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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 02:06:23 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 02:06:23 -0700 |
| commit | a47895d1ef325e09a51719ee806fddc3bf03ed80 (patch) | |
| tree | ee9549f4c7ec515cac792dadfc8b6ba3effd6735 /23666-h | |
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diff --git a/23666-h/23666-h.htm b/23666-h/23666-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..04ed8b0 --- /dev/null +++ b/23666-h/23666-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,4050 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Mission Furniture, How To Make It, + Part Three, by H.H. Windsor. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + ul { list-style-type:none;} + .toc {margin-left: 10%; text-align: right} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + } /* page numbers */ + + .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%;} + .sidenote {width: 20%; padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; + padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em; margin-left: 1em; + float: right; clear: right; margin-top: 1em; + font-size: smaller; color: black; background: #eeeeee; border: dashed 1px;} + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + .u {text-decoration: underline;} + + .caption {font-weight: bold;} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + .figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: + 1em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .figright {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Mission Furniture, by H. H. Windsor + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Mission Furniture + How to Make It, Part 3 + +Author: H. H. Windsor + +Release Date: November 30, 2007 [EBook #23666] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MISSION FURNITURE *** + + + + +Produced by K Nordquist, Ross Wilburn and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + + +<h1>MISSION FURNITURE</h1> +<h2>HOW TO MAKE IT</h2> + + +<h2>PART THREE</h2> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>POPULAR MECHANICS HANDBOOKS</h2> + + + +<h3>CHICAGO</h3> +<h3>POPULAR MECHANICS COMPANY</h3> + + +<h4>Copyrighted, 1912</h4> + +<h4>BY H. H. WINDSOR</h4> + +<p> +This book is one of the series of +handbooks on industrial subjects +being published by the Popular +Mechanics Co. Like the magazine, these +books are "written so you can understand +it," and are intended to furnish +information on mechanical subjects at a +price within the reach of all.</p> + +<p>The texts and illustrations have been +prepared expressly for this Handbook +Series, by experts; are up-to-date, and +have been revised by the editor of Popular +Mechanics.</p> + +<p>The dimensions given in the stock +list contained in the description +of each piece of furniture illustrated +in this book call for material +mill-planed, sanded and cut to length. +If the workman desires to have a complete +home-made article, allowance +must be made in the dimensions for +planing and squaring the pieces. S-4-S +and S-2-S are abbreviations for surface +four sides and surface two sides.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h3>CONTENTS</h3> + +<ul><li><a href="#LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"><b>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</b></a></li> +<li><a href="#A_PIANO_BENCH"><b>A PIANO BENCH</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">5</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_LIBRARY_TABLE"><b>A LIBRARY TABLE</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">7</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_PRINCESS_DRESSER"><b>A PRINCESS DRESSER</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">10</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_SEWING_BOX"><b>A SEWING BOX</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">14</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_FERN_STAND"><b>A FERN STAND</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">17</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_WARDROBE"><b>A WARDROBE</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">20</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_FINISH"><b>A FINISH</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">24</span></li> +<li><a href="#AN_OAK_TABLE"><b>AN OAK TABLE</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">25</span></li> +<li><a href="#BOOK_TROUGH"><b>BOOK TROUGH</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">28</span></li> +<li><a href="#AN_OAK_SERVING_TABLE"><b>AN OAK SERVING TABLE</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">30</span></li> +<li><a href="#AN_UMBRELLA_STAND"><b>AN UMBRELLA STAND</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">33</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_CHAFING-DISH_BUFFET"><b>A CHAFING-DISH BUFFET</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">35</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_WRITING_DESK"><b>A WRITING DESK</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">38</span></li> +<li><a href="#MUSIC_RACK_AND_BOOKSTAND"><b>MUSIC RACK AND BOOKSTAND</b></a><span style="margin-left: +2em;">41</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_DICTIONARY_AND_MAGAZINE_STAND"><b>A DICTIONARY AND MAGAZINE STAND</b></a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">43</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_LEATHER_BACK_ARM_CHAIR"><b>A LEATHER BACK ARM CHAIR</b></a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">47</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_WALL_SHELF"><b>A WALL SHELF</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">50</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_PEDESTAL"><b>A PEDESTAL</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">53</span></li> +<li><a href="#MAGAZINE_RACK"><b>MAGAZINE RACK</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">55</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_HALL_TREE"><b>A HALL TREE</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">58</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_TABLE_FOR_THE_DEN"><b>A TABLE FOR THE DEN</b></a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">60</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_BURLAP-COVERED_WINDOW_SEAT"><b>A BURLAP-COVERED WINDOW SEAT</b></a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">64</span></li> +<li><a href="#QUARTER-SAWED_OAK_SETTEE"><b>QUARTER-SAWED OAK SETTEE</b></a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">67</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_SCREEN"><b>A SCREEN</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">71, 94</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_MISSION_BOOKRACK"><b>A MISSION BOOKRACK</b></a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">74</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_ROUND_EXTENSION_DINING_TABLE"><b>A ROUND EXTENSION DINING TABLE</b></a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">75</span></li> +<li><a href="#AN_ARM_DINING_CHAIR"><b>AN ARM DINING CHAIR</b></a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">79</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_HALL_BENCH"><b>A HALL BENCH</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">82</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_SEWING_TABLE"><b>A SEWING TABLE</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">84</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_SIDE_CHAIR"><b>A SIDE CHAIR</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">88</span></li> +<li><a href="#ANOTHER_PIANO_BENCH"><b>ANOTHER PIANO BENCH</b></a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">91</span></li> +<li><a href="#ANOTHER_SCREEN"><b>ANOTHER SCREEN</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">95</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_FOLDING_CARD_TABLE"><b>A FOLDING CARD TABLE</b></a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">97</span></li> +<li><a href="#MAGAZINE_STAND"><b>MAGAZINE STAND</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">102</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_TABOURET"><b>A TABOURET</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">105</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_PORCH_SWING"><b>A PORCH SWING</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">109</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_FOOT_WARMER"><b>A FOOT WARMER</b></a><span style="margin-left: 2em;">111</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_PLATE_RACK_FOR_THE_DINING_ROOM"><b>A PLATE RACK FOR THE DINING ROOM</b></a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">113</span></li> +<li><a href="#A_MISSION_SIDEBOARD"><b>A MISSION SIDEBOARD</b></a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">116</span></li> +</ul> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h3><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a> +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h3> + +<ul><li><a href="#Piano_Bench_in_Black_Walnut">Piano Bench in Black Walnut</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">5</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Piano_Bench">Detail of the Piano Bench</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">6</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Library_Table">Detail of the Library Table</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">8</span></li> +<li><a href="#The_Finished_Library_Table">The Finished Library Table</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">9</span></li> +<li><a href="#Dresser_Made_of_Quarter-Sawed_Oak">Dresser Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">11</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Princess_Dresser">Detail of the Princess Dresser</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">12</span></li> +<li><a href="#Sewing_Box_Made_of_Walnut_and_Ash">Sewing Box Made of Walnut and Ash</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">13</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Sewing_Box">Detail of the Sewing Box</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">16</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Fern_Stand">Detail of the Fern Stand</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">18</span></li> +<li><a href="#Finished_Stand_in_Quartered_Oak">Finished Stand in Quartered Oak</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">19</span></li> +<li><a href="#The_Wardrobe_Complete">The Wardrobe Complete</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">21</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Wardrobe">Detail of the Wardrobe</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">23</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_Construction">Detail of Construction</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">26</span></li> +<li><a href="#Finished_Table">Finished Table</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">26</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_Book_Trough">Detail of Book Trough</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">28</span></li> +<li><a href="#Book_Trough_Complete">Book Trough Complete</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">29</span></li> +<li><a href="#Serving_Table_Complete">Serving Table Complete</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">30</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_Serving_Table">Detail of Serving Table</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">32</span></li> +<li><a href="#Umbrella_Stand">Umbrella Stand</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">33</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_Umbrella_Stand">Detail of Umbrella Stand</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">34</span></li> +<li><a href="#Buffet_in_Quartered_Oak">Buffet in Quartered Oak</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">35</span></li> +<li><a href="#Method_of_Fastening_with_Screws">Method of Fastening with Screws</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">36</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Chafing-Dish_Buffet">Detail of the Chafing-Dish Buffet</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">37</span></li> +<li><a href="#Writing_Desk_Made_of_Plain-Sawed_Oak">Writing Desk Made of Plain-Sawed Oak</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">39</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Writing_Desk">Detail of the Writing Desk</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">40</span></li> +<li><a href="#Complete_Stand">Complete Stand</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">41</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Stand">Detail of the Stand</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">42</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Dictionary_and_Magazine_Stand">Detail of the Dictionary and Magazine Stand</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">44</span></li> +<li><a href="#Stand_Made_in_Oak">Stand Made in Oak</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">45</span></li> +<li><a href="#Arm_Chair_Complete">Arm Chair Complete</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">47</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Arm_Chair">Detail of the Arm Chair</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">48</span></li> +<li><a href="#Complete_Wall_Shelf">Complete Wall Shelf</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">51</span></li> +<li><a href="#Wall_Shelf_Detail">Wall Shelf Detail</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">52</span></li> +<li><a href="#Completed_Pedestal">Completed Pedestal</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">53</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_Pedestal">Detail of Pedestal</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">54</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Magazine_Rack">Detail of the Magazine Rack</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">55</span></li> +<li><a href="#Magazine_Rack_Complete">Magazine Rack Complete</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">56</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_and_Finished_View_of_Hall_Tree">Detail and Finished View of Hall Tree</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">59</span></li> +<li><a href="#Table_Completed">Table Completed</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">62</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_a_Den_Table">Detail of a Den Table</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">63</span></li> +<li><a href="#Window_Seat">Fig. 1—The Rough Cedar Box Without the Covering</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">64</span></li> +<li><a href="#Design_of_the_Covering_Strip">Fig. 2—Design of the Covering Strip Put on Over the Burlap</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">66</span></li> +<li><a href="#Mission_Settee_Made_of_Quarter-Sawed_Oak">Mission Settee Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">68</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Oak_Settee">Detail of the Oak Settee</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">70</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_One_Section">Detail of One Section</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">72</span></li> +<li><a href="#Screen_of_Three_Sections">Screen of Three Sections</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">73</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Bookrack">Detail of the Bookrack</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">74</span></li> +<li><a href="#The_Complete_Bookrack">The Complete Bookrack</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">75</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Table">Detail of the Table</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">76</span></li> +<li><a href="#Table_for_the_Dining-Room_Set">Table for the Dining-Room Set</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">77</span></li> +<li><a href="#Armchair_of_the_Dining-Room_Set">Armchair of the Dining-Room Set</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">79</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Armchair">Detail of the Armchair</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">81</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Hall_Bench">Detail of the Hall Bench</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">82</span></li> +<li><a href="#Bench_Made_of_Plain_Oak">Bench Made of Plain Oak</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">83</span></li> +<li><a href="#Sewing_Table_in_Plain_Oak">Sewing Table in Plain Oak</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">85</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Sewing_Table">Detail of the Sewing Table</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">86</span></li> +<li><a href="#Construction_of_the_Drawer">Construction of the Drawer</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">87</span></li> +<li><a href="#Side_Chair_of_Dining-Room_Set">Side Chair of Dining-Room Set</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">89</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Side_Chair">Detail of the Side Chair</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">90</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Piano_Bench2">Detail of the Piano Bench</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">92</span></li> +<li><a href="#Piano_Bench_in_Quarter-Sawed_Oak">Piano Bench in Quarter-Sawed Oak</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">93</span></li> +<li><a href="#Plain-Oak_Frame">Plain-Oak Frame with Burlap Panels</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">95</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Frame">Detail of the Frame</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">97</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Card_Table">Detail of the Card Table</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">98</span></li> +<li><a href="#Card_Table_Ready_for_Use">Card Table Ready for Use</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">99</span></li> +<li><a href="#The_Legs_Fold_on_the_Under">The Legs Fold on the Under Side of Top</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">101</span></li> +<li><a href="#Stand_Complete">Stand Complete</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">103</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_Stand">Detail of Stand</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">104</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_Tabouret">Detail of Tabouret</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">106</span></li> +<li><a href="#Finished_Tabouret">Finished Tabouret</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">107</span></li> +<li><a href="#Complete_Porch_Swing">Complete Porch Swing</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">108</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Porch_Swing">Detail of the Porch Swing</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">110</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Foot_Warmer">Detail of the Foot Warmer</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">112</span></li> +<li><a href="#Oak_Stool">Oak Stool with Brass Cover</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">113</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_Plate_Rack">Detail of Plate Rack</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">114</span></li> +<li><a href="#Dining-Room_Plate_Rack">Dining-Room Plate Rack</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">115</span></li> +<li><a href="#Sideboard_for_the_Dining-Room_Set">Sideboard for the Dining-Room Set</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">116</span></li> +<li><a href="#Detail_of_the_Sideboard">Detail of the Sideboard</a> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">118</span></li> +</ul> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'>[5]</span></p> +<h2><a name="A_PIANO_BENCH" id="A_PIANO_BENCH"></a>A PIANO BENCH</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="Piano_Bench_in_Black_Walnut" id="Piano_Bench_in_Black_Walnut"></a> +<img src="images/i-005.jpg" width="600" height="448" alt=""/> +<span class="caption">Piano Bench in Black Walnut</span> +</div> + +<p>The piano bench shown in the accompanying picture +was made of black walnut and was finished +natural. The finish was applied in the following +manner: First, all the parts were well scraped and +sandpapered, then the surface was covered with a +coating of boiled linseed oil. After this had stood +several hours, or until it had had time to penetrate +the wood, the surplus liquid was wiped off with a +flannel cloth. After the oil had stood for 48 hours, +a thin coat of shellac was applied and allowed to +harden overnight. The next morning this shellac +<span class='pagenum'>[6]</span> +was sandpapered lightly with No. 00 paper and a +coat of floor wax was applied according to the directions +which are found upon every can. Two +more coats of wax were applied after intervals of +half an hour and the finish was completed. The effect +is very pleasing. The oil brings out the rich +color of the wood and the shellac and wax serve to +preserve the color. The following stock is needed:</p> + +<ul> +<li>1 top, 1 by 16-1/2 by 40-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 20 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 rails, 7/8 by 4-1/4 by 36 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 rails, 7/8 by 4-1/4 by 13 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 lower rails, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 13 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>1 stretcher, 7/8 by 3-3/4 by 36 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>6 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/4 by 11 in., S-2-S.</li> +</ul> + + +<p>With the exception of the legs all the stock is +specified mill-planed to thickness upon two surfaces. +The legs are specified planed on four sides. Square +the legs to length and the rails, stretcher, slats, etc., +to width and length.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_the_Piano_Bench" id="Detail_of_the_Piano_Bench"></a> +<img src="images/i-006.jpg" width="600" height="351" alt=""/> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Piano Bench</span> +</div> + +<p>Lay out and work the tenons of the rails and stretcher. The slats are +best made without tenons, the whole end of each slat being "housed" into +the +<span class='pagenum'>[7]</span> rails. The reason for this is obvious—it is a difficult +matter to fit two or more pieces between fixed parts when their ends are +tenoned. When the ends are housed any slight variation in the lengths +adjusts itself. It is necessary, however, to chisel the sides of the +mortises carefully, but this is a simple matter compared with getting +the shoulders of the tenons, etc., all just alike.</p> + +<p>Assemble the parts, using good hot glue. Put the ends of the bench +together first. When the glue has hardened on these, place the stretcher +and side rails. Fasten the top to the frame from the under side, either +by glued blocks and screws or by angle irons.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_LIBRARY_TABLE" id="A_LIBRARY_TABLE"></a>A LIBRARY TABLE</h2> + + +<p>A library table of neat appearance and correct +proportions is shown in the accompanying sketch +and detail drawing. This table looks best when finished +in quarter-sawed oak, although any of the +other furniture woods can be used if desired. If +the material is ordered from the mill cut to length, +squared and sanded, much of the hard labor can +be avoided. Order the following pieces:</p> + + +<ul><li>4 legs, 2 by 2 by 30-1/4 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 top, 1-1/8 by 30 by 42 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 end pieces, 3/4 by 17-1/8 by 29 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 37 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 25-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 lower brace, 3/4 by 2 by 32 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>4 shelves, 3/4 by 7 by 29 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>8 slats, 1/4 by 1-1/8 by 17-1/8 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 5-3/4 by 25 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>4 drawer sides, 3/8 by 3-3/4 by 14 in., soft wood.</li> +<li>2 drawer ends, 3/8 by 3-3/8 by 24-1/4 in., soft wood.</li> +<li>2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 13-1/4 by 24-1/4 in., soft wood.</li> +<li>2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2 by 23-1/2 in., soft wood.</li> +<li>2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2 by 25 in., soft wood.</li></ul> + +<p><span class='pagenum'>[8]</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_the_Library_Table" id="Detail_of_the_Library_Table"></a> +<img src="images/i-008.jpg" width="600" height="378" alt="Detail of the Library Table" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Library Table</span> +</div><p> +<span class='pagenum'>[9]</span></p> + +<p>Start work on the legs by beveling the tops and +squaring them up and laying out the mortises for +the shelves as shown in section BB. Care should +be taken to get the legs mortised in pairs and all cut +the same height. This is best done by placing the +four legs side by side with the ends square, and +then laying out the mortises across all four at once +with a try-square.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="The_Finished_Library_Table" id="The_Finished_Library_Table"></a> +<img src="images/i-009.jpg" width="600" height="417" alt="The Finished Library Table" title="" /> +<span class="caption">The Finished Library Table</span> +</div> + +<p>The table top is made of several boards which +are doweled and glued together. Be careful to +get the best side of each board up and have the +joints a tight fit. The corners should be cut out +for the posts as shown. The posts are to be fastened +to the board by means of screws. The holes +can be counterbored for the heads and then plugged. +The top rails are also fastened to the top board by +means of screws.</p> + +<p>The end pieces can now be made. Two or more +<span class='pagenum'>[10]</span> +boards will have to be glued together for these. The +top corners will have to be cut to fit about the +top rails. Cleats can be used in fastening them to +the top board. The shelves also have the corners +cut to fit into the mortises in the posts. They are +held to the end boards by means of screws.</p> + +<p>If the parts all fit perfectly square and tight, +they can be glued and screwed together, which will +complete the table except for the slats and drawers. +The slats can be fastened on with nails, then +the heads covered with fancy nails which can be +secured for this purpose. The drawer supports can +now be put in. They are screwed to the end boards +as shown. A bottom brace should be fastened under +the lower shelves to help steady the table. The +two drawers are made as shown in the detail sketch. +No handles are needed as the lower edge of the +front board can be used for pulling them out.</p> + +<p>When the table is complete it should be carefully +gone over with fine sandpaper and all rough spots +removed. Scrape the glue from about the joints as +finish will not take where there is any glue. Apply +the stain preferred or the one that matches the +other furniture. This can be any of the many stains +supplied by the trade for this purpose.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_PRINCESS_DRESSER" id="A_PRINCESS_DRESSER"></a>A PRINCESS DRESSER</h2> + +<p><span class='pagenum'>[11]</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 343px;"> +<a name="Dresser_Made_of_Quarter-Sawed_Oak" id="Dresser_Made_of_Quarter-Sawed_Oak"></a> +<img src="images/i-011.jpg" width="343" height="600" alt=""/> +<span class="caption">Dresser Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak</span> +</div> + +<p>A design of a princess dresser that is well proportioned +and of pleasing appearance is shown in the +accompanying sketch and detail drawing. The cost +is very moderate and if a mill is not too far away, +a great amount of labor can be saved by ordering +<span class='pagenum'>[12]</span> +the material ready cut to length, squared and +sanded. Quarter-sawed oak should be used and the +material needed will be as follows:</p> + + + + +<ul><li>4 posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 27 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 top board, 3/4 by 17 by 37 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>5 side rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>4 end rails, 3/4 by 2 by 17-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 end panels, 1/4 by 16-1/4 by 16-3/4 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 drawer partition, 1 by 7-3/4 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 back board, 3/4 by 4-1/2 by 36 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 mirror supports, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 30 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 side pieces for mirror, 3/4 by 2 by 42 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 end pieces for mirror, 3/4 by 2 by 21-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 7 by 17-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 drawer front, 3/4 by 7 by 36 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 20 by 38 bevel mirror.</li></ul> + + + +<p>The following pieces may be of any soft wood:</p> + + +<ul><li>5 drawer slides, 3/4 by 2 by 17 in.</li> +<li>6 drawer sides, 1/2 by 7 by 17 in.</li> +<li>2 drawer bottoms, 1/2 by 17 by 17 in.</li> +<li>1 drawer bottom, 1/2 by 17 by 35-1/2 in.</li> +<li>4-1/2 sq. ft. of 3/8-in. pine for back.</li></ul> + + + +<p>First be sure the posts are perfectly square and of +equal length. Either chamfer or round the upper +ends as desired. The mortises can now be laid out +and cut or they can be left until the rail tenons are +all made and then marked and cut directly from +each tenon. The posts as well as the end rails +should have grooves cut in them to take the 1/4-in. +end panels.</p> + +<p>The top board should have the corners cut to fit +about the posts. The corners of the back board +should be rounded as shown in the drawing.</p> + +<p>The end sections of the dresser can be glued together +first, care being taken to get the joints +square and tight. When these are dry the side rails +and drawer slides can be fitted and glued in place. +The top board is held in position by means of screws +through cleats which are fastened to the inner sides +of the rails.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'>[13]</span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 525px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_the_Princess_Dresser" id="Detail_of_the_Princess_Dresser"></a> +<img src="images/i-013.jpg" width="525" height="600" alt="Detail of the Princess Dresser" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Princess Dresser</span> +</div> + +<p>The mirror frame is made by mortising the end +pieces with the side pieces as shown. It is rabbeted +on the back to hold a 20 by 38-in. mirror. +After the mirror is securely fastened in the frame +a thin wood covering should be tacked on the back +to protect the glass. The frame swings between +<span class='pagenum'>[14]</span> +two upright posts which are securely fastened to +the body of the dresser as shown.</p> + +<p>The drawers are made and fitted in the usual manner. +The drawing shows two drawers in the top +compartment, but one exactly like the lower can be +made and used instead by simply leaving out the +1 in. partition. Suitable handles for the drawers +can be purchased at any hardware store.</p> + +<p>The back is made of soft wood and is put on in +the usual manner. Scrape all surplus glue from +about the joints as the stain will not take where +there is any glue. Finish smooth with fine sandpaper +and apply the stain desired, which may be +any of the many mission stains supplied by the +trade for this purpose.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_SEWING_BOX" id="A_SEWING_BOX"></a>A SEWING BOX</h2> + + +<p>A rather unique sewing box, and one that is quite +as convenient as unique, is shown in the illustration. +The material is walnut and ash. The posts +are walnut and the slats and top rail ash. Both are +finished in their natural colors. The following is +the stock bill:</p> + +<ul><li>4 posts, 1-1/2 in. in diameter and 15 in. long, walnut.</li> +<li>1 bottom, 3/8 by 16-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S, walnut.</li> +<li><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">4 top rails, 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 20 in., S-2-S, ash.</span></li> +<li><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">4 under rails, 5/8 by 3/4 by 20 in., S-2-S, walnut.</span></li> +<li>72 slats, 1/8 by 5/8 by 6-1/2 in., S-2-S, ash.</li></ul> + +<p>In ordering the stock it will be wise to combine +the lengths of pieces having like widths and thicknesses.</p> + +<p>If not possible to secure doweling of the diameter +indicated for the verticals, it is an easy matter to +<span class='pagenum'>[15]</span> +take a square piece of stock, lay it off and work it +into an eight-sided prism. After this, the arrises +may again be planed until it has 16 and then 32 +sides. The rest may be removed with sandpaper. +Or it is possible that curtain pole stock will be +available. Saw these posts to length and leave the +ends square.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Sewing_Box_Made_of_Walnut_and_Ash" id="Sewing_Box_Made_of_Walnut_and_Ash"></a> +<img src="images/i-015.jpg" width="600" height="541" alt="Sewing Box Made of +Walnut and Ash" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Sewing Box Made of +Walnut and Ash</span> +</div> + +<p>Square up the stock for the other parts. Work +the bottom piece to a 16-in. square. The rails are +not to be squared on the ends but are to be mitered +each in turn. The bottom is fastened to the posts +by metal brackets.<span class='pagenum'>[16]</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 367px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_the_Sewing_Box" id="Detail_of_the_Sewing_Box"></a> +<img src="images/i-016.jpg" width="367" height="600" alt=""/> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Sewing Box</span> +</div> + +<p>Chisel out recesses in the posts so that the bottom +may be inserted. Insert the corners and use +glue and nails to hold them in place. Place the +lower of the two top rails, notching out the posts +<span class='pagenum'>[17]</span> +as is necessary to bring the inner edge of these rails +in position. Fasten to the posts. Miter and place +the top rails. The slats, it will be noted, are fastened +to the bottom from the outer side and to the +lower of the two top rails from the inner side. Brass-headed +tacks such as upholsterers use are required.</p> + +<p>In finishing, sandpaper all parts and then apply a +coat of boiled linseed oil. Allow this to stand a +half hour or so and then wipe the surface clean. +After this has dried thoroughly apply a thin coating +of shellac and allow it to harden. Sand the shellac +when hard with No. 00 sandpaper and then apply +several coats of wax, polishing in the usual manner.</p> + +<p>Two pairs of castors will add to the ease with +which the box may be moved about.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_FERN_STAND" id="A_FERN_STAND"></a>A FERN STAND</h2> + + +<p>When making the fern stand shown in the accompanying +sketch use quarter-sawed oak if possible, +as this wood is the most suitable for finishing +in the different mission stains. Considerable labor +can be saved in its construction by ordering the +stock from the mill ready cut to length, squared +and sanded. Order the following pieces:</p> + + +<ul><li>4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 30 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>8 side rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 shelf supports, 3/4 by 1 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 top, 3/4 by 16 by 16 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 shelf, 3/4 by 15 by 15 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>16 slats, 3/8 by 3 by 5 in., S-4-S.</li></ul> + + + +<p>The legs are made first. Be sure they are square +and of equal length. The mortises can be laid out +and cut or they can be left until the tenons on the +side rails are all made, then marked and cut from +<span class='pagenum'>[18]</span> +each tenon. The top rails and the slats are exactly +alike for the four sides, as the table is square. In +addition to the tenons on the rails, grooves should +be cut in each for the ends of the slats to fit into +as shown in the cross section in the detail drawing. +Holes should be cut in the slats as shown.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_the_Fern_Stand" id="Detail_of_the_Fern_Stand"></a> +<img src="images/i-018.jpg" width="600" height="533" alt="Detail of the Fern Stand" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Fern Stand</span> +</div> + +<p>The top board should have the corners cut out +to fit around the posts. It is held in place by means +of screws through cleats which are fastened to the +inner sides of the top rails.</p> + +<p>The bottom board or shelf rests upon two rails +that are mortised into the posts as shown. The top +and bottom boards should be of one piece if possible, +otherwise two or more boards will have to be glued +together.</p> + +<p>Before gluing up the joints see that all the pieces +<span class='pagenum'>[19]</span> +fit together square and tight. The posts and rails +should be glued and assembled, then the top and +bottom boards put in place to hold the frame square +when the clamps are put on.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 334px;"> +<a name="Finished_Stand_in_Quartered_Oak" id="Finished_Stand_in_Quartered_Oak"></a> +<img src="images/i-019.jpg" width="334" height="600" alt="Finished Stand +in Quartered Oak" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Finished Stand +in Quartered Oak</span> +</div> + +<p>Leave to dry for about 24 hours before removing +the clamps. Fasten the top and bottom boards in +place and then go over the stand with fine sandpaper +and remove all surplus glue and rough spots.<span class='pagenum'>[20]</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_WARDROBE" id="A_WARDROBE"></a>A WARDROBE</h2> + + +<p>The wardrobe or clothes closet shown in the accompanying +sketch and detail drawing will be found +a great convenience in a bedroom where closet space +is limited or where there is no closet at all. It provides +ample room for hanging suits, dresses and +other wearing apparel, as well as space for boots +and shoes. It can be made of any of the several +furniture woods in common use, but quarter-sawed +oak will be found to give the most pleasing effect. +The stock should be ordered from the mill ready +cut to length, squared and sanded. In this way +much labor will be saved. The following pieces +will be needed:</p> + + +<ul><li>4 posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 64-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 front rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 top and 1 bottom board, each 3/4 by 18-1/2 by 37 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 top back rail, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 lower back rail, 3/4 by 4 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>6 end rails, 3/4 by 6 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>4 end uprights, 3/4 by 4 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>8 end panels, 3/8 by 7-1/2 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>5 shelves, 3/4 by 17-3/4 by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 4-3/4 by 8-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 door, 3/4 by 7-3/4 by 10 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 shelf partition, 3/4 by 10 by 19 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 7 by 17 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 drawer front, 3/4 by 8 by 17 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 partition (several pieces), 3/4 by 19-1/2 by 57-3/4 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>4 door uprights, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 57 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 top rails, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 middle rails, 3/4 by 6 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 lower rails, 3/4 by 4-1/2 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>4 center uprights, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 23 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>8 panels, 3/8 by 6 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>4 pieces, 3/8 by 4-3/4 by 19 in., soft wood.</li> +<li>2 pieces, 3/8 by 8 by 19 in., soft wood.</li> +<li>2 pieces, 3/8 by 4-1/4 by 8 in., soft wood.</li> +<li>4 pieces, 1/2 by 7 by 19 in., soft wood.</li> +<li>3 pieces, 1/2 by 16-1/2 by 19 in., soft wood.</li> +<li>2 pieces, 1/2 by 6-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., soft wood.</li> +<li>2 pieces, 1/2 by 8 by 19 in., soft wood.</li> +<li>1 piece, 1/2 by 7-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., soft wood.</li> +<li>1 back (several pieces), 3/8 by 36 by 58 in., S-2-S.</li></ul> + +<p><span class='pagenum'>[21]</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 419px;"> +<a name="The_Wardrobe_Complete" id="The_Wardrobe_Complete"></a> +<img src="images/i-021.jpg" width="419" height="600" alt="The Wardrobe Complete" title="" /> +<span class="caption">The Wardrobe Complete</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'>[22]</span></p> + +<p>First be sure the posts are perfectly square and +of equal length. The upper ends can be chamfered +or rounded if desired. The two front posts are +alike, as are the back ones. The mortises should be +laid out in each pair of posts and then cut with a +sharp chisel, or they can be left until the tenons +are all made, and then marked and cut from each +tenon. Grooves should be cut on one side of all +the posts to take the end panels.</p> + +<p>The front and lower back rails are plain except +for the tenons at each end, but the end rails and the +center uprights should have grooves cut for the +panels the same as the posts. The top back rail +serves as a top back board and should have the corners +rounded as shown in the detail drawing.</p> + +<p>The frame can now be assembled. Glue should +be used on all the joints as it makes them much +stiffer. Be careful to get the frame together perfectly +square, or it will be hard to fit the doors and +the shelves.</p> + +<p>The top and bottom boards should have the corners +cut to clear the posts. The closet is divided +into two compartments by a partition. This can be +made of plain boards or panels similar to those in +the ends, as desired. Place the shelves in position +as shown. They are held in place by means of +cleats and screws. The one shelf has a partition in +its center with a door on one side and two small +drawers on the other. Drawers should be fitted to +three of the other compartments. They are made +in the usual manner except that the front boards +should be cut out at the top for a handhold as +shown.</p> + +<p>The doors are fitted by a tenon and mortise joint +<span class='pagenum'>[23]</span> +at the ends. They have a centerpiece and panels +to match the ends of the closet. Suitable hinges +and a catch should be supplied. These can be purchased +at any hardware store.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 535px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_the_Wardrobe" id="Detail_of_the_Wardrobe"></a> +<img src="images/i-023.jpg" width="535" height="600" alt="Detail of the Wardrobe" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Wardrobe</span> +</div><p> +<span class='pagenum'>[24]</span></p> + +<p>The backing is put on in the usual manner. It +should be finished on the front side.</p> + +<p>When complete, the closet should be carefully +gone over with fine sandpaper and all glue and +rough spots removed. Apply stain of the desired +color. This may be any of the many mission stains +supplied by the trade for this purpose.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_FINISH" id="A_FINISH"></a>A FINISH</h2> + + +<p>An appropriate finish is obtained as follows: +First thoroughly scrape and sandpaper the various +parts, then apply a coat of brown Flemish water +stain. Allow this to dry well, then sand it lightly +with No. 00 sandpaper to lay the grain. Again apply +the Flemish stain, but this time have it weakened +by the addition of an equal amount of water. +When dry, sand again as on the first coat. Upon +the second coat of stain apply a thin coat of shellac. +This is to protect the high lights from the stain in +the filler which is to follow. Sand lightly, then apply +a paste filler of a sufficiently dark shade to make +a dark field for the brown Flemish. Clean off the +surplus and polish in the usual manner.</p> + +<p>Upon the filler, after it has hardened overnight, +apply a coat of orange shellac. Successively apply +several coats of some good rubbing varnish. Polish +the first coats with haircloth or curled hair, and the +last with pulverized pumice stone, mixed with raw +linseed or crude oil. +</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'>[25]</span></p> +<h2><a name="AN_OAK_TABLE" id="AN_OAK_TABLE"></a>AN OAK TABLE</h2> + + +<p>The accompanying illustration shows another +style of a mission table. The stock for this table if +ordered as follows and sanded will require only the +work of making the joints and putting them +together:</p> + + +<ul><li>4 posts, 2 in, square 30-5/8 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>4 upper rails, 7/8 by 6-1/2 by 22-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 lower rails, 7/8 by 3 by 22-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 top pieces, 7/8 by 12-1/2 by 24-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>6 slats, 3/8 by 3-1/2 by 15-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>1 stretcher, 7/8 by 8-1/2 by 21-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li></ul> + + + +<p>This table may be made with mortise and tenon +joints or with dowels as desired. If dowels are used, +the upper and lower rails should be made 2 in. +shorter than shown in the drawing.</p> + +<p>Be sure to get the pieces for the posts with their +surfaces square to each other and their ends sawed +square off. This will simplify the assembling a great +deal. Make the posts exactly the same length, 30-1/2 +in., and chamfer a 3/8-in, bevel on their tops.</p> + +<p>Square up the four upper rails, 6 by 22 in., marking +the working face and edge to work from when +laying out the tenons later. Square up the two +lower rails, 2-1/2 by 22 in. These must be exactly the +same length as the upper rails. The two ends of the +table having the slats should be glued up first. Lay +out the tenons on the upper and lower rails for these +two ends and be sure to work from the marked face +and edges, using a knife line. Cut the tenons, and, +by placing them against the posts in the exact position +they are to occupy, mark the places for the +mortises. These joints should be numbered so that +each mortise may be cut to fit its own tenon. +<span class='pagenum'>[26]</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_Construction" id="Detail_of_Construction"></a> +<img src="images/i-026a.jpg" width="600" height="338" alt="Detail of Construction" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of Construction</span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'>[27]</span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 546px;"> +<a name="Finished_Table" id="Finished_Table"></a> +<img src="images/i-026b.jpg" width="546" height="600" alt="Finished Table" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Finished Table</span> +</div> + + +<p>Square up the slats, 3 by 15-1/8 in., and cut mortises +in the upper and lower rails 1/4 in. deep to let them +in. The number of these slats, their size and spacing +may be arranged to suit one's own idea. Put +the posts, upper and lower rails, and slats together +without glue first to determine if the parts fit properly, +and then glue and clamp them together. Hot +glue will hold best, if the room and lumber are +warm; if not, it is best to use ordinary liquid glue. +While the glue on these two ends of the table is setting, +the other upper rails, top, and stretcher may +be finished.</p> + +<p>The top will have to be made of two or three +pieces joined together with dowels and glue. If possible, +use only two boards and be sure the grain +in both pieces runs the same way when they are put +together.</p> + +<p>After the ends which were glued have set at least +24 hours, the clamps may be taken off and the other +two upper rails tenoned and mortised in place. The +stretcher may be held with two 3/8-in. dowels in each +end, or with two round-head screws put through the +lower rails. When gluing up the whole table, be +sure the sides are square to each other. The top +may now be squared up 24 by 24 in. and the corners +cut out for the top of the posts. The top may be fastened +as shown at A and B in the drawing, or by +cleats screwed to the inside of the upper rails and +top.</p> + +<p>Before staining, be sure that all surplus glue is +scraped off and the surfaces sanded clean. A weathered +or fumed oak stain is suitable for this table. A +good weathered oak stain may be made by mixing a +little drop black ground in oil with turpentine and +a little linseed oil. Put this stain on with a brush +<span class='pagenum'>[28]</span> +and allow to stand until it begins to flatten or dull, +then rub off across the grain with a rag or piece of +cotton waste. When thoroughly dry, apply one coat +of very thin shellac. After this has dried, finish with +two coats of wax. The shellac prevents the turpentine +in the wax from rubbing out the stain. To get +a good wax finish the work should dry until it will +not show finger marks, before rubbing.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="BOOK_TROUGH" id="BOOK_TROUGH"></a>BOOK TROUGH</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_Book_Trough" id="Detail_of_Book_Trough"></a> +<img src="images/i-028.jpg" width="600" height="369" alt="Detail of Book Trough" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of Book Trough</span> +</div> + +<p>A very cheap but attractive book trough is shown +in the accompanying photograph. This piece of +mission furniture will be found useful in the home +or office and can be made by anyone who has a slight +knowledge of tools. The material should be either +oak or chestnut, which can be secured from the planing +<span class='pagenum'>[29]</span> +mill dressed and sandpapered ready to cut the +tenons and mortises. The stock needed will be as +follows:</p> + + +<ul><li>2 ends, 7/8 in. by 10 in. by 31 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>1 shelf, 7/8 in. by 10 in. by 35 in., S-1-S.</li> +<li>2 trough pieces, 7/8 in. by 4 in. by 35 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>8 keys, 5/8 in. by 5/8 in. by 3 in.</li></ul> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 489px;"> +<a name="Book_Trough_Complete" id="Book_Trough_Complete"></a> +<img src="images/i-029.jpg" width="489" height="600" alt="Book Trough Complete" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Book Trough Complete</span> +</div> + +<p>The two end pieces should be made first with the +top corners rounded off and the lower end, which is +of simple design, can be cut out with a bracket saw +<span class='pagenum'>[30]</span> +and smoothed with a wood rasp. The mortises +should then be laid out according to the sketch and +cut, by first boring 3/4-in. holes and finishing with +a chisel, being careful to keep all edges clean and +free from slivers.</p> + +<p>The shelf can now be made by cutting a double-key +tenon at each end to fit the end pieces. The +space between the two tenons at each end can be +cut out with a bracket saw and finished with a rasp. +The key holes should be mortised as shown in the +sketch. The trough pieces are made in a similar +manner, care being taken to have all tenons and +mortises perfectly square and a good fit, so the +trough when assembled will have a neat and +workmanlike appearance. The trough can be +finished in any one of the many mission finishes +which are supplied by the trade for this purpose.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="AN_OAK_SERVING_TABLE" id="AN_OAK_SERVING_TABLE"></a>AN OAK SERVING TABLE</h2> + + +<p>The serving table is another useful piece of furniture +that can be made in mission style. This table +should be made in quarter-sawed oak and stained +very light. The stock order is as follows:</p> + + +<ul><li>2 posts, 2 by 2 by 37 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 posts, 2 by 2 by 31 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 top, 1 by 21 by 40 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 side rails, 3/4 by 3 by 34-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>4 end rails, 3/4 by 3 by 15-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>1 back panel, 3/4 by 4 by 34-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>1 stretcher, 1 by 5 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 slat, 1/2 by 1-1/2 by 36 in., S-4-S.</li></ul> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 584px;"> +<a name="Serving_Table_Complete" id="Serving_Table_Complete"></a> +<img src="images/i-031.jpg" width="584" height="600" alt="Serving Table Complete" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Serving Table Complete</span> +</div> + +<p>The four posts are ordered 1 in. longer than necessary +for squaring to length and the two back posts +should be chamfered 1/4 in. on top, as they are the +longest and project above the back panel. All of the +<span class='pagenum'>[31]</span> +posts are cut tapering for a space of 4 in. from the +bottom ends. Mortises in the posts and tenons on the +rails are laid out and cut as shown by the dimensions +in the drawing. These parts are then well glued and +put together. The top, which should be of well seasoned +wood, is cut to fit around the back posts so the +back edge and the back side of the posts are flush. +The back panel is placed in mortises cut in the corners +of the back posts. This is done so the back surface of +the panel will be flush the same as the edge of the top. +The slat is fastened with round-headed brass screws +<span class='pagenum'>[32]</span> +on the front of the two back posts about half way +between the top and the ends of the posts.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_Serving_Table" id="Detail_of_Serving_Table"></a> +<img src="images/i-032.jpg" width="600" height="256" alt="Detail of Serving Table" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of Serving Table</span> +</div> + +<p>The top may be fastened to the rails by one of two +methods. One way is to use a small button made of +wood and so mortised as to set in the rails and then +fastened to the top with screws. About six of these +buttons will be sufficient to hold the top in place. The +other method is to bore a hole slanting on the inside +of the rails, directing the bit toward the top, which +will make a seat—if not cut too deep—for a screw that +can be turned direct into the top.</p> + +<p>The glue must be removed from about the joints +and the surfaces smoothed over with fine sandpaper +before applying the stain. The directions for staining +will be found on the can in which it is sold. +The grain of the wood will show up well if the surface +is given a dull waxed finish after staining. +</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'>[33]</span></p> +<h2><a name="AN_UMBRELLA_STAND" id="AN_UMBRELLA_STAND"></a>AN UMBRELLA STAND</h2> + + +<div class="figright" style="width: 318px;"> +<a name="Umbrella_Stand" id="Umbrella_Stand"></a> +<img src="images/i-033.jpg" width="318" height="600" alt="Umbrella Stand" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Umbrella Stand</span> +</div> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 240px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_Umbrella_Stand" id="Detail_of_Umbrella_Stand"></a> +<img src="images/i-034.jpg" width="240" height="600" alt="Detail of Umbrella Stand" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of Umbrella Stand</span> +</div> + +<p>The umbrella stand shown in the accompanying illustration +will be found quite appropriate for the hall +or reception room that is furnished in mission style. +It can be made of any of the furniture woods, but +quarter-sawed oak gives the best results. The stock +necessary to make this stand can be secured from the +mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded, and is +given in the following list:</p> + +<ul><li>4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 28 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>4 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 10 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>4 lower rails, 7/8 by 3 by 10 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>4 slats, 3/8 by 3 by 20 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>1 bottom, 7/8 by 10 by 10 in.</li></ul> + +<p>First square up the posts and bevel the tops as +shown in the detail sketch. Place them side by side, +on a flat surface with the ends +square and lay out the mortises +with a try-square on all four +pieces at the same time. This +will insure your getting them +all straight and of the same +height. Now lay out the tenons +on the rails in the same manner +and cut them to fit the mortises +in the posts. Mortises +should also be cut in the rails +for the ends of the side slats as +shown. Try all the joints and +see that they fit tight and +square. Glue two sides of the +stand together and let them dry +for at least 24 hours, then glue the remaining parts, +being careful to get everything together perfectly +square.<span class='pagenum'>[34]</span></p> + +<p>The bottom board can now be fitted in place. It +should have a hole cut in +it for the drip pan. The pan +should be about 6 or 7 in. in +diameter. One suitable for +the purpose can be purchased +in any hardware +store. The bottom board +can be fastened to the rails +with nails driven from the +under side, or cleats can be +nailed to the rails for it to +rest upon.</p> + + + + + +<p>When the stand is complete, +scrape all glue from +about the joints and go over +the whole with fine sandpaper, +removing all rough +spots. Apply the finish you +like best, or the one that will +match your other furniture.</p> + +<p>Should the builder want +an entire hand-made stand, +the drip pan may be beaten +into shape from sheet brass +or copper. This kind of +work is known as repoussé. After beating the pan +into shape, it can be finished in antique, old copper +or given a polished surface, as desired.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'>[35]</span></p> +<h2><a name="A_CHAFING-DISH_BUFFET" id="A_CHAFING-DISH_BUFFET"></a>A CHAFING-DISH BUFFET</h2> + + +<p>The chafing-dish buffet is something very convenient +and attractive for the dining room. For the +best effect it should be made of quartered oak, +stained brown or weathered and trimmed with brass +hardware.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 429px;"> +<a name="Buffet_in_Quartered_Oak" id="Buffet_in_Quartered_Oak"></a> +<img src="images/i-035.jpg" width="429" height="600" alt="Buffet in Quartered Oak" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Buffet in Quartered Oak</span> +</div><p> +<span class='pagenum'>[36]</span></p> + +<p>To save a great deal of uninteresting labor, secure +the following pieces of stock, surfaced on four +sides and cut to length:</p> + + +<ul><li>4 legs, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 36 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>4 rails, 7/8 by 4 by 10 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 rails, 7/8 by 3 by 10 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 panels, 3/8 by 9-3/8 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 panel, 3/8 by 6-1/2 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 shelves, 7/8 by 12 by 19 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 top, 7/8 by 16 by 20 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 stiles for door, 7/8 by 2 by 12 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 rails for door, 7/8 by 3 by 10 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 back, 7/8 by 12 by 13 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>8 slats, 3/8 by 1 by 8 in., S-4-S.</li></ul> + + + +<p>Begin the work on the rails for the sides of +the stand. Have them all squared up to exactly the +same length and to the correct width and thickness. +Mark the tenons on the ends of each and cut them +with a saw and chisel.</p> + +<p>When this is finished, try the legs to see that they +are all the same length and that their surfaces are +square with each other. Next mark the mortises in +the legs for the tenons of the rails. To make the +mortises, first bore to depth with a bit 1/8 in, smaller +than the width of the mortise and cut to the line +with a chisel.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a name="Method_of_Fastening_with_Screws" id="Method_of_Fastening_with_Screws"></a> +<img src="images/i-036.jpg" width="400" height="138" alt="Method of Fastening with Screws" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Method of Fastening with Screws</span> +</div> + +<p>Before gluing up the sides, cut the mortises in +two lower rails for the tenons on the ends of +the shelves. These tenons, with the smaller mortises +<span class='pagenum'>[37]</span> +in them for the keys, should be cut first. +Square up the two side panels and cut grooves 3/8 +in. wide and 1/4 in. deep for them in the rails and +part of the legs.</p> + +<p>Make the eight slats 8 in. long, 1 in. wide and +3/8 in. thick, and cut mortises for them in the two +upper rails.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_the_Chafing-Dish_Buffet" id="Detail_of_the_Chafing-Dish_Buffet"></a> +<img src="images/i-037.jpg" width="600" height="542" alt=""/> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Chafing-Dish Buffet</span> +</div> + +<p>The two sides of the buffet are now ready to +be glued up and clamped. While the glue on these +is setting, make the door. The rails are mortised +<span class='pagenum'>[38]</span> +into the stiles 1/2 in. and both are grooved to receive +the panel. It is best to get the stock a little +full for the door so that it may be made up a little +larger than necessary and planed down to fit.</p> + +<p>There only remains to fit in the shelves and fasten +the top and back. The top and back are held with +screws as shown in sketch.</p> + +<p>Taper the keys only slightly, otherwise they will +keep working loose.</p> + +<p>Stain with two coats of weathered oak, give one +coat of thin shellac to fix the stain and two coats +of wax for a soft-gloss finish.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_WRITING_DESK" id="A_WRITING_DESK"></a>A WRITING DESK</h2> + + +<p>The desk shown in the illustration was made of +plain-sawed white oak. The copper lighting fixtures +were made by the amateur as were the hinges +and the drawer pulls. The doors are fitted with +art-glass panels. The following stock list is needed:</p> + + +<ul><li>1 top, 3/4 by 22-1/2 by 41 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>4 posts, 2 by 2 by 31 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 rails, 3/4 by 6-1/4 by 19 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 rails, 3/4 by 6-1/4 by 35 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 rails, 3/4 by 3-1/4 by 19 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>1 stretcher, 3/4 by 3-1/4 by 35 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 14 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>4 drawer sides, 1/2 by 4-1/4 by 19 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 drawer backs, 3/8 by 4 by 14 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 19 by 14 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>4 slides, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 19 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>8 guides, 3/4 by 2 by 10 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 cabinet posts, 1 by 1 by 16 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>4 cabinet posts, 1 by 1 by 11 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 back, 3/4 by 16 by 35 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>1 shelf, 3/4 by 8 by 35 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 shelves, 3/4 by 8 by 15 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>4 door pieces, 5/8 by 1 by 15 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>8 door pieces, 5/8 by 1 by 4 in., S-2-S.</li></ul> + + + +<p>Square the legs to length and lay out and cut the +<span class='pagenum'>[39]</span> +mortises thereon. Lay off the tenons on the rails, +after having squared the rails to length and width, +and cut them.</p> + +<p>Work up the top of the table and then the drawer +stock and cabinet. Assemble the ends of the frame +first, using good hot glue and enough clamps to +hold the parts together properly. After the glue +has hardened on these, the clamps may be removed +and the front, back rails and the stretcher +assembled.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Writing_Desk_Made_of_Plain-Sawed_Oak" id="Writing_Desk_Made_of_Plain-Sawed_Oak"></a> +<img src="images/i-039.jpg" width="600" height="591" alt="Writing Desk Made of Plain-Sawed Oak" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Writing Desk Made of Plain-Sawed Oak</span> +</div> + +<p>While the glue is hardening on the main frame +<span class='pagenum'>[40]</span> +the top cabinet may be built and assembled. This +cabinet is detachable from the table proper and is +to be held in place by means of cleats upon the +back. These cleats are not specified in the bill; +they may be obtained from scrap stock.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_the_Writing_Desk" id="Detail_of_the_Writing_Desk"></a> +<img src="images/i-040.jpg" width="600" height="423" alt="Detail of the Writing Desk" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Writing Desk</span> +</div> + +<p>For a piece of woodwork of this style some of the +softer browns of the mission stains will be most +appropriate. After all parts have been thoroughly +cleaned by scraping and sandpapering, a stain may +be applied. Allow this to dry, then sand it lightly +and apply a thin coat of shellac. Sand the shellac +lightly and apply a filler of a color to match the +stain, but darker in tone, of course. Clean off the +surplus in the usual manner and then apply a coat +of shellac. Sand this lightly and apply several coats +of some good polishing wax.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'>[41]</span></p> +<h2><a name="MUSIC_RACK_AND_BOOKSTAND" id="MUSIC_RACK_AND_BOOKSTAND"></a>MUSIC RACK AND BOOKSTAND</h2> + + +<p>The illustration shows a very handy music and +bookstand, which also can be used at the bedside as +a reading stand. The following list of +material will be required for construction:</p> + + +<ul><li>1 standard, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 37 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 horizontal, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 15 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 crosspiece, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 14 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 crosspiece, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 12 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 braces, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 9 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 board, 1/2 by 8 by 13 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>4 blocks, 1-1/8 in. square.</li> +<li>2 gauge clamps.</li> +<li>1 strip, 1/2 by 1 by 13 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>8 round-head brass screws.</li> +<li>1 brass rod, 1/4 in. in diameter and 12 in, long.</li> +<li>1 brass piece, 1/4 by 3/4 by 10 in.</li></ul> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 289px;"> +<a name="Complete_Stand" id="Complete_Stand"></a> +<img src="images/i-041.jpg" width="289" height="600" alt="Complete Stand" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Complete Stand</span> +</div> + +<p>Cut a tenon on the lower end of the +upright and make a mortise in the +center of the long crosspiece to receive +the tenon. The horizontal has tenons +cut on both ends which fit into mortises +cut in the sides of both crosspieces. +The upper corners on the ends +of both crosspieces are cut sloping on +a 45-deg. angle. The blocks for the +feet are attached to the under side and +at the end on each crosspiece with +screws and hot +glue, the screw +heads being sunk +so that they will +not catch on carpets +or mar the floor.<span class='pagenum'>[42]</span> +The braces are attached with round-head screws +after they are cut on each end to fit the standard +and crosspiece.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 509px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_the_Stand" id="Detail_of_the_Stand"></a> +<img src="images/i-042.jpg" width="509" height="600" alt="Detail of the Stand" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Stand</span> +</div> + +<p>The book rest is cut from the board. The openings +are made by sawing the pieces out with a coping +<span class='pagenum'>[43]</span> +saw, and the edges are dressed up with a sharp +chisel. The lip strip is then glued to the lower edge +of the board.</p> + +<p>One end of the board is now fitted into a slot cut +in one of the gauge clamps. The slot must be cut +at the right angle to give the desired slope to the +book rest. The gauge clamps are joined with two +small square strips of oak as shown. The small rod +brace is flattened at both ends and a hole drilled in +each to fasten it with screws as shown. The brass +strip is bent in the middle at right angles and drilled +to receive screws for fastening it in the corner of +the upright and horizontal pieces.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_DICTIONARY_AND_MAGAZINE_STAND" id="A_DICTIONARY_AND_MAGAZINE_STAND"></a>A DICTIONARY AND MAGAZINE STAND</h2> + + +<p>The accompanying picture shows a stand that is +intended primarily for holding a large-size dictionary. +The shelves may be utilized for holding books, +magazines or sheet music. It will stand wear best +if made of some hard wood, such as oak. Of the +soft woods chestnut has the best grain for finishing, +being hardly distinguishable from red oak.</p> + +<p>The following pieces will be necessary:</p> + + +<ul><li>2 sides, 3/4 by 16 by 38-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 shelf, 3/4 by 15-1/2 by 21 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>1 shelf, 3/4 by 14 by 17 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>1 shelf, 3/4 by 13-1/2 by 21 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>1 top, 3/4 by 13 by 17 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>1 lip, 3/8 by 3/4 by 17 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>8 keys, 3/4 by 1 by 3-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li></ul> + + + +<p>Begin work on the sides by preparing a joint +edge on each piece and from this square up the +lower ends and square lines across the inner surfaces +<span class='pagenum'>[44]</span> +to indicate the positions of the lower edges of +the shelves.</p> + +<p>Next, smooth off the mill marks from the broad +surfaces of the shelves and square them to size on +one edge and the two ends.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_the_Dictionary_and_Magazine_Stand" id="Detail_of_the_Dictionary_and_Magazine_Stand"></a> +<img src="images/i-044.jpg" width="600" height="569" alt="Detail of the Dictionary and Magazine Stand" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Dictionary and Magazine Stand</span> +</div> +<p><span class='pagenum'>[45]</span></p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 358px;"> +<a name="Stand_Made_in_Oak" id="Stand_Made_in_Oak"></a> +<img src="images/i-045.jpg" width="358" height="600" alt="Stand Made in Oak" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Stand Made in Oak</span> +</div> + +<p>Return to the side pieces and lay out the outline, +but do not cut to these lines until the gains and +mortises which are to receive the ends of the shelves +and their tenons have been laid out and cut. Laying +out these outlines at this time is done so as to +<span class='pagenum'>[46]</span> +give the exact width the shelves are to have. These +dimensions can be determined by measuring across +the sides between the outlines at the points where +the shelves are to be placed.</p> + +<p>The shelves which have no tenons are to be let +into the sides 1/4 in. They should be shouldered +1/2 in. back from the edge so that the groove will not +show on the face.</p> + +<p>The lip on the front of the top shelf may be fastened +by means of very small brads, the heads of +which should be covered with putty, colored to +match the finish.</p> + +<p>A suitable finish may be obtained as follows:</p> + +<p>First see that all the mill marks are removed, +using a smooth plane and steel scraper and sandpaper, +then apply a coat of cathedral-oak water +stain. When dry, sandpaper lightly, using No. +00 paper. Apply a second coat of stain, diluting +it by the addition of an equal volume of water. This +is to produce a stronger contrast. Sand this lightly +and put on a very thin coat of shellac to bind the +filler and to prevent the stain in the filler which +follows from discoloring the high lights. Sand this +lightly and put on a coat of paste filler according to +the directions that will be found on the can. This +filler should be colored in the following proportions: +Light paste filler, 20 lb.; Van Dyke brown, 1 lb. +After the filler has hardened, sand it lightly and put +on a coat of orange shellac. Follow this with several +coats of some good rubbing varnish. The first +coats should be rubbed with haircloth or curled +hair, and the last with powdered pumice stone and +raw linseed or crude oil.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'>[47]</span></p> +<h2><a name="A_LEATHER_BACK_ARM_CHAIR" id="A_LEATHER_BACK_ARM_CHAIR"></a>A LEATHER BACK ARM CHAIR</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 478px;"> +<a name="Arm_Chair_Complete" id="Arm_Chair_Complete"></a> +<img src="images/i-047.jpg" width="478" height="600" alt="Arm Chair Complete" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Arm Chair Complete</span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'>[48]</span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_the_Arm_Chair" id="Detail_of_the_Arm_Chair"></a> +<img src="images/i-048.jpg" width="600" height="412" alt="Detail of the Arm Chair" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Arm Chair</span> +</div> + +<p>A mission arm chair of simple design and construction +is shown in the accompanying illustration. +This chair is suitable for any room of the house +and can be made of wood to match other furniture. +Quarter-sawed oak is the wood most generally used, +and it is also very easy to obtain. The stock can be +ordered from the mill, cut to length, squared and +<span class='pagenum'>[49]</span> +sanded. Following is a list of the material that will +be needed:</p> + + +<ul><li>2 front legs, 2 by 2 by 26-3/4 in.</li> +<li>2 back legs, 2 by 4 by 43 in.</li> +<li>2 arm rests, 1 by 4 by 26 in.</li> +<li>5 rails, 3/4 by 4 by 21-1/2 in.</li> +<li>5 rails, 3/4 by 2 by 2-1/2 in. .</li> +<li>2 back pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 16-1/2 in.</li> +<li>1 piece leather, 31 in, square.</li> +<li>1 piece burlap, 28 in, square.</li> +<li>2 pieces leather, 13 by 18 in.</li> +<li>2 pieces burlap, 13 by 18 in.</li> +<li>1 box 8 oz. tacks.</li> +<li>5-1/2 doz. ornamental nails.</li></ul> + + + +<p>Start with the front legs. Cut a tenon 1-1/4 in. +square and 3/4 in, long on one end to fit the arm rests. +The mortises for the side rails are cut 1/2 in. wide and +7/8 in, deep. The tenons on the rails are cut to fit +these mortises, care being taken to get them all the +same length between shoulders. The back legs are +cut with an offset of 2 in. as shown in the detail drawing +and also have mortises cut in them for the back +crosspieces. The upright pieces in the back are fastened +into the crosspieces by means of tenons and +mortises, and should be in place when the crosspieces +are fastened to the legs.</p> + +<p>The arms are cut from the 1 by 4 by 26-in. pieces. +Be careful to get them so they will pair. The outside +edge can be either curved or straight as desired. +The front ends of the arms are held in place by mortises +which fit over the tenons on the ends of the +front legs, while the back ends are held in place by +round-headed screws as shown.</p> + +<p>The chair is now ready to be glued. Be sure to +get the parts together perfectly square, and when +dry scrape off all surplus glue around the joints, for +stain will not adhere to glue and a white spot will +be the result of failing to remove it. Go over the +parts carefully with fine sandpaper and remove all +<span class='pagenum'>[50]</span> +rough marks. Then apply the stain you wish to use. +To make the seat, first fit boards in the bottom and +nail them to the side rails as shown. Fill the space +with hair or elastic cotton felt to about 3 in. above +the edge of the rails. Bind this down tightly with a +piece of burlap and tack the edges to the rails. Cut +out the corners of the burlap so that it will fit about +the posts. Put the leather on over this and tack the +edges to the bottoms of the rails. Then finish with +the ornamental nails as shown.</p> + +<p>To finish the back, first tack a piece of burlap over +the opening, then place a layer of hair or cotton felt +on this about 1 in. thick. Stretch the leather over +this and fasten with ornamental nails. The back side +is finished in the same manner, except that the hair +is omitted.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_WALL_SHELF" id="A_WALL_SHELF"></a>A WALL SHELF</h2> + + +<p>Coarse-grained woods make up into furniture and +take a more satisfactory finish than close-grained +woods. For this reason chestnut or oak is suggested +for this shelf. Chestnut has a beautiful grain and is +soft and easily worked.</p> + +<p>There will be needed the following pieces:</p> + + +<ul><li>Sides, 2 pieces, 3/4 by 7-1/4 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>Lower shelf, 1 piece, 3/4 by 6-1/4 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>Upper shelf, 1 piece, 3/4 by 4-3/4 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>Lower back, 1 piece, 3/8 by 3-1/2 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>Upper back, 1 piece, 3/8 by 3 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li></ul> + + + +<p>In making out this stock bill the pieces have been +specified 1/4 in. wider and 1/2 in, longer than the finished +piece is to be to allow for squaring up. The thicknesses +are specified mill-planed exact so that all that is +necessary is to merely plane off the mill-marks from +the two broad surfaces. +<span class='pagenum'>[51]</span></p> + +<p>It is quite possible that one may have a particular +space or a particular set of books to place in the shelf. +In such a case the length of the horizontals should be +lengthened or shortened to meet the particular demands +when ordering the lumber.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="Complete_Wall_Shelf" id="Complete_Wall_Shelf"></a> +<img src="images/i-051.jpg" width="500" height="297" alt="Complete Wall Shelf" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Complete Wall Shelf</span> +</div> + +<p>Begin work by squaring the horizontals to size. +They are to be all of the same length. Next shape up +the end pieces. The amount of slope for the front +edges is indicated on the drawing. After all these pieces +have been squared up and the mill-marks removed, the +dadoes or grooves and gains may be laid out and cut.</p> + +<p>Beginners are prone to underestimate the importance +of getting all the mill-marks off before putting on any +finish. When boards are planed at the mill the planing +is done by means of two or four knives revolving +above or below the board—sometimes both above and +below at the same time. These knives leave the surfaces +filled with little ridges and hollows across the +grain. These hollows, though they are hardly visible +<span class='pagenum'>[52]</span> +to the eye on the unfinished surface, show up as ugly +streaks upon the surface after it has had a finish of +stain and filler applied.</p> + +<p>The joints here used are typical and the beginner +can readily find how they are to be made from any +good book on wood-working.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Wall_Shelf_Detail" id="Wall_Shelf_Detail"></a> +<img src="images/i-052.jpg" width="600" height="242" alt="Wall Shelf Detail" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Wall Shelf Detail</span> +</div> + +<p>There are several ways of fastening the parts. They +may be fastened by means of round-head blued screws. +They may be fastened with carriage screws. The one +in the illustration was put together with ordinary wire +nails and the heads of these covered with ornamental +heads to represent old-fashioned hand-wrought nails.</p> + +<p>It will be found easier to apply the finish of stain +and filler before the parts are assembled. A suitable +finish is obtained as follows: After the parts are +thoroughly sanded, put on a coat of Filipino water +stain, wiping it off with an old cloth before it has had +time to soak into the wood very much. Allow this to +dry. Then sand lightly, using No. 00 paper, after +which fill the pores of the wood with a black paste +filler—directions will be found on the can. Follow +this, when hardened, with several coats of floor wax.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'>[53]</span></p> +<h2><a name="A_PEDESTAL" id="A_PEDESTAL"></a>A PEDESTAL</h2> + + +<p>The pedestal shown in the accompanying illustration is another piece of +furniture that can be made in the mission style. It is very simple in +design and construction, and can be made by anyone who has a few simple +tools and a slight knowledge of their use. It is best to make it of +quarter-sawed oak as this is the most easily procured wood and also +looks the best when finished. If you order the material from the mill +ready cut to length, squared and sanded, much hard labor will be saved. +Following is a list of the material needed:</p> + + +<ul><li>1 top, 3/4 by 12 by 12 in., S-1-S.</li> +<li>1 bottom, 3/4 by 12 by 12 in., S-1-S</li> +<li>8 pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 11 in.</li> +<li>2 sides, 3/4 by 5 by 26 in., S-1-S.</li> +<li>2 sides, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 26 in.</li> +<li>1 piece, 3/4 by 6 by 6 in.</li> +<li>4 blocks, 1 in. square.</li></ul> + + +<p>Having the boards for the post cut to the proper length and square, nail +them together as shown in the detail drawing. Use finishing nails, then +set the heads and fill the holes with putty. Next, nail the 3/4 by 6-in. +piece on one end of the post leaving the edges projecting even on <span class='pagenum'>[54]</span> +all sides. Pick out the best board for the top. On the under side and +1/2. in. in from the edges, nail four of the 3/4 by 2 by 11-in. pieces +which have been previously mitered as shown in the plan view. Now fasten +this top to the post by nailing through the projecting edge of the top +piece into the top board. Be careful to get this top on square with the +post and exactly in center.</p> + +<p>The bottom board is made in the same manner as the top board and is +nailed to the lower end of the post as shown. Four 1-in. square blocks +should be fastened to the bottom for the pedestal to rest on.</p> + +<p>When complete, sandpaper smooth and apply any one of the many mission +stains that are supplied by the trade for this purpose.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px"> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 235px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_Pedestal" id="Detail_of_Pedestal"></a> +<img src="images/i-054.jpg" width="235" height="600" alt="Detail of Pedestal" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of Pedestal</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 218px;"> +<a name="Completed_Pedestal" id="Completed_Pedestal"></a> +<img src="images/i-053.jpg" width="218" height="500" alt="Completed Pedestal" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Completed Pedestal</span> +</div></div> + +<p style="clear: both;">After staining the wood, the +surface can be given a polished +or dull finish, as desired. Mission +furniture requires a dull finish, and this may be +obtained by applying a coat of wax, well rubbed on +the wood.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'>[55]</span></p> +<h2><a name="MAGAZINE_RACK" id="MAGAZINE_RACK"></a>MAGAZINE RACK</h2> + + +<p>The accompanying cut shows a magazine rack +that will find favor with many amateur wood-workers +on account of its simplicity in design and its rich, +massive appearance when properly finished. It is so +constructed that each piece may be polished, stained +and finished before it is finally put together. Quarter-sawed +oak is the best wood to use. Plain-sawed +oak looks well, but it is more liable to warp than +quarter-sawed and this is quite an element in pieces +as wide as the ones here used. Following is a list +of the material needed:</p> + +<ul><li>4 posts, 2 by 2 by 40 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>5 shelves, 1 by 14 by 24 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>20 F.H. screws, 2 in. long.</li></ul> + + + +<p>Considerable labor can be saved if the material be +ordered from the mill ready cut to length, squared +and sanded. The corner posts should be made first. +The most convenient and accurate method of laying +out the mortises is to square one end of each post +and lay them on the bench flat, with the squared +ends even with each other; then clamp them securely +and lay out the mortises on one side across +all four pieces at once; then loosen the clamp and +project the marks to the other side with a try-square. +Now saw along these marks, making each cut just +deep enough to bring the mortises diagonally across +the piece from one corner to the opposite corner as +shown in the detail sketch. Be careful not to get the +mortises wider than the shelves are thick. Bevel +the tops of the posts as shown.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 401px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_the_Magazine_Rack" id="Detail_of_the_Magazine_Rack"></a> +<img src="images/i-056.jpg" width="401" height="600" alt="Detail of the Magazine Rack" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Magazine Rack</span> +</div> +<p><span class='pagenum'>[56]</span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 380px;"> +<a name="Magazine_Rack_Complete" id="Magazine_Rack_Complete"></a> +<img src="images/i-057.jpg" width="380" height="600" alt="Magazine Rack Complete" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Magazine Rack Complete</span> +</div> + +<p>See that the ends of the shelves are square and +smooth, then set a scratch gauge so that the scriber +is just 2 in. from the face of the block and mark this +<span class='pagenum'>[57]</span> +distance off each way from the corner of the shelves. +Saw these corners diagonally across as shown, being +careful not to saw off too much. +<span class='pagenum'>[58]</span></p> + +<p>The parts can now be assembled. Place all the +parts in position, then pass a rope around each end +and twist it up tightly with a small stick. If this +is properly done, you can now pick up the rack and +handle it in any way you wish. The screws can +now be put in the corners. You can use flat-head +screws and plug the holes, or you can use round-head +blue screws and let the heads project. After +the screws are all in, dress off all unevenness where +the shelves are mortised into the posts, then mark +each shelf and post so that you can put it together +again after the parts are finished. Take the rack +apart and transfer the marks to some part of the +mortises and shelves that will not be covered with +the finish you intend to put on. Apply the finish +you wish to use and when the parts are thoroughly +dry they can be reassembled and your rack will be +complete.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_HALL_TREE" id="A_HALL_TREE"></a>A HALL TREE</h2> + + +<p>When making the hall tree as shown in the accompanying +illustration use quarter-sawed oak if possible, +as this wood is the most suitable for finishing in the +different mission stains. This is a very useful and attractive +piece of mission furniture and is also very +easy to construct. The stock can be purchased +ready cut to length, mill-planed and sandpapered on +four sides as given in the following list:</p> + + +<ul><li>1 post, 2 by 2 by 59 in.</li> +<li>4 posts, 2 by 2 by 10 in.</li> +<li>8 braces, 7/8 by 2 by 7-1/2 in.</li> +<li>4 arms, 7/8 by 2 by 5-3/4 in.</li></ul> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'>[59]</span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 419px;"> +<a name="Detail_and_Finished_View_of_Hall_Tree" id="Detail_and_Finished_View_of_Hall_Tree"></a> +<img src="images/i-059.jpg" width="419" height="600" alt="Detail and Finished View of Hall Tree" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail and Finished View of Hall Tree</span> +</div> + +<p>First square up all the posts and bevel them at the +tops as shown. Then cut the mortises making them +<span class='pagenum'>[60]</span> +1/2 in. wide and 7/8 in. deep. Cut the tenons on the +braces to fit these mortises. Be careful to get the distance +between the shoulders of the braces all of the +same length. A good way to do this is to place them +all side by side on a flat surface with the ends square +and lay them all out at once. The top arms can be +made in the same manner. The tenons should fit good +and tight in all the posts.</p> + +<p>The parts can now be glued and clamped together. +When they are dry, scrape all the surplus glue from +about the joints and go over the whole with fine sandpaper, +removing all rough spots. Apply the finish +you like best or the one that will match your other +furniture. Purchase a few hooks at a hardware store +and fasten in the upper arms as shown, and the hall +tree is complete.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_TABLE_FOR_THE_DEN" id="A_TABLE_FOR_THE_DEN"></a>A TABLE FOR THE DEN</h2> + + +<p>The table shown in the accompanying sketch is +especially appropriate for the den; it might be used +in any other part of the house as well. It may be +built of plain-sawed red oak, or of quarter-sawed +white oak. The wood should be thoroughly seasoned +and devoid of imperfections.</p> + +<p>Order the material as follows:</p> + + +<ul><li>1 top piece, 3/4 in. thick by 36 in. square, S-2-S.</li> +<li>4 legs, 2-1/2 in. square by 30 in. long, S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 upper horizontals, 1-1/8 by 2 by 36 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 lower horizontals, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 35 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>4 keys, 1/2 by 1 by 5 in., S-2-S.</li></ul> + + + +<p>Lay out and cut the circular top first. Next cut +the four legs to length. To get the slopes for the +ends of the legs and the shoulders of the tenons, lay +<span class='pagenum'>[61]</span> +out a full-sized drawing in pencil and lay the bevel +along these lines, adjusting the parts to the lines.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'>[62]</span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Table_Completed" id="Table_Completed"></a> +<img src="images/i-061.jpg" width="600" height="576" alt="Table Completed" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Table Completed</span> +</div> + +<p>The top horizontals have grooves cut on either +side to allow the posts to "set in." This is to give +the frame more rigidity. The lower horizontals or +stretchers are to be tenoned through the posts and +keyed. That the keys may be alike in size, a good +plan is to make them first, then make the mortises +in the stretchers to correspond. Work the keys to +the proper thickness, unless they were ordered so, +then to length and joint one edge straight and +square. Next lay off across the key the lines A and +B of the drawing so that A shall measure 1/2 in. and +B 3/8 in. Draw a sloping line through these points +<span class='pagenum'>[63]</span> +and work this edge of the key to size and shape. +Round the top of the key as shown. Then mortise, +in the tenon, for the key can then be laid out to 1/2 in. +for the top opening and 3/8 in. for the bottom.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 352px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_a_Den_Table" id="Detail_of_a_Den_Table"></a> +<img src="images/i-062.jpg" width="352" height="600" alt="Detail of a Den Table" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of a Den Table</span> +</div> + +<p>The most satisfactory finish for mission designs, +and the easiest to apply, is wax. It is an old finish +that was superseded by varnish. Our ancestors used +to make wax polish by "cutting" beeswax with turpentine. +Cut up the beeswax and add to it about +one-third its volume of turpentine. Heat to the boiling +point in a double boiler. Or, melt a quantity +of beeswax and to this add an equal volume of turpentine. +Care must be taken that the turpentine +shall not catch fire.</p> + +<p>Rapid drying and hardening waxes can be purchased +now-a-days. They require a smooth surface +and a thin application for a successful result. Too +much wax upon a rough surface will produce very +ugly, white, chalk-like spottings as the wax dries. +These are especially noticeable upon dark finishes. +Waxes colored black overcome this, but are not necessary +if the ordinary wax is properly applied. +1—Stain the wood, if a very dark finish is desired. +2—If the wood is coarse grained, put on one or two +coats of paste filler and rub it off carefully, that a +smooth surface may be prepared. Allow the stain +12 hours in which to dry, also each coat of filler. +3—With a soft cloth apply as thin a coating of wax +as can be and still cover the wood. Wax is in paste +form. 4—Allow this to stand five or ten minutes, +then rub briskly with a soft dry cloth to polish. +5—Let stand 24 hours, then apply another coat. +<span class='pagenum'>[64]</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Window_Seat" id="Window_Seat"></a> +<img src="images/i-064.jpg" width="600" height="405" alt=""/> +<span class="caption">WINDOW SEAT +Fig. 1—The Rough Cedar Box Without the Covering</span> +</div><p> +<span class='pagenum'>[65]</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_BURLAP-COVERED_WINDOW_SEAT" id="A_BURLAP-COVERED_WINDOW_SEAT"></a>A BURLAP-COVERED WINDOW SEAT</h2> + + +<p>A portable window seat of neat appearance, which +is designed to take the place of a cedar chest, is +shown in the accompanying sketch. If care is taken +to make the joints fit well, the box will be practically +airtight and mothproof, providing a place in which +to store extra bedding or furs. The following +list of materials will be needed:</p> + + +<ul><li>36 ft. 1-in. thick cedar boards for the box.</li> +<li><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">1 piece pine, 2 by 2 in. by 12 ft. long.</span></li> +<li>32 ft. of 1/4 by 2-in. oak strips.</li> +<li>54 ft. of 1/4 by 1-in. oak strips.</li> +<li>16 doz. R.H. 3/4-in, long brass screws.</li> +<li><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">1 piece green burlap, 24 by 48 in.</span></li> +<li><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">2 pieces green burlap, 20 by 44 in.</span></li> +<li><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">2 pieces green burlap, 20 by 20 in.</span></li> +<li>20 pieces red burlap, 3-1/4 in. square.</li></ul> + + + +<p>The box as shown in Fig. 1 is made first. Nail +the sides and the bottom to the ends, being careful +to get the box perfectly square. The corners can be +dovetailed together if desired. The extra time it +takes in making the dovetailed joints will greatly +add to the durability of the box. The box can be +made much stronger by nailing the sides and ends +to posts 2 in. square placed on the inside. Cleats +should also be placed on the inside, at the bottom, +as shown. Fasten four blocks, 2 in. square, to the +bottom for the box to rest upon. These can be attached +with long screws run through from the bottom +of the box.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'>[66]</span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Design_of_the_Covering_Strip" id="Design_of_the_Covering_Strip"></a> +<img src="images/i-066.jpg" width="600" height="411" alt="Fig. 2—Design of the Covering Strip Put on Over the +Burlap" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Fig. 2—Design of the Covering Strip Put on Over the +Burlap</span> +</div> + +<p>The green burlap is glued to the outside of the +box. Be careful not to apply too much glue on the +burlap, or it will soak through. This should be tried +out on a scrap piece, and when the proper application +of glue is ascertained, applied to one side of the +burlap and stuck on the box. Place the cloth on so +<span class='pagenum'>[67]. +</span> +the weave will run in the same direction on all sides. +The oak slats are cut and fit over the burlap as +shown in Fig. 2. Care should be taken to make the +mitered joints a tight fit. After the miters are all +cut and the location of the squares, found, they are +marked so that pieces of red burlap may be placed +over the green before the slats are fastened permanently. +The slats are put in place over the burlap +and fastened with small brass screws.</p> + +<p>Cover the top or lid with green burlap, allowing +the edges to lap over the ends and sides and fasten +under the side strips. This top can be stuffed with +excelsior, if desired, and tacks with large heads +driven in to hold it in place. The slats can be stained +any color to suit the maker. They should be removed +from the box when being stained so as not +to spot or stain the burlap.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="QUARTER-SAWED_OAK_SETTEE" id="QUARTER-SAWED_OAK_SETTEE"></a>QUARTER-SAWED OAK SETTEE</h2> + + +<p>The mission settee shown in the accompanying +picture should be made of quarter-sawed white oak. +The material needed will be as follows:</p> + +<ul><li>4 posts, 3-1/4 by 3-1/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>4 end rails, 1-1/2 by 5 by 32 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>12 end slats, 5/8 by 3-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 front rail, 1-1/2 by 7 by 87 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 lower back rail, 1-1/2 by 9 by 87 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 upper back rail, 1-1/2 by 12 by 87 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 cleats for seat frame, 1-1/2 by 2 by 82 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 cleats for seat frame, 1-1/2 by 2 by 32 in., S-4-S.</li></ul> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'>[68]</span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Mission_Settee_Made_of_Quarter-Sawed_Oak" id="Mission_Settee_Made_of_Quarter-Sawed_Oak"></a> +<img src="images/i-068.jpg" width="600" height="383" alt="Mission Settee Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Mission Settee Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak</span> +</div> + +<p>On account of the unusual width of the pieces that +go into the makeup of this settee, it will be necessary +to have the wood thoroughly seasoned before +putting them together, otherwise shrinkage will cause +them to crack open. +<span class='pagenum'>[69]</span></p> + +<p>Begin work by making the ends of the settee +first. Cut the posts to length, chamfering both top +and bottoms somewhat so that they shall not splinter +or cause injury to the hands. Next lay out and +cut the mortises as shown on the drawing. With +the posts finished, lay out the end rails, cutting the +tenons and the mortises into which the ends of the +slats are to be fitted.</p> + +<p>It should be noted that the drawing calls for the +"setting in" of the whole of the ends of the slats, +there being no shoulders. This is much easier and +gives just as satisfactory a result, provided the sides +of the mortises are carefully cut.</p> + +<p>Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all these parts +and then put the ends together. In addition to the +glue it will be well to through pin each of the tenons +and mortises. These pins may be put in flush +and permanent on the ends of the settee. On the +side rails, however, the pins are to be allowed to +project so that they can be removed, and no glue is +used in the joint.</p> + +<p>While the glue of the ends is hardening, prepare +the rails of front and back. Scrape and sandpaper +these and when the clamps can be removed from +the ends put the whole frame together. The ends +of all projecting tenons are chamfered.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'>[70]</span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_the_Oak_Settee" id="Detail_of_the_Oak_Settee"></a> +<img src="images/i-070.jpg" width="600" height="281" alt="Detail of the Oak Settee" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Oak Settee</span> +</div> + +<p>The illustration shows a loose leather cushion. +There is quite a variety of materials out of which +such a cushion can be made. The best, of course, +is leather. In the highest class of furniture where +loose cushions are used, the seat base is formed by +solidly mortising a frame together on which is +woven a heavy cane seating. This in turn is fastened +to the inside of the piece of furniture, and the +<span class='pagenum'>[71]</span> +cushions when placed upon it make a very comfortable +seat. The stock bill for this settee calls for +such a frame. Wood slats may be substituted if +desired.</p> + + + +<p>This piece of furniture will look well if finished +in weathered oak. See that all glue is removed from +the surface, and that the wood is clean and smooth, +and apply a coat of weathered oak oil stain. Sandpaper +this lightly with No. 00 paper when the stain +has thoroughly dried, and put on a coat of lackluster +or an equivalent.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_SCREEN" id="A_SCREEN"></a>A SCREEN</h2> + + +<p>In selecting or making up mission furniture for +the home, a screen is necessary sometimes to add +to the appearance of a room. The screen shown +in the accompanying illustration consists of a few +parts which are easily put together. The stock +can be bought of any planing mill planed, sanded +and cut to the proper lengths. The cloth, which +should be of dark color, can be purchased at a +dry goods store. The following list of material +will be needed.</p> + + +<ul><li>6 posts, 1 in. square by 65 in.</li> +<li>6 rails, 3/4 in. square by 18 in.</li> +<li>6 rails, 1/2 in. square by 18 in.</li> +<li>3 panels, 1/4 by 3 by 18 in.</li> +<li>6 yd. of cloth.</li> +<li>4 double-acting hinges.</li> +<li>2 doz. 2-1/2-in. slender screws.</li> +</ul> + + +<p>Cut or plow a groove 1/4 in. wide and 1/4 in. deep +in the center of one surface on each of the 3/4-in. +rails. Cut out the ends with a compass saw. The +five holes are bored with a 1-in. bit. The edges +<span class='pagenum'>[72]</span> +of these panels are inserted in the grooves of the +3/4-in. rails, using plenty of good glue.</p> + +<p>When the glue has dried for at least 24 hours +the screen frame +can be put together. +Holes for +the screws +should be bored +through the posts +where the 3/4-in. +rails are joined +and a screw +turned into the +end grain of each +rail.</p> + +<p>Scrape off all +the surplus glue +and sandpaper all +the parts well. +When this is done +the finish can be +applied. Any one +of the mission +stains can be used +and finished with wax and polished.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 443px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_One_Section" id="Detail_of_One_Section"></a> +<img src="images/i-072.jpg" width="443" height="600" alt="Detail of One Section" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of One Section</span> +</div> + +<p>The cloth is cut to length, a hem sewed on each +end and one 1/2-in. rail put through each hem. +Place the top rail in position and screw it fast. +Stretch the cloth tight and fasten the lower 1/2-in. +rail with screws at the bottom. Each section of +the screen is finished in the same way.</p> + +<p>The hinges are attached about 4 in. from each end +of the posts in the same manner as hanging a door. +<span class='pagenum'>[73]</span></p> + +<p>The sections can be made up in various ways to +suit the builder. Instead of using cloth, heavy paste-board, +or board made up to take the place of plaster +on walls of dwellings, may be substituted, thus forming +a ground that will take paint and bronze decorations. +A piece of this material can be easily cut to +fit the opening in each section.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 441px;"> +<a name="Screen_of_Three_Sections" id="Screen_of_Three_Sections"></a> +<img src="images/i-073.jpg" width="441" height="600" alt="Screen of Three Sections +" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Screen of Three Sections +</span> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'>[74]</span></p> +<h2><a name="A_MISSION_BOOKRACK" id="A_MISSION_BOOKRACK"></a>A MISSION BOOKRACK</h2> + + +<p>The accompanying sketch shows a bookrack designed +strictly along mission lines. Enough stock +may be found among the scrap, as no piece is over +1 in, in width or thickness. If stock is not on hand, +secure the following, cut to exact lengths:</p> + + +<ul><li>2 stretchers, 1 by 1 by 20 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>4 posts, 1 by 1 by 7-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>4 rails, 1 by 1 by 7 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>8 slats, 1/2 by 1/2 by 3-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +</ul> + + +<p>Arrange the pieces as they are to be in the finished +rack and number both parts of each joint. +There will be twelve lap joints, and great care must +be taken to mark them accurately and to cut to exactly +half the depth of each piece.</p> + +<p>First fit the posts and rails of the ends. To mark +the width of each notch, lay the piece which is to +fit into the notch upon it and thus get the exact size. +Knife lines must be used for the width and light +gauge lines for the depth of each notch.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_the_Bookrack" id="Detail_of_the_Bookrack"></a> +<img src="images/i-074.jpg" width="500" height="187" alt="Detail of the Bookrack" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Bookrack</span> +</div> + +<p>Next lay out and cut joints between the stretchers +and ends.</p> + +<p>In each end there are four slats which should be +<span class='pagenum'>[75]</span> +mortised into the rails 1/4 in. Glue the pieces in +place and clamp them with handscrews.</p> + +<p>A rubber-headed tack in the bottom of each post +will prevent the marring of the surface upon which +the rack is to rest.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="The_Complete_Bookrack" id="The_Complete_Bookrack"></a> +<img src="images/i-075.jpg" width="500" height="231" alt="The Complete Bookrack" title="" /> +<span class="caption">The Complete Bookrack</span> +</div> + +<p>Mission, weathered or fumed-oak stain will look +well. A waxed finish should be used. Before applying +the wax, it is well to use a very thin coat of +shellac as a foundation. Let this coat stand for a +few hours and allow an interval of at least an hour +between applying the coats of wax.</p> + +<p>Should the rack wind a little, it may be remedied +by cutting off part of two diagonally opposite racks.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_ROUND_EXTENSION_DINING_TABLE" id="A_ROUND_EXTENSION_DINING_TABLE"></a>A ROUND EXTENSION DINING TABLE</h2> + +<p><span class='pagenum'>[76]</span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 377px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_the_Table" id="Detail_of_the_Table"></a> +<img src="images/i-076.jpg" width="377" height="600" alt="Detail of the Table" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Table</span> +</div> + +<p>This extension table should be made of some hard +wood, preferably white oak. It will be a difficult +matter to secure legs of the sizes indicated in solid +pieces of clear stock. It will be possible, however, +<span class='pagenum'>[77]</span> +to secure them veneered upon white-pine cores. If +the veneering is properly done these will serve the +purpose very well, the lighter weight, due to the +white-pine core, being an advantage. The circular +facing is best made by first sawing a segment of the +circle of the size wanted and then veneering the +outer surface of this. Order the following stock:</p> + + +<ul><li>4 legs, 3 by 3 by 30-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 leg, 5 by 5 by 30-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>4 rails, 1-1/8 by 5 by 23 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>4 facing segments, 1-1/8 by 3-1/4 in. on a 24-in. radius.</li> +<li>1 top, 1-1/8 in. thick on a 27-in. radius, S-2-S;</li> +<li>3 extra boards, 1-1/8 by 12 by 55 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>4 slides, 1-1/8 by 2-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple.</li> +<li>2 slides, 1-1/4 by 2-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple.</li> +<li>4 frame pieces, 7/8 by 3 by 9 in., S-4-S, maple.</li> +<li>2 frame pieces, 7/8 by 6 by 28 in., S-4-S, maple.</li> +<li>2 frame pieces, 7/8 by 4 by 23-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple.</li></ul> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Table_for_the_Dining-Room_Set" id="Table_for_the_Dining-Room_Set"></a> +<img src="images/i-077.jpg" width="600" height="455" alt="Table for the Dining-Room Set" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Table for the Dining-Room Set</span> +</div><p> +<span class='pagenum'>[78]</span></p> + +<p>There are various ways of arranging the slides +to work one with the other. Several patented devices +are on the market that permit a ready adjustment +with but little effort and are used extensively +by commercial manufacturers. The amateur will do +well to secure a set before he undertakes to work +these slides to shape.</p> + +<p>Prepare the legs by cutting them to length. Lay +out and work the mortises. The ends of the facings +are to be tenoned and housed into the posts. Prepare +the rails by cutting the tenons and shaping +the lower edges as shown in the drawing. Prepare +the top. After this, assemble this much of the +frame, using plenty of clamps and good hot glue.</p> + +<p>Next get the under frame and the slides ready and +attach them as shown. There will be needed plenty +of glue blocks for reinforcing the facing where it +is fastened to the top, etc.</p> + +<p>For a finish, apply a filler colored, as desired. +Upon this, after it has hardened and been sanded +with No. 00 paper, apply a coat of shellac. Upon +the shellac apply successively several coats of some +good rubbing varnish. Rub the first coats with +haircloth and the final coat with pulverized pumice +and crude or linseed oil.</p> + +<p>If an effect is wanted that will contrast, stain the +wood first with a water stain. Sand this lightly +when dry, then apply a second coat of stain diluted +one-half with water. Again sand and then +apply a thin coat of shellac. Sand this lightly, and +apply the filler and the varnish as described above.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'>[79]</span></p> +<h2><a name="AN_ARM_DINING_CHAIR" id="AN_ARM_DINING_CHAIR"></a>AN ARM DINING CHAIR</h2> + + +<div class="figright" style="width: 430px;"> +<a name="Armchair_of_the_Dining-Room_Set" id="Armchair_of_the_Dining-Room_Set"></a> +<img src="images/i-079.jpg" width="430" height="600" alt="Armchair of the Dining-Room Set" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Armchair of the Dining-Room Set</span> +</div> + +<p>This armchair will look well if made of plain-sawed +oak. Quarter-sawed oak might be used, or +black walnut if desired. The stock bill specifies +the various parts mill-planed to size as far as possible. +If some amateur craftsman should prefer to +<span class='pagenum'>[80]</span> +do his own surfacing, thereby saving somewhat on +the expense, he should add 1/4 in. to the width of +each piece, providing the stock is mill-planed to +thickness. It is hardly profitable to get stock entirely +in the rough if the work is to be done by hand. +The following is the stock bill:</p> + + +<ul><li>2 front posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 25 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 piece for back posts, 1-3/4 by 6 by 43 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 arm pieces, 7/8 by 4 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 seat rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 22 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 seat rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>4 lower side rails, 5/8 by 1-1/2 by 22 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 front and back lower rails, 5/8 by 2-3/4 by 24 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/4 by 24 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 slats, 3/8 by 2 by 16-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 slat, 3/8 by 4-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 braces, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 5-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li></ul> + + + +<p>The design shown is for a chair in which the +width of front and back is the same. Also the back +leg parallels the front below the seat. In commercial +practice the backs are usually made somewhat +narrower than the fronts and the back leg is slanted +somewhat below the seat as well as above. As this +construction necessitates sloping shoulders on all +tenons it complicates the problem when the work +is not done by machinery. The ambitious amateur +may readily get the proportion of slant by measuring +common chairs. For mission effects the chair +looks well with front and back the same width.</p> + +<p>Prepare the front posts first and then the rear. +The rear posts are to be cut from the single piece of +stock specified. By proper planning both pieces may +be gotten out without trouble. Lay off and cut the +mortises.</p> + +<p>Saw the rails to length and lay out and cut the +tenons. The back rails are to have mortises in their +edges to receive the ends of the slats. Instead of +<span class='pagenum'>[81]</span> +tenoning these slats make mortises large enough to +receive the whole end—in other words, house the +ends.</p> + +<p>Shape the two arms, then glue up the back and +then the front of the chair. After the glue has set +sufficiently, assemble the remainder of the parts.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_the_Armchair" id="Detail_of_the_Armchair"></a> +<img src="images/i-081.jpg" width="600" height="468" alt="Detail of the Armchair" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Armchair</span> +</div> + +<p>Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper the parts and +then apply the finish.</p> + +<p>For a seat, either a leather cushion may be placed +upon slats or the bottom may be upholstered in the +usual manner, using webbing on heavy canvas, and +then felt or hair with a top of canvas and leather; +the whole being firmly fastened with tacks and the +leather with ornamental nails.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'>[82]</span></p> +<h2><a name="A_HALL_BENCH" id="A_HALL_BENCH"></a>A HALL BENCH</h2> + + +<p>All the stock for this bench should be of 7/8-in. +oak, excepting the slats, which may be of a cheaper +wood. The following list of lumber will be required +to build it:</p> + + +<ul><li>4 slats, 7/8 by 4 by 17 in., cheap wood.</li> +<li>2 cleats, 7/8 by 1 by 26 in., cheap wood.</li> +<li>4 end rails, 7/8 by 2 by 16-1/4 in., oak, S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 ends, 7/8 by 16 by 16-1/4 in., oak, S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 sides, 7/8 by 4 by 25 in., oak, S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 pieces, 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 25 in., oak, S-2-S.</li></ul> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_the_Hall_Bench" id="Detail_of_the_Hall_Bench"></a> +<img src="images/i-082.jpg" width="600" height="385" alt="Detail of the Hall Bench" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Hall Bench</span> +</div> + +<p>Start the work by first cutting the two pieces of +7/8 by 5-1/2 by 25-in. material diagonally 1 in. from +each corner, thus making the legs. The edges are +planed square and the ends should be rounded a +<span class='pagenum'>[83]</span> +little so that there will be no splinters projecting. +The legs are mortised 1 in. deep for the side rails. +The tenon ends are cut on the rails, care being +taken to get the right angle and a good fit. These +can now be fastened together, using hot glue on +the entire surface of the joint.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Bench_Made_of_Plain_Oak" id="Bench_Made_of_Plain_Oak"></a> +<img src="images/i-083.jpg" width="600" height="578" alt="Bench Made of Plain Oak" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Bench Made of Plain Oak</span> +</div> + +<p>While these are drying the ends can be made as +shown in the plan. The 3 by 4-in. holes are cut at +equal distances apart. Be sure that each end is perfectly +square, then glue and dowel the 2-in. strips +at each end. The ends are then glued and nailed +<span class='pagenum'>[84]</span> +to the sides, using finishing nails, which are set and +the holes filled with colored putty.</p> + +<p>The cleats are now fastened, extra care being +taken when fastening them over the joints where +the legs receive the side rails, as this will help to +strengthen the joints. The slats rest on these cleats +and are placed at equal distances apart.</p> + +<p>The bench is now finished, but before applying +the stain, see that all parts are free from glue and +are well sandpapered.</p> + +<p>The leather cushion should be the loose kind and +of a shade to harmonize with the finish.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_SEWING_TABLE" id="A_SEWING_TABLE"></a>A SEWING TABLE</h2> + + +<p>This convenient and useful table will be much +appreciated by any woman. It has two drawers for +sewing material, and two drop leaves to spread the +work upon.</p> + +<p>The following list of material will be needed for +its construction. The sizes given are exact, so if +the stock cannot be bought at a mill ready planed +and squared, a slight allowance must be made for +this.</p> + + +<ul><li>4 posts, 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 by 27 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>9 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 14-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>1 top, 7/8 by 18 by 18 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 leaves, 7/8 by 10 by 18 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 5 by 13-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>4 drawer sides, 3/8 by 5 by 13 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 drawer backs, 3/8 by 4-1/8 by 13 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 12-3/4 by 13 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>4 drawer slides, 7/8 by 2 by 13 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>3 panels, 3/8 by 9-3/8 by 14 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 brackets, 7/8 by 3 by 4 in., S-2-S.</li></ul> + + + +<p>Have the surfaces of the legs exactly square with +<span class='pagenum'>[85]</span> +each other. The ends must be square with all surfaces, +but need not be planed smooth as neither will +be seen in the finished table.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 434px;"> +<a name="Sewing_Table_in_Plain_Oak" id="Sewing_Table_in_Plain_Oak"></a> +<img src="images/i-085.jpg" width="434" height="600" alt="Sewing Table in Plain Oak" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Sewing Table in Plain Oak</span> +</div> + +<p>Arrange the rails in position. The two rails in +each side and back are placed with the 2-in. surface +out, while the three in the front have the 2-in. surface +<span class='pagenum'>[86]</span> +up for the drawers to slide upon. Mark the +tenons, 1 in, by 3/8 in., with a knife and gauge lines +on each end of the rails for the sides and back. +Mark the tenons, 3/4 in. by 7/8 in., as shown in the +sketch, on each end of front rails. Cut all the tenons +with a backsaw and smooth them with a chisel.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_the_Sewing_Table" id="Detail_of_the_Sewing_Table"></a> +<img src="images/i-086.jpg" width="600" height="384" alt="Detail of the Sewing Table" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Sewing Table</span> +</div> + +<p>Carefully mark the mortises in the legs, taking +measurements for each mortise from the tenon +which is to go into it. Fit together all rails and legs +without glue to detect any errors.</p> + +<p>See that the panels for sides and back are squared +up true and the surfaces smooth. Mark the grooves +for the panels in the side and back rails and legs. +Cut the grooves with a chisel or plow plane to a +depth of 1/4 in.</p> + +<p>Glue up the joints and clamp the two table sides +<span class='pagenum'>[87]</span> +first. While the glue is setting, square up and +smooth the top and two leaves perfectly.</p> + +<p>Now glue up the whole table, having set in the +front and back rails and panel. The drawer slides, +two on each side, should next be put in. A nail +through them and into each leg will hold them, as +there is only the weight of the drawers resting on +them. Fasten the top with screws through the rails +from the under side. The leaves are attached with +two 2-in. butt hinges which must be set in flush +with the under surface to prevent a crack showing +between the table top and leaf when the latter is +raised. The small bracket hinged to the panel supports +the open leaf.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="Construction_of_the_Drawer" id="Construction_of_the_Drawer"></a> +<img src="images/i-087.jpg" width="500" height="348" alt="Construction of the Drawer" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Construction of the Drawer</span> +</div> + +<p>The drawers are now made. Allow the side to +lap over the front 1/2 in. as shown in sketch and +fasten it with nails. The bottom should be let into +the sides and front 1/4 in., but must not be nailed +to them, because this would cause the drawer to +stick, when the bottom expands. +<span class='pagenum'>[88]</span></p> + +<p>Metal rings or wooden knobs will do well for the +drawer pulls.</p> + +<p>Stain to any desired shade and finish with a wax +if a dull gloss is wanted, or with one coat of shellac +and two coats of varnish for a highly polished surface.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_SIDE_CHAIR" id="A_SIDE_CHAIR"></a>A SIDE CHAIR</h2> + + +<div class="figright" style="width: 361px;"> +<a name="Side_Chair_of_Dining-Room_Set" id="Side_Chair_of_Dining-Room_Set"></a> +<img src="images/i-089.jpg" width="361" height="600" alt="Side Chair of Dining-Room Set" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Side Chair of Dining-Room Set</span> +</div> + +<p>A companion piece to the chair with arms and the +sideboard is the side chair illustrated herewith. It +should be made of the same kind of wood and finished +to correspond with the armchair. Order the +following stock list:</p> + + +<ul><li>2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 piece for back posts, 1-1/2 by 5-1/2 by 38-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>4 seat rails, 1 by 2 by 17 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>4 lower side rails, 5/8 by 1-1/4 by 17 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 lower front and back rails, 5/8 by 2-1/2 by 17 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/4 by 17 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 back rail, 3/4 by 2 by 17 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 slat, 3/8 by 3 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li></ul> + + + + +<p>Square up the front posts to length. From the +single piece specified cut out the back posts, giving +them the amount of slant indicated in the drawing. +Set these four posts upright in the positions they +are to occupy relative to one another in the finished +piece, and mark off, as with penciled circles, the +approximate locations of mortises. After this, lay +them on the bench side by side, even the lower ends +and locate accurately the ends of the mortises. +Gauge their sides.</p> + +<p>Saw the rails to length and lay out the shoulder +lines and the cheeks of the tenons and cut them. +Plan to house the ends of the slats in the back rails. +<span class='pagenum'>[89]</span></p> + +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>[90]</span></p> + +<p>While the drawing shows a chair in which the +front and back are of equal width, the amateur may +make the back narrower if he so desires. A +measurement of a common chair will give the proportions.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_the_Side_Chair" id="Detail_of_the_Side_Chair"></a> +<img src="images/i-090.jpg" width="600" height="594" alt="Detail of the Side Chair" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Side Chair</span> +</div> + +<p>Place the front and the back in the clamps and +after the glue has had time to harden, assemble the +remaining parts. Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper +<span class='pagenum'>[91]</span> +all the parts, carefully removing any surplus glue. +Wood finish will not "take hold" where any glue +has been allowed to remain.</p> + +<p>The seat may be given the same treatment as suggested +for the armchair. This should not be done, +however, until the finish has been applied.</p> + +<p>A simple finish is obtained by the application of +a coat of paste filler of a soft brown color, if oak has +been used. Apply and clean this off in the manner +directed by the manufacturers and after it has had +24 hours in which to harden, sand it lightly with +No. 00 paper. Over this apply a thin coat of +shellac. Allow this to harden, then sandpaper +lightly with fine paper. Upon the shellac apply several +coats of some good rubbing wax. Follow the +directions that are to be found upon the cans, being +careful not to apply too much at a time. If too +much wax is applied, it stays in the small pores +of the wood and produces an ugly chalk-like +appearance.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="ANOTHER_PIANO_BENCH" id="ANOTHER_PIANO_BENCH"></a>ANOTHER PIANO BENCH</h2> + + +<p>The piano bench shown is best made of black walnut +or oak and should be finished in the natural +color for walnut, but stained some rich brown for +oak.</p> + +<p>The following pieces will be needed:</p> + + +<ul><li>1 top, 1 by 15-1/2 by 38-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 legs, 1 by 14-1/2 by 20-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 rails, 7/8 by 3-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>1 stretcher, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 37 in., S-2-S.</li></ul> + + + +<p>The keys can be secured from the waste that will +be cut off from the other parts. +<span class='pagenum'>[92]</span></p> + +<p>Square up the top in the usual manner to the size +indicated in the working drawing. In a similar +manner square up the stretcher to width and length.</p> + +<p>There will be no need to square the ends of the +rails as they are to be cut off on a slant. Square up +the sides or edges and then lay off and cut the slanting +ends, smoothing them with the plane. Lay off +and work the shape on their under edges.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_the_Piano_Bench2" id="Detail_of_the_Piano_Bench2"></a> +<img src="images/i-092.jpg" width="600" height="319" alt=""/> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Piano Bench</span> +</div> + +<p>The ends are best laid off by means of a template +or pattern for which a piece of rather heavy paper +will do. Lay off the main dimensions on a center +line. Sketch in the curve of the edge after the slant +has been laid out. Lay out the form at the bottom, +then fold the paper along the center line and trace +the other half. With this pattern lay off the outline +upon the wood. For convenience in laying out +the grooves for the rails and the mortise for the +tenon on the stretcher, it is well to work a face edge +upon each leg and allow this to remain until these +joints have been made and the parts fitted. The +<span class='pagenum'>[93]</span> +shape at the bottom of the leg is merely suggestive +and may be modified as desired.</p> + +<p>Lay out and work the tenons on the stretcher. +Then lay out and work the grooves upon the rails. +Each side of each rail is grooved 1/8 in, to allow the +leg to be recessed. This is done to give the bench +the bracing that is needed to make it stand firmly. +Work the grooves in the legs and the mortises for +the rails.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Piano_Bench_in_Quarter-Sawed_Oak" id="Piano_Bench_in_Quarter-Sawed_Oak"></a> +<img src="images/i-093.jpg" width="600" height="391" alt="Piano Bench in Quarter-Sawed Oak" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Piano Bench in Quarter-Sawed Oak</span> +</div> + +<p>It should be noted that the mortise for the key in +the stretcher must be laid out before the shoulders +and cheeks of the tenon on which the mortise is +made are cut off. Otherwise there would be no place +to put the gauge in marking the sides of the mortise +for the key.</p> + +<p>Thoroughly scrape all the parts and then assemble +them. No glue is needed. The rails are held in +place by dowel pins, the heads of which are allowed +<span class='pagenum'>[94]</span> +to project slightly and rounded so as to give an ornamental +effect. The top is attached by means of +small angle irons or by means of blocks and screws +fastened to the corners made by top and rails.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="ANOTHER_SCREEN" id="ANOTHER_SCREEN"></a>ANOTHER SCREEN</h2> + + +<p>The screen shown in the accompanying illustration +is made of burlap and plain-sawed oak. The +stock list follows:</p> + + +<ul><li>2 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 40 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 base pieces, 3 by 3 by 12-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 horizontals, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 38 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>1 horizontal, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 38 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>1 vertical, 3/4 by 1-3/4 by 20 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>4 braces, 1-1/8 by 4-1/4 by 6-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li></ul> + + + +<p>The two base pieces may be shaped first. The +drawing shows the form and the dimensions. Make +use of a face edge in laying out the mortises in the +base pieces for the uprights, before these face edges +are removed to make the slanting sides.</p> + +<p>Work the verticals to length, laying out and cutting +the tenons at the bottoms, and shaping the tops +as shown.</p> + +<p>Lay out and shape the three horizontals as shown, +working the tenons upon the ends of each and the +mortises in the lower two for the tenons of the middle +vertical.</p> + +<p>For the braces, secure a face edge on each piece +and square one end of each to that. Lay off the +curve free-hand upon one block and cut it out. Use +this block as a pattern or template to lay off the +others.</p> + +<p>Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all the parts, +<span class='pagenum'>[95]</span> +then assemble them, using clamps and good hot +glue. Take care to see that there is no warp in the +frame as it lies in the clamps. After the glue on the +frame has hardened, remove the clamps and attach +the base blocks and the braces. The braces are secured +by means of round-head screws.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 593px;"> +<a name="Plain-Oak_Frame" id="Plain-Oak_Frame"></a> +<img src="images/i-095.jpg" width="593" height="600" alt="Plain-Oak Frame with +Burlap Panels" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Plain-Oak Frame with +Burlap Panels</span> +</div> + +<p>Remove the surplus glue and then apply a finish +as desired.</p> + +<p>For the paneling, frames will be needed about +which to fasten the burlap. These may be made of +<span class='pagenum'>[96]</span> +1/2-in, soft wood and the following pieces will be +necessary:</p> + + +<ul><li>2 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 36 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 8 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>4 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 18 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>4 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 19 in., S-2-S.</li></ul> + + + +<p>Make these frames enough smaller than the openings +they are to occupy to allow for burlap and +tacks. These frames are held in place by putting +fixed nails in the top of each frame before the burlap +is attached. Holes are bored in the rails to correspond +to them. The lower edges of the frames +are held in place by nails inserted up through the +rails upon which the frames rest.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_the_Frame" id="Detail_of_the_Frame"></a> +<img src="images/i-096.jpg" width="600" height="490" alt="Detail of the Frame" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Frame</span> +</div><p> +<span class='pagenum'>[97]</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_FOLDING_CARD_TABLE" id="A_FOLDING_CARD_TABLE"></a>A FOLDING CARD TABLE</h2> + + +<p>The accompanying sketch shows the details of a +card table that can be folded up and carried about +or stored away when not in use. We would advise +making two tables at the same time, as the material +for both can be purchased nearly as cheaply as for +one. The material necessary for making one table +is given in the following list:</p> + + +<ul><li>1 piece, 7/8 by 1-3/16 by 27-1/2 in., basswood or poplar.</li> +<li>2 pieces, 7/8 by 1-3/16 by 29-1/4 in., basswood or poplar.</li> +<li>4 legs, 1 in. square, 24-3/4 in. long; oak.</li> +<li>4 pieces, 1 in. square, 5 in. long; oak.</li> +<li>4 side pieces, 3/8 by 1-3/8 by 29-5/8 in.; oak.</li> +<li>4 pieces, 27-1/2 in. long, single groove electric wire moulding with</li> +<li>batten.</li> +<li>1 piece cardboard, 1/8 in. thick, 29-1/4 in. square.</li> +<li>4 pieces brass rod, 3-16 in. diameter, 15 in. long.</li> +<li>30 small copper washers, 3/8 or 7/16 in. outside diameter and drilled</li> +<li>3/16 in.</li> +<li>4 brass corners, 1-3/8 in, deep.</li> +<li>2-1/2 doz. No. 5 oval head brass screws, 3/4 in. long.</li> +<li>4 No. 2, 7/8-in. rubber screw tips.</li> +<li>1 piece felt, 1 yd. square.</li> +<li>1 sheet wadding, 1 yd. square (if pad is wanted under felt).</li> +<li>1 pt. wood stain.</li> +<li>3 doz. No. 14 wire beads, 2 in. long.</li> +<li>Some 2-oz., 4-oz., and 6-oz. flat-head tacks.</li></ul> + +<p><span class='pagenum'>[98]</span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 419px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_the_Card_Table" id="Detail_of_the_Card_Table"></a> +<img src="images/i-098.jpg" width="419" height="600" alt="Detail of the Card Table" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Card Table</span> +</div> + +<p>Begin by squaring up the four legs making them +all 24-3/4 in. long and 1 in. square. Also square up +the crosspieces marked B in the detail drawing. +These should be 5 in. long and should have 1/4-in. +holes about 1 in. deep drilled in both ends of each +for the 1/4-in. oak swivel pins. Measure back 1-1/2 in. +from one end of each and bore a 9/16-in. hole, 7/8 in. +deep as shown. Now cut a tenon on one end of each +leg, 3/4 in. long, that will fit tightly in this 9/16-in. +hole. Round the corners of the piece B at the top +as shown at C. Fasten the two pieces together +with glue and brads, being careful to get them +<span class='pagenum'>[99]</span> +square with each other. After the glue is set bore +a 3/16-in. hole in the center of the leg, 7 in. from the +edge of the crosspiece, for the brace rod. Bevel the +corners as shown. Sandpaper them smooth, then +stain and polish.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Card_Table_Ready_for_Use" id="Card_Table_Ready_for_Use"></a> +<img src="images/i-099.jpg" width="600" height="501" alt="Card Table Ready for Use" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Card Table Ready for Use</span> +</div> + +<p>Lay the two pieces marked D and E in the sketch +on a level surface with the 7/8-in. edge up, place the +cardboard on top and tack it fast to the pieces, using +6-oz. tacks. Place the center piece in and tack it +fast also. Fasten the ends to the other pieces with +brads. The four pieces of electric wire moulding +should each measure exactly 27-1/2 in. long, or the +same length as the center piece. Fit a piece of wood +about 4 in. long in the groove at each end of the +moulding, plane down and fasten with brads. Next +take the thin batten or covering strip that comes +<span class='pagenum'>[100]</span> +with the moulding and bore a 1/2-in. hole in the center, +6 in, from one end, and a 1/4-in. hole, 8-3/16 in. +from the other end. With a gouge cut a slot 1/4 in. +wide from one hole to the other in the center as +shown in the section A-A. Sandpaper this slot +smooth and then fasten the batten to the moulding +with small brads driven in about 2 in. apart. At a +point 3/4 in. from each end and in the center drill +1/4-in. holes through the moulding at the small ends +of the slots. These are for the ends of the brace +rods to spring into, to lock the legs when they +are open. Tack the two pieces of moulding marked +F and J on the remaining edges of the cardboard +with the slots facing in and the large holes of the +slots at opposite sides, then place the other two +pieces (G and H) 5 in. inside of these, or just the +length of the cross ends of the legs, with the slots +facing the first two placed (F and J) and tack fast +with 4-oz. tacks. Use brads at the ends and be +careful that they do not enter the 1/4-in. holes. This +part of the table can now be stained or painted the +same as the legs. The 3/8-in. side pieces can also +be stained at this time.</p> + +<p>The ends of the brass rods can be bent in a vise. +One end should be 1 in. long and should be square +with the stock. Measure 11-1/4 in. center to center +and bend in opposite direction, leaving this end at +a slight angle out from square. Just at this bend +raise a burr with a sharp chisel to keep the washer +on. Now place five of the copper washers on the +1-in. end and batter the end of the rod so they will +not slip off. They should be loose so that they +will roll and slip on the brace. Slip a washer on +the other end and put the end of the rod through +<span class='pagenum'>[101]</span> +the 3/16-in. hole in the leg from the short end side, +place another washer on the rod, saw off and rivet +down the end.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="The_Legs_Fold_on_the_Under" id="The_Legs_Fold_on_the_Under"></a> +<img src="images/i-101.jpg" width="600" height="623" alt="The Legs Fold on the Under Side of Top" title="" /> +<span class="caption">The Legs Fold on the Under Side of Top</span> +</div> + +<p>To put the legs in the table, slip the end of one +of the braces and the washers in the large hole in +the slot, shove it up until the 1/4-in. hole in the +crosspiece and the one in the moulding meet, then +drive an oak dowel or rod into each end. This is +the hinge or pivot that the legs swing on. When +the leg is extended the end of the brace rod should +spring into the 1/4-in. hole in the moulding and lock +the leg in place. Rubber tips should be put on the +bottom ends of the legs. Two wooden buttons +should be made and fastened to the cardboard as +<span class='pagenum'>[102]</span> +shown at K for locking the legs when they are +closed.</p> + +<p>The felt can now be put on the top of the table. +Stretch it tightly and then tack the edges securely +to the sides of the table. Now fasten on the 3/8-in. +side pieces and the brass corners with the small +brass screws as shown on the drawing, and the table +is complete.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="MAGAZINE_STAND" id="MAGAZINE_STAND"></a>MAGAZINE STAND</h2> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 298px;"> +<a name="Stand_Complete" id="Stand_Complete"></a> +<img src="images/i-103.jpg" width="298" height="600" alt="Stand Complete" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Stand Complete</span> +</div> + +<p>If you do not possess the necessary tools for getting +out the material used in this piece of furniture, +it can be purchased from a mill already planed, +sanded and cut to lengths given in the list. Any +kind of wood can be used, but quarter-sawed red oak +with a mission stain and waxed, gives the best appearance. +The following pieces will be needed:</p> + + +<ul><li>2 shelves, 3/8 by 8 by 15 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>1 shelf, 3/8 by 10 by 15 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>1 shelf, 3/8 by 12 by 15 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>8 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/8 by 38 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 slats, 1/4 by 1-1/8 by 38 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>4 doz. 1 in. No. 9 round-head screws.</li></ul> + +<p><span class='pagenum'>[103]</span></p> + + +<p>Take the four shelves and line them up with their +backs and ends even and clamp them together firmly. +Mark the places for the slats across the edges of the +shelves, making the first line 1/2 in. from their ends. +Use a square to get the lines at right angles to the +surface. Another line is drawn 1-1/8 in. from the first, +or the width of the slat. The ends of the shelves +are marked in the same manner, beginning from the +back edges and making the first line 1/2 in. from +them, and then another line 1-1/8 in. from the first, or +the width of the slat. Make a line across the ends, +<span class='pagenum'>[104]</span> +1/2 in. from the front edge of the 8-in, shelves, and +another line 1-1/8 in. back from the first one. This +will leave 2-1/2 in. and 4-1/2 in. of space respectively +from the front edges of the 10-in. and 12-in. shelves. +Shift the shelves so they will be even on the front +edges and mark them the same as the back. Make +a 1/4-in. depth mark on all edges between the lines +and cut this material out. This can be done while +the shelves are clamped together.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 571px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_Stand" id="Detail_of_Stand"></a> +<img src="images/i-104.jpg" width="571" height="600" alt="Detail of Stand" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of Stand</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'>[105]</span></p> + +<p>Place the shelves on end in their order and start +by screwing on the back slats on both ends first, +then screw on the two front slats. Turn the stand +down and put on the two back slats. Attach the +two front slats on the top shelf first. Then bore the +places for the remaining holes and turn in the +screws. This will bend the slats into place. The +two remaining slats are screwed on the ends of the +shelves without letting them in, making the spaces +equal. Mark each slat 1/2 in. below the bottom shelf +and saw them off. The stand can be taken apart, +sandpapered and stained.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_TABOURET" id="A_TABOURET"></a>A TABOURET</h2> + + +<p>The stock necessary to make a tabouret of craftsman +design as shown in the accompanying illustration +can be purchased from the mill ready cut to +length, squared and sanded. Quarter-sawed oak is +the best wood to use and it is also the easiest to +secure. Order the following pieces:</p> + + +<ul><li>4 legs, 1-1/2 in. square by 22 in. long.</li> +<li>1 top, 3/4 in. thick by 14 in. square.</li> +<li>4 top rails, 3/4 by 4 by 12 in.</li> +<li>4 lower rails, 3/4 by 3 by 12 in.</li></ul> + + + +<p>First square up the four legs. Bevel the tops at +an angle of 30 deg. and hollow out the lower part +of the legs as shown in the detail sketch. Clamp +them together with the ends square and lay out the +mortises all at once. Cut the tenons on the rails to +fit these mortises. Lay them out in the same manner +as the posts so as to get them all the same distance +between shoulders. The upper rails should be +cut out underneath as shown. +<span class='pagenum'>[106]</span></p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 315px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_Tabouret" id="Detail_of_Tabouret"></a> +<img src="images/i-106.jpg" width="315" height="600" alt="Detail of Tabouret" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of Tabouret</span> +</div><p> +<span class='pagenum'>[107]</span></p> + +<p>The rails and posts can now be glued together. +Be careful to get them joined perfectly square. +When they are dry cut and fit the top as shown. +This is fastened to the top rails by means of screws +from the inside. Remove all surplus glue from +about the joints, as the finish will not take where +there is any glue. Go over the whole with fine sandpaper +and remove all rough spots, then apply the +finish you like best.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 468px;"> +<a name="Finished_Tabouret" id="Finished_Tabouret"></a> +<img src="images/i-107.jpg" width="468" height="600" alt="Finished Tabouret" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Finished Tabouret</span> +</div><p> +<span class='pagenum'>[108]</span></p> + +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>[109]</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_PORCH_SWING" id="A_PORCH_SWING"></a>A PORCH SWING</h2> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Complete_Porch_Swing" id="Complete_Porch_Swing"></a> +<img src="images/i-108.jpg" width="600" height="327" alt="Complete Porch Swing" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Complete Porch Swing</span> +</div> + +<p>The porch swing shown in the illustration can be +made of southern pine at a very moderate cost. It +should be suspended by rustless black chains and +eyebolts passing through the lower rails. If cushions +are desired they can be made up quite cheaply +of elastic felt covered with denim cloth.</p> + +<p>These pieces, dressed and sanded, may be bought +at the mill:</p> + + +<ul><li>2 rails, 1-3/4 by 3 by 71 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 rail, 1-3/4 by 3 by 65 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 posts, 1-3/4 by 3 by 25 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 posts, 1-3/4 by 3 by 17 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 rails, 1-3/4 by 3 by 22-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 arm rests, 7/8 by 4 by 28 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>5 slats, 3/8 by 5 by 16 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>8 ft. flooring for bottom.</li> +<li>2 cleats, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 57 in., S-4-S.</li></ul> + + + +<p>Plane and square the ends of all the rails and +posts. Lay out the lap joints for the back rails and +posts. Use a knife line for this and saw exactly to +the line to avoid trimming with the chisel. When +sawing be careful to cut exactly halfway through +the thickness of each piece. In the same way make +the lap joints between the front rail and posts. +Have the two end rails exactly the same length and +proceed to fasten the front and back posts to them, +using 4-in. lag screws and washers. Bore through +the posts and part way into the ends of the end rails +for the lag screws.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'>[110]</span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_the_Porch_Swing" id="Detail_of_the_Porch_Swing"></a> +<img src="images/i-110.jpg" width="600" height="235" alt="Detail of the Porch Swing" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Porch Swing</span> +</div> + +<p>The slats are mortised 1/2 in. into the back rails, +or a 3/8-in. groove may be planed in these rails, the +entire distance between joints, to receive the slats. +A rabbeting plane will be needed for this. The arm +rests lap over the back posts and are held to them +<span class='pagenum'>[111]</span> +with 2-in. round-head screws. They may be fastened +to the top of the front posts with round-head +screws or dowel pins.</p> + +<p>Ordinary pine flooring makes a good, tight seat, +or 7/8-in. board may be used if desired. Fasten the +cleats, which support the seat, to the front and back +lower rails with 1-1/2-in. screws.</p> + +<p>To bring out the beautiful grain of southern pine, +stain it brown or black and finish with two coats of +waterproof varnish.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_FOOT_WARMER" id="A_FOOT_WARMER"></a>A FOOT WARMER</h2> + + +<p>This foot warmer is so constructed that two +bricks may be heated and placed inside of the stool.</p> + +<p>Oak is the most suitable wood to use, and the following +pieces will be needed:</p> + + +<ul><li>4 legs, 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 by 8 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>4 side rails, 7/8 by 3 by 8-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>4 top pieces, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 12 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>1 bottom piece, 7/8 by 8-1/2 by 8-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>1 piece asbestos, 8-1/2 by 8-1/2 in.</li> +<li>4 pieces asbestos, 2 by 8-1/2 in.</li> +<li>1 sheet of brass, 13 by 13 in., 17 gauge.</li> +<li>2 hinges, 1 elbow catch, 3 doz. ornamental tacks.</li></ul> + + + +<p>The work may be started by shaping the four +legs and cutting the mortises for the rails. Tenons +are cut on the ends of the rails to fit in the mortises +made in the posts. They are then glued together, +care being taken to get the stool perfectly +square.</p> + +<p>The top frame can now be made and covered with +the sheet of brass. The frame has mitered corners +and the inside of the frame must be even with +the inside of the rails. This in turn is fastened to +<span class='pagenum'>[112]</span> +the stool with the two hinges on the back and the +elbow catch on the front side to keep it closed.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 376px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_the_Foot_Warmer" id="Detail_of_the_Foot_Warmer"></a> +<img src="images/i-112.jpg" width="376" height="600" alt="Detail of the Foot Warmer" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Foot Warmer</span> +</div> + +<p>The design on the brass can be made by tacking +it on a board, laying out the design and piercing +the background with some sharp-pointed tool. +This leaves the design raised with a smooth +surface.</p> + +<p>The brass can now be removed from the board, +<span class='pagenum'>[113]</span> +placed on the frame and fastened with the ornamental +tacks.</p> + +<p>Turn the stool bottom side up and line the inside +of the rails with asbestos; then place the bricks +on the inside of the stool. Both should fit up tight +to the brass when the bottom is in place.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Oak_Stool" id="Oak_Stool"></a> +<img src="images/i-113.jpg" width="600" height="479" alt="Oak Stool with Brass Cover" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Oak Stool with Brass Cover</span> +</div> + +<p>The stool is now ready for the finish, which can +be of some stain to match the other furniture in +the room where it is to be used.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_PLATE_RACK_FOR_THE_DINING_ROOM" id="A_PLATE_RACK_FOR_THE_DINING_ROOM"></a>A PLATE RACK FOR THE DINING ROOM</h2> + + +<p>This plate rack can be made of any kind of wood +and finished to match other pieces of furniture in +the room, but as it is of mission design, oak is the +most suitable lumber, as it takes the mission stain +so nicely. +<span class='pagenum'>[114]</span></p> + +<p>The material required is as follows:</p> + + +<ul><li>4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 28 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 top, 7/8 by 7-1/4 by 48 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 plate rails, 7/8 by 6-1/4 by 32 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 back boards, 7/8 by 7-1/4 by 25 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 side boards, 7/8 by 5-1/4 by 25 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>4 shelves, 7/8 by 6-1/2 by 8-1/4 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 plate rests, 7/8 by 7/8 by 32 in., S-4-S.</li></ul> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 514px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_Plate_Rack" id="Detail_of_Plate_Rack"></a> +<img src="images/i-114.jpg" width="514" height="600" alt="Detail of Plate Rack" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of Plate Rack</span> +</div> + +<p>This stock is specified to exact thickness, but some +allowance is made for trimming on the edges and +ends.</p> + +<p>Begin work by squaring up the posts to length +and beveling the top ends, then trim the back and +<span class='pagenum'>[115]</span> +side boards. These are nailed together, lapping the +back board over the side board. The posts are fastened +with dowels placed at equal distances apart. +Hot glue is used in the joints.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Dining-Room_Plate_Rack" id="Dining-Room_Plate_Rack"></a> +<img src="images/i-115.jpg" width="600" height="475" alt="Dining-Room Plate Rack" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Dining-Room Plate Rack</span> +</div> + +<p>The four shelves are now put in place. These +are notched out to fit around the posts and are +nailed and glued.</p> + +<p>While the glue is hardening on these, the plate +rails can be cut. These have 7/8-in grooves near the +front edge to receive the lower edge of the plates +when resting against the two strips placed 5 in. +above the plate rails and far enough back to prevent +the plates from falling forward. +<span class='pagenum'>[116]</span></p> + +<p>The rails are fastened to the two sides with +dowels, three at each end being sufficient. The two +strips fit in mortises cut in the side pieces. The +top is then put on. This fits around the posts and +rests on the sides. Hooks on which to hang cups +are placed under the rails. All parts are thoroughly +sandpapered before the stain is applied.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_MISSION_SIDEBOARD" id="A_MISSION_SIDEBOARD"></a>A MISSION SIDEBOARD</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Sideboard_for_the_Dining-Room_Set" id="Sideboard_for_the_Dining-Room_Set"></a> +<img src="images/i-116.jpg" width="600" height="497" alt="Sideboard for +the Dining-Room Set" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Sideboard for +the Dining-Room Set</span> +</div> + +<p>The sideboard is a piece designed to go with the +armchair and side chair with similar paneling design. +Like these chairs the sideboard should be +<span class='pagenum'>[117]</span> +made of hard wood and should be similarly finished. +The drawer pulls, if not made of wood, should be +of such metal and design as to harmonize with the +mission style. Wrought-iron effects in plain outlines +are appropriate.</p> + +<p>Drawer sides, bottoms and backs may be made +of some soft wood, such as yellow poplar. The +small top drawer may be lined with ooze leather for +holding silverware.</p> + +<p>Obtain the following stock:</p> + +<ul><li>2 posts, 2 by 2 by 50 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 posts, 2 by 2 by 39 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 top, 1 by 23 by 58 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 plate rails, 1/2 by 2 by 58 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 plate rail, 1/2 by 1-1/2 by 58 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 21 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 rails, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 21 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 rails, 7/8 by 3 by 21 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>4 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 10-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 slats, 3/8 by 3-1/2 by 10-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 panels, 3/8 by 18-3/4 by 10 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>1 back rail, 7/8 by 2 by 54 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 back rail, 7/8 by 3-1/8 by 54 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 back rail, 7/8 by 3 by 54 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 back stiles, 7/8 by 1-3/4 by 11 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 back stiles, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 11 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>1 back panel, 3/8 by 10 by 24-1/2 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>1 back panel, 3/8 by 11-1/2 by 53 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>2 back panels, 3/8 by 11 by 11 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>1 drawer front, 3/4 by 3 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 4 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 6 by 52-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 drawer ends, 1/2 by 3 by 20 in., S-4-S, poplar.</li> +<li>4 drawer ends, 1/2 by 4 by 20 in., S-4-S, poplar.</li> +<li>4 drawer ends, 5/8 by 6 by 20 in., S-4-S, poplar.</li> +<li>3 drawer backs, 3/8 by 4 by 24 in., S-2-S, poplar.</li> +<li>2 drawer backs, 3/8 by 6 by 52 in., S-2-S, poplar.</li> +<li>3 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 20 by 24 in., S-2-S, poplar.</li> +<li>2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 20 by 52 in., S-2-S, poplar.</li> +<li>2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>4 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 54 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>10 drawer slides, 3/4 by 2 by 22 in., S-4-S.</li> +<li>2 middle verticals, 3/4 by 22 by 13 in., S-2-S.</li> +<li>Drawer guides can be made from scrap stock.</li></ul> + +<p>A detailed description is hardly necessary for +such a piece of work as this. Anyone capable of +<span class='pagenum'>[118]</span> +building it, will know the order of the different operations +that are required in its construction.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Detail_of_the_Sideboard" id="Detail_of_the_Sideboard"></a> +<img src="images/i-118a.jpg" width="600" height="521" alt="Detail of the Sideboard" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Detail of the Sideboard</span> +</div> + +<p>It may be said that the two back panels at either +side of the small drawers may be filled with beveled +plate glass instead of wood if one so choose. +<span class='pagenum'>[119]</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 150px;"> +<img src="images/i-118b.jpg" width="150" height="158" alt="Figure" title="" /> +</div> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h3>Transcriber's Notes:</h3> + +<ul><li>Moved table of contents to the head of the document</li> +<li>Added a List of Illustrations</li> +<li>Folio 4: "Millplaned" changed to "Mill-planed"</li> +<li>Folio 34: Started new paragraph at "The bottom board...."</li> +<li>Added captions to Illustrations:</li> +<li>Folio 33: "Umbrella Stand"</li> +<li>Folio 34: "Detail of Umbrella Stand"</li> +<li>Folio 54" "Detail of Pedestal"</li></ul> + + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Mission Furniture, by H. 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