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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Cobb's Bill-of-Fare, by Irvin Shrewsbury Cobb
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Cobb's Bill-of-Fare
+
+Author: Irvin Shrewsbury Cobb
+
+Illustrator: Peter Newell and James Preston
+
+Release Date: February 13, 2008 [EBook #24595]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COBB'S BILL-OF-FARE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Bryan Ness, Annie McGuire and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Book Cover]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Frontispiece]
+
+
+
+
+ _Cobb's Bill-of-Fare_
+
+ _By_
+
+ _Irvin S. Cobb_
+
+ _Author of_
+ "_The Escape of Mr. Trimm_," "_Back Home_,"
+ "_Cobb's Anatomy_," _etc._
+
+ _Illustrated by_
+ _Peter Newell and James Preston_
+
+ [Illustration]
+
+ _New York_
+ _George H. Doran Company_
+
+ COPYRIGHT, 1911 1912,
+ BY THE CURTIS PUBLISHING COMPANY
+ COPYRIGHT, 1913,
+ BY GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY
+
+
+ TO
+ R. H. DAVIS
+
+ (NOT RICHARD HARDING--
+ THE OTHER ONE)
+
+
+
+
+_AS FOLLOWS_
+
+
+ PAGE
+
+ I. VITTLES 13
+
+ II. MUSIC 47
+
+ III. ART 81
+
+ IV. SPORT 113
+
+
+
+
+_ILLUSTRATIONS_
+
+
+ PAGE
+
+ "I now greatly desire to eat some regular food." 15
+
+ "Those who in the goodness of their hearts may
+ undertake a search for the sucking pig." 35
+
+ "Where do you find the percentage of dyspeptics
+ running highest?" 41
+
+ "She tries to tear all its front teeth out with her
+ bare hands." 51
+
+ "Ro-hocked in the cra-hadle of the da-heep,
+ I la-hay me down in pe-heace to sa-leep!" 57
+
+ "Shem undoubtedly sang it when the animals were
+ hungry." 61
+
+ "And I enjoy it more than words can tell!" 67
+
+ "We looked in vain for the kind of pictures that
+ mother used to make and father used to buy." 83
+
+ "The inscrutable smile of a saleslady would make
+ Mona Lisa seem a mere amateur." 93
+
+ "A person who for reasons best known to the police
+ has not been locked up." 97
+
+ "Collision between two heavenly bodies or premature
+ explosion of a custard pie." 103
+
+ "Everything you catch is second-hand." 119
+
+ "He could beat me climbing, but at panting I had
+ him licked to a whisper." 125
+
+ "She was not much larger than a soapdish." 137
+
+ "Think of being laid face downward firmly across
+ a sinewy knee and beaten forty-love with one of
+ those hard catgut rackets!" 143
+
+
+
+
+_VITTLES_
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+Upon a certain gladsome occasion a certain man went into a certain
+restaurant in a certain large city, being imbued with the idea that he
+desired a certain kind of food. Expense was with him no object. The
+coming of the holidays had turned his thoughts backward to the care-free
+days of boyhood and he longed for the holidaying provender of his youth
+with a longing that was as wide as a river and as deep as a well.
+
+"Me, I have tried it all," he said to himself. "I have been down the
+line on this eating proposition from alphabet soup to animal crackers. I
+know the whole thing, from the nine-dollar, nine-course banquet, with
+every course bathed freely in the same kind of sauce and tasting exactly
+like all the other courses, to the quick lunch, where the only
+difference between clear soup and beef broth is that if you want the
+beef broth the waiter sticks his thumb into the clear soup and brings it
+along.
+
+"I have feasted copiously at grand hotels where they charge you corkage
+on your own hot-water bottle, and I have dallied frugally with the
+forty-cent table d'hote with wine, when the victuals were the product of
+the well-known Sam Brothers--Flot and Jet--and the wine tasted like the
+stuff that was left over from graining the woodwork for a mahogany
+finish.
+
+[Illustration: "I NOW GREATLY DESIRE TO EAT SOME REGULAR FOOD."]
+
+"I now greatly desire to eat some regular food, and if such a thing be
+humanly possible I should also prefer to eat it in silence unbroken
+except by the noises I make myself. I have eaten meals backed up so
+close to the orchestra that the leader and I were practically wearing
+the same pair of suspenders. I have been howled at by a troupe of
+Sicilian brigands armed with their national weapons--the garlic and the
+guitar. I have been tortured by mechanical pianos and automatic
+melodeons, and I crave quiet. But in any event I want food. I cannot
+spare the time to travel nine hundred miles to get it, and I must,
+therefore, take a chance here."
+
+So, as above stated, he entered this certain restaurant and seated
+himself; and as soon as the Hungarian string band had desisted from
+playing an Italian air orchestrated by a German composer he got the
+attention of an omnibus, who was Greek, and the bus enlisted the
+assistance of a side waiter, he being French, and the side waiter in
+time brought to him the head waiter, regarding whom I violate no
+confidence in stating that he was Swiss. The man I have been quoting
+then drew from his pockets a number of bank notes and piled them up
+slowly, one by one, alongside his plate. Beholding the denominations of
+these bills the head waiter with difficulty restrained himself from
+kissing the hungry man upon the bald spot on his head. The sight of a
+large bill invariably quickens the better nature of a head waiter.
+
+"Now, then," said the enhungered one, "I would have speech with you. I
+desire food--food suitable for a free-born American stomach on such a
+day as this. No, you needn't wave that menu at me. I can shut my eyes
+and remember the words and music of every menu that ever was printed. I
+don't know what half of it means because I am no court interpreter, but
+I can remember it. I can sing it, and if I had my clarinet here I could
+play it. Heave the menu over the side of the boat and listen to me. What
+I want is just plain food--food like mother used to make and mother's
+fair-haired boy used to eat. We will start off with turkey--turkey _a
+la_ America, understand; turkey that is all to the Hail Columbia, Happy
+Land. With it I want some cramberry sauce--no, not cranberry, I guess I
+know its real name--some cramberry sauce; and some mashed
+potatoes--mashed with enthusiasm and nothing else, if you can arrange
+it--and some scalloped oysters and maybe a few green peas. Likewise I
+want a large cup of coffee right along with these things--not served
+afterward in a misses' and children's sized cup, but along with the
+dinner."
+
+"Salad?" suggested the head waiter, reluctantly withdrawing his
+fascinated vision from the pile of bills. "Salad?" he said.
+
+"No salad," said the homesick stranger, "not unless you could chop me up
+some lettuce and powder it with granulated sugar and pour a little
+vinegar over it and bring it in to me with the rest of the grub. Where I
+was raised we always had chewing tobacco for the salad course, anyhow."
+
+The head waiter's whole being recoiled from the bare prospect. He seemed
+on the point of swooning, but looked at the money and came to.
+
+"Dessert?" he added, poising a pencil.
+
+"Well," said the man reflectively, "I don't suppose you could fix me up
+some ambrosia--that's sliced oranges with grated cocoanut on top. And in
+this establishment I doubt if you know anything about boiled custard,
+with egg kisses bobbing round it and sunken reefs of sponge cake
+underneath. So I guess I'd better compromise on some plum pudding; but
+mind you, not the imported English plum pudding. English plum pudding is
+not a food, it's a missile, and when eaten it is a concealed deadly
+weapon. I want an American plum pudding. Mark well my words--an
+American plum pudding.
+
+"And," he concluded, "if you can bring me these things, just so, without
+any strange African sauces or weird Oriental fixings or trans-Atlantic
+goo stirred into them or poured on to them or breathed upon them, I
+shall be very grateful to you, and in addition I shall probably make you
+independently wealthy for life."
+
+It was quite evident that the head waiter regarded him as a
+lunatic--perhaps only a lunatic in a mild form and undoubtedly one
+cushioned with ready money--but nevertheless a lunatic. Yet he indicated
+by a stately bow that he would do the best he could under the
+circumstances, and withdrew to take the matter up with the house
+committee.
+
+"Now this," said the man, "is going to be something like. To be sure the
+table is not set right. As I remember how things used to look at home
+there should be a mustache cup at Uncle Hiram's plate, so he could drink
+his floating island without getting his cream-separators mussy, and
+there ought to be a vinegar cruet at one end and a silver cake basket at
+the other and about nine kinds of pickles and jellies scattered round;
+and in the center of the table there should be a winter bouquet--a nice,
+hard, firm, dark red winter bouquet--containing, among other things, a
+sheaf of wheat, a dried cockscomb and a couple of oak galls. Yet if the
+real provender is forthcoming I can put up with the absence of the
+proper settings and decorations."
+
+He had ample leisure for these thoughts, because, as you yourself may
+have noticed, in a large restaurant when you order anything that is out
+of the ordinary--which means anything that is ordinary--it takes time to
+put the proposition through the proper channels. The waiter lays your
+application before the board of governors, and after the board of
+governors has disposed of things coming under the head of unfinished
+business and good of the order it takes a vote, and if nobody blackballs
+you the treasurer is instructed to draw a warrant and the secretary
+engrosses appropriate resolutions, and your order goes to the cook.
+
+But finally this man's food arrived. And he looked at it and sniffed at
+it daintily--like a reluctant patient going under the ether--and he
+tasted of it; and then he put his face down in his hands and burst into
+low, poignant moans. For it wasn't the real thing at all. The stuffing
+of the turkey defied chemical analysis; and, moreover, the turkey before
+serving should have been dusted with talcum powder and fitted with
+dress-shields, it being plainly a crowning work of the art
+preservative--meaning by that the cold-storage packing and pickling
+industry. And if you can believe what Doctor Wiley says--and if you
+can't believe the man who has dedicated his life to warning you against
+the things which you put in your mouth to steal away your membranes,
+whom can you believe?--the cranberry sauce belonged in a paint store and
+should have been labeled Easter-egg dye, and the green peas were green
+with Paris green.
+
+As for the plum pudding, it was one of those burglar-proof,
+enamel-finished products that prove the British to be indeed a hardy
+race. And, of course, they hadn't brought him his coffee along with his
+dinner, the management having absolutely refused to permit of a thing so
+revolutionary and unprecedented and one so calculated to upset the whole
+organization. And at the last minute the racial instincts of the cook
+had triumphed over his instructions, and he had impartially imbued
+everything with his native brews, gravies, condiments, seasonings,
+scents, preservatives, embalming fluids, liquid extracts and
+perfumeries. So, after weeping unrestrainedly for a time, the man paid
+the check, which was enormous, and tipped everybody freely and went away
+in despair and, I think, committed suicide on an empty stomach. At any
+rate, he came no more. The moral of this fable is, therefore, that it
+can't be done.
+
+But why can't it be done? I ask you that and pause for a reply. Why
+can't it be done? It is conceded, I take it, that in the beginning our
+cookery was essentially of the soil. Of course when our forebears came
+over they brought along with them certain inherent and inherited Old
+World notions touching on the preparation of raw provender in order to
+make it suitable for human consumption; but these doubtless were soon
+fused and amalgamated with the cooking and eating customs of the
+original or copper-colored inhabitants. The difference in environment
+and climate and conditions, together with the amplified wealth of native
+supplies, did the rest. In Merrie England, as all travelers know, there
+are but three staple vegetables--to wit, boiled potatoes, boiled
+turnips, and a second helping of the boiled potatoes. But here, spread
+before the gladdened vision of the newly arrived, and his to pick and
+choose from, was a boundless expanse of new foodstuffs--birds, beasts
+and fishes, fruits, vegetables and berries, roots, herbs and sprouts. He
+furnished the demand and the soil was there competently with the supply.
+
+We owe a lot to our red brother. From him we derived a knowledge of the
+values and attractions of the succulent clam, and he didn't cook a clam
+so that it tasted like O'Somebody's Heels of New Rubber either. From
+the Indian we got the original idea of the shore dinner and the
+barbecue, the planked shad and the hoecake. By following in his
+footsteps we learned about succotash and hominy. He conferred upon us
+the inestimable boon of his maize--hence corn bread, corn fritters,
+fried corn and roasting ears; also his pumpkin and his sweet
+potato--hence the pumpkin pie of the North and its blood brother of the
+South, the sweet-potato pie. From the Indian we got the tomato--let some
+agriculturist correct me if I err--though the oldest inhabitant can
+still remember when we called it a love apple and regarded it as
+poisonous. From him we inherited the crook-neck squash and the okra
+gumbo and the rattlesnake watermelon and the wild goose plum, and many
+another delectable thing.
+
+So, out of all this and from all this our ancestors evolved cults of
+cookery which, though they differed perhaps as between themselves, were
+all purely American and all absolutely unapproachable. France lent a
+strain to New Orleans cooking and Spain did the same for California.
+Scrapple was Pennsylvania's, terrapin was Maryland's, the baked bean
+was Massachusetts', and along with a few other things spoon-bread ranked
+as Kentucky's fairest product. Indiana had dishes of which Texas wotted
+not, nor kilowatted either, this being before the day of electrical
+cooking contrivances. Virginia, mother of presidents and of natural-born
+cooks, could give and take cookery notions from Vermont. Likewise, this
+condition developed the greatest collection of cooks, white and black
+alike, that the world has ever seen. They were inspired cooks, needing
+no notes, no printed score to guide them. They could burn up all the
+cook-books that ever were printed and still cook. They cooked by ear.
+
+And perhaps they still do. If so, may Heaven bless and preserve them!
+Some carping critics may contend that our grandfathers and grandmothers
+lacked the proper knowledge of how to serve a meal in courses. Let 'em.
+Let 'em carp until they're as black in the face as a German carp. For
+real food never yet needed any vain pomp and circumstance to make it
+attractive. It stands on its own merits, not on the scenic effects.
+When you really have something to eat you don't need to worry trying to
+think up the French for napkin. Perhaps there may be some among us here
+on this continent who, on beholding a finger-bowl for the first time,
+glanced down into its pellucid depths and wondered what had become of
+the gold fish. There may have been a few who needed a laprobe drawn up
+well over the chest when eating grapefruit for the first time. Indeed,
+there may have been a few even whose execution in regard to consuming
+soup out of the side of the spoon was a thing calculated to remind you
+of a bass tuba player emptying his instrument at the end of a hard
+street parade.
+
+But I doubt it. These stories were probably the creations of the
+professional humorists in the first place. Those who are given real food
+to eat may generally be depended upon to do the eating without undue
+noise or excitement. The gross person featured in the comic papers, who
+consumes his food with such careless abandon that it is hard to tell
+whether the front of his vest was originally drygoods or groceries,
+either doesn't exist in real life or else never had any food that was
+worth eating, and it didn't make any difference whether he put it on the
+inside of his chest or the outside.
+
+Only a short time ago I saw a whole turkey served for a Thanksgiving
+feast at a large restaurant. It vaunted itself as a regular turkey and
+was extensively charged for as such on the bill. It wasn't though. It
+was an ancient and a shabby ruin--a genuine antique if ever there was
+one, with those high-polished knobs all down the front, like an
+old-fashioned highboy, and Chippendale legs. To make up for its manifold
+imperfections the chef back in the kitchen had crowded it full of
+mysterious laboratory products and then varnished it over with a
+waterproof glaze or shellac, which rendered it durable without making it
+edible. Just to see that turkey was a thing calculated to set the mind
+harking backward to places and times when there had been real turkeys to
+eat.
+
+Back yonder in the old days we were a simple and a husky race, weren't
+we? Boys and girls were often fourteen years old before they knew
+oysters didn't grow in a can. Even grown people knew nothing, except by
+vague hearsay, of cheese so runny that if you didn't care to eat it you
+could drink it. There was one traveled person then living who was
+reputed to have once gone up to the North somewhere and partaken of a
+watermelon that had had a plug cut in it and a whole quart of imported
+real Paris--France--champagne wine poured in the plugged place. This,
+however, was generally regarded as a gross exaggeration of the real
+facts.
+
+But there was a kind of a turkey that they used to serve in those parts
+on high state occasions. It was a turkey that in his younger days ranged
+wild in the woods and ate the mast. At the frosted coming of the fall
+they penned him up and fed him grain to put an edge of fat on his lean;
+and then fate descended upon him and he died the ordained death of his
+kind. But, oh! the glorious resurrection when he reached the table! You
+sat with weapons poised and ready--a knife in the right hand, a fork in
+the left and a spoon handy--and looked upon him and watered at the mouth
+until you had riparian rights.
+
+His breast had the vast brown fullness that you see in pictures of old
+Flemish friars. His legs were like rounded columns and unadorned,
+moreover, with those superfluous paper frills; and his tail was half as
+big as your hand and it protruded grandly, like the rudder of a
+treasure-ship, and had flanges of sizzled richness on it. Here was no
+pindling fowl that had taken the veil and lived the cloistered life;
+here was no wiredrawn and trained-down cross-country turkey, but a lusty
+giant of a bird that would have been a cassowary, probably, or an emu,
+if he had lived, his bosom a white mountain of lusciousness, his
+interior a Golconda and not a Golgotha. At the touch of the steel his
+skin crinkled delicately and fell away; his tissues flaked off in tender
+strips; and from him arose a bouquet of smells more varied and more
+delectable than anything ever turned out by the justly celebrated
+Islands of Spice. It was a sin to cut him up and a crime to leave him
+be.
+
+He had not been stuffed by a taxidermist or a curio collector, but by
+the master hand of one of those natural-born home cooks--stuffed with
+corn bread dressing that had oysters or chestnuts or pecans stirred into
+it until it was a veritable mine of goodness, and this stuffing had
+caught up and retained all the delectable drippings and essences of his
+being, and his flesh had the savor of the things upon which he had
+lived--the sweet acorns and beechnuts of the woods, the buttery goobers
+of the plowed furrows, the shattered corn of the horse yard.
+
+Nor was he a turkey to be eaten by the mere slice. At least, nobody ever
+did eat him that way--you ate him by rods, poles and perches, by
+townships and by sections--ate him from his neck to his hocks and back
+again, from his throat latch to his crupper, from center to
+circumference, and from pit to dome, finding something better all the
+time; and when his frame was mainly denuded and loomed upon the platter
+like a scaffolding, you dug into his cadaver and found there small
+hidden joys and titbits. You ate until the pressure of your waistband
+stopped your watch and your vest flew open like an engine-house door and
+your stomach was pushing you over on your back and sitting upon you, and
+then you half closed your eyes and dreamed of cold-sliced turkey for
+supper, turkey hash for breakfast the next morning and turkey soup made
+of the bones of his carcass later on. For each state of that turkey
+would be greater than the last.
+
+There still must be such turkeys as this one somewhere. Somewhere in
+this broad and favored land, untainted by notions of foreign cookery and
+unvisited by New York and Philadelphia people who insist on calling the
+waiter _garçon_, when his name is Gabe or Roscoe, there must be spots
+where a turkey is a turkey and not a cold-storage corpse. And this being
+the case, why don't those places advertise, so that by the hundreds and
+the thousands men who live in hotels might come from all over in the
+fall of the year and just naturally eat themselves to death?
+
+Perchance also the sucking pig of the good old days still prevails in
+certain sheltered vales and glades. He, too, used to have his vogue at
+holiday times. Because the gods did love him he died young--died young
+and tender and unspoiled by the world--and then everybody else did love
+him too. For he was barbered twice over and shampooed to a gracious
+pinkiness by a skilled hand, and then, being basted, he was roasted
+whole with a smile on his lips and an apple in his mouth, and sometimes
+a bow of red ribbon on his tail, and his juices from within ran down his
+smooth flanks and burnished him to perfection. His interior was crammed
+with stuff and things and truck and articles of that general nature--I'm
+no cooking expert to go into further particulars, but whatever the
+stuffing was, it was appropriate and timely and suitable, I know that,
+and there was onion in it and savory herbs, and it was exactly what a
+sucking pig needed to bring out all that was good and noble in him.
+
+You began operations by taking a man's-size slice out of his midriff,
+bringing with it a couple of pinky little rib bones, and then you ate
+your way through him and along him in either direction or both
+directions until you came out into the open and fell back satiated and
+filled with the sheer joy of living, and greased to the eyebrows. I
+should like to ask at this time if there is any section where this brand
+of sucking pig remains reasonably common and readily available? In these
+days of light housekeeping and kitchenettes and gas stoves and electric
+cookers, is there any oven big enough to contain him? Does he still
+linger on or is he now known in his true perfection only on the magazine
+covers and in the Christmas stories?
+
+[Illustration: "THOSE WHO IN THE GOODNESS OF THEIR HEARTS MAY UNDERTAKE
+A SEARCH FOR THE SUCKING PIG"]
+
+As a further guide to those who in the goodness of their hearts may
+undertake a search for him in his remaining haunts and refuges, it
+should be stated that he was no German wild boar, or English pork pie on
+the hoof, and that he was never cooked French style, or doctored up with
+anchovies, caviar, _marrons glacés_, pickled capers out of a
+bottle--where many of the best capers of the pickled variety come
+from--imported truffles, Mexican tamales or Hawaiian poi. He was--and
+is, if he still exists--just a plain little North American baby-shoat
+cooked whole. And don't forget the red apple in his mouth. None genuine
+without this trademark.
+
+But, shucks! what's the use of talking that way? Patriotism is not dead
+and a democratic form of government still endures, and surely real
+sucking pigs are still being cooked and served whole somewhere this very
+day. And in that same neighborhood, if it lies to the eastward, there
+are cooks who know the art of planking a shad in season--not the
+arrangement of the effete East, consisting of a greased skin wrapped
+round a fine-tooth comb and reposing on a charred clapboard--but a real
+shad; and if it lies to the southward one will surely find in the same
+vicinity a possum of a prevalent dark brown tint, with sweet potatoes
+baked under him and a certain inimitable, indescribable dark rich gravy
+surrounding him, and on the side corn pones--without any sugar in them.
+I think probably the reason why the possum doesn't flourish in the North
+is that they insist on tacking an O on to his name, simply because some
+misguided writer of dictionaries ordained it so. A possum is not Irish,
+nor is he Scotch. His name is not Opossum, neither is it MacPossum. He
+belongs to an old Southern family and his name is just possum.
+
+Once I saw ostensible 'possum at a French restaurant in New York. It was
+advertised as _Opossum, Southern style_, and it was chopped up fine and
+cooked in a sort of casserole effect, with green peas and carrots and
+various other things mixed in along with it. The quivering sensations
+which were felt throughout the South on this occasion, and which at the
+time were mistaken for earthquake tremors, were really caused by so many
+Southern cooks turning over petulantly in their graves.
+
+Still going on the assumption that the turkey and the sucking pig and
+their kindred spirits are yet to be found among us or among some of us,
+anyhow, it is only logical to assume that the food is not served in
+courses at the ratio of a little of everything and not enough of
+anything, but that it is brought on and spread before the company all
+together and at once--the turkey or the pig or the ham or the chickens;
+the mashed potatoes overflowing their receptacle like drifted snow; the
+celery; the scalloped oysters in a dish like a crock; the jelly layer
+cake, the fruit cake and Prince of Wales cake; and in addition,
+scattered about hither and yon, all the different kinds of
+preserves--pusserves, to use the proper title--including sweet peach
+pickles dimpled with cloves and melting away in their own sweetness, and
+watermelon-rind pickles cut into cubes just big enough to make one
+bite--that is to say in cubes about three inches square--and the various
+kinds of jellies--crab-apple, currant, grape and quince--quivering in an
+ecstacy as though at their very goodness, and casting upon the white
+cloth where the light catches them all the reflected, dancing tints of
+beryl and amethyst, ruby and garnet--crown-jewels in the diadem of real
+food.
+
+People who eat dinners like this must, by the very nature of things,
+cling also to the ancient North American custom of starting the day with
+an amount of regular food called collectively a breakfast. This, of
+course, does not mean what the dweller in the city by the seaboard calls
+a breakfast, he knowing no better, poor wretch--a swallow of tea, a bite
+of a cold baker's roll, a plate of gruel mayhap, or pap, and a sticky
+spoonful of the national marmalade of Perfidious Albumen, as the poet
+has called it, followed by a slap at the lower part of the face with a
+napkin and a series of V-shaped hiccoughs ensuing all the morning. No,
+indeed.
+
+In speaking thus of breakfast, I mean a real breakfast. If it's in New
+England there'll be doughnuts and pies on the table, and not those
+sickly convict labor pies of the city either, with the prison pallor yet
+upon them, but brown, crusty, full-chested pies. And if it's down South
+there will be hot waffles and fresh New Orleans molasses; and if it's in
+any section of our country, north or south, east or west, such comfits
+and kickshaws as genuine country smoked sausage, put up in bags and
+spiced like Araby the Blest, and fresh eggs fried in pairs--never less
+than in pairs--with their lovely orbed yolks turned heavenward like
+the topaz eyes of beauteous prayerful blondes; and slices of home-cured
+ham with the taste of the hickory smoke and also of the original hog
+delicately blended in them, and marbled with fat and lean, like the
+edges of law books; and cornbeef hash, and flaky hot biscuits; and an
+assortment of those same pickles and preserves already mentioned; the
+whole being calculated to make a hungry man open his mouth until his
+face resembles the general-delivery window at the post-office--and sail
+right in.
+
+[Illustration: "WHERE DO YOU FIND THE PERCENTAGE OF DYSPEPTICS RUNNING
+HIGHEST?"]
+
+The cry has been raised that American cooking is responsible for
+American dyspepsia, and that as a race we are given to pouring pepsin
+pellets down ourselves because of the food our ancestors poured down
+themselves. This is a base calumny. Old John J. Calumny himself never
+coined a baser one. You have only to look about you to know the truth of
+the situation, which is, that the person with the least digestion is the
+one who always does the most for it, and that those who eat the most
+have the least trouble. Where do you find the percentage of dyspeptics
+running highest, in the country or the city? Where do you find the
+stout woman who is banting as she pants and panting as she bants? Again,
+the city. Where do you encounter the unhappy male creature who has been
+told that the only cure for his dyspepsia is to be a Rebecca at the Well
+and drink a gallon of water before each meal and then go without the
+meal, thus compelling him to double in both roles and first be Rebecca
+and then be the Well? Where do you see so many of those miserable ones
+who have the feeling, after eating, that rude hands are tearing the
+tapestries of the walls of their respective dining rooms?
+
+Not in the country, where, happily, food is perhaps yet food. In the
+city, that's where--in the cities, where they have learned to cook food
+and to serve it and to eat it after a fashion different from the
+fashions their grandsires followed.
+
+That's a noble slogan which has lately been promulgated--See America
+First. But while we're doing so wouldn't it be a fine idea to try to see
+some American cooking?
+
+
+
+
+_MUSIC_
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+If you, the reader, are anything like me, the writer, it happens to you
+about every once in so long that some well-meaning but semi-witted
+friend rigs a dead-fall for you, and traps you and carries you off, a
+helpless captive, for an evening among the real music-lovers.
+
+Catching you, so to speak, with your defense leveled and your
+breastworks unmanned, he speaks to you substantially as follows: "Old
+man, we're going to have a few people up to the house tonight--just a
+little informal affair, you understand, with a song or two and some
+music--and the missus and I would appreciate it mightily if you'd put on
+your Young Prince Charmings and drop in on us along toward eight. How
+about it--can we count on you to be among those prominently present?"
+
+Forewarned is forearmed, and you know all about this person already. You
+know him to be one of the elect in the most exclusive musical coterie of
+your fair city, wherever your fair city may be. You know him to be on
+terms of the utmost intimacy with the works of all the great composers.
+Bill Opus and Jeremiah Fugue have no secrets from him--none
+whatever--and in conversation he creates the impression that old Issy
+Sonata was his first cousin. He can tell you offhand which one of the
+Shuberts--Lee or Jake--wrote that Serenade. He speaks of Mozart and
+Beethoven in such a way a stranger would probably get the idea that Mote
+and Bate used to work for his folks. He can go to a musical show, and
+while the performance is going on he can tell everybody in his section
+just which composer each song number was stolen from, humming the
+original air aloud to show the points of resemblance. He can do this, I
+say, and, what is more, he does do it. At the table d'hote place, when
+the Neapolitan troubadours come out in their little green jackets and
+their wide red sashes he is right there at the middle table, poised and
+waiting; and when they put their heads together and lean in toward the
+center and sing their national air, Come Into the Garlic, Maud, it is he
+who beats time for them with his handy lead-pencil, only pausing
+occasionally to point out errors in technic and execution on the part of
+the performers. He is that kind of a pest, and you know it.
+
+What you should do under these circumstances, after he has invited you
+to come up to his house, would be to look him straight in the eye and
+say to him: "Well, old chap, that's awfully kind of you to include me in
+your little musical party, and just to show you how much I appreciate it
+and how I feel about it here's something for you." And then hit him
+right where his hair parts with a cut-glass paperweight or a bronze
+clock or a fire-ax or something, after which you should leap madly upon
+his prostrate form and dance on his cozy corner with both feet and cave
+in his inglenook for him. That is what you should do, but, being a
+vacillating person--I am still assuming, you see, that you are
+constituted as I am--you weakly surrender and accept the invitation and
+promise to be there promptly on time, and he goes away to snare more
+victims in order to have enough to make a mess.
+
+And so it befalls at the appointed time that you deck your form in your
+after-six-P. M. clothes and go up. On the way you get full and fuller of
+dark forebodings at every step; and your worst expectations are realized
+as soon as you enter and are relieved of your hat by a colored person in
+white gloves, and behold spread before you a great horde of those ladies
+and gentlemen whose rapt expressions and general air of eager expectancy
+stamp them as true devotees of whatever is most classical in the realm
+of music. You realize that in such a company as this you are no better
+than a rank outsider, and that it behooves you to attract as little
+attention as possible. There is nobody else here who will be interested
+in discussing with you whether the Giants or the Cubs will finish first
+next season; nobody except you who cares a whoop how Indiana will go for
+president--in fact, most of them probably haven't heard that Indiana
+was thinking of going. Their souls are soaring among the stars in a
+rarefied atmosphere of culture, and even if you could you wouldn't dare
+venture up that far with yours, for fear of being seized by an
+uncontrollable impulse to leap off and end all, the same as some persons
+are affected when on the roof of a tall building. So you back into the
+nearest corner and try to look like a part of the furniture--and wait in
+dumb misery.
+
+Usually you don't have to wait very long. These people are beggars for
+punishment and like to start early. It is customary to lead off the
+program with a selection on the piano by a distinguished lady graduate
+of somebody-with-an-Italian-name's school of piano expression. Under no
+circumstances is it expected that this lady will play anything that you
+can understand or that I could understand. It would be contrary to the
+ethics of her calling and deeply repugnant to her artistic temperament
+to play a tune that would sound well on a phonograph record. This would
+never do. She comes forward, stripped for battle, and bows and peels
+off her gloves and fiddles with the piano-stool until she gets it
+adjusted to suit her, and then she sits down, prepared to render an
+immortal work composed by one of the old masters who was intoxicated at
+the time.
+
+She starts gently. She throws her head far back and closes her eyes
+dreamily, and hits the keys a soft, dainty little lick--tippy-tap! Then
+leaving a call with the night clerk for eight o'clock in the morning,
+she seems to drift off into a peaceful slumber, but awakens on the
+moment and hurrying all the way up to the other end of Main Street she
+slams the bass keys a couple of hard blows--bumetty-bum! And so it goes
+for quite a long spell after that: Tippy-tap!--off to the country for a
+week-end party, Friday to Monday; bumetty-bum!--six months elapse
+between the third and fourth acts; tippetty-tip!--two years later; dear
+me, how the old place has changed! Biffetty-biff! Gracious, how time
+flies, for here it is summer again and the flowers are all in bloom! You
+sink farther and farther into your chair and debate with yourself
+whether you ought to run like a coward or stay and die like a hero. One
+of your legs goes to sleep and the rest of you envies the leg. You can
+feel your whiskers growing, and you begin to itch in two hundred
+separate places, but can't scratch.
+
+The strangest thing about it is that those round you appear to be
+enjoying it. Incredible though it seems, they are apparently finding
+pleasure in this. You can tell that they are enjoying themselves because
+they begin to act as real music-lovers always act under such
+circumstances--some put their heads on one side and wall up their eyes
+in a kind of dying-calf attitude and listen so hard you can hear them
+listening, and some bend over toward their nearest neighbors and murmur
+their rapture. It is all right for them to murmur, but if you so much as
+scrooge your feet, or utter a low, despairing moan or anything, they all
+turn and glare at you reproachfully and go "Sh!" like a collection of
+steam-heating fixtures. Depend on them to keep you in your place!
+
+[Illustration: "SHE TRIES TO TEAR ALL ITS FRONT TEETH OUT WITH HER BARE
+HANDS"]
+
+All of a sudden the lady operator comes out of her trance. She comes out
+of it with a violent start, as though she had just been bee-stung. She
+now cuts loose, regardless of the piano's intrinsic value and its
+associations to its owners. She skitters her flying fingers up and down
+the instrument from one end to the other, producing a sound like
+hailstones falling on a tin roof. She grabs the helpless thing by its
+upper lip and tries to tear all its front teeth out with her bare hands.
+She fails in this, and then she goes mad from disappointment and in a
+frenzy resorts to her fists.
+
+As nearly as you are able to gather, a terrific fire has broken out in
+one of the most congested tenement districts. You can hear the engines
+coming and the hook-and-ladder trucks clattering over the cobbles.
+Ambulances come, too, clanging their gongs, and one of them runs over a
+dog; and a wall falls, burying several victims in the ruin. At this
+juncture persons begin jumping out of the top-floor windows, holding
+cooking stoves in their arms, and a team runs away and plunges through a
+plate-glass window into a tinware and crockery store. People are all
+running round and shrieking, and the dog that was run over is still
+yelping--he wasn't killed outright evidently, but only crippled--and
+several tons of dynamite explode in a basement.
+
+As the crashing reverberations die away the lady arises, wan but game,
+and bows low in response to the applause and backs away, leaving the
+wreck of the piano jammed back on its haunches and trembling like a leaf
+in every limb.
+
+All to yourself, off in your little corner, you are thinking that surely
+this has been suffering and disaster enough for one evening and
+everybody will be willing to go away and seek a place of quiet. But no.
+In its demand for fresh horrors this crowd is as insatiate as the
+ancient Romans used to be when Nero was giving one of those benefits at
+the Colosseum for the fire sufferers of his home city. There now
+advances to the platform a somber person of a bass aspect, he having a
+double-yolk face and a three-ply chin and a chest like two or three
+chests.
+
+[Illustration: "RO-HOCKED IN THE CRA-HADLE OF THE DA-HEEP I LA-HAY ME
+DOWN IN PE-HEACE TO SA-LEEP!"]
+
+You know in advance what the big-mouthed black bass is going to
+sing--there is only one regular song for a bass singer to sing. From
+time to time insidious efforts have been made to work in songs for
+basses dealing with the love affairs of Bedouins and the joys of life
+down in a coal mine; but after all, to a bass singer who really values
+his gift of song and wishes to make the most of it, there is but one
+suitable selection, beginning as follows:
+
+ _Ro-hocked in the cra-hadle of the da-heep,
+ I la-hay me down in pe-heace to sa-leep!
+ Collum and pa-heaceful be my sa-leep
+ Ro-hocked in the cra-hadle of the da-heep!_
+
+[Illustration: "SHEM UNDOUBTEDLY SANG IT WHEN THE ANIMALS WERE HUNGRY"]
+
+That is the orthodox offering for a bass. The basses of the world have
+always used it, I believe, and generally to advantage. From what I have
+been able to ascertain I judge that it was first written for use on the
+Ark. Shem sang it probably. If there is anything in this doctrine of
+heredity Ham specialized in banjo solos and soft-shoe dancing, and
+Japhet, I take it, was the tenor--he certainly had a tenor-sounding kind
+of a name. So it must have been Shem, and undoubtedly he sang it when
+the animals were hungry, so as to drown out the sounds of their
+roaring.
+
+So this, his descendant--this chip off the old cheese, as it
+were--stands up on the platform facing you, with his chest well extended
+to show his red suspender straps peeping coyly out from the arm openings
+of his vest, and he inserts one hand into his bosom, and over and over
+again he tells you that he now contemplates laying himself down in peace
+to sleep--which is more than anybody else on the block will be able to
+do; and he rocks you in the cradle of the deep until you are as seasick
+as a cow. You could stand that, maybe, if only he wouldn't make faces at
+you while he sings. Some day I am going to take the time off to make
+scientific research and ascertain why all bass singers make faces when
+they are singing. Surely there's some psychological reason for this, and
+if there isn't it should be stopped by legislative enactment.
+
+When Sing-Bad the Sailor has quit rocking the boat and gone ashore, a
+female singer generally obliges and comes off the nest after a merry
+lay, cackling her triumph. Then there is something more of a difficult
+and painful nature on the piano; and nearly always, too, there is a
+large lady wearing a low-vamp gown on a high-arch form, who in
+flute-like notes renders one of those French ballads that's full of
+la-las and is supposed to be devilish and naughty because nobody can
+understand it. For the finish, some person addicted to elocution usually
+recites a poem to piano accompaniment. The poem Robert of Sicily is much
+used for these purposes, and whenever I hear it Robert invariably has my
+deepest sympathy and so has Sicily. Toward midnight a cold collation is
+served, and you recapture your hat and escape forth into the starry
+night, swearing to yourself that never again will you permit yourself to
+be lured into an orgy of the true believers.
+
+But the next time an invitation comes along you will fall again. Anyhow
+that's what I always do, meanwhile raging inwardly and cursing myself
+for a weak and spineless creature, who doesn't know when he's well off.
+Yet I would not be regarded as one who is insensible to the charms of
+music. In its place I like music, if it's the kind of music I like.
+These times, when so much of our music is punched out for us by
+machinery like buttonholes and the air vents in Swiss cheese, and then
+is put up in cans for the trade like Boston beans and baking-powder,
+nothing gives me more pleasure than to drop a nickel in the slot and
+hear an inspiring selection by the author of Alexander's Ragtime Band.
+
+I am also partial to band music. When John Philip Sousa comes to town
+you can find me down in the very front row. I appreciate John Philip
+Sousa when he faces me and shows me that breast full of medals extending
+from the whiskerline to the beltline, and I appreciate him still more
+when he turns round and gives me a look at that back of his. Since
+Colonel W. F. Cody practically retired and Miss Mary Garden went away to
+Europe, I know of no public back which for inherent grace and poetry of
+spinal motion can quite compare with Mr. Sousa's.
+
+I am in my element then. I do not care so very much for Home, Sweet
+Home, as rendered with so many variations that it's almost impossible
+to recognize the old place any more; but when they switch to a march, a
+regular Sousa march full of um-pahs, then I begin to spread myself. A
+little tingle of anticipatory joy runs through me as Mr. Sousa advances
+to the footlights and first waves his baton at the great big German who
+plays the little shiny thing that looks like a hypodermic and sounds
+like stepping on the cat, and then turns the other way and waves it at
+the little bit of a German who plays the big thing that looks like a
+ventilator off an ocean liner and sounds like feeding-time at the zoo.
+And then he makes the invitation general and calls up the brasses and
+the drums and the woods and the woodwinds, and also the thunders and the
+lightnings and the cyclones and the earthquakes.
+
+[Illustration: "AND I ENJOY IT MORE THAN WORDS CAN TELL!"]
+
+And three or four of the trombonists pull the slides away out and let go
+full steam right in my face, with a blast that blows my hair out by the
+roots, and all hands join in and make so much noise that you can't hear
+the music. And I enjoy it more than words can tell!
+
+On the other hand, grand opera does not appeal to me. I can enthuse over
+the robin's song in the spring, and the sound of the summer wind
+rippling through the ripened wheat is not without its attractions for
+me; but when I hear people going into convulsions of joy over Signor
+Massacre's immortal opera of Medulla Oblongata I feel that I am out of
+my element and I start back-pedaling. Lucy D. Lammermore may have been a
+lovely person, but to hear a lot of foreigners singing about her for
+three hours on a stretch does not appeal to me. I have a better use for
+my little two dollars. For that amount I can go to a good minstrel show
+and sit in a box.
+
+You may recall when Strauss' Elektra was creating such a furor in this
+country a couple of years ago. All the people you met were talking about
+it whether they knew anything about it or not, as generally they didn't.
+I caught the disease myself; I went to hear it sung.
+
+I only lasted a little while--I confess it unabashedly--if there is such
+a word as unabashedly--and if there isn't then I confess it
+unashamedly. As well as a mere layman could gather from the opening
+proceedings, this opera of Elektra was what the life story of the Bender
+family of Kansas would be if set to music by Fire-Chief Croker. In the
+quieter moments of the action, when nobody was being put out of the way,
+half of the chorus assembled on one side of the stage and imitated the
+last ravings of John McCullough, and the other half went over on the
+other side of the stage and clubbed in and imitated Wallace, the
+Untamable Lion, while the orchestra, to show its impartiality, imitated
+something else--Old Home Week in a boiler factory, I think. It moved me
+strangely--strangely and also rapidly.
+
+Taking advantage of one of these periods of comparative calm I arose and
+softly stole away. I put a dummy in my place to deceive the turnkeys and
+I found a door providentially unlocked and I escaped out into the night.
+Three or four thousand automobiles were charging up and down Broadway,
+and there was a fire going on a couple of blocks up the street, and I
+think a suffragette procession was passing, too; but after what I'd
+just been through the quiet was very soothing to my eardrums. I don't
+know when I've enjoyed anything more than the last part of Elektra, that
+I didn't hear.
+
+Yet my reader should not argue from this admission that I am deaf to the
+charms of the human voice when raised in song. Unnaturalized aliens of a
+beefy aspect vocalizing in a strange tongue while an orchestra of two
+hundreds pieces performs--that, I admit, is not for me. But just let a
+pretty girl in a white dress with a flower in her hair come out on a
+stage, and let her have nice clear eyes and a big wholesome-looking
+mouth, and let her open that mouth and show a double row of white teeth
+that'd remind you of the first roasting ear of the season--just let her
+be all that and do all that, and then let her look right at me and sing
+The Last Rose of Summer or Annie Laurie or Believe Me, If All Those
+Endearing Young Charms--and I am hers to command, world without end,
+forever and ever, amen! My eyes cloud up for a rainy spell, and in my
+throat there comes a lump so big I feel like a coach-whip snake that has
+inadvertently swallowed a china darning-egg. And when she is through I
+am the person sitting in the second row down front who applauds until
+the flooring gives way and the plastering is jarred loose on the next
+floor. She can sing for me by the hour and I'll sit there by the hour
+and listen to her, and forget that there ever was such a person in the
+whole world as the late Vogner! That's the kind of a music-lover I am,
+and I suspect, if the truth were known, there are a whole lot more just
+like me.
+
+If I may be excused for getting sort of personal and reminiscent at this
+point I should like to make brief mention here of the finest music I
+ever heard. As it happened this was instrumental music. I had come to
+New York with a view to revolutionizing metropolitan journalism, and
+journalism had shown a reluctance amounting to positive diffidence about
+coming forward and being revolutionized. Pending the time when it should
+see fit to do so, I was stopping at a boarding house on West
+Fifty-Seventh Street. It has been my observation that practically
+everybody who comes to New York stops for a while in a boarding house on
+West Fifty-Seventh Street.
+
+West Fifty-Seventh Street was where I was established, in a hall bedroom
+on the top floor--a hall bedroom so form-fitting and cozy that when I
+went to bed I always opened the transom to prevent a feeling of
+closeness across the chest. If I had as many as three callers in my room
+of an evening and one of them got up to go first, the others had to sit
+quietly while he was picking out his own legs. But up to the time I
+speak of I hadn't had any callers. I hadn't been there very long and I
+hadn't met any of the other boarders socially, except at the table. I
+had only what you might call a feeding acquaintance with them.
+
+Christmas Eve came round. I was a thousand miles from home and felt a
+million. I shouldn't be surprised if I was a little bit homesick. Anyhow
+it was Christmas Eve, and it was snowing outside according to the
+orthodox Christmas Eve formula, and upward of five million other people
+in New York were getting ready for Christmas without my company,
+co-operation or assistance. You'd be surprised to know how lonesome you
+can feel in the midst of five million people--until you try it on a
+Christmas Eve.
+
+After dinner I went up to my room and sat down with my back against the
+door and my feet on the window-ledge, and I rested one elbow in the
+washpitcher and put one knee on the mantel and tried to read the
+newspapers. The first thing I struck was a Christmas poem, a sentimental
+Christmas poem, full of allusions to the family circle, and the old
+homestead, and the stockings hanging by the fireplace, and all that sort
+of thing.
+
+That was enough. I put on my hat and overcoat and went down into the
+street. The snow was coming down in long, slanting lines and the
+sidewalks were all white, and where the lamplight shone on them they
+looked like the frosting on birthday cakes. People laden with bundles
+were diving in and out of all the shops. Every other shop window had a
+holly wreath hung in it, and when the doors were opened those spicy
+Christmassy smells of green hemlock and pine came gushing out in my
+face.
+
+So far as I could tell, everybody in New York--except me--was buying
+something for his or her or some other body's Christmas. It was a
+tolerably lonesome sensation. I walked two blocks, loitering sometimes
+in front of a store. Nobody spoke to me except a policeman. He told me
+to keep moving. Finally I went into a little family liquor store.
+Strangely enough, considering the season, there was nobody there except
+the proprietor. He was reading a German newspaper behind the bar. I
+conferred with him concerning the advisability of an egg-nog. He had
+never heard of such a thing as an egg-nog. I mentioned two old friends
+of mine, named Tom and Jerry, respectively, and he didn't know them
+either. So I compromised on a hot lemon toddy. The lemon was one that
+had grown up with him in the liquor business, I think, and it wasn't
+what you would call a spectacular success as a hot toddy; but it was
+warming, anyhow, and that helped. I expanded a trifle. I asked him
+whether he wouldn't take something on me.
+
+He took a small glass of beer! He was a foreigner and he probably knew
+no better, so I suppose I shouldn't have judged him too harshly. But it
+was Christmas Eve and snowing outside--and he took a small beer!
+
+I paid him and came away. I went back to my hall bedroom up on the top
+floor and sat down at the window with my face against the pane, like
+Little Maggie in the poem.
+
+By now the pavements were two inches deep in whiteness and in the circle
+of light around an electric lamp up at the corner of Ninth Avenue I
+could see, dimly, the thick, whirling white flakes chasing one another
+about madly, playing a Christmas game of their own. Across the way
+foot-passengers were still passing in a straggly stream. I heard the
+flat clatter of feet upon the stairs outside, heard someone wish
+somebody else a Merry Christmas, and heard the other person grunt in a
+non-committal sort of way. There was the sound of a hall door slamming
+somewhere on my floor. After that there was silence--the kind of
+silence that you can break off in chunks and taste.
+
+It continued to snow. I reckon I must have sat there an hour or more.
+
+Down in the street four stories below I heard something--music. I raised
+the sash and looked out. An Italian had halted in front of the boarding
+house with a grind organ and he was turning the crank and the thing was
+playing. It wasn't much of a grind organ as grind organs go. I judge it
+must have been the original grind organ that played with Booth and
+Barrett. It had lost a lot of its most important works, and it had the
+asthma and the heaves and one thing and another the matter with it.
+
+But the tune it was playing was My Old Kentucky Home--and Kentucky was
+where I'd come from. The Italian played it through twice, once on his
+own hook and once because I went downstairs and divided my money with
+him.
+
+I regard that as the finest music I ever heard.
+
+As I was saying before, the classical stuff may do for those who like
+it well enough to stand it, but the domestic article suits me. I like
+the kind of beer that this man Bach turned out in the spring of the
+year, but I don't seem to be able to care much for his music. And so far
+as Chopin is concerned, I hope you'll all do your Christmas Chopin
+early.
+
+
+
+
+_ART_
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+In art as in music I am one who is very easily satisfied. All I ask of a
+picture is that it shall look like something, and all I expect of music
+is that it shall sound like something.
+
+In this attitude I feel confident that I am one of a group of about
+seventy million people in this country, more or less, but only a few of
+us, a very heroic few of us, have the nerve to come right out and take a
+firm position and publicly express our true sentiments on these
+important subjects. Some are under the dominion of strong-minded
+wives. Some hesitate to reveal their true artistic leanings for fear of
+being called low-browed vulgarians. Some are plastic posers and so
+pretend to be something they are not to win the approval of the
+ultra-intellectuals. There are only a handful of us who are ready and
+willing to go on record as saying where we stand.
+
+[Illustration: "WE LOOKED IN VAIN FOR THE KIND OF PICTURES THAT MOTHER
+USED TO MAKE AND FATHER USED TO BUY"]
+
+It is because of this cowardice on the part of the great silent majority
+that every year sees us backed farther and farther into a corner. We
+walk through miles and miles of galleries, or else we are led through
+them by our wives and our friends, and we look in vain for the kind of
+pictures that mother used to make and father used to buy. What do we
+find? Once in a while we behold a picture of something that we can
+recognize without a chart, and it looms before our gladdened vision like
+a rock-and-rye in a weary land. But that is not apt to happen often--not
+in a 1912-model gallery. In such an establishment one is likely to meet
+only Old Masters and Young Messers. If it's an Old Master we probably
+behold a Flemish saint or a German saint or an Italian saint--depending
+on whether the artist was Flemish or German or Italian--depicted as
+being shot full of arrows and enjoying same to the uttermost. If it is a
+Young Messer the canvas probably presents to us a view of a poached egg
+apparently bursting into a Welsh rarebit. At least that is what it
+looks like to us--a golden buck, forty cents at any good restaurant--in
+the act of undergoing spontaneous combustion. But we are informed that
+this is an impressionistic interpretation of a sunset at sea, and we are
+expected to stand before it and carry on regardless.
+
+But I for one must positively decline to carry on. This sort of thing
+does not appeal to me. I don't want to have to consult the official
+catalogue in order to ascertain for sure whether this year's prize
+picture is a quick lunch or an Italian gloaming. I'm very peculiar that
+way. I like to be able to tell what a picture aims to represent just by
+looking at it. I presume this is the result of my early training. I date
+back to the Rutherford B. Hayes School of Interior Decorating. In a
+considerable degree I am still wedded to my early ideals. I distinctly
+recall the time when upon the walls of every wealthy home of America
+there hung, among other things, two staple oil paintings--a still-life
+for the dining room, showing a dead fish on a plate, and a pastoral for
+the parlor, showing a collection of cows drinking out of a purling
+brook. A dead fish with a glazed eye and a cold clammy fin was not a
+thing you would care to have around the house for any considerable
+period of time, except in a picture, and the same was true of cows.
+People who could not abide the idea of a cow in the kitchen gladly
+welcomed one into the parlor when painted in connection with the above
+purling brook and several shade trees.
+
+Those who could not afford oil paintings went in for steel engravings
+and chromos--good reliable brands, such as the steel engraving of Henry
+Clay's Farewell to the American Senate and the Teaching Baby to Waltz
+art chromo. War pictures were also very popular back in that period. If
+it were a Northern household you could be pretty sure of seeing a work
+entitled Gettysburg, showing three Union soldiers, two plain and one
+colored, in the act of repulsing Pickett's charge. If it were a Southern
+household there would be one that had been sold on subscription by a
+strictly non-partisan publishing house in Charleston, South Carolina,
+and guaranteed to be historically correct in all particulars,
+representing Robert E. Lee chasing U. S. Grant up a palmetto tree, while
+in the background were a large number of deceased Northern invaders
+neatly racked up like cordwood.
+
+Such things as these were a part of the art education of our early
+youth. Along with them we learned to value the family photograph album,
+which fastened with a latch like a henhouse door, and had a nap on it
+like a furred tongue, and contained, among other treasures, the
+photograph of our Uncle Hiram wearing his annual collar.
+
+And there were also enlarged crayon portraits in heavy gold frames with
+red plush insertions, the agent having thrown in the portraits in
+consideration of our taking the frames; and souvenirs of the
+Philadelphia Centennial; and wooden scoop shovels heavily gilded by hand
+with moss roses painted on the scoop part and blue ribbon bows to hang
+them up by; and on the what-not in the corner you were reasonably
+certain of finding a conch shell with the Lord's Prayer engraved on it;
+and if you held the shell up to your young ear you could hear the
+murmur of the sea just as plain as anything. Of course you could secure
+the same murmuring effect by holding an old-fashioned tin cuspidor up to
+your ear, too, but in this case the poetic effect would have been
+lacking. And, besides, there were other uses for the cuspidor.
+
+Almost the only Old Masters with whose works we were well acquainted
+were John L. Sullivan and Nonpareil Jack Dempsey. But Rosa Bonheur's
+Horse Fair suited us clear down to the ground--her horses looked like
+real horses, even if they were the kind that haul brewery wagons; and in
+the matter of sculpture Powers' Greek Slave seemed to fill the bill to
+the satisfaction of all. Anthony Comstock and the Boston Purity League
+had not taken charge of our art as yet, and nobody seemed to find any
+fault because the Greek lady looked as though she'd slipped on the top
+step and come down just as she was, wearing nothing to speak of except a
+pair of handcuffs. Nobody did speak of it either--not in a mixed company
+anyhow.
+
+Furniture was preferred when it was new--the newer the better. We went
+in for golden oak and for bird's eye maple, depending on whether we
+liked our furniture to look tanned or freckled; and when the careful
+housekeeper threw open her parlor for a social occasion, such as a
+funeral, the furniture gave off a splendid new sticky smell, similar to
+a paint and varnish store on a hot day. The vogue for antiques hadn't
+got started yet; that was to descend upon us later on. We rather liked
+the dining-room table to have all its legs still, and the bureau to have
+drawers that could be opened without blasting. In short, that was the
+period of our national life when only the very poor had to put up with
+decrepit second-hand furniture, as opposed to these times when only the
+very rich can afford to own it. If you have any doubts regarding this
+last assertion of mine I should advise you to drop into any reliable
+antique shop and inquire the price of a mahogany sideboard suffering
+from tetter and other skin diseases, or a black walnut cupboard with
+doors that froze up solid about the time of the last Seminole War. I
+suppose these things go in cycles--in fact, I'm sure they do. Some day
+the bare sight of the kind of furniture which most people favor nowadays
+will cause a person of artistic sensibilities to burst into tears, just
+as the memory of the things that everybody liked twenty-five or thirty
+years ago gives such poignant pain to so many at present.
+
+Even up to the time of the World's Fair quite a lot of people still
+favored the simpler and more understandable forms of art expression. We
+went to Chicago and religiously visited the Art Building, and in our
+nice new creaky shoes we walked past miles and miles of brought-on
+paintings by foreign artists, whose names we could not pronounce, in
+order to find some sentimental domestic subject. After we had found it
+we would stand in front of it for hours on a stretch with the tears
+rolling down our cheeks. Some of us wept because the spirit of the
+picture moved us, and some because our poor tired feet hurt us and the
+picture gave us a good excuse for crying in public, and so we did
+so--freely and openly. Grant if you will that our taste was crude and
+raw and provincial, yet we knew what we liked and the bulk of us weren't
+ashamed to say so, either. What we liked was a picture or a statue which
+remotely at least resembled the thing that it was presumed to represent.
+Likewise we preferred pictures of things that we ourselves knew about
+and could understand.
+
+Maybe it was because of that early training that a good many of us have
+never yet been able to work up much enthusiasm over the Old Masters.
+Mind you, we have no quarrel with those who become incoherent and
+babbling with joy in the presence of an Old Master, but--doggone
+'em!--they insist on quarreling with us because we think differently. We
+fail to see anything ravishingly beautiful in a faded, blistered,
+cracked, crumbling painting of an early Christian martyr on a grill,
+happily frying on one side like an egg--a picture that looks as though
+the Old Master painted it some morning before breakfast, when he wasn't
+feeling the best in the world, and then wore it as a liver pad for forty
+or fifty years. We cannot understand why they love the Old Masters so,
+and they cannot understand why we prefer the picture of Custer's Last
+Stand that the harvesting company used to give away to advertise its
+mowing machines.
+
+Once you get away from the early settlers among the Old Masters the
+situation becomes different. Rembrandt and Hals painted some portraits
+that appeal deeply to the imagination of nearly all of my set. The
+portraits which they painted not only looked like regular persons, but
+so far as my limited powers of observation go, they were among the few
+painters of Dutch subjects who didn't always paint a windmill or two
+into the background. It probably took great resolution and
+self-restraint, but they did it and I respect them for it.
+
+I may say that I am also drawn to the kind of ladies that Gainsborough
+and Sir Joshua Reynolds painted. They certainly turned out some mighty
+good-looking ladies in those days, and they were tasty dressers, too,
+and I enjoy looking at their pictures. Coming down the line a little
+farther, I want to state that there is also something very
+fascinating in those soft-boiled pink ladies, sixteen hands high, with
+sorrel manes, that Bouguereau did; and the soldier pictures of
+Meissonier and Detaille appeal to me mightily. Their soldiers are always
+such nice neat soldiers, and they never have their uniforms mussed up or
+their accouterments disarranged, even when they are being shot up or cut
+down or something. Corot and Rousseau did some landscapes that seem to
+approximate the real thing, and there are several others whose names
+escape me; but, speaking for myself alone, I wish to say that this is
+about as far as I can go at this writing. I must admit that I have never
+been held spellbound and enthralled for hours on a stretch by a
+contemplation of the inscrutable smile on Mona Lisa. To me she seems
+merely a lady smiling about something--simply that and nothing more.
+
+[Illustration: "THE INSCRUTABLE SMILE OF A SALESLADY WOULD MAKE MONA
+LISA SEEM A MERE AMATEUR"]
+
+Any woman can smile inscrutably; that is one of the specialties of the
+sex. The inscrutable smile of a saleslady in an exclusive Fifth Avenue
+shop when a customer asks to look at something a little cheaper would
+make Mona Lisa seem a mere amateur as an inscrutable smiler. Quite a
+number of us remained perfectly calm when some gentlemen stole Miss Lisa
+out of the Louvre, and we expect to remain equally calm if she is never
+restored.
+
+As I said before, our little band is shrinking in numbers day by day.
+The population as a whole are being educated up to higher ideals in art.
+On the wings of symbolism and idealism they are soaring ever higher and
+higher, until a whole lot of them must be getting dizzy in the head by
+now.
+
+First, there was the impressionistic school, which started it; and then
+there was the post-impressionistic school, suffering from the same
+disease but in a more violent form; and here just recently there have
+come along the Cubists and the Futurists.
+
+[Illustration: "A PERSON WHO FOR REASONS BEST KNOWN TO THE POLICE HAS
+NOT BEEN LOCKED UP"]
+
+You know about the Cubists? A Cubist is a person who for reasons best
+known to the police has not been locked up yet, who asserts that all
+things in Nature, living and inanimate, properly resolve themselves into
+cubes. What is more, he goes and paints pictures to prove it--pictures
+of cubic waterfalls pouring down cubic precipices, and cubic ships
+sailing on cubic oceans, and cubic cows being milked by cubic milkmaids.
+He makes portraits, too--portraits of persons with cubic hands and cubic
+feet, who are smoking cubed cigarettes and have solid cubiform heads. On
+that last proposition we are with them unanimously; we will concede that
+there are people in this world with cube-shaped heads, they being the
+people who profess to enjoy this style of picture.
+
+A Futurist begins right where a Cubist leaves off, and gets worse. The
+Futurists have already had exhibitions in Paris and London and last
+Spring they invaded New York. They call themselves art anarchists. Their
+doctrine is a simple and a cheerful one--they merely preach that
+whatever is normal is wrong. They not only preach it, they practice it.
+
+Here are some of their teachings:
+
+"We teach the plunge into shadowy death under the white set eyes of the
+ideal!
+
+"The mind must launch the flaming body, like a fire-ship, against the
+enemy, the eternal enemy that, if he do not exist, must be invented!
+
+"The victory is ours--I am sure of it, for the maniacs are already
+hurling their hearts to heaven like bombs! Attention! Fire! Our blood?
+Yes! All our blood in torrents to redye the sickly auroras of the earth!
+Yes, and we shall also be able to warm thee within our smoking arms, O
+wretched, decrepit, chilly Sun, shivering upon the summit of the
+Gorisankor!"
+
+[Illustration: "COLLISION BETWEEN TWO HEAVENLY BODIES OR PREMATURE
+EXPLOSION OF A CUSTARD PIE"]
+
+There you have the whole thing, you see, simply, dispassionately and
+quietly presented. Most of us have seen newspaper reproductions of the
+best examples of the Futurists' school. As well as a body can judge from
+these reproductions, a Futurist's method of execution must be
+comparatively simple. After looking at his picture, you would say that
+he first put on a woolly overcoat and a pair of overshoes; that he then
+poured a mixture of hearth paint, tomato catsup, liquid bluing, burnt
+cork, English mustard, Easter dyes and the yolks of a dozen eggs over
+himself, seasoning to taste with red peppers. Then he spread a large
+tarpaulin on the floor and lay down on it and had an epileptic fit, the
+result being a picture which he labeled Revolt, or Collision Between Two
+Heavenly Bodies, or Premature Explosion of a Custard Pie, or something
+else equally appropriate. The Futurists ought to make quite a number of
+converts in this country, especially among those advanced lovers of art
+who are beginning to realize that the old impressionistic school lacked
+emphasis and individuality in its work. But I expect to stand firm, and
+when everybody else nearly is a Futurist and is tearing down Sargent's
+pictures and Abbey's and Whistler's to make room for immortal Young
+Messers, I and a few others will still be holding out resolutely to the
+end.
+
+At such times as these I fain would send my thoughts back longingly to
+an artist who flourished in the town where I was born and brought up. He
+was practically the only artist we had, but he was versatile in the
+extreme. He was several kinds of a painter rolled into one--house, sign,
+portrait, landscape, marine and wagon. In his lighter hours, when
+building operations were dull, he specialized in oil paintings of life
+and motion--mainly pictures of horse races and steamboat races. When he
+painted a horse race, the horses were always shown running neck and neck
+with their mouths wide open and their eyes gleaming; and their nostrils
+were widely extended and painted a deep crimson, and their legs were
+neatly arranged just so, and not scrambled together in any old fashion,
+as seems to be the case with the legs of the horses that are being
+painted nowadays. And when he painted a steamboat race it would always
+be the Natchez and the Robert E. Lee coming down the river abreast in
+the middle of the night, with the darkies dancing on the lower decks and
+heavy black smoke rolling out of the smokestacks in four distinct
+columns--one column to each smokestack--and showers of sparks belching
+up into the vault of night.
+
+There was action for you--action and attention to detail. With this
+man's paintings you could tell a horse from a steamboat at a glance. He
+was nothing of an impressionist; he never put smokestacks on the
+horse nor legs on the steamboat. And his work gave general satisfaction
+throughout that community.
+
+Frederic Remington wasn't any impressionist either; and so far as I can
+learn he didn't have a cubiform idea in stock. When Remington painted an
+Indian on a pony it was a regular Indian and a regular pony--not one of
+those cotton-batting things with fat legs that an impressionist slaps on
+to a canvas and labels a horse. You could smell the lathered sweat on
+the pony's hide and feel the dust of the dry prairie tickling your
+nostrils. You could see the slide of the horse's withers and watch the
+play of the naked Indian's arm muscles. I should like to enroll as a
+charter member of a league of Americans who believe that Frederic
+Remington and Howard Pyle were greater painters than any Old Master that
+ever turned out blistered saints and fly-blown cherubim. And if every
+one who secretly thinks the same way about it would only join in--of
+course they wouldn't, but if they would--we'd be strong enough to elect
+a president on a platform calling for a prohibitive tariff against the
+foreign-pauper-labor Old Masters of Europe.
+
+While we were about it our league could probably do something in the
+interests of sculpture. It is apparent to any fair-minded person that
+sculpture has been very much overdone in this country. It seems to us
+there should be a law against perpetuating any of our great men in
+marble or bronze or stone or amalgam fillings until after he has been
+dead a couple of hundred years, and by that time a fresh crop ought to
+be coming on and probably we shall have lost the desire to create such
+statues.
+
+A great man who cannot live in the affectionate and grateful memories of
+his fellow countrymen isn't liable to live if you put up statues of him;
+that, however, is not the main point.
+
+The artistic aspect is the thing to consider. So few of our great men
+have been really pretty to look at. Andrew Jackson made a considerable
+dent in the history of his period, but when it comes to beauty, there
+isn't a floor-walker in a department store anywhere that hasn't got him
+backed clear off the pedestal. In addition to that, the sort of clothes
+we've been wearing for the last century or so do not show up especially
+well in marble. Putting classical draperies on our departed solons has
+been tried, but carving a statesman with only a towel draped over him,
+like a Roman senator coming out of a Turkish bath, is a departure from
+the real facts and must be embarrassing to his shade. The greatest
+celebrities were ever the most modest of men. I'll bet the spirit of the
+Father of His Country blushes every time he flits over that statue of
+himself alongside the Capitol at Washington--the one showing him sitting
+in a bath cabinet with nothing on but a sheet.
+
+Sticking to the actual conditions doesn't seem to help much either.
+Future generations will come and stand in front of the statue of a
+leader of thought who flourished back about 1840, say, and wonder how
+anybody ever had feet like those and lived. Horace Greeley's chin
+whiskers no doubt looked all right on Horace when he was alive, but when
+done in bronze they invariably present a droopy not to say dropsical
+appearance; and the kind of bone-handled umbrella that Daniel Webster
+habitually carried has never yet been successfully worked out in marble.
+When you contemplate the average statue of Lincoln--and most of them, as
+you may have noticed, are very average--you do not see there the majesty
+and the grandeur and the abiding sorrow of the man and the tragedy of
+his life. At least I know I do not see those things. I see a pair of
+massive square-toed boots, such as I'm sure Father Abe never wore--he
+couldn't have worn 'em and walked a step--and I see a beegum hat
+weighing a ton and a half, and I say to myself: "This is not the Abraham
+Lincoln who freed the slaves and penned the Gettysburg address. No, sir!
+A man with those legs would never have been president--he'd have been in
+a dime museum exhibiting his legs for ten cents a look--and they'd have
+been worth the money too."
+
+Nobody seems to have noticed it, but we undoubtedly had the cube form of
+expression in our native sculpture long before it came out in painting.
+
+To get a better idea of what I'm trying to drive at, just take a trip up
+through Central Park the next time you are in New York and pause a while
+before those bronzes of Sir Walter Scott and Robert Burns which stand on
+the Mall. They are called bronzes, but to me they always looked more
+like castings. I don't care if you are as Scotch as a haggis, I know in
+advance what your feelings will be. If you decide that these two men
+ever looked in life like those two bronzes you are going to lose some of
+your love and veneration for them right there on the spot; or else you
+are going to be filled with an intense hate for the persons who have
+libeled them thus, after they were dead and gone and not in position to
+protect themselves legally. But you don't necessarily have to come to
+New York--you've probably got some decoration in your home town that is
+equally sad. There've been a lot of good stone-masons spoiled in this
+country to make enough sculptors to go round.
+
+But while we are thinking these things about art and not daring to
+express them, I take note that new schools may come and new schools may
+go, but there is one class of pictures that always gets the money and
+continues to give general satisfaction among the masses.
+
+I refer to the moving pictures.
+
+
+
+
+_SPORT_
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+As I understand it, sport is hard work for which you do not get paid.
+If, for hire, you should consent to go forth and spend eight hours a day
+slamming a large and heavy hammer at a mark, that would be manual toil,
+and you would belong to the union and carry a card, and have political
+speeches made to you by persons out for the labor vote. But if you do
+this without pay, and keep it up for more than eight hours on a stretch,
+it then becomes sport of a very high order--and if you continue it for a
+considerable period of time, at more or less expense to yourself, you
+are eventually given a neat German-silver badge, costing about two
+dollars, which you treasure devotedly ever after. A man who walks
+twenty-five miles a day for a month without getting anything for
+it--except two lines on the sporting page--is a devotee of
+pedestrianism, and thereby acquires great merit among his fellow
+athletes. A man who walks twenty-five miles a day for a month and gets
+paid for it is a letter-carrier.
+
+Also sport is largely a point of view. A skinny youth who flits forth
+from a gymnasium attired in the scenario of a union suit, with a design
+of a winged Welsh rarebit on his chest, and runs many miles at top speed
+through the crowded marts of trade, is highly spoken of and has medals
+hung on him. If he flits forth from a hospital somewhat similarly
+attired, and does the same thing, the case is diagnosed as temporary
+insanity--and we drape a strait-jacket on him and send for his folks.
+Such is the narrow margin that divides Marathon and mania; and it helps
+to prove that sport is mainly a state of mind.
+
+I am speaking now with reference to our own country. Different nations
+have different conceptions of this subject. Golf and eating haggis in a
+state of original sin are the national pastimes of the Scotch, a hardy
+race. At submarine boating and military ballooning the French
+acknowledge no superiors. Their balloons go up and never come down, and
+their submarines go down and never come up. The Irish are born club
+swingers, as witness any police force; and the Swiss, as is well known,
+have no equals at Alpine mountain climbing, chasing cuckoos into wooden
+clocks, and running hotels. I've always believed that, if the truth were
+only known, the reason why the Swiss Family Robinson did so well in that
+desert clime was because they opened a hotel and took in the natives to
+board.
+
+Among certain branches of the Teutonic races the favorite indoor sport
+is suicide by gas, and the favorite outdoor sport is going to a
+_schutzenfest_ and singing _Ach du lieber Augustin!_ coming home. To
+Italy the rest of us are indebted for unparalleled skill in eating
+spaghetti with one tool--they use the putting iron all the way round.
+Our cousins, the English, excel at archery, tea-drinking and putting the
+fifty-six pound protest. Thus we lead the world at contesting Olympian
+games and winning them, and they lead the world at losing them first and
+then contesting them. In catch-as-catch-can wrestling between
+Suffragettes and policemen the English also hold the present
+championship at all weights. And so it goes.
+
+We in America have a range of sports and pastimes that is as wide as our
+continent, which is fairly wide as continents go. In using the editorial
+we here I do not mean, however, to include myself. At sport I am no more
+than an inoffensive onlooker. One time or another I have tried many of
+our national diversions and have found that those which are not
+strenuous enough are entirely too strenuous for a person of fairly
+settled habits. It is much easier to look on and less fatiguing to the
+system. I find that the best results along sporting lines are attained
+by taking a comfortable seat up in the grandstand, lighting a good cigar
+and leaning back and letting somebody else do the heavy work. Reading
+about it is also a very good way.
+
+Take fishing, now, for example. What can be more delightful on a bright,
+pleasant afternoon, when the wind is in exactly the right quarter, than
+to take up a standard work on fishing, written by some gifted traveling
+passenger agent, and with him to snatch the elusive finny tribe out of
+their native element, while the reel whirs deliriously and the hooked
+trophy leaps high in air, struggling against the feathered barb of the
+deceptive lure, and a waiter is handy if you press the button? I have
+forgotten the rest of the description; but any railroad line making a
+specialty of summer-resort business will be glad to send you the full
+details by mail, prepaid. In literature, fishing is indeed an
+exhilarating sport; but, so far as my experience goes, it does not pan
+out when you carry the idea farther.
+
+To begin with, there is the matter of tackle. Some people think
+collecting orchids is expensive--and I guess it is, the way the orchid
+market is at present; and some say matching up pearls costs money. They
+should try buying fishing tackle once. If J. Pierpont Morgan had gone in
+for fishing tackle instead of works of art he would have died in the
+hands of a receiver. Any self-respecting dealer in sporting goods would
+be ashamed to look his dependent family in the face afterward if he
+suffered you to escape from his lair equipped for even the simplest
+fishing expedition unless he had sawed off about ninety dollars' worth
+of fishing knickknacks on you.
+
+[Illustration: "EVERYTHING YOU CATCH IS SECOND-HAND"]
+
+Let us say, then, that you have mortgaged the old home and have acquired
+enough fishing tackle to last you for a whole day. Then you go forth,
+always conceding that you are an amateur fisherman who fishes for fun as
+distinguished from a professional fisherman who fishes for fish--and you
+get into a rowboat that you undertake to pull yourself and that starts
+out by weighing half a ton and gets half a ton heavier at each stroke.
+You pull and pull until your spine begins to unravel at both ends, and
+your palms get so full of water blisters you feel as though you were
+carrying a bunch of hothouse grapes in each hand. And after going about
+nine miles you unwittingly anchor off the mouth of a popular garbage
+dump and everything you catch is second-hand. The sun beats down upon
+you with unabated fervor and the back of your neck colors up like a
+meerschaum pipe; and after about ten minutes you begin to yearn with
+a great, passionate yearning for a stiff collar and some dry clothes,
+and other delights of civilization.
+
+If, on the other hand, I am being guided by an experienced angler it has
+been my observation that he invariably takes me to a spot where the fish
+bit greedily yesterday and will bite avariciously tomorrow, but, owing
+to a series of unavoidable circumstances, are doing very little in the
+biting line today. Or if by any chance they should be biting they at
+once contract an intense aversion for my goods. Others may catch them as
+freely as the measles, but toward me fish are never what you would call
+infectious. I'm one of those immunes. Or else the person in charge
+forgets to bring any bait along. This frequently happens when I am in
+the party.
+
+One day last summer I went fishing in the Savannah River, and we
+traveled miles and miles to reach the fishing-ground. We found the water
+there alive with fish, and anchored where they were thickest; and then
+the person who was guiding the expedition discovered that he had left
+the bait on the wharf. He is the most absent-minded man south of the
+Ohio anyhow. In the old days before Georgia went dry he had to give up
+carrying a crook-handled umbrella. He would invariably leave it hanging
+on the rail. So I should have kept the bait in mind myself--but I
+didn't, being engaged at the time in sun-burning a deep, radiant
+magenta. However it was not a fast color--long before night it was
+peeling off in long, painful strips.
+
+Suppose you do catch something! You cast and cast, sometimes burying
+your hook in submerged débris and sometimes in tender portions of your
+own person. After a while you land a fish; but a fish in a boat is
+rarely so attractive as he was in a book. One of the drawbacks about a
+fish is that he becomes dead so soon--and so thoroughly.
+
+I have been speaking thus far of river fishing. I would not undertake to
+describe at length the joys of brook fishing, because I tried it only
+once. Once was indeed sufficient, not to say ample. On this occasion I
+was chaperoned by an old, experienced brook fisherman. I was astonished
+when I got my first view of the stream. It seemed to me no more than a
+trickle of moisture over a bed of boulders--a gentle perspiration
+coursing down the face of Nature, as it were. Any time they tapped a
+patient for dropsy up that creek there would be a destructive freshet, I
+judged; but, as it developed, this brook was deceptive--it was full of
+deep, cold holes. I found all these holes.
+
+I didn't miss a single one. While I was finding them and then crawling
+out of them, my companion was catching fish. He caught quite a number,
+some of them being nearly three inches long. They were speckled and had
+rudimentary gills and suggestions of fins, and he said they were brook
+trout--and I presume they were; but if they had been larger they would
+have been sardines. You cannot deceive me regarding the varieties of
+fish that come in cans. I would say that the best way to land a brook
+trout is to go to a restaurant and order one from a waiter in whom you
+have confidence. In that way you will avoid those deep holes.
+
+Nor have I ever shone as a huntsman. If the shadowy roeshad is not for
+me neither is her cousin, the buxom roebuck. Nor do I think I will ever
+go in for mountain-climbing as a steady thing, having tried it. Poets
+are fond of dwelling upon the beauties of the everlasting hills,
+swimming in purple and gold--but no poet ever climbed one. If he ever
+did he would quit boosting and start knocking. I was induced to scale a
+large mountain in the northern part of New York. It belonged to the
+state; and, like so many other things the state undertakes to run, it
+was neglected. No effort whatever had been made to make it cozy and
+comfortable for the citizen. It was one of those mountains that from a
+distance look smooth and gentle of ascent, but turn out to be rugged and
+seamy and full of rocks with sharp corners on them at about the height
+of the average human knee or shin. The lady for whom that mountain in
+Mexico, Chapultepec, is named--oh, yes, Miss Anna Peck--would have had a
+perfectly lovely time scaling that mountain; but I didn't.
+
+[Illustration: "HE COULD BEAT ME CLIMBING, BUT AT PANTING I HAD HIM
+LICKED TO A WHISPER"]
+
+After we had climbed upward at an acute angle for several hundred
+miles--my companion said yards, but I know better; it was miles--I threw
+myself prone upon the softer surfaces of a large granite slab, feeling
+that I could go no farther. I also wished to have plenty of room in
+which to pant. He could beat me climbing, but at panting I had him
+licked to a whisper. He was a person without sympathy. In his bosom the
+milk of human kindness had clabbered and turned to a brick-cheese. He
+stood there and laughed. There are times to laugh, but this was not one
+of the times. Anyway I always did despise those people who are built
+like sounding boards and have fine acoustic qualities inside their
+heads--and not much of anything else; but never did I despise them more
+than at that moment. He sent his grating, raucous, discordant, ill-timed
+guffaws reverberating off among the precipitous crags, and then he
+turned from me and went forging ahead.
+
+He was almost out of sight when I remembered about there being bears on
+that mountain; so I rose and undertook to forge ahead too. I was not a
+great success at it however. I know now that if ever I should turn to a
+life of crime forgery would not be my forte. I do not forge readily.
+Eventually, though, I reached the summit, he being already there. We had
+come up for the view, but I seemed to have lost my interest in views;
+so, while he looked at the view, I reclined in a prostrate position and
+resumed panting. That was three years ago and I am still somewhat behind
+with my pants. I am going to take a week off sometime and pant steadily
+and try to catch up; but the outing taught me one thing--I learned a
+simple way of descending a steep mountain. If one is of a circular style
+of construction it is very simple. One rolls.
+
+Camping is highly spoken of, and I have tried camping a number of times.
+When I go camping it rains. It begins to rain when I start and it keeps
+on raining until I come back. It never fails. I have often thought that
+drought-sufferers in various parts of the country who seek to attract
+rain in dry spells make a mistake. They try the old-fashioned Methodist
+way of praying for it, or the new scientific way of shooting dynamite
+bombs off and trying to blast it out of the heavens; when, as a matter
+of fact, the best plan would be to send for me and get me to go camping
+in the arid district. It would then rain heavily and without cessation.
+
+It is a fine thing to talk about the perfumed and restful bed of balsam
+boughs, and the crackle of the campfire at dusk, and the dip in the
+mirrored bosom of the pellucid lake at dawn--old Emerson Hough does all
+that to perfection; but these things assume a different aspect when it
+rains. There are three conditions in life when any latent selfishness in
+a man's being, however far down it may be buried ordinarily, will come
+surging to the surface--when he is courting a girl against strong
+opposition; when he is playing a gentleman's game of poker, purely for
+sociability; and when he is camping out and it rains. Before a man makes
+up his mind that he will take a girl to be his wife he should induce her
+to go in surf bathing and see how she looks when she comes out; and
+before he makes up his mind that he will take a man to be his best
+friend he should go camping with him in the rainy season--the answer in
+both cases being that then he won't do either one.
+
+I remember going camping once with a man who before that had appeared to
+be all that one could ask in the way of a chosen comrade; but after we
+had spent four days cooped up together in an eight-by-ten tent that was
+built with sloping shoulders, like an Englishman's overcoat, listening
+to the sough of the wind through the wet pine trees without, and dodging
+the streams of water that percolated through the dripping roof within, I
+could think of more than seven thousand things about that man that I
+cordially disliked.
+
+His whiskers gradually became the most distasteful of all to me. Either
+he hadn't brought a razor along or it was too wet for shaving--or
+something; and his whiskers grew out, and they were bristly and red in
+color, which was something I had not suspected before. As I sat there
+with the little rivulets running down the back of my neck and the rust
+forming on my amalgam fillings and mold on my shoes and mushrooms
+sprouting under my hatband, it seemed to me that he had taken an unfair
+advantage of me by having red whiskers. Viewed through the drizzle they
+appeared to be the reddest, the most inflammatory, the most
+poisonous-looking whiskers I ever saw! They were too red to be natural.
+
+I decided finally that he must have been scared by a Jersey bull so that
+his whiskers turned red in a single night--and I was getting ready to
+twit him about it; but he beat me to it. It seemed that all this time he
+had been feeling more and more deeply offended at the way in which my
+ears were adjusted to my head. He couldn't make up his mind, he said,
+which way he would hate me more--with my ears or without them; but he
+was willing to take a butcher knife and experiment. He also said that,
+as an expert bookkeeper, he wouldn't know whether to enter my ears as
+outstanding losses or amounts brought forward. Going into those woods we
+were just the same as Damon and Pythias; but coming out his bite would
+have been instant death, and I felt toward him exactly as the tarantula
+does toward the centipede. We were the original Blue-Gum Twins.
+
+Coming now to aquatic sports as distinguished from pastimes ashore, I
+feel that I am better qualified to speak authoritatively, having had
+more experience in that direction. Let us start with canoeing. Canoeing
+is a sport fraught with constant surprises. A canoeing trip is rarely
+the same thing twice in succession; and particularly is this true in
+streams where the temperature of the water is subject to change. It is
+comparatively easy to paddle a canoe if you only remember to scoop
+toward you. You merely reverse the process by which truly refined people
+imbibe soup. Even if you never master the art of paddling you may still
+get along fairly well if you know how to swim. On the whole I would say
+that one is liable to enjoy a longer career as a canoeist where one
+swims but can't paddle, than where one paddles but can't swim.
+
+Approaching the subject of motor-boating as compared with sailboating,
+we find the situation becoming complicated and growing technical. In
+sailing, as is generally known, you depend upon the wind; and there are
+only two things the wind does--one is to blow and the other is not to
+blow. But when you begin to figure up the things that a motor boat will
+do when you don't want it to, and won't do when you do want it to, you
+are face to face with one of the most complicated mathematical jobs
+known to the realm of mechanical science.
+
+A motor boat undoubtedly has a larger and fancier repertoire of cute
+tricks and unexpected ways than anything in the nature of machinery. I
+know this to be true, because I have a relative who suffers from
+motor-boatitis in an advanced form. He has owned many different brands
+of motor boats--that is one reason, I think, why he is not wealthier; in
+fact he has had about all the kinds there are except a kind that will
+start when you wish it to and stop when you expect it to. His motor
+boats do nearly everything--backfire, and fail to spark, and clog up,
+and blow up, and break down, and smash up and drift ashore, and drift
+out from shore, and have the asthma and the heaves and impediments of
+speech; but he has never yet owned one that could be depended upon to
+do the two things I have just mentioned.
+
+After trying various models and discarding them, he now has one of the
+most complete motor boats made. It has what is known as a hunting cabin,
+it being so called, I think, because the moment anybody gets into it he
+has to get out again while the owner crawls in and takes up all the
+seats and hunts for something. It is the theory that one could live
+afloat in this hunting cabin--and so one could if one were only a
+dachshund and inured to exposure. It is plenty wide enough for the
+average dachshund and plenty high enough, too, but not more than about
+two-thirds long enough. If one were a dachshund one would either have to
+coil up or else remain partly outdoors. Also, on board is a galley,
+which would be a success in every way if you could find a style of cook
+who could get used to sitting on one hole of the stove while he cooked
+on the other. One of those talented parlor magicians who does light
+housekeeping in a borrowed high hat by breaking raw eggs into it and
+then taking out omelet souffles, might fill the bill--only I never have
+chanced to see a parlor magician yet who could crowd himself and his
+feet into that galley at the same time.
+
+The principal feature of this motor boat, however, is the engine, which
+is a very complicated and beautiful thing, with coils and plugs and
+brakes strewed about over it here and there, and a big flywheel
+superimposed right in front. It is the theory that, by opening several
+cocks and closing several others, and adjusting about fifteen or twenty
+little duflickers just so, and then revolving this wheel briskly with a
+crank provided for that purpose, the engine can be started. It is
+supposed to say chug-chug a couple of times impatiently, and then go
+scooting away, chug-chugging like an inspired slide-trombone.
+
+Such is the theory, but such is not the fact. I've seen the owner crank
+her until his backbone comes unjointed, without getting any response
+whatsoever. And then, just when he is about to succumb to hate and
+overexertion, the thing says tut-tut reprovingly--and then gives one
+tired pish and a low mournful tush and coughs about a pint of warm
+gasoline into his face and dies as dead as Jesse James. I've seen her do
+that time and time again; but if she ever does start, the only way to
+stop her is to steer into some solid immovable object, such as the
+Western Hemisphere.
+
+At that, motor-boating for an amateur such as I am has certain
+advantages over sailboating. A motor-boatist--even the most reckless
+kind--knows enough to stay ashore when a West Indian hurricane is
+romping along the coast, playfully chasing its own tail like a young
+puppy; but that kind of a situation is just pie for your seasoned
+sailboatist.
+
+Only last summer I had a very distressing experience in connection with
+a sailboat, which was owned by a friend of mine--or perhaps I should say
+he was a friend of mine until this matter came up. From the clubhouse
+porch I had often admired his boat skimming gracefully over the bay,
+with its sail making a white gore against the blue background; and one
+day he invited me to go out with him for a sail. Before I had time
+for that second thought which is so desirable under such circumstances,
+I found myself committed to the venture.
+
+Right here, though, I wish to state that if anybody ever gets me out in
+a small sailboat again it will be over my dead body.
+
+[Illustration: "SHE WAS NOT MUCH LARGER THAN A SOAPDISH"]
+
+Well, anyway, we cast off, as he called it. I did not like that
+phrase--cast off--it sounded too much as though one were bidding
+farewell to all earthly ties--and almost immediately I was struck by
+other disconcerting facts. The first one was that his boat, which had
+looked roomy and commodious when viewed from shore, appeared to shrink
+up so when you were aboard her. Really, she was not much larger than a
+soapdish and not nearly so reliable. And another thing I noticed was a
+lot of the angriest-looking clouds that anybody ever saw, piling up on
+the horizon. And the waves were slopping up and down, and giving to the
+water that dark, forbidding appearance that is so inspiring in a marine
+painting, but so depressing when you are thrown into personal contact
+with it.
+
+I made a suggestion. As I recall now, I said something about waiting
+until the typhoon was over; but my friend grinned in an annoying,
+superior kind of way and said he doubted whether the wind would blow
+more than half a gale. He was right there--but it was the last half.
+Anyhow he swung her round and she heeled away over in an alarming
+fashion, and we headed right into the center of the vortex. He gave me
+the end of a rope to hold and told me to swing on to it, which I was
+very glad to do, because there are times and places when it gives you a
+slight sense of comfort to have anything at all to hold to, even if it
+is only a rope. On and on we careened madly. I was so occupied with
+harkening to the howl of the mad winds in the rigging and watching the
+mad waves that, when he suddenly called out something which sounded like
+Hard Ah Lee, I paid no attention. If his fancy led him in a moment of
+dire peril like this to be yelling for somebody with a name like a
+Chinese laundryman, it was no concern of mine.
+
+Then he bellowed: "Leggo that sheet!"
+
+Now I knew there was something about a sailboat called a sheet, but I
+naturally assumed it was the sail. I leave it to any disinterested
+person if a sail, being white and more or less square in shape, doesn't
+look more like a sheet than a mere rope does. So, as I wasn't near the
+sail, but was merely holding on to my rope, I started to tell him I
+wasn't touching his blamed old sheet. But the words were never spoken.
+
+The boat tried to shy out from under me and came very nearly succeeding.
+At the same time, she buckjumped and stood right up on one edge, like a
+demented gravy dish. At the same moment, also, a considerable portion of
+the Atlantic Ocean came aboard and lit in my lap, and something struck
+me alongside the head with frightful force; and something else scraped
+me off the place where I was sitting and hurled me headlong.
+
+When I came to, the man who owned the boat was scrambling round,
+stepping on me and my clothes, and grabbing at loose ends, and swearing;
+but as soon as he had a moment to spare from these other duties he
+called me a derned idiot! I was his guest, mind you, and he used that
+language toward me.
+
+"You derned idiot!" he said. "Didn't you see she was about to jibe?"
+
+I told him in a dignified manner that I certainly did not; that had I
+known she was about to jibe I would most certainly have jobe with her;
+that personally I preferred any amount of jibbing, however painful, to
+being drowned first and then beaten to death. I demanded to know why he
+had assaulted me upon the head and what he did it with.
+
+It developed, though, that he had not struck me at all. The boom swung
+round and hit me. This is a heavy section of lumber, and I think it is
+called a boom from the hollow, ringing sound it makes when dashing out
+the brains of amateur sailors. In my judgment these booms are dangerous
+and their presence should not be permitted aboard a sailing craft--or,
+at least, they should be towed a safe distance aft.
+
+But I digress. Referring to the devastating and angry elements that
+encompassed us, the owner of the boat said there was now a nice,
+fresh breeze blowing, and that he hated to miss the fun; but if I
+preferred to he would run back in and hug the shore. Hug it! I was ready
+to kiss it! What I wanted to do was to take that dear shore in both arms
+and press my throbbing cheeks against her mossy breast, and swear that
+nothing should ever again come between me and the solid part of the
+continent of North America.
+
+So, by a sheer miracle escaping death on the way, we returned, and I
+betook myself off of that craft and headed straight for the clubhouse. I
+wish to take advantage of this opportunity, however, to deny the report
+subsequently circulated by certain malicious persons to the effect that
+I was scared. Any passing agitation I may have betrayed was due to my
+relief at finding that the cyclone, despite its fury, had not swept the
+North Atlantic Coast bare. I also wish to deny the story that I was
+pale. I have one of those complexions that come and go. Anybody who
+knows me will tell you that.
+
+However, I have decided to give up sailboating; and, to a person of my
+shape and conservative tendencies, this leaves the field of outdoor
+sport considerably circumscribed. I am too peaceful for baseball and not
+warlike enough for football. I had thought some of taking up tennis, but
+have been deterred by the fact that so many young women excel at tennis.
+I could stand being licked by another man, but the idea of facing one of
+those sinewy young-lady champions whose stalwart face looks out at you
+from the sporting page is repellent to me.
+
+I can understand why so very few of these ultra-athletic college girls
+marry off early. A man instinctively is drawn to the clinging-vine type
+of female. If there is any sturdy oak round the place he wants to be it.
+But what I cannot understand is how these brawny young persons can be
+the granddaughters and the great granddaughters of those fragile
+creatures, with wasp waists and tiny feet, who lived back in the Early
+Victorian period and suffered from megrims and vapors. I'll venture that
+none of this generation ever had a vapor in her life; and as for
+megrims, she wouldn't know one if she met it in the big road. She may be
+muscle-bound and throw a splint sometimes, or get the Charley horse; but
+megrims are not for her--believe me!
+
+Oh, I've seen them often--the adorable yet brawny creatures, leaping six
+feet into the air and smacking a defenseless tennis ball with such vigor
+that it started right off in the general direction of Sioux Falls at the
+rate of upwards of ninety miles an hour, and coming down flat-footed
+without having jostled so much as a hairpin out of place. You may
+worship them, all right enough, but it is safer to do so at long
+distance.
+
+[Illustration: "THINK OF BEING LAID FACE DOWNWARD FIRMLY ACROSS A SINEWY
+KNEE AND BEATEN FORTY-LOVE WITH ONE OF THOSE HARD CATGUT RACKETS!"]
+
+Suppose you were hooked up for life to a lady champion and you happened
+to displease her? She'd spank you! Think of being laid face downward
+firmly across a sinewy knee and beaten forty-love with one of those hard
+catgut rackets! The very suggestion is intolerable to a believer in the
+supremacy of the formerly sterner sex.
+
+So I have decided not to take up tennis; but the doctor says I need
+exercise, and I think I will go in for golf, which is a young man's
+vice and an old man's penance. I have already taken the preliminary
+steps. I have joined a country club; I have also chosen my caddie. He is
+a deaf-and-dumb caddie, who has never been known to laugh at anything.
+
+That is why I chose him.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Cobb's Bill-of-Fare, by Irvin Shrewsbury Cobb
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+
+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">
+ <head>
+ <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" />
+ <title>
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+ </title>
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+<body>
+
+
+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Cobb's Bill-of-Fare, by Irvin Shrewsbury Cobb
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Cobb's Bill-of-Fare
+
+Author: Irvin Shrewsbury Cobb
+
+Illustrator: Peter Newell and James Preston
+
+Release Date: February 13, 2008 [EBook #24595]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COBB'S BILL-OF-FARE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Bryan Ness, Annie McGuire and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 321px;">
+<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="321" height="500" alt="Book Cover" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 360px;">
+<img src="images/frontispiece.jpg" width="360" height="500" alt="Frontispiece" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h1><i>Cobb's Bill-of-Fare</i></h1>
+
+<h3><i>By</i></h3>
+
+<h2><i>Irvin S. Cobb</i></h2>
+
+<h4><i>Author of</i></h4>
+<h4>"<i>The Escape of Mr. Trimm</i>," "<i>Back Home</i>,"</h4>
+<h4>"<i>Cobb's Anatomy</i>," <i>etc.</i></h4>
+
+<h3><i>Illustrated by</i></h3>
+<h3><i>Peter Newell and James Preston</i></h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 100px;">
+<img src="images/tpage.jpg" width="100" height="96" alt="Publisher Symbol" title="" /><br />
+</div>
+
+<h3><i>New York</i></h3>
+<h3><i>George H. Doran Company</i></h3>
+
+<h4><span class="smcap">Copyright</span>, 1911 1912,</h4>
+<h4><span class="smcap">By The Curtis Publishing Company</span></h4>
+
+<h4><span class="smcap">Copyright</span>, 1913,</h4>
+<h4><span class="smcap">By George H. Doran Company</span><br /><br /></h4>
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">To</span></h3>
+<h3><span class="smcap">R.&nbsp;H. Davis</span></h3>
+
+<h3>(<span class="smcap">Not Richard Harding</span>&mdash;</h3>
+<h3><span class="smcap">The Other One</span>)</h3>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="AS_FOLLOWS" id="AS_FOLLOWS"></a><i>AS FOLLOWS</i></h2>
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='right'>I.</td><td align='left'><a href="#VITTLES"><span class="smcap">Vittles</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>II.</td><td align='left'><a href="#MUSIC"><span class="smcap">Music</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>III.</td><td align='left'><a href="#ART"><span class="smcap">Art</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>IV.</td><td align='left'><a href="#SPORT"><span class="smcap">Sport</span></a></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="ILLUSTRATIONS" id="ILLUSTRATIONS"></a><i>ILLUSTRATIONS</i></h2>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#ILLUS2">"I now greatly desire to eat some regular food."</a><br />
+<br />
+<a href="#ILLUS3">"Those who in the goodness of their hearts may undertake a search for the sucking pig."</a><br />
+<br />
+<a href="#ILLUS4">"Where do you find the percentage of dyspeptics running highest?"</a><br />
+<br />
+<a href="#ILLUS6">"She tries to tear all its front teeth out with her bare hands."</a><br />
+<br />
+<a href="#ILLUS7">"Ro-hocked in the cra-hadle of the da-heep, I la-hay me down in pe-heace to sa-leep!"</a><br />
+<br />
+<a href="#ILLUS8">"Shem undoubtedly sang it when the animals were hungry."</a><br />
+<br />
+<a href="#ILLUS9">"And I enjoy it more than words can tell!"</a><br />
+<br />
+<a href="#ILLUS11">"We looked in vain for the kind of pictures that mother used to make and father used to buy."</a><br />
+<br />
+<a href="#ILLUS12">"The inscrutable smile of a saleslady would make Mona Lisa seem a mere amateur."</a><br />
+<br />
+<a href="#ILLUS13">"A person who for reasons best known to the police has not been locked up."</a><br />
+<br />
+<a href="#ILLUS14">"Collision between two heavenly bodies or premature explosion of a custard pie."</a><br />
+<br />
+<a href="#ILLUS16">"Everything you catch is second-hand."</a><br />
+<br />
+<a href="#ILLUS17">"He could beat me climbing, but at panting I had him licked to a whisper."</a><br />
+<br />
+<a href="#ILLUS18">"She was not much larger than a soapdish."</a><br />
+<br />
+<a href="#ILLUS19">"Think of being laid face downward firmly across a sinewy knee and beaten forty-love with one of those hard catgut rackets!"</a><br />
+</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="VITTLES" id="VITTLES"></a><i>VITTLES</i></h2>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span></p><div class="figcenter" style="width: 321px;">
+<img src="images/f_001.jpg" width="321" height="436" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>Upon a certain gladsome occasion a certain man went into a certain
+restaurant in a certain large city, being imbued with the idea that he
+desired a certain kind of food. Expense was with him no object. The
+coming of the holidays had turned his thoughts backward to the care-free
+days of boyhood and he longed for the holidaying provender of his youth
+with a longing that was as wide as a river and as deep as a well.</p>
+
+<p>"Me, I have tried it all," he said to himself. "I have been down the
+line on this eating proposition from alphabet soup to animal crackers. I
+know the whole thing, from the nine-dollar, nine-course banquet, with
+every course bathed freely in the same kind of sauce and tasting exactly
+like all the other courses, to the quick lunch, where the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> only
+difference between clear soup and beef broth is that if you want the
+beef broth the waiter sticks his thumb into the clear soup and brings it
+along.</p>
+
+<p>"I have feasted copiously at grand hotels where they charge you corkage
+on your own hot-water bottle, and I have dallied frugally with the
+forty-cent table d'hote with wine, when the victuals were the product of
+the well-known Sam Brothers&mdash;Flot and Jet&mdash;and the wine tasted like the
+stuff that was left over from graining the woodwork for a mahogany
+finish.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 389px;"><a name="ILLUS2" id="ILLUS2"></a>
+<img src="images/f_002.jpg" width="389" height="500" alt="&quot;I NOW GREATLY DESIRE TO EAT SOME REGULAR FOOD.&quot;" title="" />
+<span class="caption">&quot;I NOW GREATLY DESIRE TO EAT SOME REGULAR FOOD.&quot;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"I now greatly desire to eat some regular food, and if such a thing be
+humanly possible I should also prefer to eat it in silence unbroken
+except by the noises I make myself. I have eaten meals backed up so
+close to the orchestra that the leader and I were practically wearing
+the same pair of suspenders. I have been howled at by a troupe of
+Sicilian brigands armed with their national weapons&mdash;the garlic and the
+guitar. I have been tortured by mechanical pianos and automatic
+melodeons, and I crave quiet. But in any event I want food. I cannot<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span>
+spare the time to travel nine hundred miles to get it, and I must,
+therefore, take a chance here."</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>So, as above stated, he entered this certain restaurant and seated
+himself; and as soon as the Hungarian string band had desisted from
+playing an Italian air orchestrated by a German composer he got the
+attention of an omnibus, who was Greek, and the bus enlisted the
+assistance of a side waiter, he being French, and the side waiter in
+time brought to him the head waiter, regarding whom I violate no
+confidence in stating that he was Swiss. The man I have been quoting
+then drew from his pockets a number of bank notes and piled them up
+slowly, one by one, alongside his plate. Beholding the denominations of
+these bills the head waiter with difficulty restrained himself from
+kissing the hungry man upon the bald spot on his head. The sight of a
+large bill invariably quickens the better nature of a head waiter.</p>
+
+<p>"Now, then," said the enhungered one, "I would have speech with you. I
+desire food&mdash;food suitable for a free-born American<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> stomach on such a
+day as this. No, you needn't wave that menu at me. I can shut my eyes
+and remember the words and music of every menu that ever was printed. I
+don't know what half of it means because I am no court interpreter, but
+I can remember it. I can sing it, and if I had my clarinet here I could
+play it. Heave the menu over the side of the boat and listen to me. What
+I want is just plain food&mdash;food like mother used to make and mother's
+fair-haired boy used to eat. We will start off with turkey&mdash;turkey <i>a
+la</i> America, understand; turkey that is all to the Hail Columbia, Happy
+Land. With it I want some cramberry sauce&mdash;no, not cranberry, I guess I
+know its real name&mdash;some cramberry sauce; and some mashed
+potatoes&mdash;mashed with enthusiasm and nothing else, if you can arrange
+it&mdash;and some scalloped oysters and maybe a few green peas. Likewise I
+want a large cup of coffee right along with these things&mdash;not served
+afterward in a misses' and children's sized cup, but along with the
+dinner."</p>
+
+<p>"Salad?" suggested the head waiter, re<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span>luctantly withdrawing his
+fascinated vision from the pile of bills. "Salad?" he said.</p>
+
+<p>"No salad," said the homesick stranger, "not unless you could chop me up
+some lettuce and powder it with granulated sugar and pour a little
+vinegar over it and bring it in to me with the rest of the grub. Where I
+was raised we always had chewing tobacco for the salad course, anyhow."</p>
+
+<p>The head waiter's whole being recoiled from the bare prospect. He seemed
+on the point of swooning, but looked at the money and came to.</p>
+
+<p>"Dessert?" he added, poising a pencil.</p>
+
+<p>"Well," said the man reflectively, "I don't suppose you could fix me up
+some ambrosia&mdash;that's sliced oranges with grated cocoanut on top. And in
+this establishment I doubt if you know anything about boiled custard,
+with egg kisses bobbing round it and sunken reefs of sponge cake
+underneath. So I guess I'd better compromise on some plum pudding; but
+mind you, not the imported English plum pudding. English plum pudding is
+not a food, it's a missile, and when eaten it is a concealed deadly
+weapon. I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> want an American plum pudding. Mark well my words&mdash;an
+American plum pudding.</p>
+
+<p>"And," he concluded, "if you can bring me these things, just so, without
+any strange African sauces or weird Oriental fixings or trans-Atlantic
+goo stirred into them or poured on to them or breathed upon them, I
+shall be very grateful to you, and in addition I shall probably make you
+independently wealthy for life."</p>
+
+<p>It was quite evident that the head waiter regarded him as a
+lunatic&mdash;perhaps only a lunatic in a mild form and undoubtedly one
+cushioned with ready money&mdash;but nevertheless a lunatic. Yet he indicated
+by a stately bow that he would do the best he could under the
+circumstances, and withdrew to take the matter up with the house
+committee.</p>
+
+<p>"Now this," said the man, "is going to be something like. To be sure the
+table is not set right. As I remember how things used to look at home
+there should be a mustache cup at Uncle Hiram's plate, so he could drink
+his floating island without getting his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> cream-separators mussy, and
+there ought to be a vinegar cruet at one end and a silver cake basket at
+the other and about nine kinds of pickles and jellies scattered round;
+and in the center of the table there should be a winter bouquet&mdash;a nice,
+hard, firm, dark red winter bouquet&mdash;containing, among other things, a
+sheaf of wheat, a dried cockscomb and a couple of oak galls. Yet if the
+real provender is forthcoming I can put up with the absence of the
+proper settings and decorations."</p>
+
+<p>He had ample leisure for these thoughts, because, as you yourself may
+have noticed, in a large restaurant when you order anything that is out
+of the ordinary&mdash;which means anything that is ordinary&mdash;it takes time to
+put the proposition through the proper channels. The waiter lays your
+application before the board of governors, and after the board of
+governors has disposed of things coming under the head of unfinished
+business and good of the order it takes a vote, and if nobody blackballs
+you the treasurer is instructed to draw a warrant and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> the secretary
+engrosses appropriate resolutions, and your order goes to the cook.</p>
+
+<p>But finally this man's food arrived. And he looked at it and sniffed at
+it daintily&mdash;like a reluctant patient going under the ether&mdash;and he
+tasted of it; and then he put his face down in his hands and burst into
+low, poignant moans. For it wasn't the real thing at all. The stuffing
+of the turkey defied chemical analysis; and, moreover, the turkey before
+serving should have been dusted with talcum powder and fitted with
+dress-shields, it being plainly a crowning work of the art
+preservative&mdash;meaning by that the cold-storage packing and pickling
+industry. And if you can believe what Doctor Wiley says&mdash;and if you
+can't believe the man who has dedicated his life to warning you against
+the things which you put in your mouth to steal away your membranes,
+whom can you believe?&mdash;the cranberry sauce belonged in a paint store and
+should have been labeled Easter-egg dye, and the green peas were green
+with Paris green.</p>
+
+<p>As for the plum pudding, it was one of those burglar-proof,
+enamel-finished prod<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span>ucts that prove the British to be indeed a hardy
+race. And, of course, they hadn't brought him his coffee along with his
+dinner, the management having absolutely refused to permit of a thing so
+revolutionary and unprecedented and one so calculated to upset the whole
+organization. And at the last minute the racial instincts of the cook
+had triumphed over his instructions, and he had impartially imbued
+everything with his native brews, gravies, condiments, seasonings,
+scents, preservatives, embalming fluids, liquid extracts and
+perfumeries. So, after weeping unrestrainedly for a time, the man paid
+the check, which was enormous, and tipped everybody freely and went away
+in despair and, I think, committed suicide on an empty stomach. At any
+rate, he came no more. The moral of this fable is, therefore, that it
+can't be done.</p>
+
+<p>But why can't it be done? I ask you that and pause for a reply. Why
+can't it be done? It is conceded, I take it, that in the beginning our
+cookery was essentially of the soil. Of course when our forebears came
+over they brought along with them certain<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> inherent and inherited Old
+World notions touching on the preparation of raw provender in order to
+make it suitable for human consumption; but these doubtless were soon
+fused and amalgamated with the cooking and eating customs of the
+original or copper-colored inhabitants. The difference in environment
+and climate and conditions, together with the amplified wealth of native
+supplies, did the rest. In Merrie England, as all travelers know, there
+are but three staple vegetables&mdash;to wit, boiled potatoes, boiled
+turnips, and a second helping of the boiled potatoes. But here, spread
+before the gladdened vision of the newly arrived, and his to pick and
+choose from, was a boundless expanse of new foodstuffs&mdash;birds, beasts
+and fishes, fruits, vegetables and berries, roots, herbs and sprouts. He
+furnished the demand and the soil was there competently with the supply.</p>
+
+<p>We owe a lot to our red brother. From him we derived a knowledge of the
+values and attractions of the succulent clam, and he didn't cook a clam
+so that it tasted like O'Somebody's Heels of New Rubber either.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> From
+the Indian we got the original idea of the shore dinner and the
+barbecue, the planked shad and the hoecake. By following in his
+footsteps we learned about succotash and hominy. He conferred upon us
+the inestimable boon of his maize&mdash;hence corn bread, corn fritters,
+fried corn and roasting ears; also his pumpkin and his sweet
+potato&mdash;hence the pumpkin pie of the North and its blood brother of the
+South, the sweet-potato pie. From the Indian we got the tomato&mdash;let some
+agriculturist correct me if I err&mdash;though the oldest inhabitant can
+still remember when we called it a love apple and regarded it as
+poisonous. From him we inherited the crook-neck squash and the okra
+gumbo and the rattlesnake watermelon and the wild goose plum, and many
+another delectable thing.</p>
+
+<p>So, out of all this and from all this our ancestors evolved cults of
+cookery which, though they differed perhaps as between themselves, were
+all purely American and all absolutely unapproachable. France lent a
+strain to New Orleans cooking and Spain did the same for California.
+Scrapple was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> Pennsylvania's, terrapin was Maryland's, the baked bean
+was Massachusetts', and along with a few other things spoon-bread ranked
+as Kentucky's fairest product. Indiana had dishes of which Texas wotted
+not, nor kilowatted either, this being before the day of electrical
+cooking contrivances. Virginia, mother of presidents and of natural-born
+cooks, could give and take cookery notions from Vermont. Likewise, this
+condition developed the greatest collection of cooks, white and black
+alike, that the world has ever seen. They were inspired cooks, needing
+no notes, no printed score to guide them. They could burn up all the
+cook-books that ever were printed and still cook. They cooked by ear.</p>
+
+<p>And perhaps they still do. If so, may Heaven bless and preserve them!
+Some carping critics may contend that our grandfathers and grandmothers
+lacked the proper knowledge of how to serve a meal in courses. Let 'em.
+Let 'em carp until they're as black in the face as a German carp. For
+real food never yet needed any vain pomp and circumstance to make it
+attractive. It stands<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> on its own merits, not on the scenic effects.
+When you really have something to eat you don't need to worry trying to
+think up the French for napkin. Perhaps there may be some among us here
+on this continent who, on beholding a finger-bowl for the first time,
+glanced down into its pellucid depths and wondered what had become of
+the gold fish. There may have been a few who needed a laprobe drawn up
+well over the chest when eating grapefruit for the first time. Indeed,
+there may have been a few even whose execution in regard to consuming
+soup out of the side of the spoon was a thing calculated to remind you
+of a bass tuba player emptying his instrument at the end of a hard
+street parade.</p>
+
+<p>But I doubt it. These stories were probably the creations of the
+professional humorists in the first place. Those who are given real food
+to eat may generally be depended upon to do the eating without undue
+noise or excitement. The gross person featured in the comic papers, who
+consumes his food with such careless abandon that it is hard to tell
+whether the front<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> of his vest was originally drygoods or groceries,
+either doesn't exist in real life or else never had any food that was
+worth eating, and it didn't make any difference whether he put it on the
+inside of his chest or the outside.</p>
+
+<p>Only a short time ago I saw a whole turkey served for a Thanksgiving
+feast at a large restaurant. It vaunted itself as a regular turkey and
+was extensively charged for as such on the bill. It wasn't though. It
+was an ancient and a shabby ruin&mdash;a genuine antique if ever there was
+one, with those high-polished knobs all down the front, like an
+old-fashioned highboy, and Chippendale legs. To make up for its manifold
+imperfections the chef back in the kitchen had crowded it full of
+mysterious laboratory products and then varnished it over with a
+waterproof glaze or shellac, which rendered it durable without making it
+edible. Just to see that turkey was a thing calculated to set the mind
+harking backward to places and times when there had been real turkeys to
+eat.</p>
+
+<p>Back yonder in the old days we were a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> simple and a husky race, weren't
+we? Boys and girls were often fourteen years old before they knew
+oysters didn't grow in a can. Even grown people knew nothing, except by
+vague hearsay, of cheese so runny that if you didn't care to eat it you
+could drink it. There was one traveled person then living who was
+reputed to have once gone up to the North somewhere and partaken of a
+watermelon that had had a plug cut in it and a whole quart of imported
+real Paris&mdash;France&mdash;champagne wine poured in the plugged place. This,
+however, was generally regarded as a gross exaggeration of the real
+facts.</p>
+
+<p>But there was a kind of a turkey that they used to serve in those parts
+on high state occasions. It was a turkey that in his younger days ranged
+wild in the woods and ate the mast. At the frosted coming of the fall
+they penned him up and fed him grain to put an edge of fat on his lean;
+and then fate descended upon him and he died the ordained death of his
+kind. But, oh! the glorious resurrection when he reached the table! You
+sat with weapons poised and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> ready&mdash;a knife in the right hand, a fork in
+the left and a spoon handy&mdash;and looked upon him and watered at the mouth
+until you had riparian rights.</p>
+
+<p>His breast had the vast brown fullness that you see in pictures of old
+Flemish friars. His legs were like rounded columns and unadorned,
+moreover, with those superfluous paper frills; and his tail was half as
+big as your hand and it protruded grandly, like the rudder of a
+treasure-ship, and had flanges of sizzled richness on it. Here was no
+pindling fowl that had taken the veil and lived the cloistered life;
+here was no wiredrawn and trained-down cross-country turkey, but a lusty
+giant of a bird that would have been a cassowary, probably, or an emu,
+if he had lived, his bosom a white mountain of lusciousness, his
+interior a Golconda and not a Golgotha. At the touch of the steel his
+skin crinkled delicately and fell away; his tissues flaked off in tender
+strips; and from him arose a bouquet of smells more varied and more
+delectable than anything ever turned out by the justly celebrated
+Islands of Spice. It was a sin<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> to cut him up and a crime to leave him
+be.</p>
+
+<p>He had not been stuffed by a taxidermist or a curio collector, but by
+the master hand of one of those natural-born home cooks&mdash;stuffed with
+corn bread dressing that had oysters or chestnuts or pecans stirred into
+it until it was a veritable mine of goodness, and this stuffing had
+caught up and retained all the delectable drippings and essences of his
+being, and his flesh had the savor of the things upon which he had
+lived&mdash;the sweet acorns and beechnuts of the woods, the buttery goobers
+of the plowed furrows, the shattered corn of the horse yard.</p>
+
+<p>Nor was he a turkey to be eaten by the mere slice. At least, nobody ever
+did eat him that way&mdash;you ate him by rods, poles and perches, by
+townships and by sections&mdash;ate him from his neck to his hocks and back
+again, from his throat latch to his crupper, from center to
+circumference, and from pit to dome, finding something better all the
+time; and when his frame was mainly denuded and loomed upon the platter
+like a scaffolding, you dug into his cadaver and found there small
+hidden joys and titbits.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> You ate until the pressure of your waistband
+stopped your watch and your vest flew open like an engine-house door and
+your stomach was pushing you over on your back and sitting upon you, and
+then you half closed your eyes and dreamed of cold-sliced turkey for
+supper, turkey hash for breakfast the next morning and turkey soup made
+of the bones of his carcass later on. For each state of that turkey
+would be greater than the last.</p>
+
+<p>There still must be such turkeys as this one somewhere. Somewhere in
+this broad and favored land, untainted by notions of foreign cookery and
+unvisited by New York and Philadelphia people who insist on calling the
+waiter <i>gar&ccedil;on</i>, when his name is Gabe or Roscoe, there must be spots
+where a turkey is a turkey and not a cold-storage corpse. And this being
+the case, why don't those places advertise, so that by the hundreds and
+the thousands men who live in hotels might come from all over in the
+fall of the year and just naturally eat themselves to death?</p>
+
+<p>Perchance also the sucking pig of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> good old days still prevails in
+certain sheltered vales and glades. He, too, used to have his vogue at
+holiday times. Because the gods did love him he died young&mdash;died young
+and tender and unspoiled by the world&mdash;and then everybody else did love
+him too. For he was barbered twice over and shampooed to a gracious
+pinkiness by a skilled hand, and then, being basted, he was roasted
+whole with a smile on his lips and an apple in his mouth, and sometimes
+a bow of red ribbon on his tail, and his juices from within ran down his
+smooth flanks and burnished him to perfection. His interior was crammed
+with stuff and things and truck and articles of that general nature&mdash;I'm
+no cooking expert to go into further particulars, but whatever the
+stuffing was, it was appropriate and timely and suitable, I know that,
+and there was onion in it and savory herbs, and it was exactly what a
+sucking pig needed to bring out all that was good and noble in him.</p>
+
+<p>You began operations by taking a man's-size slice out of his midriff,
+bringing with it a couple of pinky little rib bones, and then<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> you ate
+your way through him and along him in either direction or both
+directions until you came out into the open and fell back satiated and
+filled with the sheer joy of living, and greased to the eyebrows. I
+should like to ask at this time if there is any section where this brand
+of sucking pig remains reasonably common and readily available? In these
+days of light housekeeping and kitchenettes and gas stoves and electric
+cookers, is there any oven big enough to contain him? Does he still
+linger on or is he now known in his true perfection only on the magazine
+covers and in the Christmas stories?</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 455px;"><a name="ILLUS3" id="ILLUS3"></a>
+<img src="images/f_003.jpg" width="455" height="500" alt="&quot;THOSE WHO IN THE GOODNESS OF THEIR HEARTS MAY UNDERTAKE
+A SEARCH FOR THE SUCKING PIG&quot;" title="" />
+<span class="caption">&quot;THOSE WHO IN THE GOODNESS OF THEIR HEARTS MAY UNDERTAKE
+A SEARCH FOR THE SUCKING PIG&quot;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>As a further guide to those who in the goodness of their hearts may
+undertake a search for him in his remaining haunts and refuges, it
+should be stated that he was no German wild boar, or English pork pie on
+the hoof, and that he was never cooked French style, or doctored up with
+anchovies, caviar, <i>marrons glac&eacute;s</i>, pickled capers out of a
+bottle&mdash;where many of the best capers of the pickled variety come
+from&mdash;imported truffles, Mexican tamales or Hawaiian poi.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> He was&mdash;and
+is, if he still exists&mdash;just a plain little North American baby-shoat
+cooked whole. And don't forget the red apple in his mouth. None genuine
+without this trademark.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>But, shucks! what's the use of talking that way? Patriotism is not dead
+and a democratic form of government still endures, and surely real
+sucking pigs are still being cooked and served whole somewhere this very
+day. And in that same neighborhood, if it lies to the eastward, there
+are cooks who know the art of planking a shad in season&mdash;not the
+arrangement of the effete East, consisting of a greased skin wrapped
+round a fine-tooth comb and reposing on a charred clapboard&mdash;but a real
+shad; and if it lies to the southward one will surely find in the same
+vicinity a possum of a prevalent dark brown tint, with sweet potatoes
+baked under him and a certain inimitable, indescribable dark rich gravy
+surrounding him, and on the side corn pones&mdash;without any sugar in them.
+I think probably the reason why the possum doesn't flourish in the North
+is that they insist on tacking an O on to his name,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> simply because some
+misguided writer of dictionaries ordained it so. A possum is not Irish,
+nor is he Scotch. His name is not Opossum, neither is it MacPossum. He
+belongs to an old Southern family and his name is just possum.</p>
+
+<p>Once I saw ostensible 'possum at a French restaurant in New York. It was
+advertised as <i>Opossum, Southern style</i>, and it was chopped up fine and
+cooked in a sort of casserole effect, with green peas and carrots and
+various other things mixed in along with it. The quivering sensations
+which were felt throughout the South on this occasion, and which at the
+time were mistaken for earthquake tremors, were really caused by so many
+Southern cooks turning over petulantly in their graves.</p>
+
+<p>Still going on the assumption that the turkey and the sucking pig and
+their kindred spirits are yet to be found among us or among some of us,
+anyhow, it is only logical to assume that the food is not served in
+courses at the ratio of a little of everything and not enough of
+anything, but that it is brought on and spread before the company<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> all
+together and at once&mdash;the turkey or the pig or the ham or the chickens;
+the mashed potatoes overflowing their receptacle like drifted snow; the
+celery; the scalloped oysters in a dish like a crock; the jelly layer
+cake, the fruit cake and Prince of Wales cake; and in addition,
+scattered about hither and yon, all the different kinds of
+preserves&mdash;pusserves, to use the proper title&mdash;including sweet peach
+pickles dimpled with cloves and melting away in their own sweetness, and
+watermelon-rind pickles cut into cubes just big enough to make one
+bite&mdash;that is to say in cubes about three inches square&mdash;and the various
+kinds of jellies&mdash;crab-apple, currant, grape and quince&mdash;quivering in an
+ecstacy as though at their very goodness, and casting upon the white
+cloth where the light catches them all the reflected, dancing tints of
+beryl and amethyst, ruby and garnet&mdash;crown-jewels in the diadem of real
+food.</p>
+
+<p>People who eat dinners like this must, by the very nature of things,
+cling also to the ancient North American custom of starting the day with
+an amount of regular food called collectively a breakfast. This, of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span>
+course, does not mean what the dweller in the city by the seaboard calls
+a breakfast, he knowing no better, poor wretch&mdash;a swallow of tea, a bite
+of a cold baker's roll, a plate of gruel mayhap, or pap, and a sticky
+spoonful of the national marmalade of Perfidious Albumen, as the poet
+has called it, followed by a slap at the lower part of the face with a
+napkin and a series of V-shaped hiccoughs ensuing all the morning. No,
+indeed.</p>
+
+<p>In speaking thus of breakfast, I mean a real breakfast. If it's in New
+England there'll be doughnuts and pies on the table, and not those
+sickly convict labor pies of the city either, with the prison pallor yet
+upon them, but brown, crusty, full-chested pies. And if it's down South
+there will be hot waffles and fresh New Orleans molasses; and if it's in
+any section of our country, north or south, east or west, such comfits
+and kickshaws as genuine country smoked sausage, put up in bags and
+spiced like Araby the Blest, and fresh eggs fried in pairs&mdash;never less
+than in pairs&mdash;with their lovely orbed yolks turned heavenward like<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span>
+the topaz eyes of beauteous prayerful blondes; and slices of home-cured
+ham with the taste of the hickory smoke and also of the original hog
+delicately blended in them, and marbled with fat and lean, like the
+edges of law books; and cornbeef hash, and flaky hot biscuits; and an
+assortment of those same pickles and preserves already mentioned; the
+whole being calculated to make a hungry man open his mouth until his
+face resembles the general-delivery window at the post-office&mdash;and sail
+right in.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 298px;"><a name="ILLUS4" id="ILLUS4"></a>
+<img src="images/f_004.jpg" width="298" height="500" alt="&quot;WHERE DO YOU FIND THE PERCENTAGE OF DYSPEPTICS RUNNING
+HIGHEST?&quot;" title="" />
+<span class="caption">&quot;WHERE DO YOU FIND THE PERCENTAGE OF DYSPEPTICS RUNNING
+HIGHEST?&quot;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The cry has been raised that American cooking is responsible for
+American dyspepsia, and that as a race we are given to pouring pepsin
+pellets down ourselves because of the food our ancestors poured down
+themselves. This is a base calumny. Old John J. Calumny himself never
+coined a baser one. You have only to look about you to know the truth of
+the situation, which is, that the person with the least digestion is the
+one who always does the most for it, and that those who eat the most
+have the least trouble. Where do you find the percentage of dyspeptics
+running highest, in the coun<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span>try or the city? Where do you find the
+stout woman who is banting as she pants and panting as she bants? Again,
+the city. Where do you encounter the unhappy male creature who has been
+told that the only cure for his dyspepsia is to be a Rebecca at the Well
+and drink a gallon of water before each meal and then go without the
+meal, thus compelling him to double in both roles and first be Rebecca
+and then be the Well? Where do you see so many of those miserable ones
+who have the feeling, after eating, that rude hands are tearing the
+tapestries of the walls of their respective dining rooms?</p>
+
+<p>Not in the country, where, happily, food is perhaps yet food. In the
+city, that's where&mdash;in the cities, where they have learned to cook food
+and to serve it and to eat it after a fashion different from the
+fashions their grandsires followed.</p>
+
+<p>That's a noble slogan which has lately been promulgated&mdash;See America
+First. But while we're doing so wouldn't it be a fine idea to try to see
+some American cooking?<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="MUSIC" id="MUSIC"></a><i>MUSIC</i></h2>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 216px;"><a name="ILLUS5" id="ILLUS5"></a>
+<img src="images/f_005.jpg" width="216" height="408" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>If you, the reader, are anything like me, the writer, it happens to you
+about every once in so long that some well-meaning but semi-witted
+friend rigs a dead-fall for you, and traps you and carries you off, a
+helpless captive, for an evening among the real music-lovers.</p>
+
+<p>Catching you, so to speak, with your defense leveled and your
+breastworks unmanned, he speaks to you substantially as follows: "Old
+man, we're going to have a few people up to the house tonight&mdash;just a
+little informal affair, you understand, with a song or two and some
+music&mdash;and the missus and I would appreciate it mightily if you'd put on
+your Young Prince Charmings and drop in on us along toward eight. How
+about it&mdash;can we count on you to be among those prominently present?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Forewarned is forearmed, and you know all about this person already. You
+know him to be one of the elect in the most exclusive musical coterie of
+your fair city, wherever your fair city may be. You know him to be on
+terms of the utmost intimacy with the works of all the great composers.
+Bill Opus and Jeremiah Fugue have no secrets from him&mdash;none
+whatever&mdash;and in conversation he creates the impression that old Issy
+Sonata was his first cousin. He can tell you offhand which one of the
+Shuberts&mdash;Lee or Jake&mdash;wrote that Serenade. He speaks of Mozart and
+Beethoven in such a way a stranger would probably get the idea that Mote
+and Bate used to work for his folks. He can go to a musical show, and
+while the performance is going on he can tell everybody in his section
+just which composer each song number was stolen from, humming the
+original air aloud to show the points of resemblance. He can do this, I
+say, and, what is more, he does do it. At the table d'hote place, when
+the Neapolitan troubadours come out in their little green jackets and
+their wide red sashes he is right<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> there at the middle table, poised and
+waiting; and when they put their heads together and lean in toward the
+center and sing their national air, Come Into the Garlic, Maud, it is he
+who beats time for them with his handy lead-pencil, only pausing
+occasionally to point out errors in technic and execution on the part of
+the performers. He is that kind of a pest, and you know it.</p>
+
+<p>What you should do under these circumstances, after he has invited you
+to come up to his house, would be to look him straight in the eye and
+say to him: "Well, old chap, that's awfully kind of you to include me in
+your little musical party, and just to show you how much I appreciate it
+and how I feel about it here's something for you." And then hit him
+right where his hair parts with a cut-glass paperweight or a bronze
+clock or a fire-ax or something, after which you should leap madly upon
+his prostrate form and dance on his cozy corner with both feet and cave
+in his inglenook for him. That is what you should do, but, being a
+vacillating person&mdash;I am still assuming, you see, that you are
+constituted as I am&mdash;you weakly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> surrender and accept the invitation and
+promise to be there promptly on time, and he goes away to snare more
+victims in order to have enough to make a mess.</p>
+
+<p>And so it befalls at the appointed time that you deck your form in your
+after-six-<span class="smcap">P.&nbsp;M.</span> clothes and go up. On the way you get full and fuller of
+dark forebodings at every step; and your worst expectations are realized
+as soon as you enter and are relieved of your hat by a colored person in
+white gloves, and behold spread before you a great horde of those ladies
+and gentlemen whose rapt expressions and general air of eager expectancy
+stamp them as true devotees of whatever is most classical in the realm
+of music. You realize that in such a company as this you are no better
+than a rank outsider, and that it behooves you to attract as little
+attention as possible. There is nobody else here who will be interested
+in discussing with you whether the Giants or the Cubs will finish first
+next season; nobody except you who cares a whoop how Indiana will go for
+president&mdash;in fact, most of them probably haven't heard that Indiana<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span>
+was thinking of going. Their souls are soaring among the stars in a
+rarefied atmosphere of culture, and even if you could you wouldn't dare
+venture up that far with yours, for fear of being seized by an
+uncontrollable impulse to leap off and end all, the same as some persons
+are affected when on the roof of a tall building. So you back into the
+nearest corner and try to look like a part of the furniture&mdash;and wait in
+dumb misery.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>Usually you don't have to wait very long. These people are beggars for
+punishment and like to start early. It is customary to lead off the
+program with a selection on the piano by a distinguished lady graduate
+of somebody-with-an-Italian-name's school of piano expression. Under no
+circumstances is it expected that this lady will play anything that you
+can understand or that I could understand. It would be contrary to the
+ethics of her calling and deeply repugnant to her artistic temperament
+to play a tune that would sound well on a phonograph record. This would
+never do. She comes forward, stripped for battle, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> bows and peels
+off her gloves and fiddles with the piano-stool until she gets it
+adjusted to suit her, and then she sits down, prepared to render an
+immortal work composed by one of the old masters who was intoxicated at
+the time.</p>
+
+<p>She starts gently. She throws her head far back and closes her eyes
+dreamily, and hits the keys a soft, dainty little lick&mdash;tippy-tap! Then
+leaving a call with the night clerk for eight o'clock in the morning,
+she seems to drift off into a peaceful slumber, but awakens on the
+moment and hurrying all the way up to the other end of Main Street she
+slams the bass keys a couple of hard blows&mdash;bumetty-bum! And so it goes
+for quite a long spell after that: Tippy-tap!&mdash;off to the country for a
+week-end party, Friday to Monday; bumetty-bum!&mdash;six months elapse
+between the third and fourth acts; tippetty-tip!&mdash;two years later; dear
+me, how the old place has changed! Biffetty-biff! Gracious, how time
+flies, for here it is summer again and the flowers are all in bloom! You
+sink farther and farther into your chair and debate with yourself<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span>
+whether you ought to run like a coward or stay and die like a hero. One
+of your legs goes to sleep and the rest of you envies the leg. You can
+feel your whiskers growing, and you begin to itch in two hundred
+separate places, but can't scratch.</p>
+
+<p>The strangest thing about it is that those round you appear to be
+enjoying it. Incredible though it seems, they are apparently finding
+pleasure in this. You can tell that they are enjoying themselves because
+they begin to act as real music-lovers always act under such
+circumstances&mdash;some put their heads on one side and wall up their eyes
+in a kind of dying-calf attitude and listen so hard you can hear them
+listening, and some bend over toward their nearest neighbors and murmur
+their rapture. It is all right for them to murmur, but if you so much as
+scrooge your feet, or utter a low, despairing moan or anything, they all
+turn and glare at you reproachfully and go "Sh!" like a collection of
+steam-heating fixtures. Depend on them to keep you in your place!</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="ILLUS6" id="ILLUS6"></a>
+<img src="images/f_006.jpg" width="500" height="318" alt="&quot;SHE TRIES TO TEAR ALL ITS FRONT TEETH OUT WITH HER BARE
+HANDS&quot;" title="" />
+<span class="caption">&quot;SHE TRIES TO TEAR ALL ITS FRONT TEETH OUT WITH HER BARE
+HANDS&quot;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>All of a sudden the lady operator comes out of her trance. She comes out
+of it with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> a violent start, as though she had just been bee-stung. She
+now cuts loose, regardless of the piano's intrinsic value and its
+associations to its owners. She skitters her flying fingers up and down
+the instrument from one end to the other, producing a sound like
+hailstones falling on a tin roof. She grabs the helpless thing by its
+upper lip and tries to tear all its front teeth out with her bare hands.
+She fails in this, and then she goes mad from disappointment and in a
+frenzy resorts to her fists.</p>
+
+<p>As nearly as you are able to gather, a terrific fire has broken out in
+one of the most congested tenement districts. You can hear the engines
+coming and the hook-and-ladder trucks clattering over the cobbles.
+Ambulances come, too, clanging their gongs, and one of them runs over a
+dog; and a wall falls, burying several victims in the ruin. At this
+juncture persons begin jumping out of the top-floor windows, holding
+cooking stoves in their arms, and a team runs away and plunges through a
+plate-glass window into a tinware and crockery store. People are all
+running round and shrieking, and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> dog that was run over is still
+yelping&mdash;he wasn't killed outright evidently, but only crippled&mdash;and
+several tons of dynamite explode in a basement.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>As the crashing reverberations die away the lady arises, wan but game,
+and bows low in response to the applause and backs away, leaving the
+wreck of the piano jammed back on its haunches and trembling like a leaf
+in every limb.</p>
+
+<p>All to yourself, off in your little corner, you are thinking that surely
+this has been suffering and disaster enough for one evening and
+everybody will be willing to go away and seek a place of quiet. But no.
+In its demand for fresh horrors this crowd is as insatiate as the
+ancient Romans used to be when Nero was giving one of those benefits at
+the Colosseum for the fire sufferers of his home city. There now
+advances to the platform a somber person of a bass aspect, he having a
+double-yolk face and a three-ply chin and a chest like two or three
+chests.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 257px;"><a name="ILLUS7" id="ILLUS7"></a>
+<img src="images/f_007.jpg" width="257" height="460" alt="&quot;RO-HOCKED IN THE CRA-HADLE OF THE DA-HEEP I LA-HAY ME
+DOWN IN PE-HEACE TO SA-LEEP!&quot;" title="" />
+<span class="caption">&quot;RO-HOCKED IN THE CRA-HADLE OF THE DA-HEEP I LA-HAY ME
+DOWN IN PE-HEACE TO SA-LEEP!&quot;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>You know in advance what the big-mouthed black bass is going to
+sing&mdash;there is only one regular song for a bass singer to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> sing. From
+time to time insidious efforts have been made to work in songs for
+basses dealing with the love affairs of Bedouins and the joys of life
+down in a coal mine; but after all, to a bass singer who really values
+his gift of song and wishes to make the most of it, there is but one
+suitable selection, beginning as follows:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 15em;"><i>Ro-hocked in the cra-hadle of the da-heep,</i></span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 15em;"><i>I la-hay me down in pe-heace to sa-leep!</i></span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 15em;"><i>Collum and pa-heaceful be my sa-leep</i></span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 15em;"><i>Ro-hocked in the cra-hadle of the da-heep!</i></span><br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="ILLUS8" id="ILLUS8"></a>
+<img src="images/f_008.jpg" width="500" height="315" alt="&quot;SHEM UNDOUBTEDLY SANG IT WHEN THE ANIMALS WERE HUNGRY&quot;" title="" />
+<span class="caption">&quot;SHEM UNDOUBTEDLY SANG IT WHEN THE ANIMALS WERE HUNGRY&quot;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>That is the orthodox offering for a bass. The basses of the world have
+always used it, I believe, and generally to advantage. From what I have
+been able to ascertain I judge that it was first written for use on the
+Ark. Shem sang it probably. If there is anything in this doctrine of
+heredity Ham specialized in banjo solos and soft-shoe dancing, and
+Japhet, I take it, was the tenor&mdash;he certainly had a tenor-sounding kind
+of a name. So it must have been Shem, and undoubtedly he sang it when
+the animals<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> were hungry, so as to drown out the sounds of their
+roaring.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>So this, his descendant&mdash;this chip off the old cheese, as it
+were&mdash;stands up on the platform facing you, with his chest well extended
+to show his red suspender straps peeping coyly out from the arm openings
+of his vest, and he inserts one hand into his bosom, and over and over
+again he tells you that he now contemplates laying himself down in peace
+to sleep&mdash;which is more than anybody else on the block will be able to
+do; and he rocks you in the cradle of the deep until you are as seasick
+as a cow. You could stand that, maybe, if only he wouldn't make faces at
+you while he sings. Some day I am going to take the time off to make
+scientific research and ascertain why all bass singers make faces when
+they are singing. Surely there's some psychological reason for this, and
+if there isn't it should be stopped by legislative enactment.</p>
+
+<p>When Sing-Bad the Sailor has quit rocking the boat and gone ashore, a
+female singer generally obliges and comes off the nest after a merry
+lay, cackling her triumph.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> Then there is something more of a difficult
+and painful nature on the piano; and nearly always, too, there is a
+large lady wearing a low-vamp gown on a high-arch form, who in
+flute-like notes renders one of those French ballads that's full of
+la-las and is supposed to be devilish and naughty because nobody can
+understand it. For the finish, some person addicted to elocution usually
+recites a poem to piano accompaniment. The poem Robert of Sicily is much
+used for these purposes, and whenever I hear it Robert invariably has my
+deepest sympathy and so has Sicily. Toward midnight a cold collation is
+served, and you recapture your hat and escape forth into the starry
+night, swearing to yourself that never again will you permit yourself to
+be lured into an orgy of the true believers.</p>
+
+<p>But the next time an invitation comes along you will fall again. Anyhow
+that's what I always do, meanwhile raging inwardly and cursing myself
+for a weak and spineless creature, who doesn't know when he's well off.
+Yet I would not be regarded as one who is insensible to the charms of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span>
+music. In its place I like music, if it's the kind of music I like.
+These times, when so much of our music is punched out for us by
+machinery like buttonholes and the air vents in Swiss cheese, and then
+is put up in cans for the trade like Boston beans and baking-powder,
+nothing gives me more pleasure than to drop a nickel in the slot and
+hear an inspiring selection by the author of Alexander's Ragtime Band.</p>
+
+<p>I am also partial to band music. When John Philip Sousa comes to town
+you can find me down in the very front row. I appreciate John Philip
+Sousa when he faces me and shows me that breast full of medals extending
+from the whiskerline to the beltline, and I appreciate him still more
+when he turns round and gives me a look at that back of his. Since
+Colonel W.&nbsp;F. Cody practically retired and Miss Mary Garden went away to
+Europe, I know of no public back which for inherent grace and poetry of
+spinal motion can quite compare with Mr. Sousa's.</p>
+
+<p>I am in my element then. I do not care so very much for Home, Sweet
+Home, as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> rendered with so many variations that it's almost impossible
+to recognize the old place any more; but when they switch to a march, a
+regular Sousa march full of um-pahs, then I begin to spread myself. A
+little tingle of anticipatory joy runs through me as Mr. Sousa advances
+to the footlights and first waves his baton at the great big German who
+plays the little shiny thing that looks like a hypodermic and sounds
+like stepping on the cat, and then turns the other way and waves it at
+the little bit of a German who plays the big thing that looks like a
+ventilator off an ocean liner and sounds like feeding-time at the zoo.
+And then he makes the invitation general and calls up the brasses and
+the drums and the woods and the woodwinds, and also the thunders and the
+lightnings and the cyclones and the earthquakes.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="ILLUS9" id="ILLUS9"></a>
+<img src="images/f_009.jpg" width="500" height="259" alt="&quot;AND I ENJOY IT MORE THAN WORDS CAN TELL!&quot;" title="" />
+<span class="caption">&quot;AND I ENJOY IT MORE THAN WORDS CAN TELL!&quot;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>And three or four of the trombonists pull the slides away out and let go
+full steam right in my face, with a blast that blows my hair out by the
+roots, and all hands join in and make so much noise that you can't hear
+the music. And I enjoy it more than words can tell!<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>On the other hand, grand opera does not appeal to me. I can enthuse over
+the robin's song in the spring, and the sound of the summer wind
+rippling through the ripened wheat is not without its attractions for
+me; but when I hear people going into convulsions of joy over Signor
+Massacre's immortal opera of Medulla Oblongata I feel that I am out of
+my element and I start back-pedaling. Lucy D. Lammermore may have been a
+lovely person, but to hear a lot of foreigners singing about her for
+three hours on a stretch does not appeal to me. I have a better use for
+my little two dollars. For that amount I can go to a good minstrel show
+and sit in a box.</p>
+
+<p>You may recall when Strauss' Elektra was creating such a furor in this
+country a couple of years ago. All the people you met were talking about
+it whether they knew anything about it or not, as generally they didn't.
+I caught the disease myself; I went to hear it sung.</p>
+
+<p>I only lasted a little while&mdash;I confess it unabashedly&mdash;if there is such
+a word as unabashedly&mdash;and if there isn't then I con<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span>fess it
+unashamedly. As well as a mere layman could gather from the opening
+proceedings, this opera of Elektra was what the life story of the Bender
+family of Kansas would be if set to music by Fire-Chief Croker. In the
+quieter moments of the action, when nobody was being put out of the way,
+half of the chorus assembled on one side of the stage and imitated the
+last ravings of John McCullough, and the other half went over on the
+other side of the stage and clubbed in and imitated Wallace, the
+Untamable Lion, while the orchestra, to show its impartiality, imitated
+something else&mdash;Old Home Week in a boiler factory, I think. It moved me
+strangely&mdash;strangely and also rapidly.</p>
+
+<p>Taking advantage of one of these periods of comparative calm I arose and
+softly stole away. I put a dummy in my place to deceive the turnkeys and
+I found a door providentially unlocked and I escaped out into the night.
+Three or four thousand automobiles were charging up and down Broadway,
+and there was a fire going on a couple of blocks up the street, and I
+think a suf<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span>fragette procession was passing, too; but after what I'd
+just been through the quiet was very soothing to my eardrums. I don't
+know when I've enjoyed anything more than the last part of Elektra, that
+I didn't hear.</p>
+
+<p>Yet my reader should not argue from this admission that I am deaf to the
+charms of the human voice when raised in song. Unnaturalized aliens of a
+beefy aspect vocalizing in a strange tongue while an orchestra of two
+hundreds pieces performs&mdash;that, I admit, is not for me. But just let a
+pretty girl in a white dress with a flower in her hair come out on a
+stage, and let her have nice clear eyes and a big wholesome-looking
+mouth, and let her open that mouth and show a double row of white teeth
+that'd remind you of the first roasting ear of the season&mdash;just let her
+be all that and do all that, and then let her look right at me and sing
+The Last Rose of Summer or Annie Laurie or Believe Me, If All Those
+Endearing Young Charms&mdash;and I am hers to command, world without end,
+forever and ever, amen! My eyes cloud up for a rainy<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> spell, and in my
+throat there comes a lump so big I feel like a coach-whip snake that has
+inadvertently swallowed a china darning-egg. And when she is through I
+am the person sitting in the second row down front who applauds until
+the flooring gives way and the plastering is jarred loose on the next
+floor. She can sing for me by the hour and I'll sit there by the hour
+and listen to her, and forget that there ever was such a person in the
+whole world as the late Vogner! That's the kind of a music-lover I am,
+and I suspect, if the truth were known, there are a whole lot more just
+like me.</p>
+
+<p>If I may be excused for getting sort of personal and reminiscent at this
+point I should like to make brief mention here of the finest music I
+ever heard. As it happened this was instrumental music. I had come to
+New York with a view to revolutionizing metropolitan journalism, and
+journalism had shown a reluctance amounting to positive diffidence about
+coming forward and being revolutionized. Pending the time when it should
+see fit to do so, I was stopping at a boarding house on West
+Fifty-Seventh<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> Street. It has been my observation that practically
+everybody who comes to New York stops for a while in a boarding house on
+West Fifty-Seventh Street.</p>
+
+<p>West Fifty-Seventh Street was where I was established, in a hall bedroom
+on the top floor&mdash;a hall bedroom so form-fitting and cozy that when I
+went to bed I always opened the transom to prevent a feeling of
+closeness across the chest. If I had as many as three callers in my room
+of an evening and one of them got up to go first, the others had to sit
+quietly while he was picking out his own legs. But up to the time I
+speak of I hadn't had any callers. I hadn't been there very long and I
+hadn't met any of the other boarders socially, except at the table. I
+had only what you might call a feeding acquaintance with them.</p>
+
+<p>Christmas Eve came round. I was a thousand miles from home and felt a
+million. I shouldn't be surprised if I was a little bit homesick. Anyhow
+it was Christmas Eve, and it was snowing outside according to the
+orthodox Christmas Eve formula, and upward of five million other people
+in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> New York were getting ready for Christmas without my company,
+co-operation or assistance. You'd be surprised to know how lonesome you
+can feel in the midst of five million people&mdash;until you try it on a
+Christmas Eve.</p>
+
+<p>After dinner I went up to my room and sat down with my back against the
+door and my feet on the window-ledge, and I rested one elbow in the
+washpitcher and put one knee on the mantel and tried to read the
+newspapers. The first thing I struck was a Christmas poem, a sentimental
+Christmas poem, full of allusions to the family circle, and the old
+homestead, and the stockings hanging by the fireplace, and all that sort
+of thing.</p>
+
+<p>That was enough. I put on my hat and overcoat and went down into the
+street. The snow was coming down in long, slanting lines and the
+sidewalks were all white, and where the lamplight shone on them they
+looked like the frosting on birthday cakes. People laden with bundles
+were diving in and out of all the shops. Every other shop window had a
+holly wreath hung in it, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> when the doors were opened those spicy
+Christmassy smells of green hemlock and pine came gushing out in my
+face.</p>
+
+<p>So far as I could tell, everybody in New York&mdash;except me&mdash;was buying
+something for his or her or some other body's Christmas. It was a
+tolerably lonesome sensation. I walked two blocks, loitering sometimes
+in front of a store. Nobody spoke to me except a policeman. He told me
+to keep moving. Finally I went into a little family liquor store.
+Strangely enough, considering the season, there was nobody there except
+the proprietor. He was reading a German newspaper behind the bar. I
+conferred with him concerning the advisability of an egg-nog. He had
+never heard of such a thing as an egg-nog. I mentioned two old friends
+of mine, named Tom and Jerry, respectively, and he didn't know them
+either. So I compromised on a hot lemon toddy. The lemon was one that
+had grown up with him in the liquor business, I think, and it wasn't
+what you would call a spectacular success as a hot toddy; but it was
+warming, anyhow, and that helped. I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> expanded a trifle. I asked him
+whether he wouldn't take something on me.</p>
+
+<p>He took a small glass of beer! He was a foreigner and he probably knew
+no better, so I suppose I shouldn't have judged him too harshly. But it
+was Christmas Eve and snowing outside&mdash;and he took a small beer!</p>
+
+<p>I paid him and came away. I went back to my hall bedroom up on the top
+floor and sat down at the window with my face against the pane, like
+Little Maggie in the poem.</p>
+
+<p>By now the pavements were two inches deep in whiteness and in the circle
+of light around an electric lamp up at the corner of Ninth Avenue I
+could see, dimly, the thick, whirling white flakes chasing one another
+about madly, playing a Christmas game of their own. Across the way
+foot-passengers were still passing in a straggly stream. I heard the
+flat clatter of feet upon the stairs outside, heard someone wish
+somebody else a Merry Christmas, and heard the other person grunt in a
+non-committal sort of way. There was the sound of a hall door slamming
+somewhere on my floor.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> After that there was silence&mdash;the kind of
+silence that you can break off in chunks and taste.</p>
+
+<p>It continued to snow. I reckon I must have sat there an hour or more.</p>
+
+<p>Down in the street four stories below I heard something&mdash;music. I raised
+the sash and looked out. An Italian had halted in front of the boarding
+house with a grind organ and he was turning the crank and the thing was
+playing. It wasn't much of a grind organ as grind organs go. I judge it
+must have been the original grind organ that played with Booth and
+Barrett. It had lost a lot of its most important works, and it had the
+asthma and the heaves and one thing and another the matter with it.</p>
+
+<p>But the tune it was playing was My Old Kentucky Home&mdash;and Kentucky was
+where I'd come from. The Italian played it through twice, once on his
+own hook and once because I went downstairs and divided my money with
+him.</p>
+
+<p>I regard that as the finest music I ever heard.</p>
+
+<p>As I was saying before, the classical stuff<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> may do for those who like
+it well enough to stand it, but the domestic article suits me. I like
+the kind of beer that this man Bach turned out in the spring of the
+year, but I don't seem to be able to care much for his music. And so far
+as Chopin is concerned, I hope you'll all do your Christmas Chopin
+early.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="ART" id="ART"></a><i>ART</i></h2>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 318px;"><a name="ILLUS10" id="ILLUS10"></a>
+<img src="images/f_010.jpg" width="318" height="398" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In art as in music I am one who is very easily satisfied. All I ask of a
+picture is that it shall look like something, and all I expect of music
+is that it shall sound like something.</p>
+
+<p>In this attitude I feel confident that I am one of a group of about
+seventy million people in this country, more or less, but only a few of
+us, a very heroic few of us, have the nerve to come right out and take a
+firm position and publicly express our true sentiments on these
+important subjects. Some are under the dominion of strong-minded
+wives. Some hesitate to reveal their true artistic leanings for fear of
+being called low-browed vulgarians. Some are plastic posers and so
+pretend to be something they are not to win the approval of the
+ultra-intellectuals. There are only a handful of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> us who are ready and
+willing to go on record as saying where we stand.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="ILLUS11" id="ILLUS11"></a>
+<img src="images/f_011.jpg" width="500" height="390" alt="&quot;WE LOOKED IN VAIN FOR THE KIND OF PICTURES THAT MOTHER
+USED TO MAKE AND FATHER USED TO BUY&quot;" title="" />
+<span class="caption">&quot;WE LOOKED IN VAIN FOR THE KIND OF PICTURES THAT MOTHER
+USED TO MAKE AND FATHER USED TO BUY&quot;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It is because of this cowardice on the part of the great silent majority
+that every year sees us backed farther and farther into a corner. We
+walk through miles and miles of galleries, or else we are led through
+them by our wives and our friends, and we look in vain for the kind of
+pictures that mother used to make and father used to buy. What do we
+find? Once in a while we behold a picture of something that we can
+recognize without a chart, and it looms before our gladdened vision like
+a rock-and-rye in a weary land. But that is not apt to happen often&mdash;not
+in a 1912-model gallery. In such an establishment one is likely to meet
+only Old Masters and Young Messers. If it's an Old Master we probably
+behold a Flemish saint or a German saint or an Italian saint&mdash;depending
+on whether the artist was Flemish or German or Italian&mdash;depicted as
+being shot full of arrows and enjoying same to the uttermost. If it is a
+Young Messer the canvas probably presents to us a view of a poached egg
+apparently<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> bursting into a Welsh rarebit. At least that is what it
+looks like to us&mdash;a golden buck, forty cents at any good restaurant&mdash;in
+the act of undergoing spontaneous combustion. But we are informed that
+this is an impressionistic interpretation of a sunset at sea, and we are
+expected to stand before it and carry on regardless.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>But I for one must positively decline to carry on. This sort of thing
+does not appeal to me. I don't want to have to consult the official
+catalogue in order to ascertain for sure whether this year's prize
+picture is a quick lunch or an Italian gloaming. I'm very peculiar that
+way. I like to be able to tell what a picture aims to represent just by
+looking at it. I presume this is the result of my early training. I date
+back to the Rutherford B. Hayes School of Interior Decorating. In a
+considerable degree I am still wedded to my early ideals. I distinctly
+recall the time when upon the walls of every wealthy home of America
+there hung, among other things, two staple oil paintings&mdash;a still-life
+for the dining room, showing a dead fish on a plate, and a pastoral for
+the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> parlor, showing a collection of cows drinking out of a purling
+brook. A dead fish with a glazed eye and a cold clammy fin was not a
+thing you would care to have around the house for any considerable
+period of time, except in a picture, and the same was true of cows.
+People who could not abide the idea of a cow in the kitchen gladly
+welcomed one into the parlor when painted in connection with the above
+purling brook and several shade trees.</p>
+
+<p>Those who could not afford oil paintings went in for steel engravings
+and chromos&mdash;good reliable brands, such as the steel engraving of Henry
+Clay's Farewell to the American Senate and the Teaching Baby to Waltz
+art chromo. War pictures were also very popular back in that period. If
+it were a Northern household you could be pretty sure of seeing a work
+entitled Gettysburg, showing three Union soldiers, two plain and one
+colored, in the act of repulsing Pickett's charge. If it were a Southern
+household there would be one that had been sold on subscription by a
+strictly non-partisan publishing house in Charleston, South<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> Carolina,
+and guaranteed to be historically correct in all particulars,
+representing Robert E. Lee chasing U.&nbsp;S. Grant up a palmetto tree, while
+in the background were a large number of deceased Northern invaders
+neatly racked up like cordwood.</p>
+
+<p>Such things as these were a part of the art education of our early
+youth. Along with them we learned to value the family photograph album,
+which fastened with a latch like a henhouse door, and had a nap on it
+like a furred tongue, and contained, among other treasures, the
+photograph of our Uncle Hiram wearing his annual collar.</p>
+
+<p>And there were also enlarged crayon portraits in heavy gold frames with
+red plush insertions, the agent having thrown in the portraits in
+consideration of our taking the frames; and souvenirs of the
+Philadelphia Centennial; and wooden scoop shovels heavily gilded by hand
+with moss roses painted on the scoop part and blue ribbon bows to hang
+them up by; and on the what-not in the corner you were reasonably
+certain of finding a conch shell with the Lord's Prayer engraved on it;
+and if you held the shell up<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> to your young ear you could hear the
+murmur of the sea just as plain as anything. Of course you could secure
+the same murmuring effect by holding an old-fashioned tin cuspidor up to
+your ear, too, but in this case the poetic effect would have been
+lacking. And, besides, there were other uses for the cuspidor.</p>
+
+<p>Almost the only Old Masters with whose works we were well acquainted
+were John L. Sullivan and Nonpareil Jack Dempsey. But Rosa Bonheur's
+Horse Fair suited us clear down to the ground&mdash;her horses looked like
+real horses, even if they were the kind that haul brewery wagons; and in
+the matter of sculpture Powers' Greek Slave seemed to fill the bill to
+the satisfaction of all. Anthony Comstock and the Boston Purity League
+had not taken charge of our art as yet, and nobody seemed to find any
+fault because the Greek lady looked as though she'd slipped on the top
+step and come down just as she was, wearing nothing to speak of except a
+pair of handcuffs. Nobody did speak of it either&mdash;not in a mixed company
+anyhow.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Furniture was preferred when it was new&mdash;the newer the better. We went
+in for golden oak and for bird's eye maple, depending on whether we
+liked our furniture to look tanned or freckled; and when the careful
+housekeeper threw open her parlor for a social occasion, such as a
+funeral, the furniture gave off a splendid new sticky smell, similar to
+a paint and varnish store on a hot day. The vogue for antiques hadn't
+got started yet; that was to descend upon us later on. We rather liked
+the dining-room table to have all its legs still, and the bureau to have
+drawers that could be opened without blasting. In short, that was the
+period of our national life when only the very poor had to put up with
+decrepit second-hand furniture, as opposed to these times when only the
+very rich can afford to own it. If you have any doubts regarding this
+last assertion of mine I should advise you to drop into any reliable
+antique shop and inquire the price of a mahogany sideboard suffering
+from tetter and other skin diseases, or a black walnut cupboard with
+doors that froze up solid about<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> the time of the last Seminole War. I
+suppose these things go in cycles&mdash;in fact, I'm sure they do. Some day
+the bare sight of the kind of furniture which most people favor nowadays
+will cause a person of artistic sensibilities to burst into tears, just
+as the memory of the things that everybody liked twenty-five or thirty
+years ago gives such poignant pain to so many at present.</p>
+
+<p>Even up to the time of the World's Fair quite a lot of people still
+favored the simpler and more understandable forms of art expression. We
+went to Chicago and religiously visited the Art Building, and in our
+nice new creaky shoes we walked past miles and miles of brought-on
+paintings by foreign artists, whose names we could not pronounce, in
+order to find some sentimental domestic subject. After we had found it
+we would stand in front of it for hours on a stretch with the tears
+rolling down our cheeks. Some of us wept because the spirit of the
+picture moved us, and some because our poor tired feet hurt us and the
+picture gave us a good excuse for crying in public, and so we did
+so&mdash;freely and openly.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> Grant if you will that our taste was crude and
+raw and provincial, yet we knew what we liked and the bulk of us weren't
+ashamed to say so, either. What we liked was a picture or a statue which
+remotely at least resembled the thing that it was presumed to represent.
+Likewise we preferred pictures of things that we ourselves knew about
+and could understand.</p>
+
+<p>Maybe it was because of that early training that a good many of us have
+never yet been able to work up much enthusiasm over the Old Masters.
+Mind you, we have no quarrel with those who become incoherent and
+babbling with joy in the presence of an Old Master, but&mdash;doggone
+'em!&mdash;they insist on quarreling with us because we think differently. We
+fail to see anything ravishingly beautiful in a faded, blistered,
+cracked, crumbling painting of an early Christian martyr on a grill,
+happily frying on one side like an egg&mdash;a picture that looks as though
+the Old Master painted it some morning before breakfast, when he wasn't
+feeling the best in the world, and then wore it as a liver pad for forty
+or fifty years. We<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> cannot understand why they love the Old Masters so,
+and they cannot understand why we prefer the picture of Custer's Last
+Stand that the harvesting company used to give away to advertise its
+mowing machines.</p>
+
+<p>Once you get away from the early settlers among the Old Masters the
+situation becomes different. Rembrandt and Hals painted some portraits
+that appeal deeply to the imagination of nearly all of my set. The
+portraits which they painted not only looked like regular persons, but
+so far as my limited powers of observation go, they were among the few
+painters of Dutch subjects who didn't always paint a windmill or two
+into the background. It probably took great resolution and
+self-restraint, but they did it and I respect them for it.</p>
+
+<p>I may say that I am also drawn to the kind of ladies that Gainsborough
+and Sir Joshua Reynolds painted. They certainly turned out some mighty
+good-looking ladies in those days, and they were tasty dressers, too,
+and I enjoy looking at their pictures. Coming down the line a little
+farther, I want to state that there is also something<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> very
+fascinating in those soft-boiled pink ladies, sixteen hands high, with
+sorrel manes, that Bouguereau did; and the soldier pictures of
+Meissonier and Detaille appeal to me mightily. Their soldiers are always
+such nice neat soldiers, and they never have their uniforms mussed up or
+their accouterments disarranged, even when they are being shot up or cut
+down or something. Corot and Rousseau did some landscapes that seem to
+approximate the real thing, and there are several others whose names
+escape me; but, speaking for myself alone, I wish to say that this is
+about as far as I can go at this writing. I must admit that I have never
+been held spellbound and enthralled for hours on a stretch by a
+contemplation of the inscrutable smile on Mona Lisa. To me she seems
+merely a lady smiling about something&mdash;simply that and nothing more.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="ILLUS12" id="ILLUS12"></a>
+<img src="images/f_012.jpg" width="500" height="459" alt="&quot;THE INSCRUTABLE SMILE OF A SALESLADY WOULD MAKE MONA
+LISA SEEM A MERE AMATEUR&quot;" title="" />
+<span class="caption">&quot;THE INSCRUTABLE SMILE OF A SALESLADY WOULD MAKE MONA
+LISA SEEM A MERE AMATEUR&quot;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Any woman can smile inscrutably; that is one of the specialties of the
+sex. The inscrutable smile of a saleslady in an exclusive Fifth Avenue
+shop when a customer asks to look at something a little cheaper would
+make Mona Lisa seem a mere amateur as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> an inscrutable smiler. Quite a
+number of us remained perfectly calm when some gentlemen stole Miss Lisa
+out of the Louvre, and we expect to remain equally calm if she is never
+restored.</p>
+
+<p>As I said before, our little band is shrinking in numbers day by day.
+The population as a whole are being educated up to higher ideals in art.
+On the wings of symbolism and idealism they are soaring ever higher and
+higher, until a whole lot of them must be getting dizzy in the head by
+now.</p>
+
+<p>First, there was the impressionistic school, which started it; and then
+there was the post-impressionistic school, suffering from the same
+disease but in a more violent form; and here just recently there have
+come along the Cubists and the Futurists.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 323px;"><a name="ILLUS13" id="ILLUS13"></a>
+<img src="images/f_013.jpg" width="323" height="500" alt="&quot;A PERSON WHO FOR REASONS BEST KNOWN TO THE POLICE HAS
+NOT BEEN LOCKED UP&quot;" title="" />
+<span class="caption">&quot;A PERSON WHO FOR REASONS BEST KNOWN TO THE POLICE HAS
+NOT BEEN LOCKED UP&quot;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>You know about the Cubists? A Cubist is a person who for reasons best
+known to the police has not been locked up yet, who asserts that all
+things in Nature, living and inanimate, properly resolve themselves into
+cubes. What is more, he goes and paints pictures to prove it&mdash;pictures
+of cubic waterfalls pouring down cubic precipices,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> and cubic ships
+sailing on cubic oceans, and cubic cows being milked by cubic milkmaids.
+He makes portraits, too&mdash;portraits of persons with cubic hands and cubic
+feet, who are smoking cubed cigarettes and have solid cubiform heads. On
+that last proposition we are with them unanimously; we will concede that
+there are people in this world with cube-shaped heads, they being the
+people who profess to enjoy this style of picture.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>A Futurist begins right where a Cubist leaves off, and gets worse. The
+Futurists have already had exhibitions in Paris and London and last
+Spring they invaded New York. They call themselves art anarchists. Their
+doctrine is a simple and a cheerful one&mdash;they merely preach that
+whatever is normal is wrong. They not only preach it, they practice it.</p>
+
+<p>Here are some of their teachings:</p>
+
+<p>"We teach the plunge into shadowy death under the white set eyes of the
+ideal!</p>
+
+<p>"The mind must launch the flaming body, like a fire-ship, against the
+enemy, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> eternal enemy that, if he do not exist, must be invented!</p>
+
+<p>"The victory is ours&mdash;I am sure of it, for the maniacs are already
+hurling their hearts to heaven like bombs! Attention! Fire! Our blood?
+Yes! All our blood in torrents to redye the sickly auroras of the earth!
+Yes, and we shall also be able to warm thee within our smoking arms, O
+wretched, decrepit, chilly Sun, shivering upon the summit of the
+Gorisankor!"</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="ILLUS14" id="ILLUS14"></a>
+<img src="images/f_014.jpg" width="500" height="261" alt="&quot;COLLISION BETWEEN TWO HEAVENLY BODIES OR PREMATURE
+EXPLOSION OF A CUSTARD PIE&quot;" title="" />
+<span class="caption">&quot;COLLISION BETWEEN TWO HEAVENLY BODIES OR PREMATURE
+EXPLOSION OF A CUSTARD PIE&quot;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>There you have the whole thing, you see, simply, dispassionately and
+quietly presented. Most of us have seen newspaper reproductions of the
+best examples of the Futurists' school. As well as a body can judge from
+these reproductions, a Futurist's method of execution must be
+comparatively simple. After looking at his picture, you would say that
+he first put on a woolly overcoat and a pair of overshoes; that he then
+poured a mixture of hearth paint, tomato catsup, liquid bluing, burnt
+cork, English mustard, Easter dyes and the yolks of a dozen eggs over
+himself, seasoning to taste with red peppers. Then he spread a large<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span>
+tarpaulin on the floor and lay down on it and had an epileptic fit, the
+result being a picture which he labeled Revolt, or Collision Between Two
+Heavenly Bodies, or Premature Explosion of a Custard Pie, or something
+else equally appropriate. The Futurists ought to make quite a number of
+converts in this country, especially among those advanced lovers of art
+who are beginning to realize that the old impressionistic school lacked
+emphasis and individuality in its work. But I expect to stand firm, and
+when everybody else nearly is a Futurist and is tearing down Sargent's
+pictures and Abbey's and Whistler's to make room for immortal Young
+Messers, I and a few others will still be holding out resolutely to the
+end.</p>
+
+<p>At such times as these I fain would send my thoughts back longingly to
+an artist who flourished in the town where I was born and brought up. He
+was practically the only artist we had, but he was versatile in the
+extreme. He was several kinds of a painter rolled into one&mdash;house, sign,
+portrait, landscape, marine and wagon. In his lighter<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> hours, when
+building operations were dull, he specialized in oil paintings of life
+and motion&mdash;mainly pictures of horse races and steamboat races. When he
+painted a horse race, the horses were always shown running neck and neck
+with their mouths wide open and their eyes gleaming; and their nostrils
+were widely extended and painted a deep crimson, and their legs were
+neatly arranged just so, and not scrambled together in any old fashion,
+as seems to be the case with the legs of the horses that are being
+painted nowadays. And when he painted a steamboat race it would always
+be the Natchez and the Robert E. Lee coming down the river abreast in
+the middle of the night, with the darkies dancing on the lower decks and
+heavy black smoke rolling out of the smokestacks in four distinct
+columns&mdash;one column to each smokestack&mdash;and showers of sparks belching
+up into the vault of night.</p>
+
+<p>There was action for you&mdash;action and attention to detail. With this
+man's paintings you could tell a horse from a steamboat at a glance. He
+was nothing of an impressionist; he never put smokestacks on the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span>
+horse nor legs on the steamboat. And his work gave general satisfaction
+throughout that community.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>Frederic Remington wasn't any impressionist either; and so far as I can
+learn he didn't have a cubiform idea in stock. When Remington painted an
+Indian on a pony it was a regular Indian and a regular pony&mdash;not one of
+those cotton-batting things with fat legs that an impressionist slaps on
+to a canvas and labels a horse. You could smell the lathered sweat on
+the pony's hide and feel the dust of the dry prairie tickling your
+nostrils. You could see the slide of the horse's withers and watch the
+play of the naked Indian's arm muscles. I should like to enroll as a
+charter member of a league of Americans who believe that Frederic
+Remington and Howard Pyle were greater painters than any Old Master that
+ever turned out blistered saints and fly-blown cherubim. And if every
+one who secretly thinks the same way about it would only join in&mdash;of
+course they wouldn't, but if they would&mdash;we'd be strong enough to elect
+a president on a platform calling for a pro<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span>hibitive tariff against the
+foreign-pauper-labor Old Masters of Europe.</p>
+
+<p>While we were about it our league could probably do something in the
+interests of sculpture. It is apparent to any fair-minded person that
+sculpture has been very much overdone in this country. It seems to us
+there should be a law against perpetuating any of our great men in
+marble or bronze or stone or amalgam fillings until after he has been
+dead a couple of hundred years, and by that time a fresh crop ought to
+be coming on and probably we shall have lost the desire to create such
+statues.</p>
+
+<p>A great man who cannot live in the affectionate and grateful memories of
+his fellow countrymen isn't liable to live if you put up statues of him;
+that, however, is not the main point.</p>
+
+<p>The artistic aspect is the thing to consider. So few of our great men
+have been really pretty to look at. Andrew Jackson made a considerable
+dent in the history of his period, but when it comes to beauty, there
+isn't a floor-walker in a department store anywhere that hasn't got him
+backed clear off<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> the pedestal. In addition to that, the sort of clothes
+we've been wearing for the last century or so do not show up especially
+well in marble. Putting classical draperies on our departed solons has
+been tried, but carving a statesman with only a towel draped over him,
+like a Roman senator coming out of a Turkish bath, is a departure from
+the real facts and must be embarrassing to his shade. The greatest
+celebrities were ever the most modest of men. I'll bet the spirit of the
+Father of His Country blushes every time he flits over that statue of
+himself alongside the Capitol at Washington&mdash;the one showing him sitting
+in a bath cabinet with nothing on but a sheet.</p>
+
+<p>Sticking to the actual conditions doesn't seem to help much either.
+Future generations will come and stand in front of the statue of a
+leader of thought who flourished back about 1840, say, and wonder how
+anybody ever had feet like those and lived. Horace Greeley's chin
+whiskers no doubt looked all right on Horace when he was alive, but when
+done in bronze they invariably present a droopy not to say dropsical<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span>
+appearance; and the kind of bone-handled umbrella that Daniel Webster
+habitually carried has never yet been successfully worked out in marble.
+When you contemplate the average statue of Lincoln&mdash;and most of them, as
+you may have noticed, are very average&mdash;you do not see there the majesty
+and the grandeur and the abiding sorrow of the man and the tragedy of
+his life. At least I know I do not see those things. I see a pair of
+massive square-toed boots, such as I'm sure Father Abe never wore&mdash;he
+couldn't have worn 'em and walked a step&mdash;and I see a beegum hat
+weighing a ton and a half, and I say to myself: "This is not the Abraham
+Lincoln who freed the slaves and penned the Gettysburg address. No, sir!
+A man with those legs would never have been president&mdash;he'd have been in
+a dime museum exhibiting his legs for ten cents a look&mdash;and they'd have
+been worth the money too."</p>
+
+<p>Nobody seems to have noticed it, but we undoubtedly had the cube form of
+expression in our native sculpture long before it came out in painting.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>To get a better idea of what I'm trying to drive at, just take a trip up
+through Central Park the next time you are in New York and pause a while
+before those bronzes of Sir Walter Scott and Robert Burns which stand on
+the Mall. They are called bronzes, but to me they always looked more
+like castings. I don't care if you are as Scotch as a haggis, I know in
+advance what your feelings will be. If you decide that these two men
+ever looked in life like those two bronzes you are going to lose some of
+your love and veneration for them right there on the spot; or else you
+are going to be filled with an intense hate for the persons who have
+libeled them thus, after they were dead and gone and not in position to
+protect themselves legally. But you don't necessarily have to come to
+New York&mdash;you've probably got some decoration in your home town that is
+equally sad. There've been a lot of good stone-masons spoiled in this
+country to make enough sculptors to go round.</p>
+
+<p>But while we are thinking these things about art and not daring to
+express them, I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> take note that new schools may come and new schools may
+go, but there is one class of pictures that always gets the money and
+continues to give general satisfaction among the masses.</p>
+
+<p>I refer to the moving pictures.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="SPORT" id="SPORT"></a><i>SPORT</i></h2>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 496px;"><a name="ILLUS15" id="ILLUS15"></a>
+<img src="images/f_015.jpg" width="496" height="461" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>As I understand it, sport is hard work for which you do not get paid.
+If, for hire, you should consent to go forth and spend eight hours a day
+slamming a large and heavy hammer at a mark, that would be manual toil,
+and you would belong to the union and carry a card, and have political
+speeches made to you by persons out for the labor vote. But if you do
+this without pay, and keep it up for more than eight hours on a stretch,
+it then becomes sport of a very high order&mdash;and if you continue it for a
+considerable period of time, at more or less expense to yourself, you
+are eventually given a neat German-silver badge, costing about two
+dollars, which you treasure devotedly ever after. A man who walks
+twenty-five miles a day for a month without getting anything for
+it&mdash;except two<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> lines on the sporting page&mdash;is a devotee of
+pedestrianism, and thereby acquires great merit among his fellow
+athletes. A man who walks twenty-five miles a day for a month and gets
+paid for it is a letter-carrier.</p>
+
+<p>Also sport is largely a point of view. A skinny youth who flits forth
+from a gymnasium attired in the scenario of a union suit, with a design
+of a winged Welsh rarebit on his chest, and runs many miles at top speed
+through the crowded marts of trade, is highly spoken of and has medals
+hung on him. If he flits forth from a hospital somewhat similarly
+attired, and does the same thing, the case is diagnosed as temporary
+insanity&mdash;and we drape a strait-jacket on him and send for his folks.
+Such is the narrow margin that divides Marathon and mania; and it helps
+to prove that sport is mainly a state of mind.</p>
+
+<p>I am speaking now with reference to our own country. Different nations
+have different conceptions of this subject. Golf and eating haggis in a
+state of original sin are the national pastimes of the Scotch, a hardy
+race. At submarine boating and military<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> ballooning the French
+acknowledge no superiors. Their balloons go up and never come down, and
+their submarines go down and never come up. The Irish are born club
+swingers, as witness any police force; and the Swiss, as is well known,
+have no equals at Alpine mountain climbing, chasing cuckoos into wooden
+clocks, and running hotels. I've always believed that, if the truth were
+only known, the reason why the Swiss Family Robinson did so well in that
+desert clime was because they opened a hotel and took in the natives to
+board.</p>
+
+<p>Among certain branches of the Teutonic races the favorite indoor sport
+is suicide by gas, and the favorite outdoor sport is going to a
+<i>schutzenfest</i> and singing <i>Ach du lieber Augustin!</i> coming home. To
+Italy the rest of us are indebted for unparalleled skill in eating
+spaghetti with one tool&mdash;they use the putting iron all the way round.
+Our cousins, the English, excel at archery, tea-drinking and putting the
+fifty-six pound protest. Thus we lead the world at contesting Olympian
+games and winning them, and they lead the world at losing them first and
+then con<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span>testing them. In catch-as-catch-can wrestling between
+Suffragettes and policemen the English also hold the present
+championship at all weights. And so it goes.</p>
+
+<p>We in America have a range of sports and pastimes that is as wide as our
+continent, which is fairly wide as continents go. In using the editorial
+we here I do not mean, however, to include myself. At sport I am no more
+than an inoffensive onlooker. One time or another I have tried many of
+our national diversions and have found that those which are not
+strenuous enough are entirely too strenuous for a person of fairly
+settled habits. It is much easier to look on and less fatiguing to the
+system. I find that the best results along sporting lines are attained
+by taking a comfortable seat up in the grandstand, lighting a good cigar
+and leaning back and letting somebody else do the heavy work. Reading
+about it is also a very good way.</p>
+
+<p>Take fishing, now, for example. What can be more delightful on a bright,
+pleasant afternoon, when the wind is in exactly the right quarter, than
+to take up a standard<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> work on fishing, written by some gifted traveling
+passenger agent, and with him to snatch the elusive finny tribe out of
+their native element, while the reel whirs deliriously and the hooked
+trophy leaps high in air, struggling against the feathered barb of the
+deceptive lure, and a waiter is handy if you press the button? I have
+forgotten the rest of the description; but any railroad line making a
+specialty of summer-resort business will be glad to send you the full
+details by mail, prepaid. In literature, fishing is indeed an
+exhilarating sport; but, so far as my experience goes, it does not pan
+out when you carry the idea farther.</p>
+
+<p>To begin with, there is the matter of tackle. Some people think
+collecting orchids is expensive&mdash;and I guess it is, the way the orchid
+market is at present; and some say matching up pearls costs money. They
+should try buying fishing tackle once. If J. Pierpont Morgan had gone in
+for fishing tackle instead of works of art he would have died in the
+hands of a receiver. Any self-respecting dealer in sporting goods would
+be ashamed to look his dependent<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> family in the face afterward if he
+suffered you to escape from his lair equipped for even the simplest
+fishing expedition unless he had sawed off about ninety dollars' worth
+of fishing knickknacks on you.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 401px;"><a name="ILLUS16" id="ILLUS16"></a>
+<img src="images/f_016.jpg" width="401" height="500" alt="&quot;EVERYTHING YOU CATCH IS SECOND-HAND&quot;" title="" />
+<span class="caption">&quot;EVERYTHING YOU CATCH IS SECOND-HAND&quot;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Let us say, then, that you have mortgaged the old home and have acquired
+enough fishing tackle to last you for a whole day. Then you go forth,
+always conceding that you are an amateur fisherman who fishes for fun as
+distinguished from a professional fisherman who fishes for fish&mdash;and you
+get into a rowboat that you undertake to pull yourself and that starts
+out by weighing half a ton and gets half a ton heavier at each stroke.
+You pull and pull until your spine begins to unravel at both ends, and
+your palms get so full of water blisters you feel as though you were
+carrying a bunch of hothouse grapes in each hand. And after going about
+nine miles you unwittingly anchor off the mouth of a popular garbage
+dump and everything you catch is second-hand. The sun beats down upon
+you with unabated fervor and the back of your neck colors up like a
+meerschaum pipe; and after<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> about ten minutes you begin to yearn with
+a great, passionate yearning for a stiff collar and some dry clothes,
+and other delights of civilization.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>If, on the other hand, I am being guided by an experienced angler it has
+been my observation that he invariably takes me to a spot where the fish
+bit greedily yesterday and will bite avariciously tomorrow, but, owing
+to a series of unavoidable circumstances, are doing very little in the
+biting line today. Or if by any chance they should be biting they at
+once contract an intense aversion for my goods. Others may catch them as
+freely as the measles, but toward me fish are never what you would call
+infectious. I'm one of those immunes. Or else the person in charge
+forgets to bring any bait along. This frequently happens when I am in
+the party.</p>
+
+<p>One day last summer I went fishing in the Savannah River, and we
+traveled miles and miles to reach the fishing-ground. We found the water
+there alive with fish, and anchored where they were thickest; and then
+the person who was guiding the expedition discov<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span>ered that he had left
+the bait on the wharf. He is the most absent-minded man south of the
+Ohio anyhow. In the old days before Georgia went dry he had to give up
+carrying a crook-handled umbrella. He would invariably leave it hanging
+on the rail. So I should have kept the bait in mind myself&mdash;but I
+didn't, being engaged at the time in sun-burning a deep, radiant
+magenta. However it was not a fast color&mdash;long before night it was
+peeling off in long, painful strips.</p>
+
+<p>Suppose you do catch something! You cast and cast, sometimes burying
+your hook in submerged d&eacute;bris and sometimes in tender portions of your
+own person. After a while you land a fish; but a fish in a boat is
+rarely so attractive as he was in a book. One of the drawbacks about a
+fish is that he becomes dead so soon&mdash;and so thoroughly.</p>
+
+<p>I have been speaking thus far of river fishing. I would not undertake to
+describe at length the joys of brook fishing, because I tried it only
+once. Once was indeed sufficient, not to say ample. On this occasion I
+was chaperoned by an old, experienced<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span> brook fisherman. I was astonished
+when I got my first view of the stream. It seemed to me no more than a
+trickle of moisture over a bed of boulders&mdash;a gentle perspiration
+coursing down the face of Nature, as it were. Any time they tapped a
+patient for dropsy up that creek there would be a destructive freshet, I
+judged; but, as it developed, this brook was deceptive&mdash;it was full of
+deep, cold holes. I found all these holes.</p>
+
+<p>I didn't miss a single one. While I was finding them and then crawling
+out of them, my companion was catching fish. He caught quite a number,
+some of them being nearly three inches long. They were speckled and had
+rudimentary gills and suggestions of fins, and he said they were brook
+trout&mdash;and I presume they were; but if they had been larger they would
+have been sardines. You cannot deceive me regarding the varieties of
+fish that come in cans. I would say that the best way to land a brook
+trout is to go to a restaurant and order one from a waiter in whom you
+have confidence. In that way you will avoid those deep holes.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Nor have I ever shone as a huntsman. If the shadowy roeshad is not for
+me neither is her cousin, the buxom roebuck. Nor do I think I will ever
+go in for mountain-climbing as a steady thing, having tried it. Poets
+are fond of dwelling upon the beauties of the everlasting hills,
+swimming in purple and gold&mdash;but no poet ever climbed one. If he ever
+did he would quit boosting and start knocking. I was induced to scale a
+large mountain in the northern part of New York. It belonged to the
+state; and, like so many other things the state undertakes to run, it
+was neglected. No effort whatever had been made to make it cozy and
+comfortable for the citizen. It was one of those mountains that from a
+distance look smooth and gentle of ascent, but turn out to be rugged and
+seamy and full of rocks with sharp corners on them at about the height
+of the average human knee or shin. The lady for whom that mountain in
+Mexico, Chapultepec, is named&mdash;oh, yes, Miss Anna Peck&mdash;would have had a
+perfectly lovely time scaling that mountain; but I didn't.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILLUS17" id="ILLUS17"></a>
+<img src="images/f_017.jpg" width="400" height="407" alt="&quot;HE COULD BEAT ME CLIMBING, BUT AT PANTING I HAD HIM
+LICKED TO A WHISPER&quot;" title="" />
+<span class="caption">&quot;HE COULD BEAT ME CLIMBING, BUT AT PANTING I HAD HIM
+LICKED TO A WHISPER&quot;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>After we had climbed upward at an acute<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> angle for several hundred
+miles&mdash;my companion said yards, but I know better; it was miles&mdash;I threw
+myself prone upon the softer surfaces of a large granite slab, feeling
+that I could go no farther. I also wished to have plenty of room in
+which to pant. He could beat me climbing, but at panting I had him
+licked to a whisper. He was a person without sympathy. In his bosom the
+milk of human kindness had clabbered and turned to a brick-cheese. He
+stood there and laughed. There are times to laugh, but this was not one
+of the times. Anyway I always did despise those people who are built
+like sounding boards and have fine acoustic qualities inside their
+heads&mdash;and not much of anything else; but never did I despise them more
+than at that moment. He sent his grating, raucous, discordant, ill-timed
+guffaws reverberating off among the precipitous crags, and then he
+turned from me and went forging ahead.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>He was almost out of sight when I remembered about there being bears on
+that mountain; so I rose and undertook to forge ahead too. I was not a
+great success at it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> however. I know now that if ever I should turn to a
+life of crime forgery would not be my forte. I do not forge readily.
+Eventually, though, I reached the summit, he being already there. We had
+come up for the view, but I seemed to have lost my interest in views;
+so, while he looked at the view, I reclined in a prostrate position and
+resumed panting. That was three years ago and I am still somewhat behind
+with my pants. I am going to take a week off sometime and pant steadily
+and try to catch up; but the outing taught me one thing&mdash;I learned a
+simple way of descending a steep mountain. If one is of a circular style
+of construction it is very simple. One rolls.</p>
+
+<p>Camping is highly spoken of, and I have tried camping a number of times.
+When I go camping it rains. It begins to rain when I start and it keeps
+on raining until I come back. It never fails. I have often thought that
+drought-sufferers in various parts of the country who seek to attract
+rain in dry spells make a mistake. They try the old-fashioned Methodist
+way of praying for it, or the new scientific way of shooting dynamite
+bombs<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> off and trying to blast it out of the heavens; when, as a matter
+of fact, the best plan would be to send for me and get me to go camping
+in the arid district. It would then rain heavily and without cessation.</p>
+
+<p>It is a fine thing to talk about the perfumed and restful bed of balsam
+boughs, and the crackle of the campfire at dusk, and the dip in the
+mirrored bosom of the pellucid lake at dawn&mdash;old Emerson Hough does all
+that to perfection; but these things assume a different aspect when it
+rains. There are three conditions in life when any latent selfishness in
+a man's being, however far down it may be buried ordinarily, will come
+surging to the surface&mdash;when he is courting a girl against strong
+opposition; when he is playing a gentleman's game of poker, purely for
+sociability; and when he is camping out and it rains. Before a man makes
+up his mind that he will take a girl to be his wife he should induce her
+to go in surf bathing and see how she looks when she comes out; and
+before he makes up his mind that he will take a man to be his best
+friend he should go camping with him in the rainy<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> season&mdash;the answer in
+both cases being that then he won't do either one.</p>
+
+<p>I remember going camping once with a man who before that had appeared to
+be all that one could ask in the way of a chosen comrade; but after we
+had spent four days cooped up together in an eight-by-ten tent that was
+built with sloping shoulders, like an Englishman's overcoat, listening
+to the sough of the wind through the wet pine trees without, and dodging
+the streams of water that percolated through the dripping roof within, I
+could think of more than seven thousand things about that man that I
+cordially disliked.</p>
+
+<p>His whiskers gradually became the most distasteful of all to me. Either
+he hadn't brought a razor along or it was too wet for shaving&mdash;or
+something; and his whiskers grew out, and they were bristly and red in
+color, which was something I had not suspected before. As I sat there
+with the little rivulets running down the back of my neck and the rust
+forming on my amalgam fillings and mold on my shoes and mushrooms
+sprouting under my hatband, it seemed to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> me that he had taken an unfair
+advantage of me by having red whiskers. Viewed through the drizzle they
+appeared to be the reddest, the most inflammatory, the most
+poisonous-looking whiskers I ever saw! They were too red to be natural.</p>
+
+<p>I decided finally that he must have been scared by a Jersey bull so that
+his whiskers turned red in a single night&mdash;and I was getting ready to
+twit him about it; but he beat me to it. It seemed that all this time he
+had been feeling more and more deeply offended at the way in which my
+ears were adjusted to my head. He couldn't make up his mind, he said,
+which way he would hate me more&mdash;with my ears or without them; but he
+was willing to take a butcher knife and experiment. He also said that,
+as an expert bookkeeper, he wouldn't know whether to enter my ears as
+outstanding losses or amounts brought forward. Going into those woods we
+were just the same as Damon and Pythias; but coming out his bite would
+have been instant death, and I felt toward him exactly as the tarantula
+does<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> toward the centipede. We were the original Blue-Gum Twins.</p>
+
+<p>Coming now to aquatic sports as distinguished from pastimes ashore, I
+feel that I am better qualified to speak authoritatively, having had
+more experience in that direction. Let us start with canoeing. Canoeing
+is a sport fraught with constant surprises. A canoeing trip is rarely
+the same thing twice in succession; and particularly is this true in
+streams where the temperature of the water is subject to change. It is
+comparatively easy to paddle a canoe if you only remember to scoop
+toward you. You merely reverse the process by which truly refined people
+imbibe soup. Even if you never master the art of paddling you may still
+get along fairly well if you know how to swim. On the whole I would say
+that one is liable to enjoy a longer career as a canoeist where one
+swims but can't paddle, than where one paddles but can't swim.</p>
+
+<p>Approaching the subject of motor-boating as compared with sailboating,
+we find the situation becoming complicated and growing technical. In
+sailing, as is gener<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span>ally known, you depend upon the wind; and there are
+only two things the wind does&mdash;one is to blow and the other is not to
+blow. But when you begin to figure up the things that a motor boat will
+do when you don't want it to, and won't do when you do want it to, you
+are face to face with one of the most complicated mathematical jobs
+known to the realm of mechanical science.</p>
+
+<p>A motor boat undoubtedly has a larger and fancier repertoire of cute
+tricks and unexpected ways than anything in the nature of machinery. I
+know this to be true, because I have a relative who suffers from
+motor-boatitis in an advanced form. He has owned many different brands
+of motor boats&mdash;that is one reason, I think, why he is not wealthier; in
+fact he has had about all the kinds there are except a kind that will
+start when you wish it to and stop when you expect it to. His motor
+boats do nearly everything&mdash;backfire, and fail to spark, and clog up,
+and blow up, and break down, and smash up and drift ashore, and drift
+out from shore, and have the asthma and the heaves and impediments of
+speech; but he<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> has never yet owned one that could be depended upon to
+do the two things I have just mentioned.</p>
+
+<p>After trying various models and discarding them, he now has one of the
+most complete motor boats made. It has what is known as a hunting cabin,
+it being so called, I think, because the moment anybody gets into it he
+has to get out again while the owner crawls in and takes up all the
+seats and hunts for something. It is the theory that one could live
+afloat in this hunting cabin&mdash;and so one could if one were only a
+dachshund and inured to exposure. It is plenty wide enough for the
+average dachshund and plenty high enough, too, but not more than about
+two-thirds long enough. If one were a dachshund one would either have to
+coil up or else remain partly outdoors. Also, on board is a galley,
+which would be a success in every way if you could find a style of cook
+who could get used to sitting on one hole of the stove while he cooked
+on the other. One of those talented parlor magicians who does light
+housekeeping in a borrowed high hat by breaking raw<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span> eggs into it and
+then taking out omelet souffles, might fill the bill&mdash;only I never have
+chanced to see a parlor magician yet who could crowd himself and his
+feet into that galley at the same time.</p>
+
+<p>The principal feature of this motor boat, however, is the engine, which
+is a very complicated and beautiful thing, with coils and plugs and
+brakes strewed about over it here and there, and a big flywheel
+superimposed right in front. It is the theory that, by opening several
+cocks and closing several others, and adjusting about fifteen or twenty
+little duflickers just so, and then revolving this wheel briskly with a
+crank provided for that purpose, the engine can be started. It is
+supposed to say chug-chug a couple of times impatiently, and then go
+scooting away, chug-chugging like an inspired slide-trombone.</p>
+
+<p>Such is the theory, but such is not the fact. I've seen the owner crank
+her until his backbone comes unjointed, without getting any response
+whatsoever. And then, just when he is about to succumb to hate and
+overexertion, the thing says tut-tut reprovingly&mdash;and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span> then gives one
+tired pish and a low mournful tush and coughs about a pint of warm
+gasoline into his face and dies as dead as Jesse James. I've seen her do
+that time and time again; but if she ever does start, the only way to
+stop her is to steer into some solid immovable object, such as the
+Western Hemisphere.</p>
+
+<p>At that, motor-boating for an amateur such as I am has certain
+advantages over sailboating. A motor-boatist&mdash;even the most reckless
+kind&mdash;knows enough to stay ashore when a West Indian hurricane is
+romping along the coast, playfully chasing its own tail like a young
+puppy; but that kind of a situation is just pie for your seasoned
+sailboatist.</p>
+
+<p>Only last summer I had a very distressing experience in connection with
+a sailboat, which was owned by a friend of mine&mdash;or perhaps I should say
+he was a friend of mine until this matter came up. From the clubhouse
+porch I had often admired his boat skimming gracefully over the bay,
+with its sail making a white gore against the blue background; and one
+day he invited<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span> me to go out with him for a sail. Before I had time
+for that second thought which is so desirable under such circumstances,
+I found myself committed to the venture.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>Right here, though, I wish to state that if anybody ever gets me out in
+a small sailboat again it will be over my dead body.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="ILLUS18" id="ILLUS18"></a>
+<img src="images/f_018.jpg" width="500" height="473" alt="&quot;SHE WAS NOT MUCH LARGER THAN A SOAPDISH&quot;" title="" />
+<span class="caption">&quot;SHE WAS NOT MUCH LARGER THAN A SOAPDISH&quot;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Well, anyway, we cast off, as he called it. I did not like that
+phrase&mdash;cast off&mdash;it sounded too much as though one were bidding
+farewell to all earthly ties&mdash;and almost immediately I was struck by
+other disconcerting facts. The first one was that his boat, which had
+looked roomy and commodious when viewed from shore, appeared to shrink
+up so when you were aboard her. Really, she was not much larger than a
+soapdish and not nearly so reliable. And another thing I noticed was a
+lot of the angriest-looking clouds that anybody ever saw, piling up on
+the horizon. And the waves were slopping up and down, and giving to the
+water that dark, forbidding appearance that is so inspiring in a marine
+painting, but so depressing when you are thrown into personal contact
+with it.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I made a suggestion. As I recall now, I said something about waiting
+until the typhoon was over; but my friend grinned in an annoying,
+superior kind of way and said he doubted whether the wind would blow
+more than half a gale. He was right there&mdash;but it was the last half.
+Anyhow he swung her round and she heeled away over in an alarming
+fashion, and we headed right into the center of the vortex. He gave me
+the end of a rope to hold and told me to swing on to it, which I was
+very glad to do, because there are times and places when it gives you a
+slight sense of comfort to have anything at all to hold to, even if it
+is only a rope. On and on we careened madly. I was so occupied with
+harkening to the howl of the mad winds in the rigging and watching the
+mad waves that, when he suddenly called out something which sounded like
+Hard Ah Lee, I paid no attention. If his fancy led him in a moment of
+dire peril like this to be yelling for somebody with a name like a
+Chinese laundryman, it was no concern of mine.</p>
+
+<p>Then he bellowed: "Leggo that sheet!"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Now I knew there was something about a sailboat called a sheet, but I
+naturally assumed it was the sail. I leave it to any disinterested
+person if a sail, being white and more or less square in shape, doesn't
+look more like a sheet than a mere rope does. So, as I wasn't near the
+sail, but was merely holding on to my rope, I started to tell him I
+wasn't touching his blamed old sheet. But the words were never spoken.</p>
+
+<p>The boat tried to shy out from under me and came very nearly succeeding.
+At the same time, she buckjumped and stood right up on one edge, like a
+demented gravy dish. At the same moment, also, a considerable portion of
+the Atlantic Ocean came aboard and lit in my lap, and something struck
+me alongside the head with frightful force; and something else scraped
+me off the place where I was sitting and hurled me headlong.</p>
+
+<p>When I came to, the man who owned the boat was scrambling round,
+stepping on me and my clothes, and grabbing at loose ends, and swearing;
+but as soon as he had a moment to spare from these other duties he<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span>
+called me a derned idiot! I was his guest, mind you, and he used that
+language toward me.</p>
+
+<p>"You derned idiot!" he said. "Didn't you see she was about to jibe?"</p>
+
+<p>I told him in a dignified manner that I certainly did not; that had I
+known she was about to jibe I would most certainly have jobe with her;
+that personally I preferred any amount of jibbing, however painful, to
+being drowned first and then beaten to death. I demanded to know why he
+had assaulted me upon the head and what he did it with.</p>
+
+<p>It developed, though, that he had not struck me at all. The boom swung
+round and hit me. This is a heavy section of lumber, and I think it is
+called a boom from the hollow, ringing sound it makes when dashing out
+the brains of amateur sailors. In my judgment these booms are dangerous
+and their presence should not be permitted aboard a sailing craft&mdash;or,
+at least, they should be towed a safe distance aft.</p>
+
+<p>But I digress. Referring to the devastating and angry elements that
+encompassed us,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span> the owner of the boat said there was now a nice,
+fresh breeze blowing, and that he hated to miss the fun; but if I
+preferred to he would run back in and hug the shore. Hug it! I was ready
+to kiss it! What I wanted to do was to take that dear shore in both arms
+and press my throbbing cheeks against her mossy breast, and swear that
+nothing should ever again come between me and the solid part of the
+continent of North America.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<p>So, by a sheer miracle escaping death on the way, we returned, and I
+betook myself off of that craft and headed straight for the clubhouse. I
+wish to take advantage of this opportunity, however, to deny the report
+subsequently circulated by certain malicious persons to the effect that
+I was scared. Any passing agitation I may have betrayed was due to my
+relief at finding that the cyclone, despite its fury, had not swept the
+North Atlantic Coast bare. I also wish to deny the story that I was
+pale. I have one of those complexions that come and go. Anybody who
+knows me will tell you that.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>However, I have decided to give up sailboating; and, to a person of my
+shape and conservative tendencies, this leaves the field of outdoor
+sport considerably circumscribed. I am too peaceful for baseball and not
+warlike enough for football. I had thought some of taking up tennis, but
+have been deterred by the fact that so many young women excel at tennis.
+I could stand being licked by another man, but the idea of facing one of
+those sinewy young-lady champions whose stalwart face looks out at you
+from the sporting page is repellent to me.</p>
+
+<p>I can understand why so very few of these ultra-athletic college girls
+marry off early. A man instinctively is drawn to the clinging-vine type
+of female. If there is any sturdy oak round the place he wants to be it.
+But what I cannot understand is how these brawny young persons can be
+the granddaughters and the great granddaughters of those fragile
+creatures, with wasp waists and tiny feet, who lived back in the Early
+Victorian period and suffered from megrims and vapors. I'll venture that
+none of this generation ever had a vapor in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> her life; and as for
+megrims, she wouldn't know one if she met it in the big road. She may be
+muscle-bound and throw a splint sometimes, or get the Charley horse; but
+megrims are not for her&mdash;believe me!</p>
+
+<p>Oh, I've seen them often&mdash;the adorable yet brawny creatures, leaping six
+feet into the air and smacking a defenseless tennis ball with such vigor
+that it started right off in the general direction of Sioux Falls at the
+rate of upwards of ninety miles an hour, and coming down flat-footed
+without having jostled so much as a hairpin out of place. You may
+worship them, all right enough, but it is safer to do so at long
+distance.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 440px;"><a name="ILLUS19" id="ILLUS19"></a>
+<img src="images/f_019.jpg" width="440" height="500" alt="&quot;THINK OF BEING LAID FACE DOWNWARD FIRMLY ACROSS A SINEWY
+KNEE AND BEATEN FORTY-LOVE WITH ONE OF THOSE HARD CATGUT RACKETS!&quot;" title="" />
+<span class="caption">&quot;THINK OF BEING LAID FACE DOWNWARD FIRMLY ACROSS A SINEWY
+KNEE AND BEATEN FORTY-LOVE WITH ONE OF THOSE HARD CATGUT RACKETS!&quot;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Suppose you were hooked up for life to a lady champion and you happened
+to displease her? She'd spank you! Think of being laid face downward
+firmly across a sinewy knee and beaten forty-love with one of those hard
+catgut rackets! The very suggestion is intolerable to a believer in the
+supremacy of the formerly sterner sex.</p>
+
+<p>So I have decided not to take up tennis; but the doctor says I need
+exercise, and I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span> think I will go in for golf, which is a young man's
+vice and an old man's penance. I have already taken the preliminary
+steps. I have joined a country club; I have also chosen my caddie. He is
+a deaf-and-dumb caddie, who has never been known to laugh at anything.</p>
+
+<p>That is why I chose him.</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Cobb's Bill-of-Fare, by Irvin Shrewsbury Cobb
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Cobb's Bill-of-Fare, by Irvin Shrewsbury Cobb
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Cobb's Bill-of-Fare
+
+Author: Irvin Shrewsbury Cobb
+
+Illustrator: Peter Newell and James Preston
+
+Release Date: February 13, 2008 [EBook #24595]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COBB'S BILL-OF-FARE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Bryan Ness, Annie McGuire and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Book Cover]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Frontispiece]
+
+
+
+
+ _Cobb's Bill-of-Fare_
+
+ _By_
+
+ _Irvin S. Cobb_
+
+ _Author of_
+ "_The Escape of Mr. Trimm_," "_Back Home_,"
+ "_Cobb's Anatomy_," _etc._
+
+ _Illustrated by_
+ _Peter Newell and James Preston_
+
+ [Illustration]
+
+ _New York_
+ _George H. Doran Company_
+
+ COPYRIGHT, 1911 1912,
+ BY THE CURTIS PUBLISHING COMPANY
+ COPYRIGHT, 1913,
+ BY GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY
+
+
+ TO
+ R. H. DAVIS
+
+ (NOT RICHARD HARDING--
+ THE OTHER ONE)
+
+
+
+
+_AS FOLLOWS_
+
+
+ PAGE
+
+ I. VITTLES 13
+
+ II. MUSIC 47
+
+ III. ART 81
+
+ IV. SPORT 113
+
+
+
+
+_ILLUSTRATIONS_
+
+
+ PAGE
+
+ "I now greatly desire to eat some regular food." 15
+
+ "Those who in the goodness of their hearts may
+ undertake a search for the sucking pig." 35
+
+ "Where do you find the percentage of dyspeptics
+ running highest?" 41
+
+ "She tries to tear all its front teeth out with her
+ bare hands." 51
+
+ "Ro-hocked in the cra-hadle of the da-heep,
+ I la-hay me down in pe-heace to sa-leep!" 57
+
+ "Shem undoubtedly sang it when the animals were
+ hungry." 61
+
+ "And I enjoy it more than words can tell!" 67
+
+ "We looked in vain for the kind of pictures that
+ mother used to make and father used to buy." 83
+
+ "The inscrutable smile of a saleslady would make
+ Mona Lisa seem a mere amateur." 93
+
+ "A person who for reasons best known to the police
+ has not been locked up." 97
+
+ "Collision between two heavenly bodies or premature
+ explosion of a custard pie." 103
+
+ "Everything you catch is second-hand." 119
+
+ "He could beat me climbing, but at panting I had
+ him licked to a whisper." 125
+
+ "She was not much larger than a soapdish." 137
+
+ "Think of being laid face downward firmly across
+ a sinewy knee and beaten forty-love with one of
+ those hard catgut rackets!" 143
+
+
+
+
+_VITTLES_
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+Upon a certain gladsome occasion a certain man went into a certain
+restaurant in a certain large city, being imbued with the idea that he
+desired a certain kind of food. Expense was with him no object. The
+coming of the holidays had turned his thoughts backward to the care-free
+days of boyhood and he longed for the holidaying provender of his youth
+with a longing that was as wide as a river and as deep as a well.
+
+"Me, I have tried it all," he said to himself. "I have been down the
+line on this eating proposition from alphabet soup to animal crackers. I
+know the whole thing, from the nine-dollar, nine-course banquet, with
+every course bathed freely in the same kind of sauce and tasting exactly
+like all the other courses, to the quick lunch, where the only
+difference between clear soup and beef broth is that if you want the
+beef broth the waiter sticks his thumb into the clear soup and brings it
+along.
+
+"I have feasted copiously at grand hotels where they charge you corkage
+on your own hot-water bottle, and I have dallied frugally with the
+forty-cent table d'hote with wine, when the victuals were the product of
+the well-known Sam Brothers--Flot and Jet--and the wine tasted like the
+stuff that was left over from graining the woodwork for a mahogany
+finish.
+
+[Illustration: "I NOW GREATLY DESIRE TO EAT SOME REGULAR FOOD."]
+
+"I now greatly desire to eat some regular food, and if such a thing be
+humanly possible I should also prefer to eat it in silence unbroken
+except by the noises I make myself. I have eaten meals backed up so
+close to the orchestra that the leader and I were practically wearing
+the same pair of suspenders. I have been howled at by a troupe of
+Sicilian brigands armed with their national weapons--the garlic and the
+guitar. I have been tortured by mechanical pianos and automatic
+melodeons, and I crave quiet. But in any event I want food. I cannot
+spare the time to travel nine hundred miles to get it, and I must,
+therefore, take a chance here."
+
+So, as above stated, he entered this certain restaurant and seated
+himself; and as soon as the Hungarian string band had desisted from
+playing an Italian air orchestrated by a German composer he got the
+attention of an omnibus, who was Greek, and the bus enlisted the
+assistance of a side waiter, he being French, and the side waiter in
+time brought to him the head waiter, regarding whom I violate no
+confidence in stating that he was Swiss. The man I have been quoting
+then drew from his pockets a number of bank notes and piled them up
+slowly, one by one, alongside his plate. Beholding the denominations of
+these bills the head waiter with difficulty restrained himself from
+kissing the hungry man upon the bald spot on his head. The sight of a
+large bill invariably quickens the better nature of a head waiter.
+
+"Now, then," said the enhungered one, "I would have speech with you. I
+desire food--food suitable for a free-born American stomach on such a
+day as this. No, you needn't wave that menu at me. I can shut my eyes
+and remember the words and music of every menu that ever was printed. I
+don't know what half of it means because I am no court interpreter, but
+I can remember it. I can sing it, and if I had my clarinet here I could
+play it. Heave the menu over the side of the boat and listen to me. What
+I want is just plain food--food like mother used to make and mother's
+fair-haired boy used to eat. We will start off with turkey--turkey _a
+la_ America, understand; turkey that is all to the Hail Columbia, Happy
+Land. With it I want some cramberry sauce--no, not cranberry, I guess I
+know its real name--some cramberry sauce; and some mashed
+potatoes--mashed with enthusiasm and nothing else, if you can arrange
+it--and some scalloped oysters and maybe a few green peas. Likewise I
+want a large cup of coffee right along with these things--not served
+afterward in a misses' and children's sized cup, but along with the
+dinner."
+
+"Salad?" suggested the head waiter, reluctantly withdrawing his
+fascinated vision from the pile of bills. "Salad?" he said.
+
+"No salad," said the homesick stranger, "not unless you could chop me up
+some lettuce and powder it with granulated sugar and pour a little
+vinegar over it and bring it in to me with the rest of the grub. Where I
+was raised we always had chewing tobacco for the salad course, anyhow."
+
+The head waiter's whole being recoiled from the bare prospect. He seemed
+on the point of swooning, but looked at the money and came to.
+
+"Dessert?" he added, poising a pencil.
+
+"Well," said the man reflectively, "I don't suppose you could fix me up
+some ambrosia--that's sliced oranges with grated cocoanut on top. And in
+this establishment I doubt if you know anything about boiled custard,
+with egg kisses bobbing round it and sunken reefs of sponge cake
+underneath. So I guess I'd better compromise on some plum pudding; but
+mind you, not the imported English plum pudding. English plum pudding is
+not a food, it's a missile, and when eaten it is a concealed deadly
+weapon. I want an American plum pudding. Mark well my words--an
+American plum pudding.
+
+"And," he concluded, "if you can bring me these things, just so, without
+any strange African sauces or weird Oriental fixings or trans-Atlantic
+goo stirred into them or poured on to them or breathed upon them, I
+shall be very grateful to you, and in addition I shall probably make you
+independently wealthy for life."
+
+It was quite evident that the head waiter regarded him as a
+lunatic--perhaps only a lunatic in a mild form and undoubtedly one
+cushioned with ready money--but nevertheless a lunatic. Yet he indicated
+by a stately bow that he would do the best he could under the
+circumstances, and withdrew to take the matter up with the house
+committee.
+
+"Now this," said the man, "is going to be something like. To be sure the
+table is not set right. As I remember how things used to look at home
+there should be a mustache cup at Uncle Hiram's plate, so he could drink
+his floating island without getting his cream-separators mussy, and
+there ought to be a vinegar cruet at one end and a silver cake basket at
+the other and about nine kinds of pickles and jellies scattered round;
+and in the center of the table there should be a winter bouquet--a nice,
+hard, firm, dark red winter bouquet--containing, among other things, a
+sheaf of wheat, a dried cockscomb and a couple of oak galls. Yet if the
+real provender is forthcoming I can put up with the absence of the
+proper settings and decorations."
+
+He had ample leisure for these thoughts, because, as you yourself may
+have noticed, in a large restaurant when you order anything that is out
+of the ordinary--which means anything that is ordinary--it takes time to
+put the proposition through the proper channels. The waiter lays your
+application before the board of governors, and after the board of
+governors has disposed of things coming under the head of unfinished
+business and good of the order it takes a vote, and if nobody blackballs
+you the treasurer is instructed to draw a warrant and the secretary
+engrosses appropriate resolutions, and your order goes to the cook.
+
+But finally this man's food arrived. And he looked at it and sniffed at
+it daintily--like a reluctant patient going under the ether--and he
+tasted of it; and then he put his face down in his hands and burst into
+low, poignant moans. For it wasn't the real thing at all. The stuffing
+of the turkey defied chemical analysis; and, moreover, the turkey before
+serving should have been dusted with talcum powder and fitted with
+dress-shields, it being plainly a crowning work of the art
+preservative--meaning by that the cold-storage packing and pickling
+industry. And if you can believe what Doctor Wiley says--and if you
+can't believe the man who has dedicated his life to warning you against
+the things which you put in your mouth to steal away your membranes,
+whom can you believe?--the cranberry sauce belonged in a paint store and
+should have been labeled Easter-egg dye, and the green peas were green
+with Paris green.
+
+As for the plum pudding, it was one of those burglar-proof,
+enamel-finished products that prove the British to be indeed a hardy
+race. And, of course, they hadn't brought him his coffee along with his
+dinner, the management having absolutely refused to permit of a thing so
+revolutionary and unprecedented and one so calculated to upset the whole
+organization. And at the last minute the racial instincts of the cook
+had triumphed over his instructions, and he had impartially imbued
+everything with his native brews, gravies, condiments, seasonings,
+scents, preservatives, embalming fluids, liquid extracts and
+perfumeries. So, after weeping unrestrainedly for a time, the man paid
+the check, which was enormous, and tipped everybody freely and went away
+in despair and, I think, committed suicide on an empty stomach. At any
+rate, he came no more. The moral of this fable is, therefore, that it
+can't be done.
+
+But why can't it be done? I ask you that and pause for a reply. Why
+can't it be done? It is conceded, I take it, that in the beginning our
+cookery was essentially of the soil. Of course when our forebears came
+over they brought along with them certain inherent and inherited Old
+World notions touching on the preparation of raw provender in order to
+make it suitable for human consumption; but these doubtless were soon
+fused and amalgamated with the cooking and eating customs of the
+original or copper-colored inhabitants. The difference in environment
+and climate and conditions, together with the amplified wealth of native
+supplies, did the rest. In Merrie England, as all travelers know, there
+are but three staple vegetables--to wit, boiled potatoes, boiled
+turnips, and a second helping of the boiled potatoes. But here, spread
+before the gladdened vision of the newly arrived, and his to pick and
+choose from, was a boundless expanse of new foodstuffs--birds, beasts
+and fishes, fruits, vegetables and berries, roots, herbs and sprouts. He
+furnished the demand and the soil was there competently with the supply.
+
+We owe a lot to our red brother. From him we derived a knowledge of the
+values and attractions of the succulent clam, and he didn't cook a clam
+so that it tasted like O'Somebody's Heels of New Rubber either. From
+the Indian we got the original idea of the shore dinner and the
+barbecue, the planked shad and the hoecake. By following in his
+footsteps we learned about succotash and hominy. He conferred upon us
+the inestimable boon of his maize--hence corn bread, corn fritters,
+fried corn and roasting ears; also his pumpkin and his sweet
+potato--hence the pumpkin pie of the North and its blood brother of the
+South, the sweet-potato pie. From the Indian we got the tomato--let some
+agriculturist correct me if I err--though the oldest inhabitant can
+still remember when we called it a love apple and regarded it as
+poisonous. From him we inherited the crook-neck squash and the okra
+gumbo and the rattlesnake watermelon and the wild goose plum, and many
+another delectable thing.
+
+So, out of all this and from all this our ancestors evolved cults of
+cookery which, though they differed perhaps as between themselves, were
+all purely American and all absolutely unapproachable. France lent a
+strain to New Orleans cooking and Spain did the same for California.
+Scrapple was Pennsylvania's, terrapin was Maryland's, the baked bean
+was Massachusetts', and along with a few other things spoon-bread ranked
+as Kentucky's fairest product. Indiana had dishes of which Texas wotted
+not, nor kilowatted either, this being before the day of electrical
+cooking contrivances. Virginia, mother of presidents and of natural-born
+cooks, could give and take cookery notions from Vermont. Likewise, this
+condition developed the greatest collection of cooks, white and black
+alike, that the world has ever seen. They were inspired cooks, needing
+no notes, no printed score to guide them. They could burn up all the
+cook-books that ever were printed and still cook. They cooked by ear.
+
+And perhaps they still do. If so, may Heaven bless and preserve them!
+Some carping critics may contend that our grandfathers and grandmothers
+lacked the proper knowledge of how to serve a meal in courses. Let 'em.
+Let 'em carp until they're as black in the face as a German carp. For
+real food never yet needed any vain pomp and circumstance to make it
+attractive. It stands on its own merits, not on the scenic effects.
+When you really have something to eat you don't need to worry trying to
+think up the French for napkin. Perhaps there may be some among us here
+on this continent who, on beholding a finger-bowl for the first time,
+glanced down into its pellucid depths and wondered what had become of
+the gold fish. There may have been a few who needed a laprobe drawn up
+well over the chest when eating grapefruit for the first time. Indeed,
+there may have been a few even whose execution in regard to consuming
+soup out of the side of the spoon was a thing calculated to remind you
+of a bass tuba player emptying his instrument at the end of a hard
+street parade.
+
+But I doubt it. These stories were probably the creations of the
+professional humorists in the first place. Those who are given real food
+to eat may generally be depended upon to do the eating without undue
+noise or excitement. The gross person featured in the comic papers, who
+consumes his food with such careless abandon that it is hard to tell
+whether the front of his vest was originally drygoods or groceries,
+either doesn't exist in real life or else never had any food that was
+worth eating, and it didn't make any difference whether he put it on the
+inside of his chest or the outside.
+
+Only a short time ago I saw a whole turkey served for a Thanksgiving
+feast at a large restaurant. It vaunted itself as a regular turkey and
+was extensively charged for as such on the bill. It wasn't though. It
+was an ancient and a shabby ruin--a genuine antique if ever there was
+one, with those high-polished knobs all down the front, like an
+old-fashioned highboy, and Chippendale legs. To make up for its manifold
+imperfections the chef back in the kitchen had crowded it full of
+mysterious laboratory products and then varnished it over with a
+waterproof glaze or shellac, which rendered it durable without making it
+edible. Just to see that turkey was a thing calculated to set the mind
+harking backward to places and times when there had been real turkeys to
+eat.
+
+Back yonder in the old days we were a simple and a husky race, weren't
+we? Boys and girls were often fourteen years old before they knew
+oysters didn't grow in a can. Even grown people knew nothing, except by
+vague hearsay, of cheese so runny that if you didn't care to eat it you
+could drink it. There was one traveled person then living who was
+reputed to have once gone up to the North somewhere and partaken of a
+watermelon that had had a plug cut in it and a whole quart of imported
+real Paris--France--champagne wine poured in the plugged place. This,
+however, was generally regarded as a gross exaggeration of the real
+facts.
+
+But there was a kind of a turkey that they used to serve in those parts
+on high state occasions. It was a turkey that in his younger days ranged
+wild in the woods and ate the mast. At the frosted coming of the fall
+they penned him up and fed him grain to put an edge of fat on his lean;
+and then fate descended upon him and he died the ordained death of his
+kind. But, oh! the glorious resurrection when he reached the table! You
+sat with weapons poised and ready--a knife in the right hand, a fork in
+the left and a spoon handy--and looked upon him and watered at the mouth
+until you had riparian rights.
+
+His breast had the vast brown fullness that you see in pictures of old
+Flemish friars. His legs were like rounded columns and unadorned,
+moreover, with those superfluous paper frills; and his tail was half as
+big as your hand and it protruded grandly, like the rudder of a
+treasure-ship, and had flanges of sizzled richness on it. Here was no
+pindling fowl that had taken the veil and lived the cloistered life;
+here was no wiredrawn and trained-down cross-country turkey, but a lusty
+giant of a bird that would have been a cassowary, probably, or an emu,
+if he had lived, his bosom a white mountain of lusciousness, his
+interior a Golconda and not a Golgotha. At the touch of the steel his
+skin crinkled delicately and fell away; his tissues flaked off in tender
+strips; and from him arose a bouquet of smells more varied and more
+delectable than anything ever turned out by the justly celebrated
+Islands of Spice. It was a sin to cut him up and a crime to leave him
+be.
+
+He had not been stuffed by a taxidermist or a curio collector, but by
+the master hand of one of those natural-born home cooks--stuffed with
+corn bread dressing that had oysters or chestnuts or pecans stirred into
+it until it was a veritable mine of goodness, and this stuffing had
+caught up and retained all the delectable drippings and essences of his
+being, and his flesh had the savor of the things upon which he had
+lived--the sweet acorns and beechnuts of the woods, the buttery goobers
+of the plowed furrows, the shattered corn of the horse yard.
+
+Nor was he a turkey to be eaten by the mere slice. At least, nobody ever
+did eat him that way--you ate him by rods, poles and perches, by
+townships and by sections--ate him from his neck to his hocks and back
+again, from his throat latch to his crupper, from center to
+circumference, and from pit to dome, finding something better all the
+time; and when his frame was mainly denuded and loomed upon the platter
+like a scaffolding, you dug into his cadaver and found there small
+hidden joys and titbits. You ate until the pressure of your waistband
+stopped your watch and your vest flew open like an engine-house door and
+your stomach was pushing you over on your back and sitting upon you, and
+then you half closed your eyes and dreamed of cold-sliced turkey for
+supper, turkey hash for breakfast the next morning and turkey soup made
+of the bones of his carcass later on. For each state of that turkey
+would be greater than the last.
+
+There still must be such turkeys as this one somewhere. Somewhere in
+this broad and favored land, untainted by notions of foreign cookery and
+unvisited by New York and Philadelphia people who insist on calling the
+waiter _garcon_, when his name is Gabe or Roscoe, there must be spots
+where a turkey is a turkey and not a cold-storage corpse. And this being
+the case, why don't those places advertise, so that by the hundreds and
+the thousands men who live in hotels might come from all over in the
+fall of the year and just naturally eat themselves to death?
+
+Perchance also the sucking pig of the good old days still prevails in
+certain sheltered vales and glades. He, too, used to have his vogue at
+holiday times. Because the gods did love him he died young--died young
+and tender and unspoiled by the world--and then everybody else did love
+him too. For he was barbered twice over and shampooed to a gracious
+pinkiness by a skilled hand, and then, being basted, he was roasted
+whole with a smile on his lips and an apple in his mouth, and sometimes
+a bow of red ribbon on his tail, and his juices from within ran down his
+smooth flanks and burnished him to perfection. His interior was crammed
+with stuff and things and truck and articles of that general nature--I'm
+no cooking expert to go into further particulars, but whatever the
+stuffing was, it was appropriate and timely and suitable, I know that,
+and there was onion in it and savory herbs, and it was exactly what a
+sucking pig needed to bring out all that was good and noble in him.
+
+You began operations by taking a man's-size slice out of his midriff,
+bringing with it a couple of pinky little rib bones, and then you ate
+your way through him and along him in either direction or both
+directions until you came out into the open and fell back satiated and
+filled with the sheer joy of living, and greased to the eyebrows. I
+should like to ask at this time if there is any section where this brand
+of sucking pig remains reasonably common and readily available? In these
+days of light housekeeping and kitchenettes and gas stoves and electric
+cookers, is there any oven big enough to contain him? Does he still
+linger on or is he now known in his true perfection only on the magazine
+covers and in the Christmas stories?
+
+[Illustration: "THOSE WHO IN THE GOODNESS OF THEIR HEARTS MAY UNDERTAKE
+A SEARCH FOR THE SUCKING PIG"]
+
+As a further guide to those who in the goodness of their hearts may
+undertake a search for him in his remaining haunts and refuges, it
+should be stated that he was no German wild boar, or English pork pie on
+the hoof, and that he was never cooked French style, or doctored up with
+anchovies, caviar, _marrons glaces_, pickled capers out of a
+bottle--where many of the best capers of the pickled variety come
+from--imported truffles, Mexican tamales or Hawaiian poi. He was--and
+is, if he still exists--just a plain little North American baby-shoat
+cooked whole. And don't forget the red apple in his mouth. None genuine
+without this trademark.
+
+But, shucks! what's the use of talking that way? Patriotism is not dead
+and a democratic form of government still endures, and surely real
+sucking pigs are still being cooked and served whole somewhere this very
+day. And in that same neighborhood, if it lies to the eastward, there
+are cooks who know the art of planking a shad in season--not the
+arrangement of the effete East, consisting of a greased skin wrapped
+round a fine-tooth comb and reposing on a charred clapboard--but a real
+shad; and if it lies to the southward one will surely find in the same
+vicinity a possum of a prevalent dark brown tint, with sweet potatoes
+baked under him and a certain inimitable, indescribable dark rich gravy
+surrounding him, and on the side corn pones--without any sugar in them.
+I think probably the reason why the possum doesn't flourish in the North
+is that they insist on tacking an O on to his name, simply because some
+misguided writer of dictionaries ordained it so. A possum is not Irish,
+nor is he Scotch. His name is not Opossum, neither is it MacPossum. He
+belongs to an old Southern family and his name is just possum.
+
+Once I saw ostensible 'possum at a French restaurant in New York. It was
+advertised as _Opossum, Southern style_, and it was chopped up fine and
+cooked in a sort of casserole effect, with green peas and carrots and
+various other things mixed in along with it. The quivering sensations
+which were felt throughout the South on this occasion, and which at the
+time were mistaken for earthquake tremors, were really caused by so many
+Southern cooks turning over petulantly in their graves.
+
+Still going on the assumption that the turkey and the sucking pig and
+their kindred spirits are yet to be found among us or among some of us,
+anyhow, it is only logical to assume that the food is not served in
+courses at the ratio of a little of everything and not enough of
+anything, but that it is brought on and spread before the company all
+together and at once--the turkey or the pig or the ham or the chickens;
+the mashed potatoes overflowing their receptacle like drifted snow; the
+celery; the scalloped oysters in a dish like a crock; the jelly layer
+cake, the fruit cake and Prince of Wales cake; and in addition,
+scattered about hither and yon, all the different kinds of
+preserves--pusserves, to use the proper title--including sweet peach
+pickles dimpled with cloves and melting away in their own sweetness, and
+watermelon-rind pickles cut into cubes just big enough to make one
+bite--that is to say in cubes about three inches square--and the various
+kinds of jellies--crab-apple, currant, grape and quince--quivering in an
+ecstacy as though at their very goodness, and casting upon the white
+cloth where the light catches them all the reflected, dancing tints of
+beryl and amethyst, ruby and garnet--crown-jewels in the diadem of real
+food.
+
+People who eat dinners like this must, by the very nature of things,
+cling also to the ancient North American custom of starting the day with
+an amount of regular food called collectively a breakfast. This, of
+course, does not mean what the dweller in the city by the seaboard calls
+a breakfast, he knowing no better, poor wretch--a swallow of tea, a bite
+of a cold baker's roll, a plate of gruel mayhap, or pap, and a sticky
+spoonful of the national marmalade of Perfidious Albumen, as the poet
+has called it, followed by a slap at the lower part of the face with a
+napkin and a series of V-shaped hiccoughs ensuing all the morning. No,
+indeed.
+
+In speaking thus of breakfast, I mean a real breakfast. If it's in New
+England there'll be doughnuts and pies on the table, and not those
+sickly convict labor pies of the city either, with the prison pallor yet
+upon them, but brown, crusty, full-chested pies. And if it's down South
+there will be hot waffles and fresh New Orleans molasses; and if it's in
+any section of our country, north or south, east or west, such comfits
+and kickshaws as genuine country smoked sausage, put up in bags and
+spiced like Araby the Blest, and fresh eggs fried in pairs--never less
+than in pairs--with their lovely orbed yolks turned heavenward like
+the topaz eyes of beauteous prayerful blondes; and slices of home-cured
+ham with the taste of the hickory smoke and also of the original hog
+delicately blended in them, and marbled with fat and lean, like the
+edges of law books; and cornbeef hash, and flaky hot biscuits; and an
+assortment of those same pickles and preserves already mentioned; the
+whole being calculated to make a hungry man open his mouth until his
+face resembles the general-delivery window at the post-office--and sail
+right in.
+
+[Illustration: "WHERE DO YOU FIND THE PERCENTAGE OF DYSPEPTICS RUNNING
+HIGHEST?"]
+
+The cry has been raised that American cooking is responsible for
+American dyspepsia, and that as a race we are given to pouring pepsin
+pellets down ourselves because of the food our ancestors poured down
+themselves. This is a base calumny. Old John J. Calumny himself never
+coined a baser one. You have only to look about you to know the truth of
+the situation, which is, that the person with the least digestion is the
+one who always does the most for it, and that those who eat the most
+have the least trouble. Where do you find the percentage of dyspeptics
+running highest, in the country or the city? Where do you find the
+stout woman who is banting as she pants and panting as she bants? Again,
+the city. Where do you encounter the unhappy male creature who has been
+told that the only cure for his dyspepsia is to be a Rebecca at the Well
+and drink a gallon of water before each meal and then go without the
+meal, thus compelling him to double in both roles and first be Rebecca
+and then be the Well? Where do you see so many of those miserable ones
+who have the feeling, after eating, that rude hands are tearing the
+tapestries of the walls of their respective dining rooms?
+
+Not in the country, where, happily, food is perhaps yet food. In the
+city, that's where--in the cities, where they have learned to cook food
+and to serve it and to eat it after a fashion different from the
+fashions their grandsires followed.
+
+That's a noble slogan which has lately been promulgated--See America
+First. But while we're doing so wouldn't it be a fine idea to try to see
+some American cooking?
+
+
+
+
+_MUSIC_
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+If you, the reader, are anything like me, the writer, it happens to you
+about every once in so long that some well-meaning but semi-witted
+friend rigs a dead-fall for you, and traps you and carries you off, a
+helpless captive, for an evening among the real music-lovers.
+
+Catching you, so to speak, with your defense leveled and your
+breastworks unmanned, he speaks to you substantially as follows: "Old
+man, we're going to have a few people up to the house tonight--just a
+little informal affair, you understand, with a song or two and some
+music--and the missus and I would appreciate it mightily if you'd put on
+your Young Prince Charmings and drop in on us along toward eight. How
+about it--can we count on you to be among those prominently present?"
+
+Forewarned is forearmed, and you know all about this person already. You
+know him to be one of the elect in the most exclusive musical coterie of
+your fair city, wherever your fair city may be. You know him to be on
+terms of the utmost intimacy with the works of all the great composers.
+Bill Opus and Jeremiah Fugue have no secrets from him--none
+whatever--and in conversation he creates the impression that old Issy
+Sonata was his first cousin. He can tell you offhand which one of the
+Shuberts--Lee or Jake--wrote that Serenade. He speaks of Mozart and
+Beethoven in such a way a stranger would probably get the idea that Mote
+and Bate used to work for his folks. He can go to a musical show, and
+while the performance is going on he can tell everybody in his section
+just which composer each song number was stolen from, humming the
+original air aloud to show the points of resemblance. He can do this, I
+say, and, what is more, he does do it. At the table d'hote place, when
+the Neapolitan troubadours come out in their little green jackets and
+their wide red sashes he is right there at the middle table, poised and
+waiting; and when they put their heads together and lean in toward the
+center and sing their national air, Come Into the Garlic, Maud, it is he
+who beats time for them with his handy lead-pencil, only pausing
+occasionally to point out errors in technic and execution on the part of
+the performers. He is that kind of a pest, and you know it.
+
+What you should do under these circumstances, after he has invited you
+to come up to his house, would be to look him straight in the eye and
+say to him: "Well, old chap, that's awfully kind of you to include me in
+your little musical party, and just to show you how much I appreciate it
+and how I feel about it here's something for you." And then hit him
+right where his hair parts with a cut-glass paperweight or a bronze
+clock or a fire-ax or something, after which you should leap madly upon
+his prostrate form and dance on his cozy corner with both feet and cave
+in his inglenook for him. That is what you should do, but, being a
+vacillating person--I am still assuming, you see, that you are
+constituted as I am--you weakly surrender and accept the invitation and
+promise to be there promptly on time, and he goes away to snare more
+victims in order to have enough to make a mess.
+
+And so it befalls at the appointed time that you deck your form in your
+after-six-P. M. clothes and go up. On the way you get full and fuller of
+dark forebodings at every step; and your worst expectations are realized
+as soon as you enter and are relieved of your hat by a colored person in
+white gloves, and behold spread before you a great horde of those ladies
+and gentlemen whose rapt expressions and general air of eager expectancy
+stamp them as true devotees of whatever is most classical in the realm
+of music. You realize that in such a company as this you are no better
+than a rank outsider, and that it behooves you to attract as little
+attention as possible. There is nobody else here who will be interested
+in discussing with you whether the Giants or the Cubs will finish first
+next season; nobody except you who cares a whoop how Indiana will go for
+president--in fact, most of them probably haven't heard that Indiana
+was thinking of going. Their souls are soaring among the stars in a
+rarefied atmosphere of culture, and even if you could you wouldn't dare
+venture up that far with yours, for fear of being seized by an
+uncontrollable impulse to leap off and end all, the same as some persons
+are affected when on the roof of a tall building. So you back into the
+nearest corner and try to look like a part of the furniture--and wait in
+dumb misery.
+
+Usually you don't have to wait very long. These people are beggars for
+punishment and like to start early. It is customary to lead off the
+program with a selection on the piano by a distinguished lady graduate
+of somebody-with-an-Italian-name's school of piano expression. Under no
+circumstances is it expected that this lady will play anything that you
+can understand or that I could understand. It would be contrary to the
+ethics of her calling and deeply repugnant to her artistic temperament
+to play a tune that would sound well on a phonograph record. This would
+never do. She comes forward, stripped for battle, and bows and peels
+off her gloves and fiddles with the piano-stool until she gets it
+adjusted to suit her, and then she sits down, prepared to render an
+immortal work composed by one of the old masters who was intoxicated at
+the time.
+
+She starts gently. She throws her head far back and closes her eyes
+dreamily, and hits the keys a soft, dainty little lick--tippy-tap! Then
+leaving a call with the night clerk for eight o'clock in the morning,
+she seems to drift off into a peaceful slumber, but awakens on the
+moment and hurrying all the way up to the other end of Main Street she
+slams the bass keys a couple of hard blows--bumetty-bum! And so it goes
+for quite a long spell after that: Tippy-tap!--off to the country for a
+week-end party, Friday to Monday; bumetty-bum!--six months elapse
+between the third and fourth acts; tippetty-tip!--two years later; dear
+me, how the old place has changed! Biffetty-biff! Gracious, how time
+flies, for here it is summer again and the flowers are all in bloom! You
+sink farther and farther into your chair and debate with yourself
+whether you ought to run like a coward or stay and die like a hero. One
+of your legs goes to sleep and the rest of you envies the leg. You can
+feel your whiskers growing, and you begin to itch in two hundred
+separate places, but can't scratch.
+
+The strangest thing about it is that those round you appear to be
+enjoying it. Incredible though it seems, they are apparently finding
+pleasure in this. You can tell that they are enjoying themselves because
+they begin to act as real music-lovers always act under such
+circumstances--some put their heads on one side and wall up their eyes
+in a kind of dying-calf attitude and listen so hard you can hear them
+listening, and some bend over toward their nearest neighbors and murmur
+their rapture. It is all right for them to murmur, but if you so much as
+scrooge your feet, or utter a low, despairing moan or anything, they all
+turn and glare at you reproachfully and go "Sh!" like a collection of
+steam-heating fixtures. Depend on them to keep you in your place!
+
+[Illustration: "SHE TRIES TO TEAR ALL ITS FRONT TEETH OUT WITH HER BARE
+HANDS"]
+
+All of a sudden the lady operator comes out of her trance. She comes out
+of it with a violent start, as though she had just been bee-stung. She
+now cuts loose, regardless of the piano's intrinsic value and its
+associations to its owners. She skitters her flying fingers up and down
+the instrument from one end to the other, producing a sound like
+hailstones falling on a tin roof. She grabs the helpless thing by its
+upper lip and tries to tear all its front teeth out with her bare hands.
+She fails in this, and then she goes mad from disappointment and in a
+frenzy resorts to her fists.
+
+As nearly as you are able to gather, a terrific fire has broken out in
+one of the most congested tenement districts. You can hear the engines
+coming and the hook-and-ladder trucks clattering over the cobbles.
+Ambulances come, too, clanging their gongs, and one of them runs over a
+dog; and a wall falls, burying several victims in the ruin. At this
+juncture persons begin jumping out of the top-floor windows, holding
+cooking stoves in their arms, and a team runs away and plunges through a
+plate-glass window into a tinware and crockery store. People are all
+running round and shrieking, and the dog that was run over is still
+yelping--he wasn't killed outright evidently, but only crippled--and
+several tons of dynamite explode in a basement.
+
+As the crashing reverberations die away the lady arises, wan but game,
+and bows low in response to the applause and backs away, leaving the
+wreck of the piano jammed back on its haunches and trembling like a leaf
+in every limb.
+
+All to yourself, off in your little corner, you are thinking that surely
+this has been suffering and disaster enough for one evening and
+everybody will be willing to go away and seek a place of quiet. But no.
+In its demand for fresh horrors this crowd is as insatiate as the
+ancient Romans used to be when Nero was giving one of those benefits at
+the Colosseum for the fire sufferers of his home city. There now
+advances to the platform a somber person of a bass aspect, he having a
+double-yolk face and a three-ply chin and a chest like two or three
+chests.
+
+[Illustration: "RO-HOCKED IN THE CRA-HADLE OF THE DA-HEEP I LA-HAY ME
+DOWN IN PE-HEACE TO SA-LEEP!"]
+
+You know in advance what the big-mouthed black bass is going to
+sing--there is only one regular song for a bass singer to sing. From
+time to time insidious efforts have been made to work in songs for
+basses dealing with the love affairs of Bedouins and the joys of life
+down in a coal mine; but after all, to a bass singer who really values
+his gift of song and wishes to make the most of it, there is but one
+suitable selection, beginning as follows:
+
+ _Ro-hocked in the cra-hadle of the da-heep,
+ I la-hay me down in pe-heace to sa-leep!
+ Collum and pa-heaceful be my sa-leep
+ Ro-hocked in the cra-hadle of the da-heep!_
+
+[Illustration: "SHEM UNDOUBTEDLY SANG IT WHEN THE ANIMALS WERE HUNGRY"]
+
+That is the orthodox offering for a bass. The basses of the world have
+always used it, I believe, and generally to advantage. From what I have
+been able to ascertain I judge that it was first written for use on the
+Ark. Shem sang it probably. If there is anything in this doctrine of
+heredity Ham specialized in banjo solos and soft-shoe dancing, and
+Japhet, I take it, was the tenor--he certainly had a tenor-sounding kind
+of a name. So it must have been Shem, and undoubtedly he sang it when
+the animals were hungry, so as to drown out the sounds of their
+roaring.
+
+So this, his descendant--this chip off the old cheese, as it
+were--stands up on the platform facing you, with his chest well extended
+to show his red suspender straps peeping coyly out from the arm openings
+of his vest, and he inserts one hand into his bosom, and over and over
+again he tells you that he now contemplates laying himself down in peace
+to sleep--which is more than anybody else on the block will be able to
+do; and he rocks you in the cradle of the deep until you are as seasick
+as a cow. You could stand that, maybe, if only he wouldn't make faces at
+you while he sings. Some day I am going to take the time off to make
+scientific research and ascertain why all bass singers make faces when
+they are singing. Surely there's some psychological reason for this, and
+if there isn't it should be stopped by legislative enactment.
+
+When Sing-Bad the Sailor has quit rocking the boat and gone ashore, a
+female singer generally obliges and comes off the nest after a merry
+lay, cackling her triumph. Then there is something more of a difficult
+and painful nature on the piano; and nearly always, too, there is a
+large lady wearing a low-vamp gown on a high-arch form, who in
+flute-like notes renders one of those French ballads that's full of
+la-las and is supposed to be devilish and naughty because nobody can
+understand it. For the finish, some person addicted to elocution usually
+recites a poem to piano accompaniment. The poem Robert of Sicily is much
+used for these purposes, and whenever I hear it Robert invariably has my
+deepest sympathy and so has Sicily. Toward midnight a cold collation is
+served, and you recapture your hat and escape forth into the starry
+night, swearing to yourself that never again will you permit yourself to
+be lured into an orgy of the true believers.
+
+But the next time an invitation comes along you will fall again. Anyhow
+that's what I always do, meanwhile raging inwardly and cursing myself
+for a weak and spineless creature, who doesn't know when he's well off.
+Yet I would not be regarded as one who is insensible to the charms of
+music. In its place I like music, if it's the kind of music I like.
+These times, when so much of our music is punched out for us by
+machinery like buttonholes and the air vents in Swiss cheese, and then
+is put up in cans for the trade like Boston beans and baking-powder,
+nothing gives me more pleasure than to drop a nickel in the slot and
+hear an inspiring selection by the author of Alexander's Ragtime Band.
+
+I am also partial to band music. When John Philip Sousa comes to town
+you can find me down in the very front row. I appreciate John Philip
+Sousa when he faces me and shows me that breast full of medals extending
+from the whiskerline to the beltline, and I appreciate him still more
+when he turns round and gives me a look at that back of his. Since
+Colonel W. F. Cody practically retired and Miss Mary Garden went away to
+Europe, I know of no public back which for inherent grace and poetry of
+spinal motion can quite compare with Mr. Sousa's.
+
+I am in my element then. I do not care so very much for Home, Sweet
+Home, as rendered with so many variations that it's almost impossible
+to recognize the old place any more; but when they switch to a march, a
+regular Sousa march full of um-pahs, then I begin to spread myself. A
+little tingle of anticipatory joy runs through me as Mr. Sousa advances
+to the footlights and first waves his baton at the great big German who
+plays the little shiny thing that looks like a hypodermic and sounds
+like stepping on the cat, and then turns the other way and waves it at
+the little bit of a German who plays the big thing that looks like a
+ventilator off an ocean liner and sounds like feeding-time at the zoo.
+And then he makes the invitation general and calls up the brasses and
+the drums and the woods and the woodwinds, and also the thunders and the
+lightnings and the cyclones and the earthquakes.
+
+[Illustration: "AND I ENJOY IT MORE THAN WORDS CAN TELL!"]
+
+And three or four of the trombonists pull the slides away out and let go
+full steam right in my face, with a blast that blows my hair out by the
+roots, and all hands join in and make so much noise that you can't hear
+the music. And I enjoy it more than words can tell!
+
+On the other hand, grand opera does not appeal to me. I can enthuse over
+the robin's song in the spring, and the sound of the summer wind
+rippling through the ripened wheat is not without its attractions for
+me; but when I hear people going into convulsions of joy over Signor
+Massacre's immortal opera of Medulla Oblongata I feel that I am out of
+my element and I start back-pedaling. Lucy D. Lammermore may have been a
+lovely person, but to hear a lot of foreigners singing about her for
+three hours on a stretch does not appeal to me. I have a better use for
+my little two dollars. For that amount I can go to a good minstrel show
+and sit in a box.
+
+You may recall when Strauss' Elektra was creating such a furor in this
+country a couple of years ago. All the people you met were talking about
+it whether they knew anything about it or not, as generally they didn't.
+I caught the disease myself; I went to hear it sung.
+
+I only lasted a little while--I confess it unabashedly--if there is such
+a word as unabashedly--and if there isn't then I confess it
+unashamedly. As well as a mere layman could gather from the opening
+proceedings, this opera of Elektra was what the life story of the Bender
+family of Kansas would be if set to music by Fire-Chief Croker. In the
+quieter moments of the action, when nobody was being put out of the way,
+half of the chorus assembled on one side of the stage and imitated the
+last ravings of John McCullough, and the other half went over on the
+other side of the stage and clubbed in and imitated Wallace, the
+Untamable Lion, while the orchestra, to show its impartiality, imitated
+something else--Old Home Week in a boiler factory, I think. It moved me
+strangely--strangely and also rapidly.
+
+Taking advantage of one of these periods of comparative calm I arose and
+softly stole away. I put a dummy in my place to deceive the turnkeys and
+I found a door providentially unlocked and I escaped out into the night.
+Three or four thousand automobiles were charging up and down Broadway,
+and there was a fire going on a couple of blocks up the street, and I
+think a suffragette procession was passing, too; but after what I'd
+just been through the quiet was very soothing to my eardrums. I don't
+know when I've enjoyed anything more than the last part of Elektra, that
+I didn't hear.
+
+Yet my reader should not argue from this admission that I am deaf to the
+charms of the human voice when raised in song. Unnaturalized aliens of a
+beefy aspect vocalizing in a strange tongue while an orchestra of two
+hundreds pieces performs--that, I admit, is not for me. But just let a
+pretty girl in a white dress with a flower in her hair come out on a
+stage, and let her have nice clear eyes and a big wholesome-looking
+mouth, and let her open that mouth and show a double row of white teeth
+that'd remind you of the first roasting ear of the season--just let her
+be all that and do all that, and then let her look right at me and sing
+The Last Rose of Summer or Annie Laurie or Believe Me, If All Those
+Endearing Young Charms--and I am hers to command, world without end,
+forever and ever, amen! My eyes cloud up for a rainy spell, and in my
+throat there comes a lump so big I feel like a coach-whip snake that has
+inadvertently swallowed a china darning-egg. And when she is through I
+am the person sitting in the second row down front who applauds until
+the flooring gives way and the plastering is jarred loose on the next
+floor. She can sing for me by the hour and I'll sit there by the hour
+and listen to her, and forget that there ever was such a person in the
+whole world as the late Vogner! That's the kind of a music-lover I am,
+and I suspect, if the truth were known, there are a whole lot more just
+like me.
+
+If I may be excused for getting sort of personal and reminiscent at this
+point I should like to make brief mention here of the finest music I
+ever heard. As it happened this was instrumental music. I had come to
+New York with a view to revolutionizing metropolitan journalism, and
+journalism had shown a reluctance amounting to positive diffidence about
+coming forward and being revolutionized. Pending the time when it should
+see fit to do so, I was stopping at a boarding house on West
+Fifty-Seventh Street. It has been my observation that practically
+everybody who comes to New York stops for a while in a boarding house on
+West Fifty-Seventh Street.
+
+West Fifty-Seventh Street was where I was established, in a hall bedroom
+on the top floor--a hall bedroom so form-fitting and cozy that when I
+went to bed I always opened the transom to prevent a feeling of
+closeness across the chest. If I had as many as three callers in my room
+of an evening and one of them got up to go first, the others had to sit
+quietly while he was picking out his own legs. But up to the time I
+speak of I hadn't had any callers. I hadn't been there very long and I
+hadn't met any of the other boarders socially, except at the table. I
+had only what you might call a feeding acquaintance with them.
+
+Christmas Eve came round. I was a thousand miles from home and felt a
+million. I shouldn't be surprised if I was a little bit homesick. Anyhow
+it was Christmas Eve, and it was snowing outside according to the
+orthodox Christmas Eve formula, and upward of five million other people
+in New York were getting ready for Christmas without my company,
+co-operation or assistance. You'd be surprised to know how lonesome you
+can feel in the midst of five million people--until you try it on a
+Christmas Eve.
+
+After dinner I went up to my room and sat down with my back against the
+door and my feet on the window-ledge, and I rested one elbow in the
+washpitcher and put one knee on the mantel and tried to read the
+newspapers. The first thing I struck was a Christmas poem, a sentimental
+Christmas poem, full of allusions to the family circle, and the old
+homestead, and the stockings hanging by the fireplace, and all that sort
+of thing.
+
+That was enough. I put on my hat and overcoat and went down into the
+street. The snow was coming down in long, slanting lines and the
+sidewalks were all white, and where the lamplight shone on them they
+looked like the frosting on birthday cakes. People laden with bundles
+were diving in and out of all the shops. Every other shop window had a
+holly wreath hung in it, and when the doors were opened those spicy
+Christmassy smells of green hemlock and pine came gushing out in my
+face.
+
+So far as I could tell, everybody in New York--except me--was buying
+something for his or her or some other body's Christmas. It was a
+tolerably lonesome sensation. I walked two blocks, loitering sometimes
+in front of a store. Nobody spoke to me except a policeman. He told me
+to keep moving. Finally I went into a little family liquor store.
+Strangely enough, considering the season, there was nobody there except
+the proprietor. He was reading a German newspaper behind the bar. I
+conferred with him concerning the advisability of an egg-nog. He had
+never heard of such a thing as an egg-nog. I mentioned two old friends
+of mine, named Tom and Jerry, respectively, and he didn't know them
+either. So I compromised on a hot lemon toddy. The lemon was one that
+had grown up with him in the liquor business, I think, and it wasn't
+what you would call a spectacular success as a hot toddy; but it was
+warming, anyhow, and that helped. I expanded a trifle. I asked him
+whether he wouldn't take something on me.
+
+He took a small glass of beer! He was a foreigner and he probably knew
+no better, so I suppose I shouldn't have judged him too harshly. But it
+was Christmas Eve and snowing outside--and he took a small beer!
+
+I paid him and came away. I went back to my hall bedroom up on the top
+floor and sat down at the window with my face against the pane, like
+Little Maggie in the poem.
+
+By now the pavements were two inches deep in whiteness and in the circle
+of light around an electric lamp up at the corner of Ninth Avenue I
+could see, dimly, the thick, whirling white flakes chasing one another
+about madly, playing a Christmas game of their own. Across the way
+foot-passengers were still passing in a straggly stream. I heard the
+flat clatter of feet upon the stairs outside, heard someone wish
+somebody else a Merry Christmas, and heard the other person grunt in a
+non-committal sort of way. There was the sound of a hall door slamming
+somewhere on my floor. After that there was silence--the kind of
+silence that you can break off in chunks and taste.
+
+It continued to snow. I reckon I must have sat there an hour or more.
+
+Down in the street four stories below I heard something--music. I raised
+the sash and looked out. An Italian had halted in front of the boarding
+house with a grind organ and he was turning the crank and the thing was
+playing. It wasn't much of a grind organ as grind organs go. I judge it
+must have been the original grind organ that played with Booth and
+Barrett. It had lost a lot of its most important works, and it had the
+asthma and the heaves and one thing and another the matter with it.
+
+But the tune it was playing was My Old Kentucky Home--and Kentucky was
+where I'd come from. The Italian played it through twice, once on his
+own hook and once because I went downstairs and divided my money with
+him.
+
+I regard that as the finest music I ever heard.
+
+As I was saying before, the classical stuff may do for those who like
+it well enough to stand it, but the domestic article suits me. I like
+the kind of beer that this man Bach turned out in the spring of the
+year, but I don't seem to be able to care much for his music. And so far
+as Chopin is concerned, I hope you'll all do your Christmas Chopin
+early.
+
+
+
+
+_ART_
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+In art as in music I am one who is very easily satisfied. All I ask of a
+picture is that it shall look like something, and all I expect of music
+is that it shall sound like something.
+
+In this attitude I feel confident that I am one of a group of about
+seventy million people in this country, more or less, but only a few of
+us, a very heroic few of us, have the nerve to come right out and take a
+firm position and publicly express our true sentiments on these
+important subjects. Some are under the dominion of strong-minded
+wives. Some hesitate to reveal their true artistic leanings for fear of
+being called low-browed vulgarians. Some are plastic posers and so
+pretend to be something they are not to win the approval of the
+ultra-intellectuals. There are only a handful of us who are ready and
+willing to go on record as saying where we stand.
+
+[Illustration: "WE LOOKED IN VAIN FOR THE KIND OF PICTURES THAT MOTHER
+USED TO MAKE AND FATHER USED TO BUY"]
+
+It is because of this cowardice on the part of the great silent majority
+that every year sees us backed farther and farther into a corner. We
+walk through miles and miles of galleries, or else we are led through
+them by our wives and our friends, and we look in vain for the kind of
+pictures that mother used to make and father used to buy. What do we
+find? Once in a while we behold a picture of something that we can
+recognize without a chart, and it looms before our gladdened vision like
+a rock-and-rye in a weary land. But that is not apt to happen often--not
+in a 1912-model gallery. In such an establishment one is likely to meet
+only Old Masters and Young Messers. If it's an Old Master we probably
+behold a Flemish saint or a German saint or an Italian saint--depending
+on whether the artist was Flemish or German or Italian--depicted as
+being shot full of arrows and enjoying same to the uttermost. If it is a
+Young Messer the canvas probably presents to us a view of a poached egg
+apparently bursting into a Welsh rarebit. At least that is what it
+looks like to us--a golden buck, forty cents at any good restaurant--in
+the act of undergoing spontaneous combustion. But we are informed that
+this is an impressionistic interpretation of a sunset at sea, and we are
+expected to stand before it and carry on regardless.
+
+But I for one must positively decline to carry on. This sort of thing
+does not appeal to me. I don't want to have to consult the official
+catalogue in order to ascertain for sure whether this year's prize
+picture is a quick lunch or an Italian gloaming. I'm very peculiar that
+way. I like to be able to tell what a picture aims to represent just by
+looking at it. I presume this is the result of my early training. I date
+back to the Rutherford B. Hayes School of Interior Decorating. In a
+considerable degree I am still wedded to my early ideals. I distinctly
+recall the time when upon the walls of every wealthy home of America
+there hung, among other things, two staple oil paintings--a still-life
+for the dining room, showing a dead fish on a plate, and a pastoral for
+the parlor, showing a collection of cows drinking out of a purling
+brook. A dead fish with a glazed eye and a cold clammy fin was not a
+thing you would care to have around the house for any considerable
+period of time, except in a picture, and the same was true of cows.
+People who could not abide the idea of a cow in the kitchen gladly
+welcomed one into the parlor when painted in connection with the above
+purling brook and several shade trees.
+
+Those who could not afford oil paintings went in for steel engravings
+and chromos--good reliable brands, such as the steel engraving of Henry
+Clay's Farewell to the American Senate and the Teaching Baby to Waltz
+art chromo. War pictures were also very popular back in that period. If
+it were a Northern household you could be pretty sure of seeing a work
+entitled Gettysburg, showing three Union soldiers, two plain and one
+colored, in the act of repulsing Pickett's charge. If it were a Southern
+household there would be one that had been sold on subscription by a
+strictly non-partisan publishing house in Charleston, South Carolina,
+and guaranteed to be historically correct in all particulars,
+representing Robert E. Lee chasing U. S. Grant up a palmetto tree, while
+in the background were a large number of deceased Northern invaders
+neatly racked up like cordwood.
+
+Such things as these were a part of the art education of our early
+youth. Along with them we learned to value the family photograph album,
+which fastened with a latch like a henhouse door, and had a nap on it
+like a furred tongue, and contained, among other treasures, the
+photograph of our Uncle Hiram wearing his annual collar.
+
+And there were also enlarged crayon portraits in heavy gold frames with
+red plush insertions, the agent having thrown in the portraits in
+consideration of our taking the frames; and souvenirs of the
+Philadelphia Centennial; and wooden scoop shovels heavily gilded by hand
+with moss roses painted on the scoop part and blue ribbon bows to hang
+them up by; and on the what-not in the corner you were reasonably
+certain of finding a conch shell with the Lord's Prayer engraved on it;
+and if you held the shell up to your young ear you could hear the
+murmur of the sea just as plain as anything. Of course you could secure
+the same murmuring effect by holding an old-fashioned tin cuspidor up to
+your ear, too, but in this case the poetic effect would have been
+lacking. And, besides, there were other uses for the cuspidor.
+
+Almost the only Old Masters with whose works we were well acquainted
+were John L. Sullivan and Nonpareil Jack Dempsey. But Rosa Bonheur's
+Horse Fair suited us clear down to the ground--her horses looked like
+real horses, even if they were the kind that haul brewery wagons; and in
+the matter of sculpture Powers' Greek Slave seemed to fill the bill to
+the satisfaction of all. Anthony Comstock and the Boston Purity League
+had not taken charge of our art as yet, and nobody seemed to find any
+fault because the Greek lady looked as though she'd slipped on the top
+step and come down just as she was, wearing nothing to speak of except a
+pair of handcuffs. Nobody did speak of it either--not in a mixed company
+anyhow.
+
+Furniture was preferred when it was new--the newer the better. We went
+in for golden oak and for bird's eye maple, depending on whether we
+liked our furniture to look tanned or freckled; and when the careful
+housekeeper threw open her parlor for a social occasion, such as a
+funeral, the furniture gave off a splendid new sticky smell, similar to
+a paint and varnish store on a hot day. The vogue for antiques hadn't
+got started yet; that was to descend upon us later on. We rather liked
+the dining-room table to have all its legs still, and the bureau to have
+drawers that could be opened without blasting. In short, that was the
+period of our national life when only the very poor had to put up with
+decrepit second-hand furniture, as opposed to these times when only the
+very rich can afford to own it. If you have any doubts regarding this
+last assertion of mine I should advise you to drop into any reliable
+antique shop and inquire the price of a mahogany sideboard suffering
+from tetter and other skin diseases, or a black walnut cupboard with
+doors that froze up solid about the time of the last Seminole War. I
+suppose these things go in cycles--in fact, I'm sure they do. Some day
+the bare sight of the kind of furniture which most people favor nowadays
+will cause a person of artistic sensibilities to burst into tears, just
+as the memory of the things that everybody liked twenty-five or thirty
+years ago gives such poignant pain to so many at present.
+
+Even up to the time of the World's Fair quite a lot of people still
+favored the simpler and more understandable forms of art expression. We
+went to Chicago and religiously visited the Art Building, and in our
+nice new creaky shoes we walked past miles and miles of brought-on
+paintings by foreign artists, whose names we could not pronounce, in
+order to find some sentimental domestic subject. After we had found it
+we would stand in front of it for hours on a stretch with the tears
+rolling down our cheeks. Some of us wept because the spirit of the
+picture moved us, and some because our poor tired feet hurt us and the
+picture gave us a good excuse for crying in public, and so we did
+so--freely and openly. Grant if you will that our taste was crude and
+raw and provincial, yet we knew what we liked and the bulk of us weren't
+ashamed to say so, either. What we liked was a picture or a statue which
+remotely at least resembled the thing that it was presumed to represent.
+Likewise we preferred pictures of things that we ourselves knew about
+and could understand.
+
+Maybe it was because of that early training that a good many of us have
+never yet been able to work up much enthusiasm over the Old Masters.
+Mind you, we have no quarrel with those who become incoherent and
+babbling with joy in the presence of an Old Master, but--doggone
+'em!--they insist on quarreling with us because we think differently. We
+fail to see anything ravishingly beautiful in a faded, blistered,
+cracked, crumbling painting of an early Christian martyr on a grill,
+happily frying on one side like an egg--a picture that looks as though
+the Old Master painted it some morning before breakfast, when he wasn't
+feeling the best in the world, and then wore it as a liver pad for forty
+or fifty years. We cannot understand why they love the Old Masters so,
+and they cannot understand why we prefer the picture of Custer's Last
+Stand that the harvesting company used to give away to advertise its
+mowing machines.
+
+Once you get away from the early settlers among the Old Masters the
+situation becomes different. Rembrandt and Hals painted some portraits
+that appeal deeply to the imagination of nearly all of my set. The
+portraits which they painted not only looked like regular persons, but
+so far as my limited powers of observation go, they were among the few
+painters of Dutch subjects who didn't always paint a windmill or two
+into the background. It probably took great resolution and
+self-restraint, but they did it and I respect them for it.
+
+I may say that I am also drawn to the kind of ladies that Gainsborough
+and Sir Joshua Reynolds painted. They certainly turned out some mighty
+good-looking ladies in those days, and they were tasty dressers, too,
+and I enjoy looking at their pictures. Coming down the line a little
+farther, I want to state that there is also something very
+fascinating in those soft-boiled pink ladies, sixteen hands high, with
+sorrel manes, that Bouguereau did; and the soldier pictures of
+Meissonier and Detaille appeal to me mightily. Their soldiers are always
+such nice neat soldiers, and they never have their uniforms mussed up or
+their accouterments disarranged, even when they are being shot up or cut
+down or something. Corot and Rousseau did some landscapes that seem to
+approximate the real thing, and there are several others whose names
+escape me; but, speaking for myself alone, I wish to say that this is
+about as far as I can go at this writing. I must admit that I have never
+been held spellbound and enthralled for hours on a stretch by a
+contemplation of the inscrutable smile on Mona Lisa. To me she seems
+merely a lady smiling about something--simply that and nothing more.
+
+[Illustration: "THE INSCRUTABLE SMILE OF A SALESLADY WOULD MAKE MONA
+LISA SEEM A MERE AMATEUR"]
+
+Any woman can smile inscrutably; that is one of the specialties of the
+sex. The inscrutable smile of a saleslady in an exclusive Fifth Avenue
+shop when a customer asks to look at something a little cheaper would
+make Mona Lisa seem a mere amateur as an inscrutable smiler. Quite a
+number of us remained perfectly calm when some gentlemen stole Miss Lisa
+out of the Louvre, and we expect to remain equally calm if she is never
+restored.
+
+As I said before, our little band is shrinking in numbers day by day.
+The population as a whole are being educated up to higher ideals in art.
+On the wings of symbolism and idealism they are soaring ever higher and
+higher, until a whole lot of them must be getting dizzy in the head by
+now.
+
+First, there was the impressionistic school, which started it; and then
+there was the post-impressionistic school, suffering from the same
+disease but in a more violent form; and here just recently there have
+come along the Cubists and the Futurists.
+
+[Illustration: "A PERSON WHO FOR REASONS BEST KNOWN TO THE POLICE HAS
+NOT BEEN LOCKED UP"]
+
+You know about the Cubists? A Cubist is a person who for reasons best
+known to the police has not been locked up yet, who asserts that all
+things in Nature, living and inanimate, properly resolve themselves into
+cubes. What is more, he goes and paints pictures to prove it--pictures
+of cubic waterfalls pouring down cubic precipices, and cubic ships
+sailing on cubic oceans, and cubic cows being milked by cubic milkmaids.
+He makes portraits, too--portraits of persons with cubic hands and cubic
+feet, who are smoking cubed cigarettes and have solid cubiform heads. On
+that last proposition we are with them unanimously; we will concede that
+there are people in this world with cube-shaped heads, they being the
+people who profess to enjoy this style of picture.
+
+A Futurist begins right where a Cubist leaves off, and gets worse. The
+Futurists have already had exhibitions in Paris and London and last
+Spring they invaded New York. They call themselves art anarchists. Their
+doctrine is a simple and a cheerful one--they merely preach that
+whatever is normal is wrong. They not only preach it, they practice it.
+
+Here are some of their teachings:
+
+"We teach the plunge into shadowy death under the white set eyes of the
+ideal!
+
+"The mind must launch the flaming body, like a fire-ship, against the
+enemy, the eternal enemy that, if he do not exist, must be invented!
+
+"The victory is ours--I am sure of it, for the maniacs are already
+hurling their hearts to heaven like bombs! Attention! Fire! Our blood?
+Yes! All our blood in torrents to redye the sickly auroras of the earth!
+Yes, and we shall also be able to warm thee within our smoking arms, O
+wretched, decrepit, chilly Sun, shivering upon the summit of the
+Gorisankor!"
+
+[Illustration: "COLLISION BETWEEN TWO HEAVENLY BODIES OR PREMATURE
+EXPLOSION OF A CUSTARD PIE"]
+
+There you have the whole thing, you see, simply, dispassionately and
+quietly presented. Most of us have seen newspaper reproductions of the
+best examples of the Futurists' school. As well as a body can judge from
+these reproductions, a Futurist's method of execution must be
+comparatively simple. After looking at his picture, you would say that
+he first put on a woolly overcoat and a pair of overshoes; that he then
+poured a mixture of hearth paint, tomato catsup, liquid bluing, burnt
+cork, English mustard, Easter dyes and the yolks of a dozen eggs over
+himself, seasoning to taste with red peppers. Then he spread a large
+tarpaulin on the floor and lay down on it and had an epileptic fit, the
+result being a picture which he labeled Revolt, or Collision Between Two
+Heavenly Bodies, or Premature Explosion of a Custard Pie, or something
+else equally appropriate. The Futurists ought to make quite a number of
+converts in this country, especially among those advanced lovers of art
+who are beginning to realize that the old impressionistic school lacked
+emphasis and individuality in its work. But I expect to stand firm, and
+when everybody else nearly is a Futurist and is tearing down Sargent's
+pictures and Abbey's and Whistler's to make room for immortal Young
+Messers, I and a few others will still be holding out resolutely to the
+end.
+
+At such times as these I fain would send my thoughts back longingly to
+an artist who flourished in the town where I was born and brought up. He
+was practically the only artist we had, but he was versatile in the
+extreme. He was several kinds of a painter rolled into one--house, sign,
+portrait, landscape, marine and wagon. In his lighter hours, when
+building operations were dull, he specialized in oil paintings of life
+and motion--mainly pictures of horse races and steamboat races. When he
+painted a horse race, the horses were always shown running neck and neck
+with their mouths wide open and their eyes gleaming; and their nostrils
+were widely extended and painted a deep crimson, and their legs were
+neatly arranged just so, and not scrambled together in any old fashion,
+as seems to be the case with the legs of the horses that are being
+painted nowadays. And when he painted a steamboat race it would always
+be the Natchez and the Robert E. Lee coming down the river abreast in
+the middle of the night, with the darkies dancing on the lower decks and
+heavy black smoke rolling out of the smokestacks in four distinct
+columns--one column to each smokestack--and showers of sparks belching
+up into the vault of night.
+
+There was action for you--action and attention to detail. With this
+man's paintings you could tell a horse from a steamboat at a glance. He
+was nothing of an impressionist; he never put smokestacks on the
+horse nor legs on the steamboat. And his work gave general satisfaction
+throughout that community.
+
+Frederic Remington wasn't any impressionist either; and so far as I can
+learn he didn't have a cubiform idea in stock. When Remington painted an
+Indian on a pony it was a regular Indian and a regular pony--not one of
+those cotton-batting things with fat legs that an impressionist slaps on
+to a canvas and labels a horse. You could smell the lathered sweat on
+the pony's hide and feel the dust of the dry prairie tickling your
+nostrils. You could see the slide of the horse's withers and watch the
+play of the naked Indian's arm muscles. I should like to enroll as a
+charter member of a league of Americans who believe that Frederic
+Remington and Howard Pyle were greater painters than any Old Master that
+ever turned out blistered saints and fly-blown cherubim. And if every
+one who secretly thinks the same way about it would only join in--of
+course they wouldn't, but if they would--we'd be strong enough to elect
+a president on a platform calling for a prohibitive tariff against the
+foreign-pauper-labor Old Masters of Europe.
+
+While we were about it our league could probably do something in the
+interests of sculpture. It is apparent to any fair-minded person that
+sculpture has been very much overdone in this country. It seems to us
+there should be a law against perpetuating any of our great men in
+marble or bronze or stone or amalgam fillings until after he has been
+dead a couple of hundred years, and by that time a fresh crop ought to
+be coming on and probably we shall have lost the desire to create such
+statues.
+
+A great man who cannot live in the affectionate and grateful memories of
+his fellow countrymen isn't liable to live if you put up statues of him;
+that, however, is not the main point.
+
+The artistic aspect is the thing to consider. So few of our great men
+have been really pretty to look at. Andrew Jackson made a considerable
+dent in the history of his period, but when it comes to beauty, there
+isn't a floor-walker in a department store anywhere that hasn't got him
+backed clear off the pedestal. In addition to that, the sort of clothes
+we've been wearing for the last century or so do not show up especially
+well in marble. Putting classical draperies on our departed solons has
+been tried, but carving a statesman with only a towel draped over him,
+like a Roman senator coming out of a Turkish bath, is a departure from
+the real facts and must be embarrassing to his shade. The greatest
+celebrities were ever the most modest of men. I'll bet the spirit of the
+Father of His Country blushes every time he flits over that statue of
+himself alongside the Capitol at Washington--the one showing him sitting
+in a bath cabinet with nothing on but a sheet.
+
+Sticking to the actual conditions doesn't seem to help much either.
+Future generations will come and stand in front of the statue of a
+leader of thought who flourished back about 1840, say, and wonder how
+anybody ever had feet like those and lived. Horace Greeley's chin
+whiskers no doubt looked all right on Horace when he was alive, but when
+done in bronze they invariably present a droopy not to say dropsical
+appearance; and the kind of bone-handled umbrella that Daniel Webster
+habitually carried has never yet been successfully worked out in marble.
+When you contemplate the average statue of Lincoln--and most of them, as
+you may have noticed, are very average--you do not see there the majesty
+and the grandeur and the abiding sorrow of the man and the tragedy of
+his life. At least I know I do not see those things. I see a pair of
+massive square-toed boots, such as I'm sure Father Abe never wore--he
+couldn't have worn 'em and walked a step--and I see a beegum hat
+weighing a ton and a half, and I say to myself: "This is not the Abraham
+Lincoln who freed the slaves and penned the Gettysburg address. No, sir!
+A man with those legs would never have been president--he'd have been in
+a dime museum exhibiting his legs for ten cents a look--and they'd have
+been worth the money too."
+
+Nobody seems to have noticed it, but we undoubtedly had the cube form of
+expression in our native sculpture long before it came out in painting.
+
+To get a better idea of what I'm trying to drive at, just take a trip up
+through Central Park the next time you are in New York and pause a while
+before those bronzes of Sir Walter Scott and Robert Burns which stand on
+the Mall. They are called bronzes, but to me they always looked more
+like castings. I don't care if you are as Scotch as a haggis, I know in
+advance what your feelings will be. If you decide that these two men
+ever looked in life like those two bronzes you are going to lose some of
+your love and veneration for them right there on the spot; or else you
+are going to be filled with an intense hate for the persons who have
+libeled them thus, after they were dead and gone and not in position to
+protect themselves legally. But you don't necessarily have to come to
+New York--you've probably got some decoration in your home town that is
+equally sad. There've been a lot of good stone-masons spoiled in this
+country to make enough sculptors to go round.
+
+But while we are thinking these things about art and not daring to
+express them, I take note that new schools may come and new schools may
+go, but there is one class of pictures that always gets the money and
+continues to give general satisfaction among the masses.
+
+I refer to the moving pictures.
+
+
+
+
+_SPORT_
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+As I understand it, sport is hard work for which you do not get paid.
+If, for hire, you should consent to go forth and spend eight hours a day
+slamming a large and heavy hammer at a mark, that would be manual toil,
+and you would belong to the union and carry a card, and have political
+speeches made to you by persons out for the labor vote. But if you do
+this without pay, and keep it up for more than eight hours on a stretch,
+it then becomes sport of a very high order--and if you continue it for a
+considerable period of time, at more or less expense to yourself, you
+are eventually given a neat German-silver badge, costing about two
+dollars, which you treasure devotedly ever after. A man who walks
+twenty-five miles a day for a month without getting anything for
+it--except two lines on the sporting page--is a devotee of
+pedestrianism, and thereby acquires great merit among his fellow
+athletes. A man who walks twenty-five miles a day for a month and gets
+paid for it is a letter-carrier.
+
+Also sport is largely a point of view. A skinny youth who flits forth
+from a gymnasium attired in the scenario of a union suit, with a design
+of a winged Welsh rarebit on his chest, and runs many miles at top speed
+through the crowded marts of trade, is highly spoken of and has medals
+hung on him. If he flits forth from a hospital somewhat similarly
+attired, and does the same thing, the case is diagnosed as temporary
+insanity--and we drape a strait-jacket on him and send for his folks.
+Such is the narrow margin that divides Marathon and mania; and it helps
+to prove that sport is mainly a state of mind.
+
+I am speaking now with reference to our own country. Different nations
+have different conceptions of this subject. Golf and eating haggis in a
+state of original sin are the national pastimes of the Scotch, a hardy
+race. At submarine boating and military ballooning the French
+acknowledge no superiors. Their balloons go up and never come down, and
+their submarines go down and never come up. The Irish are born club
+swingers, as witness any police force; and the Swiss, as is well known,
+have no equals at Alpine mountain climbing, chasing cuckoos into wooden
+clocks, and running hotels. I've always believed that, if the truth were
+only known, the reason why the Swiss Family Robinson did so well in that
+desert clime was because they opened a hotel and took in the natives to
+board.
+
+Among certain branches of the Teutonic races the favorite indoor sport
+is suicide by gas, and the favorite outdoor sport is going to a
+_schutzenfest_ and singing _Ach du lieber Augustin!_ coming home. To
+Italy the rest of us are indebted for unparalleled skill in eating
+spaghetti with one tool--they use the putting iron all the way round.
+Our cousins, the English, excel at archery, tea-drinking and putting the
+fifty-six pound protest. Thus we lead the world at contesting Olympian
+games and winning them, and they lead the world at losing them first and
+then contesting them. In catch-as-catch-can wrestling between
+Suffragettes and policemen the English also hold the present
+championship at all weights. And so it goes.
+
+We in America have a range of sports and pastimes that is as wide as our
+continent, which is fairly wide as continents go. In using the editorial
+we here I do not mean, however, to include myself. At sport I am no more
+than an inoffensive onlooker. One time or another I have tried many of
+our national diversions and have found that those which are not
+strenuous enough are entirely too strenuous for a person of fairly
+settled habits. It is much easier to look on and less fatiguing to the
+system. I find that the best results along sporting lines are attained
+by taking a comfortable seat up in the grandstand, lighting a good cigar
+and leaning back and letting somebody else do the heavy work. Reading
+about it is also a very good way.
+
+Take fishing, now, for example. What can be more delightful on a bright,
+pleasant afternoon, when the wind is in exactly the right quarter, than
+to take up a standard work on fishing, written by some gifted traveling
+passenger agent, and with him to snatch the elusive finny tribe out of
+their native element, while the reel whirs deliriously and the hooked
+trophy leaps high in air, struggling against the feathered barb of the
+deceptive lure, and a waiter is handy if you press the button? I have
+forgotten the rest of the description; but any railroad line making a
+specialty of summer-resort business will be glad to send you the full
+details by mail, prepaid. In literature, fishing is indeed an
+exhilarating sport; but, so far as my experience goes, it does not pan
+out when you carry the idea farther.
+
+To begin with, there is the matter of tackle. Some people think
+collecting orchids is expensive--and I guess it is, the way the orchid
+market is at present; and some say matching up pearls costs money. They
+should try buying fishing tackle once. If J. Pierpont Morgan had gone in
+for fishing tackle instead of works of art he would have died in the
+hands of a receiver. Any self-respecting dealer in sporting goods would
+be ashamed to look his dependent family in the face afterward if he
+suffered you to escape from his lair equipped for even the simplest
+fishing expedition unless he had sawed off about ninety dollars' worth
+of fishing knickknacks on you.
+
+[Illustration: "EVERYTHING YOU CATCH IS SECOND-HAND"]
+
+Let us say, then, that you have mortgaged the old home and have acquired
+enough fishing tackle to last you for a whole day. Then you go forth,
+always conceding that you are an amateur fisherman who fishes for fun as
+distinguished from a professional fisherman who fishes for fish--and you
+get into a rowboat that you undertake to pull yourself and that starts
+out by weighing half a ton and gets half a ton heavier at each stroke.
+You pull and pull until your spine begins to unravel at both ends, and
+your palms get so full of water blisters you feel as though you were
+carrying a bunch of hothouse grapes in each hand. And after going about
+nine miles you unwittingly anchor off the mouth of a popular garbage
+dump and everything you catch is second-hand. The sun beats down upon
+you with unabated fervor and the back of your neck colors up like a
+meerschaum pipe; and after about ten minutes you begin to yearn with
+a great, passionate yearning for a stiff collar and some dry clothes,
+and other delights of civilization.
+
+If, on the other hand, I am being guided by an experienced angler it has
+been my observation that he invariably takes me to a spot where the fish
+bit greedily yesterday and will bite avariciously tomorrow, but, owing
+to a series of unavoidable circumstances, are doing very little in the
+biting line today. Or if by any chance they should be biting they at
+once contract an intense aversion for my goods. Others may catch them as
+freely as the measles, but toward me fish are never what you would call
+infectious. I'm one of those immunes. Or else the person in charge
+forgets to bring any bait along. This frequently happens when I am in
+the party.
+
+One day last summer I went fishing in the Savannah River, and we
+traveled miles and miles to reach the fishing-ground. We found the water
+there alive with fish, and anchored where they were thickest; and then
+the person who was guiding the expedition discovered that he had left
+the bait on the wharf. He is the most absent-minded man south of the
+Ohio anyhow. In the old days before Georgia went dry he had to give up
+carrying a crook-handled umbrella. He would invariably leave it hanging
+on the rail. So I should have kept the bait in mind myself--but I
+didn't, being engaged at the time in sun-burning a deep, radiant
+magenta. However it was not a fast color--long before night it was
+peeling off in long, painful strips.
+
+Suppose you do catch something! You cast and cast, sometimes burying
+your hook in submerged debris and sometimes in tender portions of your
+own person. After a while you land a fish; but a fish in a boat is
+rarely so attractive as he was in a book. One of the drawbacks about a
+fish is that he becomes dead so soon--and so thoroughly.
+
+I have been speaking thus far of river fishing. I would not undertake to
+describe at length the joys of brook fishing, because I tried it only
+once. Once was indeed sufficient, not to say ample. On this occasion I
+was chaperoned by an old, experienced brook fisherman. I was astonished
+when I got my first view of the stream. It seemed to me no more than a
+trickle of moisture over a bed of boulders--a gentle perspiration
+coursing down the face of Nature, as it were. Any time they tapped a
+patient for dropsy up that creek there would be a destructive freshet, I
+judged; but, as it developed, this brook was deceptive--it was full of
+deep, cold holes. I found all these holes.
+
+I didn't miss a single one. While I was finding them and then crawling
+out of them, my companion was catching fish. He caught quite a number,
+some of them being nearly three inches long. They were speckled and had
+rudimentary gills and suggestions of fins, and he said they were brook
+trout--and I presume they were; but if they had been larger they would
+have been sardines. You cannot deceive me regarding the varieties of
+fish that come in cans. I would say that the best way to land a brook
+trout is to go to a restaurant and order one from a waiter in whom you
+have confidence. In that way you will avoid those deep holes.
+
+Nor have I ever shone as a huntsman. If the shadowy roeshad is not for
+me neither is her cousin, the buxom roebuck. Nor do I think I will ever
+go in for mountain-climbing as a steady thing, having tried it. Poets
+are fond of dwelling upon the beauties of the everlasting hills,
+swimming in purple and gold--but no poet ever climbed one. If he ever
+did he would quit boosting and start knocking. I was induced to scale a
+large mountain in the northern part of New York. It belonged to the
+state; and, like so many other things the state undertakes to run, it
+was neglected. No effort whatever had been made to make it cozy and
+comfortable for the citizen. It was one of those mountains that from a
+distance look smooth and gentle of ascent, but turn out to be rugged and
+seamy and full of rocks with sharp corners on them at about the height
+of the average human knee or shin. The lady for whom that mountain in
+Mexico, Chapultepec, is named--oh, yes, Miss Anna Peck--would have had a
+perfectly lovely time scaling that mountain; but I didn't.
+
+[Illustration: "HE COULD BEAT ME CLIMBING, BUT AT PANTING I HAD HIM
+LICKED TO A WHISPER"]
+
+After we had climbed upward at an acute angle for several hundred
+miles--my companion said yards, but I know better; it was miles--I threw
+myself prone upon the softer surfaces of a large granite slab, feeling
+that I could go no farther. I also wished to have plenty of room in
+which to pant. He could beat me climbing, but at panting I had him
+licked to a whisper. He was a person without sympathy. In his bosom the
+milk of human kindness had clabbered and turned to a brick-cheese. He
+stood there and laughed. There are times to laugh, but this was not one
+of the times. Anyway I always did despise those people who are built
+like sounding boards and have fine acoustic qualities inside their
+heads--and not much of anything else; but never did I despise them more
+than at that moment. He sent his grating, raucous, discordant, ill-timed
+guffaws reverberating off among the precipitous crags, and then he
+turned from me and went forging ahead.
+
+He was almost out of sight when I remembered about there being bears on
+that mountain; so I rose and undertook to forge ahead too. I was not a
+great success at it however. I know now that if ever I should turn to a
+life of crime forgery would not be my forte. I do not forge readily.
+Eventually, though, I reached the summit, he being already there. We had
+come up for the view, but I seemed to have lost my interest in views;
+so, while he looked at the view, I reclined in a prostrate position and
+resumed panting. That was three years ago and I am still somewhat behind
+with my pants. I am going to take a week off sometime and pant steadily
+and try to catch up; but the outing taught me one thing--I learned a
+simple way of descending a steep mountain. If one is of a circular style
+of construction it is very simple. One rolls.
+
+Camping is highly spoken of, and I have tried camping a number of times.
+When I go camping it rains. It begins to rain when I start and it keeps
+on raining until I come back. It never fails. I have often thought that
+drought-sufferers in various parts of the country who seek to attract
+rain in dry spells make a mistake. They try the old-fashioned Methodist
+way of praying for it, or the new scientific way of shooting dynamite
+bombs off and trying to blast it out of the heavens; when, as a matter
+of fact, the best plan would be to send for me and get me to go camping
+in the arid district. It would then rain heavily and without cessation.
+
+It is a fine thing to talk about the perfumed and restful bed of balsam
+boughs, and the crackle of the campfire at dusk, and the dip in the
+mirrored bosom of the pellucid lake at dawn--old Emerson Hough does all
+that to perfection; but these things assume a different aspect when it
+rains. There are three conditions in life when any latent selfishness in
+a man's being, however far down it may be buried ordinarily, will come
+surging to the surface--when he is courting a girl against strong
+opposition; when he is playing a gentleman's game of poker, purely for
+sociability; and when he is camping out and it rains. Before a man makes
+up his mind that he will take a girl to be his wife he should induce her
+to go in surf bathing and see how she looks when she comes out; and
+before he makes up his mind that he will take a man to be his best
+friend he should go camping with him in the rainy season--the answer in
+both cases being that then he won't do either one.
+
+I remember going camping once with a man who before that had appeared to
+be all that one could ask in the way of a chosen comrade; but after we
+had spent four days cooped up together in an eight-by-ten tent that was
+built with sloping shoulders, like an Englishman's overcoat, listening
+to the sough of the wind through the wet pine trees without, and dodging
+the streams of water that percolated through the dripping roof within, I
+could think of more than seven thousand things about that man that I
+cordially disliked.
+
+His whiskers gradually became the most distasteful of all to me. Either
+he hadn't brought a razor along or it was too wet for shaving--or
+something; and his whiskers grew out, and they were bristly and red in
+color, which was something I had not suspected before. As I sat there
+with the little rivulets running down the back of my neck and the rust
+forming on my amalgam fillings and mold on my shoes and mushrooms
+sprouting under my hatband, it seemed to me that he had taken an unfair
+advantage of me by having red whiskers. Viewed through the drizzle they
+appeared to be the reddest, the most inflammatory, the most
+poisonous-looking whiskers I ever saw! They were too red to be natural.
+
+I decided finally that he must have been scared by a Jersey bull so that
+his whiskers turned red in a single night--and I was getting ready to
+twit him about it; but he beat me to it. It seemed that all this time he
+had been feeling more and more deeply offended at the way in which my
+ears were adjusted to my head. He couldn't make up his mind, he said,
+which way he would hate me more--with my ears or without them; but he
+was willing to take a butcher knife and experiment. He also said that,
+as an expert bookkeeper, he wouldn't know whether to enter my ears as
+outstanding losses or amounts brought forward. Going into those woods we
+were just the same as Damon and Pythias; but coming out his bite would
+have been instant death, and I felt toward him exactly as the tarantula
+does toward the centipede. We were the original Blue-Gum Twins.
+
+Coming now to aquatic sports as distinguished from pastimes ashore, I
+feel that I am better qualified to speak authoritatively, having had
+more experience in that direction. Let us start with canoeing. Canoeing
+is a sport fraught with constant surprises. A canoeing trip is rarely
+the same thing twice in succession; and particularly is this true in
+streams where the temperature of the water is subject to change. It is
+comparatively easy to paddle a canoe if you only remember to scoop
+toward you. You merely reverse the process by which truly refined people
+imbibe soup. Even if you never master the art of paddling you may still
+get along fairly well if you know how to swim. On the whole I would say
+that one is liable to enjoy a longer career as a canoeist where one
+swims but can't paddle, than where one paddles but can't swim.
+
+Approaching the subject of motor-boating as compared with sailboating,
+we find the situation becoming complicated and growing technical. In
+sailing, as is generally known, you depend upon the wind; and there are
+only two things the wind does--one is to blow and the other is not to
+blow. But when you begin to figure up the things that a motor boat will
+do when you don't want it to, and won't do when you do want it to, you
+are face to face with one of the most complicated mathematical jobs
+known to the realm of mechanical science.
+
+A motor boat undoubtedly has a larger and fancier repertoire of cute
+tricks and unexpected ways than anything in the nature of machinery. I
+know this to be true, because I have a relative who suffers from
+motor-boatitis in an advanced form. He has owned many different brands
+of motor boats--that is one reason, I think, why he is not wealthier; in
+fact he has had about all the kinds there are except a kind that will
+start when you wish it to and stop when you expect it to. His motor
+boats do nearly everything--backfire, and fail to spark, and clog up,
+and blow up, and break down, and smash up and drift ashore, and drift
+out from shore, and have the asthma and the heaves and impediments of
+speech; but he has never yet owned one that could be depended upon to
+do the two things I have just mentioned.
+
+After trying various models and discarding them, he now has one of the
+most complete motor boats made. It has what is known as a hunting cabin,
+it being so called, I think, because the moment anybody gets into it he
+has to get out again while the owner crawls in and takes up all the
+seats and hunts for something. It is the theory that one could live
+afloat in this hunting cabin--and so one could if one were only a
+dachshund and inured to exposure. It is plenty wide enough for the
+average dachshund and plenty high enough, too, but not more than about
+two-thirds long enough. If one were a dachshund one would either have to
+coil up or else remain partly outdoors. Also, on board is a galley,
+which would be a success in every way if you could find a style of cook
+who could get used to sitting on one hole of the stove while he cooked
+on the other. One of those talented parlor magicians who does light
+housekeeping in a borrowed high hat by breaking raw eggs into it and
+then taking out omelet souffles, might fill the bill--only I never have
+chanced to see a parlor magician yet who could crowd himself and his
+feet into that galley at the same time.
+
+The principal feature of this motor boat, however, is the engine, which
+is a very complicated and beautiful thing, with coils and plugs and
+brakes strewed about over it here and there, and a big flywheel
+superimposed right in front. It is the theory that, by opening several
+cocks and closing several others, and adjusting about fifteen or twenty
+little duflickers just so, and then revolving this wheel briskly with a
+crank provided for that purpose, the engine can be started. It is
+supposed to say chug-chug a couple of times impatiently, and then go
+scooting away, chug-chugging like an inspired slide-trombone.
+
+Such is the theory, but such is not the fact. I've seen the owner crank
+her until his backbone comes unjointed, without getting any response
+whatsoever. And then, just when he is about to succumb to hate and
+overexertion, the thing says tut-tut reprovingly--and then gives one
+tired pish and a low mournful tush and coughs about a pint of warm
+gasoline into his face and dies as dead as Jesse James. I've seen her do
+that time and time again; but if she ever does start, the only way to
+stop her is to steer into some solid immovable object, such as the
+Western Hemisphere.
+
+At that, motor-boating for an amateur such as I am has certain
+advantages over sailboating. A motor-boatist--even the most reckless
+kind--knows enough to stay ashore when a West Indian hurricane is
+romping along the coast, playfully chasing its own tail like a young
+puppy; but that kind of a situation is just pie for your seasoned
+sailboatist.
+
+Only last summer I had a very distressing experience in connection with
+a sailboat, which was owned by a friend of mine--or perhaps I should say
+he was a friend of mine until this matter came up. From the clubhouse
+porch I had often admired his boat skimming gracefully over the bay,
+with its sail making a white gore against the blue background; and one
+day he invited me to go out with him for a sail. Before I had time
+for that second thought which is so desirable under such circumstances,
+I found myself committed to the venture.
+
+Right here, though, I wish to state that if anybody ever gets me out in
+a small sailboat again it will be over my dead body.
+
+[Illustration: "SHE WAS NOT MUCH LARGER THAN A SOAPDISH"]
+
+Well, anyway, we cast off, as he called it. I did not like that
+phrase--cast off--it sounded too much as though one were bidding
+farewell to all earthly ties--and almost immediately I was struck by
+other disconcerting facts. The first one was that his boat, which had
+looked roomy and commodious when viewed from shore, appeared to shrink
+up so when you were aboard her. Really, she was not much larger than a
+soapdish and not nearly so reliable. And another thing I noticed was a
+lot of the angriest-looking clouds that anybody ever saw, piling up on
+the horizon. And the waves were slopping up and down, and giving to the
+water that dark, forbidding appearance that is so inspiring in a marine
+painting, but so depressing when you are thrown into personal contact
+with it.
+
+I made a suggestion. As I recall now, I said something about waiting
+until the typhoon was over; but my friend grinned in an annoying,
+superior kind of way and said he doubted whether the wind would blow
+more than half a gale. He was right there--but it was the last half.
+Anyhow he swung her round and she heeled away over in an alarming
+fashion, and we headed right into the center of the vortex. He gave me
+the end of a rope to hold and told me to swing on to it, which I was
+very glad to do, because there are times and places when it gives you a
+slight sense of comfort to have anything at all to hold to, even if it
+is only a rope. On and on we careened madly. I was so occupied with
+harkening to the howl of the mad winds in the rigging and watching the
+mad waves that, when he suddenly called out something which sounded like
+Hard Ah Lee, I paid no attention. If his fancy led him in a moment of
+dire peril like this to be yelling for somebody with a name like a
+Chinese laundryman, it was no concern of mine.
+
+Then he bellowed: "Leggo that sheet!"
+
+Now I knew there was something about a sailboat called a sheet, but I
+naturally assumed it was the sail. I leave it to any disinterested
+person if a sail, being white and more or less square in shape, doesn't
+look more like a sheet than a mere rope does. So, as I wasn't near the
+sail, but was merely holding on to my rope, I started to tell him I
+wasn't touching his blamed old sheet. But the words were never spoken.
+
+The boat tried to shy out from under me and came very nearly succeeding.
+At the same time, she buckjumped and stood right up on one edge, like a
+demented gravy dish. At the same moment, also, a considerable portion of
+the Atlantic Ocean came aboard and lit in my lap, and something struck
+me alongside the head with frightful force; and something else scraped
+me off the place where I was sitting and hurled me headlong.
+
+When I came to, the man who owned the boat was scrambling round,
+stepping on me and my clothes, and grabbing at loose ends, and swearing;
+but as soon as he had a moment to spare from these other duties he
+called me a derned idiot! I was his guest, mind you, and he used that
+language toward me.
+
+"You derned idiot!" he said. "Didn't you see she was about to jibe?"
+
+I told him in a dignified manner that I certainly did not; that had I
+known she was about to jibe I would most certainly have jobe with her;
+that personally I preferred any amount of jibbing, however painful, to
+being drowned first and then beaten to death. I demanded to know why he
+had assaulted me upon the head and what he did it with.
+
+It developed, though, that he had not struck me at all. The boom swung
+round and hit me. This is a heavy section of lumber, and I think it is
+called a boom from the hollow, ringing sound it makes when dashing out
+the brains of amateur sailors. In my judgment these booms are dangerous
+and their presence should not be permitted aboard a sailing craft--or,
+at least, they should be towed a safe distance aft.
+
+But I digress. Referring to the devastating and angry elements that
+encompassed us, the owner of the boat said there was now a nice,
+fresh breeze blowing, and that he hated to miss the fun; but if I
+preferred to he would run back in and hug the shore. Hug it! I was ready
+to kiss it! What I wanted to do was to take that dear shore in both arms
+and press my throbbing cheeks against her mossy breast, and swear that
+nothing should ever again come between me and the solid part of the
+continent of North America.
+
+So, by a sheer miracle escaping death on the way, we returned, and I
+betook myself off of that craft and headed straight for the clubhouse. I
+wish to take advantage of this opportunity, however, to deny the report
+subsequently circulated by certain malicious persons to the effect that
+I was scared. Any passing agitation I may have betrayed was due to my
+relief at finding that the cyclone, despite its fury, had not swept the
+North Atlantic Coast bare. I also wish to deny the story that I was
+pale. I have one of those complexions that come and go. Anybody who
+knows me will tell you that.
+
+However, I have decided to give up sailboating; and, to a person of my
+shape and conservative tendencies, this leaves the field of outdoor
+sport considerably circumscribed. I am too peaceful for baseball and not
+warlike enough for football. I had thought some of taking up tennis, but
+have been deterred by the fact that so many young women excel at tennis.
+I could stand being licked by another man, but the idea of facing one of
+those sinewy young-lady champions whose stalwart face looks out at you
+from the sporting page is repellent to me.
+
+I can understand why so very few of these ultra-athletic college girls
+marry off early. A man instinctively is drawn to the clinging-vine type
+of female. If there is any sturdy oak round the place he wants to be it.
+But what I cannot understand is how these brawny young persons can be
+the granddaughters and the great granddaughters of those fragile
+creatures, with wasp waists and tiny feet, who lived back in the Early
+Victorian period and suffered from megrims and vapors. I'll venture that
+none of this generation ever had a vapor in her life; and as for
+megrims, she wouldn't know one if she met it in the big road. She may be
+muscle-bound and throw a splint sometimes, or get the Charley horse; but
+megrims are not for her--believe me!
+
+Oh, I've seen them often--the adorable yet brawny creatures, leaping six
+feet into the air and smacking a defenseless tennis ball with such vigor
+that it started right off in the general direction of Sioux Falls at the
+rate of upwards of ninety miles an hour, and coming down flat-footed
+without having jostled so much as a hairpin out of place. You may
+worship them, all right enough, but it is safer to do so at long
+distance.
+
+[Illustration: "THINK OF BEING LAID FACE DOWNWARD FIRMLY ACROSS A SINEWY
+KNEE AND BEATEN FORTY-LOVE WITH ONE OF THOSE HARD CATGUT RACKETS!"]
+
+Suppose you were hooked up for life to a lady champion and you happened
+to displease her? She'd spank you! Think of being laid face downward
+firmly across a sinewy knee and beaten forty-love with one of those hard
+catgut rackets! The very suggestion is intolerable to a believer in the
+supremacy of the formerly sterner sex.
+
+So I have decided not to take up tennis; but the doctor says I need
+exercise, and I think I will go in for golf, which is a young man's
+vice and an old man's penance. I have already taken the preliminary
+steps. I have joined a country club; I have also chosen my caddie. He is
+a deaf-and-dumb caddie, who has never been known to laugh at anything.
+
+That is why I chose him.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Cobb's Bill-of-Fare, by Irvin Shrewsbury Cobb
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COBB'S BILL-OF-FARE ***
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