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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 01:54:43 -0700 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 01:54:43 -0700 |
| commit | f8af030928fc41c3b411a5fc01e51cd37a38adfa (patch) | |
| tree | f106ec6272f9d0a2ad58471aa5301e4248ada191 | |
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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/22832-8.txt b/22832-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..81e1d7a --- /dev/null +++ b/22832-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4505 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Cathedral Church of Canterbury [2nd +ed.]., by Hartley Withers + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Cathedral Church of Canterbury [2nd ed.]. + +Author: Hartley Withers + +Release Date: October 2, 2007 [EBook #22832] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF CANTERBURY *** + + + + +Produced by Jonathan Ingram, Anne Storer and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +[Illustration: CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL FROM THE SOUTH.] + + + + + THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF + CANTERBURY + + A DESCRIPTION OF ITS FABRIC + AND A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE + ARCHIEPISCOPAL SEE + + BY HARTLEY WITHERS, B.A. + + [Illustration: Arms of Canterbury.] + + LONDON GEORGE BELL & SONS 1897 + + + _First Edition December, 1896._ +_Second Edition, Revised, with many Additional Illustrations, May, 1897._ + + * * * * * + + + + +GENERAL PREFACE. + + +This series of monographs has been planned to supply visitors to the great +English Cathedrals with accurate and well illustrated guide books at a +popular price. The aim of each writer has been to produce a work compiled +with sufficient knowledge and scholarship to be of value to the student of +archæology and history, and yet not too technical in language for the use +of an ordinary visitor or tourist. + +To specify all the authorities which have been made use of in each case +would be difficult and tedious in this place. But amongst the general +sources of information which have been almost invariably found useful +are:--firstly, the great county histories, the value of which, especially +in questions of genealogy and local records, is generally recognized; +secondly, the numerous papers by experts which appear from time to time in +the transactions of the antiquarian and archæological societies; thirdly, +the important documents made accessible in the series issued by the Master +of the Rolls; fourthly, the well-known works of Britton and Willis on the +English Cathedrals; and, lastly, the very excellent series of Handbooks to +the Cathedrals, originated by the late Mr. John Murray, to which the +reader may in most cases be referred for fuller detail, especially in +reference to the histories of the respective sees. + + GLEESON WHITE. + E.F. STRANGE. + _Editors of the Series._ + + * * * * * + + + + +PREFACE. + + +Among authorities consulted in the preparation of this volume, the author +desires to name specially Prof. Willis's "Architectural History of +Canterbury Cathedral" (1845), Dean Stanley's "Historical Memorials of +Canterbury" (Murray, 1855, and fifth edition, 1868), "Canterbury," by the +Rev. R.C. Jenkins (1880), and the excellent section devoted to Canterbury +in Murray's "Handbooks to the English Cathedrals, Southern Division," +wherein Mr. Richard John King brought together so much valuable matter, +to which reference has been made too often to be acknowledged in each +instance. For permission to use this the publishers have to thank Mr. John +Murray. + +For the reproduction of the drawings of the various parts of the +Cathedral, and the arms on the title page, by Mr. Walter Tallent Owen, +the editors are greatly indebted to the artist, from whose volume, "Bits +of Canterbury Cathedral," published by W.T. Comstock, New York, 1891, they +have been taken. Others are taken from Charles Wild's "Specimens of +Mediæval Architecture," and from Carter's "Ancient Sculpture and +Paintings." + +The illustrations from photographs in this volume have been reproduced +from the originals by Messrs. Carl Norman and Co. + + H.W. + + * * * * * + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + PAGE +CHAPTER I.--History of the Building 3 + +CHAPTER II.--Exterior and Precincts: + The Angel or Bell Tower 24 + The Monastery 32 + Christchurch Gate 35 + Ruins of the Infirmary 38 + The Treasury 38 + The Lavatory Tower 40 + The Chapter House 42 + The Library 44 + The Deanery 44 + The Green Court 48 + +CHAPTER III.--Interior: + The Nave 52 + The Central Tower 55 + The Western Screen 56 + The Choir 57 + The Altar 61 + The Choir 64 + The Choir Stalls 65 + South-East Transept 67 + South-West Choir Aisle 69 + St. Anselm's Tower and Chapel 69 + The Watching Chamber 72 + Trinity Chapel 72 + Tomb of the Black Prince 75 + Becket's Crown 88 + St. Andrew's Tower 90 + North-East Transept 90 + Chapel of the Martyrdom 92 + The Dean's Chapel 94 + South-West Transept 95 + St. Michael's Chapel 95 + The Main Crypt 96 + The Eastern Crypt 101 + +CHAPTER IV.--The History of the See 103 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS. + + + PAGE +The Cathedral from the South _Frontispiece_ +Arms of Canterbury _Title_ +The Cathedral from the North 1 +Plan of Canterbury Cathedral (_Circa 1165_) 4 +The Cloisters 19 +View on the Stour 22 +The Central Tower, "Bell Harry" 25 +Detail of St. Anselm's Tower 32 +The Christchurch Gate 33 +The South-West Porch of the Cathedral 36 +Cloisters of the Monks' Infirmary 37 +Ruins of the Monks' Infirmary 38 +The Baptistery Tower 39 +Turret of South-West Transept 41 +The Cloisters 43 +Norman Staircase in the Close 45 +Details of the Norman Staircase in the Close 46 +Details of Ornament 47 +Old Painting, "The Murder of St. Thomas à Becket" 51 +The Shrine of St. Thomas à Becket (from the Cottonian MS.) 52 +Capitals of Columns in the Eastern Apse 54 +The Choir--looking East 59 + Do. before Restoration 62 +A Miserere in the Choir 65 +Some Mosaics from the Floor of Trinity Chapel 73 +The Black Prince's Tomb 77 +Shield, Coat, etc., of the Black Prince 80 +West Gate 81 +Trinity Chapel, looking into Corona, "Becket's Crown" 88 +Chair of St. Augustine 89 +Transept of "The Martyrdom" 92 +Part of South-Western Transept 94 +The Crypt 97 + Do. St. Gabriel's Chapel 100 + Do. Cardinal Morton's Monument 101 +Plans of Cathedral at three periods 130 + + * * * * * + + +[Illustration: THE CATHEDRAL FROM THE NORTH +(FROM A PHOTOGRAPH BY CARL NORMAN AND CO.).] + + + + +CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +THE HISTORY OF THE BUILDING. + + +More than four hundred years passed by between the beginning of the +building of this cathedral by Archbishop Lanfranc (1070-1089) and its +completion, by the addition of the great central tower, at the end of the +fifteenth century. But before tracing the history of the construction of +the present well-known fabric, a few words will not be out of place +concerning the church which preceded it on the same site. A British or +Roman church, said to have been built by a certain mythical King Lucius, +was given to St. Augustine by Ethelbert in A.D. 597. It was designed, +broadly speaking, on the plan of the old Basilica of St. Peter at Rome, +but as to the latest date of any alterations, which may or may not have +been made by Augustine and his immediate successors, we have no accurate +information. It is, however, definitely stated that Archbishop Odo, who +held the see from A.D. 942-959, raised the walls and rebuilt the roof. In +the course of these alterations the church was roofless for three years, +and we are told that no rain fell within the precincts during this time. +In A.D. 1011 Canterbury was pillaged by the Danes, who carried off +Archbishop Alphege to Greenwich, butchered the monks, and did much damage +to the church. The building was, however, restored by Canute, who made +further atonement by hanging up his crown within its walls, and bringing +back the body of Alphege, who had been martyred by the Danes. In the year +1067 the storms of the Norman Conquest overwhelmed St. Augustine's church, +which was completely destroyed by fire, together with many royal deeds of +privilege and papal bulls, and other valuable documents. + +A description of the church thus destroyed is given by Prof. Willis, who +quotes all the ancient writers who mention it. The chief authority is +Eadmer, who was a boy at the monastery school when the Saxon church was +pulled down, and was afterwards a monk and "singer" in the cathedral. It +is he who tells us that it was arranged in some parts in imitation of the +church of St. Peter at Rome. Odo had translated the body of Wilfrid, +Archbishop of York, from Ripon to Canterbury, and had "worthily placed it +in a more lofty receptacle, to use his own words, that is to say, in the +great Altar which was constructed of rough stones and mortar, close to the +wall at the eastern part of the presbytery. Afterwards another altar was +placed at a convenient distance before the aforesaid altar.... In this +altar the blessed Elphege had solemnly deposited the head of St. Swithin +... and also many relics of other saints. To reach these altars, a certain +crypt which the Romans call a Confessionary had to be ascended by means of +several steps from the choir of the singers. This crypt was fabricated +beneath in the likeness of the confessionary of St. Peter, the vault of +which was raised so high that the part above could only be reached by many +steps." The resting-place of St. Dunstan was separated from the crypt +itself by a strong wall, for that most holy father was interred before the +aforesaid steps at a great depth in the ground, and at the head of the +saint stood the matutinal altar. Thence the choir of the singers was +extended westward into the body of the church.... In the next place, +beyond the middle of the length of the body there were two towers which +projected beyond the aisles of the church. The south tower had an altar in +the midst of it, which was dedicated in honour of the blessed Pope +Gregory.... Opposite to this tower and on the north, the other tower was +built in honour of the blessed Martin, and had about it cloisters for the +use of the monks.... The extremity of the church was adorned by the +oratory of Mary.... At its eastern part, there was an altar consecrated to +the worship of that Lady.... When the priest performed the Divine +mysteries at this altar he had his face turned to the east.... Behind him, +to the west, was the pontifical chair constructed with handsome +workmanship, and of large stones and cement, and far removed from the +Lord's table, being contiguous to the wall of the church which embraced +the entire area of the building. + +Lanfranc, the first Norman archbishop, was granted the see in 1070. He +quickly set about the task of building himself a cathedral. Making no +attempt to restore the old fabric, he even destroyed what was left of +the monastic building, and built up an entirely new church and monastery. +Seven years sufficed to complete his cathedral, which stood on the same +ground as the earlier fane. His work, however, was not long left +undisturbed. It had not stood for twenty years before the east end of the +church was pulled down during the Archiepiscopate of Anselm, and rebuilt +in a much more splendid style by Ernulph, the prior of the monastery. +Conrad, who succeeded Ernulph as prior, finished the choir, decorating it +with great magnificence, and, in the course of his reconstruction, nearly +doubling the area of the building. Thus completed anew, the cathedral was +dedicated by Archbishop William in A.D. 1130. At this notable ceremony the +kings of England and Scotland both assisted, as well as all the English +bishops. Forty years later this church was the scene of Thomas à Becket's +murder (A.D. 1170), and it was in Conrad's choir that the monks watched +over his body during the night after his death. + +Eadmer also gives some description of the church raised by Lanfranc. The +new archbishop, "filled with consternation" when he found that "the church +of the Saviour which he undertakes to rule was reduced to almost nothing +by fire and ruin," proceeded to "set about to destroy it utterly, and +erect a more noble one. And in the space of seven years he raised this new +church from the very foundations and rendered it nearly perfect.... +Archbishop Anselm, who succeeded Lanfranc, appointed Ernulf to be +prior.... Having taken down the eastern part of the church which Lanfranc +had built, he erected it so much more magnificently, that nothing like it +could be seen in England, either for the brilliancy of its glass windows, +the beauty of its marble pavement, or the many coloured pictures which led +the wondering eyes to the very summit of the ceiling." It was this part of +the church, however, that was completed by Ernulf's successor, Conrad, and +afterwards known as Conrad's choir. It appears that Anselm "allowed the +monks to manage their own affairs, and gave them for priors Ernulf, and +then Conrad, both monks of their own monastery. And thus it happened that, +in addition to the general prosperity and good order of their property, +which resulted from this freedom, they were enabled to enlarge their +church by all that part which stretches from the great tower to the east; +which work Anselm himself provided for," having "granted to the said +church the revenues of his town of Peckham, for seven years, the whole of +which were expended upon the new work." Prof. Willis, unable to account +for the haste with which the east end of Lanfranc's church was pulled +down, assumes that the monks "did not think their church large enough for +the importance of their monastery," and moreover wanted shrine-room for +the display of relics. The main body of Lanfranc's church was left +standing, and is described as follows by Gervase. "The tower, raised upon +great pillars, is placed in the midst of the church, like the centre in +the middle of a circle. It had on its apex a gilt cherub. On the west of +the tower is the nave of the church, supported on either side upon eight +pillars. Two lofty towers with gilded pinnacles terminate this nave or +aula. A gilded _corona_ hangs in the midst of the church. A screen with a +loft (_pulpitum_) separated in a manner the aforesaid tower from the nave, +and had in the middle and on the side towards the nave, the altar of the +holy cross. Above the _pulpitum_ and placed across the church, was the +beam, which sustained a great cross, two cherubim, and the images of St. +Mary and St. John the Apostle.... The great tower had a cross from each +side, to wit, a south cross and a north cross, each of which had in the +midst a strong pillar; this pillar sustained a vault which proceeded from +the walls on three of its sides," etc. Prof. Willis considers that as far +as these parts of the building are concerned, the present fabric stands +exactly on the site of Lanfranc's. "In the existing building," he says, +"it happens that the nave and transepts have been transformed into the +Perpendicular style of the fourteenth century, and the central tower +carried up to about double its original altitude in the same style. +Nevertheless indications may be detected that these changed parts stand +upon the old foundations of Lanfranc." + +The building, however, was not destined to remain long intact. In A.D. +1174 the whole of Conrad's choir was destroyed by a fire, which was +described fully by Gervase, a monk who witnessed it. He gives an +extraordinary account of the rage and grief of the people at the sight of +the burning cathedral. The work of rebuilding was immediately set on foot. +In September, 1174, one William of Sens, undertook the task, and wrought +thereat until 1178, when he was disabled by an unfortunate fall from a +scaffolding, and had to give up his charge and return to France. Another +William, an Englishman this time, took up the direction of the work, +and under his supervision the choir and eastern portion of the church +were finished in A.D. 1184. Further alterations were made under Prior +Chillenden at the end of the fourteenth century. Lanfranc's nave was +pulled down, and a new nave and transepts were constructed, leaving but +little of the original building set up by the first Norman archbishop. +Finally, about A.D. 1495, the cathedral was completed by the addition of +the great central tower. + +[Illustration: PLAN OF CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL, ABOUT A.D. 1165. + +From a Norman drawing inserted in the Great Psalter of Eadwin, in the +Library of Trinity College, Cambridge. First published in _Vetusta +Monumenta_ (Society of Antiquaries, 1755). For full description and a +plan of the waterworks see _Archæologia Cantiana_, Vol. VII., 1868.] + +During the four centuries which passed during the construction and +reconstruction of the fabric, considerable changes had manifested +themselves in the science and art of architecture. Hence it is that +Canterbury Cathedral is a history, written in solid stone, of +architectural progress, illustrating in itself almost all the various +kinds of the style commonly called Pointed. Of these the earliest form of +Gothic and Perpendicular chiefly predominate. The shape and arrangement of +the building was doubtless largely influenced by the extraordinary number +of precious relics which it contained, and which had to be properly +displayed and fittingly enshrined. Augustine's church had possessed the +bodies of St. Blaize and St. Wilfrid, brought respectively from Rome and +from Ripon; of St. Dunstan, St. Alphege, and St. Ouen, as well as the +heads of St. Swithin and St. Furseus, and the arm of St. Bartholomew. +These were all carefully removed and placed, each in separate altars and +chapels, in Lanfranc's new cathedral. Here their number was added to by +the acquisition of new relics and sacred treasures as time went on, and +finally Canterbury enshrined its chiefest glory, the hallowed body of St. +Thomas à Becket, who was martyred within its walls. + +Since, owing to an almost incredible act of royal vindictiveness in A.D. +1538, Becket's glorious shrine belongs only to the history of the past, +some account of its splendours will not be out of place in this part of +our account of the cathedral. It stood on the site of the ancient chapel +of the Trinity, which was burnt down along with Conrad's choir in the +destructive fire of A.D. 1174. It was in this chapel that Thomas à Becket +had first solemnized mass after becoming archbishop. For this reason, as +we may fairly suppose, this position was chosen to enshrine the martyr's +bones, after the rebuilding of the injured portion of the fabric. Though +the shrine itself has been ruthlessly destroyed, a mosaic pavement, +similar to that which may be seen round the tomb of Edward the Confessor +in Westminster Abbey, marks the exact spot on which it stood. The mosaic +is of the kind with which the floors of the Roman basilicas were generally +adorned, and contains signs of the zodiacs and emblems of virtues and +vices. This pavement was directly in front of the west side of the shrine. +On each side of the site is a deep mark in the pavement running towards +the east. This indentation was certainly worn in the soft, pinkish marble +by the knees of generations of pilgrims, who prostrated themselves here +while the treasures were displayed to their gaze. In the roof above there +is fixed a crescent carved out of some foreign wood, which has proved +deeply puzzling to antiquaries. A suggestion, which hardly seems very +plausible, connects this mysterious crescent with the fact that Becket was +closely related, as patron, with the Hospital of St. John at Acre. It was +believed that his prayers had once repulsed the Saracens from the walls of +the fortress, and he received the title of St. Thomas Acrensis. Near this +crescent a number of iron staples were to be seen at one time, and it is +likely that a trophy of some sort depended from them. The Watching Tower +was set high upon the Tower of St. Anselm, on the south side of the +shrine. It contained a fireplace, so that the watchman might keep himself +warm during the winter nights, and from a gallery between the pillars he +commanded a view of the sacred spot and its treasures. A troop of fierce +ban-dogs shared the task of guarding the shrine from theft. How necessary +such precautions were is shown by the fact that such a spot had to be +guarded not only from common robbers in search of rich booty, but also +from holy men, who were quite unscrupulous in their desire to possess +themselves and their own churches of sacred relics. Within the first six +years after Becket's death we read of two striking instances of the +lengths to which distinguished churchmen were carried by what Dean Stanley +calls "the first frenzy of desire for the relics of St. Thomas." Benedict, +a monk of Christ Church, and "probably the most distinguished of his +body," was created Abbot of Peterburgh in A.D. 1176. Disappointed to find +that his cathedral was very poor in the matter of relics he returned to +Canterbury, "took away with him the flagstones immediately surrounding the +sacred spot, with which he formed two altars in the conventual church of +his new appointment, besides two vases of blood and parts of Becket's +clothing." Still more striking and characteristic of the prevalent passion +for relics is the story of Roger, who was keeper of the "Altars of the +Martyrdom," or "Custos Martyrii." The brothers of St. Augustine's Abbey +were so eager to obtain a share in the glory which their great rival, the +neighbouring cathedral, had won from the circumstances of Becket's +martyrdom within its walls, that they actually offered Roger no less a +reward than the position of abbot in their own institution, on condition +that he should purloin for them some part of the remains of the martyr's +skull. And not only did Roger, though he had been specially selected from +amongst the monks of Christ Church to watch over this very treasure, agree +to their conditions, and after duly carrying out this piece of +sacrilegious burglary become Abbot of St. Augustine's; but the chroniclers +of the abbey were not ashamed to boast of this transaction as an instance +of cleverness and well-applied zeal. + +The translation of Becket's remains from the tomb to his shrine took place +A.D. 1220, fifty years after his martyrdom. The young Henry III., who had +just laid the foundation of the new abbey at Westminster, assisted at the +ceremony. The primate then ruling at Canterbury was the great Stephen +Langton, who had won renown both as a scholar and a statesman. He had +carried out the division of the Bible into chapters, as it is now +arranged, and had won a decisive victory for English liberty by forcing +King John to sign the Great Charter. He was now advanced in years, and had +recently assisted at the coronation of King Henry at Westminster. + +The translation was carried out with imposing ceremony. The scene must +have been one of surpassing splendour; never had such an assemblage been +gathered together in England. Robert of Gloucester relates that not only +Canterbury but the surrounding countryside was full to overflowing: + + "Of bishops and abbots, priors and parsons, + Of earls, and of barons, and of many knights thereto; + Of serjeants, and of squires, and of husbandmen enow, + And of simple men eke of the land--so thick thither drew." + +The archbishop had given notice two years before, proclaiming the day of +the solemnity throughout Europe as well as England: the episcopal manors +had been bidden to furnish provisions for the huge concourse, not only in +the cathedral city, but along all the roads by which it was approached. +Hay and provisions were given to all who asked it between London and +Canterbury; at the gates of the city and in the four licensed cellars tuns +of wine were set up, that all who thirsted might drink freely, and wine +ran in the street channels on the day of the festival. During the night +before the ceremony the primate, together with the Bishop of Salisbury and +all the members of the brotherhood, who were headed by Walter the Prior, +solemnly, with psalms and hymns, entered the crypt in which the martyr's +body lay, and removed the stones which covered the tomb. Four priests, +specially conspicuous for their piety, were selected to take out the +relics, which were then placed in a strong coffer studded with iron nails +and fastened with iron hasps. + +Next day a procession was formed, headed by the young king, Henry III. +After him came Pandulf, the Italian Bishop of Norwich and Papal Nuncio, +and Langton the archbishop, with whom was the Archbishop of Rheims, +Primate of France. The great Hubert de Burgh, Lord High Justiciary, +together with four other barons, completed the company, which was selected +to bear the chest to its resting-place. When this had been duly deposited, +a solemn mass was celebrated by the French archbishop. The anniversary of +this great festival was commemorated as the Feast of the Translation of +the Blessed St. Thomas, until it was suppressed by a royal injunction of +Henry VIII. in 1536. + +A picture of the shrine itself is preserved among the Cottonian MSS., and +a representation of it also exists in one of the stained windows of the +cathedral. At the end of it the altar of the Saint had its place; the +lower part of its walls were of stone, and against them the lame and +diseased pilgrims used to rub their bodies, hoping to be cured of their +afflictions. The shrine itself was supported on marble arches, and +remained concealed under a wooden covering, doubtless intended to enhance +the effect produced by the sudden revelation of the glories beneath it; +for when the pilgrims were duly assembled on their knees round the shrine, +the cover was suddenly raised at a given signal, and though such a device +may appear slightly theatrical in these days, it is easy to imagine how +the devotees of the middle ages must have been thrilled at the sight of +this hallowed tomb, and all the bravery of gold and precious stones which +the piety of that day had heaped upon it. The beauties of the shrine were +pointed out by the prior, who named the giver of the several jewels. Many +of these were of enormous value, especially a huge carbuncle, as large as +an egg, which had been offered to the memory of St. Thomas by Louis VII. +of France, who visited the shrine in A.D. 1179, after having thrice seen +the Saint in a vision. A curious legend, thoroughly in keeping with the +mystic halo of miraculous power which surrounds the martyred archbishop's +fame, relates that the French king could not make up his mind to part with +this invaluable gem, which was called the "Regale of France;" but when he +visited the tomb, the stone, so runs the story, leapt forth from the ring +in which it was set, and fixed itself of its own will firmly in the wall +of the shrine, thus baffling the unwilling monarch's half-heartedness. +Louis also presented a gold cup, and gave the monks a hundred measures, +medii, of wine, to be delivered annually at Poissy, also ordaining that +they should be exempt from "toll, tax, and tallage" when journeying in his +realm. He himself was made a member of the brotherhood, after duly +spending a night in prayer at the tomb. It is said that, "because he was +very fearful of the water," the French king received a promise from the +Saint that neither he nor any other that crossed over from Dover to +Whitsand, should suffer any manner of loss or shipwreck. We are told that +Louis's piety was afterwards rewarded by the miraculous recovery, through +St. Thomas's intercession, of his son from a dangerous illness. Louis was +the first of a series of royal pilgrims to the shrine. Richard the Lion +Heart, set free from durance in Austria, walked thither from Sandwich to +return thanks to God and St. Thomas. After him all the English kings and +all the Continental potentates who visited the shores of Britain, paid due +homage, and doubtless made due offering, at the shrine of the sainted +archbishop. The crown of Scotland was presented in A.D. 1299 by Edward +Longshanks, and Henry V. gave thanks here after his victory over the +French at Agincourt. Emperors, both of the east and west, humbled +themselves before the relics of the famous English martyr. Henry VIII. and +the Emperor Charles V. came together at Whitsuntide, A.D. 1520, in more +than royal splendour, and with a great retinue of English and Spanish +noblemen, and worshipped at the shrine which had then reached the zenith +of its glory. + +But though the stately stories of these royal progresses to the tomb of +the martyred archbishop strike the imagination vividly, yet the picture +presented by Chaucer's "Canterbury Tales" is in reality much more +impressive. For we find there all ranks of society alike making the +pilgrimage--the knight, the yeoman, the prioress, the monk, the friar, the +merchant, the scholar from Oxford, the lawyer, the squire, the tradesman, +the cook, the shipman, the physician, the clothier from Bath, the priest, +the miller, the reeve, the manciple, the seller of indulgences, and, +lastly, the poet himself--all these various sorts and conditions of men +and women we find journeying down to Canterbury in a sort of motley +caravan. Foreign pilgrims also came to the sacred shrine in great numbers. +A curious record, preserved in a Latin translation, of the journey of a +Bohemian noble, Leo von Rotzmital, who visited England in 1446, gives a +quaint description of Canterbury and its approaches. "Sailing up the +Channel," the narrator writes, "as we drew near to England we saw lofty +mountains full of chalk. These mountains seem from a distance to be clad +with snows. On them lies a citadel, built by devils, '_a Cacodæmonibus +extructa_,' so stoutly fortified that its peer could not be found in any +province of Christendom. Passing by these mountains and citadel we put in +at the city of Sandwich (_Sandvicum_).... But at nothing did I marvel more +greatly than at the sailors climbing up the masts and foretelling the +distance, and approach of the winds, and which sails should be set and +which furled. Among them I saw one sailor so nimble that scarce could any +man be compared with him." Journeying on to Canterbury, our pilgrim +proceeds: "There we saw the tomb and head of the martyr. The tomb is of +pure gold, and embellished with jewels, and so enriched with splendid +offerings that I know not its peer. Among other precious things upon it is +beholden the carbuncle jewel, which is wont to shine by night, half a +hen's egg in size. For that tomb has been lavishly enriched by many kings, +princes, wealthy traders, and other righteous men." + +Such was Canterbury Cathedral in the middle ages, the resort of emperors, +kings, and all classes of humble folk, English and foreign. It was in the +spring chiefly, as Chaucer tells us, that + + "Whanne that April with his showres sote + The droughte of March hath perced to the rote, + And bathed every veine in swiche licour, + Of whiche vertue engendred is the flour; + When Zephyrus eke with his sote brethe + Enspired hath in every holt and hethe + The tendre croppes, and the yonge sonne + Hath in the Ram his halfe cours yronne, + And smale foules maken melodie + That slepen alle night with open eye, + So priketh hem nature in hir corages; + Than longen folk to gon on pilgrimages + And palmeres for to seken strange strondes + To serve hauves couthe in sondry londes; + And specially from every shires ende + Of Englelonde, to Canterbury they wende + The holy blissful martyr for to seke, + That hem hath holpen when that they were seke." + +The miracles performed by the bones of the blessed martyr are stated by +contemporary writers to have been extraordinarily numerous. We have it on +the authority of Gervase that two volumes full of these marvels were +preserved at Canterbury, and in those days a volume meant a tome of +formidable dimensions; but scarcely any record of these most interesting +occurrences has been preserved. At the time of Henry VIII.'s quarrel with +the dead archbishop--of which more anon--the name of St. Thomas and all +account of his deeds was erased from every book that the strictest +investigation could lay hands on. So thoroughly was this spiteful edict +carried out that the records of the greatest of English saints are +astonishingly meagre. A letter, however, has been preserved, written about +A.D. 1390 by Richard II. to congratulate the then archbishop, William +Courtenay, on a fresh miracle performed by St. Thomas: "_Litera domini +Regis graciosa missa domino archiepiscopo, regraciando sibi de novo +miraculo Sancti Thome Martiris sibi denunciato._" The letter refers, in +its quaint Norman-French, to the good influence that will be exercised by +such a manifestation, as a practical argument against the "various enemies +of our faith and belief"--_noz foie et creaunce ount plousours enemys_. +These were the Lollards, and the pious king says that he hopes and +believes that they will be brought back to the right path by the effect +of this miracle, which seems to have been worked to heal a distinguished +foreigner--_en une persone estraunge_. + +Another document (dated A.D. 1455) preserves the story of the miraculous +cure of a young Scotsman, from Aberdeen, _Allexander Stephani filius in +Scocia, de Aberdyn oppido natus_. Alexander was lame, _pedibus contractus_, +from his birth, we are told that after twenty-four years of pain and +discomfort--_vigintiquatuor annis penaliter laborabat_--he made a +pilgrimage to Canterbury, and there "the sainted Thomas, the divine +clemency aiding him, on the second day of the month of May did straightway +restore his legs and feet, _bases et plantas_, to the same Alexander." + +Other miracles performed by the saint are pictured in the painted windows +of Trinity Chapel, of which we shall treat fully later on. The fame of the +martyr spread through the whole of Christendom. Stanley tells us that +"there is probably no country in Europe which does not exhibit traces of +Becket. A tooth of his is preserved in the church of San Thomaso +Cantuariense at Verona, part of an arm in a convent at Florence, and +another part in the church of St. Waldetrude at Mons; in Fuller's time +both arms were displayed in the English convent at Lisbon; while Bourbourg +preserves his chalice, Douay his hair shirt, and St. Omer his mitre. The +cathedral of Sens contains his vestments and an ancient altar at which he +said mass. His story is pictured in the painted windows at Chartres, and +Sens, and St. Omer, and his figure is to be seen in the church of Monreale +at Palermo." + +In England almost every county contained a church or convent dedicated to +St. Thomas. Most notable of these was the abbey of Aberbrothock, raised, +within seven years after the martyrdom, to the memory of the saint by +William the Lion, king of Scotland. William had been defeated by the +English forces on the very day on which Henry II. had done penance at the +tomb, and made his peace with the saint, and attributing his misfortunes +to the miraculous influence of St. Thomas, endeavoured to propitiate him +by the dedication of this magnificent abbey. A mutilated image of the +saint has been preserved among the ruins of the monastery. This is perhaps +the most notable of the gifts to St. Thomas. The volume of the offerings +which were poured into the Canterbury coffers by grateful invalids who +had been cured of their ailments, and by others who, like the Scotch king, +were anxious to propitiate the power of the saint, must have been +enormous. We know that at the beginning of the sixteenth century the +yearly offerings, though their sums had already greatly diminished, were +worth about £4,000, according to the present value of money. + +The story of the fall of the shrine and the overthrow of the power of the +martyr is so remarkable and was so implicitly believed at the time, that +it cannot be passed over in spite of the doubts which modern criticism +casts on its authenticity. It is said that in April, A.D. 1538, a writ of +summons was issued in the name of King Henry VIII. against Thomas Becket, +sometime Archbishop of Canterbury, accusing him of treason, contumacy, and +rebellion. This document was read before the martyr's tomb, and thirty +days were allowed for his answer to the summons. As the defendant did not +appear, the suit was formally tried at Westminster. The Attorney General +held a brief for Henry II., and the deceased defendant was represented by +an advocate named by Henry VIII. Needless to relate, judgment was given in +favour of Henry II., and the condemned Archbishop was ordered to have his +bones burnt and all his gorgeous offerings escheated to the Crown. The +first part of the sentence was remitted and Becket's body was buried, but +he was deprived of the title of Saint, his images were destroyed +throughout the kingdom, and his name was erased from all books. The shrine +was destroyed, and the gold and jewels thereof were taken away in +twenty-six carts. Henry VIII. himself wore the Regale of France in a ring +on his thumb. Improbable as the story of Becket's trial may seem, such a +procedure was strictly in accordance with the forms of the Roman Catholic +Church, of which Henry still at that time professed himself a member: +moreover it is not without authentic parallels in history: exactly the +same measures of reprisal had been taken against Wycliffe at Lutterworth; +and Queen Mary shortly afterwards acted in a similar manner towards Bucer +and Fagius at Cambridge. + +The last recorded pilgrim to the shrine of St. Thomas was Madame de +Montreuil, a great French dame who had been waiting on Mary of Guise, in +Scotland. She visited Canterbury in August, A.D. 1538, and we are told +that she was taken to see the wonders of the place and marvelled at all +the riches thereof, and said "that if she had not seen it, all the men in +the world could never 'a made her believe it." Though she would not kiss +the head of St. Thomas, the Prior "did send her a present of coneys, +capons, chickens, with divers fruits--plenty--insomuch that she said, +'What shall we do with so many capons? Let the Lord Prior come, and eat, +and help us to eat them tomorrow at dinner' and so thanked him heartily +for the said present." + +Such was the history of Becket's shrine. We have dwelt on it at some +length because it is no exaggeration to say that in the Middle Ages +Canterbury Cathedral owed its European fame and enormous riches to the +fact that it contained the shrine within its walls, and because the story +of the influence of the Saint and the miracles that he worked, and the +millions of pilgrims who flocked from the whole civilized world to do +homage to him, throws a brighter and more vivid light on the lives and +thoughts and beliefs of mediæval men than many volumes stuffed with +historical research. No visitor to Canterbury can appreciate what he sees, +unless he realizes to some extent the glamour which overhung the resting +place of St. Thomas in the days of Geoffrey Chaucer. We have no certain +knowledge as to whether the other shrines and relics which enriched the +cathedral were destroyed along with those of St. Thomas. Dunstan and +Elphege at least can hardly have escaped, and it is probable that most of +the monuments and relics perished at the time of the Reformation. We know +that in A.D. 1541, Cranmer deplored the slight effect which had been +wrought by the royal orders for the destruction of the bones and images +of supposed saints. And that he forthwith received letters from the king, +enjoining him to cause "due search to be made in his cathedral churches, +and if any shrine, covering of shrine, table, monument of miracles, or +other pilgrimage, do there continue, to cause it to be taken away, so as +there remain no memory of it." This order probably brought about the +destruction of the tombs and monuments of the early archbishops, most +of whom had been officially canonised, or been at least enrolled in the +popular calendar, and were accordingly doomed to have their resting-places +desecrated. We know that about this time the tomb of Winchelsey was +destroyed, because he was adored by the people as a reputed saint. + +Any monuments that may have escaped royal vandalism at the Reformation +period, fell before the even more effective fanaticism of the Puritans, +who seem to have exercised their iconoclastic energies with especial zeal +and vigour at Canterbury. Just before their time Archbishop Laud spent a +good deal of trouble and money on the adornment of the high altar. A +letter to him from the Dean, dated July 8th, A.D. 1634, is quoted by +Prynne, "We have obeyed your Grace's direction in pulling down the +exorbitant seates within our Quire whereby the church is very much +beautified.... Lastly wee most humbly beseech your Grace to take notice +that many and most necessary have beene the occasions of extraordinary +expences this yeare for ornaments, etc." And another Puritan scribe tells +us that "At the east end of the cathedral they have placed an Altar as +they call it dressed after the Romish fashion, for which altar they have +lately provided a most idolatrous costly glory cloth or back cloth." + +These embellishments were not destined to remain long undisturbed. In A.D. +1642, the Puritan troopers hewed the altar-rails to pieces and then "threw +the Altar over and over down the three Altar steps, and left it lying with +the heels upwards." This was only the beginning: we read that during the +time of the Great Rebellion, "the newly erected font was pulled down, the +inscriptions, figures, and coats of arms, engraven upon brass, were torn +off from the ancient monuments, and whatsoever there was of beauty or +decency in the holy place, was despoiled." + +A manuscript, compiled in 1662, and preserved in the Chapter library, +gives a more minute account of this work of destruction. "The windows +were generally battered and broken down; the whole roof, with that of the +steeples, the chapter-house and cloister, externally impaired and ruined +both in timber-work and lead; water-tanks, pipes, and much other lead cut +off; the choir stripped and robbed of her fair and goodly hangings; the +organ and organ-loft, communion-table, and the best and chiefest of the +furniture, with the rail before it, and the screen of tabernacle work +richly overlaid with gold behind it; goodly monuments shamefully abused, +defaced, and rifled of brasses, iron grates, and bars." + +The ringleader in this work of destruction was a fanatic named Richard +Culmer, commonly known as Blue Dick. A paper preserved in the Chapter +library, in the writing of Somner, the great antiquarian scholar, +describes the state in which the fabric of the cathedral was left, at the +time of the Restoration of King Charles II., in 1660. "So little," says +this document, "had the fury of the late reformers left remaining of it +besides the bare walles and roofe, and these, partly through neglect, and +partly by the daily assaults and batteries of the disaffected, so +shattered, ruinated, and defaced, as it was not more unserviceable in the +way of a cathedral than justly scandalous to all who delight to serve God +in the beauty of Holines." Most of the windows had been broken, "the +church's guardians, her faire and strong gates, turned off the hooks and +burned." The buildings and houses of the clergy had been pulled down or +greatly damaged; and lastly, "the goodly oaks in our common gardens, of +good value in themselves, and in their time very beneficial to our church +by their shelter, quite eradicated and _set to sale_." This last touch is +interesting, as showing that the reforming zeal of the Puritans was not +always altogether disinterested. + +After the Restoration some attempt was made to render the cathedral once +more a fitting place of worship, and the sum of £10,000 was devoted to +repairs and other public and pious uses. A screen was put up in the same +position as the former one, and the altar was placed in front. But, in +A.D. 1729, this screen no longer suited the taste of the period, and a +sum of £500, bequeathed by one of the prebendaries, was devoted to the +erection of a screen in the Corinthian style, designed by a certain Mr. +Burrough, afterwards Master of Caius College, Cambridge. A little before +this time the old stalls, which had survived the Puritan period were +replaced: a writer describes them, in the early half of the seventeenth +century, as standing in two rows, an upper and lower, on each side, with +the archbishop's wood throne above them on the south side. This chair he +mentions as "sometime richly guilt, and otherwise well set forth, but now +nothing specious through age and late neglect. It is a close seat, made +after the old fashion of such stalls, called thence _faldistoria_; only in +this they differ, that they were moveable, this is fixt." + +Thus wrote Somner in A.D. 1640: the dilapidated throne of which he speaks +was replaced, in A.D. 1704, by a splendid throne with a tall Corinthian +canopy, and decorated with carving by Grinling Gibbons, the gift of +Archbishop Tenison, who also set up new stalls. At the same time Queen +Mary the Second presented new and magnificent furniture for the altar, +throne, stalls of the chief clergy, and pulpit. Since then many alterations +have been made. The old altar and screen have been removed, and a new +reredos set up, copied from the screen work of the Lady Chapel in the +crypt; and Archbishop Tenison's throne has given place to a lofty stone +canopy. In 1834 owing to its tottering condition the north-west tower of +the nave had to be pulled down. It was rebuilt on an entirely different +plan by Mr. George Austin, who, with his son, also conducted a good deal +of repairing and other work in the cathedral and the buildings connected +with it. A good deal of the external stonework had to be renewed, but the +work was carried out judiciously, and only where it was absolutely +necessary. On the west side of the south transept a turret has been pulled +down and set up again stone by stone. The crypt has been cleared out and +restored, and its windows have been reopened. The least satisfactory +evidences of the modern hand are the stained glass windows, which have been +put up in the nave and transepts of the cathedral. The Puritan trooper had +wrought havoc in the ancient glass, smashing it wherever a pike-thrust +could reach; and modern piety has been almost as ruthless in erecting +windows which are quite incredibly hideous. + +In September, 1872, Canterbury was once more damaged by fire, just about +seven hundred years after the memorable conflagration described by +Gervase. On this occasion, however, the damage did not go beyond the outer +roof of the Trinity Chapel. The fire broke out at about half-past ten in +the morning, and was luckily discovered before it had made much progress, +by two plumbers who were at work in the south gutter. According to the +"Builder" of that month, "a peculiar whirring noise" caused them to look +inside the roof, and they found three of the main roof-timbers blazing. "The +best conjecture seems to be that the dry twigs, straw, and similar +_débris_, carried into the roof by birds, and which it has been the custom +to clear at intervals out of the vault pockets, had caught fire from a +spark that had in some way passed through the roof covering, perhaps under +a sheet raised a little at the bottom by the wind." Assistance was quickly +summoned, and "by half-past twelve the whole was seen to be extinguished. +At four o'clock the authorities held the evening service, so as not to +break a continuity of custom extending over centuries; and in the +smoke-filled choir, the whole of the Chapter in residence, in the proper +Psalm (xviii.), found expression for the sense of victory over a conquered +enemy." + +Thus little harm was done, but it must have been an exciting crisis while +it lasted. "The bosses [of the vaulting], pierced with cradle-holes, +happened to be well-placed for the passage of the liquid lead dripping on +the back of the vault from the blazing roof," which poured down on to the +pavement below, on the very spot which Becket's shrine had once occupied. +"Through the holes further westward water came, sufficient to float over +the surfaces of the polished Purbeck marble floor and the steps of the +altar, and alarmed the well-intentioned assistants into removing the +altar, tearing up the altar-rails, etc., etc. The relics of the Black +Prince, attached to a beam (over his tomb) at the level of the caps of the +piers on the south side of Trinity Chapel, were all taken down and placed +away in safety. The eastern end of the church is said to have been filled +with steam from water rushing through with, and falling on, the molten +lead on the floor; and, in time, by every opening, wood-smoke reached the +inside of the building, filling all down to the west of the nave with a +blue haze." The scene in the building is said to have been one of +extraordinary beauty, but most lovers of architecture would probably +prefer to view the fabric with its own loveliness, unenhanced by numerous +streams of molten lead pouring down from the roof. + +Since that date Canterbury Cathedral has been happy in the possession of +no history, and we pass on, therefore, to the examination in detail of its +exterior. + +[Illustration: THE CLOISTERS.] + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +EXTERIOR AND PRECINCTS--THE MONASTERY. + + +The external beauties of Canterbury Cathedral can best be viewed in their +entirety from a distance. The old town has nestled in close under the +walls of the church that dominates it, preventing anything like a complete +view of the building from the immediate precincts. But Canterbury is girt +with a ring of hills, from which we may enjoy a strikingly beautiful view +of the ancient city, lying asleep in the rich, peaceful valley of the +Stour, and the mighty cathedral towering over the red-tiled roofs of the +town, and looking, as a rustic remarked as he gazed down upon it "like a +hen brooding over her chickens." Erasmus must have been struck by some +such aspect of the cathedral, for he says, "It rears its crest (_erigit +se_) with so great majesty to the sky, that it inspires a feeling of awe +even in those who look at it from afar." Such a view may well be got from +the hills of Harbledown, a village about two miles from Canterbury, +containing in itself many objects of antiquarian and æsthetic interest. +It stands on the road by which Chaucer's pilgrims wended their way to the +shrine of St. Thomas, and it is almost certainly referred to in the lines +in which the poet speaks of + + "A little town + Which that yeleped is Bob Up and Down + Under the Blee in Canterbury way." + +The name Harbledown is derived by local philologists from Bob up and Down, +and the hilly nature of the country fully justifies the title. Here stands +Lanfranc's Lazar-house, "so picturesque even now in its decay, and in +spite of modern alterations which have swept away all but the ivy-clad +chapel of Lanfranc." In this hospital a shoe of St. Thomas was preserved +which pilgrims were expected to kiss as they passed by; and in an old +chest the modern visitor may still behold a rude money-box with a slit in +the lid, into which the great Erasmus is said to have dropped a coin when +he visited Canterbury at the time when St. Thomas's glory was just +beginning to wane. Behind the hospital is an ancient well called "the +Black Prince's Well." The Black Prince, as is well known, passed through +Canterbury on his way from Sandwich to London, whither he was escorting +his royal prisoner, King John of France, whom he had captured at the +battle of Poitiers, A.D. 1357. We need not doubt that he halted at +Harbledown to salute the martyr's shoe, and he may have washed in the +water of the well, which was henceforward called by his name. Another +tradition relates that he had water brought to him from this well when +he lay sick, ten years later, in the archbishop's palace at Canterbury. + +[Illustration: VIEW ON THE STOUR.] + +Another good view may be had from the crest on which stands St. Martin's +Church, which was formerly believed to be the oldest in England, so +ancient that its origin was connected with the mythical King Lucius. +Modern research has decided that it is of later date, but there is no +doubt that on the spot on which it now stands, Bertha, the wife of +Ethelbert--who was ruling when Augustine landed with his monks--had a +little chapel, as Bede relates, "in the east of the city," where she +worshipped, before her husband's conversion, with her chaplain, Luidhard, +a French priest. Dean Stanley has described this view in a fine passage: + +"Let any one sit on the hill of the little church of St. Martin, and look +on the view which is there spread before his eyes. Immediately below are +the towers of the great abbey of St. Augustine, where Christian learning +and civilization first struck root in the Anglo-Saxon race; and within +which, now, after a lapse of many centuries, a new institution has arisen, +intended to carry far and wide to countries of which Gregory and Augustine +never heard, the blessings which they gave to us. Carry your view on--and +there rises high above all the magnificent pile of our cathedral, equal in +splendour and state to any, the noblest temple or church, that Augustine +could have seen in ancient Rome, rising on the very ground which derives +its consecration from him. And still more than the grandeur of the outward +building that rose from the little church of Augustine, and the little +palace of Ethelbert, have been the institutions of all kinds, of which +these were the earliest cradle. From the first English Christian +city--from Kent, the first English Christian kingdom--has, by degrees, +arisen the whole constitution of Church and State in England which now +binds together the whole British Empire. And from the Christianity here +established in England has flowed, by direct consequence, first, the +Christianity of Germany--then after a long interval, of North America, and +lastly, we may trust in time, of all India and all Australasia. The view +from St. Martin's Church is, indeed, one of the most inspiriting that can +be found in the world; there is none to which I would more willingly take +any one who doubted whether a small beginning could lead to a great and +lasting good--none which carries us more vividly back into the past, or +more hopefully forward to the future." + +In the town itself, the best point of vantage from which the visitor can +get a good view of the cathedral is the summit of the Dane John, a lofty +mound crowned by an obelisk; from this height we look across at the roof +and towers of the cathedral rising above thickly clustering trees: from +here also there is a fine view over the beautiful valley of the Stour in +the direction of Thanington and Chartham. + +In the immediate precincts, a delightful picture is presented from the +Green Court, which was once the main outer court of the monastery. Here +are noble trees and beautifully kept turf, at once in perfect harmony and +agreeable contrast with the rugged walls of the weather-beaten cathedral: +the quiet soft colouring of the ancient buildings and that look of +cloistered seclusion only to be found in the peaceful nooks of cathedral +cities are seen here at their very best. + +[Illustration: "BELL HARRY," THE CENTRAL TOWER.] + +The chief glory of the exterior of Canterbury Cathedral is the central +#Angel or Bell Tower#. This is one of the most perfect structures that +Gothic architecture, inspired by the loftiest purpose that ever stimulated +the work of any art, has produced. It was completed by Prior Selling, who +held office in 1472, and has been variously called the Bell Harry Tower +from the mighty Dunstan bell, weighing three tons and three hundredweight, +and the Angel Tower from the gilded figure of an angel poised on one of +the pinnacles, which has long ago disappeared. The tower itself is of two +stages, with two two-light windows in each stage; the windows are +transomed in each face, and the lower tier is canopied; each angle is +rounded off with an octagonal turret and the whole structure is a +marvellous example of architectural harmony, and in every way a work of +transcendent beauty. The two buttressing arches and the ornamental braces +which support it were added at the end of the fifteenth century by Prior +Goldstone, to whom the building of the whole tower is apparently +attributed in the following quaint passage from a mediæval authority: "He +by the influence and help of those honourable men, Cardinal John Morton +and Prior William Sellyng, erected and magnificently completed that lofty +tower commonly called Angyll Stepyll in the midst of the church, between +the choir and the nave--vaulted with a most beautiful vault, and with +excellent and artistic workmanship in every part sculptured and gilt, with +ample windows glazed and ironed. He also with great care and industry +annexed to the columns which support the same tower two arches or +vaults of stone work, curiously carved, and four smaller ones, to assist +in sustaining the said tower" ("Ang. Sac." i. 147, translated by Professor +Willis). The western front of the cathedral is flanked by two towers of +great beauty; a point in which Mediæval architecture has risen above that +of all other ages is the skill which it displays in the use of towers of +different heights, breaking the dull straight line of the roof and +carrying the eye gradually up to the loftiest point of the building. +Canterbury presents an excellent example of the beauty of this +subordination of lower towers to the chief; we invite the visitor, when +looking at the exterior, to compare it mentally, on the one hand, with the +dull severity of the roof line of a Greek temple, and on the other, to +take a fair example of modern so-called Gothic, with the ugly straight +line of the Houses of Parliament, as seen from the Lambeth Embankment, +broken only by the two stark and stiff erections at each end. The two +towers at the west end of Canterbury were not always uniform. At the +northern corner an old Norman tower formerly uplifted a leaden spire one +hundred feet high. This rather anomalous arrangement must have had a +decidedly lopsided effect, and it is probable that the appearance of the +cathedral was changed very much for the better when the spire, which had +been taken down in 1705, was replaced by Mr. Austin in 1840, by a tower +uniform with the southernmost tower, called the Chicele or Oxford steeple: +this tower was completed by Prior Goldstone, who, during his tenure of +office from 1449-68, also built the Lady Chapel. On its south side stands +the porch, with a remarkable central niche, which formerly contained a +representation of Becket's martyrdom. The figures of the Archbishop's +assassins now no longer remain; but their place has been filled up with +figures of various worthies who have lived under the shadow of the +cathedral. Dean Alford suggested, about 1863, that the many vacant niches +should be peopled in this manner, and since then the work has proceeded +steadily. The western towers are built each of six stages: each of the two +upper tiers contains two two-light windows, while below there is a large +four-light window uniform with the windows of the aisles. The base tier is +ornamented with rich panelling. The parapet is battlemented and the angles +are finished with fine double pinnacles. At the west end there is a large +window of seven lights, with three transoms. The gable contains a window +of very curious shape, filled with intricate tracery. The space above the +aisle windows is ornamented with quatrefoiled squares, and the clerestory +is pierced by windows of three lights. In the main transept there is a +fine perpendicular window of eight lights; the choir, or south-east +transept, has a Norman front, with arcades, and a large round window; also +an arcaded west turret surmounted by a short spire. Beyond this, the line +is again broken by the projection of St. Anselm's so-called Tower; this +chapel hardly merits such a title, unless we adopt the theory that it, and +the corresponding building on the north side, were at one time a good deal +more lofty, but lost their upper portions at the time of the great fire. +The end of the cathedral has a rather untidy appearance, owing to the fact +that the exterior of the corona was never completed. On the northern side +the building is so closely interwoven with the cloister and monastic +buildings that it can only be considered in conjunction with them. The +length of the cathedral is 514 feet, the height of the central tower 235 +feet, and that of the western towers 130 feet. + +The chief interest of ancient buildings to the ordinary observer, as apart +from the architectural specialist, is the fact that they are after all the +most authentic documents in our possession from which we can gain any +insight into the lives and modes of thought of our ancestors. To tell us +how ordinary men lived and busied themselves is beneath the dignity of +history. As Carlyle says: "The thing I want to see is not Redbook Lists, +and Court Calendars, and Parliamentary Registers, but the _Life of Man_ in +England: what men did, thought, suffered, enjoyed; ... Mournful, in truth, +is it to behold what the business 'called History' in these so enlightened +and illuminated times, still continues to be. Can you gather from it, read +till your eyes go out, any dimmest shadow of an answer to that great +question: How men lived and had their being; were it but economically, as, +what wages they got, and what they bought with these? Unhappily they +cannot.... History, as it stands all bound up in gilt volumes, is but a +shade more instructive than the wooden volumes of a backgammon-board." +Most of us have felt, at one time or another, the truth of these words, +though it is only fair to add that the fault lies not so much at the door +of the modern historian as of our ancestors themselves, who were too busy +with fighting and revelling to leave any but the most meagre account of +their own lives behind them; so that "Redbook Lists and Parliamentary +Registers" are all that the veracious chronicler, who will not let his +imagination run riot, can find to put before us. But happily, in the +wildest days of the Middle Ages, there were found some peace-loving souls +who preferred to drone away their lives in quiet meditation behind the +walls of the great monasteries, undisturbed by the clash of swords. Some +outlet had to be found for their innate energies and their intense +religious enthusiasm; missionary zeal had not yet been invented, and the +writing of books would have seemed to them a waste of good parchment, for +in their eyes the Scriptures and the Aristotelian writings supplied all +the food that the most voracious intellect could crave for. So they +applied all their genius--and it is probable that the flower of the +European race, as far as intelligence and culture are concerned, was +gathered in those days into the Church--and all the ecstatic fervour of +their religious devotion, the strength of which men of these latter days +can hardly realize, to the construction of beautiful buildings for the +worship of God. They have written a history in stone, from which a +thoughtful student can supply much that is left out by the dry-as-dust +annalists, for it is not only the history, but the actual result and +expression, of the lives of the most gifted men of the Middle Ages. + +If we would read this history aright it is necessary that we should look +at it as far as possible, as it was originally published. If the old +binding has been torn off, and the volume hedged in by a crowd of modern +literature, we must try to put these aside and consider the book as it was +first issued; in other words, to drop metaphor altogether, in considering +a building like Canterbury Cathedral, we must forget the busy little +country town, with its crowded streets and noisy railway stations, though, +from one point of view, the contrast that they present is agreeable and +valuable, and try to conceive the church as it once stood, the centre of a +harmonious group of monastic buildings. + +The founder of the monastic system in the West was the famous Benedict of +Nursia, who had adapted the strict code of St. Basil, mitigating its +severity, and making it more in accordance with the climate, manners, +and general circumstances of Western peoples. His code was described by +Gregory the Great as "excellent in its discretion, lucid in its +expression"--_discretione præcipuam sermone luculentam_. He founded the +monasteries of Montecassino and Subiaco in the beginning of the sixth +century. In the ninth and tenth centuries--the worst period of the Dark +Ages--corruption and laxity pervaded society in general, and the +Benedictine monasteries especially. At the end of this deplorable epoch +many efforts were made in the direction of reform. Gregory the Great +himself was a member of the Benedictine brotherhood; so also was +Augustine, who founded the great monastery of Christ Church. The venerable +Bede relates that "when Augustine, the first Archbishop of Canterbury, +assumed the episcopal throne in that royal city, he recovered therein, +by the king's assistance, a church which, as he was told, had been +constructed by the original labour of Roman believers. This church he +consecrated in the name of the Saviour, our God and Lord Jesus Christ, and +there he established an habitation for himself and all his successors." +This was the Basilica-Church, mentioned in an earlier part of this work, +an imitation of the original Basilica of St. Peter at Rome. Augustine's +monastery was handsomely endowed. A large stretch of country was given to +the monks, and they were the first who brought the soil into cultivation, +and built churches and preached in them. "The monks," says Bede, "were the +principal of those who came to the work of preaching." In the city itself +there were thirty-two "mansuræ" or mansions, held by the clergy, rendering +35_s._ a year, and a mill worth 5_s._ per annum. Augustine's monastery +lived and prospered--though, as we shall see, it did not escape the +general corruption of the eighth and ninth centuries--until the time of +the Norman invasion. In 1067 a fire destroyed the Saxon cathedral and the +greater part of the monastic buildings. But the year 1070 marks an epoch +in the history of the monastery, for it was then that William the +Conqueror having deposed Stigand, the Saxon Primate, invited Lanfranc, the +Abbot of Caen, to accept the vacant see. He "being overcome by the will of +God as much as by the apostolic authority, passed over into England, and, +not forgetful of the object for which he had come, directed all his +endeavours to the correction of the manners of his people, and settling +the state of the Church. And first he laboured to renew the church of +Canterbury ... and built also necessary offices for the use of the monks; +and (which is very remarkable) he caused to be brought over the sea in +swift sailing vessels squared stones from Caen in order to build with. He +also built a house for his own dwelling near the church, and surrounded +all these buildings with a vast and lofty wall." Also "he duly arranged +all that was necessary for the table and clothing of the monks," and "many +lands which had been taken away he brought back into the property of the +Church and restored to it twenty-five manors." He also added one hundred +to the original number of the monks, and drew up a new system of +discipline to correct the laxity which was rife when he entered on the +primacy. He tells Anselm in a letter that "the land in which he is, is +daily shaken with so many and so great tribulations, is stained with so +many adulteries and other impurities, that no order of men consults for +the benefit of his soul, or even desires to hear the salutary doctrine of +God for his increase in holiness." Perhaps the most interesting feature of +his reconstruction of the "regula," or rule for the monks' discipline, was +his enactment with regard to the library and the studies of the brethren. +In the first week in Lent, the monks had to bring back and place in the +Chapter House the books which had been provided for their instruction +during the previous year. Those who had not duly performed the yearly +portion of reading prostrated themselves, confessing their fault and +asking pardon. A fresh distribution was then made, and the brethren +retired, each furnished with a year's literary task. Apparently no +examination was held, no test applied to discover whether the last year's +instruction had been digested and assimilated. It was assumed that +anything like a perfunctory performance of the allotted task was out +of the question. + +Another important alteration introduced by Lanfranc was his inauguration +of the system under which the monastery was in immediate charge, no longer +of the archbishop, but of a prior. Henceforward the primate stood forth as +the head of the Church, rather than as merely the chief of her most +ancient foundation. + +We have dwelt at some length on the subject of the monastery at +Canterbury, because, as we have said, it is impossible to learn the +lesson of the cathedral truly, unless we regard the fabric in its original +setting, surrounded by monastic buildings; and it is impossible to +interest ourselves in the monastic buildings without knowing something of +the institution which they housed. + +[Illustration: DETAIL OF ST. ANSELM'S TOWER.] + +The buildings which contained a great #monastery# like that of Canterbury +were necessarily very extensive. Chief among them was the chapter house, +which generally adjoined the principal cloister, bounded by the nave of +the church and one of the transepts. Then there were the buildings +necessary for the actual housing and daily living of the monks--the +dormitory, refectory, kitchen, buttery, and other indispensable offices. +Another highly important building, usually standing eastward of the +church, was the infirmary or hospital for sick brethren, with its chapel +duly attached. Further, the rules of Benedictine monasteries always +enjoined the strict observance of the duty of hospitality, and some part +of the buildings was invariably set aside for the due entertainment of +strangers of various ranks. Visitors of distinction were entertained in +special rooms which generally were attached to the house of the prior or +abbot: guests of a lower order were lodged hard by the hall of the +cellarer; while poor pilgrims and chance wanderers who craved a night's +shelter were bestowed, as a rule, near the main gate of the monastery. +Lastly, it must not be forgotten that a well-endowed monastery was always +the steward of a great estate, so that many storehouses and +farm-buildings--barns, granaries, bakehouse, etc.--were a necessary part +of the institution. Extensive stabling was also required to shelter the +horses of illustrious visitors and their suites. Moreover, the clergy +themselves were often greatly addicted to the chase, and we know that the +pious St. Thomas found time to cultivate a taste for horseflesh, which was +remarkable even in those days when all men who wanted to move at all were +bound to ride. The knights who murdered him thought it worth while to +pillage his stable after accomplishing their errand. + +[Illustration: THE CHRISTCHURCH GATE +(FROM A PHOTOGRAPH BY CARL NORMAN AND CO).] + +The centre round which all these manifold buildings and offices were +ranged was, of course, the cathedral. Wherever available space and the +nature of the ground permitted it, the cloister and chief buildings were +placed under the shelter of the church on its southern side, as may be +seen, for instance, at Westminster, where the cloisters, chapter house, +deanery, refectory (now the College Hall), etc., are all gathered on the +south side of the Abbey. At Canterbury, however, the builders were not +able to follow the usual practice, owing to the fact that they were hemmed +in closely by the houses of the city on the south side, so that we find +that the space between the north side of the cathedral and the city wall, +all of which belonged to the monks, was the site of the monastic +buildings. The whole group formed by the cathedral and the subsidiary +buildings was girt by a massive wall, which was restored and made more +effective as a defence by Lanfranc. It is probable that some of the +remains of this wall, which still survive, may be considered as dating +from his time. The chief gate, both in ancient and modern days, is Prior +Goldstone's Gate, usually known as #Christ Church Gate#, an exceedingly +good example of the later Perpendicular style. A contemporary inscription +tells us that it was built in 1517. It stands at the end of Mercery Lane, +a lofty building with towers at its corners, and two storeys above the +archway. In front there is a central niche, in which an image of our +Saviour originally stood, while below a row of shields, much battered and +weather-beaten, display armorial bearings, doubtless those of pious +contributors to the cost of the building. An early work of Turner's has +preserved the corner pinnacles which once decorated the top of the gate; +these were removed some thirty years ago. + +[Illustration: THE SOUTH-WEST PORCH OF THE CATHEDRAL.] + +[Illustration: CLOISTERS OF THE MONKS' INFIRMARY.] + +Entering the precincts through this gateway we find ourselves in what was +the _outer_ cemetery, in which members of the laity were allowed to be +buried. The _inner_ cemetery, reserved as a resting-place for the brethren +themselves, was formerly divided from the outer by a wall which extended +from St. Anselm's chapel. A Norman door, which was at one time part of +this wall, has now been put into a wall at the east end of the monks' +burying ground. This space is now called "The Oaks." A bell tower, +_campanile_, doubtless used for tolling the passing bell, once stood on a +mound in the cemetery, close to the dividing wall. The houses on the south +side of this space are of no great antiquity or interest, and the site on +which they stand did not become part of the monastery grounds before a +comparatively late period. But if we skirt the east end of the cathedral +we come to the space formerly known as the "Homors," a word supposed to be +a corruption of _Ormeaux_, a French word, meaning elms.[1] Here stood the +building in which guests of rank and distinction were entertained; and the +great hall, with its kitchen and offices, is still preserved in a house in +the north-east corner of the inclosure, now the residence of one of the +prebendaries. The original building was one of great importance in a +monastery like Canterbury, which was so often visited, as has already been +shown, by royal pilgrims. It is said to have been rebuilt from top to +bottom by Prior Chillenden, and the nature of the architecture, as far as +it can be traced, is not in any way at variance with this statement. The +hall, as it originally stood, was pierced with oriel windows rising to the +roof, and at its western end a walled-off portion was divided into two +storeys, the lower one containing the kitchens, while the upper one was +either a distinct room separated from the hall, or it may have been a +gallery opening upon it. + + [1] Though it is also derived from one Dr. Omerus, who lived on the spot + in the thirteenth century. + +To the west of this house we find the #ruins of the Infirmary#, which +contained a long hall with aisles, and a chapel at the east end. The hall +was used as the hospital, and the aisles were sometimes divided into +separate compartments; the chapel was really part of the hall, with only a +screen intervening, so that the sick brethren could take part in the +services. This infirmary survived until the Reformation period, but not +without undergoing alterations. Before the fifteenth century the south +aisle was devoted to the use of the sub-prior, and the chancel at the east +end of the chapel was partially restored about the middle of the +fourteenth century. A large east window was put in with three-light +windows on each side. In the north wall there is a curious opening, +through which, perhaps, sufferers from infectious diseases were allowed to +assist at the services. On the southern side, the whole row of the pillars +and arches of the chapel, and some traces of a clerestory, still remain. +On the wall are some traces of paintings, which are too faded to be +deciphered. Such of the pillars and arches of the hall as still survive +are strongly coloured by the great fire of 1174, in which Prior Conrad's +choir was destroyed. + +[Illustration: RUINS OF THE MONKS' INFIRMARY.] + +[Illustration: THE BAPTISTERY TOWER.] + +Westward of the infirmary, and connected with St. Andrew's tower, stands a +strikingly beautiful building, which was once #the Vestiarium, or +Treasury#: it consists of two storeys, of which the lower is open on the +east and west, while the upper contained the treasury chamber, a finely +proportioned room, decorated with an arcade of intersecting arches. + +An archway leads us from the infirmary into what is called the Dark Entry, +whence a passage leads to the Prior's Gate and onward into the Prior's +Court, more commonly known as the Green Court: this passage was the +eastern boundary of the infirmary cloister. Over it Prior de Estria +raised the _scaccarium_, or checker-building, the counting-house of +the monastery. + +Turning back towards the infirmary entrance we come to #the Lavatory +Tower#, which stands out from the west end of the substructure of the +Prior's Chapel. The chapel itself was pulled down at the close of the +seventeenth century, and a brick-built library was erected on its site. +The lavatory tower is now more commonly called the baptistery, but this +name gives a false impression, and only came into use because the building +now contains a font, given to the cathedral by Bishop Warner. The lower +part of the tower is late Norman in style, and was built in the latter half +of the twelfth century, when the monastery was supplied with a system of +works by which water was drawn from some distant springs, which still +supply the cathedral and precincts. The water was distributed from this +tower to the various buildings. The original designs of the engineer are +preserved at Trinity College, Cambridge. The upper part of the tower was +rebuilt by Prior Chillenden. + +From the lavatory tower a covered passage leads into the great cloister, +which can also be approached from a door in the north-west transept. The +cloister, though it stands upon the space covered by that built by +Lanfranc, is largely the work of the indefatigable Prior Chillenden. It +shows traces of many architectural periods. The east walk contains a door, +leading into the transept, embellished with a triple arcade of early +English; under the central arch of the arcade is the doorway itself, a +later addition in Perpendicular. There is also a Norman doorway which once +communicated with the monks' dormitory: after the Reformation it was +walled up, but in 1813 the plaster which concealed it was taken away, and +since then it has been carefully restored. The rest of the work in this +part of the cloister is chiefly Perpendicular. The north walk is adorned +with an Early English arcade, against which the shafts which support +Chillenden's vaulting work are placed with rather unsatisfactory effect. +Towards the western end of this walk is the door of the refectory. + +[Illustration: TURRET OF SOUTH-WEST TRANSEPT.] + +The cellarer's quarters were outside the west walk, and they were +connected with the cloister by a doorway at the north-west corner: +opposite this entrance was a door leading to the archbishop's palace, and +through this Becket made his way towards the cathedral when his murderers +were in pursuit of him. + +The great dormitory of the monks was built along the east walk of the +cloister, extending some way beyond it. It was pulled down in 1547, but +the substructure was left standing, and some private houses were erected +upon it. These were removed in the middle of the last century, and a good +deal of the substructure remained until 1867, when the vaulting which +survived was pulled down to make way for the new library, which was +erected on the dormitory site. Some of the pillars on which the vault of +the substructure rested are preserved in a garden in the precincts; and a +fragment of the upper part of the dormitory building, which escaped the +demolition in 1547, may be seen in the gable of the new library. The +substructure was a fine building, 148 feet by 78 feet; the vaulting was, +as described by Professor Willis, "of the earliest kind; constructed of +light tufa, having no transverse ribs, and retaining the impressions of +the rough, boarded centring upon which they had been formed." A second +minor dormitory ran eastward from the larger one, while outside this was +the third dormitory, fronting the Green Court. Some portion of the vaults +of this building is still preserved in the garden before the lavatory +tower. + +#The Chapter House# lies eastward of the wall of the cloister, on the site +of the original Norman building, which was rather less extensive. The +present structure is oblong in shape, measuring 90 feet by 35 feet. The +roof consists of a "barrel vault" and was built by Prior Chillenden, along +with the whole of the upper storey at the end of the fourteenth century. +The windows, high and four-lighted, are also his work; those at the east +and west ends exceed in size all those of the cathedral, having seven +lights. The lower storey was built by Prior de Estria about a century +before the work was completed by Chillenden. De Estria also erected the +choir-screen in the cathedral, which will be described in its proper +place. The walls of the chapter house are embellished with an arcade of +trefoiled arches, surmounted by a cornice. At the east end stands a throne +with a splendid canopy. This building was at one time, after the +Reformation, used as a sermon house, but the inconvenience caused by +moving the congregation from the choir, where service was held, across to +the chapter house to hear the discourse, was so great that the practice +was not long continued. It has been restored, and its opening by H.R.H. +the Prince of Wales, May 29th, 1897, is announced just as this edition +goes to press. + +[Illustration: THE CLOISTERS.] + +#The Library# covers a portion of the site of the monks' dormitory. Stored +within it is a fine collection of books, some of which are exceedingly +rare. The most valuable specimens--among which are some highly interesting +bibles and prayer-books--are jealously guarded in a separate apartment +called the study. The most interesting document in the collection of +charters and other papers connected with the foundation is the charter of +Edred, probably written by Dunstan _propriis digitorum articulis_; this +room also contains an ancient picture of Queen Edgiva painted on wood, +with an inscription below enlarging on the beauties of her character and +her munificence towards the monastery. + +In the garden before the lavatory tower, to the west of the prior's +gateway, two columns are preserved which once were part of the ancient +church at Reculver--formerly Regulbium, whither Ethelbert retired after +making over his palace in Canterbury to Augustine. These columns were +brought to Canterbury after the destruction, nearly a hundred years ago, +of the church to which they belonged. After lying neglected for some time +they were placed in their present position by Mr. Sheppard, who bestowed +so much care on all the "antiquities" connected with the cathedral. These +columns are believed by experts to be undoubted relics of Roman work: they +are of circular form with Ionic capitals. A curious ropework decoration on +the bases is said to be characteristically Roman, occurs on a monument +outside the Porta Maggiore at Rome. + +#The Deanery# is a very much revised version of what once was the "New +Lodging," a building set up for the entertainment of strangers by Prior +Goldstone at the beginning of the sixteenth century. Nicholas Wotton, the +first Dean, chose this mansion for his abode, but since his day the +building has been very materially altered. + +[Illustration: NORMAN STAIRCASE IN THE CLOSE +(FROM A PHOTOGRAPH BY CARL NORMAN AND CO.).] + +[Illustration: DETAILS OF THE NORMAN STAIRCASE IN THE CLOSE.] + +The main gate of the #Green Court# is noticeable as a choice specimen of +Norman work; on its northern side formerly stood the Aula Nova which was +built in the twelfth century; the modern buildings which house the King's +School have supplanted the hall itself, but the splendid staircase, a +perfect example of Norman style and quite unrivalled in England, is +luckily preserved, and ranks among the chief glories of Canterbury. + +The site of the archbishop's palace is commemorated by the name of the +street--Palace Street--in which a ruined archway, all that remains of the +building, may still be seen. This mansion, in which so many royal and +imperial guests had been entertained with "solemne dauncing" and other +good cheer, was pillaged and destroyed by the Puritans; since then the +archbishops have had no official house in their cathedral city. + +[Illustration: DETAILS OF ORNAMENT.] + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +INTERIOR. + + +Dean Stanley tells us that in the days of our Saxon forefathers and for +some time after, "all disputes throughout the whole kingdom that could not +be legally referred to the king's court or to the hundreds of counties" +were heard and judged on in the south porch of Canterbury Cathedral. This +was always the principal entrance, and was known in early days as the +"Suthdure" by which name it is often mentioned in "the law books of the +ancient kings." Through this door we enter the nave of the cathedral; this +part of the building was erected towards the end of the fourteenth +century; Lanfranc's nave seems to have fallen into an unsafe and ruinous +state, so much so that in December, 1378, Sudbury, who was then +archbishop, "issued a mandate addressed to all ecclesiastical persons in +his diocese enjoining them to solicit subscriptions for rebuilding the +nave of the church, '_propter ipsius notoriam et evidentem ruinam_' and +granting forty days' indulgence to all contributors." Archbishop Courtenay +gave a thousand marks and more for the building fund, and Archbishop +Arundell gave a similar contribution, as well as the five bells which were +known as the "Arundell ryng." We are told also that "King Henry the 4th +helped to build up a good part of the Body of the Chirch." The immediate +direction of the work was in the hands of Prior Chillenden, already +frequently mentioned; his epitaph, quoted by Professor Willis, states that +"Here lieth Thomas Chyllindene formerly Prior of this Church, _Decretorum +Doctor egregius_, who caused the nave of this Church and divers other +buildings to be made anew. Who after nobly ruling as prior of this Church +for twenty years twenty five weeks and five days, at length on the day of +the assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary closed his last day. In the +year of the Lord 1411." It is not certain that Chillenden actually +designed the buildings which were erected under his care, with which his +name is connected. For we know that work which was conceived and executed +by humble monks was ascribed as a matter of course to the head of the +monastery, under whose auspices and sanction it was carried out. Matthew +Paris records that a new oaken roof, well covered with lead, was built for +the aisles and tower of St. Alban's by Michael of Thydenhanger, monk and +_camerarius_; but he adds that "these works must be ascribed to the abbot, +out of respect for his office, for he who sanctions the performance of a +thing by his authority, is really the person who does the thing." Prior +Chillenden became prior in 1390, and seems at any rate to have devoted a +considerable amount of zeal to the work of renovating the ruined portions +of the church. + +[Illustration: THE MURDER OF ST. THOMAS À BECKET. + +(Restoration, by T. Carter, of a painting on board hung on a column near +the tomb of Henry IV.).] + +[Illustration: THE SHRINE OF ST. THOMAS À BECKET. + +(Specially reproduced from a drawing among the Cottonian MSS. Brit. Mus.)] + +The new #Nave# replaced the original building of Lanfranc. Professor Willis +says: "The whole of Lanfranc's piers, and all that rested on them, appear +to have been utterly demolished, nothing remaining but the plinth of the +side-aisle walls.... The style [of Chillenden's new work] is a light +Perpendicular, and the arrangement of the parts has a considerable +resemblance to that of the nave of Winchester, although the latter is of a +much bolder character. Winchester nave was going on at the same time with +Canterbury nave, and a similar uncertainty exists about the exact +commencement. In both, a Norman nave was to be transformed; but at +Winchester the original piers were either clothed with new ashlaring, or +the old ashlaring was wrought into new forms and mouldings where possible; +while in Canterbury the piers were altogether rebuilt. Hence the piers of +Winchester are much more massive. The side-aisles of Canterbury are higher +in proportion, the tracery of the side windows different, but those of the +clerestory are almost identical in pattern, although they differ in the +management of the mouldings. Both have 'lierne' vaults [_i.e._, vaults in +which short transverse ribs or 'liernes' are mixed with the ribs that +branch from the vaulting capitals], and in both the triforium is obtained +by prolonging the clerestory windows downward, and making panels of the +lower lights, which panels have a plain opening cut through them, by which +the triforium space communicates with the passage over the roof of the +side-aisles." Chillenden, then, setting to work with the thoroughness +that marks his handiwork throughout, rebuilt the nave from top to bottom, +leaving nothing of Lanfranc's original structure save the "plinth of the +side-aisle walls," which still remains. The resemblance between the naves +of Canterbury and Winchester, pointed out by Professor Willis, will at +once strike a close observer, though the greater boldness of character +shown in the Winchester architecture is by no means the only point of +difference. The most obvious feature in the Canterbury nave--a point which +renders its arrangement unique among the cathedrals both of England and +the Continent--is the curious manner in which the choir is raised aloft +above the level of the floor; this is owing to the fact that it stands +immediately above the crypt; the flight of steps which is therefore +necessarily placed between the choir and the nave adds considerably to the +general effect of our first view of the interior. On the other hand, the +raising of the choir is probably to some extent responsible for the great +height of the nave in comparison with its length, a point which spoils its +effectiveness when we view it from end to end. Stanley, in describing the +entrance of the pilgrims into the cathedral, points out how different a +scene must have met their eyes. "The external aspect of the cathedral +itself," he says, "with the exception of the numerous statues which then +filled its now vacant niches, must have been much what it is now. Not so +its interior. Bright colours on the roof, on the windows, on the +monuments; hangings suspended from the rods which may still be seen +running from pillar to pillar; chapels, and altars, and chantries +intercepting the view, where now all is clear, must have rendered it so +different, that at first we should hardly recognize it to be the same +building." The pilgrims on entering were met by a monk, who sprinkled +their heads with holy water from a "sprengel," and, owing to the crowd of +devout visitors, they generally had to wait some time before they could +proceed towards a view of the shrine. Chaucer relates that the "pardoner, +and the miller, and other lewd sots," whiled away the time with staring at +the painted windows which then adorned the nave, and wondering what they +were supposed to represent: + + "'He beareth a ball-staff,' quoth the one, 'and also a rake's end;' + 'Thou failest,' quoth the miller, 'thou hast not well thy mind; + It is a spear, if thou canst see, with a prick set before, + To push adown his enemy, and through the shoulder bore.'" + +[Illustration: CAPITALS OF COLUMNS IN THE EASTERN APSE.] + +None of these windows now remain entire, though the west window has been +put together out of fragments of the ancient glass. The latter-day +pilgrims will do well to look as little as possible at the hideous glass +which the Philistinism of modern piety has inserted, during the last +half-century, in the windows of the clerestory and the nave. Its obtrusive +unpleasantness make one wish that "Blue Dick" and his Puritan troopers +might once more be let loose, under judicious direction, for half an hour +on the cathedral. When Erasmus visited Canterbury, the nave contained +nothing but some books chained to the pillars, among them the "Gospel of +Nicodemus"--printed by Wynkyn de Worde in 1509--and the "tomb of some +person unknown." The last words must refer either to the chapel in the +south wall, which was built by Lady Joan Brenchley in 1447, and removed in +1787, or to the monument of Archbishop William Wittlesey, who died in +1374, and was interred in the south side of the nave in a marble tomb with +a brass, now destroyed. At present the south aisle contains a monument, in +alabaster, to Dr. Broughton, sometime Bishop of Sydney, who was educated +in the King's School, under the shadow of the cathedral. The figure is +recumbent, and the base of the monument, which is by Lough, is decorated +with the arms of the six Australian sees. In the north aisle we find +monuments to Orlando Gibbons, Charles I.'s organist; Adrian Saravia, +prebendary of Canterbury, and the friend of Hooker, the author of the +"Ecclesiastical Polity;" Sir John Boys, who founded a hospital for the +poor outside the north gate of the town, and died in 1614; Dean Lyall, who +died in 1857; and Archbishop Sumner, who died in 1862. These last two +monuments are by Phillips and H. Weekes, R.A., respectively. + +#The Central Tower.#--In the nave the whole of Lanfranc's work was +destroyed, but in the central tower, which we will next examine, the +original supporting piers were left standing, though they were covered +over by Prior Chillenden with work more in keeping with the style in which +he had renewed the nave. "Of the tower piers," says Willis, "the western +are probably mere casings of the original, and the eastern certainly +appendages to the original.... Of course I have no evidence to show how +much of Lanfranc's piers was allowed to remain in the heart of the work. +The interior faces of the tower walls appear to have been brought forward +by a lining so as to increase their thickness and the strength of the +piers, with a view to the erection of a lofty tower, which however was not +carried above the roof until another century had nearly elapsed." It was +Prior Goldstone the second who, about 1500, carried upward the central +tower, which Chillenden seems to have left level with the roof of the +cathedral. "With the countenance and help of Cardinal John Morton and +Prior William Sellyng he magnificently completed that lofty tower +commonly called Angyll Stepyll in the middle of the church. The vaulting +of the tower is his work--_testudine pulcherrimâ concameratam +consummavit_--and he also added the buttressing arches--with great care +and industry he annexed to the columns which support the same tower two +arches or vaults of stonework, curiously carved, and four smaller ones, to +assist in sustaining the said tower." The addition of these buttressing +arches, not altogether happy in its artistic effect, was probably rendered +necessary by some signs of weakness shown by the piers of the tower, for +the north-west pier, which was not so substantially reinforced as the +others, now shows a considerable bend in an eastward direction. The "two +arches or vaults of stonework" were inserted under the western and +southern tower arches. "The eastern arch having stronger piers did not +require this precaution, and the northern, which opened upon the +'Martyrium,' seems to have been left free, out of reverence to the altar +of the martyrdom, and accordingly to have suffered the dislocation just +mentioned." The four smaller arches connected the two western tower-piers +with the nearest nave-pier and the wall of the transept. The buttressing +arches are strongly built, and are adorned with curious bands of +reticulated work. The central western arch occupies the place of the +rood-loft, and it is probable that until the Reformation the great rood +was placed over it. The rebus of Prior Thomas Goldstone--a shield with +three gold stones--is carved upon these arches. + +#The Western Screen#, which separates the nave from the choir, is now more +commonly known as the organ-screen: it is a highly elaborate and beautiful +piece of work, and the carvings which decorate it are well worthy of +examination. In the lower niches there are six crowned figures: one +holding a church is believed to be Ethelbert, while it has been assumed +that the figure on the extreme right represents Richard II.: probably +Henry IV., who, as has been already mentioned, "helped to build a good +part of the body of the Church" has a place of honour here, but no +certainty on this matter is possible. The thirteen mitred niches which +encircle the arch once contained figures of Christ and the twelve +Apostles, but these were destroyed by the Puritans. The exact date of this +outward screen is uncertain, but it was set up at some time during the +fifteenth century. "A little examination," says Willis, "of its central +archway will detect the junction of this new work with the stone enclosure +of the choir." In fact, this archway is considerably higher than that of +De Estria which still remains behind it. The apex of this arch reaches but +a little above the capitals of the new arch, and the flat space, or +tympanum, thus left between the two, is filled with Perpendicular tracery. + +#The Choir.#--"In the year of grace one thousand one hundred and +seventy-four, by the just but occult judgment of God, the Church of Christ +at Canterbury was consumed by fire, in the forty-fourth year from its +dedication, that glorious choir, to wit, which had been so magnificently +completed by the care and industry of Prior Conrad" ("Gervase," translated +by Willis). The work of rebuilding was immediately begun by William, the +architect of Sens. At the beginning of the fifth year of his work, he was, +by a fall from the height of the capitals of the upper vault, "rendered +helpless alike to himself and for the work, but no other person than +himself was in the least injured. Against the master only was the +vengeance of God or spite of the devil directed." He was succeeded in his +charge by one "William by name, English by nation, small in body, but in +workmanship of many kinds acute and honest." Now in the sixth year from +the fire, we read that the monks were "seized with a violent longing to +prepare the choir, so that they might enter it at the coming Easter. And +the master, perceiving their desires, set himself manfully to work, to +satisfy the wishes of the convent. He constructed, with all diligence, the +wall which encloses the choir and presbytery. He carefully prepared a +resting-place for St. Dunstan and St. Elfege. The choir thus hardly +completed even with the greatest labour and diligence, the monks were +resolved to enter on Easter Eve with the 'new fire,'" that is, the +paschal candle which was lit on Easter Eve and burnt until Ascension Day. +The kindling of this light was carried out in a very ceremonious manner as +enjoined in Lanfranc's statutes. A fire was made in the cloister and duly +consecrated, and the monks, having lit a taper at this fire carried it on +the end of a staff in solemn procession, singing psalms and hymns and +burning incense, and lit the paschal candle in the choir with it. + +Thus was the new choir completed, in the sixth year after the burning of +Conrad's. This part of the cathedral will be peculiarly interesting to the +architectural student, owing to the curious mixture of styles, which +enables him to compare the Norman and Early English characteristics side +by side. A striking feature in the aspect of the building, as seen from +the choir, is the remarkable inward bend with which the walls turn towards +one another at the end of the cathedral. The choir itself is peculiar in +the matter of length (180 feet--the longest in any English church), and +the lowness of the vaulting. The pillars, with their pier-arches and the +clerestory wall above are said by Willis to be without doubt the work of +William of Sens: but the whole question as to where the French William +left off and his English namesake began is extremely uncertain, as there +can be no doubt that William of Sens had fully planned out the work which +he was destined never to complete, and it is more than probable that his +successor worked largely upon his plans. We are on safer ground when we +assert that the new choir was altogether different from the building which +it replaced. The style was much more ornate and considerably lighter: the +characteristics of the work of the Williams are rich mouldings, varied and +elaborately carved capitals on the pillars, and the introduction of +gracefully slender shafts of Purbeck marble. Gervase, in pointing out the +differences between the works before and after the fire, mentions that +"the old capitals were plain, the new ones most artistically sculptured. +The old arches and everything else either plain or sculptured with an axe +and not with a chisel, but in the new work first rate sculpture abounded +everywhere. In the old work no marble shafts, in the new innumerable ones. +Plain vaults instead of ribbed behind the choir." "Sculptured with an +axe," reads rather curiously, but Professor Willis points out that "the +axe is not quite so rude a weapon in the hands of a mason as it might +appear at first sight. The French masons use it to the present day with +great dexterity in carving." The mouldings used by Ernulf were extremely +simple, and were decorated with a "peculiar and shallow class of notched +ornament", of which many examples exist in other buildings of the period; +while the mouldings of William of Sens "exhibit much variety, but are most +remarkable for the profusion of billet-work, zigzag and dogtooth, that are +lavished upon them." The first two methods of ornamentation are Norman, +the last an Early English characteristic. This mixture is not confined to +the details of decoration but may be observed also in the indiscriminate +employment of round and pointed arches. This feature, as Willis remarks, +"may have arisen either from the indifference of the artist as to the +mixture of forms or else from deliberate contrivance, for as he was +compelled, from the nature of his work, to retain round-headed arcades, +windows, and arches, in the side-aisles, and yet was accustomed to and +desirous of employing pointed arches in his new building, he might +discreetly mix some round-headed arches with them, in order to make the +contrast less offensive by causing the mixture of forms to pervade the +whole composition, as if an intentional principle." + +[Illustration: THE CHOIR, LOOKING EAST +(FROM A PHOTOGRAPH BY CARL NORMAN AND CO.).] + +Whatever the motive, this daring mixture renders the study of the +architectural features of our cathedral peculiarly interesting. In the +triforium we find a semicircular outer arch circumscribing two inner +pointed ones. The clerestory arch is pointed, while some of the transverse +ribs of the great vault are pointed and some round. + +The inward bend of the walls at the end of the choir was necessitated by +the fact that the towers of St. Anselm and St. Andrew had survived the +great fire of 1174. Naturally the pious builders did not wish to pull down +these relics of the former church, so that a certain amount of contraction +had to be effected in order that these towers should form part of the new +plan. This arrangement also fitted in with the determination to build a +chapel of the martyred St. Thomas at the end of the church, on the site of +the former Trinity Chapel. For the Trinity Chapel had been much narrower +than the new choir, but this contraction enabled the rebuilders to +preserve its dimensions. + +#The Altar#, when the choir was at first completed by William, stood +entirely alone, and without a reredos; behind it the archbishop's chair +was originally placed, but this was afterwards transferred to the corona. +The remarkable height at which the altar was set up is due to the fact +that it is placed over the new crypt, which is a good deal higher than the +older, or western crypt. Before the Reformation the high altar was richly +embellished with all kinds of precious and sacred ornaments and vessels: +while beneath it, in a vault, were stored a priceless collection of gold +and silver vessels: such of these as escaped the rapacity of Henry VIII. +were destroyed by the bigotry of the Puritan zealots: the latter made +havoc of the reredos which had been erected behind the high altar, +probably during the fourteenth century, and also a "most idolatrous costly +glory cloth," the gift of Archbishop Laud. The reredos was replaced by a +Corinthian screen, which was of elaborate design, but must have been +strangely out of keeping with its surroundings; it was removed about 1870, +to make way for the present reredos which was designed in the style of the +screen work in the Lady Chapel in the crypt, but which cannot be commended +as an object of beauty. The altar coverings which are now in use were +presented to the cathedral by Queen Mary, the wife of William III., when +she visited Canterbury. A chalice, given by the Earl of Arundel in 1636, +is among the communion-plate. In his account of the building of the new +choir, Gervase tells us that "the Master carefully prepared a +resting-place for St. Dunstan and St. Elfege--the co-exiles of the monks." +When the choir was ready, "Prior Alan, taking with him nine of the +brethren of the Church in whom he could trust, went by night to the tombs +of the saints, so that he might not be incommoded by a crowd, and having +locked the doors of the church, he commanded the stone-work that inclosed +them to be taken down. The monks and the servants of the Church, in +obedience to the Prior's commands, took the structure to pieces, opened +the stone coffins of the saints, and bore their relics to the +_vestiarium_. Then, having removed the cloths in which they had been +wrapped, and which were half-consumed from age and rottenness, they +covered them with other and more handsome palls, and bound them with linen +bands. They bore the saints, thus prepared, to their altars, and deposited +them in wooden chests, covered within and without with lead: which chests, +thus lead-covered, and strongly bound with iron, were inclosed in +stone-work that was consolidated with melted lead." This translation +was thus carried out by Prior Alan on the night before the formal re-entry +into the choir: the rest of the monks, who had not assisted at the +ceremony, were highly incensed by the prior's action, for they had +intended that the translation of the fathers should have been performed +with great and devout solemnity. They even went so far as to cite the +prior and the trusty monks who had assisted him before the Archbishop, and +it was only by the intervention of the latter, and other men of authority, +and "after due apology and repentance," that harmony was restored in the +convent. + +[Illustration: THE CHOIR BEFORE RESTORATION.] + +The bones of St. Dunstan were long a cause of contention between the +churches of Canterbury and Glastonbury. The monks of Glastonbury +considered that they had a prior claim on the relics of the sainted +archbishop, and stoutly contended that his body had been conveyed to their +own sanctuary after the sack of Canterbury by the Danes; and they used to +exhibit a coffin as containing Dunstan's remains. But early in the +fourteenth century they went so far as to set up a gorgeous shrine in +which they placed, with much pomp and circumstance, the supposed relics. +Archbishop Warham, who then ruled at Canterbury, accordingly replied by +causing the shrine in our cathedral to be opened, and was able to declare +triumphantly that he had found therein the remains of a human body, in the +costume of an archbishop, with a plate of lead on his breast, inscribed +with the words "SANCTUS DUNSTANUS." In the course of the subsequent +correspondence which passed between the two monasteries, the Abbot of +Glastonbury, after trying to argue that perhaps part only of the saint's +relics had been conveyed to his church, at last frankly confesses "the +people had believed in the genuineness of their saint for so long, that he +is afraid to tell them the truth." This shrine of St. Dunstan stood on the +south of the high altar, and was erected after the manner of a tomb: +though the shrine itself perished at the time of the Reformation, there +still remains, on the south wall of the choir, between the monuments of +Archbishops Stratford and Sudbury, some very fine open diaper-work, in +what is known as the Decorated style, which once formed part of the +ornamentation of St. Dunstan's altar. The shrine of St. Elfege, or +Alphege, who was archbishop at the time of the sacking of Canterbury by +the Danes, and was murdered by them, has been altogether destroyed. + +#The Choir Screen#, a solid structure of stone we know to be the work of +Prior de Estria, _i.e._, of Eastry in Kent, who was elected in 1285, and +died in 1331. According to the Obituary record, he "fairly decorated the +choir of the church with most beautiful stone-work cunningly carved." In +his Register there is an entry which evidently refers to the same work: +"Anno 1304-5. Reparation of the whole choir with three new doors and a new +screen (_pulpito_)." The three doors referred to are the north and south +entrances and the western one. It has already been pointed out that the +present western screen is a later addition. Professor Willis, whose great +work on the Architectural History of Canterbury Cathedral should be +studied by all who wish to examine the details of the building more +closely than is allowed by the scope of this work, describes De Estria's +screen as follows: "The lateral portions of this wall of enclosure are in +excellent order. In the western part of the choir, namely, between the +eastern transepts and the organ-screen, this wall is built so that its +inner face nearly ranges with the inner faces of the pillars; but eastward +of the transepts it is built between the pillars. The north doorway +remains perfect. The present south doorway, which is in a much later +style, is manifestly a subsequent insertion. This enclosure consists of a +solid wall, seven feet nine inches in height from the pavement of the +side-aisles. It has a stone-bench towards the side-aisles, and above that +a base, of the age of William of Sens; so that it is clear that the work +of De Estria belongs to the upper part only of the enclosure, which +consists of delicate and elaborately worked tracery, surmounted by an +embattled crest.... The entire work is particularly valuable on account +of its well-established date, combined with its great beauty and +singularity." + +A portion of the choir-pavement, lying between the two transepts, is +interesting as being undoubtedly part of the original flooring of Conrad's +choir, and probably the only fragment of it that was left undisturbed +after the great fire which destroyed "that glorious choir which had been +so magnificently completed by the care and industry of Prior Conrad." This +part of the pavement consists of large slabs of a peculiar "stone, or +veined marble of a delicate brown colour. When parts of this are taken up +for repair or alteration, it is usual to find lead which has run between +the joints of the slabs and spread on each side below, and which is with +great reason supposed to be the effect of the fire of 1174, which melted +the lead of the roof, and caused it to run down between the paving stones +in this manner." It is said that when the choir was filled with pews in +1706, and it was necessary to remove part of the pavement, the men engaged +on the work picked up enough of this lead to make two large gluepots. + +[Illustration: A MISERERE IN THE CHOIR.] + +The original wooden #stalls of the choir# were described by the writer of a +book published in 1640. He relates that there were two rows on each side, +an upper and a lower, and that above the stalls on the south side stood +the archbishop's wooden chair, "sometime richly guilt, and otherwise +richly set forth, but now nothing specious through age and late neglect." +Perhaps the battered and shabby condition of this part of the cathedral +furniture accounts for its having survived the Puritan period; it is at +least certain that it remained untouched until 1704, when the refurnishing +of the choir was begun by Archbishop Tenison; he himself presented a +wainscoted throne with lofty Corinthian canopy adorned with carving by +Gibbons, while the altar, the pulpit, and the stalls for the dean and +vice-dean were provided with rich fittings by Queen Mary II. The tracery +of the screen was hidden by a lining of wainscoting, which was put before +it. This arrangement lasted little more than a century. In the time of +Archbishop Howley, who held office from 1828 to 1848, the wainscoting +which concealed the screen was taken away, and Archbishop Tenison's throne +has made way for a lofty canopy of tabernacle work. Some carved work, +which has been ascribed to Gibbons, still remains before the eastern front +of the screen, between the choir and the nave. + +The position of the organ has been frequently shifted. In Conrad's choir +it was placed upon the vault of the south transept; afterwards it was set +up upon a large corbel of stone, over the arch of St. Michael in the same +transept. This corbel has now been removed; subsequently it was placed +between two pillars on the north side of the choir, and, later on, it was +again transferred to a position over the west door of the choir, the usual +place for the organ in cathedral churches; finally it has been +"ingeniously deposited out of sight in the triforium of the south aisle of +the choir; a low pedestal with its keys stands in the choir itself, so as +to place the organist close to the singers, as he ought to be, and the +communication between the keys and the organ is effected by trackers +passing under the pavement of the side aisles, and conducted up to the +triforium, through a trunk let into the south wall." This arrangement not +only secures the retirement from view of the organ, which, with its +tedious rows of straight and unsightly pipes, is generally more or less an +eyesore in cathedrals, but is said to have caused a great improvement in +the effect of its music. The present organ, which was built by Samuel +Green, is believed to have been used at the Handel Festival in Westminster +Abbey in 1784. It was enlarged by Hill in 1842, and entirely reconstructed +in 1886. In this connection we may mention that Archbishop Theodore first +introduced the ecclesiastical chant in Canterbury Cathedral. + +The tombs in the choir are all occupied by famous archbishops and +cardinals. On the south side, hard by the site of the shrine of St. +Dunstan, is the tomb of Simon of Sudbury, who was archbishop from 1375 to +1381. He built the west gate of the city, and a great part of the town +walls; in consideration of these benefits the mayor and aldermen used at +one time to make an annual procession to his resting-place and offer +prayers for his soul. Outside Canterbury his acts were not regarded with +so much gratitude, for he was the inventor, or reviver, of the poll tax, +and was in consequence beheaded on Tower Hill by Wat Tyler and his +followers. Stanley relates that "not many years ago, when this tomb was +accidentally opened, the body was seen within, wrapped in cere-cloth, a +leaden ball occupying the vacant place of the head." Sudbury is also +famous as having spoken against the "superstitious" pilgrimages to St. +Thomas' shrine, and his violent death was accordingly attributed to the +avenging power of the incensed saint. Westward of his monument stands that +of Archbishop Stratford (1333-1348), who was Grand Justiciary to Edward +III. during his absence in Flanders, and won fame by his struggle with the +king. Between this tomb and the archbishop's throne lies Cardinal Kemp +(1452-1454), who was present at Agincourt in the camp of Henry V.; his +tomb is surmounted by a remarkable wooden canopy. Opposite, on the north +side, is the very interesting monument of Archbishop Henry Chichele +(1414-1443). Shakespeare tells us that he was the instigator of Henry V.'s +war with France, and it is supposed that out of remorse for this act he +built, during his lifetime, the curious tomb which now conceals his bones; +it is kept in repair by All Souls' College, which was founded by the +penitent archbishop that its fellows might pray for the souls of all who +had perished during the war; the effigy, in full canonicals, with its head +supported by angels, and with two monks holding open books, kneeling at +its feet, lies on the upper slab; and underneath is a ghastly figure in a +winding-sheet, supposed to represent the archbishop after death; the +diminutive figures which originally filled the niches were destroyed by +the Puritans, but have been to some extent replaced. The gaudy colours of +the tomb enable one to form some idea of the appearance of the churches in +the Middle Ages, when they were bedizened with painted images, hangings, +and frescoes: to judge from this specimen the effect must have been +distinctly tawdry. Further east we find the monument of Archbishop Howley; +he was chiefly remarkable as having crowned Queen Victoria and married her +to the Prince Consort, and his monument is noticeable as being the first +erected to an archbishop, in the cathedral, since the Reformation; he +himself lies at Addington. Beyond is a fine tomb well worthy of +examination, crowned by an elaborate canopy which shows traces of rough +usage at the hands of the restoring enthusiasts, who surrounded the choir +with classical wainscoting after the Restoration. It is the monument of +Archbishop Bourchier, a staunch supporter of the House of York; he was +primate for thirty-two years, from 1454 to 1486, and crowned Edward IV., +Richard III., and Henry VII. The "Bourchier knot" is among the decorations +which enrich the canopy of his tomb. + +#The South-East Transept.#--According to the present custom of the +Canterbury vergers, the visitor is led from the choir to the south-east +transept. "In the choir of Ernulf," says Willis, "the transepts were cut +off from the body by the continuity of the pier-arches and the wall above, +and each transept was therefore a separate room with a flat ceiling.... +But in the new design of William the transepts were opened to the central +portion, and the triforium and clerestory of the choir were turned at +right angles to their courses, and thus formed the side walls of the +transepts.... The entire interior of the eastern transept has been most +skilfully converted from Ernulfian architecture to Willelmian (if I may be +allowed the phrase for the nonce). It was necessary that the triforium and +clerestory of the new design should be carried along the walls of these +transepts, which were before the fire probably ornamented by a +continuation of those of Ernulf. But the respective level of these +essential members were so different in the old and new works that the +only parts of them that could be retained were the windows of the old +clerestory, which falls just above the new triforium tablet, and +accordingly these old windows may still be seen in the triforia of the +transepts, surmounted by the new pointed clerestory windows. But the whole +of the arcade work and mouldings in the interior of these transepts +belongs to William of Sens, with the sole exception of the lower windows. +Even the arches which open from the east wall of these transepts to the +apses have been changed for pointed arches, the piers of which have a +singularly elegant base." + +In the two apses of this transept altars to St. Gregory and St. John once +stood, and here were shrines of four Saxon primates. There is a window in +the south wall erected to the memory of Dean Alford; below it is the spot +on which the tomb of Archbishop Winchelsea (1294-1313) was placed. He was +famous for his contest with Edward I. concerning clerical subsidies, and +for having secured from the king the confirmation of the charter. He was +more practically endeared to the people by the generosity of his +almsgiving--it is said that he distributed two thousand loaves among the +poor every Sunday and Thursday when corn was dear, and three thousand when +it was cheap. His tomb was heaped with offerings like the shrine of a +saint, but the Pope refused to confirm the popular enthusiasm by +canonizing the archbishop; the fact, however, that it had been so +reverenced was enough to qualify it for destruction in the days of Henry +VIII. This transept is used at present as a chapel for the King's School, +a direct continuation of the monastery school, at which Archbishops +Winchelsea and Kemp were both educated. It contains the Corinthian throne +which was set up in the choir early in the last century. + +#The South-West Choir Aisle.#--At the corner of this aisle we may notice +the arcade which shows the combination of the Norman rounded arch and +double zigzag ornamentation with the pointed arch and dogtooth tracery of +William. Here also are two tombs, which have given rise to a good deal of +speculation. The more easterly one used to be regarded as the monument of +Hubert Walter, who was chancellor to Richard Coeur de Lion and followed +him and Archbishop Baldwin to Palestine, and, on the death of the latter, +was made primate in the camp at Acre: it is thought more probable, +however, in the light of recent research, that he is buried in the Trinity +Chapel. The other tomb used to be the resting place of Archbishop +Reynolds, the favourite of Edward II., but it also affords food for +discussion, as there is no trace of the "pall"--a Y-shaped strip of lamb's +wool marked with crosses, a special mark of metropolitan dignity which was +sent to each primate by the Pope--on the vestments of the effigy. Hence +conjecture doubts whether these tombs are tenanted by archbishops at all, +and inclines to the theory that they contain the bones of two of the +Priors, perhaps of d'Estria. From this point we can notice the ingenious +apparatus connected with the organ. + +#St. Anselm's Tower and Chapel.#--Proceeding eastward, towards the Trinity +Chapel, we pause to examine the chapel or tower of St. Anselm, which +corresponds to that of St. Andrew on the north side of the cathedral. Both +these chapels probably at one time were much more lofty, as they are +described as "lofty towers" by Gervase; it was in order to bring them into +the church, when it was reconstructed after the fire, that the eastward +contraction, which presents such a curious effect as seen from the choir, +was found necessary. They are now, as Willis points out, "only of the same +height as the clerestory of the Norman Church, to which they formed +appendages, and consequently they rose above the side-aisles of that +church as much as the clerestory did. The external faces of the inward +walls of these towers are now inclosed under the roof of William's +triforium, and it may be seen that they were once exposed to the weather." +The arches in St. Anselm's tower were originally set up by Ernulf, but +there is reason to believe that they were rebuilt after the great +conflagration. "The arch of communication," says Willis, "is a round +arch, at first sight plainly of the Ernulfian period, having plaited-work +capitals and mouldings with shallow hollows. A similar arch opens on the +eastern side of the tower into its apse. But a close examination will shew +that both these arches have undergone alteration.... I am inclined to +believe that both these arches were reset and reduced in space after the +fire, probably to increase their strength and that of their piers, on +account of the loss of abutment, when the circular wall of the choir-apse +was removed." The alterations that were made in these arches were probably +not important, and did not extend beyond the re-modelling of the mouldings +on the side of the arch towards the choir-aisle; for we may notice that +above both the arches we can still trace the notched decoration which is +peculiar to Ernulf's work. This chapel was originally dedicated to St. +Peter and St. Paul, and a very interesting relic of this saintly patronage +has lately been discovered. Apparently, in order to strengthen the +building, two of the three windows in the chapel were blocked up, and a +buttress was built across a chord of the apse, in the early part of the +thirteenth century. In the course of the restoration of the tower which +was recently carried out, this buttress was taken away, and its removal +laid bare a fresco painting, representing St. Paul and the viper at +Melita. This piece of decoration, as need hardly be said, must have been +put in before the construction of the buttress which has concealed and +preserved it for nearly seven centuries; it is conjectured, with a good +deal of reason, that a similar presentment of St. Paul +[Transcriber: St. Peter?] was painted at the same time on the opposite +wall, but as it had no buttress to protect it, it has been altogether +effaced. A copy of the fresco of St. Paul has been placed in the cathedral +library. The altar of SS. Peter and Paul stood at the east end, and behind +it was the tomb of the celebrated Archbishop Anselm, by whose name the +chapel is now commonly called. A very interesting feature of this tower +is a large and elaborate five-light window of the Decorated period. It +replaced the original south window of the chapel, and was inserted by +Prior d'Estria in 1336; it is remarkable as being one of the few instances +of Decorated architecture in the cathedral, and also because of the +detailed account that has been preserved of its erection and cost. The +passage in the archives runs as follows:--"Memorandum, that in the year +1336, there was made a new window in Christ Church, Canterbury, that is to +say, in the chapel of the Apostles St. Peter and St. Paul, upon which +there were expended the following sums: + + _£ s. d._ +"Imprimis, for the workmanship, or labour of the + masons 21 17 9 +Item, for the breaking down of the wall, where the + window now is 0 16 9 +----for lime and gravel 1 0 0 +----for 20 cwt. of iron bought for said window 4 4 0 +----for the labour of the smiths 3 5 4 +----for Caen stone bought for same 5 0 0 +----for glass and the labour of the glaziers 6 13 4 + ----------- + Total 42 17 2." + +On the heads of the lights of this window were pendent bosses, like those +of the door in the choir-screen, which, as has been said, was also the +work of Prior de Estria. These bosses and the stones from which they were +suspended, have altogether disappeared, otherwise the internal tracery of +the window is in good preservation. "The outside, however, is in a very +bad condition for the purpose of the antiquarian; for, apparently on +account of the decayed state of its surface, the tracery has undergone the +process of splitting, namely, the whole of the outer part has been faced +down to the glass, and fresh worked in Portland stone; Portland stone +mullions, or _monials_ as they are more properly called, have also been +supplied. And as this repair was executed at a period when this class of +architecture was ill understood, the mouldings were very badly wrought, +which, with the unfortunate colour and surface of the Portland stone, has +given the window a most ungenuine air. However, the interior is as good as +ever it was, and it is on account of its date, as well as for its beauty, +a most valuable example" (Willis). + +The insertion of the window in question probably had the effect of +weakening the walls of the chapel; at any rate they show signs of a +tendency to settle. Beneath it is the tomb of Archbishop Bradwardine, a +great scholar and divine, whose primacy only lasted three months. Opposite +to him lies Simon de Mepeham--archbishop from 1328 to 1333--whose tomb +forms the screen of the chapel. It is a black marble monument well worthy +of examination, with a double arcade and a richly decorated canopy; the +ornamentation has been greatly damaged, but the shattered remains show +traces of beautiful work. Mepeham's short primacy was brought to an +untimely end by the contumacy of Grandisson, Bishop of Exeter, who refused +to allow him to enter Exeter Cathedral, actually guarding the west door +with an armed force. The pope sided with the recalcitrant bishop, and +Mepeham died, according to Fuller, of a broken heart in consequence of +this humiliation. + +#The Watching Chamber.#--Above the Chapel of St. Anselm is a small room, +which is reached by a staircase from the north-west corner. A window in +it commands a view into the cathedral, and from this circumstance it has +been inferred that a watcher was stationed here at night to protect the +priceless treasures of St. Thomas's shrine from pillage by marauders. Some +doubt has been thrown on this assumption, since the site of the shrine is +not fully seen from the window, but the room is still generally known as +the Watching Chamber. Probably the shrine was much more efficiently +guarded than by the presence of a solitary monk in a chamber, from which +even if he could see thieves he certainly could not arrest them; for we +know that "on the occasion of fires the shrine was additionally guarded by +a troop of fierce ban-dogs" (Stanley). It is also said that King John of +France was imprisoned in this chamber during his stay at Canterbury, but +this is most unlikely, seeing that he was treated by the Black Prince more +as a sovereign than as a captive. + +[Illustration: SOME MOSAICS FROM THE FLOOR OF TRINITY CHAPEL.] + +#Trinity Chapel.#--Passing further east, we ascend the flight of steps, +deeply worn by innumerable pilgrims, and enter the precincts of the +Trinity Chapel. All this part of the cathedral, from the choir-screen +to the corona, was rebuilt from the ground, specially with a view to its +receiving the shrine of St. Thomas. It is still, however, called by the +name of the Trinity Chapel, which previously occupied this site, and was +burnt down by the fire which destroyed Conrad's choir. In this chapel +Thomas à Becket celebrated his first mass after his installation as +archbishop, and his remains were laid for some time in the crypt below +it. This portion of the building was all carried out under the direction +of English William. Gervase relates that when William of Sens, after his +accident, "perceiving that he derived no benefit from the physicians, +returned to his home in France," his successor, English William "laid the +foundation for the enlargement of the church at the eastern part, because +a chapel of St. Thomas was to be built there; for this was the place +assigned to him; namely the Chapel of the Holy Trinity, where he +celebrated his first mass--where he was wont to prostrate himself with +tears and prayers, under whose crypt for so many years he was buried, +where God for his merits had performed so many miracles, where poor and +rich, kings and princes, had worshipped him, and whence the sound of his +praises had gone out into all lands." As to the extent to which the second +William was guided by the plans of his predecessor we have no means of +judging accurately. Certainly the general outline of this part of the +building must have been arranged by William of Sens, for the contraction +of the choir, in order to preserve the width of the ancient Trinity Chapel +had been carried out up to the clerestory before his retirement. Willis +deals with the subject at some length: "Whether," he says, "we are to +attribute to the French artist the lofty elevation of the pavement of +the new chapel, by which also so handsome a crypt is obtained below, must +remain doubtful. The bases of his columns, as well as those of the shafts +against the wall are hidden and smothered by the platform at the top of +these steps and by the side steps that lead to Becket's chapel. This looks +like an evidence of a change of plan, and induces me to believe that the +lofty crypt below may be considered as the unfettered composition of the +English architect.... The Trinity Chapel of the Englishman is under the +influence of the French work of which it is a continuation, and +accordingly the same mouldings are employed throughout, and the triforium +and clerestory are continued at the same level; but the greater level of +the pavement wholly alters the proportion of the piers to their arches, +and gives a new and original, and at the same time a very elegant +character to this part of the church compared with the work of the +Frenchman, of which, at first sight, it seems to be a mere continuation. +The triforium also of this Trinity Chapel differs from that of the choir, +in that its four pointed arches instead of being, like them, included +under two circular ones, are set in the form of an arcade of four arches, +of two orders of mouldings each. The mouldings are the same as in the +choir, but the effect of their arrangement is richer. Also in the +clerestory two windows are placed over each pier-arch, instead of the +single window of the choir. The mixture of the two forms of arches is +still carried on, for although the semicircular arch is banished from +the triforium, it is adopted for the pier-arches. + +"However, in the side-aisles of the Trinity chapel, and in the corona, +our English William appears to have freed himself almost as completely +from the shackles of imitation, as was possible. In the side-aisles the +mouldings of the ribs still remain the same, but their management in +connection with the side walls, and the combination of their slender +shafts with those of the twin lancet windows, here for the first time +introduced into the building, is very happy. Slender shafts of marble are +employed in profusion by William of Sens, and Gervase expressly includes +them in his list of characteristic novelties. But here we find them either +detached from the piers, or combined with them in such a manner as to +give a much greater lightness and elegance of effect than in the work of +the previous architect. This lightness of style is carried still farther +in the corona, where the slender shafts are carried round the walls, and +made principal supports to the pier-arches, over which is placed a light +triforium and a clerestory; and it must be remarked that all the arches in +this part of the building are of a single order of mouldings, instead of +two orders as in the pier-arches and triforium of the choir." + +So much for the architectural details of the Trinity Chapel. To the +ordinary visitor its interest lies rather in the fact that it contained +Becket's shrine, and that we here see the curious old windows portraying +the sainted Archbishop's miracles, and what is, perhaps, most important of +all to many, #the tomb of Edward the Black Prince#. This monument is the +first feature that we notice as we enter by the south-west gate of the +chapel; it stands between the two first pillars, and by the side of the +site of the shrine. By the Prince's will he had left directions that he +should be buried in the crypt, where he had already founded a chantry, +at the time of his marriage with the "Fair Maid of Kent" in 1363. But for +some unknown reason, probably in order that the dead hero's bones might be +placed in the most sacred spot possible--he was laid to rest by the side +of the martyr, then in the zenith of his sanctity. One of the most +romantic figures in English history is that of Edward the Black Prince, +who "fought the French" as no Briton, except perhaps Nelson, has fought +them since; he was sixteen years old when he commanded the English army +in person at the battle of Cressy, and was wounded in the thickest of that +most sanguinary fray: ten years later, facing an army of 60,000 men with +a mere 8,000 behind him, he inflicted a still more severe defeat on the +French at Poitiers, and captured their king, whom he took with him to +Canterbury on his triumphant return to London. In all our list of national +heroes there is not one who upheld the prowess of the English arms more +gallantly than this mighty warrior who was cut off while still in the +flower of his years, leaving England to the miseries of sedition and civil +war. His tomb is one of the most impressive of such monuments. The gilding +and bright colours have almost entirely disappeared, but the striking +effect of the effigy is probably only enhanced by the solemn sombreness of +its present appearance. It is a figure clad in full armour, spurred and +helmeted, as the Prince had ordained by his will. The head rests on the +helmet and the hands are joined in the attitude of prayer. The face, which +is undoubtedly a portrait, is stern and masterful. "There you can see +his fine face with the Plantagenet features, the flat cheeks, and the +well-chiselled nose, to be traced, perhaps, in the effigy of his father in +Westminster Abbey, and his grandfather in Gloucester Cathedral." The tomb +itself is worthy to support the figure and guard the ashes of the Black +Prince. Carved on its side clearly, that all might read it, is the +inscription which he had himself chosen; it is in Norman French, which was +still the language spoken by the English Court, and in the same spirit +which moved the designer of Archbishop Chichele's tomb to portray the +living man and the mouldering skeleton, this epitaph contrasts the glories +of the Prince's life--his wealth, beauty, and power--with the decay and +corruption of the grave. It is distinctly pagan in thought, and reminds +one strongly of the laments of the dead Homeric heroes as they wail for +the joys of life and strength and lordship. Stanley states that it is +"borrowed, with a few variations, from the anonymous French translation of +the 'Clericalis Disciplina' of Petrus Alphonsus composed between the years +1106 and 1110." But it is strangely un-Christian in sentiment as a few +lines will show-- + + "Tiel come tu es, je autiel fu, tu seras tiel come je su, + De la mort ne pensay je mie, tant come j'avoy la vie. + En terre avoy grand richesse, dont je y fys grand noblesse, + Terre, mesons, et grand tresor, draps, chivalx, argent et or. + Mesore su je povres et cheitifs, perfond en la terre gys, + Ma grand beaute est tout alee, ma char est tout gastee + Moult est estroite ma meson, en moy ne si verite non, + Et si ore me veissez, je ne quide pas que vous deeisez + Que j'eusse onges hom este, si su je ore de tout changee." + +Below this inscription are ranged coats-of-arms, bearing the ostrich +feathers and the motto _Ich Diene_ ("I serve"), which, according to +time-honoured but unauthenticated tradition, the prince won from the blind +King of Bohemia, who was led into the thick of the fighting at Cressy, and +died on the field. Welsh archæologists, however, maintain that these words +are Celtic, and mean "behold the man;" their theory suggests that this was +the phrase used by Edward I. when he presented his firstborn son to the +Welsh people as their prince, and that the words thus became the motto of +the princes of Wales. This is a rather far-fetched piece of reasoning, and +one would certainly prefer to accept the more picturesque tradition which +connects the phrase with the glories of Cressy. The other word found on +these escutcheons--_Houmont_--is still more puzzling. We know that the +Black Prince was wont to sign himself _Houmont, Ich Diene_. Stanley +explains the combination gracefully, but not very convincingly. "If, as +seems most likely, they are German words, they exactly express what we +have seen so often in his life, the union of 'Hoch muth,' that is _high +spirit_, with 'Ich Dien,' _I serve_. They bring before us the very scene +itself after the battle of Poitiers, where, after having vanquished the +whole French nation, he stood behind the captive king, and served him like +an attendant." + +[Illustration: THE BLACK PRINCE'S TOMB +(FROM A PHOTOGRAPH BY CARL NORMAN AND CO.).] + +The tomb is surmounted by a canopy on which is painted an interesting +representation of the Trinity. The work is a good deal faded, but still +worthy of notice; the absence of the figure of the dove is curious, but is +not unparalleled in such designs. At the corners are symbols of the four +evangelists. The Holy Trinity--on whose feast-day he died--was held in +peculiar veneration by the Black Prince. The ordinance of the chantry +founded by him in the crypt contains the phrase, _Ad honorem Sancte +Trinitatis quam peculiari devocione semper colimus_. A curious metal +badge, preserved in the British Museum, is stamped with the figure of the +prince kneeling before the Almighty and our Saviour, whose representation +is almost identical with the design on the canopy over the tomb; here also +the figure of the dove is absent. Round the canopy and in the pillars we +can still see the hooks which upheld the black tapestry, bordered with +crimson and embroidered with _cygnes avec têtes de dames_, which was hung, +as ordained by his will, round the prince's tomb and Becket's shrine. + +[Illustration: SHIELD, COAT, ETC., OF THE BLACK PRINCE.] + +Lastly, above the canopy, on a cross-beam between two pillars, are +suspended the brazen gauntlets, the helmet, the wooden shield with its +moulded leather covering, the velvet coat emblazoned with the arms of +England and France, and the empty sheath. The gauntlets were once +embellished with little figures of lions on the knuckles; these have been +detached by "collectors," vandals almost as ruthless as Blue Dick and his +troopers, and without their excuse of mistaken religious zeal. The helmet +still has its original lining of leather, showing that it was actually +worn. The sword which fitted the now empty sheath is said to have been +taken away by Oliver Cromwell; it appeared in Manchester at the beginning +of this century under circumstances so curious, that we may be excused for +quoting the following letter from Canon Wray, given in Stanley's Appendix +on the Black Prince's will. "The sword, or supposed sword, of the Black +Prince, which Oliver Cromwell is said to have carried away, I have seen +and many times have had in my hands. There lived in Manchester, when I +first came here, a Mr. Thomas Barritt, a saddler by trade; he was a great +antiquarian, and had collected together helmets, coats of mail, horns, +etc., and many coins. But what he valued most of all was a sword: the +blade about two feet long, and on the blade was let in, in letters of +gold, 'EDWARDUS WALLIE PRINCEPS'.... He was in possession of this sword +A.D. 1794. He told me he purchased many of the ancient relics of a pedlar, +who travelled through the country selling earthenware, and I think he said +he got this sword from this pedlar. When Barritt died, in 1820, his +curiosities were sold by his widow at a raffle, but I believe this sword +was not amongst the articles so disposed of. It had probably been disposed +of beforehand, but to whom I never knew; yet I think it not unlikely that +it is still in the neighbourhood. The sword was a little curved, +scimitar-like, rather thick, broad blade, and had every appearance of +being the Black Prince's sword." Truly a most remarkable story. This +historic blade, which may have hewn down the French ranks at Poitiers, is +disposed of by an itinerant crockery vender to an antiquarian saddler; on +his death is, or is not, "sold at a raffle" and--vanishes! + +[Illustration: WEST GATE.] + +These arms that hang over the prince's tomb are all that are left of +two distinct suits, one for war, and one for use in the joust and the +ceremonials of peace, which were, according to directions given in the +will, carried in the funeral procession through the West Gate and along +the High Street to the cathedral. The pieces which remain all belong to +the suit worn in actual warfare. + +The centre of the chapel looks curiously blank, being left so by the +thoroughness with which all trace of Becket's shrine was removed by the +reforming zeal and insatiable rapacity of Henry VIII. and his minions. The +effect of the bare stone pavement presents an impressive contrast to the +vanished glories of the shrine blazing with gold and jewels, as we read of +it. (For a description of the shrine and its history, see Chapter I.) The +exact place on which it stood is plainly shown by the marks worn in the +stones by the knees of generations of pilgrims as they knelt before it, +while the prior, with his white wand, pointed out the choicest of its +treasures. To the west, between the altar-screen--the unhappy effect of +which is painfully conspicuous from this point--and the site of the +shrine, there is some very interesting mosaic pavement, containing the +signs of the zodiac, and emblems of virtue and vice, an example of the +_Opus Alexandrinum_, which appears in the floors of most of the Roman +basilicas. A similar piece of mosaic work may be seen round the shrine of +Edward the Confessor at Westminster. Above the eastern end of the shrine a +gilded crescent was fixed in the roof, which still remains; the origin and +meaning of this emblem have been disputed with considerable heat, and many +ingenious conjectures have been framed to account for its presence here. +One theory regards it as an allusion to the tradition according to which +Becket's mother was a Saracen. But this legend is believed to be +comparatively modern, and, as Mr. George Austin points out, "even if the +legend of Becket's mother had obtained credence at that early period, it +may be observed that in the painted windows around no reference is made +to the subject, though evidently capable of so much pictorial effect." +Another solution would connect the crescent with the worship of the Virgin +Mary, who is often pictured as standing on the moon (comp. Rev. xii. 1). +Supporters of this theory lay stress on the fact that the Trinity Chapel +at Canterbury occupies the extreme east end of the church, which is +generally the site of the Lady Chapel, and that therefore the presence of +this emblem--if it can be connected with the Virgin--would be peculiarly +appropriate here. Mr. Austin propounded the explanation which is now most +generally accepted. "When the groined roof," he says, "was relieved of the +long-accumulated coats of whitewash and repaired, the crescent was taken +down and regilt. It was found to be made of a foreign wood, somewhat like +in grain to the eastern wood known by the name of iron-wood. It had been +fastened to the groining by a large nail of very singular shape, with a +large square head, apparently of foreign manufacture." He comes to the +conclusion that the crescent is one of a number of trophies which he +supposes to have once decorated this part of the cathedral, and he is +led to his conclusion by the fact that "more than one fresco painting of +encounters with the Eastern infidels formerly ornamented the walls (the +last traces of which were removed during the restoration of the cathedral +under Dean Percy, afterwards Bishop of Carlisle), and in one of which the +green crescent flag of the enemy seems borne away by the English archers. +Might not these frescoes have depicted the fights in which these trophies +were won?" Also, in the hollows of the groining which radiate from the +crescent, there were a number of slight iron staples, which Mr. Austin, +having shown that they cannot have supported either hanging lamps or the +covering of the shrine, believes to have upheld flags, horsetails, etc., +which formed the trophy of which the gilded crescent was the centre. We +know that Becket received the title of St. Thomas Acrensis owing to his +close connection with the knights of the Hospital of St. John at Acre. But +none of these explanations seem very convincing, and the history and +significance of the crescent in the roof seem likely to remain a mystery. + +Before we turn from Becket and his shrine to the other monuments in the +Trinity Chapel, we must call the attention of our readers to the stained +windows which depict the miracles of the sainted martyr. The chapel was at +one time entirely surrounded with glass of this sort, but only a portion +has survived the ravages of the Puritans. "Of these windows," says Austin, +"unfortunately but three remain, but they are sufficient to attest their +rare beauty; and for excellence of drawing, harmony of colouring, and +purity of design, are justly considered unequalled. The skill with which +the minute figures are represented cannot even at this day be surpassed; +it is extraordinary to see how every feeling of joy or sorrow, pain and +enjoyment, is expressed both in feature and position. But in nothing is +the superiority of these windows shown more than the beautiful scrolls and +borders which surmount the windows, and gracefully connect the groups of +medallions." Most of these windows probably contained representations of +Becket, and so were doomed to destruction by the decree of Henry VIII., in +which "his Grace straitly chargeth and commandeth, that henceforth the +said Thomas Becket shall not be esteemed, named, reputed, nor called a +saint, but Bishop Becket, and that his images and pictures throughout the +whole realm shall be put down and avoided out of all churches and chapels, +and other places; and that from henceforth the days used to be festivals +in his name shall not be observed, nor the service, office, antiphonies, +collects and prayers in his name read, but rased and put out of all +books." This proclamation was rigorously carried out though the stained +windows which come within its terms have, in some cases, escaped +destruction. For instance there remains a window in the south transept of +Christ Church Cathedral, Oxford, representing the martyrdom of Becket, but +it is interesting to note that even here the archbishop's head was removed +from the glass. Three of the windows of the Trinity Chapel have survived, +and fragments of others are scattered over the glass of the building. They +are entirely devoted to depicting the miracles of the martyr, which began +immediately after his death and reception--according to a vision of +Benedict--in a place between the apostles and the martyrs, above even St. +Stephen. + +The window towards the east on the north side of the shrine is divided +into geometrical figures, each figure composed of a group of fine +medallions; every group tells the story of a miracle, or series of +miracles, performed by the influence of the saint. The lower group +portrays the story of a child who was drowned in the Medway, and +afterwards restored to life by the efficacy of the saint's blood mixed +with water. The first medallion shows the boy falling into the stream, +while his companions pelt the frogs in the reeds by the river side; the +next shows the companions relating the story of the accident to the boy's +parents, and in the third we see the grief-stricken parents watching their +son's corpse being drawn out of the river. "The landscape in these +medallions is exceedingly well rendered; the trees are depicted with +great grace" (Austin). Unfortunately the medallions which complete this +story have been destroyed. The next group depicts the quaint story of a +succession of miracles which were wrought in the family of a knight called +Jordan, son of Eisult. His ten year old boy died, and the knight, who had +been an intimate friend of Becket in his lifetime, resolved to try to +restore his son with water mixed with the saint's blood. At the third +draught, as Benedict tells the story, the dead boy "opened one eye, and +said, 'Why are you weeping, father? Why are you crying, lady? The blessed +martyr, Thomas, has restored me to you!' At evening he sat up, ate, +talked, and was restored." But the father forgot the vow which he made in +the first moment of joy at his son's recovery, namely, that he would offer +four silver pieces at the martyr's shrine before Mid Lent. And once more +all the household was stricken with sickness, and the eldest son died. +Then the parents, though sore smitten themselves, dragged themselves to +Canterbury and performed their vow. The whole of this story with other +details for which we have no space may be accurately traced on this unique +window. The most striking is the central medallion of the group in which +the vengeance of the saint is shown forth. In the middle of a large room +we see a bier on which lies the dead son; the father and mother, overcome +with despair, stand at the head and feet of the body. Behind the bier are +several figures, which, from their "unusually violent attitudes expressive +of grief," Mr. Austin considered to be professional mourners. Above, +unseen by the group below, the figure of St. Thomas, clad in full +episcopal robes, holding a sword in his right hand, and pointing to +the corpse with his left, is seen appearing through the ceiling. "The +expression," says Austin, "of the various figures in the above +compartments, both in gesture and feature, is rendered with great skill. +In the execution of this story, the points which, doubtless, the artists +of the monastery were chiefly anxious to impress upon the minds of the +devotees who thronged to the shrine are prominently brought out: the +extreme danger of delaying the performance of a vow, under whatever +circumstances made, the expiation sternly required by the saint, and the +satisfaction with which the martyr viewed money offerings made at the +shrine." + +One of the other groups is noteworthy as proving that severe penances were +sometimes performed before the shrine. One medallion shows a woman +prostrating herself before a priest at the altar, while two men stand +near, holding formidable-looking rods. The next picture represents the two +men vigorously flagellating the woman with the rods; while, in the third, +one of the men is still beating the woman, who now lies fainting on the +ground, while the other is addressing the priest, who sits hard by +composedly reading his book. The other two windows contain representations +of the healings effected by the saint, which seem to have been of a very +varied character, to judge from the catalogue with which Benedict sums +them up. "What position," he asks, "in the Church, what sex or age, what +rank or order is there, which could not find something beneficial to +itself [_aliquid sibi utile_] in this treasure-house of ours? Here the +light of truth is furnished to schismatics, confidence to timid pastors, +health to the sick, and pardon to the deserving penitent [_pænitentibus +venia ejus meritis_, the last two words probably implying an offering]. +The blind see, the lame walk, the lepers are cleansed, the deaf hear, the +dead rise again, the dumb speak, the poor have the gospel preached to +them, the paralytic recover, the dropsical lose their swellings +[_detumescunt hydropici_], the mad are restored to sense, the epileptic +are cured, the fever-stricken escape, and, to sum up, _omnimoda curatur +infirmitas_." + +The last of these windows to which we must call the special attention of +our readers is one on the north side, representing a vision which Benedict +tells us that he saw himself. The martyr is seen coming forth from his +shrine in full pontifical robes, and making his way towards the altar as +if to celebrate mass. This window is noticeable as containing the only +representation that now exists of the shrine itself--for the picture in +the Cottonian MSS. evidently shows us, not the shrine, but its outer +shell, or covering. "The medallion," says Austin, "is the more +interesting, from being an undoubted work of the thirteenth century; and +having been designed for a position immediately opposite to and within a +few yards of the shrine itself, and occupying the place of honour in the +largest and most important window, without doubt represents the main +features of the shrine faithfully." + +On the north side of the Trinity Chapel, immediately opposite the tomb of +the Black Prince, is that of King Henry IV., who died in 1413, and his +second consort, Joan of Navarre, who followed him in 1437. This king had +made liberal offerings towards the rebuilding of the nave of the +cathedral, and it has been conjectured that one of the figures on the +organ-screen represents him: his will ordered that he should be laid to +rest in the church at Canterbury, and here accordingly he was buried on +the Trinity Sunday after his death. The tomb, with its rich canopy, is a +beautiful piece of work, and the figures of the king and queen are +probably faithful representations. A curious story was circulated by the +Yorkists, to the effect that Henry was never buried here, but that his +body was thrown into the water between Gravesend and Barking, during the +voyage of the funeral _cortège_ to Faversham, and that only an empty +coffin was laid in the Trinity Chapel. That this point might be cleared +up, the tomb was opened in 1832 in the presence of the Dean, and there the +king was found in perfect preservation, and bearing a close resemblance to +the effigy on the monument--"the nose elevated, the beard thick and +matted, and of a deep russet colour, and the jaws perfect, with all the +teeth in them, except one foretooth." + +In the wall of the north aisle, just opposite the king's tomb, is a small +chapel, built according to the directions contained in his will "that ther +be a chauntre perpetuall with twey prestis for to sing and prey for my +soul." The roof shows the first piece of fan-vaulting admitted into the +cathedral. On the eastern wall an account is scratched of the cost of a +reredos which once stood here, but has been entirely destroyed: it tells +us that the cost of "ye middil image was xix^s 11^d." This chapel was +doubtless used at one time as a storehouse of sacred relics. Two recesses +in the west wall have lately been chosen to receive certain archiepiscopal +vestments which were discovered in a tomb on the south side of Trinity +Chapel, which was long believed to be that of Archbishop Theobald. + +To the east of Henry IV.'s monument is the tomb of Dean Wotton, adorned +with his kneeling figure. He was the first Dean of Canterbury after the +reorganization by Henry VIII. Opposite to him is an unsightly brick +erection which was once intended as a temporary covering for the remains +of Odo Coligny, Cardinal of Chatillon and brother of Admiral Coligny, who +was one of the victims of the massacre of St. Bartholomew. The Cardinal +fled from France in 1568, on account of his leanings towards the tenets of +the Huguenots, and was welcomed by Queen Elizabeth. It is believed that +he died from the effects of a poisoned apple given to him by a servant. It +seems curious that the French Huguenots who settled in Canterbury never +provided him with a more fitting monument. + +Between this tomb and that of the Black Prince is the monument of +Archbishop Courtenay, who was primate from 1381 to 1396, and was +celebrated for his severity towards Wycliffe and his followers. He was +a large contributor to the fund for the re-building of the nave, which +perhaps accounts for the distinguished position of his tomb; the fact also +that he was executor to the Black Prince may be responsible for his being +buried at his feet. It is not, however, certain that his body actually +lies here, though the ledger book of the cathedral states that he was +buried within the walls of the church. It is known, however, that he died +at Maidstone, and that he ordered in his will that his remains should rest +there, and a slab in the pavement of All Saints', Maidstone, shows traces +of a brass representing the figure of an archbishop, whence it has been +concluded that Courtenay was in fact buried there, and that his monument +in Canterbury is only a cenotaph. + +[Illustration: TRINITY CHAPEL, LOOKING INTO THE CORONA, "BECKET'S CROWN," +WITH CHAIR OF ST. AUGUSTINE.] + +#Becket's Crown.#--The circular apse at the extreme east end of the church +is known as Becket's Crown. The name has caused a good deal of discussion. +The theory once generally received was to the effect that the portion of +Becket's skull which was cut away by Richard le Breton was preserved here +as a relic of special sanctity. We know that the Black Prince bequeathed, +by his will, tapestry hangings for the High Altar and for three others, +viz., "l'autier la ou Mons'r Saint Thomas gist--l'autier la ou la teste +est--l'autier la ou la poynte de l'espie est." The first and last are +evidently the altars at the shrine and in the Chapel of the Martyrdom, and +it has been contended that the altar "where the head is" was the altar of +which traces may still be seen in the pavement of the corona, or Becket's +Crown. Against this notion we must place the authority of Erasmus, whose +words plainly show that the martyr's head was displayed in the crypt: +"_hinc digressi subimus cryptoporticum: illic primum exhibetur calvaria +martyris perforata_ (the martyr's pierced tonsure): _reliqua tecta sunt +argento, summa cranii pars nuda patet osculo_." While Willis considers +that the term corona was a common one for an apse at the end of a +church, citing "Ducange's Glossary," which defines "Corona Ecclesiæ" as +_Pars templi choro postica, quod ea pars fere desinat in circulum_; "at +all events," he concludes, "it was a general term and not peculiar to +Christ Church, Canterbury. The notion that this round chapel was called +Becket's Crown, because part of his skull was preserved here as a relic, +appears wholly untenable. There is at least no doubt that a relic of +some sort was preserved here, because we know from a record of the +offerings--Oblaciones S. Thomæ--during ten years in the first half of the +thirteenth century, that the richest gifts were made at the shrine and in +the corona. And we know that the spot was one of peculiar sanctity from +the fact that the shrines of St. Odo and St. Wilfrid were finally +transferred thither. _Corpus S. Odonis in feretro, ad coronam versus +austrum. Corpus S. Wilfridi in feretro ad coronam versus aquilonem._" + +[Illustration: CHAIR OF ST. AUGUSTINE.] + +On the north side of the corona is the tomb of Cardinal Pole, the last +Archbishop of Canterbury who acknowledged the supremacy of the Pope. He +held office from 1556 to 1558, and died the day after Queen Mary. Here +stands also the patriarchal chair, made out of three pieces of Purbeck +marble. It is called St. Augustine's chair, and is said to be the throne +on which the old kings of Kent were crowned; according to the tradition, +Ethelbert, on being converted, gave the chair to Augustine, from whom it +has descended to the Archbishops of Canterbury. It is needless to say +that this eminently attractive legend has been attacked and overthrown +by modern criticism. It is pointed out that the original archiepiscopal +throne was of one piece only, and that Purbeck marble did not come into +use until some time after Augustine's death. From its shape it is +conjectured that the chair dates from the end of the twelfth century or +the beginning of the thirteenth, and that it may have been constructed for +the ceremony of the translation of St. Thomas' relics. It is in this +chair, and not in the archiepiscopal throne in the choir, that the +archbishops are still enthroned. From the corona we have a view of the +full length of the cathedral, which measures 514 feet, and is one of the +longest of English cathedrals. Of the windows in Becket's Crown, the +centre one is ancient, while the rest are modern and afford a most +instructive contrast. + +#St. Andrew's Tower, or Chapel.#--Leaving the Trinity Chapel, and +descending the steps, we find on our right the door of St. Andrew's Chapel +which is now used as a vestry. Formerly, it was the sacristy, a place from +which the pilgrims of humble rank were excluded, but where those of wealth +and high station were allowed to gaze at a great array of silken vestments +and golden candlesticks, and also the Martyr's pearwood pastoral staff with +its black horn crook, and his cloak and bloodstained kerchief. Here also +was a chest "cased with black leather, and opened with the utmost +reverence on bended knees, containing scraps and rags of linen with which +(the story must be told throughout) the saint wiped his forehead and blew +his nose" (Stanley). Erasmus describes this exhibition with a touch of +scorn. "_Fragmenta linteorum lacera plerumque macci vestigium servantia. +His, ut aiebant, vir pius extergebat sudorem e facie_," etc. The walls of +this chapel show many traces of fresco decoration: the pattern seems to +have consisted of a clustering vine tree spread over the roof. In the +north wall is a Norman chamber which originally served as the Treasury; +the door is still secured by three locks, the keys of which were held by +different officials. St. Andrew's Chapel is part of Ernulf's work, and the +peculiar ornamentation which marks his hand may be noticed over the arch +of the apse which terminates it. + +#The North-East Transept.#--Passing along the choir aisle, we see the old +Bible desk, holding the Bible which was originally placed there, and was +restored to this position by the late Bishop Parry. Next we enter the +north-east transept, which in its architectural features is practically a +repetition of the south-east transept, with which we have already dealt. +The monument to Archbishop Tait, designed by Boehm, is well worthy of its +surroundings. Above it, in the north wall, about ten feet from the ground, +we may notice three slits in the wall. These are what are called +hagioscopes. On the other side of the wall was a recess connected with the +Prior's Chapel. Through these hagioscopes--or "holy spy-holes"--the prior +could see mass being celebrated at the high altar and at the altars below +in the transept, without entering the cathedral. These transeptal altars +are in the Chapels of St. Martin and St. Stephen which occupy two apses in +the eastern wall. St. Martin is represented in a medallion of ancient +glass preserved in the modern window, as dividing his coat with a beggar. +Scratched on the walls are the names "Lanfrancus" and "Ediva Regina;" the +bodies of Lanfranc and Queen Ediva were removed to this transept after the +fire. Lanfranc originally lay in the old Trinity Chapel, and when this +building was levelled to the ground, he was "carried to the vestiarium in +his leaden covering, and there deposited until the community should decide +what should be done with so great a Father." Apparently the heavy sheet of +lead was removed, for Gervase goes on to say that "Lanfranc having +remained untouched for sixty-nine years, his very bones were consumed with +rottenness, and nearly all reduced to powder. The length of time, the damp +vestments, the natural frigidity of lead, and above all the frailty of the +human structure, had conspired to produce this corruption. But the larger +bones, with the remaining dust, were collected in a leaden coffer, and +deposited at the altar of St. Martin." Queen Ediva, as we learn from the +same authority, "who before the fire reposed under a gilted _feretrum_ in +nearly the middle of the south cross, was now deposited at the altar of +St. Martin, under the _feretrum_ of Living," an archbishop who died in +1020. Ediva, the wife of Edward the Elder, and a generous benefactress +to the cathedral, died about 960. + +From an early list of the subjects represented in the windows of the +cathedral, it appears that the north windows of the north-east transept +depicted the Parable of the Sower. The ancient glass, however, has been +displaced, and a good deal of it has been moved to the windows of the +north choir aisle, between the transept and the Chapel of the Martyrdom, +which are of great beauty, and should be examined carefully. In the +transept itself are windows in memory of Dean Stanley, Dr. Spry, and +Canon Cheshyre. + +On the wall of the choir aisle, close to the transept, we can trace the +remains of a fresco representing the conversion of St. Hubert. Further on, +there hangs a picture, by Cross, which is intended to represent the murder +of Becket. As a work of art it is not without merit, but its details are +entirely inaccurate. + +#The North-West Transept, or Chapel of the Martyrdom.#--The actual site +of the tragedy which rendered Becket and his cathedral famous throughout +Christendom was the North-West Transept, or as it was more commonly called +the Chapel of the Martyrdom. Hardly any portion, however, of this +structure as it stands actually witnessed the murder. In the time of +Becket the transept was of two storeys, divided by a vault, which was +upheld by a single pillar. The upper partition was dedicated to St. +Blaise, and the lower to St. Benedict. In the west wall, as now, was +a door which opened into the cloister. + +[Illustration: THE MARTYRDOM, NORTH-WEST TRANSEPT.] + +The story of Becket and his quarrel with Henry II. will be dealt with +in the next chapter. But before examining the spot on which he was +assassinated it is perhaps fitting to recall the events which immediately +preceded his death. Henry's wrathful exclamation, which stirred the four +knights to set out on their bloodthirsty mission, is well known. Whatever +we may think of the methods employed by these warriors--Fitzurse, de +Moreville, de Tracy, and le Bret were their names--we must at least +concede that they were gifted with undaunted courage. To slay an anointed +archbishop in his own cathedral was to do a deed from which the boldest +might well shrink, in the days when excommunication was held to be a +living reality, and the Church was believed to hold the power of eternal +blessing or damnation in her hand. These men--who were all closely +attached to the king's person, and were sometimes described as his +"cubicularii," or Grooms of the Bedchamber--arrived at the gate of the +archbishop's palace in the afternoon of Tuesday, December 29th, 1170. With +a curious want of directness they seem to have left their swords outside, +and entered, and had a stormy interview with Becket; enraged by his +unyielding firmness, they went back for their weapons, and in the +meantime the archbishop was hurried by the terrified monks through the +cloister and into the cathedral, where the vesper service was being held. +The knights quickly forced their way after him, and the monks locked and +barricaded the cloister door. But Becket, who bore himself heroically +through the whole scene, insisted that the door should be thrown open, +exclaiming that "the church must not be turned into a castle." Then all +the monks but three fled in terror. Those who stayed urged Becket to hide +himself in the crypt or in the Chapel of St. Blaise above. But he would +not hear of concealment, but preferred to make his way to the choir that +he might die at his post by the high altar. As he went up the steps +towards the choir the knights rushed into the transept, calling for "the +archbishop, the traitor to the king," and Becket turned and came down, and +confronted them by the pillar of the chapel. Clad in his white rochet, +with a cloak and hood over his shoulders, he faced his murderers, who were +now girt in mail from head to foot. They tried to seize him and drag him +out of the sacred precinct, but he put his back against the pillar and +hurled Tracy full-length on the pavement. Then commending his cause and +the cause of the Church "to God, to St. Denys, the martyr of France, to +St. Alfege, and to the saints of the Church," he fell under the blows of +the knights' swords. The last stroke was from the hand of le Bret, it +severed the crown of the archbishop's head, and the murderer's sword was +shivered into two pieces. Then the assassins left the church, ransacked +the palace, and plundered its treasures, and, lastly, rode off on horses +from the stables, in which Becket had to the last taken especial pride. + +Such is the brief outline of the events of this remarkable tragedy, for +a fuller account of which we must refer our readers to the excellent +description in Stanley's "Memorials of Canterbury." As we have already +said, the present transept has been entirely rebuilt; although not damaged +by the fire, it was reconstructed by Prior Chillenden at the time when he +erected the present nave. It is even doubtful whether the present pavement +is the same as that which was trodden by Becket and his murderers. A small +square stone is still shown in the floor of the transept, as marking the +exact spot on which the archbishop fell; it is said to have been inserted +in place of the original piece which was taken out and sent to Rome, but +there is little or no authority for this statement. On the other hand, we +read that Benedict, when he became Abbot of Peterborough, in order to +supply his new cathedral with relics, in which it was sadly deficient, +came back to Canterbury and carried off the stones which had been +sprinkled with St. Thomas's blood, and made therewith two altars for +Peterborough. + +In this transept an altar was erected, called the Altar of the Martyrdom, +or the Altar of the Sword's Point (_altare ad punctum ensis_), from the +fact that upon it was laid the broken fragment of le Bret's sword, which +had been left on the pavement. Also, a portion of the martyr's brains were +kept under a piece of rock crystal, and a special official, called the +Custos Martyrii, was appointed to guard these relics. + +The chief window in this chapel was presented by Edward IV.; in it we can +still see the figures of himself and his queen and his two daughters, and +the two young princes who were murdered in the Tower. It originally +contained representations of "seven glorious appearances" of the Virgin, +and Becket himself in the centre, but all this portion was destroyed by +Blue Dick, the Puritan zealot. The west window was the gift of the Rev. +Robert Moore, sometime Canon of Canterbury; it is an elaborate piece of +work depicting Becket's martyrdom and scenes in his life. + +Here also we see the very beautiful and interesting monument to Archbishop +Peckham (1279-1292), the oldest Canterbury monument which survives in its +entirety; even it has been encroached upon by the commonplace erection +adjoining it, which commemorates Warham who was archbishop from 1503 to +1532, and was the friend of Erasmus. + +#The Dean's Chapel.#--Eastward of the north-west transept is the chapel +which was formerly known as the Lady Chapel, but has latterly been named +the Dean's Chapel from the number of deans whose monuments have been +placed here. It stands on the site of the Chapel of St. Benedict, and was +built by Prior Goldstone, who dedicated it to the Blessed Virgin in 1460. +The usual place for the Lady Chapel in cathedrals is, of course, at the +extreme east end; but at Canterbury the situation was occupied by the +shrine of St. Thomas. The principal altar to the Virgin in our cathedral +was that in the crypt, in the "Chapel of Our Lady Undercroft." The +vault of the Dean's Chapel is noticeable. It is a fan vault, of the style +developed to so great perfection in the Tudor period, as shown in Henry +VII.'s Chapel at Westminster, and in the roof of the staircase leading to +the dining-hall of Christ Church, Oxford. The architecture of this chapel +is Perpendicular in style, and its delicate decoration should be carefully +noticed; the screen which separates it from the Martyrdom Transept is also +worthy of close attention. The monuments here are interesting rather than +beautiful. Dean Fotherby is commemorated by a hideous erection bristling +with skulls. Dean Boys is represented as he died, sitting among his books +in his library; it is curious that the books are all apparently turned +with the backs of the covers towards the wall, and the edges of the leaves +outwards. Here also is the monument of Dean Turner, the faithful follower +of Charles I. + +[Illustration: PART OF SOUTH-WESTERN TRANSEPT.] + +#The South-West Transept.#--Crossing the cathedral through the passage +under the choir steps, we find ourselves in the south-west transept, +which, together with the nave and the north-west transept, was rebuilt +by Prior Chillenden. In the pavement we see memorial stones to canons +and other departed worthies. Among them is the tombstone of Meric Casaubon, +Archbishop Laud's prebendary, and son of Isaac Casaubon, the famous +scholar. + +#St. Michael's, or the Warrior's Chapel.#--Eastward of the south-west +transept is a small chapel, generally known as that of St. Michael. In +position and size it closely corresponds with the Dean's Chapel on the +north side of the church. In general style there is also some resemblance, +but the vaulting of the roof is quite different; it is described by +Professor Willis as "as a complex lierne vault of an unusual pattern, but +resembling that of the north transept of Gloucester Cathedral, which dates +from 1367 to 1372." The exact date and the name of the builder of this +chapel are alike uncertain, but it probably replaced the old Chapel of St. +Michael at some time towards the end of the fourteenth century, and Willis +comes to the conclusion that it is most probable that its erection may be +ascribed to Prior Chillenden, and that "it formed part of the general +scheme for the transformation of the western part of the church." + +A curious effect is presented by the tomb of Stephen Langton, who was +archbishop from 1207 to 1228, and is famous as having compelled King John +to sign the Great Charter, and also as having divided the Bible into +chapters. His tomb, shaped like a stone coffin, is half in the chapel and +half under the eastern wall, and Professor Willis considers that it was +originally outside the wall, in the churchyard; "and thus the new wall, +when the chapel was rebuilt and enlarged in the fourteenth century, was +made to stride over the coffin by means of an arch." The reverence in +which Langton's memory was held is attested by the fact that his remains +must have lain under the altar of the chapel, a most unusual position +except in the case of celebrated saints. In the middle of the chapel is a +very beautiful and interesting monument erected by Margaret Holland, who +died in 1437, to the memory of her two husbands and herself. The monument +is of alabaster and marble, and represents the lady reposing with her +first spouse, John Beaufort, Earl of Somerset, and son of John of Gaunt, +on her left, and Thomas, Duke of Clarence, her second husband, on her +right. The latter was the second son of Henry IV., and, so, nephew of John +of Somerset the first husband; he was killed at the battle of Baugé in +1421. Leland thinks that this chapel was built expressly for the reception +of this tomb: "This chapel be likelihood was made new for the Honor of +Erle John of Somerset," but it is probably of rather earlier date than +would be allowed by this theory. The figures of Margaret and her two lords +are very fine and are interesting examples of fifteenth century costume. +As such they may be contrasted with the effigy of Lady Thornhurst, who +exhibits all the beauty of an Elizabethan ruff. Sir Thomas Thornhurst, +whose monument is hard by, was killed in the ill-fated expedition to the +Isle of Rhé. In the corner of the chapel is the bust of Sir George Rooke, +Vice-Admiral, who led the assault on Gibraltar by which it was first +captured. And the title of "Warrior's" Chapel is further justified by the +presence here of tattered standards, memorials of dead comrades, left by +the famous Kentish regiment, "the Buffs." + +[Illustration: THE CRYPT.] + +#The Main Crypt.#--Returning through the passage under the steps that lead +up to the choir, we turn to the right into the crypt which originally +supported Conrad's "glorious choir." On the wall as we enter we may notice +some diaper-work ornamentation, interesting from the fact that a similar +decoration may be traced on the wall of the chapter house at Rochester +for Ernulf who built the westward crypt, was afterwards made Bishop of +Rochester. Willis tells us that there are five crypts in England under the +eastern parts of cathedrals, namely, at Canterbury, Winchester, +Gloucester, Rochester, and Worcester, and that they were all founded +before 1085. "After this they were discontinued except as a continuation +of former ones, as in Canterbury and Rochester." This crypt of Ernulf's +replaced the earlier one set up by Lanfranc; Willis thinks it not +impossible that the whole of the pier-shafts may have been taken from the +earlier crypt. "The capitals of the columns are either plain blocks or +sculptured with Norman enrichments. Some of them, however, are in an +unfinished state." He describes minutely one of the capitals on the +south-west side. "Of the four sides of the block two are quite plain. One +has the ornament roughed out, or "bosted" as the workmen call it, that is, +the pattern has been traced upon the block, and the spaces between the +figures roughly sunk down with square edges preparatory to the completion. +On the fourth side, the pattern is quite finished. This proves that the +carving was executed after the stones were set in their places, and +probably the whole of these capitals would eventually have been so +ornamented had not the fire and its results brought in a new school +of carving in the rich foliated capitals, which caused this merely +superficial method of decoration to be neglected and abandoned. In the +same way some of the shafts are roughly fluted in various fashions. The +plain ones would probably have all gradually had the same ornament given +to them, had not the same reasons interfered." The crypt then stands as +it was left by Ernulf except that some of the piers were afterwards +strengthened and one new pillar was inserted in the aisle by William of +Sens, in order to fit in with the new arrangement of the pillars in the +choir which he was then rebuilding. It is therefore, of course, the oldest +part of the church, and remains a most beautiful and interesting relic of +Norman work in spite of the hot water pipe apparatus which now disfigures +it, and its general air of unkempt untidiness. There are signs, however, +that in this respect there is likely to be some improvement. The floor is +being lowered to its original level by the removal of about a foot of +accumulated dirt which had been heaping itself up for the last eight +hundred years and had at last entirely smothered the bases of the columns, +and it is even whispered that the part now cut off and used as the French +church, may be opened out and restored to its original position as part of +the main crypt. + +According to Gervase, the whole of the crypt was dedicated to the Virgin +Mary. Here stood the Chapel of Our Lady Undercroft, surrounded by +Perpendicular stone-work screens, from which the altar-screen in the choir +above was imitated. The shrine of the Virgin was exceedingly rich and was +only shown to privileged worshippers: traces of decoration may still be +seen in the vault above. It was at the back of this shrine that Becket +was laid between the time of his murder and his translation to the +resting-place in the Trinity Chapel. + +In the main crypt we may notice the monument of Isabel, Countess of Athol, +who died in 1292; she was heiress of Chilham Castle, near Canterbury, and +grand-daughter of King John. She was twice married, her second husband +being Alexander, brother of John Baliol, King of Scotland. The monument +of Lady Mohun of Dunster is in the south screen of the Chapel of Our Lady. +She was ancestress of the present Earl of Derby, and founded a perpetual +chantry. Lastly, here is the tomb of Cardinal Archbishop Morton, the +friend of Sir Thomas More, and the faithful servant of the House of +Lancaster; it was he who brought about the union of the Red and White +Roses by arranging the marriage of Henry of Richmond with Elizabeth of +York. As Henry VII.'s Chancellor he made great exactions under the +euphonious title of "Benevolences," and propounded the famous dilemma +known as "Morton's Fork," by which he argued that those who lived lavishly +must obviously have something to spare for the king's service, while those +who fared soberly must be grown rich on their savings, and so were equally +fair game to the royal plunderer. He lies in the south-west corner of the +crypt, and his monument, which has suffered considerably at the hands of +the Puritans, bears the Tudor portcullis and the archbishop's rebus, a +hawk or _mort_ standing on a tun. + +[Illustration: ST. GABRIEL'S CHAPEL.] + +In the south-east corner, under Anselm's Tower, is a chapel generally +known as that of St. John, sometimes as that of St. Gabriel. It has been +divided into two compartments by a wall. There are some very interesting +paintings[2] on the roof, representing Our Lord in the centre of the +angelic host, the Adoration of the Magi, and a figure of St. John; this +work is believed to be of the thirteenth century. The central pillar of +this chapel, with the curved fluting in the column and the quaintly +grotesque devices of the figures carved on the capital, is well worthy of +close examination. The grate that we see here was erected by the French +Protestants, large numbers of whom fled to England during the persecution +which was instituted against their sect in 1561. They were welcomed by +Queen Elizabeth, and allowed to settle in Canterbury, where the cathedral +crypt was made over to them to use as a weaving factory. It is possible +that the ridges in the floor of St. John's Chapel are marks left by their +looms, but more evident trace of their occupation is afforded by the +inscriptions in French painted on the pillars and arches of the main +crypt, and again by the custom which still survives of holding a French +service in the south aisle of the crypt; this part has been walled off +especially as a place of worship for the descendants of the French exiles, +and here service is still held in the French tongue. Alterations have been +lately made by which the French service is held in the Black Prince's +Chantry, and the part of the crypt formerly walled off has been merged +with the rest of the crypt, which is thus completely thrown open. Access +to the French church is now obtained from the crypt, and not from outside. +This chantry was founded by the Black Prince in 1363 to commemorate his +marriage with his cousin Joan, the "Fair Maid of Kent." Here, according to +the prince's ordinance, two priests were to pray for his soul, in his +lifetime and after; the situation of the two altars, at which the priests +prayed, can still be traced. On the vaulting we see the arms of the +prince, and of his father, and what seems to be the face of his wife. In +return for the permission to institute this chantry, the prince left to +the monastery of Canterbury an estate which still belongs to the Chapter, +the manor of Fawkes' Hall. This was a piece of land in South Lambeth, +which had been granted by King John to a baron called Fawkes. His name +still survives in the word "Vauxhall." + + [2] The above paintings are illustrated in Dart's "History of + Canterbury," 1726, and in "Archæologia Cantiana," vol. xviii. + +[Illustration: IN THE MAIN CRYPT, WITH TOMB OF CARDINAL MORTON +(see p. 99).] + +#The Eastern Crypt.#--The eastern portion of the crypt, under the Trinity +Chapel and the corona, is a good deal more lofty than Ernulf's building. +We noticed the ascent from the choir and presbytery to the Trinity Chapel, +and it is, of course, this greater elevation of the cathedral floor at the +east end which accounts for the greater height of the eastern crypt. The +effect, both above and below, is exceedingly happy. The most striking +thing about the interior of the cathedral is the manner in which it +rises--"church piled upon church"--from the nave to the corona, and this +characteristic enabled William the Englishman to build a crypt below which +has none of the cramped squatness which generally mars the effect of such +buildings. "The lofty crypt below," says Willis, "may be considered the +unfettered composition of the English architect. Its style and its details +are wholly different from those of William of Sens. The work, from its +position and office, is of a massive and bold character, but its unusual +loftiness prevents it from assuming the nature of a crypt.... There is one +detail of this crypt which differs especially from the work above. The +abacus of each of the piers, as well as that of each central shaft, is +round; but in the whole of the choir the abacuses are either square, or +square with the corners cut off." + +It was in the smaller eastern crypt, which formerly occupied the site of +William's building which we are now examining, that Becket was hastily +buried after his assassination, when his murderers were still threatening +to come and drag his body out, "hang it on a gibbet, tear it with horses, +cut it into pieces, or throw it in some pond to be devoured by swine or +birds of prey." And from that time until the translation of the relics in +1220, this was the most sacred spot in the cathedral, and it was known, +down to Reformation times, as "Becket's tomb." Hither came the earliest +pilgrims in the first rush of enthusiasm for the newly-canonized martyr. +And here Henry II. performed that penance, which is one of the most +striking examples of the Church's power presented by history. We are told +that he placed his head and shoulder in the tomb, and there received five +strokes from each bishop and abbot who was present, and three from each of +the eighty monks. After this castigation he spent the night in the crypt, +fasting and barefooted. His penitence and piety were rewarded by the +victory gained at Richmond, on that very day, by his forces over William +the Lion of Scotland, who was taken prisoner, and afterwards, recognizing +the power of the saint, founded the abbey of Aberbrothwick to Saint Thomas +of Canterbury. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE HISTORY OF THE SEE. + + +The history of the See of Canterbury may be said to have begun with the +coming of Augustine, for there can be no doubt that it is owing to its +being the settling-place of the first messengers of the gospel in Saxon +England that Canterbury has been the metropolis of the English Church. +Pope Gregory, with his usual thoroughness, sent to Augustine, soon after +his arrival here, an elaborate scheme for the division of our island +into sees, which were to be gradually developed as Christianity spread. +According to his arrangement, there were to be two archbishops, one at +London and one at York. But we cannot regret that this scheme was not +carried out, as an archiepiscopal see is much more picturesquely framed by +the hills which encircle Canterbury than it could have been by the dingy +vastness of the political and social capital. + +#Augustine# reached England in 597, and found that his path had been made +easy by the fact that Bertha, wife of Ethelbert, King of Kent, was a +Christian. He soon effected the conversion of the king himself, and his +labours were so rapidly successful that at Christmas, 597, no less than +ten thousand Saxons were baptized at the mouth of the Medway. The +archiepiscopal pall, and a papal Bull, creating Augustine first English +archbishop, were duly sent from Rome, and the royal palace in Canterbury, +with an old church--Roman or British--close by, were handed over to him by +Ethelbert. The first archbishop died in 605, and was buried, according to +the old Roman custom, by the side of the high road which had brought him +to Canterbury. A few years later, however, his remains were transferred to +the Abbey of SS. Peter and Paul, which had then just been completed. + +Augustine was succeeded by one of the monks who had originally come with +him from Rome. The new archbishop's name was #Lawrence#; he had been +already consecrated by Augustine in his lifetime. This unusual measure was +thought to be necessary, as the Church had hardly yet established itself in +a strong position. Indeed, so weak was its hold over its rapidly acquired +converts, that when Ethelbert's son, who succeeded his father in 616, +backslid into the path of heathendom, the great majority of the people +followed the royal example, and Lawrence, together with the Bishops of +London and Rochester, prepared to leave England altogether, as a country +hopelessly abandoned to paganism. However, the archbishop determined to +make one more attempt to maintain his position, and succeeded in +terrifying the king, by a pretended miracle, into becoming a Christian. He +then recalled the two bishops who had already crossed to France, and on +his death, in 619, was succeeded by the Bishop of London, #Mellitus#. +Mellitus only held the Primacy till 624, when his place was filled by +#Justin#, who also had a brief archiepiscopal life, being succeeded in 627 +by #Honorius#. This archbishop held the see for twenty-six years, till 653, +and it was not until 655 that his successor was appointed. + +So far the archbishops had all been foreigners who had come over either +with Augustine or with the second company of missionaries who were +despatched by Gregory soon after Ethelbert's conversion. In 655, however, +a native Englishman, named Frithona, was consecrated by the Saxon Bishop +of Rochester, and adopted the name of #Deus Dedit#. He ruled at Canterbury +till 664, and after his death the see remained vacant for four years, +probably owing to the plague which was then wasting all Europe, and caused +the death of Wighard, a Saxon, who had started for Rome to receive his +consecration there. But in 668, #Theodore#, a native of Tarsus in Cecilia, +was appointed, and was welcomed by the members of the torn and divided +English Church. He devoted all his energy to centralizing and +consolidating the power of the archbishop, which had been hitherto largely +nominal. He journeyed all over England, correcting the prevalent laxity of +discipline and establishing the control of the metropolitan authority. He +went so far as to interfere with the Archbishopric of York, and with the +help of the king attempted to divide it into three sees. He was, +moreover, an enthusiastic scholar, and first diffused the study of Greek +in England. He had brought a copy of Homer with him, and is said to have +established a school of Greek in Canterbury. He died in 690, and after his +death there was no archbishop for three years. In 693, one #Brethwald#, an +English monk, some time Abbot of Reculver, was appointed to the see. The +Saxon Church shows that it had benefited by Theodore's rigorous +discipline, in that it was henceforth able to supply its own archbishops; +it had now securely established itself all over the country, and the last +home of paganism, which, curiously enough, held its own longest in Sussex, +had been finally converted in Theodore's time. Brethwald ruled till 731, +and was followed by #Tatwin# (731-734) and #Nothelm# (734-740). In 740 +#Cuthbert# became archbishop. He seems to have been an interesting +personage with a good deal of zeal for reform; he is recorded to have +assembled a synod at Cliff to discuss measures for the improvement of the +lives and behaviour both of clergy and laity. Probably at his instigation +the synod ordained that the Lord's Prayer and the Creed should be taught in +the vulgar tongue; he was the first archbishop buried in the cathedral. He +was succeeded by #Bregwin#, who held the see from 759 to 765. He was an +exception among the series of English primates, being of German origin. +During the rule of the next archbishop, #Jaenbert#, an attempt was made +to transfer the primacy from Canterbury. Offa, the King of Mercia, had +established himself in a position of commanding power, and wishing that +the seat of the chief ecclesiastical authority should be within his own +dominion, obtained a Bull from Pope Adrian I. by which an Archbishop of +Lichfield was created, with a larger see than that of Canterbury. Jaenbert +seems to have acquiesced, though doubtless most unwillingly, in this +arrangement, but in spite of the central situation of Lichfield, the +traditional claims of Canterbury were too strong, and Adulf was the first +and last Archbishop of Lichfield. #Athelard#, who succeeded Jaenbert in +790, had the primacy restored to him. The Northmen began their raids on the +English coasts at this time, and their ravages probably continued through +the days of his successors, #Wulfred#, #Feologild#, #Ceolnoth#, and +#Ethelred# (805-889). + +In 889 the learned #Plegmund#, formerly tutor of Alfred, was by his quondam +pupil's influence made Archbishop of Canterbury. It was during his time +that the sees of Wells for Somerset and Crediton for Devonshire were +established. + +#Athelm# (914-923). + +#Wulfhelm# (923-942). + +#Odo# (942-959), called "the severe," was born a pagan Dane of East +Anglia, but having been received into a noble Saxon family, was duly +baptized into the faith. He was appointed to the Wiltshire bishopric by +Athelstane, and combined in his person the characters of the warlike Dane +and the Christian churchman. Like his successor Dunstan, Odo made his +chief objects in life the maintenance of the Church's supremacy and the +reformation of the married clergy. He bore his archbishopric with much +pomp and dignity through the reigns of Edmund, Edred, and Edwy. He was +responsible for Dunstan's conduct on the occasion of King Edwy's +coronation, though it is not known how far he sanctioned the cruelties +subsequently practised on Elgiva. Odo reconstructed and enlarged the +cathedral. + +His immediate successor was #Elsi#, Bishop of Winchester, but this +archbishop died while on his way to Rome to receive his pall from the +Pope. + +#Dunstan# (960-988), the next archbishop, continued Odo's crusade against +the married clergy, which he conducted relentlessly. In many cases the +secular clergy were turned out of their livings to make room for members +of the regular monkish orders. Even with these harsh measures and the +employment of miracles the archbishop does not seem to have succeeded in +enforcing celibacy among the clergy. Dunstan was born in Somersetshire of +noble parents, and educated at the Abbey of Glastonbury. He became abbot +of that place, and Bishop of Worcester and London. At the coronation of +Edwy he intruded himself into the king's presence, and was afterwards +obliged to retire to Ghent. He held the See of Canterbury for twenty-seven +years, and on his death was buried in the cathedral, where countless +miracles are said to have been worked at his tomb. + +#Ethelgar# (988-989). + +#Siricius# (990-994). + +#Ælfric# (995-1005). + +#Alphege# (1005-1012), Prior of Glastonbury, migrated thence to Bath, where +he founded the great abbey, afterwards united to the See of Wells. After +holding the See of Winchester for twenty-two years, he was translated to +Canterbury. When in 1011 Canterbury was sacked by the Danes, he was +carried off a prisoner, and on his refusal to ransom himself, was +barbarously murdered by his captors. His body was ransomed by the people +of London and buried at St. Paul's Cathedral, whence it was removed to +Canterbury by Canute. Subsequently, in the time of Lanfranc, he was +canonized. + +#Living# (1013-1020) also suffered much from the Danes, who from this time +continued their incursions until the reign of Canute. + +#Egelnoth# (1020-1038) is described as the first dean of the Canterbury +canons who seem to have acquired an ascendancy over the monks ever since +the massacre of the latter by the Danes in 1011. He restored the cathedral +after the damages inflicted by the invaders. + +#Eadsi# (1038-1050). + +#Robert of Jumièges# (1051-1052) was one of the many Normans who were +brought over into England by King Edward the Confessor; he took an active +part in the king's quarrel with the great Earl Godwin, and in the reaction +which followed against the Normans retired to Jumièges, where he remained +till his death. + +#Stigand# (1052-1070), Bishop of Winchester, held this see conjointly with +that of Canterbury. He was remarkable for his avarice. His espousal of the +cause of Edgar the Atheling led the Conqueror to regard him with +suspicion. William took the archbishop with him when he returned into +Normandy, and eventually dispossessed him, along with some other bishops +and abbots, at a synod held at Winchester in the year 1070. Stigand was +imprisoned at Winchester, where he eventually died, resisting to the last +the attempts made by the king to elicit information as to the whereabouts +of the vast treasures which he had accumulated and hidden. + +#Lanfranc# (1070-1089) was the first Norman Archbishop of Canterbury. He +was born at Pavia, and educated at the monastery of Bec, in Normandy, then +the most remarkable seat of learning existing in Europe. His conspicuous +abilities raised him to the position of prior of the monastery. He was +subsequently abbot of the new monastery which William of Normandy founded +at Caen, and on the deposition of Stigand was called over by that king to +complete the subjection and reform of the Anglo-Saxon Church, which task +he undertook with much zeal and not a little high-handed procedure. He +assisted the king in the removal of the Saxon bishops and the substitution +of Normans in their places, as also in the reformation of the great +English monasteries which appear to have fallen into considerable +disorder. Lanfranc's character was remarkable for its firmness, and +brought him into frequent collision with the imperious temper of his +royal master. On one occasion Lanfranc insisted on the restoration of +twenty-five manors which belonged to the archiepiscopal see, and which +had been appropriated by Odo, Bishop of Bayeux, William's half-brother. +William, however, continued to honour his able servant, and during the +king's absence in Normandy, Lanfranc held the office of chief justiciary +and vice-regent within the realm, and maintained his independent attitude +against all the world, refusing to go to Rome at the summons of the pope. +Lanfranc crowned William II., and as long as he lived did much to moderate +that monarch's rapacious attacks on the wealth of the Church. He rebuilt +the cathedral which had fallen into ruin, and founded the great monastery +of Christ Church. He was the author of a celebrated treatise in refutation +of the doctrine of Berengarius of Tours, on the subject of the Real +Presence, and was present at the council held in Rome by Leo IX., in which +Berengarius was condemned. He lies buried in the nave of his cathedral, +but the exact spot is not known. + +#Anselm# (1093-1109) was born at Aosta, and studied under Lanfranc at Bec, +when he succeeded him as Prior of the Convent, and subsequently became +abbot. He visited England on the invitation of Hugh the Fat, Earl of +Chester, and while there was called in by the king and made Archbishop of +Canterbury. Rufus had kept the see vacant, and appropriated the revenues +of this and many other Church properties, and was only induced by the fear +of impending death to appoint Anselm to the see. Anselm was with +difficulty persuaded to accept the post, but from that hour posed as the +firm champion of the rights of the Church, and the opponent and denouncer +of the king's exactions and the general immorality of the times. He +refused to receive his pall at the hands of the king, but eventually +agreed to take it himself from the high altar of the cathedral at +Canterbury. Though deserted by his bishops he held his own against the +king until an accusation of failing in his duty to supply troops for the +king's Welsh expedition drove him into exile and he made his way to Rome, +when his learning created much sensation and was enlisted against the +errors of the Greek Church on the subject of the procession of the Holy +Ghost. On his accession to the throne, Henry I., as part of his reversal +of his brother's ecclesiastical policy recalled Anselm from banishment and +filled up the vacant see. But Anselm remained firm on the subject of the +rights of the church in the matter of the investiture of the clergy, and +refused to consecrate the bishops who had received their investiture from +the king, or to do homage or swear fealty to Henry. The king, on his side, +was determined to uphold the rights of the crown and the matter was +referred to the pope. Anselm had to visit Rome in person, and meeting with +but lukewarm support from the pope agreed at last to a compromise, at Bec, +in 1106, by which the king surrendered the symbols of the ring and +crozier, while retaining his right to the oaths of fealty and homage. +Anselm returned to England and spent the last two years of his life in +comparative repose: he died at Canterbury, and was buried near Lanfranc, +but his remains were afterwards removed to the tower that bears his name. +After his death the see was again vacant for five years, and was managed +by Ralf, Bishop of Rochester, who was however made archbishop later; he +was a disciple of Lanfranc, but as an archbishop was unimportant. + +#William de Corbeuil# (1123-1136) was the first archbishop who received the +title of Papal Legate. He crowned King Stephen after solemnly swearing to +support the cause of Matilda, and is said to have died of remorse for his +conduct in the matter. He completed the restoration of the cathedral and +dedicated it with much pomp and display. + +#Theobald# (1139-1161), the next archbishop, had been Abbot of Bec, and was +a Benedictine. His importance as archbishop was much overshadowed by Henry +of Blois, Bishop of Winchester, and brother of King Stephen. The pope +granted him the title of "Legatus natus," which was retained by his +successors until the Reformation. The life of this prelate was one of +varying fortunes, and he was twice in exile. He eventually, along with +Henry of Blois, took an important part in the final compromise which was +effected between the factions of Stephen and Matilda. On his death the +see remained vacant for more than a year. + +#Thomas Becket# (1162-1170) was the son of a London merchant, and was +educated among the Augustinian canons of Merton, in Surrey. He came +under the patronage of Archbishop Theobald whom he accompanied when the +latter visited Rome. While still only a deacon Becket received many +ecclesiastical benefices, including the Archdeaconry of Canterbury. About +1155 he was appointed Chancellor, through the influence of Theobald, and +thenceforward, until he became archbishop enjoyed the most intimate +friendship and confidence of King Henry II. His magnificence and authority +during this period of his career exceeded that of the most powerful +nobles, and created much sensation in France whither he was dispatched to +demand the hand of the Princess Margaret for the king's infant son. When +offered the Archbishopric of Canterbury he is said to have warned the king +that his acceptance of the office would entail his devotion to God and his +order in preference to the interests of the king. He was however persuaded +to accept the primacy, and after being duly ordained priest was +consecrated archbishop by Henry of Blois, the Bishop of Winchester. + +From this moment onwards the entire character and attitude of Becket was +changed. He gave up his old pomp and magnificence and devoted himself to +monastic severity and works of charity: he furthermore insisted on +resigning his temporal offices, including that of chancellor, and engaged +on his lifelong struggle with the king on the subject of the privileges of +the clergy. + +Since the separation of the bishops from the secular courts by the +Conqueror, a gross system of abuse had arisen under which all persons who +could read and write could claim exemption from the jurisdiction of the +ordinary secular courts, and insist on being tried only before their own +ecclesiastical tribunal. The spiritual courts could inflict no corporal +punishment, and the result was that many guilty persons escaped punishment +at their hands, and the benefit of clergy came to mean a practical licence +to commit crimes. This was naturally in radical opposition to the judicial +policy of Henry II., and matters were brought to a climax by the +scandalous case of Philip Brois, a murderer, whom Becket rescued from the +king's justice and condemned to a totally inadequate sentence. The king +determined to clear the question of all doubt, and to this end drew up +the famous constitutions of Clarendon in which the clergy was subjected +equally with the laity to the common laws of the land. The archbishop took +the oath, but refused to sign the constitution, as he insisted on the +immunity of the clergy from all secular jurisdiction. On retiring from the +council he sought and obtained absolution from his oath at the hands of +the pope--Alexander III.--who, insecure in his own position, and unable +to dispense with the friendship of the King of England, maintained a +vacillating attitude in the quarrel between Becket and Henry. The king +now began a systematic persecution of the archbishop. He was pressed with +various charges, and finally was ordered to account for the moneys which +he had received from the vacant See of Canterbury and other ecclesiastical +properties in his capacity as Chancellor. There seems small reason to +doubt that the charge was an unjust one, and was merely employed by the +king as an instrument of offence against his political adversary. The +archbishop came before the council in all the pomp and panoply of his +office, and bearing his own cross, as he had been deserted by most of his +bishops. After an exciting scene he escaped before any definite judgment +was pronounced, and took refuge in France, where he was hospitably and +honourably received by King Louis VII. Here he continued his struggle +with the King of England. Henry seized upon the revenues of the See of +Canterbury, and banished all Becket's kinsmen, dependants, and friends. +Becket replied by solemnly denouncing the constitution of Clarendon, and +excommunicating all who should enforce them. After further contentions +and fruitless negotiations Henry issued a proclamation withdrawing his +subjects' obedience to the archbishop, enforced by an oath from all +freemen. This oath many of the bishops refused to take. The pope, under +temporary pressure from Becket's enemies, authorized the Archbishop of +York to crown the young prince Henry: and the supremacy of the See of +Canterbury over all England, being thus called in question, became +thenceforward one of the principal subjects of dispute between Becket and +the king. The action of the king was unpopular, and Henry, seeing that he +had gone too far, consented to enter on some sort of reconciliation with +Becket, who ventured to return to England. In spite of the manifest +danger in which he found himself, Becket, on his return to England, +continued his high-handed policy, excommunicating the Archbishop of York +and others of his enemies. On hearing of this conduct Henry's fury got the +better of him, and his famous exclamation led to the departure of the four +knights to Canterbury. They demanded the immediate removal of the +excommunication. Becket was hurried into the cathedral by the monks and +murdered at the altar. + +On his death he was immediately canonized, and many miracles occurred at +his tomb. Henry himself was ordered to do penance for his death. The fame +of his shrine brought countless pilgrims to Canterbury, which was thus for +the first time raised to a position of importance throughout the whole of +Europe. + +#Richard# (1174-1184), Prior of Dover, was the next archbishop: he had been +present at Becket's murder and helped to convey his body to the crypt. He +was somewhat indifferent to spiritual matters, and was chiefly occupied in +supporting the supremacy of the See of Canterbury over that of York, a +question which led to at least one scene of unseemly disturbance in which +the Archbishop of York nearly lost his life. One result of the quarrel was +the conferring of the title of "Primate of England," and "Primate of all +England," on the Archbishops of York and Canterbury respectively, by the +pope. + +#Baldwin# (1185-1190) was the first monk of the Cistercian order who held +the See of Canterbury. He came into collision with the Benedictine monks +with whom the election to the primacy had always rested, and whom he +attempted in vain to deprive of that privilege in favour of a body of +canons at Lambeth, which he purchased for the see. He accompanied Richard +Coeur de Lion to the Holy Land, and died in camp before Acre. + +#Reginald Fitz Jocelyn#, Bishop of Bath and Wells, was next elected, but +died before receiving the pall. + +#Hubert Walter# (1193-1205) was born at West Derham, in Norfolk, and +educated by Ranulph de Glanville: he was made Bishop of Salisbury, and +accompanied Richard I. to the Holy Land. When archbishop he held the +office of Justiciary, but was removed from the latter by a Papal Bull +since it compelled him to judge "causes of blood." He became chancellor, +and conducted the duties of his high offices in an admirable manner. The +laws enacted under Richard I. are said to have been drawn up by him, and +he completed the house of regular canons at Lambeth. He was buried in his +own cathedral where his effigy still remains. + +After some disputes on the subject of election, the Pope, Innocent III., +was appealed to and decided in favour of + +#Stephen Langton# (1207-1228) who was an Englishman of spotless character +and profound theological learning: he was consecrated at Peterborough by +Innocent III. The "fury of King John knew no bounds," he drove the monks +of Canterbury to Flanders, and refused to allow Langton to set foot in +England. The result of this conduct was the publication of the celebrated +Interdict, followed soon after by the personal excommunication of the king +and the absolution of his subjects from their oath of allegiance by the +pope. Philip of France was ordered to depose the English king, whose crown +was declared forfeited. Hard pressed by his enemies, and having alienated +his people from his cause, King John was driven to humiliating submission: +he promised to receive Langton and to restore the Church property, and +finally, formally resigned his crown into the hands of Pandulph, the Papal +Legate. Archbishop Langton was received with honour, and King John threw +himself at his feet and reconciled himself with the Church. He also +ordered a great council to meet at St. Alban's to settle finally the +restitution of the church property. Here, however, he was met by an open +declaration of the complaints of all classes. Langton, though elevated to +the primacy, entirely through the influence of the pope, proved himself a +staunch Englishman, and posed as the champion of national liberty against +the claims of both pope and king. It was he who produced to the +malcontents the Coronation Charter of Henry I., which the barons accepted +as a declaration of the views and demands of their party. He was at the +head of the barons in their struggle with the king, and his name appears +as that of the first witness to the famous Magna Charta. John at once +applied to the pope, and obtained from him the abrogation of the charter +and a papal order to Langton to excommunicate the king's enemies. This he +refused to do. John overran the country with foreign mercenaries, and his +cruelties eventually resulted in the barons summoning Louis of France to +their assistance. Langton was summoned to Rome to attend the Lateran +Council, and was detained there until the deaths of Innocent III. and King +John, after which he was permitted to return to his see and passed the +remainder of his life in comparative tranquillity, siding strongly with +the national party under Hubert de Burgh. He presided at the translation +of Becket's remains from the crypt to Trinity Chapel; he rebuilt much of +the archiepiscopal palace at Canterbury and he lies buried in his own +cathedral. He was the first who divided the Bible into chapters. + +#Richard de Wethershed# (1229-1231), Chancellor of Lincoln, was next +appointed, but died on his way back from Italy. After three more elections +by the monks which were all set aside by the pope, Honorius III., the +monks consented to accept + +#Edmund Rich# (1234-1240), treasurer of Salisbury: he was the son of a +merchant of Abingdon, and was educated at Oxford University. He had a +great reputation for learning and piety. He came into disfavour with the +king by his opposition to the marriage of his sister Eleanor to Simon de +Montfort. His sympathies were all on the side of the national party: he +procured the downfall of Des Roches and maintained the struggle against +the foreign favourites and papal exactions for which the reign of Henry +III. is notorious. At length he retired to the Cistercian Abbey at +Pontigny, which had formerly sheltered Becket and Langton, in despair at +the condition of England and of her Church. It was during his time that +the great movements of the Dominican and Franciscan friars reached England +and though the archbishop never actually joined their ranks, he was +doubtless much influenced by their teaching and example, and was himself +an itinerant preacher after leaving Oxford. He was canonized six years +after his death. He was succeeded by + +#Boniface of Savoy# (1241-1270), one of the king's uncles, whose violence +and warlike bearing made him a strange contrast to his predecessor. His +term of office was one long history of papal exactions from the English +clergy, and of the tyranny of foreigners, creatures of Henry III., over +the rights of the nation. The revenues of the See of Canterbury and the +enormous sums wrung from the clergy were squandered on foreign wars, and +the archbishop himself resided abroad. Boniface took a leading part in the +spoliation of the English Church: he was one of the king's council at the +so-called "Mad Parliament." + +#Robert Kilwardby# (1273-1278) was nominated by the pope, after a fruitless +election of their subprior by the monks. He was a very learned Dominican, +educated at Oxford and Paris. + +#John Peckam# (1279-1292) was, like his predecessor, nominated by the pope +after an education at Oxford and Paris; he also was a Franciscan. He was +at first a staunch supporter of King Edward I., whom he accompanied to +Wales. It is to be regretted that he supported the king in his cruelties +to the conquered Welsh and in the expulsion of the Jews. He firmly +defended the privileges of his see against first, the Archbishop of York, +and secondly, the king. It was in his time (1279) that the famous Statute +of Mortmain was passed. The exactions of the papacy had been considerably +lessened, and the Church was beginning to recover its wealth and national +character. Peckam died at Mortlake, and was buried in the transept of the +martyrdom at Canterbury, where his tomb and effigy still remain. + +#Robert Winchelsea# (1292-1313) was next nominated, king and clergy being +unanimous on this occasion, and at once proceeded to Rome, where he +remained some time before returning to England. Meanwhile, Edward I. had +demanded the enormous subsidy of one half their annual revenue from the +clergy. Winchelsea is said to have been responsible for the celebrated +Bull _Clericis laicis_ issued by Boniface VIII. in defence of the property +of the Church. On his return home the archbishop continued to lead the +clergy in their opposition to the king's demands, and paid the penalty in +the seizure of his whole estate for the king's use. He retired with a +single chaplain to a country parsonage, discharged the humble duties of a +priest, and lived on the alms of his flocks. When the war broke out Edward +sought to propitiate the clergy by restoring the archbishop to his barony, +and summoning him to a parliament at Westminster, where the clergy +abandoned their own ground of ecclesiastical immunity from taxation and +took shelter under the liberties of the realm, thus identifying themselves +with the popular cause in their opposition to the exactions of the king. +On his return from Flanders Edward accused Winchelsea of conspiring +against him in his absence, and the archbishop was again deprived of all +his possessions, and, after many privations, escaped to France. + +On the accession of Edward II. he was recalled and restored to his honour, +but subsequently became again the centre of revolution, and himself +excommunicated the king's favourite, Gaveston. He nevertheless continued +undisturbed in the discharge of his office until his death. During his +prosperous years Winchelsea was famous for his charities and liberality. +After his death he was regarded as a saint, and his shrine in the +south-east transept was removed by the commissioners of Henry VIII. at +the same time as that of Saint Thomas à Becket. + +#Walter Reynolds# (1313-1327) was appointed by the pope at the request +of the king, who had set aside an election of the monks. He was tutor and +subsequently Chancellor to Edward II. After Gaveston's death he became +Keeper of the Great Seal. He obtained many bulls of privilege from Rome. +In spite of the favour he had received from Edward II. he deserted him in +his troubles. His tomb remains in the south aisle of the choir. + +#Simon Mepeham# (1328-1333) was elected by the monks and consecrated at +Avignon. He was opposed in his visitation by Grandisson, the powerful +Bishop of Exeter, who refused him admission to his cathedral by force. He +was unsupported by the pope, and is said to have died of a broken heart in +consequence. His tomb forms the screen of St. Anselm's Chapel. + +#John Stratford# (1333-1348) was appointed by the pope at the request +of Edward III. He was educated at Merton College, Oxford, and became +Archdeacon of Lincoln and Bishop of Winchester. He was made Lord Treasurer +by Edward II., to whose cause he remained faithful during the short-lived +triumph of Isabella and the desertion of the archbishop. Edward III. made +him Lord Chancellor, in which office he was succeeded by his own brother, +Robert. Stratford had endeavoured to dissuade the king from entering on +the French war, and the king, hard pressed for money, had the archbishop +arraigned for high treason. Stratford fled from Lambeth to Canterbury, +where he excommunicated his accusers. He subsequently returned to London +and sheltered himself, not under his ecclesiastical immunity, but under +his privileges of parliament as a member of the House of Peers, a +significant landmark in the history of the English Church. The quarrel +between the king and the archbishop was amicably settled. + +Stratford held exalted opinions on the subject of clerical superiority, +and his arraignment, without the support of the pope, was a decisive blow +against the power of the Church. In his time, also, a layman was for the +first time appointed to the office of Chancellor, and Edward III. wrote a +letter to the pope protesting against the frequent papal nominations to +vacant English sees, which was followed up by the Statute of Provisors in +1350. Stratford died at Mayfield in Sussex, and was buried in his own +cathedral, where his monument still remains. + +#Thomas Bradwardine# (1349) was consecrated after election by the monks of +Christ Church after the death of John Ufford, the king's nominee, who died +of the Black Death before consecration. Bradwardine had been the king's +confessor. He was educated at Merton College, and was one of the best +geometers of his time, besides being the author of an important tract +against Pelagianism. + +#Simon Islip# (1349-1366), the king's secretary, built most of the palace +at Mayfield, and completed that at Maidstone. He founded and endowed +Canterbury Hall, now forming one of the quadrangles of Christ Church, +Oxford, in which he endeavoured to bring together the monastic and secular +priests. + +#Simon Langham# (1366-1368) had been Bishop of Ely, Treasurer of England, +and Lord Chancellor, and also Prior and Abbot of Westminster. On being +appointed a cardinal by the Pope Urban V., he resigned his archbishopric, +the temporal powers and revenues of which had been seized by the king, and +died at Avignon. + +#William Whittlesea# (1368-1374), a nephew of Islip, was translated from +Worcester. + +#Simon of Sudbury# (1375-1381) was Chancellor of Salisbury and Bishop of +London, whence he was transferred to Canterbury. As chancellor he proposed +the famous poll tax, which supplied the motive for Wat Tyler's rebellion, +and, as archbishop, caused to be imprisoned the priest, John Ball. He was +captured in the tower, and beheaded during Wat Tyler's rebellion; his body +was eventually removed to Canterbury, and buried in the south aisle of +the choir. He built the west gate at Canterbury, and a great part of the +city walls. + +#William Courtenay# (1381-1396) was, like his predecessor, translated from +the See of London. In a synod he condemned twenty-four articles in the +writing of Wycliffe, who was unjustly held responsible for the recent +rebellion. Much persecution of Wycliffe's followers ensued. Courtenay +succeeded in establishing his right to visit his province, although +opposed by the Bishops of Exeter and Salisbury. His monument adjoins that +of the Black Prince. + +#Thomas Arundel# (1396-1414) was translated from the See of York. He was +involved in the conspiracy for which his brother, the Earl of Arundel, was +executed, and was himself exiled. He was restored after Bolingbroke's +success, and received the abdication of Richard II. In 1400 the statute +_De haeretico comburendo_ was enacted, and Arundel began to put it in +force against the Lollards. He condemned Sawtree, the first English +Protestant martyr, to be burnt, and took a prominent part in the attack +upon Sir John Oldcastle. In the parliament of 1407 he defended the clergy +against the attempts of the Commons to shift the burden of taxation upon +the wealth of the Church. + +#Henry Chichele# (1414-1443) was educated at New College, Oxford. He became +successively Archdeacon of Dorset and of Salisbury, and Bishop of St. +David's. He supported Henry V. in his unjust claim to the crown of France, +and promised large subsidies from the Church for its support. There is no +doubt that this was a successful attempt at diverting the popular +attention from threatened attempts on the wealth of the Church. He was +reproached by the Pope Martin V. with lack of zeal in the interests of the +papacy in not procuring the reversal of the statutes of provisors and of +præmunire by which, amongst others, the papal power was held in check in +England. Among his foundations are the colleges of St. Bernard (afterwards +St. John's), and All Souls, at Oxford, and a library at Canterbury for the +monks of Christ Church. In his old age he was stricken with remorse for +his sin in instigating the French war, and applied to the pope for +permission to resign his see. Before a reply was received the archbishop +died, after holding the see for nearly thirty years, a longer time than +any of his predecessors. His tomb, constructed by himself during his +lifetime, is in the north aisle of the choir, and is kept in repair by +the Fellows of All Souls. + +#John Stafford# (1443-1452), Bishop of Bath and Wells, was nominated by +the pope with the king's consent on the recommendation of Chichele. He also +held the office of chancellor for ten years, but was undistinguished in +either office. He lies in the south aisle of the choir. + +#John Kemp# (1452-1454), Archbishop of York, succeeded. He was educated +at Merton College, and was Archdeacon of Durham and Bishop of Rochester, +Chichester, and London. He died at an advanced age, after a very brief +primacy, and was buried in the north choir aisle. + +#Thomas Bourchier# (1454-1486), Bishop of Ely, was next elected by the +monks. He was a great-grandson of Edward III. He was educated at Oxford, +of which university he became chancellor; he subsequently held the sees of +Worcester and Ely. His lot fell upon difficult times, and he endeavoured +to maintain a position of neutrality in the struggle between the two +Roses, and at last effected their union by performing the marriage of +Henry VII. with Elizabeth of York. He died soon after, and his tomb +remains at Canterbury. He was bishop for fifty-one years, out of which he +held the primacy for thirty-two years. He actively encouraged education, +and helped to introduce printing into this country. + +#John Morton# (1486-1500) was, like his predecessor, translated from Ely. +He was educated at Balliol College. Richard of Gloucester, after making +vain overtures to him, removed him from his office and committed him to the +Tower, and afterwards to Brecknock Castle, whence he escaped and joined +the Earl of Richmond on the Continent. After Bosworth he was recalled, and +on Bourchier's death was made archbishop. In 1493 he obtained a cardinal's +hat. In 1487 he was made Lord Chancellor, and continued for thirteen +years, until his death, in this office and in the confidence of the king, +whom he assisted in his system for controlling the great feudal barons and +in the exaction of "benevolence." His famous dilemma propounded to the +merchants was known as "Morton's fork." It was he who prevailed upon the +Pope to canonize Archbishop Anselm. His tomb, constructed during his +lifetime, may be seen in the crypt of his cathedral. + +#Henry Dean# (1501-1503) was translated from Salisbury; he held the Great +Seal, with the title of Lord Keeper, after the death of Morton. + +#William Warham# (1503-1532) was born of a good Hampshire family, and +educated at Winchester and New College. He was sent to Burgundy on a +mission to protest against the support of Perkin Warbeck by the Duchess +Margaret. He held the offices of Lord Keeper, Lord Chancellor, Master of +the Rolls, and Bishop of London. He crowned King Henry VIII., and +protested from the first against his marriage with Catherine. He was a +great rival of Wolsey, and retired from the court until the fall of the +cardinal. In the disputes of the time he embraced the side of the old +religion, and gave some countenance to Elizabeth Barton, the Nun of Kent. +The last part of his life was devoted to the cares of his diocese and to +letters, which he cultivated diligently. He was a personal friend of +Erasmus, whom he induced to visit England. His tomb remains in the +Transept of the Martyrdom. + +#Thomas Cranmer# (1533-1556) may be considered the first Protestant +archbishop. From the first he would only accept the archbishopric as +coming from the king without intervention of the pope. He was born of a +good family in Nottinghamshire, and was educated at Cambridge, where he +became fellow of Jesus. He was first brought to the king's notice by his +suggestion that the question of Catherine's divorce might be settled +without reference to the pope. The king set him to write on the subject, +and he was rewarded with the Archdeaconry of Taunton. In 1530 he +accompanied the Earl of Wiltshire to the papal court, and was there +offered preferment by the pope. He married the niece of Osiander, who had +himself written on the subject of the divorce. On Warham's death he +succeeded him in the primacy, and returned to England. As archbishop, +Cranmer pronounced the divorce against Catherine and crowned Anne Boleyn, +and was sponsor to the Princess Elizabeth, whom he baptized. After Anne +Boleyn's trial he pronounced her marriage void, and acted as her confessor +in the Tower. Throughout his primacy Cranmer actively supported the +reforming party. In 1539 he was one of the commissioners for inspecting +into the matter of religion. In 1545 he was accused of heresy by the +opposite party led by Gardiner, and would have fallen but for the support +of the king, who befriended Cranmer throughout his life, and sent for him +to attend his death-bed. Great changes had occurred at Canterbury. +Becket's shrine had been destroyed, and a dean and twelve canons were +established in place of the old monastery of Christ Church, which was +dissolved. Under Henry's will Cranmer was appointed one of the Regents of +the Kingdom and Executors of the Will, and it was he who crowned Edward +VI. who, like Elizabeth, was his godchild. Throughout the reign of Edward, +Cranmer earnestly supported the cause of the Reformation. The Six Articles +were repealed and the first Book of Common Prayer was issued. On the +death-bed of Edward, Cranmer signed the king's will, in which he appointed +Lady Jane Grey his successor. On the accession of Queen Mary he was at +once ordered to appear before the council and within a month was committed +to the Tower. In November, 1553, he was pronounced guilty of high treason, +but was pardoned on this count, and it was decided to proceed against him +as a heretic. In 1554 he was sent to Oxford, with Latimer and Ridley, +where he remained two years in prison and was condemned as a heretic by +two successive commissions. After the death of Latimer and Ridley, Cranmer +was degraded and deprived. It was after this that, in the hopes of saving +his life, he made his famous recantation. He was brought into St. Mary's, +and in his address to the people withdrew his recantation and declared +that his right hand which had signed it should be the first to burn. He +was hurried to the place of execution opposite Balliol College, and, when +the pyre was lighted, held his right hand in the flames till it was +consumed, and died, calling on the Lord Jesus to receive his spirit. + +#Reginald Pole# (1556-1558) a near connection of Henry VIII. then +succeeded. He was born in Worcestershire and was educated by the +Carthusians at Shene and at Magdalen College, Oxford. He was early +advanced to the Deanery of Exeter and other preferments. On leaving Oxford +he visited the universities of France and Italy and returned to England in +1525. Henry attempted in vain to secure Pole's support on the divorce +question, and on the appearance of his book, "Pro Unitate Ecclesiastica," +he was sent for by the king, and when he refused to come, an act of +attainder was passed against him. In 1537 Pole was induced to accept a +cardinal's hat. It is said that he was most unwilling to do so on the +ground that he contemplated marrying the Princess Mary and seating himself +on the English throne. He took an active part in promoting the Pilgrimage +of Grace and the second rising in 1541. He remained in Italy until the +death of Edward VI. On the accession of Mary he returned to England as +papal legate after the question of his marriage with Mary had been again +discussed and set aside through the influence of the Emperor Charles V. On +Cranmer's execution Pole was consecrated Archbishop of Canterbury. As +legate he absolved the Parliament and made a solemn entry into London. For +the next three years Pole was in sole management of the ecclesiastical +affairs of England, and was consenting to the persecutions which disgraced +the reign of Mary. He was at one time deprived of his legatine authority by +Pope Paul IV. who had wished for the elevation of Gardiner to the primacy. +The archbishop submitted to the pope and was again appointed legate shortly +before his death which occurred about the same time as that of Mary. He +was buried in the corona at Canterbury, where his tomb yet remains. He was +the last Archbishop of Canterbury to be buried in his own cathedral, until +the recent interment of Dr. Benson. + +#Matthew Parker# (1559-1575) was born of an old Norfolk family and educated +at Corpus Christi College, Cambridge. Wolsey invited him to become a +fellow of Christ Church, his new foundation at Oxford, but this he +declined. After various other offices he was appointed to the Deanery of +Lincoln by Edward VI. On the accession of Mary he was deprived of all his +offices as a married priest, and lived privately until the accession of +Elizabeth, who made him archbishop. He was duly elected by the new Chapter +of Canterbury, and held his post during a most difficult time with +marvellous tact and judgment. Religious toleration for its own sake was an +idea yet unknown, but Parker directed that great caution should be +observed in administering the oath of supremacy to those of the clergy who +still favoured the old religion. It is much to his credit that he managed +to preserve such good relations with the queen in face of Elizabeth's +prejudice against the marriage of the clergy. He was an enlightened patron +of learning, and did much to encourage all branches of art. + +#Edmund Grindall# (1576-1583) was born at St. Bees and educated at +Cambridge, where he became Master of Pembroke Hall. He was Chaplain to +Edward VI. During the troubles of Mary's reign he lived in Germany, and on +Elizabeth's accession became the first Protestant Bishop of London. Thence +he was removed to York and in 1575 was appointed as archbishop. He was +inclined to view the Puritans with more leniency than his predecessor and +always refused to forbid the prophesyings, or meetings of the clergy for +discussing the meaning of scripture, which Elizabeth disliked so much, and +was in consequence deprived of his jurisdiction. He went blind before his +death and was buried at Croydon. + +#John Whitgift# (1583-1604) was born at Great Grimsby and educated at +Cambridge, where John Bradford was his tutor: he became one of Elizabeth's +chaplains and Master of Pembroke Hall and of Trinity. He wrote an answer +to Cartwright's "Admonition" and was preferred to the Deanery of Lincoln +and Bishopric of Worcester. After Grindall's death he was translated to +Canterbury. From this date his severity towards the Puritans increased. He +insisted that every minister of the Church should subscribe to three +points: the queen's supremacy, the Common Prayer, and the Thirty-nine +Articles, and enforced his principle with much vigour, contrary to the +advice of the more enlightened Lord Burleigh. The severity of these +measures called into existence the "Martin Marprelate" libels and produced +much dissatisfaction and suffering among the more Puritanical clergy, +which was by no means lessened by the accession of James, who, on his way +to London rejected a petition signed by more than one thousand Puritan +ministers. Whitgift was buried at Croydon where he founded a school and +hospital. + +#Richard Bancroft# (1604-1610) was born near Manchester and educated at +Jesus College, Oxford. He became one of Elizabeth's chaplains, and Bishop +of London, whence he was translated to Canterbury. He was even more severe +than his predecessor against the Puritans, and was a most stern champion +of conformity. He advocated the king's absolute power beyond the law and +attempted to establish episcopacy in Scotland. He died at Lambeth and was +buried in the parish church there. + +#George Abbot# (1610-1633) was born at Guildford and educated at Balliol +College. He assisted in establishing union between the Scotch and English +Churches and was rewarded with the Bishopric of Lichfield and Coventry. +Thence he was translated to London, and on the death of Bancroft was +appointed to the primacy. In contrast to his predecessor he connived at +some irregularities of discipline in the Puritanical clergy. At the same +time he was a zealous Calvinist and hater of popery, and disapproved of +those who preached up the arbitrary power of the king. These latter views +rendered him unpopular with the courtiers and the party of Laud. The +accidental death of a keeper at the hands of the archbishop was utilized +against him by his enemies and he was with difficulty restored to his +archiepiscopal functions. On refusing to licence a sermon by Dr. +Sibthorpe, asserting the king's right to tax his subjects without their +consent, he was obliged to retire to his palace of Ford, near Canterbury. +He assisted at the coronation of Charles I., but never managed to win the +favour of that monarch. He died at Croydon, and was buried at Guildford, +where his tomb and effigy still remain. + +#William Laud# (1633-1645) was born at Reading, and educated at St. John's +College, Oxford. At the university he soon became conspicuous for his +hatred of the Puritans and his devotion to High Church doctrines. He +became President of St. John's in spite of the opposition of Archbishop +Abbot. He became successively one of the royal chaplains, Dean of +Gloucester, Bishop of St. David's, Bath and Wells, and London. He acted as +Dean of Westminster at Charles I.'s coronation. He was made Dean of the +Chapel Royal, Chancellor of Oxford, and a Privy Councillor of Scotland. On +Abbot's death he was elevated to the primacy, and is said to have refused +the offer of a cardinal's hat. As archbishop he was responsible for the +general Church persecution which produced his own unpopularity and +downfall, and was one of the main causes of the Civil War. Prosecutions +for non-conformity were enforced with the utmost severity. The courts of +Star Chamber and High Commission were brought to bear on the Puritans, and +Laud became universally detested. The superiority of the king over the law +was openly preached, and the Irish and Scotch Puritans were alienated by +the severity of the measures taken against them. On the common idea of +popular government, the Puritans were driven into coalition and +identification with the national party, while the king, court, bishops, +and judges represented the High Church movement and the doctrine of the +king's absolute authority. In 1639 the palace at Lambeth was attacked, but +the archbishop was removed to Whitehall and escaped for the time. In 1640, +however, he was impeached for high treason, and confined in the Tower. +Various charges were brought against him and fines inflicted, and his +property was seized and sold or destroyed for the use of the commonwealth. +The charge of high treason could not be legally established, and a bill of +attainder was passed against him in 1645. He was eventually beheaded on +Tower Hill, at the age of seventy-one years; his remains were interred at +Barking, but subsequently removed to the chapel of St. John's College at +Oxford. His conduct has been differently judged by his friends and +enemies. He built the greater part of the inner quadrangle of St. John's, +and presented a large collection of important manuscripts to the +university. In his time the archiepiscopal palace at Canterbury was ruined +by the Puritans, and on the Restoration an Act was passed dispensing the +archbishops from restoring it. From this time they have had no official +residence in Canterbury. + +#William Juxon# (1660-1663) was born at Chichester, and educated, like +his predecessor, at St. John's College, Oxford, where he attracted the +attention of Laud. He became successively President of St. John's, Dean of +Worcester, Bishop of Hereford, and Bishop of London. He also became Lord +Treasurer, a post which had been held by no churchman since the days of +Henry VII., and was the last instance of any of the great offices of State +being filled by an ecclesiastic. He attended Charles I. on the occasion of +his execution. On the Restoration he became Archbishop of Canterbury, and +died three years afterwards. He lies in the chapel of St. John's College. + +#Gilbert Sheldon# (1663-1677) was educated at Oxford, and became Fellow and +Warden of All Souls' College. He was a strong supporter of the king during +the Civil War. He was deprived of his wardenship and imprisoned by the +Parliamentarian commissioners when they visited Oxford. He retired to +Derbyshire until the Restoration, when he was restored to his wardenship; +he was made Dean of the Chapel Royal, and succeeded Juxon in the See of +London. In 1661 he assisted at the discussion of the liturgy between the +Presbyterian and Episcopal divines known as the Savoy Conference. In 1663 +he succeeded Juxon in the primacy, and in 1667 was elected Chancellor of +Oxford. He built the Sheldonian Theatre at Oxford, which building is an +early work of Sir Christopher Wren's. He offended the court party by his +open disapproval of the king's morals, and retired in 1669 to his palace +at Croydon, where he spent most of the remainder of his life. He was +buried at the parish church at Croydon, where his tomb and effigy still +remain. + +#William Sancroft# (1678-1691) was born at Fresingfield, in Suffolk, and +educated at St. Edmundsbury and at Cambridge, where he became Fellow of +Emmanuel College. He was deprived of his fellowship in 1649, and retired +to the Continent, where he remained until the restoration of Charles II. +He then returned to England, and subsequently became Master of Emmanuel +College, and Dean of York, and of St. Paul's, and Archdeacon of +Canterbury, and was raised to the primacy by Charles II., whose death-bed +he attended. In the reign of James he was at the head of the seven bishops +who presented the famous petition against the Declaration of Indulgence, +for which they were committed to the Tower, tried, and acquitted amidst +immense popular excitement. After James's flight, Sancroft acted as the +head of the council of peers who took upon themselves the administration +of the government of the country. His plan was to retain James nominally +on the throne, while placing the reins of government in the hands of a +regent. He refused to take the oath of allegiance to William and Mary, +considering himself bound by his former oath to James II. He was +accordingly suspended and deprived, and when ejected by law from Lambeth +he retired to his small ancestral property at Fresingfield, where he died +and was buried. + +#John Tillotson# (1691-1694) was born of Puritan parents at Sowerby, in +Yorkshire, and was educated at Cambridge. During the Protectorate he had +followed the teachings of the Presbyterians, but on the Restoration he +submitted to the Act of Uniformity. He held among other posts those of +Preacher at Lincoln's Inn and Dean of Canterbury, and enjoyed the intimate +confidence of William and Mary. On the deprivation of Sancroft he was +reluctantly induced to accept the primacy, which he was destined to hold +only for some three years. He died at Lambeth after this short term of +office, and was buried in the Church of St. Lawrence, Jewry. As a +theologian Tillotson was remarkable for his latitudinarianism, and he was +one of the finest preachers who have ever lived. + +#Thomas Tenison# was born at Cottenham, in Cambridgeshire, and educated at +Cambridge. His fame as a preacher procured him the Archdeaconry of London +and the Bishopric of Lincoln, in which diocese he did admirable work. He +died at Lambeth, and lies buried in the parish church there. + +#William Wake# (1716-1737) was educated at Christ Church, Oxford, and +became Dean of Exeter and Bishop of Lincoln. He was gifted with great +learning, and took an active part in the controversy with Atterbury on +the subject of the rights of convocation. + +#John Potter# (1737-1747) was the son of a linendraper at Wakefield, in +Yorkshire, and was educated at University College, Oxford, becoming Fellow +of Lincoln and afterwards Bishop of Oxford. He was a learned divine and +writer. Like his predecessor he was buried in the parish church at +Croydon. + +#Thomas Herring# (1747-1757) and + +#Matthew Hutton# (1757-1758) were both translated to Canterbury from York. + +#Thomas Secker# (1758-1768) was born of dissenting parents near Newark. At +the instance of Butler, afterwards the famous Bishop of Durham, he joined +the Church of England and abandoned the study of medicine, and took holy +orders. He held many posts in succession, including the Bishoprics of +Bristol and Oxford. He died and was buried at Lambeth, where his portrait, +by Sir Joshua Reynolds, still remains. + +#Frederick Cornwallis# (1768-1783) was the seventh son of Charles, 4th Lord +Cornwallis. He was consecrated Bishop of Lichfield and Coventry in 1750, +and in 1766 became Dean of St. Paul's. On October 6th, 1768, he was +enthroned Archbishop of Canterbury. In Hasted's "Kent" we find him +commended highly for having abolished that "disagreeable distinction +of his chaplains dining at a separate table." More renowned for his +affability and courteous behaviour than for learning, he entertained at +times with semi-regal state; but once fell into some disfavour because +"his lady was in the habit of holding _routs_ on Sundays." + +#John Moore# (1783-1805) became Dean of Canterbury in 1771. He was +consecrated Bishop of Bangor in 1775, and thence translated to the +archiepiscopal see in 1783. Although a promoter of Sunday-schools and +foreign missions, he did not escape reproach for paying undue regard to +the interests of his family. It has been well said that during his tenure +of office and that of his immediate successor, the sinecures and +pluralities held by the highest clergy were worthy of the mediæval period. + +#Charles Manners-Sutton# (1805-1828) was grandson of John, 3rd Duke of +Rutland. In 1791 he was made Dean of Peterborough, and Bishop of Norwich +in 1792. In 1794 he was appointed Dean of Windsor, and became Archbishop +of Canterbury in 1805 owing to Court influence, which outweighed the +hostility of Pitt, who wished to appoint his own nominee. As a prelate he +was distinguished for many virtues and qualities befitting his office. He +was president at the foundation of the National Society, and worked +strenuously to advance the cause of education which it represents. While +he held the primacy a fund which had been accumulated from the sale of +Croydon Palace was applied to the purchase of Addington, where he lies +buried. + +#William Howley# (1828-1848) was tutor to the Prince of Orange (afterwards +William II. of Holland) then successively Regius Professor of Divinity of +Oxford, Bishop of London, 1813, and archbishop, 1823. He played a prominent +part in politics and state ceremonials and marked the transition between +the new _régime_, and the old princely days of the archbishoprics. + +#John Bird Sumner# (1848-1862) was brother of Dr. C. Sumner, Bishop of +Winchester. In 1823 he was appointed Bishop of Chester, and in 1848 was +promoted to the See of Canterbury. He published a large number of works, +and by his activity and simplicity of life is "remembered everywhere as +realizing that ideal of the Apostolic ministry which he had traced in his +earliest and most popular work."[3] + + [3] Diocesan Histories: "Canterbury," by R.C. Jenkins, M.A. 1880. + +#Charles Thomas Longley# (1862-1868) was the son of a Recorder of +Rochester. In 1836 he was consecrated the first bishop of the newly founded +See of Ripon, translated to Durham in 1856, became Archbishop of York in +1860, and in 1862 was transferred to Canterbury. Perhaps the most memorable +incidents in a memorable career are the Pan-Anglican Synod held at Lambeth +in 1867, and his establishment of the Diocesan Society for Church +Building. + +#Archibald Campbell Tait# (1868-1882) was son of Craufurd Tait, Esq., a +Scots attorney. He succeeded Arnold as Master of Rugby in 1842, and became +Dean of Carlisle in 1850. He presided over the Pan-Anglican Synod in 1867, +and in 1868 succeeded to the archbishopric. "Memorials of Catherine and +Craufurd Tait" is a book so well known that even the barest sketch of his +career here would be superfluous. + +#Edward White Benson# (1882-1896), son of Edward White Benson, Esq., of +Birmingham Heath, was a master of Rugby. He was Head Master of Wellington +from 1858 to 1872, Prebendary and Chancellor of Lincoln in 1872, was +consecrated the first bishop of the newly created See of Truro in 1877, +and translated to Canterbury in 1883. He was buried in the Cathedral on +October 16th, 1896, in a secluded corner of the north aisle, immediately +under the north-west tower, the first archbishop who was interred in the +cathedral of the metropolitan see since Reginald Pole in 1558. + +#Frederick Temple# (1896- ), the present archbishop, is son +of the late Major Octavius Temple. He was Head Master of Rugby, 1858 to +1869, consecrated the sixty-first Bishop of Exeter in 1869, translated to +London in 1885, and to Canterbury in 1896. His share in the famous "Essays +and Reviews," and the many active works he has instituted, are too well +known to need comment. + + + + +PLANS OF CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL, AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. + + +[Illustration: Fig. 1. Plan of Saxon Cathedral (from Willis).] + +[Illustration: Fig. 2. The Cathedral in 1774. The lighter shading shows +the conjectural termination of Lanfranc's church (from Willis).] + +REFERENCES TO FIG. 2. + + Altars. +E. Holy Cross. +F. St. Mary the Virgin. +H. St. Michael's (below). + All Saints (above). +M. St. Benedict (below). + St. Blaise (above). +X. High Altar. + + +[Illustration: Fig. 3. Plan of Canterbury Cathedral at the present time.] + +REFERENCES TO FIG. 3. + + EXTERIOR. + + A. West Door. + B. South Door. +CC. Nave. + D. South Aisle. + E. North Aisle. + G. Tower, N.W. + H. Tower, S.W. + J. Transept, S.W. + K. Martyrdom, or + Transept, N.W. + L. Central Tower. + M. Choir. + N. South Aisle. + O. North Aisle. + P. Transept, S.E. + Q. Transept, N.E. + R. Presbytery. + S. Altar. + T. Trinity Chapel. + U. Aisle ditto. + W. Corona. + X. Anselm's Tower. + Y. Vestry. + Z. Treasury. + + INTERIOR. + + 1. Doorway to Cloister. + 3. " to Warrior's Chapel. + 4. " to Dean's Chapel. + 5. " to Crypt. + 6. " to Cloister. + 7. Warham's Mt. (Monument [Transcriber's Note]) + 8. Peckham's Mt. + 9. Staircase. +10. Lady Holland's Mt. +11, 12 and 13. Stairs. +15. Walter's Mt. +16. Reynold's Mt. +17. Kemp's Mt. +18. Stratford's Mt. +19. Sudbury's Mt. +20. Mepeham's Mt. +21. Black Prince's Mt. +22. Courtney's Mt. +23. Chatillon's Mt. +24. Theobald's Mt. +25. Pole's Mt. +26. Dean Wotton's Mt. +27. Henry IV.'s Mt. +28. Henry IV.'s Chantry. +29. Bourchier's Mt. +30. Chichele's Mt. +31. Stairs to Crypt. +35. Library. +38. Chapter-House. +39. Cloister Square. + + * * * * * + + +Transcriber's Notes: + +1. Words and phrases which were italicized in the original have been + surrounded by underscores ('_') in this version. Words or phrases + which were bolded have been surrounded by pound signs ('#'). + +2. Obvious printer's errors have been corrected without note. + +3. Inconsistencies in hyphenation or the spelling of proper names, and + dialect or obsolete word spelling, has been maintained as in the + original. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Cathedral Church of Canterbury +[2nd ed.]., by Hartley Withers + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF CANTERBURY *** + +***** This file should be named 22832-8.txt or 22832-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/2/8/3/22832/ + +Produced by Jonathan Ingram, Anne Storer and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Cathedral Church of Canterbury [2nd ed.]. + +Author: Hartley Withers + +Release Date: October 2, 2007 [EBook #22832] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF CANTERBURY *** + + + + +Produced by Jonathan Ingram, Anne Storer and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img01" id="img01"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 615px;"> +<a href="images/img01.jpg"> +<img src="images/img01-th.jpg" width="615" height="400" alt="From the South" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">canterbury cathedral from the south.</span> +</div> + +<hr /> + +<h1>THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF</h1> +<h6>CANTERBURY</h6> + +<h1>A DESCRIPTION OF ITS FABRIC<br /> +AND A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE<br /> +ARCHIEPISCOPAL SEE</h1> + +<h2>BY HARTLEY WITHERS, B.A.</h2> + +<p> </p> + +<p><a name="logo" id="logo"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/logo1.png" width="300" height="285" alt="Logo1" title="" /> +</div> + +<p> </p> + +<h2>LONDON GEORGE BELL & SONS 1897</h2> + + +<hr /> + +<p class="center"> +<em>First Edition December, 1896.<br /> +Second Edition, Revised, with many Additional Illustrations, May, 1897.</em><br /> +</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2>GENERAL PREFACE.</h2> + +<p class="noindent"> +This series of monographs has been planned to supply visitors to the great +English Cathedrals with accurate and well illustrated guide books at a +popular price. The aim of each writer has been to produce a work compiled +with sufficient knowledge and scholarship to be of value to the student of +archæology and history, and yet not too technical in language for the use +of an ordinary visitor or tourist.</p> + +<p>To specify all the authorities which have been made use of in each case +would be difficult and tedious in this place. But amongst the general +sources of information which have been almost invariably found useful +are:—firstly, the great county histories, the value of which, especially +in questions of genealogy and local records, is generally recognized; +secondly, the numerous papers by experts which appear from time to time in +the transactions of the antiquarian and archæological societies; thirdly, +the important documents made accessible in the series issued by the Master +of the Rolls; fourthly, the well-known works of Britton and Willis on the +English Cathedrals; and, lastly, the very excellent series of Handbooks to +the Cathedrals, originated by the late Mr. John Murray, to which the +reader may in most cases be referred for fuller detail, especially in +reference to the histories of the respective sees.</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +<span style="margin-left: 30em;" class="smcap">Gleeson White.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 30em;" class="smcap">E. F. Strange.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 32em;"><em>Editors of the Series.</em></span></p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2>PREFACE.</h2> + + +<p class="noindent"> +Among authorities consulted in the preparation of this volume, the author +desires to name specially Prof. Willis’s “Architectural History of +Canterbury Cathedral” (1845), Dean Stanley’s “Historical Memorials of +Canterbury” (Murray, 1855, and fifth edition, 1868), “Canterbury,” by the +Rev. R.C. Jenkins (1880), and the excellent section devoted to Canterbury +in Murray’s “Handbooks to the English Cathedrals, Southern Division,” +wherein Mr. Richard John King brought together so much valuable matter, to +which reference has been made too often to be acknowledged in each +instance. For permission to use this the publishers have to thank Mr. John +Murray.</p> + +<p>For the reproduction of the drawings of the various parts of the +Cathedral, and the arms on the title page, by Mr. Walter Tallent Owen, the +editors are greatly indebted to the artist, from whose volume, “Bits of +Canterbury Cathedral,” published by W.T. Comstock, New York, 1891, they +have been taken. Others are taken from Charles Wild’s “Specimens of +Mediæval Architecture,” and from Carter’s “Ancient Sculpture and +Paintings.”</p> + +<p>The illustrations from photographs in this volume have been reproduced +from the originals by Messrs. Carl Norman and Co.</p> + +<p class="noindent"><span style="margin-left: 30em;">H. W.</span></p> + + + +<hr /> + +<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2> + +<div class="center"> +<table summary="toc" width="75%"> + +<tr> <td class="tocch"></td> <td class="tocpn"><span class="smcap">PAGE</span></td> </tr> + +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#CHAPTER_I"><span class="smcap">Chapter I.</span>—History of the Building</a></td> <td class="tocpn">3</td> </tr> + +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#CHAPTER_II"><span class="smcap">Chapter II.</span>—Exterior and Precincts:</a></td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#belltower">The Angel or Bell Tower</a></td> <td class="tocpn">24</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#monastery">The Monastery</a></td> <td class="tocpn">32</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#gate">Christchurch Gate</a></td> <td class="tocpn">35</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#ruins">Ruins of the Infirmary</a></td> <td class="tocpn">38</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#treasury">The Treasury</a></td> <td class="tocpn">38</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#lavatory">The Lavatory Tower</a></td> <td class="tocpn">40</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#chapter">The Chapter House</a></td> <td class="tocpn">42</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#library">The Library</a></td> <td class="tocpn">44</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#deanery">The Deanery</a></td> <td class="tocpn">44</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#green">The Green Court</a></td> <td class="tocpn">48</td> </tr> + +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#CHAPTER_III"><span class="smcap">Chapter III.</span>—Interior:</a></td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#nave">The Nave</a></td> <td class="tocpn">52</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#central">The Central Tower</a></td> <td class="tocpn">55</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#screen">The Western Screen</a></td> <td class="tocpn">56</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#choir1">The Choir</a></td> <td class="tocpn">57</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#altar">The Altar</a></td> <td class="tocpn">61</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#choir2">The Choir Screen</a></td> <td class="tocpn">64</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#choir3">The Choir Stalls</a></td> <td class="tocpn">65</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#set">South-East Transept</a></td> <td class="tocpn">67</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#swc">South-West Choir Aisle</a></td> <td class="tocpn">69</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#anselm">St. Anselm’s Tower and Chapel</a></td> <td class="tocpn">69</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#wc">The Watching Chamber</a></td> <td class="tocpn">72</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#trinity1">Trinity Chapel</a></td> <td class="tocpn">72</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#tomb">Tomb of the Black Prince</a></td> <td class="tocpn">75</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#crown">Becket’s Crown</a></td> <td class="tocpn">88</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#andrew">St. Andrew’s Tower</a></td> <td class="tocpn">88</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#net">North-East Transept</a></td> <td class="tocpn">90</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#nwt">Chapel of the Martyrdom</a></td> <td class="tocpn">92</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#dean">The Dean’s Chapel</a></td> <td class="tocpn">94</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#swt">South-West Transept</a></td> <td class="tocpn">95</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#michael">St. Michael’s Chapel</a></td> <td class="tocpn">95</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#crypt">The Main Crypt</a></td> <td class="tocpn">96</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#ecrypt">The Eastern Crypt</a></td> <td class="tocpn">101</td> </tr> + +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV"><span class="smcap">Chapter IV.</span>—The History of the See</a></td> <td class="tocpn">103</td> </tr> + +</table> +</div> + +<hr /> + +<h2>ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> + +<div class="center"> +<table summary="toc" width="75%"> + +<tr> <td class="tocch"></td> <td class="tocpn"><span class="smcap">PAGE</span></td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img01">The Cathedral from the South</a></td> <td class="tocpn"><em>Frontispiece</em></td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img03">The Cathedral from the North</a></td> <td class="tocpn">1</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img04">Plan of Canterbury Cathedral (<em>Circa 1165</em>)</a></td> <td class="tocpn">4</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#logo">Arms of Canterbury</a></td> <td class="tocpn"><em>Title</em></td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img05">The Cloisters</a></td> <td class="tocpn">19</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img06">View on the Stour</a></td> <td class="tocpn">22</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img07">The Central Tower, “Bell Harry”</a></td> <td class="tocpn">25</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img08">Detail of St. Anselm’s Tower</a></td> <td class="tocpn">32</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img09">The Christchurch Gate</a></td> <td class="tocpn">33</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img10">The South-West Porch of the Cathedral</a></td> <td class="tocpn">36</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img11">Cloisters of the Monks’ Infirmary</a></td> <td class="tocpn">37</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img12">Ruins of the Monks’ Infirmary</a></td> <td class="tocpn">38</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img13">The Baptistery Tower</a></td> <td class="tocpn">39</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img14">Turret of South-West Transept</a></td> <td class="tocpn">41</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img15">The Cloisters</a></td> <td class="tocpn">43</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img16">Norman Staircase in the Close</a></td> <td class="tocpn">45</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img17">Details of the Norman Staircase in the Close</a></td> <td class="tocpn">46</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img18">Details of Ornament</a></td> <td class="tocpn">47</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img19">Old Painting, “The Murder of St. Thomas à Becket”</a></td> <td class="tocpn">51</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img20">The Shrine of St. Thomas à Becket (from the Cottonian MS.)</a></td> <td class="tocpn">52</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img21">Capitals of Columns in the Eastern Apse</a></td> <td class="tocpn">54</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img22">The Choir—looking East</a></td> <td class="tocpn">59</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#img23">Do. before Restoration</a></td> <td class="tocpn">62</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img24">A Miserere in the Choir</a></td> <td class="tocpn">65</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img25">Some Mosaics from the Floor of Trinity Chapel</a></td> <td class="tocpn">73</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img26">The Black Prince’s Tomb</a></td> <td class="tocpn">77</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img27">Shield, Coat, etc., of the Black Prince</a></td> <td class="tocpn">80</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img28">West Gate</a></td> <td class="tocpn">81</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img29">Trinity Chapel, looking into Corona, “Becket’s Crown”</a></td> <td class="tocpn">88</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img30">Chair of St. Augustine</a></td> <td class="tocpn">89</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img31">Transept of “The Martyrdom”</a></td> <td class="tocpn">92</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img32">Part of South-Western Transept</a></td> <td class="tocpn">94</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#img33">The Crypt</a></td> <td class="tocpn">97</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#img34">Do. St. Gabriel’s Chapel</a></td> <td class="tocpn">100</td> </tr> + <tr> <td class="tocsb"><a href="#img35">Do. Cardinal Morton’s Monument</a></td> <td class="tocpn">101</td> </tr> +<tr> <td class="tocch"><a href="#PLANS">Plans of Cathedral at three periods</a></td> <td class="tocpn">130</td> </tr> + +</table> +</div> + +<hr /> +<p><a name="img03" id="img03"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 606px;"> +<a href="images/img03.jpg"> +<img src="images/img03-th.jpg" width="606" height="400" alt="From the North" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">the cathedral from the north (from a photograph by carl +norman and co.).</span> +</div> + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'>[Pg 1]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL.</h2> + + +<h2>CHAPTER I.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a href="#CONTENTS">Table of<br />Contents</a></span></p> +<p class="center"><strong>THE HISTORY OF THE BUILDING.</strong></p> + + +<p class="noindent"> +More than four hundred years passed by between the beginning of the +building of this cathedral by Archbishop Lanfranc (1070-1089) and its +completion, by the addition of the great central tower, at the end of the +fifteenth century. But before tracing the history of the construction of +the present well-known fabric, a few words will not be out of place +concerning the church which preceded it on the same site. A British or +Roman church, said to have been built by a certain mythical King Lucius, +was given to St. Augustine by Ethelbert in <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 597. It was designed, +broadly speaking, on the plan of the old Basilica of St. Peter at Rome, +but as to the latest date of any alterations, which may or may not have +been made by Augustine and his immediate successors, we have no accurate +information. It is, however, definitely stated that Archbishop Odo, who +held the see from <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 942-959, raised the walls and rebuilt the roof. In +the course of these alterations the church was roofless for three years, +and we are told that no rain fell within the precincts during this time. +In <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1011 Canterbury was pillaged by the Danes, who carried off +Archbishop Alphege to Greenwich, butchered the monks, and did much damage +to the church. The building was, however, restored by Canute, who made +further atonement by hanging up his crown within its walls, and bringing +back the body of Alphege, who had been martyred by the Danes. In the year +1067 the storms of the Norman Conquest overwhelmed St. Augustine’s church, +which was completely destroyed by fire, together with many royal deeds of +privilege and papal bulls, and other valuable documents.</p> + +<p>A description of the church thus destroyed is given by Prof. Willis, who +quotes all the ancient writers who mention it. The chief authority is +Eadmer, who was a boy at the monastery school when the Saxon church was +pulled down, and was afterwards a monk and “singer” in the cathedral. It +is he who tells us that it was arranged in some parts in imitation +<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 2]</span> of the +church of St. Peter at Rome. Odo had translated the body of Wilfrid, +Archbishop of York, from Ripon to Canterbury, and had “worthily placed it +in a more lofty receptacle, to use his own words, that is to say, in the +great Altar which was constructed of rough stones and mortar, close to the +wall at the eastern part of the presbytery. Afterwards another altar was +placed at a convenient distance before the aforesaid altar.... In this +altar the blessed Elphege had solemnly deposited the head of St. Swithin +... and also many relics of other saints. To reach these altars, a certain +crypt which the Romans call a Confessionary had to be ascended by means of +several steps from the choir of the singers. This crypt was fabricated +beneath in the likeness of the confessionary of St. Peter, the vault of +which was raised so high that the part above could only be reached by many +steps.” The resting-place of St. Dunstan was separated from the crypt +itself by a strong wall, for that most holy father was interred before the +aforesaid steps at a great depth in the ground, and at the head of the +saint stood the matutinal altar. Thence the choir of the singers was +extended westward into the body of the church.... In the next place, +beyond the middle of the length of the body there were two towers which +projected beyond the aisles of the church. The south tower had an altar in +the midst of it, which was dedicated in honour of the blessed Pope +Gregory.... Opposite to this tower and on the north, the other tower was +built in honour of the blessed Martin, and had about it cloisters for the +use of the monks.... The extremity of the church was adorned by the +oratory of Mary.... At its eastern part, there was an altar consecrated to +the worship of that Lady.... When the priest performed the Divine +mysteries at this altar he had his face turned to the east.... Behind him, +to the west, was the pontifical chair constructed with handsome +workmanship, and of large stones and cement, and far removed from the +Lord’s table, being contiguous to the wall of the church which embraced +the entire area of the building.</p> + +<p>Lanfranc, the first Norman archbishop, was granted the see in 1070. He +quickly set about the task of building himself a cathedral. Making no +attempt to restore the old fabric, he even destroyed what was left of the +monastic building, and built up an entirely new church and monastery. +Seven years<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 3]</span> sufficed to complete his cathedral, which stood on the same +ground as the earlier fane. His work, however, was not long left +undisturbed. It had not stood for twenty years before the east end of the +church was pulled down during the Archiepiscopate of Anselm, and rebuilt +in a much more splendid style by Ernulph, the prior of the monastery. +Conrad, who succeeded Ernulph as prior, finished the choir, decorating it +with great magnificence, and, in the course of his reconstruction, nearly +doubling the area of the building. Thus completed anew, the cathedral was +dedicated by Archbishop William in <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1130. At this notable ceremony the +kings of England and Scotland both assisted, as well as all the English +bishops. Forty years later this church was the scene of Thomas à Becket’s +murder (<span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1170), and it was in Conrad’s choir that the monks watched +over his body during the night after his death.</p> + +<p>Eadmer also gives some description of the church raised by Lanfranc. The +new archbishop, “filled with consternation” when he found that “the church +of the Saviour which he undertakes to rule was reduced to almost nothing +by fire and ruin,” proceeded to “set about to destroy it utterly, and +erect a more noble one. And in the space of seven years he raised this new +church from the very foundations and rendered it nearly perfect.... +Archbishop Anselm, who succeeded Lanfranc, appointed Ernulf to be +prior.... Having taken down the eastern part of the church which Lanfranc +had built, he erected it so much more magnificently, that nothing like it +could be seen in England, either for the brilliancy of its glass windows, +the beauty of its marble pavement, or the many coloured pictures which led +the wondering eyes to the very summit of the ceiling.” It was this part of +the church, however, that was completed by Ernulf’s successor, Conrad, and +afterwards known as Conrad’s choir. It appears that Anselm “allowed the +monks to manage their own affairs, and gave them for priors Ernulf, and +then Conrad, both monks of their own monastery. And thus it happened that, +in addition to the general prosperity and good order of their property, +which resulted from this freedom, they were enabled to enlarge their +church by all that part which stretches from the great tower to the east; +which work Anselm himself provided for,” having “granted to the said +church the revenues of his town of<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 4]</span> +Peckham, for seven years, the whole of +which were expended upon the new work.” Prof. Willis, unable to account +for the haste with which the east end of Lanfranc’s church was pulled +down, assumes that the monks “did not think their church large enough for +the importance of their monastery,” and moreover wanted shrine-room for +the display of relics. The main body of Lanfranc’s church was left +standing, and is described as follows by Gervase. “The tower, raised upon +great pillars, is placed in the midst of the church, like the centre in +the middle of a circle. It had on its apex a gilt cherub. On the west of +the tower is the nave of the church, supported on either side upon eight +pillars. Two lofty towers with gilded pinnacles terminate this nave or +aula. A gilded <em>corona</em> hangs in the midst of the church. A screen with a +loft (<em>pulpitum</em>) separated in a manner the aforesaid tower from the nave, +and had in the middle and on the side towards the nave, the altar of the +holy cross. Above the <em>pulpitum</em> and placed across the church, was the +beam, which sustained a great cross, two cherubim, and the images of St. +Mary and St. John the Apostle.... The great tower had a cross from each +side, to wit, a south cross and a north cross, each of which had in the +midst a strong pillar; this pillar sustained a vault which proceeded from +the walls on three of its sides,” etc. Prof. Willis considers that as far +as these parts of the building are concerned, the present fabric stands +exactly on the site of Lanfranc’s. “In the existing building,” he says, +“it happens that the nave and transepts have been transformed into the +Perpendicular style of the fourteenth century, and the central tower +carried up to about double its original altitude in the same style. +Nevertheless indications may be detected that these changed parts stand +upon the old foundations of Lanfranc.”</p> + +<p>The building, however, was not destined to remain long intact. In <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> +1174 the whole of Conrad’s choir was destroyed by a fire, which was +described fully by Gervase, a monk who witnessed it. He gives an +extraordinary account of the rage and grief of the people at the sight of +the burning cathedral. The work of rebuilding was immediately set on foot. +In September, 1174, one William of Sens, undertook the task, and wrought +thereat until 1178, when he was disabled by an unfortunate fall from a +scaffolding, and had to give up his charge and return to France. Another +William, an Englishman this<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 5]</span> time, took up the direction of the work, +and under his supervision the choir and eastern portion of the church were +finished in <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1184. Further alterations were made under Prior +Chillenden at the end of the fourteenth century. Lanfranc’s nave was +pulled down, and a new nave and transepts were constructed, leaving but +little of the original building set up by the first Norman archbishop. +Finally, about <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1495, the cathedral was completed by the addition of +the great central tower.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img04" id="img04"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<a href="images/img04.png"> +<img src="images/img04_th.png" width="250" height="400" alt="Plan" title="" /></a> +</div> +<p style="text-align: center; margin-left: 25%; margin-right: 25%;"> +<span class="caption">plan of canterbury cathedral, about a.d. 1165. +from a norman drawing inserted in the great psalter of eadwin, in the library of +trinity college, cambridge. first published in <em>vetusta monumenta</em> +(society of antiquaries, 1755). for full description and a plan of the +waterworks see <em>archæologia cantiana</em>, vol. vii., 1868.</span></p> + +<p>During the four centuries which passed during the construction and +reconstruction of the fabric, considerable changes had manifested +themselves in the science and art of architecture. Hence it is that +Canterbury Cathedral is a history, written in solid stone, of +architectural progress, illustrating in itself almost all the various +kinds of the style commonly called Pointed. Of these the earliest form of +Gothic and Perpendicular chiefly predominate. The shape and arrangement of +the building was doubtless largely influenced by the extraordinary number +of precious relics which it contained, and which had to be properly +displayed and fittingly enshrined. Augustine’s church had possessed the +bodies of St. Blaize and St. Wilfrid, brought respectively from Rome and +from Ripon; of St. Dunstan, St. Alphege, and St. Ouen, as well as the +heads of St. Swithin and St. Furseus, and the arm of St. Bartholomew. +These were all carefully removed and placed, each in separate altars and +chapels, in Lanfranc’s new cathedral. Here their number was added to by +the acquisition of new relics and sacred treasures as time went on, and +finally Canterbury enshrined its chiefest glory, the hallowed body of St. +Thomas à Becket, who was martyred within its walls.</p> + +<p>Since, owing to an almost incredible act of royal vindictiveness in <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> +1538, Becket’s glorious shrine belongs only to the history of the past, +some account of its splendours will not be out of place in this part of +our account of the cathedral. It stood on the site of the ancient chapel +of the Trinity, which was burnt down along with Conrad’s choir in the +destructive fire of <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1174. It was in this chapel that Thomas à Becket +had first solemnized mass after becoming archbishop. For this reason, as +we may fairly suppose, this position was chosen to enshrine the martyr’s +bones, after the rebuilding of the injured portion of the fabric. Though +the shrine itself has<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 8]</span> been ruthlessly destroyed, a mosaic pavement, +similar to that which may be seen round the tomb of Edward the Confessor +in Westminster Abbey, marks the exact spot on which it stood. The mosaic +is of the kind with which the floors of the Roman basilicas were generally +adorned, and contains signs of the zodiacs and emblems of virtues and +vices. This pavement was directly in front of the west side of the shrine. +On each side of the site is a deep mark in the pavement running towards +the east. This indentation was certainly worn in the soft, pinkish marble +by the knees of generations of pilgrims, who prostrated themselves here +while the treasures were displayed to their gaze. In the roof above there +is fixed a crescent carved out of some foreign wood, which has proved +deeply puzzling to antiquaries. A suggestion, which hardly seems very +plausible, connects this mysterious crescent with the fact that Becket was +closely related, as patron, with the Hospital of St. John at Acre. It was +believed that his prayers had once repulsed the Saracens from the walls of +the fortress, and he received the title of St. Thomas Acreusis. Near this +crescent a number of iron staples were to be seen at one time, and it is +likely that a trophy of some sort depended from them. The Watching Tower +was set high upon the Tower of St. Anselm, on the south side of the +shrine. It contained a fireplace, so that the watchman might keep himself +warm during the winter nights, and from a gallery between the pillars he +commanded a view of the sacred spot and its treasures. A troop of fierce +ban-dogs shared the task of guarding the shrine from theft. How necessary +such precautions were is shown by the fact that such a spot had to be +guarded not only from common robbers in search of rich booty, but also +from holy men, who were quite unscrupulous in their desire to possess +themselves and their own churches of sacred relics. Within the first six +years after Becket’s death we read of two striking instances of the +lengths to which distinguished churchmen were carried by what Dean Stanley +calls “the first frenzy of desire for the relics of St. Thomas.” Benedict, +a monk of Christ Church, and “probably the most distinguished of his +body,” was created Abbot of Peterburgh in <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1176. Disappointed to find +that his cathedral was very poor in the matter of relics he returned to +Canterbury, “took away with him the flagstones immediately surrounding the +sacred spot,<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 9]</span> with which he formed two altars in the conventual church of +his new appointment, besides two vases of blood and parts of Becket’s +clothing.” Still more striking and characteristic of the prevalent passion +for relics is the story of Roger, who was keeper of the “Altars of the +Martyrdom,” or “Custos Martyrii.” The brothers of St. Augustine’s Abbey +were so eager to obtain a share in the glory which their great rival, the +neighbouring cathedral, had won from the circumstances of Becket’s +martyrdom within its walls, that they actually offered Roger no less a +reward than the position of abbot in their own institution, on condition +that he should purloin for them some part of the remains of the martyr’s +skull. And not only did Roger, though he had been specially selected from +amongst the monks of Christ Church to watch over this very treasure, agree +to their conditions, and after duly carrying out this piece of +sacrilegious burglary become Abbot of St. Augustine’s; but the chroniclers +of the abbey were not ashamed to boast of this transaction as an instance +of cleverness and well-applied zeal.</p> + +<p>The translation of Becket’s remains from the tomb to his shrine took place +<span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1220, fifty years after his martyrdom. The young Henry III., who had +just laid the foundation of the new abbey at Westminster, assisted at the +ceremony. The primate then ruling at Canterbury was the great Stephen +Langton, who had won renown both as a scholar and a statesman. He had +carried out the division of the Bible into chapters, as it is now +arranged, and had won a decisive victory for English liberty by forcing +King John to sign the Great Charter. He was now advanced in years, and had +recently assisted at the coronation of King Henry at Westminster.</p> + +<p>The translation was carried out with imposing ceremony. The scene must +have been one of surpassing splendour; never had such an assemblage been +gathered together in England. Robert of Gloucester relates that not only +Canterbury but the surrounding countryside was full to overflowing:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">“Of bishops and abbots, priors and parsons,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of earls, and of barons, and of many knights thereto;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of serjeants, and of squires, and of husbandmen enow,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And of simple men eke of the land—so thick thither drew.”<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent"> +The archbishop had given notice two years before, proclaiming the day of +the solemnity throughout Europe as well as England:<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 10]</span> +the episcopal manors +had been bidden to furnish provisions for the huge concourse, not only in +the cathedral city, but along all the roads by which it was approached. +Hay and provisions were given to all who asked it between London and +Canterbury; at the gates of the city and in the four licensed cellars tuns +of wine were set up, that all who thirsted might drink freely, and wine +ran in the street channels on the day of the festival. During the night +before the ceremony the primate, together with the Bishop of Salisbury and +all the members of the brotherhood, who were headed by Walter the Prior, +solemnly, with psalms and hymns, entered the crypt in which the martyr’s +body lay, and removed the stones which covered the tomb. Four priests, +specially conspicuous for their piety, were selected to take out the +relics, which were then placed in a strong coffer studded with iron nails +and fastened with iron hasps.</p> + +<p>Next day a procession was formed, headed by the young king, Henry III. +After him came Pandulf, the Italian Bishop of Norwich and Papal Nuncio, +and Langton the archbishop, with whom was the Archbishop of Rheims, +Primate of France. The great Hubert de Burgh, Lord High Justiciary, +together with four other barons, completed the company, which was selected +to bear the chest to its resting-place. When this had been duly deposited, +a solemn mass was celebrated by the French archbishop. The anniversary of +this great festival was commemorated as the Feast of the Translation of +the Blessed St. Thomas, until it was suppressed by a royal injunction of +Henry VIII. in 1536.</p> + +<p>A picture of the shrine itself is preserved among the Cottonian MSS., and +a representation of it also exists in one of the stained windows of the +cathedral. At the end of it the altar of the Saint had its place; the +lower part of its walls were of stone, and against them the lame and +diseased pilgrims used to rub their bodies, hoping to be cured of their +afflictions. The shrine itself was supported on marble arches, and +remained concealed under a wooden covering, doubtless intended to enhance +the effect produced by the sudden revelation of the glories beneath it; +for when the pilgrims were duly assembled on their knees round the shrine, +the cover was suddenly raised at a given signal, and though such a device +may appear slightly theatrical in these days, it is easy to imagine how +the devotees<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 11]</span> of the middle ages must have been thrilled at the sight of +this hallowed tomb, and all the bravery of gold and precious stones which +the piety of that day had heaped upon it. The beauties of the shrine were +pointed out by the prior, who named the giver of the several jewels. Many +of these were of enormous value, especially a huge carbuncle, as large as +an egg, which had been offered to the memory of St. Thomas by Louis VII. +of France, who visited the shrine in <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1179, after having thrice seen +the Saint in a vision. A curious legend, thoroughly in keeping with the +mystic halo of miraculous power which surrounds the martyred archbishop’s +fame, relates that the French king could not make up his mind to part with +this invaluable gem, which was called the “Regale of France;” but when he +visited the tomb, the stone, so runs the story, leapt forth from the ring +in which it was set, and fixed itself of its own will firmly in the wall +of the shrine, thus baffling the unwilling monarch’s half-heartedness. +Louis also presented a gold cup, and gave the monks a hundred measures, +medii, of wine, to be delivered annually at Poissy, also ordaining that +they should be exempt from “toll, tax, and tallage” when journeying in his +realm. He himself was made a member of the brotherhood, after duly +spending a night in prayer at the tomb. It is said that, “because he was +very fearful of the water,” the French king received a promise from the +Saint that neither he nor any other that crossed over from Dover to +Whitsand, should suffer any manner of loss or shipwreck. We are told that +Louis’s piety was afterwards rewarded by the miraculous recovery, through +St. Thomas’s intercession, of his son from a dangerous illness. Louis was +the first of a series of royal pilgrims to the shrine. Richard the Lion +Heart, set free from durance in Austria, walked thither from Sandwich to +return thanks to God and St. Thomas. After him all the English kings and +all the Continental potentates who visited the shores of Britain, paid due +homage, and doubtless made due offering, at the shrine of the sainted +archbishop. The crown of Scotland was presented in <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1299 by Edward +Longshanks, and Henry V. gave thanks here after his victory over the +French at Agincourt. Emperors, both of the east and west, humbled +themselves before the relics of the famous English martyr. Henry VIII. and +the Emperor Charles V. came together at Whitsuntide, <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1520, in more +than royal<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 12]</span> splendour, and with a great retinue of English and Spanish +noblemen, and worshipped at the shrine which had then reached the zenith +of its glory.</p> + +<p>But though the stately stories of these royal progresses to the tomb of +the martyred archbishop strike the imagination vividly, yet the picture +presented by Chaucer’s “Canterbury Tales” is in reality much more +impressive. For we find there all ranks of society alike making the +pilgrimage—the knight, the yeoman, the prioress, the monk, the friar, the +merchant, the scholar from Oxford, the lawyer, the squire, the tradesman, +the cook, the shipman, the physician, the clothier from Bath, the priest, +the miller, the reeve, the manciple, the seller of indulgences, and, +lastly, the poet himself—all these various sorts and conditions of men +and women we find journeying down to Canterbury in a sort of motley +caravan. Foreign pilgrims also came to the sacred shrine in great numbers. +A curious record, preserved in a Latin translation, of the journey of a +Bohemian noble, Leo von Rotzmital, who visited England in 1446, gives a +quaint description of Canterbury and its approaches. “Sailing up the +Channel,” the narrator writes, “as we drew near to England we saw lofty +mountains full of chalk. These mountains seem from a distance to be clad +with snows. On them lies a citadel, built by devils, ‘<em>a Cacodæmonibus +extructa</em>,’ so stoutly fortified that its peer could not be found in any +province of Christendom. Passing by these mountains and citadel we put in +at the city of Sandwich (<em>Sandvicum</em>).... But at nothing did I marvel more +greatly than at the sailors climbing up the masts and foretelling the +distance, and approach of the winds, and which sails should be set and +which furled. Among them I saw one sailor so nimble that scarce could any +man be compared with him.” Journeying on to Canterbury, our pilgrim +proceeds: “There we saw the tomb and head of the martyr. The tomb is of +pure gold, and embellished with jewels, and so enriched with splendid +offerings that I know not its peer. Among other precious things upon it is +beholden the carbuncle jewel, which is wont to shine by night, half a +hen’s egg in size. For that tomb has been lavishly enriched by many kings, +princes, wealthy traders, and other righteous men.”</p> + +<p>Such was Canterbury Cathedral in the middle ages, the resort of emperors, +kings, and all classes of humble folk, English<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 13]</span> and foreign. It was in the +spring chiefly, as Chaucer tells us, that</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">“Whanne that April with his showres sote<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The droughte of March hath perced to the rote,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And bathed every veine in swiche licour,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of whiche vertue engendred is the flour;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">When Zephyrus eke with his sote brethe<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Enspired hath in every holt and hethe<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The tendre croppes, and the yonge sonne<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Hath in the Ram his halfe cours yronne,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And smale foules maken melodie<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That slepen alle night with open eye,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">So priketh hem nature in hir corages;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Than longen folk to gon on pilgrimages<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And palmeres for to seken strange strondes<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To serve hauves couthe in sondry londes;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And specially from every shires ende<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of Englelonde, to Canterbury they wende<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The holy blissful martyr for to seke,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That hem hath holpen when that they were seke.”<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>The miracles performed by the bones of the blessed martyr are stated by +contemporary writers to have been extraordinarily numerous. We have it on +the authority of Gervase that two volumes full of these marvels were +preserved at Canterbury, and in those days a volume meant a tome of +formidable dimensions; but scarcely any record of these most interesting +occurrences has been preserved. At the time of Henry VIII.’s quarrel with +the dead archbishop—of which more anon—the name of St. Thomas and all +account of his deeds was erased from every book that the strictest +investigation could lay hands on. So thoroughly was this spiteful edict +carried out that the records of the greatest of English saints are +astonishingly meagre. A letter, however, has been preserved, written about +<span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1390 by Richard II. to congratulate the then archbishop, William +Courtenay, on a fresh miracle performed by St. Thomas: “<em>Litera domini +Regis graciosa missa domino archiepiscopo, regraciando sibi de novo +miraculo Sancti Thome Martiris sibi denunciato.</em>” The letter refers, in +its quaint Norman-French, to the good influence that will be exercised by +such a manifestation, as a practical argument against the “various enemies +of our faith and belief”—<em>noz foie et creaunce ount plousours enemys</em>. +These were the Lollards, and the pious king says that he hopes and +believes that they will be brought back<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 14]</span> to the right path by the effect +of this miracle, which seems to have been worked to heal a distinguished +foreigner—<em>en une persone estraunge</em>.</p> + +<p>Another document (dated <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1455) preserves the story of the miraculous +cure of a young Scotsman, from Aberdeen, <em>Allexander Stephani filius in +Scocia, de Aberdyn oppido natus</em>. Alexander was lame, <em>pedibus +contractus</em>, from his birth, we are told that after twenty-four years of +pain and discomfort—<em>vigintiquatuor annis penaliter laborabat</em>—he made a +pilgrimage to Canterbury, and there “the sainted Thomas, the divine +clemency aiding him, on the second day of the month of May did straightway +restore his legs and feet, <em>bases et plantas</em>, to the same Alexander.”</p> + +<p>Other miracles performed by the saint are pictured in the painted windows +of Trinity Chapel, of which we shall treat fully later on. The fame of the +martyr spread through the whole of Christendom. Stanley tells us that +“there is probably no country in Europe which does not exhibit traces of +Becket. A tooth of his is preserved in the church of San Thomaso +Cantuariense at Verona, part of an arm in a convent at Florence, and +another part in the church of St. Waldetrude at Mons; in Fuller’s time +both arms were displayed in the English convent at Lisbon; while Bourbourg +preserves his chalice, Douay his hair shirt, and St. Omer his mitre. The +cathedral of Sens contains his vestments and an ancient altar at which he +said mass. His story is pictured in the painted windows at Chartres, and +Sens, and St. Omer, and his figure is to be seen in the church of Monreale +at Palermo.”</p> + +<p>In England almost every county contained a church or convent dedicated to +St. Thomas. Most notable of these was the abbey of Aberbrothock, raised, +within seven years after the martyrdom, to the memory of the saint by +William the Lion, king of Scotland. William had been defeated by the +English forces on the very day on which Henry II. had done penance at the +tomb, and made his peace with the saint, and attributing his misfortunes +to the miraculous influence of St. Thomas, endeavoured to propitiate him +by the dedication of this magnificent abbey. A mutilated image of the +saint has been preserved among the ruins of the monastery. This is perhaps +the most notable of the gifts to St. Thomas. The volume of the offerings +which were poured into the Canterbury coffers by grateful<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 15]</span> invalids who +had been cured of their ailments, and by others who, like the Scotch king, +were anxious to propitiate the power of the saint, must have been +enormous. We know that at the beginning of the sixteenth century the +yearly offerings, though their sums had already greatly diminished, were +worth about £4,000, according to the present value of money.</p> + +<p>The story of the fall of the shrine and the overthrow of the power of the +martyr is so remarkable and was so implicitly believed at the time, that +it cannot be passed over in spite of the doubts which modern criticism +casts on its authenticity. It is said that in April, <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1538, a writ of +summons was issued in the name of King Henry VIII. against Thomas Becket, +sometime Archbishop of Canterbury, accusing him of treason, contumacy, and +rebellion. This document was read before the martyr’s tomb, and thirty +days were allowed for his answer to the summons. As the defendant did not +appear, the suit was formally tried at Westminster. The Attorney General +held a brief for Henry II., and the deceased defendant was represented by +an advocate named by Henry VIII. Needless to relate, judgment was given in +favour of Henry II., and the condemned Archbishop was ordered to have his +bones burnt and all his gorgeous offerings escheated to the Crown. The +first part of the sentence was remitted and Becket’s body was buried, but +he was deprived of the title of Saint, his images were destroyed +throughout the kingdom, and his name was erased from all books. The shrine +was destroyed, and the gold and jewels thereof were taken away in +twenty-six carts. Henry VIII. himself wore the Regale of France in a ring +on his thumb. Improbable as the story of Becket’s trial may seem, such a +procedure was strictly in accordance with the forms of the Roman Catholic +Church, of which Henry still at that time professed himself a member: +moreover it is not without authentic parallels in history: exactly the +same measures of reprisal had been taken against Wycliffe at Lutterworth; +and Queen Mary shortly afterwards acted in a similar manner towards Bucer +and Fagius at Cambridge.</p> + +<p>The last recorded pilgrim to the shrine of St. Thomas was Madame de +Montreuil, a great French dame who had been waiting on Mary of Guise, in +Scotland. She visited Canterbury in August, <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1538, and we are told +that she was taken to see the wonders of the place and marvelled at all +the riches thereof,<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 16]</span> and said “that if she had not seen it, all the men in +the world could never ’a made her believe it.” Though she would not kiss +the head of St. Thomas, the Prior “did send her a present of coneys, +capons, chickens, with divers fruits—plenty—insomuch that she said, +‘What shall we do with so many capons? Let the Lord Prior come, and eat, +and help us to eat them tomorrow at dinner’ and so thanked him heartily +for the said present.”</p> + +<p>Such was the history of Becket’s shrine. We have dwelt on it at some +length because it is no exaggeration to say that in the Middle Ages +Canterbury Cathedral owed its European fame and enormous riches to the +fact that it contained the shrine within its walls, and because the story +of the influence of the Saint and the miracles that he worked, and the +millions of pilgrims who flocked from the whole civilized world to do +homage to him, throws a brighter and more vivid light on the lives and +thoughts and beliefs of mediæval men than many volumes stuffed with +historical research. No visitor to Canterbury can appreciate what he sees, +unless he realizes to some extent the glamour which overhung the resting +place of St. Thomas in the days of Geoffrey Chaucer. We have no certain +knowledge as to whether the other shrines and relics which enriched the +cathedral were destroyed along with those of St. Thomas. Dunstan and +Elphege at least can hardly have escaped, and it is probable that most of +the monuments and relics perished at the time of the Reformation. We know +that in <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1541, Cranmer deplored the slight effect which had been +wrought by the royal orders for the destruction of the bones and images of +supposed saints. And that he forthwith received letters from the king, +enjoining him to cause “due search to be made in his cathedral churches, +and if any shrine, covering of shrine, table, monument of miracles, or +other pilgrimage, do there continue, to cause it to be taken away, so as +there remain no memory of it.” This order probably brought about the +destruction of the tombs and monuments of the early archbishops, most of +whom had been officially canonised, or been at least enrolled in the +popular calendar, and were accordingly doomed to have their resting-places +desecrated. We know that about this time the tomb of Winchelsey was +destroyed, because he was adored by the people as a reputed saint.</p> + +<p>Any monuments that may have escaped royal vandalism at the Reformation +period, fell before the even more effective<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 17]</span> fanaticism of the Puritans, +who seem to have exercised their iconoclastic energies with especial zeal +and vigour at Canterbury. Just before their time Archbishop Laud spent a +good deal of trouble and money on the adornment of the high altar. A +letter to him from the Dean, dated July 8th, <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1634, is quoted by +Prynne, “We have obeyed your Grace’s direction in pulling down the +exorbitant seates within our Quire whereby the church is very much +beautified.... Lastly wee most humbly beseech your Grace to take notice +that many and most necessary have beene the occasions of extraordinary +expences this yeare for ornaments, etc.” And another Puritan scribe tells +us that “At the east end of the cathedral they have placed an Altar as +they call it dressed after the Romish fashion, for which altar they have +lately provided a most idolatrous costly glory cloth or back cloth.”</p> + +<p>These embellishments were not destined to remain long undisturbed. In <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> +1642, the Puritan troopers hewed the altar-rails to pieces and then “threw +the Altar over and over down the three Altar steps, and left it lying with +the heels upwards.” This was only the beginning: we read that during the +time of the Great Rebellion, “the newly erected font was pulled down, the +inscriptions, figures, and coats of arms, engraven upon brass, were torn +off from the ancient monuments, and whatsoever there was of beauty or +decency in the holy place, was despoiled.”</p> + +<p>A manuscript, compiled in 1662, and preserved in the Chapter library, +gives a more minute account of this work of destruction. “The windows were +generally battered and broken down; the whole roof, with that of the +steeples, the chapter-house and cloister, externally impaired and ruined +both in timber-work and lead; water-tanks, pipes, and much other lead cut +off; the choir stripped and robbed of her fair and goodly hangings; the +organ and organ-loft, communion-table, and the best and chiefest of the +furniture, with the rail before it, and the screen of tabernacle work +richly overlaid with gold behind it; goodly monuments shamefully abused, +defaced, and rifled of brasses, iron grates, and bars.”</p> + +<p>The ringleader in this work of destruction was a fanatic named Richard +Culmer, commonly known as Blue Dick. A paper preserved in the Chapter +library, in the writing of Somner, the great antiquarian scholar, +describes the state in which the<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 18]</span> fabric of the cathedral was left, at the +time of the Restoration of King Charles II., in 1660. “So little,” says +this document, “had the fury of the late reformers left remaining of it +besides the bare walles and roofe, and these, partly through neglect, and +partly by the daily assaults and batteries of the disaffected, so +shattered, ruinated, and defaced, as it was not more unserviceable in the +way of a cathedral than justly scandalous to all who delight to serve God +in the beauty of Holines.” Most of the windows had been broken, “the +church’s guardians, her faire and strong gates, turned off the hooks and +burned.” The buildings and houses of the clergy had been pulled down or +greatly damaged; and lastly, “the goodly oaks in our common gardens, of +good value in themselves, and in their time very beneficial to our church +by their shelter, quite eradicated and <em>set to sale</em>.” This last touch is +interesting, as showing that the reforming zeal of the Puritans was not +always altogether disinterested.</p> + +<p>After the Restoration some attempt was made to render the cathedral once +more a fitting place of worship, and the sum of £10,000 was devoted to +repairs and other public and pious uses. A screen was put up in the same +position as the former one, and the altar was placed in front. But, in +<span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1729, this screen no longer suited the taste of the period, and a sum +of £500, bequeathed by one of the prebendaries, was devoted to the +erection of a screen in the Corinthian style, designed by a certain Mr. +Burrough, afterwards Master of Caius College, Cambridge. A little before +this time the old stalls, which had survived the Puritan period were +replaced: a writer describes them, in the early half of the seventeenth +century, as standing in two rows, an upper and lower, on each side, with +the archbishop’s wood throne above them on the south side. This chair he +mentions as “sometime richly guilt, and otherwise well set forth, but now +nothing specious through age and late neglect. It is a close seat, made +after the old fashion of such stalls, called thence <em>faldistoria</em>; only in +this they differ, that they were moveable, this is fixt.”</p> + +<p>Thus wrote Somner in <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1640: the dilapidated throne of which he speaks +was replaced, in <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1704, by a splendid throne with a tall Corinthian +canopy, and decorated with carving by Grinling Gibbons, the gift of +Archbishop Tenison, who also set up new stalls. At the same time Queen +Mary the<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 19]</span> Second presented new and magnificent furniture for the altar, +throne, stalls of the chief clergy, and pulpit. Since then many +alterations have been made. The old altar and screen have been removed, +and a new reredos set up, copied from the screen work of the Lady Chapel +in the crypt; and Archbishop Tenison’s throne has given place to a lofty +stone canopy. In 1834 owing to its tottering condition the north-west +tower of the nave had to be pulled down. It was rebuilt on an entirely +different plan by Mr. George Austin, who, with his son, also conducted a +good deal of repairing and other work in the cathedral and the buildings +connected with it. A good deal of the external stonework had to be +renewed, but the work was carried out judiciously, and only where it was +absolutely necessary. On the west side of the south transept a turret has +been pulled down and set up again stone by stone. The crypt has been +cleared out and restored, and its windows have been reopened. The least +satisfactory evidences of the modern hand are the stained glass windows, +which have been put up in the nave and transepts of the cathedral. The +Puritan trooper had wrought havoc in the ancient glass, smashing it +wherever a pike-thrust could reach; and modern piety has been almost as +ruthless in erecting windows which are quite incredibly hideous.</p> + +<p>In September, 1872, Canterbury was once more damaged by fire, just about +seven hundred years after the memorable conflagration described by +Gervase. On this occasion, however, the damage did not go beyond the outer +roof of the Trinity Chapel. The fire broke out at about half-past ten in +the morning, and was luckily discovered before it had made much progress, +by two plumbers who were at work in the south gutter. According to the +“Builder” of that month, “a peculiar whirring noise” caused them to look +inside the roof, and they found three of the main roof-timbers blazing. “The +best conjecture seems to be that the dry twigs, straw, and similar +<em>débris</em>, carried into the roof by birds, and which it has been the custom +to clear at intervals out of the vault pockets, had caught fire from a +spark that had in some way passed through the roof covering, perhaps under +a sheet raised a little at the bottom by the wind.” Assistance was quickly +summoned, and “by half-past twelve the whole was seen to be extinguished. +At four o’clock the authorities held the evening service, so as not to +<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 20]</span> +break a continuity of custom extending over centuries; and in the +smoke-filled choir, the whole of the Chapter in residence, in the proper +Psalm (xviii.), found expression for the sense of victory over a conquered +enemy.”</p> + +<p>Thus little harm was done, but it must have been an exciting crisis while +it lasted. “The bosses [of the vaulting], pierced with cradle-holes, +happened to be well-placed for the passage of the liquid lead dripping on +the back of the vault from the blazing roof,” which poured down on to the +pavement below, on the very spot which Becket’s shrine had once occupied. +“Through the holes further westward water came, sufficient to float over +the surfaces of the polished Purbeck marble floor and the steps of the +altar, and alarmed the well-intentioned assistants into removing the +altar, tearing up the altar-rails, etc., etc. The relics of the Black +Prince, attached to a beam (over his tomb) at the level of the caps of the +piers on the south side of Trinity Chapel, were all taken down and placed +away in safety. The eastern end of the church is said to have been filled +with steam from water rushing through with, and falling on, the molten +lead on the floor; and, in time, by every opening, wood-smoke reached the +inside of the building, filling all down to the west of the nave with a +blue haze.” The scene in the building is said to have been one of +extraordinary beauty, but most lovers of architecture would probably +prefer to view the fabric with its own loveliness, unenhanced by numerous +streams of molten lead pouring down from the roof.</p> + +<p>Since that date Canterbury Cathedral has been happy in the possession of +no history, and we pass on, therefore, to the examination in detail of its +exterior.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img05" id="img05"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 256px;"> +<a href="images/img05.jpg"> +<img src="images/img05-th.jpg" width="256" height="400" alt="Cloisters" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">the cloisters.</span> +</div> + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'>[Pg 21]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a href="#CONTENTS">Table of<br />Contents</a></span></p> +<p class="center"><strong>EXTERIOR AND PRECINCTS—THE MONASTERY.</strong></p> + + +<p class="noindent"> +The external beauties of Canterbury Cathedral can best be viewed in their +entirety from a distance. The old town has nestled in close under the +walls of the church that dominates it, preventing anything like a complete +view of the building from the immediate precincts. But Canterbury is girt +with a ring of hills, from which we may enjoy a strikingly beautiful view +of the ancient city, lying asleep in the rich, peaceful valley of the +Stour, and the mighty cathedral towering over the red-tiled roofs of the +town, and looking, as a rustic remarked as he gazed down upon it “like a +hen brooding over her chickens.” Erasmus must have been struck by some +such aspect of the cathedral, for he says, “It rears its crest (<em>erigit +se</em>) with so great majesty to the sky, that it inspires a feeling of awe +even in those who look at it from afar.” Such a view may well be got from +the hills of Harbledown, a village about two miles from Canterbury, +containing in itself many objects of antiquarian and æsthetic interest. It +stands on the road by which Chaucer’s pilgrims wended their way to the +shrine of St. Thomas, and it is almost certainly referred to in the lines +in which the poet speaks of</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i8">“A little town<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Which that ycleped is Bob Up and Down<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Under the Blee in Canterbury way.”<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>The name Harbledown is derived by local philologists from Bob Up and Down, +and the hilly nature of the country fully justifies the title. Here stands +Lanfranc’s Lazar-house, “so picturesque even now in its decay, and in +spite of modern alterations which have swept away all but the ivy-clad +chapel<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 24]</span> of Lanfranc.” In this hospital a shoe of St. Thomas was preserved +which pilgrims were expected to kiss as they passed by; and in an old +chest the modern visitor may still behold a rude money-box with a slit in +the lid, into which the great Erasmus is said to have dropped a coin when +he visited Canterbury at the time when St. Thomas’s glory was just +beginning to wane. Behind the hospital is an ancient well called “the +Black Prince’s Well.” The Black Prince, as is well known, passed through +Canterbury on his way from Sandwich to London, whither he was escorting +his royal prisoner, King John of France, whom he had captured at the +battle of Poitiers, <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1357. We need not doubt that he halted at +Harbledown to salute the martyr’s shoe, and he may have washed in the +water of the well, which was henceforward called by his name. Another +tradition relates that he had water brought to him from this well when he +lay sick, ten years later, in the archbishop’s palace at Canterbury.</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'>[Pg 25]</span></p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img06" id="img06"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 447px;"> +<a href="images/img06.png"> +<img src="images/img06-th.png" width="447" height="400" alt="View on the Stour" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">view on the stour.</span> +</div> + +<p>Another good view may be had from the crest on which stands St. Martin’s +Church, which was formerly believed to be the oldest in England, so +ancient that its origin was connected with the mythical King Lucius. +Modern research has decided that it is of later date, but there is no +doubt that on the spot on which it now stands, Bertha, the wife of +Ethelbert—who was ruling when Augustine landed with his monks—had a +little chapel, as Bede relates, “in the east of the city,” where she +worshipped, before her husband’s conversion, with her chaplain, Luidhard, +a French priest. Dean Stanley has described this view in a fine passage:</p> + +<p>“Let any one sit on the hill of the little church of St. Martin, and look +on the view which is there spread before his eyes. Immediately below are +the towers of the great abbey of St. Augustine, where Christian learning +and civilization first struck root in the Anglo-Saxon race; and within +which, now, after a lapse of many centuries, a new institution has arisen, +intended to carry far and wide to countries of which Gregory and Augustine +never heard, the blessings which they gave to us. Carry your view on—and +there rises high above all the magnificent pile of our cathedral, equal in +splendour and state to any, the noblest temple or church, that Augustine +could have seen in ancient Rome, rising on the very ground which derives +its consecration from him. And still more than the grandeur of the outward +building that rose from the little church of Augustine, and the little +palace of Ethelbert, have been the institutions of all kinds, of which +these were the earliest cradle. From the first English Christian +city—from Kent, the first English Christian kingdom—has, by degrees, +arisen the whole constitution of Church and State in England which now +binds together the whole British Empire. And from the Christianity here +established in England has flowed, by direct consequence, first, the +Christianity of Germany—then after a long interval, of North America, and +lastly, we may trust in time, of all India and all Australasia. The view +from St. Martin’s Church is, indeed, one of the most inspiriting that can +be found in the world; there is none to which I would more willingly take +any one who doubted whether a small beginning could lead to a great and +lasting good—none which carries us more vividly back into the past, or +more hopefully forward to the future.”</p> + +<p>In the town itself, the best point of vantage from which the visitor can +get a good view of the cathedral is the summit of the Dane John, a lofty +mound crowned by an obelisk; from this height we look across at the roof +and towers of the cathedral rising above thickly clustering trees: from +here also there is a fine view over the beautiful valley of the Stour in +the direction of Thanington and Chartham.</p> + +<p>In the immediate precincts, a delightful picture is presented from the +Green Court, which was once the main outer court of the monastery. Here +are noble trees and beautifully kept turf, at once in perfect harmony and +agreeable contrast with the rugged walls of the weather-beaten cathedral: +the quiet soft colouring of the ancient buildings and that look of +cloistered seclusion only to be found in the peaceful nooks of cathedral +cities are seen here at their very best.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img07" id="img07"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 213px;"> +<a href="images/img07.png"> +<img src="images/img07-th.png" width="213" height="400" alt="Bell Harry" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">“bell harry,”<br /> the central tower.</span> +</div> + +<p>The chief glory of the exterior of Canterbury Cathedral is the central +<strong><a name="belltower" id="belltower"></a>Angel or Bell Tower</strong>. This is one of the most perfect structures that +Gothic architecture, inspired by the loftiest purpose that ever stimulated +the work of any art, has produced. It was completed by Prior Selling, who +held office in 1472, and has been variously called the Bell Harry Tower +from the mighty Dunstan bell, weighing three tons and three hundredweight, +and the Angel Tower from the gilded figure of an angel poised on one of +the pinnacles, which has long ago disappeared. The tower itself is of two +stages, with two two-light windows in each stage; the windows are +transomed in each face, and the lower tier is canopied; each angle is +rounded off with an octagonal turret and the whole structure is a +marvellous example of architectural harmony, and in every way a work of +transcendent beauty. The two buttressing arches and the ornamental braces +which support it were added at the end of the fifteenth century by Prior +Goldstone, to whom the building of the whole tower is apparently +attributed in the following quaint passage from a mediæval authority: “He +by the influence and help of those honourable men, Cardinal John Morton +and Prior William Sellyng, erected and magnificently completed that lofty +tower commonly called Angyll Stepyll in the midst of the church, between +the choir and the nave—vaulted with a most beautiful vault, and with +excellent and artistic workmanship in every part sculptured and gilt, with +ample windows glazed and ironed. He also with great care and industry +annexed to the columns which support the<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 27]</span> same tower two arches or +vaults of stone work, curiously carved, and four smaller ones, to assist +in sustaining the said tower” (“Ang. Sac.” i. 147, translated by Professor +Willis). The western front of the cathedral is flanked by two towers of +great beauty; a point in which Mediæval architecture has risen above that +of all other ages is the skill which it displays in the use of towers of +different heights, breaking the dull straight line of the roof and +carrying the eye gradually up to the loftiest point of the building. +Canterbury presents an excellent example of the beauty of this +subordination of lower towers to the chief; we invite the visitor, when +looking at the exterior, to compare it mentally, on the one hand, with the +dull severity of the roof line of a Greek temple, and on the other, to +take a fair example of modern so-called Gothic, with the ugly straight +line of the Houses of Parliament, as seen from the Lambeth Embankment, +broken only by the two stark and stiff erections at each end. The two +towers at the west end of Canterbury were not always uniform. At the +northern corner an old Norman tower formerly uplifted a leaden spire one +hundred feet high. This rather anomalous arrangement must have had a +decidedly lopsided effect, and it is probable that the appearance of the +cathedral was changed very much for the better when the spire, which had +been taken down in 1705, was replaced by Mr. Austin in 1840, by a tower +uniform with the southernmost tower, called the Chicele or Oxford steeple: +this tower was completed by Prior Goldstone, who, during his tenure of +office from 1449-68, also built the Lady Chapel. On its south side stands +the porch, with a remarkable central niche, which formerly contained a +representation of Becket’s martyrdom. The figures of the Archbishop’s +assassins now no longer remain; but their place has been filled up with +figures of various worthies who have lived under the shadow of the +cathedral. Dean Alford suggested, about 1863, that the many vacant niches +should be peopled in this manner, and since then the work has proceeded +steadily. The western towers are built each of six stages: each of the two +upper tiers contains two two-light windows, while below there is a large +four-light window uniform with the windows of the aisles. The base tier is +ornamented with rich panelling. The parapet is battlemented and the angles +are finished with fine double pinnacles. At the west end there is a large +window of seven lights, with three<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 28]</span> transoms. The gable contains a window +of very curious shape, filled with intricate tracery. The space above the +aisle windows is ornamented with quatrefoiled squares, and the clerestory +is pierced by windows of three lights. In the main transept there is a +fine perpendicular window of eight lights; the choir, or south-east +transept, has a Norman front, with arcades, and a large round window; also +an arcaded west turret surmounted by a short spire. Beyond this, the line +is again broken by the projection of St. Anselm’s so-called Tower; this +chapel hardly merits such a title, unless we adopt the theory that it, and +the corresponding building on the north side, were at one time a good deal +more lofty, but lost their upper portions at the time of the great fire. +The end of the cathedral has a rather untidy appearance, owing to the fact +that the exterior of the corona was never completed. On the northern side +the building is so closely interwoven with the cloister and monastic +buildings that it can only be considered in conjunction with them. The +length of the cathedral is 514 feet, the height of the central tower 235 +feet, and that of the western towers 130 feet.</p> + +<p>The chief interest of ancient buildings to the ordinary observer, as apart +from the architectural specialist, is the fact that they are after all the +most authentic documents in our possession from which we can gain any +insight into the lives and modes of thought of our ancestors. To tell us +how ordinary men lived and busied themselves is beneath the dignity of +history. As Carlyle says: “The thing I want to see is not Redbook Lists, +and Court Calendars, and Parliamentary Registers, but the <em>Life of Man</em> in +England: what men did, thought, suffered, enjoyed; ... Mournful, in truth, +is it to behold what the business ‘called History’ in these so enlightened +and illuminated times, still continues to be. Can you gather from it, read +till your eyes go out, any dimmest shadow of an answer to that great +question: How men lived and had their being; were it but economically, as, +what wages they got, and what they bought with these? Unhappily they +cannot.... History, as it stands all bound up in gilt volumes, is but a +shade more instructive than the wooden volumes of a backgammon-board.” +Most of us have felt, at one time or another, the truth of these words, +though it is only fair to add that the fault lies not so much at the door +of the<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 29]</span> modern historian as of our ancestors themselves, who were too busy +with fighting and revelling to leave any but the most meagre account of +their own lives behind them; so that “Redbook Lists and Parliamentary +Registers” are all that the veracious chronicler, who will not let his +imagination run riot, can find to put before us. But happily, in the +wildest days of the Middle Ages, there were found some peace-loving souls +who preferred to drone away their lives in quiet meditation behind the +walls of the great monasteries, undisturbed by the clash of swords. Some +outlet had to be found for their innate energies and their intense +religious enthusiasm; missionary zeal had not yet been invented, and the +writing of books would have seemed to them a waste of good parchment, for +in their eyes the Scriptures and the Aristotelian writings supplied all +the food that the most voracious intellect could crave for. So they +applied all their genius—and it is probable that the flower of the +European race, as far as intelligence and culture are concerned, was +gathered in those days into the Church—and all the ecstatic fervour of +their religious devotion, the strength of which men of these latter days +can hardly realize, to the construction of beautiful buildings for the +worship of God. They have written a history in stone, from which a +thoughtful student can supply much that is left out by the dry-as-dust +annalists, for it is not only the history, but the actual result and +expression, of the lives of the most gifted men of the Middle Ages.</p> + +<p>If we would read this history aright it is necessary that we should look +at it as far as possible, as it was originally published. If the old +binding has been torn off, and the volume hedged in by a crowd of modern +literature, we must try to put these aside and consider the book as it was +first issued; in other words, to drop metaphor altogether, in considering +a building like Canterbury Cathedral, we must forget the busy little +country town, with its crowded streets and noisy railway stations, though, +from one point of view, the contrast that they present is agreeable and +valuable, and try to conceive the church as it once stood, the centre of a +harmonious group of monastic buildings.</p> + +<p>The founder of the monastic system in the West was the famous Benedict of +Nursia, who had adapted the strict code of St. Basil, mitigating its +severity, and making it more in<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 30]</span> accordance with the climate, manners, and +general circumstances of Western peoples. His code was described by +Gregory the Great as “excellent in its discretion, lucid in its +expression”—<em>discretione præcipuam sermone luculentam</em>. He founded the +monasteries of Montecassino and Subiaco in the beginning of the sixth +century. In the ninth and tenth centuries—the worst period of the Dark +Ages—corruption and laxity pervaded society in general, and the +Benedictine monasteries especially. At the end of this deplorable epoch +many efforts were made in the direction of reform. Gregory the Great +himself was a member of the Benedictine brotherhood; so also was +Augustine, who founded the great monastery of Christ Church. The venerable +Bede relates that “when Augustine, the first Archbishop of Canterbury, +assumed the episcopal throne in that royal city, he recovered therein, by +the king’s assistance, a church which, as he was told, had been +constructed by the original labour of Roman believers. This church he +consecrated in the name of the Saviour, our God and Lord Jesus Christ, and +there he established an habitation for himself and all his successors.” +This was the Basilica-Church, mentioned in an earlier part of this work, +an imitation of the original Basilica of St. Peter at Rome. Augustine’s +monastery was handsomely endowed. A large stretch of country was given to +the monks, and they were the first who brought the soil into cultivation, +and built churches and preached in them. “The monks,” says Bede, “were the +principal of those who came to the work of preaching.” In the city itself +there were thirty-two “mansuræ” or mansions, held by the clergy, rendering +35<em>s.</em> a year, and a mill worth 5<em>s.</em> per annum. Augustine’s monastery +lived and prospered—though, as we shall see, it did not escape the +general corruption of the eighth and ninth centuries—until the time of +the Norman invasion. In 1067 a fire destroyed the Saxon cathedral and the +greater part of the monastic buildings. But the year 1070 marks an epoch +in the history of the monastery, for it was then that William the +Conqueror having deposed Stigand, the Saxon Primate, invited Lanfranc, the +Abbot of Caen, to accept the vacant see. He “being overcome by the will of +God as much as by the apostolic authority, passed over into England, and, +not forgetful of the object for which he had come, directed all his +endeavours to the correction of the manners of his<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 31]</span> people, and settling +the state of the Church. And first he laboured to renew the church of +Canterbury ... and built also necessary offices for the use of the monks; +and (which is very remarkable) he caused to be brought over the sea in +swift sailing vessels squared stones from Caen in order to build with. He +also built a house for his own dwelling near the church, and surrounded +all these buildings with a vast and lofty wall.” Also “he duly arranged +all that was necessary for the table and clothing of the monks,” and “many +lands which had been taken away he brought back into the property of the +Church and restored to it twenty-five manors.” He also added one hundred +to the original number of the monks, and drew up a new system of +discipline to correct the laxity which was rife when he entered on the +primacy. He tells Anselm in a letter that “the land in which he is, is +daily shaken with so many and so great tribulations, is stained with so +many adulteries and other impurities, that no order of men consults for +the benefit of his soul, or even desires to hear the salutary doctrine of +God for his increase in holiness.” Perhaps the most interesting feature of +his reconstruction of the “regula,” or rule for the monks’ discipline, was +his enactment with regard to the library and the studies of the brethren. +In the first week in Lent, the monks had to bring back and place in the +Chapter House the books which had been provided for their instruction +during the previous year. Those who had not duly performed the yearly +portion of reading prostrated themselves, confessing their fault and +asking pardon. A fresh distribution was then made, and the brethren +retired, each furnished with a year’s literary task. Apparently no +examination was held, no test applied to discover whether the last year’s +instruction had been digested and assimilated. It was assumed that +anything like a perfunctory performance of the allotted task was out of +the question.</p> + +<p>Another important alteration introduced by Lanfranc was his inauguration +of the system under which the monastery was in immediate charge, no longer +of the archbishop, but of a prior. Henceforward the primate stood forth as +the head of the Church, rather than as merely the chief of her most +ancient foundation.</p> + +<p>We have dwelt at some length on the subject of the monastery at +Canterbury, because, as we have said, it is impossible<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 32]</span> to learn the +lesson of the cathedral truly, unless we regard the fabric in its original +setting, surrounded by monastic buildings; and it is impossible to +interest ourselves in the monastic buildings without knowing something of +the institution which they housed.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img08" id="img08"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 489px;"> +<a href="images/img08.png"> +<img src="images/img08-th.png" width="489" height="400" alt="Detail St Anselms Tower" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">detail of st. anselm’s tower.</span> +</div> + +<p>The buildings which contained a great <a name="monastery" id="monastery"></a><strong>monastery</strong> like that of Canterbury +were necessarily very extensive. Chief among them was the chapter house, +which generally adjoined the principal cloister, bounded by the nave of +the church and one of the transepts. Then there were the buildings +necessary for the actual housing and daily living of the monks—the +dormitory, refectory, kitchen, buttery, and other indispensable offices. +Another highly important building, usually standing eastward of the +church, was the infirmary or hospital for sick brethren, with its chapel +duly attached. Further, the rules of Benedictine monasteries always +enjoined the strict observance of the duty of hospitality, and some part +of the buildings was invariably set aside for the due entertainment of +strangers of various ranks. Visitors of distinction were entertained in +special rooms which generally were attached to the house of the prior or +abbot: guests of a lower order were lodged hard<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 35]</span> by the hall of the +cellarer; while poor pilgrims and chance wanderers who craved a night’s +shelter were bestowed, as a rule, near the main gate of the monastery. +Lastly, it must not be forgotten that a well-endowed monastery was always +the steward of a great estate, so that many storehouses and +farm-buildings—barns, granaries, bakehouse, etc.—were a necessary part +of the institution. Extensive stabling was also required to shelter the +horses of illustrious visitors and their suites. Moreover, the clergy +themselves were often greatly addicted to the chase, and we know that the +pious St. Thomas found time to cultivate a taste for horseflesh, which was +remarkable even in those days when all men who wanted to move at all were +bound to ride. The knights who murdered him thought it worth while to +pillage his stable after accomplishing their errand.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img09" id="img09"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 267px;"> +<a href="images/img09.jpg"> +<img src="images/img09-th.jpg" width="267" height="400" alt="Christchurch Gate" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">the christchurch gate (from a photograph by carl norman and +co).</span> +</div> + +<p>The centre round which all these manifold buildings and offices were +ranged was, of course, the cathedral. Wherever available space and the +nature of the ground permitted it, the cloister and chief buildings were +placed under the shelter of the church on its southern side, as may be +seen, for instance, at Westminster, where the cloisters, chapter house, +deanery, refectory (now the College Hall), etc., are all gathered on the +south side of the Abbey. At Canterbury, however, the builders were not +able to follow the usual practice, owing to the fact that they were hemmed +in closely by the houses of the city on the south side, so that we find +that the space between the north side of the cathedral and the city wall, +all of which belonged to the monks, was the site of the monastic +buildings. The whole group formed by the cathedral and the subsidiary +buildings was girt by a massive wall, which was restored and made more +effective as a defence by Lanfranc. It is probable that some of the +remains of this wall, which still survive, may be considered as dating +from his time. The chief gate, both in ancient and modern days, is Prior +Goldstone’s Gate, usually known as <a name="gate" id="gate"></a><strong>Christ Church Gate</strong>, an exceedingly good +example of the later Perpendicular style. A contemporary inscription tells +us that it was built in 1517. It stands at the end of Mercery Lane, a +lofty building with towers at its corners, and two storeys above the +archway. In front there is a central niche, in which an image of our +Saviour originally stood, while below a row of shields, much battered and +weather-beaten,<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 36]</span> display armorial bearings, doubtless those of pious +contributors to the cost of the building. An early work of Turner’s has +preserved the corner pinnacles which once decorated the top of the gate; +these were removed some thirty years ago.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img10" id="img10"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 578px;"> +<a href="images/img10.jpg"> +<img src="images/img10-th.jpg" width="578" height="400" alt="South West Porch" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">the south-west porch of the cathedral.</span> +</div> + + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img11" id="img11"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 299px;"> +<a href="images/img11.png"> +<img src="images/img11_th.png" width="299" height="400" alt="Monks Infirmary" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">cloisters of the monks’ infirmary.</span> +</div> + +<p>Entering the precincts through this gateway we find ourselves in what was +the <em>outer</em> cemetery, in which members of the laity were allowed to be +buried. The <em>inner</em> cemetery, reserved as a resting-place for the brethren +themselves, was formerly divided from the outer by a wall which extended +from St. Anselm’s chapel. A Norman door, which was at one time part of +this wall, has now been put into a wall at the east end of the monks’ +burying ground. This space is now called “The Oaks.” A bell tower, +<em>campanile</em>, doubtless used for tolling the passing bell, once stood on a +mound in the cemetery, close to the dividing wall. The houses on the south +side of this space are of no great antiquity or interest, and the site on +which they stand did not become part of the monastery grounds before a +comparatively late period. But if we skirt the east<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 38]</span> end of the cathedral +we come to the space formerly known as the “Homors,” a word supposed to be +a corruption of <em>Ormeaux</em>, a French word, meaning elms.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> Here stood the +building in which guests of rank and distinction were entertained; and the +great hall, with its kitchen and offices, is still preserved in a house in +the north-east corner of the inclosure, now the residence of one of the +prebendaries. The original building was one of great importance in a +monastery like Canterbury, which was so often visited, as has already been +shown, by royal pilgrims. It is said to have been rebuilt from top to +bottom by Prior Chillenden, and the nature of the architecture, as far as +it can be traced, is not in any way at variance with this statement. The +hall, as it originally stood, was pierced with oriel windows rising to the +roof, and at its western end a walled-off portion was divided into two +storeys, the lower one containing the kitchens, while the upper one was +either a distinct room separated from the hall, or it may have been a +gallery opening upon it.</p> + +<p>To the west of this house we find the <a name="ruins" id="ruins"></a><strong>ruins of the Infirmary</strong>, which +contained a long hall with aisles, and a chapel at the east end. The hall +was used as the hospital, and the aisles were sometimes divided into +separate compartments; the chapel was really part of the hall, with only a +screen intervening, so that the sick brethren could take part in the +services. This infirmary survived until the Reformation period, but not +without undergoing alterations. Before the fifteenth century the south +aisle was devoted to the use of the sub-prior, and the chancel at the east +end of the chapel was partially restored about the middle of the +fourteenth century. A large east window was put in with three-light +windows on each side. In the north wall there is a curious opening, +through which, perhaps, sufferers from infectious diseases were allowed to +assist at the services. On the southern side, the whole row of the pillars +and arches of the chapel, and some traces of a clerestory, still remain. +On the wall are some traces of paintings, which are too faded to be +deciphered. Such of the pillars and arches of the hall as still survive +are strongly coloured by the great fire of 1174, in which Prior Conrad’s +choir was destroyed.</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><a name="img12" id="img12"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 254px;"> +<a href="images/img12.jpg"> +<img src="images/img12-th.jpg" width="254" height="400" alt="Ruins Monks Infirmary" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">ruins of the monks’ infirmary.</span> +</div> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img13" id="img13"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 310px;"> +<a href="images/img13.png"> +<img src="images/img13_th.png" width="310" height="400" alt="Baptistery Tower" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">the baptistery tower.</span> +</div> + +<p>Westward of the infirmary, and connected with St. Andrew’s tower, stands a +strikingly beautiful building, which was once <a name="treasury" id="treasury"></a><strong>the Vestiarium, or Treasury</strong>: +it consists of two storeys,<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 41]</span> of which the lower is open on the east and +west, while the upper contained the treasury chamber, a finely +proportioned room, decorated with an arcade of intersecting arches.</p> + +<p>An archway leads us from the infirmary into what is called the Dark Entry, +whence a passage leads to the Prior’s Gate and onward into the Prior’s +Court, more commonly known as the Green Court: this passage was the +eastern boundary of the infirmary cloister. Over it Prior de Estria raised +the <em>scaccarium</em>, or checker-building, the counting-house of the +monastery.</p> + +<p>Turning back towards the infirmary entrance we come to <a name="lavatory" id="lavatory"></a><strong>the Lavatory Tower</strong>, +which stands out from the west end of the substructure of the Prior’s +Chapel. The chapel itself was pulled down at the close of the seventeenth +century, and a brick-built library was erected on its site. The lavatory +tower is now more commonly called the baptistery, but this name gives a +false impression, and only came into use because the building now contains +a font, given to the cathedral by Bishop Warner. The lower part of the +tower is late Norman in style, and was built in the latter half of the +twelfth century, when the monastery was supplied with a system of works by +which water was drawn from some distant springs, which still supply the +cathedral and precincts. The water was distributed from this tower to the +various buildings. The original designs of the engineer are preserved at +Trinity College, Cambridge. The upper part of the tower was rebuilt by +Prior Chillenden.</p> + +<p>From the lavatory tower a covered passage leads into the great cloister, +which can also be approached from a door in the north-west transept. The +cloister, though it stands upon the space covered by that built by +Lanfranc, is largely the work of the indefatigable Prior Chillenden. It +shows traces of many architectural periods. The east walk contains a door, +leading into the transept, embellished with a triple arcade of early +English; under the central arch of the arcade is the doorway itself, a +later addition in Perpendicular. There is also a Norman doorway which once +communicated with the monks’ dormitory: after the Reformation it was +walled up, but in 1813 the plaster which concealed it was taken away, and +since then it has been carefully restored. The rest of the work in this +part of the cloister is chiefly Perpendicular. The north walk is adorned +with an Early English arcade, against<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 43]</span> which the shafts which support +Chillenden’s vaulting work are placed with rather unsatisfactory effect. +Towards the western end of this walk is the door of the refectory.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img14" id="img14"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 236px;"> +<a href="images/img14.png"> +<img src="images/img14_th.png" width="236" height="400" alt="Turret South West Transept" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">turret of south-west transept.</span> +</div> + +<p>The cellarer’s quarters were outside the west walk, and they were +connected with the cloister by a doorway at the north-west corner: +opposite this entrance was a door leading to the archbishop’s palace, and +through this Becket made his way towards the cathedral when his murderers +were in pursuit of him.</p> + +<p>The great dormitory of the monks was built along the east walk of the +cloister, extending some way beyond it. It was pulled down in 1547, but +the substructure was left standing, and some private houses were erected +upon it. These were removed in the middle of the last century, and a good +deal of the substructure remained until 1867, when the vaulting which +survived was pulled down to make way for the new library, which was +erected on the dormitory site. Some of the pillars on which the vault of +the substructure rested are preserved in a garden in the precincts; and a +fragment of the upper part of the dormitory building, which escaped the +demolition in 1547, may be seen in the gable of the new library. The +substructure was a fine building, 148 feet by 78 feet; the vaulting was, +as described by Professor Willis, “of the earliest kind; constructed of +light tufa, having no transverse ribs, and retaining the impressions of +the rough, boarded centring upon which they had been formed.” A second +minor dormitory ran eastward from the larger one, while outside this was +the third dormitory, fronting the Green Court. Some portion of the vaults +of this building is still preserved in the garden before the lavatory +tower.</p> + +<p><a name="chapter" id="chapter"></a><strong>The Chapter House</strong> lies eastward of the wall of the cloister, on the site +of the original Norman building, which was rather less extensive. The +present structure is oblong in shape, measuring 90 feet by 35 feet. The +roof consists of a “barrel vault” and was built by Prior Chillenden, along +with the whole of the upper storey at the end of the fourteenth century. +The windows, high and four-lighted, are also his work; those at the east +and west ends exceed in size all those of the cathedral, having seven +lights. The lower storey was built by Prior de Estria about a century +before the work was completed by Chillenden. De Estria also erected the +choir-screen in the<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 45]</span> cathedral, which will be described in its proper +place. The walls of the chapter house are embellished with an arcade of +trefoiled arches, surmounted by a cornice. At the east end stands a throne +with a splendid canopy. This building was at one time, after the +Reformation, used as a sermon house, but the inconvenience caused by +moving the congregation from the choir, where service was held, across to +the chapter house to hear the discourse, was so great that the practice +was not long continued. It has been restored, and its opening by H.R.H. +the Prince of Wales, May 29th, 1897, is announced just as this edition +goes to press.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img15" id="img15"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 280px;"> +<a href="images/img15.png"> +<img src="images/img15_th.png" width="280" height="400" alt="The Cloisters" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">the cloisters.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="library" id="library"></a><strong>The Library</strong> covers a portion of the site of the monks’ dormitory. Stored +within it is a fine collection of books, some of which are exceedingly +rare. The most valuable specimens—among which are some highly interesting +bibles and prayer-books—are jealously guarded in a separate apartment +called the study. The most interesting document in the collection of +charters and other papers connected with the foundation is the charter of +Edred, probably written by Dunstan <em>propriis digitorum articulis</em>; this +room also contains an ancient picture of Queen Edgiva painted on wood, +with an inscription below enlarging on the beauties of her character and +her munificence towards the monastery.</p> + +<p>In the garden before the lavatory tower, to the west of the prior’s +gateway, two columns are preserved which once were part of the ancient +church at Reculver—formerly Regulbium, whither Ethelbert retired after +making over his palace in Canterbury to Augustine. These columns were +brought to Canterbury after the destruction, nearly a hundred years ago, +of the church to which they belonged. After lying neglected for some time +they were placed in their present position by Mr. Sheppard, who bestowed +so much care on all the “antiquities” connected with the cathedral. These +columns are believed by experts to be undoubted relics of Roman work: they +are of circular form with Ionic capitals. A curious ropework decoration on +the bases is said to be characteristically Roman, occurs on a monument +outside the Porta Maggiore at Rome.</p> + +<p><a name="deanery" id="deanery"></a><strong>The Deanery</strong> is a very much revised version of what once was the “New +Lodging,” a building set up for the entertainment of strangers by Prior +Goldstone at the beginning of the sixteenth century. Nicholas Wotton, the +first Dean, chose this<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 48]</span> mansion for his abode, but since his day the +building has been very materially altered.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img16" id="img16"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 596px;"> +<a href="images/img16.jpg"> +<img src="images/img16-th.jpg" width="596" height="400" alt="Norman Staircase" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">norman staircase in the close (from a photograph by carl +norman and co.).</span> +</div> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img17" id="img17"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 811px;"> +<a href="images/img17.png"> +<img src="images/img17_th.png" width="811" height="400" alt="Detail Norman Staircase" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">details of the norman staircase in the close.</span> +</div> + +<p>The main gate of the <a name="green" id="green"></a><strong>Green Court</strong> is noticeable as a choice specimen of +Norman work; on its northern side formerly stood the Aula Nova which was +built in the twelfth century; the modern buildings which house the King’s +School have supplanted the hall itself, but the splendid staircase, a +perfect example of Norman style and quite unrivalled in England, is +luckily preserved, and ranks among the chief glories of Canterbury.</p> + +<p>The site of the archbishop’s palace is commemorated by the name of the +street—Palace Street—in which a ruined archway, all that remains of the +building, may still be seen. This mansion, in which so many royal and +imperial guests had been entertained with “solemne dauncing” and other +good cheer, was pillaged and destroyed by the Puritans; since then the +archbishops have had no official house in their cathedral city.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img18" id="img18"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 409px;"> +<a href="images/img18.png"> +<img src="images/img18_th.png" width="409" height="400" alt="Details of Ornament" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">details of ornament.</span> +</div> + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'>[Pg 50]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a href="#CONTENTS">Table of<br />Contents</a></span></p> +<p class="center"><strong>INTERIOR.</strong></p> + + +<p class="noindent"> +Dean Stanley tells us that in the days of our Saxon forefathers and for +some time after, “all disputes throughout the whole kingdom that could not +be legally referred to the king’s court or to the hundreds of counties” +were heard and judged on in the south porch of Canterbury Cathedral. This +was always the principal entrance, and was known in early days as the +“Suthdure” by which name it is often mentioned in “the law books of the +ancient kings.” Through this door we enter the nave of the cathedral; this +part of the building was erected towards the end of the fourteenth +century; Lanfranc’s nave seems to have fallen into an unsafe and ruinous +state, so much so that in December, 1378, Sudbury, who was then +archbishop, “issued a mandate addressed to all ecclesiastical persons in +his diocese enjoining them to solicit subscriptions for rebuilding the +nave of the church, ‘<em>propter ipsius notoriam et evidentem ruinam</em>’ and +granting forty days’ indulgence to all contributors.” Archbishop Courtenay +gave a thousand marks and more for the building fund, and Archbishop +Arundell gave a similar contribution, as well as the five bells which were +known as the “Arundell ryng.” We are told also that “King Henry the 4th +helped to build up a good part of the Body of the Chirch.” The immediate +direction of the work was in the hands of Prior Chillenden, already +frequently mentioned; his epitaph, quoted by Professor Willis, states that +“Here lieth Thomas Chyllindene formerly Prior of this Church, <em>Decretorum +Doctor egregius</em>, who caused the nave of this Church and divers other +buildings to be made anew. Who after nobly ruling as prior of this Church +for twenty years twenty five weeks and five days, at length on the day of +the assumption of the Blessed<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 51]</span> Virgin Mary closed his last day. In the +year of the Lord 1411.” It is not certain that Chillenden actually +designed the buildings which were erected under his care, with which his +name is connected. For we know that work which was conceived and executed +by humble monks was ascribed as a matter of course to the head of the +monastery, under whose auspices and sanction it was carried out. Matthew +Paris records that a new oaken roof, well covered with lead, was built for +the aisles and tower of St. Alban’s by Michael of Thydenhanger, monk and +<em>camerarius</em>; but he adds that “these works must be ascribed to the abbot, +out of respect for his office, for he who sanctions the performance of a +thing by his authority, is really the person who does the thing.” Prior +Chillenden became prior in 1390, and seems at any rate to have devoted a +considerable amount of zeal to the work of renovating the ruined portions +of the church.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img19" id="img19"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 237px;"> +<a href="images/img19.jpg"> +<img src="images/img19-th.jpg" width="237" height="400" alt="Murder of St Thomas" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p style="text-align: center; margin-left: 25%; margin-right: 25%;"><span class="caption">the murder of st. thomas à becket. (restoration, by t. +carter, of a painting on board hung on a column near the tomb of henry +iv.).</span></p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img20" id="img20"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 272px;"> +<a href="images/img20.jpg"> +<img src="images/img20-th.jpg" width="272" height="400" alt="Shrine of St Thomas" title="" /></a> +</div> +<p style="text-align: center; margin-left: 25%; margin-right: 25%;"><span class="caption">the shrine of st. thomas à becket. (specially reproduced +from a drawing among the cottonian mss. brit. mus.)</span></p> + + +<p>The new <a name="nave" id="nave"></a><strong>Nave</strong> replaced the original building of Lanfranc. Professor Willis +says: “The whole of Lanfranc’s piers, and all that rested on them, appear +to have been utterly demolished, nothing remaining but the plinth of the +side-aisle walls.... The style [of Chillenden’s new work] is a light +Perpendicular, and the arrangement of the parts has a considerable +resemblance to that of the nave of Winchester, although the latter is of a +much bolder character. Winchester nave was going on at the same time with +Canterbury nave, and a similar uncertainty exists about the exact +commencement. In both, a Norman nave was to be transformed; but at +Winchester the original piers were either clothed with new ashlaring, or +the old ashlaring was wrought into new forms and mouldings where possible; +while in Canterbury the piers were altogether rebuilt. Hence the piers of +Winchester are much more massive. The side-aisles of Canterbury are higher +in proportion, the tracery of the side windows different, but those of the +clerestory are almost identical in pattern, although they differ in the +management of the mouldings. Both have ‘lierne’ vaults [<em>i.e.</em>, vaults in +which short transverse ribs or ‘liernes’ are mixed with the ribs that +branch from the vaulting capitals], and in both the triforium is obtained +by prolonging the clerestory windows downward, and making panels of the +lower lights, which panels have a plain opening cut through them, by which +the triforium space communicates with the passage over the roof of the +side-<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 53]</span>aisles.” Chillenden, then, setting to work with the thoroughness +that marks his handiwork throughout, rebuilt the nave from top to bottom, +leaving nothing of Lanfranc’s original structure save the “plinth of the +side-aisle walls,” which still remains. The resemblance between the naves +of Canterbury and Winchester, pointed out by Professor Willis, will at +once strike a close observer, though the greater boldness of character +shown in the Winchester architecture is by no means the only point of +difference. The most obvious feature in the Canterbury nave—a point which +renders its arrangement unique among the cathedrals both of England and +the Continent—is the curious manner in which the choir is raised aloft +above the level of the floor; this is owing to the fact that it stands +immediately above the crypt; the flight of steps which is therefore +necessarily placed between the choir and the nave adds considerably to the +general effect of our first view of the interior. On the other hand, the +raising of the choir is probably to some extent responsible for the great +height of the nave in comparison with its length, a point which spoils its +effectiveness when we view it from end to end. Stanley, in describing the +entrance of the pilgrims into the cathedral, points out how different a +scene must have met their eyes. “The external aspect of the cathedral +itself,” he says, “with the exception of the numerous statues which then +filled its now vacant niches, must have been much what it is now. Not so +its interior. Bright colours on the roof, on the windows, on the +monuments; hangings suspended from the rods which may still be seen +running from pillar to pillar; chapels, and altars, and chantries +intercepting the view, where now all is clear, must have rendered it so +different, that at first we should hardly recognize it to be the same +building.” The pilgrims on entering were met by a monk, who sprinkled +their heads with holy water from a “sprengel,” and, owing to the crowd of +devout visitors, they generally had to wait some time before they could +proceed towards a view of the shrine. Chaucer relates that the “pardoner, +and the miller, and other lewd sots,” whiled away the time with staring at +the painted windows which then adorned the nave, and wondering what they +were supposed to represent:</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'>[Pg 55]</span></p> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">“‘He beareth a ball-staff,’ quoth the one, ‘and also a rake’s end;’<br /></span> +<span class="i0">‘Thou failest,’ quoth the miller, ‘thou hast not well thy mind;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">It is a spear, if thou canst see, with a prick set before,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To push adown his enemy, and through the shoulder bore.’”<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img21" id="img21"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 605px;"> +<a href="images/img21.png"> +<img src="images/img21_th.png" width="605" height="400" alt="Capitals of Columns" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">capitals of columns in the eastern apse.</span> +</div> + +<p>None of these windows now remain entire, though the west window has been +put together out of fragments of the ancient glass. The latter-day +pilgrims will do well to look as little as possible at the hideous glass +which the Philistinism of modern piety has inserted, during the last +half-century, in the windows of the clerestory and the nave. Its obtrusive +unpleasantness make one wish that “Blue Dick” and his Puritan troopers +might once more be let loose, under judicious direction, for half an hour +on the cathedral. When Erasmus visited Canterbury, the nave contained +nothing but some books chained to the pillars, among them the “Gospel of +Nicodemus”—printed by Wynkyn de Worde in 1509—and the “tomb of some +person unknown.” The last words must refer either to the chapel in the +south wall, which was built by Lady Joan Brenchley in 1447, and removed in +1787, or to the monument of Archbishop William Wittlesey, who died in +1374, and was interred in the south side of the nave in a marble tomb with +a brass, now destroyed. At present the south aisle contains a monument, in +alabaster, to Dr. Broughton, sometime Bishop of Sydney, who was educated +in the King’s School, under the shadow of the cathedral. The figure is +recumbent, and the base of the monument, which is by Lough, is decorated +with the arms of the six Australian sees. In the north aisle we find +monuments to Orlando Gibbons, Charles I.’s organist; Adrian Saravia, +prebendary of Canterbury, and the friend of Hooker, the author of the +“Ecclesiastical Polity;” Sir John Boys, who founded a hospital for the +poor outside the north gate of the town, and died in 1614; Dean Lyall, who +died in 1857; and Archbishop Sumner, who died in 1862. These last two +monuments are by Phillips and H. Weekes, R.A., respectively.</p> + +<p><a name="central" id="central"></a><strong>The Central Tower.</strong>—In the nave the whole of Lanfranc’s work was +destroyed, but in the central tower, which we will next examine, the +original supporting piers were left standing, though they were covered +over by Prior Chillenden with work more in keeping with the style in which +he had renewed the nave. “Of the tower piers,” says Willis, “the western +are probably mere casings of the original, and the eastern certainly +appendages to the original.... Of course I have no evidence to show how +much of Lanfranc’s piers was allowed to remain<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 56]</span> in the heart of the work. +The interior faces of the tower walls appear to have been brought forward +by a lining so as to increase their thickness and the strength of the +piers, with a view to the erection of a lofty tower, which however was not +carried above the roof until another century had nearly elapsed.” It was +Prior Goldstone the second who, about 1500, carried upward the central +tower, which Chillenden seems to have left level with the roof of the +cathedral. “With the countenance and help of Cardinal John Morton and +Prior William Sellyng he magnificently completed that lofty tower +commonly called Angyll Stepyll in the middle of the church. The vaulting +of the tower is his work—<em>testudine pulcherrimâ concameratam +consummavit</em>—and he also added the buttressing arches—with great care +and industry he annexed to the columns which support the same tower two +arches or vaults of stonework, curiously carved, and four smaller ones, to +assist in sustaining the said tower.” The addition of these buttressing +arches, not altogether happy in its artistic effect, was probably rendered +necessary by some signs of weakness shown by the piers of the tower, for +the north-west pier, which was not so substantially reinforced as the +others, now shows a considerable bend in an eastward direction. The “two +arches or vaults of stonework” were inserted under the western and +southern tower arches. “The eastern arch having stronger piers did not +require this precaution, and the northern, which opened upon the +‘Martyrium,’ seems to have been left free, out of reverence to the altar +of the martyrdom, and accordingly to have suffered the dislocation just +mentioned.” The four smaller arches connected the two western tower-piers +with the nearest nave-pier and the wall of the transept. The buttressing +arches are strongly built, and are adorned with curious bands of +reticulated work. The central western arch occupies the place of the +rood-loft, and it is probable that until the Reformation the great rood +was placed over it. The rebus of Prior Thomas Goldstone—a shield with +three gold stones—is carved upon these arches.</p> + +<p><a name="screen" id="screen"></a><strong>The Western Screen</strong>, which separates the nave from the choir, is now more +commonly known as the organ-screen: it is a highly elaborate and beautiful +piece of work, and the carvings which decorate it are well worthy of +examination. In the lower niches there are six crowned figures: one +holding a<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 57]</span> church is believed to be Ethelbert, while it has been assumed +that the figure on the extreme right represents Richard II.: probably +Henry IV., who, as has been already mentioned, “helped to build a good +part of the body of the Church” has a place of honour here, but no +certainty on this matter is possible. The thirteen mitred niches which +encircle the arch once contained figures of Christ and the twelve +Apostles, but these were destroyed by the Puritans. The exact date of this +outward screen is uncertain, but it was set up at some time during the +fifteenth century. “A little examination,” says Willis, “of its central +archway will detect the junction of this new work with the stone enclosure +of the choir.” In fact, this archway is considerably higher than that of +De Estria which still remains behind it. The apex of this arch reaches but +a little above the capitals of the new arch, and the flat space, or +tympanum, thus left between the two, is filled with Perpendicular tracery.</p> + +<p><a name="choir1" id="choir1"></a><strong>The Choir.</strong>—“In the year of grace one thousand one hundred and +seventy-four, by the just but occult judgment of God, the Church of Christ +at Canterbury was consumed by fire, in the forty-fourth year from its +dedication, that glorious choir, to wit, which had been so magnificently +completed by the care and industry of Prior Conrad” (“Gervase,” translated +by Willis). The work of rebuilding was immediately begun by William, the +architect of Sens. At the beginning of the fifth year of his work, he was, +by a fall from the height of the capitals of the upper vault, “rendered +helpless alike to himself and for the work, but no other person than +himself was in the least injured. Against the master only was the +vengeance of God or spite of the devil directed.” He was succeeded in his +charge by one “William by name, English by nation, small in body, but in +workmanship of many kinds acute and honest.” Now in the sixth year from +the fire, we read that the monks were “seized with a violent longing to +prepare the choir, so that they might enter it at the coming Easter. And +the master, perceiving their desires, set himself manfully to work, to +satisfy the wishes of the convent. He constructed, with all diligence, the +wall which encloses the choir and presbytery. He carefully prepared a +resting-place for St. Dunstan and St. Elfege. The choir thus hardly +completed even with the greatest labour and diligence, the monks were +resolved to enter on Easter Eve with<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 58]</span> the ‘new fire,’” that is, the +paschal candle which was lit on Easter Eve and burnt until Ascension Day. +The kindling of this light was carried out in a very ceremonious manner as +enjoined in Lanfranc’s statutes. A fire was made in the cloister and duly +consecrated, and the monks, having lit a taper at this fire carried it on +the end of a staff in solemn procession, singing psalms and hymns and +burning incense, and lit the paschal candle in the choir with it.</p> + +<p>Thus was the new choir completed, in the sixth year after the burning of +Conrad’s. This part of the cathedral will be peculiarly interesting to the +architectural student, owing to the curious mixture of styles, which +enables him to compare the Norman and Early English characteristics side +by side. A striking feature in the aspect of the building, as seen from +the choir, is the remarkable inward bend with which the walls turn towards +one another at the end of the cathedral. The choir itself is peculiar in +the matter of length (180 feet—the longest in any English church), and +the lowness of the vaulting. The pillars, with their pier-arches and the +clerestory wall above are said by Willis to be without doubt the work of +William of Sens: but the whole question as to where the French William +left off and his English namesake began is extremely uncertain, as there +can be no doubt that William of Sens had fully planned out the work which +he was destined never to complete, and it is more than probable that his +successor worked largely upon his plans. We are on safer ground when we +assert that the new choir was altogether different from the building which +it replaced. The style was much more ornate and considerably lighter: the +characteristics of the work of the Williams are rich mouldings, varied and +elaborately carved capitals on the pillars, and the introduction of +gracefully slender shafts of Purbeck marble. Gervase, in pointing out the +differences between the works before and after the fire, mentions that +“the old capitals were plain, the new ones most artistically sculptured. +The old arches and everything else either plain or sculptured with an axe +and not with a chisel, but in the new work first rate sculpture abounded +everywhere. In the old work no marble shafts, in the new innumerable ones. +Plain vaults instead of ribbed behind the choir.” “Sculptured with an +axe,” reads rather curiously, but Professor Willis points out that “the +axe is not quite so rude a weapon in the hands of a mason as it might<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 61]</span> +appear at first sight. The French masons use it to the present day with +great dexterity in carving.” The mouldings used by Ernulf were extremely +simple, and were decorated with a “peculiar and shallow class of notched +ornament,” of which many examples exist in other buildings of the period; +while the mouldings of William of Sens “exhibit much variety, but are most +remarkable for the profusion of billet-work, zigzag and dogtooth, that are +lavished upon them.” The first two methods of ornamentation are Norman, +the last an Early English characteristic. This mixture is not confined to +the details of decoration but may be observed also in the indiscriminate +employment of round and pointed arches. This feature, as Willis remarks, +“may have arisen either from the indifference of the artist as to the +mixture of forms or else from deliberate contrivance, for as he was +compelled, from the nature of his work, to retain round-headed arcades, +windows, and arches, in the side-aisles, and yet was accustomed to and +desirous of employing pointed arches in his new building, he might +discreetly mix some round-headed arches with them, in order to make the +contrast less offensive by causing the mixture of forms to pervade the +whole composition, as if an intentional principle.”</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img22" id="img22"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 596px;"> +<a href="images/img22.jpg"> +<img src="images/img22-th.jpg" width="596" height="400" alt="Choir Looking East" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">the choir, looking east (from a photograph by carl norman +and co.).</span> +</div> + +<p>Whatever the motive, this daring mixture renders the study of the +architectural features of our cathedral peculiarly interesting. In the +triforium we find a semicircular outer arch circumscribing two inner +pointed ones. The clerestory arch is pointed, while some of the transverse +ribs of the great vault are pointed and some round.</p> + +<p>The inward bend of the walls at the end of the choir was necessitated by +the fact that the towers of St. Anselm and St. Andrew had survived the +great fire of 1174. Naturally the pious builders did not wish to pull down +these relics of the former church, so that a certain amount of contraction +had to be effected in order that these towers should form part of the new +plan. This arrangement also fitted in with the determination to build a +chapel of the martyred St. Thomas at the end of the church, on the site of +the former Trinity Chapel. For the Trinity Chapel had been much narrower +than the new choir, but this contraction enabled the rebuilders to +preserve its dimensions.</p> + +<p><a name="altar" id="altar"></a><strong>The Altar</strong>, when the choir was at first completed by William, stood +entirely alone, and without a reredos; behind it the <span class='pagenum'>[Pg 62]</span>archbishop’s chair +was originally placed, but this was afterwards transferred to the corona. +The remarkable height at which the altar was set up is due to the fact +that it is placed over the new crypt, which is a good deal higher than the +older, or western crypt. Before the Reformation the high altar was richly +embellished with all kinds of precious and sacred ornaments and vessels: +while beneath it, in a vault, were stored a priceless collection of gold +and silver vessels: such of these as escaped the rapacity of Henry VIII. +were destroyed by the bigotry of the Puritan zealots: the latter made +havoc of the reredos which had been erected behind the high altar, +probably during the fourteenth century, and also a “most idolatrous costly +glory cloth,” the gift of Archbishop Laud. The reredos was replaced by a +Corinthian screen, which was of elaborate design, but must have been +strangely out of keeping with its surroundings; it was removed about 1870, +to make way for the present reredos which was designed in the style of the +screen work in the Lady Chapel in the crypt, but which cannot be commended +as an object of beauty. The altar coverings which are now in use were +presented to the cathedral by Queen Mary, the wife of William III., when +she visited Canterbury. A chalice, given by the Earl of Arundel in 1636, +is among the communion-plate. In his account of the building of the new +choir, Gervase tells us that “the Master carefully prepared a +resting-place for St. Dunstan and St. Elfege—the co-exiles of the monks.” +When the choir was ready, “Prior Alan, taking with him nine of the +brethren of the Church in whom he could trust, went by night to the tombs +of the saints, so that he might not be incommoded by a crowd, and having +locked the doors of the church, he commanded the stone-work that inclosed +them to be taken down. The monks and the servants of the Church, in +obedience to the Prior’s commands, took the structure to pieces, opened +the stone coffins of the saints, and bore their relics to the +<em>vestiarium</em>. Then, having removed the cloths in which they had been +wrapped, and which were half-consumed from age and rottenness, they +covered them with other and more handsome palls, and bound them with linen +bands. They bore the saints, thus prepared, to their altars, and deposited +them in wooden chests, covered within and without with lead: which chests, +thus lead-covered, and strongly bound with iron, were inclosed in +stone-work that was consolidated with melted<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 63]</span> lead.” This translation +was thus carried out by Prior Alan on the night before the formal re-entry +into the choir: the rest of the monks, who had not assisted at the +ceremony, were highly incensed by the prior’s action, for they had +intended that the translation of the fathers should have been performed +with great and devout solemnity. They even went so far as to cite the +prior and the trusty monks who had assisted him before the Archbishop, and +it was only by the intervention of the latter, and other men of authority, +and “after due apology and repentance,” that harmony was restored in the +convent.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img23" id="img23"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 299px;"> +<a href="images/img23.jpg"> +<img src="images/img23-th.jpg" width="299" height="400" alt="Choir before Restoration" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">the choir before restoration.</span> +</div> + +<p>The bones of St. Dunstan were long a cause of contention between the +churches of Canterbury and Glastonbury. The monks of Glastonbury +considered that they had a prior claim on the relics of the sainted +archbishop, and stoutly contended that his body had been conveyed to their +own sanctuary after the sack of Canterbury by the Danes; and they used to +exhibit a coffin as containing Dunstan’s remains. But early in the +fourteenth century they went so far as to set up a gorgeous shrine in +which they placed, with much pomp and circumstance, the supposed relics. +Archbishop Warham, who then ruled at Canterbury, accordingly replied by +causing the shrine in our cathedral to be opened, and was able to declare +triumphantly that he had found therein the remains of a human body, in the +costume of an archbishop, with a plate of lead on his breast, inscribed +with the words “<span class="smcap">Sanctus Dunstanus</span>.” In the course of the subsequent +correspondence which passed between the two monasteries, the Abbot of +Glastonbury, after trying to argue that perhaps part only of the saint’s +relics had been conveyed to his church, at last frankly confesses “the +people had believed in the genuineness of their saint for so long, that he +is afraid to tell them the truth.” This shrine of St. Dunstan stood on the +south of the high altar, and was erected after the manner of a tomb: +though the shrine itself perished at the time of the Reformation, there +still remains, on the south wall of the choir, between the monuments of +Archbishops Stratford and Sudbury, some very fine open diaper-work, in +what is known as the Decorated style, which once formed part of the +ornamentation of St. Dunstan’s altar. The shrine of St. Elfege, or +Alphege, who was archbishop at the time of the sacking of Canterbury by +the Danes, and was murdered by them, has been altogether destroyed.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'>[Pg 64]</span> +<a name="choir2" id="choir2"></a><strong>The Choir Screen</strong>, a solid structure of stone we know to be the work of +Prior de Estria, <em>i.e.</em>, of Eastry in Kent, who was elected in 1285, and +died in 1331. According to the Obituary record, he “fairly decorated the +choir of the church with most beautiful stone-work cunningly carved.” In +his Register there is an entry which evidently refers to the same work: +“Anno 1304-5. Reparation of the whole choir with three new doors and a new +screen (<em>pulpito</em>).” The three doors referred to are the north and south +entrances and the western one. It has already been pointed out that the +present western screen is a later addition. Professor Willis, whose great +work on the Architectural History of Canterbury Cathedral should be +studied by all who wish to examine the details of the building more +closely than is allowed by the scope of this work, describes De Estria’s +screen as follows: “The lateral portions of this wall of enclosure are in +excellent order. In the western part of the choir, namely, between the +eastern transepts and the organ-screen, this wall is built so that its +inner face nearly ranges with the inner faces of the pillars; but eastward +of the transepts it is built between the pillars. The north doorway +remains perfect. The present south doorway, which is in a much later +style, is manifestly a subsequent insertion. This enclosure consists of a +solid wall, seven feet nine inches in height from the pavement of the +side-aisles. It has a stone-bench towards the side-aisles, and above that +a base, of the age of William of Sens; so that it is clear that the work +of De Estria belongs to the upper part only of the enclosure, which +consists of delicate and elaborately worked tracery, surmounted by an +embattled crest.... The entire work is particularly valuable on account of +its well-established date, combined with its great beauty and +singularity.”</p> + +<p>A portion of the choir-pavement, lying between the two transepts, is +interesting as being undoubtedly part of the original flooring of Conrad’s +choir, and probably the only fragment of it that was left undisturbed +after the great fire which destroyed “that glorious choir which had been +so magnificently completed by the care and industry of Prior Conrad.” This +part of the pavement consists of large slabs of a peculiar “stone, or +veined marble of a delicate brown colour. When parts of this are taken up +for repair or alteration, it is usual to find lead which has run between +the joints of the slabs and spread on each side below, and which is with +great reason <span class='pagenum'>[Pg 65]</span>supposed to be the effect of the fire of 1174, which melted +the lead of the roof, and caused it to run down between the paving stones +in this manner.” It is said that when the choir was filled with pews in +1706, and it was necessary to remove part of the pavement, the men engaged +on the work picked up enough of this lead to make two large gluepots.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img24" id="img24"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 861px;"> +<a href="images/img24.png"> +<img src="images/img24_th.png" width="861" height="350" alt="Miserere in the Choir" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">a miserere in the choir.</span> +</div> + +<p>The original wooden <a name="choir3" id="choir3"></a><strong>stalls of the choir</strong> were described by the writer of a +book published in 1640. He relates that there were two rows on each side, +an upper and a lower, and that above the stalls on the south side stood +the archbishop’s wooden chair, “sometime richly guilt, and otherwise +richly set forth, but now nothing specious through age and late neglect.” +Perhaps the battered and shabby condition of this part of the cathedral +furniture accounts for its having survived the Puritan period; it is at +least certain that it remained untouched until 1704, when the refurnishing +of the choir was begun by Archbishop Tenison; he himself presented a +wainscoted throne with lofty Corinthian canopy adorned with carving by +Gibbons, while the altar, the pulpit, and the stalls for the dean and +vice-dean were provided with rich fittings by Queen Mary II. The tracery +of the screen was hidden by a lining of wainscoting, which was put before +it. This arrangement lasted little more than a century. In the time of +Archbishop Howley, who held office from 1828 to 1848, the wainscoting +which concealed the screen was taken away, and Archbishop Tenison’s throne +has made way for a lofty canopy of tabernacle work. Some carved work, +which has been ascribed to Gibbons, still remains before the eastern front +of the screen, between the choir and the nave.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'>[Pg 66]</span> +The position of the organ has been frequently shifted. In Conrad’s choir +it was placed upon the vault of the south transept; afterwards it was set +up upon a large corbel of stone, over the arch of St. Michael in the same +transept. This corbel has now been removed; subsequently it was placed +between two pillars on the north side of the choir, and, later on, it was +again transferred to a position over the west door of the choir, the usual +place for the organ in cathedral churches; finally it has been +“ingeniously deposited out of sight in the triforium of the south aisle of +the choir; a low pedestal with its keys stands in the choir itself, so as +to place the organist close to the singers, as he ought to be, and the +communication between the keys and the organ is effected by trackers +passing under the pavement of the side aisles, and conducted up to the +triforium, through a trunk let into the south wall.” This arrangement not +only secures the retirement from view of the organ, which, with its +tedious rows of straight and unsightly pipes, is generally more or less an +eyesore in cathedrals, but is said to have caused a great improvement in +the effect of its music. The present organ, which was built by Samuel +Green, is believed to have been used at the Handel Festival in Westminster +Abbey in 1784. It was enlarged by Hill in 1842, and entirely reconstructed +in 1886. In this connection we may mention that Archbishop Theodore first +introduced the ecclesiastical chant in Canterbury Cathedral.</p> + +<p>The tombs in the choir are all occupied by famous archbishops and +cardinals. On the south side, hard by the site of the shrine of St. +Dunstan, is the tomb of Simon of Sudbury, who was archbishop from 1375 to +1381. He built the west gate of the city, and a great part of the town +walls; in consideration of these benefits the mayor and aldermen used at +one time to make an annual procession to his resting-place and offer +prayers for his soul. Outside Canterbury his acts were not regarded with +so much gratitude, for he was the inventor, or reviver, of the poll tax, +and was in consequence beheaded on Tower Hill by Wat Tyler and his +followers. Stanley relates that “not many years ago, when this tomb was +accidentally opened, the body was seen within, wrapped in cere-cloth, a +leaden ball occupying the vacant place of the head.” Sudbury is also +famous as having spoken against the “superstitious” pilgrimages to St. +Thomas’ shrine, and his violent death was<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 67]</span> accordingly attributed to the +avenging power of the incensed saint. Westward of his monument stands that +of Archbishop Stratford (1333-1348), who was Grand Justiciary to Edward +III. during his absence in Flanders, and won fame by his struggle with the +king. Between this tomb and the archbishop’s throne lies Cardinal Kemp +(1452-1454), who was present at Agincourt in the camp of Henry V.; his +tomb is surmounted by a remarkable wooden canopy. Opposite, on the north +side, is the very interesting monument of Archbishop Henry Chichele +(1414-1443). Shakespeare tells us that he was the instigator of Henry V.’s +war with France, and it is supposed that out of remorse for this act he +built, during his lifetime, the curious tomb which now conceals his bones; +it is kept in repair by All Souls’ College, which was founded by the +penitent archbishop that its fellows might pray for the souls of all who +had perished during the war; the effigy, in full canonicals, with its head +supported by angels, and with two monks holding open books, kneeling at +its feet, lies on the upper slab; and underneath is a ghastly figure in a +winding-sheet, supposed to represent the archbishop after death; the +diminutive figures which originally filled the niches were destroyed by +the Puritans, but have been to some extent replaced. The gaudy colours of +the tomb enable one to form some idea of the appearance of the churches in +the Middle Ages, when they were bedizened with painted images, hangings, +and frescoes: to judge from this specimen the effect must have been +distinctly tawdry. Further east we find the monument of Archbishop Howley; +he was chiefly remarkable as having crowned Queen Victoria and married her +to the Prince Consort, and his monument is noticeable as being the first +erected to an archbishop, in the cathedral, since the Reformation; he +himself lies at Addington. Beyond is a fine tomb well worthy of +examination, crowned by an elaborate canopy which shows traces of rough +usage at the hands of the restoring enthusiasts, who surrounded the choir +with classical wainscoting after the Restoration. It is the monument of +Archbishop Bourchier, a staunch supporter of the House of York; he was +primate for thirty-two years, from 1454 to 1486, and crowned Edward IV., +Richard III., and Henry VII. The “Bourchier knot” is among the decorations +which enrich the canopy of his tomb.</p> + +<p><a name="set" id="set"></a><strong>The South-East Transept.</strong>—According to the present<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 68]</span> custom of the +Canterbury vergers, the visitor is led from the choir to the south-east +transept. “In the choir of Ernulf,” says Willis, “the transepts were cut +off from the body by the continuity of the pier-arches and the wall above, +and each transept was therefore a separate room with a flat ceiling.... +But in the new design of William the transepts were opened to the central +portion, and the triforium and clerestory of the choir were turned at +right angles to their courses, and thus formed the side walls of the +transepts.... The entire interior of the eastern transept has been most +skilfully converted from Ernulfian architecture to Willelmian (if I may be +allowed the phrase for the nonce). It was necessary that the triforium and +clerestory of the new design should be carried along the walls of these +transepts, which were before the fire probably ornamented by a +continuation of those of Ernulf. But the respective level of these +essential members were so different in the old and new works that the only +parts of them that could be retained were the windows of the old +clerestory, which falls just above the new triforium tablet, and +accordingly these old windows may still be seen in the triforia of the +transepts, surmounted by the new pointed clerestory windows. But the whole +of the arcade work and mouldings in the interior of these transepts +belongs to William of Sens, with the sole exception of the lower windows. +Even the arches which open from the east wall of these transepts to the +apses have been changed for pointed arches, the piers of which have a +singularly elegant base.”</p> + +<p>In the two apses of this transept altars to St. Gregory and St. John once +stood, and here were shrines of four Saxon primates. There is a window in +the south wall erected to the memory of Dean Alford; below it is the spot +on which the tomb of Archbishop Winchelsea (1294-1313) was placed. He was +famous for his contest with Edward I. concerning clerical subsidies, and +for having secured from the king the confirmation of the charter. He was +more practically endeared to the people by the generosity of his +almsgiving—it is said that he distributed two thousand loaves among the +poor every Sunday and Thursday when corn was dear, and three thousand when +it was cheap. His tomb was heaped with offerings like the shrine of a +saint, but the Pope refused to confirm the popular enthusiasm by +canonizing the archbishop; the fact, however, that it had been so +reverenced was enough to qualify it for destruction<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 69]</span> in the days of Henry +VIII. This transept is used at present as a chapel for the King’s School, +a direct continuation of the monastery school, at which Archbishops +Winchelsea and Kemp were both educated. It contains the Corinthian throne +which was set up in the choir early in the last century.</p> + +<p><a name="swc" id="swc"></a><strong>The South-West Choir Aisle.</strong>—At the corner of this aisle we may notice the +arcade which shows the combination of the Norman rounded arch and double +zigzag ornamentation with the pointed arch and dogtooth tracery of +William. Here also are two tombs, which have given rise to a good deal of +speculation. The more easterly one used to be regarded as the monument of +Hubert Walter, who was chancellor to Richard Cœur de Lion and followed +him and Archbishop Baldwin to Palestine, and, on the death of the latter, +was made primate in the camp at Acre: it is thought more probable, +however, in the light of recent research, that he is buried in the Trinity +Chapel. The other tomb used to be the resting place of Archbishop +Reynolds, the favourite of Edward II., but it also affords food for +discussion, as there is no trace of the “pall”—a Y-shaped strip of lamb’s +wool marked with crosses, a special mark of metropolitan dignity which was +sent to each primate by the Pope—on the vestments of the effigy. Hence +conjecture doubts whether these tombs are tenanted by archbishops at all, +and inclines to the theory that they contain the bones of two of the +Priors, perhaps of d’Estria. From this point we can notice the ingenious +apparatus connected with the organ.</p> + +<p><a name="anselm" id="anselm"></a><strong>St. Anselm’s Tower and Chapel.</strong>—Proceeding eastward, towards the Trinity +Chapel, we pause to examine the chapel or tower of St. Anselm, which +corresponds to that of St. Andrew on the north side of the cathedral. Both +these chapels probably at one time were much more lofty, as they are +described as “lofty towers” by Gervase; it was in order to bring them into +the church, when it was reconstructed after the fire, that the eastward +contraction, which presents such a curious effect as seen from the choir, +was found necessary. They are now, as Willis points out, “only of the same +height as the clerestory of the Norman Church, to which they formed +appendages, and consequently they rose above the side-aisles of that +church as much as the clerestory did. The external faces of the inward +walls of these towers are now inclosed under the<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 70]</span> roof of William’s +triforium, and it may be seen that they were once exposed to the weather.” +The arches in St. Anselm’s tower were originally set up by Ernulf, but +there is reason to believe that they were rebuilt after the great +conflagration. “The arch of communication,” says Willis, “is a round arch, +at first sight plainly of the Ernulfian period, having plaited-work +capitals and mouldings with shallow hollows. A similar arch opens on the +eastern side of the tower into its apse. But a close examination will shew +that both these arches have undergone alteration.... I am inclined to +believe that both these arches were reset and reduced in space after the +fire, probably to increase their strength and that of their piers, on +account of the loss of abutment, when the circular wall of the choir-apse +was removed.” The alterations that were made in these arches were probably +not important, and did not extend beyond the re-modelling of the mouldings +on the side of the arch towards the choir-aisle; for we may notice that +above both the arches we can still trace the notched decoration which is +peculiar to Ernulf’s work. This chapel was originally dedicated to St. +Peter and St. Paul, and a very interesting relic of this saintly patronage +has lately been discovered. Apparently, in order to strengthen the +building, two of the three windows in the chapel were blocked up, and a +buttress was built across a chord of the apse, in the early part of the +thirteenth century. In the course of the restoration of the tower which +was recently carried out, this buttress was taken away, and its removal +laid bare a fresco painting, representing St. Paul and the viper at +Melita. This piece of decoration, as need hardly be said, must have been +put in before the construction of the buttress which has concealed and +preserved it for nearly seven centuries; it is conjectured, with a good +deal of reason, that a similar presentment of +<ins class="translit" title="Transcriber’s Note: St. Peter?">St. Paul</ins> +was painted at the +same time on the opposite wall, but as it had no buttress to protect it, +it has been altogether effaced. A copy of the fresco of St. Paul has been +placed in the cathedral library. The altar of SS. Peter and Paul stood at +the east end, and behind it was the tomb of the celebrated Archbishop +Anselm, by whose name the chapel is now commonly called. A very +interesting feature of this tower is a large and elaborate five-light +window of the Decorated period. It replaced the original south window of +the chapel, and was inserted by Prior d’Estria in 1336; it is remarkable +as being<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 71]</span> one of the few instances of Decorated architecture in the +cathedral, and also because of the detailed account that has been +preserved of its erection and cost. The passage in the archives runs as +follows:—“Memorandum, that in the year 1336, there was made a new window +in Christ Church, Canterbury, that is to say, in the chapel of the +Apostles St. Peter and St. Paul, upon which there were expended the +following sums:</p> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> <td align='left'></td> <td class="tdp"></td> <td align='center'><em>£</em></td> <td align='center'><em>s.</em></td> <td align='center'><em>d.</em></td> </tr> + +<tr> <td align='left'>“Imprimis, for the workmanship, or labour of the</td> </tr> +<tr> <td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">masons</span></td> <td class="tdp"></td> <td align='right'>21</td> <td align='right'>17</td> <td align='right'>9</td> </tr> + +<tr> <td align='left'>Item, for the breaking down of the wall, where the</td> </tr> +<tr> <td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">window now is</span></td> <td class="tdp"></td> <td align='right'>0</td> <td align='right'>16</td> <td align='right'>9</td> </tr> + +<tr> <td align='left'>—— for lime and gravel</td> <td class="tdp"></td> <td align='right'>1</td> <td align='right'>0</td> <td align='right'>0</td> </tr> + +<tr> <td align='left'>—— for 20 cwt. of iron bought for said window</td> <td class="tdp"></td> <td align='right'>4</td> <td align='right'>4</td> <td align='right'>0</td> </tr> + +<tr> <td align='left'>—— for the labour of the smiths</td> <td class="tdp"></td> <td align='right'>3</td> <td align='right'>5</td> <td align='right'>4</td> </tr> + +<tr> <td align='left'>—— for Caen stone bought for same</td> <td class="tdp"></td> <td align='right'>5</td> <td align='right'>0</td> <td align='right'>0</td> </tr> + +<tr> <td align='left'>—— for glass and the labour of the glaziers</td> <td class="tdp"></td> <td align='right'>6</td> <td align='right'>13</td> <td align='right'>4</td> </tr> + +<tr> <td align='left'></td> <td class="tdp"></td> <td align='center'>—</td> <td align='center'>—</td> <td align='center'>—</td> </tr> + +<tr><td align='right'>Total</td> <td class="tdp"></td> <td align='right'>42</td> <td align='right'>17</td> <td align='right'>2.”</td> </tr> +</table></div> + +<p>On the heads of the lights of this window were pendent bosses, like those +of the door in the choir-screen, which, as has been said, was also the +work of Prior de Estria. These bosses and the stones from which they were +suspended, have altogether disappeared, otherwise the internal tracery of +the window is in good preservation. “The outside, however, is in a very +bad condition for the purpose of the antiquarian; for, apparently on +account of the decayed state of its surface, the tracery has undergone the +process of splitting, namely, the whole of the outer part has been faced +down to the glass, and fresh worked in Portland stone; Portland stone +mullions, or <em>monials</em> as they are more properly called, have also been +supplied. And as this repair was executed at a period when this class of +architecture was ill understood, the mouldings were very badly wrought, +which, with the unfortunate colour and surface of the Portland stone, has +given the window a most ungenuine air. However, the interior is as good as +ever it was, and it is on account of its date, as well as for its beauty, +a most valuable example” (Willis).</p> + +<p>The insertion of the window in question probably had the effect of +weakening the walls of the chapel; at any rate they<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 72]</span> show signs of a +tendency to settle. Beneath it is the tomb of Archbishop Bradwardine, a +great scholar and divine, whose primacy only lasted three months. Opposite +to him lies Simon de Mepeham—archbishop from 1328 to 1333—whose tomb +forms the screen of the chapel. It is a black marble monument well worthy +of examination, with a double arcade and a richly decorated canopy; the +ornamentation has been greatly damaged, but the shattered remains show +traces of beautiful work. Mepeham’s short primacy was brought to an +untimely end by the contumacy of Grandisson, Bishop of Exeter, who refused +to allow him to enter Exeter Cathedral, actually guarding the west door +with an armed force. The pope sided with the recalcitrant bishop, and +Mepeham died, according to Fuller, of a broken heart in consequence of +this humiliation.</p> + +<p><a name="wc" id="wc"></a><strong>The Watching Chamber.</strong>—Above the Chapel of St. Anselm is a small room, +which is reached by a staircase from the north-west corner. A window in it +commands a view into the cathedral, and from this circumstance it has been +inferred that a watcher was stationed here at night to protect the +priceless treasures of St. Thomas’s shrine from pillage by marauders. Some +doubt has been thrown on this assumption, since the site of the shrine is +not fully seen from the window, but the room is still generally known as +the Watching Chamber. Probably the shrine was much more efficiently +guarded than by the presence of a solitary monk in a chamber, from which +even if he could see thieves he certainly could not arrest them; for we +know that “on the occasion of fires the shrine was additionally guarded by +a troop of fierce ban-dogs” (Stanley). It is also said that King John of +France was imprisoned in this chamber during his stay at Canterbury, but +this is most unlikely, seeing that he was treated by the Black Prince more +as a sovereign than as a captive.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img25" id="img25"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 591px;"> +<a href="images/img25.png"> +<img src="images/img25_th.png" width="591" height="400" alt="Mosaics" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">some mosaics from the floor of trinity chapel.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="trinity1" id="trinity1"></a><strong>Trinity Chapel.</strong>—Passing further east, we ascend the flight of steps, +deeply worn by innumerable pilgrims, and enter the precincts of the +Trinity Chapel. All this part of the cathedral, from the choir-screen to +the corona, was rebuilt from the ground, specially with a view to its +receiving the shrine of St. Thomas. It is still, however, called by the +name of the Trinity Chapel, which previously occupied this site, and was +burnt down by the fire which destroyed Conrad’s choir. In this chapel +Thomas à Becket celebrated his first mass after<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 73]</span> his installation as +archbishop, and his remains were laid for some time in the crypt below it. +This portion of the building was all carried out under the direction of +English William. Gervase relates that when William of Sens, after his +accident, “perceiving that he derived no benefit from the physicians, +returned to his home in France,” his successor, English William “laid the +foundation for the enlargement of the church at the eastern part, because +a chapel of St. Thomas was to be built there; for this was the place +assigned to him; namely the Chapel of the Holy Trinity, where he +celebrated his first mass—where he was wont to prostrate himself with +tears and prayers, under whose crypt for so many years he was buried, +where God for his merits had performed so many miracles, where poor and +rich, kings and princes, had worshipped him, and whence the sound of his +praises had gone out into all lands.” As to the extent to which the second +William was guided by the plans of his predecessor we have no means of +judging accurately. Certainly the general outline of this part of the +building must have been arranged by William of Sens, for the contraction +of the choir, in order to preserve the width of the ancient Trinity Chapel +had been carried out up to the clerestory before his retirement. Willis +deals with the subject at some length:<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 74]</span> “Whether,” he says, “we are to +attribute to the French artist the lofty elevation of the pavement of the +new chapel, by which also so handsome a crypt is obtained below, must +remain doubtful. The bases of his columns, as well as those of the shafts +against the wall are hidden and smothered by the platform at the top of +these steps and by the side steps that lead to Becket’s chapel. This looks +like an evidence of a change of plan, and induces me to believe that the +lofty crypt below may be considered as the unfettered composition of the +English architect.... The Trinity Chapel of the Englishman is under the +influence of the French work of which it is a continuation, and +accordingly the same mouldings are employed throughout, and the triforium +and clerestory are continued at the same level; but the greater level of +the pavement wholly alters the proportion of the piers to their arches, +and gives a new and original, and at the same time a very elegant +character to this part of the church compared with the work of the +Frenchman, of which, at first sight, it seems to be a mere continuation. +The triforium also of this Trinity Chapel differs from that of the choir, +in that its four pointed arches instead of being, like them, included +under two circular ones, are set in the form of an arcade of four arches, +of two orders of mouldings each. The mouldings are the same as in the +choir, but the effect of their arrangement is richer. Also in the +clerestory two windows are placed over each pier-arch, instead of the +single window of the choir. The mixture of the two forms of arches is +still carried on, for although the semicircular arch is banished from the +triforium, it is adopted for the pier-arches.</p> + +<p>“However, in the side-aisles of the Trinity chapel, and in the corona, our +English William appears to have freed himself almost as completely from +the shackles of imitation, as was possible. In the side-aisles the +mouldings of the ribs still remain the same, but their management in +connection with the side walls, and the combination of their slender +shafts with those of the twin lancet windows, here for the first time +introduced into the building, is very happy. Slender shafts of marble are +employed in profusion by William of Sens, and Gervase expressly includes +them in his list of characteristic novelties. But here we find them either +detached from the piers, or combined with them in such a manner as to +give<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 75]</span> a much greater lightness and elegance of effect than in the work of +the previous architect. This lightness of style is carried still farther +in the corona, where the slender shafts are carried round the walls, and +made principal supports to the pier-arches, over which is placed a light +triforium and a clerestory; and it must be remarked that all the arches in +this part of the building are of a single order of mouldings, instead of +two orders as in the pier-arches and triforium of the choir.”</p> + +<p>So much for the architectural details of the Trinity Chapel. To the +ordinary visitor its interest lies rather in the fact that it contained +Becket’s shrine, and that we here see the curious old windows portraying +the sainted Archbishop’s miracles, and what is, perhaps, most important of +all to many, <a name="tomb" id="tomb"></a><strong>the tomb of Edward the Black Prince</strong>. This monument is the +first feature that we notice as we enter by the south-west gate of the +chapel; it stands between the two first pillars, and by the side of the +site of the shrine. By the Prince’s will he had left directions that he +should be buried in the crypt, where he had already founded a chantry, at +the time of his marriage with the “Fair Maid of Kent” in 1363. But for +some unknown reason, probably in order that the dead hero’s bones might be +placed in the most sacred spot possible—he was laid to rest by the side +of the martyr, then in the zenith of his sanctity. One of the most +romantic figures in English history is that of Edward the Black Prince, +who “fought the French” as no Briton, except perhaps Nelson, has fought +them since; he was sixteen years old when he commanded the English army in +person at the battle of Cressy, and was wounded in the thickest of that +most sanguinary fray: ten years later, facing an army of 60,000 men with a +mere 8,000 behind him, he inflicted a still more severe defeat on the +French at Poitiers, and captured their king, whom he took with him to +Canterbury on his triumphant return to London. In all our list of national +heroes there is not one who upheld the prowess of the English arms more +gallantly than this mighty warrior who was cut off while still in the +flower of his years, leaving England to the miseries of sedition and civil +war. His tomb is one of the most impressive of such monuments. The gilding +and bright colours have almost entirely disappeared, but the striking +effect of the effigy is probably only enhanced by the solemn sombreness of +its <span class='pagenum'>[Pg 76]</span>present appearance. It is a figure clad in full armour, spurred and +helmeted, as the Prince had ordained by his will. The head rests on the +helmet and the hands are joined in the attitude of prayer. The face, which +is undoubtedly a portrait, is stern and masterful. “There you can see his +fine face with the Plantagenet features, the flat cheeks, and the +well-chiselled nose, to be traced, perhaps, in the effigy of his father in +Westminster Abbey, and his grandfather in Gloucester Cathedral.” The tomb +itself is worthy to support the figure and guard the ashes of the Black +Prince. Carved on its side clearly, that all might read it, is the +inscription which he had himself chosen; it is in Norman French, which was +still the language spoken by the English Court, and in the same spirit +which moved the designer of Archbishop Chichele’s tomb to portray the +living man and the mouldering skeleton, this epitaph contrasts the glories +of the Prince’s life—his wealth, beauty, and power—with the decay and +corruption of the grave. It is distinctly pagan in thought, and reminds +one strongly of the laments of the dead Homeric heroes as they wail for +the joys of life and strength and lordship. Stanley states that it is +“borrowed, with a few variations, from the anonymous French translation of +the ‘Clericalis Disciplina’ of Petrus Alphonsus composed between the years +1106 and 1110.” But it is strangely un-Christian in sentiment as a few +lines will show—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">“Tiel come tu es, je autiel fu, tu seras tiel come je su,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">De la mort ne pensay je mie, tant come j’avoy la vie.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">En terre avoy grand richesse, dont je y fys grand noblesse,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Terre, mesons, et grand tresor, draps, chivalx, argent et or.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Mesore su je povres et cheitifs, perfond en la terre gys,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Ma grand beaute est tout alee, ma char est tout gastee<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Moult est estroite ma meson, en moy ne si verite non,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Et si ore me veissez, je ne quide pas que vous deeisez<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Que j’eusse onges hom este, si su je ore de tout changee.”<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent"> +Below this inscription are ranged coats-of-arms, bearing the ostrich +feathers and the motto <em>Ich Diene</em> (“I serve”), which, according to +time-honoured but unauthenticated tradition, the prince won from the blind +King of Bohemia, who was led into the thick of the fighting at Cressy, and +died on the field. Welsh archæologists, however, maintain that these words +are Celtic, and mean “behold the man;” their theory suggests that this was +the phrase used by Edward I. when he presented<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 79]</span> his firstborn son to the +Welsh people as their prince, and that the words thus became the motto of +the princes of Wales. This is a rather far-fetched piece of reasoning, and +one would certainly prefer to accept the more picturesque tradition which +connects the phrase with the glories of Cressy. The other word found on +these escutcheons—<em>Houmont</em>—is still more puzzling. We know that the +Black Prince was wont to sign himself <em>Houmont, Ich Diene</em>. Stanley +explains the combination gracefully, but not very convincingly. “If, as +seems most likely, they are German words, they exactly express what we +have seen so often in his life, the union of ‘Hoch muth,’ that is <em>high +spirit</em>, with ‘Ich Dien,’ <em>I serve</em>. They bring before us the very scene +itself after the battle of Poitiers, where, after having vanquished the +whole French nation, he stood behind the captive king, and served him like +an attendant.”</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img26" id="img26"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 281px;"> +<a href="images/img26.jpg"> +<img src="images/img26-th.jpg" width="281" height="400" alt="Black Princes Tomb" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">the black prince’s tomb (from a photograph by carl norman +and co.).</span> +</div> + +<p>The tomb is surmounted by a canopy on which is painted an interesting +representation of the Trinity. The work is a good deal faded, but still +worthy of notice; the absence of the figure of the dove is curious, but is +not unparalleled in such designs. At the corners are symbols of the four +evangelists. The Holy Trinity—on whose feast-day he died—was held in +peculiar veneration by the Black Prince. The ordinance of the chantry +founded by him in the crypt contains the phrase, <em>Ad honorem Sancte +Trinitatis quam peculiari devocione semper colimus</em>. A curious metal +badge, preserved in the British Museum, is stamped with the figure of the +prince kneeling before the Almighty and our Saviour, whose representation +is almost identical with the design on the canopy over the tomb; here also +the figure of the dove is absent. Round the canopy and in the pillars we +can still see the hooks which upheld the black tapestry, bordered with +crimson and embroidered with <em>cygnes avec têtes de dames</em>, which was hung, +as ordained by his will, round the prince’s tomb and Becket’s shrine.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img27" id="img27"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 383px;"> +<a href="images/img27.png"> +<img src="images/img27_th.png" width="383" height="350" alt="Shield Coat etc" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">shield, coat, etc., of the black prince.</span> +</div> + +<p>Lastly, above the canopy, on a cross-beam between two pillars, are +suspended the brazen gauntlets, the helmet, the wooden shield with its +moulded leather covering, the velvet coat emblazoned with the arms of +England and France, and the empty sheath. The gauntlets were once +embellished with little figures of lions on the knuckles; these have been +detached by “collectors,” vandals almost as ruthless as Blue Dick and his +troopers, and without their excuse of mistaken religious<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 80]</span> zeal. The helmet +still has its original lining of leather, showing that it was actually +worn. The sword which fitted the now empty sheath is said to have been +taken away by Oliver Cromwell; it appeared in Manchester at the beginning +of this century under circumstances so curious, that we may be excused for +quoting the following letter from Canon Wray, given in Stanley’s Appendix +on the Black Prince’s will. “The sword, or supposed sword, of the Black +Prince, which Oliver Cromwell is said to have carried away, I have seen +and many times have had in my hands. There lived in Manchester, when I +first came here, a Mr. Thomas Barritt, a saddler by trade; he was a great +antiquarian, and had collected together helmets, coats of mail, horns, +etc., and many coins. But what he valued most of all was a sword: the +blade about two feet long, and on the blade was let in, in letters of +gold,<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 81]</span> ‘<span class="smcap">Edwardus Wallie Princeps</span>’.... He was in possession of this sword +<span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1794. He told me he purchased many of the ancient relics of a pedlar, +who travelled through the country selling earthenware, and I think he said +he got this sword from this pedlar. When Barritt died, in 1820, his +curiosities were sold by his widow at a raffle, but I believe this sword +was not amongst the articles so disposed of. It had probably been disposed +of beforehand, but to whom I never knew; yet I think it not unlikely that +it is still in the neighbourhood. The sword was a little curved, +scimitar-like, rather thick, broad blade, and had every appearance of +being the Black Prince’s sword.” Truly a most remarkable story. This +historic blade, which may have hewn down the French ranks at Poitiers, is +disposed of by an itinerant crockery vender to an antiquarian saddler; on +his death is, or is not, “sold at a raffle” and—vanishes!</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img28" id="img28"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 589px;"> +<a href="images/img28.jpg"> +<img src="images/img28-th.jpg" width="589" height="400" alt="West Gate" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">west gate.</span> +</div> + +<p>These arms that hang over the prince’s tomb are all that are left of two +distinct suits, one for war, and one for use in the joust and the +ceremonials of peace, which were, according to directions given in the +will, carried in the funeral procession<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 82]</span> through the West Gate and along +the High Street to the cathedral. The pieces which remain all belong to +the suit worn in actual warfare.</p> + +<p>The centre of the chapel looks curiously blank, being left so by the +thoroughness with which all trace of Becket’s shrine was removed by the +reforming zeal and insatiable rapacity of Henry VIII. and his minions. The +effect of the bare stone pavement presents an impressive contrast to the +vanished glories of the shrine blazing with gold and jewels, as we read of +it. (For a description of the shrine and its history, see Chapter I.) The +exact place on which it stood is plainly shown by the marks worn in the +stones by the knees of generations of pilgrims as they knelt before it, +while the prior, with his white wand, pointed out the choicest of its +treasures. To the west, between the altar-screen—the unhappy effect of +which is painfully conspicuous from this point—and the site of the +shrine, there is some very interesting mosaic pavement, containing the +signs of the zodiac, and emblems of virtue and vice, an example of the +<em>Opus Alexandrinum</em>, which appears in the floors of most of the Roman +basilicas. A similar piece of mosaic work may be seen round the shrine of +Edward the Confessor at Westminster. Above the eastern end of the shrine a +gilded crescent was fixed in the roof, which still remains; the origin and +meaning of this emblem have been disputed with considerable heat, and many +ingenious conjectures have been framed to account for its presence here. +One theory regards it as an allusion to the tradition according to which +Becket’s mother was a Saracen. But this legend is believed to be +comparatively modern, and, as Mr. George Austin points out, “even if the +legend of Becket’s mother had obtained credence at that early period, it +may be observed that in the painted windows around no reference is made to +the subject, though evidently capable of so much pictorial effect.” +Another solution would connect the crescent with the worship of the Virgin +Mary, who is often pictured as standing on the moon (comp. Rev. xii. <span class="smcap">I</span>). +Supporters of this theory lay stress on the fact that the Trinity Chapel +at Canterbury occupies the extreme east end of the church, which is +generally the site of the Lady Chapel, and that therefore the presence of +this emblem—if it can be connected with the Virgin—would be peculiarly +appropriate here. Mr. Austin <span class='pagenum'>[Pg 83]</span>propounded the explanation which is now most +generally accepted. “When the groined roof,” he says, “was relieved of the +long-accumulated coats of whitewash and repaired, the crescent was taken +down and regilt. It was found to be made of a foreign wood, somewhat like +in grain to the eastern wood known by the name of iron-wood. It had been +fastened to the groining by a large nail of very singular shape, with a +large square head, apparently of foreign manufacture.” He comes to the +conclusion that the crescent is one of a number of trophies which he +supposes to have once decorated this part of the cathedral, and he is led +to his conclusion by the fact that “more than one fresco painting of +encounters with the Eastern infidels formerly ornamented the walls (the +last traces of which were removed during the restoration of the cathedral +under Dean Percy, afterwards Bishop of Carlisle), and in one of which the +green crescent flag of the enemy seems borne away by the English archers. +Might not these frescoes have depicted the fights in which these trophies +were won?” Also, in the hollows of the groining which radiate from the +crescent, there were a number of slight iron staples, which Mr. Austin, +having shown that they cannot have supported either hanging lamps or the +covering of the shrine, believes to have upheld flags, horsetails, etc., +which formed the trophy of which the gilded crescent was the centre. We +know that Becket received the title of St. Thomas Acrensis owing to his +close connection with the knights of the Hospital of St. John at Acre. But +none of these explanations seem very convincing, and the history and +significance of the crescent in the roof seem likely to remain a mystery.</p> + +<p>Before we turn from Becket and his shrine to the other monuments in the +Trinity Chapel, we must call the attention of our readers to the stained +windows which depict the miracles of the sainted martyr. The chapel was at +one time entirely surrounded with glass of this sort, but only a portion +has survived the ravages of the Puritans. “Of these windows,” says Austin, +“unfortunately but three remain, but they are sufficient to attest their +rare beauty; and for excellence of drawing, harmony of colouring, and +purity of design, are justly considered unequalled. The skill with which +the minute figures are represented cannot even at this day be surpassed; +it is extraordinary to see how every feeling of joy or sorrow, pain and +enjoyment,<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 84]</span> is expressed both in feature and position. But in nothing is +the superiority of these windows shown more than the beautiful scrolls and +borders which surmount the windows, and gracefully connect the groups of +medallions.” Most of these windows probably contained representations of +Becket, and so were doomed to destruction by the decree of Henry VIII., in +which “his Grace straitly chargeth and commandeth, that henceforth the +said Thomas Becket shall not be esteemed, named, reputed, nor called a +saint, but Bishop Becket, and that his images and pictures throughout the +whole realm shall be put down and avoided out of all churches and chapels, +and other places; and that from henceforth the days used to be festivals +in his name shall not be observed, nor the service, office, antiphonies, +collects and prayers in his name read, but rased and put out of all +books.” This proclamation was rigorously carried out though the stained +windows which come within its terms have, in some cases, escaped +destruction. For instance there remains a window in the south transept of +Christ Church Cathedral, Oxford, representing the martyrdom of Becket, but +it is interesting to note that even here the archbishop’s head was removed +from the glass. Three of the windows of the Trinity Chapel have survived, +and fragments of others are scattered over the glass of the building. They +are entirely devoted to depicting the miracles of the martyr, which began +immediately after his death and reception—according to a vision of +Benedict—in a place between the apostles and the martyrs, above even St. +Stephen.</p> + +<p>The window towards the east on the north side of the shrine is divided +into geometrical figures, each figure composed of a group of fine +medallions; every group tells the story of a miracle, or series of +miracles, performed by the influence of the saint. The lower group +portrays the story of a child who was drowned in the Medway, and +afterwards restored to life by the efficacy of the saint’s blood mixed +with water. The first medallion shows the boy falling into the stream, +while his companions pelt the frogs in the reeds by the river side; the +next shows the companions relating the story of the accident to the boy’s +parents, and in the third we see the grief-stricken parents watching their +son’s corpse being drawn out of the river. “The landscape in these +medallions is exceedingly well rendered; the trees are depicted with great +grace” (Austin).<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 85]</span> Unfortunately the medallions which complete this story +have been destroyed. The next group depicts the quaint story of a +succession of miracles which were wrought in the family of a knight called +Jordan, son of Eisult. His ten year old boy died, and the knight, who had +been an intimate friend of Becket in his lifetime, resolved to try to +restore his son with water mixed with the saint’s blood. At the third +draught, as Benedict tells the story, the dead boy “opened one eye, and +said, ‘Why are you weeping, father? Why are you crying, lady? The blessed +martyr, Thomas, has restored me to you!’ At evening he sat up, ate, +talked, and was restored.” But the father forgot the vow which he made in +the first moment of joy at his son’s recovery, namely, that he would offer +four silver pieces at the martyr’s shrine before Mid Lent. And once more +all the household was stricken with sickness, and the eldest son died. +Then the parents, though sore smitten themselves, dragged themselves to +Canterbury and performed their vow. The whole of this story with other +details for which we have no space may be accurately traced on this unique +window. The most striking is the central medallion of the group in which +the vengeance of the saint is shown forth. In the middle of a large room +we see a bier on which lies the dead son; the father and mother, overcome +with despair, stand at the head and feet of the body. Behind the bier are +several figures, which, from their “unusually violent attitudes expressive +of grief,” Mr. Austin considered to be professional mourners. Above, +unseen by the group below, the figure of St. Thomas, clad in full +episcopal robes, holding a sword in his right hand, and pointing to the +corpse with his left, is seen appearing through the ceiling. “The +expression,” says Austin, “of the various figures in the above +compartments, both in gesture and feature, is rendered with great skill. +In the execution of this story, the points which, doubtless, the artists +of the monastery were chiefly anxious to impress upon the minds of the +devotees who thronged to the shrine are prominently brought out: the +extreme danger of delaying the performance of a vow, under whatever +circumstances made, the expiation sternly required by the saint, and the +satisfaction with which the martyr viewed money offerings made at the +shrine.”</p> + +<p>One of the other groups is noteworthy as proving that severe penances were +sometimes performed before the shrine. One<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 86]</span> medallion shows a woman +prostrating herself before a priest at the altar, while two men stand +near, holding formidable-looking rods. The next picture represents the two +men vigorously flagellating the woman with the rods; while, in the third, +one of the men is still beating the woman, who now lies fainting on the +ground, while the other is addressing the priest, who sits hard by +composedly reading his book. The other two windows contain representations +of the healings effected by the saint, which seem to have been of a very +varied character, to judge from the catalogue with which Benedict sums +them up. “What position,” he asks, “in the Church, what sex or age, what +rank or order is there, which could not find something beneficial to +itself [<em>aliquid sibi utile</em>] in this treasure-house of ours? Here the +light of truth is furnished to schismatics, confidence to timid pastors, +health to the sick, and pardon to the deserving penitent [<em>pænitentibus +venia ejus meritis</em>, the last two words probably implying an offering]. +The blind see, the lame walk, the lepers are cleansed, the deaf hear, the +dead rise again, the dumb speak, the poor have the gospel preached to +them, the paralytic recover, the dropsical lose their swellings +[<em>detumescunt hydropici</em>], the mad are restored to sense, the epileptic +are cured, the fever-stricken escape, and, to sum up, <em>omnimoda curatur +infirmitas</em>.”</p> + +<p>The last of these windows to which we must call the special attention of +our readers is one on the north side, representing a vision which Benedict +tells us that he saw himself. The martyr is seen coming forth from his +shrine in full pontifical robes, and making his way towards the altar as +if to celebrate mass. This window is noticeable as containing the only +representation that now exists of the shrine itself—for the picture in +the Cottonian MSS. evidently shows us, not the shrine, but its outer +shell, or covering. “The medallion,” says Austin, “is the more +interesting, from being an undoubted work of the thirteenth century; and +having been designed for a position immediately opposite to and within a +few yards of the shrine itself, and occupying the place of honour in the +largest and most important window, without doubt represents the main +features of the shrine faithfully.”</p> + +<p>On the north side of the Trinity Chapel, immediately opposite the tomb of +the Black Prince, is that of King Henry IV., who died in 1413, and his +second consort, Joan of Navarre,<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 87]</span> who followed him in 1437. This king had +made liberal offerings towards the rebuilding of the nave of the +cathedral, and it has been conjectured that one of the figures on the +organ-screen represents him: his will ordered that he should be laid to +rest in the church at Canterbury, and here accordingly he was buried on +the Trinity Sunday after his death. The tomb, with its rich canopy, is a +beautiful piece of work, and the figures of the king and queen are +probably faithful representations. A curious story was circulated by the +Yorkists, to the effect that Henry was never buried here, but that his +body was thrown into the water between Gravesend and Barking, during the +voyage of the funeral <em>cortège</em> to Faversham, and that only an empty +coffin was laid in the Trinity Chapel. That this point might be cleared +up, the tomb was opened in 1832 in the presence of the Dean, and there the +king was found in perfect preservation, and bearing a close resemblance to +the effigy on the monument—“the nose elevated, the beard thick and +matted, and of a deep russet colour, and the jaws perfect, with all the +teeth in them, except one foretooth.”</p> + +<p>In the wall of the north aisle, just opposite the king’s tomb, is a small +chapel, built according to the directions contained in his will “that ther +be a chauntre perpetuall with twey prestis for to sing and prey for my +soul.” The roof shows the first piece of fan-vaulting admitted into the +cathedral. On the eastern wall an account is scratched of the cost of a +reredos which once stood here, but has been entirely destroyed: it tells +us that the cost of “ye middil image was xix<sup>s</sup> 11<sup>d</sup>.” This chapel was +doubtless used at one time as a storehouse of sacred relics. Two recesses +in the west wall have lately been chosen to receive certain archiepiscopal +vestments which were discovered in a tomb on the south side of Trinity +Chapel, which was long believed to be that of Archbishop Theobald.</p> + +<p>To the east of Henry IV.’s monument is the tomb of Dean Wotton, adorned +with his kneeling figure. He was the first Dean of Canterbury after the +reorganization by Henry VIII. Opposite to him is an unsightly brick +erection which was once intended as a temporary covering for the remains +of Odo Coligny, Cardinal of Chatillon and brother of Admiral Coligny, who +was one of the victims of the massacre of St. Bartholomew. The Cardinal +fled from France in 1568, on account of his leanings towards the tenets of +the Huguenots,<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 88]</span> and was welcomed by Queen Elizabeth. It is believed that +he died from the effects of a poisoned apple given to him by a servant. It +seems curious that the French Huguenots who settled in Canterbury never +provided him with a more fitting monument.</p> + +<p>Between this tomb and that of the Black Prince is the monument of +Archbishop Courtenay, who was primate from 1381 to 1396, and was +celebrated for his severity towards Wycliffe and his followers. He was a +large contributor to the fund for the re-building of the nave, which +perhaps accounts for the distinguished position of his tomb; the fact also +that he was executor to the Black Prince may be responsible for his being +buried at his feet. It is not, however, certain that his body actually +lies here, though the ledger book of the cathedral states that he was +buried within the walls of the church. It is known, however, that he died +at Maidstone, and that he ordered in his will that his remains should rest +there, and a slab in the pavement of All Saints’, Maidstone, shows traces +of a brass representing the figure of an archbishop, whence it has been +concluded that Courtenay was in fact buried there, and that his monument +in Canterbury is only a cenotaph.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img29" id="img29"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 621px;"> +<a href="images/img29.jpg"> +<img src="images/img29-th.jpg" width="621" height="400" alt="Trinity Chapel" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">trinity chapel, looking into the corona, “becket’s crown,” +with chair of st. augustine.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="crown" id="crown"></a><strong>Becket’s Crown.</strong>—The circular apse at the extreme east end of the church +is known as Becket’s Crown. The name has caused a good deal of discussion. +The theory once generally received was to the effect that the portion of +Becket’s skull which was cut away by Richard le Breton was preserved here +as a relic of special sanctity. We know that the Black Prince bequeathed, +by his will, tapestry hangings for the High Altar and for three others, +viz., “l’autier la ou Mons’r Saint Thomas gist—l’autier la ou la teste +est—l’autier la ou la poynte de l’espie est.” The first and last are +evidently the altars at the shrine and in the Chapel of the Martyrdom, and +it has been contended that the altar “where the head is” was the altar of +which traces may still be seen in the pavement of the corona, or Becket’s +Crown. Against this notion we must place the authority of Erasmus, whose +words plainly show that the martyr’s head was displayed in the crypt: +"<em>hinc digressi subimus cryptoporticum: illic primum exhibetur calvaria +martyris perforata</em> (the martyr’s pierced tonsure): <em>reliqua tecta sunt +argento, summa cranii pars nuda patet osculo</em>.” While Willis considers +that the term corona was a common one for an apse at the<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 89]</span> end of a +church, citing “Ducange’s Glossary,” which defines “Corona Ecclesiæ” as +<em>Pars templi choro postica, quod ea pars fere desinat in circulum</em>; “at +all events,” he concludes, “it was a general term and not peculiar to +Christ Church, Canterbury. The notion that this round chapel was called +Becket’s Crown, because part of his skull was preserved here as a relic, +appears wholly untenable. There is at least no doubt that a relic of some +sort was preserved here, because we know from a record of the +offerings—Oblaciones S. Thomæ—during ten years in the first half of the +thirteenth century, that the richest gifts were made at the shrine and in +the corona. And we know that the spot was one of peculiar sanctity from +the fact that the shrines of St. Odo and St. Wilfrid were finally +transferred thither. <em>Corpus S. Odonis in feretro, ad coronam versus +austrum. Corpus S. Wilfridi in feretro ad coronam versus aquilonem.</em>”</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img30" id="img30"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 295px;"> +<a href="images/img30.png"> +<img src="images/img30_th.png" width="295" height="300" alt="Chair of St Augustine" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">chair of st. augustine.</span> +</div> + +<p>On the north side of the corona is the tomb of Cardinal Pole, the last +Archbishop of Canterbury who acknowledged the supremacy of the Pope. He +held office from 1556 to 1558, and died the day after Queen Mary. Here +stands also the patriarchal chair, made out of three pieces of Purbeck +marble. It is called St. Augustine’s chair, and is said to be the throne +on which the old kings of Kent were crowned; according to the tradition, +Ethelbert, on being converted, gave the chair to Augustine, from whom it +has descended to the Archbishops of Canterbury.<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 90]</span> It is needless to say +that this eminently attractive legend has been attacked and overthrown by +modern criticism. It is pointed out that the original archiepiscopal +throne was of one piece only, and that Purbeck marble did not come into +use until some time after Augustine’s death. From its shape it is +conjectured that the chair dates from the end of the twelfth century or +the beginning of the thirteenth, and that it may have been constructed for +the ceremony of the translation of St. Thomas’ relics. It is in this +chair, and not in the archiepiscopal throne in the choir, that the +archbishops are still enthroned. From the corona we have a view of the +full length of the cathedral, which measures 514 feet, and is one of the +longest of English cathedrals. Of the windows in Becket’s Crown, the +centre one is ancient, while the rest are modern and afford a most +instructive contrast.</p> + +<p><a name="andrew" id="andrew"></a><strong>St. Andrew’s Tower, or Chapel.</strong>—Leaving the Trinity Chapel, and descending +the steps, we find on our right the door of St. Andrew’s Chapel which is +now used as a vestry. Formerly, it was the sacristy, a place from which +the pilgrims of humble rank were excluded, but where those of wealth and +high station were allowed to gaze at a great array of silken vestments and +golden candlesticks, and also the Martyr’s pearwood pastoral staff with +its black horn crook, and his cloak and bloodstained kerchief. Here also +was a chest “cased with black leather, and opened with the utmost +reverence on bended knees, containing scraps and rags of linen with which +(the story must be told throughout) the saint wiped his forehead and blew +his nose” (Stanley). Erasmus describes this exhibition with a touch of +scorn. “<em>Fragmenta linteorum lacera plerumque macci vestigium servantia. +His, ut aiebant, vir pius extergebat sudorem e facie</em>,” etc. The walls of +this chapel show many traces of fresco decoration: the pattern seems to +have consisted of a clustering vine tree spread over the roof. In the +north wall is a Norman chamber which originally served as the Treasury; +the door is still secured by three locks, the keys of which were held by +different officials. St. Andrew’s Chapel is part of Ernulf’s work, and the +peculiar ornamentation which marks his hand may be noticed over the arch +of the apse which terminates it.</p> + +<p><a name="net" id="net"></a><strong>The North-East Transept.</strong>—Passing along the choir aisle, we see the old +Bible desk, holding the Bible which was<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 91]</span> originally placed there, and was +restored to this position by the late Bishop Parry. Next we enter the +north-east transept, which in its architectural features is practically a +repetition of the south-east transept, with which we have already dealt. +The monument to Archbishop Tait, designed by Boehm, is well worthy of its +surroundings. Above it, in the north wall, about ten feet from the ground, +we may notice three slits in the wall. These are what are called +hagioscopes. On the other side of the wall was a recess connected with the +Prior’s Chapel. Through these hagioscopes—or “holy spy-holes”—the prior +could see mass being celebrated at the high altar and at the altars below +in the transept, without entering the cathedral. These transeptal altars +are in the Chapels of St. Martin and St. Stephen which occupy two apses in +the eastern wall. St. Martin is represented in a medallion of ancient +glass preserved in the modern window, as dividing his coat with a beggar. +Scratched on the walls are the names “Lanfrancus” and “Ediva Regina;” the +bodies of Lanfranc and Queen Ediva were removed to this transept after the +fire. Lanfranc originally lay in the old Trinity Chapel, and when this +building was levelled to the ground, he was “carried to the vestiarium in +his leaden covering, and there deposited until the community should decide +what should be done with so great a Father.” Apparently the heavy sheet of +lead was removed, for Gervase goes on to say that “Lanfranc having +remained untouched for sixty-nine years, his very bones were consumed with +rottenness, and nearly all reduced to powder. The length of time, the damp +vestments, the natural frigidity of lead, and above all the frailty of the +human structure, had conspired to produce this corruption. But the larger +bones, with the remaining dust, were collected in a leaden coffer, and +deposited at the altar of St. Martin.” Queen Ediva, as we learn from the +same authority, “who before the fire reposed under a gilted <em>feretrum</em> in +nearly the middle of the south cross, was now deposited at the altar of +St. Martin, under the <em>feretrum</em> of Living,” an archbishop who died in +1020. Ediva, the wife of Edward the Elder, and a generous benefactress to +the cathedral, died about 960.</p> + +<p>From an early list of the subjects represented in the windows of the +cathedral, it appears that the north windows of the north-east transept +depicted the Parable of the Sower. The ancient glass, however, has been +displaced, and a good<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 92]</span> deal of it has been moved to the windows of the +north choir aisle, between the transept and the Chapel of the Martyrdom, +which are of great beauty, and should be examined carefully. In the +transept itself are windows in memory of Dean Stanley, Dr. Spry, and Canon +Cheshyre.</p> + +<p>On the wall of the choir aisle, close to the transept, we can trace the +remains of a fresco representing the conversion of St. Hubert. Further on, +there hangs a picture, by Cross, which is intended to represent the murder +of Becket. As a work of art it is not without merit, but its details are +entirely inaccurate.</p> + +<p><a name="nwt" id="nwt"></a><strong>The North-West Transept, or Chapel of the Martyrdom.</strong>—The actual site of +the tragedy which rendered Becket and his cathedral famous throughout +Christendom was the North-West Transept, or as it was more commonly called +the Chapel of the Martyrdom. Hardly any portion, however, of this +structure as it stands actually witnessed the murder. In the time of +Becket the transept was of two storeys, divided by a vault, which was +upheld by a single pillar. The upper partition was dedicated to St. +Blaise, and the lower to St. Benedict. In the west wall, as now, was a +door which opened into the cloister.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img31" id="img31"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 299px;"> +<a href="images/img31.jpg"> +<img src="images/img31-th.jpg" width="299" height="400" alt="The Martyrdom" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">the martyrdom, north-west transept.</span> +</div> + +<p>The story of Becket and his quarrel with Henry II. will be dealt with in +the next chapter. But before examining the spot on which he was +assassinated it is perhaps fitting to recall the events which immediately +preceded his death. Henry’s wrathful exclamation, which stirred the four +knights to set out on their bloodthirsty mission, is well known. Whatever +we may think of the methods employed by these warriors—Fitzurse, de +Moreville, de Tracy, and le Bret were their names—we must at least +concede that they were gifted with undaunted courage. To slay an anointed +archbishop in his own cathedral was to do a deed from which the boldest +might well shrink, in the days when excommunication was held to be a +living reality, and the Church was believed to hold the power of eternal +blessing or damnation in her hand. These men—who were all closely +attached to the king’s person, and were sometimes described as his +“cubicularii,” or Grooms of the Bedchamber—arrived at the gate of the +archbishop’s palace in the afternoon of Tuesday, December 29th, 1170. With +a curious want of directness they seem to have left their swords outside, +and entered, and had a stormy interview with Becket; enraged by his +unyielding<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 93]</span> firmness, they went back for their weapons, and in the +meantime the archbishop was hurried by the terrified monks through the +cloister and into the cathedral, where the vesper service was being held. +The knights quickly forced their way after him, and the monks locked and +barricaded the cloister door. But Becket, who bore himself heroically +through the whole scene, insisted that the door should be thrown open, +exclaiming that “the church must not be turned into a castle.” Then all +the monks but three fled in terror. Those who stayed urged Becket to hide +himself in the crypt or in the Chapel of St. Blaise above. But he would +not hear of concealment, but preferred to make his way to the choir that +he might die at his post by the high altar. As he went up the steps +towards the choir the knights rushed into the transept, calling for “the +archbishop, the traitor to the king,” and Becket turned and came down, and +confronted them by the pillar of the chapel. Clad in his white rochet, +with a cloak and hood over his shoulders, he faced his murderers, who were +now girt in mail from head to foot. They tried to seize him and drag him +out of the sacred precinct, but he put his back against the pillar and +hurled Tracy full-length on the pavement. Then commending his cause and +the cause of the Church “to God, to St. Denys, the martyr of France, to +St. Alfege, and to the saints of the Church,” he fell under the blows of +the knights’ swords. The last stroke was from the hand of le Bret, it +severed the crown of the archbishop’s head, and the murderer’s sword was +shivered into two pieces. Then the assassins left the church, ransacked +the palace, and plundered its treasures, and, lastly, rode off on horses +from the stables, in which Becket had to the last taken especial pride.</p> + +<p>Such is the brief outline of the events of this remarkable tragedy, for a +fuller account of which we must refer our readers to the excellent +description in Stanley’s “Memorials of Canterbury.” As we have already +said, the present transept has been entirely rebuilt; although not damaged +by the fire, it was reconstructed by Prior Chillenden at the time when he +erected the present nave. It is even doubtful whether the present pavement +is the same as that which was trodden by Becket and his murderers. A small +square stone is still shown in the floor of the transept, as marking the +exact spot on which the archbishop fell; it is said to have been inserted +in place of the<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 94]</span> original piece which was taken out and sent to Rome, but +there is little or no authority for this statement. On the other hand, we +read that Benedict, when he became Abbot of Peterborough, in order to +supply his new cathedral with relics, in which it was sadly deficient, +came back to Canterbury and carried off the stones which had been +sprinkled with St. Thomas’s blood, and made therewith two altars for +Peterborough.</p> + +<p>In this transept an altar was erected, called the Altar of the Martyrdom, +or the Altar of the Sword’s Point (<em>altare ad punctum ensis</em>), from the +fact that upon it was laid the broken fragment of le Bret’s sword, which +had been left on the pavement. Also, a portion of the martyr’s brains were +kept under a piece of rock crystal, and a special official, called the +Custos Martyrii, was appointed to guard these relics.</p> + +<p>The chief window in this chapel was presented by Edward IV.; in it we can +still see the figures of himself and his queen and his two daughters, and +the two young princes who were murdered in the Tower. It originally +contained representations of “seven glorious appearances” of the Virgin, +and Becket himself in the centre, but all this portion was destroyed by +Blue Dick, the Puritan zealot. The west window was the gift of the Rev. +Robert Moore, sometime Canon of Canterbury; it is an elaborate piece of +work depicting Becket’s martyrdom and scenes in his life.</p> + +<p>Here also we see the very beautiful and interesting monument to Archbishop +Peckham (1279-1292), the oldest Canterbury monument which survives in its +entirety; even it has been encroached upon by the commonplace erection +adjoining it, which commemorates Warham who was archbishop from 1503 to +1532, and was the friend of Erasmus.</p> + +<p><a name="dean" id="dean"></a><strong>The Dean’s Chapel.</strong>—Eastward of the north-west transept is the chapel +which was formerly known as the Lady Chapel, but has latterly been named +the Dean’s Chapel from the number of deans whose monuments have been +placed here. It stands on the site of the Chapel of St. Benedict, and was +built by Prior Goldstone, who dedicated it to the Blessed Virgin in 1460. +The usual place for the Lady Chapel in cathedrals is, of course, at the +extreme east end; but at Canterbury the situation was occupied by the +shrine of St. Thomas. The principal altar to the Virgin in our cathedral +was that in the crypt, in the “Chapel of Our Lady Undercroft.” The<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 95]</span> +vault of the Dean’s Chapel is noticeable. It is a fan vault, of the style +developed to so great perfection in the Tudor period, as shown in Henry +VII.’s Chapel at Westminster, and in the roof of the staircase leading to +the dining-hall of Christ Church, Oxford. The architecture of this chapel +is Perpendicular in style, and its delicate decoration should be carefully +noticed; the screen which separates it from the Martyrdom Transept is also +worthy of close attention. The monuments here are interesting rather than +beautiful. Dean Fotherby is commemorated by a hideous erection bristling +with skulls. Dean Boys is represented as he died, sitting among his books +in his library; it is curious that the books are all apparently turned +with the backs of the covers towards the wall, and the edges of the leaves +outwards. Here also is the monument of Dean Turner, the faithful follower +of Charles I.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img32" id="img32"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 302px;"> +<a href="images/img32.jpg"> +<img src="images/img32-th.jpg" width="302" height="400" alt="South West Transept" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">part of south-western transept.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="swt" id="swt"></a><strong>The South-West Transept.</strong>—Crossing the cathedral through the passage under +the choir steps, we find ourselves in the south-west transept, which, +together with the nave and the north-west transept, was rebuilt by Prior +Chillenden. In the pavement we see memorial stones to canons and other +departed worthies. Among them is the tombstone of Meric Casaubon, +Archbishop Laud’s prebendary, and son of Isaac Casaubon, the famous +scholar.</p> + +<p><a name="michael" id="michael"></a><strong>St. Michael’s, or the Warrior’s Chapel.</strong>—Eastward of the south-west +transept is a small chapel, generally known as that of St. Michael. In +position and size it closely corresponds with the Dean’s Chapel on the +north side of the church. In general style there is also some resemblance, +but the vaulting of the roof is quite different; it is described by +Professor Willis as “as a complex lierne vault of an unusual pattern, but +resembling that of the north transept of Gloucester Cathedral, which dates +from 1367 to 1372.” The exact date and the name of the builder of this +chapel are alike uncertain, but it probably replaced the old Chapel of St. +Michael at some time towards the end of the fourteenth century, and Willis +comes to the conclusion that it is most probable that its erection may be +ascribed to Prior Chillenden, and that “it formed part of the general +scheme for the transformation of the western part of the church.”</p> + +<p>A curious effect is presented by the tomb of Stephen Langton, who was +archbishop from 1207 to 1228, and is famous as<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 96]</span> having compelled King John +to sign the Great Charter, and also as having divided the Bible into +chapters. His tomb, shaped like a stone coffin, is half in the chapel and +half under the eastern wall, and Professor Willis considers that it was +originally outside the wall, in the churchyard; “and thus the new wall, +when the chapel was rebuilt and enlarged in the fourteenth century, was +made to stride over the coffin by means of an arch.” The reverence in +which Langton’s memory was held is attested by the fact that his remains +must have lain under the altar of the chapel, a most unusual position +except in the case of celebrated saints. In the middle of the chapel is a +very beautiful and interesting monument erected by Margaret Holland, who +died in 1437, to the memory of her two husbands and herself. The monument +is of alabaster and marble, and represents the lady reposing with her +first spouse, John Beaufort, Earl of Somerset, and son of John of Gaunt, +on her left, and Thomas, Duke of Clarence, her second husband, on her +right. The latter was the second son of Henry IV., and, so, nephew of John +of Somerset the first husband; he was killed at the battle of Baugé in +1421. Leland thinks that this chapel was built expressly for the reception +of this tomb: “This chapel be likelihood was made new for the Honor of +Erle John of Somerset,” but it is probably of rather earlier date than +would be allowed by this theory. The figures of Margaret and her two lords +are very fine and are interesting examples of fifteenth century costume. +As such they may be contrasted with the effigy of Lady Thornhurst, who +exhibits all the beauty of an Elizabethan ruff. Sir Thomas Thornhurst, +whose monument is hard by, was killed in the ill-fated expedition to the +Isle of Rhé. In the corner of the chapel is the bust of Sir George Rooke, +Vice-Admiral, who led the assault on Gibraltar by which it was first +captured. And the title of “Warrior’s” Chapel is further justified by the +presence here of tattered standards, memorials of dead comrades, left by +the famous Kentish regiment, “the Buffs.”</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img33" id="img33"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 253px;"> +<a href="images/img33.jpg"> +<img src="images/img33-th.jpg" width="253" height="400" alt="The Crypt" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">the crypt.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="crypt" id="crypt"></a><strong>The Main Crypt.</strong>—Returning through the passage under the steps that lead +up to the choir, we turn to the right into the crypt which originally +supported Conrad’s “glorious choir.” On the wall as we enter we may notice +some diaper-work ornamentation, interesting from the fact that a similar +decoration may be traced on the wall of the chapter house at Rochester<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 97]</span> +for Ernulf who built the westward crypt, was afterwards made Bishop of +Rochester. Willis tells us that there are five crypts in England under the +eastern parts of cathedrals, namely, at Canterbury, Winchester, +Gloucester, Rochester, and Worcester, and that they were all founded +before 1085. “After this they were discontinued except as a continuation +of former ones, as in Canterbury and Rochester.” This crypt of Ernulf’s +replaced the earlier one set up by Lanfranc; Willis thinks it not +impossible that the whole of the pier-shafts may have been taken<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 98]</span> from the +earlier crypt. “The capitals of the columns are either plain blocks or +sculptured with Norman enrichments. Some of them, however, are in an +unfinished state.” He describes minutely one of the capitals on the +south-west side. “Of the four sides of the block two are quite plain. One +has the ornament roughed out, or “bosted” as the workmen call it, that is, +the pattern has been traced upon the block, and the spaces between the +figures roughly sunk down with square edges preparatory to the completion. +On the fourth side, the pattern is quite finished. This proves that the +carving was executed after the stones were set in their places, and +probably the whole of these capitals would eventually have been so +ornamented had not the fire and its results brought in a new school of +carving in the rich foliated capitals, which caused this merely +superficial method of decoration to be neglected and abandoned. In the +same way some of the shafts are roughly fluted in various fashions. The +plain ones would probably have all gradually had the same ornament given +to them, had not the same reasons interfered.” The crypt then stands as it +was left by Ernulf except that some of the piers were afterwards +strengthened and one new pillar was inserted in the aisle by William of +Sens, in order to fit in with the new arrangement of the pillars in the +choir which he was then rebuilding. It is therefore, of course, the oldest +part of the church, and remains a most beautiful and interesting relic of +Norman work in spite of the hot water pipe apparatus which now disfigures +it, and its general air of unkempt untidiness. There are signs, however, +that in this respect there is likely to be some improvement. The floor is +being lowered to its original level by the removal of about a foot of +accumulated dirt which had been heaping itself up for the last eight +hundred years and had at last entirely smothered the bases of the columns, +and it is even whispered that the part now cut off and used as the French +church, may be opened out and restored to its original position as part of +the main crypt.</p> + +<p>According to Gervase, the whole of the crypt was dedicated to the Virgin +Mary. Here stood the Chapel of Our Lady Undercroft, surrounded by +Perpendicular stone-work screens, from which the altar-screen in the choir +above was imitated. The shrine of the Virgin was exceedingly rich and was +only shown to privileged worshippers: traces of decoration may still<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 99]</span> be +seen in the vault above. It was at the back of this shrine that Becket was +laid between the time of his murder and his translation to the +resting-place in the Trinity Chapel.</p> + +<p>In the main crypt we may notice the monument of Isabel, Countess of Athol, +who died in 1292; she was heiress of Chilham Castle, near Canterbury, and +grand-daughter of King John. She was twice married, her second husband +being Alexander, brother of John Baliol, King of Scotland. The monument of +Lady Mohun of Dunster is in the south screen of the Chapel of Our Lady. +She was ancestress of the present Earl of Derby, and founded a perpetual +chantry. Lastly, here is the tomb of Cardinal Archbishop Morton, the +friend of Sir Thomas More, and the faithful servant of the House of +Lancaster; it was he who brought about the union of the Red and White +Roses by arranging the marriage of Henry of Richmond with Elizabeth of +York. As Henry VII.’s Chancellor he made great exactions under the +euphonious title of “Benevolences,” and propounded the famous dilemma +known as “Morton’s Fork,” by which he argued that those who lived lavishly +must obviously have something to spare for the king’s service, while those +who fared soberly must be grown rich on their savings, and so were equally +fair game to the royal plunderer. He lies in the south-west corner of the +crypt, and his monument, which has suffered considerably at the hands of +the Puritans, bears the Tudor portcullis and the archbishop’s rebus, a +hawk or <em>mort</em> standing on a tun.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img34" id="img34"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 589px;"> +<a href="images/img34.jpg"> +<img src="images/img34-th.jpg" width="589" height="400" alt="St Gabriels Chapel" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">st. gabriel’s chapel.</span> +</div> + +<p>In the south-east corner, under Anselm’s Tower, is a chapel generally +known as that of St. John, sometimes as that of St. Gabriel. It has been +divided into two compartments by a wall. There are some very interesting +paintings<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> on the roof, representing Our Lord in the centre of the +angelic host, the Adoration of the Magi, and a figure of St. John; this +work is believed to be of the thirteenth century. The central pillar of +this chapel, with the curved fluting in the column and the quaintly +grotesque devices of the figures carved on the capital, is well worthy of +close examination. The grate that we see here was erected by the French +Protestants, large numbers of whom fled to England during the persecution +which was instituted against their sect in 1561. They were welcomed by +Queen Elizabeth, and allowed to settle in Canterbury, where the cathedral +crypt was made over to them to use as a weaving<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 100]</span> factory. It is possible +that the ridges in the floor of St. John’s Chapel are marks left by their +looms, but more evident trace of their occupation is afforded by the +inscriptions in French painted on the pillars and arches of the main +crypt, and again by the custom which still survives of holding a French +service in the south aisle of the crypt; this part has been walled off +especially as a place of worship for the descendants of the French exiles, +and here service is still held in the French tongue. Alterations have been +lately made by which the French service is held in the Black Prince’s +Chantry, and the part of the crypt formerly walled off has been merged +with the rest of the crypt, which is thus completely thrown open. Access +to the French church is now obtained from the crypt, and not from outside. +This chantry was founded by the Black Prince in 1363 to commemorate his +marriage with his cousin Joan, the “Fair Maid of Kent.” Here, according to +the prince’s ordinance, two priests were to pray for his soul, in his +lifetime and after; the situation of the two altars, at which the priests +prayed, can still be traced. On the vaulting we see the<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 101]</span> arms of the +prince, and of his father, and what seems to be the face of his wife. In +return for the permission to institute this chantry, the prince left to +the monastery of Canterbury an estate which still belongs to the Chapter, +the manor of Fawkes’ Hall. This was a piece of land in South Lambeth, +which had been granted by King John to a baron called Fawkes. His name +still survives in the word “Vauxhall.”</p> + +<p> </p> +<p><a name="img35" id="img35"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 620px;"> +<a href="images/img35.jpg"> +<img src="images/img35-th.jpg" width="620" height="400" alt="Tomb of Cardinal Morton" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">in the main crypt, with tomb of cardinal morton (see p. +99).</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="ecrypt" id="ecrypt"></a><strong>The Eastern Crypt.</strong>—The eastern portion of the crypt, under the Trinity +Chapel and the corona, is a good deal more lofty than Ernulf’s building. +We noticed the ascent from the choir and presbytery to the Trinity Chapel, +and it is, of course, this greater elevation of the cathedral floor at the +east end which accounts for the greater height of the eastern crypt. The +effect, both above and below, is exceedingly happy. The most striking +thing about the interior of the cathedral is the manner in which it +rises—“church piled upon church”—from the nave to the corona, and this +characteristic enabled William the Englishman to build a crypt below which +has none of the cramped squatness which generally mars the effect of such +buildings. “The lofty crypt below,” says Willis, “may be<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 102]</span> considered the +unfettered composition of the English architect. Its style and its details +are wholly different from those of William of Sens. The work, from its +position and office, is of a massive and bold character, but its unusual +loftiness prevents it from assuming the nature of a crypt.... There is one +detail of this crypt which differs especially from the work above. The +abacus of each of the piers, as well as that of each central shaft, is +round; but in the whole of the choir the abacuses are either square, or +square with the corners cut off.”</p> + +<p>It was in the smaller eastern crypt, which formerly occupied the site of +William’s building which we are now examining, that Becket was hastily +buried after his assassination, when his murderers were still threatening +to come and drag his body out, “hang it on a gibbet, tear it with horses, +cut it into pieces, or throw it in some pond to be devoured by swine or +birds of prey.” And from that time until the translation of the relics in +1220, this was the most sacred spot in the cathedral, and it was known, +down to Reformation times, as “Becket’s tomb.” Hither came the earliest +pilgrims in the first rush of enthusiasm for the newly-canonized martyr. +And here Henry II. performed that penance, which is one of the most +striking examples of the Church’s power presented by history. We are told +that he placed his head and shoulder in the tomb, and there received five +strokes from each bishop and abbot who was present, and three from each of +the eighty monks. After this castigation he spent the night in the crypt, +fasting and barefooted. His penitence and piety were rewarded by the +victory gained at Richmond, on that very day, by his forces over William +the Lion of Scotland, who was taken prisoner, and afterwards, recognizing +the power of the saint, founded the abbey of Aberbrothwick to Saint Thomas +of Canterbury.</p> + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'>[Pg 103]</span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a href="#CONTENTS">Table of<br />Contents</a></span></p> +<p class="center"><strong>THE HISTORY OF THE SEE.</strong></p> + + +<p class="noindent"> +The history of the See of Canterbury may be said to have begun with the +coming of Augustine, for there can be no doubt that it is owing to its +being the settling-place of the first messengers of the gospel in Saxon +England that Canterbury has been the metropolis of the English Church. +Pope Gregory, with his usual thoroughness, sent to Augustine, soon after +his arrival here, an elaborate scheme for the division of our island into +sees, which were to be gradually developed as Christianity spread. +According to his arrangement, there were to be two archbishops, one at +London and one at York. But we cannot regret that this scheme was not +carried out, as an archiepiscopal see is much more picturesquely framed by +the hills which encircle Canterbury than it could have been by the dingy +vastness of the political and social capital.</p> + +<p><strong>Augustine</strong> reached England in 597, and found that his path had been made +easy by the fact that Bertha, wife of Ethelbert, King of Kent, was a +Christian. He soon effected the conversion of the king himself, and his +labours were so rapidly successful that at Christmas, 597, no less than +ten thousand Saxons were baptized at the mouth of the Medway. The +archiepiscopal pall, and a papal Bull, creating Augustine first English +archbishop, were duly sent from Rome, and the royal palace in Canterbury, +with an old church—Roman or British—close by, were handed over to him by +Ethelbert. The first archbishop died in 605, and was buried, according to +the old Roman custom, by the side of the high road which had brought him +to Canterbury. A few years later, however, his remains were transferred to +the Abbey of SS. Peter and Paul, which had then just been completed.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'>[Pg 104]</span> +Augustine was succeeded by one of the monks who had originally come with +him from Rome. The new archbishop’s name was <strong>Lawrence</strong>; he had been already +consecrated by Augustine in his lifetime. This unusual measure was thought +to be necessary, as the Church had hardly yet established itself in a +strong position. Indeed, so weak was its hold over its rapidly acquired +converts, that when Ethelbert’s son, who succeeded his father in 616, +backslid into the path of heathendom, the great majority of the people +followed the royal example, and Lawrence, together with the Bishops of +London and Rochester, prepared to leave England altogether, as a country +hopelessly abandoned to paganism. However, the archbishop determined to +make one more attempt to maintain his position, and succeeded in +terrifying the king, by a pretended miracle, into becoming a Christian. He +then recalled the two bishops who had already crossed to France, and on +his death, in 619, was succeeded by the Bishop of London, <strong>Mellitus</strong>. +Mellitus only held the Primacy till 624, when his place was filled by +<strong>Justin</strong>, who also had a brief archiepiscopal life, being succeeded in 627 +by <strong>Honorius</strong>. This archbishop held the see for twenty-six years, till 653, +and it was not until 655 that his successor was appointed.</p> + +<p>So far the archbishops had all been foreigners who had come over either +with Augustine or with the second company of missionaries who were +despatched by Gregory soon after Ethelbert’s conversion. In 655, however, +a native Englishman, named Frithona, was consecrated by the Saxon Bishop +of Rochester, and adopted the name of <strong>Deus Dedit</strong>. He ruled at Canterbury +till 664, and after his death the see remained vacant for four years, +probably owing to the plague which was then wasting all Europe, and caused +the death of Wighard, a Saxon, who had started for Rome to receive his +consecration there. But in 668, <strong>Theodore</strong>, a native of Tarsus in Cecilia, +was appointed, and was welcomed by the members of the torn and divided +English Church. He devoted all his energy to centralizing and +consolidating the power of the archbishop, which had been hitherto largely +nominal. He journeyed all over England, correcting the prevalent laxity of +discipline and establishing the control of the metropolitan authority. He +went so far as to interfere with the Archbishopric of York, and with the +help of the king attempted to divide it into three sees.<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 105]</span> He was, +moreover, an enthusiastic scholar, and first diffused the study of Greek +in England. He had brought a copy of Homer with him, and is said to have +established a school of Greek in Canterbury. He died in 690, and after his +death there was no archbishop for three years. In 693, one <strong>Brethwald</strong>, an +English monk, some time Abbot of Reculver, was appointed to the see. The +Saxon Church shows that it had benefited by Theodore’s rigorous +discipline, in that it was henceforth able to supply its own archbishops; +it had now securely established itself all over the country, and the last +home of paganism, which, curiously enough, held its own longest in Sussex, +had been finally converted in Theodore’s time. Brethwald ruled till 731, +and was followed by <strong>Tatwin</strong> (731-734) and <strong>Nothelm</strong> (734-740). In 740 +<strong>Cuthbert</strong> became archbishop. He seems to have been an interesting personage +with a good deal of zeal for reform; he is recorded to have assembled a +synod at Cliff to discuss measures for the improvement of the lives and +behaviour both of clergy and laity. Probably at his instigation the synod +ordained that the Lord’s Prayer and the Creed should be taught in the +vulgar tongue; he was the first archbishop buried in the cathedral. He was +succeeded by <strong>Bregwin</strong>, who held the see from 759 to 765. He was an +exception among the series of English primates, being of German origin. +During the rule of the next archbishop, <strong>Jaenbert</strong>, an attempt was made to +transfer the primacy from Canterbury. Offa, the King of Mercia, had +established himself in a position of commanding power, and wishing that +the seat of the chief ecclesiastical authority should be within his own +dominion, obtained a Bull from Pope Adrian I. by which an Archbishop of +Lichfield was created, with a larger see than that of Canterbury. Jaenbert +seems to have acquiesced, though doubtless most unwillingly, in this +arrangement, but in spite of the central situation of Lichfield, the +traditional claims of Canterbury were too strong, and Adulf was the first +and last Archbishop of Lichfield. <strong>Athelard</strong>, who succeeded Jaenbert in 790, +had the primacy restored to him. The Northmen began their raids on the +English coasts at this time, and their ravages probably continued through +the days of his successors, <strong>Wulfred</strong>, <strong>Feologild</strong>, <strong>Ceolnoth</strong>, and <strong>Ethelred</strong> +(805-889).</p> + +<p>In 889 the learned <strong>Plegmund</strong>, formerly tutor of Alfred,<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 106]</span> was by his quondam +pupil’s influence made Archbishop of Canterbury. It was during his time +that the sees of Wells for Somerset and Crediton for Devonshire were +established.</p> + +<p><strong>Athelm</strong> (914-923).</p> + +<p><strong>Wulfhelm</strong> (923-942).</p> + +<p><strong>Odo</strong> (942-959), called “the severe,” was born a pagan Dane of East Anglia, +but having been received into a noble Saxon family, was duly baptized into +the faith. He was appointed to the Wiltshire bishopric by Athelstane, and +combined in his person the characters of the warlike Dane and the +Christian churchman. Like his successor Dunstan, Odo made his chief +objects in life the maintenance of the Church’s supremacy and the +reformation of the married clergy. He bore his archbishopric with much +pomp and dignity through the reigns of Edmund, Edred, and Edwy. He was +responsible for Dunstan’s conduct on the occasion of King Edwy’s +coronation, though it is not known how far he sanctioned the cruelties +subsequently practised on Elgiva. Odo reconstructed and enlarged the +cathedral.</p> + +<p>His immediate successor was <strong>Elsi</strong>, Bishop of Winchester, but this +archbishop died while on his way to Rome to receive his pall from the +Pope.</p> + +<p><strong>Dunstan</strong> (960-988), the next archbishop, continued Odo’s crusade against +the married clergy, which he conducted relentlessly. In many cases the +secular clergy were turned out of their livings to make room for members +of the regular monkish orders. Even with these harsh measures and the +employment of miracles the archbishop does not seem to have succeeded in +enforcing celibacy among the clergy. Dunstan was born in Somersetshire of +noble parents, and educated at the Abbey of Glastonbury. He became abbot +of that place, and Bishop of Worcester and London. At the coronation of +Edwy he intruded himself into the king’s presence, and was afterwards +obliged to retire to Ghent. He held the See of Canterbury for twenty-seven +years, and on his death was buried in the cathedral, where countless +miracles are said to have been worked at his tomb.</p> + +<p><strong>Ethelgar</strong> (988-989).</p> + +<p><strong>Siricius</strong> (990-994).</p> + +<p><strong>Ælfric</strong> (995-1005).</p> + +<p><strong>Alphege</strong> (1005-1012), Prior of Glastonbury, migrated thence<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 107]</span> to Bath, where +he founded the great abbey, afterwards united to the See of Wells. After +holding the See of Winchester for twenty-two years, he was translated to +Canterbury. When in 1011 Canterbury was sacked by the Danes, he was +carried off a prisoner, and on his refusal to ransom himself, was +barbarously murdered by his captors. His body was ransomed by the people +of London and buried at St. Paul’s Cathedral, whence it was removed to +Canterbury by Canute. Subsequently, in the time of Lanfranc, he was +canonized.</p> + +<p><strong>Living</strong> (1013-1020) also suffered much from the Danes, who from this time +continued their incursions until the reign of Canute.</p> + +<p><strong>Egelnoth</strong> (1020-1038) is described as the first dean of the Canterbury +canons who seem to have acquired an ascendancy over the monks ever since +the massacre of the latter by the Danes in 1011. He restored the cathedral +after the damages inflicted by the invaders.</p> + +<p><strong>Eadsi</strong> (1038-1050).</p> + +<p><strong>Robert of Jumièges</strong> (1051-1052) was one of the many Normans who were +brought over into England by King Edward the Confessor; he took an active +part in the king’s quarrel with the great Earl Godwin, and in the reaction +which followed against the Normans retired to Jumièges, where he remained +till his death.</p> + +<p><strong>Stigand</strong> (1052-1070), Bishop of Winchester, held this see conjointly with +that of Canterbury. He was remarkable for his avarice. His espousal of the +cause of Edgar the Atheling led the Conqueror to regard him with +suspicion. William took the archbishop with him when he returned into +Normandy, and eventually dispossessed him, along with some other bishops +and abbots, at a synod held at Winchester in the year 1070. Stigand was +imprisoned at Winchester, where he eventually died, resisting to the last +the attempts made by the king to elicit information as to the whereabouts +of the vast treasures which he had accumulated and hidden.</p> + +<p><strong>Lanfranc</strong> (1070-1089) was the first Norman Archbishop of Canterbury. He was +born at Pavia, and educated at the monastery of Bec, in Normandy, then the +most remarkable seat of learning existing in Europe. His conspicuous +abilities raised him to the position of prior of the monastery. He was +subsequently abbot of the new monastery which William of Normandy<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 108]</span> founded +at Caen, and on the deposition of Stigand was called over by that king to +complete the subjection and reform of the Anglo-Saxon Church, which task +he undertook with much zeal and not a little high-handed procedure. He +assisted the king in the removal of the Saxon bishops and the substitution +of Normans in their places, as also in the reformation of the great +English monasteries which appear to have fallen into considerable +disorder. Lanfranc’s character was remarkable for its firmness, and +brought him into frequent collision with the imperious temper of his royal +master. On one occasion Lanfranc insisted on the restoration of +twenty-five manors which belonged to the archiepiscopal see, and which had +been appropriated by Odo, Bishop of Bayeux, William’s half-brother. +William, however, continued to honour his able servant, and during the +king’s absence in Normandy, Lanfranc held the office of chief justiciary +and vice-regent within the realm, and maintained his independent attitude +against all the world, refusing to go to Rome at the summons of the pope. +Lanfranc crowned William II., and as long as he lived did much to moderate +that monarch’s rapacious attacks on the wealth of the Church. He rebuilt +the cathedral which had fallen into ruin, and founded the great monastery +of Christ Church. He was the author of a celebrated treatise in refutation +of the doctrine of Berengarius of Tours, on the subject of the Real +Presence, and was present at the council held in Rome by Leo IX., in which +Berengarius was condemned. He lies buried in the nave of his cathedral, +but the exact spot is not known.</p> + +<p><strong>Anselm</strong> (1093-1109) was born at Aosta, and studied under Lanfranc at Bec, +when he succeeded him as Prior of the Convent, and subsequently became +abbot. He visited England on the invitation of Hugh the Fat, Earl of +Chester, and while there was called in by the king and made Archbishop of +Canterbury. Rufus had kept the see vacant, and appropriated the revenues +of this and many other Church properties, and was only induced by the fear +of impending death to appoint Anselm to the see. Anselm was with +difficulty persuaded to accept the post, but from that hour posed as the +firm champion of the rights of the Church, and the opponent and denouncer +of the king’s exactions and the general immorality of the times. He +refused to receive his pall at the hands of the king, but eventually +agreed to take it himself from the high altar of the<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 109]</span> cathedral at +Canterbury. Though deserted by his bishops he held his own against the +king until an accusation of failing in his duty to supply troops for the +king’s Welsh expedition drove him into exile and he made his way to Rome, +when his learning created much sensation and was enlisted against the +errors of the Greek Church on the subject of the procession of the Holy +Ghost. On his accession to the throne, Henry I., as part of his reversal +of his brother’s ecclesiastical policy recalled Anselm from banishment and +filled up the vacant see. But Anselm remained firm on the subject of the +rights of the church in the matter of the investiture of the clergy, and +refused to consecrate the bishops who had received their investiture from +the king, or to do homage or swear fealty to Henry. The king, on his side, +was determined to uphold the rights of the crown and the matter was +referred to the pope. Anselm had to visit Rome in person, and meeting with +but lukewarm support from the pope agreed at last to a compromise, at Bec, +in 1106, by which the king surrendered the symbols of the ring and +crozier, while retaining his right to the oaths of fealty and homage. +Anselm returned to England and spent the last two years of his life in +comparative repose: he died at Canterbury, and was buried near Lanfranc, +but his remains were afterwards removed to the tower that bears his name. +After his death the see was again vacant for five years, and was managed +by Ralf, Bishop of Rochester, who was however made archbishop later; he +was a disciple of Lanfranc, but as an archbishop was unimportant.</p> + +<p><strong>William de Corbeuil</strong> (1123-1136) was the first archbishop who received the +title of Papal Legate. He crowned King Stephen after solemnly swearing to +support the cause of Matilda, and is said to have died of remorse for his +conduct in the matter. He completed the restoration of the cathedral and +dedicated it with much pomp and display.</p> + +<p><strong>Theobald</strong> (1139-1161), the next archbishop, had been Abbot of Bec, and was +a Benedictine. His importance as archbishop was much overshadowed by Henry +of Blois, Bishop of Winchester, and brother of King Stephen. The pope +granted him the title of “Legatus natus,” which was retained by his +successors until the Reformation. The life of this prelate was one of +varying fortunes, and he was twice in exile. He eventually, along with +Henry of Blois, took an important part in the final compromise which was +effected between the factions of Stephen<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 110]</span> and Matilda. On his death the +see remained vacant for more than a year.</p> + +<p><strong>Thomas Becket</strong> (1162-1170) was the son of a London merchant, and was +educated among the Augustinian canons of Merton, in Surrey. He came under +the patronage of Archbishop Theobald whom he accompanied when the latter +visited Rome. While still only a deacon Becket received many +ecclesiastical benefices, including the Archdeaconry of Canterbury. About +1155 he was appointed Chancellor, through the influence of Theobald, and +thenceforward, until he became archbishop enjoyed the most intimate +friendship and confidence of King Henry II. His magnificence and authority +during this period of his career exceeded that of the most powerful +nobles, and created much sensation in France whither he was dispatched to +demand the hand of the Princess Margaret for the king’s infant son. When +offered the Archbishopric of Canterbury he is said to have warned the king +that his acceptance of the office would entail his devotion to God and his +order in preference to the interests of the king. He was however persuaded +to accept the primacy, and after being duly ordained priest was +consecrated archbishop by Henry of Blois, the Bishop of Winchester.</p> + +<p>From this moment onwards the entire character and attitude of Becket was +changed. He gave up his old pomp and magnificence and devoted himself to +monastic severity and works of charity: he furthermore insisted on +resigning his temporal offices, including that of chancellor, and engaged +on his lifelong struggle with the king on the subject of the privileges of +the clergy.</p> + +<p>Since the separation of the bishops from the secular courts by the +Conqueror, a gross system of abuse had arisen under which all persons who +could read and write could claim exemption from the jurisdiction of the +ordinary secular courts, and insist on being tried only before their own +ecclesiastical tribunal. The spiritual courts could inflict no corporal +punishment, and the result was that many guilty persons escaped punishment +at their hands, and the benefit of clergy came to mean a practical licence +to commit crimes. This was naturally in radical opposition to the judicial +policy of Henry II., and matters were brought to a climax by the +scandalous case of Philip Brois, a murderer, whom Becket rescued from the +king’s<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 111]</span> justice and condemned to a totally inadequate sentence. The king +determined to clear the question of all doubt, and to this end drew up the +famous constitutions of Clarendon in which the clergy was subjected +equally with the laity to the common laws of the land. The archbishop took +the oath, but refused to sign the constitution, as he insisted on the +immunity of the clergy from all secular jurisdiction. On retiring from the +council he sought and obtained absolution from his oath at the hands of +the pope—Alexander III.—who, insecure in his own position, and unable to +dispense with the friendship of the King of England, maintained a +vacillating attitude in the quarrel between Becket and Henry. The king now +began a systematic persecution of the archbishop. He was pressed with +various charges, and finally was ordered to account for the moneys which +he had received from the vacant See of Canterbury and other ecclesiastical +properties in his capacity as Chancellor. There seems small reason to +doubt that the charge was an unjust one, and was merely employed by the +king as an instrument of offence against his political adversary. The +archbishop came before the council in all the pomp and panoply of his +office, and bearing his own cross, as he had been deserted by most of his +bishops. After an exciting scene he escaped before any definite judgment +was pronounced, and took refuge in France, where he was hospitably and +honourably received by King Louis VII. Here he continued his struggle with +the King of England. Henry seized upon the revenues of the See of +Canterbury, and banished all Becket’s kinsmen, dependants, and friends. +Becket replied by solemnly denouncing the constitution of Clarendon, and +excommunicating all who should enforce them. After further contentions and +fruitless negotiations Henry issued a proclamation withdrawing his +subjects’ obedience to the archbishop, enforced by an oath from all +freemen. This oath many of the bishops refused to take. The pope, under +temporary pressure from Becket’s enemies, authorized the Archbishop of +York to crown the young prince Henry: and the supremacy of the See of +Canterbury over all England, being thus called in question, became +thenceforward one of the principal subjects of dispute between Becket and +the king. The action of the king was unpopular, and Henry, seeing that he +had gone too far, consented to enter on some sort of reconciliation with +Becket, who ventured to return to England. In<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 112]</span> spite of the manifest +danger in which he found himself, Becket, on his return to England, +continued his high-handed policy, excommunicating the Archbishop of York +and others of his enemies. On hearing of this conduct Henry’s fury got the +better of him, and his famous exclamation led to the departure of the four +knights to Canterbury. They demanded the immediate removal of the +excommunication. Becket was hurried into the cathedral by the monks and +murdered at the altar.</p> + +<p>On his death he was immediately canonized, and many miracles occurred at +his tomb. Henry himself was ordered to do penance for his death. The fame +of his shrine brought countless pilgrims to Canterbury, which was thus for +the first time raised to a position of importance throughout the whole of +Europe.</p> + +<p><strong>Richard</strong> (1174-1184), Prior of Dover, was the next archbishop: he had been +present at Becket’s murder and helped to convey his body to the crypt. He +was somewhat indifferent to spiritual matters, and was chiefly occupied in +supporting the supremacy of the See of Canterbury over that of York, a +question which led to at least one scene of unseemly disturbance in which +the Archbishop of York nearly lost his life. One result of the quarrel was +the conferring of the title of “Primate of England,” and “Primate of all +England,” on the Archbishops of York and Canterbury respectively, by the +pope.</p> + +<p><strong>Baldwin</strong> (1185-1190) was the first monk of the Cistercian order who held +the See of Canterbury. He came into collision with the Benedictine monks +with whom the election to the primacy had always rested, and whom he +attempted in vain to deprive of that privilege in favour of a body of +canons at Lambeth, which he purchased for the see. He accompanied Richard +Cœur de Lion to the Holy Land, and died in camp before Acre.</p> + +<p><strong>Reginald Fitz Jocelyn</strong>, Bishop of Bath and Wells, was next elected, but +died before receiving the pall.</p> + +<p><strong>Hubert Walter</strong> (1193-1205) was born at West Derham, in Norfolk, and +educated by Ranulph de Glanville: he was made Bishop of Salisbury, and +accompanied Richard I. to the Holy Land. When archbishop he held the +office of Justiciary, but was removed from the latter by a Papal Bull +since it compelled him to judge “causes of blood.” He became chancellor, +and conducted the duties of his high offices in<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 113]</span> an admirable manner. The +laws enacted under Richard I. are said to have been drawn up by him, and +he completed the house of regular canons at Lambeth. He was buried in his +own cathedral where his effigy still remains.</p> + +<p>After some disputes on the subject of election, the Pope, Innocent III., +was appealed to and decided in favour of</p> + +<p><strong>Stephen Langton</strong> (1207-1228) who was an Englishman of spotless character +and profound theological learning: he was consecrated at Peterborough by +Innocent III. The “fury of King John knew no bounds,” he drove the monks +of Canterbury to Flanders, and refused to allow Langton to set foot in +England. The result of this conduct was the publication of the celebrated +Interdict, followed soon after by the personal excommunication of the king +and the absolution of his subjects from their oath of allegiance by the +pope. Philip of France was ordered to depose the English king, whose crown +was declared forfeited. Hard pressed by his enemies, and having alienated +his people from his cause, King John was driven to humiliating submission: +he promised to receive Langton and to restore the Church property, and +finally, formally resigned his crown into the hands of Pandulph, the Papal +Legate. Archbishop Langton was received with honour, and King John threw +himself at his feet and reconciled himself with the Church. He also +ordered a great council to meet at St. Alban’s to settle finally the +restitution of the church property. Here, however, he was met by an open +declaration of the complaints of all classes. Langton, though elevated to +the primacy, entirely through the influence of the pope, proved himself a +staunch Englishman, and posed as the champion of national liberty against +the claims of both pope and king. It was he who produced to the +malcontents the Coronation Charter of Henry I., which the barons accepted +as a declaration of the views and demands of their party. He was at the +head of the barons in their struggle with the king, and his name appears +as that of the first witness to the famous Magna Charta. John at once +applied to the pope, and obtained from him the abrogation of the charter +and a papal order to Langton to excommunicate the king’s enemies. This he +refused to do. John overran the country with foreign mercenaries, and his +cruelties eventually resulted in the barons summoning Louis of France to +their assistance. Langton was summoned to Rome to attend the<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 114]</span> Lateran +Council, and was detained there until the deaths of Innocent III. and King +John, after which he was permitted to return to his see and passed the +remainder of his life in comparative tranquillity, siding strongly with +the national party under Hubert de Burgh. He presided at the translation +of Becket’s remains from the crypt to Trinity Chapel; he rebuilt much of +the archiepiscopal palace at Canterbury and he lies buried in his own +cathedral. He was the first who divided the Bible into chapters.</p> + +<p><strong>Richard de Wethershed</strong> (1229-1231), Chancellor of Lincoln, was next +appointed, but died on his way back from Italy. After three more elections +by the monks which were all set aside by the pope, Honorius III., the +monks consented to accept</p> + +<p><strong>Edmund Rich</strong> (1234-1240), treasurer of Salisbury: he was the son of a +merchant of Abingdon, and was educated at Oxford University. He had a +great reputation for learning and piety. He came into disfavour with the +king by his opposition to the marriage of his sister Eleanor to Simon de +Montfort. His sympathies were all on the side of the national party: he +procured the downfall of Des Roches and maintained the struggle against +the foreign favourites and papal exactions for which the reign of Henry +III. is notorious. At length he retired to the Cistercian Abbey at +Pontigny, which had formerly sheltered Becket and Langton, in despair at +the condition of England and of her Church. It was during his time that +the great movements of the Dominican and Franciscan friars reached England +and though the archbishop never actually joined their ranks, he was +doubtless much influenced by their teaching and example, and was himself +an itinerant preacher after leaving Oxford. He was canonized six years +after his death. He was succeeded by</p> + +<p><strong>Boniface of Savoy</strong> (1241-1270), one of the king’s uncles, whose violence +and warlike bearing made him a strange contrast to his predecessor. His +term of office was one long history of papal exactions from the English +clergy, and of the tyranny of foreigners, creatures of Henry III., over +the rights of the nation. The revenues of the See of Canterbury and the +enormous sums wrung from the clergy were squandered on foreign wars, and +the archbishop himself resided abroad. Boniface took a leading part in the +spoliation of the English Church:<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 115]</span> he was one of the king’s council at the +so-called “Mad Parliament.”</p> + +<p><strong>Robert Kilwardby</strong> (1273-1278) was nominated by the pope, after a fruitless +election of their subprior by the monks. He was a very learned Dominican, +educated at Oxford and Paris.</p> + +<p><strong>John Peckam</strong> (1279-1292) was, like his predecessor, nominated by the pope +after an education at Oxford and Paris; he also was a Franciscan. He was +at first a staunch supporter of King Edward I., whom he accompanied to +Wales. It is to be regretted that he supported the king in his cruelties +to the conquered Welsh and in the expulsion of the Jews. He firmly +defended the privileges of his see against first, the Archbishop of York, +and secondly, the king. It was in his time (1279) that the famous Statute +of Mortmain was passed. The exactions of the papacy had been considerably +lessened, and the Church was beginning to recover its wealth and national +character. Peckam died at Mortlake, and was buried in the transept of the +martyrdom at Canterbury, where his tomb and effigy still remain.</p> + +<p><strong>Robert Winchelsea</strong> (1292-1313) was next nominated, king and clergy being +unanimous on this occasion, and at once proceeded to Rome, where he +remained some time before returning to England. Meanwhile, Edward I. had +demanded the enormous subsidy of one half their annual revenue from the +clergy. Winchelsea is said to have been responsible for the celebrated +Bull <em>Clericis laicis</em> issued by Boniface VIII. in defence of the property +of the Church. On his return home the archbishop continued to lead the +clergy in their opposition to the king’s demands, and paid the penalty in +the seizure of his whole estate for the king’s use. He retired with a +single chaplain to a country parsonage, discharged the humble duties of a +priest, and lived on the alms of his flocks. When the war broke out Edward +sought to propitiate the clergy by restoring the archbishop to his barony, +and summoning him to a parliament at Westminster, where the clergy +abandoned their own ground of ecclesiastical immunity from taxation and +took shelter under the liberties of the realm, thus identifying themselves +with the popular cause in their opposition to the exactions of the king. +On his return from Flanders Edward accused Winchelsea of conspiring +against him in his<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 116]</span> absence, and the archbishop was again deprived of all +his possessions, and, after many privations, escaped to France.</p> + +<p>On the accession of Edward II. he was recalled and restored to his honour, +but subsequently became again the centre of revolution, and himself +excommunicated the king’s favourite, Gaveston. He nevertheless continued +undisturbed in the discharge of his office until his death. During his +prosperous years Winchelsea was famous for his charities and liberality. +After his death he was regarded as a saint, and his shrine in the +south-east transept was removed by the commissioners of Henry VIII. at the +same time as that of Saint Thomas à Becket.</p> + +<p><strong>Walter Reynolds</strong> (1313-1327) was appointed by the pope at the request of +the king, who had set aside an election of the monks. He was tutor and +subsequently Chancellor to Edward II. After Gaveston’s death he became +Keeper of the Great Seal. He obtained many bulls of privilege from Rome. +In spite of the favour he had received from Edward II. he deserted him in +his troubles. His tomb remains in the south aisle of the choir.</p> + +<p><strong>Simon Mepeham</strong> (1328-1333) was elected by the monks and consecrated at +Avignon. He was opposed in his visitation by Grandisson, the powerful +Bishop of Exeter, who refused him admission to his cathedral by force. He +was unsupported by the pope, and is said to have died of a broken heart in +consequence. His tomb forms the screen of St. Anselm’s Chapel.</p> + +<p><strong>John Stratford</strong> (1333-1348) was appointed by the pope at the request of +Edward III. He was educated at Merton College, Oxford, and became +Archdeacon of Lincoln and Bishop of Winchester. He was made Lord Treasurer +by Edward II., to whose cause he remained faithful during the short-lived +triumph of Isabella and the desertion of the archbishop. Edward III. made +him Lord Chancellor, in which office he was succeeded by his own brother, +Robert. Stratford had endeavoured to dissuade the king from entering on +the French war, and the king, hard pressed for money, had the archbishop +arraigned for high treason. Stratford fled from Lambeth to Canterbury, +where he excommunicated his accusers. He subsequently returned to London +and sheltered himself, not under his ecclesiastical immunity, but under +his<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 117]</span> privileges of parliament as a member of the House of Peers, a +significant landmark in the history of the English Church. The quarrel +between the king and the archbishop was amicably settled.</p> + +<p>Stratford held exalted opinions on the subject of clerical superiority, +and his arraignment, without the support of the pope, was a decisive blow +against the power of the Church. In his time, also, a layman was for the +first time appointed to the office of Chancellor, and Edward III. wrote a +letter to the pope protesting against the frequent papal nominations to +vacant English sees, which was followed up by the Statute of Provisors in +1350. Stratford died at Mayfield in Sussex, and was buried in his own +cathedral, where his monument still remains.</p> + +<p><strong>Thomas Bradwardine</strong> (1349) was consecrated after election by the monks of +Christ Church after the death of John Ufford, the king’s nominee, who died +of the Black Death before consecration. Bradwardine had been the king’s +confessor. He was educated at Merton College, and was one of the best +geometers of his time, besides being the author of an important tract +against Pelagianism.</p> + +<p><strong>Simon Islip</strong> (1349-1366), the king’s secretary, built most of the palace at +Mayfield, and completed that at Maidstone. He founded and endowed +Canterbury Hall, now forming one of the quadrangles of Christ Church, +Oxford, in which he endeavoured to bring together the monastic and secular +priests.</p> + +<p><strong>Simon Langham</strong> (1366-1368) had been Bishop of Ely, Treasurer of England, +and Lord Chancellor, and also Prior and Abbot of Westminster. On being +appointed a cardinal by the Pope Urban V., he resigned his archbishopric, +the temporal powers and revenues of which had been seized by the king, and +died at Avignon.</p> + +<p><strong>William Whittlesea</strong> (1368-1374), a nephew of Islip, was translated from +Worcester.</p> + +<p><strong>Simon of Sudbury</strong> (1375-1381) was Chancellor of Salisbury and Bishop of +London, whence he was transferred to Canterbury. As chancellor he proposed +the famous poll tax, which supplied the motive for Wat Tyler’s rebellion, +and, as archbishop, caused to be imprisoned the priest, John Ball. He was +captured in the tower, and beheaded during Wat Tyler’s rebellion; his body +was eventually removed to <span class='pagenum'>[Pg 118]</span>Canterbury, and buried in the south aisle of +the choir. He built the west gate at Canterbury, and a great part of the +city walls.</p> + +<p><strong>William Courtenay</strong> (1381-1396) was, like his predecessor, translated from +the See of London. In a synod he condemned twenty-four articles in the +writing of Wycliffe, who was unjustly held responsible for the recent +rebellion. Much persecution of Wycliffe’s followers ensued. Courtenay +succeeded in establishing his right to visit his province, although +opposed by the Bishops of Exeter and Salisbury. His monument adjoins that +of the Black Prince.</p> + +<p><strong>Thomas Arundel</strong> (1396-1414) was translated from the See of York. He was +involved in the conspiracy for which his brother, the Earl of Arundel, was +executed, and was himself exiled. He was restored after Bolingbroke’s +success, and received the abdication of Richard II. In 1400 the statute +<em>De haeretico comburendo</em> was enacted, and Arundel began to put it in +force against the Lollards. He condemned Sawtree, the first English +Protestant martyr, to be burnt, and took a prominent part in the attack +upon Sir John Oldcastle. In the parliament of 1407 he defended the clergy +against the attempts of the Commons to shift the burden of taxation upon +the wealth of the Church.</p> + +<p><strong>Henry Chichele</strong> (1414-1443) was educated at New College, Oxford. He became +successively Archdeacon of Dorset and of Salisbury, and Bishop of St. +David’s. He supported Henry V. in his unjust claim to the crown of France, +and promised large subsidies from the Church for its support. There is no +doubt that this was a successful attempt at diverting the popular +attention from threatened attempts on the wealth of the Church. He was +reproached by the Pope Martin V. with lack of zeal in the interests of the +papacy in not procuring the reversal of the statutes of provisors and of +præmunire by which, amongst others, the papal power was held in check in +England. Among his foundations are the colleges of St. Bernard (afterwards +St. John’s), and All Souls, at Oxford, and a library at Canterbury for the +monks of Christ Church. In his old age he was stricken with remorse for +his sin in instigating the French war, and applied to the pope for +permission to resign his see. Before a reply was received the archbishop +died, after holding the see for nearly thirty years, <span class='pagenum'>[Pg 119]</span>a longer time than +any of his predecessors. His tomb, constructed by himself during his +lifetime, is in the north aisle of the choir, and is kept in repair by the +Fellows of All Souls.</p> + +<p><strong>John Stafford</strong> (1443-1452), Bishop of Bath and Wells, was nominated by the +pope with the king’s consent on the recommendation of Chichele. He also +held the office of chancellor for ten years, but was undistinguished in +either office. He lies in the south aisle of the choir.</p> + +<p><strong>John Kemp</strong> (1452-1454), Archbishop of York, succeeded. He was educated at +Merton College, and was Archdeacon of Durham and Bishop of Rochester, +Chichester, and London. He died at an advanced age, after a very brief +primacy, and was buried in the north choir aisle.</p> + +<p><strong>Thomas Bourchier</strong> (1454-1486), Bishop of Ely, was next elected by the +monks. He was a great-grandson of Edward III. He was educated at Oxford, +of which university he became chancellor; he subsequently held the sees of +Worcester and Ely. His lot fell upon difficult times, and he endeavoured +to maintain a position of neutrality in the struggle between the two +Roses, and at last effected their union by performing the marriage of +Henry VII. with Elizabeth of York. He died soon after, and his tomb +remains at Canterbury. He was bishop for fifty-one years, out of which he +held the primacy for thirty-two years. He actively encouraged education, +and helped to introduce printing into this country.</p> + +<p><strong>John Morton</strong> (1486-1500) was, like his predecessor, translated from Ely. He +was educated at Balliol College. Richard of Gloucester, after making vain +overtures to him, removed him from his office and committed him to the +Tower, and afterwards to Brecknock Castle, whence he escaped and joined +the Earl of Richmond on the Continent. After Bosworth he was recalled, and +on Bourchier’s death was made archbishop. In 1493 he obtained a cardinal’s +hat. In 1487 he was made Lord Chancellor, and continued for thirteen +years, until his death, in this office and in the confidence of the king, +whom he assisted in his system for controlling the great feudal barons and +in the exaction of “benevolence.” His famous dilemma propounded to the +merchants was known as “Morton’s fork.” It was he who prevailed upon the +Pope to canonize Archbishop Anselm. His tomb, constructed during his +lifetime, may be seen in the crypt of his cathedral.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'>[Pg 120]</span> +<strong>Henry Dean</strong> (1501-1503) was translated from Salisbury; he held the Great +Seal, with the title of Lord Keeper, after the death of Morton.</p> + +<p><strong>William Warham</strong> (1503-1532) was born of a good Hampshire family, and +educated at Winchester and New College. He was sent to Burgundy on a +mission to protest against the support of Perkin Warbeck by the Duchess +Margaret. He held the offices of Lord Keeper, Lord Chancellor, Master of +the Rolls, and Bishop of London. He crowned King Henry VIII., and +protested from the first against his marriage with Catherine. He was a +great rival of Wolsey, and retired from the court until the fall of the +cardinal. In the disputes of the time he embraced the side of the old +religion, and gave some countenance to Elizabeth Barton, the Nun of Kent. +The last part of his life was devoted to the cares of his diocese and to +letters, which he cultivated diligently. He was a personal friend of +Erasmus, whom he induced to visit England. His tomb remains in the +Transept of the Martyrdom.</p> + +<p><strong>Thomas Cranmer</strong> (1533-1556) may be considered the first Protestant +archbishop. From the first he would only accept the archbishopric as +coming from the king without intervention of the pope. He was born of a +good family in Nottinghamshire, and was educated at Cambridge, where he +became fellow of Jesus. He was first brought to the king’s notice by his +suggestion that the question of Catherine’s divorce might be settled +without reference to the pope. The king set him to write on the subject, +and he was rewarded with the Archdeaconry of Taunton. In 1530 he +accompanied the Earl of Wiltshire to the papal court, and was there +offered preferment by the pope. He married the niece of Osiander, who had +himself written on the subject of the divorce. On Warham’s death he +succeeded him in the primacy, and returned to England. As archbishop, +Cranmer pronounced the divorce against Catherine and crowned Anne Boleyn, +and was sponsor to the Princess Elizabeth, whom he baptized. After Anne +Boleyn’s trial he pronounced her marriage void, and acted as her confessor +in the Tower. Throughout his primacy Cranmer actively supported the +reforming party. In 1539 he was one of the commissioners for inspecting +into the matter of religion. In 1545 he was accused of heresy by the +opposite<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 121]</span> party led by Gardiner, and would have fallen but for the support +of the king, who befriended Cranmer throughout his life, and sent for him +to attend his death-bed. Great changes had occurred at Canterbury. +Becket’s shrine had been destroyed, and a dean and twelve canons were +established in place of the old monastery of Christ Church, which was +dissolved. Under Henry’s will Cranmer was appointed one of the Regents of +the Kingdom and Executors of the Will, and it was he who crowned Edward +VI. who, like Elizabeth, was his godchild. Throughout the reign of Edward, +Cranmer earnestly supported the cause of the Reformation. The Six Articles +were repealed and the first Book of Common Prayer was issued. On the +death-bed of Edward, Cranmer signed the king’s will, in which he appointed +Lady Jane Grey his successor. On the accession of Queen Mary he was at +once ordered to appear before the council and within a month was committed +to the Tower. In November, 1553, he was pronounced guilty of high treason, +but was pardoned on this count, and it was decided to proceed against him +as a heretic. In 1554 he was sent to Oxford, with Latimer and Ridley, +where he remained two years in prison and was condemned as a heretic by +two successive commissions. After the death of Latimer and Ridley, Cranmer +was degraded and deprived. It was after this that, in the hopes of saving +his life, he made his famous recantation. He was brought into St. Mary’s, +and in his address to the people withdrew his recantation and declared +that his right hand which had signed it should be the first to burn. He +was hurried to the place of execution opposite Balliol College, and, when +the pyre was lighted, held his right hand in the flames till it was +consumed, and died, calling on the Lord Jesus to receive his spirit.</p> + +<p><strong>Reginald Pole</strong> (1556-1558) a near connection of Henry VIII. then succeeded. +He was born in Worcestershire and was educated by the Carthusians at Shene +and at Magdalen College, Oxford. He was early advanced to the Deanery of +Exeter and other preferments. On leaving Oxford he visited the +universities of France and Italy and returned to England in 1525. Henry +attempted in vain to secure Pole’s support on the divorce question, and on +the appearance of his book, “Pro Unitate Ecclesiastica,” he was sent for +by the king, and when he refused to come, an act of attainder was passed +against him.<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 122]</span> In 1537 Pole was induced to accept a cardinal’s hat. It is +said that he was most unwilling to do so on the ground that he +contemplated marrying the Princess Mary and seating himself on the English +throne. He took an active part in promoting the Pilgrimage of Grace and +the second rising in 1541. He remained in Italy until the death of Edward +VI. On the accession of Mary he returned to England as papal legate after +the question of his marriage with Mary had been again discussed and set +aside through the influence of the Emperor Charles V. On Cranmer’s +execution Pole was consecrated Archbishop of Canterbury. As legate he +absolved the Parliament and made a solemn entry into London. For the next +three years Pole was in sole management of the ecclesiastical affairs of +England, and was consenting to the persecutions which disgraced the reign +of Mary. He was at one time deprived of his legatine authority by Pope +Paul IV. who had wished for the elevation of Gardiner to the primacy. The +archbishop submitted to the pope and was again appointed legate shortly +before his death which occurred about the same time as that of Mary. He +was buried in the corona at Canterbury, where his tomb yet remains. He was +the last Archbishop of Canterbury to be buried in his own cathedral, until +the recent interment of Dr. Benson.</p> + +<p><strong>Matthew Parker</strong> (1559-1575) was born of an old Norfolk family and educated +at Corpus Christi College, Cambridge. Wolsey invited him to become a +fellow of Christ Church, his new foundation at Oxford, but this he +declined. After various other offices he was appointed to the Deanery of +Lincoln by Edward VI. On the accession of Mary he was deprived of all his +offices as a married priest, and lived privately until the accession of +Elizabeth, who made him archbishop. He was duly elected by the new Chapter +of Canterbury, and held his post during a most difficult time with +marvellous tact and judgment. Religious toleration for its own sake was an +idea yet unknown, but Parker directed that great caution should be +observed in administering the oath of supremacy to those of the clergy who +still favoured the old religion. It is much to his credit that he managed +to preserve such good relations with the queen in face of Elizabeth’s +prejudice against the marriage of the clergy. He was an enlightened patron +of learning, and did much to encourage all branches of art.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'>[Pg 123]</span> +<strong>Edmund Grindall</strong> (1576-1583) was born at St. Bees and educated at +Cambridge, where he became Master of Pembroke Hall. He was Chaplain to +Edward VI. During the troubles of Mary’s reign he lived in Germany, and on +Elizabeth’s accession became the first Protestant Bishop of London. Thence +he was removed to York and in 1575 was appointed as archbishop. He was +inclined to view the Puritans with more leniency than his predecessor and +always refused to forbid the prophesyings, or meetings of the clergy for +discussing the meaning of scripture, which Elizabeth disliked so much, and +was in consequence deprived of his jurisdiction. He went blind before his +death and was buried at Croydon.</p> + +<p><strong>John Whitgift</strong> (1583-1604) was born at Great Grimsby and educated at +Cambridge, where John Bradford was his tutor: he became one of Elizabeth’s +chaplains and Master of Pembroke Hall and of Trinity. He wrote an answer +to Cartwright’s “Admonition” and was preferred to the Deanery of Lincoln +and Bishopric of Worcester. After Grindall’s death he was translated to +Canterbury. From this date his severity towards the Puritans increased. He +insisted that every minister of the Church should subscribe to three +points: the queen’s supremacy, the Common Prayer, and the Thirty-nine +Articles, and enforced his principle with much vigour, contrary to the +advice of the more enlightened Lord Burleigh. The severity of these +measures called into existence the “Martin Marprelate” libels and produced +much dissatisfaction and suffering among the more Puritanical clergy, +which was by no means lessened by the accession of James, who, on his way +to London rejected a petition signed by more than one thousand Puritan +ministers. Whitgift was buried at Croydon where he founded a school and +hospital.</p> + +<p><strong>Richard Bancroft</strong> (1604-1610) was born near Manchester and educated at +Jesus College, Oxford. He became one of Elizabeth’s chaplains, and Bishop +of London, whence he was translated to Canterbury. He was even more severe +than his predecessor against the Puritans, and was a most stern champion +of conformity. He advocated the king’s absolute power beyond the law and +attempted to establish episcopacy in Scotland. He died at Lambeth and was +buried in the parish church there.</p> + +<p><strong>George Abbot</strong> (1610-1633) was born at Guildford and<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 124]</span> +educated at Balliol +College. He assisted in establishing union between the Scotch and English +Churches and was rewarded with the Bishopric of Lichfield and Coventry. +Thence he was translated to London, and on the death of Bancroft was +appointed to the primacy. In contrast to his predecessor he connived at +some irregularities of discipline in the Puritanical clergy. At the same +time he was a zealous Calvinist and hater of popery, and disapproved of +those who preached up the arbitrary power of the king. These latter views +rendered him unpopular with the courtiers and the party of Laud. The +accidental death of a keeper at the hands of the archbishop was utilized +against him by his enemies and he was with difficulty restored to his +archiepiscopal functions. On refusing to licence a sermon by Dr. +Sibthorpe, asserting the king’s right to tax his subjects without their +consent, he was obliged to retire to his palace of Ford, near Canterbury. +He assisted at the coronation of Charles I., but never managed to win the +favour of that monarch. He died at Croydon, and was buried at Guildford, +where his tomb and effigy still remain.</p> + +<p><strong>William Laud</strong> (1633-1645) was born at Reading, and educated at St. John’s +College, Oxford. At the university he soon became conspicuous for his +hatred of the Puritans and his devotion to High Church doctrines. He +became President of St. John’s in spite of the opposition of Archbishop +Abbot. He became successively one of the royal chaplains, Dean of +Gloucester, Bishop of St. David’s, Bath and Wells, and London. He acted as +Dean of Westminster at Charles I.’s coronation. He was made Dean of the +Chapel Royal, Chancellor of Oxford, and a Privy Councillor of Scotland. On +Abbot’s death he was elevated to the primacy, and is said to have refused +the offer of a cardinal’s hat. As archbishop he was responsible for the +general Church persecution which produced his own unpopularity and +downfall, and was one of the main causes of the Civil War. Prosecutions +for non-conformity were enforced with the utmost severity. The courts of +Star Chamber and High Commission were brought to bear on the Puritans, and +Laud became universally detested. The superiority of the king over the law +was openly preached, and the Irish and Scotch Puritans were alienated by +the severity of the measures taken against them. On the common idea of +popular government, the Puritans were driven into coalition and +identification with the<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 125]</span> national party, while the king, court, bishops, +and judges represented the High Church movement and the doctrine of the +king’s absolute authority. In 1639 the palace at Lambeth was attacked, but +the archbishop was removed to Whitehall and escaped for the time. In 1640, +however, he was impeached for high treason, and confined in the Tower. +Various charges were brought against him and fines inflicted, and his +property was seized and sold or destroyed for the use of the commonwealth. +The charge of high treason could not be legally established, and a bill of +attainder was passed against him in 1645. He was eventually beheaded on +Tower Hill, at the age of seventy-one years; his remains were interred at +Barking, but subsequently removed to the chapel of St. John’s College at +Oxford. His conduct has been differently judged by his friends and +enemies. He built the greater part of the inner quadrangle of St. John’s, +and presented a large collection of important manuscripts to the +university. In his time the archiepiscopal palace at Canterbury was ruined +by the Puritans, and on the Restoration an Act was passed dispensing the +archbishops from restoring it. From this time they have had no official +residence in Canterbury.</p> + +<p><strong>William Juxon</strong> (1660-1663) was born at Chichester, and educated, like his +predecessor, at St. John’s College, Oxford, where he attracted the +attention of Laud. He became successively President of St. John’s, Dean of +Worcester, Bishop of Hereford, and Bishop of London. He also became Lord +Treasurer, a post which had been held by no churchman since the days of +Henry VII., and was the last instance of any of the great offices of State +being filled by an ecclesiastic. He attended Charles I. on the occasion of +his execution. On the Restoration he became Archbishop of Canterbury, and +died three years afterwards. He lies in the chapel of St. John’s College.</p> + +<p><strong>Gilbert Sheldon</strong> (1663-1677) was educated at Oxford, and became Fellow and +Warden of All Souls’ College. He was a strong supporter of the king during +the Civil War. He was deprived of his wardenship and imprisoned by the +Parliamentarian commissioners when they visited Oxford. He retired to +Derbyshire until the Restoration, when he was restored to his wardenship; +he was made Dean of the Chapel Royal, and succeeded Juxon in the See of +London. In 1661 he assisted at the discussion of the liturgy between the +Presbyterian and Episcopal<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 126]</span> divines known as the Savoy Conference. In 1663 +he succeeded Juxon in the primacy, and in 1667 was elected Chancellor of +Oxford. He built the Sheldonian Theatre at Oxford, which building is an +early work of Sir Christopher Wren’s. He offended the court party by his +open disapproval of the king’s morals, and retired in 1669 to his palace +at Croydon, where he spent most of the remainder of his life. He was +buried at the parish church at Croydon, where his tomb and effigy still +remain.</p> + +<p><strong>William Sancroft</strong> (1678-1691) was born at Fresingfield, in Suffolk, and +educated at St. Edmundsbury and at Cambridge, where he became Fellow of +Emmanuel College. He was deprived of his fellowship in 1649, and retired +to the Continent, where he remained until the restoration of Charles II. +He then returned to England, and subsequently became Master of Emmanuel +College, and Dean of York, and of St. Paul’s, and Archdeacon of +Canterbury, and was raised to the primacy by Charles II., whose death-bed +he attended. In the reign of James he was at the head of the seven bishops +who presented the famous petition against the Declaration of Indulgence, +for which they were committed to the Tower, tried, and acquitted amidst +immense popular excitement. After James’s flight, Sancroft acted as the +head of the council of peers who took upon themselves the administration +of the government of the country. His plan was to retain James nominally +on the throne, while placing the reins of government in the hands of a +regent. He refused to take the oath of allegiance to William and Mary, +considering himself bound by his former oath to James II. He was +accordingly suspended and deprived, and when ejected by law from Lambeth +he retired to his small ancestral property at Fresingfield, where he died +and was buried.</p> + +<p><strong>John Tillotson</strong> (1691-1694) was born of Puritan parents at Sowerby, in +Yorkshire, and was educated at Cambridge. During the Protectorate he had +followed the teachings of the Presbyterians, but on the Restoration he +submitted to the Act of Uniformity. He held among other posts those of +Preacher at Lincoln’s Inn and Dean of Canterbury, and enjoyed the intimate +confidence of William and Mary. On the deprivation of Sancroft he was +reluctantly induced to accept the primacy, which he was destined to hold +only for some three years. He<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 127]</span> died at Lambeth after this short term of +office, and was buried in the Church of St. Lawrence, Jewry. As a +theologian Tillotson was remarkable for his latitudinarianism, and he was +one of the finest preachers who have ever lived.</p> + +<p><strong>Thomas Tenison</strong> was born at Cottenham, in Cambridgeshire, and educated at +Cambridge. His fame as a preacher procured him the Archdeaconry of London +and the Bishopric of Lincoln, in which diocese he did admirable work. He +died at Lambeth, and lies buried in the parish church there.</p> + +<p><strong>William Wake</strong> (1716-1737) was educated at Christ Church, Oxford, and became +Dean of Exeter and Bishop of Lincoln. He was gifted with great learning, +and took an active part in the controversy with Atterbury on the subject +of the rights of convocation.</p> + +<p><strong>John Potter</strong> (1737-1747) was the son of a linendraper at Wakefield, in +Yorkshire, and was educated at University College, Oxford, becoming Fellow +of Lincoln and afterwards Bishop of Oxford. He was a learned divine and +writer. Like his predecessor he was buried in the parish church at +Croydon.</p> + +<p><strong>Thomas Herring</strong> (1747-1757) and</p> + +<p><strong>Matthew Hutton</strong> (1757-1758) were both translated to Canterbury from York.</p> + +<p><strong>Thomas Secker</strong> (1758-1768) was born of dissenting parents near Newark. At +the instance of Butler, afterwards the famous Bishop of Durham, he joined +the Church of England and abandoned the study of medicine, and took holy +orders. He held many posts in succession, including the Bishoprics of +Bristol and Oxford. He died and was buried at Lambeth, where his portrait, +by Sir Joshua Reynolds, still remains.</p> + +<p><strong>Frederick Cornwallis</strong> (1768-1783) was the seventh son of Charles, 4th Lord +Cornwallis. He was consecrated Bishop of Lichfield and Coventry in 1750, +and in 1766 became Dean of St. Paul’s. On October 6th, 1768, he was +enthroned Archbishop of Canterbury. In Hasted’s “Kent” we find him +commended highly for having abolished that “disagreeable distinction of +his chaplains dining at a separate table.” More renowned for his +affability and courteous behaviour than for learning, he entertained at +times with semi-regal state; but once fell into some disfavour because +“his lady was in the habit of holding <em>routs</em> on Sundays.”</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'>[Pg 128]</span> +<strong>John Moore</strong> (1783-1805) became Dean of Canterbury in 1771. He was +consecrated Bishop of Bangor in 1775, and thence translated to the +archiepiscopal see in 1783. Although a promoter of Sunday-schools and +foreign missions, he did not escape reproach for paying undue regard to +the interests of his family. It has been well said that during his tenure +of office and that of his immediate successor, the sinecures and +pluralities held by the highest clergy were worthy of the mediæval period.</p> + +<p><strong>Charles Manners-Sutton</strong> (1805-1828) was grandson of John, 3rd Duke of +Rutland. In 1791 he was made Dean of Peterborough, and Bishop of Norwich +in 1792. In 1794 he was appointed Dean of Windsor, and became Archbishop +of Canterbury in 1805 owing to Court influence, which outweighed the +hostility of Pitt, who wished to appoint his own nominee. As a prelate he +was distinguished for many virtues and qualities befitting his office. He +was president at the foundation of the National Society, and worked +strenuously to advance the cause of education which it represents. While +he held the primacy a fund which had been accumulated from the sale of +Croydon Palace was applied to the purchase of Addington, where he lies +buried.</p> + +<p><strong>William Howley</strong> (1828-1848) was tutor to the Prince of Orange (afterwards +William II. of Holland) then successively Regius Professor of Divinity of +Oxford, Bishop of London, 1813, and archbishop, 1823. He played a prominent +part in politics and state ceremonials and marked the transition between +the new <em>régime</em>, and the old princely days of the archbishoprics.</p> + +<p><strong>John Bird Sumner</strong> (1848-1862) was brother of Dr. C. Sumner, Bishop of +Winchester. In 1823 he was appointed Bishop of Chester, and in 1848 was +promoted to the See of Canterbury. He published a large number of works, +and by his activity and simplicity of life is “remembered everywhere as +realizing that ideal of the Apostolic ministry which he had traced in his +earliest and most popular work.”<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p> + +<p><strong>Charles Thomas Longley</strong> (1862-1868) was the son of a Recorder of Rochester. +In 1836 he was consecrated the first bishop of the newly founded See of +Ripon, translated to Durham<span class='pagenum'>[Pg 129]</span> in 1856, became Archbishop of York in 1860, +and in 1862 was transferred to Canterbury. Perhaps the most memorable +incidents in a memorable career are the Pan-Anglican Synod held at Lambeth +in 1867, and his establishment of the Diocesan Society for Church +Building.</p> + +<p><strong>Archibald Campbell Tait</strong> (1868-1882) was son of Craufurd Tait, Esq., a +Scots attorney. He succeeded Arnold as Master of Rugby in 1842, and became +Dean of Carlisle in 1850. He presided over the Pan-Anglican Synod in 1867, +and in 1868 succeeded to the archbishopric. “Memorials of Catherine and +Craufurd Tait” is a book so well known that even the barest sketch of his +career here would be superfluous.</p> + +<p><strong>Edward White Benson</strong> (1882-1896), son of Edward White Benson, Esq., of +Birmingham Heath, was a master of Rugby. He was Head Master of Wellington +from 1858 to 1872, Prebendary and Chancellor of Lincoln in 1872, was +consecrated the first bishop of the newly created See of Truro in 1877, +and translated to Canterbury in 1883. He was buried in the Cathedral on +October 16th, 1896, in a secluded corner of the north aisle, immediately +under the north-west tower, the first archbishop who was interred in the +cathedral of the metropolitan see since Reginald Pole in 1558.</p> + +<p><strong>Frederick Temple</strong> (1896- ), the present archbishop, is son +of the late Major Octavius Temple. He was Head Master of Rugby, 1858 to +1869, consecrated the sixty-first Bishop of Exeter in 1869, translated to +London in 1885, and to Canterbury in 1896. His share in the famous “Essays +and Reviews,” and the many active works he has instituted, are too well +known to need comment.</p> + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'>[Pg 130]</span></p> + +<p><a name="PLANS" id="PLANS"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/img36.png"> +<img src="images/img36_th.png" width="400" height="585" alt="Plans1" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'>[Pg 131]</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/img37.png"> +<img src="images/img37_th.png" width="400" height="561" alt="Plan2" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<hr /> + +<div class="footnotes"><h2>FOOTNOTES:</h2> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Though it is also derived from one Dr. Omerus, who lived on +the spot in the thirteenth century.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> The above paintings are illustrated in Dart’s “History of +Canterbury,” 1726, and in “Archæologia Cantiana,” vol. xviii.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Diocesan Histories: “Canterbury,” by R.C. Jenkins, M.A. +1880.</p></div> + +</div> + +<hr style="width: 100%;" /> + +<h4>TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES</h4> +<ol><li>Full page photographs in the original text were sometimes placed so as to split paragraphs. These have +been moved to immediately before or after the paragraph that was split.</li> +<li>Some page numbers are missing, as there were often blank pages before or after full page photographs.</li> +<li>Obvious printer’s errors have been corrected without note.</li> +<li>Inconsistencies in hyphenation or the spelling of proper names, and dialect or obsolete word spelling, +has been maintained as in the original.</li> +</ol> + +<hr style="width: 100%;" /> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Cathedral Church of Canterbury +[2nd ed.]., by Hartley Withers + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF CANTERBURY *** + +***** This file should be named 22832-h.htm or 22832-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/2/8/3/22832/ + +Produced by Jonathan Ingram, Anne Storer and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Cathedral Church of Canterbury [2nd ed.]. + +Author: Hartley Withers + +Release Date: October 2, 2007 [EBook #22832] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF CANTERBURY *** + + + + +Produced by Jonathan Ingram, Anne Storer and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +[Illustration: CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL FROM THE SOUTH.] + + + + + THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF + CANTERBURY + + A DESCRIPTION OF ITS FABRIC + AND A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE + ARCHIEPISCOPAL SEE + + BY HARTLEY WITHERS, B.A. + + [Illustration: Arms of Canterbury.] + + LONDON GEORGE BELL & SONS 1897 + + + _First Edition December, 1896._ +_Second Edition, Revised, with many Additional Illustrations, May, 1897._ + + * * * * * + + + + +GENERAL PREFACE. + + +This series of monographs has been planned to supply visitors to the great +English Cathedrals with accurate and well illustrated guide books at a +popular price. The aim of each writer has been to produce a work compiled +with sufficient knowledge and scholarship to be of value to the student of +archaeology and history, and yet not too technical in language for the use +of an ordinary visitor or tourist. + +To specify all the authorities which have been made use of in each case +would be difficult and tedious in this place. But amongst the general +sources of information which have been almost invariably found useful +are:--firstly, the great county histories, the value of which, especially +in questions of genealogy and local records, is generally recognized; +secondly, the numerous papers by experts which appear from time to time in +the transactions of the antiquarian and archaeological societies; thirdly, +the important documents made accessible in the series issued by the Master +of the Rolls; fourthly, the well-known works of Britton and Willis on the +English Cathedrals; and, lastly, the very excellent series of Handbooks to +the Cathedrals, originated by the late Mr. John Murray, to which the +reader may in most cases be referred for fuller detail, especially in +reference to the histories of the respective sees. + + GLEESON WHITE. + E.F. STRANGE. + _Editors of the Series._ + + * * * * * + + + + +PREFACE. + + +Among authorities consulted in the preparation of this volume, the author +desires to name specially Prof. Willis's "Architectural History of +Canterbury Cathedral" (1845), Dean Stanley's "Historical Memorials of +Canterbury" (Murray, 1855, and fifth edition, 1868), "Canterbury," by the +Rev. R.C. Jenkins (1880), and the excellent section devoted to Canterbury +in Murray's "Handbooks to the English Cathedrals, Southern Division," +wherein Mr. Richard John King brought together so much valuable matter, +to which reference has been made too often to be acknowledged in each +instance. For permission to use this the publishers have to thank Mr. John +Murray. + +For the reproduction of the drawings of the various parts of the +Cathedral, and the arms on the title page, by Mr. Walter Tallent Owen, +the editors are greatly indebted to the artist, from whose volume, "Bits +of Canterbury Cathedral," published by W.T. Comstock, New York, 1891, they +have been taken. Others are taken from Charles Wild's "Specimens of +Mediaeval Architecture," and from Carter's "Ancient Sculpture and +Paintings." + +The illustrations from photographs in this volume have been reproduced +from the originals by Messrs. Carl Norman and Co. + + H.W. + + * * * * * + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + PAGE +CHAPTER I.--History of the Building 3 + +CHAPTER II.--Exterior and Precincts: + The Angel or Bell Tower 24 + The Monastery 32 + Christchurch Gate 35 + Ruins of the Infirmary 38 + The Treasury 38 + The Lavatory Tower 40 + The Chapter House 42 + The Library 44 + The Deanery 44 + The Green Court 48 + +CHAPTER III.--Interior: + The Nave 52 + The Central Tower 55 + The Western Screen 56 + The Choir 57 + The Altar 61 + The Choir 64 + The Choir Stalls 65 + South-East Transept 67 + South-West Choir Aisle 69 + St. Anselm's Tower and Chapel 69 + The Watching Chamber 72 + Trinity Chapel 72 + Tomb of the Black Prince 75 + Becket's Crown 88 + St. Andrew's Tower 90 + North-East Transept 90 + Chapel of the Martyrdom 92 + The Dean's Chapel 94 + South-West Transept 95 + St. Michael's Chapel 95 + The Main Crypt 96 + The Eastern Crypt 101 + +CHAPTER IV.--The History of the See 103 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS. + + + PAGE +The Cathedral from the South _Frontispiece_ +Arms of Canterbury _Title_ +The Cathedral from the North 1 +Plan of Canterbury Cathedral (_Circa 1165_) 4 +The Cloisters 19 +View on the Stour 22 +The Central Tower, "Bell Harry" 25 +Detail of St. Anselm's Tower 32 +The Christchurch Gate 33 +The South-West Porch of the Cathedral 36 +Cloisters of the Monks' Infirmary 37 +Ruins of the Monks' Infirmary 38 +The Baptistery Tower 39 +Turret of South-West Transept 41 +The Cloisters 43 +Norman Staircase in the Close 45 +Details of the Norman Staircase in the Close 46 +Details of Ornament 47 +Old Painting, "The Murder of St. Thomas a Becket" 51 +The Shrine of St. Thomas a Becket (from the Cottonian MS.) 52 +Capitals of Columns in the Eastern Apse 54 +The Choir--looking East 59 + Do. before Restoration 62 +A Miserere in the Choir 65 +Some Mosaics from the Floor of Trinity Chapel 73 +The Black Prince's Tomb 77 +Shield, Coat, etc., of the Black Prince 80 +West Gate 81 +Trinity Chapel, looking into Corona, "Becket's Crown" 88 +Chair of St. Augustine 89 +Transept of "The Martyrdom" 92 +Part of South-Western Transept 94 +The Crypt 97 + Do. St. Gabriel's Chapel 100 + Do. Cardinal Morton's Monument 101 +Plans of Cathedral at three periods 130 + + * * * * * + + +[Illustration: THE CATHEDRAL FROM THE NORTH +(FROM A PHOTOGRAPH BY CARL NORMAN AND CO.).] + + + + +CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +THE HISTORY OF THE BUILDING. + + +More than four hundred years passed by between the beginning of the +building of this cathedral by Archbishop Lanfranc (1070-1089) and its +completion, by the addition of the great central tower, at the end of the +fifteenth century. But before tracing the history of the construction of +the present well-known fabric, a few words will not be out of place +concerning the church which preceded it on the same site. A British or +Roman church, said to have been built by a certain mythical King Lucius, +was given to St. Augustine by Ethelbert in A.D. 597. It was designed, +broadly speaking, on the plan of the old Basilica of St. Peter at Rome, +but as to the latest date of any alterations, which may or may not have +been made by Augustine and his immediate successors, we have no accurate +information. It is, however, definitely stated that Archbishop Odo, who +held the see from A.D. 942-959, raised the walls and rebuilt the roof. In +the course of these alterations the church was roofless for three years, +and we are told that no rain fell within the precincts during this time. +In A.D. 1011 Canterbury was pillaged by the Danes, who carried off +Archbishop Alphege to Greenwich, butchered the monks, and did much damage +to the church. The building was, however, restored by Canute, who made +further atonement by hanging up his crown within its walls, and bringing +back the body of Alphege, who had been martyred by the Danes. In the year +1067 the storms of the Norman Conquest overwhelmed St. Augustine's church, +which was completely destroyed by fire, together with many royal deeds of +privilege and papal bulls, and other valuable documents. + +A description of the church thus destroyed is given by Prof. Willis, who +quotes all the ancient writers who mention it. The chief authority is +Eadmer, who was a boy at the monastery school when the Saxon church was +pulled down, and was afterwards a monk and "singer" in the cathedral. It +is he who tells us that it was arranged in some parts in imitation of the +church of St. Peter at Rome. Odo had translated the body of Wilfrid, +Archbishop of York, from Ripon to Canterbury, and had "worthily placed it +in a more lofty receptacle, to use his own words, that is to say, in the +great Altar which was constructed of rough stones and mortar, close to the +wall at the eastern part of the presbytery. Afterwards another altar was +placed at a convenient distance before the aforesaid altar.... In this +altar the blessed Elphege had solemnly deposited the head of St. Swithin +... and also many relics of other saints. To reach these altars, a certain +crypt which the Romans call a Confessionary had to be ascended by means of +several steps from the choir of the singers. This crypt was fabricated +beneath in the likeness of the confessionary of St. Peter, the vault of +which was raised so high that the part above could only be reached by many +steps." The resting-place of St. Dunstan was separated from the crypt +itself by a strong wall, for that most holy father was interred before the +aforesaid steps at a great depth in the ground, and at the head of the +saint stood the matutinal altar. Thence the choir of the singers was +extended westward into the body of the church.... In the next place, +beyond the middle of the length of the body there were two towers which +projected beyond the aisles of the church. The south tower had an altar in +the midst of it, which was dedicated in honour of the blessed Pope +Gregory.... Opposite to this tower and on the north, the other tower was +built in honour of the blessed Martin, and had about it cloisters for the +use of the monks.... The extremity of the church was adorned by the +oratory of Mary.... At its eastern part, there was an altar consecrated to +the worship of that Lady.... When the priest performed the Divine +mysteries at this altar he had his face turned to the east.... Behind him, +to the west, was the pontifical chair constructed with handsome +workmanship, and of large stones and cement, and far removed from the +Lord's table, being contiguous to the wall of the church which embraced +the entire area of the building. + +Lanfranc, the first Norman archbishop, was granted the see in 1070. He +quickly set about the task of building himself a cathedral. Making no +attempt to restore the old fabric, he even destroyed what was left of +the monastic building, and built up an entirely new church and monastery. +Seven years sufficed to complete his cathedral, which stood on the same +ground as the earlier fane. His work, however, was not long left +undisturbed. It had not stood for twenty years before the east end of the +church was pulled down during the Archiepiscopate of Anselm, and rebuilt +in a much more splendid style by Ernulph, the prior of the monastery. +Conrad, who succeeded Ernulph as prior, finished the choir, decorating it +with great magnificence, and, in the course of his reconstruction, nearly +doubling the area of the building. Thus completed anew, the cathedral was +dedicated by Archbishop William in A.D. 1130. At this notable ceremony the +kings of England and Scotland both assisted, as well as all the English +bishops. Forty years later this church was the scene of Thomas a Becket's +murder (A.D. 1170), and it was in Conrad's choir that the monks watched +over his body during the night after his death. + +Eadmer also gives some description of the church raised by Lanfranc. The +new archbishop, "filled with consternation" when he found that "the church +of the Saviour which he undertakes to rule was reduced to almost nothing +by fire and ruin," proceeded to "set about to destroy it utterly, and +erect a more noble one. And in the space of seven years he raised this new +church from the very foundations and rendered it nearly perfect.... +Archbishop Anselm, who succeeded Lanfranc, appointed Ernulf to be +prior.... Having taken down the eastern part of the church which Lanfranc +had built, he erected it so much more magnificently, that nothing like it +could be seen in England, either for the brilliancy of its glass windows, +the beauty of its marble pavement, or the many coloured pictures which led +the wondering eyes to the very summit of the ceiling." It was this part of +the church, however, that was completed by Ernulf's successor, Conrad, and +afterwards known as Conrad's choir. It appears that Anselm "allowed the +monks to manage their own affairs, and gave them for priors Ernulf, and +then Conrad, both monks of their own monastery. And thus it happened that, +in addition to the general prosperity and good order of their property, +which resulted from this freedom, they were enabled to enlarge their +church by all that part which stretches from the great tower to the east; +which work Anselm himself provided for," having "granted to the said +church the revenues of his town of Peckham, for seven years, the whole of +which were expended upon the new work." Prof. Willis, unable to account +for the haste with which the east end of Lanfranc's church was pulled +down, assumes that the monks "did not think their church large enough for +the importance of their monastery," and moreover wanted shrine-room for +the display of relics. The main body of Lanfranc's church was left +standing, and is described as follows by Gervase. "The tower, raised upon +great pillars, is placed in the midst of the church, like the centre in +the middle of a circle. It had on its apex a gilt cherub. On the west of +the tower is the nave of the church, supported on either side upon eight +pillars. Two lofty towers with gilded pinnacles terminate this nave or +aula. A gilded _corona_ hangs in the midst of the church. A screen with a +loft (_pulpitum_) separated in a manner the aforesaid tower from the nave, +and had in the middle and on the side towards the nave, the altar of the +holy cross. Above the _pulpitum_ and placed across the church, was the +beam, which sustained a great cross, two cherubim, and the images of St. +Mary and St. John the Apostle.... The great tower had a cross from each +side, to wit, a south cross and a north cross, each of which had in the +midst a strong pillar; this pillar sustained a vault which proceeded from +the walls on three of its sides," etc. Prof. Willis considers that as far +as these parts of the building are concerned, the present fabric stands +exactly on the site of Lanfranc's. "In the existing building," he says, +"it happens that the nave and transepts have been transformed into the +Perpendicular style of the fourteenth century, and the central tower +carried up to about double its original altitude in the same style. +Nevertheless indications may be detected that these changed parts stand +upon the old foundations of Lanfranc." + +The building, however, was not destined to remain long intact. In A.D. +1174 the whole of Conrad's choir was destroyed by a fire, which was +described fully by Gervase, a monk who witnessed it. He gives an +extraordinary account of the rage and grief of the people at the sight of +the burning cathedral. The work of rebuilding was immediately set on foot. +In September, 1174, one William of Sens, undertook the task, and wrought +thereat until 1178, when he was disabled by an unfortunate fall from a +scaffolding, and had to give up his charge and return to France. Another +William, an Englishman this time, took up the direction of the work, +and under his supervision the choir and eastern portion of the church +were finished in A.D. 1184. Further alterations were made under Prior +Chillenden at the end of the fourteenth century. Lanfranc's nave was +pulled down, and a new nave and transepts were constructed, leaving but +little of the original building set up by the first Norman archbishop. +Finally, about A.D. 1495, the cathedral was completed by the addition of +the great central tower. + +[Illustration: PLAN OF CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL, ABOUT A.D. 1165. + +From a Norman drawing inserted in the Great Psalter of Eadwin, in the +Library of Trinity College, Cambridge. First published in _Vetusta +Monumenta_ (Society of Antiquaries, 1755). For full description and a +plan of the waterworks see _Archaeologia Cantiana_, Vol. VII., 1868.] + +During the four centuries which passed during the construction and +reconstruction of the fabric, considerable changes had manifested +themselves in the science and art of architecture. Hence it is that +Canterbury Cathedral is a history, written in solid stone, of +architectural progress, illustrating in itself almost all the various +kinds of the style commonly called Pointed. Of these the earliest form of +Gothic and Perpendicular chiefly predominate. The shape and arrangement of +the building was doubtless largely influenced by the extraordinary number +of precious relics which it contained, and which had to be properly +displayed and fittingly enshrined. Augustine's church had possessed the +bodies of St. Blaize and St. Wilfrid, brought respectively from Rome and +from Ripon; of St. Dunstan, St. Alphege, and St. Ouen, as well as the +heads of St. Swithin and St. Furseus, and the arm of St. Bartholomew. +These were all carefully removed and placed, each in separate altars and +chapels, in Lanfranc's new cathedral. Here their number was added to by +the acquisition of new relics and sacred treasures as time went on, and +finally Canterbury enshrined its chiefest glory, the hallowed body of St. +Thomas a Becket, who was martyred within its walls. + +Since, owing to an almost incredible act of royal vindictiveness in A.D. +1538, Becket's glorious shrine belongs only to the history of the past, +some account of its splendours will not be out of place in this part of +our account of the cathedral. It stood on the site of the ancient chapel +of the Trinity, which was burnt down along with Conrad's choir in the +destructive fire of A.D. 1174. It was in this chapel that Thomas a Becket +had first solemnized mass after becoming archbishop. For this reason, as +we may fairly suppose, this position was chosen to enshrine the martyr's +bones, after the rebuilding of the injured portion of the fabric. Though +the shrine itself has been ruthlessly destroyed, a mosaic pavement, +similar to that which may be seen round the tomb of Edward the Confessor +in Westminster Abbey, marks the exact spot on which it stood. The mosaic +is of the kind with which the floors of the Roman basilicas were generally +adorned, and contains signs of the zodiacs and emblems of virtues and +vices. This pavement was directly in front of the west side of the shrine. +On each side of the site is a deep mark in the pavement running towards +the east. This indentation was certainly worn in the soft, pinkish marble +by the knees of generations of pilgrims, who prostrated themselves here +while the treasures were displayed to their gaze. In the roof above there +is fixed a crescent carved out of some foreign wood, which has proved +deeply puzzling to antiquaries. A suggestion, which hardly seems very +plausible, connects this mysterious crescent with the fact that Becket was +closely related, as patron, with the Hospital of St. John at Acre. It was +believed that his prayers had once repulsed the Saracens from the walls of +the fortress, and he received the title of St. Thomas Acrensis. Near this +crescent a number of iron staples were to be seen at one time, and it is +likely that a trophy of some sort depended from them. The Watching Tower +was set high upon the Tower of St. Anselm, on the south side of the +shrine. It contained a fireplace, so that the watchman might keep himself +warm during the winter nights, and from a gallery between the pillars he +commanded a view of the sacred spot and its treasures. A troop of fierce +ban-dogs shared the task of guarding the shrine from theft. How necessary +such precautions were is shown by the fact that such a spot had to be +guarded not only from common robbers in search of rich booty, but also +from holy men, who were quite unscrupulous in their desire to possess +themselves and their own churches of sacred relics. Within the first six +years after Becket's death we read of two striking instances of the +lengths to which distinguished churchmen were carried by what Dean Stanley +calls "the first frenzy of desire for the relics of St. Thomas." Benedict, +a monk of Christ Church, and "probably the most distinguished of his +body," was created Abbot of Peterburgh in A.D. 1176. Disappointed to find +that his cathedral was very poor in the matter of relics he returned to +Canterbury, "took away with him the flagstones immediately surrounding the +sacred spot, with which he formed two altars in the conventual church of +his new appointment, besides two vases of blood and parts of Becket's +clothing." Still more striking and characteristic of the prevalent passion +for relics is the story of Roger, who was keeper of the "Altars of the +Martyrdom," or "Custos Martyrii." The brothers of St. Augustine's Abbey +were so eager to obtain a share in the glory which their great rival, the +neighbouring cathedral, had won from the circumstances of Becket's +martyrdom within its walls, that they actually offered Roger no less a +reward than the position of abbot in their own institution, on condition +that he should purloin for them some part of the remains of the martyr's +skull. And not only did Roger, though he had been specially selected from +amongst the monks of Christ Church to watch over this very treasure, agree +to their conditions, and after duly carrying out this piece of +sacrilegious burglary become Abbot of St. Augustine's; but the chroniclers +of the abbey were not ashamed to boast of this transaction as an instance +of cleverness and well-applied zeal. + +The translation of Becket's remains from the tomb to his shrine took place +A.D. 1220, fifty years after his martyrdom. The young Henry III., who had +just laid the foundation of the new abbey at Westminster, assisted at the +ceremony. The primate then ruling at Canterbury was the great Stephen +Langton, who had won renown both as a scholar and a statesman. He had +carried out the division of the Bible into chapters, as it is now +arranged, and had won a decisive victory for English liberty by forcing +King John to sign the Great Charter. He was now advanced in years, and had +recently assisted at the coronation of King Henry at Westminster. + +The translation was carried out with imposing ceremony. The scene must +have been one of surpassing splendour; never had such an assemblage been +gathered together in England. Robert of Gloucester relates that not only +Canterbury but the surrounding countryside was full to overflowing: + + "Of bishops and abbots, priors and parsons, + Of earls, and of barons, and of many knights thereto; + Of serjeants, and of squires, and of husbandmen enow, + And of simple men eke of the land--so thick thither drew." + +The archbishop had given notice two years before, proclaiming the day of +the solemnity throughout Europe as well as England: the episcopal manors +had been bidden to furnish provisions for the huge concourse, not only in +the cathedral city, but along all the roads by which it was approached. +Hay and provisions were given to all who asked it between London and +Canterbury; at the gates of the city and in the four licensed cellars tuns +of wine were set up, that all who thirsted might drink freely, and wine +ran in the street channels on the day of the festival. During the night +before the ceremony the primate, together with the Bishop of Salisbury and +all the members of the brotherhood, who were headed by Walter the Prior, +solemnly, with psalms and hymns, entered the crypt in which the martyr's +body lay, and removed the stones which covered the tomb. Four priests, +specially conspicuous for their piety, were selected to take out the +relics, which were then placed in a strong coffer studded with iron nails +and fastened with iron hasps. + +Next day a procession was formed, headed by the young king, Henry III. +After him came Pandulf, the Italian Bishop of Norwich and Papal Nuncio, +and Langton the archbishop, with whom was the Archbishop of Rheims, +Primate of France. The great Hubert de Burgh, Lord High Justiciary, +together with four other barons, completed the company, which was selected +to bear the chest to its resting-place. When this had been duly deposited, +a solemn mass was celebrated by the French archbishop. The anniversary of +this great festival was commemorated as the Feast of the Translation of +the Blessed St. Thomas, until it was suppressed by a royal injunction of +Henry VIII. in 1536. + +A picture of the shrine itself is preserved among the Cottonian MSS., and +a representation of it also exists in one of the stained windows of the +cathedral. At the end of it the altar of the Saint had its place; the +lower part of its walls were of stone, and against them the lame and +diseased pilgrims used to rub their bodies, hoping to be cured of their +afflictions. The shrine itself was supported on marble arches, and +remained concealed under a wooden covering, doubtless intended to enhance +the effect produced by the sudden revelation of the glories beneath it; +for when the pilgrims were duly assembled on their knees round the shrine, +the cover was suddenly raised at a given signal, and though such a device +may appear slightly theatrical in these days, it is easy to imagine how +the devotees of the middle ages must have been thrilled at the sight of +this hallowed tomb, and all the bravery of gold and precious stones which +the piety of that day had heaped upon it. The beauties of the shrine were +pointed out by the prior, who named the giver of the several jewels. Many +of these were of enormous value, especially a huge carbuncle, as large as +an egg, which had been offered to the memory of St. Thomas by Louis VII. +of France, who visited the shrine in A.D. 1179, after having thrice seen +the Saint in a vision. A curious legend, thoroughly in keeping with the +mystic halo of miraculous power which surrounds the martyred archbishop's +fame, relates that the French king could not make up his mind to part with +this invaluable gem, which was called the "Regale of France;" but when he +visited the tomb, the stone, so runs the story, leapt forth from the ring +in which it was set, and fixed itself of its own will firmly in the wall +of the shrine, thus baffling the unwilling monarch's half-heartedness. +Louis also presented a gold cup, and gave the monks a hundred measures, +medii, of wine, to be delivered annually at Poissy, also ordaining that +they should be exempt from "toll, tax, and tallage" when journeying in his +realm. He himself was made a member of the brotherhood, after duly +spending a night in prayer at the tomb. It is said that, "because he was +very fearful of the water," the French king received a promise from the +Saint that neither he nor any other that crossed over from Dover to +Whitsand, should suffer any manner of loss or shipwreck. We are told that +Louis's piety was afterwards rewarded by the miraculous recovery, through +St. Thomas's intercession, of his son from a dangerous illness. Louis was +the first of a series of royal pilgrims to the shrine. Richard the Lion +Heart, set free from durance in Austria, walked thither from Sandwich to +return thanks to God and St. Thomas. After him all the English kings and +all the Continental potentates who visited the shores of Britain, paid due +homage, and doubtless made due offering, at the shrine of the sainted +archbishop. The crown of Scotland was presented in A.D. 1299 by Edward +Longshanks, and Henry V. gave thanks here after his victory over the +French at Agincourt. Emperors, both of the east and west, humbled +themselves before the relics of the famous English martyr. Henry VIII. and +the Emperor Charles V. came together at Whitsuntide, A.D. 1520, in more +than royal splendour, and with a great retinue of English and Spanish +noblemen, and worshipped at the shrine which had then reached the zenith +of its glory. + +But though the stately stories of these royal progresses to the tomb of +the martyred archbishop strike the imagination vividly, yet the picture +presented by Chaucer's "Canterbury Tales" is in reality much more +impressive. For we find there all ranks of society alike making the +pilgrimage--the knight, the yeoman, the prioress, the monk, the friar, the +merchant, the scholar from Oxford, the lawyer, the squire, the tradesman, +the cook, the shipman, the physician, the clothier from Bath, the priest, +the miller, the reeve, the manciple, the seller of indulgences, and, +lastly, the poet himself--all these various sorts and conditions of men +and women we find journeying down to Canterbury in a sort of motley +caravan. Foreign pilgrims also came to the sacred shrine in great numbers. +A curious record, preserved in a Latin translation, of the journey of a +Bohemian noble, Leo von Rotzmital, who visited England in 1446, gives a +quaint description of Canterbury and its approaches. "Sailing up the +Channel," the narrator writes, "as we drew near to England we saw lofty +mountains full of chalk. These mountains seem from a distance to be clad +with snows. On them lies a citadel, built by devils, '_a Cacodaemonibus +extructa_,' so stoutly fortified that its peer could not be found in any +province of Christendom. Passing by these mountains and citadel we put in +at the city of Sandwich (_Sandvicum_).... But at nothing did I marvel more +greatly than at the sailors climbing up the masts and foretelling the +distance, and approach of the winds, and which sails should be set and +which furled. Among them I saw one sailor so nimble that scarce could any +man be compared with him." Journeying on to Canterbury, our pilgrim +proceeds: "There we saw the tomb and head of the martyr. The tomb is of +pure gold, and embellished with jewels, and so enriched with splendid +offerings that I know not its peer. Among other precious things upon it is +beholden the carbuncle jewel, which is wont to shine by night, half a +hen's egg in size. For that tomb has been lavishly enriched by many kings, +princes, wealthy traders, and other righteous men." + +Such was Canterbury Cathedral in the middle ages, the resort of emperors, +kings, and all classes of humble folk, English and foreign. It was in the +spring chiefly, as Chaucer tells us, that + + "Whanne that April with his showres sote + The droughte of March hath perced to the rote, + And bathed every veine in swiche licour, + Of whiche vertue engendred is the flour; + When Zephyrus eke with his sote brethe + Enspired hath in every holt and hethe + The tendre croppes, and the yonge sonne + Hath in the Ram his halfe cours yronne, + And smale foules maken melodie + That slepen alle night with open eye, + So priketh hem nature in hir corages; + Than longen folk to gon on pilgrimages + And palmeres for to seken strange strondes + To serve hauves couthe in sondry londes; + And specially from every shires ende + Of Englelonde, to Canterbury they wende + The holy blissful martyr for to seke, + That hem hath holpen when that they were seke." + +The miracles performed by the bones of the blessed martyr are stated by +contemporary writers to have been extraordinarily numerous. We have it on +the authority of Gervase that two volumes full of these marvels were +preserved at Canterbury, and in those days a volume meant a tome of +formidable dimensions; but scarcely any record of these most interesting +occurrences has been preserved. At the time of Henry VIII.'s quarrel with +the dead archbishop--of which more anon--the name of St. Thomas and all +account of his deeds was erased from every book that the strictest +investigation could lay hands on. So thoroughly was this spiteful edict +carried out that the records of the greatest of English saints are +astonishingly meagre. A letter, however, has been preserved, written about +A.D. 1390 by Richard II. to congratulate the then archbishop, William +Courtenay, on a fresh miracle performed by St. Thomas: "_Litera domini +Regis graciosa missa domino archiepiscopo, regraciando sibi de novo +miraculo Sancti Thome Martiris sibi denunciato._" The letter refers, in +its quaint Norman-French, to the good influence that will be exercised by +such a manifestation, as a practical argument against the "various enemies +of our faith and belief"--_noz foie et creaunce ount plousours enemys_. +These were the Lollards, and the pious king says that he hopes and +believes that they will be brought back to the right path by the effect +of this miracle, which seems to have been worked to heal a distinguished +foreigner--_en une persone estraunge_. + +Another document (dated A.D. 1455) preserves the story of the miraculous +cure of a young Scotsman, from Aberdeen, _Allexander Stephani filius in +Scocia, de Aberdyn oppido natus_. Alexander was lame, _pedibus contractus_, +from his birth, we are told that after twenty-four years of pain and +discomfort--_vigintiquatuor annis penaliter laborabat_--he made a +pilgrimage to Canterbury, and there "the sainted Thomas, the divine +clemency aiding him, on the second day of the month of May did straightway +restore his legs and feet, _bases et plantas_, to the same Alexander." + +Other miracles performed by the saint are pictured in the painted windows +of Trinity Chapel, of which we shall treat fully later on. The fame of the +martyr spread through the whole of Christendom. Stanley tells us that +"there is probably no country in Europe which does not exhibit traces of +Becket. A tooth of his is preserved in the church of San Thomaso +Cantuariense at Verona, part of an arm in a convent at Florence, and +another part in the church of St. Waldetrude at Mons; in Fuller's time +both arms were displayed in the English convent at Lisbon; while Bourbourg +preserves his chalice, Douay his hair shirt, and St. Omer his mitre. The +cathedral of Sens contains his vestments and an ancient altar at which he +said mass. His story is pictured in the painted windows at Chartres, and +Sens, and St. Omer, and his figure is to be seen in the church of Monreale +at Palermo." + +In England almost every county contained a church or convent dedicated to +St. Thomas. Most notable of these was the abbey of Aberbrothock, raised, +within seven years after the martyrdom, to the memory of the saint by +William the Lion, king of Scotland. William had been defeated by the +English forces on the very day on which Henry II. had done penance at the +tomb, and made his peace with the saint, and attributing his misfortunes +to the miraculous influence of St. Thomas, endeavoured to propitiate him +by the dedication of this magnificent abbey. A mutilated image of the +saint has been preserved among the ruins of the monastery. This is perhaps +the most notable of the gifts to St. Thomas. The volume of the offerings +which were poured into the Canterbury coffers by grateful invalids who +had been cured of their ailments, and by others who, like the Scotch king, +were anxious to propitiate the power of the saint, must have been +enormous. We know that at the beginning of the sixteenth century the +yearly offerings, though their sums had already greatly diminished, were +worth about L4,000, according to the present value of money. + +The story of the fall of the shrine and the overthrow of the power of the +martyr is so remarkable and was so implicitly believed at the time, that +it cannot be passed over in spite of the doubts which modern criticism +casts on its authenticity. It is said that in April, A.D. 1538, a writ of +summons was issued in the name of King Henry VIII. against Thomas Becket, +sometime Archbishop of Canterbury, accusing him of treason, contumacy, and +rebellion. This document was read before the martyr's tomb, and thirty +days were allowed for his answer to the summons. As the defendant did not +appear, the suit was formally tried at Westminster. The Attorney General +held a brief for Henry II., and the deceased defendant was represented by +an advocate named by Henry VIII. Needless to relate, judgment was given in +favour of Henry II., and the condemned Archbishop was ordered to have his +bones burnt and all his gorgeous offerings escheated to the Crown. The +first part of the sentence was remitted and Becket's body was buried, but +he was deprived of the title of Saint, his images were destroyed +throughout the kingdom, and his name was erased from all books. The shrine +was destroyed, and the gold and jewels thereof were taken away in +twenty-six carts. Henry VIII. himself wore the Regale of France in a ring +on his thumb. Improbable as the story of Becket's trial may seem, such a +procedure was strictly in accordance with the forms of the Roman Catholic +Church, of which Henry still at that time professed himself a member: +moreover it is not without authentic parallels in history: exactly the +same measures of reprisal had been taken against Wycliffe at Lutterworth; +and Queen Mary shortly afterwards acted in a similar manner towards Bucer +and Fagius at Cambridge. + +The last recorded pilgrim to the shrine of St. Thomas was Madame de +Montreuil, a great French dame who had been waiting on Mary of Guise, in +Scotland. She visited Canterbury in August, A.D. 1538, and we are told +that she was taken to see the wonders of the place and marvelled at all +the riches thereof, and said "that if she had not seen it, all the men in +the world could never 'a made her believe it." Though she would not kiss +the head of St. Thomas, the Prior "did send her a present of coneys, +capons, chickens, with divers fruits--plenty--insomuch that she said, +'What shall we do with so many capons? Let the Lord Prior come, and eat, +and help us to eat them tomorrow at dinner' and so thanked him heartily +for the said present." + +Such was the history of Becket's shrine. We have dwelt on it at some +length because it is no exaggeration to say that in the Middle Ages +Canterbury Cathedral owed its European fame and enormous riches to the +fact that it contained the shrine within its walls, and because the story +of the influence of the Saint and the miracles that he worked, and the +millions of pilgrims who flocked from the whole civilized world to do +homage to him, throws a brighter and more vivid light on the lives and +thoughts and beliefs of mediaeval men than many volumes stuffed with +historical research. No visitor to Canterbury can appreciate what he sees, +unless he realizes to some extent the glamour which overhung the resting +place of St. Thomas in the days of Geoffrey Chaucer. We have no certain +knowledge as to whether the other shrines and relics which enriched the +cathedral were destroyed along with those of St. Thomas. Dunstan and +Elphege at least can hardly have escaped, and it is probable that most of +the monuments and relics perished at the time of the Reformation. We know +that in A.D. 1541, Cranmer deplored the slight effect which had been +wrought by the royal orders for the destruction of the bones and images +of supposed saints. And that he forthwith received letters from the king, +enjoining him to cause "due search to be made in his cathedral churches, +and if any shrine, covering of shrine, table, monument of miracles, or +other pilgrimage, do there continue, to cause it to be taken away, so as +there remain no memory of it." This order probably brought about the +destruction of the tombs and monuments of the early archbishops, most +of whom had been officially canonised, or been at least enrolled in the +popular calendar, and were accordingly doomed to have their resting-places +desecrated. We know that about this time the tomb of Winchelsey was +destroyed, because he was adored by the people as a reputed saint. + +Any monuments that may have escaped royal vandalism at the Reformation +period, fell before the even more effective fanaticism of the Puritans, +who seem to have exercised their iconoclastic energies with especial zeal +and vigour at Canterbury. Just before their time Archbishop Laud spent a +good deal of trouble and money on the adornment of the high altar. A +letter to him from the Dean, dated July 8th, A.D. 1634, is quoted by +Prynne, "We have obeyed your Grace's direction in pulling down the +exorbitant seates within our Quire whereby the church is very much +beautified.... Lastly wee most humbly beseech your Grace to take notice +that many and most necessary have beene the occasions of extraordinary +expences this yeare for ornaments, etc." And another Puritan scribe tells +us that "At the east end of the cathedral they have placed an Altar as +they call it dressed after the Romish fashion, for which altar they have +lately provided a most idolatrous costly glory cloth or back cloth." + +These embellishments were not destined to remain long undisturbed. In A.D. +1642, the Puritan troopers hewed the altar-rails to pieces and then "threw +the Altar over and over down the three Altar steps, and left it lying with +the heels upwards." This was only the beginning: we read that during the +time of the Great Rebellion, "the newly erected font was pulled down, the +inscriptions, figures, and coats of arms, engraven upon brass, were torn +off from the ancient monuments, and whatsoever there was of beauty or +decency in the holy place, was despoiled." + +A manuscript, compiled in 1662, and preserved in the Chapter library, +gives a more minute account of this work of destruction. "The windows +were generally battered and broken down; the whole roof, with that of the +steeples, the chapter-house and cloister, externally impaired and ruined +both in timber-work and lead; water-tanks, pipes, and much other lead cut +off; the choir stripped and robbed of her fair and goodly hangings; the +organ and organ-loft, communion-table, and the best and chiefest of the +furniture, with the rail before it, and the screen of tabernacle work +richly overlaid with gold behind it; goodly monuments shamefully abused, +defaced, and rifled of brasses, iron grates, and bars." + +The ringleader in this work of destruction was a fanatic named Richard +Culmer, commonly known as Blue Dick. A paper preserved in the Chapter +library, in the writing of Somner, the great antiquarian scholar, +describes the state in which the fabric of the cathedral was left, at the +time of the Restoration of King Charles II., in 1660. "So little," says +this document, "had the fury of the late reformers left remaining of it +besides the bare walles and roofe, and these, partly through neglect, and +partly by the daily assaults and batteries of the disaffected, so +shattered, ruinated, and defaced, as it was not more unserviceable in the +way of a cathedral than justly scandalous to all who delight to serve God +in the beauty of Holines." Most of the windows had been broken, "the +church's guardians, her faire and strong gates, turned off the hooks and +burned." The buildings and houses of the clergy had been pulled down or +greatly damaged; and lastly, "the goodly oaks in our common gardens, of +good value in themselves, and in their time very beneficial to our church +by their shelter, quite eradicated and _set to sale_." This last touch is +interesting, as showing that the reforming zeal of the Puritans was not +always altogether disinterested. + +After the Restoration some attempt was made to render the cathedral once +more a fitting place of worship, and the sum of L10,000 was devoted to +repairs and other public and pious uses. A screen was put up in the same +position as the former one, and the altar was placed in front. But, in +A.D. 1729, this screen no longer suited the taste of the period, and a +sum of L500, bequeathed by one of the prebendaries, was devoted to the +erection of a screen in the Corinthian style, designed by a certain Mr. +Burrough, afterwards Master of Caius College, Cambridge. A little before +this time the old stalls, which had survived the Puritan period were +replaced: a writer describes them, in the early half of the seventeenth +century, as standing in two rows, an upper and lower, on each side, with +the archbishop's wood throne above them on the south side. This chair he +mentions as "sometime richly guilt, and otherwise well set forth, but now +nothing specious through age and late neglect. It is a close seat, made +after the old fashion of such stalls, called thence _faldistoria_; only in +this they differ, that they were moveable, this is fixt." + +Thus wrote Somner in A.D. 1640: the dilapidated throne of which he speaks +was replaced, in A.D. 1704, by a splendid throne with a tall Corinthian +canopy, and decorated with carving by Grinling Gibbons, the gift of +Archbishop Tenison, who also set up new stalls. At the same time Queen +Mary the Second presented new and magnificent furniture for the altar, +throne, stalls of the chief clergy, and pulpit. Since then many alterations +have been made. The old altar and screen have been removed, and a new +reredos set up, copied from the screen work of the Lady Chapel in the +crypt; and Archbishop Tenison's throne has given place to a lofty stone +canopy. In 1834 owing to its tottering condition the north-west tower of +the nave had to be pulled down. It was rebuilt on an entirely different +plan by Mr. George Austin, who, with his son, also conducted a good deal +of repairing and other work in the cathedral and the buildings connected +with it. A good deal of the external stonework had to be renewed, but the +work was carried out judiciously, and only where it was absolutely +necessary. On the west side of the south transept a turret has been pulled +down and set up again stone by stone. The crypt has been cleared out and +restored, and its windows have been reopened. The least satisfactory +evidences of the modern hand are the stained glass windows, which have been +put up in the nave and transepts of the cathedral. The Puritan trooper had +wrought havoc in the ancient glass, smashing it wherever a pike-thrust +could reach; and modern piety has been almost as ruthless in erecting +windows which are quite incredibly hideous. + +In September, 1872, Canterbury was once more damaged by fire, just about +seven hundred years after the memorable conflagration described by +Gervase. On this occasion, however, the damage did not go beyond the outer +roof of the Trinity Chapel. The fire broke out at about half-past ten in +the morning, and was luckily discovered before it had made much progress, +by two plumbers who were at work in the south gutter. According to the +"Builder" of that month, "a peculiar whirring noise" caused them to look +inside the roof, and they found three of the main roof-timbers blazing. "The +best conjecture seems to be that the dry twigs, straw, and similar +_debris_, carried into the roof by birds, and which it has been the custom +to clear at intervals out of the vault pockets, had caught fire from a +spark that had in some way passed through the roof covering, perhaps under +a sheet raised a little at the bottom by the wind." Assistance was quickly +summoned, and "by half-past twelve the whole was seen to be extinguished. +At four o'clock the authorities held the evening service, so as not to +break a continuity of custom extending over centuries; and in the +smoke-filled choir, the whole of the Chapter in residence, in the proper +Psalm (xviii.), found expression for the sense of victory over a conquered +enemy." + +Thus little harm was done, but it must have been an exciting crisis while +it lasted. "The bosses [of the vaulting], pierced with cradle-holes, +happened to be well-placed for the passage of the liquid lead dripping on +the back of the vault from the blazing roof," which poured down on to the +pavement below, on the very spot which Becket's shrine had once occupied. +"Through the holes further westward water came, sufficient to float over +the surfaces of the polished Purbeck marble floor and the steps of the +altar, and alarmed the well-intentioned assistants into removing the +altar, tearing up the altar-rails, etc., etc. The relics of the Black +Prince, attached to a beam (over his tomb) at the level of the caps of the +piers on the south side of Trinity Chapel, were all taken down and placed +away in safety. The eastern end of the church is said to have been filled +with steam from water rushing through with, and falling on, the molten +lead on the floor; and, in time, by every opening, wood-smoke reached the +inside of the building, filling all down to the west of the nave with a +blue haze." The scene in the building is said to have been one of +extraordinary beauty, but most lovers of architecture would probably +prefer to view the fabric with its own loveliness, unenhanced by numerous +streams of molten lead pouring down from the roof. + +Since that date Canterbury Cathedral has been happy in the possession of +no history, and we pass on, therefore, to the examination in detail of its +exterior. + +[Illustration: THE CLOISTERS.] + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +EXTERIOR AND PRECINCTS--THE MONASTERY. + + +The external beauties of Canterbury Cathedral can best be viewed in their +entirety from a distance. The old town has nestled in close under the +walls of the church that dominates it, preventing anything like a complete +view of the building from the immediate precincts. But Canterbury is girt +with a ring of hills, from which we may enjoy a strikingly beautiful view +of the ancient city, lying asleep in the rich, peaceful valley of the +Stour, and the mighty cathedral towering over the red-tiled roofs of the +town, and looking, as a rustic remarked as he gazed down upon it "like a +hen brooding over her chickens." Erasmus must have been struck by some +such aspect of the cathedral, for he says, "It rears its crest (_erigit +se_) with so great majesty to the sky, that it inspires a feeling of awe +even in those who look at it from afar." Such a view may well be got from +the hills of Harbledown, a village about two miles from Canterbury, +containing in itself many objects of antiquarian and aesthetic interest. +It stands on the road by which Chaucer's pilgrims wended their way to the +shrine of St. Thomas, and it is almost certainly referred to in the lines +in which the poet speaks of + + "A little town + Which that yeleped is Bob Up and Down + Under the Blee in Canterbury way." + +The name Harbledown is derived by local philologists from Bob up and Down, +and the hilly nature of the country fully justifies the title. Here stands +Lanfranc's Lazar-house, "so picturesque even now in its decay, and in +spite of modern alterations which have swept away all but the ivy-clad +chapel of Lanfranc." In this hospital a shoe of St. Thomas was preserved +which pilgrims were expected to kiss as they passed by; and in an old +chest the modern visitor may still behold a rude money-box with a slit in +the lid, into which the great Erasmus is said to have dropped a coin when +he visited Canterbury at the time when St. Thomas's glory was just +beginning to wane. Behind the hospital is an ancient well called "the +Black Prince's Well." The Black Prince, as is well known, passed through +Canterbury on his way from Sandwich to London, whither he was escorting +his royal prisoner, King John of France, whom he had captured at the +battle of Poitiers, A.D. 1357. We need not doubt that he halted at +Harbledown to salute the martyr's shoe, and he may have washed in the +water of the well, which was henceforward called by his name. Another +tradition relates that he had water brought to him from this well when +he lay sick, ten years later, in the archbishop's palace at Canterbury. + +[Illustration: VIEW ON THE STOUR.] + +Another good view may be had from the crest on which stands St. Martin's +Church, which was formerly believed to be the oldest in England, so +ancient that its origin was connected with the mythical King Lucius. +Modern research has decided that it is of later date, but there is no +doubt that on the spot on which it now stands, Bertha, the wife of +Ethelbert--who was ruling when Augustine landed with his monks--had a +little chapel, as Bede relates, "in the east of the city," where she +worshipped, before her husband's conversion, with her chaplain, Luidhard, +a French priest. Dean Stanley has described this view in a fine passage: + +"Let any one sit on the hill of the little church of St. Martin, and look +on the view which is there spread before his eyes. Immediately below are +the towers of the great abbey of St. Augustine, where Christian learning +and civilization first struck root in the Anglo-Saxon race; and within +which, now, after a lapse of many centuries, a new institution has arisen, +intended to carry far and wide to countries of which Gregory and Augustine +never heard, the blessings which they gave to us. Carry your view on--and +there rises high above all the magnificent pile of our cathedral, equal in +splendour and state to any, the noblest temple or church, that Augustine +could have seen in ancient Rome, rising on the very ground which derives +its consecration from him. And still more than the grandeur of the outward +building that rose from the little church of Augustine, and the little +palace of Ethelbert, have been the institutions of all kinds, of which +these were the earliest cradle. From the first English Christian +city--from Kent, the first English Christian kingdom--has, by degrees, +arisen the whole constitution of Church and State in England which now +binds together the whole British Empire. And from the Christianity here +established in England has flowed, by direct consequence, first, the +Christianity of Germany--then after a long interval, of North America, and +lastly, we may trust in time, of all India and all Australasia. The view +from St. Martin's Church is, indeed, one of the most inspiriting that can +be found in the world; there is none to which I would more willingly take +any one who doubted whether a small beginning could lead to a great and +lasting good--none which carries us more vividly back into the past, or +more hopefully forward to the future." + +In the town itself, the best point of vantage from which the visitor can +get a good view of the cathedral is the summit of the Dane John, a lofty +mound crowned by an obelisk; from this height we look across at the roof +and towers of the cathedral rising above thickly clustering trees: from +here also there is a fine view over the beautiful valley of the Stour in +the direction of Thanington and Chartham. + +In the immediate precincts, a delightful picture is presented from the +Green Court, which was once the main outer court of the monastery. Here +are noble trees and beautifully kept turf, at once in perfect harmony and +agreeable contrast with the rugged walls of the weather-beaten cathedral: +the quiet soft colouring of the ancient buildings and that look of +cloistered seclusion only to be found in the peaceful nooks of cathedral +cities are seen here at their very best. + +[Illustration: "BELL HARRY," THE CENTRAL TOWER.] + +The chief glory of the exterior of Canterbury Cathedral is the central +#Angel or Bell Tower#. This is one of the most perfect structures that +Gothic architecture, inspired by the loftiest purpose that ever stimulated +the work of any art, has produced. It was completed by Prior Selling, who +held office in 1472, and has been variously called the Bell Harry Tower +from the mighty Dunstan bell, weighing three tons and three hundredweight, +and the Angel Tower from the gilded figure of an angel poised on one of +the pinnacles, which has long ago disappeared. The tower itself is of two +stages, with two two-light windows in each stage; the windows are +transomed in each face, and the lower tier is canopied; each angle is +rounded off with an octagonal turret and the whole structure is a +marvellous example of architectural harmony, and in every way a work of +transcendent beauty. The two buttressing arches and the ornamental braces +which support it were added at the end of the fifteenth century by Prior +Goldstone, to whom the building of the whole tower is apparently +attributed in the following quaint passage from a mediaeval authority: "He +by the influence and help of those honourable men, Cardinal John Morton +and Prior William Sellyng, erected and magnificently completed that lofty +tower commonly called Angyll Stepyll in the midst of the church, between +the choir and the nave--vaulted with a most beautiful vault, and with +excellent and artistic workmanship in every part sculptured and gilt, with +ample windows glazed and ironed. He also with great care and industry +annexed to the columns which support the same tower two arches or +vaults of stone work, curiously carved, and four smaller ones, to assist +in sustaining the said tower" ("Ang. Sac." i. 147, translated by Professor +Willis). The western front of the cathedral is flanked by two towers of +great beauty; a point in which Mediaeval architecture has risen above that +of all other ages is the skill which it displays in the use of towers of +different heights, breaking the dull straight line of the roof and +carrying the eye gradually up to the loftiest point of the building. +Canterbury presents an excellent example of the beauty of this +subordination of lower towers to the chief; we invite the visitor, when +looking at the exterior, to compare it mentally, on the one hand, with the +dull severity of the roof line of a Greek temple, and on the other, to +take a fair example of modern so-called Gothic, with the ugly straight +line of the Houses of Parliament, as seen from the Lambeth Embankment, +broken only by the two stark and stiff erections at each end. The two +towers at the west end of Canterbury were not always uniform. At the +northern corner an old Norman tower formerly uplifted a leaden spire one +hundred feet high. This rather anomalous arrangement must have had a +decidedly lopsided effect, and it is probable that the appearance of the +cathedral was changed very much for the better when the spire, which had +been taken down in 1705, was replaced by Mr. Austin in 1840, by a tower +uniform with the southernmost tower, called the Chicele or Oxford steeple: +this tower was completed by Prior Goldstone, who, during his tenure of +office from 1449-68, also built the Lady Chapel. On its south side stands +the porch, with a remarkable central niche, which formerly contained a +representation of Becket's martyrdom. The figures of the Archbishop's +assassins now no longer remain; but their place has been filled up with +figures of various worthies who have lived under the shadow of the +cathedral. Dean Alford suggested, about 1863, that the many vacant niches +should be peopled in this manner, and since then the work has proceeded +steadily. The western towers are built each of six stages: each of the two +upper tiers contains two two-light windows, while below there is a large +four-light window uniform with the windows of the aisles. The base tier is +ornamented with rich panelling. The parapet is battlemented and the angles +are finished with fine double pinnacles. At the west end there is a large +window of seven lights, with three transoms. The gable contains a window +of very curious shape, filled with intricate tracery. The space above the +aisle windows is ornamented with quatrefoiled squares, and the clerestory +is pierced by windows of three lights. In the main transept there is a +fine perpendicular window of eight lights; the choir, or south-east +transept, has a Norman front, with arcades, and a large round window; also +an arcaded west turret surmounted by a short spire. Beyond this, the line +is again broken by the projection of St. Anselm's so-called Tower; this +chapel hardly merits such a title, unless we adopt the theory that it, and +the corresponding building on the north side, were at one time a good deal +more lofty, but lost their upper portions at the time of the great fire. +The end of the cathedral has a rather untidy appearance, owing to the fact +that the exterior of the corona was never completed. On the northern side +the building is so closely interwoven with the cloister and monastic +buildings that it can only be considered in conjunction with them. The +length of the cathedral is 514 feet, the height of the central tower 235 +feet, and that of the western towers 130 feet. + +The chief interest of ancient buildings to the ordinary observer, as apart +from the architectural specialist, is the fact that they are after all the +most authentic documents in our possession from which we can gain any +insight into the lives and modes of thought of our ancestors. To tell us +how ordinary men lived and busied themselves is beneath the dignity of +history. As Carlyle says: "The thing I want to see is not Redbook Lists, +and Court Calendars, and Parliamentary Registers, but the _Life of Man_ in +England: what men did, thought, suffered, enjoyed; ... Mournful, in truth, +is it to behold what the business 'called History' in these so enlightened +and illuminated times, still continues to be. Can you gather from it, read +till your eyes go out, any dimmest shadow of an answer to that great +question: How men lived and had their being; were it but economically, as, +what wages they got, and what they bought with these? Unhappily they +cannot.... History, as it stands all bound up in gilt volumes, is but a +shade more instructive than the wooden volumes of a backgammon-board." +Most of us have felt, at one time or another, the truth of these words, +though it is only fair to add that the fault lies not so much at the door +of the modern historian as of our ancestors themselves, who were too busy +with fighting and revelling to leave any but the most meagre account of +their own lives behind them; so that "Redbook Lists and Parliamentary +Registers" are all that the veracious chronicler, who will not let his +imagination run riot, can find to put before us. But happily, in the +wildest days of the Middle Ages, there were found some peace-loving souls +who preferred to drone away their lives in quiet meditation behind the +walls of the great monasteries, undisturbed by the clash of swords. Some +outlet had to be found for their innate energies and their intense +religious enthusiasm; missionary zeal had not yet been invented, and the +writing of books would have seemed to them a waste of good parchment, for +in their eyes the Scriptures and the Aristotelian writings supplied all +the food that the most voracious intellect could crave for. So they +applied all their genius--and it is probable that the flower of the +European race, as far as intelligence and culture are concerned, was +gathered in those days into the Church--and all the ecstatic fervour of +their religious devotion, the strength of which men of these latter days +can hardly realize, to the construction of beautiful buildings for the +worship of God. They have written a history in stone, from which a +thoughtful student can supply much that is left out by the dry-as-dust +annalists, for it is not only the history, but the actual result and +expression, of the lives of the most gifted men of the Middle Ages. + +If we would read this history aright it is necessary that we should look +at it as far as possible, as it was originally published. If the old +binding has been torn off, and the volume hedged in by a crowd of modern +literature, we must try to put these aside and consider the book as it was +first issued; in other words, to drop metaphor altogether, in considering +a building like Canterbury Cathedral, we must forget the busy little +country town, with its crowded streets and noisy railway stations, though, +from one point of view, the contrast that they present is agreeable and +valuable, and try to conceive the church as it once stood, the centre of a +harmonious group of monastic buildings. + +The founder of the monastic system in the West was the famous Benedict of +Nursia, who had adapted the strict code of St. Basil, mitigating its +severity, and making it more in accordance with the climate, manners, +and general circumstances of Western peoples. His code was described by +Gregory the Great as "excellent in its discretion, lucid in its +expression"--_discretione praecipuam sermone luculentam_. He founded the +monasteries of Montecassino and Subiaco in the beginning of the sixth +century. In the ninth and tenth centuries--the worst period of the Dark +Ages--corruption and laxity pervaded society in general, and the +Benedictine monasteries especially. At the end of this deplorable epoch +many efforts were made in the direction of reform. Gregory the Great +himself was a member of the Benedictine brotherhood; so also was +Augustine, who founded the great monastery of Christ Church. The venerable +Bede relates that "when Augustine, the first Archbishop of Canterbury, +assumed the episcopal throne in that royal city, he recovered therein, +by the king's assistance, a church which, as he was told, had been +constructed by the original labour of Roman believers. This church he +consecrated in the name of the Saviour, our God and Lord Jesus Christ, and +there he established an habitation for himself and all his successors." +This was the Basilica-Church, mentioned in an earlier part of this work, +an imitation of the original Basilica of St. Peter at Rome. Augustine's +monastery was handsomely endowed. A large stretch of country was given to +the monks, and they were the first who brought the soil into cultivation, +and built churches and preached in them. "The monks," says Bede, "were the +principal of those who came to the work of preaching." In the city itself +there were thirty-two "mansurae" or mansions, held by the clergy, rendering +35_s._ a year, and a mill worth 5_s._ per annum. Augustine's monastery +lived and prospered--though, as we shall see, it did not escape the +general corruption of the eighth and ninth centuries--until the time of +the Norman invasion. In 1067 a fire destroyed the Saxon cathedral and the +greater part of the monastic buildings. But the year 1070 marks an epoch +in the history of the monastery, for it was then that William the +Conqueror having deposed Stigand, the Saxon Primate, invited Lanfranc, the +Abbot of Caen, to accept the vacant see. He "being overcome by the will of +God as much as by the apostolic authority, passed over into England, and, +not forgetful of the object for which he had come, directed all his +endeavours to the correction of the manners of his people, and settling +the state of the Church. And first he laboured to renew the church of +Canterbury ... and built also necessary offices for the use of the monks; +and (which is very remarkable) he caused to be brought over the sea in +swift sailing vessels squared stones from Caen in order to build with. He +also built a house for his own dwelling near the church, and surrounded +all these buildings with a vast and lofty wall." Also "he duly arranged +all that was necessary for the table and clothing of the monks," and "many +lands which had been taken away he brought back into the property of the +Church and restored to it twenty-five manors." He also added one hundred +to the original number of the monks, and drew up a new system of +discipline to correct the laxity which was rife when he entered on the +primacy. He tells Anselm in a letter that "the land in which he is, is +daily shaken with so many and so great tribulations, is stained with so +many adulteries and other impurities, that no order of men consults for +the benefit of his soul, or even desires to hear the salutary doctrine of +God for his increase in holiness." Perhaps the most interesting feature of +his reconstruction of the "regula," or rule for the monks' discipline, was +his enactment with regard to the library and the studies of the brethren. +In the first week in Lent, the monks had to bring back and place in the +Chapter House the books which had been provided for their instruction +during the previous year. Those who had not duly performed the yearly +portion of reading prostrated themselves, confessing their fault and +asking pardon. A fresh distribution was then made, and the brethren +retired, each furnished with a year's literary task. Apparently no +examination was held, no test applied to discover whether the last year's +instruction had been digested and assimilated. It was assumed that +anything like a perfunctory performance of the allotted task was out +of the question. + +Another important alteration introduced by Lanfranc was his inauguration +of the system under which the monastery was in immediate charge, no longer +of the archbishop, but of a prior. Henceforward the primate stood forth as +the head of the Church, rather than as merely the chief of her most +ancient foundation. + +We have dwelt at some length on the subject of the monastery at +Canterbury, because, as we have said, it is impossible to learn the +lesson of the cathedral truly, unless we regard the fabric in its original +setting, surrounded by monastic buildings; and it is impossible to +interest ourselves in the monastic buildings without knowing something of +the institution which they housed. + +[Illustration: DETAIL OF ST. ANSELM'S TOWER.] + +The buildings which contained a great #monastery# like that of Canterbury +were necessarily very extensive. Chief among them was the chapter house, +which generally adjoined the principal cloister, bounded by the nave of +the church and one of the transepts. Then there were the buildings +necessary for the actual housing and daily living of the monks--the +dormitory, refectory, kitchen, buttery, and other indispensable offices. +Another highly important building, usually standing eastward of the +church, was the infirmary or hospital for sick brethren, with its chapel +duly attached. Further, the rules of Benedictine monasteries always +enjoined the strict observance of the duty of hospitality, and some part +of the buildings was invariably set aside for the due entertainment of +strangers of various ranks. Visitors of distinction were entertained in +special rooms which generally were attached to the house of the prior or +abbot: guests of a lower order were lodged hard by the hall of the +cellarer; while poor pilgrims and chance wanderers who craved a night's +shelter were bestowed, as a rule, near the main gate of the monastery. +Lastly, it must not be forgotten that a well-endowed monastery was always +the steward of a great estate, so that many storehouses and +farm-buildings--barns, granaries, bakehouse, etc.--were a necessary part +of the institution. Extensive stabling was also required to shelter the +horses of illustrious visitors and their suites. Moreover, the clergy +themselves were often greatly addicted to the chase, and we know that the +pious St. Thomas found time to cultivate a taste for horseflesh, which was +remarkable even in those days when all men who wanted to move at all were +bound to ride. The knights who murdered him thought it worth while to +pillage his stable after accomplishing their errand. + +[Illustration: THE CHRISTCHURCH GATE +(FROM A PHOTOGRAPH BY CARL NORMAN AND CO).] + +The centre round which all these manifold buildings and offices were +ranged was, of course, the cathedral. Wherever available space and the +nature of the ground permitted it, the cloister and chief buildings were +placed under the shelter of the church on its southern side, as may be +seen, for instance, at Westminster, where the cloisters, chapter house, +deanery, refectory (now the College Hall), etc., are all gathered on the +south side of the Abbey. At Canterbury, however, the builders were not +able to follow the usual practice, owing to the fact that they were hemmed +in closely by the houses of the city on the south side, so that we find +that the space between the north side of the cathedral and the city wall, +all of which belonged to the monks, was the site of the monastic +buildings. The whole group formed by the cathedral and the subsidiary +buildings was girt by a massive wall, which was restored and made more +effective as a defence by Lanfranc. It is probable that some of the +remains of this wall, which still survive, may be considered as dating +from his time. The chief gate, both in ancient and modern days, is Prior +Goldstone's Gate, usually known as #Christ Church Gate#, an exceedingly +good example of the later Perpendicular style. A contemporary inscription +tells us that it was built in 1517. It stands at the end of Mercery Lane, +a lofty building with towers at its corners, and two storeys above the +archway. In front there is a central niche, in which an image of our +Saviour originally stood, while below a row of shields, much battered and +weather-beaten, display armorial bearings, doubtless those of pious +contributors to the cost of the building. An early work of Turner's has +preserved the corner pinnacles which once decorated the top of the gate; +these were removed some thirty years ago. + +[Illustration: THE SOUTH-WEST PORCH OF THE CATHEDRAL.] + +[Illustration: CLOISTERS OF THE MONKS' INFIRMARY.] + +Entering the precincts through this gateway we find ourselves in what was +the _outer_ cemetery, in which members of the laity were allowed to be +buried. The _inner_ cemetery, reserved as a resting-place for the brethren +themselves, was formerly divided from the outer by a wall which extended +from St. Anselm's chapel. A Norman door, which was at one time part of +this wall, has now been put into a wall at the east end of the monks' +burying ground. This space is now called "The Oaks." A bell tower, +_campanile_, doubtless used for tolling the passing bell, once stood on a +mound in the cemetery, close to the dividing wall. The houses on the south +side of this space are of no great antiquity or interest, and the site on +which they stand did not become part of the monastery grounds before a +comparatively late period. But if we skirt the east end of the cathedral +we come to the space formerly known as the "Homors," a word supposed to be +a corruption of _Ormeaux_, a French word, meaning elms.[1] Here stood the +building in which guests of rank and distinction were entertained; and the +great hall, with its kitchen and offices, is still preserved in a house in +the north-east corner of the inclosure, now the residence of one of the +prebendaries. The original building was one of great importance in a +monastery like Canterbury, which was so often visited, as has already been +shown, by royal pilgrims. It is said to have been rebuilt from top to +bottom by Prior Chillenden, and the nature of the architecture, as far as +it can be traced, is not in any way at variance with this statement. The +hall, as it originally stood, was pierced with oriel windows rising to the +roof, and at its western end a walled-off portion was divided into two +storeys, the lower one containing the kitchens, while the upper one was +either a distinct room separated from the hall, or it may have been a +gallery opening upon it. + + [1] Though it is also derived from one Dr. Omerus, who lived on the spot + in the thirteenth century. + +To the west of this house we find the #ruins of the Infirmary#, which +contained a long hall with aisles, and a chapel at the east end. The hall +was used as the hospital, and the aisles were sometimes divided into +separate compartments; the chapel was really part of the hall, with only a +screen intervening, so that the sick brethren could take part in the +services. This infirmary survived until the Reformation period, but not +without undergoing alterations. Before the fifteenth century the south +aisle was devoted to the use of the sub-prior, and the chancel at the east +end of the chapel was partially restored about the middle of the +fourteenth century. A large east window was put in with three-light +windows on each side. In the north wall there is a curious opening, +through which, perhaps, sufferers from infectious diseases were allowed to +assist at the services. On the southern side, the whole row of the pillars +and arches of the chapel, and some traces of a clerestory, still remain. +On the wall are some traces of paintings, which are too faded to be +deciphered. Such of the pillars and arches of the hall as still survive +are strongly coloured by the great fire of 1174, in which Prior Conrad's +choir was destroyed. + +[Illustration: RUINS OF THE MONKS' INFIRMARY.] + +[Illustration: THE BAPTISTERY TOWER.] + +Westward of the infirmary, and connected with St. Andrew's tower, stands a +strikingly beautiful building, which was once #the Vestiarium, or +Treasury#: it consists of two storeys, of which the lower is open on the +east and west, while the upper contained the treasury chamber, a finely +proportioned room, decorated with an arcade of intersecting arches. + +An archway leads us from the infirmary into what is called the Dark Entry, +whence a passage leads to the Prior's Gate and onward into the Prior's +Court, more commonly known as the Green Court: this passage was the +eastern boundary of the infirmary cloister. Over it Prior de Estria +raised the _scaccarium_, or checker-building, the counting-house of +the monastery. + +Turning back towards the infirmary entrance we come to #the Lavatory +Tower#, which stands out from the west end of the substructure of the +Prior's Chapel. The chapel itself was pulled down at the close of the +seventeenth century, and a brick-built library was erected on its site. +The lavatory tower is now more commonly called the baptistery, but this +name gives a false impression, and only came into use because the building +now contains a font, given to the cathedral by Bishop Warner. The lower +part of the tower is late Norman in style, and was built in the latter half +of the twelfth century, when the monastery was supplied with a system of +works by which water was drawn from some distant springs, which still +supply the cathedral and precincts. The water was distributed from this +tower to the various buildings. The original designs of the engineer are +preserved at Trinity College, Cambridge. The upper part of the tower was +rebuilt by Prior Chillenden. + +From the lavatory tower a covered passage leads into the great cloister, +which can also be approached from a door in the north-west transept. The +cloister, though it stands upon the space covered by that built by +Lanfranc, is largely the work of the indefatigable Prior Chillenden. It +shows traces of many architectural periods. The east walk contains a door, +leading into the transept, embellished with a triple arcade of early +English; under the central arch of the arcade is the doorway itself, a +later addition in Perpendicular. There is also a Norman doorway which once +communicated with the monks' dormitory: after the Reformation it was +walled up, but in 1813 the plaster which concealed it was taken away, and +since then it has been carefully restored. The rest of the work in this +part of the cloister is chiefly Perpendicular. The north walk is adorned +with an Early English arcade, against which the shafts which support +Chillenden's vaulting work are placed with rather unsatisfactory effect. +Towards the western end of this walk is the door of the refectory. + +[Illustration: TURRET OF SOUTH-WEST TRANSEPT.] + +The cellarer's quarters were outside the west walk, and they were +connected with the cloister by a doorway at the north-west corner: +opposite this entrance was a door leading to the archbishop's palace, and +through this Becket made his way towards the cathedral when his murderers +were in pursuit of him. + +The great dormitory of the monks was built along the east walk of the +cloister, extending some way beyond it. It was pulled down in 1547, but +the substructure was left standing, and some private houses were erected +upon it. These were removed in the middle of the last century, and a good +deal of the substructure remained until 1867, when the vaulting which +survived was pulled down to make way for the new library, which was +erected on the dormitory site. Some of the pillars on which the vault of +the substructure rested are preserved in a garden in the precincts; and a +fragment of the upper part of the dormitory building, which escaped the +demolition in 1547, may be seen in the gable of the new library. The +substructure was a fine building, 148 feet by 78 feet; the vaulting was, +as described by Professor Willis, "of the earliest kind; constructed of +light tufa, having no transverse ribs, and retaining the impressions of +the rough, boarded centring upon which they had been formed." A second +minor dormitory ran eastward from the larger one, while outside this was +the third dormitory, fronting the Green Court. Some portion of the vaults +of this building is still preserved in the garden before the lavatory +tower. + +#The Chapter House# lies eastward of the wall of the cloister, on the site +of the original Norman building, which was rather less extensive. The +present structure is oblong in shape, measuring 90 feet by 35 feet. The +roof consists of a "barrel vault" and was built by Prior Chillenden, along +with the whole of the upper storey at the end of the fourteenth century. +The windows, high and four-lighted, are also his work; those at the east +and west ends exceed in size all those of the cathedral, having seven +lights. The lower storey was built by Prior de Estria about a century +before the work was completed by Chillenden. De Estria also erected the +choir-screen in the cathedral, which will be described in its proper +place. The walls of the chapter house are embellished with an arcade of +trefoiled arches, surmounted by a cornice. At the east end stands a throne +with a splendid canopy. This building was at one time, after the +Reformation, used as a sermon house, but the inconvenience caused by +moving the congregation from the choir, where service was held, across to +the chapter house to hear the discourse, was so great that the practice +was not long continued. It has been restored, and its opening by H.R.H. +the Prince of Wales, May 29th, 1897, is announced just as this edition +goes to press. + +[Illustration: THE CLOISTERS.] + +#The Library# covers a portion of the site of the monks' dormitory. Stored +within it is a fine collection of books, some of which are exceedingly +rare. The most valuable specimens--among which are some highly interesting +bibles and prayer-books--are jealously guarded in a separate apartment +called the study. The most interesting document in the collection of +charters and other papers connected with the foundation is the charter of +Edred, probably written by Dunstan _propriis digitorum articulis_; this +room also contains an ancient picture of Queen Edgiva painted on wood, +with an inscription below enlarging on the beauties of her character and +her munificence towards the monastery. + +In the garden before the lavatory tower, to the west of the prior's +gateway, two columns are preserved which once were part of the ancient +church at Reculver--formerly Regulbium, whither Ethelbert retired after +making over his palace in Canterbury to Augustine. These columns were +brought to Canterbury after the destruction, nearly a hundred years ago, +of the church to which they belonged. After lying neglected for some time +they were placed in their present position by Mr. Sheppard, who bestowed +so much care on all the "antiquities" connected with the cathedral. These +columns are believed by experts to be undoubted relics of Roman work: they +are of circular form with Ionic capitals. A curious ropework decoration on +the bases is said to be characteristically Roman, occurs on a monument +outside the Porta Maggiore at Rome. + +#The Deanery# is a very much revised version of what once was the "New +Lodging," a building set up for the entertainment of strangers by Prior +Goldstone at the beginning of the sixteenth century. Nicholas Wotton, the +first Dean, chose this mansion for his abode, but since his day the +building has been very materially altered. + +[Illustration: NORMAN STAIRCASE IN THE CLOSE +(FROM A PHOTOGRAPH BY CARL NORMAN AND CO.).] + +[Illustration: DETAILS OF THE NORMAN STAIRCASE IN THE CLOSE.] + +The main gate of the #Green Court# is noticeable as a choice specimen of +Norman work; on its northern side formerly stood the Aula Nova which was +built in the twelfth century; the modern buildings which house the King's +School have supplanted the hall itself, but the splendid staircase, a +perfect example of Norman style and quite unrivalled in England, is +luckily preserved, and ranks among the chief glories of Canterbury. + +The site of the archbishop's palace is commemorated by the name of the +street--Palace Street--in which a ruined archway, all that remains of the +building, may still be seen. This mansion, in which so many royal and +imperial guests had been entertained with "solemne dauncing" and other +good cheer, was pillaged and destroyed by the Puritans; since then the +archbishops have had no official house in their cathedral city. + +[Illustration: DETAILS OF ORNAMENT.] + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +INTERIOR. + + +Dean Stanley tells us that in the days of our Saxon forefathers and for +some time after, "all disputes throughout the whole kingdom that could not +be legally referred to the king's court or to the hundreds of counties" +were heard and judged on in the south porch of Canterbury Cathedral. This +was always the principal entrance, and was known in early days as the +"Suthdure" by which name it is often mentioned in "the law books of the +ancient kings." Through this door we enter the nave of the cathedral; this +part of the building was erected towards the end of the fourteenth +century; Lanfranc's nave seems to have fallen into an unsafe and ruinous +state, so much so that in December, 1378, Sudbury, who was then +archbishop, "issued a mandate addressed to all ecclesiastical persons in +his diocese enjoining them to solicit subscriptions for rebuilding the +nave of the church, '_propter ipsius notoriam et evidentem ruinam_' and +granting forty days' indulgence to all contributors." Archbishop Courtenay +gave a thousand marks and more for the building fund, and Archbishop +Arundell gave a similar contribution, as well as the five bells which were +known as the "Arundell ryng." We are told also that "King Henry the 4th +helped to build up a good part of the Body of the Chirch." The immediate +direction of the work was in the hands of Prior Chillenden, already +frequently mentioned; his epitaph, quoted by Professor Willis, states that +"Here lieth Thomas Chyllindene formerly Prior of this Church, _Decretorum +Doctor egregius_, who caused the nave of this Church and divers other +buildings to be made anew. Who after nobly ruling as prior of this Church +for twenty years twenty five weeks and five days, at length on the day of +the assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary closed his last day. In the +year of the Lord 1411." It is not certain that Chillenden actually +designed the buildings which were erected under his care, with which his +name is connected. For we know that work which was conceived and executed +by humble monks was ascribed as a matter of course to the head of the +monastery, under whose auspices and sanction it was carried out. Matthew +Paris records that a new oaken roof, well covered with lead, was built for +the aisles and tower of St. Alban's by Michael of Thydenhanger, monk and +_camerarius_; but he adds that "these works must be ascribed to the abbot, +out of respect for his office, for he who sanctions the performance of a +thing by his authority, is really the person who does the thing." Prior +Chillenden became prior in 1390, and seems at any rate to have devoted a +considerable amount of zeal to the work of renovating the ruined portions +of the church. + +[Illustration: THE MURDER OF ST. THOMAS A BECKET. + +(Restoration, by T. Carter, of a painting on board hung on a column near +the tomb of Henry IV.).] + +[Illustration: THE SHRINE OF ST. THOMAS A BECKET. + +(Specially reproduced from a drawing among the Cottonian MSS. Brit. Mus.)] + +The new #Nave# replaced the original building of Lanfranc. Professor Willis +says: "The whole of Lanfranc's piers, and all that rested on them, appear +to have been utterly demolished, nothing remaining but the plinth of the +side-aisle walls.... The style [of Chillenden's new work] is a light +Perpendicular, and the arrangement of the parts has a considerable +resemblance to that of the nave of Winchester, although the latter is of a +much bolder character. Winchester nave was going on at the same time with +Canterbury nave, and a similar uncertainty exists about the exact +commencement. In both, a Norman nave was to be transformed; but at +Winchester the original piers were either clothed with new ashlaring, or +the old ashlaring was wrought into new forms and mouldings where possible; +while in Canterbury the piers were altogether rebuilt. Hence the piers of +Winchester are much more massive. The side-aisles of Canterbury are higher +in proportion, the tracery of the side windows different, but those of the +clerestory are almost identical in pattern, although they differ in the +management of the mouldings. Both have 'lierne' vaults [_i.e._, vaults in +which short transverse ribs or 'liernes' are mixed with the ribs that +branch from the vaulting capitals], and in both the triforium is obtained +by prolonging the clerestory windows downward, and making panels of the +lower lights, which panels have a plain opening cut through them, by which +the triforium space communicates with the passage over the roof of the +side-aisles." Chillenden, then, setting to work with the thoroughness +that marks his handiwork throughout, rebuilt the nave from top to bottom, +leaving nothing of Lanfranc's original structure save the "plinth of the +side-aisle walls," which still remains. The resemblance between the naves +of Canterbury and Winchester, pointed out by Professor Willis, will at +once strike a close observer, though the greater boldness of character +shown in the Winchester architecture is by no means the only point of +difference. The most obvious feature in the Canterbury nave--a point which +renders its arrangement unique among the cathedrals both of England and +the Continent--is the curious manner in which the choir is raised aloft +above the level of the floor; this is owing to the fact that it stands +immediately above the crypt; the flight of steps which is therefore +necessarily placed between the choir and the nave adds considerably to the +general effect of our first view of the interior. On the other hand, the +raising of the choir is probably to some extent responsible for the great +height of the nave in comparison with its length, a point which spoils its +effectiveness when we view it from end to end. Stanley, in describing the +entrance of the pilgrims into the cathedral, points out how different a +scene must have met their eyes. "The external aspect of the cathedral +itself," he says, "with the exception of the numerous statues which then +filled its now vacant niches, must have been much what it is now. Not so +its interior. Bright colours on the roof, on the windows, on the +monuments; hangings suspended from the rods which may still be seen +running from pillar to pillar; chapels, and altars, and chantries +intercepting the view, where now all is clear, must have rendered it so +different, that at first we should hardly recognize it to be the same +building." The pilgrims on entering were met by a monk, who sprinkled +their heads with holy water from a "sprengel," and, owing to the crowd of +devout visitors, they generally had to wait some time before they could +proceed towards a view of the shrine. Chaucer relates that the "pardoner, +and the miller, and other lewd sots," whiled away the time with staring at +the painted windows which then adorned the nave, and wondering what they +were supposed to represent: + + "'He beareth a ball-staff,' quoth the one, 'and also a rake's end;' + 'Thou failest,' quoth the miller, 'thou hast not well thy mind; + It is a spear, if thou canst see, with a prick set before, + To push adown his enemy, and through the shoulder bore.'" + +[Illustration: CAPITALS OF COLUMNS IN THE EASTERN APSE.] + +None of these windows now remain entire, though the west window has been +put together out of fragments of the ancient glass. The latter-day +pilgrims will do well to look as little as possible at the hideous glass +which the Philistinism of modern piety has inserted, during the last +half-century, in the windows of the clerestory and the nave. Its obtrusive +unpleasantness make one wish that "Blue Dick" and his Puritan troopers +might once more be let loose, under judicious direction, for half an hour +on the cathedral. When Erasmus visited Canterbury, the nave contained +nothing but some books chained to the pillars, among them the "Gospel of +Nicodemus"--printed by Wynkyn de Worde in 1509--and the "tomb of some +person unknown." The last words must refer either to the chapel in the +south wall, which was built by Lady Joan Brenchley in 1447, and removed in +1787, or to the monument of Archbishop William Wittlesey, who died in +1374, and was interred in the south side of the nave in a marble tomb with +a brass, now destroyed. At present the south aisle contains a monument, in +alabaster, to Dr. Broughton, sometime Bishop of Sydney, who was educated +in the King's School, under the shadow of the cathedral. The figure is +recumbent, and the base of the monument, which is by Lough, is decorated +with the arms of the six Australian sees. In the north aisle we find +monuments to Orlando Gibbons, Charles I.'s organist; Adrian Saravia, +prebendary of Canterbury, and the friend of Hooker, the author of the +"Ecclesiastical Polity;" Sir John Boys, who founded a hospital for the +poor outside the north gate of the town, and died in 1614; Dean Lyall, who +died in 1857; and Archbishop Sumner, who died in 1862. These last two +monuments are by Phillips and H. Weekes, R.A., respectively. + +#The Central Tower.#--In the nave the whole of Lanfranc's work was +destroyed, but in the central tower, which we will next examine, the +original supporting piers were left standing, though they were covered +over by Prior Chillenden with work more in keeping with the style in which +he had renewed the nave. "Of the tower piers," says Willis, "the western +are probably mere casings of the original, and the eastern certainly +appendages to the original.... Of course I have no evidence to show how +much of Lanfranc's piers was allowed to remain in the heart of the work. +The interior faces of the tower walls appear to have been brought forward +by a lining so as to increase their thickness and the strength of the +piers, with a view to the erection of a lofty tower, which however was not +carried above the roof until another century had nearly elapsed." It was +Prior Goldstone the second who, about 1500, carried upward the central +tower, which Chillenden seems to have left level with the roof of the +cathedral. "With the countenance and help of Cardinal John Morton and +Prior William Sellyng he magnificently completed that lofty tower +commonly called Angyll Stepyll in the middle of the church. The vaulting +of the tower is his work--_testudine pulcherrima concameratam +consummavit_--and he also added the buttressing arches--with great care +and industry he annexed to the columns which support the same tower two +arches or vaults of stonework, curiously carved, and four smaller ones, to +assist in sustaining the said tower." The addition of these buttressing +arches, not altogether happy in its artistic effect, was probably rendered +necessary by some signs of weakness shown by the piers of the tower, for +the north-west pier, which was not so substantially reinforced as the +others, now shows a considerable bend in an eastward direction. The "two +arches or vaults of stonework" were inserted under the western and +southern tower arches. "The eastern arch having stronger piers did not +require this precaution, and the northern, which opened upon the +'Martyrium,' seems to have been left free, out of reverence to the altar +of the martyrdom, and accordingly to have suffered the dislocation just +mentioned." The four smaller arches connected the two western tower-piers +with the nearest nave-pier and the wall of the transept. The buttressing +arches are strongly built, and are adorned with curious bands of +reticulated work. The central western arch occupies the place of the +rood-loft, and it is probable that until the Reformation the great rood +was placed over it. The rebus of Prior Thomas Goldstone--a shield with +three gold stones--is carved upon these arches. + +#The Western Screen#, which separates the nave from the choir, is now more +commonly known as the organ-screen: it is a highly elaborate and beautiful +piece of work, and the carvings which decorate it are well worthy of +examination. In the lower niches there are six crowned figures: one +holding a church is believed to be Ethelbert, while it has been assumed +that the figure on the extreme right represents Richard II.: probably +Henry IV., who, as has been already mentioned, "helped to build a good +part of the body of the Church" has a place of honour here, but no +certainty on this matter is possible. The thirteen mitred niches which +encircle the arch once contained figures of Christ and the twelve +Apostles, but these were destroyed by the Puritans. The exact date of this +outward screen is uncertain, but it was set up at some time during the +fifteenth century. "A little examination," says Willis, "of its central +archway will detect the junction of this new work with the stone enclosure +of the choir." In fact, this archway is considerably higher than that of +De Estria which still remains behind it. The apex of this arch reaches but +a little above the capitals of the new arch, and the flat space, or +tympanum, thus left between the two, is filled with Perpendicular tracery. + +#The Choir.#--"In the year of grace one thousand one hundred and +seventy-four, by the just but occult judgment of God, the Church of Christ +at Canterbury was consumed by fire, in the forty-fourth year from its +dedication, that glorious choir, to wit, which had been so magnificently +completed by the care and industry of Prior Conrad" ("Gervase," translated +by Willis). The work of rebuilding was immediately begun by William, the +architect of Sens. At the beginning of the fifth year of his work, he was, +by a fall from the height of the capitals of the upper vault, "rendered +helpless alike to himself and for the work, but no other person than +himself was in the least injured. Against the master only was the +vengeance of God or spite of the devil directed." He was succeeded in his +charge by one "William by name, English by nation, small in body, but in +workmanship of many kinds acute and honest." Now in the sixth year from +the fire, we read that the monks were "seized with a violent longing to +prepare the choir, so that they might enter it at the coming Easter. And +the master, perceiving their desires, set himself manfully to work, to +satisfy the wishes of the convent. He constructed, with all diligence, the +wall which encloses the choir and presbytery. He carefully prepared a +resting-place for St. Dunstan and St. Elfege. The choir thus hardly +completed even with the greatest labour and diligence, the monks were +resolved to enter on Easter Eve with the 'new fire,'" that is, the +paschal candle which was lit on Easter Eve and burnt until Ascension Day. +The kindling of this light was carried out in a very ceremonious manner as +enjoined in Lanfranc's statutes. A fire was made in the cloister and duly +consecrated, and the monks, having lit a taper at this fire carried it on +the end of a staff in solemn procession, singing psalms and hymns and +burning incense, and lit the paschal candle in the choir with it. + +Thus was the new choir completed, in the sixth year after the burning of +Conrad's. This part of the cathedral will be peculiarly interesting to the +architectural student, owing to the curious mixture of styles, which +enables him to compare the Norman and Early English characteristics side +by side. A striking feature in the aspect of the building, as seen from +the choir, is the remarkable inward bend with which the walls turn towards +one another at the end of the cathedral. The choir itself is peculiar in +the matter of length (180 feet--the longest in any English church), and +the lowness of the vaulting. The pillars, with their pier-arches and the +clerestory wall above are said by Willis to be without doubt the work of +William of Sens: but the whole question as to where the French William +left off and his English namesake began is extremely uncertain, as there +can be no doubt that William of Sens had fully planned out the work which +he was destined never to complete, and it is more than probable that his +successor worked largely upon his plans. We are on safer ground when we +assert that the new choir was altogether different from the building which +it replaced. The style was much more ornate and considerably lighter: the +characteristics of the work of the Williams are rich mouldings, varied and +elaborately carved capitals on the pillars, and the introduction of +gracefully slender shafts of Purbeck marble. Gervase, in pointing out the +differences between the works before and after the fire, mentions that +"the old capitals were plain, the new ones most artistically sculptured. +The old arches and everything else either plain or sculptured with an axe +and not with a chisel, but in the new work first rate sculpture abounded +everywhere. In the old work no marble shafts, in the new innumerable ones. +Plain vaults instead of ribbed behind the choir." "Sculptured with an +axe," reads rather curiously, but Professor Willis points out that "the +axe is not quite so rude a weapon in the hands of a mason as it might +appear at first sight. The French masons use it to the present day with +great dexterity in carving." The mouldings used by Ernulf were extremely +simple, and were decorated with a "peculiar and shallow class of notched +ornament", of which many examples exist in other buildings of the period; +while the mouldings of William of Sens "exhibit much variety, but are most +remarkable for the profusion of billet-work, zigzag and dogtooth, that are +lavished upon them." The first two methods of ornamentation are Norman, +the last an Early English characteristic. This mixture is not confined to +the details of decoration but may be observed also in the indiscriminate +employment of round and pointed arches. This feature, as Willis remarks, +"may have arisen either from the indifference of the artist as to the +mixture of forms or else from deliberate contrivance, for as he was +compelled, from the nature of his work, to retain round-headed arcades, +windows, and arches, in the side-aisles, and yet was accustomed to and +desirous of employing pointed arches in his new building, he might +discreetly mix some round-headed arches with them, in order to make the +contrast less offensive by causing the mixture of forms to pervade the +whole composition, as if an intentional principle." + +[Illustration: THE CHOIR, LOOKING EAST +(FROM A PHOTOGRAPH BY CARL NORMAN AND CO.).] + +Whatever the motive, this daring mixture renders the study of the +architectural features of our cathedral peculiarly interesting. In the +triforium we find a semicircular outer arch circumscribing two inner +pointed ones. The clerestory arch is pointed, while some of the transverse +ribs of the great vault are pointed and some round. + +The inward bend of the walls at the end of the choir was necessitated by +the fact that the towers of St. Anselm and St. Andrew had survived the +great fire of 1174. Naturally the pious builders did not wish to pull down +these relics of the former church, so that a certain amount of contraction +had to be effected in order that these towers should form part of the new +plan. This arrangement also fitted in with the determination to build a +chapel of the martyred St. Thomas at the end of the church, on the site of +the former Trinity Chapel. For the Trinity Chapel had been much narrower +than the new choir, but this contraction enabled the rebuilders to +preserve its dimensions. + +#The Altar#, when the choir was at first completed by William, stood +entirely alone, and without a reredos; behind it the archbishop's chair +was originally placed, but this was afterwards transferred to the corona. +The remarkable height at which the altar was set up is due to the fact +that it is placed over the new crypt, which is a good deal higher than the +older, or western crypt. Before the Reformation the high altar was richly +embellished with all kinds of precious and sacred ornaments and vessels: +while beneath it, in a vault, were stored a priceless collection of gold +and silver vessels: such of these as escaped the rapacity of Henry VIII. +were destroyed by the bigotry of the Puritan zealots: the latter made +havoc of the reredos which had been erected behind the high altar, +probably during the fourteenth century, and also a "most idolatrous costly +glory cloth," the gift of Archbishop Laud. The reredos was replaced by a +Corinthian screen, which was of elaborate design, but must have been +strangely out of keeping with its surroundings; it was removed about 1870, +to make way for the present reredos which was designed in the style of the +screen work in the Lady Chapel in the crypt, but which cannot be commended +as an object of beauty. The altar coverings which are now in use were +presented to the cathedral by Queen Mary, the wife of William III., when +she visited Canterbury. A chalice, given by the Earl of Arundel in 1636, +is among the communion-plate. In his account of the building of the new +choir, Gervase tells us that "the Master carefully prepared a +resting-place for St. Dunstan and St. Elfege--the co-exiles of the monks." +When the choir was ready, "Prior Alan, taking with him nine of the +brethren of the Church in whom he could trust, went by night to the tombs +of the saints, so that he might not be incommoded by a crowd, and having +locked the doors of the church, he commanded the stone-work that inclosed +them to be taken down. The monks and the servants of the Church, in +obedience to the Prior's commands, took the structure to pieces, opened +the stone coffins of the saints, and bore their relics to the +_vestiarium_. Then, having removed the cloths in which they had been +wrapped, and which were half-consumed from age and rottenness, they +covered them with other and more handsome palls, and bound them with linen +bands. They bore the saints, thus prepared, to their altars, and deposited +them in wooden chests, covered within and without with lead: which chests, +thus lead-covered, and strongly bound with iron, were inclosed in +stone-work that was consolidated with melted lead." This translation +was thus carried out by Prior Alan on the night before the formal re-entry +into the choir: the rest of the monks, who had not assisted at the +ceremony, were highly incensed by the prior's action, for they had +intended that the translation of the fathers should have been performed +with great and devout solemnity. They even went so far as to cite the +prior and the trusty monks who had assisted him before the Archbishop, and +it was only by the intervention of the latter, and other men of authority, +and "after due apology and repentance," that harmony was restored in the +convent. + +[Illustration: THE CHOIR BEFORE RESTORATION.] + +The bones of St. Dunstan were long a cause of contention between the +churches of Canterbury and Glastonbury. The monks of Glastonbury +considered that they had a prior claim on the relics of the sainted +archbishop, and stoutly contended that his body had been conveyed to their +own sanctuary after the sack of Canterbury by the Danes; and they used to +exhibit a coffin as containing Dunstan's remains. But early in the +fourteenth century they went so far as to set up a gorgeous shrine in +which they placed, with much pomp and circumstance, the supposed relics. +Archbishop Warham, who then ruled at Canterbury, accordingly replied by +causing the shrine in our cathedral to be opened, and was able to declare +triumphantly that he had found therein the remains of a human body, in the +costume of an archbishop, with a plate of lead on his breast, inscribed +with the words "SANCTUS DUNSTANUS." In the course of the subsequent +correspondence which passed between the two monasteries, the Abbot of +Glastonbury, after trying to argue that perhaps part only of the saint's +relics had been conveyed to his church, at last frankly confesses "the +people had believed in the genuineness of their saint for so long, that he +is afraid to tell them the truth." This shrine of St. Dunstan stood on the +south of the high altar, and was erected after the manner of a tomb: +though the shrine itself perished at the time of the Reformation, there +still remains, on the south wall of the choir, between the monuments of +Archbishops Stratford and Sudbury, some very fine open diaper-work, in +what is known as the Decorated style, which once formed part of the +ornamentation of St. Dunstan's altar. The shrine of St. Elfege, or +Alphege, who was archbishop at the time of the sacking of Canterbury by +the Danes, and was murdered by them, has been altogether destroyed. + +#The Choir Screen#, a solid structure of stone we know to be the work of +Prior de Estria, _i.e._, of Eastry in Kent, who was elected in 1285, and +died in 1331. According to the Obituary record, he "fairly decorated the +choir of the church with most beautiful stone-work cunningly carved." In +his Register there is an entry which evidently refers to the same work: +"Anno 1304-5. Reparation of the whole choir with three new doors and a new +screen (_pulpito_)." The three doors referred to are the north and south +entrances and the western one. It has already been pointed out that the +present western screen is a later addition. Professor Willis, whose great +work on the Architectural History of Canterbury Cathedral should be +studied by all who wish to examine the details of the building more +closely than is allowed by the scope of this work, describes De Estria's +screen as follows: "The lateral portions of this wall of enclosure are in +excellent order. In the western part of the choir, namely, between the +eastern transepts and the organ-screen, this wall is built so that its +inner face nearly ranges with the inner faces of the pillars; but eastward +of the transepts it is built between the pillars. The north doorway +remains perfect. The present south doorway, which is in a much later +style, is manifestly a subsequent insertion. This enclosure consists of a +solid wall, seven feet nine inches in height from the pavement of the +side-aisles. It has a stone-bench towards the side-aisles, and above that +a base, of the age of William of Sens; so that it is clear that the work +of De Estria belongs to the upper part only of the enclosure, which +consists of delicate and elaborately worked tracery, surmounted by an +embattled crest.... The entire work is particularly valuable on account +of its well-established date, combined with its great beauty and +singularity." + +A portion of the choir-pavement, lying between the two transepts, is +interesting as being undoubtedly part of the original flooring of Conrad's +choir, and probably the only fragment of it that was left undisturbed +after the great fire which destroyed "that glorious choir which had been +so magnificently completed by the care and industry of Prior Conrad." This +part of the pavement consists of large slabs of a peculiar "stone, or +veined marble of a delicate brown colour. When parts of this are taken up +for repair or alteration, it is usual to find lead which has run between +the joints of the slabs and spread on each side below, and which is with +great reason supposed to be the effect of the fire of 1174, which melted +the lead of the roof, and caused it to run down between the paving stones +in this manner." It is said that when the choir was filled with pews in +1706, and it was necessary to remove part of the pavement, the men engaged +on the work picked up enough of this lead to make two large gluepots. + +[Illustration: A MISERERE IN THE CHOIR.] + +The original wooden #stalls of the choir# were described by the writer of a +book published in 1640. He relates that there were two rows on each side, +an upper and a lower, and that above the stalls on the south side stood +the archbishop's wooden chair, "sometime richly guilt, and otherwise +richly set forth, but now nothing specious through age and late neglect." +Perhaps the battered and shabby condition of this part of the cathedral +furniture accounts for its having survived the Puritan period; it is at +least certain that it remained untouched until 1704, when the refurnishing +of the choir was begun by Archbishop Tenison; he himself presented a +wainscoted throne with lofty Corinthian canopy adorned with carving by +Gibbons, while the altar, the pulpit, and the stalls for the dean and +vice-dean were provided with rich fittings by Queen Mary II. The tracery +of the screen was hidden by a lining of wainscoting, which was put before +it. This arrangement lasted little more than a century. In the time of +Archbishop Howley, who held office from 1828 to 1848, the wainscoting +which concealed the screen was taken away, and Archbishop Tenison's throne +has made way for a lofty canopy of tabernacle work. Some carved work, +which has been ascribed to Gibbons, still remains before the eastern front +of the screen, between the choir and the nave. + +The position of the organ has been frequently shifted. In Conrad's choir +it was placed upon the vault of the south transept; afterwards it was set +up upon a large corbel of stone, over the arch of St. Michael in the same +transept. This corbel has now been removed; subsequently it was placed +between two pillars on the north side of the choir, and, later on, it was +again transferred to a position over the west door of the choir, the usual +place for the organ in cathedral churches; finally it has been +"ingeniously deposited out of sight in the triforium of the south aisle of +the choir; a low pedestal with its keys stands in the choir itself, so as +to place the organist close to the singers, as he ought to be, and the +communication between the keys and the organ is effected by trackers +passing under the pavement of the side aisles, and conducted up to the +triforium, through a trunk let into the south wall." This arrangement not +only secures the retirement from view of the organ, which, with its +tedious rows of straight and unsightly pipes, is generally more or less an +eyesore in cathedrals, but is said to have caused a great improvement in +the effect of its music. The present organ, which was built by Samuel +Green, is believed to have been used at the Handel Festival in Westminster +Abbey in 1784. It was enlarged by Hill in 1842, and entirely reconstructed +in 1886. In this connection we may mention that Archbishop Theodore first +introduced the ecclesiastical chant in Canterbury Cathedral. + +The tombs in the choir are all occupied by famous archbishops and +cardinals. On the south side, hard by the site of the shrine of St. +Dunstan, is the tomb of Simon of Sudbury, who was archbishop from 1375 to +1381. He built the west gate of the city, and a great part of the town +walls; in consideration of these benefits the mayor and aldermen used at +one time to make an annual procession to his resting-place and offer +prayers for his soul. Outside Canterbury his acts were not regarded with +so much gratitude, for he was the inventor, or reviver, of the poll tax, +and was in consequence beheaded on Tower Hill by Wat Tyler and his +followers. Stanley relates that "not many years ago, when this tomb was +accidentally opened, the body was seen within, wrapped in cere-cloth, a +leaden ball occupying the vacant place of the head." Sudbury is also +famous as having spoken against the "superstitious" pilgrimages to St. +Thomas' shrine, and his violent death was accordingly attributed to the +avenging power of the incensed saint. Westward of his monument stands that +of Archbishop Stratford (1333-1348), who was Grand Justiciary to Edward +III. during his absence in Flanders, and won fame by his struggle with the +king. Between this tomb and the archbishop's throne lies Cardinal Kemp +(1452-1454), who was present at Agincourt in the camp of Henry V.; his +tomb is surmounted by a remarkable wooden canopy. Opposite, on the north +side, is the very interesting monument of Archbishop Henry Chichele +(1414-1443). Shakespeare tells us that he was the instigator of Henry V.'s +war with France, and it is supposed that out of remorse for this act he +built, during his lifetime, the curious tomb which now conceals his bones; +it is kept in repair by All Souls' College, which was founded by the +penitent archbishop that its fellows might pray for the souls of all who +had perished during the war; the effigy, in full canonicals, with its head +supported by angels, and with two monks holding open books, kneeling at +its feet, lies on the upper slab; and underneath is a ghastly figure in a +winding-sheet, supposed to represent the archbishop after death; the +diminutive figures which originally filled the niches were destroyed by +the Puritans, but have been to some extent replaced. The gaudy colours of +the tomb enable one to form some idea of the appearance of the churches in +the Middle Ages, when they were bedizened with painted images, hangings, +and frescoes: to judge from this specimen the effect must have been +distinctly tawdry. Further east we find the monument of Archbishop Howley; +he was chiefly remarkable as having crowned Queen Victoria and married her +to the Prince Consort, and his monument is noticeable as being the first +erected to an archbishop, in the cathedral, since the Reformation; he +himself lies at Addington. Beyond is a fine tomb well worthy of +examination, crowned by an elaborate canopy which shows traces of rough +usage at the hands of the restoring enthusiasts, who surrounded the choir +with classical wainscoting after the Restoration. It is the monument of +Archbishop Bourchier, a staunch supporter of the House of York; he was +primate for thirty-two years, from 1454 to 1486, and crowned Edward IV., +Richard III., and Henry VII. The "Bourchier knot" is among the decorations +which enrich the canopy of his tomb. + +#The South-East Transept.#--According to the present custom of the +Canterbury vergers, the visitor is led from the choir to the south-east +transept. "In the choir of Ernulf," says Willis, "the transepts were cut +off from the body by the continuity of the pier-arches and the wall above, +and each transept was therefore a separate room with a flat ceiling.... +But in the new design of William the transepts were opened to the central +portion, and the triforium and clerestory of the choir were turned at +right angles to their courses, and thus formed the side walls of the +transepts.... The entire interior of the eastern transept has been most +skilfully converted from Ernulfian architecture to Willelmian (if I may be +allowed the phrase for the nonce). It was necessary that the triforium and +clerestory of the new design should be carried along the walls of these +transepts, which were before the fire probably ornamented by a +continuation of those of Ernulf. But the respective level of these +essential members were so different in the old and new works that the +only parts of them that could be retained were the windows of the old +clerestory, which falls just above the new triforium tablet, and +accordingly these old windows may still be seen in the triforia of the +transepts, surmounted by the new pointed clerestory windows. But the whole +of the arcade work and mouldings in the interior of these transepts +belongs to William of Sens, with the sole exception of the lower windows. +Even the arches which open from the east wall of these transepts to the +apses have been changed for pointed arches, the piers of which have a +singularly elegant base." + +In the two apses of this transept altars to St. Gregory and St. John once +stood, and here were shrines of four Saxon primates. There is a window in +the south wall erected to the memory of Dean Alford; below it is the spot +on which the tomb of Archbishop Winchelsea (1294-1313) was placed. He was +famous for his contest with Edward I. concerning clerical subsidies, and +for having secured from the king the confirmation of the charter. He was +more practically endeared to the people by the generosity of his +almsgiving--it is said that he distributed two thousand loaves among the +poor every Sunday and Thursday when corn was dear, and three thousand when +it was cheap. His tomb was heaped with offerings like the shrine of a +saint, but the Pope refused to confirm the popular enthusiasm by +canonizing the archbishop; the fact, however, that it had been so +reverenced was enough to qualify it for destruction in the days of Henry +VIII. This transept is used at present as a chapel for the King's School, +a direct continuation of the monastery school, at which Archbishops +Winchelsea and Kemp were both educated. It contains the Corinthian throne +which was set up in the choir early in the last century. + +#The South-West Choir Aisle.#--At the corner of this aisle we may notice +the arcade which shows the combination of the Norman rounded arch and +double zigzag ornamentation with the pointed arch and dogtooth tracery of +William. Here also are two tombs, which have given rise to a good deal of +speculation. The more easterly one used to be regarded as the monument of +Hubert Walter, who was chancellor to Richard Coeur de Lion and followed +him and Archbishop Baldwin to Palestine, and, on the death of the latter, +was made primate in the camp at Acre: it is thought more probable, +however, in the light of recent research, that he is buried in the Trinity +Chapel. The other tomb used to be the resting place of Archbishop +Reynolds, the favourite of Edward II., but it also affords food for +discussion, as there is no trace of the "pall"--a Y-shaped strip of lamb's +wool marked with crosses, a special mark of metropolitan dignity which was +sent to each primate by the Pope--on the vestments of the effigy. Hence +conjecture doubts whether these tombs are tenanted by archbishops at all, +and inclines to the theory that they contain the bones of two of the +Priors, perhaps of d'Estria. From this point we can notice the ingenious +apparatus connected with the organ. + +#St. Anselm's Tower and Chapel.#--Proceeding eastward, towards the Trinity +Chapel, we pause to examine the chapel or tower of St. Anselm, which +corresponds to that of St. Andrew on the north side of the cathedral. Both +these chapels probably at one time were much more lofty, as they are +described as "lofty towers" by Gervase; it was in order to bring them into +the church, when it was reconstructed after the fire, that the eastward +contraction, which presents such a curious effect as seen from the choir, +was found necessary. They are now, as Willis points out, "only of the same +height as the clerestory of the Norman Church, to which they formed +appendages, and consequently they rose above the side-aisles of that +church as much as the clerestory did. The external faces of the inward +walls of these towers are now inclosed under the roof of William's +triforium, and it may be seen that they were once exposed to the weather." +The arches in St. Anselm's tower were originally set up by Ernulf, but +there is reason to believe that they were rebuilt after the great +conflagration. "The arch of communication," says Willis, "is a round +arch, at first sight plainly of the Ernulfian period, having plaited-work +capitals and mouldings with shallow hollows. A similar arch opens on the +eastern side of the tower into its apse. But a close examination will shew +that both these arches have undergone alteration.... I am inclined to +believe that both these arches were reset and reduced in space after the +fire, probably to increase their strength and that of their piers, on +account of the loss of abutment, when the circular wall of the choir-apse +was removed." The alterations that were made in these arches were probably +not important, and did not extend beyond the re-modelling of the mouldings +on the side of the arch towards the choir-aisle; for we may notice that +above both the arches we can still trace the notched decoration which is +peculiar to Ernulf's work. This chapel was originally dedicated to St. +Peter and St. Paul, and a very interesting relic of this saintly patronage +has lately been discovered. Apparently, in order to strengthen the +building, two of the three windows in the chapel were blocked up, and a +buttress was built across a chord of the apse, in the early part of the +thirteenth century. In the course of the restoration of the tower which +was recently carried out, this buttress was taken away, and its removal +laid bare a fresco painting, representing St. Paul and the viper at +Melita. This piece of decoration, as need hardly be said, must have been +put in before the construction of the buttress which has concealed and +preserved it for nearly seven centuries; it is conjectured, with a good +deal of reason, that a similar presentment of St. Paul +[Transcriber: St. Peter?] was painted at the same time on the opposite +wall, but as it had no buttress to protect it, it has been altogether +effaced. A copy of the fresco of St. Paul has been placed in the cathedral +library. The altar of SS. Peter and Paul stood at the east end, and behind +it was the tomb of the celebrated Archbishop Anselm, by whose name the +chapel is now commonly called. A very interesting feature of this tower +is a large and elaborate five-light window of the Decorated period. It +replaced the original south window of the chapel, and was inserted by +Prior d'Estria in 1336; it is remarkable as being one of the few instances +of Decorated architecture in the cathedral, and also because of the +detailed account that has been preserved of its erection and cost. The +passage in the archives runs as follows:--"Memorandum, that in the year +1336, there was made a new window in Christ Church, Canterbury, that is to +say, in the chapel of the Apostles St. Peter and St. Paul, upon which +there were expended the following sums: + + _L s. d._ +"Imprimis, for the workmanship, or labour of the + masons 21 17 9 +Item, for the breaking down of the wall, where the + window now is 0 16 9 +----for lime and gravel 1 0 0 +----for 20 cwt. of iron bought for said window 4 4 0 +----for the labour of the smiths 3 5 4 +----for Caen stone bought for same 5 0 0 +----for glass and the labour of the glaziers 6 13 4 + ----------- + Total 42 17 2." + +On the heads of the lights of this window were pendent bosses, like those +of the door in the choir-screen, which, as has been said, was also the +work of Prior de Estria. These bosses and the stones from which they were +suspended, have altogether disappeared, otherwise the internal tracery of +the window is in good preservation. "The outside, however, is in a very +bad condition for the purpose of the antiquarian; for, apparently on +account of the decayed state of its surface, the tracery has undergone the +process of splitting, namely, the whole of the outer part has been faced +down to the glass, and fresh worked in Portland stone; Portland stone +mullions, or _monials_ as they are more properly called, have also been +supplied. And as this repair was executed at a period when this class of +architecture was ill understood, the mouldings were very badly wrought, +which, with the unfortunate colour and surface of the Portland stone, has +given the window a most ungenuine air. However, the interior is as good as +ever it was, and it is on account of its date, as well as for its beauty, +a most valuable example" (Willis). + +The insertion of the window in question probably had the effect of +weakening the walls of the chapel; at any rate they show signs of a +tendency to settle. Beneath it is the tomb of Archbishop Bradwardine, a +great scholar and divine, whose primacy only lasted three months. Opposite +to him lies Simon de Mepeham--archbishop from 1328 to 1333--whose tomb +forms the screen of the chapel. It is a black marble monument well worthy +of examination, with a double arcade and a richly decorated canopy; the +ornamentation has been greatly damaged, but the shattered remains show +traces of beautiful work. Mepeham's short primacy was brought to an +untimely end by the contumacy of Grandisson, Bishop of Exeter, who refused +to allow him to enter Exeter Cathedral, actually guarding the west door +with an armed force. The pope sided with the recalcitrant bishop, and +Mepeham died, according to Fuller, of a broken heart in consequence of +this humiliation. + +#The Watching Chamber.#--Above the Chapel of St. Anselm is a small room, +which is reached by a staircase from the north-west corner. A window in +it commands a view into the cathedral, and from this circumstance it has +been inferred that a watcher was stationed here at night to protect the +priceless treasures of St. Thomas's shrine from pillage by marauders. Some +doubt has been thrown on this assumption, since the site of the shrine is +not fully seen from the window, but the room is still generally known as +the Watching Chamber. Probably the shrine was much more efficiently +guarded than by the presence of a solitary monk in a chamber, from which +even if he could see thieves he certainly could not arrest them; for we +know that "on the occasion of fires the shrine was additionally guarded by +a troop of fierce ban-dogs" (Stanley). It is also said that King John of +France was imprisoned in this chamber during his stay at Canterbury, but +this is most unlikely, seeing that he was treated by the Black Prince more +as a sovereign than as a captive. + +[Illustration: SOME MOSAICS FROM THE FLOOR OF TRINITY CHAPEL.] + +#Trinity Chapel.#--Passing further east, we ascend the flight of steps, +deeply worn by innumerable pilgrims, and enter the precincts of the +Trinity Chapel. All this part of the cathedral, from the choir-screen +to the corona, was rebuilt from the ground, specially with a view to its +receiving the shrine of St. Thomas. It is still, however, called by the +name of the Trinity Chapel, which previously occupied this site, and was +burnt down by the fire which destroyed Conrad's choir. In this chapel +Thomas a Becket celebrated his first mass after his installation as +archbishop, and his remains were laid for some time in the crypt below +it. This portion of the building was all carried out under the direction +of English William. Gervase relates that when William of Sens, after his +accident, "perceiving that he derived no benefit from the physicians, +returned to his home in France," his successor, English William "laid the +foundation for the enlargement of the church at the eastern part, because +a chapel of St. Thomas was to be built there; for this was the place +assigned to him; namely the Chapel of the Holy Trinity, where he +celebrated his first mass--where he was wont to prostrate himself with +tears and prayers, under whose crypt for so many years he was buried, +where God for his merits had performed so many miracles, where poor and +rich, kings and princes, had worshipped him, and whence the sound of his +praises had gone out into all lands." As to the extent to which the second +William was guided by the plans of his predecessor we have no means of +judging accurately. Certainly the general outline of this part of the +building must have been arranged by William of Sens, for the contraction +of the choir, in order to preserve the width of the ancient Trinity Chapel +had been carried out up to the clerestory before his retirement. Willis +deals with the subject at some length: "Whether," he says, "we are to +attribute to the French artist the lofty elevation of the pavement of +the new chapel, by which also so handsome a crypt is obtained below, must +remain doubtful. The bases of his columns, as well as those of the shafts +against the wall are hidden and smothered by the platform at the top of +these steps and by the side steps that lead to Becket's chapel. This looks +like an evidence of a change of plan, and induces me to believe that the +lofty crypt below may be considered as the unfettered composition of the +English architect.... The Trinity Chapel of the Englishman is under the +influence of the French work of which it is a continuation, and +accordingly the same mouldings are employed throughout, and the triforium +and clerestory are continued at the same level; but the greater level of +the pavement wholly alters the proportion of the piers to their arches, +and gives a new and original, and at the same time a very elegant +character to this part of the church compared with the work of the +Frenchman, of which, at first sight, it seems to be a mere continuation. +The triforium also of this Trinity Chapel differs from that of the choir, +in that its four pointed arches instead of being, like them, included +under two circular ones, are set in the form of an arcade of four arches, +of two orders of mouldings each. The mouldings are the same as in the +choir, but the effect of their arrangement is richer. Also in the +clerestory two windows are placed over each pier-arch, instead of the +single window of the choir. The mixture of the two forms of arches is +still carried on, for although the semicircular arch is banished from +the triforium, it is adopted for the pier-arches. + +"However, in the side-aisles of the Trinity chapel, and in the corona, +our English William appears to have freed himself almost as completely +from the shackles of imitation, as was possible. In the side-aisles the +mouldings of the ribs still remain the same, but their management in +connection with the side walls, and the combination of their slender +shafts with those of the twin lancet windows, here for the first time +introduced into the building, is very happy. Slender shafts of marble are +employed in profusion by William of Sens, and Gervase expressly includes +them in his list of characteristic novelties. But here we find them either +detached from the piers, or combined with them in such a manner as to +give a much greater lightness and elegance of effect than in the work of +the previous architect. This lightness of style is carried still farther +in the corona, where the slender shafts are carried round the walls, and +made principal supports to the pier-arches, over which is placed a light +triforium and a clerestory; and it must be remarked that all the arches in +this part of the building are of a single order of mouldings, instead of +two orders as in the pier-arches and triforium of the choir." + +So much for the architectural details of the Trinity Chapel. To the +ordinary visitor its interest lies rather in the fact that it contained +Becket's shrine, and that we here see the curious old windows portraying +the sainted Archbishop's miracles, and what is, perhaps, most important of +all to many, #the tomb of Edward the Black Prince#. This monument is the +first feature that we notice as we enter by the south-west gate of the +chapel; it stands between the two first pillars, and by the side of the +site of the shrine. By the Prince's will he had left directions that he +should be buried in the crypt, where he had already founded a chantry, +at the time of his marriage with the "Fair Maid of Kent" in 1363. But for +some unknown reason, probably in order that the dead hero's bones might be +placed in the most sacred spot possible--he was laid to rest by the side +of the martyr, then in the zenith of his sanctity. One of the most +romantic figures in English history is that of Edward the Black Prince, +who "fought the French" as no Briton, except perhaps Nelson, has fought +them since; he was sixteen years old when he commanded the English army +in person at the battle of Cressy, and was wounded in the thickest of that +most sanguinary fray: ten years later, facing an army of 60,000 men with +a mere 8,000 behind him, he inflicted a still more severe defeat on the +French at Poitiers, and captured their king, whom he took with him to +Canterbury on his triumphant return to London. In all our list of national +heroes there is not one who upheld the prowess of the English arms more +gallantly than this mighty warrior who was cut off while still in the +flower of his years, leaving England to the miseries of sedition and civil +war. His tomb is one of the most impressive of such monuments. The gilding +and bright colours have almost entirely disappeared, but the striking +effect of the effigy is probably only enhanced by the solemn sombreness of +its present appearance. It is a figure clad in full armour, spurred and +helmeted, as the Prince had ordained by his will. The head rests on the +helmet and the hands are joined in the attitude of prayer. The face, which +is undoubtedly a portrait, is stern and masterful. "There you can see +his fine face with the Plantagenet features, the flat cheeks, and the +well-chiselled nose, to be traced, perhaps, in the effigy of his father in +Westminster Abbey, and his grandfather in Gloucester Cathedral." The tomb +itself is worthy to support the figure and guard the ashes of the Black +Prince. Carved on its side clearly, that all might read it, is the +inscription which he had himself chosen; it is in Norman French, which was +still the language spoken by the English Court, and in the same spirit +which moved the designer of Archbishop Chichele's tomb to portray the +living man and the mouldering skeleton, this epitaph contrasts the glories +of the Prince's life--his wealth, beauty, and power--with the decay and +corruption of the grave. It is distinctly pagan in thought, and reminds +one strongly of the laments of the dead Homeric heroes as they wail for +the joys of life and strength and lordship. Stanley states that it is +"borrowed, with a few variations, from the anonymous French translation of +the 'Clericalis Disciplina' of Petrus Alphonsus composed between the years +1106 and 1110." But it is strangely un-Christian in sentiment as a few +lines will show-- + + "Tiel come tu es, je autiel fu, tu seras tiel come je su, + De la mort ne pensay je mie, tant come j'avoy la vie. + En terre avoy grand richesse, dont je y fys grand noblesse, + Terre, mesons, et grand tresor, draps, chivalx, argent et or. + Mesore su je povres et cheitifs, perfond en la terre gys, + Ma grand beaute est tout alee, ma char est tout gastee + Moult est estroite ma meson, en moy ne si verite non, + Et si ore me veissez, je ne quide pas que vous deeisez + Que j'eusse onges hom este, si su je ore de tout changee." + +Below this inscription are ranged coats-of-arms, bearing the ostrich +feathers and the motto _Ich Diene_ ("I serve"), which, according to +time-honoured but unauthenticated tradition, the prince won from the blind +King of Bohemia, who was led into the thick of the fighting at Cressy, and +died on the field. Welsh archaeologists, however, maintain that these words +are Celtic, and mean "behold the man;" their theory suggests that this was +the phrase used by Edward I. when he presented his firstborn son to the +Welsh people as their prince, and that the words thus became the motto of +the princes of Wales. This is a rather far-fetched piece of reasoning, and +one would certainly prefer to accept the more picturesque tradition which +connects the phrase with the glories of Cressy. The other word found on +these escutcheons--_Houmont_--is still more puzzling. We know that the +Black Prince was wont to sign himself _Houmont, Ich Diene_. Stanley +explains the combination gracefully, but not very convincingly. "If, as +seems most likely, they are German words, they exactly express what we +have seen so often in his life, the union of 'Hoch muth,' that is _high +spirit_, with 'Ich Dien,' _I serve_. They bring before us the very scene +itself after the battle of Poitiers, where, after having vanquished the +whole French nation, he stood behind the captive king, and served him like +an attendant." + +[Illustration: THE BLACK PRINCE'S TOMB +(FROM A PHOTOGRAPH BY CARL NORMAN AND CO.).] + +The tomb is surmounted by a canopy on which is painted an interesting +representation of the Trinity. The work is a good deal faded, but still +worthy of notice; the absence of the figure of the dove is curious, but is +not unparalleled in such designs. At the corners are symbols of the four +evangelists. The Holy Trinity--on whose feast-day he died--was held in +peculiar veneration by the Black Prince. The ordinance of the chantry +founded by him in the crypt contains the phrase, _Ad honorem Sancte +Trinitatis quam peculiari devocione semper colimus_. A curious metal +badge, preserved in the British Museum, is stamped with the figure of the +prince kneeling before the Almighty and our Saviour, whose representation +is almost identical with the design on the canopy over the tomb; here also +the figure of the dove is absent. Round the canopy and in the pillars we +can still see the hooks which upheld the black tapestry, bordered with +crimson and embroidered with _cygnes avec tetes de dames_, which was hung, +as ordained by his will, round the prince's tomb and Becket's shrine. + +[Illustration: SHIELD, COAT, ETC., OF THE BLACK PRINCE.] + +Lastly, above the canopy, on a cross-beam between two pillars, are +suspended the brazen gauntlets, the helmet, the wooden shield with its +moulded leather covering, the velvet coat emblazoned with the arms of +England and France, and the empty sheath. The gauntlets were once +embellished with little figures of lions on the knuckles; these have been +detached by "collectors," vandals almost as ruthless as Blue Dick and his +troopers, and without their excuse of mistaken religious zeal. The helmet +still has its original lining of leather, showing that it was actually +worn. The sword which fitted the now empty sheath is said to have been +taken away by Oliver Cromwell; it appeared in Manchester at the beginning +of this century under circumstances so curious, that we may be excused for +quoting the following letter from Canon Wray, given in Stanley's Appendix +on the Black Prince's will. "The sword, or supposed sword, of the Black +Prince, which Oliver Cromwell is said to have carried away, I have seen +and many times have had in my hands. There lived in Manchester, when I +first came here, a Mr. Thomas Barritt, a saddler by trade; he was a great +antiquarian, and had collected together helmets, coats of mail, horns, +etc., and many coins. But what he valued most of all was a sword: the +blade about two feet long, and on the blade was let in, in letters of +gold, 'EDWARDUS WALLIE PRINCEPS'.... He was in possession of this sword +A.D. 1794. He told me he purchased many of the ancient relics of a pedlar, +who travelled through the country selling earthenware, and I think he said +he got this sword from this pedlar. When Barritt died, in 1820, his +curiosities were sold by his widow at a raffle, but I believe this sword +was not amongst the articles so disposed of. It had probably been disposed +of beforehand, but to whom I never knew; yet I think it not unlikely that +it is still in the neighbourhood. The sword was a little curved, +scimitar-like, rather thick, broad blade, and had every appearance of +being the Black Prince's sword." Truly a most remarkable story. This +historic blade, which may have hewn down the French ranks at Poitiers, is +disposed of by an itinerant crockery vender to an antiquarian saddler; on +his death is, or is not, "sold at a raffle" and--vanishes! + +[Illustration: WEST GATE.] + +These arms that hang over the prince's tomb are all that are left of +two distinct suits, one for war, and one for use in the joust and the +ceremonials of peace, which were, according to directions given in the +will, carried in the funeral procession through the West Gate and along +the High Street to the cathedral. The pieces which remain all belong to +the suit worn in actual warfare. + +The centre of the chapel looks curiously blank, being left so by the +thoroughness with which all trace of Becket's shrine was removed by the +reforming zeal and insatiable rapacity of Henry VIII. and his minions. The +effect of the bare stone pavement presents an impressive contrast to the +vanished glories of the shrine blazing with gold and jewels, as we read of +it. (For a description of the shrine and its history, see Chapter I.) The +exact place on which it stood is plainly shown by the marks worn in the +stones by the knees of generations of pilgrims as they knelt before it, +while the prior, with his white wand, pointed out the choicest of its +treasures. To the west, between the altar-screen--the unhappy effect of +which is painfully conspicuous from this point--and the site of the +shrine, there is some very interesting mosaic pavement, containing the +signs of the zodiac, and emblems of virtue and vice, an example of the +_Opus Alexandrinum_, which appears in the floors of most of the Roman +basilicas. A similar piece of mosaic work may be seen round the shrine of +Edward the Confessor at Westminster. Above the eastern end of the shrine a +gilded crescent was fixed in the roof, which still remains; the origin and +meaning of this emblem have been disputed with considerable heat, and many +ingenious conjectures have been framed to account for its presence here. +One theory regards it as an allusion to the tradition according to which +Becket's mother was a Saracen. But this legend is believed to be +comparatively modern, and, as Mr. George Austin points out, "even if the +legend of Becket's mother had obtained credence at that early period, it +may be observed that in the painted windows around no reference is made +to the subject, though evidently capable of so much pictorial effect." +Another solution would connect the crescent with the worship of the Virgin +Mary, who is often pictured as standing on the moon (comp. Rev. xii. 1). +Supporters of this theory lay stress on the fact that the Trinity Chapel +at Canterbury occupies the extreme east end of the church, which is +generally the site of the Lady Chapel, and that therefore the presence of +this emblem--if it can be connected with the Virgin--would be peculiarly +appropriate here. Mr. Austin propounded the explanation which is now most +generally accepted. "When the groined roof," he says, "was relieved of the +long-accumulated coats of whitewash and repaired, the crescent was taken +down and regilt. It was found to be made of a foreign wood, somewhat like +in grain to the eastern wood known by the name of iron-wood. It had been +fastened to the groining by a large nail of very singular shape, with a +large square head, apparently of foreign manufacture." He comes to the +conclusion that the crescent is one of a number of trophies which he +supposes to have once decorated this part of the cathedral, and he is +led to his conclusion by the fact that "more than one fresco painting of +encounters with the Eastern infidels formerly ornamented the walls (the +last traces of which were removed during the restoration of the cathedral +under Dean Percy, afterwards Bishop of Carlisle), and in one of which the +green crescent flag of the enemy seems borne away by the English archers. +Might not these frescoes have depicted the fights in which these trophies +were won?" Also, in the hollows of the groining which radiate from the +crescent, there were a number of slight iron staples, which Mr. Austin, +having shown that they cannot have supported either hanging lamps or the +covering of the shrine, believes to have upheld flags, horsetails, etc., +which formed the trophy of which the gilded crescent was the centre. We +know that Becket received the title of St. Thomas Acrensis owing to his +close connection with the knights of the Hospital of St. John at Acre. But +none of these explanations seem very convincing, and the history and +significance of the crescent in the roof seem likely to remain a mystery. + +Before we turn from Becket and his shrine to the other monuments in the +Trinity Chapel, we must call the attention of our readers to the stained +windows which depict the miracles of the sainted martyr. The chapel was at +one time entirely surrounded with glass of this sort, but only a portion +has survived the ravages of the Puritans. "Of these windows," says Austin, +"unfortunately but three remain, but they are sufficient to attest their +rare beauty; and for excellence of drawing, harmony of colouring, and +purity of design, are justly considered unequalled. The skill with which +the minute figures are represented cannot even at this day be surpassed; +it is extraordinary to see how every feeling of joy or sorrow, pain and +enjoyment, is expressed both in feature and position. But in nothing is +the superiority of these windows shown more than the beautiful scrolls and +borders which surmount the windows, and gracefully connect the groups of +medallions." Most of these windows probably contained representations of +Becket, and so were doomed to destruction by the decree of Henry VIII., in +which "his Grace straitly chargeth and commandeth, that henceforth the +said Thomas Becket shall not be esteemed, named, reputed, nor called a +saint, but Bishop Becket, and that his images and pictures throughout the +whole realm shall be put down and avoided out of all churches and chapels, +and other places; and that from henceforth the days used to be festivals +in his name shall not be observed, nor the service, office, antiphonies, +collects and prayers in his name read, but rased and put out of all +books." This proclamation was rigorously carried out though the stained +windows which come within its terms have, in some cases, escaped +destruction. For instance there remains a window in the south transept of +Christ Church Cathedral, Oxford, representing the martyrdom of Becket, but +it is interesting to note that even here the archbishop's head was removed +from the glass. Three of the windows of the Trinity Chapel have survived, +and fragments of others are scattered over the glass of the building. They +are entirely devoted to depicting the miracles of the martyr, which began +immediately after his death and reception--according to a vision of +Benedict--in a place between the apostles and the martyrs, above even St. +Stephen. + +The window towards the east on the north side of the shrine is divided +into geometrical figures, each figure composed of a group of fine +medallions; every group tells the story of a miracle, or series of +miracles, performed by the influence of the saint. The lower group +portrays the story of a child who was drowned in the Medway, and +afterwards restored to life by the efficacy of the saint's blood mixed +with water. The first medallion shows the boy falling into the stream, +while his companions pelt the frogs in the reeds by the river side; the +next shows the companions relating the story of the accident to the boy's +parents, and in the third we see the grief-stricken parents watching their +son's corpse being drawn out of the river. "The landscape in these +medallions is exceedingly well rendered; the trees are depicted with +great grace" (Austin). Unfortunately the medallions which complete this +story have been destroyed. The next group depicts the quaint story of a +succession of miracles which were wrought in the family of a knight called +Jordan, son of Eisult. His ten year old boy died, and the knight, who had +been an intimate friend of Becket in his lifetime, resolved to try to +restore his son with water mixed with the saint's blood. At the third +draught, as Benedict tells the story, the dead boy "opened one eye, and +said, 'Why are you weeping, father? Why are you crying, lady? The blessed +martyr, Thomas, has restored me to you!' At evening he sat up, ate, +talked, and was restored." But the father forgot the vow which he made in +the first moment of joy at his son's recovery, namely, that he would offer +four silver pieces at the martyr's shrine before Mid Lent. And once more +all the household was stricken with sickness, and the eldest son died. +Then the parents, though sore smitten themselves, dragged themselves to +Canterbury and performed their vow. The whole of this story with other +details for which we have no space may be accurately traced on this unique +window. The most striking is the central medallion of the group in which +the vengeance of the saint is shown forth. In the middle of a large room +we see a bier on which lies the dead son; the father and mother, overcome +with despair, stand at the head and feet of the body. Behind the bier are +several figures, which, from their "unusually violent attitudes expressive +of grief," Mr. Austin considered to be professional mourners. Above, +unseen by the group below, the figure of St. Thomas, clad in full +episcopal robes, holding a sword in his right hand, and pointing to +the corpse with his left, is seen appearing through the ceiling. "The +expression," says Austin, "of the various figures in the above +compartments, both in gesture and feature, is rendered with great skill. +In the execution of this story, the points which, doubtless, the artists +of the monastery were chiefly anxious to impress upon the minds of the +devotees who thronged to the shrine are prominently brought out: the +extreme danger of delaying the performance of a vow, under whatever +circumstances made, the expiation sternly required by the saint, and the +satisfaction with which the martyr viewed money offerings made at the +shrine." + +One of the other groups is noteworthy as proving that severe penances were +sometimes performed before the shrine. One medallion shows a woman +prostrating herself before a priest at the altar, while two men stand +near, holding formidable-looking rods. The next picture represents the two +men vigorously flagellating the woman with the rods; while, in the third, +one of the men is still beating the woman, who now lies fainting on the +ground, while the other is addressing the priest, who sits hard by +composedly reading his book. The other two windows contain representations +of the healings effected by the saint, which seem to have been of a very +varied character, to judge from the catalogue with which Benedict sums +them up. "What position," he asks, "in the Church, what sex or age, what +rank or order is there, which could not find something beneficial to +itself [_aliquid sibi utile_] in this treasure-house of ours? Here the +light of truth is furnished to schismatics, confidence to timid pastors, +health to the sick, and pardon to the deserving penitent [_paenitentibus +venia ejus meritis_, the last two words probably implying an offering]. +The blind see, the lame walk, the lepers are cleansed, the deaf hear, the +dead rise again, the dumb speak, the poor have the gospel preached to +them, the paralytic recover, the dropsical lose their swellings +[_detumescunt hydropici_], the mad are restored to sense, the epileptic +are cured, the fever-stricken escape, and, to sum up, _omnimoda curatur +infirmitas_." + +The last of these windows to which we must call the special attention of +our readers is one on the north side, representing a vision which Benedict +tells us that he saw himself. The martyr is seen coming forth from his +shrine in full pontifical robes, and making his way towards the altar as +if to celebrate mass. This window is noticeable as containing the only +representation that now exists of the shrine itself--for the picture in +the Cottonian MSS. evidently shows us, not the shrine, but its outer +shell, or covering. "The medallion," says Austin, "is the more +interesting, from being an undoubted work of the thirteenth century; and +having been designed for a position immediately opposite to and within a +few yards of the shrine itself, and occupying the place of honour in the +largest and most important window, without doubt represents the main +features of the shrine faithfully." + +On the north side of the Trinity Chapel, immediately opposite the tomb of +the Black Prince, is that of King Henry IV., who died in 1413, and his +second consort, Joan of Navarre, who followed him in 1437. This king had +made liberal offerings towards the rebuilding of the nave of the +cathedral, and it has been conjectured that one of the figures on the +organ-screen represents him: his will ordered that he should be laid to +rest in the church at Canterbury, and here accordingly he was buried on +the Trinity Sunday after his death. The tomb, with its rich canopy, is a +beautiful piece of work, and the figures of the king and queen are +probably faithful representations. A curious story was circulated by the +Yorkists, to the effect that Henry was never buried here, but that his +body was thrown into the water between Gravesend and Barking, during the +voyage of the funeral _cortege_ to Faversham, and that only an empty +coffin was laid in the Trinity Chapel. That this point might be cleared +up, the tomb was opened in 1832 in the presence of the Dean, and there the +king was found in perfect preservation, and bearing a close resemblance to +the effigy on the monument--"the nose elevated, the beard thick and +matted, and of a deep russet colour, and the jaws perfect, with all the +teeth in them, except one foretooth." + +In the wall of the north aisle, just opposite the king's tomb, is a small +chapel, built according to the directions contained in his will "that ther +be a chauntre perpetuall with twey prestis for to sing and prey for my +soul." The roof shows the first piece of fan-vaulting admitted into the +cathedral. On the eastern wall an account is scratched of the cost of a +reredos which once stood here, but has been entirely destroyed: it tells +us that the cost of "ye middil image was xix^s 11^d." This chapel was +doubtless used at one time as a storehouse of sacred relics. Two recesses +in the west wall have lately been chosen to receive certain archiepiscopal +vestments which were discovered in a tomb on the south side of Trinity +Chapel, which was long believed to be that of Archbishop Theobald. + +To the east of Henry IV.'s monument is the tomb of Dean Wotton, adorned +with his kneeling figure. He was the first Dean of Canterbury after the +reorganization by Henry VIII. Opposite to him is an unsightly brick +erection which was once intended as a temporary covering for the remains +of Odo Coligny, Cardinal of Chatillon and brother of Admiral Coligny, who +was one of the victims of the massacre of St. Bartholomew. The Cardinal +fled from France in 1568, on account of his leanings towards the tenets of +the Huguenots, and was welcomed by Queen Elizabeth. It is believed that +he died from the effects of a poisoned apple given to him by a servant. It +seems curious that the French Huguenots who settled in Canterbury never +provided him with a more fitting monument. + +Between this tomb and that of the Black Prince is the monument of +Archbishop Courtenay, who was primate from 1381 to 1396, and was +celebrated for his severity towards Wycliffe and his followers. He was +a large contributor to the fund for the re-building of the nave, which +perhaps accounts for the distinguished position of his tomb; the fact also +that he was executor to the Black Prince may be responsible for his being +buried at his feet. It is not, however, certain that his body actually +lies here, though the ledger book of the cathedral states that he was +buried within the walls of the church. It is known, however, that he died +at Maidstone, and that he ordered in his will that his remains should rest +there, and a slab in the pavement of All Saints', Maidstone, shows traces +of a brass representing the figure of an archbishop, whence it has been +concluded that Courtenay was in fact buried there, and that his monument +in Canterbury is only a cenotaph. + +[Illustration: TRINITY CHAPEL, LOOKING INTO THE CORONA, "BECKET'S CROWN," +WITH CHAIR OF ST. AUGUSTINE.] + +#Becket's Crown.#--The circular apse at the extreme east end of the church +is known as Becket's Crown. The name has caused a good deal of discussion. +The theory once generally received was to the effect that the portion of +Becket's skull which was cut away by Richard le Breton was preserved here +as a relic of special sanctity. We know that the Black Prince bequeathed, +by his will, tapestry hangings for the High Altar and for three others, +viz., "l'autier la ou Mons'r Saint Thomas gist--l'autier la ou la teste +est--l'autier la ou la poynte de l'espie est." The first and last are +evidently the altars at the shrine and in the Chapel of the Martyrdom, and +it has been contended that the altar "where the head is" was the altar of +which traces may still be seen in the pavement of the corona, or Becket's +Crown. Against this notion we must place the authority of Erasmus, whose +words plainly show that the martyr's head was displayed in the crypt: +"_hinc digressi subimus cryptoporticum: illic primum exhibetur calvaria +martyris perforata_ (the martyr's pierced tonsure): _reliqua tecta sunt +argento, summa cranii pars nuda patet osculo_." While Willis considers +that the term corona was a common one for an apse at the end of a +church, citing "Ducange's Glossary," which defines "Corona Ecclesiae" as +_Pars templi choro postica, quod ea pars fere desinat in circulum_; "at +all events," he concludes, "it was a general term and not peculiar to +Christ Church, Canterbury. The notion that this round chapel was called +Becket's Crown, because part of his skull was preserved here as a relic, +appears wholly untenable. There is at least no doubt that a relic of +some sort was preserved here, because we know from a record of the +offerings--Oblaciones S. Thomae--during ten years in the first half of the +thirteenth century, that the richest gifts were made at the shrine and in +the corona. And we know that the spot was one of peculiar sanctity from +the fact that the shrines of St. Odo and St. Wilfrid were finally +transferred thither. _Corpus S. Odonis in feretro, ad coronam versus +austrum. Corpus S. Wilfridi in feretro ad coronam versus aquilonem._" + +[Illustration: CHAIR OF ST. AUGUSTINE.] + +On the north side of the corona is the tomb of Cardinal Pole, the last +Archbishop of Canterbury who acknowledged the supremacy of the Pope. He +held office from 1556 to 1558, and died the day after Queen Mary. Here +stands also the patriarchal chair, made out of three pieces of Purbeck +marble. It is called St. Augustine's chair, and is said to be the throne +on which the old kings of Kent were crowned; according to the tradition, +Ethelbert, on being converted, gave the chair to Augustine, from whom it +has descended to the Archbishops of Canterbury. It is needless to say +that this eminently attractive legend has been attacked and overthrown +by modern criticism. It is pointed out that the original archiepiscopal +throne was of one piece only, and that Purbeck marble did not come into +use until some time after Augustine's death. From its shape it is +conjectured that the chair dates from the end of the twelfth century or +the beginning of the thirteenth, and that it may have been constructed for +the ceremony of the translation of St. Thomas' relics. It is in this +chair, and not in the archiepiscopal throne in the choir, that the +archbishops are still enthroned. From the corona we have a view of the +full length of the cathedral, which measures 514 feet, and is one of the +longest of English cathedrals. Of the windows in Becket's Crown, the +centre one is ancient, while the rest are modern and afford a most +instructive contrast. + +#St. Andrew's Tower, or Chapel.#--Leaving the Trinity Chapel, and +descending the steps, we find on our right the door of St. Andrew's Chapel +which is now used as a vestry. Formerly, it was the sacristy, a place from +which the pilgrims of humble rank were excluded, but where those of wealth +and high station were allowed to gaze at a great array of silken vestments +and golden candlesticks, and also the Martyr's pearwood pastoral staff with +its black horn crook, and his cloak and bloodstained kerchief. Here also +was a chest "cased with black leather, and opened with the utmost +reverence on bended knees, containing scraps and rags of linen with which +(the story must be told throughout) the saint wiped his forehead and blew +his nose" (Stanley). Erasmus describes this exhibition with a touch of +scorn. "_Fragmenta linteorum lacera plerumque macci vestigium servantia. +His, ut aiebant, vir pius extergebat sudorem e facie_," etc. The walls of +this chapel show many traces of fresco decoration: the pattern seems to +have consisted of a clustering vine tree spread over the roof. In the +north wall is a Norman chamber which originally served as the Treasury; +the door is still secured by three locks, the keys of which were held by +different officials. St. Andrew's Chapel is part of Ernulf's work, and the +peculiar ornamentation which marks his hand may be noticed over the arch +of the apse which terminates it. + +#The North-East Transept.#--Passing along the choir aisle, we see the old +Bible desk, holding the Bible which was originally placed there, and was +restored to this position by the late Bishop Parry. Next we enter the +north-east transept, which in its architectural features is practically a +repetition of the south-east transept, with which we have already dealt. +The monument to Archbishop Tait, designed by Boehm, is well worthy of its +surroundings. Above it, in the north wall, about ten feet from the ground, +we may notice three slits in the wall. These are what are called +hagioscopes. On the other side of the wall was a recess connected with the +Prior's Chapel. Through these hagioscopes--or "holy spy-holes"--the prior +could see mass being celebrated at the high altar and at the altars below +in the transept, without entering the cathedral. These transeptal altars +are in the Chapels of St. Martin and St. Stephen which occupy two apses in +the eastern wall. St. Martin is represented in a medallion of ancient +glass preserved in the modern window, as dividing his coat with a beggar. +Scratched on the walls are the names "Lanfrancus" and "Ediva Regina;" the +bodies of Lanfranc and Queen Ediva were removed to this transept after the +fire. Lanfranc originally lay in the old Trinity Chapel, and when this +building was levelled to the ground, he was "carried to the vestiarium in +his leaden covering, and there deposited until the community should decide +what should be done with so great a Father." Apparently the heavy sheet of +lead was removed, for Gervase goes on to say that "Lanfranc having +remained untouched for sixty-nine years, his very bones were consumed with +rottenness, and nearly all reduced to powder. The length of time, the damp +vestments, the natural frigidity of lead, and above all the frailty of the +human structure, had conspired to produce this corruption. But the larger +bones, with the remaining dust, were collected in a leaden coffer, and +deposited at the altar of St. Martin." Queen Ediva, as we learn from the +same authority, "who before the fire reposed under a gilted _feretrum_ in +nearly the middle of the south cross, was now deposited at the altar of +St. Martin, under the _feretrum_ of Living," an archbishop who died in +1020. Ediva, the wife of Edward the Elder, and a generous benefactress +to the cathedral, died about 960. + +From an early list of the subjects represented in the windows of the +cathedral, it appears that the north windows of the north-east transept +depicted the Parable of the Sower. The ancient glass, however, has been +displaced, and a good deal of it has been moved to the windows of the +north choir aisle, between the transept and the Chapel of the Martyrdom, +which are of great beauty, and should be examined carefully. In the +transept itself are windows in memory of Dean Stanley, Dr. Spry, and +Canon Cheshyre. + +On the wall of the choir aisle, close to the transept, we can trace the +remains of a fresco representing the conversion of St. Hubert. Further on, +there hangs a picture, by Cross, which is intended to represent the murder +of Becket. As a work of art it is not without merit, but its details are +entirely inaccurate. + +#The North-West Transept, or Chapel of the Martyrdom.#--The actual site +of the tragedy which rendered Becket and his cathedral famous throughout +Christendom was the North-West Transept, or as it was more commonly called +the Chapel of the Martyrdom. Hardly any portion, however, of this +structure as it stands actually witnessed the murder. In the time of +Becket the transept was of two storeys, divided by a vault, which was +upheld by a single pillar. The upper partition was dedicated to St. +Blaise, and the lower to St. Benedict. In the west wall, as now, was +a door which opened into the cloister. + +[Illustration: THE MARTYRDOM, NORTH-WEST TRANSEPT.] + +The story of Becket and his quarrel with Henry II. will be dealt with +in the next chapter. But before examining the spot on which he was +assassinated it is perhaps fitting to recall the events which immediately +preceded his death. Henry's wrathful exclamation, which stirred the four +knights to set out on their bloodthirsty mission, is well known. Whatever +we may think of the methods employed by these warriors--Fitzurse, de +Moreville, de Tracy, and le Bret were their names--we must at least +concede that they were gifted with undaunted courage. To slay an anointed +archbishop in his own cathedral was to do a deed from which the boldest +might well shrink, in the days when excommunication was held to be a +living reality, and the Church was believed to hold the power of eternal +blessing or damnation in her hand. These men--who were all closely +attached to the king's person, and were sometimes described as his +"cubicularii," or Grooms of the Bedchamber--arrived at the gate of the +archbishop's palace in the afternoon of Tuesday, December 29th, 1170. With +a curious want of directness they seem to have left their swords outside, +and entered, and had a stormy interview with Becket; enraged by his +unyielding firmness, they went back for their weapons, and in the +meantime the archbishop was hurried by the terrified monks through the +cloister and into the cathedral, where the vesper service was being held. +The knights quickly forced their way after him, and the monks locked and +barricaded the cloister door. But Becket, who bore himself heroically +through the whole scene, insisted that the door should be thrown open, +exclaiming that "the church must not be turned into a castle." Then all +the monks but three fled in terror. Those who stayed urged Becket to hide +himself in the crypt or in the Chapel of St. Blaise above. But he would +not hear of concealment, but preferred to make his way to the choir that +he might die at his post by the high altar. As he went up the steps +towards the choir the knights rushed into the transept, calling for "the +archbishop, the traitor to the king," and Becket turned and came down, and +confronted them by the pillar of the chapel. Clad in his white rochet, +with a cloak and hood over his shoulders, he faced his murderers, who were +now girt in mail from head to foot. They tried to seize him and drag him +out of the sacred precinct, but he put his back against the pillar and +hurled Tracy full-length on the pavement. Then commending his cause and +the cause of the Church "to God, to St. Denys, the martyr of France, to +St. Alfege, and to the saints of the Church," he fell under the blows of +the knights' swords. The last stroke was from the hand of le Bret, it +severed the crown of the archbishop's head, and the murderer's sword was +shivered into two pieces. Then the assassins left the church, ransacked +the palace, and plundered its treasures, and, lastly, rode off on horses +from the stables, in which Becket had to the last taken especial pride. + +Such is the brief outline of the events of this remarkable tragedy, for +a fuller account of which we must refer our readers to the excellent +description in Stanley's "Memorials of Canterbury." As we have already +said, the present transept has been entirely rebuilt; although not damaged +by the fire, it was reconstructed by Prior Chillenden at the time when he +erected the present nave. It is even doubtful whether the present pavement +is the same as that which was trodden by Becket and his murderers. A small +square stone is still shown in the floor of the transept, as marking the +exact spot on which the archbishop fell; it is said to have been inserted +in place of the original piece which was taken out and sent to Rome, but +there is little or no authority for this statement. On the other hand, we +read that Benedict, when he became Abbot of Peterborough, in order to +supply his new cathedral with relics, in which it was sadly deficient, +came back to Canterbury and carried off the stones which had been +sprinkled with St. Thomas's blood, and made therewith two altars for +Peterborough. + +In this transept an altar was erected, called the Altar of the Martyrdom, +or the Altar of the Sword's Point (_altare ad punctum ensis_), from the +fact that upon it was laid the broken fragment of le Bret's sword, which +had been left on the pavement. Also, a portion of the martyr's brains were +kept under a piece of rock crystal, and a special official, called the +Custos Martyrii, was appointed to guard these relics. + +The chief window in this chapel was presented by Edward IV.; in it we can +still see the figures of himself and his queen and his two daughters, and +the two young princes who were murdered in the Tower. It originally +contained representations of "seven glorious appearances" of the Virgin, +and Becket himself in the centre, but all this portion was destroyed by +Blue Dick, the Puritan zealot. The west window was the gift of the Rev. +Robert Moore, sometime Canon of Canterbury; it is an elaborate piece of +work depicting Becket's martyrdom and scenes in his life. + +Here also we see the very beautiful and interesting monument to Archbishop +Peckham (1279-1292), the oldest Canterbury monument which survives in its +entirety; even it has been encroached upon by the commonplace erection +adjoining it, which commemorates Warham who was archbishop from 1503 to +1532, and was the friend of Erasmus. + +#The Dean's Chapel.#--Eastward of the north-west transept is the chapel +which was formerly known as the Lady Chapel, but has latterly been named +the Dean's Chapel from the number of deans whose monuments have been +placed here. It stands on the site of the Chapel of St. Benedict, and was +built by Prior Goldstone, who dedicated it to the Blessed Virgin in 1460. +The usual place for the Lady Chapel in cathedrals is, of course, at the +extreme east end; but at Canterbury the situation was occupied by the +shrine of St. Thomas. The principal altar to the Virgin in our cathedral +was that in the crypt, in the "Chapel of Our Lady Undercroft." The +vault of the Dean's Chapel is noticeable. It is a fan vault, of the style +developed to so great perfection in the Tudor period, as shown in Henry +VII.'s Chapel at Westminster, and in the roof of the staircase leading to +the dining-hall of Christ Church, Oxford. The architecture of this chapel +is Perpendicular in style, and its delicate decoration should be carefully +noticed; the screen which separates it from the Martyrdom Transept is also +worthy of close attention. The monuments here are interesting rather than +beautiful. Dean Fotherby is commemorated by a hideous erection bristling +with skulls. Dean Boys is represented as he died, sitting among his books +in his library; it is curious that the books are all apparently turned +with the backs of the covers towards the wall, and the edges of the leaves +outwards. Here also is the monument of Dean Turner, the faithful follower +of Charles I. + +[Illustration: PART OF SOUTH-WESTERN TRANSEPT.] + +#The South-West Transept.#--Crossing the cathedral through the passage +under the choir steps, we find ourselves in the south-west transept, +which, together with the nave and the north-west transept, was rebuilt +by Prior Chillenden. In the pavement we see memorial stones to canons +and other departed worthies. Among them is the tombstone of Meric Casaubon, +Archbishop Laud's prebendary, and son of Isaac Casaubon, the famous +scholar. + +#St. Michael's, or the Warrior's Chapel.#--Eastward of the south-west +transept is a small chapel, generally known as that of St. Michael. In +position and size it closely corresponds with the Dean's Chapel on the +north side of the church. In general style there is also some resemblance, +but the vaulting of the roof is quite different; it is described by +Professor Willis as "as a complex lierne vault of an unusual pattern, but +resembling that of the north transept of Gloucester Cathedral, which dates +from 1367 to 1372." The exact date and the name of the builder of this +chapel are alike uncertain, but it probably replaced the old Chapel of St. +Michael at some time towards the end of the fourteenth century, and Willis +comes to the conclusion that it is most probable that its erection may be +ascribed to Prior Chillenden, and that "it formed part of the general +scheme for the transformation of the western part of the church." + +A curious effect is presented by the tomb of Stephen Langton, who was +archbishop from 1207 to 1228, and is famous as having compelled King John +to sign the Great Charter, and also as having divided the Bible into +chapters. His tomb, shaped like a stone coffin, is half in the chapel and +half under the eastern wall, and Professor Willis considers that it was +originally outside the wall, in the churchyard; "and thus the new wall, +when the chapel was rebuilt and enlarged in the fourteenth century, was +made to stride over the coffin by means of an arch." The reverence in +which Langton's memory was held is attested by the fact that his remains +must have lain under the altar of the chapel, a most unusual position +except in the case of celebrated saints. In the middle of the chapel is a +very beautiful and interesting monument erected by Margaret Holland, who +died in 1437, to the memory of her two husbands and herself. The monument +is of alabaster and marble, and represents the lady reposing with her +first spouse, John Beaufort, Earl of Somerset, and son of John of Gaunt, +on her left, and Thomas, Duke of Clarence, her second husband, on her +right. The latter was the second son of Henry IV., and, so, nephew of John +of Somerset the first husband; he was killed at the battle of Bauge in +1421. Leland thinks that this chapel was built expressly for the reception +of this tomb: "This chapel be likelihood was made new for the Honor of +Erle John of Somerset," but it is probably of rather earlier date than +would be allowed by this theory. The figures of Margaret and her two lords +are very fine and are interesting examples of fifteenth century costume. +As such they may be contrasted with the effigy of Lady Thornhurst, who +exhibits all the beauty of an Elizabethan ruff. Sir Thomas Thornhurst, +whose monument is hard by, was killed in the ill-fated expedition to the +Isle of Rhe. In the corner of the chapel is the bust of Sir George Rooke, +Vice-Admiral, who led the assault on Gibraltar by which it was first +captured. And the title of "Warrior's" Chapel is further justified by the +presence here of tattered standards, memorials of dead comrades, left by +the famous Kentish regiment, "the Buffs." + +[Illustration: THE CRYPT.] + +#The Main Crypt.#--Returning through the passage under the steps that lead +up to the choir, we turn to the right into the crypt which originally +supported Conrad's "glorious choir." On the wall as we enter we may notice +some diaper-work ornamentation, interesting from the fact that a similar +decoration may be traced on the wall of the chapter house at Rochester +for Ernulf who built the westward crypt, was afterwards made Bishop of +Rochester. Willis tells us that there are five crypts in England under the +eastern parts of cathedrals, namely, at Canterbury, Winchester, +Gloucester, Rochester, and Worcester, and that they were all founded +before 1085. "After this they were discontinued except as a continuation +of former ones, as in Canterbury and Rochester." This crypt of Ernulf's +replaced the earlier one set up by Lanfranc; Willis thinks it not +impossible that the whole of the pier-shafts may have been taken from the +earlier crypt. "The capitals of the columns are either plain blocks or +sculptured with Norman enrichments. Some of them, however, are in an +unfinished state." He describes minutely one of the capitals on the +south-west side. "Of the four sides of the block two are quite plain. One +has the ornament roughed out, or "bosted" as the workmen call it, that is, +the pattern has been traced upon the block, and the spaces between the +figures roughly sunk down with square edges preparatory to the completion. +On the fourth side, the pattern is quite finished. This proves that the +carving was executed after the stones were set in their places, and +probably the whole of these capitals would eventually have been so +ornamented had not the fire and its results brought in a new school +of carving in the rich foliated capitals, which caused this merely +superficial method of decoration to be neglected and abandoned. In the +same way some of the shafts are roughly fluted in various fashions. The +plain ones would probably have all gradually had the same ornament given +to them, had not the same reasons interfered." The crypt then stands as +it was left by Ernulf except that some of the piers were afterwards +strengthened and one new pillar was inserted in the aisle by William of +Sens, in order to fit in with the new arrangement of the pillars in the +choir which he was then rebuilding. It is therefore, of course, the oldest +part of the church, and remains a most beautiful and interesting relic of +Norman work in spite of the hot water pipe apparatus which now disfigures +it, and its general air of unkempt untidiness. There are signs, however, +that in this respect there is likely to be some improvement. The floor is +being lowered to its original level by the removal of about a foot of +accumulated dirt which had been heaping itself up for the last eight +hundred years and had at last entirely smothered the bases of the columns, +and it is even whispered that the part now cut off and used as the French +church, may be opened out and restored to its original position as part of +the main crypt. + +According to Gervase, the whole of the crypt was dedicated to the Virgin +Mary. Here stood the Chapel of Our Lady Undercroft, surrounded by +Perpendicular stone-work screens, from which the altar-screen in the choir +above was imitated. The shrine of the Virgin was exceedingly rich and was +only shown to privileged worshippers: traces of decoration may still be +seen in the vault above. It was at the back of this shrine that Becket +was laid between the time of his murder and his translation to the +resting-place in the Trinity Chapel. + +In the main crypt we may notice the monument of Isabel, Countess of Athol, +who died in 1292; she was heiress of Chilham Castle, near Canterbury, and +grand-daughter of King John. She was twice married, her second husband +being Alexander, brother of John Baliol, King of Scotland. The monument +of Lady Mohun of Dunster is in the south screen of the Chapel of Our Lady. +She was ancestress of the present Earl of Derby, and founded a perpetual +chantry. Lastly, here is the tomb of Cardinal Archbishop Morton, the +friend of Sir Thomas More, and the faithful servant of the House of +Lancaster; it was he who brought about the union of the Red and White +Roses by arranging the marriage of Henry of Richmond with Elizabeth of +York. As Henry VII.'s Chancellor he made great exactions under the +euphonious title of "Benevolences," and propounded the famous dilemma +known as "Morton's Fork," by which he argued that those who lived lavishly +must obviously have something to spare for the king's service, while those +who fared soberly must be grown rich on their savings, and so were equally +fair game to the royal plunderer. He lies in the south-west corner of the +crypt, and his monument, which has suffered considerably at the hands of +the Puritans, bears the Tudor portcullis and the archbishop's rebus, a +hawk or _mort_ standing on a tun. + +[Illustration: ST. GABRIEL'S CHAPEL.] + +In the south-east corner, under Anselm's Tower, is a chapel generally +known as that of St. John, sometimes as that of St. Gabriel. It has been +divided into two compartments by a wall. There are some very interesting +paintings[2] on the roof, representing Our Lord in the centre of the +angelic host, the Adoration of the Magi, and a figure of St. John; this +work is believed to be of the thirteenth century. The central pillar of +this chapel, with the curved fluting in the column and the quaintly +grotesque devices of the figures carved on the capital, is well worthy of +close examination. The grate that we see here was erected by the French +Protestants, large numbers of whom fled to England during the persecution +which was instituted against their sect in 1561. They were welcomed by +Queen Elizabeth, and allowed to settle in Canterbury, where the cathedral +crypt was made over to them to use as a weaving factory. It is possible +that the ridges in the floor of St. John's Chapel are marks left by their +looms, but more evident trace of their occupation is afforded by the +inscriptions in French painted on the pillars and arches of the main +crypt, and again by the custom which still survives of holding a French +service in the south aisle of the crypt; this part has been walled off +especially as a place of worship for the descendants of the French exiles, +and here service is still held in the French tongue. Alterations have been +lately made by which the French service is held in the Black Prince's +Chantry, and the part of the crypt formerly walled off has been merged +with the rest of the crypt, which is thus completely thrown open. Access +to the French church is now obtained from the crypt, and not from outside. +This chantry was founded by the Black Prince in 1363 to commemorate his +marriage with his cousin Joan, the "Fair Maid of Kent." Here, according to +the prince's ordinance, two priests were to pray for his soul, in his +lifetime and after; the situation of the two altars, at which the priests +prayed, can still be traced. On the vaulting we see the arms of the +prince, and of his father, and what seems to be the face of his wife. In +return for the permission to institute this chantry, the prince left to +the monastery of Canterbury an estate which still belongs to the Chapter, +the manor of Fawkes' Hall. This was a piece of land in South Lambeth, +which had been granted by King John to a baron called Fawkes. His name +still survives in the word "Vauxhall." + + [2] The above paintings are illustrated in Dart's "History of + Canterbury," 1726, and in "Archaeologia Cantiana," vol. xviii. + +[Illustration: IN THE MAIN CRYPT, WITH TOMB OF CARDINAL MORTON +(see p. 99).] + +#The Eastern Crypt.#--The eastern portion of the crypt, under the Trinity +Chapel and the corona, is a good deal more lofty than Ernulf's building. +We noticed the ascent from the choir and presbytery to the Trinity Chapel, +and it is, of course, this greater elevation of the cathedral floor at the +east end which accounts for the greater height of the eastern crypt. The +effect, both above and below, is exceedingly happy. The most striking +thing about the interior of the cathedral is the manner in which it +rises--"church piled upon church"--from the nave to the corona, and this +characteristic enabled William the Englishman to build a crypt below which +has none of the cramped squatness which generally mars the effect of such +buildings. "The lofty crypt below," says Willis, "may be considered the +unfettered composition of the English architect. Its style and its details +are wholly different from those of William of Sens. The work, from its +position and office, is of a massive and bold character, but its unusual +loftiness prevents it from assuming the nature of a crypt.... There is one +detail of this crypt which differs especially from the work above. The +abacus of each of the piers, as well as that of each central shaft, is +round; but in the whole of the choir the abacuses are either square, or +square with the corners cut off." + +It was in the smaller eastern crypt, which formerly occupied the site of +William's building which we are now examining, that Becket was hastily +buried after his assassination, when his murderers were still threatening +to come and drag his body out, "hang it on a gibbet, tear it with horses, +cut it into pieces, or throw it in some pond to be devoured by swine or +birds of prey." And from that time until the translation of the relics in +1220, this was the most sacred spot in the cathedral, and it was known, +down to Reformation times, as "Becket's tomb." Hither came the earliest +pilgrims in the first rush of enthusiasm for the newly-canonized martyr. +And here Henry II. performed that penance, which is one of the most +striking examples of the Church's power presented by history. We are told +that he placed his head and shoulder in the tomb, and there received five +strokes from each bishop and abbot who was present, and three from each of +the eighty monks. After this castigation he spent the night in the crypt, +fasting and barefooted. His penitence and piety were rewarded by the +victory gained at Richmond, on that very day, by his forces over William +the Lion of Scotland, who was taken prisoner, and afterwards, recognizing +the power of the saint, founded the abbey of Aberbrothwick to Saint Thomas +of Canterbury. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE HISTORY OF THE SEE. + + +The history of the See of Canterbury may be said to have begun with the +coming of Augustine, for there can be no doubt that it is owing to its +being the settling-place of the first messengers of the gospel in Saxon +England that Canterbury has been the metropolis of the English Church. +Pope Gregory, with his usual thoroughness, sent to Augustine, soon after +his arrival here, an elaborate scheme for the division of our island +into sees, which were to be gradually developed as Christianity spread. +According to his arrangement, there were to be two archbishops, one at +London and one at York. But we cannot regret that this scheme was not +carried out, as an archiepiscopal see is much more picturesquely framed by +the hills which encircle Canterbury than it could have been by the dingy +vastness of the political and social capital. + +#Augustine# reached England in 597, and found that his path had been made +easy by the fact that Bertha, wife of Ethelbert, King of Kent, was a +Christian. He soon effected the conversion of the king himself, and his +labours were so rapidly successful that at Christmas, 597, no less than +ten thousand Saxons were baptized at the mouth of the Medway. The +archiepiscopal pall, and a papal Bull, creating Augustine first English +archbishop, were duly sent from Rome, and the royal palace in Canterbury, +with an old church--Roman or British--close by, were handed over to him by +Ethelbert. The first archbishop died in 605, and was buried, according to +the old Roman custom, by the side of the high road which had brought him +to Canterbury. A few years later, however, his remains were transferred to +the Abbey of SS. Peter and Paul, which had then just been completed. + +Augustine was succeeded by one of the monks who had originally come with +him from Rome. The new archbishop's name was #Lawrence#; he had been +already consecrated by Augustine in his lifetime. This unusual measure was +thought to be necessary, as the Church had hardly yet established itself in +a strong position. Indeed, so weak was its hold over its rapidly acquired +converts, that when Ethelbert's son, who succeeded his father in 616, +backslid into the path of heathendom, the great majority of the people +followed the royal example, and Lawrence, together with the Bishops of +London and Rochester, prepared to leave England altogether, as a country +hopelessly abandoned to paganism. However, the archbishop determined to +make one more attempt to maintain his position, and succeeded in +terrifying the king, by a pretended miracle, into becoming a Christian. He +then recalled the two bishops who had already crossed to France, and on +his death, in 619, was succeeded by the Bishop of London, #Mellitus#. +Mellitus only held the Primacy till 624, when his place was filled by +#Justin#, who also had a brief archiepiscopal life, being succeeded in 627 +by #Honorius#. This archbishop held the see for twenty-six years, till 653, +and it was not until 655 that his successor was appointed. + +So far the archbishops had all been foreigners who had come over either +with Augustine or with the second company of missionaries who were +despatched by Gregory soon after Ethelbert's conversion. In 655, however, +a native Englishman, named Frithona, was consecrated by the Saxon Bishop +of Rochester, and adopted the name of #Deus Dedit#. He ruled at Canterbury +till 664, and after his death the see remained vacant for four years, +probably owing to the plague which was then wasting all Europe, and caused +the death of Wighard, a Saxon, who had started for Rome to receive his +consecration there. But in 668, #Theodore#, a native of Tarsus in Cecilia, +was appointed, and was welcomed by the members of the torn and divided +English Church. He devoted all his energy to centralizing and +consolidating the power of the archbishop, which had been hitherto largely +nominal. He journeyed all over England, correcting the prevalent laxity of +discipline and establishing the control of the metropolitan authority. He +went so far as to interfere with the Archbishopric of York, and with the +help of the king attempted to divide it into three sees. He was, +moreover, an enthusiastic scholar, and first diffused the study of Greek +in England. He had brought a copy of Homer with him, and is said to have +established a school of Greek in Canterbury. He died in 690, and after his +death there was no archbishop for three years. In 693, one #Brethwald#, an +English monk, some time Abbot of Reculver, was appointed to the see. The +Saxon Church shows that it had benefited by Theodore's rigorous +discipline, in that it was henceforth able to supply its own archbishops; +it had now securely established itself all over the country, and the last +home of paganism, which, curiously enough, held its own longest in Sussex, +had been finally converted in Theodore's time. Brethwald ruled till 731, +and was followed by #Tatwin# (731-734) and #Nothelm# (734-740). In 740 +#Cuthbert# became archbishop. He seems to have been an interesting +personage with a good deal of zeal for reform; he is recorded to have +assembled a synod at Cliff to discuss measures for the improvement of the +lives and behaviour both of clergy and laity. Probably at his instigation +the synod ordained that the Lord's Prayer and the Creed should be taught in +the vulgar tongue; he was the first archbishop buried in the cathedral. He +was succeeded by #Bregwin#, who held the see from 759 to 765. He was an +exception among the series of English primates, being of German origin. +During the rule of the next archbishop, #Jaenbert#, an attempt was made +to transfer the primacy from Canterbury. Offa, the King of Mercia, had +established himself in a position of commanding power, and wishing that +the seat of the chief ecclesiastical authority should be within his own +dominion, obtained a Bull from Pope Adrian I. by which an Archbishop of +Lichfield was created, with a larger see than that of Canterbury. Jaenbert +seems to have acquiesced, though doubtless most unwillingly, in this +arrangement, but in spite of the central situation of Lichfield, the +traditional claims of Canterbury were too strong, and Adulf was the first +and last Archbishop of Lichfield. #Athelard#, who succeeded Jaenbert in +790, had the primacy restored to him. The Northmen began their raids on the +English coasts at this time, and their ravages probably continued through +the days of his successors, #Wulfred#, #Feologild#, #Ceolnoth#, and +#Ethelred# (805-889). + +In 889 the learned #Plegmund#, formerly tutor of Alfred, was by his quondam +pupil's influence made Archbishop of Canterbury. It was during his time +that the sees of Wells for Somerset and Crediton for Devonshire were +established. + +#Athelm# (914-923). + +#Wulfhelm# (923-942). + +#Odo# (942-959), called "the severe," was born a pagan Dane of East +Anglia, but having been received into a noble Saxon family, was duly +baptized into the faith. He was appointed to the Wiltshire bishopric by +Athelstane, and combined in his person the characters of the warlike Dane +and the Christian churchman. Like his successor Dunstan, Odo made his +chief objects in life the maintenance of the Church's supremacy and the +reformation of the married clergy. He bore his archbishopric with much +pomp and dignity through the reigns of Edmund, Edred, and Edwy. He was +responsible for Dunstan's conduct on the occasion of King Edwy's +coronation, though it is not known how far he sanctioned the cruelties +subsequently practised on Elgiva. Odo reconstructed and enlarged the +cathedral. + +His immediate successor was #Elsi#, Bishop of Winchester, but this +archbishop died while on his way to Rome to receive his pall from the +Pope. + +#Dunstan# (960-988), the next archbishop, continued Odo's crusade against +the married clergy, which he conducted relentlessly. In many cases the +secular clergy were turned out of their livings to make room for members +of the regular monkish orders. Even with these harsh measures and the +employment of miracles the archbishop does not seem to have succeeded in +enforcing celibacy among the clergy. Dunstan was born in Somersetshire of +noble parents, and educated at the Abbey of Glastonbury. He became abbot +of that place, and Bishop of Worcester and London. At the coronation of +Edwy he intruded himself into the king's presence, and was afterwards +obliged to retire to Ghent. He held the See of Canterbury for twenty-seven +years, and on his death was buried in the cathedral, where countless +miracles are said to have been worked at his tomb. + +#Ethelgar# (988-989). + +#Siricius# (990-994). + +#AElfric# (995-1005). + +#Alphege# (1005-1012), Prior of Glastonbury, migrated thence to Bath, where +he founded the great abbey, afterwards united to the See of Wells. After +holding the See of Winchester for twenty-two years, he was translated to +Canterbury. When in 1011 Canterbury was sacked by the Danes, he was +carried off a prisoner, and on his refusal to ransom himself, was +barbarously murdered by his captors. His body was ransomed by the people +of London and buried at St. Paul's Cathedral, whence it was removed to +Canterbury by Canute. Subsequently, in the time of Lanfranc, he was +canonized. + +#Living# (1013-1020) also suffered much from the Danes, who from this time +continued their incursions until the reign of Canute. + +#Egelnoth# (1020-1038) is described as the first dean of the Canterbury +canons who seem to have acquired an ascendancy over the monks ever since +the massacre of the latter by the Danes in 1011. He restored the cathedral +after the damages inflicted by the invaders. + +#Eadsi# (1038-1050). + +#Robert of Jumieges# (1051-1052) was one of the many Normans who were +brought over into England by King Edward the Confessor; he took an active +part in the king's quarrel with the great Earl Godwin, and in the reaction +which followed against the Normans retired to Jumieges, where he remained +till his death. + +#Stigand# (1052-1070), Bishop of Winchester, held this see conjointly with +that of Canterbury. He was remarkable for his avarice. His espousal of the +cause of Edgar the Atheling led the Conqueror to regard him with +suspicion. William took the archbishop with him when he returned into +Normandy, and eventually dispossessed him, along with some other bishops +and abbots, at a synod held at Winchester in the year 1070. Stigand was +imprisoned at Winchester, where he eventually died, resisting to the last +the attempts made by the king to elicit information as to the whereabouts +of the vast treasures which he had accumulated and hidden. + +#Lanfranc# (1070-1089) was the first Norman Archbishop of Canterbury. He +was born at Pavia, and educated at the monastery of Bec, in Normandy, then +the most remarkable seat of learning existing in Europe. His conspicuous +abilities raised him to the position of prior of the monastery. He was +subsequently abbot of the new monastery which William of Normandy founded +at Caen, and on the deposition of Stigand was called over by that king to +complete the subjection and reform of the Anglo-Saxon Church, which task +he undertook with much zeal and not a little high-handed procedure. He +assisted the king in the removal of the Saxon bishops and the substitution +of Normans in their places, as also in the reformation of the great +English monasteries which appear to have fallen into considerable +disorder. Lanfranc's character was remarkable for its firmness, and +brought him into frequent collision with the imperious temper of his +royal master. On one occasion Lanfranc insisted on the restoration of +twenty-five manors which belonged to the archiepiscopal see, and which +had been appropriated by Odo, Bishop of Bayeux, William's half-brother. +William, however, continued to honour his able servant, and during the +king's absence in Normandy, Lanfranc held the office of chief justiciary +and vice-regent within the realm, and maintained his independent attitude +against all the world, refusing to go to Rome at the summons of the pope. +Lanfranc crowned William II., and as long as he lived did much to moderate +that monarch's rapacious attacks on the wealth of the Church. He rebuilt +the cathedral which had fallen into ruin, and founded the great monastery +of Christ Church. He was the author of a celebrated treatise in refutation +of the doctrine of Berengarius of Tours, on the subject of the Real +Presence, and was present at the council held in Rome by Leo IX., in which +Berengarius was condemned. He lies buried in the nave of his cathedral, +but the exact spot is not known. + +#Anselm# (1093-1109) was born at Aosta, and studied under Lanfranc at Bec, +when he succeeded him as Prior of the Convent, and subsequently became +abbot. He visited England on the invitation of Hugh the Fat, Earl of +Chester, and while there was called in by the king and made Archbishop of +Canterbury. Rufus had kept the see vacant, and appropriated the revenues +of this and many other Church properties, and was only induced by the fear +of impending death to appoint Anselm to the see. Anselm was with +difficulty persuaded to accept the post, but from that hour posed as the +firm champion of the rights of the Church, and the opponent and denouncer +of the king's exactions and the general immorality of the times. He +refused to receive his pall at the hands of the king, but eventually +agreed to take it himself from the high altar of the cathedral at +Canterbury. Though deserted by his bishops he held his own against the +king until an accusation of failing in his duty to supply troops for the +king's Welsh expedition drove him into exile and he made his way to Rome, +when his learning created much sensation and was enlisted against the +errors of the Greek Church on the subject of the procession of the Holy +Ghost. On his accession to the throne, Henry I., as part of his reversal +of his brother's ecclesiastical policy recalled Anselm from banishment and +filled up the vacant see. But Anselm remained firm on the subject of the +rights of the church in the matter of the investiture of the clergy, and +refused to consecrate the bishops who had received their investiture from +the king, or to do homage or swear fealty to Henry. The king, on his side, +was determined to uphold the rights of the crown and the matter was +referred to the pope. Anselm had to visit Rome in person, and meeting with +but lukewarm support from the pope agreed at last to a compromise, at Bec, +in 1106, by which the king surrendered the symbols of the ring and +crozier, while retaining his right to the oaths of fealty and homage. +Anselm returned to England and spent the last two years of his life in +comparative repose: he died at Canterbury, and was buried near Lanfranc, +but his remains were afterwards removed to the tower that bears his name. +After his death the see was again vacant for five years, and was managed +by Ralf, Bishop of Rochester, who was however made archbishop later; he +was a disciple of Lanfranc, but as an archbishop was unimportant. + +#William de Corbeuil# (1123-1136) was the first archbishop who received the +title of Papal Legate. He crowned King Stephen after solemnly swearing to +support the cause of Matilda, and is said to have died of remorse for his +conduct in the matter. He completed the restoration of the cathedral and +dedicated it with much pomp and display. + +#Theobald# (1139-1161), the next archbishop, had been Abbot of Bec, and was +a Benedictine. His importance as archbishop was much overshadowed by Henry +of Blois, Bishop of Winchester, and brother of King Stephen. The pope +granted him the title of "Legatus natus," which was retained by his +successors until the Reformation. The life of this prelate was one of +varying fortunes, and he was twice in exile. He eventually, along with +Henry of Blois, took an important part in the final compromise which was +effected between the factions of Stephen and Matilda. On his death the +see remained vacant for more than a year. + +#Thomas Becket# (1162-1170) was the son of a London merchant, and was +educated among the Augustinian canons of Merton, in Surrey. He came +under the patronage of Archbishop Theobald whom he accompanied when the +latter visited Rome. While still only a deacon Becket received many +ecclesiastical benefices, including the Archdeaconry of Canterbury. About +1155 he was appointed Chancellor, through the influence of Theobald, and +thenceforward, until he became archbishop enjoyed the most intimate +friendship and confidence of King Henry II. His magnificence and authority +during this period of his career exceeded that of the most powerful +nobles, and created much sensation in France whither he was dispatched to +demand the hand of the Princess Margaret for the king's infant son. When +offered the Archbishopric of Canterbury he is said to have warned the king +that his acceptance of the office would entail his devotion to God and his +order in preference to the interests of the king. He was however persuaded +to accept the primacy, and after being duly ordained priest was +consecrated archbishop by Henry of Blois, the Bishop of Winchester. + +From this moment onwards the entire character and attitude of Becket was +changed. He gave up his old pomp and magnificence and devoted himself to +monastic severity and works of charity: he furthermore insisted on +resigning his temporal offices, including that of chancellor, and engaged +on his lifelong struggle with the king on the subject of the privileges of +the clergy. + +Since the separation of the bishops from the secular courts by the +Conqueror, a gross system of abuse had arisen under which all persons who +could read and write could claim exemption from the jurisdiction of the +ordinary secular courts, and insist on being tried only before their own +ecclesiastical tribunal. The spiritual courts could inflict no corporal +punishment, and the result was that many guilty persons escaped punishment +at their hands, and the benefit of clergy came to mean a practical licence +to commit crimes. This was naturally in radical opposition to the judicial +policy of Henry II., and matters were brought to a climax by the +scandalous case of Philip Brois, a murderer, whom Becket rescued from the +king's justice and condemned to a totally inadequate sentence. The king +determined to clear the question of all doubt, and to this end drew up +the famous constitutions of Clarendon in which the clergy was subjected +equally with the laity to the common laws of the land. The archbishop took +the oath, but refused to sign the constitution, as he insisted on the +immunity of the clergy from all secular jurisdiction. On retiring from the +council he sought and obtained absolution from his oath at the hands of +the pope--Alexander III.--who, insecure in his own position, and unable +to dispense with the friendship of the King of England, maintained a +vacillating attitude in the quarrel between Becket and Henry. The king +now began a systematic persecution of the archbishop. He was pressed with +various charges, and finally was ordered to account for the moneys which +he had received from the vacant See of Canterbury and other ecclesiastical +properties in his capacity as Chancellor. There seems small reason to +doubt that the charge was an unjust one, and was merely employed by the +king as an instrument of offence against his political adversary. The +archbishop came before the council in all the pomp and panoply of his +office, and bearing his own cross, as he had been deserted by most of his +bishops. After an exciting scene he escaped before any definite judgment +was pronounced, and took refuge in France, where he was hospitably and +honourably received by King Louis VII. Here he continued his struggle +with the King of England. Henry seized upon the revenues of the See of +Canterbury, and banished all Becket's kinsmen, dependants, and friends. +Becket replied by solemnly denouncing the constitution of Clarendon, and +excommunicating all who should enforce them. After further contentions +and fruitless negotiations Henry issued a proclamation withdrawing his +subjects' obedience to the archbishop, enforced by an oath from all +freemen. This oath many of the bishops refused to take. The pope, under +temporary pressure from Becket's enemies, authorized the Archbishop of +York to crown the young prince Henry: and the supremacy of the See of +Canterbury over all England, being thus called in question, became +thenceforward one of the principal subjects of dispute between Becket and +the king. The action of the king was unpopular, and Henry, seeing that he +had gone too far, consented to enter on some sort of reconciliation with +Becket, who ventured to return to England. In spite of the manifest +danger in which he found himself, Becket, on his return to England, +continued his high-handed policy, excommunicating the Archbishop of York +and others of his enemies. On hearing of this conduct Henry's fury got the +better of him, and his famous exclamation led to the departure of the four +knights to Canterbury. They demanded the immediate removal of the +excommunication. Becket was hurried into the cathedral by the monks and +murdered at the altar. + +On his death he was immediately canonized, and many miracles occurred at +his tomb. Henry himself was ordered to do penance for his death. The fame +of his shrine brought countless pilgrims to Canterbury, which was thus for +the first time raised to a position of importance throughout the whole of +Europe. + +#Richard# (1174-1184), Prior of Dover, was the next archbishop: he had been +present at Becket's murder and helped to convey his body to the crypt. He +was somewhat indifferent to spiritual matters, and was chiefly occupied in +supporting the supremacy of the See of Canterbury over that of York, a +question which led to at least one scene of unseemly disturbance in which +the Archbishop of York nearly lost his life. One result of the quarrel was +the conferring of the title of "Primate of England," and "Primate of all +England," on the Archbishops of York and Canterbury respectively, by the +pope. + +#Baldwin# (1185-1190) was the first monk of the Cistercian order who held +the See of Canterbury. He came into collision with the Benedictine monks +with whom the election to the primacy had always rested, and whom he +attempted in vain to deprive of that privilege in favour of a body of +canons at Lambeth, which he purchased for the see. He accompanied Richard +Coeur de Lion to the Holy Land, and died in camp before Acre. + +#Reginald Fitz Jocelyn#, Bishop of Bath and Wells, was next elected, but +died before receiving the pall. + +#Hubert Walter# (1193-1205) was born at West Derham, in Norfolk, and +educated by Ranulph de Glanville: he was made Bishop of Salisbury, and +accompanied Richard I. to the Holy Land. When archbishop he held the +office of Justiciary, but was removed from the latter by a Papal Bull +since it compelled him to judge "causes of blood." He became chancellor, +and conducted the duties of his high offices in an admirable manner. The +laws enacted under Richard I. are said to have been drawn up by him, and +he completed the house of regular canons at Lambeth. He was buried in his +own cathedral where his effigy still remains. + +After some disputes on the subject of election, the Pope, Innocent III., +was appealed to and decided in favour of + +#Stephen Langton# (1207-1228) who was an Englishman of spotless character +and profound theological learning: he was consecrated at Peterborough by +Innocent III. The "fury of King John knew no bounds," he drove the monks +of Canterbury to Flanders, and refused to allow Langton to set foot in +England. The result of this conduct was the publication of the celebrated +Interdict, followed soon after by the personal excommunication of the king +and the absolution of his subjects from their oath of allegiance by the +pope. Philip of France was ordered to depose the English king, whose crown +was declared forfeited. Hard pressed by his enemies, and having alienated +his people from his cause, King John was driven to humiliating submission: +he promised to receive Langton and to restore the Church property, and +finally, formally resigned his crown into the hands of Pandulph, the Papal +Legate. Archbishop Langton was received with honour, and King John threw +himself at his feet and reconciled himself with the Church. He also +ordered a great council to meet at St. Alban's to settle finally the +restitution of the church property. Here, however, he was met by an open +declaration of the complaints of all classes. Langton, though elevated to +the primacy, entirely through the influence of the pope, proved himself a +staunch Englishman, and posed as the champion of national liberty against +the claims of both pope and king. It was he who produced to the +malcontents the Coronation Charter of Henry I., which the barons accepted +as a declaration of the views and demands of their party. He was at the +head of the barons in their struggle with the king, and his name appears +as that of the first witness to the famous Magna Charta. John at once +applied to the pope, and obtained from him the abrogation of the charter +and a papal order to Langton to excommunicate the king's enemies. This he +refused to do. John overran the country with foreign mercenaries, and his +cruelties eventually resulted in the barons summoning Louis of France to +their assistance. Langton was summoned to Rome to attend the Lateran +Council, and was detained there until the deaths of Innocent III. and King +John, after which he was permitted to return to his see and passed the +remainder of his life in comparative tranquillity, siding strongly with +the national party under Hubert de Burgh. He presided at the translation +of Becket's remains from the crypt to Trinity Chapel; he rebuilt much of +the archiepiscopal palace at Canterbury and he lies buried in his own +cathedral. He was the first who divided the Bible into chapters. + +#Richard de Wethershed# (1229-1231), Chancellor of Lincoln, was next +appointed, but died on his way back from Italy. After three more elections +by the monks which were all set aside by the pope, Honorius III., the +monks consented to accept + +#Edmund Rich# (1234-1240), treasurer of Salisbury: he was the son of a +merchant of Abingdon, and was educated at Oxford University. He had a +great reputation for learning and piety. He came into disfavour with the +king by his opposition to the marriage of his sister Eleanor to Simon de +Montfort. His sympathies were all on the side of the national party: he +procured the downfall of Des Roches and maintained the struggle against +the foreign favourites and papal exactions for which the reign of Henry +III. is notorious. At length he retired to the Cistercian Abbey at +Pontigny, which had formerly sheltered Becket and Langton, in despair at +the condition of England and of her Church. It was during his time that +the great movements of the Dominican and Franciscan friars reached England +and though the archbishop never actually joined their ranks, he was +doubtless much influenced by their teaching and example, and was himself +an itinerant preacher after leaving Oxford. He was canonized six years +after his death. He was succeeded by + +#Boniface of Savoy# (1241-1270), one of the king's uncles, whose violence +and warlike bearing made him a strange contrast to his predecessor. His +term of office was one long history of papal exactions from the English +clergy, and of the tyranny of foreigners, creatures of Henry III., over +the rights of the nation. The revenues of the See of Canterbury and the +enormous sums wrung from the clergy were squandered on foreign wars, and +the archbishop himself resided abroad. Boniface took a leading part in the +spoliation of the English Church: he was one of the king's council at the +so-called "Mad Parliament." + +#Robert Kilwardby# (1273-1278) was nominated by the pope, after a fruitless +election of their subprior by the monks. He was a very learned Dominican, +educated at Oxford and Paris. + +#John Peckam# (1279-1292) was, like his predecessor, nominated by the pope +after an education at Oxford and Paris; he also was a Franciscan. He was +at first a staunch supporter of King Edward I., whom he accompanied to +Wales. It is to be regretted that he supported the king in his cruelties +to the conquered Welsh and in the expulsion of the Jews. He firmly +defended the privileges of his see against first, the Archbishop of York, +and secondly, the king. It was in his time (1279) that the famous Statute +of Mortmain was passed. The exactions of the papacy had been considerably +lessened, and the Church was beginning to recover its wealth and national +character. Peckam died at Mortlake, and was buried in the transept of the +martyrdom at Canterbury, where his tomb and effigy still remain. + +#Robert Winchelsea# (1292-1313) was next nominated, king and clergy being +unanimous on this occasion, and at once proceeded to Rome, where he +remained some time before returning to England. Meanwhile, Edward I. had +demanded the enormous subsidy of one half their annual revenue from the +clergy. Winchelsea is said to have been responsible for the celebrated +Bull _Clericis laicis_ issued by Boniface VIII. in defence of the property +of the Church. On his return home the archbishop continued to lead the +clergy in their opposition to the king's demands, and paid the penalty in +the seizure of his whole estate for the king's use. He retired with a +single chaplain to a country parsonage, discharged the humble duties of a +priest, and lived on the alms of his flocks. When the war broke out Edward +sought to propitiate the clergy by restoring the archbishop to his barony, +and summoning him to a parliament at Westminster, where the clergy +abandoned their own ground of ecclesiastical immunity from taxation and +took shelter under the liberties of the realm, thus identifying themselves +with the popular cause in their opposition to the exactions of the king. +On his return from Flanders Edward accused Winchelsea of conspiring +against him in his absence, and the archbishop was again deprived of all +his possessions, and, after many privations, escaped to France. + +On the accession of Edward II. he was recalled and restored to his honour, +but subsequently became again the centre of revolution, and himself +excommunicated the king's favourite, Gaveston. He nevertheless continued +undisturbed in the discharge of his office until his death. During his +prosperous years Winchelsea was famous for his charities and liberality. +After his death he was regarded as a saint, and his shrine in the +south-east transept was removed by the commissioners of Henry VIII. at +the same time as that of Saint Thomas a Becket. + +#Walter Reynolds# (1313-1327) was appointed by the pope at the request +of the king, who had set aside an election of the monks. He was tutor and +subsequently Chancellor to Edward II. After Gaveston's death he became +Keeper of the Great Seal. He obtained many bulls of privilege from Rome. +In spite of the favour he had received from Edward II. he deserted him in +his troubles. His tomb remains in the south aisle of the choir. + +#Simon Mepeham# (1328-1333) was elected by the monks and consecrated at +Avignon. He was opposed in his visitation by Grandisson, the powerful +Bishop of Exeter, who refused him admission to his cathedral by force. He +was unsupported by the pope, and is said to have died of a broken heart in +consequence. His tomb forms the screen of St. Anselm's Chapel. + +#John Stratford# (1333-1348) was appointed by the pope at the request +of Edward III. He was educated at Merton College, Oxford, and became +Archdeacon of Lincoln and Bishop of Winchester. He was made Lord Treasurer +by Edward II., to whose cause he remained faithful during the short-lived +triumph of Isabella and the desertion of the archbishop. Edward III. made +him Lord Chancellor, in which office he was succeeded by his own brother, +Robert. Stratford had endeavoured to dissuade the king from entering on +the French war, and the king, hard pressed for money, had the archbishop +arraigned for high treason. Stratford fled from Lambeth to Canterbury, +where he excommunicated his accusers. He subsequently returned to London +and sheltered himself, not under his ecclesiastical immunity, but under +his privileges of parliament as a member of the House of Peers, a +significant landmark in the history of the English Church. The quarrel +between the king and the archbishop was amicably settled. + +Stratford held exalted opinions on the subject of clerical superiority, +and his arraignment, without the support of the pope, was a decisive blow +against the power of the Church. In his time, also, a layman was for the +first time appointed to the office of Chancellor, and Edward III. wrote a +letter to the pope protesting against the frequent papal nominations to +vacant English sees, which was followed up by the Statute of Provisors in +1350. Stratford died at Mayfield in Sussex, and was buried in his own +cathedral, where his monument still remains. + +#Thomas Bradwardine# (1349) was consecrated after election by the monks of +Christ Church after the death of John Ufford, the king's nominee, who died +of the Black Death before consecration. Bradwardine had been the king's +confessor. He was educated at Merton College, and was one of the best +geometers of his time, besides being the author of an important tract +against Pelagianism. + +#Simon Islip# (1349-1366), the king's secretary, built most of the palace +at Mayfield, and completed that at Maidstone. He founded and endowed +Canterbury Hall, now forming one of the quadrangles of Christ Church, +Oxford, in which he endeavoured to bring together the monastic and secular +priests. + +#Simon Langham# (1366-1368) had been Bishop of Ely, Treasurer of England, +and Lord Chancellor, and also Prior and Abbot of Westminster. On being +appointed a cardinal by the Pope Urban V., he resigned his archbishopric, +the temporal powers and revenues of which had been seized by the king, and +died at Avignon. + +#William Whittlesea# (1368-1374), a nephew of Islip, was translated from +Worcester. + +#Simon of Sudbury# (1375-1381) was Chancellor of Salisbury and Bishop of +London, whence he was transferred to Canterbury. As chancellor he proposed +the famous poll tax, which supplied the motive for Wat Tyler's rebellion, +and, as archbishop, caused to be imprisoned the priest, John Ball. He was +captured in the tower, and beheaded during Wat Tyler's rebellion; his body +was eventually removed to Canterbury, and buried in the south aisle of +the choir. He built the west gate at Canterbury, and a great part of the +city walls. + +#William Courtenay# (1381-1396) was, like his predecessor, translated from +the See of London. In a synod he condemned twenty-four articles in the +writing of Wycliffe, who was unjustly held responsible for the recent +rebellion. Much persecution of Wycliffe's followers ensued. Courtenay +succeeded in establishing his right to visit his province, although +opposed by the Bishops of Exeter and Salisbury. His monument adjoins that +of the Black Prince. + +#Thomas Arundel# (1396-1414) was translated from the See of York. He was +involved in the conspiracy for which his brother, the Earl of Arundel, was +executed, and was himself exiled. He was restored after Bolingbroke's +success, and received the abdication of Richard II. In 1400 the statute +_De haeretico comburendo_ was enacted, and Arundel began to put it in +force against the Lollards. He condemned Sawtree, the first English +Protestant martyr, to be burnt, and took a prominent part in the attack +upon Sir John Oldcastle. In the parliament of 1407 he defended the clergy +against the attempts of the Commons to shift the burden of taxation upon +the wealth of the Church. + +#Henry Chichele# (1414-1443) was educated at New College, Oxford. He became +successively Archdeacon of Dorset and of Salisbury, and Bishop of St. +David's. He supported Henry V. in his unjust claim to the crown of France, +and promised large subsidies from the Church for its support. There is no +doubt that this was a successful attempt at diverting the popular +attention from threatened attempts on the wealth of the Church. He was +reproached by the Pope Martin V. with lack of zeal in the interests of the +papacy in not procuring the reversal of the statutes of provisors and of +praemunire by which, amongst others, the papal power was held in check in +England. Among his foundations are the colleges of St. Bernard (afterwards +St. John's), and All Souls, at Oxford, and a library at Canterbury for the +monks of Christ Church. In his old age he was stricken with remorse for +his sin in instigating the French war, and applied to the pope for +permission to resign his see. Before a reply was received the archbishop +died, after holding the see for nearly thirty years, a longer time than +any of his predecessors. His tomb, constructed by himself during his +lifetime, is in the north aisle of the choir, and is kept in repair by +the Fellows of All Souls. + +#John Stafford# (1443-1452), Bishop of Bath and Wells, was nominated by +the pope with the king's consent on the recommendation of Chichele. He also +held the office of chancellor for ten years, but was undistinguished in +either office. He lies in the south aisle of the choir. + +#John Kemp# (1452-1454), Archbishop of York, succeeded. He was educated +at Merton College, and was Archdeacon of Durham and Bishop of Rochester, +Chichester, and London. He died at an advanced age, after a very brief +primacy, and was buried in the north choir aisle. + +#Thomas Bourchier# (1454-1486), Bishop of Ely, was next elected by the +monks. He was a great-grandson of Edward III. He was educated at Oxford, +of which university he became chancellor; he subsequently held the sees of +Worcester and Ely. His lot fell upon difficult times, and he endeavoured +to maintain a position of neutrality in the struggle between the two +Roses, and at last effected their union by performing the marriage of +Henry VII. with Elizabeth of York. He died soon after, and his tomb +remains at Canterbury. He was bishop for fifty-one years, out of which he +held the primacy for thirty-two years. He actively encouraged education, +and helped to introduce printing into this country. + +#John Morton# (1486-1500) was, like his predecessor, translated from Ely. +He was educated at Balliol College. Richard of Gloucester, after making +vain overtures to him, removed him from his office and committed him to the +Tower, and afterwards to Brecknock Castle, whence he escaped and joined +the Earl of Richmond on the Continent. After Bosworth he was recalled, and +on Bourchier's death was made archbishop. In 1493 he obtained a cardinal's +hat. In 1487 he was made Lord Chancellor, and continued for thirteen +years, until his death, in this office and in the confidence of the king, +whom he assisted in his system for controlling the great feudal barons and +in the exaction of "benevolence." His famous dilemma propounded to the +merchants was known as "Morton's fork." It was he who prevailed upon the +Pope to canonize Archbishop Anselm. His tomb, constructed during his +lifetime, may be seen in the crypt of his cathedral. + +#Henry Dean# (1501-1503) was translated from Salisbury; he held the Great +Seal, with the title of Lord Keeper, after the death of Morton. + +#William Warham# (1503-1532) was born of a good Hampshire family, and +educated at Winchester and New College. He was sent to Burgundy on a +mission to protest against the support of Perkin Warbeck by the Duchess +Margaret. He held the offices of Lord Keeper, Lord Chancellor, Master of +the Rolls, and Bishop of London. He crowned King Henry VIII., and +protested from the first against his marriage with Catherine. He was a +great rival of Wolsey, and retired from the court until the fall of the +cardinal. In the disputes of the time he embraced the side of the old +religion, and gave some countenance to Elizabeth Barton, the Nun of Kent. +The last part of his life was devoted to the cares of his diocese and to +letters, which he cultivated diligently. He was a personal friend of +Erasmus, whom he induced to visit England. His tomb remains in the +Transept of the Martyrdom. + +#Thomas Cranmer# (1533-1556) may be considered the first Protestant +archbishop. From the first he would only accept the archbishopric as +coming from the king without intervention of the pope. He was born of a +good family in Nottinghamshire, and was educated at Cambridge, where he +became fellow of Jesus. He was first brought to the king's notice by his +suggestion that the question of Catherine's divorce might be settled +without reference to the pope. The king set him to write on the subject, +and he was rewarded with the Archdeaconry of Taunton. In 1530 he +accompanied the Earl of Wiltshire to the papal court, and was there +offered preferment by the pope. He married the niece of Osiander, who had +himself written on the subject of the divorce. On Warham's death he +succeeded him in the primacy, and returned to England. As archbishop, +Cranmer pronounced the divorce against Catherine and crowned Anne Boleyn, +and was sponsor to the Princess Elizabeth, whom he baptized. After Anne +Boleyn's trial he pronounced her marriage void, and acted as her confessor +in the Tower. Throughout his primacy Cranmer actively supported the +reforming party. In 1539 he was one of the commissioners for inspecting +into the matter of religion. In 1545 he was accused of heresy by the +opposite party led by Gardiner, and would have fallen but for the support +of the king, who befriended Cranmer throughout his life, and sent for him +to attend his death-bed. Great changes had occurred at Canterbury. +Becket's shrine had been destroyed, and a dean and twelve canons were +established in place of the old monastery of Christ Church, which was +dissolved. Under Henry's will Cranmer was appointed one of the Regents of +the Kingdom and Executors of the Will, and it was he who crowned Edward +VI. who, like Elizabeth, was his godchild. Throughout the reign of Edward, +Cranmer earnestly supported the cause of the Reformation. The Six Articles +were repealed and the first Book of Common Prayer was issued. On the +death-bed of Edward, Cranmer signed the king's will, in which he appointed +Lady Jane Grey his successor. On the accession of Queen Mary he was at +once ordered to appear before the council and within a month was committed +to the Tower. In November, 1553, he was pronounced guilty of high treason, +but was pardoned on this count, and it was decided to proceed against him +as a heretic. In 1554 he was sent to Oxford, with Latimer and Ridley, +where he remained two years in prison and was condemned as a heretic by +two successive commissions. After the death of Latimer and Ridley, Cranmer +was degraded and deprived. It was after this that, in the hopes of saving +his life, he made his famous recantation. He was brought into St. Mary's, +and in his address to the people withdrew his recantation and declared +that his right hand which had signed it should be the first to burn. He +was hurried to the place of execution opposite Balliol College, and, when +the pyre was lighted, held his right hand in the flames till it was +consumed, and died, calling on the Lord Jesus to receive his spirit. + +#Reginald Pole# (1556-1558) a near connection of Henry VIII. then +succeeded. He was born in Worcestershire and was educated by the +Carthusians at Shene and at Magdalen College, Oxford. He was early +advanced to the Deanery of Exeter and other preferments. On leaving Oxford +he visited the universities of France and Italy and returned to England in +1525. Henry attempted in vain to secure Pole's support on the divorce +question, and on the appearance of his book, "Pro Unitate Ecclesiastica," +he was sent for by the king, and when he refused to come, an act of +attainder was passed against him. In 1537 Pole was induced to accept a +cardinal's hat. It is said that he was most unwilling to do so on the +ground that he contemplated marrying the Princess Mary and seating himself +on the English throne. He took an active part in promoting the Pilgrimage +of Grace and the second rising in 1541. He remained in Italy until the +death of Edward VI. On the accession of Mary he returned to England as +papal legate after the question of his marriage with Mary had been again +discussed and set aside through the influence of the Emperor Charles V. On +Cranmer's execution Pole was consecrated Archbishop of Canterbury. As +legate he absolved the Parliament and made a solemn entry into London. For +the next three years Pole was in sole management of the ecclesiastical +affairs of England, and was consenting to the persecutions which disgraced +the reign of Mary. He was at one time deprived of his legatine authority by +Pope Paul IV. who had wished for the elevation of Gardiner to the primacy. +The archbishop submitted to the pope and was again appointed legate shortly +before his death which occurred about the same time as that of Mary. He +was buried in the corona at Canterbury, where his tomb yet remains. He was +the last Archbishop of Canterbury to be buried in his own cathedral, until +the recent interment of Dr. Benson. + +#Matthew Parker# (1559-1575) was born of an old Norfolk family and educated +at Corpus Christi College, Cambridge. Wolsey invited him to become a +fellow of Christ Church, his new foundation at Oxford, but this he +declined. After various other offices he was appointed to the Deanery of +Lincoln by Edward VI. On the accession of Mary he was deprived of all his +offices as a married priest, and lived privately until the accession of +Elizabeth, who made him archbishop. He was duly elected by the new Chapter +of Canterbury, and held his post during a most difficult time with +marvellous tact and judgment. Religious toleration for its own sake was an +idea yet unknown, but Parker directed that great caution should be +observed in administering the oath of supremacy to those of the clergy who +still favoured the old religion. It is much to his credit that he managed +to preserve such good relations with the queen in face of Elizabeth's +prejudice against the marriage of the clergy. He was an enlightened patron +of learning, and did much to encourage all branches of art. + +#Edmund Grindall# (1576-1583) was born at St. Bees and educated at +Cambridge, where he became Master of Pembroke Hall. He was Chaplain to +Edward VI. During the troubles of Mary's reign he lived in Germany, and on +Elizabeth's accession became the first Protestant Bishop of London. Thence +he was removed to York and in 1575 was appointed as archbishop. He was +inclined to view the Puritans with more leniency than his predecessor and +always refused to forbid the prophesyings, or meetings of the clergy for +discussing the meaning of scripture, which Elizabeth disliked so much, and +was in consequence deprived of his jurisdiction. He went blind before his +death and was buried at Croydon. + +#John Whitgift# (1583-1604) was born at Great Grimsby and educated at +Cambridge, where John Bradford was his tutor: he became one of Elizabeth's +chaplains and Master of Pembroke Hall and of Trinity. He wrote an answer +to Cartwright's "Admonition" and was preferred to the Deanery of Lincoln +and Bishopric of Worcester. After Grindall's death he was translated to +Canterbury. From this date his severity towards the Puritans increased. He +insisted that every minister of the Church should subscribe to three +points: the queen's supremacy, the Common Prayer, and the Thirty-nine +Articles, and enforced his principle with much vigour, contrary to the +advice of the more enlightened Lord Burleigh. The severity of these +measures called into existence the "Martin Marprelate" libels and produced +much dissatisfaction and suffering among the more Puritanical clergy, +which was by no means lessened by the accession of James, who, on his way +to London rejected a petition signed by more than one thousand Puritan +ministers. Whitgift was buried at Croydon where he founded a school and +hospital. + +#Richard Bancroft# (1604-1610) was born near Manchester and educated at +Jesus College, Oxford. He became one of Elizabeth's chaplains, and Bishop +of London, whence he was translated to Canterbury. He was even more severe +than his predecessor against the Puritans, and was a most stern champion +of conformity. He advocated the king's absolute power beyond the law and +attempted to establish episcopacy in Scotland. He died at Lambeth and was +buried in the parish church there. + +#George Abbot# (1610-1633) was born at Guildford and educated at Balliol +College. He assisted in establishing union between the Scotch and English +Churches and was rewarded with the Bishopric of Lichfield and Coventry. +Thence he was translated to London, and on the death of Bancroft was +appointed to the primacy. In contrast to his predecessor he connived at +some irregularities of discipline in the Puritanical clergy. At the same +time he was a zealous Calvinist and hater of popery, and disapproved of +those who preached up the arbitrary power of the king. These latter views +rendered him unpopular with the courtiers and the party of Laud. The +accidental death of a keeper at the hands of the archbishop was utilized +against him by his enemies and he was with difficulty restored to his +archiepiscopal functions. On refusing to licence a sermon by Dr. +Sibthorpe, asserting the king's right to tax his subjects without their +consent, he was obliged to retire to his palace of Ford, near Canterbury. +He assisted at the coronation of Charles I., but never managed to win the +favour of that monarch. He died at Croydon, and was buried at Guildford, +where his tomb and effigy still remain. + +#William Laud# (1633-1645) was born at Reading, and educated at St. John's +College, Oxford. At the university he soon became conspicuous for his +hatred of the Puritans and his devotion to High Church doctrines. He +became President of St. John's in spite of the opposition of Archbishop +Abbot. He became successively one of the royal chaplains, Dean of +Gloucester, Bishop of St. David's, Bath and Wells, and London. He acted as +Dean of Westminster at Charles I.'s coronation. He was made Dean of the +Chapel Royal, Chancellor of Oxford, and a Privy Councillor of Scotland. On +Abbot's death he was elevated to the primacy, and is said to have refused +the offer of a cardinal's hat. As archbishop he was responsible for the +general Church persecution which produced his own unpopularity and +downfall, and was one of the main causes of the Civil War. Prosecutions +for non-conformity were enforced with the utmost severity. The courts of +Star Chamber and High Commission were brought to bear on the Puritans, and +Laud became universally detested. The superiority of the king over the law +was openly preached, and the Irish and Scotch Puritans were alienated by +the severity of the measures taken against them. On the common idea of +popular government, the Puritans were driven into coalition and +identification with the national party, while the king, court, bishops, +and judges represented the High Church movement and the doctrine of the +king's absolute authority. In 1639 the palace at Lambeth was attacked, but +the archbishop was removed to Whitehall and escaped for the time. In 1640, +however, he was impeached for high treason, and confined in the Tower. +Various charges were brought against him and fines inflicted, and his +property was seized and sold or destroyed for the use of the commonwealth. +The charge of high treason could not be legally established, and a bill of +attainder was passed against him in 1645. He was eventually beheaded on +Tower Hill, at the age of seventy-one years; his remains were interred at +Barking, but subsequently removed to the chapel of St. John's College at +Oxford. His conduct has been differently judged by his friends and +enemies. He built the greater part of the inner quadrangle of St. John's, +and presented a large collection of important manuscripts to the +university. In his time the archiepiscopal palace at Canterbury was ruined +by the Puritans, and on the Restoration an Act was passed dispensing the +archbishops from restoring it. From this time they have had no official +residence in Canterbury. + +#William Juxon# (1660-1663) was born at Chichester, and educated, like +his predecessor, at St. John's College, Oxford, where he attracted the +attention of Laud. He became successively President of St. John's, Dean of +Worcester, Bishop of Hereford, and Bishop of London. He also became Lord +Treasurer, a post which had been held by no churchman since the days of +Henry VII., and was the last instance of any of the great offices of State +being filled by an ecclesiastic. He attended Charles I. on the occasion of +his execution. On the Restoration he became Archbishop of Canterbury, and +died three years afterwards. He lies in the chapel of St. John's College. + +#Gilbert Sheldon# (1663-1677) was educated at Oxford, and became Fellow and +Warden of All Souls' College. He was a strong supporter of the king during +the Civil War. He was deprived of his wardenship and imprisoned by the +Parliamentarian commissioners when they visited Oxford. He retired to +Derbyshire until the Restoration, when he was restored to his wardenship; +he was made Dean of the Chapel Royal, and succeeded Juxon in the See of +London. In 1661 he assisted at the discussion of the liturgy between the +Presbyterian and Episcopal divines known as the Savoy Conference. In 1663 +he succeeded Juxon in the primacy, and in 1667 was elected Chancellor of +Oxford. He built the Sheldonian Theatre at Oxford, which building is an +early work of Sir Christopher Wren's. He offended the court party by his +open disapproval of the king's morals, and retired in 1669 to his palace +at Croydon, where he spent most of the remainder of his life. He was +buried at the parish church at Croydon, where his tomb and effigy still +remain. + +#William Sancroft# (1678-1691) was born at Fresingfield, in Suffolk, and +educated at St. Edmundsbury and at Cambridge, where he became Fellow of +Emmanuel College. He was deprived of his fellowship in 1649, and retired +to the Continent, where he remained until the restoration of Charles II. +He then returned to England, and subsequently became Master of Emmanuel +College, and Dean of York, and of St. Paul's, and Archdeacon of +Canterbury, and was raised to the primacy by Charles II., whose death-bed +he attended. In the reign of James he was at the head of the seven bishops +who presented the famous petition against the Declaration of Indulgence, +for which they were committed to the Tower, tried, and acquitted amidst +immense popular excitement. After James's flight, Sancroft acted as the +head of the council of peers who took upon themselves the administration +of the government of the country. His plan was to retain James nominally +on the throne, while placing the reins of government in the hands of a +regent. He refused to take the oath of allegiance to William and Mary, +considering himself bound by his former oath to James II. He was +accordingly suspended and deprived, and when ejected by law from Lambeth +he retired to his small ancestral property at Fresingfield, where he died +and was buried. + +#John Tillotson# (1691-1694) was born of Puritan parents at Sowerby, in +Yorkshire, and was educated at Cambridge. During the Protectorate he had +followed the teachings of the Presbyterians, but on the Restoration he +submitted to the Act of Uniformity. He held among other posts those of +Preacher at Lincoln's Inn and Dean of Canterbury, and enjoyed the intimate +confidence of William and Mary. On the deprivation of Sancroft he was +reluctantly induced to accept the primacy, which he was destined to hold +only for some three years. He died at Lambeth after this short term of +office, and was buried in the Church of St. Lawrence, Jewry. As a +theologian Tillotson was remarkable for his latitudinarianism, and he was +one of the finest preachers who have ever lived. + +#Thomas Tenison# was born at Cottenham, in Cambridgeshire, and educated at +Cambridge. His fame as a preacher procured him the Archdeaconry of London +and the Bishopric of Lincoln, in which diocese he did admirable work. He +died at Lambeth, and lies buried in the parish church there. + +#William Wake# (1716-1737) was educated at Christ Church, Oxford, and +became Dean of Exeter and Bishop of Lincoln. He was gifted with great +learning, and took an active part in the controversy with Atterbury on +the subject of the rights of convocation. + +#John Potter# (1737-1747) was the son of a linendraper at Wakefield, in +Yorkshire, and was educated at University College, Oxford, becoming Fellow +of Lincoln and afterwards Bishop of Oxford. He was a learned divine and +writer. Like his predecessor he was buried in the parish church at +Croydon. + +#Thomas Herring# (1747-1757) and + +#Matthew Hutton# (1757-1758) were both translated to Canterbury from York. + +#Thomas Secker# (1758-1768) was born of dissenting parents near Newark. At +the instance of Butler, afterwards the famous Bishop of Durham, he joined +the Church of England and abandoned the study of medicine, and took holy +orders. He held many posts in succession, including the Bishoprics of +Bristol and Oxford. He died and was buried at Lambeth, where his portrait, +by Sir Joshua Reynolds, still remains. + +#Frederick Cornwallis# (1768-1783) was the seventh son of Charles, 4th Lord +Cornwallis. He was consecrated Bishop of Lichfield and Coventry in 1750, +and in 1766 became Dean of St. Paul's. On October 6th, 1768, he was +enthroned Archbishop of Canterbury. In Hasted's "Kent" we find him +commended highly for having abolished that "disagreeable distinction +of his chaplains dining at a separate table." More renowned for his +affability and courteous behaviour than for learning, he entertained at +times with semi-regal state; but once fell into some disfavour because +"his lady was in the habit of holding _routs_ on Sundays." + +#John Moore# (1783-1805) became Dean of Canterbury in 1771. He was +consecrated Bishop of Bangor in 1775, and thence translated to the +archiepiscopal see in 1783. Although a promoter of Sunday-schools and +foreign missions, he did not escape reproach for paying undue regard to +the interests of his family. It has been well said that during his tenure +of office and that of his immediate successor, the sinecures and +pluralities held by the highest clergy were worthy of the mediaeval period. + +#Charles Manners-Sutton# (1805-1828) was grandson of John, 3rd Duke of +Rutland. In 1791 he was made Dean of Peterborough, and Bishop of Norwich +in 1792. In 1794 he was appointed Dean of Windsor, and became Archbishop +of Canterbury in 1805 owing to Court influence, which outweighed the +hostility of Pitt, who wished to appoint his own nominee. As a prelate he +was distinguished for many virtues and qualities befitting his office. He +was president at the foundation of the National Society, and worked +strenuously to advance the cause of education which it represents. While +he held the primacy a fund which had been accumulated from the sale of +Croydon Palace was applied to the purchase of Addington, where he lies +buried. + +#William Howley# (1828-1848) was tutor to the Prince of Orange (afterwards +William II. of Holland) then successively Regius Professor of Divinity of +Oxford, Bishop of London, 1813, and archbishop, 1823. He played a prominent +part in politics and state ceremonials and marked the transition between +the new _regime_, and the old princely days of the archbishoprics. + +#John Bird Sumner# (1848-1862) was brother of Dr. C. Sumner, Bishop of +Winchester. In 1823 he was appointed Bishop of Chester, and in 1848 was +promoted to the See of Canterbury. He published a large number of works, +and by his activity and simplicity of life is "remembered everywhere as +realizing that ideal of the Apostolic ministry which he had traced in his +earliest and most popular work."[3] + + [3] Diocesan Histories: "Canterbury," by R.C. Jenkins, M.A. 1880. + +#Charles Thomas Longley# (1862-1868) was the son of a Recorder of +Rochester. In 1836 he was consecrated the first bishop of the newly founded +See of Ripon, translated to Durham in 1856, became Archbishop of York in +1860, and in 1862 was transferred to Canterbury. Perhaps the most memorable +incidents in a memorable career are the Pan-Anglican Synod held at Lambeth +in 1867, and his establishment of the Diocesan Society for Church +Building. + +#Archibald Campbell Tait# (1868-1882) was son of Craufurd Tait, Esq., a +Scots attorney. He succeeded Arnold as Master of Rugby in 1842, and became +Dean of Carlisle in 1850. He presided over the Pan-Anglican Synod in 1867, +and in 1868 succeeded to the archbishopric. "Memorials of Catherine and +Craufurd Tait" is a book so well known that even the barest sketch of his +career here would be superfluous. + +#Edward White Benson# (1882-1896), son of Edward White Benson, Esq., of +Birmingham Heath, was a master of Rugby. He was Head Master of Wellington +from 1858 to 1872, Prebendary and Chancellor of Lincoln in 1872, was +consecrated the first bishop of the newly created See of Truro in 1877, +and translated to Canterbury in 1883. He was buried in the Cathedral on +October 16th, 1896, in a secluded corner of the north aisle, immediately +under the north-west tower, the first archbishop who was interred in the +cathedral of the metropolitan see since Reginald Pole in 1558. + +#Frederick Temple# (1896- ), the present archbishop, is son +of the late Major Octavius Temple. He was Head Master of Rugby, 1858 to +1869, consecrated the sixty-first Bishop of Exeter in 1869, translated to +London in 1885, and to Canterbury in 1896. His share in the famous "Essays +and Reviews," and the many active works he has instituted, are too well +known to need comment. + + + + +PLANS OF CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL, AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. + + +[Illustration: Fig. 1. Plan of Saxon Cathedral (from Willis).] + +[Illustration: Fig. 2. The Cathedral in 1774. The lighter shading shows +the conjectural termination of Lanfranc's church (from Willis).] + +REFERENCES TO FIG. 2. + + Altars. +E. Holy Cross. +F. St. Mary the Virgin. +H. St. Michael's (below). + All Saints (above). +M. St. Benedict (below). + St. Blaise (above). +X. High Altar. + + +[Illustration: Fig. 3. Plan of Canterbury Cathedral at the present time.] + +REFERENCES TO FIG. 3. + + EXTERIOR. + + A. West Door. + B. South Door. +CC. Nave. + D. South Aisle. + E. North Aisle. + G. Tower, N.W. + H. Tower, S.W. + J. Transept, S.W. + K. Martyrdom, or + Transept, N.W. + L. Central Tower. + M. Choir. + N. South Aisle. + O. North Aisle. + P. Transept, S.E. + Q. Transept, N.E. + R. Presbytery. + S. Altar. + T. Trinity Chapel. + U. Aisle ditto. + W. Corona. + X. Anselm's Tower. + Y. Vestry. + Z. Treasury. + + INTERIOR. + + 1. Doorway to Cloister. + 3. " to Warrior's Chapel. + 4. " to Dean's Chapel. + 5. " to Crypt. + 6. " to Cloister. + 7. Warham's Mt. (Monument [Transcriber's Note]) + 8. Peckham's Mt. + 9. Staircase. +10. Lady Holland's Mt. +11, 12 and 13. Stairs. +15. Walter's Mt. +16. Reynold's Mt. +17. Kemp's Mt. +18. Stratford's Mt. +19. Sudbury's Mt. +20. Mepeham's Mt. +21. Black Prince's Mt. +22. Courtney's Mt. +23. Chatillon's Mt. +24. Theobald's Mt. +25. Pole's Mt. +26. Dean Wotton's Mt. +27. Henry IV.'s Mt. +28. Henry IV.'s Chantry. +29. Bourchier's Mt. +30. Chichele's Mt. +31. Stairs to Crypt. +35. Library. +38. Chapter-House. +39. Cloister Square. + + * * * * * + + +Transcriber's Notes: + +1. Words and phrases which were italicized in the original have been + surrounded by underscores ('_') in this version. Words or phrases + which were bolded have been surrounded by pound signs ('#'). + +2. Obvious printer's errors have been corrected without note. + +3. Inconsistencies in hyphenation or the spelling of proper names, and + dialect or obsolete word spelling, has been maintained as in the + original. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Cathedral Church of Canterbury +[2nd ed.]., by Hartley Withers + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF CANTERBURY *** + +***** This file should be named 22832.txt or 22832.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/2/8/3/22832/ + +Produced by Jonathan Ingram, Anne Storer and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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