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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Your Plants, by James Sheehan
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Your Plants
+       Plain and Practical Directions for the Treatment of Tender
+       and Hardy Plants in the House and in the Garden
+
+Author: James Sheehan
+
+Release Date: May 15, 2007 [EBook #21442]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK YOUR PLANTS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Tom Roch, Janet Blenkinship and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images produced by Core Historical
+Literature in Agriculture (CHLA), Cornell University)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  YOUR PLANTS.
+
+  PLAIN AND PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS
+  FOR THE TREATMENT OF
+  TENDER AND HARDY PLANTS
+  IN THE
+  HOUSE AND IN THE GARDEN.
+
+
+  BY
+  JAMES SHEEHAN.
+
+
+  NEW YORK:
+  ORANGE JUDD COMPANY,
+  1919
+
+  Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1884, by the
+  ORANGE JUDD COMPANY,
+  In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+  CONTENTS.
+
+
+                                                                   PAGE.
+
+  CHAPTER I.
+  How to Make a Lawn                                                   7
+
+  CHAPTER II.
+  Soil for Potting--Artificial Fertilizers                            10
+
+  CHAPTER III.
+  Selecting and Sowing Seeds                                          12
+
+  CHAPTER IV.
+  Making and Planting Flower Beds                                     14
+
+  CHAPTER V.
+  Watering Plants--Is Cold Water Injurious?                           16
+
+  CHAPTER VI.
+  Atmosphere and Temperature.--Insects                                19
+
+  CHAPTER VII.
+  Wintering Plants in Cellars                                         21
+
+  CHAPTER VIII.
+  The Law of Color in Flowers                                         22
+
+  CHAPTER IX.
+  The Relation of Plants to Health                                    23
+
+  CHAPTER X.
+  Layering                                                            25
+
+  CHAPTER XI.
+  Propagation of Plants from Cuttings                                 26
+
+  CHAPTER XII.
+  Grafting                                                            29
+
+  CHAPTER XIII.
+  Hanging Baskets, Wardian Cases and Jardinieres                      31
+
+  CHAPTER XIV.
+  Aquatics--Water Lilies                                              35
+
+  CHAPTER XV.
+  Hardy Climbing Vines.--Ivies                                        37
+
+  CHAPTER XVI.
+  Annual Flowering Plants--Pansy Culture                              39
+
+  CHAPTER XVII.
+  Fall or Holland Bulbs                                               42
+
+  CHAPTER XVIII.
+  Tropical Bulbs.--Tuberoses                                          44
+
+  CHAPTER XIX.
+  Roses, Cultivation, and Propagating                                 46
+
+  CHAPTER XX.
+  Japan and other Lilies.--Calla Lilies                               50
+
+  CHAPTER XXI.
+  Geraniums, the Best Twelve Sorts                                    53
+
+  CHAPTER XXII.
+  Azaleas; How to Cultivate Them                                      53
+
+  CHAPTER XXIII.
+  Camellias.--Orange and Lemon Trees                                  55
+
+  CHAPTER XXIV.
+  Fuchsias, Training and Management                                   57
+
+  CHAPTER XXV.
+  Cactuses--Night Blooming Cereus.--Rex Begonias                      59
+
+  CHAPTER XXVI.
+  Rockeries--How to Make Them                                         62
+
+  CHAPTER XXVII.
+  Budding                                                             64
+
+  CHAPTER XXVIII.
+  Pruning                                                             68
+
+  CHAPTER XXIX.
+  Miscellaneous Notes                                                 72
+
+  CHAPTER XXX.
+  Sentiment and Language of Flowers                                   76
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+In the winter of the year 1880, while the author was in attendance upon
+a large horticultural meeting in a neighboring city, which was attended
+by nearly all the leading florists and nurserymen in Western New York,
+the idea of writing this work was first suggested to him.
+
+An intelligent lady, present at that meeting, widely known for her skill
+and success as an amateur florist, in conversation with the writer made
+the following remarks: "I have in my library at least a dozen different
+works on floriculture, some of them costly, all of which I have read
+over and over again, often having to pore over a large volume of almost
+useless matter, in order to find information on some points I was
+looking for.
+
+"It has occurred to me that some one ought to write a work on flowers,
+for the use of amateurs, that would contain in a brief space all the
+requisite information ordinarily needed by those who cultivate flowers
+in and about their homes. I predict that such a work could not fail to
+meet and merit a general demand."
+
+In writing this little volume, I have earnestly endeavored to carry out,
+as near as I could, the above suggestions. How far I have succeeded in
+accomplishing this end, my readers must judge.
+
+I trust that "Your Plants" will be useful and instructive in the field
+it was designed to occupy--that of a help to amateurs in the successful
+cultivation of plants and flowers in the house and garden.
+
+   JAMES SHEEHAN.
+  _Geneva, N. Y., October, 1884._
+
+
+
+
+YOUR PLANTS.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+HOW TO MAKE A LAWN.
+
+
+A smooth lawn is a great attraction of itself, even if there is not a
+tree or shrub upon it. When it is once made, a lawn is easily kept in
+order, yet we seldom see a good one. There are three things to be taken
+into consideration in securing a fine lawn. First, location; Second,
+quality of the soil; Third, the kinds of seed to be sown.
+
+
+LOCATION.
+
+This is the most important matter relating to a good lawn. In selecting
+a site upon which to build, not the least consideration should be the
+possibility of having a fine lawn, one that will cost as little as
+possible to keep in a nice and attractive condition. The nearer level
+the land is, the better. If a house is built on an elevation back from
+the road, a sloping lawn has a good effect. Where the land is rolling
+and hilly, it should be graded into successive terraces, which, though
+rather expensive, will look well. Low lands should be avoided as much as
+possible in selecting a site on which it is intended to make a good
+lawn. Low land can be improved by thorough under-drainage. If the land
+is wet on which we design making a lawn, we should first thoroughly
+underdrain it by laying tiles two rods apart, and two feet below the
+surface. Large-growing trees should never be planted on the lawn, grass
+will not thrive under them. Fruit trees, like the apple, cherry, and
+peach, are exceedingly out of place on a fine lawn. The finest yard we
+ever saw had not a tree on it that exceeded ten feet in hight. Flowering
+shrubs, low-growing evergreens, a few weeping and deciduous trees of
+moderate size, with flower-beds neatly planted, make an attractive
+door-yard.
+
+
+SOIL.
+
+This is the mother of all vegetation. Nothing, not even grass, will
+flourish on a poor soil. The quality of the soil varies in different
+localities. We often find a fine sward on a stiff clay soil, and also on
+a light gravelly one. The soil best adapted to the growth of a good
+sward, is a sandy loam with a gravelly bottom. In making new lawns,
+there is sometimes more or less grading to be done, and often where a
+knoll has been cut off the sub-soil is exposed, and it will not do to
+sow the seed upon these patches until the spots have been thoroughly
+covered with manure which is to be worked in. If a new lawn of any
+extent is to be made, it should first be plowed deep, and if uneven and
+hilly, grade it to a level surface. The surface should have a heavy
+dressing of manure, which should be lightly plowed under, and then the
+surface should be dragged several times until fine, and then rolled with
+a heavy roller. The seed may now be sown, after which it should be
+rolled again. The spring is the best time to do this work, although if
+the fall be dry, it will answer nearly as well to do it at that time.
+The dryer the ground in preparing it for the seed, and for the sowing of
+the same, the better. In preparing a small plot of ground for a lawn,
+the spade, hand-rake, and small roller may be used in place of the
+larger implements.
+
+
+SEED.
+
+Much difficulty is often experienced in obtaining a good mixture of
+grass seed for the lawn, and different mixtures are recommended and sold
+for sowing lawns, some of which are entirely worthless. Great pains
+should be taken to have nothing but first-class seeds, which should be
+obtained direct of some responsible dealer. The finest sward we ever saw
+was made from the following mixture:
+
+  10 quarts Rhode Island Bent-grass.
+   4   "    White Clover.
+   8   "    Kentucky Blue-grass.
+   6   "    Red-top Grass.
+
+Sow at the rate of six bushels to the acre. Grass seed can be sown in
+the fall any time from the first of October to the first of December. If
+the seed be sound, a good sward may be expected the following summer,
+and a good turf may be expected from spring sown seeds if the season is
+not too dry. The dryer the ground is when the seeds are sown, the
+better. To keep the lawn in a flourishing condition, fresh and green all
+summer, it will need a top-dressing of well-rotted manure applied in the
+fall, at least once every two years. Grass roots derive their
+nourishment close to the surface, hence the great advantage of
+top-dressing. In some localities where the frost "heaves" the sod to any
+extent during the winter, it will be advantageous to roll it down in the
+spring with a heavy roller, doing it just after a heavy rain. When the
+ground is soft and pliable, this will make the surface smooth, and in
+proper condition for the lawn-mower to pass over it.
+
+Frequent mowing will thicken the sward. It is not necessary to sow oats,
+as some do, to shade the ground until the seeds have started, that is an
+"old fogy" notion, and is now obsolete.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+SOIL FOR POTTING.--ARTIFICIAL FERTILIZERS.
+
+
+Good, fresh, rich soil, is an element that is indispensable to the
+growth of healthy, vigorous plants. A plant cannot be thrifty if grown
+in soil that has become musty and stale with long continued use; it must
+have fresh soil, at least once a year.
+
+Perhaps the best soil for general potting purposes, and the kind most
+extensively used by florists, is a mixture of equal parts of decayed
+sods, and well-rotted stable manure, and occasionally, especially if the
+sod is clayey, a little sand is added. The sods for this purpose may be
+obtained from along the road-side, almost anywhere, while good stable
+manure is always readily obtainable. Select some out-of-the-way place in
+the lot, or garden, and gather the sods in quantity proportioned to the
+amount of potting to be done. Lay down a course of the sods, and on top
+of this, an equal course of well-rotted manure, and so on, alternately,
+until the heap is finished; the last layer being sod. This heap should
+be turned over carefully, two or three times a year, breaking up the
+sods finely with a spade, or fork. The whole mass will become thoroughly
+mixed, rotted, and fit for use in a year from the time the heap was
+made. For those who have a large number of plants, we think it will pay
+to adopt this method of preparing soil for them, instead of purchasing
+it of the florist at twenty-five cents or more per bushel. Some florists
+sport a great variety of different soils, which are used in the growing
+of plants of different natures, requiring, as they claim, particular
+kinds of soil.
+
+Whatever of truth, if any, there is in this view, it has never been
+demonstrated to our mind. All kinds of plants have a common requirement
+in respect to soil, and the differences in growth of various species is
+attributable to climate and other causes than that of soil. At least
+that has been our experience.
+
+
+ARTIFICIAL FERTILIZERS.
+
+This question is frequently asked! Do you recommend the use of
+artificial fertilizers for house plants, and does it benefit them? I
+invariably answer yes, if used judiciously. The use of good special
+fertilizers will help the growth of some kinds of plants, which, without
+such aid, would scarcely meet our expectations. The term artificial
+fertilizers, applies to all manurial applications, save those produced
+by domestic animals.
+
+I have always believed, however, that when any fertilizer is needed,
+good, well-rotted stable-manure should have the preference over all
+artificial fertilizers. Where this manure cannot be readily obtained, or
+used conveniently, then special fertilizers can be employed as
+substitutes with good results. In applying manure in the liquid form to
+plants, use an ounce of guano to every gallon of water, and apply it to
+those plants that are in a healthy growing condition, about once every
+two weeks. It is a mistake to try to stimulate into growth, by the use
+of fertilizers, those plants which give every indication of being sickly
+or stunted; they will make such a plant sicker, if they do not kill it
+outright. If guano is used in potting soil, it should be in the
+proportion of one pound to every bushel of soil.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+SELECTING AND SOWING SEEDS.
+
+
+All individuals of the vegetable world are so created as to reproduce
+themselves from seed or its equivalent. Every plant that grows seems to
+possess the power to perpetuate its kind. All kinds of flowering plants
+can be grown from the seed, providing good, sound seeds are obtained,
+and they are placed under the proper influences to make them germinate
+and grow.
+
+The amateur cultivator has many difficulties to contend with in raising
+plants from seed. Some times it is difficult to obtain pure, sound
+seeds, but these should always be secured if possible, taking great
+pains in selecting varieties, and in obtaining them of some reliable
+dealer. If we sow seeds, and they fail to germinate, our first thought
+is to censure the dealer or raiser of the seed for lack of integrity in
+his business, while in reality the fault may be our own, and due to
+careless sowing.
+
+Those who raise seed for the market take great pains to produce none but
+good, sound seeds, and in nine cases out of ten, where seeds fail to
+germinate and grow, the fault is with those who sow them, and not on
+account of poor quality of seed. This we know from experience.
+
+Three things are absolutely essential in the sowing of seeds, in order
+to have that success which we all desire to attain:
+
+First; care should be taken to obtain fresh, pure seeds, without which
+all our after work with them will be in vain.
+
+Second; the soil in which to sow them should be a fine, mellow loam,
+free from stones and other coarse materials.
+
+Thirdly; sowing the seed. The general custom is to sow in drills. The
+depth at which seeds should be sown must of course be regulated
+according to their fineness, or coarseness.
+
+Seeds that are exceptionally fine, like those of Lobelias, Petunias,
+Ferns, and other very tiny seeds, ought never to be covered deeper than
+the sixteenth of an inch, with very fine soil sifted on them through a
+fine sieve; the soil should then be lightly patted down with the back of
+a shovel. This will prevent the seeds from shriveling before they start
+to germinate.
+
+Seeds like those of the Pansy, Verbena, etc., require a covering of a
+quarter to a half inch of soil, while those like the Nasturtium,
+Ricinus, etc., may be covered to the depth of an inch.
+
+The regular florist has facilities for raising plants from seed that
+most amateurs do not possess, but we will give a few suggestions that
+will enable those who desire to start their own plants, to do it
+successfully by the aid of the directions here given.
+
+A cheap and simple method is, to take four plain boards, of an equal
+length, say three feet long, and ten inches deep, and nail together to
+form a square frame. Then place this frame upon a bed of rich soil,
+prepared for the purpose in some sheltered, warm spot. The bed should be
+just wide enough to be enclosed within the frame. Within this enclosure
+sow your seeds, and cover with a glass sash. Seeds can be started in
+March in this frame, and afford plants for setting out in April and May.
+
+A bank of earth, or manure, may be thrown around the outside of the
+frame to keep it snug and warm. After sowing the seed in this frame,
+shade it for four or five days by placing a cloth over the sash, this
+will prevent too much heat and light until the seeds have commenced to
+germinate, after which it can be removed without injury.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+MAKING AND PLANTING FLOWER-BEDS.
+
+
+People of the present day can scarcely be contented with tall, waving
+timothy in the front door-yard, and the rickety board-fence that
+enclosed a scene of almost primitive rusticity--the state of things in
+our "forefathers' days."
+
+In place of the timothy growing to hay in the front yard, we now see
+fine, smoothly-cut lawns of refreshing greenness; and fences of pickets,
+wire, and rustic iron, have supplanted the ancient board fences. In
+place of the tall-growing Sunflower and Hollyhock that sprung up here
+and there at random, we now see beds of choice and beautiful flowers
+artistically arranged and carefully cultivated by loving hands.
+
+All is system now about the door-yard and premises, where once were
+neglect and confusion.
+
+Every home should have one or more beds planted with attractive flowers.
+It would be a difficult matter to give specific instructions as to
+planting these beds, as every one has his own peculiar tastes in such
+matters, which is sometimes governed by surroundings, locality, etc.
+
+There are some general rules however, observed by gardeners in planting
+flower-beds that it would be well to observe.
+
+The following notes on planting flower-beds were handed us some time
+ago. We do not know the name of the writer, but have strong reason to
+believe them to be from the pen of the late James Vick.
+
+"There are a great variety of opinions as regards the most effective way
+of planting flower-beds. Some prefer to mix plants of different colors
+and varieties, others prefer the ribbon-style of planting, now so
+generally in use in Europe. If the promiscuous style is adopted, care
+should be taken to dispose the plants in the beds, so that the tallest
+will be at the back of the bed; if the leader is against a wall or
+background of shrubbery, the others should graduate to the front,
+according to the hight. In open beds, on the lawn, the tallest plants
+should be in the centre, the others grading down to the front, on all
+sides, interspersing the colors so as to form the most effective
+contrast in shades.
+
+"But for grand effect, nothing, in our estimation, can ever be obtained
+in promiscuous planting, to equal that resulting from planting in
+masses, or ribbon lines. In Europe lawns are cut so as to resemble rich,
+green velvet; on these the flower-beds are laid out in every style one
+can conceive of; some are planted in masses of blue, yellow, crimson,
+white, etc., separate beds of each harmoniously blended on the carpeting
+of green.
+
+"Then again, the ribbon-style is used in large beds, in forms so various
+that allusion can here be made to only a few of the most conspicuous. In
+a circular bed, say twenty feet in diameter, the bordering can be made
+of blue Lobelia, attaining a hight of six inches; next plant Mrs.
+Pollock Geranium, or Bijou Zonal Geraniums, growing about nine inches
+high. If you plant Mrs. Pollock, on the next row to it plant Mountain of
+Snow (silvered-leaved geranium), next a circle of Red Achyranthes; there
+are several varieties of this plant. Next Centaurea candidissima (Dusty
+Miller); the centre being a mound of Scarlet Salvias.
+
+"Narrow beds along the margins of walks can be formed of low-growing
+plants, such as the White Lobelia, Gypsophila, or Silvered Alyssum, for
+the front line, followed next by the Tom Thumb Tropæolum; then as a
+centre, or third line, Fuchsia Golden Fleece; as a second margined-line
+on the other side, Silver-leaved Geraniums with scarlet flowers,
+followed by a line of blue Lobelia.
+
+"Shaded stars have a fine effect on a lawn; cut a star and plant it with
+either Verbenas, Petunias, Phlox Drummondii, or Portulaca. The ends of
+the stars should be white, and shaded to the centre."
+
+A whole volume might be written on the subject of gardening, without
+exhausting its variety or interest, but we take it for granted that our
+readers will exercise their own tastes, or call on some competent
+gardener to give advice in the premises.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+WATERING PLANTS.--IS COLD WATER INJURIOUS?
+
+
+Probably the most important matter to be observed in growing
+house-plants is that of watering them. The cultivator should know just
+when to water, and to give it where it will do the most good. Amateur
+florists often exhibit much poor judgment in watering. It is the habit
+of some to keep the soil about their plants constantly soaked with
+water, and they wonder why they are not thrifty or healthy. These
+cultivators do not stop to consider that such treatment is unnatural,
+and will have an effect contrary to what is desired. There are those who
+resort to the opposite extreme, and keep their plants all the time in a
+perishing condition of dryness, which is even worse than if they were
+watered to death. If we will observe how judiciously Nature distributes
+the sunshine and shadow, the periodical rains, and the refreshing dews,
+we will learn an important lesson. A pot, or other receptacle in which
+plants are grown, should be porous; glazed, or painted pots, ought never
+to be used, where plain, unglazed pots can be obtained; all non-porous
+pots of tin and similar material, should be discarded. Plants growing
+in them can never compare in health with those that have the advantage
+of plain porous pots. There should be a hole of sufficient size in the
+bottom of each pot, to allow the water to drain off, and to pass away as
+soon as possible. Placing a few pieces of broken crocks, or charcoal, in
+the bottom of the pots will facilitate a rapid drainage, as good
+drainage is essential to the growth of strong, and healthy plants. When
+plants require water, it will be indicated by a light, dry appearance of
+the top of the soil, and if watered when in this condition, it will do
+the most good. Give water only when in this condition, and then
+copiously, giving them all they will soak up at the time, then withhold
+water until the same indication of their want of it again appears, then
+apply it freely. Unless plants are in a very dry atmosphere, as in a
+warm parlor in winter, they will seldom require watering. In summer they
+should be closely watched, and if exposed to wind and sun, they will
+require daily watering, to keep them in a flourishing state. When plants
+are suffering from drouth, it will be indicated by the drooping of the
+leaves, and they will frequently turn yellow, and drop off prematurely;
+this can be avoided by timely attention each day.
+
+In summer, watering in the cool of the evening will be followed by the
+best results, for it will give the plants time to take up and assimilate
+the moisture necessary to their life, and being completely charged with
+water, they will be prepared for the hot sun and drying winds of the
+following day.
+
+
+IS COLD WATER INJURIOUS TO PLANTS?
+
+Those who study works on horticulture by different writers, will
+discover many opposing views in respect to the modes of caring for, and
+the treatment of plants. The proper temperature for water when applied
+to plants, has been frequently discussed by different writers; some
+contend that cool water, just drawn from a well or cistern, should never
+be showered upon plants, but that it should first be heated to the
+temperature of the room in which the plants are standing. Others, with
+equal zeal, claim that cold water will not injure the plants in the
+least, contending that the water will assume the right temperature
+before injury is done the plant. Now which is right? We have
+experimented in this matter to a considerable extent, in order to
+satisfy ourselves as to which of these two views is correct. In the
+month of December I took from my collection twelve large geraniums and
+placed them by themselves in the conservatory; six of these I watered
+with cold water, drawn from a hydrant pipe at the temperature of 45°,
+and the other six were supplied with water from a barrel standing in the
+conservatory, and was of the same temperature of the house, that is from
+60° to 80°. The plants watered with the cold water gave little if any
+bloom throughout the winter, while the six watered from the barrel grew
+finely, and bloomed profusely.
+
+Always water your plants in winter time with lukewarm water, if you
+would have a profusion of flowers, and thrifty-growing plants. The water
+should be of the same temperature as the room or place where the plants
+are. There is no theory about it, it is a practical fact, all talk to
+the contrary notwithstanding.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+ATMOSPHERE AND TEMPERATURE.--INSECTS.
+
+
+The proper regulation of the atmosphere as to moisture and temperature,
+is one of the most important points to be observed in cultivating plants
+in the parlor, or window-garden. Plants will not flourish, bloom, and be
+healthy, in a dry, dusty atmosphere, even though the best of care
+otherwise may be bestowed upon them; hence it is that those who attempt
+to raise plants in their dwellings meet with so little success. There is
+an immense contrast between the atmosphere of a well regulated
+green-house and that of an ordinary dwelling. In the green-house, the
+atmosphere is moist and well-tempered to the healthful growth of plants;
+while that of the parlor or sitting-room is invariably dry and dusty,
+and plants will not flourish in it as they would in the conservatory. If
+the dwelling be heated by coal, there is more or less gas constantly
+discharged into the air of the room, which is of itself enough to
+destroy vegetation, or make it sickly. Houses heated by steam, are
+better adapted to the cultivation of plants.
+
+All plants will not flourish in the common temperature of a living-room;
+some require a low temperature, and others need a warmer one. The
+following plants require a temperature of from 70° to 80° in the
+day-time, and 55° to 60° at night Begonias, Coleuses, Calceolarias,
+Bouvardias, Ferns (tropical), Hibiscuses, Poinsettias, Tuberoses,
+Heliotropes, Crotons, Hoyas, Cactuses, all kinds, Caladiums, Cannas,
+Palms, Orange and Lemon Trees, Geraniums, etc.
+
+The following will do well in an atmosphere ranging from 50° to 60° by
+day, and 40° to 45° by night: Camellias, Azaleas, Oleanders, Roses,
+Carnations, Callas, Ivies, Abutilons, Jessamines, Holland-bulbs,
+Lily-of-the-Valley, Primroses, Violets, Verbenas, Chrysanthemums, etc.
+Plants will flourish better in the kitchen, where the steam and moisture
+from cooking are constantly arising, and tempering the atmosphere, than
+in a dry, dusty sitting-room; hence it is that we find "Bridget"
+sometimes cultivating a few plants in her kitchen window, that are
+envied by the mistress of the house, because they are so much finer than
+those in her parlor or sitting-room.
+
+If a pan of water is set upon a stove in a room where plants are
+growing, it will help to materially relieve the dryness of the
+atmosphere. But most all kinds of house-plants will do fairly in a
+uniform temperature, from 70° by day to 55° by night. Careful
+observation of the habits and requirements of different kinds of plants,
+as they come under our care, will greatly assist the cultivator, and in
+a short time he will be so conversant with their various habits as to
+know just how to properly treat each and every plant in his collection.
+
+
+INSECTS UPON PLANTS.
+
+The little green insects so frequently seen on house-plants, are called
+aphis (plural aphides), plant-lice, or green-fly. They feed upon the
+tender growth of plants, especially the new leaves, and will rapidly sap
+and destroy the life of any plant if allowed to remain undisturbed. In
+the spring these insects abound in great numbers on the plants in
+green-houses and parlors, or wherever they may be growing, and the
+remedy should be promptly applied. The greatest enemy to the green-fly
+is tobacco smoke, made by burning the stems, the refuse of the
+cigar-maker's shops; allowing the smoke to circulate among the leaves to
+which the insects are attached, will readily exterminate them. Place the
+infested plant under a barrel, an ordinary cracker barrel will do, and
+put under it a pan of burning tobacco, slightly moistened with water.
+Leave the plant in the smoke for fifteen or twenty minutes, after which
+remove it. If one "smoking" fails to destroy the insects, repeat the
+dose three or four times, once each day, until they are completely
+exterminated.
+
+A strong solution, or "tea," made from soaking tobacco stems in water,
+and syringing the same over the plants, will effectually destroy the
+little pests, and not injure the plant in the operation.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+WINTERING PLANTS IN CELLARS.
+
+
+Many plants, such as Agaves (Century Plants), Oleanders, large Cactuses,
+etc., that have grown too large to be accommodated in the sitting-room
+or conservatory; can be successfully wintered in any moderately dry,
+frost-proof cellar. After placing these large plants in the cellar, it
+will not be necessary to give them any water, the object being to keep
+them dormant all winter, which can be done by keeping the soil as dry as
+possible, but not so dry as to allow the plants to shrivel, or become
+withered. Large plants of the kinds mentioned, often form desirable
+ornaments during the summer time, but it is impracticable, in most
+cases, to bring them into the house in winter, but they can be kept for
+years by cellaring through the winter as stated. Large Geraniums, Salvia
+and Heliotrope roots, and even Tea Roses, and Carnations, can be kept
+moderately well in the cellar by trenching them in dry, or moderately
+moist sand. Thus many choice specimens of these plants that we are loth
+to pull up and threw away when winter approaches, can be successfully
+kept over until the next season. It is a needless expense to purchase a
+stock of new plants for the garden every year, when we can winter many
+of the old ones in this simple and inexpensive manner. The leaves of all
+deciduous plants should be removed before they are put away in this
+manner. The foliage should remain on the Oleanders and Carnations.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+THE LAW OF COLOR IN FLOWERS.
+
+
+The public are so often duped by a set of travelling frauds, who make it
+their business to represent themselves as being the sole proprietor or
+agent of some "wonderful" kinds of plants, bulbs, or seeds, which
+possess the virtue of being remarkably distinct from anything ever seen
+or heard of before, that many over-credulous ladies or gentlemen fall
+victims to the unprincipled sharks. Did you ever see any one who could
+sell rose bushes that would certainly bear blue roses, or plants of the
+Verbena that produce yellow blossoms, or Tuberose bulbs bearing scarlet
+flowers? If you have not, you have something to learn, and many have
+paid dearly for experiences of this kind.
+
+There is a natural law of color in flowers, that the varieties of a
+species invariably present a certain range of colors. To attempt to
+introduce a new and distinct color, as for example a blue rose, into a
+family where the colors are always white, red, and yellow, is an
+impossibility, and any one who claims to do this, may be set down as a
+swindler.
+
+Much credit is due Mr. Peter Henderson, an eminent florist and seedsman
+of New York City, for the vigorous methods employed by him in exposing
+frauds of this kind, whenever his attention has been called to them. We
+quote from an article written by Mr. Henderson on this subject, some
+years ago: "It has long been known among the best observers of such
+matters, that in certain families of plants, particular colors prevail,
+and that in no single instance can we ever expect to see blue, yellow,
+and scarlet colors in varieties of the same species. If any one at all
+conversant with plants, will bring any family of them to mind, it will
+at once be seen how undeviating is this law. In the Dahlia we have
+scarlet and yellow, but no approach to the blue, so in the Rose,
+Hollyhock, etc. Again in the Verbena and Salvia, we have scarlet and
+blue, but no yellow. If we reflect, it will be seen that there is
+nothing out of the order of nature in this arrangement; why then should
+we expect nature to step outside of what seems to be her fixed laws, and
+give us a blue rose, etc." A word to the wise, we take it, is sufficient
+in view of the foregoing facts.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+THE RELATION OF PLANTS TO HEALTH.
+
+
+Plants at present are more generally cultivated in-doors than formerly,
+and they may be seen in almost every home. The cultivation of plants in
+dwellings is decidedly a modern custom--at least to the extent to which
+it is now practised. One who now contemplates building a dwelling house,
+plans to have included with the other conveniences of a first-class
+home, a suitable window for house plants. As the cultivation of plants
+in dwelling houses increases, the question is raised by some: "Are not
+plants injurious to health, if growing in the apartments in which we
+live and sleep?" We know of persons who would not sleep in a room in
+which a number of plants were growing, giving as the reason that the
+amount of carbonic acid gas given off by the plants, is detrimental to
+health. Now this view is either true or it is not true. We have made a
+particular study of this matter, and speak from experience. Over ten
+years of my life had been spent in the green-house, among all kinds of
+plants; I have frequently slept all night among them, and I have never
+observed it to be in any way detrimental to my health, but, on the
+contrary, I have never felt better than when among plants. Gardeners, as
+a class, those who have spent their lives among plants, show, so far as
+we have observed, a longevity equal to, if not exceeding that of any
+other class who are engaged in any of the vocations usually regarded as
+healthy. We must admit, however, that we have never known of a case of
+chronic rheumatism to be benefited in the least by working in
+hot-houses, on account of the perpetual dampness of the air. On the
+other hand, we know of a number of persons afflicted with various other
+diseases, who have been noticeably benefited by working among plants:
+perhaps it was owing to the health-giving bodily exercise required by
+the work, rather than the supposed health-giving effects of the plants
+themselves; we think the result was due to both. An eminent physician
+cites a case in which his sister, aged fifty years, was afflicted with
+tubercular consumption, her death, as the natural result of such a
+terrible disease being expected at any time, but being an ardent lover
+of plants and flowers, she was daily accustomed to move among her
+plants, of which she possessed a large number, in her sleeping room as
+well as many others in beds outside. Her friends reproved her for
+sleeping in the same room with her plants; but the years came and went,
+and she was still found moving among her flowers in her eightieth year,
+surviving those, who many years before predicted her immediate demise,
+as the result of her imprudence. Who will say but what the exhalation
+from her numerous plants increasing the humidity of the atmosphere in
+which she lived, prolonged her life? The above is but one of many cases,
+in which tubercular consumption has been arrested and sometimes wholly
+cured by the sanitary effects produced by working among plants for a
+considerable time. We know of cases in which druggists, ministers, and
+students from school, compelled to relinquish their chosen vocations on
+account of failing health, have resorted to the nursery or hot-house. In
+almost every case restoration to vigorous health was the result.
+
+We contend, therefore, that this old superstition that house plants are
+injurious to health, is nothing but a myth. The amount of carbonic acid
+gas at night discharged from two dozen large plants, will not equal that
+exhaled by one infant sleeper, as has been demonstrated by scientific
+men. Because a few old cronies stick to the absurdity that "plants are
+awful sickenin' things," it is no reason why sensible people should be
+at all alarmed by it.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+LAYERING.
+
+
+Layering is a simple method by which plants may be multiplied. Moss
+Roses, nearly all kinds of hardy vines, like the Wistaria, Clematis,
+Honeysuckle, Ivy, and many others, are easily multiplied in this manner,
+together with most of our hardy shrubs. Many of our tenderer plants like
+Chrysanthemums, Verbenas, Heliotropes, etc., layer finely, by first
+bending the branches down to the ground, and partially covering them
+with sand or soil. Pots may be plunged in the ground so that the limbs
+will not require to be bent much in layering them. In layering
+hard-wooded plants like the Rose or Clematis, it is customary to cut a
+slight gash on the underside of each limb to be laid down, just cutting
+inside of the bark; this will arrest the flow of sap, and new roots will
+form at this point. Where vines are layered, such as the Grape, a simple
+twisting of the vine until the bark is cracked, will answer in place of
+cutting, and we believe it is just as well. It should be understood,
+however, that in layering, the entire shoot is not to be covered; a good
+portion of the tip of the shoot should be in sight, and only the middle
+of the branch be under ground, and securely fastened down by means of a
+peg. All layering should be done while the wood is young; just ripe
+enough to bend without snapping off, and all hardy vines and shrubs are
+in condition to layer from the first to the middle of June. For tender
+plants any month during the summer will answer for the operation. Most
+tender plants will root in a month or six weeks. Examine the layers in
+the fall, and if rooted, remove them; if not, they should remain
+undisturbed for another season.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+PROPAGATION OF PLANTS FROM CUTTINGS.
+
+
+In the propagation of plants from cuttings or otherwise, the amateur,
+with limited facilities, of course cannot compete with the trained and
+experienced propagator, who makes the rearing of plants his business,
+devoting his whole attention to that special branch. Many men have
+devoted the greater part of a lifetime to experiment and study, as to
+the best and most practicable methods for the successful propagation of
+plants. There are, however, common and ordinary methods for propagating
+plants from cuttings, that the most inexperienced can practice with a
+measure of success. All florists root their cuttings in sand, and that
+obtained from the beach of some fresh water lake is the best for the
+purpose, being free from gravel and clay, and will not hold water long.
+If lake sand cannot be easily obtained, common building sand will answer
+by thoroughly washing it with several waters to free it from clay, etc.
+I can recommend to the reader no more simple and practical method of
+propagating plants on a small scale, than the following, from the pen of
+an experienced florist, which expresses my own views exactly:
+
+     "Take a pan, or dish, at least three inches deep--the circumference
+     of which may be as large as you wish, fill to within one half inch
+     of the top with sand. The cuttings are to be inserted in the sand,
+     which is made very wet, of the consistency of mud. The pan should
+     then be placed on the window case, where it will receive the full
+     light of the sun, which will not injure the cuttings in the least,
+     providing the sand is kept constantly wet, being careful to never
+     allow it to become dry for a moment, otherwise the plants will be
+     lost.
+
+     "'Is there no drainage from the pan necessary?' none, the
+     atmosphere will evaporate the water fast enough to prevent any
+     stagnation during the brief time required for the cuttings to take
+     root."
+
+Success in propagating in this way, depends altogether upon keeping the
+sand wet like mud until the cuttings in it are "struck" or rooted, and
+this may be easily determined--with the hand gently try to lift the
+cutting, you will know if it is rooted by the hold maintained on the
+sand, if not, it will come out. A little experience in feeling with the
+hand in this way, will enable you to readily determine whether the
+cutting is rooted or not.
+
+I have no doubt that the following table, which I have carefully
+prepared from my own extensive experience in regard to length of time
+required by different plants to take root from cuttings, will be of
+interest to all who desire to propagate plants in this manner. I am
+supposing now, in the following table, that all the conditions and
+facilities are such as are generally found in a first-class propagating
+house, with bottom heat, etc.:
+
+                                             _Days._
+  Ageratums                                   6 to 8
+  Amaranthus                                  6 "  8
+  Alyssum                                    10 " 12
+  Abutilon                                   12 " 15
+  Azalea                                     60 " 90
+  Begonias                                   12 " 15
+  Bouvardias                                 20 " 30
+  Clematis                                   30 " 40
+  Carnations                                 20 " 30
+  Cuphea (cigar plant)                        6 "  8
+  Chrysanthemums                             12 " 15
+  Centaurea                                  30 " 40
+  Coleus (all kinds)                          6 "  8
+  Dahlias                                    15 " 20
+  Eupatoriums                                15 " 20
+  Echeverias                                 30 " 40
+  Geraniums                                  12 " 15
+  Hibiscus                                   20 " 30
+  Heliotrope                                 12 " 15
+  Lobelia                                    12 " 15
+  Lantanas                                   12 " 15
+  Lavender                                   20 " 30
+  Mignonette                                 15 " 20
+  Myosotis                                   12 " 20
+  Nasturtium                                 10 " 12
+  Primroses                                  30 " 40
+  Pyrethrums                                 15 " 20
+  Poinsettia                                 30 " 40
+  Petunias                                   20 " 30
+  Roses                                      30 " 40
+  Oleander                                   30 " 40
+  Verbenas                                    6 "  8
+  Vinca                                      12 " 15
+
+All hardy shrubs, taken when the wood is green and young, may be
+propagated in like manner. The summer is the time to take off the wood
+for such cuttings.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+GRAFTING.
+
+
+Grafting is a simple art, that both old and young should become
+acquainted with and be able to perform. In my garden there had stood,
+for a number of years, away in a corner by itself, a wild apple tree,
+which had sprung up from the seed; it always bore fruit, but of a
+worthless character, so sour and insipid that even the swine refused to
+devour it when it was thrown to them. I became tired of seeing this
+tree, and resolved to change its nature. I went to work, being a
+nurseryman, and procured cions of ten or a dozen different sorts of
+apple trees, and took the first favorable opportunity in the spring to
+graft my old and useless apple tree. When I had finished grafting, I
+found that I had inserted here and there on the different branches,
+fifty cions, all of which, with the exception of three, lived, grew,
+bore fruit, each "after its own kind," Baldwins, Greenings,
+Gravensteins, Spitzenbergs, etc., and it is now the most desirable tree
+in the garden; I completely transformed the nature of the tree. Any one
+who understands grafting can do the same thing. Apple, Pear, Plum, and
+Cherry trees can be successfully top-grafted in the manner spoken of
+above, and the month of April is the best time to perform the operation.
+The outfit necessary to perform the operation of grafting is a small
+hand-saw, a hatchet, a wedge, grafting-knife, and wax to cover the
+wound.
+
+If the tree be a large one, and you wish to change the sort entirely,
+begin by sawing off all those limbs that, being removed, will leave
+enough to graft upon, and not spoil the symmetry of the tree. With the
+hand-saw saw off the limbs to be grafted about midway, then with the
+hatchet or wedge, cleave an opening in the remaining end of the limb,
+and entirely across, and deep enough to receive the cion; insert an iron
+in the cut to hold it open until the cion is placed, then withdraw the
+iron, and the graft will be held fast.
+
+The cions to be inserted should be cut before ascending the tree to
+graft, and, together with the wax, can be carried in a small basket for
+the purpose. If the diameter of the limb to be grafted is more than an
+inch, it is best to insert two grafts, placed so that each cion will
+stand near the edge of the cut, in juxtaposition with the bark of the
+limb. Immediately after setting the graft, plaster the cut over with a
+heavy coat of wax, being careful to leave no crack or crevice open
+through which it would be possible for air or water to enter. Each cion,
+in wedge-grafting, is cut in the shape of a wedge; the whole cion need
+not be over three to four inches in length. The following is a good
+receipe for making grafting-wax: One and a half pound of bees-wax, six
+pounds of resin, and one and a half pound rough beef tallow; put all
+into a pot, and boil one half hour, keeping it stirred; pour it out into
+a tub of cold water, and when it is sufficiently stiff it should be
+gathered into balls. When wanted for use the balls should be laid in
+warm water, which will readily soften the wax; work the wax with the
+hands thoroughly before using. Wedge-grafting is by no means the only
+way to graft, although it is about the only method of grafting large
+trees. There are from ten to twenty other modes of grafting, the
+difference being in the manner of cutting the cion, and in fitting it to
+the stock. To go into detail in regard to them would occupy too much
+space in these limited pages. Any one, with a little practice, can learn
+to cut a cion, and to graft with success.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+HANGING BASKETS.--WARDIAN CASES AND JARDINIERES.
+
+
+Hanging Baskets for plants are made of different materials, and in a
+great variety of forms. Some are made of wire, others of clay, and
+ornamented with fancy mouldings, etc. Very pretty baskets in rustic
+style are made by covering the outside of a wooden bowl with fantastic
+knots and roots; this makes a pleasing basket, but we know of none so
+desirable as the old style semi-globular wire basket, when properly
+filled.
+
+
+DIRECTIONS FOR FILLING HANGING BASKETS.
+
+To fill a wire basket, first obtain some of the green moss to be found
+on the lower portion of the trunks of trees in almost any shady piece of
+woods. This is to be used as a lining to the basket, turning the green
+side out, and entirely covering the inside of the wire form with the
+moss. Before filling the basket with soil, place a handful of charcoal
+or gravel in the bottom, which will hold the moisture. Fill the basket
+with rich, loose loam, such as will not harden by frequent waterings.
+
+Plants that are peculiarly suitable for hanging baskets are quite
+numerous, and from them a selection may be made that will please the
+most exacting taste.
+
+It is a mistake to crowd too many plants into a basket, if they grow
+they will soon become root-bound, stunted, and look sickly. If the
+hanging basket be of the ordinary size, one large and choice plant
+placed in the centre with a few graceful vines to droop over the edges,
+will have a better effect when established and growing, than if it were
+crowded with plants at the time of filling. Hanging baskets being
+constantly suspended, they are exposed to draughts of air from all
+sides, and the soil is soon dried out, hence careful watching is
+necessary in order to prevent the contents from becoming too dry. If the
+moss appears to be dry, take the basket down and dip it once or twice in
+a pail of water, this is better than sprinkling from a watering-pot. In
+filling hanging baskets, or vases of any kind, we invariably cover the
+surface of the soil with the same green moss used for lining, which,
+while it adds materially to the pleasing appearance of the whole, at the
+same time prevents the soil from drying out or becoming baked on the
+surface.
+
+The following is a list of choice plants suitable for hanging-baskets.
+Those marked thus (+) are fine for the centre, those marked thus (*)
+have handsome foliage, and this mark (**) indicates that the plants have
+flowers in addition to handsome foliage:
+
+  **Begonia glaucophylla scandens.
+   +Oxalis.
+  **Begonia Rex, very fine.
+   *Fittonia
+   +Cuphea platycentra (Cigar Plant).
+   +Pandanus (Screw Pine).
+   +Dracæna (Young's).
+   +Neirembergia.
+   +Centaurea gymnocarpa.
+  **Geraniums, Mrs. Pollock and Happy Thought.
+   *Tradescantia discolor.
+   *Peperomias.
+  **Gloxinias.
+   *Fancy Ferns.
+   +Ageratum (John Douglass, blue).
+   +Achyranthes.
+  **Variegated Hydrangea.
+   *Ficus Parcelli.
+  **Gesnerias.
+   *Variegated Grasses, etc., etc.
+
+  TRAILING PLANTS.
+
+  **Fuchsia, microphylla.
+    Sedum (Stone Crop).
+  **Ivy-leaved Geraniums.
+    German Ivy.
+    Indian Strawberry Vine.
+    Kenilworth Ivy.
+    Lycopodium.
+    Moneywort.
+  **Trailing Blue Lobelia.
+   *Cissus discolor.
+  **Lysimachia (Moneywort).
+  **Tropæolums.
+  **Torrenia Asiatica.
+  **Mesembryanthemums (Ice Plant).
+  **Cobæa scandens.
+  **Pilogyne suavis.
+   +Lygodium scandens (Climbing Fern).
+
+
+WARDIAN CASES--JARDINIERES, ETC.
+
+A Wardian Case consists of a base, which is generally an oblong box,
+covered with a square glass frame, under which certain plants can be
+successfully grown. This is now considered by many to be a desirable
+ornament in the window-garden during the winter months. When neatly and
+artistically filled with suitable plants, a Wardian Case becomes a thing
+of beauty. These cases can be easily and cheaply made by any one
+possessed of ordinary mechanical skill. The base or box should be oblong
+in shape, at least eight inches deep, and lined inside with zinc or
+tin-plate, securely soldered to prevent the water and soil from staining
+the wood. A case made in this manner will endure a number of years
+without decaying. Over the case a square glass frame should be made to
+fit snugly; it should be from eighteen inches to two feet high, so as to
+allow the plants that are to grow under it plenty of room. When the case
+and frame are finished, the whole should be mounted upon a stand, or
+legs can be made with the case, under which are casters, by which to
+move it about easily. Before planting, make a small funnel hole through
+the bottom of the box, to allow the surplus water to escape rapidly, and
+before putting in the soil, cover the bottom of the box two inches deep
+with broken crocks or charcoal, or even gravel, to facilitate a rapid
+drainage, a matter absolutely essential to the healthy growth of the
+plants. Fill the box within an inch of the top with fine, rich, peaty
+loam, and all will be ready to receive the plants. Those suitable for
+growing in a case of this kind, should be such as will live and thrive
+in a moist, still atmosphere, and are of slow growth; all rampant,
+rank-growers must be discarded as being wholly unsuitable, as they would
+soon become of such proportions that they could not be confined in so
+limited a space. The following plants are eminently suited for Wardian
+Cases, Jardinieres, etc.; Fittonias (Gymnostachyum), Fancy Caladiums,
+Tradescantias, Cissus discolor, Gesnerias, some varieties of Crotons,
+Dwarf-growing Begonias, Fancy Ferns, Lycopods, etc., etc., are very
+suitable for this purpose. In arranging the plants in the case,
+particular care should be taken to have them so placed that the
+tallest-growing ones will be in the centre, and grading downward,
+according to size, the Lycopods being on the bottom. The whole surface
+of the soil may be covered with the trailing Lycopodium; by placing
+small pieces here and there, it will soon spread over the entire
+surface, making a beautiful ground work of purplish-green. Small,
+highly-colored sea-shells, and beautifully-colored pebbles, are
+scattered about among the plants, to enhance the beauty of the whole.
+After the case has been filled the soil should be thoroughly soaked with
+lukewarm water. Remove the case to a shady place for three or four days,
+to allow the plants to recuperate, after which it can be placed in the
+full light with safety. The lid or top should be lifted whenever there
+is excessive moisture on the inside, which will be indicated by the
+moisture trickling down on the inside of the glass. As a rule the plants
+should have fresh air, by lifting the lid for a few minutes each day,
+but beware of all cold draughts, or too much exposure to chilly
+atmospheres. Ordinarily, once a month is often enough to water, this
+must be governed by the circumstances, but they should never be allowed
+to become dry, remembering that as warmth, moisture, and a still
+atmosphere are secured, success will be certain.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+AQUATICS--WATER LILIES.
+
+
+The native Water Lilies that abound in many of our lakes, ponds, and
+rivers, are more or less familiar to all. They grow up year after year
+through the placid waters, unfolding their blossoms of spotless purity
+to the silent stars, and after a short while, disappear, to return at
+another favorable season. The American Water Lily, _Nymphæa odorata_,
+has flowers of a yellowish-white, and an odor that is peculiar and
+pleasant. The size of the flowers averages three to four inches across.
+This is by no means the only aquatic lily, for we have in cultivation
+quite a number of other choice and striking species quite different in
+leaf and flower from _N. odorata_. Among the most noticeable of these
+is, _N. rubra_, a native of India, which has flowers of a rosy-red,
+measuring from eight to ten inches in diameter, with scarlet stamens;
+the large leaves of this Water Lily turn to a gorgeous crimson color in
+the fall. There are also _N. Devonensis_, bearing flowers of a brilliant
+red, which often measure from twelve to fourteen inches across, are
+star-shaped, and very beautiful. _N. cærulea_, a native of Egypt, has
+light blue flowers, and light green leaves; the flowers are very
+fragrant. _N. flava_ has yellowish flowers, sometimes beautifully
+variegated with brown. There is quite a number of other interesting
+species, but those already mentioned are the best. The cultivation of
+Water Lilies is very simple, they can be grown with success in tubs or
+tanks, or in little artificial ponds, constructed to accommodate them. A
+hogshead sunk in the ground in the open air, in some sunny location,
+will answer to grow them in. Fill a hogshead half full of the compost
+recommended for aquatics, then set the plants in the compost, press
+down firmly, and fill the cask with pure water. If possible connect a
+flow and waste pipe with the barrel, to keep the water fresh, as this is
+highly essential in growing these plants in this manner.
+
+A Mr. Sturtevant, we believe, now of Burlington Co., N. J., is an
+enthusiast on the cultivation of Water Lilies, and no doubt an excellent
+authority, He has written some valuable hints on the culture of
+aquatics, from which we are tempted to quote. He says, "I will add here
+a few words on the possibilities of aquatic gardening. One argument in
+favor of cultivating tropical lilies in the open air is, that larger
+leaves and flowers are obtained, and in case of the colored kinds,
+greater depth of color than when under glass." And again, "Let us
+suppose that you wish to have an aquatic garden, fifty, sixty, or a
+hundred feet in diameter. We will not build it in the stiff form of a
+circle or oval. There is a small bay, across which we will throw a
+rustic bridge to a peninsula: somewhere on the margin we will build a
+rustic summer-house."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"Now let us suppose that all has been planted, and come to mid-summer
+perfection. Some morning, before the night-blooming lilies (there are
+varieties that bloom only in the night), have taken their mid-day sleep,
+let us ascend the tower, and take a view of the picture." He graphically
+describes the beauty of this miniature Eden, with all its rare and
+beautiful tropical plants, which certainly must be enchanting for any
+who love the beautiful. It is surprising that many people of ample
+means, and with good facilities for growing aquatics, and who have a
+taste for flowers, do not take more interest in domesticating these
+plants. Any one who keeps a gardener can have a very fine show of these
+beautiful flowers, and a comparatively small outlay will bring good
+results in a short time. Let those who can, try it.
+
+
+SOIL FOR GROWING AQUATIC PLANTS.
+
+The best soil for growing aquatics, is that obtained from the bed of a
+pond, or a slow, swampy stream, but when this is not readily obtainable,
+a mixture of equal parts of good, rich garden loam and stable manure
+will be almost as good. Some use a mixture of muck and bog peat, from
+which they claim very satisfactory results in growing aquatics; either
+we think can be used with good success.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+HARDY CLIMBING VINES.--IVIES.
+
+
+Hardy Climbing Vines seem to be in large demand in different sections of
+the country, either for training upon trellises as single specimens, or
+for training upon the side of the building, piazza, portico, or to
+screen unsightly places, etc. We select from a large number of hardy
+climbing vines the following sorts, which we think are the most
+desirable:
+
+  Wistaria, Chinese (blue and white).
+  Honeysuckles, Belgian.
+  Clematis Jackman's (purple).
+  Clematis Henry's (pure white).
+  Clematis, _viticella rubra grandiflora_ (red).
+  Virginia Creeper, _Ampelopsis quinquefolia_ (strong grower).
+  Japan Creeper, _Ampelopsis tricuspidata_, or _Veitchii_, of most catalogues.
+  Bignonia, Trumpet-Flower.
+  Rose, Baltimore Belle (white).
+  Rose, Queen of the Prairies (pink).
+
+All of the above named vines are strong, vigorous growers, perfectly
+hardy, and with the exception of the two Creepers, are handsome
+bloomers.
+
+
+IVIES--GROWING AND TRAINING.
+
+  "A dainty plant is the Ivy green,
+  That creepeth o'er ruins old."--Boz.
+
+The Ivy is one of the oldest and most venerable of all climbing shrubs,
+and is preëminently the poet's vine. In some of the older countries,
+especially in England, where the climate is particularly favorable to
+its growth, the Ivy is very attractive, and is said to reach the
+greatest perfection there. Travellers who have journeyed through that
+country, describe the old Ivy as clinging closely to, and completely
+covering the walls of ancient castles, and churches, and often it runs
+rampant over the fields, mounting stone walls, clinging to trees, etc.
+The Ivy in our climate is entirely hardy, enduring the severest winters
+without any protection. If the vine is allowed to grow over the walls of
+a dwelling, either on the inside, in a living-room, or on the outer
+walls of the building, is not only beautiful as an ornament of the home,
+but beneficial; in a sanitary point of view it is regarded as useful.
+Some plants of Ivy growing in the living and sleeping rooms, will do
+more to keep the atmosphere of the apartments pure and wholesome, than
+anything we can possibly imagine, and I recommend their more extensive
+cultivation in malarial localities. The Ivy may be easily cultivated
+from slips or layers. In soil, sand, or even in pure water, cuttings
+will root, and they will take up with almost any kind of soil, but that
+which can be easily kept loose, is preferable. The Ivy is partial to
+shade, and if it never saw the sun it would make no difference, as it
+would grow and flourish just the same. There is no sight more attractive
+in a window-garden than a fine Ivy vine trained up the casement, over
+the wall and ceiling; its dark, rich, glossy leaves, and thrifty look,
+make it an object to be admired. If grown in pots in the house, the soil
+will soon become exhausted, if the plant is growing rapidly, and it
+should be changed or enriched with decayed manure at least once each
+year, care being taken not to disturb the roots to a great extent. It is
+a mistake to allow Ivies too much pot-room, they will do better if the
+roots are considerably confined. Soap-suds or liquid manure if applied
+once a mouth when the plants are growing, will promote a luxuriant
+growth. When dust accumulates on the leaves, as it will, if grown
+in-doors, wash it off with a damp cloth or sponge; if this is long
+neglected, you need not be surprised if you soon discover the leaves to
+be covered with red-spider or scale-lice. Cold water is the best wash,
+when washing be sure and treat the underside of the leaves as well as
+the upper surface. I would recommend the "English Ivy" as being the best
+sort for general cultivation.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+ANNUAL FLOWERING PLANTS.--PANSY CULTURE.
+
+
+Annuals flower the same season the seeds are sown, perfect their seeds,
+and then die. "There is," says James Vick, "No forgotten spot in the
+garden, none which early flowering bulbs or other spring flowers have
+left unoccupied, that need remain bare during the summer. No bed but
+what can be made brilliant with these favorites, for there is no
+situation or soil in which some of these favorites will not flourish.
+Some delight in shade, others in sunshine; some are pleased with a cool,
+clay bed, while others are never so comfortable as in a sandy soil, or
+burning sun. The seed, too, is so cheap as to be within the reach of
+all, while a good collection of bedding plants would not come within the
+resources of many, and yet very few beds filled with expensive bedding
+plants look as well as a good bed of our best annuals, like Phlox,
+Petunia, or Portulaca, and for a vase or basket many of our annuals are
+unsurpassed. To annuals, also, we are indebted mainly for our brightest
+and best flowers in the late summer and autumn months.
+
+"Without the Phlox and Petunia, and Portulaca and Aster, and Stock, our
+autumn gardens would be poor indeed, and how we would miss the sweet
+fragrance of the Alyssum, Mignonette, and Sweet Pea, if any ill-luck
+should befall them, or deprive us of these sweet favorites!" Annuals are
+divided into three classes, hardy, half-hardy, and tender. The hardy
+annuals are those that, like the Larkspur, Candytuft, etc., may be sown
+in the autumn, or very early in the spring in the open ground. The
+half-hardy annuals should not be sown in the open ground until all
+danger of frost is over. The Balsams and Marigolds belong to this class.
+The tender annuals generally require starting in a green-house, or
+hot-bed, to bring them to perfection, and should not be set in the open
+ground until the weather is fine and warm, some time in June. From a
+perplexing number to be found in plant catalogues, we select the
+following twelve sorts of annuals as being the most desirable for the
+garden; they are a galaxy of gems, indeed:
+
+  Asters,
+  Balsams,
+  Phlox Drummondii,
+  Double Petunias,
+  Pansies,
+  Double Sweet Alyssum,
+  Double White Pyrethrum,
+  Dwarf Ageratum,
+  Verbenas,
+  Salvias,
+  Double Stocks,
+  Celosias (Coxcomb).
+
+Sow the seed in the open ground the latter part of May, and the first of
+July most of the sorts will be in bloom, and they will continue to
+bloom until arrested by frosts.
+
+
+PANSY CULTURE.
+
+Pansies are old and popular favorites, they embrace varieties with
+variously-colored flowers, from almost jet black, to pure white and
+yellow. They are easily grown from seed. The general custom is to sow
+Pansy seed in the fall, but we are in favor of spring sowing. We have
+tried sowing seed at both seasons, and find that plants grown from
+spring-sown seed bloom more freely throughout the hot months of summer,
+while plants raised by fall sowing become exhausted, and cease flowering
+much sooner. Seed sown in March, in light, rich soil, will make fine
+blooming plants the same season. Pansies are hardy, if they have good
+protection with a litter of leaves or straw, or any light covering,
+which should be removed very early in the spring, or as soon as danger
+of heavy frosts is over. Plants remaining in ground through the winter,
+if proper care is given them, will bloom very early in the spring, as
+soon as the frost is out of the ground. We have even seen the frail
+blossoms peeping up through the snow, but the plants become exhausted
+and cease flowering before mid-summer. It is possible to have them bloom
+throughout the entire winter by taking up old plants from the open
+ground in October, and carefully planting them in a tight, cold frame in
+a sheltered location, covering the frame with glazed sash. This is often
+done by florists whose trade demands the flowers at that season of the
+year, and especially early in spring. Treated thus, they flower
+abundantly. The same can be done with Violets. Pansies require a partial
+shade and a good, rich, loamy soil, and an occasional watering through
+the dry season will help them.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+FALL OR HOLLAND BULBS.
+
+
+That class of bulbs known as Fall, or Holland Bulbs, includes Hyacinths,
+Crocuses, Jonquils, Tulips, Narcissuses, Snow-drops, and several less
+known kinds. These bulbs are grown in Holland in immense quantities, the
+soil and climate of that country being peculiarly favorable to them, and
+they are annually imported into this country in great numbers. The fall
+is the time to set them out; any time from the first of October, to the
+middle of December. Tulips, Jonquils, Narcissuses, and Hyacinths, should
+be planted four inches deep, and eight inches apart each way; the
+Snow-drops and Crocuses two inches deep, and six inches apart.
+
+All of the above named bulbs are entirely hardy, and will stand in the
+ground without any surface protection through the severest winters. Some
+go to the trouble of covering the surface with leaves or other litter
+for protection, but this is entirely unnecessary. A very pretty effect
+may be had, where one has a large number of bulbs, by selecting the
+different colors and planting each color in a row by itself, so that
+when they blossom, it will be in ribbon-lines of red, white, blue, or
+yellow, as the case may be. Or, if one has a large number of beds of
+different shapes, cut so as to form a design of some kind, each section
+may be planted with a different color (Hyacinths are the best for this
+work), and when all come into bloom in April, the effect will be most
+charming. We tried this "massing" of the differently colored bulbs one
+year, in a "design" of one hundred different sections of all conceivable
+shapes. Planting the bulbs so that, when in blossom, the whole would
+present a harmonious effect. It would be hard to conceive of a more
+attractive sight than that presented by all those bulbs in full bloom
+in early April, when every thing else looked barren and cheerless. They
+were admired by every one who saw them. Bulbs of this character bloom
+and pass away in season to allow room for other plants to be set out.
+These may be set between the rows of bulbs, and not disturb them in the
+least. Any of the above named bulbs are especially desirable for house
+culture in winter. Make an oblong box, say four feet in length, fifteen
+inches wide, and twelve deep, fill this with fine, rich loam, then plant
+a row of Hyacinths in the centre, and on each side of this plant a row
+of either Snow-drops or Crocuses, water thoroughly, and set away in a
+dark, cool place. In three weeks remove the box into the full light, and
+water freely, they will grow and bloom throughout the winter. If the box
+can be set near a front window, it will make a pretty display while the
+bulbs are in bloom.
+
+These bulbs can be started in pots, or glasses filled with water, and
+treated in the same manner as stated above. Place a single bulb of
+Hyacinth in each pot or glass. Four-inch pots filled nearly to the top
+with soil, and the bulbs set in and pressed down, so that nothing but
+the crown is above ground, are all that is necessary. The same bulbs can
+be used a number of years, but they are not so good as fresh ones, which
+should be obtained each year if possible. After the bulbs are through
+blooming, they may be left in the soil in which they grew through the
+winter, and removed to a dry place to rest, in preparation for starting
+them another fall. If fresh bulbs are desired for this purpose, the old
+ones may be planted out in the open ground, where they will again renew
+their strength, and bloom annually for a number of years. They are
+multiplied from the seed and from offshoots.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+TROPICAL BULBS.--TUBEROSES.
+
+
+Gladioluses, Tuberoses, Cannas, and Caladiums, come under this head, and
+are the best known of this class of bulbs. They are not hardy, and the
+slightest frost will injure them more or less. It is customary to allow
+tender bulbs of this kind to rest during the winter, the same as one
+would an onion. They can be safely kept through the winter under the
+staging of the green-house, in a dry, frost-proof cellar, where there is
+plenty of light, or in any other place where potatoes can be safely
+stored. Tropical bulbs of all kinds are much benefited by planting them
+in good, light, loamy soil, well enriched with well-rotted stable
+manure. They may be planted out in the open ground as soon as it can be
+worked in the spring, and all danger from heavy frosts is over. Any of
+the above named bulbs of ordinary size, should be planted at least from
+three to four inches deep, and from six to eight inches deep when the
+bulbs are of extra size. I am in favor of planting these bulbs in the
+open ground much earlier than most gardeners are in the habit of doing.
+Experience has shown me that the earlier in spring those summer bulbs
+are set out in the open ground, the better. Just as soon as the ground
+is in good condition to work, spade it up deeply, and plant the bulbs;
+the roots will soon begin to develop in the cool ground, before the tops
+start to grow, which is the true principle in growing all plants. They
+will thus receive a fine start before hot weather sets in. We have had
+Tuberoses and Gladioluses to bloom much earlier than usual, and much
+more continuously throughout the summer and fall, as the result of
+planting them as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring. If a
+continuation of bloom is desired, the bulbs should be planted at
+successive intervals of not less then three weeks; this will give a
+sucession of bloom throughout the entire season. In the fall remove the
+bulbs from the ground as soon as the tops have been touched by frost,
+cutting the stalk off to within a couple of inches of the base, and
+setting the bulbs away to rest for the winter.
+
+
+TUBEROSES.
+
+No collection of garden flowers is complete without the Tuberose. For
+the spotless purity of its flowers, and for incomparable fragrance, it
+has no superior. It is very easy to grow them successfully. Bulbs
+intended for fall blooming, should be planted in the open ground from
+the first to the middle of May; plant them about two inches deep. They
+will do well in any good, rich garden soil, if the soil is occasionally
+moved around them with the rake or hoe, after they are up and growing.
+Such treatment will cause the bulbs to grow rapidly, and the flower
+trusses, when they come into bloom, will consequently be much larger and
+finer. As the Tuberose is not hardy in our Northern climates, the bulbs
+should be dug up in the fall, the tops or stalks removed to within two
+or three inches of the bulbs, which should then be laid away in some
+dry, warm place, a dry and frost-proof cellar will do, or better yet,
+store them if possible, under the staging of a green-house. In the
+spring, before planting, remove all the young offsets from around the
+parent bulb; there are usually a number of young shoots clinging to it,
+and as the old bulb blooms but once, and only once, it is henceforth
+good for nothing, save for the production of more bulbs, if desired.
+
+The young offshoots of the first season's growth will not become
+blooming bulbs until the third year, but if you have quite a number of
+young bulbs, say twenty-five or fifty, there will naturally be a number
+that will bloom in rotation, from year to year, and give some bloom
+each season. Some enterprising florists have Tuberoses nearly the whole
+year round. In order to do this, the bulbs must be "started" in pots;
+the bulbs are potted in the usual manner, so that the top, or crown of
+the bulb, when potted, will just show above the soil, and they should be
+kept rather dry until they show signs of growing, when they can be
+watered freely and set in a warm place. Of course bulbs intended for
+winter blooming must rest, or be kept from growing during the summer,
+and bulbs to be in bloom in April or May, must be started in January or
+February in pots. Tuberoses are rapidly productive; ten old bulbs having
+been known to produce one hundred young offshoots in one season. There
+are many "fine points" in growing Tuberoses, but the instruction here
+given will enable any one to grow them successfully.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+ROSES--CULTIVATION AND PROPAGATING.
+
+
+The Rose is preëminently the Queen of Flowers. It has no rival in the
+floral kingdom, and will always stand at the head in the catalogue of
+Flora's choicest gems. To it alone belongs that subtle perfume that
+captivates the sense of smell, and that beauty of form and color so
+pleasing to the eye. Add to all this, it is one of the easiest plants to
+cultivate, as it will grow and flower in almost any soil or climate,
+requiring but little care and attention as compared with many other
+favorites of the garden. There has been great improvement made in Roses
+in the last twenty years by skillful cultivators in this country and in
+Europe, and from a few common sorts formerly grown, many hundred choice
+and desirable varieties have been produced, and to-day the choice
+cultivated varieties are very numerous. These differ in respect to
+hardiness, habit of growth, and peculiar characteristics of blooming,
+and for these reasons cultivators have grouped them into several
+distinct classes, each class differing in certain characteristics from
+the others.
+
+
+TEA ROSES.
+
+The Roses best adapted for in-door culture belong to the class known as
+Tea Roses; these are tender, of a bushy growth, and if properly treated,
+will bloom the year round; the flowers have a strong tea-scent.
+
+Tea Roses can be cultivated out-of-doors with success, but they must be
+taken up in the fall and removed in-doors. We know it is the custom of
+some gardeners to lay the bushes down in the fall, and cover them with
+earth and leaves; while in some cases this may preserve them, it cannot
+be depended on as a rule. To keep up a steady bloom, pinch off all
+flowers as soon as they begin to fade. It is best to not let the buds
+open fully while on the bush, but they should be cut in the bud, and
+placed in a vase of water, where they will expand and keep for a long
+while. All dead leaves and flower stems should be carefully removed, and
+the surface of the soil in the pots should be stirred up occasionally
+with a stick, this will keep the plants in a growing condition, and if
+they can be kept growing, they will bloom continuously.
+
+The following varieties of Tea Roses are in every respect among the best
+for house culture:
+
+_Bon Silene._--Flowers purplish-carmine; highly scented.
+
+_Niphetos._--Pure white, magnificent long buds; an incessant bloomer.
+
+_Perle de Jardins._--Sulphur-yellow, full and double; a splendid rose.
+
+_La France_ (Bourbon).--Bright lilac-rose, fine form; perpetual bloomer,
+half hardy.
+
+_Hermosa_ (Bourbon).--Light rose-color, cupped-shaped; a most perpetual
+bloomer.
+
+
+HYBRID PERPETUAL, AND MOSS ROSES.
+
+Both of the above classes are entirely distinct from either the Tea,
+Noisette, or Bourbon Roses; they are entirely hardy, exceedingly
+free-bloomers in their season--from June to July; their flowers have a
+delightful perfume, and are noted for the richness and variety of their
+colors. They require to be closely pruned annually. The spring is the
+most desirable time to prune. They should have a top-dressing of manure
+every fall. The ground should be kept well shaded around their roots in
+summer. They require a strong, rich soil to make them flower well. These
+roses are not desirable for house culture. The following are among the
+best varieties of the Hybrid Perpetual, or Remontant Roses:
+
+_Gen. Jacqueminot._--Brilliant crimson-scarlet; magnificent buds.
+
+_La Reine._--Deep rosy-pink; an ideal rose.
+
+_Coquette des Alps._--White; blooms in clusters.
+
+_Black Prince._--Blackish-crimson; large, full, and globular.
+
+_Victor Verdier._--Rich deep-rose; elegant buds.
+
+
+MOSS ROSES.
+
+Of this class we need not speak in detail to any who have ever seen its
+delicate moss-covered buds, and inhaled their delightful odor. They are
+perfectly hardy, and can be wintered without any protection. They are
+called perpetual, but this is a misnomer, for we know but one variety of
+Moss Rose that approaches it, that is the _Salet_ Moss. The rest are no
+more so than are the so-called Hybrid Perpetuals.
+
+Moss Roses should be severely pruned in spring, removing all the old
+wood.
+
+_Salet_, deep pink; _White Perpetual_, pure white; and _Crested_,
+rose-color, are the most desirable sorts.
+
+
+PROPAGATING THE ROSE.
+
+The Rose is somewhat difficult to propagate from cuttings, and it takes
+from three to four weeks for them to root under the best conditions.
+Moss Roses are generally multiplied by layering (see "Layering"), and by
+budding on the common Manetti or Multiflora stocks. The following will
+be found to be a very practicable and simple method of propagating roses
+on a small scale, and is attended with very little trouble or expense:
+In the fall place sand in a box, or cold frame, to the depth of eight
+inches. Take from the bushes the number of cuttings it is desired to
+propagate, making them with two or three points or eyes; insert them in
+the sand (which should be previously packed as solid as can be), then
+water thoroughly. As the cuttings are to remain in this frame all
+winter, it should be provided with a glass sash, and the whole covered
+with leaves and manure. It need not be banked up until freezing weather.
+If rightly done, we may expect at the least fifty per cent of the
+cuttings to come from their winter bed finely rooted. They should then
+be potted, and after growing awhile, planted out, and some of them will
+bloom the first season.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+JAPAN AND OTHER LILIES.--CALLA LILIES.
+
+
+If we call the rose the "Queen of Flowers," what royal title shall we
+bestow upon the beautiful Japan Lilies? We sometimes think it would be
+proper to name the Rose the King, for its commanding aspect, and the
+grandly beautiful Lily, the Queen of the floral kingdom. But, be this as
+it may, we have only to gaze upon a collection of Japan Lilies when in
+full bloom, and inhale their delicious odor, that perfumes the whole
+atmosphere, to be convinced of their superiority over all other flowers.
+Surely Solomon in all his glory was not arrayed like one of these.
+
+There are many different species and varieties of Lilies, but none
+approach those known as Japan Lilies in the beauty and variety of their
+flowers, and their exquisite fragrance. They are perfectly hardy, and
+the fall is the proper time to plant them. If good strong bulbs are set
+out in the ground in October or November, planted about eight inches
+deep, they will throw up strong shoots the following summer, and bloom
+freely. The flowers increase in size and beauty with the age of the
+bulb, and this should be left to grow undisturbed in the same spot for
+five or six years; afterwards, if desired, the bulbs can be dug up, the
+offshoots removed, and the old bulbs reset, and they will do better than
+ever. Any of the young bulbs that have been removed can be planted out
+in the ground, and in a few years will form good blooming bulbs. The
+time to perform this work is in the fall. Although entirely hardy
+without protection, it will benefit these lilies very much, if during
+the winter, they are covered with a coarse litter, leaves or any other
+good covering. This should be raked off early in the spring, as manure
+of any kind seems to injure them when they come in contact with it. The
+soil in which they do best is a light, sandy loam, well drained. The
+lily flourishes best in sunny locations. The following is a description
+of the leading varieties:
+
+LILIUM AURATUM.--This is the well-known Gold-banded Lily, and most
+decidedly the finest of all the Japan Lilies.
+
+L. CANDIDUM.--The old White Lily (not Japan) of the gardens; a splendid
+sort; elegant, large, pure white flowers, in clusters; blooms earlier
+than the others, but not the first year; it is one of the most beautiful
+Lilies.
+
+L. CITRINUM.--Very rare and beautiful; large, elegantly formed flowers;
+color, pale yellow, exquisitely tinged with blush.
+
+L. LONGIFLORUM.--Exceedingly beautiful; very long trumpet-shaped
+flowers, pure snow white.
+
+L. SPECIOSUM RUBRUM.--One of the finest of Japan Lilies; bright crimson
+and white spotted; splendid large flower, borne in clusters, stem two to
+three feet.
+
+L. TIGRINUM--SINGLE TIGER LILY.--This splendid Lily is one of the best
+in the list; the stem is tall; the flowers large and elegantly formed;
+blooms in large clusters; color, brilliant orange scarlet with intense
+black spots; remains in bloom a long time.
+
+L. UMBELATUM.--Very showy, brilliant red, variegated flowers in
+clusters.
+
+
+THE CALLA LILY.
+
+The Calla Lily, or "The Lily of the Nile," is an old and popular
+favorite, and is found in window-garden collections everywhere. It is a
+native of the tropics, where it is said it grows to an enormous size; a
+single flower often measuring one to two feet in diameter. The Calla
+will attain its highest perfection if planted in a rich, mucky soil,
+obtained from a swamp or bog. It also requires an abundance of water
+during the growing season. Callas, like all other bulbous plants, must
+have a season of rest. If required to bloom during the winter or spring
+months, they must be rested in the summer season, if this is not done we
+must not expect to have any success in flowering them. The blooming
+season can be reversed if desired, by resting in winter. Without
+allowing them at least three months of rest, it is useless to expect to
+flower them successfully. By "resting," we mean to withhold water, and
+allow the leaves and stalks to die down completely to the bulb. Then
+turn the pot on its side under a tree or grape-arbor, and let the soil
+dry up completely; this will kill the stalk but not injure the bulb.
+
+
+HOW TO PREPARE CALLAS FOR WINTER BLOOMING.
+
+After three months of this rest; or about the first of October, we
+"dump" out the plant, shake off all the old soil from the bulb or bulbs,
+and re-pot in fine, rich soil, using pots one size larger than those
+used the previous year; place the plants in a cool, shady spot, and
+water freely. Let them remain for two or three weeks, until new roots
+have formed, after which all danger is passed, and they can be removed
+into full light and heat. When growing, water freely. An application of
+strong liquid-manure once a week will add greatly to the growth of the
+plants, and to the number of blossoms produced. A very pretty effect can
+be obtained by arranging the plants about a fountain or pond where they
+will bloom freely throughout the summer season, presenting a tropical
+appearance. They will also grow well by standing the pots completely in
+the water.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+GERANIUMS--THE BEST TWELVE SORTS.
+
+
+There is no flower that can surpass the Geranium for profusion of bloom,
+brilliancy and variety of color, and general adaptability for house
+culture. The following are the best twelve sorts:
+
+
+DOUBLE VARIETIES.
+
+Madam Ballet, pure white; Jewel, dark crimson; Asa Gray, salmon, very
+free bloomer; Madam Lemoine, light pink, large trusses; Bishop Wood,
+rich scarlet, approaching to carmine; Charmieux, scarlet; Casimer
+Perrier, a very near approach to yellow
+
+
+SINGLE VARIETIES.
+
+New Life, variegated, crimson, and white; Gen. Grant, dazzling scarlet;
+Pauline Lucca, pure white, with pink-eye; Chief Justice, the darkest of
+all Geraniums, immense trusses; Pinafore, salmon, with white eye; La
+Vienne, pure white, pale stamens, splendid; Master Christine, light
+pink, elegant for bedding.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII.
+
+AZALEAS; HOW TO CULTIVATE THEM.
+
+
+Comparatively few of these charming plants are to be seen outside of
+green-houses and private conservatories, we know not for what reasons,
+unless it be the erroneous idea that they cannot be successfully grown
+unless one has the facilities of the florist. I think there is no class
+of plants more easy of culture, when the manner of treating them is once
+understood, than Azaleas. As they are decidedly winter-flowering plants,
+generally coming into bloom from December to March and April, they must
+be treated as such. They should have the same kind of treatment during
+the summer as recommended for Camellias, allowing them to rest in some
+cool, shady spot out-of-doors, during which period the flowering shoots
+will grow that are to give the bloom through the winter months. They can
+be taken into the house any time in the fall before freezing weather,
+and they will thrive well in an atmosphere suited to the generality of
+plants, although to bring the bloom out to the best, an atmosphere of
+55° is needed.
+
+There are over one hundred distinct varieties, ranging from pure white
+to lilac-purple, scarlet and pink, and when in full bloom the entire
+plant might be easily mistaken for a large bouquet, so literally covered
+is it with dazzling blossoms.
+
+One or two varieties of Azaleas should grace every collection; almost
+every florist keeps them in stock, and the price asked is but a small
+consideration compared with the amount of pleasure one will derive by
+having them in full bloom himself.
+
+Florists hardly ever attempt to multiply the Azaleas from cuttings, on
+account of the hardness of the wood, but the common mode of multiplying
+them is by grafting on the stock of the Wild Azalea, plants being easily
+and quickly obtained through this method. The Azalea will flourish best
+with a rich, mucky loam, a rather shady locality, and an abundance of
+water.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+CAMELLIAS.--ORANGE AND LEMON TREES.
+
+
+Dear reader, did you ever see a large Camellia plant in full blossom? If
+you have not, I will risk my reputation by saying that all other flowers
+within my knowledge, barring the rose, dwindle into insignificance when
+compared with it. It excels the finest rose in doubleness and form of
+its flowers, and puts the virgin lily to shame for spotless purity and
+whiteness; if it only possessed fragrance, it would be unquestionably
+the Queen of the floral world. What I shall have to say in regard to
+this plant, I hope will have the effect of introducing it into many
+homes where it has hitherto been little known. Few outside of
+professional florists have undertaken to cultivate the Camellia, for the
+reason, we suppose, that it is thought to be quite an impossibility to
+raise and bloom it successfully outside of a green-house; this is a
+mistake, although many believe it otherwise. I contend that Camellias
+can be as easily and as successfully grown in the window-garden as the
+Rose or Geranium.
+
+Camellias bloom in the winter, and at no other season of the year.
+Plants should be purchased of the florist in the fall or early in
+winter, and such plants as have flower-buds already formed; those
+plants, if kept in the right atmosphere, will bloom profusely, but they
+must have an atmosphere of 50° until the buds are all expanded, after
+which there will be no danger of the flowers blasting. As soon as the
+bloom has all passed off, the plants should be taken from their cool
+quarters, and placed with the other plants in a warm temperature, and
+watered freely, to encourage a vigorous growth previous to removing them
+out-of-doors in the spring. As soon as all danger of heavy frosts is
+over in the spring, the plants should be taken from the house and
+removed to some shady location, under a grape-arbor, in a pit or frame
+covered with shades; here leave them standing in the pots "plunging" the
+pots in earth or sand to prevent too rapid drying out.
+
+The summer is the period in which the flower-buds are formed that bloom
+in winter; the plants should be kept growing, and watered freely
+throughout the summer. They must be left out-of-doors as long as the
+weather will permit, but, on the approach of frost, take the plants into
+the house, and let them stand in a cool room, where the temperature is
+not over 50°. This is the critical time, for if they are removed into a
+warm temperature of 70° or 80°, the buds will all blast and drop off,
+and no flowers will be produced.
+
+If the plants are large and well-budded, a succession of bloom will be
+yielded throughout the entire winter. There are a number of varieties,
+embracing colors from red, pink, variegated, etc., to the purest
+waxy-white. The Double White Camellia Japonica, the white sort, is the
+most valuable for its bloom, the flowers being sometimes four to five
+inches in diameter, exceedingly double, with the petals imbricated, and
+of a waxy texture, and are highly prized by florists, who often charge
+as high as one dollar per flower for them. They are invaluable for
+funeral occasions, when pure white flowers are required. Plants are
+multiplied by either grafting or budding them on the common stock; it is
+almost impossible to raise plants from cuttings; they are slower than
+the Azalea to take root.
+
+
+ORANGE AND LEMON TREES.
+
+Both Orange and Lemon trees can be easily raised by sowing the seeds in
+good, rich soil, and after the seedlings become of sufficient size, a
+foot to fifteen inches high, they should be budded or grafted, otherwise
+blossoms and fruit cannot be expected. In the tropical climes, where
+these fruits are grown, there are varieties that spring up from the
+seeds of sweet oranges, called naturals; these yield a fruit that is
+edible, but is of an insipid taste. In no case can we obtain edible
+fruit of either Oranges or Lemons, budded or unbudded, in northern
+climates. The best time to bud these trees is when the seedlings are
+about a year old. They can be budded in the same manner as other trees,
+and as a rule, the buds take readily if the stock is in the right
+condition. Some graft them, but buds take better than grafts, and grow
+more rapidly. If the budding is successful, and the bud looks fresh and
+green in two weeks after it has been inserted, the union has taken
+place. The stock may then be cut off within two inches of the bud, and
+after the bud has started to grow, cut the stub still lower down, close
+to the bud. One bud in each stock is better than three or four. The soil
+best adapted to these trees is a rich, mucky loam. They should have
+plenty of pot room when growing, and, if possible, a warm, moist
+atmosphere.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+FUCHSIAS--TRAINING AND MANAGEMENT
+
+
+We confess to have a special liking for the Fuchsias, and think no
+assortment of house plants is complete without one or two varieties of
+these beautiful flowers. They are easily propagated, either from
+cuttings or by layers, and the amount of bloom one strong, healthy plant
+is capable of producing under favorable circumstances, is truly
+wonderful. Upon one plant of Fuchsia speciosa, started from a cutting of
+a single eye in March, we counted at one time, in the December
+following, one hundred and fifty perfect blossoms. The plant stood in an
+eight-inch pot, and measured four feet in hight. Some kinds do better as
+house plants than others, among the best are _F. speciosa_, _F.
+fulgens_, and the Rose of Castile, and I would particularly recommend
+these sorts as superior to all others for the window-garden. The right
+kind of soil has everything to do with success in growing fine Fuchsias;
+it should be of a light peaty quality, with one-third cow manure, and
+thoroughly mixed together until well decayed. They also relish an
+abundance of water; and if they have, while growing, an application of
+liquid manure once or twice a week, it will be beneficial; never allow
+the roots to become potbound, but when the roots begin to form a mat on
+the outside of the ball of earth, it is time to shift the plant into a
+pot of the next larger size, and so on as the plant requires it. This is
+a very important point, and should not be overlooked if strong, healthy
+plants are expected.
+
+Fuchsias are especially desirable for training on trellises. They can be
+trained over an upright trellis, and have a very pretty effect, but the
+best form is that of an umbrella. Secure a strong, vigorous plant, and
+allow one shoot to grow upright until about two feet high, then pinch
+off the top of the shoot. It will branch out and form a head, each shoot
+of which, when sufficiently long, may have a fine thread or hair-wire
+attached to the tip, by which to draw it downward; fasten the other end
+of the wire or thread to the stem of the plant, and all the shoots will
+then be pendent. When each of these branches has attained a length of
+eight inches, pinch off the tip, and the whole will form a dense head,
+resembling an umbrella in shape, and the graceful flowers pendent from
+each shoot will be handsome indeed. Remember to keep the stock clear of
+side-shoots, in order to throw the growth into the head.
+
+If properly taken care of, most Fuchsias will bloom the year round, but
+some kinds can be especially recommended for winter blooming, among them
+are _F. speciosa_, flesh-colored, with scarlet corolla; _F.
+serratifolia_, orange-scarlet corolla, greenish sepals; Meteor, deep-red
+corolla, light-pink sepals. The following are the finest in every
+respect that the market affords: Mrs. Bennett, pink; Sir Cohn Campbell,
+double blue; Rose of Castile, single violet; Elm City, double scarlet;
+Carl Holt, crimson; Tower of London, double blue; Wave of Life, foliage
+yellow, corolla violet; _F. speciosa_, single, flesh-colored, and _F.
+fulgens_, long red corolla.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXV.
+
+CACTUSES.--NIGHT-BLOOMING CEREUS.--REX BEGONIAS.
+
+
+For singularity and grotesqueness of form, as well as for the
+exceptional conditions under which they grow to the best advantage, no
+class of plants is more remarkable than the _Cactaceæ_. Of these, about
+a thousand species have been described by botanists; nearly all are
+indigenous to the New World, though but a small proportion are in
+cultivation. Cactuses delight in a dry, barren, sandy soil. They are
+naturally children of the desert. It is said by travellers that many of
+the species bear edible fruit, resembling somewhat in taste the
+gooseberry. So much for the peculiarities of the Cactus family in its
+native localities, but how can we succeed in cultivating the plants with
+satisfactory results in the window-garden?
+
+There are two simple methods of treatment that Cactuses should receive,
+namely: First, keep the soil about them constantly dry, and keep them
+in a warm place. Secondly, the soil should be of a poor quality, mixed
+with a little brick dust, and they should never be allowed too much pot
+room. If either of these two points are observed in the treatment of
+Cactuses, there will be no difficulty in keeping them in a flourishing
+condition all the time.
+
+
+THE NIGHT-BLOOMING CEREUS.
+
+The Night-blooming Cereus is an interesting plant, and excites much
+admiration when in flower, as it blooms at night-time only, the flowers
+closing up when exposed to the day-light. They are magnificent flowers
+when in full blow, but, unhappily, are short-lived, a flower never
+opening a second time. The plant belongs to the Cactus Family, and
+requires the same general treatment. There are a number of
+night-flowering species and varieties, but the one especially known as
+the Night-blooming Cereus is _Cereus grandiflorus_, which, when in full
+bloom, presents a rare sight. Some of the flowers of the night-blooming
+kinds are exceedingly fragrant, notably _Cereus triangularis_, a single
+flower of which, when in fall bloom, will fill the air of a room with
+its pleasant odor. These plants can be made to bloom freely by keeping
+the soil quite dry, and allowing them very little pot-room, as they
+depend more upon the atmosphere than the soil for their growth. We have
+known large plants of _Cereus grandiflorus_, to produce as many as
+twenty-five fine blossoms each in the course of a season. We have found
+that liquid manure, if applied to these plants about once a month, and
+when the soil about them is very dry, will work wonders in their growth,
+and when a rapid growth can be obtained, there will be no trouble in
+having an abundance of flowers at regular intervals. Care must be taken
+not to have the liquid too strong. A small quantity of brick dust,
+mixed with the soil in which they are growing, will be beneficial. These
+species of Cereus are easily propagated by cuttings, which will root
+readily in sand of any kind. Being of a slender habit of growth, and
+rather rampant, they should have some sort of support, and it is
+advisable to either train them to a trellis, or upon wires, or a string
+stretched over and along the window sash. We have had a number of
+flowers of a pure feathery white, _C. grandiflorus_, that were over
+fifteen inches in diameter; this is the best of the night-flowering
+species.
+
+
+PROPAGATING REX BEGONIAS.
+
+Those Begonias, known as belonging to the Rex division, are very
+beautiful, and also very distinct in both leaf and flower from all other
+species and varieties. The leaves are noted for their peculiar shape and
+markings, making them very valuable as ornamental house plants. They are
+easily multiplied from the leaf with its stalk. To propagate these, the
+leaf, or leaves, including the stalk, should be taken off close to the
+plant. Insert the stem of the leaf in sand, and deep enough to allow the
+leaf to lie flat upon the surface of the sand. It will take them about
+from two to three weeks to root, after which they should be potted in
+good, rich soil. It will take sometime to start them into a growth, but
+they grow very rapidly when they begin, and in two years will make large
+plants.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+ROCKERIES--HOW TO MAKE THEM.
+
+
+Many have a taste for forming grotesque pieces of rock work, selecting
+therefor such oddly-shaped and variously-colored rocks as may be
+gathered near the locality; these are generally piled in the form of a
+pyramid in a conspicuous place on the lawn, and if nicely arranged,
+cannot be surpassed in attractiveness, and are in pleasing contrast with
+the flower-beds and shrubbery. Some prefer to have merely the bare rocks
+heaped into a pile, which will appear grotesque and rugged; others set
+out suitable plants, and train vines to creep over them. We think the
+latter the best method, where common rocks are used, but if one is
+fortunate enough to live in a locality where a large number of
+variously-colored rocks can be obtained, their natural colors when
+arranged will make them highly attractive. One of the finest pieces of
+work of this kind we ever saw, was formed of a number of rocks gathered
+from almost every country on the globe, each stone having a peculiar
+tint of its own. On the top of this valuable pile was a rare specimen of
+Red Rock obtained from Siberia, in the region of eternal frost.
+
+
+HOW TO MAKE A ROCKERY.
+
+Having selected a site in a partly shaded spot, we will then proceed to
+form a mound of earth which may be drawn to the spot for the purpose if
+necessary. Upon and around this mound the rocks are to be placed, one
+layer thick, leaving here and there between them a small crevice in
+which to plant vines, or to drop a few seeds. The top of the heap may be
+left open, to allow of setting out, either in a pot or planted out in
+the earth, a choice specimen plant. Among the plants the most
+appropriate for the centre are: _Eulalia Japonica variegata_, and
+_Zebrina_. A variegated Agave may appropriately occupy the place, or
+some of the tall native wild ferns. A narrow circle may be cut around
+the base of the rockery, six or eight inches wide; after this is spaded
+up a row of blue Lobelia may be planted around the whole circle. Instead
+of the Lobelia, a row of _Echeveria secunda glauca_, or of the
+Mountain-of-Snow Geranium would look very finely. It may be well to
+mention here a number of the plants most appropriate for rockeries. Who
+is not familiar with the Moneywort, with its low-trailing habit and
+small yellow flowers? It is peculiarly adapted for rockeries. Portulaca,
+Paris Daisy (_Chrysanthemum frutescens_), _Myosotis_ (Forget-me-not),
+are among the most popular plants for rockeries. The small Sedum or
+Stone Crop (_Sedum acre_), is an interesting and useful little plant,
+growing freely on rock or rustic work. As vines are much used for such
+places, we will mention as the best hardy vines for this purpose
+Veitch's _Ampelopsis_ (_A. tricuspidata_), English or Irish Ivy, and the
+so-called running Myrtle. The above are entirely hardy and will stand
+any amount of freezing without injury.
+
+The following vines, although not hardy, are much used for rockeries:
+Thunbergias, Tropæolums, Kenilworth Ivy, and the German Ivy (_Senecio
+scandens_). Where a rockery is formed in the midst of a pond of water,
+as is often done, plants of the kind mentioned will not flourish so well
+as those of a semi-aquatic nature, such as Caladiums, Callas, some
+Ferns, Cannas, and Lycopodiums, all of which will flourish in moist
+places.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVII.
+
+BUDDING.
+
+
+Budding as an art is simple, useful, and easily acquired by any one with
+a little practice. More can be learned practically about budding in a
+few hours spent with a skillful nurseryman while he is performing the
+operation, than could be derived from anything we might write on the
+subject. We are aware that we shall not be able to state in this brief
+chapter what will be new or instructive to experienced gardeners or
+nurserymen. This is not our aim, what may be old to them is likely to be
+new to thousands of amateur gardeners. In another part of this book will
+be found a chapter on grafting; this, though differently performed, is
+analogous in its results to budding, and many amateurs not infrequently
+speak of them in the same terms. To graft a cion, one end is carefully
+cut in the shape of a wedge, and inserted in a cleft where it is to
+grow; on the other hand, in budding, we use but a single eye, taken from
+a small branch, and insert it inside of the bark of the stock or tree we
+wish to bud. From this one eye, we may in time look for a tree laden
+with precious fruit. To be more explicit, and by way of illustration, we
+will imagine a seedling apple tree, a "natural," to have grown up in our
+garden. If left alone, the fruit of that seedling tree would probably be
+worthless, but we don't propose to risk that, and will proceed to bud it
+with some kind more worthy of room in a garden. When the proper season
+for budding fruit arrives, generally from the first to the latter part
+of July, will be the time to bud, if the stock is growing thriftily. A
+keen-bladed budding knife made for the purpose, a "cion" or "stick" of
+the variety to be budded, some twine (basswood bark is the best), make
+up the needed outfit for this operation. If the seedling is large, say
+five or six feet high, it should be top-budded, putting in a bud or two
+in each of the thriftiest branches. If the stock is not over one to two
+feet high, a single bud a few inches from the ground will be the best
+way to make a good tree of it. At the spot where we have decided to
+insert the bud, we will make a short, horizontal cut, then downwards a
+short, perpendicular "slit," not over an inch long, and just penetrating
+through the bark; open the slit, care being taken not to scratch the
+wood within, then insert the bud at the top of the cut, and slide it
+down to its proper place inside of the bark, the top of the bud being in
+juxtaposition with the horizontal cut above. Considerable skill is
+required to cut a bud properly, and two methods are practised, known as
+"budding with the wood in," and "budding with the wood out." The former
+consists in cutting a very little wood with the bud, a little deeper
+than the bark itself, and in the latter the wood is removed from the
+bud, leaving nothing but the bare bark. Unquestionably the surest way
+for a young budder is to remove the wood, cutting a pretty deep bud, and
+then in making the cross cut let it be only as deep as the bark, and by
+giving it a twitch the bud will readily leave the wood. I will say,
+however, that most nurserymen insist on budding with the wood, which it
+is claimed is the surest and best way to bud. We have tried both ways
+for years, and have been able to discover no difference, excepting where
+the buds are quite green at the time of budding, when it is best to have
+a little wood with the bud to sustain it. Plums should invariably be
+budded with the wood out.
+
+After the bud has been properly set, it should be firmly tied with a
+broad string, making the laps close enough to entirely cover the slip,
+leaving the eye of the bud uncovered. Various kinds of strings for tying
+buds are used by nurserymen, but the basswood bark, which is made into
+broad, ribbon-like strips, seems peculiarly adapted for the purpose, and
+we advise its use where one has any considerable amount of budding to
+do. It usually takes from three to four weeks for a bud to callous and
+form a union with the stock; at the expiration of this time the strings
+should be taken off; we would except only those cases where the stock is
+growing, when if the strings pinch the stock too closely, they can be
+removed some time sooner.
+
+The stock or stocks can now be left until the following spring, when the
+top should be cut away to within an inch or less of the bud; this will
+assist the roots to throw all their energy into the bud.
+
+
+TOP-BUDDING TREES.
+
+The top-budding of fruit and ornamental trees is much practised
+now-a-days by orchardists and fruit-growers generally, and sometimes
+with marked success.
+
+A famous horticulturist of Geneva, N. Y., some years ago planted a large
+number of Lombard plum trees, which he fondly expected to see come into
+bearing while quite young, and be early compensated for his labor and
+expense in planting them. He waited a number of years without seeing his
+hopes realized; his patience at last became exhausted, and starting, lie
+top-budded them all with the Bradshaw plum, which grew rapidly, and bore
+abundantly in a couple of years, and last season he received eight
+dollars per bushel for the fruit in the Philadelphia market. It is a
+well known fact among fruit-growers that some rank-growing varieties of
+fruit trees, as for instance the Keiffer Hybrid Pear, do not produce
+fruit so early, or in such abundance as some less thrifty-growing
+varieties, such as the _Beurre Clairgeau_, but by top-budding the
+latter-named sort on to a thrifty specimen of the former, we have a tree
+that will bear fruit almost every year.
+
+Nothing will take better from the bud than the rose; some elegant tree
+roses can be grown by simply training up a shoot of any common or wild
+rose to a sufficient hight, about five feet, and then top-budding it
+with three or four choice hybrids, as the _Gen. Jacqueminot_, _La
+Reine_, _Coquette des Alps_, and _Black Prince_, and those gems of the
+floral kingdom, when in blossom, will form a variety of dazzling
+beauties, the effect of which will not only be charming to the eye, but
+novel as well. I once removed from the door-yard a large rose bush of
+the _Crimson Boursault_ variety, which had a number of large limbs on,
+into a corner of the conservatory, and there budded into it fifty
+different choice varieties of Roses of all classes: Hybrids, Teas,
+Noisettes, Bourbons, China, and Bengal varieties. The effect of all
+these different Roses, when in full blow the following summer was
+amazing; a perfect galaxy of the "Queen of Flowers."
+
+A similar operation is possible for any skillful amateur florist to
+perform who has the facilities of a hot-house.
+
+Budding can only be done when, ripe buds can be obtained, and when the
+stock to be budded is in a growing and thrifty condition, so that when
+opening the bark of the stock, the same peels freely, and opens readily
+at the touch of the knife. We will append here a brief table showing at
+what months of the summer different trees may be budded:
+
+  Apples       July 10th to 12th.
+  Pears        July 10th to 12th.
+  Plums        July 10th to 12th.
+  Cherries     July 20th to Aug. 1st.
+  Quinces      July 20th to Aug. 1st.
+  Peaches      July 20th to Aug. 1st.
+  Nectarines   Aug. 10th to 20th.
+  Apricots     Aug. 10th to 20th.
+
+Most all sorts of ornamental trees, including Roses, in the ordinary
+season; namely, from July to August 1st.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVIII.
+
+PRUNING.
+
+
+If we plant trees or shrubs upon our grounds with the hope of making
+them more attractive, and at the same time indulge in the common and
+mistaken idea that, if we only plant them that nature will take care of
+their future, and grow them into handsome and shapely trees and
+shrubs--we labor in vain. It is not uncommon to see in the centre of
+refinement and culture every where, sadly neglected door-yards; these
+are filled with rampant bushes, and wide-spreading evergreens; such
+yards have more of a "cemetery look" than should belong to the
+surroundings of a cheerful home.
+
+With a little pruning in the proper season, these unshapely bushes might
+become things of beauty, and not only look better, but will do better,
+if given a severe trimming in the spring. Hedges of Privet, Purple
+Barberry, and Japan Quince, look much prettier along the walk than the
+old-fashioned fences, which are now being rapidly done away with.
+
+They should be kept pruned low as to not allow them to grow over two
+feet high.
+
+The proper time for trimming hedges of all kinds is in mid-summer, after
+the shrubs have made a thrifty growth; we would advise an annual pruning
+in order to have the hedge looking finely.
+
+It is a bad plan to allow a hedge of any kind, especially an evergreen
+one, to run a number of years without trimming. If a hedge is neglected
+so long, and then severely pruned, it will look stubby and shabby for a
+year or two after. With a pair of sharp hedge-shears, a person having a
+straight eye will make a good job of the trimming every time.
+
+The spring is the time of the year in which to do the pruning of all
+kinds of plants, vines, and shrubs, that are out of doors, as they are
+then dormant. Some prefer to prune grape vines in the fall, just after
+they have ripened and shed their leaves. We think it unsafe to prune
+anything too severely in the fall, especially the grape vine. Much
+experience has taught us to select the month of March as the time of the
+year most suitable for performing the operation.
+
+Every one who has a garden should possess a pruning knife with a long
+blade, curved at the end, for the operation. Armed with this implement,
+let us take a walk upon the lawn, and down into the garden, while the
+snow is still white upon the ground. The first thing that we meet as we
+enter the garden, is the large grape trellis, with its mass of tangled
+brown canes, a perfect mat of long vines and curling tendrils. How are
+we to attack this formidable network of vines in order to do anything
+with them? The first thing to be done is to sever all the cords and ties
+that fasten the vines to the trellis, and allow them to fall to the
+ground for convenience in trimming them. Spread the vines out full
+length upon the ground, and beginning at one of its arms, cut each shoot
+of the previous season's growth back to two eyes; if the canes are too
+numerous some may be cut out entirely. After all the "arms" of each vine
+have been pruned in this manner, the vine can be returned to the arbor
+and tied up as before. If there is a prospect of cold weather let the
+vines lie upon the ground, as they will be less liable to "bleed," or to
+suffer from the cold. This is the simplest way we know of to trim grape
+vines, and any amateur gardener can do it if he tries this manner.
+Walking a little further, we come upon some rose bushes: there are too
+many branches among them, and too much old wood, and some that is
+entirely dead. With our knife we will remove at least one half of this
+excess of wood, leaving as much young wood of the previous season's
+growth as possible by thinning out the old limbs and dead wood severely.
+Here is one Moss Rose bush, the stems appear as brown and looking as
+seared as a berry; it is apparently winter killed, and by cutting into
+it we find that to be the case; the roots are in all probability sound,
+and we will cut the stems down to the ground and cover the place with a
+forkful of stable manure; if the roots are alive it will grow and bloom
+the coming summer. Here is a large standard Rose with a fine top, we
+will head this back short, cutting each stem to an eye or two of the
+bottom. Proceeding to the lawn we run across some weeping deciduous
+trees, among them is a large Kilmarnock Weeping Willow, its beautiful
+pendant branches fairly reach the ground, and switch the snow as they
+sway to and fro. Nothing more beautiful could be imagined. We would head
+this back close, and it should be done every spring and most of the old
+wood thinned out. This large climbing Rose that clings so close to the
+piazza, should be trimmed about in the same way as we did the grape
+vine, and also this large Clematis Jackmanii should be cut to the ground
+and allowed to start up anew in the spring. Here is a clump of shrubbery
+among which we see the _Weigela_, _Spiræas_, _Purple Fringe_, _Deutzia
+crenata_, _Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora_, the Syringa, and a number
+of other favorite shrubs. These will all need more or less cutting back
+and trimming, and now is a good time to do it. We know one gentleman who
+boasted the finest display of Roses in his county, who was in the habit
+of cutting his Rose bushes down to the ground every spring, and when
+they began to grow he had dug in around each one an abundance of well
+rotted compost, "and," said he, "I have never seen the day, from June
+to October, that I could not pluck a large bouquet of the choicest
+Hybrid Perpetual roses, while my next door neighbor, who also had rose
+bushes, could find no flower after June." I will say that this gentleman
+was in the habit of cutting his roses once a day, and never allowing the
+flowers to fade on the bush, which is an excellent plan to keep up a
+perpetuity of bloom.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIX.
+
+MISCELLANEOUS NOTES.
+
+
+TREE ROSES.
+
+In planting tree roses received from the nursery or elsewhere, be sure
+and set them deep; the stem, for six or eight inches above the collar,
+should be under ground. If wet moss be tied about the stem and head of
+the tree after it has been planted, and the moss kept wet for a week or
+two after planting, or until the buds begin to start, it will, in nine
+cases out of ten, save the tree. The moss maybe removed after the growth
+begins. If planted in the fall, the body and top should be well wrapped
+up in straw.
+
+
+THE LAWN.
+
+If one has a fine lawn and desires to keep it so, he should never work
+upon or mow it when the turf is wet or soggy. The impression made by the
+feet in walking over the sod while in this state, will leave the surface
+rough and uneven afterwards. Do not water the grass or plants while the
+sun is shining hot, as it will scorch the leaves and make them turn
+yellow. All weeds, such as dandelions, plantain, etc., growing up
+through the grass, should be carefully and thoroughly dug out by the
+roots with a knife or pointed spade; if allowed to remain, they will
+soon become so numerous as eventually to kill out the grass and give to
+the lawn an appearance of neglect.
+
+
+LAWN VASES.
+
+The earth in vases of plants that stand out in exposed places, will
+rapidly dry out; if shells or fine gravel is laid over the surface of
+the soil, they will prevent it from "baking" after watering, and hold
+the moisture much longer than without. Try it.
+
+
+PLANTING TREES.
+
+The spring is preferable to the fall for setting out trees and shrubs of
+all kinds. In the Northern States they should be set out about the first
+of April, to give the roots time enough to become established before
+warm weather starts the leaves.
+
+Of thousands of trees and shrubs that we have planted at this season,
+comparatively few failed to live and grow, providing they were in good
+condition at the time of planting. Young trees should not be headed back
+the year they are set out, but the roots may be trimmed a little,
+cutting off all that are bruised and broken. The hole in which a tree or
+shrub is to be set, should be ample enough to receive all the roots
+without cramping them into a ball, as is the habit of some who plant
+trees, the soil filled in about the roots should be fine, but not the
+sub-soil, which should be replaced by richer earth. Never allow manure
+to come in direct contact with the roots at the time of planting. It is
+very injurious, but it may be applied on the surface as a mulch, with
+safety.
+
+
+BOTANICAL NAMES.
+
+All species of plants belong to some particular genus, and bear a
+botanical, as well as a common name, by which they are distinguished.
+Those who have studied botany will know the exact botanical name of the
+plants in most collections. We sometimes see persons making themselves
+ridiculous by a pretended display of knowledge on matters of
+horticulture and botany, giving or pretending to give the botanical name
+of every plant one may happen to mention. The following anecdote will
+apply to such: Mr. Sidney Smith, the famous English writer, was once
+visiting the conservatory of a young lady who was proud of her plants
+and flowers, and used (not very accurately) a profusion of botanical
+names. "Madam," he said, "have you the _Psoriasis septennis_?" "No," she
+said, very innocently, "I had it last winter, and I gave it to the
+Archbishop of Canterbury, and it came out beautifully in the spring."
+_Psoriasis septennis_, is the medical name for the "Seven year Itch!"
+
+
+FROZEN PLANTS.
+
+Tender plants that have become frozen, or but slightly touched by frost,
+can be saved, if taken before they commence to thaw out; sprinkle or dip
+the affected part in cold water, and then remove the plant or plants
+into a dark place to remain for a day, then bring them to the light. We
+have saved whole beds of tender plants from death by early frosts in the
+autumn, by getting up long before sunrise, drenching the leaves with
+water, and then covering the plants with a sheet or blanket.
+
+
+CUTTING GRASS.
+
+It is so easy to mow the lawn with the light-running modern lawn-mower,
+that many fine lawns are injured by too frequent mowings. We should not
+follow any set time for mowing, but be governed by the growth of the
+grass and the weather. When hot weather approaches, the grass should be
+cut less often, for too close cutting will expose the roots, and if the
+weather be dry and hot for a considerable period, the grass as a
+consequence will wither prematurely.
+
+
+AN ARCH.
+
+A very simple thing sometimes will look the most attractive. By driving
+two limber poles into the ground by the side of each of two gate posts,
+and bringing the two ends of the poles together, and fasten them
+securely, a respectable arch can be made. At the foot of each pole plant
+a _Clematis Jackmanii_, and train them to run up their poles; they will
+grow rapidly, and in a short time the arch will be covered with
+beautiful purple stars. This Clematis is entirely hardy, and can be used
+for the same purpose every year by cutting it close to the ground in the
+fall when done growing.
+
+
+BLOOM.
+
+When watering plants avoid wetting the foliage as much as possible, as
+they will not bloom as freely as if the leaves were dry. Geraniums are
+known to bloom a great deal more freely where the roots are confined to
+a small space, and the soil about them kept rather dry; especially is
+this so with the double sorts.
+
+Geraniums may be grafted successfully; the short growers, like Mrs.
+Pollock, Mountain of Snow, and Happy Thought, can be top-grafted on to
+the strong-growing kinds, like Gen. Grant, Madam Lemoine, and other
+strong-growers. If half a dozen sorts are grafted on a single stock,
+they will, when in bloom, appear as a curiosity.
+
+
+MILDEW.
+
+Mildew is a microscopic fungus, that is parasitic upon cultivated
+plants. Roses, Bouvardias, and especially grape vines, are subject to
+its attacks. If not arrested, mildew will soon strip a plant of its
+foliage. Whenever a whitish dust, as if flour had been sprinkled upon
+them, appears upon the leaves, particularly those of the Rose, and its
+leaves curl up, it is evident that the plant is attacked by mildew, and
+some remedy must be at once applied to prevent the spread of the
+trouble. Several excellent remedies are used by florists and gardeners
+for the prevention and cure of mildew. None of these are more effective
+than the following, which, if applied in time, before the disease has
+become so bad as to be beyond help, will very surely arrest it. Take
+three pounds each, of Flowers of Sulphur and Quick-lime, put these
+together and add sufficient hot water to slake the lime. When the lime
+is slaked, add six gallons of water, and boil down to two gallons. Allow
+the lime to settle, and pour off the clear liquid and bottle it for use.
+To treat plants affected by mildew, add one gill of the liquid, prepared
+as above, to six gallons of water, and mix well together. This is to be
+freely syringed upon the plants every other day. It will not only arrest
+mildew, but prevent it. Sudden changes of temperature, as cool nights
+following warm days, tend to the production of mildew, and with house
+plants, these sudden changes should be carefully guarded against.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXX.
+
+SENTIMENT AND LANGUAGE OF FLOWERS.
+
+
+  Amaranth                   Immortality.
+  Amaryllis                  Beautiful, but timid.
+  Aster, double              Variety.
+  Aster, German              Afterthought.
+  Arbutus                    Thee only do I love.
+  Acacia                     Friendship.
+  Apple Blossom              Preference.
+  Asphodel                   Remembered after death.
+  Arbor Vitæ                 Unchanging friendship.
+  Alyssum                    Worth beyond beauty.
+  Anemone                    Your love changes.
+  Azalea                     Pleasant recollections.
+  Argeratum                  Worth beyond beauty.
+  Balsam                     Impatience.
+  Blue Bell                  Constancy.
+  Balm                       Pleasantry.
+  Bay-leaf                   I change but in death.
+  Bachelor's                 Button   Hope.
+  Begonia                    Deformed.
+  Bitter Sweet               Truth.
+  Buttercup                  Memories of childhood.
+  Brier, Sweet               Envy.
+  Calla                      Feminine Modesty.
+  Carnation                  Pride.
+  Clematis                   Mental Excellence.
+  Cypress                    Disappointment, Despair
+  Crocus                     Happiness.
+  Columbine                  I cannot give thee up.
+  Cresses                    Always cheerful.
+  Canterbury Bell            Constancy.
+  Cereus, Night-blooming     Transient beauty.
+  Candytuft                  Indifference.
+  Chrysanthemum              Heart left desolate.
+  Clover, White              I promise.
+  Clover, Four-leaved        Be mine.
+  Crown Imperial             Authority.
+  Camellia                   Spotless purity.
+  Cissus                     Changeable.
+  Centaurea                  Your looks deceive me.
+  Cineraria                  Singleness of heart.
+  Daisy, Field               I will think of it.
+  Dahlia                     Dignity.
+  Daffodil                   Unrequited love.
+  Dandelion                  Coquetry.
+  Everlasting                Always remembered.
+  Everlasting Pea            Wilt thou go with me.
+  Ebony                      Blackness.
+  Fuchsia                    Humble love.
+  Foxglove                   Insincerity.
+  Fern                       Sincerity.
+  Fennel                     Strength.
+  Forget-me-not              For ever remembered.
+  Fraxinella                 Fire.
+  Geranium, Ivy              Fond of dancing.
+  Geranium, Oak              A melancholy mind.
+  Geranium, Rose             I prefer you.
+  Geranium, Scarlet          Stillness.
+  Gladiolus                  Ready armed.
+  Golden Rod                 Encouragement.
+  Gillyflower                Promptness.
+  Hyacinth                   Benevolence.
+  Honeysuckle                Devoted love.
+  House Leek                 Domestic economy.
+  Heliotrope                 I adore you.
+  Hibiscus                   Delicate beauty.
+  Hollyhock                  Ambition.
+  Hydrangea                  Vain glory.
+  Ice Plant                  Your looks freeze me.
+  Ivy                        Friendship.
+  Iris, German               Flame.
+  Iris, Common Garden        A message for thee.
+  Jonquil                    Affection returned.
+  Jessamine, White           Amiability.
+  Jessamine, Yellow          Gracefulness.
+  Larkspur                   Fickleness.
+  Lantana                    Rigor.
+  Laurel                     Words though sweet may deceive.
+  Lavender                   Mistrust.
+  Lemon Blossom              Discretion.
+  Lady Slipper               Capricious beauty.
+  Lily of the Valley         Return of happiness.
+  Lilac, White               Youth.
+    "    Blue                First emotions of love.
+  Lily, Water                Eloquence.
+  May Flower                 Welcome.
+  Marigold                   Sacred affection.
+  Marigold and Cypress       Despair.
+  Mandrake                   Rarity.
+  Mignonette                 Your qualities surpass your charms.
+  Morning Glory              Coquetry, Affectation.
+  Mock Orange                Counterfeit.
+  Myrtle                     Love in absence.
+  Mistletoe                  Insurmountable.
+  Narcissus                  Egotism.
+  Nasturtium                 Patriotism.
+  Oxalis                     Reverie.
+  Orange Blossom             Purity.
+  Olive                      Peace.
+  Oleander                   Beware.
+  Primrose                   Modest worth.
+  Pink, White                Pure love.
+    "   Red                  Devoted love.
+  Phlox                      Our hearts are united.
+  Periwinkle                 Sweet memories.
+  Pæony                      Ostentation.
+  Pansy                      You occupy my thoughts.
+  Poppy                      Oblivion.
+  Rhododendron               Agitation.
+  Rose, Bud                  Confession of love.
+    "    "  White            Too young to love.
+    "   Austrian             Thou art all that is lovely.
+    "   Leaf                 I never trouble.
+    "   Monthly              Beauty ever new.
+    "   Moss                 Superior merit.
+    "   Red                  I love you.
+    "   Yellow               Infidelity.
+  Rosemary                   Remembrance.
+  Sensitive Plant            Modesty.
+  Snow-Ball                  Thoughts in heaven.
+  Snow-Drop                  Consolation.
+  Sumach                     Pride and poverty.
+  Sweet William              Gallantry.
+  Syringa                    Memory.
+  Sunflower                  Lofty thought.
+  Tuberose                   Purity of mind.
+  Thyme                      Activity.
+  Tulip, var                 Beautiful eyes.
+  Tulip, Red                 Declaration of love.
+  Tritoma                    Fiery temper.
+  Verbena                    Sensibility.
+     "    Purple             I weep for you.
+     "    White              Pray for me.
+  Violet, Blue               Faithfulness.
+     "    White              Purity, candor.
+  Woodbine                   Fraternal love.
+  Wall Flower                Fidelity in misfortune.
+  Wistaria                   Close friendship.
+  Wax Plant                  Artificial beauty.
+  Yucca                      Your looks pierce me.
+  Yew                        Sadness.
+  Zinnia                     I mourn your absence.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+  SENT FREE ON APPLICATION
+
+  Descriptive Catalog
+  _of_ Rural Books
+
+  _CONTAINING 128 8vo PAGES, PROFUSELY
+  ILLUSTRATED, AND GIVING FULL DESCRIPTIONS
+  OF THE BEST WORKS ON THE FOLLOWING SUBJECTS_
+
+  Farm and Garden
+  Fruits, Flowers, etc.
+  Cattle, Sheep and Swine
+  Dogs, Horses, Riding, etc.
+         Poultry, Pigeons and Bees
+         Angling and Fishing
+         Boating, Canoeing and Sailing
+         Field Sports and Natural History
+  Hunting, Shooting, etc.
+  Architecture and Building
+  Landscape Gardening
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+
+
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+  315-321 Fourth Avenue   NEW YORK
+
+
+  Books will be Forwarded, Postpaid, on Receipt of Price
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+=Farm Grasses of the United States of America=
+
+By WILLIAM JASPER SPILLMAN. A practical treatise on the grass crop,
+seeding and management of meadows and pastures, description of the best
+varieties, the seed and its impurities, grasses for special conditions,
+lawns and lawn grasses, etc., etc. In preparing this volume the author's
+object has been to present, in connected form, the main facts concerning
+the grasses grown on American farms. Every phase of the subject is
+viewed from the farmer's standpoint. Illustrated. 248 pages. 5 x 7
+inches. Cloth. $1.0
+
+
+=The Book of Corn=
+
+By HERBERT MYRICK, assisted by A. D. SHAMBIA, E. A. BURNETT, ALBERT W.
+FULTON, B. W. SNOW, and other most capable specialists. A complete
+treatise on the culture, marketing and uses of maize in America and
+elsewhere for farmers, dealers and others. Illustrated. 372 pages. 5 x 7
+inches. Cloth. $1.50
+
+
+=The Hop--Its Culture and Care, Marketing and Manufacture=
+
+By HERBERT MYRICK. A practical handbook on the most approved methods in
+growing, harvesting, curing and selling hops, and on the use and
+manufacture of hops. The result of years of research and observation, it
+is a volume destined to be an authority on this crop for many years to
+come. It takes up every detail from preparing the soil and laying out
+the yard, to curing and selling the crop. Every line represents the
+ripest judgment and experience of experts. Size, 5 x 8; pages, 300;
+illustrations, nearly 150; bound in cloth and gold; price, postpaid,
+$1.50
+
+
+=Tobacco Leaf=
+
+By J. B. KILLEBREW and HERBERT MYRICK. Its Culture and Cure, Marketing
+and Manufacture. A practical handbook on the most approved methods in
+growing, harvesting, curing, packing and selling tobacco, with an
+account of the operations in every department of tobacco manufacture.
+The contents of this book are based on actual experiments in field,
+curing barn, packing house, factory and laboratory. It is the only work
+of the kind in existence, and is destined to be the standard practical
+and scientific authority on the whole subject of tobacco for many years.
+506 pages and 150 original engravings. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $2.00
+
+
+=Bulbs and Tuberous-Rooted Plants=
+
+By C. L. ALLEN. A complete treatise on the history description, methods
+of propagation and full directions for the successful culture of bulbs
+in the garden, dwelling and green-house. The author of this book has for
+many years made bulb growing a specialty, and is a recognized authority
+on their cultivation and management. The cultural directions are plainly
+stated, practical and to the point. The illustrations which embellish
+this work have been drawn from nature and have been engraved especially
+for this book. 312 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.50
+
+
+=Fumigation Methods=
+
+By WILLIS G. JOHNSON. A timely up-to-date book on the practical
+application of the new methods for destroying insects with hydrocyanic
+acid gas and carbon bisulphid, the most powerful insecticides ever
+discovered. It is an indispensable book for farmers, fruit growers,
+nurserymen, gardeners, florists, millers, grain dealers, transportation
+companies, college and experiment station workers, etc. Illustrated. 313
+pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.00
+
+
+=Diseases of Swine=
+
+By Dr. R. A. CRAIG, Professor of Veterinary Medicine at the Purdue
+University. A concise, practical and popular guide to the prevention and
+treatment of the diseases of swine. With the discussions on each disease
+are given its causes, symptoms, treatment and means of prevention. Every
+part of the book impresses the reader with the fact that its writer is
+thoroughly and practically familiar with all the details upon which he
+treats. All technical and strictly scientific terms are avoided, so far
+as feasible, thus making the work at once available to the practical
+stock raiser as well as to the teacher and student. Illustrated. 5 x 7
+inches. 190 pages. Cloth. $0.75
+
+
+=Spraying Crops--Why, When and How=
+
+By CLARENCE M. WEED, D.Sc. The present fourth edition has been rewritten
+and set throughout to bring it thoroughly up to date, so that it
+embodies the latest practical information gleaned by fruit growers and
+experiment station workers. So much new information has come to light
+since the third edition was published that this is practically a new
+book, needed by those who have utilized the earlier editions, as well as
+by fruit growers and farmers generally. Illustrated. 136 pages. 5 x 7
+inches. Cloth. $0.50
+
+
+=Successful Fruit Culture=
+
+By SAMUEL T. MAYNARD. A practical guide to the cultivation and
+propagation of Fruits, written from the standpoint of the practical
+fruit grower who is striving to make his business profitable by growing
+the best fruit possible and at the least cost. It is up-to-date in every
+particular, and covers the entire practice of fruit culture, harvesting,
+storing, marketing, forcing, best varieties, etc., etc. It deals with
+principles first and with the practice afterwards, as the foundation,
+principles of plant growth and nourishment must always remain the same,
+while practice will vary according to the fruit grower's immediate
+conditions and environments. Illustrated. 265 pages. 5 x 7 inches.
+Cloth. $1.00
+
+
+=Plums and Plum Culture=
+
+By F. A. WAUGH. A complete manual for fruit growers, nurserymen, farmers
+and gardeners, on all known varieties of plums and their successful
+management. This book marks an epoch in the horticultural literature of
+America. It is a complete monograph of the plums cultivated in and
+indigenous to North America. It will be found indispensable to the
+scientist seeking the most recent and authoritative information
+concerning this group, to the nurseryman who wishes to handle his
+varieties accurately and intelligently, and to the cultivator who would
+like to grow plums successfully. Illustrated. 391 pages. 5 x 7 inches.
+Cloth. $1.50
+
+
+=Fruit Harvesting, Storing, Marketing=
+
+By F. A. WAUGH. A practical guide to the picking, storing, shipping and
+marketing of fruit. The principal subjects covered are the fruit market,
+fruit picking, sorting and packing, the fruit storage, evaporation,
+canning, statistics of the fruit trade, fruit package laws, commission
+dealers and dealing, cold storage, etc., etc. No progressive fruit
+grower can afford to be without this most valuable book. Illustrated.
+232 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.00
+
+
+=Systematic Pomology=
+
+By F. A. WAUGH, professor of horticulture and landscape gardening in the
+Massachusetts agricultural college, formerly of the university of
+Vermont. This is the first book in the English language which has ever
+made the attempt at a complete and comprehensive treatment of systematic
+pomology. It presents clearly and in detail the whole method by which
+fruits are studied. The book is suitably illustrated. 288 pages. 5 x 7
+inches. Cloth. $1.00
+
+
+=Feeding Farm Animals=
+
+By Professor THOMAS SHAW. This book is intended alike for the student
+and the farmer. The author has succeeded in giving in regular and
+orderly sequence, and in language so simple that a child can understand
+it, the principles that govern the science and practice of feeding farm
+animals. Professor Shaw is certainly to be congratulated on the
+successful manner in which he has accomplished a most difficult task.
+His book is unquestionably the most practical work which has appeared on
+the subject of feeding farm animals. Illustrated. 5-1/2 x 8 inches.
+Upward of 500 pages. Cloth. $2.00
+
+
+=Profitable Dairying=
+
+By C. L. PECK. A practical guide to successful dairy management. The
+treatment of the entire subject is thoroughly practical, being
+principally a description of the methods practiced by the author. A
+specially valuable part of this book consists of a minute description of
+the far-famed model dairy farm of Rev. J. D. Detrich, near Philadelphia,
+Pa. On the farm of fifteen acres, which twenty years ago could not
+maintain one horse and two cows, there are now kept twenty-seven dairy
+cattle, in addition to two horses. All the roughage, litter, bedding,
+etc., necessary for these animals are grown on these fifteen acres, more
+than most farmers could accomplish on one hundred acres. Illustrated. 5
+x 7 inches. 200 pages. Cloth. $0.75
+
+
+=Practical Dairy Bacteriology=
+
+By Dr. H. W. CONN, of Wesleyan University. A complete exposition of
+important facts concerning the relation of bacteria to various problems
+related to milk. A book for the classroom, laboratory, factory and farm.
+Equally useful to the teacher, student, factory man and practical
+dairyman. Fully illustrated with 83 original pictures. 340 pages. Cloth.
+5-1/2 x 8 inches. $1.25
+
+
+=Modern Methods of Testing Milk and Milk Products=
+
+By L. L. VANSLYKE. This is a clear and concise discussion of the
+approved methods of testing milk and milk products. All the questions
+involved in the various methods of testing milk and cream are handled
+with rare skill and yet in so plain a manner that they can be fully
+understood by all. The book should be in the hands of every dairyman,
+teacher or student. Illustrated. 214 pages. 5 x 7 inches. $0.75
+
+
+=Animal Breeding=
+
+By THOMAS SHAW. This book is the most complete and comprehensive work
+ever published on the subject of which it treats. It is the first book
+which has systematized the subject of animal breeding. The leading laws
+which govern this most intricate question the author has boldly defined
+and authoritatively arranged. The chapters which he has written on the
+more involved features of the subject, as sex and the relative influence
+of parents, should go far toward setting at rest the wildly speculative
+views cherished with reference to these questions. The striking
+originality in the treatment of the subject is no less conspicuous than
+the superb order and regular sequence of thought from the beginning to
+the end of the book. The book is intended to meet the needs of all
+persons interested in the breeding and rearing of live stock.
+Illustrated. 405 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.50
+
+
+=Forage Crops Other Than Grasses=
+
+By THOMAS SHAW. How to cultivate, harvest and use them. Indian corn,
+sorghum, clover, leguminous plants, crops of the brassica genus, the
+cereals, millet, field roots, etc. Intensely practical and reliable.
+Illustrated. 287 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.00
+
+
+=Soiling Crops and the Silo=
+
+By THOMAS SHAW. The growing and feeding of all kinds of soiling crops,
+conditions to which they are adapted, their plan in the rotation, etc.
+Not a line is repeated from the Forage Crops book. Best methods of
+building the silo, filling it and feeding ensilage. Illustrated. 364
+pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.50
+
+
+=The Study of Breeds=
+
+By THOMAS SHAW. Origin, history, distribution, characteristics,
+adaptability, uses, and standards of excellence of all pedigreed breeds
+of cattle, sheep and swine in America. The accepted text book in
+colleges, and the authority for farmers and breeders. Illustrated. 371
+pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.50
+
+
+=Clovers and How to Grow Them=
+
+By THOMAS SHAW. This is the first book published which treats on the
+growth, cultivation and treatment of clovers as applicable to all parts
+of the United States and Canada, and which takes up the entire subject
+in a systematic way and consecutive sequence. The importance of clover
+in the economy of the farm is so great that an exhaustive work on this
+subject will no doubt be welcomed by students in agriculture, as well as
+by all who are interested in the tilling of the soil. Illustrated. 5 x 7
+inches. 337 pages. Cloth. Net. $1.00
+
+
+=Land Draining=
+
+A handbook for farmers on the principles and practice of draining, by
+MANLY MILES, giving the results of his extended experience in laying
+tile drains. The directions for the laying out and the construction of
+tile drains will enable the farmer to avoid the errors of imperfect
+construction, and the disappointment that must necessarily follow. This
+manual for practical farmers will also be found convenient for reference
+in regard to many questions that may arise in crop growing, aside from
+the special subjects of drainage of which it treats. Illustrated. 200
+pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.00
+
+
+=Barn Plans and Outbuildings=
+
+Two hundred and fifty-seven illustrations. A most valuable work, full of
+ideas, hints, suggestions, plans, etc., for the construction of barns
+and outbuildings, by practical writers. Chapters are devoted to the
+economic erection and use of barns, grain barns, horse barns, cattle
+barns, sheep barns, cornhouses, smokehouses, icehouses, pig pens,
+granaries, etc. There are likewise chapters on birdhouses, doghouses,
+tool sheds, ventilators, roofs and roofing, doors and fastenings,
+workshops, poultry houses, manure sheds, barnyards, root pits, etc. 235
+pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.00
+
+
+=Irrigation Farming=
+
+By LUTE WILCOX. A handbook for the practical application of water in the
+production of crops. A complete treatise on water supply, canal
+construction, reservoirs and ponds, pipes for irrigation purposes,
+flumes and their structure, methods of applying water, irrigation of
+field crops, the garden, the orchard and vineyard, windmills and pumps,
+appliances and contrivances. New edition, revised, enlarged and
+rewritten. Profusely illustrated. Over 500 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth.
+$2.00
+
+
+=Forest Planting=
+
+By H. NICHOLAS JARCHOW, LL. D. A treatise on the care of woodlands and
+the restoration of the denuded timberlands on plains and mountains. The
+author has fully described those European methods, which have proved to
+be most useful in maintaining the superb forests of the old world. This
+experience has been adapted to the different climates and trees of
+America, full instructions being given for forest planting of our
+various kinds of soil and sub-soil, whether on mountain or valley.
+Illustrated. 250 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.50
+
+
+=The Nut Culturist=
+
+By ANDREW S. FULLER. A treatise on the propagation, planting and
+cultivation of nut-bearing trees and shrubs adapted to the climate of
+the United States, with the scientific and common names of the fruits
+known in commerce as edible or otherwise useful nuts. Intended to aid
+the farmer to increase his income without adding to his expenses or
+labor. Cloth, 12mo. $1.50
+
+
+=Cranberry Culture=
+
+By JOSEPH J. WHITE. Contents: Natural history, history of cultivation,
+choice of location, preparing the ground, planting the vines, management
+of meadows, flooding, enemies and difficulties overcome, picking,
+keeping, profit and loss. Illustrated. 132 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth.
+$1.00
+
+
+=Ornamental Gardening for Americans=
+
+By ELIAS A. LONG, landscape architect. A treatise on beautifying homes,
+rural districts and cemeteries. A plain and practical work with numerous
+illustrations and instructions so plain that they may be readily
+followed. Illustrated. 390 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.50
+
+
+=Grape Culturist=
+
+By A. S. FULLER. This is one of the very best of works on the culture of
+the hardy grapes, with full directions for all departments of
+propagation, culture, etc., with 150 excellent engravings, illustrating
+planting, training, grafting, etc. 282 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.50
+
+
+=Gardening for Young and Old=
+
+By JOSEPH HARRIS. A work intended to interest farmers' boys in farm
+gardening, which means a better and more profitable form of agriculture.
+The teachings are given in the familiar manner so well known in the
+author's "Walks and Talks on the Farm." Illustrated. 191 pages. 5 x 7
+inches. Cloth. $1.00
+
+
+=Money in the Garden=
+
+By P. T. QUINN. The author gives in a plain, practical style
+instructions on three distinct, although closely connected, branches of
+gardening--the kitchen garden, market garden and field culture, from
+successful practical experience for a term of years. Illustrated. 268
+pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.00
+
+
+=Greenhouse Construction=
+
+By PROF. L. R. TAFT. A complete treatise on green-house structures and
+arrangements of the various forms and styles of plant houses for
+professional florists as well as amateurs. All the best and most
+approved structures are so fully and clearly described that any one who
+desires to build a green-house will have no difficulty in determining
+the kind best suited to his purpose. The modern and most successful
+methods of heating and ventilating are fully treated upon. Special
+chapters are devoted to houses used for the growing of one kind of
+plants exclusively. The construction of hotbeds and frames receives
+appropriate attention. Over 100 excellent illustrations, especially
+engraved for this work, make every point clear to the reader and add
+considerably to the artistic appearance of the book. 210 pages. 5 x 7
+inches. Cloth. $1.50
+
+
+=Greenhouse Management=
+
+By L. R. TAFT. This book forms an almost indispensable companion volume
+to Greenhouse Construction. In it the author gives the results of his
+many years' experience, together with that of the most successful
+florists and gardeners, in the management of growing plants under glass.
+So minute and practical are the various systems and methods of growing
+and forcing roses, violets, carnations, and all the most important
+florists' plants, as well as fruits and vegetables described, that by a
+careful study of this work and the following of its teachings, failure
+is almost impossible. Illustrated. 382 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.50
+
+
+=Fungi and Fungicides=
+
+By PROF. CLARENCE M. WEED A practical manual concerning the fungous
+diseases of cultivated plants and the means of preventing their ravages.
+The author has endeavored to give such a concise account of the most
+important facts relating to these as will enable the cultivator to
+combat them intelligently. 90 illustrations. 222 pages. 5 x 7 inches.
+Paper, 50 cents; cloth, $1.00
+
+
+=Mushrooms. How to Grow Them=
+
+By WILLIAM FALCONER. This is the most practical work on the subject ever
+written, and the only book on growing mushrooms published in America.
+The author describes how he grows mushrooms, and how they are grown for
+profit by the leading market gardeners, and for home use by the most
+successful private growers. Engravings drawn from nature expressly for
+this work. 170 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.00
+
+
+=Rural School Agriculture=
+
+By CHARLES W. DAVIS. A book intended for the use of both teachers and
+pupils. Its aim is to enlist the interest of the boys of the farm and
+awaken in their minds the fact that the problems of the farm are great
+enough to command all the brain power they can summon. The book is a
+manual of exercises covering many phases of agriculture, and it may be
+used with any text-book of agriculture, or without a text-book. The
+exercises will enable the student to think, and to work out the
+scientific principles underlying some of the most important agricultural
+operations. The author feels that in the teaching of agriculture in the
+rural schools, the laboratory phase is almost entirely neglected. If an
+experiment helps the pupil to think, or makes his conceptions clearer,
+it fills a useful purpose, and eventually prepares for successful work
+upon the farm. The successful farmer of the future must be an
+experimenter in a small way. Following many of the exercises are a
+number of questions which prepare the way for further research work. The
+material needed for performing the experiments is simple, and can be
+devised by the teacher and pupils, or brought from the homes.
+Illustrated. 300 pages. Cloth. 5 x 7 inches. $1.00
+
+
+=Agriculture Through the Laboratory and School Garden=
+
+By C. R. JACKSON and Mrs. L. S. DAUGHERTY. As its name implies, this
+book gives explicit directions for actual work in the laboratory and the
+school garden, through which agricultural principles may be taught. The
+author's aim has been to present actual experimental work in every phase
+of the subject possible, and to state the directions for such work so
+that the student can perform it independently of the teacher, and to
+state them in such a way that the results will not be suggested by these
+directions. One must perform the experiment to ascertain the result. It
+embodies in the text a comprehensive, practical, scientific, yet simple
+discussion of such facts as are necessary to the understanding of many
+of the agricultural principles involved in every-day life. The book,
+although primarily intended for use in schools, is equally valuable to
+any one desiring to obtain in an easy and pleasing manner a general
+knowledge of elementary agriculture. Fully illustrated. 5-1/2 x 8
+inches. 462 pages. Cloth. Net $1.50
+
+
+=Soil Physics Laboratory Guide=
+
+By W. G. STEVENSON and I. O. SCHAUB. A carefully outlined series of
+experiments in soil physics. A portion of the experiments outlined in
+this guide have been used quite generally in recent years. The exercises
+(of which there are 40) are listed in a logical order with reference to
+their relation to each other and the skill required on the part of the
+student. Illustrated. About 100 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $0.50
+
+
+=The New Egg Farm=
+
+By H. H. STODDARD. A practical, reliable manual on producing eggs and
+poultry for market as a profitable business enterprise, either by itself
+or connected with other branches of agriculture. It tells all about how
+to feed and manager, how to breed and select, incubators and brooders,
+its labor-saving devices, etc., etc. Illustrated. 331 pages. 5 x 7
+inches. Cloth. $1.00
+
+
+=Poultry Feeding and Fattening=
+
+Compiled by G. B. FISKE. A handbook for poultry keepers on the standard
+and improved methods of feeding and marketing all kinds of poultry. The
+subject of feeding and fattening poultry is prepared largely from the
+side of the best practice and experience here and abroad, although the
+underlying science of feeding is explained as fully as needful. The
+subject covers all branches, including chickens, broilers, capons,
+turkeys and waterfowl; how to feed under various conditions and for
+different purposes. The whole subject of capons and caponizing is
+treated in detail. A great mass of practical information and experience
+not readily obtainable elsewhere is given with full and explicit
+directions for fattening and preparing for market. This book will meet
+the needs of amateurs as well as commercial poultry raisers. Profusely
+illustrated. 160 pages. 5 x 7-1/2 inches. Cloth. $0.50
+
+
+=Poultry Architecture=
+
+Compiled by G. B. FISKE. A treatise on poultry buildings of all grades,
+styles and classes, and their proper location, coops, additions and
+special construction; all practical in design, and reasonable in cost.
+Over 100 illustrations. 125 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $0.50
+
+
+=Poultry Appliances and Handicraft=
+
+Compiled by G. B. FISKE. Illustrated description of a great variety and
+styles of the best homemade nests, roosts, windows, ventilators,
+incubators and brooders, feeding and watering appliances, etc., etc.
+Over 100 illustrations. Over 125 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $0.50
+
+
+=Turkeys and How to Grow Them=
+
+Edited by HERBERT MYRICK. A treatise on the natural history and origin
+of the name of turkeys; the various breeds, the best methods to insure
+success in the business of turkey growing. With essays from practical
+turkey growers in different parts of the United States and Canada.
+Copiously illustrated 154 pages 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.00
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Your Plants, by James Sheehan
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK YOUR PLANTS ***
+
+***** This file should be named 21442-8.txt or 21442-8.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
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+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of Your Plants, by James Sheehan.
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Your Plants, by James Sheehan
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Your Plants
+       Plain and Practical Directions for the Treatment of Tender
+              and Hardy Plants in the House and in the Garden
+
+Author: James Sheehan
+
+Release Date: May 15, 2007 [EBook #21442]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK YOUR PLANTS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Tom Roch, Janet Blenkinship and the Online
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+</pre>
+
+
+
+
+  <h1>YOUR PLANTS.</h1>
+
+  <h2>PLAIN AND PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS<br />
+  FOR THE TREATMENT OF<br />
+  TENDER AND HARDY PLANTS<br />
+  IN THE<br />
+  HOUSE AND IN THE GARDEN.</h2>
+
+  <h4>BY</h4>
+  <h3>JAMES SHEEHAN.</h3>
+
+
+  <p class="center">NEW YORK:<br />
+  ORANGE JUDD COMPANY,<br />
+  1919<br /><br />
+
+
+
+  Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1884, by the<br />
+  ORANGE JUDD COMPANY,<br />
+  In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+
+
+
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td><td align='right'>PAGE.</td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER I.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>How to Make a Lawn</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_7'><b>7</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER II.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Soil for Potting&mdash;Artificial Fertilizers</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_10'><b>10</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER III.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Selecting and Sowing Seeds</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_12'><b>12</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER IV.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Making and Planting Flower Beds</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_14'><b>14</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER V.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Watering Plants&mdash;Is Cold Water Injurious?</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_16'><b>16</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER VI.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Atmosphere and Temperature.&mdash;Insects</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_19'><b>19</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER VII.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Wintering Plants in Cellars</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_21'><b>21</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER VIII.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Law of Color in Flowers</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_22'><b>22</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER IX.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Relation of Plants to Health</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_23'><b>23</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER X.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Layering</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_25'><b>25</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER XI.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Propagation of Plants from Cuttings</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_26'><b>26</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER XII.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Grafting</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_29'><b>29</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER XIII.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Hanging Baskets, Wardian Cases and Jardinieres</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_31'><b>31</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER XIV.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Aquatics&mdash;Water Lilies</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_35'><b>35</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER XV.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Hardy Climbing Vines.&mdash;Ivies</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_37'><b>37</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER XVI.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Annual Flowering Plants&mdash;Pansy Culture</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_39'><b>39</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER XVII.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Fall or Holland Bulbs</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_42'><b>42</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER XVIII.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Tropical Bulbs.&mdash;Tuberoses</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_44'><b>44</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER XIX.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Roses, Cultivation, and Propagating</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_46'><b>46</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER XX.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Japan and other Lilies.&mdash;Calla Lilies</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_50'><b>50</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER XXI.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Geraniums, the Best Twelve Sorts</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_53'><b>53</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER XXII.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Azaleas; How to Cultivate Them</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_53'><b>53</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER XXIII.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Camellias.&mdash;Orange and Lemon Trees</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_55'><b>55</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER XXIV.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Fuchsias, Training and Management</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_57'><b>57</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER XXV.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cactuses&mdash;Night Blooming Cereus.&mdash;Rex Begonias</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_59'><b>59</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER XXVI.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Rockeries&mdash;How to Make Them</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_62'><b>62</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER XXVII.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Budding</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_64'><b>64</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER XXVIII.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Pruning</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_68'><b>68</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER XXIX.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Miscellaneous Notes</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_72'><b>72</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAPTER XXX.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Sentiment and Language of Flowers</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_76'><b>76</b></a></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="INTRODUCTION" id="INTRODUCTION"></a>INTRODUCTION.</h2>
+
+
+<p>In the winter of the year 1880, while the author was in attendance upon
+a large horticultural meeting in a neighboring city, which was attended
+by nearly all the leading florists and nurserymen in Western New York,
+the idea of writing this work was first suggested to him.</p>
+
+<p>An intelligent lady, present at that meeting, widely known for her skill
+and success as an amateur florist, in conversation with the writer made
+the following remarks: "I have in my library at least a dozen different
+works on floriculture, some of them costly, all of which I have read
+over and over again, often having to pore over a large volume of almost
+useless matter, in order to find information on some points I was
+looking for.</p>
+
+<p>"It has occurred to me that some one ought to write a work on flowers,
+for the use of amateurs, that would contain in a brief space all the
+requisite information ordinarily needed by those who cultivate flowers
+in and about their homes. I predict that such a work could not fail to
+meet and merit a general demand."</p>
+
+<p>In writing this little volume, I have earnestly endeavored to carry out,
+as near as I could, the above suggestions. How far I have succeeded in
+accomplishing this end, my readers must judge.</p>
+
+<p>I trust that "Your Plants" will be useful and instructive in the field
+it was designed to occupy&mdash;that of a help to amateurs in the successful
+cultivation of plants and flowers in the house and garden.</p>
+
+
+  <p class="author">James Sheehan.</p>
+  <p><span style="margin-left: 2em;"><i>Geneva, N. Y., October, 1884.</i></span></p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h1><br /><br />YOUR PLANTS.<br /><br /></h1>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I.</h2>
+
+<h3>HOW TO MAKE A LAWN.</h3>
+
+
+<p>A smooth lawn is a great attraction of itself, even if there is not a
+tree or shrub upon it. When it is once made, a lawn is easily kept in
+order, yet we seldom see a good one. There are three things to be taken
+into consideration in securing a fine lawn. First, location; Second,
+quality of the soil; Third, the kinds of seed to be sown.</p>
+
+
+<h3>LOCATION.</h3>
+
+<p>This is the most important matter relating to a good lawn. In selecting
+a site upon which to build, not the least consideration should be the
+possibility of having a fine lawn, one that will cost as little as
+possible to keep in a nice and attractive condition. The nearer level
+the land is, the better. If a house is built on an elevation back from
+the road, a sloping lawn has a good effect. Where the land is rolling
+and hilly, it should be graded into successive terraces, which, though
+rather expensive, will look well. Low lands should be avoided as much as
+possible in selecting a site on which it is intended to make a good
+lawn. Low land can be improved by thorough under-drainage. If the land
+is wet on which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> we design making a lawn, we should first thoroughly
+underdrain it by laying tiles two rods apart, and two feet below the
+surface. Large-growing trees should never be planted on the lawn, grass
+will not thrive under them. Fruit trees, like the apple, cherry, and
+peach, are exceedingly out of place on a fine lawn. The finest yard we
+ever saw had not a tree on it that exceeded ten feet in hight. Flowering
+shrubs, low-growing evergreens, a few weeping and deciduous trees of
+moderate size, with flower-beds neatly planted, make an attractive
+door-yard.</p>
+
+
+<h3>SOIL.</h3>
+
+<p>This is the mother of all vegetation. Nothing, not even grass, will
+flourish on a poor soil. The quality of the soil varies in different
+localities. We often find a fine sward on a stiff clay soil, and also on
+a light gravelly one. The soil best adapted to the growth of a good
+sward, is a sandy loam with a gravelly bottom. In making new lawns,
+there is sometimes more or less grading to be done, and often where a
+knoll has been cut off the sub-soil is exposed, and it will not do to
+sow the seed upon these patches until the spots have been thoroughly
+covered with manure which is to be worked in. If a new lawn of any
+extent is to be made, it should first be plowed deep, and if uneven and
+hilly, grade it to a level surface. The surface should have a heavy
+dressing of manure, which should be lightly plowed under, and then the
+surface should be dragged several times until fine, and then rolled with
+a heavy roller. The seed may now be sown, after which it should be
+rolled again. The spring is the best time to do this work, although if
+the fall be dry, it will answer nearly as well to do it at that time.
+The dryer the ground in preparing it for the seed, and for the sowing of
+the same, the better. In preparing a small plot of ground for a lawn,
+the spade, hand-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span>rake, and small roller may be used in place of the
+larger implements.</p>
+
+
+<h3>SEED.</h3>
+
+<p>Much difficulty is often experienced in obtaining a good mixture of
+grass seed for the lawn, and different mixtures are recommended and sold
+for sowing lawns, some of which are entirely worthless. Great pains
+should be taken to have nothing but first-class seeds, which should be
+obtained direct of some responsible dealer. The finest sward we ever saw
+was made from the following mixture:</p>
+
+
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" width="40%" summary="The finest sward we ever saw
+was made from the following mixture:">
+<tr><td align='right'>10</td><td align='left'>quarts</td><td align='left'>Rhode Island Bent-grass.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>4</td><td align='left'>quarts</td><td align='left'>White Clover.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>8</td><td align='left'>quarts</td><td align='left'>Kentucky Blue-grass.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>6</td><td align='left'>quarts</td><td align='left'>Red-top Grass.</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+<p>Sow at the rate of six bushels to the acre. Grass seed can be sown in
+the fall any time from the first of October to the first of December. If
+the seed be sound, a good sward may be expected the following summer,
+and a good turf may be expected from spring sown seeds if the season is
+not too dry. The dryer the ground is when the seeds are sown, the
+better. To keep the lawn in a flourishing condition, fresh and green all
+summer, it will need a top-dressing of well-rotted manure applied in the
+fall, at least once every two years. Grass roots derive their
+nourishment close to the surface, hence the great advantage of
+top-dressing. In some localities where the frost "heaves" the sod to any
+extent during the winter, it will be advantageous to roll it down in the
+spring with a heavy roller, doing it just after a heavy rain. When the
+ground is soft and pliable, this will make the surface smooth, and in
+proper condition for the lawn-mower to pass over it.</p>
+
+<p>Frequent mowing will thicken the sward. It is not necessary to sow oats,
+as some do, to shade the ground until the seeds have started, that is an
+"old fogy" notion, and is now obsolete.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2>
+
+<h3>SOIL FOR POTTING.&mdash;ARTIFICIAL FERTILIZERS.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Good, fresh, rich soil, is an element that is indispensable to the
+growth of healthy, vigorous plants. A plant cannot be thrifty if grown
+in soil that has become musty and stale with long continued use; it must
+have fresh soil, at least once a year.</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps the best soil for general potting purposes, and the kind most
+extensively used by florists, is a mixture of equal parts of decayed
+sods, and well-rotted stable manure, and occasionally, especially if the
+sod is clayey, a little sand is added. The sods for this purpose may be
+obtained from along the road-side, almost anywhere, while good stable
+manure is always readily obtainable. Select some out-of-the-way place in
+the lot, or garden, and gather the sods in quantity proportioned to the
+amount of potting to be done. Lay down a course of the sods, and on top
+of this, an equal course of well-rotted manure, and so on, alternately,
+until the heap is finished; the last layer being sod. This heap should
+be turned over carefully, two or three times a year, breaking up the
+sods finely with a spade, or fork. The whole mass will become thoroughly
+mixed, rotted, and fit for use in a year from the time the heap was
+made. For those who have a large number of plants, we think it will pay
+to adopt this method of preparing soil for them, instead of purchasing
+it of the florist at twenty-five cents or more per bushel. Some florists
+sport a great variety of different soils, which are used in the growing
+of plants of different natures, requiring, as they claim, particular
+kinds of soil.</p>
+
+<p>Whatever of truth, if any, there is in this view, it has never been
+demonstrated to our mind. All kinds of plants<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> have a common requirement
+in respect to soil, and the differences in growth of various species is
+attributable to climate and other causes than that of soil. At least
+that has been our experience.</p>
+
+
+<h3>ARTIFICIAL FERTILIZERS.</h3>
+
+<p>This question is frequently asked! Do you recommend the use of
+artificial fertilizers for house plants, and does it benefit them? I
+invariably answer yes, if used judiciously. The use of good special
+fertilizers will help the growth of some kinds of plants, which, without
+such aid, would scarcely meet our expectations. The term artificial
+fertilizers, applies to all manurial applications, save those produced
+by domestic animals.</p>
+
+<p>I have always believed, however, that when any fertilizer is needed,
+good, well-rotted stable-manure should have the preference over all
+artificial fertilizers. Where this manure cannot be readily obtained, or
+used conveniently, then special fertilizers can be employed as
+substitutes with good results. In applying manure in the liquid form to
+plants, use an ounce of guano to every gallon of water, and apply it to
+those plants that are in a healthy growing condition, about once every
+two weeks. It is a mistake to try to stimulate into growth, by the use
+of fertilizers, those plants which give every indication of being sickly
+or stunted; they will make such a plant sicker, if they do not kill it
+outright. If guano is used in potting soil, it should be in the
+proportion of one pound to every bushel of soil.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2>
+
+<h3>SELECTING AND SOWING SEEDS.</h3>
+
+
+<p>All individuals of the vegetable world are so created as to reproduce
+themselves from seed or its equivalent. Every plant that grows seems to
+possess the power to perpetuate its kind. All kinds of flowering plants
+can be grown from the seed, providing good, sound seeds are obtained,
+and they are placed under the proper influences to make them germinate
+and grow.</p>
+
+<p>The amateur cultivator has many difficulties to contend with in raising
+plants from seed. Some times it is difficult to obtain pure, sound
+seeds, but these should always be secured if possible, taking great
+pains in selecting varieties, and in obtaining them of some reliable
+dealer. If we sow seeds, and they fail to germinate, our first thought
+is to censure the dealer or raiser of the seed for lack of integrity in
+his business, while in reality the fault may be our own, and due to
+careless sowing.</p>
+
+<p>Those who raise seed for the market take great pains to produce none but
+good, sound seeds, and in nine cases out of ten, where seeds fail to
+germinate and grow, the fault is with those who sow them, and not on
+account of poor quality of seed. This we know from experience.</p>
+
+<p>Three things are absolutely essential in the sowing of seeds, in order
+to have that success which we all desire to attain:</p>
+
+<p>First; care should be taken to obtain fresh, pure seeds, without which
+all our after work with them will be in vain.</p>
+
+<p>Second; the soil in which to sow them should be a fine, mellow loam,
+free from stones and other coarse materials.</p>
+
+<p>Thirdly; sowing the seed. The general custom is to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> sow in drills. The
+depth at which seeds should be sown must of course be regulated
+according to their fineness, or coarseness.</p>
+
+<p>Seeds that are exceptionally fine, like those of Lobelias, Petunias,
+Ferns, and other very tiny seeds, ought never to be covered deeper than
+the sixteenth of an inch, with very fine soil sifted on them through a
+fine sieve; the soil should then be lightly patted down with the back of
+a shovel. This will prevent the seeds from shriveling before they start
+to germinate.</p>
+
+<p>Seeds like those of the Pansy, Verbena, etc., require a covering of a
+quarter to a half inch of soil, while those like the Nasturtium,
+Ricinus, etc., may be covered to the depth of an inch.</p>
+
+<p>The regular florist has facilities for raising plants from seed that
+most amateurs do not possess, but we will give a few suggestions that
+will enable those who desire to start their own plants, to do it
+successfully by the aid of the directions here given.</p>
+
+<p>A cheap and simple method is, to take four plain boards, of an equal
+length, say three feet long, and ten inches deep, and nail together to
+form a square frame. Then place this frame upon a bed of rich soil,
+prepared for the purpose in some sheltered, warm spot. The bed should be
+just wide enough to be enclosed within the frame. Within this enclosure
+sow your seeds, and cover with a glass sash. Seeds can be started in
+March in this frame, and afford plants for setting out in April and May.</p>
+
+<p>A bank of earth, or manure, may be thrown around the outside of the
+frame to keep it snug and warm. After sowing the seed in this frame,
+shade it for four or five days by placing a cloth over the sash, this
+will prevent too much heat and light until the seeds have commenced to
+germinate, after which it can be removed without injury.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2>
+
+<h3>MAKING AND PLANTING FLOWER-BEDS.</h3>
+
+
+<p>People of the present day can scarcely be contented with tall, waving
+timothy in the front door-yard, and the rickety board-fence that
+enclosed a scene of almost primitive rusticity&mdash;the state of things in
+our "forefathers' days."</p>
+
+<p>In place of the timothy growing to hay in the front yard, we now see
+fine, smoothly-cut lawns of refreshing greenness; and fences of pickets,
+wire, and rustic iron, have supplanted the ancient board fences. In
+place of the tall-growing Sunflower and Hollyhock that sprung up here
+and there at random, we now see beds of choice and beautiful flowers
+artistically arranged and carefully cultivated by loving hands.</p>
+
+<p>All is system now about the door-yard and premises, where once were
+neglect and confusion.</p>
+
+<p>Every home should have one or more beds planted with attractive flowers.
+It would be a difficult matter to give specific instructions as to
+planting these beds, as every one has his own peculiar tastes in such
+matters, which is sometimes governed by surroundings, locality, etc.</p>
+
+<p>There are some general rules however, observed by gardeners in planting
+flower-beds that it would be well to observe.</p>
+
+<p>The following notes on planting flower-beds were handed us some time
+ago. We do not know the name of the writer, but have strong reason to
+believe them to be from the pen of the late James Vick.</p>
+
+<p>"There are a great variety of opinions as regards the most effective way
+of planting flower-beds. Some prefer to mix plants of different colors
+and varieties, others prefer the ribbon-style of planting, now so
+generally in use<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> in Europe. If the promiscuous style is adopted, care
+should be taken to dispose the plants in the beds, so that the tallest
+will be at the back of the bed; if the leader is against a wall or
+background of shrubbery, the others should graduate to the front,
+according to the hight. In open beds, on the lawn, the tallest plants
+should be in the centre, the others grading down to the front, on all
+sides, interspersing the colors so as to form the most effective
+contrast in shades.</p>
+
+<p>"But for grand effect, nothing, in our estimation, can ever be obtained
+in promiscuous planting, to equal that resulting from planting in
+masses, or ribbon lines. In Europe lawns are cut so as to resemble rich,
+green velvet; on these the flower-beds are laid out in every style one
+can conceive of; some are planted in masses of blue, yellow, crimson,
+white, etc., separate beds of each harmoniously blended on the carpeting
+of green.</p>
+
+<p>"Then again, the ribbon-style is used in large beds, in forms so various
+that allusion can here be made to only a few of the most conspicuous. In
+a circular bed, say twenty feet in diameter, the bordering can be made
+of blue Lobelia, attaining a hight of six inches; next plant Mrs.
+Pollock Geranium, or Bijou Zonal Geraniums, growing about nine inches
+high. If you plant Mrs. Pollock, on the next row to it plant Mountain of
+Snow (silvered-leaved geranium), next a circle of Red Achyranthes; there
+are several varieties of this plant. Next Centaurea candidissima (Dusty
+Miller); the centre being a mound of Scarlet Salvias.</p>
+
+<p>"Narrow beds along the margins of walks can be formed of low-growing
+plants, such as the White Lobelia, Gypsophila, or Silvered Alyssum, for
+the front line, followed next by the Tom Thumb Trop&aelig;olum; then as a
+centre, or third line, Fuchsia Golden Fleece; as a second margined-line
+on the other side, Silver-leaved Geraniums with scarlet flowers,
+followed by a line of blue Lobelia.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Shaded stars have a fine effect on a lawn; cut a star and plant it with
+either Verbenas, Petunias, Phlox Drummondii, or Portulaca. The ends of
+the stars should be white, and shaded to the centre."</p>
+
+<p>A whole volume might be written on the subject of gardening, without
+exhausting its variety or interest, but we take it for granted that our
+readers will exercise their own tastes, or call on some competent
+gardener to give advice in the premises.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2>
+
+<h3>WATERING PLANTS.&mdash;IS COLD WATER INJURIOUS?</h3>
+
+
+<p>Probably the most important matter to be observed in growing
+house-plants is that of watering them. The cultivator should know just
+when to water, and to give it where it will do the most good. Amateur
+florists often exhibit much poor judgment in watering. It is the habit
+of some to keep the soil about their plants constantly soaked with
+water, and they wonder why they are not thrifty or healthy. These
+cultivators do not stop to consider that such treatment is unnatural,
+and will have an effect contrary to what is desired. There are those who
+resort to the opposite extreme, and keep their plants all the time in a
+perishing condition of dryness, which is even worse than if they were
+watered to death. If we will observe how judiciously Nature distributes
+the sunshine and shadow, the periodical rains, and the refreshing dews,
+we will learn an important lesson. A pot, or other receptacle in which
+plants are grown, should be porous; glazed, or painted pots, ought never
+to be used, where plain, unglazed pots can be obtained; all non-porous
+pots of tin and similar material, should be discarded.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> Plants growing
+in them can never compare in health with those that have the advantage
+of plain porous pots. There should be a hole of sufficient size in the
+bottom of each pot, to allow the water to drain off, and to pass away as
+soon as possible. Placing a few pieces of broken crocks, or charcoal, in
+the bottom of the pots will facilitate a rapid drainage, as good
+drainage is essential to the growth of strong, and healthy plants. When
+plants require water, it will be indicated by a light, dry appearance of
+the top of the soil, and if watered when in this condition, it will do
+the most good. Give water only when in this condition, and then
+copiously, giving them all they will soak up at the time, then withhold
+water until the same indication of their want of it again appears, then
+apply it freely. Unless plants are in a very dry atmosphere, as in a
+warm parlor in winter, they will seldom require watering. In summer they
+should be closely watched, and if exposed to wind and sun, they will
+require daily watering, to keep them in a flourishing state. When plants
+are suffering from drouth, it will be indicated by the drooping of the
+leaves, and they will frequently turn yellow, and drop off prematurely;
+this can be avoided by timely attention each day.</p>
+
+<p>In summer, watering in the cool of the evening will be followed by the
+best results, for it will give the plants time to take up and assimilate
+the moisture necessary to their life, and being completely charged with
+water, they will be prepared for the hot sun and drying winds of the
+following day.</p>
+
+
+<h3>IS COLD WATER INJURIOUS TO PLANTS?</h3>
+
+<p>Those who study works on horticulture by different writers, will
+discover many opposing views in respect to the modes of caring for, and
+the treatment of plants. The proper temperature for water when applied
+to plants,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> has been frequently discussed by different writers; some
+contend that cool water, just drawn from a well or cistern, should never
+be showered upon plants, but that it should first be heated to the
+temperature of the room in which the plants are standing. Others, with
+equal zeal, claim that cold water will not injure the plants in the
+least, contending that the water will assume the right temperature
+before injury is done the plant. Now which is right? We have
+experimented in this matter to a considerable extent, in order to
+satisfy ourselves as to which of these two views is correct. In the
+month of December I took from my collection twelve large geraniums and
+placed them by themselves in the conservatory; six of these I watered
+with cold water, drawn from a hydrant pipe at the temperature of 45&deg;,
+and the other six were supplied with water from a barrel standing in the
+conservatory, and was of the same temperature of the house, that is from
+60&deg; to 80&deg;. The plants watered with the cold water gave little if any
+bloom throughout the winter, while the six watered from the barrel grew
+finely, and bloomed profusely.</p>
+
+<p>Always water your plants in winter time with lukewarm water, if you
+would have a profusion of flowers, and thrifty-growing plants. The water
+should be of the same temperature as the room or place where the plants
+are. There is no theory about it, it is a practical fact, all talk to
+the contrary notwithstanding.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2>
+
+<h3>ATMOSPHERE AND TEMPERATURE.&mdash;INSECTS.</h3>
+
+
+<p>The proper regulation of the atmosphere as to moisture and temperature,
+is one of the most important points to be observed in cultivating plants
+in the parlor, or window-garden. Plants will not flourish, bloom, and be
+healthy, in a dry, dusty atmosphere, even though the best of care
+otherwise may be bestowed upon them; hence it is that those who attempt
+to raise plants in their dwellings meet with so little success. There is
+an immense contrast between the atmosphere of a well regulated
+green-house and that of an ordinary dwelling. In the green-house, the
+atmosphere is moist and well-tempered to the healthful growth of plants;
+while that of the parlor or sitting-room is invariably dry and dusty,
+and plants will not flourish in it as they would in the conservatory. If
+the dwelling be heated by coal, there is more or less gas constantly
+discharged into the air of the room, which is of itself enough to
+destroy vegetation, or make it sickly. Houses heated by steam, are
+better adapted to the cultivation of plants.</p>
+
+<p>All plants will not flourish in the common temperature of a living-room;
+some require a low temperature, and others need a warmer one. The
+following plants require a temperature of from 70&deg; to 80&deg; in the
+day-time, and 55&deg; to 60&deg; at night Begonias, Coleuses, Calceolarias,
+Bouvardias, Ferns (tropical), Hibiscuses, Poinsettias, Tuberoses,
+Heliotropes, Crotons, Hoyas, Cactuses, all kinds, Caladiums, Cannas,
+Palms, Orange and Lemon Trees, Geraniums, etc.</p>
+
+<p>The following will do well in an atmosphere ranging from 50&deg; to 60&deg; by
+day, and 40&deg; to 45&deg; by night: Camellias, Azaleas, Oleanders, Roses,
+Carnations, Callas,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> Ivies, Abutilons, Jessamines, Holland-bulbs,
+Lily-of-the-Valley, Primroses, Violets, Verbenas, Chrysanthemums, etc.
+Plants will flourish better in the kitchen, where the steam and moisture
+from cooking are constantly arising, and tempering the atmosphere, than
+in a dry, dusty sitting-room; hence it is that we find "Bridget"
+sometimes cultivating a few plants in her kitchen window, that are
+envied by the mistress of the house, because they are so much finer than
+those in her parlor or sitting-room.</p>
+
+<p>If a pan of water is set upon a stove in a room where plants are
+growing, it will help to materially relieve the dryness of the
+atmosphere. But most all kinds of house-plants will do fairly in a
+uniform temperature, from 70&deg; by day to 55&deg; by night. Careful
+observation of the habits and requirements of different kinds of plants,
+as they come under our care, will greatly assist the cultivator, and in
+a short time he will be so conversant with their various habits as to
+know just how to properly treat each and every plant in his collection.</p>
+
+
+<h3>INSECTS UPON PLANTS.</h3>
+
+<p>The little green insects so frequently seen on house-plants, are called
+aphis (plural aphides), plant-lice, or green-fly. They feed upon the
+tender growth of plants, especially the new leaves, and will rapidly sap
+and destroy the life of any plant if allowed to remain undisturbed. In
+the spring these insects abound in great numbers on the plants in
+green-houses and parlors, or wherever they may be growing, and the
+remedy should be promptly applied. The greatest enemy to the green-fly
+is tobacco smoke, made by burning the stems, the refuse of the
+cigar-maker's shops; allowing the smoke to circulate among the leaves to
+which the insects are attached, will readily exterminate them. Place the
+infested plant under a barrel, an ordinary cracker barrel will do, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>
+put under it a pan of burning tobacco, slightly moistened with water.
+Leave the plant in the smoke for fifteen or twenty minutes, after which
+remove it. If one "smoking" fails to destroy the insects, repeat the
+dose three or four times, once each day, until they are completely
+exterminated.</p>
+
+<p>A strong solution, or "tea," made from soaking tobacco stems in water,
+and syringing the same over the plants, will effectually destroy the
+little pests, and not injure the plant in the operation.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h2>
+
+<h3>WINTERING PLANTS IN CELLARS.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Many plants, such as Agaves (Century Plants), Oleanders, large Cactuses,
+etc., that have grown too large to be accommodated in the sitting-room
+or conservatory; can be successfully wintered in any moderately dry,
+frost-proof cellar. After placing these large plants in the cellar, it
+will not be necessary to give them any water, the object being to keep
+them dormant all winter, which can be done by keeping the soil as dry as
+possible, but not so dry as to allow the plants to shrivel, or become
+withered. Large plants of the kinds mentioned, often form desirable
+ornaments during the summer time, but it is impracticable, in most
+cases, to bring them into the house in winter, but they can be kept for
+years by cellaring through the winter as stated. Large Geraniums, Salvia
+and Heliotrope roots, and even Tea Roses, and Carnations, can be kept
+moderately well in the cellar by trenching them in dry, or moderately
+moist sand. Thus many choice specimens of these plants that we are loth
+to pull up and threw away when winter approaches, can<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> be successfully
+kept over until the next season. It is a needless expense to purchase a
+stock of new plants for the garden every year, when we can winter many
+of the old ones in this simple and inexpensive manner. The leaves of all
+deciduous plants should be removed before they are put away in this
+manner. The foliage should remain on the Oleanders and Carnations.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2>
+
+<h3>THE LAW OF COLOR IN FLOWERS.</h3>
+
+
+<p>The public are so often duped by a set of travelling frauds, who make it
+their business to represent themselves as being the sole proprietor or
+agent of some "wonderful" kinds of plants, bulbs, or seeds, which
+possess the virtue of being remarkably distinct from anything ever seen
+or heard of before, that many over-credulous ladies or gentlemen fall
+victims to the unprincipled sharks. Did you ever see any one who could
+sell rose bushes that would certainly bear blue roses, or plants of the
+Verbena that produce yellow blossoms, or Tuberose bulbs bearing scarlet
+flowers? If you have not, you have something to learn, and many have
+paid dearly for experiences of this kind.</p>
+
+<p>There is a natural law of color in flowers, that the varieties of a
+species invariably present a certain range of colors. To attempt to
+introduce a new and distinct color, as for example a blue rose, into a
+family where the colors are always white, red, and yellow, is an
+impossibility, and any one who claims to do this, may be set down as a
+swindler.</p>
+
+<p>Much credit is due Mr. Peter Henderson, an eminent florist and seedsman
+of New York City, for the vigorous<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> methods employed by him in exposing
+frauds of this kind, whenever his attention has been called to them. We
+quote from an article written by Mr. Henderson on this subject, some
+years ago: "It has long been known among the best observers of such
+matters, that in certain families of plants, particular colors prevail,
+and that in no single instance can we ever expect to see blue, yellow,
+and scarlet colors in varieties of the same species. If any one at all
+conversant with plants, will bring any family of them to mind, it will
+at once be seen how undeviating is this law. In the Dahlia we have
+scarlet and yellow, but no approach to the blue, so in the Rose,
+Hollyhock, etc. Again in the Verbena and Salvia, we have scarlet and
+blue, but no yellow. If we reflect, it will be seen that there is
+nothing out of the order of nature in this arrangement; why then should
+we expect nature to step outside of what seems to be her fixed laws, and
+give us a blue rose, etc." A word to the wise, we take it, is sufficient
+in view of the foregoing facts.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2>
+
+<h3>THE RELATION OF PLANTS TO HEALTH.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Plants at present are more generally cultivated in-doors than formerly,
+and they may be seen in almost every home. The cultivation of plants in
+dwellings is decidedly a modern custom&mdash;at least to the extent to which
+it is now practised. One who now contemplates building a dwelling house,
+plans to have included with the other conveniences of a first-class
+home, a suitable window for house plants. As the cultivation of plants
+in dwelling houses increases, the question is raised by some: "Are not
+plants injurious to health, if growing in the apart<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span>ments in which we
+live and sleep?" We know of persons who would not sleep in a room in
+which a number of plants were growing, giving as the reason that the
+amount of carbonic acid gas given off by the plants, is detrimental to
+health. Now this view is either true or it is not true. We have made a
+particular study of this matter, and speak from experience. Over ten
+years of my life had been spent in the green-house, among all kinds of
+plants; I have frequently slept all night among them, and I have never
+observed it to be in any way detrimental to my health, but, on the
+contrary, I have never felt better than when among plants. Gardeners, as
+a class, those who have spent their lives among plants, show, so far as
+we have observed, a longevity equal to, if not exceeding that of any
+other class who are engaged in any of the vocations usually regarded as
+healthy. We must admit, however, that we have never known of a case of
+chronic rheumatism to be benefited in the least by working in
+hot-houses, on account of the perpetual dampness of the air. On the
+other hand, we know of a number of persons afflicted with various other
+diseases, who have been noticeably benefited by working among plants:
+perhaps it was owing to the health-giving bodily exercise required by
+the work, rather than the supposed health-giving effects of the plants
+themselves; we think the result was due to both. An eminent physician
+cites a case in which his sister, aged fifty years, was afflicted with
+tubercular consumption, her death, as the natural result of such a
+terrible disease being expected at any time, but being an ardent lover
+of plants and flowers, she was daily accustomed to move among her
+plants, of which she possessed a large number, in her sleeping room as
+well as many others in beds outside. Her friends reproved her for
+sleeping in the same room with her plants; but the years came and went,
+and she was still found moving among her flowers in her eightieth year,
+surviving those,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> who many years before predicted her immediate demise,
+as the result of her imprudence. Who will say but what the exhalation
+from her numerous plants increasing the humidity of the atmosphere in
+which she lived, prolonged her life? The above is but one of many cases,
+in which tubercular consumption has been arrested and sometimes wholly
+cured by the sanitary effects produced by working among plants for a
+considerable time. We know of cases in which druggists, ministers, and
+students from school, compelled to relinquish their chosen vocations on
+account of failing health, have resorted to the nursery or hot-house. In
+almost every case restoration to vigorous health was the result.</p>
+
+<p>We contend, therefore, that this old superstition that house plants are
+injurious to health, is nothing but a myth. The amount of carbonic acid
+gas at night discharged from two dozen large plants, will not equal that
+exhaled by one infant sleeper, as has been demonstrated by scientific
+men. Because a few old cronies stick to the absurdity that "plants are
+awful sickenin' things," it is no reason why sensible people should be
+at all alarmed by it.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2>
+
+<h3>LAYERING.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Layering is a simple method by which plants may be multiplied. Moss
+Roses, nearly all kinds of hardy vines, like the Wistaria, Clematis,
+Honeysuckle, Ivy, and many others, are easily multiplied in this manner,
+together with most of our hardy shrubs. Many of our tenderer plants like
+Chrysanthemums, Verbenas, Heliotropes, etc., layer finely, by first
+bending the branches down to the ground, and partially covering them
+with sand or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> soil. Pots may be plunged in the ground so that the limbs
+will not require to be bent much in layering them. In layering
+hard-wooded plants like the Rose or Clematis, it is customary to cut a
+slight gash on the underside of each limb to be laid down, just cutting
+inside of the bark; this will arrest the flow of sap, and new roots will
+form at this point. Where vines are layered, such as the Grape, a simple
+twisting of the vine until the bark is cracked, will answer in place of
+cutting, and we believe it is just as well. It should be understood,
+however, that in layering, the entire shoot is not to be covered; a good
+portion of the tip of the shoot should be in sight, and only the middle
+of the branch be under ground, and securely fastened down by means of a
+peg. All layering should be done while the wood is young; just ripe
+enough to bend without snapping off, and all hardy vines and shrubs are
+in condition to layer from the first to the middle of June. For tender
+plants any month during the summer will answer for the operation. Most
+tender plants will root in a month or six weeks. Examine the layers in
+the fall, and if rooted, remove them; if not, they should remain
+undisturbed for another season.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2>
+
+<h3>PROPAGATION OF PLANTS FROM CUTTINGS.</h3>
+
+
+<p>In the propagation of plants from cuttings or otherwise, the amateur,
+with limited facilities, of course cannot compete with the trained and
+experienced propagator, who makes the rearing of plants his business,
+devoting his whole attention to that special branch. Many men have
+devoted the greater part of a lifetime to experiment and study, as to
+the best and most practicable<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> methods for the successful propagation of
+plants. There are, however, common and ordinary methods for propagating
+plants from cuttings, that the most inexperienced can practice with a
+measure of success. All florists root their cuttings in sand, and that
+obtained from the beach of some fresh water lake is the best for the
+purpose, being free from gravel and clay, and will not hold water long.
+If lake sand cannot be easily obtained, common building sand will answer
+by thoroughly washing it with several waters to free it from clay, etc.
+I can recommend to the reader no more simple and practical method of
+propagating plants on a small scale, than the following, from the pen of
+an experienced florist, which expresses my own views exactly:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"Take a pan, or dish, at least three inches deep&mdash;the circumference
+of which may be as large as you wish, fill to within one half inch
+of the top with sand. The cuttings are to be inserted in the sand,
+which is made very wet, of the consistency of mud. The pan should
+then be placed on the window case, where it will receive the full
+light of the sun, which will not injure the cuttings in the least,
+providing the sand is kept constantly wet, being careful to never
+allow it to become dry for a moment, otherwise the plants will be
+lost.</p>
+
+<p>"'Is there no drainage from the pan necessary?' none, the
+atmosphere will evaporate the water fast enough to prevent any
+stagnation during the brief time required for the cuttings to take
+root."</p></div>
+
+<p>Success in propagating in this way, depends altogether upon keeping the
+sand wet like mud until the cuttings in it are "struck" or rooted, and
+this may be easily determined&mdash;with the hand gently try to lift the
+cutting, you will know if it is rooted by the hold maintained on the
+sand, if not, it will come out. A little experience in feeling with the
+hand in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> this way, will enable you to readily determine whether the
+cutting is rooted or not.</p>
+
+<p>I have no doubt that the following table, which I have carefully
+prepared from my own extensive experience in regard to length of time
+required by different plants to take root from cuttings, will be of
+interest to all who desire to propagate plants in this manner. I am
+supposing now, in the following table, that all the conditions and
+facilities are such as are generally found in a first-class propagating
+house, with bottom heat, etc.:</p>
+
+
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" width="50%" cellspacing="0" summary="the conditions and
+facilities are such as are generally found in a first-class propagating
+house">
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td><td align='center' colspan="3"><i>Days.</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ageratums</td><td align='right'>6</td><td align='center'>to</td><td align='right'>8</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Amaranthus</td><td align='right'>6</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>8</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Alyssum</td><td align='right'>10</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>12</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Abutilon</td><td align='right'>12</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Azalea</td><td align='right'>60</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>90</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Begonias</td><td align='right'>12</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bouvardias</td><td align='right'>20</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>30</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Clematis</td><td align='right'>30</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>40</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Carnations</td><td align='right'>20</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>30</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cuphea (cigar plant)</td><td align='right'>6</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>8</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Chrysanthemums</td><td align='right'>12</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Centaurea</td><td align='right'>30</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>40</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Coleus (all kinds)</td><td align='right'>6</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>8</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Dahlias</td><td align='right'>15</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Eupatoriums</td><td align='right'>15</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Echeverias</td><td align='right'>30</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>40</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Geraniums</td><td align='right'>12</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Hibiscus</td><td align='right'>20</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>30</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Heliotrope</td><td align='right'>12</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Lobelia</td><td align='right'>12</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Lantanas</td><td align='right'>12</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Lavender</td><td align='right'>20</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>30</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Mignonette</td><td align='right'>15</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Myosotis</td><td align='right'>12</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Nasturtium</td><td align='right'>10</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>12</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Primroses</td><td align='right'>30</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>40</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Pyrethrums</td><td align='right'>15</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Poinsettia</td><td align='right'>30</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>40</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Petunias</td><td align='right'>20</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>30</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Roses</td><td align='right'>30</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>40</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Oleander</td><td align='right'>30</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>40</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Verbenas</td><td align='right'>6</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>8</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Vinca</td><td align='right'>12</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>All hardy shrubs, taken when the wood is green and young, may be
+propagated in like manner. The summer is the time to take off the wood
+for such cuttings.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2>
+
+<h3>GRAFTING.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Grafting is a simple art, that both old and young should become
+acquainted with and be able to perform. In my garden there had stood,
+for a number of years, away in a corner by itself, a wild apple tree,
+which had sprung up from the seed; it always bore fruit, but of a
+worthless character, so sour and insipid that even the swine refused to
+devour it when it was thrown to them. I became tired of seeing this
+tree, and resolved to change its nature. I went to work, being a
+nurseryman, and procured cions of ten or a dozen different sorts of
+apple trees, and took the first favorable opportunity in the spring to
+graft my old and useless apple tree. When I had finished grafting, I
+found that I had inserted here and there on the different branches,
+fifty cions, all of which, with the exception of three, lived, grew,
+bore fruit, each "after its own kind," Baldwins, Greenings,
+Gravensteins, Spitzenbergs, etc., and it is now the most desirable tree
+in the garden; I completely transformed the nature of the tree. Any one
+who understands grafting can do the same thing. Apple, Pear, Plum, and
+Cherry trees can be successfully top-grafted in the manner spoken of
+above, and the month of April is the best time to perform the operation.
+The outfit necessary to perform the operation of grafting is a small
+hand-saw, a hatchet, a wedge, grafting-knife, and wax to cover the
+wound.</p>
+
+<p>If the tree be a large one, and you wish to change the sort entirely,
+begin by sawing off all those limbs that, being removed, will leave
+enough to graft upon, and not spoil the symmetry of the tree. With the
+hand-saw saw off the limbs to be grafted about midway, then with the
+hatchet or wedge, cleave an opening in the remaining<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> end of the limb,
+and entirely across, and deep enough to receive the cion; insert an iron
+in the cut to hold it open until the cion is placed, then withdraw the
+iron, and the graft will be held fast.</p>
+
+<p>The cions to be inserted should be cut before ascending the tree to
+graft, and, together with the wax, can be carried in a small basket for
+the purpose. If the diameter of the limb to be grafted is more than an
+inch, it is best to insert two grafts, placed so that each cion will
+stand near the edge of the cut, in juxtaposition with the bark of the
+limb. Immediately after setting the graft, plaster the cut over with a
+heavy coat of wax, being careful to leave no crack or crevice open
+through which it would be possible for air or water to enter. Each cion,
+in wedge-grafting, is cut in the shape of a wedge; the whole cion need
+not be over three to four inches in length. The following is a good
+receipe for making grafting-wax: One and a half pound of bees-wax, six
+pounds of resin, and one and a half pound rough beef tallow; put all
+into a pot, and boil one half hour, keeping it stirred; pour it out into
+a tub of cold water, and when it is sufficiently stiff it should be
+gathered into balls. When wanted for use the balls should be laid in
+warm water, which will readily soften the wax; work the wax with the
+hands thoroughly before using. Wedge-grafting is by no means the only
+way to graft, although it is about the only method of grafting large
+trees. There are from ten to twenty other modes of grafting, the
+difference being in the manner of cutting the cion, and in fitting it to
+the stock. To go into detail in regard to them would occupy too much
+space in these limited pages. Any one, with a little practice, can learn
+to cut a cion, and to graft with success.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h2>
+
+<h3>HANGING BASKETS.&mdash;WARDIAN CASES AND JARDINIERES.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Hanging Baskets for plants are made of different materials, and in a
+great variety of forms. Some are made of wire, others of clay, and
+ornamented with fancy mouldings, etc. Very pretty baskets in rustic
+style are made by covering the outside of a wooden bowl with fantastic
+knots and roots; this makes a pleasing basket, but we know of none so
+desirable as the old style semi-globular wire basket, when properly
+filled.</p>
+
+
+<h3>DIRECTIONS FOR FILLING HANGING BASKETS.</h3>
+
+<p>To fill a wire basket, first obtain some of the green moss to be found
+on the lower portion of the trunks of trees in almost any shady piece of
+woods. This is to be used as a lining to the basket, turning the green
+side out, and entirely covering the inside of the wire form with the
+moss. Before filling the basket with soil, place a handful of charcoal
+or gravel in the bottom, which will hold the moisture. Fill the basket
+with rich, loose loam, such as will not harden by frequent waterings.</p>
+
+<p>Plants that are peculiarly suitable for hanging baskets are quite
+numerous, and from them a selection may be made that will please the
+most exacting taste.</p>
+
+<p>It is a mistake to crowd too many plants into a basket, if they grow
+they will soon become root-bound, stunted, and look sickly. If the
+hanging basket be of the ordinary size, one large and choice plant
+placed in the centre with a few graceful vines to droop over the edges,
+will have a better effect when established and growing, than if it were
+crowded with plants at the time of filling. Hang<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span>ing baskets being
+constantly suspended, they are exposed to draughts of air from all
+sides, and the soil is soon dried out, hence careful watching is
+necessary in order to prevent the contents from becoming too dry. If the
+moss appears to be dry, take the basket down and dip it once or twice in
+a pail of water, this is better than sprinkling from a watering-pot. In
+filling hanging baskets, or vases of any kind, we invariably cover the
+surface of the soil with the same green moss used for lining, which,
+while it adds materially to the pleasing appearance of the whole, at the
+same time prevents the soil from drying out or becoming baked on the
+surface.</p>
+
+<p>The following is a list of choice plants suitable for hanging-baskets.
+Those marked thus (+) are fine for the centre, those marked thus (*)
+have handsome foliage, and this mark (**) indicates that the plants have
+flowers in addition to handsome foliage:</p>
+
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" width="40%" cellspacing="0" summary="Marks to indicate plant qualities">
+<tr><td align='right'>**</td><td align='left'>Begonia glaucophylla scandens.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>+</td><td align='left'>Oxalis.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>**</td><td align='left'>Begonia Rex, very fine.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>*</td><td align='left'>Fittonia</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>+</td><td align='left'>Cuphea platycentra (Cigar Plant).</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>+</td><td align='left'>Pandanus (Screw Pine).</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>+</td><td align='left'>Drac&aelig;na (Young's).</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>+</td><td align='left'>Neirembergia.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>+</td><td align='left'>Centaurea gymnocarpa.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>**</td><td align='left'>Geraniums, Mrs. Pollock and Happy Thought.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>*</td><td align='left'>Tradescantia discolor.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>*</td><td align='left'>Peperomias.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>**</td><td align='left'>Gloxinias.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>*</td><td align='left'>Fancy Ferns.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>+</td><td align='left'>Ageratum (John Douglass, blue).</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>+</td><td align='left'>Achyranthes.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>**</td><td align='left'>Variegated Hydrangea.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>*</td><td align='left'>Ficus Parcelli.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>**</td><td align='left'>Gesnerias.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>*</td><td align='left'>Variegated Grasses, etc., etc.</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+<h4>TRAILING PLANTS.</h4>
+
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" width="40%" cellspacing="0" summary="TRAILING PLANTS.">
+<tr><td align='right'>**</td><td align='left'>Fuchsia, microphylla.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'></td><td align='left'>Sedum (Stone Crop).</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>**</td><td align='left'>Ivy-leaved Geraniums.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'></td><td align='left'>German Ivy.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'></td><td align='left'>Indian Strawberry Vine.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'></td><td align='left'>Kenilworth Ivy.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'></td><td align='left'>Lycopodium.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'></td><td align='left'>Moneywort.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>**</td><td align='left'>Trailing Blue Lobelia.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>*</td><td align='left'>Cissus discolor.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>**</td><td align='left'>Lysimachia (Moneywort).</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>**</td><td align='left'>Trop&aelig;olums.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>**</td><td align='left'>Torrenia Asiatica.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>**</td><td align='left'>Mesembryanthemums (Ice Plant).</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>**</td><td align='left'>Cob&aelig;a scandens.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>**</td><td align='left'>Pilogyne suavis.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>+</td><td align='left'>Lygodium scandens (Climbing Fern).</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3>WARDIAN CASES&mdash;JARDINIERES, ETC.</h3>
+
+<p>A Wardian Case consists of a base, which is generally an oblong box,
+covered with a square glass frame, under which certain plants can be
+successfully grown. This is now considered by many to be a desirable
+ornament in the window-garden during the winter months. When neatly and
+artistically filled with suitable plants, a Wardian Case becomes a thing
+of beauty. These cases can be easily and cheaply made by any one
+possessed of ordinary mechanical skill. The base or box should be oblong
+in shape, at least eight inches deep, and lined inside with zinc or
+tin-plate, securely soldered to prevent the water and soil from staining
+the wood. A case made in this manner will endure a number of years
+without decaying. Over the case a square glass frame should be made to
+fit snugly; it should be from eighteen inches to two feet high, so as to
+allow the plants that are to grow under it plenty of room. When the case
+and frame are finished, the whole should be mounted upon a stand, or
+legs can be made with the case, under which are casters, by which to
+move it about easily. Before planting, make a small funnel hole through
+the bottom of the box, to allow the surplus water to escape rapidly, and
+before putting in the soil, cover the bottom of the box two inches deep
+with broken crocks or charcoal, or even gravel, to facilitate a rapid
+drainage, a matter absolutely essential to the healthy growth of the
+plants. Fill the box within an inch of the top with fine, rich, peaty
+loam, and all will be ready to receive the plants. Those suitable for
+growing in a case of this kind, should be such as will live and thrive
+in a moist, still atmosphere, and are of slow growth; all rampant,
+rank-growers must be discarded as being wholly unsuitable, as they would
+soon become of such proportions that they could not be confined in so
+limited a space. The following plants are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> eminently suited for Wardian
+Cases, Jardinieres, etc.; Fittonias (Gymnostachyum), Fancy Caladiums,
+Tradescantias, Cissus discolor, Gesnerias, some varieties of Crotons,
+Dwarf-growing Begonias, Fancy Ferns, Lycopods, etc., etc., are very
+suitable for this purpose. In arranging the plants in the case,
+particular care should be taken to have them so placed that the
+tallest-growing ones will be in the centre, and grading downward,
+according to size, the Lycopods being on the bottom. The whole surface
+of the soil may be covered with the trailing Lycopodium; by placing
+small pieces here and there, it will soon spread over the entire
+surface, making a beautiful ground work of purplish-green. Small,
+highly-colored sea-shells, and beautifully-colored pebbles, are
+scattered about among the plants, to enhance the beauty of the whole.
+After the case has been filled the soil should be thoroughly soaked with
+lukewarm water. Remove the case to a shady place for three or four days,
+to allow the plants to recuperate, after which it can be placed in the
+full light with safety. The lid or top should be lifted whenever there
+is excessive moisture on the inside, which will be indicated by the
+moisture trickling down on the inside of the glass. As a rule the plants
+should have fresh air, by lifting the lid for a few minutes each day,
+but beware of all cold draughts, or too much exposure to chilly
+atmospheres. Ordinarily, once a month is often enough to water, this
+must be governed by the circumstances, but they should never be allowed
+to become dry, remembering that as warmth, moisture, and a still
+atmosphere are secured, success will be certain.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV.</h2>
+
+<h3>AQUATICS&mdash;WATER LILIES.</h3>
+
+
+<p>The native Water Lilies that abound in many of our lakes, ponds, and
+rivers, are more or less familiar to all. They grow up year after year
+through the placid waters, unfolding their blossoms of spotless purity
+to the silent stars, and after a short while, disappear, to return at
+another favorable season. The American Water Lily, <i>Nymph&aelig;a odorata</i>,
+has flowers of a yellowish-white, and an odor that is peculiar and
+pleasant. The size of the flowers averages three to four inches across.
+This is by no means the only aquatic lily, for we have in cultivation
+quite a number of other choice and striking species quite different in
+leaf and flower from <i>N. odorata</i>. Among the most noticeable of these
+is, <i>N. rubra</i>, a native of India, which has flowers of a rosy-red,
+measuring from eight to ten inches in diameter, with scarlet stamens;
+the large leaves of this Water Lily turn to a gorgeous crimson color in
+the fall. There are also <i>N. Devonensis</i>, bearing flowers of a brilliant
+red, which often measure from twelve to fourteen inches across, are
+star-shaped, and very beautiful. <i>N. c&aelig;rulea</i>, a native of Egypt, has
+light blue flowers, and light green leaves; the flowers are very
+fragrant. <i>N. flava</i> has yellowish flowers, sometimes beautifully
+variegated with brown. There is quite a number of other interesting
+species, but those already mentioned are the best. The cultivation of
+Water Lilies is very simple, they can be grown with success in tubs or
+tanks, or in little artificial ponds, constructed to accommodate them. A
+hogshead sunk in the ground in the open air, in some sunny location,
+will answer to grow them in. Fill a hogshead half full of the compost
+recommended<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> for aquatics, then set the plants in the compost, press
+down firmly, and fill the cask with pure water. If possible connect a
+flow and waste pipe with the barrel, to keep the water fresh, as this is
+highly essential in growing these plants in this manner.</p>
+
+<p>A Mr. Sturtevant, we believe, now of Burlington Co., N. J., is an
+enthusiast on the cultivation of Water Lilies, and no doubt an excellent
+authority, He has written some valuable hints on the culture of
+aquatics, from which we are tempted to quote. He says, "I will add here
+a few words on the possibilities of aquatic gardening. One argument in
+favor of cultivating tropical lilies in the open air is, that larger
+leaves and flowers are obtained, and in case of the colored kinds,
+greater depth of color than when under glass." And again, "Let us
+suppose that you wish to have an aquatic garden, fifty, sixty, or a
+hundred feet in diameter. We will not build it in the stiff form of a
+circle or oval. There is a small bay, across which we will throw a
+rustic bridge to a peninsula: somewhere on the margin we will build a
+rustic summer-house."</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>"Now let us suppose that all has been planted, and come to mid-summer
+perfection. Some morning, before the night-blooming lilies (there are
+varieties that bloom only in the night), have taken their mid-day sleep,
+let us ascend the tower, and take a view of the picture." He graphically
+describes the beauty of this miniature Eden, with all its rare and
+beautiful tropical plants, which certainly must be enchanting for any
+who love the beautiful. It is surprising that many people of ample
+means, and with good facilities for growing aquatics, and who have a
+taste for flowers, do not take more interest in domesticating these
+plants. Any one who keeps a gardener can have a very fine show of these
+beautiful flowers, and a comparatively small outlay will bring good
+results in a short time. Let those who can, try it.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3>SOIL FOR GROWING AQUATIC PLANTS.</h3>
+
+<p>The best soil for growing aquatics, is that obtained from the bed of a
+pond, or a slow, swampy stream, but when this is not readily obtainable,
+a mixture of equal parts of good, rich garden loam and stable manure
+will be almost as good. Some use a mixture of muck and bog peat, from
+which they claim very satisfactory results in growing aquatics; either
+we think can be used with good success.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV.</h2>
+
+<h3>HARDY CLIMBING VINES.&mdash;IVIES.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Hardy Climbing Vines seem to be in large demand in different sections of
+the country, either for training upon trellises as single specimens, or
+for training upon the side of the building, piazza, portico, or to
+screen unsightly places, etc. We select from a large number of hardy
+climbing vines the following sorts, which we think are the most
+desirable:</p>
+
+
+<ul><li>Wistaria, Chinese (blue and white).</li>
+<li>Honeysuckles, Belgian.</li>
+<li>Clematis Jackman's (purple).</li>
+<li>Clematis Henry's (pure white).</li>
+<li>Clematis, <i>viticella rubra grandiflora</i> (red).</li>
+<li>Virginia Creeper, <i>Ampelopsis quinquefolia</i> (strong grower).</li>
+<li>Japan Creeper, <i>Ampelopsis tricuspidata</i>, or <i>Veitchii</i>, of most catalogues.</li>
+<li>Bignonia, Trumpet-Flower.</li>
+<li>Rose, Baltimore Belle (white).</li>
+<li>Rose, Queen of the Prairies (pink).</li></ul>
+
+
+<p>All of the above named vines are strong, vigorous<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> growers, perfectly
+hardy, and with the exception of the two Creepers, are handsome
+bloomers.</p>
+
+
+<h3>IVIES&mdash;GROWING AND TRAINING.</h3>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"A dainty plant is the Ivy green,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">That creepeth o'er ruins old."&mdash;Boz.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>The Ivy is one of the oldest and most venerable of all climbing shrubs,
+and is pre&euml;minently the poet's vine. In some of the older countries,
+especially in England, where the climate is particularly favorable to
+its growth, the Ivy is very attractive, and is said to reach the
+greatest perfection there. Travellers who have journeyed through that
+country, describe the old Ivy as clinging closely to, and completely
+covering the walls of ancient castles, and churches, and often it runs
+rampant over the fields, mounting stone walls, clinging to trees, etc.
+The Ivy in our climate is entirely hardy, enduring the severest winters
+without any protection. If the vine is allowed to grow over the walls of
+a dwelling, either on the inside, in a living-room, or on the outer
+walls of the building, is not only beautiful as an ornament of the home,
+but beneficial; in a sanitary point of view it is regarded as useful.
+Some plants of Ivy growing in the living and sleeping rooms, will do
+more to keep the atmosphere of the apartments pure and wholesome, than
+anything we can possibly imagine, and I recommend their more extensive
+cultivation in malarial localities. The Ivy may be easily cultivated
+from slips or layers. In soil, sand, or even in pure water, cuttings
+will root, and they will take up with almost any kind of soil, but that
+which can be easily kept loose, is preferable. The Ivy is partial to
+shade, and if it never saw the sun it would make no difference, as it
+would grow and flourish just the same. There is no sight more attractive
+in a window-garden than a fine Ivy vine trained up the casement, over
+the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> wall and ceiling; its dark, rich, glossy leaves, and thrifty look,
+make it an object to be admired. If grown in pots in the house, the soil
+will soon become exhausted, if the plant is growing rapidly, and it
+should be changed or enriched with decayed manure at least once each
+year, care being taken not to disturb the roots to a great extent. It is
+a mistake to allow Ivies too much pot-room, they will do better if the
+roots are considerably confined. Soap-suds or liquid manure if applied
+once a mouth when the plants are growing, will promote a luxuriant
+growth. When dust accumulates on the leaves, as it will, if grown
+in-doors, wash it off with a damp cloth or sponge; if this is long
+neglected, you need not be surprised if you soon discover the leaves to
+be covered with red-spider or scale-lice. Cold water is the best wash,
+when washing be sure and treat the underside of the leaves as well as
+the upper surface. I would recommend the "English Ivy" as being the best
+sort for general cultivation.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI.</h2>
+
+<h3>ANNUAL FLOWERING PLANTS.&mdash;PANSY CULTURE.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Annuals flower the same season the seeds are sown, perfect their seeds,
+and then die. "There is," says James Vick, "No forgotten spot in the
+garden, none which early flowering bulbs or other spring flowers have
+left unoccupied, that need remain bare during the summer. No bed but
+what can be made brilliant with these favorites, for there is no
+situation or soil in which some of these favorites will not flourish.
+Some delight in shade, others in sunshine; some are pleased with a cool,
+clay bed, while others are never so comfortable as in a sandy soil, or
+burning sun. The seed, too, is so cheap<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> as to be within the reach of
+all, while a good collection of bedding plants would not come within the
+resources of many, and yet very few beds filled with expensive bedding
+plants look as well as a good bed of our best annuals, like Phlox,
+Petunia, or Portulaca, and for a vase or basket many of our annuals are
+unsurpassed. To annuals, also, we are indebted mainly for our brightest
+and best flowers in the late summer and autumn months.</p>
+
+<p>"Without the Phlox and Petunia, and Portulaca and Aster, and Stock, our
+autumn gardens would be poor indeed, and how we would miss the sweet
+fragrance of the Alyssum, Mignonette, and Sweet Pea, if any ill-luck
+should befall them, or deprive us of these sweet favorites!" Annuals are
+divided into three classes, hardy, half-hardy, and tender. The hardy
+annuals are those that, like the Larkspur, Candytuft, etc., may be sown
+in the autumn, or very early in the spring in the open ground. The
+half-hardy annuals should not be sown in the open ground until all
+danger of frost is over. The Balsams and Marigolds belong to this class.
+The tender annuals generally require starting in a green-house, or
+hot-bed, to bring them to perfection, and should not be set in the open
+ground until the weather is fine and warm, some time in June. From a
+perplexing number to be found in plant catalogues, we select the
+following twelve sorts of annuals as being the most desirable for the
+garden; they are a galaxy of gems, indeed:</p>
+
+
+  <ul><li>Asters,</li>
+  <li>Balsams,</li>
+  <li>Phlox Drummondii,</li>
+  <li>Double Petunias,</li>
+  <li>Pansies,</li>
+  <li>Double Sweet Alyssum,</li>
+  <li>Double White Pyrethrum,</li>
+  <li>Dwarf Ageratum,</li>
+  <li>Verbenas,</li>
+  <li>Salvias,</li>
+  <li>Double Stocks,</li>
+  <li>Celosias (Coxcomb).</li></ul>
+
+
+<p>Sow the seed in the open ground the latter part of May, and the first of
+July most of the sorts will be in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> bloom, and they will continue to
+bloom until arrested by frosts.</p>
+
+
+<h3>PANSY CULTURE.</h3>
+
+<p>Pansies are old and popular favorites, they embrace varieties with
+variously-colored flowers, from almost jet black, to pure white and
+yellow. They are easily grown from seed. The general custom is to sow
+Pansy seed in the fall, but we are in favor of spring sowing. We have
+tried sowing seed at both seasons, and find that plants grown from
+spring-sown seed bloom more freely throughout the hot months of summer,
+while plants raised by fall sowing become exhausted, and cease flowering
+much sooner. Seed sown in March, in light, rich soil, will make fine
+blooming plants the same season. Pansies are hardy, if they have good
+protection with a litter of leaves or straw, or any light covering,
+which should be removed very early in the spring, or as soon as danger
+of heavy frosts is over. Plants remaining in ground through the winter,
+if proper care is given them, will bloom very early in the spring, as
+soon as the frost is out of the ground. We have even seen the frail
+blossoms peeping up through the snow, but the plants become exhausted
+and cease flowering before mid-summer. It is possible to have them bloom
+throughout the entire winter by taking up old plants from the open
+ground in October, and carefully planting them in a tight, cold frame in
+a sheltered location, covering the frame with glazed sash. This is often
+done by florists whose trade demands the flowers at that season of the
+year, and especially early in spring. Treated thus, they flower
+abundantly. The same can be done with Violets. Pansies require a partial
+shade and a good, rich, loamy soil, and an occasional watering through
+the dry season will help them.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII.</h2>
+
+<h3>FALL OR HOLLAND BULBS.</h3>
+
+
+<p>That class of bulbs known as Fall, or Holland Bulbs, includes Hyacinths,
+Crocuses, Jonquils, Tulips, Narcissuses, Snow-drops, and several less
+known kinds. These bulbs are grown in Holland in immense quantities, the
+soil and climate of that country being peculiarly favorable to them, and
+they are annually imported into this country in great numbers. The fall
+is the time to set them out; any time from the first of October, to the
+middle of December. Tulips, Jonquils, Narcissuses, and Hyacinths, should
+be planted four inches deep, and eight inches apart each way; the
+Snow-drops and Crocuses two inches deep, and six inches apart.</p>
+
+<p>All of the above named bulbs are entirely hardy, and will stand in the
+ground without any surface protection through the severest winters. Some
+go to the trouble of covering the surface with leaves or other litter
+for protection, but this is entirely unnecessary. A very pretty effect
+may be had, where one has a large number of bulbs, by selecting the
+different colors and planting each color in a row by itself, so that
+when they blossom, it will be in ribbon-lines of red, white, blue, or
+yellow, as the case may be. Or, if one has a large number of beds of
+different shapes, cut so as to form a design of some kind, each section
+may be planted with a different color (Hyacinths are the best for this
+work), and when all come into bloom in April, the effect will be most
+charming. We tried this "massing" of the differently colored bulbs one
+year, in a "design" of one hundred different sections of all conceivable
+shapes. Planting the bulbs so that, when in blossom, the whole would
+present a harmonious effect. It would be hard to conceive of a more
+attractive<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> sight than that presented by all those bulbs in full bloom
+in early April, when every thing else looked barren and cheerless. They
+were admired by every one who saw them. Bulbs of this character bloom
+and pass away in season to allow room for other plants to be set out.
+These may be set between the rows of bulbs, and not disturb them in the
+least. Any of the above named bulbs are especially desirable for house
+culture in winter. Make an oblong box, say four feet in length, fifteen
+inches wide, and twelve deep, fill this with fine, rich loam, then plant
+a row of Hyacinths in the centre, and on each side of this plant a row
+of either Snow-drops or Crocuses, water thoroughly, and set away in a
+dark, cool place. In three weeks remove the box into the full light, and
+water freely, they will grow and bloom throughout the winter. If the box
+can be set near a front window, it will make a pretty display while the
+bulbs are in bloom.</p>
+
+<p>These bulbs can be started in pots, or glasses filled with water, and
+treated in the same manner as stated above. Place a single bulb of
+Hyacinth in each pot or glass. Four-inch pots filled nearly to the top
+with soil, and the bulbs set in and pressed down, so that nothing but
+the crown is above ground, are all that is necessary. The same bulbs can
+be used a number of years, but they are not so good as fresh ones, which
+should be obtained each year if possible. After the bulbs are through
+blooming, they may be left in the soil in which they grew through the
+winter, and removed to a dry place to rest, in preparation for starting
+them another fall. If fresh bulbs are desired for this purpose, the old
+ones may be planted out in the open ground, where they will again renew
+their strength, and bloom annually for a number of years. They are
+multiplied from the seed and from offshoots.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVIII" id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a>CHAPTER XVIII.</h2>
+
+<h3>TROPICAL BULBS.&mdash;TUBEROSES.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Gladioluses, Tuberoses, Cannas, and Caladiums, come under this head, and
+are the best known of this class of bulbs. They are not hardy, and the
+slightest frost will injure them more or less. It is customary to allow
+tender bulbs of this kind to rest during the winter, the same as one
+would an onion. They can be safely kept through the winter under the
+staging of the green-house, in a dry, frost-proof cellar, where there is
+plenty of light, or in any other place where potatoes can be safely
+stored. Tropical bulbs of all kinds are much benefited by planting them
+in good, light, loamy soil, well enriched with well-rotted stable
+manure. They may be planted out in the open ground as soon as it can be
+worked in the spring, and all danger from heavy frosts is over. Any of
+the above named bulbs of ordinary size, should be planted at least from
+three to four inches deep, and from six to eight inches deep when the
+bulbs are of extra size. I am in favor of planting these bulbs in the
+open ground much earlier than most gardeners are in the habit of doing.
+Experience has shown me that the earlier in spring those summer bulbs
+are set out in the open ground, the better. Just as soon as the ground
+is in good condition to work, spade it up deeply, and plant the bulbs;
+the roots will soon begin to develop in the cool ground, before the tops
+start to grow, which is the true principle in growing all plants. They
+will thus receive a fine start before hot weather sets in. We have had
+Tuberoses and Gladioluses to bloom much earlier than usual, and much
+more continuously throughout the summer and fall, as the result of
+planting them as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring. If a
+continuation of bloom is desired, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> bulbs should be planted at
+successive intervals of not less then three weeks; this will give a
+sucession of bloom throughout the entire season. In the fall remove the
+bulbs from the ground as soon as the tops have been touched by frost,
+cutting the stalk off to within a couple of inches of the base, and
+setting the bulbs away to rest for the winter.</p>
+
+
+<h3>TUBEROSES.</h3>
+
+<p>No collection of garden flowers is complete without the Tuberose. For
+the spotless purity of its flowers, and for incomparable fragrance, it
+has no superior. It is very easy to grow them successfully. Bulbs
+intended for fall blooming, should be planted in the open ground from
+the first to the middle of May; plant them about two inches deep. They
+will do well in any good, rich garden soil, if the soil is occasionally
+moved around them with the rake or hoe, after they are up and growing.
+Such treatment will cause the bulbs to grow rapidly, and the flower
+trusses, when they come into bloom, will consequently be much larger and
+finer. As the Tuberose is not hardy in our Northern climates, the bulbs
+should be dug up in the fall, the tops or stalks removed to within two
+or three inches of the bulbs, which should then be laid away in some
+dry, warm place, a dry and frost-proof cellar will do, or better yet,
+store them if possible, under the staging of a green-house. In the
+spring, before planting, remove all the young offsets from around the
+parent bulb; there are usually a number of young shoots clinging to it,
+and as the old bulb blooms but once, and only once, it is henceforth
+good for nothing, save for the production of more bulbs, if desired.</p>
+
+<p>The young offshoots of the first season's growth will not become
+blooming bulbs until the third year, but if you have quite a number of
+young bulbs, say twenty-five or fifty, there will naturally be a number
+that will bloom in rota<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>tion, from year to year, and give some bloom
+each season. Some enterprising florists have Tuberoses nearly the whole
+year round. In order to do this, the bulbs must be "started" in pots;
+the bulbs are potted in the usual manner, so that the top, or crown of
+the bulb, when potted, will just show above the soil, and they should be
+kept rather dry until they show signs of growing, when they can be
+watered freely and set in a warm place. Of course bulbs intended for
+winter blooming must rest, or be kept from growing during the summer,
+and bulbs to be in bloom in April or May, must be started in January or
+February in pots. Tuberoses are rapidly productive; ten old bulbs having
+been known to produce one hundred young offshoots in one season. There
+are many "fine points" in growing Tuberoses, but the instruction here
+given will enable any one to grow them successfully.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIX" id="CHAPTER_XIX"></a>CHAPTER XIX.</h2>
+
+<h3>ROSES&mdash;CULTIVATION AND PROPAGATING.</h3>
+
+
+<p>The Rose is pre&euml;minently the Queen of Flowers. It has no rival in the
+floral kingdom, and will always stand at the head in the catalogue of
+Flora's choicest gems. To it alone belongs that subtle perfume that
+captivates the sense of smell, and that beauty of form and color so
+pleasing to the eye. Add to all this, it is one of the easiest plants to
+cultivate, as it will grow and flower in almost any soil or climate,
+requiring but little care and attention as compared with many other
+favorites of the garden. There has been great improvement made in Roses
+in the last twenty years by skillful cultivators in this country and in
+Europe, and from a few common sorts formerly grown, many hundred choice
+and desirable va<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span>rieties have been produced, and to-day the choice
+cultivated varieties are very numerous. These differ in respect to
+hardiness, habit of growth, and peculiar characteristics of blooming,
+and for these reasons cultivators have grouped them into several
+distinct classes, each class differing in certain characteristics from
+the others.</p>
+
+
+<h3>TEA ROSES.</h3>
+
+<p>The Roses best adapted for in-door culture belong to the class known as
+Tea Roses; these are tender, of a bushy growth, and if properly treated,
+will bloom the year round; the flowers have a strong tea-scent.</p>
+
+<p>Tea Roses can be cultivated out-of-doors with success, but they must be
+taken up in the fall and removed in-doors. We know it is the custom of
+some gardeners to lay the bushes down in the fall, and cover them with
+earth and leaves; while in some cases this may preserve them, it cannot
+be depended on as a rule. To keep up a steady bloom, pinch off all
+flowers as soon as they begin to fade. It is best to not let the buds
+open fully while on the bush, but they should be cut in the bud, and
+placed in a vase of water, where they will expand and keep for a long
+while. All dead leaves and flower stems should be carefully removed, and
+the surface of the soil in the pots should be stirred up occasionally
+with a stick, this will keep the plants in a growing condition, and if
+they can be kept growing, they will bloom continuously.</p>
+
+<p>The following varieties of Tea Roses are in every respect among the best
+for house culture:</p>
+
+<p><i>Bon Silene.</i>&mdash;Flowers purplish-carmine; highly scented.</p>
+
+<p><i>Niphetos.</i>&mdash;Pure white, magnificent long buds; an incessant bloomer.</p>
+
+<p><i>Perle de Jardins.</i>&mdash;Sulphur-yellow, full and double; a splendid rose.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><i>La France</i> (Bourbon).&mdash;Bright lilac-rose, fine form; perpetual bloomer,
+half hardy.</p>
+
+<p><i>Hermosa</i> (Bourbon).&mdash;Light rose-color, cupped-shaped; a most perpetual
+bloomer.</p>
+
+
+<h3>HYBRID PERPETUAL, AND MOSS ROSES.</h3>
+
+<p>Both of the above classes are entirely distinct from either the Tea,
+Noisette, or Bourbon Roses; they are entirely hardy, exceedingly
+free-bloomers in their season&mdash;from June to July; their flowers have a
+delightful perfume, and are noted for the richness and variety of their
+colors. They require to be closely pruned annually. The spring is the
+most desirable time to prune. They should have a top-dressing of manure
+every fall. The ground should be kept well shaded around their roots in
+summer. They require a strong, rich soil to make them flower well. These
+roses are not desirable for house culture. The following are among the
+best varieties of the Hybrid Perpetual, or Remontant Roses:</p>
+
+<p><i>Gen. Jacqueminot.</i>&mdash;Brilliant crimson-scarlet; magnificent buds.</p>
+
+<p><i>La Reine.</i>&mdash;Deep rosy-pink; an ideal rose.</p>
+
+<p><i>Coquette des Alps.</i>&mdash;White; blooms in clusters.</p>
+
+<p><i>Black Prince.</i>&mdash;Blackish-crimson; large, full, and globular.</p>
+
+<p><i>Victor Verdier.</i>&mdash;Rich deep-rose; elegant buds.</p>
+
+
+<h3>MOSS ROSES.</h3>
+
+<p>Of this class we need not speak in detail to any who have ever seen its
+delicate moss-covered buds, and inhaled their delightful odor. They are
+perfectly hardy, and can be wintered without any protection. They are
+called perpetual, but this is a misnomer, for we know but one variety of
+Moss Rose that approaches it, that is the <i>Salet</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> Moss. The rest are no
+more so than are the so-called Hybrid Perpetuals.</p>
+
+<p>Moss Roses should be severely pruned in spring, removing all the old
+wood.</p>
+
+<p><i>Salet</i>, deep pink; <i>White Perpetual</i>, pure white; and <i>Crested</i>,
+rose-color, are the most desirable sorts.</p>
+
+
+<h3>PROPAGATING THE ROSE.</h3>
+
+<p>The Rose is somewhat difficult to propagate from cuttings, and it takes
+from three to four weeks for them to root under the best conditions.
+Moss Roses are generally multiplied by layering (see "Layering"), and by
+budding on the common Manetti or Multiflora stocks. The following will
+be found to be a very practicable and simple method of propagating roses
+on a small scale, and is attended with very little trouble or expense:
+In the fall place sand in a box, or cold frame, to the depth of eight
+inches. Take from the bushes the number of cuttings it is desired to
+propagate, making them with two or three points or eyes; insert them in
+the sand (which should be previously packed as solid as can be), then
+water thoroughly. As the cuttings are to remain in this frame all
+winter, it should be provided with a glass sash, and the whole covered
+with leaves and manure. It need not be banked up until freezing weather.
+If rightly done, we may expect at the least fifty per cent of the
+cuttings to come from their winter bed finely rooted. They should then
+be potted, and after growing awhile, planted out, and some of them will
+bloom the first season.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XX" id="CHAPTER_XX"></a>CHAPTER XX.</h2>
+
+<h3>JAPAN AND OTHER LILIES.&mdash;CALLA LILIES.</h3>
+
+
+<p>If we call the rose the "Queen of Flowers," what royal title shall we
+bestow upon the beautiful Japan Lilies? We sometimes think it would be
+proper to name the Rose the King, for its commanding aspect, and the
+grandly beautiful Lily, the Queen of the floral kingdom. But, be this as
+it may, we have only to gaze upon a collection of Japan Lilies when in
+full bloom, and inhale their delicious odor, that perfumes the whole
+atmosphere, to be convinced of their superiority over all other flowers.
+Surely Solomon in all his glory was not arrayed like one of these.</p>
+
+<p>There are many different species and varieties of Lilies, but none
+approach those known as Japan Lilies in the beauty and variety of their
+flowers, and their exquisite fragrance. They are perfectly hardy, and
+the fall is the proper time to plant them. If good strong bulbs are set
+out in the ground in October or November, planted about eight inches
+deep, they will throw up strong shoots the following summer, and bloom
+freely. The flowers increase in size and beauty with the age of the
+bulb, and this should be left to grow undisturbed in the same spot for
+five or six years; afterwards, if desired, the bulbs can be dug up, the
+offshoots removed, and the old bulbs reset, and they will do better than
+ever. Any of the young bulbs that have been removed can be planted out
+in the ground, and in a few years will form good blooming bulbs. The
+time to perform this work is in the fall. Although entirely hardy
+without protection, it will benefit these lilies very much, if during
+the winter, they are covered with a coarse litter, leaves or any other
+good covering. This should be raked off early in the spring, as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> manure
+of any kind seems to injure them when they come in contact with it. The
+soil in which they do best is a light, sandy loam, well drained. The
+lily flourishes best in sunny locations. The following is a description
+of the leading varieties:</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Lilium auratum.</span>&mdash;This is the well-known Gold-banded Lily, and most
+decidedly the finest of all the Japan Lilies.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">L. candidum.</span>&mdash;The old White Lily (not Japan) of the gardens; a splendid
+sort; elegant, large, pure white flowers, in clusters; blooms earlier
+than the others, but not the first year; it is one of the most beautiful
+Lilies.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">L. citrinum.</span>&mdash;Very rare and beautiful; large, elegantly formed flowers;
+color, pale yellow, exquisitely tinged with blush.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">L. longiflorum.</span>&mdash;Exceedingly beautiful; very long trumpet-shaped
+flowers, pure snow white.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">L. speciosum rubrum.</span>&mdash;One of the finest of Japan Lilies; bright crimson
+and white spotted; splendid large flower, borne in clusters, stem two to
+three feet.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">L. tigrinum&mdash;Single Tiger Lily.</span>&mdash;This splendid Lily is one of the best
+in the list; the stem is tall; the flowers large and elegantly formed;
+blooms in large clusters; color, brilliant orange scarlet with intense
+black spots; remains in bloom a long time.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">L. umbelatum.</span>&mdash;Very showy, brilliant red, variegated flowers in
+clusters.</p>
+
+
+<h3>THE CALLA LILY.</h3>
+
+<p>The Calla Lily, or "The Lily of the Nile," is an old and popular
+favorite, and is found in window-garden collections everywhere. It is a
+native of the tropics, where it is said it grows to an enormous size; a
+single flower often measuring one to two feet in diameter. The Calla<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>
+will attain its highest perfection if planted in a rich, mucky soil,
+obtained from a swamp or bog. It also requires an abundance of water
+during the growing season. Callas, like all other bulbous plants, must
+have a season of rest. If required to bloom during the winter or spring
+months, they must be rested in the summer season, if this is not done we
+must not expect to have any success in flowering them. The blooming
+season can be reversed if desired, by resting in winter. Without
+allowing them at least three months of rest, it is useless to expect to
+flower them successfully. By "resting," we mean to withhold water, and
+allow the leaves and stalks to die down completely to the bulb. Then
+turn the pot on its side under a tree or grape-arbor, and let the soil
+dry up completely; this will kill the stalk but not injure the bulb.</p>
+
+
+<h3>HOW TO PREPARE CALLAS FOR WINTER BLOOMING.</h3>
+
+<p>After three months of this rest; or about the first of October, we
+"dump" out the plant, shake off all the old soil from the bulb or bulbs,
+and re-pot in fine, rich soil, using pots one size larger than those
+used the previous year; place the plants in a cool, shady spot, and
+water freely. Let them remain for two or three weeks, until new roots
+have formed, after which all danger is passed, and they can be removed
+into full light and heat. When growing, water freely. An application of
+strong liquid-manure once a week will add greatly to the growth of the
+plants, and to the number of blossoms produced. A very pretty effect can
+be obtained by arranging the plants about a fountain or pond where they
+will bloom freely throughout the summer season, presenting a tropical
+appearance. They will also grow well by standing the pots completely in
+the water.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXI" id="CHAPTER_XXI"></a>CHAPTER XXI.</h2>
+
+<h3>GERANIUMS&mdash;THE BEST TWELVE SORTS.</h3>
+
+
+<p>There is no flower that can surpass the Geranium for profusion of bloom,
+brilliancy and variety of color, and general adaptability for house
+culture. The following are the best twelve sorts:</p>
+
+
+<h3>DOUBLE VARIETIES.</h3>
+
+<p>Madam Ballet, pure white; Jewel, dark crimson; Asa Gray, salmon, very
+free bloomer; Madam Lemoine, light pink, large trusses; Bishop Wood,
+rich scarlet, approaching to carmine; Charmieux, scarlet; Casimer
+Perrier, a very near approach to yellow</p>
+
+
+<h3>SINGLE VARIETIES.</h3>
+
+<p>New Life, variegated, crimson, and white; Gen. Grant, dazzling scarlet;
+Pauline Lucca, pure white, with pink-eye; Chief Justice, the darkest of
+all Geraniums, immense trusses; Pinafore, salmon, with white eye; La
+Vienne, pure white, pale stamens, splendid; Master Christine, light
+pink, elegant for bedding.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXII" id="CHAPTER_XXII"></a>CHAPTER XXII.</h2>
+
+<h3>AZALEAS; HOW TO CULTIVATE THEM.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Comparatively few of these charming plants are to be seen outside of
+green-houses and private conservatories, we know not for what reasons,
+unless it be the erroneous idea that they cannot be successfully grown
+unless one has the facilities of the florist. I think there is no class<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span>
+of plants more easy of culture, when the manner of treating them is once
+understood, than Azaleas. As they are decidedly winter-flowering plants,
+generally coming into bloom from December to March and April, they must
+be treated as such. They should have the same kind of treatment during
+the summer as recommended for Camellias, allowing them to rest in some
+cool, shady spot out-of-doors, during which period the flowering shoots
+will grow that are to give the bloom through the winter months. They can
+be taken into the house any time in the fall before freezing weather,
+and they will thrive well in an atmosphere suited to the generality of
+plants, although to bring the bloom out to the best, an atmosphere of
+55&deg; is needed.</p>
+
+<p>There are over one hundred distinct varieties, ranging from pure white
+to lilac-purple, scarlet and pink, and when in full bloom the entire
+plant might be easily mistaken for a large bouquet, so literally covered
+is it with dazzling blossoms.</p>
+
+<p>One or two varieties of Azaleas should grace every collection; almost
+every florist keeps them in stock, and the price asked is but a small
+consideration compared with the amount of pleasure one will derive by
+having them in full bloom himself.</p>
+
+<p>Florists hardly ever attempt to multiply the Azaleas from cuttings, on
+account of the hardness of the wood, but the common mode of multiplying
+them is by grafting on the stock of the Wild Azalea, plants being easily
+and quickly obtained through this method. The Azalea will flourish best
+with a rich, mucky loam, a rather shady locality, and an abundance of
+water.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIII" id="CHAPTER_XXIII"></a>CHAPTER XXIII.</h2>
+
+<h3>CAMELLIAS.&mdash;ORANGE AND LEMON TREES.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Dear reader, did you ever see a large Camellia plant in full blossom? If
+you have not, I will risk my reputation by saying that all other flowers
+within my knowledge, barring the rose, dwindle into insignificance when
+compared with it. It excels the finest rose in doubleness and form of
+its flowers, and puts the virgin lily to shame for spotless purity and
+whiteness; if it only possessed fragrance, it would be unquestionably
+the Queen of the floral world. What I shall have to say in regard to
+this plant, I hope will have the effect of introducing it into many
+homes where it has hitherto been little known. Few outside of
+professional florists have undertaken to cultivate the Camellia, for the
+reason, we suppose, that it is thought to be quite an impossibility to
+raise and bloom it successfully outside of a green-house; this is a
+mistake, although many believe it otherwise. I contend that Camellias
+can be as easily and as successfully grown in the window-garden as the
+Rose or Geranium.</p>
+
+<p>Camellias bloom in the winter, and at no other season of the year.
+Plants should be purchased of the florist in the fall or early in
+winter, and such plants as have flower-buds already formed; those
+plants, if kept in the right atmosphere, will bloom profusely, but they
+must have an atmosphere of 50&deg; until the buds are all expanded, after
+which there will be no danger of the flowers blasting. As soon as the
+bloom has all passed off, the plants should be taken from their cool
+quarters, and placed with the other plants in a warm temperature, and
+watered freely, to encourage a vigorous growth previous to removing them
+out-of-doors in the spring. As soon as all danger of heavy frosts is
+over in the spring, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> plants should be taken from the house and
+removed to some shady location, under a grape-arbor, in a pit or frame
+covered with shades; here leave them standing in the pots "plunging" the
+pots in earth or sand to prevent too rapid drying out.</p>
+
+<p>The summer is the period in which the flower-buds are formed that bloom
+in winter; the plants should be kept growing, and watered freely
+throughout the summer. They must be left out-of-doors as long as the
+weather will permit, but, on the approach of frost, take the plants into
+the house, and let them stand in a cool room, where the temperature is
+not over 50&deg;. This is the critical time, for if they are removed into a
+warm temperature of 70&deg; or 80&deg;, the buds will all blast and drop off,
+and no flowers will be produced.</p>
+
+<p>If the plants are large and well-budded, a succession of bloom will be
+yielded throughout the entire winter. There are a number of varieties,
+embracing colors from red, pink, variegated, etc., to the purest
+waxy-white. The Double White Camellia Japonica, the white sort, is the
+most valuable for its bloom, the flowers being sometimes four to five
+inches in diameter, exceedingly double, with the petals imbricated, and
+of a waxy texture, and are highly prized by florists, who often charge
+as high as one dollar per flower for them. They are invaluable for
+funeral occasions, when pure white flowers are required. Plants are
+multiplied by either grafting or budding them on the common stock; it is
+almost impossible to raise plants from cuttings; they are slower than
+the Azalea to take root.</p>
+
+
+<h3>ORANGE AND LEMON TREES.</h3>
+
+<p>Both Orange and Lemon trees can be easily raised by sowing the seeds in
+good, rich soil, and after the seedlings become of sufficient size, a
+foot to fifteen inches high, they should be budded or grafted, otherwise
+blos<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span>soms and fruit cannot be expected. In the tropical climes, where
+these fruits are grown, there are varieties that spring up from the
+seeds of sweet oranges, called naturals; these yield a fruit that is
+edible, but is of an insipid taste. In no case can we obtain edible
+fruit of either Oranges or Lemons, budded or unbudded, in northern
+climates. The best time to bud these trees is when the seedlings are
+about a year old. They can be budded in the same manner as other trees,
+and as a rule, the buds take readily if the stock is in the right
+condition. Some graft them, but buds take better than grafts, and grow
+more rapidly. If the budding is successful, and the bud looks fresh and
+green in two weeks after it has been inserted, the union has taken
+place. The stock may then be cut off within two inches of the bud, and
+after the bud has started to grow, cut the stub still lower down, close
+to the bud. One bud in each stock is better than three or four. The soil
+best adapted to these trees is a rich, mucky loam. They should have
+plenty of pot room when growing, and, if possible, a warm, moist
+atmosphere.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIV" id="CHAPTER_XXIV"></a>CHAPTER XXIV.</h2>
+
+<h3>FUCHSIAS&mdash;TRAINING AND MANAGEMENT</h3>
+
+
+<p>We confess to have a special liking for the Fuchsias, and think no
+assortment of house plants is complete without one or two varieties of
+these beautiful flowers. They are easily propagated, either from
+cuttings or by layers, and the amount of bloom one strong, healthy plant
+is capable of producing under favorable circumstances, is truly
+wonderful. Upon one plant of Fuchsia speciosa, started from a cutting of
+a single eye in March,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> we counted at one time, in the December
+following, one hundred and fifty perfect blossoms. The plant stood in an
+eight-inch pot, and measured four feet in hight. Some kinds do better as
+house plants than others, among the best are <i>F. speciosa</i>, <i>F.
+fulgens</i>, and the Rose of Castile, and I would particularly recommend
+these sorts as superior to all others for the window-garden. The right
+kind of soil has everything to do with success in growing fine Fuchsias;
+it should be of a light peaty quality, with one-third cow manure, and
+thoroughly mixed together until well decayed. They also relish an
+abundance of water; and if they have, while growing, an application of
+liquid manure once or twice a week, it will be beneficial; never allow
+the roots to become potbound, but when the roots begin to form a mat on
+the outside of the ball of earth, it is time to shift the plant into a
+pot of the next larger size, and so on as the plant requires it. This is
+a very important point, and should not be overlooked if strong, healthy
+plants are expected.</p>
+
+<p>Fuchsias are especially desirable for training on trellises. They can be
+trained over an upright trellis, and have a very pretty effect, but the
+best form is that of an umbrella. Secure a strong, vigorous plant, and
+allow one shoot to grow upright until about two feet high, then pinch
+off the top of the shoot. It will branch out and form a head, each shoot
+of which, when sufficiently long, may have a fine thread or hair-wire
+attached to the tip, by which to draw it downward; fasten the other end
+of the wire or thread to the stem of the plant, and all the shoots will
+then be pendent. When each of these branches has attained a length of
+eight inches, pinch off the tip, and the whole will form a dense head,
+resembling an umbrella in shape, and the graceful flowers pendent from
+each shoot will be handsome indeed. Remember to keep the stock clear of
+side-shoots, in order to throw the growth into the head.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>If properly taken care of, most Fuchsias will bloom the year round, but
+some kinds can be especially recommended for winter blooming, among them
+are <i>F. speciosa</i>, flesh-colored, with scarlet corolla; <i>F.
+serratifolia</i>, orange-scarlet corolla, greenish sepals; Meteor, deep-red
+corolla, light-pink sepals. The following are the finest in every
+respect that the market affords: Mrs. Bennett, pink; Sir Cohn Campbell,
+double blue; Rose of Castile, single violet; Elm City, double scarlet;
+Carl Holt, crimson; Tower of London, double blue; Wave of Life, foliage
+yellow, corolla violet; <i>F. speciosa</i>, single, flesh-colored, and <i>F.
+fulgens</i>, long red corolla.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXV" id="CHAPTER_XXV"></a>CHAPTER XXV.</h2>
+
+<h3>CACTUSES.&mdash;NIGHT-BLOOMING CEREUS.&mdash;REX BEGONIAS.</h3>
+
+
+<p>For singularity and grotesqueness of form, as well as for the
+exceptional conditions under which they grow to the best advantage, no
+class of plants is more remarkable than the <i>Cactace&aelig;</i>. Of these, about
+a thousand species have been described by botanists; nearly all are
+indigenous to the New World, though but a small proportion are in
+cultivation. Cactuses delight in a dry, barren, sandy soil. They are
+naturally children of the desert. It is said by travellers that many of
+the species bear edible fruit, resembling somewhat in taste the
+gooseberry. So much for the peculiarities of the Cactus family in its
+native localities, but how can we succeed in cultivating the plants with
+satisfactory results in the window-garden?</p>
+
+<p>There are two simple methods of treatment that Cactuses should receive,
+namely: First, keep the soil<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> about them constantly dry, and keep them
+in a warm place. Secondly, the soil should be of a poor quality, mixed
+with a little brick dust, and they should never be allowed too much pot
+room. If either of these two points are observed in the treatment of
+Cactuses, there will be no difficulty in keeping them in a flourishing
+condition all the time.</p>
+
+
+<h3>THE NIGHT-BLOOMING CEREUS.</h3>
+
+<p>The Night-blooming Cereus is an interesting plant, and excites much
+admiration when in flower, as it blooms at night-time only, the flowers
+closing up when exposed to the day-light. They are magnificent flowers
+when in full blow, but, unhappily, are short-lived, a flower never
+opening a second time. The plant belongs to the Cactus Family, and
+requires the same general treatment. There are a number of
+night-flowering species and varieties, but the one especially known as
+the Night-blooming Cereus is <i>Cereus grandiflorus</i>, which, when in full
+bloom, presents a rare sight. Some of the flowers of the night-blooming
+kinds are exceedingly fragrant, notably <i>Cereus triangularis</i>, a single
+flower of which, when in fall bloom, will fill the air of a room with
+its pleasant odor. These plants can be made to bloom freely by keeping
+the soil quite dry, and allowing them very little pot-room, as they
+depend more upon the atmosphere than the soil for their growth. We have
+known large plants of <i>Cereus grandiflorus</i>, to produce as many as
+twenty-five fine blossoms each in the course of a season. We have found
+that liquid manure, if applied to these plants about once a month, and
+when the soil about them is very dry, will work wonders in their growth,
+and when a rapid growth can be obtained, there will be no trouble in
+having an abundance of flowers at regular intervals. Care must be taken
+not to have the liquid too strong. A small quan<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span>tity of brick dust,
+mixed with the soil in which they are growing, will be beneficial. These
+species of Cereus are easily propagated by cuttings, which will root
+readily in sand of any kind. Being of a slender habit of growth, and
+rather rampant, they should have some sort of support, and it is
+advisable to either train them to a trellis, or upon wires, or a string
+stretched over and along the window sash. We have had a number of
+flowers of a pure feathery white, <i>C. grandiflorus</i>, that were over
+fifteen inches in diameter; this is the best of the night-flowering
+species.</p>
+
+
+<h3>PROPAGATING REX BEGONIAS.</h3>
+
+<p>Those Begonias, known as belonging to the Rex division, are very
+beautiful, and also very distinct in both leaf and flower from all other
+species and varieties. The leaves are noted for their peculiar shape and
+markings, making them very valuable as ornamental house plants. They are
+easily multiplied from the leaf with its stalk. To propagate these, the
+leaf, or leaves, including the stalk, should be taken off close to the
+plant. Insert the stem of the leaf in sand, and deep enough to allow the
+leaf to lie flat upon the surface of the sand. It will take them about
+from two to three weeks to root, after which they should be potted in
+good, rich soil. It will take sometime to start them into a growth, but
+they grow very rapidly when they begin, and in two years will make large
+plants.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVI" id="CHAPTER_XXVI"></a>CHAPTER XXVI.</h2>
+
+<h3>ROCKERIES&mdash;HOW TO MAKE THEM.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Many have a taste for forming grotesque pieces of rock work, selecting
+therefor such oddly-shaped and variously-colored rocks as may be
+gathered near the locality; these are generally piled in the form of a
+pyramid in a conspicuous place on the lawn, and if nicely arranged,
+cannot be surpassed in attractiveness, and are in pleasing contrast with
+the flower-beds and shrubbery. Some prefer to have merely the bare rocks
+heaped into a pile, which will appear grotesque and rugged; others set
+out suitable plants, and train vines to creep over them. We think the
+latter the best method, where common rocks are used, but if one is
+fortunate enough to live in a locality where a large number of
+variously-colored rocks can be obtained, their natural colors when
+arranged will make them highly attractive. One of the finest pieces of
+work of this kind we ever saw, was formed of a number of rocks gathered
+from almost every country on the globe, each stone having a peculiar
+tint of its own. On the top of this valuable pile was a rare specimen of
+Red Rock obtained from Siberia, in the region of eternal frost.</p>
+
+
+<h3>HOW TO MAKE A ROCKERY.</h3>
+
+<p>Having selected a site in a partly shaded spot, we will then proceed to
+form a mound of earth which may be drawn to the spot for the purpose if
+necessary. Upon and around this mound the rocks are to be placed, one
+layer thick, leaving here and there between them a small crevice in
+which to plant vines, or to drop a few seeds. The top of the heap may be
+left open, to allow of setting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> out, either in a pot or planted out in
+the earth, a choice specimen plant. Among the plants the most
+appropriate for the centre are: <i>Eulalia Japonica variegata</i>, and
+<i>Zebrina</i>. A variegated Agave may appropriately occupy the place, or
+some of the tall native wild ferns. A narrow circle may be cut around
+the base of the rockery, six or eight inches wide; after this is spaded
+up a row of blue Lobelia may be planted around the whole circle. Instead
+of the Lobelia, a row of <i>Echeveria secunda glauca</i>, or of the
+Mountain-of-Snow Geranium would look very finely. It may be well to
+mention here a number of the plants most appropriate for rockeries. Who
+is not familiar with the Moneywort, with its low-trailing habit and
+small yellow flowers? It is peculiarly adapted for rockeries. Portulaca,
+Paris Daisy (<i>Chrysanthemum frutescens</i>), <i>Myosotis</i> (Forget-me-not),
+are among the most popular plants for rockeries. The small Sedum or
+Stone Crop (<i>Sedum acre</i>), is an interesting and useful little plant,
+growing freely on rock or rustic work. As vines are much used for such
+places, we will mention as the best hardy vines for this purpose
+Veitch's <i>Ampelopsis</i> (<i>A. tricuspidata</i>), English or Irish Ivy, and the
+so-called running Myrtle. The above are entirely hardy and will stand
+any amount of freezing without injury.</p>
+
+<p>The following vines, although not hardy, are much used for rockeries:
+Thunbergias, Trop&aelig;olums, Kenilworth Ivy, and the German Ivy (<i>Senecio
+scandens</i>). Where a rockery is formed in the midst of a pond of water,
+as is often done, plants of the kind mentioned will not flourish so well
+as those of a semi-aquatic nature, such as Caladiums, Callas, some
+Ferns, Cannas, and Lycopodiums, all of which will flourish in moist
+places.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVII" id="CHAPTER_XXVII"></a>CHAPTER XXVII.</h2>
+
+<h3>BUDDING.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Budding as an art is simple, useful, and easily acquired by any one with
+a little practice. More can be learned practically about budding in a
+few hours spent with a skillful nurseryman while he is performing the
+operation, than could be derived from anything we might write on the
+subject. We are aware that we shall not be able to state in this brief
+chapter what will be new or instructive to experienced gardeners or
+nurserymen. This is not our aim, what may be old to them is likely to be
+new to thousands of amateur gardeners. In another part of this book will
+be found a chapter on grafting; this, though differently performed, is
+analogous in its results to budding, and many amateurs not infrequently
+speak of them in the same terms. To graft a cion, one end is carefully
+cut in the shape of a wedge, and inserted in a cleft where it is to
+grow; on the other hand, in budding, we use but a single eye, taken from
+a small branch, and insert it inside of the bark of the stock or tree we
+wish to bud. From this one eye, we may in time look for a tree laden
+with precious fruit. To be more explicit, and by way of illustration, we
+will imagine a seedling apple tree, a "natural," to have grown up in our
+garden. If left alone, the fruit of that seedling tree would probably be
+worthless, but we don't propose to risk that, and will proceed to bud it
+with some kind more worthy of room in a garden. When the proper season
+for budding fruit arrives, generally from the first to the latter part
+of July, will be the time to bud, if the stock is growing thriftily. A
+keen-bladed budding knife made for the purpose, a "cion" or "stick" of
+the variety to be budded, some twine (basswood bark is the best), make
+up the needed outfit for this operation. If<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> the seedling is large, say
+five or six feet high, it should be top-budded, putting in a bud or two
+in each of the thriftiest branches. If the stock is not over one to two
+feet high, a single bud a few inches from the ground will be the best
+way to make a good tree of it. At the spot where we have decided to
+insert the bud, we will make a short, horizontal cut, then downwards a
+short, perpendicular "slit," not over an inch long, and just penetrating
+through the bark; open the slit, care being taken not to scratch the
+wood within, then insert the bud at the top of the cut, and slide it
+down to its proper place inside of the bark, the top of the bud being in
+juxtaposition with the horizontal cut above. Considerable skill is
+required to cut a bud properly, and two methods are practised, known as
+"budding with the wood in," and "budding with the wood out." The former
+consists in cutting a very little wood with the bud, a little deeper
+than the bark itself, and in the latter the wood is removed from the
+bud, leaving nothing but the bare bark. Unquestionably the surest way
+for a young budder is to remove the wood, cutting a pretty deep bud, and
+then in making the cross cut let it be only as deep as the bark, and by
+giving it a twitch the bud will readily leave the wood. I will say,
+however, that most nurserymen insist on budding with the wood, which it
+is claimed is the surest and best way to bud. We have tried both ways
+for years, and have been able to discover no difference, excepting where
+the buds are quite green at the time of budding, when it is best to have
+a little wood with the bud to sustain it. Plums should invariably be
+budded with the wood out.</p>
+
+<p>After the bud has been properly set, it should be firmly tied with a
+broad string, making the laps close enough to entirely cover the slip,
+leaving the eye of the bud uncovered. Various kinds of strings for tying
+buds are used by nurserymen, but the basswood bark, which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> is made into
+broad, ribbon-like strips, seems peculiarly adapted for the purpose, and
+we advise its use where one has any considerable amount of budding to
+do. It usually takes from three to four weeks for a bud to callous and
+form a union with the stock; at the expiration of this time the strings
+should be taken off; we would except only those cases where the stock is
+growing, when if the strings pinch the stock too closely, they can be
+removed some time sooner.</p>
+
+<p>The stock or stocks can now be left until the following spring, when the
+top should be cut away to within an inch or less of the bud; this will
+assist the roots to throw all their energy into the bud.</p>
+
+
+<h3>TOP-BUDDING TREES.</h3>
+
+<p>The top-budding of fruit and ornamental trees is much practised
+now-a-days by orchardists and fruit-growers generally, and sometimes
+with marked success.</p>
+
+<p>A famous horticulturist of Geneva, N. Y., some years ago planted a large
+number of Lombard plum trees, which he fondly expected to see come into
+bearing while quite young, and be early compensated for his labor and
+expense in planting them. He waited a number of years without seeing his
+hopes realized; his patience at last became exhausted, and starting, lie
+top-budded them all with the Bradshaw plum, which grew rapidly, and bore
+abundantly in a couple of years, and last season he received eight
+dollars per bushel for the fruit in the Philadelphia market. It is a
+well known fact among fruit-growers that some rank-growing varieties of
+fruit trees, as for instance the Keiffer Hybrid Pear, do not produce
+fruit so early, or in such abundance as some less thrifty-growing
+varieties, such as the <i>Beurre Clairgeau</i>, but by top-budding the
+latter-named sort on to a thrifty specimen of the former, we have a tree
+that will bear fruit almost every year.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Nothing will take better from the bud than the rose; some elegant tree
+roses can be grown by simply training up a shoot of any common or wild
+rose to a sufficient hight, about five feet, and then top-budding it
+with three or four choice hybrids, as the <i>Gen. Jacqueminot</i>, <i>La
+Reine</i>, <i>Coquette des Alps</i>, and <i>Black Prince</i>, and those gems of the
+floral kingdom, when in blossom, will form a variety of dazzling
+beauties, the effect of which will not only be charming to the eye, but
+novel as well. I once removed from the door-yard a large rose bush of
+the <i>Crimson Boursault</i> variety, which had a number of large limbs on,
+into a corner of the conservatory, and there budded into it fifty
+different choice varieties of Roses of all classes: Hybrids, Teas,
+Noisettes, Bourbons, China, and Bengal varieties. The effect of all
+these different Roses, when in full blow the following summer was
+amazing; a perfect galaxy of the "Queen of Flowers."</p>
+
+<p>A similar operation is possible for any skillful amateur florist to
+perform who has the facilities of a hot-house.</p>
+
+<p>Budding can only be done when, ripe buds can be obtained, and when the
+stock to be budded is in a growing and thrifty condition, so that when
+opening the bark of the stock, the same peels freely, and opens readily
+at the touch of the knife. We will append here a brief table showing at
+what months of the summer different trees may be budded:</p>
+
+
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" width="40%" cellspacing="0" summary="Showing what months of the summer different trees may be budded:">
+<tr><td align='left'>Apples</td><td align='left'>July 10th to 12th.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Pears</td><td align='left'>July 10th to 12th.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Plums</td><td align='left'>July 10th to 12th.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cherries</td><td align='left'>July 20th to Aug. 1st.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Quinces</td><td align='left'>July 20th to Aug. 1st.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Peaches</td><td align='left'>July 20th to Aug. 1st.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Nectarines</td><td align='left'>Aug. 10th to 20th.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Apricots</td><td align='left'>Aug. 10th to 20th.</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+<p>Most all sorts of ornamental trees, including Roses, in the ordinary
+season; namely, from July to August 1st.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVIII" id="CHAPTER_XXVIII"></a>CHAPTER XXVIII.</h2>
+
+<h3>PRUNING.</h3>
+
+
+<p>If we plant trees or shrubs upon our grounds with the hope of making
+them more attractive, and at the same time indulge in the common and
+mistaken idea that, if we only plant them that nature will take care of
+their future, and grow them into handsome and shapely trees and
+shrubs&mdash;we labor in vain. It is not uncommon to see in the centre of
+refinement and culture every where, sadly neglected door-yards; these
+are filled with rampant bushes, and wide-spreading evergreens; such
+yards have more of a "cemetery look" than should belong to the
+surroundings of a cheerful home.</p>
+
+<p>With a little pruning in the proper season, these unshapely bushes might
+become things of beauty, and not only look better, but will do better,
+if given a severe trimming in the spring. Hedges of Privet, Purple
+Barberry, and Japan Quince, look much prettier along the walk than the
+old-fashioned fences, which are now being rapidly done away with.</p>
+
+<p>They should be kept pruned low as to not allow them to grow over two
+feet high.</p>
+
+<p>The proper time for trimming hedges of all kinds is in mid-summer, after
+the shrubs have made a thrifty growth; we would advise an annual pruning
+in order to have the hedge looking finely.</p>
+
+<p>It is a bad plan to allow a hedge of any kind, especially an evergreen
+one, to run a number of years without trimming. If a hedge is neglected
+so long, and then severely pruned, it will look stubby and shabby for a
+year or two after. With a pair of sharp hedge-shears, a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> person having a
+straight eye will make a good job of the trimming every time.</p>
+
+<p>The spring is the time of the year in which to do the pruning of all
+kinds of plants, vines, and shrubs, that are out of doors, as they are
+then dormant. Some prefer to prune grape vines in the fall, just after
+they have ripened and shed their leaves. We think it unsafe to prune
+anything too severely in the fall, especially the grape vine. Much
+experience has taught us to select the month of March as the time of the
+year most suitable for performing the operation.</p>
+
+<p>Every one who has a garden should possess a pruning knife with a long
+blade, curved at the end, for the operation. Armed with this implement,
+let us take a walk upon the lawn, and down into the garden, while the
+snow is still white upon the ground. The first thing that we meet as we
+enter the garden, is the large grape trellis, with its mass of tangled
+brown canes, a perfect mat of long vines and curling tendrils. How are
+we to attack this formidable network of vines in order to do anything
+with them? The first thing to be done is to sever all the cords and ties
+that fasten the vines to the trellis, and allow them to fall to the
+ground for convenience in trimming them. Spread the vines out full
+length upon the ground, and beginning at one of its arms, cut each shoot
+of the previous season's growth back to two eyes; if the canes are too
+numerous some may be cut out entirely. After all the "arms" of each vine
+have been pruned in this manner, the vine can be returned to the arbor
+and tied up as before. If there is a prospect of cold weather let the
+vines lie upon the ground, as they will be less liable to "bleed," or to
+suffer from the cold. This is the simplest way we know of to trim grape
+vines, and any amateur gardener can do it if he tries this manner.
+Walking a little further, we come upon some rose bushes: there are too
+many branches among them, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> too much old wood, and some that is
+entirely dead. With our knife we will remove at least one half of this
+excess of wood, leaving as much young wood of the previous season's
+growth as possible by thinning out the old limbs and dead wood severely.
+Here is one Moss Rose bush, the stems appear as brown and looking as
+seared as a berry; it is apparently winter killed, and by cutting into
+it we find that to be the case; the roots are in all probability sound,
+and we will cut the stems down to the ground and cover the place with a
+forkful of stable manure; if the roots are alive it will grow and bloom
+the coming summer. Here is a large standard Rose with a fine top, we
+will head this back short, cutting each stem to an eye or two of the
+bottom. Proceeding to the lawn we run across some weeping deciduous
+trees, among them is a large Kilmarnock Weeping Willow, its beautiful
+pendant branches fairly reach the ground, and switch the snow as they
+sway to and fro. Nothing more beautiful could be imagined. We would head
+this back close, and it should be done every spring and most of the old
+wood thinned out. This large climbing Rose that clings so close to the
+piazza, should be trimmed about in the same way as we did the grape
+vine, and also this large Clematis Jackmanii should be cut to the ground
+and allowed to start up anew in the spring. Here is a clump of shrubbery
+among which we see the <i>Weigela</i>, <i>Spir&aelig;as</i>, <i>Purple Fringe</i>, <i>Deutzia
+crenata</i>, <i>Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora</i>, the Syringa, and a number
+of other favorite shrubs. These will all need more or less cutting back
+and trimming, and now is a good time to do it. We know one gentleman who
+boasted the finest display of Roses in his county, who was in the habit
+of cutting his Rose bushes down to the ground every spring, and when
+they began to grow he had dug in around each one an abundance of well
+rotted compost, "and," said he, "I have never seen the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> day, from June
+to October, that I could not pluck a large bouquet of the choicest
+Hybrid Perpetual roses, while my next door neighbor, who also had rose
+bushes, could find no flower after June." I will say that this gentleman
+was in the habit of cutting his roses once a day, and never allowing the
+flowers to fade on the bush, which is an excellent plan to keep up a
+perpetuity of bloom.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIX" id="CHAPTER_XXIX"></a>CHAPTER XXIX.</h2>
+
+<h3>MISCELLANEOUS NOTES.</h3>
+
+
+<h3>TREE ROSES.</h3>
+
+<p>In planting tree roses received from the nursery or elsewhere, be sure
+and set them deep; the stem, for six or eight inches above the collar,
+should be under ground. If wet moss be tied about the stem and head of
+the tree after it has been planted, and the moss kept wet for a week or
+two after planting, or until the buds begin to start, it will, in nine
+cases out of ten, save the tree. The moss maybe removed after the growth
+begins. If planted in the fall, the body and top should be well wrapped
+up in straw.</p>
+
+
+<h3>THE LAWN.</h3>
+
+<p>If one has a fine lawn and desires to keep it so, he should never work
+upon or mow it when the turf is wet or soggy. The impression made by the
+feet in walking over the sod while in this state, will leave the surface
+rough and uneven afterwards. Do not water the grass or plants while the
+sun is shining hot, as it will scorch the leaves and make them turn
+yellow. All weeds, such as dandelions, plantain, etc., growing up
+through the grass, should be carefully and thoroughly dug out by the
+roots with a knife or pointed spade; if allowed to remain, they will
+soon become so numerous as eventually to kill out the grass and give to
+the lawn an appearance of neglect.</p>
+
+
+<h3>LAWN VASES.</h3>
+
+<p>The earth in vases of plants that stand out in exposed places, will
+rapidly dry out; if shells or fine gravel is laid over the surface of
+the soil, they will prevent it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> from "baking" after watering, and hold
+the moisture much longer than without. Try it.</p>
+
+
+<h3>PLANTING TREES.</h3>
+
+<p>The spring is preferable to the fall for setting out trees and shrubs of
+all kinds. In the Northern States they should be set out about the first
+of April, to give the roots time enough to become established before
+warm weather starts the leaves.</p>
+
+<p>Of thousands of trees and shrubs that we have planted at this season,
+comparatively few failed to live and grow, providing they were in good
+condition at the time of planting. Young trees should not be headed back
+the year they are set out, but the roots may be trimmed a little,
+cutting off all that are bruised and broken. The hole in which a tree or
+shrub is to be set, should be ample enough to receive all the roots
+without cramping them into a ball, as is the habit of some who plant
+trees, the soil filled in about the roots should be fine, but not the
+sub-soil, which should be replaced by richer earth. Never allow manure
+to come in direct contact with the roots at the time of planting. It is
+very injurious, but it may be applied on the surface as a mulch, with
+safety.</p>
+
+
+<h3>BOTANICAL NAMES.</h3>
+
+<p>All species of plants belong to some particular genus, and bear a
+botanical, as well as a common name, by which they are distinguished.
+Those who have studied botany will know the exact botanical name of the
+plants in most collections. We sometimes see persons making themselves
+ridiculous by a pretended display of knowledge on matters of
+horticulture and botany, giving or pretending to give the botanical name
+of every plant one may happen to mention. The following anecdote will
+apply to such: Mr. Sidney Smith, the famous English<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> writer, was once
+visiting the conservatory of a young lady who was proud of her plants
+and flowers, and used (not very accurately) a profusion of botanical
+names. "Madam," he said, "have you the <i>Psoriasis septennis</i>?" "No," she
+said, very innocently, "I had it last winter, and I gave it to the
+Archbishop of Canterbury, and it came out beautifully in the spring."
+<i>Psoriasis septennis</i>, is the medical name for the "Seven year Itch!"</p>
+
+
+<h3>FROZEN PLANTS.</h3>
+
+<p>Tender plants that have become frozen, or but slightly touched by frost,
+can be saved, if taken before they commence to thaw out; sprinkle or dip
+the affected part in cold water, and then remove the plant or plants
+into a dark place to remain for a day, then bring them to the light. We
+have saved whole beds of tender plants from death by early frosts in the
+autumn, by getting up long before sunrise, drenching the leaves with
+water, and then covering the plants with a sheet or blanket.</p>
+
+
+<h3>CUTTING GRASS.</h3>
+
+<p>It is so easy to mow the lawn with the light-running modern lawn-mower,
+that many fine lawns are injured by too frequent mowings. We should not
+follow any set time for mowing, but be governed by the growth of the
+grass and the weather. When hot weather approaches, the grass should be
+cut less often, for too close cutting will expose the roots, and if the
+weather be dry and hot for a considerable period, the grass as a
+consequence will wither prematurely.</p>
+
+
+<h3>AN ARCH.</h3>
+
+<p>A very simple thing sometimes will look the most attractive. By driving
+two limber poles into the ground by the side of each of two gate posts,
+and bringing the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> two ends of the poles together, and fasten them
+securely, a respectable arch can be made. At the foot of each pole plant
+a <i>Clematis Jackmanii</i>, and train them to run up their poles; they will
+grow rapidly, and in a short time the arch will be covered with
+beautiful purple stars. This Clematis is entirely hardy, and can be used
+for the same purpose every year by cutting it close to the ground in the
+fall when done growing.</p>
+
+
+<h3>BLOOM.</h3>
+
+<p>When watering plants avoid wetting the foliage as much as possible, as
+they will not bloom as freely as if the leaves were dry. Geraniums are
+known to bloom a great deal more freely where the roots are confined to
+a small space, and the soil about them kept rather dry; especially is
+this so with the double sorts.</p>
+
+<p>Geraniums may be grafted successfully; the short growers, like Mrs.
+Pollock, Mountain of Snow, and Happy Thought, can be top-grafted on to
+the strong-growing kinds, like Gen. Grant, Madam Lemoine, and other
+strong-growers. If half a dozen sorts are grafted on a single stock,
+they will, when in bloom, appear as a curiosity.</p>
+
+
+<h3>MILDEW.</h3>
+
+<p>Mildew is a microscopic fungus, that is parasitic upon cultivated
+plants. Roses, Bouvardias, and especially grape vines, are subject to
+its attacks. If not arrested, mildew will soon strip a plant of its
+foliage. Whenever a whitish dust, as if flour had been sprinkled upon
+them, appears upon the leaves, particularly those of the Rose, and its
+leaves curl up, it is evident that the plant is attacked by mildew, and
+some remedy must be at once applied to prevent the spread of the
+trouble. Several excellent remedies are used by florists and gardeners
+for the pre<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span>vention and cure of mildew. None of these are more effective
+than the following, which, if applied in time, before the disease has
+become so bad as to be beyond help, will very surely arrest it. Take
+three pounds each, of Flowers of Sulphur and Quick-lime, put these
+together and add sufficient hot water to slake the lime. When the lime
+is slaked, add six gallons of water, and boil down to two gallons. Allow
+the lime to settle, and pour off the clear liquid and bottle it for use.
+To treat plants affected by mildew, add one gill of the liquid, prepared
+as above, to six gallons of water, and mix well together. This is to be
+freely syringed upon the plants every other day. It will not only arrest
+mildew, but prevent it. Sudden changes of temperature, as cool nights
+following warm days, tend to the production of mildew, and with house
+plants, these sudden changes should be carefully guarded against.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXX" id="CHAPTER_XXX"></a>CHAPTER XXX.</h2>
+
+<h3>SENTIMENT AND LANGUAGE OF FLOWERS.</h3>
+
+
+
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" width="65%" cellspacing="0" summary="SENTIMENT AND LANGUAGE OF FLOWERS.">
+<tr><td align='left'>Amaranth</td><td align='left'>Immortality.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Amaryllis</td><td align='left'>Beautiful, but timid.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Aster, double</td><td align='left'>Variety.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Aster, German</td><td align='left'>Afterthought.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Arbutus</td><td align='left'>Thee only do I love.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Acacia</td><td align='left'>Friendship.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Apple Blossom</td><td align='left'>Preference.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Asphodel</td><td align='left'>Remembered after death.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Arbor Vit&aelig;</td><td align='left'>Unchanging friendship.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Alyssum</td><td align='left'>Worth beyond beauty.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Anemone</td><td align='left'>Your love changes.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Azalea</td><td align='left'>Pleasant recollections.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Argeratum</td><td align='left'>Worth beyond beauty.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Balsam</td><td align='left'>Impatience.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Blue Bell</td><td align='left'>Constancy.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Balm</td><td align='left'>Pleasantry.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bay-leaf</td><td align='left'>I change but in death.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bachelor's Button</td><td align='left'>Hope.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Begonia</td><td align='left'>Deformed.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bitter Sweet</td><td align='left'>Truth.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Buttercup</td><td align='left'>Memories of childhood.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Brier, Sweet</td><td align='left'>Envy.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Calla</td><td align='left'>Feminine Modesty.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Carnation</td><td align='left'>Pride.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Clematis</td><td align='left'>Mental Excellence.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cypress</td><td align='left'>Disappointment, Despair</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Crocus</td><td align='left'>Happiness.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Columbine</td><td align='left'>I cannot give thee up.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cresses</td><td align='left'>Always cheerful.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Canterbury Bell</td><td align='left'>Constancy.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cereus, Night-blooming</td><td align='left'>Transient beauty.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Candytuft</td><td align='left'>Indifference.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Chrysanthemum</td><td align='left'>Heart left desolate.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Clover, White</td><td align='left'>I promise.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Clover, Four-leaved</td><td align='left'>Be mine.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Crown Imperial</td><td align='left'>Authority.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Camellia</td><td align='left'>Spotless purity.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cissus</td><td align='left'>Changeable.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Centaurea</td><td align='left'>Your looks deceive me.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cineraria</td><td align='left'>Singleness of heart.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Daisy, Field</td><td align='left'>I will think of it.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Dahlia</td><td align='left'>Dignity.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Daffodil</td><td align='left'>Unrequited love.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Dandelion</td><td align='left'>Coquetry.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Everlasting</td><td align='left'>Always remembered.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Everlasting Pea</td><td align='left'>Wilt thou go with me.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ebony</td><td align='left'>Blackness.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Fuchsia</td><td align='left'>Humble love.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Foxglove</td><td align='left'>Insincerity.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Fern</td><td align='left'>Sincerity.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Fennel</td><td align='left'>Strength.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Forget-me-not</td><td align='left'>For ever remembered.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Fraxinella</td><td align='left'>Fire.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Geranium, Ivy</td><td align='left'>Fond of dancing.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Geranium, Oak</td><td align='left'>A melancholy mind.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Geranium, Rose</td><td align='left'>I prefer you.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span>Geranium, Scarlet</td><td align='left'>Stillness.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Gladiolus</td><td align='left'>Ready armed.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Golden Rod</td><td align='left'>Encouragement.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Gillyflower</td><td align='left'>Promptness.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Hyacinth</td><td align='left'>Benevolence.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Honeysuckle</td><td align='left'>Devoted love.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>House Leek</td><td align='left'>Domestic economy.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Heliotrope</td><td align='left'>I adore you.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Hibiscus</td><td align='left'>Delicate beauty.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Hollyhock</td><td align='left'>Ambition.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Hydrangea</td><td align='left'>Vain glory.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ice Plant</td><td align='left'>Your looks freeze me.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ivy</td><td align='left'>Friendship.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Iris, German</td><td align='left'>Flame.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Iris, Common Garden</td><td align='left'>A message for thee.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Jonquil</td><td align='left'>Affection returned.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Jessamine, White</td><td align='left'>Amiability.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Jessamine, Yellow</td><td align='left'>Gracefulness.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Larkspur</td><td align='left'>Fickleness.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Lantana</td><td align='left'>Rigor.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Laurel</td><td align='left'>Words though sweet may deceive.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Lavender</td><td align='left'>Mistrust.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Lemon Blossom</td><td align='left'>Discretion.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Lady Slipper</td><td align='left'>Capricious beauty.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Lily of the Valley</td><td align='left'>Return of happiness.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Lilac, White</td><td align='left'>Youth.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Lilac, Blue</td><td align='left'>First emotions of love.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Lily, Water</td><td align='left'>Eloquence.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>May Flower</td><td align='left'>Welcome.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Marigold</td><td align='left'>Sacred affection.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Marigold and Cypress</td><td align='left'>Despair.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Mandrake</td><td align='left'>Rarity.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Mignonette</td><td align='left'>Your qualities surpass your charms.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Morning Glory</td><td align='left'>Coquetry, Affectation.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Mock Orange</td><td align='left'>Counterfeit.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Myrtle</td><td align='left'>Love in absence.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Mistletoe</td><td align='left'>Insurmountable.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Narcissus</td><td align='left'>Egotism.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Nasturtium</td><td align='left'>Patriotism.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Oxalis</td><td align='left'>Reverie.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Orange Blossom</td><td align='left'>Purity.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Olive</td><td align='left'>Peace.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Oleander</td><td align='left'>Beware.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span>Primrose</td><td align='left'>Modest worth.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Pink, White</td><td align='left'>Pure love.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Pink, Red</td><td align='left'>Devoted love.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Phlox</td><td align='left'>Our hearts are united.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Periwinkle</td><td align='left'>Sweet memories.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>P&aelig;ony</td><td align='left'>Ostentation.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Pansy</td><td align='left'>You occupy my thoughts.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Poppy</td><td align='left'>Oblivion.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Rhododendron</td><td align='left'>Agitation.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Rose, Bud</td><td align='left'>Confession of love.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Rose, Bud White</td><td align='left'>Too young to love.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Rose, Austrian</td><td align='left'>Thou art all that is lovely.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Rose, Leaf</td><td align='left'>I never trouble.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Rose, Monthly</td><td align='left'>Beauty ever new.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Rose, Moss</td><td align='left'>Superior merit.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Rose, Red</td><td align='left'>I love you.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Rose, Yellow</td><td align='left'>Infidelity.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Rosemary</td><td align='left'>Remembrance.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Sensitive Plant</td><td align='left'>Modesty.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Snow-Ball</td><td align='left'>Thoughts in heaven.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Snow-Drop</td><td align='left'>Consolation.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Sumach</td><td align='left'>Pride and poverty.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Sweet William</td><td align='left'>Gallantry.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Syringa</td><td align='left'>Memory.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Sunflower</td><td align='left'>Lofty thought.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Tuberose</td><td align='left'>Purity of mind.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Thyme</td><td align='left'>Activity.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Tulip, var</td><td align='left'>Beautiful eyes.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Tulip, Red</td><td align='left'>Declaration of love.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Tritoma</td><td align='left'>Fiery temper.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Verbena, Sensibility.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Verbena, Purple</td><td align='left'>I weep for you.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Verbena, White</td><td align='left'>Pray for me.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Violet, Blue</td><td align='left'>Faithfulness.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Violet, White</td><td align='left'>Purity, candor.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Woodbine</td><td align='left'>Fraternal love.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Wall Flower</td><td align='left'>Fidelity in misfortune.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Wistaria</td><td align='left'>Close friendship.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Wax Plant</td><td align='left'>Artificial beauty.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Yucca</td><td align='left'>Your looks pierce me.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Yew</td><td align='left'>Sadness.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Zinnia</td><td align='left'>I mourn your absence.</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+  <h4>SENT FREE ON APPLICATION</h4>
+
+  <h2>Descriptive Catalog<br />
+  <i>of</i> Rural Books</h2>
+
+  <h4>CONTAINING 128 8vo PAGES, PROFUSELY<br />
+  ILLUSTRATED, AND GIVING FULL DESCRIPTIONS<br />
+  OF THE BEST WORKS ON THE FOLLOWING SUBJECTS</h4>
+
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="THE BEST WORKS ON THE FOLLOWING SUBJECTS">
+<tr><td align='left'>Farm and Garden</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Fruits, Flowers, etc.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cattle, Sheep and Swine</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Dogs, Horses, Riding, etc.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Poultry, Pigeons and Bees</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Angling and Fishing</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Boating, Canoeing and Sailing</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Field Sports and Natural History</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Hunting, Shooting, etc.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Architecture and Building</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Landscape Gardening</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Household and Miscellaneous</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+  <p class="center">PUBLISHERS AND IMPORTERS<br />
+  Orange Judd Company<br />
+  315-321 Fourth Avenue   NEW YORK<br /><br />
+
+
+  Books will be Forwarded, Postpaid, on Receipt of Price</p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<blockquote><p><b>Farm Grasses of the United States of America</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">William Jasper Spillman</span>. A practical treatise on the grass crop,
+seeding and management of meadows and pastures, description of the best
+varieties, the seed and its impurities, grasses for special conditions,
+lawns and lawn grasses, etc., etc. In preparing this volume the author's
+object has been to present, in connected form, the main facts concerning
+the grasses grown on American farms. Every phase of the subject is
+viewed from the farmer's standpoint. Illustrated. 248 pages. 5 x 7
+inches. Cloth. $1.0</p>
+
+
+<p><b>The Book of Corn</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">Herbert Myrick</span>, assisted by <span class="smcap">A. D. Shambia</span>, <span class="smcap">E. A. Burnett</span>, <span class="smcap">Albert W.
+Fulton</span>, <span class="smcap">B. W. Snow</span>, and other most capable specialists. A complete
+treatise on the culture, marketing and uses of maize in America and
+elsewhere for farmers, dealers and others. Illustrated. 372 pages. 5 x 7
+inches. Cloth. $1.50</p>
+
+
+<p><b>The Hop&mdash;Its Culture and Care, Marketing and Manufacture</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">Herbert Myrick</span>. A practical handbook on the most approved methods in
+growing, harvesting, curing and selling hops, and on the use and
+manufacture of hops. The result of years of research and observation, it
+is a volume destined to be an authority on this crop for many years to
+come. It takes up every detail from preparing the soil and laying out
+the yard, to curing and selling the crop. Every line represents the
+ripest judgment and experience of experts. Size, 5 x 8; pages, 300;
+illustrations, nearly 150; bound in cloth and gold; price, postpaid,
+$1.50</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Tobacco Leaf</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">J. B. Killebrew</span> and <span class="smcap">Herbert Myrick</span>. Its Culture and Cure, Marketing
+and Manufacture. A practical handbook on the most approved methods in
+growing, harvesting, curing, packing and selling tobacco, with an
+account of the operations in every department of tobacco manufacture.
+The contents of this book are based on actual experiments in field,
+curing barn, packing house, factory and laboratory. It is the only work
+of the kind in existence, and is destined to be the standard practical
+and scientific authority on the whole subject of tobacco for many years.
+506 pages and 150 original engravings. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $2.00<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p><b>Bulbs and Tuberous-Rooted Plants</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">C. L. Allen</span>. A complete treatise on the history description, methods
+of propagation and full directions for the successful culture of bulbs
+in the garden, dwelling and green-house. The author of this book has for
+many years made bulb growing a specialty, and is a recognized authority
+on their cultivation and management. The cultural directions are plainly
+stated, practical and to the point. The illustrations which embellish
+this work have been drawn from nature and have been engraved especially
+for this book. 312 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.50</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Fumigation Methods</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">Willis G. Johnson</span>. A timely up-to-date book on the practical
+application of the new methods for destroying insects with hydrocyanic
+acid gas and carbon bisulphid, the most powerful insecticides ever
+discovered. It is an indispensable book for farmers, fruit growers,
+nurserymen, gardeners, florists, millers, grain dealers, transportation
+companies, college and experiment station workers, etc. Illustrated. 313
+pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.00</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Diseases of Swine</b></p>
+
+<p>By Dr. <span class="smcap">R. A. Craig</span>, Professor of Veterinary Medicine at the Purdue
+University. A concise, practical and popular guide to the prevention and
+treatment of the diseases of swine. With the discussions on each disease
+are given its causes, symptoms, treatment and means of prevention. Every
+part of the book impresses the reader with the fact that its writer is
+thoroughly and practically familiar with all the details upon which he
+treats. All technical and strictly scientific terms are avoided, so far
+as feasible, thus making the work at once available to the practical
+stock raiser as well as to the teacher and student. Illustrated. 5 x 7
+inches. 190 pages. Cloth. $0.75</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Spraying Crops&mdash;Why, When and How</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">Clarence M. Weed</span>, D.Sc. The present fourth edition has been rewritten
+and set throughout to bring it thoroughly up to date, so that it
+embodies the latest practical information gleaned by fruit growers and
+experiment station workers. So much new information has come to light
+since the third edition was published that this is practically a new
+book, needed by those who have utilized the earlier editions, as well as
+by fruit growers and farmers generally. Illustrated. 136 pages. 5 x 7
+inches. Cloth. $0.50<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p><b>Successful Fruit Culture</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">Samuel T. Maynard</span>. A practical guide to the cultivation and
+propagation of Fruits, written from the standpoint of the practical
+fruit grower who is striving to make his business profitable by growing
+the best fruit possible and at the least cost. It is up-to-date in every
+particular, and covers the entire practice of fruit culture, harvesting,
+storing, marketing, forcing, best varieties, etc., etc. It deals with
+principles first and with the practice afterwards, as the foundation,
+principles of plant growth and nourishment must always remain the same,
+while practice will vary according to the fruit grower's immediate
+conditions and environments. Illustrated. 265 pages. 5 x 7 inches.
+Cloth. $1.00</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Plums and Plum Culture</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">F. A. Waugh</span>. A complete manual for fruit growers, nurserymen, farmers
+and gardeners, on all known varieties of plums and their successful
+management. This book marks an epoch in the horticultural literature of
+America. It is a complete monograph of the plums cultivated in and
+indigenous to North America. It will be found indispensable to the
+scientist seeking the most recent and authoritative information
+concerning this group, to the nurseryman who wishes to handle his
+varieties accurately and intelligently, and to the cultivator who would
+like to grow plums successfully. Illustrated. 391 pages. 5 x 7 inches.
+Cloth. $1.50</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Fruit Harvesting, Storing, Marketing</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">F. A. Waugh</span>. A practical guide to the picking, storing, shipping and
+marketing of fruit. The principal subjects covered are the fruit market,
+fruit picking, sorting and packing, the fruit storage, evaporation,
+canning, statistics of the fruit trade, fruit package laws, commission
+dealers and dealing, cold storage, etc., etc. No progressive fruit
+grower can afford to be without this most valuable book. Illustrated.
+232 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.00</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Systematic Pomology</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">F. A. Waugh</span>, professor of horticulture and landscape gardening in the
+Massachusetts agricultural college, formerly of the university of
+Vermont. This is the first book in the English language which has ever
+made the attempt at a complete and comprehensive treatment of systematic
+pomology. It presents clearly and in detail the whole method by which
+fruits are studied. The book is suitably illustrated. 288 pages. 5 x 7
+inches. Cloth. $1.00<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p><b>Feeding Farm Animals</b></p>
+
+<p>By Professor <span class="smcap">Thomas Shaw</span>. This book is intended alike for the student
+and the farmer. The author has succeeded in giving in regular and
+orderly sequence, and in language so simple that a child can understand
+it, the principles that govern the science and practice of feeding farm
+animals. Professor Shaw is certainly to be congratulated on the
+successful manner in which he has accomplished a most difficult task.
+His book is unquestionably the most practical work which has appeared on
+the subject of feeding farm animals. Illustrated. 5&frac12; x 8 inches.
+Upward of 500 pages. Cloth. $2.00</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Profitable Dairying</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">C. L. Peck</span>. A practical guide to successful dairy management. The
+treatment of the entire subject is thoroughly practical, being
+principally a description of the methods practiced by the author. A
+specially valuable part of this book consists of a minute description of
+the far-famed model dairy farm of Rev. J. D. Detrich, near Philadelphia,
+Pa. On the farm of fifteen acres, which twenty years ago could not
+maintain one horse and two cows, there are now kept twenty-seven dairy
+cattle, in addition to two horses. All the roughage, litter, bedding,
+etc., necessary for these animals are grown on these fifteen acres, more
+than most farmers could accomplish on one hundred acres. Illustrated. 5
+x 7 inches. 200 pages. Cloth. $0.75</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Practical Dairy Bacteriology</b></p>
+
+<p>By Dr. <span class="smcap">H. W. Conn</span>, of Wesleyan University. A complete exposition of
+important facts concerning the relation of bacteria to various problems
+related to milk. A book for the classroom, laboratory, factory and farm.
+Equally useful to the teacher, student, factory man and practical
+dairyman. Fully illustrated with 83 original pictures. 340 pages. Cloth.
+5&frac12; x 8 inches. $1.25</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Modern Methods of Testing Milk and Milk Products</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">L. L. Vanslyke</span>. This is a clear and concise discussion of the
+approved methods of testing milk and milk products. All the questions
+involved in the various methods of testing milk and cream are handled
+with rare skill and yet in so plain a manner that they can be fully
+understood by all. The book should be in the hands of every dairyman,
+teacher or student. Illustrated. 214 pages. 5 x 7 inches. $0.75<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p><b>Animal Breeding</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">Thomas Shaw</span>. This book is the most complete and comprehensive work
+ever published on the subject of which it treats. It is the first book
+which has systematized the subject of animal breeding. The leading laws
+which govern this most intricate question the author has boldly defined
+and authoritatively arranged. The chapters which he has written on the
+more involved features of the subject, as sex and the relative influence
+of parents, should go far toward setting at rest the wildly speculative
+views cherished with reference to these questions. The striking
+originality in the treatment of the subject is no less conspicuous than
+the superb order and regular sequence of thought from the beginning to
+the end of the book. The book is intended to meet the needs of all
+persons interested in the breeding and rearing of live stock.
+Illustrated. 405 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.50</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Forage Crops Other Than Grasses</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">Thomas Shaw</span>. How to cultivate, harvest and use them. Indian corn,
+sorghum, clover, leguminous plants, crops of the brassica genus, the
+cereals, millet, field roots, etc. Intensely practical and reliable.
+Illustrated. 287 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.00</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Soiling Crops and the Silo</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">Thomas Shaw</span>. The growing and feeding of all kinds of soiling crops,
+conditions to which they are adapted, their plan in the rotation, etc.
+Not a line is repeated from the Forage Crops book. Best methods of
+building the silo, filling it and feeding ensilage. Illustrated. 364
+pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.50</p>
+
+
+<p><b>The Study of Breeds</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">Thomas Shaw</span>. Origin, history, distribution, characteristics,
+adaptability, uses, and standards of excellence of all pedigreed breeds
+of cattle, sheep and swine in America. The accepted text book in
+colleges, and the authority for farmers and breeders. Illustrated. 371
+pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.50</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Clovers and How to Grow Them</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">Thomas Shaw</span>. This is the first book published which treats on the
+growth, cultivation and treatment of clovers as applicable to all parts
+of the United States and Canada, and which takes up the entire subject
+in a systematic way and consecutive sequence. The importance of clover
+in the economy of the farm is so great that an exhaustive work on this
+subject will no doubt be welcomed by students in agriculture, as well as
+by all who are interested in the tilling of the soil. Illustrated. 5 x 7
+inches. 337 pages. Cloth. Net. $1.00<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p><b>Land Draining</b></p>
+
+<p>A handbook for farmers on the principles and practice of draining, by
+<span class="smcap">Manly Miles</span>, giving the results of his extended experience in laying
+tile drains. The directions for the laying out and the construction of
+tile drains will enable the farmer to avoid the errors of imperfect
+construction, and the disappointment that must necessarily follow. This
+manual for practical farmers will also be found convenient for reference
+in regard to many questions that may arise in crop growing, aside from
+the special subjects of drainage of which it treats. Illustrated. 200
+pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.00</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Barn Plans and Outbuildings</b></p>
+
+<p>Two hundred and fifty-seven illustrations. A most valuable work, full of
+ideas, hints, suggestions, plans, etc., for the construction of barns
+and outbuildings, by practical writers. Chapters are devoted to the
+economic erection and use of barns, grain barns, horse barns, cattle
+barns, sheep barns, cornhouses, smokehouses, icehouses, pig pens,
+granaries, etc. There are likewise chapters on birdhouses, doghouses,
+tool sheds, ventilators, roofs and roofing, doors and fastenings,
+workshops, poultry houses, manure sheds, barnyards, root pits, etc. 235
+pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.00</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Irrigation Farming</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">Lute Wilcox</span>. A handbook for the practical application of water in the
+production of crops. A complete treatise on water supply, canal
+construction, reservoirs and ponds, pipes for irrigation purposes,
+flumes and their structure, methods of applying water, irrigation of
+field crops, the garden, the orchard and vineyard, windmills and pumps,
+appliances and contrivances. New edition, revised, enlarged and
+rewritten. Profusely illustrated. Over 500 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth.
+$2.00</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Forest Planting</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">H. Nicholas Jarchow</span>, LL. D. A treatise on the care of woodlands and
+the restoration of the denuded timberlands on plains and mountains. The
+author has fully described those European methods, which have proved to
+be most useful in maintaining the superb forests of the old world. This
+experience has been adapted to the different climates and trees of
+America, full instructions being given for forest planting of our
+various kinds of soil and sub-soil, whether on mountain or valley.
+Illustrated. 250 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.50<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p><b>The Nut Culturist</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">Andrew S. Fuller</span>. A treatise on the propagation, planting and
+cultivation of nut-bearing trees and shrubs adapted to the climate of
+the United States, with the scientific and common names of the fruits
+known in commerce as edible or otherwise useful nuts. Intended to aid
+the farmer to increase his income without adding to his expenses or
+labor. Cloth, 12mo. $1.50</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Cranberry Culture</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">Joseph J. White</span>. Contents: Natural history, history of cultivation,
+choice of location, preparing the ground, planting the vines, management
+of meadows, flooding, enemies and difficulties overcome, picking,
+keeping, profit and loss. Illustrated. 132 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth.
+$1.00</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Ornamental Gardening for Americans</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">Elias A. Long</span>, landscape architect. A treatise on beautifying homes,
+rural districts and cemeteries. A plain and practical work with numerous
+illustrations and instructions so plain that they may be readily
+followed. Illustrated. 390 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.50</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Grape Culturist</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">A. S. Fuller</span>. This is one of the very best of works on the culture of
+the hardy grapes, with full directions for all departments of
+propagation, culture, etc., with 150 excellent engravings, illustrating
+planting, training, grafting, etc. 282 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.50</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Gardening for Young and Old</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">Joseph Harris</span>. A work intended to interest farmers' boys in farm
+gardening, which means a better and more profitable form of agriculture.
+The teachings are given in the familiar manner so well known in the
+author's "Walks and Talks on the Farm." Illustrated. 191 pages. 5 x 7
+inches. Cloth. $1.00</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Money in the Garden</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">P. T. Quinn</span>. The author gives in a plain, practical style
+instructions on three distinct, although closely connected, branches of
+gardening&mdash;the kitchen garden, market garden and field culture, from
+successful practical experience for a term of years. Illustrated. 268
+pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.00<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p><b>Greenhouse Construction</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">Prof. L. R. Taft</span>. A complete treatise on green-house structures and
+arrangements of the various forms and styles of plant houses for
+professional florists as well as amateurs. All the best and most
+approved structures are so fully and clearly described that any one who
+desires to build a green-house will have no difficulty in determining
+the kind best suited to his purpose. The modern and most successful
+methods of heating and ventilating are fully treated upon. Special
+chapters are devoted to houses used for the growing of one kind of
+plants exclusively. The construction of hotbeds and frames receives
+appropriate attention. Over 100 excellent illustrations, especially
+engraved for this work, make every point clear to the reader and add
+considerably to the artistic appearance of the book. 210 pages. 5 x 7
+inches. Cloth. $1.50</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Greenhouse Management</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">L. R. Taft</span>. This book forms an almost indispensable companion volume
+to Greenhouse Construction. In it the author gives the results of his
+many years' experience, together with that of the most successful
+florists and gardeners, in the management of growing plants under glass.
+So minute and practical are the various systems and methods of growing
+and forcing roses, violets, carnations, and all the most important
+florists' plants, as well as fruits and vegetables described, that by a
+careful study of this work and the following of its teachings, failure
+is almost impossible. Illustrated. 382 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.50</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Fungi and Fungicides</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">Prof. Clarence M. Weed</span> A practical manual concerning the fungous
+diseases of cultivated plants and the means of preventing their ravages.
+The author has endeavored to give such a concise account of the most
+important facts relating to these as will enable the cultivator to
+combat them intelligently. 90 illustrations. 222 pages. 5 x 7 inches.
+Paper, 50 cents; cloth, $1.00</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Mushrooms. How to Grow Them</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">William Falconer</span>. This is the most practical work on the subject ever
+written, and the only book on growing mushrooms published in America.
+The author describes how he grows mushrooms, and how they are grown for
+profit by the leading market gardeners, and for home use by the most
+successful private growers. Engravings drawn from nature expressly for
+this work. 170 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.00<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p><b>Rural School Agriculture</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">Charles W. Davis</span>. A book intended for the use of both teachers and
+pupils. Its aim is to enlist the interest of the boys of the farm and
+awaken in their minds the fact that the problems of the farm are great
+enough to command all the brain power they can summon. The book is a
+manual of exercises covering many phases of agriculture, and it may be
+used with any text-book of agriculture, or without a text-book. The
+exercises will enable the student to think, and to work out the
+scientific principles underlying some of the most important agricultural
+operations. The author feels that in the teaching of agriculture in the
+rural schools, the laboratory phase is almost entirely neglected. If an
+experiment helps the pupil to think, or makes his conceptions clearer,
+it fills a useful purpose, and eventually prepares for successful work
+upon the farm. The successful farmer of the future must be an
+experimenter in a small way. Following many of the exercises are a
+number of questions which prepare the way for further research work. The
+material needed for performing the experiments is simple, and can be
+devised by the teacher and pupils, or brought from the homes.
+Illustrated. 300 pages. Cloth. 5 x 7 inches. $1.00</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Agriculture Through the Laboratory and School Garden</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">C. R. Jackson</span> and Mrs. <span class="smcap">L. S. Daugherty</span>. As its name implies, this
+book gives explicit directions for actual work in the laboratory and the
+school garden, through which agricultural principles may be taught. The
+author's aim has been to present actual experimental work in every phase
+of the subject possible, and to state the directions for such work so
+that the student can perform it independently of the teacher, and to
+state them in such a way that the results will not be suggested by these
+directions. One must perform the experiment to ascertain the result. It
+embodies in the text a comprehensive, practical, scientific, yet simple
+discussion of such facts as are necessary to the understanding of many
+of the agricultural principles involved in every-day life. The book,
+although primarily intended for use in schools, is equally valuable to
+any one desiring to obtain in an easy and pleasing manner a general
+knowledge of elementary agriculture. Fully illustrated. 5&frac12; x 8
+inches. 462 pages. Cloth. Net $1.50</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Soil Physics Laboratory Guide</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">W. G. Stevenson</span> and <span class="smcap">I. O. Schaub</span>. A carefully outlined series of
+experiments in soil physics. A portion of the experiments outlined in
+this guide have been used quite generally in recent years. The exercises
+(of which there are 40) are listed in a logical order with reference to
+their relation to each other and the skill required on the part of the
+student. Illustrated. About 100 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $0.50<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p><b>The New Egg Farm</b></p>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">H. H. Stoddard</span>. A practical, reliable manual on producing eggs and
+poultry for market as a profitable business enterprise, either by itself
+or connected with other branches of agriculture. It tells all about how
+to feed and manager, how to breed and select, incubators and brooders,
+its labor-saving devices, etc., etc. Illustrated. 331 pages. 5 x 7
+inches. Cloth. $1.00</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Poultry Feeding and Fattening</b></p>
+
+<p>Compiled by <span class="smcap">G. B. Fiske</span>. A handbook for poultry keepers on the standard
+and improved methods of feeding and marketing all kinds of poultry. The
+subject of feeding and fattening poultry is prepared largely from the
+side of the best practice and experience here and abroad, although the
+underlying science of feeding is explained as fully as needful. The
+subject covers all branches, including chickens, broilers, capons,
+turkeys and waterfowl; how to feed under various conditions and for
+different purposes. The whole subject of capons and caponizing is
+treated in detail. A great mass of practical information and experience
+not readily obtainable elsewhere is given with full and explicit
+directions for fattening and preparing for market. This book will meet
+the needs of amateurs as well as commercial poultry raisers. Profusely
+illustrated. 160 pages. 5 x 7&frac12; inches. Cloth. $0.50</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Poultry Architecture</b></p>
+
+<p>Compiled by <span class="smcap">G. B. Fiske</span>. A treatise on poultry buildings of all grades,
+styles and classes, and their proper location, coops, additions and
+special construction; all practical in design, and reasonable in cost.
+Over 100 illustrations. 125 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $0.50</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Poultry Appliances and Handicraft</b></p>
+
+<p>Compiled by <span class="smcap">G. B. Fiske</span>. Illustrated description of a great variety and
+styles of the best homemade nests, roosts, windows, ventilators,
+incubators and brooders, feeding and watering appliances, etc., etc.
+Over 100 illustrations. Over 125 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $0.50</p>
+
+
+<p><b>Turkeys and How to Grow Them</b></p>
+
+<p>Edited by <span class="smcap">Herbert Myrick</span>. A treatise on the natural history and origin
+of the name of turkeys; the various breeds, the best methods to insure
+success in the business of turkey growing. With essays from practical
+turkey growers in different parts of the United States and Canada.
+Copiously illustrated 154 pages 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.00</p></blockquote>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Your Plants, by James Sheehan
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK YOUR PLANTS ***
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@@ -0,0 +1,3539 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Your Plants, by James Sheehan
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Your Plants
+       Plain and Practical Directions for the Treatment of Tender
+       and Hardy Plants in the House and in the Garden
+
+Author: James Sheehan
+
+Release Date: May 15, 2007 [EBook #21442]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK YOUR PLANTS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Tom Roch, Janet Blenkinship and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images produced by Core Historical
+Literature in Agriculture (CHLA), Cornell University)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  YOUR PLANTS.
+
+  PLAIN AND PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS
+  FOR THE TREATMENT OF
+  TENDER AND HARDY PLANTS
+  IN THE
+  HOUSE AND IN THE GARDEN.
+
+
+  BY
+  JAMES SHEEHAN.
+
+
+  NEW YORK:
+  ORANGE JUDD COMPANY,
+  1919
+
+  Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1884, by the
+  ORANGE JUDD COMPANY,
+  In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+  CONTENTS.
+
+
+                                                                   PAGE.
+
+  CHAPTER I.
+  How to Make a Lawn                                                   7
+
+  CHAPTER II.
+  Soil for Potting--Artificial Fertilizers                            10
+
+  CHAPTER III.
+  Selecting and Sowing Seeds                                          12
+
+  CHAPTER IV.
+  Making and Planting Flower Beds                                     14
+
+  CHAPTER V.
+  Watering Plants--Is Cold Water Injurious?                           16
+
+  CHAPTER VI.
+  Atmosphere and Temperature.--Insects                                19
+
+  CHAPTER VII.
+  Wintering Plants in Cellars                                         21
+
+  CHAPTER VIII.
+  The Law of Color in Flowers                                         22
+
+  CHAPTER IX.
+  The Relation of Plants to Health                                    23
+
+  CHAPTER X.
+  Layering                                                            25
+
+  CHAPTER XI.
+  Propagation of Plants from Cuttings                                 26
+
+  CHAPTER XII.
+  Grafting                                                            29
+
+  CHAPTER XIII.
+  Hanging Baskets, Wardian Cases and Jardinieres                      31
+
+  CHAPTER XIV.
+  Aquatics--Water Lilies                                              35
+
+  CHAPTER XV.
+  Hardy Climbing Vines.--Ivies                                        37
+
+  CHAPTER XVI.
+  Annual Flowering Plants--Pansy Culture                              39
+
+  CHAPTER XVII.
+  Fall or Holland Bulbs                                               42
+
+  CHAPTER XVIII.
+  Tropical Bulbs.--Tuberoses                                          44
+
+  CHAPTER XIX.
+  Roses, Cultivation, and Propagating                                 46
+
+  CHAPTER XX.
+  Japan and other Lilies.--Calla Lilies                               50
+
+  CHAPTER XXI.
+  Geraniums, the Best Twelve Sorts                                    53
+
+  CHAPTER XXII.
+  Azaleas; How to Cultivate Them                                      53
+
+  CHAPTER XXIII.
+  Camellias.--Orange and Lemon Trees                                  55
+
+  CHAPTER XXIV.
+  Fuchsias, Training and Management                                   57
+
+  CHAPTER XXV.
+  Cactuses--Night Blooming Cereus.--Rex Begonias                      59
+
+  CHAPTER XXVI.
+  Rockeries--How to Make Them                                         62
+
+  CHAPTER XXVII.
+  Budding                                                             64
+
+  CHAPTER XXVIII.
+  Pruning                                                             68
+
+  CHAPTER XXIX.
+  Miscellaneous Notes                                                 72
+
+  CHAPTER XXX.
+  Sentiment and Language of Flowers                                   76
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+In the winter of the year 1880, while the author was in attendance upon
+a large horticultural meeting in a neighboring city, which was attended
+by nearly all the leading florists and nurserymen in Western New York,
+the idea of writing this work was first suggested to him.
+
+An intelligent lady, present at that meeting, widely known for her skill
+and success as an amateur florist, in conversation with the writer made
+the following remarks: "I have in my library at least a dozen different
+works on floriculture, some of them costly, all of which I have read
+over and over again, often having to pore over a large volume of almost
+useless matter, in order to find information on some points I was
+looking for.
+
+"It has occurred to me that some one ought to write a work on flowers,
+for the use of amateurs, that would contain in a brief space all the
+requisite information ordinarily needed by those who cultivate flowers
+in and about their homes. I predict that such a work could not fail to
+meet and merit a general demand."
+
+In writing this little volume, I have earnestly endeavored to carry out,
+as near as I could, the above suggestions. How far I have succeeded in
+accomplishing this end, my readers must judge.
+
+I trust that "Your Plants" will be useful and instructive in the field
+it was designed to occupy--that of a help to amateurs in the successful
+cultivation of plants and flowers in the house and garden.
+
+   JAMES SHEEHAN.
+  _Geneva, N. Y., October, 1884._
+
+
+
+
+YOUR PLANTS.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+HOW TO MAKE A LAWN.
+
+
+A smooth lawn is a great attraction of itself, even if there is not a
+tree or shrub upon it. When it is once made, a lawn is easily kept in
+order, yet we seldom see a good one. There are three things to be taken
+into consideration in securing a fine lawn. First, location; Second,
+quality of the soil; Third, the kinds of seed to be sown.
+
+
+LOCATION.
+
+This is the most important matter relating to a good lawn. In selecting
+a site upon which to build, not the least consideration should be the
+possibility of having a fine lawn, one that will cost as little as
+possible to keep in a nice and attractive condition. The nearer level
+the land is, the better. If a house is built on an elevation back from
+the road, a sloping lawn has a good effect. Where the land is rolling
+and hilly, it should be graded into successive terraces, which, though
+rather expensive, will look well. Low lands should be avoided as much as
+possible in selecting a site on which it is intended to make a good
+lawn. Low land can be improved by thorough under-drainage. If the land
+is wet on which we design making a lawn, we should first thoroughly
+underdrain it by laying tiles two rods apart, and two feet below the
+surface. Large-growing trees should never be planted on the lawn, grass
+will not thrive under them. Fruit trees, like the apple, cherry, and
+peach, are exceedingly out of place on a fine lawn. The finest yard we
+ever saw had not a tree on it that exceeded ten feet in hight. Flowering
+shrubs, low-growing evergreens, a few weeping and deciduous trees of
+moderate size, with flower-beds neatly planted, make an attractive
+door-yard.
+
+
+SOIL.
+
+This is the mother of all vegetation. Nothing, not even grass, will
+flourish on a poor soil. The quality of the soil varies in different
+localities. We often find a fine sward on a stiff clay soil, and also on
+a light gravelly one. The soil best adapted to the growth of a good
+sward, is a sandy loam with a gravelly bottom. In making new lawns,
+there is sometimes more or less grading to be done, and often where a
+knoll has been cut off the sub-soil is exposed, and it will not do to
+sow the seed upon these patches until the spots have been thoroughly
+covered with manure which is to be worked in. If a new lawn of any
+extent is to be made, it should first be plowed deep, and if uneven and
+hilly, grade it to a level surface. The surface should have a heavy
+dressing of manure, which should be lightly plowed under, and then the
+surface should be dragged several times until fine, and then rolled with
+a heavy roller. The seed may now be sown, after which it should be
+rolled again. The spring is the best time to do this work, although if
+the fall be dry, it will answer nearly as well to do it at that time.
+The dryer the ground in preparing it for the seed, and for the sowing of
+the same, the better. In preparing a small plot of ground for a lawn,
+the spade, hand-rake, and small roller may be used in place of the
+larger implements.
+
+
+SEED.
+
+Much difficulty is often experienced in obtaining a good mixture of
+grass seed for the lawn, and different mixtures are recommended and sold
+for sowing lawns, some of which are entirely worthless. Great pains
+should be taken to have nothing but first-class seeds, which should be
+obtained direct of some responsible dealer. The finest sward we ever saw
+was made from the following mixture:
+
+  10 quarts Rhode Island Bent-grass.
+   4   "    White Clover.
+   8   "    Kentucky Blue-grass.
+   6   "    Red-top Grass.
+
+Sow at the rate of six bushels to the acre. Grass seed can be sown in
+the fall any time from the first of October to the first of December. If
+the seed be sound, a good sward may be expected the following summer,
+and a good turf may be expected from spring sown seeds if the season is
+not too dry. The dryer the ground is when the seeds are sown, the
+better. To keep the lawn in a flourishing condition, fresh and green all
+summer, it will need a top-dressing of well-rotted manure applied in the
+fall, at least once every two years. Grass roots derive their
+nourishment close to the surface, hence the great advantage of
+top-dressing. In some localities where the frost "heaves" the sod to any
+extent during the winter, it will be advantageous to roll it down in the
+spring with a heavy roller, doing it just after a heavy rain. When the
+ground is soft and pliable, this will make the surface smooth, and in
+proper condition for the lawn-mower to pass over it.
+
+Frequent mowing will thicken the sward. It is not necessary to sow oats,
+as some do, to shade the ground until the seeds have started, that is an
+"old fogy" notion, and is now obsolete.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+SOIL FOR POTTING.--ARTIFICIAL FERTILIZERS.
+
+
+Good, fresh, rich soil, is an element that is indispensable to the
+growth of healthy, vigorous plants. A plant cannot be thrifty if grown
+in soil that has become musty and stale with long continued use; it must
+have fresh soil, at least once a year.
+
+Perhaps the best soil for general potting purposes, and the kind most
+extensively used by florists, is a mixture of equal parts of decayed
+sods, and well-rotted stable manure, and occasionally, especially if the
+sod is clayey, a little sand is added. The sods for this purpose may be
+obtained from along the road-side, almost anywhere, while good stable
+manure is always readily obtainable. Select some out-of-the-way place in
+the lot, or garden, and gather the sods in quantity proportioned to the
+amount of potting to be done. Lay down a course of the sods, and on top
+of this, an equal course of well-rotted manure, and so on, alternately,
+until the heap is finished; the last layer being sod. This heap should
+be turned over carefully, two or three times a year, breaking up the
+sods finely with a spade, or fork. The whole mass will become thoroughly
+mixed, rotted, and fit for use in a year from the time the heap was
+made. For those who have a large number of plants, we think it will pay
+to adopt this method of preparing soil for them, instead of purchasing
+it of the florist at twenty-five cents or more per bushel. Some florists
+sport a great variety of different soils, which are used in the growing
+of plants of different natures, requiring, as they claim, particular
+kinds of soil.
+
+Whatever of truth, if any, there is in this view, it has never been
+demonstrated to our mind. All kinds of plants have a common requirement
+in respect to soil, and the differences in growth of various species is
+attributable to climate and other causes than that of soil. At least
+that has been our experience.
+
+
+ARTIFICIAL FERTILIZERS.
+
+This question is frequently asked! Do you recommend the use of
+artificial fertilizers for house plants, and does it benefit them? I
+invariably answer yes, if used judiciously. The use of good special
+fertilizers will help the growth of some kinds of plants, which, without
+such aid, would scarcely meet our expectations. The term artificial
+fertilizers, applies to all manurial applications, save those produced
+by domestic animals.
+
+I have always believed, however, that when any fertilizer is needed,
+good, well-rotted stable-manure should have the preference over all
+artificial fertilizers. Where this manure cannot be readily obtained, or
+used conveniently, then special fertilizers can be employed as
+substitutes with good results. In applying manure in the liquid form to
+plants, use an ounce of guano to every gallon of water, and apply it to
+those plants that are in a healthy growing condition, about once every
+two weeks. It is a mistake to try to stimulate into growth, by the use
+of fertilizers, those plants which give every indication of being sickly
+or stunted; they will make such a plant sicker, if they do not kill it
+outright. If guano is used in potting soil, it should be in the
+proportion of one pound to every bushel of soil.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+SELECTING AND SOWING SEEDS.
+
+
+All individuals of the vegetable world are so created as to reproduce
+themselves from seed or its equivalent. Every plant that grows seems to
+possess the power to perpetuate its kind. All kinds of flowering plants
+can be grown from the seed, providing good, sound seeds are obtained,
+and they are placed under the proper influences to make them germinate
+and grow.
+
+The amateur cultivator has many difficulties to contend with in raising
+plants from seed. Some times it is difficult to obtain pure, sound
+seeds, but these should always be secured if possible, taking great
+pains in selecting varieties, and in obtaining them of some reliable
+dealer. If we sow seeds, and they fail to germinate, our first thought
+is to censure the dealer or raiser of the seed for lack of integrity in
+his business, while in reality the fault may be our own, and due to
+careless sowing.
+
+Those who raise seed for the market take great pains to produce none but
+good, sound seeds, and in nine cases out of ten, where seeds fail to
+germinate and grow, the fault is with those who sow them, and not on
+account of poor quality of seed. This we know from experience.
+
+Three things are absolutely essential in the sowing of seeds, in order
+to have that success which we all desire to attain:
+
+First; care should be taken to obtain fresh, pure seeds, without which
+all our after work with them will be in vain.
+
+Second; the soil in which to sow them should be a fine, mellow loam,
+free from stones and other coarse materials.
+
+Thirdly; sowing the seed. The general custom is to sow in drills. The
+depth at which seeds should be sown must of course be regulated
+according to their fineness, or coarseness.
+
+Seeds that are exceptionally fine, like those of Lobelias, Petunias,
+Ferns, and other very tiny seeds, ought never to be covered deeper than
+the sixteenth of an inch, with very fine soil sifted on them through a
+fine sieve; the soil should then be lightly patted down with the back of
+a shovel. This will prevent the seeds from shriveling before they start
+to germinate.
+
+Seeds like those of the Pansy, Verbena, etc., require a covering of a
+quarter to a half inch of soil, while those like the Nasturtium,
+Ricinus, etc., may be covered to the depth of an inch.
+
+The regular florist has facilities for raising plants from seed that
+most amateurs do not possess, but we will give a few suggestions that
+will enable those who desire to start their own plants, to do it
+successfully by the aid of the directions here given.
+
+A cheap and simple method is, to take four plain boards, of an equal
+length, say three feet long, and ten inches deep, and nail together to
+form a square frame. Then place this frame upon a bed of rich soil,
+prepared for the purpose in some sheltered, warm spot. The bed should be
+just wide enough to be enclosed within the frame. Within this enclosure
+sow your seeds, and cover with a glass sash. Seeds can be started in
+March in this frame, and afford plants for setting out in April and May.
+
+A bank of earth, or manure, may be thrown around the outside of the
+frame to keep it snug and warm. After sowing the seed in this frame,
+shade it for four or five days by placing a cloth over the sash, this
+will prevent too much heat and light until the seeds have commenced to
+germinate, after which it can be removed without injury.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+MAKING AND PLANTING FLOWER-BEDS.
+
+
+People of the present day can scarcely be contented with tall, waving
+timothy in the front door-yard, and the rickety board-fence that
+enclosed a scene of almost primitive rusticity--the state of things in
+our "forefathers' days."
+
+In place of the timothy growing to hay in the front yard, we now see
+fine, smoothly-cut lawns of refreshing greenness; and fences of pickets,
+wire, and rustic iron, have supplanted the ancient board fences. In
+place of the tall-growing Sunflower and Hollyhock that sprung up here
+and there at random, we now see beds of choice and beautiful flowers
+artistically arranged and carefully cultivated by loving hands.
+
+All is system now about the door-yard and premises, where once were
+neglect and confusion.
+
+Every home should have one or more beds planted with attractive flowers.
+It would be a difficult matter to give specific instructions as to
+planting these beds, as every one has his own peculiar tastes in such
+matters, which is sometimes governed by surroundings, locality, etc.
+
+There are some general rules however, observed by gardeners in planting
+flower-beds that it would be well to observe.
+
+The following notes on planting flower-beds were handed us some time
+ago. We do not know the name of the writer, but have strong reason to
+believe them to be from the pen of the late James Vick.
+
+"There are a great variety of opinions as regards the most effective way
+of planting flower-beds. Some prefer to mix plants of different colors
+and varieties, others prefer the ribbon-style of planting, now so
+generally in use in Europe. If the promiscuous style is adopted, care
+should be taken to dispose the plants in the beds, so that the tallest
+will be at the back of the bed; if the leader is against a wall or
+background of shrubbery, the others should graduate to the front,
+according to the hight. In open beds, on the lawn, the tallest plants
+should be in the centre, the others grading down to the front, on all
+sides, interspersing the colors so as to form the most effective
+contrast in shades.
+
+"But for grand effect, nothing, in our estimation, can ever be obtained
+in promiscuous planting, to equal that resulting from planting in
+masses, or ribbon lines. In Europe lawns are cut so as to resemble rich,
+green velvet; on these the flower-beds are laid out in every style one
+can conceive of; some are planted in masses of blue, yellow, crimson,
+white, etc., separate beds of each harmoniously blended on the carpeting
+of green.
+
+"Then again, the ribbon-style is used in large beds, in forms so various
+that allusion can here be made to only a few of the most conspicuous. In
+a circular bed, say twenty feet in diameter, the bordering can be made
+of blue Lobelia, attaining a hight of six inches; next plant Mrs.
+Pollock Geranium, or Bijou Zonal Geraniums, growing about nine inches
+high. If you plant Mrs. Pollock, on the next row to it plant Mountain of
+Snow (silvered-leaved geranium), next a circle of Red Achyranthes; there
+are several varieties of this plant. Next Centaurea candidissima (Dusty
+Miller); the centre being a mound of Scarlet Salvias.
+
+"Narrow beds along the margins of walks can be formed of low-growing
+plants, such as the White Lobelia, Gypsophila, or Silvered Alyssum, for
+the front line, followed next by the Tom Thumb Tropaeolum; then as a
+centre, or third line, Fuchsia Golden Fleece; as a second margined-line
+on the other side, Silver-leaved Geraniums with scarlet flowers,
+followed by a line of blue Lobelia.
+
+"Shaded stars have a fine effect on a lawn; cut a star and plant it with
+either Verbenas, Petunias, Phlox Drummondii, or Portulaca. The ends of
+the stars should be white, and shaded to the centre."
+
+A whole volume might be written on the subject of gardening, without
+exhausting its variety or interest, but we take it for granted that our
+readers will exercise their own tastes, or call on some competent
+gardener to give advice in the premises.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+WATERING PLANTS.--IS COLD WATER INJURIOUS?
+
+
+Probably the most important matter to be observed in growing
+house-plants is that of watering them. The cultivator should know just
+when to water, and to give it where it will do the most good. Amateur
+florists often exhibit much poor judgment in watering. It is the habit
+of some to keep the soil about their plants constantly soaked with
+water, and they wonder why they are not thrifty or healthy. These
+cultivators do not stop to consider that such treatment is unnatural,
+and will have an effect contrary to what is desired. There are those who
+resort to the opposite extreme, and keep their plants all the time in a
+perishing condition of dryness, which is even worse than if they were
+watered to death. If we will observe how judiciously Nature distributes
+the sunshine and shadow, the periodical rains, and the refreshing dews,
+we will learn an important lesson. A pot, or other receptacle in which
+plants are grown, should be porous; glazed, or painted pots, ought never
+to be used, where plain, unglazed pots can be obtained; all non-porous
+pots of tin and similar material, should be discarded. Plants growing
+in them can never compare in health with those that have the advantage
+of plain porous pots. There should be a hole of sufficient size in the
+bottom of each pot, to allow the water to drain off, and to pass away as
+soon as possible. Placing a few pieces of broken crocks, or charcoal, in
+the bottom of the pots will facilitate a rapid drainage, as good
+drainage is essential to the growth of strong, and healthy plants. When
+plants require water, it will be indicated by a light, dry appearance of
+the top of the soil, and if watered when in this condition, it will do
+the most good. Give water only when in this condition, and then
+copiously, giving them all they will soak up at the time, then withhold
+water until the same indication of their want of it again appears, then
+apply it freely. Unless plants are in a very dry atmosphere, as in a
+warm parlor in winter, they will seldom require watering. In summer they
+should be closely watched, and if exposed to wind and sun, they will
+require daily watering, to keep them in a flourishing state. When plants
+are suffering from drouth, it will be indicated by the drooping of the
+leaves, and they will frequently turn yellow, and drop off prematurely;
+this can be avoided by timely attention each day.
+
+In summer, watering in the cool of the evening will be followed by the
+best results, for it will give the plants time to take up and assimilate
+the moisture necessary to their life, and being completely charged with
+water, they will be prepared for the hot sun and drying winds of the
+following day.
+
+
+IS COLD WATER INJURIOUS TO PLANTS?
+
+Those who study works on horticulture by different writers, will
+discover many opposing views in respect to the modes of caring for, and
+the treatment of plants. The proper temperature for water when applied
+to plants, has been frequently discussed by different writers; some
+contend that cool water, just drawn from a well or cistern, should never
+be showered upon plants, but that it should first be heated to the
+temperature of the room in which the plants are standing. Others, with
+equal zeal, claim that cold water will not injure the plants in the
+least, contending that the water will assume the right temperature
+before injury is done the plant. Now which is right? We have
+experimented in this matter to a considerable extent, in order to
+satisfy ourselves as to which of these two views is correct. In the
+month of December I took from my collection twelve large geraniums and
+placed them by themselves in the conservatory; six of these I watered
+with cold water, drawn from a hydrant pipe at the temperature of 45 deg.,
+and the other six were supplied with water from a barrel standing in the
+conservatory, and was of the same temperature of the house, that is from
+60 deg. to 80 deg.. The plants watered with the cold water gave little if any
+bloom throughout the winter, while the six watered from the barrel grew
+finely, and bloomed profusely.
+
+Always water your plants in winter time with lukewarm water, if you
+would have a profusion of flowers, and thrifty-growing plants. The water
+should be of the same temperature as the room or place where the plants
+are. There is no theory about it, it is a practical fact, all talk to
+the contrary notwithstanding.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+ATMOSPHERE AND TEMPERATURE.--INSECTS.
+
+
+The proper regulation of the atmosphere as to moisture and temperature,
+is one of the most important points to be observed in cultivating plants
+in the parlor, or window-garden. Plants will not flourish, bloom, and be
+healthy, in a dry, dusty atmosphere, even though the best of care
+otherwise may be bestowed upon them; hence it is that those who attempt
+to raise plants in their dwellings meet with so little success. There is
+an immense contrast between the atmosphere of a well regulated
+green-house and that of an ordinary dwelling. In the green-house, the
+atmosphere is moist and well-tempered to the healthful growth of plants;
+while that of the parlor or sitting-room is invariably dry and dusty,
+and plants will not flourish in it as they would in the conservatory. If
+the dwelling be heated by coal, there is more or less gas constantly
+discharged into the air of the room, which is of itself enough to
+destroy vegetation, or make it sickly. Houses heated by steam, are
+better adapted to the cultivation of plants.
+
+All plants will not flourish in the common temperature of a living-room;
+some require a low temperature, and others need a warmer one. The
+following plants require a temperature of from 70 deg. to 80 deg. in the
+day-time, and 55 deg. to 60 deg. at night Begonias, Coleuses, Calceolarias,
+Bouvardias, Ferns (tropical), Hibiscuses, Poinsettias, Tuberoses,
+Heliotropes, Crotons, Hoyas, Cactuses, all kinds, Caladiums, Cannas,
+Palms, Orange and Lemon Trees, Geraniums, etc.
+
+The following will do well in an atmosphere ranging from 50 deg. to 60 deg. by
+day, and 40 deg. to 45 deg. by night: Camellias, Azaleas, Oleanders, Roses,
+Carnations, Callas, Ivies, Abutilons, Jessamines, Holland-bulbs,
+Lily-of-the-Valley, Primroses, Violets, Verbenas, Chrysanthemums, etc.
+Plants will flourish better in the kitchen, where the steam and moisture
+from cooking are constantly arising, and tempering the atmosphere, than
+in a dry, dusty sitting-room; hence it is that we find "Bridget"
+sometimes cultivating a few plants in her kitchen window, that are
+envied by the mistress of the house, because they are so much finer than
+those in her parlor or sitting-room.
+
+If a pan of water is set upon a stove in a room where plants are
+growing, it will help to materially relieve the dryness of the
+atmosphere. But most all kinds of house-plants will do fairly in a
+uniform temperature, from 70 deg. by day to 55 deg. by night. Careful
+observation of the habits and requirements of different kinds of plants,
+as they come under our care, will greatly assist the cultivator, and in
+a short time he will be so conversant with their various habits as to
+know just how to properly treat each and every plant in his collection.
+
+
+INSECTS UPON PLANTS.
+
+The little green insects so frequently seen on house-plants, are called
+aphis (plural aphides), plant-lice, or green-fly. They feed upon the
+tender growth of plants, especially the new leaves, and will rapidly sap
+and destroy the life of any plant if allowed to remain undisturbed. In
+the spring these insects abound in great numbers on the plants in
+green-houses and parlors, or wherever they may be growing, and the
+remedy should be promptly applied. The greatest enemy to the green-fly
+is tobacco smoke, made by burning the stems, the refuse of the
+cigar-maker's shops; allowing the smoke to circulate among the leaves to
+which the insects are attached, will readily exterminate them. Place the
+infested plant under a barrel, an ordinary cracker barrel will do, and
+put under it a pan of burning tobacco, slightly moistened with water.
+Leave the plant in the smoke for fifteen or twenty minutes, after which
+remove it. If one "smoking" fails to destroy the insects, repeat the
+dose three or four times, once each day, until they are completely
+exterminated.
+
+A strong solution, or "tea," made from soaking tobacco stems in water,
+and syringing the same over the plants, will effectually destroy the
+little pests, and not injure the plant in the operation.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+WINTERING PLANTS IN CELLARS.
+
+
+Many plants, such as Agaves (Century Plants), Oleanders, large Cactuses,
+etc., that have grown too large to be accommodated in the sitting-room
+or conservatory; can be successfully wintered in any moderately dry,
+frost-proof cellar. After placing these large plants in the cellar, it
+will not be necessary to give them any water, the object being to keep
+them dormant all winter, which can be done by keeping the soil as dry as
+possible, but not so dry as to allow the plants to shrivel, or become
+withered. Large plants of the kinds mentioned, often form desirable
+ornaments during the summer time, but it is impracticable, in most
+cases, to bring them into the house in winter, but they can be kept for
+years by cellaring through the winter as stated. Large Geraniums, Salvia
+and Heliotrope roots, and even Tea Roses, and Carnations, can be kept
+moderately well in the cellar by trenching them in dry, or moderately
+moist sand. Thus many choice specimens of these plants that we are loth
+to pull up and threw away when winter approaches, can be successfully
+kept over until the next season. It is a needless expense to purchase a
+stock of new plants for the garden every year, when we can winter many
+of the old ones in this simple and inexpensive manner. The leaves of all
+deciduous plants should be removed before they are put away in this
+manner. The foliage should remain on the Oleanders and Carnations.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+THE LAW OF COLOR IN FLOWERS.
+
+
+The public are so often duped by a set of travelling frauds, who make it
+their business to represent themselves as being the sole proprietor or
+agent of some "wonderful" kinds of plants, bulbs, or seeds, which
+possess the virtue of being remarkably distinct from anything ever seen
+or heard of before, that many over-credulous ladies or gentlemen fall
+victims to the unprincipled sharks. Did you ever see any one who could
+sell rose bushes that would certainly bear blue roses, or plants of the
+Verbena that produce yellow blossoms, or Tuberose bulbs bearing scarlet
+flowers? If you have not, you have something to learn, and many have
+paid dearly for experiences of this kind.
+
+There is a natural law of color in flowers, that the varieties of a
+species invariably present a certain range of colors. To attempt to
+introduce a new and distinct color, as for example a blue rose, into a
+family where the colors are always white, red, and yellow, is an
+impossibility, and any one who claims to do this, may be set down as a
+swindler.
+
+Much credit is due Mr. Peter Henderson, an eminent florist and seedsman
+of New York City, for the vigorous methods employed by him in exposing
+frauds of this kind, whenever his attention has been called to them. We
+quote from an article written by Mr. Henderson on this subject, some
+years ago: "It has long been known among the best observers of such
+matters, that in certain families of plants, particular colors prevail,
+and that in no single instance can we ever expect to see blue, yellow,
+and scarlet colors in varieties of the same species. If any one at all
+conversant with plants, will bring any family of them to mind, it will
+at once be seen how undeviating is this law. In the Dahlia we have
+scarlet and yellow, but no approach to the blue, so in the Rose,
+Hollyhock, etc. Again in the Verbena and Salvia, we have scarlet and
+blue, but no yellow. If we reflect, it will be seen that there is
+nothing out of the order of nature in this arrangement; why then should
+we expect nature to step outside of what seems to be her fixed laws, and
+give us a blue rose, etc." A word to the wise, we take it, is sufficient
+in view of the foregoing facts.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+THE RELATION OF PLANTS TO HEALTH.
+
+
+Plants at present are more generally cultivated in-doors than formerly,
+and they may be seen in almost every home. The cultivation of plants in
+dwellings is decidedly a modern custom--at least to the extent to which
+it is now practised. One who now contemplates building a dwelling house,
+plans to have included with the other conveniences of a first-class
+home, a suitable window for house plants. As the cultivation of plants
+in dwelling houses increases, the question is raised by some: "Are not
+plants injurious to health, if growing in the apartments in which we
+live and sleep?" We know of persons who would not sleep in a room in
+which a number of plants were growing, giving as the reason that the
+amount of carbonic acid gas given off by the plants, is detrimental to
+health. Now this view is either true or it is not true. We have made a
+particular study of this matter, and speak from experience. Over ten
+years of my life had been spent in the green-house, among all kinds of
+plants; I have frequently slept all night among them, and I have never
+observed it to be in any way detrimental to my health, but, on the
+contrary, I have never felt better than when among plants. Gardeners, as
+a class, those who have spent their lives among plants, show, so far as
+we have observed, a longevity equal to, if not exceeding that of any
+other class who are engaged in any of the vocations usually regarded as
+healthy. We must admit, however, that we have never known of a case of
+chronic rheumatism to be benefited in the least by working in
+hot-houses, on account of the perpetual dampness of the air. On the
+other hand, we know of a number of persons afflicted with various other
+diseases, who have been noticeably benefited by working among plants:
+perhaps it was owing to the health-giving bodily exercise required by
+the work, rather than the supposed health-giving effects of the plants
+themselves; we think the result was due to both. An eminent physician
+cites a case in which his sister, aged fifty years, was afflicted with
+tubercular consumption, her death, as the natural result of such a
+terrible disease being expected at any time, but being an ardent lover
+of plants and flowers, she was daily accustomed to move among her
+plants, of which she possessed a large number, in her sleeping room as
+well as many others in beds outside. Her friends reproved her for
+sleeping in the same room with her plants; but the years came and went,
+and she was still found moving among her flowers in her eightieth year,
+surviving those, who many years before predicted her immediate demise,
+as the result of her imprudence. Who will say but what the exhalation
+from her numerous plants increasing the humidity of the atmosphere in
+which she lived, prolonged her life? The above is but one of many cases,
+in which tubercular consumption has been arrested and sometimes wholly
+cured by the sanitary effects produced by working among plants for a
+considerable time. We know of cases in which druggists, ministers, and
+students from school, compelled to relinquish their chosen vocations on
+account of failing health, have resorted to the nursery or hot-house. In
+almost every case restoration to vigorous health was the result.
+
+We contend, therefore, that this old superstition that house plants are
+injurious to health, is nothing but a myth. The amount of carbonic acid
+gas at night discharged from two dozen large plants, will not equal that
+exhaled by one infant sleeper, as has been demonstrated by scientific
+men. Because a few old cronies stick to the absurdity that "plants are
+awful sickenin' things," it is no reason why sensible people should be
+at all alarmed by it.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+LAYERING.
+
+
+Layering is a simple method by which plants may be multiplied. Moss
+Roses, nearly all kinds of hardy vines, like the Wistaria, Clematis,
+Honeysuckle, Ivy, and many others, are easily multiplied in this manner,
+together with most of our hardy shrubs. Many of our tenderer plants like
+Chrysanthemums, Verbenas, Heliotropes, etc., layer finely, by first
+bending the branches down to the ground, and partially covering them
+with sand or soil. Pots may be plunged in the ground so that the limbs
+will not require to be bent much in layering them. In layering
+hard-wooded plants like the Rose or Clematis, it is customary to cut a
+slight gash on the underside of each limb to be laid down, just cutting
+inside of the bark; this will arrest the flow of sap, and new roots will
+form at this point. Where vines are layered, such as the Grape, a simple
+twisting of the vine until the bark is cracked, will answer in place of
+cutting, and we believe it is just as well. It should be understood,
+however, that in layering, the entire shoot is not to be covered; a good
+portion of the tip of the shoot should be in sight, and only the middle
+of the branch be under ground, and securely fastened down by means of a
+peg. All layering should be done while the wood is young; just ripe
+enough to bend without snapping off, and all hardy vines and shrubs are
+in condition to layer from the first to the middle of June. For tender
+plants any month during the summer will answer for the operation. Most
+tender plants will root in a month or six weeks. Examine the layers in
+the fall, and if rooted, remove them; if not, they should remain
+undisturbed for another season.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+PROPAGATION OF PLANTS FROM CUTTINGS.
+
+
+In the propagation of plants from cuttings or otherwise, the amateur,
+with limited facilities, of course cannot compete with the trained and
+experienced propagator, who makes the rearing of plants his business,
+devoting his whole attention to that special branch. Many men have
+devoted the greater part of a lifetime to experiment and study, as to
+the best and most practicable methods for the successful propagation of
+plants. There are, however, common and ordinary methods for propagating
+plants from cuttings, that the most inexperienced can practice with a
+measure of success. All florists root their cuttings in sand, and that
+obtained from the beach of some fresh water lake is the best for the
+purpose, being free from gravel and clay, and will not hold water long.
+If lake sand cannot be easily obtained, common building sand will answer
+by thoroughly washing it with several waters to free it from clay, etc.
+I can recommend to the reader no more simple and practical method of
+propagating plants on a small scale, than the following, from the pen of
+an experienced florist, which expresses my own views exactly:
+
+     "Take a pan, or dish, at least three inches deep--the circumference
+     of which may be as large as you wish, fill to within one half inch
+     of the top with sand. The cuttings are to be inserted in the sand,
+     which is made very wet, of the consistency of mud. The pan should
+     then be placed on the window case, where it will receive the full
+     light of the sun, which will not injure the cuttings in the least,
+     providing the sand is kept constantly wet, being careful to never
+     allow it to become dry for a moment, otherwise the plants will be
+     lost.
+
+     "'Is there no drainage from the pan necessary?' none, the
+     atmosphere will evaporate the water fast enough to prevent any
+     stagnation during the brief time required for the cuttings to take
+     root."
+
+Success in propagating in this way, depends altogether upon keeping the
+sand wet like mud until the cuttings in it are "struck" or rooted, and
+this may be easily determined--with the hand gently try to lift the
+cutting, you will know if it is rooted by the hold maintained on the
+sand, if not, it will come out. A little experience in feeling with the
+hand in this way, will enable you to readily determine whether the
+cutting is rooted or not.
+
+I have no doubt that the following table, which I have carefully
+prepared from my own extensive experience in regard to length of time
+required by different plants to take root from cuttings, will be of
+interest to all who desire to propagate plants in this manner. I am
+supposing now, in the following table, that all the conditions and
+facilities are such as are generally found in a first-class propagating
+house, with bottom heat, etc.:
+
+                                             _Days._
+  Ageratums                                   6 to 8
+  Amaranthus                                  6 "  8
+  Alyssum                                    10 " 12
+  Abutilon                                   12 " 15
+  Azalea                                     60 " 90
+  Begonias                                   12 " 15
+  Bouvardias                                 20 " 30
+  Clematis                                   30 " 40
+  Carnations                                 20 " 30
+  Cuphea (cigar plant)                        6 "  8
+  Chrysanthemums                             12 " 15
+  Centaurea                                  30 " 40
+  Coleus (all kinds)                          6 "  8
+  Dahlias                                    15 " 20
+  Eupatoriums                                15 " 20
+  Echeverias                                 30 " 40
+  Geraniums                                  12 " 15
+  Hibiscus                                   20 " 30
+  Heliotrope                                 12 " 15
+  Lobelia                                    12 " 15
+  Lantanas                                   12 " 15
+  Lavender                                   20 " 30
+  Mignonette                                 15 " 20
+  Myosotis                                   12 " 20
+  Nasturtium                                 10 " 12
+  Primroses                                  30 " 40
+  Pyrethrums                                 15 " 20
+  Poinsettia                                 30 " 40
+  Petunias                                   20 " 30
+  Roses                                      30 " 40
+  Oleander                                   30 " 40
+  Verbenas                                    6 "  8
+  Vinca                                      12 " 15
+
+All hardy shrubs, taken when the wood is green and young, may be
+propagated in like manner. The summer is the time to take off the wood
+for such cuttings.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+GRAFTING.
+
+
+Grafting is a simple art, that both old and young should become
+acquainted with and be able to perform. In my garden there had stood,
+for a number of years, away in a corner by itself, a wild apple tree,
+which had sprung up from the seed; it always bore fruit, but of a
+worthless character, so sour and insipid that even the swine refused to
+devour it when it was thrown to them. I became tired of seeing this
+tree, and resolved to change its nature. I went to work, being a
+nurseryman, and procured cions of ten or a dozen different sorts of
+apple trees, and took the first favorable opportunity in the spring to
+graft my old and useless apple tree. When I had finished grafting, I
+found that I had inserted here and there on the different branches,
+fifty cions, all of which, with the exception of three, lived, grew,
+bore fruit, each "after its own kind," Baldwins, Greenings,
+Gravensteins, Spitzenbergs, etc., and it is now the most desirable tree
+in the garden; I completely transformed the nature of the tree. Any one
+who understands grafting can do the same thing. Apple, Pear, Plum, and
+Cherry trees can be successfully top-grafted in the manner spoken of
+above, and the month of April is the best time to perform the operation.
+The outfit necessary to perform the operation of grafting is a small
+hand-saw, a hatchet, a wedge, grafting-knife, and wax to cover the
+wound.
+
+If the tree be a large one, and you wish to change the sort entirely,
+begin by sawing off all those limbs that, being removed, will leave
+enough to graft upon, and not spoil the symmetry of the tree. With the
+hand-saw saw off the limbs to be grafted about midway, then with the
+hatchet or wedge, cleave an opening in the remaining end of the limb,
+and entirely across, and deep enough to receive the cion; insert an iron
+in the cut to hold it open until the cion is placed, then withdraw the
+iron, and the graft will be held fast.
+
+The cions to be inserted should be cut before ascending the tree to
+graft, and, together with the wax, can be carried in a small basket for
+the purpose. If the diameter of the limb to be grafted is more than an
+inch, it is best to insert two grafts, placed so that each cion will
+stand near the edge of the cut, in juxtaposition with the bark of the
+limb. Immediately after setting the graft, plaster the cut over with a
+heavy coat of wax, being careful to leave no crack or crevice open
+through which it would be possible for air or water to enter. Each cion,
+in wedge-grafting, is cut in the shape of a wedge; the whole cion need
+not be over three to four inches in length. The following is a good
+receipe for making grafting-wax: One and a half pound of bees-wax, six
+pounds of resin, and one and a half pound rough beef tallow; put all
+into a pot, and boil one half hour, keeping it stirred; pour it out into
+a tub of cold water, and when it is sufficiently stiff it should be
+gathered into balls. When wanted for use the balls should be laid in
+warm water, which will readily soften the wax; work the wax with the
+hands thoroughly before using. Wedge-grafting is by no means the only
+way to graft, although it is about the only method of grafting large
+trees. There are from ten to twenty other modes of grafting, the
+difference being in the manner of cutting the cion, and in fitting it to
+the stock. To go into detail in regard to them would occupy too much
+space in these limited pages. Any one, with a little practice, can learn
+to cut a cion, and to graft with success.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+HANGING BASKETS.--WARDIAN CASES AND JARDINIERES.
+
+
+Hanging Baskets for plants are made of different materials, and in a
+great variety of forms. Some are made of wire, others of clay, and
+ornamented with fancy mouldings, etc. Very pretty baskets in rustic
+style are made by covering the outside of a wooden bowl with fantastic
+knots and roots; this makes a pleasing basket, but we know of none so
+desirable as the old style semi-globular wire basket, when properly
+filled.
+
+
+DIRECTIONS FOR FILLING HANGING BASKETS.
+
+To fill a wire basket, first obtain some of the green moss to be found
+on the lower portion of the trunks of trees in almost any shady piece of
+woods. This is to be used as a lining to the basket, turning the green
+side out, and entirely covering the inside of the wire form with the
+moss. Before filling the basket with soil, place a handful of charcoal
+or gravel in the bottom, which will hold the moisture. Fill the basket
+with rich, loose loam, such as will not harden by frequent waterings.
+
+Plants that are peculiarly suitable for hanging baskets are quite
+numerous, and from them a selection may be made that will please the
+most exacting taste.
+
+It is a mistake to crowd too many plants into a basket, if they grow
+they will soon become root-bound, stunted, and look sickly. If the
+hanging basket be of the ordinary size, one large and choice plant
+placed in the centre with a few graceful vines to droop over the edges,
+will have a better effect when established and growing, than if it were
+crowded with plants at the time of filling. Hanging baskets being
+constantly suspended, they are exposed to draughts of air from all
+sides, and the soil is soon dried out, hence careful watching is
+necessary in order to prevent the contents from becoming too dry. If the
+moss appears to be dry, take the basket down and dip it once or twice in
+a pail of water, this is better than sprinkling from a watering-pot. In
+filling hanging baskets, or vases of any kind, we invariably cover the
+surface of the soil with the same green moss used for lining, which,
+while it adds materially to the pleasing appearance of the whole, at the
+same time prevents the soil from drying out or becoming baked on the
+surface.
+
+The following is a list of choice plants suitable for hanging-baskets.
+Those marked thus (+) are fine for the centre, those marked thus (*)
+have handsome foliage, and this mark (**) indicates that the plants have
+flowers in addition to handsome foliage:
+
+  **Begonia glaucophylla scandens.
+   +Oxalis.
+  **Begonia Rex, very fine.
+   *Fittonia
+   +Cuphea platycentra (Cigar Plant).
+   +Pandanus (Screw Pine).
+   +Dracaena (Young's).
+   +Neirembergia.
+   +Centaurea gymnocarpa.
+  **Geraniums, Mrs. Pollock and Happy Thought.
+   *Tradescantia discolor.
+   *Peperomias.
+  **Gloxinias.
+   *Fancy Ferns.
+   +Ageratum (John Douglass, blue).
+   +Achyranthes.
+  **Variegated Hydrangea.
+   *Ficus Parcelli.
+  **Gesnerias.
+   *Variegated Grasses, etc., etc.
+
+  TRAILING PLANTS.
+
+  **Fuchsia, microphylla.
+    Sedum (Stone Crop).
+  **Ivy-leaved Geraniums.
+    German Ivy.
+    Indian Strawberry Vine.
+    Kenilworth Ivy.
+    Lycopodium.
+    Moneywort.
+  **Trailing Blue Lobelia.
+   *Cissus discolor.
+  **Lysimachia (Moneywort).
+  **Tropaeolums.
+  **Torrenia Asiatica.
+  **Mesembryanthemums (Ice Plant).
+  **Cobaea scandens.
+  **Pilogyne suavis.
+   +Lygodium scandens (Climbing Fern).
+
+
+WARDIAN CASES--JARDINIERES, ETC.
+
+A Wardian Case consists of a base, which is generally an oblong box,
+covered with a square glass frame, under which certain plants can be
+successfully grown. This is now considered by many to be a desirable
+ornament in the window-garden during the winter months. When neatly and
+artistically filled with suitable plants, a Wardian Case becomes a thing
+of beauty. These cases can be easily and cheaply made by any one
+possessed of ordinary mechanical skill. The base or box should be oblong
+in shape, at least eight inches deep, and lined inside with zinc or
+tin-plate, securely soldered to prevent the water and soil from staining
+the wood. A case made in this manner will endure a number of years
+without decaying. Over the case a square glass frame should be made to
+fit snugly; it should be from eighteen inches to two feet high, so as to
+allow the plants that are to grow under it plenty of room. When the case
+and frame are finished, the whole should be mounted upon a stand, or
+legs can be made with the case, under which are casters, by which to
+move it about easily. Before planting, make a small funnel hole through
+the bottom of the box, to allow the surplus water to escape rapidly, and
+before putting in the soil, cover the bottom of the box two inches deep
+with broken crocks or charcoal, or even gravel, to facilitate a rapid
+drainage, a matter absolutely essential to the healthy growth of the
+plants. Fill the box within an inch of the top with fine, rich, peaty
+loam, and all will be ready to receive the plants. Those suitable for
+growing in a case of this kind, should be such as will live and thrive
+in a moist, still atmosphere, and are of slow growth; all rampant,
+rank-growers must be discarded as being wholly unsuitable, as they would
+soon become of such proportions that they could not be confined in so
+limited a space. The following plants are eminently suited for Wardian
+Cases, Jardinieres, etc.; Fittonias (Gymnostachyum), Fancy Caladiums,
+Tradescantias, Cissus discolor, Gesnerias, some varieties of Crotons,
+Dwarf-growing Begonias, Fancy Ferns, Lycopods, etc., etc., are very
+suitable for this purpose. In arranging the plants in the case,
+particular care should be taken to have them so placed that the
+tallest-growing ones will be in the centre, and grading downward,
+according to size, the Lycopods being on the bottom. The whole surface
+of the soil may be covered with the trailing Lycopodium; by placing
+small pieces here and there, it will soon spread over the entire
+surface, making a beautiful ground work of purplish-green. Small,
+highly-colored sea-shells, and beautifully-colored pebbles, are
+scattered about among the plants, to enhance the beauty of the whole.
+After the case has been filled the soil should be thoroughly soaked with
+lukewarm water. Remove the case to a shady place for three or four days,
+to allow the plants to recuperate, after which it can be placed in the
+full light with safety. The lid or top should be lifted whenever there
+is excessive moisture on the inside, which will be indicated by the
+moisture trickling down on the inside of the glass. As a rule the plants
+should have fresh air, by lifting the lid for a few minutes each day,
+but beware of all cold draughts, or too much exposure to chilly
+atmospheres. Ordinarily, once a month is often enough to water, this
+must be governed by the circumstances, but they should never be allowed
+to become dry, remembering that as warmth, moisture, and a still
+atmosphere are secured, success will be certain.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+AQUATICS--WATER LILIES.
+
+
+The native Water Lilies that abound in many of our lakes, ponds, and
+rivers, are more or less familiar to all. They grow up year after year
+through the placid waters, unfolding their blossoms of spotless purity
+to the silent stars, and after a short while, disappear, to return at
+another favorable season. The American Water Lily, _Nymphaea odorata_,
+has flowers of a yellowish-white, and an odor that is peculiar and
+pleasant. The size of the flowers averages three to four inches across.
+This is by no means the only aquatic lily, for we have in cultivation
+quite a number of other choice and striking species quite different in
+leaf and flower from _N. odorata_. Among the most noticeable of these
+is, _N. rubra_, a native of India, which has flowers of a rosy-red,
+measuring from eight to ten inches in diameter, with scarlet stamens;
+the large leaves of this Water Lily turn to a gorgeous crimson color in
+the fall. There are also _N. Devonensis_, bearing flowers of a brilliant
+red, which often measure from twelve to fourteen inches across, are
+star-shaped, and very beautiful. _N. caerulea_, a native of Egypt, has
+light blue flowers, and light green leaves; the flowers are very
+fragrant. _N. flava_ has yellowish flowers, sometimes beautifully
+variegated with brown. There is quite a number of other interesting
+species, but those already mentioned are the best. The cultivation of
+Water Lilies is very simple, they can be grown with success in tubs or
+tanks, or in little artificial ponds, constructed to accommodate them. A
+hogshead sunk in the ground in the open air, in some sunny location,
+will answer to grow them in. Fill a hogshead half full of the compost
+recommended for aquatics, then set the plants in the compost, press
+down firmly, and fill the cask with pure water. If possible connect a
+flow and waste pipe with the barrel, to keep the water fresh, as this is
+highly essential in growing these plants in this manner.
+
+A Mr. Sturtevant, we believe, now of Burlington Co., N. J., is an
+enthusiast on the cultivation of Water Lilies, and no doubt an excellent
+authority, He has written some valuable hints on the culture of
+aquatics, from which we are tempted to quote. He says, "I will add here
+a few words on the possibilities of aquatic gardening. One argument in
+favor of cultivating tropical lilies in the open air is, that larger
+leaves and flowers are obtained, and in case of the colored kinds,
+greater depth of color than when under glass." And again, "Let us
+suppose that you wish to have an aquatic garden, fifty, sixty, or a
+hundred feet in diameter. We will not build it in the stiff form of a
+circle or oval. There is a small bay, across which we will throw a
+rustic bridge to a peninsula: somewhere on the margin we will build a
+rustic summer-house."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"Now let us suppose that all has been planted, and come to mid-summer
+perfection. Some morning, before the night-blooming lilies (there are
+varieties that bloom only in the night), have taken their mid-day sleep,
+let us ascend the tower, and take a view of the picture." He graphically
+describes the beauty of this miniature Eden, with all its rare and
+beautiful tropical plants, which certainly must be enchanting for any
+who love the beautiful. It is surprising that many people of ample
+means, and with good facilities for growing aquatics, and who have a
+taste for flowers, do not take more interest in domesticating these
+plants. Any one who keeps a gardener can have a very fine show of these
+beautiful flowers, and a comparatively small outlay will bring good
+results in a short time. Let those who can, try it.
+
+
+SOIL FOR GROWING AQUATIC PLANTS.
+
+The best soil for growing aquatics, is that obtained from the bed of a
+pond, or a slow, swampy stream, but when this is not readily obtainable,
+a mixture of equal parts of good, rich garden loam and stable manure
+will be almost as good. Some use a mixture of muck and bog peat, from
+which they claim very satisfactory results in growing aquatics; either
+we think can be used with good success.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+HARDY CLIMBING VINES.--IVIES.
+
+
+Hardy Climbing Vines seem to be in large demand in different sections of
+the country, either for training upon trellises as single specimens, or
+for training upon the side of the building, piazza, portico, or to
+screen unsightly places, etc. We select from a large number of hardy
+climbing vines the following sorts, which we think are the most
+desirable:
+
+  Wistaria, Chinese (blue and white).
+  Honeysuckles, Belgian.
+  Clematis Jackman's (purple).
+  Clematis Henry's (pure white).
+  Clematis, _viticella rubra grandiflora_ (red).
+  Virginia Creeper, _Ampelopsis quinquefolia_ (strong grower).
+  Japan Creeper, _Ampelopsis tricuspidata_, or _Veitchii_, of most catalogues.
+  Bignonia, Trumpet-Flower.
+  Rose, Baltimore Belle (white).
+  Rose, Queen of the Prairies (pink).
+
+All of the above named vines are strong, vigorous growers, perfectly
+hardy, and with the exception of the two Creepers, are handsome
+bloomers.
+
+
+IVIES--GROWING AND TRAINING.
+
+  "A dainty plant is the Ivy green,
+  That creepeth o'er ruins old."--Boz.
+
+The Ivy is one of the oldest and most venerable of all climbing shrubs,
+and is preeminently the poet's vine. In some of the older countries,
+especially in England, where the climate is particularly favorable to
+its growth, the Ivy is very attractive, and is said to reach the
+greatest perfection there. Travellers who have journeyed through that
+country, describe the old Ivy as clinging closely to, and completely
+covering the walls of ancient castles, and churches, and often it runs
+rampant over the fields, mounting stone walls, clinging to trees, etc.
+The Ivy in our climate is entirely hardy, enduring the severest winters
+without any protection. If the vine is allowed to grow over the walls of
+a dwelling, either on the inside, in a living-room, or on the outer
+walls of the building, is not only beautiful as an ornament of the home,
+but beneficial; in a sanitary point of view it is regarded as useful.
+Some plants of Ivy growing in the living and sleeping rooms, will do
+more to keep the atmosphere of the apartments pure and wholesome, than
+anything we can possibly imagine, and I recommend their more extensive
+cultivation in malarial localities. The Ivy may be easily cultivated
+from slips or layers. In soil, sand, or even in pure water, cuttings
+will root, and they will take up with almost any kind of soil, but that
+which can be easily kept loose, is preferable. The Ivy is partial to
+shade, and if it never saw the sun it would make no difference, as it
+would grow and flourish just the same. There is no sight more attractive
+in a window-garden than a fine Ivy vine trained up the casement, over
+the wall and ceiling; its dark, rich, glossy leaves, and thrifty look,
+make it an object to be admired. If grown in pots in the house, the soil
+will soon become exhausted, if the plant is growing rapidly, and it
+should be changed or enriched with decayed manure at least once each
+year, care being taken not to disturb the roots to a great extent. It is
+a mistake to allow Ivies too much pot-room, they will do better if the
+roots are considerably confined. Soap-suds or liquid manure if applied
+once a mouth when the plants are growing, will promote a luxuriant
+growth. When dust accumulates on the leaves, as it will, if grown
+in-doors, wash it off with a damp cloth or sponge; if this is long
+neglected, you need not be surprised if you soon discover the leaves to
+be covered with red-spider or scale-lice. Cold water is the best wash,
+when washing be sure and treat the underside of the leaves as well as
+the upper surface. I would recommend the "English Ivy" as being the best
+sort for general cultivation.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+ANNUAL FLOWERING PLANTS.--PANSY CULTURE.
+
+
+Annuals flower the same season the seeds are sown, perfect their seeds,
+and then die. "There is," says James Vick, "No forgotten spot in the
+garden, none which early flowering bulbs or other spring flowers have
+left unoccupied, that need remain bare during the summer. No bed but
+what can be made brilliant with these favorites, for there is no
+situation or soil in which some of these favorites will not flourish.
+Some delight in shade, others in sunshine; some are pleased with a cool,
+clay bed, while others are never so comfortable as in a sandy soil, or
+burning sun. The seed, too, is so cheap as to be within the reach of
+all, while a good collection of bedding plants would not come within the
+resources of many, and yet very few beds filled with expensive bedding
+plants look as well as a good bed of our best annuals, like Phlox,
+Petunia, or Portulaca, and for a vase or basket many of our annuals are
+unsurpassed. To annuals, also, we are indebted mainly for our brightest
+and best flowers in the late summer and autumn months.
+
+"Without the Phlox and Petunia, and Portulaca and Aster, and Stock, our
+autumn gardens would be poor indeed, and how we would miss the sweet
+fragrance of the Alyssum, Mignonette, and Sweet Pea, if any ill-luck
+should befall them, or deprive us of these sweet favorites!" Annuals are
+divided into three classes, hardy, half-hardy, and tender. The hardy
+annuals are those that, like the Larkspur, Candytuft, etc., may be sown
+in the autumn, or very early in the spring in the open ground. The
+half-hardy annuals should not be sown in the open ground until all
+danger of frost is over. The Balsams and Marigolds belong to this class.
+The tender annuals generally require starting in a green-house, or
+hot-bed, to bring them to perfection, and should not be set in the open
+ground until the weather is fine and warm, some time in June. From a
+perplexing number to be found in plant catalogues, we select the
+following twelve sorts of annuals as being the most desirable for the
+garden; they are a galaxy of gems, indeed:
+
+  Asters,
+  Balsams,
+  Phlox Drummondii,
+  Double Petunias,
+  Pansies,
+  Double Sweet Alyssum,
+  Double White Pyrethrum,
+  Dwarf Ageratum,
+  Verbenas,
+  Salvias,
+  Double Stocks,
+  Celosias (Coxcomb).
+
+Sow the seed in the open ground the latter part of May, and the first of
+July most of the sorts will be in bloom, and they will continue to
+bloom until arrested by frosts.
+
+
+PANSY CULTURE.
+
+Pansies are old and popular favorites, they embrace varieties with
+variously-colored flowers, from almost jet black, to pure white and
+yellow. They are easily grown from seed. The general custom is to sow
+Pansy seed in the fall, but we are in favor of spring sowing. We have
+tried sowing seed at both seasons, and find that plants grown from
+spring-sown seed bloom more freely throughout the hot months of summer,
+while plants raised by fall sowing become exhausted, and cease flowering
+much sooner. Seed sown in March, in light, rich soil, will make fine
+blooming plants the same season. Pansies are hardy, if they have good
+protection with a litter of leaves or straw, or any light covering,
+which should be removed very early in the spring, or as soon as danger
+of heavy frosts is over. Plants remaining in ground through the winter,
+if proper care is given them, will bloom very early in the spring, as
+soon as the frost is out of the ground. We have even seen the frail
+blossoms peeping up through the snow, but the plants become exhausted
+and cease flowering before mid-summer. It is possible to have them bloom
+throughout the entire winter by taking up old plants from the open
+ground in October, and carefully planting them in a tight, cold frame in
+a sheltered location, covering the frame with glazed sash. This is often
+done by florists whose trade demands the flowers at that season of the
+year, and especially early in spring. Treated thus, they flower
+abundantly. The same can be done with Violets. Pansies require a partial
+shade and a good, rich, loamy soil, and an occasional watering through
+the dry season will help them.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+FALL OR HOLLAND BULBS.
+
+
+That class of bulbs known as Fall, or Holland Bulbs, includes Hyacinths,
+Crocuses, Jonquils, Tulips, Narcissuses, Snow-drops, and several less
+known kinds. These bulbs are grown in Holland in immense quantities, the
+soil and climate of that country being peculiarly favorable to them, and
+they are annually imported into this country in great numbers. The fall
+is the time to set them out; any time from the first of October, to the
+middle of December. Tulips, Jonquils, Narcissuses, and Hyacinths, should
+be planted four inches deep, and eight inches apart each way; the
+Snow-drops and Crocuses two inches deep, and six inches apart.
+
+All of the above named bulbs are entirely hardy, and will stand in the
+ground without any surface protection through the severest winters. Some
+go to the trouble of covering the surface with leaves or other litter
+for protection, but this is entirely unnecessary. A very pretty effect
+may be had, where one has a large number of bulbs, by selecting the
+different colors and planting each color in a row by itself, so that
+when they blossom, it will be in ribbon-lines of red, white, blue, or
+yellow, as the case may be. Or, if one has a large number of beds of
+different shapes, cut so as to form a design of some kind, each section
+may be planted with a different color (Hyacinths are the best for this
+work), and when all come into bloom in April, the effect will be most
+charming. We tried this "massing" of the differently colored bulbs one
+year, in a "design" of one hundred different sections of all conceivable
+shapes. Planting the bulbs so that, when in blossom, the whole would
+present a harmonious effect. It would be hard to conceive of a more
+attractive sight than that presented by all those bulbs in full bloom
+in early April, when every thing else looked barren and cheerless. They
+were admired by every one who saw them. Bulbs of this character bloom
+and pass away in season to allow room for other plants to be set out.
+These may be set between the rows of bulbs, and not disturb them in the
+least. Any of the above named bulbs are especially desirable for house
+culture in winter. Make an oblong box, say four feet in length, fifteen
+inches wide, and twelve deep, fill this with fine, rich loam, then plant
+a row of Hyacinths in the centre, and on each side of this plant a row
+of either Snow-drops or Crocuses, water thoroughly, and set away in a
+dark, cool place. In three weeks remove the box into the full light, and
+water freely, they will grow and bloom throughout the winter. If the box
+can be set near a front window, it will make a pretty display while the
+bulbs are in bloom.
+
+These bulbs can be started in pots, or glasses filled with water, and
+treated in the same manner as stated above. Place a single bulb of
+Hyacinth in each pot or glass. Four-inch pots filled nearly to the top
+with soil, and the bulbs set in and pressed down, so that nothing but
+the crown is above ground, are all that is necessary. The same bulbs can
+be used a number of years, but they are not so good as fresh ones, which
+should be obtained each year if possible. After the bulbs are through
+blooming, they may be left in the soil in which they grew through the
+winter, and removed to a dry place to rest, in preparation for starting
+them another fall. If fresh bulbs are desired for this purpose, the old
+ones may be planted out in the open ground, where they will again renew
+their strength, and bloom annually for a number of years. They are
+multiplied from the seed and from offshoots.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+TROPICAL BULBS.--TUBEROSES.
+
+
+Gladioluses, Tuberoses, Cannas, and Caladiums, come under this head, and
+are the best known of this class of bulbs. They are not hardy, and the
+slightest frost will injure them more or less. It is customary to allow
+tender bulbs of this kind to rest during the winter, the same as one
+would an onion. They can be safely kept through the winter under the
+staging of the green-house, in a dry, frost-proof cellar, where there is
+plenty of light, or in any other place where potatoes can be safely
+stored. Tropical bulbs of all kinds are much benefited by planting them
+in good, light, loamy soil, well enriched with well-rotted stable
+manure. They may be planted out in the open ground as soon as it can be
+worked in the spring, and all danger from heavy frosts is over. Any of
+the above named bulbs of ordinary size, should be planted at least from
+three to four inches deep, and from six to eight inches deep when the
+bulbs are of extra size. I am in favor of planting these bulbs in the
+open ground much earlier than most gardeners are in the habit of doing.
+Experience has shown me that the earlier in spring those summer bulbs
+are set out in the open ground, the better. Just as soon as the ground
+is in good condition to work, spade it up deeply, and plant the bulbs;
+the roots will soon begin to develop in the cool ground, before the tops
+start to grow, which is the true principle in growing all plants. They
+will thus receive a fine start before hot weather sets in. We have had
+Tuberoses and Gladioluses to bloom much earlier than usual, and much
+more continuously throughout the summer and fall, as the result of
+planting them as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring. If a
+continuation of bloom is desired, the bulbs should be planted at
+successive intervals of not less then three weeks; this will give a
+sucession of bloom throughout the entire season. In the fall remove the
+bulbs from the ground as soon as the tops have been touched by frost,
+cutting the stalk off to within a couple of inches of the base, and
+setting the bulbs away to rest for the winter.
+
+
+TUBEROSES.
+
+No collection of garden flowers is complete without the Tuberose. For
+the spotless purity of its flowers, and for incomparable fragrance, it
+has no superior. It is very easy to grow them successfully. Bulbs
+intended for fall blooming, should be planted in the open ground from
+the first to the middle of May; plant them about two inches deep. They
+will do well in any good, rich garden soil, if the soil is occasionally
+moved around them with the rake or hoe, after they are up and growing.
+Such treatment will cause the bulbs to grow rapidly, and the flower
+trusses, when they come into bloom, will consequently be much larger and
+finer. As the Tuberose is not hardy in our Northern climates, the bulbs
+should be dug up in the fall, the tops or stalks removed to within two
+or three inches of the bulbs, which should then be laid away in some
+dry, warm place, a dry and frost-proof cellar will do, or better yet,
+store them if possible, under the staging of a green-house. In the
+spring, before planting, remove all the young offsets from around the
+parent bulb; there are usually a number of young shoots clinging to it,
+and as the old bulb blooms but once, and only once, it is henceforth
+good for nothing, save for the production of more bulbs, if desired.
+
+The young offshoots of the first season's growth will not become
+blooming bulbs until the third year, but if you have quite a number of
+young bulbs, say twenty-five or fifty, there will naturally be a number
+that will bloom in rotation, from year to year, and give some bloom
+each season. Some enterprising florists have Tuberoses nearly the whole
+year round. In order to do this, the bulbs must be "started" in pots;
+the bulbs are potted in the usual manner, so that the top, or crown of
+the bulb, when potted, will just show above the soil, and they should be
+kept rather dry until they show signs of growing, when they can be
+watered freely and set in a warm place. Of course bulbs intended for
+winter blooming must rest, or be kept from growing during the summer,
+and bulbs to be in bloom in April or May, must be started in January or
+February in pots. Tuberoses are rapidly productive; ten old bulbs having
+been known to produce one hundred young offshoots in one season. There
+are many "fine points" in growing Tuberoses, but the instruction here
+given will enable any one to grow them successfully.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+ROSES--CULTIVATION AND PROPAGATING.
+
+
+The Rose is preeminently the Queen of Flowers. It has no rival in the
+floral kingdom, and will always stand at the head in the catalogue of
+Flora's choicest gems. To it alone belongs that subtle perfume that
+captivates the sense of smell, and that beauty of form and color so
+pleasing to the eye. Add to all this, it is one of the easiest plants to
+cultivate, as it will grow and flower in almost any soil or climate,
+requiring but little care and attention as compared with many other
+favorites of the garden. There has been great improvement made in Roses
+in the last twenty years by skillful cultivators in this country and in
+Europe, and from a few common sorts formerly grown, many hundred choice
+and desirable varieties have been produced, and to-day the choice
+cultivated varieties are very numerous. These differ in respect to
+hardiness, habit of growth, and peculiar characteristics of blooming,
+and for these reasons cultivators have grouped them into several
+distinct classes, each class differing in certain characteristics from
+the others.
+
+
+TEA ROSES.
+
+The Roses best adapted for in-door culture belong to the class known as
+Tea Roses; these are tender, of a bushy growth, and if properly treated,
+will bloom the year round; the flowers have a strong tea-scent.
+
+Tea Roses can be cultivated out-of-doors with success, but they must be
+taken up in the fall and removed in-doors. We know it is the custom of
+some gardeners to lay the bushes down in the fall, and cover them with
+earth and leaves; while in some cases this may preserve them, it cannot
+be depended on as a rule. To keep up a steady bloom, pinch off all
+flowers as soon as they begin to fade. It is best to not let the buds
+open fully while on the bush, but they should be cut in the bud, and
+placed in a vase of water, where they will expand and keep for a long
+while. All dead leaves and flower stems should be carefully removed, and
+the surface of the soil in the pots should be stirred up occasionally
+with a stick, this will keep the plants in a growing condition, and if
+they can be kept growing, they will bloom continuously.
+
+The following varieties of Tea Roses are in every respect among the best
+for house culture:
+
+_Bon Silene._--Flowers purplish-carmine; highly scented.
+
+_Niphetos._--Pure white, magnificent long buds; an incessant bloomer.
+
+_Perle de Jardins._--Sulphur-yellow, full and double; a splendid rose.
+
+_La France_ (Bourbon).--Bright lilac-rose, fine form; perpetual bloomer,
+half hardy.
+
+_Hermosa_ (Bourbon).--Light rose-color, cupped-shaped; a most perpetual
+bloomer.
+
+
+HYBRID PERPETUAL, AND MOSS ROSES.
+
+Both of the above classes are entirely distinct from either the Tea,
+Noisette, or Bourbon Roses; they are entirely hardy, exceedingly
+free-bloomers in their season--from June to July; their flowers have a
+delightful perfume, and are noted for the richness and variety of their
+colors. They require to be closely pruned annually. The spring is the
+most desirable time to prune. They should have a top-dressing of manure
+every fall. The ground should be kept well shaded around their roots in
+summer. They require a strong, rich soil to make them flower well. These
+roses are not desirable for house culture. The following are among the
+best varieties of the Hybrid Perpetual, or Remontant Roses:
+
+_Gen. Jacqueminot._--Brilliant crimson-scarlet; magnificent buds.
+
+_La Reine._--Deep rosy-pink; an ideal rose.
+
+_Coquette des Alps._--White; blooms in clusters.
+
+_Black Prince._--Blackish-crimson; large, full, and globular.
+
+_Victor Verdier._--Rich deep-rose; elegant buds.
+
+
+MOSS ROSES.
+
+Of this class we need not speak in detail to any who have ever seen its
+delicate moss-covered buds, and inhaled their delightful odor. They are
+perfectly hardy, and can be wintered without any protection. They are
+called perpetual, but this is a misnomer, for we know but one variety of
+Moss Rose that approaches it, that is the _Salet_ Moss. The rest are no
+more so than are the so-called Hybrid Perpetuals.
+
+Moss Roses should be severely pruned in spring, removing all the old
+wood.
+
+_Salet_, deep pink; _White Perpetual_, pure white; and _Crested_,
+rose-color, are the most desirable sorts.
+
+
+PROPAGATING THE ROSE.
+
+The Rose is somewhat difficult to propagate from cuttings, and it takes
+from three to four weeks for them to root under the best conditions.
+Moss Roses are generally multiplied by layering (see "Layering"), and by
+budding on the common Manetti or Multiflora stocks. The following will
+be found to be a very practicable and simple method of propagating roses
+on a small scale, and is attended with very little trouble or expense:
+In the fall place sand in a box, or cold frame, to the depth of eight
+inches. Take from the bushes the number of cuttings it is desired to
+propagate, making them with two or three points or eyes; insert them in
+the sand (which should be previously packed as solid as can be), then
+water thoroughly. As the cuttings are to remain in this frame all
+winter, it should be provided with a glass sash, and the whole covered
+with leaves and manure. It need not be banked up until freezing weather.
+If rightly done, we may expect at the least fifty per cent of the
+cuttings to come from their winter bed finely rooted. They should then
+be potted, and after growing awhile, planted out, and some of them will
+bloom the first season.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+JAPAN AND OTHER LILIES.--CALLA LILIES.
+
+
+If we call the rose the "Queen of Flowers," what royal title shall we
+bestow upon the beautiful Japan Lilies? We sometimes think it would be
+proper to name the Rose the King, for its commanding aspect, and the
+grandly beautiful Lily, the Queen of the floral kingdom. But, be this as
+it may, we have only to gaze upon a collection of Japan Lilies when in
+full bloom, and inhale their delicious odor, that perfumes the whole
+atmosphere, to be convinced of their superiority over all other flowers.
+Surely Solomon in all his glory was not arrayed like one of these.
+
+There are many different species and varieties of Lilies, but none
+approach those known as Japan Lilies in the beauty and variety of their
+flowers, and their exquisite fragrance. They are perfectly hardy, and
+the fall is the proper time to plant them. If good strong bulbs are set
+out in the ground in October or November, planted about eight inches
+deep, they will throw up strong shoots the following summer, and bloom
+freely. The flowers increase in size and beauty with the age of the
+bulb, and this should be left to grow undisturbed in the same spot for
+five or six years; afterwards, if desired, the bulbs can be dug up, the
+offshoots removed, and the old bulbs reset, and they will do better than
+ever. Any of the young bulbs that have been removed can be planted out
+in the ground, and in a few years will form good blooming bulbs. The
+time to perform this work is in the fall. Although entirely hardy
+without protection, it will benefit these lilies very much, if during
+the winter, they are covered with a coarse litter, leaves or any other
+good covering. This should be raked off early in the spring, as manure
+of any kind seems to injure them when they come in contact with it. The
+soil in which they do best is a light, sandy loam, well drained. The
+lily flourishes best in sunny locations. The following is a description
+of the leading varieties:
+
+LILIUM AURATUM.--This is the well-known Gold-banded Lily, and most
+decidedly the finest of all the Japan Lilies.
+
+L. CANDIDUM.--The old White Lily (not Japan) of the gardens; a splendid
+sort; elegant, large, pure white flowers, in clusters; blooms earlier
+than the others, but not the first year; it is one of the most beautiful
+Lilies.
+
+L. CITRINUM.--Very rare and beautiful; large, elegantly formed flowers;
+color, pale yellow, exquisitely tinged with blush.
+
+L. LONGIFLORUM.--Exceedingly beautiful; very long trumpet-shaped
+flowers, pure snow white.
+
+L. SPECIOSUM RUBRUM.--One of the finest of Japan Lilies; bright crimson
+and white spotted; splendid large flower, borne in clusters, stem two to
+three feet.
+
+L. TIGRINUM--SINGLE TIGER LILY.--This splendid Lily is one of the best
+in the list; the stem is tall; the flowers large and elegantly formed;
+blooms in large clusters; color, brilliant orange scarlet with intense
+black spots; remains in bloom a long time.
+
+L. UMBELATUM.--Very showy, brilliant red, variegated flowers in
+clusters.
+
+
+THE CALLA LILY.
+
+The Calla Lily, or "The Lily of the Nile," is an old and popular
+favorite, and is found in window-garden collections everywhere. It is a
+native of the tropics, where it is said it grows to an enormous size; a
+single flower often measuring one to two feet in diameter. The Calla
+will attain its highest perfection if planted in a rich, mucky soil,
+obtained from a swamp or bog. It also requires an abundance of water
+during the growing season. Callas, like all other bulbous plants, must
+have a season of rest. If required to bloom during the winter or spring
+months, they must be rested in the summer season, if this is not done we
+must not expect to have any success in flowering them. The blooming
+season can be reversed if desired, by resting in winter. Without
+allowing them at least three months of rest, it is useless to expect to
+flower them successfully. By "resting," we mean to withhold water, and
+allow the leaves and stalks to die down completely to the bulb. Then
+turn the pot on its side under a tree or grape-arbor, and let the soil
+dry up completely; this will kill the stalk but not injure the bulb.
+
+
+HOW TO PREPARE CALLAS FOR WINTER BLOOMING.
+
+After three months of this rest; or about the first of October, we
+"dump" out the plant, shake off all the old soil from the bulb or bulbs,
+and re-pot in fine, rich soil, using pots one size larger than those
+used the previous year; place the plants in a cool, shady spot, and
+water freely. Let them remain for two or three weeks, until new roots
+have formed, after which all danger is passed, and they can be removed
+into full light and heat. When growing, water freely. An application of
+strong liquid-manure once a week will add greatly to the growth of the
+plants, and to the number of blossoms produced. A very pretty effect can
+be obtained by arranging the plants about a fountain or pond where they
+will bloom freely throughout the summer season, presenting a tropical
+appearance. They will also grow well by standing the pots completely in
+the water.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+GERANIUMS--THE BEST TWELVE SORTS.
+
+
+There is no flower that can surpass the Geranium for profusion of bloom,
+brilliancy and variety of color, and general adaptability for house
+culture. The following are the best twelve sorts:
+
+
+DOUBLE VARIETIES.
+
+Madam Ballet, pure white; Jewel, dark crimson; Asa Gray, salmon, very
+free bloomer; Madam Lemoine, light pink, large trusses; Bishop Wood,
+rich scarlet, approaching to carmine; Charmieux, scarlet; Casimer
+Perrier, a very near approach to yellow
+
+
+SINGLE VARIETIES.
+
+New Life, variegated, crimson, and white; Gen. Grant, dazzling scarlet;
+Pauline Lucca, pure white, with pink-eye; Chief Justice, the darkest of
+all Geraniums, immense trusses; Pinafore, salmon, with white eye; La
+Vienne, pure white, pale stamens, splendid; Master Christine, light
+pink, elegant for bedding.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII.
+
+AZALEAS; HOW TO CULTIVATE THEM.
+
+
+Comparatively few of these charming plants are to be seen outside of
+green-houses and private conservatories, we know not for what reasons,
+unless it be the erroneous idea that they cannot be successfully grown
+unless one has the facilities of the florist. I think there is no class
+of plants more easy of culture, when the manner of treating them is once
+understood, than Azaleas. As they are decidedly winter-flowering plants,
+generally coming into bloom from December to March and April, they must
+be treated as such. They should have the same kind of treatment during
+the summer as recommended for Camellias, allowing them to rest in some
+cool, shady spot out-of-doors, during which period the flowering shoots
+will grow that are to give the bloom through the winter months. They can
+be taken into the house any time in the fall before freezing weather,
+and they will thrive well in an atmosphere suited to the generality of
+plants, although to bring the bloom out to the best, an atmosphere of
+55 deg. is needed.
+
+There are over one hundred distinct varieties, ranging from pure white
+to lilac-purple, scarlet and pink, and when in full bloom the entire
+plant might be easily mistaken for a large bouquet, so literally covered
+is it with dazzling blossoms.
+
+One or two varieties of Azaleas should grace every collection; almost
+every florist keeps them in stock, and the price asked is but a small
+consideration compared with the amount of pleasure one will derive by
+having them in full bloom himself.
+
+Florists hardly ever attempt to multiply the Azaleas from cuttings, on
+account of the hardness of the wood, but the common mode of multiplying
+them is by grafting on the stock of the Wild Azalea, plants being easily
+and quickly obtained through this method. The Azalea will flourish best
+with a rich, mucky loam, a rather shady locality, and an abundance of
+water.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+CAMELLIAS.--ORANGE AND LEMON TREES.
+
+
+Dear reader, did you ever see a large Camellia plant in full blossom? If
+you have not, I will risk my reputation by saying that all other flowers
+within my knowledge, barring the rose, dwindle into insignificance when
+compared with it. It excels the finest rose in doubleness and form of
+its flowers, and puts the virgin lily to shame for spotless purity and
+whiteness; if it only possessed fragrance, it would be unquestionably
+the Queen of the floral world. What I shall have to say in regard to
+this plant, I hope will have the effect of introducing it into many
+homes where it has hitherto been little known. Few outside of
+professional florists have undertaken to cultivate the Camellia, for the
+reason, we suppose, that it is thought to be quite an impossibility to
+raise and bloom it successfully outside of a green-house; this is a
+mistake, although many believe it otherwise. I contend that Camellias
+can be as easily and as successfully grown in the window-garden as the
+Rose or Geranium.
+
+Camellias bloom in the winter, and at no other season of the year.
+Plants should be purchased of the florist in the fall or early in
+winter, and such plants as have flower-buds already formed; those
+plants, if kept in the right atmosphere, will bloom profusely, but they
+must have an atmosphere of 50 deg. until the buds are all expanded, after
+which there will be no danger of the flowers blasting. As soon as the
+bloom has all passed off, the plants should be taken from their cool
+quarters, and placed with the other plants in a warm temperature, and
+watered freely, to encourage a vigorous growth previous to removing them
+out-of-doors in the spring. As soon as all danger of heavy frosts is
+over in the spring, the plants should be taken from the house and
+removed to some shady location, under a grape-arbor, in a pit or frame
+covered with shades; here leave them standing in the pots "plunging" the
+pots in earth or sand to prevent too rapid drying out.
+
+The summer is the period in which the flower-buds are formed that bloom
+in winter; the plants should be kept growing, and watered freely
+throughout the summer. They must be left out-of-doors as long as the
+weather will permit, but, on the approach of frost, take the plants into
+the house, and let them stand in a cool room, where the temperature is
+not over 50 deg.. This is the critical time, for if they are removed into a
+warm temperature of 70 deg. or 80 deg., the buds will all blast and drop off,
+and no flowers will be produced.
+
+If the plants are large and well-budded, a succession of bloom will be
+yielded throughout the entire winter. There are a number of varieties,
+embracing colors from red, pink, variegated, etc., to the purest
+waxy-white. The Double White Camellia Japonica, the white sort, is the
+most valuable for its bloom, the flowers being sometimes four to five
+inches in diameter, exceedingly double, with the petals imbricated, and
+of a waxy texture, and are highly prized by florists, who often charge
+as high as one dollar per flower for them. They are invaluable for
+funeral occasions, when pure white flowers are required. Plants are
+multiplied by either grafting or budding them on the common stock; it is
+almost impossible to raise plants from cuttings; they are slower than
+the Azalea to take root.
+
+
+ORANGE AND LEMON TREES.
+
+Both Orange and Lemon trees can be easily raised by sowing the seeds in
+good, rich soil, and after the seedlings become of sufficient size, a
+foot to fifteen inches high, they should be budded or grafted, otherwise
+blossoms and fruit cannot be expected. In the tropical climes, where
+these fruits are grown, there are varieties that spring up from the
+seeds of sweet oranges, called naturals; these yield a fruit that is
+edible, but is of an insipid taste. In no case can we obtain edible
+fruit of either Oranges or Lemons, budded or unbudded, in northern
+climates. The best time to bud these trees is when the seedlings are
+about a year old. They can be budded in the same manner as other trees,
+and as a rule, the buds take readily if the stock is in the right
+condition. Some graft them, but buds take better than grafts, and grow
+more rapidly. If the budding is successful, and the bud looks fresh and
+green in two weeks after it has been inserted, the union has taken
+place. The stock may then be cut off within two inches of the bud, and
+after the bud has started to grow, cut the stub still lower down, close
+to the bud. One bud in each stock is better than three or four. The soil
+best adapted to these trees is a rich, mucky loam. They should have
+plenty of pot room when growing, and, if possible, a warm, moist
+atmosphere.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+FUCHSIAS--TRAINING AND MANAGEMENT
+
+
+We confess to have a special liking for the Fuchsias, and think no
+assortment of house plants is complete without one or two varieties of
+these beautiful flowers. They are easily propagated, either from
+cuttings or by layers, and the amount of bloom one strong, healthy plant
+is capable of producing under favorable circumstances, is truly
+wonderful. Upon one plant of Fuchsia speciosa, started from a cutting of
+a single eye in March, we counted at one time, in the December
+following, one hundred and fifty perfect blossoms. The plant stood in an
+eight-inch pot, and measured four feet in hight. Some kinds do better as
+house plants than others, among the best are _F. speciosa_, _F.
+fulgens_, and the Rose of Castile, and I would particularly recommend
+these sorts as superior to all others for the window-garden. The right
+kind of soil has everything to do with success in growing fine Fuchsias;
+it should be of a light peaty quality, with one-third cow manure, and
+thoroughly mixed together until well decayed. They also relish an
+abundance of water; and if they have, while growing, an application of
+liquid manure once or twice a week, it will be beneficial; never allow
+the roots to become potbound, but when the roots begin to form a mat on
+the outside of the ball of earth, it is time to shift the plant into a
+pot of the next larger size, and so on as the plant requires it. This is
+a very important point, and should not be overlooked if strong, healthy
+plants are expected.
+
+Fuchsias are especially desirable for training on trellises. They can be
+trained over an upright trellis, and have a very pretty effect, but the
+best form is that of an umbrella. Secure a strong, vigorous plant, and
+allow one shoot to grow upright until about two feet high, then pinch
+off the top of the shoot. It will branch out and form a head, each shoot
+of which, when sufficiently long, may have a fine thread or hair-wire
+attached to the tip, by which to draw it downward; fasten the other end
+of the wire or thread to the stem of the plant, and all the shoots will
+then be pendent. When each of these branches has attained a length of
+eight inches, pinch off the tip, and the whole will form a dense head,
+resembling an umbrella in shape, and the graceful flowers pendent from
+each shoot will be handsome indeed. Remember to keep the stock clear of
+side-shoots, in order to throw the growth into the head.
+
+If properly taken care of, most Fuchsias will bloom the year round, but
+some kinds can be especially recommended for winter blooming, among them
+are _F. speciosa_, flesh-colored, with scarlet corolla; _F.
+serratifolia_, orange-scarlet corolla, greenish sepals; Meteor, deep-red
+corolla, light-pink sepals. The following are the finest in every
+respect that the market affords: Mrs. Bennett, pink; Sir Cohn Campbell,
+double blue; Rose of Castile, single violet; Elm City, double scarlet;
+Carl Holt, crimson; Tower of London, double blue; Wave of Life, foliage
+yellow, corolla violet; _F. speciosa_, single, flesh-colored, and _F.
+fulgens_, long red corolla.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXV.
+
+CACTUSES.--NIGHT-BLOOMING CEREUS.--REX BEGONIAS.
+
+
+For singularity and grotesqueness of form, as well as for the
+exceptional conditions under which they grow to the best advantage, no
+class of plants is more remarkable than the _Cactaceae_. Of these, about
+a thousand species have been described by botanists; nearly all are
+indigenous to the New World, though but a small proportion are in
+cultivation. Cactuses delight in a dry, barren, sandy soil. They are
+naturally children of the desert. It is said by travellers that many of
+the species bear edible fruit, resembling somewhat in taste the
+gooseberry. So much for the peculiarities of the Cactus family in its
+native localities, but how can we succeed in cultivating the plants with
+satisfactory results in the window-garden?
+
+There are two simple methods of treatment that Cactuses should receive,
+namely: First, keep the soil about them constantly dry, and keep them
+in a warm place. Secondly, the soil should be of a poor quality, mixed
+with a little brick dust, and they should never be allowed too much pot
+room. If either of these two points are observed in the treatment of
+Cactuses, there will be no difficulty in keeping them in a flourishing
+condition all the time.
+
+
+THE NIGHT-BLOOMING CEREUS.
+
+The Night-blooming Cereus is an interesting plant, and excites much
+admiration when in flower, as it blooms at night-time only, the flowers
+closing up when exposed to the day-light. They are magnificent flowers
+when in full blow, but, unhappily, are short-lived, a flower never
+opening a second time. The plant belongs to the Cactus Family, and
+requires the same general treatment. There are a number of
+night-flowering species and varieties, but the one especially known as
+the Night-blooming Cereus is _Cereus grandiflorus_, which, when in full
+bloom, presents a rare sight. Some of the flowers of the night-blooming
+kinds are exceedingly fragrant, notably _Cereus triangularis_, a single
+flower of which, when in fall bloom, will fill the air of a room with
+its pleasant odor. These plants can be made to bloom freely by keeping
+the soil quite dry, and allowing them very little pot-room, as they
+depend more upon the atmosphere than the soil for their growth. We have
+known large plants of _Cereus grandiflorus_, to produce as many as
+twenty-five fine blossoms each in the course of a season. We have found
+that liquid manure, if applied to these plants about once a month, and
+when the soil about them is very dry, will work wonders in their growth,
+and when a rapid growth can be obtained, there will be no trouble in
+having an abundance of flowers at regular intervals. Care must be taken
+not to have the liquid too strong. A small quantity of brick dust,
+mixed with the soil in which they are growing, will be beneficial. These
+species of Cereus are easily propagated by cuttings, which will root
+readily in sand of any kind. Being of a slender habit of growth, and
+rather rampant, they should have some sort of support, and it is
+advisable to either train them to a trellis, or upon wires, or a string
+stretched over and along the window sash. We have had a number of
+flowers of a pure feathery white, _C. grandiflorus_, that were over
+fifteen inches in diameter; this is the best of the night-flowering
+species.
+
+
+PROPAGATING REX BEGONIAS.
+
+Those Begonias, known as belonging to the Rex division, are very
+beautiful, and also very distinct in both leaf and flower from all other
+species and varieties. The leaves are noted for their peculiar shape and
+markings, making them very valuable as ornamental house plants. They are
+easily multiplied from the leaf with its stalk. To propagate these, the
+leaf, or leaves, including the stalk, should be taken off close to the
+plant. Insert the stem of the leaf in sand, and deep enough to allow the
+leaf to lie flat upon the surface of the sand. It will take them about
+from two to three weeks to root, after which they should be potted in
+good, rich soil. It will take sometime to start them into a growth, but
+they grow very rapidly when they begin, and in two years will make large
+plants.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+ROCKERIES--HOW TO MAKE THEM.
+
+
+Many have a taste for forming grotesque pieces of rock work, selecting
+therefor such oddly-shaped and variously-colored rocks as may be
+gathered near the locality; these are generally piled in the form of a
+pyramid in a conspicuous place on the lawn, and if nicely arranged,
+cannot be surpassed in attractiveness, and are in pleasing contrast with
+the flower-beds and shrubbery. Some prefer to have merely the bare rocks
+heaped into a pile, which will appear grotesque and rugged; others set
+out suitable plants, and train vines to creep over them. We think the
+latter the best method, where common rocks are used, but if one is
+fortunate enough to live in a locality where a large number of
+variously-colored rocks can be obtained, their natural colors when
+arranged will make them highly attractive. One of the finest pieces of
+work of this kind we ever saw, was formed of a number of rocks gathered
+from almost every country on the globe, each stone having a peculiar
+tint of its own. On the top of this valuable pile was a rare specimen of
+Red Rock obtained from Siberia, in the region of eternal frost.
+
+
+HOW TO MAKE A ROCKERY.
+
+Having selected a site in a partly shaded spot, we will then proceed to
+form a mound of earth which may be drawn to the spot for the purpose if
+necessary. Upon and around this mound the rocks are to be placed, one
+layer thick, leaving here and there between them a small crevice in
+which to plant vines, or to drop a few seeds. The top of the heap may be
+left open, to allow of setting out, either in a pot or planted out in
+the earth, a choice specimen plant. Among the plants the most
+appropriate for the centre are: _Eulalia Japonica variegata_, and
+_Zebrina_. A variegated Agave may appropriately occupy the place, or
+some of the tall native wild ferns. A narrow circle may be cut around
+the base of the rockery, six or eight inches wide; after this is spaded
+up a row of blue Lobelia may be planted around the whole circle. Instead
+of the Lobelia, a row of _Echeveria secunda glauca_, or of the
+Mountain-of-Snow Geranium would look very finely. It may be well to
+mention here a number of the plants most appropriate for rockeries. Who
+is not familiar with the Moneywort, with its low-trailing habit and
+small yellow flowers? It is peculiarly adapted for rockeries. Portulaca,
+Paris Daisy (_Chrysanthemum frutescens_), _Myosotis_ (Forget-me-not),
+are among the most popular plants for rockeries. The small Sedum or
+Stone Crop (_Sedum acre_), is an interesting and useful little plant,
+growing freely on rock or rustic work. As vines are much used for such
+places, we will mention as the best hardy vines for this purpose
+Veitch's _Ampelopsis_ (_A. tricuspidata_), English or Irish Ivy, and the
+so-called running Myrtle. The above are entirely hardy and will stand
+any amount of freezing without injury.
+
+The following vines, although not hardy, are much used for rockeries:
+Thunbergias, Tropaeolums, Kenilworth Ivy, and the German Ivy (_Senecio
+scandens_). Where a rockery is formed in the midst of a pond of water,
+as is often done, plants of the kind mentioned will not flourish so well
+as those of a semi-aquatic nature, such as Caladiums, Callas, some
+Ferns, Cannas, and Lycopodiums, all of which will flourish in moist
+places.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVII.
+
+BUDDING.
+
+
+Budding as an art is simple, useful, and easily acquired by any one with
+a little practice. More can be learned practically about budding in a
+few hours spent with a skillful nurseryman while he is performing the
+operation, than could be derived from anything we might write on the
+subject. We are aware that we shall not be able to state in this brief
+chapter what will be new or instructive to experienced gardeners or
+nurserymen. This is not our aim, what may be old to them is likely to be
+new to thousands of amateur gardeners. In another part of this book will
+be found a chapter on grafting; this, though differently performed, is
+analogous in its results to budding, and many amateurs not infrequently
+speak of them in the same terms. To graft a cion, one end is carefully
+cut in the shape of a wedge, and inserted in a cleft where it is to
+grow; on the other hand, in budding, we use but a single eye, taken from
+a small branch, and insert it inside of the bark of the stock or tree we
+wish to bud. From this one eye, we may in time look for a tree laden
+with precious fruit. To be more explicit, and by way of illustration, we
+will imagine a seedling apple tree, a "natural," to have grown up in our
+garden. If left alone, the fruit of that seedling tree would probably be
+worthless, but we don't propose to risk that, and will proceed to bud it
+with some kind more worthy of room in a garden. When the proper season
+for budding fruit arrives, generally from the first to the latter part
+of July, will be the time to bud, if the stock is growing thriftily. A
+keen-bladed budding knife made for the purpose, a "cion" or "stick" of
+the variety to be budded, some twine (basswood bark is the best), make
+up the needed outfit for this operation. If the seedling is large, say
+five or six feet high, it should be top-budded, putting in a bud or two
+in each of the thriftiest branches. If the stock is not over one to two
+feet high, a single bud a few inches from the ground will be the best
+way to make a good tree of it. At the spot where we have decided to
+insert the bud, we will make a short, horizontal cut, then downwards a
+short, perpendicular "slit," not over an inch long, and just penetrating
+through the bark; open the slit, care being taken not to scratch the
+wood within, then insert the bud at the top of the cut, and slide it
+down to its proper place inside of the bark, the top of the bud being in
+juxtaposition with the horizontal cut above. Considerable skill is
+required to cut a bud properly, and two methods are practised, known as
+"budding with the wood in," and "budding with the wood out." The former
+consists in cutting a very little wood with the bud, a little deeper
+than the bark itself, and in the latter the wood is removed from the
+bud, leaving nothing but the bare bark. Unquestionably the surest way
+for a young budder is to remove the wood, cutting a pretty deep bud, and
+then in making the cross cut let it be only as deep as the bark, and by
+giving it a twitch the bud will readily leave the wood. I will say,
+however, that most nurserymen insist on budding with the wood, which it
+is claimed is the surest and best way to bud. We have tried both ways
+for years, and have been able to discover no difference, excepting where
+the buds are quite green at the time of budding, when it is best to have
+a little wood with the bud to sustain it. Plums should invariably be
+budded with the wood out.
+
+After the bud has been properly set, it should be firmly tied with a
+broad string, making the laps close enough to entirely cover the slip,
+leaving the eye of the bud uncovered. Various kinds of strings for tying
+buds are used by nurserymen, but the basswood bark, which is made into
+broad, ribbon-like strips, seems peculiarly adapted for the purpose, and
+we advise its use where one has any considerable amount of budding to
+do. It usually takes from three to four weeks for a bud to callous and
+form a union with the stock; at the expiration of this time the strings
+should be taken off; we would except only those cases where the stock is
+growing, when if the strings pinch the stock too closely, they can be
+removed some time sooner.
+
+The stock or stocks can now be left until the following spring, when the
+top should be cut away to within an inch or less of the bud; this will
+assist the roots to throw all their energy into the bud.
+
+
+TOP-BUDDING TREES.
+
+The top-budding of fruit and ornamental trees is much practised
+now-a-days by orchardists and fruit-growers generally, and sometimes
+with marked success.
+
+A famous horticulturist of Geneva, N. Y., some years ago planted a large
+number of Lombard plum trees, which he fondly expected to see come into
+bearing while quite young, and be early compensated for his labor and
+expense in planting them. He waited a number of years without seeing his
+hopes realized; his patience at last became exhausted, and starting, lie
+top-budded them all with the Bradshaw plum, which grew rapidly, and bore
+abundantly in a couple of years, and last season he received eight
+dollars per bushel for the fruit in the Philadelphia market. It is a
+well known fact among fruit-growers that some rank-growing varieties of
+fruit trees, as for instance the Keiffer Hybrid Pear, do not produce
+fruit so early, or in such abundance as some less thrifty-growing
+varieties, such as the _Beurre Clairgeau_, but by top-budding the
+latter-named sort on to a thrifty specimen of the former, we have a tree
+that will bear fruit almost every year.
+
+Nothing will take better from the bud than the rose; some elegant tree
+roses can be grown by simply training up a shoot of any common or wild
+rose to a sufficient hight, about five feet, and then top-budding it
+with three or four choice hybrids, as the _Gen. Jacqueminot_, _La
+Reine_, _Coquette des Alps_, and _Black Prince_, and those gems of the
+floral kingdom, when in blossom, will form a variety of dazzling
+beauties, the effect of which will not only be charming to the eye, but
+novel as well. I once removed from the door-yard a large rose bush of
+the _Crimson Boursault_ variety, which had a number of large limbs on,
+into a corner of the conservatory, and there budded into it fifty
+different choice varieties of Roses of all classes: Hybrids, Teas,
+Noisettes, Bourbons, China, and Bengal varieties. The effect of all
+these different Roses, when in full blow the following summer was
+amazing; a perfect galaxy of the "Queen of Flowers."
+
+A similar operation is possible for any skillful amateur florist to
+perform who has the facilities of a hot-house.
+
+Budding can only be done when, ripe buds can be obtained, and when the
+stock to be budded is in a growing and thrifty condition, so that when
+opening the bark of the stock, the same peels freely, and opens readily
+at the touch of the knife. We will append here a brief table showing at
+what months of the summer different trees may be budded:
+
+  Apples       July 10th to 12th.
+  Pears        July 10th to 12th.
+  Plums        July 10th to 12th.
+  Cherries     July 20th to Aug. 1st.
+  Quinces      July 20th to Aug. 1st.
+  Peaches      July 20th to Aug. 1st.
+  Nectarines   Aug. 10th to 20th.
+  Apricots     Aug. 10th to 20th.
+
+Most all sorts of ornamental trees, including Roses, in the ordinary
+season; namely, from July to August 1st.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVIII.
+
+PRUNING.
+
+
+If we plant trees or shrubs upon our grounds with the hope of making
+them more attractive, and at the same time indulge in the common and
+mistaken idea that, if we only plant them that nature will take care of
+their future, and grow them into handsome and shapely trees and
+shrubs--we labor in vain. It is not uncommon to see in the centre of
+refinement and culture every where, sadly neglected door-yards; these
+are filled with rampant bushes, and wide-spreading evergreens; such
+yards have more of a "cemetery look" than should belong to the
+surroundings of a cheerful home.
+
+With a little pruning in the proper season, these unshapely bushes might
+become things of beauty, and not only look better, but will do better,
+if given a severe trimming in the spring. Hedges of Privet, Purple
+Barberry, and Japan Quince, look much prettier along the walk than the
+old-fashioned fences, which are now being rapidly done away with.
+
+They should be kept pruned low as to not allow them to grow over two
+feet high.
+
+The proper time for trimming hedges of all kinds is in mid-summer, after
+the shrubs have made a thrifty growth; we would advise an annual pruning
+in order to have the hedge looking finely.
+
+It is a bad plan to allow a hedge of any kind, especially an evergreen
+one, to run a number of years without trimming. If a hedge is neglected
+so long, and then severely pruned, it will look stubby and shabby for a
+year or two after. With a pair of sharp hedge-shears, a person having a
+straight eye will make a good job of the trimming every time.
+
+The spring is the time of the year in which to do the pruning of all
+kinds of plants, vines, and shrubs, that are out of doors, as they are
+then dormant. Some prefer to prune grape vines in the fall, just after
+they have ripened and shed their leaves. We think it unsafe to prune
+anything too severely in the fall, especially the grape vine. Much
+experience has taught us to select the month of March as the time of the
+year most suitable for performing the operation.
+
+Every one who has a garden should possess a pruning knife with a long
+blade, curved at the end, for the operation. Armed with this implement,
+let us take a walk upon the lawn, and down into the garden, while the
+snow is still white upon the ground. The first thing that we meet as we
+enter the garden, is the large grape trellis, with its mass of tangled
+brown canes, a perfect mat of long vines and curling tendrils. How are
+we to attack this formidable network of vines in order to do anything
+with them? The first thing to be done is to sever all the cords and ties
+that fasten the vines to the trellis, and allow them to fall to the
+ground for convenience in trimming them. Spread the vines out full
+length upon the ground, and beginning at one of its arms, cut each shoot
+of the previous season's growth back to two eyes; if the canes are too
+numerous some may be cut out entirely. After all the "arms" of each vine
+have been pruned in this manner, the vine can be returned to the arbor
+and tied up as before. If there is a prospect of cold weather let the
+vines lie upon the ground, as they will be less liable to "bleed," or to
+suffer from the cold. This is the simplest way we know of to trim grape
+vines, and any amateur gardener can do it if he tries this manner.
+Walking a little further, we come upon some rose bushes: there are too
+many branches among them, and too much old wood, and some that is
+entirely dead. With our knife we will remove at least one half of this
+excess of wood, leaving as much young wood of the previous season's
+growth as possible by thinning out the old limbs and dead wood severely.
+Here is one Moss Rose bush, the stems appear as brown and looking as
+seared as a berry; it is apparently winter killed, and by cutting into
+it we find that to be the case; the roots are in all probability sound,
+and we will cut the stems down to the ground and cover the place with a
+forkful of stable manure; if the roots are alive it will grow and bloom
+the coming summer. Here is a large standard Rose with a fine top, we
+will head this back short, cutting each stem to an eye or two of the
+bottom. Proceeding to the lawn we run across some weeping deciduous
+trees, among them is a large Kilmarnock Weeping Willow, its beautiful
+pendant branches fairly reach the ground, and switch the snow as they
+sway to and fro. Nothing more beautiful could be imagined. We would head
+this back close, and it should be done every spring and most of the old
+wood thinned out. This large climbing Rose that clings so close to the
+piazza, should be trimmed about in the same way as we did the grape
+vine, and also this large Clematis Jackmanii should be cut to the ground
+and allowed to start up anew in the spring. Here is a clump of shrubbery
+among which we see the _Weigela_, _Spiraeas_, _Purple Fringe_, _Deutzia
+crenata_, _Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora_, the Syringa, and a number
+of other favorite shrubs. These will all need more or less cutting back
+and trimming, and now is a good time to do it. We know one gentleman who
+boasted the finest display of Roses in his county, who was in the habit
+of cutting his Rose bushes down to the ground every spring, and when
+they began to grow he had dug in around each one an abundance of well
+rotted compost, "and," said he, "I have never seen the day, from June
+to October, that I could not pluck a large bouquet of the choicest
+Hybrid Perpetual roses, while my next door neighbor, who also had rose
+bushes, could find no flower after June." I will say that this gentleman
+was in the habit of cutting his roses once a day, and never allowing the
+flowers to fade on the bush, which is an excellent plan to keep up a
+perpetuity of bloom.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIX.
+
+MISCELLANEOUS NOTES.
+
+
+TREE ROSES.
+
+In planting tree roses received from the nursery or elsewhere, be sure
+and set them deep; the stem, for six or eight inches above the collar,
+should be under ground. If wet moss be tied about the stem and head of
+the tree after it has been planted, and the moss kept wet for a week or
+two after planting, or until the buds begin to start, it will, in nine
+cases out of ten, save the tree. The moss maybe removed after the growth
+begins. If planted in the fall, the body and top should be well wrapped
+up in straw.
+
+
+THE LAWN.
+
+If one has a fine lawn and desires to keep it so, he should never work
+upon or mow it when the turf is wet or soggy. The impression made by the
+feet in walking over the sod while in this state, will leave the surface
+rough and uneven afterwards. Do not water the grass or plants while the
+sun is shining hot, as it will scorch the leaves and make them turn
+yellow. All weeds, such as dandelions, plantain, etc., growing up
+through the grass, should be carefully and thoroughly dug out by the
+roots with a knife or pointed spade; if allowed to remain, they will
+soon become so numerous as eventually to kill out the grass and give to
+the lawn an appearance of neglect.
+
+
+LAWN VASES.
+
+The earth in vases of plants that stand out in exposed places, will
+rapidly dry out; if shells or fine gravel is laid over the surface of
+the soil, they will prevent it from "baking" after watering, and hold
+the moisture much longer than without. Try it.
+
+
+PLANTING TREES.
+
+The spring is preferable to the fall for setting out trees and shrubs of
+all kinds. In the Northern States they should be set out about the first
+of April, to give the roots time enough to become established before
+warm weather starts the leaves.
+
+Of thousands of trees and shrubs that we have planted at this season,
+comparatively few failed to live and grow, providing they were in good
+condition at the time of planting. Young trees should not be headed back
+the year they are set out, but the roots may be trimmed a little,
+cutting off all that are bruised and broken. The hole in which a tree or
+shrub is to be set, should be ample enough to receive all the roots
+without cramping them into a ball, as is the habit of some who plant
+trees, the soil filled in about the roots should be fine, but not the
+sub-soil, which should be replaced by richer earth. Never allow manure
+to come in direct contact with the roots at the time of planting. It is
+very injurious, but it may be applied on the surface as a mulch, with
+safety.
+
+
+BOTANICAL NAMES.
+
+All species of plants belong to some particular genus, and bear a
+botanical, as well as a common name, by which they are distinguished.
+Those who have studied botany will know the exact botanical name of the
+plants in most collections. We sometimes see persons making themselves
+ridiculous by a pretended display of knowledge on matters of
+horticulture and botany, giving or pretending to give the botanical name
+of every plant one may happen to mention. The following anecdote will
+apply to such: Mr. Sidney Smith, the famous English writer, was once
+visiting the conservatory of a young lady who was proud of her plants
+and flowers, and used (not very accurately) a profusion of botanical
+names. "Madam," he said, "have you the _Psoriasis septennis_?" "No," she
+said, very innocently, "I had it last winter, and I gave it to the
+Archbishop of Canterbury, and it came out beautifully in the spring."
+_Psoriasis septennis_, is the medical name for the "Seven year Itch!"
+
+
+FROZEN PLANTS.
+
+Tender plants that have become frozen, or but slightly touched by frost,
+can be saved, if taken before they commence to thaw out; sprinkle or dip
+the affected part in cold water, and then remove the plant or plants
+into a dark place to remain for a day, then bring them to the light. We
+have saved whole beds of tender plants from death by early frosts in the
+autumn, by getting up long before sunrise, drenching the leaves with
+water, and then covering the plants with a sheet or blanket.
+
+
+CUTTING GRASS.
+
+It is so easy to mow the lawn with the light-running modern lawn-mower,
+that many fine lawns are injured by too frequent mowings. We should not
+follow any set time for mowing, but be governed by the growth of the
+grass and the weather. When hot weather approaches, the grass should be
+cut less often, for too close cutting will expose the roots, and if the
+weather be dry and hot for a considerable period, the grass as a
+consequence will wither prematurely.
+
+
+AN ARCH.
+
+A very simple thing sometimes will look the most attractive. By driving
+two limber poles into the ground by the side of each of two gate posts,
+and bringing the two ends of the poles together, and fasten them
+securely, a respectable arch can be made. At the foot of each pole plant
+a _Clematis Jackmanii_, and train them to run up their poles; they will
+grow rapidly, and in a short time the arch will be covered with
+beautiful purple stars. This Clematis is entirely hardy, and can be used
+for the same purpose every year by cutting it close to the ground in the
+fall when done growing.
+
+
+BLOOM.
+
+When watering plants avoid wetting the foliage as much as possible, as
+they will not bloom as freely as if the leaves were dry. Geraniums are
+known to bloom a great deal more freely where the roots are confined to
+a small space, and the soil about them kept rather dry; especially is
+this so with the double sorts.
+
+Geraniums may be grafted successfully; the short growers, like Mrs.
+Pollock, Mountain of Snow, and Happy Thought, can be top-grafted on to
+the strong-growing kinds, like Gen. Grant, Madam Lemoine, and other
+strong-growers. If half a dozen sorts are grafted on a single stock,
+they will, when in bloom, appear as a curiosity.
+
+
+MILDEW.
+
+Mildew is a microscopic fungus, that is parasitic upon cultivated
+plants. Roses, Bouvardias, and especially grape vines, are subject to
+its attacks. If not arrested, mildew will soon strip a plant of its
+foliage. Whenever a whitish dust, as if flour had been sprinkled upon
+them, appears upon the leaves, particularly those of the Rose, and its
+leaves curl up, it is evident that the plant is attacked by mildew, and
+some remedy must be at once applied to prevent the spread of the
+trouble. Several excellent remedies are used by florists and gardeners
+for the prevention and cure of mildew. None of these are more effective
+than the following, which, if applied in time, before the disease has
+become so bad as to be beyond help, will very surely arrest it. Take
+three pounds each, of Flowers of Sulphur and Quick-lime, put these
+together and add sufficient hot water to slake the lime. When the lime
+is slaked, add six gallons of water, and boil down to two gallons. Allow
+the lime to settle, and pour off the clear liquid and bottle it for use.
+To treat plants affected by mildew, add one gill of the liquid, prepared
+as above, to six gallons of water, and mix well together. This is to be
+freely syringed upon the plants every other day. It will not only arrest
+mildew, but prevent it. Sudden changes of temperature, as cool nights
+following warm days, tend to the production of mildew, and with house
+plants, these sudden changes should be carefully guarded against.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXX.
+
+SENTIMENT AND LANGUAGE OF FLOWERS.
+
+
+  Amaranth                   Immortality.
+  Amaryllis                  Beautiful, but timid.
+  Aster, double              Variety.
+  Aster, German              Afterthought.
+  Arbutus                    Thee only do I love.
+  Acacia                     Friendship.
+  Apple Blossom              Preference.
+  Asphodel                   Remembered after death.
+  Arbor Vitae                 Unchanging friendship.
+  Alyssum                    Worth beyond beauty.
+  Anemone                    Your love changes.
+  Azalea                     Pleasant recollections.
+  Argeratum                  Worth beyond beauty.
+  Balsam                     Impatience.
+  Blue Bell                  Constancy.
+  Balm                       Pleasantry.
+  Bay-leaf                   I change but in death.
+  Bachelor's                 Button   Hope.
+  Begonia                    Deformed.
+  Bitter Sweet               Truth.
+  Buttercup                  Memories of childhood.
+  Brier, Sweet               Envy.
+  Calla                      Feminine Modesty.
+  Carnation                  Pride.
+  Clematis                   Mental Excellence.
+  Cypress                    Disappointment, Despair
+  Crocus                     Happiness.
+  Columbine                  I cannot give thee up.
+  Cresses                    Always cheerful.
+  Canterbury Bell            Constancy.
+  Cereus, Night-blooming     Transient beauty.
+  Candytuft                  Indifference.
+  Chrysanthemum              Heart left desolate.
+  Clover, White              I promise.
+  Clover, Four-leaved        Be mine.
+  Crown Imperial             Authority.
+  Camellia                   Spotless purity.
+  Cissus                     Changeable.
+  Centaurea                  Your looks deceive me.
+  Cineraria                  Singleness of heart.
+  Daisy, Field               I will think of it.
+  Dahlia                     Dignity.
+  Daffodil                   Unrequited love.
+  Dandelion                  Coquetry.
+  Everlasting                Always remembered.
+  Everlasting Pea            Wilt thou go with me.
+  Ebony                      Blackness.
+  Fuchsia                    Humble love.
+  Foxglove                   Insincerity.
+  Fern                       Sincerity.
+  Fennel                     Strength.
+  Forget-me-not              For ever remembered.
+  Fraxinella                 Fire.
+  Geranium, Ivy              Fond of dancing.
+  Geranium, Oak              A melancholy mind.
+  Geranium, Rose             I prefer you.
+  Geranium, Scarlet          Stillness.
+  Gladiolus                  Ready armed.
+  Golden Rod                 Encouragement.
+  Gillyflower                Promptness.
+  Hyacinth                   Benevolence.
+  Honeysuckle                Devoted love.
+  House Leek                 Domestic economy.
+  Heliotrope                 I adore you.
+  Hibiscus                   Delicate beauty.
+  Hollyhock                  Ambition.
+  Hydrangea                  Vain glory.
+  Ice Plant                  Your looks freeze me.
+  Ivy                        Friendship.
+  Iris, German               Flame.
+  Iris, Common Garden        A message for thee.
+  Jonquil                    Affection returned.
+  Jessamine, White           Amiability.
+  Jessamine, Yellow          Gracefulness.
+  Larkspur                   Fickleness.
+  Lantana                    Rigor.
+  Laurel                     Words though sweet may deceive.
+  Lavender                   Mistrust.
+  Lemon Blossom              Discretion.
+  Lady Slipper               Capricious beauty.
+  Lily of the Valley         Return of happiness.
+  Lilac, White               Youth.
+    "    Blue                First emotions of love.
+  Lily, Water                Eloquence.
+  May Flower                 Welcome.
+  Marigold                   Sacred affection.
+  Marigold and Cypress       Despair.
+  Mandrake                   Rarity.
+  Mignonette                 Your qualities surpass your charms.
+  Morning Glory              Coquetry, Affectation.
+  Mock Orange                Counterfeit.
+  Myrtle                     Love in absence.
+  Mistletoe                  Insurmountable.
+  Narcissus                  Egotism.
+  Nasturtium                 Patriotism.
+  Oxalis                     Reverie.
+  Orange Blossom             Purity.
+  Olive                      Peace.
+  Oleander                   Beware.
+  Primrose                   Modest worth.
+  Pink, White                Pure love.
+    "   Red                  Devoted love.
+  Phlox                      Our hearts are united.
+  Periwinkle                 Sweet memories.
+  Paeony                      Ostentation.
+  Pansy                      You occupy my thoughts.
+  Poppy                      Oblivion.
+  Rhododendron               Agitation.
+  Rose, Bud                  Confession of love.
+    "    "  White            Too young to love.
+    "   Austrian             Thou art all that is lovely.
+    "   Leaf                 I never trouble.
+    "   Monthly              Beauty ever new.
+    "   Moss                 Superior merit.
+    "   Red                  I love you.
+    "   Yellow               Infidelity.
+  Rosemary                   Remembrance.
+  Sensitive Plant            Modesty.
+  Snow-Ball                  Thoughts in heaven.
+  Snow-Drop                  Consolation.
+  Sumach                     Pride and poverty.
+  Sweet William              Gallantry.
+  Syringa                    Memory.
+  Sunflower                  Lofty thought.
+  Tuberose                   Purity of mind.
+  Thyme                      Activity.
+  Tulip, var                 Beautiful eyes.
+  Tulip, Red                 Declaration of love.
+  Tritoma                    Fiery temper.
+  Verbena                    Sensibility.
+     "    Purple             I weep for you.
+     "    White              Pray for me.
+  Violet, Blue               Faithfulness.
+     "    White              Purity, candor.
+  Woodbine                   Fraternal love.
+  Wall Flower                Fidelity in misfortune.
+  Wistaria                   Close friendship.
+  Wax Plant                  Artificial beauty.
+  Yucca                      Your looks pierce me.
+  Yew                        Sadness.
+  Zinnia                     I mourn your absence.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+  SENT FREE ON APPLICATION
+
+  Descriptive Catalog
+  _of_ Rural Books
+
+  _CONTAINING 128 8vo PAGES, PROFUSELY
+  ILLUSTRATED, AND GIVING FULL DESCRIPTIONS
+  OF THE BEST WORKS ON THE FOLLOWING SUBJECTS_
+
+  Farm and Garden
+  Fruits, Flowers, etc.
+  Cattle, Sheep and Swine
+  Dogs, Horses, Riding, etc.
+         Poultry, Pigeons and Bees
+         Angling and Fishing
+         Boating, Canoeing and Sailing
+         Field Sports and Natural History
+  Hunting, Shooting, etc.
+  Architecture and Building
+  Landscape Gardening
+  Household and Miscellaneous
+
+
+  PUBLISHERS AND IMPORTERS
+  Orange Judd Company
+  315-321 Fourth Avenue   NEW YORK
+
+
+  Books will be Forwarded, Postpaid, on Receipt of Price
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+=Farm Grasses of the United States of America=
+
+By WILLIAM JASPER SPILLMAN. A practical treatise on the grass crop,
+seeding and management of meadows and pastures, description of the best
+varieties, the seed and its impurities, grasses for special conditions,
+lawns and lawn grasses, etc., etc. In preparing this volume the author's
+object has been to present, in connected form, the main facts concerning
+the grasses grown on American farms. Every phase of the subject is
+viewed from the farmer's standpoint. Illustrated. 248 pages. 5 x 7
+inches. Cloth. $1.0
+
+
+=The Book of Corn=
+
+By HERBERT MYRICK, assisted by A. D. SHAMBIA, E. A. BURNETT, ALBERT W.
+FULTON, B. W. SNOW, and other most capable specialists. A complete
+treatise on the culture, marketing and uses of maize in America and
+elsewhere for farmers, dealers and others. Illustrated. 372 pages. 5 x 7
+inches. Cloth. $1.50
+
+
+=The Hop--Its Culture and Care, Marketing and Manufacture=
+
+By HERBERT MYRICK. A practical handbook on the most approved methods in
+growing, harvesting, curing and selling hops, and on the use and
+manufacture of hops. The result of years of research and observation, it
+is a volume destined to be an authority on this crop for many years to
+come. It takes up every detail from preparing the soil and laying out
+the yard, to curing and selling the crop. Every line represents the
+ripest judgment and experience of experts. Size, 5 x 8; pages, 300;
+illustrations, nearly 150; bound in cloth and gold; price, postpaid,
+$1.50
+
+
+=Tobacco Leaf=
+
+By J. B. KILLEBREW and HERBERT MYRICK. Its Culture and Cure, Marketing
+and Manufacture. A practical handbook on the most approved methods in
+growing, harvesting, curing, packing and selling tobacco, with an
+account of the operations in every department of tobacco manufacture.
+The contents of this book are based on actual experiments in field,
+curing barn, packing house, factory and laboratory. It is the only work
+of the kind in existence, and is destined to be the standard practical
+and scientific authority on the whole subject of tobacco for many years.
+506 pages and 150 original engravings. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $2.00
+
+
+=Bulbs and Tuberous-Rooted Plants=
+
+By C. L. ALLEN. A complete treatise on the history description, methods
+of propagation and full directions for the successful culture of bulbs
+in the garden, dwelling and green-house. The author of this book has for
+many years made bulb growing a specialty, and is a recognized authority
+on their cultivation and management. The cultural directions are plainly
+stated, practical and to the point. The illustrations which embellish
+this work have been drawn from nature and have been engraved especially
+for this book. 312 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.50
+
+
+=Fumigation Methods=
+
+By WILLIS G. JOHNSON. A timely up-to-date book on the practical
+application of the new methods for destroying insects with hydrocyanic
+acid gas and carbon bisulphid, the most powerful insecticides ever
+discovered. It is an indispensable book for farmers, fruit growers,
+nurserymen, gardeners, florists, millers, grain dealers, transportation
+companies, college and experiment station workers, etc. Illustrated. 313
+pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.00
+
+
+=Diseases of Swine=
+
+By Dr. R. A. CRAIG, Professor of Veterinary Medicine at the Purdue
+University. A concise, practical and popular guide to the prevention and
+treatment of the diseases of swine. With the discussions on each disease
+are given its causes, symptoms, treatment and means of prevention. Every
+part of the book impresses the reader with the fact that its writer is
+thoroughly and practically familiar with all the details upon which he
+treats. All technical and strictly scientific terms are avoided, so far
+as feasible, thus making the work at once available to the practical
+stock raiser as well as to the teacher and student. Illustrated. 5 x 7
+inches. 190 pages. Cloth. $0.75
+
+
+=Spraying Crops--Why, When and How=
+
+By CLARENCE M. WEED, D.Sc. The present fourth edition has been rewritten
+and set throughout to bring it thoroughly up to date, so that it
+embodies the latest practical information gleaned by fruit growers and
+experiment station workers. So much new information has come to light
+since the third edition was published that this is practically a new
+book, needed by those who have utilized the earlier editions, as well as
+by fruit growers and farmers generally. Illustrated. 136 pages. 5 x 7
+inches. Cloth. $0.50
+
+
+=Successful Fruit Culture=
+
+By SAMUEL T. MAYNARD. A practical guide to the cultivation and
+propagation of Fruits, written from the standpoint of the practical
+fruit grower who is striving to make his business profitable by growing
+the best fruit possible and at the least cost. It is up-to-date in every
+particular, and covers the entire practice of fruit culture, harvesting,
+storing, marketing, forcing, best varieties, etc., etc. It deals with
+principles first and with the practice afterwards, as the foundation,
+principles of plant growth and nourishment must always remain the same,
+while practice will vary according to the fruit grower's immediate
+conditions and environments. Illustrated. 265 pages. 5 x 7 inches.
+Cloth. $1.00
+
+
+=Plums and Plum Culture=
+
+By F. A. WAUGH. A complete manual for fruit growers, nurserymen, farmers
+and gardeners, on all known varieties of plums and their successful
+management. This book marks an epoch in the horticultural literature of
+America. It is a complete monograph of the plums cultivated in and
+indigenous to North America. It will be found indispensable to the
+scientist seeking the most recent and authoritative information
+concerning this group, to the nurseryman who wishes to handle his
+varieties accurately and intelligently, and to the cultivator who would
+like to grow plums successfully. Illustrated. 391 pages. 5 x 7 inches.
+Cloth. $1.50
+
+
+=Fruit Harvesting, Storing, Marketing=
+
+By F. A. WAUGH. A practical guide to the picking, storing, shipping and
+marketing of fruit. The principal subjects covered are the fruit market,
+fruit picking, sorting and packing, the fruit storage, evaporation,
+canning, statistics of the fruit trade, fruit package laws, commission
+dealers and dealing, cold storage, etc., etc. No progressive fruit
+grower can afford to be without this most valuable book. Illustrated.
+232 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.00
+
+
+=Systematic Pomology=
+
+By F. A. WAUGH, professor of horticulture and landscape gardening in the
+Massachusetts agricultural college, formerly of the university of
+Vermont. This is the first book in the English language which has ever
+made the attempt at a complete and comprehensive treatment of systematic
+pomology. It presents clearly and in detail the whole method by which
+fruits are studied. The book is suitably illustrated. 288 pages. 5 x 7
+inches. Cloth. $1.00
+
+
+=Feeding Farm Animals=
+
+By Professor THOMAS SHAW. This book is intended alike for the student
+and the farmer. The author has succeeded in giving in regular and
+orderly sequence, and in language so simple that a child can understand
+it, the principles that govern the science and practice of feeding farm
+animals. Professor Shaw is certainly to be congratulated on the
+successful manner in which he has accomplished a most difficult task.
+His book is unquestionably the most practical work which has appeared on
+the subject of feeding farm animals. Illustrated. 5-1/2 x 8 inches.
+Upward of 500 pages. Cloth. $2.00
+
+
+=Profitable Dairying=
+
+By C. L. PECK. A practical guide to successful dairy management. The
+treatment of the entire subject is thoroughly practical, being
+principally a description of the methods practiced by the author. A
+specially valuable part of this book consists of a minute description of
+the far-famed model dairy farm of Rev. J. D. Detrich, near Philadelphia,
+Pa. On the farm of fifteen acres, which twenty years ago could not
+maintain one horse and two cows, there are now kept twenty-seven dairy
+cattle, in addition to two horses. All the roughage, litter, bedding,
+etc., necessary for these animals are grown on these fifteen acres, more
+than most farmers could accomplish on one hundred acres. Illustrated. 5
+x 7 inches. 200 pages. Cloth. $0.75
+
+
+=Practical Dairy Bacteriology=
+
+By Dr. H. W. CONN, of Wesleyan University. A complete exposition of
+important facts concerning the relation of bacteria to various problems
+related to milk. A book for the classroom, laboratory, factory and farm.
+Equally useful to the teacher, student, factory man and practical
+dairyman. Fully illustrated with 83 original pictures. 340 pages. Cloth.
+5-1/2 x 8 inches. $1.25
+
+
+=Modern Methods of Testing Milk and Milk Products=
+
+By L. L. VANSLYKE. This is a clear and concise discussion of the
+approved methods of testing milk and milk products. All the questions
+involved in the various methods of testing milk and cream are handled
+with rare skill and yet in so plain a manner that they can be fully
+understood by all. The book should be in the hands of every dairyman,
+teacher or student. Illustrated. 214 pages. 5 x 7 inches. $0.75
+
+
+=Animal Breeding=
+
+By THOMAS SHAW. This book is the most complete and comprehensive work
+ever published on the subject of which it treats. It is the first book
+which has systematized the subject of animal breeding. The leading laws
+which govern this most intricate question the author has boldly defined
+and authoritatively arranged. The chapters which he has written on the
+more involved features of the subject, as sex and the relative influence
+of parents, should go far toward setting at rest the wildly speculative
+views cherished with reference to these questions. The striking
+originality in the treatment of the subject is no less conspicuous than
+the superb order and regular sequence of thought from the beginning to
+the end of the book. The book is intended to meet the needs of all
+persons interested in the breeding and rearing of live stock.
+Illustrated. 405 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.50
+
+
+=Forage Crops Other Than Grasses=
+
+By THOMAS SHAW. How to cultivate, harvest and use them. Indian corn,
+sorghum, clover, leguminous plants, crops of the brassica genus, the
+cereals, millet, field roots, etc. Intensely practical and reliable.
+Illustrated. 287 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.00
+
+
+=Soiling Crops and the Silo=
+
+By THOMAS SHAW. The growing and feeding of all kinds of soiling crops,
+conditions to which they are adapted, their plan in the rotation, etc.
+Not a line is repeated from the Forage Crops book. Best methods of
+building the silo, filling it and feeding ensilage. Illustrated. 364
+pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.50
+
+
+=The Study of Breeds=
+
+By THOMAS SHAW. Origin, history, distribution, characteristics,
+adaptability, uses, and standards of excellence of all pedigreed breeds
+of cattle, sheep and swine in America. The accepted text book in
+colleges, and the authority for farmers and breeders. Illustrated. 371
+pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.50
+
+
+=Clovers and How to Grow Them=
+
+By THOMAS SHAW. This is the first book published which treats on the
+growth, cultivation and treatment of clovers as applicable to all parts
+of the United States and Canada, and which takes up the entire subject
+in a systematic way and consecutive sequence. The importance of clover
+in the economy of the farm is so great that an exhaustive work on this
+subject will no doubt be welcomed by students in agriculture, as well as
+by all who are interested in the tilling of the soil. Illustrated. 5 x 7
+inches. 337 pages. Cloth. Net. $1.00
+
+
+=Land Draining=
+
+A handbook for farmers on the principles and practice of draining, by
+MANLY MILES, giving the results of his extended experience in laying
+tile drains. The directions for the laying out and the construction of
+tile drains will enable the farmer to avoid the errors of imperfect
+construction, and the disappointment that must necessarily follow. This
+manual for practical farmers will also be found convenient for reference
+in regard to many questions that may arise in crop growing, aside from
+the special subjects of drainage of which it treats. Illustrated. 200
+pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.00
+
+
+=Barn Plans and Outbuildings=
+
+Two hundred and fifty-seven illustrations. A most valuable work, full of
+ideas, hints, suggestions, plans, etc., for the construction of barns
+and outbuildings, by practical writers. Chapters are devoted to the
+economic erection and use of barns, grain barns, horse barns, cattle
+barns, sheep barns, cornhouses, smokehouses, icehouses, pig pens,
+granaries, etc. There are likewise chapters on birdhouses, doghouses,
+tool sheds, ventilators, roofs and roofing, doors and fastenings,
+workshops, poultry houses, manure sheds, barnyards, root pits, etc. 235
+pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.00
+
+
+=Irrigation Farming=
+
+By LUTE WILCOX. A handbook for the practical application of water in the
+production of crops. A complete treatise on water supply, canal
+construction, reservoirs and ponds, pipes for irrigation purposes,
+flumes and their structure, methods of applying water, irrigation of
+field crops, the garden, the orchard and vineyard, windmills and pumps,
+appliances and contrivances. New edition, revised, enlarged and
+rewritten. Profusely illustrated. Over 500 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth.
+$2.00
+
+
+=Forest Planting=
+
+By H. NICHOLAS JARCHOW, LL. D. A treatise on the care of woodlands and
+the restoration of the denuded timberlands on plains and mountains. The
+author has fully described those European methods, which have proved to
+be most useful in maintaining the superb forests of the old world. This
+experience has been adapted to the different climates and trees of
+America, full instructions being given for forest planting of our
+various kinds of soil and sub-soil, whether on mountain or valley.
+Illustrated. 250 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.50
+
+
+=The Nut Culturist=
+
+By ANDREW S. FULLER. A treatise on the propagation, planting and
+cultivation of nut-bearing trees and shrubs adapted to the climate of
+the United States, with the scientific and common names of the fruits
+known in commerce as edible or otherwise useful nuts. Intended to aid
+the farmer to increase his income without adding to his expenses or
+labor. Cloth, 12mo. $1.50
+
+
+=Cranberry Culture=
+
+By JOSEPH J. WHITE. Contents: Natural history, history of cultivation,
+choice of location, preparing the ground, planting the vines, management
+of meadows, flooding, enemies and difficulties overcome, picking,
+keeping, profit and loss. Illustrated. 132 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth.
+$1.00
+
+
+=Ornamental Gardening for Americans=
+
+By ELIAS A. LONG, landscape architect. A treatise on beautifying homes,
+rural districts and cemeteries. A plain and practical work with numerous
+illustrations and instructions so plain that they may be readily
+followed. Illustrated. 390 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.50
+
+
+=Grape Culturist=
+
+By A. S. FULLER. This is one of the very best of works on the culture of
+the hardy grapes, with full directions for all departments of
+propagation, culture, etc., with 150 excellent engravings, illustrating
+planting, training, grafting, etc. 282 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.50
+
+
+=Gardening for Young and Old=
+
+By JOSEPH HARRIS. A work intended to interest farmers' boys in farm
+gardening, which means a better and more profitable form of agriculture.
+The teachings are given in the familiar manner so well known in the
+author's "Walks and Talks on the Farm." Illustrated. 191 pages. 5 x 7
+inches. Cloth. $1.00
+
+
+=Money in the Garden=
+
+By P. T. QUINN. The author gives in a plain, practical style
+instructions on three distinct, although closely connected, branches of
+gardening--the kitchen garden, market garden and field culture, from
+successful practical experience for a term of years. Illustrated. 268
+pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.00
+
+
+=Greenhouse Construction=
+
+By PROF. L. R. TAFT. A complete treatise on green-house structures and
+arrangements of the various forms and styles of plant houses for
+professional florists as well as amateurs. All the best and most
+approved structures are so fully and clearly described that any one who
+desires to build a green-house will have no difficulty in determining
+the kind best suited to his purpose. The modern and most successful
+methods of heating and ventilating are fully treated upon. Special
+chapters are devoted to houses used for the growing of one kind of
+plants exclusively. The construction of hotbeds and frames receives
+appropriate attention. Over 100 excellent illustrations, especially
+engraved for this work, make every point clear to the reader and add
+considerably to the artistic appearance of the book. 210 pages. 5 x 7
+inches. Cloth. $1.50
+
+
+=Greenhouse Management=
+
+By L. R. TAFT. This book forms an almost indispensable companion volume
+to Greenhouse Construction. In it the author gives the results of his
+many years' experience, together with that of the most successful
+florists and gardeners, in the management of growing plants under glass.
+So minute and practical are the various systems and methods of growing
+and forcing roses, violets, carnations, and all the most important
+florists' plants, as well as fruits and vegetables described, that by a
+careful study of this work and the following of its teachings, failure
+is almost impossible. Illustrated. 382 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.50
+
+
+=Fungi and Fungicides=
+
+By PROF. CLARENCE M. WEED A practical manual concerning the fungous
+diseases of cultivated plants and the means of preventing their ravages.
+The author has endeavored to give such a concise account of the most
+important facts relating to these as will enable the cultivator to
+combat them intelligently. 90 illustrations. 222 pages. 5 x 7 inches.
+Paper, 50 cents; cloth, $1.00
+
+
+=Mushrooms. How to Grow Them=
+
+By WILLIAM FALCONER. This is the most practical work on the subject ever
+written, and the only book on growing mushrooms published in America.
+The author describes how he grows mushrooms, and how they are grown for
+profit by the leading market gardeners, and for home use by the most
+successful private growers. Engravings drawn from nature expressly for
+this work. 170 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.00
+
+
+=Rural School Agriculture=
+
+By CHARLES W. DAVIS. A book intended for the use of both teachers and
+pupils. Its aim is to enlist the interest of the boys of the farm and
+awaken in their minds the fact that the problems of the farm are great
+enough to command all the brain power they can summon. The book is a
+manual of exercises covering many phases of agriculture, and it may be
+used with any text-book of agriculture, or without a text-book. The
+exercises will enable the student to think, and to work out the
+scientific principles underlying some of the most important agricultural
+operations. The author feels that in the teaching of agriculture in the
+rural schools, the laboratory phase is almost entirely neglected. If an
+experiment helps the pupil to think, or makes his conceptions clearer,
+it fills a useful purpose, and eventually prepares for successful work
+upon the farm. The successful farmer of the future must be an
+experimenter in a small way. Following many of the exercises are a
+number of questions which prepare the way for further research work. The
+material needed for performing the experiments is simple, and can be
+devised by the teacher and pupils, or brought from the homes.
+Illustrated. 300 pages. Cloth. 5 x 7 inches. $1.00
+
+
+=Agriculture Through the Laboratory and School Garden=
+
+By C. R. JACKSON and Mrs. L. S. DAUGHERTY. As its name implies, this
+book gives explicit directions for actual work in the laboratory and the
+school garden, through which agricultural principles may be taught. The
+author's aim has been to present actual experimental work in every phase
+of the subject possible, and to state the directions for such work so
+that the student can perform it independently of the teacher, and to
+state them in such a way that the results will not be suggested by these
+directions. One must perform the experiment to ascertain the result. It
+embodies in the text a comprehensive, practical, scientific, yet simple
+discussion of such facts as are necessary to the understanding of many
+of the agricultural principles involved in every-day life. The book,
+although primarily intended for use in schools, is equally valuable to
+any one desiring to obtain in an easy and pleasing manner a general
+knowledge of elementary agriculture. Fully illustrated. 5-1/2 x 8
+inches. 462 pages. Cloth. Net $1.50
+
+
+=Soil Physics Laboratory Guide=
+
+By W. G. STEVENSON and I. O. SCHAUB. A carefully outlined series of
+experiments in soil physics. A portion of the experiments outlined in
+this guide have been used quite generally in recent years. The exercises
+(of which there are 40) are listed in a logical order with reference to
+their relation to each other and the skill required on the part of the
+student. Illustrated. About 100 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $0.50
+
+
+=The New Egg Farm=
+
+By H. H. STODDARD. A practical, reliable manual on producing eggs and
+poultry for market as a profitable business enterprise, either by itself
+or connected with other branches of agriculture. It tells all about how
+to feed and manager, how to breed and select, incubators and brooders,
+its labor-saving devices, etc., etc. Illustrated. 331 pages. 5 x 7
+inches. Cloth. $1.00
+
+
+=Poultry Feeding and Fattening=
+
+Compiled by G. B. FISKE. A handbook for poultry keepers on the standard
+and improved methods of feeding and marketing all kinds of poultry. The
+subject of feeding and fattening poultry is prepared largely from the
+side of the best practice and experience here and abroad, although the
+underlying science of feeding is explained as fully as needful. The
+subject covers all branches, including chickens, broilers, capons,
+turkeys and waterfowl; how to feed under various conditions and for
+different purposes. The whole subject of capons and caponizing is
+treated in detail. A great mass of practical information and experience
+not readily obtainable elsewhere is given with full and explicit
+directions for fattening and preparing for market. This book will meet
+the needs of amateurs as well as commercial poultry raisers. Profusely
+illustrated. 160 pages. 5 x 7-1/2 inches. Cloth. $0.50
+
+
+=Poultry Architecture=
+
+Compiled by G. B. FISKE. A treatise on poultry buildings of all grades,
+styles and classes, and their proper location, coops, additions and
+special construction; all practical in design, and reasonable in cost.
+Over 100 illustrations. 125 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $0.50
+
+
+=Poultry Appliances and Handicraft=
+
+Compiled by G. B. FISKE. Illustrated description of a great variety and
+styles of the best homemade nests, roosts, windows, ventilators,
+incubators and brooders, feeding and watering appliances, etc., etc.
+Over 100 illustrations. Over 125 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $0.50
+
+
+=Turkeys and How to Grow Them=
+
+Edited by HERBERT MYRICK. A treatise on the natural history and origin
+of the name of turkeys; the various breeds, the best methods to insure
+success in the business of turkey growing. With essays from practical
+turkey growers in different parts of the United States and Canada.
+Copiously illustrated 154 pages 5 x 7 inches. Cloth. $1.00
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Your Plants, by James Sheehan
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK YOUR PLANTS ***
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