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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/25508-8.txt b/25508-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c3817cf --- /dev/null +++ b/25508-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4057 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Strand District, by +Sir Walter Besant and Geraldine Edith Mitton + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Strand District + The Fascination of London + +Author: Sir Walter Besant + Geraldine Edith Mitton + +Release Date: May 17, 2008 [EBook #25508] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE STRAND DISTRICT *** + + + + +Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + + + + +_THE FASCINATION OF LONDON_ + +THE STRAND DISTRICT + + +_IN THIS SERIES._ + +Cloth, price 1s. 6d. net; leather, price 2s. net each. + + +THE STRAND DISTRICT. + +By SIR WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON. + + +WESTMINSTER. + +By SIR WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON. + + +HAMPSTEAD AND MARYLEBONE. + +By G. E. MITTON. Edited by SIR WALTER BESANT. + + +CHELSEA. + +By G. E. MITTON. Edited by SIR WALTER BESANT. + + +KENSINGTON. + +By G. E. MITTON. Edited by SIR WALTER BESANT. + + +HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY. + +By Sir WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON. + + +HAMMERSMITH, PUTNEY, AND FULHAM. + +By G. E. MITTON and J. C. GEIKIE. + + +MAYFAIR, BELGRAVIA, AND PIMLICO. + +_In the press._ + + + + +[Illustration: HOLYWELL STREET, STRAND + +(_Demolished 1901_)] + + + + +The Fascination of London + +THE STRAND +DISTRICT + +BY +SIR WALTER BESANT +AND +G. E. MITTON + +LONDON +ADAM & CHARLES BLACK +1903 + + +_Published July, 1902_ + +_Reprinted, with corrections, April, 1903_ + + + + +PREFATORY NOTE + + +A survey of London, a record of the greatest of all cities, that should +preserve her history, her historical and literary associations, her +mighty buildings, past and present, a book that should comprise all that +Londoners love, all that they ought to know of their heritage from the +past--this was the work on which Sir Walter Besant was engaged when he +died. + +As he himself said of it: "This work fascinates me more than anything +else I've ever done. Nothing at all like it has ever been attempted +before. I've been walking about London for the last thirty years, and I +find something fresh in it every day." + +He had seen one at least of his dreams realized in the People's Palace, +but he was not destined to see this mighty work on London take form. He +died when it was still incomplete. His scheme included several volumes +on the history of London as a whole. These he finished up to the end of +the eighteenth century, and they form a record of the great city +practically unique, and exceptionally interesting, compiled by one who +had the qualities both of novelist and historian, and who knew how to +make the dry bones live. The volume on the eighteenth century, which Sir +Walter called a "very big chapter indeed, and particularly interesting," +will shortly be issued by Messrs. A. and C. Black, who had undertaken +the publication of the Survey. + +Sir Walter's idea was that the next two volumes should be a regular and +systematic perambulation of London by different persons, so that the +history of each parish should be complete in itself. This was a very +original feature in the great scheme, and one in which he took the +keenest interest. Enough has been done of this section to warrant its +issue in the form originally intended, but in the meantime it is +proposed to select some of the most interesting of the districts and +publish them as a series of booklets, attractive alike to the local +inhabitant and the student of London, because much of the interest and +the history of London lie in these street associations. For this purpose +Chelsea, Westminster, the Strand, and Hampstead have been selected for +publication first, and have been revised and brought up to date. + +The difficulty of finding a general title for the series was very great, +for the title desired was one that would express concisely the undying +charm of London--that is to say, the continuity of her past history +with the present times. In streets and stones, in names and palaces, her +history is written for those who can read it, and the object of the +series is to bring forward these associations, and to make them plain. +The solution of the difficulty was found in the words of the man who +loved London and planned the great scheme. The work "fascinated" him, +and it was because of these associations that it did so. These links +between past and present in themselves largely constitute The +Fascination of London. + +G. E. M. + + + + +CONTENTS + + + PAGE + +PREFATORY NOTE vii + + +PART I + +WEST AND NORTH OF CHARING CROSS 1 + + +PART II + +PICCADILLY AND ST. JAMES'S SQUARE 37 + + +PART III + +THE STRAND 67 + + +INDEX 112 + +_Map at end of Volume._ + + + + +THE STRAND DISTRICT + + + + +PART I + +WEST AND NORTH OF CHARING CROSS + + +Beginning at the extreme westerly limit of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, +on the south side of Hyde Park Corner, we find ourselves in the Green +Park. This is a triangular piece of ground, which was formerly called +Little or Upper St. James's Park. It has not much history. In 1642 +fortifications were erected on Constitution Hill, and at the end of the +seventeenth century this same spot was a noted place for duels. +Fireworks on a great scale, with public entertainments, took place in +the park at the Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle, and again in 1814. On +Constitution Hill three attempts were made on the life of Queen +Victoria. The chief object of interest in the park is Buckingham Palace, +which is not altogether in St. Martin's; in fact, the greater part, +including most of the grounds, is in the adjacent parish of St. +George's, Hanover Square. The palace is a dreary building, without any +pretence of architectural merit, but it attracts attention as the London +home of the English Sovereign. + +It stands on the site of Arlington House, so called from its connection +with Henry Bennet, Earl of Arlington (the Earl whose initial supplied +one of the _a's_ in the word "Cabal"). John Sheffield, Duke of +Buckingham, bought the house and rebuilt it in 1703, naming it after +himself, and including in the grounds part of the land belonging to Tart +Hall, which stood at the head of St. James's Street, and has been +mentioned in the account of the adjoining parish of St. Margaret's, +Westminster. Buckingham House was bought from Sir Charles Sheffield, son +of the above-mentioned Duke, by the Crown in 1762. In 1775 it was +granted to Queen Charlotte as a place of residence in lieu of Somerset +House, and at this period it was known as Queen's House. George IV. +employed Nash to renovate the building, and the restoration was so +complete as to amount to an entire rebuilding, in the style considered +then fashionable; the result is the present dreary building with +stuccoed frontage. The interior is handsome enough, and, like that of +many a London house of less importance, is considerably more cheerful +than the exterior. The chief staircase is of white marble, and the rooms +are richly decorated. The state apartments include drawing-rooms, +saloons, and the throne-room, which is sixty-four feet in length. The +picture-gallery contains a collection of pictures made by George IV., +chiefly of the Dutch school; it includes works of Rembrandt, Rubens, +Vandyck, Dürer, Cuyp, Ruysdael, Vandervelde, and others. + +The grounds are about forty acres in extent, and contain a large piece +of ornamental water, on the shore of which is a pavilion, or +summer-house, with frescoes by Eastlake, Maclise, Landseer, Dyce, and +others, illustrating Milton's "Comus." The channel of the Tyburn, now a +sewer, passes under the palace. The Marble Arch, at the north-east +corner of Hyde Park, was first designed to face the palace, where it +stood until 1850. + +The palace is partly on the site of the well-known Mulberry Gardens, a +place of entertainment in the seventeenth century. These gardens +originated in an order of James I., who wished to encourage the rearing +of silkworms in England. This project, like many others of the same +King, proved a failure, and the gardens were turned into a place of +public recreation. The frequenters were of the fashionable classes, and +came in the evening to sit in small arbours, and "be regaled with +cheesecakes, syllabubs, and wine sweetened with sugar." In this form the +place was extremely popular, and is often mentioned in contemporary +literature. Dryden came there to eat tarts with "Mrs." Anne Reeve, and +doubtless Evelyn and Pepys often strolled about in the gay crowd, a +crowd much gayer than it would now be--in the matter of costume, at all +events. The scene of "The Mulberry Gardens," a play by Sir Charles +Sedley (1668) is laid here. + +Stafford House, not far from St. James's Palace, and overlooking the +Green Park, is now tenanted by the Duke of Sutherland. It was originally +built for the Duke of York, brother to George IV., but he died before +its completion. It stands on the site of an older building, called +Godolphin House, and also occupies the site of the Queen's Library +formed by Caroline, wife of George IV. + +St. James's Palace is divided into many sets of apartments and suites of +rooms, and in this way resembles more the ancient than the modern idea +of a palace. On its site once stood a hospital for fourteen leprous +women, which was founded, as Stow quaintly says, "long before the time +of any man's memory." Maitland says the hospital must have been standing +before 1100 A.D., as it was then visited by the Abbot of Westminster. +Eight brethren were subsequently added to the institution. Several +benevolent bequests of land were made to it from time to time. In 1450 +the custody of the hospital was granted perpetually to Eton College by +Henry VI. In 1531 Henry VIII. obtained some of the neighbouring land +from the Abbey of Westminster, and in the following year he took the +hospital also, giving lands in Suffolk in exchange for it. There is +reason to believe that he pensioned off the ejected inmates. At any +rate, having demolished the House of Mercy, he proceeded to build for +himself a palace, which is supposed to have been planned by Holbein, +under the direction of Cromwell, Earl of Essex. Henry VIII. was too much +occupied in taking possession of Wolsey's palaces to bestow very much of +his time on his own new building, though he occasionally resided here +before he acquired Whitehall. Edward VI. did not live at St James's +Palace regularly, but Queen Mary patronized it, preferring it to +Whitehall. It was granted to Prince Henry during the reign of James I., +and Charles I. spent the last three days before his execution here. The +Prince known as the "Pretender" was born in one of the palace +apartments, and many historians have commented on the fact that this +chamber was conveniently near a small back-staircase, up which a +new-born infant could have been smuggled. During the reign of King +William the palace was fitted up as a residence for Prince George of +Denmark and Princess Anne. When the Princess ascended the throne, the +palace became the regular residence of the Court, which it continued to +be until the accession of Queen Victoria, who preferred Buckingham +Palace. + +The only parts remaining of King Henry's building are the gatehouse, +some turrets, a mantelpiece in the presence chamber, which bears the +initials H. and A. (Henry and Anne Boleyn) with a true lovers' knot, the +Chapel Royal (which has, of course, been renovated), and the +tapestry-room. Levées are still held at the palace. + +On the west of the gatehouse a series of apartments were being prepared +for the Duke of Clarence at the time of his death, and were afterwards +assigned to the present Prince and Princess of Wales. At the west end is +Clarence House, in the occupation of the Duke of Connaught. This was +occupied by the King of Prussia and his sons on their visit to England +in 1814. The Duchess of Kent resided here until 1861. + +The Lord Chamberlain's offices and residence, and also the official +residence of the Keeper of the Privy Purse, are among the official +chambers in the palace. There are minor offices also, those of the Clerk +of the Works, and the Gentlemen of the Wine Cellar; there are state +apartments and the quarters of the Gentlemen at Arms and the Yeomen of +the Guard. There are several courts in the palace, namely, the +Ambassadors' Court, Engine Court, Friary Court, and Colour Court. There +have been various chapels connected with the palace, but the only two +of importance are the Chapel Royal and German Chapel, which still +remain. + +The Chapel Royal is supposed to be on the site of the chapel of the +ancient hospital, and various Norman remains dug up in the course of +repairs favour this supposition. The roof is beautifully decorated in +panels by Holbein; the date of its completion is supposed to be 1540. +Prince George and Princess Anne; Frederick, Prince of Wales; George IV.; +Queen Victoria; and the Empress Frederick, were all married in this +Chapel. + +The German Chapel was founded in 1700 by Princess Anne; service was held +in it once on Sundays up to the present reign, but has now been +discontinued. + +Just opposite to the palace is Marlborough House, the residence of the +Prince and Princess of Wales. The house was built in 1709 at the public +expense, as a national compliment to the Duke of Marlborough. Sir +Christopher Wren was the architect. After the death of the third Duke it +was sublet to Leopold, subsequently King of the Belgians. Queen Adelaide +lived in it after the death of King William IV. The building was +afterwards used as a gallery for the pictures known as the Vernon +Collection. But in 1850 it was settled on King Edward VII., then Prince +of Wales, when he should attain his eighteenth year, which he did nine +years later. The interior is decorated with beautiful mural paintings +executed by La Guerre; many of these represent the battles of the famous +Duke of Marlborough. On the removal of the King to Buckingham Palace the +present Prince of Wales comes in his turn to Marlborough House. + +Carlton House Terrace owes its name to Carlton House, built by Henry +Boyle, Baron Carlton, in Queen Anne's reign. It was afterwards sold to +Frederick, Prince of Wales, and was occupied subsequently by George IV. +before he succeeded to the throne. J. T. Smith says: "Many a saturnalia +did those walls witness in the days of his hot youth." Princess +Charlotte was born here. In 1811 the ceremony of conferring the regency +upon Prince George was enacted at Carlton House, and in the June +following the Prince gave a magnificent supper to 2,000 guests. In 1827 +the house was pulled down. It stood right across the end of the present +Waterloo Place, where now a flight of steps lead into the park. At the +head of the steps is the York Column of granite, 124 feet high, designed +by Wyatt, and surmounted by a figure of the Duke of York, son of George +III. + +One of the sights of London in the seventeenth century, was the garden +which lay between St. James's Park and Charing Cross, called Spring +Gardens. The place was laid out as a bowling-green; it had also butts, +a bathing-pond, a spring made to scatter water all around by turning a +wheel. There was also an ordinary, which charged 6s. for a dinner--then +an enormous price--and a tavern where drinking of wine was carried on +all day long. In the "Character of England," 1659, attributed to Evelyn, +the following account of Spring Gardens is found: + +"The manner is as the company returned [from Hyde Park] to alight at the +Spring Gardens so called, in order to the Parke, as our Thuilleries is +to the Course; the inclosure not disagreeable, for the solemness of the +grove is broken by the warbling of the birds, as it opens into the +spacious walks at St. James's; but the company walk in it at such a +rate, you would think that all the ladies were so many Atalantas +contending with their wooers.... But fast as they run they stay there so +long as if they wanted not time to finish the race; for it is usual here +to find some of the young company till midnight; and the thickets of the +garden seem to be contrived to all advantages of gallantry; after they +have been refreshed with the collation, which is here seldom omitted, at +a certain cabaret, in the middle of this paradise, where the forbidden +fruits are certain trifling tarts, neats' tongues, salacious meats, and +bad Rhenish; for which the gallants pay sauce, as indeed they do at all +such houses throughout England." + +After the Restoration the gardens were built over. Prince Rupert lived +here 1674-1682. Colley Cibber, actor and prolific dramatist, had a house +"near Bull's Head Tavern in Spring Gardens, 1711-14"; Sir Philip Warwick +and George Canning were also among the residents. + +"Locket's ordinary, a house of entertainment much frequented by gentry," +was on the site of Drummond's Bank: + + "Come, at a crown ahead ourselves we'll treat: + Champagne our liquor, and ragouts our meat; + + * * * * * + + With evening wheels we'll drive about the Park, + Finish at Locket's, and reel home i' the dark." + +Vague rumour assigns an earlier house to Cromwell on the same spot. The +bank was established about 1712 by Mr. Andrew Drummond, a goldsmith. +George III. transferred his account from Coutts' to Drummond's when he +was displeased with the former firm, and he desired Messrs. Drummond to +make no advances to Frederick, Prince of Wales, who also had an account +here. This order was obeyed, with the consequences that in the +succeeding reign the royal account was transferred again to Messrs. +Coutts. The County Council offices are at present a very noticeable +feature in Spring Gardens, and the aspect of the place is no longer +rural. + +The part of Whitehall included in St. Martin's parish is not very +large, yet it is of some importance. On the west side is Old Scotland +Yard, for long associated with the headquarters of the Metropolitan +Police, now removed to New Scotland Yard. Stow says: + +"On the left hand from Charing Cross are also divers tenements lately +built till ye come to a large plot of ground inclosed with brick, and is +called Scotland, where great buildings have been for receipt of the +Kings of Scotland and other estates of that country, for Margaret Queen +of Scots and sister to King Henry VIII. had her abiding here when she +came to England after the death of her husband, as the Kings of Scotland +had in former times when they came to the Parliament of England." + +Here for some time was the official residence of the Surveyor of Works +to the Crown, and Inigo Jones and Sir Christopher Wren were both +occupants. Sir J. Vanbrugh also resided at Scotland Yard, and as +Secretary to the Council Milton had an official residence here before he +went to Petty France, as described in the book on Westminster in the +same series. + +Craig's or Cragg's Court, in which is the Royal Almonry office, is shown +in old maps. Strype speaks of it as a "very handsome large Court, with +new buildings fit for gentry of Repute." It was built in 1702, and is +supposed to have been called after the father of Secretary Craggs, who +was a friend of Pope and Addison. Woodfall, the publisher, had a West +End office in the court, and Romney the painter lived there. There is a +fine old Queen Anne house still standing at the back of the court. + +Opposite Scotland Yard is the Admiralty, built round a courtyard, and +hidden by a stone screen surmounted by sea-horses. The screen was the +work of the brothers Adam, and was put up to hide a building which even +the taste of George III.'s reign declared to be insufferable. This had +been built for the Admiralty in 1726, and replaced old Wallingford +House, so called from its first owner, Viscount Wallingford, who built +it in the reign of James I. George Villiers, the well-known Duke of +Buckingham, bought the house, and used it until his death. Archbishop +Usher saw the execution of Charles I. from the roof, and swooned with +horror at the sight. The house was occupied by Cromwell's son-in-law, +General Fleetwood, and in 1680 became Government property. In one of the +large rooms the body of Nelson lay in state before his national funeral. + +St. Catherine's Hermitage, Charing Cross, stood somewhere near Charing +Cross. It is believed to have been about the position of the +post-office. It belonged to the See of Llandaff, and was occasionally +used as a lodging by such Bishops of that See as came to attend the +Court and had no town-house. + +St. Mary Rounceval, on the site of Northumberland House, was founded by +William Marischal, Earl of Pembroke, in Henry III.'s reign. The Earl +gave several tenements to the Prior of Rounceval, in Navarre, who +established here the chief house of the priory in England. The hospital +was finally suppressed by Edward VI. The little village of Charing then +stood between London and Westminster. It formed part of the great +demesne belonging to the Abbey of Westminster, and was inhabited chiefly +by Thames fishermen, who had a settlement on the bank, and by the +farmers of the Westminster estates. The derivation of the name from _La +Chère Reine_ is purely fanciful. + +There is certainly no part of London which has been so much changed as +Charing Cross. In other parts the houses are changed, but the streets +remain. Here the whole disposition of the streets has been transformed. +The secondary part of the name recalls the beautiful cross, the last of +the nine which marked the places where Queen Eleanor's coffin rested on +its journey from Lincolnshire to Westminster Abbey. The cross was +destroyed by the fanatical zeal of the Reformers. The equestrian statue +of Charles I., cast in 1633 by Le Soeur, occupies the site of the +cross. It had not been set up when the Civil War broke out, and was sold +by the Parliament to John Rivit, a brazier, who lived by the Holborn +Conduit, on condition that it should be broken up. John Rivit, however, +buried the statue, and dug it up again after the Restoration. It was not +until 1674 that it was actually erected, on a new pedestal made by +Grinling Gibbons, in the place which it now occupies, which is the site +of the old cross, the place where the regicides were executed, and where +the Charing Cross pillory stood. It is curious to remark on the +preservation of the site of the cross. It was apparently railed in; some +of the stones of which it was made were used in paving Whitehall. +Ballads were written on its destruction: + + "Undone, undone, the lawyers are; + They wander about the towne, + Nor can find the way to Westminster + Now Charing Cross is downe. + At the end of the Strand they make a stand, + Swearing they are at a loss, + And chaffing say that's not the way, + They must go by Charing Cross." + + CUNNINGHAM. + +Many of the regicides were executed at this spot in Charles II.'s reign, +within sight of the place where they had murdered their King. These men, +according to the brutal temper of the times, were cut down when half +hanged and disembowelled before a great concourse of people. Pepys +mentions going to the executions as to a show. Later the pillory stood +here in which, among others, Titus Oates suffered. But, besides these +dismal reminiscences, Charing Cross was at one time famed for its +taverns and festive places of amusement, and was the resort of wits and +literati in the eighteenth century. Dr. Johnson speaks of the "full tide +of human existence" being at Charing Cross, and if he could see it now +he might be confirmed in his opinion. + +At the top of the present Northumberland Avenue stood formerly +Northumberland House, the last of the Strand palaces to be destroyed, +and until its destruction the chief glory and ornament of the street and +Charing Cross. It was never an episcopal palace, having been built in +1605 by the Earl of Northampton; from him it went to the Earl of +Suffolk, and was called for a time Suffolk House; in 1642 it fell into +the hands of the Earl of Northumberland, and by marriage into those of +the Duke of Somerset until 1749, when the daughter of the Duke of +Somerset succeeded, and by her marriage with Sir Hugh Smithson the house +became the property of this family, now Dukes of Northumberland, until +its compulsory sale in the year 1874. The house originally consisted of +three sides of a quadrangle, the fourth side lying open with gardens +stretching down to the river. The front was wrongly attributed to Inigo +Jones. The house had been repaired or rebuilt in many places, so that +there was not much that was ancient left in its later days. By the side +of Northumberland House formerly ran Hartshorn Lane, now entirely +obliterated. Ben Jonson was born here, and lived here in his childhood. + +Trafalgar Square was built over the site of what was formerly the Royal +Mews, a building of very ancient foundation; and a rookery of obscure +and ill-famed lanes and alleys on the west and north of St. Martin's +Church, popularly known as the Bermudas, and afterwards the Caribbean +Islands. In the midst of the mews stood a small and remarkable building +called Queen Elizabeth's Bath. It is almost impossible to estimate the +difference between the then and the now, in regard to this particular +part. St. Martin's Lane continued right up to Northumberland House, +where the lion of the proud Percies stiffened his tail on the parapet. +The house stood across the present head of Northumberland Avenue. The +Royal Mews themselves were where the fountains now splash, and on the +further side of them was Hedge Lane. + +Pennant says the Mews was so called from having been used for the King's +falcons--at least, from the time of Richard III. to Henry VIII. In the +latter King's reign the royal horses were stabled here, but the name +Mews was retained, and has come to be applied to any town range of +stabling. The mews were removed to make way for the National Gallery +about 1834. Geoffrey Chaucer, the poet, was Clerk of the King's Works, +and of the Mews at Charing about the end of Richard II.'s reign. During +the Commonwealth Colonel Joyce was imprisoned in the Mews by order of +Oliver Cromwell. + +It is supposed that we are indebted to William IV. for the idea of a +square to be called Trafalgar in honour of Nelson, and to contain some +worthy memorial of the hero. The total height of the monument, designed +by Railton, is 193 feet, and its design is from that of one of the +columns of the Temple of Mars at Rome. The statue, which looks so small +from the ground, is really 17 feet high, nearly three times the height +of a man; it was the work of E. H. Baily, R.A. The pedestal has bronze +bas-reliefs on its four sides, representing the four greatest of +Nelson's battles, Trafalgar, St. Vincent, Aboukir, and Copenhagen. The +massive lions on the extended pedestal were designed by Sir Edwin +Landseer. + +Of the other statues, that of George IV. is by Sir Francis Chantrey, and +was originally intended for the top of the Marble Arch, and that of +General Gordon was designed by Hamo Thorneycroft. Bronze blocks let into +the north wall of the square contain the measures of the secondary +standards of length, and were inserted here in 1876 by the Standards +Department of the Board of Trade. The Union Club and College of +Physicians are on the west side of the square. The latter was founded by +Dr. Linacre, physician to King Henry VIII. + +The National Gallery was not designed as it now stands, but grew +gradually. The idea of a collection of national pictures began in 1824, +when the Angerstein Collection of thirty-eight pictures was purchased. +The building began in 1832, and was opened six years later, but there +were then only six rooms devoted to the national collection, the +remainder being used by the Royal Academy of Arts. The Academy, however, +betook itself to Burlington House in 1869, and subsequently the National +Gallery was enlarged, and is now well worthy of its name. The English +are taunted with not being an artistic nation; this may be, but they +recognise merit when they see it, and the national collection need fear +comparison with no other in the world. The sections of the gallery +include Italian schools, schools of the Netherlands and Germany, +Spanish, French, and British schools; in the last named the Turner +Collection claims two rooms. + +St. Martin's Church was founded by Henry VIII., who disliked to see the +funerals of the inhabitants passing through Whitehall on their way to +St. Margaret's, Westminster, but there had probably been an +ecclesiastical building on or near this site from a very early date. In +1222 there was a controversy between the Bishop of London and the Dean +and Chapter of St. Paul's on the one hand and the Abbot and Canons of +Westminster on the other, as to the exemption of the chapel and convent +of the latter from the jurisdiction of the former. The matter was +settled in favour of Westminster. It is probable that this chapel was +for the use of the monks when they visited their convent garden. + +In 1721 the old church was pulled down, and a new one built from the +designs of Gibbs the architect, whose bust stands in the building near +the entrance. A rate was levied on the parish for expenses, but money +poured in so liberally that a gift of £500 toward the enrichment of the +altar was declined. + +The building has been derided, but it has the merit of a bold +conception. Ralph in "Publick Buildings" says: "The portico is at once +elegant and august, and the steeple above it ought to be considered one +of the most tolerable in town. The east end is remarkably elegant, and +very justly challenges a particular applause; in short, if there is +anything wanting in this fabric, it is a little more elevation." + +The only original features in the interior are the two royal pews, not +now used, which look down on the altar. St. Martin's is the royal +parish, including in its boundaries Buckingham Palace and St. James's, +but the births of the Royal Family are not registered here, as has been +frequently stated. There is no monument in the church of any intrinsic +interest, and the only other noticeable details are two beautiful mosaic +panels on either side of the chancel, put up by Lady Frederick Cavendish +to the memory of her husband. + +Among the names of those buried in the old church is that of Vansomer, a +portrait-painter. Nell Gwynne, Roubiliac, and Jack Sheppard--whose first +theft took place at Rummer's Tavern, near Charing Cross--lie in the +burial-ground. There is a large crypt, with vaulted roof, below the +church, and here are several monuments from the old building, and also +the ancient whipping-post. + +Before the erection of the palaces along the riverside the fishermen of +the Thames lived beside the river bank at Charing Cross. A piece of +ground in the churchyard of St. Martin's was set apart for their use and +kept separate. Meantime, as one after the other of the Bishops' +town-houses were built, the fishermen found themselves pushed farther up +the river, until finally they were fairly driven away, and established +themselves at Lambeth, where the last of them lived in the early part +of the nineteenth century. Their burial-ground, meantime, was preserved +even after they had disappeared. The churchyard of St. Martin's was +curtailed in 1826, and the parish burial-ground removed to Pratt Street, +Camden Town. + +Behind the National Gallery is the National Portrait Gallery, opened in +1896, and opposite to it St. Martin's Town Hall, with the parish +emblem--St. Martin dividing his cloak with a beggar--in bas-relief on +the frontage. + +Charing Cross Road is very modern. It was opened in 1887, and swept over +a number of narrow courts and alleys. + +For St. Martin's Lane, see p. 16. + +In this is the Public Library, where some watercolours and old prints of +vanished houses are hung on the staircase. There is also the +eighteenth-century plan from Strype's Survey, well worth studying. + +Leicester Square, at first known as Leicester Fields, is associated with +the Sidneys, Earls of Leicester, who had a town-house on the north side, +where the Empire Music-hall is now. This was a large brick building, +with a courtyard before it and a Dutch garden at the back. During the +reign of Charles I. and in the time of the Commonwealth the Sidneys +tenanted it, but later it was occupied by foreign Ambassadors. +Elizabeth, Queen of Bohemia, took it in 1662, and afterwards it was +aptly described by Pennant as "the pouting-place of Princes"; for +George, son of George I., established here a rival Court when he had +quarrelled with his father, and his son Frederick, the Prince of Wales, +did precisely the same thing. During the latter tenancy a large building +adjoining, called Savile or Ailesbury House, was amalgamated with +Leicester House. George III. was living here when hailed King. Savile +House stood until the Gordon Riots, when it was completely stripped and +gutted by the rioters. The square was presented to the public in 1874 by +Baron Albert Grant, M.P. The gift is recorded on the pedestal of the +statue of Shakespeare standing in the centre. + +The square was for long a favourite place for duels. A line drawn +diagonally from the north-east to the south-west corner roughly +indicates the boundary of St Martin's parish, the upper half of the +square being in St. Anne's, Soho. + +The associations of this part are numerous and very interesting. The +busts of the four men standing in the corners of the centre garden have +all some local connection. They are those of Hogarth, Sir Joshua +Reynolds, Sir Isaac Newton, and John Hunter. Hogarth's house was on the +east, on the site of Tenison's School, and next to it was that of John +Hunter, the famous surgeon. Sir Joshua Reynolds bought No. 47 on the +west side in 1760, and lived in it until his death. Sir Isaac Newton +lived in the little street off the south side of the square, at the back +of the big new Dental Hospital. His house is still standing, and bears a +tablet of the Society of Arts. It is quite unpretentious--a +stucco-covered building with little dormer-windows in the roof. The +great scientist came here in 1710, when he was nearly sixty, and his +fame was then world-wide. Men from all parts of Europe sought the dull +little street in order to converse with one whose power had wrought a +revolution in the methods of scientific thought. In the same house Miss +Burney afterwards lived with her father. Sir Thomas Lawrence took +apartments at No. 4, Leicester Square, in 1786, when only seventeen, but +he had already begun to exhibit at the Royal Academy. The square was for +long a favourite place of residence with foreigners, and has not even +yet lost a slightly un-English aspect. + +Archbishop Tenison's School is at the south-east corner of the square. +Its founder, who was successively Bishop of Lincoln and Archbishop of +Canterbury, intended that it should counterbalance a flourishing Roman +Catholic school in the Savoy precincts. Among old boys may be mentioned +Postlethwaite, afterwards Master of St. Paul's; Charles Mathews, when +very young; Horne Tooke a former Lord Mayor of London; and Liston who +was for a time usher. + +As stated above, the northern half of the square is in the parish of St. +Anne's, Soho, a parish now tenanted to a very large extent by +foreigners, chiefly French and Italians. Shaftesbury Avenue, running +diagonally through the parish, is of very recent origin. + +Soho has been derived from the watchword of Monmouth at Sedgemoor, +because the Duke had a house in Soho, then King's Square. It is much +more likely that the reverse is the case, and the Duke took the +watchword from the locality in which he lived, for the word Soho occurs +in the rate-books long before the Battle of Sedgemoor was fought. In +1634 So-howe appears in State papers; and various other spellings are +extant, as Soe-hoe, So-hoe. This district was at one time a favourite +hunting-ground, and Halliwell-Phillipps in the "Dictionary of Archaic +and Provincial Words" suggests that the name has arisen from a favourite +hunting cry, "So-ho!" + +The parish was first made independent of St. Martin's in 1678. Soho has +always been a favourite locality with foreigners. There were three +distinct waves of emigration which flooded over it: first after the +revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1635; then in 1798, during the +Reign of Terror; and thirdly in 1871, when many Communists who had +escaped from Paris found their way to England. At the present time half +the population of the parish consists of foreigners, of which French and +Italians preponderate, but Swiss, Germans, and specimens of various +other nationalities, are frequently to be met with in the streets. + +The parish church of St. Anne's was so named "after the mother of the +Virgin Mary and in compliment to Princess Anne." The site was a piece of +ground known as Kemp's Field, and the architect selected was Sir +Christopher Wren. The building is in all respects like others of its +period, but has a curious spire added later. This has been described as +"two hogsheads placed crosswise, in the ends of which are the dials of +the clock," and above is a kind of pyramid, ending in a vane. + +The old churchyard lies above the level of the street, and has been +turned into a public garden. Facing the principal entrance in Wardour +Street is a stone monument to King Theodore of Corsica, and a small +crown on the stone marks his rank. King Theodore died in this parish +December 11, 1756, immediately after leaving the King's Bench Prison, by +the benefit of the Act of Insolvency, in consequence of which he +registered his kingdom of Corsica for the use of his creditors. + +His epitaph was written by Horace Walpole: + + "The grave, great teacher, to a level brings + Heroes and beggars, galley slaves and kings. + But Theodore this moral learned ere dead: + Fate poured its lessons on his living head, + Bestowed a kingdom, but denied him bread." + +Close by is a monument to the essayist Hazlitt, born 1778, died 1830. +The inscription says that he lived to see his deepest wishes gratified +as he expressed them in his essay on the "Fear of Death," and proceeds +to set forth at considerable length the tenor of those wishes. + +During the dinner-hour, when the weather is fine, the graveyard seats +are filled by the very poorest of the poor, many of them aliens, far +from their own country, and sad beneath the gray skies of the land that +gives them bread, but denies them sun. + +In the registers are recorded the baptisms of two of the children of +George II., and five of the children of Frederick, Prince of Wales, born +at Leicester House, in this parish. + +Wardour Street has long been celebrated for its shops of old china, +bric-à-brac, and furniture. It can claim Flaxman among its bygone +residents. + +Dean Street is a long and narrow thoroughfare, a favourite residence +with artists at the end of the eighteenth century; the names of Hayman, +Baily, Ward, and Belines are all to be found here in association. Sir +James Thornhill lived at No. 75, where there are the remains of some +curious staircase paintings by him, in the composition of which he is +said to have been assisted by his son-in-law, Hogarth. Turner, the +father of the great painter, was a hairdresser in Dean Street, and +Nollekens' father died in No. 28. In the house adjoining the Royalty +Theatre Madame Vestris was born. + +Frith Street in old maps is marked "Thrift Street," a name by no means +inappropriate at the present time. It also has its associations, and can +claim the birth of Sir Samuel Romilly, the great law reformer, who lived +until the early part of the nineteenth century, and whose father was a +jeweller here; the early boyhood of Mozart, and the death of Hazlitt, +which took place in furnished lodgings. The failure of his publishers +had made him short of money; he was harassed by pecuniary cares, yet his +last words were: "I've had a happy life." + +The following advertisement bearing date March 8, 1765, is worth +quotation: "Mr. Mozart, the father of the celebrated Young Musical +Family who have so justly raised the Admiration of the greatest +musicians of Europe, proposes to give the Public an opportunity of +hearing these young Prodigies perform both in public and private, by +giving on the 13th of this month a concert which will be chiefly +conducted by his Son, a boy of eight years of age, with all the +overtures of his own composition. Tickets may be had at 5s. each at Mr. +Mozart's, or at Mr. Williamson's in Thrift Street, Soho, where Ladies +and Gentlemen will find the Family at Home every day in the week from 12 +to 2 o'clock and have an opportunity of putting his talents to a more +particular proof by giving him anything to play at sight or any Music +without a Bass, which he will write upon the spot without recurring to +his harpsichord." + +In this street there are many interesting relics of bygone splendour. +No. 9--now to let--has a splendid well staircase with spiral balusters. +The walls and ceiling of this are lined with oil-paintings of figures +larger than life. These have unfortunately been somewhat knocked about +during successive tenancies, but clearly show that the house was one of +considerable importance in past times. It was in lodgings in this street +that Mrs. Inchbald wrote her "Simple Story," published 1791, in four +volumes, which was an immediate success. She was an actress as well as +an author, and a friend of the Kembles. Her dramatic writings were very +many. + +At No. 13, Greek Street were Wedgwood's exhibition-rooms. In No. 27 De +Quincey used to sleep on the floor by permission of Brumel, the +money-lender's attorney. + +On the other side of Shaftesbury Avenue, and parallel with it, is +Gerrard Street, a dingy, unpretending place, but thick with memories and +associations. It was built about 1681, and was called after Gerard, Earl +of Macclesfield. Wheatley quotes from the Bagford MSS. of the British +Museum to the effect that "Henry, Prince of Wales, son of James I., +caused a piece of ground near Leicester Fields to be walled in for the +exercise of arms. Here he built a house, which was standing at the +Restoration. It afterwards fell into the hands of Lord Gerard, who let +the ground out to build upon." Hatton speaks of "Macclesfield House, +alias Gerrard House, a well-built structure situate in Gerrard Street +... now (1708) in possession of Lord Mohun." Dryden lived in Gerrard +Street in a house on the site of one marked by a tablet of the Society +of Arts. He died here, and his funeral was interrupted by a drunken +frolic of Mohocks headed by Lord Jeffreys. Close by is an hotel, where +once Edmund Burke resided; opposite to him J. T. Smith lodged, as he +tells us in "Nollekens and his Times," and he could look into Burke's +rooms when they were lighted, and see the patient student at work until +the small hours of the morning. Charles Kemble and his family also +resided in this street. + +On the site of the Westminster General Dispensary was a tavern named the +Turk's Head, where the well-known literary club had its origin. The +members were at first twelve in number, including Sir Joshua Reynolds, +Dr. Johnson, Edmund Burke, Dr. Nugent, Topham Beauclerk, Mr. Langton, +Dr. Goldsmith, and Sir J. Hawkins. In 1772 the number of the members was +increased to twenty, and instead of meeting weekly, on Mondays, for a +supper, they met every fortnight, on a Friday, and dined together. David +Hume was here in 1758, and the actor Edmund Kean passed most of his +boyhood in this street, sheltered by a couple who had adopted him when +his mother deserted him in Frith Street. All his early boyhood is +associated with this neighbourhood; he was found in Frith Street, and +his schools were in Orange Court, Leicester Square, and Chapel Street, +Soho. The dispensary is in itself interesting, being one of the very +oldest institutions of the kind, established in 1774. + +Charing Cross Road follows very nearly the course of the old Hog Lane, +later Crown Street, which bounded the parish on the east. St. Mary the +Virgin's Church is on the west side, and the building has had many +vicissitudes. In 1677 it was erected by the Greek congregation in Soho, +and had the distinction of being the first church of that community in +England. It was afterwards used by a French Protestant community, and +then by a body of Dissenters. In 1849 it stood in imminent peril of +being turned into a dancing-saloon, but was rescued and became Church of +England. + +The very centre and nucleus of the parish has always been Soho Square, +which was built in the reign of Charles II., and was at first called +King Square--not in compliment to the monarch, but after a man named +Gregory King, who was associated with the earliest buildings. It is a +place of singular attractiveness, an oasis in a desert; many of the +houses are picturesque. The square garden is not large, but it is +planted with fine trees. From the very beginning the square was an +aristocratic locality, and the houses tenanted by the nobility; the most +important of these, Monmouth House, occupied the whole of the southern +side. This was architecturally a very extraordinary building, and the +interior was very magnificent. "The principal room on the ground-floor +was a dining-room, the carved and gilt panels of which contained +whole-length pictures. The principal room on the first-floor was lined +with blue satin superbly decorated with pheasants and other birds in +gold. The chimneypiece was richly ornamented with fruit and foliage; in +the centre, within a wreath of dark leaves, was a circular recess for a +bust" ("Nollekens and his Times"). + +The Duke of Monmouth obtained the site for this house in 1681, but he +did not long enjoy his possession, for four years later he suffered the +penalty of his pretensions and was executed. The house was later +occupied by successive French Ambassadors; it was demolished in 1773. +The houses at present standing at the south end of the square must have +been built immediately after the destruction of Monmouth House, and +possibly the materials of the older building were used in their +construction. The Hospital for Women shows some traces of former +grandeur in panelled rooms and decorative cornices. The hospital was +only established in these quarters in 1851, so the house may have had +fashionable tenants before. + +On the same side is the Rectory House, which was probably built directly +after the demolition of Monmouth House in 1773. Here there are to be +found all the characteristics of an eighteenth-century building, +including a decorative ceiling by Flaxman. In the south-west corner of +the square there is the house in which is now the Hospital for Diseases +of the Heart and Paralysis. This was at one time the headquarters of the +Linnæan Society, before its removal to Burlington House. It contains +some beautiful ceilings and cornices, and one room, now a female ward, +is worthy of special notice. A very lofty arched ceiling of rather +unusual construction is beautifully decorated, and the overmantel and +fireplace are exquisite. + +In the opposite or south-east corner of the square is the House of +Charity. This was formerly the residence of Alderman Beckford, twice +Lord Mayor of London in George III.'s reign, who was credited with being +the only man of his day who dared tell the King the truth to his face. +His son was the author of "Vathek." The house is now a house of mercy, +for the assistance of orphans, homeless girls, and all who, through no +fault of their own, find themselves without a roof to shelter them or +work to do. The charity is Church of England, and under the direction of +a Warden and Council. The fine decorative wooden overmantels and +doorways still remain, and the joints and edges of the panels are all +carved, which gives a very handsome appearance to some of the rooms. The +council-room ceiling is a large oval with the figures of four cherubic +boys in relief, carrying respectively flowers, a bird, fire, and water, +to represent the four elements. + +One of the former famous houses in the square was Carlisle House. The +walls were of red brick, and the date on the cisterns 1669, the date of +the creation of the earldom of Carlisle. In its later days the house +became notorious from its connection with Mrs. Cornelys, the daughter +of an actor, who was born at Venice in 1723, and who, after a tarnished +career in various Continental towns as a public singer, came to the +King's Theatre, London, to take part in one of Gluck's operas. She took +possession of Carlisle House, and projected a series of society +entertainments, which proved a marvellous success. The square was +blocked with the coaches and chairs of her patrons. In Taylor's "Records +of my Life" it is stated she had as many as 600 persons in her saloon at +one time, at two guineas per head. Foreign Ministers, many of the +nobility, scions of royalty, flocked to her rooms. She spent profusely +and lavishly. The decorations were superb, the entertainments +magnificent, in the ceremonious and rather affected style of the period. +In 1770 she was at the climax of prosperity. "Galas, masquerades, and +festivals, all equally splendid, succeeded one another throughout the +season" (Clinch); but after her sky-rocket ascent came the fall: fickle +Fashion deserted her, and finally the house and its contents were +announced in the _Gazette_ for sale. The Pantheon had proved too +formidable a rival. In 1785 the property was in Chancery, and Mrs. +Cornelys died in the Fleet Prison in 1797. The banqueting-hall in Sutton +Street, attached to Carlisle House by a covered way, was converted into +the Chapel of St. Patrick, and where masqueraders had revelled priests +heard confession. This also eventually disappeared, to make way for the +present church, which is such a feature of the square; it stands at the +corner of Sutton Street, and bears the name of its predecessor. It was +opened 1893, and its campanile reaches a height of 125 feet. Within the +porch is a beautiful marble group of the dead Christ, supported by an +angel. The pictures inside are exceptionally valuable and beautiful, +including paintings by Vandyke, Murillo, Carlo Dolci, Paul Veronese +(attributed), and many others. On the opposite side of the street +Messrs. Crosse and Blackwell's factory also covers a house owning +historical associations. No. 21 was the "White House," and 22, +"Falconberg House," in former times. The latter was the residence of +Oliver Cromwell's third daughter, Lady Falconberg, who died in 1712. +Sutton Street takes its name from the county seat of the Falconbergs. In +this house Sir Cloudesley Shovel's body lay in state before its +interment, after having been found cast up on one of the Scilly Islands. +A Spanish Ambassador was among the later residents, and afterwards the +house was for a time an hotel. In the large drawing-room the ceiling was +painted by Angelica Kauffmann. The Duke of Argyll, the Earl of Bradford, +and Speaker Onslow, were among its tenants. This house is now the +offices of Messrs. Crosse and Blackwell. The painted ceiling was +carefully taken down and saved from destruction by one of the heads of +the firm. The chief articles of interest remaining are a handsome +overmantel in one of the private rooms of the firm, and a curious +ceiling. The former is of wood, and is varnished and painted in various +tones of bronze and gold. The carving upon it is very elaborate and +enigmatical. The panelled ceiling has some affinity with it, but has +been modernized, and is not so interesting. The front of the house +remains as it was, and claims to be the only original frontage in the +square. + +The centre of the square, when first laid out, was occupied by a +fountain surmounted by a statue of Charles II. in armour, the work of +Colley Cibber. Clinch in "Soho and its Associations" mentions a document +of 1748, still extant, in which are recorded the subscriptions made by +the inhabitants to replace the wooden palisades round the square by iron +railings. This is headed by £300 from the Duke of Portland, and among +the names are those of many titled and influential people, showing that +fashion had not then migrated westward. It was on the doorstep of a +house in the square that De Quincey sank dying of exhaustion and +starvation during his first novitiate of London life, and he was only +saved by his faithful companion Ann. + + + + +PART II + +PICCADILLY AND ST. JAMES'S SQUARE + + +Returning from Soho Square to Piccadilly Circus, we find ourselves in +the parish of St. James's, Piccadilly, which takes in all the now +fashionable shopping locality of Regent Street, and is bounded on the +east and south by St. Anne's, Soho, and St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, and +on the west by St. George's, Hanover Square. + +St. James's parish was separated from St. Martin's in 1685, but before +that epoch it had begun to have an existence of its own. Faithorne and +Newcourt's map of London, 1658, shows us open ground from a double row +of trees at Pall Mall to Piccadilly; Piccadilly is marked "from +Knightsbridge unto Piccadilly Hall." Opposite the palace, at the foot of +the present St. James's Street, are a few houses, including Berkshire +(now Bridgewater) House, and there are a few more at the eastern +extremity of Pall Mall. At the north-eastern corner of what we call the +Haymarket is the "Gaming House," and at the corners adjacent one or two +more buildings. This is St. James's in its earliest stage, before the +tide of fashion had moved so far westward. Henry Jermyn, Earl of St +Albans, in the reign of Charles II. obtained a building lease of +forty-five acres in St. James's Fields and projected the square, which +became the nucleus of the parish. + +_Piccadilly._--There is no authentic derivation for this curious name, +though many fancy suggestions have been made. The most probable of these +is that which connects it with the peccadilloes or ruffs worn by the +gallants of Charles II.'s time. Pennant traced the name to piccadillas, +turnovers or cakes which were sold at Piccadilla Hall, at the upper end +of the Haymarket. + +In Thomas Blount's "Glossographia" we read: "Pickadil ... the round hem +or the several divisions set together about the skirt of a garment or +other thing; also a kinde of stiff collar made in fashion of a Bande. +Hence perhaps that famous ordinary near St. James called Peckadilly took +denomination because it was then the utmost or skirt house of the +suburbs that way, others say it took its name from this, that one +Higgins a tailor who built it got most of his estate by Pickadilles, +which in the last age were much worn in England." There seems to be no +other foundation than Mr. Blount's lively imagination for "Higgins a +tailor." + +There is as much confusion about the first date at which the name was +used as there is about its derivation. Whether the hall took its name +from its situation or the district from the hall will probably ever +remain in doubt. The earliest occurrence of the name is in 1636, by +which time the hall was built. The gaming-house was at a later time also +known as Piccadilly, which has increased the confusion. Some writers +have identified the hall and the gaming-house, but there seems to be no +doubt that these were two separate buildings. The former was a private +house standing at the corners of Windmill and Coventry Streets. The +latter seems to have been built by Robert Baker, and sold by his widow +to Colonel Panton, who built Panton Street. It was otherwise known as +Shaver's Hall, and had a tennis-court and upper and lower bowling-green, +and was a very fashionable place of resort. The secondary name probably +emanated from the proprietor's former trade, but it is said to have +stuck to the place after Lord Dunbar lost £3,000 at one sitting, when +people said a Northern lord had been shaved here. + +Sir John Suckling was among the habitués of the place, and his sisters +will ever be remembered from Aubrey's pathetically humorous description +of their coming "to the Peccadillo bowling-green crying for feare he +should lose all [their] portions," as he was a great gamester. + +The name Piccadilly appears to have begun at the east end, near the +circus, and spread over the whole, a fact which is in favour of its +being derived from the house, not the name of the house from the +locality. + +Regent Street is Nash's great memorial. The conception is undoubtedly +fine, namely, a vast avenue to lead from Carlton House to a country +mansion to be built for George IV. in Regent's Park. Nash's great idea, +the combining of many separate buildings into one uniform façade, is +here seen at its best. At first a lengthy colonnade supported by columns +16 feet high ran on either side of the quadrant, but this darkened the +shops, so it was removed. The street is famous for its shops, which line +it from end to end; it has also the merit of being wider than most of +the London streets. + +The part of the parish lying to the east of Regent Street is quite +uninteresting except for Golden Square, which has been well described by +Hatton as "not exactly in anybody's way, to or from anywhere." The +square is mentioned in both "Humphrey Clinker" and "Nicholas Nickleby." +Here Henry St. John, Lord Bolingbroke, lived, 1704-1708, and Mrs. Cibber +in 1746. Angelica Kauffman lived in the centre house on the south side +for many years. It was in the vicinity of the square that the great +burial-ground for the plague-stricken dead was formed in the reign of +Charles II. It was chosen as being well away from the town. Pennant +says: "Golden Square, of dirty access, was built after the Revolution +or before 1700. It was built by that true hero Lord Craven, who stayed +in London during the whole time: and braved the fury of the pestilence +with the same coolness as he fought the battles of his beloved mistress, +Elizabeth, Queen of Bohemia." It was in Golden Square that De Quincey +took leave of Ann, whom he was never to see again. + +Piccadilly Circus was formed at the same time as Regent Street, though +it has been altered since. The Criterion Theatre and Restaurant are on +the south-east side. On this site formerly stood a well-known coaching +inn called the White Bear. One of Shepherd's charming sketches in the +Crace Collection illustrates the courtyard of the inn. Benjamin West, +afterwards P.R.A., put up here on the night of his first sojourn in +London. In the centre of the circus is a fountain in memory of the +seventh Earl of Shaftsbury. This was designed by Alfred Gilbert, R.A., +and consists of a very light metal figure of Mercury on a very solid +aluminium pedestal. + +In Piccadilly itself there is the somewhat gloomy-looking geological +museum, with entrance in Jermyn Street, open free to all comers. The +church of St James's, which comes shortly after, was built by Sir +Christopher Wren at the cost of Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans, and +consecrated at first as a chapel of ease to St. Martin's. The first +rector was Tenison, afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury. Wren considered +this one of his best works. He says: "In this church ... though very +broad and the nave arched, yet there are no walls of a second order, nor +lantherns, nor buttresses, but the whole roof rests upon the pillars, as +do also the galleries; I think it may be found beautiful and convenient, +and as such the cheapest of any form I could invent." + +The church is very wide in proportion to its length, and is said to seat +2,000 people easily. The reredos, a handsome piece of wood carving with +a central group of the pelican in her piety, typical of Christ giving +His life's blood for fainting souls, is the work of Grinling Gibbons. +The organ, in the western gallery, is supposed to have been the work of +Bernard Schmidt and was built for the Roman Catholic Oratory at +Whitehall, but was given to St. James's by Queen Mary, 1691. + +The font which stands in the vestibule at the west end is a most +excellent piece of work. It was carved from a block of white marble by +Grinling Gibbons, and is about 5 feet in height. The shaft is the tree +of life, round which is twined the serpent, while figures of Adam and +Eve stand on either side. It is well worth going into the church to see +this alone. The font originally possessed a cover, which was stolen in +1800, and is said to have been hung up in a spirit shop. In the church +are many monuments hanging on the walls, and on the pillars. One or two +of these at the east end are very cumbrous, and many are heavily +decorated, but none are worthy of note for any intrinsic beauty they +possess. Walcott notes as the most important those of the eighth Earl of +Huntingdon, 1704, and Count de la Roche Foucault, 1741. James Dodsley, +the well-known bookseller, 1797, was buried here, also Haysman, the +rival of Lely, and Lieutenant-General Sir Colin Campbell, K.C.B., 1847. + +Among the entries in the register we have the burials of the two +Vanderveldes, father and son. + +In the old graveyard there are stones in abundance, one or two on the +wall of the church, and many alternating with the flagstones over which +the feet of the living carelessly pass. + +In Sackville Street, just opposite to the church, Sheridan died. + +There are various other public buildings of more or less interest before +we come to Burlington House. No less than three mansions stood here in +the times of the later Stuarts. These belonged to Lord Chancellor +Clarendon and Lords Berkeley and Burlington, of which the latter name +has alone survived. + +The third Earl was an architect, and added several embellishments to his +mansion, including a stone frontage and a colonnade taken down in 1868. + +Handel was a guest at Burlington House for three years from 1715. After +the death of Lord Burlington in 1753 the title became extinct. Among the +memorable scenes witnessed by the house was a brilliant ball and fête, +given by the members of White's Club to the allied Sovereigns in 1814. + +Lord George Cavendish, who bought the house in 1815, considerably +altered the interior of the building, and built the Burlington Arcade in +1819. He was afterwards created Earl of Burlington. In 1854 Government +bought the house and garden. The University of London, now in Burlington +Gardens, temporarily occupied the building, and the societies occupying +Somerset House were offered quarters in Burlington House. In 1866 the +mansion was leased to the Royal Academy, and fundamental changes began. + +On the east side of Burlington House are the Geographical and Chemical +Societies, and on the west the Linnæan. In the courtyard, the Royal +Society is in the east wing, and the Royal Astronomical and the Society +of Antiquaries in the western. + +On the site of the Albany, now fashionable "chambers" for unmarried men, +were formerly three houses united into one by Lord Sunderland, the third +Earl, chiefly remembered for his magnificent library, which, when the +earldom of Sunderland was merged in the dukedom of Marlborough in 1733, +formed the nucleus of the Blenheim Library. The brother of the great Fox +held the house for a short time, and from him it passed to Lord +Melbourne, to whom its rebuilding was due. The architect was Sir W. +Chambers, and the ceilings decorated by Cipriani, Rebecca, and Wheatley. +It was from the Duke of York and Albany, uncle of George III., that the +name is derived. However, he did not live here long. + +St. James's Hall is well known for its popular concerts, which bring +first-rate music within the reach of all. In St. James's Hall the first +public dinner was held on June 2, 1858, and was given under the +presidency of Mr. R. Stephenson, M.P., to Sir F. P. Smith in recognition +of his services in introducing the screw propeller in our steam fleet. +Charles Dickens gave his second series of readings here in 1861. + +Passing down Duke Street, on the south side of Piccadilly, we come to +Jermyn Street. Sir Walter Scott stayed at an hotel here in 1832, on his +last journey home. Sir Isaac Newton was also a resident, and the poet +Gray lodged here. + +In King Street are Willis's Rooms, once Almack's, at one time the scene +of many fashionable assemblies. The rooms were opened in 1765, and a +ten-guinea subscription included a ball and supper once a week for three +months. Ladies were eligible for membership, and thus the place can +claim to have been one of the earliest ladies' clubs. Walpole writes in +1770 to George Montagu: "It is a club of both sexes to be erected at +Almack's on the model of that of the men at White's.... I am ashamed to +say I am of so young and fashionable society." The lady patronesses were +of the very highest rank. Timbs quotes from a letter of Gilly Williams: +"You may imagine by the sum, the company is chosen, though refined as it +is, it will scarcely put old Soho [Mrs. Cornelys] out of countenance." +The place steadily maintained its popularity. Captain Gronow in 1814 +says: "At the present time one can hardly conceive the importance which +was attached to getting admission to Almack's, the seventh heaven of the +fashionable world." The large ballroom was about 100 feet in length by +40 in width, and the largest number of persons present at one time was +1,700. It is often mentioned in the contemporary fiction dealing with +fashionable society; indeed, the whole of this neighbourhood was the +theatre for much of the gay life of the eighteenth century. + +St. James's Square is redolent of old memories. It was, as has been +stated, built by Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans. The square seems to +have been a fashionable locality from its very foundation, and, +curiously enough, has escaped the fate of so many of its compeers, and +still continues aristocratic. + +The workmanship of all the houses was solid and durable, and as soon as +they were built they were occupied. A catalogue of the names of the +early inhabitants would occupy much space: titled men, men eminent in +letters, science and political life, thronged the arena. The proximity +to the Court was a great attraction. The centre of the square was at +first left in a neglected condition, a remnant of the "Fields" on which +the houses had been built, and it served as a base for the displays of +fireworks which were given after the taking of Namur and the Peace of +Ryswick. + +In 1726 a Bill was passed in Parliament for the cleansing and +beautifying of the square, which had become a disgrace to the +neighbourhood, being a mere offal-heap. An ornamental basin was +constructed and the square paved, and a bronze equestrian statue of +William III., clad, according to the ludicrous custom of a bygone time, +in Roman habit, was erected in 1808, on a pedestal which had been built +for it in the centre of the basin years before. The water in this basin +is associated with at least one historic scene, for in the riots of 1780 +the malcontents threw the keys of Newgate into it, where they remained +undiscovered for many years. The basin was finally drained in 1840, +trees were planted, and the garden laid out. Among the historic +associations is one of a memorable night, when Dr. Johnson and Richard +Savage paced round and round the square for lack of a lodging, and +pledged each other, as they separated, to stand by their country. + +Norfolk House stands on the site of that of the Earl of St. Albans, +which he built for his own use in the south-east corner, he afterwards +removed to the mansion on the north side. In the Earl's first house the +Grand-Duke of Tuscany, afterwards Cosmo III., lodged, when on a visit to +London in 1669. Frederick, Prince of Wales, rented the old house before +Carlton House was prepared for his reception, and here George III. was +born. The old house still stands behind the newer building. + +Next to Norfolk House is London House, attached to the See of London +since about 1720. + +Next to this, at the south corner of Charles Street, is Derby House, +with handsome iron veranda and railings running round it. It was built +by Lord Bellasis, and one of the earliest occupants was Aubrey de Vere, +twentieth Earl of Oxford. Dasent says there is some reason for supposing +it to have been occupied by Sir Robert Walpole between the years +1732-35. It was bought by the Earl of Derby about the middle of the +present century. All the houses on this side of the square are of dull +brick, in formal style, with neither beauty nor originality. The next, +at the northern corner of Charles Street (now the West End branch of the +London and Westminster Bank), was known as Ossulston House until 1753, +and belonged for a long period to the Bennet family. It covered two +numbers, of which one was occupied by Lord Dartmouth, Lord Privy Seal +under Lord North's Administration, and is now the bank, and the other +was bought by the second Viscount Falmouth, and is now occupied by the +seventh Viscount of that name. + +No. 3 has passed through the hands of many titled and distinguished +owners, and is at present the property of the Duke of Leeds. It was +occupied by the Copyhold Inclosure and the Tithe Commission Office, now +the Board of Agriculture. + +No. 4, in the corner, belongs to Lord Cowper, and No. 5 to the Earl of +Strafford. + +The next two belong to Lord Avebury and Earl Egerton. + +No. 8 has had many vicissitudes. It was for a time occupied as the +French Embassy, later by Sir Cyril Wyche, President of the Royal +Society, also by Monmouth's widow, Josiah Wedgwood, and by many +intervening tenants of distinction. After the occupancy of Wedgwood, the +second Earl of Romney was here for eight years, until 1839, and then the +house became successively the home of the Erectheum Club, of the +Charity Commissioners, the Junior Oxford and Cambridge Club, Vine Club, +York Club, Junior Travellers' Club, and at present it is the Sports +Club. Ormond or Chandos House, which took up three numbers at the west +corner of York Street, has a history. It was built by Lord St. Albans in +place of his first house in the south-eastern corner of the square, and +passed into the possession of the Duke of Ormond, the only man who was +four times Lord Lieutenant of Ireland. Entertainments on a large scale +took place during this period. Perhaps the most interesting fact in the +history of the house is that a meeting of noblemen and gentlemen was +held here in 1688, at which an address of welcome to the Prince of +Orange was drawn up, in which he was besought to carry on the Government +until a Convention could meet. The Spanish Embassy was here in 1718. The +Duke of Chandos bought the mansion a year later, and in 1735 it was +pulled down, and the present three houses built on its site. These three +houses have been well tenanted, especially the centre one, No. 10, which +can boast the successive occupancy of Pitt, Lady Blessington, the great +Earl of Derby, and Mr. Gladstone. Here old link-extinguishers still +remain on the posts before the door. + +No. 9 is now the home of the Portland Club. + +No. 12 has also its string of names, but, for fear of degenerating into +a mere catalogue, we will only mention a few of the most important, Sir +Cyril Wyche was the first owner in 1676, and he was succeeded in 1678 by +Aubrey de Vere, twentieth Earl of Oxford. The Dukes of Roxburgh were in +possession from 1796 to 1812, and at the latter date the famous Roxburgh +Library was sold. The last private occupier was J. W. Spencer Churchill, +seventh Duke of Marlborough. After this the house was used successively +by the Salisbury Club, the Nimrod Club, and the Pall Mall Club, the last +of which remains here at present. + +No. 13, the corner house, has passed through many hands, and is now in +the occupation of the Windham Club. The London Library is well known to +all book-lovers. + +Wheatley states that Philip Francis lived at No. 14 until his death in +1818, but the houses have been renumbered since then, and his 14 is now +16. + +No. 15 is known as Lichfield House from its former owner. It was built +by Stuart (known as "Athenian Stuart") in 1763-65. In 1855 it was the +home of the Junior United Service Club. In 1856 it was bought by the +Clerical, Medical, and General Life Assurance Society. The chief event +in its history took place on June 28, 1815, when the Prince Regent +displayed the trophies and banners just brought from Waterloo to the +crowd below. + +No. 16, which is now amalgamated with 17, is occupied by the East India +United Service Club. + +Nos. 17 and 18 formed old Halifax House. Many political intrigues and +meetings must have taken place here, for Lord Halifax gained the name of +always being on the winning side. In 1725 Halifax House was demolished +and the present buildings erected. In 1820 Queen Caroline stayed in No. +17 during her trial. The house was afterwards used by the Colonial Club. + +No. 18 boasts such names among its tenants as the fourth Earl of +Chesterfield, the first Lord Thurlow, and Viscount Castlereagh, +afterwards second Marquis of Londonderry. It was used by the Oxford and +Cambridge Club and the Army and Navy Club. + +At the south-east corner of King Street, in the square, was Cleveland +House, which has been demolished and replaced by "mansions." + +Apsley and Winchester Houses follow. The former was rebuilt by Robert +Adam in 1772-74, and follows the well-known lines of his work, with +fluted pilasters rising from above the basement to an entablature. The +entrance has the fan-shaped glass above the door so characteristic of +Adam's work. + +Winchester House was from 1826 to 1875 occupied by the Bishops of that +see, and was later a branch of the War Office, several departments of +which are still here. The next magnificent building, which really faces +George Street, but was formerly considered to be in the square, is one +of the palatial clubs evolved by the demands of modern luxury. The house +which formerly stood here was used by the Parthenon Club from 1837-41, +and was subsequently pulled down to make way for the present clubhouse, +opened 1851, and built from designs by Parnell and Smith. The exterior +is a combination of Sansovino's Palazzo Cornaro and the Library of St. +Mark at Venice. The lower part follows Sansovino's beautiful work very +closely. On the site of this stood formerly a house belonging to Nell +Gwynne, of which Pennant writes: "The back-room of the ground-floor was +(within memory) entirely of looking-glass, as was said to have been the +ceiling; over the chimney was her picture, and that of her sister in a +third room." He describes this house as the "first good one on the left +hand of St. James's Square entered from Pall Mall." + +The south side of the square has never been held in such esteem as the +remaining three-fourths. But the Junior Carlton Club, facing Pall Mall, +has removed this stigma; it is a fine specimen of architecture. +Demolition, previous to reconstruction, has already begun next to it. +After this as far as John Street is a row of comparatively insignificant +narrow houses of various heights and styles. Some of the houses on the +north side of Pall Mall were built before the completion of the square, +so that there was no room for large mansions here. At the corner of John +Street and Pall Mall is what is called "Ye Olde Bull Tavern," a square +box-like stuccoed house. This is probably contemporary with the first +building of Pall Mall, and may have been the substitute of the +seventeenth century wits and men of letters for the magnificent clubs of +the present day. + +Charles Street was built about 1671, and was, of course, named after the +King. Burke and Canning are numbered among the former residents. + +York Street was named in compliment to the Duke of York, afterwards +James II. It may be noted that the four streets surrounding the square +form the names King Charles and Duke of York. + +Bury Street was named after a Mr. Berry, who was landlord of many of the +houses; the spelling is a corruption. Sir Richard Steele lodged here, +also Thomas Moore and Crabbe, the poet, during one of his later visits +to London, when contact with cultured men had rubbed off his early +boorishness. + +"St. James's Street is much more remarkable for the natural advantages +and beauty of the ground, than from any addition it has received from +art," so says Ralph ("Critical Review of Public Buildings," 1783 +edition). In the very earliest maps of the parish a road is marked on +this site, leading northward from the palace. The street was built about +1670, and was first known as Long Street. In the time of the Stuarts it +shared the aristocratic tendency of the square, and had a list of noble +occupiers. It was levelled and made uniform in 1764, having previously +descended from Piccadilly by steps. + +St. James's Street has been noted from the very beginning for its clubs, +gaming-houses, and convivial gatherings. Its proximity to the Court +attracted all the fops and beaux, and it was the resort of fashionable +and gay young idlers. Many anecdotes are related of the street, but +chiefly in connection with the clubs, for which it is still famous. +White's (37 and 38) is one of the oldest; it was established about 1698, +and was at first a chocolate-house. It stood near the low end of the +street, on the west side. It was burnt down in 1733, and the present +building, designed by Wyatt, was erected in 1755, and altered nearly a +century later by Lockyer. The gaming-room of the old house forms the +scene of the sixth plate of Hogarth's "Rake's Progress," where the +gamblers are represented intent on their cards, though the flames are +bursting out. It was after the fire that the house became a private +club, and it was long noted as a gambling-house for high stakes and +reckless betting. It is of White's that the story is told that a man +dropped down before the door insensible, and was taken inside. The +members immediately began to bet whether he were dead or not, and when +the physician came to bleed him, those on the affirmative side +protested. + +"Brooke's" is now No. 60, on the opposite side of the street from +White's, at the northern corner of Park Place, and was as notorious a +gaming-house as White's. It was of later origin, dating from 1764, and +was originally in Pall Mall. It began life under the name of Almack's. +The play was prodigiously high. Timbs says that it was for rouleaux of +£50 each, and there was generally £10,000 in specie on the table. + +"Boodle's," is another celebrated club, which was also named the "Savoir +Vivre." This is now No. 28. + +The Cocoa-tree Club recalls by its name an old chocolate house of Queen +Anne's time, a favourite resort of the Tories, often mentioned by +Addison. Lord Byron was one of the members. The old house was situated +nearer to the south end of the street than the present club. + +"Arthurs," south of St. James's Place, was founded by the proprietor of +White's in 1765. The present building was erected in 1825 by Hopper. The +Conservative Club house (74) was built in 1845 from designs by Smirke +and Basevi. The building is large, with slightly projecting wings, and a +stone balcony extending uninterruptedly across the frontage. + +Next door is the "Thatched House" Club, which originated in the Thatched +House Tavern, in which the dilettanti and literary societies used to +meet. Wheatley describes a row of low-built shops standing before the +tavern, one of which was that of the hairdresser Rowland, who made a +fortune by his macassar oil. + +St. James's Coffee-house, a celebrated Whig rendezvous from the reign of +Queen Anne until the beginning of the nineteenth century, was at this +end of the street. In this street there are also many other clubs of +later origin. It was at the foot of St. James's Street that the Duke of +Ormond was attacked in his coach in 1670, by the notorious Colonel +Blood. The Duke had been responsible for the execution of some of +Blood's associates in Ireland, and Blood determined to take him to +Tyburn and hang him in revenge. He actually succeeded in dragging him +from his coach and mounting him on horseback behind one of his men. When +they had proceeded as far as Devonshire House, the Duke succeeded in +unhorsing his companion, and in the delay that followed his servants +made their appearance and rescued him. For this outrage Blood was never +punished. Sir Christopher Wren died in St. James's Street in 1723, and +Gibbon, the historian, in 1794. The names of Waller, the poet, Wolfe, C. +Fox, and Lord Byron, are among the residents. It was here that the last +named was lodging when his "Childe Harold" created such an extraordinary +sensation. Alexander Pope was also a resident. + +McLean, the famous highwayman, lodged opposite "White's." He was hung in +1750, and the first Sunday after he was condemned 3,000 people went to +see him in gaol. St. James's Street at present is sufficiently +noticeable because of its width, in which the old palace gateway at the +foot is framed. + +Park Place was built in 1683. William Pitt came to live here in 1801. +St. James's Place is a medley of old and modern buildings, some having +been built in the last decade. Wheatley speaks of it because of its +tortuous course, as "one of the oddest built streets in London." Wilkes +and Addison, and Mrs. Delaney, at whose house Miss Burney stayed, have +been among the residents. Samuel Rogers lived for fifty years at No. 22, +which looked out over the park. + +Cleveland Square is an open space before the Duke of Bridgewater's +House. The house was restored, as an inscription over the doorway tells +us, or in other words rebuilt, in 1849. This house has a history. It was +originally Berkshire House, and belonged to the Howards, Earls of +Berkshire. Charles II. bought it in 1670, and gave it to that "beautiful +fury," Barbara, Duchess of Cleveland. She pulled down the house and sold +part of the site before rebuilding. In 1730 the first Duke of +Bridgewater bought it, and it was alternately known by the names of +Cleveland and Bridgewater. The third Duke died unmarried in 1803, when +the title became extinct. He left the house and the magnificent +collection of pictures to his nephew, the Marquis of Stafford, +afterwards Duke of Sutherland, with reversion to the Marquis's second +son. This son was created Earl of Ellesmere in 1846. He rebuilt the +house, still retaining the old name. The famous collection of pictures +within, includes works of Raphael, Titian, Vandervelde, Turner, +Rembrandt, Cuyp, and others, and is one of the finest private +collections in England. + +The house opposite was the home of Grenville, First Lord of the +Admiralty in 1806, and here he collected the magnificent library which +is now at the British Museum. Admiral Rodney lived in Cleveland Row in +1772. + +On Pall Mall the game of the same name was originally played. On both +sides of the open space were rows of elm-trees. But being such an +obvious route from the palace to Charing Cross it was soon used as a +thoroughfare, and after the warrant for "building of the new street of +St. James" Charles II. laid out the new mall in the park. The street, +when built, was at first called Catherine, in honour of the Queen, but +the older name soon returned into favour. + +It early became fashionable. Nell Gwynne was one of the first residents. +She had a house numbered 79, near the War Office, afterwards, by the +irony of fate, occupied by the Society for the Propagation of the +Gospel, and since rebuilt. Evelyn records an occasion on which he +attended King Charles II. in the park, when he heard "a familiar +discourse between the King and Mrs. Nellie as they call an impudent +comedian, she looking out of her garden on a terrace at the top of the +wall, and the King standing on the green walk under it." + +During Wyatt's insurrection in 1554, the mob passed along this road, and +the Earl of Pembroke planted artillery on the high ground of Hay Hill +and Piccadilly, when a piece of the Queen's ordnance, we are told, "slew +three of Wyatt's followers, in a rank, and after carrying off their +heads passed through this wall into the park" (Jesse). In 1682 Thynne +was murdered at the instigation of Count Konigsmarck in what is now Pall +Mall East, because he had married the heiress of the Percys, whom the +Count wished to marry himself. The principal was acquitted, but his +three accomplices or tools, who had actually committed the murder, were +executed, according to the poetic justice of the time, at the scene of +their offence, in 1682. + +The Star and Garter Hotel, nearly opposite the War Office, was a +fashionable tavern in the time of Queen Anne. Here took place the famous +duel between the fifth Lord Byron and Mr. Chaworth in 1765. They fought +in the house by the light of only a single candle. Byron killed his +opponent, and was found guilty of manslaughter by his peers. However, he +claimed benefit of a statute of Edward VI., and was discharged. The +original dispute was merely as to which gentleman had the larger amount +of game on his estate. + +Among other famous taverns in this street are mentioned the King's Arms, +under the Opera Colonnade in Pall Mall East. Also the Rumpsteak Club, +which consisted of five Dukes, one Marquis, fifteen Earls, three +Viscounts, and three Barons, all in opposition to Sir Robert Walpole. +The King's Head, the George, the Smyrna Coffee-house, Giles' +Coffee-house, Hercules Pillars, and the Tree, were among the ancient +places of resort in this street--a foreshadowing of the palatial +mansions of Clubland. + +The north side of the street is the poorer of the two. Beginning at the +western end on the south side, we have the New Oxford and Cambridge +Club, the Guards, and the Oxford and Cambridge University Clubs. The +first of these has a very massive entrance; the house has only a north +aspect, the windows at the back being glazed with ground-glass so as not +to overlook Marlborough House. A little further on is an old red-brick +house with a portico on which is a female figure in bas-relief with +palette and brushes. This is in great contrast to its neighbours; it is +what remains (centre and west wing) of Schomberg House, built about the +middle of the seventeenth century. The first Schomberg came over in the +train of William of Orange; he was Count in his own country, bore +several French titles, and was created an English Duke. He was killed at +the Battle of the Boyne. The house was later occupied by Cumberland of +Culloden, George III.'s uncle, and subsequently by Astley the painter. +Astley divided it into three parts, reserving the centre for his own +use. Among the tenants who succeeded him we find the names of Cosway, +Paine the bookseller, and Nathaniel Hone. In the western wing +Gainsborough lived, so the building has every right to its +distinguishing panel of palette and brushes. During Gainsborough's +occupancy everyone of wealth, beauty or fashion in the society of the +day resorted here to have their features immortalized. This house is now +part of the War Office, which, in a previous stage of its career, was +the Ordnance Office. + +The entrance to the War Office stands back behind a courtyard in which +is a statue of Lord Herbert of Lea. The War Office was originally at the +Horse Guards, and since its removal has gradually extended its premises +by absorbing one house after another. We now come to a long series of +clubs. The Carlton is rich in ornament, with polished granite columns +decorating a front of Caen stone. The design was by Sydney Smirke, and +is said to be founded on that of a Venetian palace. It contrasts with +its neighbour, the Reform, which presents a breadth of plain surface +broken only by little pediments over the windows. This was the work of +Sir Charles Barry, and was copied from the Farnese Palace at Venice, of +which the upper storey was the work of Michael Angelo. It is a dull, +heavy-looking piece of work. On part of its site stood the house of +Angerstein, a Russian merchant, whose collection of pictures formed the +nucleus of our National Gallery. + +The Travellers', next door, also the work of Barry, is in an Italian +style. One of the rules of this club is that no person shall be eligible +for membership who shall not have travelled out of the British Isles at +least 500 miles in a direct line from London. + +The Athenæum is one of the most princely of clubs. It was established in +1823, and the present house was built about half a dozen years later. +Decimus Burton was the architect, and his work is Grecian, with a frieze +copied from the famous procession in the Parthenon. The recently-added +storey has been the subject of much criticism. Among those present at +the preliminary meeting we find the names of Sir Humphrey Davy, Sir +Francis Chantrey, Sir Thomas Lawrence, the Earl of Aberdeen, Sir Walter +Scott, Thomas Moore and Faraday. Theodore Hook was one of the most +popular members. + +At the corner of Pall Mall East and Waterloo Place is the United Service +Club built by Nash. It was instituted after the Battle of Waterloo, and +was at first at the corner of Charles Street, on the site of the Junior +Club of the same name. + +The Guards' Monument, in Waterloo Place, was put up in 1859 in memory of +the Crimea. Three figures of guardsmen--Grenadier, Coldstream, and +Fusilier--in full marching uniform, stand round a granite pedestal, on +which are inscribed the names of the famous Crimean battles; a pile of +Russian guns actually brought from Sebastopol completes the group. + +The Church of St. Philip, on the west side of Lower Regent Street, is a +quaint building with Doric portico and curious little cupola, the latter +a copy of the Lanthorn of Demosthenes at Athens. It was built in 1820 by +Repton, from designs by Sir W. Chambers, and has the merit of being +almost continually open for prayer and meditation. + +On the east side the most important building is the Junior United +Service Club, erected in 1852 by Nelson and James. + +Market Street and St. James's Market recall the market held "west of the +Haymarket, mid-way between Charles and Jermyn Street." This originated +in a fair held in St. James's Fields, before the square was built, and +from which Mayfair partly derives its name. This fair was suppressed on +account of disorder in 1651, but revived again, and was not finally +stopped until the end of Charles II.'s reign. After having been +suppressed in the Fields in 1664, it was held in the market. Strype +describes this market as "a large place, with a commodious market-house +in the midst filled with butchers' shambles; besides the stalls in the +market-place for country butchers, higglers and the like, being a market +now grown to great account, and much resorted unto as being served with +good provisions." In a house at the corner of Market Street lived Hannah +Lightfoot, said to have been married to King George III. when Prince of +Wales. The market belonged to Lord St. Albans, whose name is preserved +in St. Albans Place, which ends in a foot-passage leading into Charles +Street. + +The Haymarket derives its name from a market for hay and straw which was +held here until 1830, and was then transferred to Cumberland Market, +Regent's Park, where it still continues. The market naturally involved +many taverns in its neighbourhood, and the street was lined with them. +The names of some were Black Horse, White Horse, Nag's Head, Cock, +Phoenix, Unicorn, and Blue Posts. The theatre and the old opera-house +were the most important buildings in the Haymarket. The latter was on +the site of Her Majesty's Theatre and the Carlton Hotel. It was called +at different times the Queen's Theatre, the King's Theatre, and Her +Majesty's Theatre, so the new name is but a revival of the old. The +first theatre on this site was begun in 1703 as a theatre for +Betterton's famous company, which had been performing in Lincoln's Inn +Fields. Operas were subsequently performed here; in fact, nearly all +Handel's operas were written for this theatre. Masquerades were held in +the opera-house in 1749 and 1766, and were attended by all the rank and +fashion of the day, and even by royalty in disguise. In 1789 the theatre +was burnt down. It was rebuilt and completed only three years after the +catastrophe. This house saw some fine performances of the Italian Opera +Company, and in it the names of Grisi, Rubini, Tamburini, Lablache, +Mario, and Jenny Lind, first became known to the public. In 1867 it also +was burnt down. For about a quarter of a century a third theatre stood +here, but had no success, and was pulled down. The present theatre is +of great magnificence, and will seat between 1,600 and 1,700 persons. +The Haymarket Theatre opposite is dwarfed by the proximity of its +gorgeous neighbour. The names of Fielding, Cibber, Macklin, and Foote +are connected with various attempts to make the earliest venture on this +site pay. Mozart performed here in 1765, when only eight years old. In +1820 the present building was erected by Nash, adjacent to the old +theatre. The Haymarket in the last century was a great place for shows +and entertainments. + +In James's Street was a tennis-court much patronized by Charles II. and +the Duke of York. + +Whitcomb Street was formerly called Hedge Lane, an appropriate name when +it stood in a rural district; now it is a narrow, dirty thoroughfare, +bordered by poor dwellings and small shops. + + + + +PART III + +THE STRAND + + +We have now made a circuit, noting all that is interesting by the way, +and have returned to busy Charing Cross, from which runs the great +thoroughfare, the Strand, which gives the district its name. + +This important street might be considered either as a street of +palaces--and in this respect not to be surpassed by any street in +medieval Europe, not even Venice--or a street full of associations, +connected chiefly with retail trade, taverns, shops, sedan-chairs, and +hackney coaches. + +The Strand, as the name implies, was the shore by the river. It has +passed through two distinct phases. First, when it was an open highway, +with a few scattered houses here and there, crossed by small bridges +over the rivulets which flowed down to the Thames. One of these was the +Strand Bridge, between the present Surrey Street and Somerset House; +another, Ivy Bridge, between Salisbury Street and Adam Street. In 1656 +there were more than 800 watercourses crossing it between Palace Yard +and the Old Exchange! It was not paved until Henry VIII.'s reign, and we +read of the road being interrupted with thickets and bushes. + +Then came a period of great grandeur, when the Strand was lined with +palatial mansions, which had gardens stretching down to the river, when +the town-houses of the Prince-Bishops, of the highest nobility, and even +of royalty, rose up in grandeur. The names of the streets, Salisbury and +Buckingham, York and Durham, Norfolk and Exeter, are no mere fancy, but +recall a vision of bygone splendour which might well cause the Strand to +be named a street of palaces. + +The palaces, which occupied at one time the whole of the south side of +the street, were at first the town-houses of the Bishops. They were +built along the river because, in their sacred character, they were safe +from violence (except in one or two cases), and therefore did not need +the protection of the wall, while it was perhaps felt that even if the +worst happened, as it did happen in Jack Straw's rebellion, the river +offered a liberally safe way of escape. In the thirteenth century Henry +III. gave Peter of Savoy "all those houses in the Thames on the way +called the Strand." + +Gay speaks of the change that had fallen upon the Strand in his time: + + "Through the long Strand together let us stray; + With thee conversing I forget the way. + Behold that narrow street which steep descends, + Whose building to the shining shore extends; + Here Arundel's fam'd structure rear'd its frame, + The street alone retains an empty name: + Where Titian's glowing paint the canvas warm'd, + And Raphael's fair design with judgment charm'd, + Now hangs the bellman's song, and pasted here + The colour'd prints of Overton appear; + Where statues breath'd the work of Phidias' hands, + A wooden pump or lonely watch-house stands; + There Essex's stately pile adorn'd the shore, + There Cecil's, Bedford's, Villiers's--now no more." + +Disraeli, in "Tancred," says: "The Strand is, perhaps, the finest street +in Europe." Charles Lamb said: "I often shed tears in the motley Strand +for fulness of joy at so much life." + +The Strand has now become a street of shops instead of a street of +palaces; it has been, but is no more, a fashionable resort; it has been +a place for the lodgings of visitors, and still has many small hotels +and boarding-houses in its riverside lanes; its personal associations +are many, but not so important as those in the City or Westminster; it +is a street of great interest, but its architectural glories have almost +all vanished. + +Beginning at the west end, we note on the north side the Golden Cross +Hotel, rebuilt. This is the successor of a famous old coaching inn, +which stood further west. On the south side is Craven Street, formerly +Spur Alley, where once Benjamin Franklin lived at No. 7. The site of +Hungerford Market is now covered by the Charing Cross railway-station. +In Charing Cross station-yard is a modern reproduction of the original +Queen Eleanor's Cross. The market was built in 1680, rebuilt in 1831, +and stretched to the river. The name will always be connected with that +of Charles Dickens, and with "David Copperfield." Beside the market was +the suspension bridge constructed by Brunel, opened in 1845, and removed +to make room for the railway-bridge. + +On the site of Hungerford Market there stood the "Inn" or House of the +Bishop of Norwich. In 1536 Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, exchanged +his house in Southwark for this place; twenty years later it fell into +the hands of Heath, Archbishop of York, who called it York House, and +in the reign of James I. it became the property of the Crown. Bacon was +born in this house. In 1624 the Duke of Buckingham obtained the house; +he pulled it down, and began to build a large mansion to take its place. +The watergate is the only part of his structure still existing. Cromwell +gave the house to Fairfax, whose daughter married the second Duke of +Buckingham, of the Villiers family. In 1655 Evelyn describes the house +as "much ruined through neglect." In 1672 the house and gardens were +sold to four persons of Westminster, who laid out the site in streets, +viz., Villiers Street, Duke Street, Buckingham Street, and Of Alley, +forming in conjunction the words Villiers, Duke of Buckingham. York +House was pulled down soon after, and York Buildings erected on the +site. Peter the Great had lodgings in York Buildings during his visit to +England, and Pepys occupied a house on the west side, near the river, +for some time. The gardens of the Victoria Embankment now fill up the +space over which the river formerly flowed, and the watergate is merely +a meaningless ornament 100 yards or more from the water. + +At the corner of Agar and King William Streets, on the north, is the +Charing Cross Hospital, founded 1818, and built on the present site in +1831, the architect being Decimus Burton. It is a dreary stuccoed +building, with a rounded end, and contains nothing that specially marks +it out from other general hospitals. + +In Chandos Street the highwayman Claude Duval was arrested, after which +he was executed at Tyburn, 1669. There was an ancient hostelry called +the Black Prince in Chandos Street, which is mentioned by Dickens. This +was demolished to make way for the Medical College. Opposite was the +blacking shop where Dickens spent a miserable part of his childhood. + +The next group of streets on the south side, namely, John, Robert, +James, and William Streets, was built by four brothers of the name of +Adam, who gave their Christian names to their handiwork, and from whom +this particular district was called the "Adelphi," from the Greek word +signifying brothers. The site was occupied by Durham House, a palace +built by Anthony de Beck, Bishop of Durham in Edward I.'s reign. Bishop +Tunstall in 1535 exchanged it with Henry VIII. for Cold Harbour and +other houses in the City, and for a time it was frequented by royalty. +The King gave a great tournament here on his marriage with Anne of +Cleves. Proclamations of the jousts were made in France, Spain, +Scotland, and Flanders. The young King, Edward VI., granted the house to +his sister Elizabeth for life. The unfortunate Lady Jane Grey was +married within the walls of Durham House to the son of Northumberland. +When Queen Mary ascended the throne, she gave the palace back to Bishop +Tunstall, but Elizabeth regarded it as one of the royal palaces, and +after her accession bestowed it on Sir Walter Raleigh. In Aubrey's +"Letters" Raleigh's occupation of the house is mentioned in a +descriptive passage: "Durham House was a noble palace.... I well +remember his (Raleigh's) study, which was on a little turret that looked +into and over the Thames, and had the prospect which is, perhaps, as +pleasant as any in the world." When Raleigh was imprisoned the See of +Durham again obtained the house. The stables, facing the Strand, were +then in a very ruinous condition, and were pulled down. On their site +was built an exchange, called the New Exchange, which obtained some +popularity. This was erected partly on the pattern of the Royal +Exchange, and was opened by King James I. This, Strype tells us, "was +for milliners, sempstresses, and other trades that furnish dresses." + +The place was opened in 1609 by James I. and the Queen; it was called +Britain's Burse. It became fashionable after the Restoration, and, after +a period of popularity lasting a little more than fifty years, it was +taken down. Here Anne Clarges, daughter of John Clarges, a farrier of +the Savoy, sold gloves, washballs, and powder. She married General +Monk, and died Duchess of Albemarle. Here Henry Herringman, publisher, +had his shop. The Restoration literature abounds in references to the +New Exchange. The shops were served by girls who spent a great part of +their time in flirting with the fops. The Duchess of Tyrconnell, sister +of Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough, is said to have kept a shop here for +her own maintenance, wearing a white mask which she never removed. The +lower walk was a notorious place for assignations. It was taken down in +1737. In 1768 the brothers Adam obtained the lease of the ground and +began to build. Robert Adam had been much struck in his foreign travels +with the palace of Diocletian on the Bay of Spalatro. The terrace facing +the sea had impressed his imagination, and the Adelphi Terrace is the +result of his adaptation of the idea. It was necessary to gain a solid +foundation on the slippery river-bank, therefore the brothers designed +the wonderful system of arches on which all the Adelphi precinct rests. +On building their terrace they had to encroach on the river, and form an +embankment, which was much resented by the Londoners. The centre house +in the terrace was taken by Garrick, who remained there until his death, +about seven years later. The arches were at first left open, but formed +a refuge for the vicious and destitute, who made a regular city of the +underground passages. They were subsequently filled in, and now are +brewers' vaults, with only the high-vaulted roadway left open to form a +passage for the drays and vans. Beneath the terrace is a curious little +strip of land cut off from the Embankment garden by high wooden pales. +This is practically useless, as it can only be reached through the +arches. On it is an old dilapidated shed, once a much-frequented tavern, +called the Fox under the Hill, a curious feature on land which is of so +much value. + +There are several interesting houses in the Adelphi precinct. In the +centre of the terrace is the Savage Club, and there are many other +societies and institutions on the terrace. In John Street is the +building expressly designed for the Society of Arts. + +The work of the Society is brought before the notice of the public by +circular tablets, which are affixed to houses in London which have +formerly been the homes of men eminent in literature, science, or art. +Close at hand is the bank of Messrs. Coutts, on the site of the New +Exchange. This important bank deserves some special notice. It was +established by a goldsmith of the name of Middleton, who kept a shop +near St. Martin's Church about 1692. The name of Coutts first appears in +1755. Many interesting stories are told in connection with this famous +house. The Mr. Coutts who was head of the firm at the beginning of the +present century was twice married. By his first wife he had three +daughters, who married respectively the third Earl of Guilford, the +first Marquess of Bute, and Sir Francis Burdett. His second wife was +Miss Mellon, an actress, to whom he left the whole of his vast fortune. +She afterwards married the Duke of St. Albans, but left the whole of her +great wealth to Miss Angela Burdett, grand-daughter of Mr. Coutts. This +lady assumed the additional name of Coutts, and was raised to the +peerage on account of her munificent charities. + +The Adelphi Theatre stands on the north side of the Strand, but is +identified by name with this district; it was originally called the Sans +Pareil. Charles Mathews gave many of his celebrated "at homes" here. A +few doors west is the Vaudeville. + +Ivy Bridge Lane, now closed, runs to the west of Salisbury Street. It is +a narrow, dirty passage, and was named from a bridge in the Strand which +crossed one of the numerous rivulets running down to the Thames. Pennant +mentions a house of the Earl of Rutland's near this bridge. The Cecil +Hotel is built over Salisbury and Cecil Streets, names that recall a +mansion of Sir Robert Cecil, second son of Lord Burleigh, called +Salisbury House. + +Adjacent to this stood Worcester House. It was originally the town-house +of the Bishops of Carlisle; at the Reformation it was presented to the +Earl of Bedford, and known as Bedford House, until the owner built +another house on the north side of the Strand. It then became the +property of the Marquis of Worcester, and was known as Worcester House. +Lord Clarendon lived here after the Restoration. At Worcester House his +daughter Anne was married to the Duke of York. Lord Clarendon left the +house, and went to live in St. James's Street. Worcester House was then +used for great occasions. + +Here the Duke of Ormond (1669) was installed Chancellor of the +University of Oxford, and in 1674 the Duke of Monmouth Chancellor of the +University of Cambridge. The Worcester House Conference was also held in +the hall of this place. Beaufort Buildings occupy a part of the site. +The house itself was destroyed by the Duke of Beaufort. + +Exeter Street and Hall (north) preserve the name of Exeter House, built +by Lord Burleigh. It was at first Cecil House, but on the succession of +his eldest son, the Earl of Exeter, elder brother of Sir Robert Cecil, +it became Exeter House. Afterwards the house was used by Doctors of +Ecclesiastical Law, etc., and later was converted into an exchange, at +first designed for the sale of fancy goods, but later famous for an +exhibition of wild beasts. The body of Gay the poet rested in this +Exchange before being interred in Westminster Abbey. + +Exeter Hall was erected in 1830 for the purpose of religious meetings. +Exeter Street will always be associated with the name of Dr. Johnson, +who took lodgings here when he came up to London first, and dined at a +neighbouring cookshop for eightpence. + +The Lyceum Theatre was designed by S. Beazley, and opened in 1834. It +will be always associated with the names of Sir Henry Irving and Ellen +Terry. It stands on the site of the English Opera-House, burnt down in +1830, which during many years was the home of a quaint convivial +gathering, called the Beefsteak Society, founded by Rich and Lambert in +1735. The members dined together off beefsteaks at five o'clock on +Saturdays from November until the end of June. The gridiron was their +emblem. + +Just before arriving at Wellington Street there is a glimpse of green +trees, and of a brilliant bed of flowers, down a little narrow street on +the south side of the Strand. Many people must have noticed these +things, few have had the curiosity to explore further; yet it is well +worth while to get down from omnibus or cab and venture into this little +backwater of the Savoy. Between eleven and one, and two and four +o'clock every day the garden gate is open, and the verger is in the +chapel, ready to answer questions. The little graveyard garden, with its +waving trees, is a veritable oasis in the desert of brick and mortar, +and the quaint chapel with its turret forms a suitable background. The +precincts of the Savoy appertain to the Duchy of Lancaster, and as such +are royal property; the reigning Sovereign keeps up the place, and pays +for choir and service. In former days many irregular marriages were +performed here, until the place gained a reputation second only to the +Fleet Prison. Weddings are still held here, though the procedure is now +strictly legal. The origin of the church was in the reign of Henry VII., +but the fire which raged in 1864, and burnt out the interior, destroyed +many old relics, and the present interior is Early Victorian. There is a +curious old oil-painting opposite the door, which looks as if it had +been part of a triptych, and in the chancel two quaint little stone +figures, which survived the fire. The latest stained-glass window was +filled in quite recently in memory of D'Oyley Carte. It was unveiled by +Sir Henry Irving in the spring of 1902. Several persons of importance +have been buried here, but none whose names are sufficiently well known +to merit quotation. Many Bishops have been consecrated in the chapel, +and it was here that the memorable Conference on the Book of Common +Prayer took place in Charles II.'s reign. The chapel was made parochial +after the greedy Somerset had destroyed the first Church of St. Mary le +Strand, in order to use its materials for his own mansion. It had before +that time been dedicated to St. John the Baptist, but was henceforth +known as St. Mary le Savoy. + +The history of the precinct of Savoy is difficult to treat in a volume +like the present, because it requires a book to itself. It is not the +paucity of material, but the quantity, that is embarrassing. The great +palace which stood here first was built by Simon de Montfort, Earl of +Leicester, one of the Barons to whom our present Constitution is due. By +one of the frequent vicissitudes of the times, when no man's land or +property was safe, this palace came into the hands of King Henry III., +who took the opportunity of a visit from his wife's uncle, Peter of +Savoy (afterwards Earl of Savoy and Richmond), to present it to him. +Peter either gave it to or exchanged it with a religious fraternity, +from whom it was rebought by the Queen, Eleanor, who gave it to her son +Edmund, Earl of Lancaster. + +After the Battle of Poitiers, King John of France was brought here a +prisoner, and, oddly enough, though he was soon set at liberty, his +death occurred here many years later when he had returned to make amends +for the escape of one of his sons held hostage by the English until the +payment of his ransom. + +John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, had made the palace into a most +magnificent building, and here he lived in great state. Chaucer, +Froissart and Wycliff are mentioned as having been his frequent guests. +In the sack of the town by Wat Tyler this house particularly attracted +the attention of the unruly mob, who did their utmost to wreck it, and +were assisted by the explosion of several barrels of gunpowder, which, +ignorant of their contents, they had thrown upon the flames. The costly +plate and rich furniture were flung into the Thames by the rioters. +After this it lay in ruins until King Henry VII., himself a descendant +of John of Gaunt, founded here a hospital for 100 poor people, but he +hardly lived to see his project carried out. Amid the general spoliation +of the religious houses that followed, Henry VIII. seems to have +respected his father's wish and left the hospital alone. It is described +as a goodly building in the form of a cross. However, it was suppressed +under Edward VI., and restored by Mary, whose maids of honour "did with +exemplary piety furnish it with all necessaries." Elizabeth laid hands +on it, and later it seems to have been reserved for such nobles as had +the favour of the Crown and the right of free quarters, something in +the same way as Hampton Court is reserved at present. There is an +illustration by Hollar showing the palace-hospital as it was in 1650. It +is right on the water's edge, presenting a very solid line of wall to +the river, pierced by two rows of small windows. In the upper stories +the parapet is battlemented, and a square tower built over arches +projects from the frontage. We have also a plan of about a hundred years +later (1754), showing the congeries of buildings that then covered the +precincts. The part near the river is marked "Dwellings"; the ancient +hospital has become "barracks." There is a military prison at the west +side, and churches of the German Calvinist, German Lutheran and French +persuasions are all within the walls. + +The present church in this plan is at the north-west end, and all the +above-mentioned buildings are to the south and east of it, covering +ground now devoted to offices and mansions. A good deal of the buildings +was standing even at the beginning of the nineteenth century, when it +was demolished to make way for the approaches to Waterloo Bridge. + +At the east corner of what is now Wellington Street stood Wimbledon +House, built by Sir Edward Cecil, son to the first Earl of Exeter. It +was burned down in 1628. + +The great palace called Somerset House was at first built by the +Protector Somerset, brother of Jane Seymour. He cleared away to make +room for it the palace of the Bishops of Worcester and Chester, the +Strand Inn belonging to the Temple, and many other buildings. The +cloister on the north side of St. Paul's containing the "Dance of Death" +was demolished in order to find stones for the new building, which was +unfinished when the Protector was beheaded in 1552. The architect is +supposed to have been John of Padua. It is not, however, certain how far +the place was completed at the death of the Protector. Elizabeth gave +the keeping of the house to her kinsman, Lord Hunsdon. James called it +Denmark House. Charles gave it to his Queen, Henrietta Maria, and built +a chapel for the Roman Catholic service. Some of the Queen's attendants +are buried here; their tombs are in vaults under the great square. A +register of the marriages, baptisms and burials which have taken place +at Somerset House has been published by Sir T. Philips. Here Henrietta +appeared in a masque; here died Inigo Jones; here Oliver Cromwell's body +lay in state; after the Restoration Henrietta returned here for a time; +Catherine of Braganza succeeded; here the body of Monk, Duke of +Albemarle, lay in state; and here, after Catherine left England, the +place became like the Savoy, the favoured residence of the poorer +nobility. The old building was destroyed in 1775. + +In the new Somerset House, erected 1776-1786--architect, Sir William +Chambers--were for many years held the meetings of the Royal Society; +the Society of Antiquaries; the Royal Academy of Arts; the Astronomical, +Geological and Geographical Societies. A great deal of public business +is carried on at Somerset House. The east wing is occupied by King's +College, founded in 1828. Opposite to Somerset House a stream came down +from the higher ground; it was crossed by the Strand Bridge. The waters +flowed through the palace into the river. + +On the east side of Somerset House stood Arundel House, originally +Bath's Inn, as the town-house of the Bishop of Bath and Wells. In this +house were set up the famous Arundel marbles. The Duc de Sully, who was +lodged here during his embassy to England on the accession of James I., +speaks of it as a most commodious house. Near Arundel House and Somerset +House was an Inn of Chancery called Chester Inn. + +Among the buildings destroyed to make room for Somerset House was a +small church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and, according to some, to +St. Ursula. The Duke of Somerset promised to build another for the +people, but was beheaded before he could fulfil his promise. On the +present site of St. Mary's Church, and at the west end, stood a stone +cross where the justices itinerant sat at certain seasons, and also on +the site was the old Strand well. The cross became decayed, and a +maypole was erected either on its site or close beside it. The Puritans +pulled down the maypole, but after the Restoration another and a much +taller one, measuring in two pieces 134 feet, was put up by sailors +under the direction of the Duke of York amid the rejoicings of the +people. The maypole stood until 1713, when the remaining portion was +carried away to Wanstead Park, where it was used for holding a +telescope. The Church of St. Mary le Strand was built 1714-1723 by James +Gibbs. It was the first of the fifty new churches ordered (not all +built) by Queen Anne, and it was at first called New Church. The style +of the church has been vehemently abused, and yet it has grown in favour +and has now many admirers. It is divided into two parts, of which the +lower has no window, being built solid to keep out the noise of the +street. The windows are in the upper part. The church within is nobly +ornamented and is without galleries. Before the west end of the church +was the first stand for hackney coaches. + + "Around that area side they take their stand, + Where the tall maypole o'erlooked the Strand; + And now--so Anne and Piety ordain-- + A church collects the saints of Drury Lane." + +And again the poet asks: + + "What's not destroyed by Time's devouring hand? + Where's Troy--and where's the Maypole in the Strand?" + +Mrs. Inchbald lived by the side of the New Church in the Strand. + +The immense changes taking place in the Strand begin to be very +noticeable opposite Somerset House. At the time of writing a few houses +at the corner of Wellington Street are still standing, but will soon +disappear. + +On the south side of the Strand, just beyond the east end of St. Mary's +Church, is a narrow entry called Strand Lane. This was formerly Strand +Bridge, over one of the rivulets running down to the Thames, and later +it still retained the same name, meaning the bridge or landing stairs at +the river end. + +Some way down this lane there is a notice pointing out a Roman bath +which is still in existence and well worth seeing. The bath now belongs +to Messrs. Glave, drapers in New Oxford Street, and is open free of +charge for anyone to inspect between eleven and twelve o'clock on +Saturday mornings. It is a rough vaulted chamber which has wisely been +left without any attempt at decoration, and the bath itself measures +about six yards by one and a half. It is four feet in depth, and is fed +by a spring which continually flows in. Subscribers are allowed to use +it on the payment of two guineas per annum. There was formerly a +companion bath quite near, but this was done away with at the building +of the Norfolk Hotel. The slabs of white marble which form the pavement +of the existing bath were taken from it. It is curious that such a +relic, computed to be perhaps 2,000 years old, should survive hidden and +almost unnoticed, where so many buildings long anterior in date have +utterly vanished. The bath is not mentioned by Stow or Malcolm in their +accounts of London, and probably was not discovered when they wrote. + +In Surrey Street Congreve died in 1729. The greater part of this and the +neighbouring streets has been very recently rebuilt. Huge modern +red-brick mansions with all the latest conveniences of electric light +and lifts replace the old mansion which once stood here. These are +carefully built and not unpicturesque; they are let in flats, and house +a multitude of offices, clubs, etc. They are called by the names of the +noble families who once lived here--Arundel House, Mowbray House, and +Howard House. In Norfolk Street there are hotels and a small ladies' +club, the Writers', the only women's club in London which demands a +professional qualification from its members. Peter the Great lodged in +this street, and William Penn, the Quaker, was at the last house in the +south-west corner. + +In Howard Street Mrs. Bracegirdle, the actress, once lodged, and a wild +attempt was made by an admirer to carry her off one night as she +returned from the theatre. The well-known duellist, Lord Mohun, took +part in the outrage which ended in the death of the actor Mountford. +Congreve was also a resident in Howard Street, removing afterwards to +Surrey Street. The old Crown and Anchor Tavern stood in Arundel Street, +in which was the Whittington Club, founded by Douglas Jerrold, who was +the first president. At the corner of Arundel Street is the depot of W. +H. Smith and Sons, the largest book and newspaper business in the world, +having the monopoly of the station bookstalls. + +St. Clement Danes Church, at the east end of the Strand, is said to have +been so called because the Danes who remained after Alfred's final +victory were made to live in this quarter. The church is of extreme +antiquity. That which was taken down in 1680 was certainly not the +earliest. In its churchyard lie the remains of King Harold. The new +church was built by Edward Pierce, under the superintendence of Wren. +The present tower and steeple were added by Gibbs. St. Clement's has +long been famous for its bells, commented on in the children's game: + + "Oranges and lemons + Say the bells of St. Clement's." + +Oranges and lemons used to be distributed among the parish poor at +certain seasons. The bells, ten in number, still peal as merrily as of +old. In the gallery a brass plate with an inscription marks the spot +where Dr. Johnson regularly sat in his attendance at service. The body +of the church is filled with high old-fashioned pews, and the pulpit is +a peculiarly rich bit of work attributed to Grinling Gibbons, though it +does not altogether follow the usual type of his designs. Several +monuments hang on the walls and pillars, but none of any general +interest. In the church are buried Otway and Nathaniel Lee. The plate +belonging to the church is very handsome and valuable, of silver, and +some pieces date back to the time of Queen Elizabeth. The registers also +commence at 1558, and contain several interesting entries. One of the +earliest is the baptism of Robert Cecil, June 6, 1563, son of the High +Treasurer, who was himself Prime Minister under Elizabeth and James I. + +Essex Street recalls the fascinating and unhappy Essex, favourite of +Queen Elizabeth. Essex House was built on the above-mentioned piece of +ground called the Outer Temple which never belonged to the lawyers, but +had been annexed by the Bishops of Exeter in the reign of the second +Edward. This was then known as Exeter House. It was sacked by the +populace in the same reign, and the unlucky prelate Walter Stapledon, +who had taken the side of the King in his disputes with the Queen, was +carried off and beheaded. The house was rebuilt, and continued to belong +to the See until the reign of Henry VIII. But it seemed to have some +malignant influence, for nearly all its successive owners suffered some +unhappy fate. Lord Paget, who occupied it during Henry VIII.'s reign, +narrowly escaped being beheaded. Thomas Howard, fourth son of the Duke +of Norfolk, who succeeded, died in the Tower after many years of +imprisonment. Dudley, Earl of Leicester, followed, and during his period +of residence the house can claim association with the name of Spenser, +who was a frequent visitor. Leicester escaped the malevolent influence +of the house, which he left to his son-in-law, Robert Devereux, Earl of +Essex. During the Earl's occupancy the mansion went through some stormy +scenes. It was here that he assembled his fellow-conspirators which he +left to his step-son, Robert Devereux, to arouse the people to aid him +to obtain possession of the Queen's person, but he found his popularity +unequal to the demand. The people turned against him, and he was driven +back to his own house, which he barricaded. But his resistance was +useless. Artillery was employed against him, and a gun mounted on the +tower of St. Clement's Church. He was forced to surrender, and being +found guilty of high treason, was executed. After the Restoration the +house was let in tenements. It was pulled down about the end of the +seventeenth century, but the Watergate at the end of the street is said +to have been a part of it. The street was built in 1862. Dr. Johnson +established here a small club known as the Essex Head Club. + +The Essex Street Chapel, which was the headquarters of the Unitarians in +London, was built upon part of the site of the house; Smith says it was +part of the original building. The Cottonian Library was kept here from +1712 to 1730. A lecture-hall now stands on the site of the chapel. The +Ethical Society give lectures here on Sunday evenings. + +With Temple Bar the City of London, or, rather, the Liberties thereof, +begin, and it is here that on great state occasions the Lord Mayor meets +his Sovereign and hands to him the keys of the City. The first building +on this spot was a timber house, but the exact date of its erection +cannot be ascertained. It was probably put up for the decoration of a +pageant, and, being found useful, was kept up. The gate has been often +taken to have been part of the defences of the City, which it certainly +was not, being protected or strengthened with neither moat nor +drawbridge, nor being strong enough for the mounting of cannon. The Bar, +a simple arrangement of chain and rails, is mentioned as early as 1301, +but it cannot be ascertained that there was any building upon it. In +1502 the custody of the Bar, together with that of Newgate and Ludgate, +is assigned to Alderman Fabian and others. + +In 1533 it would seem that a gate was standing here, because for the +reception of Anne Boleyn Temple Bar was newly painted and repaired, +"whereon stood divers singing men and children." Again in 1547, for the +coronation of Edward VI., the Bar was painted and fashioned with +battlements. In 1554 the "new gates" of Temple Bar were assigned to the +custody of the City. Aggas's map shows the Bar as a covered gate. The +gateway was very cumbersome, blocking up an already narrow street. Among +other ceremonies it witnessed the progresses of Queen Elizabeth and +Queen Anne respectively, to return thanks in St. Paul's Cathedral, the +one for deliverance from the Armada, and the other in gratitude for +Marlborough's victories. Inigo Jones, when he was engaged upon the +Restoration of St. Paul's, was invited to furnish a design for a new +arch. He complied, but his design was never carried out. It was engraved +in 1727. + +The Great Fire was checked before it reached Temple Bar. In 1670, +however, the old gate was removed and its successor built by Wren. The +familiar gate, still (1902) remembered by everybody who has reached +manhood, was removed in the year 1878, and a monument with the City +Dragon, colloquially known as the Griffin, was put up on the site of the +Bar. The stones of the ancient building were preserved, and have been +rebuilt in the park of Sir H. Meux at Cheshunt. One of the decorations +of the later gateway consisted of iron spikes on which the heads of +traitors were displayed, notably those of the men incriminated in the +rebellions of the eighteenth century. When a high wind arose, these +heads were sometimes blown down into the street below, a sight better to +be imagined than described. From this circumstance Temple Bar was +sometimes called the Golgotha of London. + +Here we turn westward, and resume our perambulation in the part lying +along the northern side of the Strand, which has not yet been described. + +The parish of St. Clement Danes has changed very greatly since ancient +times, when a large part of it, stretching from Lincoln's Inn Fields to +the Strand, was known as Fickett's Field, and was the jousting-place of +the Templars. This portion became gradually covered with houses and +courts, which were at first fashionable dwelling-places, and were +associated with noble names. These degenerated until, at the beginning +of the present century, a vast rookery of noisome tenements, inhabited +by the poorest and most wretched people, covered the greater part of the +parish to the north of the Strand. The erection of the new Law Courts, +1868, entirely swept away numbers of these tenements, and opened out the +parish to the north of the church. The change thus effected paved the +way for further reformation, and though the streets about the site of +Clare Market are poor and squalid, they show a beginning of better +things, and no longer own such an evil reputation as they did. + +Further north, beyond King's College Hospital, is Portugal Street, +called by Strype "Playhouse Street." In the times of the later Stuarts +it was a very fashionable locality. It is said that women first +performed on the stage in public at the King's Theatre, in this street. +The players were often patronized by Pepys. In 1717 the first English +opera was performed here, and in 1727 the "Beggar's Opera" was produced +with unprecedented success; but in 1835 the theatre in Portugal Street +was taken down to make room for the enlargement of the museum belonging +to the College of Surgeons. + +Portsmouth Street contains a quaint, low, red-tiled house purporting to +be the Old Curiosity Shop of Dickens' novel. The Black Jack Tavern, of +some notoriety, stood here. It was the resort of the actors and +dramatists of the adjacent theatre, and was the scene of a famous +escape of Jack Sheppard from the Bow Street officers. It is said to have +been a meeting-place of the Cato Street conspirators. + +Shear or Shire Lane formerly ran from the east end of Carey Street to +the Strand, and formed the parish boundary. This was a narrow, dirty +lane of the vilest reputation before its demolition, but it had known +better days. A very famous tavern stood in the lane, first called the +Cat and Fiddle, later the Trumpet, and still later the Duke of York's. +The well-known Kitcat Club met here originally. This was a society of +thirty-nine gentlemen or noblemen zealously attached to the Protestant +succession in the House of Hanover, and originated about 1700. Addison +and Steele, Congreve, Vanbrugh, and others of celebrity, besides the +Dukes of Somerset, Devonshire, Marlborough, Newcastle, etc., and many +others, titled and untitled, were of the society. The bookseller Tonson +was the secretary, and he had his own and all their portraits painted by +Sir Godfrey Kneller, who was also a member of the club. Addison dated +many of his famous essays from this address. The lane was known in the +reign of the first James as Rogues' Lane. + +The south side of Lincoln's Inn Fields only is within our boundaries, +but the square is worth seeing. It is the largest in London, and was +partly designed by Inigo Jones, who built the west side, called the Arch +Row; the east side was bounded by the garden wall of Lincoln's Inn; on +the north was Holborn Row; the south side was Portugal Row. The history +of Lincoln's Inn Fields is a curious combination of rascality and of +aristocracy. The rascals infested the fields, which were filled with +wrestlers, rogues and cheats, pick-pockets, cripples and footpads; the +aristocrats occupied the stately houses on the west side. Among the +residents here were Lord Somers, the Duke of Newcastle, Lord Kenyon, +Lord Erskine, and Spencer Percival. In the fields Babington and his +accomplices were executed, some of them on the 20th, and some on the +21st, of September, 1586. Here also on July 21, 1683, William, Lord +Russell was beheaded. + +East of Drury Lane there lies a curious district mainly made up of lanes +now rapidly disappearing, such as Clare Market, Wild Street, and a +network of narrow courts. In 1657 Howell speaks of the Earl of Clare as +living "in a princely manner" in this neighbourhood. It was in Clare +Market that Orator Henley had his chapel. The market was one chiefly for +meat, and the shops and sheds were mainly occupied by butchers. Dr. +Radcliffe frequented a tavern in this place, and Mrs. Bracegirdle, the +actress, used to visit the market in order to assist the poor +basket-women. The place is now almost gone. There was a notorious +burial-ground, closed at last after its enormities had been exposed over +and over again. King's College Hospital is built upon a part of the +slums. Clement's Inn will be swept away by the Strand improvements. New +Inn is still standing; Danes' Inn is a modern court with offices and +residential chambers. Wych Street itself has still some of the old +houses left. In Newcastle Street was Lyons' Inn, cleared away to make +room for a theatre. + +Drury Lane derives its name from the family mansion of the Druries which +stood on the site. The brave Lord Craven bought this house and rebuilt +it. It is stated that he married privately the Queen of Bohemia, +daughter of James I. Timbs says that she occupied the house adjoining +Craven House, which was connected with it by a subterranean passage. +Craven Buildings were built in 1723 upon the site of the house; Hayman, +the artist, and Mrs. Bracegirdle, the actress, both had rooms in these +buildings. The Olympic Theatre is also partly on the site of Craven +House. + +Drury Lane was once a fashionable quarter, but lost that reputation +before many of its contemporaries, and since the time of the third +William has borne a more or less vile character. Nell Gwynne was born in +Coal Yard, which opens off on the east side. + +The Drury Lane Theatre has many interesting associations. It was built +by Killigrew in 1663, and was called the King's House, under which title +Pepys recalls many visits to it. In 1671 it was burnt down. It was +rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren, and opened 1674. Among the list of +patentees we have the names of Rich, Steele, Doggett, Wilks, Cibber, +Booth, and also Garrick, who began here his Shakespearian revivals. +Sheridan succeeded Garrick as part proprietor, and in 1788 John Kemble +became manager. The old theatre was demolished in 1791, and a new one +opened three years after. This was also burned down in 1809, and the +present theatre opened three years later. J. T. Smith takes the origin +of the theatre still further back, saying that even from the time of +Shakespeare there had been a theatre here, which had been a cockpit. The +site of the cockpit, however, is on the other side of Drury Lane, where +Pit Place now is. + +North of the theatre was a disused burial-ground, later asphalted and +turned into a public playground. It was less than a quarter of an acre +in extent. It is now built over by workmen's dwellings of the usual +kind. It was an additional burial-ground to St. Mary's le Strand, and is +mentioned by Dickens in "Bleak House." + +Crown Court recalls the Crown Tavern where _Punch_ was first projected. +The south end of Drury Lane, running into Wych Street, is now +completely altered. New Inn and Booksellers' Row, otherwise Holywell +Street, are wiped off the map, and the semicircular arm of the great new +street connecting Holborn and the Strand will come out near St. +Clement's Church. The name Holywell referred to a holy well which stood +on the spot. There were, apparently, several of these wells in the +vicinity; one was on the site of the Law Courts (_Times_, May 1, 1874). +The street was a survival of old London, with its houses picturesquely +old, with pointed gables, and it is a cause for regret that it had to go +down in the march of modern improvements (see _frontispiece_). + +Butcher Row ran round the north side of the church. It was so named from +a flesh-market established here by Edward I. Numerous small courts +opened off in the north side. Among these were Hemlock, Swan, Chair, +Crown and Star Courts. The Row and its vicinity had for many years a +notoriously bad reputation. One of the courts off Little Shear Alley was +Boswell Court, not, as some have imagined, called after Johnson's +biographer. This court was at one time a very fashionable place of +residence; Lady Raleigh, the widow of Sir Walter, lived here for three +years. + +In Butcher Row the houses were picturesque, of timber and plaster. In +one of them the great de Rosny, afterwards Duc de Sully, lodged for one +night when he came to England as the French Ambassador. + +Turning westward, we see what is left of Newcastle Street, which was +named after John Holles, Duke of Newcastle, who owned the ground (1711). +The work of demolition is going on as far as Catherine Street, where the +Gaiety theatre still stands, though not for long, for the second great +scimitar sweep of the new street will join the Strand here. + +The parish of St. Paul's lies like a leaf on the parish of St. +Martin's-in-the-Fields, by which it is wholly surrounded. Its southern +boundary runs most erratically, zigzagging in and out across the streets +which connect Maiden Lane and Henrietta Street with the Strand. The +eastern line keeps on the east side of Bow and Brydges Street. The north +passes along the north side of Hart Street, and the west cuts across the +east ends of Garrick and New Streets, keeping to the east of +Bedfordbury. + +The name Covent is a corruption of Convent, and is taken from the +convent garden of the Abbey of Westminster, which was formerly on this +site. It was written Covent, as taken from the French _couvent_ more +immediately than the Latin _conventus_. + +At the dissolution of the monasteries, Westminster Convent Garden became +Crown property. In the first year of his reign Edward VI. granted it to +the Duke of Somerset. On the fall of that nobleman it reverted to the +Crown, and in 1552 was granted to the Earl of Bedford with "seven acres, +called Long Acre." The Earl of Bedford built a town-house on his newly +acquired property, and devoted himself to the improvement of the +neighbourhood. + +Though the parish is so small, it is full of interesting associations, +chiefly of the last two centuries. Wits, actors, literary men, and +artists, frequented its taverns and swarmed in its precincts. The +contrast between its earlier days, when it was a quiet retreat where the +monks slowly paced beneath the sheltering trees, and its later +vicissitudes, when the eighteenth-century roisterers and gamesters made +merry within its taverns, could hardly be more striking. + +The great square called the Market was laid out by the Earl of Bedford +in 1631; the Piazza ran along the north and east sides; the church and +churchyard formed the west side; on the south was the wall of Bedford +House, and by a small grove of trees in the middle stood a sundial. The +place gradually grew as a market. In 1710 there were only a few sheds; +in 1748 the sheds had become tenements, with upper rooms inhabited by +bakers, cooks and retailers of gin. + +The square itself is redolent of memories. When first built it was one +of the most fashionable parts of London, and the names of the occupiers +were all titled or distinguished. We read among them those of the Bishop +of Durham, Duke of Richmond, Earl of Oxford, Marquis of Winchester, Sir +Godfrey Kneller, and the Earl of Sussex. The arcade, or Piazza, as it +was called, was a fashionable lounging-place, and many foundling +children were called Piazza in its honour. One of the scenes in Otway's +"Soldier of Fortune" is laid here, and also one in Wycherley's "Country +Wife." Sir Peter Lely had a house in the square, and this house was +successively occupied by Sir Godfrey Kneller and Sir James Thornhill +(Timbs). Coffee-houses and taverns abounded in and about the square. Of +these the most famous were Will's, Button's and Tom's, well known by the +references to them in contemporary literature. The first of these in +point of time was "Will's," which stood at the north corner of Russell +and Bow Streets (see p. 106). + +The Bedford Coffee-house under the Piazza succeeded Button's, or, +rather, came into vogue afterwards when Garrick, Quin, Foote and others +used it. The house stood at the north-east corner. It is described as a +place of resort for critics. "Everyone you meet is a polite scholar and +critic ... the merit of every production of the press is weighed and +determined." Apparently a place where the conversation was a continual +attempt at smartness; it must have been most fatiguing. The weak point, +indeed, of this public life was the demand it created for conversational +display. The greater part of Johnson's pithy sayings were delivered in +such a mixed company, and were prepared in sonorous English to suit the +company. + +An article in the _London Mercury_, January 13, 1721, states that there +were twenty-two gaming-houses in the parish. Besides all these +attractions, there was Covent Garden theatre opened in 1733 by Rich, +though the first patent had been granted to Sir William Davenant. In +1746 Garrick joined Rich, but at the end of the season left him for +Drury Lane, taking with him all the best actors. In 1803 Kemble became +proprietor and stage-manager, but five years later the theatre was +completely burnt. It was rebuilt under the directions of R. Smirke, and +when re-opened was the scene of a singularly pertinacious revolt. The +prices had been raised in consequence of the improved accommodation, and +the people in the pit banded themselves together under the name of "Old +Prices," and made such an intolerable uproar that the piece could not +proceed. Smith says "the town seemed to have lost its senses." For weeks +people wore O.P. hats and O.P. handkerchiefs, and interrupted every +attempt to carry the play through. In the end a compromise was made. In +1840 Charles Kemble left the theatre, and the building was leased to C. +Mathews, Madame Vestris and Macready. In 1847 it was opened as an +Italian Opera-House after being almost rebuilt. It was again destroyed +by fire in 1856, but the façade was saved with its bas-reliefs and +statues by Flaxman and Rossi. These were placed on the present building +designed by Barry, which was opened two years later. + +The Church of St. Paul, Covent Garden, was built by Inigo Jones in 1633 +at the expense of the Earl of Bedford; consecrated by Bishop Juxon in +1638; destroyed by fire in 1795; rebuilt by John Hardwick in the place +of the original building. And the story goes that when the architect +heard the commission, "to build a church not much bigger than a barn," +he replied it should be the handsomest barn in England. + +Buried here are Robert Carr, Earl of Somerset; Sir Henry Herbert and +Samuel Butler, author of "Hudibras," died 1680; Sir Peter Lely, died +1680, whose monument was destroyed in the fire; Edward Kynaston, actor; +Wycherley, the dramatist; Grinling Gibbons, died 1721, sculptor in wood; +Susannah Centlivre; Dr. Arne, musician, died 1778; Charles Macklin, +comedian, died 1797 at the age of 107; John Wolcott, _alias_ Peter +Pindar, died 1819. The registers begin at 1615, and among the baptismal +entries are the names of Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, May 26, 1689, and +Turner, the painter, May 14, 1775. + +The church is visible from the street on the east and the market on the +west, but accessible only by a covered entry under the houses on the +north and south. In Hogarth's picture of "Morning" we get a glimpse of +the old church before its destruction, with clock-dial, and tiled roof, +not so very dissimilar from what it is at present. + +The election of members for Westminster formerly took place on a +hustings before the church, when there were scenes of wild riot. The +most memorable of these elections was that of Fox and Sir Cecil Wray in +1784. + +Bow Street, Covent Garden, was built in 1637, and named after its shape, +that of a bent bow. It is remarkable for the number of well-known +persons who have lived in it. It was one of the most fashionable streets +in the Metropolis, and Dryden wrote in the epilogue to one of his plays: + + "I've had to-day a dozen billet-doux + From fops and wits and cits and Bow Street beaux;" + +on which Sir Walter Scott remarked a billet-doux from Bow Street would +now be more alarming than flattering. The police officer began his reign +here in 1749. + +Henry Fielding, who was in authority in 1753, did much to suppress the +unbridled license and open highway robbery of the Metropolis. + +Will's Coffee-house was at No. 1, on the west side, the corner of +Russell Street. The principal room was on the first floor. Dryden made +the house the chief place of resort for the poets and wits of the time. +After his death Addison took the company across the street to Button's. +Ned Ward's notes on Will's are not respectful. + +"From thence we adjourned to the Wits' Coffee-house.... Accordingly, +upstairs we went, and found much company, but little talk.... We +shuffled through this moving crowd of philosophical mutes to the other +end of the room, where three or four wits of the upper class were +rendezvous'd at a table, and were disturbing the ashes of the old poets +by perverting their sense.... At another table were seated a parcel of +young, raw, second-rate beaus and wits, who were conceited if they had +but the honour to dip a finger and thumb into Mr. Dryden's snuff-box" +(Cunningham, p. 555.). + +Defoe, on the other hand, is more complimentary:-- + + "Now view the beaus at Will's, the men of wit, + By nature nice, and for discerning fit, + The finished fops, the men of wig and muff. + Knights of the famous oyster-barrel snuff." + +At Button's there was a carved lion's head, of which the mouth was a +letter-box for contributions to the _Guardian_ and _Tatler_. This was +set up by Addison in 1713, and attracted much attention. It was removed +in 1731 to the Shakespeare Tavern, and later came into the possession of +the Duke of Bedford. Tom's was the last of the three famous houses. It +was started by a waiter from Will's, and managed to hold its own. It was +on the north side of the street, nearly opposite Button's. + +The literary associations of the street are innumerable. Wycherley +lodged here, and after an illness was visited by Charles II., who gave +him £500 for a trip to France. The well-known Cock Tavern was just +opposite his rooms, and when Wycherley had married the Countess of +Drogheda he used to sit in the tavern with the windows open so that his +jealous wife could see there were no women in his company. This tavern +was the resort of the rakes and mohocks that for a while made the +neighbourhood a terror to decent people. Henry Fielding wrote "Tom +Jones" while living in this street. Grinling Gibbons died here. Edmund +Waller, the poet, lived here during the Commonwealth, and Robert Harley, +Earl of Oxford, was born here in 1661. Radcliffe, the Court physician, +was a resident in the beginning of the eighteenth century. + +The streets opening out of the square can boast many interesting +associations. + +Henrietta Street was named after Charles I.'s Queen. Samuel Cooper, +miniature-painter, lived here. The Castle Tavern, where Sheridan fought +with Mathews on account of Miss Linley, was in this street. + +Maiden Lane can claim several illustrious names. It was the birthplace +of Turner; Andrew Marvell and Voltaire both lodged here. + +Long Acre was originally an open field called the Elms, and later known +as Seven Acres, from a grant of land made to the Duke of Bedford. A +curious house-to-house survey of 1650 is preserved in the Augmentation +Office. From this it would appear that the street at that date was full +of small shops, grocers, chandlers, etc., with here and there a big +house occupied by some titled person. Ever since the first introduction +of coaches Long Acre has been particularly favoured by coachbuilders, +and at the present time it is lined by carriage-works. Long Acre was the +scene of many convivial gatherings in the Hanoverian times. It can claim +the first "mug-house," an institution which speedily became popular. +Oliver Cromwell lived on the south side of Long Acre, and Dryden and +Butler in Rose Street, a dirty little alley half destroyed by the +building of Garrick Street. Here Dryden was set upon by three hired +bullies at the command of Lord Rochester, who was insulted by some +satirical lines which he attributed to the poet. + +Garrick Street was built about 1864, and the club of the same name was +founded for the patronage of dramatic art. + +St. Martin's Lane is one of the oldest thoroughfares in the parish. It +was built about 1613, and was then known as West Church Lane. It ran +right through to the front of Northumberland House, and prints are still +extant showing the church peeping over the line of houses on the western +side. + +St. Martin's Lane claims many celebrated names, and was a favourite +resort for artists. The house in which Inigo Jones lived is still +pointed out--No. 31 on the east side. Almost exactly opposite this is +the Public Library, built at the same time as the Municipal Buildings; +it contains a fine reference collection (see also p. 21.) The lane +abounds with memories of the past. In St. Peter's Court Roubiliac +established a studio, afterwards a drawing academy, which numbered +Hayman, Cipriani, Ramsay, Cosway, Nollekens, Reynolds and Hogarth among +its members; this was the predecessor of the Royal Academy. This court +was two or three doors above the Free Library, and was eventually closed +up at the west end by the Garrick Theatre. No. 114 is traditionally on +the site of the mansion of the Earls of Salisbury, in which, also +traditionally, the Seven Bishops were confined before being committed +to the Tower. The names of Chippendale, Nathaniel Hone and Fuseli are +associated with the lane, also Sir Joshua Reynolds and Sir James +Thornhill. + +Old Slaughter's Coffee-house alone is enough to redeem any street from +oblivion. This was established in 1692, and stood on the spot where +Cranbourne Street now crosses the end of St. Martin's Lane. It was a +favourite resort of all the painters and sculptors of the time, not to +mention the wits and beaux. Hogarth was a constant visitor, his house in +Leicester Square being conveniently near. Roubiliac, Gainsborough, and +also Wilkie, came to enjoy society at Old Slaughter's, and Pope and +Dryden are known to have visited it. The first chess club in London was +established here in 1747. + +And now we have strolled around the chosen area, making Trafalgar Square +the centre, and returning to and fro in two great loops eastward and +westward, resembling a true lovers' knot. We have been in the company of +King and courtier, rebel and wit. We have consorted with the gay fops of +the eighteenth century in their club and coffee house life, and we have +seen the haunts of men whose names are household words wherever the +English tongue is spoken. + +It has been chiefly seventeenth and eighteenth century life that has +enchained us as we read the pages of the past, and in its richness and +variety at least the eighteenth century would be difficult to rival. +Prosaic London, with her borough councils, her Strand improvements, and +her immense utilitarian flats, still retains the glamour of her bygone +days, and if her present buildings are without much attraction, they are +glorified by the halo of their association with their fascinating +predecessors. + + + + +INDEX + + +Albemarle, Duchess of, 74 + +Albemarle, Duke of, 83 + +Addison, 58, 95, 106 + +Adelphi, 72 + +Adelphi Terrace, 74 + +Admiralty, 12 + +Agar Street, 71 + +Apsley House, 52 + +Arlington House, 2 + +Arne, Dr., 104 + +Arundel Street, 88 + +Astley, 62 + + +Babington, 96 + +Bacon, 71 + +Baily, 27 + +Beauclerk, Topham, 30 + +Beaufort Buildings, 77 + +Beckford, Alderman, 33 + +Bedford Coffee House, 102 + +Bedford House, 77 + +Belines, 27 + +Berkshire House, 58 + +Bermudas, 16 + +Bleak House, 98 + +Blessington, Lady, 50 + +Blood, Colonel, 57 + +Bohemia, Queen of, 22, 97 + +Bolingbroke, Lord, 40 + +Booksellers' Row, 99 + +Boswell Court, 99 + +Bow Street, 105 + +Bracegirdle, Mrs., 88, 96, 97 + +Braganza, Catherine, 83 + +Bridgewater House, 37, 58 + +Buckingham, Duke of, 2, 12 + +Buckingham Palace, 1 + +Buckingham Street, 71 + +Burdett, Sir Francis, 76 + +Burke, Edmund, 29, 30, 54 + +Burlington Arcade, 44 + +Burlington Gardens, 44 + +Burlington House, 43 + +Burney, Miss, 23, 58 + +Bury Street, 64 + +Butcher Row, 99 + +Butler, Samuel, 104, 108 + +Button's Coffee House, 106 + +Byron, Lord, 57, 61 + + +Canning, George, 10, 54 + +Caribbean Islands, 16 + +Carlisle House, 33 + +Carlton House, 8 + +Carlton House Terrace, 8 + +Caroline, Queen, 52 + +Catherine Street, 107 + +Cecil Hotel, 76 + +Cecil House, 77 + +Centlivre, Susannah, 104 + +Chandos Street, 72 + +Chapel Street (Soho), 30 + +Charing Cross, 13 + +Charing Cross Road, 21, 30 + +Charing Cross Station, 70 + +Charles Street, 49, 54 + +Charlotte, Queen, 2 + +Chaucer, Geoffrey, 17, 81 + +Chaworth, Mr., 61 + +Chester Inn, 84 + +Chippendale, 110 + +Churches: + Chapel Royal, 7 + Essex Street Chapel, 91 + German Chapel, 7 + St. Anne's, 25 + St. Clement Danes, 88 + St. James's, 41 + St. Martin's, 18 + St. Mary le Strand, 85 + St. Mary the Virgin, 30 + St. Patrick, 35 + St. Paul's, Covent Garden, 104 + St. Philip's, 64 + +Cibber, Colley, 10 + +Cibber, Mrs., 40 + +Clare, Earl of, 96 + +Clare Market, 96 + +Clarence House, 6 + +Clarendon, Lord, 77 + +Clarges, Anne, 73 + +Clement's Inn, 97 + +Cleveland House, 52 + +Cleveland Square, 58 + +Clubs: + Albany, 44 + Almack's, 45, 56 + Army and Navy, 52 + Arthur's, 56 + Athenæum, 63 + Boodle's, 55 + Brooke's, 56 + Button's, 106 + Carlton, 63 + Cocoa-tree, 56 + Colonial, 52 + Conservative, 56 + East India United Service, 52 + Guards, 61 + Junior Carlton, 53 + Junior United Service, 65 + Kitcat, 95 + New Oxford and Cambridge, 61 + Old Slaughter's Coffee House, 110 + Oxford and Cambridge University, 52, 61 + Pall Mall, 51 + Parthenon, 53 + Portland, 60 + Reform, 63 + Rumpsteak, 61 + Savage, 75 + Sports, 50 + St. James's Coffee House, 57 + Thatched House, 57 + Tom's, 107 + Travellers', 63 + Union, 18 + United Service, 64 + White's, 55 + Whittington, 88 + Will's Coffee House, 106 + Willis's Rooms, 45 + Windham, 51 + Writers', 87 + +College of Physicians, 18 + +Congreve, 87, 88 + +Constitution Hill, 1 + +Cooper, Samuel, 108 + +Cornelys, Mrs., 34 + +Cosway, 62 + +Cottonian Library, 91 + +Coutt's Bank, 75 + +Covent Garden, 100 + +Covent Garden Market, 101 + +Coventry Street, 39 + +Crabbe, 54 + +Craig's Court, 11 + +Craven, Lord, 41, 97 + +Craven House, 97 + +Craven Street, 70 + +Cromwell, Oliver, 83, 108 + +Crown Court, 98 + +Crown Street, 30 + + +Dane's Inn, 97 + +Dean Street, 26 + +Delaney, Mrs., 58 + +De Quincey, 29, 36, 40 + +Derby, Earl of, 50 + +Derby House, 48 + +Dickens, 72 + +Drummond's Bank, 10 + +Drury Lane, 97 + +Dryden, 4, 29, 106, 108, 110 + +Duke Street, 45, 71 + +Durham House, 72 + +Duval, Claude, 72 + + +Essex, Earl of, 90 + +Essex House, 89 + +Essex Street, 89 + +Evelyn, 4 + +Exeter Hall, 78 + +Exeter House, 77, 89 + +Exeter Street, 77 + + +Fielding, Henry, 105, 107 + +Flaxman, 26 + +Fleetwood, General, 12 + +Fox, C., 57 + +France, King John of, 80 + +Francis, Philip, 51 + +Franklin, Benjamin, 70 + +Frederick, Prince of Wales, 8, 22 + +Free Library, 109 + +Frith Street, 27, 30 + +Froissart, 81 + + +Gainsborough, 62, 110 + +Gaming House, 37 + +Garrick, 98, 103 + +Garrick Street, 109 + +Gaunt, John of, 81 + +Gay, 77 + +George III., 22 + +Gerrard Street, 29 + +Gibbon, 57 + +Gibbons, Grinling, 104, 107 + +Gladstone, Mr., 50 + +Godolphin House, 4 + +Golden Cross Hotel, 70 + +Golden Square, 40 + +Goldsmith, Dr., 30 + +Gordon, General, 17 + +Gordon Riots, 22 + +Green Park, 1 + +Grenville, 59 + +Grey, Lady Jane, 73 + +Guards' Monument, 64 + +Gwynne, Nell, 20, 53, 60, 97 + + +Halifax House, 52 + +Handel, 44 + +Hartshorn Lane, 16 + +Hawkins, Sir J., 30 + +Hayman, 27, 97 + +Haymarket, 65 + +Hazlitt, 26 + +Hedge Lane, 67 + +Henley, Orator, 96 + +Henrietta Maria, 83 + +Henrietta Street, 107 + +Hog Lane, 30 + +Hogarth, 27, 110 + +Holywell Street, 99 + +Hone, Nathaniel, 62, 110 + +Hospitals: + Charing Cross, 71 + Diseases of the Heart and Paralysis, 32 + King's College, 94, 97 + For Women, 32 + +Howard Street, 88 + +Howard, Thomas, 90 + +Hume, David, 30 + +Hungerford Market, 70 + + +Inchbald, Mrs., 28, 86 + +Irving, Henry, 78 + +Italian Opera Company, 66 + +Ivy Bridge Lane, 76 + + +Jeffries, Lord, 29 + +Jermyn Street, 41, 45 + +Jerrold, Douglas, 88 + +Johnson, Dr., 30, 48, 78, 89, 91 + +John Street, 53, 75 + +Jones, Inigo, 11, 83, 109 + +Jonson, Ben, 16 + +Joyce, Colonel, 17 + + +Kauffman, Angelica, 40 + +Kean, Edmund, 30 + +Kemble, Charles, 30, 104 + +Kemp's Field, 25 + +King's College, 84 + +King Street, 45 + +King William Street, 71 + +Kneller, Sir Godfrey, 102 + +Konigsmarck, Count, 60 + +Kynaston, Edward, 104 + + +Langton, Mr., 30 + +Law Courts, 94 + +Lawrence, Sir Thomas, 23 + +Lee, Nathaniel, 89 + +Leicester, Earl of, 80, 90 + +Leicester Square, 21 + +Lely, Sir Peter, 102, 104 + +Lichfield House, 51 + +Lightfoot, Hannah, 65 + +Lincoln's Inn Fields, 96 + +Locket's Ordinary, 10 + +London House, 48 + +London Library, 51 + +Long Acre, 108 + +Lord Mayor of London, 24 + + +Macklin, Charles, 104 + +Maiden Lane, 108 + +Marble Arch, 3 + +Market Street, 65 + +Marlborough House, 7 + +Marvel, Andrew, 108 + +Mathews, Charles, 24, 76 + +Milton, 11 + +Mohun, Lord, 88 + +Monmouth, Duke of, 32, 77 + +Monmouth House, 31 + +Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, 105 + +Monument, The, 17 + +Moore, Thomas, 54 + +Mountford, 88 + +Mozart, 27 + +Mulberry Gardens, 3 + + +National Gallery, 18 + +National Portrait Gallery, 21 + +Nelson, 17 + +Newcastle Street, 97, 100 + +New Exchange, 73 + +New Inn, 97, 99 + +Newton, Sir Isaac, 23, 45 + +Nollekins, 27 + +Norfolk Hotel, 87 + +Norfolk House, 48 + +Norfolk Street, 87 + +Northumberland, Earl of, 15 + +Northumberland House, 15 + +Nugent, Dr., 30 + + +Oates, Titus, 15 + +Old Curiosity Shop, 94 + +Old Scotland Yard, 11 + +Onslow, Speaker, 35 + +Orange Court, 30 + +Ormond, Duke of, 57, 77 + +Ormond House, 50 + +Ossulston House, 49 + +Otway, 89 + +Oxford, Earl of, 107 + + +Paget, Lord, 90 + +Paine, 62 + +Pall Mall, 59 + +Pall Mall East, 64 + +Panton Street, 39 + +Park Place, 58 + +Penn, William, 87 + +Pepys, 4, 94, 98 + +Peter the Great, 71, 87, 95 + +Piazza, The, 101 + +Piccadilly, 38 + +Piccadilly Circus, 41 + +Pindar, Peter, 104 + +Pitt, 50, 58 + +Pope, Alexander, 58, 110 + +Portsmouth Street, 94 + +Portugal Street, 94 + +Postlethwaite, 24 + +Public Library, 21 + +_Punch_, 98 + + +Radcliffe, Dr., 96, 107 + +Raleigh, Lady, 99 + +Raleigh, Sir Walter, 73 + +Regent Street, 40 + +Reynolds, Sir Joshua, 23, 30, 110 + +Rich, 103 + +Rodney, Admiral, 59 + +Rogers, Samuel, 58 + +Rolls, The, 93 + +Roman Bath, 86 + +Romilly, Sir Samuel, 27 + +Roubiliac, 110 + +Roxburgh Library, 51 + +Royal Mews, 16 + +Rupert, Prince, 10 + +Russell, Lord William, 96 + + +Sackville Street, 43 + +Salisbury House, 76 + +Savage, Richard, 48 + +Savoy, 78 + +Savoy, Peter of, 80 + +Schomberg House, 62 + +Scott, Sir Walter, 45 + +Shaftesbury Avenue, 24 + +Shaver's Hall, 39 + +Shear or Shire Lane, 95 + +Sheppard, Jack, 95 + +Sheridan, 43, 108 + +Shovel, Sir Cloudesley, 35 + +"Simple Story," 28 + +Societies: + Antiquaries, 44, 84 + Arts, 75 + Beefsteak, 78 + Chemical, 44 + Ethical, 91 + Geographical, 44, 84 + Geological, 84 + Linnæan, 32 + Royal, 44, 84 + Royal Academy of Arts, 84 + Royal Astronomical, 44, 84 + +Soho, 24 + +Soho Square, 31 + +Somerset, Duke of, 15 + +Somerset House, 83 + +Somerset House (New), 84 + +Somerset, Protector, 83 + +Spenser, 90 + +Spring Gardens, 8 + +Spur Alley, 70 + +St. Albans, Earl of, 37 + +St. Alban's Place, 65 + +Stafford House, 4 + +St. Catherine's Hermitage, 12 + +Steele, Sir Richard, 54, 95 + +St. James's Hall, 45 + +St. James's Market, 65 + +St. James's Palace, 4 + +St. James's Parish, 37 + +St. James's Place, 58 + +St. James's Street, 54, 67 + +St. James's Square, 46 + +St. Martin's Lane, 109 + +St. Martin's Town Hall, 21 + +St. Mary Rounceval, 13 + +St. Paul's Parish, 100 + +St. Peter's Court, 109 + +Strand Bridge, 86 + +Strand Lane, 86 + +Strand, The, 67 + +Suckling, Sir John, 39 + +Suffolk, Duke of, 70 + +Suffolk House, 15 + +Sully, Duc de, 84, 99 + +Surrey Street, 87, 88 + +Sutton Street, 35 + + +Tart Hall, 2 + +Temple Bar, 91 + +Temple, The, 93 + +Tenison, 41 + +Tenison's School, 23 + +Terry, Ellen, 78 + +Theatres: + Adelphi, 76 + Criterion, 41 + Drury Lane (King's House), 103 + Empire Music Hall, 21 + Gaiety, 100 + Haymarket, 67 + Her Majesty's, 66 + King's, 94 + Lyceum, 78 + Olympic, 97 + Vaudeville, 76 + +Theodore, King of Corsica, 25 + +Thornhill, Sir James, 27, 102, 110 + +Tom's Coffee House, 107 + +Tonson, 95 + +Tooke, Horne, 24 + +Trafalgar Square, 16 + +Tunstall, Bishop, 72 + +Turk's Head, 30 + +Turner, 27, 105, 108 + +Tyburn, 3 + +Tyler, Wat, 81 + +Tyrconnell, Duchess of, 74 + + +University of London, 44 + +Usher, Archbishop, 12 + + +Vanbrugh, Sir J., 11, 95 + +Vestris, Madame, 27 + +Victoria Embankment, 71 + +Villier's Street, 71 + +Voltaire, 108 + + +Waller, 57, 107 + +Wallingford House, 12 + +Ward, 27 + +Wardour Street, 26 + +War Office, 62 + +Warwick, Sir Philip, 10 + +Wedgwood, 28, 49 + +Wellington Street, 82 + +Western General Dispensary, 30 + +Whitcomb Street, 67 + +White Bear, 41 + +Wilkes, 58 + +Williamson, Mr., 28 + +Willis's Rooms, 45 + +Will's Coffee House, 106 + +Wimbledon House, 82 + +Winchester House, 52 + +Windmill Street, 89 + +Wolcott, John, 104 + +Wolfe, 57 + +Woodfall, 12 + +Worcester House, 77 + +Worcester, Marquis of, 77 + +Wren, Sir Christopher, 11, 57 + +Wych Street, 97 + +Wycherley, 104, 107 + +Wycliff, 81 + +Wild Street, 96 + + +York Column, 8 + +York House, 71 + +York Street, 54 + + +THE END + + * * * * * + + +BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD. + + + * * * * * + + +[Illustration: STRAND DISTRICT. + +Published by A. & C. Black, London.] + + + * * * * * + +"The work fascinates me more than anything I have ever done." + SIR WALTER BESANT. + + + + +LONDON + +IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. + + +BY +SIR WALTER BESANT. + + +_IN ONE VOLUME, ABOUT 700 PAGES, CONTAINING ILLUSTRATIONS FROM +CONTEMPORARY PRINTS, AND A MAP. DEMY 4to., CLOTH, GILT TOP, PRICE_ 30s. +net. + + +EXCERPT FROM PREFACE. + +It was my husband's ambition to be the historian of London in the +Nineteenth Century, just as Stow had been in the Sixteenth Century, and +he projected "The Survey of London," which was to be a record of the +greatest, busiest, most wealthy, most populous city in the whole world, +as it was from century to century and as it is at present. + +From this history as a whole the portion relating to the Eighteenth +Century has been chosen for present publication, not only on account of +its intrinsic interest, but because of the fascination that the period +had for the author. 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E. Mitton. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + font-style: normal; + } /* page numbers */ + + .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%;} + + + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps; + font-style: normal;} +.lowercase { text-transform:lowercase; } + + ul.TOC { /* styling the Table of Contents */ + list-style-type: none; /* a list with no symbol */ + position: relative; /* makes a "container" for span.tocright */ + margin-right: 5%; /* pulls the page#s in a skosh */ + padding-right: 3em; /* MP stops text hitting numbers */ + margin-left: 1em; /* MP for long titles,indent all lines */ + text-indent: -1em; /* MP for long titles, unindent 1st line */ + } + ul.TOCSub { /* sub-entries in the TOC */ + list-style-type: none; + position: relative; /* makes a "container" for span.tocright */ + margin-right: 10%; /* pulls these page#s in even more */ + padding-right: 3em; /* MP stops text hitting numbers */ + margin-left: 1em; /* MP for long titles,indent all lines */ + text-indent: -1em; /* MP for long titles, unindent 1st line */ + } + + ul.IX { + list-style-type: none; + font-size:inherit; /* i.e. from the div class="index" container */ + } + .IX li { /* list items in an index: compressed vertically */ + margin-top: 0; + } + + .caption {font-weight: bold;} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + .figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: + 1em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .figright {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + + .poem {margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; text-align: left;} + .poem br {display: none;} + .poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + .poem span.i0 {display: block; margin-left: 0em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + .poem span.i2 {display: block; margin-left: 2em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Strand District, by +Sir Walter Besant and Geraldine Edith Mitton + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Strand District + The Fascination of London + +Author: Sir Walter Besant + Geraldine Edith Mitton + +Release Date: May 17, 2008 [EBook #25508] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE STRAND DISTRICT *** + + + + +Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 74px;"> +<img src="images/spine.jpg" width="74" height="600" alt="Spine" title="" /> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 425px;"> +<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="425" height="600" alt="Front Cover" title="" /> +</div></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h1>THE FASCINATION<br /> +OF LONDON<br /> +<br /> +THE STRAND DISTRICT</h1> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h3><i>IN THIS SERIES.</i></h3> + +<p class='center'>Cloth, price 1s. 6d. net; leather, price 2s. net each.</p> + + +<p class='center'><b>THE STRAND DISTRICT.</b></p> + +<p class='center'>By <span class="smcap">Sir Walter Besant</span> and <span class="smcap">G. E. Mitton</span>.</p> + + +<p class='center'><b>WESTMINSTER.</b></p> + +<p class='center'>By <span class="smcap">Sir Walter Besant</span> and <span class="smcap">G. E. Mitton</span>.</p> + + +<p class='center'><b>HAMPSTEAD AND MARYLEBONE.</b></p> + +<p class='center'>By <span class="smcap">G. E. Mitton</span>. Edited by <span class="smcap">Sir Walter Besant</span>.</p> + + +<p class='center'><b>CHELSEA.</b></p> + +<p class='center'>By <span class="smcap">G. E. Mitton</span>. Edited by <span class="smcap">Sir Walter Besant</span>.</p> + + +<p class='center'><b>KENSINGTON.</b></p> + +<p class='center'>By <span class="smcap">G. E. Mitton</span>. Edited by <span class="smcap">Sir Walter Besant</span>.</p> + + +<p class='center'><b>HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY.</b></p> + +<p class='center'>By Sir <span class="smcap">Walter Besant</span> and <span class="smcap">G. E. Mitton</span>.</p> + + +<p class='center'><b>HAMMERSMITH, PUTNEY, AND FULHAM.</b></p> + +<p class='center'>By <span class="smcap">G. E. Mitton</span> and <span class="smcap">J. C. Geikie</span>.</p> + + +<p class='center'><b>MAYFAIR, BELGRAVIA, AND PIMLICO.</b></p> + +<p class='center'><i>In the press.</i></p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 465px;"><a name="frontispiece" id="frontispiece"></a> +<img src="images/frontis.jpg" width="465" height="600" alt="HOLYWELL STREET, STRAND + +(Demolished 1901)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">HOLYWELL STREET, STRAND<br /> + +(<i>Demolished 1901</i>)</span> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 388px;"> +<img src="images/title.jpg" width="388" height="600" alt="The Fascination of London + +THE STRAND DISTRICT + +BY SIR WALTER BESANT AND G. E. MITTON" title="" /> + +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>The Fascination of +London</h2> + +<h1>THE STRAND DISTRICT</h1> + +<p class="center">BY<br /> +<span style="font-size: x-large;">SIR WALTER BESANT</span><br /> +AND<br /> +<span style="font-size: x-large;">G. E. MITTON</span></p> + + +<p class="center">LONDON<br /> +ADAM & CHARLES BLACK<br /> +1903</p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p class='center'><i>Published July, 1902</i></p> + +<p class='center'><i>Reprinted, with corrections, April, 1903</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="PREFATORY_NOTE" id="PREFATORY_NOTE"></a>PREFATORY NOTE</h2> + + +<p>A survey of London, a record of the greatest of all cities, that should +preserve her history, her historical and literary associations, her +mighty buildings, past and present, a book that should comprise all that +Londoners love, all that they ought to know of their heritage from the +past—this was the work on which Sir Walter Besant was engaged when he +died.</p> + +<p>As he himself said of it: "This work fascinates me more than anything +else I've ever done. Nothing at all like it has ever been attempted +before. I've been walking about London for the last thirty years, and I +find something fresh in it every day."</p> + +<p>He had seen one at least of his dreams realized in the People's Palace, +but he was not destined to see this mighty work on London take form. He +died when it was still incomplete. His scheme included several volumes +on the history of London as a whole. These he finished up to the end of +the eighteenth century, and they form a record of the great city +practically unique, and exception<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</a></span>ally interesting, compiled by one who +had the qualities both of novelist and historian, and who knew how to +make the dry bones live. The volume on the eighteenth century, which Sir +Walter called a "very big chapter indeed, and particularly interesting," +will shortly be issued by Messrs. A. and C. Black, who had undertaken +the publication of the Survey.</p> + +<p>Sir Walter's idea was that the next two volumes should be a regular and +systematic perambulation of London by different persons, so that the +history of each parish should be complete in itself. This was a very +original feature in the great scheme, and one in which he took the +keenest interest. Enough has been done of this section to warrant its +issue in the form originally intended, but in the meantime it is +proposed to select some of the most interesting of the districts and +publish them as a series of booklets, attractive alike to the local +inhabitant and the student of London, because much of the interest and +the history of London lie in these street associations. For this purpose +Chelsea, Westminster, the Strand, and Hampstead have been selected for +publication first, and have been revised and brought up to date.</p> + +<p>The difficulty of finding a general title for the series was very great, +for the title desired was one that would express concisely the undying +charm<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[Pg ix]</a></span> of London—that is to say, the continuity of her past history +with the present times. In streets and stones, in names and palaces, her +history is written for those who can read it, and the object of the +series is to bring forward these associations, and to make them plain. +The solution of the difficulty was found in the words of the man who +loved London and planned the great scheme. The work "fascinated" him, +and it was because of these associations that it did so. These links +between past and present in themselves largely constitute The +Fascination of London.</p> + +<p style="text-align: right;"> +G. E. M.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='right' colspan='2'>PAGE</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Prefatory Note</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_vii">vii</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><a href="#PART_I">PART I</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">West and North of Charing Cross</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><a href="#PART_II">PART II</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Piccadilly and St. James's Square</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><a href="#PART_III">PART III</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Strand</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_67">67</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Index</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_112">112</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><i>Map at end of Volume.</i></td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h1>THE STRAND DISTRICT</h1> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="PART_I" id="PART_I"></a>PART I<br /> +<span style="font-size: 75%'">WEST AND NORTH OF CHARING CROSS</span></h2> + + +<p>Beginning at the extreme westerly limit of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, +on the south side of Hyde Park Corner, we find ourselves in the Green +Park. This is a triangular piece of ground, which was formerly called +Little or Upper St. James's Park. It has not much history. In 1642 +fortifications were erected on Constitution Hill, and at the end of the +seventeenth century this same spot was a noted place for duels. +Fireworks on a great scale, with public entertainments, took place in +the park at the Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle, and again in 1814. On +Constitution Hill three attempts were made on the life of Queen +Victoria. The chief object of interest in the park is Buckingham Palace, +which is not altogether in St. Martin's; in fact, the greater part, +including most of the grounds, is in the adjacent parish of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span> St. +George's, Hanover Square. The palace is a dreary building, without any +pretence of architectural merit, but it attracts attention as the London +home of the English Sovereign.</p> + +<p>It stands on the site of Arlington House, so called from its connection +with Henry Bennet, Earl of Arlington (the Earl whose initial supplied +one of the <i>a's</i> in the word "Cabal"). John Sheffield, Duke of +Buckingham, bought the house and rebuilt it in 1703, naming it after +himself, and including in the grounds part of the land belonging to Tart +Hall, which stood at the head of St. James's Street, and has been +mentioned in the account of the adjoining parish of St. Margaret's, +Westminster. Buckingham House was bought from Sir Charles Sheffield, son +of the above-mentioned Duke, by the Crown in 1762. In 1775 it was +granted to Queen Charlotte as a place of residence in lieu of Somerset +House, and at this period it was known as Queen's House. George IV. +employed Nash to renovate the building, and the restoration was so +complete as to amount to an entire rebuilding, in the style considered +then fashionable; the result is the present dreary building with +stuccoed frontage. The interior is handsome enough, and, like that of +many a London house of less importance, is considerably more cheerful +than the exterior. The chief staircase is of white marble, and the rooms +are richly decorated. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span> state apartments include drawing-rooms, +saloons, and the throne-room, which is sixty-four feet in length. The +picture-gallery contains a collection of pictures made by George IV., +chiefly of the Dutch school; it includes works of Rembrandt, Rubens, +Vandyck, Dürer, Cuyp, Ruysdael, Vandervelde, and others.</p> + +<p>The grounds are about forty acres in extent, and contain a large piece +of ornamental water, on the shore of which is a pavilion, or +summer-house, with frescoes by Eastlake, Maclise, Landseer, Dyce, and +others, illustrating Milton's "Comus." The channel of the Tyburn, now a +sewer, passes under the palace. The Marble Arch, at the north-east +corner of Hyde Park, was first designed to face the palace, where it +stood until 1850.</p> + +<p>The palace is partly on the site of the well-known Mulberry Gardens, a +place of entertainment in the seventeenth century. These gardens +originated in an order of James I., who wished to encourage the rearing +of silkworms in England. This project, like many others of the same +King, proved a failure, and the gardens were turned into a place of +public recreation. The frequenters were of the fashionable classes, and +came in the evening to sit in small arbours, and "be regaled with +cheesecakes, syllabubs, and wine sweetened with sugar." In this form the +place was extremely popular, and is often mentioned in contemporary<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span> +literature. Dryden came there to eat tarts with "Mrs." Anne Reeve, and +doubtless Evelyn and Pepys often strolled about in the gay crowd, a +crowd much gayer than it would now be—in the matter of costume, at all +events. The scene of "The Mulberry Gardens," a play by Sir Charles +Sedley (1668) is laid here.</p> + +<p>Stafford House, not far from St. James's Palace, and overlooking the +Green Park, is now tenanted by the Duke of Sutherland. It was originally +built for the Duke of York, brother to George IV., but he died before +its completion. It stands on the site of an older building, called +Godolphin House, and also occupies the site of the Queen's Library +formed by Caroline, wife of George IV.</p> + +<p>St. James's Palace is divided into many sets of apartments and suites of +rooms, and in this way resembles more the ancient than the modern idea +of a palace. On its site once stood a hospital for fourteen leprous +women, which was founded, as Stow quaintly says, "long before the time +of any man's memory." Maitland says the hospital must have been standing +before 1100 <span class="lowercase smcap">A.D.</span>, as it was then visited by the Abbot of Westminster. +Eight brethren were subsequently added to the institution. Several +benevolent bequests of land were made to it from time to time. In 1450 +the custody of the hospital was granted perpetually to Eton College by +Henry VI. In 1531 Henry VIII.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span> obtained some of the neighbouring land +from the Abbey of Westminster, and in the following year he took the +hospital also, giving lands in Suffolk in exchange for it. There is +reason to believe that he pensioned off the ejected inmates. At any +rate, having demolished the House of Mercy, he proceeded to build for +himself a palace, which is supposed to have been planned by Holbein, +under the direction of Cromwell, Earl of Essex. Henry VIII. was too much +occupied in taking possession of Wolsey's palaces to bestow very much of +his time on his own new building, though he occasionally resided here +before he acquired Whitehall. Edward VI. did not live at St James's +Palace regularly, but Queen Mary patronized it, preferring it to +Whitehall. It was granted to Prince Henry during the reign of James I., +and Charles I. spent the last three days before his execution here. The +Prince known as the "Pretender" was born in one of the palace +apartments, and many historians have commented on the fact that this +chamber was conveniently near a small back-staircase, up which a +new-born infant could have been smuggled. During the reign of King +William the palace was fitted up as a residence for Prince George of +Denmark and Princess Anne. When the Princess ascended the throne, the +palace became the regular residence of the Court, which it continued to +be until the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> accession of Queen Victoria, who preferred Buckingham +Palace.</p> + +<p>The only parts remaining of King Henry's building are the gatehouse, +some turrets, a mantelpiece in the presence chamber, which bears the +initials H. and A. (Henry and Anne Boleyn) with a true lovers' knot, the +Chapel Royal (which has, of course, been renovated), and the +tapestry-room. Levées are still held at the palace.</p> + +<p>On the west of the gatehouse a series of apartments were being prepared +for the Duke of Clarence at the time of his death, and were afterwards +assigned to the present Prince and Princess of Wales. At the west end is +Clarence House, in the occupation of the Duke of Connaught. This was +occupied by the King of Prussia and his sons on their visit to England +in 1814. The Duchess of Kent resided here until 1861.</p> + +<p>The Lord Chamberlain's offices and residence, and also the official +residence of the Keeper of the Privy Purse, are among the official +chambers in the palace. There are minor offices also, those of the Clerk +of the Works, and the Gentlemen of the Wine Cellar; there are state +apartments and the quarters of the Gentlemen at Arms and the Yeomen of +the Guard. There are several courts in the palace, namely, the +Ambassadors' Court, Engine Court, Friary Court, and Colour Court. There +have been various chapels connected with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> the palace, but the only two +of importance are the Chapel Royal and German Chapel, which still +remain.</p> + +<p>The Chapel Royal is supposed to be on the site of the chapel of the +ancient hospital, and various Norman remains dug up in the course of +repairs favour this supposition. The roof is beautifully decorated in +panels by Holbein; the date of its completion is supposed to be 1540. +Prince George and Princess Anne; Frederick, Prince of Wales; George IV.; +Queen Victoria; and the Empress Frederick, were all married in this +Chapel.</p> + +<p>The German Chapel was founded in 1700 by Princess Anne; service was held +in it once on Sundays up to the present reign, but has now been +discontinued.</p> + +<p>Just opposite to the palace is Marlborough House, the residence of the +Prince and Princess of Wales. The house was built in 1709 at the public +expense, as a national compliment to the Duke of Marlborough. Sir +Christopher Wren was the architect. After the death of the third Duke it +was sublet to Leopold, subsequently King of the Belgians. Queen Adelaide +lived in it after the death of King William IV. The building was +afterwards used as a gallery for the pictures known as the Vernon +Collection. But in 1850 it was settled on King Edward VII., then Prince +of Wales, when he should attain his eighteenth year,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> which he did nine +years later. The interior is decorated with beautiful mural paintings +executed by La Guerre; many of these represent the battles of the famous +Duke of Marlborough. On the removal of the King to Buckingham Palace the +present Prince of Wales comes in his turn to Marlborough House.</p> + +<p>Carlton House Terrace owes its name to Carlton House, built by Henry +Boyle, Baron Carlton, in Queen Anne's reign. It was afterwards sold to +Frederick, Prince of Wales, and was occupied subsequently by George IV. +before he succeeded to the throne. J. T. Smith says: "Many a saturnalia +did those walls witness in the days of his hot youth." Princess +Charlotte was born here. In 1811 the ceremony of conferring the regency +upon Prince George was enacted at Carlton House, and in the June +following the Prince gave a magnificent supper to 2,000 guests. In 1827 +the house was pulled down. It stood right across the end of the present +Waterloo Place, where now a flight of steps lead into the park. At the +head of the steps is the York Column of granite, 124 feet high, designed +by Wyatt, and surmounted by a figure of the Duke of York, son of George +III.</p> + +<p>One of the sights of London in the seventeenth century, was the garden +which lay between St. James's Park and Charing Cross, called Spring +Gardens. The place was laid out as a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> bowling-green; it had also butts, +a bathing-pond, a spring made to scatter water all around by turning a +wheel. There was also an ordinary, which charged 6s. for a dinner—then +an enormous price—and a tavern where drinking of wine was carried on +all day long. In the "Character of England," 1659, attributed to Evelyn, +the following account of Spring Gardens is found:</p> + +<p>"The manner is as the company returned [from Hyde Park] to alight at the +Spring Gardens so called, in order to the Parke, as our Thuilleries is +to the Course; the inclosure not disagreeable, for the solemness of the +grove is broken by the warbling of the birds, as it opens into the +spacious walks at St. James's; but the company walk in it at such a +rate, you would think that all the ladies were so many Atalantas +contending with their wooers.... But fast as they run they stay there so +long as if they wanted not time to finish the race; for it is usual here +to find some of the young company till midnight; and the thickets of the +garden seem to be contrived to all advantages of gallantry; after they +have been refreshed with the collation, which is here seldom omitted, at +a certain cabaret, in the middle of this paradise, where the forbidden +fruits are certain trifling tarts, neats' tongues, salacious meats, and +bad Rhenish; for which the gallants pay sauce, as indeed they do at all +such houses throughout England."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span></p> + +<p>After the Restoration the gardens were built over. Prince Rupert lived +here 1674-1682. Colley Cibber, actor and prolific dramatist, had a house +"near Bull's Head Tavern in Spring Gardens, 1711-14"; Sir Philip Warwick +and George Canning were also among the residents.</p> + +<p>"Locket's ordinary, a house of entertainment much frequented by gentry," +was on the site of Drummond's Bank:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Come, at a crown ahead ourselves we'll treat:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Champagne our liquor, and ragouts our meat;<br /></span> +<span class="i0"> * * * * *</span> +<span class="i0">With evening wheels we'll drive about the Park,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Finish at Locket's, and reel home i' the dark."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Vague rumour assigns an earlier house to Cromwell on the same spot. The +bank was established about 1712 by Mr. Andrew Drummond, a goldsmith. +George III. transferred his account from Coutts' to Drummond's when he +was displeased with the former firm, and he desired Messrs. Drummond to +make no advances to Frederick, Prince of Wales, who also had an account +here. This order was obeyed, with the consequences that in the +succeeding reign the royal account was transferred again to Messrs. +Coutts. The County Council offices are at present a very noticeable +feature in Spring Gardens, and the aspect of the place is no longer +rural.</p> + +<p>The part of Whitehall included in St. Martin's<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> parish is not very +large, yet it is of some importance. On the west side is Old Scotland +Yard, for long associated with the headquarters of the Metropolitan +Police, now removed to New Scotland Yard. Stow says:</p> + +<p>"On the left hand from Charing Cross are also divers tenements lately +built till ye come to a large plot of ground inclosed with brick, and is +called Scotland, where great buildings have been for receipt of the +Kings of Scotland and other estates of that country, for Margaret Queen +of Scots and sister to King Henry VIII. had her abiding here when she +came to England after the death of her husband, as the Kings of Scotland +had in former times when they came to the Parliament of England."</p> + +<p>Here for some time was the official residence of the Surveyor of Works +to the Crown, and Inigo Jones and Sir Christopher Wren were both +occupants. Sir J. Vanbrugh also resided at Scotland Yard, and as +Secretary to the Council Milton had an official residence here before he +went to Petty France, as described in the book on Westminster in the +same series.</p> + +<p>Craig's or Cragg's Court, in which is the Royal Almonry office, is shown +in old maps. Strype speaks of it as a "very handsome large Court, with +new buildings fit for gentry of Repute." It was built in 1702, and is +supposed to have been<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> called after the father of Secretary Craggs, who +was a friend of Pope and Addison. Woodfall, the publisher, had a West +End office in the court, and Romney the painter lived there. There is a +fine old Queen Anne house still standing at the back of the court.</p> + +<p>Opposite Scotland Yard is the Admiralty, built round a courtyard, and +hidden by a stone screen surmounted by sea-horses. The screen was the +work of the brothers Adam, and was put up to hide a building which even +the taste of George III.'s reign declared to be insufferable. This had +been built for the Admiralty in 1726, and replaced old Wallingford +House, so called from its first owner, Viscount Wallingford, who built +it in the reign of James I. George Villiers, the well-known Duke of +Buckingham, bought the house, and used it until his death. Archbishop +Usher saw the execution of Charles I. from the roof, and swooned with +horror at the sight. The house was occupied by Cromwell's son-in-law, +General Fleetwood, and in 1680 became Government property. In one of the +large rooms the body of Nelson lay in state before his national funeral.</p> + +<p>St. Catherine's Hermitage, Charing Cross, stood somewhere near Charing +Cross. It is believed to have been about the position of the +post-office. It belonged to the See of Llandaff, and was occasionally +used as a lodging by such Bishops of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> that See as came to attend the +Court and had no town-house.</p> + +<p>St. Mary Rounceval, on the site of Northumberland House, was founded by +William Marischal, Earl of Pembroke, in Henry III.'s reign. The Earl +gave several tenements to the Prior of Rounceval, in Navarre, who +established here the chief house of the priory in England. The hospital +was finally suppressed by Edward VI. The little village of Charing then +stood between London and Westminster. It formed part of the great +demesne belonging to the Abbey of Westminster, and was inhabited chiefly +by Thames fishermen, who had a settlement on the bank, and by the +farmers of the Westminster estates. The derivation of the name from <i>La +Chère Reine</i> is purely fanciful.</p> + +<p>There is certainly no part of London which has been so much changed as +Charing Cross. In other parts the houses are changed, but the streets +remain. Here the whole disposition of the streets has been transformed. +The secondary part of the name recalls the beautiful cross, the last of +the nine which marked the places where Queen Eleanor's coffin rested on +its journey from Lincolnshire to Westminster Abbey. The cross was +destroyed by the fanatical zeal of the Reformers. The equestrian statue +of Charles I., cast in 1633 by Le Sœur, occupies the site of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> +cross. It had not been set up when the Civil War broke out, and was sold +by the Parliament to John Rivit, a brazier, who lived by the Holborn +Conduit, on condition that it should be broken up. John Rivit, however, +buried the statue, and dug it up again after the Restoration. It was not +until 1674 that it was actually erected, on a new pedestal made by +Grinling Gibbons, in the place which it now occupies, which is the site +of the old cross, the place where the regicides were executed, and where +the Charing Cross pillory stood. It is curious to remark on the +preservation of the site of the cross. It was apparently railed in; some +of the stones of which it was made were used in paving Whitehall. +Ballads were written on its destruction:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Undone, undone, the lawyers are;<br /></span> +<span class="i2">They wander about the towne,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Nor can find the way to Westminster<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Now Charing Cross is downe.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">At the end of the Strand they make a stand,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Swearing they are at a loss,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And chaffing say that's not the way,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">They must go by Charing Cross."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p style="margin-left: 18em;"> +<span class="smcap">Cunningham.</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>Many of the regicides were executed at this spot in Charles II.'s reign, +within sight of the place where they had murdered their King. These men, +according to the brutal temper of the times, were cut down when half +hanged and disem<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span>bowelled before a great concourse of people. Pepys +mentions going to the executions as to a show. Later the pillory stood +here in which, among others, Titus Oates suffered. But, besides these +dismal reminiscences, Charing Cross was at one time famed for its +taverns and festive places of amusement, and was the resort of wits and +literati in the eighteenth century. Dr. Johnson speaks of the "full tide +of human existence" being at Charing Cross, and if he could see it now +he might be confirmed in his opinion.</p> + +<p>At the top of the present Northumberland Avenue stood formerly +Northumberland House, the last of the Strand palaces to be destroyed, +and until its destruction the chief glory and ornament of the street and +Charing Cross. It was never an episcopal palace, having been built in +1605 by the Earl of Northampton; from him it went to the Earl of +Suffolk, and was called for a time Suffolk House; in 1642 it fell into +the hands of the Earl of Northumberland, and by marriage into those of +the Duke of Somerset until 1749, when the daughter of the Duke of +Somerset succeeded, and by her marriage with Sir Hugh Smithson the house +became the property of this family, now Dukes of Northumberland, until +its compulsory sale in the year 1874. The house originally consisted of +three sides of a quadrangle, the fourth side lying open with gardens +stretching<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> down to the river. The front was wrongly attributed to Inigo +Jones. The house had been repaired or rebuilt in many places, so that +there was not much that was ancient left in its later days. By the side +of Northumberland House formerly ran Hartshorn Lane, now entirely +obliterated. Ben Jonson was born here, and lived here in his childhood.</p> + +<p>Trafalgar Square was built over the site of what was formerly the Royal +Mews, a building of very ancient foundation; and a rookery of obscure +and ill-famed lanes and alleys on the west and north of St. Martin's +Church, popularly known as the Bermudas, and afterwards the Caribbean +Islands. In the midst of the mews stood a small and remarkable building +called Queen Elizabeth's Bath. It is almost impossible to estimate the +difference between the then and the now, in regard to this particular +part. St. Martin's Lane continued right up to Northumberland House, +where the lion of the proud Percies stiffened his tail on the parapet. +The house stood across the present head of Northumberland Avenue. The +Royal Mews themselves were where the fountains now splash, and on the +further side of them was Hedge Lane.</p> + +<p>Pennant says the Mews was so called from having been used for the King's +falcons—at least, from the time of Richard III. to Henry VIII. In the +latter King's reign the royal horses were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> stabled here, but the name +Mews was retained, and has come to be applied to any town range of +stabling. The mews were removed to make way for the National Gallery +about 1834. Geoffrey Chaucer, the poet, was Clerk of the King's Works, +and of the Mews at Charing about the end of Richard II.'s reign. During +the Commonwealth Colonel Joyce was imprisoned in the Mews by order of +Oliver Cromwell.</p> + +<p>It is supposed that we are indebted to William IV. for the idea of a +square to be called Trafalgar in honour of Nelson, and to contain some +worthy memorial of the hero. The total height of the monument, designed +by Railton, is 193 feet, and its design is from that of one of the +columns of the Temple of Mars at Rome. The statue, which looks so small +from the ground, is really 17 feet high, nearly three times the height +of a man; it was the work of E. H. Baily, R.A. The pedestal has bronze +bas-reliefs on its four sides, representing the four greatest of +Nelson's battles, Trafalgar, St. Vincent, Aboukir, and Copenhagen. The +massive lions on the extended pedestal were designed by Sir Edwin +Landseer.</p> + +<p>Of the other statues, that of George IV. is by Sir Francis Chantrey, and +was originally intended for the top of the Marble Arch, and that of +General Gordon was designed by Hamo Thorneycroft. Bronze blocks let into +the north wall of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> the square contain the measures of the secondary +standards of length, and were inserted here in 1876 by the Standards +Department of the Board of Trade. The Union Club and College of +Physicians are on the west side of the square. The latter was founded by +Dr. Linacre, physician to King Henry VIII.</p> + +<p>The National Gallery was not designed as it now stands, but grew +gradually. The idea of a collection of national pictures began in 1824, +when the Angerstein Collection of thirty-eight pictures was purchased. +The building began in 1832, and was opened six years later, but there +were then only six rooms devoted to the national collection, the +remainder being used by the Royal Academy of Arts. The Academy, however, +betook itself to Burlington House in 1869, and subsequently the National +Gallery was enlarged, and is now well worthy of its name. The English +are taunted with not being an artistic nation; this may be, but they +recognise merit when they see it, and the national collection need fear +comparison with no other in the world. The sections of the gallery +include Italian schools, schools of the Netherlands and Germany, +Spanish, French, and British schools; in the last named the Turner +Collection claims two rooms.</p> + +<p>St. Martin's Church was founded by Henry VIII., who disliked to see the +funerals of the inhabi<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span>tants passing through Whitehall on their way to +St. Margaret's, Westminster, but there had probably been an +ecclesiastical building on or near this site from a very early date. In +1222 there was a controversy between the Bishop of London and the Dean +and Chapter of St. Paul's on the one hand and the Abbot and Canons of +Westminster on the other, as to the exemption of the chapel and convent +of the latter from the jurisdiction of the former. The matter was +settled in favour of Westminster. It is probable that this chapel was +for the use of the monks when they visited their convent garden.</p> + +<p>In 1721 the old church was pulled down, and a new one built from the +designs of Gibbs the architect, whose bust stands in the building near +the entrance. A rate was levied on the parish for expenses, but money +poured in so liberally that a gift of £500 toward the enrichment of the +altar was declined.</p> + +<p>The building has been derided, but it has the merit of a bold +conception. Ralph in "Publick Buildings" says: "The portico is at once +elegant and august, and the steeple above it ought to be considered one +of the most tolerable in town. The east end is remarkably elegant, and +very justly challenges a particular applause; in short, if there is +anything wanting in this fabric, it is a little more elevation."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span></p> + +<p>The only original features in the interior are the two royal pews, not +now used, which look down on the altar. St. Martin's is the royal +parish, including in its boundaries Buckingham Palace and St. James's, +but the births of the Royal Family are not registered here, as has been +frequently stated. There is no monument in the church of any intrinsic +interest, and the only other noticeable details are two beautiful mosaic +panels on either side of the chancel, put up by Lady Frederick Cavendish +to the memory of her husband.</p> + +<p>Among the names of those buried in the old church is that of Vansomer, a +portrait-painter. Nell Gwynne, Roubiliac, and Jack Sheppard—whose first +theft took place at Rummer's Tavern, near Charing Cross—lie in the +burial-ground. There is a large crypt, with vaulted roof, below the +church, and here are several monuments from the old building, and also +the ancient whipping-post.</p> + +<p>Before the erection of the palaces along the riverside the fishermen of +the Thames lived beside the river bank at Charing Cross. A piece of +ground in the churchyard of St. Martin's was set apart for their use and +kept separate. Meantime, as one after the other of the Bishops' +town-houses were built, the fishermen found themselves pushed farther up +the river, until finally they were fairly driven away, and established +themselves at<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> Lambeth, where the last of them lived in the early part +of the nineteenth century. Their burial-ground, meantime, was preserved +even after they had disappeared. The churchyard of St. Martin's was +curtailed in 1826, and the parish burial-ground removed to Pratt Street, +Camden Town.</p> + +<p>Behind the National Gallery is the National Portrait Gallery, opened in +1896, and opposite to it St. Martin's Town Hall, with the parish +emblem—St. Martin dividing his cloak with a beggar—in bas-relief on +the frontage.</p> + +<p>Charing Cross Road is very modern. It was opened in 1887, and swept over +a number of narrow courts and alleys.</p> + +<p>For St. Martin's Lane, see p. <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</p> + +<p>In this is the Public Library, where some watercolours and old prints of +vanished houses are hung on the staircase. There is also the +eighteenth-century plan from Strype's Survey, well worth studying.</p> + +<p>Leicester Square, at first known as Leicester Fields, is associated with +the Sidneys, Earls of Leicester, who had a town-house on the north side, +where the Empire Music-hall is now. This was a large brick building, +with a courtyard before it and a Dutch garden at the back. During the +reign of Charles I. and in the time of the Commonwealth the Sidneys +tenanted it, but later it was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> occupied by foreign Ambassadors. +Elizabeth, Queen of Bohemia, took it in 1662, and afterwards it was +aptly described by Pennant as "the pouting-place of Princes"; for +George, son of George I., established here a rival Court when he had +quarrelled with his father, and his son Frederick, the Prince of Wales, +did precisely the same thing. During the latter tenancy a large building +adjoining, called Savile or Ailesbury House, was amalgamated with +Leicester House. George III. was living here when hailed King. Savile +House stood until the Gordon Riots, when it was completely stripped and +gutted by the rioters. The square was presented to the public in 1874 by +Baron Albert Grant, M.P. The gift is recorded on the pedestal of the +statue of Shakespeare standing in the centre.</p> + +<p>The square was for long a favourite place for duels. A line drawn +diagonally from the north-east to the south-west corner roughly +indicates the boundary of St Martin's parish, the upper half of the +square being in St. Anne's, Soho.</p> + +<p>The associations of this part are numerous and very interesting. The +busts of the four men standing in the corners of the centre garden have +all some local connection. They are those of Hogarth, Sir Joshua +Reynolds, Sir Isaac Newton, and John Hunter. Hogarth's house was on the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> +east, on the site of Tenison's School, and next to it was that of John +Hunter, the famous surgeon. Sir Joshua Reynolds bought No. 47 on the +west side in 1760, and lived in it until his death. Sir Isaac Newton +lived in the little street off the south side of the square, at the back +of the big new Dental Hospital. His house is still standing, and bears a +tablet of the Society of Arts. It is quite unpretentious—a +stucco-covered building with little dormer-windows in the roof. The +great scientist came here in 1710, when he was nearly sixty, and his +fame was then world-wide. Men from all parts of Europe sought the dull +little street in order to converse with one whose power had wrought a +revolution in the methods of scientific thought. In the same house Miss +Burney afterwards lived with her father. Sir Thomas Lawrence took +apartments at No. 4, Leicester Square, in 1786, when only seventeen, but +he had already begun to exhibit at the Royal Academy. The square was for +long a favourite place of residence with foreigners, and has not even +yet lost a slightly un-English aspect.</p> + +<p>Archbishop Tenison's School is at the south-east corner of the square. +Its founder, who was successively Bishop of Lincoln and Archbishop of +Canterbury, intended that it should counterbalance a flourishing Roman +Catholic school in the Savoy precincts. Among old boys may be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> mentioned +Postlethwaite, afterwards Master of St. Paul's; Charles Mathews, when +very young; Horne Tooke a former Lord Mayor of London; and Liston who +was for a time usher.</p> + +<p>As stated above, the northern half of the square is in the parish of St. +Anne's, Soho, a parish now tenanted to a very large extent by +foreigners, chiefly French and Italians. Shaftesbury Avenue, running +diagonally through the parish, is of very recent origin.</p> + +<p>Soho has been derived from the watchword of Monmouth at Sedgemoor, +because the Duke had a house in Soho, then King's Square. It is much +more likely that the reverse is the case, and the Duke took the +watchword from the locality in which he lived, for the word Soho occurs +in the rate-books long before the Battle of Sedgemoor was fought. In +1634 So-howe appears in State papers; and various other spellings are +extant, as Soe-hoe, So-hoe. This district was at one time a favourite +hunting-ground, and Halliwell-Phillipps in the "Dictionary of Archaic +and Provincial Words" suggests that the name has arisen from a favourite +hunting cry, "So-ho!"</p> + +<p>The parish was first made independent of St. Martin's in 1678. Soho has +always been a favourite locality with foreigners. There were three +distinct waves of emigration which flooded over it: first after the +revocation of the Edict of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> Nantes in 1635; then in 1798, during the +Reign of Terror; and thirdly in 1871, when many Communists who had +escaped from Paris found their way to England. At the present time half +the population of the parish consists of foreigners, of which French and +Italians preponderate, but Swiss, Germans, and specimens of various +other nationalities, are frequently to be met with in the streets.</p> + +<p>The parish church of St. Anne's was so named "after the mother of the +Virgin Mary and in compliment to Princess Anne." The site was a piece of +ground known as Kemp's Field, and the architect selected was Sir +Christopher Wren. The building is in all respects like others of its +period, but has a curious spire added later. This has been described as +"two hogsheads placed crosswise, in the ends of which are the dials of +the clock," and above is a kind of pyramid, ending in a vane.</p> + +<p>The old churchyard lies above the level of the street, and has been +turned into a public garden. Facing the principal entrance in Wardour +Street is a stone monument to King Theodore of Corsica, and a small +crown on the stone marks his rank. King Theodore died in this parish +December 11, 1756, immediately after leaving the King's Bench Prison, by +the benefit of the Act of Insolvency, in consequence of which he +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span>registered his kingdom of Corsica for the use of his creditors.</p> + +<p>His epitaph was written by Horace Walpole:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"The grave, great teacher, to a level brings<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Heroes and beggars, galley slaves and kings.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But Theodore this moral learned ere dead:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Fate poured its lessons on his living head,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Bestowed a kingdom, but denied him bread."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Close by is a monument to the essayist Hazlitt, born 1778, died 1830. +The inscription says that he lived to see his deepest wishes gratified +as he expressed them in his essay on the "Fear of Death," and proceeds +to set forth at considerable length the tenor of those wishes.</p> + +<p>During the dinner-hour, when the weather is fine, the graveyard seats +are filled by the very poorest of the poor, many of them aliens, far +from their own country, and sad beneath the gray skies of the land that +gives them bread, but denies them sun.</p> + +<p>In the registers are recorded the baptisms of two of the children of +George II., and five of the children of Frederick, Prince of Wales, born +at Leicester House, in this parish.</p> + +<p>Wardour Street has long been celebrated for its shops of old china, +bric-à-brac, and furniture. It can claim Flaxman among its bygone +residents.</p> + +<p>Dean Street is a long and narrow thoroughfare, a favourite residence +with artists at the end<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> of the eighteenth century; the names of Hayman, +Baily, Ward, and Belines are all to be found here in association. Sir +James Thornhill lived at No. 75, where there are the remains of some +curious staircase paintings by him, in the composition of which he is +said to have been assisted by his son-in-law, Hogarth. Turner, the +father of the great painter, was a hairdresser in Dean Street, and +Nollekens' father died in No. 28. In the house adjoining the Royalty +Theatre Madame Vestris was born.</p> + +<p>Frith Street in old maps is marked "Thrift Street," a name by no means +inappropriate at the present time. It also has its associations, and can +claim the birth of Sir Samuel Romilly, the great law reformer, who lived +until the early part of the nineteenth century, and whose father was a +jeweller here; the early boyhood of Mozart, and the death of Hazlitt, +which took place in furnished lodgings. The failure of his publishers +had made him short of money; he was harassed by pecuniary cares, yet his +last words were: "I've had a happy life."</p> + +<p>The following advertisement bearing date March 8, 1765, is worth +quotation: "Mr. Mozart, the father of the celebrated Young Musical +Family who have so justly raised the Admiration of the greatest +musicians of Europe, proposes to give the Public an opportunity of +hearing these<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> young Prodigies perform both in public and private, by +giving on the 13th of this month a concert which will be chiefly +conducted by his Son, a boy of eight years of age, with all the +overtures of his own composition. Tickets may be had at 5s. each at Mr. +Mozart's, or at Mr. Williamson's in Thrift Street, Soho, where Ladies +and Gentlemen will find the Family at Home every day in the week from 12 +to 2 o'clock and have an opportunity of putting his talents to a more +particular proof by giving him anything to play at sight or any Music +without a Bass, which he will write upon the spot without recurring to +his harpsichord."</p> + +<p>In this street there are many interesting relics of bygone splendour. +No. 9—now to let—has a splendid well staircase with spiral balusters. +The walls and ceiling of this are lined with oil-paintings of figures +larger than life. These have unfortunately been somewhat knocked about +during successive tenancies, but clearly show that the house was one of +considerable importance in past times. It was in lodgings in this street +that Mrs. Inchbald wrote her "Simple Story," published 1791, in four +volumes, which was an immediate success. She was an actress as well as +an author, and a friend of the Kembles. Her dramatic writings were very +many.</p> + +<p>At No. 13, Greek Street were Wedgwood's<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> exhibition-rooms. In No. 27 De +Quincey used to sleep on the floor by permission of Brumel, the +money-lender's attorney.</p> + +<p>On the other side of Shaftesbury Avenue, and parallel with it, is +Gerrard Street, a dingy, unpretending place, but thick with memories and +associations. It was built about 1681, and was called after Gerard, Earl +of Macclesfield. Wheatley quotes from the Bagford MSS. of the British +Museum to the effect that "Henry, Prince of Wales, son of James I., +caused a piece of ground near Leicester Fields to be walled in for the +exercise of arms. Here he built a house, which was standing at the +Restoration. It afterwards fell into the hands of Lord Gerard, who let +the ground out to build upon." Hatton speaks of "Macclesfield House, +alias Gerrard House, a well-built structure situate in Gerrard Street +... now (1708) in possession of Lord Mohun." Dryden lived in Gerrard +Street in a house on the site of one marked by a tablet of the Society +of Arts. He died here, and his funeral was interrupted by a drunken +frolic of Mohocks headed by Lord Jeffreys. Close by is an hotel, where +once Edmund Burke resided; opposite to him J. T. Smith lodged, as he +tells us in "Nollekens and his Times," and he could look into Burke's +rooms when they were lighted, and see the patient student at work until +the small hours<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> of the morning. Charles Kemble and his family also +resided in this street.</p> + +<p>On the site of the Westminster General Dispensary was a tavern named the +Turk's Head, where the well-known literary club had its origin. The +members were at first twelve in number, including Sir Joshua Reynolds, +Dr. Johnson, Edmund Burke, Dr. Nugent, Topham Beauclerk, Mr. Langton, +Dr. Goldsmith, and Sir J. Hawkins. In 1772 the number of the members was +increased to twenty, and instead of meeting weekly, on Mondays, for a +supper, they met every fortnight, on a Friday, and dined together. David +Hume was here in 1758, and the actor Edmund Kean passed most of his +boyhood in this street, sheltered by a couple who had adopted him when +his mother deserted him in Frith Street. All his early boyhood is +associated with this neighbourhood; he was found in Frith Street, and +his schools were in Orange Court, Leicester Square, and Chapel Street, +Soho. The dispensary is in itself interesting, being one of the very +oldest institutions of the kind, established in 1774.</p> + +<p>Charing Cross Road follows very nearly the course of the old Hog Lane, +later Crown Street, which bounded the parish on the east. St. Mary the +Virgin's Church is on the west side, and the building has had many +vicissitudes. In 1677 it was erected by the Greek congregation in Soho, +and had the distinction of being the first church<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> of that community in +England. It was afterwards used by a French Protestant community, and +then by a body of Dissenters. In 1849 it stood in imminent peril of +being turned into a dancing-saloon, but was rescued and became Church of +England.</p> + +<p>The very centre and nucleus of the parish has always been Soho Square, +which was built in the reign of Charles II., and was at first called +King Square—not in compliment to the monarch, but after a man named +Gregory King, who was associated with the earliest buildings. It is a +place of singular attractiveness, an oasis in a desert; many of the +houses are picturesque. The square garden is not large, but it is +planted with fine trees. From the very beginning the square was an +aristocratic locality, and the houses tenanted by the nobility; the most +important of these, Monmouth House, occupied the whole of the southern +side. This was architecturally a very extraordinary building, and the +interior was very magnificent. "The principal room on the ground-floor +was a dining-room, the carved and gilt panels of which contained +whole-length pictures. The principal room on the first-floor was lined +with blue satin superbly decorated with pheasants and other birds in +gold. The chimneypiece was richly ornamented with fruit and foliage; in +the centre, within a wreath of dark leaves, was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> a circular recess for a +bust" ("Nollekens and his Times").</p> + +<p>The Duke of Monmouth obtained the site for this house in 1681, but he +did not long enjoy his possession, for four years later he suffered the +penalty of his pretensions and was executed. The house was later +occupied by successive French Ambassadors; it was demolished in 1773. +The houses at present standing at the south end of the square must have +been built immediately after the destruction of Monmouth House, and +possibly the materials of the older building were used in their +construction. The Hospital for Women shows some traces of former +grandeur in panelled rooms and decorative cornices. The hospital was +only established in these quarters in 1851, so the house may have had +fashionable tenants before.</p> + +<p>On the same side is the Rectory House, which was probably built directly +after the demolition of Monmouth House in 1773. Here there are to be +found all the characteristics of an eighteenth-century building, +including a decorative ceiling by Flaxman. In the south-west corner of +the square there is the house in which is now the Hospital for Diseases +of the Heart and Paralysis. This was at one time the headquarters of the +Linnæan Society, before its removal to Burlington House. It contains +some beautiful ceilings and cornices, and one room, now a female ward, +is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> worthy of special notice. A very lofty arched ceiling of rather +unusual construction is beautifully decorated, and the overmantel and +fireplace are exquisite.</p> + +<p>In the opposite or south-east corner of the square is the House of +Charity. This was formerly the residence of Alderman Beckford, twice +Lord Mayor of London in George III.'s reign, who was credited with being +the only man of his day who dared tell the King the truth to his face. +His son was the author of "Vathek." The house is now a house of mercy, +for the assistance of orphans, homeless girls, and all who, through no +fault of their own, find themselves without a roof to shelter them or +work to do. The charity is Church of England, and under the direction of +a Warden and Council. The fine decorative wooden overmantels and +doorways still remain, and the joints and edges of the panels are all +carved, which gives a very handsome appearance to some of the rooms. The +council-room ceiling is a large oval with the figures of four cherubic +boys in relief, carrying respectively flowers, a bird, fire, and water, +to represent the four elements.</p> + +<p>One of the former famous houses in the square was Carlisle House. The +walls were of red brick, and the date on the cisterns 1669, the date of +the creation of the earldom of Carlisle. In its later days the house +became notorious from its connec<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span>tion with Mrs. Cornelys, the daughter +of an actor, who was born at Venice in 1723, and who, after a tarnished +career in various Continental towns as a public singer, came to the +King's Theatre, London, to take part in one of Gluck's operas. She took +possession of Carlisle House, and projected a series of society +entertainments, which proved a marvellous success. The square was +blocked with the coaches and chairs of her patrons. In Taylor's "Records +of my Life" it is stated she had as many as 600 persons in her saloon at +one time, at two guineas per head. Foreign Ministers, many of the +nobility, scions of royalty, flocked to her rooms. She spent profusely +and lavishly. The decorations were superb, the entertainments +magnificent, in the ceremonious and rather affected style of the period. +In 1770 she was at the climax of prosperity. "Galas, masquerades, and +festivals, all equally splendid, succeeded one another throughout the +season" (Clinch); but after her sky-rocket ascent came the fall: fickle +Fashion deserted her, and finally the house and its contents were +announced in the <i>Gazette</i> for sale. The Pantheon had proved too +formidable a rival. In 1785 the property was in Chancery, and Mrs. +Cornelys died in the Fleet Prison in 1797. The banqueting-hall in Sutton +Street, attached to Carlisle House by a covered way, was converted into +the Chapel of St. Patrick,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> and where masqueraders had revelled priests +heard confession. This also eventually disappeared, to make way for the +present church, which is such a feature of the square; it stands at the +corner of Sutton Street, and bears the name of its predecessor. It was +opened 1893, and its campanile reaches a height of 125 feet. Within the +porch is a beautiful marble group of the dead Christ, supported by an +angel. The pictures inside are exceptionally valuable and beautiful, +including paintings by Vandyke, Murillo, Carlo Dolci, Paul Veronese +(attributed), and many others. On the opposite side of the street +Messrs. Crosse and Blackwell's factory also covers a house owning +historical associations. No. 21 was the "White House," and 22, +"Falconberg House," in former times. The latter was the residence of +Oliver Cromwell's third daughter, Lady Falconberg, who died in 1712. +Sutton Street takes its name from the county seat of the Falconbergs. In +this house Sir Cloudesley Shovel's body lay in state before its +interment, after having been found cast up on one of the Scilly Islands. +A Spanish Ambassador was among the later residents, and afterwards the +house was for a time an hotel. In the large drawing-room the ceiling was +painted by Angelica Kauffmann. The Duke of Argyll, the Earl of Bradford, +and Speaker Onslow, were among its tenants. This house is now the +offices<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> of Messrs. Crosse and Blackwell. The painted ceiling was +carefully taken down and saved from destruction by one of the heads of +the firm. The chief articles of interest remaining are a handsome +overmantel in one of the private rooms of the firm, and a curious +ceiling. The former is of wood, and is varnished and painted in various +tones of bronze and gold. The carving upon it is very elaborate and +enigmatical. The panelled ceiling has some affinity with it, but has +been modernized, and is not so interesting. The front of the house +remains as it was, and claims to be the only original frontage in the +square.</p> + +<p>The centre of the square, when first laid out, was occupied by a +fountain surmounted by a statue of Charles II. in armour, the work of +Colley Cibber. Clinch in "Soho and its Associations" mentions a document +of 1748, still extant, in which are recorded the subscriptions made by +the inhabitants to replace the wooden palisades round the square by iron +railings. This is headed by £300 from the Duke of Portland, and among +the names are those of many titled and influential people, showing that +fashion had not then migrated westward. It was on the doorstep of a +house in the square that De Quincey sank dying of exhaustion and +starvation during his first novitiate of London life, and he was only +saved by his faithful companion Ann.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="PART_II" id="PART_II"></a>PART II +<br /> +<span style="font-size: 75%'">PICCADILLY AND ST. JAMES'S SQUARE</span></h2> + + +<p>Returning from Soho Square to Piccadilly Circus, we find ourselves in +the parish of St. James's, Piccadilly, which takes in all the now +fashionable shopping locality of Regent Street, and is bounded on the +east and south by St. Anne's, Soho, and St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, and +on the west by St. George's, Hanover Square.</p> + +<p>St. James's parish was separated from St. Martin's in 1685, but before +that epoch it had begun to have an existence of its own. Faithorne and +Newcourt's map of London, 1658, shows us open ground from a double row +of trees at Pall Mall to Piccadilly; Piccadilly is marked "from +Knightsbridge unto Piccadilly Hall." Opposite the palace, at the foot of +the present St. James's Street, are a few houses, including Berkshire +(now Bridgewater) House, and there are a few more at the eastern +extremity of Pall Mall. At the north-eastern corner of what we call the +Haymarket is the "Gaming House," and at the corners adjacent one or two +more buildings. This is St. James's in its earliest stage, before the +tide of fashion had moved so far westward.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> Henry Jermyn, Earl of St +Albans, in the reign of Charles II. obtained a building lease of +forty-five acres in St. James's Fields and projected the square, which +became the nucleus of the parish.</p> + +<p><i>Piccadilly.</i>—There is no authentic derivation for this curious name, +though many fancy suggestions have been made. The most probable of these +is that which connects it with the peccadilloes or ruffs worn by the +gallants of Charles II.'s time. Pennant traced the name to piccadillas, +turnovers or cakes which were sold at Piccadilla Hall, at the upper end +of the Haymarket.</p> + +<p>In Thomas Blount's "Glossographia" we read: "Pickadil ... the round hem +or the several divisions set together about the skirt of a garment or +other thing; also a kinde of stiff collar made in fashion of a Bande. +Hence perhaps that famous ordinary near St. James called Peckadilly took +denomination because it was then the utmost or skirt house of the +suburbs that way, others say it took its name from this, that one +Higgins a tailor who built it got most of his estate by Pickadilles, +which in the last age were much worn in England." There seems to be no +other foundation than Mr. Blount's lively imagination for "Higgins a +tailor."</p> + +<p>There is as much confusion about the first date at which the name was +used as there is about its derivation. Whether the hall took its<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> name +from its situation or the district from the hall will probably ever +remain in doubt. The earliest occurrence of the name is in 1636, by +which time the hall was built. The gaming-house was at a later time also +known as Piccadilly, which has increased the confusion. Some writers +have identified the hall and the gaming-house, but there seems to be no +doubt that these were two separate buildings. The former was a private +house standing at the corners of Windmill and Coventry Streets. The +latter seems to have been built by Robert Baker, and sold by his widow +to Colonel Panton, who built Panton Street. It was otherwise known as +Shaver's Hall, and had a tennis-court and upper and lower bowling-green, +and was a very fashionable place of resort. The secondary name probably +emanated from the proprietor's former trade, but it is said to have +stuck to the place after Lord Dunbar lost £3,000 at one sitting, when +people said a Northern lord had been shaved here.</p> + +<p>Sir John Suckling was among the habitués of the place, and his sisters +will ever be remembered from Aubrey's pathetically humorous description +of their coming "to the Peccadillo bowling-green crying for feare he +should lose all [their] portions," as he was a great gamester.</p> + +<p>The name Piccadilly appears to have begun at the east end, near the +circus, and spread over the whole, a fact which is in favour of its +being<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> derived from the house, not the name of the house from the +locality.</p> + +<p>Regent Street is Nash's great memorial. The conception is undoubtedly +fine, namely, a vast avenue to lead from Carlton House to a country +mansion to be built for George IV. in Regent's Park. Nash's great idea, +the combining of many separate buildings into one uniform façade, is +here seen at its best. At first a lengthy colonnade supported by columns +16 feet high ran on either side of the quadrant, but this darkened the +shops, so it was removed. The street is famous for its shops, which line +it from end to end; it has also the merit of being wider than most of +the London streets.</p> + +<p>The part of the parish lying to the east of Regent Street is quite +uninteresting except for Golden Square, which has been well described by +Hatton as "not exactly in anybody's way, to or from anywhere." The +square is mentioned in both "Humphrey Clinker" and "Nicholas Nickleby." +Here Henry St. John, Lord Bolingbroke, lived, 1704-1708, and Mrs. Cibber +in 1746. Angelica Kauffman lived in the centre house on the south side +for many years. It was in the vicinity of the square that the great +burial-ground for the plague-stricken dead was formed in the reign of +Charles II. It was chosen as being well away from the town. Pennant +says: "Golden Square, of dirty access, was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> built after the Revolution +or before 1700. It was built by that true hero Lord Craven, who stayed +in London during the whole time: and braved the fury of the pestilence +with the same coolness as he fought the battles of his beloved mistress, +Elizabeth, Queen of Bohemia." It was in Golden Square that De Quincey +took leave of Ann, whom he was never to see again.</p> + +<p>Piccadilly Circus was formed at the same time as Regent Street, though +it has been altered since. The Criterion Theatre and Restaurant are on +the south-east side. On this site formerly stood a well-known coaching +inn called the White Bear. One of Shepherd's charming sketches in the +Crace Collection illustrates the courtyard of the inn. Benjamin West, +afterwards P.R.A., put up here on the night of his first sojourn in +London. In the centre of the circus is a fountain in memory of the +seventh Earl of Shaftsbury. This was designed by Alfred Gilbert, R.A., +and consists of a very light metal figure of Mercury on a very solid +aluminium pedestal.</p> + +<p>In Piccadilly itself there is the somewhat gloomy-looking geological +museum, with entrance in Jermyn Street, open free to all comers. The +church of St James's, which comes shortly after, was built by Sir +Christopher Wren at the cost of Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans, and +consecrated at first as a chapel of ease to St. Martin's. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> first +rector was Tenison, afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury. Wren considered +this one of his best works. He says: "In this church ... though very +broad and the nave arched, yet there are no walls of a second order, nor +lantherns, nor buttresses, but the whole roof rests upon the pillars, as +do also the galleries; I think it may be found beautiful and convenient, +and as such the cheapest of any form I could invent."</p> + +<p>The church is very wide in proportion to its length, and is said to seat +2,000 people easily. The reredos, a handsome piece of wood carving with +a central group of the pelican in her piety, typical of Christ giving +His life's blood for fainting souls, is the work of Grinling Gibbons. +The organ, in the western gallery, is supposed to have been the work of +Bernard Schmidt and was built for the Roman Catholic Oratory at +Whitehall, but was given to St. James's by Queen Mary, 1691.</p> + +<p>The font which stands in the vestibule at the west end is a most +excellent piece of work. It was carved from a block of white marble by +Grinling Gibbons, and is about 5 feet in height. The shaft is the tree +of life, round which is twined the serpent, while figures of Adam and +Eve stand on either side. It is well worth going into the church to see +this alone. The font originally possessed a cover, which was stolen in +1800, and is said to have been hung up in a spirit shop. In the church<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> +are many monuments hanging on the walls, and on the pillars. One or two +of these at the east end are very cumbrous, and many are heavily +decorated, but none are worthy of note for any intrinsic beauty they +possess. Walcott notes as the most important those of the eighth Earl of +Huntingdon, 1704, and Count de la Roche Foucault, 1741. James Dodsley, +the well-known bookseller, 1797, was buried here, also Haysman, the +rival of Lely, and Lieutenant-General Sir Colin Campbell, K.C.B., 1847.</p> + +<p>Among the entries in the register we have the burials of the two +Vanderveldes, father and son.</p> + +<p>In the old graveyard there are stones in abundance, one or two on the +wall of the church, and many alternating with the flagstones over which +the feet of the living carelessly pass.</p> + +<p>In Sackville Street, just opposite to the church, Sheridan died.</p> + +<p>There are various other public buildings of more or less interest before +we come to Burlington House. No less than three mansions stood here in +the times of the later Stuarts. These belonged to Lord Chancellor +Clarendon and Lords Berkeley and Burlington, of which the latter name +has alone survived.</p> + +<p>The third Earl was an architect, and added several embellishments to his +mansion, including a stone frontage and a colonnade taken down in 1868.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span></p> + +<p>Handel was a guest at Burlington House for three years from 1715. After +the death of Lord Burlington in 1753 the title became extinct. Among the +memorable scenes witnessed by the house was a brilliant ball and fête, +given by the members of White's Club to the allied Sovereigns in 1814.</p> + +<p>Lord George Cavendish, who bought the house in 1815, considerably +altered the interior of the building, and built the Burlington Arcade in +1819. He was afterwards created Earl of Burlington. In 1854 Government +bought the house and garden. The University of London, now in Burlington +Gardens, temporarily occupied the building, and the societies occupying +Somerset House were offered quarters in Burlington House. In 1866 the +mansion was leased to the Royal Academy, and fundamental changes began.</p> + +<p>On the east side of Burlington House are the Geographical and Chemical +Societies, and on the west the Linnæan. In the courtyard, the Royal +Society is in the east wing, and the Royal Astronomical and the Society +of Antiquaries in the western.</p> + +<p>On the site of the Albany, now fashionable "chambers" for unmarried men, +were formerly three houses united into one by Lord Sunderland, the third +Earl, chiefly remembered for his magnificent library, which, when the +earldom of Sunder<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span>land was merged in the dukedom of Marlborough in 1733, +formed the nucleus of the Blenheim Library. The brother of the great Fox +held the house for a short time, and from him it passed to Lord +Melbourne, to whom its rebuilding was due. The architect was Sir W. +Chambers, and the ceilings decorated by Cipriani, Rebecca, and Wheatley. +It was from the Duke of York and Albany, uncle of George III., that the +name is derived. However, he did not live here long.</p> + +<p>St. James's Hall is well known for its popular concerts, which bring +first-rate music within the reach of all. In St. James's Hall the first +public dinner was held on June 2, 1858, and was given under the +presidency of Mr. R. Stephenson, M.P., to Sir F. P. Smith in recognition +of his services in introducing the screw propeller in our steam fleet. +Charles Dickens gave his second series of readings here in 1861.</p> + +<p>Passing down Duke Street, on the south side of Piccadilly, we come to +Jermyn Street. Sir Walter Scott stayed at an hotel here in 1832, on his +last journey home. Sir Isaac Newton was also a resident, and the poet +Gray lodged here.</p> + +<p>In King Street are Willis's Rooms, once Almack's, at one time the scene +of many fashionable assemblies. The rooms were opened in 1765, and a +ten-guinea subscription included a ball and supper once a week for three +months. Ladies were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> eligible for membership, and thus the place can +claim to have been one of the earliest ladies' clubs. Walpole writes in +1770 to George Montagu: "It is a club of both sexes to be erected at +Almack's on the model of that of the men at White's.... I am ashamed to +say I am of so young and fashionable society." The lady patronesses were +of the very highest rank. Timbs quotes from a letter of Gilly Williams: +"You may imagine by the sum, the company is chosen, though refined as it +is, it will scarcely put old Soho [Mrs. Cornelys] out of countenance." +The place steadily maintained its popularity. Captain Gronow in 1814 +says: "At the present time one can hardly conceive the importance which +was attached to getting admission to Almack's, the seventh heaven of the +fashionable world." The large ballroom was about 100 feet in length by +40 in width, and the largest number of persons present at one time was +1,700. It is often mentioned in the contemporary fiction dealing with +fashionable society; indeed, the whole of this neighbourhood was the +theatre for much of the gay life of the eighteenth century.</p> + +<p>St. James's Square is redolent of old memories. It was, as has been +stated, built by Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans. The square seems to +have been a fashionable locality from its very foundation, and, +curiously enough, has escaped the fate of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> so many of its compeers, and +still continues aristocratic.</p> + +<p>The workmanship of all the houses was solid and durable, and as soon as +they were built they were occupied. A catalogue of the names of the +early inhabitants would occupy much space: titled men, men eminent in +letters, science and political life, thronged the arena. The proximity +to the Court was a great attraction. The centre of the square was at +first left in a neglected condition, a remnant of the "Fields" on which +the houses had been built, and it served as a base for the displays of +fireworks which were given after the taking of Namur and the Peace of +Ryswick.</p> + +<p>In 1726 a Bill was passed in Parliament for the cleansing and +beautifying of the square, which had become a disgrace to the +neighbourhood, being a mere offal-heap. An ornamental basin was +constructed and the square paved, and a bronze equestrian statue of +William III., clad, according to the ludicrous custom of a bygone time, +in Roman habit, was erected in 1808, on a pedestal which had been built +for it in the centre of the basin years before. The water in this basin +is associated with at least one historic scene, for in the riots of 1780 +the malcontents threw the keys of Newgate into it, where they remained +undiscovered for many years. The basin was finally drained in 1840, +trees were planted, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> the garden laid out. Among the historic +associations is one of a memorable night, when Dr. Johnson and Richard +Savage paced round and round the square for lack of a lodging, and +pledged each other, as they separated, to stand by their country.</p> + +<p>Norfolk House stands on the site of that of the Earl of St. Albans, +which he built for his own use in the south-east corner, he afterwards +removed to the mansion on the north side. In the Earl's first house the +Grand-Duke of Tuscany, afterwards Cosmo III., lodged, when on a visit to +London in 1669. Frederick, Prince of Wales, rented the old house before +Carlton House was prepared for his reception, and here George III. was +born. The old house still stands behind the newer building.</p> + +<p>Next to Norfolk House is London House, attached to the See of London +since about 1720.</p> + +<p>Next to this, at the south corner of Charles Street, is Derby House, +with handsome iron veranda and railings running round it. It was built +by Lord Bellasis, and one of the earliest occupants was Aubrey de Vere, +twentieth Earl of Oxford. Dasent says there is some reason for supposing +it to have been occupied by Sir Robert Walpole between the years +1732-35. It was bought by the Earl of Derby about the middle of the +present century. All the houses on this side<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> of the square are of dull +brick, in formal style, with neither beauty nor originality. The next, +at the northern corner of Charles Street (now the West End branch of the +London and Westminster Bank), was known as Ossulston House until 1753, +and belonged for a long period to the Bennet family. It covered two +numbers, of which one was occupied by Lord Dartmouth, Lord Privy Seal +under Lord North's Administration, and is now the bank, and the other +was bought by the second Viscount Falmouth, and is now occupied by the +seventh Viscount of that name.</p> + +<p>No. 3 has passed through the hands of many titled and distinguished +owners, and is at present the property of the Duke of Leeds. It was +occupied by the Copyhold Inclosure and the Tithe Commission Office, now +the Board of Agriculture.</p> + +<p>No. 4, in the corner, belongs to Lord Cowper, and No. 5 to the Earl of +Strafford.</p> + +<p>The next two belong to Lord Avebury and Earl Egerton.</p> + +<p>No. 8 has had many vicissitudes. It was for a time occupied as the +French Embassy, later by Sir Cyril Wyche, President of the Royal +Society, also by Monmouth's widow, Josiah Wedgwood, and by many +intervening tenants of distinction. After the occupancy of Wedgwood, the +second Earl of Romney was here for eight years, until 1839, and then the +house became successively the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> home of the Erectheum Club, of the +Charity Commissioners, the Junior Oxford and Cambridge Club, Vine Club, +York Club, Junior Travellers' Club, and at present it is the Sports +Club. Ormond or Chandos House, which took up three numbers at the west +corner of York Street, has a history. It was built by Lord St. Albans in +place of his first house in the south-eastern corner of the square, and +passed into the possession of the Duke of Ormond, the only man who was +four times Lord Lieutenant of Ireland. Entertainments on a large scale +took place during this period. Perhaps the most interesting fact in the +history of the house is that a meeting of noblemen and gentlemen was +held here in 1688, at which an address of welcome to the Prince of +Orange was drawn up, in which he was besought to carry on the Government +until a Convention could meet. The Spanish Embassy was here in 1718. The +Duke of Chandos bought the mansion a year later, and in 1735 it was +pulled down, and the present three houses built on its site. These three +houses have been well tenanted, especially the centre one, No. 10, which +can boast the successive occupancy of Pitt, Lady Blessington, the great +Earl of Derby, and Mr. Gladstone. Here old link-extinguishers still +remain on the posts before the door.</p> + +<p>No. 9 is now the home of the Portland Club.</p> + +<p>No. 12 has also its string of names, but, for fear<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> of degenerating into +a mere catalogue, we will only mention a few of the most important, Sir +Cyril Wyche was the first owner in 1676, and he was succeeded in 1678 by +Aubrey de Vere, twentieth Earl of Oxford. The Dukes of Roxburgh were in +possession from 1796 to 1812, and at the latter date the famous Roxburgh +Library was sold. The last private occupier was J. W. Spencer Churchill, +seventh Duke of Marlborough. After this the house was used successively +by the Salisbury Club, the Nimrod Club, and the Pall Mall Club, the last +of which remains here at present.</p> + +<p>No. 13, the corner house, has passed through many hands, and is now in +the occupation of the Windham Club. The London Library is well known to +all book-lovers.</p> + +<p>Wheatley states that Philip Francis lived at No. 14 until his death in +1818, but the houses have been renumbered since then, and his 14 is now +16.</p> + +<p>No. 15 is known as Lichfield House from its former owner. It was built +by Stuart (known as "Athenian Stuart") in 1763-65. In 1855 it was the +home of the Junior United Service Club. In 1856 it was bought by the +Clerical, Medical, and General Life Assurance Society. The chief event +in its history took place on June 28, 1815, when the Prince Regent +displayed the trophies and banners just brought from Waterloo to the +crowd below.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span></p> + +<p>No. 16, which is now amalgamated with 17, is occupied by the East India +United Service Club.</p> + +<p>Nos. 17 and 18 formed old Halifax House. Many political intrigues and +meetings must have taken place here, for Lord Halifax gained the name of +always being on the winning side. In 1725 Halifax House was demolished +and the present buildings erected. In 1820 Queen Caroline stayed in No. +17 during her trial. The house was afterwards used by the Colonial Club.</p> + +<p>No. 18 boasts such names among its tenants as the fourth Earl of +Chesterfield, the first Lord Thurlow, and Viscount Castlereagh, +afterwards second Marquis of Londonderry. It was used by the Oxford and +Cambridge Club and the Army and Navy Club.</p> + +<p>At the south-east corner of King Street, in the square, was Cleveland +House, which has been demolished and replaced by "mansions."</p> + +<p>Apsley and Winchester Houses follow. The former was rebuilt by Robert +Adam in 1772-74, and follows the well-known lines of his work, with +fluted pilasters rising from above the basement to an entablature. The +entrance has the fan-shaped glass above the door so characteristic of +Adam's work.</p> + +<p>Winchester House was from 1826 to 1875 occupied by the Bishops of that +see, and was later a branch of the War Office, several depart<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>ments of +which are still here. The next magnificent building, which really faces +George Street, but was formerly considered to be in the square, is one +of the palatial clubs evolved by the demands of modern luxury. The house +which formerly stood here was used by the Parthenon Club from 1837-41, +and was subsequently pulled down to make way for the present clubhouse, +opened 1851, and built from designs by Parnell and Smith. The exterior +is a combination of Sansovino's Palazzo Cornaro and the Library of St. +Mark at Venice. The lower part follows Sansovino's beautiful work very +closely. On the site of this stood formerly a house belonging to Nell +Gwynne, of which Pennant writes: "The back-room of the ground-floor was +(within memory) entirely of looking-glass, as was said to have been the +ceiling; over the chimney was her picture, and that of her sister in a +third room." He describes this house as the "first good one on the left +hand of St. James's Square entered from Pall Mall."</p> + +<p>The south side of the square has never been held in such esteem as the +remaining three-fourths. But the Junior Carlton Club, facing Pall Mall, +has removed this stigma; it is a fine specimen of architecture. +Demolition, previous to reconstruction, has already begun next to it. +After this as far as John Street is a row of comparatively insignificant +narrow houses of various heights and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> styles. Some of the houses on the +north side of Pall Mall were built before the completion of the square, +so that there was no room for large mansions here. At the corner of John +Street and Pall Mall is what is called "Ye Olde Bull Tavern," a square +box-like stuccoed house. This is probably contemporary with the first +building of Pall Mall, and may have been the substitute of the +seventeenth century wits and men of letters for the magnificent clubs of +the present day.</p> + +<p>Charles Street was built about 1671, and was, of course, named after the +King. Burke and Canning are numbered among the former residents.</p> + +<p>York Street was named in compliment to the Duke of York, afterwards +James II. It may be noted that the four streets surrounding the square +form the names King Charles and Duke of York.</p> + +<p>Bury Street was named after a Mr. Berry, who was landlord of many of the +houses; the spelling is a corruption. Sir Richard Steele lodged here, +also Thomas Moore and Crabbe, the poet, during one of his later visits +to London, when contact with cultured men had rubbed off his early +boorishness.</p> + +<p>"St. James's Street is much more remarkable for the natural advantages +and beauty of the ground, than from any addition it has received from +art," so says Ralph ("Critical Review of Public Buildings," 1783 +edition). In the very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> earliest maps of the parish a road is marked on +this site, leading northward from the palace. The street was built about +1670, and was first known as Long Street. In the time of the Stuarts it +shared the aristocratic tendency of the square, and had a list of noble +occupiers. It was levelled and made uniform in 1764, having previously +descended from Piccadilly by steps.</p> + +<p>St. James's Street has been noted from the very beginning for its clubs, +gaming-houses, and convivial gatherings. Its proximity to the Court +attracted all the fops and beaux, and it was the resort of fashionable +and gay young idlers. Many anecdotes are related of the street, but +chiefly in connection with the clubs, for which it is still famous. +White's (37 and 38) is one of the oldest; it was established about 1698, +and was at first a chocolate-house. It stood near the low end of the +street, on the west side. It was burnt down in 1733, and the present +building, designed by Wyatt, was erected in 1755, and altered nearly a +century later by Lockyer. The gaming-room of the old house forms the +scene of the sixth plate of Hogarth's "Rake's Progress," where the +gamblers are represented intent on their cards, though the flames are +bursting out. It was after the fire that the house became a private +club, and it was long noted as a gambling-house for high stakes and +reckless betting. It is of White's that the story<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> is told that a man +dropped down before the door insensible, and was taken inside. The +members immediately began to bet whether he were dead or not, and when +the physician came to bleed him, those on the affirmative side +protested.</p> + +<p>"Brooke's" is now No. 60, on the opposite side of the street from +White's, at the northern corner of Park Place, and was as notorious a +gaming-house as White's. It was of later origin, dating from 1764, and +was originally in Pall Mall. It began life under the name of Almack's. +The play was prodigiously high. Timbs says that it was for rouleaux of +£50 each, and there was generally £10,000 in specie on the table.</p> + +<p>"Boodle's," is another celebrated club, which was also named the "Savoir +Vivre." This is now No. 28.</p> + +<p>The Cocoa-tree Club recalls by its name an old chocolate house of Queen +Anne's time, a favourite resort of the Tories, often mentioned by +Addison. Lord Byron was one of the members. The old house was situated +nearer to the south end of the street than the present club.</p> + +<p>"Arthurs," south of St. James's Place, was founded by the proprietor of +White's in 1765. The present building was erected in 1825 by Hopper. The +Conservative Club house (74) was built in 1845 from designs by Smirke +and Basevi. The building is large, with slightly projecting wings, and a +stone balcony extending uninterruptedly across the frontage.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span></p> + +<p>Next door is the "Thatched House" Club, which originated in the Thatched +House Tavern, in which the dilettanti and literary societies used to +meet. Wheatley describes a row of low-built shops standing before the +tavern, one of which was that of the hairdresser Rowland, who made a +fortune by his macassar oil.</p> + +<p>St. James's Coffee-house, a celebrated Whig rendezvous from the reign of +Queen Anne until the beginning of the nineteenth century, was at this +end of the street. In this street there are also many other clubs of +later origin. It was at the foot of St. James's Street that the Duke of +Ormond was attacked in his coach in 1670, by the notorious Colonel +Blood. The Duke had been responsible for the execution of some of +Blood's associates in Ireland, and Blood determined to take him to +Tyburn and hang him in revenge. He actually succeeded in dragging him +from his coach and mounting him on horseback behind one of his men. When +they had proceeded as far as Devonshire House, the Duke succeeded in +unhorsing his companion, and in the delay that followed his servants +made their appearance and rescued him. For this outrage Blood was never +punished. Sir Christopher Wren died in St. James's Street in 1723, and +Gibbon, the historian, in 1794. The names of Waller, the poet, Wolfe, C. +Fox, and Lord Byron, are among the residents. It was here<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> that the last +named was lodging when his "Childe Harold" created such an extraordinary +sensation. Alexander Pope was also a resident.</p> + +<p>McLean, the famous highwayman, lodged opposite "White's." He was hung in +1750, and the first Sunday after he was condemned 3,000 people went to +see him in gaol. St. James's Street at present is sufficiently +noticeable because of its width, in which the old palace gateway at the +foot is framed.</p> + +<p>Park Place was built in 1683. William Pitt came to live here in 1801. +St. James's Place is a medley of old and modern buildings, some having +been built in the last decade. Wheatley speaks of it because of its +tortuous course, as "one of the oddest built streets in London." Wilkes +and Addison, and Mrs. Delaney, at whose house Miss Burney stayed, have +been among the residents. Samuel Rogers lived for fifty years at No. 22, +which looked out over the park.</p> + +<p>Cleveland Square is an open space before the Duke of Bridgewater's +House. The house was restored, as an inscription over the doorway tells +us, or in other words rebuilt, in 1849. This house has a history. It was +originally Berkshire House, and belonged to the Howards, Earls of +Berkshire. Charles II. bought it in 1670, and gave it to that "beautiful +fury," Barbara, Duchess of Cleveland. She pulled down the house and sold +part of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> site before rebuilding. In 1730 the first Duke of +Bridgewater bought it, and it was alternately known by the names of +Cleveland and Bridgewater. The third Duke died unmarried in 1803, when +the title became extinct. He left the house and the magnificent +collection of pictures to his nephew, the Marquis of Stafford, +afterwards Duke of Sutherland, with reversion to the Marquis's second +son. This son was created Earl of Ellesmere in 1846. He rebuilt the +house, still retaining the old name. The famous collection of pictures +within, includes works of Raphael, Titian, Vandervelde, Turner, +Rembrandt, Cuyp, and others, and is one of the finest private +collections in England.</p> + +<p>The house opposite was the home of Grenville, First Lord of the +Admiralty in 1806, and here he collected the magnificent library which +is now at the British Museum. Admiral Rodney lived in Cleveland Row in +1772.</p> + +<p>On Pall Mall the game of the same name was originally played. On both +sides of the open space were rows of elm-trees. But being such an +obvious route from the palace to Charing Cross it was soon used as a +thoroughfare, and after the warrant for "building of the new street of +St. James" Charles II. laid out the new mall in the park. The street, +when built, was at first called Catherine, in honour of the Queen, but +the older name soon returned into favour.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span></p> + +<p>It early became fashionable. Nell Gwynne was one of the first residents. +She had a house numbered 79, near the War Office, afterwards, by the +irony of fate, occupied by the Society for the Propagation of the +Gospel, and since rebuilt. Evelyn records an occasion on which he +attended King Charles II. in the park, when he heard "a familiar +discourse between the King and Mrs. Nellie as they call an impudent +comedian, she looking out of her garden on a terrace at the top of the +wall, and the King standing on the green walk under it."</p> + +<p>During Wyatt's insurrection in 1554, the mob passed along this road, and +the Earl of Pembroke planted artillery on the high ground of Hay Hill +and Piccadilly, when a piece of the Queen's ordnance, we are told, "slew +three of Wyatt's followers, in a rank, and after carrying off their +heads passed through this wall into the park" (Jesse). In 1682 Thynne +was murdered at the instigation of Count Konigsmarck in what is now Pall +Mall East, because he had married the heiress of the Percys, whom the +Count wished to marry himself. The principal was acquitted, but his +three accomplices or tools, who had actually committed the murder, were +executed, according to the poetic justice of the time, at the scene of +their offence, in 1682.</p> + +<p>The Star and Garter Hotel, nearly opposite the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> War Office, was a +fashionable tavern in the time of Queen Anne. Here took place the famous +duel between the fifth Lord Byron and Mr. Chaworth in 1765. They fought +in the house by the light of only a single candle. Byron killed his +opponent, and was found guilty of manslaughter by his peers. However, he +claimed benefit of a statute of Edward VI., and was discharged. The +original dispute was merely as to which gentleman had the larger amount +of game on his estate.</p> + +<p>Among other famous taverns in this street are mentioned the King's Arms, +under the Opera Colonnade in Pall Mall East. Also the Rumpsteak Club, +which consisted of five Dukes, one Marquis, fifteen Earls, three +Viscounts, and three Barons, all in opposition to Sir Robert Walpole. +The King's Head, the George, the Smyrna Coffee-house, Giles' +Coffee-house, Hercules Pillars, and the Tree, were among the ancient +places of resort in this street—a foreshadowing of the palatial +mansions of Clubland.</p> + +<p>The north side of the street is the poorer of the two. Beginning at the +western end on the south side, we have the New Oxford and Cambridge +Club, the Guards, and the Oxford and Cambridge University Clubs. The +first of these has a very massive entrance; the house has only a north +aspect, the windows at the back being glazed with ground-glass so as not +to overlook Marlborough House.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> A little further on is an old red-brick +house with a portico on which is a female figure in bas-relief with +palette and brushes. This is in great contrast to its neighbours; it is +what remains (centre and west wing) of Schomberg House, built about the +middle of the seventeenth century. The first Schomberg came over in the +train of William of Orange; he was Count in his own country, bore +several French titles, and was created an English Duke. He was killed at +the Battle of the Boyne. The house was later occupied by Cumberland of +Culloden, George III.'s uncle, and subsequently by Astley the painter. +Astley divided it into three parts, reserving the centre for his own +use. Among the tenants who succeeded him we find the names of Cosway, +Paine the bookseller, and Nathaniel Hone. In the western wing +Gainsborough lived, so the building has every right to its +distinguishing panel of palette and brushes. During Gainsborough's +occupancy everyone of wealth, beauty or fashion in the society of the +day resorted here to have their features immortalized. This house is now +part of the War Office, which, in a previous stage of its career, was +the Ordnance Office.</p> + +<p>The entrance to the War Office stands back behind a courtyard in which +is a statue of Lord Herbert of Lea. The War Office was originally at the +Horse Guards, and since its<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> removal has gradually extended its premises +by absorbing one house after another. We now come to a long series of +clubs. The Carlton is rich in ornament, with polished granite columns +decorating a front of Caen stone. The design was by Sydney Smirke, and +is said to be founded on that of a Venetian palace. It contrasts with +its neighbour, the Reform, which presents a breadth of plain surface +broken only by little pediments over the windows. This was the work of +Sir Charles Barry, and was copied from the Farnese Palace at Venice, of +which the upper storey was the work of Michael Angelo. It is a dull, +heavy-looking piece of work. On part of its site stood the house of +Angerstein, a Russian merchant, whose collection of pictures formed the +nucleus of our National Gallery.</p> + +<p>The Travellers', next door, also the work of Barry, is in an Italian +style. One of the rules of this club is that no person shall be eligible +for membership who shall not have travelled out of the British Isles at +least 500 miles in a direct line from London.</p> + +<p>The Athenæum is one of the most princely of clubs. It was established in +1823, and the present house was built about half a dozen years later. +Decimus Burton was the architect, and his work is Grecian, with a frieze +copied from the famous procession in the Parthenon. The recently-added<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> +storey has been the subject of much criticism. Among those present at +the preliminary meeting we find the names of Sir Humphrey Davy, Sir +Francis Chantrey, Sir Thomas Lawrence, the Earl of Aberdeen, Sir Walter +Scott, Thomas Moore and Faraday. Theodore Hook was one of the most +popular members.</p> + +<p>At the corner of Pall Mall East and Waterloo Place is the United Service +Club built by Nash. It was instituted after the Battle of Waterloo, and +was at first at the corner of Charles Street, on the site of the Junior +Club of the same name.</p> + +<p>The Guards' Monument, in Waterloo Place, was put up in 1859 in memory of +the Crimea. Three figures of guardsmen—Grenadier, Coldstream, and +Fusilier—in full marching uniform, stand round a granite pedestal, on +which are inscribed the names of the famous Crimean battles; a pile of +Russian guns actually brought from Sebastopol completes the group.</p> + +<p>The Church of St. Philip, on the west side of Lower Regent Street, is a +quaint building with Doric portico and curious little cupola, the latter +a copy of the Lanthorn of Demosthenes at Athens. It was built in 1820 by +Repton, from designs by Sir W. Chambers, and has the merit of being +almost continually open for prayer and meditation.</p> + +<p>On the east side the most important building is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> the Junior United +Service Club, erected in 1852 by Nelson and James.</p> + +<p>Market Street and St. James's Market recall the market held "west of the +Haymarket, mid-way between Charles and Jermyn Street." This originated +in a fair held in St. James's Fields, before the square was built, and +from which Mayfair partly derives its name. This fair was suppressed on +account of disorder in 1651, but revived again, and was not finally +stopped until the end of Charles II.'s reign. After having been +suppressed in the Fields in 1664, it was held in the market. Strype +describes this market as "a large place, with a commodious market-house +in the midst filled with butchers' shambles; besides the stalls in the +market-place for country butchers, higglers and the like, being a market +now grown to great account, and much resorted unto as being served with +good provisions." In a house at the corner of Market Street lived Hannah +Lightfoot, said to have been married to King George III. when Prince of +Wales. The market belonged to Lord St. Albans, whose name is preserved +in St. Albans Place, which ends in a foot-passage leading into Charles +Street.</p> + +<p>The Haymarket derives its name from a market for hay and straw which was +held here until 1830, and was then transferred to Cumberland Market, +Regent's Park, where it still continues. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> market naturally involved +many taverns in its neighbourhood, and the street was lined with them. +The names of some were Black Horse, White Horse, Nag's Head, Cock, +Phœnix, Unicorn, and Blue Posts. The theatre and the old opera-house +were the most important buildings in the Haymarket. The latter was on +the site of Her Majesty's Theatre and the Carlton Hotel. It was called +at different times the Queen's Theatre, the King's Theatre, and Her +Majesty's Theatre, so the new name is but a revival of the old. The +first theatre on this site was begun in 1703 as a theatre for +Betterton's famous company, which had been performing in Lincoln's Inn +Fields. Operas were subsequently performed here; in fact, nearly all +Handel's operas were written for this theatre. Masquerades were held in +the opera-house in 1749 and 1766, and were attended by all the rank and +fashion of the day, and even by royalty in disguise. In 1789 the theatre +was burnt down. It was rebuilt and completed only three years after the +catastrophe. This house saw some fine performances of the Italian Opera +Company, and in it the names of Grisi, Rubini, Tamburini, Lablache, +Mario, and Jenny Lind, first became known to the public. In 1867 it also +was burnt down. For about a quarter of a century a third theatre stood +here, but had no success, and was pulled down. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> present theatre is +of great magnificence, and will seat between 1,600 and 1,700 persons. +The Haymarket Theatre opposite is dwarfed by the proximity of its +gorgeous neighbour. The names of Fielding, Cibber, Macklin, and Foote +are connected with various attempts to make the earliest venture on this +site pay. Mozart performed here in 1765, when only eight years old. In +1820 the present building was erected by Nash, adjacent to the old +theatre. The Haymarket in the last century was a great place for shows +and entertainments.</p> + +<p>In James's Street was a tennis-court much patronized by Charles II. and +the Duke of York.</p> + +<p>Whitcomb Street was formerly called Hedge Lane, an appropriate name when +it stood in a rural district; now it is a narrow, dirty thoroughfare, +bordered by poor dwellings and small shops.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="PART_III" id="PART_III"></a>PART III +<br /> +<span style="font-size: 75%'">THE STRAND</span></h2> + + +<p>We have now made a circuit, noting all that is interesting by the way, +and have returned to busy Charing Cross, from which runs the great +thoroughfare, the Strand, which gives the district its name.</p> + +<p>This important street might be considered<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> either as a street of +palaces—and in this respect not to be surpassed by any street in +medieval Europe, not even Venice—or a street full of associations, +connected chiefly with retail trade, taverns, shops, sedan-chairs, and +hackney coaches.</p> + +<p>The Strand, as the name implies, was the shore by the river. It has +passed through two distinct phases. First, when it was an open highway, +with a few scattered houses here and there, crossed by small bridges +over the rivulets which flowed down to the Thames. One of these was the +Strand Bridge, between the present Surrey Street and Somerset House; +another, Ivy Bridge, between Salisbury Street and Adam Street. In 1656 +there were more than 800 watercourses crossing it between Palace Yard +and the Old Exchange! It was not paved until Henry VIII.'s reign, and we +read of the road being interrupted with thickets and bushes.</p> + +<p>Then came a period of great grandeur, when the Strand was lined with +palatial mansions, which had gardens stretching down to the river, when +the town-houses of the Prince-Bishops, of the highest nobility, and even +of royalty, rose up in grandeur. The names of the streets, Salisbury and +Buckingham, York and Durham, Norfolk and Exeter, are no mere fancy, but +recall a vision of bygone splendour which might well cause the Strand to +be named a street of palaces.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span></p> + +<p>The palaces, which occupied at one time the whole of the south side of +the street, were at first the town-houses of the Bishops. They were +built along the river because, in their sacred character, they were safe +from violence (except in one or two cases), and therefore did not need +the protection of the wall, while it was perhaps felt that even if the +worst happened, as it did happen in Jack Straw's rebellion, the river +offered a liberally safe way of escape. In the thirteenth century Henry +III. gave Peter of Savoy "all those houses in the Thames on the way +called the Strand."</p> + +<p>Gay speaks of the change that had fallen upon the Strand in his time:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Through the long Strand together let us stray;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With thee conversing I forget the way.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Behold that narrow street which steep descends,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Whose building to the shining shore extends;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Here Arundel's fam'd structure rear'd its frame,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The street alone retains an empty name:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Where Titian's glowing paint the canvas warm'd,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And Raphael's fair design with judgment charm'd,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Now hangs the bellman's song, and pasted here<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The colour'd prints of Overton appear;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Where statues breath'd the work of Phidias' hands,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">A wooden pump or lonely watch-house stands;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">There Essex's stately pile adorn'd the shore,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">There Cecil's, Bedford's, Villiers's—now no more."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Disraeli, in "Tancred," says: "The Strand is, perhaps, the finest street +in Europe." Charles Lamb said: "I often shed tears in the motley Strand +for fulness of joy at so much life."</p> + +<p>The Strand has now become a street of shops<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> instead of a street of +palaces; it has been, but is no more, a fashionable resort; it has been +a place for the lodgings of visitors, and still has many small hotels +and boarding-houses in its riverside lanes; its personal associations +are many, but not so important as those in the City or Westminster; it +is a street of great interest, but its architectural glories have almost +all vanished.</p> + +<p>Beginning at the west end, we note on the north side the Golden Cross +Hotel, rebuilt. This is the successor of a famous old coaching inn, +which stood further west. On the south side is Craven Street, formerly +Spur Alley, where once Benjamin Franklin lived at No. 7. The site of +Hungerford Market is now covered by the Charing Cross railway-station. +In Charing Cross station-yard is a modern reproduction of the original +Queen Eleanor's Cross. The market was built in 1680, rebuilt in 1831, +and stretched to the river. The name will always be connected with that +of Charles Dickens, and with "David Copperfield." Beside the market was +the suspension bridge constructed by Brunel, opened in 1845, and removed +to make room for the railway-bridge.</p> + +<p>On the site of Hungerford Market there stood the "Inn" or House of the +Bishop of Norwich. In 1536 Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, exchanged +his house in Southwark for this place; twenty years later it fell into +the hands of Heath,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> Archbishop of York, who called it York House, and +in the reign of James I. it became the property of the Crown. Bacon was +born in this house. In 1624 the Duke of Buckingham obtained the house; +he pulled it down, and began to build a large mansion to take its place. +The watergate is the only part of his structure still existing. Cromwell +gave the house to Fairfax, whose daughter married the second Duke of +Buckingham, of the Villiers family. In 1655 Evelyn describes the house +as "much ruined through neglect." In 1672 the house and gardens were +sold to four persons of Westminster, who laid out the site in streets, +viz., Villiers Street, Duke Street, Buckingham Street, and Of Alley, +forming in conjunction the words Villiers, Duke of Buckingham. York +House was pulled down soon after, and York Buildings erected on the +site. Peter the Great had lodgings in York Buildings during his visit to +England, and Pepys occupied a house on the west side, near the river, +for some time. The gardens of the Victoria Embankment now fill up the +space over which the river formerly flowed, and the watergate is merely +a meaningless ornament 100 yards or more from the water.</p> + +<p>At the corner of Agar and King William Streets, on the north, is the +Charing Cross Hospital, founded 1818, and built on the present site in +1831, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> architect being Decimus Burton. It is a dreary stuccoed +building, with a rounded end, and contains nothing that specially marks +it out from other general hospitals.</p> + +<p>In Chandos Street the highwayman Claude Duval was arrested, after which +he was executed at Tyburn, 1669. There was an ancient hostelry called +the Black Prince in Chandos Street, which is mentioned by Dickens. This +was demolished to make way for the Medical College. Opposite was the +blacking shop where Dickens spent a miserable part of his childhood.</p> + +<p>The next group of streets on the south side, namely, John, Robert, +James, and William Streets, was built by four brothers of the name of +Adam, who gave their Christian names to their handiwork, and from whom +this particular district was called the "Adelphi," from the Greek word +signifying brothers. The site was occupied by Durham House, a palace +built by Anthony de Beck, Bishop of Durham in Edward I.'s reign. Bishop +Tunstall in 1535 exchanged it with Henry VIII. for Cold Harbour and +other houses in the City, and for a time it was frequented by royalty. +The King gave a great tournament here on his marriage with Anne of +Cleves. Proclamations of the jousts were made in France, Spain, +Scotland, and Flanders. The young King, Edward VI., granted the house to +his sister Elizabeth for life. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> unfortunate Lady Jane Grey was +married within the walls of Durham House to the son of Northumberland. +When Queen Mary ascended the throne, she gave the palace back to Bishop +Tunstall, but Elizabeth regarded it as one of the royal palaces, and +after her accession bestowed it on Sir Walter Raleigh. In Aubrey's +"Letters" Raleigh's occupation of the house is mentioned in a +descriptive passage: "Durham House was a noble palace.... I well +remember his (Raleigh's) study, which was on a little turret that looked +into and over the Thames, and had the prospect which is, perhaps, as +pleasant as any in the world." When Raleigh was imprisoned the See of +Durham again obtained the house. The stables, facing the Strand, were +then in a very ruinous condition, and were pulled down. On their site +was built an exchange, called the New Exchange, which obtained some +popularity. This was erected partly on the pattern of the Royal +Exchange, and was opened by King James I. This, Strype tells us, "was +for milliners, sempstresses, and other trades that furnish dresses."</p> + +<p>The place was opened in 1609 by James I. and the Queen; it was called +Britain's Burse. It became fashionable after the Restoration, and, after +a period of popularity lasting a little more than fifty years, it was +taken down. Here Anne Clarges, daughter of John Clarges, a farrier of +the Savoy, sold gloves, washballs, and powder.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> She married General +Monk, and died Duchess of Albemarle. Here Henry Herringman, publisher, +had his shop. The Restoration literature abounds in references to the +New Exchange. The shops were served by girls who spent a great part of +their time in flirting with the fops. The Duchess of Tyrconnell, sister +of Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough, is said to have kept a shop here for +her own maintenance, wearing a white mask which she never removed. The +lower walk was a notorious place for assignations. It was taken down in +1737. In 1768 the brothers Adam obtained the lease of the ground and +began to build. Robert Adam had been much struck in his foreign travels +with the palace of Diocletian on the Bay of Spalatro. The terrace facing +the sea had impressed his imagination, and the Adelphi Terrace is the +result of his adaptation of the idea. It was necessary to gain a solid +foundation on the slippery river-bank, therefore the brothers designed +the wonderful system of arches on which all the Adelphi precinct rests. +On building their terrace they had to encroach on the river, and form an +embankment, which was much resented by the Londoners. The centre house +in the terrace was taken by Garrick, who remained there until his death, +about seven years later. The arches were at first left open, but formed +a refuge for the vicious and destitute, who made a regular city of the +underground<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> passages. They were subsequently filled in, and now are +brewers' vaults, with only the high-vaulted roadway left open to form a +passage for the drays and vans. Beneath the terrace is a curious little +strip of land cut off from the Embankment garden by high wooden pales. +This is practically useless, as it can only be reached through the +arches. On it is an old dilapidated shed, once a much-frequented tavern, +called the Fox under the Hill, a curious feature on land which is of so +much value.</p> + +<p>There are several interesting houses in the Adelphi precinct. In the +centre of the terrace is the Savage Club, and there are many other +societies and institutions on the terrace. In John Street is the +building expressly designed for the Society of Arts.</p> + +<p>The work of the Society is brought before the notice of the public by +circular tablets, which are affixed to houses in London which have +formerly been the homes of men eminent in literature, science, or art. +Close at hand is the bank of Messrs. Coutts, on the site of the New +Exchange. This important bank deserves some special notice. It was +established by a goldsmith of the name of Middleton, who kept a shop +near St. Martin's Church about 1692. The name of Coutts first appears in +1755. Many interesting stories are told in connection with this famous<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> +house. The Mr. Coutts who was head of the firm at the beginning of the +present century was twice married. By his first wife he had three +daughters, who married respectively the third Earl of Guilford, the +first Marquess of Bute, and Sir Francis Burdett. His second wife was +Miss Mellon, an actress, to whom he left the whole of his vast fortune. +She afterwards married the Duke of St. Albans, but left the whole of her +great wealth to Miss Angela Burdett, grand-daughter of Mr. Coutts. This +lady assumed the additional name of Coutts, and was raised to the +peerage on account of her munificent charities.</p> + +<p>The Adelphi Theatre stands on the north side of the Strand, but is +identified by name with this district; it was originally called the Sans +Pareil. Charles Mathews gave many of his celebrated "at homes" here. A +few doors west is the Vaudeville.</p> + +<p>Ivy Bridge Lane, now closed, runs to the west of Salisbury Street. It is +a narrow, dirty passage, and was named from a bridge in the Strand which +crossed one of the numerous rivulets running down to the Thames. Pennant +mentions a house of the Earl of Rutland's near this bridge. The Cecil +Hotel is built over Salisbury and Cecil Streets, names that recall a +mansion of Sir Robert Cecil, second son of Lord Burleigh, called +Salisbury House.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span></p> + +<p>Adjacent to this stood Worcester House. It was originally the town-house +of the Bishops of Carlisle; at the Reformation it was presented to the +Earl of Bedford, and known as Bedford House, until the owner built +another house on the north side of the Strand. It then became the +property of the Marquis of Worcester, and was known as Worcester House. +Lord Clarendon lived here after the Restoration. At Worcester House his +daughter Anne was married to the Duke of York. Lord Clarendon left the +house, and went to live in St. James's Street. Worcester House was then +used for great occasions.</p> + +<p>Here the Duke of Ormond (1669) was installed Chancellor of the +University of Oxford, and in 1674 the Duke of Monmouth Chancellor of the +University of Cambridge. The Worcester House Conference was also held in +the hall of this place. Beaufort Buildings occupy a part of the site. +The house itself was destroyed by the Duke of Beaufort.</p> + +<p>Exeter Street and Hall (north) preserve the name of Exeter House, built +by Lord Burleigh. It was at first Cecil House, but on the succession of +his eldest son, the Earl of Exeter, elder brother of Sir Robert Cecil, +it became Exeter House. Afterwards the house was used by Doctors of +Ecclesiastical Law, etc., and later was converted into an exchange, at +first designed for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> the sale of fancy goods, but later famous for an +exhibition of wild beasts. The body of Gay the poet rested in this +Exchange before being interred in Westminster Abbey.</p> + +<p>Exeter Hall was erected in 1830 for the purpose of religious meetings. +Exeter Street will always be associated with the name of Dr. Johnson, +who took lodgings here when he came up to London first, and dined at a +neighbouring cookshop for eightpence.</p> + +<p>The Lyceum Theatre was designed by S. Beazley, and opened in 1834. It +will be always associated with the names of Sir Henry Irving and Ellen +Terry. It stands on the site of the English Opera-House, burnt down in +1830, which during many years was the home of a quaint convivial +gathering, called the Beefsteak Society, founded by Rich and Lambert in +1735. The members dined together off beefsteaks at five o'clock on +Saturdays from November until the end of June. The gridiron was their +emblem.</p> + +<p>Just before arriving at Wellington Street there is a glimpse of green +trees, and of a brilliant bed of flowers, down a little narrow street on +the south side of the Strand. Many people must have noticed these +things, few have had the curiosity to explore further; yet it is well +worth while to get down from omnibus or cab and venture into this little +backwater of the Savoy.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> Between eleven and one, and two and four +o'clock every day the garden gate is open, and the verger is in the +chapel, ready to answer questions. The little graveyard garden, with its +waving trees, is a veritable oasis in the desert of brick and mortar, +and the quaint chapel with its turret forms a suitable background. The +precincts of the Savoy appertain to the Duchy of Lancaster, and as such +are royal property; the reigning Sovereign keeps up the place, and pays +for choir and service. In former days many irregular marriages were +performed here, until the place gained a reputation second only to the +Fleet Prison. Weddings are still held here, though the procedure is now +strictly legal. The origin of the church was in the reign of Henry VII., +but the fire which raged in 1864, and burnt out the interior, destroyed +many old relics, and the present interior is Early Victorian. There is a +curious old oil-painting opposite the door, which looks as if it had +been part of a triptych, and in the chancel two quaint little stone +figures, which survived the fire. The latest stained-glass window was +filled in quite recently in memory of D'Oyley Carte. It was unveiled by +Sir Henry Irving in the spring of 1902. Several persons of importance +have been buried here, but none whose names are sufficiently well known +to merit quotation. Many Bishops have been consecrated in the chapel,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> +and it was here that the memorable Conference on the Book of Common +Prayer took place in Charles II.'s reign. The chapel was made parochial +after the greedy Somerset had destroyed the first Church of St. Mary le +Strand, in order to use its materials for his own mansion. It had before +that time been dedicated to St. John the Baptist, but was henceforth +known as St. Mary le Savoy.</p> + +<p>The history of the precinct of Savoy is difficult to treat in a volume +like the present, because it requires a book to itself. It is not the +paucity of material, but the quantity, that is embarrassing. The great +palace which stood here first was built by Simon de Montfort, Earl of +Leicester, one of the Barons to whom our present Constitution is due. By +one of the frequent vicissitudes of the times, when no man's land or +property was safe, this palace came into the hands of King Henry III., +who took the opportunity of a visit from his wife's uncle, Peter of +Savoy (afterwards Earl of Savoy and Richmond), to present it to him. +Peter either gave it to or exchanged it with a religious fraternity, +from whom it was rebought by the Queen, Eleanor, who gave it to her son +Edmund, Earl of Lancaster.</p> + +<p>After the Battle of Poitiers, King John of France was brought here a +prisoner, and, oddly enough, though he was soon set at liberty, his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> +death occurred here many years later when he had returned to make amends +for the escape of one of his sons held hostage by the English until the +payment of his ransom.</p> + +<p>John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, had made the palace into a most +magnificent building, and here he lived in great state. Chaucer, +Froissart and Wycliff are mentioned as having been his frequent guests. +In the sack of the town by Wat Tyler this house particularly attracted +the attention of the unruly mob, who did their utmost to wreck it, and +were assisted by the explosion of several barrels of gunpowder, which, +ignorant of their contents, they had thrown upon the flames. The costly +plate and rich furniture were flung into the Thames by the rioters. +After this it lay in ruins until King Henry VII., himself a descendant +of John of Gaunt, founded here a hospital for 100 poor people, but he +hardly lived to see his project carried out. Amid the general spoliation +of the religious houses that followed, Henry VIII. seems to have +respected his father's wish and left the hospital alone. It is described +as a goodly building in the form of a cross. However, it was suppressed +under Edward VI., and restored by Mary, whose maids of honour "did with +exemplary piety furnish it with all necessaries." Elizabeth laid hands +on it, and later it seems to have been reserved for such nobles as had +the favour of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> Crown and the right of free quarters, something in +the same way as Hampton Court is reserved at present. There is an +illustration by Hollar showing the palace-hospital as it was in 1650. It +is right on the water's edge, presenting a very solid line of wall to +the river, pierced by two rows of small windows. In the upper stories +the parapet is battlemented, and a square tower built over arches +projects from the frontage. We have also a plan of about a hundred years +later (1754), showing the congeries of buildings that then covered the +precincts. The part near the river is marked "Dwellings"; the ancient +hospital has become "barracks." There is a military prison at the west +side, and churches of the German Calvinist, German Lutheran and French +persuasions are all within the walls.</p> + +<p>The present church in this plan is at the north-west end, and all the +above-mentioned buildings are to the south and east of it, covering +ground now devoted to offices and mansions. A good deal of the buildings +was standing even at the beginning of the nineteenth century, when it +was demolished to make way for the approaches to Waterloo Bridge.</p> + +<p>At the east corner of what is now Wellington Street stood Wimbledon +House, built by Sir Edward Cecil, son to the first Earl of Exeter. It +was burned down in 1628.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span></p> + +<p>The great palace called Somerset House was at first built by the +Protector Somerset, brother of Jane Seymour. He cleared away to make +room for it the palace of the Bishops of Worcester and Chester, the +Strand Inn belonging to the Temple, and many other buildings. The +cloister on the north side of St. Paul's containing the "Dance of Death" +was demolished in order to find stones for the new building, which was +unfinished when the Protector was beheaded in 1552. The architect is +supposed to have been John of Padua. It is not, however, certain how far +the place was completed at the death of the Protector. Elizabeth gave +the keeping of the house to her kinsman, Lord Hunsdon. James called it +Denmark House. Charles gave it to his Queen, Henrietta Maria, and built +a chapel for the Roman Catholic service. Some of the Queen's attendants +are buried here; their tombs are in vaults under the great square. A +register of the marriages, baptisms and burials which have taken place +at Somerset House has been published by Sir T. Philips. Here Henrietta +appeared in a masque; here died Inigo Jones; here Oliver Cromwell's body +lay in state; after the Restoration Henrietta returned here for a time; +Catherine of Braganza succeeded; here the body of Monk, Duke of +Albemarle, lay in state; and here, after Catherine left England, the +place became like the Savoy,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> the favoured residence of the poorer +nobility. The old building was destroyed in 1775.</p> + +<p>In the new Somerset House, erected 1776-1786—architect, Sir William +Chambers—were for many years held the meetings of the Royal Society; +the Society of Antiquaries; the Royal Academy of Arts; the Astronomical, +Geological and Geographical Societies. A great deal of public business +is carried on at Somerset House. The east wing is occupied by King's +College, founded in 1828. Opposite to Somerset House a stream came down +from the higher ground; it was crossed by the Strand Bridge. The waters +flowed through the palace into the river.</p> + +<p>On the east side of Somerset House stood Arundel House, originally +Bath's Inn, as the town-house of the Bishop of Bath and Wells. In this +house were set up the famous Arundel marbles. The Duc de Sully, who was +lodged here during his embassy to England on the accession of James I., +speaks of it as a most commodious house. Near Arundel House and Somerset +House was an Inn of Chancery called Chester Inn.</p> + +<p>Among the buildings destroyed to make room for Somerset House was a +small church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and, according to some, to +St. Ursula. The Duke of Somerset promised to build another for the +people, but was beheaded before he could fulfil his promise. On the +present<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> site of St. Mary's Church, and at the west end, stood a stone +cross where the justices itinerant sat at certain seasons, and also on +the site was the old Strand well. The cross became decayed, and a +maypole was erected either on its site or close beside it. The Puritans +pulled down the maypole, but after the Restoration another and a much +taller one, measuring in two pieces 134 feet, was put up by sailors +under the direction of the Duke of York amid the rejoicings of the +people. The maypole stood until 1713, when the remaining portion was +carried away to Wanstead Park, where it was used for holding a +telescope. The Church of St. Mary le Strand was built 1714-1723 by James +Gibbs. It was the first of the fifty new churches ordered (not all +built) by Queen Anne, and it was at first called New Church. The style +of the church has been vehemently abused, and yet it has grown in favour +and has now many admirers. It is divided into two parts, of which the +lower has no window, being built solid to keep out the noise of the +street. The windows are in the upper part. The church within is nobly +ornamented and is without galleries. Before the west end of the church +was the first stand for hackney coaches.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Around that area side they take their stand,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Where the tall maypole o'erlooked the Strand;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And now—so Anne and Piety ordain—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">A church collects the saints of Drury Lane."<br /></span> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span></div></div> + +<p>And again the poet asks:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"What's not destroyed by Time's devouring hand?<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Where's Troy—and where's the Maypole in the Strand?"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Mrs. Inchbald lived by the side of the New Church in the Strand.</p> + +<p>The immense changes taking place in the Strand begin to be very +noticeable opposite Somerset House. At the time of writing a few houses +at the corner of Wellington Street are still standing, but will soon +disappear.</p> + +<p>On the south side of the Strand, just beyond the east end of St. Mary's +Church, is a narrow entry called Strand Lane. This was formerly Strand +Bridge, over one of the rivulets running down to the Thames, and later +it still retained the same name, meaning the bridge or landing stairs at +the river end.</p> + +<p>Some way down this lane there is a notice pointing out a Roman bath +which is still in existence and well worth seeing. The bath now belongs +to Messrs. Glave, drapers in New Oxford Street, and is open free of +charge for anyone to inspect between eleven and twelve o'clock on +Saturday mornings. It is a rough vaulted chamber which has wisely been +left without any attempt at decoration, and the bath itself measures +about six yards by one and a half. It is four feet in depth, and is fed +by a spring which continually flows in. Subscribers are allowed to use +it on the payment<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> of two guineas per annum. There was formerly a +companion bath quite near, but this was done away with at the building +of the Norfolk Hotel. The slabs of white marble which form the pavement +of the existing bath were taken from it. It is curious that such a +relic, computed to be perhaps 2,000 years old, should survive hidden and +almost unnoticed, where so many buildings long anterior in date have +utterly vanished. The bath is not mentioned by Stow or Malcolm in their +accounts of London, and probably was not discovered when they wrote.</p> + +<p>In Surrey Street Congreve died in 1729. The greater part of this and the +neighbouring streets has been very recently rebuilt. Huge modern +red-brick mansions with all the latest conveniences of electric light +and lifts replace the old mansion which once stood here. These are +carefully built and not unpicturesque; they are let in flats, and house +a multitude of offices, clubs, etc. They are called by the names of the +noble families who once lived here—Arundel House, Mowbray House, and +Howard House. In Norfolk Street there are hotels and a small ladies' +club, the Writers', the only women's club in London which demands a +professional qualification from its members. Peter the Great lodged in +this street, and William Penn, the Quaker, was at the last house in the +south-west corner.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span></p> + +<p>In Howard Street Mrs. Bracegirdle, the actress, once lodged, and a wild +attempt was made by an admirer to carry her off one night as she +returned from the theatre. The well-known duellist, Lord Mohun, took +part in the outrage which ended in the death of the actor Mountford. +Congreve was also a resident in Howard Street, removing afterwards to +Surrey Street. The old Crown and Anchor Tavern stood in Arundel Street, +in which was the Whittington Club, founded by Douglas Jerrold, who was +the first president. At the corner of Arundel Street is the depot of W. +H. Smith and Sons, the largest book and newspaper business in the world, +having the monopoly of the station bookstalls.</p> + +<p>St. Clement Danes Church, at the east end of the Strand, is said to have +been so called because the Danes who remained after Alfred's final +victory were made to live in this quarter. The church is of extreme +antiquity. That which was taken down in 1680 was certainly not the +earliest. In its churchyard lie the remains of King Harold. The new +church was built by Edward Pierce, under the superintendence of Wren. +The present tower and steeple were added by Gibbs. St. Clement's has +long been famous for its bells, commented on in the children's game:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i2">"Oranges and lemons<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Say the bells of St. Clement's."<br /></span> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span></div></div> + +<p>Oranges and lemons used to be distributed among the parish poor at +certain seasons. The bells, ten in number, still peal as merrily as of +old. In the gallery a brass plate with an inscription marks the spot +where Dr. Johnson regularly sat in his attendance at service. The body +of the church is filled with high old-fashioned pews, and the pulpit is +a peculiarly rich bit of work attributed to Grinling Gibbons, though it +does not altogether follow the usual type of his designs. Several +monuments hang on the walls and pillars, but none of any general +interest. In the church are buried Otway and Nathaniel Lee. The plate +belonging to the church is very handsome and valuable, of silver, and +some pieces date back to the time of Queen Elizabeth. The registers also +commence at 1558, and contain several interesting entries. One of the +earliest is the baptism of Robert Cecil, June 6, 1563, son of the High +Treasurer, who was himself Prime Minister under Elizabeth and James I.</p> + +<p>Essex Street recalls the fascinating and unhappy Essex, favourite of +Queen Elizabeth. Essex House was built on the above-mentioned piece of +ground called the Outer Temple which never belonged to the lawyers, but +had been annexed by the Bishops of Exeter in the reign of the second +Edward. This was then known as Exeter House. It was sacked by the +populace in the same reign,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> and the unlucky prelate Walter Stapledon, +who had taken the side of the King in his disputes with the Queen, was +carried off and beheaded. The house was rebuilt, and continued to belong +to the See until the reign of Henry VIII. But it seemed to have some +malignant influence, for nearly all its successive owners suffered some +unhappy fate. Lord Paget, who occupied it during Henry VIII.'s reign, +narrowly escaped being beheaded. Thomas Howard, fourth son of the Duke +of Norfolk, who succeeded, died in the Tower after many years of +imprisonment. Dudley, Earl of Leicester, followed, and during his period +of residence the house can claim association with the name of Spenser, +who was a frequent visitor. Leicester escaped the malevolent influence +of the house, which he left to his son-in-law, Robert Devereux, Earl of +Essex. During the Earl's occupancy the mansion went through some stormy +scenes. It was here that he assembled his fellow-conspirators which he +left to his step-son, Robert Devereux, to arouse the people to aid him +to obtain possession of the Queen's person, but he found his popularity +unequal to the demand. The people turned against him, and he was driven +back to his own house, which he barricaded. But his resistance was +useless. Artillery was employed against him, and a gun mounted on the +tower of St. Clement's Church. He was forced to surrender, and being<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> +found guilty of high treason, was executed. After the Restoration the +house was let in tenements. It was pulled down about the end of the +seventeenth century, but the Watergate at the end of the street is said +to have been a part of it. The street was built in 1862. Dr. Johnson +established here a small club known as the Essex Head Club.</p> + +<p>The Essex Street Chapel, which was the headquarters of the Unitarians in +London, was built upon part of the site of the house; Smith says it was +part of the original building. The Cottonian Library was kept here from +1712 to 1730. A lecture-hall now stands on the site of the chapel. The +Ethical Society give lectures here on Sunday evenings.</p> + +<p>With Temple Bar the City of London, or, rather, the Liberties thereof, +begin, and it is here that on great state occasions the Lord Mayor meets +his Sovereign and hands to him the keys of the City. The first building +on this spot was a timber house, but the exact date of its erection +cannot be ascertained. It was probably put up for the decoration of a +pageant, and, being found useful, was kept up. The gate has been often +taken to have been part of the defences of the City, which it certainly +was not, being protected or strengthened with neither moat nor +drawbridge, nor being strong enough for the mounting of cannon. The Bar, +a simple arrangement of chain and rails, is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> mentioned as early as 1301, +but it cannot be ascertained that there was any building upon it. In +1502 the custody of the Bar, together with that of Newgate and Ludgate, +is assigned to Alderman Fabian and others.</p> + +<p>In 1533 it would seem that a gate was standing here, because for the +reception of Anne Boleyn Temple Bar was newly painted and repaired, +"whereon stood divers singing men and children." Again in 1547, for the +coronation of Edward VI., the Bar was painted and fashioned with +battlements. In 1554 the "new gates" of Temple Bar were assigned to the +custody of the City. Aggas's map shows the Bar as a covered gate. The +gateway was very cumbersome, blocking up an already narrow street. Among +other ceremonies it witnessed the progresses of Queen Elizabeth and +Queen Anne respectively, to return thanks in St. Paul's Cathedral, the +one for deliverance from the Armada, and the other in gratitude for +Marlborough's victories. Inigo Jones, when he was engaged upon the +Restoration of St. Paul's, was invited to furnish a design for a new +arch. He complied, but his design was never carried out. It was engraved +in 1727.</p> + +<p>The Great Fire was checked before it reached Temple Bar. In 1670, +however, the old gate was removed and its successor built by Wren. The +familiar gate, still (1902) remembered by every<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span>body who has reached +manhood, was removed in the year 1878, and a monument with the City +Dragon, colloquially known as the Griffin, was put up on the site of the +Bar. The stones of the ancient building were preserved, and have been +rebuilt in the park of Sir H. Meux at Cheshunt. One of the decorations +of the later gateway consisted of iron spikes on which the heads of +traitors were displayed, notably those of the men incriminated in the +rebellions of the eighteenth century. When a high wind arose, these +heads were sometimes blown down into the street below, a sight better to +be imagined than described. From this circumstance Temple Bar was +sometimes called the Golgotha of London.</p> + +<p>Here we turn westward, and resume our perambulation in the part lying +along the northern side of the Strand, which has not yet been described.</p> + +<p>The parish of St. Clement Danes has changed very greatly since ancient +times, when a large part of it, stretching from Lincoln's Inn Fields to +the Strand, was known as Fickett's Field, and was the jousting-place of +the Templars. This portion became gradually covered with houses and +courts, which were at first fashionable dwelling-places, and were +associated with noble names. These degenerated until, at the beginning +of the present century, a vast rookery of noisome tenements,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> inhabited +by the poorest and most wretched people, covered the greater part of the +parish to the north of the Strand. The erection of the new Law Courts, +1868, entirely swept away numbers of these tenements, and opened out the +parish to the north of the church. The change thus effected paved the +way for further reformation, and though the streets about the site of +Clare Market are poor and squalid, they show a beginning of better +things, and no longer own such an evil reputation as they did.</p> + +<p>Further north, beyond King's College Hospital, is Portugal Street, +called by Strype "Playhouse Street." In the times of the later Stuarts +it was a very fashionable locality. It is said that women first +performed on the stage in public at the King's Theatre, in this street. +The players were often patronized by Pepys. In 1717 the first English +opera was performed here, and in 1727 the "Beggar's Opera" was produced +with unprecedented success; but in 1835 the theatre in Portugal Street +was taken down to make room for the enlargement of the museum belonging +to the College of Surgeons.</p> + +<p>Portsmouth Street contains a quaint, low, red-tiled house purporting to +be the Old Curiosity Shop of Dickens' novel. The Black Jack Tavern, of +some notoriety, stood here. It was the resort of the actors and +dramatists of the adjacent<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> theatre, and was the scene of a famous +escape of Jack Sheppard from the Bow Street officers. It is said to have +been a meeting-place of the Cato Street conspirators.</p> + +<p>Shear or Shire Lane formerly ran from the east end of Carey Street to +the Strand, and formed the parish boundary. This was a narrow, dirty +lane of the vilest reputation before its demolition, but it had known +better days. A very famous tavern stood in the lane, first called the +Cat and Fiddle, later the Trumpet, and still later the Duke of York's. +The well-known Kitcat Club met here originally. This was a society of +thirty-nine gentlemen or noblemen zealously attached to the Protestant +succession in the House of Hanover, and originated about 1700. Addison +and Steele, Congreve, Vanbrugh, and others of celebrity, besides the +Dukes of Somerset, Devonshire, Marlborough, Newcastle, etc., and many +others, titled and untitled, were of the society. The bookseller Tonson +was the secretary, and he had his own and all their portraits painted by +Sir Godfrey Kneller, who was also a member of the club. Addison dated +many of his famous essays from this address. The lane was known in the +reign of the first James as Rogues' Lane.</p> + +<p>The south side of Lincoln's Inn Fields only is within our boundaries, +but the square is worth seeing. It is the largest in London, and was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> +partly designed by Inigo Jones, who built the west side, called the Arch +Row; the east side was bounded by the garden wall of Lincoln's Inn; on +the north was Holborn Row; the south side was Portugal Row. The history +of Lincoln's Inn Fields is a curious combination of rascality and of +aristocracy. The rascals infested the fields, which were filled with +wrestlers, rogues and cheats, pick-pockets, cripples and footpads; the +aristocrats occupied the stately houses on the west side. Among the +residents here were Lord Somers, the Duke of Newcastle, Lord Kenyon, +Lord Erskine, and Spencer Percival. In the fields Babington and his +accomplices were executed, some of them on the 20th, and some on the +21st, of September, 1586. Here also on July 21, 1683, William, Lord +Russell was beheaded.</p> + +<p>East of Drury Lane there lies a curious district mainly made up of lanes +now rapidly disappearing, such as Clare Market, Wild Street, and a +network of narrow courts. In 1657 Howell speaks of the Earl of Clare as +living "in a princely manner" in this neighbourhood. It was in Clare +Market that Orator Henley had his chapel. The market was one chiefly for +meat, and the shops and sheds were mainly occupied by butchers. Dr. +Radcliffe frequented a tavern in this place, and Mrs. Bracegirdle, the +actress, used to visit the market in order to assist the poor +basket-women. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> place is now almost gone. There was a notorious +burial-ground, closed at last after its enormities had been exposed over +and over again. King's College Hospital is built upon a part of the +slums. Clement's Inn will be swept away by the Strand improvements. New +Inn is still standing; Danes' Inn is a modern court with offices and +residential chambers. Wych Street itself has still some of the old +houses left. In Newcastle Street was Lyons' Inn, cleared away to make +room for a theatre.</p> + +<p>Drury Lane derives its name from the family mansion of the Druries which +stood on the site. The brave Lord Craven bought this house and rebuilt +it. It is stated that he married privately the Queen of Bohemia, +daughter of James I. Timbs says that she occupied the house adjoining +Craven House, which was connected with it by a subterranean passage. +Craven Buildings were built in 1723 upon the site of the house; Hayman, +the artist, and Mrs. Bracegirdle, the actress, both had rooms in these +buildings. The Olympic Theatre is also partly on the site of Craven +House.</p> + +<p>Drury Lane was once a fashionable quarter, but lost that reputation +before many of its contemporaries, and since the time of the third +William has borne a more or less vile character. Nell Gwynne was born in +Coal Yard, which opens off on the east side.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span></p> + +<p>The Drury Lane Theatre has many interesting associations. It was built +by Killigrew in 1663, and was called the King's House, under which title +Pepys recalls many visits to it. In 1671 it was burnt down. It was +rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren, and opened 1674. Among the list of +patentees we have the names of Rich, Steele, Doggett, Wilks, Cibber, +Booth, and also Garrick, who began here his Shakespearian revivals. +Sheridan succeeded Garrick as part proprietor, and in 1788 John Kemble +became manager. The old theatre was demolished in 1791, and a new one +opened three years after. This was also burned down in 1809, and the +present theatre opened three years later. J. T. Smith takes the origin +of the theatre still further back, saying that even from the time of +Shakespeare there had been a theatre here, which had been a cockpit. The +site of the cockpit, however, is on the other side of Drury Lane, where +Pit Place now is.</p> + +<p>North of the theatre was a disused burial-ground, later asphalted and +turned into a public playground. It was less than a quarter of an acre +in extent. It is now built over by workmen's dwellings of the usual +kind. It was an additional burial-ground to St. Mary's le Strand, and is +mentioned by Dickens in "Bleak House."</p> + +<p>Crown Court recalls the Crown Tavern where <i>Punch</i> was first projected. +The south end of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> Drury Lane, running into Wych Street, is now +completely altered. New Inn and Booksellers' Row, otherwise Holywell +Street, are wiped off the map, and the semicircular arm of the great new +street connecting Holborn and the Strand will come out near St. +Clement's Church. The name Holywell referred to a holy well which stood +on the spot. There were, apparently, several of these wells in the +vicinity; one was on the site of the Law Courts (<i>Times</i>, May 1, 1874). +The street was a survival of old London, with its houses picturesquely +old, with pointed gables, and it is a cause for regret that it had to go +down in the march of modern improvements (see <i><a href="#frontispiece">frontispiece</a></i>).</p> + +<p>Butcher Row ran round the north side of the church. It was so named from +a flesh-market established here by Edward I. Numerous small courts +opened off in the north side. Among these were Hemlock, Swan, Chair, +Crown and Star Courts. The Row and its vicinity had for many years a +notoriously bad reputation. One of the courts off Little Shear Alley was +Boswell Court, not, as some have imagined, called after Johnson's +biographer. This court was at one time a very fashionable place of +residence; Lady Raleigh, the widow of Sir Walter, lived here for three +years.</p> + +<p>In Butcher Row the houses were picturesque, of timber and plaster. In +one of them the great de Rosny, afterwards Duc de Sully, lodged for one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> +night when he came to England as the French Ambassador.</p> + +<p>Turning westward, we see what is left of Newcastle Street, which was +named after John Holles, Duke of Newcastle, who owned the ground (1711). +The work of demolition is going on as far as Catherine Street, where the +Gaiety theatre still stands, though not for long, for the second great +scimitar sweep of the new street will join the Strand here.</p> + +<p>The parish of St. Paul's lies like a leaf on the parish of St. +Martin's-in-the-Fields, by which it is wholly surrounded. Its southern +boundary runs most erratically, zigzagging in and out across the streets +which connect Maiden Lane and Henrietta Street with the Strand. The +eastern line keeps on the east side of Bow and Brydges Street. The north +passes along the north side of Hart Street, and the west cuts across the +east ends of Garrick and New Streets, keeping to the east of +Bedfordbury.</p> + +<p>The name Covent is a corruption of Convent, and is taken from the +convent garden of the Abbey of Westminster, which was formerly on this +site. It was written Covent, as taken from the French <i>couvent</i> more +immediately than the Latin <i>conventus</i>.</p> + +<p>At the dissolution of the monasteries, Westminster Convent Garden became +Crown property.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> In the first year of his reign Edward VI. granted it to +the Duke of Somerset. On the fall of that nobleman it reverted to the +Crown, and in 1552 was granted to the Earl of Bedford with "seven acres, +called Long Acre." The Earl of Bedford built a town-house on his newly +acquired property, and devoted himself to the improvement of the +neighbourhood.</p> + +<p>Though the parish is so small, it is full of interesting associations, +chiefly of the last two centuries. Wits, actors, literary men, and +artists, frequented its taverns and swarmed in its precincts. The +contrast between its earlier days, when it was a quiet retreat where the +monks slowly paced beneath the sheltering trees, and its later +vicissitudes, when the eighteenth-century roisterers and gamesters made +merry within its taverns, could hardly be more striking.</p> + +<p>The great square called the Market was laid out by the Earl of Bedford +in 1631; the Piazza ran along the north and east sides; the church and +churchyard formed the west side; on the south was the wall of Bedford +House, and by a small grove of trees in the middle stood a sundial. The +place gradually grew as a market. In 1710 there were only a few sheds; +in 1748 the sheds had become tenements, with upper rooms inhabited by +bakers, cooks and retailers of gin.</p> + +<p>The square itself is redolent of memories. When<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> first built it was one +of the most fashionable parts of London, and the names of the occupiers +were all titled or distinguished. We read among them those of the Bishop +of Durham, Duke of Richmond, Earl of Oxford, Marquis of Winchester, Sir +Godfrey Kneller, and the Earl of Sussex. The arcade, or Piazza, as it +was called, was a fashionable lounging-place, and many foundling +children were called Piazza in its honour. One of the scenes in Otway's +"Soldier of Fortune" is laid here, and also one in Wycherley's "Country +Wife." Sir Peter Lely had a house in the square, and this house was +successively occupied by Sir Godfrey Kneller and Sir James Thornhill +(Timbs). Coffee-houses and taverns abounded in and about the square. Of +these the most famous were Will's, Button's and Tom's, well known by the +references to them in contemporary literature. The first of these in +point of time was "Will's," which stood at the north corner of Russell +and Bow Streets (see p. <a href="#Page_106">106</a>).</p> + +<p>The Bedford Coffee-house under the Piazza succeeded Button's, or, +rather, came into vogue afterwards when Garrick, Quin, Foote and others +used it. The house stood at the north-east corner. It is described as a +place of resort for critics. "Everyone you meet is a polite scholar and +critic ... the merit of every production of the press is weighed and +determined." Apparently a place where the conversa<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span>tion was a continual +attempt at smartness; it must have been most fatiguing. The weak point, +indeed, of this public life was the demand it created for conversational +display. The greater part of Johnson's pithy sayings were delivered in +such a mixed company, and were prepared in sonorous English to suit the +company.</p> + +<p>An article in the <i>London Mercury</i>, January 13, 1721, states that there +were twenty-two gaming-houses in the parish. Besides all these +attractions, there was Covent Garden theatre opened in 1733 by Rich, +though the first patent had been granted to Sir William Davenant. In +1746 Garrick joined Rich, but at the end of the season left him for +Drury Lane, taking with him all the best actors. In 1803 Kemble became +proprietor and stage-manager, but five years later the theatre was +completely burnt. It was rebuilt under the directions of R. Smirke, and +when re-opened was the scene of a singularly pertinacious revolt. The +prices had been raised in consequence of the improved accommodation, and +the people in the pit banded themselves together under the name of "Old +Prices," and made such an intolerable uproar that the piece could not +proceed. Smith says "the town seemed to have lost its senses." For weeks +people wore O.P. hats and O.P. handkerchiefs, and interrupted every +attempt to carry the play through. In the end a compromise was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> made. In +1840 Charles Kemble left the theatre, and the building was leased to C. +Mathews, Madame Vestris and Macready. In 1847 it was opened as an +Italian Opera-House after being almost rebuilt. It was again destroyed +by fire in 1856, but the façade was saved with its bas-reliefs and +statues by Flaxman and Rossi. These were placed on the present building +designed by Barry, which was opened two years later.</p> + +<p>The Church of St. Paul, Covent Garden, was built by Inigo Jones in 1633 +at the expense of the Earl of Bedford; consecrated by Bishop Juxon in +1638; destroyed by fire in 1795; rebuilt by John Hardwick in the place +of the original building. And the story goes that when the architect +heard the commission, "to build a church not much bigger than a barn," +he replied it should be the handsomest barn in England.</p> + +<p>Buried here are Robert Carr, Earl of Somerset; Sir Henry Herbert and +Samuel Butler, author of "Hudibras," died 1680; Sir Peter Lely, died +1680, whose monument was destroyed in the fire; Edward Kynaston, actor; +Wycherley, the dramatist; Grinling Gibbons, died 1721, sculptor in wood; +Susannah Centlivre; Dr. Arne, musician, died 1778; Charles Macklin, +comedian, died 1797 at the age of 107; John Wolcott, <i>alias</i> Peter +Pindar, died 1819. The registers begin at 1615, and among the baptismal +entries are the names of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, May 26, 1689, and +Turner, the painter, May 14, 1775.</p> + +<p>The church is visible from the street on the east and the market on the +west, but accessible only by a covered entry under the houses on the +north and south. In Hogarth's picture of "Morning" we get a glimpse of +the old church before its destruction, with clock-dial, and tiled roof, +not so very dissimilar from what it is at present.</p> + +<p>The election of members for Westminster formerly took place on a +hustings before the church, when there were scenes of wild riot. The +most memorable of these elections was that of Fox and Sir Cecil Wray in +1784.</p> + +<p>Bow Street, Covent Garden, was built in 1637, and named after its shape, +that of a bent bow. It is remarkable for the number of well-known +persons who have lived in it. It was one of the most fashionable streets +in the Metropolis, and Dryden wrote in the epilogue to one of his plays:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"I've had to-day a dozen billet-doux<br /></span> +<span class="i0">From fops and wits and cits and Bow Street beaux;"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>on which Sir Walter Scott remarked a billet-doux from Bow Street would +now be more alarming than flattering. The police officer began his reign +here in 1749.</p> + +<p>Henry Fielding, who was in authority in 1753, did much to suppress the +unbridled license and open highway robbery of the Metropolis.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span></p> + +<p>Will's Coffee-house was at No. 1, on the west side, the corner of +Russell Street. The principal room was on the first floor. Dryden made +the house the chief place of resort for the poets and wits of the time. +After his death Addison took the company across the street to Button's. +Ned Ward's notes on Will's are not respectful.</p> + +<p>"From thence we adjourned to the Wits' Coffee-house.... Accordingly, +upstairs we went, and found much company, but little talk.... We +shuffled through this moving crowd of philosophical mutes to the other +end of the room, where three or four wits of the upper class were +rendezvous'd at a table, and were disturbing the ashes of the old poets +by perverting their sense.... At another table were seated a parcel of +young, raw, second-rate beaus and wits, who were conceited if they had +but the honour to dip a finger and thumb into Mr. Dryden's snuff-box" +(Cunningham, p. 555.).</p> + +<p>Defoe, on the other hand, is more complimentary:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Now view the beaus at Will's, the men of wit,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">By nature nice, and for discerning fit,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The finished fops, the men of wig and muff.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Knights of the famous oyster-barrel snuff."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>At Button's there was a carved lion's head, of which the mouth was a +letter-box for contributions to the <i>Guardian</i> and <i>Tatler</i>. This was +set<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> up by Addison in 1713, and attracted much attention. It was removed +in 1731 to the Shakespeare Tavern, and later came into the possession of +the Duke of Bedford. Tom's was the last of the three famous houses. It +was started by a waiter from Will's, and managed to hold its own. It was +on the north side of the street, nearly opposite Button's.</p> + +<p>The literary associations of the street are innumerable. Wycherley +lodged here, and after an illness was visited by Charles II., who gave +him £500 for a trip to France. The well-known Cock Tavern was just +opposite his rooms, and when Wycherley had married the Countess of +Drogheda he used to sit in the tavern with the windows open so that his +jealous wife could see there were no women in his company. This tavern +was the resort of the rakes and mohocks that for a while made the +neighbourhood a terror to decent people. Henry Fielding wrote "Tom +Jones" while living in this street. Grinling Gibbons died here. Edmund +Waller, the poet, lived here during the Commonwealth, and Robert Harley, +Earl of Oxford, was born here in 1661. Radcliffe, the Court physician, +was a resident in the beginning of the eighteenth century.</p> + +<p>The streets opening out of the square can boast many interesting +associations.</p> + +<p>Henrietta Street was named after Charles I.'s<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> Queen. Samuel Cooper, +miniature-painter, lived here. The Castle Tavern, where Sheridan fought +with Mathews on account of Miss Linley, was in this street.</p> + +<p>Maiden Lane can claim several illustrious names. It was the birthplace +of Turner; Andrew Marvell and Voltaire both lodged here.</p> + +<p>Long Acre was originally an open field called the Elms, and later known +as Seven Acres, from a grant of land made to the Duke of Bedford. A +curious house-to-house survey of 1650 is preserved in the Augmentation +Office. From this it would appear that the street at that date was full +of small shops, grocers, chandlers, etc., with here and there a big +house occupied by some titled person. Ever since the first introduction +of coaches Long Acre has been particularly favoured by coachbuilders, +and at the present time it is lined by carriage-works. Long Acre was the +scene of many convivial gatherings in the Hanoverian times. It can claim +the first "mug-house," an institution which speedily became popular. +Oliver Cromwell lived on the south side of Long Acre, and Dryden and +Butler in Rose Street, a dirty little alley half destroyed by the +building of Garrick Street. Here Dryden was set upon by three hired +bullies at the command of Lord Rochester, who was insulted by some +satirical lines which he attributed to the poet.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span></p> + +<p>Garrick Street was built about 1864, and the club of the same name was +founded for the patronage of dramatic art.</p> + +<p>St. Martin's Lane is one of the oldest thoroughfares in the parish. It +was built about 1613, and was then known as West Church Lane. It ran +right through to the front of Northumberland House, and prints are still +extant showing the church peeping over the line of houses on the western +side.</p> + +<p>St. Martin's Lane claims many celebrated names, and was a favourite +resort for artists. The house in which Inigo Jones lived is still +pointed out—No. 31 on the east side. Almost exactly opposite this is +the Public Library, built at the same time as the Municipal Buildings; +it contains a fine reference collection (see also p. <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.) The lane +abounds with memories of the past. In St. Peter's Court Roubiliac +established a studio, afterwards a drawing academy, which numbered +Hayman, Cipriani, Ramsay, Cosway, Nollekens, Reynolds and Hogarth among +its members; this was the predecessor of the Royal Academy. This court +was two or three doors above the Free Library, and was eventually closed +up at the west end by the Garrick Theatre. No. 114 is traditionally on +the site of the mansion of the Earls of Salisbury, in which, also +traditionally, the Seven Bishops were confined before being committed +to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> the Tower. The names of Chippendale, Nathaniel Hone and Fuseli are +associated with the lane, also Sir Joshua Reynolds and Sir James +Thornhill.</p> + +<p>Old Slaughter's Coffee-house alone is enough to redeem any street from +oblivion. This was established in 1692, and stood on the spot where +Cranbourne Street now crosses the end of St. Martin's Lane. It was a +favourite resort of all the painters and sculptors of the time, not to +mention the wits and beaux. Hogarth was a constant visitor, his house in +Leicester Square being conveniently near. Roubiliac, Gainsborough, and +also Wilkie, came to enjoy society at Old Slaughter's, and Pope and +Dryden are known to have visited it. The first chess club in London was +established here in 1747.</p> + +<p>And now we have strolled around the chosen area, making Trafalgar Square +the centre, and returning to and fro in two great loops eastward and +westward, resembling a true lovers' knot. We have been in the company of +King and courtier, rebel and wit. We have consorted with the gay fops of +the eighteenth century in their club and coffee house life, and we have +seen the haunts of men whose names are household words wherever the +English tongue is spoken.</p> + +<p>It has been chiefly seventeenth and eighteenth century life that has +enchained us as we read the pages of the past, and in its richness and +variety<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> at least the eighteenth century would be difficult to rival. +Prosaic London, with her borough councils, her Strand improvements, and +her immense utilitarian flats, still retains the glamour of her bygone +days, and if her present buildings are without much attraction, they are +glorified by the halo of their association with their fascinating +predecessors.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX</h2> + + + +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Albemarle, Duchess of, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> +<li>Albemarle, Duke of, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li> +<li>Addison, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li> +<li>Adelphi, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> +<li>Adelphi Terrace, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> +<li>Admiralty, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> +<li>Agar Street, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> +<li>Apsley House, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li> +<li>Arlington House, <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li> +<li>Arne, Dr., <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> +<li>Arundel Street, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li> +<li>Astley, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Babington, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> +<li>Bacon, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> +<li>Baily, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li> +<li>Beauclerk, Topham, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> +<li>Beaufort Buildings, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li> +<li>Beckford, Alderman, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li> +<li>Bedford Coffee House, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li> +<li>Bedford House, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li> +<li>Belines, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li> +<li>Berkshire House, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> +<li>Bermudas, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> +<li>Bleak House, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> +<li>Blessington, Lady, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> +<li>Blood, Colonel, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> +<li>Bohemia, Queen of, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> +<li>Bolingbroke, Lord, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> +<li>Booksellers' Row, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> +<li>Boswell Court, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> +<li>Bow Street, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li> +<li>Bracegirdle, Mrs., <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> +<li>Braganza, Catherine, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li> +<li>Bridgewater House, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> +<li>Buckingham, Duke of, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> +<li>Buckingham Palace, <a href="#Page_1">1</a></li> +<li>Buckingham Street, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> +<li>Burdett, Sir Francis, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> +<li>Burke, Edmund, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> +<li>Burlington Arcade, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> +<li>Burlington Gardens, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> +<li>Burlington House, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li> +<li>Burney, Miss, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> +<li>Bury Street, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li> +<li>Butcher Row, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> +<li>Butler, Samuel, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> +<li>Button's Coffee House, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li> +<li>Byron, Lord, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Canning, George, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> +<li>Caribbean Islands, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> +<li>Carlisle House, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li> +<li>Carlton House, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li> +<li>Carlton House Terrace, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li> +<li>Caroline, Queen, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li> +<li>Catherine Street, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> +<li>Cecil Hotel, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> +<li>Cecil House, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li> +<li>Centlivre, Susannah, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> +<li>Chandos Street, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> +<li>Chapel Street (Soho), <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> +<li>Charing Cross, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li> +<li>Charing Cross Road, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> +<li>Charing Cross Station, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> +<li>Charles Street, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> +<li>Charlotte, Queen, <a href="#Page_2">2</a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span></li> +<li>Chaucer, Geoffrey, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li> +<li>Chaworth, Mr., <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li> +<li>Chester Inn, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li> +<li>Chippendale, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> +<li>Churches: + <ul class="IX"> + <li>Chapel Royal, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li> + <li>Essex Street Chapel, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li> + <li>German Chapel, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li> + <li>St. Anne's, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> + <li>St. Clement Danes, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li> + <li>St. James's, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> + <li>St. Martin's, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> + <li>St. Mary le Strand, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li> + <li>St. Mary the Virgin, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> + <li>St. Patrick, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li> + <li>St. Paul's, Covent Garden, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> + <li>St. Philip's, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Cibber, Colley, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li> +<li>Cibber, Mrs., <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> +<li>Clare, Earl of, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> +<li>Clare Market, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> +<li>Clarence House, <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li> +<li>Clarendon, Lord, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li> +<li>Clarges, Anne, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> +<li>Clement's Inn, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> +<li>Cleveland House, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li> +<li>Cleveland Square, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> +<li>Clubs: + <ul class="IX"> + <li>Albany, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> + <li>Almack's, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> + <li>Army and Navy, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li> + <li>Arthur's, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> + <li>Athenæum, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li> + <li>Boodle's, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li> + <li>Brooke's, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> + <li>Button's, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li> + <li>Carlton, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li> + <li>Cocoa-tree, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> + <li>Colonial, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li> + <li>Conservative, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> + <li>East India United Service, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li> + <li>Guards, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li> + <li>Junior Carlton, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> + <li>Junior United Service, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li> + <li>Kitcat, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> + <li>New Oxford and Cambridge, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li> + <li>Old Slaughter's Coffee House, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> + <li>Oxford and Cambridge University, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li> + <li>Pall Mall, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li> + <li>Parthenon, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> + <li>Portland, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> + <li>Reform, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li> + <li>Rumpsteak, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li> + <li>Savage, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> + <li>Sports, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> + <li>St. James's Coffee House, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> + <li>Thatched House, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> + <li>Tom's, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> + <li>Travellers', <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li> + <li>Union, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> + <li>United Service, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li> + <li>White's, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li> + <li>Whittington, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li> + <li>Will's Coffee House, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li> + <li>Willis's Rooms, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> + <li>Windham, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li> + <li>Writers', <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>College of Physicians, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> +<li>Congreve, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li> +<li>Constitution Hill, <a href="#Page_1">1</a></li> +<li>Cooper, Samuel, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> +<li>Cornelys, Mrs., <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li> +<li>Cosway, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li> +<li>Cottonian Library, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li> +<li>Coutt's Bank, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> +<li>Covent Garden, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li> +<li>Covent Garden Market, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> +<li>Coventry Street, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li> +<li>Crabbe, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> +<li>Craig's Court, <a href="#Page_11">11</a></li> +<li>Craven, Lord, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_97">97</a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span></li> +<li>Craven House, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> +<li>Craven Street, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> +<li>Cromwell, Oliver, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> +<li>Crown Court, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> +<li>Crown Street, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Dane's Inn, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> +<li>Dean Street, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li> +<li>Delaney, Mrs., <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> +<li>De Quincey, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> +<li>Derby, Earl of, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> +<li>Derby House, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> +<li>Dickens, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> +<li>Drummond's Bank, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li> +<li>Drury Lane, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> +<li>Dryden, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> +<li>Duke Street, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> +<li>Durham House, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> +<li>Duval, Claude, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Essex, Earl of, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> +<li>Essex House, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li> +<li>Essex Street, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li> +<li>Evelyn, <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li> +<li>Exeter Hall, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li> +<li>Exeter House, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li> +<li>Exeter Street, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Fielding, Henry, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> +<li>Flaxman, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li> +<li>Fleetwood, General, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> +<li>Fox, C., <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> +<li>France, King John of, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li> +<li>Francis, Philip, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li> +<li>Franklin, Benjamin, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> +<li>Frederick, Prince of Wales, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li> +<li>Free Library, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li> +<li>Frith Street, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> +<li>Froissart, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Gainsborough, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> +<li>Gaming House, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li> +<li>Garrick, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> +<li>Garrick Street, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li> +<li>Gaunt, John of, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li> +<li>Gay, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li> +<li>George III., <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li> +<li>Gerrard Street, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li> +<li>Gibbon, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> +<li>Gibbons, Grinling, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> +<li>Gladstone, Mr., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> +<li>Godolphin House, <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li> +<li>Golden Cross Hotel, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> +<li>Golden Square, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> +<li>Goldsmith, Dr., <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> +<li>Gordon, General, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> +<li>Gordon Riots, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li> +<li>Green Park, <a href="#Page_1">1</a></li> +<li>Grenville, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> +<li>Grey, Lady Jane, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> +<li>Guards' Monument, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li> +<li>Gwynne, Nell, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Halifax House, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li> +<li>Handel, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> +<li>Hartshorn Lane, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> +<li>Hawkins, Sir J., <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> +<li>Hayman, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> +<li>Haymarket, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li> +<li>Hazlitt, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li> +<li>Hedge Lane, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li> +<li>Henley, Orator, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> +<li>Henrietta Maria, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li> +<li>Henrietta Street, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> +<li>Hog Lane, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> +<li>Hogarth, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> +<li>Holywell Street, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> +<li>Hone, Nathaniel, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> +<li>Hospitals: + <ul class="IX"> + <li>Charing Cross, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> + <li>Diseases of the Heart and Paralysis, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> + <li>King's College, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> + <li>For Women, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Howard Street, <a href="#Page_88">88</a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span></li> +<li>Howard, Thomas, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> +<li>Hume, David, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> +<li>Hungerford Market, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Inchbald, Mrs., <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li> +<li>Irving, Henry, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li> +<li>Italian Opera Company, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li> +<li>Ivy Bridge Lane, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Jeffries, Lord, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li> +<li>Jermyn Street, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> +<li>Jerrold, Douglas, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li> +<li>Johnson, Dr., <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li> +<li>John Street, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> +<li>Jones, Inigo, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li> +<li>Jonson, Ben, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> +<li>Joyce, Colonel, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Kauffman, Angelica, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> +<li>Kean, Edmund, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> +<li>Kemble, Charles, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> +<li>Kemp's Field, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> +<li>King's College, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li> +<li>King Street, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> +<li>King William Street, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> +<li>Kneller, Sir Godfrey, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li> +<li>Konigsmarck, Count, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> +<li>Kynaston, Edward, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Langton, Mr., <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> +<li>Law Courts, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> +<li>Lawrence, Sir Thomas, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li> +<li>Lee, Nathaniel, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li> +<li>Leicester, Earl of, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> +<li>Leicester Square, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> +<li>Lely, Sir Peter, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> +<li>Lichfield House, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li> +<li>Lightfoot, Hannah, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li> +<li>Lincoln's Inn Fields, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> +<li>Locket's Ordinary, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li> +<li>London House, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> +<li>London Library, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li> +<li>Long Acre, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> +<li>Lord Mayor of London, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Macklin, Charles, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> +<li>Maiden Lane, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> +<li>Marble Arch, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li> +<li>Market Street, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li> +<li>Marlborough House, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li> +<li>Marvel, Andrew, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> +<li>Mathews, Charles, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> +<li>Milton, <a href="#Page_11">11</a></li> +<li>Mohun, Lord, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li> +<li>Monmouth, Duke of, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li> +<li>Monmouth House, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> +<li>Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li> +<li>Monument, The, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> +<li>Moore, Thomas, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> +<li>Mountford, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li> +<li>Mozart, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li> +<li>Mulberry Gardens, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li>National Gallery, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> +<li>National Portrait Gallery, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> +<li>Nelson, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> +<li>Newcastle Street, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li> +<li>New Exchange, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> +<li>New Inn, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> +<li>Newton, Sir Isaac, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> +<li>Nollekins, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li> +<li>Norfolk Hotel, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> +<li>Norfolk House, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> +<li>Norfolk Street, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> +<li>Northumberland, Earl of, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> +<li>Northumberland House, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> +<li>Nugent, Dr., <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Oates, Titus, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> +<li>Old Curiosity Shop, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> +<li>Old Scotland Yard, <a href="#Page_11">11</a></li> +<li>Onslow, Speaker, <a href="#Page_35">35</a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span></li> +<li>Orange Court, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> +<li>Ormond, Duke of, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li> +<li>Ormond House, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> +<li>Ossulston House, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> +<li>Otway, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li> +<li>Oxford, Earl of, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Paget, Lord, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> +<li>Paine, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li> +<li>Pall Mall, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> +<li>Pall Mall East, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li> +<li>Panton Street, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li> +<li>Park Place, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> +<li>Penn, William, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> +<li>Pepys, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> +<li>Peter the Great, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> +<li>Piazza, The, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> +<li>Piccadilly, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li> +<li>Piccadilly Circus, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> +<li>Pindar, Peter, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> +<li>Pitt, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> +<li>Pope, Alexander, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> +<li>Portsmouth Street, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> +<li>Portugal Street, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> +<li>Postlethwaite, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> +<li>Public Library, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> +<li><i>Punch</i>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Radcliffe, Dr., <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> +<li>Raleigh, Lady, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> +<li>Raleigh, Sir Walter, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> +<li>Regent Street, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> +<li>Reynolds, Sir Joshua, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> +<li>Rich, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> +<li>Rodney, Admiral, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> +<li>Rogers, Samuel, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> +<li>Rolls, The, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> +<li>Roman Bath, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li> +<li>Romilly, Sir Samuel, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li> +<li>Roubiliac, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> +<li>Roxburgh Library, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li> +<li>Royal Mews, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> +<li>Rupert, Prince, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li> +<li>Russell, Lord William, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Sackville Street, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li> +<li>Salisbury House, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> +<li>Savage, Richard, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> +<li>Savoy, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li> +<li>Savoy, Peter of, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li> +<li>Schomberg House, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li> +<li>Scott, Sir Walter, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> +<li>Shaftesbury Avenue, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> +<li>Shaver's Hall, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li> +<li>Shear or Shire Lane, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> +<li>Sheppard, Jack, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> +<li>Sheridan, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> +<li>Shovel, Sir Cloudesley, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li> +<li>"Simple Story," <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> +<li>Societies: + <ul class="IX"> + <li>Antiquaries, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li> + <li>Arts, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> + <li>Beefsteak, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li> + <li>Chemical, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> + <li>Ethical, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li> + <li>Geographical, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li> + <li>Geological, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li> + <li>Linnæan, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> + <li>Royal, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li> + <li>Royal Academy of Arts, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li> + <li>Royal Astronomical, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Soho, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> +<li>Soho Square, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> +<li>Somerset, Duke of, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> +<li>Somerset House, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li> +<li>Somerset House (New), <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li> +<li>Somerset, Protector, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li> +<li>Spenser, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> +<li>Spring Gardens, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li> +<li>Spur Alley, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> +<li>St. Albans, Earl of, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li> +<li>St. Alban's Place, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li> +<li>Stafford House, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span></li> +<li>St. Catherine's Hermitage, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> +<li>Steele, Sir Richard, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> +<li>St. James's Hall, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> +<li>St. James's Market, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li> +<li>St. James's Palace, <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li> +<li>St. James's Parish, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li> +<li>St. James's Place, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> +<li>St. James's Street, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li> +<li>St. James's Square, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li> +<li>St. Martin's Lane, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li> +<li>St. Martin's Town Hall, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> +<li>St. Mary Rounceval, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li> +<li>St. Paul's Parish, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li> +<li>St. Peter's Court, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li> +<li>Strand Bridge, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li> +<li>Strand Lane, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li> +<li>Strand, The, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li> +<li>Suckling, Sir John, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li> +<li>Suffolk, Duke of, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> +<li>Suffolk House, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> +<li>Sully, Duc de, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> +<li>Surrey Street, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li> +<li>Sutton Street, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Tart Hall, <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li> +<li>Temple Bar, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li> +<li>Temple, The, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> +<li>Tenison, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> +<li>Tenison's School, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li> +<li>Terry, Ellen, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li> +<li>Theatres: + <ul class="IX"> + <li>Adelphi, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> + <li>Criterion, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> + <li>Drury Lane (King's House), <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> + <li>Empire Music Hall, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> + <li>Gaiety, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li> + <li>Haymarket, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li> + <li>Her Majesty's, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li> + <li>King's, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> + <li>Lyceum, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li> + <li>Olympic, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> + <li>Vaudeville, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Theodore, King of Corsica, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> +<li>Thornhill, Sir James, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> +<li>Tom's Coffee House, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> +<li>Tonson, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> +<li>Tooke, Horne, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> +<li>Trafalgar Square, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> +<li>Tunstall, Bishop, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> +<li>Turk's Head, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> +<li>Turner, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> +<li>Tyburn, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li> +<li>Tyler, Wat, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li> +<li>Tyrconnell, Duchess of, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li>University of London, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> +<li>Usher, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Vanbrugh, Sir J., <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> +<li>Vestris, Madame, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li> +<li>Victoria Embankment, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> +<li>Villier's Street, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> +<li>Voltaire, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Waller, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> +<li>Wallingford House, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> +<li>Ward, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li> +<li>Wardour Street, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li> +<li>War Office, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li> +<li>Warwick, Sir Philip, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li> +<li>Wedgwood, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> +<li>Wellington Street, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li> +<li>Western General Dispensary, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> +<li>Whitcomb Street, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li> +<li>White Bear, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> +<li>Wilkes, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> +<li>Williamson, Mr., <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> +<li>Willis's Rooms, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> +<li>Will's Coffee House, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li> +<li>Wimbledon House, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li> +<li>Winchester House, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li> +<li>Windmill Street, <a href="#Page_89">89</a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span></li> +<li>Wolcott, John, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> +<li>Wolfe, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> +<li>Woodfall, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> +<li>Worcester House, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li> +<li>Worcester, Marquis of, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li> +<li>Wren, Sir Christopher, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> +<li>Wych Street, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> +<li>Wycherley, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> +<li>Wycliff, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li> +<li>Wild Street, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li>York Column, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li> +<li>York House, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> +<li>York Street, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> +</ul> + + + + +<p class='center'>THE END</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p class='center'>BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a href="images/map.jpg"><img src="images/thumb_map.jpg" width="600" height="458" alt="STRAND DISTRICT." title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">STRAND DISTRICT. +<br /> +Published by A. & C. Black, London.</span> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p class='center'>"The work fascinates me more than anything I have ever done."</p> + +<p class='center'><span class="smcap">Sir Walter Besant.</span></p> + +<p class='center' style="font-size: x-large;"><b>LONDON<br /> +<span style="font-size: 75%;">IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY.</span><br /></b> +<br /> +<span style="font-size: 50%;">BY<br /> +SIR WALTER BESANT.</span></p> + +<p class='center'><i>IN ONE VOLUME, ABOUT 700 PAGES, CONTAINING ILLUSTRATIONS FROM +CONTEMPORARY PRINTS, AND A MAP. DEMY 4to., CLOTH, GILT TOP, PRICE</i> 30s. +net.</p> + +<p class='center'><b>EXCERPT FROM PREFACE.</b></p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>It was my husband's ambition to be the historian of London in the +Nineteenth Century, just as Stow had been in the Sixteenth Century, and +he projected "The Survey of London," which was to be a record of the +greatest, busiest, most wealthy, most populous city in the whole world, +as it was from century to century and as it is at present.</p> + +<p>From this history as a whole the portion relating to the Eighteenth +Century has been chosen for present publication, not only on account of +its intrinsic interest, but because of the fascination that the period +had for the author. It will, I think, be pleasing to most readers to +find that so much space has been devoted to the social life of the +period—in fact, the book may be regarded as a Social picture of London +in the Eighteenth Century, rather than as a consecutive history.</p></div> + +<p class='center'>PUBLISHED BY<br /> +A. AND C. BLACK. SOHO SQUARE. LONDON. W.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p class='center'>"If you want to know anything about anybody, get a copy of 'Who's +Who'."—"Truth."</p> + +<p class='center' style="font-size: x-large;"><b>WHO'S WHO<br /> +1903.</b></p> + +<p class='center'>Price 5/-net.</p> + +<p class='center'><i>THIS YEAR'S ISSUE CONTAINS OVER 15,000 BIOGRAPHIES.</i></p> + +<p class='center'>AN ANTHOLOGY +<br /> +OF +<br /> +Press Opinions of the 1902 Edition.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"The handiest, cheapest, and most useful book of the kind +published."—"The best compendium of autobiographies of the world's +leading men."—"Open it anywhere and your eyes will ever be +opened."—"Invaluable! Indispensable!"—"The most compendious book of +reference issued."—"When there is a conflict of authority it may +generally be assumed that 'Who's Who' is right."—"'Who's Who' may be +regarded as a <i>sine quâ non</i> to a business man."—"As indispensable as a +local directory in a business office. This excellent work is the nearest +approach to an English Vapereau we possess."—"Almost as necessary as +daily bread."—"A biographical dictionary which it would be difficult to +do without: 1,500 pages chock-full of information. One of those books +without which no reference library is complete."</p></div> + +<p class='center'>PUBLISHED BY A. & C. BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON.</p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Strand District, by +Sir Walter Besant and Geraldine Edith Mitton + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE STRAND DISTRICT *** + +***** This file should be named 25508-h.htm or 25508-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/5/5/0/25508/ + +Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Strand District + The Fascination of London + +Author: Sir Walter Besant + Geraldine Edith Mitton + +Release Date: May 17, 2008 [EBook #25508] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE STRAND DISTRICT *** + + + + +Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + + + + +_THE FASCINATION OF LONDON_ + +THE STRAND DISTRICT + + +_IN THIS SERIES._ + +Cloth, price 1s. 6d. net; leather, price 2s. net each. + + +THE STRAND DISTRICT. + +By SIR WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON. + + +WESTMINSTER. + +By SIR WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON. + + +HAMPSTEAD AND MARYLEBONE. + +By G. E. MITTON. Edited by SIR WALTER BESANT. + + +CHELSEA. + +By G. E. MITTON. Edited by SIR WALTER BESANT. + + +KENSINGTON. + +By G. E. MITTON. Edited by SIR WALTER BESANT. + + +HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY. + +By Sir WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON. + + +HAMMERSMITH, PUTNEY, AND FULHAM. + +By G. E. MITTON and J. C. GEIKIE. + + +MAYFAIR, BELGRAVIA, AND PIMLICO. + +_In the press._ + + + + +[Illustration: HOLYWELL STREET, STRAND + +(_Demolished 1901_)] + + + + +The Fascination of London + +THE STRAND +DISTRICT + +BY +SIR WALTER BESANT +AND +G. E. MITTON + +LONDON +ADAM & CHARLES BLACK +1903 + + +_Published July, 1902_ + +_Reprinted, with corrections, April, 1903_ + + + + +PREFATORY NOTE + + +A survey of London, a record of the greatest of all cities, that should +preserve her history, her historical and literary associations, her +mighty buildings, past and present, a book that should comprise all that +Londoners love, all that they ought to know of their heritage from the +past--this was the work on which Sir Walter Besant was engaged when he +died. + +As he himself said of it: "This work fascinates me more than anything +else I've ever done. Nothing at all like it has ever been attempted +before. I've been walking about London for the last thirty years, and I +find something fresh in it every day." + +He had seen one at least of his dreams realized in the People's Palace, +but he was not destined to see this mighty work on London take form. He +died when it was still incomplete. His scheme included several volumes +on the history of London as a whole. These he finished up to the end of +the eighteenth century, and they form a record of the great city +practically unique, and exceptionally interesting, compiled by one who +had the qualities both of novelist and historian, and who knew how to +make the dry bones live. The volume on the eighteenth century, which Sir +Walter called a "very big chapter indeed, and particularly interesting," +will shortly be issued by Messrs. A. and C. Black, who had undertaken +the publication of the Survey. + +Sir Walter's idea was that the next two volumes should be a regular and +systematic perambulation of London by different persons, so that the +history of each parish should be complete in itself. This was a very +original feature in the great scheme, and one in which he took the +keenest interest. Enough has been done of this section to warrant its +issue in the form originally intended, but in the meantime it is +proposed to select some of the most interesting of the districts and +publish them as a series of booklets, attractive alike to the local +inhabitant and the student of London, because much of the interest and +the history of London lie in these street associations. For this purpose +Chelsea, Westminster, the Strand, and Hampstead have been selected for +publication first, and have been revised and brought up to date. + +The difficulty of finding a general title for the series was very great, +for the title desired was one that would express concisely the undying +charm of London--that is to say, the continuity of her past history +with the present times. In streets and stones, in names and palaces, her +history is written for those who can read it, and the object of the +series is to bring forward these associations, and to make them plain. +The solution of the difficulty was found in the words of the man who +loved London and planned the great scheme. The work "fascinated" him, +and it was because of these associations that it did so. These links +between past and present in themselves largely constitute The +Fascination of London. + +G. E. M. + + + + +CONTENTS + + + PAGE + +PREFATORY NOTE vii + + +PART I + +WEST AND NORTH OF CHARING CROSS 1 + + +PART II + +PICCADILLY AND ST. JAMES'S SQUARE 37 + + +PART III + +THE STRAND 67 + + +INDEX 112 + +_Map at end of Volume._ + + + + +THE STRAND DISTRICT + + + + +PART I + +WEST AND NORTH OF CHARING CROSS + + +Beginning at the extreme westerly limit of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, +on the south side of Hyde Park Corner, we find ourselves in the Green +Park. This is a triangular piece of ground, which was formerly called +Little or Upper St. James's Park. It has not much history. In 1642 +fortifications were erected on Constitution Hill, and at the end of the +seventeenth century this same spot was a noted place for duels. +Fireworks on a great scale, with public entertainments, took place in +the park at the Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle, and again in 1814. On +Constitution Hill three attempts were made on the life of Queen +Victoria. The chief object of interest in the park is Buckingham Palace, +which is not altogether in St. Martin's; in fact, the greater part, +including most of the grounds, is in the adjacent parish of St. +George's, Hanover Square. The palace is a dreary building, without any +pretence of architectural merit, but it attracts attention as the London +home of the English Sovereign. + +It stands on the site of Arlington House, so called from its connection +with Henry Bennet, Earl of Arlington (the Earl whose initial supplied +one of the _a's_ in the word "Cabal"). John Sheffield, Duke of +Buckingham, bought the house and rebuilt it in 1703, naming it after +himself, and including in the grounds part of the land belonging to Tart +Hall, which stood at the head of St. James's Street, and has been +mentioned in the account of the adjoining parish of St. Margaret's, +Westminster. Buckingham House was bought from Sir Charles Sheffield, son +of the above-mentioned Duke, by the Crown in 1762. In 1775 it was +granted to Queen Charlotte as a place of residence in lieu of Somerset +House, and at this period it was known as Queen's House. George IV. +employed Nash to renovate the building, and the restoration was so +complete as to amount to an entire rebuilding, in the style considered +then fashionable; the result is the present dreary building with +stuccoed frontage. The interior is handsome enough, and, like that of +many a London house of less importance, is considerably more cheerful +than the exterior. The chief staircase is of white marble, and the rooms +are richly decorated. The state apartments include drawing-rooms, +saloons, and the throne-room, which is sixty-four feet in length. The +picture-gallery contains a collection of pictures made by George IV., +chiefly of the Dutch school; it includes works of Rembrandt, Rubens, +Vandyck, Duerer, Cuyp, Ruysdael, Vandervelde, and others. + +The grounds are about forty acres in extent, and contain a large piece +of ornamental water, on the shore of which is a pavilion, or +summer-house, with frescoes by Eastlake, Maclise, Landseer, Dyce, and +others, illustrating Milton's "Comus." The channel of the Tyburn, now a +sewer, passes under the palace. The Marble Arch, at the north-east +corner of Hyde Park, was first designed to face the palace, where it +stood until 1850. + +The palace is partly on the site of the well-known Mulberry Gardens, a +place of entertainment in the seventeenth century. These gardens +originated in an order of James I., who wished to encourage the rearing +of silkworms in England. This project, like many others of the same +King, proved a failure, and the gardens were turned into a place of +public recreation. The frequenters were of the fashionable classes, and +came in the evening to sit in small arbours, and "be regaled with +cheesecakes, syllabubs, and wine sweetened with sugar." In this form the +place was extremely popular, and is often mentioned in contemporary +literature. Dryden came there to eat tarts with "Mrs." Anne Reeve, and +doubtless Evelyn and Pepys often strolled about in the gay crowd, a +crowd much gayer than it would now be--in the matter of costume, at all +events. The scene of "The Mulberry Gardens," a play by Sir Charles +Sedley (1668) is laid here. + +Stafford House, not far from St. James's Palace, and overlooking the +Green Park, is now tenanted by the Duke of Sutherland. It was originally +built for the Duke of York, brother to George IV., but he died before +its completion. It stands on the site of an older building, called +Godolphin House, and also occupies the site of the Queen's Library +formed by Caroline, wife of George IV. + +St. James's Palace is divided into many sets of apartments and suites of +rooms, and in this way resembles more the ancient than the modern idea +of a palace. On its site once stood a hospital for fourteen leprous +women, which was founded, as Stow quaintly says, "long before the time +of any man's memory." Maitland says the hospital must have been standing +before 1100 A.D., as it was then visited by the Abbot of Westminster. +Eight brethren were subsequently added to the institution. Several +benevolent bequests of land were made to it from time to time. In 1450 +the custody of the hospital was granted perpetually to Eton College by +Henry VI. In 1531 Henry VIII. obtained some of the neighbouring land +from the Abbey of Westminster, and in the following year he took the +hospital also, giving lands in Suffolk in exchange for it. There is +reason to believe that he pensioned off the ejected inmates. At any +rate, having demolished the House of Mercy, he proceeded to build for +himself a palace, which is supposed to have been planned by Holbein, +under the direction of Cromwell, Earl of Essex. Henry VIII. was too much +occupied in taking possession of Wolsey's palaces to bestow very much of +his time on his own new building, though he occasionally resided here +before he acquired Whitehall. Edward VI. did not live at St James's +Palace regularly, but Queen Mary patronized it, preferring it to +Whitehall. It was granted to Prince Henry during the reign of James I., +and Charles I. spent the last three days before his execution here. The +Prince known as the "Pretender" was born in one of the palace +apartments, and many historians have commented on the fact that this +chamber was conveniently near a small back-staircase, up which a +new-born infant could have been smuggled. During the reign of King +William the palace was fitted up as a residence for Prince George of +Denmark and Princess Anne. When the Princess ascended the throne, the +palace became the regular residence of the Court, which it continued to +be until the accession of Queen Victoria, who preferred Buckingham +Palace. + +The only parts remaining of King Henry's building are the gatehouse, +some turrets, a mantelpiece in the presence chamber, which bears the +initials H. and A. (Henry and Anne Boleyn) with a true lovers' knot, the +Chapel Royal (which has, of course, been renovated), and the +tapestry-room. Levees are still held at the palace. + +On the west of the gatehouse a series of apartments were being prepared +for the Duke of Clarence at the time of his death, and were afterwards +assigned to the present Prince and Princess of Wales. At the west end is +Clarence House, in the occupation of the Duke of Connaught. This was +occupied by the King of Prussia and his sons on their visit to England +in 1814. The Duchess of Kent resided here until 1861. + +The Lord Chamberlain's offices and residence, and also the official +residence of the Keeper of the Privy Purse, are among the official +chambers in the palace. There are minor offices also, those of the Clerk +of the Works, and the Gentlemen of the Wine Cellar; there are state +apartments and the quarters of the Gentlemen at Arms and the Yeomen of +the Guard. There are several courts in the palace, namely, the +Ambassadors' Court, Engine Court, Friary Court, and Colour Court. There +have been various chapels connected with the palace, but the only two +of importance are the Chapel Royal and German Chapel, which still +remain. + +The Chapel Royal is supposed to be on the site of the chapel of the +ancient hospital, and various Norman remains dug up in the course of +repairs favour this supposition. The roof is beautifully decorated in +panels by Holbein; the date of its completion is supposed to be 1540. +Prince George and Princess Anne; Frederick, Prince of Wales; George IV.; +Queen Victoria; and the Empress Frederick, were all married in this +Chapel. + +The German Chapel was founded in 1700 by Princess Anne; service was held +in it once on Sundays up to the present reign, but has now been +discontinued. + +Just opposite to the palace is Marlborough House, the residence of the +Prince and Princess of Wales. The house was built in 1709 at the public +expense, as a national compliment to the Duke of Marlborough. Sir +Christopher Wren was the architect. After the death of the third Duke it +was sublet to Leopold, subsequently King of the Belgians. Queen Adelaide +lived in it after the death of King William IV. The building was +afterwards used as a gallery for the pictures known as the Vernon +Collection. But in 1850 it was settled on King Edward VII., then Prince +of Wales, when he should attain his eighteenth year, which he did nine +years later. The interior is decorated with beautiful mural paintings +executed by La Guerre; many of these represent the battles of the famous +Duke of Marlborough. On the removal of the King to Buckingham Palace the +present Prince of Wales comes in his turn to Marlborough House. + +Carlton House Terrace owes its name to Carlton House, built by Henry +Boyle, Baron Carlton, in Queen Anne's reign. It was afterwards sold to +Frederick, Prince of Wales, and was occupied subsequently by George IV. +before he succeeded to the throne. J. T. Smith says: "Many a saturnalia +did those walls witness in the days of his hot youth." Princess +Charlotte was born here. In 1811 the ceremony of conferring the regency +upon Prince George was enacted at Carlton House, and in the June +following the Prince gave a magnificent supper to 2,000 guests. In 1827 +the house was pulled down. It stood right across the end of the present +Waterloo Place, where now a flight of steps lead into the park. At the +head of the steps is the York Column of granite, 124 feet high, designed +by Wyatt, and surmounted by a figure of the Duke of York, son of George +III. + +One of the sights of London in the seventeenth century, was the garden +which lay between St. James's Park and Charing Cross, called Spring +Gardens. The place was laid out as a bowling-green; it had also butts, +a bathing-pond, a spring made to scatter water all around by turning a +wheel. There was also an ordinary, which charged 6s. for a dinner--then +an enormous price--and a tavern where drinking of wine was carried on +all day long. In the "Character of England," 1659, attributed to Evelyn, +the following account of Spring Gardens is found: + +"The manner is as the company returned [from Hyde Park] to alight at the +Spring Gardens so called, in order to the Parke, as our Thuilleries is +to the Course; the inclosure not disagreeable, for the solemness of the +grove is broken by the warbling of the birds, as it opens into the +spacious walks at St. James's; but the company walk in it at such a +rate, you would think that all the ladies were so many Atalantas +contending with their wooers.... But fast as they run they stay there so +long as if they wanted not time to finish the race; for it is usual here +to find some of the young company till midnight; and the thickets of the +garden seem to be contrived to all advantages of gallantry; after they +have been refreshed with the collation, which is here seldom omitted, at +a certain cabaret, in the middle of this paradise, where the forbidden +fruits are certain trifling tarts, neats' tongues, salacious meats, and +bad Rhenish; for which the gallants pay sauce, as indeed they do at all +such houses throughout England." + +After the Restoration the gardens were built over. Prince Rupert lived +here 1674-1682. Colley Cibber, actor and prolific dramatist, had a house +"near Bull's Head Tavern in Spring Gardens, 1711-14"; Sir Philip Warwick +and George Canning were also among the residents. + +"Locket's ordinary, a house of entertainment much frequented by gentry," +was on the site of Drummond's Bank: + + "Come, at a crown ahead ourselves we'll treat: + Champagne our liquor, and ragouts our meat; + + * * * * * + + With evening wheels we'll drive about the Park, + Finish at Locket's, and reel home i' the dark." + +Vague rumour assigns an earlier house to Cromwell on the same spot. The +bank was established about 1712 by Mr. Andrew Drummond, a goldsmith. +George III. transferred his account from Coutts' to Drummond's when he +was displeased with the former firm, and he desired Messrs. Drummond to +make no advances to Frederick, Prince of Wales, who also had an account +here. This order was obeyed, with the consequences that in the +succeeding reign the royal account was transferred again to Messrs. +Coutts. The County Council offices are at present a very noticeable +feature in Spring Gardens, and the aspect of the place is no longer +rural. + +The part of Whitehall included in St. Martin's parish is not very +large, yet it is of some importance. On the west side is Old Scotland +Yard, for long associated with the headquarters of the Metropolitan +Police, now removed to New Scotland Yard. Stow says: + +"On the left hand from Charing Cross are also divers tenements lately +built till ye come to a large plot of ground inclosed with brick, and is +called Scotland, where great buildings have been for receipt of the +Kings of Scotland and other estates of that country, for Margaret Queen +of Scots and sister to King Henry VIII. had her abiding here when she +came to England after the death of her husband, as the Kings of Scotland +had in former times when they came to the Parliament of England." + +Here for some time was the official residence of the Surveyor of Works +to the Crown, and Inigo Jones and Sir Christopher Wren were both +occupants. Sir J. Vanbrugh also resided at Scotland Yard, and as +Secretary to the Council Milton had an official residence here before he +went to Petty France, as described in the book on Westminster in the +same series. + +Craig's or Cragg's Court, in which is the Royal Almonry office, is shown +in old maps. Strype speaks of it as a "very handsome large Court, with +new buildings fit for gentry of Repute." It was built in 1702, and is +supposed to have been called after the father of Secretary Craggs, who +was a friend of Pope and Addison. Woodfall, the publisher, had a West +End office in the court, and Romney the painter lived there. There is a +fine old Queen Anne house still standing at the back of the court. + +Opposite Scotland Yard is the Admiralty, built round a courtyard, and +hidden by a stone screen surmounted by sea-horses. The screen was the +work of the brothers Adam, and was put up to hide a building which even +the taste of George III.'s reign declared to be insufferable. This had +been built for the Admiralty in 1726, and replaced old Wallingford +House, so called from its first owner, Viscount Wallingford, who built +it in the reign of James I. George Villiers, the well-known Duke of +Buckingham, bought the house, and used it until his death. Archbishop +Usher saw the execution of Charles I. from the roof, and swooned with +horror at the sight. The house was occupied by Cromwell's son-in-law, +General Fleetwood, and in 1680 became Government property. In one of the +large rooms the body of Nelson lay in state before his national funeral. + +St. Catherine's Hermitage, Charing Cross, stood somewhere near Charing +Cross. It is believed to have been about the position of the +post-office. It belonged to the See of Llandaff, and was occasionally +used as a lodging by such Bishops of that See as came to attend the +Court and had no town-house. + +St. Mary Rounceval, on the site of Northumberland House, was founded by +William Marischal, Earl of Pembroke, in Henry III.'s reign. The Earl +gave several tenements to the Prior of Rounceval, in Navarre, who +established here the chief house of the priory in England. The hospital +was finally suppressed by Edward VI. The little village of Charing then +stood between London and Westminster. It formed part of the great +demesne belonging to the Abbey of Westminster, and was inhabited chiefly +by Thames fishermen, who had a settlement on the bank, and by the +farmers of the Westminster estates. The derivation of the name from _La +Chere Reine_ is purely fanciful. + +There is certainly no part of London which has been so much changed as +Charing Cross. In other parts the houses are changed, but the streets +remain. Here the whole disposition of the streets has been transformed. +The secondary part of the name recalls the beautiful cross, the last of +the nine which marked the places where Queen Eleanor's coffin rested on +its journey from Lincolnshire to Westminster Abbey. The cross was +destroyed by the fanatical zeal of the Reformers. The equestrian statue +of Charles I., cast in 1633 by Le Soeur, occupies the site of the +cross. It had not been set up when the Civil War broke out, and was sold +by the Parliament to John Rivit, a brazier, who lived by the Holborn +Conduit, on condition that it should be broken up. John Rivit, however, +buried the statue, and dug it up again after the Restoration. It was not +until 1674 that it was actually erected, on a new pedestal made by +Grinling Gibbons, in the place which it now occupies, which is the site +of the old cross, the place where the regicides were executed, and where +the Charing Cross pillory stood. It is curious to remark on the +preservation of the site of the cross. It was apparently railed in; some +of the stones of which it was made were used in paving Whitehall. +Ballads were written on its destruction: + + "Undone, undone, the lawyers are; + They wander about the towne, + Nor can find the way to Westminster + Now Charing Cross is downe. + At the end of the Strand they make a stand, + Swearing they are at a loss, + And chaffing say that's not the way, + They must go by Charing Cross." + + CUNNINGHAM. + +Many of the regicides were executed at this spot in Charles II.'s reign, +within sight of the place where they had murdered their King. These men, +according to the brutal temper of the times, were cut down when half +hanged and disembowelled before a great concourse of people. Pepys +mentions going to the executions as to a show. Later the pillory stood +here in which, among others, Titus Oates suffered. But, besides these +dismal reminiscences, Charing Cross was at one time famed for its +taverns and festive places of amusement, and was the resort of wits and +literati in the eighteenth century. Dr. Johnson speaks of the "full tide +of human existence" being at Charing Cross, and if he could see it now +he might be confirmed in his opinion. + +At the top of the present Northumberland Avenue stood formerly +Northumberland House, the last of the Strand palaces to be destroyed, +and until its destruction the chief glory and ornament of the street and +Charing Cross. It was never an episcopal palace, having been built in +1605 by the Earl of Northampton; from him it went to the Earl of +Suffolk, and was called for a time Suffolk House; in 1642 it fell into +the hands of the Earl of Northumberland, and by marriage into those of +the Duke of Somerset until 1749, when the daughter of the Duke of +Somerset succeeded, and by her marriage with Sir Hugh Smithson the house +became the property of this family, now Dukes of Northumberland, until +its compulsory sale in the year 1874. The house originally consisted of +three sides of a quadrangle, the fourth side lying open with gardens +stretching down to the river. The front was wrongly attributed to Inigo +Jones. The house had been repaired or rebuilt in many places, so that +there was not much that was ancient left in its later days. By the side +of Northumberland House formerly ran Hartshorn Lane, now entirely +obliterated. Ben Jonson was born here, and lived here in his childhood. + +Trafalgar Square was built over the site of what was formerly the Royal +Mews, a building of very ancient foundation; and a rookery of obscure +and ill-famed lanes and alleys on the west and north of St. Martin's +Church, popularly known as the Bermudas, and afterwards the Caribbean +Islands. In the midst of the mews stood a small and remarkable building +called Queen Elizabeth's Bath. It is almost impossible to estimate the +difference between the then and the now, in regard to this particular +part. St. Martin's Lane continued right up to Northumberland House, +where the lion of the proud Percies stiffened his tail on the parapet. +The house stood across the present head of Northumberland Avenue. The +Royal Mews themselves were where the fountains now splash, and on the +further side of them was Hedge Lane. + +Pennant says the Mews was so called from having been used for the King's +falcons--at least, from the time of Richard III. to Henry VIII. In the +latter King's reign the royal horses were stabled here, but the name +Mews was retained, and has come to be applied to any town range of +stabling. The mews were removed to make way for the National Gallery +about 1834. Geoffrey Chaucer, the poet, was Clerk of the King's Works, +and of the Mews at Charing about the end of Richard II.'s reign. During +the Commonwealth Colonel Joyce was imprisoned in the Mews by order of +Oliver Cromwell. + +It is supposed that we are indebted to William IV. for the idea of a +square to be called Trafalgar in honour of Nelson, and to contain some +worthy memorial of the hero. The total height of the monument, designed +by Railton, is 193 feet, and its design is from that of one of the +columns of the Temple of Mars at Rome. The statue, which looks so small +from the ground, is really 17 feet high, nearly three times the height +of a man; it was the work of E. H. Baily, R.A. The pedestal has bronze +bas-reliefs on its four sides, representing the four greatest of +Nelson's battles, Trafalgar, St. Vincent, Aboukir, and Copenhagen. The +massive lions on the extended pedestal were designed by Sir Edwin +Landseer. + +Of the other statues, that of George IV. is by Sir Francis Chantrey, and +was originally intended for the top of the Marble Arch, and that of +General Gordon was designed by Hamo Thorneycroft. Bronze blocks let into +the north wall of the square contain the measures of the secondary +standards of length, and were inserted here in 1876 by the Standards +Department of the Board of Trade. The Union Club and College of +Physicians are on the west side of the square. The latter was founded by +Dr. Linacre, physician to King Henry VIII. + +The National Gallery was not designed as it now stands, but grew +gradually. The idea of a collection of national pictures began in 1824, +when the Angerstein Collection of thirty-eight pictures was purchased. +The building began in 1832, and was opened six years later, but there +were then only six rooms devoted to the national collection, the +remainder being used by the Royal Academy of Arts. The Academy, however, +betook itself to Burlington House in 1869, and subsequently the National +Gallery was enlarged, and is now well worthy of its name. The English +are taunted with not being an artistic nation; this may be, but they +recognise merit when they see it, and the national collection need fear +comparison with no other in the world. The sections of the gallery +include Italian schools, schools of the Netherlands and Germany, +Spanish, French, and British schools; in the last named the Turner +Collection claims two rooms. + +St. Martin's Church was founded by Henry VIII., who disliked to see the +funerals of the inhabitants passing through Whitehall on their way to +St. Margaret's, Westminster, but there had probably been an +ecclesiastical building on or near this site from a very early date. In +1222 there was a controversy between the Bishop of London and the Dean +and Chapter of St. Paul's on the one hand and the Abbot and Canons of +Westminster on the other, as to the exemption of the chapel and convent +of the latter from the jurisdiction of the former. The matter was +settled in favour of Westminster. It is probable that this chapel was +for the use of the monks when they visited their convent garden. + +In 1721 the old church was pulled down, and a new one built from the +designs of Gibbs the architect, whose bust stands in the building near +the entrance. A rate was levied on the parish for expenses, but money +poured in so liberally that a gift of L500 toward the enrichment of the +altar was declined. + +The building has been derided, but it has the merit of a bold +conception. Ralph in "Publick Buildings" says: "The portico is at once +elegant and august, and the steeple above it ought to be considered one +of the most tolerable in town. The east end is remarkably elegant, and +very justly challenges a particular applause; in short, if there is +anything wanting in this fabric, it is a little more elevation." + +The only original features in the interior are the two royal pews, not +now used, which look down on the altar. St. Martin's is the royal +parish, including in its boundaries Buckingham Palace and St. James's, +but the births of the Royal Family are not registered here, as has been +frequently stated. There is no monument in the church of any intrinsic +interest, and the only other noticeable details are two beautiful mosaic +panels on either side of the chancel, put up by Lady Frederick Cavendish +to the memory of her husband. + +Among the names of those buried in the old church is that of Vansomer, a +portrait-painter. Nell Gwynne, Roubiliac, and Jack Sheppard--whose first +theft took place at Rummer's Tavern, near Charing Cross--lie in the +burial-ground. There is a large crypt, with vaulted roof, below the +church, and here are several monuments from the old building, and also +the ancient whipping-post. + +Before the erection of the palaces along the riverside the fishermen of +the Thames lived beside the river bank at Charing Cross. A piece of +ground in the churchyard of St. Martin's was set apart for their use and +kept separate. Meantime, as one after the other of the Bishops' +town-houses were built, the fishermen found themselves pushed farther up +the river, until finally they were fairly driven away, and established +themselves at Lambeth, where the last of them lived in the early part +of the nineteenth century. Their burial-ground, meantime, was preserved +even after they had disappeared. The churchyard of St. Martin's was +curtailed in 1826, and the parish burial-ground removed to Pratt Street, +Camden Town. + +Behind the National Gallery is the National Portrait Gallery, opened in +1896, and opposite to it St. Martin's Town Hall, with the parish +emblem--St. Martin dividing his cloak with a beggar--in bas-relief on +the frontage. + +Charing Cross Road is very modern. It was opened in 1887, and swept over +a number of narrow courts and alleys. + +For St. Martin's Lane, see p. 16. + +In this is the Public Library, where some watercolours and old prints of +vanished houses are hung on the staircase. There is also the +eighteenth-century plan from Strype's Survey, well worth studying. + +Leicester Square, at first known as Leicester Fields, is associated with +the Sidneys, Earls of Leicester, who had a town-house on the north side, +where the Empire Music-hall is now. This was a large brick building, +with a courtyard before it and a Dutch garden at the back. During the +reign of Charles I. and in the time of the Commonwealth the Sidneys +tenanted it, but later it was occupied by foreign Ambassadors. +Elizabeth, Queen of Bohemia, took it in 1662, and afterwards it was +aptly described by Pennant as "the pouting-place of Princes"; for +George, son of George I., established here a rival Court when he had +quarrelled with his father, and his son Frederick, the Prince of Wales, +did precisely the same thing. During the latter tenancy a large building +adjoining, called Savile or Ailesbury House, was amalgamated with +Leicester House. George III. was living here when hailed King. Savile +House stood until the Gordon Riots, when it was completely stripped and +gutted by the rioters. The square was presented to the public in 1874 by +Baron Albert Grant, M.P. The gift is recorded on the pedestal of the +statue of Shakespeare standing in the centre. + +The square was for long a favourite place for duels. A line drawn +diagonally from the north-east to the south-west corner roughly +indicates the boundary of St Martin's parish, the upper half of the +square being in St. Anne's, Soho. + +The associations of this part are numerous and very interesting. The +busts of the four men standing in the corners of the centre garden have +all some local connection. They are those of Hogarth, Sir Joshua +Reynolds, Sir Isaac Newton, and John Hunter. Hogarth's house was on the +east, on the site of Tenison's School, and next to it was that of John +Hunter, the famous surgeon. Sir Joshua Reynolds bought No. 47 on the +west side in 1760, and lived in it until his death. Sir Isaac Newton +lived in the little street off the south side of the square, at the back +of the big new Dental Hospital. His house is still standing, and bears a +tablet of the Society of Arts. It is quite unpretentious--a +stucco-covered building with little dormer-windows in the roof. The +great scientist came here in 1710, when he was nearly sixty, and his +fame was then world-wide. Men from all parts of Europe sought the dull +little street in order to converse with one whose power had wrought a +revolution in the methods of scientific thought. In the same house Miss +Burney afterwards lived with her father. Sir Thomas Lawrence took +apartments at No. 4, Leicester Square, in 1786, when only seventeen, but +he had already begun to exhibit at the Royal Academy. The square was for +long a favourite place of residence with foreigners, and has not even +yet lost a slightly un-English aspect. + +Archbishop Tenison's School is at the south-east corner of the square. +Its founder, who was successively Bishop of Lincoln and Archbishop of +Canterbury, intended that it should counterbalance a flourishing Roman +Catholic school in the Savoy precincts. Among old boys may be mentioned +Postlethwaite, afterwards Master of St. Paul's; Charles Mathews, when +very young; Horne Tooke a former Lord Mayor of London; and Liston who +was for a time usher. + +As stated above, the northern half of the square is in the parish of St. +Anne's, Soho, a parish now tenanted to a very large extent by +foreigners, chiefly French and Italians. Shaftesbury Avenue, running +diagonally through the parish, is of very recent origin. + +Soho has been derived from the watchword of Monmouth at Sedgemoor, +because the Duke had a house in Soho, then King's Square. It is much +more likely that the reverse is the case, and the Duke took the +watchword from the locality in which he lived, for the word Soho occurs +in the rate-books long before the Battle of Sedgemoor was fought. In +1634 So-howe appears in State papers; and various other spellings are +extant, as Soe-hoe, So-hoe. This district was at one time a favourite +hunting-ground, and Halliwell-Phillipps in the "Dictionary of Archaic +and Provincial Words" suggests that the name has arisen from a favourite +hunting cry, "So-ho!" + +The parish was first made independent of St. Martin's in 1678. Soho has +always been a favourite locality with foreigners. There were three +distinct waves of emigration which flooded over it: first after the +revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1635; then in 1798, during the +Reign of Terror; and thirdly in 1871, when many Communists who had +escaped from Paris found their way to England. At the present time half +the population of the parish consists of foreigners, of which French and +Italians preponderate, but Swiss, Germans, and specimens of various +other nationalities, are frequently to be met with in the streets. + +The parish church of St. Anne's was so named "after the mother of the +Virgin Mary and in compliment to Princess Anne." The site was a piece of +ground known as Kemp's Field, and the architect selected was Sir +Christopher Wren. The building is in all respects like others of its +period, but has a curious spire added later. This has been described as +"two hogsheads placed crosswise, in the ends of which are the dials of +the clock," and above is a kind of pyramid, ending in a vane. + +The old churchyard lies above the level of the street, and has been +turned into a public garden. Facing the principal entrance in Wardour +Street is a stone monument to King Theodore of Corsica, and a small +crown on the stone marks his rank. King Theodore died in this parish +December 11, 1756, immediately after leaving the King's Bench Prison, by +the benefit of the Act of Insolvency, in consequence of which he +registered his kingdom of Corsica for the use of his creditors. + +His epitaph was written by Horace Walpole: + + "The grave, great teacher, to a level brings + Heroes and beggars, galley slaves and kings. + But Theodore this moral learned ere dead: + Fate poured its lessons on his living head, + Bestowed a kingdom, but denied him bread." + +Close by is a monument to the essayist Hazlitt, born 1778, died 1830. +The inscription says that he lived to see his deepest wishes gratified +as he expressed them in his essay on the "Fear of Death," and proceeds +to set forth at considerable length the tenor of those wishes. + +During the dinner-hour, when the weather is fine, the graveyard seats +are filled by the very poorest of the poor, many of them aliens, far +from their own country, and sad beneath the gray skies of the land that +gives them bread, but denies them sun. + +In the registers are recorded the baptisms of two of the children of +George II., and five of the children of Frederick, Prince of Wales, born +at Leicester House, in this parish. + +Wardour Street has long been celebrated for its shops of old china, +bric-a-brac, and furniture. It can claim Flaxman among its bygone +residents. + +Dean Street is a long and narrow thoroughfare, a favourite residence +with artists at the end of the eighteenth century; the names of Hayman, +Baily, Ward, and Belines are all to be found here in association. Sir +James Thornhill lived at No. 75, where there are the remains of some +curious staircase paintings by him, in the composition of which he is +said to have been assisted by his son-in-law, Hogarth. Turner, the +father of the great painter, was a hairdresser in Dean Street, and +Nollekens' father died in No. 28. In the house adjoining the Royalty +Theatre Madame Vestris was born. + +Frith Street in old maps is marked "Thrift Street," a name by no means +inappropriate at the present time. It also has its associations, and can +claim the birth of Sir Samuel Romilly, the great law reformer, who lived +until the early part of the nineteenth century, and whose father was a +jeweller here; the early boyhood of Mozart, and the death of Hazlitt, +which took place in furnished lodgings. The failure of his publishers +had made him short of money; he was harassed by pecuniary cares, yet his +last words were: "I've had a happy life." + +The following advertisement bearing date March 8, 1765, is worth +quotation: "Mr. Mozart, the father of the celebrated Young Musical +Family who have so justly raised the Admiration of the greatest +musicians of Europe, proposes to give the Public an opportunity of +hearing these young Prodigies perform both in public and private, by +giving on the 13th of this month a concert which will be chiefly +conducted by his Son, a boy of eight years of age, with all the +overtures of his own composition. Tickets may be had at 5s. each at Mr. +Mozart's, or at Mr. Williamson's in Thrift Street, Soho, where Ladies +and Gentlemen will find the Family at Home every day in the week from 12 +to 2 o'clock and have an opportunity of putting his talents to a more +particular proof by giving him anything to play at sight or any Music +without a Bass, which he will write upon the spot without recurring to +his harpsichord." + +In this street there are many interesting relics of bygone splendour. +No. 9--now to let--has a splendid well staircase with spiral balusters. +The walls and ceiling of this are lined with oil-paintings of figures +larger than life. These have unfortunately been somewhat knocked about +during successive tenancies, but clearly show that the house was one of +considerable importance in past times. It was in lodgings in this street +that Mrs. Inchbald wrote her "Simple Story," published 1791, in four +volumes, which was an immediate success. She was an actress as well as +an author, and a friend of the Kembles. Her dramatic writings were very +many. + +At No. 13, Greek Street were Wedgwood's exhibition-rooms. In No. 27 De +Quincey used to sleep on the floor by permission of Brumel, the +money-lender's attorney. + +On the other side of Shaftesbury Avenue, and parallel with it, is +Gerrard Street, a dingy, unpretending place, but thick with memories and +associations. It was built about 1681, and was called after Gerard, Earl +of Macclesfield. Wheatley quotes from the Bagford MSS. of the British +Museum to the effect that "Henry, Prince of Wales, son of James I., +caused a piece of ground near Leicester Fields to be walled in for the +exercise of arms. Here he built a house, which was standing at the +Restoration. It afterwards fell into the hands of Lord Gerard, who let +the ground out to build upon." Hatton speaks of "Macclesfield House, +alias Gerrard House, a well-built structure situate in Gerrard Street +... now (1708) in possession of Lord Mohun." Dryden lived in Gerrard +Street in a house on the site of one marked by a tablet of the Society +of Arts. He died here, and his funeral was interrupted by a drunken +frolic of Mohocks headed by Lord Jeffreys. Close by is an hotel, where +once Edmund Burke resided; opposite to him J. T. Smith lodged, as he +tells us in "Nollekens and his Times," and he could look into Burke's +rooms when they were lighted, and see the patient student at work until +the small hours of the morning. Charles Kemble and his family also +resided in this street. + +On the site of the Westminster General Dispensary was a tavern named the +Turk's Head, where the well-known literary club had its origin. The +members were at first twelve in number, including Sir Joshua Reynolds, +Dr. Johnson, Edmund Burke, Dr. Nugent, Topham Beauclerk, Mr. Langton, +Dr. Goldsmith, and Sir J. Hawkins. In 1772 the number of the members was +increased to twenty, and instead of meeting weekly, on Mondays, for a +supper, they met every fortnight, on a Friday, and dined together. David +Hume was here in 1758, and the actor Edmund Kean passed most of his +boyhood in this street, sheltered by a couple who had adopted him when +his mother deserted him in Frith Street. All his early boyhood is +associated with this neighbourhood; he was found in Frith Street, and +his schools were in Orange Court, Leicester Square, and Chapel Street, +Soho. The dispensary is in itself interesting, being one of the very +oldest institutions of the kind, established in 1774. + +Charing Cross Road follows very nearly the course of the old Hog Lane, +later Crown Street, which bounded the parish on the east. St. Mary the +Virgin's Church is on the west side, and the building has had many +vicissitudes. In 1677 it was erected by the Greek congregation in Soho, +and had the distinction of being the first church of that community in +England. It was afterwards used by a French Protestant community, and +then by a body of Dissenters. In 1849 it stood in imminent peril of +being turned into a dancing-saloon, but was rescued and became Church of +England. + +The very centre and nucleus of the parish has always been Soho Square, +which was built in the reign of Charles II., and was at first called +King Square--not in compliment to the monarch, but after a man named +Gregory King, who was associated with the earliest buildings. It is a +place of singular attractiveness, an oasis in a desert; many of the +houses are picturesque. The square garden is not large, but it is +planted with fine trees. From the very beginning the square was an +aristocratic locality, and the houses tenanted by the nobility; the most +important of these, Monmouth House, occupied the whole of the southern +side. This was architecturally a very extraordinary building, and the +interior was very magnificent. "The principal room on the ground-floor +was a dining-room, the carved and gilt panels of which contained +whole-length pictures. The principal room on the first-floor was lined +with blue satin superbly decorated with pheasants and other birds in +gold. The chimneypiece was richly ornamented with fruit and foliage; in +the centre, within a wreath of dark leaves, was a circular recess for a +bust" ("Nollekens and his Times"). + +The Duke of Monmouth obtained the site for this house in 1681, but he +did not long enjoy his possession, for four years later he suffered the +penalty of his pretensions and was executed. The house was later +occupied by successive French Ambassadors; it was demolished in 1773. +The houses at present standing at the south end of the square must have +been built immediately after the destruction of Monmouth House, and +possibly the materials of the older building were used in their +construction. The Hospital for Women shows some traces of former +grandeur in panelled rooms and decorative cornices. The hospital was +only established in these quarters in 1851, so the house may have had +fashionable tenants before. + +On the same side is the Rectory House, which was probably built directly +after the demolition of Monmouth House in 1773. Here there are to be +found all the characteristics of an eighteenth-century building, +including a decorative ceiling by Flaxman. In the south-west corner of +the square there is the house in which is now the Hospital for Diseases +of the Heart and Paralysis. This was at one time the headquarters of the +Linnaean Society, before its removal to Burlington House. It contains +some beautiful ceilings and cornices, and one room, now a female ward, +is worthy of special notice. A very lofty arched ceiling of rather +unusual construction is beautifully decorated, and the overmantel and +fireplace are exquisite. + +In the opposite or south-east corner of the square is the House of +Charity. This was formerly the residence of Alderman Beckford, twice +Lord Mayor of London in George III.'s reign, who was credited with being +the only man of his day who dared tell the King the truth to his face. +His son was the author of "Vathek." The house is now a house of mercy, +for the assistance of orphans, homeless girls, and all who, through no +fault of their own, find themselves without a roof to shelter them or +work to do. The charity is Church of England, and under the direction of +a Warden and Council. The fine decorative wooden overmantels and +doorways still remain, and the joints and edges of the panels are all +carved, which gives a very handsome appearance to some of the rooms. The +council-room ceiling is a large oval with the figures of four cherubic +boys in relief, carrying respectively flowers, a bird, fire, and water, +to represent the four elements. + +One of the former famous houses in the square was Carlisle House. The +walls were of red brick, and the date on the cisterns 1669, the date of +the creation of the earldom of Carlisle. In its later days the house +became notorious from its connection with Mrs. Cornelys, the daughter +of an actor, who was born at Venice in 1723, and who, after a tarnished +career in various Continental towns as a public singer, came to the +King's Theatre, London, to take part in one of Gluck's operas. She took +possession of Carlisle House, and projected a series of society +entertainments, which proved a marvellous success. The square was +blocked with the coaches and chairs of her patrons. In Taylor's "Records +of my Life" it is stated she had as many as 600 persons in her saloon at +one time, at two guineas per head. Foreign Ministers, many of the +nobility, scions of royalty, flocked to her rooms. She spent profusely +and lavishly. The decorations were superb, the entertainments +magnificent, in the ceremonious and rather affected style of the period. +In 1770 she was at the climax of prosperity. "Galas, masquerades, and +festivals, all equally splendid, succeeded one another throughout the +season" (Clinch); but after her sky-rocket ascent came the fall: fickle +Fashion deserted her, and finally the house and its contents were +announced in the _Gazette_ for sale. The Pantheon had proved too +formidable a rival. In 1785 the property was in Chancery, and Mrs. +Cornelys died in the Fleet Prison in 1797. The banqueting-hall in Sutton +Street, attached to Carlisle House by a covered way, was converted into +the Chapel of St. Patrick, and where masqueraders had revelled priests +heard confession. This also eventually disappeared, to make way for the +present church, which is such a feature of the square; it stands at the +corner of Sutton Street, and bears the name of its predecessor. It was +opened 1893, and its campanile reaches a height of 125 feet. Within the +porch is a beautiful marble group of the dead Christ, supported by an +angel. The pictures inside are exceptionally valuable and beautiful, +including paintings by Vandyke, Murillo, Carlo Dolci, Paul Veronese +(attributed), and many others. On the opposite side of the street +Messrs. Crosse and Blackwell's factory also covers a house owning +historical associations. No. 21 was the "White House," and 22, +"Falconberg House," in former times. The latter was the residence of +Oliver Cromwell's third daughter, Lady Falconberg, who died in 1712. +Sutton Street takes its name from the county seat of the Falconbergs. In +this house Sir Cloudesley Shovel's body lay in state before its +interment, after having been found cast up on one of the Scilly Islands. +A Spanish Ambassador was among the later residents, and afterwards the +house was for a time an hotel. In the large drawing-room the ceiling was +painted by Angelica Kauffmann. The Duke of Argyll, the Earl of Bradford, +and Speaker Onslow, were among its tenants. This house is now the +offices of Messrs. Crosse and Blackwell. The painted ceiling was +carefully taken down and saved from destruction by one of the heads of +the firm. The chief articles of interest remaining are a handsome +overmantel in one of the private rooms of the firm, and a curious +ceiling. The former is of wood, and is varnished and painted in various +tones of bronze and gold. The carving upon it is very elaborate and +enigmatical. The panelled ceiling has some affinity with it, but has +been modernized, and is not so interesting. The front of the house +remains as it was, and claims to be the only original frontage in the +square. + +The centre of the square, when first laid out, was occupied by a +fountain surmounted by a statue of Charles II. in armour, the work of +Colley Cibber. Clinch in "Soho and its Associations" mentions a document +of 1748, still extant, in which are recorded the subscriptions made by +the inhabitants to replace the wooden palisades round the square by iron +railings. This is headed by L300 from the Duke of Portland, and among +the names are those of many titled and influential people, showing that +fashion had not then migrated westward. It was on the doorstep of a +house in the square that De Quincey sank dying of exhaustion and +starvation during his first novitiate of London life, and he was only +saved by his faithful companion Ann. + + + + +PART II + +PICCADILLY AND ST. JAMES'S SQUARE + + +Returning from Soho Square to Piccadilly Circus, we find ourselves in +the parish of St. James's, Piccadilly, which takes in all the now +fashionable shopping locality of Regent Street, and is bounded on the +east and south by St. Anne's, Soho, and St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, and +on the west by St. George's, Hanover Square. + +St. James's parish was separated from St. Martin's in 1685, but before +that epoch it had begun to have an existence of its own. Faithorne and +Newcourt's map of London, 1658, shows us open ground from a double row +of trees at Pall Mall to Piccadilly; Piccadilly is marked "from +Knightsbridge unto Piccadilly Hall." Opposite the palace, at the foot of +the present St. James's Street, are a few houses, including Berkshire +(now Bridgewater) House, and there are a few more at the eastern +extremity of Pall Mall. At the north-eastern corner of what we call the +Haymarket is the "Gaming House," and at the corners adjacent one or two +more buildings. This is St. James's in its earliest stage, before the +tide of fashion had moved so far westward. Henry Jermyn, Earl of St +Albans, in the reign of Charles II. obtained a building lease of +forty-five acres in St. James's Fields and projected the square, which +became the nucleus of the parish. + +_Piccadilly._--There is no authentic derivation for this curious name, +though many fancy suggestions have been made. The most probable of these +is that which connects it with the peccadilloes or ruffs worn by the +gallants of Charles II.'s time. Pennant traced the name to piccadillas, +turnovers or cakes which were sold at Piccadilla Hall, at the upper end +of the Haymarket. + +In Thomas Blount's "Glossographia" we read: "Pickadil ... the round hem +or the several divisions set together about the skirt of a garment or +other thing; also a kinde of stiff collar made in fashion of a Bande. +Hence perhaps that famous ordinary near St. James called Peckadilly took +denomination because it was then the utmost or skirt house of the +suburbs that way, others say it took its name from this, that one +Higgins a tailor who built it got most of his estate by Pickadilles, +which in the last age were much worn in England." There seems to be no +other foundation than Mr. Blount's lively imagination for "Higgins a +tailor." + +There is as much confusion about the first date at which the name was +used as there is about its derivation. Whether the hall took its name +from its situation or the district from the hall will probably ever +remain in doubt. The earliest occurrence of the name is in 1636, by +which time the hall was built. The gaming-house was at a later time also +known as Piccadilly, which has increased the confusion. Some writers +have identified the hall and the gaming-house, but there seems to be no +doubt that these were two separate buildings. The former was a private +house standing at the corners of Windmill and Coventry Streets. The +latter seems to have been built by Robert Baker, and sold by his widow +to Colonel Panton, who built Panton Street. It was otherwise known as +Shaver's Hall, and had a tennis-court and upper and lower bowling-green, +and was a very fashionable place of resort. The secondary name probably +emanated from the proprietor's former trade, but it is said to have +stuck to the place after Lord Dunbar lost L3,000 at one sitting, when +people said a Northern lord had been shaved here. + +Sir John Suckling was among the habitues of the place, and his sisters +will ever be remembered from Aubrey's pathetically humorous description +of their coming "to the Peccadillo bowling-green crying for feare he +should lose all [their] portions," as he was a great gamester. + +The name Piccadilly appears to have begun at the east end, near the +circus, and spread over the whole, a fact which is in favour of its +being derived from the house, not the name of the house from the +locality. + +Regent Street is Nash's great memorial. The conception is undoubtedly +fine, namely, a vast avenue to lead from Carlton House to a country +mansion to be built for George IV. in Regent's Park. Nash's great idea, +the combining of many separate buildings into one uniform facade, is +here seen at its best. At first a lengthy colonnade supported by columns +16 feet high ran on either side of the quadrant, but this darkened the +shops, so it was removed. The street is famous for its shops, which line +it from end to end; it has also the merit of being wider than most of +the London streets. + +The part of the parish lying to the east of Regent Street is quite +uninteresting except for Golden Square, which has been well described by +Hatton as "not exactly in anybody's way, to or from anywhere." The +square is mentioned in both "Humphrey Clinker" and "Nicholas Nickleby." +Here Henry St. John, Lord Bolingbroke, lived, 1704-1708, and Mrs. Cibber +in 1746. Angelica Kauffman lived in the centre house on the south side +for many years. It was in the vicinity of the square that the great +burial-ground for the plague-stricken dead was formed in the reign of +Charles II. It was chosen as being well away from the town. Pennant +says: "Golden Square, of dirty access, was built after the Revolution +or before 1700. It was built by that true hero Lord Craven, who stayed +in London during the whole time: and braved the fury of the pestilence +with the same coolness as he fought the battles of his beloved mistress, +Elizabeth, Queen of Bohemia." It was in Golden Square that De Quincey +took leave of Ann, whom he was never to see again. + +Piccadilly Circus was formed at the same time as Regent Street, though +it has been altered since. The Criterion Theatre and Restaurant are on +the south-east side. On this site formerly stood a well-known coaching +inn called the White Bear. One of Shepherd's charming sketches in the +Crace Collection illustrates the courtyard of the inn. Benjamin West, +afterwards P.R.A., put up here on the night of his first sojourn in +London. In the centre of the circus is a fountain in memory of the +seventh Earl of Shaftsbury. This was designed by Alfred Gilbert, R.A., +and consists of a very light metal figure of Mercury on a very solid +aluminium pedestal. + +In Piccadilly itself there is the somewhat gloomy-looking geological +museum, with entrance in Jermyn Street, open free to all comers. The +church of St James's, which comes shortly after, was built by Sir +Christopher Wren at the cost of Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans, and +consecrated at first as a chapel of ease to St. Martin's. The first +rector was Tenison, afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury. Wren considered +this one of his best works. He says: "In this church ... though very +broad and the nave arched, yet there are no walls of a second order, nor +lantherns, nor buttresses, but the whole roof rests upon the pillars, as +do also the galleries; I think it may be found beautiful and convenient, +and as such the cheapest of any form I could invent." + +The church is very wide in proportion to its length, and is said to seat +2,000 people easily. The reredos, a handsome piece of wood carving with +a central group of the pelican in her piety, typical of Christ giving +His life's blood for fainting souls, is the work of Grinling Gibbons. +The organ, in the western gallery, is supposed to have been the work of +Bernard Schmidt and was built for the Roman Catholic Oratory at +Whitehall, but was given to St. James's by Queen Mary, 1691. + +The font which stands in the vestibule at the west end is a most +excellent piece of work. It was carved from a block of white marble by +Grinling Gibbons, and is about 5 feet in height. The shaft is the tree +of life, round which is twined the serpent, while figures of Adam and +Eve stand on either side. It is well worth going into the church to see +this alone. The font originally possessed a cover, which was stolen in +1800, and is said to have been hung up in a spirit shop. In the church +are many monuments hanging on the walls, and on the pillars. One or two +of these at the east end are very cumbrous, and many are heavily +decorated, but none are worthy of note for any intrinsic beauty they +possess. Walcott notes as the most important those of the eighth Earl of +Huntingdon, 1704, and Count de la Roche Foucault, 1741. James Dodsley, +the well-known bookseller, 1797, was buried here, also Haysman, the +rival of Lely, and Lieutenant-General Sir Colin Campbell, K.C.B., 1847. + +Among the entries in the register we have the burials of the two +Vanderveldes, father and son. + +In the old graveyard there are stones in abundance, one or two on the +wall of the church, and many alternating with the flagstones over which +the feet of the living carelessly pass. + +In Sackville Street, just opposite to the church, Sheridan died. + +There are various other public buildings of more or less interest before +we come to Burlington House. No less than three mansions stood here in +the times of the later Stuarts. These belonged to Lord Chancellor +Clarendon and Lords Berkeley and Burlington, of which the latter name +has alone survived. + +The third Earl was an architect, and added several embellishments to his +mansion, including a stone frontage and a colonnade taken down in 1868. + +Handel was a guest at Burlington House for three years from 1715. After +the death of Lord Burlington in 1753 the title became extinct. Among the +memorable scenes witnessed by the house was a brilliant ball and fete, +given by the members of White's Club to the allied Sovereigns in 1814. + +Lord George Cavendish, who bought the house in 1815, considerably +altered the interior of the building, and built the Burlington Arcade in +1819. He was afterwards created Earl of Burlington. In 1854 Government +bought the house and garden. The University of London, now in Burlington +Gardens, temporarily occupied the building, and the societies occupying +Somerset House were offered quarters in Burlington House. In 1866 the +mansion was leased to the Royal Academy, and fundamental changes began. + +On the east side of Burlington House are the Geographical and Chemical +Societies, and on the west the Linnaean. In the courtyard, the Royal +Society is in the east wing, and the Royal Astronomical and the Society +of Antiquaries in the western. + +On the site of the Albany, now fashionable "chambers" for unmarried men, +were formerly three houses united into one by Lord Sunderland, the third +Earl, chiefly remembered for his magnificent library, which, when the +earldom of Sunderland was merged in the dukedom of Marlborough in 1733, +formed the nucleus of the Blenheim Library. The brother of the great Fox +held the house for a short time, and from him it passed to Lord +Melbourne, to whom its rebuilding was due. The architect was Sir W. +Chambers, and the ceilings decorated by Cipriani, Rebecca, and Wheatley. +It was from the Duke of York and Albany, uncle of George III., that the +name is derived. However, he did not live here long. + +St. James's Hall is well known for its popular concerts, which bring +first-rate music within the reach of all. In St. James's Hall the first +public dinner was held on June 2, 1858, and was given under the +presidency of Mr. R. Stephenson, M.P., to Sir F. P. Smith in recognition +of his services in introducing the screw propeller in our steam fleet. +Charles Dickens gave his second series of readings here in 1861. + +Passing down Duke Street, on the south side of Piccadilly, we come to +Jermyn Street. Sir Walter Scott stayed at an hotel here in 1832, on his +last journey home. Sir Isaac Newton was also a resident, and the poet +Gray lodged here. + +In King Street are Willis's Rooms, once Almack's, at one time the scene +of many fashionable assemblies. The rooms were opened in 1765, and a +ten-guinea subscription included a ball and supper once a week for three +months. Ladies were eligible for membership, and thus the place can +claim to have been one of the earliest ladies' clubs. Walpole writes in +1770 to George Montagu: "It is a club of both sexes to be erected at +Almack's on the model of that of the men at White's.... I am ashamed to +say I am of so young and fashionable society." The lady patronesses were +of the very highest rank. Timbs quotes from a letter of Gilly Williams: +"You may imagine by the sum, the company is chosen, though refined as it +is, it will scarcely put old Soho [Mrs. Cornelys] out of countenance." +The place steadily maintained its popularity. Captain Gronow in 1814 +says: "At the present time one can hardly conceive the importance which +was attached to getting admission to Almack's, the seventh heaven of the +fashionable world." The large ballroom was about 100 feet in length by +40 in width, and the largest number of persons present at one time was +1,700. It is often mentioned in the contemporary fiction dealing with +fashionable society; indeed, the whole of this neighbourhood was the +theatre for much of the gay life of the eighteenth century. + +St. James's Square is redolent of old memories. It was, as has been +stated, built by Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans. The square seems to +have been a fashionable locality from its very foundation, and, +curiously enough, has escaped the fate of so many of its compeers, and +still continues aristocratic. + +The workmanship of all the houses was solid and durable, and as soon as +they were built they were occupied. A catalogue of the names of the +early inhabitants would occupy much space: titled men, men eminent in +letters, science and political life, thronged the arena. The proximity +to the Court was a great attraction. The centre of the square was at +first left in a neglected condition, a remnant of the "Fields" on which +the houses had been built, and it served as a base for the displays of +fireworks which were given after the taking of Namur and the Peace of +Ryswick. + +In 1726 a Bill was passed in Parliament for the cleansing and +beautifying of the square, which had become a disgrace to the +neighbourhood, being a mere offal-heap. An ornamental basin was +constructed and the square paved, and a bronze equestrian statue of +William III., clad, according to the ludicrous custom of a bygone time, +in Roman habit, was erected in 1808, on a pedestal which had been built +for it in the centre of the basin years before. The water in this basin +is associated with at least one historic scene, for in the riots of 1780 +the malcontents threw the keys of Newgate into it, where they remained +undiscovered for many years. The basin was finally drained in 1840, +trees were planted, and the garden laid out. Among the historic +associations is one of a memorable night, when Dr. Johnson and Richard +Savage paced round and round the square for lack of a lodging, and +pledged each other, as they separated, to stand by their country. + +Norfolk House stands on the site of that of the Earl of St. Albans, +which he built for his own use in the south-east corner, he afterwards +removed to the mansion on the north side. In the Earl's first house the +Grand-Duke of Tuscany, afterwards Cosmo III., lodged, when on a visit to +London in 1669. Frederick, Prince of Wales, rented the old house before +Carlton House was prepared for his reception, and here George III. was +born. The old house still stands behind the newer building. + +Next to Norfolk House is London House, attached to the See of London +since about 1720. + +Next to this, at the south corner of Charles Street, is Derby House, +with handsome iron veranda and railings running round it. It was built +by Lord Bellasis, and one of the earliest occupants was Aubrey de Vere, +twentieth Earl of Oxford. Dasent says there is some reason for supposing +it to have been occupied by Sir Robert Walpole between the years +1732-35. It was bought by the Earl of Derby about the middle of the +present century. All the houses on this side of the square are of dull +brick, in formal style, with neither beauty nor originality. The next, +at the northern corner of Charles Street (now the West End branch of the +London and Westminster Bank), was known as Ossulston House until 1753, +and belonged for a long period to the Bennet family. It covered two +numbers, of which one was occupied by Lord Dartmouth, Lord Privy Seal +under Lord North's Administration, and is now the bank, and the other +was bought by the second Viscount Falmouth, and is now occupied by the +seventh Viscount of that name. + +No. 3 has passed through the hands of many titled and distinguished +owners, and is at present the property of the Duke of Leeds. It was +occupied by the Copyhold Inclosure and the Tithe Commission Office, now +the Board of Agriculture. + +No. 4, in the corner, belongs to Lord Cowper, and No. 5 to the Earl of +Strafford. + +The next two belong to Lord Avebury and Earl Egerton. + +No. 8 has had many vicissitudes. It was for a time occupied as the +French Embassy, later by Sir Cyril Wyche, President of the Royal +Society, also by Monmouth's widow, Josiah Wedgwood, and by many +intervening tenants of distinction. After the occupancy of Wedgwood, the +second Earl of Romney was here for eight years, until 1839, and then the +house became successively the home of the Erectheum Club, of the +Charity Commissioners, the Junior Oxford and Cambridge Club, Vine Club, +York Club, Junior Travellers' Club, and at present it is the Sports +Club. Ormond or Chandos House, which took up three numbers at the west +corner of York Street, has a history. It was built by Lord St. Albans in +place of his first house in the south-eastern corner of the square, and +passed into the possession of the Duke of Ormond, the only man who was +four times Lord Lieutenant of Ireland. Entertainments on a large scale +took place during this period. Perhaps the most interesting fact in the +history of the house is that a meeting of noblemen and gentlemen was +held here in 1688, at which an address of welcome to the Prince of +Orange was drawn up, in which he was besought to carry on the Government +until a Convention could meet. The Spanish Embassy was here in 1718. The +Duke of Chandos bought the mansion a year later, and in 1735 it was +pulled down, and the present three houses built on its site. These three +houses have been well tenanted, especially the centre one, No. 10, which +can boast the successive occupancy of Pitt, Lady Blessington, the great +Earl of Derby, and Mr. Gladstone. Here old link-extinguishers still +remain on the posts before the door. + +No. 9 is now the home of the Portland Club. + +No. 12 has also its string of names, but, for fear of degenerating into +a mere catalogue, we will only mention a few of the most important, Sir +Cyril Wyche was the first owner in 1676, and he was succeeded in 1678 by +Aubrey de Vere, twentieth Earl of Oxford. The Dukes of Roxburgh were in +possession from 1796 to 1812, and at the latter date the famous Roxburgh +Library was sold. The last private occupier was J. W. Spencer Churchill, +seventh Duke of Marlborough. After this the house was used successively +by the Salisbury Club, the Nimrod Club, and the Pall Mall Club, the last +of which remains here at present. + +No. 13, the corner house, has passed through many hands, and is now in +the occupation of the Windham Club. The London Library is well known to +all book-lovers. + +Wheatley states that Philip Francis lived at No. 14 until his death in +1818, but the houses have been renumbered since then, and his 14 is now +16. + +No. 15 is known as Lichfield House from its former owner. It was built +by Stuart (known as "Athenian Stuart") in 1763-65. In 1855 it was the +home of the Junior United Service Club. In 1856 it was bought by the +Clerical, Medical, and General Life Assurance Society. The chief event +in its history took place on June 28, 1815, when the Prince Regent +displayed the trophies and banners just brought from Waterloo to the +crowd below. + +No. 16, which is now amalgamated with 17, is occupied by the East India +United Service Club. + +Nos. 17 and 18 formed old Halifax House. Many political intrigues and +meetings must have taken place here, for Lord Halifax gained the name of +always being on the winning side. In 1725 Halifax House was demolished +and the present buildings erected. In 1820 Queen Caroline stayed in No. +17 during her trial. The house was afterwards used by the Colonial Club. + +No. 18 boasts such names among its tenants as the fourth Earl of +Chesterfield, the first Lord Thurlow, and Viscount Castlereagh, +afterwards second Marquis of Londonderry. It was used by the Oxford and +Cambridge Club and the Army and Navy Club. + +At the south-east corner of King Street, in the square, was Cleveland +House, which has been demolished and replaced by "mansions." + +Apsley and Winchester Houses follow. The former was rebuilt by Robert +Adam in 1772-74, and follows the well-known lines of his work, with +fluted pilasters rising from above the basement to an entablature. The +entrance has the fan-shaped glass above the door so characteristic of +Adam's work. + +Winchester House was from 1826 to 1875 occupied by the Bishops of that +see, and was later a branch of the War Office, several departments of +which are still here. The next magnificent building, which really faces +George Street, but was formerly considered to be in the square, is one +of the palatial clubs evolved by the demands of modern luxury. The house +which formerly stood here was used by the Parthenon Club from 1837-41, +and was subsequently pulled down to make way for the present clubhouse, +opened 1851, and built from designs by Parnell and Smith. The exterior +is a combination of Sansovino's Palazzo Cornaro and the Library of St. +Mark at Venice. The lower part follows Sansovino's beautiful work very +closely. On the site of this stood formerly a house belonging to Nell +Gwynne, of which Pennant writes: "The back-room of the ground-floor was +(within memory) entirely of looking-glass, as was said to have been the +ceiling; over the chimney was her picture, and that of her sister in a +third room." He describes this house as the "first good one on the left +hand of St. James's Square entered from Pall Mall." + +The south side of the square has never been held in such esteem as the +remaining three-fourths. But the Junior Carlton Club, facing Pall Mall, +has removed this stigma; it is a fine specimen of architecture. +Demolition, previous to reconstruction, has already begun next to it. +After this as far as John Street is a row of comparatively insignificant +narrow houses of various heights and styles. Some of the houses on the +north side of Pall Mall were built before the completion of the square, +so that there was no room for large mansions here. At the corner of John +Street and Pall Mall is what is called "Ye Olde Bull Tavern," a square +box-like stuccoed house. This is probably contemporary with the first +building of Pall Mall, and may have been the substitute of the +seventeenth century wits and men of letters for the magnificent clubs of +the present day. + +Charles Street was built about 1671, and was, of course, named after the +King. Burke and Canning are numbered among the former residents. + +York Street was named in compliment to the Duke of York, afterwards +James II. It may be noted that the four streets surrounding the square +form the names King Charles and Duke of York. + +Bury Street was named after a Mr. Berry, who was landlord of many of the +houses; the spelling is a corruption. Sir Richard Steele lodged here, +also Thomas Moore and Crabbe, the poet, during one of his later visits +to London, when contact with cultured men had rubbed off his early +boorishness. + +"St. James's Street is much more remarkable for the natural advantages +and beauty of the ground, than from any addition it has received from +art," so says Ralph ("Critical Review of Public Buildings," 1783 +edition). In the very earliest maps of the parish a road is marked on +this site, leading northward from the palace. The street was built about +1670, and was first known as Long Street. In the time of the Stuarts it +shared the aristocratic tendency of the square, and had a list of noble +occupiers. It was levelled and made uniform in 1764, having previously +descended from Piccadilly by steps. + +St. James's Street has been noted from the very beginning for its clubs, +gaming-houses, and convivial gatherings. Its proximity to the Court +attracted all the fops and beaux, and it was the resort of fashionable +and gay young idlers. Many anecdotes are related of the street, but +chiefly in connection with the clubs, for which it is still famous. +White's (37 and 38) is one of the oldest; it was established about 1698, +and was at first a chocolate-house. It stood near the low end of the +street, on the west side. It was burnt down in 1733, and the present +building, designed by Wyatt, was erected in 1755, and altered nearly a +century later by Lockyer. The gaming-room of the old house forms the +scene of the sixth plate of Hogarth's "Rake's Progress," where the +gamblers are represented intent on their cards, though the flames are +bursting out. It was after the fire that the house became a private +club, and it was long noted as a gambling-house for high stakes and +reckless betting. It is of White's that the story is told that a man +dropped down before the door insensible, and was taken inside. The +members immediately began to bet whether he were dead or not, and when +the physician came to bleed him, those on the affirmative side +protested. + +"Brooke's" is now No. 60, on the opposite side of the street from +White's, at the northern corner of Park Place, and was as notorious a +gaming-house as White's. It was of later origin, dating from 1764, and +was originally in Pall Mall. It began life under the name of Almack's. +The play was prodigiously high. Timbs says that it was for rouleaux of +L50 each, and there was generally L10,000 in specie on the table. + +"Boodle's," is another celebrated club, which was also named the "Savoir +Vivre." This is now No. 28. + +The Cocoa-tree Club recalls by its name an old chocolate house of Queen +Anne's time, a favourite resort of the Tories, often mentioned by +Addison. Lord Byron was one of the members. The old house was situated +nearer to the south end of the street than the present club. + +"Arthurs," south of St. James's Place, was founded by the proprietor of +White's in 1765. The present building was erected in 1825 by Hopper. The +Conservative Club house (74) was built in 1845 from designs by Smirke +and Basevi. The building is large, with slightly projecting wings, and a +stone balcony extending uninterruptedly across the frontage. + +Next door is the "Thatched House" Club, which originated in the Thatched +House Tavern, in which the dilettanti and literary societies used to +meet. Wheatley describes a row of low-built shops standing before the +tavern, one of which was that of the hairdresser Rowland, who made a +fortune by his macassar oil. + +St. James's Coffee-house, a celebrated Whig rendezvous from the reign of +Queen Anne until the beginning of the nineteenth century, was at this +end of the street. In this street there are also many other clubs of +later origin. It was at the foot of St. James's Street that the Duke of +Ormond was attacked in his coach in 1670, by the notorious Colonel +Blood. The Duke had been responsible for the execution of some of +Blood's associates in Ireland, and Blood determined to take him to +Tyburn and hang him in revenge. He actually succeeded in dragging him +from his coach and mounting him on horseback behind one of his men. When +they had proceeded as far as Devonshire House, the Duke succeeded in +unhorsing his companion, and in the delay that followed his servants +made their appearance and rescued him. For this outrage Blood was never +punished. Sir Christopher Wren died in St. James's Street in 1723, and +Gibbon, the historian, in 1794. The names of Waller, the poet, Wolfe, C. +Fox, and Lord Byron, are among the residents. It was here that the last +named was lodging when his "Childe Harold" created such an extraordinary +sensation. Alexander Pope was also a resident. + +McLean, the famous highwayman, lodged opposite "White's." He was hung in +1750, and the first Sunday after he was condemned 3,000 people went to +see him in gaol. St. James's Street at present is sufficiently +noticeable because of its width, in which the old palace gateway at the +foot is framed. + +Park Place was built in 1683. William Pitt came to live here in 1801. +St. James's Place is a medley of old and modern buildings, some having +been built in the last decade. Wheatley speaks of it because of its +tortuous course, as "one of the oddest built streets in London." Wilkes +and Addison, and Mrs. Delaney, at whose house Miss Burney stayed, have +been among the residents. Samuel Rogers lived for fifty years at No. 22, +which looked out over the park. + +Cleveland Square is an open space before the Duke of Bridgewater's +House. The house was restored, as an inscription over the doorway tells +us, or in other words rebuilt, in 1849. This house has a history. It was +originally Berkshire House, and belonged to the Howards, Earls of +Berkshire. Charles II. bought it in 1670, and gave it to that "beautiful +fury," Barbara, Duchess of Cleveland. She pulled down the house and sold +part of the site before rebuilding. In 1730 the first Duke of +Bridgewater bought it, and it was alternately known by the names of +Cleveland and Bridgewater. The third Duke died unmarried in 1803, when +the title became extinct. He left the house and the magnificent +collection of pictures to his nephew, the Marquis of Stafford, +afterwards Duke of Sutherland, with reversion to the Marquis's second +son. This son was created Earl of Ellesmere in 1846. He rebuilt the +house, still retaining the old name. The famous collection of pictures +within, includes works of Raphael, Titian, Vandervelde, Turner, +Rembrandt, Cuyp, and others, and is one of the finest private +collections in England. + +The house opposite was the home of Grenville, First Lord of the +Admiralty in 1806, and here he collected the magnificent library which +is now at the British Museum. Admiral Rodney lived in Cleveland Row in +1772. + +On Pall Mall the game of the same name was originally played. On both +sides of the open space were rows of elm-trees. But being such an +obvious route from the palace to Charing Cross it was soon used as a +thoroughfare, and after the warrant for "building of the new street of +St. James" Charles II. laid out the new mall in the park. The street, +when built, was at first called Catherine, in honour of the Queen, but +the older name soon returned into favour. + +It early became fashionable. Nell Gwynne was one of the first residents. +She had a house numbered 79, near the War Office, afterwards, by the +irony of fate, occupied by the Society for the Propagation of the +Gospel, and since rebuilt. Evelyn records an occasion on which he +attended King Charles II. in the park, when he heard "a familiar +discourse between the King and Mrs. Nellie as they call an impudent +comedian, she looking out of her garden on a terrace at the top of the +wall, and the King standing on the green walk under it." + +During Wyatt's insurrection in 1554, the mob passed along this road, and +the Earl of Pembroke planted artillery on the high ground of Hay Hill +and Piccadilly, when a piece of the Queen's ordnance, we are told, "slew +three of Wyatt's followers, in a rank, and after carrying off their +heads passed through this wall into the park" (Jesse). In 1682 Thynne +was murdered at the instigation of Count Konigsmarck in what is now Pall +Mall East, because he had married the heiress of the Percys, whom the +Count wished to marry himself. The principal was acquitted, but his +three accomplices or tools, who had actually committed the murder, were +executed, according to the poetic justice of the time, at the scene of +their offence, in 1682. + +The Star and Garter Hotel, nearly opposite the War Office, was a +fashionable tavern in the time of Queen Anne. Here took place the famous +duel between the fifth Lord Byron and Mr. Chaworth in 1765. They fought +in the house by the light of only a single candle. Byron killed his +opponent, and was found guilty of manslaughter by his peers. However, he +claimed benefit of a statute of Edward VI., and was discharged. The +original dispute was merely as to which gentleman had the larger amount +of game on his estate. + +Among other famous taverns in this street are mentioned the King's Arms, +under the Opera Colonnade in Pall Mall East. Also the Rumpsteak Club, +which consisted of five Dukes, one Marquis, fifteen Earls, three +Viscounts, and three Barons, all in opposition to Sir Robert Walpole. +The King's Head, the George, the Smyrna Coffee-house, Giles' +Coffee-house, Hercules Pillars, and the Tree, were among the ancient +places of resort in this street--a foreshadowing of the palatial +mansions of Clubland. + +The north side of the street is the poorer of the two. Beginning at the +western end on the south side, we have the New Oxford and Cambridge +Club, the Guards, and the Oxford and Cambridge University Clubs. The +first of these has a very massive entrance; the house has only a north +aspect, the windows at the back being glazed with ground-glass so as not +to overlook Marlborough House. A little further on is an old red-brick +house with a portico on which is a female figure in bas-relief with +palette and brushes. This is in great contrast to its neighbours; it is +what remains (centre and west wing) of Schomberg House, built about the +middle of the seventeenth century. The first Schomberg came over in the +train of William of Orange; he was Count in his own country, bore +several French titles, and was created an English Duke. He was killed at +the Battle of the Boyne. The house was later occupied by Cumberland of +Culloden, George III.'s uncle, and subsequently by Astley the painter. +Astley divided it into three parts, reserving the centre for his own +use. Among the tenants who succeeded him we find the names of Cosway, +Paine the bookseller, and Nathaniel Hone. In the western wing +Gainsborough lived, so the building has every right to its +distinguishing panel of palette and brushes. During Gainsborough's +occupancy everyone of wealth, beauty or fashion in the society of the +day resorted here to have their features immortalized. This house is now +part of the War Office, which, in a previous stage of its career, was +the Ordnance Office. + +The entrance to the War Office stands back behind a courtyard in which +is a statue of Lord Herbert of Lea. The War Office was originally at the +Horse Guards, and since its removal has gradually extended its premises +by absorbing one house after another. We now come to a long series of +clubs. The Carlton is rich in ornament, with polished granite columns +decorating a front of Caen stone. The design was by Sydney Smirke, and +is said to be founded on that of a Venetian palace. It contrasts with +its neighbour, the Reform, which presents a breadth of plain surface +broken only by little pediments over the windows. This was the work of +Sir Charles Barry, and was copied from the Farnese Palace at Venice, of +which the upper storey was the work of Michael Angelo. It is a dull, +heavy-looking piece of work. On part of its site stood the house of +Angerstein, a Russian merchant, whose collection of pictures formed the +nucleus of our National Gallery. + +The Travellers', next door, also the work of Barry, is in an Italian +style. One of the rules of this club is that no person shall be eligible +for membership who shall not have travelled out of the British Isles at +least 500 miles in a direct line from London. + +The Athenaeum is one of the most princely of clubs. It was established in +1823, and the present house was built about half a dozen years later. +Decimus Burton was the architect, and his work is Grecian, with a frieze +copied from the famous procession in the Parthenon. The recently-added +storey has been the subject of much criticism. Among those present at +the preliminary meeting we find the names of Sir Humphrey Davy, Sir +Francis Chantrey, Sir Thomas Lawrence, the Earl of Aberdeen, Sir Walter +Scott, Thomas Moore and Faraday. Theodore Hook was one of the most +popular members. + +At the corner of Pall Mall East and Waterloo Place is the United Service +Club built by Nash. It was instituted after the Battle of Waterloo, and +was at first at the corner of Charles Street, on the site of the Junior +Club of the same name. + +The Guards' Monument, in Waterloo Place, was put up in 1859 in memory of +the Crimea. Three figures of guardsmen--Grenadier, Coldstream, and +Fusilier--in full marching uniform, stand round a granite pedestal, on +which are inscribed the names of the famous Crimean battles; a pile of +Russian guns actually brought from Sebastopol completes the group. + +The Church of St. Philip, on the west side of Lower Regent Street, is a +quaint building with Doric portico and curious little cupola, the latter +a copy of the Lanthorn of Demosthenes at Athens. It was built in 1820 by +Repton, from designs by Sir W. Chambers, and has the merit of being +almost continually open for prayer and meditation. + +On the east side the most important building is the Junior United +Service Club, erected in 1852 by Nelson and James. + +Market Street and St. James's Market recall the market held "west of the +Haymarket, mid-way between Charles and Jermyn Street." This originated +in a fair held in St. James's Fields, before the square was built, and +from which Mayfair partly derives its name. This fair was suppressed on +account of disorder in 1651, but revived again, and was not finally +stopped until the end of Charles II.'s reign. After having been +suppressed in the Fields in 1664, it was held in the market. Strype +describes this market as "a large place, with a commodious market-house +in the midst filled with butchers' shambles; besides the stalls in the +market-place for country butchers, higglers and the like, being a market +now grown to great account, and much resorted unto as being served with +good provisions." In a house at the corner of Market Street lived Hannah +Lightfoot, said to have been married to King George III. when Prince of +Wales. The market belonged to Lord St. Albans, whose name is preserved +in St. Albans Place, which ends in a foot-passage leading into Charles +Street. + +The Haymarket derives its name from a market for hay and straw which was +held here until 1830, and was then transferred to Cumberland Market, +Regent's Park, where it still continues. The market naturally involved +many taverns in its neighbourhood, and the street was lined with them. +The names of some were Black Horse, White Horse, Nag's Head, Cock, +Phoenix, Unicorn, and Blue Posts. The theatre and the old opera-house +were the most important buildings in the Haymarket. The latter was on +the site of Her Majesty's Theatre and the Carlton Hotel. It was called +at different times the Queen's Theatre, the King's Theatre, and Her +Majesty's Theatre, so the new name is but a revival of the old. The +first theatre on this site was begun in 1703 as a theatre for +Betterton's famous company, which had been performing in Lincoln's Inn +Fields. Operas were subsequently performed here; in fact, nearly all +Handel's operas were written for this theatre. Masquerades were held in +the opera-house in 1749 and 1766, and were attended by all the rank and +fashion of the day, and even by royalty in disguise. In 1789 the theatre +was burnt down. It was rebuilt and completed only three years after the +catastrophe. This house saw some fine performances of the Italian Opera +Company, and in it the names of Grisi, Rubini, Tamburini, Lablache, +Mario, and Jenny Lind, first became known to the public. In 1867 it also +was burnt down. For about a quarter of a century a third theatre stood +here, but had no success, and was pulled down. The present theatre is +of great magnificence, and will seat between 1,600 and 1,700 persons. +The Haymarket Theatre opposite is dwarfed by the proximity of its +gorgeous neighbour. The names of Fielding, Cibber, Macklin, and Foote +are connected with various attempts to make the earliest venture on this +site pay. Mozart performed here in 1765, when only eight years old. In +1820 the present building was erected by Nash, adjacent to the old +theatre. The Haymarket in the last century was a great place for shows +and entertainments. + +In James's Street was a tennis-court much patronized by Charles II. and +the Duke of York. + +Whitcomb Street was formerly called Hedge Lane, an appropriate name when +it stood in a rural district; now it is a narrow, dirty thoroughfare, +bordered by poor dwellings and small shops. + + + + +PART III + +THE STRAND + + +We have now made a circuit, noting all that is interesting by the way, +and have returned to busy Charing Cross, from which runs the great +thoroughfare, the Strand, which gives the district its name. + +This important street might be considered either as a street of +palaces--and in this respect not to be surpassed by any street in +medieval Europe, not even Venice--or a street full of associations, +connected chiefly with retail trade, taverns, shops, sedan-chairs, and +hackney coaches. + +The Strand, as the name implies, was the shore by the river. It has +passed through two distinct phases. First, when it was an open highway, +with a few scattered houses here and there, crossed by small bridges +over the rivulets which flowed down to the Thames. One of these was the +Strand Bridge, between the present Surrey Street and Somerset House; +another, Ivy Bridge, between Salisbury Street and Adam Street. In 1656 +there were more than 800 watercourses crossing it between Palace Yard +and the Old Exchange! It was not paved until Henry VIII.'s reign, and we +read of the road being interrupted with thickets and bushes. + +Then came a period of great grandeur, when the Strand was lined with +palatial mansions, which had gardens stretching down to the river, when +the town-houses of the Prince-Bishops, of the highest nobility, and even +of royalty, rose up in grandeur. The names of the streets, Salisbury and +Buckingham, York and Durham, Norfolk and Exeter, are no mere fancy, but +recall a vision of bygone splendour which might well cause the Strand to +be named a street of palaces. + +The palaces, which occupied at one time the whole of the south side of +the street, were at first the town-houses of the Bishops. They were +built along the river because, in their sacred character, they were safe +from violence (except in one or two cases), and therefore did not need +the protection of the wall, while it was perhaps felt that even if the +worst happened, as it did happen in Jack Straw's rebellion, the river +offered a liberally safe way of escape. In the thirteenth century Henry +III. gave Peter of Savoy "all those houses in the Thames on the way +called the Strand." + +Gay speaks of the change that had fallen upon the Strand in his time: + + "Through the long Strand together let us stray; + With thee conversing I forget the way. + Behold that narrow street which steep descends, + Whose building to the shining shore extends; + Here Arundel's fam'd structure rear'd its frame, + The street alone retains an empty name: + Where Titian's glowing paint the canvas warm'd, + And Raphael's fair design with judgment charm'd, + Now hangs the bellman's song, and pasted here + The colour'd prints of Overton appear; + Where statues breath'd the work of Phidias' hands, + A wooden pump or lonely watch-house stands; + There Essex's stately pile adorn'd the shore, + There Cecil's, Bedford's, Villiers's--now no more." + +Disraeli, in "Tancred," says: "The Strand is, perhaps, the finest street +in Europe." Charles Lamb said: "I often shed tears in the motley Strand +for fulness of joy at so much life." + +The Strand has now become a street of shops instead of a street of +palaces; it has been, but is no more, a fashionable resort; it has been +a place for the lodgings of visitors, and still has many small hotels +and boarding-houses in its riverside lanes; its personal associations +are many, but not so important as those in the City or Westminster; it +is a street of great interest, but its architectural glories have almost +all vanished. + +Beginning at the west end, we note on the north side the Golden Cross +Hotel, rebuilt. This is the successor of a famous old coaching inn, +which stood further west. On the south side is Craven Street, formerly +Spur Alley, where once Benjamin Franklin lived at No. 7. The site of +Hungerford Market is now covered by the Charing Cross railway-station. +In Charing Cross station-yard is a modern reproduction of the original +Queen Eleanor's Cross. The market was built in 1680, rebuilt in 1831, +and stretched to the river. The name will always be connected with that +of Charles Dickens, and with "David Copperfield." Beside the market was +the suspension bridge constructed by Brunel, opened in 1845, and removed +to make room for the railway-bridge. + +On the site of Hungerford Market there stood the "Inn" or House of the +Bishop of Norwich. In 1536 Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, exchanged +his house in Southwark for this place; twenty years later it fell into +the hands of Heath, Archbishop of York, who called it York House, and +in the reign of James I. it became the property of the Crown. Bacon was +born in this house. In 1624 the Duke of Buckingham obtained the house; +he pulled it down, and began to build a large mansion to take its place. +The watergate is the only part of his structure still existing. Cromwell +gave the house to Fairfax, whose daughter married the second Duke of +Buckingham, of the Villiers family. In 1655 Evelyn describes the house +as "much ruined through neglect." In 1672 the house and gardens were +sold to four persons of Westminster, who laid out the site in streets, +viz., Villiers Street, Duke Street, Buckingham Street, and Of Alley, +forming in conjunction the words Villiers, Duke of Buckingham. York +House was pulled down soon after, and York Buildings erected on the +site. Peter the Great had lodgings in York Buildings during his visit to +England, and Pepys occupied a house on the west side, near the river, +for some time. The gardens of the Victoria Embankment now fill up the +space over which the river formerly flowed, and the watergate is merely +a meaningless ornament 100 yards or more from the water. + +At the corner of Agar and King William Streets, on the north, is the +Charing Cross Hospital, founded 1818, and built on the present site in +1831, the architect being Decimus Burton. It is a dreary stuccoed +building, with a rounded end, and contains nothing that specially marks +it out from other general hospitals. + +In Chandos Street the highwayman Claude Duval was arrested, after which +he was executed at Tyburn, 1669. There was an ancient hostelry called +the Black Prince in Chandos Street, which is mentioned by Dickens. This +was demolished to make way for the Medical College. Opposite was the +blacking shop where Dickens spent a miserable part of his childhood. + +The next group of streets on the south side, namely, John, Robert, +James, and William Streets, was built by four brothers of the name of +Adam, who gave their Christian names to their handiwork, and from whom +this particular district was called the "Adelphi," from the Greek word +signifying brothers. The site was occupied by Durham House, a palace +built by Anthony de Beck, Bishop of Durham in Edward I.'s reign. Bishop +Tunstall in 1535 exchanged it with Henry VIII. for Cold Harbour and +other houses in the City, and for a time it was frequented by royalty. +The King gave a great tournament here on his marriage with Anne of +Cleves. Proclamations of the jousts were made in France, Spain, +Scotland, and Flanders. The young King, Edward VI., granted the house to +his sister Elizabeth for life. The unfortunate Lady Jane Grey was +married within the walls of Durham House to the son of Northumberland. +When Queen Mary ascended the throne, she gave the palace back to Bishop +Tunstall, but Elizabeth regarded it as one of the royal palaces, and +after her accession bestowed it on Sir Walter Raleigh. In Aubrey's +"Letters" Raleigh's occupation of the house is mentioned in a +descriptive passage: "Durham House was a noble palace.... I well +remember his (Raleigh's) study, which was on a little turret that looked +into and over the Thames, and had the prospect which is, perhaps, as +pleasant as any in the world." When Raleigh was imprisoned the See of +Durham again obtained the house. The stables, facing the Strand, were +then in a very ruinous condition, and were pulled down. On their site +was built an exchange, called the New Exchange, which obtained some +popularity. This was erected partly on the pattern of the Royal +Exchange, and was opened by King James I. This, Strype tells us, "was +for milliners, sempstresses, and other trades that furnish dresses." + +The place was opened in 1609 by James I. and the Queen; it was called +Britain's Burse. It became fashionable after the Restoration, and, after +a period of popularity lasting a little more than fifty years, it was +taken down. Here Anne Clarges, daughter of John Clarges, a farrier of +the Savoy, sold gloves, washballs, and powder. She married General +Monk, and died Duchess of Albemarle. Here Henry Herringman, publisher, +had his shop. The Restoration literature abounds in references to the +New Exchange. The shops were served by girls who spent a great part of +their time in flirting with the fops. The Duchess of Tyrconnell, sister +of Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough, is said to have kept a shop here for +her own maintenance, wearing a white mask which she never removed. The +lower walk was a notorious place for assignations. It was taken down in +1737. In 1768 the brothers Adam obtained the lease of the ground and +began to build. Robert Adam had been much struck in his foreign travels +with the palace of Diocletian on the Bay of Spalatro. The terrace facing +the sea had impressed his imagination, and the Adelphi Terrace is the +result of his adaptation of the idea. It was necessary to gain a solid +foundation on the slippery river-bank, therefore the brothers designed +the wonderful system of arches on which all the Adelphi precinct rests. +On building their terrace they had to encroach on the river, and form an +embankment, which was much resented by the Londoners. The centre house +in the terrace was taken by Garrick, who remained there until his death, +about seven years later. The arches were at first left open, but formed +a refuge for the vicious and destitute, who made a regular city of the +underground passages. They were subsequently filled in, and now are +brewers' vaults, with only the high-vaulted roadway left open to form a +passage for the drays and vans. Beneath the terrace is a curious little +strip of land cut off from the Embankment garden by high wooden pales. +This is practically useless, as it can only be reached through the +arches. On it is an old dilapidated shed, once a much-frequented tavern, +called the Fox under the Hill, a curious feature on land which is of so +much value. + +There are several interesting houses in the Adelphi precinct. In the +centre of the terrace is the Savage Club, and there are many other +societies and institutions on the terrace. In John Street is the +building expressly designed for the Society of Arts. + +The work of the Society is brought before the notice of the public by +circular tablets, which are affixed to houses in London which have +formerly been the homes of men eminent in literature, science, or art. +Close at hand is the bank of Messrs. Coutts, on the site of the New +Exchange. This important bank deserves some special notice. It was +established by a goldsmith of the name of Middleton, who kept a shop +near St. Martin's Church about 1692. The name of Coutts first appears in +1755. Many interesting stories are told in connection with this famous +house. The Mr. Coutts who was head of the firm at the beginning of the +present century was twice married. By his first wife he had three +daughters, who married respectively the third Earl of Guilford, the +first Marquess of Bute, and Sir Francis Burdett. His second wife was +Miss Mellon, an actress, to whom he left the whole of his vast fortune. +She afterwards married the Duke of St. Albans, but left the whole of her +great wealth to Miss Angela Burdett, grand-daughter of Mr. Coutts. This +lady assumed the additional name of Coutts, and was raised to the +peerage on account of her munificent charities. + +The Adelphi Theatre stands on the north side of the Strand, but is +identified by name with this district; it was originally called the Sans +Pareil. Charles Mathews gave many of his celebrated "at homes" here. A +few doors west is the Vaudeville. + +Ivy Bridge Lane, now closed, runs to the west of Salisbury Street. It is +a narrow, dirty passage, and was named from a bridge in the Strand which +crossed one of the numerous rivulets running down to the Thames. Pennant +mentions a house of the Earl of Rutland's near this bridge. The Cecil +Hotel is built over Salisbury and Cecil Streets, names that recall a +mansion of Sir Robert Cecil, second son of Lord Burleigh, called +Salisbury House. + +Adjacent to this stood Worcester House. It was originally the town-house +of the Bishops of Carlisle; at the Reformation it was presented to the +Earl of Bedford, and known as Bedford House, until the owner built +another house on the north side of the Strand. It then became the +property of the Marquis of Worcester, and was known as Worcester House. +Lord Clarendon lived here after the Restoration. At Worcester House his +daughter Anne was married to the Duke of York. Lord Clarendon left the +house, and went to live in St. James's Street. Worcester House was then +used for great occasions. + +Here the Duke of Ormond (1669) was installed Chancellor of the +University of Oxford, and in 1674 the Duke of Monmouth Chancellor of the +University of Cambridge. The Worcester House Conference was also held in +the hall of this place. Beaufort Buildings occupy a part of the site. +The house itself was destroyed by the Duke of Beaufort. + +Exeter Street and Hall (north) preserve the name of Exeter House, built +by Lord Burleigh. It was at first Cecil House, but on the succession of +his eldest son, the Earl of Exeter, elder brother of Sir Robert Cecil, +it became Exeter House. Afterwards the house was used by Doctors of +Ecclesiastical Law, etc., and later was converted into an exchange, at +first designed for the sale of fancy goods, but later famous for an +exhibition of wild beasts. The body of Gay the poet rested in this +Exchange before being interred in Westminster Abbey. + +Exeter Hall was erected in 1830 for the purpose of religious meetings. +Exeter Street will always be associated with the name of Dr. Johnson, +who took lodgings here when he came up to London first, and dined at a +neighbouring cookshop for eightpence. + +The Lyceum Theatre was designed by S. Beazley, and opened in 1834. It +will be always associated with the names of Sir Henry Irving and Ellen +Terry. It stands on the site of the English Opera-House, burnt down in +1830, which during many years was the home of a quaint convivial +gathering, called the Beefsteak Society, founded by Rich and Lambert in +1735. The members dined together off beefsteaks at five o'clock on +Saturdays from November until the end of June. The gridiron was their +emblem. + +Just before arriving at Wellington Street there is a glimpse of green +trees, and of a brilliant bed of flowers, down a little narrow street on +the south side of the Strand. Many people must have noticed these +things, few have had the curiosity to explore further; yet it is well +worth while to get down from omnibus or cab and venture into this little +backwater of the Savoy. Between eleven and one, and two and four +o'clock every day the garden gate is open, and the verger is in the +chapel, ready to answer questions. The little graveyard garden, with its +waving trees, is a veritable oasis in the desert of brick and mortar, +and the quaint chapel with its turret forms a suitable background. The +precincts of the Savoy appertain to the Duchy of Lancaster, and as such +are royal property; the reigning Sovereign keeps up the place, and pays +for choir and service. In former days many irregular marriages were +performed here, until the place gained a reputation second only to the +Fleet Prison. Weddings are still held here, though the procedure is now +strictly legal. The origin of the church was in the reign of Henry VII., +but the fire which raged in 1864, and burnt out the interior, destroyed +many old relics, and the present interior is Early Victorian. There is a +curious old oil-painting opposite the door, which looks as if it had +been part of a triptych, and in the chancel two quaint little stone +figures, which survived the fire. The latest stained-glass window was +filled in quite recently in memory of D'Oyley Carte. It was unveiled by +Sir Henry Irving in the spring of 1902. Several persons of importance +have been buried here, but none whose names are sufficiently well known +to merit quotation. Many Bishops have been consecrated in the chapel, +and it was here that the memorable Conference on the Book of Common +Prayer took place in Charles II.'s reign. The chapel was made parochial +after the greedy Somerset had destroyed the first Church of St. Mary le +Strand, in order to use its materials for his own mansion. It had before +that time been dedicated to St. John the Baptist, but was henceforth +known as St. Mary le Savoy. + +The history of the precinct of Savoy is difficult to treat in a volume +like the present, because it requires a book to itself. It is not the +paucity of material, but the quantity, that is embarrassing. The great +palace which stood here first was built by Simon de Montfort, Earl of +Leicester, one of the Barons to whom our present Constitution is due. By +one of the frequent vicissitudes of the times, when no man's land or +property was safe, this palace came into the hands of King Henry III., +who took the opportunity of a visit from his wife's uncle, Peter of +Savoy (afterwards Earl of Savoy and Richmond), to present it to him. +Peter either gave it to or exchanged it with a religious fraternity, +from whom it was rebought by the Queen, Eleanor, who gave it to her son +Edmund, Earl of Lancaster. + +After the Battle of Poitiers, King John of France was brought here a +prisoner, and, oddly enough, though he was soon set at liberty, his +death occurred here many years later when he had returned to make amends +for the escape of one of his sons held hostage by the English until the +payment of his ransom. + +John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, had made the palace into a most +magnificent building, and here he lived in great state. Chaucer, +Froissart and Wycliff are mentioned as having been his frequent guests. +In the sack of the town by Wat Tyler this house particularly attracted +the attention of the unruly mob, who did their utmost to wreck it, and +were assisted by the explosion of several barrels of gunpowder, which, +ignorant of their contents, they had thrown upon the flames. The costly +plate and rich furniture were flung into the Thames by the rioters. +After this it lay in ruins until King Henry VII., himself a descendant +of John of Gaunt, founded here a hospital for 100 poor people, but he +hardly lived to see his project carried out. Amid the general spoliation +of the religious houses that followed, Henry VIII. seems to have +respected his father's wish and left the hospital alone. It is described +as a goodly building in the form of a cross. However, it was suppressed +under Edward VI., and restored by Mary, whose maids of honour "did with +exemplary piety furnish it with all necessaries." Elizabeth laid hands +on it, and later it seems to have been reserved for such nobles as had +the favour of the Crown and the right of free quarters, something in +the same way as Hampton Court is reserved at present. There is an +illustration by Hollar showing the palace-hospital as it was in 1650. It +is right on the water's edge, presenting a very solid line of wall to +the river, pierced by two rows of small windows. In the upper stories +the parapet is battlemented, and a square tower built over arches +projects from the frontage. We have also a plan of about a hundred years +later (1754), showing the congeries of buildings that then covered the +precincts. The part near the river is marked "Dwellings"; the ancient +hospital has become "barracks." There is a military prison at the west +side, and churches of the German Calvinist, German Lutheran and French +persuasions are all within the walls. + +The present church in this plan is at the north-west end, and all the +above-mentioned buildings are to the south and east of it, covering +ground now devoted to offices and mansions. A good deal of the buildings +was standing even at the beginning of the nineteenth century, when it +was demolished to make way for the approaches to Waterloo Bridge. + +At the east corner of what is now Wellington Street stood Wimbledon +House, built by Sir Edward Cecil, son to the first Earl of Exeter. It +was burned down in 1628. + +The great palace called Somerset House was at first built by the +Protector Somerset, brother of Jane Seymour. He cleared away to make +room for it the palace of the Bishops of Worcester and Chester, the +Strand Inn belonging to the Temple, and many other buildings. The +cloister on the north side of St. Paul's containing the "Dance of Death" +was demolished in order to find stones for the new building, which was +unfinished when the Protector was beheaded in 1552. The architect is +supposed to have been John of Padua. It is not, however, certain how far +the place was completed at the death of the Protector. Elizabeth gave +the keeping of the house to her kinsman, Lord Hunsdon. James called it +Denmark House. Charles gave it to his Queen, Henrietta Maria, and built +a chapel for the Roman Catholic service. Some of the Queen's attendants +are buried here; their tombs are in vaults under the great square. A +register of the marriages, baptisms and burials which have taken place +at Somerset House has been published by Sir T. Philips. Here Henrietta +appeared in a masque; here died Inigo Jones; here Oliver Cromwell's body +lay in state; after the Restoration Henrietta returned here for a time; +Catherine of Braganza succeeded; here the body of Monk, Duke of +Albemarle, lay in state; and here, after Catherine left England, the +place became like the Savoy, the favoured residence of the poorer +nobility. The old building was destroyed in 1775. + +In the new Somerset House, erected 1776-1786--architect, Sir William +Chambers--were for many years held the meetings of the Royal Society; +the Society of Antiquaries; the Royal Academy of Arts; the Astronomical, +Geological and Geographical Societies. A great deal of public business +is carried on at Somerset House. The east wing is occupied by King's +College, founded in 1828. Opposite to Somerset House a stream came down +from the higher ground; it was crossed by the Strand Bridge. The waters +flowed through the palace into the river. + +On the east side of Somerset House stood Arundel House, originally +Bath's Inn, as the town-house of the Bishop of Bath and Wells. In this +house were set up the famous Arundel marbles. The Duc de Sully, who was +lodged here during his embassy to England on the accession of James I., +speaks of it as a most commodious house. Near Arundel House and Somerset +House was an Inn of Chancery called Chester Inn. + +Among the buildings destroyed to make room for Somerset House was a +small church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and, according to some, to +St. Ursula. The Duke of Somerset promised to build another for the +people, but was beheaded before he could fulfil his promise. On the +present site of St. Mary's Church, and at the west end, stood a stone +cross where the justices itinerant sat at certain seasons, and also on +the site was the old Strand well. The cross became decayed, and a +maypole was erected either on its site or close beside it. The Puritans +pulled down the maypole, but after the Restoration another and a much +taller one, measuring in two pieces 134 feet, was put up by sailors +under the direction of the Duke of York amid the rejoicings of the +people. The maypole stood until 1713, when the remaining portion was +carried away to Wanstead Park, where it was used for holding a +telescope. The Church of St. Mary le Strand was built 1714-1723 by James +Gibbs. It was the first of the fifty new churches ordered (not all +built) by Queen Anne, and it was at first called New Church. The style +of the church has been vehemently abused, and yet it has grown in favour +and has now many admirers. It is divided into two parts, of which the +lower has no window, being built solid to keep out the noise of the +street. The windows are in the upper part. The church within is nobly +ornamented and is without galleries. Before the west end of the church +was the first stand for hackney coaches. + + "Around that area side they take their stand, + Where the tall maypole o'erlooked the Strand; + And now--so Anne and Piety ordain-- + A church collects the saints of Drury Lane." + +And again the poet asks: + + "What's not destroyed by Time's devouring hand? + Where's Troy--and where's the Maypole in the Strand?" + +Mrs. Inchbald lived by the side of the New Church in the Strand. + +The immense changes taking place in the Strand begin to be very +noticeable opposite Somerset House. At the time of writing a few houses +at the corner of Wellington Street are still standing, but will soon +disappear. + +On the south side of the Strand, just beyond the east end of St. Mary's +Church, is a narrow entry called Strand Lane. This was formerly Strand +Bridge, over one of the rivulets running down to the Thames, and later +it still retained the same name, meaning the bridge or landing stairs at +the river end. + +Some way down this lane there is a notice pointing out a Roman bath +which is still in existence and well worth seeing. The bath now belongs +to Messrs. Glave, drapers in New Oxford Street, and is open free of +charge for anyone to inspect between eleven and twelve o'clock on +Saturday mornings. It is a rough vaulted chamber which has wisely been +left without any attempt at decoration, and the bath itself measures +about six yards by one and a half. It is four feet in depth, and is fed +by a spring which continually flows in. Subscribers are allowed to use +it on the payment of two guineas per annum. There was formerly a +companion bath quite near, but this was done away with at the building +of the Norfolk Hotel. The slabs of white marble which form the pavement +of the existing bath were taken from it. It is curious that such a +relic, computed to be perhaps 2,000 years old, should survive hidden and +almost unnoticed, where so many buildings long anterior in date have +utterly vanished. The bath is not mentioned by Stow or Malcolm in their +accounts of London, and probably was not discovered when they wrote. + +In Surrey Street Congreve died in 1729. The greater part of this and the +neighbouring streets has been very recently rebuilt. Huge modern +red-brick mansions with all the latest conveniences of electric light +and lifts replace the old mansion which once stood here. These are +carefully built and not unpicturesque; they are let in flats, and house +a multitude of offices, clubs, etc. They are called by the names of the +noble families who once lived here--Arundel House, Mowbray House, and +Howard House. In Norfolk Street there are hotels and a small ladies' +club, the Writers', the only women's club in London which demands a +professional qualification from its members. Peter the Great lodged in +this street, and William Penn, the Quaker, was at the last house in the +south-west corner. + +In Howard Street Mrs. Bracegirdle, the actress, once lodged, and a wild +attempt was made by an admirer to carry her off one night as she +returned from the theatre. The well-known duellist, Lord Mohun, took +part in the outrage which ended in the death of the actor Mountford. +Congreve was also a resident in Howard Street, removing afterwards to +Surrey Street. The old Crown and Anchor Tavern stood in Arundel Street, +in which was the Whittington Club, founded by Douglas Jerrold, who was +the first president. At the corner of Arundel Street is the depot of W. +H. Smith and Sons, the largest book and newspaper business in the world, +having the monopoly of the station bookstalls. + +St. Clement Danes Church, at the east end of the Strand, is said to have +been so called because the Danes who remained after Alfred's final +victory were made to live in this quarter. The church is of extreme +antiquity. That which was taken down in 1680 was certainly not the +earliest. In its churchyard lie the remains of King Harold. The new +church was built by Edward Pierce, under the superintendence of Wren. +The present tower and steeple were added by Gibbs. St. Clement's has +long been famous for its bells, commented on in the children's game: + + "Oranges and lemons + Say the bells of St. Clement's." + +Oranges and lemons used to be distributed among the parish poor at +certain seasons. The bells, ten in number, still peal as merrily as of +old. In the gallery a brass plate with an inscription marks the spot +where Dr. Johnson regularly sat in his attendance at service. The body +of the church is filled with high old-fashioned pews, and the pulpit is +a peculiarly rich bit of work attributed to Grinling Gibbons, though it +does not altogether follow the usual type of his designs. Several +monuments hang on the walls and pillars, but none of any general +interest. In the church are buried Otway and Nathaniel Lee. The plate +belonging to the church is very handsome and valuable, of silver, and +some pieces date back to the time of Queen Elizabeth. The registers also +commence at 1558, and contain several interesting entries. One of the +earliest is the baptism of Robert Cecil, June 6, 1563, son of the High +Treasurer, who was himself Prime Minister under Elizabeth and James I. + +Essex Street recalls the fascinating and unhappy Essex, favourite of +Queen Elizabeth. Essex House was built on the above-mentioned piece of +ground called the Outer Temple which never belonged to the lawyers, but +had been annexed by the Bishops of Exeter in the reign of the second +Edward. This was then known as Exeter House. It was sacked by the +populace in the same reign, and the unlucky prelate Walter Stapledon, +who had taken the side of the King in his disputes with the Queen, was +carried off and beheaded. The house was rebuilt, and continued to belong +to the See until the reign of Henry VIII. But it seemed to have some +malignant influence, for nearly all its successive owners suffered some +unhappy fate. Lord Paget, who occupied it during Henry VIII.'s reign, +narrowly escaped being beheaded. Thomas Howard, fourth son of the Duke +of Norfolk, who succeeded, died in the Tower after many years of +imprisonment. Dudley, Earl of Leicester, followed, and during his period +of residence the house can claim association with the name of Spenser, +who was a frequent visitor. Leicester escaped the malevolent influence +of the house, which he left to his son-in-law, Robert Devereux, Earl of +Essex. During the Earl's occupancy the mansion went through some stormy +scenes. It was here that he assembled his fellow-conspirators which he +left to his step-son, Robert Devereux, to arouse the people to aid him +to obtain possession of the Queen's person, but he found his popularity +unequal to the demand. The people turned against him, and he was driven +back to his own house, which he barricaded. But his resistance was +useless. Artillery was employed against him, and a gun mounted on the +tower of St. Clement's Church. He was forced to surrender, and being +found guilty of high treason, was executed. After the Restoration the +house was let in tenements. It was pulled down about the end of the +seventeenth century, but the Watergate at the end of the street is said +to have been a part of it. The street was built in 1862. Dr. Johnson +established here a small club known as the Essex Head Club. + +The Essex Street Chapel, which was the headquarters of the Unitarians in +London, was built upon part of the site of the house; Smith says it was +part of the original building. The Cottonian Library was kept here from +1712 to 1730. A lecture-hall now stands on the site of the chapel. The +Ethical Society give lectures here on Sunday evenings. + +With Temple Bar the City of London, or, rather, the Liberties thereof, +begin, and it is here that on great state occasions the Lord Mayor meets +his Sovereign and hands to him the keys of the City. The first building +on this spot was a timber house, but the exact date of its erection +cannot be ascertained. It was probably put up for the decoration of a +pageant, and, being found useful, was kept up. The gate has been often +taken to have been part of the defences of the City, which it certainly +was not, being protected or strengthened with neither moat nor +drawbridge, nor being strong enough for the mounting of cannon. The Bar, +a simple arrangement of chain and rails, is mentioned as early as 1301, +but it cannot be ascertained that there was any building upon it. In +1502 the custody of the Bar, together with that of Newgate and Ludgate, +is assigned to Alderman Fabian and others. + +In 1533 it would seem that a gate was standing here, because for the +reception of Anne Boleyn Temple Bar was newly painted and repaired, +"whereon stood divers singing men and children." Again in 1547, for the +coronation of Edward VI., the Bar was painted and fashioned with +battlements. In 1554 the "new gates" of Temple Bar were assigned to the +custody of the City. Aggas's map shows the Bar as a covered gate. The +gateway was very cumbersome, blocking up an already narrow street. Among +other ceremonies it witnessed the progresses of Queen Elizabeth and +Queen Anne respectively, to return thanks in St. Paul's Cathedral, the +one for deliverance from the Armada, and the other in gratitude for +Marlborough's victories. Inigo Jones, when he was engaged upon the +Restoration of St. Paul's, was invited to furnish a design for a new +arch. He complied, but his design was never carried out. It was engraved +in 1727. + +The Great Fire was checked before it reached Temple Bar. In 1670, +however, the old gate was removed and its successor built by Wren. The +familiar gate, still (1902) remembered by everybody who has reached +manhood, was removed in the year 1878, and a monument with the City +Dragon, colloquially known as the Griffin, was put up on the site of the +Bar. The stones of the ancient building were preserved, and have been +rebuilt in the park of Sir H. Meux at Cheshunt. One of the decorations +of the later gateway consisted of iron spikes on which the heads of +traitors were displayed, notably those of the men incriminated in the +rebellions of the eighteenth century. When a high wind arose, these +heads were sometimes blown down into the street below, a sight better to +be imagined than described. From this circumstance Temple Bar was +sometimes called the Golgotha of London. + +Here we turn westward, and resume our perambulation in the part lying +along the northern side of the Strand, which has not yet been described. + +The parish of St. Clement Danes has changed very greatly since ancient +times, when a large part of it, stretching from Lincoln's Inn Fields to +the Strand, was known as Fickett's Field, and was the jousting-place of +the Templars. This portion became gradually covered with houses and +courts, which were at first fashionable dwelling-places, and were +associated with noble names. These degenerated until, at the beginning +of the present century, a vast rookery of noisome tenements, inhabited +by the poorest and most wretched people, covered the greater part of the +parish to the north of the Strand. The erection of the new Law Courts, +1868, entirely swept away numbers of these tenements, and opened out the +parish to the north of the church. The change thus effected paved the +way for further reformation, and though the streets about the site of +Clare Market are poor and squalid, they show a beginning of better +things, and no longer own such an evil reputation as they did. + +Further north, beyond King's College Hospital, is Portugal Street, +called by Strype "Playhouse Street." In the times of the later Stuarts +it was a very fashionable locality. It is said that women first +performed on the stage in public at the King's Theatre, in this street. +The players were often patronized by Pepys. In 1717 the first English +opera was performed here, and in 1727 the "Beggar's Opera" was produced +with unprecedented success; but in 1835 the theatre in Portugal Street +was taken down to make room for the enlargement of the museum belonging +to the College of Surgeons. + +Portsmouth Street contains a quaint, low, red-tiled house purporting to +be the Old Curiosity Shop of Dickens' novel. The Black Jack Tavern, of +some notoriety, stood here. It was the resort of the actors and +dramatists of the adjacent theatre, and was the scene of a famous +escape of Jack Sheppard from the Bow Street officers. It is said to have +been a meeting-place of the Cato Street conspirators. + +Shear or Shire Lane formerly ran from the east end of Carey Street to +the Strand, and formed the parish boundary. This was a narrow, dirty +lane of the vilest reputation before its demolition, but it had known +better days. A very famous tavern stood in the lane, first called the +Cat and Fiddle, later the Trumpet, and still later the Duke of York's. +The well-known Kitcat Club met here originally. This was a society of +thirty-nine gentlemen or noblemen zealously attached to the Protestant +succession in the House of Hanover, and originated about 1700. Addison +and Steele, Congreve, Vanbrugh, and others of celebrity, besides the +Dukes of Somerset, Devonshire, Marlborough, Newcastle, etc., and many +others, titled and untitled, were of the society. The bookseller Tonson +was the secretary, and he had his own and all their portraits painted by +Sir Godfrey Kneller, who was also a member of the club. Addison dated +many of his famous essays from this address. The lane was known in the +reign of the first James as Rogues' Lane. + +The south side of Lincoln's Inn Fields only is within our boundaries, +but the square is worth seeing. It is the largest in London, and was +partly designed by Inigo Jones, who built the west side, called the Arch +Row; the east side was bounded by the garden wall of Lincoln's Inn; on +the north was Holborn Row; the south side was Portugal Row. The history +of Lincoln's Inn Fields is a curious combination of rascality and of +aristocracy. The rascals infested the fields, which were filled with +wrestlers, rogues and cheats, pick-pockets, cripples and footpads; the +aristocrats occupied the stately houses on the west side. Among the +residents here were Lord Somers, the Duke of Newcastle, Lord Kenyon, +Lord Erskine, and Spencer Percival. In the fields Babington and his +accomplices were executed, some of them on the 20th, and some on the +21st, of September, 1586. Here also on July 21, 1683, William, Lord +Russell was beheaded. + +East of Drury Lane there lies a curious district mainly made up of lanes +now rapidly disappearing, such as Clare Market, Wild Street, and a +network of narrow courts. In 1657 Howell speaks of the Earl of Clare as +living "in a princely manner" in this neighbourhood. It was in Clare +Market that Orator Henley had his chapel. The market was one chiefly for +meat, and the shops and sheds were mainly occupied by butchers. Dr. +Radcliffe frequented a tavern in this place, and Mrs. Bracegirdle, the +actress, used to visit the market in order to assist the poor +basket-women. The place is now almost gone. There was a notorious +burial-ground, closed at last after its enormities had been exposed over +and over again. King's College Hospital is built upon a part of the +slums. Clement's Inn will be swept away by the Strand improvements. New +Inn is still standing; Danes' Inn is a modern court with offices and +residential chambers. Wych Street itself has still some of the old +houses left. In Newcastle Street was Lyons' Inn, cleared away to make +room for a theatre. + +Drury Lane derives its name from the family mansion of the Druries which +stood on the site. The brave Lord Craven bought this house and rebuilt +it. It is stated that he married privately the Queen of Bohemia, +daughter of James I. Timbs says that she occupied the house adjoining +Craven House, which was connected with it by a subterranean passage. +Craven Buildings were built in 1723 upon the site of the house; Hayman, +the artist, and Mrs. Bracegirdle, the actress, both had rooms in these +buildings. The Olympic Theatre is also partly on the site of Craven +House. + +Drury Lane was once a fashionable quarter, but lost that reputation +before many of its contemporaries, and since the time of the third +William has borne a more or less vile character. Nell Gwynne was born in +Coal Yard, which opens off on the east side. + +The Drury Lane Theatre has many interesting associations. It was built +by Killigrew in 1663, and was called the King's House, under which title +Pepys recalls many visits to it. In 1671 it was burnt down. It was +rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren, and opened 1674. Among the list of +patentees we have the names of Rich, Steele, Doggett, Wilks, Cibber, +Booth, and also Garrick, who began here his Shakespearian revivals. +Sheridan succeeded Garrick as part proprietor, and in 1788 John Kemble +became manager. The old theatre was demolished in 1791, and a new one +opened three years after. This was also burned down in 1809, and the +present theatre opened three years later. J. T. Smith takes the origin +of the theatre still further back, saying that even from the time of +Shakespeare there had been a theatre here, which had been a cockpit. The +site of the cockpit, however, is on the other side of Drury Lane, where +Pit Place now is. + +North of the theatre was a disused burial-ground, later asphalted and +turned into a public playground. It was less than a quarter of an acre +in extent. It is now built over by workmen's dwellings of the usual +kind. It was an additional burial-ground to St. Mary's le Strand, and is +mentioned by Dickens in "Bleak House." + +Crown Court recalls the Crown Tavern where _Punch_ was first projected. +The south end of Drury Lane, running into Wych Street, is now +completely altered. New Inn and Booksellers' Row, otherwise Holywell +Street, are wiped off the map, and the semicircular arm of the great new +street connecting Holborn and the Strand will come out near St. +Clement's Church. The name Holywell referred to a holy well which stood +on the spot. There were, apparently, several of these wells in the +vicinity; one was on the site of the Law Courts (_Times_, May 1, 1874). +The street was a survival of old London, with its houses picturesquely +old, with pointed gables, and it is a cause for regret that it had to go +down in the march of modern improvements (see _frontispiece_). + +Butcher Row ran round the north side of the church. It was so named from +a flesh-market established here by Edward I. Numerous small courts +opened off in the north side. Among these were Hemlock, Swan, Chair, +Crown and Star Courts. The Row and its vicinity had for many years a +notoriously bad reputation. One of the courts off Little Shear Alley was +Boswell Court, not, as some have imagined, called after Johnson's +biographer. This court was at one time a very fashionable place of +residence; Lady Raleigh, the widow of Sir Walter, lived here for three +years. + +In Butcher Row the houses were picturesque, of timber and plaster. In +one of them the great de Rosny, afterwards Duc de Sully, lodged for one +night when he came to England as the French Ambassador. + +Turning westward, we see what is left of Newcastle Street, which was +named after John Holles, Duke of Newcastle, who owned the ground (1711). +The work of demolition is going on as far as Catherine Street, where the +Gaiety theatre still stands, though not for long, for the second great +scimitar sweep of the new street will join the Strand here. + +The parish of St. Paul's lies like a leaf on the parish of St. +Martin's-in-the-Fields, by which it is wholly surrounded. Its southern +boundary runs most erratically, zigzagging in and out across the streets +which connect Maiden Lane and Henrietta Street with the Strand. The +eastern line keeps on the east side of Bow and Brydges Street. The north +passes along the north side of Hart Street, and the west cuts across the +east ends of Garrick and New Streets, keeping to the east of +Bedfordbury. + +The name Covent is a corruption of Convent, and is taken from the +convent garden of the Abbey of Westminster, which was formerly on this +site. It was written Covent, as taken from the French _couvent_ more +immediately than the Latin _conventus_. + +At the dissolution of the monasteries, Westminster Convent Garden became +Crown property. In the first year of his reign Edward VI. granted it to +the Duke of Somerset. On the fall of that nobleman it reverted to the +Crown, and in 1552 was granted to the Earl of Bedford with "seven acres, +called Long Acre." The Earl of Bedford built a town-house on his newly +acquired property, and devoted himself to the improvement of the +neighbourhood. + +Though the parish is so small, it is full of interesting associations, +chiefly of the last two centuries. Wits, actors, literary men, and +artists, frequented its taverns and swarmed in its precincts. The +contrast between its earlier days, when it was a quiet retreat where the +monks slowly paced beneath the sheltering trees, and its later +vicissitudes, when the eighteenth-century roisterers and gamesters made +merry within its taverns, could hardly be more striking. + +The great square called the Market was laid out by the Earl of Bedford +in 1631; the Piazza ran along the north and east sides; the church and +churchyard formed the west side; on the south was the wall of Bedford +House, and by a small grove of trees in the middle stood a sundial. The +place gradually grew as a market. In 1710 there were only a few sheds; +in 1748 the sheds had become tenements, with upper rooms inhabited by +bakers, cooks and retailers of gin. + +The square itself is redolent of memories. When first built it was one +of the most fashionable parts of London, and the names of the occupiers +were all titled or distinguished. We read among them those of the Bishop +of Durham, Duke of Richmond, Earl of Oxford, Marquis of Winchester, Sir +Godfrey Kneller, and the Earl of Sussex. The arcade, or Piazza, as it +was called, was a fashionable lounging-place, and many foundling +children were called Piazza in its honour. One of the scenes in Otway's +"Soldier of Fortune" is laid here, and also one in Wycherley's "Country +Wife." Sir Peter Lely had a house in the square, and this house was +successively occupied by Sir Godfrey Kneller and Sir James Thornhill +(Timbs). Coffee-houses and taverns abounded in and about the square. Of +these the most famous were Will's, Button's and Tom's, well known by the +references to them in contemporary literature. The first of these in +point of time was "Will's," which stood at the north corner of Russell +and Bow Streets (see p. 106). + +The Bedford Coffee-house under the Piazza succeeded Button's, or, +rather, came into vogue afterwards when Garrick, Quin, Foote and others +used it. The house stood at the north-east corner. It is described as a +place of resort for critics. "Everyone you meet is a polite scholar and +critic ... the merit of every production of the press is weighed and +determined." Apparently a place where the conversation was a continual +attempt at smartness; it must have been most fatiguing. The weak point, +indeed, of this public life was the demand it created for conversational +display. The greater part of Johnson's pithy sayings were delivered in +such a mixed company, and were prepared in sonorous English to suit the +company. + +An article in the _London Mercury_, January 13, 1721, states that there +were twenty-two gaming-houses in the parish. Besides all these +attractions, there was Covent Garden theatre opened in 1733 by Rich, +though the first patent had been granted to Sir William Davenant. In +1746 Garrick joined Rich, but at the end of the season left him for +Drury Lane, taking with him all the best actors. In 1803 Kemble became +proprietor and stage-manager, but five years later the theatre was +completely burnt. It was rebuilt under the directions of R. Smirke, and +when re-opened was the scene of a singularly pertinacious revolt. The +prices had been raised in consequence of the improved accommodation, and +the people in the pit banded themselves together under the name of "Old +Prices," and made such an intolerable uproar that the piece could not +proceed. Smith says "the town seemed to have lost its senses." For weeks +people wore O.P. hats and O.P. handkerchiefs, and interrupted every +attempt to carry the play through. In the end a compromise was made. In +1840 Charles Kemble left the theatre, and the building was leased to C. +Mathews, Madame Vestris and Macready. In 1847 it was opened as an +Italian Opera-House after being almost rebuilt. It was again destroyed +by fire in 1856, but the facade was saved with its bas-reliefs and +statues by Flaxman and Rossi. These were placed on the present building +designed by Barry, which was opened two years later. + +The Church of St. Paul, Covent Garden, was built by Inigo Jones in 1633 +at the expense of the Earl of Bedford; consecrated by Bishop Juxon in +1638; destroyed by fire in 1795; rebuilt by John Hardwick in the place +of the original building. And the story goes that when the architect +heard the commission, "to build a church not much bigger than a barn," +he replied it should be the handsomest barn in England. + +Buried here are Robert Carr, Earl of Somerset; Sir Henry Herbert and +Samuel Butler, author of "Hudibras," died 1680; Sir Peter Lely, died +1680, whose monument was destroyed in the fire; Edward Kynaston, actor; +Wycherley, the dramatist; Grinling Gibbons, died 1721, sculptor in wood; +Susannah Centlivre; Dr. Arne, musician, died 1778; Charles Macklin, +comedian, died 1797 at the age of 107; John Wolcott, _alias_ Peter +Pindar, died 1819. The registers begin at 1615, and among the baptismal +entries are the names of Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, May 26, 1689, and +Turner, the painter, May 14, 1775. + +The church is visible from the street on the east and the market on the +west, but accessible only by a covered entry under the houses on the +north and south. In Hogarth's picture of "Morning" we get a glimpse of +the old church before its destruction, with clock-dial, and tiled roof, +not so very dissimilar from what it is at present. + +The election of members for Westminster formerly took place on a +hustings before the church, when there were scenes of wild riot. The +most memorable of these elections was that of Fox and Sir Cecil Wray in +1784. + +Bow Street, Covent Garden, was built in 1637, and named after its shape, +that of a bent bow. It is remarkable for the number of well-known +persons who have lived in it. It was one of the most fashionable streets +in the Metropolis, and Dryden wrote in the epilogue to one of his plays: + + "I've had to-day a dozen billet-doux + From fops and wits and cits and Bow Street beaux;" + +on which Sir Walter Scott remarked a billet-doux from Bow Street would +now be more alarming than flattering. The police officer began his reign +here in 1749. + +Henry Fielding, who was in authority in 1753, did much to suppress the +unbridled license and open highway robbery of the Metropolis. + +Will's Coffee-house was at No. 1, on the west side, the corner of +Russell Street. The principal room was on the first floor. Dryden made +the house the chief place of resort for the poets and wits of the time. +After his death Addison took the company across the street to Button's. +Ned Ward's notes on Will's are not respectful. + +"From thence we adjourned to the Wits' Coffee-house.... Accordingly, +upstairs we went, and found much company, but little talk.... We +shuffled through this moving crowd of philosophical mutes to the other +end of the room, where three or four wits of the upper class were +rendezvous'd at a table, and were disturbing the ashes of the old poets +by perverting their sense.... At another table were seated a parcel of +young, raw, second-rate beaus and wits, who were conceited if they had +but the honour to dip a finger and thumb into Mr. Dryden's snuff-box" +(Cunningham, p. 555.). + +Defoe, on the other hand, is more complimentary:-- + + "Now view the beaus at Will's, the men of wit, + By nature nice, and for discerning fit, + The finished fops, the men of wig and muff. + Knights of the famous oyster-barrel snuff." + +At Button's there was a carved lion's head, of which the mouth was a +letter-box for contributions to the _Guardian_ and _Tatler_. This was +set up by Addison in 1713, and attracted much attention. It was removed +in 1731 to the Shakespeare Tavern, and later came into the possession of +the Duke of Bedford. Tom's was the last of the three famous houses. It +was started by a waiter from Will's, and managed to hold its own. It was +on the north side of the street, nearly opposite Button's. + +The literary associations of the street are innumerable. Wycherley +lodged here, and after an illness was visited by Charles II., who gave +him L500 for a trip to France. The well-known Cock Tavern was just +opposite his rooms, and when Wycherley had married the Countess of +Drogheda he used to sit in the tavern with the windows open so that his +jealous wife could see there were no women in his company. This tavern +was the resort of the rakes and mohocks that for a while made the +neighbourhood a terror to decent people. Henry Fielding wrote "Tom +Jones" while living in this street. Grinling Gibbons died here. Edmund +Waller, the poet, lived here during the Commonwealth, and Robert Harley, +Earl of Oxford, was born here in 1661. Radcliffe, the Court physician, +was a resident in the beginning of the eighteenth century. + +The streets opening out of the square can boast many interesting +associations. + +Henrietta Street was named after Charles I.'s Queen. Samuel Cooper, +miniature-painter, lived here. The Castle Tavern, where Sheridan fought +with Mathews on account of Miss Linley, was in this street. + +Maiden Lane can claim several illustrious names. It was the birthplace +of Turner; Andrew Marvell and Voltaire both lodged here. + +Long Acre was originally an open field called the Elms, and later known +as Seven Acres, from a grant of land made to the Duke of Bedford. A +curious house-to-house survey of 1650 is preserved in the Augmentation +Office. From this it would appear that the street at that date was full +of small shops, grocers, chandlers, etc., with here and there a big +house occupied by some titled person. Ever since the first introduction +of coaches Long Acre has been particularly favoured by coachbuilders, +and at the present time it is lined by carriage-works. Long Acre was the +scene of many convivial gatherings in the Hanoverian times. It can claim +the first "mug-house," an institution which speedily became popular. +Oliver Cromwell lived on the south side of Long Acre, and Dryden and +Butler in Rose Street, a dirty little alley half destroyed by the +building of Garrick Street. Here Dryden was set upon by three hired +bullies at the command of Lord Rochester, who was insulted by some +satirical lines which he attributed to the poet. + +Garrick Street was built about 1864, and the club of the same name was +founded for the patronage of dramatic art. + +St. Martin's Lane is one of the oldest thoroughfares in the parish. It +was built about 1613, and was then known as West Church Lane. It ran +right through to the front of Northumberland House, and prints are still +extant showing the church peeping over the line of houses on the western +side. + +St. Martin's Lane claims many celebrated names, and was a favourite +resort for artists. The house in which Inigo Jones lived is still +pointed out--No. 31 on the east side. Almost exactly opposite this is +the Public Library, built at the same time as the Municipal Buildings; +it contains a fine reference collection (see also p. 21.) The lane +abounds with memories of the past. In St. Peter's Court Roubiliac +established a studio, afterwards a drawing academy, which numbered +Hayman, Cipriani, Ramsay, Cosway, Nollekens, Reynolds and Hogarth among +its members; this was the predecessor of the Royal Academy. This court +was two or three doors above the Free Library, and was eventually closed +up at the west end by the Garrick Theatre. No. 114 is traditionally on +the site of the mansion of the Earls of Salisbury, in which, also +traditionally, the Seven Bishops were confined before being committed +to the Tower. The names of Chippendale, Nathaniel Hone and Fuseli are +associated with the lane, also Sir Joshua Reynolds and Sir James +Thornhill. + +Old Slaughter's Coffee-house alone is enough to redeem any street from +oblivion. This was established in 1692, and stood on the spot where +Cranbourne Street now crosses the end of St. Martin's Lane. It was a +favourite resort of all the painters and sculptors of the time, not to +mention the wits and beaux. Hogarth was a constant visitor, his house in +Leicester Square being conveniently near. Roubiliac, Gainsborough, and +also Wilkie, came to enjoy society at Old Slaughter's, and Pope and +Dryden are known to have visited it. The first chess club in London was +established here in 1747. + +And now we have strolled around the chosen area, making Trafalgar Square +the centre, and returning to and fro in two great loops eastward and +westward, resembling a true lovers' knot. We have been in the company of +King and courtier, rebel and wit. We have consorted with the gay fops of +the eighteenth century in their club and coffee house life, and we have +seen the haunts of men whose names are household words wherever the +English tongue is spoken. + +It has been chiefly seventeenth and eighteenth century life that has +enchained us as we read the pages of the past, and in its richness and +variety at least the eighteenth century would be difficult to rival. +Prosaic London, with her borough councils, her Strand improvements, and +her immense utilitarian flats, still retains the glamour of her bygone +days, and if her present buildings are without much attraction, they are +glorified by the halo of their association with their fascinating +predecessors. + + + + +INDEX + + +Albemarle, Duchess of, 74 + +Albemarle, Duke of, 83 + +Addison, 58, 95, 106 + +Adelphi, 72 + +Adelphi Terrace, 74 + +Admiralty, 12 + +Agar Street, 71 + +Apsley House, 52 + +Arlington House, 2 + +Arne, Dr., 104 + +Arundel Street, 88 + +Astley, 62 + + +Babington, 96 + +Bacon, 71 + +Baily, 27 + +Beauclerk, Topham, 30 + +Beaufort Buildings, 77 + +Beckford, Alderman, 33 + +Bedford Coffee House, 102 + +Bedford House, 77 + +Belines, 27 + +Berkshire House, 58 + +Bermudas, 16 + +Bleak House, 98 + +Blessington, Lady, 50 + +Blood, Colonel, 57 + +Bohemia, Queen of, 22, 97 + +Bolingbroke, Lord, 40 + +Booksellers' Row, 99 + +Boswell Court, 99 + +Bow Street, 105 + +Bracegirdle, Mrs., 88, 96, 97 + +Braganza, Catherine, 83 + +Bridgewater House, 37, 58 + +Buckingham, Duke of, 2, 12 + +Buckingham Palace, 1 + +Buckingham Street, 71 + +Burdett, Sir Francis, 76 + +Burke, Edmund, 29, 30, 54 + +Burlington Arcade, 44 + +Burlington Gardens, 44 + +Burlington House, 43 + +Burney, Miss, 23, 58 + +Bury Street, 64 + +Butcher Row, 99 + +Butler, Samuel, 104, 108 + +Button's Coffee House, 106 + +Byron, Lord, 57, 61 + + +Canning, George, 10, 54 + +Caribbean Islands, 16 + +Carlisle House, 33 + +Carlton House, 8 + +Carlton House Terrace, 8 + +Caroline, Queen, 52 + +Catherine Street, 107 + +Cecil Hotel, 76 + +Cecil House, 77 + +Centlivre, Susannah, 104 + +Chandos Street, 72 + +Chapel Street (Soho), 30 + +Charing Cross, 13 + +Charing Cross Road, 21, 30 + +Charing Cross Station, 70 + +Charles Street, 49, 54 + +Charlotte, Queen, 2 + +Chaucer, Geoffrey, 17, 81 + +Chaworth, Mr., 61 + +Chester Inn, 84 + +Chippendale, 110 + +Churches: + Chapel Royal, 7 + Essex Street Chapel, 91 + German Chapel, 7 + St. Anne's, 25 + St. Clement Danes, 88 + St. James's, 41 + St. Martin's, 18 + St. Mary le Strand, 85 + St. Mary the Virgin, 30 + St. Patrick, 35 + St. Paul's, Covent Garden, 104 + St. Philip's, 64 + +Cibber, Colley, 10 + +Cibber, Mrs., 40 + +Clare, Earl of, 96 + +Clare Market, 96 + +Clarence House, 6 + +Clarendon, Lord, 77 + +Clarges, Anne, 73 + +Clement's Inn, 97 + +Cleveland House, 52 + +Cleveland Square, 58 + +Clubs: + Albany, 44 + Almack's, 45, 56 + Army and Navy, 52 + Arthur's, 56 + Athenaeum, 63 + Boodle's, 55 + Brooke's, 56 + Button's, 106 + Carlton, 63 + Cocoa-tree, 56 + Colonial, 52 + Conservative, 56 + East India United Service, 52 + Guards, 61 + Junior Carlton, 53 + Junior United Service, 65 + Kitcat, 95 + New Oxford and Cambridge, 61 + Old Slaughter's Coffee House, 110 + Oxford and Cambridge University, 52, 61 + Pall Mall, 51 + Parthenon, 53 + Portland, 60 + Reform, 63 + Rumpsteak, 61 + Savage, 75 + Sports, 50 + St. James's Coffee House, 57 + Thatched House, 57 + Tom's, 107 + Travellers', 63 + Union, 18 + United Service, 64 + White's, 55 + Whittington, 88 + Will's Coffee House, 106 + Willis's Rooms, 45 + Windham, 51 + Writers', 87 + +College of Physicians, 18 + +Congreve, 87, 88 + +Constitution Hill, 1 + +Cooper, Samuel, 108 + +Cornelys, Mrs., 34 + +Cosway, 62 + +Cottonian Library, 91 + +Coutt's Bank, 75 + +Covent Garden, 100 + +Covent Garden Market, 101 + +Coventry Street, 39 + +Crabbe, 54 + +Craig's Court, 11 + +Craven, Lord, 41, 97 + +Craven House, 97 + +Craven Street, 70 + +Cromwell, Oliver, 83, 108 + +Crown Court, 98 + +Crown Street, 30 + + +Dane's Inn, 97 + +Dean Street, 26 + +Delaney, Mrs., 58 + +De Quincey, 29, 36, 40 + +Derby, Earl of, 50 + +Derby House, 48 + +Dickens, 72 + +Drummond's Bank, 10 + +Drury Lane, 97 + +Dryden, 4, 29, 106, 108, 110 + +Duke Street, 45, 71 + +Durham House, 72 + +Duval, Claude, 72 + + +Essex, Earl of, 90 + +Essex House, 89 + +Essex Street, 89 + +Evelyn, 4 + +Exeter Hall, 78 + +Exeter House, 77, 89 + +Exeter Street, 77 + + +Fielding, Henry, 105, 107 + +Flaxman, 26 + +Fleetwood, General, 12 + +Fox, C., 57 + +France, King John of, 80 + +Francis, Philip, 51 + +Franklin, Benjamin, 70 + +Frederick, Prince of Wales, 8, 22 + +Free Library, 109 + +Frith Street, 27, 30 + +Froissart, 81 + + +Gainsborough, 62, 110 + +Gaming House, 37 + +Garrick, 98, 103 + +Garrick Street, 109 + +Gaunt, John of, 81 + +Gay, 77 + +George III., 22 + +Gerrard Street, 29 + +Gibbon, 57 + +Gibbons, Grinling, 104, 107 + +Gladstone, Mr., 50 + +Godolphin House, 4 + +Golden Cross Hotel, 70 + +Golden Square, 40 + +Goldsmith, Dr., 30 + +Gordon, General, 17 + +Gordon Riots, 22 + +Green Park, 1 + +Grenville, 59 + +Grey, Lady Jane, 73 + +Guards' Monument, 64 + +Gwynne, Nell, 20, 53, 60, 97 + + +Halifax House, 52 + +Handel, 44 + +Hartshorn Lane, 16 + +Hawkins, Sir J., 30 + +Hayman, 27, 97 + +Haymarket, 65 + +Hazlitt, 26 + +Hedge Lane, 67 + +Henley, Orator, 96 + +Henrietta Maria, 83 + +Henrietta Street, 107 + +Hog Lane, 30 + +Hogarth, 27, 110 + +Holywell Street, 99 + +Hone, Nathaniel, 62, 110 + +Hospitals: + Charing Cross, 71 + Diseases of the Heart and Paralysis, 32 + King's College, 94, 97 + For Women, 32 + +Howard Street, 88 + +Howard, Thomas, 90 + +Hume, David, 30 + +Hungerford Market, 70 + + +Inchbald, Mrs., 28, 86 + +Irving, Henry, 78 + +Italian Opera Company, 66 + +Ivy Bridge Lane, 76 + + +Jeffries, Lord, 29 + +Jermyn Street, 41, 45 + +Jerrold, Douglas, 88 + +Johnson, Dr., 30, 48, 78, 89, 91 + +John Street, 53, 75 + +Jones, Inigo, 11, 83, 109 + +Jonson, Ben, 16 + +Joyce, Colonel, 17 + + +Kauffman, Angelica, 40 + +Kean, Edmund, 30 + +Kemble, Charles, 30, 104 + +Kemp's Field, 25 + +King's College, 84 + +King Street, 45 + +King William Street, 71 + +Kneller, Sir Godfrey, 102 + +Konigsmarck, Count, 60 + +Kynaston, Edward, 104 + + +Langton, Mr., 30 + +Law Courts, 94 + +Lawrence, Sir Thomas, 23 + +Lee, Nathaniel, 89 + +Leicester, Earl of, 80, 90 + +Leicester Square, 21 + +Lely, Sir Peter, 102, 104 + +Lichfield House, 51 + +Lightfoot, Hannah, 65 + +Lincoln's Inn Fields, 96 + +Locket's Ordinary, 10 + +London House, 48 + +London Library, 51 + +Long Acre, 108 + +Lord Mayor of London, 24 + + +Macklin, Charles, 104 + +Maiden Lane, 108 + +Marble Arch, 3 + +Market Street, 65 + +Marlborough House, 7 + +Marvel, Andrew, 108 + +Mathews, Charles, 24, 76 + +Milton, 11 + +Mohun, Lord, 88 + +Monmouth, Duke of, 32, 77 + +Monmouth House, 31 + +Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, 105 + +Monument, The, 17 + +Moore, Thomas, 54 + +Mountford, 88 + +Mozart, 27 + +Mulberry Gardens, 3 + + +National Gallery, 18 + +National Portrait Gallery, 21 + +Nelson, 17 + +Newcastle Street, 97, 100 + +New Exchange, 73 + +New Inn, 97, 99 + +Newton, Sir Isaac, 23, 45 + +Nollekins, 27 + +Norfolk Hotel, 87 + +Norfolk House, 48 + +Norfolk Street, 87 + +Northumberland, Earl of, 15 + +Northumberland House, 15 + +Nugent, Dr., 30 + + +Oates, Titus, 15 + +Old Curiosity Shop, 94 + +Old Scotland Yard, 11 + +Onslow, Speaker, 35 + +Orange Court, 30 + +Ormond, Duke of, 57, 77 + +Ormond House, 50 + +Ossulston House, 49 + +Otway, 89 + +Oxford, Earl of, 107 + + +Paget, Lord, 90 + +Paine, 62 + +Pall Mall, 59 + +Pall Mall East, 64 + +Panton Street, 39 + +Park Place, 58 + +Penn, William, 87 + +Pepys, 4, 94, 98 + +Peter the Great, 71, 87, 95 + +Piazza, The, 101 + +Piccadilly, 38 + +Piccadilly Circus, 41 + +Pindar, Peter, 104 + +Pitt, 50, 58 + +Pope, Alexander, 58, 110 + +Portsmouth Street, 94 + +Portugal Street, 94 + +Postlethwaite, 24 + +Public Library, 21 + +_Punch_, 98 + + +Radcliffe, Dr., 96, 107 + +Raleigh, Lady, 99 + +Raleigh, Sir Walter, 73 + +Regent Street, 40 + +Reynolds, Sir Joshua, 23, 30, 110 + +Rich, 103 + +Rodney, Admiral, 59 + +Rogers, Samuel, 58 + +Rolls, The, 93 + +Roman Bath, 86 + +Romilly, Sir Samuel, 27 + +Roubiliac, 110 + +Roxburgh Library, 51 + +Royal Mews, 16 + +Rupert, Prince, 10 + +Russell, Lord William, 96 + + +Sackville Street, 43 + +Salisbury House, 76 + +Savage, Richard, 48 + +Savoy, 78 + +Savoy, Peter of, 80 + +Schomberg House, 62 + +Scott, Sir Walter, 45 + +Shaftesbury Avenue, 24 + +Shaver's Hall, 39 + +Shear or Shire Lane, 95 + +Sheppard, Jack, 95 + +Sheridan, 43, 108 + +Shovel, Sir Cloudesley, 35 + +"Simple Story," 28 + +Societies: + Antiquaries, 44, 84 + Arts, 75 + Beefsteak, 78 + Chemical, 44 + Ethical, 91 + Geographical, 44, 84 + Geological, 84 + Linnaean, 32 + Royal, 44, 84 + Royal Academy of Arts, 84 + Royal Astronomical, 44, 84 + +Soho, 24 + +Soho Square, 31 + +Somerset, Duke of, 15 + +Somerset House, 83 + +Somerset House (New), 84 + +Somerset, Protector, 83 + +Spenser, 90 + +Spring Gardens, 8 + +Spur Alley, 70 + +St. Albans, Earl of, 37 + +St. Alban's Place, 65 + +Stafford House, 4 + +St. Catherine's Hermitage, 12 + +Steele, Sir Richard, 54, 95 + +St. James's Hall, 45 + +St. James's Market, 65 + +St. James's Palace, 4 + +St. James's Parish, 37 + +St. James's Place, 58 + +St. James's Street, 54, 67 + +St. James's Square, 46 + +St. Martin's Lane, 109 + +St. Martin's Town Hall, 21 + +St. Mary Rounceval, 13 + +St. Paul's Parish, 100 + +St. Peter's Court, 109 + +Strand Bridge, 86 + +Strand Lane, 86 + +Strand, The, 67 + +Suckling, Sir John, 39 + +Suffolk, Duke of, 70 + +Suffolk House, 15 + +Sully, Duc de, 84, 99 + +Surrey Street, 87, 88 + +Sutton Street, 35 + + +Tart Hall, 2 + +Temple Bar, 91 + +Temple, The, 93 + +Tenison, 41 + +Tenison's School, 23 + +Terry, Ellen, 78 + +Theatres: + Adelphi, 76 + Criterion, 41 + Drury Lane (King's House), 103 + Empire Music Hall, 21 + Gaiety, 100 + Haymarket, 67 + Her Majesty's, 66 + King's, 94 + Lyceum, 78 + Olympic, 97 + Vaudeville, 76 + +Theodore, King of Corsica, 25 + +Thornhill, Sir James, 27, 102, 110 + +Tom's Coffee House, 107 + +Tonson, 95 + +Tooke, Horne, 24 + +Trafalgar Square, 16 + +Tunstall, Bishop, 72 + +Turk's Head, 30 + +Turner, 27, 105, 108 + +Tyburn, 3 + +Tyler, Wat, 81 + +Tyrconnell, Duchess of, 74 + + +University of London, 44 + +Usher, Archbishop, 12 + + +Vanbrugh, Sir J., 11, 95 + +Vestris, Madame, 27 + +Victoria Embankment, 71 + +Villier's Street, 71 + +Voltaire, 108 + + +Waller, 57, 107 + +Wallingford House, 12 + +Ward, 27 + +Wardour Street, 26 + +War Office, 62 + +Warwick, Sir Philip, 10 + +Wedgwood, 28, 49 + +Wellington Street, 82 + +Western General Dispensary, 30 + +Whitcomb Street, 67 + +White Bear, 41 + +Wilkes, 58 + +Williamson, Mr., 28 + +Willis's Rooms, 45 + +Will's Coffee House, 106 + +Wimbledon House, 82 + +Winchester House, 52 + +Windmill Street, 89 + +Wolcott, John, 104 + +Wolfe, 57 + +Woodfall, 12 + +Worcester House, 77 + +Worcester, Marquis of, 77 + +Wren, Sir Christopher, 11, 57 + +Wych Street, 97 + +Wycherley, 104, 107 + +Wycliff, 81 + +Wild Street, 96 + + +York Column, 8 + +York House, 71 + +York Street, 54 + + +THE END + + * * * * * + + +BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD. + + + * * * * * + + +[Illustration: STRAND DISTRICT. + +Published by A. & C. Black, London.] + + + * * * * * + +"The work fascinates me more than anything I have ever done." + SIR WALTER BESANT. + + + + +LONDON + +IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. + + +BY +SIR WALTER BESANT. + + +_IN ONE VOLUME, ABOUT 700 PAGES, CONTAINING ILLUSTRATIONS FROM +CONTEMPORARY PRINTS, AND A MAP. DEMY 4to., CLOTH, GILT TOP, PRICE_ 30s. +net. + + +EXCERPT FROM PREFACE. + +It was my husband's ambition to be the historian of London in the +Nineteenth Century, just as Stow had been in the Sixteenth Century, and +he projected "The Survey of London," which was to be a record of the +greatest, busiest, most wealthy, most populous city in the whole world, +as it was from century to century and as it is at present. + +From this history as a whole the portion relating to the Eighteenth +Century has been chosen for present publication, not only on account of +its intrinsic interest, but because of the fascination that the period +had for the author. It will, I think, be pleasing to most readers to +find that so much space has been devoted to the social life of the +period--in fact, the book may be regarded as a Social picture of London +in the Eighteenth Century, rather than as a consecutive history. + +PUBLISHED BY A. AND C. BLACK. SOHO SQUARE. LONDON. W. + + + * * * * * + +"If you want to know anything about anybody, get a copy of 'Who's +Who'."--"Truth." + + + + +WHO'S WHO + +1903. + + +Price 5/-net. + + +_THIS YEAR'S ISSUE CONTAINS OVER 15,000 BIOGRAPHIES._ + + +AN ANTHOLOGY + +OF + +Press Opinions of the 1902 Edition. + +"The handiest, cheapest, and most useful book of the kind +published."--"The best compendium of autobiographies of the world's +leading men."--"Open it anywhere and your eyes will ever be +opened."--"Invaluable! Indispensable!"--"The most compendious book of +reference issued."--"When there is a conflict of authority it may +generally be assumed that 'Who's Who' is right."--"'Who's Who' may be +regarded as a _sine qua non_ to a business man."--"As indispensable as a +local directory in a business office. This excellent work is the nearest +approach to an English Vapereau we possess."--"Almost as necessary as +daily bread."--"A biographical dictionary which it would be difficult to +do without: 1,500 pages chock-full of information. One of those books +without which no reference library is complete." + +PUBLISHED BY A. & C. 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