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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 01:57:31 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 01:57:31 -0700 |
| commit | 8264335e6925d0f538053e823917604e1fc32bbf (patch) | |
| tree | 0096709641ba31f1940029c5c5e31aa4c749e508 | |
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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/22972-8.txt b/22972-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5b2d063 --- /dev/null +++ b/22972-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,5358 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Rollo in Holland, by Jacob Abbott + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Rollo in Holland + +Author: Jacob Abbott + +Release Date: October 12, 2007 [EBook #22972] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ROLLO IN HOLLAND *** + + + + +Produced by D. Alexander, Janet Blenkinship and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive) + + + + + + + + + +ROLLO IN HOLLAND, + +BY + +JACOB ABBOTT. + + +BOSTON: BROWN, TAGGARD & CHASE, + +SUCCESSORS TO W. J. REYNOLDS & CO., 25 & 29 CORNHILL. + +1857. + +Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1857, by +JACOB ABBOTT, +In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of +Massachusetts. + +STEREOTYPED AT THE +BOSTON STEREOTYPE FOUNDRY. Damrell & Moore, Printers, Boston. + + + + +[Illustration: ROLLO IN HOLLAND.] + + + + +CONTENTS. + +CHAPTER PAGE + + I.--PREPARATIONS, 11 + II.--A BAD TRAVELLING COMPANION, 26 + III.--THE MAIL STEAMER, 44 + IV.--ENTERING HOLLAND, 67 + V.--WALKS ABOUT ROTTERDAM, 86 + VI.--DOING THE HAGUE, 109 + VII.--CORRESPONDENCE, 138 + VIII.--THE COMMISSIONER, 160 + IX.--THE GREAT CANAL, 169 + X.--THE DAIRY VILLAGE, 186 + XI.--CONCLUSION, 200 + +ENGRAVINGS. + + ROLLO IN HOLLAND.--(Frontispiece.) PAGE + VIEW IN HOLLAND, 10 + THE HANSOM CAB, 33 + LANDING FROM THE MAIL BOAT, 57 + DORT, 83 + THE FERRY BOAT, 101 + THE DINNER, 124 + THE BOAT FAMILY, 154 + THE TREKSCHUYT, 181 + THE DAIRY VILLAGE, 193 + CABIN OF PETER THE GREAT, 204 + + + ROLLO'S TOUR IN EUROPE. + + ORDER OF THE VOLUMES. + + ROLLO ON THE ATLANTIC. + ROLLO IN PARIS. + ROLLO IN SWITZERLAND. + ROLLO IN LONDON. + ROLLO ON THE RHINE. + ROLLO IN SCOTLAND. + ROLLO IN GENEVA. + ROLLO IN HOLLAND. + ROLLO IN NAPLES. + ROLLO IN ROME. + +[Illustration: VIEW IN HOLLAND.] + + + + +ROLLO IN HOLLAND. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +PREPARATIONS. + + +Holland is one of the most remarkable countries on the globe. The +peculiarities which make it remarkable arise from the fact that it is +almost perfectly level throughout, and it lies so low. A very large +portion of it, in fact, lies below the level of the sea, the waters +being kept out, as every body knows, by immense dikes that have stood +for ages. + +These dikes are so immense, and they are so concealed by the houses, and +trees, and mills, and even villages that cover and disguise them, that +when the traveller first sees them he can hardly believe that they are +dikes. Some of them are several hundred feet wide, and have a good broad +public road upon the top, with a canal perhaps by the side of it, and +avenues of trees, and road-side inns, and immense wind mills on the +other hand. When riding or walking along upon such a dike on one side, +down a long slope, they have a glimpse of water between the trees. On +the other, at an equal distance you see a green expanse of country, with +gardens, orchards, fields of corn and grain, and scattered farm houses +extending far and wide. At first you do not perceive that this beautiful +country that you see spreading in every direction on one side of the +road is below the level of the water that you see on the other side; but +on a careful comparison you find that it is so. When the tide is high +the difference is very great, and were it not for the dikes the people +would be inundated.[1] + +[Footnote 1: See Frontispiece.] + +Indeed, the dikes alone would not prevent the country from being +inundated; for it is not possible to make them perfectly tight, and even +if it were so, the soil beneath them is more or less pervious to water, +and thus the water of the sea and of the rivers would slowly press its +way through the lower strata, and oozing up into the land beyond, would +soon make it all a swamp. + +Then, besides the interpercolation from the soil, there is the rain. In +upland countries, the surplus water that falls in rain flows off in +brooks and rivers to the sea; but in land that is below the level of +the sea, there can be no natural flow of either brooks or rivers. The +rain water, therefore, that falls on this low land would remain there +stagnant, except the comparatively small portion of it that would be +evaporated by the sun and wind. + +Thus you see, that if the people of Holland were to rely on the dikes +alone to keep the land dry, the country would become in a very short +time one immense morass. + +To prevent this result it is necessary to adopt some plan to raise the +water, as fast as it accumulates in the low grounds, and convey it away. +This is done by pumps and other such hydraulic engines, and these are +worked in general by wind mills. + +They might be worked by steam engines; but steam engines are much more +expensive than wind mills. It not only costs much more to make them, but +the expense of working them from day to day is very great, on account of +the fuel which they require. The necessary attendance on a steam engine, +too, is very expensive. There must be engineers, with high pay, to watch +the engine and to keep it always in order, and firemen to feed the +fires, and ashmen to carry away the ashes and cinders. Whereas a wind +mill takes care of itself. + +The wind makes the wind mills go, and the wind costs nothing. It is +true, that the head of the mill must be changed from time to time, so as +to present the sails always in proper direction to the wind. But even +this is done by the wind itself. There is a contrivance by which the +mill is made to turn itself so as to face always in the right direction +towards the wind; and not only so, but the mill is sometimes so +constructed that if the wind blows too hard, it takes in a part of the +sails by its own spontaneous action, and thus diminishes the strain +which might otherwise be injurious to the machinery. + +Now, since the advantages of wind mills are so great over steam engines, +in respect especially to cheapness, perhaps you will ask why steam is +employed at all to turn machinery, instead of always using the wind. The +reason is, because the wind is so unsteady. Some days a wind mill will +work, and some days it will lie still; and thus in regard to the time +when it will do what is required of it, no reliance can be placed upon +it. This is of very little consequence in the work of pumping up water +from the sunken country in Holland; for, if for several days the mills +should not do their work, no great harm would come of it, since the +amount of water which would accumulate in that time would not do any +harm. The ground might become more wet, and the canals and reservoirs +get full,--just as brooks and rivers do on any upland country after a +long rain. But then, after the calm was over and the wind began to blow +again, the mills would all go industriously to work, and the surplus +water would soon be pumped up, and discharged over the dikes into the +sea again. + +Thus the irregularity in the action of the wind mills in doing such work +as this, is of comparatively little consequence. + +But in the case of some other kinds of work,--as for example the driving +of a cotton mill, or any other great manufactory in which a large number +of persons are employed,--it would be of the greatest possible +consequence; for when a calm time came, and the wind mill would not +work, all the hands would be thrown out of employ. They might sometimes +remain idle thus a number of days at a time, at a great expense to their +employers, or else at a great loss to themselves. Sometimes, for +example, there might be a fine breeze in the morning, and all the hands +would go to the mill and begin their work. In an hour the breeze might +entirely die away, and the spinners and weavers would all find their +jennies and looms going slower and slower, and finally stopping +altogether. And then, perhaps, two hours afterwards, when they had all +given up the day's work and gone away to their respective homes, the +breeze would spring up again, and the wind mill would go to work more +industriously than ever. + +This would not answer at all for a cotton mill, but it does very well +for pumping up water from a great reservoir into which drains and canals +discharge themselves to keep a country dry. + +And this reminds me of one great advantage which the people of Holland +enjoy on account of the low and level condition of their country; and +that is, it is extremely easy to make canals there. There are not only +no mountains or rocks in the way to impede the digging of them, but, +what is perhaps a still more important advantage, there is no difficulty +in filling them with water. In other countries, when a canal is to be +made, the very first question is, How is it to be filled? For this +purpose the engineer explores the whole country through which the canal +is to pass, to find rivers and streams that he can turn into it, when +the bed of it shall have been excavated; and sometimes he has to bring +these supplies of water for a great distance in artificial channels, +which often cross valleys by means of great aqueducts built up to hold +them. Sometimes a brook is in this way brought across a river,--the +river itself not being high enough to feed the canal. + +The people of Holland have no such difficulties as these to encounter in +their canals. The whole country being so nearly on a level with the sea, +they have nothing to do, when they wish for a canal, but to extend it in +some part to the sea shore, and then open a sluice way and let the water +in. + +It is true that sometimes they have to provide means to prevent the +ingress of too much water; but this is very easily done. + +It is thus so easy to make canals in Holland, that the people have been +making them for hundreds of years, until now almost the whole country is +intersected every where with canals, as other countries are with roads. +Almost all the traffic, and, until lately, almost all the travel of the +country, has been upon the canals. There are private canals, too, as +well as public. A farmer brings home his hay and grain from his fields +by water, and when he buys a new piece of land he makes a canal to it, +as a Vermont farmer would make a road to a new pasture or wood lot that +he had been buying. + +Rollo wished very much to see all these things--but there was one +question which it puzzled him very much to decide, and that was whether +he would rather go to Holland in the summer or in the winter. + +"I am not certain," said he to his mother one day, "whether it would not +be better for me to go in the winter." + +"It is very cold there in the winter," said his mother; "so I am told." + +"That is the very thing," said Rollo. "They have such excellent skating +on the canals. I want to see the boats go on the canals, and I want to +see the skating, and I don't know which I want to see most." + +"Yes," said his mother, "I recollect to have often seen pictures of +skating on the Dutch canals." + +"And I read, when I was a boy," continued Rollo, "that the women skate +to market in Holland." + +Rollo here observed that his mother was endeavoring to suppress a smile. +She seemed to try very hard, but she could not succeed in keeping +perfectly sober. + +"What are you laughing at, mother?" asked Rollo. + +Here Mrs. Holiday could no longer restrain herself, but laughed +outright. + +"Is it about the Dutch women skating to market?" asked Rollo. + +"I think they must look quite funny, at any rate," said Mrs. Holiday. + +What Mrs. Holiday was really laughing at was to hear Rollo talk about +"when he was a boy." But the fact was, that Rollo had now travelled +about so much, and taken care of himself in so many exigencies, that he +began to feel quite like a man. And indeed I do not think it at all +surprising that he felt so. + +"Which would you do, mother," said Rollo, "if you were I? Would you +rather go in the summer or in the winter?" + +"I would ask uncle George," said Mrs. Holiday. + +So Rollo went to find his uncle George. + +Rollo was at this time at Morley's Hotel, in London, and he expected to +find his uncle George in what is called the coffee room. The coffee room +in Morley's Hotel is a very pleasant place. It fronts on one side upon a +very busy and brilliant street, and on another upon a large open square, +adorned with monuments and fountains. On the side towards the square is +a bay window, and near this bay window were two or three small tables, +with gentlemen sitting at them, engaged in writing. There were other +tables along the sides of the room and at the other windows, where +gentlemen were taking breakfast. Mr. George was at one of the tables +near the bay window, and was busy writing. + +Rollo went to the place, and standing by Mr. George's side, he said in +an under tone,-- + +"Uncle George." + +Every body speaks in an under tone in an English coffee room. They do +this in order not to interrupt the conversation, or the reading, or the +writing of other gentlemen that may be in the room. + +"Wait a moment," said Mr. George, "till I finish this letter." + +So Rollo turned to the bay window and looked out, in order to amuse +himself with what he might observe in the street, till his uncle George +should be ready to talk with him. + +He saw the fountains in the square, and a great many children playing +about the basins. He saw a poor boy at a crossing brushing the pavement +industriously with an old broom, and then holding out his hand to the +people passing by, in hopes that some of them would give him a +halfpenny. He saw a policeman walking slowly up and down on the +sidewalk, wearing a glazed hat, and a uniform of blue broadcloth, with +his letter and number embroidered on the collar. He saw an elegant +carriage drive by, with a postilion riding upon one of the horses, and +two footmen in very splendid liveries behind. There was a lady in the +carriage, but she appeared old, and though she was splendidly dressed, +her face was very plain. + +"I wonder," said Rollo to himself, "how much she would give of her +riches and finery if she could be as young and as pretty as my cousin +Lucy." + +"Now, Rollo," said Mr. George, interrupting Rollo's reflections, "what +is the question?" + +"Why, I want to know," said Rollo, "whether you think we had better go +to Holland in the winter or in the summer." + +"Is it left to you to decide?" asked Mr. George. + +"Why, no," said Rollo, "not exactly. But mother asked me to consider +which I thought was best, and so I want to know your opinion." + +"Very well," said Mr. George, "go on and argue the case. After I have +heard it argued I will decide." + +Rollo then proceeded to explain to his uncle the advantages, +respectively, of going in the summer and in the winter. After hearing +him, Mr. George thought it would be decidedly better to go in the +summer. + +"You see," said he, "that the only advantage of going in the winter is +to see the skating. That is very important, I know. I should like to +see the Dutch women skating to market myself, very much. But then, in +the winter you could see very little of the canals, and the wind mills, +and all the other hydraulic operations of the country. Every thing would +be frozen up solid." + +"Father says that he can't go now very well," continued Rollo, "but that +I may go with you if you would like to go." + +Mr. George was just in the act of sealing his letter as Rollo spoke +these words; but he paused in the operation, holding the stick of +sealing wax in one hand and the letter in the other, as if he was +reflecting on what Rollo had said. + +"If we only had some one else to go with us," said Mr. George. + +"Should not we two be enough?" asked Rollo. + +"Why, you see," said Mr. George, "when we get into Holland we shall not +understand one word of the language." + +"What language do they speak?" asked Rollo. + +"Dutch," said Mr. George, "and I do not know any Dutch." + +"Not a word?" asked Rollo. + +"No," said Mr. George, "not a word. Ah, yes! I know one word. I know +that _dampschiff_ means steamboat. _Damp_, I suppose, means steam." + +Then Rollo laughed outright. Dampskiff, he said, was the funniest name +for steamboat that he ever heard. + +"Now, when we don't know a word of the language," added Mr. George, "we +cannot have any communication with the people of the country, but shall +be confined entirely to each other. Now, do you think that you could get +along with having nobody but me to talk to you for a whole fortnight?" + +"Yes, indeed!" said Rollo. "But then, uncle George," he continued, "how +are you going to get along at the hotels without knowing how to speak to +the people at all?" + +"By signs and gestures," said Mr. George, laughing. "Could not you make +a sign for something to eat?" + +"O, yes," said Rollo; and he immediately began to make believe eat, +moving his hands as if he had a knife and fork in them. + +"And what sign would you make for going to bed?" asked Mr. George. + +Here Rollo laid his head down to one side, and placed his hand under it, +as if it were a pillow, and then shut his eyes. + +"That is the sign for going to bed," said Rollo. "A deaf and dumb boy +taught it to me." + +"I wish he had taught you some more signs," said Mr. George. "Or I wish +we had a deaf and dumb boy here to go with us. Deaf and dumb people can +get along excellently well where they do not understand the language, +because they know how to make so many signs." + +"O, we can make up the signs as we go along," said Rollo. + +"Yes," said Mr. George. "I don't think that we shall have any great +difficulty about that. But then it would be pleasanter to go in a little +larger party. Two people are apt to get tired of each other, when there +is nobody else that they can speak a single word to for a whole +fortnight. I don't think that I should get tired of you. What I am +afraid of is, that you would get tired of me." + +There was a lurking smile on Mr. George's face as he said this. + +"O, uncle George!" said Rollo, "that is only your politeness. But then +if you really think that we ought to have some more company, perhaps the +Parkmans are going to Holland, and we might go with them." + +"I would not make a journey with the Parkmans," said Mr. George, "if +they would pay all my expenses, and give me five sovereigns a day." + +"Why, uncle George!" exclaimed Rollo; "I thought you liked Mr. Parkman +very much." + +"So I do," said Mr. George. "It is his wife that I would not go with." + +"O, uncle George!" exclaimed Rollo again. + +Rollo was very much surprised at hearing this declaration; and it was +very natural that he should be surprised, for Mrs. Parkman was a young +and beautiful lady, and she was very kindhearted and very amiable in +her disposition. Mr. Parkman, too, was very young. He had been one of +Mr. George's college classmates. He had been married only a short time +before he left America, and he was now making his bridal tour. + +Mr. George thought that Mrs. Parkman was very beautiful and very +intelligent, but he considered her a very uncomfortable travelling +companion. I think he judged her somewhat too harshly. But this was one +of Mr. George's faults. He did not like the ladies very much, and the +faults which he observed in them, from time to time, he was prone to +condemn much too harshly. + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +A BAD TRAVELLING COMPANION. + + +The reason why Mr. George did not like his friend Mr. Parkman's young +wife was not because of any want of natural attractiveness in her +person, or of amiableness in her disposition,--for she was beautiful, +accomplished, and kindhearted. But for all this, from a want of +consideration not uncommon among young ladies who are not much +experienced in the world, she was a very uncomfortable travelling +companion. + +It is the duty of a gentleman who has a lady under his charge, in making +a journey, to consult her wishes, and to conform to them so far as it is +possible, in determining where to go, and in making all the general +arrangements of the journey. But when these points are decided upon, +every thing in respect to the practical carrying into effect of the +plans thus formed should be left to the gentleman, as the executive +officer of the party; just as in respect to affairs relating to +housekeeping, or any thing else relating to a lady's department, the +lady should be left free to act according to her own judgment and taste +in arranging details, while in the general plans she conforms to the +wishes of her husband. For a lady, when travelling, to be continually +making suggestions and proposals about the baggage or the conveyances, +and expressing dissatisfaction, or wish for changes in this, that, or +the other, is as much a violation of propriety as it would be for the +gentleman to go into the kitchen, and there propose petty changes in +respect to the mode of cooking the dinner--or to stand by his wife at +her work table, and wish to have her thread changed from this place to +that--or to have some different stitch to be used in making a seam. A +lady very naturally feels disturbed if she finds that her husband does +not have confidence enough in her to trust her with such details. + +"I will make or mend for you whatever you may desire," she might say, +"and I will get for your dinner any thing that you ask for; but in the +way of doing it you ought to leave every thing to my direction. It is +better to let me have my own way, even if your way is better than mine. +For in matters of direction there ought always to be only one head, even +if it is not a very good one." + +And in the same manner a gentleman might say when travelling with a +lady,-- + +"I will arrange the journey to suit your wishes as far as is +practicable, and will go at such times and by such conveyances as you +may desire. I will also, at all the places where we stop, take you to +visit such objects of interest and curiosity as you wish to see. But +then when it comes to the details of the arrangements to be made,--the +orders to servants and commissioners, the determination of the times for +setting out, and the bargains to be made with coachmen and +innkeepers,--it is best to leave all those things to me; for it always +makes confusion to have two persons give directions at the same time." + +To say this would be right in both cases,--there must always be _one_ to +command. A great many families are kept in continual confusion by there +being two or more ladies who consider themselves more or less at the +head of it--as, for instance, a wife and a sister, or two sisters and a +mother. Napoleon used to say that _one_ bad general was better than +_two_ good ones; so important is it in war to have unity of command. It +is not much less important in social life. + +Mrs. Parkman did not understand this principle. Mr. George had seen an +example of her mode of management a day or two before, in taking a walk +with her and her husband in London. They were going to see the tunnel +under the Thames, which was three or four miles down the river from +Morley's Hotel, where they were all lodging. + +"Which way would you like to go?" asked Mr. Parkman. + +"Is there more than one way?" asked his wife. + +"Yes," said Mr. Parkman, "we can take a Hansom cab, and drive down +through the streets, or we can walk down to the river side, and there +take a boat. The boats are a great deal the cheapest, and the most +amusing; but the cab will be the most easy and comfortable, and the most +genteel. We shall have to walk nearly half a mile before we get to the +landing of the boats." + +"Is there much difference in the price?" asked Mrs. Parkman. + +"Not enough to be of any consequence," replied her husband. "It will +make a difference of about one and a half crown; for by the boats it +would be only two or three pence, while by the cab it will be as many +shillings. But that is of no consequence. We will go whichever way you +think you would enjoy the most." + +"You may decide for me," said Mrs. Parkman. "I'll leave it entirely to +you. It makes no difference to me." + +"Then, on the whole, I think we will try the boat," said Mr. Parkman; +"it will be so much more amusing, and we shall see so much more of +London life. Besides, we shall often read and hear about the steamers on +the Thames when we return to America, and it will be well for us to have +made one voyage in them. And, Mr. George, will you go with us?" + +"Yes," said Mr. George. + +So they all left the hotel together, and commenced their walk towards +the bridge where the nearest landing stage for the Thames boats lay. + +They had not gone but a very short distance before Mrs. Parkman began to +hang rather heavily upon her husband's arm, and asked him whether it was +much farther that they would have to walk. + +"O, yes," said Mr. Parkman. "I told you that we should have to walk +about half a mile." + +"Then we shall get all tired out," said his wife, "and we want our +strength for walking through the tunnel. It does not seem to be worth +while to take all this trouble just to save half a crown." + +Mr. Parkman, though he had only been married a little more than a month, +felt something like a sense of indignation rising in his breast, that +his wife should attribute to him such a motive for choosing the river, +after what he had said on the subject. But he suppressed the feeling, +and only replied quietly,-- + +"O, let us take a cab then, by all means. I hope you don't suppose that +I was going to take you by the boat to save any money." + +"I thought you said that you would save half a crown," rejoined his +wife. + +"Yes," said Mr. Parkman, "I did, it is true." + +Mr. Parkman was too proud to defend himself from such an imputation, +supported by such reasoning as this; so he only said, "We will go by a +cab. We will take a cab at the next stand." + +Mr. George instantly perceived that by this change in the plan, he was +made one too many for the party, since only two can ride conveniently in +a Hansom cab.[2] So he said at once, that he would adhere to the +original plan, and go by water. + +[Footnote 2: A Hansom cab is made like an old-fashioned chaise, only +that it is set very low, so that it is extremely easy to step in and out +of it, and the seat of the driver is high up behind. The driver drives +_over the top of the chaise_! Thus the view for the passengers riding +inside is wholly unobstructed, and this makes the Hansom cab a very +convenient and pleasant vehicle for two persons to ride in, through the +streets of a new and strange town.] + +"But, first," said he, "I will go with you to the stand, and see you +safe in a cab." + +So they turned into another street, and presently they came to a stand. +There was a long row of cabs there, of various kinds, all waiting to be +employed. Among them were several Hansoms. + +Mr. Parkman looked along the line to select one that had a good horse. +The distance was considerable that they had to go, and besides Mr. +Parkman knew that his wife liked always to go fast. So when he had +selected the best looking horse, he made a signal to the driver. The +driver immediately left the stand, and drove over to the sidewalk where +Mr. Parkman and his party were waiting. + +Mr. Parkman immediately opened the door of the cab to allow his wife to +go in; but she, instead of entering, began to look scrutinizingly into +it, and hung back. + +"Is this a nice cab?" said she. "It seems to me that I have seen nicer +cabs than this. + +"Let us look," she added, "and see if there is not a better one +somewhere along the line." + +The cabman, looking down from his exalted seat behind the vehicle, said +that there was not a nicer cab than his in London. + +"O, of course," said Mrs. Parkman. "They always say that. But _I_ can +find a nicer one, I'm sure, somewhere in the line." + +So saying she began to move on. Mr. Parkman gave the cabman a silver +sixpence--which is equal to a New York shilling--to compensate him +for having been called off from his station, and then followed his wife +across the street to the side where the cabs were standing. Mrs. Parkman +led the way all down the line, examining each hack as she passed it; but +she did not find any one that looked as well as the first. + +[Illustration: THE HANSOM CAB.] + +"After all," said she, "we might as well go back and take the first +one." So she turned and began to retrace her steps--the two gentlemen +accompanying her. But when they got back they found that the one which +Mr. Parkman had first selected was gone. It had been taken by another +customer. + +Mr. George was now entirely out of patience; but he controlled himself +sufficiently to suppress all outward manifestation of it, only saying +that he believed he would not wait any longer. + +"I will go down to the river," said he, "and take a boat, and when you +get a carriage you can go by land. I will wait for you at the entrance +to the tunnel." + +So he went away; and as soon as he turned the corner of the street he +snapped his fingers and nodded his head with the air of a man who has +just made a very lucky escape. + +"I thank my stars," said he to himself, "that I have not got such a lady +as that to take care of. Handsome as she is, I would not have her for a +travelling companion on any account whatever." + +It was from having witnessed several such exhibitions of character as +this that Mr. George had expressed himself so strongly to Rollo on the +subject of joining Mr. Parkman and his wife in making the tour of +Holland. + +But notwithstanding Mr. George's determination that he would not travel +in company with such a lady, it seemed to be decreed that he should do +so, for he left London about a week after this to go to Holland with +Rollo alone; and though he postponed setting out for several days, so as +to allow Mr. and Mrs. Parkman time to get well under way before them, he +happened to fall in with them several times in the course of the +journey. The first time that he met with them was in crossing the +Straits of Dover. + +There are several ways by which a person may go to Holland from London. +The cheapest is to take a steamer, by which means you go down the +Thames, and thence pass directly across the German Ocean to the coast of +Holland. But that makes quite a little voyage by sea, during which +almost all persons are subject to a very disagreeable kind of sickness, +on account of the small size of the steamers, and the short tossing +motion of the sea that almost always prevails in the waters that lie +around Great Britain. + +So Mr. George and Rollo, who neither of them liked to be seasick, +determined to go another way. They concluded to go down by railway to +Dover, and then to go to Calais across the strait, where the passage is +the shortest. Mr. and Mrs. Parkman had set off several days before them, +and Mr. George supposed that by this time they were far on their way +towards Holland. But they had been delayed by Mrs. Parkman's desire to +go to Brighton, which is a great watering place on the coast, not far +from Dover. There Mr. and Mrs. Parkman had spent several days, and it so +happened that in going from Brighton to Dover they met, at the junction, +the train that was bringing Mr. George and Rollo down from London; and +thus, though both parties were unconscious of the fact, they were +travelling along towards Dover, after leaving the junction, in the same +train, and when they stepped out of the carriages, upon the Dover +platform, there they were all together. + +Mr. Parkman and Mr. George were very glad to see each other; and while +they were shaking hands with each other, and making mutual explanations, +Mrs. Parkman went to the door of the station to see what sort of a place +Dover was. + +She saw some long piers extending out into the water, and a great many +ships and steamers lying near them. The town lay along the shore, +surrounding an inner harbor enclosed by the walls of the piers. Behind +the town were high cliffs, and an elevated plain above, on which a great +number of tents were pitched. It was the encampment of an army. A little +way along the shore a vast promontory was seen, crowned by an ancient +and venerable looking castle, and terminated by a range of lofty and +perpendicular cliffs of chalk towards the sea. + +"What a romantic place!" said Mrs. Parkman to herself. "It is just such +a place as I like. I'll make William stay here to-day." + +Just then she heard her husband's voice calling to her. + +"Louise!" + +She turned and saw her husband beckoning to her. He was standing with +Mr. George and Rollo near the luggage van, as they call it in England, +while the railway porters were taking out the luggage. + +Mrs. Parkman walked towards the place. + +"They say, Louise," said Mr. Parkman, "that it is time for us to go on +board the boat. She is going to sail immediately." + +"Ah! but, William," said Mrs. Parkman, "let us stay here a little while. +Dover is such a romantic looking place." + +"Very well," said Mr. Parkman, "we will stay if you like. Are you going +to stay, Mr. George?" + +"Yes," said Mr. George; "Rollo and I were going to stay till this +afternoon. There is a boat to cross at four o'clock." + +It was about eleven o'clock in the morning when this conversation +occurred. The porter stood by all the time with Mr. Parkman's two trunks +in his charge, waiting to have it decided when they were to go. + +"I should think, sir," said the porter, "that as you have a lady with +you, you would find this boat better. This is a tidal steamer, but the +four o'clock is the mail boat, and it will be pretty rough this +afternoon. There is a breeze coming up." + +"O, never mind the breeze," said Mrs. Parkman. "We are used to it, +porter. We've crossed the Atlantic." + +"Very well," said Mr. Parkman, "we will wait until four o'clock." + +"Then I'll put the luggage in the luggage room," said the porter, "and +take it to the boat at half past three. That's the way to the hotel," he +added, pointing the way. + +There are several very nice hotels in Dover, but the one which the +porter referred to is one of the finest and most beautifully situated +hotels in Europe. It is a large and handsome edifice, built in modern +style, and it stands close to the railroad station, on a point of land +overlooking the sea. The coffee room, which, unlike other English coffee +rooms, is used by both ladies and gentlemen, is a very spacious and +splendidly decorated apartment, with large windows on three sides of it, +overlooking the sea and the neighboring coasts. Each sash of these +windows is glazed with one single pane of plate glass, so that whether +they are shut or open there is nothing to intercept the view. The room +is furnished with a great number of tables, each large enough to +accommodate parties of four or six, and all, except two or three in +different parts of the room that are reserved for reading and writing, +are covered with neat white table cloths, and other preparations more or +less advanced for breakfasts or dinners that may have been ordered, +while at almost all times of the day, a greater or less number of them +are occupied by parties of tourists, their bags and baskets lying on the +neighboring chairs. + +It was into this room, so occupied, that our travellers were ushered as +they walked from the station into the hotel. + +Mrs. Parkman walked forward, and took her seat near a window. The +gentlemen attended her. + +"What a magnificent view!" said she. + +The view was indeed magnificent. Across the water was to be seen the +coast of France, lying like a low cloud close to the horizon. Ships, and +steamers, and fish boats, and every other sort of craft were seen plying +to and fro over the water,--some going out, others coming in. Through +one of the windows in the end of the room, Mrs. Parkman could see the +castle crowning its bold and lofty promontory, and the perpendicular +cliffs of chalk, with the sea beating against the base of them below. +Through the opposite window, which of course was at the other end of the +room, the view extended down the coast for a great distance, showing +point after point, and headland after headland, in dim perspective--with +a long line of surf rolling incessantly upon the beach, which seemed, in +that direction, interminable. + +After looking for some time at the view from the windows, Mrs. Parkman +turned to observe the company in the room, and to watch the several +parties of new comers as they successively entered. She wished to see if +there were any young brides among them. While she was thus engaged, her +husband selected a table that was vacant, and ordered breakfast. Mr. +George and Rollo did the same at another table near. + +While Mr. George and Rollo were at the table drinking their coffee, Mr. +George asked Rollo what he supposed the porter meant by saying that the +eleven o'clock boat was a tidal boat. + +"_I_ know," said Rollo. "I read it in the guide book. The tidal steamers +go at high tide, or nearly high tide, and if you go in them you embark +from the pier on one side, and you land at the pier on the other. But +the mail steamers go at a regular hour every day, and then when it +happens to be low tide, they cannot get to the pier, and the passengers +have to land in small boats. That is what the porter meant when he said +that it would not be pleasant for a lady to go in the mail steamer. It +is very unpleasant for ladies to be landed in small boats when the +weather is rough." + +"I don't believe that Mrs. Parkman understood it," said Mr. George. + +"Nor I either," said Rollo. + +"I presume she thought," added Mr. George, "that when the porter spoke +about the rough sea, he only referred to the motion of the steamer in +going over." + +"Yes," said Rollo, "but what he really meant was, that it would be bad +for her to get down from the steamer into the small boat at the landing. +I am afraid that she will not like it, though I think that it will be +real good fun." + +"Very likely it will be fun for _you_," said Mr. George. + +"I would a great deal rather go across in a mail steamer at low tide +than in any other way," said Rollo. + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +THE MAIL STEAMER. + + +Rollo's explanation in respect to the mail steamer was correct. As has +before been stated in some one or other of the volumes of this series, +the northern coast of France is low, and the shore is shelving for +almost the whole extent of it, and there are scarcely any good harbors. +Immense sandy beaches extend along the coast, sloping so gradually +outward, that when the tide goes down the sands are left bare for miles +and miles towards the sea. The only way by which harbors can be made on +such a shore is to find some place where a creek or small river flows +into the sea, and then walling in the channel at the mouth of the creek, +so as to prevent it being choked up by sand. In this way a passage is +secured, by which, when the tide is high, pretty good sized vessels can +get in; but, after all that they can do in such a case, they cannot make +a harbor which can be entered at low tide. When the tide is out, nothing +is left between the two piers, which form the borders of the channel, +but muddy flats, with a small, sluggish stream, scarcely deep enough to +float a jolly boat, slowly meandering in the midst of them towards the +sea. + +The harbor of California is such a harbor as this. Accordingly, in case +a steamer arrives there when the tide is down, there is no other way but +for her to anchor in the offing until it rises again; and the +passengers, if they wish to go ashore, must clamber down the side of the +vessel into a small boat, and be pulled ashore by the oarsmen. In smooth +weather this is very easily done. But in rough weather, when both +steamer and boat are pitching and tossing violently up and down upon the +waves, it is _not_ very easy or agreeable, especially for timid ladies. + +After finishing their breakfast, Mr. George and Rollo went out, and they +rambled about the town until the time drew near for the sailing of the +boat. Then they went to the station for the luggage, and having engaged +a porter to take it to the boat, they followed him down to the pier till +they came to the place where the boat was lying. After seeing the trunk +put on board they went on board themselves. A short time afterwards Mr. +and Mrs. Parkman came. + +The steamer, like all the others which ply between the coasts of France +and England, was quite small, and the passengers were very few. There +were only four or five ladies, and not far from the same number of +gentlemen. As the passage was only expected to occupy about two hours, +the passengers did not go below, but arranged themselves on seats upon +the deck--some along the sides of the deck by the bulwarks, and some +near the centre, around a sort of house built over the passage way which +led down into the cabin. + +Soon after Mr. and Mrs. Parkman came on board, Mr. Parkman said to his +wife,-- + +"Now, Louise, my dear, you will be less likely to be sick if you get +some good place where you can take a reclining posture, and so remain +pretty still until we get over." + +"O, I shall not be sick," said she. "I am not at all afraid." + +So she began walking about the deck with an unconcerned and careless +air, as if she had been an old sailor. + +Pretty soon Mr. George saw two other ladies coming, with their husbands, +over the plank. The countenances of these ladies were very pleasing, and +there was a quiet gentleness in their air and manner which impressed Mr. +George very strongly in their favor. + +As soon as they reached the deck, and while their husbands were +attending to the disposal of the luggage, they began to look for seats. + +"We will get into the most comfortable position we can," said one of +them, "and keep still till we get nearly across." + +"Yes," said the other, "that will be the safest." + +So they chose good seats near the companion way, and sat down there, and +their husbands brought them carpet bags to put their feet upon. + +In about fifteen minutes after this the steamer put off from the pier, +and commenced her voyage. She very soon began to rise and fall over the +waves, with a short, uneasy motion, which was very disagreeable. The +passengers, however, all remained still in the places which they had +severally chosen,--some reading, others lying quiet with their eyes +closed, as if they were trying to go to sleep. + +Mr. Parkman himself tried to do this, but his wife would not leave him +in peace. She came to him continually to inquire about this or that, or +to ask him to look at some vessel that was coming in sight, or at some +view on the shore. All this time the wind, and the consequent motion of +the steamer, increased. Scudding clouds were seen flitting across the +sky, from which there descended now and then misty showers of rain. +These clouds gradually became more frequent and more dense, until at +length the whole eastern sky was involved in one dense mass of +threatening vapor. + +It began to grow dark, too. The specified time for sailing was four +o'clock; but there was a delay for the mails, and it was full half past +four before the steamer had left the pier. And now, before she began to +draw near the French coast, it was nearly half past six. At length the +coast began slowly to appear. Its outline was dimly discerned among the +misty clouds. + +Long before this time, however, Mrs. Parkman had become quite sick. She +first began to feel dizzy, and then she turned pale, and finally she +came and sat down by her husband, and leaned her head upon his shoulder. + +She had been sitting in this posture for nearly half an hour, when at +length she seemed to feel better, and she raised her head again. + +"Are we not nearly there?" said she. + +"Yes," said her husband. "The lighthouse is right ahead, and the ends of +the piers. In ten minutes more we shall be going in between them, and +then all the trouble will be over." + +Rollo and Mr. George were at this time near the bows. They had gone +there to look forward, in order to get as early a glimpse as possible +of the boats that they knew were to be expected to come out from the +pier as soon as the steamer should draw nigh. + +"Here they come!" said Rollo, at length. + +"Yes," said Mr. George. "I see them." + +It was so nearly dark that the boats could not be seen distinctly. +Indeed there was not much to be discerned but a black moving mass, +slowly coming out from under the walls of the pier. + +The steamer had now nearly reached the ground where she was to anchor, +and so the seamen on the forecastle took in the foresail, which had been +spread during the voyage, and the helmsman put down the helm. The head +of the steamer then slowly came round till it pointed in a direction +parallel to the shore. This carried the boats and the pier somewhat out +of view from the place where Mr. George and Rollo had been standing. + +"Now we can see them better aft," said Rollo. + +"Yes," said Mr. George, "and they will board us aft too; so we had +better be there ready." + +Accordingly Mr. George and Rollo went aft again, and approached the +gangway on the side where they supposed the boats would come. + +In going there they passed round first on the other side of the entrance +to the cabin, where the two ladies were sitting that have already been +described. As they went by one of the gentlemen came to them and said,-- + +"Keep up your courage a few minutes longer. We are very near the pier. +In ten minutes we shall be in smooth water, and all will be over." + +The ladies seemed much relieved and rejoiced to hear this, and then the +gentleman went with Mr. George and Rollo towards the gangway, in order +that they might make further observations. He was joined there a moment +afterwards by his companion. Now, these gentlemen, as it happened, knew +nothing about the plan of landing in boats. They had made no particular +inquiry at Dover in respect to the steamer that they had come in, but +took it for granted that she would go into the harbor as usual, and land +the passengers at the pier. Their attention had just been attracted to +the singular movement of the steamer, when Rollo and Mr. George came up. + +"_What!_" said one of them, speaking with a tone of surprise, and +looking about eagerly over the water. "We are coming to, Mr. Waldo. What +can that mean?" + +Just then the little fleet of boats, six or seven in number, began to +come into view from where the gentlemen stood. They were dimly seen at a +distance, and looked like long, black animals, slowly advancing over the +dark surface of the water, and struggling fearfully with the waves. + +"What boats can those be?" said Mr. Waldo, beginning to look a little +alarmed. + +He was alarmed not for himself, but for his wife, who was very frail and +delicate in health, and ill fitted to bear any unusual exposure. + +"I am sure I cannot imagine," replied the other. + +"It looks marvellously as if they were coming out for us," said Mr. +Waldo. + +"Can it be possible, Mr. Albert, that we are to land in boats such a +night as this?" continued he. + +"It looks like it," replied the other. "Yes, they are really coming +here." + +The boats were now seen evidently advancing towards the steamer. They +came on in a line, struggling fearfully with the waves. + +"They look like spectres of boats," said Mr. George to Rollo. + +Mr. Albert now went round to the other side of the companion way, to the +place where the two ladies were sitting. + +"Ladies," said he, "I am very sorry to say that we shall be obliged to +land in boats." + +"In boats!" said the ladies, surprised. + +"Yes," said Mr. Albert, "the tide is out, and I suppose we cannot go +into port. The steamer has come to, and the boats are coming +alongside." + +The ladies looked out over the dark and stormy water with an emotion of +fear, but they did not say a word. + +"There is no help for it," continued the gentleman; "and you have +nothing to do but to resign yourselves passively to whatever comes. If +we had known that this steamer would not go into port, we would not have +come in her; but now that we are here we must go through." + +"Very well," said the ladies. "Let us know when the boat for us is +ready." + +Mr. Albert then returned to the gangway, where Rollo and Mr. George were +standing. The foremost boat had come alongside, and the seamen were +throwing the mail bags into it. When the mails were all safely stowed in +the boat, some of the passengers that stood near by were called upon to +follow. Mr. George and Rollo, being near, were among those thus called +upon. + +"Wait a moment," said Mr. George to Rollo, in a low tone. "Let a few of +the others go first, that we may see how they manage it." + +It proved to be rather difficult to manage it; for both the steamer and +the boat were rocking and tossing violently on the waves, and as their +respective motions did not at all correspond, they thumped against each +other continually, as the boat rose and fell up and down the side of +the steamer in a fearful manner. It was dark too, and the wind was +blowing fresh, which added to the frightfulness of the scene. + +A crowd of people stood about the gangway. Some of these people were +passengers waiting to go down, and others, officers of the ship, to help +them. The seamen in the boat below were all on the alert too, some +employed in keeping the boat off from the side of the ship, in order to +prevent her being stove or swamped, while others stood on each side of +the place where the passengers were to descend, with uplifted arms, +ready to seize and hold them when they came down. + +There was a little flight of steps hanging down the side of the steamer, +with ropes on each side of it in lieu of a balustrade. The passenger who +was to embark was directed to turn round and begin to go down these +steps backward, and then, when the sea lifted the boat so that the +seamen on board could seize hold of him, they all cried out +vociferously, "LET GO!" and at the same moment a strong sailor grasped +him around the waist, brought him down into the bottom of the boat in a +very safe, though extremely unceremonious manner. + +After several gentlemen and one lady had thus been put into the boat, +amid a great deal of calling and shouting, and many exclamations of +surprise and terror, the officer at the gangway turned to Mr. George, +saying,-- + +"Come, sir!" + +There was no time to stop to talk; so Mr. George stepped forward, saying +to Rollo as he went, "Come right on directly after me;" and in a moment +more he was seized by the man, and whirled down into the boat, he +scarcely knew how. Immediately after he was in, there came some +unusually heavy seas, and the steamer and the boat thumped together so +violently that all the efforts of the seamen seemed to be required to +keep them apart. + +"Push off!" said the officer. + +"Here, stop! I want to go first," exclaimed Rollo. + +"No more in this boat," said the officer. "Push off!" + +"Never mind," said Rollo, calling out to Mr. George, "I'll come by and +by." + +"All right," said Mr. George. + +By this time the boat had got clear of the steamer, and she now began to +move slowly onward, rising and falling on the waves, and struggling +violently to make her way. + +"I am glad they did not let me go," said Rollo. "I would rather stay +and see the rest go first." + +Another boat was now seen approaching, and Rollo stepped back a little +to make way for the people that were to go in it, when he heard Mrs. +Parkman's voice, in tones of great anxiety and terror, saying to her +husband,-- + +"I cannot go ashore in a boat in that way, William. I cannot possibly, +and I will not!" + +"Why, Louise," said her husband, "what else can we do?" + +"I'll wait till the steamer goes into port, if I have to wait till +midnight," replied Mrs. Parkman positively. "It is a shame! Such +disgraceful management! Could not they find out how the tide would be +here before they left Dover?" + +"Yes," replied Mr. Parkman. "Of course they knew perfectly well how the +tide would be." + +"Then why did not they leave at such an hour as to make it right for +landing here?" + +"There _are_ boats every day," said Mr. Parkman, "which leave at the +right time for that, and most passengers take them. But the mails must +come across at regular hours, whether the tide serves or not, and boats +must come to bring the mails, and they, of course, allow passengers to +come in these boats too, if they choose. We surely cannot complain of +that." + +"Then they ought to have told us how it was," said Mrs. Parkman. "I +think it is a shameful deception, to bring us over in this way, and not +let us know any thing about it." + +"But they did tell us," said Mr. Parkman. "Do not you recollect that the +porter at the station told us that this was a mail boat, and that it +would not be pleasant for a lady." + +"But I did not know," persisted Mrs. Parkman, "that he meant that we +should have to land in this way. He did not tell us any thing about +that." + +"He told us that it was a mail boat, and he meant by that to tell us +that we could not land at the pier. It is true, we did not understand +him fully, but that is because we come from a great distance, and do not +understand the customs of the country. That is our misfortune. It was +not the porter's fault." + +"I don't think so at all," said Mrs. Parkman. "And you always take part +against me in such things, and I think it is really unkind." + +All this conversation went on in an under tone; but though there was a +great deal of noise and confusion on every side, Rollo could hear it +all. While he was listening to it,--or rather while he was _hearing_ it, +for he took no pains to listen,--the gentleman who had been talking +with Mr. Waldo, and whom the latter had called Mr. Albert, went round to +the two ladies who were waiting to be called, and said,-- + +"Now, ladies, the boat is ready. Follow me. Say nothing, but do just as +you are told, and all will go well." + +[Illustration: LANDING FROM THE MAIL BOAT.] + +So the ladies came one after the other in among the crowd that gathered +around the gangway, and there, before they could bring their faculties +at all to comprehend any thing distinctly amid the bewildering +confusion of the scene, they found their bags and shawls taken away from +them, and they themselves turned round and gently forced to back down +the steps of the ladder over the boiling surges, when, in a moment more, +amid loud shouts of "LET GO!" they were seized by the sailors in the +boat, and down they went, they knew not how, for a distance of many feet +into the stern of the boat, where they suddenly found themselves seated, +while the boat itself was rocking violently to and fro, and thumping +against the side of the steamer in a frightful manner. + +The officer, who had charge of the debarkation on the deck of the +steamer above, immediately called to Mrs. Parkman. + +"Come, madam!" said he. + +"No," said she, "I can't possibly go ashore in that way." + +"Then you will have to stay on board all night." + +"Well, I'd rather stay on board all night," said she. + +"And you will have to go back to Dover, madam," continued the officer, +speaking in a very stern and hurried manner, "for the steamer is not +going into the pier at all." + +Then immediately turning to Rollo, he said, "Come, young man!" + +So Rollo marched up to the gangway, and was in a moment whirled down +into the boat, as the others had been. Immediately afterwards the boat +pushed off, and the sailors began to row, leaving Mr. and Mrs. Parkman +on board the steamer. How they were to get to the shore Rollo did not +know. + +Rollo began to look about over the water. It had become almost entirely +dark, and though the moon, which was full, had, as it happened, broken +out through the clouds a short time before, when they were getting into +the boats, she had now become obscured again, and every thing seemed +enveloped in deep gloom. Still Rollo could see at a short distance +before him the other boats slowly making their way over the wild and +stormy water. He could also see the ends of the piers dimly defined in +the misty air, and the tall lighthouse beyond, with a bright light +burning in the lantern at the top of it. + +"We shall only be a few minutes, now," said one of the gentlemen. "It is +not far to the piers." + +The boat went on, pitching and tossing over the waves, with her head +towards the piers. The pilot who steered the boat called out continually +to the oarsmen, and the oarsmen shouted back to him; but nobody could +understand such sailor language as they used. At length, on looking +forward again, Rollo saw that the boats before him, instead of going on +in a line towards the land, were slowly scattering in all directions, +and that their own boat, instead of heading towards the pier as at +first, gradually turned round, and seemed to be going along in a +direction parallel to the coast, as the steamer had done. + +"What!" exclaimed Mr. Albert, on observing this, "we are not going +towards the piers. Where can we be going?" + +The other gentleman shook his head, and said he did not know. + +The ladies remained quietly in their places. There was evidently nothing +for them to do, and so they concluded, very sensibly, to do nothing. + +The boat slowly turned her head round, all the time pitching and tossing +violently on the billows, until finally she was directed almost towards +the steamer again. + +"What can be the matter?" asked one of the gentlemen, addressing the +other. "We are not heading towards the shore." Then turning towards the +pilot, he said to him,-- + +"What is the matter? Why cannot we go in?" + +The pilot, who spoke English very imperfectly, answered, "It is a bar. +The water is not enough." + +"There is a bar," said the gentleman, "outside the entrance to the +harbor, and the water is not deep enough even for these boats to go +over. We can see it." + +Rollo and the others looked in the direction where the gentleman +pointed, and he could see a long, white line formed by the breakers on +the bar, extending each way as far as the eye could reach along the +shore. Beyond were to be dimly seen the heads of the piers, and a low +line of the coast on either hand, with the lighthouse beyond, towering +high into the air, and a bright and steady light beaming from the summit +of it. + +"I hope the tide is not going _down_," said the gentleman, "for in that +case we may have to wait here half the night." + +"Is the tide going down, or coming up?" he said, turning again to the +pilot. + +"It will come up. The tide will come up," answered the pilot. + +"What does he say?" asked one of the ladies in a whisper. + +"He says that the tide will come up," replied the gentleman. "Whether he +means it is coming up now, or that it will come up some time or other, I +do not know. We have nothing to do but to remain quiet, and await the +result." + +The clouds had been for some time growing darker and darker, and now it +began to rain. So the gentlemen took out their umbrellas and spread +them, and the party huddled together in the bottom of the boat, and +sheltered themselves there as well as they could from the wind and rain. +They invited Rollo to come under the umbrellas too, but he said that the +rain would not hurt his cap, and he preferred to sit where he could look +out and see what they would do. + +"Very well," said one of the gentlemen. "Tell us, from time to time, how +we get along." + +So Rollo watched the manoeuvring of the boat, and reported, from time +to time, the progress that she was making. It was not very easy for him +to make himself heard, on account of the noise of the winds and waves, +and the continual vociferations of the pilot and the seamen. + +"We are headed now," said he, "right away from the shore. We are pointed +towards the steamer. I can just see her, working up and down in the +offing. + +"Now the men are backing water," he continued. "We are going stern +foremost towards the bar. I believe they are going to try to back her +over." + +The boat now rapidly approached the line of breakers, moving stern +foremost. The roar of the surf sounded nearer and nearer. At length the +ladies and gentlemen under the umbrellas looked out, and they saw +themselves in the midst of rolling billows of foam, on which the boat +rose and fell like a bubble. Presently they could feel her thump upon +the bottom. The next wave lifted her up and carried her towards the +shore, and then subsiding, brought her down again with another thump +upon the sand. The pilot shouted out new orders to the seamen. They +immediately began to pull forward with their oars. He had found that the +water was yet too shallow on the bar, and that it would be impossible to +pass over. So the sailors were pulling the boat out to sea again. + +The ladies were, of course, somewhat alarmed while the boat was thumping +on the bar, and the boiling surges were roaring so frightfully around +them; but they said nothing. They knew that they had nothing to do, and +so they remained quiet. + +"We are clear of the bar, now," said Rollo, continuing his report. "I +can see the breakers in a long line before us, but we are clear of them. +Now the sailors are getting out the anchor. I can see a number of the +other boats that are at anchor already." + +The anchor, or rather the grapnel which served as an anchor, was now +thrown overboard, and the boat came to, head to the wind. There she +lay, pitching and tossing very uneasily on the sea. The other boats were +seen lying in similar situations at different distances. One was very +near; so near, that instead of anchoring herself, the seamen threw a +rope from her on board the boat where Rollo was, and so held on by her, +instead of anchoring herself. In this situation the whole fleet of boats +remained for nearly an hour. Rollo kept a good lookout all the time, +watching for the first indications of any attempt to move. + +At length he heard a fresh command given by the pilot, in language that +he could not understand; but the sailors at the bows immediately began +to take in the anchor. + +"They are raising the anchor," said he. "Now we are going to try it +again. There is one boat gone already. She is just coming to the bar. +She is now just in the breakers. I can see the white foam all around +her. She is going in. Now she is over. I can see the whole line of foam +this side of her. Our boat will be there very soon." + +In a very few minutes more the boat entered the surf, and soon began to +thump as before at every rise and fall of the seas. But as each +successive wave came up, she was lifted and carried farther over the +bar, and at last came to deep water on the other side. + +"It is all over now," said one of the gentlemen, "and, besides, it has +stopped raining." So he rose from his place and shut the umbrella. The +ladies looked around, and to their great joy saw that they were just +entering between the ends of the piers. The passage way was not very +wide, and the piers rose like high walls on each side of it; but the +water was calm and smooth within, and the boats glided along one after +another in a row, in a very calm and peaceful manner. At length they +reached the landing stairs, which were built curiously within the pier, +among the piles and timbers, and there they all safely disembarked. + +On reaching the top of the stairs, Rollo found Mr. George waiting for +him. + +"Uncle George," said Rollo, "here I am." + +"Have you had a good time?" asked Mr. George. + +"Yes," said Rollo, "excellent." + +"And what became of Mr. and Mrs. Parkman?" + +"I don't know," said Rollo; "I left them on board the steamer. She +declared that she would not come in a small boat." + +"You and I," said Mr. George, "will go off to-morrow morning by the +first train, and go straight to Holland as fast as we can, so as to get +out of their way." + +"Well," said Rollo. "Though I don't care much about it either way." + +Mr. George, however, carried his plan into effect. The next day they +went to Antwerp; and on the day following they crossed the Belgian +frontier, and entered Holland. + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +ENTERING HOLLAND. + + +Rollo and Mr. George went into Holland by the railway. It was a long +time before Rollo learned that in travelling from one European country +to another, he was not to expect any visible line of demarcation to show +the frontier. Boys at school, in studying the shape and conformation of +different countries on the map, and seeing them marked by distinct +colored boundaries, are very apt to imagine that they will see +something, when travelling from one country to another, to show them by +visible signs when they pass the frontier. + +But there is nothing of the kind. The green fields, the groves, the +farmhouse, the succession of villages continues unchanged as you travel, +so that, as you whirl along in the railway carriage, there is nothing to +warn you of the change, except the custom house stations, where the +passports of travellers are called for, and the baggage is examined. + +"Uncle George," said Rollo, after looking out of the window at a place +where the train stopped, twenty or thirty miles from Antwerp, "I think +we are coming to the frontier." + +"Why so?" asked Mr. George. + +"Because the Belgian custom house is at this station, and the next will +be the Dutch custom house." + +Rollo knew that this was the Belgian custom house by seeing the word +DOUANE over one of the doors of the station, and under it the words +VISITE DES BAGAGES, which means _examination of baggage_. There were +besides a great many soldiers standing about, which was another +indication. + +"How do you know that it is the Belgian custom house?" asked Mr. George. + +"Because all these soldiers are in the Belgian uniform," said he. "I +know the Belgian uniform. I don't know the Dutch uniform, but I suppose +I shall see it at the next station." + +Rollo was perfectly right in his calculations. The last station on the +line of the railway in Belgium was the frontier station for Belgium, and +here travellers, coming from Holland, were called upon to show their +passports, and to have their baggage examined. In the same manner the +first station beyond, which was the first one in Holland, was the +frontier station for that country, and there passengers going from +Belgium into Holland were stopped and examined in the same way. + +After going on a few miles from the Belgium station, the whistle blew +and the train began to stop. + +"Here we are!" said Rollo. + +"Yes," said Mr. George; "and now comes the time of trial for the musical +box." + +Rollo had bought a musical box at Antwerp, and he had some fears lest he +might be obliged to pay a duty upon it, in going into Holland. Mr. +George had told him that he thought there was some danger, but Rollo +concluded that he would take the risk. + +"They have no business to make me pay duty upon it," said he to Mr. +George. + +"Why not?" asked Mr. George. + +"Because it is not for merchandise," said Rollo. "It is not for sale. I +have bought it for my own use alone." + +"That has nothing to do with it," said Mr. George. + +"Yes it has, a great deal to do with it," replied Rollo. + +There might have been quite a spirited discussion between Mr. George and +Rollo, on this old and knotty question, over which tourists in Europe +are continually stumbling, had not the train stopped. The moment that +the motion ceased, the doors of all the carriages were opened, and a man +passed along the line calling out in French,-- + +"Gentlemen and ladies will all descend here, for the examination of +passports and baggage." + +Mr. George and Rollo had no baggage, except a valise which they carried +with them in the carriage. Mr. George took this valise up and stepped +down upon the platform. + +"Now, Rollo," said Mr. George, "if they find your musical box and charge +duty upon it, pay it like a man." + +"Yes," said Rollo, "I will." + +"And don't get up a quarrel with the custom house officer on the +subject," continued Mr. George, "for he has the whole military force of +the kingdom of Holland at his command, and what he says is to be done, +in this territory, must be done." + +So saying, Mr. George, valise in hand, followed the crowd of passengers +through a door, over which was inscribed the Dutch word for baggage. In +the centre of this room there was a sort of low counter, enclosing a +sort of oblong square. Within the square were a number of custom house +officers, ready to examine the baggage which the porters and the +passengers were bringing in, and laying upon the counter, all around the +four sides of the square. + +Mr. George brought up his valise, and placed it on the counter. A custom +house officer, who had just examined and marked some other parcels, +turned to Mr. George's just as he had unlocked and opened it. + +"Have you any thing to declare?" said the officer. + +"Nothing, sir," said Mr. George. + +The officer immediately shut the valise, and marked it on the back with +a piece of chalk, and Mr. George locked it and took it away. + +"Are you through?" asked Rollo. + +"Yes," said Mr. George. + +Mr. George then took the valise and followed a crowd of passengers, who +were going through a door at the end of the room opposite to where they +came in. There was an officer in uniform on each side of this door. +These officers examined every bag, valise, or parcel that the passengers +had in their hands, to see if they had been marked by the examiners, and +as fast as they found that they were marked, they let them pass. + +Following this company, Mr. George and Rollo came soon to another small +room, where a man was sitting behind a desk, examining the passports of +the passengers and stamping them. Mr. George waited a moment until it +came his turn, and then handed his passport too. The officer looked at +it, and then stamped an impression from a sort of seal on one corner of +it. He also wrote Mr. George's and Rollo's name in a big book, copying +them for this purpose from the passport. + +He then handed the passport back again, and Mr. George and Rollo went +out, passing by a soldier who guarded the door. They found themselves +now on the railway platform. + +"Now," said Rollo, "I suppose that we may go and take our seats again." + +"Yes," said Mr. George. "We are fairly entered within the dominions of +his majesty the king of Holland." + +"And no duty to pay on my music box," said Rollo. + +Rollo took a seat by a window where he could look out as the train went +on, and see, as he said, how Holland looked. The country was one immense +and boundless plain, and there were no fences or other close enclosures +of any kind. And yet the face of it was so endlessly varied with rows of +trees, groves, farm houses, gardens, wind mills, roads, and other +elements of rural scenery, that Rollo found it extremely beautiful. The +fields were very green where grass was growing, and the foliage of the +trees, and of the little ornamental hedges that were seen here and there +adorning the grounds of the farm houses, was very rich and full. As +Rollo looked out at the window, a continued succession of the most +bright and beautiful pictures passed rapidly before his eyes, like those +of a gayly painted panorama, and they all called forth from him +continually repeated exclamations of delight. Mr. George sat at his +window enjoying the scene perhaps quite as much as Rollo did, though he +was much less ardent in expressing his admiration. + +"See these roads, uncle George," said Rollo; "they run along on the tops +of the embankment like railroads. Are those dikes?" + +"No," said Mr. George. "The dikes are built along the margin of the sea, +and along the banks of rivers and canals, to take the water out. These +are embankments for the roads, to raise them up and keep them dry." + +There were rows of trees on the sides of these raised roads, which +formed beautiful avenues to shelter the carriage way from the sun. These +avenues could sometimes be seen stretching for miles across the country. + +"Now, pretty soon," said Rollo, "we shall come to the water, and then we +shall take a steamboat." + +"Then we do not go all the way by the train," said Mr. George. + +"No," said Rollo. "The railroad stops at a place called Moerdyk, and +there we take a steamer and go along some of the rivers. + +"But I can't find out by the map exactly how we are to go," he +continued, "because there are so many rivers." + +Rollo had found, by the map, that the country all about Rotterdam was +intersected by a complete network of creeks and rivers. This system was +connected on the land side with the waters of the Rhine, by the immense +multitude of branches into which that river divides itself towards its +mouth, and on the other side by innumerable creeks and inlets coming in +from the sea. This network of channels is so extensive, and the water in +the various branches of it is so deep, that ships and steamers can go at +will all about the country. It would be as difficult to make a railroad +over such a tract of mingled land and water as this, as it is easy to +navigate a steamer through it; and, accordingly, the owners of the line +had made arrangements for stopping the trains at Moerdyk, and then +transferring the passengers to a steamer. + +"I have great curiosity," said Rollo, "to see whether, when we come to +the water, we shall go _up_ to it, instead of _down_ to it." + +"Do you think that we shall go up to it?" asked Mr. George. + +"I don't know," replied Rollo. "We do in some parts of Holland. In some +places, according to what the guide book says, the land is twenty or +thirty feet below the level of the water, and so when you come to the +shore you go _up an embankment_, and there you find the water on the +other side, nearly at the top of it." + +When at length the train stopped at Moerdyk, the conductor called out +from the platform that all the passengers would descend from the +carriages to embark on board the steamer. Rollo was too much interested +in making the change, and in hurrying Mr. George along so as to get a +good seat in the steamer, to make any observation on the comparative +level of the land and water. There was quite a little crowd of +passengers to go on board; and as they walked along the pier towards the +place where the steamer was lying, all loaded with as many bags, cloaks, +umbrellas, or parcels of some sort, as they could carry, Rollo and Mr. +George pressed on before them, Rollo leading the way. The steamer was a +long and narrow boat, painted black, in the English fashion. There was +no awning over the deck, and most of the passengers went below. + +"I don't see what they are all going below for," said Rollo. "I should +think that they would wish to stay on deck and see the scenery." + +So Rollo chose a seat by the side of a small porch which was built upon +the deck over the entrance to the cabin, and sat down immediately upon +it, making room for Mr. George by his side. There was a little table +before him, and he laid down his guide book and his great coat upon it. + +"Now," said he, "this is good. We have got an excellent seat, and we +will have a first rate time looking at Holland as we go along." + +Just then a young man, dressed in a suit of gray, and with a spy glass +hanging at his side, suspended by a strap from his shoulder, and with a +young and pretty, but rather disdainful looking lady on his arm, came +by. + +"Now, Emily," said he, "which would you prefer, to sit here upon the +deck or go below?" + +"O George," said she, "let us go below. There's nothing to be seen on +the deck. The country is every where flat and uninteresting." + +"We might see the shores as we go along," suggested her husband. + +"O, there's nothing to be seen along the shores," said she; "nothing but +bulrushes and willows. We had better go below." + +So Emily led George below. + +"Rollo," said Mr. George, "if you would like to take a bet, I will bet +you the prettiest Dutch toy that you can find in Amsterdam, that that is +another Mrs. Parkman." + +"I think it very likely she is," said Rollo. "But, uncle George, what do +you think they have got down below? I've a great mind to go down and +see." + +"Very well," said Mr. George. + +"And will you keep my place while I am gone?" asked Rollo. + +"Yes," said Mr. George, "or you can put your cap in it to keep it." + +So Rollo put his cap in his seat, and went down below. In a few minutes +he returned, saying that there was a pretty little cabin down there, +with small tables set out along the sides of it, and different parties +of people getting ready for breakfast. + +"It is rather late for breakfast," said Mr. George. "It is after twelve +o'clock." + +"Then perhaps they call it luncheon," said Rollo. "But I'd rather stay +on deck. We might have something to eat here. Don't you think we could +have it on this table?" + +"Yes," replied Mr. George, "that is what the table is put here for." + +"Well!" said Rollo, his eye brightening up at the idea. + +"We can have it here, or we can wait and have it at the hotel in +Rotterdam," said Mr. George. "You may decide. I'll do just as you say." + +Rollo finally concluded to wait till they arrived at Rotterdam, and then +to have a good dinner all by themselves at some table by a window in the +hotel, and in the mean time to devote himself, while on board the +steamer, to observing the shores of the river, or arm of the sea, +whichever it might be, on which they were sailing. + +The steamer had before this time set sail from the pier, and after +backing out of a little sort of creek or branch where it had been +moored, it entered a broad channel of deep water, and began rapidly to +move along. The day was pleasant, and though the air was cool, Rollo and +Mr. George were so well sheltered by the little porch by the side of +which they were sitting, that they were very comfortable in all +respects. + +Before long the channel of water in which the steamer was sailing became +more narrow, and the steamer passed nearer a bank, which Rollo soon +perceived was formed by a dike. + +"See, see! uncle George," said he. "There are the roofs of the houses +over on the other side of the dike. We can just see the tops of them. +The ground that the houses stand upon must be a great deal below the +water." + +"Yes," said Mr. George, "and see, there are the tops of the tall trees." + +The dike was very regular in its form, and it was ornamented with two +rows of trees along the top of it. There were seats here and there under +the trees, and some of these seats had people sitting upon them, looking +at the passing boats and steamers. The water was full of vessels of all +kinds, coming and going, or lying at anchor. These vessels were all of +very peculiar forms, being built in the Dutch style, and not painted, +but only varnished, so as to show beautifully the natural color of the +wood of which they were made. They had what Rollo called _fins_ on each +side, which were made to be taken up or let down into the water, first +on one side and then on the other, as the vessel was on different tacks +in beating against the wind. + +Opposite to every place where there was a house over beyond the dike, +there was a line of steps coming down the face of the dike on the hither +side, towards the water, with a little pier, and a boat fastened to it, +below. These little flights of steps, with the piers and the boats, and +the seats under the trees on the top of the dike, and the roofs of the +houses, and the tops of the trees beyond, all looked extremely pretty, +and presented a succession of very peculiar and very charming scenes to +Mr. George and Rollo as the steamer glided rapidly along the shore. + +In some places the dike seemed to widen, so as to make room for houses +upon the top of it. There were snug little taverns, where the captains +and crews of the vessels that were sailing by could stop and refresh +themselves, when wind or tide bound in their vessels, and now and then a +shop or store of some kind, or a row of pretty, though very +queer-looking, cottages. At one place there was a ferry landing. The +ferry house, together with the various buildings appertaining to it, was +on the top of the dike, and a large pier, with a snug and pretty basin +by the side of it, below. There was a flight of stairs leading up from +the pier to the ferry house, and also a winding road for carriages. At +the time that the steamer went by this place, the ferry boat was just +coming in with a carriage on board of it. + +There were a great many wind mills here and there along the dike. Some +were for pumping up water, some for sawing logs, and some for grinding +grain. These wind mills were very large and exceedingly picturesque in +their forms, and in the manner in which they were grouped with the other +buildings connected with them. Rollo wished very much that he could stop +and go on shore and visit some of these wind mills, so as to see how +they looked inside. + +At length the vessels and ships seemed to increase in numbers, and Mr. +George said that he thought that they must be approaching a town. Rollo +looked upon the map and found that there was a large town named Dort, +laid down on the shores of the river or branch on which they were +sailing. + +"It is on the other side," said he. "Let us go and see." + +So they both rose from their seats and went round to the other side of +the boat, and there, there suddenly burst upon their view such a maze of +masts, spires, roofs, and wind mills, all mingled together in +promiscuous confusion, as was wonderful to behold. In the centre of the +whole rose one enormous square tower, which seemed to belong to a +cathedral. + +This was Dort, or Dordrecht, as it is often called. + +As the steamer glided rapidly along the shores, and Mr. George and Rollo +attempted to look into the town, they saw not streets, but canals. +Indeed, the whole place seemed just level with the surface of the water, +and far in the interior of it the masts of ships and the roofs of the +houses were mingled together in nearly equal proportion. + +The steamer threaded its way among the fleets of boats and shipping +that lay off the town, and at length came to a stop at a pier. The +passengers destined for this place began to disembark. Mr. George and +Rollo stood together on the deck, looking at the buildings which lined +the quay, and wondering at the quaint and queer forms which every thing +that they saw assumed. + +"I should really like to go ashore here," said Mr. George, "and see what +sort of a place it is." + +"Let us do it, uncle George!" said Rollo, eagerly. "Let us do it!" + +"Only we have paid to Rotterdam," said Mr. George. + +"Never mind," said Rollo. "It will not make much difference." + +But before Mr. George could make up his mind to go on shore, the +exchange of passengers was effected, and the plank was pulled in, the +ropes were cast off, and the steamer once more began to move swiftly +along over the water. + +"It is too late," said Rollo. + +"Yes," said Mr. George, "and on the whole it is better for us to go on." + +In about an hour more the steamer began to draw near to Rotterdam. The +approach to the town was indicated by the multitude of boats and vessels +that were passing to and fro, and by the numbers of steamers and wind +mills that lined respectively the margins of the water and of the land. +The wind mills were prodigious in size. They towered high into the air +like so many lighthouses; the tops of the sails, as Mr. George +estimated, reached, as the vanes revolved, up to not less than one +hundred and fifty or two hundred feet into the air. It was necessary to +build them high, in order that the sails might not be becalmed by the +houses. + +[Illustration: DORT.] + +At length the steamer stopped at a pier. Two policemen stood at the +plank, as the passengers landed, and demanded their passports. Mr. +George gave up his passport, as he was directed, and then he and Rollo +got into a carriage and were driven to the hotel. + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +WALKS ABOUT ROTTERDAM. + + +The hotel where Mr. George and Rollo were set down was a very +magnificent edifice standing on the quay opposite to a line of steamers. +On entering it, both our travellers were struck with the spaciousness of +the hall and of the staircase, and with the sumptuous appearance in +general of the whole interior. They called for a chamber. The +attendants, as they soon found, all understood English, so that there +was no occasion at present to resort to the language of signs, as Mr. +George had supposed might be necessary. In answer to Mr. George's +request to be shown to a room, the servant showed him and Rollo a very +large and lofty apartment, with immense windows in front looking down +upon the pier. On the back side of the room were two single beds. + +"This will do very well for us," said Mr. George. + +"Will you dine at the table d'hote?"[3] asked the waiter. + +[Footnote 3: Pronounced _tahble dote_.] + +The table d'hote is the public table. + +"At what time is the table d'hote?" asked Mr. George. + +"At half past four," said the waiter. + +"No," said Mr. George, "we shall want to be out at that time. We will +take something now as soon as we can have it. Can you give us a +beefsteak?" + +"Yes, sir," said the waiter. + +"Very well. Give us a beefsteak and some coffee, and some bread and +butter." + +"Yes, sir," said the waiter. "Will you have two beefsteaks, or one +beefsteak?" + +"Two," said Rollo, in an under tone to Mr. George. + +"Yes," said Mr. George, "and coffee for two, also." + +So the waiter left the travellers in their room, and went down stairs. +In about ten minutes Mr. George and Rollo went down too. At the foot of +the grand staircase they turned into the dining room, where they saw +several tables set, and at one of them, near a window, were the +preparations for their meal. + +The window looked out upon the quay, and Rollo could see the men at work +getting out hogsheads and bales of goods from a steamer that was moored +there. Besides looking across to the quay, Rollo could also look up and +down the street without putting his head out of the window. The way in +which he was enabled to do this, was by means of looking glasses placed +outside. These looking glasses were attached to an iron frame, and they +were placed in an inclined position, so as to reflect the whole length +of the street in through the window. Thus a person sitting at his ease +within the room, could look up and down the street, as well as across +it, at his pleasure. + +Rollo afterwards observed such looking glasses attached to the windows +of almost all the houses in town. + +The dinner was soon brought in, and Mr. George and Rollo ate it with +excellent appetites. Just as they had finished their meal, a +neatly-dressed young man came to the table and asked them if they wished +for some one to show them about the town. + +"Because," said he, "I am a _valet de place_, and I can take you at once +to all the places of interest, and save you a great deal of time." + +"How much do you ask to do it?" asked Mr. George. + +"Five francs a day," said the man. + +"That's right," said Mr. George. "That's the usual price. But we shall +not want you, at least for this afternoon. We may want you to-morrow. We +shall stay in town a day or two." + +The young man said that he should be very happy to serve them if they +should require his services, and then bowed and went away. + +After having finished their meal, Mr. George and Rollo set out to take a +ramble about the town by themselves. + +"We will go in search of adventures," said Rollo. + +"Yes," said Mr. George, "and if we lose our way, we shall be likely to +_have_ some adventures, for we cannot speak Dutch to inquire for it." + +"Never mind," said Rollo, "I'm not afraid. We will be careful which way +we go." + +So they went out and took quite a long ramble through the town. The +first aspect of the streets struck them with astonishment. The space was +now more than half filled with docks and basins, and with canals in +which ships and boats of every kind were moving to and fro. In fact +almost every street consisted one half of canal, and one half of road +way, so that in going through it you could have your choice of going in +a boat or in a carriage. The water part of the streets was crowded +densely with vessels, some of them of the largest size, for the water +was so deep in the canals that the largest ships could go all about the +town. + +It was curious to observe the process of loading and unloading these +vessels, opposite to the houses where the merchants who owned them +lived. These houses were very large and handsome. The upper stories were +used for the rooms of the merchant and his family, and the lower ones +were for the storage of the goods. Thus a merchant could sit at his +parlor window with his family about him, could look down upon his ship +in the middle of the street before his house, and see the workmen +unlading it and stowing the goods safely on his own premises, in the +rooms below. + +In some of the streets the canal was in the centre, and there was a road +way along by the houses on each side. In others there was a road way +only on one side, and the walls of the houses and stores rose up +directly from the water's edge on the other. It was curious, in this +case, to see the men in the upper stories of these stores, hoisting +goods up from the vessels below by means of cranes and tackles +projecting from the windows. + +There was one arrangement in the streets which Rollo at first +condemned, as decidedly objectionable in his mind, and that was, that +the sidewalks were smooth and level with the pavement of the street, +differing only from the street by being paved with bricks, while the +road way was paved with stone. + +"I think that that is a very foolish plan," said Rollo. + +"I should not have expected so crude a remark as that from so old and +experienced a traveller as you," said Mr. George. + +"Why, uncle George," said Rollo. "It is plainly a great deal better to +have the sidewalk raised a little, for that keeps the wheels of the +carts and carriages from coming upon them. Besides, there ought to be a +gutter." + +"People that have never been away from home before," said Mr. George, +"are very apt, when they first land in any strange country, and observe +any strange or unusual way of doing things, or of making things, to +condemn it at once, and say how much better the thing is in their +country. But I thought that you had travelled enough to know better than +that." + +"How so?" asked Rollo. + +"Why, you see that after people have travelled more, they get their +ideas somewhat enlarged, and they learn that one way of doing things may +be best in one country, and another in another, on account of some +difference in the circumstances or the wants of the two countries. So, +when they see any thing done in a new or unusual manner, they don't +condemn it, or laugh at it, until they have had time to find out whether +there may not be some good reason for it." + +"But I don't see," said Rollo, "what possible good reason there can be +for having the sidewalks made so that every cart that comes along can +run over you." + +"And because you don't in a moment see every reason, does that make it +certain that there cannot be any?" said Mr. George. + +"Why, no," replied Rollo. + +"Then if you had travelled to much purpose," said Mr. George, "you would +suspend your judgment until you had inquired." + +It was not long before Rollo saw what the reason was for making the +sidewalks in this way. Indeed, with a little reflection, he would +probably have thought of it himself. + +The object was to make it easy to wheel and convey the goods from the +ships across to the warehouses. For, as the ships and boats go into +almost all the streets in the town, goods have to be wheeled across +every where, from the margin of the quay to the warehouses of the +merchants, and a range of curbstones and gutter would make an obstacle +that would be very much in the way. + +Besides, contrary to Rollo's hastily formed opinion, there ought _not_ +to be any gutters in such a town as this, as far as the streets are +perfectly level, from end to end; if gutters were made the water would +not run in them. The only way to have the rain water carried off, is to +form a gentle slope from the houses straight across the quay to the +margin of the canal, and this requires that the connection between the +sidewalk and the road way should be continuous and even. So that on +every account the plan adopted in Rotterdam is the best for that town. + +I advise all the readers of this book, whether old or young, if they +have not yet had an opportunity to learn wisdom by actual experience in +travelling, to remember the lesson that Rollo learned on this occasion; +and whenever, in their future travels, they find any thing that appears +unusual or strange, not to condemn it too soon, simply because it is +different from what they have been accustomed to at home, but to wait +till they have learned whether there may not be some good cause for the +difference. + +Rollo wished to stop continually, as he and his uncle walked along, to +watch the operations of loading and unloading that were going on +between the ships and the warehouses. At one place was a boat loaded +with sails, which had apparently come from a sail maker's. The sails +were rolled up in long rolls, and some people in a loft of a warehouse +near were hoisting them up with tackles, and pulling them in at the +windows. + +At another place two porters were engaged wheeling something in +wheelbarrows across from a slip to the warehouse, stopping by the way at +a little platform to have every wheelbarrow load weighed. One of the +porters wheeled the loads from the ship to the platform, and the other, +after they were weighed, wheeled them to the warehouse. At the platform +sat a man with a little desk before him and a big book upon it, in which +he entered the weight of each load as it came. As soon as the load was +weighed the warehouse porter would take it from the platform, wheel it +across the street to the warehouse, empty it there, and then bring back +the empty wheelbarrow and set it down by the side of the platform. In +the mean time the ship porter would have wheeled another load up to the +platform from the ship, and by the time that the warehouse porter had +come back, it would be weighed and all ready for him. The ship porter, +when he brought the loaded wheelbarrow, would take back to the ship the +empty one. The whole operation went on with so much regularity and +system, and it worked so well in keeping all the men employed all the +time, without either having to wait at all for the other, that it was a +pleasure to witness it. + +At another place Mr. George himself, as well as Rollo, was much +interested in seeing the process of tobacco inspection. There were a +number of hogsheads of tobacco, with a party of porters, coopers, +inspectors, and clerks examining them. It was curious to see how rapidly +they would go through the process. The coopers would set a hogshead up +upon its end, knock out the head, loosen all the staves at one end, +whisk it over upon the platform of the scales, and then lift the +hogshead itself entirely off, and set it down on one side, leaving the +tobacco alone, in a great round pile, on the platform. Then when it was +weighed they would tumble it over upon its side, and separate it into +its layers, and the inspectors would take out specimens from all the +different portions of it. Then they would pile up the layers again, and +put the hogshead on over them, as you would put an extinguisher on a +candle; and, finally, after turning it over once more, they would put it +on the head, and bind it all up again tight and secure, with hoop poles +which they nailed in and around it. The porters would then roll the +hogshead off, in order to put it on a cart and take it away. The whole +operation was performed with a degree of system, regularity, and +promptness, that was quite surprising. The whole work of opening the +hogshead, examining it thoroughly, weighing it, selecting specimens, and +putting it up again, was accomplished in less time than it has taken me +here to describe it. + +There were a great many other operations of this sort that arrested the +attention of Mr. George and Rollo, as they walked along the streets. +Much of the merchandise which they saw thus landing from the ships, or +going on board of them, was of great value, and the ships in which it +came were of immense size, such as are engaged in the East India trade. +Mr. George said that they were the kind that he had often read about in +history, under the name of Dutch East Indiamen. + +Rollo was very much amused at the signs over the doors of the shops, in +those streets where there were shops, and in the efforts that he made to +interpret them. There was one which read SCHEEP'S VICTUALIJ, which Mr. +George said must mean victualling for ships. He was helped, however, +somewhat in making this translation by observing what was exhibited in +the windows of the shop, and at the door. There was another in which +Rollo did not require any help to enable him to translate it. It was +TABAK, KOFFY, UND THEE. Another at first perplexed him. It was this: +HUIS UND SCHEEP'S SMEDERY. But by seeing that the place was a sort of +blacksmith's shop, Rollo concluded that it must mean house and ship +smithery, that is, that it was a place for blacksmith's work for houses +and ships. + +Over one of the doors was OOSTERHOUTS UND BREDA'S BIER HUIS. Mr. George +said that Breda was a place not far from Rotterdam, and that the last +part of the sign must mean house for selling Breda beer. Rollo then +concluded that the first word must mean something connected with +oysters. There was another, KOFFER EN ZADEL MAKERIJ. At first Rollo +could not make any thing of this; but on looking at the window he saw a +painting of a horse's head, with a handsome bridle upon it, and a saddle +on one side. So he concluded it must mean a trunk and saddle makery. He +was the more convinced of the correctness of this from the fact that the +word for trunk or box, in French, is _coffre_. + +Rollo amused himself a long time in interpreting in this way the signs +that he saw in the streets, and he succeeded so well in it that he told +Mr. George that he believed he could learn the Dutch language very +easily, if he were going to stay for any considerable time in Holland. + +Another thing that amused Rollo very much, was to see the wooden shoes +that were worn by the common people in the streets. These shoes appeared +to Rollo to be very large and clumsy; but even the little children wore +them, and the noise that they made, clattering about the pavements with +them, was very amusing. + +In a great many places where the streets intersected each other, there +were bridges leading across the canals. These bridges were of a very +curious construction. They were all draw bridges, and as boats and +vessels were continually passing and repassing along the canals, it +became frequently necessary to raise them, in order to let the vessels +go through. The machinery for raising these bridges and letting them +down again, was very curious; and Rollo and Mr. George were both glad, +when, in coming to the bridge, they found it was up, as it gave them an +opportunity to watch the manoeuvre of passing the vessel through. + +Every boat and vessel that went through had a toll to pay, and the +manner of collecting this toll was not the least singular part of the +whole procedure. While the bridge was up, and when the boat had passed +nearly through, the helmsman, or helmswoman, as the case might be,--for +one half the boats and vessels seemed to be steered by women,--would +get the money ready; and then the tollman, who stood on the abutment of +the bridge, would swing out to the boat one of the wooden shoes above +described, which was suspended by a long line from the end of a pole, +like a fishing pole. The tollman would swing out this shoe over the boat +that was passing through, as a boy would swing his hook and sinker out +over the water if he were going to catch fish. The helmsman in the boat +would take hold of it when it came within his reach, and put the money +into the toe of it. The tollman would then draw it in, and, taking out +the money, would carry it to his toll house, which was a small building, +not much bigger than a sentry box that stood on the pier close by. + +In one case Rollo came to a bridge, which, instead of being made to be +raised entirely, had only a very narrow part in the centre, just wide +enough for the masts and rigging of the ship to go through, that could +be moved. When this part was lifted up to let a vessel pass, it made +only a very narrow opening, such as a boy might jump across very easily. + +In some places where the passing and repassing of ships was very great, +there was a ferry instead of a bridge. In these cases there was a +flat-bottomed boat to pass to and from one side to the other, with a +pretty little landing of stone steps at each end. Rollo was much +entertained by these ferries. He said it was crossing a street by water. +And it was exactly that, and no more. The place where he first crossed +one of these ferries was precisely like a broad street of water, with +ships and boats going to and fro upon it, instead of carriages, and a +very wide brick sidewalk on each side. The ferry was at the crossing, at +the place where another street intersected it. + +As the houses on each side of these streets were very large and +handsome, and as there were rows of beautiful trees on the margin of the +water, and as every thing about the water, and the ships, and the quays, +and the sidewalks, was kept very neat and clean, the whole view, as it +presented itself to Rollo and Mr. George while they were crossing in the +boat, was exceedingly attractive and exciting. + +Mr. George and Rollo remained in Rotterdam several days before they were +satisfied with the curious and wonderful spectacles which it presented +to view. In one of their walks they made the entire circuit of the town, +and Mr. George agreed with Rollo in the opinion that this was one of the +most interesting walks they had ever taken. + +[Illustration: THE FERRY BOAT.] + +The way led along a smooth and beautiful road, which was neatly paved, +and kept very nice and clean. On the right hand side there extended +along the whole length of it a wide canal, with boats all the time going +to and fro. This canal looked brimming full. The water, in fact, came up +within a few inches of the level of the road. The line of the road was +formed by a smooth and straight margin of stone,--like the margin of a +fountain,--with little platforms extending out here and there, where +neatly-dressed girls and women were washing. + +On the other side of the road, down ten feet or more below the level of +it, was a range of houses, with yards, gardens, and fields about them. +The way to these houses was by paths leading down from the dike on which +the road was built, and across little bridges built over a small canal +which extended between them and the dike. This small canal was for the +draining of the land on which the houses stood. The water in this canal +had a gentle flow towards the end of the street, where there was a wind +mill to pump it up into the great canal on the other side of the street. + +As Rollo and Mr. George walked along this road, it was very curious to +them to see the water on one side so much higher than the land on the +other. At the intervals between the houses they obtained glimpses of the +interior of the country, which consisted of level fields lying far below +where they were standing, and intersected in every direction by small +canals, which served the purpose at the same time of fences, roads, and +drains. There seemed to be no other divisions than these between the +lands of the different proprietors, and no other roads for bringing home +the hay or grain, or other produce which might be raised in the fields. + +In pursuing their walk around the town, our travellers were continually +coming to objects so curious in their construction and use, as to arrest +their attention and cause them to stop and examine them. At one place +they saw a little ferry boat, which looked precisely like a little +floating room. It was square, and had a roof over it like a house, with +seats for the passengers below. This boat plied to and fro across the +canal, by means of a rope fastened to each shore, and running over +pulleys in the boat. + +"We might take this ferry boat," said Mr. George, "and go across the +canal into the town again. See, it lands opposite to one of the +streets." + +"Yes," said Rollo, "but I would rather keep on, and go all around the +town outside." + +"We might go over in the ferry boat just for the fun of it," said Mr. +George, "and then come back again." + +"Well," said Rollo. "How much do you suppose the toll is?" + +"I don't know," said Mr. George. "It can't be much, it is such a small +boat, and goes such a little way; and then, besides, I know it must be +cheap, or else there could not so many of these girls and women go back +and forth." + +For while they had been looking at the boat, as they gradually +approached the spot, they had seen it pass to and fro with many +passengers, who, though they were very neatly dressed, were evidently by +no means wealthy or fashionable people. + +So Mr. George and Rollo went to the margin of the road where the ferry +boat had its little landing place, and when it came up they stepped on +board. The ferryman could only talk Dutch, and so Mr. George could not +ask him what was to pay. The only thing to be done was to give him a +piece of silver, and let him give back such change as he pleased. Mr. +George gave him a piece of money about as big as half a franc, and he +got back so much change in return that he said he felt richer than he +did before. + +At another place they came to a bridge that led across the canal. This +bridge turned on a pivot placed out near the middle of the canal, so +that it could be moved out of the way when there was a boat to go by. A +man was turning it when Mr. George and Rollo came along. They stopped to +witness the operation. They were quite amused, not merely with the +manoeuvring of the bridge, but with the form and appearance of the +boat that was going through. It seemed to be half boat and half house. +There was a room built in it, which rose somewhat above the deck, and +showed several little windows with pretty curtains to them. There was a +girl sitting at one of these windows, knitting, and two or three +children were playing about the deck at the time that the boat was going +through the bridge. + +Farther on the party came to an immense wind mill, which was employed in +pumping up water. This wind mill, like most of the others, was built of +brick. It rose to a vast height into the air, and there its immense +sails were slowly revolving. The wind mill was forty or fifty feet in +diameter at the base, and midway between the base and the summit was a +platform built out, that extended all around it. The sails of the mill, +as they revolved, only extended down to this platform, and the platform +itself was above the roofs of the four-story houses that stood near. + +At the foot of this wind mill Mr. George and Rollo could see the water +running in under it, through a sluice way which led from a low canal, +and on the other side they could see it pouring out in a great torrent, +into a higher one. + + * * * * * + +Besides making this circuit around the town, Mr. George and Rollo one +evening took a walk in the environs, on a road which led along on the +top of a dike. The dike was very broad, and the descent from it to the +low land on each side was very gradual. On the slopes on each side, and +along the margin on the top, were rows of immense trees, that looked as +if they had been growing for centuries. The branches of these trees met +overhead, so as to exclude the sun entirely. They made the road a +deeply-shaded avenue, and gave to the whole scene a very sombre and +solemn expression. On each side of the road, down upon the low land +which formed the general level of the country, were a succession of +country houses, the summer residences of the rich merchants of +Rotterdam. These houses were beautifully built; and they were surrounded +with grounds ornamented in the highest degree. There were winding +walks, and serpentine canals, and beds of flowers, and pretty bridges, +and summer houses, and groves of trees, and every thing else that can +add to the beauty of a summer retreat. + +All these scenes Mr. George and Rollo looked down upon as they sauntered +slowly along the smooth sidewalk of the dike, under the majestic trees +which shaded it. The place where they were walking on the dike was on a +level with the second story windows of the houses. + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +DOING THE HAGUE. + + +"And now what is the next place that we shall come to?" said Rollo to +Mr. George one morning after they had been some days in Rotterdam. + +"The Hague," replied Mr. George. + +"Ah, yes," said Rollo, "that is the capital. We shall stop there a good +while I suppose, because it is the capital." + +"No," said Mr. George, "I shall go through it just as quick as I can for +that very reason. I have a great mind not to stop there at all." + +"Why, uncle George!" exclaimed Rollo, surprised, "what do you mean by +that?" + +"Why, the Hague," rejoined Mr. George, "is the place where the king +lives, and the princes, and the foreign ambassadors, and all the +fashionable people; and there will be nothing to see there, I expect, +but palaces, and picture galleries, and handsome streets, and such +things, all of which we can see more of and better in Paris or London." + +"Still we want to see what sort of a place the Hague is," said Rollo. + +"Yes," said Mr. George, "and I expect to do that in a very short time, +and then I shall go on to Haarlem, where they have had such a time with +their pumping." + +Mr. George and Rollo packed up their valise, paid their bill at the +hotel, and set off for the station. + +"Let's go to the station by water," said Rollo. + +"Well," said Mr. George, "if you will engage a boat." + +"I know a place not far from here where there is a boat station," said +Rollo. + +So Rollo led the way until they came to a bridge, and there, by the side +of the bridge, were some stairs leading down to the water. There were +several boats lying at the foot of the stairs, and boatmen near, who all +called out in Dutch, "Do you want a boat?" At least that was what Rollo +supposed they said, though, of course, he could not understand their +language. Rollo walked down the steps, and got into one of the boats, +and Mr. George followed him. + +"I can't speak Dutch," said Rollo to the boatman, "but that is the way +we want to go." So saying, Rollo pointed in the direction which led +towards the station. The man did not understand a word that Rollo had +said; but still, by hearing it, he learned the fact that Rollo did not +speak the language of the country, and by his signs he knew that he must +go the way that he pointed. So he began to row the boat along. + +"We cannot go quite to the station by the boat," said Rollo, "but we can +go pretty near it, and we can walk the rest of the way." + +"How will you find out the way," asked Mr. George, "through all these +canals?" + +"I can tell by the map," said Rollo. + +So Rollo sat down on a seat at the stern of the boat, and taking out his +map, which was printed on a pocket handkerchief, he spread it on his +knee, and began to study out the canals. + +"There," said he, "we are going along this canal, now; and there, a +little way ahead from here, is a bridge that we shall go under. Then we +shall make a turn," continued Rollo, still studying his map. "We shall +have to go a very round-about way; but that is no matter." + +So they went on, Rollo at each turn pointing to the boatman which way he +was to go. Sometimes the boat was stopped for a time by a jam in the +boats and vessels before it, as a hack might be stopped in Broadway in +New York. Sometimes it went under bridges, and sometimes through dark +archways, where Rollo could hear carriages rumbling over his head in +the streets above. + +At length the boat reached the point which Rollo thought was nearest to +the station; and the man, at a signal which Rollo gave him, stopped at +some steps. Rollo paid the fare by holding out a handful of money in his +hand, and letting the man take what was right, watching him, however, to +see that he did not take too much. + +Then Mr. George and Rollo both went ashore, and walked the rest of the +way to the station. + +In the European railroad stations there are different waiting rooms for +the different classes of travellers. Mr. George sometimes took second +class carriages, and sometimes first. For short distances he generally +went first class, and as it was only a few miles to the Hague from +Rotterdam, he now went into the first class waiting room. There was a +counter for refreshment in one corner of the room, and some sofas along +the sides. Mr. George sat down upon one of the sofas, putting his valise +on the floor at the end of it. Rollo said that he would go out and take +a little walk around the station, for it was yet half an hour before the +train was to go. + +In a few minutes after Rollo had gone, there came to the door, among +other carriages, one from which Mr. George, to his great surprise, saw +Mr. and Mrs. Parkman get out. Mr. George's first thought was to go out +by another door, and make his escape. But he checked this impulse, +saying to himself, + +"It would be very ungenerous in me to abandon my old friend in his +misfortune; so I will stay." + +Mr. Parkman seemed very much delighted, as well as surprised, to see Mr. +George again; and Mrs. Parkman gave him quite a cordial greeting, +although she half suspected that Mr. George did not like her very well. + +Mr. George asked her how she liked Holland, so far as she had seen it. + +"Not much," said she. "The towns are not pretty. The streets are all +full of canals, and there is nothing to be seen but boats and ships. And +what ugly wooden shoes they wear. Did you ever see any thing so ugly in +all your life?" + +"They look pretty big and clumsy," said Mr. George, "I must admit; but +it amuses me to see them." + +"At the Hague I expect to find something worth seeing," continued Mrs. +Parkman. "That's where the king and all the great people live, and all +the foreign ambassadors. If William had only got letters of introduction +to some of them! He might have got them just as well as not. Our +minister at London would have given him some if he had asked for them. +But he said he did not like to ask for them." + +"Strange!" said Mr. George. + +"Yes," rejoined Mrs. Parkman, "I think it is not only strange, but +foolish. I want to go to some of the parties at the Hague, but we can't +stop. William says we can only give one day to the Hague." + +"O, you can do it up quite well in one day," said Mr. George. + +"If you would only go with us and show us how to do it," said Mrs. +Parkman. + +"Yes," said Mr. Parkman. "Do, George. Go with us. Join us for one day. +I'll put the whole party entirely under your command, and you shall have +every thing your own way." + +Mr. George did not know what to reply to this proposition. At last he +said that he would go and find Rollo, and consult him on the subject, +and if Rollo approved of it they would consent to the arrangement. + +Mrs. Parkman laughed at hearing this. "Why," said she, "is it possible +that you are under that boy's direction?" + +"Not exactly that," said Mr. George. "But then he is my travelling +companion, and it is not right for one person, in such a case, to make +any great change in the plan without at least first hearing what the +other has to say about it." + +"That's very true," replied Mrs. Parkman. "Do you hear that, William? +You must remember that when you are going to change the plans without +asking my consent." + +Mrs. Parkman said this in a good-natured way, as if she meant it in +joke. It was one of those cases where people say what they wish to have +considered as meant in a joke, but to be taken in earnest. + +Mr. George went out to look for Rollo. He found him lying on the grass +by the side of a small canal which flowed through the grounds, and +reaching down to the water to gather some curious little plants that +were growing upon it. Mr. George informed him that Mr. and Mrs. Parkman +were at the station, and that they had proposed that he himself and +Rollo should join their party in seeing the Hague. + +"And I suppose you don't want to do it," said Rollo. + +"Why, yes," said Mr. George, "I've taken a notion to accept the proposal +if you like it. We'll then do the Hague in style, and I shall get back +into Mrs. Parkman's good graces. Then we will bid them good by, and +after that you and I will travel on in our own way." + +"Well," said Rollo, "_I_ agree to it." + +Mr. George accordingly went back into the station, and told Mr. and Mrs. +Parkman that he and Rollo would accept their invitation, and join with +them in seeing what there was in the Hague. + +"And then, after that," said Mr. George, "we shall come back to Delft, +while you go on to Amsterdam." + +"I wish you would go on with us," said Mr. Parkman. + +"We can't do that very well," said Mr. George. "We want to try a Dutch +canal once, and a good place to try it is in going from the Hague to +Delft. It is only about four or five miles. We are going there by the +canal boat, and then coming back on foot." + +Mr. George had taken care in planning the course which he and Rollo were +to pursue after leaving the Hague, to contrive an expedition which he +was very sure Mrs. Parkman would not wish to join in. + +"O, Mr. George!" she exclaimed, "what pleasure can there be in going on +a canal?" + +"Why, the canal boats are so funny!" said Rollo. "And then we see such +curious little places all along the banks of them, and we meet so many +boats, carrying all sorts of things." + +"I don't think it would be very agreeable for a lady," said Mr. George; +"but Rollo and I thought we should like to try it." + +Just at this moment the door leading to the platform opened, and a man +dressed in a sort of uniform, denoting that he was an officer of the +railroad, called out in Dutch that the train was coming. The ladies and +gentlemen that were assembled in the waiting room immediately took up +their bags and bundles, and went out upon the platform. As they went +out, Mr. George, in passing the man in uniform, slipped a piece of money +into his hand, and said to him in an under tone, first in French and +then in English,-- + +"A good seat by a window for this lady." + +The officer received the money, made a bow of assent, and immediately +seemed to take the whole party under his charge. When the train arrived, +and had stopped before the place, there was a great crowd among the new +passengers to get in and procure seats. The officer beckoned to Mr. +George to follow him, but Mrs. Parkman seemed disposed to go another +way. She was looking eagerly about here and there among the carriages, +as if the responsibility of finding seats for the party devolved upon +her. + +"What shall we do?" said she. "The cars are all full." + +"Leave it to me," said Mr. George to her in an under tone. "Leave it +entirely to me. You'll see presently." + +The officer, finding the carriages generally full, said to Mr. George, +in French, "Wait a moment, sir." So Mr. George said to the rest of the +party-- + +"We will all stand quietly here. He'll come to us presently." + +"Yes," said Mrs. Parkman, "when all the seats are taken. We shan't get +seats at all, William." + +"You'll see," said Mr. George. + +In a moment more the officer came to the party, and bowing respectfully +to Mrs. Parkman, he said, + +"Now, madam." + +He took out a key from his pocket, and unlocked the door of a carriage +which had not before been opened, and standing aside, he bowed to let +Mrs. Parkman pass. + +Mrs. Parkman was delighted. There was nobody in the carriage, and so she +had her choice of the seats. She chose one next the window on the +farther side. Her husband took the seat opposite to her. + +"Ah!" said she, with a tone of great satisfaction, "how nice this is! +And what a gentlemanly conductor! I never had the conductor treat me so +politely in my life." + +Mrs. Parkman was put in excellent humor by this incident, and she said, +towards the end of the journey, that she should have had a delightful +ride if the country had not been so flat and uninteresting. To Mr. +George and Rollo, who sat at the other window, it appeared extremely +interesting, there was so much that was curious and novel to be seen. +The immense green fields, with herds of cattle and flocks of sheep +feeding every where, and separated from each other by straight and +narrow canals instead of fences; the boats passing to and fro, loaded +with produce; the little bridges built over these canals here and there, +for the foot paths, with the gates across them to keep the cattle from +going over; the long road ways raised upon dikes, and bordered by +quadruple rows of ancient and venerable trees, stretching to a boundless +distance across the plains; and now and then a wide canal, with large +boats or vessels passing to and fro,--these and a multitude of other +such sights, to be seen in no other country in the world, occupied their +attention all the time, and kept them constantly amused. + +At length the train arrived at the station for the Hague, and the whole +party descended from the carriage. + +"Now, William," said Mr. George, "give me the ticket for your trunk, +and you yourself take Mrs. Parkman into the waiting room and wait till I +come." + +"No," said Mr. Parkman, "I cannot let you take that trouble." + +"Certainly," said Mr. George. "You said that I should have the entire +command. Give me the ticket." + +So Mr. Parkman gave him the ticket, and Mr. George went out. Rollo +remained with Mr. and Mrs. Parkman. In a few minutes Mr. George +returned, and said that the carriage was ready. They all went to the +door, and there they found a carriage waiting, with Mr. and Mrs. +Parkman's trunk upon the top of it. A man was holding the door open for +the party to get in. As soon as they had all entered, Mr. George put a +few coppers into the hand of the man at the door, and said to him, + +"Hotel Belview."[4] + +[Footnote 4: In French, _Hotel Belle Vue_; but Mr. George gave it the +English pronunciation, because the pronunciation of words in Holland is +much more like the English than like the French.] + +"HOTEL BELVIEW!" shouted the man to the coachman. On hearing this +command the coachman drove on. + +The road that led into the town lay along the banks of a canal, and +after going about half a mile in this direction, the horses turned and +went over a bridge. They were now in the heart of the town, but the +party could not see much, for the night was coming on and the sky was +cloudy. It was cold, too, and Mrs. Parkman wished to have the windows +closed. The carriage went along a narrow street, crossing bridges +occasionally, until at length it came to a region of palaces, and parks, +and grounds beautifully ornamented. Finally it stopped before a large +and very handsome hotel. The hotel stood in a street which had large and +beautiful houses and gardens on one side, and an open park, with deer +feeding on the borders of a canal, on the other. + +Two or three very nicely dressed servants came out when the carriage +stopped, and opened the door of it in a very assiduous and deferential +manner. + +"Wait here in the carriage," said Mr. George, "till I come." + +So saying, he himself descended from the carriage, and went into the +house, followed by two of the waiters that had come to the door. + +In about two minutes he came out again. + +"Yes," said he to Mrs. Parkman, "I think you will like the rooms." + +So saying, he helped Mrs. Parkman out of the carriage, and gave her his +arm to conduct her into the house. At the same time he said to one of +the waiters,-- + +"See that every thing is taken out of the carriage, and pay the +coachman." + +"Very well, sir," said the waiter. + +Mr. George led Mrs. Parkman up a broad and handsome staircase. He was +preceded by one waiter and followed by two others. These waiters had +taken every thing from the hands of the party, especially from Mrs. +Parkman, so that they were loaded with bags, cloaks, and umbrellas, +while the travellers themselves had nothing to carry. + +At the head of the staircase the waiter, who was in advance, opened a +door which led to a large drawing room or parlor, which was very +handsomely decorated and furnished. The windows were large, and they +looked out upon a handsome garden, though it was now too dark to see it +very distinctly. + +As Mrs. Parkman turned round again, after trying to look out at the +window, she saw a second waiter coming into the room, bringing with him +two tall wax candles in silver candlesticks. The candles had just been +lighted. The waiter placed them on the table, and then retired. + +"And now," said Mr. George to the other waiter, "we want a good fire +made here, and then let us have dinner as soon as you can." + +[Illustration: THE DINNER.] + +"Very well, sir," replied the waiter; and so saying he bowed +respectfully and retired. + +A neatly-dressed young woman, in a very picturesque and pretty cap, had +come into the room with the party, and while Mr. George had been +ordering the fire and the dinner, she had shown Mrs. Parkman to her +bedroom, which was a beautiful and richly furnished room with two single +beds in it, opening out of the parlor. On the other side of the parlor +was another bedroom, also with two beds in it, for Mr. George and +Rollo.[5] + +[Footnote 5: Almost all the bedrooms in the hotels on the continent of +Europe are furnished thus with two single beds, instead of one double +one. It is the custom for every body to sleep alone.] + +Mr. and Mrs. Parkman remained in their room for a time, and when they +came out they found the table set for dinner, and a very pleasant fire +burning in the grate. + +"Mr. George," said she, "I wish we had you to make arrangements for us +all the time." + +"It would be a very pleasant duty," said Mr. George. "You are so easily +satisfied." + +Mrs. Parkman seemed much pleased with this compliment. She did not for a +moment doubt that she fully deserved it. + +About eight o'clock that evening, Mr. George asked Mrs. Parkman at what +time she would like to have breakfast the next morning. + +"At any time you please," said she; "that is, if it is not too early." + +"How would half past nine do?" asked Mr. George. + +"I think that will do very well," said Mrs. Parkman. + +"We will say ten, if you prefer," said Mr. George. + +"O, no," said she, "half past nine will do very well." + +So Mr. George rang the bell, and when the waiter came, he ordered a +sumptuous breakfast, consisting of beefsteaks, hot rolls, coffee, +omelet, and every thing else that he could think of that was good, and +directed the waiter to have it ready at half past nine. + +"I shall also want a carriage and a pair of horses to-morrow," continued +Mr. George, "and a commissioner." + +"Very well, sir," said the waiter; "and what time shall you wish for the +carriage?" + +"What time, Mrs. Parkman?" repeated Mr. George, turning to the lady. +"Shall you be ready by half past ten to go out and see the town?" + +"Yes," said Mrs. Parkman, "that will be a very good time." + +"Very well, sir," said the waiter; and he bowed and retired. + +The next morning, when the different members of the party came out into +the breakfast room, they found the table set for breakfast. At half past +nine all were ready except Mrs. Parkman. She sent word by her husband +that she would come out in a few minutes. + +"There is no hurry," said Mr. George. "It will be time enough to have +breakfast when she comes." + +In about fifteen minutes she came. Mr. George asked her very politely +how she had spent the night; and after she had sat a few minutes talking +by the fire, he said that they would have breakfast whenever she wished. + +"Yes," said she, "I am ready any time. Indeed, I was afraid that I +should be late, and keep you waiting. I am very glad that I am in +season." + +So Mr. George rang the bell; when the waiter came, he ordered breakfast +to be brought up. + +While the party were at breakfast, a very nicely-dressed waiter, with a +white napkin over his arm, stood behind Mrs. Parkman's chair, and +evinced a great deal of alertness and alacrity in offering her every +thing that she required. When the breakfast was nearly finished, Mr. +George turned to him and said,-- + +"Is the commissioner ready, John, who is to go with us to-day?" + +"Yes, sir," said the waiter. + +"I wish you to go down and send him up," said Mr. George. + +So the waiter went down stairs to find the commissioner, and while he +was gone Mr. George took out a pencil and paper from his pocket. + +"I am going to ask him," said Mr. George to Mrs. Parkman, "what there is +to be seen here, and to make a list of the places; and then we will go +and see them all, or you can make a selection, just as you please." + +"Very well," said Mrs. Parkman. "I should like that." + +Accordingly, when the commissioner came in, Mr. George asked him to +name, in succession, the various objects of interest usually visited by +travellers coming to the Hague; and as he named them, Mr. George +questioned him respecting them, so as to enable Mrs. Parkman to obtain a +somewhat definite idea of what they were. The commissioner enumerated a +variety of places to be seen, such as the public museum of painting, +several private museums, the old palace, the new palace, two or three +churches, the town hall, and various other sights which tourists, +arriving at the Hague, usually like to view. Mr. George made a list of +all these, and opposite to each he marked the time which the +commissioner said would be required to see it well. After completing +this list, he said,-- + +"And there is a great watering place on the sea shore, not far from +this, I believe." + +"Yes, sir," said the commissioner, "about three miles." + +"Is it a pleasant ride there?" asked Mr. George. + +"Yes, sir," replied the commissioner. "It is a _very_ pleasant ride. You +can go one way and return another. It is a very fashionable place. The +queen and the princesses go there every summer." + +"Very well; it takes about two hours and a half, I suppose, to go there +and return," said Mr. George. + +"Yes, sir," said the commissioner. + +"Very well," said Mr. George. "Have the carriage ready in---- Shall we +say half an hour, Mrs. Parkman? Shall you be ready in half an hour?" + +Mrs. Parkman said that she should be ready in half an hour, and so Mr. +George appointed that time, and then the commissioner went away. + +Mr. George added up all the periods of time that the commissioner had +said would be required for the several sights, and found that there +would be time for them to see the whole, and yet be ready for the +afternoon train for Amsterdam, where Mr. and Mrs. Parkman were going +next. So Mrs. Parkman concluded not to omit any from the list, but to go +and see the whole. + +In half an hour the carriage was at the door, and in ten or fifteen +minutes afterwards Mrs. Parkman was ready. Just before they went, Mr. +George rang the bell again, and called for the bill, requesting the +waiter to see that every thing was charged--carriage, servants, +commissioner, and all. When it came, Mr. Parkman took out his purse, +expecting to pay it himself, but Mr. George took out his purse too. + +"The amount," said Mr. George, looking at the footing of the bill, "is +forty-five guilders and some cents. Your share is, say twenty-two +guilders and a half." + +"No, indeed," said Mr. Parkman. "My share is the exact footing of the +bill. You have nothing to do with this payment." + +"Yes," said Mr. George. "I have just one half to pay for Rollo and me. +We are four in all, and Rollo and I are two." + +Mr. Parkman seemed extremely unwilling to allow Mr. George to pay any +thing at all; but Mr. George insisted upon it, and so the bill was paid +by a joint contribution. + +All this time the carriage was ready at the door, and the gentlemen, +attended by two or three waiters, conducted Mrs. Parkman down to the +door. The party then drove, in succession, to the various places which +the commissioner had enumerated. There were museums consisting of a +great many rooms filled with paintings, and palaces, where they were +shown up grand staircases, and through long corridors, and into suites +of elegant apartments, and churches, and beautiful parks and gardens, +and a bazaar filled with curiosities from China and Japan, and a great +many other similar places. Mr. George paid very particular attention to +Mrs. Parkman during the whole time, and made every effort to anticipate +and comply with her wishes in all respects. In one case, indeed, I think +he went too far in this compliance, and the result was to mortify her +not a little. It was in one of the museums of paintings. Mrs. Parkman, +like other ladies of a similar character to hers, always wanted to go +where she could not go, and to see what she could not see. If, when she +came into a town, she heard of any place to which, for any reason, it +was difficult to obtain admission, that was the very place of all others +that she wished most to see; and if, in any museum, or palace, or +library that she went into, there were two doors open and one shut, she +would neglect the open ones, and make directly to the one that was shut, +and ask to know what there was there. I do not know as there was any +thing particularly blameworthy in this. On the contrary, such a feeling +may be considered, in some respects, a very natural one in a lady. But, +nevertheless, when it manifests itself in a decided form, it makes the +lady a very uncomfortable and vexatious companion to the gentleman who +has her under his care. + +In one of the rooms where our party went in the museum of paintings, +there was a door near one corner that was shut. All the other +doors--those which communicated with the several apartments where the +pictures were hung--were open. As soon as Mrs. Parkman came in sight of +the closed door, she pointed to it and said,-- + +"I wonder what there is in that room. I suppose it is something very +choice. I wish we could get in." + +Mr. Parkman paid, at first, no attention to this request, but continued +to look at the pictures around him. + +"I wish you would ask some of the attendants," she continued, "whether +we cannot go into that room." + +"O, no," replied her husband. "If it was any thing that it was intended +we should see, the door would be open. The fact that the door is shut is +notice enough that, we are not to go in there." + +"I'm convinced there are some choice pictures in there," said Mrs. +Parkman; "something that they do not show to every body. Mr. George, I +wish you would see if you can't find out some way to get in." + +"Certainly," said Mr. George, "I will try." + +So Mr. George walked along towards one of the attendants, whom he saw in +another part of the room,--putting his hand in his pocket as he went, to +feel for a piece of money. He put the piece of money into the +attendant's hand, and then began to talk with him, asking various +indifferent questions about the building; and finally he asked him where +that closed door led to. + +"O, that is only a closet," said the attendant, "where we keep our +brooms and dusters." + +"I wish you would just let us look into it," said Mr. George. "Here's +half a guilder for you." + +The man looked a little surprised, but he took the half guilder, +saying,-- + +"Certainly, if it will afford you any satisfaction." + +Mr. George then went back to where he had left the rest of his party, +and said to Mrs. Parkman,-- + +"This man is going to admit us to that room. Follow Him. I will come in +a moment." + +So Mr. George stopped to look at a large painting on the wall, while +Mrs. Parkman, with high anticipations of the pleasure she was to enjoy +in seeing what people in general were excluded from, walked in a proud +and stately manner to the door, and when the man opened it, saw only a +small, dark room, with nothing in it but brooms, dust pans, and lamp +fillers. She was exceedingly abashed by this adventure, and for the rest +of that day she did not once ask to see any thing that was not +voluntarily shown to her. + +After visiting all the places of note in the town, the coachman was +ordered to drive to the watering place on the sea shore. It was a very +pleasant drive of about three miles. Just before reaching the shore of +the sea, the road came to a region of sand hills, called _dunes_, formed +by the drifting sands blown in from the beach by the winds. Among these +dunes, and close to the sea shore, was an immense hotel, with long wings +stretching a hundred feet on each side, and a row of bath vans on the +margin of the beach before it. The beach was low and shelving, and it +could be traced for miles in either direction along the coast, whitened +by the surf that was rolling in from the German Ocean. + +After looking at this prospect for a time, and watching to see one or +two of the bathing vans drive down into the surf, in order to allow +ladies who had got into them to bathe, the party returned to the +carriage, and the coachman drove them through the village, which was +very quaint and queer, and inhabited by fishermen. The fishing boats +were drawn up on the shore in great numbers, very near the houses. Rollo +desired very much to go and see these boats and the fishermen, and +learn, if he could, what kind of fish they caught in them, and how they +caught them. But Mrs. Parkman thought that they had better not stop. +They were nothing but common fishing boats, she said. + +The carriage returned to the Hague by a different road from the one in +which it came. It was a road that led through a beautiful wood, where +there were many pleasant walks, with curious looking Dutch women going +and coming. As the party approached the town, they passed through a +region of parks, and palaces, and splendid mansions of all kinds. Mrs. +Parkman was curious to know who lived in each house, and Mr. George +contrived to communicate her inquiries to the coachman, by making signs, +and by asking questions partly in English and partly in German. But +though the coachman understood the questions, Mrs. Parkman could not +understand the answers that he gave, for they were Dutch +names,--sometimes long and sometimes short; but whether they were long +or short, the sounds were so uncouth and strange that Mrs. Parkman +looked terribly distressed in trying to make them out. + +At length the carriage arrived at the hotel again; and there the porters +put on the baggage belonging both to Mr. and Mrs. Parkman, and to Mr. +George and Rollo. It then proceeded to the station. Mr. George and Rollo +waited there until the train for Amsterdam arrived, and then took leave +of Mr. and Mrs. Parkman as they went to their seats in the carriage. +Mrs. Parkman shook hands with Mr. George very cordially, and said,-- + +"We are very much obliged to you, Mr. George, for your company to-day. +We have had a very pleasant time. I wish that we could have you to +travel with us all the time." + + * * * * * + +"I think she ought to be obliged to you," said Rollo, as soon as the +train had gone. + +"Not at all," said Mr. George. + +"Not at all?" repeated Rollo. "Why not? You have done a great deal for +her to-day." + +"No," said Mr. George. "All that I have done has not been for her sake, +but for William's. William is an excellent good friend of mine, and I am +very sorry that he has not got a more agreeable travelling companion." + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +CORRESPONDENCE. + + +One day, when Mr. George and Rollo were at the town of Leyden, it began +to rain while they were eating their breakfast. + +"Never mind," said Rollo. "We can walk about the town if it does rain." + +"Yes," said Mr. George, "we can; but we shall get tired of walking about +much sooner if it rains, than if it were pleasant weather. However, I am +not very sorry, for I should like to write some letters." + +"I've a great mind to write a letter, too," said Rollo. "I'll write to +my mother. Don't you think that would be a good plan?" + +"Why,--I don't know,"--said Mr. George, speaking in rather a doubtful +tone. "It seems to me that it would be hardly worth while." + +"Why not?" asked Rollo. + +"Why, the postage is considerable," said Mr. George, "and I don't +believe the letter would be worth what your father would have to pay for +it; that is, if it is such a letter as I suppose you would write." + +"Why, what sort of a letter do you suppose I should write?" asked Rollo. + +"O, you would do as boys generally do in such cases," replied his uncle. +"In the first place you would want to take the biggest sheet that you +could find to write the letter upon. Then you would take up as much of +the space as possible writing the date, and _My dear mother_. Then you +would go on for a few lines, saying things of no interest to any body, +such as telling what day you came to this place, and what day to that. +Perhaps you'd say that to-day is a rainy day, and that yesterday was +pleasant--just as if your mother, when she gets your letter, would care +any thing about knowing what particular days were rainy and what +pleasant, in Holland, a week back. Then, after you had got about two +thirds down the page, you would stop because you could not think of any +thing more to say, and subscribe your name with ever so many scrawl +flourishes, and as many affectionate and dutiful phrases as you could +get to fill up the space. + +"And that would be a letter that your father, like as not, would have to +pay one and sixpence or two shillings sterling for, to the London +postman." + +Rollo laughed at this description of the probable result of his proposed +attempt to write a letter; but he laughed rather faintly, for he well +recollected how many times he had written letters in just such a way. He +secretly resolved, however, that when they came in from their walk, and +Mr. George sat down to his writing, he would write too, and would see +whether he could not, for once, produce a letter that should be at least +worth the postage. + +After they came in from their walk, they asked the landlady to have a +fire made in their room; but she said they could not have any fire, for +the stoves were not put up. She said it was the custom in Holland not to +put the stoves up until October; and so nobody could have a fire in any +thing but foot stoves until that time. The foot stoves, she said, would +make it very comfortable for them. + +So she brought in two foot stoves. They consisted of small, square +boxes, with holes bored in the top, and a little fire of peat in an +earthen vessel within. Rollo asked Mr. George to give him two sheets of +thin note paper, and he established himself at a window that looked out +upon a canal. He intended to amuse himself in the intervals of his +writing in watching the boats that were passing along the canal. + +He took two sheets of note paper instead of one sheet of letter paper, +in order that, if he should get tired after filling one of them, he +could stop, and so send what he had written, without causing his father +to pay postage on any useless paper. + +"Then," thought he, "if I do _not_ get tired, I will go on and fill the +second sheet, and my mother will have a double small letter. A double +small letter will be just as good as a single large one." + +This was an excellent plan. + +Rollo also took great pains to guard against another fault which boys +often fall into in writing their letters; that is, the fault of growing +careless about the writing as they go on with the work, by which means a +letter is produced which looks very neat and pretty at the beginning, +but becomes an ill-looking and almost illegible scrawl at the end. + +"I'll begin," said he, "as I think I shall be able to hold out; and I'll +hold out to the end just as I begin." + +Rollo remained over his letter more than three hours. He would have +become exceedingly tired with the work if he had written continuously +all this time; but he stopped to rest very often, and to amuse himself +with observing what was passing before him in the street and on the +canal. + +Mr. George was occupied all this time in writing _his_ letter, and each +read what he had written to the other that same evening, after dinner. +The two letters were as follows:-- + + MR. GEORGE'S LETTER. + + "LEYDEN, HOLLAND, September 27. + + "MY DEAR EDWARD:[6] + +[Footnote 6: Edward was Mr. George's brother. He was a boy about twelve +years old.] + +"We have been travelling now for several days in Holland, and it is one +of the most curious and amusing countries to travel in that I have ever +seen. + +"We all know from the books of geography which we study at school, that +Holland is a very low country--lower in many places than the ocean; and +that the water of the ocean is kept from overflowing it by dikes, which +the people built ages ago, along the shores. I always used to suppose +that it was only from the sea that people had any danger to fear of +inundations; but I find now that it is not so. + +"The people have to defend themselves from inundations, not only on the +side towards the sea, but also quite as much, if not more, on the side +towards the land, from the waters of the River Rhine. The River Rhine +rises in Switzerland, and flows through various countries of Europe +until it comes to the borders of Holland, and there it spreads out into +innumerable branches, and runs every where, all over the country. It +would often overflow the country entirely, were it not that the banks +are guarded by dikes, like the dikes of the sea. The various branches of +the rivers are connected together by canals, which are also higher than +the land on each side of them. Thus the whole country is covered with a +great network of canals, rivers, and inlets from the sea, with water in +them higher than the land. When the tide is low in the sea, the surplus +water from these rivers and canals flows off through immense sluices at +the mouth of them. When the tide comes up, it is kept from flowing in by +immense gates, with which the sluices are closed. They call the tracts +of land that lie lower than the channels of water around them, +_polders_. That is rather a queer name. I suppose it is a Dutch name. + +"The polders all have drains and canals cut in them. As we ride along in +the railway carriages we overlook these polders. They look like immense +green fields, extending as far as you can see, with straight canals +running through them in every direction, and crossing each other at +right angles. These canals, in the bottom of the polders, are about six +feet wide. They are wide enough to prevent the cattle from jumping +across them, and so they serve for fences to divide the fields from each +other. They also serve for roads, for the Dutchmen use boats on their +farms to get in their hay and produce, instead of carts. + +"The water that collects in these low canals and drains, which run +across the polders, cannot flow out into the large canals, which are +higher than they are, and so they have to pump it out. They pump it out +generally by means of wind mills. So wherever you go, throughout all +Holland, you find an immense number of wind mills. These wind mills are +very curious indeed. Some of them are immensely large. They look like +lighthouses. The large ones are generally built of brick, and some of +them are several hundred years old. The sails of the big ones are often +fifty feet long, and sometimes eighty feet. This makes a wheel one +hundred and sixty feet in diameter. When you stand under one of these +mills, and look up, and see these immense sails revolving so high in the +air that the lowest point, when the sail comes round, is higher than the +tops of the four story houses, the effect is quite sublime. + +"With these wind mills they pump the water up from one drain or canal to +another, till they get it high enough to run off into the sea. In some +places, however, it is very difficult to get the water into the sea even +in this way, even at low tides. The River Amstel, for instance, which +comes out at Amsterdam, and into which a great many canals and channels +are pumped, is so low at its mouth that the sea is never, at the lowest +tides, more than a foot and a half below it. At high tides the sea is a +great deal above it. The average is about a foot above. Of course it +requires a great deal of management to get the waters of the river out, +and avoid letting the water of the sea in. They do it by immense +sluices, which are generally kept shut, and only opened when the tide is +low. + +"In the mean time, if it should ever so happen that they could not +succeed in letting the water out fast enough, it would, of course, +accumulate, and rise in the rivers, and press against the dikes that run +along the banks of it, till at last it would break through in some weak +place; and then, unless the people could stop the breach, the whole +polder on that side would be gradually overflowed. The inundation would +extend until it came to some other dike to stop it. The polder that +would first be filled would become a lake. The lake would be many miles +in extent, perhaps, but the water in it would not usually be very +deep--not more than eight or ten feet, perhaps; though in some cases +the polders are so low, that an inundation from the rivers and canals +around it would make the lake twenty or thirty feet deep. + +"Of course, in ancient times, when a portion of the country became thus +submerged, it was for the people to consider whether they would abandon +it or try to pump all that water out again, by means of the wind mills. +They would think that if they pumped it out it would be some years +before the land would be good again; for the salt in the water would +tend to make it barren. So they would sometimes abandon it, and put all +their energy into requisition to strengthen the dikes around it, in +order to prevent the inundation from spreading any farther. For water, +in Holland, tends to spread and to destroy life and property, just as +fire does in other countries. The lakes and rivers, where they are +higher than the land, are liable to burst their barriers after heavy +rains falling in the country, or great floods coming down the rivers, or +high tides rise from the sea, and so run into each other; and the people +have continually to contend against this danger, just as in other +countries they do against spreading conflagrations. + +"In the case of spreading fire, water is the great friend and helper of +man; and in the case of these spreading inundations of water, it is +wind that he relies upon. The only mode that the Dutch had to pump out +the water in former times was the wind mills. When the rains or the +tides inundated the land, they called upon the wind to help them lift +the water out to where it could flow away again. + +"There was a time, two or three hundred years ago, when all the wind +mills that the people could make, seem not to have been enough to do the +work; and there was one place, in the centre of the country, where the +water continued to spread more and more--breaking through as it spread +from one polder to another--until, at last, it swallowed up such an +extent of country as to form a lake thirty miles in circumference. This +lake at last extended very near to the gates of Haarlem, and it was +called the Holland Lake. You will find it laid down on all the maps of +Holland, except those which have been printed within a few years. The +reason why it is not laid down now is, because a few years ago, finding +that the wind mills were not strong enough to pump it out, the +government concluded to try what virtue there might be in steam. So they +first repaired and strengthened the range of dikes that extended round +the lake. In fact, they made them double all around, leaving a space +between for a canal. They made both the inner and outer of these dikes +water-tight; so that the water should neither soak back into the lake +again, after it was pumped out, nor ooze out into the polders beyond. +The way they made them water-tight was by lining them on both sides with +a good thick coating of clay. + +"When the dikes enclosing the lake were completed, the engineers set up +three very powerful steam engines, and gave to each one ten or twelve +enormous pumps to work. These pumping engines were made on such a grand +scale that they lifted over sixty tuns of water at every stroke. But yet +so large was the lake, and so vast the quantity of water to be drained, +that though there were three of the engines working at this rate, and +though they were kept at work night and day, it took them a year and a +half to lay the ground dry. The work was, however, at last accomplished, +and now, what was the bottom of the lake is all converted into pastures +and green fields. But they still have to keep the pumps going all the +time to lift out the surplus water that falls over the whole space in +rain. You may judge that the amount is very large that falls on a +district thirty miles round. They calculate that the quantity which they +have to pump up now, every year, in order to keep the land from being +overflowed again, is over fifty millions of tuns. And that is a quantity +larger than you can ever conceive of. + +"And yet the piece of ground is so large, that the cost of this pumping +makes only about fifty cents for each acre of land, which is very +little. + +"Besides these great spreading inundations, which Holland has always +been subject to from the lakes and rivers in the middle of the country, +there has always been a greater danger still to be feared from the ice +freshets of the Rhine, and other great rivers coming from the interior +of the country. The Rhine, you know, flows from south to north, and +often the ice, in the spring, breaks up in the middle of the course of +the river, before it gets thawed in Holland. The broken ice, in coming +down the stream towards the north, is kept within the banks of the +stream where the banks are high; but when it reaches Holland it is not +only no longer so confined, but it finds its flow obstructed by the ice +which there still remains solid, and so it gets jammed and forms dams, +and that makes the water rise very fast. At one time when such a dam was +formed, the water rose seven feet in an hour. At such times the pressure +becomes so prodigious that the dikes along the bank of the river are +burst, and water, sand, gravel, and ice, all pour over together upon +the surrounding country, and overwhelm and destroy every thing that +comes in its way. + +"Some of the inundations caused in Holland by these floods and freshets +have been terrible. In ancient times they were worse than they are now; +because now the dikes are stronger, and are better guarded. At one +inundation that occurred about sixty years ago, eighty thousand persons +were drowned. At another, three hundred years earlier, one hundred +thousand perished. Think what awful floods there must have been. + +"But I cannot write any more in this letter. I have taken up so much +space and time in telling you about the inundations and freshets, that I +have not time to describe a great many other things which I have seen, +that are quite as curious and remarkable as they. But when I get home I +can tell you all about them, in the winter evenings, and read to you +about them from my journal. + + "Your affectionate brother, + "GEORGE." + + + ROLLO'S LETTER. + + "LEYDEN, Tuesday, September 27. + + "MY DEAR MOTHER: + +"Uncle George and I are having a very fine time indeed in travelling +about Holland; it is such a funny country, on account of there being so +many canals. The water is all smooth and still in all the canals, +(except when the wind blows,) and so there must be excellent skating +every where in the winter. + +"I wish it was winter here now, for one day, so that uncle George and I +could have some Dutch skating. + +"There must be good skating every where here in the winter, for there is +water every where, and it is all good water for skating. In the fields, +instead of brooks running in crooked ways and tumbling over rocks, there +are only long and narrow channels of smooth water, just about wide +enough to skate upon, and reaching as far as you can see. + +"The people here speak Dutch, and they cannot understand me, and I +cannot understand them. And that is not the worst of it; they can't +understand that _I can't understand_ them. Sometimes the woman that +comes to make my bed tells me something in Dutch, and I tell her that I +can't understand. I know the Dutch for 'I can't understand.' Then she +says, 'O!' and goes on to tell me over again, only now she tries to +speak plainer--as if it could make any difference to me whether she +speaks plain or not. I shake my head, and tell her I can't understand +any thing. I tell her in French, and in English, and in Dutch. But it +does not do any good, for she immediately begins again, and tells me the +whole story all over again, trying to speak plainer than ever. I suppose +she thinks that any body can understand Dutch, if she only speaks it +plain enough to them. + +"When I want any thing of them, I always tell them by signs. The other +evening, uncle George and I wanted some candles. So I rang the bell, and +a woman came. I went to the door of the room, and made believe that I +had two candlesticks in my hand, and that I was bringing them in. I +made believe put them on the table, and then sat down and opened a book, +and pretended that I was reading by the light of them. She understood me +immediately. She laughed, and said, 'Ya, ya!' and went off out of the +room to get the candles. + +"Ya, ya, means yes, yes. + +"Another time we wanted a fire. So when the woman came in, I shivered, +and made believe that I was very cold, and then I went to the fireplace, +and made believe warm myself. Then I pointed to the fireplace, and made +a sign for her to go away and bring the fire to put there. But instead +of going, she told me something in Dutch, and shook her head; and when I +said I could not understand it, she told me over again; and finally she +went away, and sent the landlady. The landlady could speak a little +English. So she told me that we could not have any fire except in foot +stoves, for the fireplace stoves were not put up. + +[Illustration: THE BOAT FAMILY.] + +"It is very curious to walk about the streets, and see the boats on the +canals, and what the people are carrying back and forth in them. I watch +them sometimes from the windows of the hotel, especially when it rains, +and we cannot go out. They have every thing in these boats. They use +some of them instead of houses; and the man who owns them lives in them +with his wife and children, and sometimes with his ducks and chickens. + +"I often see the little children playing on the decks of the boat. Once +I saw one that had a dog, and he was trying to teach him to cipher on a +slate. His mother and the other children were on the boat too. + +"The people use their dogs here to draw carts. They have three or four +sometimes harnessed in together. The dogs look pretty poor and lean, but +they draw like good fellows. You would be surprised to see what great +loads they draw. They draw loads of vegetables to market, and then, when +the vegetables are sold, they draw the market women home in the empty +carts. + +"Only they don't mind very well, when they are told which way to go. I +saw a boy yesterday riding along in a cart, with a good big dog to draw +him, and when he came to a street where he wanted him to turn down, the +dog would not turn. The boy hallooed out to him in Dutch a good many +times, and finally the boy had to jump down out of the cart, and run and +seize him by the collar, and _pull_ him round. + +"It is not a great deal that they use dog carts to bring things to +market, for generally they bring them in boats. They take almost every +thing to and fro along the canals in boats; and it is very curious to +stand on a bridge and look down on the boats that pass under, and see +how many different kinds of boats there are, and how many different +kinds of things they have in them. This morning, I saw one that had the +bottom of it divided into three pens for animals. In the first pen were +two great cows, lying down on the straw; in the second pen were several +sheep; and in the third there were as many as a dozen small pigs, just +big enough to be roasted. I suppose it was a farmer bringing in his +stock to market. + +"Sometimes they row the boats along the canal, and sometimes they push +them with setting poles. They have the longest setting poles in some of +the boats that I ever saw. There is an iron pike at one end of the pole, +and a wooden knob at the other. When they are pushing the boat by means +of one of these poles, they run the ironed end of it down to the bottom, +and then the man puts his shoulder to the little knob at the other end +and pushes. As the boat goes on, he walks along the boat from the bow to +the stern, pushing all the way as hard as he can push. + +"When they are out of town the men pull the boats along the canals by +means of a long cord, which is fastened to a strap over their shoulders. +With this strap they walk along on the tow-path of the canal, pulling in +this way--so that if the cord should break, I should think they would +fall headlong on the ground. + +"I saw a man and a woman the other day pulling a double boat, loaded +with hay, along a canal. The hay was loaded across from one boat to the +other. It made as much as five or six of the largest cart loads of hay +that I ever saw. I was surprised to see that a man and a woman could +draw so much. They drew it by long lines, and by straps over their +shoulders. The woman's line was fastened to one of the boats, and the +man's to the other. + +"The people travel a great deal in boats in these parts of the country, +where there are no railroads. Uncle George and I took a little journey +in one, the other day. I wanted to go very much, but uncle George was +afraid, he said, that they might take us somewhere where there would be +nobody that could talk English, and so we might get into some serious +difficulty. But he said that he would go with me a few miles, if I could +find a canal boat going to some place that we knew. So I found one going +to a town called Delft. We knew that place, because we had come through +it, or close by it, by the railway. + +"Uncle George said that it was an excellent plan to go there, for then, +if we got tired of the canal boat in going, we could come home by a +railroad train. + +"So we went; and we had a very pleasant time, indeed. I found the canal +boat by going to the place where the boats all were, and saying, _Delft, +Delft_, to the people; and then they pointed me to the right boat. So we +got in. When the captain came for the fare, I took out a handful of +money, and said _Delft_, and also pointed to uncle George. So he took +out enough to pay for uncle George and me to go to Delft. At least I +suppose he thought it was enough, though I thought it was very little. + +"We had a very pleasant sail to Delft. The banks of the canal are +beautiful. They are green and pretty every where, and in some places +there were beautiful gardens, and summer houses, and pavilions close +upon the shore. + +"But now I begin to be tired of writing. I should have been tired a +great while ago, only I have stopped to rest pretty often, and to look +out the window, and see what is going by on the canal. + +"There is a boat coming now with a mast, and I don't see what they are +going to do, for there is a bridge here, and it is not a draw bridge. +Almost all the bridges are draw bridges, but this one is not. So I don't +see how he is going to get by. + +"Ah, I see how it is! The mast is on a hinge, so that it can turn down +backward, and lie along flat on the deck of the boat. It is going down +now. + +"Now it is down, and the boat is going under the bridge. + +"But good by, mother, for it is time for me to stop. + + "Your affectionate and dutiful son, + "ROLLO. + +"P. S. This is the longest letter that I ever wrote." + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +THE COMMISSIONER. + + +AS may well be imagined, the best use to which the green fields of +Holland can be put, is the raising of grass to feed cattle; for the +wetness of the land, which makes it somewhat unsuitable to be ploughed, +causes grass to grow upon it very luxuriantly. Accordingly, as you ride +through the country along the great railway lines, you see, every where, +herds of cattle and flocks of sheep feeding in the meadows that extend +far and wide in every direction. + +The cattle are kept partly for the purpose of being fatted and sent to +market for beef, and partly for their milk, which the Dutch farmers make +cheese of. Dutch cheeses are celebrated in every part of the world. + +In the neighborhood of Amsterdam there are a number of dairy villages +where cheeses are made, and some of them are almost always visited by +travellers. They are great curiosities, in fact, on account of their +singular and most extraordinary neatness. Cleanliness is, in all parts +of the world, deemed a very essential requisite of a dairy, and the +Dutch housewives in the dairy villages of Holland have carried the idea +to the extreme. The village which is most commonly visited by strangers +who go to Amsterdam, is one called Broek. It lies to the north of +Amsterdam, and at a distance of about five or six miles from it. + +One day when Mr. George and Rollo arrived in Amsterdam, Mr. George, just +at sundown, looked out at the window of the hotel, and said,-- + +"Rollo, I think it is going to be a superb day to-morrow." + +"So do I," said Rollo. + +"At least," said Mr. George, "I should think so if I were in America. +The wind has all gone down, and the western sky is full of golden clouds +shining in roseate splendor." + +Mr. George enunciated these high-sounding words in a pompous and +theatrical manner, which made Rollo laugh very heartily. + +"And, to descend from poetry to plain prose," said Mr. George, "I think +we had better take advantage of the fine weather to go to Broek +to-morrow." + +"Very well," said Rollo, "that plan suits me exactly." + +Rollo was always ready for any plan which involved the going away from +the place where he was, to some new place which he had not seen before. + +"But how are we going to find the way there?" said Rollo. + +"I shall take a commissioner," said Mr. George. "I am going to Saandam, +too, where Peter the Great learned ship carpentry." + +"I have heard something about that," said Rollo, "but I don't know much +about it." + +"Why, Peter the Great was emperor of Russia," said Mr. George, "and he +wished to introduce ship building into his dominions. So he came to +Holland to learn about the construction of ships, in order that he might +be better qualified to take the direction of the building of a fleet in +Russia. Saandam was the place that he came to. While he was there he +lived in a small, wooden house, near the place where the ship building +was going on. That house is there now, and almost every body that comes +to this part of the country goes to see it." + +"How long ago was it that he was there?" asked Rollo. + +"It was more than one hundred and fifty years ago," said Mr. George. + +"I should not think a wooden house would have lasted so long," said +Rollo. + +"It would not have lasted so long," replied Mr. George, "if they had not +taken special pains to preserve it. They have built a brick house around +it and over it, to protect it from the weather, and so it has been +preserved. Now I think we had better go to-morrow and see Broek, and +also Saandam, and I am going to take a commissioner." + +Mr. George had employed a commissioner once before, as the reader will +perhaps recollect, namely, at the Hague; and perhaps I ought to stop +here a moment to explain more fully what a commissioner is. He is a +servant hired by the day to conduct strangers about the town where they +reside, and about the environs, if necessary, to show them what there is +that is curious and wonderful there. These men are called, sometimes +commissioners and sometimes _valets de place_, and in their way they are +very useful. + +If a traveller arrives at a hotel in the morning, at any important town +in Europe, before he has been in his room fifteen minutes he generally +hears a knock at his door, and on bidding the person come in, a +well-dressed looking servant man appears and asks,-- + +"Shall you wish for a commissioner, sir, to-day?" + +Or if the gentleman, after remaining in his room a few minutes, takes +his wife or his daughter, or whomever he may have travelling with him, +and goes out from the door of the hotel, he is pretty sure to be met +near the door by one or more of these men, who accost him earnestly, +saying,-- + +"Do you want a commissioner, sir?" Or, "Shall I show you the way, sir?" +Or, "Would you like to see the museum, sir?" + +When a traveller intends to remain some days in a place, he has +generally no occasion for a commissioner; since, in his rambles about +the town, he usually finds all the places of interest himself, and in +such a case the importunities of the commissioners seeking employment +are sometimes annoying to him. But if his time is very short, or if he +wishes to make excursions into the neighborhood of a town where he does +not understand the language of the people, then such a servant is of +very great advantage. + +Mr. George thought that his proposed excursion to Broek and Saandam was +an occasion on which a commissioner could be very advantageously +employed. Accordingly, after he and Rollo had finished their dinner, +which they took at a round table near a window in the coffee room, he +asked Rollo to ring the bell. + +Rollo did so, and a waiter came in. + +"Send me in a commissioner, if you please," said Mr. George. + +"Very well, sir," said the waiter, with a bow. + +The waiter went out, and in a few minutes a well-dressed and very +respectable looking young man came in, and advancing towards Mr. George, +said,-- + +"Did you wish to see a commissioner, sir?" + +"Yes," said Mr. George. "I want to make some inquiries about going to +Broek and to Saandam, to-morrow. I want to know what the best way is to +go, and what the expenses will be." + +So saying, Mr. George took out a pencil and a piece of paper from his +pocket, in order to make a memorandum of what the commissioner should +say. + +"In the first place," asked Mr. George, "what is your name? I shall want +to know what to call you." + +"My name is James," said the commissioner. + +"Well, now, James," said Mr. George, "I want you to tell me what the +best way is to go, and what all the expenses will be. I want to know +every thing beforehand." + +"Well, sir," said James, "we shall go first by the ferry boat across to +the Y,[7] and there we shall take the _trekschuyt_ for a short distance +on the canal." + +[Footnote 7: The Y is the name of the sheet of water which lies before +Amsterdam. It is a sort of harbor.] + +"And how much will that cost?" asked Mr. George. + +"For the three, forty-five cents," said James. + +He meant, of course, Dutch cents. It takes two and a half Dutch cents to +make one American cent. + +"There," continued James, "we take a carriage." + +"And how much will the carriage be?" asked Mr. George. + +"To go to Broek and back, and then to Saandam, will be ten guilders." + +Mr. George made memoranda of these sums on his paper, as James named +them. + +"And the tolls," continued James, "will be one guilder and twenty-five +cents more." + +"And the driver?" asked Mr. George. + +In most of the countries of Europe, when you make a bargain for the +carriage, the driver's services are not included in it. He expects a fee +besides. + +"The driver, fifty cents. Half a guilder," said James. + +"Is that enough for him?" asked Mr. George. + +"Yes, sir," said James, "that's enough." + +"We will call it seventy-five cents," said Mr. George. So saying, he +wrote seventy-five. + +"Then there will be some fees to pay, I suppose," said Mr. George, "both +at Broek and at Saandam." + +"Yes, sir," said James. "We pay twenty-five cents at the dairy, +twenty-five cents at the garden, and twenty-five to the hostler. That +makes seventy-five. And the same at Saandam, to see the hut of Peter the +Great, and the house. That makes one guilder fifty centimes." + +"Is that all?" asked Mr. George. + +"There will be forty-five cents for the ferry, coming back," said James. + +Mr. George added this sum to the column, and then footed it up. The +amount was nearly fifteen guilders. + +"We will call it fifteen guilders," said he. "To-morrow I will give you +fifteen guilders, and you will pay all expenses. And then what shall I +have to pay you for your services?" + +"My charge is four guilders for the day," said James. + +"Very well," said Mr. George. "And at what time in the morning will it +be best to set out?" + +"There is a boat at nine o'clock," said James. + +"Then we will leave here at half past eight. We will have breakfast, +Rollo, at eight. Or perhaps we can have breakfast at Broek. Is there a +hotel there, James?" + +"Yes, sir," said James. "There is a hotel there." + +"Very well. Then we will wait till we get there before we take +breakfast, and we will expect you at half past eight. Our room is number +eleven." + +The arrangement being thus fully made, the commissioner, promising to be +punctual, bowed and retired. + +"Now, Rollo," said Mr. George, "to-morrow we will have a good time. +After I give the commissioner the fifteen guilders, I shall have no +further care or responsibility, but shall be taken along over the whole +ground as if I were a child under the care of his father." + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +THE GREAT CANAL. + +The commissioner knocked at Mr. George's door at the time appointed. Mr. +George and Rollo were both ready. Mr. George counted out the fifteen +guilders on the table, and James put them in his pocket. The party then +set out. + +Mr. George wished to stop by the way to put a letter in the post office, +and to pay the postage of it. He desired to do this personally, for he +wished to inquire whether the letter would go direct. So James led them +by the way of the post office, and conducted Mr. George into the office +where foreign letters were received, and the payment of postage taken +for them. Here James served as interpreter. Indeed, it is one of the +most important duties of a commissioner to serve as an interpreter to +his employer, whenever his services are required in this capacity. + +When the letter was put in, the party resumed their walk. The +commissioner went on before, carrying Mr. George's travelling shawl and +the umbrella, and Mr. George and Rollo followed. The way lay along a +narrow street, by the side of a canal. There were a thousand curious +sights to be seen, both among the boats on the canal and along the road; +but Rollo could not stop to examine them, for the commissioner walked +pretty fast. + +"I wish he would not walk so fast," said Rollo. + +"Ah, yes," said Mr. George, "he is right this morning, for we want to +get to the pier in time for the boat. But in walking about the town to +see it, it would be a great trouble to us." + +"To-morrow we will go about by ourselves," said Rollo, "and stop when +and where we please." + +"We will," said Mr. George. + +At last the party came out to what may be called the front of the city, +where they could look off upon the harbor. This harbor is a sheet of +water called the Y, which has been before referred to. The morning was +bright and beautiful, and the water was covered with ships, steamers, +barges, boats, and vessels of every form and size, going to and fro. The +steamers passed swiftly, but the sailing vessels scarcely moved, so calm +and still was the morning air. The sun was shining, and the whole scene +presented to Mr. George's and Rollo's view, as they looked out over the +water, was extremely brilliant and beautiful. + +The commissioner led the way out over a long pier supported by piles, to +a sort of landing platform at a distance from the shore. This place was +quite large. It had a tavern upon it, and a great many different offices +belonging to the different lines of steamers, and piers projecting in +different directions for the different boats and steamers to land at. It +stood at some distance from the shore, and the whole had the appearance +of a little village on an island. It would have been an island indeed, +if there had been any land about it; but there was not. It was built +wholly on piles. + +Here were crowds of people going and coming on this stage, some having +just landed from the different steamers that had just arrived, and some +about to embark in others that were going away. Small boats were coming, +too, over the water, with passengers in them, among whom were many +peasant girls, whose foreheads and temples were adorned with a profusion +of golden ornaments, such as are worn by the ladies of North Holland. +Rollo looked this way and that as he passed along the stage, and he +wished for time to stop and examine what he saw; but the commissioner +walked rapidly on, and led the way to the ferry boat. + +"You will walk on board," said James, "while I get the tickets." + +So Mr. George and Rollo went over the plank on board the boat, while +James turned to a little office that stood near to get the tickets. + +There was a man standing at the end of the plank to collect the tickets +as the passengers came on board. Mr. George, as he passed, pointed back +to the office where James had gone. The man bowed, and he and Rollo +passed on. + +"How independent we are!" said Mr. George. "I shall have nothing to do +with making any payments all day to-day, and it will seem as if we were +travelling free." + +The ferry boat was of a very singular construction, and most singular +looking people they were who were on board of it. It had a great flat +deck, which was of an oval form, and was spreading out very wide at the +sides. There were seats here and there in different places, but no +awning or shelter of any kind overhead. Rollo was glad of this, for the +morning was so fine, and the view on every side was so magnificent, that +he was very much pleased to have it so wholly unobstructed. + +As soon as the chimes of the city clocks began to strike for nine, the +various steamboats began to shoot out in different directions from the +piers of the landing, and soon the ferry boat began to move, too. She +moved, however, very slowly. + +"What a slow and clumsy boat!" said Rollo. + +"I'm glad she is slow," replied Mr. George, "for I want to look about. I +should be willing to be an hour in going across this ferry." + +The prospect on every side was, indeed, very fine. On looking back they +could see the buildings of the town extending far and wide for miles, +with domes, and towers, and spires, and tops of trees, and masts of +ships rising together every where above the tops of the houses. The +water of the harbor was covered with ships and steamers passing to and +fro--those near glittering in the sun, while the distant ones were half +lost in a smoky haze that every where softened and concealed the +horizon. Mr. George and Rollo gazed earnestly on this scene, looking now +in this direction, and now in that, but not speaking a word. + +When they were about half across the Y, James came to Mr. George, and +said,-- + +"This ferry boat connects with a steamer on the canal, which goes to the +Helder, and also with various trekschuyts. We shall take a trekschuyt to +go for a short distance?--as far as to the place where we shall get a +carriage." + +"Very well," said Mr. George. "Arrange it as you think best. Then we +shall go a short distance on the great canal." + +"Yes, sir," said James. "You will like to see a little of the canal." + +"I shall, indeed," said Mr. George. + +The great canal of which James here spoke is the grandest work of the +kind in Holland, and perhaps in the world. If you look at the map you +will see that Amsterdam stands somewhat in the interior of the country, +and that the only approach to it, by sea, is through a great gulf called +the Zuyder Zee. Now, the water in the Zuyder Zee is shallow. There are +channels, it is true, that are tolerably deep; but they are very winding +and intricate, and they are so surrounded with shoals and sand banks as +to make the navigation very difficult, especially for ships of large +size. + +The people, accordingly, conceived the plan of digging a canal across +the country; from Amsterdam to the nearest place where there was deep +water on the sea. This was at a point of land called the Helder. + +The reason why there was deep water there, was, that that was the outlet +for the Zuyder Zee, and the water rushing in there when the tide is +rising, and out again when it goes down, keeps the channel deep and +clear. + +So it was determined to make a canal from the Helder to Amsterdam. But +the land was lower, almost all the way, than the sea. This rendered it +impossible to construct the canal so as to make it of the same level +with the sea, without building up the banks of it to an inconvenient +height. Besides, it was just as well to make the canal lower than the +sea, and then to build gates at each end of it, to prevent the sea water +from coming in. + +"Then how were the ships to get in?" asked Rollo, when Mr. George +explained this to him. + +"Why, there were two ways," replied Mr. George, "by which ships might +get in. You see, although the canal is lower than the sea is generally, +there is an hour or two every day when the tide goes down, in which the +two are about on a level. Accordingly, by opening the gates when the +tide is low, a communication would be made by which the vessels could +sail in and out." + +"But that would be inconvenient, I should think," said Rollo, "not to +have the gates open but twice a day." + +"Yes," said Mr. George; "and so, to enable them to admit ships at any +time, they have built _locks_ at each end." + +"Like the locks in a common canal in America?" said Rollo. + +"Yes," said Mr. George; "and by means of these locks, ships can be +taken in and out at any time." + +"I don't exactly understand how they do it," said Rollo. + +"Let me explain it to you, then," replied Mr. George. "Listen +attentively, and picture to your mind precisely what I describe, and see +if you understand. + +"First," continued Mr. George, "imagine that you are down by the sea +shore, where the canal ends. The water in the sea is higher than it is +in the canal, and there are two sets of gates, at a little distance from +each other, near the mouth of the canal, which keep the water of the sea +from flowing in." + +"Yes," said Rollo, "I can picture that to my mind. But how far apart are +the two sets of gates?" + +"A little farther apart," said Mr. George, "than the length of the +longest ship. Of course one pair of these locks is towards the sea, and +the other towards the canal. I will call the first the sea gates, and +the other the canal gates. The space between the two gates is called the +lock." + +"Yes," said Rollo, "I understand all that." + +"Now," continued Mr. George, "a ship comes in, we will suppose, and is +to be taken into the canal. First, the men open the sea gates. The sea +can now flow into the lock, but it cannot get into the canal, because +the canal gates are still shut." + +"Yes," said Rollo. + +"And, now you see," continued Mr. George, "that as the water in the lock +is high, and on a level with the sea, the ship can sail into the lock." + +"But it can't get down into the canal," said Rollo. + +"No," replied Mr. George, "not yet. But now the men shut the sea gates, +and thus shut the ship in. They then open the passages through the canal +gates, and this lets the water out of the lock until it subsides to the +level of that in the canal, and the ship settles down with it. But the +sea cannot come in, for the sea gates, that are now behind the ship, are +shut. When the water in the lock has gone down to the canal level, then +they can open the gates, and the ship can sail along out of the lock +into the canal. + +"Thus they lock the ship down into the canal at one end, and when she +has passed through the canal, they lock her up into the Y again at the +other." + +"Yes," said Rollo. "I understand it now. And shall we go into the canal +through the locks in this way?" + +"I don't know," said Mr. George. "I'll ask James." + +So Mr. George beckoned to James to come to him, and asked him whether +they should enter the canal through the lock. + +"No," said James. "The ferry boat does not go into the canal at all. We +go into a little dock or harbor by the side of it, and the passengers +walk over the dike, and down to the canal, where they find the boats +ready for them that they are to take." + +"Why don't they pass from those boats through the locks, and let them +come across to Amsterdam?" asked Rollo, "and then we might get on board +them there, and so not have to change from one boat to the other." + +"Because it takes some time, and some trouble," said James, "to pass any +thing through the locks, and it is not worth while to do it, except in +case of large and valuable ships. So the boats and steamers that ply +along the canal are left inside the lock, and the passengers are taken +to and from them by the ferry boat." + +The ferry boat, by this time, began to approach the shore. It entered +into a little opening in the land, which formed a sort of harbor. Here +the passengers were landed at a wharf, which was surrounded by small +buildings. Thence they ascended what was evidently a large dike. When +they reached the top of the dike they saw below them, on the other side +of it, the beginning of the canal. It lay several feet lower than the +water of the harbor in which they had left the ferry boat; but it was +quite wide, and it was bordered by broad dikes with avenues of trees +upon them, on either side. On one side, under the trees, was a tow path, +and on the other a broad and smoothly gravelled road. + +Two boats were lying moored to the wharves at the side of the canal. One +was a long, sharp, and narrow steamer, which was going through the whole +length of the canal to the Helder. The other was a trekschuyt, or canal +boat, which was going only a short way, to the nearest village. + +The passengers that came in the ferry boat divided into two parties, as +they came down the dike. One party went to the steamer, the other to the +trekschuyt. Mr. George and Rollo, of course, went with the last. + +The trekschuyt was a curious sort of boat. It was built like the Noah's +ark made for children to play with; that is, it was a broad boat, with a +house in it. The roof of the house, which formed the deck of the boat, +was flat, and there were seats along the sides of it, and a railing +behind them on the margin, to keep people from falling off. At each end +of the house were two flights of steps, leading up to the roof or deck, +and below them another flight, which led down to the little cabins +below. + +As soon as Rollo got on board, he first ran up on the deck. He sat down +on the seat upon one side, and then, after looking about a moment, he +ran over to the other side, and sat down there. Then he got up, and said +that he was going below to look at the cabins. + +Mr. George, all the time, stood quietly on the deck, looking at the +canal, and at the country around. He could see the canal extending, in a +winding direction, across the country; but the view of it was soon lost, +as the winding of its course brought the dikes on the sides of it in the +way so that they concealed the water. He could, however, trace its +course for some distance, by the masts and sails of vessels which he saw +at different distances rising among the green trees. Along the dike, on +one side, was a high road, and on the other, a tow path. Different boats +were coming and going in the part of the canal that was near. They were +drawn by long and slender lines, that were fastened to a tall mast set +up near the bows of the boat. Some were drawn by men, and some by +horses. + +[Illustration: THE TREKSCHUYT.] + +Before the trekschuyt had gone far, after it commenced its voyage, a +great ship was seen coming on the canal. She was coming from the Helder. +It was a ship that had come from the West Indies, and was going to +Amsterdam. The wind was contrary for her, and they could not use their +sails, and so they were drawing her along by horses. There were two +teams of horses, eight in each team. The view of these teams, walking +along the tow path, with the immense ship following them in the canal, +presented a very imposing spectacle. + +The trekschuyt started before the Helder steamer; but it had not gone +far before Rollo, who had now ascended to the deck again, saw her coming +up behind very rapidly. + +"I tell you what it is, uncle George," said he, "I wish you and I were +on board that steamer, and were going along the whole length of the +canal." + +"So do I," said Mr. George. + +"Could not we get on board?" asked Rollo. + +"No," said Mr. George. "We cannot change our plan to-day very well. But +now that we have found the way, we can come over here any morning we +please, and take the Helder steamer." + +"Let's come," said Rollo, eagerly. "Let's come to-morrow." + +"We'll see about that," said Mr. George. "See, here comes a market +boat." + +"Yes," said Rollo. "The man is towing it, and his wife is steering." + +"Now we will see how they pass," said Rollo. + +There was no difficulty about passing, for as soon as the man who was +towing the market boat found that the trekschuyt had come up to his +line, he stopped suddenly, and the advance of his boat caused his line +to drop into the water. The trekschuyt then sailed right over it. By +this simple manoeuvre, boats and vessels could pass each other very +easily, and generally the manoeuvre was executed in a prompt and very +skilful manner. But once, when they were passing a boat, the woman who +was steering it put the helm the wrong way, and though the captain of +the trekschuyt, and also the husband of the woman, who was on the shore, +shouted to her repeatedly in a loud and angry manner, she could not get +it right again in time to avoid a collision. The trekschuyt gave the +boat a dreadful bump as it went by. Fortunately, however, it did no +harm, except to frighten the poor woman, and break their tow line. + +After going on in this way for fifteen or twenty minutes along the +canal, the trekschuyt arrived at its place of destination, and Mr. +George and Rollo disembarked at a little village of very neat and pretty +houses, built along the dike on one side of the canal. + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE DAIRY VILLAGE. + + +Mr. George and Rollo walked ashore in a very independent manner, having +the commissioner to attend to the tickets. They went up to the top of +the dike, and waited for the commissioner to come to them. + +"While I am getting the carriage ready," said the commissioner, when he +came, "perhaps you will like to take a walk on the bridge, where there +is a very fine view. But first, perhaps, you will look at the carriage, +and choose the one that you will like." + +So saying, James led the way into a sort of stable, where there were a +great many very nice and pretty carriages, arranged very snugly +together. Mr. George was surprised to see so many. He asked James how it +happened. + +"O, there is a great deal of travelling on the roads about here," said +James. "The country is very rich and populous, and the people of +Amsterdam come out a great deal." + +Some of the carriages were very elegant. One of these an hostler took +out, and told Mr. George that he could have it if he chose. There was +another which was much less elegant, but it was more open. + +"Let us take the open one," said Rollo. "We can see so much better." + +So they decided upon the open one; and then, while the hostlers were +harnessing the horses, Mr. George and Rollo went forward to the bridge. + +The bridge led over a branch canal, which here comes into the main +canal. The road to it lay along the dike, and formed the street of a +little village. It was paved with bricks placed edgewise, and was as +neat as a parlor floor. The houses were all on one side. They were very +small; but they were so neat and pretty, and the forms of them were so +strange and queer, that they looked like play houses, or like a scene in +fairy land, rather than like the real habitations of men. + +There were pretty gardens by them, which extended down the slope of the +dike. The slopes of the dikes are always very gradual, and very nice +gardens can be made on them. + +Mr. George and Rollo stood on the bridge, and looked up and down the +canals on either side. They saw boats, with people in them, getting +ready to set out on their voyages. + +"I wonder where that canal leads to?" said Rollo. + +"O, it goes off into the interior of the country, some where," said Mr. +George. "The country is as full of canals as Massachusetts is of roads." + +"I should like, very much," said Rollo, "to get on board that boat with +that man, and go with him wherever he is going." + +"So should I, if I knew Dutch," said Mr. George, "so that I could talk +with him as we sailed along." + +"How pretty it is all about here," said Rollo. "What a queer +village,--built on a bank! And what a funny road! It looks like a play +road." + +The road, where it led through the village, did, indeed, present a very +singular appearance. It was very narrow indeed, being barely wide enough +for one carriage to pass, and leaving scarcely room on the side for a +child to crowd up against the house, and let it go by. On the other side +was a row of trees, with green grass beneath, covering the banks of the +canal. + +After Mr. George and Rollo had been standing a few minutes on the bridge +they saw that the carriage was nearly ready. So they went back to the +place and got in. The top of the carriage was turned entirely down, so +that they could see about them in every direction as they rode along. +James mounted on the box outside, with the driver. + +"Now," said Rollo, in a tone of great satisfaction, "we will have a very +first rate ride." + +The carriage drove along through the little street, which has already +been described. Rollo could reach his hand out and almost touch the +houses as they rode by. There were little shops kept in some of the +houses, and the things that were for sale were put up at the windows. +They looked exactly as if children had arranged them for play. + +After leaving the village the road turned and followed the dike of a +branch canal. The views on every side were extremely beautiful. The +canal was carried along between its two banks, high above the rest of +the country, and here and there, at moderate distances from each other, +wind mills were to be seen busy at work pumping up water from the drains +in the fields, and pouring it into the canal. The fields were covered +with herds of cattle and flocks of sheep, and here and there were +parties of men mowing the grass or loading the new-made hay into boats, +that lay floating in the small canals which bordered the fields. + +In looking about over the country, there were wind mills to be seen in +all directions, their long arms slowly revolving in the air, and +interspersed among them were the masts and sails of sloops and +schooners, that were sailing to and fro along the canals. As the water +of these canals was often hidden from view by the dikes which bordered +them, it seemed as if the ships and steamers were sailing on the land in +the midst of green fields and trees, and smiling villages. + +After going on in this way for an hour or more, the carriage approached +the village which Mr. George and Rollo were going to see. The village +lay on the borders of a canal, which was here quite broad, and as the +road approached it on the other side of the canal, it was in full view +for Mr. George and Rollo as the party approached it. The houses were +close to the margin of the water. They were very neat and pretty, and +were, most of them, painted green. Many of them had little canals by the +side of them, like lanes of water leading into the rear of the houses, +and the prettiest little porticoes, and trellises, and piazzas, and +pavilions, and summer houses were seen in every part. The road went +winding round a wide basin, and then, after crossing a bridge, the +carriage stopped at an inn. + +The inn was entirely outside of the village. The commissioner said that +they must walk through the village, for there was no carriage road +through it at all. + +So Mr. George and Rollo dismounted, and the hostlers came out from the +stable to unharness the horses. + +"Now, Rollo," said Mr. George, "we will go in and order a breakfast, and +then we will take our walk through the village while it is getting +ready." + +"Yes," said Rollo. "I should like some breakfast very much." + +"What shall we have?" asked Mr. George. + +"What you like," replied Rollo. "You always get good breakfasts." + +"Well," said Mr. George, "we will tell them the old story." + +Just at this moment James came up to the door of the hotel where Mr. +George and Rollo had been standing during this conversation. + +"You may order breakfast for us, James," said Mr. George, "and let them +have it ready for us when we get back from our walk." + +"Yes, sir," said James. "And what will you have?" + +"_Biftek aux pommes_,"[8] said Mr. George, "and coffee. And let them +give us some of their best cheese." + +[Footnote 8: Pronounced _biftek-o-pom_. This is a very favorite +breakfast in France, and every where, in fact, throughout Europe. Mr. +George liked it better than any thing else, not only for his breakfast, +but also for his dinner. It consists of very tender beefsteaks, +deliciously seasoned, and accompanied with sliced potatoes, fried in a +peculiar manner, and arranged all around the margin of the dish.] + +The commissioner went in to give the order. + +"Uncle George," said Rollo, "I think you'll be known all through this +country as the beefsteak and fried potato man." + +Mr. George laughed. + +"Well," said he. "There could not be a more agreeable idea than that to +be associated with my memory." + +The truth is, that both Mr. George and Rollo liked the _biftek aux +pommes_ better than almost any thing else that they could have, whether +for breakfast or dinner. + +After having given the order for the breakfast to a very nice and +tidy-looking Dutch girl, whose forehead and temples were adorned with a +profusion of golden ornaments, after the fashion of the young women of +North Holland, the commissioner came back, and the whole party set out +to walk through the village. There were no streets, properly so called, +but only walks, about as wide as the gravel walks of a garden, which +meandered about among the houses and yards, in a most extraordinary +manner. There were beautiful views, from time to time, presented over +the water of the canal on which the village was situated; and there were +a great number of small canals which seemed to penetrate every where, +with the prettiest little bridges over them, and landing steps, and +bowers, and pavilions along the borders of them, and gayly-painted boats +fastened at kitchen doors, and a thousand other such-like objects, +characteristic of the intimate intermingling of land and water which +prevails in this extraordinary country. + +[Illustration: THE DAIRY VILLAGE.] + +Every thing was, however, on so small a scale, and so scrupulously neat +and pretty, that it looked more like a toy village than one built for +the every-day residence of real men. + +After walking on for about a quarter of a mile, the commissioner said +that he would show them the interior of one of the dairy houses, where +the cheeses were made,--for the business of this town was the making of +cheeses from the milk of the cows that feed on the green polders that +lie all around them. + +"The stalls for the cows," said James, "are in the same house in which +the family lives; but the cows are not kept there in summer, and so we +shall find the stalls empty." + +So saying, James turned aside up a little paved walk which led to the +door of a very pretty looking house. He opened the door without any +ceremony, and Mr. George and Rollo went in. + +The door was near one end of the house, and it opened into a passage way +which extended back through the whole depth of it. On one side was a +row of stalls, or cribs, for the cows. On the other, were doors opening +into the rooms used for the family. A very nice looking Dutch woman, who +had apparently seen the party from her window, came out through this +side door into the passage way, to welcome them when they came. + +The stalls for the cows were all beautifully made, and they were painted +and decorated in such an extraordinary manner, that no one could have +imagined for what use they were intended. The floors for them were made +of the glazed tiles so often used in Holland, and the partitions between +them were nicely rubbed as bright as a lady's sideboard. The cribs, too, +were now, in the absence of the cows, occupied with various little +_étagères_, and sets of shelves, which were covered with fancy cups and +saucers, china images, and curiosities of all sorts,--the Dutch +housewives taking a special pride in the collection of such things. + +The row of cribs was separated from the floor of the passage way by a +sort of trench, about a foot and a half wide and ten inches deep, and +outside this trench, and also within it, at the entrances to the cribs, +were arrayed a great number of utensils employed in the work of the +dairy, such as tubs, cans, cheese presses, moulds, and other such +things. These were all beautifully made, and being mounted with brass, +which had received the highest polish by constant rubbing, they gave to +the whole aspect of the place an exceedingly gay and brilliant +appearance. + +Some of this apparatus was in use. There were tubs standing, with the +curd or whey in them, and cheeses in press or in pickle, and various +other indications that the establishment was a genuine one, and was then +in active operation. The cheeses were of the round kind, so often seen +for sale at the grocers' stores in Boston and New York. They looked like +so many big cannon balls. + +After walking down the passage way that led by the side of cribs, and +examining all these things in detail, the party returned to the door +where they had come in, and then, turning to the left, went into the +rooms of the house. The first room was the bedroom. The second was the +parlor. These rooms were both completely crowded with antique looking +furniture, among which were cabinets of Chinese ware, and ornaments of +every kind; and all was in such a brilliant condition of nicety and +polish, as made the spectacle wonderful to behold. + +The bed was in a recess, shut up by doors. When the doors were opened +the bed place looked precisely like a berth on board ship. + +After looking at all these things as long as they wished, Mr. George and +Rollo bade the woman good by, and James gave her half a guilder. The +party then withdrew. + +"Well, uncle George," said Rollo, "and what do you think of that?" + +"I think it is a very extraordinary spectacle," said Mr. George. "And it +is very curious to think how such a state of things has come about." + +"And how has it come about?" asked Rollo. + +"Why, here," replied Mr. George, "for a thousand years, for aught I +know, the people have been living from generation to generation with no +other employment than taking care of the cows that feed on the polders +around, and making the milk into cheese. That is a business which +requires neatness. Every kind of dairy business does. So that here is a +place where a current was set towards neatness a thousand years ago, and +it has been running ever since, and this is what it has come to." + +Talking in this manner of what they had seen, Mr. George and Rollo +returned to the inn, and there they found an excellent breakfast. They +were waited upon at the table by the young woman who had so many golden +ornaments in her hair; and besides the _biftek aux pommes_, and the +coffee, and the hot milk, and the nice butter, there was the half of one +of the round cheeses, such as they had seen in process of making at the +dairy. + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +CONCLUSION. + + +After finishing their breakfast, Mr. George and Rollo entered the +carriage again, and returned by the same way that they came, for some +miles towards Amsterdam, until they came to the place where the road +turned off to go to Saandam. After proceeding for some distance upon one +of the inland dikes, they came at length to the margin of the sea, and +then for several miles the road lay along the great sea dike, which here +defends the land from the ingress of the ocean. + +"Ah," said Mr. George, as soon as they entered upon this portion of the +road, "here we come to one of the great sea dikes. How glad I am." + +"So am I," said Rollo. "I wanted to see one of the sea dikes." + +"It is very much like the others," said Mr. George, "only it is much +larger." + +"Yes," said Rollo, "and see how it winds about along the shore." + +In looking forward in the direction in which Rollo pointed, the dike +could be traced for a long distance in its course, like an immense +railroad embankment, winding in and out in a most remarkable manner, in +conformity to the indentations of the shore. In one respect it differed +from a railroad embankment, namely, in being bordered and overshadowed +by avenues of immense trees, which showed how many ages ago the dike had +been built. There is not a railroad embankment in the world that has +been built long enough for such immense trees to have had time to grow. + +The carriage road lay along the top of the dike, which was very broad, +and the slopes of it, towards the water on one side, and towards the low +meadow lands on the other, were very gradual. Men were at work every +where along these slopes, cutting the second crop of grass, and making +it into hay. Where the hay was ready to be got in, the men were at work +loading it into boats that lay in the little canals that extend along +the sides of the dike at the foot of the slopes. + +Wind mills were to be seen every where, all about the horizon. As the +road approached Saandam, these mills became more and more numerous. + +"I mean to see if I can count them," said Rollo. + +"You cannot count them, I am sure," said Mr. George. + +Rollo began; but when he got up to a hundred, he gave up the undertaking +in despair. Mr. George told him that he read in the guide book that +there were four thousand wind mills in that region. + +Some of these wind mills were very small indeed; and there were two or +three which looked so "cunning," as Rollo said, that he wished very much +that he had one of them to take with him to America. + +The use of these very small wind mills was to pump up the water from +some very limited tract of land, which, for some reason or other, +happened to lie a few inches lower than the rest. + +At last, after an infinite number of turnings and windings, by means of +which every part of the surrounding country was brought in succession +into view before Mr. George and Rollo as they sat in their carriage, +they arrived at the town of Saandam. + +The town consists of two streets, one on each embankment of a great +canal. The streets are closely built up for many miles along the canal, +but the town does not extend laterally at all, on account of the ground +falling off immediately to very low polders. + +[Illustration: CABIN OF PETER THE GREAT.] + +After entering the street the commissioner left the carriage, in order +that the horses might rest, and led Mr. George and Rollo on a walk +through the prettiest part of the town. They walked about half a mile +along the canal on one side, and then, crossing by a ferry, they came +back on the other side. + +In the course of this walk they went to see the hut where Peter the +Great lived while he was in Holland engaged in studying ship building in +the ship yards of Saandam. The hut itself was old and dilapidated; but +it was covered and protected by a good, substantial building of brick, +with open arches all around, which allowed the hut to be seen, while the +roof and walls of the building protected it from the rain. The hut was +situated in a very pretty little garden. + +There were two rooms in the hut, and one of them--the one shown in the +engraving--had a very curious-looking Dutch fireplace in one corner of +it, and a ladder to go up to the loft above. The chairs were very +curious indeed; the seats being three-cornered, and the back and arms +being constructed in a very singular manner. + +The walls of the rooms were perfectly covered, in every part, with the +names of visitors, who had come from all countries to see the rooms. +Besides these, there were a great many volumes of books filled with +names. These books lay on a great table, which stood at one side of the +room. There was one of the books which was not yet full, and this one +lay open on the table, with a pen and ink near it, in order that fresh +visitors, as fast as they came, might enter their names. + +After looking at this cabin as long as they wished, and entering their +names in the book, Mr. George and Rollo left the hut and returned +through one of the main streets of the town to the place where they had +left their carriage. The carriage was soon ready for them, and they set +out to go back to Amsterdam. + +They had a delightful drive back, going as they came, on the top of the +great sea dike. On one side they could look off over a wide expanse of +water, with boats, and steamers, and ships moving to and fro in every +direction over it. On the other side they overlooked a still wider +expanse of low and level green fields, intersected every where with +canals of water and avenues of trees, and with a perfect forest of wind +mills in the horizon. + + * * * * * + +As they were riding quietly along upon this dike on the return to +Amsterdam, Rollo had the opportunity of imparting to Mr. George some +valuable information in respect to Peter the Great. + +"I am glad that I have had an opportunity to see the workshop of Peter +the Great," said Mr. George. "It is very curious indeed. But I don't +know much about Peter the Great. The first opportunity I get I mean to +read an account of his life, and I advise you to do the same." + +"I have read about him," said Rollo. "I found a book about him in a +steamboat that we came in, and I read all about his coming to Holland." + +"Then tell me about it," said Mr. George. + +"Why, you see," said Rollo, "he was at war with the Turks, and he fought +them and drove them off to the southward, until at last he came to the +Sea of Asoph. Then he could not fight them any more, unless he could get +some ships. So he made a law for all the great boyars of his kingdom, +that every one of them must build or buy him a ship. What are boyars, +uncle George?" + +"Nobles," said Mr. George. + +"I thought it must be something like that," replied Rollo. + +"The old nobility of those Russian countries are called boyars," said +Mr. George; "but I don't know why. Most of the common people are slaves +to them." + +"Well, at any rate," said Rollo, "he made a law that every one of them, +or at least all that were rich enough, should build or buy him a ship; +but they did not know how to build ships themselves, and so they were +obliged to send to Holland for ship builders. They built more and better +ships in Holland in those days than in any country in the world." + +"Yes, I suppose so," said Mr. George. + +"The boyars did not like it very well to be obliged to build these +ships," continued Rollo. "And there was another thing that they disliked +still more." + +"What was that?" asked Mr. George. + +"Why, the emperor made them send off their sons to be educated in +different foreign countries," replied Rollo. "You see, in those days +Russia was very little civilized, and Peter concluded that it would help +to introduce civilization into the country, if the sons of the principal +men went to other great cities for some years, to study sciences and +arts. So he sent some of them to Paris, and some to Berlin, and some to +Amsterdam, and some to Rome. But most of them did not like to go." + +"That's strange," said Mr. George. "I should have thought they would +have liked to go very much." + +"At least their fathers did not like to send them," said Rollo; "perhaps +on account of the expense; and some of the young men did not like to +go. There was one that was sent to Venice, in order that he might see +and learn every thing that he could there, that would be of advantage to +his own country; but he was so cross about it that when he got to Venice +he shut himself up in his house, and declared that he would not see or +learn any thing at all." + +"He was a very foolish fellow, I think," said Mr. George. + +"Yes," said Rollo, "I think he was. But I've seen boys in school act +just so. They get put out with the teacher for something or other, and +then they won't try to understand the lesson." + +"That is punishing themselves, and not the teacher," said Mr. George. +"But go on about Peter." + +"After a while," continued Rollo, "Peter concluded to make a journey +himself. His plan was to go to all the most civilized countries, and +into all the finest cities in Europe, and see what he could learn that +would be of use in his own dominions. So he fitted out a grand +expedition. He took a number of ambassadors, and generals, and great +potentates of all kinds with him. These men were dressed in splendid +uniforms, and travelled in great state, and had grand receptions in all +the great towns that they came to. But Peter himself did nothing of the +kind. He dressed plainly, like a common man, so that wherever he went +he could ramble about at liberty, and see what he wanted to see in peace +and quietness, while all the people were running after the procession of +ambassadors and grandees." + +"That was a good plan," said Mr. George. + +"An excellent plan," rejoined Rollo. "In some of the seaports that he +visited, he used to put on a sort of a pea jacket, such as the Dutch +skippers wore, and go about in that, along the wharves and docks, and +look at all the shipping. + +"But he was most interested in going to Holland," continued Rollo, "for +that was the country where they built the best ships. Besides, the first +vessel that he ever saw happened to be a Dutch vessel. I forgot to tell +you about that." + +"Yes," replied Mr. George, "tell me now." + +"Why, it was some years before this time," said Rollo,--"two or three I +believe,--that he first saw a vessel. There was a country place with a +handsome house and pleasure grounds, belonging to the royal family. I +forget what the name of it was. But that is no matter. One time, after +Peter came to the throne, he went out to this country place to spend a +few days. He found on the grounds a sort of artificial winding canal or +pond, with pretty trees on the banks of it. On this canal was a yacht, +which had been built in Holland and brought there, for the people to +sail in when they came to that palace. The yacht had not been used much, +and was lying neglected at the wharf. But Peter immediately had it put +in order, and took a sail in it, and he liked it very much indeed." + +"Was it the first vessel that he ever saw?" asked Mr. George. + +"Yes," said Rollo, "I believe it was; or at least it was the first that +he ever particularly noticed. He liked sailing in it, and then, besides, +there was one of his officers there, who had travelled in other +countries in Europe where people had ships and navies, and he told Peter +what great advantages they gained from them, not only in carrying goods +from place to place, but in transporting armies, and fighting their +enemies at sea. + +"Peter thought a great deal about this, and when he went back to Moscow, +which was then the capital, he inquired and found that there were some +people from Holland there. He asked them if they knew how to build +ships. Some of them said they did. Then he asked them if they could not +build him some small vessels, just like the Dutch ships of war. They +said they could. So he made a bargain with them, and they built him +several. + +"Do you know how many?" asked Mr. George. + +"Not exactly," replied Rollo. "There were several small vessels, and I +remember that there were four frigates, and each frigate had four guns. +I don't suppose the guns were very large." + +"Four guns is a very small armament for a frigate," said Mr. George. + +"Yes," replied Rollo, "very small indeed. But you see, Peter did not +want them for real service, but only for models, as it were." + +"And what did he do with them, when they were done?" asked Mr. George. + +"They were launched into a lake there was in that part of the country," +said Rollo, "and there the emperor used to sail about in them, and have +sham fights. + +"But all this, you must understand," continued Rollo, "took place two or +three years before Peter drove the Turks off from the southern part of +his empire, so as to get to the sea. And it was not till then that he +began to have real ships built of large size. And now, when he was going +to Holland, he of course remembered the old Dutch yacht which he had on +his pleasure grounds, and the small frigates which they had built him, +and the large ones too, which they had built for the boyars, and he felt +a great interest in going to see the ship yards. He determined that +while he was in Holland he would spend as much time as he could in +learning all about ship building. + +"It is very curious about the emperor and his company's entering +Amsterdam," continued Rollo. "When the government there heard that he +was coming, they made grand preparations to receive him. They got the +cannon all ready on the ramparts to fire salutes, and drew out the +soldiers, and all the doors and windows were crowded with spectators. +They prepared a great number of illuminations, too, and fireworks, for +the night. But just before the party arrived at Amsterdam, the emperor +slipped away in a plain dress, and left the ambassadors, and generals, +and grandees to go in by themselves. The people of Amsterdam did not +know this. They supposed that some one or other of the people dressed so +splendidly, in the procession, was Peter; and so they shouted, and waved +their flags and their handkerchiefs, and fired the cannon, and made a +great parade generally." + +"And Peter himself was not there at all?" said Mr. George. + +"No," said Rollo. "He slipped away, and came in privately with a few +merchants to accompany him. And instead of going to the great palace +which the government of Amsterdam had provided and fitted up for him, he +left that to his ambassadors, and went himself to a small house, by a +ship yard, where he could be at liberty, and go and come when he +pleased." + +"And afterwards, I suppose he went to Saandam," said Mr. George. + +"Yes, sir," replied Rollo. "Saandam was a great place for building ships +in those days. They say that while he was there, he went to work +regularly, like a ship carpenter, as if he wished to learn the trade +himself. But I don't believe he worked a great deal." + +"No," said Mr. George. "I presume he did not. He probably took the +character and dress of a workman chiefly for the purpose of making +himself more at home in the ship yards and about the wharves. Indeed, I +can't see what useful end could be gained by his learning to do work +himself. He could not expect to build ships himself when he should +return to Russia." + +"No," said Rollo. "I expect he wanted to see exactly how the ships were +built, and how the yards were managed, and he thought he could do this +better if he went among the workmen as one of their number." + +"I presume so," said Mr. George. "I am very glad you found the book, and +I am much obliged to you for all this information." + +Soon after this Mr. George and Rollo arrived safely at Amsterdam. + + * * * * * + +Rollo and Mr. George remained, after this, some days in Amsterdam; and +they were very much entertained with what they saw there in the streets, +and with the curious manners and customs of the people. + + + * * * * * + + +PUBLICATIONS OF + +BROWN, TAGGARD & CHASE, + +SUCCESSORS TO + +W. J. REYNOLDS & CO., No. 24 Cornhill, Boston. + +ROLLO'S TOUR IN EUROPE: + +BEING A NEW SERIES OF + +ROLLO BOOKS, + +BY REV. JACOB ABBOTT. + +IN SIX VOLUMES, BEAUTIFULLY ILLUSTRATED. + +_Extract from the Preface._ + +In this series of narratives we offer to the readers of the Rollo Books +a continuation of the history of our little hero, by giving them an +account of the adventures which such a boy may be expected to meet with +in making a tour of Europe. The books are intended to be books of +instruction rather than of mere amusement; and, in perusing them, the +reader may feel assured that all the information which they contain, not +only in respect to the countries visited, but to the customs, usages, +and modes of life that are described, and also in regard to the general +character of the incidents and adventures that the young travellers meet +with, is in most strict accordance with fact. The main design of the +narratives is, thus, the communication of useful knowledge; and +everything which they contain, except what is strictly personal, in +relation to the actors in the story, may be depended upon as exactly and +scrupulously true. + +_Notices of the Press._ + +We know of no books that are so eagerly sought for by good boys and +girls as Mr. Abbott's new series of "Rollo Books."--_Hartford Christian +Secretary._ + +Mr. Abbott has a singularly successful faculty of conveying instruction +with entertainment, and of interesting all classes of readers, but more +particularly the young. All will say that the more we have of such +useful and pleasant volumes the better.--_Salem Register._ + +They give excellent lessons in Geography and History, in the most +pleasing forms. They are beautifully printed, and illustrated with fine +engravings.--_New Haven Palladium._ + +There is no wonder that the "Rollo Books" are so extremely popular, for +we doubt if many of us "children of a larger growth" can escape their +fascination.--_Salem Observer._ + +A careful perusal of the volume under notice (Switzerland) will give the +young reader not only as good a geographical knowledge of the country it +describes as would be obtained at a term at school, but will acquaint +him with the habits, manners, and characteristics of the people of +Switzerland.--_American Citizen_. + +No living man is his equal in story-telling for the young, and the book +will find its way into thousands of homes.--_Hartford Republican._ + +They contain a great deal of useful information, conveyed in a most +pleasing and interesting manner.--_Boston Post._ + +Written by one who has made the tour through which he carries his young +hero, and who, from long experience, knows how to please and instruct +his young readers, these volumes possess just the qualities to attract +those for whom they are intended.--_Norfolk Co. Journal._ + +The author has admirably combined the pleasing with the instructive, so +that while the youthful reader is charmed by the narrative, he also +gains valuable information with regard to those far-off places famed in +story and song.--_Boston Olive Branch._ + +A correspondent of the New York _National Magazine_ says;--"The volumes +are beautifully illustrated, and written in the charming and instructive +style of the author. We saw one of our New England governors, lately +returned from a European tour, quite absorbed in the volume upon Paris, +while travelling in a railway car, a short time since." + + * * * * * + +CUSHING'S MANUAL. + +Price 38 cents. + +NOTICES OF A NEW WORK ON PARLIAMENTARY RULES, + +By LUTHER S. CUSHING, + +TWELVE YEARS CLERK OF THE MASSACHUSETTS HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES. + +_From S. H. Walley, late Speaker of the Massachusetts House of +Representatives._ + +I have taken great pleasure in examining the pages of this work, and do +not hesitate to express most fully my approbation of its plan and +execution. + +On two or three questions of minor importance, I might come to different +conclusions from the author;--but, inasmuch as he has devoted much time +to a careful research into the subject of parliamentary rules and +practice, I am free to admit, that I should feel great distrust in any +opinions which I have held, even on these questions, where they differ +from those expressed by Judge Cushing, without very careful +reëxamination and study. + +This Manual is much needed. There is no work, in this country, which is +adapted near as well, in my judgment, to assist those who are called +upon to preside in public assemblies, to discharge their duties +acceptably and profitably to the community. + +I sincerely hope and believe that this publication will receive the +countenance and approbation to which it seems to me so justly entitled. + + * * * * * + +_From the Law Reporter, Edited by Peleg W. Chandler, Esq._ + +Hon. Luther S. Cushing has prepared for the press a new Manual of +Parliamentary Practice. Having examined the manuscript of this work with +considerable care, we take occasion to say, that it will be a valuable +accession to the libraries of those who are called upon to preside in +deliberative assemblies; and we believe the necessity of such a work as +this has been very generally felt in our country where almost every +citizen is occasionally called upon to exercise the duties of a +presiding officer. The work is founded upon the well-established rules +and customs of the British Parliament, and Mr. Cushing divests himself +of all local usages prevailing in different parts of this country; +maintaining in the outset, that no assembly can ever be subject to any +other rules than those which are of general application, or which it +specially adopts for its own government; and denying explicitly that the +rules adopted and practised upon by a legislative assembly thereby +acquire the character of general laws. + + +PUBLISHED BY + +BROWN, TAGGARD & CHASE, + +(SUCCESSORS TO W. J. REYNOLDS & CO.,) + +NO. 24 CORNHILL + +FOR SALE BY ALL BOOKSELLERS. + + * * * * * + +THE COLUMBIAN GLEE BOOK. + +OR, MUSIC FOR THE MILLION. + +IN THREE PARTS. + +_Part I.--Comprising the largest number of choice Glees, Quartets, +Trios, Songs, Opera Choruses, &c., ever before published in one +Collection._ + +_Part II.--Consisting of Sacred Anthems, Choruses, Quartets, &c., for +Select Societies and Concerts._ + +_Part III.--Containing most of the old popular Continental Psalm Tunes._ + +Thus making the most complete collection, in all its features, ever +before published. + +By I. B. WOODBURY, author of the "Dulcimer," "The Cythara," &c. &c. + +_Extract from the Preface._ + +Here may be found Glees, Quartets, Trios and Songs, suited to every +occasion. If merry, here are pieces that will add to merriment; if sad, +harmonies that will soothe sadness. If longing for home fill the mind, +the dear scenes that cluster there are painted in many a song. Requiems +to the loved departed are also here. Indeed, almost every scene to which +the chequered life of man is subject is here made the refrain of song. +For the Sabbath eve, when + + "Softly fades the twilight ray + Of the holy Sabbath day," + +and when music is particularly acceptable, the old tunes our fathers +sang may be found in Part III. Part II. is somewhat more elaborate, and +adapted to Sacred Concerts. That the book may tend to make man happier +and better is the sincere desire of the author. + + * * * * * + +THE AMERICAN VOCALIST. + +A SELECTION OF TUNES, ANTHEMS, SENTENCES AND HYMNS, + +_Old and new. Designed for the Church, the Vestry, or the Parlor._ + +Adapted to every variety of metre in common use, and appropriate to +every occasion where God is worshipped and men are blessed. 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WOODBURY. + +Author of the "Dulcimer," of which more than 140,000 copies have been +sold. + +Mr. Woodbury's long residence in Europe, and his intimate acquaintance +with the music and musical people of every section of our country, their +wants and predilections, have imparted to him advantages hardly +vouchsafed to any other man. To these qualifications he brings the vigor +and elasticity of early manhood, and, after years of untiring and +energetic devotion to this one subject, he has produced a volume of +Sacred Music, rich in melody, chaste and harmonious in composition, +simple in arrangement, and thoroughly adapted to the wants of his own +country. + + +B. T. & C. have for sale _all the Music Books_ published. Traders, +Teachers, and others supplied at the lowest cash price. + + * * * * * + +COLBURN'S FIRST LESSONS. Intellectual Arithmetic, upon the Inductive +Method of Instruction. By Warren Colburn. + +"Colburn's First Lessons, the only faultiest school book that we have, +has made a great change in the mode of teaching Arithmetic, and is +destined to make a still greater. It should be made the basis of +instruction in this department."--_From the School and Schoolmaster._ + +"Warren Colburn's First Lessons has had many imitators, but no +equals."--_From the Massachusetts Common School Journal for April, +1852._ + +"I have always considered Colburn's First Lessons in Arithmetic the most +valuable school book that has made its appearance in this country. +Constant use of it for more than twelve years has entirely confirmed my +opinion.--_George B. Emerson._ + +"I have no hesitation in saying that this book is not only the best in +this country, but, so far as my information extends, _the best in the +world_."--_Thomas Sherwin, Esq., of the Boston High School._ + + * * * * * + +WORCESTER'S HISTORY. Elements of History, Ancient and Modern. By J. E. +WORCESTER, LL.D. A new edition, brought down to the Present Time, and +printed from entirely new stereotype plates. 438 pp. + +Worcester's History has for many years occupied a high place among text +books. The new edition, being printed from entirely new stereotype +plates, is a great improvement upon former editions. Applicants for +admission into the Freshman class at Harvard College are examined in +this book. + + * * * * * + +SMELLIE'S PHILOSOPHY. The Philosophy of Natural History. By WM. SMELLIE. +With an Introduction and Addition by Dr. John Ware, of Cambridge, Mass. +12mo, 360 pp. + +Smellie's Philosophy is a valuable book for High Schools and Academies, +and is used extensively in every part of the country. + + * * * * * + +NORTHEND'S BOOK KEEPING. The Common School Book Keeping; being a simple +and practical system, by Single Entry. Designed for the use of Public +Schools, and adapted to the wants of Mechanics, Farmers, and Retail +Merchants; containing various forms of Notes, Receipts, Orders, Bills, +and other useful matter; in two books, a Day-book and Ledger. By Charles +Northend, author of "National Writing Book," "National Speaker," etc. + +In preparing this system the author has endeavored to make a plain, +practical, and _economical_ work, suited to the wants of common schools +and retail merchants in every department of business. + + * * * * * + +CUSHING'S MANUAL. Rules of Proceeding and Debate in Deliberative +Assemblies. By Luther S. Cushing, for twelve years Clerk of +Massachusetts House of Representatives. + + * * * * * + +BENTLEY'S PICTORIAL PRIMER. For beginners. One of the most beautiful +school books published. + +Copies of all the above book will be sent to school committees, for +examination, on application. + + * * * * * + +MY UNCLE TOBY'S LIBRARY, + +By FRANCIS FORRESTER, Esq., + +Consists of TWELVE VOLUMES, elegantly bound, and Illustrated with +upwards of SIXTY BEAUTIFUL ENGRAVINGS. + + 1. _Arthur Ellerslie_, or The Brave Boy. + 2. _Redbrook_, or Who'll buy my Watercresses? + 3. _Minnie Brown_, or The Gentle Girl. + 4. _Ralph Ratler_, or The Mischief Maker. + 5. _Arthur's Temptation_, or The Lost Goblet. + 6. _Aunt Amy_, or How Minnie Brown Learned to be a Sunbeam. + 7. _The Runaway_, or Punishment of Pride. + 8. _Fretful Lillia_, or The Girl who was compared to a Sting-nettle. + 9. _Minnie's Pic-nic_, or a Day in the Woods. + 10. _Cousin Nelly_, or The Pleasant Visit. + 11. _Minnie's Playroom_, or how to Play Calisthenica. + 12. _Arthur's Triumph_, or Goodness Rewarded. + +The books are so written that, while each number is a complete story in +itself, there is, nevertheless, a connection between the whole series. + + * * * * * + +In addition to their own publications, B. T. & C. are supplied with a +large stock of School Books, Music Books, and Stationery, which they +offer to purchasers _at lowest prices_. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Rollo in Holland, by Jacob Abbott + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ROLLO IN HOLLAND *** + +***** This file should be named 22972-8.txt or 22972-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/2/9/7/22972/ + +Produced by D. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Rollo in Holland + +Author: Jacob Abbott + +Release Date: October 12, 2007 [EBook #22972] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ROLLO IN HOLLAND *** + + + + +Produced by D. Alexander, Janet Blenkinship and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive) + + + + + + +</pre> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="frontis" id="frontis"></a> +<img src="images/i003.jpg" width="600" height="370" alt="" title="" /> +<span class="caption">ROLLO IN HOLLAND.</span> +</div> + + +<h1>ROLLO IN HOLLAND,<br /><br /></h1> + +<h4>BY<br /><br /></h4> + +<h2>JACOB ABBOTT.<br /><br /></h2> + +<p class="center">BOSTON: BROWN, TAGGARD & CHASE,<br /> + +<span class="smcap">Successors to</span> W. J. <span class="smcap">Reynolds & Co</span>., 25 & 29 CORNHILL.<br /> + +1857.<br /><br /> +Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1857, by<br /> +<span class="smcap">Jacob Abbott</span>,<br /><br /> +In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of +Massachusetts.<br /><br /> +STEREOTYPED AT THE<br /> +BOSTON STEREOTYPE FOUNDRY. Damrell & Moore, Printers, Boston.</p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 386px;"> +<img src="images/i004.jpg" width="386" height="600" alt="" title="ROLLO'S TOUR IN EUROPE." /> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2> + + + + + + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" width="75%" cellspacing="0" summary="CONTENTS"> +<tr><td align='right'> </td><th align='left'><span style="margin-left: 1em;">CHAPTER</span></th><th align='right'>PAGE</th></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>I.</td><td align='left'>—<span class="smcap">Preparations</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_11'><b>11</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>II.</td><td align='left'>—<span class="smcap">A Bad Travelling Companion</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_26'><b>26</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>III.</td><td align='left'>—<span class="smcap">The Mail Steamer</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_44'><b>44</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>IV.</td><td align='left'>—<span class="smcap">Entering Holland</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_67'><b>67</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>V.</td><td align='left'>—<span class="smcap">Walks about Rotterdam</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_86'><b>86</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>VI.</td><td align='left'>—<span class="smcap">Doing the Hague</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_109'><b>109</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>VII.</td><td align='left'>—<span class="smcap">Correspondence</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_138'><b>138</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>VIII.</td><td align='left'>—<span class="smcap">The Commissioner</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_160'><b>160</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>IX.</td><td align='left'>—<span class="smcap">The Great Canal</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_169'><b>169</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>X.</td><td align='left'>—<span class="smcap">The Dairy Village</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_186'><b>186</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>XI.</td><td align='left'>—<span class="smcap">Conclusion</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_200'><b>200</b></a></td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h2>ENGRAVINGS.</h2> + + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" width="75%" cellspacing="0" summary="ENGRAVINGS"> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Rollo in Holland</span>.</td><td align='right'><a href='#frontis'><b>(Frontispiece.)</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">View in Holland</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_10'><b>10</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Hansom Cab</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_33'><b>33</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Landing from the Mail Boat</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_57'><b>57</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Dort</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_83'><b>83</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Ferry Boat</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_101'><b>101</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Dinner</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_124'><b>124</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Boat Family</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_154'><b>154</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Trekschuyt</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_181'><b>181</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Dairy Village</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_193'><b>193</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Cabin of Peter the Great</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_204'><b>204</b></a></td></tr> +</table></div> + + + +<p><br /><br /></p> +<div class="centerbox bbox"> + +<h4>ROLLO'S TOUR IN EUROPE.</h4> +<p class="center"> +ORDER OF THE VOLUMES.<br /> +<br /> +ROLLO ON THE ATLANTIC.<br /> +ROLLO IN PARIS.<br /> +ROLLO IN SWITZERLAND.<br /> +ROLLO IN LONDON.<br /> +ROLLO ON THE RHINE.<br /> +ROLLO IN SCOTLAND.<br /> +ROLLO IN GENEVA.<br /> +ROLLO IN HOLLAND.<br /> +ROLLO IN NAPLES.<br /> +ROLLO IN ROME. +</p></div> + +<p><br /><br /></p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i008.jpg" width="600" height="370" alt="" title="" /> +<span class="caption">VIEW IN HOLLAND.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><br /><br /><a name="ROLLO_IN_HOLLAND" id="ROLLO_IN_HOLLAND"></a>ROLLO IN HOLLAND.<br /><br /></h2> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Chapter_I" id="Chapter_I"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter I.</span></h2> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Preparations</span>.</h3> + + +<p>Holland is one of the most remarkable countries on the globe. The +peculiarities which make it remarkable arise from the fact that it is +almost perfectly level throughout, and it lies so low. A very large +portion of it, in fact, lies below the level of the sea, the waters +being kept out, as every body knows, by immense dikes that have stood +for ages.</p> + +<p>These dikes are so immense, and they are so concealed by the houses, and +trees, and mills, and even villages that cover and disguise them, that +when the traveller first sees them he can hardly believe that they are +dikes. Some of them are several hundred feet wide, and have a good broad +public road upon the top, with a canal perhaps by the side of it, and +avenues of trees, and road-side<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> inns, and immense wind mills on the +other hand. When riding or walking along upon such a dike on one side, +down a long slope, they have a glimpse of water between the trees. On +the other, at an equal distance you see a green expanse of country, with +gardens, orchards, fields of corn and grain, and scattered farm houses +extending far and wide. At first you do not perceive that this beautiful +country that you see spreading in every direction on one side of the +road is below the level of the water that you see on the other side; but +on a careful comparison you find that it is so. When the tide is high +the difference is very great, and were it not for the dikes the people +would be inundated.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p> + + +<p>Indeed, the dikes alone would not prevent the country from being +inundated; for it is not possible to make them perfectly tight, and even +if it were so, the soil beneath them is more or less pervious to water, +and thus the water of the sea and of the rivers would slowly press its +way through the lower strata, and oozing up into the land beyond, would +soon make it all a swamp.</p> + +<p>Then, besides the interpercolation from the soil, there is the rain. In +upland countries, the surplus water that falls in rain flows off in +brooks and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> rivers to the sea; but in land that is below the level of +the sea, there can be no natural flow of either brooks or rivers. The +rain water, therefore, that falls on this low land would remain there +stagnant, except the comparatively small portion of it that would be +evaporated by the sun and wind.</p> + +<p>Thus you see, that if the people of Holland were to rely on the dikes +alone to keep the land dry, the country would become in a very short +time one immense morass.</p> + +<p>To prevent this result it is necessary to adopt some plan to raise the +water, as fast as it accumulates in the low grounds, and convey it away. +This is done by pumps and other such hydraulic engines, and these are +worked in general by wind mills.</p> + +<p>They might be worked by steam engines; but steam engines are much more +expensive than wind mills. It not only costs much more to make them, but +the expense of working them from day to day is very great, on account of +the fuel which they require. The necessary attendance on a steam engine, +too, is very expensive. There must be engineers, with high pay, to watch +the engine and to keep it always in order, and firemen to feed the +fires, and ashmen to carry away the ashes and cinders. Whereas a wind +mill takes care of itself.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span></p> + +<p>The wind makes the wind mills go, and the wind costs nothing. It is +true, that the head of the mill must be changed from time to time, so as +to present the sails always in proper direction to the wind. But even +this is done by the wind itself. There is a contrivance by which the +mill is made to turn itself so as to face always in the right direction +towards the wind; and not only so, but the mill is sometimes so +constructed that if the wind blows too hard, it takes in a part of the +sails by its own spontaneous action, and thus diminishes the strain +which might otherwise be injurious to the machinery.</p> + +<p>Now, since the advantages of wind mills are so great over steam engines, +in respect especially to cheapness, perhaps you will ask why steam is +employed at all to turn machinery, instead of always using the wind. The +reason is, because the wind is so unsteady. Some days a wind mill will +work, and some days it will lie still; and thus in regard to the time +when it will do what is required of it, no reliance can be placed upon +it. This is of very little consequence in the work of pumping up water +from the sunken country in Holland; for, if for several days the mills +should not do their work, no great harm would come of it, since the +amount of water which would accumulate in that time would not do any +harm. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> ground might become more wet, and the canals and reservoirs +get full,—just as brooks and rivers do on any upland country after a +long rain. But then, after the calm was over and the wind began to blow +again, the mills would all go industriously to work, and the surplus +water would soon be pumped up, and discharged over the dikes into the +sea again.</p> + +<p>Thus the irregularity in the action of the wind mills in doing such work +as this, is of comparatively little consequence.</p> + +<p>But in the case of some other kinds of work,—as for example the driving +of a cotton mill, or any other great manufactory in which a large number +of persons are employed,—it would be of the greatest possible +consequence; for when a calm time came, and the wind mill would not +work, all the hands would be thrown out of employ. They might sometimes +remain idle thus a number of days at a time, at a great expense to their +employers, or else at a great loss to themselves. Sometimes, for +example, there might be a fine breeze in the morning, and all the hands +would go to the mill and begin their work. In an hour the breeze might +entirely die away, and the spinners and weavers would all find their +jennies and looms going slower and slower, and finally stopping +altogether. And then, perhaps,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> two hours afterwards, when they had all +given up the day's work and gone away to their respective homes, the +breeze would spring up again, and the wind mill would go to work more +industriously than ever.</p> + +<p>This would not answer at all for a cotton mill, but it does very well +for pumping up water from a great reservoir into which drains and canals +discharge themselves to keep a country dry.</p> + +<p>And this reminds me of one great advantage which the people of Holland +enjoy on account of the low and level condition of their country; and +that is, it is extremely easy to make canals there. There are not only +no mountains or rocks in the way to impede the digging of them, but, +what is perhaps a still more important advantage, there is no difficulty +in filling them with water. In other countries, when a canal is to be +made, the very first question is, How is it to be filled? For this +purpose the engineer explores the whole country through which the canal +is to pass, to find rivers and streams that he can turn into it, when +the bed of it shall have been excavated; and sometimes he has to bring +these supplies of water for a great distance in artificial channels, +which often cross valleys by means of great aqueducts built up to hold +them. Sometimes a brook<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> is in this way brought across a river,—the +river itself not being high enough to feed the canal.</p> + +<p>The people of Holland have no such difficulties as these to encounter in +their canals. The whole country being so nearly on a level with the sea, +they have nothing to do, when they wish for a canal, but to extend it in +some part to the sea shore, and then open a sluice way and let the water +in.</p> + +<p>It is true that sometimes they have to provide means to prevent the +ingress of too much water; but this is very easily done.</p> + +<p>It is thus so easy to make canals in Holland, that the people have been +making them for hundreds of years, until now almost the whole country is +intersected every where with canals, as other countries are with roads. +Almost all the traffic, and, until lately, almost all the travel of the +country, has been upon the canals. There are private canals, too, as +well as public. A farmer brings home his hay and grain from his fields +by water, and when he buys a new piece of land he makes a canal to it, +as a Vermont farmer would make a road to a new pasture or wood lot that +he had been buying.</p> + +<p>Rollo wished very much to see all these things—but there was one +question which it puzzled him very much to decide, and that was whether<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> +he would rather go to Holland in the summer or in the winter.</p> + +<p>"I am not certain," said he to his mother one day, "whether it would not +be better for me to go in the winter."</p> + +<p>"It is very cold there in the winter," said his mother; "so I am told."</p> + +<p>"That is the very thing," said Rollo. "They have such excellent skating +on the canals. I want to see the boats go on the canals, and I want to +see the skating, and I don't know which I want to see most."</p> + +<p>"Yes," said his mother, "I recollect to have often seen pictures of +skating on the Dutch canals."</p> + +<p>"And I read, when I was a boy," continued Rollo, "that the women skate +to market in Holland."</p> + +<p>Rollo here observed that his mother was endeavoring to suppress a smile. +She seemed to try very hard, but she could not succeed in keeping +perfectly sober.</p> + +<p>"What are you laughing at, mother?" asked Rollo.</p> + +<p>Here Mrs. Holiday could no longer restrain herself, but laughed +outright.</p> + +<p>"Is it about the Dutch women skating to market?" asked Rollo.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span></p> + +<p>"I think they must look quite funny, at any rate," said Mrs. Holiday.</p> + +<p>What Mrs. Holiday was really laughing at was to hear Rollo talk about +"when he was a boy." But the fact was, that Rollo had now travelled +about so much, and taken care of himself in so many exigencies, that he +began to feel quite like a man. And indeed I do not think it at all +surprising that he felt so.</p> + +<p>"Which would you do, mother," said Rollo, "if you were I? Would you +rather go in the summer or in the winter?"</p> + +<p>"I would ask uncle George," said Mrs. Holiday.</p> + +<p>So Rollo went to find his uncle George.</p> + +<p>Rollo was at this time at Morley's Hotel, in London, and he expected to +find his uncle George in what is called the coffee room. The coffee room +in Morley's Hotel is a very pleasant place. It fronts on one side upon a +very busy and brilliant street, and on another upon a large open square, +adorned with monuments and fountains. On the side towards the square is +a bay window, and near this bay window were two or three small tables, +with gentlemen sitting at them, engaged in writing. There were other +tables along the sides of the room and at the other windows, where +gentlemen were taking breakfast. Mr.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> George was at one of the tables +near the bay window, and was busy writing.</p> + +<p>Rollo went to the place, and standing by Mr. George's side, he said in +an under tone,—</p> + +<p>"Uncle George."</p> + +<p>Every body speaks in an under tone in an English coffee room. They do +this in order not to interrupt the conversation, or the reading, or the +writing of other gentlemen that may be in the room.</p> + +<p>"Wait a moment," said Mr. George, "till I finish this letter."</p> + +<p>So Rollo turned to the bay window and looked out, in order to amuse +himself with what he might observe in the street, till his uncle George +should be ready to talk with him.</p> + +<p>He saw the fountains in the square, and a great many children playing +about the basins. He saw a poor boy at a crossing brushing the pavement +industriously with an old broom, and then holding out his hand to the +people passing by, in hopes that some of them would give him a +halfpenny. He saw a policeman walking slowly up and down on the +sidewalk, wearing a glazed hat, and a uniform of blue broadcloth, with +his letter and number embroidered on the collar. He saw an elegant +carriage drive by, with a postilion riding upon one of the horses, and +two footmen in very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> splendid liveries behind. There was a lady in the +carriage, but she appeared old, and though she was splendidly dressed, +her face was very plain.</p> + +<p>"I wonder," said Rollo to himself, "how much she would give of her +riches and finery if she could be as young and as pretty as my cousin +Lucy."</p> + +<p>"Now, Rollo," said Mr. George, interrupting Rollo's reflections, "what +is the question?"</p> + +<p>"Why, I want to know," said Rollo, "whether you think we had better go +to Holland in the winter or in the summer."</p> + +<p>"Is it left to you to decide?" asked Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Why, no," said Rollo, "not exactly. But mother asked me to consider +which I thought was best, and so I want to know your opinion."</p> + +<p>"Very well," said Mr. George, "go on and argue the case. After I have +heard it argued I will decide."</p> + +<p>Rollo then proceeded to explain to his uncle the advantages, +respectively, of going in the summer and in the winter. After hearing +him, Mr. George thought it would be decidedly better to go in the +summer.</p> + +<p>"You see," said he, "that the only advantage of going in the winter is +to see the skating.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> That is very important, I know. I should like to +see the Dutch women skating to market myself, very much. But then, in +the winter you could see very little of the canals, and the wind mills, +and all the other hydraulic operations of the country. Every thing would +be frozen up solid."</p> + +<p>"Father says that he can't go now very well," continued Rollo, "but that +I may go with you if you would like to go."</p> + +<p>Mr. George was just in the act of sealing his letter as Rollo spoke +these words; but he paused in the operation, holding the stick of +sealing wax in one hand and the letter in the other, as if he was +reflecting on what Rollo had said.</p> + +<p>"If we only had some one else to go with us," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Should not we two be enough?" asked Rollo.</p> + +<p>"Why, you see," said Mr. George, "when we get into Holland we shall not +understand one word of the language."</p> + +<p>"What language do they speak?" asked Rollo.</p> + +<p>"Dutch," said Mr. George, "and I do not know any Dutch."</p> + +<p>"Not a word?" asked Rollo.</p> + +<p>"No," said Mr. George, "not a word. Ah, yes! I know one word. I know +that <i>dampschiff</i> means steamboat. <i>Damp</i>, I suppose, means steam."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span></p> + +<p>Then Rollo laughed outright. Dampskiff, he said, was the funniest name +for steamboat that he ever heard.</p> + +<p>"Now, when we don't know a word of the language," added Mr. George, "we +cannot have any communication with the people of the country, but shall +be confined entirely to each other. Now, do you think that you could get +along with having nobody but me to talk to you for a whole fortnight?"</p> + +<p>"Yes, indeed!" said Rollo. "But then, uncle George," he continued, "how +are you going to get along at the hotels without knowing how to speak to +the people at all?"</p> + +<p>"By signs and gestures," said Mr. George, laughing. "Could not you make +a sign for something to eat?"</p> + +<p>"O, yes," said Rollo; and he immediately began to make believe eat, +moving his hands as if he had a knife and fork in them.</p> + +<p>"And what sign would you make for going to bed?" asked Mr. George.</p> + +<p>Here Rollo laid his head down to one side, and placed his hand under it, +as if it were a pillow, and then shut his eyes.</p> + +<p>"That is the sign for going to bed," said Rollo. "A deaf and dumb boy +taught it to me."</p> + +<p>"I wish he had taught you some more signs,"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> said Mr. George. "Or I wish +we had a deaf and dumb boy here to go with us. Deaf and dumb people can +get along excellently well where they do not understand the language, +because they know how to make so many signs."</p> + +<p>"O, we can make up the signs as we go along," said Rollo.</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mr. George. "I don't think that we shall have any great +difficulty about that. But then it would be pleasanter to go in a little +larger party. Two people are apt to get tired of each other, when there +is nobody else that they can speak a single word to for a whole +fortnight. I don't think that I should get tired of you. What I am +afraid of is, that you would get tired of me."</p> + +<p>There was a lurking smile on Mr. George's face as he said this.</p> + +<p>"O, uncle George!" said Rollo, "that is only your politeness. But then +if you really think that we ought to have some more company, perhaps the +Parkmans are going to Holland, and we might go with them."</p> + +<p>"I would not make a journey with the Parkmans," said Mr. George, "if +they would pay all my expenses, and give me five sovereigns a day."</p> + +<p>"Why, uncle George!" exclaimed Rollo; "I thought you liked Mr. Parkman +very much."</p> + +<p>"So I do," said Mr. George. "It is his wife that I would not go with."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span></p> + +<p>"O, uncle George!" exclaimed Rollo again.</p> + +<p>Rollo was very much surprised at hearing this declaration; and it was +very natural that he should be surprised, for Mrs. Parkman was a young +and beautiful lady, and she was very kindhearted and very amiable in +her disposition. Mr. Parkman, too, was very young. He had been one of +Mr. George's college classmates. He had been married only a short time +before he left America, and he was now making his bridal tour.</p> + +<p>Mr. George thought that Mrs. Parkman was very beautiful and very +intelligent, but he considered her a very uncomfortable travelling +companion. I think he judged her somewhat too harshly. But this was one +of Mr. George's faults. He did not like the ladies very much, and the +faults which he observed in them, from time to time, he was prone to +condemn much too harshly.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i023.jpg" width="600" height="334" alt="" title="chapter endpiece" /> +</div> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Chapter_II" id="Chapter_II"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter II.</span></h2> + +<h3><span class="smcap">A Bad Travelling Companion.</span></h3> + + +<p>The reason why Mr. George did not like his friend Mr. Parkman's young +wife was not because of any want of natural attractiveness in her +person, or of amiableness in her disposition,—for she was beautiful, +accomplished, and kindhearted. But for all this, from a want of +consideration not uncommon among young ladies who are not much +experienced in the world, she was a very uncomfortable travelling +companion.</p> + +<p>It is the duty of a gentleman who has a lady under his charge, in making +a journey, to consult her wishes, and to conform to them so far as it is +possible, in determining where to go, and in making all the general +arrangements of the journey. But when these points are decided upon, +every thing in respect to the practical carrying into effect of the +plans thus formed should be left to the gentleman, as the executive +officer of the party; just as in respect to affairs relating to +housekeeping, or any thing else relating to a lady's de<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span>partment, the +lady should be left free to act according to her own judgment and taste +in arranging details, while in the general plans she conforms to the +wishes of her husband. For a lady, when travelling, to be continually +making suggestions and proposals about the baggage or the conveyances, +and expressing dissatisfaction, or wish for changes in this, that, or +the other, is as much a violation of propriety as it would be for the +gentleman to go into the kitchen, and there propose petty changes in +respect to the mode of cooking the dinner—or to stand by his wife at +her work table, and wish to have her thread changed from this place to +that—or to have some different stitch to be used in making a seam. A +lady very naturally feels disturbed if she finds that her husband does +not have confidence enough in her to trust her with such details.</p> + +<p>"I will make or mend for you whatever you may desire," she might say, +"and I will get for your dinner any thing that you ask for; but in the +way of doing it you ought to leave every thing to my direction. It is +better to let me have my own way, even if your way is better than mine. +For in matters of direction there ought always to be only one head, even +if it is not a very good one."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span></p> + +<p>And in the same manner a gentleman might say when travelling with a +lady,—</p> + +<p>"I will arrange the journey to suit your wishes as far as is +practicable, and will go at such times and by such conveyances as you +may desire. I will also, at all the places where we stop, take you to +visit such objects of interest and curiosity as you wish to see. But +then when it comes to the details of the arrangements to be made,—the +orders to servants and commissioners, the determination of the times for +setting out, and the bargains to be made with coachmen and +innkeepers,—it is best to leave all those things to me; for it always +makes confusion to have two persons give directions at the same time."</p> + +<p>To say this would be right in both cases,—there must always be <i>one</i> to +command. A great many families are kept in continual confusion by there +being two or more ladies who consider themselves more or less at the +head of it—as, for instance, a wife and a sister, or two sisters and a +mother. Napoleon used to say that <i>one</i> bad general was better than +<i>two</i> good ones; so important is it in war to have unity of command. It +is not much less important in social life.</p> + +<p>Mrs. Parkman did not understand this principle. Mr. George had seen an +example of her mode of management a day or two before, in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> taking a walk +with her and her husband in London. They were going to see the tunnel +under the Thames, which was three or four miles down the river from +Morley's Hotel, where they were all lodging.</p> + +<p>"Which way would you like to go?" asked Mr. Parkman.</p> + +<p>"Is there more than one way?" asked his wife.</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mr. Parkman, "we can take a Hansom cab, and drive down +through the streets, or we can walk down to the river side, and there +take a boat. The boats are a great deal the cheapest, and the most +amusing; but the cab will be the most easy and comfortable, and the most +genteel. We shall have to walk nearly half a mile before we get to the +landing of the boats."</p> + +<p>"Is there much difference in the price?" asked Mrs. Parkman.</p> + +<p>"Not enough to be of any consequence," replied her husband. "It will +make a difference of about one and a half crown; for by the boats it +would be only two or three pence, while by the cab it will be as many +shillings. But that is of no consequence. We will go whichever way you +think you would enjoy the most."</p> + +<p>"You may decide for me," said Mrs. Parkman. "I'll leave it entirely to +you. It makes no difference to me."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Then, on the whole, I think we will try the boat," said Mr. Parkman; +"it will be so much more amusing, and we shall see so much more of +London life. Besides, we shall often read and hear about the steamers on +the Thames when we return to America, and it will be well for us to have +made one voyage in them. And, Mr. George, will you go with us?"</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>So they all left the hotel together, and commenced their walk towards +the bridge where the nearest landing stage for the Thames boats lay.</p> + +<p>They had not gone but a very short distance before Mrs. Parkman began to +hang rather heavily upon her husband's arm, and asked him whether it was +much farther that they would have to walk.</p> + +<p>"O, yes," said Mr. Parkman. "I told you that we should have to walk +about half a mile."</p> + +<p>"Then we shall get all tired out," said his wife, "and we want our +strength for walking through the tunnel. It does not seem to be worth +while to take all this trouble just to save half a crown."</p> + +<p>Mr. Parkman, though he had only been married a little more than a month, +felt something like a sense of indignation rising in his breast, that +his wife should attribute to him such a motive for choosing the river, +after what he had said<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> on the subject. But he suppressed the feeling, +and only replied quietly,—</p> + +<p>"O, let us take a cab then, by all means. I hope you don't suppose that +I was going to take you by the boat to save any money."</p> + +<p>"I thought you said that you would save half a crown," rejoined his +wife.</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mr. Parkman, "I did, it is true."</p> + +<p>Mr. Parkman was too proud to defend himself from such an imputation, +supported by such reasoning as this; so he only said, "We will go by a +cab. We will take a cab at the next stand."</p> + +<p>Mr. George instantly perceived that by this change in the plan, he was +made one too many for the party, since only two can ride conveniently in +a Hansom cab.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> So he said at once, that he would adhere to the +original plan, and go by water.</p> + + + +<p>"But, first," said he, "I will go with you to the stand, and see you +safe in a cab."</p> + +<p>So they turned into another street, and presently they came to a stand. +There was a long row<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> of cabs there, of various kinds, all waiting to be +employed. Among them were several Hansoms.</p> + +<p>Mr. Parkman looked along the line to select one that had a good horse. +The distance was considerable that they had to go, and besides Mr. +Parkman knew that his wife liked always to go fast. So when he had +selected the best looking horse, he made a signal to the driver. The +driver immediately left the stand, and drove over to the sidewalk where +Mr. Parkman and his party were waiting.</p> + +<p>Mr. Parkman immediately opened the door of the cab to allow his wife to +go in; but she, instead of entering, began to look scrutinizingly into +it, and hung back.</p> + +<p>"Is this a nice cab?" said she. "It seems to me that I have seen nicer +cabs than this.</p> + +<p>"Let us look," she added, "and see if there is not a better one +somewhere along the line."</p> + +<p>The cabman, looking down from his exalted seat behind the vehicle, said +that there was not a nicer cab than his in London.</p> + +<p>"O, of course," said Mrs. Parkman. "They always say that. But <i>I</i> can +find a nicer one, I'm sure, somewhere in the line."</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span><br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span></p> +<p>So saying she began to move on. Mr. Parkman gave the cabman a silver +sixpence—which is equal to a New York shilling—to compensate<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> him +for having been called off from his station, and then followed his wife +across the street to the side where the cabs were standing. Mrs. Parkman +led the way all down the line, examining each hack as she passed it; but +she did not find any one that looked as well as the first.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i031.jpg" width="600" height="531" alt="" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE HANSOM CAB.</span> +</div> + + +<p>"After all," said she, "we might as well go back and take the first +one." So she turned and began to retrace her steps—the two gentlemen +accompanying her. But when they got back they found that the one which +Mr. Parkman had first selected was gone. It had been taken by another +customer.</p> + +<p>Mr. George was now entirely out of patience; but he controlled himself +sufficiently to suppress all outward manifestation of it, only saying +that he believed he would not wait any longer.</p> + +<p>"I will go down to the river," said he, "and take a boat, and when you +get a carriage you can go by land. I will wait for you at the entrance +to the tunnel."</p> + +<p>So he went away; and as soon as he turned the corner of the street he +snapped his fingers and nodded his head with the air of a man who has +just made a very lucky escape.</p> + +<p>"I thank my stars," said he to himself, "that I have not got such a lady +as that to take care of. Handsome as she is, I would not have her<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> for a +travelling companion on any account whatever."</p> + +<p>It was from having witnessed several such exhibitions of character as +this that Mr. George had expressed himself so strongly to Rollo on the +subject of joining Mr. Parkman and his wife in making the tour of +Holland.</p> + +<p>But notwithstanding Mr. George's determination that he would not travel +in company with such a lady, it seemed to be decreed that he should do +so, for he left London about a week after this to go to Holland with +Rollo alone; and though he postponed setting out for several days, so as +to allow Mr. and Mrs. Parkman time to get well under way before them, he +happened to fall in with them several times in the course of the +journey. The first time that he met with them was in crossing the +Straits of Dover.</p> + +<p>There are several ways by which a person may go to Holland from London. +The cheapest is to take a steamer, by which means you go down the +Thames, and thence pass directly across the German Ocean to the coast of +Holland. But that makes quite a little voyage by sea, during which +almost all persons are subject to a very disagreeable kind of sickness, +on account of the small size of the steamers, and the short tossing +motion of the sea that almost always prevails in the waters that lie +around Great Britain.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span></p> + +<p>So Mr. George and Rollo, who neither of them liked to be seasick, +determined to go another way. They concluded to go down by railway to +Dover, and then to go to Calais across the strait, where the passage is +the shortest. Mr. and Mrs. Parkman had set off several days before them, +and Mr. George supposed that by this time they were far on their way +towards Holland. But they had been delayed by Mrs. Parkman's desire to +go to Brighton, which is a great watering place on the coast, not far +from Dover. There Mr. and Mrs. Parkman had spent several days, and it so +happened that in going from Brighton to Dover they met, at the junction, +the train that was bringing Mr. George and Rollo down from London; and +thus, though both parties were unconscious of the fact, they were +travelling along towards Dover, after leaving the junction, in the same +train, and when they stepped out of the carriages, upon the Dover +platform, there they were all together.</p> + +<p>Mr. Parkman and Mr. George were very glad to see each other; and while +they were shaking hands with each other, and making mutual explanations, +Mrs. Parkman went to the door of the station to see what sort of a place +Dover was.</p> + +<p>She saw some long piers extending out into the water, and a great many +ships and steamers lying<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> near them. The town lay along the shore, +surrounding an inner harbor enclosed by the walls of the piers. Behind +the town were high cliffs, and an elevated plain above, on which a great +number of tents were pitched. It was the encampment of an army. A little +way along the shore a vast promontory was seen, crowned by an ancient +and venerable looking castle, and terminated by a range of lofty and +perpendicular cliffs of chalk towards the sea.</p> + +<p>"What a romantic place!" said Mrs. Parkman to herself. "It is just such +a place as I like. I'll make William stay here to-day."</p> + +<p>Just then she heard her husband's voice calling to her.</p> + +<p>"Louise!"</p> + +<p>She turned and saw her husband beckoning to her. He was standing with +Mr. George and Rollo near the luggage van, as they call it in England, +while the railway porters were taking out the luggage.</p> + +<p>Mrs. Parkman walked towards the place.</p> + +<p>"They say, Louise," said Mr. Parkman, "that it is time for us to go on +board the boat. She is going to sail immediately."</p> + +<p>"Ah! but, William," said Mrs. Parkman, "let us stay here a little while. +Dover is such a romantic looking place."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Very well," said Mr. Parkman, "we will stay if you like. Are you going +to stay, Mr. George?"</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mr. George; "Rollo and I were going to stay till this +afternoon. There is a boat to cross at four o'clock."</p> + +<p>It was about eleven o'clock in the morning when this conversation +occurred. The porter stood by all the time with Mr. Parkman's two trunks +in his charge, waiting to have it decided when they were to go.</p> + +<p>"I should think, sir," said the porter, "that as you have a lady with +you, you would find this boat better. This is a tidal steamer, but the +four o'clock is the mail boat, and it will be pretty rough this +afternoon. There is a breeze coming up."</p> + +<p>"O, never mind the breeze," said Mrs. Parkman. "We are used to it, +porter. We've crossed the Atlantic."</p> + +<p>"Very well," said Mr. Parkman, "we will wait until four o'clock."</p> + +<p>"Then I'll put the luggage in the luggage room," said the porter, "and +take it to the boat at half past three. That's the way to the hotel," he +added, pointing the way.</p> + +<p>There are several very nice hotels in Dover, but the one which the +porter referred to is one of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> finest and most beautifully situated +hotels in Europe. It is a large and handsome edifice, built in modern +style, and it stands close to the railroad station, on a point of land +overlooking the sea. The coffee room, which, unlike other English coffee +rooms, is used by both ladies and gentlemen, is a very spacious and +splendidly decorated apartment, with large windows on three sides of it, +overlooking the sea and the neighboring coasts. Each sash of these +windows is glazed with one single pane of plate glass, so that whether +they are shut or open there is nothing to intercept the view. The room +is furnished with a great number of tables, each large enough to +accommodate parties of four or six, and all, except two or three in +different parts of the room that are reserved for reading and writing, +are covered with neat white table cloths, and other preparations more or +less advanced for breakfasts or dinners that may have been ordered, +while at almost all times of the day, a greater or less number of them +are occupied by parties of tourists, their bags and baskets lying on the +neighboring chairs.</p> + +<p>It was into this room, so occupied, that our travellers were ushered as +they walked from the station into the hotel.</p> + +<p>Mrs. Parkman walked forward, and took her seat near a window. The +gentlemen attended her.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span></p> + +<p>"What a magnificent view!" said she.</p> + +<p>The view was indeed magnificent. Across the water was to be seen the +coast of France, lying like a low cloud close to the horizon. Ships, and +steamers, and fish boats, and every other sort of craft were seen plying +to and fro over the water,—some going out, others coming in. Through +one of the windows in the end of the room, Mrs. Parkman could see the +castle crowning its bold and lofty promontory, and the perpendicular +cliffs of chalk, with the sea beating against the base of them below. +Through the opposite window, which of course was at the other end of the +room, the view extended down the coast for a great distance, showing +point after point, and headland after headland, in dim perspective—with +a long line of surf rolling incessantly upon the beach, which seemed, in +that direction, interminable.</p> + +<p>After looking for some time at the view from the windows, Mrs. Parkman +turned to observe the company in the room, and to watch the several +parties of new comers as they successively entered. She wished to see if +there were any young brides among them. While she was thus engaged, her +husband selected a table that was vacant, and ordered breakfast. Mr. +George and Rollo did the same at another table near.</p> + +<p>While Mr. George and Rollo were at the table<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> drinking their coffee, Mr. +George asked Rollo what he supposed the porter meant by saying that the +eleven o'clock boat was a tidal boat.</p> + +<p>"<i>I</i> know," said Rollo. "I read it in the guide book. The tidal steamers +go at high tide, or nearly high tide, and if you go in them you embark +from the pier on one side, and you land at the pier on the other. But +the mail steamers go at a regular hour every day, and then when it +happens to be low tide, they cannot get to the pier, and the passengers +have to land in small boats. That is what the porter meant when he said +that it would not be pleasant for a lady to go in the mail steamer. It +is very unpleasant for ladies to be landed in small boats when the +weather is rough."</p> + +<p>"I don't believe that Mrs. Parkman understood it," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Nor I either," said Rollo.</p> + +<p>"I presume she thought," added Mr. George, "that when the porter spoke +about the rough sea, he only referred to the motion of the steamer in +going over."</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Rollo, "but what he really meant was, that it would be bad +for her to get down from the steamer into the small boat at the landing. +I am afraid that she will not like it, though I think that it will be +real good fun."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Very likely it will be fun for <i>you</i>," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"I would a great deal rather go across in a mail steamer at low tide +than in any other way," said Rollo.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i041.jpg" width="600" height="443" alt="" title="chapter endpiece" /> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Chapter_III" id="Chapter_III"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter III.</span></h2> + +<h3><span class="smcap">The Mail Steamer</span>.</h3> + + +<p>Rollo's explanation in respect to the mail steamer was correct. As has +before been stated in some one or other of the volumes of this series, +the northern coast of France is low, and the shore is shelving for +almost the whole extent of it, and there are scarcely any good harbors. +Immense sandy beaches extend along the coast, sloping so gradually +outward, that when the tide goes down the sands are left bare for miles +and miles towards the sea. The only way by which harbors can be made on +such a shore is to find some place where a creek or small river flows +into the sea, and then walling in the channel at the mouth of the creek, +so as to prevent it being choked up by sand. In this way a passage is +secured, by which, when the tide is high, pretty good sized vessels can +get in; but, after all that they can do in such a case, they cannot make +a harbor which can be entered at low tide. When the tide is out, nothing +is left between the two piers, which form<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> the borders of the channel, +but muddy flats, with a small, sluggish stream, scarcely deep enough to +float a jolly boat, slowly meandering in the midst of them towards the +sea.</p> + +<p>The harbor of California is such a harbor as this. Accordingly, in case +a steamer arrives there when the tide is down, there is no other way but +for her to anchor in the offing until it rises again; and the +passengers, if they wish to go ashore, must clamber down the side of the +vessel into a small boat, and be pulled ashore by the oarsmen. In smooth +weather this is very easily done. But in rough weather, when both +steamer and boat are pitching and tossing violently up and down upon the +waves, it is <i>not</i> very easy or agreeable, especially for timid ladies.</p> + +<p>After finishing their breakfast, Mr. George and Rollo went out, and they +rambled about the town until the time drew near for the sailing of the +boat. Then they went to the station for the luggage, and having engaged +a porter to take it to the boat, they followed him down to the pier till +they came to the place where the boat was lying. After seeing the trunk +put on board they went on board themselves. A short time afterwards Mr. +and Mrs. Parkman came.</p> + +<p>The steamer, like all the others which ply between the coasts of France +and England, was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> quite small, and the passengers were very few. There +were only four or five ladies, and not far from the same number of +gentlemen. As the passage was only expected to occupy about two hours, +the passengers did not go below, but arranged themselves on seats upon +the deck—some along the sides of the deck by the bulwarks, and some +near the centre, around a sort of house built over the passage way which +led down into the cabin.</p> + +<p>Soon after Mr. and Mrs. Parkman came on board, Mr. Parkman said to his +wife,—</p> + +<p>"Now, Louise, my dear, you will be less likely to be sick if you get +some good place where you can take a reclining posture, and so remain +pretty still until we get over."</p> + +<p>"O, I shall not be sick," said she. "I am not at all afraid."</p> + +<p>So she began walking about the deck with an unconcerned and careless +air, as if she had been an old sailor.</p> + +<p>Pretty soon Mr. George saw two other ladies coming, with their husbands, +over the plank. The countenances of these ladies were very pleasing, and +there was a quiet gentleness in their air and manner which impressed Mr. +George very strongly in their favor.</p> + +<p>As soon as they reached the deck, and while<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> their husbands were +attending to the disposal of the luggage, they began to look for seats.</p> + +<p>"We will get into the most comfortable position we can," said one of +them, "and keep still till we get nearly across."</p> + +<p>"Yes," said the other, "that will be the safest."</p> + +<p>So they chose good seats near the companion way, and sat down there, and +their husbands brought them carpet bags to put their feet upon.</p> + +<p>In about fifteen minutes after this the steamer put off from the pier, +and commenced her voyage. She very soon began to rise and fall over the +waves, with a short, uneasy motion, which was very disagreeable. The +passengers, however, all remained still in the places which they had +severally chosen,—some reading, others lying quiet with their eyes +closed, as if they were trying to go to sleep.</p> + +<p>Mr. Parkman himself tried to do this, but his wife would not leave him +in peace. She came to him continually to inquire about this or that, or +to ask him to look at some vessel that was coming in sight, or at some +view on the shore. All this time the wind, and the consequent motion of +the steamer, increased. Scudding clouds were seen flitting across the +sky, from which there descended now and then misty showers of rain.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> +These clouds gradually became more frequent and more dense, until at +length the whole eastern sky was involved in one dense mass of +threatening vapor.</p> + +<p>It began to grow dark, too. The specified time for sailing was four +o'clock; but there was a delay for the mails, and it was full half past +four before the steamer had left the pier. And now, before she began to +draw near the French coast, it was nearly half past six. At length the +coast began slowly to appear. Its outline was dimly discerned among the +misty clouds.</p> + +<p>Long before this time, however, Mrs. Parkman had become quite sick. She +first began to feel dizzy, and then she turned pale, and finally she +came and sat down by her husband, and leaned her head upon his shoulder.</p> + +<p>She had been sitting in this posture for nearly half an hour, when at +length she seemed to feel better, and she raised her head again.</p> + +<p>"Are we not nearly there?" said she.</p> + +<p>"Yes," said her husband. "The lighthouse is right ahead, and the ends of +the piers. In ten minutes more we shall be going in between them, and +then all the trouble will be over."</p> + +<p>Rollo and Mr. George were at this time near the bows. They had gone +there to look forward, in order to get as early a glimpse as possible +of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> the boats that they knew were to be expected to come out from the +pier as soon as the steamer should draw nigh.</p> + +<p>"Here they come!" said Rollo, at length.</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mr. George. "I see them."</p> + +<p>It was so nearly dark that the boats could not be seen distinctly. +Indeed there was not much to be discerned but a black moving mass, +slowly coming out from under the walls of the pier.</p> + +<p>The steamer had now nearly reached the ground where she was to anchor, +and so the seamen on the forecastle took in the foresail, which had been +spread during the voyage, and the helmsman put down the helm. The head +of the steamer then slowly came round till it pointed in a direction +parallel to the shore. This carried the boats and the pier somewhat out +of view from the place where Mr. George and Rollo had been standing.</p> + +<p>"Now we can see them better aft," said Rollo.</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mr. George, "and they will board us aft too; so we had +better be there ready."</p> + +<p>Accordingly Mr. George and Rollo went aft again, and approached the +gangway on the side where they supposed the boats would come.</p> + +<p>In going there they passed round first on the other side of the entrance +to the cabin, where the two ladies were sitting that have already been<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> +described. As they went by one of the gentlemen came to them and said,—</p> + +<p>"Keep up your courage a few minutes longer. We are very near the pier. +In ten minutes we shall be in smooth water, and all will be over."</p> + +<p>The ladies seemed much relieved and rejoiced to hear this, and then the +gentleman went with Mr. George and Rollo towards the gangway, in order +that they might make further observations. He was joined there a moment +afterwards by his companion. Now, these gentlemen, as it happened, knew +nothing about the plan of landing in boats. They had made no particular +inquiry at Dover in respect to the steamer that they had come in, but +took it for granted that she would go into the harbor as usual, and land +the passengers at the pier. Their attention had just been attracted to +the singular movement of the steamer, when Rollo and Mr. George came up.</p> + +<p>"<i>What!</i>" said one of them, speaking with a tone of surprise, and +looking about eagerly over the water. "We are coming to, Mr. Waldo. What +can that mean?"</p> + +<p>Just then the little fleet of boats, six or seven in number, began to +come into view from where the gentlemen stood. They were dimly seen at a +distance, and looked like long, black animals, slowly advancing over the +dark surface of the water, and struggling fearfully with the waves.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span></p> + +<p>"What boats can those be?" said Mr. Waldo, beginning to look a little +alarmed.</p> + +<p>He was alarmed not for himself, but for his wife, who was very frail and +delicate in health, and ill fitted to bear any unusual exposure.</p> + +<p>"I am sure I cannot imagine," replied the other.</p> + +<p>"It looks marvellously as if they were coming out for us," said Mr. +Waldo.</p> + +<p>"Can it be possible, Mr. Albert, that we are to land in boats such a +night as this?" continued he.</p> + +<p>"It looks like it," replied the other. "Yes, they are really coming +here."</p> + +<p>The boats were now seen evidently advancing towards the steamer. They +came on in a line, struggling fearfully with the waves.</p> + +<p>"They look like spectres of boats," said Mr. George to Rollo.</p> + +<p>Mr. Albert now went round to the other side of the companion way, to the +place where the two ladies were sitting.</p> + +<p>"Ladies," said he, "I am very sorry to say that we shall be obliged to +land in boats."</p> + +<p>"In boats!" said the ladies, surprised.</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mr. Albert, "the tide is out, and I suppose we cannot go +into port. The steamer has come to, and the boats are coming +alongside."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span></p> + +<p>The ladies looked out over the dark and stormy water with an emotion of +fear, but they did not say a word.</p> + +<p>"There is no help for it," continued the gentleman; "and you have +nothing to do but to resign yourselves passively to whatever comes. If +we had known that this steamer would not go into port, we would not have +come in her; but now that we are here we must go through."</p> + +<p>"Very well," said the ladies. "Let us know when the boat for us is +ready."</p> + +<p>Mr. Albert then returned to the gangway, where Rollo and Mr. George were +standing. The foremost boat had come alongside, and the seamen were +throwing the mail bags into it. When the mails were all safely stowed in +the boat, some of the passengers that stood near by were called upon to +follow. Mr. George and Rollo, being near, were among those thus called +upon.</p> + +<p>"Wait a moment," said Mr. George to Rollo, in a low tone. "Let a few of +the others go first, that we may see how they manage it."</p> + +<p>It proved to be rather difficult to manage it; for both the steamer and +the boat were rocking and tossing violently on the waves, and as their +respective motions did not at all correspond, they thumped against each +other continually, as the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> boat rose and fell up and down the side of +the steamer in a fearful manner. It was dark too, and the wind was +blowing fresh, which added to the frightfulness of the scene.</p> + +<p>A crowd of people stood about the gangway. Some of these people were +passengers waiting to go down, and others, officers of the ship, to help +them. The seamen in the boat below were all on the alert too, some +employed in keeping the boat off from the side of the ship, in order to +prevent her being stove or swamped, while others stood on each side of +the place where the passengers were to descend, with uplifted arms, +ready to seize and hold them when they came down.</p> + +<p>There was a little flight of steps hanging down the side of the steamer, +with ropes on each side of it in lieu of a balustrade. The passenger who +was to embark was directed to turn round and begin to go down these +steps backward, and then, when the sea lifted the boat so that the +seamen on board could seize hold of him, they all cried out +vociferously, "<span class="smcap">Let go</span>!" and at the same moment a strong sailor grasped +him around the waist, brought him down into the bottom of the boat in a +very safe, though extremely unceremonious manner.</p> + +<p>After several gentlemen and one lady had thus<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> been put into the boat, +amid a great deal of calling and shouting, and many exclamations of +surprise and terror, the officer at the gangway turned to Mr. George, +saying,—</p> + +<p>"Come, sir!"</p> + +<p>There was no time to stop to talk; so Mr. George stepped forward, saying +to Rollo as he went, "Come right on directly after me;" and in a moment +more he was seized by the man, and whirled down into the boat, he +scarcely knew how. Immediately after he was in, there came some +unusually heavy seas, and the steamer and the boat thumped together so +violently that all the efforts of the seamen seemed to be required to +keep them apart.</p> + +<p>"Push off!" said the officer.</p> + +<p>"Here, stop! I want to go first," exclaimed Rollo.</p> + +<p>"No more in this boat," said the officer. "Push off!"</p> + +<p>"Never mind," said Rollo, calling out to Mr. George, "I'll come by and +by."</p> + +<p>"All right," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>By this time the boat had got clear of the steamer, and she now began to +move slowly onward, rising and falling on the waves, and struggling +violently to make her way.</p> + +<p>"I am glad they did not let me go," said Rol<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span>lo. "I would rather stay +and see the rest go first."</p> + +<p>Another boat was now seen approaching, and Rollo stepped back a little +to make way for the people that were to go in it, when he heard Mrs. +Parkman's voice, in tones of great anxiety and terror, saying to her +husband,—</p> + +<p>"I cannot go ashore in a boat in that way, William. I cannot possibly, +and I will not!"</p> + +<p>"Why, Louise," said her husband, "what else can we do?"</p> + +<p>"I'll wait till the steamer goes into port, if I have to wait till +midnight," replied Mrs. Parkman positively. "It is a shame! Such +disgraceful management! Could not they find out how the tide would be +here before they left Dover?"</p> + +<p>"Yes," replied Mr. Parkman. "Of course they knew perfectly well how the +tide would be."</p> + +<p>"Then why did not they leave at such an hour as to make it right for +landing here?"</p> + +<p>"There <i>are</i> boats every day," said Mr. Parkman, "which leave at the +right time for that, and most passengers take them. But the mails must +come across at regular hours, whether the tide serves or not, and boats +must come to bring the mails, and they, of course, allow passengers to +come in these boats too, if they choose. We surely cannot complain of +that."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Then they ought to have told us how it was," said Mrs. Parkman. "I +think it is a shameful deception, to bring us over in this way, and not +let us know any thing about it."</p> + +<p>"But they did tell us," said Mr. Parkman. "Do not you recollect that the +porter at the station told us that this was a mail boat, and that it +would not be pleasant for a lady."</p> + +<p>"But I did not know," persisted Mrs. Parkman, "that he meant that we +should have to land in this way. He did not tell us any thing about +that."</p> + +<p>"He told us that it was a mail boat, and he meant by that to tell us +that we could not land at the pier. It is true, we did not understand +him fully, but that is because we come from a great distance, and do not +understand the customs of the country. That is our misfortune. It was +not the porter's fault."</p> + +<p>"I don't think so at all," said Mrs. Parkman. "And you always take part +against me in such things, and I think it is really unkind."</p> + +<p>All this conversation went on in an under tone; but though there was a +great deal of noise and confusion on every side, Rollo could hear it +all. While he was listening to it,—or rather while he was <i>hearing</i> it, +for he took no pains to listen,—the gentleman who had been talking<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> +with Mr. Waldo, and whom the latter had called Mr. Albert, went round to +the two ladies who were waiting to be called, and said,—</p> + +<p>"Now, ladies, the boat is ready. Follow me. Say nothing, but do just as +you are told, and all will go well."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i055.jpg" width="600" height="507" alt="" title="" /> +<span class="caption">LANDING FROM THE MAIL BOAT.</span> +</div> + + +<p>So the ladies came one after the other in among the crowd that gathered +around the gangway, and there, before they could bring their faculties +at all to comprehend any thing distinctly amid<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> the bewildering +confusion of the scene, they found their bags and shawls taken away from +them, and they themselves turned round and gently forced to back down +the steps of the ladder over the boiling surges, when, in a moment more, +amid loud shouts of "<span class="smcap">Let go</span>!" they were seized by the sailors in the +boat, and down they went, they knew not how, for a distance of many feet +into the stern of the boat, where they suddenly found themselves seated, +while the boat itself was rocking violently to and fro, and thumping +against the side of the steamer in a frightful manner.</p> + +<p>The officer, who had charge of the debarkation on the deck of the +steamer above, immediately called to Mrs. Parkman.</p> + +<p>"Come, madam!" said he.</p> + +<p>"No," said she, "I can't possibly go ashore in that way."</p> + +<p>"Then you will have to stay on board all night."</p> + +<p>"Well, I'd rather stay on board all night," said she.</p> + +<p>"And you will have to go back to Dover, madam," continued the officer, +speaking in a very stern and hurried manner, "for the steamer is not +going into the pier at all."</p> + +<p>Then immediately turning to Rollo, he said, "Come, young man!"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span></p> + +<p>So Rollo marched up to the gangway, and was in a moment whirled down +into the boat, as the others had been. Immediately afterwards the boat +pushed off, and the sailors began to row, leaving Mr. and Mrs. Parkman +on board the steamer. How they were to get to the shore Rollo did not +know.</p> + +<p>Rollo began to look about over the water. It had become almost entirely +dark, and though the moon, which was full, had, as it happened, broken +out through the clouds a short time before, when they were getting into +the boats, she had now become obscured again, and every thing seemed +enveloped in deep gloom. Still Rollo could see at a short distance +before him the other boats slowly making their way over the wild and +stormy water. He could also see the ends of the piers dimly defined in +the misty air, and the tall lighthouse beyond, with a bright light +burning in the lantern at the top of it.</p> + +<p>"We shall only be a few minutes, now," said one of the gentlemen. "It is +not far to the piers."</p> + +<p>The boat went on, pitching and tossing over the waves, with her head +towards the piers. The pilot who steered the boat called out continually +to the oarsmen, and the oarsmen shouted back to him; but nobody could +understand such sailor<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> language as they used. At length, on looking +forward again, Rollo saw that the boats before him, instead of going on +in a line towards the land, were slowly scattering in all directions, +and that their own boat, instead of heading towards the pier as at +first, gradually turned round, and seemed to be going along in a +direction parallel to the coast, as the steamer had done.</p> + +<p>"What!" exclaimed Mr. Albert, on observing this, "we are not going +towards the piers. Where can we be going?"</p> + +<p>The other gentleman shook his head, and said he did not know.</p> + +<p>The ladies remained quietly in their places. There was evidently nothing +for them to do, and so they concluded, very sensibly, to do nothing.</p> + +<p>The boat slowly turned her head round, all the time pitching and tossing +violently on the billows, until finally she was directed almost towards +the steamer again.</p> + +<p>"What can be the matter?" asked one of the gentlemen, addressing the +other. "We are not heading towards the shore." Then turning towards the +pilot, he said to him,—</p> + +<p>"What is the matter? Why cannot we go in?"</p> + +<p>The pilot, who spoke English very imperfectly, answered, "It is a bar. +The water is not enough."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span></p> + +<p>"There is a bar," said the gentleman, "outside the entrance to the +harbor, and the water is not deep enough even for these boats to go +over. We can see it."</p> + +<p>Rollo and the others looked in the direction where the gentleman +pointed, and he could see a long, white line formed by the breakers on +the bar, extending each way as far as the eye could reach along the +shore. Beyond were to be dimly seen the heads of the piers, and a low +line of the coast on either hand, with the lighthouse beyond, towering +high into the air, and a bright and steady light beaming from the summit +of it.</p> + +<p>"I hope the tide is not going <i>down</i>," said the gentleman, "for in that +case we may have to wait here half the night."</p> + +<p>"Is the tide going down, or coming up?" he said, turning again to the +pilot.</p> + +<p>"It will come up. The tide will come up," answered the pilot.</p> + +<p>"What does he say?" asked one of the ladies in a whisper.</p> + +<p>"He says that the tide will come up," replied the gentleman. "Whether he +means it is coming up now, or that it will come up some time or other, I +do not know. We have nothing to do but to remain quiet, and await the +result."</p> + +<p>The clouds had been for some time growing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> darker and darker, and now it +began to rain. So the gentlemen took out their umbrellas and spread +them, and the party huddled together in the bottom of the boat, and +sheltered themselves there as well as they could from the wind and rain. +They invited Rollo to come under the umbrellas too, but he said that the +rain would not hurt his cap, and he preferred to sit where he could look +out and see what they would do.</p> + +<p>"Very well," said one of the gentlemen. "Tell us, from time to time, how +we get along."</p> + +<p>So Rollo watched the manœuvring of the boat, and reported, from time +to time, the progress that she was making. It was not very easy for him +to make himself heard, on account of the noise of the winds and waves, +and the continual vociferations of the pilot and the seamen.</p> + +<p>"We are headed now," said he, "right away from the shore. We are pointed +towards the steamer. I can just see her, working up and down in the +offing.</p> + +<p>"Now the men are backing water," he continued. "We are going stern +foremost towards the bar. I believe they are going to try to back her +over."</p> + +<p>The boat now rapidly approached the line of breakers, moving stern +foremost. The roar of the surf sounded nearer and nearer. At length<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> the +ladies and gentlemen under the umbrellas looked out, and they saw +themselves in the midst of rolling billows of foam, on which the boat +rose and fell like a bubble. Presently they could feel her thump upon +the bottom. The next wave lifted her up and carried her towards the +shore, and then subsiding, brought her down again with another thump +upon the sand. The pilot shouted out new orders to the seamen. They +immediately began to pull forward with their oars. He had found that the +water was yet too shallow on the bar, and that it would be impossible to +pass over. So the sailors were pulling the boat out to sea again.</p> + +<p>The ladies were, of course, somewhat alarmed while the boat was thumping +on the bar, and the boiling surges were roaring so frightfully around +them; but they said nothing. They knew that they had nothing to do, and +so they remained quiet.</p> + +<p>"We are clear of the bar, now," said Rollo, continuing his report. "I +can see the breakers in a long line before us, but we are clear of them. +Now the sailors are getting out the anchor. I can see a number of the +other boats that are at anchor already."</p> + +<p>The anchor, or rather the grapnel which served as an anchor, was now +thrown overboard, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> the boat came to, head to the wind. There she +lay, pitching and tossing very uneasily on the sea. The other boats were +seen lying in similar situations at different distances. One was very +near; so near, that instead of anchoring herself, the seamen threw a +rope from her on board the boat where Rollo was, and so held on by her, +instead of anchoring herself. In this situation the whole fleet of boats +remained for nearly an hour. Rollo kept a good lookout all the time, +watching for the first indications of any attempt to move.</p> + +<p>At length he heard a fresh command given by the pilot, in language that +he could not understand; but the sailors at the bows immediately began +to take in the anchor.</p> + +<p>"They are raising the anchor," said he. "Now we are going to try it +again. There is one boat gone already. She is just coming to the bar. +She is now just in the breakers. I can see the white foam all around +her. She is going in. Now she is over. I can see the whole line of foam +this side of her. Our boat will be there very soon."</p> + +<p>In a very few minutes more the boat entered the surf, and soon began to +thump as before at every rise and fall of the seas. But as each +successive wave came up, she was lifted and carried<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> farther over the +bar, and at last came to deep water on the other side.</p> + +<p>"It is all over now," said one of the gentlemen, "and, besides, it has +stopped raining." So he rose from his place and shut the umbrella. The +ladies looked around, and to their great joy saw that they were just +entering between the ends of the piers. The passage way was not very +wide, and the piers rose like high walls on each side of it; but the +water was calm and smooth within, and the boats glided along one after +another in a row, in a very calm and peaceful manner. At length they +reached the landing stairs, which were built curiously within the pier, +among the piles and timbers, and there they all safely disembarked.</p> + +<p>On reaching the top of the stairs, Rollo found Mr. George waiting for +him.</p> + +<p>"Uncle George," said Rollo, "here I am."</p> + +<p>"Have you had a good time?" asked Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Rollo, "excellent."</p> + +<p>"And what became of Mr. and Mrs. Parkman?"</p> + +<p>"I don't know," said Rollo; "I left them on board the steamer. She +declared that she would not come in a small boat."</p> + +<p>"You and I," said Mr. George, "will go off<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> to-morrow morning by the +first train, and go straight to Holland as fast as we can, so as to get +out of their way."</p> + +<p>"Well," said Rollo. "Though I don't care much about it either way."</p> + +<p>Mr. George, however, carried his plan into effect. The next day they +went to Antwerp; and on the day following they crossed the Belgian +frontier, and entered Holland.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i064.jpg" width="600" height="467" alt="" title="chapter endpiece" /> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Chapter_IV" id="Chapter_IV"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter IV.</span></h2> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Entering Holland</span>.</h3> + + +<p>Rollo and Mr. George went into Holland by the railway. It was a long +time before Rollo learned that in travelling from one European country +to another, he was not to expect any visible line of demarcation to show +the frontier. Boys at school, in studying the shape and conformation of +different countries on the map, and seeing them marked by distinct +colored boundaries, are very apt to imagine that they will see +something, when travelling from one country to another, to show them by +visible signs when they pass the frontier.</p> + +<p>But there is nothing of the kind. The green fields, the groves, the +farmhouse, the succession of villages continues unchanged as you travel, +so that, as you whirl along in the railway carriage, there is nothing to +warn you of the change, except the custom house stations, where the +passports of travellers are called for, and the baggage is examined.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Uncle George," said Rollo, after looking out of the window at a place +where the train stopped, twenty or thirty miles from Antwerp, "I think +we are coming to the frontier."</p> + +<p>"Why so?" asked Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Because the Belgian custom house is at this station, and the next will +be the Dutch custom house."</p> + +<p>Rollo knew that this was the Belgian custom house by seeing the word +<span class="smcap">Douane</span> over one of the doors of the station, and under it the words +<span class="smcap">Visite Des Bagages</span>, which means <i>examination of baggage</i>. There were +besides a great many soldiers standing about, which was another +indication.</p> + +<p>"How do you know that it is the Belgian custom house?" asked Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Because all these soldiers are in the Belgian uniform," said he. "I +know the Belgian uniform. I don't know the Dutch uniform, but I suppose +I shall see it at the next station."</p> + +<p>Rollo was perfectly right in his calculations. The last station on the +line of the railway in Belgium was the frontier station for Belgium, and +here travellers, coming from Holland, were called upon to show their +passports, and to have their baggage examined. In the same manner the +first station beyond, which was the first one in Hol<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span>land, was the +frontier station for that country, and there passengers going from +Belgium into Holland were stopped and examined in the same way.</p> + +<p>After going on a few miles from the Belgium station, the whistle blew +and the train began to stop.</p> + +<p>"Here we are!" said Rollo.</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mr. George; "and now comes the time of trial for the musical +box."</p> + +<p>Rollo had bought a musical box at Antwerp, and he had some fears lest he +might be obliged to pay a duty upon it, in going into Holland. Mr. +George had told him that he thought there was some danger, but Rollo +concluded that he would take the risk.</p> + +<p>"They have no business to make me pay duty upon it," said he to Mr. +George.</p> + +<p>"Why not?" asked Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Because it is not for merchandise," said Rollo. "It is not for sale. I +have bought it for my own use alone."</p> + +<p>"That has nothing to do with it," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Yes it has, a great deal to do with it," replied Rollo.</p> + +<p>There might have been quite a spirited discussion between Mr. George and +Rollo, on this old<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> and knotty question, over which tourists in Europe +are continually stumbling, had not the train stopped. The moment that +the motion ceased, the doors of all the carriages were opened, and a man +passed along the line calling out in French,—</p> + +<p>"Gentlemen and ladies will all descend here, for the examination of +passports and baggage."</p> + +<p>Mr. George and Rollo had no baggage, except a valise which they carried +with them in the carriage. Mr. George took this valise up and stepped +down upon the platform.</p> + +<p>"Now, Rollo," said Mr. George, "if they find your musical box and charge +duty upon it, pay it like a man."</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Rollo, "I will."</p> + +<p>"And don't get up a quarrel with the custom house officer on the +subject," continued Mr. George, "for he has the whole military force of +the kingdom of Holland at his command, and what he says is to be done, +in this territory, must be done."</p> + +<p>So saying, Mr. George, valise in hand, followed the crowd of passengers +through a door, over which was inscribed the Dutch word for baggage. In +the centre of this room there was a sort of low counter, enclosing a +sort of oblong square. Within the square were a number of custom house +officers, ready to examine the baggage<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> which the porters and the +passengers were bringing in, and laying upon the counter, all around the +four sides of the square.</p> + +<p>Mr. George brought up his valise, and placed it on the counter. A custom +house officer, who had just examined and marked some other parcels, +turned to Mr. George's just as he had unlocked and opened it.</p> + +<p>"Have you any thing to declare?" said the officer.</p> + +<p>"Nothing, sir," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>The officer immediately shut the valise, and marked it on the back with +a piece of chalk, and Mr. George locked it and took it away.</p> + +<p>"Are you through?" asked Rollo.</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>Mr. George then took the valise and followed a crowd of passengers, who +were going through a door at the end of the room opposite to where they +came in. There was an officer in uniform on each side of this door. +These officers examined every bag, valise, or parcel that the passengers +had in their hands, to see if they had been marked by the examiners, and +as fast as they found that they were marked, they let them pass.</p> + +<p>Following this company, Mr. George and Rollo came soon to another small +room, where a man was sitting behind a desk, examining the passports<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> of +the passengers and stamping them. Mr. George waited a moment until it +came his turn, and then handed his passport too. The officer looked at +it, and then stamped an impression from a sort of seal on one corner of +it. He also wrote Mr. George's and Rollo's name in a big book, copying +them for this purpose from the passport.</p> + +<p>He then handed the passport back again, and Mr. George and Rollo went +out, passing by a soldier who guarded the door. They found themselves +now on the railway platform.</p> + +<p>"Now," said Rollo, "I suppose that we may go and take our seats again."</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mr. George. "We are fairly entered within the dominions of +his majesty the king of Holland."</p> + +<p>"And no duty to pay on my music box," said Rollo.</p> + +<p>Rollo took a seat by a window where he could look out as the train went +on, and see, as he said, how Holland looked. The country was one immense +and boundless plain, and there were no fences or other close enclosures +of any kind. And yet the face of it was so endlessly varied with rows of +trees, groves, farm houses, gardens, wind mills, roads, and other +elements of rural scenery, that Rollo found it extremely beautiful. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> +fields were very green where grass was growing, and the foliage of the +trees, and of the little ornamental hedges that were seen here and there +adorning the grounds of the farm houses, was very rich and full. As +Rollo looked out at the window, a continued succession of the most +bright and beautiful pictures passed rapidly before his eyes, like those +of a gayly painted panorama, and they all called forth from him +continually repeated exclamations of delight. Mr. George sat at his +window enjoying the scene perhaps quite as much as Rollo did, though he +was much less ardent in expressing his admiration.</p> + +<p>"See these roads, uncle George," said Rollo; "they run along on the tops +of the embankment like railroads. Are those dikes?"</p> + +<p>"No," said Mr. George. "The dikes are built along the margin of the sea, +and along the banks of rivers and canals, to take the water out. These +are embankments for the roads, to raise them up and keep them dry."</p> + +<p>There were rows of trees on the sides of these raised roads, which +formed beautiful avenues to shelter the carriage way from the sun. These +avenues could sometimes be seen stretching for miles across the country.</p> + +<p>"Now, pretty soon," said Rollo, "we shall come to the water, and then we +shall take a steamboat."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Then we do not go all the way by the train," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"No," said Rollo. "The railroad stops at a place called Moerdyk, and +there we take a steamer and go along some of the rivers.</p> + +<p>"But I can't find out by the map exactly how we are to go," he +continued, "because there are so many rivers."</p> + +<p>Rollo had found, by the map, that the country all about Rotterdam was +intersected by a complete network of creeks and rivers. This system was +connected on the land side with the waters of the Rhine, by the immense +multitude of branches into which that river divides itself towards its +mouth, and on the other side by innumerable creeks and inlets coming in +from the sea. This network of channels is so extensive, and the water in +the various branches of it is so deep, that ships and steamers can go at +will all about the country. It would be as difficult to make a railroad +over such a tract of mingled land and water as this, as it is easy to +navigate a steamer through it; and, accordingly, the owners of the line +had made arrangements for stopping the trains at Moerdyk, and then +transferring the passengers to a steamer.</p> + +<p>"I have great curiosity," said Rollo, "to see whether, when we come to +the water, we shall go <i>up</i> to it, instead of <i>down</i> to it."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Do you think that we shall go up to it?" asked Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"I don't know," replied Rollo. "We do in some parts of Holland. In some +places, according to what the guide book says, the land is twenty or +thirty feet below the level of the water, and so when you come to the +shore you go <i>up an embankment</i>, and there you find the water on the +other side, nearly at the top of it."</p> + +<p>When at length the train stopped at Moerdyk, the conductor called out +from the platform that all the passengers would descend from the +carriages to embark on board the steamer. Rollo was too much interested +in making the change, and in hurrying Mr. George along so as to get a +good seat in the steamer, to make any observation on the comparative +level of the land and water. There was quite a little crowd of +passengers to go on board; and as they walked along the pier towards the +place where the steamer was lying, all loaded with as many bags, cloaks, +umbrellas, or parcels of some sort, as they could carry, Rollo and Mr. +George pressed on before them, Rollo leading the way. The steamer was a +long and narrow boat, painted black, in the English fashion. There was +no awning over the deck, and most of the passengers went below.</p> + +<p>"I don't see what they are all going below<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> for," said Rollo. "I should +think that they would wish to stay on deck and see the scenery."</p> + +<p>So Rollo chose a seat by the side of a small porch which was built upon +the deck over the entrance to the cabin, and sat down immediately upon +it, making room for Mr. George by his side. There was a little table +before him, and he laid down his guide book and his great coat upon it.</p> + +<p>"Now," said he, "this is good. We have got an excellent seat, and we +will have a first rate time looking at Holland as we go along."</p> + +<p>Just then a young man, dressed in a suit of gray, and with a spy glass +hanging at his side, suspended by a strap from his shoulder, and with a +young and pretty, but rather disdainful looking lady on his arm, came +by.</p> + +<p>"Now, Emily," said he, "which would you prefer, to sit here upon the +deck or go below?"</p> + +<p>"O George," said she, "let us go below. There's nothing to be seen on +the deck. The country is every where flat and uninteresting."</p> + +<p>"We might see the shores as we go along," suggested her husband.</p> + +<p>"O, there's nothing to be seen along the shores," said she; "nothing but +bulrushes and willows. We had better go below."</p> + +<p>So Emily led George below.</p> + +<p>"Rollo," said Mr. George, "if you would like<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> to take a bet, I will bet +you the prettiest Dutch toy that you can find in Amsterdam, that that is +another Mrs. Parkman."</p> + +<p>"I think it very likely she is," said Rollo. "But, uncle George, what do +you think they have got down below? I've a great mind to go down and +see."</p> + +<p>"Very well," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"And will you keep my place while I am gone?" asked Rollo.</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mr. George, "or you can put your cap in it to keep it."</p> + +<p>So Rollo put his cap in his seat, and went down below. In a few minutes +he returned, saying that there was a pretty little cabin down there, +with small tables set out along the sides of it, and different parties +of people getting ready for breakfast.</p> + +<p>"It is rather late for breakfast," said Mr. George. "It is after twelve +o'clock."</p> + +<p>"Then perhaps they call it luncheon," said Rollo. "But I'd rather stay +on deck. We might have something to eat here. Don't you think we could +have it on this table?"</p> + +<p>"Yes," replied Mr. George, "that is what the table is put here for."</p> + +<p>"Well!" said Rollo, his eye brightening up at the idea.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span></p> + +<p>"We can have it here, or we can wait and have it at the hotel in +Rotterdam," said Mr. George. "You may decide. I'll do just as you say."</p> + +<p>Rollo finally concluded to wait till they arrived at Rotterdam, and then +to have a good dinner all by themselves at some table by a window in the +hotel, and in the mean time to devote himself, while on board the +steamer, to observing the shores of the river, or arm of the sea, +whichever it might be, on which they were sailing.</p> + +<p>The steamer had before this time set sail from the pier, and after +backing out of a little sort of creek or branch where it had been +moored, it entered a broad channel of deep water, and began rapidly to +move along. The day was pleasant, and though the air was cool, Rollo and +Mr. George were so well sheltered by the little porch by the side of +which they were sitting, that they were very comfortable in all +respects.</p> + +<p>Before long the channel of water in which the steamer was sailing became +more narrow, and the steamer passed nearer a bank, which Rollo soon +perceived was formed by a dike.</p> + +<p>"See, see! uncle George," said he. "There are the roofs of the houses +over on the other side of the dike. We can just see the tops of them. +The ground that the houses stand upon must be a great deal below the +water."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mr. George, "and see, there are the tops of the tall trees."</p> + +<p>The dike was very regular in its form, and it was ornamented with two +rows of trees along the top of it. There were seats here and there under +the trees, and some of these seats had people sitting upon them, looking +at the passing boats and steamers. The water was full of vessels of all +kinds, coming and going, or lying at anchor. These vessels were all of +very peculiar forms, being built in the Dutch style, and not painted, +but only varnished, so as to show beautifully the natural color of the +wood of which they were made. They had what Rollo called <i>fins</i> on each +side, which were made to be taken up or let down into the water, first +on one side and then on the other, as the vessel was on different tacks +in beating against the wind.</p> + +<p>Opposite to every place where there was a house over beyond the dike, +there was a line of steps coming down the face of the dike on the hither +side, towards the water, with a little pier, and a boat fastened to it, +below. These little flights of steps, with the piers and the boats, and +the seats under the trees on the top of the dike, and the roofs of the +houses, and the tops of the trees beyond, all looked extremely pretty, +and presented a succession of very peculiar and very charm<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span>ing scenes to +Mr. George and Rollo as the steamer glided rapidly along the shore.</p> + +<p>In some places the dike seemed to widen, so as to make room for houses +upon the top of it. There were snug little taverns, where the captains +and crews of the vessels that were sailing by could stop and refresh +themselves, when wind or tide bound in their vessels, and now and then a +shop or store of some kind, or a row of pretty, though very +queer-looking, cottages. At one place there was a ferry landing. The +ferry house, together with the various buildings appertaining to it, was +on the top of the dike, and a large pier, with a snug and pretty basin +by the side of it, below. There was a flight of stairs leading up from +the pier to the ferry house, and also a winding road for carriages. At +the time that the steamer went by this place, the ferry boat was just +coming in with a carriage on board of it.</p> + +<p>There were a great many wind mills here and there along the dike. Some +were for pumping up water, some for sawing logs, and some for grinding +grain. These wind mills were very large and exceedingly picturesque in +their forms, and in the manner in which they were grouped with the other +buildings connected with them. Rollo wished very much that he could stop +and go on shore and visit some of these wind mills, so as to see how +they looked inside.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span></p> + +<p>At length the vessels and ships seemed to increase in numbers, and Mr. +George said that he thought that they must be approaching a town. Rollo +looked upon the map and found that there was a large town named Dort, +laid down on the shores of the river or branch on which they were +sailing.</p> + +<p>"It is on the other side," said he. "Let us go and see."</p> + +<p>So they both rose from their seats and went round to the other side of +the boat, and there, there suddenly burst upon their view such a maze of +masts, spires, roofs, and wind mills, all mingled together in +promiscuous confusion, as was wonderful to behold. In the centre of the +whole rose one enormous square tower, which seemed to belong to a +cathedral.</p> + +<p>This was Dort, or Dordrecht, as it is often called.</p> + +<p>As the steamer glided rapidly along the shores, and Mr. George and Rollo +attempted to look into the town, they saw not streets, but canals. +Indeed, the whole place seemed just level with the surface of the water, +and far in the interior of it the masts of ships and the roofs of the +houses were mingled together in nearly equal proportion.</p> + +<p>The steamer threaded its way among the fleets<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> of boats and shipping +that lay off the town, and at length came to a stop at a pier. The +passengers destined for this place began to disembark. Mr. George and +Rollo stood together on the deck, looking at the buildings which lined +the quay, and wondering at the quaint and queer forms which every thing +that they saw assumed.</p> + +<p>"I should really like to go ashore here," said Mr. George, "and see what +sort of a place it is."</p> + +<p>"Let us do it, uncle George!" said Rollo, eagerly. "Let us do it!"</p> + +<p>"Only we have paid to Rotterdam," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Never mind," said Rollo. "It will not make much difference."</p> + +<p>But before Mr. George could make up his mind to go on shore, the +exchange of passengers was effected, and the plank was pulled in, the +ropes were cast off, and the steamer once more began to move swiftly +along over the water.</p> + +<p>"It is too late," said Rollo.</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mr. George, "and on the whole it is better for us to go on."</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span><br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span></p> + +<p>In about an hour more the steamer began to draw near to Rotterdam. The +approach to the town was indicated by the multitude of boats and vessels +that were passing to and fro, and by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> the numbers of steamers and wind +mills that lined respectively the margins of the water and of the land. +The wind mills were prodigious in size. They towered high into the air +like so many lighthouses; the tops of the sails, as Mr. George +estimated, reached, as the vanes revolved, up to not less than one +hundred and fifty or two hundred feet into the air. It was necessary to +build them high, in order that the sails might not be becalmed by the +houses.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i081.jpg" width="600" height="363" alt="" title="" /> +<span class="caption">DORT.</span> +</div> + + +<p>At length the steamer stopped at a pier. Two policemen stood at the +plank, as the passengers landed, and demanded their passports. Mr. +George gave up his passport, as he was directed, and then he and Rollo +got into a carriage and were driven to the hotel.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i083.jpg" width="600" height="320" alt="" title="chapter endpiece" /> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Chapter_V" id="Chapter_V"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter V.</span></h2> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Walks About Rotterdam.</span></h3> + + +<p>The hotel where Mr. George and Rollo were set down was a very +magnificent edifice standing on the quay opposite to a line of steamers. +On entering it, both our travellers were struck with the spaciousness of +the hall and of the staircase, and with the sumptuous appearance in +general of the whole interior. They called for a chamber. The +attendants, as they soon found, all understood English, so that there +was no occasion at present to resort to the language of signs, as Mr. +George had supposed might be necessary. In answer to Mr. George's +request to be shown to a room, the servant showed him and Rollo a very +large and lofty apartment, with immense windows in front looking down +upon the pier. On the back side of the room were two single beds.</p> + +<p>"This will do very well for us," said Mr. George.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Will you dine at the table d'hote?"<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> asked the waiter.</p> + + +<p>The table d'hote is the public table.</p> + +<p>"At what time is the table d'hote?" asked Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"At half past four," said the waiter.</p> + +<p>"No," said Mr. George, "we shall want to be out at that time. We will +take something now as soon as we can have it. Can you give us a +beefsteak?"</p> + +<p>"Yes, sir," said the waiter.</p> + +<p>"Very well. Give us a beefsteak and some coffee, and some bread and +butter."</p> + +<p>"Yes, sir," said the waiter. "Will you have two beefsteaks, or one +beefsteak?"</p> + +<p>"Two," said Rollo, in an under tone to Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mr. George, "and coffee for two, also."</p> + +<p>So the waiter left the travellers in their room, and went down stairs. +In about ten minutes Mr. George and Rollo went down too. At the foot of +the grand staircase they turned into the dining room, where they saw +several tables set, and at one of them, near a window, were the +preparations for their meal.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span></p> + +<p>The window looked out upon the quay, and Rollo could see the men at work +getting out hogsheads and bales of goods from a steamer that was moored +there. Besides looking across to the quay, Rollo could also look up and +down the street without putting his head out of the window. The way in +which he was enabled to do this, was by means of looking glasses placed +outside. These looking glasses were attached to an iron frame, and they +were placed in an inclined position, so as to reflect the whole length +of the street in through the window. Thus a person sitting at his ease +within the room, could look up and down the street, as well as across +it, at his pleasure.</p> + +<p>Rollo afterwards observed such looking glasses attached to the windows +of almost all the houses in town.</p> + +<p>The dinner was soon brought in, and Mr. George and Rollo ate it with +excellent appetites. Just as they had finished their meal, a +neatly-dressed young man came to the table and asked them if they wished +for some one to show them about the town.</p> + +<p>"Because," said he, "I am a <i>valet de place</i>, and I can take you at once +to all the places of interest, and save you a great deal of time."</p> + +<p>"How much do you ask to do it?" asked Mr. George.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Five francs a day," said the man.</p> + +<p>"That's right," said Mr. George. "That's the usual price. But we shall +not want you, at least for this afternoon. We may want you to-morrow. We +shall stay in town a day or two."</p> + +<p>The young man said that he should be very happy to serve them if they +should require his services, and then bowed and went away.</p> + +<p>After having finished their meal, Mr. George and Rollo set out to take a +ramble about the town by themselves.</p> + +<p>"We will go in search of adventures," said Rollo.</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mr. George, "and if we lose our way, we shall be likely to +<i>have</i> some adventures, for we cannot speak Dutch to inquire for it."</p> + +<p>"Never mind," said Rollo, "I'm not afraid. We will be careful which way +we go."</p> + +<p>So they went out and took quite a long ramble through the town. The +first aspect of the streets struck them with astonishment. The space was +now more than half filled with docks and basins, and with canals in +which ships and boats of every kind were moving to and fro. In fact +almost every street consisted one half of canal, and one half of road +way, so that in going through it you could have your choice of going in +a boat or in a carriage. The water part of the streets was crowd<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span>ed +densely with vessels, some of them of the largest size, for the water +was so deep in the canals that the largest ships could go all about the +town.</p> + +<p>It was curious to observe the process of loading and unloading these +vessels, opposite to the houses where the merchants who owned them +lived. These houses were very large and handsome. The upper stories were +used for the rooms of the merchant and his family, and the lower ones +were for the storage of the goods. Thus a merchant could sit at his +parlor window with his family about him, could look down upon his ship +in the middle of the street before his house, and see the workmen +unlading it and stowing the goods safely on his own premises, in the +rooms below.</p> + +<p>In some of the streets the canal was in the centre, and there was a road +way along by the houses on each side. In others there was a road way +only on one side, and the walls of the houses and stores rose up +directly from the water's edge on the other. It was curious, in this +case, to see the men in the upper stories of these stores, hoisting +goods up from the vessels below by means of cranes and tackles +projecting from the windows.</p> + +<p>There was one arrangement in the streets which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> Rollo at first +condemned, as decidedly objectionable in his mind, and that was, that +the sidewalks were smooth and level with the pavement of the street, +differing only from the street by being paved with bricks, while the +road way was paved with stone.</p> + +<p>"I think that that is a very foolish plan," said Rollo.</p> + +<p>"I should not have expected so crude a remark as that from so old and +experienced a traveller as you," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Why, uncle George," said Rollo. "It is plainly a great deal better to +have the sidewalk raised a little, for that keeps the wheels of the +carts and carriages from coming upon them. Besides, there ought to be a +gutter."</p> + +<p>"People that have never been away from home before," said Mr. George, +"are very apt, when they first land in any strange country, and observe +any strange or unusual way of doing things, or of making things, to +condemn it at once, and say how much better the thing is in their +country. But I thought that you had travelled enough to know better than +that."</p> + +<p>"How so?" asked Rollo.</p> + +<p>"Why, you see that after people have travelled more, they get their +ideas somewhat enlarged, and they learn that one way of doing things may +be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> best in one country, and another in another, on account of some +difference in the circumstances or the wants of the two countries. So, +when they see any thing done in a new or unusual manner, they don't +condemn it, or laugh at it, until they have had time to find out whether +there may not be some good reason for it."</p> + +<p>"But I don't see," said Rollo, "what possible good reason there can be +for having the sidewalks made so that every cart that comes along can +run over you."</p> + +<p>"And because you don't in a moment see every reason, does that make it +certain that there cannot be any?" said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Why, no," replied Rollo.</p> + +<p>"Then if you had travelled to much purpose," said Mr. George, "you would +suspend your judgment until you had inquired."</p> + +<p>It was not long before Rollo saw what the reason was for making the +sidewalks in this way. Indeed, with a little reflection, he would +probably have thought of it himself.</p> + +<p>The object was to make it easy to wheel and convey the goods from the +ships across to the warehouses. For, as the ships and boats go into +almost all the streets in the town, goods have to be wheeled across +every where, from the margin of the quay to the warehouses of the +merchants,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> and a range of curbstones and gutter would make an obstacle +that would be very much in the way.</p> + +<p>Besides, contrary to Rollo's hastily formed opinion, there ought <i>not</i> +to be any gutters in such a town as this, as far as the streets are +perfectly level, from end to end; if gutters were made the water would +not run in them. The only way to have the rain water carried off, is to +form a gentle slope from the houses straight across the quay to the +margin of the canal, and this requires that the connection between the +sidewalk and the road way should be continuous and even. So that on +every account the plan adopted in Rotterdam is the best for that town.</p> + +<p>I advise all the readers of this book, whether old or young, if they +have not yet had an opportunity to learn wisdom by actual experience in +travelling, to remember the lesson that Rollo learned on this occasion; +and whenever, in their future travels, they find any thing that appears +unusual or strange, not to condemn it too soon, simply because it is +different from what they have been accustomed to at home, but to wait +till they have learned whether there may not be some good cause for the +difference.</p> + +<p>Rollo wished to stop continually, as he and his uncle walked along, to +watch the operations of loading and unloading that were going on +be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span>tween the ships and the warehouses. At one place was a boat loaded +with sails, which had apparently come from a sail maker's. The sails +were rolled up in long rolls, and some people in a loft of a warehouse +near were hoisting them up with tackles, and pulling them in at the +windows.</p> + +<p>At another place two porters were engaged wheeling something in +wheelbarrows across from a slip to the warehouse, stopping by the way at +a little platform to have every wheelbarrow load weighed. One of the +porters wheeled the loads from the ship to the platform, and the other, +after they were weighed, wheeled them to the warehouse. At the platform +sat a man with a little desk before him and a big book upon it, in which +he entered the weight of each load as it came. As soon as the load was +weighed the warehouse porter would take it from the platform, wheel it +across the street to the warehouse, empty it there, and then bring back +the empty wheelbarrow and set it down by the side of the platform. In +the mean time the ship porter would have wheeled another load up to the +platform from the ship, and by the time that the warehouse porter had +come back, it would be weighed and all ready for him. The ship porter, +when he brought the loaded wheelbarrow, would take back to the ship the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> +empty one. The whole operation went on with so much regularity and +system, and it worked so well in keeping all the men employed all the +time, without either having to wait at all for the other, that it was a +pleasure to witness it.</p> + +<p>At another place Mr. George himself, as well as Rollo, was much +interested in seeing the process of tobacco inspection. There were a +number of hogsheads of tobacco, with a party of porters, coopers, +inspectors, and clerks examining them. It was curious to see how rapidly +they would go through the process. The coopers would set a hogshead up +upon its end, knock out the head, loosen all the staves at one end, +whisk it over upon the platform of the scales, and then lift the +hogshead itself entirely off, and set it down on one side, leaving the +tobacco alone, in a great round pile, on the platform. Then when it was +weighed they would tumble it over upon its side, and separate it into +its layers, and the inspectors would take out specimens from all the +different portions of it. Then they would pile up the layers again, and +put the hogshead on over them, as you would put an extinguisher on a +candle; and, finally, after turning it over once more, they would put it +on the head, and bind it all up again tight and secure, with hoop poles +which they nailed in and around it. The porters would then roll the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> +hogshead off, in order to put it on a cart and take it away. The whole +operation was performed with a degree of system, regularity, and +promptness, that was quite surprising. The whole work of opening the +hogshead, examining it thoroughly, weighing it, selecting specimens, and +putting it up again, was accomplished in less time than it has taken me +here to describe it.</p> + +<p>There were a great many other operations of this sort that arrested the +attention of Mr. George and Rollo, as they walked along the streets. +Much of the merchandise which they saw thus landing from the ships, or +going on board of them, was of great value, and the ships in which it +came were of immense size, such as are engaged in the East India trade. +Mr. George said that they were the kind that he had often read about in +history, under the name of Dutch East Indiamen.</p> + +<p>Rollo was very much amused at the signs over the doors of the shops, in +those streets where there were shops, and in the efforts that he made to +interpret them. There was one which read <span class="smcap">Scheep's Victualij</span>, which Mr. +George said must mean victualling for ships. He was helped, however, +somewhat in making this translation by observing what was exhibited in +the windows of the shop, and at the door. There was another in which +Rollo did not require any help to en<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span>able him to translate it. It was +<span class="smcap">Tabak, Koffy, und Thee</span>. Another at first perplexed him. It was this: +<span class="smcap">Huis und Scheep's Smedery</span>. But by seeing that the place was a sort of +blacksmith's shop, Rollo concluded that it must mean house and ship +smithery, that is, that it was a place for blacksmith's work for houses +and ships.</p> + +<p>Over one of the doors was <span class="smcap">Oosterhouts und Breda's Bier Huis</span>. Mr. George +said that Breda was a place not far from Rotterdam, and that the last +part of the sign must mean house for selling Breda beer. Rollo then +concluded that the first word must mean something connected with +oysters. There was another, <span class="smcap">Koffer en Zadel Makerij</span>. At first Rollo +could not make any thing of this; but on looking at the window he saw a +painting of a horse's head, with a handsome bridle upon it, and a saddle +on one side. So he concluded it must mean a trunk and saddle makery. He +was the more convinced of the correctness of this from the fact that the +word for trunk or box, in French, is <i>coffre</i>.</p> + +<p>Rollo amused himself a long time in interpreting in this way the signs +that he saw in the streets, and he succeeded so well in it that he told +Mr. George that he believed he could learn the Dutch language very +easily, if he were going to stay for any considerable time in Holland.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span></p> + +<p>Another thing that amused Rollo very much, was to see the wooden shoes +that were worn by the common people in the streets. These shoes appeared +to Rollo to be very large and clumsy; but even the little children wore +them, and the noise that they made, clattering about the pavements with +them, was very amusing.</p> + +<p>In a great many places where the streets intersected each other, there +were bridges leading across the canals. These bridges were of a very +curious construction. They were all draw bridges, and as boats and +vessels were continually passing and repassing along the canals, it +became frequently necessary to raise them, in order to let the vessels +go through. The machinery for raising these bridges and letting them +down again, was very curious; and Rollo and Mr. George were both glad, +when, in coming to the bridge, they found it was up, as it gave them an +opportunity to watch the manœuvre of passing the vessel through.</p> + +<p>Every boat and vessel that went through had a toll to pay, and the +manner of collecting this toll was not the least singular part of the +whole procedure. While the bridge was up, and when the boat had passed +nearly through, the helmsman, or helmswoman, as the case might be,—for +one half the boats and vessels seemed to be steered by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> women,—would +get the money ready; and then the tollman, who stood on the abutment of +the bridge, would swing out to the boat one of the wooden shoes above +described, which was suspended by a long line from the end of a pole, +like a fishing pole. The tollman would swing out this shoe over the boat +that was passing through, as a boy would swing his hook and sinker out +over the water if he were going to catch fish. The helmsman in the boat +would take hold of it when it came within his reach, and put the money +into the toe of it. The tollman would then draw it in, and, taking out +the money, would carry it to his toll house, which was a small building, +not much bigger than a sentry box that stood on the pier close by.</p> + +<p>In one case Rollo came to a bridge, which, instead of being made to be +raised entirely, had only a very narrow part in the centre, just wide +enough for the masts and rigging of the ship to go through, that could +be moved. When this part was lifted up to let a vessel pass, it made +only a very narrow opening, such as a boy might jump across very easily.</p> + +<p>In some places where the passing and repassing of ships was very great, +there was a ferry instead of a bridge. In these cases there was a +flat-bottomed boat to pass to and from one side<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> to the other, with a +pretty little landing of stone steps at each end. Rollo was much +entertained by these ferries. He said it was crossing a street by water. +And it was exactly that, and no more. The place where he first crossed +one of these ferries was precisely like a broad street of water, with +ships and boats going to and fro upon it, instead of carriages, and a +very wide brick sidewalk on each side. The ferry was at the crossing, at +the place where another street intersected it.</p> + +<p>As the houses on each side of these streets were very large and +handsome, and as there were rows of beautiful trees on the margin of the +water, and as every thing about the water, and the ships, and the quays, +and the sidewalks, was kept very neat and clean, the whole view, as it +presented itself to Rollo and Mr. George while they were crossing in the +boat, was exceedingly attractive and exciting.</p> + +<p>Mr. George and Rollo remained in Rotterdam several days before they were +satisfied with the curious and wonderful spectacles which it presented +to view. In one of their walks they made the entire circuit of the town, +and Mr. George agreed with Rollo in the opinion that this was one of the +most interesting walks they had ever taken.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i099.jpg" width="600" height="363" alt="" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE FERRY BOAT.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span></p> + + +<p>The way led along a smooth and beautiful road, which was neatly paved, +and kept very nice and clean. On the right hand side there extended +along the whole length of it a wide canal, with boats all the time going +to and fro. This canal looked brimming full. The water, in fact, came up +within a few inches of the level of the road. The line of the road was +formed by a smooth and straight margin of stone,—like the margin of a +fountain,—with little platforms extending out here and there, where +neatly-dressed girls and women were washing.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span></p> + +<p>On the other side of the road, down ten feet or more below the level of +it, was a range of houses, with yards, gardens, and fields about them. +The way to these houses was by paths leading down from the dike on which +the road was built, and across little bridges built over a small canal +which extended between them and the dike. This small canal was for the +draining of the land on which the houses stood. The water in this canal +had a gentle flow towards the end of the street, where there was a wind +mill to pump it up into the great canal on the other side of the street.</p> + +<p>As Rollo and Mr. George walked along this road, it was very curious to +them to see the water on one side so much higher than the land on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> the +other. At the intervals between the houses they obtained glimpses of the +interior of the country, which consisted of level fields lying far below +where they were standing, and intersected in every direction by small +canals, which served the purpose at the same time of fences, roads, and +drains. There seemed to be no other divisions than these between the +lands of the different proprietors, and no other roads for bringing home +the hay or grain, or other produce which might be raised in the fields.</p> + +<p>In pursuing their walk around the town, our travellers were continually +coming to objects so curious in their construction and use, as to arrest +their attention and cause them to stop and examine them. At one place +they saw a little ferry boat, which looked precisely like a little +floating room. It was square, and had a roof over it like a house, with +seats for the passengers below. This boat plied to and fro across the +canal, by means of a rope fastened to each shore, and running over +pulleys in the boat.</p> + +<p>"We might take this ferry boat," said Mr. George, "and go across the +canal into the town again. See, it lands opposite to one of the +streets."</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Rollo, "but I would rather keep on, and go all around the +town outside."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span></p> + +<p>"We might go over in the ferry boat just for the fun of it," said Mr. +George, "and then come back again."</p> + +<p>"Well," said Rollo. "How much do you suppose the toll is?"</p> + +<p>"I don't know," said Mr. George. "It can't be much, it is such a small +boat, and goes such a little way; and then, besides, I know it must be +cheap, or else there could not so many of these girls and women go back +and forth."</p> + +<p>For while they had been looking at the boat, as they gradually +approached the spot, they had seen it pass to and fro with many +passengers, who, though they were very neatly dressed, were evidently by +no means wealthy or fashionable people.</p> + +<p>So Mr. George and Rollo went to the margin of the road where the ferry +boat had its little landing place, and when it came up they stepped on +board. The ferryman could only talk Dutch, and so Mr. George could not +ask him what was to pay. The only thing to be done was to give him a +piece of silver, and let him give back such change as he pleased. Mr. +George gave him a piece of money about as big as half a franc, and he +got back so much change in return that he said he felt richer than he +did before.</p> + +<p>At another place they came to a bridge that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> led across the canal. This +bridge turned on a pivot placed out near the middle of the canal, so +that it could be moved out of the way when there was a boat to go by. A +man was turning it when Mr. George and Rollo came along. They stopped to +witness the operation. They were quite amused, not merely with the +manœuvring of the bridge, but with the form and appearance of the +boat that was going through. It seemed to be half boat and half house. +There was a room built in it, which rose somewhat above the deck, and +showed several little windows with pretty curtains to them. There was a +girl sitting at one of these windows, knitting, and two or three +children were playing about the deck at the time that the boat was going +through the bridge.</p> + +<p>Farther on the party came to an immense wind mill, which was employed in +pumping up water. This wind mill, like most of the others, was built of +brick. It rose to a vast height into the air, and there its immense +sails were slowly revolving. The wind mill was forty or fifty feet in +diameter at the base, and midway between the base and the summit was a +platform built out, that extended all around it. The sails of the mill, +as they revolved, only extended down to this platform, and the platform +itself was above<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> the roofs of the four-story houses that stood near.</p> + +<p>At the foot of this wind mill Mr. George and Rollo could see the water +running in under it, through a sluice way which led from a low canal, +and on the other side they could see it pouring out in a great torrent, +into a higher one.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>Besides making this circuit around the town, Mr. George and Rollo one +evening took a walk in the environs, on a road which led along on the +top of a dike. The dike was very broad, and the descent from it to the +low land on each side was very gradual. On the slopes on each side, and +along the margin on the top, were rows of immense trees, that looked as +if they had been growing for centuries. The branches of these trees met +overhead, so as to exclude the sun entirely. They made the road a +deeply-shaded avenue, and gave to the whole scene a very sombre and +solemn expression. On each side of the road, down upon the low land +which formed the general level of the country, were a succession of +country houses, the summer residences of the rich merchants of +Rotterdam. These houses were beautifully built; and they were surrounded +with grounds ornamented in the highest degree. There were winding +walks,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> and serpentine canals, and beds of flowers, and pretty bridges, +and summer houses, and groves of trees, and every thing else that can +add to the beauty of a summer retreat.</p> + +<p>All these scenes Mr. George and Rollo looked down upon as they sauntered +slowly along the smooth sidewalk of the dike, under the majestic trees +which shaded it. The place where they were walking on the dike was on a +level with the second story windows of the houses.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i106.jpg" width="600" height="483" alt="" title="chapter endpiece" /> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Chapter_VI" id="Chapter_VI"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter VI.</span></h2> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Doing the Hague.</span></h3> + + +<p>"And now what is the next place that we shall come to?" said Rollo to +Mr. George one morning after they had been some days in Rotterdam.</p> + +<p>"The Hague," replied Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Ah, yes," said Rollo, "that is the capital. We shall stop there a good +while I suppose, because it is the capital."</p> + +<p>"No," said Mr. George, "I shall go through it just as quick as I can for +that very reason. I have a great mind not to stop there at all."</p> + +<p>"Why, uncle George!" exclaimed Rollo, surprised, "what do you mean by +that?"</p> + +<p>"Why, the Hague," rejoined Mr. George, "is the place where the king +lives, and the princes, and the foreign ambassadors, and all the +fashionable people; and there will be nothing to see there, I expect, +but palaces, and picture galleries, and handsome streets, and such +things, all of which we can see more of and better in Paris or London."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Still we want to see what sort of a place the Hague is," said Rollo.</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mr. George, "and I expect to do that in a very short time, +and then I shall go on to Haarlem, where they have had such a time with +their pumping."</p> + +<p>Mr. George and Rollo packed up their valise, paid their bill at the +hotel, and set off for the station.</p> + +<p>"Let's go to the station by water," said Rollo.</p> + +<p>"Well," said Mr. George, "if you will engage a boat."</p> + +<p>"I know a place not far from here where there is a boat station," said +Rollo.</p> + +<p>So Rollo led the way until they came to a bridge, and there, by the side +of the bridge, were some stairs leading down to the water. There were +several boats lying at the foot of the stairs, and boatmen near, who all +called out in Dutch, "Do you want a boat?" At least that was what Rollo +supposed they said, though, of course, he could not understand their +language. Rollo walked down the steps, and got into one of the boats, +and Mr. George followed him.</p> + +<p>"I can't speak Dutch," said Rollo to the boatman, "but that is the way +we want to go." So saying, Rollo pointed in the direction which led +towards the station. The man did not under<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span>stand a word that Rollo had +said; but still, by hearing it, he learned the fact that Rollo did not +speak the language of the country, and by his signs he knew that he must +go the way that he pointed. So he began to row the boat along.</p> + +<p>"We cannot go quite to the station by the boat," said Rollo, "but we can +go pretty near it, and we can walk the rest of the way."</p> + +<p>"How will you find out the way," asked Mr. George, "through all these +canals?"</p> + +<p>"I can tell by the map," said Rollo.</p> + +<p>So Rollo sat down on a seat at the stern of the boat, and taking out his +map, which was printed on a pocket handkerchief, he spread it on his +knee, and began to study out the canals.</p> + +<p>"There," said he, "we are going along this canal, now; and there, a +little way ahead from here, is a bridge that we shall go under. Then we +shall make a turn," continued Rollo, still studying his map. "We shall +have to go a very round-about way; but that is no matter."</p> + +<p>So they went on, Rollo at each turn pointing to the boatman which way he +was to go. Sometimes the boat was stopped for a time by a jam in the +boats and vessels before it, as a hack might be stopped in Broadway in +New York. Sometimes it went under bridges, and sometimes through dark +archways, where Rollo could hear<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> carriages rumbling over his head in +the streets above.</p> + +<p>At length the boat reached the point which Rollo thought was nearest to +the station; and the man, at a signal which Rollo gave him, stopped at +some steps. Rollo paid the fare by holding out a handful of money in his +hand, and letting the man take what was right, watching him, however, to +see that he did not take too much.</p> + +<p>Then Mr. George and Rollo both went ashore, and walked the rest of the +way to the station.</p> + +<p>In the European railroad stations there are different waiting rooms for +the different classes of travellers. Mr. George sometimes took second +class carriages, and sometimes first. For short distances he generally +went first class, and as it was only a few miles to the Hague from +Rotterdam, he now went into the first class waiting room. There was a +counter for refreshment in one corner of the room, and some sofas along +the sides. Mr. George sat down upon one of the sofas, putting his valise +on the floor at the end of it. Rollo said that he would go out and take +a little walk around the station, for it was yet half an hour before the +train was to go.</p> + +<p>In a few minutes after Rollo had gone, there came to the door, among +other carriages, one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> from which Mr. George, to his great surprise, saw +Mr. and Mrs. Parkman get out. Mr. George's first thought was to go out +by another door, and make his escape. But he checked this impulse, +saying to himself,</p> + +<p>"It would be very ungenerous in me to abandon my old friend in his +misfortune; so I will stay."</p> + +<p>Mr. Parkman seemed very much delighted, as well as surprised, to see Mr. +George again; and Mrs. Parkman gave him quite a cordial greeting, +although she half suspected that Mr. George did not like her very well.</p> + +<p>Mr. George asked her how she liked Holland, so far as she had seen it.</p> + +<p>"Not much," said she. "The towns are not pretty. The streets are all +full of canals, and there is nothing to be seen but boats and ships. And +what ugly wooden shoes they wear. Did you ever see any thing so ugly in +all your life?"</p> + +<p>"They look pretty big and clumsy," said Mr. George, "I must admit; but +it amuses me to see them."</p> + +<p>"At the Hague I expect to find something worth seeing," continued Mrs. +Parkman. "That's where the king and all the great people live, and all +the foreign ambassadors. If William had only got letters of introduction +to some of them!<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> He might have got them just as well as not. Our +minister at London would have given him some if he had asked for them. +But he said he did not like to ask for them."</p> + +<p>"Strange!" said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Yes," rejoined Mrs. Parkman, "I think it is not only strange, but +foolish. I want to go to some of the parties at the Hague, but we can't +stop. William says we can only give one day to the Hague."</p> + +<p>"O, you can do it up quite well in one day," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"If you would only go with us and show us how to do it," said Mrs. +Parkman.</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mr. Parkman. "Do, George. Go with us. Join us for one day. +I'll put the whole party entirely under your command, and you shall have +every thing your own way."</p> + +<p>Mr. George did not know what to reply to this proposition. At last he +said that he would go and find Rollo, and consult him on the subject, +and if Rollo approved of it they would consent to the arrangement.</p> + +<p>Mrs. Parkman laughed at hearing this. "Why," said she, "is it possible +that you are under that boy's direction?"</p> + +<p>"Not exactly that," said Mr. George. "But then he is my travelling +companion, and it is not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> right for one person, in such a case, to make +any great change in the plan without at least first hearing what the +other has to say about it."</p> + +<p>"That's very true," replied Mrs. Parkman. "Do you hear that, William? +You must remember that when you are going to change the plans without +asking my consent."</p> + +<p>Mrs. Parkman said this in a good-natured way, as if she meant it in +joke. It was one of those cases where people say what they wish to have +considered as meant in a joke, but to be taken in earnest.</p> + +<p>Mr. George went out to look for Rollo. He found him lying on the grass +by the side of a small canal which flowed through the grounds, and +reaching down to the water to gather some curious little plants that +were growing upon it. Mr. George informed him that Mr. and Mrs. Parkman +were at the station, and that they had proposed that he himself and +Rollo should join their party in seeing the Hague.</p> + +<p>"And I suppose you don't want to do it," said Rollo.</p> + +<p>"Why, yes," said Mr. George, "I've taken a notion to accept the proposal +if you like it. We'll then do the Hague in style, and I shall get back +into Mrs. Parkman's good graces. Then we will bid them good by, and +after that you and I will travel on in our own way."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Well," said Rollo, "<i>I</i> agree to it."</p> + +<p>Mr. George accordingly went back into the station, and told Mr. and Mrs. +Parkman that he and Rollo would accept their invitation, and join with +them in seeing what there was in the Hague.</p> + +<p>"And then, after that," said Mr. George, "we shall come back to Delft, +while you go on to Amsterdam."</p> + +<p>"I wish you would go on with us," said Mr. Parkman.</p> + +<p>"We can't do that very well," said Mr. George. "We want to try a Dutch +canal once, and a good place to try it is in going from the Hague to +Delft. It is only about four or five miles. We are going there by the +canal boat, and then coming back on foot."</p> + +<p>Mr. George had taken care in planning the course which he and Rollo were +to pursue after leaving the Hague, to contrive an expedition which he +was very sure Mrs. Parkman would not wish to join in.</p> + +<p>"O, Mr. George!" she exclaimed, "what pleasure can there be in going on +a canal?"</p> + +<p>"Why, the canal boats are so funny!" said Rollo. "And then we see such +curious little places all along the banks of them, and we meet so many +boats, carrying all sorts of things."</p> + +<p>"I don't think it would be very agreeable for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> a lady," said Mr. George; +"but Rollo and I thought we should like to try it."</p> + +<p>Just at this moment the door leading to the platform opened, and a man +dressed in a sort of uniform, denoting that he was an officer of the +railroad, called out in Dutch that the train was coming. The ladies and +gentlemen that were assembled in the waiting room immediately took up +their bags and bundles, and went out upon the platform. As they went +out, Mr. George, in passing the man in uniform, slipped a piece of money +into his hand, and said to him in an under tone, first in French and +then in English,—</p> + +<p>"A good seat by a window for this lady."</p> + +<p>The officer received the money, made a bow of assent, and immediately +seemed to take the whole party under his charge. When the train arrived, +and had stopped before the place, there was a great crowd among the new +passengers to get in and procure seats. The officer beckoned to Mr. +George to follow him, but Mrs. Parkman seemed disposed to go another +way. She was looking eagerly about here and there among the carriages, +as if the responsibility of finding seats for the party devolved upon +her.</p> + +<p>"What shall we do?" said she. "The cars are all full."</p> + +<p>"Leave it to me," said Mr. George to her in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> an under tone. "Leave it +entirely to me. You'll see presently."</p> + +<p>The officer, finding the carriages generally full, said to Mr. George, +in French, "Wait a moment, sir." So Mr. George said to the rest of the +party—</p> + +<p>"We will all stand quietly here. He'll come to us presently."</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mrs. Parkman, "when all the seats are taken. We shan't get +seats at all, William."</p> + +<p>"You'll see," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>In a moment more the officer came to the party, and bowing respectfully +to Mrs. Parkman, he said,</p> + +<p>"Now, madam."</p> + +<p>He took out a key from his pocket, and unlocked the door of a carriage +which had not before been opened, and standing aside, he bowed to let +Mrs. Parkman pass.</p> + +<p>Mrs. Parkman was delighted. There was nobody in the carriage, and so she +had her choice of the seats. She chose one next the window on the +farther side. Her husband took the seat opposite to her.</p> + +<p>"Ah!" said she, with a tone of great satisfaction, "how nice this is! +And what a gentlemanly conductor! I never had the conductor treat me so +politely in my life."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span></p> + +<p>Mrs. Parkman was put in excellent humor by this incident, and she said, +towards the end of the journey, that she should have had a delightful +ride if the country had not been so flat and uninteresting. To Mr. +George and Rollo, who sat at the other window, it appeared extremely +interesting, there was so much that was curious and novel to be seen. +The immense green fields, with herds of cattle and flocks of sheep +feeding every where, and separated from each other by straight and +narrow canals instead of fences; the boats passing to and fro, loaded +with produce; the little bridges built over these canals here and there, +for the foot paths, with the gates across them to keep the cattle from +going over; the long road ways raised upon dikes, and bordered by +quadruple rows of ancient and venerable trees, stretching to a boundless +distance across the plains; and now and then a wide canal, with large +boats or vessels passing to and fro,—these and a multitude of other +such sights, to be seen in no other country in the world, occupied their +attention all the time, and kept them constantly amused.</p> + +<p>At length the train arrived at the station for the Hague, and the whole +party descended from the carriage.</p> + +<p>"Now, William," said Mr. George, "give me<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> the ticket for your trunk, +and you yourself take Mrs. Parkman into the waiting room and wait till I +come."</p> + +<p>"No," said Mr. Parkman, "I cannot let you take that trouble."</p> + +<p>"Certainly," said Mr. George. "You said that I should have the entire +command. Give me the ticket."</p> + +<p>So Mr. Parkman gave him the ticket, and Mr. George went out. Rollo +remained with Mr. and Mrs. Parkman. In a few minutes Mr. George +returned, and said that the carriage was ready. They all went to the +door, and there they found a carriage waiting, with Mr. and Mrs. +Parkman's trunk upon the top of it. A man was holding the door open for +the party to get in. As soon as they had all entered, Mr. George put a +few coppers into the hand of the man at the door, and said to him,</p> + +<p>"Hotel Belview."<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></p> + + +<p>"<span class="smcap">Hotel Belview</span>!" shouted the man to the coachman. On hearing this +command the coachman drove on.</p> + +<p>The road that led into the town lay along the banks of a canal, and +after going about half a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> mile in this direction, the horses turned and +went over a bridge. They were now in the heart of the town, but the +party could not see much, for the night was coming on and the sky was +cloudy. It was cold, too, and Mrs. Parkman wished to have the windows +closed. The carriage went along a narrow street, crossing bridges +occasionally, until at length it came to a region of palaces, and parks, +and grounds beautifully ornamented. Finally it stopped before a large +and very handsome hotel. The hotel stood in a street which had large and +beautiful houses and gardens on one side, and an open park, with deer +feeding on the borders of a canal, on the other.</p> + +<p>Two or three very nicely dressed servants came out when the carriage +stopped, and opened the door of it in a very assiduous and deferential +manner.</p> + +<p>"Wait here in the carriage," said Mr. George, "till I come."</p> + +<p>So saying, he himself descended from the carriage, and went into the +house, followed by two of the waiters that had come to the door.</p> + +<p>In about two minutes he came out again.</p> + +<p>"Yes," said he to Mrs. Parkman, "I think you will like the rooms."</p> + +<p>So saying, he helped Mrs. Parkman out of the carriage, and gave her his +arm to conduct her<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> into the house. At the same time he said to one of +the waiters,—</p> + +<p>"See that every thing is taken out of the carriage, and pay the +coachman."</p> + +<p>"Very well, sir," said the waiter.</p> + +<p>Mr. George led Mrs. Parkman up a broad and handsome staircase. He was +preceded by one waiter and followed by two others. These waiters had +taken every thing from the hands of the party, especially from Mrs. +Parkman, so that they were loaded with bags, cloaks, and umbrellas, +while the travellers themselves had nothing to carry.</p> + +<p>At the head of the staircase the waiter, who was in advance, opened a +door which led to a large drawing room or parlor, which was very +handsomely decorated and furnished. The windows were large, and they +looked out upon a handsome garden, though it was now too dark to see it +very distinctly.</p> + +<p>As Mrs. Parkman turned round again, after trying to look out at the +window, she saw a second waiter coming into the room, bringing with him +two tall wax candles in silver candlesticks. The candles had just been<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span> +lighted. The waiter placed them on the table, and then retired.</p> + +<p>"And now," said Mr. George to the other waiter, "we want a good fire +made here, and then let us have dinner as soon as you can."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i122.jpg" width="600" height="352" alt="" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE DINNER.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Very well, sir," replied the waiter; and so saying he bowed +respectfully and retired.</p> + +<p>A neatly-dressed young woman, in a very picturesque and pretty cap, had +come into the room with the party, and while Mr. George had been +ordering the fire and the dinner, she had shown Mrs. Parkman to her +bedroom, which was a beautiful and richly furnished room with two single +beds in it, opening out of the parlor. On the other side of the parlor +was another bedroom, also with two beds in it, for Mr. George and +Rollo.<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a></p> + + +<p>Mr. and Mrs. Parkman remained in their room for a time, and when they +came out they found the table set for dinner, and a very pleasant fire +burning in the grate.</p> + +<p>"Mr. George," said she, "I wish we had you to make arrangements for us +all the time."</p> + +<p>"It would be a very pleasant duty," said Mr. George. "You are so easily +satisfied."</p> + +<p>Mrs. Parkman seemed much pleased with this compliment. She did not for a +moment doubt that she fully deserved it.</p> + +<p>About eight o'clock that evening, Mr. George<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> asked Mrs. Parkman at what +time she would like to have breakfast the next morning.</p> + +<p>"At any time you please," said she; "that is, if it is not too early."</p> + +<p>"How would half past nine do?" asked Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"I think that will do very well," said Mrs. Parkman.</p> + +<p>"We will say ten, if you prefer," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"O, no," said she, "half past nine will do very well."</p> + +<p>So Mr. George rang the bell, and when the waiter came, he ordered a +sumptuous breakfast, consisting of beefsteaks, hot rolls, coffee, +omelet, and every thing else that he could think of that was good, and +directed the waiter to have it ready at half past nine.</p> + +<p>"I shall also want a carriage and a pair of horses to-morrow," continued +Mr. George, "and a commissioner."</p> + +<p>"Very well, sir," said the waiter; "and what time shall you wish for the +carriage?"</p> + +<p>"What time, Mrs. Parkman?" repeated Mr. George, turning to the lady. +"Shall you be ready by half past ten to go out and see the town?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mrs. Parkman, "that will be a very good time."</p> + +<p>"Very well, sir," said the waiter; and he bowed and retired.</p> + +<p>The next morning, when the different members of the party came out into +the breakfast room, they found the table set for breakfast. At half past +nine all were ready except Mrs. Parkman. She sent word by her husband +that she would come out in a few minutes.</p> + +<p>"There is no hurry," said Mr. George. "It will be time enough to have +breakfast when she comes."</p> + +<p>In about fifteen minutes she came. Mr. George asked her very politely +how she had spent the night; and after she had sat a few minutes talking +by the fire, he said that they would have breakfast whenever she wished.</p> + +<p>"Yes," said she, "I am ready any time. Indeed, I was afraid that I +should be late, and keep you waiting. I am very glad that I am in +season."</p> + +<p>So Mr. George rang the bell; when the waiter came, he ordered breakfast +to be brought up.</p> + +<p>While the party were at breakfast, a very nicely-dressed waiter, with a +white napkin over his arm, stood behind Mrs. Parkman's chair, and +evinced a great deal of alertness and alacrity in offering her every +thing that she required. When<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> the breakfast was nearly finished, Mr. +George turned to him and said,—</p> + +<p>"Is the commissioner ready, John, who is to go with us to-day?"</p> + +<p>"Yes, sir," said the waiter.</p> + +<p>"I wish you to go down and send him up," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>So the waiter went down stairs to find the commissioner, and while he +was gone Mr. George took out a pencil and paper from his pocket.</p> + +<p>"I am going to ask him," said Mr. George to Mrs. Parkman, "what there is +to be seen here, and to make a list of the places; and then we will go +and see them all, or you can make a selection, just as you please."</p> + +<p>"Very well," said Mrs. Parkman. "I should like that."</p> + +<p>Accordingly, when the commissioner came in, Mr. George asked him to +name, in succession, the various objects of interest usually visited by +travellers coming to the Hague; and as he named them, Mr. George +questioned him respecting them, so as to enable Mrs. Parkman to obtain a +somewhat definite idea of what they were. The commissioner enumerated a +variety of places to be seen, such as the public museum of painting, +several private museums, the old palace, the new palace, two or three +churches,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> the town hall, and various other sights which tourists, +arriving at the Hague, usually like to view. Mr. George made a list of +all these, and opposite to each he marked the time which the +commissioner said would be required to see it well. After completing +this list, he said,—</p> + +<p>"And there is a great watering place on the sea shore, not far from +this, I believe."</p> + +<p>"Yes, sir," said the commissioner, "about three miles."</p> + +<p>"Is it a pleasant ride there?" asked Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Yes, sir," replied the commissioner. "It is a <i>very</i> pleasant ride. You +can go one way and return another. It is a very fashionable place. The +queen and the princesses go there every summer."</p> + +<p>"Very well; it takes about two hours and a half, I suppose, to go there +and return," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Yes, sir," said the commissioner.</p> + +<p>"Very well," said Mr. George. "Have the carriage ready in—— Shall we +say half an hour, Mrs. Parkman? Shall you be ready in half an hour?"</p> + +<p>Mrs. Parkman said that she should be ready in half an hour, and so Mr. +George appointed that time, and then the commissioner went away.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span></p> + +<p>Mr. George added up all the periods of time that the commissioner had +said would be required for the several sights, and found that there +would be time for them to see the whole, and yet be ready for the +afternoon train for Amsterdam, where Mr. and Mrs. Parkman were going +next. So Mrs. Parkman concluded not to omit any from the list, but to go +and see the whole.</p> + +<p>In half an hour the carriage was at the door, and in ten or fifteen +minutes afterwards Mrs. Parkman was ready. Just before they went, Mr. +George rang the bell again, and called for the bill, requesting the +waiter to see that every thing was charged—carriage, servants, +commissioner, and all. When it came, Mr. Parkman took out his purse, +expecting to pay it himself, but Mr. George took out his purse too.</p> + +<p>"The amount," said Mr. George, looking at the footing of the bill, "is +forty-five guilders and some cents. Your share is, say twenty-two +guilders and a half."</p> + +<p>"No, indeed," said Mr. Parkman. "My share is the exact footing of the +bill. You have nothing to do with this payment."</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mr. George. "I have just one half to pay for Rollo and me. +We are four in all, and Rollo and I are two."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span></p> + +<p>Mr. Parkman seemed extremely unwilling to allow Mr. George to pay any +thing at all; but Mr. George insisted upon it, and so the bill was paid +by a joint contribution.</p> + +<p>All this time the carriage was ready at the door, and the gentlemen, +attended by two or three waiters, conducted Mrs. Parkman down to the +door. The party then drove, in succession, to the various places which +the commissioner had enumerated. There were museums consisting of a +great many rooms filled with paintings, and palaces, where they were +shown up grand staircases, and through long corridors, and into suites +of elegant apartments, and churches, and beautiful parks and gardens, +and a bazaar filled with curiosities from China and Japan, and a great +many other similar places. Mr. George paid very particular attention to +Mrs. Parkman during the whole time, and made every effort to anticipate +and comply with her wishes in all respects. In one case, indeed, I think +he went too far in this compliance, and the result was to mortify her +not a little. It was in one of the museums of paintings. Mrs. Parkman, +like other ladies of a similar character to hers, always wanted to go +where she could not go, and to see what she could not see. If, when she +came into a town, she heard of any place to which, for any reason,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> it +was difficult to obtain admission, that was the very place of all others +that she wished most to see; and if, in any museum, or palace, or +library that she went into, there were two doors open and one shut, she +would neglect the open ones, and make directly to the one that was shut, +and ask to know what there was there. I do not know as there was any +thing particularly blameworthy in this. On the contrary, such a feeling +may be considered, in some respects, a very natural one in a lady. But, +nevertheless, when it manifests itself in a decided form, it makes the +lady a very uncomfortable and vexatious companion to the gentleman who +has her under his care.</p> + +<p>In one of the rooms where our party went in the museum of paintings, +there was a door near one corner that was shut. All the other +doors—those which communicated with the several apartments where the +pictures were hung—were open. As soon as Mrs. Parkman came in sight of +the closed door, she pointed to it and said,—</p> + +<p>"I wonder what there is in that room. I suppose it is something very +choice. I wish we could get in."</p> + +<p>Mr. Parkman paid, at first, no attention to this request, but continued +to look at the pictures around him.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span></p> + +<p>"I wish you would ask some of the attendants," she continued, "whether +we cannot go into that room."</p> + +<p>"O, no," replied her husband. "If it was any thing that it was intended +we should see, the door would be open. The fact that the door is shut is +notice enough that, we are not to go in there."</p> + +<p>"I'm convinced there are some choice pictures in there," said Mrs. +Parkman; "something that they do not show to every body. Mr. George, I +wish you would see if you can't find out some way to get in."</p> + +<p>"Certainly," said Mr. George, "I will try."</p> + +<p>So Mr. George walked along towards one of the attendants, whom he saw in +another part of the room,—putting his hand in his pocket as he went, to +feel for a piece of money. He put the piece of money into the +attendant's hand, and then began to talk with him, asking various +indifferent questions about the building; and finally he asked him where +that closed door led to.</p> + +<p>"O, that is only a closet," said the attendant, "where we keep our +brooms and dusters."</p> + +<p>"I wish you would just let us look into it," said Mr. George. "Here's +half a guilder for you."</p> + +<p>The man looked a little surprised, but he took the half guilder, +saying,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span>—</p> + +<p>"Certainly, if it will afford you any satisfaction."</p> + +<p>Mr. George then went back to where he had left the rest of his party, +and said to Mrs. Parkman,—</p> + +<p>"This man is going to admit us to that room. Follow Him. I will come in +a moment."</p> + +<p>So Mr. George stopped to look at a large painting on the wall, while +Mrs. Parkman, with high anticipations of the pleasure she was to enjoy +in seeing what people in general were excluded from, walked in a proud +and stately manner to the door, and when the man opened it, saw only a +small, dark room, with nothing in it but brooms, dust pans, and lamp +fillers. She was exceedingly abashed by this adventure, and for the rest +of that day she did not once ask to see any thing that was not +voluntarily shown to her.</p> + +<p>After visiting all the places of note in the town, the coachman was +ordered to drive to the watering place on the sea shore. It was a very +pleasant drive of about three miles. Just before reaching the shore of +the sea, the road came to a region of sand hills, called <i>dunes</i>, formed +by the drifting sands blown in from the beach by the winds. Among these +dunes, and close to the sea shore, was an immense hotel, with long wings +stretching a hundred feet on each side, and a row<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span> of bath vans on the +margin of the beach before it. The beach was low and shelving, and it +could be traced for miles in either direction along the coast, whitened +by the surf that was rolling in from the German Ocean.</p> + +<p>After looking at this prospect for a time, and watching to see one or +two of the bathing vans drive down into the surf, in order to allow +ladies who had got into them to bathe, the party returned to the +carriage, and the coachman drove them through the village, which was +very quaint and queer, and inhabited by fishermen. The fishing boats +were drawn up on the shore in great numbers, very near the houses. Rollo +desired very much to go and see these boats and the fishermen, and +learn, if he could, what kind of fish they caught in them, and how they +caught them. But Mrs. Parkman thought that they had better not stop. +They were nothing but common fishing boats, she said.</p> + +<p>The carriage returned to the Hague by a different road from the one in +which it came. It was a road that led through a beautiful wood, where +there were many pleasant walks, with curious looking Dutch women going +and coming. As the party approached the town, they passed through a +region of parks, and palaces, and splendid mansions of all kinds. Mrs. +Parkman was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span> curious to know who lived in each house, and Mr. George +contrived to communicate her inquiries to the coachman, by making signs, +and by asking questions partly in English and partly in German. But +though the coachman understood the questions, Mrs. Parkman could not +understand the answers that he gave, for they were Dutch +names,—sometimes long and sometimes short; but whether they were long +or short, the sounds were so uncouth and strange that Mrs. Parkman +looked terribly distressed in trying to make them out.</p> + +<p>At length the carriage arrived at the hotel again; and there the porters +put on the baggage belonging both to Mr. and Mrs. Parkman, and to Mr. +George and Rollo. It then proceeded to the station. Mr. George and Rollo +waited there until the train for Amsterdam arrived, and then took leave +of Mr. and Mrs. Parkman as they went to their seats in the carriage. +Mrs. Parkman shook hands with Mr. George very cordially, and said,—</p> + +<p>"We are very much obliged to you, Mr. George, for your company to-day. +We have had a very pleasant time. I wish that we could have you to +travel with us all the time."</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>"I think she ought to be obliged to you," said Rollo, as soon as the +train had gone.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Not at all," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Not at all?" repeated Rollo. "Why not? You have done a great deal for +her to-day."</p> + +<p>"No," said Mr. George. "All that I have done has not been for her sake, +but for William's. William is an excellent good friend of mine, and I am +very sorry that he has not got a more agreeable travelling companion."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i135.jpg" width="600" height="456" alt="" title="chapter endpiece" /> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Chapter_VII" id="Chapter_VII"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter VII.</span></h2> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Correspondence.</span></h3> + + +<p>One day, when Mr. George and Rollo were at the town of Leyden, it began +to rain while they were eating their breakfast.</p> + +<p>"Never mind," said Rollo. "We can walk about the town if it does rain."</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mr. George, "we can; but we shall get tired of walking about +much sooner if it rains, than if it were pleasant weather. However, I am +not very sorry, for I should like to write some letters."</p> + +<p>"I've a great mind to write a letter, too," said Rollo. "I'll write to +my mother. Don't you think that would be a good plan?"</p> + +<p>"Why,—I don't know,"—said Mr. George, speaking in rather a doubtful +tone. "It seems to me that it would be hardly worth while."</p> + +<p>"Why not?" asked Rollo.</p> + +<p>"Why, the postage is considerable," said Mr. George, "and I don't +believe the letter would be worth what your father would have to pay for +it;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> that is, if it is such a letter as I suppose you would write."</p> + +<p>"Why, what sort of a letter do you suppose I should write?" asked Rollo.</p> + +<p>"O, you would do as boys generally do in such cases," replied his uncle. +"In the first place you would want to take the biggest sheet that you +could find to write the letter upon. Then you would take up as much of +the space as possible writing the date, and <i>My dear mother</i>. Then you +would go on for a few lines, saying things of no interest to any body, +such as telling what day you came to this place, and what day to that. +Perhaps you'd say that to-day is a rainy day, and that yesterday was +pleasant—just as if your mother, when she gets your letter, would care +any thing about knowing what particular days were rainy and what +pleasant, in Holland, a week back. Then, after you had got about two +thirds down the page, you would stop because you could not think of any +thing more to say, and subscribe your name with ever so many scrawl +flourishes, and as many affectionate and dutiful phrases as you could +get to fill up the space.</p> + +<p>"And that would be a letter that your father, like as not, would have to +pay one and sixpence or two shillings sterling for, to the London +postman."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span></p> + +<p>Rollo laughed at this description of the probable result of his proposed +attempt to write a letter; but he laughed rather faintly, for he well +recollected how many times he had written letters in just such a way. He +secretly resolved, however, that when they came in from their walk, and +Mr. George sat down to his writing, he would write too, and would see +whether he could not, for once, produce a letter that should be at least +worth the postage.</p> + +<p>After they came in from their walk, they asked the landlady to have a +fire made in their room; but she said they could not have any fire, for +the stoves were not put up. She said it was the custom in Holland not to +put the stoves up until October; and so nobody could have a fire in any +thing but foot stoves until that time. The foot stoves, she said, would +make it very comfortable for them.</p> + +<p>So she brought in two foot stoves. They consisted of small, square +boxes, with holes bored in the top, and a little fire of peat in an +earthen vessel within. Rollo asked Mr. George to give him two sheets of +thin note paper, and he established himself at a window that looked out +upon a canal. He intended to amuse himself in the intervals of his +writing in watching the boats that were passing along the canal.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span></p> + +<p>He took two sheets of note paper instead of one sheet of letter paper, +in order that, if he should get tired after filling one of them, he +could stop, and so send what he had written, without causing his father +to pay postage on any useless paper.</p> + +<p>"Then," thought he, "if I do <i>not</i> get tired, I will go on and fill the +second sheet, and my mother will have a double small letter. A double +small letter will be just as good as a single large one."</p> + +<p>This was an excellent plan.</p> + +<p>Rollo also took great pains to guard against another fault which boys +often fall into in writing their letters; that is, the fault of growing +careless about the writing as they go on with the work, by which means a +letter is produced which looks very neat and pretty at the beginning, +but becomes an ill-looking and almost illegible scrawl at the end.</p> + +<p>"I'll begin," said he, "as I think I shall be able to hold out; and I'll +hold out to the end just as I begin."</p> + +<p>Rollo remained over his letter more than three hours. He would have +become exceedingly tired with the work if he had written continuously +all this time; but he stopped to rest very often, and to amuse himself +with observing what was passing before him in the street and on the +canal.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span></p> + +<p>Mr. George was occupied all this time in writing <i>his</i> letter, and each +read what he had written to the other that same evening, after dinner. +The two letters were as follows:—</p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Mr. George's Letter</span>.</p> + +<p class="author"> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"<span class="smcap">Leyden, Holland</span>, September 27.</span><br /> +</p> +<p><span style="margin-left: 2em;">"<span class="smcap">My Dear Edward</span>:<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a></span><br /> +</p> + +<p>"We have been travelling now for several days in Holland, and it is one +of the most curious and amusing countries to travel in that I have ever +seen.</p> + +<p>"We all know from the books of geography which we study at school, that +Holland is a very low country—lower in many places than the ocean; and +that the water of the ocean is kept from overflowing it by dikes, which +the people built ages ago, along the shores. I always used to suppose +that it was only from the sea that people had any danger to fear of +inundations; but I find now that it is not so.</p> + +<p>"The people have to defend themselves from inundations, not only on the +side towards the sea, but also quite as much, if not more, on the side +towards the land, from the waters of the River<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span> Rhine. The River Rhine +rises in Switzerland, and flows through various countries of Europe +until it comes to the borders of Holland, and there it spreads out into +innumerable branches, and runs every where, all over the country. It +would often overflow the country entirely, were it not that the banks +are guarded by dikes, like the dikes of the sea. The various branches of +the rivers are connected together by canals, which are also higher than +the land on each side of them. Thus the whole country is covered with a +great network of canals, rivers, and inlets from the sea, with water in +them higher than the land. When the tide is low in the sea, the surplus +water from these rivers and canals flows off through immense sluices at +the mouth of them. When the tide comes up, it is kept from flowing in by +immense gates, with which the sluices are closed. They call the tracts +of land that lie lower than the channels of water around them, +<i>polders</i>. That is rather a queer name. I suppose it is a Dutch name.</p> + +<p>"The polders all have drains and canals cut in them. As we ride along in +the railway carriages we overlook these polders. They look like immense +green fields, extending as far as you can see, with straight canals +running through them in every direction, and crossing each other at +right angles. These canals, in the bottom of the pol<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span>ders, are about six +feet wide. They are wide enough to prevent the cattle from jumping +across them, and so they serve for fences to divide the fields from each +other. They also serve for roads, for the Dutchmen use boats on their +farms to get in their hay and produce, instead of carts.</p> + +<p>"The water that collects in these low canals and drains, which run +across the polders, cannot flow out into the large canals, which are +higher than they are, and so they have to pump it out. They pump it out +generally by means of wind mills. So wherever you go, throughout all +Holland, you find an immense number of wind mills. These wind mills are +very curious indeed. Some of them are immensely large. They look like +lighthouses. The large ones are generally built of brick, and some of +them are several hundred years old. The sails of the big ones are often +fifty feet long, and sometimes eighty feet. This makes a wheel one +hundred and sixty feet in diameter. When you stand under one of these +mills, and look up, and see these immense sails revolving so high in the +air that the lowest point, when the sail comes round, is higher than the +tops of the four story houses, the effect is quite sublime.</p> + +<p>"With these wind mills they pump the water up from one drain or canal to +another, till they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> get it high enough to run off into the sea. In some +places, however, it is very difficult to get the water into the sea even +in this way, even at low tides. The River Amstel, for instance, which +comes out at Amsterdam, and into which a great many canals and channels +are pumped, is so low at its mouth that the sea is never, at the lowest +tides, more than a foot and a half below it. At high tides the sea is a +great deal above it. The average is about a foot above. Of course it +requires a great deal of management to get the waters of the river out, +and avoid letting the water of the sea in. They do it by immense +sluices, which are generally kept shut, and only opened when the tide is +low.</p> + +<p>"In the mean time, if it should ever so happen that they could not +succeed in letting the water out fast enough, it would, of course, +accumulate, and rise in the rivers, and press against the dikes that run +along the banks of it, till at last it would break through in some weak +place; and then, unless the people could stop the breach, the whole +polder on that side would be gradually overflowed. The inundation would +extend until it came to some other dike to stop it. The polder that +would first be filled would become a lake. The lake would be many miles +in extent, perhaps, but the water in it would not usually be very +deep<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span>—not more than eight or ten feet, perhaps; though in some cases +the polders are so low, that an inundation from the rivers and canals +around it would make the lake twenty or thirty feet deep.</p> + +<p>"Of course, in ancient times, when a portion of the country became thus +submerged, it was for the people to consider whether they would abandon +it or try to pump all that water out again, by means of the wind mills. +They would think that if they pumped it out it would be some years +before the land would be good again; for the salt in the water would +tend to make it barren. So they would sometimes abandon it, and put all +their energy into requisition to strengthen the dikes around it, in +order to prevent the inundation from spreading any farther. For water, +in Holland, tends to spread and to destroy life and property, just as +fire does in other countries. The lakes and rivers, where they are +higher than the land, are liable to burst their barriers after heavy +rains falling in the country, or great floods coming down the rivers, or +high tides rise from the sea, and so run into each other; and the people +have continually to contend against this danger, just as in other +countries they do against spreading conflagrations.</p> + +<p>"In the case of spreading fire, water is the great friend and helper of +man; and in the case<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> of these spreading inundations of water, it is +wind that he relies upon. The only mode that the Dutch had to pump out +the water in former times was the wind mills. When the rains or the +tides inundated the land, they called upon the wind to help them lift +the water out to where it could flow away again.</p> + +<p>"There was a time, two or three hundred years ago, when all the wind +mills that the people could make, seem not to have been enough to do the +work; and there was one place, in the centre of the country, where the +water continued to spread more and more—breaking through as it spread +from one polder to another—until, at last, it swallowed up such an +extent of country as to form a lake thirty miles in circumference. This +lake at last extended very near to the gates of Haarlem, and it was +called the Holland Lake. You will find it laid down on all the maps of +Holland, except those which have been printed within a few years. The +reason why it is not laid down now is, because a few years ago, finding +that the wind mills were not strong enough to pump it out, the +government concluded to try what virtue there might be in steam. So they +first repaired and strengthened the range of dikes that extended round +the lake. In fact, they made them double all around, leaving a space +between for a canal.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span> They made both the inner and outer of these dikes +water-tight; so that the water should neither soak back into the lake +again, after it was pumped out, nor ooze out into the polders beyond. +The way they made them water-tight was by lining them on both sides with +a good thick coating of clay.</p> + +<p>"When the dikes enclosing the lake were completed, the engineers set up +three very powerful steam engines, and gave to each one ten or twelve +enormous pumps to work. These pumping engines were made on such a grand +scale that they lifted over sixty tuns of water at every stroke. But yet +so large was the lake, and so vast the quantity of water to be drained, +that though there were three of the engines working at this rate, and +though they were kept at work night and day, it took them a year and a +half to lay the ground dry. The work was, however, at last accomplished, +and now, what was the bottom of the lake is all converted into pastures +and green fields. But they still have to keep the pumps going all the +time to lift out the surplus water that falls over the whole space in +rain. You may judge that the amount is very large that falls on a +district thirty miles round. They calculate that the quantity which they +have to pump up now, every year, in order to keep the land from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span> being +overflowed again, is over fifty millions of tuns. And that is a quantity +larger than you can ever conceive of.</p> + +<p>"And yet the piece of ground is so large, that the cost of this pumping +makes only about fifty cents for each acre of land, which is very +little.</p> + +<p>"Besides these great spreading inundations, which Holland has always +been subject to from the lakes and rivers in the middle of the country, +there has always been a greater danger still to be feared from the ice +freshets of the Rhine, and other great rivers coming from the interior +of the country. The Rhine, you know, flows from south to north, and +often the ice, in the spring, breaks up in the middle of the course of +the river, before it gets thawed in Holland. The broken ice, in coming +down the stream towards the north, is kept within the banks of the +stream where the banks are high; but when it reaches Holland it is not +only no longer so confined, but it finds its flow obstructed by the ice +which there still remains solid, and so it gets jammed and forms dams, +and that makes the water rise very fast. At one time when such a dam was +formed, the water rose seven feet in an hour. At such times the pressure +becomes so prodigious that the dikes along the bank of the river are +burst, and water, sand, gravel, and ice, all pour over together upon<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> +the surrounding country, and overwhelm and destroy every thing that +comes in its way.</p> + +<p>"Some of the inundations caused in Holland by these floods and freshets +have been terrible. In ancient times they were worse than they are now; +because now the dikes are stronger, and are better guarded. At one +inundation that occurred about sixty years ago, eighty thousand persons +were drowned. At another, three hundred years earlier, one hundred +thousand perished. Think what awful floods there must have been.</p> + +<p>"But I cannot write any more in this letter. I have taken up so much +space and time in telling you about the inundations and freshets, that I +have not time to describe a great many other things which I have seen, +that are quite as curious and remarkable as they. But when I get home I +can tell you all about them, in the winter evenings, and read to you +about them from my journal.</p> + +<p class="center"> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Your affectionate brother,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 10em;">"<span class="smcap">George</span>."</span><br /><br /> +</p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Rollo's Letter</span>.</p> + +<p class="author"> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"<span class="smcap">Leyden</span>, Tuesday, September 27.</span> +</p> +<p><span style="margin-left: 2em;">"<span class="smcap">My Dear Mother</span>:</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>"Uncle George and I are having a very fine time indeed in travelling +about Holland; it is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span> such a funny country, on account of there being so +many canals. The water is all smooth and still in all the canals, +(except when the wind blows,) and so there must be excellent skating +every where in the winter.</p> + +<p>"I wish it was winter here now, for one day, so that uncle George and I +could have some Dutch skating.</p> + +<p>"There must be good skating every where here in the winter, for there is +water every where, and it is all good water for skating. In the fields, +instead of brooks running in crooked ways and tumbling over rocks, there +are only long and narrow channels of smooth water, just about wide +enough to skate upon, and reaching as far as you can see.</p> + +<p>"The people here speak Dutch, and they cannot understand me, and I +cannot understand them. And that is not the worst of it; they can't +understand that <i>I can't understand</i> them. Sometimes the woman that +comes to make my bed tells me something in Dutch, and I tell her that I +can't understand. I know the Dutch for 'I can't understand.' Then she +says, 'O!' and goes on to tell me over again, only now she tries to +speak plainer—as if it could make any difference to me whether she +speaks plain or not. I shake my head, and tell her I can't understand +any thing. I tell her<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> in French, and in English, and in Dutch. But it +does not do any good, for she immediately begins again, and tells me the +whole story all over again, trying to speak plainer than ever. I suppose +she thinks that any body can understand Dutch, if she only speaks it +plain enough to them.</p> + +<p>"When I want any thing of them, I always tell them by signs. The other +evening, uncle George and I wanted some candles. So I rang the bell, and +a woman came. I went to the door of the room, and made believe that I +had two candlesticks in my hand, and that I was bringing them in. I +made believe put them on the table, and then sat down and opened a book, +and pretended that I was reading by the light of them. She understood me +immediately. She laughed, and said, 'Ya, ya!' and went off out of the +room to get the candles.</p> + +<p>"Ya, ya, means yes, yes.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Another time we wanted a fire. So when the woman came in, I shivered, +and made believe that I was very cold, and then I went to the fireplace, +and made believe warm myself. Then I pointed to the fireplace, and made +a sign for her to go away and bring the fire to put there. But instead +of going, she told me something in Dutch, and shook her head; and when I +said I could not understand it, she told me over again; and finally she +went away, and sent the landlady. The landlady could<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span> speak a little +English. So she told me that we could not have any fire except in foot +stoves, for the fireplace stoves were not put up.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i52.jpg" width="600" height="357" alt="" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE BOAT FAMILY.</span> +</div> + +<p>"It is very curious to walk about the streets, and see the boats on the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span> +canals, and what the people are carrying back and forth in them. I watch +them sometimes from the windows of the hotel, especially when it rains, +and we cannot go out. They have every thing in these boats. They use +some of them instead of houses; and the man who owns them lives in them +with his wife and children, and sometimes with his ducks and chickens.</p> + +<p>"I often see the little children playing on the decks of the boat. Once +I saw one that had a dog, and he was trying to teach him to cipher on a +slate. His mother and the other children were on the boat too.</p> + +<p>"The people use their dogs here to draw carts. They have three or four +sometimes harnessed in together. The dogs look pretty poor and lean, but +they draw like good fellows. You would be surprised to see what great +loads they draw. They draw loads of vegetables to market, and then, when +the vegetables are sold, they draw the market women home in the empty +carts.</p> + +<p>"Only they don't mind very well, when they are told which way to go. I +saw a boy yesterday<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> riding along in a cart, with a good big dog to draw +him, and when he came to a street where he wanted him to turn down, the +dog would not turn. The boy hallooed out to him in Dutch a good many +times, and finally the boy had to jump down out of the cart, and run and +seize him by the collar, and <i>pull</i> him round.</p> + +<p>"It is not a great deal that they use dog carts to bring things to +market, for generally they bring them in boats. They take almost every +thing to and fro along the canals in boats; and it is very curious to +stand on a bridge and look down on the boats that pass under, and see +how many different kinds of boats there are, and how many different +kinds of things they have in them. This morning, I saw one that had the +bottom of it divided into three pens for animals. In the first pen were +two great cows, lying down on the straw; in the second pen were several +sheep; and in the third there were as many as a dozen small pigs, just +big enough to be roasted. I suppose it was a farmer bringing in his +stock to market.</p> + +<p>"Sometimes they row the boats along the canal, and sometimes they push +them with setting poles. They have the longest setting poles in some of +the boats that I ever saw. There is an iron pike at one end of the pole, +and a wooden knob at the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span> other. When they are pushing the boat by means +of one of these poles, they run the ironed end of it down to the bottom, +and then the man puts his shoulder to the little knob at the other end +and pushes. As the boat goes on, he walks along the boat from the bow to +the stern, pushing all the way as hard as he can push.</p> + +<p>"When they are out of town the men pull the boats along the canals by +means of a long cord, which is fastened to a strap over their shoulders. +With this strap they walk along on the tow-path of the canal, pulling in +this way—so that if the cord should break, I should think they would +fall headlong on the ground.</p> + +<p>"I saw a man and a woman the other day pulling a double boat, loaded +with hay, along a canal. The hay was loaded across from one boat to the +other. It made as much as five or six of the largest cart loads of hay +that I ever saw. I was surprised to see that a man and a woman could +draw so much. They drew it by long lines, and by straps over their +shoulders. The woman's line was fastened to one of the boats, and the +man's to the other.</p> + +<p>"The people travel a great deal in boats in these parts of the country, +where there are no railroads. Uncle George and I took a little journey +in one, the other day. I wanted to go very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span> much, but uncle George was +afraid, he said, that they might take us somewhere where there would be +nobody that could talk English, and so we might get into some serious +difficulty. But he said that he would go with me a few miles, if I could +find a canal boat going to some place that we knew. So I found one going +to a town called Delft. We knew that place, because we had come through +it, or close by it, by the railway.</p> + +<p>"Uncle George said that it was an excellent plan to go there, for then, +if we got tired of the canal boat in going, we could come home by a +railroad train.</p> + +<p>"So we went; and we had a very pleasant time, indeed. I found the canal +boat by going to the place where the boats all were, and saying, <i>Delft, +Delft</i>, to the people; and then they pointed me to the right boat. So we +got in. When the captain came for the fare, I took out a handful of +money, and said <i>Delft</i>, and also pointed to uncle George. So he took +out enough to pay for uncle George and me to go to Delft. At least I +suppose he thought it was enough, though I thought it was very little.</p> + +<p>"We had a very pleasant sail to Delft. The banks of the canal are +beautiful. They are green and pretty every where, and in some places +there were beautiful gardens, and summer houses, and pavilions close +upon the shore.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span></p> + +<p>"But now I begin to be tired of writing. I should have been tired a +great while ago, only I have stopped to rest pretty often, and to look +out the window, and see what is going by on the canal.</p> + +<p>"There is a boat coming now with a mast, and I don't see what they are +going to do, for there is a bridge here, and it is not a draw bridge. +Almost all the bridges are draw bridges, but this one is not. So I don't +see how he is going to get by.</p> + +<p>"Ah, I see how it is! The mast is on a hinge, so that it can turn down +backward, and lie along flat on the deck of the boat. It is going down +now.</p> + +<p>"Now it is down, and the boat is going under the bridge.</p> + +<p>"But good by, mother, for it is time for me to stop.</p> + +<p class="center"> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Your affectionate and dutiful son,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 12em;">"<span class="smcap">Rollo</span>.</span> +</p> + +<p>"P. S. This is the longest letter that I ever wrote."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Chapter_VIII" id="Chapter_VIII"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter VIII.</span></h2> + +<h3><span class="smcap">The Commissioner</span>.</h3> + + +<p><span class="smcap">As</span> may well be imagined, the best use to which the green fields of +Holland can be put, is the raising of grass to feed cattle; for the +wetness of the land, which makes it somewhat unsuitable to be ploughed, +causes grass to grow upon it very luxuriantly. Accordingly, as you ride +through the country along the great railway lines, you see, every where, +herds of cattle and flocks of sheep feeding in the meadows that extend +far and wide in every direction.</p> + +<p>The cattle are kept partly for the purpose of being fatted and sent to +market for beef, and partly for their milk, which the Dutch farmers make +cheese of. Dutch cheeses are celebrated in every part of the world.</p> + +<p>In the neighborhood of Amsterdam there are a number of dairy villages +where cheeses are made, and some of them are almost always visited by +travellers. They are great curiosities, in fact, on account of their +singular and most extraor<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span>dinary neatness. Cleanliness is, in all parts +of the world, deemed a very essential requisite of a dairy, and the +Dutch housewives in the dairy villages of Holland have carried the idea +to the extreme. The village which is most commonly visited by strangers +who go to Amsterdam, is one called Broek. It lies to the north of +Amsterdam, and at a distance of about five or six miles from it.</p> + +<p>One day when Mr. George and Rollo arrived in Amsterdam, Mr. George, just +at sundown, looked out at the window of the hotel, and said,—</p> + +<p>"Rollo, I think it is going to be a superb day to-morrow."</p> + +<p>"So do I," said Rollo.</p> + +<p>"At least," said Mr. George, "I should think so if I were in America. +The wind has all gone down, and the western sky is full of golden clouds +shining in roseate splendor."</p> + +<p>Mr. George enunciated these high-sounding words in a pompous and +theatrical manner, which made Rollo laugh very heartily.</p> + +<p>"And, to descend from poetry to plain prose," said Mr. George, "I think +we had better take advantage of the fine weather to go to Broek +to-morrow."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Very well," said Rollo, "that plan suits me exactly."</p> + +<p>Rollo was always ready for any plan which involved the going away from +the place where he was, to some new place which he had not seen before.</p> + +<p>"But how are we going to find the way there?" said Rollo.</p> + +<p>"I shall take a commissioner," said Mr. George. "I am going to Saandam, +too, where Peter the Great learned ship carpentry."</p> + +<p>"I have heard something about that," said Rollo, "but I don't know much +about it."</p> + +<p>"Why, Peter the Great was emperor of Russia," said Mr. George, "and he +wished to introduce ship building into his dominions. So he came to +Holland to learn about the construction of ships, in order that he might +be better qualified to take the direction of the building of a fleet in +Russia. Saandam was the place that he came to. While he was there he +lived in a small, wooden house, near the place where the ship building +was going on. That house is there now, and almost every body that comes +to this part of the country goes to see it."</p> + +<p>"How long ago was it that he was there?" asked Rollo.</p> + +<p>"It was more than one hundred and fifty years ago," said Mr. George.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span></p> + +<p>"I should not think a wooden house would have lasted so long," said +Rollo.</p> + +<p>"It would not have lasted so long," replied Mr. George, "if they had not +taken special pains to preserve it. They have built a brick house around +it and over it, to protect it from the weather, and so it has been +preserved. Now I think we had better go to-morrow and see Broek, and +also Saandam, and I am going to take a commissioner."</p> + +<p>Mr. George had employed a commissioner once before, as the reader will +perhaps recollect, namely, at the Hague; and perhaps I ought to stop +here a moment to explain more fully what a commissioner is. He is a +servant hired by the day to conduct strangers about the town where they +reside, and about the environs, if necessary, to show them what there is +that is curious and wonderful there. These men are called, sometimes +commissioners and sometimes <i>valets de place</i>, and in their way they are +very useful.</p> + +<p>If a traveller arrives at a hotel in the morning, at any important town +in Europe, before he has been in his room fifteen minutes he generally +hears a knock at his door, and on bidding the person come in, a +well-dressed looking servant man appears and asks,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span>—</p> + +<p>"Shall you wish for a commissioner, sir, to-day?"</p> + +<p>Or if the gentleman, after remaining in his room a few minutes, takes +his wife or his daughter, or whomever he may have travelling with him, +and goes out from the door of the hotel, he is pretty sure to be met +near the door by one or more of these men, who accost him earnestly, +saying,—</p> + +<p>"Do you want a commissioner, sir?" Or, "Shall I show you the way, sir?" +Or, "Would you like to see the museum, sir?"</p> + +<p>When a traveller intends to remain some days in a place, he has +generally no occasion for a commissioner; since, in his rambles about +the town, he usually finds all the places of interest himself, and in +such a case the importunities of the commissioners seeking employment +are sometimes annoying to him. But if his time is very short, or if he +wishes to make excursions into the neighborhood of a town where he does +not understand the language of the people, then such a servant is of +very great advantage.</p> + +<p>Mr. George thought that his proposed excursion to Broek and Saandam was +an occasion on which a commissioner could be very advantageously +employed. Accordingly, after he and Rollo had finished their dinner, +which they took<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span> at a round table near a window in the coffee room, he +asked Rollo to ring the bell.</p> + +<p>Rollo did so, and a waiter came in.</p> + +<p>"Send me in a commissioner, if you please," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Very well, sir," said the waiter, with a bow.</p> + +<p>The waiter went out, and in a few minutes a well-dressed and very +respectable looking young man came in, and advancing towards Mr. George, +said,—</p> + +<p>"Did you wish to see a commissioner, sir?"</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mr. George. "I want to make some inquiries about going to +Broek and to Saandam, to-morrow. I want to know what the best way is to +go, and what the expenses will be."</p> + +<p>So saying, Mr. George took out a pencil and a piece of paper from his +pocket, in order to make a memorandum of what the commissioner should +say.</p> + +<p>"In the first place," asked Mr. George, "what is your name? I shall want +to know what to call you."</p> + +<p>"My name is James," said the commissioner.</p> + +<p>"Well, now, James," said Mr. George, "I want you to tell me what the +best way is to go, and what all the expenses will be. I want to know +every thing beforehand."</p> + +<p>"Well, sir," said James, "we shall go first<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span> by the ferry boat across to +the Y,<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> and there we shall take the <i>trekschuyt</i> for a short distance +on the canal."</p> + + +<p>"And how much will that cost?" asked Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"For the three, forty-five cents," said James.</p> + +<p>He meant, of course, Dutch cents. It takes two and a half Dutch cents to +make one American cent.</p> + +<p>"There," continued James, "we take a carriage."</p> + +<p>"And how much will the carriage be?" asked Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"To go to Broek and back, and then to Saandam, will be ten guilders."</p> + +<p>Mr. George made memoranda of these sums on his paper, as James named +them.</p> + +<p>"And the tolls," continued James, "will be one guilder and twenty-five +cents more."</p> + +<p>"And the driver?" asked Mr. George.</p> + +<p>In most of the countries of Europe, when you make a bargain for the +carriage, the driver's services are not included in it. He expects a fee +besides.</p> + +<p>"The driver, fifty cents. Half a guilder," said James.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Is that enough for him?" asked Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Yes, sir," said James, "that's enough."</p> + +<p>"We will call it seventy-five cents," said Mr. George. So saying, he +wrote seventy-five.</p> + +<p>"Then there will be some fees to pay, I suppose," said Mr. George, "both +at Broek and at Saandam."</p> + +<p>"Yes, sir," said James. "We pay twenty-five cents at the dairy, +twenty-five cents at the garden, and twenty-five to the hostler. That +makes seventy-five. And the same at Saandam, to see the hut of Peter the +Great, and the house. That makes one guilder fifty centimes."</p> + +<p>"Is that all?" asked Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"There will be forty-five cents for the ferry, coming back," said James.</p> + +<p>Mr. George added this sum to the column, and then footed it up. The +amount was nearly fifteen guilders.</p> + +<p>"We will call it fifteen guilders," said he. "To-morrow I will give you +fifteen guilders, and you will pay all expenses. And then what shall I +have to pay you for your services?"</p> + +<p>"My charge is four guilders for the day," said James.</p> + +<p>"Very well," said Mr. George. "And at what time in the morning will it +be best to set out?"</p> + +<p>"There is a boat at nine o'clock," said James.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Then we will leave here at half past eight. We will have breakfast, +Rollo, at eight. Or perhaps we can have breakfast at Broek. Is there a +hotel there, James?"</p> + +<p>"Yes, sir," said James. "There is a hotel there."</p> + +<p>"Very well. Then we will wait till we get there before we take +breakfast, and we will expect you at half past eight. Our room is number +eleven."</p> + +<p>The arrangement being thus fully made, the commissioner, promising to be +punctual, bowed and retired.</p> + +<p>"Now, Rollo," said Mr. George, "to-morrow we will have a good time. +After I give the commissioner the fifteen guilders, I shall have no +further care or responsibility, but shall be taken along over the whole +ground as if I were a child under the care of his father."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i166.jpg" width="600" height="351" alt="" title="chapter endpiece" /> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Chapter_IX" id="Chapter_IX"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter IX.</span></h2> + +<h3><span class="smcap">The Great Canal</span>.</h3> + +<p>The commissioner knocked at Mr. George's door at the time appointed. Mr. +George and Rollo were both ready. Mr. George counted out the fifteen +guilders on the table, and James put them in his pocket. The party then +set out.</p> + +<p>Mr. George wished to stop by the way to put a letter in the post office, +and to pay the postage of it. He desired to do this personally, for he +wished to inquire whether the letter would go direct. So James led them +by the way of the post office, and conducted Mr. George into the office +where foreign letters were received, and the payment of postage taken +for them. Here James served as interpreter. Indeed, it is one of the +most important duties of a commissioner to serve as an interpreter to +his employer, whenever his services are required in this capacity.</p> + +<p>When the letter was put in, the party resumed their walk. The +commissioner went on before, carrying Mr. George's travelling shawl and +the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span> umbrella, and Mr. George and Rollo followed. The way lay along a +narrow street, by the side of a canal. There were a thousand curious +sights to be seen, both among the boats on the canal and along the road; +but Rollo could not stop to examine them, for the commissioner walked +pretty fast.</p> + +<p>"I wish he would not walk so fast," said Rollo.</p> + +<p>"Ah, yes," said Mr. George, "he is right this morning, for we want to +get to the pier in time for the boat. But in walking about the town to +see it, it would be a great trouble to us."</p> + +<p>"To-morrow we will go about by ourselves," said Rollo, "and stop when +and where we please."</p> + +<p>"We will," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>At last the party came out to what may be called the front of the city, +where they could look off upon the harbor. This harbor is a sheet of +water called the Y, which has been before referred to. The morning was +bright and beautiful, and the water was covered with ships, steamers, +barges, boats, and vessels of every form and size, going to and fro. The +steamers passed swiftly, but the sailing vessels scarcely moved, so calm +and still was the morning air. The sun was shining, and the whole scene +presented to Mr. George's and Rollo's view, as they looked out over the +water, was extremely brilliant and beautiful.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span></p> + +<p>The commissioner led the way out over a long pier supported by piles, to +a sort of landing platform at a distance from the shore. This place was +quite large. It had a tavern upon it, and a great many different offices +belonging to the different lines of steamers, and piers projecting in +different directions for the different boats and steamers to land at. It +stood at some distance from the shore, and the whole had the appearance +of a little village on an island. It would have been an island indeed, +if there had been any land about it; but there was not. It was built +wholly on piles.</p> + +<p>Here were crowds of people going and coming on this stage, some having +just landed from the different steamers that had just arrived, and some +about to embark in others that were going away. Small boats were coming, +too, over the water, with passengers in them, among whom were many +peasant girls, whose foreheads and temples were adorned with a profusion +of golden ornaments, such as are worn by the ladies of North Holland. +Rollo looked this way and that as he passed along the stage, and he +wished for time to stop and examine what he saw; but the commissioner +walked rapidly on, and led the way to the ferry boat.</p> + +<p>"You will walk on board," said James, "while I get the tickets."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span></p> + +<p>So Mr. George and Rollo went over the plank on board the boat, while +James turned to a little office that stood near to get the tickets.</p> + +<p>There was a man standing at the end of the plank to collect the tickets +as the passengers came on board. Mr. George, as he passed, pointed back +to the office where James had gone. The man bowed, and he and Rollo +passed on.</p> + +<p>"How independent we are!" said Mr. George. "I shall have nothing to do +with making any payments all day to-day, and it will seem as if we were +travelling free."</p> + +<p>The ferry boat was of a very singular construction, and most singular +looking people they were who were on board of it. It had a great flat +deck, which was of an oval form, and was spreading out very wide at the +sides. There were seats here and there in different places, but no +awning or shelter of any kind overhead. Rollo was glad of this, for the +morning was so fine, and the view on every side was so magnificent, that +he was very much pleased to have it so wholly unobstructed.</p> + +<p>As soon as the chimes of the city clocks began to strike for nine, the +various steamboats began to shoot out in different directions from the +piers of the landing, and soon the ferry boat began to move, too. She +moved, however, very slowly.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span></p> + +<p>"What a slow and clumsy boat!" said Rollo.</p> + +<p>"I'm glad she is slow," replied Mr. George, "for I want to look about. I +should be willing to be an hour in going across this ferry."</p> + +<p>The prospect on every side was, indeed, very fine. On looking back they +could see the buildings of the town extending far and wide for miles, +with domes, and towers, and spires, and tops of trees, and masts of +ships rising together every where above the tops of the houses. The +water of the harbor was covered with ships and steamers passing to and +fro—those near glittering in the sun, while the distant ones were half +lost in a smoky haze that every where softened and concealed the +horizon. Mr. George and Rollo gazed earnestly on this scene, looking now +in this direction, and now in that, but not speaking a word.</p> + +<p>When they were about half across the Y, James came to Mr. George, and +said,—</p> + +<p>"This ferry boat connects with a steamer on the canal, which goes to the +Helder, and also with various trekschuyts. We shall take a trekschuyt to +go for a short distance?—as far as to the place where we shall get a +carriage."</p> + +<p>"Very well," said Mr. George. "Arrange it as you think best. Then we +shall go a short distance on the great canal."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Yes, sir," said James. "You will like to see a little of the canal."</p> + +<p>"I shall, indeed," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>The great canal of which James here spoke is the grandest work of the +kind in Holland, and perhaps in the world. If you look at the map you +will see that Amsterdam stands somewhat in the interior of the country, +and that the only approach to it, by sea, is through a great gulf called +the Zuyder Zee. Now, the water in the Zuyder Zee is shallow. There are +channels, it is true, that are tolerably deep; but they are very winding +and intricate, and they are so surrounded with shoals and sand banks as +to make the navigation very difficult, especially for ships of large +size.</p> + +<p>The people, accordingly, conceived the plan of digging a canal across +the country; from Amsterdam to the nearest place where there was deep +water on the sea. This was at a point of land called the Helder.</p> + +<p>The reason why there was deep water there, was, that that was the outlet +for the Zuyder Zee, and the water rushing in there when the tide is +rising, and out again when it goes down, keeps the channel deep and +clear.</p> + +<p>So it was determined to make a canal from the Helder to Amsterdam. But +the land was lower,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> almost all the way, than the sea. This rendered it +impossible to construct the canal so as to make it of the same level +with the sea, without building up the banks of it to an inconvenient +height. Besides, it was just as well to make the canal lower than the +sea, and then to build gates at each end of it, to prevent the sea water +from coming in.</p> + +<p>"Then how were the ships to get in?" asked Rollo, when Mr. George +explained this to him.</p> + +<p>"Why, there were two ways," replied Mr. George, "by which ships might +get in. You see, although the canal is lower than the sea is generally, +there is an hour or two every day when the tide goes down, in which the +two are about on a level. Accordingly, by opening the gates when the +tide is low, a communication would be made by which the vessels could +sail in and out."</p> + +<p>"But that would be inconvenient, I should think," said Rollo, "not to +have the gates open but twice a day."</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mr. George; "and so, to enable them to admit ships at any +time, they have built <i>locks</i> at each end."</p> + +<p>"Like the locks in a common canal in America?" said Rollo.</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mr. George; "and by means of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span> these locks, ships can be +taken in and out at any time."</p> + +<p>"I don't exactly understand how they do it," said Rollo.</p> + +<p>"Let me explain it to you, then," replied Mr. George. "Listen +attentively, and picture to your mind precisely what I describe, and see +if you understand.</p> + +<p>"First," continued Mr. George, "imagine that you are down by the sea +shore, where the canal ends. The water in the sea is higher than it is +in the canal, and there are two sets of gates, at a little distance from +each other, near the mouth of the canal, which keep the water of the sea +from flowing in."</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Rollo, "I can picture that to my mind. But how far apart are +the two sets of gates?"</p> + +<p>"A little farther apart," said Mr. George, "than the length of the +longest ship. Of course one pair of these locks is towards the sea, and +the other towards the canal. I will call the first the sea gates, and +the other the canal gates. The space between the two gates is called the +lock."</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Rollo, "I understand all that."</p> + +<p>"Now," continued Mr. George, "a ship comes in, we will suppose, and is +to be taken into the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span> canal. First, the men open the sea gates. The sea +can now flow into the lock, but it cannot get into the canal, because +the canal gates are still shut."</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Rollo.</p> + +<p>"And, now you see," continued Mr. George, "that as the water in the lock +is high, and on a level with the sea, the ship can sail into the lock."</p> + +<p>"But it can't get down into the canal," said Rollo.</p> + +<p>"No," replied Mr. George, "not yet. But now the men shut the sea gates, +and thus shut the ship in. They then open the passages through the canal +gates, and this lets the water out of the lock until it subsides to the +level of that in the canal, and the ship settles down with it. But the +sea cannot come in, for the sea gates, that are now behind the ship, are +shut. When the water in the lock has gone down to the canal level, then +they can open the gates, and the ship can sail along out of the lock +into the canal.</p> + +<p>"Thus they lock the ship down into the canal at one end, and when she +has passed through the canal, they lock her up into the Y again at the +other."</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Rollo. "I understand it now.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span> And shall we go into the canal +through the locks in this way?"</p> + +<p>"I don't know," said Mr. George. "I'll ask James."</p> + +<p>So Mr. George beckoned to James to come to him, and asked him whether +they should enter the canal through the lock.</p> + +<p>"No," said James. "The ferry boat does not go into the canal at all. We +go into a little dock or harbor by the side of it, and the passengers +walk over the dike, and down to the canal, where they find the boats +ready for them that they are to take."</p> + +<p>"Why don't they pass from those boats through the locks, and let them +come across to Amsterdam?" asked Rollo, "and then we might get on board +them there, and so not have to change from one boat to the other."</p> + +<p>"Because it takes some time, and some trouble," said James, "to pass any +thing through the locks, and it is not worth while to do it, except in +case of large and valuable ships. So the boats and steamers that ply +along the canal are left inside the lock, and the passengers are taken +to and from them by the ferry boat."</p> + +<p>The ferry boat, by this time, began to approach the shore. It entered +into a little opening in the land, which formed a sort of harbor. Here +the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span> passengers were landed at a wharf, which was surrounded by small +buildings. Thence they ascended what was evidently a large dike. When +they reached the top of the dike they saw below them, on the other side +of it, the beginning of the canal. It lay several feet lower than the +water of the harbor in which they had left the ferry boat; but it was +quite wide, and it was bordered by broad dikes with avenues of trees +upon them, on either side. On one side, under the trees, was a tow path, +and on the other a broad and smoothly gravelled road.</p> + +<p>Two boats were lying moored to the wharves at the side of the canal. One +was a long, sharp, and narrow steamer, which was going through the whole +length of the canal to the Helder. The other was a trekschuyt, or canal +boat, which was going only a short way, to the nearest village.</p> + +<p>The passengers that came in the ferry boat divided into two parties, as +they came down the dike. One party went to the steamer, the other to the +trekschuyt. Mr. George and Rollo, of course, went with the last.</p> + +<p>The trekschuyt was a curious sort of boat. It was built like the Noah's +ark made for children to play with; that is, it was a broad boat, with a +house in it. The roof of the house, which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span> formed the deck of the boat, +was flat, and there were seats along the sides of it, and a railing +behind them on the margin, to keep people from falling off. At each end +of the house were two flights of steps, leading up to the roof or deck, +and below them another flight, which led down to the little cabins +below.</p> + +<p>As soon as Rollo got on board, he first ran up on the deck. He sat down +on the seat upon one side, and then, after looking about a moment, he +ran over to the other side, and sat down there. Then he got up, and said +that he was going below to look at the cabins.</p> + +<p>Mr. George, all the time, stood quietly on the deck, looking at the +canal, and at the country around. He could see the canal extending, in a +winding direction, across the country; but the view of it was soon lost, +as the winding of its course brought the dikes on the sides of it in the +way so that they concealed the water. He could, however, trace its +course for some distance, by the masts and sails of vessels which he saw +at different distances rising among the green trees. Along the dike, on +one side, was a high road, and on the other, a tow path. Different boats +were coming and going in the part of the canal that was near. They were +drawn by long and slender lines, that were fastened to a tall mast set +up<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span> near the bows of the boat. Some were drawn by men, and some by +horses.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i179.jpg" width="600" height="343" alt="" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE TREKSCHUYT.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span><br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span></p> + +<p>Before the trekschuyt had gone far, after it commenced its voyage, a +great ship was seen coming on the canal. She was coming from the Helder. +It was a ship that had come from the West Indies, and was going to +Amsterdam. The wind was contrary for her, and they could not use their +sails, and so they were drawing her along by horses. There were two +teams of horses, eight in each team. The view of these teams, walking +along the tow path, with the immense ship following them in the canal, +presented a very imposing spectacle.</p> + +<p>The trekschuyt started before the Helder steamer; but it had not gone +far before Rollo, who had now ascended to the deck again, saw her coming +up behind very rapidly.</p> + +<p>"I tell you what it is, uncle George," said he, "I wish you and I were +on board that steamer, and were going along the whole length of the +canal."</p> + +<p>"So do I," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Could not we get on board?" asked Rollo.</p> + +<p>"No," said Mr. George. "We cannot change our plan to-day very well. But +now that we have found the way, we can come over here any morning we +please, and take the Helder steamer."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Let's come," said Rollo, eagerly. "Let's come to-morrow."</p> + +<p>"We'll see about that," said Mr. George. "See, here comes a market +boat."</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Rollo. "The man is towing it, and his wife is steering."</p> + +<p>"Now we will see how they pass," said Rollo.</p> + +<p>There was no difficulty about passing, for as soon as the man who was +towing the market boat found that the trekschuyt had come up to his +line, he stopped suddenly, and the advance of his boat caused his line +to drop into the water. The trekschuyt then sailed right over it. By +this simple manœuvre, boats and vessels could pass each other very +easily, and generally the manœuvre was executed in a prompt and very +skilful manner. But once, when they were passing a boat, the woman who +was steering it put the helm the wrong way, and though the captain of +the trekschuyt, and also the husband of the woman, who was on the shore, +shouted to her repeatedly in a loud and angry manner, she could not get +it right again in time to avoid a collision. The trekschuyt gave the +boat a dreadful bump as it went by. Fortunately, however, it did no +harm, except to frighten the poor woman, and break their tow line.</p> + +<p>After going on in this way for fifteen or twenty<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span> minutes along the +canal, the trekschuyt arrived at its place of destination, and Mr. +George and Rollo disembarked at a little village of very neat and pretty +houses, built along the dike on one side of the canal.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i183.jpg" width="600" height="446" alt="" title="chapter endpiece" /> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Chapter_X" id="Chapter_X"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter X.</span></h2> + +<h3><span class="smcap">The Dairy Village.</span></h3> + + +<p>Mr. George and Rollo walked ashore in a very independent manner, having +the commissioner to attend to the tickets. They went up to the top of +the dike, and waited for the commissioner to come to them.</p> + +<p>"While I am getting the carriage ready," said the commissioner, when he +came, "perhaps you will like to take a walk on the bridge, where there +is a very fine view. But first, perhaps, you will look at the carriage, +and choose the one that you will like."</p> + +<p>So saying, James led the way into a sort of stable, where there were a +great many very nice and pretty carriages, arranged very snugly +together. Mr. George was surprised to see so many. He asked James how it +happened.</p> + +<p>"O, there is a great deal of travelling on the roads about here," said +James. "The country is very rich and populous, and the people of +Amsterdam come out a great deal."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span></p> + +<p>Some of the carriages were very elegant. One of these an hostler took +out, and told Mr. George that he could have it if he chose. There was +another which was much less elegant, but it was more open.</p> + +<p>"Let us take the open one," said Rollo. "We can see so much better."</p> + +<p>So they decided upon the open one; and then, while the hostlers were +harnessing the horses, Mr. George and Rollo went forward to the bridge.</p> + +<p>The bridge led over a branch canal, which here comes into the main +canal. The road to it lay along the dike, and formed the street of a +little village. It was paved with bricks placed edgewise, and was as +neat as a parlor floor. The houses were all on one side. They were very +small; but they were so neat and pretty, and the forms of them were so +strange and queer, that they looked like play houses, or like a scene in +fairy land, rather than like the real habitations of men.</p> + +<p>There were pretty gardens by them, which extended down the slope of the +dike. The slopes of the dikes are always very gradual, and very nice +gardens can be made on them.</p> + +<p>Mr. George and Rollo stood on the bridge, and looked up and down the +canals on either side. They saw boats, with people in them, getting +ready to set out on their voyages.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span></p> + +<p>"I wonder where that canal leads to?" said Rollo.</p> + +<p>"O, it goes off into the interior of the country, some where," said Mr. +George. "The country is as full of canals as Massachusetts is of roads."</p> + +<p>"I should like, very much," said Rollo, "to get on board that boat with +that man, and go with him wherever he is going."</p> + +<p>"So should I, if I knew Dutch," said Mr. George, "so that I could talk +with him as we sailed along."</p> + +<p>"How pretty it is all about here," said Rollo. "What a queer +village,—built on a bank! And what a funny road! It looks like a play +road."</p> + +<p>The road, where it led through the village, did, indeed, present a very +singular appearance. It was very narrow indeed, being barely wide enough +for one carriage to pass, and leaving scarcely room on the side for a +child to crowd up against the house, and let it go by. On the other side +was a row of trees, with green grass beneath, covering the banks of the +canal.</p> + +<p>After Mr. George and Rollo had been standing a few minutes on the bridge +they saw that the carriage was nearly ready. So they went back to the +place and got in. The top of the carriage was turned entirely down, so +that they could see about them in every direction as they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span> rode along. +James mounted on the box outside, with the driver.</p> + +<p>"Now," said Rollo, in a tone of great satisfaction, "we will have a very +first rate ride."</p> + +<p>The carriage drove along through the little street, which has already +been described. Rollo could reach his hand out and almost touch the +houses as they rode by. There were little shops kept in some of the +houses, and the things that were for sale were put up at the windows. +They looked exactly as if children had arranged them for play.</p> + +<p>After leaving the village the road turned and followed the dike of a +branch canal. The views on every side were extremely beautiful. The +canal was carried along between its two banks, high above the rest of +the country, and here and there, at moderate distances from each other, +wind mills were to be seen busy at work pumping up water from the drains +in the fields, and pouring it into the canal. The fields were covered +with herds of cattle and flocks of sheep, and here and there were +parties of men mowing the grass or loading the new-made hay into boats, +that lay floating in the small canals which bordered the fields.</p> + +<p>In looking about over the country, there were wind mills to be seen in +all directions, their long arms slowly revolving in the air, and +interspersed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span> among them were the masts and sails of sloops and +schooners, that were sailing to and fro along the canals. As the water +of these canals was often hidden from view by the dikes which bordered +them, it seemed as if the ships and steamers were sailing on the land in +the midst of green fields and trees, and smiling villages.</p> + +<p>After going on in this way for an hour or more, the carriage approached +the village which Mr. George and Rollo were going to see. The village +lay on the borders of a canal, which was here quite broad, and as the +road approached it on the other side of the canal, it was in full view +for Mr. George and Rollo as the party approached it. The houses were +close to the margin of the water. They were very neat and pretty, and +were, most of them, painted green. Many of them had little canals by the +side of them, like lanes of water leading into the rear of the houses, +and the prettiest little porticoes, and trellises, and piazzas, and +pavilions, and summer houses were seen in every part. The road went +winding round a wide basin, and then, after crossing a bridge, the +carriage stopped at an inn.</p> + +<p>The inn was entirely outside of the village. The commissioner said that +they must walk through the village, for there was no carriage road +through it at all.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span></p> + +<p>So Mr. George and Rollo dismounted, and the hostlers came out from the +stable to unharness the horses.</p> + +<p>"Now, Rollo," said Mr. George, "we will go in and order a breakfast, and +then we will take our walk through the village while it is getting +ready."</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Rollo. "I should like some breakfast very much."</p> + +<p>"What shall we have?" asked Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"What you like," replied Rollo. "You always get good breakfasts."</p> + +<p>"Well," said Mr. George, "we will tell them the old story."</p> + +<p>Just at this moment James came up to the door of the hotel where Mr. +George and Rollo had been standing during this conversation.</p> + +<p>"You may order breakfast for us, James," said Mr. George, "and let them +have it ready for us when we get back from our walk."</p> + +<p>"Yes, sir," said James. "And what will you have?"</p> + +<p>"<i>Biftek aux pommes</i>,"<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> said Mr. George, "and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span> coffee. And let them +give us some of their best cheese."</p> + + +<p>The commissioner went in to give the order.</p> + +<p>"Uncle George," said Rollo, "I think you'll be known all through this +country as the beefsteak and fried potato man."</p> + +<p>Mr. George laughed.</p> + +<p>"Well," said he. "There could not be a more agreeable idea than that to +be associated with my memory."</p> + +<p>The truth is, that both Mr. George and Rollo liked the <i>biftek aux +pommes</i> better than almost any thing else that they could have, whether +for breakfast or dinner.</p> + +<p>After having given the order for the breakfast to a very nice and +tidy-looking Dutch girl, whose forehead and temples were adorned with a +profusion of golden ornaments, after the fashion of the young women of +North Holland, the commissioner came back, and the whole party set out +to walk through the village. There were no streets, properly so called, +but only walks, about as wide as the gravel walks of a garden, which +meandered about among the houses and yards, in a most extraordinary +manner. There were beautiful views, from time to time, presented over +the water of the canal on which the village was situated; and there were +a great number of small canals which seemed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span> to penetrate every where, +with the prettiest little bridges over them, and landing steps, and +bowers, and pavilions along the borders of them, and gayly-painted boats +fastened at kitchen doors, and a thousand other such-like objects, +characteristic of the intimate intermingling of land and water which +prevails in this extraordinary country.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i191.jpg" width="600" height="352" alt="" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE DAIRY VILLAGE.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span><br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span></p> +<p>Every thing was, however, on so small a scale, and so scrupulously neat +and pretty, that it looked more like a toy village than one built for +the every-day residence of real men.</p> + +<p>After walking on for about a quarter of a mile, the commissioner said +that he would show them the interior of one of the dairy houses, where +the cheeses were made,—for the business of this town was the making of +cheeses from the milk of the cows that feed on the green polders that +lie all around them.</p> + +<p>"The stalls for the cows," said James, "are in the same house in which +the family lives; but the cows are not kept there in summer, and so we +shall find the stalls empty."</p> + +<p>So saying, James turned aside up a little paved walk which led to the +door of a very pretty looking house. He opened the door without any +ceremony, and Mr. George and Rollo went in.</p> + +<p>The door was near one end of the house, and it opened into a passage way +which extended<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span> back through the whole depth of it. On one side was a +row of stalls, or cribs, for the cows. On the other, were doors opening +into the rooms used for the family. A very nice looking Dutch woman, who +had apparently seen the party from her window, came out through this +side door into the passage way, to welcome them when they came.</p> + +<p>The stalls for the cows were all beautifully made, and they were painted +and decorated in such an extraordinary manner, that no one could have +imagined for what use they were intended. The floors for them were made +of the glazed tiles so often used in Holland, and the partitions between +them were nicely rubbed as bright as a lady's sideboard. The cribs, too, +were now, in the absence of the cows, occupied with various little +<i>étagères</i>, and sets of shelves, which were covered with fancy cups and +saucers, china images, and curiosities of all sorts,—the Dutch +housewives taking a special pride in the collection of such things.</p> + +<p>The row of cribs was separated from the floor of the passage way by a +sort of trench, about a foot and a half wide and ten inches deep, and +outside this trench, and also within it, at the entrances to the cribs, +were arrayed a great number of utensils employed in the work of the +dairy, such as tubs, cans, cheese presses, moulds, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span> other such +things. These were all beautifully made, and being mounted with brass, +which had received the highest polish by constant rubbing, they gave to +the whole aspect of the place an exceedingly gay and brilliant +appearance.</p> + +<p>Some of this apparatus was in use. There were tubs standing, with the +curd or whey in them, and cheeses in press or in pickle, and various +other indications that the establishment was a genuine one, and was then +in active operation. The cheeses were of the round kind, so often seen +for sale at the grocers' stores in Boston and New York. They looked like +so many big cannon balls.</p> + +<p>After walking down the passage way that led by the side of cribs, and +examining all these things in detail, the party returned to the door +where they had come in, and then, turning to the left, went into the +rooms of the house. The first room was the bedroom. The second was the +parlor. These rooms were both completely crowded with antique looking +furniture, among which were cabinets of Chinese ware, and ornaments of +every kind; and all was in such a brilliant condition of nicety and +polish, as made the spectacle wonderful to behold.</p> + +<p>The bed was in a recess, shut up by doors.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span> When the doors were opened +the bed place looked precisely like a berth on board ship.</p> + +<p>After looking at all these things as long as they wished, Mr. George and +Rollo bade the woman good by, and James gave her half a guilder. The +party then withdrew.</p> + +<p>"Well, uncle George," said Rollo, "and what do you think of that?"</p> + +<p>"I think it is a very extraordinary spectacle," said Mr. George. "And it +is very curious to think how such a state of things has come about."</p> + +<p>"And how has it come about?" asked Rollo.</p> + +<p>"Why, here," replied Mr. George, "for a thousand years, for aught I +know, the people have been living from generation to generation with no +other employment than taking care of the cows that feed on the polders +around, and making the milk into cheese. That is a business which +requires neatness. Every kind of dairy business does. So that here is a +place where a current was set towards neatness a thousand years ago, and +it has been running ever since, and this is what it has come to."</p> + +<p>Talking in this manner of what they had seen, Mr. George and Rollo +returned to the inn, and there they found an excellent breakfast. They<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span> +were waited upon at the table by the young woman who had so many golden +ornaments in her hair; and besides the <i>biftek aux pommes</i>, and the +coffee, and the hot milk, and the nice butter, there was the half of one +of the round cheeses, such as they had seen in process of making at the +dairy.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i197.jpg" width="600" height="498" alt="" title="chapter endpiece" /> +</div> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Chapter_XI" id="Chapter_XI"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter XI.</span></h2> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Conclusion.</span></h3> + + +<p>After finishing their breakfast, Mr. George and Rollo entered the +carriage again, and returned by the same way that they came, for some +miles towards Amsterdam, until they came to the place where the road +turned off to go to Saandam. After proceeding for some distance upon one +of the inland dikes, they came at length to the margin of the sea, and +then for several miles the road lay along the great sea dike, which here +defends the land from the ingress of the ocean.</p> + +<p>"Ah," said Mr. George, as soon as they entered upon this portion of the +road, "here we come to one of the great sea dikes. How glad I am."</p> + +<p>"So am I," said Rollo. "I wanted to see one of the sea dikes."</p> + +<p>"It is very much like the others," said Mr. George, "only it is much +larger."</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Rollo, "and see how it winds about along the shore."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span></p> + +<p>In looking forward in the direction in which Rollo pointed, the dike +could be traced for a long distance in its course, like an immense +railroad embankment, winding in and out in a most remarkable manner, in +conformity to the indentations of the shore. In one respect it differed +from a railroad embankment, namely, in being bordered and overshadowed +by avenues of immense trees, which showed how many ages ago the dike had +been built. There is not a railroad embankment in the world that has +been built long enough for such immense trees to have had time to grow.</p> + +<p>The carriage road lay along the top of the dike, which was very broad, +and the slopes of it, towards the water on one side, and towards the low +meadow lands on the other, were very gradual. Men were at work every +where along these slopes, cutting the second crop of grass, and making +it into hay. Where the hay was ready to be got in, the men were at work +loading it into boats that lay in the little canals that extend along +the sides of the dike at the foot of the slopes.</p> + +<p>Wind mills were to be seen every where, all about the horizon. As the +road approached Saandam, these mills became more and more numerous.</p> + +<p>"I mean to see if I can count them," said Rollo.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span></p> + +<p>"You cannot count them, I am sure," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>Rollo began; but when he got up to a hundred, he gave up the undertaking +in despair. Mr. George told him that he read in the guide book that +there were four thousand wind mills in that region.</p> + +<p>Some of these wind mills were very small indeed; and there were two or +three which looked so "cunning," as Rollo said, that he wished very much +that he had one of them to take with him to America.</p> + +<p>The use of these very small wind mills was to pump up the water from +some very limited tract of land, which, for some reason or other, +happened to lie a few inches lower than the rest.</p> + +<p>At last, after an infinite number of turnings and windings, by means of +which every part of the surrounding country was brought in succession +into view before Mr. George and Rollo as they sat in their carriage, +they arrived at the town of Saandam.</p> + +<p>The town consists of two streets, one on each embankment of a great +canal. The streets are closely built up for many miles along the canal, +but the town does not extend laterally at all, on account of the ground +falling off immediately to very low polders.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i202.jpg" width="600" height="353" alt="" title="" /> +<span class="caption">CABIN OF PETER THE GREAT.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span><br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span></p> + +<p>After entering the street the commissioner left the carriage, in order +that the horses might rest, and led Mr. George and Rollo on a walk +through the prettiest part of the town. They walked about half a mile +along the canal on one side, and then, crossing by a ferry, they came +back on the other side.</p> + +<p>In the course of this walk they went to see the hut where Peter the +Great lived while he was in Holland engaged in studying ship building in +the ship yards of Saandam. The hut itself was old and dilapidated; but +it was covered and protected by a good, substantial building of brick, +with open arches all around, which allowed the hut to be seen, while the +roof and walls of the building protected it from the rain. The hut was +situated in a very pretty little garden.</p> + +<p>There were two rooms in the hut, and one of them—the one shown in the +engraving—had a very curious-looking Dutch fireplace in one corner of +it, and a ladder to go up to the loft above. The chairs were very +curious indeed; the seats being three-cornered, and the back and arms +being constructed in a very singular manner.</p> + +<p>The walls of the rooms were perfectly covered, in every part, with the +names of visitors, who had come from all countries to see the rooms. +Besides these, there were a great many volumes of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span> books filled with +names. These books lay on a great table, which stood at one side of the +room. There was one of the books which was not yet full, and this one +lay open on the table, with a pen and ink near it, in order that fresh +visitors, as fast as they came, might enter their names.</p> + +<p>After looking at this cabin as long as they wished, and entering their +names in the book, Mr. George and Rollo left the hut and returned +through one of the main streets of the town to the place where they had +left their carriage. The carriage was soon ready for them, and they set +out to go back to Amsterdam.</p> + +<p>They had a delightful drive back, going as they came, on the top of the +great sea dike. On one side they could look off over a wide expanse of +water, with boats, and steamers, and ships moving to and fro in every +direction over it. On the other side they overlooked a still wider +expanse of low and level green fields, intersected every where with +canals of water and avenues of trees, and with a perfect forest of wind +mills in the horizon.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>As they were riding quietly along upon this dike on the return to +Amsterdam, Rollo had the opportunity of imparting to Mr. George some +valuable information in respect to Peter the Great.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span></p> + +<p>"I am glad that I have had an opportunity to see the workshop of Peter +the Great," said Mr. George. "It is very curious indeed. But I don't +know much about Peter the Great. The first opportunity I get I mean to +read an account of his life, and I advise you to do the same."</p> + +<p>"I have read about him," said Rollo. "I found a book about him in a +steamboat that we came in, and I read all about his coming to Holland."</p> + +<p>"Then tell me about it," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Why, you see," said Rollo, "he was at war with the Turks, and he fought +them and drove them off to the southward, until at last he came to the +Sea of Asoph. Then he could not fight them any more, unless he could get +some ships. So he made a law for all the great boyars of his kingdom, +that every one of them must build or buy him a ship. What are boyars, +uncle George?"</p> + +<p>"Nobles," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"I thought it must be something like that," replied Rollo.</p> + +<p>"The old nobility of those Russian countries are called boyars," said +Mr. George; "but I don't know why. Most of the common people are slaves +to them."</p> + +<p>"Well, at any rate," said Rollo, "he made a law that every one of them, +or at least all that were rich enough, should build or buy him a ship;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span> +but they did not know how to build ships themselves, and so they were +obliged to send to Holland for ship builders. They built more and better +ships in Holland in those days than in any country in the world."</p> + +<p>"Yes, I suppose so," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"The boyars did not like it very well to be obliged to build these +ships," continued Rollo. "And there was another thing that they disliked +still more."</p> + +<p>"What was that?" asked Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Why, the emperor made them send off their sons to be educated in +different foreign countries," replied Rollo. "You see, in those days +Russia was very little civilized, and Peter concluded that it would help +to introduce civilization into the country, if the sons of the principal +men went to other great cities for some years, to study sciences and +arts. So he sent some of them to Paris, and some to Berlin, and some to +Amsterdam, and some to Rome. But most of them did not like to go."</p> + +<p>"That's strange," said Mr. George. "I should have thought they would +have liked to go very much."</p> + +<p>"At least their fathers did not like to send them," said Rollo; "perhaps +on account of the expense; and some of the young men did not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span> like to +go. There was one that was sent to Venice, in order that he might see +and learn every thing that he could there, that would be of advantage to +his own country; but he was so cross about it that when he got to Venice +he shut himself up in his house, and declared that he would not see or +learn any thing at all."</p> + +<p>"He was a very foolish fellow, I think," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Rollo, "I think he was. But I've seen boys in school act +just so. They get put out with the teacher for something or other, and +then they won't try to understand the lesson."</p> + +<p>"That is punishing themselves, and not the teacher," said Mr. George. +"But go on about Peter."</p> + +<p>"After a while," continued Rollo, "Peter concluded to make a journey +himself. His plan was to go to all the most civilized countries, and +into all the finest cities in Europe, and see what he could learn that +would be of use in his own dominions. So he fitted out a grand +expedition. He took a number of ambassadors, and generals, and great +potentates of all kinds with him. These men were dressed in splendid +uniforms, and travelled in great state, and had grand receptions in all +the great towns that they came to. But Peter himself did nothing of the +kind. He<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span> dressed plainly, like a common man, so that wherever he went +he could ramble about at liberty, and see what he wanted to see in peace +and quietness, while all the people were running after the procession of +ambassadors and grandees."</p> + +<p>"That was a good plan," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"An excellent plan," rejoined Rollo. "In some of the seaports that he +visited, he used to put on a sort of a pea jacket, such as the Dutch +skippers wore, and go about in that, along the wharves and docks, and +look at all the shipping.</p> + +<p>"But he was most interested in going to Holland," continued Rollo, "for +that was the country where they built the best ships. Besides, the first +vessel that he ever saw happened to be a Dutch vessel. I forgot to tell +you about that."</p> + +<p>"Yes," replied Mr. George, "tell me now."</p> + +<p>"Why, it was some years before this time," said Rollo,—"two or three I +believe,—that he first saw a vessel. There was a country place with a +handsome house and pleasure grounds, belonging to the royal family. I +forget what the name of it was. But that is no matter. One time, after +Peter came to the throne, he went out to this country place to spend a +few days. He found on the grounds a sort of artificial winding canal or +pond, with pretty trees on the banks of it. On this canal was a yacht, +which had been built in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span> Holland and brought there, for the people to +sail in when they came to that palace. The yacht had not been used much, +and was lying neglected at the wharf. But Peter immediately had it put +in order, and took a sail in it, and he liked it very much indeed."</p> + +<p>"Was it the first vessel that he ever saw?" asked Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Rollo, "I believe it was; or at least it was the first that +he ever particularly noticed. He liked sailing in it, and then, besides, +there was one of his officers there, who had travelled in other +countries in Europe where people had ships and navies, and he told Peter +what great advantages they gained from them, not only in carrying goods +from place to place, but in transporting armies, and fighting their +enemies at sea.</p> + +<p>"Peter thought a great deal about this, and when he went back to Moscow, +which was then the capital, he inquired and found that there were some +people from Holland there. He asked them if they knew how to build +ships. Some of them said they did. Then he asked them if they could not +build him some small vessels, just like the Dutch ships of war. They +said they could. So he made a bargain with them, and they built him +several.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Do you know how many?" asked Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Not exactly," replied Rollo. "There were several small vessels, and I +remember that there were four frigates, and each frigate had four guns. +I don't suppose the guns were very large."</p> + +<p>"Four guns is a very small armament for a frigate," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Yes," replied Rollo, "very small indeed. But you see, Peter did not +want them for real service, but only for models, as it were."</p> + +<p>"And what did he do with them, when they were done?" asked Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"They were launched into a lake there was in that part of the country," +said Rollo, "and there the emperor used to sail about in them, and have +sham fights.</p> + +<p>"But all this, you must understand," continued Rollo, "took place two or +three years before Peter drove the Turks off from the southern part of +his empire, so as to get to the sea. And it was not till then that he +began to have real ships built of large size. And now, when he was going +to Holland, he of course remembered the old Dutch yacht which he had on +his pleasure grounds, and the small frigates which they had built him, +and the large ones too, which they had built for the boyars, and he felt +a great interest in going to see the ship yards. He determined that +while he<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span> was in Holland he would spend as much time as he could in +learning all about ship building.</p> + +<p>"It is very curious about the emperor and his company's entering +Amsterdam," continued Rollo. "When the government there heard that he +was coming, they made grand preparations to receive him. They got the +cannon all ready on the ramparts to fire salutes, and drew out the +soldiers, and all the doors and windows were crowded with spectators. +They prepared a great number of illuminations, too, and fireworks, for +the night. But just before the party arrived at Amsterdam, the emperor +slipped away in a plain dress, and left the ambassadors, and generals, +and grandees to go in by themselves. The people of Amsterdam did not +know this. They supposed that some one or other of the people dressed so +splendidly, in the procession, was Peter; and so they shouted, and waved +their flags and their handkerchiefs, and fired the cannon, and made a +great parade generally."</p> + +<p>"And Peter himself was not there at all?" said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"No," said Rollo. "He slipped away, and came in privately with a few +merchants to accompany him. And instead of going to the great palace +which the government of Amsterdam had provided and fitted up for him, he +left that to his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span> ambassadors, and went himself to a small house, by a +ship yard, where he could be at liberty, and go and come when he +pleased."</p> + +<p>"And afterwards, I suppose he went to Saandam," said Mr. George.</p> + +<p>"Yes, sir," replied Rollo. "Saandam was a great place for building ships +in those days. They say that while he was there, he went to work +regularly, like a ship carpenter, as if he wished to learn the trade +himself. But I don't believe he worked a great deal."</p> + +<p>"No," said Mr. George. "I presume he did not. He probably took the +character and dress of a workman chiefly for the purpose of making +himself more at home in the ship yards and about the wharves. Indeed, I +can't see what useful end could be gained by his learning to do work +himself. He could not expect to build ships himself when he should +return to Russia."</p> + +<p>"No," said Rollo. "I expect he wanted to see exactly how the ships were +built, and how the yards were managed, and he thought he could do this +better if he went among the workmen as one of their number."</p> + +<p>"I presume so," said Mr. George. "I am very glad you found the book, and +I am much obliged to you for all this information."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span></p> + +<p>Soon after this Mr. George and Rollo arrived safely at Amsterdam.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>Rollo and Mr. George remained, after this, some days in Amsterdam; and +they were very much entertained with what they saw there in the streets, +and with the curious manners and customs of the people.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span></p> + +<div class="footnotes"> + +<h3>FOOTNOTES</h3> +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> See <a href='#frontis'><b>Frontispiece.</b></a></p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> A Hansom cab is made like an old-fashioned chaise, only +that it is set very low, so that it is extremely easy to step in and out +of it, and the seat of the driver is high up behind. The driver drives +<i>over the top of the chaise</i>! Thus the view for the passengers riding +inside is wholly unobstructed, and this makes the Hansom cab a very +convenient and pleasant vehicle for two persons to ride in, through the +streets of a new and strange town.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Pronounced <i>tahble dote</i>.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> In French, <i>Hotel Belle Vue</i>; but Mr. George gave it the +English pronunciation, because the pronunciation of words in Holland is +much more like the English than like the French.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Almost all the bedrooms in the hotels on the continent of +Europe are furnished thus with two single beds, instead of one double +one. It is the custom for every body to sleep alone.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> Edward was Mr. George's brother. He was a boy about twelve +years old.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> The Y is the name of the sheet of water which lies before +Amsterdam. It is a sort of harbor.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> Pronounced <i>biftek-o-pom</i>. This is a very favorite +breakfast in France, and every where, in fact, throughout Europe. Mr. +George liked it better than any thing else, not only for his breakfast, +but also for his dinner. It consists of very tender beefsteaks, +deliciously seasoned, and accompanied with sliced potatoes, fried in a +peculiar manner, and arranged all around the margin of the dish.</p></div> +</div> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span></p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h2>PUBLICATIONS OF</h2> + +<h3>BROWN, TAGGARD & CHASE,</h3> + +<p class="center">SUCCESSORS TO<br /><br /> + +W. J. REYNOLDS & CO., No. 24 Cornhill, Boston.</p> + + +<h2>ROLLO'S TOUR IN EUROPE:</h2> + +<h4>BEING A NEW SERIES OF</h4> + +<h3>ROLLO BOOKS,</h3> + +<h3>BY REV. JACOB ABBOTT.</h3> + +<h4>IN SIX VOLUMES, BEAUTIFULLY ILLUSTRATED.</h4> + +<p class="center"><i>Extract from the Preface.</i></p> + +<p>In this series of narratives we offer to the readers of the Rollo Books +a continuation of the history of our little hero, by giving them an +account of the adventures which such a boy may be expected to meet with +in making a tour of Europe. The books are intended to be books of +instruction rather than of mere amusement; and, in perusing them, the +reader may feel assured that all the information which they contain, not +only in respect to the countries visited, but to the customs, usages, +and modes of life that are described, and also in regard to the general +character of the incidents and adventures that the young travellers meet +with, is in most strict accordance with fact. The main design of the +narratives is, thus, the communication of useful knowledge; and +everything which they contain, except what is strictly personal, in +relation to the actors in the story, may be depended upon as exactly and +scrupulously true.</p> + +<p class="center"><i>Notices of the Press.</i></p> + +<p>We know of no books that are so eagerly sought for by good boys and +girls as Mr. Abbott's new series of "Rollo Books."—<i>Hartford Christian +Secretary.</i></p> + +<p>Mr. Abbott has a singularly successful faculty of conveying instruction +with entertainment, and of interesting all classes of readers, but more +particularly the young. All will say that the more we have of such +useful and pleasant volumes the better.—<i>Salem Register.</i></p> + +<p>They give excellent lessons in Geography and History, in the most +pleasing forms. They are beautifully printed, and illustrated with fine +engravings.—<i>New Haven Palladium.</i></p> + +<p>There is no wonder that the "Rollo Books" are so extremely popular, for +we doubt if many of us "children of a larger growth" can escape their +fascination.—<i>Salem Observer.</i></p> + +<p>A careful perusal of the volume under notice (Switzerland) will give the +young reader not only as good a geographical knowledge of the country it +describes as would be obtained at a term at school, but will acquaint +him with the habits, manners, and characteristics of the people of +Switzerland.—<i>American Citizen</i>.</p> + +<p>No living man is his equal in story-telling for the young, and the book +will find its way into thousands of homes.—<i>Hartford Republican.</i></p> + +<p>They contain a great deal of useful information, conveyed in a most +pleasing and interesting manner.—<i>Boston Post.</i></p> + +<p>Written by one who has made the tour through which he carries his young +hero, and who, from long experience, knows how to please and instruct +his young readers, these volumes possess just the qualities to attract +those for whom they are intended.—<i>Norfolk Co. Journal.</i></p> + +<p>The author has admirably combined the pleasing with the instructive, so +that while the youthful reader is charmed by the narrative, he also +gains valuable information with regard to those far-off places famed in +story and song.—<i>Boston Olive Branch.</i></p> + +<p>A correspondent of the New York <i>National Magazine</i> says;—"The volumes +are beautifully illustrated, and written in the charming and instructive +style of the author. We saw one of our New England governors, lately +returned from a European tour, quite absorbed in the volume upon Paris, +while travelling in a railway car, a short time since."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span></p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<h2>CUSHING'S MANUAL.</h2> + +<h4>Price 38 cents.</h4> + +<h3>NOTICES OF A NEW WORK ON PARLIAMENTARY RULES,</h3> + +<h3>By LUTHER S. CUSHING,</h3> + +<h4>TWELVE YEARS CLERK OF THE MASSACHUSETTS HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES.</h4> + +<p class="center"><i>From S. H. Walley, late Speaker of the Massachusetts House of +Representatives.</i></p> + +<p>I have taken great pleasure in examining the pages of this work, and do +not hesitate to express most fully my approbation of its plan and +execution.</p> + +<p>On two or three questions of minor importance, I might come to different +conclusions from the author;—but, inasmuch as he has devoted much time +to a careful research into the subject of parliamentary rules and +practice, I am free to admit, that I should feel great distrust in any +opinions which I have held, even on these questions, where they differ +from those expressed by Judge Cushing, without very careful +reëxamination and study.</p> + +<p>This Manual is much needed. There is no work, in this country, which is +adapted near as well, in my judgment, to assist those who are called +upon to preside in public assemblies, to discharge their duties +acceptably and profitably to the community.</p> + +<p>I sincerely hope and believe that this publication will receive the +countenance and approbation to which it seems to me so justly entitled.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p class="center"><i>From the Law Reporter, Edited by Peleg W. Chandler, Esq.</i></p> + +<p>Hon. Luther S. Cushing has prepared for the press a new Manual of +Parliamentary Practice. Having examined the manuscript of this work with +considerable care, we take occasion to say, that it will be a valuable +accession to the libraries of those who are called upon to preside in +deliberative assemblies; and we believe the necessity of such a work as +this has been very generally felt in our country where almost every +citizen is occasionally called upon to exercise the duties of a +presiding officer. The work is founded upon the well-established rules +and customs of the British Parliament, and Mr. Cushing divests himself +of all local usages prevailing in different parts of this country; +maintaining in the outset, that no assembly can ever be subject to any +other rules than those which are of general application, or which it +specially adopts for its own government; and denying explicitly that the +rules adopted and practised upon by a legislative assembly thereby +acquire the character of general laws.</p> + + +<p class="center">PUBLISHED BY<br /> + +BROWN, TAGGARD & CHASE,<br /> +(SUCCESSORS TO W. J. REYNOLDS & CO.,)<br /><br /> + +NO. 24 CORNHILL<br /> +FOR SALE BY ALL BOOKSELLERS.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span></p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<h2>THE COLUMBIAN GLEE BOOK.</h2> + +<h3>OR, MUSIC FOR THE MILLION.</h3> + +<h4>IN THREE PARTS.</h4> + +<blockquote><p><i>Part I.—Comprising the largest number of choice Glees, Quartets, +Trios, Songs, Opera Choruses, &c., ever before published in one +Collection.</i></p> + +<p><i>Part II.—Consisting of Sacred Anthems, Choruses, Quartets, &c., for +Select Societies and Concerts.</i></p> + +<p><i>Part III.—Containing most of the old popular Continental Psalm Tunes.</i></p> +</blockquote> + +<p>Thus making the most complete collection, in all its features, ever +before published.</p> + +<p class="center">By I. B. WOODBURY, author of the "Dulcimer," "The Cythara," &c. &c.</p> + +<p class="center"><i>Extract from the Preface.</i></p> + +<p>Here may be found Glees, Quartets, Trios and Songs, suited to every +occasion. If merry, here are pieces that will add to merriment; if sad, +harmonies that will soothe sadness. If longing for home fill the mind, +the dear scenes that cluster there are painted in many a song. Requiems +to the loved departed are also here. Indeed, almost every scene to which +the chequered life of man is subject is here made the refrain of song. +For the Sabbath eve, when</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 3em;">"Softly fades the twilight ray</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 3em;">Of the holy Sabbath day,"</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>and when music is particularly acceptable, the old tunes our fathers +sang may be found in Part III. Part II. is somewhat more elaborate, and +adapted to Sacred Concerts. That the book may tend to make man happier +and better is the sincere desire of the author.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3>THE AMERICAN VOCALIST.</h3> + +<h4>A SELECTION OF TUNES, ANTHEMS, SENTENCES AND HYMNS,</h4> + +<p class="center"><i>Old and new. Designed for the Church, the Vestry, or the Parlor.</i></p> + +<p>Adapted to every variety of metre in common use, and appropriate to +every occasion where God is worshipped and men are blessed. From the +compositions of Billings, Holden, Maxim, Edson, Holyoke, Read, Kimball, +Morgan, Wood, Swan, &c. &c., and eminent American authors now living, as +well as from distinguished European composers. Embracing a greater +variety of Music for Congregations, Societies, Singing Schools, and +Choirs, than any other collection extant.</p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">In Three Parts. By Rev. D. H. Mansfield.</span></p> + +<p>The publishers have received, <i>unsolicited</i>, the highest recommendations +from gentlemen of musical education; and they respectfully call the +attention of leaders of choirs and teachers of singing schools +throughout New England, to this work, before purchasing their books for +fall and winter schools. Nearly one hundred thousand copies have been +sold since it was first published.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3>THE CYTHARA.</h3> + +<h4>A NEW AND EXTENSIVE COLLECTION OF SACRED MUSIC.</h4> + +<p>Comprising <span class="smcap">Psalm and Hymn Tunes</span>, of every variety and metre, <span class="smcap">Anthems</span>, +<span class="smcap">Chants</span>, <span class="smcap">an Oratorio, Set Pieces, etc.</span></p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">By</span> I. B. WOODBURY.</p> + +<p class="center">Author of the "Dulcimer," of which more than 140,000 copies have been +sold.</p> + +<p>Mr. Woodbury's long residence in Europe, and his intimate acquaintance +with the music and musical people of every section of our country, their +wants and predilections, have imparted to him advantages hardly +vouchsafed to any other man. To these qualifications he brings the vigor +and elasticity of early manhood, and, after years of untiring and +energetic devotion to this one subject, he has produced a volume of +Sacred Music, rich in melody, chaste and harmonious in composition, +simple in arrangement, and thoroughly adapted to the wants of his own +country.</p> + + +<p class="center">B. T. & C. have for sale <i>all the Music Books</i> published. Traders, +Teachers, and others supplied at the lowest cash price.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span></p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p>COLBURN'S FIRST LESSONS. Intellectual Arithmetic, upon the Inductive +Method of Instruction. By Warren Colburn.</p> + +<p>"Colburn's First Lessons, the only faultiest school book that we have, +has made a great change in the mode of teaching Arithmetic, and is +destined to make a still greater. It should be made the basis of +instruction in this department."—<i>From the School and Schoolmaster.</i></p> + +<p>"Warren Colburn's First Lessons has had many imitators, but no +equals."—<i>From the Massachusetts Common School Journal for April, +1852.</i></p> + +<p>"I have always considered Colburn's First Lessons in Arithmetic the most +valuable school book that has made its appearance in this country. +Constant use of it for more than twelve years has entirely confirmed my +opinion.—<i>George B. Emerson.</i></p> + +<p>"I have no hesitation in saying that this book is not only the best in +this country, but, so far as my information extends, <i>the best in the +world</i>."—<i>Thomas Sherwin, Esq., of the Boston High School.</i></p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>WORCESTER'S HISTORY. Elements of History, Ancient and Modern. By <span class="smcap">J. E. +Worcester, LL.D.</span> A new edition, brought down to the Present Time, and +printed from entirely new stereotype plates. 438 pp.</p> + +<p>Worcester's History has for many years occupied a high place among text +books. The new edition, being printed from entirely new stereotype +plates, is a great improvement upon former editions. Applicants for +admission into the Freshman class at Harvard College are examined in +this book.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>SMELLIE'S PHILOSOPHY. The Philosophy of Natural History. By <span class="smcap">Wm. Smellie</span>. +With an Introduction and Addition by Dr. John Ware, of Cambridge, Mass. +12mo, 360 pp.</p> + +<p>Smellie's Philosophy is a valuable book for High Schools and Academies, +and is used extensively in every part of the country.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>NORTHEND'S BOOK KEEPING. The Common School Book Keeping; being a simple +and practical system, by Single Entry. Designed for the use of Public +Schools, and adapted to the wants of Mechanics, Farmers, and Retail +Merchants; containing various forms of Notes, Receipts, Orders, Bills, +and other useful matter; in two books, a Day-book and Ledger. By Charles +Northend, author of "National Writing Book," "National Speaker," etc.</p> + +<p>In preparing this system the author has endeavored to make a plain, +practical, and <i>economical</i> work, suited to the wants of common schools +and retail merchants in every department of business.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>CUSHING'S MANUAL. Rules of Proceeding and Debate in Deliberative +Assemblies. By Luther S. Cushing, for twelve years Clerk of +Massachusetts House of Representatives.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>BENTLEY'S PICTORIAL PRIMER. For beginners. One of the most beautiful +school books published.</p> + +<p>Copies of all the above book will be sent to school committees, for +examination, on application.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3>MY UNCLE TOBY'S LIBRARY,</h3> + +<h4>By FRANCIS FORRESTER, Esq.,</h4> + +<p class="center">Consists of <span class="smcap">twelve volumes</span>, elegantly bound, and Illustrated with +upwards of SIXTY BEAUTIFUL ENGRAVINGS.</p> + +<ul class="none"><li>1. <i>Arthur Ellerslie</i>, or The Brave Boy.</li> +<li>2. <i>Redbrook</i>, or Who'll buy my Watercresses?</li> +<li>3. <i>Minnie Brown</i>, or The Gentle Girl.</li> +<li>4. <i>Ralph Ratler</i>, or The Mischief Maker.</li> +<li>5. <i>Arthur's Temptation</i>, or The Lost Goblet.</li> +<li>6. <i>Aunt Amy</i>, or How Minnie Brown Learned to be a Sunbeam.</li> +<li>7. <i>The Runaway</i>, or Punishment of Pride.</li> +<li>8. <i>Fretful Lillia</i>, or The Girl who was compared to a Sting-nettle.</li> +<li>9. <i>Minnie's Pic-nic</i>, or a Day in the Woods.</li> +<li>10. <i>Cousin Nelly</i>, or The Pleasant Visit.</li> +<li>11. <i>Minnie's Playroom</i>, or how to Play Calisthenica.</li> +<li>12. <i>Arthur's Triumph</i>, or Goodness Rewarded.</li></ul> + + + +<p>The books are so written that, while each number is a complete story in +itself, there is, nevertheless, a connection between the whole series.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>In addition to their own publications, B. T. & C. are supplied with a +large stock of School Books, Music Books, and Stationery, which they +offer to purchasers <i>at lowest prices</i>.</p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Rollo in Holland, by Jacob Abbott + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ROLLO IN HOLLAND *** + +***** This file should be named 22972-h.htm or 22972-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/2/9/7/22972/ + +Produced by D. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Rollo in Holland + +Author: Jacob Abbott + +Release Date: October 12, 2007 [EBook #22972] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ROLLO IN HOLLAND *** + + + + +Produced by D. Alexander, Janet Blenkinship and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive) + + + + + + + + + +ROLLO IN HOLLAND, + +BY + +JACOB ABBOTT. + + +BOSTON: BROWN, TAGGARD & CHASE, + +SUCCESSORS TO W. J. REYNOLDS & CO., 25 & 29 CORNHILL. + +1857. + +Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1857, by +JACOB ABBOTT, +In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of +Massachusetts. + +STEREOTYPED AT THE +BOSTON STEREOTYPE FOUNDRY. Damrell & Moore, Printers, Boston. + + + + +[Illustration: ROLLO IN HOLLAND.] + + + + +CONTENTS. + +CHAPTER PAGE + + I.--PREPARATIONS, 11 + II.--A BAD TRAVELLING COMPANION, 26 + III.--THE MAIL STEAMER, 44 + IV.--ENTERING HOLLAND, 67 + V.--WALKS ABOUT ROTTERDAM, 86 + VI.--DOING THE HAGUE, 109 + VII.--CORRESPONDENCE, 138 + VIII.--THE COMMISSIONER, 160 + IX.--THE GREAT CANAL, 169 + X.--THE DAIRY VILLAGE, 186 + XI.--CONCLUSION, 200 + +ENGRAVINGS. + + ROLLO IN HOLLAND.--(Frontispiece.) PAGE + VIEW IN HOLLAND, 10 + THE HANSOM CAB, 33 + LANDING FROM THE MAIL BOAT, 57 + DORT, 83 + THE FERRY BOAT, 101 + THE DINNER, 124 + THE BOAT FAMILY, 154 + THE TREKSCHUYT, 181 + THE DAIRY VILLAGE, 193 + CABIN OF PETER THE GREAT, 204 + + + ROLLO'S TOUR IN EUROPE. + + ORDER OF THE VOLUMES. + + ROLLO ON THE ATLANTIC. + ROLLO IN PARIS. + ROLLO IN SWITZERLAND. + ROLLO IN LONDON. + ROLLO ON THE RHINE. + ROLLO IN SCOTLAND. + ROLLO IN GENEVA. + ROLLO IN HOLLAND. + ROLLO IN NAPLES. + ROLLO IN ROME. + +[Illustration: VIEW IN HOLLAND.] + + + + +ROLLO IN HOLLAND. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +PREPARATIONS. + + +Holland is one of the most remarkable countries on the globe. The +peculiarities which make it remarkable arise from the fact that it is +almost perfectly level throughout, and it lies so low. A very large +portion of it, in fact, lies below the level of the sea, the waters +being kept out, as every body knows, by immense dikes that have stood +for ages. + +These dikes are so immense, and they are so concealed by the houses, and +trees, and mills, and even villages that cover and disguise them, that +when the traveller first sees them he can hardly believe that they are +dikes. Some of them are several hundred feet wide, and have a good broad +public road upon the top, with a canal perhaps by the side of it, and +avenues of trees, and road-side inns, and immense wind mills on the +other hand. When riding or walking along upon such a dike on one side, +down a long slope, they have a glimpse of water between the trees. On +the other, at an equal distance you see a green expanse of country, with +gardens, orchards, fields of corn and grain, and scattered farm houses +extending far and wide. At first you do not perceive that this beautiful +country that you see spreading in every direction on one side of the +road is below the level of the water that you see on the other side; but +on a careful comparison you find that it is so. When the tide is high +the difference is very great, and were it not for the dikes the people +would be inundated.[1] + +[Footnote 1: See Frontispiece.] + +Indeed, the dikes alone would not prevent the country from being +inundated; for it is not possible to make them perfectly tight, and even +if it were so, the soil beneath them is more or less pervious to water, +and thus the water of the sea and of the rivers would slowly press its +way through the lower strata, and oozing up into the land beyond, would +soon make it all a swamp. + +Then, besides the interpercolation from the soil, there is the rain. In +upland countries, the surplus water that falls in rain flows off in +brooks and rivers to the sea; but in land that is below the level of +the sea, there can be no natural flow of either brooks or rivers. The +rain water, therefore, that falls on this low land would remain there +stagnant, except the comparatively small portion of it that would be +evaporated by the sun and wind. + +Thus you see, that if the people of Holland were to rely on the dikes +alone to keep the land dry, the country would become in a very short +time one immense morass. + +To prevent this result it is necessary to adopt some plan to raise the +water, as fast as it accumulates in the low grounds, and convey it away. +This is done by pumps and other such hydraulic engines, and these are +worked in general by wind mills. + +They might be worked by steam engines; but steam engines are much more +expensive than wind mills. It not only costs much more to make them, but +the expense of working them from day to day is very great, on account of +the fuel which they require. The necessary attendance on a steam engine, +too, is very expensive. There must be engineers, with high pay, to watch +the engine and to keep it always in order, and firemen to feed the +fires, and ashmen to carry away the ashes and cinders. Whereas a wind +mill takes care of itself. + +The wind makes the wind mills go, and the wind costs nothing. It is +true, that the head of the mill must be changed from time to time, so as +to present the sails always in proper direction to the wind. But even +this is done by the wind itself. There is a contrivance by which the +mill is made to turn itself so as to face always in the right direction +towards the wind; and not only so, but the mill is sometimes so +constructed that if the wind blows too hard, it takes in a part of the +sails by its own spontaneous action, and thus diminishes the strain +which might otherwise be injurious to the machinery. + +Now, since the advantages of wind mills are so great over steam engines, +in respect especially to cheapness, perhaps you will ask why steam is +employed at all to turn machinery, instead of always using the wind. The +reason is, because the wind is so unsteady. Some days a wind mill will +work, and some days it will lie still; and thus in regard to the time +when it will do what is required of it, no reliance can be placed upon +it. This is of very little consequence in the work of pumping up water +from the sunken country in Holland; for, if for several days the mills +should not do their work, no great harm would come of it, since the +amount of water which would accumulate in that time would not do any +harm. The ground might become more wet, and the canals and reservoirs +get full,--just as brooks and rivers do on any upland country after a +long rain. But then, after the calm was over and the wind began to blow +again, the mills would all go industriously to work, and the surplus +water would soon be pumped up, and discharged over the dikes into the +sea again. + +Thus the irregularity in the action of the wind mills in doing such work +as this, is of comparatively little consequence. + +But in the case of some other kinds of work,--as for example the driving +of a cotton mill, or any other great manufactory in which a large number +of persons are employed,--it would be of the greatest possible +consequence; for when a calm time came, and the wind mill would not +work, all the hands would be thrown out of employ. They might sometimes +remain idle thus a number of days at a time, at a great expense to their +employers, or else at a great loss to themselves. Sometimes, for +example, there might be a fine breeze in the morning, and all the hands +would go to the mill and begin their work. In an hour the breeze might +entirely die away, and the spinners and weavers would all find their +jennies and looms going slower and slower, and finally stopping +altogether. And then, perhaps, two hours afterwards, when they had all +given up the day's work and gone away to their respective homes, the +breeze would spring up again, and the wind mill would go to work more +industriously than ever. + +This would not answer at all for a cotton mill, but it does very well +for pumping up water from a great reservoir into which drains and canals +discharge themselves to keep a country dry. + +And this reminds me of one great advantage which the people of Holland +enjoy on account of the low and level condition of their country; and +that is, it is extremely easy to make canals there. There are not only +no mountains or rocks in the way to impede the digging of them, but, +what is perhaps a still more important advantage, there is no difficulty +in filling them with water. In other countries, when a canal is to be +made, the very first question is, How is it to be filled? For this +purpose the engineer explores the whole country through which the canal +is to pass, to find rivers and streams that he can turn into it, when +the bed of it shall have been excavated; and sometimes he has to bring +these supplies of water for a great distance in artificial channels, +which often cross valleys by means of great aqueducts built up to hold +them. Sometimes a brook is in this way brought across a river,--the +river itself not being high enough to feed the canal. + +The people of Holland have no such difficulties as these to encounter in +their canals. The whole country being so nearly on a level with the sea, +they have nothing to do, when they wish for a canal, but to extend it in +some part to the sea shore, and then open a sluice way and let the water +in. + +It is true that sometimes they have to provide means to prevent the +ingress of too much water; but this is very easily done. + +It is thus so easy to make canals in Holland, that the people have been +making them for hundreds of years, until now almost the whole country is +intersected every where with canals, as other countries are with roads. +Almost all the traffic, and, until lately, almost all the travel of the +country, has been upon the canals. There are private canals, too, as +well as public. A farmer brings home his hay and grain from his fields +by water, and when he buys a new piece of land he makes a canal to it, +as a Vermont farmer would make a road to a new pasture or wood lot that +he had been buying. + +Rollo wished very much to see all these things--but there was one +question which it puzzled him very much to decide, and that was whether +he would rather go to Holland in the summer or in the winter. + +"I am not certain," said he to his mother one day, "whether it would not +be better for me to go in the winter." + +"It is very cold there in the winter," said his mother; "so I am told." + +"That is the very thing," said Rollo. "They have such excellent skating +on the canals. I want to see the boats go on the canals, and I want to +see the skating, and I don't know which I want to see most." + +"Yes," said his mother, "I recollect to have often seen pictures of +skating on the Dutch canals." + +"And I read, when I was a boy," continued Rollo, "that the women skate +to market in Holland." + +Rollo here observed that his mother was endeavoring to suppress a smile. +She seemed to try very hard, but she could not succeed in keeping +perfectly sober. + +"What are you laughing at, mother?" asked Rollo. + +Here Mrs. Holiday could no longer restrain herself, but laughed +outright. + +"Is it about the Dutch women skating to market?" asked Rollo. + +"I think they must look quite funny, at any rate," said Mrs. Holiday. + +What Mrs. Holiday was really laughing at was to hear Rollo talk about +"when he was a boy." But the fact was, that Rollo had now travelled +about so much, and taken care of himself in so many exigencies, that he +began to feel quite like a man. And indeed I do not think it at all +surprising that he felt so. + +"Which would you do, mother," said Rollo, "if you were I? Would you +rather go in the summer or in the winter?" + +"I would ask uncle George," said Mrs. Holiday. + +So Rollo went to find his uncle George. + +Rollo was at this time at Morley's Hotel, in London, and he expected to +find his uncle George in what is called the coffee room. The coffee room +in Morley's Hotel is a very pleasant place. It fronts on one side upon a +very busy and brilliant street, and on another upon a large open square, +adorned with monuments and fountains. On the side towards the square is +a bay window, and near this bay window were two or three small tables, +with gentlemen sitting at them, engaged in writing. There were other +tables along the sides of the room and at the other windows, where +gentlemen were taking breakfast. Mr. George was at one of the tables +near the bay window, and was busy writing. + +Rollo went to the place, and standing by Mr. George's side, he said in +an under tone,-- + +"Uncle George." + +Every body speaks in an under tone in an English coffee room. They do +this in order not to interrupt the conversation, or the reading, or the +writing of other gentlemen that may be in the room. + +"Wait a moment," said Mr. George, "till I finish this letter." + +So Rollo turned to the bay window and looked out, in order to amuse +himself with what he might observe in the street, till his uncle George +should be ready to talk with him. + +He saw the fountains in the square, and a great many children playing +about the basins. He saw a poor boy at a crossing brushing the pavement +industriously with an old broom, and then holding out his hand to the +people passing by, in hopes that some of them would give him a +halfpenny. He saw a policeman walking slowly up and down on the +sidewalk, wearing a glazed hat, and a uniform of blue broadcloth, with +his letter and number embroidered on the collar. He saw an elegant +carriage drive by, with a postilion riding upon one of the horses, and +two footmen in very splendid liveries behind. There was a lady in the +carriage, but she appeared old, and though she was splendidly dressed, +her face was very plain. + +"I wonder," said Rollo to himself, "how much she would give of her +riches and finery if she could be as young and as pretty as my cousin +Lucy." + +"Now, Rollo," said Mr. George, interrupting Rollo's reflections, "what +is the question?" + +"Why, I want to know," said Rollo, "whether you think we had better go +to Holland in the winter or in the summer." + +"Is it left to you to decide?" asked Mr. George. + +"Why, no," said Rollo, "not exactly. But mother asked me to consider +which I thought was best, and so I want to know your opinion." + +"Very well," said Mr. George, "go on and argue the case. After I have +heard it argued I will decide." + +Rollo then proceeded to explain to his uncle the advantages, +respectively, of going in the summer and in the winter. After hearing +him, Mr. George thought it would be decidedly better to go in the +summer. + +"You see," said he, "that the only advantage of going in the winter is +to see the skating. That is very important, I know. I should like to +see the Dutch women skating to market myself, very much. But then, in +the winter you could see very little of the canals, and the wind mills, +and all the other hydraulic operations of the country. Every thing would +be frozen up solid." + +"Father says that he can't go now very well," continued Rollo, "but that +I may go with you if you would like to go." + +Mr. George was just in the act of sealing his letter as Rollo spoke +these words; but he paused in the operation, holding the stick of +sealing wax in one hand and the letter in the other, as if he was +reflecting on what Rollo had said. + +"If we only had some one else to go with us," said Mr. George. + +"Should not we two be enough?" asked Rollo. + +"Why, you see," said Mr. George, "when we get into Holland we shall not +understand one word of the language." + +"What language do they speak?" asked Rollo. + +"Dutch," said Mr. George, "and I do not know any Dutch." + +"Not a word?" asked Rollo. + +"No," said Mr. George, "not a word. Ah, yes! I know one word. I know +that _dampschiff_ means steamboat. _Damp_, I suppose, means steam." + +Then Rollo laughed outright. Dampskiff, he said, was the funniest name +for steamboat that he ever heard. + +"Now, when we don't know a word of the language," added Mr. George, "we +cannot have any communication with the people of the country, but shall +be confined entirely to each other. Now, do you think that you could get +along with having nobody but me to talk to you for a whole fortnight?" + +"Yes, indeed!" said Rollo. "But then, uncle George," he continued, "how +are you going to get along at the hotels without knowing how to speak to +the people at all?" + +"By signs and gestures," said Mr. George, laughing. "Could not you make +a sign for something to eat?" + +"O, yes," said Rollo; and he immediately began to make believe eat, +moving his hands as if he had a knife and fork in them. + +"And what sign would you make for going to bed?" asked Mr. George. + +Here Rollo laid his head down to one side, and placed his hand under it, +as if it were a pillow, and then shut his eyes. + +"That is the sign for going to bed," said Rollo. "A deaf and dumb boy +taught it to me." + +"I wish he had taught you some more signs," said Mr. George. "Or I wish +we had a deaf and dumb boy here to go with us. Deaf and dumb people can +get along excellently well where they do not understand the language, +because they know how to make so many signs." + +"O, we can make up the signs as we go along," said Rollo. + +"Yes," said Mr. George. "I don't think that we shall have any great +difficulty about that. But then it would be pleasanter to go in a little +larger party. Two people are apt to get tired of each other, when there +is nobody else that they can speak a single word to for a whole +fortnight. I don't think that I should get tired of you. What I am +afraid of is, that you would get tired of me." + +There was a lurking smile on Mr. George's face as he said this. + +"O, uncle George!" said Rollo, "that is only your politeness. But then +if you really think that we ought to have some more company, perhaps the +Parkmans are going to Holland, and we might go with them." + +"I would not make a journey with the Parkmans," said Mr. George, "if +they would pay all my expenses, and give me five sovereigns a day." + +"Why, uncle George!" exclaimed Rollo; "I thought you liked Mr. Parkman +very much." + +"So I do," said Mr. George. "It is his wife that I would not go with." + +"O, uncle George!" exclaimed Rollo again. + +Rollo was very much surprised at hearing this declaration; and it was +very natural that he should be surprised, for Mrs. Parkman was a young +and beautiful lady, and she was very kindhearted and very amiable in +her disposition. Mr. Parkman, too, was very young. He had been one of +Mr. George's college classmates. He had been married only a short time +before he left America, and he was now making his bridal tour. + +Mr. George thought that Mrs. Parkman was very beautiful and very +intelligent, but he considered her a very uncomfortable travelling +companion. I think he judged her somewhat too harshly. But this was one +of Mr. George's faults. He did not like the ladies very much, and the +faults which he observed in them, from time to time, he was prone to +condemn much too harshly. + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +A BAD TRAVELLING COMPANION. + + +The reason why Mr. George did not like his friend Mr. Parkman's young +wife was not because of any want of natural attractiveness in her +person, or of amiableness in her disposition,--for she was beautiful, +accomplished, and kindhearted. But for all this, from a want of +consideration not uncommon among young ladies who are not much +experienced in the world, she was a very uncomfortable travelling +companion. + +It is the duty of a gentleman who has a lady under his charge, in making +a journey, to consult her wishes, and to conform to them so far as it is +possible, in determining where to go, and in making all the general +arrangements of the journey. But when these points are decided upon, +every thing in respect to the practical carrying into effect of the +plans thus formed should be left to the gentleman, as the executive +officer of the party; just as in respect to affairs relating to +housekeeping, or any thing else relating to a lady's department, the +lady should be left free to act according to her own judgment and taste +in arranging details, while in the general plans she conforms to the +wishes of her husband. For a lady, when travelling, to be continually +making suggestions and proposals about the baggage or the conveyances, +and expressing dissatisfaction, or wish for changes in this, that, or +the other, is as much a violation of propriety as it would be for the +gentleman to go into the kitchen, and there propose petty changes in +respect to the mode of cooking the dinner--or to stand by his wife at +her work table, and wish to have her thread changed from this place to +that--or to have some different stitch to be used in making a seam. A +lady very naturally feels disturbed if she finds that her husband does +not have confidence enough in her to trust her with such details. + +"I will make or mend for you whatever you may desire," she might say, +"and I will get for your dinner any thing that you ask for; but in the +way of doing it you ought to leave every thing to my direction. It is +better to let me have my own way, even if your way is better than mine. +For in matters of direction there ought always to be only one head, even +if it is not a very good one." + +And in the same manner a gentleman might say when travelling with a +lady,-- + +"I will arrange the journey to suit your wishes as far as is +practicable, and will go at such times and by such conveyances as you +may desire. I will also, at all the places where we stop, take you to +visit such objects of interest and curiosity as you wish to see. But +then when it comes to the details of the arrangements to be made,--the +orders to servants and commissioners, the determination of the times for +setting out, and the bargains to be made with coachmen and +innkeepers,--it is best to leave all those things to me; for it always +makes confusion to have two persons give directions at the same time." + +To say this would be right in both cases,--there must always be _one_ to +command. A great many families are kept in continual confusion by there +being two or more ladies who consider themselves more or less at the +head of it--as, for instance, a wife and a sister, or two sisters and a +mother. Napoleon used to say that _one_ bad general was better than +_two_ good ones; so important is it in war to have unity of command. It +is not much less important in social life. + +Mrs. Parkman did not understand this principle. Mr. George had seen an +example of her mode of management a day or two before, in taking a walk +with her and her husband in London. They were going to see the tunnel +under the Thames, which was three or four miles down the river from +Morley's Hotel, where they were all lodging. + +"Which way would you like to go?" asked Mr. Parkman. + +"Is there more than one way?" asked his wife. + +"Yes," said Mr. Parkman, "we can take a Hansom cab, and drive down +through the streets, or we can walk down to the river side, and there +take a boat. The boats are a great deal the cheapest, and the most +amusing; but the cab will be the most easy and comfortable, and the most +genteel. We shall have to walk nearly half a mile before we get to the +landing of the boats." + +"Is there much difference in the price?" asked Mrs. Parkman. + +"Not enough to be of any consequence," replied her husband. "It will +make a difference of about one and a half crown; for by the boats it +would be only two or three pence, while by the cab it will be as many +shillings. But that is of no consequence. We will go whichever way you +think you would enjoy the most." + +"You may decide for me," said Mrs. Parkman. "I'll leave it entirely to +you. It makes no difference to me." + +"Then, on the whole, I think we will try the boat," said Mr. Parkman; +"it will be so much more amusing, and we shall see so much more of +London life. Besides, we shall often read and hear about the steamers on +the Thames when we return to America, and it will be well for us to have +made one voyage in them. And, Mr. George, will you go with us?" + +"Yes," said Mr. George. + +So they all left the hotel together, and commenced their walk towards +the bridge where the nearest landing stage for the Thames boats lay. + +They had not gone but a very short distance before Mrs. Parkman began to +hang rather heavily upon her husband's arm, and asked him whether it was +much farther that they would have to walk. + +"O, yes," said Mr. Parkman. "I told you that we should have to walk +about half a mile." + +"Then we shall get all tired out," said his wife, "and we want our +strength for walking through the tunnel. It does not seem to be worth +while to take all this trouble just to save half a crown." + +Mr. Parkman, though he had only been married a little more than a month, +felt something like a sense of indignation rising in his breast, that +his wife should attribute to him such a motive for choosing the river, +after what he had said on the subject. But he suppressed the feeling, +and only replied quietly,-- + +"O, let us take a cab then, by all means. I hope you don't suppose that +I was going to take you by the boat to save any money." + +"I thought you said that you would save half a crown," rejoined his +wife. + +"Yes," said Mr. Parkman, "I did, it is true." + +Mr. Parkman was too proud to defend himself from such an imputation, +supported by such reasoning as this; so he only said, "We will go by a +cab. We will take a cab at the next stand." + +Mr. George instantly perceived that by this change in the plan, he was +made one too many for the party, since only two can ride conveniently in +a Hansom cab.[2] So he said at once, that he would adhere to the +original plan, and go by water. + +[Footnote 2: A Hansom cab is made like an old-fashioned chaise, only +that it is set very low, so that it is extremely easy to step in and out +of it, and the seat of the driver is high up behind. The driver drives +_over the top of the chaise_! Thus the view for the passengers riding +inside is wholly unobstructed, and this makes the Hansom cab a very +convenient and pleasant vehicle for two persons to ride in, through the +streets of a new and strange town.] + +"But, first," said he, "I will go with you to the stand, and see you +safe in a cab." + +So they turned into another street, and presently they came to a stand. +There was a long row of cabs there, of various kinds, all waiting to be +employed. Among them were several Hansoms. + +Mr. Parkman looked along the line to select one that had a good horse. +The distance was considerable that they had to go, and besides Mr. +Parkman knew that his wife liked always to go fast. So when he had +selected the best looking horse, he made a signal to the driver. The +driver immediately left the stand, and drove over to the sidewalk where +Mr. Parkman and his party were waiting. + +Mr. Parkman immediately opened the door of the cab to allow his wife to +go in; but she, instead of entering, began to look scrutinizingly into +it, and hung back. + +"Is this a nice cab?" said she. "It seems to me that I have seen nicer +cabs than this. + +"Let us look," she added, "and see if there is not a better one +somewhere along the line." + +The cabman, looking down from his exalted seat behind the vehicle, said +that there was not a nicer cab than his in London. + +"O, of course," said Mrs. Parkman. "They always say that. But _I_ can +find a nicer one, I'm sure, somewhere in the line." + +So saying she began to move on. Mr. Parkman gave the cabman a silver +sixpence--which is equal to a New York shilling--to compensate him +for having been called off from his station, and then followed his wife +across the street to the side where the cabs were standing. Mrs. Parkman +led the way all down the line, examining each hack as she passed it; but +she did not find any one that looked as well as the first. + +[Illustration: THE HANSOM CAB.] + +"After all," said she, "we might as well go back and take the first +one." So she turned and began to retrace her steps--the two gentlemen +accompanying her. But when they got back they found that the one which +Mr. Parkman had first selected was gone. It had been taken by another +customer. + +Mr. George was now entirely out of patience; but he controlled himself +sufficiently to suppress all outward manifestation of it, only saying +that he believed he would not wait any longer. + +"I will go down to the river," said he, "and take a boat, and when you +get a carriage you can go by land. I will wait for you at the entrance +to the tunnel." + +So he went away; and as soon as he turned the corner of the street he +snapped his fingers and nodded his head with the air of a man who has +just made a very lucky escape. + +"I thank my stars," said he to himself, "that I have not got such a lady +as that to take care of. Handsome as she is, I would not have her for a +travelling companion on any account whatever." + +It was from having witnessed several such exhibitions of character as +this that Mr. George had expressed himself so strongly to Rollo on the +subject of joining Mr. Parkman and his wife in making the tour of +Holland. + +But notwithstanding Mr. George's determination that he would not travel +in company with such a lady, it seemed to be decreed that he should do +so, for he left London about a week after this to go to Holland with +Rollo alone; and though he postponed setting out for several days, so as +to allow Mr. and Mrs. Parkman time to get well under way before them, he +happened to fall in with them several times in the course of the +journey. The first time that he met with them was in crossing the +Straits of Dover. + +There are several ways by which a person may go to Holland from London. +The cheapest is to take a steamer, by which means you go down the +Thames, and thence pass directly across the German Ocean to the coast of +Holland. But that makes quite a little voyage by sea, during which +almost all persons are subject to a very disagreeable kind of sickness, +on account of the small size of the steamers, and the short tossing +motion of the sea that almost always prevails in the waters that lie +around Great Britain. + +So Mr. George and Rollo, who neither of them liked to be seasick, +determined to go another way. They concluded to go down by railway to +Dover, and then to go to Calais across the strait, where the passage is +the shortest. Mr. and Mrs. Parkman had set off several days before them, +and Mr. George supposed that by this time they were far on their way +towards Holland. But they had been delayed by Mrs. Parkman's desire to +go to Brighton, which is a great watering place on the coast, not far +from Dover. There Mr. and Mrs. Parkman had spent several days, and it so +happened that in going from Brighton to Dover they met, at the junction, +the train that was bringing Mr. George and Rollo down from London; and +thus, though both parties were unconscious of the fact, they were +travelling along towards Dover, after leaving the junction, in the same +train, and when they stepped out of the carriages, upon the Dover +platform, there they were all together. + +Mr. Parkman and Mr. George were very glad to see each other; and while +they were shaking hands with each other, and making mutual explanations, +Mrs. Parkman went to the door of the station to see what sort of a place +Dover was. + +She saw some long piers extending out into the water, and a great many +ships and steamers lying near them. The town lay along the shore, +surrounding an inner harbor enclosed by the walls of the piers. Behind +the town were high cliffs, and an elevated plain above, on which a great +number of tents were pitched. It was the encampment of an army. A little +way along the shore a vast promontory was seen, crowned by an ancient +and venerable looking castle, and terminated by a range of lofty and +perpendicular cliffs of chalk towards the sea. + +"What a romantic place!" said Mrs. Parkman to herself. "It is just such +a place as I like. I'll make William stay here to-day." + +Just then she heard her husband's voice calling to her. + +"Louise!" + +She turned and saw her husband beckoning to her. He was standing with +Mr. George and Rollo near the luggage van, as they call it in England, +while the railway porters were taking out the luggage. + +Mrs. Parkman walked towards the place. + +"They say, Louise," said Mr. Parkman, "that it is time for us to go on +board the boat. She is going to sail immediately." + +"Ah! but, William," said Mrs. Parkman, "let us stay here a little while. +Dover is such a romantic looking place." + +"Very well," said Mr. Parkman, "we will stay if you like. Are you going +to stay, Mr. George?" + +"Yes," said Mr. George; "Rollo and I were going to stay till this +afternoon. There is a boat to cross at four o'clock." + +It was about eleven o'clock in the morning when this conversation +occurred. The porter stood by all the time with Mr. Parkman's two trunks +in his charge, waiting to have it decided when they were to go. + +"I should think, sir," said the porter, "that as you have a lady with +you, you would find this boat better. This is a tidal steamer, but the +four o'clock is the mail boat, and it will be pretty rough this +afternoon. There is a breeze coming up." + +"O, never mind the breeze," said Mrs. Parkman. "We are used to it, +porter. We've crossed the Atlantic." + +"Very well," said Mr. Parkman, "we will wait until four o'clock." + +"Then I'll put the luggage in the luggage room," said the porter, "and +take it to the boat at half past three. That's the way to the hotel," he +added, pointing the way. + +There are several very nice hotels in Dover, but the one which the +porter referred to is one of the finest and most beautifully situated +hotels in Europe. It is a large and handsome edifice, built in modern +style, and it stands close to the railroad station, on a point of land +overlooking the sea. The coffee room, which, unlike other English coffee +rooms, is used by both ladies and gentlemen, is a very spacious and +splendidly decorated apartment, with large windows on three sides of it, +overlooking the sea and the neighboring coasts. Each sash of these +windows is glazed with one single pane of plate glass, so that whether +they are shut or open there is nothing to intercept the view. The room +is furnished with a great number of tables, each large enough to +accommodate parties of four or six, and all, except two or three in +different parts of the room that are reserved for reading and writing, +are covered with neat white table cloths, and other preparations more or +less advanced for breakfasts or dinners that may have been ordered, +while at almost all times of the day, a greater or less number of them +are occupied by parties of tourists, their bags and baskets lying on the +neighboring chairs. + +It was into this room, so occupied, that our travellers were ushered as +they walked from the station into the hotel. + +Mrs. Parkman walked forward, and took her seat near a window. The +gentlemen attended her. + +"What a magnificent view!" said she. + +The view was indeed magnificent. Across the water was to be seen the +coast of France, lying like a low cloud close to the horizon. Ships, and +steamers, and fish boats, and every other sort of craft were seen plying +to and fro over the water,--some going out, others coming in. Through +one of the windows in the end of the room, Mrs. Parkman could see the +castle crowning its bold and lofty promontory, and the perpendicular +cliffs of chalk, with the sea beating against the base of them below. +Through the opposite window, which of course was at the other end of the +room, the view extended down the coast for a great distance, showing +point after point, and headland after headland, in dim perspective--with +a long line of surf rolling incessantly upon the beach, which seemed, in +that direction, interminable. + +After looking for some time at the view from the windows, Mrs. Parkman +turned to observe the company in the room, and to watch the several +parties of new comers as they successively entered. She wished to see if +there were any young brides among them. While she was thus engaged, her +husband selected a table that was vacant, and ordered breakfast. Mr. +George and Rollo did the same at another table near. + +While Mr. George and Rollo were at the table drinking their coffee, Mr. +George asked Rollo what he supposed the porter meant by saying that the +eleven o'clock boat was a tidal boat. + +"_I_ know," said Rollo. "I read it in the guide book. The tidal steamers +go at high tide, or nearly high tide, and if you go in them you embark +from the pier on one side, and you land at the pier on the other. But +the mail steamers go at a regular hour every day, and then when it +happens to be low tide, they cannot get to the pier, and the passengers +have to land in small boats. That is what the porter meant when he said +that it would not be pleasant for a lady to go in the mail steamer. It +is very unpleasant for ladies to be landed in small boats when the +weather is rough." + +"I don't believe that Mrs. Parkman understood it," said Mr. George. + +"Nor I either," said Rollo. + +"I presume she thought," added Mr. George, "that when the porter spoke +about the rough sea, he only referred to the motion of the steamer in +going over." + +"Yes," said Rollo, "but what he really meant was, that it would be bad +for her to get down from the steamer into the small boat at the landing. +I am afraid that she will not like it, though I think that it will be +real good fun." + +"Very likely it will be fun for _you_," said Mr. George. + +"I would a great deal rather go across in a mail steamer at low tide +than in any other way," said Rollo. + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +THE MAIL STEAMER. + + +Rollo's explanation in respect to the mail steamer was correct. As has +before been stated in some one or other of the volumes of this series, +the northern coast of France is low, and the shore is shelving for +almost the whole extent of it, and there are scarcely any good harbors. +Immense sandy beaches extend along the coast, sloping so gradually +outward, that when the tide goes down the sands are left bare for miles +and miles towards the sea. The only way by which harbors can be made on +such a shore is to find some place where a creek or small river flows +into the sea, and then walling in the channel at the mouth of the creek, +so as to prevent it being choked up by sand. In this way a passage is +secured, by which, when the tide is high, pretty good sized vessels can +get in; but, after all that they can do in such a case, they cannot make +a harbor which can be entered at low tide. When the tide is out, nothing +is left between the two piers, which form the borders of the channel, +but muddy flats, with a small, sluggish stream, scarcely deep enough to +float a jolly boat, slowly meandering in the midst of them towards the +sea. + +The harbor of California is such a harbor as this. Accordingly, in case +a steamer arrives there when the tide is down, there is no other way but +for her to anchor in the offing until it rises again; and the +passengers, if they wish to go ashore, must clamber down the side of the +vessel into a small boat, and be pulled ashore by the oarsmen. In smooth +weather this is very easily done. But in rough weather, when both +steamer and boat are pitching and tossing violently up and down upon the +waves, it is _not_ very easy or agreeable, especially for timid ladies. + +After finishing their breakfast, Mr. George and Rollo went out, and they +rambled about the town until the time drew near for the sailing of the +boat. Then they went to the station for the luggage, and having engaged +a porter to take it to the boat, they followed him down to the pier till +they came to the place where the boat was lying. After seeing the trunk +put on board they went on board themselves. A short time afterwards Mr. +and Mrs. Parkman came. + +The steamer, like all the others which ply between the coasts of France +and England, was quite small, and the passengers were very few. There +were only four or five ladies, and not far from the same number of +gentlemen. As the passage was only expected to occupy about two hours, +the passengers did not go below, but arranged themselves on seats upon +the deck--some along the sides of the deck by the bulwarks, and some +near the centre, around a sort of house built over the passage way which +led down into the cabin. + +Soon after Mr. and Mrs. Parkman came on board, Mr. Parkman said to his +wife,-- + +"Now, Louise, my dear, you will be less likely to be sick if you get +some good place where you can take a reclining posture, and so remain +pretty still until we get over." + +"O, I shall not be sick," said she. "I am not at all afraid." + +So she began walking about the deck with an unconcerned and careless +air, as if she had been an old sailor. + +Pretty soon Mr. George saw two other ladies coming, with their husbands, +over the plank. The countenances of these ladies were very pleasing, and +there was a quiet gentleness in their air and manner which impressed Mr. +George very strongly in their favor. + +As soon as they reached the deck, and while their husbands were +attending to the disposal of the luggage, they began to look for seats. + +"We will get into the most comfortable position we can," said one of +them, "and keep still till we get nearly across." + +"Yes," said the other, "that will be the safest." + +So they chose good seats near the companion way, and sat down there, and +their husbands brought them carpet bags to put their feet upon. + +In about fifteen minutes after this the steamer put off from the pier, +and commenced her voyage. She very soon began to rise and fall over the +waves, with a short, uneasy motion, which was very disagreeable. The +passengers, however, all remained still in the places which they had +severally chosen,--some reading, others lying quiet with their eyes +closed, as if they were trying to go to sleep. + +Mr. Parkman himself tried to do this, but his wife would not leave him +in peace. She came to him continually to inquire about this or that, or +to ask him to look at some vessel that was coming in sight, or at some +view on the shore. All this time the wind, and the consequent motion of +the steamer, increased. Scudding clouds were seen flitting across the +sky, from which there descended now and then misty showers of rain. +These clouds gradually became more frequent and more dense, until at +length the whole eastern sky was involved in one dense mass of +threatening vapor. + +It began to grow dark, too. The specified time for sailing was four +o'clock; but there was a delay for the mails, and it was full half past +four before the steamer had left the pier. And now, before she began to +draw near the French coast, it was nearly half past six. At length the +coast began slowly to appear. Its outline was dimly discerned among the +misty clouds. + +Long before this time, however, Mrs. Parkman had become quite sick. She +first began to feel dizzy, and then she turned pale, and finally she +came and sat down by her husband, and leaned her head upon his shoulder. + +She had been sitting in this posture for nearly half an hour, when at +length she seemed to feel better, and she raised her head again. + +"Are we not nearly there?" said she. + +"Yes," said her husband. "The lighthouse is right ahead, and the ends of +the piers. In ten minutes more we shall be going in between them, and +then all the trouble will be over." + +Rollo and Mr. George were at this time near the bows. They had gone +there to look forward, in order to get as early a glimpse as possible +of the boats that they knew were to be expected to come out from the +pier as soon as the steamer should draw nigh. + +"Here they come!" said Rollo, at length. + +"Yes," said Mr. George. "I see them." + +It was so nearly dark that the boats could not be seen distinctly. +Indeed there was not much to be discerned but a black moving mass, +slowly coming out from under the walls of the pier. + +The steamer had now nearly reached the ground where she was to anchor, +and so the seamen on the forecastle took in the foresail, which had been +spread during the voyage, and the helmsman put down the helm. The head +of the steamer then slowly came round till it pointed in a direction +parallel to the shore. This carried the boats and the pier somewhat out +of view from the place where Mr. George and Rollo had been standing. + +"Now we can see them better aft," said Rollo. + +"Yes," said Mr. George, "and they will board us aft too; so we had +better be there ready." + +Accordingly Mr. George and Rollo went aft again, and approached the +gangway on the side where they supposed the boats would come. + +In going there they passed round first on the other side of the entrance +to the cabin, where the two ladies were sitting that have already been +described. As they went by one of the gentlemen came to them and said,-- + +"Keep up your courage a few minutes longer. We are very near the pier. +In ten minutes we shall be in smooth water, and all will be over." + +The ladies seemed much relieved and rejoiced to hear this, and then the +gentleman went with Mr. George and Rollo towards the gangway, in order +that they might make further observations. He was joined there a moment +afterwards by his companion. Now, these gentlemen, as it happened, knew +nothing about the plan of landing in boats. They had made no particular +inquiry at Dover in respect to the steamer that they had come in, but +took it for granted that she would go into the harbor as usual, and land +the passengers at the pier. Their attention had just been attracted to +the singular movement of the steamer, when Rollo and Mr. George came up. + +"_What!_" said one of them, speaking with a tone of surprise, and +looking about eagerly over the water. "We are coming to, Mr. Waldo. What +can that mean?" + +Just then the little fleet of boats, six or seven in number, began to +come into view from where the gentlemen stood. They were dimly seen at a +distance, and looked like long, black animals, slowly advancing over the +dark surface of the water, and struggling fearfully with the waves. + +"What boats can those be?" said Mr. Waldo, beginning to look a little +alarmed. + +He was alarmed not for himself, but for his wife, who was very frail and +delicate in health, and ill fitted to bear any unusual exposure. + +"I am sure I cannot imagine," replied the other. + +"It looks marvellously as if they were coming out for us," said Mr. +Waldo. + +"Can it be possible, Mr. Albert, that we are to land in boats such a +night as this?" continued he. + +"It looks like it," replied the other. "Yes, they are really coming +here." + +The boats were now seen evidently advancing towards the steamer. They +came on in a line, struggling fearfully with the waves. + +"They look like spectres of boats," said Mr. George to Rollo. + +Mr. Albert now went round to the other side of the companion way, to the +place where the two ladies were sitting. + +"Ladies," said he, "I am very sorry to say that we shall be obliged to +land in boats." + +"In boats!" said the ladies, surprised. + +"Yes," said Mr. Albert, "the tide is out, and I suppose we cannot go +into port. The steamer has come to, and the boats are coming +alongside." + +The ladies looked out over the dark and stormy water with an emotion of +fear, but they did not say a word. + +"There is no help for it," continued the gentleman; "and you have +nothing to do but to resign yourselves passively to whatever comes. If +we had known that this steamer would not go into port, we would not have +come in her; but now that we are here we must go through." + +"Very well," said the ladies. "Let us know when the boat for us is +ready." + +Mr. Albert then returned to the gangway, where Rollo and Mr. George were +standing. The foremost boat had come alongside, and the seamen were +throwing the mail bags into it. When the mails were all safely stowed in +the boat, some of the passengers that stood near by were called upon to +follow. Mr. George and Rollo, being near, were among those thus called +upon. + +"Wait a moment," said Mr. George to Rollo, in a low tone. "Let a few of +the others go first, that we may see how they manage it." + +It proved to be rather difficult to manage it; for both the steamer and +the boat were rocking and tossing violently on the waves, and as their +respective motions did not at all correspond, they thumped against each +other continually, as the boat rose and fell up and down the side of +the steamer in a fearful manner. It was dark too, and the wind was +blowing fresh, which added to the frightfulness of the scene. + +A crowd of people stood about the gangway. Some of these people were +passengers waiting to go down, and others, officers of the ship, to help +them. The seamen in the boat below were all on the alert too, some +employed in keeping the boat off from the side of the ship, in order to +prevent her being stove or swamped, while others stood on each side of +the place where the passengers were to descend, with uplifted arms, +ready to seize and hold them when they came down. + +There was a little flight of steps hanging down the side of the steamer, +with ropes on each side of it in lieu of a balustrade. The passenger who +was to embark was directed to turn round and begin to go down these +steps backward, and then, when the sea lifted the boat so that the +seamen on board could seize hold of him, they all cried out +vociferously, "LET GO!" and at the same moment a strong sailor grasped +him around the waist, brought him down into the bottom of the boat in a +very safe, though extremely unceremonious manner. + +After several gentlemen and one lady had thus been put into the boat, +amid a great deal of calling and shouting, and many exclamations of +surprise and terror, the officer at the gangway turned to Mr. George, +saying,-- + +"Come, sir!" + +There was no time to stop to talk; so Mr. George stepped forward, saying +to Rollo as he went, "Come right on directly after me;" and in a moment +more he was seized by the man, and whirled down into the boat, he +scarcely knew how. Immediately after he was in, there came some +unusually heavy seas, and the steamer and the boat thumped together so +violently that all the efforts of the seamen seemed to be required to +keep them apart. + +"Push off!" said the officer. + +"Here, stop! I want to go first," exclaimed Rollo. + +"No more in this boat," said the officer. "Push off!" + +"Never mind," said Rollo, calling out to Mr. George, "I'll come by and +by." + +"All right," said Mr. George. + +By this time the boat had got clear of the steamer, and she now began to +move slowly onward, rising and falling on the waves, and struggling +violently to make her way. + +"I am glad they did not let me go," said Rollo. "I would rather stay +and see the rest go first." + +Another boat was now seen approaching, and Rollo stepped back a little +to make way for the people that were to go in it, when he heard Mrs. +Parkman's voice, in tones of great anxiety and terror, saying to her +husband,-- + +"I cannot go ashore in a boat in that way, William. I cannot possibly, +and I will not!" + +"Why, Louise," said her husband, "what else can we do?" + +"I'll wait till the steamer goes into port, if I have to wait till +midnight," replied Mrs. Parkman positively. "It is a shame! Such +disgraceful management! Could not they find out how the tide would be +here before they left Dover?" + +"Yes," replied Mr. Parkman. "Of course they knew perfectly well how the +tide would be." + +"Then why did not they leave at such an hour as to make it right for +landing here?" + +"There _are_ boats every day," said Mr. Parkman, "which leave at the +right time for that, and most passengers take them. But the mails must +come across at regular hours, whether the tide serves or not, and boats +must come to bring the mails, and they, of course, allow passengers to +come in these boats too, if they choose. We surely cannot complain of +that." + +"Then they ought to have told us how it was," said Mrs. Parkman. "I +think it is a shameful deception, to bring us over in this way, and not +let us know any thing about it." + +"But they did tell us," said Mr. Parkman. "Do not you recollect that the +porter at the station told us that this was a mail boat, and that it +would not be pleasant for a lady." + +"But I did not know," persisted Mrs. Parkman, "that he meant that we +should have to land in this way. He did not tell us any thing about +that." + +"He told us that it was a mail boat, and he meant by that to tell us +that we could not land at the pier. It is true, we did not understand +him fully, but that is because we come from a great distance, and do not +understand the customs of the country. That is our misfortune. It was +not the porter's fault." + +"I don't think so at all," said Mrs. Parkman. "And you always take part +against me in such things, and I think it is really unkind." + +All this conversation went on in an under tone; but though there was a +great deal of noise and confusion on every side, Rollo could hear it +all. While he was listening to it,--or rather while he was _hearing_ it, +for he took no pains to listen,--the gentleman who had been talking +with Mr. Waldo, and whom the latter had called Mr. Albert, went round to +the two ladies who were waiting to be called, and said,-- + +"Now, ladies, the boat is ready. Follow me. Say nothing, but do just as +you are told, and all will go well." + +[Illustration: LANDING FROM THE MAIL BOAT.] + +So the ladies came one after the other in among the crowd that gathered +around the gangway, and there, before they could bring their faculties +at all to comprehend any thing distinctly amid the bewildering +confusion of the scene, they found their bags and shawls taken away from +them, and they themselves turned round and gently forced to back down +the steps of the ladder over the boiling surges, when, in a moment more, +amid loud shouts of "LET GO!" they were seized by the sailors in the +boat, and down they went, they knew not how, for a distance of many feet +into the stern of the boat, where they suddenly found themselves seated, +while the boat itself was rocking violently to and fro, and thumping +against the side of the steamer in a frightful manner. + +The officer, who had charge of the debarkation on the deck of the +steamer above, immediately called to Mrs. Parkman. + +"Come, madam!" said he. + +"No," said she, "I can't possibly go ashore in that way." + +"Then you will have to stay on board all night." + +"Well, I'd rather stay on board all night," said she. + +"And you will have to go back to Dover, madam," continued the officer, +speaking in a very stern and hurried manner, "for the steamer is not +going into the pier at all." + +Then immediately turning to Rollo, he said, "Come, young man!" + +So Rollo marched up to the gangway, and was in a moment whirled down +into the boat, as the others had been. Immediately afterwards the boat +pushed off, and the sailors began to row, leaving Mr. and Mrs. Parkman +on board the steamer. How they were to get to the shore Rollo did not +know. + +Rollo began to look about over the water. It had become almost entirely +dark, and though the moon, which was full, had, as it happened, broken +out through the clouds a short time before, when they were getting into +the boats, she had now become obscured again, and every thing seemed +enveloped in deep gloom. Still Rollo could see at a short distance +before him the other boats slowly making their way over the wild and +stormy water. He could also see the ends of the piers dimly defined in +the misty air, and the tall lighthouse beyond, with a bright light +burning in the lantern at the top of it. + +"We shall only be a few minutes, now," said one of the gentlemen. "It is +not far to the piers." + +The boat went on, pitching and tossing over the waves, with her head +towards the piers. The pilot who steered the boat called out continually +to the oarsmen, and the oarsmen shouted back to him; but nobody could +understand such sailor language as they used. At length, on looking +forward again, Rollo saw that the boats before him, instead of going on +in a line towards the land, were slowly scattering in all directions, +and that their own boat, instead of heading towards the pier as at +first, gradually turned round, and seemed to be going along in a +direction parallel to the coast, as the steamer had done. + +"What!" exclaimed Mr. Albert, on observing this, "we are not going +towards the piers. Where can we be going?" + +The other gentleman shook his head, and said he did not know. + +The ladies remained quietly in their places. There was evidently nothing +for them to do, and so they concluded, very sensibly, to do nothing. + +The boat slowly turned her head round, all the time pitching and tossing +violently on the billows, until finally she was directed almost towards +the steamer again. + +"What can be the matter?" asked one of the gentlemen, addressing the +other. "We are not heading towards the shore." Then turning towards the +pilot, he said to him,-- + +"What is the matter? Why cannot we go in?" + +The pilot, who spoke English very imperfectly, answered, "It is a bar. +The water is not enough." + +"There is a bar," said the gentleman, "outside the entrance to the +harbor, and the water is not deep enough even for these boats to go +over. We can see it." + +Rollo and the others looked in the direction where the gentleman +pointed, and he could see a long, white line formed by the breakers on +the bar, extending each way as far as the eye could reach along the +shore. Beyond were to be dimly seen the heads of the piers, and a low +line of the coast on either hand, with the lighthouse beyond, towering +high into the air, and a bright and steady light beaming from the summit +of it. + +"I hope the tide is not going _down_," said the gentleman, "for in that +case we may have to wait here half the night." + +"Is the tide going down, or coming up?" he said, turning again to the +pilot. + +"It will come up. The tide will come up," answered the pilot. + +"What does he say?" asked one of the ladies in a whisper. + +"He says that the tide will come up," replied the gentleman. "Whether he +means it is coming up now, or that it will come up some time or other, I +do not know. We have nothing to do but to remain quiet, and await the +result." + +The clouds had been for some time growing darker and darker, and now it +began to rain. So the gentlemen took out their umbrellas and spread +them, and the party huddled together in the bottom of the boat, and +sheltered themselves there as well as they could from the wind and rain. +They invited Rollo to come under the umbrellas too, but he said that the +rain would not hurt his cap, and he preferred to sit where he could look +out and see what they would do. + +"Very well," said one of the gentlemen. "Tell us, from time to time, how +we get along." + +So Rollo watched the manoeuvring of the boat, and reported, from time +to time, the progress that she was making. It was not very easy for him +to make himself heard, on account of the noise of the winds and waves, +and the continual vociferations of the pilot and the seamen. + +"We are headed now," said he, "right away from the shore. We are pointed +towards the steamer. I can just see her, working up and down in the +offing. + +"Now the men are backing water," he continued. "We are going stern +foremost towards the bar. I believe they are going to try to back her +over." + +The boat now rapidly approached the line of breakers, moving stern +foremost. The roar of the surf sounded nearer and nearer. At length the +ladies and gentlemen under the umbrellas looked out, and they saw +themselves in the midst of rolling billows of foam, on which the boat +rose and fell like a bubble. Presently they could feel her thump upon +the bottom. The next wave lifted her up and carried her towards the +shore, and then subsiding, brought her down again with another thump +upon the sand. The pilot shouted out new orders to the seamen. They +immediately began to pull forward with their oars. He had found that the +water was yet too shallow on the bar, and that it would be impossible to +pass over. So the sailors were pulling the boat out to sea again. + +The ladies were, of course, somewhat alarmed while the boat was thumping +on the bar, and the boiling surges were roaring so frightfully around +them; but they said nothing. They knew that they had nothing to do, and +so they remained quiet. + +"We are clear of the bar, now," said Rollo, continuing his report. "I +can see the breakers in a long line before us, but we are clear of them. +Now the sailors are getting out the anchor. I can see a number of the +other boats that are at anchor already." + +The anchor, or rather the grapnel which served as an anchor, was now +thrown overboard, and the boat came to, head to the wind. There she +lay, pitching and tossing very uneasily on the sea. The other boats were +seen lying in similar situations at different distances. One was very +near; so near, that instead of anchoring herself, the seamen threw a +rope from her on board the boat where Rollo was, and so held on by her, +instead of anchoring herself. In this situation the whole fleet of boats +remained for nearly an hour. Rollo kept a good lookout all the time, +watching for the first indications of any attempt to move. + +At length he heard a fresh command given by the pilot, in language that +he could not understand; but the sailors at the bows immediately began +to take in the anchor. + +"They are raising the anchor," said he. "Now we are going to try it +again. There is one boat gone already. She is just coming to the bar. +She is now just in the breakers. I can see the white foam all around +her. She is going in. Now she is over. I can see the whole line of foam +this side of her. Our boat will be there very soon." + +In a very few minutes more the boat entered the surf, and soon began to +thump as before at every rise and fall of the seas. But as each +successive wave came up, she was lifted and carried farther over the +bar, and at last came to deep water on the other side. + +"It is all over now," said one of the gentlemen, "and, besides, it has +stopped raining." So he rose from his place and shut the umbrella. The +ladies looked around, and to their great joy saw that they were just +entering between the ends of the piers. The passage way was not very +wide, and the piers rose like high walls on each side of it; but the +water was calm and smooth within, and the boats glided along one after +another in a row, in a very calm and peaceful manner. At length they +reached the landing stairs, which were built curiously within the pier, +among the piles and timbers, and there they all safely disembarked. + +On reaching the top of the stairs, Rollo found Mr. George waiting for +him. + +"Uncle George," said Rollo, "here I am." + +"Have you had a good time?" asked Mr. George. + +"Yes," said Rollo, "excellent." + +"And what became of Mr. and Mrs. Parkman?" + +"I don't know," said Rollo; "I left them on board the steamer. She +declared that she would not come in a small boat." + +"You and I," said Mr. George, "will go off to-morrow morning by the +first train, and go straight to Holland as fast as we can, so as to get +out of their way." + +"Well," said Rollo. "Though I don't care much about it either way." + +Mr. George, however, carried his plan into effect. The next day they +went to Antwerp; and on the day following they crossed the Belgian +frontier, and entered Holland. + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +ENTERING HOLLAND. + + +Rollo and Mr. George went into Holland by the railway. It was a long +time before Rollo learned that in travelling from one European country +to another, he was not to expect any visible line of demarcation to show +the frontier. Boys at school, in studying the shape and conformation of +different countries on the map, and seeing them marked by distinct +colored boundaries, are very apt to imagine that they will see +something, when travelling from one country to another, to show them by +visible signs when they pass the frontier. + +But there is nothing of the kind. The green fields, the groves, the +farmhouse, the succession of villages continues unchanged as you travel, +so that, as you whirl along in the railway carriage, there is nothing to +warn you of the change, except the custom house stations, where the +passports of travellers are called for, and the baggage is examined. + +"Uncle George," said Rollo, after looking out of the window at a place +where the train stopped, twenty or thirty miles from Antwerp, "I think +we are coming to the frontier." + +"Why so?" asked Mr. George. + +"Because the Belgian custom house is at this station, and the next will +be the Dutch custom house." + +Rollo knew that this was the Belgian custom house by seeing the word +DOUANE over one of the doors of the station, and under it the words +VISITE DES BAGAGES, which means _examination of baggage_. There were +besides a great many soldiers standing about, which was another +indication. + +"How do you know that it is the Belgian custom house?" asked Mr. George. + +"Because all these soldiers are in the Belgian uniform," said he. "I +know the Belgian uniform. I don't know the Dutch uniform, but I suppose +I shall see it at the next station." + +Rollo was perfectly right in his calculations. The last station on the +line of the railway in Belgium was the frontier station for Belgium, and +here travellers, coming from Holland, were called upon to show their +passports, and to have their baggage examined. In the same manner the +first station beyond, which was the first one in Holland, was the +frontier station for that country, and there passengers going from +Belgium into Holland were stopped and examined in the same way. + +After going on a few miles from the Belgium station, the whistle blew +and the train began to stop. + +"Here we are!" said Rollo. + +"Yes," said Mr. George; "and now comes the time of trial for the musical +box." + +Rollo had bought a musical box at Antwerp, and he had some fears lest he +might be obliged to pay a duty upon it, in going into Holland. Mr. +George had told him that he thought there was some danger, but Rollo +concluded that he would take the risk. + +"They have no business to make me pay duty upon it," said he to Mr. +George. + +"Why not?" asked Mr. George. + +"Because it is not for merchandise," said Rollo. "It is not for sale. I +have bought it for my own use alone." + +"That has nothing to do with it," said Mr. George. + +"Yes it has, a great deal to do with it," replied Rollo. + +There might have been quite a spirited discussion between Mr. George and +Rollo, on this old and knotty question, over which tourists in Europe +are continually stumbling, had not the train stopped. The moment that +the motion ceased, the doors of all the carriages were opened, and a man +passed along the line calling out in French,-- + +"Gentlemen and ladies will all descend here, for the examination of +passports and baggage." + +Mr. George and Rollo had no baggage, except a valise which they carried +with them in the carriage. Mr. George took this valise up and stepped +down upon the platform. + +"Now, Rollo," said Mr. George, "if they find your musical box and charge +duty upon it, pay it like a man." + +"Yes," said Rollo, "I will." + +"And don't get up a quarrel with the custom house officer on the +subject," continued Mr. George, "for he has the whole military force of +the kingdom of Holland at his command, and what he says is to be done, +in this territory, must be done." + +So saying, Mr. George, valise in hand, followed the crowd of passengers +through a door, over which was inscribed the Dutch word for baggage. In +the centre of this room there was a sort of low counter, enclosing a +sort of oblong square. Within the square were a number of custom house +officers, ready to examine the baggage which the porters and the +passengers were bringing in, and laying upon the counter, all around the +four sides of the square. + +Mr. George brought up his valise, and placed it on the counter. A custom +house officer, who had just examined and marked some other parcels, +turned to Mr. George's just as he had unlocked and opened it. + +"Have you any thing to declare?" said the officer. + +"Nothing, sir," said Mr. George. + +The officer immediately shut the valise, and marked it on the back with +a piece of chalk, and Mr. George locked it and took it away. + +"Are you through?" asked Rollo. + +"Yes," said Mr. George. + +Mr. George then took the valise and followed a crowd of passengers, who +were going through a door at the end of the room opposite to where they +came in. There was an officer in uniform on each side of this door. +These officers examined every bag, valise, or parcel that the passengers +had in their hands, to see if they had been marked by the examiners, and +as fast as they found that they were marked, they let them pass. + +Following this company, Mr. George and Rollo came soon to another small +room, where a man was sitting behind a desk, examining the passports of +the passengers and stamping them. Mr. George waited a moment until it +came his turn, and then handed his passport too. The officer looked at +it, and then stamped an impression from a sort of seal on one corner of +it. He also wrote Mr. George's and Rollo's name in a big book, copying +them for this purpose from the passport. + +He then handed the passport back again, and Mr. George and Rollo went +out, passing by a soldier who guarded the door. They found themselves +now on the railway platform. + +"Now," said Rollo, "I suppose that we may go and take our seats again." + +"Yes," said Mr. George. "We are fairly entered within the dominions of +his majesty the king of Holland." + +"And no duty to pay on my music box," said Rollo. + +Rollo took a seat by a window where he could look out as the train went +on, and see, as he said, how Holland looked. The country was one immense +and boundless plain, and there were no fences or other close enclosures +of any kind. And yet the face of it was so endlessly varied with rows of +trees, groves, farm houses, gardens, wind mills, roads, and other +elements of rural scenery, that Rollo found it extremely beautiful. The +fields were very green where grass was growing, and the foliage of the +trees, and of the little ornamental hedges that were seen here and there +adorning the grounds of the farm houses, was very rich and full. As +Rollo looked out at the window, a continued succession of the most +bright and beautiful pictures passed rapidly before his eyes, like those +of a gayly painted panorama, and they all called forth from him +continually repeated exclamations of delight. Mr. George sat at his +window enjoying the scene perhaps quite as much as Rollo did, though he +was much less ardent in expressing his admiration. + +"See these roads, uncle George," said Rollo; "they run along on the tops +of the embankment like railroads. Are those dikes?" + +"No," said Mr. George. "The dikes are built along the margin of the sea, +and along the banks of rivers and canals, to take the water out. These +are embankments for the roads, to raise them up and keep them dry." + +There were rows of trees on the sides of these raised roads, which +formed beautiful avenues to shelter the carriage way from the sun. These +avenues could sometimes be seen stretching for miles across the country. + +"Now, pretty soon," said Rollo, "we shall come to the water, and then we +shall take a steamboat." + +"Then we do not go all the way by the train," said Mr. George. + +"No," said Rollo. "The railroad stops at a place called Moerdyk, and +there we take a steamer and go along some of the rivers. + +"But I can't find out by the map exactly how we are to go," he +continued, "because there are so many rivers." + +Rollo had found, by the map, that the country all about Rotterdam was +intersected by a complete network of creeks and rivers. This system was +connected on the land side with the waters of the Rhine, by the immense +multitude of branches into which that river divides itself towards its +mouth, and on the other side by innumerable creeks and inlets coming in +from the sea. This network of channels is so extensive, and the water in +the various branches of it is so deep, that ships and steamers can go at +will all about the country. It would be as difficult to make a railroad +over such a tract of mingled land and water as this, as it is easy to +navigate a steamer through it; and, accordingly, the owners of the line +had made arrangements for stopping the trains at Moerdyk, and then +transferring the passengers to a steamer. + +"I have great curiosity," said Rollo, "to see whether, when we come to +the water, we shall go _up_ to it, instead of _down_ to it." + +"Do you think that we shall go up to it?" asked Mr. George. + +"I don't know," replied Rollo. "We do in some parts of Holland. In some +places, according to what the guide book says, the land is twenty or +thirty feet below the level of the water, and so when you come to the +shore you go _up an embankment_, and there you find the water on the +other side, nearly at the top of it." + +When at length the train stopped at Moerdyk, the conductor called out +from the platform that all the passengers would descend from the +carriages to embark on board the steamer. Rollo was too much interested +in making the change, and in hurrying Mr. George along so as to get a +good seat in the steamer, to make any observation on the comparative +level of the land and water. There was quite a little crowd of +passengers to go on board; and as they walked along the pier towards the +place where the steamer was lying, all loaded with as many bags, cloaks, +umbrellas, or parcels of some sort, as they could carry, Rollo and Mr. +George pressed on before them, Rollo leading the way. The steamer was a +long and narrow boat, painted black, in the English fashion. There was +no awning over the deck, and most of the passengers went below. + +"I don't see what they are all going below for," said Rollo. "I should +think that they would wish to stay on deck and see the scenery." + +So Rollo chose a seat by the side of a small porch which was built upon +the deck over the entrance to the cabin, and sat down immediately upon +it, making room for Mr. George by his side. There was a little table +before him, and he laid down his guide book and his great coat upon it. + +"Now," said he, "this is good. We have got an excellent seat, and we +will have a first rate time looking at Holland as we go along." + +Just then a young man, dressed in a suit of gray, and with a spy glass +hanging at his side, suspended by a strap from his shoulder, and with a +young and pretty, but rather disdainful looking lady on his arm, came +by. + +"Now, Emily," said he, "which would you prefer, to sit here upon the +deck or go below?" + +"O George," said she, "let us go below. There's nothing to be seen on +the deck. The country is every where flat and uninteresting." + +"We might see the shores as we go along," suggested her husband. + +"O, there's nothing to be seen along the shores," said she; "nothing but +bulrushes and willows. We had better go below." + +So Emily led George below. + +"Rollo," said Mr. George, "if you would like to take a bet, I will bet +you the prettiest Dutch toy that you can find in Amsterdam, that that is +another Mrs. Parkman." + +"I think it very likely she is," said Rollo. "But, uncle George, what do +you think they have got down below? I've a great mind to go down and +see." + +"Very well," said Mr. George. + +"And will you keep my place while I am gone?" asked Rollo. + +"Yes," said Mr. George, "or you can put your cap in it to keep it." + +So Rollo put his cap in his seat, and went down below. In a few minutes +he returned, saying that there was a pretty little cabin down there, +with small tables set out along the sides of it, and different parties +of people getting ready for breakfast. + +"It is rather late for breakfast," said Mr. George. "It is after twelve +o'clock." + +"Then perhaps they call it luncheon," said Rollo. "But I'd rather stay +on deck. We might have something to eat here. Don't you think we could +have it on this table?" + +"Yes," replied Mr. George, "that is what the table is put here for." + +"Well!" said Rollo, his eye brightening up at the idea. + +"We can have it here, or we can wait and have it at the hotel in +Rotterdam," said Mr. George. "You may decide. I'll do just as you say." + +Rollo finally concluded to wait till they arrived at Rotterdam, and then +to have a good dinner all by themselves at some table by a window in the +hotel, and in the mean time to devote himself, while on board the +steamer, to observing the shores of the river, or arm of the sea, +whichever it might be, on which they were sailing. + +The steamer had before this time set sail from the pier, and after +backing out of a little sort of creek or branch where it had been +moored, it entered a broad channel of deep water, and began rapidly to +move along. The day was pleasant, and though the air was cool, Rollo and +Mr. George were so well sheltered by the little porch by the side of +which they were sitting, that they were very comfortable in all +respects. + +Before long the channel of water in which the steamer was sailing became +more narrow, and the steamer passed nearer a bank, which Rollo soon +perceived was formed by a dike. + +"See, see! uncle George," said he. "There are the roofs of the houses +over on the other side of the dike. We can just see the tops of them. +The ground that the houses stand upon must be a great deal below the +water." + +"Yes," said Mr. George, "and see, there are the tops of the tall trees." + +The dike was very regular in its form, and it was ornamented with two +rows of trees along the top of it. There were seats here and there under +the trees, and some of these seats had people sitting upon them, looking +at the passing boats and steamers. The water was full of vessels of all +kinds, coming and going, or lying at anchor. These vessels were all of +very peculiar forms, being built in the Dutch style, and not painted, +but only varnished, so as to show beautifully the natural color of the +wood of which they were made. They had what Rollo called _fins_ on each +side, which were made to be taken up or let down into the water, first +on one side and then on the other, as the vessel was on different tacks +in beating against the wind. + +Opposite to every place where there was a house over beyond the dike, +there was a line of steps coming down the face of the dike on the hither +side, towards the water, with a little pier, and a boat fastened to it, +below. These little flights of steps, with the piers and the boats, and +the seats under the trees on the top of the dike, and the roofs of the +houses, and the tops of the trees beyond, all looked extremely pretty, +and presented a succession of very peculiar and very charming scenes to +Mr. George and Rollo as the steamer glided rapidly along the shore. + +In some places the dike seemed to widen, so as to make room for houses +upon the top of it. There were snug little taverns, where the captains +and crews of the vessels that were sailing by could stop and refresh +themselves, when wind or tide bound in their vessels, and now and then a +shop or store of some kind, or a row of pretty, though very +queer-looking, cottages. At one place there was a ferry landing. The +ferry house, together with the various buildings appertaining to it, was +on the top of the dike, and a large pier, with a snug and pretty basin +by the side of it, below. There was a flight of stairs leading up from +the pier to the ferry house, and also a winding road for carriages. At +the time that the steamer went by this place, the ferry boat was just +coming in with a carriage on board of it. + +There were a great many wind mills here and there along the dike. Some +were for pumping up water, some for sawing logs, and some for grinding +grain. These wind mills were very large and exceedingly picturesque in +their forms, and in the manner in which they were grouped with the other +buildings connected with them. Rollo wished very much that he could stop +and go on shore and visit some of these wind mills, so as to see how +they looked inside. + +At length the vessels and ships seemed to increase in numbers, and Mr. +George said that he thought that they must be approaching a town. Rollo +looked upon the map and found that there was a large town named Dort, +laid down on the shores of the river or branch on which they were +sailing. + +"It is on the other side," said he. "Let us go and see." + +So they both rose from their seats and went round to the other side of +the boat, and there, there suddenly burst upon their view such a maze of +masts, spires, roofs, and wind mills, all mingled together in +promiscuous confusion, as was wonderful to behold. In the centre of the +whole rose one enormous square tower, which seemed to belong to a +cathedral. + +This was Dort, or Dordrecht, as it is often called. + +As the steamer glided rapidly along the shores, and Mr. George and Rollo +attempted to look into the town, they saw not streets, but canals. +Indeed, the whole place seemed just level with the surface of the water, +and far in the interior of it the masts of ships and the roofs of the +houses were mingled together in nearly equal proportion. + +The steamer threaded its way among the fleets of boats and shipping +that lay off the town, and at length came to a stop at a pier. The +passengers destined for this place began to disembark. Mr. George and +Rollo stood together on the deck, looking at the buildings which lined +the quay, and wondering at the quaint and queer forms which every thing +that they saw assumed. + +"I should really like to go ashore here," said Mr. George, "and see what +sort of a place it is." + +"Let us do it, uncle George!" said Rollo, eagerly. "Let us do it!" + +"Only we have paid to Rotterdam," said Mr. George. + +"Never mind," said Rollo. "It will not make much difference." + +But before Mr. George could make up his mind to go on shore, the +exchange of passengers was effected, and the plank was pulled in, the +ropes were cast off, and the steamer once more began to move swiftly +along over the water. + +"It is too late," said Rollo. + +"Yes," said Mr. George, "and on the whole it is better for us to go on." + +In about an hour more the steamer began to draw near to Rotterdam. The +approach to the town was indicated by the multitude of boats and vessels +that were passing to and fro, and by the numbers of steamers and wind +mills that lined respectively the margins of the water and of the land. +The wind mills were prodigious in size. They towered high into the air +like so many lighthouses; the tops of the sails, as Mr. George +estimated, reached, as the vanes revolved, up to not less than one +hundred and fifty or two hundred feet into the air. It was necessary to +build them high, in order that the sails might not be becalmed by the +houses. + +[Illustration: DORT.] + +At length the steamer stopped at a pier. Two policemen stood at the +plank, as the passengers landed, and demanded their passports. Mr. +George gave up his passport, as he was directed, and then he and Rollo +got into a carriage and were driven to the hotel. + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +WALKS ABOUT ROTTERDAM. + + +The hotel where Mr. George and Rollo were set down was a very +magnificent edifice standing on the quay opposite to a line of steamers. +On entering it, both our travellers were struck with the spaciousness of +the hall and of the staircase, and with the sumptuous appearance in +general of the whole interior. They called for a chamber. The +attendants, as they soon found, all understood English, so that there +was no occasion at present to resort to the language of signs, as Mr. +George had supposed might be necessary. In answer to Mr. George's +request to be shown to a room, the servant showed him and Rollo a very +large and lofty apartment, with immense windows in front looking down +upon the pier. On the back side of the room were two single beds. + +"This will do very well for us," said Mr. George. + +"Will you dine at the table d'hote?"[3] asked the waiter. + +[Footnote 3: Pronounced _tahble dote_.] + +The table d'hote is the public table. + +"At what time is the table d'hote?" asked Mr. George. + +"At half past four," said the waiter. + +"No," said Mr. George, "we shall want to be out at that time. We will +take something now as soon as we can have it. Can you give us a +beefsteak?" + +"Yes, sir," said the waiter. + +"Very well. Give us a beefsteak and some coffee, and some bread and +butter." + +"Yes, sir," said the waiter. "Will you have two beefsteaks, or one +beefsteak?" + +"Two," said Rollo, in an under tone to Mr. George. + +"Yes," said Mr. George, "and coffee for two, also." + +So the waiter left the travellers in their room, and went down stairs. +In about ten minutes Mr. George and Rollo went down too. At the foot of +the grand staircase they turned into the dining room, where they saw +several tables set, and at one of them, near a window, were the +preparations for their meal. + +The window looked out upon the quay, and Rollo could see the men at work +getting out hogsheads and bales of goods from a steamer that was moored +there. Besides looking across to the quay, Rollo could also look up and +down the street without putting his head out of the window. The way in +which he was enabled to do this, was by means of looking glasses placed +outside. These looking glasses were attached to an iron frame, and they +were placed in an inclined position, so as to reflect the whole length +of the street in through the window. Thus a person sitting at his ease +within the room, could look up and down the street, as well as across +it, at his pleasure. + +Rollo afterwards observed such looking glasses attached to the windows +of almost all the houses in town. + +The dinner was soon brought in, and Mr. George and Rollo ate it with +excellent appetites. Just as they had finished their meal, a +neatly-dressed young man came to the table and asked them if they wished +for some one to show them about the town. + +"Because," said he, "I am a _valet de place_, and I can take you at once +to all the places of interest, and save you a great deal of time." + +"How much do you ask to do it?" asked Mr. George. + +"Five francs a day," said the man. + +"That's right," said Mr. George. "That's the usual price. But we shall +not want you, at least for this afternoon. We may want you to-morrow. We +shall stay in town a day or two." + +The young man said that he should be very happy to serve them if they +should require his services, and then bowed and went away. + +After having finished their meal, Mr. George and Rollo set out to take a +ramble about the town by themselves. + +"We will go in search of adventures," said Rollo. + +"Yes," said Mr. George, "and if we lose our way, we shall be likely to +_have_ some adventures, for we cannot speak Dutch to inquire for it." + +"Never mind," said Rollo, "I'm not afraid. We will be careful which way +we go." + +So they went out and took quite a long ramble through the town. The +first aspect of the streets struck them with astonishment. The space was +now more than half filled with docks and basins, and with canals in +which ships and boats of every kind were moving to and fro. In fact +almost every street consisted one half of canal, and one half of road +way, so that in going through it you could have your choice of going in +a boat or in a carriage. The water part of the streets was crowded +densely with vessels, some of them of the largest size, for the water +was so deep in the canals that the largest ships could go all about the +town. + +It was curious to observe the process of loading and unloading these +vessels, opposite to the houses where the merchants who owned them +lived. These houses were very large and handsome. The upper stories were +used for the rooms of the merchant and his family, and the lower ones +were for the storage of the goods. Thus a merchant could sit at his +parlor window with his family about him, could look down upon his ship +in the middle of the street before his house, and see the workmen +unlading it and stowing the goods safely on his own premises, in the +rooms below. + +In some of the streets the canal was in the centre, and there was a road +way along by the houses on each side. In others there was a road way +only on one side, and the walls of the houses and stores rose up +directly from the water's edge on the other. It was curious, in this +case, to see the men in the upper stories of these stores, hoisting +goods up from the vessels below by means of cranes and tackles +projecting from the windows. + +There was one arrangement in the streets which Rollo at first +condemned, as decidedly objectionable in his mind, and that was, that +the sidewalks were smooth and level with the pavement of the street, +differing only from the street by being paved with bricks, while the +road way was paved with stone. + +"I think that that is a very foolish plan," said Rollo. + +"I should not have expected so crude a remark as that from so old and +experienced a traveller as you," said Mr. George. + +"Why, uncle George," said Rollo. "It is plainly a great deal better to +have the sidewalk raised a little, for that keeps the wheels of the +carts and carriages from coming upon them. Besides, there ought to be a +gutter." + +"People that have never been away from home before," said Mr. George, +"are very apt, when they first land in any strange country, and observe +any strange or unusual way of doing things, or of making things, to +condemn it at once, and say how much better the thing is in their +country. But I thought that you had travelled enough to know better than +that." + +"How so?" asked Rollo. + +"Why, you see that after people have travelled more, they get their +ideas somewhat enlarged, and they learn that one way of doing things may +be best in one country, and another in another, on account of some +difference in the circumstances or the wants of the two countries. So, +when they see any thing done in a new or unusual manner, they don't +condemn it, or laugh at it, until they have had time to find out whether +there may not be some good reason for it." + +"But I don't see," said Rollo, "what possible good reason there can be +for having the sidewalks made so that every cart that comes along can +run over you." + +"And because you don't in a moment see every reason, does that make it +certain that there cannot be any?" said Mr. George. + +"Why, no," replied Rollo. + +"Then if you had travelled to much purpose," said Mr. George, "you would +suspend your judgment until you had inquired." + +It was not long before Rollo saw what the reason was for making the +sidewalks in this way. Indeed, with a little reflection, he would +probably have thought of it himself. + +The object was to make it easy to wheel and convey the goods from the +ships across to the warehouses. For, as the ships and boats go into +almost all the streets in the town, goods have to be wheeled across +every where, from the margin of the quay to the warehouses of the +merchants, and a range of curbstones and gutter would make an obstacle +that would be very much in the way. + +Besides, contrary to Rollo's hastily formed opinion, there ought _not_ +to be any gutters in such a town as this, as far as the streets are +perfectly level, from end to end; if gutters were made the water would +not run in them. The only way to have the rain water carried off, is to +form a gentle slope from the houses straight across the quay to the +margin of the canal, and this requires that the connection between the +sidewalk and the road way should be continuous and even. So that on +every account the plan adopted in Rotterdam is the best for that town. + +I advise all the readers of this book, whether old or young, if they +have not yet had an opportunity to learn wisdom by actual experience in +travelling, to remember the lesson that Rollo learned on this occasion; +and whenever, in their future travels, they find any thing that appears +unusual or strange, not to condemn it too soon, simply because it is +different from what they have been accustomed to at home, but to wait +till they have learned whether there may not be some good cause for the +difference. + +Rollo wished to stop continually, as he and his uncle walked along, to +watch the operations of loading and unloading that were going on +between the ships and the warehouses. At one place was a boat loaded +with sails, which had apparently come from a sail maker's. The sails +were rolled up in long rolls, and some people in a loft of a warehouse +near were hoisting them up with tackles, and pulling them in at the +windows. + +At another place two porters were engaged wheeling something in +wheelbarrows across from a slip to the warehouse, stopping by the way at +a little platform to have every wheelbarrow load weighed. One of the +porters wheeled the loads from the ship to the platform, and the other, +after they were weighed, wheeled them to the warehouse. At the platform +sat a man with a little desk before him and a big book upon it, in which +he entered the weight of each load as it came. As soon as the load was +weighed the warehouse porter would take it from the platform, wheel it +across the street to the warehouse, empty it there, and then bring back +the empty wheelbarrow and set it down by the side of the platform. In +the mean time the ship porter would have wheeled another load up to the +platform from the ship, and by the time that the warehouse porter had +come back, it would be weighed and all ready for him. The ship porter, +when he brought the loaded wheelbarrow, would take back to the ship the +empty one. The whole operation went on with so much regularity and +system, and it worked so well in keeping all the men employed all the +time, without either having to wait at all for the other, that it was a +pleasure to witness it. + +At another place Mr. George himself, as well as Rollo, was much +interested in seeing the process of tobacco inspection. There were a +number of hogsheads of tobacco, with a party of porters, coopers, +inspectors, and clerks examining them. It was curious to see how rapidly +they would go through the process. The coopers would set a hogshead up +upon its end, knock out the head, loosen all the staves at one end, +whisk it over upon the platform of the scales, and then lift the +hogshead itself entirely off, and set it down on one side, leaving the +tobacco alone, in a great round pile, on the platform. Then when it was +weighed they would tumble it over upon its side, and separate it into +its layers, and the inspectors would take out specimens from all the +different portions of it. Then they would pile up the layers again, and +put the hogshead on over them, as you would put an extinguisher on a +candle; and, finally, after turning it over once more, they would put it +on the head, and bind it all up again tight and secure, with hoop poles +which they nailed in and around it. The porters would then roll the +hogshead off, in order to put it on a cart and take it away. The whole +operation was performed with a degree of system, regularity, and +promptness, that was quite surprising. The whole work of opening the +hogshead, examining it thoroughly, weighing it, selecting specimens, and +putting it up again, was accomplished in less time than it has taken me +here to describe it. + +There were a great many other operations of this sort that arrested the +attention of Mr. George and Rollo, as they walked along the streets. +Much of the merchandise which they saw thus landing from the ships, or +going on board of them, was of great value, and the ships in which it +came were of immense size, such as are engaged in the East India trade. +Mr. George said that they were the kind that he had often read about in +history, under the name of Dutch East Indiamen. + +Rollo was very much amused at the signs over the doors of the shops, in +those streets where there were shops, and in the efforts that he made to +interpret them. There was one which read SCHEEP'S VICTUALIJ, which Mr. +George said must mean victualling for ships. He was helped, however, +somewhat in making this translation by observing what was exhibited in +the windows of the shop, and at the door. There was another in which +Rollo did not require any help to enable him to translate it. It was +TABAK, KOFFY, UND THEE. Another at first perplexed him. It was this: +HUIS UND SCHEEP'S SMEDERY. But by seeing that the place was a sort of +blacksmith's shop, Rollo concluded that it must mean house and ship +smithery, that is, that it was a place for blacksmith's work for houses +and ships. + +Over one of the doors was OOSTERHOUTS UND BREDA'S BIER HUIS. Mr. George +said that Breda was a place not far from Rotterdam, and that the last +part of the sign must mean house for selling Breda beer. Rollo then +concluded that the first word must mean something connected with +oysters. There was another, KOFFER EN ZADEL MAKERIJ. At first Rollo +could not make any thing of this; but on looking at the window he saw a +painting of a horse's head, with a handsome bridle upon it, and a saddle +on one side. So he concluded it must mean a trunk and saddle makery. He +was the more convinced of the correctness of this from the fact that the +word for trunk or box, in French, is _coffre_. + +Rollo amused himself a long time in interpreting in this way the signs +that he saw in the streets, and he succeeded so well in it that he told +Mr. George that he believed he could learn the Dutch language very +easily, if he were going to stay for any considerable time in Holland. + +Another thing that amused Rollo very much, was to see the wooden shoes +that were worn by the common people in the streets. These shoes appeared +to Rollo to be very large and clumsy; but even the little children wore +them, and the noise that they made, clattering about the pavements with +them, was very amusing. + +In a great many places where the streets intersected each other, there +were bridges leading across the canals. These bridges were of a very +curious construction. They were all draw bridges, and as boats and +vessels were continually passing and repassing along the canals, it +became frequently necessary to raise them, in order to let the vessels +go through. The machinery for raising these bridges and letting them +down again, was very curious; and Rollo and Mr. George were both glad, +when, in coming to the bridge, they found it was up, as it gave them an +opportunity to watch the manoeuvre of passing the vessel through. + +Every boat and vessel that went through had a toll to pay, and the +manner of collecting this toll was not the least singular part of the +whole procedure. While the bridge was up, and when the boat had passed +nearly through, the helmsman, or helmswoman, as the case might be,--for +one half the boats and vessels seemed to be steered by women,--would +get the money ready; and then the tollman, who stood on the abutment of +the bridge, would swing out to the boat one of the wooden shoes above +described, which was suspended by a long line from the end of a pole, +like a fishing pole. The tollman would swing out this shoe over the boat +that was passing through, as a boy would swing his hook and sinker out +over the water if he were going to catch fish. The helmsman in the boat +would take hold of it when it came within his reach, and put the money +into the toe of it. The tollman would then draw it in, and, taking out +the money, would carry it to his toll house, which was a small building, +not much bigger than a sentry box that stood on the pier close by. + +In one case Rollo came to a bridge, which, instead of being made to be +raised entirely, had only a very narrow part in the centre, just wide +enough for the masts and rigging of the ship to go through, that could +be moved. When this part was lifted up to let a vessel pass, it made +only a very narrow opening, such as a boy might jump across very easily. + +In some places where the passing and repassing of ships was very great, +there was a ferry instead of a bridge. In these cases there was a +flat-bottomed boat to pass to and from one side to the other, with a +pretty little landing of stone steps at each end. Rollo was much +entertained by these ferries. He said it was crossing a street by water. +And it was exactly that, and no more. The place where he first crossed +one of these ferries was precisely like a broad street of water, with +ships and boats going to and fro upon it, instead of carriages, and a +very wide brick sidewalk on each side. The ferry was at the crossing, at +the place where another street intersected it. + +As the houses on each side of these streets were very large and +handsome, and as there were rows of beautiful trees on the margin of the +water, and as every thing about the water, and the ships, and the quays, +and the sidewalks, was kept very neat and clean, the whole view, as it +presented itself to Rollo and Mr. George while they were crossing in the +boat, was exceedingly attractive and exciting. + +Mr. George and Rollo remained in Rotterdam several days before they were +satisfied with the curious and wonderful spectacles which it presented +to view. In one of their walks they made the entire circuit of the town, +and Mr. George agreed with Rollo in the opinion that this was one of the +most interesting walks they had ever taken. + +[Illustration: THE FERRY BOAT.] + +The way led along a smooth and beautiful road, which was neatly paved, +and kept very nice and clean. On the right hand side there extended +along the whole length of it a wide canal, with boats all the time going +to and fro. This canal looked brimming full. The water, in fact, came up +within a few inches of the level of the road. The line of the road was +formed by a smooth and straight margin of stone,--like the margin of a +fountain,--with little platforms extending out here and there, where +neatly-dressed girls and women were washing. + +On the other side of the road, down ten feet or more below the level of +it, was a range of houses, with yards, gardens, and fields about them. +The way to these houses was by paths leading down from the dike on which +the road was built, and across little bridges built over a small canal +which extended between them and the dike. This small canal was for the +draining of the land on which the houses stood. The water in this canal +had a gentle flow towards the end of the street, where there was a wind +mill to pump it up into the great canal on the other side of the street. + +As Rollo and Mr. George walked along this road, it was very curious to +them to see the water on one side so much higher than the land on the +other. At the intervals between the houses they obtained glimpses of the +interior of the country, which consisted of level fields lying far below +where they were standing, and intersected in every direction by small +canals, which served the purpose at the same time of fences, roads, and +drains. There seemed to be no other divisions than these between the +lands of the different proprietors, and no other roads for bringing home +the hay or grain, or other produce which might be raised in the fields. + +In pursuing their walk around the town, our travellers were continually +coming to objects so curious in their construction and use, as to arrest +their attention and cause them to stop and examine them. At one place +they saw a little ferry boat, which looked precisely like a little +floating room. It was square, and had a roof over it like a house, with +seats for the passengers below. This boat plied to and fro across the +canal, by means of a rope fastened to each shore, and running over +pulleys in the boat. + +"We might take this ferry boat," said Mr. George, "and go across the +canal into the town again. See, it lands opposite to one of the +streets." + +"Yes," said Rollo, "but I would rather keep on, and go all around the +town outside." + +"We might go over in the ferry boat just for the fun of it," said Mr. +George, "and then come back again." + +"Well," said Rollo. "How much do you suppose the toll is?" + +"I don't know," said Mr. George. "It can't be much, it is such a small +boat, and goes such a little way; and then, besides, I know it must be +cheap, or else there could not so many of these girls and women go back +and forth." + +For while they had been looking at the boat, as they gradually +approached the spot, they had seen it pass to and fro with many +passengers, who, though they were very neatly dressed, were evidently by +no means wealthy or fashionable people. + +So Mr. George and Rollo went to the margin of the road where the ferry +boat had its little landing place, and when it came up they stepped on +board. The ferryman could only talk Dutch, and so Mr. George could not +ask him what was to pay. The only thing to be done was to give him a +piece of silver, and let him give back such change as he pleased. Mr. +George gave him a piece of money about as big as half a franc, and he +got back so much change in return that he said he felt richer than he +did before. + +At another place they came to a bridge that led across the canal. This +bridge turned on a pivot placed out near the middle of the canal, so +that it could be moved out of the way when there was a boat to go by. A +man was turning it when Mr. George and Rollo came along. They stopped to +witness the operation. They were quite amused, not merely with the +manoeuvring of the bridge, but with the form and appearance of the +boat that was going through. It seemed to be half boat and half house. +There was a room built in it, which rose somewhat above the deck, and +showed several little windows with pretty curtains to them. There was a +girl sitting at one of these windows, knitting, and two or three +children were playing about the deck at the time that the boat was going +through the bridge. + +Farther on the party came to an immense wind mill, which was employed in +pumping up water. This wind mill, like most of the others, was built of +brick. It rose to a vast height into the air, and there its immense +sails were slowly revolving. The wind mill was forty or fifty feet in +diameter at the base, and midway between the base and the summit was a +platform built out, that extended all around it. The sails of the mill, +as they revolved, only extended down to this platform, and the platform +itself was above the roofs of the four-story houses that stood near. + +At the foot of this wind mill Mr. George and Rollo could see the water +running in under it, through a sluice way which led from a low canal, +and on the other side they could see it pouring out in a great torrent, +into a higher one. + + * * * * * + +Besides making this circuit around the town, Mr. George and Rollo one +evening took a walk in the environs, on a road which led along on the +top of a dike. The dike was very broad, and the descent from it to the +low land on each side was very gradual. On the slopes on each side, and +along the margin on the top, were rows of immense trees, that looked as +if they had been growing for centuries. The branches of these trees met +overhead, so as to exclude the sun entirely. They made the road a +deeply-shaded avenue, and gave to the whole scene a very sombre and +solemn expression. On each side of the road, down upon the low land +which formed the general level of the country, were a succession of +country houses, the summer residences of the rich merchants of +Rotterdam. These houses were beautifully built; and they were surrounded +with grounds ornamented in the highest degree. There were winding +walks, and serpentine canals, and beds of flowers, and pretty bridges, +and summer houses, and groves of trees, and every thing else that can +add to the beauty of a summer retreat. + +All these scenes Mr. George and Rollo looked down upon as they sauntered +slowly along the smooth sidewalk of the dike, under the majestic trees +which shaded it. The place where they were walking on the dike was on a +level with the second story windows of the houses. + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +DOING THE HAGUE. + + +"And now what is the next place that we shall come to?" said Rollo to +Mr. George one morning after they had been some days in Rotterdam. + +"The Hague," replied Mr. George. + +"Ah, yes," said Rollo, "that is the capital. We shall stop there a good +while I suppose, because it is the capital." + +"No," said Mr. George, "I shall go through it just as quick as I can for +that very reason. I have a great mind not to stop there at all." + +"Why, uncle George!" exclaimed Rollo, surprised, "what do you mean by +that?" + +"Why, the Hague," rejoined Mr. George, "is the place where the king +lives, and the princes, and the foreign ambassadors, and all the +fashionable people; and there will be nothing to see there, I expect, +but palaces, and picture galleries, and handsome streets, and such +things, all of which we can see more of and better in Paris or London." + +"Still we want to see what sort of a place the Hague is," said Rollo. + +"Yes," said Mr. George, "and I expect to do that in a very short time, +and then I shall go on to Haarlem, where they have had such a time with +their pumping." + +Mr. George and Rollo packed up their valise, paid their bill at the +hotel, and set off for the station. + +"Let's go to the station by water," said Rollo. + +"Well," said Mr. George, "if you will engage a boat." + +"I know a place not far from here where there is a boat station," said +Rollo. + +So Rollo led the way until they came to a bridge, and there, by the side +of the bridge, were some stairs leading down to the water. There were +several boats lying at the foot of the stairs, and boatmen near, who all +called out in Dutch, "Do you want a boat?" At least that was what Rollo +supposed they said, though, of course, he could not understand their +language. Rollo walked down the steps, and got into one of the boats, +and Mr. George followed him. + +"I can't speak Dutch," said Rollo to the boatman, "but that is the way +we want to go." So saying, Rollo pointed in the direction which led +towards the station. The man did not understand a word that Rollo had +said; but still, by hearing it, he learned the fact that Rollo did not +speak the language of the country, and by his signs he knew that he must +go the way that he pointed. So he began to row the boat along. + +"We cannot go quite to the station by the boat," said Rollo, "but we can +go pretty near it, and we can walk the rest of the way." + +"How will you find out the way," asked Mr. George, "through all these +canals?" + +"I can tell by the map," said Rollo. + +So Rollo sat down on a seat at the stern of the boat, and taking out his +map, which was printed on a pocket handkerchief, he spread it on his +knee, and began to study out the canals. + +"There," said he, "we are going along this canal, now; and there, a +little way ahead from here, is a bridge that we shall go under. Then we +shall make a turn," continued Rollo, still studying his map. "We shall +have to go a very round-about way; but that is no matter." + +So they went on, Rollo at each turn pointing to the boatman which way he +was to go. Sometimes the boat was stopped for a time by a jam in the +boats and vessels before it, as a hack might be stopped in Broadway in +New York. Sometimes it went under bridges, and sometimes through dark +archways, where Rollo could hear carriages rumbling over his head in +the streets above. + +At length the boat reached the point which Rollo thought was nearest to +the station; and the man, at a signal which Rollo gave him, stopped at +some steps. Rollo paid the fare by holding out a handful of money in his +hand, and letting the man take what was right, watching him, however, to +see that he did not take too much. + +Then Mr. George and Rollo both went ashore, and walked the rest of the +way to the station. + +In the European railroad stations there are different waiting rooms for +the different classes of travellers. Mr. George sometimes took second +class carriages, and sometimes first. For short distances he generally +went first class, and as it was only a few miles to the Hague from +Rotterdam, he now went into the first class waiting room. There was a +counter for refreshment in one corner of the room, and some sofas along +the sides. Mr. George sat down upon one of the sofas, putting his valise +on the floor at the end of it. Rollo said that he would go out and take +a little walk around the station, for it was yet half an hour before the +train was to go. + +In a few minutes after Rollo had gone, there came to the door, among +other carriages, one from which Mr. George, to his great surprise, saw +Mr. and Mrs. Parkman get out. Mr. George's first thought was to go out +by another door, and make his escape. But he checked this impulse, +saying to himself, + +"It would be very ungenerous in me to abandon my old friend in his +misfortune; so I will stay." + +Mr. Parkman seemed very much delighted, as well as surprised, to see Mr. +George again; and Mrs. Parkman gave him quite a cordial greeting, +although she half suspected that Mr. George did not like her very well. + +Mr. George asked her how she liked Holland, so far as she had seen it. + +"Not much," said she. "The towns are not pretty. The streets are all +full of canals, and there is nothing to be seen but boats and ships. And +what ugly wooden shoes they wear. Did you ever see any thing so ugly in +all your life?" + +"They look pretty big and clumsy," said Mr. George, "I must admit; but +it amuses me to see them." + +"At the Hague I expect to find something worth seeing," continued Mrs. +Parkman. "That's where the king and all the great people live, and all +the foreign ambassadors. If William had only got letters of introduction +to some of them! He might have got them just as well as not. Our +minister at London would have given him some if he had asked for them. +But he said he did not like to ask for them." + +"Strange!" said Mr. George. + +"Yes," rejoined Mrs. Parkman, "I think it is not only strange, but +foolish. I want to go to some of the parties at the Hague, but we can't +stop. William says we can only give one day to the Hague." + +"O, you can do it up quite well in one day," said Mr. George. + +"If you would only go with us and show us how to do it," said Mrs. +Parkman. + +"Yes," said Mr. Parkman. "Do, George. Go with us. Join us for one day. +I'll put the whole party entirely under your command, and you shall have +every thing your own way." + +Mr. George did not know what to reply to this proposition. At last he +said that he would go and find Rollo, and consult him on the subject, +and if Rollo approved of it they would consent to the arrangement. + +Mrs. Parkman laughed at hearing this. "Why," said she, "is it possible +that you are under that boy's direction?" + +"Not exactly that," said Mr. George. "But then he is my travelling +companion, and it is not right for one person, in such a case, to make +any great change in the plan without at least first hearing what the +other has to say about it." + +"That's very true," replied Mrs. Parkman. "Do you hear that, William? +You must remember that when you are going to change the plans without +asking my consent." + +Mrs. Parkman said this in a good-natured way, as if she meant it in +joke. It was one of those cases where people say what they wish to have +considered as meant in a joke, but to be taken in earnest. + +Mr. George went out to look for Rollo. He found him lying on the grass +by the side of a small canal which flowed through the grounds, and +reaching down to the water to gather some curious little plants that +were growing upon it. Mr. George informed him that Mr. and Mrs. Parkman +were at the station, and that they had proposed that he himself and +Rollo should join their party in seeing the Hague. + +"And I suppose you don't want to do it," said Rollo. + +"Why, yes," said Mr. George, "I've taken a notion to accept the proposal +if you like it. We'll then do the Hague in style, and I shall get back +into Mrs. Parkman's good graces. Then we will bid them good by, and +after that you and I will travel on in our own way." + +"Well," said Rollo, "_I_ agree to it." + +Mr. George accordingly went back into the station, and told Mr. and Mrs. +Parkman that he and Rollo would accept their invitation, and join with +them in seeing what there was in the Hague. + +"And then, after that," said Mr. George, "we shall come back to Delft, +while you go on to Amsterdam." + +"I wish you would go on with us," said Mr. Parkman. + +"We can't do that very well," said Mr. George. "We want to try a Dutch +canal once, and a good place to try it is in going from the Hague to +Delft. It is only about four or five miles. We are going there by the +canal boat, and then coming back on foot." + +Mr. George had taken care in planning the course which he and Rollo were +to pursue after leaving the Hague, to contrive an expedition which he +was very sure Mrs. Parkman would not wish to join in. + +"O, Mr. George!" she exclaimed, "what pleasure can there be in going on +a canal?" + +"Why, the canal boats are so funny!" said Rollo. "And then we see such +curious little places all along the banks of them, and we meet so many +boats, carrying all sorts of things." + +"I don't think it would be very agreeable for a lady," said Mr. George; +"but Rollo and I thought we should like to try it." + +Just at this moment the door leading to the platform opened, and a man +dressed in a sort of uniform, denoting that he was an officer of the +railroad, called out in Dutch that the train was coming. The ladies and +gentlemen that were assembled in the waiting room immediately took up +their bags and bundles, and went out upon the platform. As they went +out, Mr. George, in passing the man in uniform, slipped a piece of money +into his hand, and said to him in an under tone, first in French and +then in English,-- + +"A good seat by a window for this lady." + +The officer received the money, made a bow of assent, and immediately +seemed to take the whole party under his charge. When the train arrived, +and had stopped before the place, there was a great crowd among the new +passengers to get in and procure seats. The officer beckoned to Mr. +George to follow him, but Mrs. Parkman seemed disposed to go another +way. She was looking eagerly about here and there among the carriages, +as if the responsibility of finding seats for the party devolved upon +her. + +"What shall we do?" said she. "The cars are all full." + +"Leave it to me," said Mr. George to her in an under tone. "Leave it +entirely to me. You'll see presently." + +The officer, finding the carriages generally full, said to Mr. George, +in French, "Wait a moment, sir." So Mr. George said to the rest of the +party-- + +"We will all stand quietly here. He'll come to us presently." + +"Yes," said Mrs. Parkman, "when all the seats are taken. We shan't get +seats at all, William." + +"You'll see," said Mr. George. + +In a moment more the officer came to the party, and bowing respectfully +to Mrs. Parkman, he said, + +"Now, madam." + +He took out a key from his pocket, and unlocked the door of a carriage +which had not before been opened, and standing aside, he bowed to let +Mrs. Parkman pass. + +Mrs. Parkman was delighted. There was nobody in the carriage, and so she +had her choice of the seats. She chose one next the window on the +farther side. Her husband took the seat opposite to her. + +"Ah!" said she, with a tone of great satisfaction, "how nice this is! +And what a gentlemanly conductor! I never had the conductor treat me so +politely in my life." + +Mrs. Parkman was put in excellent humor by this incident, and she said, +towards the end of the journey, that she should have had a delightful +ride if the country had not been so flat and uninteresting. To Mr. +George and Rollo, who sat at the other window, it appeared extremely +interesting, there was so much that was curious and novel to be seen. +The immense green fields, with herds of cattle and flocks of sheep +feeding every where, and separated from each other by straight and +narrow canals instead of fences; the boats passing to and fro, loaded +with produce; the little bridges built over these canals here and there, +for the foot paths, with the gates across them to keep the cattle from +going over; the long road ways raised upon dikes, and bordered by +quadruple rows of ancient and venerable trees, stretching to a boundless +distance across the plains; and now and then a wide canal, with large +boats or vessels passing to and fro,--these and a multitude of other +such sights, to be seen in no other country in the world, occupied their +attention all the time, and kept them constantly amused. + +At length the train arrived at the station for the Hague, and the whole +party descended from the carriage. + +"Now, William," said Mr. George, "give me the ticket for your trunk, +and you yourself take Mrs. Parkman into the waiting room and wait till I +come." + +"No," said Mr. Parkman, "I cannot let you take that trouble." + +"Certainly," said Mr. George. "You said that I should have the entire +command. Give me the ticket." + +So Mr. Parkman gave him the ticket, and Mr. George went out. Rollo +remained with Mr. and Mrs. Parkman. In a few minutes Mr. George +returned, and said that the carriage was ready. They all went to the +door, and there they found a carriage waiting, with Mr. and Mrs. +Parkman's trunk upon the top of it. A man was holding the door open for +the party to get in. As soon as they had all entered, Mr. George put a +few coppers into the hand of the man at the door, and said to him, + +"Hotel Belview."[4] + +[Footnote 4: In French, _Hotel Belle Vue_; but Mr. George gave it the +English pronunciation, because the pronunciation of words in Holland is +much more like the English than like the French.] + +"HOTEL BELVIEW!" shouted the man to the coachman. On hearing this +command the coachman drove on. + +The road that led into the town lay along the banks of a canal, and +after going about half a mile in this direction, the horses turned and +went over a bridge. They were now in the heart of the town, but the +party could not see much, for the night was coming on and the sky was +cloudy. It was cold, too, and Mrs. Parkman wished to have the windows +closed. The carriage went along a narrow street, crossing bridges +occasionally, until at length it came to a region of palaces, and parks, +and grounds beautifully ornamented. Finally it stopped before a large +and very handsome hotel. The hotel stood in a street which had large and +beautiful houses and gardens on one side, and an open park, with deer +feeding on the borders of a canal, on the other. + +Two or three very nicely dressed servants came out when the carriage +stopped, and opened the door of it in a very assiduous and deferential +manner. + +"Wait here in the carriage," said Mr. George, "till I come." + +So saying, he himself descended from the carriage, and went into the +house, followed by two of the waiters that had come to the door. + +In about two minutes he came out again. + +"Yes," said he to Mrs. Parkman, "I think you will like the rooms." + +So saying, he helped Mrs. Parkman out of the carriage, and gave her his +arm to conduct her into the house. At the same time he said to one of +the waiters,-- + +"See that every thing is taken out of the carriage, and pay the +coachman." + +"Very well, sir," said the waiter. + +Mr. George led Mrs. Parkman up a broad and handsome staircase. He was +preceded by one waiter and followed by two others. These waiters had +taken every thing from the hands of the party, especially from Mrs. +Parkman, so that they were loaded with bags, cloaks, and umbrellas, +while the travellers themselves had nothing to carry. + +At the head of the staircase the waiter, who was in advance, opened a +door which led to a large drawing room or parlor, which was very +handsomely decorated and furnished. The windows were large, and they +looked out upon a handsome garden, though it was now too dark to see it +very distinctly. + +As Mrs. Parkman turned round again, after trying to look out at the +window, she saw a second waiter coming into the room, bringing with him +two tall wax candles in silver candlesticks. The candles had just been +lighted. The waiter placed them on the table, and then retired. + +"And now," said Mr. George to the other waiter, "we want a good fire +made here, and then let us have dinner as soon as you can." + +[Illustration: THE DINNER.] + +"Very well, sir," replied the waiter; and so saying he bowed +respectfully and retired. + +A neatly-dressed young woman, in a very picturesque and pretty cap, had +come into the room with the party, and while Mr. George had been +ordering the fire and the dinner, she had shown Mrs. Parkman to her +bedroom, which was a beautiful and richly furnished room with two single +beds in it, opening out of the parlor. On the other side of the parlor +was another bedroom, also with two beds in it, for Mr. George and +Rollo.[5] + +[Footnote 5: Almost all the bedrooms in the hotels on the continent of +Europe are furnished thus with two single beds, instead of one double +one. It is the custom for every body to sleep alone.] + +Mr. and Mrs. Parkman remained in their room for a time, and when they +came out they found the table set for dinner, and a very pleasant fire +burning in the grate. + +"Mr. George," said she, "I wish we had you to make arrangements for us +all the time." + +"It would be a very pleasant duty," said Mr. George. "You are so easily +satisfied." + +Mrs. Parkman seemed much pleased with this compliment. She did not for a +moment doubt that she fully deserved it. + +About eight o'clock that evening, Mr. George asked Mrs. Parkman at what +time she would like to have breakfast the next morning. + +"At any time you please," said she; "that is, if it is not too early." + +"How would half past nine do?" asked Mr. George. + +"I think that will do very well," said Mrs. Parkman. + +"We will say ten, if you prefer," said Mr. George. + +"O, no," said she, "half past nine will do very well." + +So Mr. George rang the bell, and when the waiter came, he ordered a +sumptuous breakfast, consisting of beefsteaks, hot rolls, coffee, +omelet, and every thing else that he could think of that was good, and +directed the waiter to have it ready at half past nine. + +"I shall also want a carriage and a pair of horses to-morrow," continued +Mr. George, "and a commissioner." + +"Very well, sir," said the waiter; "and what time shall you wish for the +carriage?" + +"What time, Mrs. Parkman?" repeated Mr. George, turning to the lady. +"Shall you be ready by half past ten to go out and see the town?" + +"Yes," said Mrs. Parkman, "that will be a very good time." + +"Very well, sir," said the waiter; and he bowed and retired. + +The next morning, when the different members of the party came out into +the breakfast room, they found the table set for breakfast. At half past +nine all were ready except Mrs. Parkman. She sent word by her husband +that she would come out in a few minutes. + +"There is no hurry," said Mr. George. "It will be time enough to have +breakfast when she comes." + +In about fifteen minutes she came. Mr. George asked her very politely +how she had spent the night; and after she had sat a few minutes talking +by the fire, he said that they would have breakfast whenever she wished. + +"Yes," said she, "I am ready any time. Indeed, I was afraid that I +should be late, and keep you waiting. I am very glad that I am in +season." + +So Mr. George rang the bell; when the waiter came, he ordered breakfast +to be brought up. + +While the party were at breakfast, a very nicely-dressed waiter, with a +white napkin over his arm, stood behind Mrs. Parkman's chair, and +evinced a great deal of alertness and alacrity in offering her every +thing that she required. When the breakfast was nearly finished, Mr. +George turned to him and said,-- + +"Is the commissioner ready, John, who is to go with us to-day?" + +"Yes, sir," said the waiter. + +"I wish you to go down and send him up," said Mr. George. + +So the waiter went down stairs to find the commissioner, and while he +was gone Mr. George took out a pencil and paper from his pocket. + +"I am going to ask him," said Mr. George to Mrs. Parkman, "what there is +to be seen here, and to make a list of the places; and then we will go +and see them all, or you can make a selection, just as you please." + +"Very well," said Mrs. Parkman. "I should like that." + +Accordingly, when the commissioner came in, Mr. George asked him to +name, in succession, the various objects of interest usually visited by +travellers coming to the Hague; and as he named them, Mr. George +questioned him respecting them, so as to enable Mrs. Parkman to obtain a +somewhat definite idea of what they were. The commissioner enumerated a +variety of places to be seen, such as the public museum of painting, +several private museums, the old palace, the new palace, two or three +churches, the town hall, and various other sights which tourists, +arriving at the Hague, usually like to view. Mr. George made a list of +all these, and opposite to each he marked the time which the +commissioner said would be required to see it well. After completing +this list, he said,-- + +"And there is a great watering place on the sea shore, not far from +this, I believe." + +"Yes, sir," said the commissioner, "about three miles." + +"Is it a pleasant ride there?" asked Mr. George. + +"Yes, sir," replied the commissioner. "It is a _very_ pleasant ride. You +can go one way and return another. It is a very fashionable place. The +queen and the princesses go there every summer." + +"Very well; it takes about two hours and a half, I suppose, to go there +and return," said Mr. George. + +"Yes, sir," said the commissioner. + +"Very well," said Mr. George. "Have the carriage ready in---- Shall we +say half an hour, Mrs. Parkman? Shall you be ready in half an hour?" + +Mrs. Parkman said that she should be ready in half an hour, and so Mr. +George appointed that time, and then the commissioner went away. + +Mr. George added up all the periods of time that the commissioner had +said would be required for the several sights, and found that there +would be time for them to see the whole, and yet be ready for the +afternoon train for Amsterdam, where Mr. and Mrs. Parkman were going +next. So Mrs. Parkman concluded not to omit any from the list, but to go +and see the whole. + +In half an hour the carriage was at the door, and in ten or fifteen +minutes afterwards Mrs. Parkman was ready. Just before they went, Mr. +George rang the bell again, and called for the bill, requesting the +waiter to see that every thing was charged--carriage, servants, +commissioner, and all. When it came, Mr. Parkman took out his purse, +expecting to pay it himself, but Mr. George took out his purse too. + +"The amount," said Mr. George, looking at the footing of the bill, "is +forty-five guilders and some cents. Your share is, say twenty-two +guilders and a half." + +"No, indeed," said Mr. Parkman. "My share is the exact footing of the +bill. You have nothing to do with this payment." + +"Yes," said Mr. George. "I have just one half to pay for Rollo and me. +We are four in all, and Rollo and I are two." + +Mr. Parkman seemed extremely unwilling to allow Mr. George to pay any +thing at all; but Mr. George insisted upon it, and so the bill was paid +by a joint contribution. + +All this time the carriage was ready at the door, and the gentlemen, +attended by two or three waiters, conducted Mrs. Parkman down to the +door. The party then drove, in succession, to the various places which +the commissioner had enumerated. There were museums consisting of a +great many rooms filled with paintings, and palaces, where they were +shown up grand staircases, and through long corridors, and into suites +of elegant apartments, and churches, and beautiful parks and gardens, +and a bazaar filled with curiosities from China and Japan, and a great +many other similar places. Mr. George paid very particular attention to +Mrs. Parkman during the whole time, and made every effort to anticipate +and comply with her wishes in all respects. In one case, indeed, I think +he went too far in this compliance, and the result was to mortify her +not a little. It was in one of the museums of paintings. Mrs. Parkman, +like other ladies of a similar character to hers, always wanted to go +where she could not go, and to see what she could not see. If, when she +came into a town, she heard of any place to which, for any reason, it +was difficult to obtain admission, that was the very place of all others +that she wished most to see; and if, in any museum, or palace, or +library that she went into, there were two doors open and one shut, she +would neglect the open ones, and make directly to the one that was shut, +and ask to know what there was there. I do not know as there was any +thing particularly blameworthy in this. On the contrary, such a feeling +may be considered, in some respects, a very natural one in a lady. But, +nevertheless, when it manifests itself in a decided form, it makes the +lady a very uncomfortable and vexatious companion to the gentleman who +has her under his care. + +In one of the rooms where our party went in the museum of paintings, +there was a door near one corner that was shut. All the other +doors--those which communicated with the several apartments where the +pictures were hung--were open. As soon as Mrs. Parkman came in sight of +the closed door, she pointed to it and said,-- + +"I wonder what there is in that room. I suppose it is something very +choice. I wish we could get in." + +Mr. Parkman paid, at first, no attention to this request, but continued +to look at the pictures around him. + +"I wish you would ask some of the attendants," she continued, "whether +we cannot go into that room." + +"O, no," replied her husband. "If it was any thing that it was intended +we should see, the door would be open. The fact that the door is shut is +notice enough that, we are not to go in there." + +"I'm convinced there are some choice pictures in there," said Mrs. +Parkman; "something that they do not show to every body. Mr. George, I +wish you would see if you can't find out some way to get in." + +"Certainly," said Mr. George, "I will try." + +So Mr. George walked along towards one of the attendants, whom he saw in +another part of the room,--putting his hand in his pocket as he went, to +feel for a piece of money. He put the piece of money into the +attendant's hand, and then began to talk with him, asking various +indifferent questions about the building; and finally he asked him where +that closed door led to. + +"O, that is only a closet," said the attendant, "where we keep our +brooms and dusters." + +"I wish you would just let us look into it," said Mr. George. "Here's +half a guilder for you." + +The man looked a little surprised, but he took the half guilder, +saying,-- + +"Certainly, if it will afford you any satisfaction." + +Mr. George then went back to where he had left the rest of his party, +and said to Mrs. Parkman,-- + +"This man is going to admit us to that room. Follow Him. I will come in +a moment." + +So Mr. George stopped to look at a large painting on the wall, while +Mrs. Parkman, with high anticipations of the pleasure she was to enjoy +in seeing what people in general were excluded from, walked in a proud +and stately manner to the door, and when the man opened it, saw only a +small, dark room, with nothing in it but brooms, dust pans, and lamp +fillers. She was exceedingly abashed by this adventure, and for the rest +of that day she did not once ask to see any thing that was not +voluntarily shown to her. + +After visiting all the places of note in the town, the coachman was +ordered to drive to the watering place on the sea shore. It was a very +pleasant drive of about three miles. Just before reaching the shore of +the sea, the road came to a region of sand hills, called _dunes_, formed +by the drifting sands blown in from the beach by the winds. Among these +dunes, and close to the sea shore, was an immense hotel, with long wings +stretching a hundred feet on each side, and a row of bath vans on the +margin of the beach before it. The beach was low and shelving, and it +could be traced for miles in either direction along the coast, whitened +by the surf that was rolling in from the German Ocean. + +After looking at this prospect for a time, and watching to see one or +two of the bathing vans drive down into the surf, in order to allow +ladies who had got into them to bathe, the party returned to the +carriage, and the coachman drove them through the village, which was +very quaint and queer, and inhabited by fishermen. The fishing boats +were drawn up on the shore in great numbers, very near the houses. Rollo +desired very much to go and see these boats and the fishermen, and +learn, if he could, what kind of fish they caught in them, and how they +caught them. But Mrs. Parkman thought that they had better not stop. +They were nothing but common fishing boats, she said. + +The carriage returned to the Hague by a different road from the one in +which it came. It was a road that led through a beautiful wood, where +there were many pleasant walks, with curious looking Dutch women going +and coming. As the party approached the town, they passed through a +region of parks, and palaces, and splendid mansions of all kinds. Mrs. +Parkman was curious to know who lived in each house, and Mr. George +contrived to communicate her inquiries to the coachman, by making signs, +and by asking questions partly in English and partly in German. But +though the coachman understood the questions, Mrs. Parkman could not +understand the answers that he gave, for they were Dutch +names,--sometimes long and sometimes short; but whether they were long +or short, the sounds were so uncouth and strange that Mrs. Parkman +looked terribly distressed in trying to make them out. + +At length the carriage arrived at the hotel again; and there the porters +put on the baggage belonging both to Mr. and Mrs. Parkman, and to Mr. +George and Rollo. It then proceeded to the station. Mr. George and Rollo +waited there until the train for Amsterdam arrived, and then took leave +of Mr. and Mrs. Parkman as they went to their seats in the carriage. +Mrs. Parkman shook hands with Mr. George very cordially, and said,-- + +"We are very much obliged to you, Mr. George, for your company to-day. +We have had a very pleasant time. I wish that we could have you to +travel with us all the time." + + * * * * * + +"I think she ought to be obliged to you," said Rollo, as soon as the +train had gone. + +"Not at all," said Mr. George. + +"Not at all?" repeated Rollo. "Why not? You have done a great deal for +her to-day." + +"No," said Mr. George. "All that I have done has not been for her sake, +but for William's. William is an excellent good friend of mine, and I am +very sorry that he has not got a more agreeable travelling companion." + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +CORRESPONDENCE. + + +One day, when Mr. George and Rollo were at the town of Leyden, it began +to rain while they were eating their breakfast. + +"Never mind," said Rollo. "We can walk about the town if it does rain." + +"Yes," said Mr. George, "we can; but we shall get tired of walking about +much sooner if it rains, than if it were pleasant weather. However, I am +not very sorry, for I should like to write some letters." + +"I've a great mind to write a letter, too," said Rollo. "I'll write to +my mother. Don't you think that would be a good plan?" + +"Why,--I don't know,"--said Mr. George, speaking in rather a doubtful +tone. "It seems to me that it would be hardly worth while." + +"Why not?" asked Rollo. + +"Why, the postage is considerable," said Mr. George, "and I don't +believe the letter would be worth what your father would have to pay for +it; that is, if it is such a letter as I suppose you would write." + +"Why, what sort of a letter do you suppose I should write?" asked Rollo. + +"O, you would do as boys generally do in such cases," replied his uncle. +"In the first place you would want to take the biggest sheet that you +could find to write the letter upon. Then you would take up as much of +the space as possible writing the date, and _My dear mother_. Then you +would go on for a few lines, saying things of no interest to any body, +such as telling what day you came to this place, and what day to that. +Perhaps you'd say that to-day is a rainy day, and that yesterday was +pleasant--just as if your mother, when she gets your letter, would care +any thing about knowing what particular days were rainy and what +pleasant, in Holland, a week back. Then, after you had got about two +thirds down the page, you would stop because you could not think of any +thing more to say, and subscribe your name with ever so many scrawl +flourishes, and as many affectionate and dutiful phrases as you could +get to fill up the space. + +"And that would be a letter that your father, like as not, would have to +pay one and sixpence or two shillings sterling for, to the London +postman." + +Rollo laughed at this description of the probable result of his proposed +attempt to write a letter; but he laughed rather faintly, for he well +recollected how many times he had written letters in just such a way. He +secretly resolved, however, that when they came in from their walk, and +Mr. George sat down to his writing, he would write too, and would see +whether he could not, for once, produce a letter that should be at least +worth the postage. + +After they came in from their walk, they asked the landlady to have a +fire made in their room; but she said they could not have any fire, for +the stoves were not put up. She said it was the custom in Holland not to +put the stoves up until October; and so nobody could have a fire in any +thing but foot stoves until that time. The foot stoves, she said, would +make it very comfortable for them. + +So she brought in two foot stoves. They consisted of small, square +boxes, with holes bored in the top, and a little fire of peat in an +earthen vessel within. Rollo asked Mr. George to give him two sheets of +thin note paper, and he established himself at a window that looked out +upon a canal. He intended to amuse himself in the intervals of his +writing in watching the boats that were passing along the canal. + +He took two sheets of note paper instead of one sheet of letter paper, +in order that, if he should get tired after filling one of them, he +could stop, and so send what he had written, without causing his father +to pay postage on any useless paper. + +"Then," thought he, "if I do _not_ get tired, I will go on and fill the +second sheet, and my mother will have a double small letter. A double +small letter will be just as good as a single large one." + +This was an excellent plan. + +Rollo also took great pains to guard against another fault which boys +often fall into in writing their letters; that is, the fault of growing +careless about the writing as they go on with the work, by which means a +letter is produced which looks very neat and pretty at the beginning, +but becomes an ill-looking and almost illegible scrawl at the end. + +"I'll begin," said he, "as I think I shall be able to hold out; and I'll +hold out to the end just as I begin." + +Rollo remained over his letter more than three hours. He would have +become exceedingly tired with the work if he had written continuously +all this time; but he stopped to rest very often, and to amuse himself +with observing what was passing before him in the street and on the +canal. + +Mr. George was occupied all this time in writing _his_ letter, and each +read what he had written to the other that same evening, after dinner. +The two letters were as follows:-- + + MR. GEORGE'S LETTER. + + "LEYDEN, HOLLAND, September 27. + + "MY DEAR EDWARD:[6] + +[Footnote 6: Edward was Mr. George's brother. He was a boy about twelve +years old.] + +"We have been travelling now for several days in Holland, and it is one +of the most curious and amusing countries to travel in that I have ever +seen. + +"We all know from the books of geography which we study at school, that +Holland is a very low country--lower in many places than the ocean; and +that the water of the ocean is kept from overflowing it by dikes, which +the people built ages ago, along the shores. I always used to suppose +that it was only from the sea that people had any danger to fear of +inundations; but I find now that it is not so. + +"The people have to defend themselves from inundations, not only on the +side towards the sea, but also quite as much, if not more, on the side +towards the land, from the waters of the River Rhine. The River Rhine +rises in Switzerland, and flows through various countries of Europe +until it comes to the borders of Holland, and there it spreads out into +innumerable branches, and runs every where, all over the country. It +would often overflow the country entirely, were it not that the banks +are guarded by dikes, like the dikes of the sea. The various branches of +the rivers are connected together by canals, which are also higher than +the land on each side of them. Thus the whole country is covered with a +great network of canals, rivers, and inlets from the sea, with water in +them higher than the land. When the tide is low in the sea, the surplus +water from these rivers and canals flows off through immense sluices at +the mouth of them. When the tide comes up, it is kept from flowing in by +immense gates, with which the sluices are closed. They call the tracts +of land that lie lower than the channels of water around them, +_polders_. That is rather a queer name. I suppose it is a Dutch name. + +"The polders all have drains and canals cut in them. As we ride along in +the railway carriages we overlook these polders. They look like immense +green fields, extending as far as you can see, with straight canals +running through them in every direction, and crossing each other at +right angles. These canals, in the bottom of the polders, are about six +feet wide. They are wide enough to prevent the cattle from jumping +across them, and so they serve for fences to divide the fields from each +other. They also serve for roads, for the Dutchmen use boats on their +farms to get in their hay and produce, instead of carts. + +"The water that collects in these low canals and drains, which run +across the polders, cannot flow out into the large canals, which are +higher than they are, and so they have to pump it out. They pump it out +generally by means of wind mills. So wherever you go, throughout all +Holland, you find an immense number of wind mills. These wind mills are +very curious indeed. Some of them are immensely large. They look like +lighthouses. The large ones are generally built of brick, and some of +them are several hundred years old. The sails of the big ones are often +fifty feet long, and sometimes eighty feet. This makes a wheel one +hundred and sixty feet in diameter. When you stand under one of these +mills, and look up, and see these immense sails revolving so high in the +air that the lowest point, when the sail comes round, is higher than the +tops of the four story houses, the effect is quite sublime. + +"With these wind mills they pump the water up from one drain or canal to +another, till they get it high enough to run off into the sea. In some +places, however, it is very difficult to get the water into the sea even +in this way, even at low tides. The River Amstel, for instance, which +comes out at Amsterdam, and into which a great many canals and channels +are pumped, is so low at its mouth that the sea is never, at the lowest +tides, more than a foot and a half below it. At high tides the sea is a +great deal above it. The average is about a foot above. Of course it +requires a great deal of management to get the waters of the river out, +and avoid letting the water of the sea in. They do it by immense +sluices, which are generally kept shut, and only opened when the tide is +low. + +"In the mean time, if it should ever so happen that they could not +succeed in letting the water out fast enough, it would, of course, +accumulate, and rise in the rivers, and press against the dikes that run +along the banks of it, till at last it would break through in some weak +place; and then, unless the people could stop the breach, the whole +polder on that side would be gradually overflowed. The inundation would +extend until it came to some other dike to stop it. The polder that +would first be filled would become a lake. The lake would be many miles +in extent, perhaps, but the water in it would not usually be very +deep--not more than eight or ten feet, perhaps; though in some cases +the polders are so low, that an inundation from the rivers and canals +around it would make the lake twenty or thirty feet deep. + +"Of course, in ancient times, when a portion of the country became thus +submerged, it was for the people to consider whether they would abandon +it or try to pump all that water out again, by means of the wind mills. +They would think that if they pumped it out it would be some years +before the land would be good again; for the salt in the water would +tend to make it barren. So they would sometimes abandon it, and put all +their energy into requisition to strengthen the dikes around it, in +order to prevent the inundation from spreading any farther. For water, +in Holland, tends to spread and to destroy life and property, just as +fire does in other countries. The lakes and rivers, where they are +higher than the land, are liable to burst their barriers after heavy +rains falling in the country, or great floods coming down the rivers, or +high tides rise from the sea, and so run into each other; and the people +have continually to contend against this danger, just as in other +countries they do against spreading conflagrations. + +"In the case of spreading fire, water is the great friend and helper of +man; and in the case of these spreading inundations of water, it is +wind that he relies upon. The only mode that the Dutch had to pump out +the water in former times was the wind mills. When the rains or the +tides inundated the land, they called upon the wind to help them lift +the water out to where it could flow away again. + +"There was a time, two or three hundred years ago, when all the wind +mills that the people could make, seem not to have been enough to do the +work; and there was one place, in the centre of the country, where the +water continued to spread more and more--breaking through as it spread +from one polder to another--until, at last, it swallowed up such an +extent of country as to form a lake thirty miles in circumference. This +lake at last extended very near to the gates of Haarlem, and it was +called the Holland Lake. You will find it laid down on all the maps of +Holland, except those which have been printed within a few years. The +reason why it is not laid down now is, because a few years ago, finding +that the wind mills were not strong enough to pump it out, the +government concluded to try what virtue there might be in steam. So they +first repaired and strengthened the range of dikes that extended round +the lake. In fact, they made them double all around, leaving a space +between for a canal. They made both the inner and outer of these dikes +water-tight; so that the water should neither soak back into the lake +again, after it was pumped out, nor ooze out into the polders beyond. +The way they made them water-tight was by lining them on both sides with +a good thick coating of clay. + +"When the dikes enclosing the lake were completed, the engineers set up +three very powerful steam engines, and gave to each one ten or twelve +enormous pumps to work. These pumping engines were made on such a grand +scale that they lifted over sixty tuns of water at every stroke. But yet +so large was the lake, and so vast the quantity of water to be drained, +that though there were three of the engines working at this rate, and +though they were kept at work night and day, it took them a year and a +half to lay the ground dry. The work was, however, at last accomplished, +and now, what was the bottom of the lake is all converted into pastures +and green fields. But they still have to keep the pumps going all the +time to lift out the surplus water that falls over the whole space in +rain. You may judge that the amount is very large that falls on a +district thirty miles round. They calculate that the quantity which they +have to pump up now, every year, in order to keep the land from being +overflowed again, is over fifty millions of tuns. And that is a quantity +larger than you can ever conceive of. + +"And yet the piece of ground is so large, that the cost of this pumping +makes only about fifty cents for each acre of land, which is very +little. + +"Besides these great spreading inundations, which Holland has always +been subject to from the lakes and rivers in the middle of the country, +there has always been a greater danger still to be feared from the ice +freshets of the Rhine, and other great rivers coming from the interior +of the country. The Rhine, you know, flows from south to north, and +often the ice, in the spring, breaks up in the middle of the course of +the river, before it gets thawed in Holland. The broken ice, in coming +down the stream towards the north, is kept within the banks of the +stream where the banks are high; but when it reaches Holland it is not +only no longer so confined, but it finds its flow obstructed by the ice +which there still remains solid, and so it gets jammed and forms dams, +and that makes the water rise very fast. At one time when such a dam was +formed, the water rose seven feet in an hour. At such times the pressure +becomes so prodigious that the dikes along the bank of the river are +burst, and water, sand, gravel, and ice, all pour over together upon +the surrounding country, and overwhelm and destroy every thing that +comes in its way. + +"Some of the inundations caused in Holland by these floods and freshets +have been terrible. In ancient times they were worse than they are now; +because now the dikes are stronger, and are better guarded. At one +inundation that occurred about sixty years ago, eighty thousand persons +were drowned. At another, three hundred years earlier, one hundred +thousand perished. Think what awful floods there must have been. + +"But I cannot write any more in this letter. I have taken up so much +space and time in telling you about the inundations and freshets, that I +have not time to describe a great many other things which I have seen, +that are quite as curious and remarkable as they. But when I get home I +can tell you all about them, in the winter evenings, and read to you +about them from my journal. + + "Your affectionate brother, + "GEORGE." + + + ROLLO'S LETTER. + + "LEYDEN, Tuesday, September 27. + + "MY DEAR MOTHER: + +"Uncle George and I are having a very fine time indeed in travelling +about Holland; it is such a funny country, on account of there being so +many canals. The water is all smooth and still in all the canals, +(except when the wind blows,) and so there must be excellent skating +every where in the winter. + +"I wish it was winter here now, for one day, so that uncle George and I +could have some Dutch skating. + +"There must be good skating every where here in the winter, for there is +water every where, and it is all good water for skating. In the fields, +instead of brooks running in crooked ways and tumbling over rocks, there +are only long and narrow channels of smooth water, just about wide +enough to skate upon, and reaching as far as you can see. + +"The people here speak Dutch, and they cannot understand me, and I +cannot understand them. And that is not the worst of it; they can't +understand that _I can't understand_ them. Sometimes the woman that +comes to make my bed tells me something in Dutch, and I tell her that I +can't understand. I know the Dutch for 'I can't understand.' Then she +says, 'O!' and goes on to tell me over again, only now she tries to +speak plainer--as if it could make any difference to me whether she +speaks plain or not. I shake my head, and tell her I can't understand +any thing. I tell her in French, and in English, and in Dutch. But it +does not do any good, for she immediately begins again, and tells me the +whole story all over again, trying to speak plainer than ever. I suppose +she thinks that any body can understand Dutch, if she only speaks it +plain enough to them. + +"When I want any thing of them, I always tell them by signs. The other +evening, uncle George and I wanted some candles. So I rang the bell, and +a woman came. I went to the door of the room, and made believe that I +had two candlesticks in my hand, and that I was bringing them in. I +made believe put them on the table, and then sat down and opened a book, +and pretended that I was reading by the light of them. She understood me +immediately. She laughed, and said, 'Ya, ya!' and went off out of the +room to get the candles. + +"Ya, ya, means yes, yes. + +"Another time we wanted a fire. So when the woman came in, I shivered, +and made believe that I was very cold, and then I went to the fireplace, +and made believe warm myself. Then I pointed to the fireplace, and made +a sign for her to go away and bring the fire to put there. But instead +of going, she told me something in Dutch, and shook her head; and when I +said I could not understand it, she told me over again; and finally she +went away, and sent the landlady. The landlady could speak a little +English. So she told me that we could not have any fire except in foot +stoves, for the fireplace stoves were not put up. + +[Illustration: THE BOAT FAMILY.] + +"It is very curious to walk about the streets, and see the boats on the +canals, and what the people are carrying back and forth in them. I watch +them sometimes from the windows of the hotel, especially when it rains, +and we cannot go out. They have every thing in these boats. They use +some of them instead of houses; and the man who owns them lives in them +with his wife and children, and sometimes with his ducks and chickens. + +"I often see the little children playing on the decks of the boat. Once +I saw one that had a dog, and he was trying to teach him to cipher on a +slate. His mother and the other children were on the boat too. + +"The people use their dogs here to draw carts. They have three or four +sometimes harnessed in together. The dogs look pretty poor and lean, but +they draw like good fellows. You would be surprised to see what great +loads they draw. They draw loads of vegetables to market, and then, when +the vegetables are sold, they draw the market women home in the empty +carts. + +"Only they don't mind very well, when they are told which way to go. I +saw a boy yesterday riding along in a cart, with a good big dog to draw +him, and when he came to a street where he wanted him to turn down, the +dog would not turn. The boy hallooed out to him in Dutch a good many +times, and finally the boy had to jump down out of the cart, and run and +seize him by the collar, and _pull_ him round. + +"It is not a great deal that they use dog carts to bring things to +market, for generally they bring them in boats. They take almost every +thing to and fro along the canals in boats; and it is very curious to +stand on a bridge and look down on the boats that pass under, and see +how many different kinds of boats there are, and how many different +kinds of things they have in them. This morning, I saw one that had the +bottom of it divided into three pens for animals. In the first pen were +two great cows, lying down on the straw; in the second pen were several +sheep; and in the third there were as many as a dozen small pigs, just +big enough to be roasted. I suppose it was a farmer bringing in his +stock to market. + +"Sometimes they row the boats along the canal, and sometimes they push +them with setting poles. They have the longest setting poles in some of +the boats that I ever saw. There is an iron pike at one end of the pole, +and a wooden knob at the other. When they are pushing the boat by means +of one of these poles, they run the ironed end of it down to the bottom, +and then the man puts his shoulder to the little knob at the other end +and pushes. As the boat goes on, he walks along the boat from the bow to +the stern, pushing all the way as hard as he can push. + +"When they are out of town the men pull the boats along the canals by +means of a long cord, which is fastened to a strap over their shoulders. +With this strap they walk along on the tow-path of the canal, pulling in +this way--so that if the cord should break, I should think they would +fall headlong on the ground. + +"I saw a man and a woman the other day pulling a double boat, loaded +with hay, along a canal. The hay was loaded across from one boat to the +other. It made as much as five or six of the largest cart loads of hay +that I ever saw. I was surprised to see that a man and a woman could +draw so much. They drew it by long lines, and by straps over their +shoulders. The woman's line was fastened to one of the boats, and the +man's to the other. + +"The people travel a great deal in boats in these parts of the country, +where there are no railroads. Uncle George and I took a little journey +in one, the other day. I wanted to go very much, but uncle George was +afraid, he said, that they might take us somewhere where there would be +nobody that could talk English, and so we might get into some serious +difficulty. But he said that he would go with me a few miles, if I could +find a canal boat going to some place that we knew. So I found one going +to a town called Delft. We knew that place, because we had come through +it, or close by it, by the railway. + +"Uncle George said that it was an excellent plan to go there, for then, +if we got tired of the canal boat in going, we could come home by a +railroad train. + +"So we went; and we had a very pleasant time, indeed. I found the canal +boat by going to the place where the boats all were, and saying, _Delft, +Delft_, to the people; and then they pointed me to the right boat. So we +got in. When the captain came for the fare, I took out a handful of +money, and said _Delft_, and also pointed to uncle George. So he took +out enough to pay for uncle George and me to go to Delft. At least I +suppose he thought it was enough, though I thought it was very little. + +"We had a very pleasant sail to Delft. The banks of the canal are +beautiful. They are green and pretty every where, and in some places +there were beautiful gardens, and summer houses, and pavilions close +upon the shore. + +"But now I begin to be tired of writing. I should have been tired a +great while ago, only I have stopped to rest pretty often, and to look +out the window, and see what is going by on the canal. + +"There is a boat coming now with a mast, and I don't see what they are +going to do, for there is a bridge here, and it is not a draw bridge. +Almost all the bridges are draw bridges, but this one is not. So I don't +see how he is going to get by. + +"Ah, I see how it is! The mast is on a hinge, so that it can turn down +backward, and lie along flat on the deck of the boat. It is going down +now. + +"Now it is down, and the boat is going under the bridge. + +"But good by, mother, for it is time for me to stop. + + "Your affectionate and dutiful son, + "ROLLO. + +"P. S. This is the longest letter that I ever wrote." + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +THE COMMISSIONER. + + +AS may well be imagined, the best use to which the green fields of +Holland can be put, is the raising of grass to feed cattle; for the +wetness of the land, which makes it somewhat unsuitable to be ploughed, +causes grass to grow upon it very luxuriantly. Accordingly, as you ride +through the country along the great railway lines, you see, every where, +herds of cattle and flocks of sheep feeding in the meadows that extend +far and wide in every direction. + +The cattle are kept partly for the purpose of being fatted and sent to +market for beef, and partly for their milk, which the Dutch farmers make +cheese of. Dutch cheeses are celebrated in every part of the world. + +In the neighborhood of Amsterdam there are a number of dairy villages +where cheeses are made, and some of them are almost always visited by +travellers. They are great curiosities, in fact, on account of their +singular and most extraordinary neatness. Cleanliness is, in all parts +of the world, deemed a very essential requisite of a dairy, and the +Dutch housewives in the dairy villages of Holland have carried the idea +to the extreme. The village which is most commonly visited by strangers +who go to Amsterdam, is one called Broek. It lies to the north of +Amsterdam, and at a distance of about five or six miles from it. + +One day when Mr. George and Rollo arrived in Amsterdam, Mr. George, just +at sundown, looked out at the window of the hotel, and said,-- + +"Rollo, I think it is going to be a superb day to-morrow." + +"So do I," said Rollo. + +"At least," said Mr. George, "I should think so if I were in America. +The wind has all gone down, and the western sky is full of golden clouds +shining in roseate splendor." + +Mr. George enunciated these high-sounding words in a pompous and +theatrical manner, which made Rollo laugh very heartily. + +"And, to descend from poetry to plain prose," said Mr. George, "I think +we had better take advantage of the fine weather to go to Broek +to-morrow." + +"Very well," said Rollo, "that plan suits me exactly." + +Rollo was always ready for any plan which involved the going away from +the place where he was, to some new place which he had not seen before. + +"But how are we going to find the way there?" said Rollo. + +"I shall take a commissioner," said Mr. George. "I am going to Saandam, +too, where Peter the Great learned ship carpentry." + +"I have heard something about that," said Rollo, "but I don't know much +about it." + +"Why, Peter the Great was emperor of Russia," said Mr. George, "and he +wished to introduce ship building into his dominions. So he came to +Holland to learn about the construction of ships, in order that he might +be better qualified to take the direction of the building of a fleet in +Russia. Saandam was the place that he came to. While he was there he +lived in a small, wooden house, near the place where the ship building +was going on. That house is there now, and almost every body that comes +to this part of the country goes to see it." + +"How long ago was it that he was there?" asked Rollo. + +"It was more than one hundred and fifty years ago," said Mr. George. + +"I should not think a wooden house would have lasted so long," said +Rollo. + +"It would not have lasted so long," replied Mr. George, "if they had not +taken special pains to preserve it. They have built a brick house around +it and over it, to protect it from the weather, and so it has been +preserved. Now I think we had better go to-morrow and see Broek, and +also Saandam, and I am going to take a commissioner." + +Mr. George had employed a commissioner once before, as the reader will +perhaps recollect, namely, at the Hague; and perhaps I ought to stop +here a moment to explain more fully what a commissioner is. He is a +servant hired by the day to conduct strangers about the town where they +reside, and about the environs, if necessary, to show them what there is +that is curious and wonderful there. These men are called, sometimes +commissioners and sometimes _valets de place_, and in their way they are +very useful. + +If a traveller arrives at a hotel in the morning, at any important town +in Europe, before he has been in his room fifteen minutes he generally +hears a knock at his door, and on bidding the person come in, a +well-dressed looking servant man appears and asks,-- + +"Shall you wish for a commissioner, sir, to-day?" + +Or if the gentleman, after remaining in his room a few minutes, takes +his wife or his daughter, or whomever he may have travelling with him, +and goes out from the door of the hotel, he is pretty sure to be met +near the door by one or more of these men, who accost him earnestly, +saying,-- + +"Do you want a commissioner, sir?" Or, "Shall I show you the way, sir?" +Or, "Would you like to see the museum, sir?" + +When a traveller intends to remain some days in a place, he has +generally no occasion for a commissioner; since, in his rambles about +the town, he usually finds all the places of interest himself, and in +such a case the importunities of the commissioners seeking employment +are sometimes annoying to him. But if his time is very short, or if he +wishes to make excursions into the neighborhood of a town where he does +not understand the language of the people, then such a servant is of +very great advantage. + +Mr. George thought that his proposed excursion to Broek and Saandam was +an occasion on which a commissioner could be very advantageously +employed. Accordingly, after he and Rollo had finished their dinner, +which they took at a round table near a window in the coffee room, he +asked Rollo to ring the bell. + +Rollo did so, and a waiter came in. + +"Send me in a commissioner, if you please," said Mr. George. + +"Very well, sir," said the waiter, with a bow. + +The waiter went out, and in a few minutes a well-dressed and very +respectable looking young man came in, and advancing towards Mr. George, +said,-- + +"Did you wish to see a commissioner, sir?" + +"Yes," said Mr. George. "I want to make some inquiries about going to +Broek and to Saandam, to-morrow. I want to know what the best way is to +go, and what the expenses will be." + +So saying, Mr. George took out a pencil and a piece of paper from his +pocket, in order to make a memorandum of what the commissioner should +say. + +"In the first place," asked Mr. George, "what is your name? I shall want +to know what to call you." + +"My name is James," said the commissioner. + +"Well, now, James," said Mr. George, "I want you to tell me what the +best way is to go, and what all the expenses will be. I want to know +every thing beforehand." + +"Well, sir," said James, "we shall go first by the ferry boat across to +the Y,[7] and there we shall take the _trekschuyt_ for a short distance +on the canal." + +[Footnote 7: The Y is the name of the sheet of water which lies before +Amsterdam. It is a sort of harbor.] + +"And how much will that cost?" asked Mr. George. + +"For the three, forty-five cents," said James. + +He meant, of course, Dutch cents. It takes two and a half Dutch cents to +make one American cent. + +"There," continued James, "we take a carriage." + +"And how much will the carriage be?" asked Mr. George. + +"To go to Broek and back, and then to Saandam, will be ten guilders." + +Mr. George made memoranda of these sums on his paper, as James named +them. + +"And the tolls," continued James, "will be one guilder and twenty-five +cents more." + +"And the driver?" asked Mr. George. + +In most of the countries of Europe, when you make a bargain for the +carriage, the driver's services are not included in it. He expects a fee +besides. + +"The driver, fifty cents. Half a guilder," said James. + +"Is that enough for him?" asked Mr. George. + +"Yes, sir," said James, "that's enough." + +"We will call it seventy-five cents," said Mr. George. So saying, he +wrote seventy-five. + +"Then there will be some fees to pay, I suppose," said Mr. George, "both +at Broek and at Saandam." + +"Yes, sir," said James. "We pay twenty-five cents at the dairy, +twenty-five cents at the garden, and twenty-five to the hostler. That +makes seventy-five. And the same at Saandam, to see the hut of Peter the +Great, and the house. That makes one guilder fifty centimes." + +"Is that all?" asked Mr. George. + +"There will be forty-five cents for the ferry, coming back," said James. + +Mr. George added this sum to the column, and then footed it up. The +amount was nearly fifteen guilders. + +"We will call it fifteen guilders," said he. "To-morrow I will give you +fifteen guilders, and you will pay all expenses. And then what shall I +have to pay you for your services?" + +"My charge is four guilders for the day," said James. + +"Very well," said Mr. George. "And at what time in the morning will it +be best to set out?" + +"There is a boat at nine o'clock," said James. + +"Then we will leave here at half past eight. We will have breakfast, +Rollo, at eight. Or perhaps we can have breakfast at Broek. Is there a +hotel there, James?" + +"Yes, sir," said James. "There is a hotel there." + +"Very well. Then we will wait till we get there before we take +breakfast, and we will expect you at half past eight. Our room is number +eleven." + +The arrangement being thus fully made, the commissioner, promising to be +punctual, bowed and retired. + +"Now, Rollo," said Mr. George, "to-morrow we will have a good time. +After I give the commissioner the fifteen guilders, I shall have no +further care or responsibility, but shall be taken along over the whole +ground as if I were a child under the care of his father." + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +THE GREAT CANAL. + +The commissioner knocked at Mr. George's door at the time appointed. Mr. +George and Rollo were both ready. Mr. George counted out the fifteen +guilders on the table, and James put them in his pocket. The party then +set out. + +Mr. George wished to stop by the way to put a letter in the post office, +and to pay the postage of it. He desired to do this personally, for he +wished to inquire whether the letter would go direct. So James led them +by the way of the post office, and conducted Mr. George into the office +where foreign letters were received, and the payment of postage taken +for them. Here James served as interpreter. Indeed, it is one of the +most important duties of a commissioner to serve as an interpreter to +his employer, whenever his services are required in this capacity. + +When the letter was put in, the party resumed their walk. The +commissioner went on before, carrying Mr. George's travelling shawl and +the umbrella, and Mr. George and Rollo followed. The way lay along a +narrow street, by the side of a canal. There were a thousand curious +sights to be seen, both among the boats on the canal and along the road; +but Rollo could not stop to examine them, for the commissioner walked +pretty fast. + +"I wish he would not walk so fast," said Rollo. + +"Ah, yes," said Mr. George, "he is right this morning, for we want to +get to the pier in time for the boat. But in walking about the town to +see it, it would be a great trouble to us." + +"To-morrow we will go about by ourselves," said Rollo, "and stop when +and where we please." + +"We will," said Mr. George. + +At last the party came out to what may be called the front of the city, +where they could look off upon the harbor. This harbor is a sheet of +water called the Y, which has been before referred to. The morning was +bright and beautiful, and the water was covered with ships, steamers, +barges, boats, and vessels of every form and size, going to and fro. The +steamers passed swiftly, but the sailing vessels scarcely moved, so calm +and still was the morning air. The sun was shining, and the whole scene +presented to Mr. George's and Rollo's view, as they looked out over the +water, was extremely brilliant and beautiful. + +The commissioner led the way out over a long pier supported by piles, to +a sort of landing platform at a distance from the shore. This place was +quite large. It had a tavern upon it, and a great many different offices +belonging to the different lines of steamers, and piers projecting in +different directions for the different boats and steamers to land at. It +stood at some distance from the shore, and the whole had the appearance +of a little village on an island. It would have been an island indeed, +if there had been any land about it; but there was not. It was built +wholly on piles. + +Here were crowds of people going and coming on this stage, some having +just landed from the different steamers that had just arrived, and some +about to embark in others that were going away. Small boats were coming, +too, over the water, with passengers in them, among whom were many +peasant girls, whose foreheads and temples were adorned with a profusion +of golden ornaments, such as are worn by the ladies of North Holland. +Rollo looked this way and that as he passed along the stage, and he +wished for time to stop and examine what he saw; but the commissioner +walked rapidly on, and led the way to the ferry boat. + +"You will walk on board," said James, "while I get the tickets." + +So Mr. George and Rollo went over the plank on board the boat, while +James turned to a little office that stood near to get the tickets. + +There was a man standing at the end of the plank to collect the tickets +as the passengers came on board. Mr. George, as he passed, pointed back +to the office where James had gone. The man bowed, and he and Rollo +passed on. + +"How independent we are!" said Mr. George. "I shall have nothing to do +with making any payments all day to-day, and it will seem as if we were +travelling free." + +The ferry boat was of a very singular construction, and most singular +looking people they were who were on board of it. It had a great flat +deck, which was of an oval form, and was spreading out very wide at the +sides. There were seats here and there in different places, but no +awning or shelter of any kind overhead. Rollo was glad of this, for the +morning was so fine, and the view on every side was so magnificent, that +he was very much pleased to have it so wholly unobstructed. + +As soon as the chimes of the city clocks began to strike for nine, the +various steamboats began to shoot out in different directions from the +piers of the landing, and soon the ferry boat began to move, too. She +moved, however, very slowly. + +"What a slow and clumsy boat!" said Rollo. + +"I'm glad she is slow," replied Mr. George, "for I want to look about. I +should be willing to be an hour in going across this ferry." + +The prospect on every side was, indeed, very fine. On looking back they +could see the buildings of the town extending far and wide for miles, +with domes, and towers, and spires, and tops of trees, and masts of +ships rising together every where above the tops of the houses. The +water of the harbor was covered with ships and steamers passing to and +fro--those near glittering in the sun, while the distant ones were half +lost in a smoky haze that every where softened and concealed the +horizon. Mr. George and Rollo gazed earnestly on this scene, looking now +in this direction, and now in that, but not speaking a word. + +When they were about half across the Y, James came to Mr. George, and +said,-- + +"This ferry boat connects with a steamer on the canal, which goes to the +Helder, and also with various trekschuyts. We shall take a trekschuyt to +go for a short distance?--as far as to the place where we shall get a +carriage." + +"Very well," said Mr. George. "Arrange it as you think best. Then we +shall go a short distance on the great canal." + +"Yes, sir," said James. "You will like to see a little of the canal." + +"I shall, indeed," said Mr. George. + +The great canal of which James here spoke is the grandest work of the +kind in Holland, and perhaps in the world. If you look at the map you +will see that Amsterdam stands somewhat in the interior of the country, +and that the only approach to it, by sea, is through a great gulf called +the Zuyder Zee. Now, the water in the Zuyder Zee is shallow. There are +channels, it is true, that are tolerably deep; but they are very winding +and intricate, and they are so surrounded with shoals and sand banks as +to make the navigation very difficult, especially for ships of large +size. + +The people, accordingly, conceived the plan of digging a canal across +the country; from Amsterdam to the nearest place where there was deep +water on the sea. This was at a point of land called the Helder. + +The reason why there was deep water there, was, that that was the outlet +for the Zuyder Zee, and the water rushing in there when the tide is +rising, and out again when it goes down, keeps the channel deep and +clear. + +So it was determined to make a canal from the Helder to Amsterdam. But +the land was lower, almost all the way, than the sea. This rendered it +impossible to construct the canal so as to make it of the same level +with the sea, without building up the banks of it to an inconvenient +height. Besides, it was just as well to make the canal lower than the +sea, and then to build gates at each end of it, to prevent the sea water +from coming in. + +"Then how were the ships to get in?" asked Rollo, when Mr. George +explained this to him. + +"Why, there were two ways," replied Mr. George, "by which ships might +get in. You see, although the canal is lower than the sea is generally, +there is an hour or two every day when the tide goes down, in which the +two are about on a level. Accordingly, by opening the gates when the +tide is low, a communication would be made by which the vessels could +sail in and out." + +"But that would be inconvenient, I should think," said Rollo, "not to +have the gates open but twice a day." + +"Yes," said Mr. George; "and so, to enable them to admit ships at any +time, they have built _locks_ at each end." + +"Like the locks in a common canal in America?" said Rollo. + +"Yes," said Mr. George; "and by means of these locks, ships can be +taken in and out at any time." + +"I don't exactly understand how they do it," said Rollo. + +"Let me explain it to you, then," replied Mr. George. "Listen +attentively, and picture to your mind precisely what I describe, and see +if you understand. + +"First," continued Mr. George, "imagine that you are down by the sea +shore, where the canal ends. The water in the sea is higher than it is +in the canal, and there are two sets of gates, at a little distance from +each other, near the mouth of the canal, which keep the water of the sea +from flowing in." + +"Yes," said Rollo, "I can picture that to my mind. But how far apart are +the two sets of gates?" + +"A little farther apart," said Mr. George, "than the length of the +longest ship. Of course one pair of these locks is towards the sea, and +the other towards the canal. I will call the first the sea gates, and +the other the canal gates. The space between the two gates is called the +lock." + +"Yes," said Rollo, "I understand all that." + +"Now," continued Mr. George, "a ship comes in, we will suppose, and is +to be taken into the canal. First, the men open the sea gates. The sea +can now flow into the lock, but it cannot get into the canal, because +the canal gates are still shut." + +"Yes," said Rollo. + +"And, now you see," continued Mr. George, "that as the water in the lock +is high, and on a level with the sea, the ship can sail into the lock." + +"But it can't get down into the canal," said Rollo. + +"No," replied Mr. George, "not yet. But now the men shut the sea gates, +and thus shut the ship in. They then open the passages through the canal +gates, and this lets the water out of the lock until it subsides to the +level of that in the canal, and the ship settles down with it. But the +sea cannot come in, for the sea gates, that are now behind the ship, are +shut. When the water in the lock has gone down to the canal level, then +they can open the gates, and the ship can sail along out of the lock +into the canal. + +"Thus they lock the ship down into the canal at one end, and when she +has passed through the canal, they lock her up into the Y again at the +other." + +"Yes," said Rollo. "I understand it now. And shall we go into the canal +through the locks in this way?" + +"I don't know," said Mr. George. "I'll ask James." + +So Mr. George beckoned to James to come to him, and asked him whether +they should enter the canal through the lock. + +"No," said James. "The ferry boat does not go into the canal at all. We +go into a little dock or harbor by the side of it, and the passengers +walk over the dike, and down to the canal, where they find the boats +ready for them that they are to take." + +"Why don't they pass from those boats through the locks, and let them +come across to Amsterdam?" asked Rollo, "and then we might get on board +them there, and so not have to change from one boat to the other." + +"Because it takes some time, and some trouble," said James, "to pass any +thing through the locks, and it is not worth while to do it, except in +case of large and valuable ships. So the boats and steamers that ply +along the canal are left inside the lock, and the passengers are taken +to and from them by the ferry boat." + +The ferry boat, by this time, began to approach the shore. It entered +into a little opening in the land, which formed a sort of harbor. Here +the passengers were landed at a wharf, which was surrounded by small +buildings. Thence they ascended what was evidently a large dike. When +they reached the top of the dike they saw below them, on the other side +of it, the beginning of the canal. It lay several feet lower than the +water of the harbor in which they had left the ferry boat; but it was +quite wide, and it was bordered by broad dikes with avenues of trees +upon them, on either side. On one side, under the trees, was a tow path, +and on the other a broad and smoothly gravelled road. + +Two boats were lying moored to the wharves at the side of the canal. One +was a long, sharp, and narrow steamer, which was going through the whole +length of the canal to the Helder. The other was a trekschuyt, or canal +boat, which was going only a short way, to the nearest village. + +The passengers that came in the ferry boat divided into two parties, as +they came down the dike. One party went to the steamer, the other to the +trekschuyt. Mr. George and Rollo, of course, went with the last. + +The trekschuyt was a curious sort of boat. It was built like the Noah's +ark made for children to play with; that is, it was a broad boat, with a +house in it. The roof of the house, which formed the deck of the boat, +was flat, and there were seats along the sides of it, and a railing +behind them on the margin, to keep people from falling off. At each end +of the house were two flights of steps, leading up to the roof or deck, +and below them another flight, which led down to the little cabins +below. + +As soon as Rollo got on board, he first ran up on the deck. He sat down +on the seat upon one side, and then, after looking about a moment, he +ran over to the other side, and sat down there. Then he got up, and said +that he was going below to look at the cabins. + +Mr. George, all the time, stood quietly on the deck, looking at the +canal, and at the country around. He could see the canal extending, in a +winding direction, across the country; but the view of it was soon lost, +as the winding of its course brought the dikes on the sides of it in the +way so that they concealed the water. He could, however, trace its +course for some distance, by the masts and sails of vessels which he saw +at different distances rising among the green trees. Along the dike, on +one side, was a high road, and on the other, a tow path. Different boats +were coming and going in the part of the canal that was near. They were +drawn by long and slender lines, that were fastened to a tall mast set +up near the bows of the boat. Some were drawn by men, and some by +horses. + +[Illustration: THE TREKSCHUYT.] + +Before the trekschuyt had gone far, after it commenced its voyage, a +great ship was seen coming on the canal. She was coming from the Helder. +It was a ship that had come from the West Indies, and was going to +Amsterdam. The wind was contrary for her, and they could not use their +sails, and so they were drawing her along by horses. There were two +teams of horses, eight in each team. The view of these teams, walking +along the tow path, with the immense ship following them in the canal, +presented a very imposing spectacle. + +The trekschuyt started before the Helder steamer; but it had not gone +far before Rollo, who had now ascended to the deck again, saw her coming +up behind very rapidly. + +"I tell you what it is, uncle George," said he, "I wish you and I were +on board that steamer, and were going along the whole length of the +canal." + +"So do I," said Mr. George. + +"Could not we get on board?" asked Rollo. + +"No," said Mr. George. "We cannot change our plan to-day very well. But +now that we have found the way, we can come over here any morning we +please, and take the Helder steamer." + +"Let's come," said Rollo, eagerly. "Let's come to-morrow." + +"We'll see about that," said Mr. George. "See, here comes a market +boat." + +"Yes," said Rollo. "The man is towing it, and his wife is steering." + +"Now we will see how they pass," said Rollo. + +There was no difficulty about passing, for as soon as the man who was +towing the market boat found that the trekschuyt had come up to his +line, he stopped suddenly, and the advance of his boat caused his line +to drop into the water. The trekschuyt then sailed right over it. By +this simple manoeuvre, boats and vessels could pass each other very +easily, and generally the manoeuvre was executed in a prompt and very +skilful manner. But once, when they were passing a boat, the woman who +was steering it put the helm the wrong way, and though the captain of +the trekschuyt, and also the husband of the woman, who was on the shore, +shouted to her repeatedly in a loud and angry manner, she could not get +it right again in time to avoid a collision. The trekschuyt gave the +boat a dreadful bump as it went by. Fortunately, however, it did no +harm, except to frighten the poor woman, and break their tow line. + +After going on in this way for fifteen or twenty minutes along the +canal, the trekschuyt arrived at its place of destination, and Mr. +George and Rollo disembarked at a little village of very neat and pretty +houses, built along the dike on one side of the canal. + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE DAIRY VILLAGE. + + +Mr. George and Rollo walked ashore in a very independent manner, having +the commissioner to attend to the tickets. They went up to the top of +the dike, and waited for the commissioner to come to them. + +"While I am getting the carriage ready," said the commissioner, when he +came, "perhaps you will like to take a walk on the bridge, where there +is a very fine view. But first, perhaps, you will look at the carriage, +and choose the one that you will like." + +So saying, James led the way into a sort of stable, where there were a +great many very nice and pretty carriages, arranged very snugly +together. Mr. George was surprised to see so many. He asked James how it +happened. + +"O, there is a great deal of travelling on the roads about here," said +James. "The country is very rich and populous, and the people of +Amsterdam come out a great deal." + +Some of the carriages were very elegant. One of these an hostler took +out, and told Mr. George that he could have it if he chose. There was +another which was much less elegant, but it was more open. + +"Let us take the open one," said Rollo. "We can see so much better." + +So they decided upon the open one; and then, while the hostlers were +harnessing the horses, Mr. George and Rollo went forward to the bridge. + +The bridge led over a branch canal, which here comes into the main +canal. The road to it lay along the dike, and formed the street of a +little village. It was paved with bricks placed edgewise, and was as +neat as a parlor floor. The houses were all on one side. They were very +small; but they were so neat and pretty, and the forms of them were so +strange and queer, that they looked like play houses, or like a scene in +fairy land, rather than like the real habitations of men. + +There were pretty gardens by them, which extended down the slope of the +dike. The slopes of the dikes are always very gradual, and very nice +gardens can be made on them. + +Mr. George and Rollo stood on the bridge, and looked up and down the +canals on either side. They saw boats, with people in them, getting +ready to set out on their voyages. + +"I wonder where that canal leads to?" said Rollo. + +"O, it goes off into the interior of the country, some where," said Mr. +George. "The country is as full of canals as Massachusetts is of roads." + +"I should like, very much," said Rollo, "to get on board that boat with +that man, and go with him wherever he is going." + +"So should I, if I knew Dutch," said Mr. George, "so that I could talk +with him as we sailed along." + +"How pretty it is all about here," said Rollo. "What a queer +village,--built on a bank! And what a funny road! It looks like a play +road." + +The road, where it led through the village, did, indeed, present a very +singular appearance. It was very narrow indeed, being barely wide enough +for one carriage to pass, and leaving scarcely room on the side for a +child to crowd up against the house, and let it go by. On the other side +was a row of trees, with green grass beneath, covering the banks of the +canal. + +After Mr. George and Rollo had been standing a few minutes on the bridge +they saw that the carriage was nearly ready. So they went back to the +place and got in. The top of the carriage was turned entirely down, so +that they could see about them in every direction as they rode along. +James mounted on the box outside, with the driver. + +"Now," said Rollo, in a tone of great satisfaction, "we will have a very +first rate ride." + +The carriage drove along through the little street, which has already +been described. Rollo could reach his hand out and almost touch the +houses as they rode by. There were little shops kept in some of the +houses, and the things that were for sale were put up at the windows. +They looked exactly as if children had arranged them for play. + +After leaving the village the road turned and followed the dike of a +branch canal. The views on every side were extremely beautiful. The +canal was carried along between its two banks, high above the rest of +the country, and here and there, at moderate distances from each other, +wind mills were to be seen busy at work pumping up water from the drains +in the fields, and pouring it into the canal. The fields were covered +with herds of cattle and flocks of sheep, and here and there were +parties of men mowing the grass or loading the new-made hay into boats, +that lay floating in the small canals which bordered the fields. + +In looking about over the country, there were wind mills to be seen in +all directions, their long arms slowly revolving in the air, and +interspersed among them were the masts and sails of sloops and +schooners, that were sailing to and fro along the canals. As the water +of these canals was often hidden from view by the dikes which bordered +them, it seemed as if the ships and steamers were sailing on the land in +the midst of green fields and trees, and smiling villages. + +After going on in this way for an hour or more, the carriage approached +the village which Mr. George and Rollo were going to see. The village +lay on the borders of a canal, which was here quite broad, and as the +road approached it on the other side of the canal, it was in full view +for Mr. George and Rollo as the party approached it. The houses were +close to the margin of the water. They were very neat and pretty, and +were, most of them, painted green. Many of them had little canals by the +side of them, like lanes of water leading into the rear of the houses, +and the prettiest little porticoes, and trellises, and piazzas, and +pavilions, and summer houses were seen in every part. The road went +winding round a wide basin, and then, after crossing a bridge, the +carriage stopped at an inn. + +The inn was entirely outside of the village. The commissioner said that +they must walk through the village, for there was no carriage road +through it at all. + +So Mr. George and Rollo dismounted, and the hostlers came out from the +stable to unharness the horses. + +"Now, Rollo," said Mr. George, "we will go in and order a breakfast, and +then we will take our walk through the village while it is getting +ready." + +"Yes," said Rollo. "I should like some breakfast very much." + +"What shall we have?" asked Mr. George. + +"What you like," replied Rollo. "You always get good breakfasts." + +"Well," said Mr. George, "we will tell them the old story." + +Just at this moment James came up to the door of the hotel where Mr. +George and Rollo had been standing during this conversation. + +"You may order breakfast for us, James," said Mr. George, "and let them +have it ready for us when we get back from our walk." + +"Yes, sir," said James. "And what will you have?" + +"_Biftek aux pommes_,"[8] said Mr. George, "and coffee. And let them +give us some of their best cheese." + +[Footnote 8: Pronounced _biftek-o-pom_. This is a very favorite +breakfast in France, and every where, in fact, throughout Europe. Mr. +George liked it better than any thing else, not only for his breakfast, +but also for his dinner. It consists of very tender beefsteaks, +deliciously seasoned, and accompanied with sliced potatoes, fried in a +peculiar manner, and arranged all around the margin of the dish.] + +The commissioner went in to give the order. + +"Uncle George," said Rollo, "I think you'll be known all through this +country as the beefsteak and fried potato man." + +Mr. George laughed. + +"Well," said he. "There could not be a more agreeable idea than that to +be associated with my memory." + +The truth is, that both Mr. George and Rollo liked the _biftek aux +pommes_ better than almost any thing else that they could have, whether +for breakfast or dinner. + +After having given the order for the breakfast to a very nice and +tidy-looking Dutch girl, whose forehead and temples were adorned with a +profusion of golden ornaments, after the fashion of the young women of +North Holland, the commissioner came back, and the whole party set out +to walk through the village. There were no streets, properly so called, +but only walks, about as wide as the gravel walks of a garden, which +meandered about among the houses and yards, in a most extraordinary +manner. There were beautiful views, from time to time, presented over +the water of the canal on which the village was situated; and there were +a great number of small canals which seemed to penetrate every where, +with the prettiest little bridges over them, and landing steps, and +bowers, and pavilions along the borders of them, and gayly-painted boats +fastened at kitchen doors, and a thousand other such-like objects, +characteristic of the intimate intermingling of land and water which +prevails in this extraordinary country. + +[Illustration: THE DAIRY VILLAGE.] + +Every thing was, however, on so small a scale, and so scrupulously neat +and pretty, that it looked more like a toy village than one built for +the every-day residence of real men. + +After walking on for about a quarter of a mile, the commissioner said +that he would show them the interior of one of the dairy houses, where +the cheeses were made,--for the business of this town was the making of +cheeses from the milk of the cows that feed on the green polders that +lie all around them. + +"The stalls for the cows," said James, "are in the same house in which +the family lives; but the cows are not kept there in summer, and so we +shall find the stalls empty." + +So saying, James turned aside up a little paved walk which led to the +door of a very pretty looking house. He opened the door without any +ceremony, and Mr. George and Rollo went in. + +The door was near one end of the house, and it opened into a passage way +which extended back through the whole depth of it. On one side was a +row of stalls, or cribs, for the cows. On the other, were doors opening +into the rooms used for the family. A very nice looking Dutch woman, who +had apparently seen the party from her window, came out through this +side door into the passage way, to welcome them when they came. + +The stalls for the cows were all beautifully made, and they were painted +and decorated in such an extraordinary manner, that no one could have +imagined for what use they were intended. The floors for them were made +of the glazed tiles so often used in Holland, and the partitions between +them were nicely rubbed as bright as a lady's sideboard. The cribs, too, +were now, in the absence of the cows, occupied with various little +_etageres_, and sets of shelves, which were covered with fancy cups and +saucers, china images, and curiosities of all sorts,--the Dutch +housewives taking a special pride in the collection of such things. + +The row of cribs was separated from the floor of the passage way by a +sort of trench, about a foot and a half wide and ten inches deep, and +outside this trench, and also within it, at the entrances to the cribs, +were arrayed a great number of utensils employed in the work of the +dairy, such as tubs, cans, cheese presses, moulds, and other such +things. These were all beautifully made, and being mounted with brass, +which had received the highest polish by constant rubbing, they gave to +the whole aspect of the place an exceedingly gay and brilliant +appearance. + +Some of this apparatus was in use. There were tubs standing, with the +curd or whey in them, and cheeses in press or in pickle, and various +other indications that the establishment was a genuine one, and was then +in active operation. The cheeses were of the round kind, so often seen +for sale at the grocers' stores in Boston and New York. They looked like +so many big cannon balls. + +After walking down the passage way that led by the side of cribs, and +examining all these things in detail, the party returned to the door +where they had come in, and then, turning to the left, went into the +rooms of the house. The first room was the bedroom. The second was the +parlor. These rooms were both completely crowded with antique looking +furniture, among which were cabinets of Chinese ware, and ornaments of +every kind; and all was in such a brilliant condition of nicety and +polish, as made the spectacle wonderful to behold. + +The bed was in a recess, shut up by doors. When the doors were opened +the bed place looked precisely like a berth on board ship. + +After looking at all these things as long as they wished, Mr. George and +Rollo bade the woman good by, and James gave her half a guilder. The +party then withdrew. + +"Well, uncle George," said Rollo, "and what do you think of that?" + +"I think it is a very extraordinary spectacle," said Mr. George. "And it +is very curious to think how such a state of things has come about." + +"And how has it come about?" asked Rollo. + +"Why, here," replied Mr. George, "for a thousand years, for aught I +know, the people have been living from generation to generation with no +other employment than taking care of the cows that feed on the polders +around, and making the milk into cheese. That is a business which +requires neatness. Every kind of dairy business does. So that here is a +place where a current was set towards neatness a thousand years ago, and +it has been running ever since, and this is what it has come to." + +Talking in this manner of what they had seen, Mr. George and Rollo +returned to the inn, and there they found an excellent breakfast. They +were waited upon at the table by the young woman who had so many golden +ornaments in her hair; and besides the _biftek aux pommes_, and the +coffee, and the hot milk, and the nice butter, there was the half of one +of the round cheeses, such as they had seen in process of making at the +dairy. + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +CONCLUSION. + + +After finishing their breakfast, Mr. George and Rollo entered the +carriage again, and returned by the same way that they came, for some +miles towards Amsterdam, until they came to the place where the road +turned off to go to Saandam. After proceeding for some distance upon one +of the inland dikes, they came at length to the margin of the sea, and +then for several miles the road lay along the great sea dike, which here +defends the land from the ingress of the ocean. + +"Ah," said Mr. George, as soon as they entered upon this portion of the +road, "here we come to one of the great sea dikes. How glad I am." + +"So am I," said Rollo. "I wanted to see one of the sea dikes." + +"It is very much like the others," said Mr. George, "only it is much +larger." + +"Yes," said Rollo, "and see how it winds about along the shore." + +In looking forward in the direction in which Rollo pointed, the dike +could be traced for a long distance in its course, like an immense +railroad embankment, winding in and out in a most remarkable manner, in +conformity to the indentations of the shore. In one respect it differed +from a railroad embankment, namely, in being bordered and overshadowed +by avenues of immense trees, which showed how many ages ago the dike had +been built. There is not a railroad embankment in the world that has +been built long enough for such immense trees to have had time to grow. + +The carriage road lay along the top of the dike, which was very broad, +and the slopes of it, towards the water on one side, and towards the low +meadow lands on the other, were very gradual. Men were at work every +where along these slopes, cutting the second crop of grass, and making +it into hay. Where the hay was ready to be got in, the men were at work +loading it into boats that lay in the little canals that extend along +the sides of the dike at the foot of the slopes. + +Wind mills were to be seen every where, all about the horizon. As the +road approached Saandam, these mills became more and more numerous. + +"I mean to see if I can count them," said Rollo. + +"You cannot count them, I am sure," said Mr. George. + +Rollo began; but when he got up to a hundred, he gave up the undertaking +in despair. Mr. George told him that he read in the guide book that +there were four thousand wind mills in that region. + +Some of these wind mills were very small indeed; and there were two or +three which looked so "cunning," as Rollo said, that he wished very much +that he had one of them to take with him to America. + +The use of these very small wind mills was to pump up the water from +some very limited tract of land, which, for some reason or other, +happened to lie a few inches lower than the rest. + +At last, after an infinite number of turnings and windings, by means of +which every part of the surrounding country was brought in succession +into view before Mr. George and Rollo as they sat in their carriage, +they arrived at the town of Saandam. + +The town consists of two streets, one on each embankment of a great +canal. The streets are closely built up for many miles along the canal, +but the town does not extend laterally at all, on account of the ground +falling off immediately to very low polders. + +[Illustration: CABIN OF PETER THE GREAT.] + +After entering the street the commissioner left the carriage, in order +that the horses might rest, and led Mr. George and Rollo on a walk +through the prettiest part of the town. They walked about half a mile +along the canal on one side, and then, crossing by a ferry, they came +back on the other side. + +In the course of this walk they went to see the hut where Peter the +Great lived while he was in Holland engaged in studying ship building in +the ship yards of Saandam. The hut itself was old and dilapidated; but +it was covered and protected by a good, substantial building of brick, +with open arches all around, which allowed the hut to be seen, while the +roof and walls of the building protected it from the rain. The hut was +situated in a very pretty little garden. + +There were two rooms in the hut, and one of them--the one shown in the +engraving--had a very curious-looking Dutch fireplace in one corner of +it, and a ladder to go up to the loft above. The chairs were very +curious indeed; the seats being three-cornered, and the back and arms +being constructed in a very singular manner. + +The walls of the rooms were perfectly covered, in every part, with the +names of visitors, who had come from all countries to see the rooms. +Besides these, there were a great many volumes of books filled with +names. These books lay on a great table, which stood at one side of the +room. There was one of the books which was not yet full, and this one +lay open on the table, with a pen and ink near it, in order that fresh +visitors, as fast as they came, might enter their names. + +After looking at this cabin as long as they wished, and entering their +names in the book, Mr. George and Rollo left the hut and returned +through one of the main streets of the town to the place where they had +left their carriage. The carriage was soon ready for them, and they set +out to go back to Amsterdam. + +They had a delightful drive back, going as they came, on the top of the +great sea dike. On one side they could look off over a wide expanse of +water, with boats, and steamers, and ships moving to and fro in every +direction over it. On the other side they overlooked a still wider +expanse of low and level green fields, intersected every where with +canals of water and avenues of trees, and with a perfect forest of wind +mills in the horizon. + + * * * * * + +As they were riding quietly along upon this dike on the return to +Amsterdam, Rollo had the opportunity of imparting to Mr. George some +valuable information in respect to Peter the Great. + +"I am glad that I have had an opportunity to see the workshop of Peter +the Great," said Mr. George. "It is very curious indeed. But I don't +know much about Peter the Great. The first opportunity I get I mean to +read an account of his life, and I advise you to do the same." + +"I have read about him," said Rollo. "I found a book about him in a +steamboat that we came in, and I read all about his coming to Holland." + +"Then tell me about it," said Mr. George. + +"Why, you see," said Rollo, "he was at war with the Turks, and he fought +them and drove them off to the southward, until at last he came to the +Sea of Asoph. Then he could not fight them any more, unless he could get +some ships. So he made a law for all the great boyars of his kingdom, +that every one of them must build or buy him a ship. What are boyars, +uncle George?" + +"Nobles," said Mr. George. + +"I thought it must be something like that," replied Rollo. + +"The old nobility of those Russian countries are called boyars," said +Mr. George; "but I don't know why. Most of the common people are slaves +to them." + +"Well, at any rate," said Rollo, "he made a law that every one of them, +or at least all that were rich enough, should build or buy him a ship; +but they did not know how to build ships themselves, and so they were +obliged to send to Holland for ship builders. They built more and better +ships in Holland in those days than in any country in the world." + +"Yes, I suppose so," said Mr. George. + +"The boyars did not like it very well to be obliged to build these +ships," continued Rollo. "And there was another thing that they disliked +still more." + +"What was that?" asked Mr. George. + +"Why, the emperor made them send off their sons to be educated in +different foreign countries," replied Rollo. "You see, in those days +Russia was very little civilized, and Peter concluded that it would help +to introduce civilization into the country, if the sons of the principal +men went to other great cities for some years, to study sciences and +arts. So he sent some of them to Paris, and some to Berlin, and some to +Amsterdam, and some to Rome. But most of them did not like to go." + +"That's strange," said Mr. George. "I should have thought they would +have liked to go very much." + +"At least their fathers did not like to send them," said Rollo; "perhaps +on account of the expense; and some of the young men did not like to +go. There was one that was sent to Venice, in order that he might see +and learn every thing that he could there, that would be of advantage to +his own country; but he was so cross about it that when he got to Venice +he shut himself up in his house, and declared that he would not see or +learn any thing at all." + +"He was a very foolish fellow, I think," said Mr. George. + +"Yes," said Rollo, "I think he was. But I've seen boys in school act +just so. They get put out with the teacher for something or other, and +then they won't try to understand the lesson." + +"That is punishing themselves, and not the teacher," said Mr. George. +"But go on about Peter." + +"After a while," continued Rollo, "Peter concluded to make a journey +himself. His plan was to go to all the most civilized countries, and +into all the finest cities in Europe, and see what he could learn that +would be of use in his own dominions. So he fitted out a grand +expedition. He took a number of ambassadors, and generals, and great +potentates of all kinds with him. These men were dressed in splendid +uniforms, and travelled in great state, and had grand receptions in all +the great towns that they came to. But Peter himself did nothing of the +kind. He dressed plainly, like a common man, so that wherever he went +he could ramble about at liberty, and see what he wanted to see in peace +and quietness, while all the people were running after the procession of +ambassadors and grandees." + +"That was a good plan," said Mr. George. + +"An excellent plan," rejoined Rollo. "In some of the seaports that he +visited, he used to put on a sort of a pea jacket, such as the Dutch +skippers wore, and go about in that, along the wharves and docks, and +look at all the shipping. + +"But he was most interested in going to Holland," continued Rollo, "for +that was the country where they built the best ships. Besides, the first +vessel that he ever saw happened to be a Dutch vessel. I forgot to tell +you about that." + +"Yes," replied Mr. George, "tell me now." + +"Why, it was some years before this time," said Rollo,--"two or three I +believe,--that he first saw a vessel. There was a country place with a +handsome house and pleasure grounds, belonging to the royal family. I +forget what the name of it was. But that is no matter. One time, after +Peter came to the throne, he went out to this country place to spend a +few days. He found on the grounds a sort of artificial winding canal or +pond, with pretty trees on the banks of it. On this canal was a yacht, +which had been built in Holland and brought there, for the people to +sail in when they came to that palace. The yacht had not been used much, +and was lying neglected at the wharf. But Peter immediately had it put +in order, and took a sail in it, and he liked it very much indeed." + +"Was it the first vessel that he ever saw?" asked Mr. George. + +"Yes," said Rollo, "I believe it was; or at least it was the first that +he ever particularly noticed. He liked sailing in it, and then, besides, +there was one of his officers there, who had travelled in other +countries in Europe where people had ships and navies, and he told Peter +what great advantages they gained from them, not only in carrying goods +from place to place, but in transporting armies, and fighting their +enemies at sea. + +"Peter thought a great deal about this, and when he went back to Moscow, +which was then the capital, he inquired and found that there were some +people from Holland there. He asked them if they knew how to build +ships. Some of them said they did. Then he asked them if they could not +build him some small vessels, just like the Dutch ships of war. They +said they could. So he made a bargain with them, and they built him +several. + +"Do you know how many?" asked Mr. George. + +"Not exactly," replied Rollo. "There were several small vessels, and I +remember that there were four frigates, and each frigate had four guns. +I don't suppose the guns were very large." + +"Four guns is a very small armament for a frigate," said Mr. George. + +"Yes," replied Rollo, "very small indeed. But you see, Peter did not +want them for real service, but only for models, as it were." + +"And what did he do with them, when they were done?" asked Mr. George. + +"They were launched into a lake there was in that part of the country," +said Rollo, "and there the emperor used to sail about in them, and have +sham fights. + +"But all this, you must understand," continued Rollo, "took place two or +three years before Peter drove the Turks off from the southern part of +his empire, so as to get to the sea. And it was not till then that he +began to have real ships built of large size. And now, when he was going +to Holland, he of course remembered the old Dutch yacht which he had on +his pleasure grounds, and the small frigates which they had built him, +and the large ones too, which they had built for the boyars, and he felt +a great interest in going to see the ship yards. He determined that +while he was in Holland he would spend as much time as he could in +learning all about ship building. + +"It is very curious about the emperor and his company's entering +Amsterdam," continued Rollo. "When the government there heard that he +was coming, they made grand preparations to receive him. They got the +cannon all ready on the ramparts to fire salutes, and drew out the +soldiers, and all the doors and windows were crowded with spectators. +They prepared a great number of illuminations, too, and fireworks, for +the night. But just before the party arrived at Amsterdam, the emperor +slipped away in a plain dress, and left the ambassadors, and generals, +and grandees to go in by themselves. The people of Amsterdam did not +know this. They supposed that some one or other of the people dressed so +splendidly, in the procession, was Peter; and so they shouted, and waved +their flags and their handkerchiefs, and fired the cannon, and made a +great parade generally." + +"And Peter himself was not there at all?" said Mr. George. + +"No," said Rollo. "He slipped away, and came in privately with a few +merchants to accompany him. And instead of going to the great palace +which the government of Amsterdam had provided and fitted up for him, he +left that to his ambassadors, and went himself to a small house, by a +ship yard, where he could be at liberty, and go and come when he +pleased." + +"And afterwards, I suppose he went to Saandam," said Mr. George. + +"Yes, sir," replied Rollo. "Saandam was a great place for building ships +in those days. They say that while he was there, he went to work +regularly, like a ship carpenter, as if he wished to learn the trade +himself. But I don't believe he worked a great deal." + +"No," said Mr. George. "I presume he did not. He probably took the +character and dress of a workman chiefly for the purpose of making +himself more at home in the ship yards and about the wharves. Indeed, I +can't see what useful end could be gained by his learning to do work +himself. He could not expect to build ships himself when he should +return to Russia." + +"No," said Rollo. "I expect he wanted to see exactly how the ships were +built, and how the yards were managed, and he thought he could do this +better if he went among the workmen as one of their number." + +"I presume so," said Mr. George. "I am very glad you found the book, and +I am much obliged to you for all this information." + +Soon after this Mr. George and Rollo arrived safely at Amsterdam. + + * * * * * + +Rollo and Mr. George remained, after this, some days in Amsterdam; and +they were very much entertained with what they saw there in the streets, +and with the curious manners and customs of the people. + + + * * * * * + + +PUBLICATIONS OF + +BROWN, TAGGARD & CHASE, + +SUCCESSORS TO + +W. J. REYNOLDS & CO., No. 24 Cornhill, Boston. + +ROLLO'S TOUR IN EUROPE: + +BEING A NEW SERIES OF + +ROLLO BOOKS, + +BY REV. JACOB ABBOTT. + +IN SIX VOLUMES, BEAUTIFULLY ILLUSTRATED. + +_Extract from the Preface._ + +In this series of narratives we offer to the readers of the Rollo Books +a continuation of the history of our little hero, by giving them an +account of the adventures which such a boy may be expected to meet with +in making a tour of Europe. The books are intended to be books of +instruction rather than of mere amusement; and, in perusing them, the +reader may feel assured that all the information which they contain, not +only in respect to the countries visited, but to the customs, usages, +and modes of life that are described, and also in regard to the general +character of the incidents and adventures that the young travellers meet +with, is in most strict accordance with fact. The main design of the +narratives is, thus, the communication of useful knowledge; and +everything which they contain, except what is strictly personal, in +relation to the actors in the story, may be depended upon as exactly and +scrupulously true. + +_Notices of the Press._ + +We know of no books that are so eagerly sought for by good boys and +girls as Mr. Abbott's new series of "Rollo Books."--_Hartford Christian +Secretary._ + +Mr. Abbott has a singularly successful faculty of conveying instruction +with entertainment, and of interesting all classes of readers, but more +particularly the young. All will say that the more we have of such +useful and pleasant volumes the better.--_Salem Register._ + +They give excellent lessons in Geography and History, in the most +pleasing forms. They are beautifully printed, and illustrated with fine +engravings.--_New Haven Palladium._ + +There is no wonder that the "Rollo Books" are so extremely popular, for +we doubt if many of us "children of a larger growth" can escape their +fascination.--_Salem Observer._ + +A careful perusal of the volume under notice (Switzerland) will give the +young reader not only as good a geographical knowledge of the country it +describes as would be obtained at a term at school, but will acquaint +him with the habits, manners, and characteristics of the people of +Switzerland.--_American Citizen_. + +No living man is his equal in story-telling for the young, and the book +will find its way into thousands of homes.--_Hartford Republican._ + +They contain a great deal of useful information, conveyed in a most +pleasing and interesting manner.--_Boston Post._ + +Written by one who has made the tour through which he carries his young +hero, and who, from long experience, knows how to please and instruct +his young readers, these volumes possess just the qualities to attract +those for whom they are intended.--_Norfolk Co. Journal._ + +The author has admirably combined the pleasing with the instructive, so +that while the youthful reader is charmed by the narrative, he also +gains valuable information with regard to those far-off places famed in +story and song.--_Boston Olive Branch._ + +A correspondent of the New York _National Magazine_ says;--"The volumes +are beautifully illustrated, and written in the charming and instructive +style of the author. We saw one of our New England governors, lately +returned from a European tour, quite absorbed in the volume upon Paris, +while travelling in a railway car, a short time since." + + * * * * * + +CUSHING'S MANUAL. + +Price 38 cents. + +NOTICES OF A NEW WORK ON PARLIAMENTARY RULES, + +By LUTHER S. CUSHING, + +TWELVE YEARS CLERK OF THE MASSACHUSETTS HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES. + +_From S. H. Walley, late Speaker of the Massachusetts House of +Representatives._ + +I have taken great pleasure in examining the pages of this work, and do +not hesitate to express most fully my approbation of its plan and +execution. + +On two or three questions of minor importance, I might come to different +conclusions from the author;--but, inasmuch as he has devoted much time +to a careful research into the subject of parliamentary rules and +practice, I am free to admit, that I should feel great distrust in any +opinions which I have held, even on these questions, where they differ +from those expressed by Judge Cushing, without very careful +reexamination and study. + +This Manual is much needed. There is no work, in this country, which is +adapted near as well, in my judgment, to assist those who are called +upon to preside in public assemblies, to discharge their duties +acceptably and profitably to the community. + +I sincerely hope and believe that this publication will receive the +countenance and approbation to which it seems to me so justly entitled. + + * * * * * + +_From the Law Reporter, Edited by Peleg W. Chandler, Esq._ + +Hon. Luther S. Cushing has prepared for the press a new Manual of +Parliamentary Practice. Having examined the manuscript of this work with +considerable care, we take occasion to say, that it will be a valuable +accession to the libraries of those who are called upon to preside in +deliberative assemblies; and we believe the necessity of such a work as +this has been very generally felt in our country where almost every +citizen is occasionally called upon to exercise the duties of a +presiding officer. The work is founded upon the well-established rules +and customs of the British Parliament, and Mr. Cushing divests himself +of all local usages prevailing in different parts of this country; +maintaining in the outset, that no assembly can ever be subject to any +other rules than those which are of general application, or which it +specially adopts for its own government; and denying explicitly that the +rules adopted and practised upon by a legislative assembly thereby +acquire the character of general laws. + + +PUBLISHED BY + +BROWN, TAGGARD & CHASE, + +(SUCCESSORS TO W. J. REYNOLDS & CO.,) + +NO. 24 CORNHILL + +FOR SALE BY ALL BOOKSELLERS. + + * * * * * + +THE COLUMBIAN GLEE BOOK. + +OR, MUSIC FOR THE MILLION. + +IN THREE PARTS. + +_Part I.--Comprising the largest number of choice Glees, Quartets, +Trios, Songs, Opera Choruses, &c., ever before published in one +Collection._ + +_Part II.--Consisting of Sacred Anthems, Choruses, Quartets, &c., for +Select Societies and Concerts._ + +_Part III.--Containing most of the old popular Continental Psalm Tunes._ + +Thus making the most complete collection, in all its features, ever +before published. + +By I. B. WOODBURY, author of the "Dulcimer," "The Cythara," &c. &c. + +_Extract from the Preface._ + +Here may be found Glees, Quartets, Trios and Songs, suited to every +occasion. If merry, here are pieces that will add to merriment; if sad, +harmonies that will soothe sadness. If longing for home fill the mind, +the dear scenes that cluster there are painted in many a song. Requiems +to the loved departed are also here. Indeed, almost every scene to which +the chequered life of man is subject is here made the refrain of song. +For the Sabbath eve, when + + "Softly fades the twilight ray + Of the holy Sabbath day," + +and when music is particularly acceptable, the old tunes our fathers +sang may be found in Part III. Part II. is somewhat more elaborate, and +adapted to Sacred Concerts. That the book may tend to make man happier +and better is the sincere desire of the author. + + * * * * * + +THE AMERICAN VOCALIST. + +A SELECTION OF TUNES, ANTHEMS, SENTENCES AND HYMNS, + +_Old and new. Designed for the Church, the Vestry, or the Parlor._ + +Adapted to every variety of metre in common use, and appropriate to +every occasion where God is worshipped and men are blessed. From the +compositions of Billings, Holden, Maxim, Edson, Holyoke, Read, Kimball, +Morgan, Wood, Swan, &c. &c., and eminent American authors now living, as +well as from distinguished European composers. Embracing a greater +variety of Music for Congregations, Societies, Singing Schools, and +Choirs, than any other collection extant. + +IN THREE PARTS. BY REV. D. H. MANSFIELD. + +The publishers have received, _unsolicited_, the highest recommendations +from gentlemen of musical education; and they respectfully call the +attention of leaders of choirs and teachers of singing schools +throughout New England, to this work, before purchasing their books for +fall and winter schools. Nearly one hundred thousand copies have been +sold since it was first published. + + * * * * * + +THE CYTHARA. + +A NEW AND EXTENSIVE COLLECTION OF SACRED MUSIC. + +Comprising PSALM AND HYMN TUNES, of every variety and metre, ANTHEMS, +CHANTS, AN ORATORIO, SET PIECES, ETC. + +BY I. B. WOODBURY. + +Author of the "Dulcimer," of which more than 140,000 copies have been +sold. + +Mr. Woodbury's long residence in Europe, and his intimate acquaintance +with the music and musical people of every section of our country, their +wants and predilections, have imparted to him advantages hardly +vouchsafed to any other man. To these qualifications he brings the vigor +and elasticity of early manhood, and, after years of untiring and +energetic devotion to this one subject, he has produced a volume of +Sacred Music, rich in melody, chaste and harmonious in composition, +simple in arrangement, and thoroughly adapted to the wants of his own +country. + + +B. T. & C. have for sale _all the Music Books_ published. Traders, +Teachers, and others supplied at the lowest cash price. + + * * * * * + +COLBURN'S FIRST LESSONS. Intellectual Arithmetic, upon the Inductive +Method of Instruction. By Warren Colburn. + +"Colburn's First Lessons, the only faultiest school book that we have, +has made a great change in the mode of teaching Arithmetic, and is +destined to make a still greater. It should be made the basis of +instruction in this department."--_From the School and Schoolmaster._ + +"Warren Colburn's First Lessons has had many imitators, but no +equals."--_From the Massachusetts Common School Journal for April, +1852._ + +"I have always considered Colburn's First Lessons in Arithmetic the most +valuable school book that has made its appearance in this country. +Constant use of it for more than twelve years has entirely confirmed my +opinion.--_George B. Emerson._ + +"I have no hesitation in saying that this book is not only the best in +this country, but, so far as my information extends, _the best in the +world_."--_Thomas Sherwin, Esq., of the Boston High School._ + + * * * * * + +WORCESTER'S HISTORY. Elements of History, Ancient and Modern. By J. E. +WORCESTER, LL.D. A new edition, brought down to the Present Time, and +printed from entirely new stereotype plates. 438 pp. + +Worcester's History has for many years occupied a high place among text +books. The new edition, being printed from entirely new stereotype +plates, is a great improvement upon former editions. Applicants for +admission into the Freshman class at Harvard College are examined in +this book. + + * * * * * + +SMELLIE'S PHILOSOPHY. The Philosophy of Natural History. By WM. SMELLIE. +With an Introduction and Addition by Dr. John Ware, of Cambridge, Mass. +12mo, 360 pp. + +Smellie's Philosophy is a valuable book for High Schools and Academies, +and is used extensively in every part of the country. + + * * * * * + +NORTHEND'S BOOK KEEPING. The Common School Book Keeping; being a simple +and practical system, by Single Entry. Designed for the use of Public +Schools, and adapted to the wants of Mechanics, Farmers, and Retail +Merchants; containing various forms of Notes, Receipts, Orders, Bills, +and other useful matter; in two books, a Day-book and Ledger. By Charles +Northend, author of "National Writing Book," "National Speaker," etc. + +In preparing this system the author has endeavored to make a plain, +practical, and _economical_ work, suited to the wants of common schools +and retail merchants in every department of business. + + * * * * * + +CUSHING'S MANUAL. Rules of Proceeding and Debate in Deliberative +Assemblies. By Luther S. Cushing, for twelve years Clerk of +Massachusetts House of Representatives. + + * * * * * + +BENTLEY'S PICTORIAL PRIMER. For beginners. One of the most beautiful +school books published. + +Copies of all the above book will be sent to school committees, for +examination, on application. + + * * * * * + +MY UNCLE TOBY'S LIBRARY, + +By FRANCIS FORRESTER, Esq., + +Consists of TWELVE VOLUMES, elegantly bound, and Illustrated with +upwards of SIXTY BEAUTIFUL ENGRAVINGS. + + 1. _Arthur Ellerslie_, or The Brave Boy. + 2. _Redbrook_, or Who'll buy my Watercresses? + 3. _Minnie Brown_, or The Gentle Girl. + 4. _Ralph Ratler_, or The Mischief Maker. + 5. _Arthur's Temptation_, or The Lost Goblet. + 6. _Aunt Amy_, or How Minnie Brown Learned to be a Sunbeam. + 7. _The Runaway_, or Punishment of Pride. + 8. _Fretful Lillia_, or The Girl who was compared to a Sting-nettle. + 9. _Minnie's Pic-nic_, or a Day in the Woods. + 10. _Cousin Nelly_, or The Pleasant Visit. + 11. _Minnie's Playroom_, or how to Play Calisthenica. + 12. _Arthur's Triumph_, or Goodness Rewarded. + +The books are so written that, while each number is a complete story in +itself, there is, nevertheless, a connection between the whole series. + + * * * * * + +In addition to their own publications, B. 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