religion, but was wholly
+ignorant that this church formed any part of the Christian community.
+
+It is the custom here to pay visits in the theatre, which are indeed
+more highly prized than those made at their houses, as the attention is
+more publicly manifested. On these occasions the animated intercourse
+between the young people of the different sexes is frequently
+accompanied by glances sufficiently expressive to betray its object.
+
+The pit presented a very singular appearance, from its assemblage of
+various complexions, including every possible shade from black to white,
+although the darker tints had greatly the preponderance. Nor was the
+distinction of manners among the different portions of the audience less
+striking. No theatre in Europe can boast of more decorum and politeness
+than prevails here in the boxes; but the noisy and coarse vulgarity of
+the pit would not be tolerated in a more refined nation. All eyes were
+eagerly directed towards the Imperial box, when its curtain, which
+before had been close drawn, was thrown open; their Majesties then
+appeared standing in the front, the back of the box being filled by
+Knights of the Southern Cross. Hats and handkerchiefs were now again
+waved, and on every side resounded "Viva l'Emperador, l'Emperadriza, la
+Monarchia!" This enthusiasm having been rewarded by gracious
+acknowledgments, the drop curtain rose, and an actress came forward to
+recite a prologue in praise of the Emperor. Then followed a piece of
+which I understood very little; and the whole was concluded by a ballet,
+greatly superior to my expectations. During the performance, the Emperor
+gave audience in his box to many of his subjects, the interview always
+beginning with the homage of kissing hands on the bended knee. As soon
+as the curtain rose, the company in the pit became tolerably quiet, and
+much more attentive than those in the boxes; the latter appearing to
+take more interest in conversation with their acquaintances than in the
+performance. I paid my respects to Lord Cochrane and his amiable wife in
+their box, and remained with them till the conclusion of the piece.
+
+He spoke much of Chili, and wore even on this day of ceremony, a Chilian
+uniform and a blue scarf, its honorary decoration. This surprised me the
+more, as he seemed dissatisfied with the Chilian government. His
+explanation was, that the Emperor had not yet decided what his Brazilian
+uniform should be, and consequently, that he was still obliged to wear
+that of Chili. The lady preferred Chili to Brazil, and believed that
+the heat of this climate did not agree with her health.
+
+On the 27th of November, all our stores being laid in, bidding a cordial
+farewell to Brazil, I returned to my ship, intending to continue our
+voyage on the following day. Accordingly at five o'clock on the morning
+of the 28th we spread our sails, and the ebb-tide and a light breeze
+from the North, bore us slowly from this lovely coast. The wind soon
+slackened; and we should have been greatly embarrassed but for a number
+of boats sent by the English squadron, then lying in the roads, to tow
+us out to sea, by which seasonable assistance we were enabled to clear
+the bay before evening. The heat of Brazil had not injured the health of
+our crew. Fresh provisions, much fruit and vegetables, good lemonade
+instead of the ordinary drink, and a sea bath every evening, were the
+means I employed for the prevention of sickness. The men were in the
+best spirits for encountering the storms of the Southern ocean; and I
+destined the port of Conception, on the coast of Chili, for a
+resting-place, after having surmounted the difficulties of doubling Cape
+Horn.
+
+The result of our repeated observations on land, are as follows:--
+
+  Latitude of Botafogo                           21 deg. 56' 5" South.
+  Medium Longitude from various observations     43 deg. 7' 32" West.
+
+Every longitude which is given in the course of this voyage is reckoned
+by the distance from Greenwich, going from West to East. The variation
+of the needle amounted to 3 deg. East, its inclination to 9 deg. 28'. As
+the longitude of Cape Frio has been variously laid down, I took much pains
+to ascertain it exactly. By a very good chronometer, I found the
+difference between Cape Frio and Botafogo 1 deg. 6' 20"; so that the true
+longitude of Cape Frio from Greenwich must be 42 deg. 1' 12".
+
+
+
+
+DOUBLING OF CAPE HORN,
+AND
+RESIDENCE IN CHILI.
+
+
+
+
+DOUBLING OF CAPE HORN, AND RESIDENCE IN CHILI.
+
+
+We continued our course to the South very agreeably, with fine weather
+and a favourable wind. Under thirty-nine degrees of latitude, however,
+we could already perceive how much further the South pole extends its
+unfavourable influence than the North. The sky was no longer clear, the
+wind became changeable and violent, the air much colder, and the
+frequent sight of the whale, and of a giant bird called the albatross,
+warned us that we were approaching the stormy region. We afterwards
+shot one of these birds on the coast of Chili, which measured twelve
+feet across the wings.
+
+In the parallel of Rio de la Plata, although two hundred miles from
+land, we were daily carried by the current thirty-nine miles out of our
+course towards the south-west; so great is the influence of this mighty
+river at the distance of two hundred and forty miles from its mouth.
+
+On the 15th of December, in the beginning of the southern summer, under
+forty-seven degrees of latitude, where, if the temperature of both
+hemispheres were equal, the climate would have been that of the South of
+Germany, or the middle of France, we were overtaken by a violent storm,
+accompanied by hail and snow. It began from the south-west, but the
+wind, in the course of twenty-four hours, veered the whole round of the
+compass, and raised such high and furious billows, that our escape from
+destruction afforded ample proof, notwithstanding a considerable leak,
+of our ship's strength, and her architect's skill. From this time we
+continued our voyage with a fair wind and serene weather.
+
+Between Falkland Islands and the west of Patagonia, we saw great
+numbers of storm-birds, betokening the neighbourhood of land, and we
+sailed within speaking distance of a North-American whaler. The dirty
+ship, and the crew smeared with blubber, had indeed a disgusting
+appearance; but if we consider to what toils and dangers these poor men
+are exposed during their voyages, which commonly last several years, in
+the most tempestuous seas, sometimes sailing about for months without
+seeing a fish, and suffering in the meanwhile from the want of wholesome
+food, yet pursuing their object with invincible perseverance, it is
+impossible to deny them compassion, and even commendation. The North
+Americans display an industry and perseverance in their commercial
+undertakings, which is not exceeded even by the English: they are to be
+met with upon every sea, and in the most unfrequented regions,
+disdaining nothing, however trivial, from which they can derive profit.
+On the north-west coast of America, they barter with the savages all
+kinds of European trifles for the beautiful skin of the sea-otter, which
+they sell for a high price in China. Many of their vessels take in
+cargoes of sandal-wood in the South-Sea Islands, for which they also
+find a good market in China, where it is in great estimation; others
+pursue the spermaceti whale in the neighbourhood of Cape Horn, and carry
+on an important traffic in this article.
+
+On the morning of the 23rd of December, we saw in the distance the
+snow-covered points of the mountains in the dreaded Staten-land. A fresh
+breeze carried us so near to this inhospitable and desolate island, that
+we could plainly distinguish the objects on it, even without a
+telescope. What a contrast to the beauty of Brazil! There nature seems
+inexhaustible in her splendour and variety; here she has sparingly
+allowed a thin clothing of moss to the lofty masses of black rock.
+Seldom do the sun's rays lighten this or the neighbouring island of
+Terra del Fuego. Vegetation is so blasted by the perpetual cold and
+fogs, that a few miserable stunted trees can scarcely find subsistence
+at the foot of the mountains. The sea-birds avoid these barren shores;
+the very insects disdain them; the dog, the faithful companion of man,
+and man himself, the inhabitant of every climate under heaven, can
+alone exist in this; but the warmth of the sun is essential to the
+development of his faculties. Here he is a mere animal, and of
+disgusting appearance; small, ill-shaped, with dirty copper-coloured
+skin, black bristly hair, and devoid of beard. He inhabits a miserable
+hut made of boughs covered with dried rushes, and appeases his hunger on
+the raw and often half-decayed flesh of the sea animals, whose skins
+furnish him with a scanty covering: this is the utmost extent to which
+his invention has yet led him, in providing defences against the
+roughness of the climate; and the dreariness of his existence is still
+unenlivened by any notion of amusement. Yet is this benumbing country
+situated in the same degree of southern latitude in which in the
+northern lies my beloved Esthonia, where every comfort of civilization
+may be enjoyed--the land of my birth, where in the charming form of
+woman is "garnered up" the happiness of my life, and where I hope to
+rest at last in the haven of friendship and love, till I set out on that
+final voyage from which I shall never return.
+
+We had so little wind, that we were only able on the following morning
+to double the eastern promontory of Staten-land, Cape John; which our
+chronometers fixed, almost precisely, in the same longitude assigned to
+it by Captain Cook. I now steered a westerly course along the south
+coast of Staten-land, contrary to the usual practice of navigators, who
+run from hence to 60 degrees South, expecting in that latitude to meet
+with fewer impediments to their passage into the South Sea. Experience
+has taught me, moreover, that Cape Horn may be doubled with least loss
+of time by keeping near land, where in the summer months good east winds
+will often blow, when westerly winds prevail at a distance of forty
+miles to sea-ward. When we had passed Staten-land, the Terra del Fuego
+lay in equally fearful form to our right. We continued our course with a
+moderate north-east wind, and remarked a strong current to the north.
+
+On the noon of the following day we perceived the terrible Cape Horn at
+a distance of twenty-five miles, lying in the form of a high, round
+mountain before us. A calm, of which we took advantage to shoot some
+albatrosses, delayed us for a few hours; but on Christmas-day we doubled
+the Cape without the slightest difficulty. In the evening, after sailing
+close alongside the little rocky island of Diego Ramirez, inhabited by
+immense numbers of sea-birds, we found ourselves in the South Sea. A
+favourable east wind swelling our sails, on the 28th of December, we did
+our best to clear the island of Terra del Fuego, before a west wind
+should impede our progress; but in this we were disappointed, for a
+sudden storm drove us out of our course to latitude 59-1/2 deg. Here, for
+a New Year's gift, we fell in with a fresh south wind, which helped us
+forward at the rate of eleven miles an hour, and continued to swell our
+sails, till on the 5th we lost sight of the Terra del Fuego, and
+joyfully continued our voyage northwards. At Cape Horn, Reaumur's
+thermometer stood at four degrees; a temperature rendered very
+disagreeable by our having so recently suffered from oppressive heat. We
+now hailed with renewed enjoyment the daily increasing warmth.
+
+My sailors had heard much of the dreadful storms which raged at all
+seasons round Cape Horn, and destroyed so many ships. One of them had
+recently read to his messmates the history of Lord Anson's unfortunate
+voyage: they were therefore not quite free from apprehension on
+approaching this dangerous point, and were agreeably surprised at
+passing it so quietly. In their joy they hit on the proud, poetical
+idea, that the very elements themselves respected the Russian flag. This
+bold imagination took such possession of their minds, that, in the
+elevation of their spirits, they resolved to represent it in a
+pantomime, to which I willingly assented, as my own cheerfulness greatly
+depended on theirs. Accordingly, a throne was erected on the capstan,
+adorned with coloured flags and streamers, which we were to take for the
+extreme point of Cape Horn, upon which, shrouded in red drapery, with
+all becoming dignity and seriousness of aspect, sat the hitherto unknown
+God Horn, (begotten and born of the sailors' fancy,) the tremendous
+ruler of the winds and waves in this tempestuous ocean. In his strong
+right hand he held a large three-pronged oven fork, and in his left a
+telescope, with which he surveyed the watery expanse seeking for a
+sacrifice. A grey beard smeared with tar, hung down to his knees, and,
+probably as a symbol of his marine dominion, instead of a crown, his
+head was decorated by a leathern pail. Before him lay a large open book,
+and a pen was stuck behind his ear, to write down the names of the ships
+which sailed by. The exact purpose of this I could not understand, but
+the effect was equally good. Upon the lower step of the throne stood two
+full-cheeked sailors, very much painted, holding bellows, to represent
+the Winds ready to produce a raging whirlwind at the nod of their ruler.
+The God seemed in a very ill humour, till at the appearance of a
+three-masted ship, made of some planks nailed together, his visage
+suddenly cleared. The crew of the vessel, which was in full sail,
+pointed to the Cape, and appeared to rejoice in the expectation of
+doubling it safely. Then did the God Horn give the ominous nod, and the
+bellows began to work. The ship took in her sails with all possible
+expedition, but was nevertheless terribly tossed about. The crew, in
+danger of perishing, offered their supplications to the God, who at
+length relenting, commanded the winds to subside, and suffered the
+vessel to pass on in safety. Soon after another vessel appeared bearing
+our flag, which the God no sooner perceived than he descended from his
+throne, took the pail respectfully from his head, and made a profound
+obeisance, in token of homage to the Russian flag. The AEolian attendants
+blew the gentlest gales, and we soon vanished with out-stretched sails
+behind our own main-mast. The piece concluded amidst universal applause,
+and a double portion of grog served to increase the general
+cheerfulness.
+
+Thus opened the year 1824.--The crew believed that, with the passage of
+Cape Horn, the greatest danger of the voyage was over, and were full of
+life and spirits. On the 15th of January we saw far off the Island of
+St. Maria, and on the following morning knew, by the two high mountains
+called Biobio's Bosom, from the river which flows between them, that we
+were approaching the Bay of Conception. As soon as these hills are
+clearly distinguished, the entrance to the bay is easily found.--In
+fine weather they are excellent guides.
+
+A brisk south wind carried us swiftly towards the land, which, far from
+charming the eye with the picturesque beauty of Brazil, presents an
+almost undeviating straight line.--The round sides of the mountains are
+but sparingly covered with vegetation, and in this dry season had a
+sterile appearance. At noon, having doubled the Island of Quiquirino, at
+the the mouth of the bay, we found ourselves in a smooth and spacious
+sheet of water, surrounded by crowds of sea-dogs, dolphins, whales, and
+water-birds, which abound on the coasts of Chili. This part of the
+country is but thinly inhabited, and a few poor and scattered huts only
+are visible. During the centuries that it has been in possession of the
+Spaniards, it has advanced as little as their other colonies in
+cultivation or civilization.
+
+The calm made it impossible on that day to reach the village of
+Talcaguana, where ships usually lie at anchor, and we were consequently
+obliged in the evening to lay-to at some miles distance.
+
+At twelve o'clock at night, the watch on deck observed a large boat
+approaching with caution to within reach of musket-shot. This slinking
+about in the dark had a suspicious appearance, especially as the colony
+having revolted against the mother-country, was in a state of war. Want
+of light prevented our learning the strength of the boat's crew, or what
+arms it carried; but we prepared to repel an attack, in which, however,
+it was manifest the advantage would be greatly on our side. I ordered
+the watch to hail the boat, which in return addressed us through a
+trumpet, first in Spanish, and immediately afterwards in English,
+inquiring to what nation we belonged, and whence, and for what purpose,
+we were come. Upon our reply that we were Russians and good friends, the
+boat came nearer, and an officer, well armed with sword and pistols,
+came on deck, but was so alarmed on perceiving our state of warlike
+preparations, that he did not utter a word till he had satisfied himself
+that we were really Russians, and had no hostile intentions.
+
+The cause of his fear lay in the report of a Spanish frigate having
+been seen cruising on the coast. This officer was an Englishman, in the
+service of the republic of Chili, and lieutenant of a corvette lying
+before Talcaguana. He left us with a request, (which was immediately
+complied with,) that we would hoist a lantern at our fore-mast, as a
+signal of peace to the inhabitants of Talcaguana, among whom our
+appearance had spread the greatest anxiety.
+
+Early in the morning I sent an officer ashore to notify our arrival in
+proper form to the commandant of the place, and to request his
+permission to furnish ourselves with water and fresh provisions, which
+was granted in the most courteous manner possible.
+
+Sure of a favourable reception, I immediately weighed anchor, and,
+having a good wind, dropped it again at noon, at the distance of a
+musket-shot from Talcaguana, in a depth of five and a half fathoms,
+after having been fifty days on the voyage from Rio Janeiro, during the
+whole of which time the crew had enjoyed the most perfect health.
+Besides our own ship, and the above-mentioned corvette, commanded by
+Captain Simson, three merchant ships under Chilian, and three whalers
+under English colours also lay here. In the afternoon I went ashore
+myself, and paid the Commandant a visit; I was received in the most
+friendly manner, but with a good deal of Spanish etiquette, by an old
+man, who was evidently a zealous republican. He told me, that the first
+President of the Republic, Freire, whose authority, he gave me to
+understand, would be very instrumental in furthering his efforts to
+assist us, was at that moment in the town of Conception. Thither,
+therefore, I determined to proceed, hoping to see the President, and
+procure from him a written order for our accommodation.
+
+And here, though it interrupt the course of my narrative, I apprehend
+some particulars concerning this country may be agreeable to such of my
+readers as are strangers to it.
+
+The fruitful Chili is a long and narrow strip of coast-land, bathed on
+the West by the Great Ocean, so falsely called the Pacific; divided on
+the North from Peru by the desert tract of Atacoma; and on the East,
+from Buenos Ayres, by the chain of the Cordilleras, or Andes, whose
+snow-covered summits are diversified by the columns of fire continually
+emitted from numerous volcanoes; on the South it extends as far as the
+Straits of Magellan, and indeed also claims the wholly useless island of
+Terra del Fuego, which is rarely, if ever, visited by a Chilian.
+
+The Spaniard Valdivia may be considered as the real discoverer of Chili.
+He established here the first Spanish settlement, the present capital,
+St. Jago, and subsequently, the town of Conception. For a long time the
+Spaniards were engaged in bloody and uninterrupted war with the original
+inhabitants of the country, called Araucanians. This strong and
+enterprising people withdrew into the mountains, where they were
+invincible, and from whence they have continued, to the present day, to
+annoy the descendants of the intruders, who acknowledge and have
+hitherto respected their independence. They still preserve in their
+mountains and fastnesses their ancient mode of living, and remain
+faithful to the religion and manners of their ancestors. Unluckily for
+the Spaniards, they have become very dangerous neighbours by providing
+themselves with horses, which, as they are skilful riders, enable them
+to execute their predatory expeditions with a rapidity that renders them
+almost always successful. A few of them have settled in the valleys, at
+the foot of the mountains, and adopted the Christian religion, without
+however amalgamating with the Spaniards, or losing their freedom.
+
+The lower class of the present inhabitants of Chili is a mixed race,
+sprung from the union of Spaniards with Araucanian women: they are well
+grown, of a dark brown complexion, and have a lively red in their
+cheeks. The men are all good riders, and have brought to great
+perfection the art of catching wild animals with the _lasso_. The upper
+classes have preserved their Spanish blood pure: they are also very well
+formed, the females nearly always handsome, and some of them remarkably
+beautiful. La Perouse found them decorated with metal rings; they now
+adorn themselves with much taste in Parisian fashions, which reach them
+by the way of Peru: their manners, though they do not approach so nearly
+to the forms of European society as do those of the upper ranks in Rio
+Janeiro, are nevertheless not deficient in refinement.
+
+The climate resembles that of the middle of France, and vegetation
+thrives abundantly in its fertile soil. Among many kinds of native
+animals, the wild goats are the most numerous, and are scarcely ever
+tamed. Chili is particularly rich in beautiful birds; troops of parrots
+are seen on the wing; humming-birds, and butterflies of all kinds, hover
+round the flowers, and swarms of lantern-flies sparkle through the
+night; while venomous insects and snakes are unknown.
+
+This fine country has been long neglected. Spanish jealousy allowed no
+trade with foreign nations; and the introduction of the Inquisition was
+sufficient to prevent all mental advancement. The inhabitants are also
+justly accused of idleness, in not having taken more advantage of the
+productiveness of their soil. Now, however, that they have thrown off
+the yoke under which their industry was oppressed, and burst the fetters
+of the Inquisition, which bowed down their minds, they begin to be
+ashamed of the low grade of civilization on which they stand, in
+comparison with other nations, and are exerting themselves to attain a
+more respectable station in the scale.
+
+The Chilians are chiefly indebted for their independence to the
+well-known General San Martin. In the year 1817, he made the celebrated
+campaign over the Andes from Buenos Ayres, attacked and completely
+defeated the Spaniards, and laid the foundation of the freedom of Chili.
+It is now governed by plenipotentiaries from all the provinces, under
+the presidency of General Freire.
+
+The Bay of Conception is a most eligible resting-place for the voyager
+in these seas to touch at, on account of its safe and commodious
+harbour, its abundant supply of provisions, and the healthiness of its
+climate. Evidently destined by nature for the central point of Chilian
+commerce, it must certainly supersede the unsafe roads of Valparaiso.
+Freire has already determined to establish an Admiralty in the
+neighbourhood of Talcaguana, and as much as possible to encourage the
+population of that part of the country. The village of Talcaguana,
+consisting of about fifty small and poor houses, and another still
+smaller, called Pencu, have been the only settlements on this bay since
+the destruction, in the year 1751, of the old town of Conception by an
+earthquake--no uncommon occurrence in these regions. The new town of
+this name has been built farther inland, on the banks of the beautiful
+river Biobio, and is seven miles distant from Talcaguana.
+
+Early in the morning on the 18th of January, I went with Dr. Eschscholtz
+to Talcaguana, where horses were in waiting to take us to Conception.
+The heavy, clumsy cars drawn by oxen, which I believe I described in my
+former voyage, are the only kind of carriage known here; and as even the
+ladies use these only on state occasions, they perform all their
+journeys, as in days of old, on horseback.
+
+The Russian flag having waved here but twice since the foundation of the
+world, curiosity had brought a great crowd to witness my disembarkation;
+and as it was now ascertained that the Captain was the same who, eight
+years before, had so much delighted the inhabitants with a ball, many
+of my old acquaintances and guests had assembled to welcome me. I could
+not resist their kind and pressing invitations to visit them once more,
+before going to Conception. I was received with the greatest cordiality,
+and all possible pains were taken to entertain me; but they complained
+sadly of the ravages of war, which had brought its usual concomitants,
+poverty and ruin, in its train. A melancholy change had taken place
+since my former visit; some of the wealthiest families had removed from
+Lima, and a striking difference was perceptible in the establishments of
+those that remained; while the silver utensils which formerly had been
+so common even among the poorer inhabitants, had wholly disappeared, and
+were replaced by a bad description of stone ware.
+
+The same traces of desolation were visible along the once beautiful road
+to Conception, whither we proceeded on spirited horses, as soon as we
+had paid the required visits. Instead of the numerous flocks and herds
+which once adorned the meadows, burnt villages, uncultivated fields,
+devastated orchards, and swarms of beggars, presented a painful picture
+of universal want and misery. Such are the heavy sacrifices with which
+Chili has purchased her independence. May she enjoy their fruits under a
+government sufficiently wise and powerful to restore her prosperity!
+
+Our two hours' ride afforded ample time and scope for these reflections;
+and on reaching the town, we were concerned to find similar symptoms of
+misfortune. A great part of it lay in ruins; and the houses yet standing
+were occupied, not by useful citizens, or active, speculating merchants,
+but by soldiers. The former have, with few exceptions, withdrawn from
+Conception to Mexico and Peru. But the war of the Revolution is not
+chargeable with all the desolation which has befallen this unhappy town.
+A year before it broke out, a great horde of wild Araucanians, availing
+themselves of an opportunity when the Chilian troops were elsewhere
+employed, fell so suddenly upon the town during the night, that the
+inhabitants, who had not the slightest warning till the enemy was within
+their walls, were unable to defend themselves. Well knowing that they
+could not maintain their post, the Araucanians were active in the work
+of rapine and murder, and at length withdrew to their mountains laden
+with rich booty.
+
+These Araucanians, among whom such expeditions are not unfrequent, are,
+according to the accounts of officers here, a very warlike people, well
+armed with bows, arrows, and lances: they make their onset in great
+hordes, with a wild yell, and with such fury and rapidity that it is not
+easy even for regular troops to resist. If this, however, can be firmly
+withstood, they are in a few minutes defeated and put to flight. When
+pursued, they escape shots and sabre strokes by the dexterity with which
+they fling themselves on either side of their horses; sometimes even
+hanging under the horse's belly while it is going at full gallop. When
+escape is impossible, they defend themselves to the last, preferring
+death to captivity.
+
+From Rio Janeiro I had brought a letter of introduction to a once rich
+and still prosperous merchant in Conception, named Mendiburu; I
+immediately sought him out, and was received and entertained with the
+kindest hospitality. His house proved to be the same which, on my
+former visit to Conception, the then Governor had appointed for my
+accommodation. At that time many discontented spirits had already shown
+themselves, had assumed the appellation of patriots, and were persecuted
+by the Government; Mendiburu was one of these, and having made his
+escape, the Government, till its overthrow, had kept possession of his
+house.
+
+My complaisant host, a little man, rather advanced in years, who in many
+respects was extremely useful to us, accompanied us, as soon as we had
+arranged our dress, to the President Freire. The latter received us in
+the full uniform of a general officer, with the most ceremonious
+politeness, but still kindly, although something of distrust might be
+perceived in his deportment.
+
+Our circumstances with respect to Spain were known; and, as I afterwards
+learned, it was absurdly enough imagined, that Russia had designs upon
+Chili, and that these formed the secret motive of our visit. Freire, who
+had already distinguished himself as a general, is a stately-looking
+man, at that time about forty-five years of age, and of a very agreeable
+exterior; he was born in Talcaguana, of very poor parents, and, without
+enjoying any particular advantage of education, has raised himself, by
+his own merit alone, to the high rank he occupies.
+
+After an unmeaning sort of conversation, consisting of little else than
+civilities, I endeavoured to procure the permission of the President for
+our naturalist and mineralogist to make a journey into the Cordilleras,
+which he, however, politely but positively refused, on the ground that
+the Chilians were at war with the people in the mountains. I afterwards
+learnt from Mendiburu, that this was merely a pretence, as the President
+had already succeeded in establishing peace and an amicable league with
+the Araucanians. A small military escort would therefore have been amply
+sufficient to protect the travellers from all danger of annoyance; but
+here the weakness of the newly established government betrayed itself.
+They are distrustful of strangers, and act upon the old Spanish
+maxim,--to close the interior of the country against them. The recent
+discovery of gold and silver mines in the mountains, which was still
+kept secret, from the fear that foreign powers might covet these
+treasures, probably, also, contributed to a refusal which has
+undoubtedly proved, for the present, a serious loss to science. All the
+arguments I could urge to obviate the President's objections were
+ineffectual: all I could obtain for our learned associates was
+permission to travel round the bay of Conception and the environs of
+Talcaguana, for which a passport was made out; and a subaltern officer
+was appointed to accompany them, who in all probability had also his
+private instructions to see that the journey extended no farther.
+
+Overwhelmed with courtesies and promises to make our residence here as
+agreeable as possible, we left the President, and concluded the day in
+pleasant society at the house of our host Mendiburu, who on the
+following morning accompanied us back to Talcaguana. He had the
+complaisance to surrender for our accommodation and the convenience of
+our astronomical observations, a large house belonging to him in
+Talcaguana, which had once been inhabited by La Perouse. I took
+immediate possession of it, and our time was now very agreeably divided
+between the necessary attention to the repairs and provisioning of the
+ship, scientific observations, and the society of the hospitable
+natives.
+
+The little town was soon filled with warlike tumult. A grenadier
+regiment from Conception marched in with drums beating and a very good
+band playing. The uniform was in the French fashion, clean and
+substantial; the muskets were in the best order.
+
+Freire has most zealously exerted himself to raise a respectable army;
+but to bring a rabble of adventurers from all nations into proper
+discipline is no easy task, especially where there is not money enough
+to pay them punctually; even the officers are mostly foreigners, and,
+with few exceptions, ignorant and stupid beyond all belief. With such a
+soldiery, patriotism or enthusiasm in the cause is of course out of the
+question. The Chilian soldier fights like a robber, for the sake of the
+booty he hopes to acquire; and covetousness will form the foundation of
+his valour, till increase of population shall permit the organization of
+a national militia.
+
+A few regiments had been sent over to the island of Quiquirino, perhaps
+in order to render desertion more difficult: here they had formed a
+camp, and were exercised in various manoeuvres. The whole force,
+consisting of three thousand men, was destined, under the command of the
+President, to attack the island of Chiloe, the only spot still remaining
+in possession of the Spaniards. They were now waiting the arrival of the
+requisite vessels from Valparaiso.
+
+On the 20th of January, amidst the thunder of the artillery, a new
+Constitution was proclaimed at Conception, signed there in great form by
+Freire, and afterwards read in many other towns of the Republic. Some of
+the inhabitants received it with enthusiasm, but it by no means gave
+satisfaction to all. In Talcaguana, opinions were much divided, and
+loudly and undisguisedly expressed. In every company the new
+Constitution became the chief subject of conversation, and often gave
+occasion to violent disputes. Even the ladies were not exempt from this
+political mania: they gave their opinions with unhesitating confidence
+and decision, and, in fact, often appeared fully as capable of forming
+a correct judgment as the men.
+
+Without entering into these criticisms, I shall only remark, that one
+regulation of the Chilian Constitution must certainly be
+disadvantageous--the public exercise of any other religion than the
+Catholic is forbidden; Catholics only can fill civil offices (with the
+military such strictness is impracticable); nor is any one permitted to
+carry on a mechanical trade who does not belong to this Church.
+
+If the advantage of universal toleration is so evident in the most
+flourishing states, how much more desirable must it be for one so thinly
+peopled, and where industry and knowledge are so little advanced.
+
+We frequently received visits on board from the ladies and gentlemen of
+Chili; and once from an Araucanian chief, accompanied by his daughter
+and some attendants. A collation was prepared for the Araucanians, of
+which they heartily partook; and despising the knife and fork, helped
+themselves plentifully with their fingers. The meal being concluded, we
+made them some trifling presents, with which they were much delighted;
+the chief also begged a piastre, and his daughter (a true woman, though
+a savage,) a looking-glass. After she had contemplated her features for
+some time with much satisfaction, the treasure was passed from hand to
+hand among her people, who all appeared extremely well content with the
+reflection of their own faces, although, according to our ideas of
+beauty, none of them had any cause for vanity. They are of the middle
+stature, strongly built, and of dark complexions. Their hair is black,
+and hangs loosely over their shoulders; and their little Chinese eyes,
+and prominent cheek-bones, seemed to indicate an Asiatic origin. The
+expression of their faces is good-natured, lively, and rather
+intelligent. Their dress is very simple, consisting merely of a piece of
+many-coloured striped woollen stuff of their own manufacture: in shape,
+it is an oblong square, with a hole in the centre through which the head
+is passed, the longer ends hanging down to the knee before and behind,
+the shorter at each side falling over the shoulders, and the lower part
+of their limbs remaining bare. The Spanish Chilians call this garment a
+_pancho_, and often use it in winter as a surtout: among the common
+people it makes the daily, and sometimes even the only clothing.
+
+The officers of the regiment stationed here politely gave a ball in our
+honour, which, as might be expected in this poor village, did not prove
+very brilliant; but as my young officers found plenty of pretty and
+agreeable partners, they were perfectly satisfied. The old custom of
+opening a ball with a minuet is still practised here, and the Chilians
+dance it remarkably well.
+
+Besides the dances common among us, a sort of fandango is a favourite
+here: it is expressly adapted to display the graces of a fine figure to
+the best advantage, and is danced by two persons, whose picturesque
+attitudes and motions are accompanied on the guitar, and by tender
+songs, according in expression with the pantomimical representations of
+the dance.
+
+We determined to return the complaisance of the natives by giving a ball
+on board our ship to our acquaintances in Talcaguana, and some from
+Conception. My officers made every effort to surpass the Chilians in the
+elegance of their entertainment; and having been detained on shore
+during their preparations, and till the hour appointed for the ball, I
+was really astonished to see how much they had been able to achieve. The
+deck was changed into a large illuminated saloon, decorated with fine
+myrtle trees, luxuriant garlands, and bouquets of flowers of every
+colour, exhaling the sweetest perfumes, and appropriate transparencies
+in the background opposite the entrance. The cabins had been cleared for
+refreshment-rooms; and the musicians, concealed behind a curtain, were
+to pour forth their animating strains unseen by the dancers. The
+cheerful scene was rapidly filled with cheerful faces; graceful figures
+moved in the lively dances; and love and beauty alone seemed to preside
+within the joyous precincts. But suddenly a universal confusion and
+panic terror was spread among the company, and chiefly among the ladies.
+Some suspicious simpleton or mischievous wag had whispered that we had a
+design of secretly weighing anchor during this festivity, and sailing
+away with our beautiful prisoners. My friend Mendiburu, however, at
+length succeeded in banishing this ridiculous apprehension, and
+restoring tranquillity. Pleasure and confidence again reigned over the
+revels, till the sun stood high in the heavens; and like every other
+earthly enjoyment, even our ball drew to a close, though it bade fair to
+linger long in the recollection as well of our returning guests as of
+some of the young entertainers.
+
+The delightful weather tempted us, soon after this, to make an excursion
+to the opposite shores of the bay, and visit the ruins of the old town
+of Conception. Mendiburu was of the party, as were all of our scientific
+brethren, and as many of the officers as duty permitted to be absent.
+Very early, on a beautiful morning, we distributed our party in three
+large boats, and rowed, in two hours, to the destined point. We landed
+at the village of Pencu, which, like Portici upon Herculaneum, is built
+upon the ruins of the former town of Conception, and whose inhabitants
+live quietly and cheerfully over the graves of their unfortunate
+predecessors, and disturb themselves little with the thought, that the
+same fate may bury them one day in a living tomb.
+
+About fifteen houses, surrounded by gardens, lie scattered here over a
+lovely plain, watered by the small river St. Peter. Nature here appears
+more luxuriant and productive than at Talcaguana. The mountains which
+encircle this valley rise gently to a moderate height, and delight the
+eye by the freshness of the shrubs with which they are covered.
+
+While we gave chase to many kinds of birds and insects for the
+improvement of our collection, the sailors threw out a great net, and
+took a quantity of shell and other fish with which the sea abounds in
+this neighbourhood, and which make the chief subsistence of the poorer
+classes of people. The environs of this village are considered the
+loveliest district round the bay, and infinitely surpassing Talcaguana
+in the beauty of its scenery. Few remains of the old town are visible.
+The earth seems to have actually opened and swallowed it up, leaving
+scarcely a trace behind. Even the yawning gulph in which it sunk has
+filled again, so that it is only here and there upon the plain that some
+fragment of a former dwelling reminds one of the fearful catastrophe.
+
+The inhabitants of Talcaguana and Conception make excursions to Pencu,
+to examine, as a curiosity, a water-mill established there by some
+foreigner. We found it so out of repair as to be unserviceable, and the
+owner complained that he could find no one capable of mending it. The
+wheat is here ground to flour by beating it in stone pots with heavy
+wooden clubs; which may serve to give some idea of the progress the
+Chilians have made in the useful arts.
+
+Mendiburu possessed an estate near Pencu, where we partook of a pleasant
+meal under the shade of fruit-trees. After dinner the whole company went
+shooting, and in the course of a few hours had killed several hundred
+water-birds of various kinds. The flocks in which they fly are sometimes
+so numerous as to darken the air. During our absence such a one was
+descried from the ship; it appeared a solid mass of about ten fathoms
+broad, and its flight lasted full three hours.
+
+The repairs of our ship had gone on quickly, and the time approached for
+our leaving Chili, when we perceived that the friendliness and civility
+we had hitherto experienced from the inhabitants was changing into
+reserve and evident distrust. Secret cabals were going on against us;
+and even the Government seemed inclined to act, if not with positive
+hostility, at least violently and arbitrarily towards us.
+
+The attention of the unreflecting and easily excited Chilians had first
+been attracted by the mustachios worn by one of my companions. They took
+him for a disguised Spaniard, who had accompanied us to sow discontents,
+and gain back the hearts of the people to the old government. Other
+misrepresentations may also have been made against us; but we were
+neither able to discover them, nor the actual intentions entertained
+towards us.
+
+When the ship was ready to sail, and I thought to quit Talcaguana in a
+few days, I returned to Conception to take leave of the President
+Freire. While on the road, being mounted on a spirited horse, I had got
+a little the start of my companions, and was stopping on a height to
+contemplate the beautiful landscape around me, when a well-dressed young
+man, coming from the direction of the town, suddenly met me, stood
+still, looking attentively at me for some moments, and then asked if I
+were the Captain of the Russian frigate. On my answering in the
+affirmative, after ascertaining that we were not observed, he said, "You
+are aware that the two parties in this country are differently disposed
+towards you. The day after to-morrow the officers of the regiment in
+Talcaguana will give you a farewell ball, when they intend to overpower
+the Russian officers, and take them prisoners. I have adopted this
+method of making you acquainted with the design; be on your guard." With
+these words he disappeared among the high shrubs. As soon as my
+companions came up, I took Mendiburu aside, and told him what I had just
+heard. Honourable and warm-hearted, my friend at first grew pale with
+astonishment and vexation; but, after a few moments' consideration, he
+felt convinced, and assured me, that the thing was impossible, and that
+my unknown monitor must be in error. At the same time we both
+determined, immediately on our arrival in Conception, to mention the
+circumstance to the President. Freire received me in a very friendly
+manner, and so confidently affirmed the project attributed to his
+officers, to be a mere "coinage of the brain" of my informant, that I
+trusted to his opinion, and thought no more of it, especially as our own
+ball had furnished a proof how easily the silliest and most groundless
+reports could gain credit.
+
+After leaving the President, I passed the remainder of the day, and
+slept, at the house of my friend Mendiburu. As I was preparing to go to
+bed, I heard a gentle knock at my room door; I opened it, and a servant
+of the house came timidly in. He told me that he was a Spaniard, and had
+been a sailor on board a frigate captured by the Chilians, and that his
+present master had taken him into his service, when a prisoner of war.
+He then gave me, under the most earnest injunctions not to betray him,
+the same caution which I had before received, adding some curses on the
+Chilian Government and people, whom he declared to be altogether a set
+of vagabonds and thieves. This repeated warning was too striking not to
+excite some apprehension. I took all the circumstances into
+consideration; and though the motive for such a proceeding remained
+perfectly incomprehensible, I still resolved to take measures for my
+security, in case it should be really attempted. I passed a sleepless
+night, and early in the morning bade adieu to my kind host, to whom I
+was unable to impart my new cause of anxiety, and hastened back to
+Talcaguana. On my arrival there, I found cards inviting myself and all
+my officers to a ball on the following evening: so far, therefore, the
+information I had received was correct. To avoid the appearance of
+suspicion, I accepted the invitation, and went to the ball accompanied
+by a few of my officers. The rest remained on board the ship, having
+placed her so as to bring her guns to bear upon the house in which the
+ball was given, and to command the respect of the neighbourhood. Thus
+Talcaguana was at our mercy; nor had we any thing to fear, either from
+the armed corvette, or the battery on shore; the former being so
+situated that it must needs have struck to our first broadside, and the
+latter mounting only six guns quite unfit for use, and resting upon
+broken carriages. We had also removed our observatory, and conveyed all
+our effects on board. These imposing preparations did not in all
+probability remain unobserved; at all events, the ball passed off
+quietly enough; but it was remarkable that very few of the officers who
+had given it were present; and instead of the gaiety which had reigned
+on the two former occasions, the greatest constraint was evident in the
+deportment of the company, who separated at an unusually early hour.
+
+At daybreak we weighed anchor, to resume our voyage; but before we were
+in motion, my faithful friend Mendiburu, who had travelled in the night
+from Conception, came on board with the news that a Chilian frigate and
+a corvette, which had arrived two days before from Valparaiso with
+troops, now lay at anchor at the mouth of the bay, and had received
+orders to prevent our departure. He had no idea what could have induced
+his government, against which he was excessively indignant, to meditate
+such an outrage; but he felt assured that the ships were by no means in
+a condition to obey. When in full sail, I parted from Mendiburu, for the
+second time, with hearty thanks for his sympathy and assistance.
+
+I now ordered the ship and guns to be prepared for battle, in case it
+should prove necessary to force our way out. We proceeded with a fresh
+and favouring breeze so rapidly, that in an hour's time we could
+distinguish the two vessels lying at anchor near the island of
+Quiquirino. As we approached, a gun was fired from the frigate, on which
+signal both ships got under sail, and took a direction that would enable
+them to oppose our progress. No longer doubting their hostile
+intentions, I lessened my sail to make the ship more manageable during
+the expected engagement. The matches were lighted, and every one stood
+at his post; but the Chilian frigate, a bad sailer, having run too far
+to leeward, could not come up to the assistance of the corvette which
+endeavoured to dispute our passage; but clearly perceiving, when within
+gun-shot, that we were prepared to resist an attack, found it most
+prudent to sail peaceably on, contenting herself with calling something
+to us through a trumpet, which we could not understand. Pursuing our
+course in an opposite direction, we were soon at a considerable distance
+from the corvette, and then saw the frigate tacking to follow us; but
+having already greatly the advantage, and the mouth of the bay clear
+before us, we rehoisted our sails, and without waiting for further
+evidence of Chilian hostility, stood out to sea; thus escaping attempts
+upon our liberty, the real motive of which, perhaps, was a desire to
+employ our ships in the transport of troops to Chiloe. The two English
+whalers had already been taken possession of for this purpose, without
+the consent of their captains.
+
+The result of our observations on land are as follows:
+
+  Latitude from Mendiburu's house in Talcaguana      36 deg. 42' 15"
+  West Longitude                                     73 deg.  8' 20"
+  Declination of the needle                          14 deg. East
+  Inclination                                        80 deg.  4'
+
+The tide is here quite imperceptible. During the whole time of our stay,
+Reaumur's thermometer stood between 15 and 17 degrees.
+
+
+
+
+THE
+
+DANGEROUS ARCHIPELAGO.
+
+
+
+
+THE
+
+DANGEROUS ARCHIPELAGO.
+
+
+The many islands composing this Archipelago, and which the little
+coralline insects have built in the midst of the ocean, are so low, that
+they are invisible at a very trifling distance. From this cause they
+have often, in darkness or bad weather, proved dangerous to navigation,
+and have thence derived their name. It was my intention now, to
+ascertain exactly the geographical position of the islands which I had
+discovered on my former voyage. O Tahaiti was to serve as a point from
+which to determine the longitude, and at the same time to furnish us
+with provisions.
+
+I directed my course to this Archipelago, between the parallels of 15
+and 16 degrees of South latitude, because this is not the usual track
+of merchants' ships, nor has it been taken in voyages of discovery, so
+that I thought it not improbable that we might fall in with other
+unknown islands. In pursuance of this plan, we steered north-west, for
+the above mentioned parallel. An uninterrupted fresh south wind having
+carried us six hundred and sixty miles forwards in three days, brought
+us into the hot climate so suddenly, that we were much inconvenienced by
+it. The island of Juan Fernandez, whither the Spaniards, when masters in
+Chili, used to banish criminals and republicans, lay on our left, and
+the little uninhabited rocky islands of Felix and Ambrosia at a little
+distance on our right. After rapidly gaining the Southern Tropic, our
+voyage, though pleasant, was far more tranquil; the slightness of the
+motion between the Tropics, admits of employment on board a ship, for
+which a sailor has generally little opportunity; even drawings may be
+executed in the neatest manner.
+
+On the 17th February we found ourselves under eighteen degrees of South
+latitude, and a hundred and five degrees longitude. The weather
+continued fine and serene, and our men expressed a wish to interrupt the
+uniformity of their lives, by getting up a play. The theatre was
+prepared, the play-bills given out, and the orchestra had even made the
+signal for the company to assemble, when our merriment was suddenly
+changed into terror and distress; another sailor fell overboard. He had
+been keeping watch on the fore-mast, to provide for our safety against
+land and shallows, in this untried region, and having neglected to
+secure his own, fell a sacrifice to his thoughtlessness. Being injured
+by the fall, he immediately sunk, and all our efforts to save him proved
+fruitless. Separated as we had long been from our native country, the
+loss of a member of our little society, thus bound together through good
+or ill fortune, was sensibly felt; the poor fellow was, besides, one of
+our best sailors: in the most violent storms, he had often executed the
+most dangerous tasks at the mast-head with the greatest skill, and now
+in the finest weather, with the ship moving in a manner scarcely
+perceptible, was he destined to end, thus suddenly, his active and
+useful life.
+
+Having sailed four thousand miles in three weeks, since we left Chili,
+we reached the neighbourhood of the dangerous Archipelago. By degrees we
+now lost, contrary to all rule in this climate, the south-east
+trade-wind, which had hitherto been so favourable to us, and contrary
+winds from the West and North brought us very bad weather. An opinion
+has been hitherto entertained, that the coral islands, from lying so low
+and in small masses, could produce no change in the atmosphere, and that
+the trade-winds, to which they offered no obstruction, would continue to
+blow uninterruptedly in their neighbourhood. Repeated experience has,
+however, convinced me that this is an error, and that these little
+islands, at certain seasons, often cause variations from the ordinary
+tropical weather.
+
+On the 26th of February, we entered 16 deg. of latitude, and 129 deg. of
+longitude. The wind blew from the West: black clouds labouring upwards,
+covered the sky; violent and sudden gusts expended their fury on us, and
+lightnings flashed from every corner of the horizon. The night was
+really dreadful, and the tempest continued to rage, through a darkness
+which, but for the lightning, would have been total, while torrents of
+rain swept our decks. Nor did the return of light bring us much relief;
+when about noon the heavens cleared for a short time, and allowed us a
+little respite; the storm set in again with renewed violence, and for
+four days and nights we were condemned to struggle with this tremendous
+weather. It is surprising how such tempests can arise at so great a
+distance from land. In the ship Rurik, in this same region, at the same
+season of year, I have before met with similar though scarcely such
+furious storms. On the 2nd of March the tropical wind returned, and
+brought with it clearer weather. It was indeed very hot, (Reaumur's
+thermometer did not fall even in the night below 24,) but the whole crew
+continued in good health. On this evening we calculated that we were in
+15 deg. 15' latitude, and 139 deg. 40' longitude; and just as the sun was
+sinking, the man at the mast-head called out that land was in sight. The
+pleasure of making a new discovery set all our telescopes in motion, and
+before night set in we plainly distinguished a very low, thickly wooded
+island. Since no navigator, to my knowledge, had ever been here before,
+and the newest charts described nothing but empty space, we conceived we
+had a right to consider ourselves the first discoverers, and named the
+island, after our ship, Predpriatie: we now tacked to stand out to sea
+for the night, and at break of day again made towards the island, under
+feelings of strong excitement. The many telescopes which our eager
+curiosity pointed towards its object, seemed each endued with the
+magical power of conveying different images to the sight. Some of us saw
+what others saw not, till these delusions of the imagination vanished
+before the conviction produced by rising columns of smoke visible to
+all, that the island was inhabited. We could soon afterwards, from the
+mast-head, perceive its entire extent. The dazzling whiteness of the
+coral shore fringed a bright green ground upon which rose a forest of
+palms; and we distinguished canoes moving upon a large lake in the
+centre of the island. By rapid degrees, we approached so near that every
+object became perceptible with the naked eye. A tall, strong,
+dark-coloured race of naked savages were assembling on the shore, gazing
+on the ship in great agitation, with gestures of astonishment. Some were
+arming with long spears and clubs, others kindling piles of wood,
+probably, that the smoke might be a signal to neighbouring islands of
+their requiring assistance against the unknown sea-monster. From pretty
+huts of plaited reeds, under the shade of bread-fruit trees, the women,
+some of them with children in their arms, were flying to conceal
+themselves in the forest. Such was the commotion our appearance
+occasioned in this little community. A few heroes summoned courage
+enough to advance, with threatening attitudes, to the margin of the
+shore; but no single canoe, though many lay on the coast, ventured to
+approach us. Judging from their size and the good arrangement of their
+sails, these canoes seem intended for visits to other and even distant
+islands. We sailed quite round our new discovery without finding any
+haven by which we could effect a landing; and the sea being tempestuous,
+with a high and boisterous surf, we were compelled to renounce our
+desire of becoming more intimately acquainted with the Predpriatians.
+The unclouded sky enabled us, nevertheless, to determine by observation
+the exact latitude and longitude of this little island, whose greatest
+extent is only four miles from E.N.E. to W.S.W. The latitude of its
+central point is 15 deg. 58' 18" South, and its longitude, 140 deg. 11'
+30". The variation of the needle was 4 deg. East.
+
+When we had finished our observations, I steered a westerly course for
+the island of Araktschief, discovered in the year 1819 by the Russian
+Captain Bellingshausen, in order to convince myself that it was actually
+not the one we had just quitted.
+
+At four o'clock in the afternoon we could already see this island from
+the mast-head, and we reached it before sunset. It bears, with respect
+to size and circumstances, so close a resemblance to that of
+Predpriatie, that they might easily be mistaken, if their relative
+situations were not exactly known.
+
+From our observation, we found the latitude of the centre of the island
+of Araktschief 15 deg. 51' 20" South; and the longitude 140 deg. 50' 50".
+According to Captain Bellingshausen's chart, the latitude is 15 deg. 51',
+the longitude 140 deg. 52'. Unable to discover any traces of inhabitants
+on this island, we should have supposed there were none, had not Captain
+Bellingshausen ascertained the contrary.
+
+At night we retired to some distance from the island and lay-to, that we
+might not, in the darkness, strike on any unknown land. At break of day
+I steered a north-west course, to see the island of Romanzow, (which I
+had formerly discovered when with the ship Rurik,) and convince myself
+of the accuracy of the astronomical observations then made. At eight
+o'clock in the morning we could see the north point of the group of
+Wolchonsky Islands, recently discovered by Captain Bellingshausen. When
+they lay seven miles off us, to the South, we found the longitude,
+according to our chronometers, 142 deg. 2' 38". Bellingshausen considered
+it to be 142 deg. 7' 42".
+
+From failure of wind, we could not make the island of Romanzow till the
+morning of the 8th of March. We then took advantage of the clearness of
+the heavens to ascertain, by the distance between the sun and moon, its
+exact longitude, which is 144 deg. 28'. According to the observations we
+had made in the ship Rurik, it was 144 deg. 24', consequently there was a
+difference of only four minutes.
+
+We now steered due West, in order to learn whether the island which, on
+my voyage in the Rurik, I had named after Admiral Spiridow, was really a
+new discovery, or, as has been said, only the most southerly of the King
+George's Islands. A fresh wind favoured our course, and at six o'clock
+in the afternoon we could see this island, my discovery of which has
+been denied, lying before us at a distance of six miles westward.
+
+At the same time, we could distinguish from the mast-head the southern
+part of another island, lying due North, with open water between the
+two. We were in 14 deg. 41' 36" South latitude, and 144 deg. 55'
+longitude. During the night we were becalmed, but in the morning a fresh
+breeze sprang up directly in our teeth, and the current carried us so far
+to the South, that, even from the mast, we could no longer see land. Under
+these circumstances, to attempt to regain the Spiridow Island would have
+been attended by too great loss of time; so that we remained uncertain
+whether this and the other, which we saw in the North, were the two King
+George's Islands or not. I can only say, that if they really are so,
+their discoverer has given their geographical position very
+inaccurately.
+
+The south-east trade-wind had ceased to befriend us, and shifting gusts
+from the north-west and south blew with such violence as frequently to
+tear our sails, accompanied by incessant rain and storm. The sea being
+at the same time remarkably calm, proved that we were surrounded by
+islands, and that, in consequence, the greatest caution was required in
+sailing, especially as the currents in this region are often very
+strong. We soon saw land directly before us; and as in the neighbourhood
+of all coral islands the depth of the sea cannot be sounded at a
+distance of fifty fathoms from the shore, we approached within a mile of
+it. This island stretches ten miles in length, from East to West, and is
+only four miles broad; it appeared to be a narrow strip of land,
+thickly overgrown with low bushes, surrounding a lake in the centre.
+Sea-birds only, of which we saw a vast number, appeared to inhabit this
+waste. The latitude of the middle of this island we found to be 15 deg.
+27', and its longitude 145 deg. 31' 12". According to the chart of Admiral
+Krusenstern, it may be the island called Carlshof, discovered in the
+year 1722, by Roggewin, the geographical position of which is given
+differently on almost every chart, and whose very existence has been
+disputed. We were now in the midst of the dangerous Archipelago, and
+consulted our safety by riding every night only in parts which we had
+surveyed during the day.
+
+After reiterated nightly storms and rains, we shaped our course, with
+full sails, on the return of fine weather, due East, for the Palliser
+Islands discovered by Captain Cook, and reached them in a few hours. On
+board the Rurik, I had only seen their northern side, and I now wished,
+astronomically, to determine the southern. Cook mentions these islands
+very superficially, so that navigators have fallen into many errors
+concerning them. The group consists of a number of small islands
+connected by coral reefs, which form a circular chain, and enclose a
+large piece of water. When we had reached the southern point of the east
+Pallisers, we saw a ridge stretching ten miles westward to two small
+islands, and thence taking a northern direction to unite itself at a
+considerable distance with larger ones.
+
+Cook, from his own account, did not approach near enough to see this
+ridge, and from a distance mistook the two little woody islands it
+embraces for the most southerly of a distinct cluster, which he calls
+the fourth group of Palliser Islands. I can maintain that there are only
+three such groups, as the map which accompanies this volume will show.
+At noon we found our latitude to be 15 deg. 42' 19", and the longitude
+146 deg. 21' 6".
+
+The above-mentioned two small islands on the reef lay directly North,
+and the southern part of the first cluster of Pallisers was no longer
+visible. Viewed from this spot, the smaller ones might have been
+mistaken by us also for part of another group, if we had not previously
+ascertained that they were connected with the first by means of the
+reef. The second and third group could also be seen from this point; the
+former to the S.E. the latter S.W.
+
+At six o'clock in the evening, we found ourselves near the eastern point
+of the third group, and saw from the mast-head the Greigh Islands,
+discovered by Captain Bellingshausen. We now steered between these two
+groups, in order to free ourselves from the Archipelago, and regain the
+open sea. Again the night was tempestuous; but a calm occurred in the
+course of it, which, had it lasted longer, would have been dangerous, as
+a strong current was carrying us towards the shore. The morning sun, as
+usual in the Torrid Zone, dispersed the clouds and restored the
+beautiful blue of the tropical sky. We soon lost sight of land, but a
+black cloud still lowered in that part of the horizon where it had
+disappeared; a proof how powerfully these masses of coral attract
+thunder clouds. We now recovered the south-east wind, and favoured by
+it, took the shortest way to O Tahaiti. All the longitudes in the
+dangerous Archipelago which I have given, (without entering into the
+manner in which they were calculated,) are made out by means of the
+chronometer. This, on arriving at O Tahaiti, was found six minutes fifty
+seconds wrong; and the longitudes here given have been rectified
+accordingly.
+
+The following is from our observations the situation of the Palliser
+Islands:--
+
+  South point of the first group.        Lat.  15 deg.  34' 25"
+                                         Long. 146 deg.  6' 49"
+
+  The two small islands to the West
+  of the first group                     Lat.  15 deg.  30' 15"
+                                         Long. 146 deg. 20' 50"
+
+  The Eastern point of the third group   Lat.  15 deg.  44' 52"
+                                         Long. 146 deg. 28' 2".
+
+Most of the islands of this Archipelago are inhabited, but hitherto
+little is known of the natives, who are shy, and endeavour to avoid any
+intercourse with navigators. Byron landed by force on one of these
+islands; in the struggle many of the inhabitants were killed, the rest
+put to flight, and the provision of cocoa-nuts found in their huts
+plundered. Tradition may perhaps have exaggerated this attack. Cook also
+permitted some of his crew to land, who indeed met with no resistance,
+but their presents were received with the greatest indifference, and
+stones were thrown after them on their departure. Captain
+Bellingshausen, in the year 1820, wished to land on one of these
+islands, but the natives opposed his intention so seriously that he
+relinquished it rather than use force. These people resemble the O
+Tahaitians, their neighbours and relatives, in appearance and language;
+and when the latter are farther advanced in civilization, it may be
+presumed that intercourse with them will effect a considerable
+amelioration in the condition of the other South Sea islanders.
+
+
+
+
+O TAHAITI.
+
+
+
+
+O TAHAITI.
+
+
+This beautiful island, so richly endowed by nature with every thing that
+its simple and innocent natives can require for the enjoyment of
+existence, was perhaps first seen by the Spanish voyager Quiras, when,
+in the year 1606, he made an expedition from Lima, "to win," as a
+countryman of his expresses it, "souls for Heaven, and kingdoms for
+Spain." Since, however, the position pointed out by him is extremely
+incorrect, it is uncertain whether the island which he called Sagittaria
+was really O Tahaiti or not. More probably, the honour of the discovery
+belongs to the English Captain Wallis, who in the year 1767 landed
+there, and took possession of the country by a solemn declaration, in
+the name of his King. As, however, the Tahaitians did not understand
+him, this act remained unknown to them; and, notwithstanding a
+subsequent renewal, has fallen into oblivion. Captain Wallis gave it the
+name of King George the Third's Island.
+
+Eight months after him, the French Captain Bougainville visited it; and
+not knowing that Captain Wallis had been there before him, considered
+himself the first discoverer, and called it, from the most remarkable
+custom of the natives, _Nouvelle Cythere_, but heard that they
+themselves called it Tahaiti, or with the article, O Tahaiti; and this
+name it has retained.
+
+The celebrated Englishman, Cook, stopped there in each of his three
+voyages, between the years 1769 and 1778. He remained much longer in
+communication with the inhabitants than any of his predecessors had
+done; brought back Omai, to whom in London it had been attempted to give
+an European education, to his native land, and made use of the
+narrations he obtained from him during the voyage. Since that time, Cook
+and his companions, particularly the two Forsters, father and son, have
+given us considerable information concerning the condition of the
+Tahaitians before their conversion to the Christian faith.
+
+To estimate the effect of this great change, we must compare Christian
+Tahaiti as it now is, with the accounts these early voyagers have left
+us of its heathen times; and as every reader may not be conveniently
+able to do so, a short review of them may not be considered unwelcome.
+
+The Society Islands, of which Tahaiti is the largest, are, like many
+others, either fragments of a Southern continent swallowed up by
+earthquake, or a mass of rock ejected from the bottom of the sea by
+subterranean fire, which gradually becoming covered with a fertile soil,
+is now adorned by the most beautiful vegetation. It consists of two
+peninsulas united by a narrow isthmus, which together are about one
+hundred and twenty miles in circumference; towards the centre of each
+rise wild rocky mountains, intersected by deep ravines, from the side of
+which, thickly wooded almost to their summits, flow numerous streamlets
+of pure transparent water, forming the most picturesque cascades as
+they descend from every direction into the sea. The high mountains are
+uninhabited, and the settlements made only in the valleys, more
+especially in the low land between the mountains and the sea-shore.
+
+In these charming amphitheatrical landscapes, their houses, consisting
+only of roofs resting on stakes, surrounded and shaded by bananas,
+bread-fruit and cocoa-trees, are scattered at small distances from each
+other.
+
+Attached to every house are enclosed fields, where the proprietors
+cultivate their yams, sweet potatoes, and other wholesome and pleasant
+roots, which form their chief nourishment.
+
+The rest of the cultivated land is filled by plantations of bananas and
+plantains, or little forests of cocoa and bread-fruit trees, so
+luxuriantly interwoven, that the burning rays of the sun cannot
+penetrate to injure the bright verdure which clothes the soil. The
+neatly kept grass footpaths leading through these groves from one
+dwelling to another, are variegated with flowers of the richest colours
+and most fragrant perfumes, and enlivened by the notes of innumerable
+birds arrayed in all the splendid hues of the Tropics. Although Tahaiti
+is only seventeen degrees from the Equator, the heat is so much
+moderated by refreshing breezes that it is very supportable even to an
+European. Bougainville never found it above twenty-two, and often under
+eighteen degrees of Reaumur. That indeed was during the winter; but even
+in January, the middle of the Tahaitian summer, the atmosphere is much
+cooled by the frequent rains. The air is usually dry, clear, and
+particularly healthy; sick people brought ashore from a sea voyage
+recover rapidly. Here are neither ants, musquitoes, nor any of the
+tormenting insects so common in tropical climates; no beast of prey, no
+destructive worm nor serpent; even the scorpion (of which a small sort
+is to be met with) here loses its poison. The only plague of this kind
+is a large rat, which does much mischief in the fields, and sometimes
+even bites the Tahaitians during their sleep.
+
+Bougainville says, "The inhabitants of Tahaiti consist of two distinct
+races, which remain such, although their language and manners are the
+same, and they appear to mingle indiscriminately with each other. One,
+the most numerous, produces the tallest men, commonly six feet and
+upwards; and I have never seen better proportioned, or finer forms. A
+sculptor could not choose a more suitable model for a Mars or a
+Hercules. There is nothing to distinguish their features from those of
+Europeans; and if they were clothed, and less exposed to the air and the
+burning sun, they would be quite as fair. Their hair is usually black
+(Wallis saw fair people, and Banks even Albinos). The other race is of
+middle stature, with coarse curling hair, and resembles the Mulatto in
+complexion and features."
+
+Cook and his companions considered this difference among the Tahaitians
+to arise from the circumstance of the tall fair race, (called Eris,
+which is pronounced _Yeri_,) the more distinguished class, being less
+exposed to the sun and to hard labour, and their women more reserved and
+less licentious.
+
+We were however more inclined to agree with Bougainville, who supposed
+the dark Tahaitians to be the original inhabitants, and the Yeris
+invaders, who at some remote period had subjugated them; for the latter
+are the exclusive possessors of the land; the others obtaining only a
+certain remuneration in fruits and vegetables for cultivating the fields
+and plantations of their masters. The kings and all great personages are
+of this race, which is held by the common people in much veneration.
+
+That the language and customs of both races should have assimilated is
+natural; but with respect to their intermarriages, Bougainville was in
+error; the pride of the Yeris keeps them aloof from any such
+connections, which, had they subsisted, must have long since destroyed
+the broad and acknowledged line of distinction. It is, however, only
+fair to confess, that this hypothesis of an invasion is unsupported by
+any Tahaitian tradition.
+
+"The men of both races," continues this traveller, "allow the lower part
+of the beard to grow, but shave the whiskers and the upper lip. Some cut
+their hair short off, others bind it together at the top of the head;
+both hair and beard they grease with the oil of the cocoa-nut. A girdle
+round the middle often serves for their only clothing; but the people
+of rank generally wear a large piece of stuff which falls as low as the
+knee. This is the principal garment of the women, who put it on in a
+very becoming manner. The female Yeris, who never expose themselves to
+the sun, and wear a hat of reeds adorned with flowers, which shades the
+face, are fairer than the men: their features are handsome, but they are
+chiefly remarkable for the beauty of their figures, which are not
+spoiled by the artifices of European fashions. They paint their cheeks
+red, and colour the lower part of the body dark blue, as an ornament and
+a distinction of rank.
+
+"Both sexes are tattooed, and both hang rows of pearls or flowers
+through holes pierced in their ears. The greatest cleanliness reigns
+among them; they bathe regularly, and wash themselves before and after
+meals."
+
+The descriptions of other travellers agree perfectly with this; all
+appear to feel the greatest kindness for these "nurselings of joyous
+nature," as some one calls them; and to have been particularly charmed
+with the women, of whom Wallis says, "They are all handsome, and some
+excessively lovely."
+
+The companions of Cook also speak in the highest terms of their
+attractions. Their tall and slender figures; the form of their faces,
+which is agreeable, though rather round than oval; the tender
+transparency of their skin; the complexions which, whether fair or
+brown, are always blooming; the expressive eyes, now flashing fire and
+now swimming in tenderness; the small white, even teeth, and fascinating
+smile, are rapturously described by the younger Forster.
+
+The nose only is defective in these beauties, it is usually too flat,
+but may sometimes be seen as perfectly formed as in the females of
+Europe.
+
+The curse, "in the sweat of thy brow shalt thou eat bread," falls
+harmless on the Tahaitians. Three bread-fruit trees are sufficient for a
+man's subsistence during a year; and he has here only to stretch out his
+hand to obtain this and many other fruits whose variety may please his
+palate. Nutritious roots are cultivated with great ease; and the sea
+yields abundance of shell and other fish, for the trifling trouble of
+catching it: the brooks also contain fish, and a species of crab. The
+opulent eat fowls and pigs roasted over hot stones in a hole in the
+ground, the flavour of which is very agreeable even to an European; and,
+by way of variety, they roast _dogs_ which have been fed upon
+vegetables, and are considered great delicacies.
+
+Several families often live together in the same house, in the greatest
+concord. Their furniture consists simply of a few ingeniously-woven mats
+for sleeping on, and some vessels made of gourds and cocoa-nut shells.
+
+The disposition of the Tahaitians is gentle, benevolent, open, gay, and
+peaceable, although some of them show scars of wounds received in war,
+which prove that they are not deficient in courage. To hatred and
+revenge they are wholly strangers. Hardly and unjustly as Cook sometimes
+treated them, he was pardoned immediately that he required their
+assistance, and showed the slightest wish to pacify them. Individuals of
+his crew often ventured to pass the nights alone and unarmed upon the
+island: they were every where received with the greatest hospitality,
+and overwhelmed with marks of friendship. The simple inhabitants, wholly
+devoid of envy, rejoiced in each other's good fortune, and when one
+received a present, all seemed equally gratified. Their feelings readily
+broke out either into smiles or tears: even men were often seen to weep;
+and their joys and sorrows were as fugitive as those of children. Nor
+are their minds more stable: notwithstanding the great curiosity with
+which they gazed at and required an explanation of every object in the
+ship, it was as impossible, says the elder Forster, to rivet their
+attention for any time, as to make quicksilver stand still.
+
+They seemed incapable of either mental or bodily effort, and their time
+was passed in indolence and enjoyment. They were, however, skilful in
+manufacturing a soft paper from the barks of trees; nets and lines from
+the fibres of the cocoa-nut; and hooks from muscle-shells; in weaving
+their rush mats, and especially in building canoes and war-boats. The
+latter, large enough to contain forty men and upwards, were made of
+planks laboriously split from the trunks of trees with sharp stones,
+for want of better implements, fastened together with cocoa threads, and
+well caulked. The value they set on our axes and nails may therefore be
+easily imagined.
+
+Like all islanders, they are expert seamen, but especially dexterous in
+swimming and diving. They fetch any thing with ease from the bottom of
+the sea, even at very considerable depths. The upsetting of a boat
+causes them no uneasiness; men and women swim round it till they succeed
+in righting it again; and then, baling out the water, continue their
+voyage with the utmost unconcern.
+
+These voyages, sometimes extending to considerable distances, have made
+the observation of the stars, their only guides, absolutely necessary to
+them. They have thus attained some astronomical knowledge.
+
+They distinguish the planets from the fixed stars, and call the former
+by particular names. They divide the year into thirteen months of
+twenty-nine days each, with the exception of one, which has less,
+apparently for the purpose of reconciling this lunar with a solar year.
+The day and night are each divided into six parts of two hours each,
+which they measure exactly in the day by the position of the sun, and at
+night by the stars. Medical men have considered them to possess much
+skill in surgery, from the kindly healing of wounds which, by their
+scars, have evidently been severe.
+
+The Tahaitians are particularly distinguished by their superior
+civilization from all other savages, among whom indeed they scarcely
+deserve to be ranked. Their language sounds agreeably, and is not
+difficult to learn. The vowels occur much more frequently than the
+consonants, our c, g, k, s, and p, being entirely wanting. Cook and his
+companions made considerable progress in it; and one of them says--"It
+is rich in figurative modes of expression; and I am convinced that a
+nearer acquaintance with it would place it on a level with the most
+distinguished for boldness and power of imagery."
+
+By means of this knowledge of their language, however imperfect, many
+details concerning the religion of the Tahaitians were gained. The elder
+Forster enters rather at large into the subject.
+
+They believed in one supreme God, _Athua-rahai_, creator and governor
+of the world, and of all other gods. They gave him a consort, who
+however was not of the same nature, but of a material and very firm
+substance, and therefore called _O-te-Papa_, that is to say, _Rock_.
+From this pair proceeded a goddess of the moon, the gods of the stars,
+the winds, and the sea, and the protecting deities of the several
+islands. After the chief god had created the sun, he conveyed his
+consort, the mighty Rock, from the West to the East over the sea: in
+their progress, some portions of her substance separated from her, and
+formed the islands.
+
+Besides the gods of the second rank, they believed also in inferior
+deities, and in a wicked genius, who killed men suddenly at the
+requisition of the priests--an article of faith which this order
+doubtless found very convenient. They also supposed that a genius dwelt
+in every man, thinking and feeling in him, and separated himself from
+the body after death, but without removing from it; often inhabiting the
+wooden images which are erected in the burial-places, but sometimes
+stealing at night into their habitations, and killing the sleepers,
+whose hearts and entrails he devoured. This belief in ghosts is perhaps
+not more universal in Tahaiti than among civilized nations.
+
+According to another of Cook's companions, the supreme God united
+departed souls with his own existence, which was signified by the
+phrase, "He eats them." This was purification, after which the soul, or
+the genius, reached the abode of eternal happiness. If a man, for some
+months before his death, had kept himself apart from women, he did not
+require this purification, but went direct to Heaven. The pride of the
+Yeris prompted them to believe in a Heaven peculiar to themselves, where
+they should associate only with their equals in birth.
+
+The Tahaitians of rank had each a _Marai_ sacred to themselves, and
+which served for their religious assemblies. The greatest and most
+solemn of these meetings were held at the Marai of the Kings. Here the
+priests harangued the people; and here was performed the rite which
+stained the otherwise amiable character of these islanders--the offering
+of human sacrifices! Cook was once present at one of these detestable
+oblations, and describes it circumstantially. Its object was to
+propitiate the assistance of the Gods, in a war about to be undertaken.
+
+The victim was always of the lower class. He was first killed, and the
+ceremonies were afterwards performed by the priests, and many prayers
+recited, in presence of the King and people. One of the formalities was
+the presentation of the left eye to the King, which however he did not
+receive. From this, Cook infers that the Tahaitians had at some period
+been eaters of human flesh, and that this morsel was offered to the King
+as a delicacy. If this conjecture be well-founded, which I think it is
+not, so horrible an appetite must have long since disappeared, as not a
+trace of it now remains. It is besides altogether contrary to the
+character and manners of the people. So, indeed, is the oblation of
+human victims; but this horrible rite had certainly been introduced by
+the priests, for the purpose of attracting towards their office an
+increased degree of veneration and awe. The burial of the dead was
+accompanied by many religious ceremonies, but with the birth of a
+child, or the celebration of marriage, their religion was no way
+concerned.
+
+If a woman bore her lover a child, which he acknowledged to be his, the
+marriage was concluded without further ceremony, but was easily
+dissolved and a new connexion formed.
+
+A married man would sometimes entertain a concubine, but never had more
+than one wife. The kings only formed an exception to this rule. The last
+monarch married at the same time the four daughters of a neighbouring
+king, and during our visit they were all living and respected as his
+widows. One only of them had brought him children; and when during the
+latter years of his government he became a convert to the Christian
+religion, this one only passed for his lawful consort.
+
+In both peninsulas of Tahaiti the form of government was monarchical,
+and each had its own king, assisted by a council of Yeris, whom he
+consulted on all important occasions. These were held in great
+veneration among the people. No one, not even a female or a Yeri of the
+highest rank, might appear before them without uncovering the upper part
+of the body--a token of respect which was usually paid only to the Gods
+in prayer or in passing a Marai. Before the princesses, the female sex
+only uncovered themselves. All his subjects were much attached to the
+sovereign, who reigned under a most singular law of succession.
+
+As soon as a son was born to him, the sovereignty passed from the king
+to the infant, in whose name, and during whose minority only, the father
+continued to exercise the Regency.
+
+The several districts were governed by deputies chosen from the class of
+Yeris, who were also the sole administrators of justice; which amongst
+this well-disposed people was generally very mild. The punishments in a
+great measure depend on the injured party, and consist chiefly in
+stripes. A native assured me that thieves are sometimes hung on a tree;
+but they more frequently escape with a few strokes, or sometimes
+altogether with impunity.
+
+The two kingdoms of Tahaiti were often in a state of mutual warfare,
+though they sometimes fought as allies against a common enemy. Cook and
+his companions saw the preparations for a war with the neighbouring
+island of Eimeo, and were present at a review of his naval force by the
+King O Tu. From the number of warriors who manned this fleet, the elder
+Forster estimated the entire population at not less than a hundred and
+thirty thousand souls. According to his opinion, Tahaiti was capable of
+containing and supporting an infinitely greater number of inhabitants,
+and he therefore conjectured that in a short time it would be found
+greatly increased. Experience has unfortunately proved this inference to
+be erroneous, as will appear in the sequel.
+
+Notwithstanding their usually gentle character, they treated their
+prisoners of war with barbarity, but in their defence may be urged the
+well-known fact, that in the heat of battle an unwonted rage will
+sometimes take possession of the best disposed minds, even amongst
+civilized nations; and it was only while this unnatural excitement
+lasted that the conduct of the Tahaitians laid them open to the
+imputation of cruelty.
+
+Both sexes and all ranks were given to stealing; and so dexterous were
+they in plundering the Europeans, that notwithstanding the utmost
+vigilance and precaution, few days passed without something being
+stolen. The young, beautiful, and noble Marorai stole, as the younger
+Forster relates, a pair of sheets from the cabin of an officer, where
+she had remained unnoticed during the general confusion occasioned by
+the ship running aground. Even the princesses appropriated trifles
+whenever they had an opportunity. Our experience, however, proves that
+the lessons they have received from their Christian pastors on the
+disgracefulness of theft have had a practically good effect.
+
+Neither can I deny that the morals of the Tahaitians were very
+exceptionable in another point, in which also the influence of the
+Missionaries has been beneficially exerted. If the modesty which
+conceals the mysteries of love among civilized nations be the offspring
+only of their intellectual culture, it is not surprising that a wholly
+uninstructed people should be insensible to such a feeling, and in its
+unconsciousness should even have established public solemnities which
+would strike us as excessively indelicate.
+
+The coarse hospitality of the Tahaitians went so far as to present to a
+welcome guest, a sister, a daughter, or even a wife; and they have been
+known to sell them for pearls, pieces of glass, or implements of iron.
+The women who distributed their favours indiscriminately, were almost
+always of the lowest class; but a most licentious association called
+Ehrioi, including both sexes, existed among the higher. Renouncing
+matrimony, and the hopes of progeny, its members rambled about the
+island leading the most dissolute lives; and if a child was born among
+them, the laws of the society compelled its murder, or the expulsion of
+the mother. The men were all warriors, and stood in high estimation
+among the people. The Ehrioi themselves were proud of the title, and
+even the King O Tu belonged to this profligate institution, to which,
+fortunately, the Missionaries have put an end.
+
+Where such manners prevailed, and woman was regarded merely as an object
+of pleasure, she could not stand in very high estimation; and love, in
+its best sense, remained wholly unknown among them. Hence the women of
+Tahaiti, although not so much secluded as among many other nations, were
+not permitted to eat with the men, and when the King and the Royal
+Family visited Cook, on board his ship, he was obliged to entertain even
+the princesses in a separate cabin.
+
+The fidelity of a wife among the Tahaitians required that she should not
+favour any man without the knowledge and consent of her husband; and a
+beating was the punishment generally incurred by a violation of this
+duty.
+
+Among the failings of the Tahaitians, their love of the intoxicating
+liquor which they prepared from the much cultivated Ava root, must not
+be omitted. Nor have the Missionaries been wholly unsuccessful in this
+respect. The drink is no longer allowed to be prepared, nor even the
+root to be cultivated; but unfortunately, its place has been partly
+supplied by the introduction of our wine and brandy; we, however, never
+saw a drunken person.
+
+Having now noticed all that was reprehensible in the otherwise amiable
+character of the Ante-christian Tahaitian, I hope the reader, in
+consideration of his many good qualities, will forgive his faults, and,
+in a friendly disposition towards him, cast a glance upon his innocent
+amusements, which were chiefly derived from music, dancing, mock-fights,
+and theatrical representations.
+
+Their musical instruments were very simple, and of two kinds only: the
+one, a sort of flute, producing four notes, and blown with the nostrils;
+the other, a drum, made of the hollow trunk of a tree; but the
+accompanying songs, usually extempore poems, were pretty, and showed the
+delicacy of their ear. The girls excelled in the dance; the married
+women were forbidden to take part in it, and the men never did. The
+dancers executed a species of ballet, and, according to the judgment of
+travellers, they might with little trouble become capable of performing
+on our theatres. The English dances they soon learnt, and in the
+well-known hornpipe, especially, displayed much grace.
+
+The mock-fights were of course in imitation of their serious warfare,
+and they parried with admirable dexterity the blow of a club or thrust
+of a lance, by which otherwise they must have been severely wounded. The
+dramatic pieces were performed by both sexes, and sometimes by persons
+of the highest quality. They were of a mixed character, serious, and
+comic, but for want of a thorough acquaintance with the language, they
+have been very imperfectly described to us. Thus, oppressed by no care,
+burdened by no toil, tormented by no passion, seldom visited by
+sickness, their wants easily satisfied, and their pleasures often
+recurring, the Tahaitians passed a life of enjoyment under the
+magnificent sky of the tropics, and amid scenes worthy of Paradise.
+
+On the 12th of March, a beautiful bright morning, we had the pleasure to
+perceive Tahaiti before us, like a light cloud in the clear horizon. All
+that we had read of its loveliness now rose to our remembrance,
+heightened by the vivid colouring of the imagination; but seventy miles
+were yet to be traversed ere we could tread the land of expectation, and
+a very slow progress, occasioned by a flagging wind, tried our patience.
+We continued, however, to advance, and the light cloud became larger,
+and denser, and higher, soon assuming the appearance of three separate
+hills belonging to different islands; the highest point, eight thousand
+feet above the level of the sea, is the summit of a mountain,
+distinguished from the others by its conical form.
+
+We next recognized the large rugged masses of rock of the interior,
+which have a most romantic appearance. The country gradually unfolded
+all its charms; the luxuriant growth of the trees, even to the
+mountains' tops, reminded us of the scenery of Brazil, and the
+picturesque valleys, with their thickets of bread-fruit, orange, and
+cocoa-trees, their cultivated fields, and plantations of bananas, became
+at length distinctly visible.
+
+It was not till the 14th that we reached the Cape, called by Cook Cape
+Venus, because he there observed the transit of this planet over the
+sun; and from its beauty, it deserves to be named after the charming
+goddess herself. It is a low narrow tongue of land, running out
+northward from the island, thickly shadowed by cocoa-trees, and forming,
+by its curve, the harbour of Matarai, not a very secure one, but
+generally preferred by sailors on account of the celebrity bestowed on
+it by Cook.
+
+When we were still a few miles distant from Cape Venus, we fired a gun
+to draw attention to the flag hoisted at the fore-mast, as a signal for
+a pilot. We soon saw a European boat steering towards us; it brought us
+a pilot, who, to our great surprise, addressed us in the Russian
+language, having recognized our flag as belonging to that nation: he was
+an Englishman of the name of Williams, who had first been a sailor on
+board a merchant ship, afterwards entered the service of the Russian
+American Company on the north-west coast of America, and was at length
+settled for life in Tahaiti. His wife was a native of the island; he was
+the father of a family, and carried on the occupation of a pilot in the
+Bay of Matarai. Wanderers of this kind often settle in the islands of
+the South Sea; but while they bring with them many vices peculiar to the
+lower classes in civilized life, are generally too ignorant and rough to
+produce any favourable influence on the natives. They are not all liable
+to this censure; and of about twenty English and Americans whom I found
+so naturalized in Tahaiti, some assuredly do not deserve it.
+
+Having a pilot on board, we steered direct for the extreme point of Cape
+Venus, where floated the national standard of Tahaiti. This flag
+displays a white star in a field of red, and, like many of the present
+arrangements, owes its origin to the Missionaries, who do not indeed
+bear the title of Kings of the island, but exercise an unlimited
+influence over the minds of the natives. We passed safely by the
+shallows lying before the Matawai Bay, (upon which Captain Wallis
+grounded, and which he called, after his ship, the Dolphin,) round the
+headland, to the western side, and at last anchored opposite the village
+of Matawai, at a distance of two hundred fathoms from the shore, in a
+black clay bottom of fifteen fathoms depth.
+
+Our frigate, as it entered the Bay, attracted to the beach a crowd of
+curious gazers, who greeted our arrival with a shout of joy. Numerous
+boats laden with all kinds of fruits, provisions, and other articles of
+merchandize, immediately put off from the shore, and we were soon
+surrounded by gay and noisy Tahaitians. As soon as the sails were taken
+in, I gave them permission to come on board, of which they eagerly
+availed themselves. With their wares on their backs, they climbed
+merrily up the sides of the ship, and the deck was soon transformed
+into a busy market, where all was frolic and fun; the goods were offered
+with a jest, and the bargains concluded with laughter. In a short time
+each Tahaitian had selected a Russian associate, to whom, with a
+fraternal embrace, he tendered his wish to exchange names,--a ceremony
+which implied a pledge to surrender to the new friend whatever he might
+wish for.
+
+It is probable that these sudden attachments were not quite
+disinterested; a view of procuring a better barter for their goods might
+have had some effect in producing the zeal with which they were struck
+up; but they certainly had every appearance of sincerity and cordiality,
+and in less than an hour these friendly allies were seen walking in
+couples, arm in arm, about the deck, as though they had been acquainted
+for years.
+
+Our clothing appeared to be prized by the Tahaitians above every thing
+we offered them, and the possession of any article of this kind set them
+leaping, as if out of their wits, for joy. On this day we saw no
+females; and when we were afterwards occasionally visited by the women,
+they always behaved with the greatest propriety.
+
+When the sun declined, our new acquaintances left us to return to their
+homes, satisfied with their bargains, and delighted with the presents
+they had received, and without having stolen any thing, although above a
+hundred of them had been on board at once.
+
+I had sent a message to the Missionary Wilson, by an officer who now
+returned, bringing for answer an assurance that the Missionary would
+with pleasure do all in his power to assist us in procuring our
+supplies; a promise he faithfully kept.
+
+On the following morning we were greeted by the sun from a cloudless
+sky, with a most superb illumination of the country opposite to his
+rising. His rays glittering on the mountain-tops before they reached our
+horizon, gradually enlivened the variegated green that clothed their
+sides down to the vales, till the King of Day burst upon our sight in
+all his splendour, arraying the luxuriant landscape of the shore in
+still more enchanting beauty. Among the thickets of fruit-trees were
+seen the dwellings of the happy inhabitants of this great
+pleasure-ground, built of bamboos, and covered with large leaves,
+standing each in its little garden; but, to our great astonishment, the
+stillness of death reigned among them; and even when the sun stood high
+in the heavens, no one was to be seen.
+
+The warm friendships formed but yesterday seemed already to have cooled;
+we were quite forgotten. At length we obtained from the boat, sent off
+to us at break of day with provisions, an explanation of this enigma.
+The inhabitants of Tahaiti were celebrating the Sunday, on which account
+they did not leave their houses, where they lay on their bellies reading
+the Bible and howling aloud; laying aside every species of occupation,
+they devoted, as they said, the whole day to prayer. According to our
+reckoning, the day was Saturday. This difference proceeded from the
+first Missionaries having reached Tahaiti from the west by the way of
+New Holland, while we had come eastward by Cape Horn.
+
+I resolved to go ashore and pay a visit to Mr. Wilson, that I might
+procure, through his means, a convenient place for our astronomical
+observations. We landed at the point of the Cape, because the shade of a
+thick palm grove there offered us immediate protection. No one received
+us on the strand; no human being, not even a dog, was visible. The very
+birds seemed here to celebrate the Sunday by silence, unless, indeed, it
+was somewhat too hot for singing. A little brook, meandering among
+shrubs and flowers, alone took the liberty of mingling its murmurs with
+the devotions of the Tahaitians. I sauntered along a narrow trodden path
+under the shade of palms, bananas, orange, and lemon-trees, inhaling
+their fragrance, and delighting in the luxuriance of nature. Though
+beautiful as this country is, it does not equal Brazil in the variety of
+its productions, and in the numbers of its humming-birds and
+butterflies. The loud prayer of the Tahaitian Christians reached my
+ears, as I approached their habitations. All the doors were closed, and
+not even the children allowed to enjoy the beauty of the morning.
+
+The small but pleasant house of the Missionary, built after the
+European fashion, stands in the midst of a kitchen-garden richly
+provided with all kinds of European vegetables.
+
+Mr. Wilson gave me a cordial welcome to his neat and simple dwelling,
+and presented to me his wife, an Englishwoman, and two children, besides
+two Englishmen, whom he named as Messrs. Bennet and Tyrman. They
+belonged to the London Missionary Society, and had left England three
+years before to visit the Missionary Settlements in the South Sea.
+
+The chief Missionary, to whom the others are subordinate, is named Nott,
+and lives in the capital where the King resides. He is now far advanced
+in life. He has made himself master of the Tahaitian language, and was
+the first who ever wrote it. He has translated the Bible, a Prayer Book,
+and some Hymns; and has printed a Grammar of the language, under the
+title of, "A Grammar of the Tahaitian Dialect of the Polynesian
+Language. Tahaiti: printed at the Mission Press, Burder's Point, 1823."
+
+He also first instructed the Tahaitians in reading and writing, which
+acquirements are now tolerably common among them. I am sorry not to
+have known Mr. Nott better, and therefore not to have it in my power to
+judge of the man as well as the Missionary. His character stands very
+high. Wilson, also an old man, has now lived twenty years in Tahaiti; he
+was originally a common sailor, but has zealously devoted himself to
+theology, and is honest and good-natured. Including Nott and Wilson,
+there are six Missionaries in Tahaiti alone, and only four among all the
+other Society Islands. Each Missionary possesses a piece of land,
+cultivated by the natives, which produces him in superfluity all that he
+requires, and he also receives an annual allowance of fifty pounds from
+the London Missionary Society. This Society has also sent Missionaries
+to Tongatabu, one of the Friendly Islands, and to Nukashiva, lately made
+known to us by Krusenstern.
+
+Besides these English Missionaries, some native Tahaitians, after
+receiving a suitable education, are sent to spread Christianity among
+the islands of the dangerous Archipelago. In Russia, a careful education
+and diligent study at schools and universities is necessary to qualify
+any one to be a teacher of religion. The London Missionary Society is
+more easily satisfied; a half savage, confused by the dogmas of an
+uneducated sailor, is, according to them, perfectly fitted for the
+sacred office.
+
+It was now church-time, and Wilson requested me to be present at the
+service,--an invitation which I accepted with pleasure. A broad straight
+path, planted with the cocoa and lofty bread-fruit tree, leads from his
+house, about a ten minutes' walk, to the place of worship. The
+church-yard, with its black wooden crosses, impresses the mind with a
+feeling of solemnity: the church itself is a handsome building, about
+twenty fathoms long and ten broad, constructed of light wood-work
+adapted to the climate, and whitened on the outside, which gives it a
+pretty effect among the green shades that surround it. The numerous
+large windows remain unglazed, because a free admission of the air is
+here desirable in all seasons; the roof, made of ingeniously plaited
+reeds, and covered with immense leaves, is a sufficient defence against
+the heaviest rain; there is neither steeple nor clock. The interior of
+the church is one large hall, the walls of which are neatly kept; it is
+filled with a number of benches, so placed, in long rows, that the
+occupants can have a convenient view of the pulpit in the centre. When
+we entered, the church was full even to crowding, the men seated on one
+side, and the women on the other; they almost all had psalm-books lying
+before them; the most profound stillness reigned in the assembly. Near
+the pulpit, which Wilson mounted, was placed a bench for Messrs. Bennet
+and Tyrman, on which I also took my seat.
+
+Notwithstanding the seriousness and devotion apparent among the
+Tahaitians, it is almost impossible for an European, seeing them for the
+first time in their Sunday attire, to refrain from laughter. The high
+value which they set on clothes of our manufacture has already been
+remarked; they are more proud of possessing them than are our ladies of
+diamonds and Persian shawls, or our gentlemen of stars and orders. As
+they know nothing of our fashions, they pay no sort of attention to the
+cut, and even age and wear do not much diminish their estimation of
+their attire; a ripped-out seam, or a hole, is no drawback in the
+elegance of the article. These clothes, which are brought to Tahaiti by
+merchant-ships, are purchased at a rag-market, and sold here at an
+enormous profit. The Tahaitian therefore, finding a complete suit of
+clothes very expensive, contents himself with a single garment; whoever
+can obtain an English military coat, or even a plain one, goes about
+with the rest of his body naked, except the universally-worn girdle; the
+happy owner of a waistcoat or a pair of trowsers, thinks his wardrobe
+amply furnished. Some have nothing more than a shirt, and others, as
+much oppressed by the heat under a heavy cloth mantle as they would be
+in a Russian bath, are far too vain of their finery to lay it aside.
+Shoes, boots, or stockings, are rarely met with, and the coats, mostly
+too tight and too short, make the oddest appearance imaginable; many of
+their wearers can scarcely move their arms, and are forced to stretch
+them out like the sails of a windmill, while their elbows, curious to
+see the world, peep through slits in the seams. Let any one imagine such
+an assembly, perfectly satisfied of the propriety of their costume, and
+wearing, to complete the comic effect, a most ultra-serious expression
+of countenance, and he will easily believe that it was impossible for
+me to be very devout in their presence. The attire of the females,
+though not quite so absurd, was by no means picturesque; some wore
+white, or striped men's shirts, which did not conceal their knees, and
+others were wrapped in sheets. Their hair was cut quite close to the
+roots, according to a fashion introduced by the Missionaries, and their
+heads covered by little European chip hats of a most tasteless form, and
+decorated with ribbons and flowers, made in Tahaiti. But the most
+valuable article of dress was a coloured gown, an indubitable sign of
+the possessor's opulence, and the object of her unbounded vanity.
+
+When Wilson first mounted the pulpit, he bent his head forward, and
+concealing his face with an open Bible, prayed in silence; the whole
+congregation immediately imitated him, using their Psalm-books instead
+of Bibles. After this, the appointed psalm was sung to a most
+incongruous tune, every voice being exerted to its utmost pitch, in
+absolute defiance of harmony. Wilson then read some chapters from the
+Bible, the congregation kneeling twice during the intervals; the
+greater part of them appeared very attentive, and the most decorous
+silence reigned, which was, however, occasionally interrupted by the
+chattering and tittering of some young girls seated behind me. I
+observed that some threatening looks directed towards them by Messrs.
+Bennet and Tyrman, seemed to silence them for a moment, but their
+youthful spirits soon overcoming their fears, the whispering and
+giggling recommenced, and glances were cast at the white stranger, which
+seemed to intimate no unwillingness to commence a closer acquaintance.
+After the conclusion of the sermon, another psalm was sung, and the
+service concluded. The display of costume, as the congregation strolled
+homewards in groups, with the greatest self-complacency, through the
+beautiful broad avenue, their psalm-books under their arms, was still
+more strikingly ludicrous than in church. I had by this time, however,
+lost all inclination to laugh.
+
+I had assisted at a great religious assembly of the new, devoted, so
+called Christian Tahaitians; and the comparison naturally arising in my
+mind, between what I had seen and the descriptions of the early
+travellers, had introduced reflections which became less and less
+agreeable, in proportion as I acquired a greater insight into the recent
+history of the island.
+
+After many fruitless efforts, some English Missionaries succeeded at
+length, in the year 1797, in introducing what they called Christianity
+into Tahaiti, and even in gaining over to their doctrine the King Tajo,
+who then governed the whole island in peace and tranquillity. This
+conversion was a spark thrown into a powder magazine, and was followed
+by a fearful explosion. The Marais were suddenly destroyed by order of
+the King--every memorial of the former worship defaced--the new religion
+forcibly established, and whoever would not adopt it, put to death. With
+the zeal for making proselytes, the rage of tigers took possession of a
+people once so gentle. Streams of blood flowed--whole races were
+exterminated; many resolutely met the death they preferred to the
+renunciation of their ancient faith. Some few escaped by flight to the
+recesses of the lofty mountains, where they still live in seclusion,
+faithful to the gods of their ancestors. Schiller's
+exclamation--"_Furchtbar ist der Mensch in seinem wahn_,"[3] was
+dreadfully confirmed.
+
+Ambition associated itself, as usual, to fanaticism. King Tajo, not
+content with seeing in the remains of his people none but professors of
+the new faith, resolved on making conquests that he might force it on
+the other Society Islands. He had already succeeded with most of them,
+when a young warrior, Pomareh, King of the little island of Tabua, took
+the field against him. What he wanted in numbers was supplied by his
+unexampled valour, and his superiority in the art of war.
+
+He subdued one island after another, and at last Tahaiti itself, and
+having captured its King, offered the zealot murderer of his innocent
+subjects as a sacrifice to their manes. In the end, he subjected to his
+sceptre all the islands which had hitherto remained independent, and as
+sovereign of the whole Archipelago, took up his residence in Tahaiti. He
+left to the conquered Kings the government of their islands, requiring
+from them a yearly tribute in pigs and fruits; and to consolidate his
+dominion by family connexion, he married a daughter of the most powerful
+of these royal vassals, her three sisters, according to an ancient
+custom, becoming at the same time his wives.
+
+Peace was thus restored to Tahaiti and the whole Archipelago. Pomareh
+was a wise and mild ruler. He left his subjects undisturbed in their new
+religion, although he did not profess it himself. The Missionaries, now
+limited to their powers of persuasion, found means to retain their
+disciples in their adopted faith, so that the refugees of the mountains
+preferred remaining in their retreats, to finding themselves objects of
+hatred and contempt amongst their old friends and relations. At length
+Pomareh himself, with his whole family, yielded to the arguments of the
+Missionary Nott, allowed himself to be baptized, and died as a
+Christian, in the prime of life, in consequence of an immoderate
+indulgence in the spirituous liquors which he had obtained from the
+ships of his new brethren.
+
+An unconquerable passion for ardent spirits had acquired an entire
+dominion over him, although he was so well aware of their deleterious
+effects, as to have often exclaimed, when under the influence of
+intoxication, "O King, to-day could thy fat swine govern better than
+thou canst!" This weakness was, however, so much over-balanced by his
+many good qualities, his well-tried valour, his inflexible justice, his
+constant mildness and generosity, that he possessed to the last the
+universal esteem and love of his subjects, by whom his loss was still
+deplored when we arrived at Tahaiti, almost two years after his death,
+although he had reigned as an unlimited monarch, and they now possessed
+a constitution resembling, or rather aping, that of England. This had
+been introduced by the influence of the Missionaries, whose power over
+the minds of the Tahaitians is unbounded; they had persuaded the people
+to adopt it during the minority of Pomareh's son, a child of four years
+old at the period of our visit; but from the general regret with which
+the days of the absolute King were remembered, it did not appear to have
+given much satisfaction.
+
+According to this Constitution, Tahaiti is divided into nineteen
+districts, and the neighbouring island of Eimeo, having no especial
+viceroy, into eight. Every district has its governor and its judge,
+whose business is to settle disputes and maintain order. The first is
+appointed by the Parliament, and the latter elected by the people. These
+nominations are for one year only--but may be renewed at the expiration
+of the term. Important affairs are submitted to the Parliament, which,
+consisting of deputies from all the provinces, possesses the
+legislative, as the King does the executive power.
+
+The Tahaitians, accustomed to a blind reverence for the Missionaries,
+consult them in all their undertakings, and by means of the Constitution
+have so confirmed their power, both as priests and rulers, that it would
+be difficult for governor, judge, or member of parliament, to retain
+their offices after having incurred their displeasure. They have shown
+their artful policy in the choice of a guardian for the young King. It
+has fallen on the tributary King of the island of Balabola,
+distinguished by his giant height of seven feet, and by his enormous
+corpulence, which almost prevents his moving, but by no mental
+qualification.
+
+This mountain of flesh, that at a distance might rather be taken for
+some unknown monster than for a man, naturally finds it more convenient
+to his indolence to be merely the mouthpiece of the Missionaries, and
+that their dominion may also be secured for the future, Mr. Nott has the
+sole charge of the young monarch's education, and will not fail to bring
+him up in the habit of implicit obedience.
+
+The actual document securing the Constitution had not yet appeared; the
+Missionaries were still employed on it, well convinced, that whatever
+they should insert would be received without opposition. When complete,
+it will probably issue in due form from their Printing-Office, and will
+be interesting, if some future traveller should bring us the
+translation.
+
+Firm as the foundation of the Missionaries' power appeared, one little
+cloud was visible in the political firmament. A son of the vanquished
+King Tajo yet existed, and was not entirely without adherents. If by any
+chance he should succeed in gaining possession of the throne, he might
+remember that these men had assisted in excluding him from it. For this
+reason, they resolved to confirm the title of the young Pomareh, by a
+solemn coronation; and to strengthen his party, all the tributary
+princes of the whole Archipelago were invited to be present at the
+ceremony.
+
+The preparations for this solemnity had long been carrying on, and as it
+was now soon to take place, nearly all the kings, with numerous suites,
+had arrived in Tahaiti. Among them was the powerful ruler of Ulietea,
+the grandfather of the infant sovereign; he had brought with him several
+hundred warriors, many of them armed with muskets.
+
+We wished much to have been present at this first coronation of a King
+of the Society Islands; but as our time would not permit it, I obtained
+from Mr. Tyrman an account of the order and plan of the ceremony.
+
+The kings, princes, members of parliament, and other high officers, were
+to assemble at the residence of the Queen, and thence in a regular
+procession, arranged according to their several ranks and dignities, and
+headed by the young King and the Missionaries, to pass to an appointed
+open space, where a throne of stone had been erected, on which the
+little Pomareh was to be seated. The procession was then to form a
+circle round him, and Mr. Tyrman, after making a speech, was to set on
+the King's head a crown, resembling in shape that of England, in which
+country it had been made. A Bible was then to be placed in his hand,
+with the admonition, "According to this Law, thou shall govern thy
+people." Upon this, the train being marshalled as before, the King
+should descend from his throne, and proceed to the church, where, after
+the performance of divine service, he should be anointed. The ceremonies
+should then conclude with a grand banquet.
+
+It is remarkable that the Bible, and not the Act of the Constitution,
+was to be given to the King, as the rule of his government. Was not a
+sly mental reservation perhaps intended by this? If the Constitution
+should not have exactly the effect intended, and the Tahaitians,
+emboldened by it, should seek to withdraw themselves from their
+leading-strings, then might the pupil of Nott, bound to them by no oath,
+come forward to them boldly, and force them back under the yoke of the
+Missionaries; all the while conscientiously obeying the rule of conduct
+which had been delivered to him, according to the interpretation he had
+been taught to put on it.
+
+How this coronation turned out--whether the son of Tajo allowed it to
+pass quietly--whether he has met the fate of many an unfortunate
+European pretender, or survives to become the originator of a civil war,
+which may yet give another destiny to Tahaiti, remains to be learnt from
+the accounts of some future traveller.
+
+Religion and political institutions may raise a nation in a short period
+to a high point of civilization, and they may also serve, as in case of
+the Turks, to retain them in perpetual barbarism. How will these mighty
+powers operate on the Tahaitians? How can they, the qualifications of
+their authors considered!
+
+True, genuine Christianity, and a liberal government, might have soon
+given to this people, endowed by nature with the seeds of every social
+virtue, a rank among civilized nations. Under such a blessed influence,
+the arts and sciences would soon have taken root, the intellect of the
+people would have expanded, and a just estimation of all that is good,
+beautiful, and eternally true, would have refined their manners and
+ennobled their hearts. Europe would soon have admired, perhaps have
+envied Tahaiti: but the religion taught by the Missionaries is not true
+Christianity, though it may possibly comprehend some of its doctrines,
+but half understood even by the teachers themselves. That it was
+established by force, is of itself an evidence against its Christian
+principle. A religion which consists in the eternal repetition of
+prescribed prayers, which forbids every innocent pleasure, and cramps or
+annihilates every mental power, is a libel on the Divine Founder of
+Christianity, the benign Friend of human-kind. It is true, that the
+religion of the Missionaries has, with a great deal of evil, effected
+some good. It has abolished heathen superstitions, and an irrational
+worship, but it has introduced new errors in their stead. It has
+restrained the vices of theft and incontinence, but it has given birth
+to bigotry, hypocrisy, and a hatred and contempt of all other modes of
+faith, which was once foreign to the open and benevolent character of
+the Tahaitian. It has put and end to avowed human sacrifices, but many
+more human beings have been actually sacrificed to it, than ever were to
+their heathen gods.
+
+The elder Forster estimated, as we have already seen, the population of
+Tahaiti at one hundred and thirty thousand souls. Allowing that he
+over-calculated it, by even as much as fifty thousand, still eighty
+thousand remained:--the present population amounts to only eight
+thousand; so that nine-tenths must have disappeared. The diseases
+introduced by the ardent spirits, the manufacture of Europe and America,
+may, indeed, have much increased the mortality, but they are also known
+in many islands in the South Seas, without having caused any perceptible
+diminution in the population. It is not known that plague of any kind
+has ever raged here: it was, therefore, the bloody persecution
+instigated by the Missionaries which performed the office of a
+desolating infection. I really believe that these pious people were
+themselves shocked at the consequences of their zeal; but they soon
+consoled themselves; and have ever since continued to watch with the
+most vigilant severity over the maintenance of every article of their
+faith. Hence, among the remains of these murdered people, their former
+admirable industry, and their joyous buoyancy of spirits, have been
+changed for continual praying, and meditating upon things which the
+teachers understand as little as the taught.
+
+The Tahaitians of the present day hardly know how to plait their mats,
+make their paper stuffs, or cultivate a few roots. They content
+themselves with the bread-fruit, which the soil yields spontaneously in
+quantities more than sufficient for their reduced population. Their
+navy, which excited the astonishment of Europeans, has entirely
+disappeared. They build no vessels but a few little paltry canoes, with
+which they fish off the neighbouring coral islands, and make their
+longest voyages in American and European boats which they have
+purchased. With the method of producing those commodities of civilized
+nations which they prize so highly, they are still as much as ever
+unacquainted. They possess sheep, and excellent cotton; but no
+spinning-wheel, no loom, has yet been set in motion among them; they
+choose rather to buy their cloth and cotton of foreigners for real gold
+and pearls; one of our sailors sold an old shirt for five piastres.
+Horses and cattle have been brought to them, but the few that remain
+have fallen into the possession of strangers, and have become so scarce,
+that one hundred piastres was asked for an ox, that we wanted in
+provisioning the ship. The Queen alone possesses a pair of horses, but
+she never uses them. The island contains but one smith, though the
+assistance of the forge and bellows would be so useful in repairing the
+iron tools which have superseded those of stone formerly in use. It is
+extraordinary that even the foreigners established here carry on no kind
+of mechanical trade. Can it be that the Missionaries object to it? It is
+certain that they possess great influence even over the settlers. An
+American, however, was planning the introduction of a sugar
+manufactory, and promised himself great profit from it.
+
+By order of the Missionaries, the flute, which once awakened innocent
+pleasure, is heard no more. No music but that of the psalms is suffered
+in Tahaiti: dancing, mock-fights, and dramatic representations are no
+longer permitted. Every pleasure is punished as a sin, among a people
+whom Nature destined to the most cheerful enjoyment. One of our friends
+having begun to sing for joy over a present he had received, was
+immediately asked by his comrades, with great terror, what he thought
+would be the consequence, should the Missionaries hear of it.
+
+It is remarkable that the degenerate Tahaitians are no longer even in
+person such as they are described by the early travellers. Their
+religion appears to have had an effect inimical to their beauty. The
+large-grown Yeris, solely employed in praying, eating, and sleeping, are
+all, men and women, excessively fat even in early youth. The smaller
+common people, constrained to some degree of industry, look plump and
+well fed, but not so swollen as their superiors, and more fine forms
+are therefore to be seen among them than among the Yeris: the latter
+also frequently suffer under a most disfiguring disease caused by want
+of exercise and excess of nourishment: the legs swell to such a degree
+from the knees downward, that the form of the calf and foot is entirely
+lost, and the thick cylinders which usurp the place of legs, and from
+under which the toes only project, resemble nothing but the legs of
+elephants; thence the name of elephantism has been bestowed on the
+complaint by Europeans. It does not appear to cause much pain.
+
+The men of both classes shave the beard, and both sexes cut their hair
+so close, that the skin can be seen under it; a fashion ugly enough for
+any face, but especially so with their brown complexions, as it gives
+them an ape-like appearance. As, however, a compliance with this custom,
+is a mark of Christianity, and the heathen fugitives to the mountains
+have retained their long hair, even the young females are proud of thus
+disfiguring themselves.
+
+All vanity is sin, and all care of the person is vanity. Hence the fat
+Yeri beauties no longer shelter their skins from the burning rays of
+the sun, and are become as brown as the rest. All the graces have
+departed from them; their fascinating smiles have vanished; and the
+rancid cocoa-oil with which they smear themselves may be smelt at many
+paces distance. In short, either the picture drawn of them by the early
+travellers was a monstrous flattery, or they are altogether different
+from what they were. I saw but one handsome girl at Tahaiti; she was the
+sister of the little King, only fourteen years old, and already the
+bride of her uncle, the Prince of Ulietea. The men far surpass the women
+both in form and feature.
+
+The Missionaries have abolished the custom of tattooing, and so far at
+least spared the Tahaitians some useless torment. These marks are now
+only to be seen on people of the middle age and upwards--never on the
+young. The first voyagers who visited this island, describe the
+tattooing as representing half-moons, birds, and irregular or zig-zag
+lines; but on a better acquaintance with Europeans, the fashion changed,
+and drawings of our tools, animals, and even compasses and mathematical
+instruments, were executed with the greatest exactness on their bodies.
+Pantaloons being articles in particular request among them, he who could
+not obtain a pair, comforted himself by having the representation of
+them etched on his legs. Many of these are still to be seen.
+
+We much wished to have had an opportunity of comparing the _soi-disant_
+Christian Tahaitians, with the heathen inhabitants of the mountains; but
+it would have taken too much time to seek them out in their retreats,
+which they leave only at night for the purpose of robbing the dwellers
+in the valleys, among whom they dare not appear in the day.
+
+If the religion of the Missionaries has neither tended to enlighten the
+Tahaitians nor to render them happy, just as little can be expected from
+the Constitution founded upon it, which seems adapted only to draw yet
+tighter the bonds in which this amiable people are held by their zealous
+converters, and to retain them wholly under their authority.
+
+By the influence of Wilson, a small house situated on Cape Venus was
+cleared for our astronomical observations: we were told it stood
+precisely on the same spot where Cook's Observatory had formerly been
+erected. As a particular favour from the Government, I was also
+accommodated with a royal pleasure-house in its neighbourhood for my
+private residence. This very large building, which resembled an ancient
+temple in appearance, had been a favourite abode of the deceased monarch
+Pomareh, and since his death had remained uninhabited, out of respect
+for his memory. A number of utensils which had belonged to him, and a
+canoe, on which he had obtained many splendid victories, were still
+preserved here as memorials of the beloved king. The house was wholly
+without walls--the roof of leaves resting on numerous pillars; a mode of
+construction extremely well adapted to this warm and dry climate. The
+environs were very beautiful: high trees covered with thickest foliage
+invited to repose under their shadows, and a brook clear as crystal
+offered an inviting bath. The air was filled with the perfume of a
+neighbouring orange-grove, which scattered its fruit upon the earth. The
+lemons and oranges, which we found delicious, the Tahaitians despised as
+too common. Since I could only afford to remain a very short time at
+Tahaiti, Dr. Eschscholz and myself immediately took possession of my new
+abode, and erected our little observatory. After a long, wearisome
+voyage, I cannot express the delight I experienced in reposing amidst
+such enchanting scenes of natural beauty. We passed a charming evening,
+and a most refreshing night under our roof of leaves.
+
+In the morning, as we were drinking our coffee and smoking our pipes,
+while laying the plan of our observations so as to employ our short time
+to the best advantage, a messenger arrived from the Queen requesting to
+speak with me.
+
+I desired he might be admitted, and a giant Yen strode proudly in,
+accompanied by our pilot as interpreter. His only garment, with the
+exception of the girdle always worn by the men, was an old worn-out
+sand-coloured coat, with great shining buttons, in the fashion of the
+last century, and so much too small for its present possessor, that he
+could not button it, while his naked arms stuck out more than a quarter
+of a yard below the sleeves. His bald head was covered by a red
+night-cap, which, to show his knowledge of the customs of civilized
+nations, he raised a little on his entrance.
+
+He uttered, as he came towards me, the word Jorona (good day), stretched
+out his great hand to me, and then, without waiting for my invitation,
+seated himself on the ground close to my feet, with his legs crossed in
+the Turkish fashion. The Queen had sent him to inform me, that she was
+curious to see the Commander of a Russian frigate, and would gladly have
+entertained me at her court; but as she feared I would not absent myself
+so long from Matarai, she had resolved to pay me a visit accompanied by
+the whole Royal Family. The ambassador added, that these exalted
+personages, who had travelled by water, would soon arrive, and that he
+must hasten to receive them; then rising, he pressed my hand, repeated
+his jorona, touched his night-cap, and disappeared.
+
+I had scarcely time to prepare for the reception of my illustrious
+guests, when the concourse of people hastening to the shore announced
+their approach. A man soon appeared as _avant courier_, in the short,
+red uniform-jacket of an English drummer, an uncommonly showy,
+many-coloured girdle, and the rest of his body, according to custom,
+quite naked. His legs were adorned by a tattooed representation of
+pantaloons; and when he turned his back and stooped very little, he
+showed also a drawing of a large compass, with all the two-and-thirty
+points executed with striking exactness. In his hand he held a rusty
+broad-sword, and on his head was proudly displayed an old torn
+three-cornered hat, with a long red feather. Our interpreter described
+him as the royal Master of the Ceremonies; but it afterwards appeared,
+that though not apparently belonging to the Yens, but to the smaller
+race, he held several other offices in conjunction with this--those of
+cook and chamberlain, for example: his talent, however, seemed most to
+incline to that of court-fool or harlequin.
+
+In all his motions, gestures and grimaces, he displayed so singular a
+vivacity, that he might have been considered insane. Without the least
+ceremony, or paying the slightest attention to me, he took possession of
+my whole house. Several servants, in the livery of nature, followed him
+with the various articles necessary to the convenience of the Royal
+visitors. He immediately ordered that the whole floor should be covered
+with matting, and had every thing placed as he thought proper, leaping
+about all the while with both feet in the air, as if his life depended
+on the velocity of his motions. No one of the servants pleased him; his
+tongue ran incessantly; and his sword was flourished about in all
+directions.
+
+His preparations were not yet complete, when we saw a long procession of
+Tahaitians approach, two and two, bearing on their shoulders various
+kinds of provisions fastened on bamboo poles. This set our caperer upon
+increased activity. Two or three springs having carried him out of the
+house, he commanded the bearers to set down their burdens, which were
+presents from the Queen to me, in a certain order, in front of my
+dwelling. Three large pigs formed the right flank; and opposite to them
+were piled potatoes, yams, sweet potatoes, and all kinds of delicious
+fruit. When the Master of the Ceremonies had arranged them all to his
+satisfaction, he turned, for the first time, to me, and endeavoured,
+with many comical pantomimic gestures, to make me understand that all
+were mine. At length the Queen herself appeared, followed by a numerous
+train of attendants. She walked first, carrying the little King in her
+arms, and holding her daughter, the betrothed of the Prince of Ulietea,
+by the hand. After her came her three sisters, all like herself, large
+fat women, and then the whole crowd of the Court. The rear was brought
+up by a multitude of people of the lower class, bearing viands for the
+Royal entertainment, in utensils made of various kinds of gourds. Among
+the dainties was a live pig, which squeaking and grunting in
+anticipation of its fate, supplied to this orderly procession the
+absence of a musical band.
+
+The Queen and her three sisters were wrapped in sheets; and their straw
+hats still bore streamers of black crape, as signs of mourning for the
+late King. The little Pomareh, a pretty, lively boy, was dressed quite
+in the European fashion, in a jacket and trowsers of bombasin; he wore a
+round hat, but his feet, like those of all the other Tahaitians, were
+bare. They object that any kind of shoe hinders their walking. The
+young bride, a handsome girl, as I have before said, was very lightly
+clad in a short striped shirt, without any covering on her head. The
+giant Yeris who formed the Court, mostly wore white shirts, and round
+straw hats with black ribbons.
+
+It was the first time, since the death of her consort, that the Queen
+had entered these precincts, and a shower of tears fell from her eyes at
+the remembrance of the past. The whole court, as in duty bound, was also
+immediately dissolved in grief; but this sorrowful mood did not last
+long; their faces gradually cleared up--the Queen dried her tears, and
+greeted me kindly. The Master of the Ceremonies then conducted the Royal
+Family to the best mats, on which they sat down in the Asiatic fashion.
+One of my chairs was placed opposite the Royal Family, and I was invited
+to take my seat. In the mean time, the Master of the Ceremonies had
+vanished to prepare the repast.
+
+When the Queen, after surveying me from head to foot, had communicated
+her remarks and opinions to the company, I requested the interpreter to
+thank her, in my name, for my friendly reception on the island--for the
+presents she had made me, and for the high honour conferred on me in
+this visit. She received my thanks very graciously, and ordered some
+questions to be put me, which I answered with all due respect. She
+inquired how old I was?--whether my voyage had been long?--whether I was
+a Christian?--and how often I prayed _daily_? This last question
+afforded me an opportunity, had I thought fit, to give her Majesty some
+new ideas on the subject of the Missionary religion; but I did not feel
+myself quite capable of entering into a theological dispute, and
+therefore merely replied, that Christianity taught us, that we should be
+judged according to our actions rather than the number of our prayers. I
+do not know how the interpreter rendered my answer, or whether the Queen
+considered me as a heretic, but this I conjectured, from her speaking no
+more on religious subjects, and asking me, in order to change the
+conversation, whether the earth were really round? I assured her Majesty
+that I could answer from my own experience, as I was now sailing round
+it for the third time. This appeared to excite some astonishment; but
+my assertion concerning its spherical form still gained but small
+credit.
+
+I then produced some presents for the Queen, her family, and their
+immediate attendants, which, though in themselves extremely trifling,
+were received with great pleasure, and produced a degree of hilarity
+little consistent with the symbols of mourning worn by the Royal party,
+or the feelings they had displayed on their first arrival.
+
+To the Queen I presented a piece of calico four or five yards long, a
+coloured silk handkerchief, a small looking-glass, a pair of scissors,
+and some glass beads; to the young Princess, a silk handkerchief, beads,
+and a looking-glass; to the sisters of the Queen, cotton handkerchiefs,
+glasses, and scissors; their attendants, among whom were four ladies,
+were content with knives.
+
+During this time the Master of the Ceremonies had killed the pig, and
+baked it in the earth in the Tahaitian manner. As soon as the Royal
+Family had resumed their seats he brought it in, and placed it before
+the Queen, on a great banana-leaf, other servants spreading yams,
+potatoes, and bread-fruit upon the ground. My chair was brought and
+placed opposite to the Queen, who invited me, with much friendliness, to
+partake of the meal. I preferred, however, being an idle spectator, for
+it was still very early in the day, and I had no appetite. When all the
+provisions were brought in, the Master of the Ceremonies made a leap
+into the air, flourished his rusty broad-sword, and then repeated a loud
+prayer. All the company hung down their heads, and prayed with him in
+silence. The prayer being concluded, the Master of the Ceremonies seized
+the baked pig by the hind-legs and tore it in two; then, having carved
+the whole with his broad-sword, laid a tolerably large portion on leaves
+before each member of the Royal Family, who immediately attacked it with
+a good appetite, helping themselves with fingers and teeth, instead of
+knife and fork. During the repast, the suite ate nothing, but remained
+looking on, and I did not perceive that they were indemnified for their
+abstinence, even when the residue of the feast was carried out. When the
+repast was over, and a prayer said as before, the Royal personages
+washed their hands with water, and their mouths with cocoa-milk, and
+then lay down altogether to sleep; the attendants retiring. I offered to
+her Majesty the use of my bed, which she condescendingly accepted; and
+during the siesta, I returned to my plans for our astronomical
+observations. On awaking, the Queen expressed a wish to see my frigate;
+my time was not at my own disposal, but I entrusted to one of my
+officers the charge of doing the honours of the ship to our Royal
+guests, as well as circumstances would permit. On leaving me, the Queen
+pressed my hand in the most friendly manner, and repeated her jorona
+several times; her whole train followed her.
+
+On the strand, according to the account of my officer, the canoes lay in
+readiness for the excursion. The Queen, accompanied by her family and
+our officer, put off in her own European boat; the Master of the
+Ceremonies took his station in the fore-part of the boat, turning his
+compass to the company, and continued, during the passage, his
+ridiculous harlequinades with his limbs and broad-sword, as if he had
+been afflicted with Saint Vitus's dance. When they reached the frigate,
+the deck was already occupied by Tahaitians, carrying on their trading
+with so much eagerness and noise, that scarcely a word could be
+distinguished. The vessel was also surrounded by a crowd of canoes
+filled with all kinds of wares for barter; and so little attention was
+paid to the Royal Family, that it was with much difficulty our people
+could clear the way for their boat. Nor did the presence of these high
+personages attract much more notice when they had climbed the deck;
+their subjects continued to drive their bargains without interruption,
+and scarcely vouchsafed the slightest salutation. Very different would
+have been their conduct on the arrival of a Missionary. The Queen was
+probably hurt by this neglect, for she went directly into my cabin,
+followed by her family, and remained there till she quitted the ship.
+The construction of the vessel was not likely to excite her curiosity,
+as she was herself the owner of a well-built English merchant ship.
+
+The goods in the cabin, however, delighted the ladies, who admired and
+wanted every thing; nor was it easy to convince them, that each article
+they coveted was indispensable to our convenience.
+
+The officers exerted themselves to maintain the good-humour of their
+guests by trifling presents, and, amongst other things, gave them a
+piece of sham gold-lace, several yards in length, which was received
+with extraordinary eagerness. The Royal sisters divided it between them,
+and added it to the black crape trimming of their hats; and so great was
+the admiration excited by this novel article of finery, that the rage
+for gold-lace became an absolute fever among the more distinguished
+Tahaitian ladies. Vain now proved the severe lessons of the
+Missionaries, forbidding all adornment of the person. There was no end
+to petitions for lace, and the more our store of it diminished, the more
+highly did they value the smallest piece they could obtain. The
+tormented husbands came every day to the ship, willingly offering a fine
+fat pig and eight fowls for half an ell of the false lace, to satisfy
+the longings of their wives. They beset me incessantly in my dwelling
+on shore, for this new and invaluable appendage of luxury; and were
+astonished beyond measure, that I, the commander, should possess none of
+it. The ladies who finally were unsuccessful in procuring the means of
+imitating a fashion thus accidentally introduced by the Royal sisters,
+_tout comme chez-nous_, actually fell ill and gave themselves up to the
+boundless lamentations of despair.
+
+While the Royal Family remained below in the cabin, their attendants
+were engaged on deck in purchasing from our sailors all sorts of old
+clothes for a hundred times their value, in Spanish piastres. The
+Tahaitians have yet no notion of the value of money, which they get from
+the ships that touch at the island, and by their trade in cocoa-oil with
+New Holland.
+
+The Missionaries have done their utmost to draw money into the country,
+and for this purpose have fixed prices on every article of provision,
+under which no one dares to sell them to foreign ships. These prices
+are, however, so high that nothing but necessity would induce any one to
+pay them, so that the ships in general rather provide themselves with
+old clothes, utensils of various kinds, and toys, which enable them to
+make most advantageous barters, and frequently even to bring away money.
+The plan of the Missionaries, therefore, like many other financial
+regulations, has been found in operation to produce a result directly
+contrary to the effect intended.
+
+During the visit to my vessel, the young Princess had found an
+opportunity to bargain with a sailor for a sheet; having secured this
+treasure, she ran with it upon deck in the most extravagant joy, viewed
+it over and over with delight, and there formed it into a really very
+becoming drapery. She appeared quite conscious of her increased
+attractions in this attire, leaped about in the most sprightly manner,
+and called on all the persons of the Court to admire her. In short, a
+young European lady on first decorating herself with the most costly
+Persian shawl, would not have been half so happy as this young Princess
+dressed in the sailor's sheet.
+
+At four o'clock, the dinner was served to our guests and their suite,
+entirely in the Russian mode; except the etiquette of placing the Royal
+Family a little apart from the rest of the company. The infant King had
+long before begun to cry from weariness, and had been carried back into
+the boat, where he had quietly fallen asleep. A prayer was repeated
+before and after dinner. The visitors seemed to think our dishes very
+palatable, and even the Royal Family ate with good appetite, though they
+had so recently made a substantial meal. Their conduct was extremely
+decorous, and showed much aptitude in imitation. They made use of the
+knives, forks, and spoons as readily as if they had been always
+accustomed to them; and the wine, though by no means despised, was very
+moderately enjoyed.
+
+After dinner a general conversation took place, in which a man of
+seventy years of age distinguished himself by his animation and
+intelligence. He was the only individual present who had personally
+known Captain Cook. He asserted that he had been his particular friend,
+and for this reason still bore his name, which he pronounced quite
+correctly, although there is neither a C nor K in the Tahaitian
+alphabet. He boasted not a little of having accompanied Cook in his
+coasting voyages about the islands, and of having often slept in the
+same tent with him. He knew the names of all Cook's company, and could
+recollect the particular pursuits of each officer. To describe the
+manner in which Cook had observed the height of the sun, he asked for a
+sextant, placed himself in a stooping position, and looking fixedly upon
+an angle, often called with a loud voice, Stop!
+
+He could relate the Bible-history in short extracts, from the Creation
+to the birth of Christ; and in order to explain the doctrine of the
+Trinity, he held up three fingers, pressed them together, and looked
+towards the Heavens. The old Cook (as he called himself,) was not
+entirely ignorant of geography. He said he possessed a map presented to
+him by his friend;--that England was an island, and much smaller than
+Russia; and traced out, on a map of the World being opened before him,
+the way by which we had come to Tahaiti.
+
+At sunset our Royal visitants departed, highly gratified with their
+entertainment, and returned to the capital. This visit being over, I
+hoped to be at liberty to pursue my occupations in peace, but in this I
+was disappointed. Though my habitation was surrounded by sentinels, I
+was continually disturbed by swarms of curious islanders, who,
+troublesome as they were, were yet so gentle and good-tempered that it
+was impossible to be angry with them. They were particularly pleased
+with Dr. Eschscholz's little museum, and took pains to collect from
+every corner of the island, butterflies, beetles, birds, and marine
+productions, by way of showing their sense of the kindness with which he
+exhibited his treasures, often receiving from him in return some
+trifling present, which they considered of great value. One of them was
+fairly overpowered with gratitude by the gift of an old coat. With much
+admiration of such profuse generosity, and many expressions of rapture,
+he at length succeeded in cramming his large body into the garment of
+the infinitely smaller and more slender philosopher, and strutted about
+with his back hunched up, and his arms sticking out, envied by all his
+acquaintances for the magnificence of his attire.
+
+Though the vice of theft has certainly greatly diminished among the
+Tahaitians, they cannot always refrain from endeavouring to appropriate
+the articles they prize so highly. For instance, I think if any one of
+the Tahaitian ladies had found an opportunity of stealing a bit of the
+mock gold lace, the temptation would have been too great to withstand.
+Every theft however is, on discovery, punished without distinction of
+persons, and the criminal, on conviction, is generally sentenced to work
+on the highway. A road has been made round the island, on which those
+who have committed great transgressions, are condemned to labour; but it
+is probable that neglect of prayer, or any trifling offence against the
+Missionaries, would also entail this punishment upon them.
+
+We had an opportunity of observing the severity with which theft is
+punished. A complaisant husband could not resist the entreaties of his
+wife, who longed for one of our sheets. One day, when the sailors were
+washing in the river, he took an opportunity, unperceived as he thought,
+to snatch up one of these coveted articles and run off with it. Some of
+his countrymen, who had watched him, directly brought him back, bound
+him to a tree, and informed me and a Missionary of the circumstance. On
+reaching the spot, I already found the Judge of the district and the
+Missionaries Wilson and Tyrman standing beside the thief, who was still
+bound to the tree. Mr. Tyrman, who was especially bitter, could not
+refrain from abuse: he called the criminal a brute, who was not worthy
+to be treated as a human creature, and acted altogether as if the affair
+were his. This would have surprised me, as the judge of the district was
+present, and Mr. Tyrman had no official appointment on the island, but
+he was a member of the Missionary Society,--_et tout est dit_. I was now
+asked if I wished the offender to be whipped, as he had not the means of
+paying the forfeit of three pigs to the person robbed, which the law
+demands, in addition to the punishment of ignominious labour. I forgave
+him the equivalent for the pigs, and begged that he might be dismissed
+with a severe admonition upon the disgrace of theft, and an earnest
+warning for the future. This request, however, was not granted, and the
+unfortunate offender was taken away, still tied, to work on the highway:
+the Judge and Mr. Wilson concurred in assuring me that he was not a
+Tahaitian, but an inhabitant of another island, who had come hither with
+one of the tributary kings, and declared that a Tahaitian would not have
+stolen the sheet. The only article which we lost besides this, was an
+iron hoop from a barrel, and as the thief was not discovered, it
+remained undecided whether their assertion was well-grounded or not. At
+all events, it appears certain that thefts do not take place oftener
+than among civilized nations.
+
+With the chastity of the Tahaitian women, the case is similar; and it
+does not appear to me that the breaches of this virtue are more frequent
+on the whole than in Europe. It was with the utmost caution and secrecy,
+and in the most fearful anxiety lest their errors should be betrayed to
+the Missionaries, that the females complied with the desires of our
+sailors. An accidental occurrence proved that their terrors were not
+groundless. A married man who possessed a house of his own, was induced
+to barter, according to the custom of his ancestors, the favours of his
+wife for some pieces of iron: he had also assisted a young man in an
+intrigue with a woman whose husband was not so complaisant, by lending
+his house as a place of rendezvous. Suddenly the owner and his wife
+disappeared in the night, the house was found empty next morning, and we
+could never learn what had become of its proprietors. Have the
+Missionaries already introduced the _Oubliettes_?
+
+Having occasion one morning to visit Wilson on business, I found his
+door, which usually stood open, closed and fastened: I knocked several
+times; but the whole house seemed buried in the repose of death: at
+length, after loud and repeated strokes, the door was opened by Wilson,
+whose cheeks bedewed with tears made me apprehensive that some great
+calamity had befallen him; I was however soon satisfied that devotion
+alone had caused this emotion. In an ante-room I found four or five
+naked Tahaitians, of the highest rank, as Wilson told me, on their knees
+reading the Bible. Having apologized for what appeared to be an
+unseasonable intrusion, I was about to retire, but was invited by
+Wilson, in a friendly manner, into the inner apartment, where I found
+his whole family, with Messrs. Bennet and Tyrman, kneeling round a
+breakfast-table, on which coffee and various kinds of meat were
+arranged. Tyrman was praying aloud, the rest silently joining him. He
+thanked God for the progress the Missionaries had made in spreading
+Christianity. How willingly would I have concurred in his thanksgiving,
+had the religion they taught been true, genuine Christianity, propitious
+to human virtue and human happiness.
+
+The prayer lasted yet a quarter of an hour; on its conclusion, the
+company rose and breakfasted with a good appetite; but offered nothing
+to the distinguished personages in the other apartment, who were
+suffered to leave the house unnoticed.
+
+I found the bread-fruit, as baked in the ovens by the Europeans here,
+excellent. The natives retain their old custom of baking in the earth.
+
+During breakfast, Wilson related the difficulties he had encountered in
+the conversion of the Tahaitians. They would not allow that his faith
+was superior to their own; and when he appealed to the miracles which
+confirmed the truth of the Christian doctrine, they required that he
+also should restore sight to the blind and raise the dead to life; the
+confession of his inability was met with derision, and for many years he
+gained no disciples. How different, in all probability, would the effect
+have proved, had he, instead of the miraculous history of his religion,
+directed the attention of the susceptible Tahaitians to its pure
+morality, leading so naturally to the idea of a common Father, and a
+fellowship of charity. O, ye Missionaries, how much blood might ye not
+have spared!
+
+I received another visit from the Royal Family, accompanied this time by
+many of the Vice-Kings then in Tahaiti, with their consorts. Among them
+was the grandfather of the little monarch Pomareh the Second. After some
+preliminaries, my illustrious guests unanimously preferred a request in
+the most modest, yet pressing manner. They wished me to get a pair of
+boots made for the little King. His coronation, they said, would soon
+take place, and they did not think it decorous, on so solemn an
+occasion, for the Sovereign of all the Society Islands to sit barefooted
+on his throne.
+
+I immediately ordered my shoemaker to provide for the Royal necessity;
+the measure was taken, and my complaisance rewarded by the gratitude of
+the whole company. At this visit, also, the guests ate and slept. I took
+advantage of this opportunity to observe the method of preparing the
+pig, always the chief dish in their feasts. A sufficiently large round
+hole was dug in the earth, and filled with stones. A fire was then
+lighted in it, and kept burning till the stones were red-hot, when the
+ashes and cinders were taken out, and the stones covered with large
+banana-leaves, upon which the pig was laid, after being thoroughly
+cleaned, and stuffed with the glowing stones; more leaves were spread
+upon it, and covered with hot stones, and finally, the hole was filled
+up with earth. After a certain time it was taken out, and proved a more
+tender and delicate roast, than the best European cook could have
+produced. They dress their vegetables in the same manner, and the
+flavour is excellent; the bread-fruit, only, I preferred as baked in
+Wilson's European oven.
+
+[Illustration: PLAN OF MATTAWAY BAY AND VILLAGE]
+
+Matarai Bay is rich in finely flavoured fish, of various, sometimes
+extraordinary form, and beautiful colours. The Tahaitians eat them
+raw, or only steeped in sea-water. Their fishing-tackle consists of
+nothing more than bad angling lines and hooks; to make nets as their
+forefathers did, would trespass too much upon the time they are obliged
+to spend in prayer. Hence fish is so great a rarity to them, that their
+eager desire for it sometimes prompts them to belie their good
+character, of which we had an example. One of our large nets having
+brought up a multitude of fine fish, the temptation was too strong to be
+resisted, and our friends would have forcibly shared our acquisition
+with us, had not our severe reproof, and the accidental appearance of
+the judge of the district, restrained them. They then tried to obtain
+the fish by barter, and offered their most valuable tools for the
+smallest and worst of them; I gave them, however, so many, that for once
+their appetite was fully satisfied with a luxurious repast.
+
+I had heard much of an institution established by the Missionaries for
+the instruction of the people, and was desirous to learn what progress
+the Tahaitians had made in the rudiments of science. Being informed
+that the lessons commenced at sunrise, the first rays of that luminary
+found me one morning at the school-house, as I conceived the simple
+structure before me to be. Its walls were formed of bamboo canes,
+erected singly, at sufficient distances to admit the refreshing breeze
+from all sides, and supporting a good roof. The interior was one
+spacious quadrangular apartment, provided with benches, and raised seats
+for the teachers.
+
+I had not waited long before the pupils of both sexes entered. They were
+not lively children, nor youths, whom ardour for the acquisition of
+knowledge led to the seat of instruction, but adults and aged persons,
+who crept slowly in with downcast looks, and prayer-books under their
+arms. When they were all assembled and seated on the benches, a Psalm
+was sung; a Tahaitian then rose, placed himself on an elevated bench,
+and read a chapter from the Bible. After this they sang again, and then
+knelt with their backs to the reader, who, also kneeling, repeated with
+closed eyes a long prayer. At its conclusion, the orator resigned his
+place to another Tahaitian, when the whole ceremony commenced anew;
+another Psalm, another chapter, and another prayer were sung and said;
+again and again, as I understood, a fresh performer repeated the
+wearisome exercise; but my patience was exhausted, and, at the second
+course, with depressed spirits and painful impressions, I left the
+assembly.
+
+Several such meetings are established in different parts of the island,
+but no schools of a different character. The children are taught a
+little reading and writing in their parents' houses, and beyond this,
+knowledge is mischievous. It is true, that most of the Missionaries are
+incapable of communicating further instruction; but the opinion that it
+is easier to govern an ignorant than a well-educated community, seems
+here, as elsewhere, to form a fundamental principle of policy.
+
+To pray and to obey are the only commands laid upon an oppressed people,
+who submissively bow to the yoke, and even suffer themselves to be
+driven to prayers by the cudgel!
+
+A police-officer is especially appointed to enforce the prescribed
+attendance upon the church and prayer-meetings. I saw him in the
+exercise of his functions, armed with a bamboo-cane, driving his herd to
+the spiritual pasture. He seemed himself to be conscious of the
+burlesque attaching to his office,--at least he behaved very absurdly in
+it, and many a stroke fell rather in jest than in earnest. The drollery
+of the driver did not, however, enliven the dejected countenances of his
+flock.
+
+In the prayer-house, which at first, in my simplicity, I had taken for a
+school, no Missionary was present. The assembly consisting, except
+myself, of natives only, though tolerably quiet, was not so profoundly
+silent as at church. I endeavoured to read in the countenances of those
+around me, what might be the thoughts which at the moment occupied their
+minds, and few were the eyes which did not, as they passed muster, speak
+of other matter than devotion and the Bible. Most of them appeared
+engaged in very profane speculations: friendly glances occasionally
+interchanged, betrayed the hopes of the younger devotees; while many a
+stately Yeri was probably considering by what means he should procure
+from my ship's-company an old waistcoat, or a pair of torn pantaloons
+in which he might appear with suitable dignity at the approaching
+coronation; and among the ladies, some might be weighing the pleasure of
+possessing a sailor's sheet, against the risks they must run to obtain
+it.
+
+Exactly facing me was seated a fair one most becomingly enveloped in
+this envied habiliment, and enjoying with modest complacency, but
+visible triumph, the admiration with which the eyes of her country-women
+were fixed upon her garment.
+
+I had heard from the Missionaries many wonderful accounts of the Lake
+Wahiria, situated among the mountains which rise in the centre of the
+northern peninsula. They had themselves never seen it, and considered it
+almost impossible for an European to reach it; even the boldest
+Tahaitians rarely visit it; and a saying is current in the island, that
+it is inhabited by an evil demon. Its depth they report to be
+unfathomable, and cannot conceive from what cause this huge body of
+water can be stationary at so great a height.
+
+Mr. Hoffman, our mineralogist, an active young man, resolved to
+undertake this expedition, accompanied by three Tahaitians:--Maititi,
+who on our arrival had concluded a treaty of friendship with him, and
+adopted the name of Hoffman; Tauru, a respectable elderly man; and
+Teiraro, a brisk and lively young fellow. The two latter could write
+their own names. At first they raised many objections, assuring him that
+the journey, at all times difficult, was now dangerous from the waters
+being swollen by the rains; however, a shirt promised to each of them
+overcame all these obstacles, and the travellers set out at mid-day in
+excellent spirits. Maititi, a soldier in the royal Tahaitian army, bore
+the insignia of his rank in a musket, to which nothing but the lock was
+wanting, and a cartouche-box without powder. He had learnt a few English
+words, and, by their help, advised Mr. Hoffman to carry with him some
+presents for his countrymen: for he observed, that though hospitality
+and the consequence attaching to the stranger's appearance would secure
+him a good reception, it was desirable that a man with whom he had
+united himself in the bonds of friendship, should also command respect
+by his liberality.
+
+They travelled on a broad fine path through forests of fruit trees, and
+several villages, and considered the population of this district to
+exceed that in the neighbourhood of Matarai. In the country of Weijoride
+they began to climb the mountains, and soon entered a charming valley
+stretching to the south-southwest, and enclosed by high steep rocks,
+basaltic, like those of Matarai. Down their precipitous sides clothed
+with the richest green rushed innumerable streamlets to swell the
+largest and most rapid rivulet on the island, which watered the whole
+extent of this luxuriant valley. Here the cocoa, palm, and the
+bread-fruit tree disappear, but bananas and oranges flourishing wild,
+produce finer and more juicy fruit than our best hot-houses.
+
+A few scattered huts raised on the margin of the little river, gave
+tokens of human habitation. In one of these, occupied by an old married
+pair, our travellers passed the first night. Maititi seemed to consider
+himself quite on a foraging party, and Mr. Hoffman was under the
+necessity of begging him to moderate his zeal, and leave the care of the
+entertainment to their host. The old man fetched a pig, and Maititi,
+with great dexterity, played the part both of butcher and cook. Mr.
+Hoffman describes the operation of lighting the fire on this occasion,
+in the following manner:--A Tahaitian took two pieces of wood of
+different degrees of hardness, laid the softer upon the ground, and very
+rapidly rubbed its length backwards and forwards with the harder. This
+made a furrow, in which the dust rubbed from the wood collected, and
+soon became hot; it was then shaken among dry leaves and burst into a
+flame. The whole process seemed easy and quick; but Mr. Hoffman could
+not succeed in it though he made many attempts. Before supper, the
+master of the house recited a prayer aloud, the family repeating it
+after him, but not audibly. They then ate a hearty but silent meal, and
+prayed again before lying down to sleep. The couch offered to Mr.
+Hoffman was a raised platform in the hut, thickly spread with mats, with
+a pair of sheets of the Tahaitian manufacture, called Tapa, for its
+covering.
+
+The volubility of his guides, restrained during the repast by the more
+important business of satisfying their appetites, now broke out to his
+great disturbance. They chattered almost incessantly during great part
+of the night with the host, whom they were probably entertaining with an
+account of our ship, which he had not yet visited, and of their
+intercourse with us. Mr. Hoffman, on taking leave in the morning, gave
+his host a knife, an important present, which the old man received very
+gratefully, as far exceeding his expectations.
+
+The valley as they proceeded became wilder, but more beautiful: it
+opened to greater width, the precipices around rose to a thousand feet
+in height, covered from their black summits down to the valley with
+green shrubs of a thousand hues, through which cascades glittering like
+silver in the sun, rushed gurgling and foaming to the river.
+
+At noon the travellers reached a hut inhabited by a friend of Maititi,
+named Tibu; the owner also of another hut some miles further up, where
+his wife lived with the pigs and dogs! This being the last station on
+the road to the Wahiria Lake, it was determined to spend the night here.
+Before they set forward in the morning, a large pig was tied up, to be
+prepared for killing on the expected return of Mr. Hoffman and his
+associates, whom the hospitable Tibu accompanied on the remainder of
+their journey.
+
+Here every vestige of a path disappeared. At a height of seven hundred
+and eleven feet above the level of the sea, the travellers found
+enormous blocks of granite lying in a south-easterly direction. The way
+to Wahiria lay towards the south-south-west. They continued ascending
+till they reached a marsh in a rocky basin, where wild boars were
+running about.
+
+Another steep precipice was to be climbed before they could reach the
+Valley of the Wahiria. This stretches from north to south, and forms an
+oval, in the centre of which lies the lake, according to barometrical
+measurement, one thousand four hundred and fifty feet above the level of
+the sea. The surrounding rocks rise perpendicularly more than two
+thousand feet. The lake is above a mile and a quarter in
+circumference,[4] and receives the springs from the mountains. A little
+brook also flows into it from the north, but no channel could be found
+by which its waters might be carried off. The depth of the lake near the
+shore is eleven, and in the middle not more than seventeen toises. After
+Mr. Hoffman had satisfied his curiosity, he returned with his companion
+to Tibu's hut, and happily reached its shelter before a heavy storm that
+followed them had begun to discharge its fury. Exhausted by the fatigue
+of the march, and the oppressive heat, Mr. Hoffman threw himself on his
+couch to take a little repose, while his companions killed and roasted
+the pig. The storm now burst in tremendous violence over the hut. The
+thunder rolled fearfully along the valley, and reverberated from the
+rocks; the lightnings gave to the thick darkness a momentary
+illumination equal to the brightness of mid-day, and the rain pouring
+down in torrents, suddenly swelled the rivulet, near which the frail
+dwelling was erected, far above its natural channel. Whoever has
+witnessed a violent storm in the high mountains of a tropical country,
+will never lose the impression of its awfulness.
+
+The following day being Sunday, Tauru, immediately on rising, repeated a
+long prayer, and then read a chapter of the New Testament, of which at
+least one copy was to be found in every hut. After a good breakfast, Mr.
+Hoffman wished to proceed, but his guides were not to be moved, and
+threats and entreaties were equally unavailing. They assured him that a
+continuation of the journey would be a profanation of the Sabbath, a
+crime for which they would be hanged, should it come to the knowledge of
+the Missionaries. This was a little too strongly expressed; and the
+tempting remains of the roasted pig had, no doubt, as much influence in
+supporting their resolution, as their religious scruples, or their fears
+of the Missionaries. The next morning they made no objection to setting
+out. Our travellers were joined on the road by many families, laden
+with mountain bananas, so that they arrived in a large company at
+Matarai.
+
+Mr. Hoffman made several other journeys into the interior of the island,
+and visited Arue, the present residence of the Court. The mineralogical
+and geological observations made on these excursions, are reserved for a
+separate treatise; but some particulars concerning his intercourse with
+the inhabitants, may be properly introduced here.
+
+The houses are merely built of perpendicular bamboo-canes, standing at
+some distance apart, to give free admission to the air. The roofs of
+palm-leaves are strong enough to defy the heaviest rain.
+
+As curious after novelty as more civilized infants, the heads of the
+children were thrust out from every hut he passed, and the parents
+hospitably asked him in. When he accepted the invitation, he was always
+conducted to the seat of honour, a raised bench covered with matting and
+tapa stuff; and, after freely partaking of the best the house afforded,
+was considered to have paid handsomely for his entertainment with a
+knife. Bedsteads made of bamboo-canes, and filled with soft matting, are
+placed along the walls, and make very comfortable, easy couches. These
+pleasant little abodes, in which the greatest cleanliness is everywhere
+observable, are all surrounded by cultivated gardens. In the evening,
+they are lighted by the oily nuts of the taper-tree, fastened in rows on
+splinters.
+
+Mr. Hoffman's visit to the house of his friend Maititi, excited the
+greatest joy. His host presented to him his wife and children, and
+entertained him in the most splendid manner his means would allow.
+
+In the capital Mr. Hoffman found nothing remarkable. The palace
+inhabited by the Royal Family, was a spacious hut, with an ante-chamber
+or outer house, in which eight of the guard kept watch. Their only
+weapon was an old pistol fastened on a plank; this was frequently fired,
+probably to accustom the young King to the tumult of battle. The old
+King lies buried under a stone monument, in front of which three guns
+are kept; but, to prevent accidents, they are nailed up.
+
+We have already mentioned the trade in cocoa-oil carried on by the
+Tahaitians, and the ship possessed by the Queen. This is commanded by an
+Englishman, and a part of the crew is also English. It was just returned
+from a voyage among the Society Islands, where it had been to collect
+tribute, and was preparing to carry a cargo of cocoa-oil, stowed in
+thick bamboo-canes, to Port Jackson. From the Captain, who visited me, I
+gained much information concerning the present state of affairs in these
+seas. He had learnt from ships returned from the Friendly Islands, that
+their King had recently conquered the Navigator Islands, which now paid
+tribute to him.
+
+The map of Matarai, and of the bay which bounds it on the north-east,
+completed by us with the utmost care from trigonometrical surveys, is
+attached to this volume, and renders any further description of the
+coast it embraces unnecessary. In December and January, the Tahaitian
+summer months, the trade-wind is often interrupted by violent
+north-westers. Rain and storms are then frequent, and often last till
+April; in the other months the trade-winds blow without intermission,
+and the sky is always serene. For this reason, what is here called the
+summer, might pass for the actual winter; and as the roads of Matarai
+are open to the west wind, it is advisable for ships visiting Tahaiti at
+this season, to run into the harbour, which lies eight miles west of
+Venus Point. It is spacious, formed by coral reefs, protected against
+all winds, and has two entrances so convenient, that ships may sail
+either in or out with almost any wind.
+
+The ebb and flow of the tide in the Matarai Bay differs entirely from
+the ordinary rules, and appears wholly uninfluenced by the moon, to
+which it is everywhere else subject. The rise and fall is very
+inconsiderable. Every noon the whole year round, at the moment the sun
+touches the meridian, the water is highest, and falls with the sinking
+sun till midnight. This phenomenon serves, as well as the sun's motion,
+to supply the place of clocks to the inhabitants.
+
+According to Humboldt, the altitude of the highest mountain in Tahaiti
+is ten thousand feet; according to the barometrical measurement of Mr.
+Long, only eight thousand feet above the level of the sea.
+
+Our first observation by chronometers, on our arrival at Matarai, gave
+the longitude of Venus Point as 149 deg. 20' 30"; the true one, as given
+by Admiral Krusenstern on his map, is 149 deg. 27' 20"; consequently, the
+error of our chronometers was 6' 50". This correction has been made in all
+the longitudes taken by us in the dangerous Archipelago. From our
+observatory on Venus Point, we found its latitude 17 deg. 29' 17", and
+its longitude 149 deg. 29'.
+
+The variation of the needle was 6 deg. 50' east, and its inclination 29
+deg. 30'.
+
+The barometer ranged from 29' 80" to 29' 70"; Reaumur's thermometer from
+twenty-three and a half to twenty-four and a half.
+
+The islands which I discovered on my former voyage in the ship
+Rurik,--the Romanzow, Spiridow, Dean's Islands, the Rurik's Chain, &c.
+whose longitude I had not then an opportunity to rectify upon Venus
+Point, lie 5' 36" more to the west than I at first supposed.
+
+The longitude given by Captain Bellingshausen for the island which he
+discovered, appeared to us by 3' 10" too great.
+
+On the morning of the 24th of March, we broke up our tent on the Venus
+Point, left our dwelling-house, and shipped all our instruments and
+effects. The afternoon was appointed for our departure. The Tahaitians
+now boarded the ship, bringing as many provisions as they could carry.
+They expressed great regret at losing us; and, to prove the
+disinterestedness of their good-will, would accept no presents in
+return. They unanimously assured us, that of all nations whose ships had
+visited their island, none pleased them so well as the Russians. They
+took leave of us with the most cordial embraces, and many of them shed
+tears. They accompanied us in their canoes to the mouth of the Bay, and
+were standing out to sea, when a sudden and violent gust of wind forced
+them to return. The same gust very nearly carried away one of our sails,
+and the proximity of the land placed us for a minute or two in a
+critical situation, but the coolness and skill of our officers and men
+relieved us from the momentary danger. In half an hour the regular
+trade-wind returned, and with the liveliest wishes for the future
+welfare of the good Tahaitians, we lost sight of their lovely island.
+
+To the remarks concerning them already made, I will add some on their
+language, from the work on this subject which I have before mentioned.
+The author says, "The language spoken on most of the islands of the
+South Sea, and therefore called the Polynesian, may be considered either
+as primitive, or as related to, and descended from, a common source with
+the Malay." It is undoubtedly very old, for these people have been from
+an unknown period separated from all others, and before the arrival of
+Europeans among them, considered themselves as the whole human race.
+
+Although, in comparison with European languages, that of Tahaiti, as
+belonging to an ignorant and uncultivated people, is necessarily very
+defective, it perhaps surpasses all others in strength, precision, and
+simplicity,--in the personal pronouns especially. Its resemblance to the
+Hebrew, in the conjugation of the verbs, as well as in the roots of
+some of the words, can easily be proved. Many of the words really appear
+of Hebrew origin: as for example, _mate_, dead; _mara_, or _maramosa_,
+bitter; _rapaon_, to heal, &c.
+
+The Polynesian language being so widely extended, and spoken by the
+inhabitants of so many islands, who have little or no intercourse with
+each other, it naturally branches into many dialects. These are indeed
+so various, that they cannot readily be recognised as derivatives from
+the same stock.
+
+The principal dialects are,--that spoken in the Sandwich Islands, or the
+Hawaiian; that of the Marquesas; that of New Zealand; the Tongatabuan,
+spoken by the inhabitants of the Friendly Islands, and the Tahaitian.
+All the others, as far as they are known, are more or less related to
+these.
+
+The Tahaitian dialect is distinguished by its melody, as it has no broad
+or hissing consonants. The pronunciation is rendered difficult by its
+numerous diphthongs.
+
+The substantives do not change their terminations in declension; but
+the cases, of which there are but three, are formed by syllables
+prefixed: for example--
+
+  SINGULAR.
+
+  Nom.--_Te taata_--the man.
+  Poss.--_No te taata_--of the man.
+  Object.--_He taata_--to the man--and the man.
+
+  PLURAL.
+
+  Nom.--_Te mau taata_--the men.
+  Poss.--_No te mau taata_--of the men.
+  Object.--_He mau taata_--the men--and to the men.
+
+The Tahaitians have a great number of definite and indefinite articles,
+and prefixes, which they apply in a peculiar manner. The article te
+often stands before proper names; also before God, _Te Atua_; sometimes
+_o_, which then appears to be an article; as, _O Pomare_, _O Huaheine_,
+_O Tahaiti_. Sometimes this o is placed before the personal pronouns in
+the nominative case.
+
+_O vau_, I; _o oe_, thou; _o oia_, she, he, it. In these pronouns the
+Tahaitian, and those languages to which it bears affinity, are
+particularly rich. They have not only the dual of the Orientals, but
+two first persons in the singular as well as plural: for example--
+
+  _O Taua_--thou and I.
+  _O Maua_--he and I.
+  _O Tatou_--you and I.
+  _O Motou_--we three, or several.
+
+By this the conjugation of the verbs is made more complicated than in
+other languages, but it again becomes easier from neither the person nor
+the tense changing the word itself, but all the variations being
+expressed by particular particles: for instance--_motau_, to fear; _te
+matau nei au_, I fear; _te matau ra oau_, I feared; _i motau na oau_, I
+have feared; _e matau au_, I shall fear.
+
+Since my readers will hardly wish to study the Tahaitian language very
+thoroughly, I here close my extracts from its grammar.--Whoever really
+desires to learn it must go to Tahaiti. I must, however, warn him to arm
+himself with patience; for though the Tahaitians are very ready with
+their assistance, they have quite as bad a habit as ourselves of
+laughing at any one who speaks their language ill,--I say this from
+experience.
+
+Some months before us, the French Captain Duperre had visited Tahaiti
+upon a voyage of discovery, in the corvette Coquille. He returned home
+in safety, and is about to publish his travels, of which he has already
+had the goodness to send me some portions. An important acquisition to
+science may be expected from this work.
+
+
+
+
+THE PITCAIRN ISLAND.
+
+
+
+
+THE PITCAIRN ISLAND.
+
+
+I did not myself touch on this island, but I met in Chili an American
+Captain just returned from it, and in Tahaiti one of the earliest
+mothers of its population, who spoke English well enough to carry on a
+conversation. The information jointly obtained from both these persons,
+will not, I think, be unwelcome to my readers; and those who are
+unacquainted with the rise of this interesting colony, will perhaps find
+pleasure in a brief account of it.
+
+The English government appreciating the usefulness of the bread-fruit
+tree, and desirous of introducing it into the West-Indian colonies, in
+the year 1787, commissioned the ship Bounty, under the command of
+Lieutenant Bligh, who had already served as master under Captain Cook,
+to convey a cargo of these young trees from the South Sea Islands, to
+the West Indies. Forty-six men formed the ship's complement.
+
+After an excessively difficult voyage, during which he had vainly
+endeavoured, for thirty days, to double Cape Horn, and at length,
+yielding to necessity, had effected his passage by the Cape of Good
+Hope, he reached Tahaiti in safety in October 1788.
+
+Although the good-natured Tahaitians seem to have given great
+assistance, five months were occupied in lading the vessel; perhaps
+because Lieutenant Bligh and his crew found their station very
+agreeable. During this period the crew lived in the greatest harmony
+with the natives, especially the women; and this may probably afford a
+key to the subsequent fate of Bligh.
+
+On the fourth of April 1789, he sailed from Tahaiti, touched at one of
+the Friendly Islands to replace such of the young plants as had been
+destroyed, and on the 27th of the same month continued his course,
+cheered by the conviction of his ability to execute his commission, and
+to become the benefactor of the West Indies, by extending to them one of
+the greatest blessings bestowed by nature on her favourite children.
+
+But it was otherwise written in the book of Fate. The remorseless
+severity with which he treated those under his command,--the insults he
+offered them, having subjected even his mate, Christian Fletcher, to
+corporal chastisement, combined with the recollection of the pleasant
+time spent in Tahaiti, produced a conspiracy of some of the crew, headed
+by Fletcher, to seize on the ship, remove from it the commander and his
+adherents, and, renouncing England for ever, to return to Tahaiti, and
+spend there the remainder of their lives in ease and enjoyment.
+
+The conspirators kept their plan so profoundly secret, that neither
+Bligh nor any of those who remained faithful to him, imbibed the least
+suspicion of the criminal project, which was put in execution at sunrise
+on the 28th of April. The mate Christian, who then commanded the watch,
+entered, with two petty officers and a sailor, the cabin of Lieutenant
+Bligh, whom they found tranquilly sleeping. They fell on him, bound his
+hands behind his back, and threatened him with instant death if he
+uttered a sound, or offered the smallest resistance. Bligh, perfectly
+undaunted, endeavoured to grasp his weapons, and, on finding himself
+overpowered, called aloud for help; but the mutineers having, at the
+same moment, seized on all who were strangers to the plot, the
+unfortunate Commander had no resource but submission to his fate. He was
+carried on deck with no other covering than his shirt, and there found
+his faithful followers, nineteen in number, bound in a similar manner.
+
+The long-boat was now lowered; Bligh, in the mean time, attempting to
+recall the mutineers to their duty by unavailing remonstrances, to which
+renewed menaces of immediate death were the only answers.
+
+When the boat was ready, and the officers and sailors had been
+separately unbound and lowered into it, Christian addressed himself to
+Bligh: "Now, Captain, your officers and crew are ready; it is time for
+you to follow; any opposition will cost your life." He was then
+liberated, and put into the boat with his companions in misfortune,
+amidst the bitterest execrations for his past tyranny, from the
+mutineers. After some provisions had been furnished to the boat, and a
+compass, quadrant, and a couple of old sabres added, at the entreaty of
+its occupants, the mutineers set their sails and abandoned their former
+comrades to their fate, with shouts of "Down with Captain Bligh! Hurrah
+for O Tahaiti!"
+
+A regular narrative of what afterwards befell these unfortunate outcasts
+would not be strictly in place here; but such of my readers as are yet
+unacquainted with the facts, may learn with interest, that though
+abandoned on the vast ocean, in an open boat only twenty-three feet
+long, six feet nine inches broad, and two feet nine inches deep, very
+scantily provisioned, and destitute of a chart, they ultimately
+succeeded, by unparalleled efforts, in reaching a place of safety. The
+boat being, at the period of its desertion, within about thirty miles of
+the island of Tofoa, it was determined to land there, and take in a
+store of provisions, then proceed to Tongatabu, and solicit permission
+from the King of the Friendly Islands to put their boat into a
+practicable condition for hazarding a voyage to India.
+
+They effected their landing at Tofoa, and secured the boat to the
+strand, but were presently attacked by a multitude of savages, who
+saluted the defenceless strangers with showers of stones, and would soon
+have overpowered them, had not an heroic petty-officer, named Norton,
+resolved to sacrifice himself for the safety of his companions. He
+sprang on shore, loosened the iron chain which fastened the boat, and
+had only time to exclaim, Fly, fly! ere he was seized and murdered by
+the savages.
+
+This melancholy occurrence discouraged the fugitives from touching at
+Tongatabu, or any other island inhabited by savages. All now applied to
+Bligh, with the unanimous entreaty that he would conduct them to some
+port in the possession of Europeans; and took a solemn oath of the most
+unconditional obedience to him in the execution of this design. In
+compliance with their wishes, Bligh adopted the daring resolution of
+passing through the Torres Straits to the island of Timor, belonging to
+the Dutch. The distance was about four thousand miles; it was therefore
+indispensable to observe the most rigid economy in distributing the
+provisions. The whole crew submitted, without murmuring, to the daily
+allowance of an ounce of biscuit, and the eighth part of a bottle of
+water. On the following day a storm arose, which so filled the boat with
+water, that the most unremitting exertions were necessary to prevent her
+foundering. By a second storm, accompanied with violent rain, the small
+remaining provision of biscuit was transformed into a sort of paste,
+which now constituted their only food, and even of this they were
+henceforward obliged to partake yet more sparingly, as the voyage proved
+of longer duration than was at first calculated.
+
+Thus utterly exhausted by hunger, thirst, fatigue, wet, the burning rays
+of the sun, and sickness arising from such complicated sufferings, the
+unfortunate wanderers, after a voyage of thirty-two days, had the
+indescribable joy of beholding the coast of New Zealand, and entering
+the Torres Straits. They landed on a little uninhabited island near the
+coast, where they found fine flavoured fruits, oysters, and the most
+delicious water, all in abundance.
+
+Refreshed by wholesome nourishment, they reposed with rapture for one
+night on terra firma; but the rising sun discovered new perils. The
+savages, armed with spears, had assembled on the opposite coast, and
+threatened them with a powerful irruption, which they thought it prudent
+to avoid, by a precipitate retreat from the island.
+
+They sailed through the channel with fine weather, and a tranquil sea.
+The natives beckoned from the shore with green boughs, inviting them to
+land; but Bligh would not trust the intentions of this little hideous
+negro race.
+
+Some other uninhabited islands served them as resting-places, and for
+recruiting their stores with fresh water and fruits. Reanimated by the
+hope of soon reaching the island of Timor and the term of their
+sufferings, the best spirits now prevailed among them.
+
+But the object of their wishes was still far distant. When the boat had
+passed the Torres Straits, and regained the open sea, all the
+inconveniences and misfortunes to which they had before been subjected,
+returned with redoubled severity. The whole crew was sick; some were
+ready to expire; almost all had resigned the hope of ever again finding
+safety in port, and besought Heaven only for deliverance from their
+accumulated sufferings by a speedy death. Bligh, though himself ill, did
+his utmost to inspire his men with courage, assuring them that they were
+approaching land.
+
+The promise did not fail. On the morning of the 12th of June, at three
+o'clock, the high mountains of the island of Timor rose in smiling
+majesty before them. This sight operated like an electric shock on the
+exhausted sufferers; they raised their hands to Heaven, and never
+certainly were thanksgivings more sincere. Two more days brought them to
+the Dutch settlement of Cupang, where the Governor received them with
+the utmost benevolence. The whole party, except one only, whose strength
+was entirely worn out, soon recovered their health, and found means of
+reaching England in March 1790.
+
+It might have been supposed, that the terrible lesson Bligh had
+received would have taught him caution for the future; but it made
+little impression on his character. As commander of a ship of the line,
+his severity again provoked a mutiny; and when afterwards Governor of
+New South Wales, an insurrection was excited from the same excess of
+discipline.
+
+To return from this digression to the history of the colonization of
+Pitcairn Island. The mutineers of the Bounty, after the success of their
+plot, unanimously elected Christian for their Captain, and sailed for
+Tahaiti. On their way thither, they passed the small hilly, well peopled
+island of Tabuai, seen in 1777 by Cook, and formed the resolution of
+settling there. With much difficulty they brought the ship into harbour,
+through numerous coral reefs. They were received in the most friendly
+manner by the natives, who only showed symptoms of uneasiness when they
+saw the new comers preparing to erect a fortress on a point of land near
+the harbour; even in this obnoxious undertaking, however, they assisted;
+but harmony was not of much longer continuance. The Europeans,
+confident in the superiority they derived from their weapons, soon
+became insolent, and especially irritated the islanders by the abduction
+of their women.
+
+A sudden attack was made on Christian and his crew, who gained a height,
+where they defended themselves, and so effectually, that none of the
+party was killed, and but one man wounded; while the fire of their
+muskets produced great havoc among the savages. Though conquerors in
+this instance, they however found it advisable to quit Tabuai, and to
+sail once more for Tahaiti. During the voyage thither, a deep melancholy
+seized the mind of Christian; remorse, and dark forebodings of the
+future, haunted him incessantly; he shut himself up in his cabin, seldom
+appeared, and spoke but little.
+
+When the Bounty again cast anchor before Tahaiti, the natives crowded to
+the shore, rejoicing in the speedy return of their friends, but were
+much surprised at missing the captain and a great part of the crew.
+Christian persuaded them that Captain Bligh and the other men had made a
+settlement on Tabuai, of which island the captain had become king, but
+that he himself, and those who accompanied him, preferred returning to
+Tahaiti, where among their kind friends, they wished to pass the
+remainder of their days. These innocent people gave implicit credence to
+his story, and heartily rejoiced in the prospect of their friends'
+continued residence among them. Christian's private intention, however,
+was to establish a colony on some unknown and uninhabited island, since
+it was easy to forsee, that the criminals would be first sought in
+Tahaiti, whenever the tidings of their proceedings should reach the
+English government. Being dissatisfied with some of his companions, or
+unable to obtain their concurrence in his views, he concerted his
+project with eight only of the crew, and under the strictest injunctions
+of secrecy. Thus arose a second conspiracy among the accomplices in
+guilt.
+
+Christian and the parties to his new plot, found an opportunity of
+engaging the rest of the crew at a distance, while they weighed anchor
+and stood out to sea, with eight Tahaitians and ten women, whom they
+had enticed to accompany them. After a search of some weeks in those
+seas, they accidentally lighted upon Pitcairn Island, discovered by
+Carteret in the year 1767. Its extent is inconsiderable, but they found
+it uninhabited, and the soil fruitful, although high and rocky.
+Christian and his companions examined it closely, and, charmed with its
+luxuriant vegetation, resolved here to conceal themselves for ever from
+the world, hoping by this means to escape the punishment they so well
+merited.
+
+All their endeavours to discover a harbour capable of admitting the
+Bounty, proving fruitless, they determined to place themselves under the
+lee of the island, save the cargo, and then destroy the ship, lest its
+appearance might betray them to vessels passing by.
+
+This resolution was carried into effect, the cargo was brought quickly
+ashore, and the ship burnt.
+
+At first the colony suffered from a scarcity of provisions, as the
+island produced neither bread-fruit nor cocoa-trees; they, however,
+contented themselves with a temporary subsistence on roots and fish,
+relying for the future improvement of their supplies on the trees
+destined for the West Indies, and other plants brought from Tahaiti;
+which had all been landed uninjured, and immediately planted. Time
+indeed was required before the bread-fruit and cocoa-trees would bear,
+but some sweet potatoes, yams, taro-roots, and others, yielded in the
+following year an ample harvest.
+
+Unanimity and concord appeared firmly established among the colonists,
+who, by common consent, elected Christian as their head. Pretty little
+huts, and diligently cultivated fields of taro, yam, and potatoes, soon
+adorned the wilderness. After the lapse of three years, Christian became
+the father of a son, whom he named Friday Fletcher October Christian;
+but the infant's birth made its father a widower. Strongly inclined to a
+second marriage, and all the women being already provided with husbands,
+he seduced a wife from one of the Tahaitians, who, incensed at this
+outrage, watched an opportunity when Christian was at work on his
+plantation, attacked, and murdered him. Intelligence of this deed
+spreading quickly through the colony, produced instant retribution from
+the musket of an Englishman.
+
+Long inflamed by jealousy, at the decided preference shown by their
+females for the strangers, the passions of the Tahaitians were
+exasperated beyond endurance, by this act of retaliation; they made a
+sudden attack by night on the English, and murdered all, except one man
+named Adams, who, though severely wounded, contrived to escape into the
+forest, and elude the pursuit of the murderers. The women rendered
+desperate by the massacre of their lovers, and eager for revenge, found
+means to obtain it the very next night. They overpowered the Tahaitians
+in their sleep, and murdered them to a man!
+
+As soon as it was light in the morning, these blood-stained Megaeras
+sought for the corpses of their beloved Englishmen, and perceiving that
+Adams was missing, conjectured that he might be concealed and safe;
+although traces of blood were visible on the ground of his hut. They
+accordingly searched the forest in every direction, and at last found
+him in a most miserable condition. They bound his wounds, carried him
+into a hut, and by their united care and the application of healing
+herbs, Adams, being young and vigorous, soon recovered his health. The
+affections of all the women now concentrated themselves in this one
+object. He became their common chief and husband, to whom they willingly
+promised obedience; and, according to his testimony, jealousy never
+embittered their lives.
+
+Till the year 1803, consequently during fourteen years, Adams remained
+with his progeny concealed from the world. In this year the English
+Captain Falgier, sailing from Canton to Chili, landed at Pitcairn's
+Island, where they with astonishment encountered a people speaking
+English, having the most intimate knowledge of European customs, and
+betraying their origin in their features and complexion. Adams himself
+explained to him the enigma. Falgier communicated the information he had
+received to the English Government, but represented the situation of the
+island so erroneously, that it passed for a new discovery, till the
+English frigate Breton, in the year 1814, on her voyage from the
+Marquesas to the coast of Chili, also touched at the Pitcairn Island,
+which from the account of its discoverer Carteret, they considered
+uninhabited. The crew were therefore much surprised at the sight of
+cultivated fields, and ornamental cottages; and also of men assembled on
+the shore making friendly signals and inviting them to land. Some were
+even seen skilfully guiding their little canoes through the surf, and
+approaching the frigate.
+
+The sailors were about to address them in the language of the South Sea
+Islands, when their surprise was not a little increased by hearing the
+name of the ship and her captain enquired for, in pure English. The
+Captain himself replied to these questions, and the conversation
+becoming interesting, invited his new acquaintances on board; they
+immediately complied, and even when the whole crew surrounded them and
+overwhelmed them with questions, betrayed no symptom of the timidity
+universal among the South Sea islanders.
+
+The young man who had first mounted the vessel, saluted the Captain with
+the greatest propriety, and enquired whether he had known in England a
+man of the name of William Bligh. This suddenly threw a light on the
+mystery of the Pitcairn islanders; and they were in return asked if
+there was a man on the island named Christian. The answer was "No, he
+has been long dead, but his son is in the boat which is coming
+alongside." This placed the origin of the colony beyond all doubt.
+
+The crew of the Breton were further informed, that the whole population
+of the island consisted of forty-eight persons--that the men were not
+allowed to marry before their twentieth year, and must only have one
+wife--that Adams had instructed them in the Christian religion--that
+their general language was English, but that they also understood the
+Tahaitian, and that they acknowledged the King of England as their
+sovereign. On being asked if they did not wish to go to England with the
+frigate, they answered "No: we are married and have children."
+
+The sight of a ship of war and its crew, they said, was no novelty to
+them; and they mentioned Captain Falgier's visit to their island. A
+little black poodle dog which they suddenly caught sight of, put them
+all to flight. "That is certainly a dog," they exclaimed, as they
+retreated; "we have never seen one, but we know that it will bite." A
+little observation, however, convinced them of the animal's good-nature,
+and they were soon induced to play fearlessly with him. Being conducted
+into the cabin, they were there entertained with a breakfast, at which
+they behaved very modestly, and showed in their conversation much
+natural understanding. They said a grace before eating, and then partook
+with a good appetite of the provision set before them.
+
+With much difficulty the Captain effected a landing. A pleasant path
+winding among groves of cocoa and bread-fruit trees, led him to a very
+pretty, well situated little village, whose houses, though small, were
+convenient and beautifully clean.
+
+One of Adams's daughters, a young and very attractive looking girl,
+received the guests, and conducted them to her father, a man of sixty,
+but still of very vigorous appearance.
+
+The conversation naturally fell on Christian's mutiny, in which Adams
+maintained he had taken no part, having been wholly unacquainted with
+the design till the moment of its execution. He spoke with abhorrence of
+the manner in which Captain Bligh and his officers and men had been
+treated.
+
+The Captain proposed to Adams to accompany him back to England; but the
+whole colony assembling round him, with tears in their eyes, besought
+him not to take their good father from them. The scene affected even the
+Englishmen.
+
+The Pitcairn islanders are of very pleasing exterior; they have black
+hair and beautiful teeth. The men are slender, and their height five
+feet ten inches and upwards. The dress of both sexes consists of a
+mantle like the Chilian pancho, and they wear hats made of reeds adorned
+with feathers. They still possess a great quantity of old clothes from
+the ship Bounty, but, with better taste than their maternal ancestors
+the Tahaitians, they never wear them. The island has a beautiful
+appearance, and is said to be extremely fruitful. Wild boars are found
+in the interior.
+
+Seven years after this visit of the Breton, the American merchant-ship
+Eagle, whose Captain I met in Chili, touched on Pitcairn Island. He
+found the population already increased to a hundred persons, and was
+delighted with the order and good government of the little colony. Adams
+reigned as a patriarch king amongst them, and, as sovereign arbitrator,
+settled all disputes, no one presuming to object to his decision. Every
+family possessed a portion of land; the fields were measured off from
+each other, industriously cultivated, and yielding abundant crops of
+yams and sweet potatoes. On Sundays, the whole population assembled at
+Adams's house, when he read the Bible to them, exhorted them to concord
+and good conduct, and took pains to confirm their virtuous dispositions.
+
+Every evening at sunset, when after the heat of the day the inhabitants
+of this delightful climate are revived by the refreshing coolness of the
+air, the young people formed a semicircle round their beloved father,
+while he communicated to them some knowledge of the manners and history
+of his native country, its connections with other nations, and the arts,
+inventions, and customs of the European world. Adams's knowledge is
+probably not very extensive, but it has sufficed to enable him to train
+up his numerous family in habits and information which fit them for the
+easy acquisition of all the arts of civilization.
+
+His attentive auditory have accurately retained his instructions, and
+converse with wonderful facility on the characteristics and customs of
+different nations.
+
+Abusive words are strictly prohibited; and some of the islanders,
+perfectly astonished at hearing a sailor on board the American vessel
+which visited them swear at another, enquired of the Captain whether
+such expressions were permitted in his country.
+
+The Captain was enchanted with the conduct and character of this amiable
+people; and ascribed their virtues to the instructions and example of
+their patriarch. This good old man, however, expressed much anxiety
+concerning the future. "I cannot," said he, "live much longer,--and who
+shall prosecute the work I have begun? My children are not yet so firmly
+established, but that they are liable to fall into error. They require
+the guidance of an intelligent virtuous man from some civilized nation."
+
+At Tahaiti, as already stated, I met with one of Adams's wives, who had
+arrived there a short time before in an European ship, and from her I
+learnt many of the particulars here related. She spoke tolerably good
+English, but with a foreign accent. This old woman had been induced, by
+that longing for our native home which acts so powerfully upon the human
+mind, to return to the land of her birth, where she intended to have
+closed her life, but she soon changed her mind. The Tahaitians, she
+assured me, were by no means so virtuous as the natives of the little
+Paradise to which she was now all impatience to return. She had a very
+high opinion of her Adams, and maintained that no man in the world was
+worthy of comparison with him. She still spoke with vehement indignation
+of the murder of the English by her countrymen, and boasted of the
+vengeance she had taken.
+
+Adams, who was now very aged and feeble, had proposed to the
+Missionaries to send a Tahaitian as his successor; and fearing that the
+population of his island might exceed the means of subsistence which
+their quantity of arable land afforded, he was desirous of settling some
+of his families in Tahaiti.
+
+With his first wish the Missionaries will certainly comply as a means of
+extending their dominion over Pitcairn Island also. May Adams's paternal
+government never be exchanged for despotism, nor his practical lessons
+of piety be forgotten in empty forms of prayer.
+
+In the year 1791, the English frigate Pandora was sent, under the
+command of Captain Edwards, to the South Sea in pursuit of the mutineers
+against Bligh. Those who had remained in Tahaiti were found and carried
+back to England, where they were condemned to death according to the
+laws; the royal mercy was extended to a few only, the rest suffered the
+full penalty of their crime.
+
+[Illustration: CHART OF THE NAVIGATORS' ISLANDS]
+
+
+
+
+THE NAVIGATORS' ISLANDS.
+
+
+
+
+THE NAVIGATORS' ISLANDS.
+
+
+On leaving Tahaiti, I proposed to pass a few days on the Radack Islands,
+which I had formerly discovered; and, on my way thither, determined to
+visit the Navigators' Islands. These are probably the same seen by
+Roggewin in 1721, which he called Baumann's Islands; but Bougainville
+has appropriated the discovery, as made by him in 1766, and given them
+the name they now bear, on account of the superior sailing vessels built
+there, and the remarkable skill the inhabitants display in their
+management. Neither Roggewin nor Bougainville have given their situation
+accurately, nor have these original errors been perfectly corrected by
+the unfortunate La Perouse, or the Englishman Edwards, who alone are
+known to have since touched on these islands; the former visited only
+the more northern islands; and the latter communicated no particulars of
+his voyage to the public. I therefore considered it worth the trouble to
+complete the survey, by examining those which lay to the south of La
+Perouse's track.
+
+I at first steered past the Society Islands, lying to leeward from
+Tahaiti, in order to rectify their longitude; and afterwards carefully
+endeavoured to avoid the course taken, to my knowledge, by any former
+navigator.
+
+On the 25th of March we saw, to the north, the island of Guagein, and to
+the north-west that of Ulietea. When the western point of the latter lay
+due north from us, I found its longitude, according to our chronometers,
+151 deg. 26' 30", which is nearly the same as on the maps.
+
+The island of Maurura, on the contrary, is very inaccurately laid down;
+we found the longitude of the middle of this island, as we sailed past
+its southern coast, to be 152 deg. 10' 40". In the evening we had already
+cleared the Society Islands, and were pursuing a westward course.
+
+On the following morning we perceived a cluster of low coral islands,
+connected by reefs, which, as usual, enclosed an inland sea. The country
+was covered with thick dwarf shrubs; and, in the whole group, we saw but
+one cocoa-tree rising solitarily above the bushes. A multitude of
+sea-birds, the only inhabitants of these islands, surrounded the vessel
+as we drew nearer. The group stretches about three miles from North to
+South, and is about two miles and a half broad. Guided by observations
+which, from the clearness of the atmosphere, I had been enabled to make
+correctly immediately before they came in sight, I estimated their
+latitude as 15 deg. 48' 7" South; their longitude as 154 deg. 30'. We
+were the first discoverers of these Islands, and gave them the name of
+our meritorious navigator, Bellingshausen.
+
+The night was stormy: morning indeed brought cheerful weather, but no
+cheerful feelings to our minds, for we had lost another member of our
+little wandering fraternity; he died, notwithstanding all the efforts of
+our skilful physician, of a dysentery, occasioned by the continual heat
+and the frequently damp air. This same year the Tahaitians suffered
+much from a similar disease, and died in great numbers from the want of
+medical assistance. The Missionaries, who only desire to govern their
+minds, have never yet troubled themselves to establish any institution
+for the health of the body.
+
+During this and the few succeeding days, the appearance of great flocks
+of sea-birds frequently convinced us that we must be in the
+neighbourhood of unknown islands; but as from the mast-head they can
+only be discerned at a proximity of fifteen or sixteen miles, we did not
+happen to fall in with them.
+
+On the second of April, however, we passed a little uninhabited island,
+something higher than the coral islands usually are. Its latitude is 14
+deg. 32' 39" South, and its longitude 168 deg. 6'. I then considered it a
+new discovery, and gave it the name of my First Lieutenant, Kordinkoff;
+but, on my return, I learned that it had been previously discovered by
+Captain Freycinet, on his voyage from the Sandwich Islands to New
+Holland, in the year 1819; the narrative of which had not appeared when
+I left Europe. The situation of this island, as he has given it,
+corresponds exactly with my own observation.
+
+This same night, by favour of the clear moonshine, we saw the most
+easterly of the Navigators' Islands, Opoun, rising from the sea like a
+high round mountain. Westward from it, and close to each other, lie the
+little islands Leoneh and Fanfueh.[5] Near these is Maouna, with another
+little island at its north-east point. Forty-five miles further lies
+Ojalava, and ten miles and a half from it Pola, the largest, highest,
+and most westward of the group: connected with them are several other
+small islands, which I shall hereafter have occasion to mention.
+
+As the chart which accompanies this volume accurately describes the
+geographical situation of all these islands, it is only necessary here
+to remark, that it was drawn up from the most diligent astronomical
+observations.
+
+All these islands are extremely fertile, and very thickly peopled.
+Ojalava surpasses any that I have seen, even Tahaiti itself, in
+luxuriant beauty. The landscape of Pola is majestic; the whole island is
+one large, high, round mountain, which strikingly resembles the
+Mauna-roa upon the island of Owahy: it is not quite so lofty indeed as
+the latter, but its altitude is about the same as that of the Peak of
+Teneriffe.
+
+All the islands of the South Sea are more or less formed of coral reefs,
+which make secure harbours; the Navigators' Islands only are not
+indebted to these active little animals for this advantage. We sailed
+round all their coasts, and could find but one open bay, which runs far
+inland in the island of Maouna, opposite the small island already
+noticed off its north-east point.
+
+The inhabitants of these islands are still far less civilized than were
+the Tahaitians when first discovered by Wallis. Those of Maouna
+especially are perhaps the most ferocious people to be met with in the
+South Sea. It was they who murdered Captain de Langle, the commander of
+the second ship under La Perouse, the naturalist Laman, and fourteen
+persons from the crews of both ships, on their venturing ashore;
+although they had loaded the natives with presents.
+
+These savages attacked them with showers of stones; and the muskets of
+the Europeans after the first discharge, which unfortunately did but
+little execution, could not be reloaded speedily enough for their
+protection. Triumphing in their inhuman victory, they mangled and
+plundered the remains of their unfortunate victims.
+
+We sailed to the scene of this dreadful occurrence, since called
+Massacre Bay. The appearance of the country was inviting; the shores
+were bordered with cocoa-trees, and the freshest vegetation enlivened
+the interior, but nothing betrayed that the island was inhabited; no
+smoke arose, and no canoe was to be seen; this was the more remarkable,
+as on La Perouse's arrival, his ship, as soon as perceived by the
+natives, was surrounded by several hundred canoes laden with provisions.
+A small canoe, carrying only three men, at length rowed towards us; we
+laid to, and by signs gave permission to the savages to come on board;
+this they could not resolve upon; but one of them climbed the ship's
+side high enough to see over the deck, and handed to us a few
+cocoa-nuts, all the provisions they had brought; a piece of iron, which
+we gave him in return, he pressed to his forehead in sign of
+thankfulness, and then bowed his head. He examined the deck a long time
+with prying and suspicious glances, without speaking a word; then
+suddenly commenced a long pathetic harangue, growing more and more
+animated as he proceeded, and pointing with passionate gestures,
+alternately to the ship and the land. His eloquence was quite thrown
+away on us; but the silence with which we listened, might probably lead
+him to suppose that we attached some importance to it. His confidence
+gradually increased, and he would perhaps have spoken longer, had not
+his attention been arrested by the approach of several canoes.
+
+We were soon surrounded by the descendants of the barbarian murderers;
+perhaps some of the actors in the atrocious deed might even themselves
+be amongst the crowd which now assembled around us. This wild troop
+appeared timid at first, but our orator having encouraged them, they
+became so impudent and daring, that they seemed disposed to storm the
+ship. I ranged my sailors fully armed round the deck, to keep off such
+disagreeable visitants, but with strict orders to avoid hurting them. It
+was, however, only the bayonets and lances which prevented the multitude
+from climbing into the ship; and some of the most daring, by patiently
+enduring heavy and repeated blows, even succeeded in reaching the deck;
+they grasped with both hands any object they could cling to, so
+pertinaceously, that it required the united efforts of several of our
+strongest sailors to throw them overboard. Except a few cocoa-nuts, they
+brought us no kind of provisions, but by pantomimic gestures invited us
+to land; endeavouring to signify that we should be richly provided on
+shore with every thing we wanted. The savages had probably destined for
+us the fate of De Langle and his companions; they appeared unarmed, but
+had artfully concealed clubs and short lances in their canoes.
+
+A very few of them, whom we permitted to remain on deck, behaved as
+impudently as if they had been masters of the ship; they snatched from
+my hands some little presents I was about to distribute among them,
+exhibiting them to their companions in the canoes below. This excited
+amongst the latter a terrific rage, and, with noise and gestures
+resembling madness, they endeavoured to frighten us into compliance with
+their desire to come on board. Only one among them received the presents
+we made him, with any appearance of modesty or thankfulness; the others
+seemed to consider them as a tribute due to them. This more decorous
+personage bowed towards me in almost an European fashion, pressed the
+articles given him several times to his forehead, and then, turning to
+me, rubbed the point of his nose pretty roughly against mine. This young
+savage was probably a person of rank, who had received a particularly
+good education; he was of a cheerful temper, examined every thing very
+closely, and made many remarks to those in the canoes, which were
+apparently considered extremely witty, for he was always answered by
+bursts of laughter. The rest of his countrymen who remained on board,
+became very troublesome; like the beasts of the deserts, scarcely more
+wild than themselves, they tried to seize by main force whatever we
+would not willingly give them. One of them was so tempted by the
+accidental display of a sailor's bare arm, that he could not help
+expressing his horrible appetite for human flesh;--he snapt at it with
+his teeth, giving us to understand by unequivocal signs, that such food
+would be very palatable to him. This proof that we were in communication
+with cannibals, needed not the picture presently conjured up by our
+imagination, of the detestable meal which the unfortunate Frenchmen had
+doubtlessly afforded to their murderers, to complete our disgust and
+aversion, and to accelerate the expulsion of the remaining savages from
+our vessel.
+
+The inhabitants of many of the South Sea islands are still cannibals,
+and most of them, even where this abominable propensity does not
+prevail, are of so artful and treacherous a character, that none should
+venture among them without the greatest precaution. Their friendliness
+arises from fear, and soon vanishes when they think themselves the
+strongest, and are not exposed to vengeance. I would not even advise
+placing too much confidence in the inhabitants of Radack, who are
+certainly among the best of these islanders. It is only when ideas of
+right and wrong are steadily fixed, that man becomes really rational;
+before this, he is like other animals, the mere slave of his instincts.
+
+The inhabitants of Maouna are probably the worst of these tribes; those
+we saw were at least five feet and a half in height, slender, their
+limbs of a moderate size, and strikingly muscular; I should have thought
+their faces handsome, had they not been disfigured by an expression of
+wildness and cruelty; their colour is dark brown; some let their long,
+straight, black hair hang down unornamented over neck, face, and
+shoulders; others wore it bound up, or frizzed and crisped by burning,
+and entangled like a cap round the head: these caps are coloured yellow,
+and make a striking contrast with the heads which remain black. Some,
+again, coloured their hair red, and curled it over their shoulders like
+a full-bottomed wig. A great deal of time must be required for this
+mode of dressing, a proof that vanity may exist even among cannibals.
+The glass beads they obtained from us they immediately hung over their
+neck and ears, but had previously no ornaments on either. Most of them
+were quite naked; only a few had aprons made of the leaves of some kind
+of palm unknown to us, which from their various colours and red points
+resemble feathers. Since the time of La Perouse, the fashion in
+tattooing appears to have very much altered: he found the inhabitants of
+the South Sea Islands so tattooed over the whole body, as to have the
+appearance of being clothed;--now most of them are not tattooed at all;
+and those few who are, not with various drawings as formerly, but merely
+stained blue from the hip to the knee, as though they had on short
+breeches.
+
+In the canoes we saw a few women who were all very ugly: these
+disagreeable creatures gave us to understand that we should by no means
+find them cruel--a complaisance which did not render them the less
+disgusting. La Perouse here describes some attractive females: these
+were as brown as the men, and as little dressed; their hair was cut
+short off, with the exception of two bunches stained red, which hung
+over their faces.
+
+Scarcely one of these savages was without some remarkable scar: one of
+them attracted our attention by a deep cut across the belly. We
+contrived to ask him how he got this cicatrice; and he pointed to his
+lance, from which it may be inferred that they are not unaccustomed to
+war, either with their neighbours or each other, and that they are
+possessed of skilful surgeons. No one of this people seemed to exercise
+any authority over the others. Either no chief accompanied the party who
+came to us, or the term does not signify much power or distinction.
+
+The few fruits which they brought with them were exchanged for pieces of
+iron, old barrel-hoops, and glass beads; on the latter especially they
+set great value, and even brought forward some of their concealed arms,
+and offered them in exchange for this costly decoration. Meanwhile the
+crowd of canoes round the ship grew more and more numerous, and in the
+same proportion the boldness of the savages increased. Many of them rose
+up in their canoes, and made long speeches to, or at us, accompanied by
+angry and menacing gestures, which drew shouts of laughter from their
+companions. At length the screaming and threatening with clubs and
+doubled fists became general. They began to make formal preparations for
+an attack, and we again had recourse to bayonets and lances to keep them
+at a distance. I confess that, at this moment, I had need of some
+self-command to overcome my inclination to revenge on the ferocious
+rabble the fate of La Perouse's companions.
+
+Our guns and muskets were all ready loaded. A sign from me would have
+spread dismay and death around us; and had we stayed longer among this
+brutal race, we must inevitably have made them feel the power of our
+cannon.
+
+We therefore spread our sails, and the ship running swiftly before the
+wind, many of the canoes which had fastened themselves about her were
+suddenly upset. Those who fell into the water took their ducking very
+coolly, righted their canoes again, and threatened revenge on us with
+the most violent gestures. Several of them clung like cats to the sides
+of the ship, with nails which might have rivalled those of a Chinese
+Mandarin; and we had recourse to long poles as the only means of freeing
+ourselves from such undesirable appendages.
+
+At the western promontory of the island we again lay to, and purchased
+two pigs from some canoes which soon came up. The savages here in no
+other respect differed from those of Massacre Bay, than by conducting
+themselves in a rather more peaceable manner, probably from fear, as
+their number was small.
+
+In the evening the island of Olajava appeared in sight; and about seven
+miles from a little island lying in its neighbourhood, several canoes,
+carrying two or three men each, rowed towards us, deterred neither by
+the distance nor the increasing darkness. Our visitors proved to be
+merry fishermen, for their carefully constructed little canoes adorned
+with inlaid muscle-shells, were amply provided with large angling hooks
+made of mother-of-pearl, attached to long fine lines, and various kinds
+of implements for fishing, and contained an abundance of fine live fish
+of the mackerel kind.
+
+An expression of openness and confidence sat on the countenances of this
+people. Our purchases were carried on with much gaiety and laughter on
+both sides. They gave us their fish, waited quietly for what we gave
+them in return, and were perfectly satisfied with their barter.
+
+Their attention was strongly attracted to the ship. They examined her
+closely from the hold to the mast-head, and made many animated remarks
+to each other on what they saw. If they observed any manoeuvres with
+the sails or tackle, they pointed with their fingers towards the spot,
+and appeared to watch with the most eager curiosity the effect produced.
+
+It was evident that this people, sailors by birth, took a lively
+interest in whatever related to navigation. Their modest behaviour
+contrasted so strikingly with the impudent importunity of the
+inhabitants of Maouna, that we should have been inclined to consider
+them of a different race, but for their exact resemblance in every other
+particular, even in the dressing of their hair, though this was even
+more elaborately performed--an attention to appearance which is curious
+enough, when compared with the dirty, uncombed locks of European
+fishermen; but among the South Sea Islanders fishing is no miserable
+drudgery of the lowest classes, but the pride and pleasure of the most
+distinguished, as hunting is with us. Tameamea, the mighty King of the
+Sandwich Islands, was a very clever fisherman, and as great an
+enthusiast in the sport as any of our European princes in the stag
+chase. As soon as the increasing darkness veiled the land from our
+sight, our visitors departed, and we could hear their regular measured
+song long after they were lost from view.
+
+The little island they inhabit not being marked on any map, it is
+probably a new discovery. By what name the natives called it I could not
+learn; and therefore, to distinguish it from three other small islands
+lying to the north, mentioned by La Perouse, I gave it the name of
+Fisher's Island. It rises almost perpendicularly from the sea to a
+considerable height, and is overgrown with thick wood.
+
+On the following day we sailed with a brisk wind to the island of
+Olajava, for the purpose of surveying the coast. A number of canoes put
+off from the land, but could not overtake the ship; and I would not lie
+to, on account of the hinderance it occasioned to our work. In the
+afternoon we found ourselves near the little island lying off the
+north-west point of Olajava, called by La Perouse the Flat Island. A
+hill situated in its centre has, in fact, a flat surface, which La
+Perouse, at a distance of thirty miles, mistook for the whole island,
+because the low land which surrounds it was not within the compass of
+his horizon.
+
+For the same reason he could not observe that the eastern part of this
+island is connected with the western coast of Olajava by two reefs
+forming a basin, in the middle of which is a small rock. If these be
+indeed coral reefs, which they certainly resemble, they are the only
+ones I have remarked in the Navigators' Islands.
+
+The Flat Island, which, for the reason above mentioned, occupies a much
+larger space on our map than on that of La Perouse, is entirely
+overgrown with wood, and has a very pleasant appearance. At a little
+distance from this, to the north-west, another little island, which does
+not appear to have been observed by that Voyager, rises perpendicularly
+from the sea. Its sloping back is crested with a row of cocoa-trees so
+regularly arranged, that it is difficult to conceive them planted by the
+unassisted hand of Nature; viewed laterally from a short distance, they
+present the form of a cock's-comb, on which account I gave the island
+this name, to distinguish it from the rest. On its western side a high
+conical rock is covered from top to bottom with a variety of plants,
+evincing the prolific powers of Nature in these regions, where
+vegetation is thus luxuriantly fastened on the most unfavourable soils.
+
+North-west of this rock lies a third small island, exceeding both the
+others in elevation: its sides fall precipitously to the sea, and the
+upper surface describes a horizontal line thickly clothed with beautiful
+trees. As its circumference is only three miles and a half, it can
+hardly be the same that La Perouse has called Calinasseh. Probably he
+did not observe this island at all, but took the high round mountain on
+the low north-east point of Pola for a separate island, to which he gave
+the name of Calinasseh. The promontory of Pola deceived us also at a
+little distance, but a closer examination convinced us of our error, and
+I transferred the name of Calinasseh to the above-mentioned small
+island.
+
+When the Flat Island lay about three miles to our right, the wind again
+died away. This opportunity was not lost by the natives of Olajava, who
+had all the while followed us in their canoes. They exerted themselves
+to the utmost, and their well worked little vessels swiftly skimmed the
+smooth surface of the sea to the accompaniment of measured cadences,
+till they at last reached the ship.
+
+A horde of canoes now put off towards us from the Flat Island, and we
+were soon surrounded by immense numbers of them, locked so closely
+together, that they seemed to form a bridge of boats, serving for a
+market well stocked with fruits and pigs, and swarming with human beings
+as thick as ants on an anthill: they were all in high spirits, and with
+many jests extolled the goods they brought, making much more noise than
+all the traffic of the London Exchange. Even on our own deck we could
+only make ourselves heard by screaming in each other's ears.
+
+Our bartering trade proceeded, however, to our mutual satisfaction.
+Those who were too far off to reach us endeavoured by all sorts of
+gesticulation, and leaping into the air, to attract our notice. Many of
+the canoes were in this manner upset,--an accident of little consequence
+to such expert swimmers, and which only excited the merriment of their
+companions.
+
+Accident gave us specimens of their extraordinary skill in diving. We
+threw some pieces of barrel-hoops into the sea, when numbers of the
+islanders instantly precipitated themselves to the bottom, and snatched
+up the booty, for the possession of which we could plainly distinguish
+them wrestling with each other under the water. They willingly obeyed
+our orders not to come on deck, and fastened their goods to a rope, by
+which they were drawn on board, waiting with confidence for what we
+should give them, and appearing content with it. Some few had brought
+arms with them, but for trading, not warlike purposes; and although so
+vastly superior to us in numbers, they behaved with great modesty. We
+saw no scars upon them, like those of their neighbours of Maouna--a
+favourable sign, though they certainly seemed to belong to the same
+race. It would be interesting to know the cause of this striking
+difference.
+
+In less than an hour we had obtained upwards of sixty large pigs, and a
+superfluity of fowls, vegetables, and fruits of various kinds, covering
+our whole deck, all of which cost us only some pieces of old iron, some
+strings of glass beads, and about a dozen nails. The blue beads seemed
+to be in highest estimation. A great fat pig was thought sufficiently
+paid for by two strings of them; and when they became scarce with us,
+the savages were glad to give two pigs for one such necklace.
+
+Some of the fruits and roots they brought were unknown to us; and their
+great size proved the strength of the soil. The bananas were of seven or
+eight species, of which I had hitherto seen but three in the most
+fruitful countries. Some of them were extremely large, and of a most
+excellent flavour. One of the fruits resembled an egg in size and
+figure; its colour was a bright crimson; and on the following day when
+we celebrated the Easter festival after the Russian fashion, they
+supplied to us the place of the Easter eggs.
+
+I must yet mention two more articles of our marketing--namely, tame
+pigeons and parrots. The former are widely different from those of
+Europe both in shape and in the splendour of their plumage; their claws
+are also differently formed. The parrots are not larger than a sparrow,
+of a lively green and red, with red tails more than four times the
+length of their whole bodies. All these birds, of which great numbers
+were brought to us, were so tame, that they would sit quietly on the
+hand of their master, and receive their food from his mouth; the
+inclination for taming them, and the method of treatment, is favourable
+evidence of the mildness which characterises this people.
+
+How many other unknown plants and animals may exist among these islands,
+where Nature is so profuse! and how much is it to be regretted that no
+secure anchorage can be found, which would enable an European expedition
+to effect a landing with proper precautions. Some idea may be formed of
+the dense population of the Flat Island, from the fact that, small as is
+its extent, above sixty canoes, each containing seven or eight men, came
+to us from it in less than an hour; and had we stayed longer, the
+canoes must have amounted to some hundreds, as the whole sea between us
+and the island was rapidly covering with increasing numbers.
+
+Our market became still more animated when, the ship's provision being
+completed, I gave permission to the sailors to trade each for himself;
+as hitherto, to avoid confusion, the bargains had all been made by one
+person. Now some wanted one thing, some another from the canoes; and
+buttons, old bits of cloth, and pieces of glass, were offered in
+exchange. The noise became louder and louder; and the sailors laid in
+such a stock of their own, that for weeks afterwards their
+breakfast-table was always provided with a roasted pig stuffed with
+bananas, and their palates gratified with abundance of delicious fruits.
+They unanimously declared that they had never seen so rich a country.
+
+Our trade was interrupted by the appearance of a great canoe surrounded
+with lesser ones, which, advancing towards us, drew the attention of all
+the natives. They called out _Eige-ea Eige_, and hastened to give place
+to the new-comers. The canoe, rowed by ten men, large and elegantly
+embellished with muscle-shells, soon approached us. The heads of the
+rowers and of the steersman were decorated with green boughs, probably
+in token of peace.
+
+In the fore part of the vessel, on a platform covered with matting, sat
+an elderly man cross-legged in the Asiatic fashion, holding a green,
+silk European parasol, which we conjectured must have belonged to one of
+the unfortunate companions of La Perouse, and have been obtained by this
+chief from Maouna. His clothing consisted of a very finely plaited
+grass-mat, hanging like a mantle from his shoulders, and a girdle round
+his waist. His head was enveloped in a piece of white stuff, in the
+manner of a turban. He spoke a few words, accompanied by a motion of the
+hand, to his countrymen or subjects, who immediately made way for his
+canoe to come alongside; and on our invitation he came on board attended
+by three persons.
+
+He was not tattooed, was about six feet high, thin, but vigorous and
+muscular. His features were not handsome but agreeable; his countenance
+was intelligent and reflective; his behaviour modest and decorous.
+
+On entering the ship, he inquired for the _Eigeh_, and I was pointed out
+to him; he approached me, bowed his head a little, spoke a few words
+which I did not understand, and then took hold of my elbows with both
+hands, raised them up several times, and repeated the English words
+"Very good." After this welcome, which I returned in an European manner,
+he gave me to understand that he was Eigeh of the Flat Island, and
+commanded his attendants to lay at my feet the presents he had brought
+for me, consisting of three fine fat pigs, which he called _boaka_, and
+some fruits. I presented him in return with a large hatchet, two strings
+of blue beads, and a coloured silk handkerchief, which I bound for him
+myself over his turban. The _Eigeh_ appeared excessively happy in the
+possession of these treasures, and tried to express his thankfulness by
+various gesticulations, and the repetition of the words "Very good." He
+also seemed to hold the blue beads in great estimation, and could not
+feel convinced that all those riches actually belonged to him. He
+inquired in pantomime if he might really keep both necklaces; and on my
+assuring him that he might, the old man forgot his dignity, and jumped
+about like a boy with the beads in his hand, calling out, "Very good!
+very good!" A fat treasurer shared the joy of his lord, and
+punctiliously imitated its expression, though not without some
+difficulty. When this tumult of pleasure had a little subsided, the
+latter produced a small basket very prettily plaited, and provided with
+a lid, and placed in it the costly acquisitions of the _Eigeh_; who
+himself took from it a Spanish dollar, and endeavoured to make me
+comprehend the question, whether this would purchase more blue beads.
+
+To judge if he had any idea of the value of money, I offered him a
+single bead for his dollar; he immediately closed with the bargain, and,
+fearing that I might repent of mine, snatched up the bead and thrust the
+money into my hand. I returned it to him; but, to his delight and
+astonishment, left him in possession of the bead. I now tried to learn
+from him how he came by this coin. He soon comprehended my meaning,
+pointed to the south, named Tongatabu, one of the Friendly Islands,
+which are some days' voyage from his own, and gave us to understand that
+he had sailed thither in his own vessel, and had there met with a ship
+from whose _Eigeh_ he had obtained the dollar as well as the parasol.
+The boldness and skill these islanders display in the management of
+their fragile canoes, guiding them on long voyages merely by the sun and
+stars, in a region where the trade-wind is seldom constant, is most
+surprising.
+
+I also made some little presents to the suite of the _Eigeh_, and the
+good people were lost in amazement at their costliness, till their
+attention was withdrawn from them to the ship itself. Their inquisitive
+eyes wandered in all directions, and their astonishment and admiration
+was loudly expressed. The _Eigeh_ contemplated the objects before him
+with more tranquillity, and asked but few questions, having already seen
+a ship, which his companions probably had not.
+
+He remarked, however, with wonder the number of our guns and muskets,
+which he called _Puas_; counted them several times over, and clasped his
+hands above his head to express his surprise. He intimated to us that he
+knew the effect they produced, by pointing to a gun, trying to imitate
+the sound of the report, and then closing his eyes and hanging his head.
+He explained this to his companions, who were so terrified by what he
+told them, that they would not again venture near the guns.
+
+Meanwhile our traffic was renewed, though rather confusedly, from the
+impatience of the islanders to dispose of their property; the _Eigeh_
+grew angry at this, and pressed me much to fire my _puas_ on the
+boisterous mob. Was he then really acquainted with their destructive
+power, and so indifferent about human life? Or, was he aware of the
+possibility of firing with blank cartridges? This remained uncertain.
+
+A telescope which I held in my hand attracted the observation of the
+chief, who took it for a gun. I directed him to look through it; but the
+sudden vision of the distant prospect brought so close to his eye that
+he could even distinguish the people on the strand, so terrified him,
+that nothing could induce him to touch the magic instrument again.
+
+He took much pains to persuade me to visit him on shore, embraced me
+repeatedly, and gave me to understand that we might cast anchor by his
+island, and that we should there have as many pigs as we pleased. At
+length he took my arm, and leading me to the railing, whence we could
+see the throngs of islanders busied with their barter, pointed to the
+women among them, whom he called _waraki_, shook his head, and said "No
+very good." Then he pointed to the island, and said in a kind tone,
+"Very good _waraki_." I very easily withstood this last temptation,
+strong as the _Eigeh_ seemed to think it; but I would willingly have
+seen the beautiful country, had it been possible to make a landing under
+the protection of our guns, for which however the wind was not
+favourable: a longer stay might besides have rendered our situation
+critical. We had a perfect calm, and were driven by a strong current
+towards the land; I therefore took advantage of the first puff of wind
+to make as much sail as I could, amidst the loud lamentations of the
+islanders, who expressed their regret in a mournful parting song.
+
+The _Eigeh_, perceiving that his invitations would not be accepted, took
+a friendly leave of us: he seized me again by my elbows, hung his head,
+repeated several times the word "_Marua_," and departed. The canoes did
+not follow him, but remained near us, as our vessel could make but
+little way on account of the slackness of the wind.
+
+The traffic was now over, and the attention of our companions therefore
+free to observe all our proceedings in the ship. Some of them thought to
+amuse us by making leaps into the air, and then begged for a reward. We
+did not disappoint them, and the tricks were reiterated, till a sudden
+gust of wind changed their merriment into consternation. The canoes
+immediately ahead of the ship could not leave its passage clear in time
+to prevent our running down great numbers of them. In a moment our
+majestic vessel had distanced the multitude of its diminutive
+attendants, leaving extreme confusion behind it. The islanders' skill in
+navigation, however, enabled them speedily to recover from the shock,
+and the wind falling again, they succeeded in overtaking us. In the
+effort to accomplish this, they left all those to their fate who were
+still swimming about in search of their lost oars, and took no notice
+whatever of their cries for assistance. We pointed their attention to
+their forsaken companions, but the volatile creatures only laughed, and
+not a single canoe would return to take them in. At length, towards
+nightfall, they left us with the cry of "_Marua! Marua!_"
+
+Among these islanders we observed the disease of elephantism, from which
+the Tahaitians suffer so much; otherwise they appeared healthy. If, as
+the Tahaitian captain said, they are subject to the Friendly Islanders,
+and must pay a yearly tribute to Tongatabu, the island Maouna, which
+Nature herself has made a strong fortress, and whose inhabitants are
+such fierce warriors, is probably excepted.
+
+The following day we surveyed the magnificent island of Pola. Its lofty
+mountain was enveloped in thick white clouds, which seemed to roll down
+its sides, while the majestic summit rose into a cloudless region above
+them. The most luxuriant vegetation covers even its highest points.
+From a considerable elevation down the sea-shore, the island presents a
+charming amphitheatre of villages and plantations, and confirmed us in
+the opinion, that the Navigators' Islands are the most beautiful in the
+Southern Ocean, and consequently in the whole world.
+
+The shore was thronged with people, some of whom pushed their canoes
+into the sea to approach us, and others stood quietly watching us as we
+sailed past. The recurrence of a calm enabled the islanders to reach us,
+and our traffic with them was carried on in the same manner as with the
+natives of the Flat Island.
+
+To avoid repetition, I shall only remark, that they seemed more shy than
+our yesterday's friends; that one of them offered us a red paint for
+sale; and that another cheated us. The former daubed his face with some
+of the colour to show us its use. Since none of them were painted with
+it, it is probably only used in war, or on grand occasions. The cheat
+remained, when the darkness had driven the other islanders homewards,
+bargaining with us for the price of a hog: a sack was lowered to him
+with the required payment, and when drawn up was found to contain a dog.
+The rascal had made off, but we sent a bullet after him, which seemed to
+produce no small dismay.
+
+On the following day, the 7th of April, having completed our
+observations, we took our course with a fresh trade-wind and full sails
+towards the north-west, in a direction where, according to the opinion
+of hydrographers, islands must lie.
+
+With respect to our geographical observations on the Navigators'
+Islands, I must make one remark--that all the longitudes found by us
+differ from those of La Perouse by from 20 to 23', and the points
+observed lying so many miles more easterly than he considered them. His
+observations were grounded on the distance of the moon, which always
+gives a false longitude unless there is an opportunity of seeing the
+moon at equal distances, right and left, from the sun. Our longitudes
+were fixed by good chronometers, which having been regulated at Cape
+Venus, could not in so short a time have made any important error.
+
+[Illustration: CHART OF THE ISLANDS OF RADAK AND RALIK]
+
+
+
+
+RADACK CHAIN OF ISLANDS.
+
+
+
+
+RADACK CHAIN OF ISLANDS.
+
+
+On the 8th of April, at noon, we found ourselves, according to our
+observation, in the latitude 11 deg. 24' South, and in the longitude 174
+deg. 24'. We had left the north-west point of the island of Pola one
+hundred and forty miles behind us: the weather was fine, the horizon very
+clear, but we looked in vain from the mast-head for land.
+
+Hence we gave up any further search in this quarter, and directed our
+course to the north, for the shortest way to cut the Equator, and then,
+by the help of the north-east trade-wind, to reach Radack, where we
+intended to stop and make observations on the pendulum, the results of
+which, in the neighbourhood of the Equator, would be important to us. I
+appointed Otdia, belonging to this chain of islands, for our residence,
+as affording the most convenient anchorage for large ships.
+
+We were so much delayed by calms, that we could not till the 19th of
+April reach the ninth degree of south latitude. Here we encountered
+gusts of wind and torrents of rain, and a current carried us daily from
+twenty to thirty miles westward. When we were under three degrees south
+latitude, and one hundred and eighty degrees longitude, the current
+suddenly changed, and we were driven just as strongly to the East,--a
+circumstance too remarkable to be passed over in silence. At a distance
+from land in the vicinity of the Equator, the currents are always
+westerly. Here it was precisely contrary; from what cause I am unable to
+explain.
+
+From the fifth degree of south latitude to the Equator, we daily
+perceived signs of the neighbourhood of land. When we were exactly in 4
+deg. 15' latitude, and 178 deg. longitude, heavy gales brought swarms of
+butterflies and small land-birds to the ship; we must therefore have
+been near land, but we looked for it in vain; and this discovery remains
+for some future navigator.
+
+On the 22nd we cut the Equator in the longitude 179 deg. 43', and once
+more found ourselves in our own Northern hemisphere--nearer to our native
+country, though the course by which we must reach it would be still
+longer than that we had traversed. Our old acquaintance the Great Bear
+showed himself once more, and we looked upon him with joy, as though he
+had brought intelligence from our distant homes.
+
+We now again employed Parrot's machine to draw up water from a depth of
+800 fathoms. Its temperature was only six degrees of Reaumur, while that
+of the water at the surface was twenty-three degrees.
+
+A tolerably strong wind, which blew during several successive days,
+brought us within sight of the Radack Islands, on the morning of the
+28th of April.
+
+To those who are yet unacquainted with these islands, and cannot or will
+not have recourse to my former voyage, I must be excused giving a few
+particulars concerning them.
+
+In the year 1816, in the ship Rurik, I discovered the chain of islands
+called by their inhabitants, Radack. It consists of several groups lying
+near each other, and these again of many small islands united by reefs
+and surrounding great basins of water. All these being formed by the
+coral insect, are very low, and still but thinly covered with soil, so
+that they want the luxuriance of vegetation usual in this climate; their
+population is scanty; and the most important island of a group commonly
+gives its name to the whole.
+
+The Radackers are tall and well made, of a dark brown complexion; their
+black hair is neatly bound up, and that of the women decorated with
+flowers and strings of muscle-shells. Their features are soft and
+agreeable, and many of both sexes may be considered beautiful. They
+attain a great age, and though less robust than some other South Sea
+islanders, and subsisting wholly on fish and vegetables, are generally
+healthy. In gentleness and good-nature they excel them all, even perhaps
+the Tahaitians.
+
+The chief or sovereign of all these islands is named Lamari: the chiefs
+of the particular groups are subordinate to him; and under these are the
+chiefs of the separate islands composing each group. The chief of the
+group Otdia is called Rarik. I gave his portrait in my former voyage,
+and was particularly pleased with him, and with another native of the
+same group, named Lagediak. An inhabitant named Kadu of the group Kawan,
+no native, but thrown there by a storm from the island of Ulle, made the
+voyage from Otdia to Unalaschka and back with us in the ship Rurik, and
+gained the good-will of the whole crew. He gave us some instructions in
+the Radack language; and on our second visit could interpret pretty well
+between us and the islanders, as he already spoke a little Russian: his
+portrait also is prefixed to one of the volumes of my former voyage.
+
+After an absence of eight years, I was now again in sight of my
+favourite Radack Islands, where I had passed several weeks among some of
+the best of Nature's children. Whoever has read my former narrative,
+will imagine the pleasure with which I anticipated my certain welcome; I
+pictured to myself a meeting on which the heavens themselves appeared
+to smile. It was an uncommonly fine day, and a fresh and favourable wind
+carried us quickly towards land. Our inquiring glances soon showed us
+from the deck, on the island Otdia, the airy groves of palms which
+enclose the residence of Rarik, and under whose shade I had so often sat
+among the friendly islanders. We could now distinguish boats sailing
+about on the inner basins, from one island to another, and a crowd of
+people running to the shore to gaze at the ship. I knew my timid friends
+too well, not to guess what was passing in their minds. I had indeed, on
+parting from them, promised to visit them again, but the length of time
+which had since elapsed had probably extinguished this hope; and they
+would easily perceive that the great three-masted ship they now saw was
+not the small two-masted Rurik of their acquaintance. If, therefore, the
+first glimpse of the vessel had flattered them with the expectation of
+seeing me again, their pleasure had been ere this converted into fear.
+Uncertain how they might be treated by the strangers, the women and
+children fled to the interior, and all the canoes were set in motion to
+carry their little possessions to some place of comparative safety. The
+most courageous among them advanced armed with spears to the shore,
+displaying their valour while the danger was yet distant.
+
+It is not surprising that timorous apprehensions should agitate these
+poor people on the appearance of a strange vessel. Their western
+neighbours, the inhabitants of the island of Ralick, and of the southern
+islands of the groups Mediuro and Arno, which are much more thickly
+peopled, sometimes attack them with a superior force, plunder them,
+destroy their fruit-trees, and leave them scarcely subsistence enough to
+preserve them from starving. They had indeed imbibed from the crew of
+the Rurik a favourable opinion of white people; but the ship which now
+approached them was a monster in comparison of it, and they were
+excusable in supposing it manned by another and unknown race.
+
+We now reached the group Otdia, and sailed close under the outward reef,
+towards the Schischmaref Strait, through which I proposed to enter the
+basin. The sight of the ship diffused terror throughout all the islands
+as we passed, and the natives fled for concealment to the forests. As we
+approached the Lagediak Strait, the breeze was sufficient to warrant us
+in venturing through it; I therefore gave up my intention of entering by
+the Schischmaref Strait where the wind would be against us, spread all
+sail, and soon rode on the placid waters of the basin. I would not
+however advise seamen, without an adequate inducement, to choose this
+strait: it is so narrow, that stones might easily be thrown across from
+either shore; while, on the contrary, the breadth of the Schischmaref
+Strait admits of tacking, and renders its passage easy with a good ship.
+The water in the Lagediak is so transparent, that in a depth of fourteen
+fathoms, every stone at the bottom is discernible; the officer who sat
+in the tops on the watch for shallows, deceived by this appearance,
+expected every moment that the ship would run aground.
+
+We continued to sail pleasantly on the beautiful smooth water of the
+basin, but the wind blowing directly off the island of Otdia, (after
+which the whole group is named, and where I hoped to meet with Rarik,) I
+was compelled, as it grew dark, to cast anchor before the island of
+Ormed, in a depth of thirty-two fathoms, on a bottom of fine coral sand.
+Till the ship entered this natural harbour, the courage of the islanders
+did not quite forsake them, as they supposed the entrance to be unknown
+to us, and the exterior coast they trusted to the protection of the
+surf; but when we had penetrated into the basin, the panic became
+universal. We observed a constant running backwards and forwards on the
+shore; canoes hastily laden and rowed away, some to the right and some
+to the left, but none coming near us. The whole island of Ormed seemed,
+on our arrival, to have fairly given up the ghost. It was not till after
+dark that we could perceive any trace of life upon it; large fires were
+then kindled in two places at some distance from each other, while many
+smaller ones were flickering between them. We could also hear a sort of
+shrieking song, accompanied by the drum, which I knew to be their manner
+of calling on the gods for help, and which proved the extent of the
+alarm we had occasioned. This religious rite lasted through the night,
+but with the morning's dawn my friends had again disappeared, and the
+stillness of death prevailed as before.
+
+We weighed anchor, and endeavoured by tacking to reach Otdia; and in so
+doing, often came very close upon the little picturesque bright green
+islands which studded the sparkling lake. The fresh morning breeze
+wafted aromatic odours towards us; but the huts of the inhabitants stood
+empty and desolate. When we were near Otdia, we again descried canoes
+sailing as close as possible to the shore. The population was busy on
+the strand, but no one seemed rightly to know what should be done in
+this alarming crisis. We next saw a long procession of islanders,
+bearing branches of palm as symbols of peace, taking advantage of the
+ebb-tide to cross the reef towards Otdia, and carrying baskets of
+cocoa-nuts and other fruits on poles. Hence it appeared that my friends
+had yielded to their destiny, and hoped to win the favour of the
+intruders by humility and presents. From their former dismay, I
+anticipated that Kadu was absent, or he would have inspired his
+countrymen with more confidence.
+
+We dropped anchor at noon opposite Otdia, on the same spot where the
+Rurik formerly rode. I then ordered a small two-oared boat to be
+lowered, and to make my first visit as little formidable as possible to
+my friends, went ashore with only Dr. Eschscholz and two sailors. We
+rowed direct to Rarik's residence, where no human being was visible. A
+little canoe, bringing three men from a neighbouring island, now neared
+the shore, but immediately endeavoured to escape on observing that we
+steered towards it; in vain I waved a white handkerchief, a signal I had
+formerly been accustomed to make; they persisted in crowding sail, and
+taking all possible pains to get out of our reach; but their extreme
+anxiety now rendered that difficult which they usually perform with
+great dexterity. While they disputed vehemently among themselves, we
+gained materially upon them, and their entangled ropes refusing the
+assistance of their sails, they were on the point of trusting to their
+skill in swimming for safety, when two words from me changed all this
+terror into equally clamorous joy. I called to them "_Totabu_," the word
+into which they had tortured my name; and "_Aidarah_," an expression
+signifying both _friend_ and _good_. They stood motionless, waiting for
+a repetition of the cry, to convince themselves that their ears had not
+deceived them; but on my reiterating "_Totabu Aidarah_," they burst into
+the wildest acclamations of joy; called aloud to the shore, "_Hei
+Totabu, Totabu!_" and leaving their canoe to take care of itself, swam
+to land, incessantly repeating their exclamations of joy.
+
+The inhabitants of Otdia, who had been observing us from behind the
+bushes, now that the well-known name resounded through the island,
+sprang from their concealment, giving vent to their rapture in frolic
+gestures, dances, and songs. Numbers hurried to the strand; others ran
+into the water as high as their hips, to be the first to welcome us. I
+was now generally recognised, and called Rarik, because, according to
+the custom prevailing here, I had sealed my friendship with that chief
+by an exchange of names. They also recognised Dr. Eschscholz, who had
+been of my former expedition, and heartily rejoiced in seeing again
+their beloved "_Dein Name_." This was the name he had borne among them;
+because when they asked his name, and he did not understand the
+question, several of our people called to him "_Dein name_," which was
+immediately adopted as his designation.
+
+Four islanders lifted me from the boat, and carried me ashore, to where
+Lagediak awaited me with open arms, and pressed me most cordially to his
+bosom. The powerful tones of the muscle horn now resounded through the
+woods, and our friends announced the approach of Rarik. He soon appeared
+running at full speed towards us, and embraced me several times,
+endeavouring in every possible way to express his joy at our return.
+
+Though the friends to whom I was thus restored were but poor ignorant
+savages, I was deeply affected by the ardour of their reception; their
+unsophisticated hearts beat with sincere affection towards me,--and how
+seldom have I felt this happy consciousness among the civilized nations
+of the world!
+
+Even the women and children now made their appearance; and, among them,
+Rarik's loquacious mother, who with much gesticulation made me a long
+speech, of which I understood very little. When she had concluded, Rarik
+and Lagediak, each offering me an arm, led me to the house of the
+former.
+
+Upon a verdant spot before it, surrounded and shaded by bread-fruit
+trees, young girls were busily spreading mats for Dr. Eschscholz and
+myself to sit on. Rarik and Lagediak seated themselves facing us, and
+the mother (eighty years of age) by my side, at a little distance. The
+other islanders formed a compact circle around us; the nearest line
+seating themselves, and those behind standing, to secure a better view
+of us. Some climbed the trees; and fathers raised their children in
+their arms, that they might see over the heads of the people. The women
+brought baskets of flowers, and decorated us with garlands; and Rarik's
+mother, drawing from her ears the beautiful white flower of the lily
+kind, so carefully cultivated here as an indispensable ornament of the
+female sex, did her best to fasten it into mine with strings of grass,
+while the people expressed their sympathy by continual cries of
+"_Aidarah_." In the mean time the young girls were employed in pressing
+into muscle-shells the juice of the Pandanus, which they presented to
+us, with a sort of sweet-meat called Mogan, prepared from the same
+fruit; the flavour of both is very agreeable.
+
+We were now overwhelmed with questions from all sides; to which, from
+our imperfect knowledge of their language, we could return but few
+answers. Rarik and Lagediak expressed their astonishment at the size of
+our ship, inquired what was become of the Rurik, and, whether their
+friends Timaro, Tamiso, &c. (Schischmaref and Chamisso) were still
+living, how they were, and why they did not accompany us.
+
+After the first ebullition of joy at our meeting, I thought I perceived
+by the deportment of Rarik, that he had something on his mind; he
+seemed conscious of some fault, and in vain endeavoured, under friendly
+looks and words, to conceal a latent uneasiness. I even thought I could
+trace a similar feeling in his mother and Lagediak. Pained by these
+appearances, I asked an explanation. Rarik could no longer control his
+feelings, but immediately fell, like a repentant child, in tears upon my
+neck, without however confessing the cause of his agitation. On quitting
+the island eight years previously, I had appointed Kadu to the
+guardianship of the plants and animals we left behind, with the
+strongest injunctions on all the islanders to avoid injuring them, and
+threats of exacting a severe account on my return for any such offence.
+I had not yet ventured to inquire after them, fearful that the report
+might prove unsatisfactory, and cast a cloud over the pleasure of our
+meeting. It now occurred to me that Rarik must in some way have injured
+Kadu; perhaps he might even have put him to death. I looked sternly in
+Rarik's face, while I inquired after him, but he answered me quite
+innocently that Kadu was well and residing on the Aur group of islands
+with their chief Lamari. The old mother then took up the conversation,
+and very diffusively related that Lamari, soon after our departure, had
+come hither with a fleet, and forcibly carried to Aur all the animals,
+plants, tools, pieces of iron,--in short, whatever we had left on the
+island.
+
+Lagediak confirmed this tale, and added, that Lamari had demanded of
+every islander, under pain of death, the last piece of iron in his
+possession. Kadu, he said, soon after our departure, had married a
+handsome girl, the daughter or relation of the chief of Ormed; had been
+raised to the dignity of a Tamon-ellip, or great-commander, by Lamari;
+and having freely made over the half of his treasures to this personage,
+(a step which I had myself advised,) had been permitted to retain
+peaceable possession of the remainder. It was also by his own desire
+that Lamari had removed him to Aur, where he continued his
+superintendence of the plants and animals. Kadu had commissioned
+Lagediak to relate all these circumstances to me, with a request that I
+would visit him at Aur; an invitation which with regret I was prevented
+accepting by the large size of my ship.
+
+I was glad however that Kadu had settled in Aur, as I hoped that the
+animals and plants with which I had enriched these islands would
+flourish under his care; and I learnt from Rarik that when he was a
+short time before in Aur, on a visit to his father, they had propagated,
+and were doing well. Swine and goats already formed part of their
+festival provisions, and Rarik had himself partaken of such a feast. I
+rejoiced in this information, and in the promise it afforded, that
+through my means the time may be approaching when the barbarous custom
+of sacrificing the third or fourth child of every marriage, from fear of
+famine, may wholly cease.
+
+The cat was the only animal of those I had left at Otdia which remained
+there; and it was no longer of the domestic species; it had become very
+numerous and entirely wild, but as yet had occasioned no sensible
+diminution in the number of rats. It may be hoped, however, that as the
+cats have no other food, those voracious pests of the gardens may at
+length be exterminated. These cats, under the influence of a strange
+climate, and in an undomesticated state, may perhaps undergo some change
+of properties and habits, by which naturalists, always well pleased to
+enlarge their zoological lists, may be led to consider them as an
+unknown species of tiger. To obviate this error, I advertise such gentry
+beforehand, that the animal in question is absolutely nothing more than
+the ordinary European household cat.
+
+Of the plants which we had introduced to the Radackers, the vine alone
+had failed. Lagediak pointed out to me the spot on which we had planted
+it. It had withered, but not till, from the extreme fruitfulness of the
+soil, its tendrils had reached the tops of the highest trees.
+
+I was not surprised that Kadu should have married soon after our
+departure a native of the island of Ormed. The girls there are
+particularly handsome, and we had some suspicion of an affair of the
+heart, from the sudden change in his previous determination to accompany
+us to Russia, which took place immediately after an excursion he had
+made with Mr. Chamisso to Ormed. Fortunately for himself, he preferred
+a quiet domestic life under his own beautiful sky, to tempting the
+severity of our Northern climate, which would probably soon have
+destroyed him; and fortunately for his countrymen, he remained to
+cultivate among them the beneficial arts of gardening and breeding of
+cattle.
+
+The melancholy of Rarik still continuing after all this explanation, I
+again inquired the cause. He then tremblingly led me by the arm to the
+cocoa-tree, against which I had fastened a copper-plate, bearing the
+name of my ship, and the date of my discovery of the island, and
+denouncing severe punishment in case of its removal. It had
+disappeared:--how easily might Rarik and Lagediak, and the crowd of
+people, all equally dejected, who followed us, have excused themselves
+by an assertion, that Lamari, on his predatory expedition, had carried
+off this plate; but they were too honourable. Imploring my pardon, they
+candidly confessed that they had been deficient in their care of
+it,--that it had been stolen, and that they had been unable to discover
+the thief.
+
+Rejoiced to find that their melancholy arose from no cause more serious
+than this, I cordially embraced my friends, while they wept for joy in
+my arms. Their happiness was now complete, and the multitude returned
+with us, shouting for joy, to Rarik's dwelling, where an _Eb_, or
+artless opera, was represented; the subject,--my crew of the Rurik and
+myself: each song celebrated one of us individually, and the praises of
+the whole were chanted in the concluding chorus. I regretted much that I
+could not understand them better. The words, _moll_ (iron), _aidarah_
+(friend), _tamon_ (commander), _oa ellip_ (great boat), and Kadu's name,
+were frequently repeated. The Radackers preserve their traditions in
+these poetic representations; and as they assemble every evening to
+amuse themselves with dancing and singing, the children, while taking
+part in these innocent pleasures, learn the history of their country in
+the most agreeable manner, and communicate it in their turn to
+succeeding generations.
+
+When the dramatic piece was concluded, and I had distributed all the
+little presents I had brought, I returned to my vessel, my friends
+promising me a visit the same day.
+
+I now had all the boats lowered to bring ashore our tent and pendulum
+apparatus. The islanders received the sailors with great alacrity,
+brought them cocoa-nuts, helped them to disembark, and set up the tent,
+and appeared delighted with our intention of establishing ourselves on
+land.
+
+Rarik and Lagediak were the first who visited us in the afternoon. They
+rowed several times in their little canoe round the ship, contemplated
+it very attentively, and with emotions of wonder, repeatedly exclaiming,
+_Erico! Erico!_--a word denoting admiration. When I met them upon deck,
+they forgot to salute me, stood at first riveted to the spot like
+statues, till an "O, o!" stretched to a minute's length, gave vent at
+last to their astonishment. I led them round, and showed them all that
+could interest them, their surprise increasing with every novelty they
+saw.
+
+Lagediak inquired if the ship and all its appurtenances had been made in
+Russia; and on my answering in the affirmative, exclaimed, _Tamon
+Russia, ellip, ellip!_ words which my readers will now be prepared to
+understand.
+
+Lagediak soon commenced an admeasurement of the ship in all directions,
+with a string he had brought for this purpose: having obtained the
+dimensions of the ship's body, he next climbed the masts, to measure the
+yards and sails. My friends also expressed much surprise at the great
+number of men on board, and tried to count them. At the number ten, they
+always made a knot on a piece of string, and then began again. In
+comparison with the compliment of the Rurik, (only twenty men,) my
+present crew must have appeared extremely numerous.
+
+A crowd of the islanders soon came on board, without the least
+hesitation or fear. Though very merry, and quite at home, they were all
+well-behaved and modest. Incessant laughter pealed from below, where
+these lovers of mirth had mingled with our sailors, in all sorts of
+tricks and jests; the different parties danced and sang alternately,
+each laughing heartily at the performances of the other. They exchanged
+embraces and presents; of the guests especially not one was
+empty-handed: they had brought their finest fruit, and little specimens
+of their handiwork; and each, with unaffected cordiality, lavished the
+contents of his cornucopia on a chosen friend. The setting sun gave the
+signal for separation, and it was obeyed amidst mutual promises of
+meeting again on the morrow.
+
+Lagediak, after finishing his measurements, did not again move from my
+side. His desire of knowledge was boundless; nor could the explanations
+I was obliged to give upon the most insignificant articles satisfy his
+curiosity. On learning that we could stay only a few days at Otdia, he
+again became very sorrowful, and most earnestly pressed me to spend the
+remainder of my life here. He left nothing untried to procure my
+acquiescence in this wish: love, ambition, glory, were successively held
+out as lures: I should have the most beautiful woman of the islands for
+my wife,--should kill the tyrant and usurper Lamari, as he had killed
+his predecessor, and should reign in his stead Tamon of Radack. As I let
+him talk on without interruption, he supposed I should accede to his
+plans. In his joy over this offspring of his own imagination, he jumped
+about the cabin like a child, and, on quitting the ship, earnestly
+enjoined me to say nothing to Rarik of our project.
+
+Lagediak, on visiting me again the following morning, brought me roasted
+fish, bread-fruit, and fresh cocoa-nuts, for breakfast: he drank coffee
+with me, and appeared to think it not much amiss. He brought with him
+his son, about thirteen or fourteen years of age, to present to me. This
+interesting boy appeared to inherit the disposition of his amiable
+father. His intelligent countenance afforded a promise, which the
+modesty and propriety of his conduct confirmed: he might easily have
+been educated for our most refined society.
+
+Lagediak soon recurred to his yesterday's project of making me chief of
+Radack. He sketched the plan of its execution, and entered upon the
+further measures which would be requisite to give power and stability to
+the new government. We were first to sail to Aur and vanquish Lamari,
+and then to attack the hostile group of the Mediuro islands, the
+conquest of which would render me master of the whole chain of Radack.
+Animated by these valiant projects, he flourished his fist as if
+already in battle, till it encountered a tea-cup, which fell in a
+thousand fragments to the ground. His natural timidity suddenly banished
+the heroism into which his subject had wrought him: he feared he had
+done me an injury, and consequently incurred my displeasure. I
+re-assured him on this head, but gave him much pain by representing the
+impossibility of my remaining in Radack, as my duty called me elsewhere.
+After some minutes of silent consideration, he led his son to me, and
+begged I would take him with me to Russia. I was then obliged to explain
+to him that I should never return to Radack, and that if his son
+accompanied me, he must take leave of him for ever. This was too much
+for the father's heart; he embraced his son, and would no longer think
+of a separation. He was also overcome with sorrow at the idea of seeing
+me for the last time; and a little self-interest probably mingled in the
+melancholy look he cast upon a hatchet which I had given him, as he
+exclaimed--"I shall never get any iron again!"
+
+I now turned the conversation on the Mediuro, and expressed a wish to
+know how the campaign had prospered, which Lamari, when I was last here,
+was about to undertake against those islands. He understood me
+perfectly, and taxed to the utmost his powers of pantomime to give me an
+account of the war, in which he had himself been engaged.
+
+Lamari's fleet, as I understood my informant, consisted of forty
+vessels; and therefore, judging by the size of the boats here, the whole
+army could not be above four hundred strong, including the women, who,
+from the rear, lend assistance to the combatants by throwing stones at
+the enemy, and by assuming the surgeon's office. This force was
+collected from the whole Radack chain; the war was bloody, and lasted
+six whole days. Five of the enemy were slain, and Lamari gained a
+splendid victory with the loss of one man! The fleet returned
+triumphant, laden with cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, and pandanas. Kadu had
+especially distinguished himself: he was armed with a sabre and lance,
+and wore a white shirt, and wide trowsers, which formidable attire was
+completed by a red cap on his head. All the hatchets, above a hundred
+in number, which I had given to the Radackers, and which Lamari
+afterwards appropriated, were fastened on long poles and distributed
+among the best warriors; this gave the army of Lamari a great advantage;
+so that I might take credit to myself for the happy issue of the
+campaign.
+
+Lagediak informed me further that Lamari had also determined on an
+expedition to the Odia[6] group of islands, belonging to the Ralik
+chain. The inhabitants of these had heard something of the treasures
+which the Radackers had acquired by my visit, and their rapacity being
+excited, had made an attack on the Kawen group of the Radack chain,
+without the usual declaration of war, and thus taking the inhabitants by
+surprise, had beaten and plundered them, and returned home laden with
+booty, though the Kawen people had made a valorous resistance, and
+killed two of the Odians without losing a man themselves. This appeared
+to have occurred about a year before my arrival, and the vengeance of
+Lamari had been hitherto delayed; the levying and provisioning an army
+being here a work of time. Radack is so thinly peopled that all the
+islands must send their quota of men, which, on account of the extension
+of the chain, cannot be very speedily performed. For a voyage to the
+Ralik chain and back, victualling for four weeks at least is necessary,
+as the return is against the trade-wind. The Mogan, which is principally
+used in these expeditions, is very nutritious, and the Radackers are
+very moderate, so that a small quantity suffices for their support,
+otherwise they could not provision their canoes for voyages of this
+length.
+
+I was surprised to find Lagediak perfectly secure of the success of this
+undertaking, and expressed my fears that his countrymen might possibly
+be worsted, but he continued sanguine,--for the hatchets with which his
+brethren were armed, the sword, and dread-inspiring costume of Kadu,
+were sources of confidence which could not be abated.
+
+During this conversation in the cabin, several islanders came on board,
+and the noise from below resembled that of the preceding day. Rarik had
+also arrived, decorated with fresh garlands of flowers, and had brought
+me some trifling presents. The generally-dreaded Langin, Tamon of
+Egmedio, presented himself to me this day, for the first time: he
+appeared glad to see me; but when on deck, the size of the ship, and the
+number of the crew, impressed him with so much alarm, that his very
+teeth chattered. This anguish attack continued some time, but was at
+length cured by our friendly deportment.
+
+Accompanied by Rarik and Lagediak, I rowed ashore, and found Messrs.
+Preus and Lenz already busy with the pendulum. They were perfectly
+satisfied with the natives, who had behaved very well, and, except by
+special permission to come nearer, had kept at the appointed distance
+from the tent. They usually sat in a circle round the place, where the
+observations were made, and gazed with wonder at the astronomer who had
+so much business with the sun, taking him no doubt for a conjuror.
+
+In the hours of recreation, we allowed them to come to the tent, and
+they always joyfully availed themselves of the permission, performing a
+thousand little services, which made them appear really necessary to
+us, yet remaining invariably so modest, gentle, and friendly, that my
+company declared them to be, without exception, the most amiable people
+on earth.
+
+Rarik took me to his house, to witness another dramatic representation:
+the subject was the war on Mediuro. Women sang, or rather screamed, the
+deeds of the warriors; and the men in their dances endeavoured, by angry
+gestures and brandishing their lances, to describe the valour of the
+combatants. I expressed to Rarik my wish to know more of their method of
+warfare; he and Lagediak in consequence assembled two troops, which they
+opposed to each other at a short distance, as hostile armies; the first
+rank, in both, consisting of men, and the second of women. The former
+were armed with sticks instead of lances, the latter had their baskets
+filled with pandana seeds for stones, and their hair, instead of being
+as usual, tastefully bound up, hung dishevelled and wild about their
+heads, giving them the appearance of maniacs. Rarik placed himself at
+the head of one troop, and Lagediak of the other: both gave the signal
+for attack, by blowing their muscle horns. The adverse forces
+approached; but instead of the battle began a comic dance, in which the
+two armies emulated each other in grimaces, furious gesticulations, and
+a distortion of the eyes, which left only the whites visible, while the
+women shrieked a war-song, which, if their opponents had been lovers of
+harmony, would assuredly have put them to flight. The leaders on each
+side took no share in these violent exertions, but stood still,
+animating their troops by the tones of the muscle horn. When exhausted
+by these efforts, the horns were silent, and the armies separated by
+mutual consent, looking on while some of the most valiant from each side
+came forward to challenge with threats and abuse a champion of the enemy
+to single combat. This was represented by dancing and songs, and
+occasional movements with the hand, as if to throw the lance, which the
+antagonist sought to avoid by dexterously springing aside. The
+respective armies and their leaders animated the courage of their
+warriors by battle-songs, till the horns were blown again; the armies
+once more slowly approached each other; the champions retired into
+their ranks, and the battle was renewed with a prodigious noise; spears
+waved in the air; pandana seed flew from the delicate hands of the
+female warriors, over the heads of their husbands, upon the enemy, but
+the armies never came near enough to be really engaged. The leaders
+remained in front loudly blowing their horns, and sometimes giving
+commands. At length, by accident or design, one of Lagediak's men fell;
+the battle was now over, the victory decided, and the signal given for
+drawing off the forces. Both armies were so exhausted, that they threw
+themselves on the grass, and amidst laughing and merriment, gave
+themselves up to repose.
+
+A large sailing-boat now put ashore, and an old man with white hair and
+beard was lifted from it; his shrivelled skin hung loosely over his
+emaciated form, and his weakness was so extreme, that he could only
+approach us by crawling on his hands and feet: Rarik and Lagediak went
+to meet and welcome him. It was my old acquaintance, Langediu, Tamon of
+Ormed. When our frigate lay at anchor before his island, he had not
+ventured, he said, to visit us, not knowing whether we were friends or
+foes; but when he heard that Totabu was arrived, he determined to make
+an effort to see me once more before his death. The old man crawled up
+to me and embraced me, shedding tears of joy; he talked a great deal,
+and spoke of Kadu being with Lamari in Aur.
+
+On my former visit, the traces of old age were scarcely perceptible in
+Langediu; but in the intervening eight years they had increased rapidly;
+still, although his body was so weak that he could only crawl on
+all-fours, he retained all the faculties of his mind, all his original
+vivacity and good-humour, and his facetious remarks excited the
+merriment of the whole assembly. I have in many instances observed that
+at Radack, old age brings with it no particular disease, and that the
+mind remains unimpaired till its mortal covering sinks into the grave. A
+fine climate, moderate labour, and a vegetable diet, probably all
+contribute to produce this effect.
+
+Langediu having intimated his wish to see the Oa ellip, I immediately
+rowed in my boat to the ship, followed by him in his Oa warro, or war
+canoe: he was much pleased with the vessel, and all that he saw, and not
+less so with the little presents he received; but a circumstance
+occurred that caused the honourable old man some chagrin: one of his
+attendants having concluded a friendship with the cook, took advantage
+of it to secrete a knife in his canoe; the cook missed the knife, and
+his suspicions immediately fell on his friend. His person and canoe were
+searched, and on the discovery of the stolen treasure the criminal
+confessed his fault. He trembled exceedingly, probably remembering the
+flogging one of his countrymen received on board the Rurik for a similar
+offence. As my stay was this time to be so short, I considered the
+flogging superfluous, and magnanimously forgave him, with a reproof, and
+an admonition never to steal again. Poor old Langediu was much hurt. He
+crawled about the ship in an agitated manner, exclaiming, _Kabuderih emo
+aidarah_ (stealing not good), severely reprimanded, and threatened the
+offender,--showed him all the presents received from us, observing how
+much we must be shocked to be robbed, notwithstanding all our
+generosity. He then led him to the guns, made him remark their great
+number, and said, _Manih Emich_, _manih ni_, _ma_, (kill the island,
+kill the cocoa-trees, bread-fruit trees). Probably the old man had
+learned from Kadu the effect the guns would produce. After much chafing
+and scolding, he ordered the offender back into the canoe, and forbade
+him to come again on board:--not a word did the thief utter the whole
+time, and instantly obeyed the order to quit the vessel, but the old
+master could not be pacified. He frequently repeated, "_Kabuderih emo
+aidarah_," and his visit afforded him no more pleasure. He took an early
+leave of us, requesting that we would come to him on his island.
+
+The face of the thief appeared familiar to me; and Lagediak, in answer
+to my inquiries, informed me, laughing, that this was the brother of the
+man who had been beaten on board the Rurik. The propensity to theft
+appears to be a family failing. No other Radacker during our stay
+attempted to purloin the smallest trifle.
+
+In the afternoon, a large boat sailed through the Lagediak Straits into
+the basin. I flattered myself with the arrival of some of my friends
+from Aur, perhaps Kadu himself; but it was the gay Labugar from Eregub,
+brought hither by curiosity, having seen us sail past his island.
+
+When he heard who the strangers were, he immediately came to the ship.
+His joy at seeing me again was very great; but he regretted much that
+his friend Timaro, with whom he had exchanged names, was not of our
+company. The spirits of Labugar had lost during eight years none of
+their sprightliness; but his face looked much older, and his hair had
+become grey.
+
+The fine weather induced me on the 3rd of May to visit Langediu on the
+island of Ormed; he received me with the greatest joy, and offered me
+his most costly treasures as presents. The children, grand-children, and
+great-grand-children of the good old man assembled round his house, and
+represented a dramatic piece for my amusement, in which Langediu himself
+played a principal part, and astonished me by the animation of his
+action and singing. As this was one of the best representations I have
+seen in Radack, I will describe it, in the hope that my readers also
+will not be uninterested in it.
+
+The number of the _dramatis personae_ was twenty-six, thirteen men and
+thirteen women, who seated themselves in the following order on a spot
+of smooth turf. Ten men sat in a semicircle, and opposite to them ten
+women in a semicircle also, so that by uniting the points, an entire
+circle would have been formed, but a space of about six feet was left at
+both ends, in each of which sat an old woman provided with a drum. This
+drum, made of the hollow trunk of a tree, is about three feet long, six
+inches in diameter at each end, narrowed like an hour-glass, to half
+that thickness in the middle. Both ends are covered with the skin of the
+shark: it is held under the arm, and struck with the palm of the hand.
+In the middle of the circle, old Langediu took his station with a
+handsome young woman, sitting back to back. The whole party were
+elegantly adorned about the head, and the females about the body also,
+with garlands of flowers. Outside the circle stood two men with muscle
+horns. The hollow tones of these horns are the signal for a chorus
+performed by the whole company, with violent movements of the arms and
+gesticulations meant to be in consonance with the words. When this
+ceased, a duet from the pair in the middle was accompanied by the drums
+and horns only; Langediu fully equalling his young companion in
+animation. The chorus then began again, and this alternation was
+repeated several times, till the young songstress whose motions had been
+growing more and more vehement, suddenly fell down as dead. Langediu's
+song then became lower and more plaintive: he bent over the body, and
+seemed to express the deepest sorrow; the whole circle joined in his
+lamentations, and the play concluded.
+
+Deficient as was my knowledge of the language, I was still able clearly
+to understand the subject of this tragedy, which represented a marriage
+ceremony. The young girl was forced to accept of a husband whom she did
+not love, and preferred death to such an union. Perhaps the reason of
+old Langediu's playing the part of the lover might be, to give more
+probability to the young bride's objections and resolution.
+
+The young females assembled here, among whom the deceased bride of
+Langediu soon reappeared, fresh and lively as ever, reminded me of
+Kadu's assertion, that the women of Ormed were the handsomest in Radack.
+Some of them were really very attractive, and their flowery adornments
+extremely becoming. These people have more taste than any other of the
+South Sea islanders; and the manner in which the women dress their hair,
+and decorate it with flowers, would have a beautiful effect even in an
+European ball-room. When the actors had recovered from the fatigue of
+their performance, dinner, which some of the females had been long
+preparing in the hut, was served to us. Only a few of the persons
+assembled enjoyed the honour of partaking our meal. Some of these were
+females. The ground of Langediu's hut was covered with matting, on which
+we sat, and the provisions were placed on clean cocoa-leaves in the
+middle. Every one had a cocoa-leaf for a plate. Upon the dishes were
+laid wooden spoons, with which the guests helped themselves,--an
+improvement since my former visit to Radack, when their mode was to help
+themselves from the dish with their hands. Langediu remarked, that the
+order of his table pleased me, and said _Mamuan Russia mogai_ (the
+Russians eat so). I rejoiced in the increased civilization denoted by
+this more becoming mode of eating; probably introduced by Kadu, who had
+seen it during his stay among us. I enjoyed a still greater pleasure,
+when after the first course of baked and bread-fruits, came one of yams,
+which I had brought hither from the Sandwich Islands. At Otdia, I had
+been told that Lamari had carried away to Aur all the plants I had left
+behind. I was therefore much surprised at the sight of the yams. They
+perfectly supply the place of our potatoes, are wholesome and pleasant,
+and, if cultivated with moderate industry, are a certain resource
+against famine. Langediu told me, that Kadu had planted the yams on
+Ormed, and after dinner showed me a pretty large field very well
+stocked with them.
+
+The delightful feelings with which I surveyed the new plantation may be
+imagined, when it is recollected, that these poor islanders, from want
+of means of subsistence, are compelled, assuredly with heavy hearts, to
+murder their own offspring, and that this yam alone is sufficient to
+remove so horrible a necessity. I might joyfully affirm, that through my
+instrumentality the distressed mother need no longer look forward to the
+birth of her third or fourth child with the dreadful consciousness that
+she endured all her pain only to deliver a sacrifice to the hand of the
+murderer. When she should clasp her child to her breast, and see her
+husband look on it with a father's tenderness, they might both remember
+"Totabu," and the beneficent plants which he had given them. I beg
+pardon for this digression, and return to our dinner.
+
+After the yams, a number of dishes were produced, prepared from the
+powdered cocoa-wood, which is made with water into a thick paste, and
+then baked in small cakes: it has no taste at all, and cannot be very
+nutritious. A dessert of Mogan and Pandana juice concluded the repast.
+The drink was cocoa-milk, sucked from a small hole made in the nut. The
+conversation, in which the females, who are treated extremely well, took
+part, was very lively, but perfectly decorous. I wished to understand
+more of it: from single words, I inferred that they were speaking of the
+ship and of the dramatic entertainment, and should have been glad to
+have contributed my share to the general amusement. After I had
+delighted the host and the amiable company by presents of hatchets,
+knives, scissors, and necklaces, which latter were by no means in as
+great estimation here as on the Navigators' Islands, I took my leave,
+and returned early in the evening to the ship.
+
+Time passed very quickly at Otdia, as it usually does when pleasantly
+spent; and, to the great sorrow of our friends, the day of our departure
+drew near. On Sunday the sailors were allowed to amuse themselves on
+shore; and as there were some musicians among them, they carried their
+instruments with them, to take leave of the islanders with a brilliant
+musical festival. The jubilee that ensued exceeds all description. The
+whole population of Otdia and the neighbouring islands assembled round
+our tent, and the music acted upon them like Huon's horn in Oberon. They
+danced and leaped about, sometimes hurrying the sailors into similar
+antics, and forming altogether a scene which would have provoked the
+most solemn philosopher to laughter. I was much pleased with observing
+the cordial good-will that subsisted between the natives and my crew,
+and with the reflection that this second visit would also leave on the
+minds of the Radackers an impression favourable to white men.
+
+The females looked on at a distance during these gambols. Decorum did
+not allow them to mingle in them, and also restrained them from ever
+visiting the ship.
+
+Among the groups I observed a crowd of children assembled round an
+elderly sailor, who was amusing and caressing them. He had been on duty
+outside the tent ever since our arrival at the islands; and as the
+Russians are particularly fond of children, these little creatures had
+grown quite sociable with him. A pretty lively little girl appeared his
+especial favourite. She was allowed to play him all kinds of tricks,
+without being reproved; and even when she pulled him by the hair, he
+pulled again, and seemed as much entertained as she was.
+
+When the islanders learned the day fixed for our departure, they visited
+us on board in greater numbers than ever, always bringing presents with
+them. They spoke of parting with great sorrow, and earnestly pressed us
+to return soon. With respect to the presents we had recently made them,
+they expressed their fears that Lamari would again plunder them, when he
+should learn that we had been there. I therefore commissioned Lagediak,
+in the presence of a great number of islanders, to inform Lamari, from
+me, that if he should ever presume to plunder the possessor of the
+smallest article presented by us, whenever white men should again visit
+Radack, they would, without fail, take signal and severe vengeance upon
+him. He understood me, and promised to execute my commission.
+
+Lagediak now seldom left me; and his grief at our approaching separation
+was really affecting. On the morning of the appointed day, the 6th of
+May, when we had begun to weigh anchor, he came in great haste in a
+large canoe, and brought a number of young cocoa-plants. On my inquiring
+for what purpose he intended them, he answered, that he wished me to
+plant them in Russia, in remembrance of him. I then recollected his
+having once asked me if cocoa-trees grew in Russia, and that I had of
+course replied in the negative. He had then turned the conversation on
+some other subject, and I thought no more of it. He had however resolved
+on enriching my country with this fine fruit, and had reserved for the
+day of our parting this last proof of his regard. I explained to him
+that it was far too cold in Russia for the cocoa-trees to flourish, and
+that for that reason I was unwilling to rob him of his plants. He
+mourned much over the failure of his kind intentions, packed up his
+plants again, and when he saw our sails spread and our departure
+inevitable, took leave of us like a child that is forcibly separated
+from beloved parents. To the rest of our friends we had bidden farewell
+the evening before.
+
+We sailed through the Schischmaref straits, and then between the Otdia
+and Aur groups, whence we steered directly to the group Ligiep, in order
+to lay down correctly its eastern coasts, for which, in my former
+voyage, circumstances had been unfavourable. On the following day we
+reached the southern edge of this group, and sailed near enough to see
+from thence clear over to the northern. We then proceeded westward,
+keeping always near enough to the islands to distinguish objects upon
+them with the naked eye. I now plainly perceived that the course I had
+taken in the Rurik had prevented my seeing the whole of this group; and
+the result is, that it appears on the accompanying map, according to our
+present correct survey, half as large again as I had before represented
+it.
+
+The inhabitants of Ligiep, on seeing the ship, directly put out to sea
+from between the reefs, in a crowd of sailing canoes, to follow us, but
+were too timid to come within cannon-shot. We lay-to, when they also
+took in their sails, but contented themselves with contemplating us from
+a safe distance; and as the favourable weather would not permit us to
+waste more time, we continued our voyage without making farther attempts
+to entice them to the ship.
+
+On the north-west, of the group Ligiep we found several larger islands,
+which, being covered with fine cocoa-trees, induced the supposition that
+they may be more thickly peopled.
+
+We also found, as is shown upon the map, two broad entrances to the
+inland sea round which this group is scattered, which, after a very
+accurate examination, appeared perfectly safe and convenient for the
+passage of the largest ship of the line, since, according to their
+direction, it is possible, by help of the trade-wind, to sail in and out
+without tacking. There seems no doubt that the interior of this group
+offers the best anchorage; and should any navigator wish to put into
+Radack, I recommend this harbour to him as the most commodious.
+
+At noon the north-west point of the Ligiep group lay about a mile off us
+due east, and we found by a close observation the latitude to be 10 deg.
+3' 40" North, and the longitude 190 deg. 58' 3".
+
+Directly after this observation, I had all sail set, and steered with a
+fresh wind to the north-west, in the hope of falling in with the group
+Ralik.
+
+As darkness came on, we again took in most of the sails, and endeavoured
+to keep the vessel during the night as much as possible on the same
+spot. With break of day we continued our voyage; but the weather,
+hitherto so fine, now became very gloomy. The heavy rain permitted us
+only to see to a short distance; and as no hope of improvement appeared,
+I gave up the idea of visiting Ralik, and bent my course direct for
+Kamtschatka.
+
+We often thought and conversed upon the interesting inhabitants of
+Radack, of whom we had for ever taken leave. Since this chain lies far
+out of the course usually pursued by navigators in the South Sea, it
+will not soon be visited again, and may in course of time be entirely
+forgotten. Whether this will be for their benefit or their misfortune,
+he who rules the destinies of man can alone foresee.
+
+It is certain that the Radack chain has been peopled much later than
+most of the South Sea islands; but whence, and at what period, is quite
+unknown. If a conjecture may be hazarded, it would be, that the
+inhabitants owe their origin to the Corolinas. They have no tradition on
+the subject. Their language is quite different from all the Polynesian
+dialects, and appears of more recent formation. Whence have these people
+derived characters so much superior to those of other South Sea
+islanders, many of whom, enjoying as fine a climate, and a more
+bountiful soil, resemble beasts of prey? I attribute this in some
+measure to the superior purity of manners among the females. Experience
+teaches us, that wherever that sex is held in its due estimation, morals
+are proportionably refined.
+
+To be thus esteemed, woman must resist the attacks of licentiousness.
+When she associates virtue with her other attractions, she will soon
+obtain an influence over the most savage of the other sex; and thus have
+the females of Radack contributed to form the amiable character of their
+countrymen.
+
+Other fortunate circumstances may have combined with this, to which the
+ante-christian Tahaitians were certainly not indebted. It is justice,
+however, to assert here, that, upon perfect conviction, I give a decided
+preference to the Radackers over the inhabitants of Tahaiti.
+
+  END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.
+
+  LONDON:
+  PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY,
+  Dorset Street, Fleet Street.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] Namely English miles, of which sixty go to a degree, and four to a
+German mile. Whenever, in this Voyage, miles are mentioned, English
+miles are to be understood.
+
+[2] The longitude is always calculated from Greenwich, in this work.
+
+[3] "Formidable is man in his misguided zeal."
+
+[4] The measurement given is two Russian wersts, of which one hundred
+and four and a half make a degree, or, as nearly as possible, one and a
+half make an English mile. The exact circumference therefore of the
+lake, as given, is one mile and one third.
+
+[5] Upon the maps, Lione and Fanfoune; the termination in _h_ denotes,
+in the Polynesian language, the accent upon the last syllable; as in the
+Tahaitian name Pomareh.
+
+[6] This group must not be confounded with _Otdia_ where we were at this
+time.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A New Voyage Round the World in the
+Years 1823, 24, 25, and 26. Vol. 1, by Otto von Kotzebue
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