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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Rollo in Switzerland, by Jacob Abbott
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Rollo in Switzerland
+
+Author: Jacob Abbott
+
+Release Date: August 23, 2007 [EBook #22377]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ROLLO IN SWITZERLAND ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by D. Alexander, Janet Blenkinship and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  ROLLO IN SWITZERLAND,
+
+  BY
+
+  JACOB ABBOTT.
+
+
+  NEW YORK:
+  SHELDON & CO., 667 BROADWAY,
+  and 214 & 216 MERCER ST.,
+  Grand Central Hotel.
+  1873.
+
+  Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1858, by JACOB ABBOTT,
+
+  In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of
+  Massachusetts.
+
+
+
+
+  [Illustration: ROLLO'S IN EUROPE.]
+
+  ROLLO'S TOUR IN EUROPE.
+
+  ORDER OF THE VOLUMES.
+
+  ROLLO ON THE ATLANTIC.
+  ROLLO IN PARIS.
+  ROLLO IN SWITZERLAND.
+  ROLLO IN LONDON.
+  ROLLO ON THE RHINE.
+  ROLLO IN SCOTLAND.
+  ROLLO IN GENEVA.
+  ROLLO IN HOLLAND.
+
+
+
+
+  [Illustration: MONT BLANC.]
+
+
+  PRINCIPAL PERSONS OF THE STORY.
+
+  ROLLO; twelve years of age.
+
+  MR. and MRS. HOLIDAY; Rollo's father and mother, travelling
+  in Europe.
+
+  THANNY; Rollo's younger brother.
+
+  JANE; Rollo's cousin, adopted by Mr. and Mrs. Holiday.
+
+  MR. GEORGE; a young gentleman, Rollo's uncle.
+
+
+
+
+  CONTENTS.
+
+  CHAPTER                                                             PAGE
+
+  I.--GETTING A PASSPORT,                                               11
+
+  II.--CROSSING THE FRONTIER,                                           31
+
+  III.--BASLE,                                                          49
+
+  IV.--THE DILIGENCE,                                                   60
+
+  V.--RIDE TO BERNE,                                                    72
+
+  VI.-THE VALLEY OF THE AAR,                                            85
+
+  VII.--INTERLACHEN,                                                   101
+
+  VIII.--LAUTERBRUNNEN,                                                118
+
+  IX.--THE WENGERN ALP,                                                136
+
+  X.--GOING DOWN THE MOUNTAIN,                                         168
+
+  XI.--GLACIERS,                                                       181
+
+  XII.--ROLLO A COURIER,                                               196
+
+  XIII.--CONCLUSION,                                                   220
+
+
+  ENGRAVINGS.
+
+  MONT BLANC, (FRONTISPIECE.)                                         PAGE
+
+  THE COTTAGE,                                                          10
+
+  THE PREFECTURE OF POLICE,                                             25
+
+  IN THE CAB,                                                           40
+
+  THE DILIGENCE AT THE OFFICE,                                          77
+
+  THE DILIGENCE ON THE ROAD,                                            81
+
+  THE LAKE SHORE,                                                       97
+
+  VICINITY OF INTERLACHEN,                                             100
+
+  THE MOUNTAIN GIRL,                                                   147
+
+  THE FALL,                                                            173
+
+  THE CREVASSE,                                                        182
+
+  THE NARROW PATH,                                                     189
+
+  ASCENT OF MONT BLANC,                                                193
+
+[Illustration: THE COTTAGE. _See page 81_]
+
+
+
+
+ROLLO IN SWITZERLAND.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+GETTING A PASSPORT.
+
+
+The last day that Rollo spent in Paris, before he set out on his journey
+into Switzerland, he had an opportunity to acquire, by actual
+experience, some knowledge of the nature of the passport system.
+
+Before commencing the narrative of the adventures which he met with, it
+is necessary to premise that no person can travel among the different
+states and kingdoms on the continent of Europe without what is called a
+passport. The idea which prevails among all the governments of the
+continent is, that the people of each country are the subjects of the
+sovereign reigning there, and in some sense belong to him. They cannot
+leave their country without the written permission of the government,
+nor can they enter any other one without showing this permission and
+having it approved and stamped by the proper officers of the country to
+which they wish to go. There are, for example, at Paris ministers of all
+the different governments of Europe, residing in different parts of the
+city; and whoever wishes to leave France, to go into any other kingdom,
+must first go with his passport to the ministers of the countries which
+he intends to visit and get them to put their stamp upon it. This stamp
+represents the permission of the government whose minister affixes it
+that the traveller may enter the territory under their jurisdiction.
+Besides this, it is necessary to get permission from the authorities of
+Paris to leave the city. Nobody can leave France without this. This
+permission, too, like the others, is given by a stamp upon the passport.
+To get this stamp, the traveller must carry or send his passport to the
+great central police office of Paris, called the prefecture of police.
+Now, as the legations of the different governments and the prefecture of
+police are situated at very considerable distances from each other about
+the city, and as it usually takes some time to transact the business at
+each office, and especially as the inexperienced traveller often makes
+mistakes and goes to the wrong place, or gets at the right place at the
+wrong hour, it usually requires a whole day, and sometimes two days, to
+get his passport all right so as to allow of his setting out upon his
+journey. These explanations are necessary to enable the reader to
+understand what I now proceed to relate in respect to Rollo.
+
+One morning, while Rollo and Jennie were at breakfast with their father
+and mother, Rollo's uncle George came in and said that he had concluded
+to go and make a little tour in Switzerland. "I shall have three weeks,"
+said he, "if I can get away to-morrow; and that will give me time to
+take quite a little run among the mountains. I have come now to see if
+you will let Rollo go with me."
+
+"Yes, sir," said Rollo, very eagerly, and rising at once from his chair.
+"Yes, sir. Let me go with him. That's exactly the thing. Yes, sir."
+
+"Have you any objection?" said Mr. Holiday, quietly, turning towards
+Rollo's mother.
+
+"No," said Mrs. Holiday, speaking, however, in a very doubtful
+tone,--"no; I don't know that I have--any great objection."
+
+Whatever doubt and hesitation Mrs. Holiday might have had on the subject
+was dispelled when she came to look at Rollo and see how eager and
+earnest he was in his desire to go. So she gave her definitive consent.
+
+"How long do you think you will be gone?" said Mr. Holiday.
+
+"Three weeks, nearly," replied Mr. George. "Say twenty days."
+
+"And how much do you suppose it will cost you?" asked Mr. Holiday.
+
+"I have made a calculation," said Mr. George; "and I think it will cost
+me, if I go alone, about twenty-five francs a day for the whole time.
+There would, however, be a considerable saving in some things if two go
+together."
+
+"Then I will allow you, Rollo," replied Mr. Holiday, looking towards
+Rollo, "twenty-five francs a day for this excursion. If you spend any
+more than that, you must take it out of your past savings. If you do not
+spend it all, what is left when you come back is yours."
+
+"Yes, sir," said Rollo. "I think that will be a great plenty."
+
+"Twenty-five francs a day for twenty days," continued Mr. Holiday, "is
+five hundred francs. Bring me that bag of gold, Rollo, out of my
+secretary. Here is the key."
+
+So Rollo brought out the gold, and Mr. Holiday took from it twenty-five
+Napoleons. These he put in Rollo's purse.
+
+"There," said Mr. Holiday, "that's all I can do for you. For the rest
+you must take care of yourself."
+
+"How long will it take you to pack your trunk?" said Mr. George.
+
+"Five minutes," said Rollo, promptly, standing up erect as he said it
+and buttoning his jacket up to his chin.
+
+"Then put on your cap and come with me," said Mr. George.
+
+Rollo did so. He followed Mr. George down stairs to the door, and they
+both got into a small carriage which Mr. George had waiting there and
+drove away together towards Mr. George's hotel.
+
+"Now, Rollo," said Mr. George, "I have got a great deal to do to-day,
+and there are our passports to be stamped. I wonder if you could not
+attend to that."
+
+"Yes," said Rollo, "if you will only tell me what is to be done."
+
+"I don't myself know what is to be done," said Mr. George. "That's the
+difficulty. And I have not time to find out. I have got as much as I can
+possibly do until four o'clock; and then the office of the prefecture of
+police is closed. Now, if you can take the passports and find out what
+is to be done, and _do_ it, then we can go to-morrow; otherwise we must
+wait till next day."
+
+"Well," said Rollo, "I'll try."
+
+"You will find the passports, then, on my table at the hotel. I am going
+to get out at the next street and take another carriage to go in another
+direction. You can keep this carriage."
+
+"Very well," said Rollo.
+
+"You may make inquiries of any body you please," said Mr. George,
+"except your father and mother. We must not trouble your father with any
+business of any kind till he gets entirely well; and your mother would
+not know any thing about it at all. Perhaps the master of the hotel can
+tell you. You had better _ask_ him, at any rate."
+
+Here Mr. George pulled the string for the carriage to stop, as they had
+arrived at the corner of the street where he was to get out. The
+coachman drew up to the sidewalk and stopped. Mr. George opened the door
+and stepped out upon the curbstone, and then said, as he shut the
+door,--
+
+"Well, good by, Rollo. I hope you will have good luck. But, whatever
+happens, keep a quiet mind, and don't allow yourself to feel perplexed
+or troubled. If you don't succeed in getting the passports ready to-day
+we can attend to them to-morrow and then go the next day, which will
+answer nearly as well."
+
+Then, directing the coachman to drive to the hotel, Mr. George walked
+rapidly away.
+
+When Rollo reached the hotel he got the key of his uncle George's room,
+at the porter's lodge, and went immediately up to see if the passports
+were there. He found them, as his uncle had said, lying on the table.
+
+"Now," said Rollo, "the first thing I'll do is to find Carlos and see if
+he will go and help me get the passports stamped."[1]
+
+So, taking the passports in his hand, he went along the corridor till he
+came to the door leading to the apartments where Carlos lodged. There
+was a bell hanging by the side of the door. Rollo pulled this cord, and
+presently the courier came to the door.[2] Rollo inquired for Carlos,
+and the courier said that he would go and get him. In the mean time the
+courier asked Rollo to step in and take a seat. So Rollo went in. The
+room that he entered was a small one, and was used as an antechamber to
+the apartment; and it was very neatly and pleasantly furnished for such
+a purpose. There were a sofa and several chairs, and maps and pictures
+on the walls, and a table with writing materials on it in the centre.
+Rollo sat down upon the sofa. In a few minutes Carlos came.
+
+"Look here!" said Rollo, rising when Carlos came in. "See these
+passports! We're going to get them stamped. Will you go with me? I have
+got a carriage at the door."
+
+Here Rollo made a sort of whirling motion with his hand, advancing it
+forward at the same time as it rolled, to indicate the motion of a
+wheel. This was to signify to Carlos that they were going in a carriage.
+
+All that Carlos understood was, that Rollo was going somewhere, and that
+he wished him, Carlos, to go too. He seemed very much pleased with his
+invitation, and went eagerly back into the inner apartments. He returned
+in a very few minutes with his cap in his hand, evidently all ready to
+go.
+
+"Now," said Rollo, as they went out of the antechamber together, "the
+first thing is to go and ask the master of the hotel what we are to do."
+
+There was a very pleasant little room on the lower floor, on one side of
+the archway which formed the entrance into the court of the hotel from
+the street, that served the purpose of parlor, sitting room, counting
+room, and office. Thus it was used both by the master of the hotel
+himself and by his family. There was a desk at one side, where the
+master usually sat, with his books and papers before him. At the other
+side, near a window, his wife was often seated at her sewing; and there
+were frequently two or three little children playing about the floor
+with little wagons, or tops, or other toys. Rollo went to this room,
+occupying himself as he descended the stairs in trying to make up a
+French sentence that would ask his question in the shortest and simplest
+manner.
+
+He went in, and, going to the desk, held out his passports to the man
+who was sitting there, and said, in French,--
+
+"Passports. To Switzerland. Where to go to get them stamped?"
+
+"Ah," said the master of the hotel, taking the passports in his hand.
+"Yes, yes, yes. You must get them stamped. You must go to the Swiss
+legation and to the prefecture of police."
+
+Here Rollo pointed to a piece of paper that was lying on the desk and
+made signs of writing.
+
+"Ah, yes, yes, yes," said the man. "I will write you the address."
+
+So the man took a piece of paper and wrote upon the top of it the words
+"prefecture of police," saying, as he wrote it, that every coachman knew
+where that was. Then, underneath, he wrote the name of the street and
+number where the Swiss legation was; and, having done this, he gave the
+paper to Rollo.
+
+Rollo took the memorandum, and, thanking the man for his information,
+led Carlos out to the carriage.
+
+"Come, Carlos," said he; "now we are ready. I know where to go; but I
+don't know at all what we are to do when we get there. But then we shall
+find some other people there, I suppose, getting their passports
+stamped; and we can do as they do."
+
+Rollo had learned to place great reliance on the rule which his uncle
+George had given for his guidance in travelling; namely, to do as he saw
+other people do. It is, in fact, a very excellent rule.
+
+Carlos got into the carriage; while Rollo, looking upon the paper in
+order to be sure that he understood the words right, said, "To the
+prefecture of police."
+
+The coachman said, "Yes, yes;" and Rollo got into the coach. The
+coachman, without leaving his seat, reached his arm down and fastened
+the door and then drove away.
+
+He drove on through various crowded streets, which seemed to lead in
+towards the heart of the city, until at last the carriage came to the
+river. Rollo and Carlos looked out and saw the bridges, and the parapet
+wall which formed the river side of the street, with the book stalls,
+and picture stalls, and cake and fruit booths which had been established
+along the side of it, and the monstrous bathing houses which lay
+floating on the water below, all gayly painted and adorned with flags
+and little parterres of flowers; and the washing houses, with their long
+rows of windows, down close to the water, all filled with women, who
+were washing clothes by alternately plunging them in the water of the
+river and then banging them with clubs. These and a great many other
+similar objects attracted their attention as they rode along.
+
+If the reader of this book has the opportunity to look at a map of
+Paris, he will see that the River Seine, in passing through the town,
+forms two channels, which separate from each other so as to leave quite
+a large island between them. This island is completely covered with
+streets and buildings, some of which are very ancient and venerable.
+Here is the great Cathedral Church of Notre Dame; also the vast hospital
+called Hotel Dieu, where twelve thousand sick persons are received and
+taken care of every year. Here also is the prefecture of police--an
+enormous establishment, with courts, quadrangles, ranges, offices, and
+officers without number. In this establishment the records are kept and
+the business is transacted relating to all the departments of the police
+of the city; so that it is of itself quite a little town.
+
+The first indication which Rollo had that he had arrived at the place
+was the turning in of the coach under an arch, which opened in the
+middle of a very sombre and antique-looking edifice. The carriage, after
+passing through the arch, came into a court, where there were many other
+carriages standing. Soldiers were seen too, some coming and going and
+others standing guard. The carriage passed through this court, and then,
+going under another arch between two ponderous iron gates, it came into
+another court, much larger than the first. There were a great many
+carriages in this court, some moving in or out and others waiting.
+Rollo's carriage drove up to the farthest corner of the court; and there
+the coachman stopped and opened the door. Rollo got out. Carlos followed
+him.
+
+"Where do you suppose we are to go, Carlos?" said he. "Stop; I can see
+by the signs over the doors. Here it is. "Passports." This must be the
+place. We will go in here."
+
+Rollo accordingly went in, Carlos timidly following him. After crossing
+a sort of passage way, he opened another door, which ushered him at once
+into a very large hall, the aspect of which quite bewildered him. There
+were a great many desks and tables about the hall, with clerks writing
+at them, and people coming and going with passports and permits in their
+hands. Rollo stepped forward into the room, surveying the scene with
+great curiosity and wonder, when his attention was suddenly arrested by
+the voice of a soldier, who rose suddenly from his chair, and said,--
+
+"Your cap, young gentleman."
+
+Rollo immediately recollected that he had his cap on, while all the
+other people in the room were uncovered. He took his cap off at once,
+saying to the soldier at the same time, "Pardon, sir," which is the
+French mode of making an apology in such cases. The soldier then resumed
+his seat, and Rollo and Carlos walked on slowly up the hall.
+
+Nobody took any notice of them. In fact, every one seemed busy with his
+own concerns, except that in one part of the room there were several
+benches where a number of men and women were sitting as if they were
+waiting for something.
+
+Rollo advanced towards these seats, saying to Carlos,--
+
+"Carlos, let us sit down here a minute or two till we can think what we
+had better do. We can sit here, I know. These benches must be for any
+body."
+
+As soon as Rollo had taken his seat and began to cast his eyes about the
+room, he observed that among the other desks there was one with the
+words, "for foreigners," upon it, in large, gilt letters.
+
+"Carlos," said he, pointing to it, "that must be the place for us. We
+are foreigners: let us go there. We will give the passports to the man
+in that little pew."
+
+So Rollo rose, and, followed by Carlos, he went to the place. There was
+a long desk, with two or three clerks behind it, writing. At the end of
+this desk was a small enclosure, where a man sat who looked as though he
+had some authority. People would give him their passports, and he would
+write something on them and then pass them over to the clerks. Rollo
+waited a moment and then handed his passports in. The man took them,
+looked over them and then gave them back to Rollo, saying something in
+French which Rollo did not understand, and immediately passed to the
+next in order.
+
+"What did he say?" said Rollo, turning to Carlos.
+
+[Illustration: THE PREFECTURE OF POLICE.]
+
+"What's the reason he won't take your passports?" said Carlos.
+
+Although Rollo did not understand what the official said at the time of
+his speaking, still the words left a trace upon his ear, and in
+thinking upon them he recalled the words "American legation," and also
+the word "afterwards." While he was musing on the subject, quite
+perplexed, a pleasant-looking girl, who was standing there waiting for
+her turn, explained to him--speaking very slow in French, for she
+perceived that Rollo was a foreigner--as follows:--
+
+"He says that you must go first and get your passports stamped at the
+American legation and afterwards come here."
+
+"Where is the American legation?" said Rollo.
+
+"I don't know," said the girl.
+
+"Then I'll make the coachman find it for me," said Rollo. "Come, Carlos;
+we must go back."
+
+So saying, he thanked the girl for her kindness, and the two boys went
+out. As he was going out Rollo made up a French sentence to say to the
+coachman that he must drive to the American legation, and that he must
+find out where it was himself. He succeeded in communicating these
+directions to the coachman, and then he and Carlos got into the carriage
+and drove away.
+
+The coachman had some difficulty in learning where the American legation
+was, which occasioned some delay. Besides, the distance was
+considerable. It was nearly two miles to the place from the prefecture
+of police; so that it was some time before the carriage arrived there.
+In fact, Rollo had a very narrow escape in this stage of the affair; for
+he arrived at the American legation only about five minutes before the
+office was to be closed for the day. When he went to the porter's lodge
+to ask if that was the place where the office of the American legation
+was held, the woman who kept the lodge, and who was standing just
+outside the door at the time, instead of answering, went in to look at
+the clock.
+
+"Ah," said she, "you are just in time. I thought you were too late.
+Second story, right-hand door."
+
+"There's one thing good about the American legation, Carlos," said
+Rollo; "and that is, that they can talk English, I suppose."
+
+This was, indeed, a great advantage. Rollo found, when he went into the
+office of the legation, that the secretary not only could talk English,
+but that he was a very kindhearted and agreeable man. He talked with
+Rollo in English and with Carlos in Spanish. Both the boys were very
+much pleased with the reception they met with. The necessary stamps were
+promptly affixed to the passports; and then the boys, giving the
+secretary both an English and a Spanish good by, went down stairs to the
+carriage again. They directed the coachman to drive as quick as possible
+to the Swiss legation, showing him the address which Rollo's uncle had
+given them. They then got into the carriage, and the coachman drove
+away.
+
+"Now, Carlos," said Rollo, "we are all right; that is, if we only get to
+the Swiss legation before it is shut up."
+
+"He said he had been in Madrid," rejoined Carlos. "He was there three
+months."
+
+"I believe," added Rollo, "that uncle George said it did not close till
+three; and it is only two now."
+
+"And he knew the street my father lived in very well," said Carlos.
+
+Very soon the carriage stopped at the place which the coachman said was
+the Swiss legation. Rollo got out and went to the porter's lodge with
+the passports in his hand. The woman in charge knew at once what he
+wanted, and, without waiting to hear him finish the question which he
+began to ask, directed him "to the second story on the right."
+
+Rollo went up the staircase till he came to the door, and there pulled
+the cord.
+
+A clerk opened the door. Rollo held out the passports.
+
+"Enter there," said the clerk, in French, pointing to an inner door.
+
+Rollo went in and found there a very pleasant little room, with cases of
+books and papers around it, and maps and plans of Switzerland and of
+Swiss towns upon the wall. The clerk took the passports and asked the
+boys to sit down. In a few minutes the proper stamps were affixed to
+them both and the proper signatures added. The clerk then said that
+there was the sum of six francs to pay. Rollo paid the money, and then
+he and Carlos went down stairs.
+
+They now returned to the prefecture of police. They went in as they had
+done before, and gave the passports to the man who was seated in the
+little enclosure in the foreigner's part of the room. He took them,
+examined the new stamps which had been put upon them, and then said,
+"Very well. Take a seat a little minute."
+
+Rollo and Carlos sat down upon one of the benches to wait; but the
+little minute proved to be nearly half an hour. They were not tired of
+waiting, however, there was so much to amuse and interest them going on
+in the room.
+
+"I am going to watch and see what the foreigners do to get their
+passports," said Rollo, in an undertone, to Carlos; "for we must do the
+same."
+
+In thus watching, Rollo observed that from time to time a name was
+called by one of the clerks behind the desk, and then some of the
+persons waiting on the seats would rise and go to the place. After
+stopping there a few minutes, he would take his passport and carry it
+into an inner room to another desk, where something was done to it. Then
+he would bring it out to another place, where it was stamped once or
+twice by a man who seemed to have nothing else to do but to stamp every
+body's passport when they came out. By watching this process in the case
+of the others, Rollo knew exactly what to do when _his_ name was called;
+so that, in about half an hour from the time that he went into the
+office, he had the satisfaction of coming out and getting into his
+carriage with the passports all in order for the journey to Switzerland.
+
+When he got home and showed them to Mr. George, his uncle looked them
+over carefully; and, when he found that the stamp of the police was duly
+affixed to them both,--knowing, as he did, that those would not be put
+on till all the others were right,--he said,--
+
+"Well, Rollo, you've done it, I declare. I did not think you were so
+much of a man."
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 1: Carlos was a Spanish boy, who was residing at this time at
+the same hotel with Mr. George. The manner in which Rollo became
+acquainted with him is related in Rollo in Paris. Carlos did not
+understand English, nor Rollo Spanish; but when they were together they
+usually kept talking all the time, each in his own way.]
+
+[Footnote 2: A courier is a travelling servant and guide.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+CROSSING THE FRONTIER.
+
+
+On the morning when Mr. George and Rollo were about setting out for
+Switzerland, Rollo, having got every thing ready himself half an hour
+before the time, took out his map of Europe and asked his uncle George
+what route they were going to take. Mr. George was busy at that time
+putting the last things into his trunk and making ready to lock it up
+and strap it; so he could not come to Rollo to show him the route, but
+was obliged to describe it.
+
+"Have you found Paris?" said he.
+
+"Yes," said Rollo; "I have got my finger on it."
+
+"In the first place, then," said Mr. George, "there is a railway that
+goes east from Paris a hundred miles across France to Strasbourg on the
+Rhine. See if you can find Strasbourg on the Rhine."
+
+"Yes," said Rollo; "here it is."
+
+"Then," said Mr. George, "we take another railway and go south, up the
+Rhine, towards Switzerland."
+
+"_Down_ the Rhine," said Rollo, correcting his uncle; "it is _down_."
+
+"No," rejoined Mr. George. "It is down on the map; that is, it is down
+the page; but it is really _up_ the river. The Rhine flows to the north.
+It collects the waters of a hundred glaciers in Switzerland and carries
+them north into the North Sea."
+
+"Well," said Rollo.
+
+"This railway," continued Mr. George, "will take us up from Strasbourg,
+along the bank of the Rhine, to Basle, which is in Switzerland, just
+across the frontier. It is there, I suppose, that we shall have to show
+our passports; and then we shall know if you got them stamped right."
+
+"I did get them stamped right, I am very sure," said Rollo.
+
+"Boys are generally very sure that what they do is done right," rejoined
+Mr. George.
+
+Soon after this Mr. George and Rollo took their seats in the carriage,
+which had been for some time standing ready for them in the court yard
+of the inn, and drove to the Strasbourg station.
+
+Rollo was greatly interested and excited, when he arrived at the
+Strasbourg station, to see how extensive and magnificent it was. The
+carriage entered, with a train of other carriages, through a great iron
+gate and drew up at the front of a very spacious and grand-looking
+building. Porters, dressed in a sort of uniform, which gave them in some
+degree the appearance of soldiers, were ready to take the two trunks and
+carry them in. The young gentlemen followed the porters, and they soon
+found themselves ushered into an immense hall, very neatly and prettily
+arranged, with great maps of the various railways painted on the walls
+between the windows on the front side, and openings on the back side
+leading to ticket offices or waiting rooms. There were seats along the
+sides of this hall, with groups of neatly-dressed travellers sitting
+upon them. Other travellers were walking about, attending to their
+baggage or making inquiries of the porter or policemen. Others still
+were standing at the openings of the ticket offices buying their
+tickets. What chiefly struck Rollo's attention, however, and impressed
+his mind, was the air of silence, order, and decorum which prevailed and
+which gave to the station an aspect so different from that of an
+American station. It is true, the hall was very large, and there were a
+great many people in it going and coming; but they all walked decorously
+and quietly,--they spoke in an undertone,--and the presence of so many
+railway officials in their several uniforms, and of police officers with
+their badges, and here and there a soldier on guard, gave to the whole
+scene quite a solemn and imposing appearance.
+
+Rollo gazed about the apartment as he came in, surveying the various
+objects and groups that presented themselves to his view, until his eye
+rested upon a little party of travellers, consisting of a lady and two
+boys, who were standing together near a low railing, waiting for the
+gentleman who was with them to come back from the ticket office with
+their tickets. What chiefly attracted Rollo's attention, however, was a
+pretty little dog, with very long ears, and black, glossy hair, which
+one of the children held by a cord. The cord was attached to the dog's
+neck by a silver collar.
+
+Rollo looked at this group for a few minutes--his attention being
+particularly occupied by the dog,--and then turned again towards his
+uncle, or rather towards the place where his uncle had been standing;
+but he found, to his surprise, that he was gone.
+
+In a moment, however, he saw his uncle coming towards him. He was
+clasping his wallet and putting it in his pocket.
+
+"Uncle George," said he, "see that beautiful little dog!"
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George.
+
+"I wish I had such a dog as that to travel with me," said Rollo. "But,
+uncle George where are we to get our tickets?"
+
+"I've got mine," said Mr. George. "When I come to a railway station I
+always get my ticket the first thing, and look at the pretty little dogs
+afterwards."
+
+So saying, Mr. George took a newspaper out of his pocket and began to
+walk away, adding, as he went,--
+
+"I'll sit down here and read my newspaper till you have got your ticket,
+and then we will go into the waiting room."
+
+"But, uncle George," said Rollo, "why did not you get me a ticket when
+you got yours?"
+
+"Because," said Mr. George, "among other reasons, I did not know which
+class carriage you wished to go in."
+
+"Why, uncle George!" exclaimed Rollo, surprised. "I must go in the same
+carriage that you do of course."
+
+"Not of course," said Mr. George. "I have got a ticket in the first
+class; and I should like to have your company in my car very much if you
+choose to pay the price for a first-class ticket. But if you choose to
+take a second or a third-class ticket you will save, perhaps, half your
+money."
+
+So saying, Mr. George went away and left Rollo to himself.
+
+This was the way that Mr. George always treated Rollo when he was
+travelling with him. He left him to act for himself and to take care of
+himself in almost all the emergencies that occurred. He did this, not
+because he wished to save himself the trouble of taking care of a boy,
+but because he thought it was much better for boys early to learn to
+take care of themselves.
+
+The manner in which Mr. George thus threw the responsibility upon Rollo
+seemed sometimes to be a little blunt. One would suppose, in some of
+these cases, from the way in which he spoke and acted, that he did not
+care at all what became of Rollo, so coolly and with such an air of
+unconcern did he leave him to his own resources. In fact, Rollo was
+frequently at such times a little frightened, or at least perplexed, and
+often, at first, felt greatly at a loss to know what to do. But, on
+reflecting a little upon the subject, he usually soon succeeded in
+extricating himself from the difficulty; and then he was always quite
+proud of having done so, and was pleased with his uncle George for
+having given him the opportunity. So Mr. George, having learned by
+experience that Rollo liked, on the whole, to be treated in this way,
+always adopted it; and in carrying it out he sometimes spoke and acted
+in such a way as might, under other circumstances have appeared somewhat
+stern.
+
+The idea of taking a second-class car for himself in order to save a
+portion of his money, while his uncle went in one of the first-class,
+took Rollo's imagination strongly, and he was half inclined to adopt it.
+
+"On the whole," said he to himself, "I will not do it to-day; but I will
+some other day. And now I wonder which is the ticket office for
+Strasbourg."
+
+So saying, Rollo looked about the room and soon found the proper place
+to apply for his ticket. He procured a ticket without any difficulty,
+asking for it in French, with a pronunciation which, if it was not
+perfectly correct, was at least perfectly intelligible. As soon as he
+had received his ticket and had taken up his change he went to the bench
+where his uncle George was sitting and said that he was ready.
+
+"Well," said Mr. George, "then we'll go. I like to travel with a boy
+that is capable of taking care of himself and is willing to be treated
+like a man."
+
+Saying these words, Mr. George rose from his seat, and, after attending
+properly to the baggage, he and Rollo passed through a door guarded by a
+man in uniform, who required them to show him their tickets before he
+would allow them to pass, and then entered a spacious apartment which
+was reserved as the waiting room for the first-class passengers. This
+room was beautifully finished and richly adorned, and the splendid sofas
+and ottomans which were ranged about the sides of it were occupied by
+well-dressed ladies and gentlemen, carrying shawls, greatcoats, and
+small travelling bags upon their arms, and exhibiting other similar
+indications of their being travellers. Mr. George and Rollo took seats
+at a vacant place upon one of the sofas. In a few minutes an officer
+came and informed the company, in a very respectful manner, that the
+train was ready; whereupon they all rose from their seats and walked out
+upon the platform where the train was waiting. Here there were several
+railway servants, all dressed in uniform, whose business it was to
+conduct the passengers to the several cars, or carriages, as they call
+them, and open the doors. These carriages were entirely different in
+their construction from the long and open cars used in America, which
+form but one compartment, that extends through the whole length of the
+car. The French cars were like three elegant carriages, joined together
+in such a manner that, though the three formed but one car, they were
+still entirely distinct from each other. The seats in these carriages
+were very spacious, and they were richly stuffed and lined, so that they
+formed soft and luxurious places of repose. The railway porter opened
+one of the doors and admitted Mr. George and Rollo, and when they had
+entered he closed it again.
+
+"Ah," said Rollo, seating himself upon the soft cushion on one of the
+seats, "is not this superb? I am _very glad_ I did not take a
+second-class car."
+
+"And yet the second-class cars in France are very comfortable and very
+respectable," said Mr. George, "and they are very much cheaper."
+
+"How much should we have saved," asked Rollo, "in going to Strasbourg,
+if we had taken a second-class car?"
+
+"I don't know, precisely," said Mr. George. "We should have saved a
+great deal."
+
+The train now began to move; and, soon after it left the station, Mr.
+George took out his newspaper again and began to read. It was a copy of
+a very celebrated newspaper, called the London Times. Mr. George had
+another London paper which was full of humorous engravings. The name of
+it was Punch. Mr. George gave the Punch to Rollo, thinking that the
+pictures and caricatures in it might perhaps amuse him; but Rollo, after
+turning it over a moment, concluded that he should prefer to amuse
+himself by looking out the window.
+
+[Illustration: IN THE CAR.]
+
+Rollo saw a great many beautiful views and witnessed a great many
+strange and striking scenes as he was whirled onward by the train across
+the country from Paris towards Strasbourg. We cannot, however, stop to
+describe what he saw, but must hasten on to the Swiss frontier. The
+travellers arrived at Strasbourg in the evening. They spent the night at
+a hotel; and the next morning they took another railway which led along
+the bank of the Rhine, up the river, towards Switzerland. The country
+was magnificent. There was the river on one side, and a range of
+mountains rising sublimely in the interior on the other. The mountains
+were at a distance of several miles from the river; and the country
+between was an extremely fertile and luxuriant plain, covered with
+villages, castles, parks, pleasure grounds, gardens, and cultivated
+fields, which presented every where most enchanting pictures of rural
+beauty. This province is called Alsatia.
+
+The terminus of the railway was at the city of Basle, which lies just
+within the confines of Switzerland. A short distance before reaching the
+gates of Basle, the train stopped at what seemed at first to be a
+station. It was, however, only the custom house, where the trunks and
+passports were to be examined.
+
+"What are we to do here," asked Rollo.
+
+"_I_ am going to do what I see other people do," replied Mr. George.
+"You can do whatever you please."
+
+At this moment a guard, dressed, like all the other railway servants,
+in a sort of uniform, opened the door of the car in which Mr. George and
+Rollo were sitting, and said in a very respectful manner, in French,--
+
+"The custom house, gentlemen."
+
+Mr. George observed that the passengers were getting out from all the
+other cars; so he stepped out too, and Rollo followed him.
+
+When they reached the platform they observed that a company of porters
+were employed in carrying all the trunks and baggage from the cars to
+the custom house, and that the passengers were going into the custom
+house too, though by another door. Mr. George and Rollo went in with
+them. They found an office within, and a desk, where one or two
+secretaries sat and examined the passports of the travellers as they
+successively presented them. As fast as they were examined they were
+impressed with a new stamp, which denoted permission for the travellers
+to pass the Swiss frontier. The several travellers, as fast as their
+passports were examined, found right, and stamped, were allowed to pass
+between two soldiers through a door into another hall, where they found
+all the trunks and baggage arranged on a sort of counter, which extended
+around the centre of the room, so as to enclose a square place within.
+The custom-house officers who were to examine the baggage were within
+this enclosure, while the travellers who owned the baggage stood
+without. These last walked around the counter, looking at the trunks,
+boxes, bundles, and carpet bags that covered it, each selecting his own
+and opening the several parcels, in order that the officers within might
+examine them.
+
+The object of examining the trunks of passengers in this way is, to
+ascertain that they have not any _goods_ concealed in them. As a general
+thing, persons are not allowed to take _goods_ from one country to
+another without paying a tax for them. Such a tax is called technically
+a _duty_, and the avails of it go to support the government of the
+country which the goods are carried into. Travellers are allowed to take
+with them all that is necessary _for their own personal use, as
+travellers_, without paying any duty; but articles that are intended for
+sale as merchandise, or those which, though intended for the traveller's
+own use, are not strictly _personal_, are liable to pay duty. The
+principle is, that whatever the traveller requires for his own personal
+use, _in travelling_, is not liable to duty. What he does not so require
+must pay duty, no matter whether he intends to use it himself or to sell
+it.
+
+Many travellers do not understand this properly, and often get into
+difficulty by not understanding it, as we shall see in the sequel.
+
+Mr. George and Rollo went into the baggage room together, showing their
+passports as they passed through between the soldiers. They then walked
+slowly along the room, looking at the baggage, as it was arranged upon
+the counter, in search of their own.
+
+"I see _my_ trunk," said Mr. George, looking along at a little distance
+before him. "There it is."
+
+"And where do you suppose mine is?" asked Rollo.
+
+"I have not the least idea," said Mr. George. "I advise you to walk all
+around the room and see if you can find it; and when you find it, get it
+examined."
+
+Rollo, taking this advice, walked on, leaving Mr. George in the act of
+taking out his key in order to open his trunk for the purpose of
+allowing an officer to inspect it as soon as one should be ready.
+
+Rollo soon found his trunk. It was in a part of the room remote from his
+uncle's. Near his trunk was a very large one, which the officers were
+searching very thoroughly. They had found something in it which was not
+personal baggage and which the lady had not declared. Rollo could not
+see what the article was which the officers had found. It was something
+contained in a pretty box. The lady had put it into the bottom of her
+trunk. The officers had taken it out, and were now examining it. The
+lady stood by, seemingly in great distress.
+
+Rollo's attention, which had begun to be attracted by this scene, was,
+however, almost immediately called off from it by the voice of another
+officer, who pointed to his trunk and asked him if it was his.
+
+"Is that yours?" said the officer, in French.
+
+"Yes," replied Rollo, in the same language, "it is mine;" and so saying,
+he proceeded to take out his key and unlock the trunk.
+
+"Have you any thing to declare?" asked the man.
+
+Rollo looked perplexed. He did not know what the officer meant by asking
+him if he had any thing to declare. After a moment's hesitation he
+said,--
+
+"I don't know; but I will go ask my uncle."
+
+So Rollo went to the place where he had left his uncle George, and
+accosted him by saying,--
+
+"They want to know if I have any thing to _declare_. What do they mean?"
+
+"They mean whether you have any goods in your trunk that are liable to
+pay duty. Tell them no."
+
+So Rollo went back and told the officer that he had not any thing to
+declare. He then opened his trunk; but the officer, instead of examining
+it, shut down the lid, saying, "Very well;" and by means of a piece of
+chalk he marked it upon the top with some sort of character. A porter
+then took the trunk and carried it back to the train.
+
+Rollo perceived that the difficulty about the lady's baggage had been
+settled in some way or other, but he feared it was settled in a manner
+not very satisfactory to the lady herself; for, as the porters took up
+her trunk to carry it back, she looked quite displeased and out of
+humor.
+
+Rollo went back to the place where he had left his uncle George, and
+then they went together out to the platform. Here Rollo found the lady
+who had had difficulty about her baggage explaining the case to some
+friends that she found there. She seemed to be very indignant and angry,
+and was telling her story with great volubility. Rollo listened for a
+moment; but she spoke so rapidly that he could not understand what she
+said, as she spoke in French.
+
+"What does she say?" he asked, speaking to Mr. George.
+
+"She says," replied Mr. George, "that they were going to seize something
+that she had in her trunk because she did not declare it."
+
+"What does that mean?" said Rollo.
+
+"Why, the law is," said Mr. George, "that when people have any thing in
+their trunks that is dutiable, if they _declare_ it, that is,
+acknowledge that they have it and show it to the officers, then they
+have only to pay the duty, and they may carry the article in. But if
+they do not declare it, but hide it away somewhere in their trunks, and
+the officers find it there, then the thing is forfeited altogether. The
+officers seize it and sell it for the benefit of the government."
+
+"O, uncle George!" exclaimed Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George, "that is what they do; and it is right. If
+people wish to bring any thing that is subject to duty into any country
+they ought to be willing to pay the duty, and not, by refusing to pay,
+make other people pay more than their share."
+
+"If one man does not pay his duty," rejoined Rollo, "do the others have
+to pay more?"
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George, "in the end they do. At least I suppose so.
+Whatever the amount of money may be that is required for the expenses of
+government, if one man does not pay his share, the rest must make it up,
+I suppose."
+
+"They did not look into my trunk at all," said Rollo. "Why didn't they?
+I might have had ever so many things hid away there."
+
+"I suppose they knew from the circumstances of the case," said Mr.
+George, "that you would not be likely to have any smuggled goods in your
+trunk. They saw at once that you were a foreign boy, and knew that you
+must be coming to Switzerland only to make a tour, and that you could
+have no reason for wishing to smuggle any thing into the country. They
+scarcely looked into _my_ trunk at all."
+
+While Mr. George and Rollo had been holding this conversation they had
+returned to their places in the car, and very soon the train was in
+motion to take them into the town.
+
+Thus our travellers passed the Swiss frontier. In half an hour
+afterwards they were comfortably established at a large and splendid
+hotel called the Three Kings. The hotel has this name in three
+languages, English, French, and German, as people speaking those several
+languages come, in almost equal numbers, to Switzerland. Thus when you
+leave the station you may, in your directions to the coachman, say you
+wish to go to the Three Kings, or to the Trois Rois, or to the Drei
+Könige, whichever you please. They all mean the same hotel--the best
+hotel in Basle.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+BASLE.
+
+
+The city of Basle stands upon the banks of the Rhine, on the northern
+frontier of Switzerland. The waters of the Rhine are gathered from
+hundreds of roaring and turbid torrents which come out, some from vast
+icy caverns in the glaciers, some from the melting debris of fallen
+avalanches, some from gushing fountains which break out suddenly through
+crevices in the rocks or yawning chasms, and some from dark and
+frightful ravines on the mountain sides, down which they foam and tumble
+perpetually, fed by vast fields of melting snow above. The waters of all
+these torrents, being gathered at last into one broad, and deep, and
+rapid stream, flow to a vast reservoir called the Lake of Constance,
+where they repose for a time, or, rather, move slowly and insensibly
+forward, enjoying a comparative quiescence which has all the
+characteristics and effects of repose. The waters enter this reservoir
+wild and turbid. They leave it calm and clear; and then, flowing
+rapidly for one hundred miles along the northern frontier of
+Switzerland, and receiving successively the waters of many other streams
+that have come from hundreds of other torrents and have been purified in
+the repose of other lakes extending over the whole northern slope of
+Switzerland, they form a broad and rapid river, which flows swiftly
+through Basle, and then, turning suddenly to the northward, bids Basle
+and Switzerland farewell together.
+
+"And then where does it go?" said Rollo to Mr. George when his uncle had
+explained this thus far to him.
+
+"Straight across the continent to the North Sea," said Mr. George.
+
+Thus the whole northern slope of Switzerland is drained by a system of
+waters which, when united at Basle, form the River Rhine.
+
+The morning after Mr. George and Rollo arrived at Basle they were
+looking out upon the River Rhine from the windows of the hotel.
+
+"What a swift river!" said Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George.
+
+"And how blue the water is!" continued Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George. "The water of the streams which come from the
+Swiss mountains is turbid at first and very gray from the grinding up
+of the rocks in the _moraines_ and glaciers and by the avalanches."
+
+"What is a moraine?" asked Rollo.
+
+"I will explain it to you one of these days," said Mr. George, "when you
+come to see one."
+
+"And a glacier," said Rollo; "what is that?"
+
+"I will explain that to you, too, some other time," said Mr. George,
+"but not now; for the breakfast will come in in a minute or two."
+
+"Well," said Rollo, "I can hear while I am eating my breakfast."
+
+"That may be," replied Mr. George; "but I cannot lecture very well while
+I am eating _my_ breakfast."
+
+Rollo laughed. "I did not think of that," said he.
+
+"What queer boats!" continued Rollo, looking out again upon the river.
+"And there is a long bridge leading over to the other side. May I go out
+and walk over on that bridge after breakfast?"
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George, "you may go any where you please."
+
+"But suppose I should get lost," said Rollo. "What should I do then?"
+
+"I don't know," said Mr. George, "unless you should ask somebody to tell
+you the way to the Three Kings."
+
+"But perhaps they would not understand English," said Rollo.
+
+"Then you must say _Trois Rois_,[3a]
+which is the French name for the hotel," rejoined Mr. George.
+
+"But perhaps they would not understand French," said Rollo.
+
+"No," replied Mr. George; "I think it probable they would not; for
+people talk German generally in this part of Switzerland. In that case
+you must ask the way to _Drei Könige_."[3b]
+
+Here the waiter came in with the breakfast. It consisted of a pot of
+coffee, another of boiled milk, an omelette, some excellent cakes, and
+some honey. There was a long table extending up and down the room, which
+was a very large and handsome apartment, and there were besides several
+round tables in corners and in pleasant places near the windows. The
+breakfast for Mr. George and Rollo was put upon one of the round tables;
+and, in sitting down to it, Rollo took pains to place himself in such a
+manner that he could look out the window and see the water while he was
+eating.
+
+"What a dreadful river that would be to fall into!" said Rollo. "It runs
+so swift and looks so angry!"
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George. "It runs swift because the descent is very
+great. Switzerland is very high; and the water, in running from it,
+flows very swiftly."
+
+"I did not know that Switzerland was all high," said Rollo. "I knew that
+the mountains were high; but the valleys must be low."
+
+"No," said Mr. George; "it is all high. The bottoms of the valleys are
+higher than the tops of the mountains in many other countries. In going
+into Switzerland, we go up hill nearly all the way; and so, even when we
+are at the bottom of the deepest valleys in Switzerland, we are up very
+high. There is Chamouni, for example, which is a deep valley near the
+foot of Mont Blanc. The bottom of that valley is six or seven times as
+high as the top of the Palisades on the North River."
+
+"O, uncle George!" exclaimed Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "and it is so with all the Swiss valleys; and,
+accordingly, the water that comes down through them has a great descent
+to make in getting to the sea. Thus there are a great many falls, and
+cascades, and rapids; and, even in those places where the rivers run
+smoothly, the current is very swift and very strong."
+
+While Mr. George and Rollo were eating their breakfast the attention of
+Rollo was occupied partly by the prospect of the river as he saw it
+through the open window, and partly by the various groups of travellers
+who were constantly coming into the room, or going out, or taking their
+breakfasts in little parties at the tables. Some who had finished their
+breakfasts were looking at maps and guide books which they had spread
+out before them on the tables. The room was very large, and very
+beautiful; and, as it was lighted on the back side by a row of wide and
+lofty windows which looked out upon the river, it wore a very bright and
+cheerful expression. At one end of it were glass doors, which led into
+another room very similar to this, as it likewise had windows looking
+out upon the river. This room was used as a sort of sitting room and
+reading room. There was a table in the centre, with newspapers, some
+French, some English, and some German, lying upon it. Rollo determined
+to go into this room as soon as he had finished his breakfast to see who
+was there and what they were doing.
+
+"Rollo," said Mr. George, after a short pause, "do you wish to travel in
+Switzerland intelligently or blindly?"
+
+"What do you mean by that?" asked Rollo.
+
+"Why, do you wish to understand something of the general features of the
+country first, so as to know always, as we go travelling on, where you
+are, and where you are going, and what you are to expect to see, or
+would you rather not trouble yourself at all about this, but take things
+as they come along, and enjoy them as you see them, without thinking or
+caring what is to come next."
+
+"Which is the best way?" asked Rollo.
+
+"Either is a very good way," replied Mr. George. "There is a pleasure in
+understanding and anticipating, and there is also a pleasure in
+wondering what is to come next and meeting with surprises. You can take
+your choice."
+
+Rollo reflected a moment, and then he said that he thought he should
+like best to understand.
+
+"Very well," said Mr. George. "Then I will explain to you the general
+features of Switzerland. Switzerland--or at least that portion of it
+which is the chief scene of the rambles of tourists and
+travellers--consists substantially of a long and deep valley, extending
+from east to west through the centre, and bordered by a range of
+mountains on each side. The range of mountains on the northern side of
+this valley is, of course, towards Germany; the one on the southern
+side is towards Italy. On the north side of the northern range of
+mountains is a broad slope of land, extending a hundred miles towards
+the German frontier. On the southern side of the southern range of
+mountains is a steep and narrow slope, extending to the Italian
+frontier.
+
+"Thus we may say," continued Mr. George, "that Switzerland consists
+substantially of a broad northern slope of land and a narrow southern
+slope, with a deep valley between them. Do you understand this?"
+
+"Yes," said Rollo. "If I had some damp sand, and a little wooden shovel,
+I think I could make it."
+
+"People do make models of the Swiss valleys and mountains," said Mr.
+George. "In fact, they have maps of Switzerland, embossed with all the
+mountains in relief; and I wish very much that we had one here to look
+at."
+
+"There is one here," said Rollo, his face brightening up very luminously
+as he spoke. "I saw it hanging up in the gallery, and I did not know
+what it was. It must be that. I'll go and show it to you after
+breakfast."
+
+"I am very glad," said Mr. George. "I wished to see one very much. We
+will go and see it immediately after breakfast. But now let me tell you
+a little more about the country. You must not imagine that the northern
+slope, as I called it, is one smooth and uniform surface of descending
+land. There are mountains, and valleys, and lakes, and precipices, and
+waterfalls, and every other variety of mountain scenery scattered all
+over it, making it a most picturesque and romantic region. It is,
+however, on the whole, a slope. It begins with comparatively smooth and
+level land on the north and it terminates in a range of lofty mountain
+crests on the south; and you have to go over this crest somewhere, by
+some of the steep and difficult passes that cross it, to get into the
+central valley. We are on the margin of this slope now. When we leave
+here and strike into the heart of Switzerland we shall be gradually
+ascending it. I am going first to a place called Interlachen, which is
+in a deep valley far up this slope, just under the ridge of mountains.
+Interlachen is surrounded, in fact, by mountains, and a great many
+pleasant excursions can be made from it. We shall stop there a few days
+and make excursions, and then cross over by some of the mountain passes
+into the valley."
+
+"Well," said Rollo, in a tone of great satisfaction. "I shall like that;
+I should like to go over a mountain pass. Shall we go in a carriage, or
+on horseback."
+
+"That depends upon which of the passes we take," said Mr. George. "Some
+of them are carriage roads, some are bridle paths; and you ride over on
+mules or horses. Others are too steep and dangerous to ride over in any
+way. You have to go on foot, climbing up zigzag paths cut out of the
+rock, and over great patches of snow that horses and mules would sink
+into."
+
+"Let's go in one of those," said Rollo, straightening himself up.
+
+"Sometimes the path becomes narrower and narrower," continued Mr.
+George, "until it is finally lost among the rocks, and you have to
+clamber around the point of some rocky cliff a thousand feet in the air,
+with scarcely any thing but the jagged roughness of the rocks to cling
+to."
+
+"Yes, sir," said Rollo, eagerly. "Yes, sir. Let's go there. That's just
+the kind of road I want to go in."
+
+"Well, we'll see," said Mr. George. "The first thing is to go to
+Interlachen. That is in the heart of the mountains, and very near the
+passes which lead over into the valley. When we get there we will study
+the guide book and the maps and determine which way to go."
+
+"And after you get into the valley," said Rollo, "shall you go across
+it, and go over the mountains on the other side, into Italy?"
+
+"I don't know," said Mr. George. "Perhaps we shall not have time. I may
+think it is best to spend the time in rambling about among the mountains
+and glaciers near the head of the valley, where I believe is to be found
+the most stupendous scenery in all Switzerland."
+
+The breakfast was now nearly finished, though the process of eating it
+had been a good deal impeded by the conversation, so large a share of it
+having fallen to Mr. George. Mr. George, however, explained to Rollo
+that their first day's journey from Basle would be south, towards Berne,
+the capital of the country--a city which was situated near the centre of
+the northern slope which Mr. George had described.
+
+"Do we go by a railway?" asked Rollo.
+
+"No," said Mr. George; "by a diligence."
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 3a-3b: Mr. George, in speaking these words, did not pronounce
+them as you would suppose from the manner in which they are written. He
+pronounced them very much as if they were spelled Tru-ah Ru-ah. In the
+same manner, the German words, Drei Könige, he pronounced as if they
+were spelled Dhrai Ker-nig-ger.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+THE DILIGENCE.
+
+
+A diligence is a sort of stage coach used in France and Switzerland, and
+generally on the continent of Europe. It is constructed very
+differently, however, from an American stage coach, being divided into
+four distinct compartments. Rollo had seen a diligence in Paris, and so
+he could understand very easily the conversation which ensued between
+himself and his uncle in respect to the seats which they should take in
+the one in which they were to travel to Berne. In order, however, to
+enable the reader of this book to understand it, I must here give a
+brief description of this kind of vehicle. The engraving on page 77 is a
+very faithful representation of one of them. There are three windows in
+the side of it. Each of these windows leads to a different compartment
+of the coach. In addition to these three compartments, there is, over
+the foremost of these, on the top of the coach, another, making four in
+all. This compartment on the top is called the _banquette_.
+
+These coaches are so large that they have a conductor. The man who
+drives sometimes sits on a small seat placed in front of the banquette,
+and sometimes he rides on one of the horses. In either case, however, he
+has nothing to do but to attend to his team. The passengers and the
+baggage are all under the conductor's care.
+
+The compartment immediately beneath the banquette, which is the front
+compartment of the body of the coach, is called the _coupé_. The coupé
+extends across the whole coach, from one side to the other; but it is
+quite narrow. It has only one seat,--a seat facing the horses,--with
+places upon it for three passengers. There are windows in front, by
+which the passengers can look out under the coachman's seat when there
+is a coachman's seat there. The doors leading to the coupé are in the
+sides.
+
+The compartment immediately behind the coupé is called the _interior_.
+It is entirely separate from the coupé. There are two seats, which
+extend from one side of the coach to the other, and have places upon
+them for three passengers each, making six in all. The three passengers
+who sit on one of these seats must, of course, ride with their backs to
+the horses. The doors leading to the interior are in the sides. In fact,
+the interior has within exactly the appearance of a common hackney
+coach, with seats for six passengers.
+
+Behind the interior is the fourth compartment, which is called the
+_rotonde_. It is like a short omnibus. The door is behind, and the seats
+are on the sides. This omnibus compartment is so short that there is
+only room for three people on each side, and the seats are not very
+comfortable.
+
+Very genteel people, who wish to be secluded and to ride somewhat in
+style, take the coupé. The seats in the coupé are very comfortable, and
+there is a very good opportunity to see the country through the front
+and side windows. The price is much higher, however, for seats in the
+coupé than in any other part of the diligence.
+
+The mass of common travellers generally take places in the interior. The
+seats there are comfortable, only there is not a very good opportunity
+to see the country; for there are only two windows, one on each side, in
+the top of the door.
+
+People who do not care much about the style in which they travel, but
+only desire to have the best possible opportunity to view the country
+and to have an amusing time, generally go up to the banquette. The
+places here are cheaper than they are even in the interior, and very
+much cheaper than they are in the coupé.
+
+The cheapest place of all, however, is in the rotonde, which is the
+omnibus-like compartment, in the end of the diligence, behind. This
+compartment is generally filled with laborers, soldiers, and servants;
+and sometimes nurses and children are put here.
+
+The baggage is always stored upon the top of the diligence, behind the
+banquette, and directly over the interior and the rotonde. It is packed
+away very carefully there, and is protected by a strong leather
+covering, which is well strapped down over it. All these things you see
+plainly represented in the engraving.
+
+We now return to the conversation which was held between Rollo and Mr.
+George at the close of their breakfast.
+
+"I have got some letters to write after breakfast," said Mr. George,
+"and I should like to go directly to my room and write them. So I wish
+you would find out when the diligence goes next to Berne, and take
+places in it for you and me."
+
+"Well," said Rollo, "I will; only how shall I do it? Where shall I go?"
+
+"I don't know any thing about it," replied Mr. George. "The guide book
+says that there is a diligence from Basle to Berne; and I suppose there
+is an office for it somewhere about town. Do you think you can find
+it?"
+
+"I'll try," said Rollo. "But how do we take seats in it? Is there a book
+for us to write our names in, with the place where they are to call for
+us?"
+
+"I do not know any thing about it," said Mr. George. "All I know is,
+that I want to go to Berne with you some way or other in the diligence,
+and I wish to have you plan and arrange it all."
+
+"Well," said Rollo, "I will, if I can find out. Only tell me what places
+I shall take."
+
+"I don't care particularly about that," replied Mr. George; "only let it
+be where we can see best. It must be either in the coupé or in the
+banquette. We can't see at all, scarcely, in the other compartments."
+
+"Well," said Rollo, "I should like to be where I can see. But would you
+rather it would be in the coupé, or in the banquette?"
+
+"That is just as you please," replied Mr. George. "There are some
+advantages in being in the banquette."
+
+"What are they?" asked Rollo.
+
+"There are four advantages," replied Mr. George. "First, it is up very
+high, and is all open, so that you have a most excellent chance to see."
+
+"Yes," said Rollo. "I shall like that."
+
+"The second advantage," said Mr. George, "is, that it costs less. The
+places in the banquette are quite cheap."
+
+"Yes," said Rollo. "I like that. So we can save some of our money."
+
+"The third advantage," continued Mr. George, "is, that we have a great
+deal better opportunity to hear talking there. There are usually five
+persons in that part of the coach--the coachman, the conductor, and
+three passengers. That is, there will be one passenger besides you and
+me. He will probably be talking with the conductor part of the time, and
+the conductor will be talking with the coachman, and we shall be amused
+by hearing what they say."
+
+"But there are _six_ persons in the interior," said Rollo, "to talk."
+
+"True," replied Mr. George; "but, then, they are usually not so sociable
+there as they are up on the banquette. Besides, the noise of the wheels
+on the hard gravel roads is so loud there that we cannot hear very well.
+Then, moreover, when we stop to change horses, the hostlers and
+postilions come out, and our coachman and conductor often have a great
+deal of amusing conversation with them, which we can hear from the
+banquette; but we could not hear it, or see the process of harnessing
+and unharnessing, from the interior, nor even very well from the
+coupé."
+
+"Well," said Rollo. "I like that. But that makes only three advantages.
+You said there were four."
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George. "But as to the fourth, I do not know whether you
+will consider it an advantage or not."
+
+"What is it?" said Rollo. "I've no doubt but I shall."
+
+"Why, in getting up and down to and from the banquette you will have a
+great deal of hard climbing to do."
+
+"Yes," said Rollo. "I shall like that. They are all advantages--very
+great advantages indeed."
+
+So Rollo fully determined in his own mind that he would take places on
+the banquette. He thought that there was one disadvantage in that part
+of the coach; and that was, that in case of storm the rain would drive
+in directly upon them; but he found in the end that an excellent
+provision was made against this contingency.
+
+The young gentlemen had now finished their breakfasts; and so they rose
+and went out to what Rollo called the gallery, to see the embossed map
+of Switzerland which he said that he had seen hanging there. The plan of
+this hotel was very peculiar. In the centre of it was a very large,
+open hall, almost like a court, only it was covered above with a roof
+and lighted by a skylight. Around this hall there was, in each story, an
+open gallery, with a railing on one side, over which you could look down
+to the floor below; and on the other side, at short intervals, there
+were doors leading to the various apartments. Between these doors, and
+against the walls, were hanging maps, plans, pictures, and other
+embellishments, which gave to these galleries a very attractive
+appearance. Here and there, too, on the different stories, there were
+sofas or other seats, with persons sitting upon them. Some were sewing,
+and some were attending children who were playing near. At the two ends
+of the hotel there were broad staircases connected with these galleries
+and leading from one to the other. Besides the galleries there were long
+corridors, extending each way from the centre of the building to ranges
+of apartments situated in the wings. The hotel, in fact, was very
+spacious, and it was very admirably arranged.
+
+Rollo conducted Mr. George to the third story; and there, hanging
+against the wall, he found the embossed map of Switzerland which he had
+described. Mr. George and Rollo took this map down from its nail, and,
+seating themselves upon a settee which was near, they held it before
+them and examined it very attentively for some time. Mr. George showed
+Rollo the great central valley of Switzerland, with the ranges of
+mountains on each side of it. He showed him, too, the great slope of
+land which extended over the whole northern part of Switzerland. It was
+bounded on the north by the River Rhine and the frontier, and on the
+south by the great range of mountains which separated it from the
+valley. He showed him, too, the numerous lakes which were scattered over
+the surface of it.
+
+"You see," said he, "that the waters which come out from the glaciers
+and the snow fields, and down through the chasms and ravines in the
+mountain sides, flow on till they come to some valley or place of
+comparatively low land; and they spread all over this depression, and
+flow into it more and more until they fill it up and make a lake there.
+When the lake is full the surplus waters run off clear wherever they
+find a channel."
+
+"Is that the way the lakes are formed?" asked Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George. "You will see that it is so when we get up to
+them."
+
+"_Up_ to them?" said Rollo. "You mean down to them."
+
+"No," said Mr. George. "The lakes are up quite high. Many of them are
+far up the sides of the mountains. The water, in leaving them, runs very
+rapidly, showing that there is a great descent in the land where they
+are flowing. Sometimes, in fact, these streams and rivers, after they
+leave the lakes, form great cataracts and cascades in getting down to
+the level country below.
+
+"But now," continued Mr. George, "I must go to my writing, and you may
+see what you can do about the diligence."
+
+So Mr. George went away towards his room, leaving Rollo to hang up the
+embossed map and then to determine how he should go to work to ascertain
+what he was to do.
+
+Rollo found less difficulty than he had anticipated in procuring places
+in the diligence. He first inquired of the clerk, at the office of the
+hotel. The clerk offered to send a porter with him to show him the way
+to the diligence office; but Rollo said that he would prefer to go
+himself alone, if the clerk would tell him in what part of the town it
+was.
+
+So the clerk gave Rollo the necessary direction, and Rollo went forth.
+
+He found the diligence office very easily. In fact, he recognized the
+place at once when he came near it, by seeing several diligences
+standing before it along the street. He entered under an archway. On
+entering, he observed several doors leading to various offices, with
+inscriptions over each containing the names of the various towns to
+which the several diligences were going. At length he found BERNE.
+
+Rollo did not know precisely in what way the business at such an office
+was to be transacted; but he had learned from past experience that all
+that was necessary in order to make himself understood in such cases
+was, to speak the principal words that were involved in the meaning that
+he was intending to convey, without attempting to make full and complete
+sentences of them. In cases where he adopted this mode of speaking he
+was accustomed usually to begin by saying that he could not speak French
+very well.
+
+Accordingly, in this instance he went to the place where the clerk was
+sitting and said,--
+
+"I do not speak French very well. Diligence to Berne. Two places.
+Banquette."
+
+"Yes, yes," said the clerk. "I understand very well."
+
+The clerk then told him what the price would be of two seats on the
+banquette, and Rollo paid the money. The clerk then made out and signed
+two very formal receipts and gave them to Rollo.
+
+Rollo walked back towards the hotel, studying his receipts by the way;
+but he could not understand them, as they were in the German language.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+RIDE TO BERNE.
+
+
+At length the time arrived for the departure of our two travellers from
+Basle. A porter from the hotel carried their trunks to the diligence
+office, while Rollo and Mr. George walked. When they got to the place
+they found the diligence in the archway, and several men were employed
+in carrying up trunks and carpet bags to the top of it and stowing them
+away there. In doing this they ascended and descended by means of a long
+step ladder. The men took Mr. George's trunk and Rollo's and packed them
+away with the rest. There were several persons who looked like
+passengers standing near, waiting, apparently, for the diligence to be
+ready.
+
+Among them were two children, a girl and a boy, who seemed to be about
+Rollo's age. They were plainly but neatly dressed. They were sitting on
+a chest. The boy had a shawl over his arm, and the girl had a small
+morocco travelling bag in her hand.
+
+The girl looked a moment at Rollo as he came up the archway, and then
+cast her eyes down again. Her eyes were blue, and they were large and
+beautiful and full of meaning. There was a certain gentleness in the
+expression of her countenance which led Rollo to think that she must be
+a kindhearted and amiable girl. The boy looked at Rollo too, and
+followed him some time with his eyes, gazing at him as he came up the
+archway with a look of interest and curiosity.
+
+It was not yet quite time for the diligence to set out. In fact, the
+horses were not yet harnessed to it; and during the interval Rollo and
+Mr. George stood by, watching the process of getting the coach ready for
+the journey, and contrasting the appearance of the vehicle, and of the
+men employed about it, and the arrangements which they were making, with
+the corresponding particulars in the setting off of a stage coach as
+they had witnessed it in America. While doing this Rollo walked about
+the premises a little; and at length, finding himself near the two
+children on the chest, he concluded to venture to accost the boy.
+
+"Are you going in this diligence?" said he, speaking in French.
+
+"Yes," replied the boy.
+
+"So am I," said Rollo. "Can you speak English?"
+
+"Yes," said the boy. He spoke the yes in English.
+
+"Are you going to Berne?" asked Rollo.
+
+"I don't know," said the boy.
+
+The girl, who had been looking at Rollo during this conversation, here
+spoke, and said that they _were_ going to Berne.
+
+"We are going in that diligence," said she.
+
+"So am I," said Rollo. "I have got a seat on the banquette."
+
+"Yes," rejoined the boy. "I wished to have a seat on the banquette, so
+that I could see; but the seats were all engaged before my father went
+to the office; so we are going in the coupé; but I don't like it half so
+well."
+
+"Nor I," said the girl.
+
+"Where is your father?" asked Rollo.
+
+"He is gone," replied the boy, "with mother to buy something at a shop a
+little way from here. Lottie and I were tired, and so we preferred to
+stay here. But they are coming back pretty soon."
+
+"Are you all going to ride in the coupé?" said Rollo; "because, there
+will not be room. There is only room for three in the coupé."
+
+"I know it," said Lottie; "but then, as two of us are children, father
+thought that we could get along. Father had a plan for getting Adolphus
+a seat in the interior; but he was not willing to go there, because, he
+said, he could not see."
+
+Just at this moment the father and mother of Adolphus and Lottie came up
+the archway into the court yard where the diligence was standing. The
+horses had been brought out some minutes before and were now nearly
+harnessed. The gentleman seemed to be quite in a hurry as he came up;
+and, seeing that the horses were nearly ready, he said,--
+
+"Now, children, get in and take your places as soon as possible."
+
+So they all went to the coach, and the gentleman attempted to open the
+door leading to the coupé. It was fastened.
+
+"Conductor," said he, speaking very eagerly to the conductor, who was
+standing near, "open this door!"
+
+"There is plenty of time," said the conductor. "There is no need of
+haste."
+
+However, in obedience to the request of the gentleman, the conductor
+opened the door; and the gentleman, helping his wife in, first,
+afterwards lifted the children in, and then got in himself. The
+conductor shut the door.
+
+"Come, uncle George," said Rollo, "is not it time for us to get up to
+our places?"
+
+"No," said Mr. George. "They will tell us when the proper time comes."
+
+So Mr. George and Rollo remained quietly standing by the side of the
+diligence while the hostlers finished harnessing the horses. Rollo
+during this time was examining with great interest the little steps and
+projections on the side of the coach by which he expected that he and
+Mr. George were to climb up to their places.
+
+It turned out in the end, however, that he was disappointed in his
+expectation of having a good climb; for, when the conductor was ready
+for the banquette passengers to take their places, he brought the step
+ladder and planted it against the side of the vehicle, and Mr. George
+and Rollo went up as easily as they would have gone up stairs.
+
+When the passengers were seated the step ladder was taken away, and a
+moment afterwards the postilion started the horses forward, and the
+ponderous vehicle began to move down the archway, the clattering of the
+horses' hoofs and the lumbering noise of the wheels sounding very loud
+in consequence of the echoes and reverberations produced by the sides
+and vaulting of the archway. As soon as the diligence reached the street
+the postilion began to crack his whip to the right and left in the most
+loud and vehement manner, and the coach went thundering on through the
+narrow streets of the town, driving every thing from before it as if it
+were a railway train going express.
+
+[Illustration: THE DILIGENCE AT THE OFFICE.]
+
+"Uncle George," exclaimed Rollo, "they have forgotten the conductor!"
+
+Rollo was, in fact, quite concerned for a few minutes lest the conductor
+should have been left behind. He knew where this official's proper seat
+was; namely, at the left end of the banquette--that is, at the right
+hand, as seen in the engraving; and as he was not there, and as he knew
+that all the other seats were full, he presumed, of course, that he had
+been left behind. He was relieved of these fears, however, very soon;
+for, to his great astonishment, he suddenly perceived the head of the
+conductor coming up the side of the coach, followed gradually by the
+rest of his body as he climbed up to his place. Rollo wondered how he
+could manage to get on and climb up, especially as the coach was at this
+time thundering along a descending portion of the street with a speed
+and uproar that was terrific.
+
+Rollo, though at first very much astonished at this performance of the
+conductor, afterwards ceased to wonder at it; for he found that the
+conductor could ascend and descend to and from his seat at any time
+without any difficulty, even while the horses were going at the top of
+their speed. If the snapper of the coachman's whip got caught in the
+harness so that he could not liberate it, as it often did on the road,
+the conductor would climb down, run forward to the horses, set the
+snapper free, fall back to the coach, catch hold of the side and climb
+up, the coachman cracking his whip as soon as it was freed, and urging
+on his horses to a gallop, without troubling himself at all to consider
+how the conductor was to get up again.
+
+But to return to the story. When Rollo found that the conductor was safe
+he amused himself by looking to the right and left into the windows of
+the houses at the second story. His seat was so high that he could do
+this very easily. Many of these windows were open, and persons were
+sitting at them, sewing or reading. At some of them groups of children
+were standing. They were looking out to see the diligence go by. The
+street was so narrow that Rollo found himself very near these persons as
+he passed by.
+
+"A little nearer," said he to his uncle George, "and I could shake hands
+with them."
+
+In a very few minutes the coach passed under a great arched gateway
+leading through the wall of the city, and thence over a sort of
+drawbridge which spanned the moat. Immediately afterwards it entered a
+region of smooth, green fields, and pretty rural houses, and gardens,
+which presented on every side very charming pictures to the view.
+
+"Now, uncle George," said Rollo, "won't we have a magnificent ride?"
+
+Rollo was not disappointed in his anticipations. He found the ride to
+Berne a very magnificent one indeed. The road was smooth and hard as a
+floor. From side to side it was flat and level, and all the ascents
+which it made were so gradual that the horses trotted on at their full
+speed, without any cessation, sweeping around long and graceful curves,
+which brought continually into view new landscapes, each one, as it
+seemed, more varied and beautiful than the one which had preceded it.
+From his lofty seat on the banquette Rollo looked abroad over a very
+wide extent of country; and when the coach stopped at the villages or
+post houses to change horses, he could look down with great advantage
+upon the fresh teams as they were brought out and upon the groups of
+hostlers and post boys employed in shifting the harness. He could hear,
+too, all that they said, though they generally talked so fast, and
+mingled their words with so much laughter and fun, that Rollo found that
+he could understand but little.
+
+[Illustration: THE DILIGENCE ON THE ROAD.]
+
+Rollo was particularly struck, as he was whirled swiftly along the road,
+by the appearance of the Swiss houses. They were very large, and were
+covered with a very broad roof, which extended so far over the walls on
+every side as to appear like a great, square, broad-brimmed hat.
+Under this roof were platforms projecting from the house, one on each
+story, like piazzas. These piazzas were very broad. They were bordered
+by balustrades on the outer edge, and were used for sheds, store houses,
+and tool rooms. There were wood piles, wagons, harrows, and other
+farming implements, bundles of straw, and stones piled up here and there
+upon them. In fact, the Swiss cottager has his house, and barn, and
+sheds, and outhouses all under one roof; and what there is not room for
+within he stores without upon these platforms.
+
+These houses were situated in the midst of the most beautiful fields and
+gardens, the whole forming a series of very charming landscapes. The
+view, too, as seen in many places along the road, was bounded at the
+south by a long line of snow-covered mountains, which glittered
+brilliantly in the sun and imparted an inexpressible fascination to the
+prospect.
+
+The diligence arrived at the city of Berne near night, and Mr. George
+and Rollo remained in that city until the next day at noon. Rollo was
+extremely interested in walking about the streets in the morning. In
+almost all the streets of Berne the second stories of the houses are
+extended over the sidewalks, the superincumbent masonry being supported
+by massive square pillars, built up from the edge of the sidewalk
+below, and by arches above. Of course, in going along the sidewalk the
+passenger is sheltered by the roof above him, and in the worst weather
+he can go all over the city without being exposed to the rain excepting
+at the street crossings. This arrangement is a very convenient one,
+certainly, for rainy weather; but it gives the streets a very gloomy and
+forbidding appearance at other times.
+
+Still Rollo was very much amused in walking along under these arcades;
+the more so because, in addition to the shops in the buildings
+themselves, there were usually stalls and stands, between and around the
+pillars, filled with curious things of all sorts, which were for sale;
+so that in walking along he had a display of goods on both sides of him.
+These goods consisted of toys, books, pictures, tools, implements, and
+curiosities, including a multitude of things which Rollo had never seen
+or heard of before.
+
+Berne is famous for bears. The bear is, in fact, the emblem of the city,
+and of the canton, or province, in which Berne is situated. There is a
+story that in very ancient times, when Berchtold, the original founder
+of the city, was beginning to build the walls, a monstrous bear came out
+of the woods to attack him. Berchtold, with the assistance of the men
+who were at work with him on the walls, killed the bear. They gloried
+greatly in this exploit, and they preserved the skin and claws of the
+bear for a long time as the trophy of their victory. Afterwards they
+made the bear their emblem. They painted the figure of the animal on
+their standards. They made images and effigies of him to ornament their
+streets, and squares, and fountains, and public buildings. They stamped
+the image of him on their coins; and, to this day, you see figures of
+the bear every where in Berne. Carved images of Bruin in every attitude
+are for sale in the shops; and, not contented with these lifeless
+symbols, the people of Berne for a long time had a pit, or den, similar
+to those in the Garden of Plants at Paris, where they kept living
+specimens for a long time.[4] This den was just without the gates of the
+city. The guide book which Rollo read as he was coming into Berne, to
+see what it said about the city, stated that there was one bear in the
+garden at that time; and he wished very much to go and see it, but he
+did not have a very convenient opportunity.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 4: See Rollo in Paris for an account of these dens for bears
+in the Garden of Plants.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+THE VALLEY OF THE AAR.
+
+
+After spending several hours in Berne and wondering greatly at the many
+strange things which they saw there, Mr. George and Rollo took their
+passage in another diligence for Thun, which was a town still farther in
+towards the heart of Switzerland on the way to Interlachen. It took only
+three or four hours to go to Thun. The town, they found, was small,
+compact, surrounded by walls, and very delightfully situated at the end
+of a long lake, which extended from that point very far in among the
+mountains. There was one thing very remarkable about Thun, at least it
+seemed very remarkable to Rollo, although he found afterwards that it
+was a common thing in Switzerland; and that was, that the hotels were
+all outside the town.
+
+There was reason in this; for the town--though it was a very curious and
+romantic place, with a church on a terraced hill at one end of it,
+surrounded with a beautifully ornamented church yard, with seats and
+bowers here and there at the corners of it, which overlooked the country
+and commanded charming views of the lake and mountains--was still, in
+the main, very contracted and confined, and hotels would not be
+pleasantly situated in it. A little beyond the town, however, on the
+margin of the lake, was a delightful region of gardens and pleasure
+grounds, with four or five very handsome hotels among them. Mr. George
+and Rollo stopped to dine at one of these hotels. From the windows of it
+there were the most brilliant and charming prospects of the lake and the
+surrounding mountains on one side, and on the other a view of the town
+and of two or three very pretty little steamboats lying at a pier.
+
+Behind the hotel the land very soon ascended rapidly, the ascent
+terminating at last in crags and precipices which towered at a vast
+height above. Among these heights Rollo saw a sort of pavilion, built on
+a small projecting point of a hill, four or five hundred feet, perhaps,
+above the hotel.
+
+"Do you think any body can get up there?" said he to his uncle George.
+
+They were standing, when Rollo said this, on the back piazza of the
+hotel--a very beautiful place, looking out upon green lawns and
+gardens.
+
+"Certainly," said Mr. George. "They would not have built such a lookout
+as that without making a way to get to it."
+
+"Then let's go up there," said Rollo, "and see what we can see."
+
+"Very well," said Mr. George; "lead the way, and I will follow."
+
+"Well, come," said Rollo, moving on. "I am not sure that I can find the
+way; but I'll try."
+
+So saying, Rollo chose from among several broad and smooth gravel walks
+which he saw diverging from the house in various directions, among the
+groves and copses of shrubbery that ornamented the grounds behind it,
+the one which seemed to turn most nearly in the right direction; and,
+running along before, he was soon out of sight of the hotel. The path
+meandered gracefully among shrubs, and flowers, and pretty green
+openings a little way, and then began to ascend the hill, sometimes in a
+winding course and sometimes by zigzags. There were seats placed here
+and there at proper points for rest. At length both Rollo and Mr. George
+were surprised to find coming suddenly into view a small building, which
+stood in a very romantic and picturesque spot about half way up the
+hill, which proved, on examination, to be a little chapel. It was an
+Episcopal chapel, built here by the proprietor of the hotel for the
+accommodation of his English guests on Sundays. There are a great many
+English travellers in Switzerland, more perhaps from that nation than
+from any other, and the English people are very much pleased with the
+opportunity to worship God, when in foreign lands, according to the
+rites and usages of their own national church. Americans, on the other
+hand, when travelling, generally prefer to attend churches in which the
+worship is conducted according to the usages of the people in whose
+country they chance to be.
+
+After looking at the little English chapel as long as they wished, our
+two travellers went on up the path. The ascent soon became very steep,
+and the way led through close woods, which allowed of no opportunity to
+see, except that now and then a brief glimpse was obtained of the hotel,
+with the gardens and grounds around it, and the gentlemen and ladies
+walking upon the piazza in the rear of it.
+
+After about a quarter of an hour of hard climbing up a wild and romantic
+but very smooth and well made path the two young gentlemen reached the
+pavilion. Here a boundless and most magnificent prospect was opened
+before them. Rollo was bewildered with astonishment and delight; and
+even Mr. George, who was usually very cool and quiet on such occasions,
+seemed greatly pleased. I shall not, however, attempt to describe the
+view; for, though a fine view from an elevated point among lakes and
+mountains is a very exciting thing actually to witness and enjoy, it is
+by no means an interesting thing to describe.
+
+"What a magnificent prospect!" said Rollo.
+
+Rollo, as he said this, was looking down at the more near and distinctly
+detailed objects which were to be seen directly below him at the bottom
+of the hill, towards the right--such as the hotels, the gardens, the
+roads, the pier, the steamboats, and the town. The attention of Mr.
+George, however, was attracted by the more grand and sublime features of
+the view which were to be seen in the other direction--the lake, the
+forests, and the mountains. The mountains that were near were darkened
+by the groves of evergreens that clothed their sides, and some of them
+were made more sombre still by the shadows of floating clouds; while
+over these there towered the glittering summits of more distant ranges,
+white with everlasting snow.
+
+"How cold they look!" said Mr. George; "how icy cold!"
+
+"How little they look! how very little! See, uncle George," said Rollo,
+pointing; "they are really good large steamboats, and you would think
+they were only playthings."
+
+"There are some men walking along the road," continued Rollo, "just like
+little dots."
+
+"See the banks of snow on that mountain, Rollo!" said Mr. George. "They
+look like drifts of dry, light snow, as they shine in the sun on a
+bitter cold winter day."
+
+"Why doesn't it melt?" asked Rollo.
+
+"Because it is up so high," said Mr. George. "As you go up in the air
+from the surface of the earth the air grows colder and colder, until at
+last, when you get up to a certain height, it is cold enough to freeze."
+
+"Is it so every where?" asked Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George. "If you were to put some water into a vial and
+tie it to the tail of a kite, and send it up into the air _high enough_,
+the water would freeze, and when it came down you would find the water
+turned into ice."
+
+"Should I?" asked Rollo. "Would it if I were to send the kite up in
+America?"
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George, "any where, all over the earth."
+
+"I mean to try it," said Rollo.
+
+"You can't try it very well," replied Mr. George; "for you could not
+easily send a kite up high enough. It would take a very long time."
+
+"How long?" asked Rollo.
+
+"Why, that depends upon what part of the earth it is that you make the
+experiment in," replied Mr. George. "At the equator, where the sun is
+very hot, you would have to go up very high. In temperate regions, as in
+Switzerland or in most parts of America, you would not have to go up so
+high; and farther north, near the pole, it is only necessary to go up a
+very little way."
+
+"And how high must we go up in Switzerland?" asked Rollo.
+
+"About eight or nine thousand feet, I believe," said Mr. George. "Some
+of the Alpine summits are sixteen thousand feet high; and so the ice and
+snow lie upon the upper portions of them all the time."
+
+The young gentlemen remained some time longer in the pavilion, gazing
+upon the stupendous scenery around them, and looking down the lake which
+lay before them in the bottom of a deep and narrow valley and extended
+in among the mountains much farther than they could see.
+
+"We are going along that lake," said Rollo "are we not?"
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "it is the Lake of Thun."
+
+"We are going in one of the steamboats that are lying at the pier, are
+we not?" said Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "unless you would prefer going along the shore."
+
+"Is there a road along the shore?" asked Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "there are two, I believe, one on each side of
+the lake. These roads run along at the foot of the mountains, far
+enough, however, above the level of the lake to enable us to enjoy
+excellent views of it. But we cannot see the mountains from it as well
+as we can from the lake itself."
+
+"Then," said Rollo, "if we go by the road we can see the lake best; and
+if we go by the steamboat we can see the mountains best."
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "that is the state of the case, exactly."
+
+"Then I think we had better go by the boat," said Rollo; "for I would
+rather see the mountains."
+
+"So would I," rejoined Mr. George. "Besides, there will be plenty of
+occasions on which we shall be obliged to go by land; therefore we had
+better go by water when we can, in order to have a variety. And, if we
+are going in the steamer, we must go back to the hotel; for it is almost
+time for the steamer to sail."
+
+So Mr. George led the way, and Rollo followed, down the path by which
+they had come up. As they thus walked down they continued the
+conversation which they had commenced in the pavilion.
+
+"What shall we come to when we get to the end of the lake?" asked Rollo.
+"Does the lake reach to the end of the valley?"
+
+"No," said Mr. George. "The valley is about fifty miles long, I suppose,
+and this lake is only about fifteen miles long; but there is another in
+the same valley a little farther on. The valley is the valley of the
+Aar. That is the name of the stream which flows through it. It is one of
+the most remarkable valleys in Switzerland. I have been studying it in
+the guide book and on the map. It is about fifty miles long, and it
+winds in a serpentine manner between two lofty ranges of mountains, so
+steep and high that it is not possible to make any road over them."
+
+"None at all?" asked Rollo.
+
+"No," replied Mr. George. "They cannot make any road--nothing but bridle
+paths. The mountains, too, that border the valley along the sides close
+across at the head of it; so that if you go up the valley at all you
+cannot get out of it without climbing over the mountains; unless,
+indeed, you are willing to come back the same way that you went."
+
+"I would rather climb over the mountains," said Rollo.
+
+"So would I," said Mr. George. "The beginning of this valley," continued
+Mr. George "is in the very heart of the most mountainous part of
+Switzerland, and the River Aar commences there in prodigious cascades
+and waterfalls, which come down over the cliffs and precipices or gush
+out from enormous crevices and chasms, and make quite a river at the
+very beginning."
+
+"Can we go there and see them?" said Rollo.
+
+"Yes," replied Mr. George; "I mean to go and see them. The place is
+called Meyringen. The cascades and waterfalls at Meyringen are
+wonderful. One of them, the guide book says, makes dreadful work in
+times of flood. It comes out from a great chasm in the rocks in the face
+of a precipice at a vast height from the ground; and, in times of flood,
+it brings down such a mass of sand, gravel, stones, rubbish, and black
+mud as sometimes to threaten to overwhelm the village."
+
+"Is there a village there?" asked Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "the village of Meyringen. This waterfall comes
+down out of the mountain just back of the village; and they have had to
+build up an immense wall, a quarter of a mile long and twenty or thirty
+feet high, to keep the torrent of mud and sand out of the streets. Once
+it broke through and filled up the church four feet deep all over the
+floor with mud, and gravel, and stones. Some of the stones were bigger
+than your head."
+
+Rollo was very much interested in hearing this account of the Fall of
+Alpbach,--for that was the name of this unmanageable cataract,--and
+expressed a very strong desire to go to Meyringen and see it.
+
+"We will go," said Mr. George. "It lies at the head of the valley of the
+Aar, which we are now entering. The River Aar, after being formed by
+these cataracts and cascades, flows through the valley, making two long
+lakes in its course. This Lake of Thun is the second one. The other is
+the Lake of Brienz. The upper end of the Lake of Thun is a few miles
+only from the lower end of the Lake of Brienz; and Interlachen is
+between the two."
+
+[Illustration: THE LAKE SHORE.]
+
+About an hour after this conversation our two travellers might have been
+seen sitting together upon the deck of the little steamer which was
+paddling its way merrily along the lake, and occupying themselves in
+viewing and talking about the extraordinary spectacle presented by
+the slopes of the mountains which bordered the lake on either side, and
+which seemed to shut the lake in, as it were, between two immense walls
+of green.
+
+Rollo was extremely interested, as he sailed along, in viewing these
+mountain slopes, exploring the landscape carefully in every part,
+studying out all the objects of interest which it contained--the
+forests, the cultivated fields, the great Swiss cottages, the
+pasturages, the little chalets, the zigzag paths leading up and down,
+and all the other picturesque and striking characteristics of a Swiss
+landscape.
+
+The slopes were very beautiful, and densely inhabited; and they were
+really very steep, though they looked much steeper than they were, as
+all hills and slopes do to a person looking upon them from below and
+facing them.
+
+"It seems," said Rollo to Mr. George, "as if two broad strips of green
+country were set up on edge for us to see them as we are sailing along."
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "with all the houses, farms, pasturages, flocks
+of sheep, and herds of cattle clinging to the sides of them."
+
+The chief charm, however, of the views which presented themselves to the
+young travellers as they glided along the lake was the glittering
+refulgence of the snow-clad peaks which appeared here and there through
+openings among the nearer mountains. The view of these peaks was
+occasionally obstructed by masses of vapor which were floating along the
+tops of the mountain ranges; but still they were seen frequently enough
+to fill the minds both of Rollo and Mr. George with wonder and delight.
+
+After gazing at this scenery for nearly an hour until his curiosity in
+respect to it was in some measure satisfied, Rollo began to turn his
+attention to his fellow-travellers on board the steamer. These
+travellers were seated singly or in groups about the deck of the little
+vessel, and they were all tourists, journeying for pleasure. Here was a
+small group of young men--students apparently--with knapsacks on their
+backs, spyglasses strapped to their sides, and maps and guide books in
+their hands. There was a young lady seated with her father, both dressed
+for the mountains, and gazing with curiosity and wonder on the views
+presented along the shores of the lake. In another place was a family of
+parents and children--the father studying a map which he had spread open
+upon his knees, the mother sitting by his side, silent and thoughtful,
+as if her mind was far away, dwelling, perhaps, upon the little ones
+which had been left at home because they were too young to be taken on
+such a tour. Some of these people were talking French, some English, and
+some German. Rollo looked about upon these various groups for a time,
+and then said,--
+
+"Are all these travellers going to see the mountains, do you suppose,
+uncle George?"
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "I suppose so. There is very little travelling
+in Switzerland except pleasure travelling. I presume they are all going
+to see the mountains and the other scenery of the country."
+
+"I should not think that the ladies could climb up the mountains very
+high," said Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George, "they can; for in almost all places where people
+wish to go there are excellent paths. Where it is too steep for roads
+the mountaineers make zigzag paths, not only for travellers, but for
+themselves, in order that they may go up and down to their chalets and
+pasturages. The people of the country have been making and improving
+these paths now for two thousand years or more, and they have got them
+at last in very excellent condition; so that, except the steepness, they
+are very easy and very comfortable."
+
+"Why, uncle George," said Rollo, "look!"
+
+So saying, Rollo pointed his finger out over the water. The mountains
+had suddenly and entirely disappeared. The vapors and clouds which they
+had seen floating among them half an hour before had become dense and
+continuous, and had, moreover, settled down over the whole face of the
+country in such a manner as to shut out the mountains wholly from view.
+Nothing was to be seen but the water of the lake, with a margin of low
+and level but beautiful country along the shores of it.
+
+In fact, there was nothing but the smallness of the steamer and the
+costumes and character of the passengers to prevent Rollo and Mr. George
+from supposing that they were steaming it from New York to Albany, up
+the North River, in America.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+INTERLACHEN.
+
+
+About eight o'clock on the morning after our travellers arrived at
+Interlachen Rollo awoke, and, rising from his bed, he walked to the
+window and looked out, expecting to find before him a very grand
+prospect of Alpine scenery; but there was nothing of the kind to be
+seen.
+
+Before the house was a garden, with a broad gravel walk leading out
+through it to the road. On each side of this walk were parterres of
+shrubbery and flowers. There were also two side approaches, wide enough
+for roads. They came from the main road through great open gates, at a
+little distance to the right and left of the hotel. The main road, which
+was broad and perfectly level, extended in front of the house; and two
+or three Swiss peasants, in strange costume, were passing by. Beyond
+were green and level fields, with fruit and forest trees rising here and
+there among them, forming a very rich and attractive landscape. The sky
+was covered with clouds, though they were very fleecy and bright, and in
+one place the sun seemed just ready to break through.
+
+"I thought Interlachen was among the mountains," said Rollo to himself;
+"and here I am in the middle of a flat plain.
+
+"I will go and see uncle George," he continued after a moment's pause,
+"and ask him what it means."
+
+So Rollo opened the door of his room and went out into what in America
+would be called the entry, or hall. He found himself in a long corridor
+paved with stone, and having broad stone staircases leading up and down
+from it to the different stories. In one place there was a passage way
+which led to a window that seemed to be on the back side of the hotel.
+Rollo went there to look out, in order to see what the prospect might be
+in that direction.
+
+He saw first the gardens and grounds of the hotel, extending for a short
+distance in the rear of the building, and beyond them he obtained
+glimpses of a rapidly running stream. The water was very turbid. It
+boiled and whirled incessantly as it swept swiftly along the channel.
+
+"Ah," said Rollo, "that is the River Aar, I suppose, flowing through
+Interlachen from one lake to the other. I thought I should see it
+somewhere here; but I did not know whether it was before the hotels or
+behind them."
+
+A short distance beyond the stream Rollo saw the lower part of a
+perpendicular precipice of gray rock. All except the lower part of this
+precipice was concealed by the fogs and clouds, which seemed to settle
+down so low upon the landscape in all directions as to conceal almost
+every thing but the surface of the ground.
+
+"I wonder how high that precipice is," said Rollo to himself.
+
+"I wonder whether I could climb up to the top of it," he continued,
+still talking to himself, "if I could only find some way to get across
+the river? There must be some way, I suppose. Perhaps there is a
+bridge."
+
+Rollo then turned his eye upward to look at the clouds. In one place
+there seemed to be a break among them, and the fleecy masses around the
+break were slowly moving along. The place where Rollo was looking was
+about the middle of the sky; that is, about midway between the horizon
+and the zenith.[5] While Rollo was looking at this break, which seemed,
+while he looked at it, to brighten up and open more and more, he saw
+suddenly, to his utter amazement, a large green tree burst into view in
+the midst of it, and then disappear again a moment afterwards as a fresh
+mass of cloudy vapor drifted over. Rollo was perfectly bewildered with
+astonishment. To see a green tree, clear and distinct in form and bright
+with the beams of the sun which just at that instant caught upon it,
+breaking out to view suddenly high up among the clouds of the sky,
+seemed truly an astonishing spectacle. Rollo had scarcely recovered from
+the first emotion of his surprise before the clouds parted again, wider
+than before, and brought into view, first a large mass of foliage, which
+formed the termination of a grove of trees; then a portion of a smooth,
+green field, with a flock of sheep feeding upon it, clinging apparently
+to the steep slope like flies to a wall; and finally a house, with a
+little blue smoke curling from the chimney. Rollo was perfectly beside
+himself with astonishment and delight at this spectacle; and he
+determined immediately to go and ask his uncle to come and see.
+
+He accordingly left the window and made all haste to his uncle's door.
+He knocked. His uncle said, "Come in." Rollo opened the door. His uncle
+was standing by the window of his room, looking out. This was on the
+front side of the hotel.
+
+"Uncle George!" said Rollo, "Uncle George! Come and look out with me at
+the back window. There is a flock of sheep feeding in a green field away
+up in the sky!"
+
+"Come and look here!" said Mr. George.
+
+So Rollo went to the window where Mr. George was standing, and his
+astonishment at what he saw was even greater than before. The clouds had
+separated into great fleecy masses and were slowly drifting away, while
+through the openings that appeared in them there were seen bright and
+beautiful views of groves, green pasturages, smiling little hamlets and
+villages, green fields, and here and there dark forests of evergreen
+trees, with peaks of rocks or steep precipices peeping out among them.
+At one place, through an opening or gap in the nearer mountains, there
+could be seen far back towards the horizon the broad sides and towering
+peak of a distant summit, which seemed to be wholly formed of vast
+masses of ice and snow, and which glittered with an inexpressible
+brilliancy under the rays of the morning sun.
+
+"That is the Jungfrau,"[6] said Mr. George.
+
+"That great icy mountain?" said Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George.
+
+"Can we get up to the top of it?" asked Rollo.
+
+"No," said Mr. George. "People tried for more than a thousand years to
+get to the top of the Jungfrau before they could succeed."
+
+"And did they succeed at last?" asked Rollo.
+
+"Yes," replied Mr. George. "You see there is a sort of goatlike animal,
+called the _chamois_,[7] which the peasants and mountaineers are very
+fond of hunting. These animals are great climbers, and they get up among
+the highest peaks and into the most dangerous places; and the hunters,
+in going into such places after them, become at last very expert in
+climbing, and sometimes they become ambitious of surpassing each other,
+and each one wishes to see how high he can get. So one time, about
+twenty-five years ago, a party of six of these hunters undertook to get
+to the top of the Jungfrau, and at last they succeeded. But it was a
+dreadfully difficult and dangerous operation. It was fifteen miles'
+steep climbing."
+
+"Not steep climbing all the way," said Rollo.
+
+"No," said Mr. George, "I suppose not all the way. There must have been
+some up-and-down work, and some perhaps tolerably level, for the first
+ten miles; but the last five must have been a perpetual scramble among
+rocks and ice and over vast drifts of snow, with immense avalanches
+thundering down the mountain sides all around them."
+
+"I wish I could go and see them," said Rollo.
+
+"You can go," replied Mr. George. "There is a most excellent chance to
+see the face of the Jungfrau very near; for there is another mountain
+this side of it, with a narrow valley between. This other mountain is
+called the Wengern Alp. It is about two thirds the height of the
+Jungfrau, and is so near it that from the top of it, or near the top,
+you can see the whole side of the Jungfrau rising right before you and
+filling half the sky, and you can see and hear the avalanches thundering
+down the sides of it all day long."
+
+Rollo was quite excited at this account, and was very eager to set off
+as soon as possible to go up the Wengern Alp.
+
+"How do we get there?" asked he.
+
+"You see this great gap in the near mountains," said Mr. George,
+pointing.
+
+"Yes," said Rollo.
+
+"That gap," continued Mr. George, "is the mouth of a valley. I have been
+studying it out this morning in my guide book. There is a good carriage
+road leading up this valley. It is called the valley of the Lütschine,
+because that is the name of the river which comes down through it. In
+going up this valley for the first two or three miles we are going
+directly towards the Jungfrau."
+
+"Yes," said Rollo. "That I can see very plainly."
+
+This was indeed very obvious; for the Jungfrau, from the windows of the
+hotel, was seen through the great gap in the near mountains which Mr.
+George had pointed out as the mouth of the valley of the Lütschine. In
+fact, had it not been for that gap in the near mountains, the great
+snow-covered summit could not have been seen from the hotels at all.
+
+"We go up that valley," continued Mr. George, "about three miles, and
+then we come to a fork in it; that is, to a place where the valley
+divides into two branches, one turning off to the right and the other to
+the left. Directly ahead there is an enormous precipice, I don't know
+how many thousand feet high, of bare rock.
+
+"One of these branch valleys," continued Mr. George, "leads up to one
+side of the Wengern Alp and the Jungfrau, and the other to the other
+side. We may take the right-hand valley and go up five or six miles to
+Lauterbrunnen, or we may take the left-hand branch and go up to
+Grindelwald. Which way do you think we had better go?"
+
+"I do not know," said Rollo. "Can we get up to the Wengern Alp from
+either valley?"
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George. "We can go up from one of these valleys, and
+then, after stopping as long as we choose on the Alp, we can continue
+our journey and so come down into the other, and thus see them both. One
+of the valleys is famous for two great glaciers that descend into it.
+The other is famous for immense waterfalls that come down over the
+precipices at the sides."
+
+"Let us go first and see the waterfalls," said Rollo.
+
+"Well," said Mr. George, "we will. We shall have to turn to the right in
+that case and go to Lauterbrunnen. When we get to Lauterbrunnen we shall
+have to leave our carriage and take horses to go up to the Wengern Alp.
+The way is by a steep path, formed in zigzags, right up the sides of the
+mountains."
+
+"How far is it?" asked Rollo.
+
+"I don't know precisely," said Mr. George; "but it is a good many miles.
+It takes, at any rate, several hours to go up. We can stop at the
+Wengern Alp as long as we please and look at the Jungfrau and the
+avalanches, and after that go on down into the valley of Grindelwald on
+the other side, and so come home."
+
+"But how can we get our carriage?" asked Rollo.
+
+"O, they send the carriage back, I believe," said Mr. George, "from
+Lauterbrunnen to the great precipice at the fork of the valley."
+
+Mr. George, having thus finished his account of the topography of the
+route to the Wengern Alp, went away from the window and returned to the
+table where he had been employed in writing some letters just before
+Rollo had come in. Rollo was left at the window. He leaned his arms upon
+the sill, and, looking down to the area below, amused himself with
+observing what was going on there.
+
+There were several persons standing or sitting upon the piazza.
+Presently he heard the sound of wheels. A carriage came driving up
+towards the door. A postilion was riding upon one of the horses. There
+were two servants sitting on the box; and there was a seat behind, where
+another servant and the lady's maid were sitting. The carriage stopped,
+the door was opened, and a lady and gentleman with two boys, all dressed
+like travellers, got out, and were ushered into the house with great
+civility by the landlord. The baggage was taken off and carried in, and
+then the carriage was driven away round the corner.
+
+This was an English nobleman and his family, who were making the tour of
+Switzerland, and were going to spend a few days at Interlachen on the
+way.
+
+As soon as the bustle produced by this arrival had subsided, Rollo's
+attention was attracted by a very sweet musical sound which seemed to be
+produced by something coming along the road.
+
+"What can that be, I wonder?" said he to himself.
+
+Then in a little louder tone, but without turning round,--
+
+"Uncle George, here is some music coming. What do you think it is?"
+
+Mr. George paused a moment to listen, and then went on with his writing.
+
+The mystery was soon solved; for, in a few moments after Rollo had
+spoken, he saw a large flock of goats coming along. These goats all had
+bells upon their necks,--or at least a great many of them were so
+provided,--and these bells, having a soft and sweet tone, produced, when
+their sounds were blended together, an enchanting harmony. The goats
+walked demurely along, driven by one or two goatherds who were following
+them, and soon disappeared behind the trees and shrubbery. Very soon
+after their forms had disappeared from view the music of their bells
+began to grow fainter and fainter until it ceased to be heard.
+
+"It was a flock of goats going by," said Rollo.
+
+Rollo next heard voices; and, turning in the direction whence the sounds
+proceeded, he saw a party of young men coming up towards the door of the
+hotel along the gravelled avenue. This was a party of German students
+making the tour of Switzerland on foot. They had knapsacks on their
+backs, and stout walking sticks and guide books in their hands. They
+came up talking and laughing together, full of hilarity and glee; and
+yet some of them seemed very tired. They had walked six miles that
+morning, and were now going to stop at this hotel for breakfast. Rollo
+listened to their conversation; but, as it was in the German language,
+he could not understand one word that they were saying.
+
+"Dear me!" said he; "I wish that every body would talk either French or
+English."
+
+As soon as the students had passed on into the inn Rollo heard another
+carriage coming. He looked and found that it was a _char à banc_. A char
+à banc is a small, one-horse carriage, which looks upon the outside very
+much like what is called a carryall in America, only it is much
+narrower. It differs very much, however, from a carryall within; for it
+has only a seat for two persons, and that is placed sideways, with the
+end to the horses. You ride in it, therefore, sideways, as you do in an
+omnibus, only in an omnibus there are two seats, one on each side, and
+the door is at the end; whereas in the char à banc there is a seat only
+on one side, and the door is opposite to it on the other. The seat is
+large and comfortable, being very much like a short sofa. Some people,
+therefore, describe a char à banc as a sofa placed endwise on wheels.
+
+The char à banc stopped before the door of the hotel; and the coachman,
+getting down from his seat in front, opened the door. A very
+dignified-looking gentleman stepped out; and, after standing a moment on
+the piazza to give some directions about his portmanteau, he went into
+the office of the hotel.
+
+Rollo, looking down from the window of his uncle George's room, could
+see all these things very plainly; for the roof which protected the
+piazza from the rain was up at the top of the hotel, and therefore did
+not interfere with his view.
+
+After having made the above-described observations from the window,
+Rollo began to think that he would like to go down below to the door,
+where he thought he could see what was going on to better advantage.
+
+"Uncle George," said he, "when are you going down to breakfast?"
+
+"In about half an hour," said Mr. George. "I have got another letter to
+write."
+
+"Then I believe I will go down now," said Rollo, "and wait there till
+you come."
+
+"Very well," said Mr. George; "and please order breakfast, and then it
+will be all ready when I get my letter finished."
+
+"What shall I order?" asked Rollo.
+
+"I don't know," said Mr. George. "I don't know what it is the fashion to
+have for breakfast here. Ask them what they have got, and then choose
+for yourself and me."
+
+So Rollo, putting on his cap, went down stairs.
+
+He stood for a little time on the piazza, looking at the strange dresses
+of the people that were sitting or standing there and listening to the
+outlandish sounds of the foreign languages which they were speaking. At
+a little distance out upon the gravel walk, near the shrubbery, were a
+party of guides waiting to be hired for mountain excursions. Some of
+these guides were talking with travellers, forming plans, or agreeing
+upon the terms on which they were to serve. Rollo, after observing these
+groups a little time, walked along the piazza towards a place where he
+saw an open door in another large building, which, being connected with
+the piazza, evidently belonged to the hotel. In fact, it was a sort of
+wing. As there were people going in and out at this door, Rollo thought
+that he could go in too.
+
+He accordingly walked along in that direction. Before he reached the
+door he came to a place which, though open to the air, was covered with
+a roof, and was so enclosed by the buildings on three sides as to make
+quite a pleasant little nook. It was ornamented by various shrubs and
+flowers which grew from tubs and large pots arranged against the sides
+of it. There were several tables in this space, with chairs around them,
+and one or two parties of young men were taking their breakfast here.
+
+"This will be a good place for uncle George and me to have our
+breakfast," said Rollo to himself, "and we can see the Jungfrau all the
+time while we are eating it."
+
+Rollo then went on into the open door. He found himself ushered into a
+very large and beautiful drawing room. There were a great many sofas
+arranged around the sides of it, on which parties of ladies and
+gentlemen were sitting talking together; while other gentlemen, their
+hats in their hands, were standing before them or walking about the
+floor. There was no carpet; but the floor was formed of dark wood
+highly polished, and was very beautiful. There was a fireplace in one
+corner of this room; but there was no fire in it. No fire was necessary;
+for it was a warm and pleasant morning.
+
+On the front side of the room was a row of windows looking out towards
+the road. On the back side was a door opening to another large room,
+where Rollo saw a table spread and several people sitting at it eating
+their breakfast.
+
+"Ah," said Rollo, "there is the dining room! I will go in there and see
+what we can have for breakfast."
+
+So he walked through the drawing room and entered the room beyond. He
+found that this inner room was quite a spacious apartment; and there
+were one or two long tables extending the whole length of it.
+
+There were various separate parties sitting at these tables taking
+breakfast. Some were just beginning. Some had just ended. Some were
+waiting for their breakfast to be brought in. Near where Rollo was
+standing two gentlemen were seated at the table, with a map of
+Switzerland spread before them; and, instead of being occupied with
+breakfast, they were planning some excursion for the day.
+
+Rollo looked out a vacant place at the table and took his seat. A waiter
+came to him to know what he would have.
+
+"I want breakfast for two," said Rollo, "my uncle and myself. What have
+you got for us?"
+
+The waiter repeated a long list of very nice things that he could give
+Rollo and his uncle for breakfast. From among these Rollo chose a beef
+steak, some hot rolls and butter, some honey, and some coffee. The
+waiter went out to prepare them.
+
+In about ten minutes Mr. George came down. He took his seat by the side
+of Rollo; and very soon afterwards the waiter brought in what had been
+ordered. Rollo liked the breakfast very much, especially the honey.
+
+It is very customary to have honey for breakfast in Switzerland.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 5: The zenith is the point in the heavens that is directly
+over our heads.]
+
+[Footnote 6: Pronounced _Yoongfrow_.]
+
+[Footnote 7: Pronounced _shamwawh_.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+LAUTERBRUNNEN.
+
+
+"Come, uncle George," said Rollo, "make haste. We are all ready."
+
+Rollo was sitting in a char à banc when he said this, at the door of the
+hotel. He and his uncle were going to make an excursion up the valley of
+the Lütschine to Lauterbrunnen, and thence to ascend the Wengern Alp, in
+order to see the avalanches of the Jungfrau; and Rollo was in haste to
+set out.
+
+"Come, uncle George," said he, "make haste."
+
+Mr. George was coming out of the hotel slowly, talking with the
+landlord.
+
+"The guide will take you to Lauterbrunnen," said the landlord, "in the
+char à banc; and then he will send the char à banc back down the valley
+to the fork, and thence up to Grindelwald to wait for you there. You
+will go up to the Wengern Alp from Lauterbrunnen; and then, after
+staying there as long as you please, you will keep on and come down to
+Grindelwald on the other side, where you will find the carriage ready
+for you.[8] But it seems to me that you had better take another horse."
+
+"No," said Mr. George. "One will do very well."
+
+Mr. George had a carpet bag in his hand. It contained nightdresses, to
+be used in case he and Rollo should conclude to spend the night on the
+mountain. He put the carpet bag into the carriage, and then got in
+himself. The landlord shut the door, and the coachman drove away. Thus
+they set out on their excursion.
+
+This excursion to the Wengern Alp was only one of many similar
+expeditions which Rollo and Mr. George made together while they were in
+Switzerland. As, however, it is manifestly impossible to describe the
+whole of Switzerland in so small a volume as this, I shall give a
+narrative of the ascent of the Wengern Alp as a sort of specimen of
+these excursions. I think it better that I should give a minute and
+particular account of one than a more vague and general, and so less
+satisfactory, account of several of them.
+
+Rollo had taken the precaution to have the curtains of the char à banc
+rolled up, so that he and Mr. George could see out freely on all sides
+of them as they rode along.
+
+The view which was first presented to their observation was that of the
+lawns and gardens in the midst of which the hotels were situated. These
+grounds were connected together by walks--some straight, others
+winding--which passed through bowers and gateways from one enclosure to
+the other. In these walks various parties were strolling; some were
+gathering flowers, others were gazing at the mountains around, and
+others still were moving quietly along, going from one hotel to another
+for the purpose of taking a pleasant morning walk or to make visits to
+their friends. The whole scene was a bright and very animated one; but
+Rollo had not time to observe it long; for the char à banc, after moving
+by a graceful sweep around a copse of shrubbery, passed out through a
+great gateway in the road, and the hotels and all that pertained to them
+were soon hidden from view by the great trees which grew along the
+roadside before them.
+
+The coachman, or rather the guide,--for the man who was driving the char
+à banc was the one who was to act as guide up the mountain when they
+reached Lauterbrunnen,--turned soon into a road which led off towards
+the gap, or opening, in the nearer mountains which Mr. George and Rollo
+had seen from the windows of the hotel. The road was very smooth and
+level, and the two travellers, as they rode along, had a fine view of
+the fields, the hamlets, and the scattered cottages which bordered the
+road on the side to which their faces were turned.
+
+"This char à banc," said Rollo, "is an excellent carriage for seeing the
+prospect on _one_ side of the road."
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "but there might be the most astonishing
+spectacle in Switzerland on the other side without our knowing any thing
+about it unless we turned round expressly to see."
+
+So saying, Mr. George turned in his seat and looked at that side of the
+road which had been behind them. There was a field there, and a young
+girl about seventeen years old--with a very broad-brimmed straw hat upon
+her head, and wearing a very picturesque costume in other respects--was
+seen digging up the ground with a hoe.
+
+The blade of the hoe was long, and it seemed very heavy. The girl was
+digging up the ground by standing upon the part which she had already
+dug and striking the hoe down into the hard ground a few inches back
+from where she had struck before.
+
+"Do the women work in the fields every where in Switzerland, Henry?"
+said Mr. George.
+
+The guide's name was Henry. He could not speak English, but he spoke
+French and German. Mr. George addressed him in French.
+
+"Yes, sir," said Henry; "in every part of Switzerland where I have
+been."
+
+"In America the women never work in the fields," said Mr. George.
+
+"Never?" asked Henry, surprised.
+
+"No," said Mr. George; "at least, I never saw any."
+
+"What do they do, then," asked Henry, "to spend their time?"
+
+Mr. George laughed. He told Rollo, in English, that he did not think he
+had any satisfactory answer at hand in respect to the manner in which
+the American ladies spent their time.
+
+"I pity that poor girl," said Rollo, "hoeing all day on such hard
+ground. I think the men ought to do such work as that."
+
+"The men have harder work to do," said Mr. George; "climbing the
+mountains to hunt chamois, or driving the sheep and cows up to the upper
+pasturages in places where it would be very difficult for women to go."
+
+"We must turn round every now and then," said Rollo, "and see what is
+behind us, or we may lose the sight of something very extraordinary."
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "I heard of a party of English ladies who once
+went out in a char à banc to see a lake. It happened that when they came
+to the lake the road led along the shore in such a manner that the
+party, as they sat in the carriage, had their backs to the water. So
+they rode along, looking at the scenery on the land side and wondering
+why they did not come to the lake. In this manner they continued until
+they had gone entirely around the lake; and then the coachman drove them
+home. When they arrived at the hotel they were astonished to find that
+they had got home again; and they called out to the coachman to ask
+where the lake was that they had driven out to see. He told them that he
+had driven them all round it!"
+
+Rollo laughed heartily at this story, and Henry would probably have
+laughed too if he had understood it; but, as Mr. George related it in
+English, Henry did not comprehend one word of the narration from
+beginning to end.
+
+In the mean time the horse trotted rapidly onward along the valley,
+which seemed to grow narrower and narrower as they proceeded; and the
+impending precipices which here and there overhung the road became more
+and more terrific. The Lütschine, a rapid and turbid stream, swept
+swiftly along--sometimes in full view and sometimes concealed. Now and
+then there was a bridge, or a mill, or some little hamlet of Swiss
+cottages to diversify the scene. Mr. George and Rollo observed every
+thing with great attention and interest. They met frequent parties of
+travellers returning from Grindelwald to Lauterbrunnen--some on foot,
+some on horseback, and others in carriages which were more or less
+spacious and elegant, according to the rank or wealth of the travellers
+who were journeying in them.
+
+At length they arrived at the fork of the valley. Here they gazed with
+astonishment and awe at the stupendous precipice which reared its
+colossal front before them and which seemed effectually to stop their
+way.
+
+On drawing near to it, however, it appeared that the valley divided into
+two branches at this point, as has already been explained. The road
+divided too. The branch which led to the right was the road to
+Lauterbrunnen. The one to the left Rollo supposed led to Grindelwald. To
+make it sure, he pointed to the left-hand road and said to Henry,--
+
+"To Grindelwald?"
+
+"Yes, sir," said Henry, "to Grindelwald."
+
+The scenery now became more wild than ever. The valley was narrow, and
+on each side of it were to be seen lofty precipices and vast slopes of
+mountain land--some smooth and green, and covered, though very steep,
+with flocks and herds, and others feathered with dark evergreen forests,
+or covered with ragged rocks, or pierced with frightful chasms. Here and
+there a zigzag path was seen leading from hamlet to hamlet or from peak
+to peak up the mountain, with peasants ascending or descending by them
+and bearing burdens of every form and variety on their backs. In one
+case Rollo saw a woman bringing a load of hay on her back down the
+mountain side.
+
+The valley, bordered thus as it was with such wild and precipitous
+mountain sides, might have had a gloomy, or at least a very sombre,
+expression, had it not been cheered and animated by the waterfalls that
+came foaming down here and there from the precipices above, and which
+seemed so bright and sparkling that they greatly enlivened the scene.
+These waterfalls were of a great variety of forms. In some cases a thin
+thread of water, like the jet from a fire engine, came slowly over the
+brink of a precipice a thousand feet in the air, and, gliding smoothly
+down for a few hundred feet, was then lost entirely in vapor or spray.
+In other cases, in the depth of some deep ravine far up the mountain,
+might be seen a line of foam meandering for a short distance among the
+rocks and then disappearing. Rollo pointed to one of these, and then
+said to Mr. George,--
+
+"Uncle, look there! There is a short waterfall half way up the mountain;
+but I cannot see where the water comes from or where it goes to."
+
+"No," said Mr. George. "It comes undoubtedly from over the precipice
+above, and it flows entirely down into the valley; but it only comes out
+to view for that short distance."
+
+"Why can't we see it all the way?" asked Rollo.
+
+"I suppose," said Mr. George, "it may flow for the rest of the way in
+the bottom of some deep chasms, or it may possibly be that it comes
+suddenly out of the ground at the place where we see it."
+
+"Yes," said Rollo. "I found a great stream coming suddenly out of the
+ground at Interlachen."
+
+"Where," asked Mr. George.
+
+"Right across the river," said Rollo. "I went over there this morning."
+
+"How did you get over?" said Mr. George.
+
+"I went over on a bridge," said Rollo. "I took a little walk up the
+road, and pretty soon I came to a bridge which led across the river. I
+went over, and then walked along the bank on the other side. There was
+only a narrow space between the river and the precipice. The ground
+sloped down from the foot of the precipice to the water. I found several
+very large springs breaking out in this ground. One of them was _very_
+large. The water that ran from it made a great stream, large enough for
+a mill. It came up right out of the ground from a great hole all full of
+stones. The water came up from among the stones."
+
+"And where did it go to?" asked Mr. George.
+
+"O, it ran directly down into the river. The place was rather steep
+where it ran down, so that it made a cascade all the way."
+
+"I should like to have seen it," said Mr. George.
+
+"Yes," said Rollo; "it was very curious indeed to see a little river
+come up suddenly out of the ground from a great hole full of stones."
+
+Talking in this manner about what they had seen, our travellers went on
+till they came to Lauterbrunnen. They found a small village here, in the
+midst of which was a large and comfortable inn. There were a number of
+guides and several carriages in the yards of this inn, and many parties
+of travellers coming and going. The principal attraction of the valley,
+however, at this part of it, is an immense waterfall, called the Fall of
+the Staubach, which was to be seen a little beyond the village, up the
+valley. This is one of the most remarkable waterfalls in all
+Switzerland. A large stream comes over the brink of a precipice nearly a
+thousand feet high, and descends in one smooth and continuous column for
+some hundreds of feet, when it gradually breaks, and finally comes down
+upon the rocks below a vast mass of foam and spray.
+
+Rollo and Mr. George could see this waterfall and a great many other
+smaller ones which came streaming down over the faces of the precipices,
+along the sides of the valley, as they came up in the char à banc,
+before they reached the inn.
+
+"I don't see how such a large river gets to the top of such a high
+hill," said Rollo.
+
+That this question should have arisen in Rollo's mind is not surprising;
+for the top of the precipice where the Staubach came over seemed, in
+fact, the summit of a sharp ridge to any one looking up to it from the
+valley below; and Rollo did not imagine that there was any land above.
+The apparent wonder was, however, afterwards explained, when our
+travellers began to ascend the mountain on the other side of the valley
+that afternoon to go up to the Wengern Alp.
+
+The guide drove the char à banc to the door of the inn, and Mr. George
+and Rollo got out. They went into the inn and ordered dinner.
+
+"We are going to see the Staubach," said Mr. George to the waiter, "and
+we will be back in half an hour."
+
+"Very well," said the waiter; "your dinner shall be ready."
+
+So Mr. George and Rollo came out of the inn again in order to go and see
+the waterfall.
+
+They were beset at the door by a number of young men and boys, and also
+by several little girls, some of whom wanted to sell them minerals or
+flowers which they had gathered among the rocks around the waterfall;
+and others wished to guide them to the place.
+
+"To the Staubach? To the Staubach?" said they. "Want a guide? Want a
+guide?"
+
+They said this in the German language. Mr. George understood enough of
+German to know what they meant; but he could not reply in that language.
+So he said, in French,--
+
+"No; we do not wish any guide. We can find the way to the Staubach
+ourselves. There it is, right before our eyes."
+
+Mr. George, while he was saying this, was taking out some small change
+from his pockets to give to the children. He gave a small coin apiece to
+them all.
+
+Seeing this, the boys who had wished to guide him to the Staubach became
+more clamorous than ever.
+
+"To the Staubach?" said they. "To the Staubach? Want a guide? Want a
+guide?"
+
+Mr. George paid no further attention to them; but, saying "Come, Rollo,"
+walked on.
+
+The would-be guides followed him a short distance, still offering their
+services; but, finding soon that Mr. George would not have any thing
+more to say to them, they gradually dropped off and went back to the inn
+to try their fortune with the next arrival.
+
+Mr. George and Rollo walked on along a narrow road, which was bordered
+by queer, picturesque-looking huts and cottages on either hand, with
+gardens by the sides of them, in which women and girls were hoeing or
+weeding. They met two or three parties of ladies and gentlemen returning
+from the Staubach; and presently they came to a place where, close to
+the side of the road, was a small shop, before which a party of ladies
+and gentlemen had stopped, apparently to look at something curious.
+
+Mr. George and Rollo went to the place and found that it was a shop for
+the sale of carved toys and images such as are made in many parts of
+Switzerland to be sold to travellers for souvenirs of their tour through
+the country. There were shelves put up on the outside of the shop, each
+side of the door, and these shelves were covered with all sorts of
+curious objects carved in white or yellow fir, or pine. There were
+images of Swiss peasants with all sorts of burdens on their backs, and
+models of Swiss cottages, and needle boxes, and pin cases, and match
+boxes, and nut crackers, and groups of hunters on the rocks, or of goats
+or chamois climbing, and rulers ornamented with cameo-like carvings of
+wreaths and flowers, and with the word "Staubach" cut in ornamental
+letters.
+
+Rollo was greatly interested in this store of curiosities, so much so,
+in fact, that for the moment all thoughts of the Staubach were driven
+from his mind.
+
+"Let us buy some of these things, uncle George," said he.
+
+"And carry them over the Wengern Alp?" said Mr. George.
+
+"Yes," said Rollo. "They won't be very heavy. We can put them in the
+carpet bag."
+
+"Well," said Mr. George, "you may buy one or two specimens if you wish,
+but not many; for the guide has got the carpet bag to carry, and we must
+not make it very heavy."
+
+"Or we can send them in the carriage round to Grindelwald," said Rollo,
+"and not have to carry them at all."
+
+"So we can," said Mr. George.
+
+Rollo accordingly bought two Swiss cottages, very small ones, and a nut
+cracker. The nut cracker was shaped like a man's fist, with a hole in
+the middle of it to put the nut in. Then there was a handle, the end of
+which, when the handle was turned, was forced into the hollow of the
+fist by means of a screw cut in the wood, and this would crack the nut.
+
+While Rollo was paying for his toys he felt a small hand taking hold of
+his own, and heard a voice say, in English,--
+
+"How do you do?"
+
+The English "How do you do?" is a strange sound to be heard in these
+remote Swiss valleys.
+
+Rollo turned round and saw a boy look up to him with a smile, saying
+again at the same time,--
+
+"How do you do?"
+
+In a moment Rollo recognized the boy whom he had seen at Basle in the
+court yard of the diligence office while he had been waiting there for
+the horses to be harnessed. His sister Lottie was standing near; and
+she, as well as her brother, appeared to be much pleased at seeing Rollo
+again. Rollo had a few minutes' conversation with his young friends, and
+then they separated, as Rollo went on with his uncle to see the
+waterfall; while they, having already been with their father and mother
+to see it, went back to the inn.
+
+Mr. George had recommended to Rollo not to buy too many specimens of the
+carving, not only on account of the difficulty of transporting them, but
+also because he thought that they would probably find a great many other
+opportunities to purchase such things before they had finished their
+rambles in Switzerland. He was quite right in this supposition. In fact,
+Rollo passed three more stands for selling such things on the way to the
+Staubach.
+
+Mr. George and Rollo continued their walk along the road, looking up
+constantly at the colossal column of water before them, which seemed to
+grow larger and higher the nearer they drew to it. At length they
+reached the part of the road which was directly opposite to it. Here
+there was a path which turned off from the road and led up through the
+pasture towards the foot of the fall. The entrance to this path was
+beset by children who had little boxes full of crystals and other
+shining minerals which they wished to sell to visitors for souvenirs of
+the place.
+
+Mr. George and Rollo turned into this path and attempted to advance
+towards the foot of the fall; but they soon found themselves stopped by
+the spray. In fact, the whole region all around the foot of the fall,
+for a great distance, was so full of mist and driving spray that going
+into it was like going into a rain storm. Mr. George and Rollo soon
+found that they were getting thoroughly wet and that it would not do to
+go any farther.
+
+"And so," said Rollo, in a disappointed tone, "though we have taken the
+pains to come all this way to see the waterfall, we can't get near
+enough to see it after all."
+
+Mr. George laughed.
+
+"I wish we had brought an umbrella," said Rollo.
+
+"An umbrella would not have done much good," replied Mr. George. "The
+wind whirls about so much that it would drive the spray upon us
+whichever way we should turn the umbrella."
+
+"The path goes on a great deal nearer," said Rollo. "Somebody must go
+there, at any rate, without minding the spray."
+
+"Perhaps," said Mr. George, "when the wind is in some other quarter, it
+may blow the spray away, so that people can go nearer the foot of the
+fall without getting wet. At any rate, it is plain that we cannot go any
+nearer now."
+
+Saying these words, Mr. George led the way back towards the road, and
+Rollo followed him.
+
+After retreating far enough to get again into a dry atmosphere, they
+stopped and looked upward at the fall. It seemed an immense cataract
+coming down out of the sky. After gazing at the stupendous spectacle
+till their wonder and admiration were in some measure satisfied, they
+returned to the inn, where they found an excellent dinner all ready for
+them. While they were thus employed in eating their dinner, Henry was
+engaged in eating his, with at least as good an appetite, in company
+with the other guides, in the servants' hall.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 8: See the map at the commencement of the first chapter.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+THE WENGERN ALP.
+
+
+It was about twelve o'clock when Rollo and Mr. George, having finished
+their dinner, came out into the yard of the inn for the purpose of
+setting out for the ascent of the mountain.
+
+"Well, Rollo," said Mr. George, "now for a a scramble."
+
+Thus far the road which the young gentlemen had travelled since leaving
+Interlachen had been quite level and smooth, its course having been
+along the bottom of the valley, which was itself quite level, though
+shut in on both sides by precipitous mountains. Now they were to leave
+the valley and ascend one of these mountain sides by means of certain
+zigzag paths which had been made with great labor upon them, to enable
+the peasants to ascend and descend in going to and from their hamlets
+and pasturages.
+
+The paths, though very steep and very torturous, are smooth enough for
+horses to go up, though the peasants themselves very seldom use horses.
+A horse would eat as much grass, perhaps, as two cows. They prefer,
+therefore, to have the cows, and do without the horse. And so every
+thing which they wish to transport up and down the mountain they carry
+on their backs.
+
+There were various other guides in the yard of the inn besides Henry:
+some were preparing apparently for the ascent of the mountain with other
+parties; others were bringing up carriages for people who were going to
+return to Interlachen. Henry, when he saw Mr. George and Rollo coming
+out, asked them if they were ready.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George. "Bring the horse. You shall ride first, Rollo."
+
+Mr. George was to have but one horse for himself and Rollo, and they
+were to ride it by turns. He thought that both he himself and Rollo
+would be able to walk half way up the mountain, and, by having one horse
+between them, each could ride half the way.
+
+Besides, it is less fatiguing, when you have a long and steep ascent to
+make, to walk some portion of the way rather than to be on horseback all
+the time.
+
+There was another consideration which influenced Mr. George. Every
+additional horse which should be required for the excursion would cost
+about two dollars a day, including the guide to take care of him; and,
+as Mr. George expected to spend at least two days on the excursion, it
+would cost four dollars more to take two horses than to take only one.
+
+"And I think," said Mr. George to Rollo, after having made this
+calculation, "we had better save that money, and have it to buy
+beautiful colored engravings of Swiss scenery with when we get to
+Geneva."
+
+"I think so too," said Rollo.
+
+So it was concluded to take but one horse with them, on the
+understanding that each of the travellers was to walk half the way.
+
+Rollo accordingly, when the horse was brought to the door, climbed up
+upon his back with the guide's assistance, and, after adjusting his feet
+to the stirrup, prepared to set out on the ascent. His heart was
+bounding with excitement and delight.
+
+When all was ready the party moved on, Rollo on the horse and Mr. George
+and Henry walking along by his side. They proceeded a short distance
+along the road, and then turned into a path which led towards the side
+of the valley opposite to the Staubach. They soon reached the foot of
+the slope, and then they began to ascend. The path grew more and more
+steep as they proceeded, until at length it became very precipitous; and
+in some places the horse was obliged to scramble up, as it were, as if
+he were going up stairs. Rollo clung to his seat manfully in all these
+places; and he would have been sometimes afraid were it not that, in
+every case where there could be even any apparent danger, Henry would
+come to his side and keep by him, ready to render assistance at a
+moment's notice whenever any should be needed. In this way the party
+moved slowly on up the face of the mountain, making many short turns and
+windings among the rocks and going back and forth in zigzags on the
+green declivities. Sometimes for a few minutes they would be lost in a
+grove of firs, or pines; then they would come out upon some rounded
+promontory of grass land or projecting peak of rocks; and a few minutes
+afterwards they would move along smoothly for a time upon a level, with
+a steep acclivity, rough with rocks and precipices on one side, and an
+abrupt descent on the other down which a stone would have rolled a
+thousand feet into the valley below.
+
+Of course the view of the valley became more commanding and more
+striking the higher they ascended. Rollo wished at every turn to stop
+and look at it. He did stop sometimes, the guide saying that it was
+necessary to do so in order to let the horse get his breath a little;
+for the toil for such an animal of getting up so steep an ascent was
+very severe. Rollo would have stopped oftener; but he did not like to be
+left behind by his uncle George, who, being active and agile, mounted
+very rapidly. Mr. George would often shorten his road very much by
+climbing directly up the rocks from one turn of the road to the other;
+while the horse, with Rollo on his back, was compelled to go round by
+the zigzag.
+
+At last, after they had been ascending for about half an hour, Mr.
+George stopped, at a place where there was a smooth stone for a seat by
+the side of the path, to wait for Rollo to come up; and, when Rollo
+came, Mr. George took him off the horse to let him rest a little. The
+view of the valley from this point was very grand and imposing. Rollo
+could look down into it as you could look into the bed of a brook in the
+country, standing upon the top of the bank on one side. The village, the
+inn, the little cottages along the roadside, the river, the bridges, and
+a thousand other objects, all of liliputian size, were to be seen below;
+while on the farther side the streaming Staubach was in full view,
+pouring over the brink of the precipice and falling in a dense mass of
+spray on the rocks at the foot of them.
+
+Rollo could understand now, too, where the fall of the Staubach came
+from; for above the brink of the precipice, where the water came over,
+there was now to be seen a vast expanse of mountain country, rising
+steep, but not precipitously, far above the summit of the precipice, and
+of course receding as it ascended, so as not to be seen from the valley
+below. From the elevation, however, to which Rollo had now attained, the
+whole of this vast region was in view. It was covered with forests,
+pasturages, chalets, and scattered hamlets; and in the valleys, long,
+silvery lines of water were to be seen glittering in the sun and
+twisting and twining down in foaming cascades to the brink of the
+precipice, where, plunging over, they formed the cataracts which had
+been seen in the valley below. The Staubach was the largest of these
+falls; and the stream which produced it could now be traced for many
+miles as it came dancing along in its shining path down among the
+ravines of the mountains.
+
+"I see now what makes the fall of the Staubach," said Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George.
+
+"I should like to be on the brink of the precipice where it falls over,"
+said Rollo, "and look down."
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "so should I. I don't think that we could get
+near enough actually to look down, but we could get near enough to see
+the water where it begins to take the plunge."
+
+After resting a suitable time at this place and greatly admiring and
+enjoying the view, our party set out again. Rollo proposed that his
+uncle should ride now a little way and let him walk; but Mr. George
+preferred that Rollo should mount again. There was still nearly another
+hour's hard climbing to do and a long and pretty difficult walk of
+several miles beyond it, and Mr. George was very desirous of saving
+Rollo's strength. It might perhaps be supposed, from the blunt manner in
+which Mr. George often threw the responsibility upon Rollo when he was
+placed in difficult emergencies and left him to act for himself, that he
+did not think or care much for his nephew's comfort or happiness. But
+this was by no means the case. Mr. George was very fond of Rollo indeed.
+If he had not been fond of him he would not have wished to have him for
+his companion on his tour. He was very careful, too, never to expose
+Rollo to any real hardship or suffering; and his apparently blunt
+manner, in throwing responsibilities upon the boy, only amused him by
+making it appear that his uncle George considered him almost a man.
+
+Mr. George, knowing that the first part of the way from Lauterbrunnen to
+the Wengern Alp was by far the most steep and difficult, had accordingly
+arranged it in his own mind that Rollo should ride until this steep part
+had been surmounted.
+
+"You may mount again now, Rollo," said he. "I will walk a little longer
+and take my turn in riding a little farther on."
+
+So Rollo mounted; and there was now another hour of steep climbing. The
+zigzags were sometimes sharp and short and at others long and winding;
+but the way was always picturesque and the views became more and more
+grand and imposing the higher the party ascended. At one time, when
+Rollo had stopped a moment to let his horse breathe, he saw at a turn of
+the path a few zigzags below him a little girl coming up, with a basket
+on her back.
+
+Rollo pointed to her and asked the guide, in French, who that girl was.
+
+Henry said he did not know.
+
+Henry, foolishly enough, supposed that Rollo meant to ask what the
+girl's name was; and so he said that he did not know. But this was not
+what Rollo meant at all. He had no particular desire in asking the
+question to learn the child's name. What he wished to know was, what,
+according to the customs of the country, would be the probable province
+and function of such a sort of girl as that, coming alone up the
+mountain in that way with a burden on her back. Henry, if he had
+understood the real intent and meaning of the question, could easily
+have answered it. The girl lived in a little hamlet of shepherds' huts
+farther up the mountain, and had been down into the village to buy
+something for her father and mother; and she was now coming home with
+her purchases in the basket on her back. All this Henry knew very well;
+but, when Rollo asked who the girl was, Henry thought he meant to ask
+who she herself was individually; and so, as he did not know her
+personally, he could not tell.
+
+Travellers often get disappointed in this way in asking questions of the
+natives of the country in which they are travelling. The people do not
+understand the nature and bearing of the question, and they themselves
+are not familiar enough with the language to explain what they do mean.
+
+The guide stood for a minute or two looking intently at the girl as she
+slowly ascended the path, especially when she passed the angles of the
+zigzag, for there she turned sometimes in such a manner as to show her
+face more plainly.
+
+"No," said he, at length; "I do not know her. I never saw her before.
+But I'll ask her who she is when she comes up."
+
+"Uncle George!" said Rollo, calling out very loudly to his uncle, who
+was at some distance above.
+
+"Ay, ay," said Mr. George, responding.
+
+Rollo attempted to look up to see where his uncle was standing; but in
+doing this he had to throw his head back so far as to bring a fear
+suddenly over him of falling from his horse. So he desisted, and
+continued his conversation without attempting to look.
+
+"Here is a girl coming up the mountain with a basket on her back. Come
+down and see her."
+
+"Come up here," said Mr. George, "and we will wait till she comes."
+
+So Rollo chirruped to his horse and started along again. In a few
+minutes he reached the place where his uncle George was standing, and
+there they all waited till the little girl came up.
+
+"Good morning," said the girl, as soon as she came near enough to be
+heard. She spoke the words in the German language and with a very
+pleasant smile upon her face.
+
+The peasants in Switzerland, when they meet strangers in ascending or
+descending the mountains, always accost them pleasantly and wish them
+good morning or good evening. In most other countries, strangers meeting
+each other on the road pass in silence. Perhaps it is the loneliness and
+solitude of the country and the sense of danger and awe that the
+stupendous mountains inspire that incline people to be more pleased when
+they meet each other in Switzerland, even if they are strangers, than in
+the more cheerful and smiling regions of France and England.
+
+The guide said something to the girl, but Rollo could not understand
+what it was, for he spoke, and the answer was returned, in German.
+
+"She says her name is Ninette," said Henry.
+
+Rollo's attention was immediately attracted to the form of the basket
+which Ninette wore and to the manner in which it was fastened to her
+back. The basket was comparatively small at the bottom, being about as
+wide as the waist of the girl; but it grew larger towards the top, where
+it opened as wide as the girl's shoulders--being shaped in this respect
+in conformity with the shape of the back on which it was to be borne.
+
+[Illustration: THE MOUNTAIN GIRL.]
+
+The side of the basket, too, which lay against the back was flat, so as
+to fit to it exactly. The outer side was rounded. It was open at the
+top.
+
+The basket was secured to its place upon the child's back and shoulders
+by means of two flat strips of wood, which were fastened at the upper
+ends of them to the back of the basket near the top, and which came
+round over the shoulders in front, and then, passing under the arms,
+were fastened at the lower ends to the basket near the bottom. The
+basket was thus supported in its place and carried by means of the
+pressure of these straps upon the shoulders.
+
+"Uncle George," said Rollo, "I should like to have such a basket as that
+and such a pair of straps to carry it by."
+
+"What would you do with it," asked Mr. George, "if you had it?"
+
+"Why, it would be very convenient," said Rollo, "in America, when I went
+a-raspberrying. You see, if I had such a basket as that, I could bring
+my berries home on my back, and so have my hands free."
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George, "that would be convenient."
+
+"Besides," said Rollo, "it would be a curiosity."
+
+"That's true," replied Mr. George; "but it would be very difficult to
+carry so bulky a thing home."
+
+After some further conversation it was concluded not to buy the basket,
+but to ask the girl if she would be willing to sell the straps, or bows,
+that it was fastened with. These straps were really quite curious. They
+were made of some very hard and smooth-grained wood, and were nicely
+carved and bent so as to fit to the girl's shoulders quite precisely.
+
+Accordingly Mr. George, speaking in French, requested Henry to ask the
+girl whether she would be willing to sell the straps. Henry immediately
+addressed the girl in the German language, and after talking with her a
+few minutes he turned again to Mr. George and Rollo and said that the
+girl would rather not sell them herself, as they belonged to her father,
+who lived about half a mile farther up the mountain. But she was sure
+her father would sell them if they would stop at his cottage as they
+went by. He would either sell them that pair, she said, or a new pair;
+for he made such things himself, and he had two or three new pairs in
+his cottage.
+
+"Very well," said Mr. George; "let us go on.
+
+"Which would you rather have," said Mr. George to Rollo, as they resumed
+their march, "this pair, or some new ones?"
+
+"I would rather have this pair," said Rollo.
+
+"They are somewhat soiled and worn," said Mr. George.
+
+"Yes," said Rollo; "but they are good and strong; and as soon as I get
+home I shall rub them all off clean with sand paper and then have them
+varnished, so as to make them look very bright and nice; and then I
+shall keep them for a curiosity. I would rather have this pair, for then
+I can tell people that I bought them actually off the shoulders of a
+little girl who was carrying a burden with them up the Alps."
+
+In due time the party reached the little hamlet where Ninette lived. The
+hamlet consisted of a scattered group of cabins and cow houses on a
+shelving green more than a thousand feet above the valley. The girl led
+the party to the door of her father's hut; and there, through the medium
+of Henry as interpreter, they purchased the two bows for a very small
+sum of money. They also bought a drink of excellent milk for the whole
+party of Ninette's mother and then resumed their journey.
+
+As they went on they obtained from time to time very grand and extended
+views of the surrounding mountains. Whether they turned their eyes above
+or below them, the prospect was equally wonderful. In the latter case
+they looked down on distant villages; some clinging to the hillsides,
+others nestling in the valleys, and others still perched, like the one
+where Ninette lived, on shelving slopes of green pasture land, which
+terminated at a short distance from the dwellings on the brink of the
+most frightful precipices. Above were towering forests and verdant
+slopes of land, dotted with chalets or broken here and there by the gray
+rocks which appeared among them. Higher still were lofty crags, with
+little sunny nooks among them--the dizzy pasturages of the chamois; and
+above these immense fields of ice and snow, which pierced the sky with
+the glittering peaks and summits in which they terminated. Mr. George
+and Rollo paused frequently, as they continued their journey, to gaze
+around them upon these stupendous scenes.
+
+At length, when the steepest part of the ascent had been accomplished,
+Mr. George said that he was tired of climbing, and proposed that Rollo
+should dismount and take his turn in walking.
+
+"If you were a lady," said Mr. George, "I would let you ride all the
+way. But you are strong and capable, and as well able to walk as I
+am--better, I suppose, in fact; so you may as well take your turn."
+
+"Yes," said Rollo; "I should like it. I am tired of riding. I would
+rather walk than not."
+
+So Henry assisted Rollo to dismount, and then adjusted the stirrups to
+Mr. George's use, and Mr. George mounted into the saddle.
+
+"How glad I am to come to the end of my walking," said Mr. George, "and
+to get upon a horse!"
+
+"How glad I am to come to the end of my riding," said Rollo, "and to get
+upon my feet!"
+
+Thus both of the travellers seemed pleased with the change. The road now
+became far more easy to be travelled than before. The steepest part of
+the ascent had been surmounted, and for the remainder of the distance
+the path followed a meandering way over undulating land, which, though
+not steep, was continually ascending. Here and there herds of cattle
+were seen grazing; and there were scattered huts, and sometimes little
+hamlets, where the peasants lived in the summer, to tend their cows and
+make butter and cheese from their milk. In the fall of the year they
+drive the cattle down again to the lower valleys; for these high
+pasturages, though green and sunny in the summer and affording an
+abundance of sweet and nutritious grass for the sheep and cows that feed
+upon them, are buried deep in snows, and are abandoned to the mercy of
+the most furious tempests and storms during all the winter portion of
+the year. Our travellers passed many scattered forests, some of which
+were seen clinging to the mountain sides, at a vast elevation above
+them. In others men were at work felling trees or cutting up the wood.
+Rollo stopped at one of these places and procured a small billet of the
+Alpine wood, as large as he could conveniently carry in his pocket,
+intending to have something made from it when he should get home to
+America. The woodman, at Henry's request, cut out this billet of wood
+for Rollo, making it of the size which Rollo indicated to him by a
+gesture with his finger.
+
+At one time the party met a company of peasant girls coming down from
+the mountain. They came into the path by which our travellers were
+ascending from a side path which seemed to lead up a secluded glen.
+These girls came dancing gayly along with bouquets of flowers in their
+hands and garlands in their hair. They looked bright and blooming, and
+seemed very contented and happy.
+
+They bowed very politely to Mr. George and to Rollo as they passed.
+
+"_Guten abend_," said they.
+
+These are the German words for "Good evening."[9]
+
+"_Guten abend_," said both Mr. George and Rollo in reply.
+
+The girls thus passed by and went on their way down the mountain.
+
+"Where have they been?" asked Mr. George.
+
+"They have been at work gathering up the small stones from the
+pasturages, I suppose," said Henry. "Companies of girls go out for that
+a great deal."
+
+After getting upon the horse, Mr. George took care to keep _behind_
+Rollo and the guide. He knew very well that if he were to go on in
+advance Rollo would exert himself more than he otherwise would do, under
+the influence of a sort of feeling that he ought to try to keep up.
+While Rollo was on the horse himself, having the guide with him too, Mr.
+George knew that there was no danger from this source, as any one who is
+on horseback or in a carriage never has the feeling of being left behind
+when a companion who is on foot by chance gets before him. Consequently,
+while they were coming up the steep part of the mountain, Mr. George
+went on as fast as he pleased, leaving Rollo and Henry to come on at
+their leisure. But now his kind consideration for Rollo induced him to
+keep carefully behind.
+
+"Now, Rollo," said he, "you and Henry may go on just as fast or just as
+slow as you please, without paying any regard to me. I shall follow
+along at my leisure."
+
+Thus Rollo, seeing that Mr. George was behind, went on very leisurely,
+and enjoyed his walk and his talk with Henry very much.
+
+"Did you ever study English, Henry?" said Rollo.
+
+"No," said Henry; "but I wish I could speak English, very much."
+
+"Why?" asked Rollo.
+
+"Because there are so many English people coming here that I have to
+guide up the mountains."
+
+"Well," said Rollo, "you can begin now. I will teach you."
+
+So he began to teach the guide to say "How do you do?" in English.
+
+This conversation between Rollo and Henry was in French. Rollo had
+studied French a great deal by the help of books when he was at home,
+and he had taken so much pains to improve by practice since he had been
+in France and Switzerland that he could now get along in a short and
+simple conversation very well.
+
+While our party had been coming up the mountain, the weather, though
+perfectly clear and serene in the morning, had become somewhat overcast.
+Misty clouds were to be seen here and there floating along the sides or
+resting on the summits of the mountains. At length, while Rollo was in
+the midst of the English lesson which he was giving to the guide, his
+attention was arrested, just as they were emerging from the border of a
+little thicket of stunted evergreens, by what seemed to be a prolonged
+clap of thunder. It came apparently out of a mass of clouds and vapor
+which Rollo saw moving majestically in the southern sky.
+
+"Thunder!" exclaimed Rollo, looking alarmed. "There's thunder!"
+
+"No," said Henry; "an avalanche."
+
+The sound rolled and reverberated in the sky for a considerable time
+like a prolonged peal of thunder. Rollo thought that Henry must be
+mistaken in supposing it an avalanche.
+
+At this moment Rollo, looking round, saw Mr. George coming up, on his
+horse, at a turn of the path a little way behind them.
+
+"Henry," said Mr. George, "there is a thunder shower coming up; we must
+hasten on."
+
+"No," said Henry; "that was an avalanche."
+
+"An avalanche?" exclaimed Mr. George. "Why, the sound came out of the
+middle of the sky."
+
+"It was an avalanche," said the guide, "from the Jungfrau. See!" he
+added, pointing up into the sky.
+
+Mr. George and Rollo both looked in the direction where Henry pointed,
+and there they saw a vast rocky precipice peering out through a break in
+the clouds high up in the sky. An immense snow bank was reposing upon
+its summit. The glittering whiteness of this snow contrasted strongly
+with the sombre gray of the clouds through which, as through an opening
+in a curtain, it was seen.
+
+Presently another break in the clouds, and then another, occurred; at
+each of which towering rocks or great perpendicular walls of glittering
+ice and snow came into view.
+
+"The Jungfrau," said the guide.
+
+Mr. George and Rollo gazed at this spectacle for some minutes in
+silence, when at length Rollo said,--
+
+"Why, uncle George! the sky is all full of rocks and ice!"
+
+"It is indeed!" said Mr. George.
+
+It was rather fortunate than otherwise that the landscape was obscured
+with clouds when Mr. George and Rollo first came into the vicinity of
+the Jungfrau, as the astonishing spectacle of rocks and precipices and
+immense accumulations of snow and ice, breaking out as it were through
+the clouds all over the sky, was in some respects more impressive than
+the full and unobstructed view of the whole mountain would have been.
+
+"I wish the clouds would clear away," said Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George. "I should like to see the whole side of the
+mountain very much."
+
+Here another long and heavy peal, like thunder, began to be heard. Mr.
+George stopped his horse to listen. Rollo and Henry stopped too. The
+sound seemed to commence high up among the clouds. The echoes and
+reverberations were reflected from the rocks and precipices all around
+it; but the peal seemed slowly and gradually to descend towards the
+horizon; and finally, after the lapse of two or three minutes, it
+entirely ceased.
+
+The travellers paused a moment after the sound ceased and continued to
+listen. When they found that all was still they began to move on again.
+
+"I wish I could have seen that avalanche," said Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George. "I hope the clouds will clear away by the time
+we get to the inn."
+
+It was just about sunset when the party reached the inn. Rollo was
+beginning to get a little tired, though the excitement of the excursion
+and the effect produced on his mind by the strange aspect of every thing
+around him inspired him with so much animation and strength that he held
+on in his walk very well indeed. It is true that a great portion of the
+mountain scenery around him was concealed from view by the clouds; but
+there was something in the appearance of the rocks, in the character of
+the vegetation, and especially in the aspect and expression of the
+patches of snow which were to be seen here and there in nooks and
+corners near the path,--the remains of the vast accumulations of the
+preceding winter which the sun had not yet dispelled,--that impressed
+Rollo continually with a sentiment of wonder and awe, and led him to
+feel that he had attained to a vast elevation, and that he was walking,
+as he really was, among the clouds.
+
+The inn, when the party first came in sight of it, appeared more like a
+log cabin in America than like a well-known and much-frequented European
+hotel. It stood on a very small plot of ground, which formed a sort of
+projection on a steep mountain side, facing the Jungfrau. In front of
+the hotel the land descended very rapidly for a considerable distance.
+The descent terminated at last on the brink of an enormous ravine which
+separated the base of the Wengern Alp from that of the Jungfrau. Behind
+the house the land rose in a broad, green slope, dotted with Alpine
+flowers and terminating in a smooth, rounded summit far above. The house
+itself seemed small, and was rudely constructed. There was a sort of
+piazza in front of it, with a bench and a table before it.
+
+"That is where the people sit, I suppose," said Mr. George, "in pleasant
+weather to see the Jungfrau."
+
+"Yes," said Rollo.
+
+"For the Jungfrau must be over there," said Mr. George, pointing among
+the clouds in the southern sky.
+
+All doubt about the position of the mountain was removed at the instant
+that Mr. George had spoken these words, by another avalanche, which just
+at that moment commenced its fall. They all stopped to listen. The sound
+was greatly prolonged, sometimes roaring continuously for a time, like a
+cataract, and then rumbling and crashing like a peal of thunder.
+
+"What a pity that the clouds are in the way," said Rollo, "so that we
+can't see! Do you think it will clear up before we go away?"
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George. "I am very sure it will; for I am determined not
+to go away till it does clear up."
+
+There were one or two buildings attached to the inn which served
+apparently as barns and sheds. The door of entrance was round in a
+corner formed by the connection of one of these buildings with the
+house. Henry led the horse up to this door, and Mr. George dismounted.
+The guide led the horse away, and Rollo and Mr. George went into the
+house. A young and very blooming Swiss girl received them in the hall
+and opened a door for them which led to the public sitting room.
+
+The sitting room was a large apartment, which extended along the whole
+front of the house. The windows, of course, looked out towards the
+Jungfrau. There was a long table in the middle of the room, and one or
+two smaller ones in the back corners. At these tables two or three
+parties were seated, eating their dinners. In one of the front corners
+was a fireplace, with a small fire, made of pine wood, burning on the
+hearth. A young lady was sitting near this fire, reading. Another was at
+a small table near it, writing in her journal. Around the walls of the
+room were a great many engravings and colored lithographs of Swiss
+scenery; among them were several views of the Jungfrau. On the whole,
+the room, though perfectly plain and even rude in all its furniture and
+appointments, had a very comfortable and attractive appearance.
+
+"What a snug and pleasant-looking place!" said Rollo, whispering to Mr.
+George as they went in.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George. "It is just exactly such a place as I wished to
+find."
+
+Mr. George and Rollo were both of them tired and hungry. They first
+called for rooms. The maid took them up stairs and gave them two small
+rooms next each other. The rooms were, in fact, _very_ small. The
+furniture in them, too was of the plainest description; but every thing
+was neat and comfortable, and the aspect of the interior of them was, on
+the whole, quite attractive.
+
+In about fifteen minutes Rollo knocked at Mr. George's door and asked if
+he was ready to go down.
+
+"Not quite," said Mr. George; "but I wish that you would go down and
+order dinner."
+
+So Rollo went down again into the public room and asked the maid if she
+could get them some dinner.
+
+"Yes," said the maid. "What would you like to have?"
+
+Rollo was considerate enough to know that there could be very little to
+eat in the house except what had been brought up in a very toilsome and
+difficult manner, from the valleys below, by the zigzag paths which he
+and his uncle had been climbing. So he said in reply,--
+
+"Whatever you please. It is not important to us."
+
+The maid then told him what they had in the house; and Rollo, selecting
+from these things, ordered what he thought would make an excellent
+dinner. The dinner, in fact, when it came to the table, proved to be a
+very excellent one indeed. It consisted of broiled chicken, some most
+excellent fried potatoes, eggs, fresh and very nice bread, and some
+honey. For drink, they had at first water; and at the end of the meal
+some French coffee, which, being diluted with boiled milk that was very
+rich and sweet, was truly delicious.
+
+"I have not had so good a dinner," said Mr. George, "since I have been
+in Europe."
+
+"No," said Rollo; "nor I."
+
+"It is owing in part, I suppose, to the appetite we have got in climbing
+up the mountain," said Mr. George.
+
+Just as the young gentlemen had finished their dinner and were about to
+rise from the table, their attention was attracted by an exclamation of
+delight which came from one of the young ladies who were sitting at the
+fireplace when Mr. George and Rollo came in.
+
+"O Emma," said she, "come here!"
+
+Mr. George and Rollo looked up, and they saw that the young lady whose
+voice they had heard was standing at the window. Emma rose from her seat
+and went to the window in answer to the call. Mr. George and Rollo
+looked out, too, at another window. They saw a spectacle which filled
+them with astonishment.
+
+"It is clearing away," said Rollo. "Let us go out in front of the house
+and look."
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "we will."
+
+So they both left their seats, and, putting on their caps, they went
+out. As soon as they reached the platform where the bench and the table
+were standing they gazed on the scene which was presented to their view
+with wonder and delight.
+
+It was, indeed, clearing away. The clouds were "lifting" from the
+mountains; and the sun, which had been for some hours obscured, was
+breaking forth in the west and illuminating the whole landscape with his
+setting beams. Opposite to where Mr. George and Rollo stood, across the
+valley, they could see the whole mighty mass of the Jungfrau coming into
+view beneath the edge of the cloudy curtain which was slowly rising.
+
+The lower portion of the mountain was an immense precipice, the foot of
+which was hidden from view in the great chasm, or ravine, which
+separated the Jungfrau from the Wengern Alp. Above this were rocks and
+great sloping fields of snow formed from avalanches which had fallen
+down from above. Still higher, there were brought to view vast fields of
+ice and snow, with masses of rock breaking out here and there among
+them, some in the form of precipices and crags, and others shooting up
+in jagged pinnacles and peaks, rising to dizzy heights, to the summits
+of which nothing but the condor or the eagle could ever attain. Still
+higher were precipices of blue and pellucid ice, and boundless fields of
+glittering snow, and immense drifts, piled one above the other in vast
+volumes, and overhanging the cliffs as if just ready to fall.
+
+In a short time the clouds rose so as to clear the summit of the
+mountain; and then the whole mighty mass was seen revealed fully to
+view, glittering in the sunbeams and filling half the sky.
+
+The other guests of the inn came out upon the platform while Rollo and
+Mr. George were there, having wrapped themselves previously in their
+coats and shawls, as the evening air was cool. Some other parties of
+travellers came, too, winding their way slowly up the same pathway where
+Mr. George and Rollo had come. Mr. George and Rollo paid very little
+attention to these new comers, their minds being wholly occupied by the
+mountain.
+
+In a very short time after the face of the Jungfrau came fully into
+view, the attention of all the company that were looking at the scene
+was arrested by the commencement of another peal of the same thundering
+sound that Mr. George and Rollo had heard with so much wonder in coming
+up the mountain. A great many exclamations immediately broke out from
+the party.
+
+"There! hark! look!" said they. "An avalanche! An avalanche!"
+
+The sound was loud and almost precisely like thunder. Every one looked
+in the direction from which it proceeded. There they soon saw, half way
+up the mountain, a stream of snow, like a cataract, creeping slowly over
+the brink of a precipice, and falling in a continued torrent upon the
+rocks below. From this place they could see it slowly creeping down the
+long slope towards another precipice, and where, when it reached the
+brink, it fell over in another cataract, producing another long peal of
+thunder, which, being repeated by the echoes of the mountains and rocks
+around, filled the whole heavens with its rolling reverberations. In
+this manner the mass of ice and snow went down slope after slope and
+over precipice after precipice, till at length it made its final plunge
+into the great chasm at the foot of the mountain and disappeared from
+view.
+
+In the course of an hour several other avalanches were heard and seen;
+and when at length it grew too dark to see them any longer, the
+thundering roar of them was heard from time to time all the night long.
+
+Rollo, however, was so tired that, though he went to bed quite early, he
+did not hear the avalanches or any thing else until Mr. George called
+him the next morning.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 9: They are pronounced as if spelled Gooten arbend.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+GOING DOWN THE MOUNTAIN.
+
+
+Mr. George and Rollo met with various adventures and incidents in going
+down the next day to Grindelwald which are quite characteristic of
+mountain travelling in Switzerland.
+
+They did not set out very early in the morning, as Mr. George wished to
+stay as long as possible to gaze on the face of the Jungfrau and watch
+the avalanches.
+
+"Rollo," said he, as they were standing together in front of the hotel
+after breakfast, "how would you like to go up with me to the top of that
+hill?"
+
+So saying, Mr. George pointed to the great rounded summit which was seen
+rising behind the hotel.
+
+"Yes," said Rollo; "I should like to go very much indeed."
+
+"Very well," said Mr. George; "we will go. But first let me get my
+pressing book to put some flowers in, in case we find any."
+
+Mr. George's pressing book was a contrivance which he had invented for
+the more convenient desiccation of such flowers as he might gather in
+his travels and wish to carry home with him and preserve, either for
+botanical specimens or as souvenirs for his friends. It was made by
+taking out all the leaves of a small book and replacing them with an
+equal number of loose leaves, made for the purpose, of blotting paper,
+and trimmed to the right size. Such small flowers as he might gather in
+the various places that he visited could be much more conveniently
+pressed and preserved between these loose leaves of blotting paper than
+between the leaves of an ordinary book.[10]
+
+So Mr. George, taking his pressing book in his hand, led the way; and
+Rollo following him, they attempted to ascend the hill behind the inn.
+They found the ascent, however, extremely steep and difficult. There
+were no rocks and no roughnesses of any kind in the way. It was merely a
+grassy slope like the steep face of a terrace; but it was so steep that,
+after Mr. George and Rollo had scrambled up two or three hundred feet,
+it made Rollo almost dizzy to look down; and he began to cling to the
+grass and to feel afraid.
+
+"Rollo," said Mr. George, "I am almost afraid to climb up here any
+higher. Do you feel afraid?"
+
+"No, sir," said Rollo, endeavoring at the same time to reassure himself.
+"No, sir; I am not much afraid."
+
+"Let us stop a few minutes to rest and look at the mountain," said Mr.
+George.
+
+Mr. George knew very well that there was no real danger; for the slope,
+though very steep, was very grassy from the top to the bottom; and even
+if Rollo had fallen and rolled down it could not have done him much
+harm.
+
+After a short pause, to allow Rollo to get a little familiar with the
+scene, Mr. George began to move on. Rollo followed. Both Rollo and Mr.
+George would occasionally look up to see how far they were from the top.
+It was very difficult, however, to look up, as in doing so it was
+necessary to lean the head so far back that they came very near losing
+their balance.
+
+After going on for about half an hour, Mr. George said that he did not
+see that they were any nearer the top of the hill than they were at the
+beginning.
+
+"Nor I either," said Rollo; "and I think we had better go back again."
+
+"Well," said Mr. George, "we will; but let us first stop here a few
+minutes to look at the Jungfrau."
+
+The view of the Jungfrau was of course more commanding here than it was
+down at the inn. So Mr. George and Rollo remained some time at their
+resting-place gazing at the mountain and watching for avalanches. At
+length they returned to the inn; and an hour or two afterwards they set
+out on their journey to Grindelwald.
+
+The reader will recollect that Grindelwald was the valley on the other
+side of the Wengern Alp from Lauterbrunnen, and that our travellers,
+having come up one way, were going down the other.[11]
+
+The distance from the inn at the Wengern Alp to Grindelwald is seven or
+eight miles. For a time the path ascends, for the inn is not at the
+summit of the pass. Until it attains the summit it leads through a
+region of hills and ravines, with swamps, morasses, precipices of rocks,
+and great patches of snow scattered here and there along the way. At one
+place Rollo met with an adventure which for a moment put him in
+considerable danger. It was at a place where the path led along on the
+side of the mountain, with a smooth grassy slope above and a steep
+descent ending in another smooth grassy slope below. At a little
+distance forward there was a great patch of snow, the edge of which came
+over the path and covered it.
+
+A heavy mist had come up just before Rollo reached this place, and he
+had accordingly spread his umbrella over his head. He was riding along,
+holding the bridle in one hand and his umbrella in the other, so that
+both his hands were confined. Mr. George was walking at some distance
+before. The guide, too, was a little in advance, for the path was too
+narrow for him to walk by the side of the horse; and, as the way here
+was smooth and pretty level, he did not consider it necessary that he
+should be in very close attendance on Rollo.
+
+Things being in this condition, the horse--when he came in sight of the
+snow, which lay covering the path at a little distance before
+him--concluded that it would be safer both for him and for his rider
+that he should not attempt to go through it, having learned by
+experience that his feet would sink sometimes to great depths in such
+cases. So he determined to turn round and go back. He accordingly
+stopped; and turning his head towards the grassy bank above the path and
+his heels towards the brink on the other side, as horses always do when
+they undertake such a manoeuvre in a narrow path, he attempted to "go
+about." Rollo was of course utterly unable to do any thing to control
+him except to pull one of the reins to bring him back into the path, and
+strike his heels into the horse's side as if he were spurring him. This,
+however, only made the matter worse. The horse backed off the brink; and
+both he and Rollo, falling head over heels, rolled down the steep slope
+together.
+
+[Illustration: THE FALL.]
+
+And not together exactly, either; for Rollo who was usually pretty
+alert and ready in emergencies of difficulty or danger, when he found
+himself rolling down the slope, though he could not stop, still
+contrived to wriggle and twist himself off to one side, so as to get
+clear of the horse and roll off himself in a different direction. They
+both, however, the animal and the boy, soon came to a stop. Rollo was up
+in an instant. The horse, too, contrived, after some scrambling, to gain
+his feet. All this time the guide remained in the path on the brink of
+the descent transfixed with astonishment and consternation.
+
+"Henry," said Rollo, looking up to the guide, "what is the French for
+_head over heels_?"
+
+A very decided but somewhat equivocal smile spread itself over Henry's
+features on hearing this question, which, however, he did not
+understand; and he immediately began to run down the bank to get the
+horse.
+
+"Because," said Rollo, still speaking in French, "that is what in
+English we call going _head over heels_."
+
+Henry led the horse round by a circuitous way back to the path. Rollo
+followed; and as soon as they reached it Rollo mounted again. Henry then
+took hold of the bridle of the horse and led him along till they got
+through the snow; after which they went on without any further
+difficulty.
+
+The path led for a time along a very wild and desolate region, which
+seemed to be bordered on the right, at a distance of two or three miles,
+by a range of stupendous precipices, surmounted by peaks covered with
+ice and snow, which presented to the view a spectacle of the most
+astonishing grandeur. At one point in the path Rollo saw at a distance
+before him a number of buildings scattered over a green slope of land.
+
+"Ah," said he to the guide, "we are coming to a village."
+
+"No," said the guide. "It is a pasturage. We are too high yet for a
+village."
+
+On asking for a further explanation, Rollo learned that the mountaineers
+were accustomed to drive their herds up the mountains in the summer to
+places too cold to be inhabited all the year round, and to live there
+with them in these little huts during the two or three months while the
+grass was green. The men would bring up their milking pails, their pans,
+their churns, their cheese presses, and their kettles for cooking, and
+thus live in a sort of encampment while the grass lasted, and make
+butter and cheese to carry down the mountain with them when they
+returned.
+
+At one time Rollo saw at the door of one of the huts a man with what
+seemed to be a long pole in his hand. It was bent at the lower end. The
+man came out of a hut, and, putting the bent end of the pole to the
+ground, he brought the other up near to his mouth, and seemed to be
+waiting for the travellers to come down to him.
+
+"What is he going to do?" asked Rollo.
+
+"He has got what we call an Alpine horn," said the guide; "and he is
+going to blow it for you, to let you hear the echoes."
+
+So, when Mr. George and Rollo reached the place, the man blew into the
+end of his pole, which proved to be hollow, and it produced a very loud
+sound, like that of a trumpet. The sounds were echoed against the face
+of a mountain which was opposite to the place in a very remarkable
+manner. Mr. George paid the man a small sum of money, and then they went
+on.
+
+Not long afterwards they came to another hut, which was situated
+opposite to a part of the mountain range where there was a great
+accumulation of ice and snow, that seemed to hang suspended, as it were,
+as if just ready to fall. A man stood at the door of this hut with a
+small iron cannon, which was mounted somewhat rudely on a block of wood,
+in his hand.
+
+"What is he going to do with that cannon?" asked Rollo.
+
+"He is going to fire it," said Henry, "to start down the avalanches from
+the mountain."
+
+Henry here pointed to the face of the mountain opposite to where they
+were standing, and showed Rollo the immense masses of ice and snow that
+seemed to hang suspended there, ready to fall.
+
+It is customary to amuse travellers in Switzerland with the story that
+the concussion produced by the discharge of a gun or a cannon will
+sometimes detach these masses, and thus hasten the fall of an avalanche;
+and though the experiment is always tried when travellers pass these
+places, I never yet heard of a case in which the effect was really
+produced. At any rate, in this instance,--though the man loaded his
+cannon heavily, and rammed the charge down well, and though the report
+was very loud and the echoes were extremely sharp and much
+prolonged,--there were no avalanches started by the concussion. Rollo
+and Mr. George watched the vast snow banks that overhung the cliffs with
+great interest for several minutes; but they all remained immovable.
+
+So Mr. George paid the man a small sum of money, and then they went on.
+
+After going on for an hour or two longer on this vast elevation, the
+path began gradually to descend into the valley of Grindelwald. The
+village of Grindelwald at length came into view, with the hundreds of
+cottages and hamlets that were scattered over the more fertile and
+cultivated region that surrounded it. The travellers could look down,
+also, upon the great glaciers of Grindelwald--two mighty streams of ice,
+half a mile wide and hundreds of feet deep, which come flowing very
+slowly down from the higher mountains, and terminate in icy precipices
+among the fields and orchards of the valley.[12] They determined to go
+and explore one of these glaciers the next day.
+
+As they drew near to the village, the people of the scattered cottages
+came out continually, as they saw them coming, with various plans to get
+money from them. At one place two pretty little peasant girls, in the
+Grindelwald costume, came out with milk for them. One of the girls held
+the pitcher and the other a mug; and they gave Mr. George and Rollo good
+drinks.[13] At another house a boy came out with filberts to sell; and
+at another the merchandise consisted of crystals and other shining
+minerals which had been collected in the mountains near.
+
+At one time Rollo saw before him three children standing in a row by the
+side of the road. They seemed to have something in their hands. When he
+reached the place, he found that they had for sale some very cunning
+little Swiss cottages carved in wood. These carvings were extremely
+small and very pretty. Each one was put in a small box for safe
+transportation. In some cases the children had nothing to sell, and they
+simply held out their hands to beg as the travellers went by; and there
+were several lame persons, and idiots, and blind persons, and other
+objects of misery that occasionally appeared imploring charity. As,
+however, these unfortunates were generally satisfied with an exceedingly
+small donation, it did not cost much to make them all look very happy.
+There is a Swiss coin, of the value of a fifth part of a cent, which was
+generally enough to give; so that, for a New York shilling, Rollo found
+he could make more than sixty donations--which was certainly very cheap
+charity.
+
+"In fact," said Rollo, "it is so cheap that I would rather give them the
+money than not."
+
+At length the party arrived safely at Grindelwald and put up at an
+excellent inn, with windows looking out upon the glaciers. The next day
+they went to see the glaciers; and on the day following they returned to
+Interlachen.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 10: Flowers dry faster and better between sheets of blotting
+paper than between those of common printing paper, such as is used for
+books; for the surface of this latter is covered with a sort of sizing
+used in the manufacture of it, and which prevents the moisture of the
+plant from entering into the paper.]
+
+[Footnote 11: See map.]
+
+[Footnote 12: It may seem strange that streams of ice, hundreds of feet
+thick and solid to the bottom, can _flow_; but such is the fact, as will
+appear more fully in the next chapter.]
+
+[Footnote 13: See frontispiece.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+GLACIERS.
+
+
+A glacier, when really understood, is one of the most astonishing and
+impressive spectacles which the whole face of Nature exhibits. Mr.
+George and Rollo explored quite a number of them in the course of their
+travels in Switzerland; and Rollo would have liked to have explored a
+great many more.
+
+[Illustration: THE CREVASSE.]
+
+A glacier is a river of ice,--really and truly a river of
+ice,--sometimes two or three miles wide, and fifteen or twenty miles
+long, with many branches coming into it. Its bed is a steep valley,
+commencing far up among the mountains in a region of everlasting ice and
+snow, and ending in some warm and pleasant valley far below, where the
+warm sun beats upon the terminus of it and melts the ice away as fast as
+it comes down. It flows very slowly, not usually more than an inch in an
+hour. The warm summer sun beams upon the upper surface of it, melting it
+slowly away, and forming vast fissures and clefts in it, down which you
+can look to the bottom, if you only have courage to go near enough to
+the slippery edge. If you do not dare to do this, you can get a large
+stone and throw it in; and then, if you stand still and listen, you hear
+it thumping and thundering against the sides of the crevasse until it
+gets too deep to be any longer heard. You cannot hear it strike the
+bottom; for it is sometimes seven or eight hundred feet through the
+thickness of the glacier to the ground below.
+
+The surface of the glacier above is not smooth and glassy like the ice
+of a freshly-frozen river or pond; but is white, like a field of snow.
+This appearance is produced in part by the snow which falls upon the
+glacier, and in part by the melting of the surface of the ice by the
+sun. From this latter cause, too, the surface of the glacier is covered,
+in a summer's day, with streams of water, which flow, like little
+brooks, in long and winding channels which they themselves have worn,
+until at length they reach some fissure, or crevasse, into which they
+fall and disappear. The waters of these brooks--many thousands in
+all--form a large stream, which flows along on the surface of the ground
+under the glacier, and comes out at last, in a wild, and roaring, and
+turbid torrent, from an immense archway in the ice at the lower end,
+where the glacier terminates among the green fields and blooming flowers
+of the lower valley.
+
+The glaciers are formed from the avalanches which fall into the upper
+valleys in cases where the valleys are so deep and narrow and so
+secluded from the sun that the snows which slide into them cannot melt.
+In such case, the immense accumulations which gather there harden and
+solidify, and become ice; and, what is very astonishing, the whole mass,
+solid as it is, moves slowly onward down the valley, following all the
+turns and indentations of its bed, until finally it comes down into the
+warm regions of the lower valleys, where the end of it is melted away by
+the sun as fast as the mass behind crowds it forward. It is certainly
+very astonishing that a substance so solid as ice can flow in this way,
+along a rocky and tortuous bed, as if it were semi-fluid; and it was a
+long time before men would believe that such a thing could be possible.
+It was, however, at length proved beyond all question that this motion
+exists; and the rate of it in different glaciers at different periods of
+the day or of the year has been accurately measured.
+
+If you go to the end of the glacier, where it comes out into the lower
+valley, and look up to the icy cliffs which form the termination of it,
+and watch there for a few minutes, you soon see masses of ice breaking
+off from the brink and falling down with a thundering sound to the rocks
+below. This is because the ice at the extremity is all the time pressed
+forward by the mass behind it; and, as it comes to the brink, it breaks
+over and falls down. This is one evidence that the glaciers move.
+
+But there is another proof that the ice of the glaciers is continually
+moving onward which is still more direct and decisive. Certain
+philosophers, who wished to ascertain positively what the truth was,
+went to a glacier, and, selecting a large rock which lay upon the
+surface of it near the middle of the ice, they made a red mark with
+paint upon the rock, and two other marks on the rocks which formed the
+shore of the glacier. They made these three marks exactly in a line with
+each other, expecting that, if the glacier moved, the rock in the centre
+of it would be carried forward, and the three marks would be no longer
+in a line.
+
+This proved to be the case. In a very short time the central rock was
+found to have moved forward very perceptibly. This was several years
+ago. This rock is still on the glacier; and the red mark on it, as well
+as those on the shores, still remains. All the travellers who visit the
+glacier look at these marks and observe how the great rock on the ice
+moves forward. It is now at a long distance below the place where it was
+when its position was first recorded.
+
+Then, besides, you can actually hear the glaciers moving when you stand
+upon them. It is sometimes very difficult to get upon them; for at the
+sides where the ice rubs against the rocks, immense chasms and fissures
+are formed, and vast blocks both of rock and ice are tumbled confusedly
+together in such a manner as to make the way almost impracticable. When,
+however, you fairly get upon the ice, if you stand still a moment and
+listen, you hear a peculiar groaning sound in the _moraines_. To
+understand this, however, I must first explain what a moraine is. On
+each side of the glacier, quite near the shore, there is usually found a
+ridge of rocks and stones extending up and down the glacier for the
+whole length of it, as if an immense wall formed of blocks of granite of
+prodigious magnitude had been built by giants to fence the glacier in,
+and had afterwards been shaken down by an earthquake, so as to leave
+only a confused and shapeless ridge of rocks and stones. These long
+lines of wall-like ruins may be traced along the borders of the glacier
+as far as the eye can reach. They lie just on the edge of the ice, and
+follow all the bends and sinuosities of the shore. It is a mystery how
+they are formed. All that is known, or rather all that can be here
+explained, is, that they are composed of the rocks which cleave off from
+the sides of the precipices and mountains that border the glacier, and
+that, when they have fallen down, the gradual movement of the ice draws
+them out into the long, ridge-like lines in which they now appear. Some
+of these moraines are of colossal magnitude, being in several places a
+hundred feet broad and fifty or sixty feet high; and, as you cannot get
+upon the glacier without crossing them, they are often greatly in the
+traveller's way. In fact, they sometimes form a barrier which is all but
+impassable.
+
+The glacier which most impressed Mr. George and Rollo with its magnitude
+and grandeur was one that is called the Sea of Ice. It is called by this
+name on account of its extent. Its lower extremity comes out into the
+valley of Chamouni, the beautiful and world-renowned valley, which lies
+near the foot of Mont Blanc. In order to reach this glacier, the young
+gentlemen took horses and guides at the inn at Chamouni, and ascended
+for about two hours by a steep, zigzag path, which led from the valley
+up the sides of the mountain at the place which formed the angle between
+the great valley of Chamouni and the side valley through which the great
+glacier came down. After ascending thus for six or eight miles, they
+came out upon a lofty promontory, from which, on one side, they could
+look down upon the wild and desolate bed of the glacier, and, upon the
+other, upon the green, and fertile, and inexpressibly beautiful vale of
+Chamouni, with the pretty little village in the centre of it. This
+place is called Montauvert. There is a small inn here, built expressly
+to accommodate travellers who wish to come up and go out upon the
+glacier.
+
+Although the traveller, when he reaches Montauvert, can look directly
+down upon the glacier, he cannot descend to it there; for, opposite to
+the inn, the valley of ice is bordered by cliffs and precipices a
+thousand feet high. It is necessary to follow along the bank two or
+three miles among stupendous rocks and under towering precipices, until
+at length a place is reached where, by dint of much scrambling and a
+great deal of help from the guide, it is possible to descend.
+
+[Illustration: THE NARROW PATH.]
+
+Rollo was several times quite afraid in making this perilous excursion.
+In some places there seemed to be no path at all; and it was necessary
+for him to make his way by clinging to the roughnesses of the rocks on
+the steep, sloping side of the mountain, with an immense abyss yawning
+below. There was one such place where it would have been impossible for
+any one not accustomed to mountain climbing to have got along without
+the assistance of guides. When they reached this place, one guide went
+over first, and then reached out his hand to assist Rollo. The other
+scrambled down upon the rocks below, and planted his pike staff in a
+crevice of the rock in order to make a support for a foot. By this
+means, first Mr. George, and then Rollo, succeeded in getting safely
+over.
+
+Both the travellers felt greatly relieved when they found themselves on
+the other side of this dangerous pass.
+
+In coming back, however, Rollo had the misfortune to lose his pike staff
+here. The staff slipped out of his hand as he was clinging to the
+rocks; and, after sliding down five or six hundred feet to the brink of
+the precipice, it shot over and fell a thousand feet to the glacier
+below, where it entered some awful chasm, or abyss, and disappeared
+forever.
+
+Mr. George and Rollo had a pretty hard time in scrambling over the
+moraine when they came to the place where they were to get upon the
+glacier. When they were fairly upon the glacier, however, they could
+walk along without any difficulty. It was like walking on wet snow in a
+warm day in spring. Little brooks were running in every direction, the
+bright waters sparkling in the sun. The crevasses attracted the
+attention of the travellers very strongly. They were immense fissures
+four or five feet wide, and extending downward perpendicularly to an
+unfathomable depth. Rollo and Mr. George amused themselves with throwing
+stones down. There were plenty of stones to be found on the glacier. In
+fact, rocks and stones of all sizes were scattered about very profusely,
+so much so as quite to excite Mr. George's astonishment.
+
+"I supposed," said he, "that the top of the glacier would be smooth and
+beautiful ice."
+
+"I did not think any thing about it," said Rollo.
+
+"I imagined it to be smooth, and glassy, and pure," said Mr. George;
+"and, instead of that, it looks like a field of old snow covered with
+scattered rocks and stones."
+
+Some of the rocks which lay upon the glacier were very large, several of
+them being as big as houses. It was remarkable, too, that the largest of
+them, instead of having settled down in some degree into the ice and
+snow, as it might have been expected from their great weight they would
+have done, were raised sometimes many feet above the general level of
+the glacier, being mounted on a sort of pedestal of ice. The reason of
+this was, that when the block was very large, so large that the beams of
+the sun shining upon it all day would not warm it through, then the ice
+beneath it would be protected by its coolness, while the surface of the
+glacier around would be gradually melted and wasted away by the beams of
+the sun or by the warm rains which might occasionally fall upon it.
+Thus, in process of time, the great bowlder block rises, as it were,
+many feet into the air, and remains there perched on the top of a little
+hillock of ice, like a mass of monumental marble on a pedestal.[14]
+
+In excursions on the glaciers the guides take a rope with them, and
+sometimes a light ladder. The rope is for various purposes. If a
+traveller were to fall into any deep pit, or crevasse, or to slip down
+some steep slope or precipice, so that he could not get up again, the
+guides might let the rope down to him, and then when he had fastened it
+around his waist they could draw him up, when, without some such means
+of rescuing him, he would be wholly lost. In the same manner, when a
+party are walking along any very steep and slippery place, where if any
+one were to fall he would slide down into some dreadful abyss, it is
+customary for them to walk in a line with the rope in their hands, each
+one taking hold of it. Thus, if any one should slip a little, he could
+recover himself by means of the rope, when, without such a support, he
+would perhaps have fallen and been dashed to pieces. Sometimes, when the
+place is very dangerous indeed, so that several guides are required to
+each traveller, they tie the rope round the traveller's waist, so that
+he can have his hands free and yet avail himself of the support of the
+rope in passing along.
+
+The ladder is used for scaling low precipices, either of rock or ice,
+which sometimes come in the way, and which could not be surmounted
+without such aid. In long and dangerous excursions, especially among the
+higher Alps, one of the guides always carries a ladder; and there are
+frequent occasions where it would not be possible to go on without using
+it.
+
+[Illustration: ASCENT OF MONT BLANC.]
+
+A hatchet, too, is of great advantage in climbing among the immense
+masses of ice which are found at great elevations, since, by means of
+such an implement, steps may be cut in the ice which will enable the
+explorer to climb up an ascent too long to be reached by the ladder and
+too steep to be ascended without artificial footholds. In ascending Mont
+Blanc the traveller sometimes comes to a precipice of ice, with a chasm
+of immense depth, and four or five feet wide, at the bottom of it. In
+such a case the foot of the ladder is planted on the outside of the
+chasm, and the top of it is made to rest against the face of the
+precipice, ten or fifteen feet perhaps from the brink. One of the
+boldest and most skilful of the guides then ascends the ladder, hatchet
+in hand, and there, suspended as he is over the yawning gulf below, he
+begins to cut steps in the face of the precipice, shaping the gaps which
+he makes in such a manner that he can cling to them with his hands as
+well as rest upon them with his feet. He thus slowly ascends the
+barrier, cutting his way as he advances. He carries the end of the rope
+up with him, tied around his waist; and then by means of it, when he has
+reached the summit, he aids the rest of the party in coming up to him.
+
+Mr. George and Rollo, however, did not venture into any such dangers as
+these. They could see all that they desired of the stupendous
+magnificence and awful desolation of these scenes without it. They spent
+the whole of the middle of the day on the glacier or on the slopes of
+the mountains around it; and then in the afternoon they came down the
+zigzag path again to Chamouni, very tired and very hungry.
+
+To be tired and hungry, however, when you come home at night to a Swiss
+inn, is a great source of enjoyment--on account of the admirable
+arrangements for rest and refreshment which you are sure to find there.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 14: Any loose rock of large size detached from its native
+ledge or mountain is called a _bowlder_.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+ROLLO A COURIER.
+
+
+Rollo came in one morning to the hotel at Meyringen, after having been
+taking a walk on the banks of a mighty torrent that flows through the
+valley, and found his uncle George studying the guide book and map, with
+an appearance of perplexity. Mr. George was seated at a table on a
+balcony, which opened from the dining room of the inn. This balcony was
+very large, and rooms opened from it in various directions. There were
+several tables here, with seats around them, where those who chose to do
+so could take their breakfast or their dinner in the open air, and enjoy
+the views of the surrounding mountains and waterfalls at the same time.
+Mr. George was seated at one of these tables, with his map and his guide
+book before him.
+
+"Well, uncle George," said Rollo, "are you planning our journey?"
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "and I am very much perplexed."
+
+"Why, what is the difficulty?" asked Rollo.
+
+"There is no possibility of getting out of this valley," said Mr.
+George, "except by going all the way back to Thun,--and that I am not
+willing to do."
+
+"Is there no _possible_ way?" asked Rollo.
+
+"No," said Mr. George, "unless we go over the Brunig Pass on foot."
+
+"Well," said Rollo, "let us do that."
+
+"We might possibly do that," continued Mr. George, still looking
+intently at his map. "We should have to go over the Brunig to Lungern on
+foot, with a horse for our baggage. Then we should have to take a car
+from Lungern down the valleys to the shore of Lake Lucerne, and there
+get a boat, for six or eight miles, on the lake to the town."
+
+"Well," said Rollo, joyfully, "I should like that."
+
+Rollo liked the idea of making the journey in the way that his uncle
+George had described, on account of the numerous changes which would be
+necessary in it, in respect to the modes of conveyance. It was for this
+very reason that his uncle did _not_ like it.
+
+"Yes, uncle George," said Rollo, again. "That will be an excellent way
+to go to Lucerne. Don't you think it will?"
+
+"No," said Mr. George. "It will be so much trouble. We shall have three
+different arrangements to make for conveyance, in one day."
+
+"No matter for that, uncle George," said Rollo. "I will do all that. Let
+me be the courier, uncle George, and I'll take you from here to Lucerne
+without your having the least trouble. I will make all the arrangements,
+so that you shall have nothing to do. You may read, if you choose, the
+whole of the way."
+
+"How will you find out what to do?" asked Mr. George.
+
+"O, I'll study the guide book carefully," replied Rollo; "and, besides,
+I'll inquire of the landlord here."
+
+"Well," said Mr. George, hesitatingly, "I have a great mind to try it."
+
+"Only you must pay me," said Rollo. "I can't be courier without being
+paid."
+
+"How much must I pay?" asked Mr. George.
+
+"Why, about a quarter of a dollar," replied Rollo.
+
+"It is worth more than that," said Mr. George. "I will give you half a
+dollar if you make all the arrangements and get me safe to Lucerne
+without my having any care or trouble. But then if you get into
+difficulty in any case, and have to appeal to me, you lose your whole
+pay. If you carry me through, I give you half a dollar. If you don't
+really carry me through, you have nothing."
+
+Rollo agreed to these conditions, and Mr. George proceeded to shut up
+the map and the guide book, and to put them in his hands.
+
+"I will sit down here now," said Rollo, "and study the map and the guide
+book until I have learned all I can from them, and then I will go and
+talk with the landlord."
+
+Mr. George did not make any reply to this remark, but taking out a small
+portfolio, containing writing materials, from his pocket, he set himself
+at work writing some letters; having, apparently, dismissed the whole
+subject of the mode of crossing the Brunig entirely from his mind.
+
+Rollo took his seat at a table on the balcony in a corner opposite to
+the place where his uncle was writing, and spread out the map before
+him. His seat commanded a very extended and magnificent view. In the
+foreground were the green fields, the gardens, and the orchards of the
+lower valley. Beyond, green pasturages were seen extending over the
+lower declivities of the mountains, with hamlets perched here and there
+upon the shelving rocks, and winding and zigzag roads ascending from one
+elevation to another, while here and there prodigious cataracts and
+cascades were to be seen, falling down hundreds of feet, over
+perpendicular precipices, or issuing from frightful chasms. Rollo
+stopped occasionally to gaze upon these scenes; and sometimes he would
+pause to put a spy glass to his eye, in order to watch the progress of
+the parties of travellers that were to be seen, from time to time,
+coming down along a winding path which descended the face of the
+mountain about two or three miles distant, across the valley. With the
+exception of these brief interruptions, Rollo continued very steadily at
+his work; and in about half an hour he shut up the map, and put it in
+its case, saying, in a tone of great apparent satisfaction,--
+
+"There! I understand it now perfectly."
+
+He was in hopes that his uncle would have asked him some questions about
+the route, in order that he might show how fully he had made himself
+acquainted with it; but Mr. George said nothing, and so Rollo went away
+to find the landlord.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+That night, just before bed time, Mr. George asked Rollo what time he
+was going to set out the next morning.
+
+"Immediately after breakfast," said Rollo.
+
+"Are we going to ride or walk?" asked Mr. George.
+
+"We are going to walk over the pass," said Rollo. "The road is too steep
+and rocky for horses. But then we are going to have a horse to carry the
+trunk."
+
+"Can you put our trunk on a horse?" asked Mr. George.
+
+"Yes," replied Rollo, "the guide says he can."
+
+"Very well," said Mr. George, "and just as soon as we get through
+breakfast I am going to walk on, and leave you to pack the trunk on the
+horse, and come along when you are ready."
+
+"Well," said Rollo, "you can do that."
+
+"Because, you see," continued Mr. George, "you will probably have
+various difficulties and delays in getting packed and ready, and I don't
+want to have any thing to do with it. I wish to have my mind entirely
+free, so as to enjoy the walk and the scenery without any care or
+responsibility whatever."
+
+Sometimes, when fathers or uncles employ boys to do any work, or to
+assume any charge, they stand by and help them all the time, so that the
+real labor and responsibility do not come on the boy after all. He gets
+paid for the work, and he _imagines_ that he does it--his father or his
+uncle allowing him to imagine so, for the sake of pleasing him. But
+there was no such child's play as this between Mr. George and Rollo.
+When Rollo proposed to undertake any duty, Mr. George always considered
+well, in the first instance, whether it was a duty that he was really
+competent to perform. If it was not, he would not allow him to undertake
+it. If it was, he left him to bear the whole burden and responsibility
+of it, entirely alone.
+
+Rollo understood this perfectly well, and he liked such a mode of
+management. He was, accordingly, not at all surprised to hear his uncle
+George propose to leave him to make all the arrangements of the journey
+alone.
+
+"You see," said Mr. George, "when I hire a courier I expect him to take
+all the care of the journey entirely off my mind, and leave me to
+myself, so that I can have a real good time."
+
+"Yes," said Rollo, "that is right."
+
+And here, perhaps, I ought to explain that what is called a courier, in
+the vocabulary of tourists in Europe, is a _travelling servant_, who,
+when he is employed by any party, takes the whole charge of their
+affairs, and makes all necessary arrangements, so that they can travel
+without any care or concern. He engages the conveyances and guides,
+selects the inns, pays the bills, takes charge of the baggage, and does
+every thing, in short, that is necessary to secure the comfort and
+safety of the party on their journey, and to protect them from every
+species of trouble and annoyance. He has himself often before travelled
+over the countries through which he is to conduct his party, so that he
+is perfectly familiar with them in every part, and he knows all the
+languages that it is necessary to speak in them. Thus when once under
+the charge of such a guide, a gentleman journeying in Europe, even if he
+has his whole family with him, need have no care or concern, but may be
+as quiet and as much at his ease, all the time, as if he were riding
+about his own native town in his private carriage.
+
+The next morning, after breakfast, Mr. George rose from the table, and
+prepared to set out on his journey. He put the belt of his knapsack over
+his shoulder, and took his alpenstock in his hand.
+
+"Good by, Rollo," said he. "I will walk on, taking the road to the
+Brunig, and you can come when you get ready. You will overtake me in the
+course of half an hour, or an hour."
+
+Rollo accompanied Mr. George to the door, and then wishing him a
+pleasant walk, bade him good by.
+
+In a few minutes the guide came around the corner of the house, from the
+inn yard, leading the horse. He stopped to water the horse at a
+fountain in the street, and then led him to the door. In the mean time
+the porter of the inn had brought down the trunk, and then the guide
+proceeded to fasten it upon the saddle of the horse, by means of two
+strong straps. The saddle was what is called a pack saddle, and was made
+expressly to receive such burdens.
+
+After having placed the trunk and secured it firmly, the guide put on
+the umbrella, and Mr. George's and Rollo's greatcoats, and also Rollo's
+knapsack. These things made quite a pile on the horse's back. The burden
+was increased, too, by several things belonging to the guide himself,
+which he put on over all the rest, such as a great-coat and a little bag
+of provisions.
+
+At length, when all was ready, Rollo bade the innkeeper good by, and set
+out on his journey. The guide went first, driving the horse before him,
+and Rollo followed, with his alpenstock in his hand.
+
+They soon passed out of the village, and then travelled along a very
+pleasant road, which skirted the foot of the mountain range,--all the
+time gradually ascending. Rollo looked out well before him, whenever he
+came to a straight part of the road, in hopes of seeing his uncle; but
+Mr. George was nowhere in view.
+
+Presently he came to a place where there was a gate, and a branch path,
+turning off from the main road, directly towards the mountain. Here
+Rollo, quite to his relief and gratification, found his uncle. Mr.
+George was sitting on a stone by the side of the road, reading.
+
+He shut his book when he saw Rollo and the guide, and put it away in his
+knapsack. At the same time he rose from his seat, saying,--
+
+"Well, Rollo, which is the way?"
+
+"I don't know," said Rollo.
+
+The guide, however, settled the question by taking hold of the horse's
+bridle, and leading him off into the side path. The two travellers
+followed him.
+
+The path led through a very romantic and beautiful scene of fields,
+gardens, and groves, among the trees of which were here and there seen
+glimpses of magnificent precipices and mountains rising very near, a
+little beyond them. After following this path a few steps, two girls
+came running out from a cottage. One of them had a board under her arm.
+The other had nothing. They both glanced at the travellers, as they
+passed, and then ran forward along the road before them.
+
+"What do you suppose those girls are going to do?" asked Rollo.
+
+"I can't conceive," replied Mr. George. "Some thing for us to pay for,
+I'll engage."
+
+"And shall you pay them?" asked Rollo.
+
+"No," said Mr. George. "_I_ shall not pay them. I shall leave all such
+business to my courier."
+
+The purpose with which the two girls had come out was soon made to
+appear; for after running along before the party of travellers for about
+a quarter of a mile, they came to a place where two shallow but rather
+broad brooks flowed across the pathway. When Rollo and Mr. George came
+up to the place they found that the girls had placed boards over these
+streams of water for bridges. One of the boards was the one which the
+girl had brought along with her, under her arm. The other girl, it
+seems, kept her board under the bushes near the place, because it was
+too heavy to carry back and forth to the house. It was their custom to
+watch for travellers coming along the path, and then to run on before
+them and lay these bridges over the brooks,--expecting, of course, to be
+paid for it. Rollo gave them each a small piece of money, and then he
+and Mr. George went on.
+
+Soon the road began to ascend the side of the mountain in long zigzags
+and windings. These windings presented new views of the valley below at
+every turn, each successive picture being more extended and grand than
+the preceding.
+
+At length, after ascending some thousands of feet, the party came to a
+resting-place, consisting of a seat in a sort of bower, which had been
+built for the accommodation of travellers, at a turn of the road where
+there was an uncommonly magnificent view. Here they stopped to rest,
+while the guide, leading the horse to a spring at the road side, in
+order that he might have a drink, sat down himself on a flat stone
+beside him.
+
+"How far is it that we have got to walk?" asked Mr. George.
+
+Rollo looked at his watch, and then said, "We have got to walk about
+three hours more."
+
+"And what shall we come to then?" asked Mr. George.
+
+"We shall come down on the other side of the mountain," said Rollo, "to
+a little village called Lungern, where there is a good road; and there I
+am going to hire a carriage, and a man to drive us to the lake. It is a
+beautiful country that we are going through, and the road leads along
+the shores of mountain lakes. The first lake is up very high among the
+mountains. The next is a great deal lower down, and we have to go down a
+long way by a zigzag road, till we get to it. Then we go along the shore
+of this second lake, through several towns, and at last we come to the
+landing on the Lake of Lucerne. There I shall hire a boat."
+
+"What kind of a boat?" asked Mr. George.
+
+"I don't know," said Rollo.
+
+"How do you know that there will be any boat there?" asked Mr. George.
+
+"Because the guide book says there will," replied Rollo. "They always
+have boats there to take people that come along this road to Lucerne."
+
+"Why do they not go all the way by land?" asked Mr. George.
+
+"Because," said Rollo, "the whole country there is so full of mountains
+that there is no place for a road."
+
+Just at this time the guide got up from his seat, and seemed ready to
+set out upon his journey; and so Mr. George and Rollo rose and went on.
+
+After ascending about an hour more, through a series of very wild and
+romantic glens, with cottages and curious-looking chalets scattered here
+and there along the borders of them, wherever the ground was smooth and
+green enough for cattle to feed, our travellers came, at length, to the
+summit of the pass, where, in a very pleasant and sheltered spot,
+surrounded with forest trees, there stood a little inn. On arriving at
+this place the guide proceeded to take off the load from the horse and
+to place it upon a sort of frame, such as is used in those countries for
+burdens which are to be carried on the back of a man.
+
+"What is he going to do?" asked Mr. George.
+
+"He is going to carry the baggage the rest of the way himself," said
+Rollo. "You see it is so steep and rocky from here down to Lungern that
+it is dreadful hard work to get a horse down and up again; especially
+_up_. So the guide leaves the horse here, and is going to carry the
+baggage down himself on his back. That rack that he is fastening the
+trunk upon goes on his back. Those straps in front of it come over his
+shoulders."
+
+"It seems to me," said Mr. George, "that that is a monstrous heavy load
+to put on a man's back, to go down a place which is so steep and rocky
+that a horse could not get along over it. But then I suppose my courier
+knows what he is about."
+
+So Mr. George, with an air and manner which seemed to say, It is none of
+my concern, walked up a flight of steps which led to a sort of elevated
+porch or platform before the door of the inn.
+
+For a moment Rollo himself was a little disconcerted, not knowing
+whether it would be safe for a man to go down a steep declivity with
+such a burden on his back; but when he reflected that this was the
+arrangement that the guide himself had proposed, and that the guide had,
+doubtless, done the same thing a hundred times before, he ceased to feel
+any uneasiness, and following Mr. George up the steps, he took a seat by
+his side, at a little table, which was placed there for the
+accommodation of travellers stopping at the inn to rest.
+
+Rollo and his uncle spent half an hour at this hotel. For refreshment
+they had some very excellent and rich Alpine milk, which they drank from
+very tall and curiously-shaped tumblers. They also amused themselves in
+looking at some specimens of carved work, such as models of Swiss
+cottages--and figures of shepherds, and milkmaids with loads of utensils
+on their backs--and groups of huntsmen, with dogs leaping up around
+them--and chamois, or goats, climbing about among the rocks and
+mountains. Rollo had bought a pretty good supply of such sculptures
+before; but there was one specimen here that struck his fancy so much
+that he could not resist the temptation of adding it to his collection,
+especially as Mr. George approved of his making the purchase. It was a
+model of what is called a chalet,[15] which is a sort of hut that the
+shepherds occupy in the upper pasturages, in the summer, where they go
+to tend the cows, and to make butter and cheese. The little chalet was
+made in such a manner that the roof would lift up like a lid, and let
+you see all there was within. There was a row of cows, with little
+calves by them, in stalls on one side of the chalet, and on the other
+side tables and benches, with pans of milk and tubs upon them, and a
+churn, and a cheese press, and other such like things. There was a bed,
+too, for the shepherd, in a sort of a garret above, just big enough to
+hold it.
+
+In about half an hour the guide seemed ready to proceed, and the whole
+party set out again on their journey. The guide went before, with the
+trunk and all the other baggage piled up on the rack behind him. He had
+a stout staff in his hand, which he used to prevent himself from
+falling, in going down the steep and rocky places. Some of these places
+were very steep and rocky indeed--so much so that going down them was a
+work of climbing rather than walking, and Rollo himself was sometimes
+almost afraid. What made these places the more frightful was, that the
+path in descending them was often exceedingly narrow, and was bordered,
+on one side, by a perpendicular wall of rock, and by an unfathomable
+abyss of rocks and roaring cataracts on the other. To behold the skill
+and dexterity with which the guide let himself down, from rock to rock,
+in this dreadful defile, loaded as he was, excited both in Mr. George
+and Rollo a continual sentiment of wonder.
+
+At length the steepest part of the descent was accomplished, and then
+the road led, for a mile, through a green and pretty valley, with lofty
+rocks and mountains on either hand, and chalets and pretty cottages at
+various distances along the roadside. At one place, in a very romantic
+and delightful spot, they came to a small chapel. It had been built
+there to commemorate some remarkable event, and to afford a
+resting-place for travellers. The door of this chapel was fastened, but
+Rollo could look in through a window and see the altar, and the
+crucifix, and the tall candles, within. He and Mr. George sat down, too,
+on the stone step of the chapel for a little while, to rest, and to
+enjoy the view. While they were there another traveller came by,
+ascending from Lungern, and he stopped to rest there too. He was lame,
+and seemed to be poor. He had a pack on his back. Mr. George talked with
+this man in French while they sat together on the steps of the chapel,
+and when he went away Mr. George gave him a little money.
+
+After leaving the chapel the travellers continued their descent, the
+valley opening before them more and more as they proceeded, until, at
+length, the village of Lungern came in sight, far below them, at the
+head of a little lake.
+
+"There!" said Rollo, as soon as the village came in sight. "That is
+Lungern. That is the place where the carriage road begins."
+
+"I am glad of that," said Mr. George. "A ride in a carriage will be very
+pleasant after all this scrambling over the mountains--that is, provided
+you get a good carriage."
+
+When, at length, the party reached the inn, the guide set down his load
+on a bench at the door of it, and, smiling, seemed quite pleased to be
+rid of the heavy burden.
+
+"Are we going to take dinner here?" said Mr. George to Rollo.
+
+"No, sir," said Rollo. "At least, I don't know. We'll see."
+
+The landlord of the inn met the travellers at the door, and conducted
+them up a flight of stone stairs, and thence into a room where several
+tables were set, and different parties of travellers were taking
+refreshments. The landlord, after showing them into this room, went down
+stairs again to attend to other travellers. Mr. George and Rollo walked
+into the room. After looking about the room a moment, however, Rollo
+said he must go down and see about a carriage.
+
+"Wait here a few minutes, uncle George," said he, "while I go and engage
+a carriage, and then I will come back."
+
+So saying, Rollo went away, and Mr. George took his seat by a window.
+
+Presently the waiter came to Mr. George, and asked him, in French, if he
+wished for any refreshment.
+
+"I don't know," said Mr. George. "I will wait till the boy comes back,
+and then we'll see."
+
+In a short time Rollo came back.
+
+"The carriage will be ready in twenty minutes," said he.
+
+"Very well," said Mr. George. "And the waiter wants to know whether we
+are going to have any thing to eat."
+
+"Yes," said Rollo, "we are going to have a luncheon."
+
+Rollo then went to the waiter, and said, in French, "Bread, butter,
+coffee, and strawberries, for two." "Very well, sir," said the waiter,
+and he immediately went away to prepare what Rollo had ordered.
+
+In due time the refreshment was ready, and Mr. George and Rollo sat down
+to the table, with great appetites. Every thing was very nice. The
+strawberries, in particular, though very small in size, as the Alpine
+strawberries always are, were very abundant in quantity, and delicious
+in flavor. There was also plenty of rich cream to eat them with. When,
+at length, the travellers had finished eating their luncheon, the
+landlord came to say that the carriage was ready. So Rollo paid the
+bill, and then he and Mr. George went down to the door. Here they found
+a very pretty chaise, with a seat in front for the driver, all ready for
+them. The trunk and all the other baggage were strapped securely on
+behind. Mr. George and Rollo got in. The top of the chaise was down, so
+that the view was unobstructed on every side.
+
+"Well," said Rollo, "do you think it _is_ a good carriage?"
+
+"A most excellent one," said Mr. George. "We shall have a delightful
+ride, I am sure."
+
+Mr. George was not disappointed in his anticipations of a delightful
+ride. The day was very pleasant, and the scenery of the country through
+which they had to pass was as romantic and beautiful as could be
+imagined. The road descended rapidly, from valley to valley, sometimes
+by sharp zigzags, and sometimes by long and graceful meanderings,
+presenting at every turn some new and charming view. There were green
+valleys, and shady dells, and foaming cascades, and dense forests, and
+glassy lakes, and towering above the whole, on either side, were vast
+mountain slopes, covered with forests, and ranges of precipitous rocks,
+their summits shooting upward, in pinnacles, to the very clouds.
+
+After journeying on in this manner for some hours the carriage arrived
+at an inn on the shores of the Lake of Lucerne. There was a landing
+there, and a number of boats, drawn up near a little pier.
+
+"Yes," exclaimed Rollo, when he saw the boats, "this is the place. The
+name of it is Alpnach. We are to go the rest of the way by water."
+
+"That will be very pleasant," said Mr. George, as he got out of the
+carriage. "I shall like a row on the lake very much. I will go directly
+down to the landing, and you can come when you get ready."
+
+So Mr. George walked on down to the pier, leaving Rollo to perform his
+duties as a courier, according to his own discretion.
+
+Rollo first paid the driver of the carriage what was due to him,
+according to the agreement that he had made with the Lungern landlord,
+and then explained to the Alpnach landlord, in as good French as he
+could command, that he wanted a boat, to take him and the gentleman who
+was travelling with him to Lucerne, and asked what the price would be.
+The landlord named the regular price, and Rollo engaged the boat. The
+landlord then sent for a boatman. In a few minutes the boatman was seen
+coming. He was followed by two rather pretty-looking peasant girls, each
+bringing an oar on her shoulder. These two girls were the boatman's
+daughters. They were going with their father in the boat, to help him
+row.
+
+The boatman took up the trunk, and the girls the other parcels of
+baggage, and so carried the whole, together with the oars, down to the
+boat. Rollo followed them, and the whole party immediately embarked. It
+was a bright and sunny day, though there were some dark and heavy clouds
+in the western sky. The water of the lake was very smooth, and it
+reflected the mountains and the skies in a very beautiful manner. Mr.
+George and Rollo took their seats in the boat, under an awning that was
+spread over a frame in the central portion of it. This awning sheltered
+them from the sun, while it did not intercept their view. The man and
+the girls took each of them an oar, standing up, however, to row, and
+_pushing_ the oar before them, instead of _pulling_ it, according to
+our fashion.[16] Thus they commenced the voyage.
+
+Every thing went on very pleasantly for an hour, only, as the boatman
+and his daughters could speak no language but German, Mr. George and
+Rollo could have no conversation with them. But they could talk with
+each other, and they had a very pleasant time. At length, however, the
+clouds which had appeared in the western sky rose higher and higher, and
+grew blacker and blacker, and, finally, low, rumbling peals of thunder
+began to be heard. The boatman talked with his daughters, pointing to
+the clouds, and then said something to Mr. George in German; but neither
+Mr. George nor Rollo could understand it. They soon found, however, that
+the boat was turned towards the shore. They were very glad of this, for
+Rollo said that he had read in the guide book that the Swiss lakes were
+subject to very violent tempests, such as it would be quite dangerous to
+encounter far from the shore. Rollo said, moreover, that the boatmen
+were very vigilant in watching for the approach of these storms, and
+that they would always at once make the best of their way to the land
+whenever they saw one coming on.
+
+In this instance the wind began to blow, and the rain to fall, before
+the boat reached the shore. Rollo and Mr. George were sheltered by the
+awning, but the boatman and the two girls got very wet. They, however,
+continued to work hard at the oars, and at length they reached the
+shore. The place where they landed was in a cove formed by a point of
+land, where there was a little inn near the water. As soon as the boat
+reached the shore Mr. George and Rollo leaped out of it, and spreading
+their umbrella they ran up to the inn.
+
+They waited here nearly an hour. They sat on a piazza in front of the
+inn, listening to the sound of the thunder and of the wind, and watching
+the drops of rain falling on the water. At length the wind subsided, the
+rain gradually ceased, and the sun came out bright and beaming as ever.
+The party then got into the boat, and the boatman pushed off from the
+shore; and in an hour more they all landed safely on the quay at
+Lucerne, very near to a magnificent hotel.
+
+Our two travellers were soon comfortably seated at a table in the dining
+room of the hotel before an excellent dinner, which Rollo had ordered.
+Mr. George told Rollo, as they took their seats at the table, that he
+had performed his duty as a courier in a very satisfactory manner, and
+had fully earned his pay.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 15: Pronounced _shallay_.]
+
+[Footnote 16: The Swiss always stand up in rowing, and _push_ the oar.
+Thus they look the way they are going.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+CONCLUSION.
+
+
+It is not possible to describe in such a volume as this more than a
+small part of the excursions which Mr. George and Rollo made or the
+adventures which they met with in the course of their tour in
+Switzerland. They remained in the country of the Alps more than a
+fortnight; and they enjoyed, as Rollo said, every moment of the time.
+There was no end to the cascades and waterfalls, the ice and snow-clad
+summits, the glaciers, the romantic zigzag paths up the mountain sides,
+the picturesque hamlets and cottages, and the groups of peasants toiling
+in the fields or tending flocks and herds in the higher pasturages.
+Rollo's heart was filled all the time that he remained among these
+scenes with never-ceasing wonder and delight. The inns pleased him, too,
+as much perhaps as any thing else; for the climbing of mountains and the
+long excursions on foot gave him a most excellent appetite; and at the
+inns they always found such nice breakfasts, dinners, and suppers every
+day that Rollo was never tired of praising them.
+
+Rollo found the cost, too, of travelling in Switzerland much less than
+he had expected. He did not expend nearly all the allowance which his
+father had granted him. When he came to settle up his accounts, after he
+had got back to Paris, he found that he had saved about seventy-five
+francs, which made nearly fifteen dollars; and this sum he accordingly
+added to his _capital_--for that was the name by which he was accustomed
+to designate the stock of funds which he had gradually accumulated and
+reserved.
+
+Just before Mr. George and Rollo left Switzerland, on their return to
+Paris, they received a letter from Mr. Holiday, who was still in Paris,
+in consequence of which they concluded to make a short tour on the Rhine
+on their way to France. The adventures which they met with on this tour
+will form the subject of another volume of this series.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Rollo in Switzerland, by Jacob Abbott
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+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of Rollo In Switzerland, by Jacob Abbott.
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+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Rollo in Switzerland, by Jacob Abbott
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Rollo in Switzerland
+
+Author: Jacob Abbott
+
+Release Date: August 23, 2007 [EBook #22377]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ROLLO IN SWITZERLAND ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by D. Alexander, Janet Blenkinship and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive)
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+</pre>
+
+
+
+
+<h1>ROLLO IN SWITZERLAND,<br /><br /></h1>
+
+<h3>BY<br /><br /></h3>
+
+<h2>JACOB ABBOTT.<br /><br /></h2>
+
+<p class="center">NEW YORK:<br />
+
+SHELDON &amp; CO., 667 BROADWAY,<br />
+and 214 &amp; 216 MERCER ST.,<br />
+Grand Central Hotel.<br />
+1873.</p>
+
+<p class="center">Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1858, by<br />JACOB ABBOTT,
+<br />In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of
+Massachusetts.</p>
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 378px;">
+<img src="images/003.jpg" width="378" height="600" alt="" title="ROLLO&#39;S TOUR IN EUROPE." />
+</div>
+<p><br /><br /></p>
+<div class="centerbox bbox">
+
+<h4>ROLLO'S TOUR IN EUROPE.</h4>
+<p class="center">
+ORDER OF THE VOLUMES.<br />
+<br />
+ROLLO ON THE ATLANTIC.<br />
+ROLLO IN PARIS.<br />
+ROLLO IN SWITZERLAND.<br />
+ROLLO IN LONDON.<br />
+ROLLO ON THE RHINE.<br />
+ROLLO IN SCOTLAND.<br />
+ROLLO IN GENEVA.<br />
+ROLLO IN HOLLAND.
+</p></div>
+
+<p><a name="frontis" id="frontis"></a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 398px;">
+<img src="images/006.jpg" width="398" height="600" alt="" title="Mont Blanc." />
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>PRINCIPAL PERSONS OF THE STORY.</h3>
+
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="PRINCIPAL PERSONS OF THE STORY.">
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Rollo</span>; twelve years of age.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Mr.</span> and <span class="smcap">Mrs. Holiday</span>; Rollo's father and mother, travelling in Europe.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Thanny</span>; Rollo's younger brother.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Jane</span>; Rollo's cousin, adopted by Mr. and Mrs. Holiday.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Mr. George</span>; a young gentleman, Rollo's uncle.</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" width="75%" cellspacing="0" summary="CONTENTS.">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><th align='left'>CHAPTER</th><th align='right'>PAGE</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>I.</td><td align="left">&mdash;<span class="smcap">Getting a Passport</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_11'>11</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>II.</td><td align="left">&mdash;<span class="smcap">Crossing the Frontier</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_31'>31</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>III.</td><td align="left">&mdash;<span class="smcap">Basle</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_49'>49</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>IV.</td><td align="left">&mdash;<span class="smcap">The Diligence</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_60'>60</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>V.</td><td align="left">&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ride to Berne</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_72'>72</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>VI.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap">The Valley of the Aar</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_85'>85</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>VII.</td><td align="left">&mdash;<span class="smcap">Interlachen</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_101'>101</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>VIII.</td><td align="left">&mdash;<span class="smcap">Lauterbrunnen</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_118'>118</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>IX.</td><td align="left">&mdash;<span class="smcap">The Wengern Alp</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_136'>136</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>X.</td><td align="left">&mdash;<span class="smcap">Going down the Mountain</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_168'>168</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>XI.</td><td align="left">&mdash;<span class="smcap">Glaciers</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_181'>181</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>XII.</td><td align="left">&mdash;<span class="smcap">Rollo a Courier</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_196'>196</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>XIII.</td><td align="left">&mdash;<span class="smcap">Conclusion</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_220'>220</a></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+
+<h2>ENGRAVINGS.</h2>
+
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" width="75%" cellspacing="0" summary="ENGRAVINGS.">
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Mont Blanc</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#frontis'><span class="smcap">Frontispiece.</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Cottage</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_10'>10</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Prefecture of Police</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_25'>25</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">In the Cab</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_40'>40</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Diligence at the Office</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_77'>77</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Diligence on the Road</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_81'>81</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Lake Shore</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_97'>97</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Vicinity of Interlachen</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_100'>100</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Mountain Girl</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_147'>147</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Fall</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_173'>173</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Crevasse</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_182'>182</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Narrow Path</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_189'>189</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Ascent of Mont Blanc</span>,</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_193'>193</a></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/009.jpg" width="600" height="389" alt="THE COTTAGE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE COTTAGE.<br /><i>See page <a href='#Page_81'>81</a></i></span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><br /><br /><a name="ROLLO_IN_SWITZERLAND" id="ROLLO_IN_SWITZERLAND"></a>ROLLO IN SWITZERLAND.<br /><br /></h2>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Chapter_I" id="Chapter_I"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter I.</span></h2>
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Getting a Passport.</span></h3>
+
+
+<p>The last day that Rollo spent in Paris, before he set out on his journey
+into Switzerland, he had an opportunity to acquire, by actual
+experience, some knowledge of the nature of the passport system.</p>
+
+<p>Before commencing the narrative of the adventures which he met with, it
+is necessary to premise that no person can travel among the different
+states and kingdoms on the continent of Europe without what is called a
+passport. The idea which prevails among all the governments of the
+continent is, that the people of each country are the subjects of the
+sovereign reigning there, and in some sense belong to him. They cannot
+leave their country without the written permission of the government,
+nor<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> can they enter any other one without showing this permission and
+having it approved and stamped by the proper officers of the country to
+which they wish to go. There are, for example, at Paris ministers of all
+the different governments of Europe, residing in different parts of the
+city; and whoever wishes to leave France, to go into any other kingdom,
+must first go with his passport to the ministers of the countries which
+he intends to visit and get them to put their stamp upon it. This stamp
+represents the permission of the government whose minister affixes it
+that the traveller may enter the territory under their jurisdiction.
+Besides this, it is necessary to get permission from the authorities of
+Paris to leave the city. Nobody can leave France without this. This
+permission, too, like the others, is given by a stamp upon the passport.
+To get this stamp, the traveller must carry or send his passport to the
+great central police office of Paris, called the prefecture of police.
+Now, as the legations of the different governments and the prefecture of
+police are situated at very considerable distances from each other about
+the city, and as it usually takes some time to transact the business at
+each office, and especially as the inexperienced traveller often makes
+mistakes and goes to the wrong<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> place, or gets at the right place at the
+wrong hour, it usually requires a whole day, and sometimes two days, to
+get his passport all right so as to allow of his setting out upon his
+journey. These explanations are necessary to enable the reader to
+understand what I now proceed to relate in respect to Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>One morning, while Rollo and Jennie were at breakfast with their father
+and mother, Rollo's uncle George came in and said that he had concluded
+to go and make a little tour in Switzerland. "I shall have three weeks,"
+said he, "if I can get away to-morrow; and that will give me time to
+take quite a little run among the mountains. I have come now to see if
+you will let Rollo go with me."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes, sir," said Rollo, very eagerly, and rising at once from his chair.
+"Yes, sir. Let me go with him. That's exactly the thing. Yes, sir."</p>
+
+<p>"Have you any objection?" said Mr. Holiday, quietly, turning towards
+Rollo's mother.</p>
+
+<p>"No," said Mrs. Holiday, speaking, however, in a very doubtful
+tone,&mdash;"no; I don't know that I have&mdash;any great objection."</p>
+
+<p>Whatever doubt and hesitation Mrs. Holiday might have had on the subject
+was dispelled when she came to look at Rollo and see how eager and
+earnest he was in his desire to go. So she gave her definitive consent.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"How long do you think you will be gone?" said Mr. Holiday.</p>
+
+<p>"Three weeks, nearly," replied Mr. George. "Say twenty days."</p>
+
+<p>"And how much do you suppose it will cost you?" asked Mr. Holiday.</p>
+
+<p>"I have made a calculation," said Mr. George; "and I think it will cost
+me, if I go alone, about twenty-five francs a day for the whole time.
+There would, however, be a considerable saving in some things if two go
+together."</p>
+
+<p>"Then I will allow you, Rollo," replied Mr. Holiday, looking towards
+Rollo, "twenty-five francs a day for this excursion. If you spend any
+more than that, you must take it out of your past savings. If you do not
+spend it all, what is left when you come back is yours."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes, sir," said Rollo. "I think that will be a great plenty."</p>
+
+<p>"Twenty-five francs a day for twenty days," continued Mr. Holiday, "is
+five hundred francs. Bring me that bag of gold, Rollo, out of my
+secretary. Here is the key."</p>
+
+<p>So Rollo brought out the gold, and Mr. Holiday took from it twenty-five
+Napoleons. These he put in Rollo's purse.</p>
+
+<p>"There," said Mr. Holiday, "that's all I can do for you. For the rest
+you must take care of yourself."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"How long will it take you to pack your trunk?" said Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>"Five minutes," said Rollo, promptly, standing up erect as he said it
+and buttoning his jacket up to his chin.</p>
+
+<p>"Then put on your cap and come with me," said Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo did so. He followed Mr. George down stairs to the door, and they
+both got into a small carriage which Mr. George had waiting there and
+drove away together towards Mr. George's hotel.</p>
+
+<p>"Now, Rollo," said Mr. George, "I have got a great deal to do to-day,
+and there are our passports to be stamped. I wonder if you could not
+attend to that."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Rollo, "if you will only tell me what is to be done."</p>
+
+<p>"I don't myself know what is to be done," said Mr. George. "That's the
+difficulty. And I have not time to find out. I have got as much as I can
+possibly do until four o'clock; and then the office of the prefecture of
+police is closed. Now, if you can take the passports and find out what
+is to be done, and <i>do</i> it, then we can go to-morrow; otherwise we must
+wait till next day."</p>
+
+<p>"Well," said Rollo, "I'll try."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"You will find the passports, then, on my table at the hotel. I am going
+to get out at the next street and take another carriage to go in another
+direction. You can keep this carriage."</p>
+
+<p>"Very well," said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"You may make inquiries of any body you please," said Mr. George,
+"except your father and mother. We must not trouble your father with any
+business of any kind till he gets entirely well; and your mother would
+not know any thing about it at all. Perhaps the master of the hotel can
+tell you. You had better <i>ask</i> him, at any rate."</p>
+
+<p>Here Mr. George pulled the string for the carriage to stop, as they had
+arrived at the corner of the street where he was to get out. The
+coachman drew up to the sidewalk and stopped. Mr. George opened the door
+and stepped out upon the curbstone, and then said, as he shut the
+door,&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"Well, good by, Rollo. I hope you will have good luck. But, whatever
+happens, keep a quiet mind, and don't allow yourself to feel perplexed
+or troubled. If you don't succeed in getting the passports ready to-day
+we can attend to them to-morrow and then go the next day, which will
+answer nearly as well."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Then, directing the coachman to drive to the hotel, Mr. George walked
+rapidly away.</p>
+
+<p>When Rollo reached the hotel he got the key of his uncle George's room,
+at the porter's lodge, and went immediately up to see if the passports
+were there. He found them, as his uncle had said, lying on the table.</p>
+
+<p>"Now," said Rollo, "the first thing I'll do is to find Carlos and see if
+he will go and help me get the passports stamped."<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p>
+
+<p>So, taking the passports in his hand, he went along the corridor till he
+came to the door leading to the apartments where Carlos lodged. There
+was a bell hanging by the side of the door. Rollo pulled this cord, and
+presently the courier came to the door.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> Rollo inquired for Carlos,
+and the courier said that he would go and get him. In the mean time the
+courier asked Rollo to step in and take a seat. So Rollo went in. The
+room that he entered was a small one, and was used as an antechamber to
+the apartment; and it was very neatly and pleas<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span>antly furnished for such
+a purpose. There were a sofa and several chairs, and maps and pictures
+on the walls, and a table with writing materials on it in the centre.
+Rollo sat down upon the sofa. In a few minutes Carlos came.</p>
+
+<p>"Look here!" said Rollo, rising when Carlos came in. "See these
+passports! We're going to get them stamped. Will you go with me? I have
+got a carriage at the door."</p>
+
+<p>Here Rollo made a sort of whirling motion with his hand, advancing it
+forward at the same time as it rolled, to indicate the motion of a
+wheel. This was to signify to Carlos that they were going in a carriage.</p>
+
+<p>All that Carlos understood was, that Rollo was going somewhere, and that
+he wished him, Carlos, to go too. He seemed very much pleased with his
+invitation, and went eagerly back into the inner apartments. He returned
+in a very few minutes with his cap in his hand, evidently all ready to
+go.</p>
+
+<p>"Now," said Rollo, as they went out of the antechamber together, "the
+first thing is to go and ask the master of the hotel what we are to do."</p>
+
+<p>There was a very pleasant little room on the lower floor, on one side of
+the archway which formed the entrance into the court of the hotel<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> from
+the street, that served the purpose of parlor, sitting room, counting
+room, and office. Thus it was used both by the master of the hotel
+himself and by his family. There was a desk at one side, where the
+master usually sat, with his books and papers before him. At the other
+side, near a window, his wife was often seated at her sewing; and there
+were frequently two or three little children playing about the floor
+with little wagons, or tops, or other toys. Rollo went to this room,
+occupying himself as he descended the stairs in trying to make up a
+French sentence that would ask his question in the shortest and simplest
+manner.</p>
+
+<p>He went in, and, going to the desk, held out his passports to the man
+who was sitting there, and said, in French,&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"Passports. To Switzerland. Where to go to get them stamped?"</p>
+
+<p>"Ah," said the master of the hotel, taking the passports in his hand.
+"Yes, yes, yes. You must get them stamped. You must go to the Swiss
+legation and to the prefecture of police."</p>
+
+<p>Here Rollo pointed to a piece of paper that was lying on the desk and
+made signs of writing.</p>
+
+<p>"Ah, yes, yes, yes," said the man. "I will write you the address."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>So the man took a piece of paper and wrote upon the top of it the words
+"prefecture of police," saying, as he wrote it, that every coachman knew
+where that was. Then, underneath, he wrote the name of the street and
+number where the Swiss legation was; and, having done this, he gave the
+paper to Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo took the memorandum, and, thanking the man for his information,
+led Carlos out to the carriage.</p>
+
+<p>"Come, Carlos," said he; "now we are ready. I know where to go; but I
+don't know at all what we are to do when we get there. But then we shall
+find some other people there, I suppose, getting their passports
+stamped; and we can do as they do."</p>
+
+<p>Rollo had learned to place great reliance on the rule which his uncle
+George had given for his guidance in travelling; namely, to do as he saw
+other people do. It is, in fact, a very excellent rule.</p>
+
+<p>Carlos got into the carriage; while Rollo, looking upon the paper in
+order to be sure that he understood the words right, said, "To the
+prefecture of police."</p>
+
+<p>The coachman said, "Yes, yes;" and Rollo got into the coach. The
+coachman, without leaving his seat, reached his arm down and fastened
+the door and then drove away.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>He drove on through various crowded streets, which seemed to lead in
+towards the heart of the city, until at last the carriage came to the
+river. Rollo and Carlos looked out and saw the bridges, and the parapet
+wall which formed the river side of the street, with the book stalls,
+and picture stalls, and cake and fruit booths which had been established
+along the side of it, and the monstrous bathing houses which lay
+floating on the water below, all gayly painted and adorned with flags
+and little parterres of flowers; and the washing houses, with their long
+rows of windows, down close to the water, all filled with women, who
+were washing clothes by alternately plunging them in the water of the
+river and then banging them with clubs. These and a great many other
+similar objects attracted their attention as they rode along.</p>
+
+<p>If the reader of this book has the opportunity to look at a map of
+Paris, he will see that the River Seine, in passing through the town,
+forms two channels, which separate from each other so as to leave quite
+a large island between them. This island is completely covered with
+streets and buildings, some of which are very ancient and venerable.
+Here is the great Cathedral Church of Notre Dame; also the vast hospital
+called Hotel Dieu, where twelve thousand sick<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> persons are received and
+taken care of every year. Here also is the prefecture of police&mdash;an
+enormous establishment, with courts, quadrangles, ranges, offices, and
+officers without number. In this establishment the records are kept and
+the business is transacted relating to all the departments of the police
+of the city; so that it is of itself quite a little town.</p>
+
+<p>The first indication which Rollo had that he had arrived at the place
+was the turning in of the coach under an arch, which opened in the
+middle of a very sombre and antique-looking edifice. The carriage, after
+passing through the arch, came into a court, where there were many other
+carriages standing. Soldiers were seen too, some coming and going and
+others standing guard. The carriage passed through this court, and then,
+going under another arch between two ponderous iron gates, it came into
+another court, much larger than the first. There were a great many
+carriages in this court, some moving in or out and others waiting.
+Rollo's carriage drove up to the farthest corner of the court; and there
+the coachman stopped and opened the door. Rollo got out. Carlos followed
+him.</p>
+
+<p>"Where do you suppose we are to go, Carlos?" said he. "Stop; I can see
+by the signs<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> over the doors. Here it is. "Passports." This must be the
+place. We will go in here."</p>
+
+<p>Rollo accordingly went in, Carlos timidly following him. After crossing
+a sort of passage way, he opened another door, which ushered him at once
+into a very large hall, the aspect of which quite bewildered him. There
+were a great many desks and tables about the hall, with clerks writing
+at them, and people coming and going with passports and permits in their
+hands. Rollo stepped forward into the room, surveying the scene with
+great curiosity and wonder, when his attention was suddenly arrested by
+the voice of a soldier, who rose suddenly from his chair, and said,&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"Your cap, young gentleman."</p>
+
+<p>Rollo immediately recollected that he had his cap on, while all the
+other people in the room were uncovered. He took his cap off at once,
+saying to the soldier at the same time, "Pardon, sir," which is the
+French mode of making an apology in such cases. The soldier then resumed
+his seat, and Rollo and Carlos walked on slowly up the hall.</p>
+
+<p>Nobody took any notice of them. In fact, every one seemed busy with his
+own concerns, except that in one part of the room there were several
+benches where a number of men and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> women were sitting as if they were
+waiting for something.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo advanced towards these seats, saying to Carlos,&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"Carlos, let us sit down here a minute or two till we can think what we
+had better do. We can sit here, I know. These benches must be for any
+body."</p>
+
+<p>As soon as Rollo had taken his seat and began to cast his eyes about the
+room, he observed that among the other desks there was one with the
+words, "for foreigners," upon it, in large, gilt letters.</p>
+
+<p>"Carlos," said he, pointing to it, "that must be the place for us. We
+are foreigners: let us go there. We will give the passports to the man
+in that little pew."</p>
+
+<p>So Rollo rose, and, followed by Carlos, he went to the place. There was
+a long desk, with two or three clerks behind it, writing. At the end of
+this desk was a small enclosure, where a man sat who looked as though he
+had some authority. People would give him their passports, and he would
+write something on them and then pass them over to the clerks. Rollo
+waited a moment and then handed his passports in. The man took them,
+looked over them and then gave them back to Rollo, saying something in
+French<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> which Rollo did not understand, and immediately passed to the
+next in order.</p>
+
+<p>"What did he say?" said Rollo, turning to Carlos.</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/024.jpg" width="600" height="548" alt="THE PREFECTURE OF POLICE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE PREFECTURE OF POLICE.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<p>"What's the reason he won't take your passports?" said Carlos.</p>
+
+<p>Although Rollo did not understand what the official said at the time of
+his speaking, still the words left a trace upon his ear, and in
+think<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span>ing upon them he recalled the words "American legation," and also
+the word "afterwards." While he was musing on the subject, quite
+perplexed, a pleasant-looking girl, who was standing there waiting for
+her turn, explained to him&mdash;speaking very slow in French, for she
+perceived that Rollo was a foreigner&mdash;as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"He says that you must go first and get your passports stamped at the
+American legation and afterwards come here."</p>
+
+<p>"Where is the American legation?" said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"I don't know," said the girl.</p>
+
+<p>"Then I'll make the coachman find it for me," said Rollo. "Come, Carlos;
+we must go back."</p>
+
+<p>So saying, he thanked the girl for her kindness, and the two boys went
+out. As he was going out Rollo made up a French sentence to say to the
+coachman that he must drive to the American legation, and that he must
+find out where it was himself. He succeeded in communicating these
+directions to the coachman, and then he and Carlos got into the carriage
+and drove away.</p>
+
+<p>The coachman had some difficulty in learning where the American legation
+was, which occasioned some delay. Besides, the distance was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span>
+considerable. It was nearly two miles to the place from the prefecture
+of police; so that it was some time before the carriage arrived there.
+In fact, Rollo had a very narrow escape in this stage of the affair; for
+he arrived at the American legation only about five minutes before the
+office was to be closed for the day. When he went to the porter's lodge
+to ask if that was the place where the office of the American legation
+was held, the woman who kept the lodge, and who was standing just
+outside the door at the time, instead of answering, went in to look at
+the clock.</p>
+
+<p>"Ah," said she, "you are just in time. I thought you were too late.
+Second story, right-hand door."</p>
+
+<p>"There's one thing good about the American legation, Carlos," said
+Rollo; "and that is, that they can talk English, I suppose."</p>
+
+<p>This was, indeed, a great advantage. Rollo found, when he went into the
+office of the legation, that the secretary not only could talk English,
+but that he was a very kindhearted and agreeable man. He talked with
+Rollo in English and with Carlos in Spanish. Both the boys were very
+much pleased with the reception they met with. The necessary stamps were
+promptly affixed to the passports; and then the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> boys, giving the
+secretary both an English and a Spanish good by, went down stairs to the
+carriage again. They directed the coachman to drive as quick as possible
+to the Swiss legation, showing him the address which Rollo's uncle had
+given them. They then got into the carriage, and the coachman drove
+away.</p>
+
+<p>"Now, Carlos," said Rollo, "we are all right; that is, if we only get to
+the Swiss legation before it is shut up."</p>
+
+<p>"He said he had been in Madrid," rejoined Carlos. "He was there three
+months."</p>
+
+<p>"I believe," added Rollo, "that uncle George said it did not close till
+three; and it is only two now."</p>
+
+<p>"And he knew the street my father lived in very well," said Carlos.</p>
+
+<p>Very soon the carriage stopped at the place which the coachman said was
+the Swiss legation. Rollo got out and went to the porter's lodge with
+the passports in his hand. The woman in charge knew at once what he
+wanted, and, without waiting to hear him finish the question which he
+began to ask, directed him "to the second story on the right."</p>
+
+<p>Rollo went up the staircase till he came to the door, and there pulled
+the cord.</p>
+
+<p>A clerk opened the door. Rollo held out the passports.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Enter there," said the clerk, in French, pointing to an inner door.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo went in and found there a very pleasant little room, with cases of
+books and papers around it, and maps and plans of Switzerland and of
+Swiss towns upon the wall. The clerk took the passports and asked the
+boys to sit down. In a few minutes the proper stamps were affixed to
+them both and the proper signatures added. The clerk then said that
+there was the sum of six francs to pay. Rollo paid the money, and then
+he and Carlos went down stairs.</p>
+
+<p>They now returned to the prefecture of police. They went in as they had
+done before, and gave the passports to the man who was seated in the
+little enclosure in the foreigner's part of the room. He took them,
+examined the new stamps which had been put upon them, and then said,
+"Very well. Take a seat a little minute."</p>
+
+<p>Rollo and Carlos sat down upon one of the benches to wait; but the
+little minute proved to be nearly half an hour. They were not tired of
+waiting, however, there was so much to amuse and interest them going on
+in the room.</p>
+
+<p>"I am going to watch and see what the foreigners do to get their
+passports," said Rollo, in an undertone, to Carlos; "for we must do the
+same."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In thus watching, Rollo observed that from time to time a name was
+called by one of the clerks behind the desk, and then some of the
+persons waiting on the seats would rise and go to the place. After
+stopping there a few minutes, he would take his passport and carry it
+into an inner room to another desk, where something was done to it. Then
+he would bring it out to another place, where it was stamped once or
+twice by a man who seemed to have nothing else to do but to stamp every
+body's passport when they came out. By watching this process in the case
+of the others, Rollo knew exactly what to do when <i>his</i> name was called;
+so that, in about half an hour from the time that he went into the
+office, he had the satisfaction of coming out and getting into his
+carriage with the passports all in order for the journey to Switzerland.</p>
+
+<p>When he got home and showed them to Mr. George, his uncle looked them
+over carefully; and, when he found that the stamp of the police was duly
+affixed to them both,&mdash;knowing, as he did, that those would not be put
+on till all the others were right,&mdash;he said,&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"Well, Rollo, you've done it, I declare. I did not think you were so
+much of a man."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Chapter_II" id="Chapter_II"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter II.</span></h2>
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Crossing the Frontier.</span></h3>
+
+
+<p>On the morning when Mr. George and Rollo were about setting out for
+Switzerland, Rollo, having got every thing ready himself half an hour
+before the time, took out his map of Europe and asked his uncle George
+what route they were going to take. Mr. George was busy at that time
+putting the last things into his trunk and making ready to lock it up
+and strap it; so he could not come to Rollo to show him the route, but
+was obliged to describe it.</p>
+
+<p>"Have you found Paris?" said he.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Rollo; "I have got my finger on it."</p>
+
+<p>"In the first place, then," said Mr. George, "there is a railway that
+goes east from Paris a hundred miles across France to Strasbourg on the
+Rhine. See if you can find Strasbourg on the Rhine."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Rollo; "here it is."</p>
+
+<p>"Then," said Mr. George, "we take another<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> railway and go south, up the
+Rhine, towards Switzerland."</p>
+
+<p>"<i>Down</i> the Rhine," said Rollo, correcting his uncle; "it is <i>down</i>."</p>
+
+<p>"No," rejoined Mr. George. "It is down on the map; that is, it is down
+the page; but it is really <i>up</i> the river. The Rhine flows to the north.
+It collects the waters of a hundred glaciers in Switzerland and carries
+them north into the North Sea."</p>
+
+<p>"Well," said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"This railway," continued Mr. George, "will take us up from Strasbourg,
+along the bank of the Rhine, to Basle, which is in Switzerland, just
+across the frontier. It is there, I suppose, that we shall have to show
+our passports; and then we shall know if you got them stamped right."</p>
+
+<p>"I did get them stamped right, I am very sure," said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Boys are generally very sure that what they do is done right," rejoined
+Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after this Mr. George and Rollo took their seats in the carriage,
+which had been for some time standing ready for them in the court yard
+of the inn, and drove to the Strasbourg station.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo was greatly interested and excited, when he arrived at the
+Strasbourg station, to see how<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> extensive and magnificent it was. The
+carriage entered, with a train of other carriages, through a great iron
+gate and drew up at the front of a very spacious and grand-looking
+building. Porters, dressed in a sort of uniform, which gave them in some
+degree the appearance of soldiers, were ready to take the two trunks and
+carry them in. The young gentlemen followed the porters, and they soon
+found themselves ushered into an immense hall, very neatly and prettily
+arranged, with great maps of the various railways painted on the walls
+between the windows on the front side, and openings on the back side
+leading to ticket offices or waiting rooms. There were seats along the
+sides of this hall, with groups of neatly-dressed travellers sitting
+upon them. Other travellers were walking about, attending to their
+baggage or making inquiries of the porter or policemen. Others still
+were standing at the openings of the ticket offices buying their
+tickets. What chiefly struck Rollo's attention, however, and impressed
+his mind, was the air of silence, order, and decorum which prevailed and
+which gave to the station an aspect so different from that of an
+American station. It is true, the hall was very large, and there were a
+great many people in it going and coming; but they all walked decorously
+and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> quietly,&mdash;they spoke in an undertone,&mdash;and the presence of so many
+railway officials in their several uniforms, and of police officers with
+their badges, and here and there a soldier on guard, gave to the whole
+scene quite a solemn and imposing appearance.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo gazed about the apartment as he came in, surveying the various
+objects and groups that presented themselves to his view, until his eye
+rested upon a little party of travellers, consisting of a lady and two
+boys, who were standing together near a low railing, waiting for the
+gentleman who was with them to come back from the ticket office with
+their tickets. What chiefly attracted Rollo's attention, however, was a
+pretty little dog, with very long ears, and black, glossy hair, which
+one of the children held by a cord. The cord was attached to the dog's
+neck by a silver collar.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo looked at this group for a few minutes&mdash;his attention being
+particularly occupied by the dog,&mdash;and then turned again towards his
+uncle, or rather towards the place where his uncle had been standing;
+but he found, to his surprise, that he was gone.</p>
+
+<p>In a moment, however, he saw his uncle coming towards him. He was
+clasping his wallet and putting it in his pocket.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Uncle George," said he, "see that beautiful little dog!"</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>"I wish I had such a dog as that to travel with me," said Rollo. "But,
+uncle George where are we to get our tickets?"</p>
+
+<p>"I've got mine," said Mr. George. "When I come to a railway station I
+always get my ticket the first thing, and look at the pretty little dogs
+afterwards."</p>
+
+<p>So saying, Mr. George took a newspaper out of his pocket and began to
+walk away, adding, as he went,&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"I'll sit down here and read my newspaper till you have got your ticket,
+and then we will go into the waiting room."</p>
+
+<p>"But, uncle George," said Rollo, "why did not you get me a ticket when
+you got yours?"</p>
+
+<p>"Because," said Mr. George, "among other reasons, I did not know which
+class carriage you wished to go in."</p>
+
+<p>"Why, uncle George!" exclaimed Rollo, surprised. "I must go in the same
+carriage that you do of course."</p>
+
+<p>"Not of course," said Mr. George. "I have got a ticket in the first
+class; and I should like to have your company in my car very much if you
+choose to pay the price for a first-class<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> ticket. But if you choose to
+take a second or a third-class ticket you will save, perhaps, half your
+money."</p>
+
+<p>So saying, Mr. George went away and left Rollo to himself.</p>
+
+<p>This was the way that Mr. George always treated Rollo when he was
+travelling with him. He left him to act for himself and to take care of
+himself in almost all the emergencies that occurred. He did this, not
+because he wished to save himself the trouble of taking care of a boy,
+but because he thought it was much better for boys early to learn to
+take care of themselves.</p>
+
+<p>The manner in which Mr. George thus threw the responsibility upon Rollo
+seemed sometimes to be a little blunt. One would suppose, in some of
+these cases, from the way in which he spoke and acted, that he did not
+care at all what became of Rollo, so coolly and with such an air of
+unconcern did he leave him to his own resources. In fact, Rollo was
+frequently at such times a little frightened, or at least perplexed, and
+often, at first, felt greatly at a loss to know what to do. But, on
+reflecting a little upon the subject, he usually soon succeeded in
+extricating himself from the difficulty; and then he was always quite
+proud of having done so, and was pleased with his uncle George for
+having given him the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> opportunity. So Mr. George, having learned by
+experience that Rollo liked, on the whole, to be treated in this way,
+always adopted it; and in carrying it out he sometimes spoke and acted
+in such a way as might, under other circumstances have appeared somewhat
+stern.</p>
+
+<p>The idea of taking a second-class car for himself in order to save a
+portion of his money, while his uncle went in one of the first-class,
+took Rollo's imagination strongly, and he was half inclined to adopt it.</p>
+
+<p>"On the whole," said he to himself, "I will not do it to-day; but I will
+some other day. And now I wonder which is the ticket office for
+Strasbourg."</p>
+
+<p>So saying, Rollo looked about the room and soon found the proper place
+to apply for his ticket. He procured a ticket without any difficulty,
+asking for it in French, with a pronunciation which, if it was not
+perfectly correct, was at least perfectly intelligible. As soon as he
+had received his ticket and had taken up his change he went to the bench
+where his uncle George was sitting and said that he was ready.</p>
+
+<p>"Well," said Mr. George, "then we'll go. I like to travel with a boy
+that is capable of taking care of himself and is willing to be treated
+like a man."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Saying these words, Mr. George rose from his seat, and, after attending
+properly to the baggage, he and Rollo passed through a door guarded by a
+man in uniform, who required them to show him their tickets before he
+would allow them to pass, and then entered a spacious apartment which
+was reserved as the waiting room for the first-class passengers. This
+room was beautifully finished and richly adorned, and the splendid sofas
+and ottomans which were ranged about the sides of it were occupied by
+well-dressed ladies and gentlemen, carrying shawls, greatcoats, and
+small travelling bags upon their arms, and exhibiting other similar
+indications of their being travellers. Mr. George and Rollo took seats
+at a vacant place upon one of the sofas. In a few minutes an officer
+came and informed the company, in a very respectful manner, that the
+train was ready; whereupon they all rose from their seats and walked out
+upon the platform where the train was waiting. Here there were several
+railway servants, all dressed in uniform, whose business it was to
+conduct the passengers to the several cars, or carriages, as they call
+them, and open the doors. These carriages were entirely different in
+their construction from the long and open cars used in America, which
+form but one com<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span>partment, that extends through the whole length of the
+car. The French cars were like three elegant carriages, joined together
+in such a manner that, though the three formed but one car, they were
+still entirely distinct from each other. The seats in these carriages
+were very spacious, and they were richly stuffed and lined, so that they
+formed soft and luxurious places of repose. The railway porter opened
+one of the doors and admitted Mr. George and Rollo, and when they had
+entered he closed it again.</p>
+
+<p>"Ah," said Rollo, seating himself upon the soft cushion on one of the
+seats, "is not this superb? I am <i>very glad</i> I did not take a
+second-class car."</p>
+
+<p>"And yet the second-class cars in France are very comfortable and very
+respectable," said Mr. George, "and they are very much cheaper."</p>
+
+<p>"How much should we have saved," asked Rollo, "in going to Strasbourg,
+if we had taken a second-class car?"</p>
+
+<p>"I don't know, precisely," said Mr. George. "We should have saved a
+great deal."</p>
+
+<p>The train now began to move; and, soon after it left the station, Mr.
+George took out his newspaper again and began to read. It was a copy of
+a very celebrated newspaper, called the London Times. Mr. George had
+another London paper<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> which was full of humorous engravings. The name of
+it was Punch. Mr. George gave the Punch to Rollo, thinking that the
+pictures and caricatures in it might perhaps amuse him; but Rollo, after
+turning it over a moment, concluded that he should prefer to amuse
+himself by looking out the window.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/039.jpg" width="600" height="521" alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">IN THE CAR.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Rollo saw a great many beautiful views and witnessed a great many
+strange and striking scenes as he was whirled onward by the train across
+the country from Paris towards Strasbourg. We<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> cannot, however, stop to
+describe what he saw, but must hasten on to the Swiss frontier. The
+travellers arrived at Strasbourg in the evening. They spent the night at
+a hotel; and the next morning they took another railway which led along
+the bank of the Rhine, up the river, towards Switzerland. The country
+was magnificent. There was the river on one side, and a range of
+mountains rising sublimely in the interior on the other. The mountains
+were at a distance of several miles from the river; and the country
+between was an extremely fertile and luxuriant plain, covered with
+villages, castles, parks, pleasure grounds, gardens, and cultivated
+fields, which presented every where most enchanting pictures of rural
+beauty. This province is called Alsatia.</p>
+
+<p>The terminus of the railway was at the city of Basle, which lies just
+within the confines of Switzerland. A short distance before reaching the
+gates of Basle, the train stopped at what seemed at first to be a
+station. It was, however, only the custom house, where the trunks and
+passports were to be examined.</p>
+
+<p>"What are we to do here," asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"<i>I</i> am going to do what I see other people do," replied Mr. George.
+"You can do whatever you please."</p>
+
+<p>At this moment a guard, dressed, like all the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> other railway servants,
+in a sort of uniform, opened the door of the car in which Mr. George and
+Rollo were sitting, and said in a very respectful manner, in French,&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"The custom house, gentlemen."</p>
+
+<p>Mr. George observed that the passengers were getting out from all the
+other cars; so he stepped out too, and Rollo followed him.</p>
+
+<p>When they reached the platform they observed that a company of porters
+were employed in carrying all the trunks and baggage from the cars to
+the custom house, and that the passengers were going into the custom
+house too, though by another door. Mr. George and Rollo went in with
+them. They found an office within, and a desk, where one or two
+secretaries sat and examined the passports of the travellers as they
+successively presented them. As fast as they were examined they were
+impressed with a new stamp, which denoted permission for the travellers
+to pass the Swiss frontier. The several travellers, as fast as their
+passports were examined, found right, and stamped, were allowed to pass
+between two soldiers through a door into another hall, where they found
+all the trunks and baggage arranged on a sort of counter, which extended
+around the centre of the room, so as to enclose a square place within.
+The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> custom-house officers who were to examine the baggage were within
+this enclosure, while the travellers who owned the baggage stood
+without. These last walked around the counter, looking at the trunks,
+boxes, bundles, and carpet bags that covered it, each selecting his own
+and opening the several parcels, in order that the officers within might
+examine them.</p>
+
+<p>The object of examining the trunks of passengers in this way is, to
+ascertain that they have not any <i>goods</i> concealed in them. As a general
+thing, persons are not allowed to take <i>goods</i> from one country to
+another without paying a tax for them. Such a tax is called technically
+a <i>duty</i>, and the avails of it go to support the government of the
+country which the goods are carried into. Travellers are allowed to take
+with them all that is necessary <i>for their own personal use, as
+travellers</i>, without paying any duty; but articles that are intended for
+sale as merchandise, or those which, though intended for the traveller's
+own use, are not strictly <i>personal</i>, are liable to pay duty. The
+principle is, that whatever the traveller requires for his own personal
+use, <i>in travelling</i>, is not liable to duty. What he does not so require
+must pay duty, no matter whether he intends to use it himself or to sell
+it.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Many travellers do not understand this properly, and often get into
+difficulty by not understanding it, as we shall see in the sequel.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. George and Rollo went into the baggage room together, showing their
+passports as they passed through between the soldiers. They then walked
+slowly along the room, looking at the baggage, as it was arranged upon
+the counter, in search of their own.</p>
+
+<p>"I see <i>my</i> trunk," said Mr. George, looking along at a little distance
+before him. "There it is."</p>
+
+<p>"And where do you suppose mine is?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"I have not the least idea," said Mr. George. "I advise you to walk all
+around the room and see if you can find it; and when you find it, get it
+examined."</p>
+
+<p>Rollo, taking this advice, walked on, leaving Mr. George in the act of
+taking out his key in order to open his trunk for the purpose of
+allowing an officer to inspect it as soon as one should be ready.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo soon found his trunk. It was in a part of the room remote from his
+uncle's. Near his trunk was a very large one, which the officers were
+searching very thoroughly. They had found something in it which was not
+personal<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> baggage and which the lady had not declared. Rollo could not
+see what the article was which the officers had found. It was something
+contained in a pretty box. The lady had put it into the bottom of her
+trunk. The officers had taken it out, and were now examining it. The
+lady stood by, seemingly in great distress.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo's attention, which had begun to be attracted by this scene, was,
+however, almost immediately called off from it by the voice of another
+officer, who pointed to his trunk and asked him if it was his.</p>
+
+<p>"Is that yours?" said the officer, in French.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," replied Rollo, in the same language, "it is mine;" and so saying,
+he proceeded to take out his key and unlock the trunk.</p>
+
+<p>"Have you any thing to declare?" asked the man.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo looked perplexed. He did not know what the officer meant by asking
+him if he had any thing to declare. After a moment's hesitation he
+said,&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"I don't know; but I will go ask my uncle."</p>
+
+<p>So Rollo went to the place where he had left his uncle George, and
+accosted him by saying,&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"They want to know if I have any thing to <i>declare</i>. What do they mean?"</p>
+
+<p>"They mean whether you have any goods in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> your trunk that are liable to
+pay duty. Tell them no."</p>
+
+<p>So Rollo went back and told the officer that he had not any thing to
+declare. He then opened his trunk; but the officer, instead of examining
+it, shut down the lid, saying, "Very well;" and by means of a piece of
+chalk he marked it upon the top with some sort of character. A porter
+then took the trunk and carried it back to the train.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo perceived that the difficulty about the lady's baggage had been
+settled in some way or other, but he feared it was settled in a manner
+not very satisfactory to the lady herself; for, as the porters took up
+her trunk to carry it back, she looked quite displeased and out of
+humor.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo went back to the place where he had left his uncle George, and
+then they went together out to the platform. Here Rollo found the lady
+who had had difficulty about her baggage explaining the case to some
+friends that she found there. She seemed to be very indignant and angry,
+and was telling her story with great volubility. Rollo listened for a
+moment; but she spoke so rapidly that he could not understand what she
+said, as she spoke in French.</p>
+
+<p>"What does she say?" he asked, speaking to Mr. George.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"She says," replied Mr. George, "that they were going to seize something
+that she had in her trunk because she did not declare it."</p>
+
+<p>"What does that mean?" said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Why, the law is," said Mr. George, "that when people have any thing in
+their trunks that is dutiable, if they <i>declare</i> it, that is,
+acknowledge that they have it and show it to the officers, then they
+have only to pay the duty, and they may carry the article in. But if
+they do not declare it, but hide it away somewhere in their trunks, and
+the officers find it there, then the thing is forfeited altogether. The
+officers seize it and sell it for the benefit of the government."</p>
+
+<p>"O, uncle George!" exclaimed Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George, "that is what they do; and it is right. If
+people wish to bring any thing that is subject to duty into any country
+they ought to be willing to pay the duty, and not, by refusing to pay,
+make other people pay more than their share."</p>
+
+<p>"If one man does not pay his duty," rejoined Rollo, "do the others have
+to pay more?"</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George, "in the end they do. At least I suppose so.
+Whatever the amount of money may be that is required for the expenses of
+government, if one man does not pay his share, the rest must make it up,
+I suppose."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"They did not look into my trunk at all," said Rollo. "Why didn't they?
+I might have had ever so many things hid away there."</p>
+
+<p>"I suppose they knew from the circumstances of the case," said Mr.
+George, "that you would not be likely to have any smuggled goods in your
+trunk. They saw at once that you were a foreign boy, and knew that you
+must be coming to Switzerland only to make a tour, and that you could
+have no reason for wishing to smuggle any thing into the country. They
+scarcely looked into <i>my</i> trunk at all."</p>
+
+<p>While Mr. George and Rollo had been holding this conversation they had
+returned to their places in the car, and very soon the train was in
+motion to take them into the town.</p>
+
+<p>Thus our travellers passed the Swiss frontier. In half an hour
+afterwards they were comfortably established at a large and splendid
+hotel called the Three Kings. The hotel has this name in three
+languages, English, French, and German, as people speaking those several
+languages come, in almost equal numbers, to Switzerland. Thus when you
+leave the station you may, in your directions to the coachman, say you
+wish to go to the Three Kings, or to the Trois Rois, or to the Drei
+K&ouml;nige, whichever you please. They all mean the same hotel&mdash;the best
+hotel in Basle.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Chapter_III" id="Chapter_III"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter III.</span></h2>
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Basle.</span></h3>
+
+
+<p>The city of Basle stands upon the banks of the Rhine, on the northern
+frontier of Switzerland. The waters of the Rhine are gathered from
+hundreds of roaring and turbid torrents which come out, some from vast
+icy caverns in the glaciers, some from the melting debris of fallen
+avalanches, some from gushing fountains which break out suddenly through
+crevices in the rocks or yawning chasms, and some from dark and
+frightful ravines on the mountain sides, down which they foam and tumble
+perpetually, fed by vast fields of melting snow above. The waters of all
+these torrents, being gathered at last into one broad, and deep, and
+rapid stream, flow to a vast reservoir called the Lake of Constance,
+where they repose for a time, or, rather, move slowly and insensibly
+forward, enjoying a comparative quiescence which has all the
+characteristics and effects of repose. The waters enter this reservoir
+wild and turbid. They leave it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> calm and clear; and then, flowing
+rapidly for one hundred miles along the northern frontier of
+Switzerland, and receiving successively the waters of many other streams
+that have come from hundreds of other torrents and have been purified in
+the repose of other lakes extending over the whole northern slope of
+Switzerland, they form a broad and rapid river, which flows swiftly
+through Basle, and then, turning suddenly to the northward, bids Basle
+and Switzerland farewell together.</p>
+
+<p>"And then where does it go?" said Rollo to Mr. George when his uncle had
+explained this thus far to him.</p>
+
+<p>"Straight across the continent to the North Sea," said Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>Thus the whole northern slope of Switzerland is drained by a system of
+waters which, when united at Basle, form the River Rhine.</p>
+
+<p>The morning after Mr. George and Rollo arrived at Basle they were
+looking out upon the River Rhine from the windows of the hotel.</p>
+
+<p>"What a swift river!" said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>"And how blue the water is!" continued Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George. "The water of the streams which come from the
+Swiss mountains<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> is turbid at first and very gray from the grinding up
+of the rocks in the <i>moraines</i> and glaciers and by the avalanches."</p>
+
+<p>"What is a moraine?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"I will explain it to you one of these days," said Mr. George, "when you
+come to see one."</p>
+
+<p>"And a glacier," said Rollo; "what is that?"</p>
+
+<p>"I will explain that to you, too, some other time," said Mr. George,
+"but not now; for the breakfast will come in in a minute or two."</p>
+
+<p>"Well," said Rollo, "I can hear while I am eating my breakfast."</p>
+
+<p>"That may be," replied Mr. George; "but I cannot lecture very well while
+I am eating <i>my</i> breakfast."</p>
+
+<p>Rollo laughed. "I did not think of that," said he.</p>
+
+<p>"What queer boats!" continued Rollo, looking out again upon the river.
+"And there is a long bridge leading over to the other side. May I go out
+and walk over on that bridge after breakfast?"</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George, "you may go any where you please."</p>
+
+<p>"But suppose I should get lost," said Rollo. "What should I do then?"</p>
+
+<p>"I don't know," said Mr. George, "unless you should ask somebody to tell
+you the way to the Three Kings."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"But perhaps they would not understand English," said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Then you must say <i>Trois Rois</i>,<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a>
+which is the French name for the hotel," rejoined Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>"But perhaps they would not understand French," said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"No," replied Mr. George; "I think it probable they would not; for
+people talk German generally in this part of Switzerland. In that case
+you must ask the way to <i>Drei K&ouml;nige</i>."</p>
+
+<p>Here the waiter came in with the breakfast. It consisted of a pot of
+coffee, another of boiled milk, an omelette, some excellent cakes, and
+some honey. There was a long table extending up and down the room, which
+was a very large and handsome apartment, and there were besides several
+round tables in corners and in pleasant places near the windows. The
+breakfast for Mr. George and Rollo was put upon one of the round tables;
+and, in sitting down to it, Rollo took pains to place himself in such a
+manner that he could look out the window and see the water while he was
+eating.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"What a dreadful river that would be to fall into!" said Rollo. "It runs
+so swift and looks so angry!"</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George. "It runs swift because the descent is very
+great. Switzerland is very high; and the water, in running from it,
+flows very swiftly."</p>
+
+<p>"I did not know that Switzerland was all high," said Rollo. "I knew that
+the mountains were high; but the valleys must be low."</p>
+
+<p>"No," said Mr. George; "it is all high. The bottoms of the valleys are
+higher than the tops of the mountains in many other countries. In going
+into Switzerland, we go up hill nearly all the way; and so, even when we
+are at the bottom of the deepest valleys in Switzerland, we are up very
+high. There is Chamouni, for example, which is a deep valley near the
+foot of Mont Blanc. The bottom of that valley is six or seven times as
+high as the top of the Palisades on the North River."</p>
+
+<p>"O, uncle George!" exclaimed Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George; "and it is so with all the Swiss valleys; and,
+accordingly, the water that comes down through them has a great descent
+to make in getting to the sea. Thus there are a great many falls, and
+cascades, and rapids; and, even in those places where the rivers run<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span>
+smoothly, the current is very swift and very strong."</p>
+
+<p>While Mr. George and Rollo were eating their breakfast the attention of
+Rollo was occupied partly by the prospect of the river as he saw it
+through the open window, and partly by the various groups of travellers
+who were constantly coming into the room, or going out, or taking their
+breakfasts in little parties at the tables. Some who had finished their
+breakfasts were looking at maps and guide books which they had spread
+out before them on the tables. The room was very large, and very
+beautiful; and, as it was lighted on the back side by a row of wide and
+lofty windows which looked out upon the river, it wore a very bright and
+cheerful expression. At one end of it were glass doors, which led into
+another room very similar to this, as it likewise had windows looking
+out upon the river. This room was used as a sort of sitting room and
+reading room. There was a table in the centre, with newspapers, some
+French, some English, and some German, lying upon it. Rollo determined
+to go into this room as soon as he had finished his breakfast to see who
+was there and what they were doing.</p>
+
+<p>"Rollo," said Mr. George, after a short pause, "do you wish to travel in
+Switzerland intelligently or blindly?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"What do you mean by that?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Why, do you wish to understand something of the general features of the
+country first, so as to know always, as we go travelling on, where you
+are, and where you are going, and what you are to expect to see, or
+would you rather not trouble yourself at all about this, but take things
+as they come along, and enjoy them as you see them, without thinking or
+caring what is to come next."</p>
+
+<p>"Which is the best way?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Either is a very good way," replied Mr. George. "There is a pleasure in
+understanding and anticipating, and there is also a pleasure in
+wondering what is to come next and meeting with surprises. You can take
+your choice."</p>
+
+<p>Rollo reflected a moment, and then he said that he thought he should
+like best to understand.</p>
+
+<p>"Very well," said Mr. George. "Then I will explain to you the general
+features of Switzerland. Switzerland&mdash;or at least that portion of it
+which is the chief scene of the rambles of tourists and
+travellers&mdash;consists substantially of a long and deep valley, extending
+from east to west through the centre, and bordered by a range of
+mountains on each side. The range of mountains on the northern side of
+this valley is,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> of course, towards Germany; the one on the southern
+side is towards Italy. On the north side of the northern range of
+mountains is a broad slope of land, extending a hundred miles towards
+the German frontier. On the southern side of the southern range of
+mountains is a steep and narrow slope, extending to the Italian
+frontier.</p>
+
+<p>"Thus we may say," continued Mr. George, "that Switzerland consists
+substantially of a broad northern slope of land and a narrow southern
+slope, with a deep valley between them. Do you understand this?"</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Rollo. "If I had some damp sand, and a little wooden shovel,
+I think I could make it."</p>
+
+<p>"People do make models of the Swiss valleys and mountains," said Mr.
+George. "In fact, they have maps of Switzerland, embossed with all the
+mountains in relief; and I wish very much that we had one here to look
+at."</p>
+
+<p>"There is one here," said Rollo, his face brightening up very luminously
+as he spoke. "I saw it hanging up in the gallery, and I did not know
+what it was. It must be that. I'll go and show it to you after
+breakfast."</p>
+
+<p>"I am very glad," said Mr. George. "I wished to see one very much. We
+will go and see it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> immediately after breakfast. But now let me tell you
+a little more about the country. You must not imagine that the northern
+slope, as I called it, is one smooth and uniform surface of descending
+land. There are mountains, and valleys, and lakes, and precipices, and
+waterfalls, and every other variety of mountain scenery scattered all
+over it, making it a most picturesque and romantic region. It is,
+however, on the whole, a slope. It begins with comparatively smooth and
+level land on the north and it terminates in a range of lofty mountain
+crests on the south; and you have to go over this crest somewhere, by
+some of the steep and difficult passes that cross it, to get into the
+central valley. We are on the margin of this slope now. When we leave
+here and strike into the heart of Switzerland we shall be gradually
+ascending it. I am going first to a place called Interlachen, which is
+in a deep valley far up this slope, just under the ridge of mountains.
+Interlachen is surrounded, in fact, by mountains, and a great many
+pleasant excursions can be made from it. We shall stop there a few days
+and make excursions, and then cross over by some of the mountain passes
+into the valley."</p>
+
+<p>"Well," said Rollo, in a tone of great satisfaction. "I shall like that;
+I should like to go<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> over a mountain pass. Shall we go in a carriage, or
+on horseback."</p>
+
+<p>"That depends upon which of the passes we take," said Mr. George. "Some
+of them are carriage roads, some are bridle paths; and you ride over on
+mules or horses. Others are too steep and dangerous to ride over in any
+way. You have to go on foot, climbing up zigzag paths cut out of the
+rock, and over great patches of snow that horses and mules would sink
+into."</p>
+
+<p>"Let's go in one of those," said Rollo, straightening himself up.</p>
+
+<p>"Sometimes the path becomes narrower and narrower," continued Mr.
+George, "until it is finally lost among the rocks, and you have to
+clamber around the point of some rocky cliff a thousand feet in the air,
+with scarcely any thing but the jagged roughness of the rocks to cling
+to."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes, sir," said Rollo, eagerly. "Yes, sir. Let's go there. That's just
+the kind of road I want to go in."</p>
+
+<p>"Well, we'll see," said Mr. George. "The first thing is to go to
+Interlachen. That is in the heart of the mountains, and very near the
+passes which lead over into the valley. When we get there we will study
+the guide book and the maps and determine which way to go."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"And after you get into the valley," said Rollo, "shall you go across
+it, and go over the mountains on the other side, into Italy?"</p>
+
+<p>"I don't know," said Mr. George. "Perhaps we shall not have time. I may
+think it is best to spend the time in rambling about among the mountains
+and glaciers near the head of the valley, where I believe is to be found
+the most stupendous scenery in all Switzerland."</p>
+
+<p>The breakfast was now nearly finished, though the process of eating it
+had been a good deal impeded by the conversation, so large a share of it
+having fallen to Mr. George. Mr. George, however, explained to Rollo
+that their first day's journey from Basle would be south, towards Berne,
+the capital of the country&mdash;a city which was situated near the centre of
+the northern slope which Mr. George had described.</p>
+
+<p>"Do we go by a railway?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"No," said Mr. George; "by a diligence."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Chapter_IV" id="Chapter_IV"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter IV.</span></h2>
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">The Diligence.</span></h3>
+
+
+<p>A diligence is a sort of stage coach used in France and Switzerland, and
+generally on the continent of Europe. It is constructed very
+differently, however, from an American stage coach, being divided into
+four distinct compartments. Rollo had seen a diligence in Paris, and so
+he could understand very easily the conversation which ensued between
+himself and his uncle in respect to the seats which they should take in
+the one in which they were to travel to Berne. In order, however, to
+enable the reader of this book to understand it, I must here give a
+brief description of this kind of vehicle. The engraving on page 77 is a
+very faithful representation of one of them. There are three windows in
+the side of it. Each of these windows leads to a different compartment
+of the coach. In addition to these three compartments, there is, over
+the foremost of these, on the top of the coach, another, making four in
+all. This compartment on the top is called the <i>banquette</i>.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>These coaches are so large that they have a conductor. The man who
+drives sometimes sits on a small seat placed in front of the banquette,
+and sometimes he rides on one of the horses. In either case, however, he
+has nothing to do but to attend to his team. The passengers and the
+baggage are all under the conductor's care.</p>
+
+<p>The compartment immediately beneath the banquette, which is the front
+compartment of the body of the coach, is called the <i>coup&eacute;</i>. The coup&eacute;
+extends across the whole coach, from one side to the other; but it is
+quite narrow. It has only one seat,&mdash;a seat facing the horses,&mdash;with
+places upon it for three passengers. There are windows in front, by
+which the passengers can look out under the coachman's seat when there
+is a coachman's seat there. The doors leading to the coup&eacute; are in the
+sides.</p>
+
+<p>The compartment immediately behind the coup&eacute; is called the <i>interior</i>.
+It is entirely separate from the coup&eacute;. There are two seats, which
+extend from one side of the coach to the other, and have places upon
+them for three passengers each, making six in all. The three passengers
+who sit on one of these seats must, of course, ride with their backs to
+the horses. The doors leading to the interior are in the sides. In fact,
+the interior has within exactly the appearance<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> of a common hackney
+coach, with seats for six passengers.</p>
+
+<p>Behind the interior is the fourth compartment, which is called the
+<i>rotonde</i>. It is like a short omnibus. The door is behind, and the seats
+are on the sides. This omnibus compartment is so short that there is
+only room for three people on each side, and the seats are not very
+comfortable.</p>
+
+<p>Very genteel people, who wish to be secluded and to ride somewhat in
+style, take the coup&eacute;. The seats in the coup&eacute; are very comfortable, and
+there is a very good opportunity to see the country through the front
+and side windows. The price is much higher, however, for seats in the
+coup&eacute; than in any other part of the diligence.</p>
+
+<p>The mass of common travellers generally take places in the interior. The
+seats there are comfortable, only there is not a very good opportunity
+to see the country; for there are only two windows, one on each side, in
+the top of the door.</p>
+
+<p>People who do not care much about the style in which they travel, but
+only desire to have the best possible opportunity to view the country
+and to have an amusing time, generally go up to the banquette. The
+places here are cheaper than they are even in the interior, and very
+much cheaper than they are in the coup&eacute;.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The cheapest place of all, however, is in the rotonde, which is the
+omnibus-like compartment, in the end of the diligence, behind. This
+compartment is generally filled with laborers, soldiers, and servants;
+and sometimes nurses and children are put here.</p>
+
+<p>The baggage is always stored upon the top of the diligence, behind the
+banquette, and directly over the interior and the rotonde. It is packed
+away very carefully there, and is protected by a strong leather
+covering, which is well strapped down over it. All these things you see
+plainly represented in the engraving.</p>
+
+<p>We now return to the conversation which was held between Rollo and Mr.
+George at the close of their breakfast.</p>
+
+<p>"I have got some letters to write after breakfast," said Mr. George,
+"and I should like to go directly to my room and write them. So I wish
+you would find out when the diligence goes next to Berne, and take
+places in it for you and me."</p>
+
+<p>"Well," said Rollo, "I will; only how shall I do it? Where shall I go?"</p>
+
+<p>"I don't know any thing about it," replied Mr. George. "The guide book
+says that there is a diligence from Basle to Berne; and I suppose there
+is an office for it somewhere about town. Do you think you can find
+it?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"I'll try," said Rollo. "But how do we take seats in it? Is there a book
+for us to write our names in, with the place where they are to call for
+us?"</p>
+
+<p>"I do not know any thing about it," said Mr. George. "All I know is,
+that I want to go to Berne with you some way or other in the diligence,
+and I wish to have you plan and arrange it all."</p>
+
+<p>"Well," said Rollo, "I will, if I can find out. Only tell me what places
+I shall take."</p>
+
+<p>"I don't care particularly about that," replied Mr. George; "only let it
+be where we can see best. It must be either in the coup&eacute; or in the
+banquette. We can't see at all, scarcely, in the other compartments."</p>
+
+<p>"Well," said Rollo, "I should like to be where I can see. But would you
+rather it would be in the coup&eacute;, or in the banquette?"</p>
+
+<p>"That is just as you please," replied Mr. George. "There are some
+advantages in being in the banquette."</p>
+
+<p>"What are they?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"There are four advantages," replied Mr. George. "First, it is up very
+high, and is all open, so that you have a most excellent chance to see."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Rollo. "I shall like that."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"The second advantage," said Mr. George, "is, that it costs less. The
+places in the banquette are quite cheap."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Rollo. "I like that. So we can save some of our money."</p>
+
+<p>"The third advantage," continued Mr. George, "is, that we have a great
+deal better opportunity to hear talking there. There are usually five
+persons in that part of the coach&mdash;the coachman, the conductor, and
+three passengers. That is, there will be one passenger besides you and
+me. He will probably be talking with the conductor part of the time, and
+the conductor will be talking with the coachman, and we shall be amused
+by hearing what they say."</p>
+
+<p>"But there are <i>six</i> persons in the interior," said Rollo, "to talk."</p>
+
+<p>"True," replied Mr. George; "but, then, they are usually not so sociable
+there as they are up on the banquette. Besides, the noise of the wheels
+on the hard gravel roads is so loud there that we cannot hear very well.
+Then, moreover, when we stop to change horses, the hostlers and
+postilions come out, and our coachman and conductor often have a great
+deal of amusing conversation with them, which we can hear from the
+banquette; but we could not hear it, or see the process of harnessing
+and unharnessing,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> from the interior, nor even very well from the
+coup&eacute;."</p>
+
+<p>"Well," said Rollo. "I like that. But that makes only three advantages.
+You said there were four."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George. "But as to the fourth, I do not know whether you
+will consider it an advantage or not."</p>
+
+<p>"What is it?" said Rollo. "I've no doubt but I shall."</p>
+
+<p>"Why, in getting up and down to and from the banquette you will have a
+great deal of hard climbing to do."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Rollo. "I shall like that. They are all advantages&mdash;very
+great advantages indeed."</p>
+
+<p>So Rollo fully determined in his own mind that he would take places on
+the banquette. He thought that there was one disadvantage in that part
+of the coach; and that was, that in case of storm the rain would drive
+in directly upon them; but he found in the end that an excellent
+provision was made against this contingency.</p>
+
+<p>The young gentlemen had now finished their breakfasts; and so they rose
+and went out to what Rollo called the gallery, to see the embossed map
+of Switzerland which he said that he had seen hanging there. The plan of
+this hotel was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> very peculiar. In the centre of it was a very large,
+open hall, almost like a court, only it was covered above with a roof
+and lighted by a skylight. Around this hall there was, in each story, an
+open gallery, with a railing on one side, over which you could look down
+to the floor below; and on the other side, at short intervals, there
+were doors leading to the various apartments. Between these doors, and
+against the walls, were hanging maps, plans, pictures, and other
+embellishments, which gave to these galleries a very attractive
+appearance. Here and there, too, on the different stories, there were
+sofas or other seats, with persons sitting upon them. Some were sewing,
+and some were attending children who were playing near. At the two ends
+of the hotel there were broad staircases connected with these galleries
+and leading from one to the other. Besides the galleries there were long
+corridors, extending each way from the centre of the building to ranges
+of apartments situated in the wings. The hotel, in fact, was very
+spacious, and it was very admirably arranged.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo conducted Mr. George to the third story; and there, hanging
+against the wall, he found the embossed map of Switzerland which he had
+described. Mr. George and Rollo took this map down from its nail, and,
+seating them<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span>selves upon a settee which was near, they held it before
+them and examined it very attentively for some time. Mr. George showed
+Rollo the great central valley of Switzerland, with the ranges of
+mountains on each side of it. He showed him, too, the great slope of
+land which extended over the whole northern part of Switzerland. It was
+bounded on the north by the River Rhine and the frontier, and on the
+south by the great range of mountains which separated it from the
+valley. He showed him, too, the numerous lakes which were scattered over
+the surface of it.</p>
+
+<p>"You see," said he, "that the waters which come out from the glaciers
+and the snow fields, and down through the chasms and ravines in the
+mountain sides, flow on till they come to some valley or place of
+comparatively low land; and they spread all over this depression, and
+flow into it more and more until they fill it up and make a lake there.
+When the lake is full the surplus waters run off clear wherever they
+find a channel."</p>
+
+<p>"Is that the way the lakes are formed?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George. "You will see that it is so when we get up to
+them."</p>
+
+<p>"<i>Up</i> to them?" said Rollo. "You mean down to them."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"No," said Mr. George. "The lakes are up quite high. Many of them are
+far up the sides of the mountains. The water, in leaving them, runs very
+rapidly, showing that there is a great descent in the land where they
+are flowing. Sometimes, in fact, these streams and rivers, after they
+leave the lakes, form great cataracts and cascades in getting down to
+the level country below.</p>
+
+<p>"But now," continued Mr. George, "I must go to my writing, and you may
+see what you can do about the diligence."</p>
+
+<p>So Mr. George went away towards his room, leaving Rollo to hang up the
+embossed map and then to determine how he should go to work to ascertain
+what he was to do.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo found less difficulty than he had anticipated in procuring places
+in the diligence. He first inquired of the clerk, at the office of the
+hotel. The clerk offered to send a porter with him to show him the way
+to the diligence office; but Rollo said that he would prefer to go
+himself alone, if the clerk would tell him in what part of the town it
+was.</p>
+
+<p>So the clerk gave Rollo the necessary direction, and Rollo went forth.</p>
+
+<p>He found the diligence office very easily. In<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> fact, he recognized the
+place at once when he came near it, by seeing several diligences
+standing before it along the street. He entered under an archway. On
+entering, he observed several doors leading to various offices, with
+inscriptions over each containing the names of the various towns to
+which the several diligences were going. At length he found <span class="smcap">Berne</span>.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo did not know precisely in what way the business at such an office
+was to be transacted; but he had learned from past experience that all
+that was necessary in order to make himself understood in such cases
+was, to speak the principal words that were involved in the meaning that
+he was intending to convey, without attempting to make full and complete
+sentences of them. In cases where he adopted this mode of speaking he
+was accustomed usually to begin by saying that he could not speak French
+very well.</p>
+
+<p>Accordingly, in this instance he went to the place where the clerk was
+sitting and said,&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"I do not speak French very well. Diligence to Berne. Two places.
+Banquette."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes, yes," said the clerk. "I understand very well."</p>
+
+<p>The clerk then told him what the price would be of two seats on the
+banquette, and Rollo paid<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> the money. The clerk then made out and signed
+two very formal receipts and gave them to Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo walked back towards the hotel, studying his receipts by the way;
+but he could not understand them, as they were in the German language.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Chapter_V" id="Chapter_V"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter V.</span></h2>
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Ride to Berne.</span></h3>
+
+
+<p>At length the time arrived for the departure of our two travellers from
+Basle. A porter from the hotel carried their trunks to the diligence
+office, while Rollo and Mr. George walked. When they got to the place
+they found the diligence in the archway, and several men were employed
+in carrying up trunks and carpet bags to the top of it and stowing them
+away there. In doing this they ascended and descended by means of a long
+step ladder. The men took Mr. George's trunk and Rollo's and packed them
+away with the rest. There were several persons who looked like
+passengers standing near, waiting, apparently, for the diligence to be
+ready.</p>
+
+<p>Among them were two children, a girl and a boy, who seemed to be about
+Rollo's age. They were plainly but neatly dressed. They were sitting on
+a chest. The boy had a shawl over his arm, and the girl had a small
+morocco travelling bag in her hand.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The girl looked a moment at Rollo as he came up the archway, and then
+cast her eyes down again. Her eyes were blue, and they were large and
+beautiful and full of meaning. There was a certain gentleness in the
+expression of her countenance which led Rollo to think that she must be
+a kindhearted and amiable girl. The boy looked at Rollo too, and
+followed him some time with his eyes, gazing at him as he came up the
+archway with a look of interest and curiosity.</p>
+
+<p>It was not yet quite time for the diligence to set out. In fact, the
+horses were not yet harnessed to it; and during the interval Rollo and
+Mr. George stood by, watching the process of getting the coach ready for
+the journey, and contrasting the appearance of the vehicle, and of the
+men employed about it, and the arrangements which they were making, with
+the corresponding particulars in the setting off of a stage coach as
+they had witnessed it in America. While doing this Rollo walked about
+the premises a little; and at length, finding himself near the two
+children on the chest, he concluded to venture to accost the boy.</p>
+
+<p>"Are you going in this diligence?" said he, speaking in French.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," replied the boy.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"So am I," said Rollo. "Can you speak English?"</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said the boy. He spoke the yes in English.</p>
+
+<p>"Are you going to Berne?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"I don't know," said the boy.</p>
+
+<p>The girl, who had been looking at Rollo during this conversation, here
+spoke, and said that they <i>were</i> going to Berne.</p>
+
+<p>"We are going in that diligence," said she.</p>
+
+<p>"So am I," said Rollo. "I have got a seat on the banquette."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," rejoined the boy. "I wished to have a seat on the banquette, so
+that I could see; but the seats were all engaged before my father went
+to the office; so we are going in the coup&eacute;; but I don't like it half so
+well."</p>
+
+<p>"Nor I," said the girl.</p>
+
+<p>"Where is your father?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"He is gone," replied the boy, "with mother to buy something at a shop a
+little way from here. Lottie and I were tired, and so we preferred to
+stay here. But they are coming back pretty soon."</p>
+
+<p>"Are you all going to ride in the coup&eacute;?" said Rollo; "because, there
+will not be room. There is only room for three in the coup&eacute;."</p>
+
+<p>"I know it," said Lottie; "but then, as two of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> us are children, father
+thought that we could get along. Father had a plan for getting Adolphus
+a seat in the interior; but he was not willing to go there, because, he
+said, he could not see."</p>
+
+<p>Just at this moment the father and mother of Adolphus and Lottie came up
+the archway into the court yard where the diligence was standing. The
+horses had been brought out some minutes before and were now nearly
+harnessed. The gentleman seemed to be quite in a hurry as he came up;
+and, seeing that the horses were nearly ready, he said,&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"Now, children, get in and take your places as soon as possible."</p>
+
+<p>So they all went to the coach, and the gentleman attempted to open the
+door leading to the coup&eacute;. It was fastened.</p>
+
+<p>"Conductor," said he, speaking very eagerly to the conductor, who was
+standing near, "open this door!"</p>
+
+<p>"There is plenty of time," said the conductor. "There is no need of
+haste."</p>
+
+<p>However, in obedience to the request of the gentleman, the conductor
+opened the door; and the gentleman, helping his wife in, first,
+afterwards lifted the children in, and then got in himself. The
+conductor shut the door.</p>
+
+<p>"Come, uncle George," said Rollo, "is not it time for us to get up to
+our places?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"No," said Mr. George. "They will tell us when the proper time comes."</p>
+
+<p>So Mr. George and Rollo remained quietly standing by the side of the
+diligence while the hostlers finished harnessing the horses. Rollo
+during this time was examining with great interest the little steps and
+projections on the side of the coach by which he expected that he and
+Mr. George were to climb up to their places.</p>
+
+<p>It turned out in the end, however, that he was disappointed in his
+expectation of having a good climb; for, when the conductor was ready
+for the banquette passengers to take their places, he brought the step
+ladder and planted it against the side of the vehicle, and Mr. George
+and Rollo went up as easily as they would have gone up stairs.</p>
+
+<p>When the passengers were seated the step ladder was taken away, and a
+moment afterwards the postilion started the horses forward, and the
+ponderous vehicle began to move down the archway, the clattering of the
+horses' hoofs and the lumbering noise of the wheels sounding very loud
+in consequence of the echoes and reverberations produced by the sides
+and vaulting of the archway. As soon as the diligence reached the street
+the postilion began to crack his whip to the right and left in the most
+loud and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> vehement manner, and the coach went thundering on through the
+narrow streets of the town, driving every thing from before it as if it
+were a railway train going express.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/076.jpg" width="600" height="587" alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE DILLIGENCE AT THE OFFICE.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<p>"Uncle George," exclaimed Rollo, "they have forgotten the conductor!"</p>
+
+<p>Rollo was, in fact, quite concerned for a few minutes lest the conductor
+should have been left<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> behind. He knew where this official's proper seat
+was; namely, at the left end of the banquette&mdash;that is, at the right
+hand, as seen in the engraving; and as he was not there, and as he knew
+that all the other seats were full, he presumed, of course, that he had
+been left behind. He was relieved of these fears, however, very soon;
+for, to his great astonishment, he suddenly perceived the head of the
+conductor coming up the side of the coach, followed gradually by the
+rest of his body as he climbed up to his place. Rollo wondered how he
+could manage to get on and climb up, especially as the coach was at this
+time thundering along a descending portion of the street with a speed
+and uproar that was terrific.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo, though at first very much astonished at this performance of the
+conductor, afterwards ceased to wonder at it; for he found that the
+conductor could ascend and descend to and from his seat at any time
+without any difficulty, even while the horses were going at the top of
+their speed. If the snapper of the coachman's whip got caught in the
+harness so that he could not liberate it, as it often did on the road,
+the conductor would climb down, run forward to the horses, set the
+snapper free, fall back to the coach, catch hold of the side and climb
+up, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> coachman cracking his whip as soon as it was freed, and urging
+on his horses to a gallop, without troubling himself at all to consider
+how the conductor was to get up again.</p>
+
+<p>But to return to the story. When Rollo found that the conductor was safe
+he amused himself by looking to the right and left into the windows of
+the houses at the second story. His seat was so high that he could do
+this very easily. Many of these windows were open, and persons were
+sitting at them, sewing or reading. At some of them groups of children
+were standing. They were looking out to see the diligence go by. The
+street was so narrow that Rollo found himself very near these persons as
+he passed by.</p>
+
+<p>"A little nearer," said he to his uncle George, "and I could shake hands
+with them."</p>
+
+<p>In a very few minutes the coach passed under a great arched gateway
+leading through the wall of the city, and thence over a sort of
+drawbridge which spanned the moat. Immediately afterwards it entered a
+region of smooth, green fields, and pretty rural houses, and gardens,
+which presented on every side very charming pictures to the view.</p>
+
+<p>"Now, uncle George," said Rollo, "won't we have a magnificent ride?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Rollo was not disappointed in his anticipations. He found the ride to
+Berne a very magnificent one indeed. The road was smooth and hard as a
+floor. From side to side it was flat and level, and all the ascents
+which it made were so gradual that the horses trotted on at their full
+speed, without any cessation, sweeping around long and graceful curves,
+which brought continually into view new landscapes, each one, as it
+seemed, more varied and beautiful than the one which had preceded it.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span>
+From his lofty seat on the banquette Rollo looked abroad over a very
+wide extent of country; and when the coach stopped at the villages or
+post houses to change horses, he could look down with great advantage
+upon the fresh teams as they were brought out and upon the groups of
+hostlers and post boys employed in shifting the harness. He could hear,
+too, all that they said, though they generally talked so fast, and
+mingled their words with so much laughter and fun, that Rollo found that
+he could understand but little.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/080.jpg" width="600" height="377" alt="THE DILIGENCE ON THE ROAD." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE DILIGENCE ON THE ROAD.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Rollo was particularly struck, as he was whirled swiftly along the road,
+by the appearance of the Swiss houses. They were very large, and were
+covered with a very broad roof, which extended so far over the walls on
+every side as to appear like a great, square, broad-brimmed hat.
+Under<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> this roof were platforms projecting from the house, one on each
+story, like piazzas. These piazzas were very broad. They were bordered
+by balustrades on the outer edge, and were used for sheds, store houses,
+and tool rooms. There were wood piles, wagons, harrows, and other
+farming implements, bundles of straw, and stones piled up here and there
+upon them. In fact, the Swiss cottager has his house, and barn, and
+sheds, and outhouses all under one roof; and what there is not room for
+within he stores without upon these platforms.</p>
+
+<p>These houses were situated in the midst of the most beautiful fields and
+gardens, the whole forming a series of very charming landscapes. The
+view, too, as seen in many places along the road, was bounded at the
+south by a long line of snow-covered mountains, which glittered
+brilliantly in the sun and imparted an inexpressible fascination to the
+prospect.</p>
+
+<p>The diligence arrived at the city of Berne near night, and Mr. George
+and Rollo remained in that city until the next day at noon. Rollo was
+extremely interested in walking about the streets in the morning. In
+almost all the streets of Berne the second stories of the houses are
+extended over the sidewalks, the superincumbent masonry being supported
+by massive square pillars, built<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> up from the edge of the sidewalk
+below, and by arches above. Of course, in going along the sidewalk the
+passenger is sheltered by the roof above him, and in the worst weather
+he can go all over the city without being exposed to the rain excepting
+at the street crossings. This arrangement is a very convenient one,
+certainly, for rainy weather; but it gives the streets a very gloomy and
+forbidding appearance at other times.</p>
+
+<p>Still Rollo was very much amused in walking along under these arcades;
+the more so because, in addition to the shops in the buildings
+themselves, there were usually stalls and stands, between and around the
+pillars, filled with curious things of all sorts, which were for sale;
+so that in walking along he had a display of goods on both sides of him.
+These goods consisted of toys, books, pictures, tools, implements, and
+curiosities, including a multitude of things which Rollo had never seen
+or heard of before.</p>
+
+<p>Berne is famous for bears. The bear is, in fact, the emblem of the city,
+and of the canton, or province, in which Berne is situated. There is a
+story that in very ancient times, when Berchtold, the original founder
+of the city, was beginning to build the walls, a monstrous bear came out
+of the woods to attack him. Berchtold, with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> the assistance of the men
+who were at work with him on the walls, killed the bear. They gloried
+greatly in this exploit, and they preserved the skin and claws of the
+bear for a long time as the trophy of their victory. Afterwards they
+made the bear their emblem. They painted the figure of the animal on
+their standards. They made images and effigies of him to ornament their
+streets, and squares, and fountains, and public buildings. They stamped
+the image of him on their coins; and, to this day, you see figures of
+the bear every where in Berne. Carved images of Bruin in every attitude
+are for sale in the shops; and, not contented with these lifeless
+symbols, the people of Berne for a long time had a pit, or den, similar
+to those in the Garden of Plants at Paris, where they kept living
+specimens for a long time.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> This den was just without the gates of the
+city. The guide book which Rollo read as he was coming into Berne, to
+see what it said about the city, stated that there was one bear in the
+garden at that time; and he wished very much to go and see it, but he
+did not have a very convenient opportunity.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Chapter_VI" id="Chapter_VI"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter VI.</span></h2>
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">The Valley of the Aar.</span></h3>
+
+
+<p>After spending several hours in Berne and wondering greatly at the many
+strange things which they saw there, Mr. George and Rollo took their
+passage in another diligence for Thun, which was a town still farther in
+towards the heart of Switzerland on the way to Interlachen. It took only
+three or four hours to go to Thun. The town, they found, was small,
+compact, surrounded by walls, and very delightfully situated at the end
+of a long lake, which extended from that point very far in among the
+mountains. There was one thing very remarkable about Thun, at least it
+seemed very remarkable to Rollo, although he found afterwards that it
+was a common thing in Switzerland; and that was, that the hotels were
+all outside the town.</p>
+
+<p>There was reason in this; for the town&mdash;though it was a very curious and
+romantic place, with a church on a terraced hill at one end of it,
+surrounded with a beautifully ornamented church<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> yard, with seats and
+bowers here and there at the corners of it, which overlooked the country
+and commanded charming views of the lake and mountains&mdash;was still, in
+the main, very contracted and confined, and hotels would not be
+pleasantly situated in it. A little beyond the town, however, on the
+margin of the lake, was a delightful region of gardens and pleasure
+grounds, with four or five very handsome hotels among them. Mr. George
+and Rollo stopped to dine at one of these hotels. From the windows of it
+there were the most brilliant and charming prospects of the lake and the
+surrounding mountains on one side, and on the other a view of the town
+and of two or three very pretty little steamboats lying at a pier.</p>
+
+<p>Behind the hotel the land very soon ascended rapidly, the ascent
+terminating at last in crags and precipices which towered at a vast
+height above. Among these heights Rollo saw a sort of pavilion, built on
+a small projecting point of a hill, four or five hundred feet, perhaps,
+above the hotel.</p>
+
+<p>"Do you think any body can get up there?" said he to his uncle George.</p>
+
+<p>They were standing, when Rollo said this, on the back piazza of the
+hotel&mdash;a very beautiful place, looking out upon green lawns and
+gardens.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Certainly," said Mr. George. "They would not have built such a lookout
+as that without making a way to get to it."</p>
+
+<p>"Then let's go up there," said Rollo, "and see what we can see."</p>
+
+<p>"Very well," said Mr. George; "lead the way, and I will follow."</p>
+
+<p>"Well, come," said Rollo, moving on. "I am not sure that I can find the
+way; but I'll try."</p>
+
+<p>So saying, Rollo chose from among several broad and smooth gravel walks
+which he saw diverging from the house in various directions, among the
+groves and copses of shrubbery that ornamented the grounds behind it,
+the one which seemed to turn most nearly in the right direction; and,
+running along before, he was soon out of sight of the hotel. The path
+meandered gracefully among shrubs, and flowers, and pretty green
+openings a little way, and then began to ascend the hill, sometimes in a
+winding course and sometimes by zigzags. There were seats placed here
+and there at proper points for rest. At length both Rollo and Mr. George
+were surprised to find coming suddenly into view a small building, which
+stood in a very romantic and picturesque spot about half way up the
+hill, which proved, on examination, to be a little chapel. It was an
+Episcopal chapel, built here<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> by the proprietor of the hotel for the
+accommodation of his English guests on Sundays. There are a great many
+English travellers in Switzerland, more perhaps from that nation than
+from any other, and the English people are very much pleased with the
+opportunity to worship God, when in foreign lands, according to the
+rites and usages of their own national church. Americans, on the other
+hand, when travelling, generally prefer to attend churches in which the
+worship is conducted according to the usages of the people in whose
+country they chance to be.</p>
+
+<p>After looking at the little English chapel as long as they wished, our
+two travellers went on up the path. The ascent soon became very steep,
+and the way led through close woods, which allowed of no opportunity to
+see, except that now and then a brief glimpse was obtained of the hotel,
+with the gardens and grounds around it, and the gentlemen and ladies
+walking upon the piazza in the rear of it.</p>
+
+<p>After about a quarter of an hour of hard climbing up a wild and romantic
+but very smooth and well made path the two young gentlemen reached the
+pavilion. Here a boundless and most magnificent prospect was opened
+before them. Rollo was bewildered with astonishment and delight; and
+even Mr. George, who was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> usually very cool and quiet on such occasions,
+seemed greatly pleased. I shall not, however, attempt to describe the
+view; for, though a fine view from an elevated point among lakes and
+mountains is a very exciting thing actually to witness and enjoy, it is
+by no means an interesting thing to describe.</p>
+
+<p>"What a magnificent prospect!" said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo, as he said this, was looking down at the more near and distinctly
+detailed objects which were to be seen directly below him at the bottom
+of the hill, towards the right&mdash;such as the hotels, the gardens, the
+roads, the pier, the steamboats, and the town. The attention of Mr.
+George, however, was attracted by the more grand and sublime features of
+the view which were to be seen in the other direction&mdash;the lake, the
+forests, and the mountains. The mountains that were near were darkened
+by the groves of evergreens that clothed their sides, and some of them
+were made more sombre still by the shadows of floating clouds; while
+over these there towered the glittering summits of more distant ranges,
+white with everlasting snow.</p>
+
+<p>"How cold they look!" said Mr. George; "how icy cold!"</p>
+
+<p>"How little they look! how very little! See,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> uncle George," said Rollo,
+pointing; "they are really good large steamboats, and you would think
+they were only playthings."</p>
+
+<p>"There are some men walking along the road," continued Rollo, "just like
+little dots."</p>
+
+<p>"See the banks of snow on that mountain, Rollo!" said Mr. George. "They
+look like drifts of dry, light snow, as they shine in the sun on a
+bitter cold winter day."</p>
+
+<p>"Why doesn't it melt?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Because it is up so high," said Mr. George. "As you go up in the air
+from the surface of the earth the air grows colder and colder, until at
+last, when you get up to a certain height, it is cold enough to freeze."</p>
+
+<p>"Is it so every where?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George. "If you were to put some water into a vial and
+tie it to the tail of a kite, and send it up into the air <i>high enough</i>,
+the water would freeze, and when it came down you would find the water
+turned into ice."</p>
+
+<p>"Should I?" asked Rollo. "Would it if I were to send the kite up in
+America?"</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George, "any where, all over the earth."</p>
+
+<p>"I mean to try it," said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"You can't try it very well," replied Mr. George; "for you could not
+easily send a kite<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> up high enough. It would take a very long time."</p>
+
+<p>"How long?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Why, that depends upon what part of the earth it is that you make the
+experiment in," replied Mr. George. "At the equator, where the sun is
+very hot, you would have to go up very high. In temperate regions, as in
+Switzerland or in most parts of America, you would not have to go up so
+high; and farther north, near the pole, it is only necessary to go up a
+very little way."</p>
+
+<p>"And how high must we go up in Switzerland?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"About eight or nine thousand feet, I believe," said Mr. George. "Some
+of the Alpine summits are sixteen thousand feet high; and so the ice and
+snow lie upon the upper portions of them all the time."</p>
+
+<p>The young gentlemen remained some time longer in the pavilion, gazing
+upon the stupendous scenery around them, and looking down the lake which
+lay before them in the bottom of a deep and narrow valley and extended
+in among the mountains much farther than they could see.</p>
+
+<p>"We are going along that lake," said Rollo "are we not?"</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George; "it is the Lake of Thun."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"We are going in one of the steamboats that are lying at the pier, are
+we not?" said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George; "unless you would prefer going along the shore."</p>
+
+<p>"Is there a road along the shore?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George; "there are two, I believe, one on each side of
+the lake. These roads run along at the foot of the mountains, far
+enough, however, above the level of the lake to enable us to enjoy
+excellent views of it. But we cannot see the mountains from it as well
+as we can from the lake itself."</p>
+
+<p>"Then," said Rollo, "if we go by the road we can see the lake best; and
+if we go by the steamboat we can see the mountains best."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George; "that is the state of the case, exactly."</p>
+
+<p>"Then I think we had better go by the boat," said Rollo; "for I would
+rather see the mountains."</p>
+
+<p>"So would I," rejoined Mr. George. "Besides, there will be plenty of
+occasions on which we shall be obliged to go by land; therefore we had
+better go by water when we can, in order to have a variety. And, if we
+are going in the steamer, we must go back to the hotel; for it is almost
+time for the steamer to sail."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>So Mr. George led the way, and Rollo followed, down the path by which
+they had come up. As they thus walked down they continued the
+conversation which they had commenced in the pavilion.</p>
+
+<p>"What shall we come to when we get to the end of the lake?" asked Rollo.
+"Does the lake reach to the end of the valley?"</p>
+
+<p>"No," said Mr. George. "The valley is about fifty miles long, I suppose,
+and this lake is only about fifteen miles long; but there is another in
+the same valley a little farther on. The valley is the valley of the
+Aar. That is the name of the stream which flows through it. It is one of
+the most remarkable valleys in Switzerland. I have been studying it in
+the guide book and on the map. It is about fifty miles long, and it
+winds in a serpentine manner between two lofty ranges of mountains, so
+steep and high that it is not possible to make any road over them."</p>
+
+<p>"None at all?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"No," replied Mr. George. "They cannot make any road&mdash;nothing but bridle
+paths. The mountains, too, that border the valley along the sides close
+across at the head of it; so that if you go up the valley at all you
+cannot get out of it without climbing over the mountains; unless,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span>
+indeed, you are willing to come back the same way that you went."</p>
+
+<p>"I would rather climb over the mountains," said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"So would I," said Mr. George. "The beginning of this valley," continued
+Mr. George "is in the very heart of the most mountainous part of
+Switzerland, and the River Aar commences there in prodigious cascades
+and waterfalls, which come down over the cliffs and precipices or gush
+out from enormous crevices and chasms, and make quite a river at the
+very beginning."</p>
+
+<p>"Can we go there and see them?" said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," replied Mr. George; "I mean to go and see them. The place is
+called Meyringen. The cascades and waterfalls at Meyringen are
+wonderful. One of them, the guide book says, makes dreadful work in
+times of flood. It comes out from a great chasm in the rocks in the face
+of a precipice at a vast height from the ground; and, in times of flood,
+it brings down such a mass of sand, gravel, stones, rubbish, and black
+mud as sometimes to threaten to overwhelm the village."</p>
+
+<p>"Is there a village there?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George; "the village of Meyringen. This waterfall comes
+down out of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> the mountain just back of the village; and they have had to
+build up an immense wall, a quarter of a mile long and twenty or thirty
+feet high, to keep the torrent of mud and sand out of the streets. Once
+it broke through and filled up the church four feet deep all over the
+floor with mud, and gravel, and stones. Some of the stones were bigger
+than your head."</p>
+
+<p>Rollo was very much interested in hearing this account of the Fall of
+Alpbach,&mdash;for that was the name of this unmanageable cataract,&mdash;and
+expressed a very strong desire to go to Meyringen and see it.</p>
+
+<p>"We will go," said Mr. George. "It lies at the head of the valley of the
+Aar, which we are now entering. The River Aar, after being formed by
+these cataracts and cascades, flows through the valley, making two long
+lakes in its course. This Lake of Thun is the second one. The other is
+the Lake of Brienz. The upper end of the Lake of Thun is a few miles
+only from the lower end of the Lake of Brienz; and Interlachen is
+between the two."</p>
+
+
+
+<p>About an hour after this conversation our two travellers might have been
+seen sitting together upon the deck of the little steamer which was
+paddling its way merrily along the lake, and occupying themselves in
+viewing and talking about<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> the extraordinary spectacle presented by
+the slopes of the mountains which bordered the lake on either side, and
+which seemed to shut the lake in, as it were, between two immense walls
+of green.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/096.jpg" width="600" height="357" alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE LAKE SHORE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Rollo was extremely interested, as he sailed along, in viewing these
+mountain slopes, exploring the landscape carefully in every part,
+studying out all the objects of interest which it contained&mdash;the
+forests, the cultivated fields, the great Swiss cottages, the
+pasturages, the little chalets, the zigzag paths leading up and down,
+and all the other picturesque and striking characteristics of a Swiss
+landscape.</p>
+
+<p>The slopes were very beautiful, and densely inhabited; and they were
+really very steep, though they looked much steeper than they were, as
+all hills and slopes do to a person looking upon them from below and
+facing them.</p>
+
+<p>"It seems," said Rollo to Mr. George, "as if two broad strips of green
+country were set up on edge for us to see them as we are sailing along."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George; "with all the houses, farms, pasturages, flocks
+of sheep, and herds of cattle clinging to the sides of them."</p>
+
+<p>The chief charm, however, of the views which presented themselves to the
+young travellers as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> they glided along the lake was the glittering
+refulgence of the snow-clad peaks which appeared here and there through
+openings among the nearer mountains. The view of these peaks was
+occasionally obstructed by masses of vapor which were floating along the
+tops of the mountain ranges; but still they were seen frequently enough
+to fill the minds both of Rollo and Mr. George with wonder and delight.</p>
+
+<p>After gazing at this scenery for nearly an hour until his curiosity in
+respect to it was in some measure satisfied, Rollo began to turn his
+attention to his fellow-travellers on board the steamer. These
+travellers were seated singly or in groups about the deck of the little
+vessel, and they were all tourists, journeying for pleasure. Here was a
+small group of young men&mdash;students apparently&mdash;with knapsacks on their
+backs, spyglasses strapped to their sides, and maps and guide books in
+their hands. There was a young lady seated with her father, both dressed
+for the mountains, and gazing with curiosity and wonder on the views
+presented along the shores of the lake. In another place was a family of
+parents and children&mdash;the father studying a map which he had spread open
+upon his knees, the mother sitting by his side, silent and thoughtful,
+as if her mind was far away, dwelling, per<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span>haps, upon the little ones
+which had been left at home because they were too young to be taken on
+such a tour. Some of these people were talking French, some English, and
+some German. Rollo looked about upon these various groups for a time,
+and then said,&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"Are all these travellers going to see the mountains, do you suppose,
+uncle George?"</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George; "I suppose so. There is very little travelling
+in Switzerland except pleasure travelling. I presume they are all going
+to see the mountains and the other scenery of the country."</p>
+
+<p>"I should not think that the ladies could climb up the mountains very
+high," said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George, "they can; for in almost all places where people
+wish to go there are excellent paths. Where it is too steep for roads
+the mountaineers make zigzag paths, not only for travellers, but for
+themselves, in order that they may go up and down to their chalets and
+pasturages. The people of the country have been making and improving
+these paths now for two thousand years or more, and they have got them
+at last in very excellent condition; so that, except the steepness, they
+are very easy and very comfortable."</p>
+
+<p>"Why, uncle George," said Rollo, "look!"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>So saying, Rollo pointed his finger out over the water. The mountains
+had suddenly and entirely disappeared. The vapors and clouds which they
+had seen floating among them half an hour before had become dense and
+continuous, and had, moreover, settled down over the whole face of the
+country in such a manner as to shut out the mountains wholly from view.
+Nothing was to be seen but the water of the lake, with a margin of low
+and level but beautiful country along the shores of it.</p>
+
+<p>In fact, there was nothing but the smallness of the steamer and the
+costumes and character of the passengers to prevent Rollo and Mr. George
+from supposing that they were steaming it from New York to Albany, up
+the North River, in America.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><a name="map" id="map"></a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/map-tb.jpg" class="jpg" width="500" height="320" alt="map of Interlachen" title="" />
+<span class="link"><a href="images/mapfull.jpg">View larger image</a></span>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Chapter_VII" id="Chapter_VII"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter VII.</span></h2>
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Interlachen.</span></h3>
+
+
+<p>About eight o'clock on the morning after our travellers arrived at
+Interlachen Rollo awoke, and, rising from his bed, he walked to the
+window and looked out, expecting to find before him a very grand
+prospect of Alpine scenery; but there was nothing of the kind to be
+seen.</p>
+
+<p>Before the house was a garden, with a broad gravel walk leading out
+through it to the road. On each side of this walk were parterres of
+shrubbery and flowers. There were also two side approaches, wide enough
+for roads. They came from the main road through great open gates, at a
+little distance to the right and left of the hotel. The main road, which
+was broad and perfectly level, extended in front of the house; and two
+or three Swiss peasants, in strange costume, were passing by. Beyond
+were green and level fields, with fruit and forest trees rising here and
+there among them, forming a very rich and attractive landscape. The sky<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span>
+was covered with clouds, though they were very fleecy and bright, and in
+one place the sun seemed just ready to break through.</p>
+
+<p>"I thought Interlachen was among the mountains," said Rollo to himself;
+"and here I am in the middle of a flat plain.</p>
+
+<p>"I will go and see uncle George," he continued after a moment's pause,
+"and ask him what it means."</p>
+
+<p>So Rollo opened the door of his room and went out into what in America
+would be called the entry, or hall. He found himself in a long corridor
+paved with stone, and having broad stone staircases leading up and down
+from it to the different stories. In one place there was a passage way
+which led to a window that seemed to be on the back side of the hotel.
+Rollo went there to look out, in order to see what the prospect might be
+in that direction.</p>
+
+<p>He saw first the gardens and grounds of the hotel, extending for a short
+distance in the rear of the building, and beyond them he obtained
+glimpses of a rapidly running stream. The water was very turbid. It
+boiled and whirled incessantly as it swept swiftly along the channel.</p>
+
+<p>"Ah," said Rollo, "that is the River Aar, I suppose, flowing through
+Interlachen from one lake to the other. I thought I should see it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span>
+somewhere here; but I did not know whether it was before the hotels or
+behind them."</p>
+
+<p>A short distance beyond the stream Rollo saw the lower part of a
+perpendicular precipice of gray rock. All except the lower part of this
+precipice was concealed by the fogs and clouds, which seemed to settle
+down so low upon the landscape in all directions as to conceal almost
+every thing but the surface of the ground.</p>
+
+<p>"I wonder how high that precipice is," said Rollo to himself.</p>
+
+<p>"I wonder whether I could climb up to the top of it," he continued,
+still talking to himself, "if I could only find some way to get across
+the river? There must be some way, I suppose. Perhaps there is a
+bridge."</p>
+
+<p>Rollo then turned his eye upward to look at the clouds. In one place
+there seemed to be a break among them, and the fleecy masses around the
+break were slowly moving along. The place where Rollo was looking was
+about the middle of the sky; that is, about midway between the horizon
+and the zenith.<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> While Rollo was looking at this break, which seemed,
+while he looked at it, to brighten up and open more and more,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> he saw
+suddenly, to his utter amazement, a large green tree burst into view in
+the midst of it, and then disappear again a moment afterwards as a fresh
+mass of cloudy vapor drifted over. Rollo was perfectly bewildered with
+astonishment. To see a green tree, clear and distinct in form and bright
+with the beams of the sun which just at that instant caught upon it,
+breaking out to view suddenly high up among the clouds of the sky,
+seemed truly an astonishing spectacle. Rollo had scarcely recovered from
+the first emotion of his surprise before the clouds parted again, wider
+than before, and brought into view, first a large mass of foliage, which
+formed the termination of a grove of trees; then a portion of a smooth,
+green field, with a flock of sheep feeding upon it, clinging apparently
+to the steep slope like flies to a wall; and finally a house, with a
+little blue smoke curling from the chimney. Rollo was perfectly beside
+himself with astonishment and delight at this spectacle; and he
+determined immediately to go and ask his uncle to come and see.</p>
+
+<p>He accordingly left the window and made all haste to his uncle's door.
+He knocked. His uncle said, "Come in." Rollo opened the door. His uncle
+was standing by the window of his room, looking out. This was on the
+front side of the hotel.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Uncle George!" said Rollo, "Uncle George! Come and look out with me at
+the back window. There is a flock of sheep feeding in a green field away
+up in the sky!"</p>
+
+<p>"Come and look here!" said Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>So Rollo went to the window where Mr. George was standing, and his
+astonishment at what he saw was even greater than before. The clouds had
+separated into great fleecy masses and were slowly drifting away, while
+through the openings that appeared in them there were seen bright and
+beautiful views of groves, green pasturages, smiling little hamlets and
+villages, green fields, and here and there dark forests of evergreen
+trees, with peaks of rocks or steep precipices peeping out among them.
+At one place, through an opening or gap in the nearer mountains, there
+could be seen far back towards the horizon the broad sides and towering
+peak of a distant summit, which seemed to be wholly formed of vast
+masses of ice and snow, and which glittered with an inexpressible
+brilliancy under the rays of the morning sun.</p>
+
+<p>"That is the Jungfrau,"<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> said Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>"That great icy mountain?" said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>"Can we get up to the top of it?" asked Rollo.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"No," said Mr. George. "People tried for more than a thousand years to
+get to the top of the Jungfrau before they could succeed."</p>
+
+<p>"And did they succeed at last?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," replied Mr. George. "You see there is a sort of goatlike animal,
+called the <i>chamois</i>,<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> which the peasants and mountaineers are very
+fond of hunting. These animals are great climbers, and they get up among
+the highest peaks and into the most dangerous places; and the hunters,
+in going into such places after them, become at last very expert in
+climbing, and sometimes they become ambitious of surpassing each other,
+and each one wishes to see how high he can get. So one time, about
+twenty-five years ago, a party of six of these hunters undertook to get
+to the top of the Jungfrau, and at last they succeeded. But it was a
+dreadfully difficult and dangerous operation. It was fifteen miles'
+steep climbing."</p>
+
+<p>"Not steep climbing all the way," said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"No," said Mr. George, "I suppose not all the way. There must have been
+some up-and-down work, and some perhaps tolerably level, for the first
+ten miles; but the last five must have been a perpetual scramble among
+rocks and ice and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> over vast drifts of snow, with immense avalanches
+thundering down the mountain sides all around them."</p>
+
+<p>"I wish I could go and see them," said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"You can go," replied Mr. George. "There is a most excellent chance to
+see the face of the Jungfrau very near; for there is another mountain
+this side of it, with a narrow valley between. This other mountain is
+called the Wengern Alp. It is about two thirds the height of the
+Jungfrau, and is so near it that from the top of it, or near the top,
+you can see the whole side of the Jungfrau rising right before you and
+filling half the sky, and you can see and hear the avalanches thundering
+down the sides of it all day long."</p>
+
+<p>Rollo was quite excited at this account, and was very eager to set off
+as soon as possible to go up the Wengern Alp.</p>
+
+<p>"How do we get there?" asked he.</p>
+
+<p>"You see this great gap in the near mountains," said Mr. George,
+pointing.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"That gap," continued Mr. George, "is the mouth of a valley. I have been
+studying it out this morning in my guide book. There is a good carriage
+road leading up this valley. It is called the valley of the L&uuml;tschine,
+because that is the name of the river which comes down through<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> it. In
+going up this valley for the first two or three miles we are going
+directly towards the Jungfrau."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Rollo. "That I can see very plainly."</p>
+
+<p>This was indeed very obvious; for the Jungfrau, from the windows of the
+hotel, was seen through the great gap in the near mountains which Mr.
+George had pointed out as the mouth of the valley of the L&uuml;tschine. In
+fact, had it not been for that gap in the near mountains, the great
+snow-covered summit could not have been seen from the hotels at all.</p>
+
+<p>"We go up that valley," continued Mr. George, "about three miles, and
+then we come to a fork in it; that is, to a place where the valley
+divides into two branches, one turning off to the right and the other to
+the left. Directly ahead there is an enormous precipice, I don't know
+how many thousand feet high, of bare rock.</p>
+
+<p>"One of these branch valleys," continued Mr. George, "leads up to one
+side of the Wengern Alp and the Jungfrau, and the other to the other
+side. We may take the right-hand valley and go up five or six miles to
+Lauterbrunnen, or we may take the left-hand branch and go up to
+Grindelwald. Which way do you think we had better go?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"I do not know," said Rollo. "Can we get up to the Wengern Alp from
+either valley?"</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George. "We can go up from one of these valleys, and
+then, after stopping as long as we choose on the Alp, we can continue
+our journey and so come down into the other, and thus see them both. One
+of the valleys is famous for two great glaciers that descend into it.
+The other is famous for immense waterfalls that come down over the
+precipices at the sides."</p>
+
+<p>"Let us go first and see the waterfalls," said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Well," said Mr. George, "we will. We shall have to turn to the right in
+that case and go to Lauterbrunnen. When we get to Lauterbrunnen we shall
+have to leave our carriage and take horses to go up to the Wengern Alp.
+The way is by a steep path, formed in zigzags, right up the sides of the
+mountains."</p>
+
+<p>"How far is it?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"I don't know precisely," said Mr. George; "but it is a good many miles.
+It takes, at any rate, several hours to go up. We can stop at the
+Wengern Alp as long as we please and look at the Jungfrau and the
+avalanches, and after that go on down into the valley of Grindelwald on
+the other side, and so come home."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"But how can we get our carriage?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"O, they send the carriage back, I believe," said Mr. George, "from
+Lauterbrunnen to the great precipice at the fork of the valley."</p>
+
+<p>Mr. George, having thus finished his account of the topography of the
+route to the Wengern Alp, went away from the window and returned to the
+table where he had been employed in writing some letters just before
+Rollo had come in. Rollo was left at the window. He leaned his arms upon
+the sill, and, looking down to the area below, amused himself with
+observing what was going on there.</p>
+
+<p>There were several persons standing or sitting upon the piazza.
+Presently he heard the sound of wheels. A carriage came driving up
+towards the door. A postilion was riding upon one of the horses. There
+were two servants sitting on the box; and there was a seat behind, where
+another servant and the lady's maid were sitting. The carriage stopped,
+the door was opened, and a lady and gentleman with two boys, all dressed
+like travellers, got out, and were ushered into the house with great
+civility by the landlord. The baggage was taken off and carried in, and
+then the carriage was driven away round the corner.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>This was an English nobleman and his family, who were making the tour of
+Switzerland, and were going to spend a few days at Interlachen on the
+way.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the bustle produced by this arrival had subsided, Rollo's
+attention was attracted by a very sweet musical sound which seemed to be
+produced by something coming along the road.</p>
+
+<p>"What can that be, I wonder?" said he to himself.</p>
+
+<p>Then in a little louder tone, but without turning round,&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"Uncle George, here is some music coming. What do you think it is?"</p>
+
+<p>Mr. George paused a moment to listen, and then went on with his writing.</p>
+
+<p>The mystery was soon solved; for, in a few moments after Rollo had
+spoken, he saw a large flock of goats coming along. These goats all had
+bells upon their necks,&mdash;or at least a great many of them were so
+provided,&mdash;and these bells, having a soft and sweet tone, produced, when
+their sounds were blended together, an enchanting harmony. The goats
+walked demurely along, driven by one or two goatherds who were following
+them, and soon disappeared behind the trees and shrubbery. Very soon
+after their forms had disappeared from view the music of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> their bells
+began to grow fainter and fainter until it ceased to be heard.</p>
+
+<p>"It was a flock of goats going by," said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo next heard voices; and, turning in the direction whence the sounds
+proceeded, he saw a party of young men coming up towards the door of the
+hotel along the gravelled avenue. This was a party of German students
+making the tour of Switzerland on foot. They had knapsacks on their
+backs, and stout walking sticks and guide books in their hands. They
+came up talking and laughing together, full of hilarity and glee; and
+yet some of them seemed very tired. They had walked six miles that
+morning, and were now going to stop at this hotel for breakfast. Rollo
+listened to their conversation; but, as it was in the German language,
+he could not understand one word that they were saying.</p>
+
+<p>"Dear me!" said he; "I wish that every body would talk either French or
+English."</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the students had passed on into the inn Rollo heard another
+carriage coming. He looked and found that it was a <i>char &agrave; banc</i>. A char
+&agrave; banc is a small, one-horse carriage, which looks upon the outside very
+much like what is called a carryall in America, only it is much
+narrower. It differs very much, however, from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> a carryall within; for it
+has only a seat for two persons, and that is placed sideways, with the
+end to the horses. You ride in it, therefore, sideways, as you do in an
+omnibus, only in an omnibus there are two seats, one on each side, and
+the door is at the end; whereas in the char &agrave; banc there is a seat only
+on one side, and the door is opposite to it on the other. The seat is
+large and comfortable, being very much like a short sofa. Some people,
+therefore, describe a char &agrave; banc as a sofa placed endwise on wheels.</p>
+
+<p>The char &agrave; banc stopped before the door of the hotel; and the coachman,
+getting down from his seat in front, opened the door. A very
+dignified-looking gentleman stepped out; and, after standing a moment on
+the piazza to give some directions about his portmanteau, he went into
+the office of the hotel.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo, looking down from the window of his uncle George's room, could
+see all these things very plainly; for the roof which protected the
+piazza from the rain was up at the top of the hotel, and therefore did
+not interfere with his view.</p>
+
+<p>After having made the above-described observations from the window,
+Rollo began to think that he would like to go down below to the door,
+where he thought he could see what was going on to better advantage.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Uncle George," said he, "when are you going down to breakfast?"</p>
+
+<p>"In about half an hour," said Mr. George. "I have got another letter to
+write."</p>
+
+<p>"Then I believe I will go down now," said Rollo, "and wait there till
+you come."</p>
+
+<p>"Very well," said Mr. George; "and please order breakfast, and then it
+will be all ready when I get my letter finished."</p>
+
+<p>"What shall I order?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"I don't know," said Mr. George. "I don't know what it is the fashion to
+have for breakfast here. Ask them what they have got, and then choose
+for yourself and me."</p>
+
+<p>So Rollo, putting on his cap, went down stairs.</p>
+
+<p>He stood for a little time on the piazza, looking at the strange dresses
+of the people that were sitting or standing there and listening to the
+outlandish sounds of the foreign languages which they were speaking. At
+a little distance out upon the gravel walk, near the shrubbery, were a
+party of guides waiting to be hired for mountain excursions. Some of
+these guides were talking with travellers, forming plans, or agreeing
+upon the terms on which they were to serve. Rollo, after observing these
+groups a little time, walked along the piazza towards a place where he
+saw an open door in another<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> large building, which, being connected with
+the piazza, evidently belonged to the hotel. In fact, it was a sort of
+wing. As there were people going in and out at this door, Rollo thought
+that he could go in too.</p>
+
+<p>He accordingly walked along in that direction. Before he reached the
+door he came to a place which, though open to the air, was covered with
+a roof, and was so enclosed by the buildings on three sides as to make
+quite a pleasant little nook. It was ornamented by various shrubs and
+flowers which grew from tubs and large pots arranged against the sides
+of it. There were several tables in this space, with chairs around them,
+and one or two parties of young men were taking their breakfast here.</p>
+
+<p>"This will be a good place for uncle George and me to have our
+breakfast," said Rollo to himself, "and we can see the Jungfrau all the
+time while we are eating it."</p>
+
+<p>Rollo then went on into the open door. He found himself ushered into a
+very large and beautiful drawing room. There were a great many sofas
+arranged around the sides of it, on which parties of ladies and
+gentlemen were sitting talking together; while other gentlemen, their
+hats in their hands, were standing before them or walking about the
+floor. There was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> no carpet; but the floor was formed of dark wood
+highly polished, and was very beautiful. There was a fireplace in one
+corner of this room; but there was no fire in it. No fire was necessary;
+for it was a warm and pleasant morning.</p>
+
+<p>On the front side of the room was a row of windows looking out towards
+the road. On the back side was a door opening to another large room,
+where Rollo saw a table spread and several people sitting at it eating
+their breakfast.</p>
+
+<p>"Ah," said Rollo, "there is the dining room! I will go in there and see
+what we can have for breakfast."</p>
+
+<p>So he walked through the drawing room and entered the room beyond. He
+found that this inner room was quite a spacious apartment; and there
+were one or two long tables extending the whole length of it.</p>
+
+<p>There were various separate parties sitting at these tables taking
+breakfast. Some were just beginning. Some had just ended. Some were
+waiting for their breakfast to be brought in. Near where Rollo was
+standing two gentlemen were seated at the table, with a map of
+Switzerland spread before them; and, instead of being occupied with
+breakfast, they were planning some excursion for the day.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Rollo looked out a vacant place at the table and took his seat. A waiter
+came to him to know what he would have.</p>
+
+<p>"I want breakfast for two," said Rollo, "my uncle and myself. What have
+you got for us?"</p>
+
+<p>The waiter repeated a long list of very nice things that he could give
+Rollo and his uncle for breakfast. From among these Rollo chose a beef
+steak, some hot rolls and butter, some honey, and some coffee. The
+waiter went out to prepare them.</p>
+
+<p>In about ten minutes Mr. George came down. He took his seat by the side
+of Rollo; and very soon afterwards the waiter brought in what had been
+ordered. Rollo liked the breakfast very much, especially the honey.</p>
+
+<p>It is very customary to have honey for breakfast in Switzerland.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Chapter_VIII" id="Chapter_VIII"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter VIII.</span></h2>
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Lauterbrunnen.</span></h3>
+
+
+<p>"Come, uncle George," said Rollo, "make haste. We are all ready."</p>
+
+<p>Rollo was sitting in a char &agrave; banc when he said this, at the door of the
+hotel. He and his uncle were going to make an excursion up the valley of
+the L&uuml;tschine to Lauterbrunnen, and thence to ascend the Wengern Alp, in
+order to see the avalanches of the Jungfrau; and Rollo was in haste to
+set out.</p>
+
+<p>"Come, uncle George," said he, "make haste."</p>
+
+<p>Mr. George was coming out of the hotel slowly, talking with the
+landlord.</p>
+
+<p>"The guide will take you to Lauterbrunnen," said the landlord, "in the
+char &agrave; banc; and then he will send the char &agrave; banc back down the valley
+to the fork, and thence up to Grindelwald to wait for you there. You
+will go up to the Wengern Alp from Lauterbrunnen; and then, after
+staying there as long as you please, you will keep on and come down to
+Grindelwald on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> the other side, where you will find the carriage ready
+for you.<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> But it seems to me that you had better take another horse."</p>
+
+<p>"No," said Mr. George. "One will do very well."</p>
+
+<p>Mr. George had a carpet bag in his hand. It contained nightdresses, to
+be used in case he and Rollo should conclude to spend the night on the
+mountain. He put the carpet bag into the carriage, and then got in
+himself. The landlord shut the door, and the coachman drove away. Thus
+they set out on their excursion.</p>
+
+<p>This excursion to the Wengern Alp was only one of many similar
+expeditions which Rollo and Mr. George made together while they were in
+Switzerland. As, however, it is manifestly impossible to describe the
+whole of Switzerland in so small a volume as this, I shall give a
+narrative of the ascent of the Wengern Alp as a sort of specimen of
+these excursions. I think it better that I should give a minute and
+particular account of one than a more vague and general, and so less
+satisfactory, account of several of them.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo had taken the precaution to have the curtains of the char &agrave; banc
+rolled up, so that he<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> and Mr. George could see out freely on all sides
+of them as they rode along.</p>
+
+<p>The view which was first presented to their observation was that of the
+lawns and gardens in the midst of which the hotels were situated. These
+grounds were connected together by walks&mdash;some straight, others
+winding&mdash;which passed through bowers and gateways from one enclosure to
+the other. In these walks various parties were strolling; some were
+gathering flowers, others were gazing at the mountains around, and
+others still were moving quietly along, going from one hotel to another
+for the purpose of taking a pleasant morning walk or to make visits to
+their friends. The whole scene was a bright and very animated one; but
+Rollo had not time to observe it long; for the char &agrave; banc, after moving
+by a graceful sweep around a copse of shrubbery, passed out through a
+great gateway in the road, and the hotels and all that pertained to them
+were soon hidden from view by the great trees which grew along the
+roadside before them.</p>
+
+<p>The coachman, or rather the guide,&mdash;for the man who was driving the char
+&agrave; banc was the one who was to act as guide up the mountain when they
+reached Lauterbrunnen,&mdash;turned soon into a road which led off towards
+the gap, or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> opening, in the nearer mountains which Mr. George and Rollo
+had seen from the windows of the hotel. The road was very smooth and
+level, and the two travellers, as they rode along, had a fine view of
+the fields, the hamlets, and the scattered cottages which bordered the
+road on the side to which their faces were turned.</p>
+
+<p>"This char &agrave; banc," said Rollo, "is an excellent carriage for seeing the
+prospect on <i>one</i> side of the road."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George; "but there might be the most astonishing
+spectacle in Switzerland on the other side without our knowing any thing
+about it unless we turned round expressly to see."</p>
+
+<p>So saying, Mr. George turned in his seat and looked at that side of the
+road which had been behind them. There was a field there, and a young
+girl about seventeen years old&mdash;with a very broad-brimmed straw hat upon
+her head, and wearing a very picturesque costume in other respects&mdash;was
+seen digging up the ground with a hoe.</p>
+
+<p>The blade of the hoe was long, and it seemed very heavy. The girl was
+digging up the ground by standing upon the part which she had already
+dug and striking the hoe down into the hard ground a few inches back
+from where she had struck before.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Do the women work in the fields every where in Switzerland, Henry?"
+said Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>The guide's name was Henry. He could not speak English, but he spoke
+French and German. Mr. George addressed him in French.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes, sir," said Henry; "in every part of Switzerland where I have
+been."</p>
+
+<p>"In America the women never work in the fields," said Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>"Never?" asked Henry, surprised.</p>
+
+<p>"No," said Mr. George; "at least, I never saw any."</p>
+
+<p>"What do they do, then," asked Henry, "to spend their time?"</p>
+
+<p>Mr. George laughed. He told Rollo, in English, that he did not think he
+had any satisfactory answer at hand in respect to the manner in which
+the American ladies spent their time.</p>
+
+<p>"I pity that poor girl," said Rollo, "hoeing all day on such hard
+ground. I think the men ought to do such work as that."</p>
+
+<p>"The men have harder work to do," said Mr. George; "climbing the
+mountains to hunt chamois, or driving the sheep and cows up to the upper
+pasturages in places where it would be very difficult for women to go."</p>
+
+<p>"We must turn round every now and then," said Rollo, "and see what is
+behind us, or we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span> may lose the sight of something very extraordinary."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George; "I heard of a party of English ladies who once
+went out in a char &agrave; banc to see a lake. It happened that when they came
+to the lake the road led along the shore in such a manner that the
+party, as they sat in the carriage, had their backs to the water. So
+they rode along, looking at the scenery on the land side and wondering
+why they did not come to the lake. In this manner they continued until
+they had gone entirely around the lake; and then the coachman drove them
+home. When they arrived at the hotel they were astonished to find that
+they had got home again; and they called out to the coachman to ask
+where the lake was that they had driven out to see. He told them that he
+had driven them all round it!"</p>
+
+<p>Rollo laughed heartily at this story, and Henry would probably have
+laughed too if he had understood it; but, as Mr. George related it in
+English, Henry did not comprehend one word of the narration from
+beginning to end.</p>
+
+<p>In the mean time the horse trotted rapidly onward along the valley,
+which seemed to grow narrower and narrower as they proceeded; and the
+impending precipices which here and there overhung the road became more
+and more ter<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span>rific. The L&uuml;tschine, a rapid and turbid stream, swept
+swiftly along&mdash;sometimes in full view and sometimes concealed. Now and
+then there was a bridge, or a mill, or some little hamlet of Swiss
+cottages to diversify the scene. Mr. George and Rollo observed every
+thing with great attention and interest. They met frequent parties of
+travellers returning from Grindelwald to Lauterbrunnen&mdash;some on foot,
+some on horseback, and others in carriages which were more or less
+spacious and elegant, according to the rank or wealth of the travellers
+who were journeying in them.</p>
+
+<p>At length they arrived at the fork of the valley. Here they gazed with
+astonishment and awe at the stupendous precipice which reared its
+colossal front before them and which seemed effectually to stop their
+way.</p>
+
+<p>On drawing near to it, however, it appeared that the valley divided into
+two branches at this point, as has already been explained. The road
+divided too. The branch which led to the right was the road to
+Lauterbrunnen. The one to the left Rollo supposed led to Grindelwald. To
+make it sure, he pointed to the left-hand road and said to Henry,&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"To Grindelwald?"</p>
+
+<p>"Yes, sir," said Henry, "to Grindelwald."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The scenery now became more wild than ever. The valley was narrow, and
+on each side of it were to be seen lofty precipices and vast slopes of
+mountain land&mdash;some smooth and green, and covered, though very steep,
+with flocks and herds, and others feathered with dark evergreen forests,
+or covered with ragged rocks, or pierced with frightful chasms. Here and
+there a zigzag path was seen leading from hamlet to hamlet or from peak
+to peak up the mountain, with peasants ascending or descending by them
+and bearing burdens of every form and variety on their backs. In one
+case Rollo saw a woman bringing a load of hay on her back down the
+mountain side.</p>
+
+<p>The valley, bordered thus as it was with such wild and precipitous
+mountain sides, might have had a gloomy, or at least a very sombre,
+expression, had it not been cheered and animated by the waterfalls that
+came foaming down here and there from the precipices above, and which
+seemed so bright and sparkling that they greatly enlivened the scene.
+These waterfalls were of a great variety of forms. In some cases a thin
+thread of water, like the jet from a fire engine, came slowly over the
+brink of a precipice a thousand feet in the air, and, gliding smoothly
+down for a few hundred feet, was then<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> lost entirely in vapor or spray.
+In other cases, in the depth of some deep ravine far up the mountain,
+might be seen a line of foam meandering for a short distance among the
+rocks and then disappearing. Rollo pointed to one of these, and then
+said to Mr. George,&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"Uncle, look there! There is a short waterfall half way up the mountain;
+but I cannot see where the water comes from or where it goes to."</p>
+
+<p>"No," said Mr. George. "It comes undoubtedly from over the precipice
+above, and it flows entirely down into the valley; but it only comes out
+to view for that short distance."</p>
+
+<p>"Why can't we see it all the way?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"I suppose," said Mr. George, "it may flow for the rest of the way in
+the bottom of some deep chasms, or it may possibly be that it comes
+suddenly out of the ground at the place where we see it."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Rollo. "I found a great stream coming suddenly out of the
+ground at Interlachen."</p>
+
+<p>"Where," asked Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>"Right across the river," said Rollo. "I went over there this morning."</p>
+
+<p>"How did you get over?" said Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>"I went over on a bridge," said Rollo. "I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> took a little walk up the
+road, and pretty soon I came to a bridge which led across the river. I
+went over, and then walked along the bank on the other side. There was
+only a narrow space between the river and the precipice. The ground
+sloped down from the foot of the precipice to the water. I found several
+very large springs breaking out in this ground. One of them was <i>very</i>
+large. The water that ran from it made a great stream, large enough for
+a mill. It came up right out of the ground from a great hole all full of
+stones. The water came up from among the stones."</p>
+
+<p>"And where did it go to?" asked Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>"O, it ran directly down into the river. The place was rather steep
+where it ran down, so that it made a cascade all the way."</p>
+
+<p>"I should like to have seen it," said Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Rollo; "it was very curious indeed to see a little river
+come up suddenly out of the ground from a great hole full of stones."</p>
+
+<p>Talking in this manner about what they had seen, our travellers went on
+till they came to Lauterbrunnen. They found a small village here, in the
+midst of which was a large and comfortable inn. There were a number of
+guides<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> and several carriages in the yards of this inn, and many parties
+of travellers coming and going. The principal attraction of the valley,
+however, at this part of it, is an immense waterfall, called the Fall of
+the Staubach, which was to be seen a little beyond the village, up the
+valley. This is one of the most remarkable waterfalls in all
+Switzerland. A large stream comes over the brink of a precipice nearly a
+thousand feet high, and descends in one smooth and continuous column for
+some hundreds of feet, when it gradually breaks, and finally comes down
+upon the rocks below a vast mass of foam and spray.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo and Mr. George could see this waterfall and a great many other
+smaller ones which came streaming down over the faces of the precipices,
+along the sides of the valley, as they came up in the char &agrave; banc,
+before they reached the inn.</p>
+
+<p>"I don't see how such a large river gets to the top of such a high
+hill," said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>That this question should have arisen in Rollo's mind is not surprising;
+for the top of the precipice where the Staubach came over seemed, in
+fact, the summit of a sharp ridge to any one looking up to it from the
+valley below; and Rollo did not imagine that there was any land above.
+The apparent wonder was, however, afterwards explained, when our
+travellers began<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> to ascend the mountain on the other side of the valley
+that afternoon to go up to the Wengern Alp.</p>
+
+<p>The guide drove the char &agrave; banc to the door of the inn, and Mr. George
+and Rollo got out. They went into the inn and ordered dinner.</p>
+
+<p>"We are going to see the Staubach," said Mr. George to the waiter, "and
+we will be back in half an hour."</p>
+
+<p>"Very well," said the waiter; "your dinner shall be ready."</p>
+
+<p>So Mr. George and Rollo came out of the inn again in order to go and see
+the waterfall.</p>
+
+<p>They were beset at the door by a number of young men and boys, and also
+by several little girls, some of whom wanted to sell them minerals or
+flowers which they had gathered among the rocks around the waterfall;
+and others wished to guide them to the place.</p>
+
+<p>"To the Staubach? To the Staubach?" said they. "Want a guide? Want a
+guide?"</p>
+
+<p>They said this in the German language. Mr. George understood enough of
+German to know what they meant; but he could not reply in that language.
+So he said, in French,&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"No; we do not wish any guide. We can find the way to the Staubach
+ourselves. There it is, right before our eyes."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Mr. George, while he was saying this, was taking out some small change
+from his pockets to give to the children. He gave a small coin apiece to
+them all.</p>
+
+<p>Seeing this, the boys who had wished to guide him to the Staubach became
+more clamorous than ever.</p>
+
+<p>"To the Staubach?" said they. "To the Staubach? Want a guide? Want a
+guide?"</p>
+
+<p>Mr. George paid no further attention to them; but, saying "Come, Rollo,"
+walked on.</p>
+
+<p>The would-be guides followed him a short distance, still offering their
+services; but, finding soon that Mr. George would not have any thing
+more to say to them, they gradually dropped off and went back to the inn
+to try their fortune with the next arrival.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. George and Rollo walked on along a narrow road, which was bordered
+by queer, picturesque-looking huts and cottages on either hand, with
+gardens by the sides of them, in which women and girls were hoeing or
+weeding. They met two or three parties of ladies and gentlemen returning
+from the Staubach; and presently they came to a place where, close to
+the side of the road, was a small shop, before which a party of ladies
+and gentlemen had stopped, apparently to look at something curious.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Mr. George and Rollo went to the place and found that it was a shop for
+the sale of carved toys and images such as are made in many parts of
+Switzerland to be sold to travellers for souvenirs of their tour through
+the country. There were shelves put up on the outside of the shop, each
+side of the door, and these shelves were covered with all sorts of
+curious objects carved in white or yellow fir, or pine. There were
+images of Swiss peasants with all sorts of burdens on their backs, and
+models of Swiss cottages, and needle boxes, and pin cases, and match
+boxes, and nut crackers, and groups of hunters on the rocks, or of goats
+or chamois climbing, and rulers ornamented with cameo-like carvings of
+wreaths and flowers, and with the word "Staubach" cut in ornamental
+letters.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo was greatly interested in this store of curiosities, so much so,
+in fact, that for the moment all thoughts of the Staubach were driven
+from his mind.</p>
+
+<p>"Let us buy some of these things, uncle George," said he.</p>
+
+<p>"And carry them over the Wengern Alp?" said Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Rollo. "They won't be very heavy. We can put them in the
+carpet bag."</p>
+
+<p>"Well," said Mr. George, "you may buy one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> or two specimens if you wish,
+but not many; for the guide has got the carpet bag to carry, and we must
+not make it very heavy."</p>
+
+<p>"Or we can send them in the carriage round to Grindelwald," said Rollo,
+"and not have to carry them at all."</p>
+
+<p>"So we can," said Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo accordingly bought two Swiss cottages, very small ones, and a nut
+cracker. The nut cracker was shaped like a man's fist, with a hole in
+the middle of it to put the nut in. Then there was a handle, the end of
+which, when the handle was turned, was forced into the hollow of the
+fist by means of a screw cut in the wood, and this would crack the nut.</p>
+
+<p>While Rollo was paying for his toys he felt a small hand taking hold of
+his own, and heard a voice say, in English,&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"How do you do?"</p>
+
+<p>The English "How do you do?" is a strange sound to be heard in these
+remote Swiss valleys.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo turned round and saw a boy look up to him with a smile, saying
+again at the same time,&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"How do you do?"</p>
+
+<p>In a moment Rollo recognized the boy whom he had seen at Basle in the
+court yard of the diligence office while he had been waiting there for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span>
+the horses to be harnessed. His sister Lottie was standing near; and
+she, as well as her brother, appeared to be much pleased at seeing Rollo
+again. Rollo had a few minutes' conversation with his young friends, and
+then they separated, as Rollo went on with his uncle to see the
+waterfall; while they, having already been with their father and mother
+to see it, went back to the inn.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. George had recommended to Rollo not to buy too many specimens of the
+carving, not only on account of the difficulty of transporting them, but
+also because he thought that they would probably find a great many other
+opportunities to purchase such things before they had finished their
+rambles in Switzerland. He was quite right in this supposition. In fact,
+Rollo passed three more stands for selling such things on the way to the
+Staubach.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. George and Rollo continued their walk along the road, looking up
+constantly at the colossal column of water before them, which seemed to
+grow larger and higher the nearer they drew to it. At length they
+reached the part of the road which was directly opposite to it. Here
+there was a path which turned off from the road and led up through the
+pasture towards the foot of the fall. The entrance to this path was
+beset by children who had little boxes full<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> of crystals and other
+shining minerals which they wished to sell to visitors for souvenirs of
+the place.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. George and Rollo turned into this path and attempted to advance
+towards the foot of the fall; but they soon found themselves stopped by
+the spray. In fact, the whole region all around the foot of the fall,
+for a great distance, was so full of mist and driving spray that going
+into it was like going into a rain storm. Mr. George and Rollo soon
+found that they were getting thoroughly wet and that it would not do to
+go any farther.</p>
+
+<p>"And so," said Rollo, in a disappointed tone, "though we have taken the
+pains to come all this way to see the waterfall, we can't get near
+enough to see it after all."</p>
+
+<p>Mr. George laughed.</p>
+
+<p>"I wish we had brought an umbrella," said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"An umbrella would not have done much good," replied Mr. George. "The
+wind whirls about so much that it would drive the spray upon us
+whichever way we should turn the umbrella."</p>
+
+<p>"The path goes on a great deal nearer," said Rollo. "Somebody must go
+there, at any rate, without minding the spray."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Perhaps," said Mr. George, "when the wind is in some other quarter, it
+may blow the spray away, so that people can go nearer the foot of the
+fall without getting wet. At any rate, it is plain that we cannot go any
+nearer now."</p>
+
+<p>Saying these words, Mr. George led the way back towards the road, and
+Rollo followed him.</p>
+
+<p>After retreating far enough to get again into a dry atmosphere, they
+stopped and looked upward at the fall. It seemed an immense cataract
+coming down out of the sky. After gazing at the stupendous spectacle
+till their wonder and admiration were in some measure satisfied, they
+returned to the inn, where they found an excellent dinner all ready for
+them. While they were thus employed in eating their dinner, Henry was
+engaged in eating his, with at least as good an appetite, in company
+with the other guides, in the servants' hall.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Chapter_IX" id="Chapter_IX"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter IX.</span></h2>
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">The Wengern Alp.</span></h3>
+
+
+<p>It was about twelve o'clock when Rollo and Mr. George, having finished
+their dinner, came out into the yard of the inn for the purpose of
+setting out for the ascent of the mountain.</p>
+
+<p>"Well, Rollo," said Mr. George, "now for a a scramble."</p>
+
+<p>Thus far the road which the young gentlemen had travelled since leaving
+Interlachen had been quite level and smooth, its course having been
+along the bottom of the valley, which was itself quite level, though
+shut in on both sides by precipitous mountains. Now they were to leave
+the valley and ascend one of these mountain sides by means of certain
+zigzag paths which had been made with great labor upon them, to enable
+the peasants to ascend and descend in going to and from their hamlets
+and pasturages.</p>
+
+<p>The paths, though very steep and very torturous, are smooth enough for
+horses to go up, though the peasants themselves very seldom use<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span> horses.
+A horse would eat as much grass, perhaps, as two cows. They prefer,
+therefore, to have the cows, and do without the horse. And so every
+thing which they wish to transport up and down the mountain they carry
+on their backs.</p>
+
+<p>There were various other guides in the yard of the inn besides Henry:
+some were preparing apparently for the ascent of the mountain with other
+parties; others were bringing up carriages for people who were going to
+return to Interlachen. Henry, when he saw Mr. George and Rollo coming
+out, asked them if they were ready.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George. "Bring the horse. You shall ride first, Rollo."</p>
+
+<p>Mr. George was to have but one horse for himself and Rollo, and they
+were to ride it by turns. He thought that both he himself and Rollo
+would be able to walk half way up the mountain, and, by having one horse
+between them, each could ride half the way.</p>
+
+<p>Besides, it is less fatiguing, when you have a long and steep ascent to
+make, to walk some portion of the way rather than to be on horseback all
+the time.</p>
+
+<p>There was another consideration which influenced Mr. George. Every
+additional horse<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> which should be required for the excursion would cost
+about two dollars a day, including the guide to take care of him; and,
+as Mr. George expected to spend at least two days on the excursion, it
+would cost four dollars more to take two horses than to take only one.</p>
+
+<p>"And I think," said Mr. George to Rollo, after having made this
+calculation, "we had better save that money, and have it to buy
+beautiful colored engravings of Swiss scenery with when we get to
+Geneva."</p>
+
+<p>"I think so too," said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>So it was concluded to take but one horse with them, on the
+understanding that each of the travellers was to walk half the way.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo accordingly, when the horse was brought to the door, climbed up
+upon his back with the guide's assistance, and, after adjusting his feet
+to the stirrup, prepared to set out on the ascent. His heart was
+bounding with excitement and delight.</p>
+
+<p>When all was ready the party moved on, Rollo on the horse and Mr. George
+and Henry walking along by his side. They proceeded a short distance
+along the road, and then turned into a path which led towards the side
+of the valley opposite to the Staubach. They soon reached the foot of
+the slope, and then they began to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> ascend. The path grew more and more
+steep as they proceeded, until at length it became very precipitous; and
+in some places the horse was obliged to scramble up, as it were, as if
+he were going up stairs. Rollo clung to his seat manfully in all these
+places; and he would have been sometimes afraid were it not that, in
+every case where there could be even any apparent danger, Henry would
+come to his side and keep by him, ready to render assistance at a
+moment's notice whenever any should be needed. In this way the party
+moved slowly on up the face of the mountain, making many short turns and
+windings among the rocks and going back and forth in zigzags on the
+green declivities. Sometimes for a few minutes they would be lost in a
+grove of firs, or pines; then they would come out upon some rounded
+promontory of grass land or projecting peak of rocks; and a few minutes
+afterwards they would move along smoothly for a time upon a level, with
+a steep acclivity, rough with rocks and precipices on one side, and an
+abrupt descent on the other down which a stone would have rolled a
+thousand feet into the valley below.</p>
+
+<p>Of course the view of the valley became more commanding and more
+striking the higher they ascended. Rollo wished at every turn to stop<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span>
+and look at it. He did stop sometimes, the guide saying that it was
+necessary to do so in order to let the horse get his breath a little;
+for the toil for such an animal of getting up so steep an ascent was
+very severe. Rollo would have stopped oftener; but he did not like to be
+left behind by his uncle George, who, being active and agile, mounted
+very rapidly. Mr. George would often shorten his road very much by
+climbing directly up the rocks from one turn of the road to the other;
+while the horse, with Rollo on his back, was compelled to go round by
+the zigzag.</p>
+
+<p>At last, after they had been ascending for about half an hour, Mr.
+George stopped, at a place where there was a smooth stone for a seat by
+the side of the path, to wait for Rollo to come up; and, when Rollo
+came, Mr. George took him off the horse to let him rest a little. The
+view of the valley from this point was very grand and imposing. Rollo
+could look down into it as you could look into the bed of a brook in the
+country, standing upon the top of the bank on one side. The village, the
+inn, the little cottages along the roadside, the river, the bridges, and
+a thousand other objects, all of liliputian size, were to be seen below;
+while on the farther side the streaming Staubach was in full<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> view,
+pouring over the brink of the precipice and falling in a dense mass of
+spray on the rocks at the foot of them.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo could understand now, too, where the fall of the Staubach came
+from; for above the brink of the precipice, where the water came over,
+there was now to be seen a vast expanse of mountain country, rising
+steep, but not precipitously, far above the summit of the precipice, and
+of course receding as it ascended, so as not to be seen from the valley
+below. From the elevation, however, to which Rollo had now attained, the
+whole of this vast region was in view. It was covered with forests,
+pasturages, chalets, and scattered hamlets; and in the valleys, long,
+silvery lines of water were to be seen glittering in the sun and
+twisting and twining down in foaming cascades to the brink of the
+precipice, where, plunging over, they formed the cataracts which had
+been seen in the valley below. The Staubach was the largest of these
+falls; and the stream which produced it could now be traced for many
+miles as it came dancing along in its shining path down among the
+ravines of the mountains.</p>
+
+<p>"I see now what makes the fall of the Staubach," said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"I should like to be on the brink of the precipice where it falls over,"
+said Rollo, "and look down."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George; "so should I. I don't think that we could get
+near enough actually to look down, but we could get near enough to see
+the water where it begins to take the plunge."</p>
+
+<p>After resting a suitable time at this place and greatly admiring and
+enjoying the view, our party set out again. Rollo proposed that his
+uncle should ride now a little way and let him walk; but Mr. George
+preferred that Rollo should mount again. There was still nearly another
+hour's hard climbing to do and a long and pretty difficult walk of
+several miles beyond it, and Mr. George was very desirous of saving
+Rollo's strength. It might perhaps be supposed, from the blunt manner in
+which Mr. George often threw the responsibility upon Rollo when he was
+placed in difficult emergencies and left him to act for himself, that he
+did not think or care much for his nephew's comfort or happiness. But
+this was by no means the case. Mr. George was very fond of Rollo indeed.
+If he had not been fond of him he would not have wished to have him for
+his companion on his tour. He was very careful, too, never to expose<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span>
+Rollo to any real hardship or suffering; and his apparently blunt
+manner, in throwing responsibilities upon the boy, only amused him by
+making it appear that his uncle George considered him almost a man.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. George, knowing that the first part of the way from Lauterbrunnen to
+the Wengern Alp was by far the most steep and difficult, had accordingly
+arranged it in his own mind that Rollo should ride until this steep part
+had been surmounted.</p>
+
+<p>"You may mount again now, Rollo," said he. "I will walk a little longer
+and take my turn in riding a little farther on."</p>
+
+<p>So Rollo mounted; and there was now another hour of steep climbing. The
+zigzags were sometimes sharp and short and at others long and winding;
+but the way was always picturesque and the views became more and more
+grand and imposing the higher the party ascended. At one time, when
+Rollo had stopped a moment to let his horse breathe, he saw at a turn of
+the path a few zigzags below him a little girl coming up, with a basket
+on her back.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo pointed to her and asked the guide, in French, who that girl was.</p>
+
+<p>Henry said he did not know.</p>
+
+<p>Henry, foolishly enough, supposed that Rollo<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span> meant to ask what the
+girl's name was; and so he said that he did not know. But this was not
+what Rollo meant at all. He had no particular desire in asking the
+question to learn the child's name. What he wished to know was, what,
+according to the customs of the country, would be the probable province
+and function of such a sort of girl as that, coming alone up the
+mountain in that way with a burden on her back. Henry, if he had
+understood the real intent and meaning of the question, could easily
+have answered it. The girl lived in a little hamlet of shepherds' huts
+farther up the mountain, and had been down into the village to buy
+something for her father and mother; and she was now coming home with
+her purchases in the basket on her back. All this Henry knew very well;
+but, when Rollo asked who the girl was, Henry thought he meant to ask
+who she herself was individually; and so, as he did not know her
+personally, he could not tell.</p>
+
+<p>Travellers often get disappointed in this way in asking questions of the
+natives of the country in which they are travelling. The people do not
+understand the nature and bearing of the question, and they themselves
+are not familiar enough with the language to explain what they do mean.</p>
+
+<p>The guide stood for a minute or two looking<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> intently at the girl as she
+slowly ascended the path, especially when she passed the angles of the
+zigzag, for there she turned sometimes in such a manner as to show her
+face more plainly.</p>
+
+<p>"No," said he, at length; "I do not know her. I never saw her before.
+But I'll ask her who she is when she comes up."</p>
+
+<p>"Uncle George!" said Rollo, calling out very loudly to his uncle, who
+was at some distance above.</p>
+
+<p>"Ay, ay," said Mr. George, responding.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo attempted to look up to see where his uncle was standing; but in
+doing this he had to throw his head back so far as to bring a fear
+suddenly over him of falling from his horse. So he desisted, and
+continued his conversation without attempting to look.</p>
+
+<p>"Here is a girl coming up the mountain with a basket on her back. Come
+down and see her."</p>
+
+<p>"Come up here," said Mr. George, "and we will wait till she comes."</p>
+
+<p>So Rollo chirruped to his horse and started along again. In a few
+minutes he reached the place where his uncle George was standing, and
+there they all waited till the little girl came up.</p>
+
+<p>"Good morning," said the girl, as soon as she came near enough to be
+heard. She spoke the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> words in the German language and with a very
+pleasant smile upon her face.</p>
+
+<p>The peasants in Switzerland, when they meet strangers in ascending or
+descending the mountains, always accost them pleasantly and wish them
+good morning or good evening. In most other countries, strangers meeting
+each other on the road pass in silence. Perhaps it is the loneliness and
+solitude of the country and the sense of danger and awe that the
+stupendous mountains inspire that incline people to be more pleased when
+they meet each other in Switzerland, even if they are strangers, than in
+the more cheerful and smiling regions of France and England.</p>
+
+<p>The guide said something to the girl, but Rollo could not understand
+what it was, for he spoke, and the answer was returned, in German.</p>
+
+<p>"She says her name is Ninette," said Henry.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo's attention was immediately attracted to the form of the basket
+which Ninette wore and to the manner in which it was fastened to her
+back. The basket was comparatively small at the bottom, being about as
+wide as the waist of the girl; but it grew larger towards the top, where
+it opened as wide as the girl's shoulders&mdash;being shaped in this respect
+in conformity with the shape of the back on which it was to be borne.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/148.jpg" width="600" height="578" alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE MOUNTAIN GIRL.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The side of the basket, too, which lay against the back was flat, so as
+to fit to it exactly. The outer side was rounded. It was open at the
+top.</p>
+
+<p>The basket was secured to its place upon the child's back and shoulders
+by means of two flat strips of wood, which were fastened at the upper
+ends of them to the back of the basket near the top, and which came
+round over the shoulders in front, and then, passing under the arms,
+were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span> fastened at the lower ends to the basket near the bottom. The
+basket was thus supported in its place and carried by means of the
+pressure of these straps upon the shoulders.</p>
+
+<p>"Uncle George," said Rollo, "I should like to have such a basket as that
+and such a pair of straps to carry it by."</p>
+
+<p>"What would you do with it," asked Mr. George, "if you had it?"</p>
+
+<p>"Why, it would be very convenient," said Rollo, "in America, when I went
+a-raspberrying. You see, if I had such a basket as that, I could bring
+my berries home on my back, and so have my hands free."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George, "that would be convenient."</p>
+
+<p>"Besides," said Rollo, "it would be a curiosity."</p>
+
+<p>"That's true," replied Mr. George; "but it would be very difficult to
+carry so bulky a thing home."</p>
+
+<p>After some further conversation it was concluded not to buy the basket,
+but to ask the girl if she would be willing to sell the straps, or bows,
+that it was fastened with. These straps were really quite curious. They
+were made of some very hard and smooth-grained wood, and were nicely
+carved and bent so as to fit to the girl's shoulders quite precisely.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Accordingly Mr. George, speaking in French, requested Henry to ask the
+girl whether she would be willing to sell the straps. Henry immediately
+addressed the girl in the German language, and after talking with her a
+few minutes he turned again to Mr. George and Rollo and said that the
+girl would rather not sell them herself, as they belonged to her father,
+who lived about half a mile farther up the mountain. But she was sure
+her father would sell them if they would stop at his cottage as they
+went by. He would either sell them that pair, she said, or a new pair;
+for he made such things himself, and he had two or three new pairs in
+his cottage.</p>
+
+<p>"Very well," said Mr. George; "let us go on.</p>
+
+<p>"Which would you rather have," said Mr. George to Rollo, as they resumed
+their march, "this pair, or some new ones?"</p>
+
+<p>"I would rather have this pair," said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"They are somewhat soiled and worn," said Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Rollo; "but they are good and strong; and as soon as I get
+home I shall rub them all off clean with sand paper and then have them
+varnished, so as to make them look very bright and nice; and then I
+shall keep them for a curiosity. I would rather have this pair, for then
+I can tell people that I bought them actually<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> off the shoulders of a
+little girl who was carrying a burden with them up the Alps."</p>
+
+<p>In due time the party reached the little hamlet where Ninette lived. The
+hamlet consisted of a scattered group of cabins and cow houses on a
+shelving green more than a thousand feet above the valley. The girl led
+the party to the door of her father's hut; and there, through the medium
+of Henry as interpreter, they purchased the two bows for a very small
+sum of money. They also bought a drink of excellent milk for the whole
+party of Ninette's mother and then resumed their journey.</p>
+
+<p>As they went on they obtained from time to time very grand and extended
+views of the surrounding mountains. Whether they turned their eyes above
+or below them, the prospect was equally wonderful. In the latter case
+they looked down on distant villages; some clinging to the hillsides,
+others nestling in the valleys, and others still perched, like the one
+where Ninette lived, on shelving slopes of green pasture land, which
+terminated at a short distance from the dwellings on the brink of the
+most frightful precipices. Above were towering forests and verdant
+slopes of land, dotted with chalets or broken here and there by the gray
+rocks which appeared among them. Higher<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span> still were lofty crags, with
+little sunny nooks among them&mdash;the dizzy pasturages of the chamois; and
+above these immense fields of ice and snow, which pierced the sky with
+the glittering peaks and summits in which they terminated. Mr. George
+and Rollo paused frequently, as they continued their journey, to gaze
+around them upon these stupendous scenes.</p>
+
+<p>At length, when the steepest part of the ascent had been accomplished,
+Mr. George said that he was tired of climbing, and proposed that Rollo
+should dismount and take his turn in walking.</p>
+
+<p>"If you were a lady," said Mr. George, "I would let you ride all the
+way. But you are strong and capable, and as well able to walk as I
+am&mdash;better, I suppose, in fact; so you may as well take your turn."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Rollo; "I should like it. I am tired of riding. I would
+rather walk than not."</p>
+
+<p>So Henry assisted Rollo to dismount, and then adjusted the stirrups to
+Mr. George's use, and Mr. George mounted into the saddle.</p>
+
+<p>"How glad I am to come to the end of my walking," said Mr. George, "and
+to get upon a horse!"</p>
+
+<p>"How glad I am to come to the end of my riding," said Rollo, "and to get
+upon my feet!"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Thus both of the travellers seemed pleased with the change. The road now
+became far more easy to be travelled than before. The steepest part of
+the ascent had been surmounted, and for the remainder of the distance
+the path followed a meandering way over undulating land, which, though
+not steep, was continually ascending. Here and there herds of cattle
+were seen grazing; and there were scattered huts, and sometimes little
+hamlets, where the peasants lived in the summer, to tend their cows and
+make butter and cheese from their milk. In the fall of the year they
+drive the cattle down again to the lower valleys; for these high
+pasturages, though green and sunny in the summer and affording an
+abundance of sweet and nutritious grass for the sheep and cows that feed
+upon them, are buried deep in snows, and are abandoned to the mercy of
+the most furious tempests and storms during all the winter portion of
+the year. Our travellers passed many scattered forests, some of which
+were seen clinging to the mountain sides, at a vast elevation above
+them. In others men were at work felling trees or cutting up the wood.
+Rollo stopped at one of these places and procured a small billet of the
+Alpine wood, as large as he could conveniently carry in his pocket,
+intending to have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span> something made from it when he should get home to
+America. The woodman, at Henry's request, cut out this billet of wood
+for Rollo, making it of the size which Rollo indicated to him by a
+gesture with his finger.</p>
+
+<p>At one time the party met a company of peasant girls coming down from
+the mountain. They came into the path by which our travellers were
+ascending from a side path which seemed to lead up a secluded glen.
+These girls came dancing gayly along with bouquets of flowers in their
+hands and garlands in their hair. They looked bright and blooming, and
+seemed very contented and happy.</p>
+
+<p>They bowed very politely to Mr. George and to Rollo as they passed.</p>
+
+<p>"<i>Guten abend</i>," said they.</p>
+
+<p>These are the German words for "Good evening."<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a></p>
+
+<p>"<i>Guten abend</i>," said both Mr. George and Rollo in reply.</p>
+
+<p>The girls thus passed by and went on their way down the mountain.</p>
+
+<p>"Where have they been?" asked Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>"They have been at work gathering up the small stones from the
+pasturages, I suppose," said<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span> Henry. "Companies of girls go out for that
+a great deal."</p>
+
+<p>After getting upon the horse, Mr. George took care to keep <i>behind</i>
+Rollo and the guide. He knew very well that if he were to go on in
+advance Rollo would exert himself more than he otherwise would do, under
+the influence of a sort of feeling that he ought to try to keep up.
+While Rollo was on the horse himself, having the guide with him too, Mr.
+George knew that there was no danger from this source, as any one who is
+on horseback or in a carriage never has the feeling of being left behind
+when a companion who is on foot by chance gets before him. Consequently,
+while they were coming up the steep part of the mountain, Mr. George
+went on as fast as he pleased, leaving Rollo and Henry to come on at
+their leisure. But now his kind consideration for Rollo induced him to
+keep carefully behind.</p>
+
+<p>"Now, Rollo," said he, "you and Henry may go on just as fast or just as
+slow as you please, without paying any regard to me. I shall follow
+along at my leisure."</p>
+
+<p>Thus Rollo, seeing that Mr. George was behind, went on very leisurely,
+and enjoyed his walk and his talk with Henry very much.</p>
+
+<p>"Did you ever study English, Henry?" said Rollo.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"No," said Henry; "but I wish I could speak English, very much."</p>
+
+<p>"Why?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Because there are so many English people coming here that I have to
+guide up the mountains."</p>
+
+<p>"Well," said Rollo, "you can begin now. I will teach you."</p>
+
+<p>So he began to teach the guide to say "How do you do?" in English.</p>
+
+<p>This conversation between Rollo and Henry was in French. Rollo had
+studied French a great deal by the help of books when he was at home,
+and he had taken so much pains to improve by practice since he had been
+in France and Switzerland that he could now get along in a short and
+simple conversation very well.</p>
+
+<p>While our party had been coming up the mountain, the weather, though
+perfectly clear and serene in the morning, had become somewhat overcast.
+Misty clouds were to be seen here and there floating along the sides or
+resting on the summits of the mountains. At length, while Rollo was in
+the midst of the English lesson which he was giving to the guide, his
+attention was arrested, just as they were emerging from the border of a
+little thicket of stunted evergreens, by what seemed to be a prolonged<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span>
+clap of thunder. It came apparently out of a mass of clouds and vapor
+which Rollo saw moving majestically in the southern sky.</p>
+
+<p>"Thunder!" exclaimed Rollo, looking alarmed. "There's thunder!"</p>
+
+<p>"No," said Henry; "an avalanche."</p>
+
+<p>The sound rolled and reverberated in the sky for a considerable time
+like a prolonged peal of thunder. Rollo thought that Henry must be
+mistaken in supposing it an avalanche.</p>
+
+<p>At this moment Rollo, looking round, saw Mr. George coming up, on his
+horse, at a turn of the path a little way behind them.</p>
+
+<p>"Henry," said Mr. George, "there is a thunder shower coming up; we must
+hasten on."</p>
+
+<p>"No," said Henry; "that was an avalanche."</p>
+
+<p>"An avalanche?" exclaimed Mr. George. "Why, the sound came out of the
+middle of the sky."</p>
+
+<p>"It was an avalanche," said the guide, "from the Jungfrau. See!" he
+added, pointing up into the sky.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. George and Rollo both looked in the direction where Henry pointed,
+and there they saw a vast rocky precipice peering out through a break in
+the clouds high up in the sky. An immense snow bank was reposing upon
+its summit. The glittering whiteness of this snow con<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span>trasted strongly
+with the sombre gray of the clouds through which, as through an opening
+in a curtain, it was seen.</p>
+
+<p>Presently another break in the clouds, and then another, occurred; at
+each of which towering rocks or great perpendicular walls of glittering
+ice and snow came into view.</p>
+
+<p>"The Jungfrau," said the guide.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. George and Rollo gazed at this spectacle for some minutes in
+silence, when at length Rollo said,&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"Why, uncle George! the sky is all full of rocks and ice!"</p>
+
+<p>"It is indeed!" said Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>It was rather fortunate than otherwise that the landscape was obscured
+with clouds when Mr. George and Rollo first came into the vicinity of
+the Jungfrau, as the astonishing spectacle of rocks and precipices and
+immense accumulations of snow and ice, breaking out as it were through
+the clouds all over the sky, was in some respects more impressive than
+the full and unobstructed view of the whole mountain would have been.</p>
+
+<p>"I wish the clouds would clear away," said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George. "I should like to see the whole side of the
+mountain very much."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Here another long and heavy peal, like thunder, began to be heard. Mr.
+George stopped his horse to listen. Rollo and Henry stopped too. The
+sound seemed to commence high up among the clouds. The echoes and
+reverberations were reflected from the rocks and precipices all around
+it; but the peal seemed slowly and gradually to descend towards the
+horizon; and finally, after the lapse of two or three minutes, it
+entirely ceased.</p>
+
+<p>The travellers paused a moment after the sound ceased and continued to
+listen. When they found that all was still they began to move on again.</p>
+
+<p>"I wish I could have seen that avalanche," said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George. "I hope the clouds will clear away by the time
+we get to the inn."</p>
+
+<p>It was just about sunset when the party reached the inn. Rollo was
+beginning to get a little tired, though the excitement of the excursion
+and the effect produced on his mind by the strange aspect of every thing
+around him inspired him with so much animation and strength that he held
+on in his walk very well indeed. It is true that a great portion of the
+mountain scenery around him was concealed from view by the clouds; but
+there was something in the appearance of the rocks, in the character of
+the vegetation, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> especially in the aspect and expression of the
+patches of snow which were to be seen here and there in nooks and
+corners near the path,&mdash;the remains of the vast accumulations of the
+preceding winter which the sun had not yet dispelled,&mdash;that impressed
+Rollo continually with a sentiment of wonder and awe, and led him to
+feel that he had attained to a vast elevation, and that he was walking,
+as he really was, among the clouds.</p>
+
+<p>The inn, when the party first came in sight of it, appeared more like a
+log cabin in America than like a well-known and much-frequented European
+hotel. It stood on a very small plot of ground, which formed a sort of
+projection on a steep mountain side, facing the Jungfrau. In front of
+the hotel the land descended very rapidly for a considerable distance.
+The descent terminated at last on the brink of an enormous ravine which
+separated the base of the Wengern Alp from that of the Jungfrau. Behind
+the house the land rose in a broad, green slope, dotted with Alpine
+flowers and terminating in a smooth, rounded summit far above. The house
+itself seemed small, and was rudely constructed. There was a sort of
+piazza in front of it, with a bench and a table before it.</p>
+
+<p>"That is where the people sit, I suppose," said Mr. George, "in pleasant
+weather to see the Jungfrau."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"For the Jungfrau must be over there," said Mr. George, pointing among
+the clouds in the southern sky.</p>
+
+<p>All doubt about the position of the mountain was removed at the instant
+that Mr. George had spoken these words, by another avalanche, which just
+at that moment commenced its fall. They all stopped to listen. The sound
+was greatly prolonged, sometimes roaring continuously for a time, like a
+cataract, and then rumbling and crashing like a peal of thunder.</p>
+
+<p>"What a pity that the clouds are in the way," said Rollo, "so that we
+can't see! Do you think it will clear up before we go away?"</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George. "I am very sure it will; for I am determined not
+to go away till it does clear up."</p>
+
+<p>There were one or two buildings attached to the inn which served
+apparently as barns and sheds. The door of entrance was round in a
+corner formed by the connection of one of these buildings with the
+house. Henry led the horse up to this door, and Mr. George dismounted.
+The guide led the horse away, and Rollo and Mr. George went into the
+house. A young and very blooming Swiss girl received them in the hall
+and opened a door for them which led to the public sitting room.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The sitting room was a large apartment, which extended along the whole
+front of the house. The windows, of course, looked out towards the
+Jungfrau. There was a long table in the middle of the room, and one or
+two smaller ones in the back corners. At these tables two or three
+parties were seated, eating their dinners. In one of the front corners
+was a fireplace, with a small fire, made of pine wood, burning on the
+hearth. A young lady was sitting near this fire, reading. Another was at
+a small table near it, writing in her journal. Around the walls of the
+room were a great many engravings and colored lithographs of Swiss
+scenery; among them were several views of the Jungfrau. On the whole,
+the room, though perfectly plain and even rude in all its furniture and
+appointments, had a very comfortable and attractive appearance.</p>
+
+<p>"What a snug and pleasant-looking place!" said Rollo, whispering to Mr.
+George as they went in.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George. "It is just exactly such a place as I wished to
+find."</p>
+
+<p>Mr. George and Rollo were both of them tired and hungry. They first
+called for rooms. The maid took them up stairs and gave them two small
+rooms next each other. The rooms were, in fact, <i>very</i> small. The
+furniture in them, too<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span> was of the plainest description; but every thing
+was neat and comfortable, and the aspect of the interior of them was, on
+the whole, quite attractive.</p>
+
+<p>In about fifteen minutes Rollo knocked at Mr. George's door and asked if
+he was ready to go down.</p>
+
+<p>"Not quite," said Mr. George; "but I wish that you would go down and
+order dinner."</p>
+
+<p>So Rollo went down again into the public room and asked the maid if she
+could get them some dinner.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said the maid. "What would you like to have?"</p>
+
+<p>Rollo was considerate enough to know that there could be very little to
+eat in the house except what had been brought up in a very toilsome and
+difficult manner, from the valleys below, by the zigzag paths which he
+and his uncle had been climbing. So he said in reply,&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"Whatever you please. It is not important to us."</p>
+
+<p>The maid then told him what they had in the house; and Rollo, selecting
+from these things, ordered what he thought would make an excellent
+dinner. The dinner, in fact, when it came to the table, proved to be a
+very excellent one indeed. It consisted of broiled chicken, some<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> most
+excellent fried potatoes, eggs, fresh and very nice bread, and some
+honey. For drink, they had at first water; and at the end of the meal
+some French coffee, which, being diluted with boiled milk that was very
+rich and sweet, was truly delicious.</p>
+
+<p>"I have not had so good a dinner," said Mr. George, "since I have been
+in Europe."</p>
+
+<p>"No," said Rollo; "nor I."</p>
+
+<p>"It is owing in part, I suppose, to the appetite we have got in climbing
+up the mountain," said Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>Just as the young gentlemen had finished their dinner and were about to
+rise from the table, their attention was attracted by an exclamation of
+delight which came from one of the young ladies who were sitting at the
+fireplace when Mr. George and Rollo came in.</p>
+
+<p>"O Emma," said she, "come here!"</p>
+
+<p>Mr. George and Rollo looked up, and they saw that the young lady whose
+voice they had heard was standing at the window. Emma rose from her seat
+and went to the window in answer to the call. Mr. George and Rollo
+looked out, too, at another window. They saw a spectacle which filled
+them with astonishment.</p>
+
+<p>"It is clearing away," said Rollo. "Let us go out in front of the house
+and look."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George; "we will."</p>
+
+<p>So they both left their seats, and, putting on their caps, they went
+out. As soon as they reached the platform where the bench and the table
+were standing they gazed on the scene which was presented to their view
+with wonder and delight.</p>
+
+<p>It was, indeed, clearing away. The clouds were "lifting" from the
+mountains; and the sun, which had been for some hours obscured, was
+breaking forth in the west and illuminating the whole landscape with his
+setting beams. Opposite to where Mr. George and Rollo stood, across the
+valley, they could see the whole mighty mass of the Jungfrau coming into
+view beneath the edge of the cloudy curtain which was slowly rising.</p>
+
+<p>The lower portion of the mountain was an immense precipice, the foot of
+which was hidden from view in the great chasm, or ravine, which
+separated the Jungfrau from the Wengern Alp. Above this were rocks and
+great sloping fields of snow formed from avalanches which had fallen
+down from above. Still higher, there were brought to view vast fields of
+ice and snow, with masses of rock breaking out here and there among
+them, some in the form of precipices and crags, and others shooting up
+in jagged pinna<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span>cles and peaks, rising to dizzy heights, to the summits
+of which nothing but the condor or the eagle could ever attain. Still
+higher were precipices of blue and pellucid ice, and boundless fields of
+glittering snow, and immense drifts, piled one above the other in vast
+volumes, and overhanging the cliffs as if just ready to fall.</p>
+
+<p>In a short time the clouds rose so as to clear the summit of the
+mountain; and then the whole mighty mass was seen revealed fully to
+view, glittering in the sunbeams and filling half the sky.</p>
+
+<p>The other guests of the inn came out upon the platform while Rollo and
+Mr. George were there, having wrapped themselves previously in their
+coats and shawls, as the evening air was cool. Some other parties of
+travellers came, too, winding their way slowly up the same pathway where
+Mr. George and Rollo had come. Mr. George and Rollo paid very little
+attention to these new comers, their minds being wholly occupied by the
+mountain.</p>
+
+<p>In a very short time after the face of the Jungfrau came fully into
+view, the attention of all the company that were looking at the scene
+was arrested by the commencement of another peal of the same thundering
+sound that Mr. George and Rollo had heard with so much won<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span>der in coming
+up the mountain. A great many exclamations immediately broke out from
+the party.</p>
+
+<p>"There! hark! look!" said they. "An avalanche! An avalanche!"</p>
+
+<p>The sound was loud and almost precisely like thunder. Every one looked
+in the direction from which it proceeded. There they soon saw, half way
+up the mountain, a stream of snow, like a cataract, creeping slowly over
+the brink of a precipice, and falling in a continued torrent upon the
+rocks below. From this place they could see it slowly creeping down the
+long slope towards another precipice, and where, when it reached the
+brink, it fell over in another cataract, producing another long peal of
+thunder, which, being repeated by the echoes of the mountains and rocks
+around, filled the whole heavens with its rolling reverberations. In
+this manner the mass of ice and snow went down slope after slope and
+over precipice after precipice, till at length it made its final plunge
+into the great chasm at the foot of the mountain and disappeared from
+view.</p>
+
+<p>In the course of an hour several other avalanches were heard and seen;
+and when at length it grew too dark to see them any longer, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span>
+thundering roar of them was heard from time to time all the night long.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo, however, was so tired that, though he went to bed quite early, he
+did not hear the avalanches or any thing else until Mr. George called
+him the next morning.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Chapter_X" id="Chapter_X"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter X.</span></h2>
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Going down the Mountain.</span></h3>
+
+
+<p>Mr. George and Rollo met with various adventures and incidents in going
+down the next day to Grindelwald which are quite characteristic of
+mountain travelling in Switzerland.</p>
+
+<p>They did not set out very early in the morning, as Mr. George wished to
+stay as long as possible to gaze on the face of the Jungfrau and watch
+the avalanches.</p>
+
+<p>"Rollo," said he, as they were standing together in front of the hotel
+after breakfast, "how would you like to go up with me to the top of that
+hill?"</p>
+
+<p>So saying, Mr. George pointed to the great rounded summit which was seen
+rising behind the hotel.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Rollo; "I should like to go very much indeed."</p>
+
+<p>"Very well," said Mr. George; "we will go. But first let me get my
+pressing book to put some flowers in, in case we find any."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Mr. George's pressing book was a contrivance which he had invented for
+the more convenient desiccation of such flowers as he might gather in
+his travels and wish to carry home with him and preserve, either for
+botanical specimens or as souvenirs for his friends. It was made by
+taking out all the leaves of a small book and replacing them with an
+equal number of loose leaves, made for the purpose, of blotting paper,
+and trimmed to the right size. Such small flowers as he might gather in
+the various places that he visited could be much more conveniently
+pressed and preserved between these loose leaves of blotting paper than
+between the leaves of an ordinary book.<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a></p>
+
+<p>So Mr. George, taking his pressing book in his hand, led the way; and
+Rollo following him, they attempted to ascend the hill behind the inn.
+They found the ascent, however, extremely steep and difficult. There
+were no rocks and no roughnesses of any kind in the way. It was merely a
+grassy slope like the steep face of a terrace; but it was so steep that,
+after Mr. George and Rollo had scrambled up two or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span> three hundred feet,
+it made Rollo almost dizzy to look down; and he began to cling to the
+grass and to feel afraid.</p>
+
+<p>"Rollo," said Mr. George, "I am almost afraid to climb up here any
+higher. Do you feel afraid?"</p>
+
+<p>"No, sir," said Rollo, endeavoring at the same time to reassure himself.
+"No, sir; I am not much afraid."</p>
+
+<p>"Let us stop a few minutes to rest and look at the mountain," said Mr.
+George.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. George knew very well that there was no real danger; for the slope,
+though very steep, was very grassy from the top to the bottom; and even
+if Rollo had fallen and rolled down it could not have done him much
+harm.</p>
+
+<p>After a short pause, to allow Rollo to get a little familiar with the
+scene, Mr. George began to move on. Rollo followed. Both Rollo and Mr.
+George would occasionally look up to see how far they were from the top.
+It was very difficult, however, to look up, as in doing so it was
+necessary to lean the head so far back that they came very near losing
+their balance.</p>
+
+<p>After going on for about half an hour, Mr. George said that he did not
+see that they were any nearer the top of the hill than they were at the
+beginning.</p>
+
+<p>"Nor I either," said Rollo; "and I think we had better go back again."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Well," said Mr. George, "we will; but let us first stop here a few
+minutes to look at the Jungfrau."</p>
+
+<p>The view of the Jungfrau was of course more commanding here than it was
+down at the inn. So Mr. George and Rollo remained some time at their
+resting-place gazing at the mountain and watching for avalanches. At
+length they returned to the inn; and an hour or two afterwards they set
+out on their journey to Grindelwald.</p>
+
+<p>The reader will recollect that Grindelwald was the valley on the other
+side of the Wengern Alp from Lauterbrunnen, and that our travellers,
+having come up one way, were going down the other.<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a></p>
+
+<p>The distance from the inn at the Wengern Alp to Grindelwald is seven or
+eight miles. For a time the path ascends, for the inn is not at the
+summit of the pass. Until it attains the summit it leads through a
+region of hills and ravines, with swamps, morasses, precipices of rocks,
+and great patches of snow scattered here and there along the way. At one
+place Rollo met with an adventure which for a moment put him in
+considerable danger. It was at a place where the path led along on the
+side of the mountain, with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span> a smooth grassy slope above and a steep
+descent ending in another smooth grassy slope below. At a little
+distance forward there was a great patch of snow, the edge of which came
+over the path and covered it.</p>
+
+<p>A heavy mist had come up just before Rollo reached this place, and he
+had accordingly spread his umbrella over his head. He was riding along,
+holding the bridle in one hand and his umbrella in the other, so that
+both his hands were confined. Mr. George was walking at some distance
+before. The guide, too, was a little in advance, for the path was too
+narrow for him to walk by the side of the horse; and, as the way here
+was smooth and pretty level, he did not consider it necessary that he
+should be in very close attendance on Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>Things being in this condition, the horse&mdash;when he came in sight of the
+snow, which lay covering the path at a little distance before
+him&mdash;concluded that it would be safer both for him and for his rider
+that he should not attempt to go through it, having learned by
+experience that his feet would sink sometimes to great depths in such
+cases. So he determined to turn round and go back. He accordingly
+stopped; and turning his head towards the grassy bank above the path and
+his heels towards the brink on the other side,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span> as horses always do when
+they undertake such a man&oelig;uvre in a narrow path, he attempted to "go
+about." Rollo was of course utterly unable to do any thing to control
+him except to pull one of the reins to bring him back into the path, and
+strike his heels into the horse's side as if he were spurring him. This,
+however, only made the matter worse. The horse backed off the brink; and
+both he and Rollo, falling head over heels, rolled down the steep slope
+together.</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/174.jpg" width="600" height="511" alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE FALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>And not together exactly, either; for Rollo<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> who was usually pretty
+alert and ready in emergencies of difficulty or danger, when he found
+himself rolling down the slope, though he could not stop, still
+contrived to wriggle and twist himself off to one side, so as to get
+clear of the horse and roll off himself in a different direction. They
+both, however, the animal and the boy, soon came to a stop. Rollo was up
+in an instant. The horse, too, contrived, after some scrambling, to gain
+his feet. All this time the guide remained in the path on the brink of
+the descent transfixed with astonishment and consternation.</p>
+
+<p>"Henry," said Rollo, looking up to the guide, "what is the French for
+<i>head over heels</i>?"</p>
+
+<p>A very decided but somewhat equivocal smile spread itself over Henry's
+features on hearing this question, which, however, he did not
+understand; and he immediately began to run down the bank to get the
+horse.</p>
+
+<p>"Because," said Rollo, still speaking in French, "that is what in
+English we call going <i>head over heels</i>."</p>
+
+<p>Henry led the horse round by a circuitous way back to the path. Rollo
+followed; and as soon as they reached it Rollo mounted again. Henry then
+took hold of the bridle of the horse and led him along till they got
+through the snow; after<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> which they went on without any further
+difficulty.</p>
+
+<p>The path led for a time along a very wild and desolate region, which
+seemed to be bordered on the right, at a distance of two or three miles,
+by a range of stupendous precipices, surmounted by peaks covered with
+ice and snow, which presented to the view a spectacle of the most
+astonishing grandeur. At one point in the path Rollo saw at a distance
+before him a number of buildings scattered over a green slope of land.</p>
+
+<p>"Ah," said he to the guide, "we are coming to a village."</p>
+
+<p>"No," said the guide. "It is a pasturage. We are too high yet for a
+village."</p>
+
+<p>On asking for a further explanation, Rollo learned that the mountaineers
+were accustomed to drive their herds up the mountains in the summer to
+places too cold to be inhabited all the year round, and to live there
+with them in these little huts during the two or three months while the
+grass was green. The men would bring up their milking pails, their pans,
+their churns, their cheese presses, and their kettles for cooking, and
+thus live in a sort of encampment while the grass lasted, and make
+butter and cheese to carry down the mountain with them when they
+returned.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>At one time Rollo saw at the door of one of the huts a man with what
+seemed to be a long pole in his hand. It was bent at the lower end. The
+man came out of a hut, and, putting the bent end of the pole to the
+ground, he brought the other up near to his mouth, and seemed to be
+waiting for the travellers to come down to him.</p>
+
+<p>"What is he going to do?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"He has got what we call an Alpine horn," said the guide; "and he is
+going to blow it for you, to let you hear the echoes."</p>
+
+<p>So, when Mr. George and Rollo reached the place, the man blew into the
+end of his pole, which proved to be hollow, and it produced a very loud
+sound, like that of a trumpet. The sounds were echoed against the face
+of a mountain which was opposite to the place in a very remarkable
+manner. Mr. George paid the man a small sum of money, and then they went
+on.</p>
+
+<p>Not long afterwards they came to another hut, which was situated
+opposite to a part of the mountain range where there was a great
+accumulation of ice and snow, that seemed to hang suspended, as it were,
+as if just ready to fall. A man stood at the door of this hut with a
+small iron cannon, which was mounted somewhat rudely on a block of wood,
+in his hand.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"What is he going to do with that cannon?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"He is going to fire it," said Henry, "to start down the avalanches from
+the mountain."</p>
+
+<p>Henry here pointed to the face of the mountain opposite to where they
+were standing, and showed Rollo the immense masses of ice and snow that
+seemed to hang suspended there, ready to fall.</p>
+
+<p>It is customary to amuse travellers in Switzerland with the story that
+the concussion produced by the discharge of a gun or a cannon will
+sometimes detach these masses, and thus hasten the fall of an avalanche;
+and though the experiment is always tried when travellers pass these
+places, I never yet heard of a case in which the effect was really
+produced. At any rate, in this instance,&mdash;though the man loaded his
+cannon heavily, and rammed the charge down well, and though the report
+was very loud and the echoes were extremely sharp and much
+prolonged,&mdash;there were no avalanches started by the concussion. Rollo
+and Mr. George watched the vast snow banks that overhung the cliffs with
+great interest for several minutes; but they all remained immovable.</p>
+
+<p>So Mr. George paid the man a small sum of money, and then they went on.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>After going on for an hour or two longer on this vast elevation, the
+path began gradually to descend into the valley of Grindelwald. The
+village of Grindelwald at length came into view, with the hundreds of
+cottages and hamlets that were scattered over the more fertile and
+cultivated region that surrounded it. The travellers could look down,
+also, upon the great glaciers of Grindelwald&mdash;two mighty streams of ice,
+half a mile wide and hundreds of feet deep, which come flowing very
+slowly down from the higher mountains, and terminate in icy precipices
+among the fields and orchards of the valley.<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> They determined to go
+and explore one of these glaciers the next day.</p>
+
+<p>As they drew near to the village, the people of the scattered cottages
+came out continually, as they saw them coming, with various plans to get
+money from them. At one place two pretty little peasant girls, in the
+Grindelwald costume, came out with milk for them. One of the girls held
+the pitcher and the other a mug; and they gave Mr. George and Rollo good
+drinks.<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> At another house a boy came out with filberts to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span> sell; and
+at another the merchandise consisted of crystals and other shining
+minerals which had been collected in the mountains near.</p>
+
+<p>At one time Rollo saw before him three children standing in a row by the
+side of the road. They seemed to have something in their hands. When he
+reached the place, he found that they had for sale some very cunning
+little Swiss cottages carved in wood. These carvings were extremely
+small and very pretty. Each one was put in a small box for safe
+transportation. In some cases the children had nothing to sell, and they
+simply held out their hands to beg as the travellers went by; and there
+were several lame persons, and idiots, and blind persons, and other
+objects of misery that occasionally appeared imploring charity. As,
+however, these unfortunates were generally satisfied with an exceedingly
+small donation, it did not cost much to make them all look very happy.
+There is a Swiss coin, of the value of a fifth part of a cent, which was
+generally enough to give; so that, for a New York shilling, Rollo found
+he could make more than sixty donations&mdash;which was certainly very cheap
+charity.</p>
+
+<p>"In fact," said Rollo, "it is so cheap that I would rather give them the
+money than not."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>At length the party arrived safely at Grindelwald and put up at an
+excellent inn, with windows looking out upon the glaciers. The next day
+they went to see the glaciers; and on the day following they returned to
+Interlachen.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Chapter_XI" id="Chapter_XI"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter XI.</span></h2>
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Glaciers.</span></h3>
+
+
+<p>A glacier, when really understood, is one of the most astonishing and
+impressive spectacles which the whole face of Nature exhibits. Mr.
+George and Rollo explored quite a number of them in the course of their
+travels in Switzerland; and Rollo would have liked to have explored a
+great many more.</p>
+
+
+
+<p>A glacier is a river of ice,&mdash;really and truly a river of
+ice,&mdash;sometimes two or three miles wide, and fifteen or twenty miles
+long, with many branches coming into it. Its bed is a steep valley,
+commencing far up among the mountains in a region of everlasting ice and
+snow, and ending in some warm and pleasant valley far below, where the
+warm sun beats upon the terminus of it and melts the ice away as fast as
+it comes down. It flows very slowly, not usually more than an inch in an
+hour. The warm summer sun beams upon the upper surface of it, melting it
+slowly away, and forming vast fissures<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span> and clefts in it, down which you
+can look to the bottom, if you only have courage to go near enough to
+the slippery edge. If you do not dare to do this, you can get a large
+stone and throw it in; and then, if you stand still and listen, you hear
+it thumping and thundering against the sides of the crevasse until it
+gets too deep to be any longer heard. You cannot hear it strike the
+bottom; for it is sometimes seven or eight hundred feet through the
+thickness of the glacier to the ground below.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/183.jpg" width="600" height="591" alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE CREVASSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The surface of the glacier above is not smooth and glassy like the ice
+of a freshly-frozen river or pond; but is white, like a field of snow.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span>
+This appearance is produced in part by the snow which falls upon the
+glacier, and in part by the melting of the surface of the ice by the
+sun. From this latter cause, too, the surface of the glacier is covered,
+in a summer's day, with streams of water, which flow, like little
+brooks, in long and winding channels which they themselves have worn,
+until at length they reach some fissure, or crevasse, into which they
+fall and disappear. The waters of these brooks&mdash;many thousands in
+all&mdash;form a large stream, which flows along on the surface of the ground
+under the glacier, and comes out at last, in a wild, and roaring, and
+turbid torrent, from an immense archway in the ice at the lower end,
+where the glacier terminates among the green fields and blooming flowers
+of the lower valley.</p>
+
+<p>The glaciers are formed from the avalanches which fall into the upper
+valleys in cases where the valleys are so deep and narrow and so
+secluded from the sun that the snows which slide into them cannot melt.
+In such case, the immense accumulations which gather there harden<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span> and
+solidify, and become ice; and, what is very astonishing, the whole mass,
+solid as it is, moves slowly onward down the valley, following all the
+turns and indentations of its bed, until finally it comes down into the
+warm regions of the lower valleys, where the end of it is melted away by
+the sun as fast as the mass behind crowds it forward. It is certainly
+very astonishing that a substance so solid as ice can flow in this way,
+along a rocky and tortuous bed, as if it were semi-fluid; and it was a
+long time before men would believe that such a thing could be possible.
+It was, however, at length proved beyond all question that this motion
+exists; and the rate of it in different glaciers at different periods of
+the day or of the year has been accurately measured.</p>
+
+<p>If you go to the end of the glacier, where it comes out into the lower
+valley, and look up to the icy cliffs which form the termination of it,
+and watch there for a few minutes, you soon see masses of ice breaking
+off from the brink and falling down with a thundering sound to the rocks
+below. This is because the ice at the extremity is all the time pressed
+forward by the mass behind it; and, as it comes to the brink, it breaks
+over and falls down. This is one evidence that the glaciers move.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>But there is another proof that the ice of the glaciers is continually
+moving onward which is still more direct and decisive. Certain
+philosophers, who wished to ascertain positively what the truth was,
+went to a glacier, and, selecting a large rock which lay upon the
+surface of it near the middle of the ice, they made a red mark with
+paint upon the rock, and two other marks on the rocks which formed the
+shore of the glacier. They made these three marks exactly in a line with
+each other, expecting that, if the glacier moved, the rock in the centre
+of it would be carried forward, and the three marks would be no longer
+in a line.</p>
+
+<p>This proved to be the case. In a very short time the central rock was
+found to have moved forward very perceptibly. This was several years
+ago. This rock is still on the glacier; and the red mark on it, as well
+as those on the shores, still remains. All the travellers who visit the
+glacier look at these marks and observe how the great rock on the ice
+moves forward. It is now at a long distance below the place where it was
+when its position was first recorded.</p>
+
+<p>Then, besides, you can actually hear the glaciers moving when you stand
+upon them. It is sometimes very difficult to get upon them; for at the
+sides where the ice rubs against the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span> rocks, immense chasms and fissures
+are formed, and vast blocks both of rock and ice are tumbled confusedly
+together in such a manner as to make the way almost impracticable. When,
+however, you fairly get upon the ice, if you stand still a moment and
+listen, you hear a peculiar groaning sound in the <i>moraines</i>. To
+understand this, however, I must first explain what a moraine is. On
+each side of the glacier, quite near the shore, there is usually found a
+ridge of rocks and stones extending up and down the glacier for the
+whole length of it, as if an immense wall formed of blocks of granite of
+prodigious magnitude had been built by giants to fence the glacier in,
+and had afterwards been shaken down by an earthquake, so as to leave
+only a confused and shapeless ridge of rocks and stones. These long
+lines of wall-like ruins may be traced along the borders of the glacier
+as far as the eye can reach. They lie just on the edge of the ice, and
+follow all the bends and sinuosities of the shore. It is a mystery how
+they are formed. All that is known, or rather all that can be here
+explained, is, that they are composed of the rocks which cleave off from
+the sides of the precipices and mountains that border the glacier, and
+that, when they have fallen down, the gradual movement of the ice draws
+them out into the long,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span> ridge-like lines in which they now appear. Some
+of these moraines are of colossal magnitude, being in several places a
+hundred feet broad and fifty or sixty feet high; and, as you cannot get
+upon the glacier without crossing them, they are often greatly in the
+traveller's way. In fact, they sometimes form a barrier which is all but
+impassable.</p>
+
+<p>The glacier which most impressed Mr. George and Rollo with its magnitude
+and grandeur was one that is called the Sea of Ice. It is called by this
+name on account of its extent. Its lower extremity comes out into the
+valley of Chamouni, the beautiful and world-renowned valley, which lies
+near the foot of Mont Blanc. In order to reach this glacier, the young
+gentlemen took horses and guides at the inn at Chamouni, and ascended
+for about two hours by a steep, zigzag path, which led from the valley
+up the sides of the mountain at the place which formed the angle between
+the great valley of Chamouni and the side valley through which the great
+glacier came down. After ascending thus for six or eight miles, they
+came out upon a lofty promontory, from which, on one side, they could
+look down upon the wild and desolate bed of the glacier, and, upon the
+other, upon the green, and fertile, and inexpressibly beautiful vale of
+Cha<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span>mouni, with the pretty little village in the centre of it. This
+place is called Montauvert. There is a small inn here, built expressly
+to accommodate travellers who wish to come up and go out upon the
+glacier.</p>
+
+<p>Although the traveller, when he reaches Montauvert, can look directly
+down upon the glacier, he cannot descend to it there; for, opposite to
+the inn, the valley of ice is bordered by cliffs and precipices a
+thousand feet high. It is necessary to follow along the bank two or
+three miles among stupendous rocks and under towering precipices, until
+at length a place is reached where, by dint of much scrambling and a
+great deal of help from the guide, it is possible to descend.</p>
+
+
+
+<p>Rollo was several times quite afraid in making this perilous excursion.
+In some places there seemed to be no path at all; and it was necessary
+for him to make his way by clinging to the roughnesses of the rocks on
+the steep, sloping side of the mountain, with an immense abyss yawning
+below. There was one such place where it would have been impossible for
+any one not accustomed to mountain climbing to have got along without
+the assistance of guides. When they reached this place, one guide went
+over first, and then reached out his hand to assist<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span> Rollo. The other
+scrambled down upon the rocks below, and planted his pike staff in a
+crevice of the rock in order to make a support for a foot. By this
+means, first Mr. George, and then Rollo, succeeded in getting safely
+over.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/190.jpg" width="600" height="593" alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE NARROW PATH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Both the travellers felt greatly relieved when they found themselves on
+the other side of this dangerous pass.</p>
+
+<p>In coming back, however, Rollo had the misfortune to lose his pike staff
+here. The staff<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span> slipped out of his hand as he was clinging to the
+rocks; and, after sliding down five or six hundred feet to the brink of
+the precipice, it shot over and fell a thousand feet to the glacier
+below, where it entered some awful chasm, or abyss, and disappeared
+forever.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. George and Rollo had a pretty hard time in scrambling over the
+moraine when they came to the place where they were to get upon the
+glacier. When they were fairly upon the glacier, however, they could
+walk along without any difficulty. It was like walking on wet snow in a
+warm day in spring. Little brooks were running in every direction, the
+bright waters sparkling in the sun. The crevasses attracted the
+attention of the travellers very strongly. They were immense fissures
+four or five feet wide, and extending downward perpendicularly to an
+unfathomable depth. Rollo and Mr. George amused themselves with throwing
+stones down. There were plenty of stones to be found on the glacier. In
+fact, rocks and stones of all sizes were scattered about very profusely,
+so much so as quite to excite Mr. George's astonishment.</p>
+
+<p>"I supposed," said he, "that the top of the glacier would be smooth and
+beautiful ice."</p>
+
+<p>"I did not think any thing about it," said Rollo.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"I imagined it to be smooth, and glassy, and pure," said Mr. George;
+"and, instead of that, it looks like a field of old snow covered with
+scattered rocks and stones."</p>
+
+<p>Some of the rocks which lay upon the glacier were very large, several of
+them being as big as houses. It was remarkable, too, that the largest of
+them, instead of having settled down in some degree into the ice and
+snow, as it might have been expected from their great weight they would
+have done, were raised sometimes many feet above the general level of
+the glacier, being mounted on a sort of pedestal of ice. The reason of
+this was, that when the block was very large, so large that the beams of
+the sun shining upon it all day would not warm it through, then the ice
+beneath it would be protected by its coolness, while the surface of the
+glacier around would be gradually melted and wasted away by the beams of
+the sun or by the warm rains which might occasionally fall upon it.
+Thus, in process of time, the great bowlder block rises, as it were,
+many feet into the air, and remains there perched on the top of a little
+hillock of ice, like a mass of monumental marble on a pedestal.<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In excursions on the glaciers the guides take a rope with them, and
+sometimes a light ladder. The rope is for various purposes. If a
+traveller were to fall into any deep pit, or crevasse, or to slip down
+some steep slope or precipice, so that he could not get up again, the
+guides might let the rope down to him, and then when he had fastened it
+around his waist they could draw him up, when, without some such means
+of rescuing him, he would be wholly lost. In the same manner, when a
+party are walking along any very steep and slippery place, where if any
+one were to fall he would slide down into some dreadful abyss, it is
+customary for them to walk in a line with the rope in their hands, each
+one taking hold of it. Thus, if any one should slip a little, he could
+recover himself by means of the rope, when, without such a support, he
+would perhaps have fallen and been dashed to pieces. Sometimes, when the
+place is very dangerous indeed, so that several guides are required to
+each traveller, they tie the rope round the traveller's waist, so that
+he can have his hands free and yet avail himself of the support of the
+rope in passing along.</p>
+
+<p>The ladder is used for scaling low precipices, either of rock or ice,
+which sometimes come in the way, and which could not be surmounted<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span>
+without such aid. In long and dangerous excursions, especially among the
+higher Alps, one of the guides always carries a ladder; and there are
+frequent occasions where it would not be possible to go on without using
+it.</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 545px;">
+<img src="images/194.jpg" width="545" height="600" alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">ASCENT OF MONT BLANC.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A hatchet, too, is of great advantage in climbing among the immense
+masses of ice which are found at great elevations, since, by means of
+such an implement, steps may be cut in the ice which will enable the
+explorer to climb up an ascent too long to be reached by the ladder and
+too steep to be ascended without artificial footholds. In ascending Mont
+Blanc the traveller sometimes comes to a precipice of ice, with a chasm
+of immense depth, and four or five feet wide, at the bottom of it. In
+such a case the foot of the ladder is planted on the outside of the
+chasm, and the top of it is made to rest against the face of the
+precipice, ten or fifteen feet perhaps from the brink. One of the
+boldest and most skilful of the guides then ascends the ladder, hatchet
+in hand, and there, suspended as he is over the yawning gulf below, he
+begins to cut steps in the face of the precipice, shaping the gaps which
+he makes in such a manner that he can cling to them with his hands as
+well as rest upon them with his feet. He thus slowly ascends the
+barrier, cutting his way as he advances. He carries the end of the rope
+up with him, tied around his waist; and then by means of it, when he has
+reached the summit, he aids the rest of the party in coming up to him.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. George and Rollo, however, did not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span> venture into any such dangers as
+these. They could see all that they desired of the stupendous
+magnificence and awful desolation of these scenes without it. They spent
+the whole of the middle of the day on the glacier or on the slopes of
+the mountains around it; and then in the afternoon they came down the
+zigzag path again to Chamouni, very tired and very hungry.</p>
+
+<p>To be tired and hungry, however, when you come home at night to a Swiss
+inn, is a great source of enjoyment&mdash;on account of the admirable
+arrangements for rest and refreshment which you are sure to find there.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Chapter_XII" id="Chapter_XII"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter XII.</span></h2>
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Rollo a Courier.</span></h3>
+
+
+<p>Rollo came in one morning to the hotel at Meyringen, after having been
+taking a walk on the banks of a mighty torrent that flows through the
+valley, and found his uncle George studying the guide book and map, with
+an appearance of perplexity. Mr. George was seated at a table on a
+balcony, which opened from the dining room of the inn. This balcony was
+very large, and rooms opened from it in various directions. There were
+several tables here, with seats around them, where those who chose to do
+so could take their breakfast or their dinner in the open air, and enjoy
+the views of the surrounding mountains and waterfalls at the same time.
+Mr. George was seated at one of these tables, with his map and his guide
+book before him.</p>
+
+<p>"Well, uncle George," said Rollo, "are you planning our journey?"</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Mr. George; "and I am very much perplexed."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Why, what is the difficulty?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"There is no possibility of getting out of this valley," said Mr.
+George, "except by going all the way back to Thun,&mdash;and that I am not
+willing to do."</p>
+
+<p>"Is there no <i>possible</i> way?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"No," said Mr. George, "unless we go over the Brunig Pass on foot."</p>
+
+<p>"Well," said Rollo, "let us do that."</p>
+
+<p>"We might possibly do that," continued Mr. George, still looking
+intently at his map. "We should have to go over the Brunig to Lungern on
+foot, with a horse for our baggage. Then we should have to take a car
+from Lungern down the valleys to the shore of Lake Lucerne, and there
+get a boat, for six or eight miles, on the lake to the town."</p>
+
+<p>"Well," said Rollo, joyfully, "I should like that."</p>
+
+<p>Rollo liked the idea of making the journey in the way that his uncle
+George had described, on account of the numerous changes which would be
+necessary in it, in respect to the modes of conveyance. It was for this
+very reason that his uncle did <i>not</i> like it.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes, uncle George," said Rollo, again. "That will be an excellent way
+to go to Lucerne. Don't you think it will?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"No," said Mr. George. "It will be so much trouble. We shall have three
+different arrangements to make for conveyance, in one day."</p>
+
+<p>"No matter for that, uncle George," said Rollo. "I will do all that. Let
+me be the courier, uncle George, and I'll take you from here to Lucerne
+without your having the least trouble. I will make all the arrangements,
+so that you shall have nothing to do. You may read, if you choose, the
+whole of the way."</p>
+
+<p>"How will you find out what to do?" asked Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>"O, I'll study the guide book carefully," replied Rollo; "and, besides,
+I'll inquire of the landlord here."</p>
+
+<p>"Well," said Mr. George, hesitatingly, "I have a great mind to try it."</p>
+
+<p>"Only you must pay me," said Rollo. "I can't be courier without being
+paid."</p>
+
+<p>"How much must I pay?" asked Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>"Why, about a quarter of a dollar," replied Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"It is worth more than that," said Mr. George. "I will give you half a
+dollar if you make all the arrangements and get me safe to Lucerne
+without my having any care or trouble. But then if you get into
+difficulty in any case, and have to appeal to me, you lose your whole
+pay.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span> If you carry me through, I give you half a dollar. If you don't
+really carry me through, you have nothing."</p>
+
+<p>Rollo agreed to these conditions, and Mr. George proceeded to shut up
+the map and the guide book, and to put them in his hands.</p>
+
+<p>"I will sit down here now," said Rollo, "and study the map and the guide
+book until I have learned all I can from them, and then I will go and
+talk with the landlord."</p>
+
+<p>Mr. George did not make any reply to this remark, but taking out a small
+portfolio, containing writing materials, from his pocket, he set himself
+at work writing some letters; having, apparently, dismissed the whole
+subject of the mode of crossing the Brunig entirely from his mind.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo took his seat at a table on the balcony in a corner opposite to
+the place where his uncle was writing, and spread out the map before
+him. His seat commanded a very extended and magnificent view. In the
+foreground were the green fields, the gardens, and the orchards of the
+lower valley. Beyond, green pasturages were seen extending over the
+lower declivities of the mountains, with hamlets perched here and there
+upon the shelving rocks, and winding and zigzag roads ascending from one
+elevation to another, while<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span> here and there prodigious cataracts and
+cascades were to be seen, falling down hundreds of feet, over
+perpendicular precipices, or issuing from frightful chasms. Rollo
+stopped occasionally to gaze upon these scenes; and sometimes he would
+pause to put a spy glass to his eye, in order to watch the progress of
+the parties of travellers that were to be seen, from time to time,
+coming down along a winding path which descended the face of the
+mountain about two or three miles distant, across the valley. With the
+exception of these brief interruptions, Rollo continued very steadily at
+his work; and in about half an hour he shut up the map, and put it in
+its case, saying, in a tone of great apparent satisfaction,&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"There! I understand it now perfectly."</p>
+
+<p>He was in hopes that his uncle would have asked him some questions about
+the route, in order that he might show how fully he had made himself
+acquainted with it; but Mr. George said nothing, and so Rollo went away
+to find the landlord.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>That night, just before bed time, Mr. George asked Rollo what time he
+was going to set out the next morning.</p>
+
+<p>"Immediately after breakfast," said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"Are we going to ride or walk?" asked Mr. George.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"We are going to walk over the pass," said Rollo. "The road is too steep
+and rocky for horses. But then we are going to have a horse to carry the
+trunk."</p>
+
+<p>"Can you put our trunk on a horse?" asked Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," replied Rollo, "the guide says he can."</p>
+
+<p>"Very well," said Mr. George, "and just as soon as we get through
+breakfast I am going to walk on, and leave you to pack the trunk on the
+horse, and come along when you are ready."</p>
+
+<p>"Well," said Rollo, "you can do that."</p>
+
+<p>"Because, you see," continued Mr. George, "you will probably have
+various difficulties and delays in getting packed and ready, and I don't
+want to have any thing to do with it. I wish to have my mind entirely
+free, so as to enjoy the walk and the scenery without any care or
+responsibility whatever."</p>
+
+<p>Sometimes, when fathers or uncles employ boys to do any work, or to
+assume any charge, they stand by and help them all the time, so that the
+real labor and responsibility do not come on the boy after all. He gets
+paid for the work, and he <i>imagines</i> that he does it&mdash;his father or his
+uncle allowing him to imagine so, for the sake of pleasing him. But
+there was no such child's play as this between Mr. George and Rollo.
+When<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span> Rollo proposed to undertake any duty, Mr. George always considered
+well, in the first instance, whether it was a duty that he was really
+competent to perform. If it was not, he would not allow him to undertake
+it. If it was, he left him to bear the whole burden and responsibility
+of it, entirely alone.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo understood this perfectly well, and he liked such a mode of
+management. He was, accordingly, not at all surprised to hear his uncle
+George propose to leave him to make all the arrangements of the journey
+alone.</p>
+
+<p>"You see," said Mr. George, "when I hire a courier I expect him to take
+all the care of the journey entirely off my mind, and leave me to
+myself, so that I can have a real good time."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Rollo, "that is right."</p>
+
+<p>And here, perhaps, I ought to explain that what is called a courier, in
+the vocabulary of tourists in Europe, is a <i>travelling servant</i>, who,
+when he is employed by any party, takes the whole charge of their
+affairs, and makes all necessary arrangements, so that they can travel
+without any care or concern. He engages the conveyances and guides,
+selects the inns, pays the bills, takes charge of the baggage, and does
+every thing, in short, that is necessary to secure the comfort and
+safety of the party on their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span> journey, and to protect them from every
+species of trouble and annoyance. He has himself often before travelled
+over the countries through which he is to conduct his party, so that he
+is perfectly familiar with them in every part, and he knows all the
+languages that it is necessary to speak in them. Thus when once under
+the charge of such a guide, a gentleman journeying in Europe, even if he
+has his whole family with him, need have no care or concern, but may be
+as quiet and as much at his ease, all the time, as if he were riding
+about his own native town in his private carriage.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning, after breakfast, Mr. George rose from the table, and
+prepared to set out on his journey. He put the belt of his knapsack over
+his shoulder, and took his alpenstock in his hand.</p>
+
+<p>"Good by, Rollo," said he. "I will walk on, taking the road to the
+Brunig, and you can come when you get ready. You will overtake me in the
+course of half an hour, or an hour."</p>
+
+<p>Rollo accompanied Mr. George to the door, and then wishing him a
+pleasant walk, bade him good by.</p>
+
+<p>In a few minutes the guide came around the corner of the house, from the
+inn yard, leading the horse. He stopped to water the horse at a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span>
+fountain in the street, and then led him to the door. In the mean time
+the porter of the inn had brought down the trunk, and then the guide
+proceeded to fasten it upon the saddle of the horse, by means of two
+strong straps. The saddle was what is called a pack saddle, and was made
+expressly to receive such burdens.</p>
+
+<p>After having placed the trunk and secured it firmly, the guide put on
+the umbrella, and Mr. George's and Rollo's greatcoats, and also Rollo's
+knapsack. These things made quite a pile on the horse's back. The burden
+was increased, too, by several things belonging to the guide himself,
+which he put on over all the rest, such as a great-coat and a little bag
+of provisions.</p>
+
+<p>At length, when all was ready, Rollo bade the innkeeper good by, and set
+out on his journey. The guide went first, driving the horse before him,
+and Rollo followed, with his alpenstock in his hand.</p>
+
+<p>They soon passed out of the village, and then travelled along a very
+pleasant road, which skirted the foot of the mountain range,&mdash;all the
+time gradually ascending. Rollo looked out well before him, whenever he
+came to a straight part of the road, in hopes of seeing his uncle; but
+Mr. George was nowhere in view.</p>
+
+<p>Presently he came to a place where there was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span> a gate, and a branch path,
+turning off from the main road, directly towards the mountain. Here
+Rollo, quite to his relief and gratification, found his uncle. Mr.
+George was sitting on a stone by the side of the road, reading.</p>
+
+<p>He shut his book when he saw Rollo and the guide, and put it away in his
+knapsack. At the same time he rose from his seat, saying,&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"Well, Rollo, which is the way?"</p>
+
+<p>"I don't know," said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>The guide, however, settled the question by taking hold of the horse's
+bridle, and leading him off into the side path. The two travellers
+followed him.</p>
+
+<p>The path led through a very romantic and beautiful scene of fields,
+gardens, and groves, among the trees of which were here and there seen
+glimpses of magnificent precipices and mountains rising very near, a
+little beyond them. After following this path a few steps, two girls
+came running out from a cottage. One of them had a board under her arm.
+The other had nothing. They both glanced at the travellers, as they
+passed, and then ran forward along the road before them.</p>
+
+<p>"What do you suppose those girls are going to do?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"I can't conceive," replied Mr. George. "Some thing for us to pay for,
+I'll engage."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"And shall you pay them?" asked Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"No," said Mr. George. "<i>I</i> shall not pay them. I shall leave all such
+business to my courier."</p>
+
+<p>The purpose with which the two girls had come out was soon made to
+appear; for after running along before the party of travellers for about
+a quarter of a mile, they came to a place where two shallow but rather
+broad brooks flowed across the pathway. When Rollo and Mr. George came
+up to the place they found that the girls had placed boards over these
+streams of water for bridges. One of the boards was the one which the
+girl had brought along with her, under her arm. The other girl, it
+seems, kept her board under the bushes near the place, because it was
+too heavy to carry back and forth to the house. It was their custom to
+watch for travellers coming along the path, and then to run on before
+them and lay these bridges over the brooks,&mdash;expecting, of course, to be
+paid for it. Rollo gave them each a small piece of money, and then he
+and Mr. George went on.</p>
+
+<p>Soon the road began to ascend the side of the mountain in long zigzags
+and windings. These windings presented new views of the valley below at
+every turn, each successive picture being more extended and grand than
+the preceding.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>At length, after ascending some thousands of feet, the party came to a
+resting-place, consisting of a seat in a sort of bower, which had been
+built for the accommodation of travellers, at a turn of the road where
+there was an uncommonly magnificent view. Here they stopped to rest,
+while the guide, leading the horse to a spring at the road side, in
+order that he might have a drink, sat down himself on a flat stone
+beside him.</p>
+
+<p>"How far is it that we have got to walk?" asked Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo looked at his watch, and then said, "We have got to walk about
+three hours more."</p>
+
+<p>"And what shall we come to then?" asked Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>"We shall come down on the other side of the mountain," said Rollo, "to
+a little village called Lungern, where there is a good road; and there I
+am going to hire a carriage, and a man to drive us to the lake. It is a
+beautiful country that we are going through, and the road leads along
+the shores of mountain lakes. The first lake is up very high among the
+mountains. The next is a great deal lower down, and we have to go down a
+long way by a zigzag road, till we get to it. Then we go along the shore
+of this second lake, through several towns, and at last we come to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span> the
+landing on the Lake of Lucerne. There I shall hire a boat."</p>
+
+<p>"What kind of a boat?" asked Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>"I don't know," said Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"How do you know that there will be any boat there?" asked Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>"Because the guide book says there will," replied Rollo. "They always
+have boats there to take people that come along this road to Lucerne."</p>
+
+<p>"Why do they not go all the way by land?" asked Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>"Because," said Rollo, "the whole country there is so full of mountains
+that there is no place for a road."</p>
+
+<p>Just at this time the guide got up from his seat, and seemed ready to
+set out upon his journey; and so Mr. George and Rollo rose and went on.</p>
+
+<p>After ascending about an hour more, through a series of very wild and
+romantic glens, with cottages and curious-looking chalets scattered here
+and there along the borders of them, wherever the ground was smooth and
+green enough for cattle to feed, our travellers came, at length, to the
+summit of the pass, where, in a very pleasant and sheltered spot,
+surrounded with forest trees, there stood a little inn. On arriving at<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span>
+this place the guide proceeded to take off the load from the horse and
+to place it upon a sort of frame, such as is used in those countries for
+burdens which are to be carried on the back of a man.</p>
+
+<p>"What is he going to do?" asked Mr. George.</p>
+
+<p>"He is going to carry the baggage the rest of the way himself," said
+Rollo. "You see it is so steep and rocky from here down to Lungern that
+it is dreadful hard work to get a horse down and up again; especially
+<i>up</i>. So the guide leaves the horse here, and is going to carry the
+baggage down himself on his back. That rack that he is fastening the
+trunk upon goes on his back. Those straps in front of it come over his
+shoulders."</p>
+
+<p>"It seems to me," said Mr. George, "that that is a monstrous heavy load
+to put on a man's back, to go down a place which is so steep and rocky
+that a horse could not get along over it. But then I suppose my courier
+knows what he is about."</p>
+
+<p>So Mr. George, with an air and manner which seemed to say, It is none of
+my concern, walked up a flight of steps which led to a sort of elevated
+porch or platform before the door of the inn.</p>
+
+<p>For a moment Rollo himself was a little dis<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span>concerted, not knowing
+whether it would be safe for a man to go down a steep declivity with
+such a burden on his back; but when he reflected that this was the
+arrangement that the guide himself had proposed, and that the guide had,
+doubtless, done the same thing a hundred times before, he ceased to feel
+any uneasiness, and following Mr. George up the steps, he took a seat by
+his side, at a little table, which was placed there for the
+accommodation of travellers stopping at the inn to rest.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo and his uncle spent half an hour at this hotel. For refreshment
+they had some very excellent and rich Alpine milk, which they drank from
+very tall and curiously-shaped tumblers. They also amused themselves in
+looking at some specimens of carved work, such as models of Swiss
+cottages&mdash;and figures of shepherds, and milkmaids with loads of utensils
+on their backs&mdash;and groups of huntsmen, with dogs leaping up around
+them&mdash;and chamois, or goats, climbing about among the rocks and
+mountains. Rollo had bought a pretty good supply of such sculptures
+before; but there was one specimen here that struck his fancy so much
+that he could not resist the temptation of adding it to his collection,
+especially as Mr. George approved of his making the purchase. It was a
+model of what<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span> is called a chalet,<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> which is a sort of hut that the
+shepherds occupy in the upper pasturages, in the summer, where they go
+to tend the cows, and to make butter and cheese. The little chalet was
+made in such a manner that the roof would lift up like a lid, and let
+you see all there was within. There was a row of cows, with little
+calves by them, in stalls on one side of the chalet, and on the other
+side tables and benches, with pans of milk and tubs upon them, and a
+churn, and a cheese press, and other such like things. There was a bed,
+too, for the shepherd, in a sort of a garret above, just big enough to
+hold it.</p>
+
+<p>In about half an hour the guide seemed ready to proceed, and the whole
+party set out again on their journey. The guide went before, with the
+trunk and all the other baggage piled up on the rack behind him. He had
+a stout staff in his hand, which he used to prevent himself from
+falling, in going down the steep and rocky places. Some of these places
+were very steep and rocky indeed&mdash;so much so that going down them was a
+work of climbing rather than walking, and Rollo himself was sometimes
+almost afraid. What made these places the more frightful was, that the
+path in descending them was often exceedingly narrow, and was bordered,
+on one side, by a per<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span>pendicular wall of rock, and by an unfathomable
+abyss of rocks and roaring cataracts on the other. To behold the skill
+and dexterity with which the guide let himself down, from rock to rock,
+in this dreadful defile, loaded as he was, excited both in Mr. George
+and Rollo a continual sentiment of wonder.</p>
+
+<p>At length the steepest part of the descent was accomplished, and then
+the road led, for a mile, through a green and pretty valley, with lofty
+rocks and mountains on either hand, and chalets and pretty cottages at
+various distances along the roadside. At one place, in a very romantic
+and delightful spot, they came to a small chapel. It had been built
+there to commemorate some remarkable event, and to afford a
+resting-place for travellers. The door of this chapel was fastened, but
+Rollo could look in through a window and see the altar, and the
+crucifix, and the tall candles, within. He and Mr. George sat down, too,
+on the stone step of the chapel for a little while, to rest, and to
+enjoy the view. While they were there another traveller came by,
+ascending from Lungern, and he stopped to rest there too. He was lame,
+and seemed to be poor. He had a pack on his back. Mr. George talked with
+this man in French while they sat together on the steps of the chapel,
+and when he went away Mr. George gave him a little money.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>After leaving the chapel the travellers continued their descent, the
+valley opening before them more and more as they proceeded, until, at
+length, the village of Lungern came in sight, far below them, at the
+head of a little lake.</p>
+
+<p>"There!" said Rollo, as soon as the village came in sight. "That is
+Lungern. That is the place where the carriage road begins."</p>
+
+<p>"I am glad of that," said Mr. George. "A ride in a carriage will be very
+pleasant after all this scrambling over the mountains&mdash;that is, provided
+you get a good carriage."</p>
+
+<p>When, at length, the party reached the inn, the guide set down his load
+on a bench at the door of it, and, smiling, seemed quite pleased to be
+rid of the heavy burden.</p>
+
+<p>"Are we going to take dinner here?" said Mr. George to Rollo.</p>
+
+<p>"No, sir," said Rollo. "At least, I don't know. We'll see."</p>
+
+<p>The landlord of the inn met the travellers at the door, and conducted
+them up a flight of stone stairs, and thence into a room where several
+tables were set, and different parties of travellers were taking
+refreshments. The landlord, after showing them into this room, went down
+stairs again to attend to other travellers. Mr. George and Rollo walked
+into the room. After looking<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span> about the room a moment, however, Rollo
+said he must go down and see about a carriage.</p>
+
+<p>"Wait here a few minutes, uncle George," said he, "while I go and engage
+a carriage, and then I will come back."</p>
+
+<p>So saying, Rollo went away, and Mr. George took his seat by a window.</p>
+
+<p>Presently the waiter came to Mr. George, and asked him, in French, if he
+wished for any refreshment.</p>
+
+<p>"I don't know," said Mr. George. "I will wait till the boy comes back,
+and then we'll see."</p>
+
+<p>In a short time Rollo came back.</p>
+
+<p>"The carriage will be ready in twenty minutes," said he.</p>
+
+<p>"Very well," said Mr. George. "And the waiter wants to know whether we
+are going to have any thing to eat."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said Rollo, "we are going to have a luncheon."</p>
+
+<p>Rollo then went to the waiter, and said, in French, "Bread, butter,
+coffee, and strawberries, for two." "Very well, sir," said the waiter,
+and he immediately went away to prepare what Rollo had ordered.</p>
+
+<p>In due time the refreshment was ready, and Mr. George and Rollo sat down
+to the table, with great appetites. Every thing was very nice.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span> The
+strawberries, in particular, though very small in size, as the Alpine
+strawberries always are, were very abundant in quantity, and delicious
+in flavor. There was also plenty of rich cream to eat them with. When,
+at length, the travellers had finished eating their luncheon, the
+landlord came to say that the carriage was ready. So Rollo paid the
+bill, and then he and Mr. George went down to the door. Here they found
+a very pretty chaise, with a seat in front for the driver, all ready for
+them. The trunk and all the other baggage were strapped securely on
+behind. Mr. George and Rollo got in. The top of the chaise was down, so
+that the view was unobstructed on every side.</p>
+
+<p>"Well," said Rollo, "do you think it <i>is</i> a good carriage?"</p>
+
+<p>"A most excellent one," said Mr. George. "We shall have a delightful
+ride, I am sure."</p>
+
+<p>Mr. George was not disappointed in his anticipations of a delightful
+ride. The day was very pleasant, and the scenery of the country through
+which they had to pass was as romantic and beautiful as could be
+imagined. The road descended rapidly, from valley to valley, sometimes
+by sharp zigzags, and sometimes by long and graceful meanderings,
+presenting at every turn some new and charming view. There<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span> were green
+valleys, and shady dells, and foaming cascades, and dense forests, and
+glassy lakes, and towering above the whole, on either side, were vast
+mountain slopes, covered with forests, and ranges of precipitous rocks,
+their summits shooting upward, in pinnacles, to the very clouds.</p>
+
+<p>After journeying on in this manner for some hours the carriage arrived
+at an inn on the shores of the Lake of Lucerne. There was a landing
+there, and a number of boats, drawn up near a little pier.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," exclaimed Rollo, when he saw the boats, "this is the place. The
+name of it is Alpnach. We are to go the rest of the way by water."</p>
+
+<p>"That will be very pleasant," said Mr. George, as he got out of the
+carriage. "I shall like a row on the lake very much. I will go directly
+down to the landing, and you can come when you get ready."</p>
+
+<p>So Mr. George walked on down to the pier, leaving Rollo to perform his
+duties as a courier, according to his own discretion.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo first paid the driver of the carriage what was due to him,
+according to the agreement that he had made with the Lungern landlord,
+and then explained to the Alpnach landlord, in as good French as he
+could command, that he wanted<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span> a boat, to take him and the gentleman who
+was travelling with him to Lucerne, and asked what the price would be.
+The landlord named the regular price, and Rollo engaged the boat. The
+landlord then sent for a boatman. In a few minutes the boatman was seen
+coming. He was followed by two rather pretty-looking peasant girls, each
+bringing an oar on her shoulder. These two girls were the boatman's
+daughters. They were going with their father in the boat, to help him
+row.</p>
+
+<p>The boatman took up the trunk, and the girls the other parcels of
+baggage, and so carried the whole, together with the oars, down to the
+boat. Rollo followed them, and the whole party immediately embarked. It
+was a bright and sunny day, though there were some dark and heavy clouds
+in the western sky. The water of the lake was very smooth, and it
+reflected the mountains and the skies in a very beautiful manner. Mr.
+George and Rollo took their seats in the boat, under an awning that was
+spread over a frame in the central portion of it. This awning sheltered
+them from the sun, while it did not intercept their view. The man and
+the girls took each of them an oar, standing up, however, to row, and
+<i>pushing</i> the oar before them, instead of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span> <i>pulling</i> it, according to
+our fashion.<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> Thus they commenced the voyage.</p>
+
+<p>Every thing went on very pleasantly for an hour, only, as the boatman
+and his daughters could speak no language but German, Mr. George and
+Rollo could have no conversation with them. But they could talk with
+each other, and they had a very pleasant time. At length, however, the
+clouds which had appeared in the western sky rose higher and higher, and
+grew blacker and blacker, and, finally, low, rumbling peals of thunder
+began to be heard. The boatman talked with his daughters, pointing to
+the clouds, and then said something to Mr. George in German; but neither
+Mr. George nor Rollo could understand it. They soon found, however, that
+the boat was turned towards the shore. They were very glad of this, for
+Rollo said that he had read in the guide book that the Swiss lakes were
+subject to very violent tempests, such as it would be quite dangerous to
+encounter far from the shore. Rollo said, moreover, that the boatmen
+were very vigilant in watching for the approach of these storms, and
+that they would always at once make the best of their way to the land
+whenever they saw one coming on.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In this instance the wind began to blow, and the rain to fall, before
+the boat reached the shore. Rollo and Mr. George were sheltered by the
+awning, but the boatman and the two girls got very wet. They, however,
+continued to work hard at the oars, and at length they reached the
+shore. The place where they landed was in a cove formed by a point of
+land, where there was a little inn near the water. As soon as the boat
+reached the shore Mr. George and Rollo leaped out of it, and spreading
+their umbrella they ran up to the inn.</p>
+
+<p>They waited here nearly an hour. They sat on a piazza in front of the
+inn, listening to the sound of the thunder and of the wind, and watching
+the drops of rain falling on the water. At length the wind subsided, the
+rain gradually ceased, and the sun came out bright and beaming as ever.
+The party then got into the boat, and the boatman pushed off from the
+shore; and in an hour more they all landed safely on the quay at
+Lucerne, very near to a magnificent hotel.</p>
+
+<p>Our two travellers were soon comfortably seated at a table in the dining
+room of the hotel before an excellent dinner, which Rollo had ordered.
+Mr. George told Rollo, as they took their seats at the table, that he
+had performed his duty as a courier in a very satisfactory manner, and
+had fully earned his pay.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Chapter_XIII" id="Chapter_XIII"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter XIII.</span></h2>
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Conclusion.</span></h3>
+
+
+<p>It is not possible to describe in such a volume as this more than a
+small part of the excursions which Mr. George and Rollo made or the
+adventures which they met with in the course of their tour in
+Switzerland. They remained in the country of the Alps more than a
+fortnight; and they enjoyed, as Rollo said, every moment of the time.
+There was no end to the cascades and waterfalls, the ice and snow-clad
+summits, the glaciers, the romantic zigzag paths up the mountain sides,
+the picturesque hamlets and cottages, and the groups of peasants toiling
+in the fields or tending flocks and herds in the higher pasturages.
+Rollo's heart was filled all the time that he remained among these
+scenes with never-ceasing wonder and delight. The inns pleased him, too,
+as much perhaps as any thing else; for the climbing of mountains and the
+long excursions on foot gave him a most excellent appetite; and at the
+inns they always found such<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span> nice breakfasts, dinners, and suppers every
+day that Rollo was never tired of praising them.</p>
+
+<p>Rollo found the cost, too, of travelling in Switzerland much less than
+he had expected. He did not expend nearly all the allowance which his
+father had granted him. When he came to settle up his accounts, after he
+had got back to Paris, he found that he had saved about seventy-five
+francs, which made nearly fifteen dollars; and this sum he accordingly
+added to his <i>capital</i>&mdash;for that was the name by which he was accustomed
+to designate the stock of funds which he had gradually accumulated and
+reserved.</p>
+
+<p>Just before Mr. George and Rollo left Switzerland, on their return to
+Paris, they received a letter from Mr. Holiday, who was still in Paris,
+in consequence of which they concluded to make a short tour on the Rhine
+on their way to France. The adventures which they met with on this tour
+will form the subject of another volume of this series.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Carlos was a Spanish boy, who was residing at this time at
+the same hotel with Mr. George. The manner in which Rollo became
+acquainted with him is related in Rollo in Paris. Carlos did not
+understand English, nor Rollo Spanish; but when they were together they
+usually kept talking all the time, each in his own way.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> A courier is a travelling servant and guide.</p></div>
+
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Mr. George, in speaking these words, did not pronounce them
+as you would suppose from the manner in which they are written. He
+pronounced them very much as if they were spelled Tru-ah Ru-ah. In the
+same manner, the German words, Drei K&ouml;nige, he pronounced as if they
+were spelled Dhrai Ker-nig-ger.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> See Rollo in Paris for an account of these dens for bears
+in the Garden of Plants.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> The zenith is the point in the heavens that is directly
+over our heads.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> Pronounced <i>Yoongfrow</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> Pronounced <i>shamwawh</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> See the map at the commencement of the first chapter.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> They are pronounced as if spelled Gooten arbend.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> Flowers dry faster and better between sheets of blotting
+paper than between those of common printing paper, such as is used for
+books; for the surface of this latter is covered with a sort of sizing
+used in the manufacture of it, and which prevents the moisture of the
+plant from entering into the paper.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> See <a href='#map'>map</a>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> It may seem strange that streams of ice, hundreds of feet
+thick and solid to the bottom, can <i>flow</i>; but such is the fact, as will
+appear more fully in the next chapter.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> See frontispiece.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> Any loose rock of large size detached from its native
+ledge or mountain is called a <i>bowlder</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> Pronounced <i>shallay</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> The Swiss always stand up in rowing, and <i>push</i> the oar.
+Thus they look the way they are going.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Rollo in Switzerland, by Jacob Abbott
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Rollo in Switzerland, by Jacob Abbott
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Rollo in Switzerland
+
+Author: Jacob Abbott
+
+Release Date: August 23, 2007 [EBook #22377]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ROLLO IN SWITZERLAND ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by D. Alexander, Janet Blenkinship and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  ROLLO IN SWITZERLAND,
+
+  BY
+
+  JACOB ABBOTT.
+
+
+  NEW YORK:
+  SHELDON & CO., 667 BROADWAY,
+  and 214 & 216 MERCER ST.,
+  Grand Central Hotel.
+  1873.
+
+  Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1858, by JACOB ABBOTT,
+
+  In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of
+  Massachusetts.
+
+
+
+
+  [Illustration: ROLLO'S IN EUROPE.]
+
+  ROLLO'S TOUR IN EUROPE.
+
+  ORDER OF THE VOLUMES.
+
+  ROLLO ON THE ATLANTIC.
+  ROLLO IN PARIS.
+  ROLLO IN SWITZERLAND.
+  ROLLO IN LONDON.
+  ROLLO ON THE RHINE.
+  ROLLO IN SCOTLAND.
+  ROLLO IN GENEVA.
+  ROLLO IN HOLLAND.
+
+
+
+
+  [Illustration: MONT BLANC.]
+
+
+  PRINCIPAL PERSONS OF THE STORY.
+
+  ROLLO; twelve years of age.
+
+  MR. and MRS. HOLIDAY; Rollo's father and mother, travelling
+  in Europe.
+
+  THANNY; Rollo's younger brother.
+
+  JANE; Rollo's cousin, adopted by Mr. and Mrs. Holiday.
+
+  MR. GEORGE; a young gentleman, Rollo's uncle.
+
+
+
+
+  CONTENTS.
+
+  CHAPTER                                                             PAGE
+
+  I.--GETTING A PASSPORT,                                               11
+
+  II.--CROSSING THE FRONTIER,                                           31
+
+  III.--BASLE,                                                          49
+
+  IV.--THE DILIGENCE,                                                   60
+
+  V.--RIDE TO BERNE,                                                    72
+
+  VI.-THE VALLEY OF THE AAR,                                            85
+
+  VII.--INTERLACHEN,                                                   101
+
+  VIII.--LAUTERBRUNNEN,                                                118
+
+  IX.--THE WENGERN ALP,                                                136
+
+  X.--GOING DOWN THE MOUNTAIN,                                         168
+
+  XI.--GLACIERS,                                                       181
+
+  XII.--ROLLO A COURIER,                                               196
+
+  XIII.--CONCLUSION,                                                   220
+
+
+  ENGRAVINGS.
+
+  MONT BLANC, (FRONTISPIECE.)                                         PAGE
+
+  THE COTTAGE,                                                          10
+
+  THE PREFECTURE OF POLICE,                                             25
+
+  IN THE CAB,                                                           40
+
+  THE DILIGENCE AT THE OFFICE,                                          77
+
+  THE DILIGENCE ON THE ROAD,                                            81
+
+  THE LAKE SHORE,                                                       97
+
+  VICINITY OF INTERLACHEN,                                             100
+
+  THE MOUNTAIN GIRL,                                                   147
+
+  THE FALL,                                                            173
+
+  THE CREVASSE,                                                        182
+
+  THE NARROW PATH,                                                     189
+
+  ASCENT OF MONT BLANC,                                                193
+
+[Illustration: THE COTTAGE. _See page 81_]
+
+
+
+
+ROLLO IN SWITZERLAND.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+GETTING A PASSPORT.
+
+
+The last day that Rollo spent in Paris, before he set out on his journey
+into Switzerland, he had an opportunity to acquire, by actual
+experience, some knowledge of the nature of the passport system.
+
+Before commencing the narrative of the adventures which he met with, it
+is necessary to premise that no person can travel among the different
+states and kingdoms on the continent of Europe without what is called a
+passport. The idea which prevails among all the governments of the
+continent is, that the people of each country are the subjects of the
+sovereign reigning there, and in some sense belong to him. They cannot
+leave their country without the written permission of the government,
+nor can they enter any other one without showing this permission and
+having it approved and stamped by the proper officers of the country to
+which they wish to go. There are, for example, at Paris ministers of all
+the different governments of Europe, residing in different parts of the
+city; and whoever wishes to leave France, to go into any other kingdom,
+must first go with his passport to the ministers of the countries which
+he intends to visit and get them to put their stamp upon it. This stamp
+represents the permission of the government whose minister affixes it
+that the traveller may enter the territory under their jurisdiction.
+Besides this, it is necessary to get permission from the authorities of
+Paris to leave the city. Nobody can leave France without this. This
+permission, too, like the others, is given by a stamp upon the passport.
+To get this stamp, the traveller must carry or send his passport to the
+great central police office of Paris, called the prefecture of police.
+Now, as the legations of the different governments and the prefecture of
+police are situated at very considerable distances from each other about
+the city, and as it usually takes some time to transact the business at
+each office, and especially as the inexperienced traveller often makes
+mistakes and goes to the wrong place, or gets at the right place at the
+wrong hour, it usually requires a whole day, and sometimes two days, to
+get his passport all right so as to allow of his setting out upon his
+journey. These explanations are necessary to enable the reader to
+understand what I now proceed to relate in respect to Rollo.
+
+One morning, while Rollo and Jennie were at breakfast with their father
+and mother, Rollo's uncle George came in and said that he had concluded
+to go and make a little tour in Switzerland. "I shall have three weeks,"
+said he, "if I can get away to-morrow; and that will give me time to
+take quite a little run among the mountains. I have come now to see if
+you will let Rollo go with me."
+
+"Yes, sir," said Rollo, very eagerly, and rising at once from his chair.
+"Yes, sir. Let me go with him. That's exactly the thing. Yes, sir."
+
+"Have you any objection?" said Mr. Holiday, quietly, turning towards
+Rollo's mother.
+
+"No," said Mrs. Holiday, speaking, however, in a very doubtful
+tone,--"no; I don't know that I have--any great objection."
+
+Whatever doubt and hesitation Mrs. Holiday might have had on the subject
+was dispelled when she came to look at Rollo and see how eager and
+earnest he was in his desire to go. So she gave her definitive consent.
+
+"How long do you think you will be gone?" said Mr. Holiday.
+
+"Three weeks, nearly," replied Mr. George. "Say twenty days."
+
+"And how much do you suppose it will cost you?" asked Mr. Holiday.
+
+"I have made a calculation," said Mr. George; "and I think it will cost
+me, if I go alone, about twenty-five francs a day for the whole time.
+There would, however, be a considerable saving in some things if two go
+together."
+
+"Then I will allow you, Rollo," replied Mr. Holiday, looking towards
+Rollo, "twenty-five francs a day for this excursion. If you spend any
+more than that, you must take it out of your past savings. If you do not
+spend it all, what is left when you come back is yours."
+
+"Yes, sir," said Rollo. "I think that will be a great plenty."
+
+"Twenty-five francs a day for twenty days," continued Mr. Holiday, "is
+five hundred francs. Bring me that bag of gold, Rollo, out of my
+secretary. Here is the key."
+
+So Rollo brought out the gold, and Mr. Holiday took from it twenty-five
+Napoleons. These he put in Rollo's purse.
+
+"There," said Mr. Holiday, "that's all I can do for you. For the rest
+you must take care of yourself."
+
+"How long will it take you to pack your trunk?" said Mr. George.
+
+"Five minutes," said Rollo, promptly, standing up erect as he said it
+and buttoning his jacket up to his chin.
+
+"Then put on your cap and come with me," said Mr. George.
+
+Rollo did so. He followed Mr. George down stairs to the door, and they
+both got into a small carriage which Mr. George had waiting there and
+drove away together towards Mr. George's hotel.
+
+"Now, Rollo," said Mr. George, "I have got a great deal to do to-day,
+and there are our passports to be stamped. I wonder if you could not
+attend to that."
+
+"Yes," said Rollo, "if you will only tell me what is to be done."
+
+"I don't myself know what is to be done," said Mr. George. "That's the
+difficulty. And I have not time to find out. I have got as much as I can
+possibly do until four o'clock; and then the office of the prefecture of
+police is closed. Now, if you can take the passports and find out what
+is to be done, and _do_ it, then we can go to-morrow; otherwise we must
+wait till next day."
+
+"Well," said Rollo, "I'll try."
+
+"You will find the passports, then, on my table at the hotel. I am going
+to get out at the next street and take another carriage to go in another
+direction. You can keep this carriage."
+
+"Very well," said Rollo.
+
+"You may make inquiries of any body you please," said Mr. George,
+"except your father and mother. We must not trouble your father with any
+business of any kind till he gets entirely well; and your mother would
+not know any thing about it at all. Perhaps the master of the hotel can
+tell you. You had better _ask_ him, at any rate."
+
+Here Mr. George pulled the string for the carriage to stop, as they had
+arrived at the corner of the street where he was to get out. The
+coachman drew up to the sidewalk and stopped. Mr. George opened the door
+and stepped out upon the curbstone, and then said, as he shut the
+door,--
+
+"Well, good by, Rollo. I hope you will have good luck. But, whatever
+happens, keep a quiet mind, and don't allow yourself to feel perplexed
+or troubled. If you don't succeed in getting the passports ready to-day
+we can attend to them to-morrow and then go the next day, which will
+answer nearly as well."
+
+Then, directing the coachman to drive to the hotel, Mr. George walked
+rapidly away.
+
+When Rollo reached the hotel he got the key of his uncle George's room,
+at the porter's lodge, and went immediately up to see if the passports
+were there. He found them, as his uncle had said, lying on the table.
+
+"Now," said Rollo, "the first thing I'll do is to find Carlos and see if
+he will go and help me get the passports stamped."[1]
+
+So, taking the passports in his hand, he went along the corridor till he
+came to the door leading to the apartments where Carlos lodged. There
+was a bell hanging by the side of the door. Rollo pulled this cord, and
+presently the courier came to the door.[2] Rollo inquired for Carlos,
+and the courier said that he would go and get him. In the mean time the
+courier asked Rollo to step in and take a seat. So Rollo went in. The
+room that he entered was a small one, and was used as an antechamber to
+the apartment; and it was very neatly and pleasantly furnished for such
+a purpose. There were a sofa and several chairs, and maps and pictures
+on the walls, and a table with writing materials on it in the centre.
+Rollo sat down upon the sofa. In a few minutes Carlos came.
+
+"Look here!" said Rollo, rising when Carlos came in. "See these
+passports! We're going to get them stamped. Will you go with me? I have
+got a carriage at the door."
+
+Here Rollo made a sort of whirling motion with his hand, advancing it
+forward at the same time as it rolled, to indicate the motion of a
+wheel. This was to signify to Carlos that they were going in a carriage.
+
+All that Carlos understood was, that Rollo was going somewhere, and that
+he wished him, Carlos, to go too. He seemed very much pleased with his
+invitation, and went eagerly back into the inner apartments. He returned
+in a very few minutes with his cap in his hand, evidently all ready to
+go.
+
+"Now," said Rollo, as they went out of the antechamber together, "the
+first thing is to go and ask the master of the hotel what we are to do."
+
+There was a very pleasant little room on the lower floor, on one side of
+the archway which formed the entrance into the court of the hotel from
+the street, that served the purpose of parlor, sitting room, counting
+room, and office. Thus it was used both by the master of the hotel
+himself and by his family. There was a desk at one side, where the
+master usually sat, with his books and papers before him. At the other
+side, near a window, his wife was often seated at her sewing; and there
+were frequently two or three little children playing about the floor
+with little wagons, or tops, or other toys. Rollo went to this room,
+occupying himself as he descended the stairs in trying to make up a
+French sentence that would ask his question in the shortest and simplest
+manner.
+
+He went in, and, going to the desk, held out his passports to the man
+who was sitting there, and said, in French,--
+
+"Passports. To Switzerland. Where to go to get them stamped?"
+
+"Ah," said the master of the hotel, taking the passports in his hand.
+"Yes, yes, yes. You must get them stamped. You must go to the Swiss
+legation and to the prefecture of police."
+
+Here Rollo pointed to a piece of paper that was lying on the desk and
+made signs of writing.
+
+"Ah, yes, yes, yes," said the man. "I will write you the address."
+
+So the man took a piece of paper and wrote upon the top of it the words
+"prefecture of police," saying, as he wrote it, that every coachman knew
+where that was. Then, underneath, he wrote the name of the street and
+number where the Swiss legation was; and, having done this, he gave the
+paper to Rollo.
+
+Rollo took the memorandum, and, thanking the man for his information,
+led Carlos out to the carriage.
+
+"Come, Carlos," said he; "now we are ready. I know where to go; but I
+don't know at all what we are to do when we get there. But then we shall
+find some other people there, I suppose, getting their passports
+stamped; and we can do as they do."
+
+Rollo had learned to place great reliance on the rule which his uncle
+George had given for his guidance in travelling; namely, to do as he saw
+other people do. It is, in fact, a very excellent rule.
+
+Carlos got into the carriage; while Rollo, looking upon the paper in
+order to be sure that he understood the words right, said, "To the
+prefecture of police."
+
+The coachman said, "Yes, yes;" and Rollo got into the coach. The
+coachman, without leaving his seat, reached his arm down and fastened
+the door and then drove away.
+
+He drove on through various crowded streets, which seemed to lead in
+towards the heart of the city, until at last the carriage came to the
+river. Rollo and Carlos looked out and saw the bridges, and the parapet
+wall which formed the river side of the street, with the book stalls,
+and picture stalls, and cake and fruit booths which had been established
+along the side of it, and the monstrous bathing houses which lay
+floating on the water below, all gayly painted and adorned with flags
+and little parterres of flowers; and the washing houses, with their long
+rows of windows, down close to the water, all filled with women, who
+were washing clothes by alternately plunging them in the water of the
+river and then banging them with clubs. These and a great many other
+similar objects attracted their attention as they rode along.
+
+If the reader of this book has the opportunity to look at a map of
+Paris, he will see that the River Seine, in passing through the town,
+forms two channels, which separate from each other so as to leave quite
+a large island between them. This island is completely covered with
+streets and buildings, some of which are very ancient and venerable.
+Here is the great Cathedral Church of Notre Dame; also the vast hospital
+called Hotel Dieu, where twelve thousand sick persons are received and
+taken care of every year. Here also is the prefecture of police--an
+enormous establishment, with courts, quadrangles, ranges, offices, and
+officers without number. In this establishment the records are kept and
+the business is transacted relating to all the departments of the police
+of the city; so that it is of itself quite a little town.
+
+The first indication which Rollo had that he had arrived at the place
+was the turning in of the coach under an arch, which opened in the
+middle of a very sombre and antique-looking edifice. The carriage, after
+passing through the arch, came into a court, where there were many other
+carriages standing. Soldiers were seen too, some coming and going and
+others standing guard. The carriage passed through this court, and then,
+going under another arch between two ponderous iron gates, it came into
+another court, much larger than the first. There were a great many
+carriages in this court, some moving in or out and others waiting.
+Rollo's carriage drove up to the farthest corner of the court; and there
+the coachman stopped and opened the door. Rollo got out. Carlos followed
+him.
+
+"Where do you suppose we are to go, Carlos?" said he. "Stop; I can see
+by the signs over the doors. Here it is. "Passports." This must be the
+place. We will go in here."
+
+Rollo accordingly went in, Carlos timidly following him. After crossing
+a sort of passage way, he opened another door, which ushered him at once
+into a very large hall, the aspect of which quite bewildered him. There
+were a great many desks and tables about the hall, with clerks writing
+at them, and people coming and going with passports and permits in their
+hands. Rollo stepped forward into the room, surveying the scene with
+great curiosity and wonder, when his attention was suddenly arrested by
+the voice of a soldier, who rose suddenly from his chair, and said,--
+
+"Your cap, young gentleman."
+
+Rollo immediately recollected that he had his cap on, while all the
+other people in the room were uncovered. He took his cap off at once,
+saying to the soldier at the same time, "Pardon, sir," which is the
+French mode of making an apology in such cases. The soldier then resumed
+his seat, and Rollo and Carlos walked on slowly up the hall.
+
+Nobody took any notice of them. In fact, every one seemed busy with his
+own concerns, except that in one part of the room there were several
+benches where a number of men and women were sitting as if they were
+waiting for something.
+
+Rollo advanced towards these seats, saying to Carlos,--
+
+"Carlos, let us sit down here a minute or two till we can think what we
+had better do. We can sit here, I know. These benches must be for any
+body."
+
+As soon as Rollo had taken his seat and began to cast his eyes about the
+room, he observed that among the other desks there was one with the
+words, "for foreigners," upon it, in large, gilt letters.
+
+"Carlos," said he, pointing to it, "that must be the place for us. We
+are foreigners: let us go there. We will give the passports to the man
+in that little pew."
+
+So Rollo rose, and, followed by Carlos, he went to the place. There was
+a long desk, with two or three clerks behind it, writing. At the end of
+this desk was a small enclosure, where a man sat who looked as though he
+had some authority. People would give him their passports, and he would
+write something on them and then pass them over to the clerks. Rollo
+waited a moment and then handed his passports in. The man took them,
+looked over them and then gave them back to Rollo, saying something in
+French which Rollo did not understand, and immediately passed to the
+next in order.
+
+"What did he say?" said Rollo, turning to Carlos.
+
+[Illustration: THE PREFECTURE OF POLICE.]
+
+"What's the reason he won't take your passports?" said Carlos.
+
+Although Rollo did not understand what the official said at the time of
+his speaking, still the words left a trace upon his ear, and in
+thinking upon them he recalled the words "American legation," and also
+the word "afterwards." While he was musing on the subject, quite
+perplexed, a pleasant-looking girl, who was standing there waiting for
+her turn, explained to him--speaking very slow in French, for she
+perceived that Rollo was a foreigner--as follows:--
+
+"He says that you must go first and get your passports stamped at the
+American legation and afterwards come here."
+
+"Where is the American legation?" said Rollo.
+
+"I don't know," said the girl.
+
+"Then I'll make the coachman find it for me," said Rollo. "Come, Carlos;
+we must go back."
+
+So saying, he thanked the girl for her kindness, and the two boys went
+out. As he was going out Rollo made up a French sentence to say to the
+coachman that he must drive to the American legation, and that he must
+find out where it was himself. He succeeded in communicating these
+directions to the coachman, and then he and Carlos got into the carriage
+and drove away.
+
+The coachman had some difficulty in learning where the American legation
+was, which occasioned some delay. Besides, the distance was
+considerable. It was nearly two miles to the place from the prefecture
+of police; so that it was some time before the carriage arrived there.
+In fact, Rollo had a very narrow escape in this stage of the affair; for
+he arrived at the American legation only about five minutes before the
+office was to be closed for the day. When he went to the porter's lodge
+to ask if that was the place where the office of the American legation
+was held, the woman who kept the lodge, and who was standing just
+outside the door at the time, instead of answering, went in to look at
+the clock.
+
+"Ah," said she, "you are just in time. I thought you were too late.
+Second story, right-hand door."
+
+"There's one thing good about the American legation, Carlos," said
+Rollo; "and that is, that they can talk English, I suppose."
+
+This was, indeed, a great advantage. Rollo found, when he went into the
+office of the legation, that the secretary not only could talk English,
+but that he was a very kindhearted and agreeable man. He talked with
+Rollo in English and with Carlos in Spanish. Both the boys were very
+much pleased with the reception they met with. The necessary stamps were
+promptly affixed to the passports; and then the boys, giving the
+secretary both an English and a Spanish good by, went down stairs to the
+carriage again. They directed the coachman to drive as quick as possible
+to the Swiss legation, showing him the address which Rollo's uncle had
+given them. They then got into the carriage, and the coachman drove
+away.
+
+"Now, Carlos," said Rollo, "we are all right; that is, if we only get to
+the Swiss legation before it is shut up."
+
+"He said he had been in Madrid," rejoined Carlos. "He was there three
+months."
+
+"I believe," added Rollo, "that uncle George said it did not close till
+three; and it is only two now."
+
+"And he knew the street my father lived in very well," said Carlos.
+
+Very soon the carriage stopped at the place which the coachman said was
+the Swiss legation. Rollo got out and went to the porter's lodge with
+the passports in his hand. The woman in charge knew at once what he
+wanted, and, without waiting to hear him finish the question which he
+began to ask, directed him "to the second story on the right."
+
+Rollo went up the staircase till he came to the door, and there pulled
+the cord.
+
+A clerk opened the door. Rollo held out the passports.
+
+"Enter there," said the clerk, in French, pointing to an inner door.
+
+Rollo went in and found there a very pleasant little room, with cases of
+books and papers around it, and maps and plans of Switzerland and of
+Swiss towns upon the wall. The clerk took the passports and asked the
+boys to sit down. In a few minutes the proper stamps were affixed to
+them both and the proper signatures added. The clerk then said that
+there was the sum of six francs to pay. Rollo paid the money, and then
+he and Carlos went down stairs.
+
+They now returned to the prefecture of police. They went in as they had
+done before, and gave the passports to the man who was seated in the
+little enclosure in the foreigner's part of the room. He took them,
+examined the new stamps which had been put upon them, and then said,
+"Very well. Take a seat a little minute."
+
+Rollo and Carlos sat down upon one of the benches to wait; but the
+little minute proved to be nearly half an hour. They were not tired of
+waiting, however, there was so much to amuse and interest them going on
+in the room.
+
+"I am going to watch and see what the foreigners do to get their
+passports," said Rollo, in an undertone, to Carlos; "for we must do the
+same."
+
+In thus watching, Rollo observed that from time to time a name was
+called by one of the clerks behind the desk, and then some of the
+persons waiting on the seats would rise and go to the place. After
+stopping there a few minutes, he would take his passport and carry it
+into an inner room to another desk, where something was done to it. Then
+he would bring it out to another place, where it was stamped once or
+twice by a man who seemed to have nothing else to do but to stamp every
+body's passport when they came out. By watching this process in the case
+of the others, Rollo knew exactly what to do when _his_ name was called;
+so that, in about half an hour from the time that he went into the
+office, he had the satisfaction of coming out and getting into his
+carriage with the passports all in order for the journey to Switzerland.
+
+When he got home and showed them to Mr. George, his uncle looked them
+over carefully; and, when he found that the stamp of the police was duly
+affixed to them both,--knowing, as he did, that those would not be put
+on till all the others were right,--he said,--
+
+"Well, Rollo, you've done it, I declare. I did not think you were so
+much of a man."
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 1: Carlos was a Spanish boy, who was residing at this time at
+the same hotel with Mr. George. The manner in which Rollo became
+acquainted with him is related in Rollo in Paris. Carlos did not
+understand English, nor Rollo Spanish; but when they were together they
+usually kept talking all the time, each in his own way.]
+
+[Footnote 2: A courier is a travelling servant and guide.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+CROSSING THE FRONTIER.
+
+
+On the morning when Mr. George and Rollo were about setting out for
+Switzerland, Rollo, having got every thing ready himself half an hour
+before the time, took out his map of Europe and asked his uncle George
+what route they were going to take. Mr. George was busy at that time
+putting the last things into his trunk and making ready to lock it up
+and strap it; so he could not come to Rollo to show him the route, but
+was obliged to describe it.
+
+"Have you found Paris?" said he.
+
+"Yes," said Rollo; "I have got my finger on it."
+
+"In the first place, then," said Mr. George, "there is a railway that
+goes east from Paris a hundred miles across France to Strasbourg on the
+Rhine. See if you can find Strasbourg on the Rhine."
+
+"Yes," said Rollo; "here it is."
+
+"Then," said Mr. George, "we take another railway and go south, up the
+Rhine, towards Switzerland."
+
+"_Down_ the Rhine," said Rollo, correcting his uncle; "it is _down_."
+
+"No," rejoined Mr. George. "It is down on the map; that is, it is down
+the page; but it is really _up_ the river. The Rhine flows to the north.
+It collects the waters of a hundred glaciers in Switzerland and carries
+them north into the North Sea."
+
+"Well," said Rollo.
+
+"This railway," continued Mr. George, "will take us up from Strasbourg,
+along the bank of the Rhine, to Basle, which is in Switzerland, just
+across the frontier. It is there, I suppose, that we shall have to show
+our passports; and then we shall know if you got them stamped right."
+
+"I did get them stamped right, I am very sure," said Rollo.
+
+"Boys are generally very sure that what they do is done right," rejoined
+Mr. George.
+
+Soon after this Mr. George and Rollo took their seats in the carriage,
+which had been for some time standing ready for them in the court yard
+of the inn, and drove to the Strasbourg station.
+
+Rollo was greatly interested and excited, when he arrived at the
+Strasbourg station, to see how extensive and magnificent it was. The
+carriage entered, with a train of other carriages, through a great iron
+gate and drew up at the front of a very spacious and grand-looking
+building. Porters, dressed in a sort of uniform, which gave them in some
+degree the appearance of soldiers, were ready to take the two trunks and
+carry them in. The young gentlemen followed the porters, and they soon
+found themselves ushered into an immense hall, very neatly and prettily
+arranged, with great maps of the various railways painted on the walls
+between the windows on the front side, and openings on the back side
+leading to ticket offices or waiting rooms. There were seats along the
+sides of this hall, with groups of neatly-dressed travellers sitting
+upon them. Other travellers were walking about, attending to their
+baggage or making inquiries of the porter or policemen. Others still
+were standing at the openings of the ticket offices buying their
+tickets. What chiefly struck Rollo's attention, however, and impressed
+his mind, was the air of silence, order, and decorum which prevailed and
+which gave to the station an aspect so different from that of an
+American station. It is true, the hall was very large, and there were a
+great many people in it going and coming; but they all walked decorously
+and quietly,--they spoke in an undertone,--and the presence of so many
+railway officials in their several uniforms, and of police officers with
+their badges, and here and there a soldier on guard, gave to the whole
+scene quite a solemn and imposing appearance.
+
+Rollo gazed about the apartment as he came in, surveying the various
+objects and groups that presented themselves to his view, until his eye
+rested upon a little party of travellers, consisting of a lady and two
+boys, who were standing together near a low railing, waiting for the
+gentleman who was with them to come back from the ticket office with
+their tickets. What chiefly attracted Rollo's attention, however, was a
+pretty little dog, with very long ears, and black, glossy hair, which
+one of the children held by a cord. The cord was attached to the dog's
+neck by a silver collar.
+
+Rollo looked at this group for a few minutes--his attention being
+particularly occupied by the dog,--and then turned again towards his
+uncle, or rather towards the place where his uncle had been standing;
+but he found, to his surprise, that he was gone.
+
+In a moment, however, he saw his uncle coming towards him. He was
+clasping his wallet and putting it in his pocket.
+
+"Uncle George," said he, "see that beautiful little dog!"
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George.
+
+"I wish I had such a dog as that to travel with me," said Rollo. "But,
+uncle George where are we to get our tickets?"
+
+"I've got mine," said Mr. George. "When I come to a railway station I
+always get my ticket the first thing, and look at the pretty little dogs
+afterwards."
+
+So saying, Mr. George took a newspaper out of his pocket and began to
+walk away, adding, as he went,--
+
+"I'll sit down here and read my newspaper till you have got your ticket,
+and then we will go into the waiting room."
+
+"But, uncle George," said Rollo, "why did not you get me a ticket when
+you got yours?"
+
+"Because," said Mr. George, "among other reasons, I did not know which
+class carriage you wished to go in."
+
+"Why, uncle George!" exclaimed Rollo, surprised. "I must go in the same
+carriage that you do of course."
+
+"Not of course," said Mr. George. "I have got a ticket in the first
+class; and I should like to have your company in my car very much if you
+choose to pay the price for a first-class ticket. But if you choose to
+take a second or a third-class ticket you will save, perhaps, half your
+money."
+
+So saying, Mr. George went away and left Rollo to himself.
+
+This was the way that Mr. George always treated Rollo when he was
+travelling with him. He left him to act for himself and to take care of
+himself in almost all the emergencies that occurred. He did this, not
+because he wished to save himself the trouble of taking care of a boy,
+but because he thought it was much better for boys early to learn to
+take care of themselves.
+
+The manner in which Mr. George thus threw the responsibility upon Rollo
+seemed sometimes to be a little blunt. One would suppose, in some of
+these cases, from the way in which he spoke and acted, that he did not
+care at all what became of Rollo, so coolly and with such an air of
+unconcern did he leave him to his own resources. In fact, Rollo was
+frequently at such times a little frightened, or at least perplexed, and
+often, at first, felt greatly at a loss to know what to do. But, on
+reflecting a little upon the subject, he usually soon succeeded in
+extricating himself from the difficulty; and then he was always quite
+proud of having done so, and was pleased with his uncle George for
+having given him the opportunity. So Mr. George, having learned by
+experience that Rollo liked, on the whole, to be treated in this way,
+always adopted it; and in carrying it out he sometimes spoke and acted
+in such a way as might, under other circumstances have appeared somewhat
+stern.
+
+The idea of taking a second-class car for himself in order to save a
+portion of his money, while his uncle went in one of the first-class,
+took Rollo's imagination strongly, and he was half inclined to adopt it.
+
+"On the whole," said he to himself, "I will not do it to-day; but I will
+some other day. And now I wonder which is the ticket office for
+Strasbourg."
+
+So saying, Rollo looked about the room and soon found the proper place
+to apply for his ticket. He procured a ticket without any difficulty,
+asking for it in French, with a pronunciation which, if it was not
+perfectly correct, was at least perfectly intelligible. As soon as he
+had received his ticket and had taken up his change he went to the bench
+where his uncle George was sitting and said that he was ready.
+
+"Well," said Mr. George, "then we'll go. I like to travel with a boy
+that is capable of taking care of himself and is willing to be treated
+like a man."
+
+Saying these words, Mr. George rose from his seat, and, after attending
+properly to the baggage, he and Rollo passed through a door guarded by a
+man in uniform, who required them to show him their tickets before he
+would allow them to pass, and then entered a spacious apartment which
+was reserved as the waiting room for the first-class passengers. This
+room was beautifully finished and richly adorned, and the splendid sofas
+and ottomans which were ranged about the sides of it were occupied by
+well-dressed ladies and gentlemen, carrying shawls, greatcoats, and
+small travelling bags upon their arms, and exhibiting other similar
+indications of their being travellers. Mr. George and Rollo took seats
+at a vacant place upon one of the sofas. In a few minutes an officer
+came and informed the company, in a very respectful manner, that the
+train was ready; whereupon they all rose from their seats and walked out
+upon the platform where the train was waiting. Here there were several
+railway servants, all dressed in uniform, whose business it was to
+conduct the passengers to the several cars, or carriages, as they call
+them, and open the doors. These carriages were entirely different in
+their construction from the long and open cars used in America, which
+form but one compartment, that extends through the whole length of the
+car. The French cars were like three elegant carriages, joined together
+in such a manner that, though the three formed but one car, they were
+still entirely distinct from each other. The seats in these carriages
+were very spacious, and they were richly stuffed and lined, so that they
+formed soft and luxurious places of repose. The railway porter opened
+one of the doors and admitted Mr. George and Rollo, and when they had
+entered he closed it again.
+
+"Ah," said Rollo, seating himself upon the soft cushion on one of the
+seats, "is not this superb? I am _very glad_ I did not take a
+second-class car."
+
+"And yet the second-class cars in France are very comfortable and very
+respectable," said Mr. George, "and they are very much cheaper."
+
+"How much should we have saved," asked Rollo, "in going to Strasbourg,
+if we had taken a second-class car?"
+
+"I don't know, precisely," said Mr. George. "We should have saved a
+great deal."
+
+The train now began to move; and, soon after it left the station, Mr.
+George took out his newspaper again and began to read. It was a copy of
+a very celebrated newspaper, called the London Times. Mr. George had
+another London paper which was full of humorous engravings. The name of
+it was Punch. Mr. George gave the Punch to Rollo, thinking that the
+pictures and caricatures in it might perhaps amuse him; but Rollo, after
+turning it over a moment, concluded that he should prefer to amuse
+himself by looking out the window.
+
+[Illustration: IN THE CAR.]
+
+Rollo saw a great many beautiful views and witnessed a great many
+strange and striking scenes as he was whirled onward by the train across
+the country from Paris towards Strasbourg. We cannot, however, stop to
+describe what he saw, but must hasten on to the Swiss frontier. The
+travellers arrived at Strasbourg in the evening. They spent the night at
+a hotel; and the next morning they took another railway which led along
+the bank of the Rhine, up the river, towards Switzerland. The country
+was magnificent. There was the river on one side, and a range of
+mountains rising sublimely in the interior on the other. The mountains
+were at a distance of several miles from the river; and the country
+between was an extremely fertile and luxuriant plain, covered with
+villages, castles, parks, pleasure grounds, gardens, and cultivated
+fields, which presented every where most enchanting pictures of rural
+beauty. This province is called Alsatia.
+
+The terminus of the railway was at the city of Basle, which lies just
+within the confines of Switzerland. A short distance before reaching the
+gates of Basle, the train stopped at what seemed at first to be a
+station. It was, however, only the custom house, where the trunks and
+passports were to be examined.
+
+"What are we to do here," asked Rollo.
+
+"_I_ am going to do what I see other people do," replied Mr. George.
+"You can do whatever you please."
+
+At this moment a guard, dressed, like all the other railway servants,
+in a sort of uniform, opened the door of the car in which Mr. George and
+Rollo were sitting, and said in a very respectful manner, in French,--
+
+"The custom house, gentlemen."
+
+Mr. George observed that the passengers were getting out from all the
+other cars; so he stepped out too, and Rollo followed him.
+
+When they reached the platform they observed that a company of porters
+were employed in carrying all the trunks and baggage from the cars to
+the custom house, and that the passengers were going into the custom
+house too, though by another door. Mr. George and Rollo went in with
+them. They found an office within, and a desk, where one or two
+secretaries sat and examined the passports of the travellers as they
+successively presented them. As fast as they were examined they were
+impressed with a new stamp, which denoted permission for the travellers
+to pass the Swiss frontier. The several travellers, as fast as their
+passports were examined, found right, and stamped, were allowed to pass
+between two soldiers through a door into another hall, where they found
+all the trunks and baggage arranged on a sort of counter, which extended
+around the centre of the room, so as to enclose a square place within.
+The custom-house officers who were to examine the baggage were within
+this enclosure, while the travellers who owned the baggage stood
+without. These last walked around the counter, looking at the trunks,
+boxes, bundles, and carpet bags that covered it, each selecting his own
+and opening the several parcels, in order that the officers within might
+examine them.
+
+The object of examining the trunks of passengers in this way is, to
+ascertain that they have not any _goods_ concealed in them. As a general
+thing, persons are not allowed to take _goods_ from one country to
+another without paying a tax for them. Such a tax is called technically
+a _duty_, and the avails of it go to support the government of the
+country which the goods are carried into. Travellers are allowed to take
+with them all that is necessary _for their own personal use, as
+travellers_, without paying any duty; but articles that are intended for
+sale as merchandise, or those which, though intended for the traveller's
+own use, are not strictly _personal_, are liable to pay duty. The
+principle is, that whatever the traveller requires for his own personal
+use, _in travelling_, is not liable to duty. What he does not so require
+must pay duty, no matter whether he intends to use it himself or to sell
+it.
+
+Many travellers do not understand this properly, and often get into
+difficulty by not understanding it, as we shall see in the sequel.
+
+Mr. George and Rollo went into the baggage room together, showing their
+passports as they passed through between the soldiers. They then walked
+slowly along the room, looking at the baggage, as it was arranged upon
+the counter, in search of their own.
+
+"I see _my_ trunk," said Mr. George, looking along at a little distance
+before him. "There it is."
+
+"And where do you suppose mine is?" asked Rollo.
+
+"I have not the least idea," said Mr. George. "I advise you to walk all
+around the room and see if you can find it; and when you find it, get it
+examined."
+
+Rollo, taking this advice, walked on, leaving Mr. George in the act of
+taking out his key in order to open his trunk for the purpose of
+allowing an officer to inspect it as soon as one should be ready.
+
+Rollo soon found his trunk. It was in a part of the room remote from his
+uncle's. Near his trunk was a very large one, which the officers were
+searching very thoroughly. They had found something in it which was not
+personal baggage and which the lady had not declared. Rollo could not
+see what the article was which the officers had found. It was something
+contained in a pretty box. The lady had put it into the bottom of her
+trunk. The officers had taken it out, and were now examining it. The
+lady stood by, seemingly in great distress.
+
+Rollo's attention, which had begun to be attracted by this scene, was,
+however, almost immediately called off from it by the voice of another
+officer, who pointed to his trunk and asked him if it was his.
+
+"Is that yours?" said the officer, in French.
+
+"Yes," replied Rollo, in the same language, "it is mine;" and so saying,
+he proceeded to take out his key and unlock the trunk.
+
+"Have you any thing to declare?" asked the man.
+
+Rollo looked perplexed. He did not know what the officer meant by asking
+him if he had any thing to declare. After a moment's hesitation he
+said,--
+
+"I don't know; but I will go ask my uncle."
+
+So Rollo went to the place where he had left his uncle George, and
+accosted him by saying,--
+
+"They want to know if I have any thing to _declare_. What do they mean?"
+
+"They mean whether you have any goods in your trunk that are liable to
+pay duty. Tell them no."
+
+So Rollo went back and told the officer that he had not any thing to
+declare. He then opened his trunk; but the officer, instead of examining
+it, shut down the lid, saying, "Very well;" and by means of a piece of
+chalk he marked it upon the top with some sort of character. A porter
+then took the trunk and carried it back to the train.
+
+Rollo perceived that the difficulty about the lady's baggage had been
+settled in some way or other, but he feared it was settled in a manner
+not very satisfactory to the lady herself; for, as the porters took up
+her trunk to carry it back, she looked quite displeased and out of
+humor.
+
+Rollo went back to the place where he had left his uncle George, and
+then they went together out to the platform. Here Rollo found the lady
+who had had difficulty about her baggage explaining the case to some
+friends that she found there. She seemed to be very indignant and angry,
+and was telling her story with great volubility. Rollo listened for a
+moment; but she spoke so rapidly that he could not understand what she
+said, as she spoke in French.
+
+"What does she say?" he asked, speaking to Mr. George.
+
+"She says," replied Mr. George, "that they were going to seize something
+that she had in her trunk because she did not declare it."
+
+"What does that mean?" said Rollo.
+
+"Why, the law is," said Mr. George, "that when people have any thing in
+their trunks that is dutiable, if they _declare_ it, that is,
+acknowledge that they have it and show it to the officers, then they
+have only to pay the duty, and they may carry the article in. But if
+they do not declare it, but hide it away somewhere in their trunks, and
+the officers find it there, then the thing is forfeited altogether. The
+officers seize it and sell it for the benefit of the government."
+
+"O, uncle George!" exclaimed Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George, "that is what they do; and it is right. If
+people wish to bring any thing that is subject to duty into any country
+they ought to be willing to pay the duty, and not, by refusing to pay,
+make other people pay more than their share."
+
+"If one man does not pay his duty," rejoined Rollo, "do the others have
+to pay more?"
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George, "in the end they do. At least I suppose so.
+Whatever the amount of money may be that is required for the expenses of
+government, if one man does not pay his share, the rest must make it up,
+I suppose."
+
+"They did not look into my trunk at all," said Rollo. "Why didn't they?
+I might have had ever so many things hid away there."
+
+"I suppose they knew from the circumstances of the case," said Mr.
+George, "that you would not be likely to have any smuggled goods in your
+trunk. They saw at once that you were a foreign boy, and knew that you
+must be coming to Switzerland only to make a tour, and that you could
+have no reason for wishing to smuggle any thing into the country. They
+scarcely looked into _my_ trunk at all."
+
+While Mr. George and Rollo had been holding this conversation they had
+returned to their places in the car, and very soon the train was in
+motion to take them into the town.
+
+Thus our travellers passed the Swiss frontier. In half an hour
+afterwards they were comfortably established at a large and splendid
+hotel called the Three Kings. The hotel has this name in three
+languages, English, French, and German, as people speaking those several
+languages come, in almost equal numbers, to Switzerland. Thus when you
+leave the station you may, in your directions to the coachman, say you
+wish to go to the Three Kings, or to the Trois Rois, or to the Drei
+Koenige, whichever you please. They all mean the same hotel--the best
+hotel in Basle.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+BASLE.
+
+
+The city of Basle stands upon the banks of the Rhine, on the northern
+frontier of Switzerland. The waters of the Rhine are gathered from
+hundreds of roaring and turbid torrents which come out, some from vast
+icy caverns in the glaciers, some from the melting debris of fallen
+avalanches, some from gushing fountains which break out suddenly through
+crevices in the rocks or yawning chasms, and some from dark and
+frightful ravines on the mountain sides, down which they foam and tumble
+perpetually, fed by vast fields of melting snow above. The waters of all
+these torrents, being gathered at last into one broad, and deep, and
+rapid stream, flow to a vast reservoir called the Lake of Constance,
+where they repose for a time, or, rather, move slowly and insensibly
+forward, enjoying a comparative quiescence which has all the
+characteristics and effects of repose. The waters enter this reservoir
+wild and turbid. They leave it calm and clear; and then, flowing
+rapidly for one hundred miles along the northern frontier of
+Switzerland, and receiving successively the waters of many other streams
+that have come from hundreds of other torrents and have been purified in
+the repose of other lakes extending over the whole northern slope of
+Switzerland, they form a broad and rapid river, which flows swiftly
+through Basle, and then, turning suddenly to the northward, bids Basle
+and Switzerland farewell together.
+
+"And then where does it go?" said Rollo to Mr. George when his uncle had
+explained this thus far to him.
+
+"Straight across the continent to the North Sea," said Mr. George.
+
+Thus the whole northern slope of Switzerland is drained by a system of
+waters which, when united at Basle, form the River Rhine.
+
+The morning after Mr. George and Rollo arrived at Basle they were
+looking out upon the River Rhine from the windows of the hotel.
+
+"What a swift river!" said Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George.
+
+"And how blue the water is!" continued Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George. "The water of the streams which come from the
+Swiss mountains is turbid at first and very gray from the grinding up
+of the rocks in the _moraines_ and glaciers and by the avalanches."
+
+"What is a moraine?" asked Rollo.
+
+"I will explain it to you one of these days," said Mr. George, "when you
+come to see one."
+
+"And a glacier," said Rollo; "what is that?"
+
+"I will explain that to you, too, some other time," said Mr. George,
+"but not now; for the breakfast will come in in a minute or two."
+
+"Well," said Rollo, "I can hear while I am eating my breakfast."
+
+"That may be," replied Mr. George; "but I cannot lecture very well while
+I am eating _my_ breakfast."
+
+Rollo laughed. "I did not think of that," said he.
+
+"What queer boats!" continued Rollo, looking out again upon the river.
+"And there is a long bridge leading over to the other side. May I go out
+and walk over on that bridge after breakfast?"
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George, "you may go any where you please."
+
+"But suppose I should get lost," said Rollo. "What should I do then?"
+
+"I don't know," said Mr. George, "unless you should ask somebody to tell
+you the way to the Three Kings."
+
+"But perhaps they would not understand English," said Rollo.
+
+"Then you must say _Trois Rois_,[3a]
+which is the French name for the hotel," rejoined Mr. George.
+
+"But perhaps they would not understand French," said Rollo.
+
+"No," replied Mr. George; "I think it probable they would not; for
+people talk German generally in this part of Switzerland. In that case
+you must ask the way to _Drei Koenige_."[3b]
+
+Here the waiter came in with the breakfast. It consisted of a pot of
+coffee, another of boiled milk, an omelette, some excellent cakes, and
+some honey. There was a long table extending up and down the room, which
+was a very large and handsome apartment, and there were besides several
+round tables in corners and in pleasant places near the windows. The
+breakfast for Mr. George and Rollo was put upon one of the round tables;
+and, in sitting down to it, Rollo took pains to place himself in such a
+manner that he could look out the window and see the water while he was
+eating.
+
+"What a dreadful river that would be to fall into!" said Rollo. "It runs
+so swift and looks so angry!"
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George. "It runs swift because the descent is very
+great. Switzerland is very high; and the water, in running from it,
+flows very swiftly."
+
+"I did not know that Switzerland was all high," said Rollo. "I knew that
+the mountains were high; but the valleys must be low."
+
+"No," said Mr. George; "it is all high. The bottoms of the valleys are
+higher than the tops of the mountains in many other countries. In going
+into Switzerland, we go up hill nearly all the way; and so, even when we
+are at the bottom of the deepest valleys in Switzerland, we are up very
+high. There is Chamouni, for example, which is a deep valley near the
+foot of Mont Blanc. The bottom of that valley is six or seven times as
+high as the top of the Palisades on the North River."
+
+"O, uncle George!" exclaimed Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "and it is so with all the Swiss valleys; and,
+accordingly, the water that comes down through them has a great descent
+to make in getting to the sea. Thus there are a great many falls, and
+cascades, and rapids; and, even in those places where the rivers run
+smoothly, the current is very swift and very strong."
+
+While Mr. George and Rollo were eating their breakfast the attention of
+Rollo was occupied partly by the prospect of the river as he saw it
+through the open window, and partly by the various groups of travellers
+who were constantly coming into the room, or going out, or taking their
+breakfasts in little parties at the tables. Some who had finished their
+breakfasts were looking at maps and guide books which they had spread
+out before them on the tables. The room was very large, and very
+beautiful; and, as it was lighted on the back side by a row of wide and
+lofty windows which looked out upon the river, it wore a very bright and
+cheerful expression. At one end of it were glass doors, which led into
+another room very similar to this, as it likewise had windows looking
+out upon the river. This room was used as a sort of sitting room and
+reading room. There was a table in the centre, with newspapers, some
+French, some English, and some German, lying upon it. Rollo determined
+to go into this room as soon as he had finished his breakfast to see who
+was there and what they were doing.
+
+"Rollo," said Mr. George, after a short pause, "do you wish to travel in
+Switzerland intelligently or blindly?"
+
+"What do you mean by that?" asked Rollo.
+
+"Why, do you wish to understand something of the general features of the
+country first, so as to know always, as we go travelling on, where you
+are, and where you are going, and what you are to expect to see, or
+would you rather not trouble yourself at all about this, but take things
+as they come along, and enjoy them as you see them, without thinking or
+caring what is to come next."
+
+"Which is the best way?" asked Rollo.
+
+"Either is a very good way," replied Mr. George. "There is a pleasure in
+understanding and anticipating, and there is also a pleasure in
+wondering what is to come next and meeting with surprises. You can take
+your choice."
+
+Rollo reflected a moment, and then he said that he thought he should
+like best to understand.
+
+"Very well," said Mr. George. "Then I will explain to you the general
+features of Switzerland. Switzerland--or at least that portion of it
+which is the chief scene of the rambles of tourists and
+travellers--consists substantially of a long and deep valley, extending
+from east to west through the centre, and bordered by a range of
+mountains on each side. The range of mountains on the northern side of
+this valley is, of course, towards Germany; the one on the southern
+side is towards Italy. On the north side of the northern range of
+mountains is a broad slope of land, extending a hundred miles towards
+the German frontier. On the southern side of the southern range of
+mountains is a steep and narrow slope, extending to the Italian
+frontier.
+
+"Thus we may say," continued Mr. George, "that Switzerland consists
+substantially of a broad northern slope of land and a narrow southern
+slope, with a deep valley between them. Do you understand this?"
+
+"Yes," said Rollo. "If I had some damp sand, and a little wooden shovel,
+I think I could make it."
+
+"People do make models of the Swiss valleys and mountains," said Mr.
+George. "In fact, they have maps of Switzerland, embossed with all the
+mountains in relief; and I wish very much that we had one here to look
+at."
+
+"There is one here," said Rollo, his face brightening up very luminously
+as he spoke. "I saw it hanging up in the gallery, and I did not know
+what it was. It must be that. I'll go and show it to you after
+breakfast."
+
+"I am very glad," said Mr. George. "I wished to see one very much. We
+will go and see it immediately after breakfast. But now let me tell you
+a little more about the country. You must not imagine that the northern
+slope, as I called it, is one smooth and uniform surface of descending
+land. There are mountains, and valleys, and lakes, and precipices, and
+waterfalls, and every other variety of mountain scenery scattered all
+over it, making it a most picturesque and romantic region. It is,
+however, on the whole, a slope. It begins with comparatively smooth and
+level land on the north and it terminates in a range of lofty mountain
+crests on the south; and you have to go over this crest somewhere, by
+some of the steep and difficult passes that cross it, to get into the
+central valley. We are on the margin of this slope now. When we leave
+here and strike into the heart of Switzerland we shall be gradually
+ascending it. I am going first to a place called Interlachen, which is
+in a deep valley far up this slope, just under the ridge of mountains.
+Interlachen is surrounded, in fact, by mountains, and a great many
+pleasant excursions can be made from it. We shall stop there a few days
+and make excursions, and then cross over by some of the mountain passes
+into the valley."
+
+"Well," said Rollo, in a tone of great satisfaction. "I shall like that;
+I should like to go over a mountain pass. Shall we go in a carriage, or
+on horseback."
+
+"That depends upon which of the passes we take," said Mr. George. "Some
+of them are carriage roads, some are bridle paths; and you ride over on
+mules or horses. Others are too steep and dangerous to ride over in any
+way. You have to go on foot, climbing up zigzag paths cut out of the
+rock, and over great patches of snow that horses and mules would sink
+into."
+
+"Let's go in one of those," said Rollo, straightening himself up.
+
+"Sometimes the path becomes narrower and narrower," continued Mr.
+George, "until it is finally lost among the rocks, and you have to
+clamber around the point of some rocky cliff a thousand feet in the air,
+with scarcely any thing but the jagged roughness of the rocks to cling
+to."
+
+"Yes, sir," said Rollo, eagerly. "Yes, sir. Let's go there. That's just
+the kind of road I want to go in."
+
+"Well, we'll see," said Mr. George. "The first thing is to go to
+Interlachen. That is in the heart of the mountains, and very near the
+passes which lead over into the valley. When we get there we will study
+the guide book and the maps and determine which way to go."
+
+"And after you get into the valley," said Rollo, "shall you go across
+it, and go over the mountains on the other side, into Italy?"
+
+"I don't know," said Mr. George. "Perhaps we shall not have time. I may
+think it is best to spend the time in rambling about among the mountains
+and glaciers near the head of the valley, where I believe is to be found
+the most stupendous scenery in all Switzerland."
+
+The breakfast was now nearly finished, though the process of eating it
+had been a good deal impeded by the conversation, so large a share of it
+having fallen to Mr. George. Mr. George, however, explained to Rollo
+that their first day's journey from Basle would be south, towards Berne,
+the capital of the country--a city which was situated near the centre of
+the northern slope which Mr. George had described.
+
+"Do we go by a railway?" asked Rollo.
+
+"No," said Mr. George; "by a diligence."
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 3a-3b: Mr. George, in speaking these words, did not pronounce
+them as you would suppose from the manner in which they are written. He
+pronounced them very much as if they were spelled Tru-ah Ru-ah. In the
+same manner, the German words, Drei Koenige, he pronounced as if they
+were spelled Dhrai Ker-nig-ger.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+THE DILIGENCE.
+
+
+A diligence is a sort of stage coach used in France and Switzerland, and
+generally on the continent of Europe. It is constructed very
+differently, however, from an American stage coach, being divided into
+four distinct compartments. Rollo had seen a diligence in Paris, and so
+he could understand very easily the conversation which ensued between
+himself and his uncle in respect to the seats which they should take in
+the one in which they were to travel to Berne. In order, however, to
+enable the reader of this book to understand it, I must here give a
+brief description of this kind of vehicle. The engraving on page 77 is a
+very faithful representation of one of them. There are three windows in
+the side of it. Each of these windows leads to a different compartment
+of the coach. In addition to these three compartments, there is, over
+the foremost of these, on the top of the coach, another, making four in
+all. This compartment on the top is called the _banquette_.
+
+These coaches are so large that they have a conductor. The man who
+drives sometimes sits on a small seat placed in front of the banquette,
+and sometimes he rides on one of the horses. In either case, however, he
+has nothing to do but to attend to his team. The passengers and the
+baggage are all under the conductor's care.
+
+The compartment immediately beneath the banquette, which is the front
+compartment of the body of the coach, is called the _coupe_. The coupe
+extends across the whole coach, from one side to the other; but it is
+quite narrow. It has only one seat,--a seat facing the horses,--with
+places upon it for three passengers. There are windows in front, by
+which the passengers can look out under the coachman's seat when there
+is a coachman's seat there. The doors leading to the coupe are in the
+sides.
+
+The compartment immediately behind the coupe is called the _interior_.
+It is entirely separate from the coupe. There are two seats, which
+extend from one side of the coach to the other, and have places upon
+them for three passengers each, making six in all. The three passengers
+who sit on one of these seats must, of course, ride with their backs to
+the horses. The doors leading to the interior are in the sides. In fact,
+the interior has within exactly the appearance of a common hackney
+coach, with seats for six passengers.
+
+Behind the interior is the fourth compartment, which is called the
+_rotonde_. It is like a short omnibus. The door is behind, and the seats
+are on the sides. This omnibus compartment is so short that there is
+only room for three people on each side, and the seats are not very
+comfortable.
+
+Very genteel people, who wish to be secluded and to ride somewhat in
+style, take the coupe. The seats in the coupe are very comfortable, and
+there is a very good opportunity to see the country through the front
+and side windows. The price is much higher, however, for seats in the
+coupe than in any other part of the diligence.
+
+The mass of common travellers generally take places in the interior. The
+seats there are comfortable, only there is not a very good opportunity
+to see the country; for there are only two windows, one on each side, in
+the top of the door.
+
+People who do not care much about the style in which they travel, but
+only desire to have the best possible opportunity to view the country
+and to have an amusing time, generally go up to the banquette. The
+places here are cheaper than they are even in the interior, and very
+much cheaper than they are in the coupe.
+
+The cheapest place of all, however, is in the rotonde, which is the
+omnibus-like compartment, in the end of the diligence, behind. This
+compartment is generally filled with laborers, soldiers, and servants;
+and sometimes nurses and children are put here.
+
+The baggage is always stored upon the top of the diligence, behind the
+banquette, and directly over the interior and the rotonde. It is packed
+away very carefully there, and is protected by a strong leather
+covering, which is well strapped down over it. All these things you see
+plainly represented in the engraving.
+
+We now return to the conversation which was held between Rollo and Mr.
+George at the close of their breakfast.
+
+"I have got some letters to write after breakfast," said Mr. George,
+"and I should like to go directly to my room and write them. So I wish
+you would find out when the diligence goes next to Berne, and take
+places in it for you and me."
+
+"Well," said Rollo, "I will; only how shall I do it? Where shall I go?"
+
+"I don't know any thing about it," replied Mr. George. "The guide book
+says that there is a diligence from Basle to Berne; and I suppose there
+is an office for it somewhere about town. Do you think you can find
+it?"
+
+"I'll try," said Rollo. "But how do we take seats in it? Is there a book
+for us to write our names in, with the place where they are to call for
+us?"
+
+"I do not know any thing about it," said Mr. George. "All I know is,
+that I want to go to Berne with you some way or other in the diligence,
+and I wish to have you plan and arrange it all."
+
+"Well," said Rollo, "I will, if I can find out. Only tell me what places
+I shall take."
+
+"I don't care particularly about that," replied Mr. George; "only let it
+be where we can see best. It must be either in the coupe or in the
+banquette. We can't see at all, scarcely, in the other compartments."
+
+"Well," said Rollo, "I should like to be where I can see. But would you
+rather it would be in the coupe, or in the banquette?"
+
+"That is just as you please," replied Mr. George. "There are some
+advantages in being in the banquette."
+
+"What are they?" asked Rollo.
+
+"There are four advantages," replied Mr. George. "First, it is up very
+high, and is all open, so that you have a most excellent chance to see."
+
+"Yes," said Rollo. "I shall like that."
+
+"The second advantage," said Mr. George, "is, that it costs less. The
+places in the banquette are quite cheap."
+
+"Yes," said Rollo. "I like that. So we can save some of our money."
+
+"The third advantage," continued Mr. George, "is, that we have a great
+deal better opportunity to hear talking there. There are usually five
+persons in that part of the coach--the coachman, the conductor, and
+three passengers. That is, there will be one passenger besides you and
+me. He will probably be talking with the conductor part of the time, and
+the conductor will be talking with the coachman, and we shall be amused
+by hearing what they say."
+
+"But there are _six_ persons in the interior," said Rollo, "to talk."
+
+"True," replied Mr. George; "but, then, they are usually not so sociable
+there as they are up on the banquette. Besides, the noise of the wheels
+on the hard gravel roads is so loud there that we cannot hear very well.
+Then, moreover, when we stop to change horses, the hostlers and
+postilions come out, and our coachman and conductor often have a great
+deal of amusing conversation with them, which we can hear from the
+banquette; but we could not hear it, or see the process of harnessing
+and unharnessing, from the interior, nor even very well from the
+coupe."
+
+"Well," said Rollo. "I like that. But that makes only three advantages.
+You said there were four."
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George. "But as to the fourth, I do not know whether you
+will consider it an advantage or not."
+
+"What is it?" said Rollo. "I've no doubt but I shall."
+
+"Why, in getting up and down to and from the banquette you will have a
+great deal of hard climbing to do."
+
+"Yes," said Rollo. "I shall like that. They are all advantages--very
+great advantages indeed."
+
+So Rollo fully determined in his own mind that he would take places on
+the banquette. He thought that there was one disadvantage in that part
+of the coach; and that was, that in case of storm the rain would drive
+in directly upon them; but he found in the end that an excellent
+provision was made against this contingency.
+
+The young gentlemen had now finished their breakfasts; and so they rose
+and went out to what Rollo called the gallery, to see the embossed map
+of Switzerland which he said that he had seen hanging there. The plan of
+this hotel was very peculiar. In the centre of it was a very large,
+open hall, almost like a court, only it was covered above with a roof
+and lighted by a skylight. Around this hall there was, in each story, an
+open gallery, with a railing on one side, over which you could look down
+to the floor below; and on the other side, at short intervals, there
+were doors leading to the various apartments. Between these doors, and
+against the walls, were hanging maps, plans, pictures, and other
+embellishments, which gave to these galleries a very attractive
+appearance. Here and there, too, on the different stories, there were
+sofas or other seats, with persons sitting upon them. Some were sewing,
+and some were attending children who were playing near. At the two ends
+of the hotel there were broad staircases connected with these galleries
+and leading from one to the other. Besides the galleries there were long
+corridors, extending each way from the centre of the building to ranges
+of apartments situated in the wings. The hotel, in fact, was very
+spacious, and it was very admirably arranged.
+
+Rollo conducted Mr. George to the third story; and there, hanging
+against the wall, he found the embossed map of Switzerland which he had
+described. Mr. George and Rollo took this map down from its nail, and,
+seating themselves upon a settee which was near, they held it before
+them and examined it very attentively for some time. Mr. George showed
+Rollo the great central valley of Switzerland, with the ranges of
+mountains on each side of it. He showed him, too, the great slope of
+land which extended over the whole northern part of Switzerland. It was
+bounded on the north by the River Rhine and the frontier, and on the
+south by the great range of mountains which separated it from the
+valley. He showed him, too, the numerous lakes which were scattered over
+the surface of it.
+
+"You see," said he, "that the waters which come out from the glaciers
+and the snow fields, and down through the chasms and ravines in the
+mountain sides, flow on till they come to some valley or place of
+comparatively low land; and they spread all over this depression, and
+flow into it more and more until they fill it up and make a lake there.
+When the lake is full the surplus waters run off clear wherever they
+find a channel."
+
+"Is that the way the lakes are formed?" asked Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George. "You will see that it is so when we get up to
+them."
+
+"_Up_ to them?" said Rollo. "You mean down to them."
+
+"No," said Mr. George. "The lakes are up quite high. Many of them are
+far up the sides of the mountains. The water, in leaving them, runs very
+rapidly, showing that there is a great descent in the land where they
+are flowing. Sometimes, in fact, these streams and rivers, after they
+leave the lakes, form great cataracts and cascades in getting down to
+the level country below.
+
+"But now," continued Mr. George, "I must go to my writing, and you may
+see what you can do about the diligence."
+
+So Mr. George went away towards his room, leaving Rollo to hang up the
+embossed map and then to determine how he should go to work to ascertain
+what he was to do.
+
+Rollo found less difficulty than he had anticipated in procuring places
+in the diligence. He first inquired of the clerk, at the office of the
+hotel. The clerk offered to send a porter with him to show him the way
+to the diligence office; but Rollo said that he would prefer to go
+himself alone, if the clerk would tell him in what part of the town it
+was.
+
+So the clerk gave Rollo the necessary direction, and Rollo went forth.
+
+He found the diligence office very easily. In fact, he recognized the
+place at once when he came near it, by seeing several diligences
+standing before it along the street. He entered under an archway. On
+entering, he observed several doors leading to various offices, with
+inscriptions over each containing the names of the various towns to
+which the several diligences were going. At length he found BERNE.
+
+Rollo did not know precisely in what way the business at such an office
+was to be transacted; but he had learned from past experience that all
+that was necessary in order to make himself understood in such cases
+was, to speak the principal words that were involved in the meaning that
+he was intending to convey, without attempting to make full and complete
+sentences of them. In cases where he adopted this mode of speaking he
+was accustomed usually to begin by saying that he could not speak French
+very well.
+
+Accordingly, in this instance he went to the place where the clerk was
+sitting and said,--
+
+"I do not speak French very well. Diligence to Berne. Two places.
+Banquette."
+
+"Yes, yes," said the clerk. "I understand very well."
+
+The clerk then told him what the price would be of two seats on the
+banquette, and Rollo paid the money. The clerk then made out and signed
+two very formal receipts and gave them to Rollo.
+
+Rollo walked back towards the hotel, studying his receipts by the way;
+but he could not understand them, as they were in the German language.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+RIDE TO BERNE.
+
+
+At length the time arrived for the departure of our two travellers from
+Basle. A porter from the hotel carried their trunks to the diligence
+office, while Rollo and Mr. George walked. When they got to the place
+they found the diligence in the archway, and several men were employed
+in carrying up trunks and carpet bags to the top of it and stowing them
+away there. In doing this they ascended and descended by means of a long
+step ladder. The men took Mr. George's trunk and Rollo's and packed them
+away with the rest. There were several persons who looked like
+passengers standing near, waiting, apparently, for the diligence to be
+ready.
+
+Among them were two children, a girl and a boy, who seemed to be about
+Rollo's age. They were plainly but neatly dressed. They were sitting on
+a chest. The boy had a shawl over his arm, and the girl had a small
+morocco travelling bag in her hand.
+
+The girl looked a moment at Rollo as he came up the archway, and then
+cast her eyes down again. Her eyes were blue, and they were large and
+beautiful and full of meaning. There was a certain gentleness in the
+expression of her countenance which led Rollo to think that she must be
+a kindhearted and amiable girl. The boy looked at Rollo too, and
+followed him some time with his eyes, gazing at him as he came up the
+archway with a look of interest and curiosity.
+
+It was not yet quite time for the diligence to set out. In fact, the
+horses were not yet harnessed to it; and during the interval Rollo and
+Mr. George stood by, watching the process of getting the coach ready for
+the journey, and contrasting the appearance of the vehicle, and of the
+men employed about it, and the arrangements which they were making, with
+the corresponding particulars in the setting off of a stage coach as
+they had witnessed it in America. While doing this Rollo walked about
+the premises a little; and at length, finding himself near the two
+children on the chest, he concluded to venture to accost the boy.
+
+"Are you going in this diligence?" said he, speaking in French.
+
+"Yes," replied the boy.
+
+"So am I," said Rollo. "Can you speak English?"
+
+"Yes," said the boy. He spoke the yes in English.
+
+"Are you going to Berne?" asked Rollo.
+
+"I don't know," said the boy.
+
+The girl, who had been looking at Rollo during this conversation, here
+spoke, and said that they _were_ going to Berne.
+
+"We are going in that diligence," said she.
+
+"So am I," said Rollo. "I have got a seat on the banquette."
+
+"Yes," rejoined the boy. "I wished to have a seat on the banquette, so
+that I could see; but the seats were all engaged before my father went
+to the office; so we are going in the coupe; but I don't like it half so
+well."
+
+"Nor I," said the girl.
+
+"Where is your father?" asked Rollo.
+
+"He is gone," replied the boy, "with mother to buy something at a shop a
+little way from here. Lottie and I were tired, and so we preferred to
+stay here. But they are coming back pretty soon."
+
+"Are you all going to ride in the coupe?" said Rollo; "because, there
+will not be room. There is only room for three in the coupe."
+
+"I know it," said Lottie; "but then, as two of us are children, father
+thought that we could get along. Father had a plan for getting Adolphus
+a seat in the interior; but he was not willing to go there, because, he
+said, he could not see."
+
+Just at this moment the father and mother of Adolphus and Lottie came up
+the archway into the court yard where the diligence was standing. The
+horses had been brought out some minutes before and were now nearly
+harnessed. The gentleman seemed to be quite in a hurry as he came up;
+and, seeing that the horses were nearly ready, he said,--
+
+"Now, children, get in and take your places as soon as possible."
+
+So they all went to the coach, and the gentleman attempted to open the
+door leading to the coupe. It was fastened.
+
+"Conductor," said he, speaking very eagerly to the conductor, who was
+standing near, "open this door!"
+
+"There is plenty of time," said the conductor. "There is no need of
+haste."
+
+However, in obedience to the request of the gentleman, the conductor
+opened the door; and the gentleman, helping his wife in, first,
+afterwards lifted the children in, and then got in himself. The
+conductor shut the door.
+
+"Come, uncle George," said Rollo, "is not it time for us to get up to
+our places?"
+
+"No," said Mr. George. "They will tell us when the proper time comes."
+
+So Mr. George and Rollo remained quietly standing by the side of the
+diligence while the hostlers finished harnessing the horses. Rollo
+during this time was examining with great interest the little steps and
+projections on the side of the coach by which he expected that he and
+Mr. George were to climb up to their places.
+
+It turned out in the end, however, that he was disappointed in his
+expectation of having a good climb; for, when the conductor was ready
+for the banquette passengers to take their places, he brought the step
+ladder and planted it against the side of the vehicle, and Mr. George
+and Rollo went up as easily as they would have gone up stairs.
+
+When the passengers were seated the step ladder was taken away, and a
+moment afterwards the postilion started the horses forward, and the
+ponderous vehicle began to move down the archway, the clattering of the
+horses' hoofs and the lumbering noise of the wheels sounding very loud
+in consequence of the echoes and reverberations produced by the sides
+and vaulting of the archway. As soon as the diligence reached the street
+the postilion began to crack his whip to the right and left in the most
+loud and vehement manner, and the coach went thundering on through the
+narrow streets of the town, driving every thing from before it as if it
+were a railway train going express.
+
+[Illustration: THE DILIGENCE AT THE OFFICE.]
+
+"Uncle George," exclaimed Rollo, "they have forgotten the conductor!"
+
+Rollo was, in fact, quite concerned for a few minutes lest the conductor
+should have been left behind. He knew where this official's proper seat
+was; namely, at the left end of the banquette--that is, at the right
+hand, as seen in the engraving; and as he was not there, and as he knew
+that all the other seats were full, he presumed, of course, that he had
+been left behind. He was relieved of these fears, however, very soon;
+for, to his great astonishment, he suddenly perceived the head of the
+conductor coming up the side of the coach, followed gradually by the
+rest of his body as he climbed up to his place. Rollo wondered how he
+could manage to get on and climb up, especially as the coach was at this
+time thundering along a descending portion of the street with a speed
+and uproar that was terrific.
+
+Rollo, though at first very much astonished at this performance of the
+conductor, afterwards ceased to wonder at it; for he found that the
+conductor could ascend and descend to and from his seat at any time
+without any difficulty, even while the horses were going at the top of
+their speed. If the snapper of the coachman's whip got caught in the
+harness so that he could not liberate it, as it often did on the road,
+the conductor would climb down, run forward to the horses, set the
+snapper free, fall back to the coach, catch hold of the side and climb
+up, the coachman cracking his whip as soon as it was freed, and urging
+on his horses to a gallop, without troubling himself at all to consider
+how the conductor was to get up again.
+
+But to return to the story. When Rollo found that the conductor was safe
+he amused himself by looking to the right and left into the windows of
+the houses at the second story. His seat was so high that he could do
+this very easily. Many of these windows were open, and persons were
+sitting at them, sewing or reading. At some of them groups of children
+were standing. They were looking out to see the diligence go by. The
+street was so narrow that Rollo found himself very near these persons as
+he passed by.
+
+"A little nearer," said he to his uncle George, "and I could shake hands
+with them."
+
+In a very few minutes the coach passed under a great arched gateway
+leading through the wall of the city, and thence over a sort of
+drawbridge which spanned the moat. Immediately afterwards it entered a
+region of smooth, green fields, and pretty rural houses, and gardens,
+which presented on every side very charming pictures to the view.
+
+"Now, uncle George," said Rollo, "won't we have a magnificent ride?"
+
+Rollo was not disappointed in his anticipations. He found the ride to
+Berne a very magnificent one indeed. The road was smooth and hard as a
+floor. From side to side it was flat and level, and all the ascents
+which it made were so gradual that the horses trotted on at their full
+speed, without any cessation, sweeping around long and graceful curves,
+which brought continually into view new landscapes, each one, as it
+seemed, more varied and beautiful than the one which had preceded it.
+From his lofty seat on the banquette Rollo looked abroad over a very
+wide extent of country; and when the coach stopped at the villages or
+post houses to change horses, he could look down with great advantage
+upon the fresh teams as they were brought out and upon the groups of
+hostlers and post boys employed in shifting the harness. He could hear,
+too, all that they said, though they generally talked so fast, and
+mingled their words with so much laughter and fun, that Rollo found that
+he could understand but little.
+
+[Illustration: THE DILIGENCE ON THE ROAD.]
+
+Rollo was particularly struck, as he was whirled swiftly along the road,
+by the appearance of the Swiss houses. They were very large, and were
+covered with a very broad roof, which extended so far over the walls on
+every side as to appear like a great, square, broad-brimmed hat.
+Under this roof were platforms projecting from the house, one on each
+story, like piazzas. These piazzas were very broad. They were bordered
+by balustrades on the outer edge, and were used for sheds, store houses,
+and tool rooms. There were wood piles, wagons, harrows, and other
+farming implements, bundles of straw, and stones piled up here and there
+upon them. In fact, the Swiss cottager has his house, and barn, and
+sheds, and outhouses all under one roof; and what there is not room for
+within he stores without upon these platforms.
+
+These houses were situated in the midst of the most beautiful fields and
+gardens, the whole forming a series of very charming landscapes. The
+view, too, as seen in many places along the road, was bounded at the
+south by a long line of snow-covered mountains, which glittered
+brilliantly in the sun and imparted an inexpressible fascination to the
+prospect.
+
+The diligence arrived at the city of Berne near night, and Mr. George
+and Rollo remained in that city until the next day at noon. Rollo was
+extremely interested in walking about the streets in the morning. In
+almost all the streets of Berne the second stories of the houses are
+extended over the sidewalks, the superincumbent masonry being supported
+by massive square pillars, built up from the edge of the sidewalk
+below, and by arches above. Of course, in going along the sidewalk the
+passenger is sheltered by the roof above him, and in the worst weather
+he can go all over the city without being exposed to the rain excepting
+at the street crossings. This arrangement is a very convenient one,
+certainly, for rainy weather; but it gives the streets a very gloomy and
+forbidding appearance at other times.
+
+Still Rollo was very much amused in walking along under these arcades;
+the more so because, in addition to the shops in the buildings
+themselves, there were usually stalls and stands, between and around the
+pillars, filled with curious things of all sorts, which were for sale;
+so that in walking along he had a display of goods on both sides of him.
+These goods consisted of toys, books, pictures, tools, implements, and
+curiosities, including a multitude of things which Rollo had never seen
+or heard of before.
+
+Berne is famous for bears. The bear is, in fact, the emblem of the city,
+and of the canton, or province, in which Berne is situated. There is a
+story that in very ancient times, when Berchtold, the original founder
+of the city, was beginning to build the walls, a monstrous bear came out
+of the woods to attack him. Berchtold, with the assistance of the men
+who were at work with him on the walls, killed the bear. They gloried
+greatly in this exploit, and they preserved the skin and claws of the
+bear for a long time as the trophy of their victory. Afterwards they
+made the bear their emblem. They painted the figure of the animal on
+their standards. They made images and effigies of him to ornament their
+streets, and squares, and fountains, and public buildings. They stamped
+the image of him on their coins; and, to this day, you see figures of
+the bear every where in Berne. Carved images of Bruin in every attitude
+are for sale in the shops; and, not contented with these lifeless
+symbols, the people of Berne for a long time had a pit, or den, similar
+to those in the Garden of Plants at Paris, where they kept living
+specimens for a long time.[4] This den was just without the gates of the
+city. The guide book which Rollo read as he was coming into Berne, to
+see what it said about the city, stated that there was one bear in the
+garden at that time; and he wished very much to go and see it, but he
+did not have a very convenient opportunity.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 4: See Rollo in Paris for an account of these dens for bears
+in the Garden of Plants.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+THE VALLEY OF THE AAR.
+
+
+After spending several hours in Berne and wondering greatly at the many
+strange things which they saw there, Mr. George and Rollo took their
+passage in another diligence for Thun, which was a town still farther in
+towards the heart of Switzerland on the way to Interlachen. It took only
+three or four hours to go to Thun. The town, they found, was small,
+compact, surrounded by walls, and very delightfully situated at the end
+of a long lake, which extended from that point very far in among the
+mountains. There was one thing very remarkable about Thun, at least it
+seemed very remarkable to Rollo, although he found afterwards that it
+was a common thing in Switzerland; and that was, that the hotels were
+all outside the town.
+
+There was reason in this; for the town--though it was a very curious and
+romantic place, with a church on a terraced hill at one end of it,
+surrounded with a beautifully ornamented church yard, with seats and
+bowers here and there at the corners of it, which overlooked the country
+and commanded charming views of the lake and mountains--was still, in
+the main, very contracted and confined, and hotels would not be
+pleasantly situated in it. A little beyond the town, however, on the
+margin of the lake, was a delightful region of gardens and pleasure
+grounds, with four or five very handsome hotels among them. Mr. George
+and Rollo stopped to dine at one of these hotels. From the windows of it
+there were the most brilliant and charming prospects of the lake and the
+surrounding mountains on one side, and on the other a view of the town
+and of two or three very pretty little steamboats lying at a pier.
+
+Behind the hotel the land very soon ascended rapidly, the ascent
+terminating at last in crags and precipices which towered at a vast
+height above. Among these heights Rollo saw a sort of pavilion, built on
+a small projecting point of a hill, four or five hundred feet, perhaps,
+above the hotel.
+
+"Do you think any body can get up there?" said he to his uncle George.
+
+They were standing, when Rollo said this, on the back piazza of the
+hotel--a very beautiful place, looking out upon green lawns and
+gardens.
+
+"Certainly," said Mr. George. "They would not have built such a lookout
+as that without making a way to get to it."
+
+"Then let's go up there," said Rollo, "and see what we can see."
+
+"Very well," said Mr. George; "lead the way, and I will follow."
+
+"Well, come," said Rollo, moving on. "I am not sure that I can find the
+way; but I'll try."
+
+So saying, Rollo chose from among several broad and smooth gravel walks
+which he saw diverging from the house in various directions, among the
+groves and copses of shrubbery that ornamented the grounds behind it,
+the one which seemed to turn most nearly in the right direction; and,
+running along before, he was soon out of sight of the hotel. The path
+meandered gracefully among shrubs, and flowers, and pretty green
+openings a little way, and then began to ascend the hill, sometimes in a
+winding course and sometimes by zigzags. There were seats placed here
+and there at proper points for rest. At length both Rollo and Mr. George
+were surprised to find coming suddenly into view a small building, which
+stood in a very romantic and picturesque spot about half way up the
+hill, which proved, on examination, to be a little chapel. It was an
+Episcopal chapel, built here by the proprietor of the hotel for the
+accommodation of his English guests on Sundays. There are a great many
+English travellers in Switzerland, more perhaps from that nation than
+from any other, and the English people are very much pleased with the
+opportunity to worship God, when in foreign lands, according to the
+rites and usages of their own national church. Americans, on the other
+hand, when travelling, generally prefer to attend churches in which the
+worship is conducted according to the usages of the people in whose
+country they chance to be.
+
+After looking at the little English chapel as long as they wished, our
+two travellers went on up the path. The ascent soon became very steep,
+and the way led through close woods, which allowed of no opportunity to
+see, except that now and then a brief glimpse was obtained of the hotel,
+with the gardens and grounds around it, and the gentlemen and ladies
+walking upon the piazza in the rear of it.
+
+After about a quarter of an hour of hard climbing up a wild and romantic
+but very smooth and well made path the two young gentlemen reached the
+pavilion. Here a boundless and most magnificent prospect was opened
+before them. Rollo was bewildered with astonishment and delight; and
+even Mr. George, who was usually very cool and quiet on such occasions,
+seemed greatly pleased. I shall not, however, attempt to describe the
+view; for, though a fine view from an elevated point among lakes and
+mountains is a very exciting thing actually to witness and enjoy, it is
+by no means an interesting thing to describe.
+
+"What a magnificent prospect!" said Rollo.
+
+Rollo, as he said this, was looking down at the more near and distinctly
+detailed objects which were to be seen directly below him at the bottom
+of the hill, towards the right--such as the hotels, the gardens, the
+roads, the pier, the steamboats, and the town. The attention of Mr.
+George, however, was attracted by the more grand and sublime features of
+the view which were to be seen in the other direction--the lake, the
+forests, and the mountains. The mountains that were near were darkened
+by the groves of evergreens that clothed their sides, and some of them
+were made more sombre still by the shadows of floating clouds; while
+over these there towered the glittering summits of more distant ranges,
+white with everlasting snow.
+
+"How cold they look!" said Mr. George; "how icy cold!"
+
+"How little they look! how very little! See, uncle George," said Rollo,
+pointing; "they are really good large steamboats, and you would think
+they were only playthings."
+
+"There are some men walking along the road," continued Rollo, "just like
+little dots."
+
+"See the banks of snow on that mountain, Rollo!" said Mr. George. "They
+look like drifts of dry, light snow, as they shine in the sun on a
+bitter cold winter day."
+
+"Why doesn't it melt?" asked Rollo.
+
+"Because it is up so high," said Mr. George. "As you go up in the air
+from the surface of the earth the air grows colder and colder, until at
+last, when you get up to a certain height, it is cold enough to freeze."
+
+"Is it so every where?" asked Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George. "If you were to put some water into a vial and
+tie it to the tail of a kite, and send it up into the air _high enough_,
+the water would freeze, and when it came down you would find the water
+turned into ice."
+
+"Should I?" asked Rollo. "Would it if I were to send the kite up in
+America?"
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George, "any where, all over the earth."
+
+"I mean to try it," said Rollo.
+
+"You can't try it very well," replied Mr. George; "for you could not
+easily send a kite up high enough. It would take a very long time."
+
+"How long?" asked Rollo.
+
+"Why, that depends upon what part of the earth it is that you make the
+experiment in," replied Mr. George. "At the equator, where the sun is
+very hot, you would have to go up very high. In temperate regions, as in
+Switzerland or in most parts of America, you would not have to go up so
+high; and farther north, near the pole, it is only necessary to go up a
+very little way."
+
+"And how high must we go up in Switzerland?" asked Rollo.
+
+"About eight or nine thousand feet, I believe," said Mr. George. "Some
+of the Alpine summits are sixteen thousand feet high; and so the ice and
+snow lie upon the upper portions of them all the time."
+
+The young gentlemen remained some time longer in the pavilion, gazing
+upon the stupendous scenery around them, and looking down the lake which
+lay before them in the bottom of a deep and narrow valley and extended
+in among the mountains much farther than they could see.
+
+"We are going along that lake," said Rollo "are we not?"
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "it is the Lake of Thun."
+
+"We are going in one of the steamboats that are lying at the pier, are
+we not?" said Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "unless you would prefer going along the shore."
+
+"Is there a road along the shore?" asked Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "there are two, I believe, one on each side of
+the lake. These roads run along at the foot of the mountains, far
+enough, however, above the level of the lake to enable us to enjoy
+excellent views of it. But we cannot see the mountains from it as well
+as we can from the lake itself."
+
+"Then," said Rollo, "if we go by the road we can see the lake best; and
+if we go by the steamboat we can see the mountains best."
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "that is the state of the case, exactly."
+
+"Then I think we had better go by the boat," said Rollo; "for I would
+rather see the mountains."
+
+"So would I," rejoined Mr. George. "Besides, there will be plenty of
+occasions on which we shall be obliged to go by land; therefore we had
+better go by water when we can, in order to have a variety. And, if we
+are going in the steamer, we must go back to the hotel; for it is almost
+time for the steamer to sail."
+
+So Mr. George led the way, and Rollo followed, down the path by which
+they had come up. As they thus walked down they continued the
+conversation which they had commenced in the pavilion.
+
+"What shall we come to when we get to the end of the lake?" asked Rollo.
+"Does the lake reach to the end of the valley?"
+
+"No," said Mr. George. "The valley is about fifty miles long, I suppose,
+and this lake is only about fifteen miles long; but there is another in
+the same valley a little farther on. The valley is the valley of the
+Aar. That is the name of the stream which flows through it. It is one of
+the most remarkable valleys in Switzerland. I have been studying it in
+the guide book and on the map. It is about fifty miles long, and it
+winds in a serpentine manner between two lofty ranges of mountains, so
+steep and high that it is not possible to make any road over them."
+
+"None at all?" asked Rollo.
+
+"No," replied Mr. George. "They cannot make any road--nothing but bridle
+paths. The mountains, too, that border the valley along the sides close
+across at the head of it; so that if you go up the valley at all you
+cannot get out of it without climbing over the mountains; unless,
+indeed, you are willing to come back the same way that you went."
+
+"I would rather climb over the mountains," said Rollo.
+
+"So would I," said Mr. George. "The beginning of this valley," continued
+Mr. George "is in the very heart of the most mountainous part of
+Switzerland, and the River Aar commences there in prodigious cascades
+and waterfalls, which come down over the cliffs and precipices or gush
+out from enormous crevices and chasms, and make quite a river at the
+very beginning."
+
+"Can we go there and see them?" said Rollo.
+
+"Yes," replied Mr. George; "I mean to go and see them. The place is
+called Meyringen. The cascades and waterfalls at Meyringen are
+wonderful. One of them, the guide book says, makes dreadful work in
+times of flood. It comes out from a great chasm in the rocks in the face
+of a precipice at a vast height from the ground; and, in times of flood,
+it brings down such a mass of sand, gravel, stones, rubbish, and black
+mud as sometimes to threaten to overwhelm the village."
+
+"Is there a village there?" asked Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "the village of Meyringen. This waterfall comes
+down out of the mountain just back of the village; and they have had to
+build up an immense wall, a quarter of a mile long and twenty or thirty
+feet high, to keep the torrent of mud and sand out of the streets. Once
+it broke through and filled up the church four feet deep all over the
+floor with mud, and gravel, and stones. Some of the stones were bigger
+than your head."
+
+Rollo was very much interested in hearing this account of the Fall of
+Alpbach,--for that was the name of this unmanageable cataract,--and
+expressed a very strong desire to go to Meyringen and see it.
+
+"We will go," said Mr. George. "It lies at the head of the valley of the
+Aar, which we are now entering. The River Aar, after being formed by
+these cataracts and cascades, flows through the valley, making two long
+lakes in its course. This Lake of Thun is the second one. The other is
+the Lake of Brienz. The upper end of the Lake of Thun is a few miles
+only from the lower end of the Lake of Brienz; and Interlachen is
+between the two."
+
+[Illustration: THE LAKE SHORE.]
+
+About an hour after this conversation our two travellers might have been
+seen sitting together upon the deck of the little steamer which was
+paddling its way merrily along the lake, and occupying themselves in
+viewing and talking about the extraordinary spectacle presented by
+the slopes of the mountains which bordered the lake on either side, and
+which seemed to shut the lake in, as it were, between two immense walls
+of green.
+
+Rollo was extremely interested, as he sailed along, in viewing these
+mountain slopes, exploring the landscape carefully in every part,
+studying out all the objects of interest which it contained--the
+forests, the cultivated fields, the great Swiss cottages, the
+pasturages, the little chalets, the zigzag paths leading up and down,
+and all the other picturesque and striking characteristics of a Swiss
+landscape.
+
+The slopes were very beautiful, and densely inhabited; and they were
+really very steep, though they looked much steeper than they were, as
+all hills and slopes do to a person looking upon them from below and
+facing them.
+
+"It seems," said Rollo to Mr. George, "as if two broad strips of green
+country were set up on edge for us to see them as we are sailing along."
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "with all the houses, farms, pasturages, flocks
+of sheep, and herds of cattle clinging to the sides of them."
+
+The chief charm, however, of the views which presented themselves to the
+young travellers as they glided along the lake was the glittering
+refulgence of the snow-clad peaks which appeared here and there through
+openings among the nearer mountains. The view of these peaks was
+occasionally obstructed by masses of vapor which were floating along the
+tops of the mountain ranges; but still they were seen frequently enough
+to fill the minds both of Rollo and Mr. George with wonder and delight.
+
+After gazing at this scenery for nearly an hour until his curiosity in
+respect to it was in some measure satisfied, Rollo began to turn his
+attention to his fellow-travellers on board the steamer. These
+travellers were seated singly or in groups about the deck of the little
+vessel, and they were all tourists, journeying for pleasure. Here was a
+small group of young men--students apparently--with knapsacks on their
+backs, spyglasses strapped to their sides, and maps and guide books in
+their hands. There was a young lady seated with her father, both dressed
+for the mountains, and gazing with curiosity and wonder on the views
+presented along the shores of the lake. In another place was a family of
+parents and children--the father studying a map which he had spread open
+upon his knees, the mother sitting by his side, silent and thoughtful,
+as if her mind was far away, dwelling, perhaps, upon the little ones
+which had been left at home because they were too young to be taken on
+such a tour. Some of these people were talking French, some English, and
+some German. Rollo looked about upon these various groups for a time,
+and then said,--
+
+"Are all these travellers going to see the mountains, do you suppose,
+uncle George?"
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "I suppose so. There is very little travelling
+in Switzerland except pleasure travelling. I presume they are all going
+to see the mountains and the other scenery of the country."
+
+"I should not think that the ladies could climb up the mountains very
+high," said Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George, "they can; for in almost all places where people
+wish to go there are excellent paths. Where it is too steep for roads
+the mountaineers make zigzag paths, not only for travellers, but for
+themselves, in order that they may go up and down to their chalets and
+pasturages. The people of the country have been making and improving
+these paths now for two thousand years or more, and they have got them
+at last in very excellent condition; so that, except the steepness, they
+are very easy and very comfortable."
+
+"Why, uncle George," said Rollo, "look!"
+
+So saying, Rollo pointed his finger out over the water. The mountains
+had suddenly and entirely disappeared. The vapors and clouds which they
+had seen floating among them half an hour before had become dense and
+continuous, and had, moreover, settled down over the whole face of the
+country in such a manner as to shut out the mountains wholly from view.
+Nothing was to be seen but the water of the lake, with a margin of low
+and level but beautiful country along the shores of it.
+
+In fact, there was nothing but the smallness of the steamer and the
+costumes and character of the passengers to prevent Rollo and Mr. George
+from supposing that they were steaming it from New York to Albany, up
+the North River, in America.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+INTERLACHEN.
+
+
+About eight o'clock on the morning after our travellers arrived at
+Interlachen Rollo awoke, and, rising from his bed, he walked to the
+window and looked out, expecting to find before him a very grand
+prospect of Alpine scenery; but there was nothing of the kind to be
+seen.
+
+Before the house was a garden, with a broad gravel walk leading out
+through it to the road. On each side of this walk were parterres of
+shrubbery and flowers. There were also two side approaches, wide enough
+for roads. They came from the main road through great open gates, at a
+little distance to the right and left of the hotel. The main road, which
+was broad and perfectly level, extended in front of the house; and two
+or three Swiss peasants, in strange costume, were passing by. Beyond
+were green and level fields, with fruit and forest trees rising here and
+there among them, forming a very rich and attractive landscape. The sky
+was covered with clouds, though they were very fleecy and bright, and in
+one place the sun seemed just ready to break through.
+
+"I thought Interlachen was among the mountains," said Rollo to himself;
+"and here I am in the middle of a flat plain.
+
+"I will go and see uncle George," he continued after a moment's pause,
+"and ask him what it means."
+
+So Rollo opened the door of his room and went out into what in America
+would be called the entry, or hall. He found himself in a long corridor
+paved with stone, and having broad stone staircases leading up and down
+from it to the different stories. In one place there was a passage way
+which led to a window that seemed to be on the back side of the hotel.
+Rollo went there to look out, in order to see what the prospect might be
+in that direction.
+
+He saw first the gardens and grounds of the hotel, extending for a short
+distance in the rear of the building, and beyond them he obtained
+glimpses of a rapidly running stream. The water was very turbid. It
+boiled and whirled incessantly as it swept swiftly along the channel.
+
+"Ah," said Rollo, "that is the River Aar, I suppose, flowing through
+Interlachen from one lake to the other. I thought I should see it
+somewhere here; but I did not know whether it was before the hotels or
+behind them."
+
+A short distance beyond the stream Rollo saw the lower part of a
+perpendicular precipice of gray rock. All except the lower part of this
+precipice was concealed by the fogs and clouds, which seemed to settle
+down so low upon the landscape in all directions as to conceal almost
+every thing but the surface of the ground.
+
+"I wonder how high that precipice is," said Rollo to himself.
+
+"I wonder whether I could climb up to the top of it," he continued,
+still talking to himself, "if I could only find some way to get across
+the river? There must be some way, I suppose. Perhaps there is a
+bridge."
+
+Rollo then turned his eye upward to look at the clouds. In one place
+there seemed to be a break among them, and the fleecy masses around the
+break were slowly moving along. The place where Rollo was looking was
+about the middle of the sky; that is, about midway between the horizon
+and the zenith.[5] While Rollo was looking at this break, which seemed,
+while he looked at it, to brighten up and open more and more, he saw
+suddenly, to his utter amazement, a large green tree burst into view in
+the midst of it, and then disappear again a moment afterwards as a fresh
+mass of cloudy vapor drifted over. Rollo was perfectly bewildered with
+astonishment. To see a green tree, clear and distinct in form and bright
+with the beams of the sun which just at that instant caught upon it,
+breaking out to view suddenly high up among the clouds of the sky,
+seemed truly an astonishing spectacle. Rollo had scarcely recovered from
+the first emotion of his surprise before the clouds parted again, wider
+than before, and brought into view, first a large mass of foliage, which
+formed the termination of a grove of trees; then a portion of a smooth,
+green field, with a flock of sheep feeding upon it, clinging apparently
+to the steep slope like flies to a wall; and finally a house, with a
+little blue smoke curling from the chimney. Rollo was perfectly beside
+himself with astonishment and delight at this spectacle; and he
+determined immediately to go and ask his uncle to come and see.
+
+He accordingly left the window and made all haste to his uncle's door.
+He knocked. His uncle said, "Come in." Rollo opened the door. His uncle
+was standing by the window of his room, looking out. This was on the
+front side of the hotel.
+
+"Uncle George!" said Rollo, "Uncle George! Come and look out with me at
+the back window. There is a flock of sheep feeding in a green field away
+up in the sky!"
+
+"Come and look here!" said Mr. George.
+
+So Rollo went to the window where Mr. George was standing, and his
+astonishment at what he saw was even greater than before. The clouds had
+separated into great fleecy masses and were slowly drifting away, while
+through the openings that appeared in them there were seen bright and
+beautiful views of groves, green pasturages, smiling little hamlets and
+villages, green fields, and here and there dark forests of evergreen
+trees, with peaks of rocks or steep precipices peeping out among them.
+At one place, through an opening or gap in the nearer mountains, there
+could be seen far back towards the horizon the broad sides and towering
+peak of a distant summit, which seemed to be wholly formed of vast
+masses of ice and snow, and which glittered with an inexpressible
+brilliancy under the rays of the morning sun.
+
+"That is the Jungfrau,"[6] said Mr. George.
+
+"That great icy mountain?" said Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George.
+
+"Can we get up to the top of it?" asked Rollo.
+
+"No," said Mr. George. "People tried for more than a thousand years to
+get to the top of the Jungfrau before they could succeed."
+
+"And did they succeed at last?" asked Rollo.
+
+"Yes," replied Mr. George. "You see there is a sort of goatlike animal,
+called the _chamois_,[7] which the peasants and mountaineers are very
+fond of hunting. These animals are great climbers, and they get up among
+the highest peaks and into the most dangerous places; and the hunters,
+in going into such places after them, become at last very expert in
+climbing, and sometimes they become ambitious of surpassing each other,
+and each one wishes to see how high he can get. So one time, about
+twenty-five years ago, a party of six of these hunters undertook to get
+to the top of the Jungfrau, and at last they succeeded. But it was a
+dreadfully difficult and dangerous operation. It was fifteen miles'
+steep climbing."
+
+"Not steep climbing all the way," said Rollo.
+
+"No," said Mr. George, "I suppose not all the way. There must have been
+some up-and-down work, and some perhaps tolerably level, for the first
+ten miles; but the last five must have been a perpetual scramble among
+rocks and ice and over vast drifts of snow, with immense avalanches
+thundering down the mountain sides all around them."
+
+"I wish I could go and see them," said Rollo.
+
+"You can go," replied Mr. George. "There is a most excellent chance to
+see the face of the Jungfrau very near; for there is another mountain
+this side of it, with a narrow valley between. This other mountain is
+called the Wengern Alp. It is about two thirds the height of the
+Jungfrau, and is so near it that from the top of it, or near the top,
+you can see the whole side of the Jungfrau rising right before you and
+filling half the sky, and you can see and hear the avalanches thundering
+down the sides of it all day long."
+
+Rollo was quite excited at this account, and was very eager to set off
+as soon as possible to go up the Wengern Alp.
+
+"How do we get there?" asked he.
+
+"You see this great gap in the near mountains," said Mr. George,
+pointing.
+
+"Yes," said Rollo.
+
+"That gap," continued Mr. George, "is the mouth of a valley. I have been
+studying it out this morning in my guide book. There is a good carriage
+road leading up this valley. It is called the valley of the Luetschine,
+because that is the name of the river which comes down through it. In
+going up this valley for the first two or three miles we are going
+directly towards the Jungfrau."
+
+"Yes," said Rollo. "That I can see very plainly."
+
+This was indeed very obvious; for the Jungfrau, from the windows of the
+hotel, was seen through the great gap in the near mountains which Mr.
+George had pointed out as the mouth of the valley of the Luetschine. In
+fact, had it not been for that gap in the near mountains, the great
+snow-covered summit could not have been seen from the hotels at all.
+
+"We go up that valley," continued Mr. George, "about three miles, and
+then we come to a fork in it; that is, to a place where the valley
+divides into two branches, one turning off to the right and the other to
+the left. Directly ahead there is an enormous precipice, I don't know
+how many thousand feet high, of bare rock.
+
+"One of these branch valleys," continued Mr. George, "leads up to one
+side of the Wengern Alp and the Jungfrau, and the other to the other
+side. We may take the right-hand valley and go up five or six miles to
+Lauterbrunnen, or we may take the left-hand branch and go up to
+Grindelwald. Which way do you think we had better go?"
+
+"I do not know," said Rollo. "Can we get up to the Wengern Alp from
+either valley?"
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George. "We can go up from one of these valleys, and
+then, after stopping as long as we choose on the Alp, we can continue
+our journey and so come down into the other, and thus see them both. One
+of the valleys is famous for two great glaciers that descend into it.
+The other is famous for immense waterfalls that come down over the
+precipices at the sides."
+
+"Let us go first and see the waterfalls," said Rollo.
+
+"Well," said Mr. George, "we will. We shall have to turn to the right in
+that case and go to Lauterbrunnen. When we get to Lauterbrunnen we shall
+have to leave our carriage and take horses to go up to the Wengern Alp.
+The way is by a steep path, formed in zigzags, right up the sides of the
+mountains."
+
+"How far is it?" asked Rollo.
+
+"I don't know precisely," said Mr. George; "but it is a good many miles.
+It takes, at any rate, several hours to go up. We can stop at the
+Wengern Alp as long as we please and look at the Jungfrau and the
+avalanches, and after that go on down into the valley of Grindelwald on
+the other side, and so come home."
+
+"But how can we get our carriage?" asked Rollo.
+
+"O, they send the carriage back, I believe," said Mr. George, "from
+Lauterbrunnen to the great precipice at the fork of the valley."
+
+Mr. George, having thus finished his account of the topography of the
+route to the Wengern Alp, went away from the window and returned to the
+table where he had been employed in writing some letters just before
+Rollo had come in. Rollo was left at the window. He leaned his arms upon
+the sill, and, looking down to the area below, amused himself with
+observing what was going on there.
+
+There were several persons standing or sitting upon the piazza.
+Presently he heard the sound of wheels. A carriage came driving up
+towards the door. A postilion was riding upon one of the horses. There
+were two servants sitting on the box; and there was a seat behind, where
+another servant and the lady's maid were sitting. The carriage stopped,
+the door was opened, and a lady and gentleman with two boys, all dressed
+like travellers, got out, and were ushered into the house with great
+civility by the landlord. The baggage was taken off and carried in, and
+then the carriage was driven away round the corner.
+
+This was an English nobleman and his family, who were making the tour of
+Switzerland, and were going to spend a few days at Interlachen on the
+way.
+
+As soon as the bustle produced by this arrival had subsided, Rollo's
+attention was attracted by a very sweet musical sound which seemed to be
+produced by something coming along the road.
+
+"What can that be, I wonder?" said he to himself.
+
+Then in a little louder tone, but without turning round,--
+
+"Uncle George, here is some music coming. What do you think it is?"
+
+Mr. George paused a moment to listen, and then went on with his writing.
+
+The mystery was soon solved; for, in a few moments after Rollo had
+spoken, he saw a large flock of goats coming along. These goats all had
+bells upon their necks,--or at least a great many of them were so
+provided,--and these bells, having a soft and sweet tone, produced, when
+their sounds were blended together, an enchanting harmony. The goats
+walked demurely along, driven by one or two goatherds who were following
+them, and soon disappeared behind the trees and shrubbery. Very soon
+after their forms had disappeared from view the music of their bells
+began to grow fainter and fainter until it ceased to be heard.
+
+"It was a flock of goats going by," said Rollo.
+
+Rollo next heard voices; and, turning in the direction whence the sounds
+proceeded, he saw a party of young men coming up towards the door of the
+hotel along the gravelled avenue. This was a party of German students
+making the tour of Switzerland on foot. They had knapsacks on their
+backs, and stout walking sticks and guide books in their hands. They
+came up talking and laughing together, full of hilarity and glee; and
+yet some of them seemed very tired. They had walked six miles that
+morning, and were now going to stop at this hotel for breakfast. Rollo
+listened to their conversation; but, as it was in the German language,
+he could not understand one word that they were saying.
+
+"Dear me!" said he; "I wish that every body would talk either French or
+English."
+
+As soon as the students had passed on into the inn Rollo heard another
+carriage coming. He looked and found that it was a _char a banc_. A char
+a banc is a small, one-horse carriage, which looks upon the outside very
+much like what is called a carryall in America, only it is much
+narrower. It differs very much, however, from a carryall within; for it
+has only a seat for two persons, and that is placed sideways, with the
+end to the horses. You ride in it, therefore, sideways, as you do in an
+omnibus, only in an omnibus there are two seats, one on each side, and
+the door is at the end; whereas in the char a banc there is a seat only
+on one side, and the door is opposite to it on the other. The seat is
+large and comfortable, being very much like a short sofa. Some people,
+therefore, describe a char a banc as a sofa placed endwise on wheels.
+
+The char a banc stopped before the door of the hotel; and the coachman,
+getting down from his seat in front, opened the door. A very
+dignified-looking gentleman stepped out; and, after standing a moment on
+the piazza to give some directions about his portmanteau, he went into
+the office of the hotel.
+
+Rollo, looking down from the window of his uncle George's room, could
+see all these things very plainly; for the roof which protected the
+piazza from the rain was up at the top of the hotel, and therefore did
+not interfere with his view.
+
+After having made the above-described observations from the window,
+Rollo began to think that he would like to go down below to the door,
+where he thought he could see what was going on to better advantage.
+
+"Uncle George," said he, "when are you going down to breakfast?"
+
+"In about half an hour," said Mr. George. "I have got another letter to
+write."
+
+"Then I believe I will go down now," said Rollo, "and wait there till
+you come."
+
+"Very well," said Mr. George; "and please order breakfast, and then it
+will be all ready when I get my letter finished."
+
+"What shall I order?" asked Rollo.
+
+"I don't know," said Mr. George. "I don't know what it is the fashion to
+have for breakfast here. Ask them what they have got, and then choose
+for yourself and me."
+
+So Rollo, putting on his cap, went down stairs.
+
+He stood for a little time on the piazza, looking at the strange dresses
+of the people that were sitting or standing there and listening to the
+outlandish sounds of the foreign languages which they were speaking. At
+a little distance out upon the gravel walk, near the shrubbery, were a
+party of guides waiting to be hired for mountain excursions. Some of
+these guides were talking with travellers, forming plans, or agreeing
+upon the terms on which they were to serve. Rollo, after observing these
+groups a little time, walked along the piazza towards a place where he
+saw an open door in another large building, which, being connected with
+the piazza, evidently belonged to the hotel. In fact, it was a sort of
+wing. As there were people going in and out at this door, Rollo thought
+that he could go in too.
+
+He accordingly walked along in that direction. Before he reached the
+door he came to a place which, though open to the air, was covered with
+a roof, and was so enclosed by the buildings on three sides as to make
+quite a pleasant little nook. It was ornamented by various shrubs and
+flowers which grew from tubs and large pots arranged against the sides
+of it. There were several tables in this space, with chairs around them,
+and one or two parties of young men were taking their breakfast here.
+
+"This will be a good place for uncle George and me to have our
+breakfast," said Rollo to himself, "and we can see the Jungfrau all the
+time while we are eating it."
+
+Rollo then went on into the open door. He found himself ushered into a
+very large and beautiful drawing room. There were a great many sofas
+arranged around the sides of it, on which parties of ladies and
+gentlemen were sitting talking together; while other gentlemen, their
+hats in their hands, were standing before them or walking about the
+floor. There was no carpet; but the floor was formed of dark wood
+highly polished, and was very beautiful. There was a fireplace in one
+corner of this room; but there was no fire in it. No fire was necessary;
+for it was a warm and pleasant morning.
+
+On the front side of the room was a row of windows looking out towards
+the road. On the back side was a door opening to another large room,
+where Rollo saw a table spread and several people sitting at it eating
+their breakfast.
+
+"Ah," said Rollo, "there is the dining room! I will go in there and see
+what we can have for breakfast."
+
+So he walked through the drawing room and entered the room beyond. He
+found that this inner room was quite a spacious apartment; and there
+were one or two long tables extending the whole length of it.
+
+There were various separate parties sitting at these tables taking
+breakfast. Some were just beginning. Some had just ended. Some were
+waiting for their breakfast to be brought in. Near where Rollo was
+standing two gentlemen were seated at the table, with a map of
+Switzerland spread before them; and, instead of being occupied with
+breakfast, they were planning some excursion for the day.
+
+Rollo looked out a vacant place at the table and took his seat. A waiter
+came to him to know what he would have.
+
+"I want breakfast for two," said Rollo, "my uncle and myself. What have
+you got for us?"
+
+The waiter repeated a long list of very nice things that he could give
+Rollo and his uncle for breakfast. From among these Rollo chose a beef
+steak, some hot rolls and butter, some honey, and some coffee. The
+waiter went out to prepare them.
+
+In about ten minutes Mr. George came down. He took his seat by the side
+of Rollo; and very soon afterwards the waiter brought in what had been
+ordered. Rollo liked the breakfast very much, especially the honey.
+
+It is very customary to have honey for breakfast in Switzerland.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 5: The zenith is the point in the heavens that is directly
+over our heads.]
+
+[Footnote 6: Pronounced _Yoongfrow_.]
+
+[Footnote 7: Pronounced _shamwawh_.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+LAUTERBRUNNEN.
+
+
+"Come, uncle George," said Rollo, "make haste. We are all ready."
+
+Rollo was sitting in a char a banc when he said this, at the door of the
+hotel. He and his uncle were going to make an excursion up the valley of
+the Luetschine to Lauterbrunnen, and thence to ascend the Wengern Alp, in
+order to see the avalanches of the Jungfrau; and Rollo was in haste to
+set out.
+
+"Come, uncle George," said he, "make haste."
+
+Mr. George was coming out of the hotel slowly, talking with the
+landlord.
+
+"The guide will take you to Lauterbrunnen," said the landlord, "in the
+char a banc; and then he will send the char a banc back down the valley
+to the fork, and thence up to Grindelwald to wait for you there. You
+will go up to the Wengern Alp from Lauterbrunnen; and then, after
+staying there as long as you please, you will keep on and come down to
+Grindelwald on the other side, where you will find the carriage ready
+for you.[8] But it seems to me that you had better take another horse."
+
+"No," said Mr. George. "One will do very well."
+
+Mr. George had a carpet bag in his hand. It contained nightdresses, to
+be used in case he and Rollo should conclude to spend the night on the
+mountain. He put the carpet bag into the carriage, and then got in
+himself. The landlord shut the door, and the coachman drove away. Thus
+they set out on their excursion.
+
+This excursion to the Wengern Alp was only one of many similar
+expeditions which Rollo and Mr. George made together while they were in
+Switzerland. As, however, it is manifestly impossible to describe the
+whole of Switzerland in so small a volume as this, I shall give a
+narrative of the ascent of the Wengern Alp as a sort of specimen of
+these excursions. I think it better that I should give a minute and
+particular account of one than a more vague and general, and so less
+satisfactory, account of several of them.
+
+Rollo had taken the precaution to have the curtains of the char a banc
+rolled up, so that he and Mr. George could see out freely on all sides
+of them as they rode along.
+
+The view which was first presented to their observation was that of the
+lawns and gardens in the midst of which the hotels were situated. These
+grounds were connected together by walks--some straight, others
+winding--which passed through bowers and gateways from one enclosure to
+the other. In these walks various parties were strolling; some were
+gathering flowers, others were gazing at the mountains around, and
+others still were moving quietly along, going from one hotel to another
+for the purpose of taking a pleasant morning walk or to make visits to
+their friends. The whole scene was a bright and very animated one; but
+Rollo had not time to observe it long; for the char a banc, after moving
+by a graceful sweep around a copse of shrubbery, passed out through a
+great gateway in the road, and the hotels and all that pertained to them
+were soon hidden from view by the great trees which grew along the
+roadside before them.
+
+The coachman, or rather the guide,--for the man who was driving the char
+a banc was the one who was to act as guide up the mountain when they
+reached Lauterbrunnen,--turned soon into a road which led off towards
+the gap, or opening, in the nearer mountains which Mr. George and Rollo
+had seen from the windows of the hotel. The road was very smooth and
+level, and the two travellers, as they rode along, had a fine view of
+the fields, the hamlets, and the scattered cottages which bordered the
+road on the side to which their faces were turned.
+
+"This char a banc," said Rollo, "is an excellent carriage for seeing the
+prospect on _one_ side of the road."
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "but there might be the most astonishing
+spectacle in Switzerland on the other side without our knowing any thing
+about it unless we turned round expressly to see."
+
+So saying, Mr. George turned in his seat and looked at that side of the
+road which had been behind them. There was a field there, and a young
+girl about seventeen years old--with a very broad-brimmed straw hat upon
+her head, and wearing a very picturesque costume in other respects--was
+seen digging up the ground with a hoe.
+
+The blade of the hoe was long, and it seemed very heavy. The girl was
+digging up the ground by standing upon the part which she had already
+dug and striking the hoe down into the hard ground a few inches back
+from where she had struck before.
+
+"Do the women work in the fields every where in Switzerland, Henry?"
+said Mr. George.
+
+The guide's name was Henry. He could not speak English, but he spoke
+French and German. Mr. George addressed him in French.
+
+"Yes, sir," said Henry; "in every part of Switzerland where I have
+been."
+
+"In America the women never work in the fields," said Mr. George.
+
+"Never?" asked Henry, surprised.
+
+"No," said Mr. George; "at least, I never saw any."
+
+"What do they do, then," asked Henry, "to spend their time?"
+
+Mr. George laughed. He told Rollo, in English, that he did not think he
+had any satisfactory answer at hand in respect to the manner in which
+the American ladies spent their time.
+
+"I pity that poor girl," said Rollo, "hoeing all day on such hard
+ground. I think the men ought to do such work as that."
+
+"The men have harder work to do," said Mr. George; "climbing the
+mountains to hunt chamois, or driving the sheep and cows up to the upper
+pasturages in places where it would be very difficult for women to go."
+
+"We must turn round every now and then," said Rollo, "and see what is
+behind us, or we may lose the sight of something very extraordinary."
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "I heard of a party of English ladies who once
+went out in a char a banc to see a lake. It happened that when they came
+to the lake the road led along the shore in such a manner that the
+party, as they sat in the carriage, had their backs to the water. So
+they rode along, looking at the scenery on the land side and wondering
+why they did not come to the lake. In this manner they continued until
+they had gone entirely around the lake; and then the coachman drove them
+home. When they arrived at the hotel they were astonished to find that
+they had got home again; and they called out to the coachman to ask
+where the lake was that they had driven out to see. He told them that he
+had driven them all round it!"
+
+Rollo laughed heartily at this story, and Henry would probably have
+laughed too if he had understood it; but, as Mr. George related it in
+English, Henry did not comprehend one word of the narration from
+beginning to end.
+
+In the mean time the horse trotted rapidly onward along the valley,
+which seemed to grow narrower and narrower as they proceeded; and the
+impending precipices which here and there overhung the road became more
+and more terrific. The Luetschine, a rapid and turbid stream, swept
+swiftly along--sometimes in full view and sometimes concealed. Now and
+then there was a bridge, or a mill, or some little hamlet of Swiss
+cottages to diversify the scene. Mr. George and Rollo observed every
+thing with great attention and interest. They met frequent parties of
+travellers returning from Grindelwald to Lauterbrunnen--some on foot,
+some on horseback, and others in carriages which were more or less
+spacious and elegant, according to the rank or wealth of the travellers
+who were journeying in them.
+
+At length they arrived at the fork of the valley. Here they gazed with
+astonishment and awe at the stupendous precipice which reared its
+colossal front before them and which seemed effectually to stop their
+way.
+
+On drawing near to it, however, it appeared that the valley divided into
+two branches at this point, as has already been explained. The road
+divided too. The branch which led to the right was the road to
+Lauterbrunnen. The one to the left Rollo supposed led to Grindelwald. To
+make it sure, he pointed to the left-hand road and said to Henry,--
+
+"To Grindelwald?"
+
+"Yes, sir," said Henry, "to Grindelwald."
+
+The scenery now became more wild than ever. The valley was narrow, and
+on each side of it were to be seen lofty precipices and vast slopes of
+mountain land--some smooth and green, and covered, though very steep,
+with flocks and herds, and others feathered with dark evergreen forests,
+or covered with ragged rocks, or pierced with frightful chasms. Here and
+there a zigzag path was seen leading from hamlet to hamlet or from peak
+to peak up the mountain, with peasants ascending or descending by them
+and bearing burdens of every form and variety on their backs. In one
+case Rollo saw a woman bringing a load of hay on her back down the
+mountain side.
+
+The valley, bordered thus as it was with such wild and precipitous
+mountain sides, might have had a gloomy, or at least a very sombre,
+expression, had it not been cheered and animated by the waterfalls that
+came foaming down here and there from the precipices above, and which
+seemed so bright and sparkling that they greatly enlivened the scene.
+These waterfalls were of a great variety of forms. In some cases a thin
+thread of water, like the jet from a fire engine, came slowly over the
+brink of a precipice a thousand feet in the air, and, gliding smoothly
+down for a few hundred feet, was then lost entirely in vapor or spray.
+In other cases, in the depth of some deep ravine far up the mountain,
+might be seen a line of foam meandering for a short distance among the
+rocks and then disappearing. Rollo pointed to one of these, and then
+said to Mr. George,--
+
+"Uncle, look there! There is a short waterfall half way up the mountain;
+but I cannot see where the water comes from or where it goes to."
+
+"No," said Mr. George. "It comes undoubtedly from over the precipice
+above, and it flows entirely down into the valley; but it only comes out
+to view for that short distance."
+
+"Why can't we see it all the way?" asked Rollo.
+
+"I suppose," said Mr. George, "it may flow for the rest of the way in
+the bottom of some deep chasms, or it may possibly be that it comes
+suddenly out of the ground at the place where we see it."
+
+"Yes," said Rollo. "I found a great stream coming suddenly out of the
+ground at Interlachen."
+
+"Where," asked Mr. George.
+
+"Right across the river," said Rollo. "I went over there this morning."
+
+"How did you get over?" said Mr. George.
+
+"I went over on a bridge," said Rollo. "I took a little walk up the
+road, and pretty soon I came to a bridge which led across the river. I
+went over, and then walked along the bank on the other side. There was
+only a narrow space between the river and the precipice. The ground
+sloped down from the foot of the precipice to the water. I found several
+very large springs breaking out in this ground. One of them was _very_
+large. The water that ran from it made a great stream, large enough for
+a mill. It came up right out of the ground from a great hole all full of
+stones. The water came up from among the stones."
+
+"And where did it go to?" asked Mr. George.
+
+"O, it ran directly down into the river. The place was rather steep
+where it ran down, so that it made a cascade all the way."
+
+"I should like to have seen it," said Mr. George.
+
+"Yes," said Rollo; "it was very curious indeed to see a little river
+come up suddenly out of the ground from a great hole full of stones."
+
+Talking in this manner about what they had seen, our travellers went on
+till they came to Lauterbrunnen. They found a small village here, in the
+midst of which was a large and comfortable inn. There were a number of
+guides and several carriages in the yards of this inn, and many parties
+of travellers coming and going. The principal attraction of the valley,
+however, at this part of it, is an immense waterfall, called the Fall of
+the Staubach, which was to be seen a little beyond the village, up the
+valley. This is one of the most remarkable waterfalls in all
+Switzerland. A large stream comes over the brink of a precipice nearly a
+thousand feet high, and descends in one smooth and continuous column for
+some hundreds of feet, when it gradually breaks, and finally comes down
+upon the rocks below a vast mass of foam and spray.
+
+Rollo and Mr. George could see this waterfall and a great many other
+smaller ones which came streaming down over the faces of the precipices,
+along the sides of the valley, as they came up in the char a banc,
+before they reached the inn.
+
+"I don't see how such a large river gets to the top of such a high
+hill," said Rollo.
+
+That this question should have arisen in Rollo's mind is not surprising;
+for the top of the precipice where the Staubach came over seemed, in
+fact, the summit of a sharp ridge to any one looking up to it from the
+valley below; and Rollo did not imagine that there was any land above.
+The apparent wonder was, however, afterwards explained, when our
+travellers began to ascend the mountain on the other side of the valley
+that afternoon to go up to the Wengern Alp.
+
+The guide drove the char a banc to the door of the inn, and Mr. George
+and Rollo got out. They went into the inn and ordered dinner.
+
+"We are going to see the Staubach," said Mr. George to the waiter, "and
+we will be back in half an hour."
+
+"Very well," said the waiter; "your dinner shall be ready."
+
+So Mr. George and Rollo came out of the inn again in order to go and see
+the waterfall.
+
+They were beset at the door by a number of young men and boys, and also
+by several little girls, some of whom wanted to sell them minerals or
+flowers which they had gathered among the rocks around the waterfall;
+and others wished to guide them to the place.
+
+"To the Staubach? To the Staubach?" said they. "Want a guide? Want a
+guide?"
+
+They said this in the German language. Mr. George understood enough of
+German to know what they meant; but he could not reply in that language.
+So he said, in French,--
+
+"No; we do not wish any guide. We can find the way to the Staubach
+ourselves. There it is, right before our eyes."
+
+Mr. George, while he was saying this, was taking out some small change
+from his pockets to give to the children. He gave a small coin apiece to
+them all.
+
+Seeing this, the boys who had wished to guide him to the Staubach became
+more clamorous than ever.
+
+"To the Staubach?" said they. "To the Staubach? Want a guide? Want a
+guide?"
+
+Mr. George paid no further attention to them; but, saying "Come, Rollo,"
+walked on.
+
+The would-be guides followed him a short distance, still offering their
+services; but, finding soon that Mr. George would not have any thing
+more to say to them, they gradually dropped off and went back to the inn
+to try their fortune with the next arrival.
+
+Mr. George and Rollo walked on along a narrow road, which was bordered
+by queer, picturesque-looking huts and cottages on either hand, with
+gardens by the sides of them, in which women and girls were hoeing or
+weeding. They met two or three parties of ladies and gentlemen returning
+from the Staubach; and presently they came to a place where, close to
+the side of the road, was a small shop, before which a party of ladies
+and gentlemen had stopped, apparently to look at something curious.
+
+Mr. George and Rollo went to the place and found that it was a shop for
+the sale of carved toys and images such as are made in many parts of
+Switzerland to be sold to travellers for souvenirs of their tour through
+the country. There were shelves put up on the outside of the shop, each
+side of the door, and these shelves were covered with all sorts of
+curious objects carved in white or yellow fir, or pine. There were
+images of Swiss peasants with all sorts of burdens on their backs, and
+models of Swiss cottages, and needle boxes, and pin cases, and match
+boxes, and nut crackers, and groups of hunters on the rocks, or of goats
+or chamois climbing, and rulers ornamented with cameo-like carvings of
+wreaths and flowers, and with the word "Staubach" cut in ornamental
+letters.
+
+Rollo was greatly interested in this store of curiosities, so much so,
+in fact, that for the moment all thoughts of the Staubach were driven
+from his mind.
+
+"Let us buy some of these things, uncle George," said he.
+
+"And carry them over the Wengern Alp?" said Mr. George.
+
+"Yes," said Rollo. "They won't be very heavy. We can put them in the
+carpet bag."
+
+"Well," said Mr. George, "you may buy one or two specimens if you wish,
+but not many; for the guide has got the carpet bag to carry, and we must
+not make it very heavy."
+
+"Or we can send them in the carriage round to Grindelwald," said Rollo,
+"and not have to carry them at all."
+
+"So we can," said Mr. George.
+
+Rollo accordingly bought two Swiss cottages, very small ones, and a nut
+cracker. The nut cracker was shaped like a man's fist, with a hole in
+the middle of it to put the nut in. Then there was a handle, the end of
+which, when the handle was turned, was forced into the hollow of the
+fist by means of a screw cut in the wood, and this would crack the nut.
+
+While Rollo was paying for his toys he felt a small hand taking hold of
+his own, and heard a voice say, in English,--
+
+"How do you do?"
+
+The English "How do you do?" is a strange sound to be heard in these
+remote Swiss valleys.
+
+Rollo turned round and saw a boy look up to him with a smile, saying
+again at the same time,--
+
+"How do you do?"
+
+In a moment Rollo recognized the boy whom he had seen at Basle in the
+court yard of the diligence office while he had been waiting there for
+the horses to be harnessed. His sister Lottie was standing near; and
+she, as well as her brother, appeared to be much pleased at seeing Rollo
+again. Rollo had a few minutes' conversation with his young friends, and
+then they separated, as Rollo went on with his uncle to see the
+waterfall; while they, having already been with their father and mother
+to see it, went back to the inn.
+
+Mr. George had recommended to Rollo not to buy too many specimens of the
+carving, not only on account of the difficulty of transporting them, but
+also because he thought that they would probably find a great many other
+opportunities to purchase such things before they had finished their
+rambles in Switzerland. He was quite right in this supposition. In fact,
+Rollo passed three more stands for selling such things on the way to the
+Staubach.
+
+Mr. George and Rollo continued their walk along the road, looking up
+constantly at the colossal column of water before them, which seemed to
+grow larger and higher the nearer they drew to it. At length they
+reached the part of the road which was directly opposite to it. Here
+there was a path which turned off from the road and led up through the
+pasture towards the foot of the fall. The entrance to this path was
+beset by children who had little boxes full of crystals and other
+shining minerals which they wished to sell to visitors for souvenirs of
+the place.
+
+Mr. George and Rollo turned into this path and attempted to advance
+towards the foot of the fall; but they soon found themselves stopped by
+the spray. In fact, the whole region all around the foot of the fall,
+for a great distance, was so full of mist and driving spray that going
+into it was like going into a rain storm. Mr. George and Rollo soon
+found that they were getting thoroughly wet and that it would not do to
+go any farther.
+
+"And so," said Rollo, in a disappointed tone, "though we have taken the
+pains to come all this way to see the waterfall, we can't get near
+enough to see it after all."
+
+Mr. George laughed.
+
+"I wish we had brought an umbrella," said Rollo.
+
+"An umbrella would not have done much good," replied Mr. George. "The
+wind whirls about so much that it would drive the spray upon us
+whichever way we should turn the umbrella."
+
+"The path goes on a great deal nearer," said Rollo. "Somebody must go
+there, at any rate, without minding the spray."
+
+"Perhaps," said Mr. George, "when the wind is in some other quarter, it
+may blow the spray away, so that people can go nearer the foot of the
+fall without getting wet. At any rate, it is plain that we cannot go any
+nearer now."
+
+Saying these words, Mr. George led the way back towards the road, and
+Rollo followed him.
+
+After retreating far enough to get again into a dry atmosphere, they
+stopped and looked upward at the fall. It seemed an immense cataract
+coming down out of the sky. After gazing at the stupendous spectacle
+till their wonder and admiration were in some measure satisfied, they
+returned to the inn, where they found an excellent dinner all ready for
+them. While they were thus employed in eating their dinner, Henry was
+engaged in eating his, with at least as good an appetite, in company
+with the other guides, in the servants' hall.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 8: See the map at the commencement of the first chapter.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+THE WENGERN ALP.
+
+
+It was about twelve o'clock when Rollo and Mr. George, having finished
+their dinner, came out into the yard of the inn for the purpose of
+setting out for the ascent of the mountain.
+
+"Well, Rollo," said Mr. George, "now for a a scramble."
+
+Thus far the road which the young gentlemen had travelled since leaving
+Interlachen had been quite level and smooth, its course having been
+along the bottom of the valley, which was itself quite level, though
+shut in on both sides by precipitous mountains. Now they were to leave
+the valley and ascend one of these mountain sides by means of certain
+zigzag paths which had been made with great labor upon them, to enable
+the peasants to ascend and descend in going to and from their hamlets
+and pasturages.
+
+The paths, though very steep and very torturous, are smooth enough for
+horses to go up, though the peasants themselves very seldom use horses.
+A horse would eat as much grass, perhaps, as two cows. They prefer,
+therefore, to have the cows, and do without the horse. And so every
+thing which they wish to transport up and down the mountain they carry
+on their backs.
+
+There were various other guides in the yard of the inn besides Henry:
+some were preparing apparently for the ascent of the mountain with other
+parties; others were bringing up carriages for people who were going to
+return to Interlachen. Henry, when he saw Mr. George and Rollo coming
+out, asked them if they were ready.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George. "Bring the horse. You shall ride first, Rollo."
+
+Mr. George was to have but one horse for himself and Rollo, and they
+were to ride it by turns. He thought that both he himself and Rollo
+would be able to walk half way up the mountain, and, by having one horse
+between them, each could ride half the way.
+
+Besides, it is less fatiguing, when you have a long and steep ascent to
+make, to walk some portion of the way rather than to be on horseback all
+the time.
+
+There was another consideration which influenced Mr. George. Every
+additional horse which should be required for the excursion would cost
+about two dollars a day, including the guide to take care of him; and,
+as Mr. George expected to spend at least two days on the excursion, it
+would cost four dollars more to take two horses than to take only one.
+
+"And I think," said Mr. George to Rollo, after having made this
+calculation, "we had better save that money, and have it to buy
+beautiful colored engravings of Swiss scenery with when we get to
+Geneva."
+
+"I think so too," said Rollo.
+
+So it was concluded to take but one horse with them, on the
+understanding that each of the travellers was to walk half the way.
+
+Rollo accordingly, when the horse was brought to the door, climbed up
+upon his back with the guide's assistance, and, after adjusting his feet
+to the stirrup, prepared to set out on the ascent. His heart was
+bounding with excitement and delight.
+
+When all was ready the party moved on, Rollo on the horse and Mr. George
+and Henry walking along by his side. They proceeded a short distance
+along the road, and then turned into a path which led towards the side
+of the valley opposite to the Staubach. They soon reached the foot of
+the slope, and then they began to ascend. The path grew more and more
+steep as they proceeded, until at length it became very precipitous; and
+in some places the horse was obliged to scramble up, as it were, as if
+he were going up stairs. Rollo clung to his seat manfully in all these
+places; and he would have been sometimes afraid were it not that, in
+every case where there could be even any apparent danger, Henry would
+come to his side and keep by him, ready to render assistance at a
+moment's notice whenever any should be needed. In this way the party
+moved slowly on up the face of the mountain, making many short turns and
+windings among the rocks and going back and forth in zigzags on the
+green declivities. Sometimes for a few minutes they would be lost in a
+grove of firs, or pines; then they would come out upon some rounded
+promontory of grass land or projecting peak of rocks; and a few minutes
+afterwards they would move along smoothly for a time upon a level, with
+a steep acclivity, rough with rocks and precipices on one side, and an
+abrupt descent on the other down which a stone would have rolled a
+thousand feet into the valley below.
+
+Of course the view of the valley became more commanding and more
+striking the higher they ascended. Rollo wished at every turn to stop
+and look at it. He did stop sometimes, the guide saying that it was
+necessary to do so in order to let the horse get his breath a little;
+for the toil for such an animal of getting up so steep an ascent was
+very severe. Rollo would have stopped oftener; but he did not like to be
+left behind by his uncle George, who, being active and agile, mounted
+very rapidly. Mr. George would often shorten his road very much by
+climbing directly up the rocks from one turn of the road to the other;
+while the horse, with Rollo on his back, was compelled to go round by
+the zigzag.
+
+At last, after they had been ascending for about half an hour, Mr.
+George stopped, at a place where there was a smooth stone for a seat by
+the side of the path, to wait for Rollo to come up; and, when Rollo
+came, Mr. George took him off the horse to let him rest a little. The
+view of the valley from this point was very grand and imposing. Rollo
+could look down into it as you could look into the bed of a brook in the
+country, standing upon the top of the bank on one side. The village, the
+inn, the little cottages along the roadside, the river, the bridges, and
+a thousand other objects, all of liliputian size, were to be seen below;
+while on the farther side the streaming Staubach was in full view,
+pouring over the brink of the precipice and falling in a dense mass of
+spray on the rocks at the foot of them.
+
+Rollo could understand now, too, where the fall of the Staubach came
+from; for above the brink of the precipice, where the water came over,
+there was now to be seen a vast expanse of mountain country, rising
+steep, but not precipitously, far above the summit of the precipice, and
+of course receding as it ascended, so as not to be seen from the valley
+below. From the elevation, however, to which Rollo had now attained, the
+whole of this vast region was in view. It was covered with forests,
+pasturages, chalets, and scattered hamlets; and in the valleys, long,
+silvery lines of water were to be seen glittering in the sun and
+twisting and twining down in foaming cascades to the brink of the
+precipice, where, plunging over, they formed the cataracts which had
+been seen in the valley below. The Staubach was the largest of these
+falls; and the stream which produced it could now be traced for many
+miles as it came dancing along in its shining path down among the
+ravines of the mountains.
+
+"I see now what makes the fall of the Staubach," said Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George.
+
+"I should like to be on the brink of the precipice where it falls over,"
+said Rollo, "and look down."
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "so should I. I don't think that we could get
+near enough actually to look down, but we could get near enough to see
+the water where it begins to take the plunge."
+
+After resting a suitable time at this place and greatly admiring and
+enjoying the view, our party set out again. Rollo proposed that his
+uncle should ride now a little way and let him walk; but Mr. George
+preferred that Rollo should mount again. There was still nearly another
+hour's hard climbing to do and a long and pretty difficult walk of
+several miles beyond it, and Mr. George was very desirous of saving
+Rollo's strength. It might perhaps be supposed, from the blunt manner in
+which Mr. George often threw the responsibility upon Rollo when he was
+placed in difficult emergencies and left him to act for himself, that he
+did not think or care much for his nephew's comfort or happiness. But
+this was by no means the case. Mr. George was very fond of Rollo indeed.
+If he had not been fond of him he would not have wished to have him for
+his companion on his tour. He was very careful, too, never to expose
+Rollo to any real hardship or suffering; and his apparently blunt
+manner, in throwing responsibilities upon the boy, only amused him by
+making it appear that his uncle George considered him almost a man.
+
+Mr. George, knowing that the first part of the way from Lauterbrunnen to
+the Wengern Alp was by far the most steep and difficult, had accordingly
+arranged it in his own mind that Rollo should ride until this steep part
+had been surmounted.
+
+"You may mount again now, Rollo," said he. "I will walk a little longer
+and take my turn in riding a little farther on."
+
+So Rollo mounted; and there was now another hour of steep climbing. The
+zigzags were sometimes sharp and short and at others long and winding;
+but the way was always picturesque and the views became more and more
+grand and imposing the higher the party ascended. At one time, when
+Rollo had stopped a moment to let his horse breathe, he saw at a turn of
+the path a few zigzags below him a little girl coming up, with a basket
+on her back.
+
+Rollo pointed to her and asked the guide, in French, who that girl was.
+
+Henry said he did not know.
+
+Henry, foolishly enough, supposed that Rollo meant to ask what the
+girl's name was; and so he said that he did not know. But this was not
+what Rollo meant at all. He had no particular desire in asking the
+question to learn the child's name. What he wished to know was, what,
+according to the customs of the country, would be the probable province
+and function of such a sort of girl as that, coming alone up the
+mountain in that way with a burden on her back. Henry, if he had
+understood the real intent and meaning of the question, could easily
+have answered it. The girl lived in a little hamlet of shepherds' huts
+farther up the mountain, and had been down into the village to buy
+something for her father and mother; and she was now coming home with
+her purchases in the basket on her back. All this Henry knew very well;
+but, when Rollo asked who the girl was, Henry thought he meant to ask
+who she herself was individually; and so, as he did not know her
+personally, he could not tell.
+
+Travellers often get disappointed in this way in asking questions of the
+natives of the country in which they are travelling. The people do not
+understand the nature and bearing of the question, and they themselves
+are not familiar enough with the language to explain what they do mean.
+
+The guide stood for a minute or two looking intently at the girl as she
+slowly ascended the path, especially when she passed the angles of the
+zigzag, for there she turned sometimes in such a manner as to show her
+face more plainly.
+
+"No," said he, at length; "I do not know her. I never saw her before.
+But I'll ask her who she is when she comes up."
+
+"Uncle George!" said Rollo, calling out very loudly to his uncle, who
+was at some distance above.
+
+"Ay, ay," said Mr. George, responding.
+
+Rollo attempted to look up to see where his uncle was standing; but in
+doing this he had to throw his head back so far as to bring a fear
+suddenly over him of falling from his horse. So he desisted, and
+continued his conversation without attempting to look.
+
+"Here is a girl coming up the mountain with a basket on her back. Come
+down and see her."
+
+"Come up here," said Mr. George, "and we will wait till she comes."
+
+So Rollo chirruped to his horse and started along again. In a few
+minutes he reached the place where his uncle George was standing, and
+there they all waited till the little girl came up.
+
+"Good morning," said the girl, as soon as she came near enough to be
+heard. She spoke the words in the German language and with a very
+pleasant smile upon her face.
+
+The peasants in Switzerland, when they meet strangers in ascending or
+descending the mountains, always accost them pleasantly and wish them
+good morning or good evening. In most other countries, strangers meeting
+each other on the road pass in silence. Perhaps it is the loneliness and
+solitude of the country and the sense of danger and awe that the
+stupendous mountains inspire that incline people to be more pleased when
+they meet each other in Switzerland, even if they are strangers, than in
+the more cheerful and smiling regions of France and England.
+
+The guide said something to the girl, but Rollo could not understand
+what it was, for he spoke, and the answer was returned, in German.
+
+"She says her name is Ninette," said Henry.
+
+Rollo's attention was immediately attracted to the form of the basket
+which Ninette wore and to the manner in which it was fastened to her
+back. The basket was comparatively small at the bottom, being about as
+wide as the waist of the girl; but it grew larger towards the top, where
+it opened as wide as the girl's shoulders--being shaped in this respect
+in conformity with the shape of the back on which it was to be borne.
+
+[Illustration: THE MOUNTAIN GIRL.]
+
+The side of the basket, too, which lay against the back was flat, so as
+to fit to it exactly. The outer side was rounded. It was open at the
+top.
+
+The basket was secured to its place upon the child's back and shoulders
+by means of two flat strips of wood, which were fastened at the upper
+ends of them to the back of the basket near the top, and which came
+round over the shoulders in front, and then, passing under the arms,
+were fastened at the lower ends to the basket near the bottom. The
+basket was thus supported in its place and carried by means of the
+pressure of these straps upon the shoulders.
+
+"Uncle George," said Rollo, "I should like to have such a basket as that
+and such a pair of straps to carry it by."
+
+"What would you do with it," asked Mr. George, "if you had it?"
+
+"Why, it would be very convenient," said Rollo, "in America, when I went
+a-raspberrying. You see, if I had such a basket as that, I could bring
+my berries home on my back, and so have my hands free."
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George, "that would be convenient."
+
+"Besides," said Rollo, "it would be a curiosity."
+
+"That's true," replied Mr. George; "but it would be very difficult to
+carry so bulky a thing home."
+
+After some further conversation it was concluded not to buy the basket,
+but to ask the girl if she would be willing to sell the straps, or bows,
+that it was fastened with. These straps were really quite curious. They
+were made of some very hard and smooth-grained wood, and were nicely
+carved and bent so as to fit to the girl's shoulders quite precisely.
+
+Accordingly Mr. George, speaking in French, requested Henry to ask the
+girl whether she would be willing to sell the straps. Henry immediately
+addressed the girl in the German language, and after talking with her a
+few minutes he turned again to Mr. George and Rollo and said that the
+girl would rather not sell them herself, as they belonged to her father,
+who lived about half a mile farther up the mountain. But she was sure
+her father would sell them if they would stop at his cottage as they
+went by. He would either sell them that pair, she said, or a new pair;
+for he made such things himself, and he had two or three new pairs in
+his cottage.
+
+"Very well," said Mr. George; "let us go on.
+
+"Which would you rather have," said Mr. George to Rollo, as they resumed
+their march, "this pair, or some new ones?"
+
+"I would rather have this pair," said Rollo.
+
+"They are somewhat soiled and worn," said Mr. George.
+
+"Yes," said Rollo; "but they are good and strong; and as soon as I get
+home I shall rub them all off clean with sand paper and then have them
+varnished, so as to make them look very bright and nice; and then I
+shall keep them for a curiosity. I would rather have this pair, for then
+I can tell people that I bought them actually off the shoulders of a
+little girl who was carrying a burden with them up the Alps."
+
+In due time the party reached the little hamlet where Ninette lived. The
+hamlet consisted of a scattered group of cabins and cow houses on a
+shelving green more than a thousand feet above the valley. The girl led
+the party to the door of her father's hut; and there, through the medium
+of Henry as interpreter, they purchased the two bows for a very small
+sum of money. They also bought a drink of excellent milk for the whole
+party of Ninette's mother and then resumed their journey.
+
+As they went on they obtained from time to time very grand and extended
+views of the surrounding mountains. Whether they turned their eyes above
+or below them, the prospect was equally wonderful. In the latter case
+they looked down on distant villages; some clinging to the hillsides,
+others nestling in the valleys, and others still perched, like the one
+where Ninette lived, on shelving slopes of green pasture land, which
+terminated at a short distance from the dwellings on the brink of the
+most frightful precipices. Above were towering forests and verdant
+slopes of land, dotted with chalets or broken here and there by the gray
+rocks which appeared among them. Higher still were lofty crags, with
+little sunny nooks among them--the dizzy pasturages of the chamois; and
+above these immense fields of ice and snow, which pierced the sky with
+the glittering peaks and summits in which they terminated. Mr. George
+and Rollo paused frequently, as they continued their journey, to gaze
+around them upon these stupendous scenes.
+
+At length, when the steepest part of the ascent had been accomplished,
+Mr. George said that he was tired of climbing, and proposed that Rollo
+should dismount and take his turn in walking.
+
+"If you were a lady," said Mr. George, "I would let you ride all the
+way. But you are strong and capable, and as well able to walk as I
+am--better, I suppose, in fact; so you may as well take your turn."
+
+"Yes," said Rollo; "I should like it. I am tired of riding. I would
+rather walk than not."
+
+So Henry assisted Rollo to dismount, and then adjusted the stirrups to
+Mr. George's use, and Mr. George mounted into the saddle.
+
+"How glad I am to come to the end of my walking," said Mr. George, "and
+to get upon a horse!"
+
+"How glad I am to come to the end of my riding," said Rollo, "and to get
+upon my feet!"
+
+Thus both of the travellers seemed pleased with the change. The road now
+became far more easy to be travelled than before. The steepest part of
+the ascent had been surmounted, and for the remainder of the distance
+the path followed a meandering way over undulating land, which, though
+not steep, was continually ascending. Here and there herds of cattle
+were seen grazing; and there were scattered huts, and sometimes little
+hamlets, where the peasants lived in the summer, to tend their cows and
+make butter and cheese from their milk. In the fall of the year they
+drive the cattle down again to the lower valleys; for these high
+pasturages, though green and sunny in the summer and affording an
+abundance of sweet and nutritious grass for the sheep and cows that feed
+upon them, are buried deep in snows, and are abandoned to the mercy of
+the most furious tempests and storms during all the winter portion of
+the year. Our travellers passed many scattered forests, some of which
+were seen clinging to the mountain sides, at a vast elevation above
+them. In others men were at work felling trees or cutting up the wood.
+Rollo stopped at one of these places and procured a small billet of the
+Alpine wood, as large as he could conveniently carry in his pocket,
+intending to have something made from it when he should get home to
+America. The woodman, at Henry's request, cut out this billet of wood
+for Rollo, making it of the size which Rollo indicated to him by a
+gesture with his finger.
+
+At one time the party met a company of peasant girls coming down from
+the mountain. They came into the path by which our travellers were
+ascending from a side path which seemed to lead up a secluded glen.
+These girls came dancing gayly along with bouquets of flowers in their
+hands and garlands in their hair. They looked bright and blooming, and
+seemed very contented and happy.
+
+They bowed very politely to Mr. George and to Rollo as they passed.
+
+"_Guten abend_," said they.
+
+These are the German words for "Good evening."[9]
+
+"_Guten abend_," said both Mr. George and Rollo in reply.
+
+The girls thus passed by and went on their way down the mountain.
+
+"Where have they been?" asked Mr. George.
+
+"They have been at work gathering up the small stones from the
+pasturages, I suppose," said Henry. "Companies of girls go out for that
+a great deal."
+
+After getting upon the horse, Mr. George took care to keep _behind_
+Rollo and the guide. He knew very well that if he were to go on in
+advance Rollo would exert himself more than he otherwise would do, under
+the influence of a sort of feeling that he ought to try to keep up.
+While Rollo was on the horse himself, having the guide with him too, Mr.
+George knew that there was no danger from this source, as any one who is
+on horseback or in a carriage never has the feeling of being left behind
+when a companion who is on foot by chance gets before him. Consequently,
+while they were coming up the steep part of the mountain, Mr. George
+went on as fast as he pleased, leaving Rollo and Henry to come on at
+their leisure. But now his kind consideration for Rollo induced him to
+keep carefully behind.
+
+"Now, Rollo," said he, "you and Henry may go on just as fast or just as
+slow as you please, without paying any regard to me. I shall follow
+along at my leisure."
+
+Thus Rollo, seeing that Mr. George was behind, went on very leisurely,
+and enjoyed his walk and his talk with Henry very much.
+
+"Did you ever study English, Henry?" said Rollo.
+
+"No," said Henry; "but I wish I could speak English, very much."
+
+"Why?" asked Rollo.
+
+"Because there are so many English people coming here that I have to
+guide up the mountains."
+
+"Well," said Rollo, "you can begin now. I will teach you."
+
+So he began to teach the guide to say "How do you do?" in English.
+
+This conversation between Rollo and Henry was in French. Rollo had
+studied French a great deal by the help of books when he was at home,
+and he had taken so much pains to improve by practice since he had been
+in France and Switzerland that he could now get along in a short and
+simple conversation very well.
+
+While our party had been coming up the mountain, the weather, though
+perfectly clear and serene in the morning, had become somewhat overcast.
+Misty clouds were to be seen here and there floating along the sides or
+resting on the summits of the mountains. At length, while Rollo was in
+the midst of the English lesson which he was giving to the guide, his
+attention was arrested, just as they were emerging from the border of a
+little thicket of stunted evergreens, by what seemed to be a prolonged
+clap of thunder. It came apparently out of a mass of clouds and vapor
+which Rollo saw moving majestically in the southern sky.
+
+"Thunder!" exclaimed Rollo, looking alarmed. "There's thunder!"
+
+"No," said Henry; "an avalanche."
+
+The sound rolled and reverberated in the sky for a considerable time
+like a prolonged peal of thunder. Rollo thought that Henry must be
+mistaken in supposing it an avalanche.
+
+At this moment Rollo, looking round, saw Mr. George coming up, on his
+horse, at a turn of the path a little way behind them.
+
+"Henry," said Mr. George, "there is a thunder shower coming up; we must
+hasten on."
+
+"No," said Henry; "that was an avalanche."
+
+"An avalanche?" exclaimed Mr. George. "Why, the sound came out of the
+middle of the sky."
+
+"It was an avalanche," said the guide, "from the Jungfrau. See!" he
+added, pointing up into the sky.
+
+Mr. George and Rollo both looked in the direction where Henry pointed,
+and there they saw a vast rocky precipice peering out through a break in
+the clouds high up in the sky. An immense snow bank was reposing upon
+its summit. The glittering whiteness of this snow contrasted strongly
+with the sombre gray of the clouds through which, as through an opening
+in a curtain, it was seen.
+
+Presently another break in the clouds, and then another, occurred; at
+each of which towering rocks or great perpendicular walls of glittering
+ice and snow came into view.
+
+"The Jungfrau," said the guide.
+
+Mr. George and Rollo gazed at this spectacle for some minutes in
+silence, when at length Rollo said,--
+
+"Why, uncle George! the sky is all full of rocks and ice!"
+
+"It is indeed!" said Mr. George.
+
+It was rather fortunate than otherwise that the landscape was obscured
+with clouds when Mr. George and Rollo first came into the vicinity of
+the Jungfrau, as the astonishing spectacle of rocks and precipices and
+immense accumulations of snow and ice, breaking out as it were through
+the clouds all over the sky, was in some respects more impressive than
+the full and unobstructed view of the whole mountain would have been.
+
+"I wish the clouds would clear away," said Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George. "I should like to see the whole side of the
+mountain very much."
+
+Here another long and heavy peal, like thunder, began to be heard. Mr.
+George stopped his horse to listen. Rollo and Henry stopped too. The
+sound seemed to commence high up among the clouds. The echoes and
+reverberations were reflected from the rocks and precipices all around
+it; but the peal seemed slowly and gradually to descend towards the
+horizon; and finally, after the lapse of two or three minutes, it
+entirely ceased.
+
+The travellers paused a moment after the sound ceased and continued to
+listen. When they found that all was still they began to move on again.
+
+"I wish I could have seen that avalanche," said Rollo.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George. "I hope the clouds will clear away by the time
+we get to the inn."
+
+It was just about sunset when the party reached the inn. Rollo was
+beginning to get a little tired, though the excitement of the excursion
+and the effect produced on his mind by the strange aspect of every thing
+around him inspired him with so much animation and strength that he held
+on in his walk very well indeed. It is true that a great portion of the
+mountain scenery around him was concealed from view by the clouds; but
+there was something in the appearance of the rocks, in the character of
+the vegetation, and especially in the aspect and expression of the
+patches of snow which were to be seen here and there in nooks and
+corners near the path,--the remains of the vast accumulations of the
+preceding winter which the sun had not yet dispelled,--that impressed
+Rollo continually with a sentiment of wonder and awe, and led him to
+feel that he had attained to a vast elevation, and that he was walking,
+as he really was, among the clouds.
+
+The inn, when the party first came in sight of it, appeared more like a
+log cabin in America than like a well-known and much-frequented European
+hotel. It stood on a very small plot of ground, which formed a sort of
+projection on a steep mountain side, facing the Jungfrau. In front of
+the hotel the land descended very rapidly for a considerable distance.
+The descent terminated at last on the brink of an enormous ravine which
+separated the base of the Wengern Alp from that of the Jungfrau. Behind
+the house the land rose in a broad, green slope, dotted with Alpine
+flowers and terminating in a smooth, rounded summit far above. The house
+itself seemed small, and was rudely constructed. There was a sort of
+piazza in front of it, with a bench and a table before it.
+
+"That is where the people sit, I suppose," said Mr. George, "in pleasant
+weather to see the Jungfrau."
+
+"Yes," said Rollo.
+
+"For the Jungfrau must be over there," said Mr. George, pointing among
+the clouds in the southern sky.
+
+All doubt about the position of the mountain was removed at the instant
+that Mr. George had spoken these words, by another avalanche, which just
+at that moment commenced its fall. They all stopped to listen. The sound
+was greatly prolonged, sometimes roaring continuously for a time, like a
+cataract, and then rumbling and crashing like a peal of thunder.
+
+"What a pity that the clouds are in the way," said Rollo, "so that we
+can't see! Do you think it will clear up before we go away?"
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George. "I am very sure it will; for I am determined not
+to go away till it does clear up."
+
+There were one or two buildings attached to the inn which served
+apparently as barns and sheds. The door of entrance was round in a
+corner formed by the connection of one of these buildings with the
+house. Henry led the horse up to this door, and Mr. George dismounted.
+The guide led the horse away, and Rollo and Mr. George went into the
+house. A young and very blooming Swiss girl received them in the hall
+and opened a door for them which led to the public sitting room.
+
+The sitting room was a large apartment, which extended along the whole
+front of the house. The windows, of course, looked out towards the
+Jungfrau. There was a long table in the middle of the room, and one or
+two smaller ones in the back corners. At these tables two or three
+parties were seated, eating their dinners. In one of the front corners
+was a fireplace, with a small fire, made of pine wood, burning on the
+hearth. A young lady was sitting near this fire, reading. Another was at
+a small table near it, writing in her journal. Around the walls of the
+room were a great many engravings and colored lithographs of Swiss
+scenery; among them were several views of the Jungfrau. On the whole,
+the room, though perfectly plain and even rude in all its furniture and
+appointments, had a very comfortable and attractive appearance.
+
+"What a snug and pleasant-looking place!" said Rollo, whispering to Mr.
+George as they went in.
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George. "It is just exactly such a place as I wished to
+find."
+
+Mr. George and Rollo were both of them tired and hungry. They first
+called for rooms. The maid took them up stairs and gave them two small
+rooms next each other. The rooms were, in fact, _very_ small. The
+furniture in them, too was of the plainest description; but every thing
+was neat and comfortable, and the aspect of the interior of them was, on
+the whole, quite attractive.
+
+In about fifteen minutes Rollo knocked at Mr. George's door and asked if
+he was ready to go down.
+
+"Not quite," said Mr. George; "but I wish that you would go down and
+order dinner."
+
+So Rollo went down again into the public room and asked the maid if she
+could get them some dinner.
+
+"Yes," said the maid. "What would you like to have?"
+
+Rollo was considerate enough to know that there could be very little to
+eat in the house except what had been brought up in a very toilsome and
+difficult manner, from the valleys below, by the zigzag paths which he
+and his uncle had been climbing. So he said in reply,--
+
+"Whatever you please. It is not important to us."
+
+The maid then told him what they had in the house; and Rollo, selecting
+from these things, ordered what he thought would make an excellent
+dinner. The dinner, in fact, when it came to the table, proved to be a
+very excellent one indeed. It consisted of broiled chicken, some most
+excellent fried potatoes, eggs, fresh and very nice bread, and some
+honey. For drink, they had at first water; and at the end of the meal
+some French coffee, which, being diluted with boiled milk that was very
+rich and sweet, was truly delicious.
+
+"I have not had so good a dinner," said Mr. George, "since I have been
+in Europe."
+
+"No," said Rollo; "nor I."
+
+"It is owing in part, I suppose, to the appetite we have got in climbing
+up the mountain," said Mr. George.
+
+Just as the young gentlemen had finished their dinner and were about to
+rise from the table, their attention was attracted by an exclamation of
+delight which came from one of the young ladies who were sitting at the
+fireplace when Mr. George and Rollo came in.
+
+"O Emma," said she, "come here!"
+
+Mr. George and Rollo looked up, and they saw that the young lady whose
+voice they had heard was standing at the window. Emma rose from her seat
+and went to the window in answer to the call. Mr. George and Rollo
+looked out, too, at another window. They saw a spectacle which filled
+them with astonishment.
+
+"It is clearing away," said Rollo. "Let us go out in front of the house
+and look."
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "we will."
+
+So they both left their seats, and, putting on their caps, they went
+out. As soon as they reached the platform where the bench and the table
+were standing they gazed on the scene which was presented to their view
+with wonder and delight.
+
+It was, indeed, clearing away. The clouds were "lifting" from the
+mountains; and the sun, which had been for some hours obscured, was
+breaking forth in the west and illuminating the whole landscape with his
+setting beams. Opposite to where Mr. George and Rollo stood, across the
+valley, they could see the whole mighty mass of the Jungfrau coming into
+view beneath the edge of the cloudy curtain which was slowly rising.
+
+The lower portion of the mountain was an immense precipice, the foot of
+which was hidden from view in the great chasm, or ravine, which
+separated the Jungfrau from the Wengern Alp. Above this were rocks and
+great sloping fields of snow formed from avalanches which had fallen
+down from above. Still higher, there were brought to view vast fields of
+ice and snow, with masses of rock breaking out here and there among
+them, some in the form of precipices and crags, and others shooting up
+in jagged pinnacles and peaks, rising to dizzy heights, to the summits
+of which nothing but the condor or the eagle could ever attain. Still
+higher were precipices of blue and pellucid ice, and boundless fields of
+glittering snow, and immense drifts, piled one above the other in vast
+volumes, and overhanging the cliffs as if just ready to fall.
+
+In a short time the clouds rose so as to clear the summit of the
+mountain; and then the whole mighty mass was seen revealed fully to
+view, glittering in the sunbeams and filling half the sky.
+
+The other guests of the inn came out upon the platform while Rollo and
+Mr. George were there, having wrapped themselves previously in their
+coats and shawls, as the evening air was cool. Some other parties of
+travellers came, too, winding their way slowly up the same pathway where
+Mr. George and Rollo had come. Mr. George and Rollo paid very little
+attention to these new comers, their minds being wholly occupied by the
+mountain.
+
+In a very short time after the face of the Jungfrau came fully into
+view, the attention of all the company that were looking at the scene
+was arrested by the commencement of another peal of the same thundering
+sound that Mr. George and Rollo had heard with so much wonder in coming
+up the mountain. A great many exclamations immediately broke out from
+the party.
+
+"There! hark! look!" said they. "An avalanche! An avalanche!"
+
+The sound was loud and almost precisely like thunder. Every one looked
+in the direction from which it proceeded. There they soon saw, half way
+up the mountain, a stream of snow, like a cataract, creeping slowly over
+the brink of a precipice, and falling in a continued torrent upon the
+rocks below. From this place they could see it slowly creeping down the
+long slope towards another precipice, and where, when it reached the
+brink, it fell over in another cataract, producing another long peal of
+thunder, which, being repeated by the echoes of the mountains and rocks
+around, filled the whole heavens with its rolling reverberations. In
+this manner the mass of ice and snow went down slope after slope and
+over precipice after precipice, till at length it made its final plunge
+into the great chasm at the foot of the mountain and disappeared from
+view.
+
+In the course of an hour several other avalanches were heard and seen;
+and when at length it grew too dark to see them any longer, the
+thundering roar of them was heard from time to time all the night long.
+
+Rollo, however, was so tired that, though he went to bed quite early, he
+did not hear the avalanches or any thing else until Mr. George called
+him the next morning.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 9: They are pronounced as if spelled Gooten arbend.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+GOING DOWN THE MOUNTAIN.
+
+
+Mr. George and Rollo met with various adventures and incidents in going
+down the next day to Grindelwald which are quite characteristic of
+mountain travelling in Switzerland.
+
+They did not set out very early in the morning, as Mr. George wished to
+stay as long as possible to gaze on the face of the Jungfrau and watch
+the avalanches.
+
+"Rollo," said he, as they were standing together in front of the hotel
+after breakfast, "how would you like to go up with me to the top of that
+hill?"
+
+So saying, Mr. George pointed to the great rounded summit which was seen
+rising behind the hotel.
+
+"Yes," said Rollo; "I should like to go very much indeed."
+
+"Very well," said Mr. George; "we will go. But first let me get my
+pressing book to put some flowers in, in case we find any."
+
+Mr. George's pressing book was a contrivance which he had invented for
+the more convenient desiccation of such flowers as he might gather in
+his travels and wish to carry home with him and preserve, either for
+botanical specimens or as souvenirs for his friends. It was made by
+taking out all the leaves of a small book and replacing them with an
+equal number of loose leaves, made for the purpose, of blotting paper,
+and trimmed to the right size. Such small flowers as he might gather in
+the various places that he visited could be much more conveniently
+pressed and preserved between these loose leaves of blotting paper than
+between the leaves of an ordinary book.[10]
+
+So Mr. George, taking his pressing book in his hand, led the way; and
+Rollo following him, they attempted to ascend the hill behind the inn.
+They found the ascent, however, extremely steep and difficult. There
+were no rocks and no roughnesses of any kind in the way. It was merely a
+grassy slope like the steep face of a terrace; but it was so steep that,
+after Mr. George and Rollo had scrambled up two or three hundred feet,
+it made Rollo almost dizzy to look down; and he began to cling to the
+grass and to feel afraid.
+
+"Rollo," said Mr. George, "I am almost afraid to climb up here any
+higher. Do you feel afraid?"
+
+"No, sir," said Rollo, endeavoring at the same time to reassure himself.
+"No, sir; I am not much afraid."
+
+"Let us stop a few minutes to rest and look at the mountain," said Mr.
+George.
+
+Mr. George knew very well that there was no real danger; for the slope,
+though very steep, was very grassy from the top to the bottom; and even
+if Rollo had fallen and rolled down it could not have done him much
+harm.
+
+After a short pause, to allow Rollo to get a little familiar with the
+scene, Mr. George began to move on. Rollo followed. Both Rollo and Mr.
+George would occasionally look up to see how far they were from the top.
+It was very difficult, however, to look up, as in doing so it was
+necessary to lean the head so far back that they came very near losing
+their balance.
+
+After going on for about half an hour, Mr. George said that he did not
+see that they were any nearer the top of the hill than they were at the
+beginning.
+
+"Nor I either," said Rollo; "and I think we had better go back again."
+
+"Well," said Mr. George, "we will; but let us first stop here a few
+minutes to look at the Jungfrau."
+
+The view of the Jungfrau was of course more commanding here than it was
+down at the inn. So Mr. George and Rollo remained some time at their
+resting-place gazing at the mountain and watching for avalanches. At
+length they returned to the inn; and an hour or two afterwards they set
+out on their journey to Grindelwald.
+
+The reader will recollect that Grindelwald was the valley on the other
+side of the Wengern Alp from Lauterbrunnen, and that our travellers,
+having come up one way, were going down the other.[11]
+
+The distance from the inn at the Wengern Alp to Grindelwald is seven or
+eight miles. For a time the path ascends, for the inn is not at the
+summit of the pass. Until it attains the summit it leads through a
+region of hills and ravines, with swamps, morasses, precipices of rocks,
+and great patches of snow scattered here and there along the way. At one
+place Rollo met with an adventure which for a moment put him in
+considerable danger. It was at a place where the path led along on the
+side of the mountain, with a smooth grassy slope above and a steep
+descent ending in another smooth grassy slope below. At a little
+distance forward there was a great patch of snow, the edge of which came
+over the path and covered it.
+
+A heavy mist had come up just before Rollo reached this place, and he
+had accordingly spread his umbrella over his head. He was riding along,
+holding the bridle in one hand and his umbrella in the other, so that
+both his hands were confined. Mr. George was walking at some distance
+before. The guide, too, was a little in advance, for the path was too
+narrow for him to walk by the side of the horse; and, as the way here
+was smooth and pretty level, he did not consider it necessary that he
+should be in very close attendance on Rollo.
+
+Things being in this condition, the horse--when he came in sight of the
+snow, which lay covering the path at a little distance before
+him--concluded that it would be safer both for him and for his rider
+that he should not attempt to go through it, having learned by
+experience that his feet would sink sometimes to great depths in such
+cases. So he determined to turn round and go back. He accordingly
+stopped; and turning his head towards the grassy bank above the path and
+his heels towards the brink on the other side, as horses always do when
+they undertake such a manoeuvre in a narrow path, he attempted to "go
+about." Rollo was of course utterly unable to do any thing to control
+him except to pull one of the reins to bring him back into the path, and
+strike his heels into the horse's side as if he were spurring him. This,
+however, only made the matter worse. The horse backed off the brink; and
+both he and Rollo, falling head over heels, rolled down the steep slope
+together.
+
+[Illustration: THE FALL.]
+
+And not together exactly, either; for Rollo who was usually pretty
+alert and ready in emergencies of difficulty or danger, when he found
+himself rolling down the slope, though he could not stop, still
+contrived to wriggle and twist himself off to one side, so as to get
+clear of the horse and roll off himself in a different direction. They
+both, however, the animal and the boy, soon came to a stop. Rollo was up
+in an instant. The horse, too, contrived, after some scrambling, to gain
+his feet. All this time the guide remained in the path on the brink of
+the descent transfixed with astonishment and consternation.
+
+"Henry," said Rollo, looking up to the guide, "what is the French for
+_head over heels_?"
+
+A very decided but somewhat equivocal smile spread itself over Henry's
+features on hearing this question, which, however, he did not
+understand; and he immediately began to run down the bank to get the
+horse.
+
+"Because," said Rollo, still speaking in French, "that is what in
+English we call going _head over heels_."
+
+Henry led the horse round by a circuitous way back to the path. Rollo
+followed; and as soon as they reached it Rollo mounted again. Henry then
+took hold of the bridle of the horse and led him along till they got
+through the snow; after which they went on without any further
+difficulty.
+
+The path led for a time along a very wild and desolate region, which
+seemed to be bordered on the right, at a distance of two or three miles,
+by a range of stupendous precipices, surmounted by peaks covered with
+ice and snow, which presented to the view a spectacle of the most
+astonishing grandeur. At one point in the path Rollo saw at a distance
+before him a number of buildings scattered over a green slope of land.
+
+"Ah," said he to the guide, "we are coming to a village."
+
+"No," said the guide. "It is a pasturage. We are too high yet for a
+village."
+
+On asking for a further explanation, Rollo learned that the mountaineers
+were accustomed to drive their herds up the mountains in the summer to
+places too cold to be inhabited all the year round, and to live there
+with them in these little huts during the two or three months while the
+grass was green. The men would bring up their milking pails, their pans,
+their churns, their cheese presses, and their kettles for cooking, and
+thus live in a sort of encampment while the grass lasted, and make
+butter and cheese to carry down the mountain with them when they
+returned.
+
+At one time Rollo saw at the door of one of the huts a man with what
+seemed to be a long pole in his hand. It was bent at the lower end. The
+man came out of a hut, and, putting the bent end of the pole to the
+ground, he brought the other up near to his mouth, and seemed to be
+waiting for the travellers to come down to him.
+
+"What is he going to do?" asked Rollo.
+
+"He has got what we call an Alpine horn," said the guide; "and he is
+going to blow it for you, to let you hear the echoes."
+
+So, when Mr. George and Rollo reached the place, the man blew into the
+end of his pole, which proved to be hollow, and it produced a very loud
+sound, like that of a trumpet. The sounds were echoed against the face
+of a mountain which was opposite to the place in a very remarkable
+manner. Mr. George paid the man a small sum of money, and then they went
+on.
+
+Not long afterwards they came to another hut, which was situated
+opposite to a part of the mountain range where there was a great
+accumulation of ice and snow, that seemed to hang suspended, as it were,
+as if just ready to fall. A man stood at the door of this hut with a
+small iron cannon, which was mounted somewhat rudely on a block of wood,
+in his hand.
+
+"What is he going to do with that cannon?" asked Rollo.
+
+"He is going to fire it," said Henry, "to start down the avalanches from
+the mountain."
+
+Henry here pointed to the face of the mountain opposite to where they
+were standing, and showed Rollo the immense masses of ice and snow that
+seemed to hang suspended there, ready to fall.
+
+It is customary to amuse travellers in Switzerland with the story that
+the concussion produced by the discharge of a gun or a cannon will
+sometimes detach these masses, and thus hasten the fall of an avalanche;
+and though the experiment is always tried when travellers pass these
+places, I never yet heard of a case in which the effect was really
+produced. At any rate, in this instance,--though the man loaded his
+cannon heavily, and rammed the charge down well, and though the report
+was very loud and the echoes were extremely sharp and much
+prolonged,--there were no avalanches started by the concussion. Rollo
+and Mr. George watched the vast snow banks that overhung the cliffs with
+great interest for several minutes; but they all remained immovable.
+
+So Mr. George paid the man a small sum of money, and then they went on.
+
+After going on for an hour or two longer on this vast elevation, the
+path began gradually to descend into the valley of Grindelwald. The
+village of Grindelwald at length came into view, with the hundreds of
+cottages and hamlets that were scattered over the more fertile and
+cultivated region that surrounded it. The travellers could look down,
+also, upon the great glaciers of Grindelwald--two mighty streams of ice,
+half a mile wide and hundreds of feet deep, which come flowing very
+slowly down from the higher mountains, and terminate in icy precipices
+among the fields and orchards of the valley.[12] They determined to go
+and explore one of these glaciers the next day.
+
+As they drew near to the village, the people of the scattered cottages
+came out continually, as they saw them coming, with various plans to get
+money from them. At one place two pretty little peasant girls, in the
+Grindelwald costume, came out with milk for them. One of the girls held
+the pitcher and the other a mug; and they gave Mr. George and Rollo good
+drinks.[13] At another house a boy came out with filberts to sell; and
+at another the merchandise consisted of crystals and other shining
+minerals which had been collected in the mountains near.
+
+At one time Rollo saw before him three children standing in a row by the
+side of the road. They seemed to have something in their hands. When he
+reached the place, he found that they had for sale some very cunning
+little Swiss cottages carved in wood. These carvings were extremely
+small and very pretty. Each one was put in a small box for safe
+transportation. In some cases the children had nothing to sell, and they
+simply held out their hands to beg as the travellers went by; and there
+were several lame persons, and idiots, and blind persons, and other
+objects of misery that occasionally appeared imploring charity. As,
+however, these unfortunates were generally satisfied with an exceedingly
+small donation, it did not cost much to make them all look very happy.
+There is a Swiss coin, of the value of a fifth part of a cent, which was
+generally enough to give; so that, for a New York shilling, Rollo found
+he could make more than sixty donations--which was certainly very cheap
+charity.
+
+"In fact," said Rollo, "it is so cheap that I would rather give them the
+money than not."
+
+At length the party arrived safely at Grindelwald and put up at an
+excellent inn, with windows looking out upon the glaciers. The next day
+they went to see the glaciers; and on the day following they returned to
+Interlachen.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 10: Flowers dry faster and better between sheets of blotting
+paper than between those of common printing paper, such as is used for
+books; for the surface of this latter is covered with a sort of sizing
+used in the manufacture of it, and which prevents the moisture of the
+plant from entering into the paper.]
+
+[Footnote 11: See map.]
+
+[Footnote 12: It may seem strange that streams of ice, hundreds of feet
+thick and solid to the bottom, can _flow_; but such is the fact, as will
+appear more fully in the next chapter.]
+
+[Footnote 13: See frontispiece.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+GLACIERS.
+
+
+A glacier, when really understood, is one of the most astonishing and
+impressive spectacles which the whole face of Nature exhibits. Mr.
+George and Rollo explored quite a number of them in the course of their
+travels in Switzerland; and Rollo would have liked to have explored a
+great many more.
+
+[Illustration: THE CREVASSE.]
+
+A glacier is a river of ice,--really and truly a river of
+ice,--sometimes two or three miles wide, and fifteen or twenty miles
+long, with many branches coming into it. Its bed is a steep valley,
+commencing far up among the mountains in a region of everlasting ice and
+snow, and ending in some warm and pleasant valley far below, where the
+warm sun beats upon the terminus of it and melts the ice away as fast as
+it comes down. It flows very slowly, not usually more than an inch in an
+hour. The warm summer sun beams upon the upper surface of it, melting it
+slowly away, and forming vast fissures and clefts in it, down which you
+can look to the bottom, if you only have courage to go near enough to
+the slippery edge. If you do not dare to do this, you can get a large
+stone and throw it in; and then, if you stand still and listen, you hear
+it thumping and thundering against the sides of the crevasse until it
+gets too deep to be any longer heard. You cannot hear it strike the
+bottom; for it is sometimes seven or eight hundred feet through the
+thickness of the glacier to the ground below.
+
+The surface of the glacier above is not smooth and glassy like the ice
+of a freshly-frozen river or pond; but is white, like a field of snow.
+This appearance is produced in part by the snow which falls upon the
+glacier, and in part by the melting of the surface of the ice by the
+sun. From this latter cause, too, the surface of the glacier is covered,
+in a summer's day, with streams of water, which flow, like little
+brooks, in long and winding channels which they themselves have worn,
+until at length they reach some fissure, or crevasse, into which they
+fall and disappear. The waters of these brooks--many thousands in
+all--form a large stream, which flows along on the surface of the ground
+under the glacier, and comes out at last, in a wild, and roaring, and
+turbid torrent, from an immense archway in the ice at the lower end,
+where the glacier terminates among the green fields and blooming flowers
+of the lower valley.
+
+The glaciers are formed from the avalanches which fall into the upper
+valleys in cases where the valleys are so deep and narrow and so
+secluded from the sun that the snows which slide into them cannot melt.
+In such case, the immense accumulations which gather there harden and
+solidify, and become ice; and, what is very astonishing, the whole mass,
+solid as it is, moves slowly onward down the valley, following all the
+turns and indentations of its bed, until finally it comes down into the
+warm regions of the lower valleys, where the end of it is melted away by
+the sun as fast as the mass behind crowds it forward. It is certainly
+very astonishing that a substance so solid as ice can flow in this way,
+along a rocky and tortuous bed, as if it were semi-fluid; and it was a
+long time before men would believe that such a thing could be possible.
+It was, however, at length proved beyond all question that this motion
+exists; and the rate of it in different glaciers at different periods of
+the day or of the year has been accurately measured.
+
+If you go to the end of the glacier, where it comes out into the lower
+valley, and look up to the icy cliffs which form the termination of it,
+and watch there for a few minutes, you soon see masses of ice breaking
+off from the brink and falling down with a thundering sound to the rocks
+below. This is because the ice at the extremity is all the time pressed
+forward by the mass behind it; and, as it comes to the brink, it breaks
+over and falls down. This is one evidence that the glaciers move.
+
+But there is another proof that the ice of the glaciers is continually
+moving onward which is still more direct and decisive. Certain
+philosophers, who wished to ascertain positively what the truth was,
+went to a glacier, and, selecting a large rock which lay upon the
+surface of it near the middle of the ice, they made a red mark with
+paint upon the rock, and two other marks on the rocks which formed the
+shore of the glacier. They made these three marks exactly in a line with
+each other, expecting that, if the glacier moved, the rock in the centre
+of it would be carried forward, and the three marks would be no longer
+in a line.
+
+This proved to be the case. In a very short time the central rock was
+found to have moved forward very perceptibly. This was several years
+ago. This rock is still on the glacier; and the red mark on it, as well
+as those on the shores, still remains. All the travellers who visit the
+glacier look at these marks and observe how the great rock on the ice
+moves forward. It is now at a long distance below the place where it was
+when its position was first recorded.
+
+Then, besides, you can actually hear the glaciers moving when you stand
+upon them. It is sometimes very difficult to get upon them; for at the
+sides where the ice rubs against the rocks, immense chasms and fissures
+are formed, and vast blocks both of rock and ice are tumbled confusedly
+together in such a manner as to make the way almost impracticable. When,
+however, you fairly get upon the ice, if you stand still a moment and
+listen, you hear a peculiar groaning sound in the _moraines_. To
+understand this, however, I must first explain what a moraine is. On
+each side of the glacier, quite near the shore, there is usually found a
+ridge of rocks and stones extending up and down the glacier for the
+whole length of it, as if an immense wall formed of blocks of granite of
+prodigious magnitude had been built by giants to fence the glacier in,
+and had afterwards been shaken down by an earthquake, so as to leave
+only a confused and shapeless ridge of rocks and stones. These long
+lines of wall-like ruins may be traced along the borders of the glacier
+as far as the eye can reach. They lie just on the edge of the ice, and
+follow all the bends and sinuosities of the shore. It is a mystery how
+they are formed. All that is known, or rather all that can be here
+explained, is, that they are composed of the rocks which cleave off from
+the sides of the precipices and mountains that border the glacier, and
+that, when they have fallen down, the gradual movement of the ice draws
+them out into the long, ridge-like lines in which they now appear. Some
+of these moraines are of colossal magnitude, being in several places a
+hundred feet broad and fifty or sixty feet high; and, as you cannot get
+upon the glacier without crossing them, they are often greatly in the
+traveller's way. In fact, they sometimes form a barrier which is all but
+impassable.
+
+The glacier which most impressed Mr. George and Rollo with its magnitude
+and grandeur was one that is called the Sea of Ice. It is called by this
+name on account of its extent. Its lower extremity comes out into the
+valley of Chamouni, the beautiful and world-renowned valley, which lies
+near the foot of Mont Blanc. In order to reach this glacier, the young
+gentlemen took horses and guides at the inn at Chamouni, and ascended
+for about two hours by a steep, zigzag path, which led from the valley
+up the sides of the mountain at the place which formed the angle between
+the great valley of Chamouni and the side valley through which the great
+glacier came down. After ascending thus for six or eight miles, they
+came out upon a lofty promontory, from which, on one side, they could
+look down upon the wild and desolate bed of the glacier, and, upon the
+other, upon the green, and fertile, and inexpressibly beautiful vale of
+Chamouni, with the pretty little village in the centre of it. This
+place is called Montauvert. There is a small inn here, built expressly
+to accommodate travellers who wish to come up and go out upon the
+glacier.
+
+Although the traveller, when he reaches Montauvert, can look directly
+down upon the glacier, he cannot descend to it there; for, opposite to
+the inn, the valley of ice is bordered by cliffs and precipices a
+thousand feet high. It is necessary to follow along the bank two or
+three miles among stupendous rocks and under towering precipices, until
+at length a place is reached where, by dint of much scrambling and a
+great deal of help from the guide, it is possible to descend.
+
+[Illustration: THE NARROW PATH.]
+
+Rollo was several times quite afraid in making this perilous excursion.
+In some places there seemed to be no path at all; and it was necessary
+for him to make his way by clinging to the roughnesses of the rocks on
+the steep, sloping side of the mountain, with an immense abyss yawning
+below. There was one such place where it would have been impossible for
+any one not accustomed to mountain climbing to have got along without
+the assistance of guides. When they reached this place, one guide went
+over first, and then reached out his hand to assist Rollo. The other
+scrambled down upon the rocks below, and planted his pike staff in a
+crevice of the rock in order to make a support for a foot. By this
+means, first Mr. George, and then Rollo, succeeded in getting safely
+over.
+
+Both the travellers felt greatly relieved when they found themselves on
+the other side of this dangerous pass.
+
+In coming back, however, Rollo had the misfortune to lose his pike staff
+here. The staff slipped out of his hand as he was clinging to the
+rocks; and, after sliding down five or six hundred feet to the brink of
+the precipice, it shot over and fell a thousand feet to the glacier
+below, where it entered some awful chasm, or abyss, and disappeared
+forever.
+
+Mr. George and Rollo had a pretty hard time in scrambling over the
+moraine when they came to the place where they were to get upon the
+glacier. When they were fairly upon the glacier, however, they could
+walk along without any difficulty. It was like walking on wet snow in a
+warm day in spring. Little brooks were running in every direction, the
+bright waters sparkling in the sun. The crevasses attracted the
+attention of the travellers very strongly. They were immense fissures
+four or five feet wide, and extending downward perpendicularly to an
+unfathomable depth. Rollo and Mr. George amused themselves with throwing
+stones down. There were plenty of stones to be found on the glacier. In
+fact, rocks and stones of all sizes were scattered about very profusely,
+so much so as quite to excite Mr. George's astonishment.
+
+"I supposed," said he, "that the top of the glacier would be smooth and
+beautiful ice."
+
+"I did not think any thing about it," said Rollo.
+
+"I imagined it to be smooth, and glassy, and pure," said Mr. George;
+"and, instead of that, it looks like a field of old snow covered with
+scattered rocks and stones."
+
+Some of the rocks which lay upon the glacier were very large, several of
+them being as big as houses. It was remarkable, too, that the largest of
+them, instead of having settled down in some degree into the ice and
+snow, as it might have been expected from their great weight they would
+have done, were raised sometimes many feet above the general level of
+the glacier, being mounted on a sort of pedestal of ice. The reason of
+this was, that when the block was very large, so large that the beams of
+the sun shining upon it all day would not warm it through, then the ice
+beneath it would be protected by its coolness, while the surface of the
+glacier around would be gradually melted and wasted away by the beams of
+the sun or by the warm rains which might occasionally fall upon it.
+Thus, in process of time, the great bowlder block rises, as it were,
+many feet into the air, and remains there perched on the top of a little
+hillock of ice, like a mass of monumental marble on a pedestal.[14]
+
+In excursions on the glaciers the guides take a rope with them, and
+sometimes a light ladder. The rope is for various purposes. If a
+traveller were to fall into any deep pit, or crevasse, or to slip down
+some steep slope or precipice, so that he could not get up again, the
+guides might let the rope down to him, and then when he had fastened it
+around his waist they could draw him up, when, without some such means
+of rescuing him, he would be wholly lost. In the same manner, when a
+party are walking along any very steep and slippery place, where if any
+one were to fall he would slide down into some dreadful abyss, it is
+customary for them to walk in a line with the rope in their hands, each
+one taking hold of it. Thus, if any one should slip a little, he could
+recover himself by means of the rope, when, without such a support, he
+would perhaps have fallen and been dashed to pieces. Sometimes, when the
+place is very dangerous indeed, so that several guides are required to
+each traveller, they tie the rope round the traveller's waist, so that
+he can have his hands free and yet avail himself of the support of the
+rope in passing along.
+
+The ladder is used for scaling low precipices, either of rock or ice,
+which sometimes come in the way, and which could not be surmounted
+without such aid. In long and dangerous excursions, especially among the
+higher Alps, one of the guides always carries a ladder; and there are
+frequent occasions where it would not be possible to go on without using
+it.
+
+[Illustration: ASCENT OF MONT BLANC.]
+
+A hatchet, too, is of great advantage in climbing among the immense
+masses of ice which are found at great elevations, since, by means of
+such an implement, steps may be cut in the ice which will enable the
+explorer to climb up an ascent too long to be reached by the ladder and
+too steep to be ascended without artificial footholds. In ascending Mont
+Blanc the traveller sometimes comes to a precipice of ice, with a chasm
+of immense depth, and four or five feet wide, at the bottom of it. In
+such a case the foot of the ladder is planted on the outside of the
+chasm, and the top of it is made to rest against the face of the
+precipice, ten or fifteen feet perhaps from the brink. One of the
+boldest and most skilful of the guides then ascends the ladder, hatchet
+in hand, and there, suspended as he is over the yawning gulf below, he
+begins to cut steps in the face of the precipice, shaping the gaps which
+he makes in such a manner that he can cling to them with his hands as
+well as rest upon them with his feet. He thus slowly ascends the
+barrier, cutting his way as he advances. He carries the end of the rope
+up with him, tied around his waist; and then by means of it, when he has
+reached the summit, he aids the rest of the party in coming up to him.
+
+Mr. George and Rollo, however, did not venture into any such dangers as
+these. They could see all that they desired of the stupendous
+magnificence and awful desolation of these scenes without it. They spent
+the whole of the middle of the day on the glacier or on the slopes of
+the mountains around it; and then in the afternoon they came down the
+zigzag path again to Chamouni, very tired and very hungry.
+
+To be tired and hungry, however, when you come home at night to a Swiss
+inn, is a great source of enjoyment--on account of the admirable
+arrangements for rest and refreshment which you are sure to find there.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 14: Any loose rock of large size detached from its native
+ledge or mountain is called a _bowlder_.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+ROLLO A COURIER.
+
+
+Rollo came in one morning to the hotel at Meyringen, after having been
+taking a walk on the banks of a mighty torrent that flows through the
+valley, and found his uncle George studying the guide book and map, with
+an appearance of perplexity. Mr. George was seated at a table on a
+balcony, which opened from the dining room of the inn. This balcony was
+very large, and rooms opened from it in various directions. There were
+several tables here, with seats around them, where those who chose to do
+so could take their breakfast or their dinner in the open air, and enjoy
+the views of the surrounding mountains and waterfalls at the same time.
+Mr. George was seated at one of these tables, with his map and his guide
+book before him.
+
+"Well, uncle George," said Rollo, "are you planning our journey?"
+
+"Yes," said Mr. George; "and I am very much perplexed."
+
+"Why, what is the difficulty?" asked Rollo.
+
+"There is no possibility of getting out of this valley," said Mr.
+George, "except by going all the way back to Thun,--and that I am not
+willing to do."
+
+"Is there no _possible_ way?" asked Rollo.
+
+"No," said Mr. George, "unless we go over the Brunig Pass on foot."
+
+"Well," said Rollo, "let us do that."
+
+"We might possibly do that," continued Mr. George, still looking
+intently at his map. "We should have to go over the Brunig to Lungern on
+foot, with a horse for our baggage. Then we should have to take a car
+from Lungern down the valleys to the shore of Lake Lucerne, and there
+get a boat, for six or eight miles, on the lake to the town."
+
+"Well," said Rollo, joyfully, "I should like that."
+
+Rollo liked the idea of making the journey in the way that his uncle
+George had described, on account of the numerous changes which would be
+necessary in it, in respect to the modes of conveyance. It was for this
+very reason that his uncle did _not_ like it.
+
+"Yes, uncle George," said Rollo, again. "That will be an excellent way
+to go to Lucerne. Don't you think it will?"
+
+"No," said Mr. George. "It will be so much trouble. We shall have three
+different arrangements to make for conveyance, in one day."
+
+"No matter for that, uncle George," said Rollo. "I will do all that. Let
+me be the courier, uncle George, and I'll take you from here to Lucerne
+without your having the least trouble. I will make all the arrangements,
+so that you shall have nothing to do. You may read, if you choose, the
+whole of the way."
+
+"How will you find out what to do?" asked Mr. George.
+
+"O, I'll study the guide book carefully," replied Rollo; "and, besides,
+I'll inquire of the landlord here."
+
+"Well," said Mr. George, hesitatingly, "I have a great mind to try it."
+
+"Only you must pay me," said Rollo. "I can't be courier without being
+paid."
+
+"How much must I pay?" asked Mr. George.
+
+"Why, about a quarter of a dollar," replied Rollo.
+
+"It is worth more than that," said Mr. George. "I will give you half a
+dollar if you make all the arrangements and get me safe to Lucerne
+without my having any care or trouble. But then if you get into
+difficulty in any case, and have to appeal to me, you lose your whole
+pay. If you carry me through, I give you half a dollar. If you don't
+really carry me through, you have nothing."
+
+Rollo agreed to these conditions, and Mr. George proceeded to shut up
+the map and the guide book, and to put them in his hands.
+
+"I will sit down here now," said Rollo, "and study the map and the guide
+book until I have learned all I can from them, and then I will go and
+talk with the landlord."
+
+Mr. George did not make any reply to this remark, but taking out a small
+portfolio, containing writing materials, from his pocket, he set himself
+at work writing some letters; having, apparently, dismissed the whole
+subject of the mode of crossing the Brunig entirely from his mind.
+
+Rollo took his seat at a table on the balcony in a corner opposite to
+the place where his uncle was writing, and spread out the map before
+him. His seat commanded a very extended and magnificent view. In the
+foreground were the green fields, the gardens, and the orchards of the
+lower valley. Beyond, green pasturages were seen extending over the
+lower declivities of the mountains, with hamlets perched here and there
+upon the shelving rocks, and winding and zigzag roads ascending from one
+elevation to another, while here and there prodigious cataracts and
+cascades were to be seen, falling down hundreds of feet, over
+perpendicular precipices, or issuing from frightful chasms. Rollo
+stopped occasionally to gaze upon these scenes; and sometimes he would
+pause to put a spy glass to his eye, in order to watch the progress of
+the parties of travellers that were to be seen, from time to time,
+coming down along a winding path which descended the face of the
+mountain about two or three miles distant, across the valley. With the
+exception of these brief interruptions, Rollo continued very steadily at
+his work; and in about half an hour he shut up the map, and put it in
+its case, saying, in a tone of great apparent satisfaction,--
+
+"There! I understand it now perfectly."
+
+He was in hopes that his uncle would have asked him some questions about
+the route, in order that he might show how fully he had made himself
+acquainted with it; but Mr. George said nothing, and so Rollo went away
+to find the landlord.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+That night, just before bed time, Mr. George asked Rollo what time he
+was going to set out the next morning.
+
+"Immediately after breakfast," said Rollo.
+
+"Are we going to ride or walk?" asked Mr. George.
+
+"We are going to walk over the pass," said Rollo. "The road is too steep
+and rocky for horses. But then we are going to have a horse to carry the
+trunk."
+
+"Can you put our trunk on a horse?" asked Mr. George.
+
+"Yes," replied Rollo, "the guide says he can."
+
+"Very well," said Mr. George, "and just as soon as we get through
+breakfast I am going to walk on, and leave you to pack the trunk on the
+horse, and come along when you are ready."
+
+"Well," said Rollo, "you can do that."
+
+"Because, you see," continued Mr. George, "you will probably have
+various difficulties and delays in getting packed and ready, and I don't
+want to have any thing to do with it. I wish to have my mind entirely
+free, so as to enjoy the walk and the scenery without any care or
+responsibility whatever."
+
+Sometimes, when fathers or uncles employ boys to do any work, or to
+assume any charge, they stand by and help them all the time, so that the
+real labor and responsibility do not come on the boy after all. He gets
+paid for the work, and he _imagines_ that he does it--his father or his
+uncle allowing him to imagine so, for the sake of pleasing him. But
+there was no such child's play as this between Mr. George and Rollo.
+When Rollo proposed to undertake any duty, Mr. George always considered
+well, in the first instance, whether it was a duty that he was really
+competent to perform. If it was not, he would not allow him to undertake
+it. If it was, he left him to bear the whole burden and responsibility
+of it, entirely alone.
+
+Rollo understood this perfectly well, and he liked such a mode of
+management. He was, accordingly, not at all surprised to hear his uncle
+George propose to leave him to make all the arrangements of the journey
+alone.
+
+"You see," said Mr. George, "when I hire a courier I expect him to take
+all the care of the journey entirely off my mind, and leave me to
+myself, so that I can have a real good time."
+
+"Yes," said Rollo, "that is right."
+
+And here, perhaps, I ought to explain that what is called a courier, in
+the vocabulary of tourists in Europe, is a _travelling servant_, who,
+when he is employed by any party, takes the whole charge of their
+affairs, and makes all necessary arrangements, so that they can travel
+without any care or concern. He engages the conveyances and guides,
+selects the inns, pays the bills, takes charge of the baggage, and does
+every thing, in short, that is necessary to secure the comfort and
+safety of the party on their journey, and to protect them from every
+species of trouble and annoyance. He has himself often before travelled
+over the countries through which he is to conduct his party, so that he
+is perfectly familiar with them in every part, and he knows all the
+languages that it is necessary to speak in them. Thus when once under
+the charge of such a guide, a gentleman journeying in Europe, even if he
+has his whole family with him, need have no care or concern, but may be
+as quiet and as much at his ease, all the time, as if he were riding
+about his own native town in his private carriage.
+
+The next morning, after breakfast, Mr. George rose from the table, and
+prepared to set out on his journey. He put the belt of his knapsack over
+his shoulder, and took his alpenstock in his hand.
+
+"Good by, Rollo," said he. "I will walk on, taking the road to the
+Brunig, and you can come when you get ready. You will overtake me in the
+course of half an hour, or an hour."
+
+Rollo accompanied Mr. George to the door, and then wishing him a
+pleasant walk, bade him good by.
+
+In a few minutes the guide came around the corner of the house, from the
+inn yard, leading the horse. He stopped to water the horse at a
+fountain in the street, and then led him to the door. In the mean time
+the porter of the inn had brought down the trunk, and then the guide
+proceeded to fasten it upon the saddle of the horse, by means of two
+strong straps. The saddle was what is called a pack saddle, and was made
+expressly to receive such burdens.
+
+After having placed the trunk and secured it firmly, the guide put on
+the umbrella, and Mr. George's and Rollo's greatcoats, and also Rollo's
+knapsack. These things made quite a pile on the horse's back. The burden
+was increased, too, by several things belonging to the guide himself,
+which he put on over all the rest, such as a great-coat and a little bag
+of provisions.
+
+At length, when all was ready, Rollo bade the innkeeper good by, and set
+out on his journey. The guide went first, driving the horse before him,
+and Rollo followed, with his alpenstock in his hand.
+
+They soon passed out of the village, and then travelled along a very
+pleasant road, which skirted the foot of the mountain range,--all the
+time gradually ascending. Rollo looked out well before him, whenever he
+came to a straight part of the road, in hopes of seeing his uncle; but
+Mr. George was nowhere in view.
+
+Presently he came to a place where there was a gate, and a branch path,
+turning off from the main road, directly towards the mountain. Here
+Rollo, quite to his relief and gratification, found his uncle. Mr.
+George was sitting on a stone by the side of the road, reading.
+
+He shut his book when he saw Rollo and the guide, and put it away in his
+knapsack. At the same time he rose from his seat, saying,--
+
+"Well, Rollo, which is the way?"
+
+"I don't know," said Rollo.
+
+The guide, however, settled the question by taking hold of the horse's
+bridle, and leading him off into the side path. The two travellers
+followed him.
+
+The path led through a very romantic and beautiful scene of fields,
+gardens, and groves, among the trees of which were here and there seen
+glimpses of magnificent precipices and mountains rising very near, a
+little beyond them. After following this path a few steps, two girls
+came running out from a cottage. One of them had a board under her arm.
+The other had nothing. They both glanced at the travellers, as they
+passed, and then ran forward along the road before them.
+
+"What do you suppose those girls are going to do?" asked Rollo.
+
+"I can't conceive," replied Mr. George. "Some thing for us to pay for,
+I'll engage."
+
+"And shall you pay them?" asked Rollo.
+
+"No," said Mr. George. "_I_ shall not pay them. I shall leave all such
+business to my courier."
+
+The purpose with which the two girls had come out was soon made to
+appear; for after running along before the party of travellers for about
+a quarter of a mile, they came to a place where two shallow but rather
+broad brooks flowed across the pathway. When Rollo and Mr. George came
+up to the place they found that the girls had placed boards over these
+streams of water for bridges. One of the boards was the one which the
+girl had brought along with her, under her arm. The other girl, it
+seems, kept her board under the bushes near the place, because it was
+too heavy to carry back and forth to the house. It was their custom to
+watch for travellers coming along the path, and then to run on before
+them and lay these bridges over the brooks,--expecting, of course, to be
+paid for it. Rollo gave them each a small piece of money, and then he
+and Mr. George went on.
+
+Soon the road began to ascend the side of the mountain in long zigzags
+and windings. These windings presented new views of the valley below at
+every turn, each successive picture being more extended and grand than
+the preceding.
+
+At length, after ascending some thousands of feet, the party came to a
+resting-place, consisting of a seat in a sort of bower, which had been
+built for the accommodation of travellers, at a turn of the road where
+there was an uncommonly magnificent view. Here they stopped to rest,
+while the guide, leading the horse to a spring at the road side, in
+order that he might have a drink, sat down himself on a flat stone
+beside him.
+
+"How far is it that we have got to walk?" asked Mr. George.
+
+Rollo looked at his watch, and then said, "We have got to walk about
+three hours more."
+
+"And what shall we come to then?" asked Mr. George.
+
+"We shall come down on the other side of the mountain," said Rollo, "to
+a little village called Lungern, where there is a good road; and there I
+am going to hire a carriage, and a man to drive us to the lake. It is a
+beautiful country that we are going through, and the road leads along
+the shores of mountain lakes. The first lake is up very high among the
+mountains. The next is a great deal lower down, and we have to go down a
+long way by a zigzag road, till we get to it. Then we go along the shore
+of this second lake, through several towns, and at last we come to the
+landing on the Lake of Lucerne. There I shall hire a boat."
+
+"What kind of a boat?" asked Mr. George.
+
+"I don't know," said Rollo.
+
+"How do you know that there will be any boat there?" asked Mr. George.
+
+"Because the guide book says there will," replied Rollo. "They always
+have boats there to take people that come along this road to Lucerne."
+
+"Why do they not go all the way by land?" asked Mr. George.
+
+"Because," said Rollo, "the whole country there is so full of mountains
+that there is no place for a road."
+
+Just at this time the guide got up from his seat, and seemed ready to
+set out upon his journey; and so Mr. George and Rollo rose and went on.
+
+After ascending about an hour more, through a series of very wild and
+romantic glens, with cottages and curious-looking chalets scattered here
+and there along the borders of them, wherever the ground was smooth and
+green enough for cattle to feed, our travellers came, at length, to the
+summit of the pass, where, in a very pleasant and sheltered spot,
+surrounded with forest trees, there stood a little inn. On arriving at
+this place the guide proceeded to take off the load from the horse and
+to place it upon a sort of frame, such as is used in those countries for
+burdens which are to be carried on the back of a man.
+
+"What is he going to do?" asked Mr. George.
+
+"He is going to carry the baggage the rest of the way himself," said
+Rollo. "You see it is so steep and rocky from here down to Lungern that
+it is dreadful hard work to get a horse down and up again; especially
+_up_. So the guide leaves the horse here, and is going to carry the
+baggage down himself on his back. That rack that he is fastening the
+trunk upon goes on his back. Those straps in front of it come over his
+shoulders."
+
+"It seems to me," said Mr. George, "that that is a monstrous heavy load
+to put on a man's back, to go down a place which is so steep and rocky
+that a horse could not get along over it. But then I suppose my courier
+knows what he is about."
+
+So Mr. George, with an air and manner which seemed to say, It is none of
+my concern, walked up a flight of steps which led to a sort of elevated
+porch or platform before the door of the inn.
+
+For a moment Rollo himself was a little disconcerted, not knowing
+whether it would be safe for a man to go down a steep declivity with
+such a burden on his back; but when he reflected that this was the
+arrangement that the guide himself had proposed, and that the guide had,
+doubtless, done the same thing a hundred times before, he ceased to feel
+any uneasiness, and following Mr. George up the steps, he took a seat by
+his side, at a little table, which was placed there for the
+accommodation of travellers stopping at the inn to rest.
+
+Rollo and his uncle spent half an hour at this hotel. For refreshment
+they had some very excellent and rich Alpine milk, which they drank from
+very tall and curiously-shaped tumblers. They also amused themselves in
+looking at some specimens of carved work, such as models of Swiss
+cottages--and figures of shepherds, and milkmaids with loads of utensils
+on their backs--and groups of huntsmen, with dogs leaping up around
+them--and chamois, or goats, climbing about among the rocks and
+mountains. Rollo had bought a pretty good supply of such sculptures
+before; but there was one specimen here that struck his fancy so much
+that he could not resist the temptation of adding it to his collection,
+especially as Mr. George approved of his making the purchase. It was a
+model of what is called a chalet,[15] which is a sort of hut that the
+shepherds occupy in the upper pasturages, in the summer, where they go
+to tend the cows, and to make butter and cheese. The little chalet was
+made in such a manner that the roof would lift up like a lid, and let
+you see all there was within. There was a row of cows, with little
+calves by them, in stalls on one side of the chalet, and on the other
+side tables and benches, with pans of milk and tubs upon them, and a
+churn, and a cheese press, and other such like things. There was a bed,
+too, for the shepherd, in a sort of a garret above, just big enough to
+hold it.
+
+In about half an hour the guide seemed ready to proceed, and the whole
+party set out again on their journey. The guide went before, with the
+trunk and all the other baggage piled up on the rack behind him. He had
+a stout staff in his hand, which he used to prevent himself from
+falling, in going down the steep and rocky places. Some of these places
+were very steep and rocky indeed--so much so that going down them was a
+work of climbing rather than walking, and Rollo himself was sometimes
+almost afraid. What made these places the more frightful was, that the
+path in descending them was often exceedingly narrow, and was bordered,
+on one side, by a perpendicular wall of rock, and by an unfathomable
+abyss of rocks and roaring cataracts on the other. To behold the skill
+and dexterity with which the guide let himself down, from rock to rock,
+in this dreadful defile, loaded as he was, excited both in Mr. George
+and Rollo a continual sentiment of wonder.
+
+At length the steepest part of the descent was accomplished, and then
+the road led, for a mile, through a green and pretty valley, with lofty
+rocks and mountains on either hand, and chalets and pretty cottages at
+various distances along the roadside. At one place, in a very romantic
+and delightful spot, they came to a small chapel. It had been built
+there to commemorate some remarkable event, and to afford a
+resting-place for travellers. The door of this chapel was fastened, but
+Rollo could look in through a window and see the altar, and the
+crucifix, and the tall candles, within. He and Mr. George sat down, too,
+on the stone step of the chapel for a little while, to rest, and to
+enjoy the view. While they were there another traveller came by,
+ascending from Lungern, and he stopped to rest there too. He was lame,
+and seemed to be poor. He had a pack on his back. Mr. George talked with
+this man in French while they sat together on the steps of the chapel,
+and when he went away Mr. George gave him a little money.
+
+After leaving the chapel the travellers continued their descent, the
+valley opening before them more and more as they proceeded, until, at
+length, the village of Lungern came in sight, far below them, at the
+head of a little lake.
+
+"There!" said Rollo, as soon as the village came in sight. "That is
+Lungern. That is the place where the carriage road begins."
+
+"I am glad of that," said Mr. George. "A ride in a carriage will be very
+pleasant after all this scrambling over the mountains--that is, provided
+you get a good carriage."
+
+When, at length, the party reached the inn, the guide set down his load
+on a bench at the door of it, and, smiling, seemed quite pleased to be
+rid of the heavy burden.
+
+"Are we going to take dinner here?" said Mr. George to Rollo.
+
+"No, sir," said Rollo. "At least, I don't know. We'll see."
+
+The landlord of the inn met the travellers at the door, and conducted
+them up a flight of stone stairs, and thence into a room where several
+tables were set, and different parties of travellers were taking
+refreshments. The landlord, after showing them into this room, went down
+stairs again to attend to other travellers. Mr. George and Rollo walked
+into the room. After looking about the room a moment, however, Rollo
+said he must go down and see about a carriage.
+
+"Wait here a few minutes, uncle George," said he, "while I go and engage
+a carriage, and then I will come back."
+
+So saying, Rollo went away, and Mr. George took his seat by a window.
+
+Presently the waiter came to Mr. George, and asked him, in French, if he
+wished for any refreshment.
+
+"I don't know," said Mr. George. "I will wait till the boy comes back,
+and then we'll see."
+
+In a short time Rollo came back.
+
+"The carriage will be ready in twenty minutes," said he.
+
+"Very well," said Mr. George. "And the waiter wants to know whether we
+are going to have any thing to eat."
+
+"Yes," said Rollo, "we are going to have a luncheon."
+
+Rollo then went to the waiter, and said, in French, "Bread, butter,
+coffee, and strawberries, for two." "Very well, sir," said the waiter,
+and he immediately went away to prepare what Rollo had ordered.
+
+In due time the refreshment was ready, and Mr. George and Rollo sat down
+to the table, with great appetites. Every thing was very nice. The
+strawberries, in particular, though very small in size, as the Alpine
+strawberries always are, were very abundant in quantity, and delicious
+in flavor. There was also plenty of rich cream to eat them with. When,
+at length, the travellers had finished eating their luncheon, the
+landlord came to say that the carriage was ready. So Rollo paid the
+bill, and then he and Mr. George went down to the door. Here they found
+a very pretty chaise, with a seat in front for the driver, all ready for
+them. The trunk and all the other baggage were strapped securely on
+behind. Mr. George and Rollo got in. The top of the chaise was down, so
+that the view was unobstructed on every side.
+
+"Well," said Rollo, "do you think it _is_ a good carriage?"
+
+"A most excellent one," said Mr. George. "We shall have a delightful
+ride, I am sure."
+
+Mr. George was not disappointed in his anticipations of a delightful
+ride. The day was very pleasant, and the scenery of the country through
+which they had to pass was as romantic and beautiful as could be
+imagined. The road descended rapidly, from valley to valley, sometimes
+by sharp zigzags, and sometimes by long and graceful meanderings,
+presenting at every turn some new and charming view. There were green
+valleys, and shady dells, and foaming cascades, and dense forests, and
+glassy lakes, and towering above the whole, on either side, were vast
+mountain slopes, covered with forests, and ranges of precipitous rocks,
+their summits shooting upward, in pinnacles, to the very clouds.
+
+After journeying on in this manner for some hours the carriage arrived
+at an inn on the shores of the Lake of Lucerne. There was a landing
+there, and a number of boats, drawn up near a little pier.
+
+"Yes," exclaimed Rollo, when he saw the boats, "this is the place. The
+name of it is Alpnach. We are to go the rest of the way by water."
+
+"That will be very pleasant," said Mr. George, as he got out of the
+carriage. "I shall like a row on the lake very much. I will go directly
+down to the landing, and you can come when you get ready."
+
+So Mr. George walked on down to the pier, leaving Rollo to perform his
+duties as a courier, according to his own discretion.
+
+Rollo first paid the driver of the carriage what was due to him,
+according to the agreement that he had made with the Lungern landlord,
+and then explained to the Alpnach landlord, in as good French as he
+could command, that he wanted a boat, to take him and the gentleman who
+was travelling with him to Lucerne, and asked what the price would be.
+The landlord named the regular price, and Rollo engaged the boat. The
+landlord then sent for a boatman. In a few minutes the boatman was seen
+coming. He was followed by two rather pretty-looking peasant girls, each
+bringing an oar on her shoulder. These two girls were the boatman's
+daughters. They were going with their father in the boat, to help him
+row.
+
+The boatman took up the trunk, and the girls the other parcels of
+baggage, and so carried the whole, together with the oars, down to the
+boat. Rollo followed them, and the whole party immediately embarked. It
+was a bright and sunny day, though there were some dark and heavy clouds
+in the western sky. The water of the lake was very smooth, and it
+reflected the mountains and the skies in a very beautiful manner. Mr.
+George and Rollo took their seats in the boat, under an awning that was
+spread over a frame in the central portion of it. This awning sheltered
+them from the sun, while it did not intercept their view. The man and
+the girls took each of them an oar, standing up, however, to row, and
+_pushing_ the oar before them, instead of _pulling_ it, according to
+our fashion.[16] Thus they commenced the voyage.
+
+Every thing went on very pleasantly for an hour, only, as the boatman
+and his daughters could speak no language but German, Mr. George and
+Rollo could have no conversation with them. But they could talk with
+each other, and they had a very pleasant time. At length, however, the
+clouds which had appeared in the western sky rose higher and higher, and
+grew blacker and blacker, and, finally, low, rumbling peals of thunder
+began to be heard. The boatman talked with his daughters, pointing to
+the clouds, and then said something to Mr. George in German; but neither
+Mr. George nor Rollo could understand it. They soon found, however, that
+the boat was turned towards the shore. They were very glad of this, for
+Rollo said that he had read in the guide book that the Swiss lakes were
+subject to very violent tempests, such as it would be quite dangerous to
+encounter far from the shore. Rollo said, moreover, that the boatmen
+were very vigilant in watching for the approach of these storms, and
+that they would always at once make the best of their way to the land
+whenever they saw one coming on.
+
+In this instance the wind began to blow, and the rain to fall, before
+the boat reached the shore. Rollo and Mr. George were sheltered by the
+awning, but the boatman and the two girls got very wet. They, however,
+continued to work hard at the oars, and at length they reached the
+shore. The place where they landed was in a cove formed by a point of
+land, where there was a little inn near the water. As soon as the boat
+reached the shore Mr. George and Rollo leaped out of it, and spreading
+their umbrella they ran up to the inn.
+
+They waited here nearly an hour. They sat on a piazza in front of the
+inn, listening to the sound of the thunder and of the wind, and watching
+the drops of rain falling on the water. At length the wind subsided, the
+rain gradually ceased, and the sun came out bright and beaming as ever.
+The party then got into the boat, and the boatman pushed off from the
+shore; and in an hour more they all landed safely on the quay at
+Lucerne, very near to a magnificent hotel.
+
+Our two travellers were soon comfortably seated at a table in the dining
+room of the hotel before an excellent dinner, which Rollo had ordered.
+Mr. George told Rollo, as they took their seats at the table, that he
+had performed his duty as a courier in a very satisfactory manner, and
+had fully earned his pay.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 15: Pronounced _shallay_.]
+
+[Footnote 16: The Swiss always stand up in rowing, and _push_ the oar.
+Thus they look the way they are going.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+CONCLUSION.
+
+
+It is not possible to describe in such a volume as this more than a
+small part of the excursions which Mr. George and Rollo made or the
+adventures which they met with in the course of their tour in
+Switzerland. They remained in the country of the Alps more than a
+fortnight; and they enjoyed, as Rollo said, every moment of the time.
+There was no end to the cascades and waterfalls, the ice and snow-clad
+summits, the glaciers, the romantic zigzag paths up the mountain sides,
+the picturesque hamlets and cottages, and the groups of peasants toiling
+in the fields or tending flocks and herds in the higher pasturages.
+Rollo's heart was filled all the time that he remained among these
+scenes with never-ceasing wonder and delight. The inns pleased him, too,
+as much perhaps as any thing else; for the climbing of mountains and the
+long excursions on foot gave him a most excellent appetite; and at the
+inns they always found such nice breakfasts, dinners, and suppers every
+day that Rollo was never tired of praising them.
+
+Rollo found the cost, too, of travelling in Switzerland much less than
+he had expected. He did not expend nearly all the allowance which his
+father had granted him. When he came to settle up his accounts, after he
+had got back to Paris, he found that he had saved about seventy-five
+francs, which made nearly fifteen dollars; and this sum he accordingly
+added to his _capital_--for that was the name by which he was accustomed
+to designate the stock of funds which he had gradually accumulated and
+reserved.
+
+Just before Mr. George and Rollo left Switzerland, on their return to
+Paris, they received a letter from Mr. Holiday, who was still in Paris,
+in consequence of which they concluded to make a short tour on the Rhine
+on their way to France. The adventures which they met with on this tour
+will form the subject of another volume of this series.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Rollo in Switzerland, by Jacob Abbott
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