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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Holborn and Bloomsbury, by 
+Sir Walter Besant and Geraldine Edith Mitton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Holborn and Bloomsbury
+       The Fascination of London
+
+Author: Sir Walter Besant
+        Geraldine Edith Mitton
+
+Release Date: May 9, 2007 [EBook #21411]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  THE FASCINATION
+     OF LONDON
+
+HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY
+
+
+
+_IN THIS SERIES._
+
+Cloth, price 1s. 6d. net; leather, price 2s. net, each.
+
+
+THE STRAND DISTRICT.
+
+By Sir WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON.
+
+
+WESTMINSTER.
+
+By Sir WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON.
+
+
+HAMPSTEAD AND MARYLEBONE.
+
+By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT.
+
+
+CHELSEA.
+
+By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT.
+
+
+KENSINGTON.
+
+By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT.
+
+
+HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY.
+
+By Sir WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: STAPLE INN, HOLBORN BARS]
+
+
+
+
+The Fascination of London
+
+HOLBORN AND
+BLOOMSBURY
+
+BY
+SIR WALTER BESANT
+AND
+G. E. MITTON
+
+LONDON
+ADAM & CHARLES BLACK
+1903
+
+
+
+
+PREFATORY NOTE
+
+
+A survey of London, a record of the greatest of all cities, that should
+preserve her history, her historical and literary associations, her
+mighty buildings, past and present, a book that should comprise all that
+Londoners love, all that they ought to know of their heritage from the
+past--this was the work on which Sir Walter Besant was engaged when he
+died.
+
+As he himself said of it: "This work fascinates me more than anything
+else I've ever done. Nothing at all like it has ever been attempted
+before. I've been walking about London for the last thirty years, and I
+find something fresh in it every day."
+
+Sir Walter's idea was that two of the volumes of his survey should
+contain a regular and systematic perambulation of London by different
+persons, so that the history of each parish should be complete in
+itself. This was a very original feature in the great scheme, and one in
+which he took the keenest interest. Enough has been done of this
+section to warrant its issue in the form originally intended, but in the
+meantime it is proposed to select some of the most interesting of the
+districts and publish them as a series of booklets, attractive alike to
+the local inhabitant and the student of London, because much of the
+interest and the history of London lie in these street associations.
+
+The difficulty of finding a general title for the series was very great,
+for the title desired was one that would express concisely the undying
+charm of London--that is to say, the continuity of her past history with
+the present times. In streets and stones, in names and palaces, her
+history is written for those who can read it, and the object of the
+series is to bring forward these associations, and to make them plain.
+The solution of the difficulty was found in the words of the man who
+loved London and planned the great scheme. The work "fascinated" him,
+and it was because of these associations that it did so. These links
+between past and present in themselves largely constitute The
+Fascination of London.
+
+G. E. M.
+
+
+
+
+HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY
+
+
+The district to be treated in this volume includes a good many
+parishes--namely, St. Giles-in-the-Fields; St. George, Bloomsbury; St.
+George the Martyr; St Andrew, Holborn; Hatton Garden, Saffron Hill;
+besides the two famous Inns of Court, Lincoln's and Gray's, and the
+remaining buildings of several Inns of Chancery, now diverted from their
+former uses. Nearly all the district is included in the new Metropolitan
+Borough of Holborn, which itself differs but little from the
+Parliamentary borough known as the Holborn Division of Finsbury. Part of
+St. Andrew's parish lies outside both of these, and is within the
+Liberties of the City. The transition from Holborn borough to the City
+will be noted in crossing the boundary. As it is proposed to mention the
+parishes in passing through them, but not to describe their exact
+limitations in the body of the book, the boundaries of the parishes are
+given concisely for reference on p. 100.
+
+Kingsway, the new street from the Strand to Holborn, cuts through the
+selected district. It begins in a crescent, with one end near St.
+Clement's Church, and the other near Wellington Street. From the site of
+the Olympic Theatre it runs north, crossing High Holborn at Little Queen
+Street, and continuing northward through Southampton Row. A skeleton
+outline of its course is given on p. 28. This street runs roughly north
+and south throughout the district selected, and dividing it east and
+west is the great highway, which begins as New Oxford Street, becomes
+High Holborn, and continues as Holborn and Holborn Viaduct.
+
+The tradition that Holborn is so named after a brook--the Old
+Bourne--which rose on the hill, and flowed in an easterly direction into
+the Fleet River, cannot be sustained by any evidence or any indications
+of the bed of a former stream. Stow speaks positively as to the
+existence of this stream, which, he says, had in his time long been
+stopped up. Now, the old streams of London have left traces either in
+the lanes which once formed their bed, as Marylebone Lane and Gardener's
+Lane, Westminster, or their courses, having been accurately known, have
+been handed on from one generation to another. We may therefore dismiss
+the supposed stream of the "Old Bourne" as not proven. On the other
+hand, there have been found many springs and wells in various parts of
+Holborn, as under Furnival's Inn, which may have seemed to Stow proof
+enough of the tradition. The name of Holborn is probably derived from
+the bourne or brook in the "Hollow"--_i.e._, the Fleet River, across
+which this great roadway ran. The way is marked in Aggas's map of the
+sixteenth century as a country road between fields, though, strangely
+enough, it is recorded that it was paved in 1417, a very ancient date.
+Malcolm in 1803 calls it "an irregular long street, narrow and
+inconvenient, at the north end of Fleet Market, but winding from Shoe
+Lane up the hill westward."
+
+Holborn Bars stood a little to the west of Brooke Street, and close by
+was Middle Row, an island of houses opposite the end of Gray's Inn Road,
+which formed a great impediment to the traffic. The Bars were the
+entrance to the City, and here a toll of a penny or twopence was exacted
+from non-freemen who entered the City with carts or coaches.
+
+The George and Blue Boar stood on the south side of Holborn, opposite
+Red Lion Street, and it is said that it was here that Charles I.'s
+letter disclosing his intention to destroy Cromwell and Ireton was
+intercepted by the latter; but this is very doubtful.
+
+On Holborn Hill was the Black Swan Inn, which has been described as one
+of the most ancient and magnificent places for the reception of
+travellers in London, and which Dr. Stukeley, with fervent imagination,
+declared dated from the Conquest. Another ancient inn in Holborn was
+called the Rose. It was from here that the poet Taylor started to join
+Charles I. in the Isle of Wight, of which journey he says,
+
+    "We took one coach, two coachmen, and four horses,
+    And merrily from London made our courses;
+    We wheeled the top of the heavy hill called Holborn,
+    Up which hath been full many a sinful soul borne,"
+
+which is quoted merely to show that there is a possible rhyme to
+Holborn.
+
+Pennant says also there was a hospital for the poor in Holborn, and a
+cell of the House of Clugny in France, but does not indicate their
+whereabouts. Before the building of the Viaduct in 1869 (see p. 54),
+there was a steep and toilsome descent up and down the valley of the
+Fleet. This was sometimes called "the Heavy Hill," as in the verse
+already quoted, and in consequence of the melancholy processions which
+frequently passed from Newgate bound Tyburn-wards, "riding in a cart up
+the Heavy Hill" became a euphemism for being hanged. From Farringdon
+Street to Fetter Lane was Holborn Hill, and Holborn proper extended from
+Fetter Lane to Brooke Street.
+
+In James II.'s reign Oates and Dangerfield suffered the punishment of
+being whipped at the cart's tail all the way along Holborn.
+
+There were Bridewell Bridge, Fleet Bridge, Fleet Lane Bridge, and
+Holborn Bridge across the Fleet River. Holborn Bridge was the most
+northerly of the four. It was a bridge of stone, serving for passengers
+from the west to the City by way of Newgate. The whole thoroughfare of
+Oxford Street and Holborn is the result of the diversion of the north
+highway into the City from the route by Westminster Marshes.
+
+The antiquities of Holborn and its streets north and south are not
+connected with the trade or with the municipal history of London. On the
+other hand, the associations of this group of streets are full of
+interest. If we take the south side of the street, we find ourselves
+walking past Shoe Lane, St. Andrew's Church, Thavies' Inn, Fetter Lane,
+Staple Inn, Barnard's Inn, Chancery Lane, Great and Little Turnstiles,
+Little Queen Street, Drury Lane, and St. Giles's. On the north side we
+pass Field Lane, Ely Place, Hatton Garden, Brooke Street, Furnival's
+Inn, Gray's Inn, Red Lion Street, and Tottenham Court Road. All these
+will be found described in detail further on. Of eminent residents in
+Holborn itself, Cunningham mentions Gerarde, the author of the "Herbal";
+Sir Kenelm Digby; Milton, who lived for a time in one of the houses on
+the south side, looking upon Lincoln's Inn Fields; and Dr. Johnson, who
+lived at the sign of the Golden Anchor, Holborn Bars. There were also
+the Bishops of Ely, Sir Christopher Hatton, Francis Bacon, Sir Thomas
+More, Charles Dickens, Fulke Greville, Thomas Chatterton, Lord Russell,
+Dr. Sacheverell, and many others.
+
+It is necessary now, however, to leave off generalization, and to begin
+with a detailed account of the parishes which fall within the district;
+of these, St. Giles-in-the-Fields is the most interesting.
+
+
+ST. GILES-IN-THE-FIELDS.
+
+The name of the parish is derived from the hospital which stood on the
+site of the present parish church, and was dedicated to the Greek saint
+St. Giles. It was at first known as St. Giles of the Lepers, but when
+the hospital was demolished became St. Giles-in-the-Fields.
+
+In a plan dated 1600 St. Giles's is shown to consist largely of open
+fields. The buildings, which before the dissolution had belonged to the
+hospital, form a group about the site of the church. A few more
+buildings run along the north side of the present Broad Street. There
+are one or two at the north end of Drury Lane, and Drury House is at
+the south end. Southampton House, in the fields to the north, is marked,
+but the parish is otherwise open ground. In spite of many edicts to
+restrain the increase of houses, early in the reign of James I. the
+meadows began to be built upon, and, though a little checked during the
+Commonwealth, after the Restoration the building proceeded rapidly,
+stimulated by the new square at Lincoln's Inn Fields then being carried
+out by Inigo Jones. To St. Giles's may be attributed the distinction of
+having originated the Great Plague, which broke out in an alley at the
+north end of Drury Lane. Several times before this there had been
+smaller outbreaks, which had resulted in the building of a pest-house.
+Even after this check the parish continued to increase rapidly, and by
+the early part of the last century was a byword for all that was squalid
+and filthy. Its rookeries and slums are thus described in a newspaper
+cutting of 1845: "All around are poverty and wretchedness; the streets
+and alleys are rank with the filth of half a century; the windows are
+half of them broken, or patched with rags and paper, and when whole are
+begrimed with dirt and smoke; little brokers' shops abound, filled with
+lumber, the odour of which taints even that tainted atmosphere; the
+pavement and carriage-way swarm with pigs, poultry, and ragged
+children.... But in the space called the Dials itself the scene is far
+different. There at least rise splendid buildings with stuccoed fronts
+and richly-ornamented balustrades.... These are the gin-palaces."
+Naturally, among so much poverty gin-palaces and public-houses abounded.
+It is curious to note how many of Hogarth's pictures of misery and vice
+were drawn from St. Giles's. "Noon" has St. Giles's Church in the
+background, while his "Gin Lane" shows the neighbouring church of St.
+George, Bloomsbury; the scene of his "Harlot's Progress" is Drury Lane,
+and the idle apprentice is caught when wanted for murder in a cellar in
+St. Giles's.
+
+The gallows were in this parish from about 1413 until they were removed
+to Tyburn, and then the terrible Tyburn procession passed through St.
+Giles's, and halted at the great gate of the hospital, and later at the
+public-house called The Bowl, described more fully hereafter. From very
+early times St. Giles's was notorious for its taverns. The Croche Hose
+(Crossed Stockings), another tavern, was situated at the corner of the
+marshlands, and in Edward I.'s reign belonged to the cook of the
+hospital; the crossed stockings, red and white, were adopted as the sign
+of the hosiers. Besides these, there were numerous other taverns dating
+from many years back, including the Swan on the Hop, Holborn; White
+Hart, north-east of Drury Lane; the Rose, already mentioned. In the
+parish also were various houses of entertainment, of which the most
+notorious was the Hare and Hounds, formerly Beggar in the Bush, which
+was kept by one Joe Banks in 1844, and was the resort of all classes.
+This was in Buckridge Street, over which New Oxford Street now runs. In
+the last sixty years the face of the parish has been greatly changed.
+The first demolition of a rookery of vice and squalor took place in
+1840, when New Oxford Street was driven through Slumland. Dyott (once
+George) Street, Church Lane, Buckridge and Bainbridge, Charlotte and
+Plumtree, were among the most notorious streets thus wholly or partially
+removed.
+
+In 1844 many wretched houses were demolished, and in 1855 Shaftesbury
+Avenue drove another wedge into the slums to let in light and air. There
+are poor and wretched courts in St. Giles's yet, but civilization is
+making its softening influence felt even here, and though cases of
+Hooliganism in broad daylight still occur, they are less and less
+frequent.
+
+So much for a brief history of the parish. Its soil was from very early
+times damp and marshy. To the south of the hospital was a stretch of
+ground called Marshlands, probably at one time a pond. Great ditches and
+fosses cut up the ground. The most important of these was Blemund's
+Ditch, which divided the parish from that of Bloomsbury. This is
+supposed to have been an ancient line of fortification. Besides this, a
+ditch traversed the marshlands above mentioned, another encompassed the
+croft lying by the north gate of the hospital, and there were several
+others of less importance.
+
+The Hospital of St. Giles was the earliest foundation of its kind in
+London, if we except St. James's Hospital. Stow sums it up thus: "St.
+Giles-in-the-Fields was an hospital for leprous people out of the City
+of London and shire of Middlesex, founded by Matilde the Queen, wife to
+Henry I., and suppressed by King Henry VIII." The date of foundation is
+given by Leland and Malcolm as 1101, though Stow and others give 1117,
+which was the year before the foundress died. Before this time this part
+of London had apparently been included in the great estate of Rugmere,
+which belonged to St. Paul's.
+
+Matilda gave the ground, and endowed the hospital with the magnificent
+sum of £3 per annum! Her foundation provided for forty lepers, one
+chaplain, one clerk, and one servant. Henry II. confirmed all privileges
+and gifts which had accrued to the hospital, and added to them himself.
+Parton says, "His liberality ranks him as a second founder." During
+succeeding reigns the hospital grew in wealth and importance. In Henry
+III.'s reign Pope Alexander issued a confirmatory Bull, but the charity
+had become a refuge for decayed hangers-on at Court who were not
+lepers. This abuse was prohibited by the King's decree. In Edward III.'s
+reign the first downward step was taken, for he made the hospital a cell
+to Burton St. Lazar. The brethren apparently rebelled, refusing to admit
+the visitation of the Archbishop of Canterbury, and destroying many
+valuable documents and records belonging to the hospital. Two centuries
+later King Henry VIII. desired the lands and possessions of St. Giles's,
+and with him to desire was to acquire.
+
+The hospital was thus shorn of the greater part of its wealth, retaining
+only the church (not the manor) at Feltham (one of its earliest gifts),
+the hospital estates at Edmonton, in the City of London, and in the
+various parishes in the suburbs; and in St. Giles's parish the actual
+ground it stood on, the Pittance Croft, and a few minor places. But even
+this remnant came into the possession of the rapacious King two years
+later, at the dissolution of the monasteries, when Burton St. Lazar
+itself fell into the tyrant's hands. Henry held these for six years,
+then granted both to John Dudley, Viscount Lisle, Lord High Admiral.
+From the time of the dissolution the hospital became a manor.
+
+In the earliest charters the head of the hospital is styled Chaplain,
+but not Master. The first Master mentioned is in 1212, and after this
+the title was regularly used. The government was vested in the Master
+or Warden and other officers, together with a certain number of sound
+brethren and sisters--and in certain cases lepers themselves--who formed
+a chapter. "They assembled in chapter, had a common seal, held courts as
+lords of the manor."[1] There were also guardians or custodians, who did
+not reside in the precincts of the hospital, and these seem to have been
+chosen from the most eminent citizens; they formed no part of the
+original scheme.
+
+[1] "Some Account of the Hospital and Parish of St. Giles-in-the-Fields,"
+1822, by John Parton.
+
+[Illustration: SEAL OF ST. GILES'S HOSPITAL.]
+
+The sisters appear to have been nurses, for there is no mention made of
+any leprous sister. The chapel of the hospital appears from King Henry
+II.'s charter to have been built on the site of some older parochial
+church. The Bull of Pope Alexander mentions that the hospital wall
+enclosed eight acres. Within this triangular space, which is at present
+roughly bounded by the High Street, Charing Cross Road, and Shaftesbury
+Avenue, was one central building or mansion for the lepers, several
+subordinate buildings, the chapel, and the gate-house. Whether the
+number of lepers was reduced when the hospital possessions were
+curtailed we are not told. After the hospital buildings fell into the
+hands of Lord Dudley they underwent many changes. The principal building
+he converted into a mansion for his own use; this was the manor-house.
+It stood between the present Denmark Street and Lloyd's Court, and its
+site is occupied by a manufactory. After two years Lord Dudley obtained
+from the King license to transfer all his newly-gained estates to Sir
+Wymonde Carew, but there seems reason to suppose that Lord Dudley
+remained in possession of the manor-house until his attainder in the
+reign of Queen Mary, because the manor then reverted to the Crown, and
+was regranted. Clinch gets out of this difficulty by supposing Lord
+Dudley to have parted with his estates and retained the manor, but in
+the deed of license for exchange all his "mansion place and capital
+house, late the house of the dissolved hospital of St. Giles in the
+Fields," is especially mentioned. It is possible that Sir Wymonde leased
+it again to the Dudley family.
+
+Among the many subsequent holders of the manor we find the name of Sir
+Walter Cope, who bought the Manor of Kensington in 1612, and through
+whose only child, Isabel, it passed by marriage to Sir Henry Rich,
+created Earl of Holland. The Manor of St. Giles was in the possession of
+the Crown again in Charles II.'s reign, when Alice Leigh, created by him
+Duchess of Dudley, lived in the manor-house. This Duchess made many
+gifts to the church, among which was a rectory-house.
+
+The Church of St. Giles at present standing is certainly the third, if
+not the fourth, which has been upon the same site. As mentioned above,
+there is reason to believe from Henry II.'s charter that a sacred
+building of some sort stood here before the leper chapel. The chapel had
+a chapter-house attached, and seems to have been a well-cared-for
+building. There were several chantry chapels and a high altar dedicated
+to St. Giles. St. Giles's in the earlier charters is spoken of as a
+village, not a parish, but there is little doubt that after the
+establishment of the hospital its chapel was used as a parish church by
+the villagers. There was probably a wall screening off the lepers. The
+first church of which any illustration is preserved has a curious
+tower, capped by a round dome. The view of this church, dated 1560, is
+taken after the dissolution of the hospital, when it had become entirely
+parochial. In 1617 the quaint old tower was taken down, and replaced by
+another, but only six years after the whole church was rebuilt. A view
+of this in 1718 gives a very long battlemented body in two stories, with
+a square tower surmounted by an open belfry and vane. It possessed
+remarkably fine stained-glass windows and a handsome screen presented by
+the Duchess of Dudley.
+
+This second church did not last very long, for in Queen Anne's reign the
+parishioners petitioned that it should be rebuilt as one of the fifty
+new churches, being then in a state of decay. The present church, which
+is very solid, and has dignity of outline, was the work of Flitcroft,
+and was opened April 14, 1734. The steeple is 160 feet high, with a
+rustic pedestal, a Doric story, an octagonal tower, and spire. The
+basement is of rusticated Portland stone, of which the church is built,
+and quoins of the same material decorate the windows and angles within.
+It follows the lines of the period, with hardly any chancel, wide
+galleries on three sides standing on piers, from which columns rise to
+the elliptical ceiling. The part of the roof over the galleries is
+bayed at right angles to the curve of the central part. Monuments hang
+on the walls and columns, and occupy every available space. By far the
+most striking of these is the full-length figure of a woman in repose
+which is set on a broad window-seat. This is the monument of Lady
+Frances Kniveton, daughter of Alice Leigh, Duchess of Dudley. The
+daughter's tomb remains a memorial of her mother's benefactions to the
+parish. The monument of Andrew Marvell, a plain black marble slab, is on
+the north wall. Marvell was buried in the church "under the pews in the
+south side," but the present monument was not erected until 1764,
+eighty-six years after his death, owing to the opposition of the
+incumbent of the church. The inscription on it slightly varies from that
+intended for the original monument. Besides a handsome brass cross on
+the chancel floor to the Rector, Canon Nisbett, a tomb in form of a
+Roman altar, designed by Inigo Jones, and commemorating George Chapman,
+the translator of Homer, and a touching monument in the lobby to "John
+Belayse," put up by his two daughters, there is nothing further worth
+seeing.
+
+The graveyard which surrounds the church is supposed to have been the
+ancient interment-ground of the hospital. The first mention of it in the
+parish books is in 1628, when three cottages were pulled down to
+increase its size. It was enlarged again in 1666. Part of the old
+hospital wall enclosing it remained until 1630, when it fell down, and
+after the lapse of some time a new wall was built. In St. Giles's
+Churchyard were buried Lord Herbert of Cherbury, Shirley, Roger
+L'Estrange, Andrew Marvell, and Richard Pendrell, who assisted in
+Charles II.'s escape; his altar-tomb is easily seen near the east end of
+the church. By 1718 the graveyard had risen 8 feet, so that the church
+stood in a pit or well. The further burial-ground at St. Pancras was
+taken in 1805, and after that burials at St. Giles's were not very
+frequent. Pennant was one of the first to draw attention to the
+disgraceful overcrowding of the old graveyard. There seem to have been
+several gates into the churchyard with the right of private entry, one
+of which was used by the Duchess of Dudley. The most remarkable gate,
+however, was at the principal entrance to the churchyard, and was known
+as the Resurrection Gate, from an alto-relievo of the Last Day. This was
+erected about 1687, and was of red and brown brick. The composition of
+the relievo is said to have been borrowed, with alterations, from
+Michael Angelo's work on the same subject. In 1765 the north wall of the
+churchyard was taken down, and replaced by the present railing and
+coping. In 1800 the gate was removed, and replaced by the present
+Tuscan gate, in which the sculpture has been refixed. This stood at
+first on the site of the old one on the north of the churchyard, but was
+removed to the west side, where it at present stands in an unnoticeable
+and obscure position. It was probably placed there in the idea that the
+new road, Charing Cross Road, would run past.
+
+Denmark Street "fronts St. Giles Church and falls into Hog Lane, a fair
+broad street, with good houses well inhabited by gentry" (Strype).
+
+This description is no longer applicable. Denmark Place was once Dudley
+Court, and the house here with a garden was given by the Duchess of
+Dudley as a rectory for the parish. The Court or Row was built on the
+site of the house previous to 1722.
+
+Broad Street is one of the most ancient streets in the parish, and there
+were a few houses standing on the north side when the rest of the
+district was open ground. It was the main route westward for many
+centuries, until New Oxford Street was made.
+
+The procession from Newgate to Tyburn used to pass along Broad Street,
+and halt at the great gate of the hospital, in order that the condemned
+man might take his last draught of ale on earth. An enterprising
+publican set up a tavern near here in 1623, and called it the Bowl. He
+provided the ale free, and no doubt made much profit by the patronage
+he received thereby. The exact site of the tavern was in Bowl Yard,
+which ran into Broad Street near where Endell Street now is. Among
+Cruikshank's well-known drawings is a series illustrating Jack
+Sheppard's progress to the gallows.
+
+The parish almshouses were built in the wide part of Broad Street on
+ground granted by Lord Southampton, but were removed as an impediment to
+traffic in 1783 to the Coal Yard, near the north of Drury Lane. A row of
+little alleys--Salutation, Lamb's, Crown, and Cock--formerly extended
+southward over the present workhouse site. There are still one or two
+small entries both north and south. The immense yard of a well-known
+brewery fills up a large part of the south side, and a large iron and
+hardware manufactory on the north gives a certain manufacturing aspect
+to the street. The Holborn Municipal Baths are in a fine new building on
+the south side.
+
+About High Street, which joins Broad Street at its west end, there is
+surely less to say than of any other High Street in London. In 1413 the
+gallows were set up at the corner where it meets Tottenham Court Road.
+But even previously to this executions had taken place at Tyburn, and
+soon Tyburn became the recognised place of execution. Sir John
+Oldcastle, Lord Cobham, is the most notable name among the victims who
+suffered at St. Giles. He was hung in chains and roasted to death over a
+slow fire at this spot as a Lollard.
+
+After they had been removed from the end of Broad Street, to make way
+for the almshouses, the parish pound and cage stood on the site of the
+gallows until 1765. There was here also a large circular stone, where
+the charity boys were whipped to make them remember the parish bounds.
+
+The space to the north of the High and Broad Streets was previously a
+notorious rookery. Dyott Street, which still exists, though cut in half,
+had a most unenviable reputation. The Maidenhead Inn, which stood at the
+south-east corner of this, was a favourite resort for mealmen and
+country waggoners. There was in this street also a tavern called the
+Turk's Head, where Haggart Hoggarty planned the murder of Mr. Steele on
+Hounslow Heath in 1802. Walford mentions also Rat's Castle, a rendezvous
+for all the riff-raff of the neighbourhood. Dyott Street was named after
+an influential parishioner of Charles II.'s time, who had a house here.
+It was later called George Street, but has reverted to the original
+name.
+
+South of Great Russell Street there were formerly Bannister's Alley and
+Eagle and Child Yard running northwards. From the former of these
+continued Church Lane, to which Maynard Lane ran parallel. Bainbridge,
+Buckridge, and Church Streets ran east and westward. Of these Bainbridge
+remains, a long, narrow alley bounded by the brewery wall. Mayhew says
+that here "were found some of the most intricate and dangerous places in
+this low locality."
+
+The part of the parish lying to the north, including Bedford Square,
+must be for the present left (see p. 98), while we turn southwards.
+
+New Compton Street is within the former precincts of the hospital. When
+first made it was called Stiddolph Street, after Sir Richard Stiddolph,
+and the later name was taken from that of Sir Frances Compton. Strype
+says, "All this part was very meanly built ... and greatly inhabited by
+French, and of the poorer sort," a character it retains to this day.
+
+Shaftesbury Avenue, opened in 1885, has obliterated Monmouth Street,
+named after the Duke of Monmouth, whose house was in Soho Square (see
+_The Strand_, this series). Monmouth Street was notorious for its
+old-clothes shops, and is the subject of one of the "Sketches by Boz."
+Further back still it was called Le Lane, and is under that name
+mentioned among the hospital possessions.
+
+The north end of Shaftesbury Avenue is in the adjoining parish of St.
+George's, Bloomsbury, but must for sequence' sake be described here. A
+French Protestant chapel, consecrated 1845, which is the lineal
+descendant of the French Church of the Savoy, stands on the west side.
+Near at hand is a French girls' school. Further north is a Baptist
+chapel, with two noticeable pointed towers and a central wheel window.
+Bedford Chapel formerly stood on the north side of this. In the lower
+half of the Avenue there are several buildings of interest. The first of
+these, on the east side, is for the medical and surgical relief of all
+foreigners who speak French. Below this is a chapel belonging to the
+Baptists, and further southward a working lads' home, established in
+1843, for homeless lads at work in London. In connection with it are
+various homes in the country, both for boys and girls, and two training
+ships, the _Arethusa_ and _Chichester_.
+
+All the ground to the south of Shaftesbury Avenue was anciently, if not
+actually a pond, at all events very marshy ground, and was called
+Meershelands, or Marshlands. It was subsequently known as Cock and Pye
+Fields, from the Cock and Pye public-house, which is supposed to have
+been situated at the spot where Little St. Andrew Street, West Street,
+and Castle Street now meet. The date at which this name first appeared
+is uncertain; it is met with in the parish books after 1666. In the
+reign of William III. a Mr. Neale took the ground, and transformed the
+great ditch which crossed it into a sewer, preparatory to the building
+of Seven Dials. The name of this notorious place has been connected with
+degradation and misery, but at first it was considered rather an
+architectural wonder. Evelyn, in his diary, October 5, 1694, says: "I
+went to see the building beginning near St. Giles, where seven streets
+make a star from a Doric pillar placed in the middle of a circular area,
+said to be built by Mr. Neale." Gay also refers to the central column in
+his "Trivia." The column had really only six dial faces, two streets
+converging toward one. In the open space on which it stood was a
+pillory, and the culprits who stood here were often most brutally
+stoned. One John Waller, charged with perjury, was killed in this manner
+in 1732.
+
+In 1773 the column was taken down in a search for imaginary treasure. It
+was set up again in 1822 on Weybridge Green as a memorial to the Duchess
+of York, who died 1820. The dial was not replaced, and was used as a
+stepping-stone at the Ship Inn at Weybridge; it still lies on one side
+of the Green. The streets of Seven Dials attained a very unenviable
+reputation, and were the haunt of all that was vicious and bad. Terrible
+accounts of the overcrowding and consequent immorality come down to us
+from the newspaper echoes of the earlier part of the nineteenth
+century. The opening up of the new thoroughfares of New Oxford Street,
+Shaftesbury Avenue, and Charing Cross Road, have done much, but the
+neighbourhood is still a slum. The seven streets remain in their
+starlike shape, by name Great and Little White Lion Street, Great and
+Little St. Andrew Street, Great and Little Earl Street, and Queen
+Street.
+
+Short's Gardens was in 1623 really a garden, and a little later than
+that date was acquired by a man named Dudley Short.
+
+Betterton Street was until comparatively recently called Brownlow, from
+Sir John Brownlow of Belton, who had a house here in Charles II.'s time.
+The street is now, to use a favourite expression of Stow's, "better
+built than inhabited," for the row of brick houses of no very squalid
+type are inhabited by the very poor.
+
+Endell Street was built in 1844, at the time of the erection of the
+workhouse. In it are the National Schools, a Protestant Swiss chapel,
+and an entrance to the public baths and wash-houses, to the south of
+which rise the towers of the workhouse. Christ Church is hemmed in by
+the workhouse, having an outlet only on the street. The church was
+consecrated in 1845. In Short's Gardens is the Lying-in Hospital, the
+oldest institution of the kind in England. On the west side, between
+Castle Street and Short's Gardens, the remains of an ancient bath were
+discovered at what was once No. 3, Belton Street, now 23 and 25, Endell
+Street. Tradition wildly asserts that this was used by Queen Anne.
+Fragments of it still remain in the room used for iron lumber, for the
+premises are in the occupation of an iron merchant, but the water has
+long since ceased to flow.
+
+Drury Lane has been in great part described in _The Strand_, which see,
+p. 97. The Coal Yard at the north-east end, where Nell Gwynne was born,
+is now Goldsmith Street. Pit Place, on the west of Great Wild Street,
+derives its name from the cockpit or theatre, the original of the Drury
+Lane Theatre, which stood here. The cockpit was built previous to 1617,
+for in that year an incensed mob destroyed it, and tore all the dresses.
+It was afterwards known as the Phoenix Theatre. At one time it seems
+to have been used as a school, though this may very well have been at
+the same time as it fulfilled its legitimate functions. Betterton and
+Kynaston both made their first public appearance here. The actual date
+of the theatre's demolition is not known. Parton judges it to have been
+at the time of the building of Wild, then Weld, Street. Its performances
+are described, 1642, as having degenerated into an inferior kind, and
+having been attended by inferior audiences.
+
+At the north-east end of Drury Lane is the site of the ancient hostelry,
+the White Hart. Here also was a stone cross, known as Aldewych Cross,
+for the lane was anciently the Via de Aldewych, and is one of the oldest
+roads in the parish; Saxon Ald = old, and Wych = a village, a name to be
+preserved in the new Crescent. It is difficult to understand, looking
+down Drury Lane to-day from Holborn, that this most mean and unlovely
+street was once a place of aristocratic resort--of gardens, great
+houses, and orchards. Here was Craven House, here was Clare House; here
+lived the Earl of Stirling, the Marquis of Argyll, and the Earl of
+Anglesey. Here lived for a time Nell Gwynne. Pepys says:
+
+"Saw pretty Nelly standing at her lodgings door in Drury Lane in her
+smock-sleeves and bodice, looking upon one. She seemed a mighty pretty
+creature."
+
+The Lane fell into disrepute early in the eighteenth century. The
+"saints of Drury Lane," the "drabs of Drury Lane," the starving poets of
+Drury Lane, are freely ridiculed by the poets of that time.
+
+    "'Nine years!' cries he, who high in Drury Lane,
+    Lull'd by soft zephyrs through the broken pane,
+    Rhymes ere he wakes, and prints before term ends,
+    Obliged by hunger and request of friends."
+
+The boundary of St. Giles's parish runs down Drury Lane between Long
+Acre and Great Queen Street. Of the last of these Strype says: "It is a
+street graced with a goodly row of large uniform houses on the south
+side, but on the north side is indifferent." The street was begun in the
+early years of the seventeenth century, but the building spread over a
+long time, so that we find the "goodly row of houses" on the south side
+to have been built by Webb, a pupil of Inigo Jones, about 1646. A number
+of celebrated people lived in Great Queen Street. The first Lord Herbert
+of Cherbury had a house on the south side at the corner of Great Wild
+Street; here he died in 1648. Sir Thomas Fairfax, the Parliamentary
+General, lived here; also Sir Heneage Finch, created Earl of Nottingham;
+Sir Godfrey Kneller, when he moved from Covent Garden; Thomas Worlidge,
+the portrait-painter, and afterwards, in the same house, Hoole, the
+translator of Dante and Ariosto; Sir Robert Strange, the engraver; John
+Opie, the artist; Wolcott, better known as Peter Pindar, who was buried
+at St. Paul's, Covent Garden. Sheridan is also said to have lived here,
+and it would be conveniently near Drury Lane Theatre, which was under
+his management from 1776.
+
+[Illustration: KINGSWAY.]
+
+On the south side of the street are the Freemasons' Hall, built
+originally in 1775, and the Freemasons' Tavern, erected subsequently.
+Both have been rebuilt, and the hall, having been recently repainted,
+looks at the time of writing startlingly new. Near it are two of the
+original old houses, all that are left with the pilasters and carved
+capitals which are so sure a sign of Inigo Jones's influence.
+
+On the north side of the street is the Novelty Theatre.
+
+Great and Little Wild Streets are called respectively Old and New Weld
+Streets by Strype. Weld House stood on the site of the present Wild
+Court, and was during the reign of James II. occupied by the Spanish
+Embassy. In Great Wild Street Benjamin Franklin worked as a journeyman
+printer.
+
+Kemble and Sardinia were formerly Prince's and Duke's Streets. The
+latter contains some very old houses, and a chapel used by the Roman
+Catholics. This is said to be the oldest foundation now in the hands of
+the Roman Catholics in London. It was built in 1648, and was the object
+of virulent attack during the Gordon Riots; the exterior is singularly
+plain. Sardinia Street communicates with Lincoln's Inn Fields by a heavy
+and quaint archway.
+
+Even in Strype's time Little Queen Street was "a place pestered with
+coaches," a reputation which, curiously enough, it still retains, the
+heavy traffic of the King's Cross omnibuses passing through it. Trinity
+Church is in a late decorative style, with ornamental pinnacles, flying
+buttresses, and two deeply-recessed porches. Within it is a very plain,
+roomlike structure. The church is on the site of a house in which lived
+the Lambs, and where Mary Lamb in a fit of insanity murdered her mother.
+The Holborn Restaurant forms part of the side of this street; this is a
+very gorgeous building, and within is a very palace of modern luxury. It
+stands on the site formerly occupied by the Holborn Casino or Dancing
+Saloon.
+
+Little Queen Street will be wiped out by the broad new thoroughfare from
+the Strand to Holborn to be called Kingsway (see plan).
+
+Gate Street was formerly Little Princes Street. The present name is
+derived from the gate or carriage-entrance to Lincoln's Inn Fields.
+
+In Strype's map half of Whetstone Park is called by its present title,
+and the western half is Phillips Rents. He mentions it as "once famous
+for its infamous and vicious inhabitants."
+
+Great and Little Turnstile were so named from the turning stiles which
+in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries stood at their north ends to
+prevent the cattle straying from Lincoln's Inn Fields. The Holborn
+Music-hall in Little Turnstile was originally a Nonconformist chapel.
+After 1840 it served as a hall, lectures, etc., being given by
+free-thinkers, and in 1857 was adapted to its present purpose.
+
+LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS.--All the ground on which the present square is
+built formed part of Fickett's Field, which was anciently the
+jousting-place of the Knights Templars. A curious petition of the reign
+of Edward III. shows us that then it was a favourite recreation-ground
+or promenade for clerks, apprentices, students, as well as the citizens.
+In this petition a complaint is made that one Roger Leget had laid
+caltrappes or engines of iron in a trench, to the danger of those who
+walked in the fields. Inigo Jones was entrusted by King James I. to form
+a square of houses which should be worthy of so fine a situation. Before
+this time it appears that there had been one or two irregular buildings.
+Inigo Jones conceived the curious idea of giving his square the exact
+size of the Great Pyramid of Egypt, and it is accordingly the largest
+square in London. But when he had completed the west side only, the
+unsettled state of the country hindered further progress, and for many
+years the land lay waste, and was unenclosed save by wooden posts and
+rails; during this period it was the daily and nightly haunt of all the
+beggars, rogues, pickpockets, wrestlers, and vile vagrants in London.
+Gay thus speaks of it:
+
+    "Where Lincoln's Inn, wide space, is rail'd around,
+    Cross not with venturous step; there oft is found
+    The lurking thief, who, while the daylight shone,
+    Made the walls echo with his begging tone:
+    That crutch, which late compassion moved, shall wound
+    Thy bleeding head, and fell thee to the ground.
+    Though thou art tempted by the linkman's call,
+    Yet trust him not along the lonely wall;
+    In the midway he'll quench the flaming brand,
+    And share the booty with the pilfering band.
+    Still keep the public streets where oily rays,
+    Shot from the crystal lamp, o'erspread the ways."
+
+At this time three fields are mentioned as being included in the
+square--namely, Purse Field, Fickett's Field, and Cap Field. In 1657 the
+inhabitants made an agreement with Lincoln's Inn, to whom some of the
+rights of the Templars seem to have descended (Parton), as to the
+completion of the square. But even after the two further sides had been
+added, the centre seems to have been left in a disorderly and pestilent
+state, and it was not until 1735 that the place was properly laid out.
+In Strype's map of 1720 the sides are marked Newman's Row North, the
+Arch Row West, Portugal Row South, and the wall of Lincoln's Inn
+completes the fourth side. Strype speaks of the first two as being of
+large houses, generally taken by the nobility and gentry. The historical
+event of prominence connected with the centre of the square is the
+execution of William, Lord Russell, which took place here in 1683, on
+accusation of high treason and complicity in the Rye House Plot. He was
+beheaded in Lincoln's Inn Fields, lest the mob should rise and rescue
+him were he conveyed to the more public Tower Hill. In spite of his
+defiance of lawful authority, Russell's name has always been regarded as
+that of a patriot. He and Algernon Sydney are remembered as
+single-minded and high-souled men.
+
+Many other executions were held in those fields, notably those of
+Babington and his accomplices in 1586, fourteen in all. They were
+"hanged, bowelled, and quartered, on a stage or scaffold of timber
+strongly made for that purpose, even in the place where they used to
+meet and conferre of their traitorous purposes." At present the centre
+of the square forms a charming garden, open free to the public, with
+fine plane-trees shading grass plots not too severely trimmed, and
+flocks of opal-hued pigeons add a touch of bird-life. It is true the
+grass is railed in, but the railings are not obtrusive, and do not
+interfere with the pleasure of those who sit on the seats or walk under
+the trees. Here is assuredly one of the places where we can most feel
+the fascination of London as we contrast the present with the past.
+
+On the north side is the Inns of Court Hotel, a massive pile faced with
+stone, and with a portico of polished granite columns. This is on the
+site of an ancient hostelry in Holborn, the George and Blue Boar, a
+famous coaching inn (see p. 3).
+
+The Soane Museum is further westward, and is differentiated from two
+similarly built neighbours by a slightly projecting frontage. It was the
+former residence of Sir John Soane, who left his collection to the
+nation. There are many valuable pictures, as well as curious and
+interesting objects. The museum is open free to the public on Tuesday,
+Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday.
+
+On the west side of the square, near Queen Street, stands a very solid
+mansion, known first as Powis, then as Newcastle House. The footway in
+Great Queen Street runs under an arcade on the north side of this house,
+which was built by the first Marquis of Powis, created Duke of Powis by
+James II., whom he followed into exile, and bought in 1705 by Holles,
+Duke of Newcastle, whose nephew, who led the Pelham Administration under
+George II., inherited it. Further south on the same side is Lindsey
+House, a large building with pilasters; this was built by Robert Bertie,
+Earl of Lindsey, and was later called Ancaster House. It was described
+by Hatton as a handsome building, with six spacious brick piers before
+it, surmounted by vases and with ironwork between. Only two of these
+vases remain. The fleurs-de-lis on the house over the Sardinia Street
+entry were put up in compliment to Queen Henrietta Maria, who was the
+daughter of Henry IV. of France. The third great house on this side was
+Portsmouth House, over Portsmouth Place.
+
+The remainder of the houses have the same general character of stuccoed
+and pilastered uniformity, broken here and there by uncovered brick
+surfaces or frontages of stone. They are almost uninterruptedly occupied
+by solicitors. This is the oldest side of the square, being that built
+by Inigo Jones.
+
+At the south corner of the square there is a quaint red-brick,
+gable-ended house, with a bit of rusticated woodwork. This is all part
+of the same block as the Old Curiosity Shop, supposed to be that
+described by Dickens.
+
+On the south side rises the Royal College of Surgeons. The central part
+is carried up a story and an entresol higher than the wings, and, like
+the wings, is capped by a balustrade. The legend, "Ædes Collegii
+Chirurgorum Anglici--Diplomate Regio Corporate A.D. MDCCC," runs across
+the frontage. A massive colonnade of six Ionic columns gives solidity to
+the basement. The museum of this college has absorbed the site of the
+old Duke's Theatre. Its nucleus was John Hunter's collection, purchased
+by the college, and first opened in 1813.
+
+This side of the square is outside our present district. (See _The
+Strand_, in the same series.)
+
+The origin of the Company of Barber-Surgeons is very ancient, for the
+two guilds, Barbers and Surgeons, were incorporated in 1540; but in 1745
+they separated, and the Surgeons continued as a body alone. However,
+they came to grief in 1790, and the charter establishing the Royal
+College of Surgeons of London was granted in 1800; in 1845 the title was
+changed to that of the Royal College of Surgeons of England. The present
+building, however, dates only from 1835, and is the work of Sir C.
+Barry. It has since been enlarged and altered.
+
+With this the ancient parish of St. Giles-in-the-Fields ends, but our
+district includes Lincoln's Inn, and beyond it the parish of St. Andrew,
+Holborn, into which we pass.
+
+
+LINCOLN'S INN.
+
+BY W. J. LOFTIE.
+
+The old brick gateway in Chancery Lane is familiar to most Londoners. It
+ranks with the stone gateway of the Hospitallers in Clerkenwell, with
+the tower of St. James's Palace, and with the gate of Lambeth Palace, as
+one of the three or four relics of the Gothic style left in London. Even
+Gothic churches are scarce, while specimens of the domestic style are
+still scarcer. It need hardly be said that this tower has been
+constantly threatened, by "restorers" on the one hand, as well as by
+open destroyers on the other. It was built while Cardinal Wolsey was
+Chancellor, and was still new when Sir Thomas More sat in the hall as
+his successor. The windows have been altered, and the groining of the
+archway has been changed for a flat roof. It is said that the bricks of
+which the gate is built were made in the Coney Garth, which much later
+remained an open field, but is now New Square. A pillar, said to have
+been designed by Inigo Jones, stood in New Square, or, as it was called
+from a lessee at the beginning of the eighteenth century, Searle's
+Court. This ground and the site of the Law Courts formed part of
+Fickett's Field, the tilting-place of the Templars. Over the arch of the
+gate are carved three shields of arms. In the centre are the
+fleurs-de-lis and lions of Henry VIII., crowned within the garter. On
+the north side are the arms of Sir Thomas Lovell, who was a bencher of
+the Inn, and who rebuilt the gate in 1518. At the other side is the
+shield of Lacy. It was Henry Lacy, third Earl of Lincoln, who died in
+1311, by whom the lawyers are said to have been first established here.
+It is certain that soon after his death the house and gardens, which
+before his time had belonged in part to the Blackfriars, and which he
+had obtained on their removal to the corner of the City since called
+after them, were in the occupation of a society of students of the law.
+An adjoining house and grounds belonged to the Bishops of Chichester:
+Bishop's Court and Chichester's Rents are still local names. Richard
+Sampson, Bishop in 1537, made over the estate to Suliard, a bencher of
+the Inn, and his son in 1580 granted it to the lawyers. The gate is at
+76, Chancery Lane, formerly New Street, and later Chancellor's Lane. In
+Old Square, the first court we enter, are situated the ancient hall and
+the chapel, the south side being occupied by chambers, some of them
+ancient. The turret in the corner, and one at the south-western corner,
+behind the hall, are very like those at St. James's Palace, and probably
+date very soon after the gate. Here at No. 13 Thurloe, Oliver Cromwell's
+Secretary of State, concealed a large collection of letters, which were
+discovered long after and have been published. The hall is low, and
+cannot be praised for any external architectural features of interest.
+The brickwork, which is older by twelve years than that of the gate, is
+concealed under a coat of stucco. There are three Gothic windows on each
+side, and the dimensions are about 70 feet by 32 feet high. The interior
+is not much more imposing, but the screen, in richly-carved oak, set up
+in 1565, is handsome, and there is a picture by Hogarth of St. Paul
+before Felix.
+
+Mr. Spilsbury, the librarian, seems to have proved conclusively that the
+chapel, which stands at right angles to the old hall, was a new building
+when it was consecrated in 1623. There is no direct evidence that it was
+designed by Inigo Jones; on the other hand, there is a record in
+existence which testifies that the Society intended to employ him. John
+Clarke was the builder. There was an older chapel in a ruinous
+condition, which there is reason to believe had been that of the
+Bishops, as it was dedicated to St. Richard of Chichester. Mr. Spilsbury
+quotes one of the Harleian manuscripts, written in or about 1700, in
+which Inigo is named as the architect, and Vertue's engraving of 1751
+also mentions him. The chapel is elevated on an open crypt, which was
+intended for a cloister. Butler's "Hudibras" speaks of the lawyers as
+waiting for customers between "the pillar-rows of Lincoln's Inn." There
+were three bays, divided by buttresses, each of which was surmounted by
+a stone vase, a picturesque but incongruous arrangement, which was
+altered in the early days of the Gothic revival, being the first of a
+series of "restorations" to which the chapel has been subjected. A more
+serious offence against taste was the erection of a fourth bay at the
+west end, by which the old proportions are lost. It looks worst on the
+outside, however, and the fine old windows of glass stained in England,
+apparently after a Flemish design, are calculated to disarm criticism.
+Mr. Spilsbury attributes them to Bernard and Abraham van Linge, but the
+glass was made by Hall, of Fetter Lane. The monuments commemorate, among
+others, Spencer Perceval, murdered in 1812, and a daughter of Lord
+Brougham, who died in 1839, and was buried in the crypt. The office of
+chaplain was in existence as early as the reign of Henry VI. The
+preachership was instituted in 1581, and among those who held the office
+were John Donne, afterwards Dean of St. Paul's, who preached the first
+sermon when the chapel was new. Herring, another preacher, was made
+Archbishop of York in 1743, and of Canterbury in 1747. Another
+Archbishop of York, William Thomson, was preacher here, and was promoted
+in 1862. The greatest of the list was, perhaps, Reginald Heber, though
+he was only here for a year before he was appointed Bishop of Calcutta.
+
+The garden extends along the east side of Lincoln's Inn Fields, the New
+Square occupying the south portion, the new hall and library the middle
+part, and the west part of Stone Buildings facing the northern part. A
+terrace divides them, and there is a gate into the Fields, the roadway
+leading north to Great Turnstile and Holborn. North of the Old Buildings
+and the chapel is Stone Buildings, in a handsome classical style, with a
+wing which looks into Chancery Lane near its Holborn end, and is half
+concealed by low shop-fronts. The history of the Stone Buildings is
+connected with that of the new hall and the library. Hardwick, one of
+the last of the school which might be connected with Chambers, the
+Adams, Payne, and other architects of the English Renaissance, was
+employed to complete Stone Buildings, begun by Sir Robert Taylor, before
+the end of the eighteenth century. Hardwick was at work in 1843, and his
+initials and a date, "P. H., 1843," are on the south gable of the hall.
+The new Houses of Parliament had just set the fashion for an attempt to
+revive the Tudor style, and Hardwick added to it the strong feeling for
+proportion which he had imbibed with his classical training. This gable
+is exceedingly satisfactory, the architect having given it a dignity
+wanting in most modern Gothic. It is of brick, with diagonal fretwork in
+darker bricks, as in the gate tower. The library had been removed to the
+Stone Buildings in 1787 from a small room south of the old hall, and,
+more accommodation being required, Hardwick designed a library to adjoin
+the new hall. The two looked very well, the hall being of six bays, with
+a great bow-window at the north end. The interior is embellished with
+heraldry in stained glass, carved oak, metal work, and fresco painting.
+At the north end, over the daïs, is Mr. G. F. Watts' great picture, "The
+School of Legislation." The hall is 120 feet long, 45 feet wide, and 62
+feet high. The roof of oak is an excellent imitation of an open timber
+roof of the fifteenth century, and is carved and gilt. The windows were
+filled with heraldry by Willement, and show us the arms of the legal
+luminaries who have adorned Lincoln's Inn, many of whom are also
+represented by busts and painted portraits. The hall is connected with
+an ample kitchen, and a series of butteries, pantries, and sculleries of
+suitable size.
+
+Adjoining the hall, the library and a reading-room, which as first built
+were calculated to enhance the dignity of the hall, were soon found to
+be too small. Sir Gilbert Scott was called in to add to them. The
+delicate proportions of Hardwick suffered in the process, the younger
+architect having evidently thought more of the details, as was the
+fashion of his school. The additions were carried out in 1873, and the
+library is now 130 feet long, but shuts out a large part of the view
+northward through the gardens. It is believed that Ben Jonson worked
+here as a bricklayer, and we are told by Fuller that he had a trowel in
+his hand and a book in his pocket. Aubrey says his mother had married a
+bricklayer, and that he was sent to Cambridge by a bencher who heard him
+repeating Homer as he worked. Of actual members of eminence, Lincoln's
+Inn numbers almost as many as the Inner Temple. Sir Thomas More among
+these comes first, but his father, who was a Judge, should be named with
+him. The handsome Lord Keeper Egerton, ancestor of so many eminent
+holders of the Bridgwater title, belonged to Lincoln's Inn during the
+reign of Elizabeth. The second Lord Protector, Richard Cromwell, was a
+student here in 1647, and Lenthall, his contemporary, was Reader. A
+little later Sir Matthew Hale, whose father had also been a member, was
+of this inn, and became Chief Justice in 1671. The first Earl of
+Mansfield was a barrister of Lincoln's Inn, and four or five Lords
+Chancellor in a row, including Bathurst, Campbell, St. Leonards, and
+Brougham.
+
+From the antiquarian or the picturesque point of view Lincoln's Inn is
+not so fascinating as the two Temples. It looks rather frowning from
+Chancery Lane, where it rises against the western sky. The old hall and
+the chapel are rather curious than beautiful, and cannot compare with
+Middle Temple Hall or the Church of the Knights. The fine buildings
+which overlook the gardens and trees of Lincoln's Inn Fields owe much to
+their open situation. The Stone Buildings where they look on the green
+turf of the garden are really magnificent, but they stand back from the
+public gaze, and are but seldom seen by the casual visitor.
+
+
+CHANCERY LANE.
+
+Strype says the Lane "received the name of Chancellor's Lane in the time
+of Edward I. The way was so foul and miry that John le Breton, Custos of
+London, and the Bishop of Chichester, kept bars with staples across it
+to prevent carts from passing. The roadway was repaired in the reign of
+Edward III., and acquired its present name under his successor, Richard
+II."
+
+About half of the Lane falls within the district, being in the parish of
+St. Andrew, Holborn. In it at the present time there is nothing worthy
+of remark, except the gateway of Lincoln's Inn, mentioned elsewhere.
+Offices, flats, and chambers in the solid modern style rise above shops.
+Near the north end is the Chancery Lane Safe Deposit. On the opposite
+side the old buildings of Lincoln's Inn frown defiance. Chancery Lane
+has for long been the chief connection between the Strand and Holborn,
+but will soon be superseded by Kingsway further west.
+
+Near the north end are Southampton Buildings, rigidly modern, containing
+the Birkbeck Bank and Chambers. They are built on the site once covered
+by Southampton House, which came to William, Lord Russell, by his
+marriage with the daughter and heiress of the last Lord Southampton. It
+is difficult to realize now the scene thus described by J. Wykeham
+Archer: "It was in passing this house, the scene of his domestic
+happiness, on his way to the scaffold in Lincoln's Inn Fields, that the
+fortitude of the martyr for a moment forsook him; but, overmastering his
+emotion, he said, 'The bitterness of death is now past.'"
+
+Cursitor Street was in the eighteenth century noted for its
+sponging-houses, and many a reference is made to it in contemporary
+literature. We are now in the Liberties of the Rolls, a parish in
+itself.
+
+The Cursitors' Office was built by Bacon, Lord Keeper of the Great Seal,
+and adjoined the site of a palace of the Bishop of Chichester; and this
+adjoined the Domus Conversorum, or House of Converts, wherein the rolls
+of Chancery were kept, now replaced by the magnificent building of the
+new Record Office. Southward is Serjeants' Inn--the building still
+stands; also Clifford's Inn, once pertaining to the Inner Temple. The
+hall of Clifford's Inn was converted into a court for the adjustment of
+boundaries after the Fire of London.
+
+On the west side of Chancery Lane, a few doors above Fleet Street, Izaak
+Walton kept a draper's shop. These details about the southern part of
+Chancery Lane are mentioned for the sake of continuity, for they do not
+come within the Holborn District.
+
+Chancery Lane was the birthplace of Lord Strafford, the residence of
+Chief Justice Hyde, of the Lord Keeper Guildford, and of Jacob Tonson.
+
+Passing on into Holborn and turning eastward, we soon perceive a row of
+quaint Elizabethan gabled houses (see Frontispiece), with overhanging
+upper stories and timber framework. The contrast with the modern
+terra-cotta buildings on the north side of the street is striking. The
+old houses are part of Staple Inn, now belonging to the Prudential
+Assurance Company, whose red terra-cotta it is that forms such a
+contrast across the way. It was bought by the company in 1884, and
+restored a few years later by the removal of the plaster which had
+concealed the picturesque beams. Still within St. Andrew's parish, we
+here arrive at the City boundaries. The numbering of Holborn proper,
+included in the City, begins a door or two above the old timbered
+entrance, which leads to the first courtyard of Staple Inn. The
+courtyard is a real backwater out of the rushing traffic. The uneven
+cobble-stones, the whispering plane-trees, the worn red brick, and the
+flat sashed windows, of a bygone date all combine to make a picture of
+old London seldom to be found nowadays. Dr. Johnson wrote parts of
+"Rasselas" while a resident here.
+
+The way is a thoroughfare to Southampton Buildings, and continuing
+onward we pass another part of the old building with a quaint clock and
+small garden. Near at hand are the new buildings of the Patent Office
+and the Birkbeck Bank and Chambers, already mentioned, an enormous mass
+of masonry. The Inn contains a fine hall, thus mentioned in 1631:
+
+"Staple Inn was the Inne or Hostell of the Merchants of the Staple (as
+the tradition is), wherewith until I can learne better matter,
+concerning the antiquity and foundation thereof, I must rest satisfied.
+But for latter matters I cannot chuse but make report, and much to the
+prayse and commendation of the Gentlemen of this House, that they have
+bestowed great costs in new-building a fayre Hall of brick, and two
+parts of the outward Courtyards, besides other lodging in the garden and
+elsewhere, and have thereby made it the fayrest Inne of Chauncery in
+this Universitie."
+
+The whole of this district abounds in these one-time Inns of Chancery,
+formerly attached to the Inns of Court; but those that remain are all
+now diverted to other uses, and some have vanished, leaving only a name.
+
+Further on there is Furnival Street, lately Castle Street, and so marked
+in Strype's map. The Castle Public-house still recalls the older name.
+Tradesmen of every kind occupy the buildings, besides which there is a
+Baptist mission-house. The buildings on the east side are of the
+old-fashioned style, dark brick with flat sashed windows.
+
+Furnival Street lies within the City. The street takes its name from
+Furnival's Inn, rebuilt in the early part of the nineteenth century.
+This stood on the north side of Holborn, and was without the City. There
+is, perhaps, less to say about it than about any of the other old Inns.
+It was originally the town-house of the Lords Furnival. It was an Inn of
+Chancery in Henry IV.'s reign, and was sold to Lincoln's Inn in the
+reign of Elizabeth. Its most interesting associations are that Sir
+Thomas More was Reader for three years, and that Charles Dickens had
+chambers here previous to 1837, while "Pickwick" was running in parts.
+It was rebuilt in great part in Charles I.'s reign, and entirely rebuilt
+about 1818. With the exception of the hall, it was used as an hotel.
+The Prudential Assurance Company's palatial building now completely
+covers the site.
+
+In Holborn, opposite to the end of Gray's Inn Road, formerly stood
+Middle Row, an island of houses which formed a great obstruction to
+traffic. This was removed in 1867.
+
+The next opening on the south side is Dyers' Buildings, with name
+reminiscent of some former almshouses of the Dyers' Company. Then a
+small entry, with "Mercer's School" above, leads into Barnard's Inn, now
+the School of the Mercers' Company. The first court is smaller than that
+of Staple Inn, and lacks the whispering planes, yet it is redolent of
+old London. On the south side is the little hall, the smallest of all
+those of the London Inns; it is now used as a dining-hall. In the
+windows is some ancient stained glass, contemporary with the
+building--that is to say, about 470 years old.
+
+The exterior of this hall, with its steeply-pitched roof, is a favourite
+subject for artists. Beyond it are concrete courts, walls of glazed
+white brick, and cleanly substantial buildings, which speak of the
+modern appreciation of sanitation. A tablet on the wall records in
+admirably concise fashion the history of the Mercers' School and its
+various peregrinations until it found a home here in 1894. Before being
+bought by the Mercers' Company, the Inn had been let as residential
+chambers. It was also an Inn of Chancery, and belonged to Gray's Inn. It
+was formerly called Mackworth's Inn, being the property of Dr. John
+Mackworth, Dean of Lincoln. It was next occupied by a man named Barnard,
+when it was converted into an Inn of Chancery.
+
+The further court is bounded on the east side by one of the few very old
+buildings left in London. This was formerly the White Horse Inn, but is
+now also part of the Mercers' School buildings.
+
+Timbs quotes from Lord Eldon's "Anecdote Book," 1776, in which Lord
+Eldon says he came to the White Horse Inn when he left school, and here
+met his brother, Lord Stowell, who took him to see the play at Drury
+Lane, where "Lowe played Jobson in the farce, and Miss Pope played Nell.
+When we came out of the house it rained hard. There were then few
+hackney coaches, and we both got into one sedan-chair. Turning out of
+Fleet Street into Fetter Lane there was a sort of contest between our
+chairmen and some persons who were coming up Fleet Street.... In the
+struggle the sedan-chair was overset, with us in it."
+
+The white boundary wall of the Mercers' School replaces the old wall of
+the noted Swan Distillery (now rebuilt). This distillery was an object
+of attack in the Gordon Riots, partly, perhaps, because of its stores,
+and partly because its owner was a Roman Catholic. It was looted, and
+the liquor ran down in the streets, where men and women drank themselves
+mad. Dickens has thus described the riot scene in "Barnaby Rudge":
+
+    "The gutters of the street and every crack and fissure in the
+    stones ran with scorching spirit, which being dammed up by busy
+    hands overflowed the road and pavement, and formed a great pool
+    into which the people dropped down dead by dozens. They lay in
+    heaps all round this fearful pond, husbands and wives, fathers and
+    sons, mothers and daughters, women with children in their arms and
+    babies at their breasts, and drank until they died. While some
+    stooped their lips to the brink and never raised their heads again,
+    others sprang up from their fiery draught, and danced half in a mad
+    triumph, and half in the agony of suffocation, until they fell and
+    steeped their corpses in the liquor that had killed them."
+
+Both the Holborn and Fleet Street ends of Fetter Lane were for more than
+two centuries places of execution. Some have derived the name from the
+fetters of criminals, and others from "fewtors," disorderly and idle
+persons, a corruption of "defaytors," or defaulters; while the most
+probable derivation is that from the "fetters" or rests on the
+breastplates of the knights who jousted in Fickett's Field adjoining.
+
+An interesting Moravian Chapel has an entry on the east side of Fetter
+Lane. This has memories of Baxter, Wesley, and Whitefield. It was bought
+by the Moravians in 1738, and was then associated with the name of
+Count Zinzendorf. It was attacked and dismantled in the riots. Dryden is
+supposed to have lived in Fetter Lane, but Hutton, in "Literary
+Landmarks," says the only evidence of such occupation was a curious
+stone, existing as late as 1885, in the wall of No. 16, over
+Fleur-de-Lys Court, stating:
+
+        "Here lived
+        John Dryden,
+          Ye Poet.
+    Born 1631--Died 1700.
+       Glorious John!"
+
+But he adds there is no record when or by whom the stone was placed.
+Otway is said to have lived opposite, and quarrelled with his
+illustrious neighbour in verse. In any case, Fleur-de-Lys Court lies
+outside the boundaries of the parish we are now considering. It may,
+however, be mentioned that the woman Elizabeth Brownrigg, who so foully
+tortured her apprentices, committed her atrocities in this court. Praise
+God Barebones was at one time a resident in the Lane, and in the same
+house his brother, Damned Barebones. The house was afterwards bought by
+the Royal Society, of which Sir Isaac Newton was then President, and the
+Royal Society meetings were held here until 1782.
+
+Returning to Holborn, from whence we have deviated, we come across
+Bartlett's Buildings, described by Strype as a very handsome, spacious
+place very well inhabited.
+
+Thavie's Inn bears the name of the vanished Inn of Chancery. Here was
+originally the house of an armourer called John Thavie, who, by will
+dated 1348, devised it with three shops for the repair and maintenance
+of St. Andrew's Church. It was bought for an Inn of Chancery by
+Lincoln's Inn in the reign of Edward III. It is curious how persistently
+the old names have adhered to these places. It was sold by Lincoln's Inn
+in 1771, and afterwards burnt down. The houses here are chiefly
+inhabited by jewellers, opticians, and earthenware merchants. There are
+a couple of private hotels.
+
+In St. Andrew's Street are the Rectory and Court-house, rebuilt from the
+designs of S. S. Teulon in yellow brick. The buildings form a
+quadrangle, with a wall and one side of the church enclosing a small
+garden. In the Court-house is a handsome oak overmantle, black with age,
+which was brought here from the old Court-house in St. Andrew's Court,
+pulled down in the construction of St. Andrew's Street and Holborn
+Viaduct in 1869.
+
+Holborn Circus was formed in connection with the approaches to the
+Viaduct. In the centre there is an equestrian statue of the Prince
+Consort in bronze, by C. Bacon. This was presented by an anonymous
+donor, and the Corporation voted £2,000 for erecting a suitable pedestal
+for it. The whole was put up in 1874, two years after the completion of
+the Circus. On the north and south sides are bas-reliefs, and on the
+east and west statues of draped female figures seated.
+
+Holborn Viaduct was finished in 1869. It is 1,400 feet in length, and is
+carried by a series of arches over the streets in the valleys below. The
+main arch is over Farringdon Road, the bed of the Fleet or Holbourne
+Stream, and is supported by polished granite columns of immense
+solidity. At the four corners of this there are four buildings enclosing
+staircases communicating with the lower level, and in niches are
+respectively statues of Sir William Walworth, Sir Hugh Myddleton, Sir
+Thomas Gresham, and Sir Henry Fitz-Alwyn, with dates of birth and death.
+On the parapets of the Viaduct are four erect draped female figures,
+representative of Fine Art, Science, Agriculture, and Commerce. Holborn
+Viaduct is a favourite locality for bicycle shops.
+
+The City Temple (Congregational) and St. Andrew's Church are near
+neighbours, and conspicuous objects on the Viaduct just above Shoe Lane.
+The City Temple is a very solid mass of masonry with a cupola and a
+frontage of two stories in two orders of columns.
+
+The parish of St. Andrew was formerly of much greater extent than at
+present, embracing not only Hatton Garden, Saffron Hill, but also St.
+George the Martyr, these are now separate parishes.
+
+The original Church of St. Andrew was of great antiquity. Malcolm, who
+gives a very full account of it in "Londinium Redivivum," says that it
+was given "very many centuries past" to the Dean and Chapter of St.
+Paul's, and the Abbot and Convent of St. Saviour, Bermondsey, by
+Gladerinus, a priest, on condition that the Abbot and Convent paid the
+Dean and the Chapter 12s. per annum. We also hear that there was a
+grammar-school attached to it, one of Henry VI.'s foundations, and that
+there had been previously an alien priory, a cell to the House of Cluny,
+suppressed by Henry V. The church continued in a flourishing condition.
+Various chantries were bestowed upon it from time to time, and in the
+will of the Rector, date 1447, it is stated that there were four altars
+within the church. In Henry VIII.'s time the principals of the four inns
+or houses in the parish paid a mark apiece to the church, apparently for
+the maintenance of a chantry priest. In Elizabeth's reign the tombs were
+despoiled: the churchwardens sold the brasses that had so far escaped
+destruction, and proceeded to demolish the monuments, until an order
+from the Queen put a stop to this vandalism.
+
+In 1665 Stillingfleet (Bishop of Worcester) was made Rector. The church
+was rebuilt by Wren in 1686 "in a neat, plain manner." The ancient tower
+remained, and was recased in 1704. The building is large, light, and
+airy, and is in the florid, handsome style we are accustomed to
+associate with Wren. At the west end is a fine late-pointed arch,
+communicating with the tower, in which there is a similar window. This
+arch was blocked up and hidden by Wren, but was re-opened by the late
+Rector, the Rev. Henry Blunt, who also thoroughly restored and renovated
+the building some thirty years ago.
+
+The most interesting of the interior fittings is a porphyry altar,
+placed by Sacheverell, who was Rector from 1713 to 1724, and who is
+buried beneath it. A marble font, at which Disraeli was baptized at the
+age of twelve, is also interesting, and the pulpit of richly-carved
+wood, attributed to Grinling Gibbons, is very handsome. On the west wall
+is a marble slab, in memory of William Marsden, M.D., founder of the
+Royal Free and Cancer Hospitals. It was put up by the Cordwainers'
+Company in 1901.
+
+In the tower are many monuments of antiquity, but none to recall the
+memory of anyone notable. The church stood in a very commanding
+situation until the building of the Viaduct, which passes on a higher
+level, giving the paved yard in front the appearance of having been
+sunk.
+
+On this side of the church there is a large bas-relief of the Last
+Judgment, without date. This was a favourite subject in the seventeenth
+century, and similar specimens, though not so fine, and differing in
+treatment, still exist elsewhere (see p. 17).
+
+Malcolm mentions a house next the White Hart, with land behind it, worth
+5s. per annum, called "Church Acre," and in the reign of Henry VII. the
+priest was fined 4d. for driving across the churchyard to the Rectory.
+In the twenty-fifth year of Elizabeth's reign there was a great heap of
+skulls and bones that lay "unseemly and offensive" at the east end of
+the church. The register records the burial here, on August 28, 1770, of
+"William Chatterton," presumably Thomas Chatterton, as the date accords.
+A later hand has added the words "the poet."
+
+Wriothesley, Henry VIII.'s Chancellor, was buried in St. Andrew's
+churchyard. Timbs says that this church has been called the "Poets'
+Church," for, besides the above, John Webster, dramatic poet, is said to
+have been parish clerk here, though the register does not confirm it.
+Robert Savage was christened here January 18, 1696.
+
+There is also a monument to Emery, the comedian, and Neale, another
+poet, was buried in the churchyard. But these records combined make but
+poor claim to such a proud title. The ground on which Chatterton was
+buried has now utterly vanished, having been covered first by the
+Farringdon Market, and later by great warehouses.
+
+When the Holborn Viaduct was built, a large piece of the churchyard was
+cut off, and the human remains thus disinterred were reburied in the
+City cemetery at Ilford, Essex.
+
+The earliest mention of Shoe Lane is in a writ of Edward II., when it is
+denominated "Scolane in the ward without Ludgate." In the seventeenth
+century we read of a noted cockpit which was established here.
+
+Gunpowder Alley, which ran out of this Lane, was the residence of
+Lovelace, the poet, and of Lilly, the astrologer. The former died here
+of absolute want in 1658. His well-known lines,
+
+    "I could not love thee, dear, so much,
+      Loved I not honour more,"
+
+have made his fame more enduring than that of many men of greater
+poetical merit. In Shoe Lane lived also Florio, the compiler of our
+first Italian Dictionary. Coger's Hall in Shoe Lane attained some
+celebrity in the latter half of the eighteenth century. It was
+established for the purpose of debate, and, among others, O'Connell,
+Wilkes, and Curran, met here to discuss the political questions of the
+day. On the west side of Shoe Lane was Bangor Court, reminiscent of the
+Palace or Inn of the Bishops of Bangor. This was a very picturesque old
+house, if the prints still existing are to be trusted, and parts of it
+survived even so late as 1828. It was mentioned in the Patent Rolls so
+early as Edward III.'s reign. Another old gabled house, called Oldbourne
+Hall, was on the east side of the street, but this, even in Stow's time,
+had fallen from its high estate and descended to the degradation of
+division into tenements.
+
+Opposite St. Andrew's Church was formerly Scrope's Inn. According to
+Stow,
+
+    "This house was sometime letten out to sergeants-at-the-law, as
+    appeareth, and was found by inquisition taken in the Guildhall of
+    London, before William Purchase, mayor, and escheator for the king,
+    Henry VII., in the 14th of his reign, after the death of John Lord
+    Scrope, that he died deceased in his demesne of fee, by the
+    feoffment of Guy Fairfax, knight, one of the king's justices, made
+    in the 9th of the same king, unto the said John Scrope, knight,
+    Lord Scrope of Bolton, and Robert Wingfield, esquire, of one house
+    or tenement late called Sergeants' Inn, situate against the Church
+    of St. Andrew in Oldbourne, in the city of London, with two gardens
+    and two messuages to the same tenement belonging to the said city,
+    to hold in burgage, valued by the year in all reprises ten
+    shillings" (Thomas's edit. Stow, p. 144).
+
+This, as may be judged from the above, was not a regular Inn of
+Chancery, but appertained to Serjeants' Inn.
+
+Crossing Holborn Circus to the north side, we come into the Liberty of
+Saffron Hill, Hatton Garden, and Ely Rents. This Liberty, is coterminous
+with the parish of St. Peter, Saffron Hill. Hatton Garden derives its
+name from the family of Hatton, who for many years held possession of
+house and grounds in the vicinity of Ely Place, having settled upon the
+Bishops of Ely like parasites, and grown rich by extortion from their
+unwilling hosts. The district was separated from St. Andrew's in 1832,
+and became an independent ecclesiastical parish seven years later. As
+the Liberty of Saffron Hill, Hatton Garden, and Ely Rents, it has a very
+ancient history. It was cut in two by a recent Boundary Commission, and
+put half in Holborn and half in Finsbury Borough Councils.
+
+Ely Place was built in 1773 on the site of the Palace of the Bishops of
+Ely. The earliest notice of the See in connection with this spot is in
+the thirteenth century, when Kirkby, who died in office in 1290,
+bequeathed to his official successors a messuage and nine cottages in
+Holborn. A succeeding Bishop, probably William de Luda, built a chapel
+dedicated to St. Ethelreda, and Hotham, who died in 1336, added a
+garden, orchard, and vineyard. Thomas Arundel restored the chapel, and
+built a large gate-house facing Holborn. The episcopal dwelling steadily
+rose in magnificence and size. It boasted noble residents besides the
+Bishops, for John of Gaunt died here in 1399, having probably been
+hospitably taken in after the burning of his own palace at the Savoy.
+The strawberries of Ely Garden were famous, and Shakespeare makes
+reference to them, thus following closely Holinshed. But in the reign of
+Queen Elizabeth a blight fell on the Bishops. It began with the envious
+desires of Sir Christopher Hatton, who, by reason of his dancing and
+courtly tricks, had won the susceptible Queen's fancy and been made Lord
+Chancellor. He settled down on Ely Place, taking the gate-house as his
+residence, excepting the two rooms reserved as cells and the lodge. He
+held also part of the garden on a lease of twenty-one years, and the
+nominal rent he had to pay was a red rose, ten loads of hay, and £10 per
+annum. The Bishop had the right of passing through the gate-house, of
+walking in his own garden, and of gathering twenty bushels of roses
+yearly. Hatton spent much money (borrowed from the Queen) in improving
+and beautifying the estate, which pleased him so well that he farther
+petitioned the Queen to grant him the whole property. The poor, ill-used
+Bishop protested, but was sternly repressed, and the only concession he
+could obtain was the right to buy back the estate if he could at any
+time repay Hatton the sums which had been spent on it. But Hatton did
+not remain unpunished. The Queen, a hard creditor, demanded the immense
+sums which she had lent to him, and it is said he died of a broken
+heart, crushed at being unable to repay them. His nephew Newport, who
+took the name of Hatton, was, however, allowed to succeed him. The widow
+of this second Hatton married Sir Edward Coke, the ceremony being
+performed in St. Andrew's Church. The Bishops' and the Hattons' rights
+of property seem to have been somewhat involved, for after the death of
+this widow the Bishops returned, and in the beginning of the eighteenth
+century the Hatton property was saddled with an annual rent-charge of
+£100 payable to the See; and, in 1772, when, on the death of the last
+Hatton heir, the property fell to the Crown, the See was paid £200 per
+annum, and given a house in Dover Street, Piccadilly, in lieu of Ely
+Place. Malcolm says: "When a more convenient Excise Office was lately
+wanted, the ground on which Ely House stood was thought of for it, but
+its situation was objected to. When an intention was formed of removing
+the Fleet Prison, Ely House was judged proper on account of the quantity
+of ground about it, but the neighbouring inhabitants in Hatton Garden
+petitioned against the prison being built there. A scheme is now (1773)
+said to be in agitation for converting it into a Stamp Office, that
+business being at present carried on in chambers in Lincoln's Inn." So
+much for the history and ownership of a place which played a
+considerable part in London history. The fabric itself must have been
+very magnificent. There was a venerable hall 74 feet long, with six
+Gothic windows. At Ely House were held magnificent feasts by the
+Serjeants-at-Law, one of which continued for five days, and was honoured
+on the first day by the presence of Henry VIII. and Katherine of Aragon.
+Stow's account of this festival is perhaps worth quoting:
+
+    "It were tedious to set down the preparation of fish, flesh, and
+    other victuals spent in this feast, and would seem almost
+    incredible, and, as to me it seemeth, wanted little of a feast at a
+    coronation; nevertheless, a little I will touch, for declaration of
+    the charge of prices. There were brought to the slaughter-house
+    twenty-four great beefs at twenty-six shillings and eightpence the
+    piece from the shambles, one carcass of an ox at twenty-four
+    shillings, one hundred fat muttons two shillings and tenpence the
+    piece, fifty-two great veals at four shillings and eightpence the
+    piece, thirty-four porks three shillings and eightpence the piece,
+    ninety-one pigs sixpence the piece, capons of geese, of one
+    poulterer (for they had three), ten dozens at twenty-pence the
+    piece, capons of Kent nine dozens and six at twelvepence the piece,
+    capons coarse nineteen dozen at sixpence the piece, cocks of grose
+    seven dozen and nine at eightpence the piece, cocks coarse fourteen
+    dozen and eight at threepence the piece, pullets, the best,
+    twopence halfpenny, other pullets twopence, pigeons thirty-seven
+    dozen at tenpence the dozen, swans fourteen dozen, larks three
+    hundred and forty dozen at fivepence the dozen, &c. Edward Nevill
+    was seneschal or steward, Thomas Ratcliffe, comptroller, Thomas
+    Wildon, clerk of the Kitchen" (Thomas's edit. Stow, pp. 144, 145).
+
+During the Civil War the house was used both as a hospital and a prison.
+Great part of it was demolished during the imprisonment of Bishop Wren
+by the Commonwealth, and some of the surrounding streets were built on
+the site of the garden. Vine Street, Hatton Garden, Saffron Hill, of
+which the lower end was once Field Lane, carry their origin in their
+names. Evelyn, writing June 7, 1659, says that he came to see the
+"foundations now laying for a long streete and buildings on Hatton
+Garden, designed for a little towne, lately an ample garden." The
+chapel, dedicated to St. Ethelreda, now alone remains. It was for a time
+held by a Welsh Episcopalian congregation, but in 1874 was obtained by
+Roman Catholics, the Welsh congregation passing on to St. Benet's, on
+St. Benet's Hill in Thames Street. The chapel stands back from the
+street, and is faced by a stone wall and arched porch surmounted by a
+cross. This stonework is all modern. An entrance immediately facing the
+porch leads into the crypt, which is picturesque with old stone walls
+and heavily-timbered roof. This is by far the older part of the
+building, the chapel above being a rebuilding on the same foundation.
+The crypt probably dates back from the first foundation of De Luda, and
+the chapel from the restoration of Arundel. When the Roman Catholics
+came into possession, the late Sir Gilbert Scott was employed in a
+thorough restoration, during which a heavy stone bowl, about the size of
+a small font, was dug up. It is of granite, and is supposed to be of
+considerably more ancient date than the fabric itself, being pre-Saxon.
+From the size, it is improbable it was used as a font, being more likely
+a holy-water stoup, for which purpose it is now employed. Having been
+placed on a fitting shaft, it stands outside the entrance to the church,
+on the south side, in the cloister, which is probably on the site of the
+ancient cloister. There is a simple Early English porch, beautifully
+proportioned with mouldings of the period. Within the church corresponds
+in shape with the crypt; two magnificent windows east and west are
+worthy of a much larger building. Those on each side are of recent date,
+having been reconstructed from a filled-in window on the south side of
+the chancel. The reliquary contains a great treasure--a portion of the
+hand of St. Ethelreda, which member, having been taken from the chapel,
+after many wanderings, fell into the possession of a convent of nuns,
+who refused to give it up. Finally judgment was given to the effect that
+the nuns should retain a portion, while the part of a finger was granted
+to the church, which was accordingly done. It was this saint who gave
+rise to our word "tawdry." She was popularly known as St. Awdrey, and
+strings of beads sold in her name at fairs, etc., came to be made of any
+worthless glass or rubbish, and were called tawdry. The crypt is used as
+a regular church, and is filled with seats; service is held here as well
+as above.
+
+The timber beams in the roof are now (1903) undergoing thorough
+restoration, and the outer walls of the chapel are being repointed.
+
+From this quaint relic of past times, rich with the indefinable
+attraction which nothing but a history of centuries can give, we pass
+out into Ely Place. This is a quiet cul-de-sac composed almost wholly of
+the offices of business men, solicitors, etc. At the north end, beyond
+the chapel, the old houses are down, and new ones will be erected in
+their place. At the end a small watchman's lodge stands on the spot
+where stood the Bishops' Gateway, in which the parasite, Sir Christopher
+Hatton, first fastened on his host.
+
+Hatton Garden is a wide thoroughfare with some modern offices and many
+older houses, with bracketed doorways and carved woodwork. It has long
+been associated with the diamond merchant's trade, and now diamond
+merchants occupy quite half of the offices. It is also the centre of the
+gold and silver trade. The City Orthopædic Hospital is on the east
+side.
+
+In Charles Street is the Bleeding Heart public-house, which derives its
+name from an old religious sign, the Pierced Heart of the Virgin. This
+is close to Bleeding Heart Yard, referred to in "Little Dorrit," and
+easily recalled by any reader of Dickens.
+
+In Cross Street there is an old charity school, with stuccoed figures of
+a charity boy and girl on the frontage. The Caledonian School was
+formerly in this street; it was removed to its present situation in
+1828. Whiston, friend of Sir Isaac Newton, lived here, and here Edward
+Irving first displayed his powers of preaching.
+
+Kirkby Street recalls what has already been said about the first Bishop
+of Ely, who purchased land whereon his successors should build a palace.
+It is a broad street, and in times past was a place of residence for
+well-to-do people.
+
+The lower part of Saffron Hill was known at first as Field Lane, and is
+described by Strype as "narrow and mean, full of Butchers and Tripe
+Dressers, because the Ditch runs at the back of their Slaughter houses,
+and carries away the filth." He also says that Saffron Hill is a place
+of small account, "both as to buildings and inhabitants, and pestered
+with small and ordinary alleys and courts taken up by the meaner sort of
+people, especially to the east side into the Town. The Ditch separates
+the parish from St. John, Clerkenwell, and over this Ditch most of the
+alleys have a small boarded bridge."
+
+We can easily picture it, the courts swarming with thieves and rogues
+who slipped from justice by this back-way, which made the place a kind
+of warren with endless ramifications and outlets. All this district is
+strongly associated with the stories of Dickens, who mentions Saffron
+Hill in "Oliver Twist," not much to its credit. In later times Italian
+organ-grinders and ice-cream vendors had a special predilection for the
+place, and did not add to its reputation. Curiously enough, the resident
+population of the neighbourhood are now almost wholly British, with very
+few Italians, as the majority of the foreigners have gone to join the
+colony just outside the Liberty, in Eyre Street Hill, Skinner's Street,
+etc. Within quite recent times the clergyman of the parish dare only go
+to visit these parishioners accompanied by two policemen in plain
+clothes. Now the lower half is a hive of industry, and is lined by great
+business houses. Further north, on the east side, the dwellings are
+still poor and squalid, but on one side a great part of the street has
+been demolished to make way for a Board school, built in a way
+immeasurably superior to the usual Board school style. Opposite is the
+Church of St. Peter, which is an early work of Sir Charles Barry. This
+is in light stone, in the Perpendicular style, and has two western
+towers. It was built at the time of the separation of the district,
+about 1832.
+
+In Hatton Wall an old yard bore the name of Hat in Tun, which was
+interesting as showing the derivation of the word. Strype mentions in
+this street a very old inn, called the Bull Inn. The part of Hatton Wall
+to the west of Hatton Garden was known as Vine Street, and here there
+was "a steep descent into the Ditch, where there is a bridge that
+leadeth to Clerkenwell Green" (Strype). In Hatton Yard Mr. Fogg,
+Dickens' magistrate, presided over a police-court.
+
+Leather Lane is called by Strype "Lither" Lane. Even in his day he
+reviles it as of no reputation, and this character it retains. It is one
+of the open street markets of London, lined with barrows and coster
+stalls, and abounding in low public-houses. The White Hart, the King's
+Head, and the Nag's Head, are mentioned by Strype, and these names
+survive amid innumerable others. At the south end a house with
+overhanging stories remains; this curtails the already narrow space
+across the Lane.
+
+On the west of Leather Lane, Baldwin's Buildings and Portpool Lane open
+out. The former consists largely of workmen's model dwellings,
+comfortable and convenient within, but with the peculiarly depressing
+exteriors of the utilitarian style. Further north these give way to
+warehouses, breweries, and manufactories. East of its southern end in
+Holborn were two old inns, the Old Bell and Black Bull. The former was a
+coaching inn of great celebrity in its day, and picturesque wooden
+balconies surrounded its inner courtyard. It has now been transformed
+into a modern public-house. It was the last of the old galleried inns of
+London. The Black Bull was also of considerable age. Its courtyard has
+been converted into dwellings.
+
+Brooke Street takes its name from Brooke Market, established here by
+Fulke Greville, Lord Brooke, but demolished a hundred years ago. It was
+in Brooke Street, in a house on the west side, that poor Chatterton
+committed suicide. St. Alban's Church is an unpretentious building at
+the north end. An inscription over the north door tells us that it was
+erected to be free for ever to the poor by one of the humble stewards of
+God's mercies, with date 1860. Within we learn that this benefactor was
+the first Baron Addington. The church is well known for its ritualistic
+services.
+
+Portpool Lane, marked in Strype's plan Perpoole, is the reminiscence of
+an ancient manor of that name. The part of Clerkenwell Road bounding
+this district to the north was formerly called by the appropriate name
+of Liquorpond Street. In it there is a Roman Catholic Church of St.
+Peter, built in 1863. The interior is very ornate. Just here, where Back
+Hill and Ray Street meet, was Hockley Hole, a famous place of
+entertainment for bull and bear baiting, and other cruel sports that
+delighted the brutal taste of the eighteenth century. One of the
+proprietors, named Christopher Preston, fell into his own bear-pit, and
+was devoured, a form of sport that doubtless did not appeal to him.
+Hockley Hole was noted for a particular breed of bull-dogs. The actual
+site of the sports is in the adjoining parish, but the name occurring
+here justifies some comment. Hockley in the Hole is referred to by Ben
+Jonson, Steele, Fielding, and others. It was abolished soon after 1728.
+
+It was in a sponging-house in Eyre Street that Morland, the painter,
+died. In the part of Gray's Inn Road to the north of Clerkenwell Road
+formerly stood Stafford's Almshouses, founded in 1652.
+
+At present Rosebery Avenue, driven through slumland, justifies its
+pleasant-sounding name, being a wide, sweeping, tree-lined road.
+Workmen's model dwellings rise on either side.
+
+The northern part of Gray's Inn Road falls within the parish of St.
+Pancras. The part which lies to the north of Theobald's Road was
+formerly called Gray's Inn Lane. In 1879-80 the east side was pulled
+down, and the line of houses set back in the rebuilding. These consists
+of uninteresting buildings, with small shops on the ground-floor. On the
+west there are the worn bricks of Gray's Inn. At the corner of
+Clerkenwell Road is the Holborn Town-Hall, an imposing, well-built
+edifice of brick and stone, with square clock-tower, surmounted by a
+smaller octagonal tower and dome. The date is 1878.
+
+Gray's Inn Road is familiar to all readers of Dickens and Fielding, from
+frequent references in their novels. John Hampden took lodgings here in
+1640, in order to be near Pym, at a time when the struggle between the
+King and Parliament in regard to the question of ship money was at its
+sharpest. James Shirley, the dramatic poet of the seventeenth century,
+is also said to have lived here, but was probably in Gray's Inn itself.
+
+
+GRAY'S INN.
+
+BY W. J. LOFTIE.
+
+An archway on the north side of Holborn, nearly opposite Chancery Lane,
+admits us to Gray's Inn. It is not the original entrance, which was
+round the corner in Portpool Lane, now called Gray's Inn Road. The Lords
+Grey of Wilton obtained the Manor of Portpool at some remote period
+from the Canon of St. Paul's, who held it; we have no direct evidence as
+to whether the Canon had a house on the spot, but there are some traces
+of a chapel and a chaplain. In 1315 Lord Grey gave some land in trust to
+the Canons of St. Bartholomew to endow the chaplain in his mansion of
+Portpool. From its situation near London, the ready access both to the
+City and the country, with the fine views northward towards Hampstead
+and Highgate, this must have been a more desirable place of residence
+than even the neighbouring manor of the Bishop of Ely. It consisted in
+the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries of a gate-house which faced
+eastward, the chapel close to it on the left, and various other
+buildings, some of them apparently forming separate houses, with
+spacious gardens and a windmill. Here the Lords Grey lived for a couple
+of centuries in great state, apparently letting or lending the smaller
+houses to tenants or retainers--it would seem not unlikely to lawyers or
+students of the law, possibly their own men of business. This is no mere
+theory or guesswork. There has been too much conjecture about the early
+history of Gray's Inn, and the sober-minded topographer is warned off at
+the outset by a number of inconsistent assertions as to the early
+existence here of a school of law. Dugdale tells us that the manor was
+granted to the Priory of Shene in the reign of Henry VII., and after the
+dissolution it was rented by a society of students of the law. A
+fictitious list of Readers goes back to the reign of Edward III., but
+will not bear critical examination. The lawyers paid a rent of £6 13s.
+4d. to Henry VIII., and this charge passed into private hands by grant
+of Charles II. The lawyers bought it from the heir of the first grantee,
+and since 1733 have enjoyed the Inn rent-free. The opening into Holborn
+was made on the purchase by the society, in 1594, of the Hart on the
+Hoop, which then belonged to Fulwood, whose name is commemorated by
+Fulwood's Rents, now nearly wiped out by a station of the Central London
+Railway.
+
+The chief entrance is by the archway in Holborn. In 1867 the old brick
+arch was beplastered, obliterating a reminiscence of Dickens, who makes
+David Copperfield and Dora lodge over it. A narrow road leads into South
+Square, the north side of which is formed by the hall and library. The
+houses round the east and south sides are of uniform design, with
+handsome doorways. The hall has been much "restored," but was originally
+built in the reign of Queen Mary. It has a modern Gothic porch, carved
+with the griffin, which forms the coat armour of the Inn.
+
+The interior of the hall has been renovated, having been much injured
+in 1828, when the exterior was covered with stucco. The brick front is
+again visible, and the panelling and roof within are of carved oak.
+There are coats of arms in the windows, and on the walls hang portraits
+of Charles I., Charles II., James II., and the two Bacons--father and
+son--Sir Nicholas and Viscount St. Albans, who are the chief legal
+luminaries of the "ancient and honourable society." The library, modern,
+adjoins on the east, and contains a collection of important records and
+printed books on law.
+
+Passing through an arch at the western end of the hall, we enter Gray's
+Inn Square, formerly Chapel Court. The chapel is close to the library on
+the north side, and opens into Gray's Inn Square. This court was
+probably open on the north side to the fields before the reign of
+Charles II. Some of the buildings surrounding it are in a good Queen
+Anne style, and some have the cross-mullioned windows of a still earlier
+period. The exterior of the chapel is covered with stucco. The interior,
+which is very small--there being only seating for a congregation of
+about one hundred--was carefully examined three years ago, when a
+proposal was made to build a new chapel. The Gothic windows, walled up
+by the library to the south, came to light, and there seems some
+probability that the building is mainly that of Lord Grey's chantry of
+1315. Some improvements and repairs to the interior have saved the
+little chapel for the present. There are no monuments visible, but four
+Archbishops of Canterbury who were connected with the Inn are
+commemorated in the east window. They were Whitgift (1583-1604), Juxon
+(1660-1663), Wake (1715-1737), Laud (1633-1645), and in the centre
+Becket, whose only claim to be in such a goodly company appears to be
+that a window "gloriously painted," with the figure of St. Thomas of
+London, was destroyed by Edward Hall, the Reader, in 1539, according to
+the King's injunctions. A subsequent window, showing our Lord on the
+Mount, had long disappeared, and some heraldry was all the east end of
+the chapel could boast.
+
+The gardens open by a handsome gate of wrought iron into Field Court,
+which is westward of Gray's Inn Square. Here Bacon planted the trees,
+and enjoyed the view northward, then all open, from a summer-house which
+was only removed about 1754. Bacon lived in Coney Court, destroyed by
+fire in 1678, which looked on the garden.
+
+Among the names of eminent men which occur to the memory in Gray's Inn,
+we must mention a tradition which makes Chief Justice Gascoigne a
+student here. More real is Thomas Cromwell, the terrible Vicar-General
+of Henry VIII. Sir Thomas Gresham was a member of the Inn, as was his
+contemporary Camden, the antiquary. Lord Burghley and his second son,
+Robert, Earl of Salisbury, were both members, it is said, but certainly
+Burghley. The list of casual inhabitants is almost inexhaustible, being
+swelled by the heroes of many novels, actually or entirely fictitious.
+Shakespeare was said to have played in the hall. Bradshaw, who presided
+at the trial of Charles I., was a bencher; and so was Holt, the Chief
+Justice of William III. More eminent than either, perhaps, was Sir
+Samuel Romilly, whose sad death in 1818 caused universal regret. Pepys
+mentions the walks, and observed the fashionable beauties after church
+one Sunday in May, 1662. Sir Roger de Coverley is placed on the terrace
+by Addison, and both Dryden, Shadwell, and other old dramatists speak of
+the gardens. It was at Gray's Inn Gate--the old gate into Portpool
+Lane--that Jacob Tonson, the great bookseller and publisher of the
+eighteenth century, had his shop.
+
+The district northward of Gray's Inn needs very little comment. Great
+St. James Street is picturesque, with eighteenth-century doorways and
+carved brackets; the tenants of the houses are nearly all solicitors.
+Little St. James Street is insignificant and diversified by mews. In
+Strype's plan the rectangle formed by these two streets is marked
+"Bowling Green"; in one corner is "the Cockpitt."
+
+Bedford Row is a very quiet, broad thoroughfare lined by
+eighteenth-century houses of considerable height and size, which for the
+most part still retain their noble staircases and well-proportioned
+rooms. Nearly every house is cut up into chambers. Abernethy, the great
+surgeon, formerly lived in this street, and Addington, Viscount
+Sidmouth, was born here; Bishop Warburton, the learned theologian and
+writer of the eighteenth century, and Elizabeth, daughter of Oliver
+Cromwell, are also said to have been among the residents. Ralph, the
+author of "Publick Buildings," admired it prodigiously, naming it one of
+the finest streets in London.
+
+Red Lion Square took its name from a very well-known tavern in Holborn,
+one of the largest and most notable of the old inns. There is a modern
+successor, a Red Lion public-house, at the corner of Red Lion Street. To
+the ancient inn the bodies of the regicides were brought the night
+before they were dragged on hurdles to be exposed at Tyburn. This gave
+rise to a tradition, which still haunts the spot, that some of these
+men, including Cromwell, were buried in the Square, and that dummy
+bodies were substituted to undergo the ignominy at Tyburn.
+
+There was for many years in the centre of the Square an obelisk with the
+inscription, "Obtusum Obtusioris Ingenii Monumentum Quid me respicis
+viator? Vade." And an attempt has been made to read the mysterious
+inscription as a Cromwellian epitaph. Pennant says that in his time the
+obelisk had recently vanished, which gives the date of destruction about
+1780.
+
+The Square was built about 1698, and is curiously laid out, with streets
+running diagonally from the corners as well as rectangularly from the
+sides. It had formerly a watch-house at each corner, as well as the
+obelisk in the centre. It is at present lined by brick houses of uniform
+aspect and unequal heights, with here and there a conspicuously modern
+building. The centre is laid out as a public garden, and forms a green
+and pleasant oasis in a very poor district.
+
+St. John the Evangelist's Church, of red brick, designed by Pearson,
+stands at the south-west corner. It was built 1876-1878, and is very
+conspicuous, with two pointed towers and a handsome, deeply-recessed
+east window. Next door is the clergy house. There are in the Square
+various associations and societies, including the Mendicity Society,
+Indigent Blind Visiting Society, St. Paul's Hospital, and others. Milton
+had a house which overlooked Red Lion Fields, the site of the Square,
+and Jonas Hanway, traveller and philanthropist, also a voluminous
+writer, but who will be best remembered as the first man in England to
+carry an umbrella, died here in 1786. Sharon Turner, historian, came
+here after his marriage in 1795, and Lord Chief Justice Raymond, who
+held his high office in the reign of the first and second Georges, lived
+in the Square. But a later association will, perhaps, be more
+interesting to most people: for about three years previously to 1859 Sir
+E. Burne-Jones and William Morris lived in rooms at No. 17, before
+either was married.
+
+Of the surrounding streets, those at the south-east and north-east
+angles are the most quaint. An old house with red tiles stands at each
+corner, and the remaining houses, though not so picturesque, are of
+ancient date. The streets are mere flagged passages lined by open stalls
+and little shops.
+
+Kingsgate Street is so named because it had a gate at the end through
+which the King used to pass to Newmarket. It is mentioned by Pepys, who
+under date March 8, 1669, records that the King's coach was upset here,
+throwing out Charles himself, the Dukes of York and Monmouth, and Prince
+Rupert, who were "all dirt, but no hurt." Near the end of this street in
+Holborn was the Vine Inn, important as having kept alive the only
+reference in Domesday Book to this district, "a vineyard in Holborn"
+belonging to the Crown.
+
+Part of Theobald's Road was once King's Way; it was the direct route to
+King James I.'s hunting-lodge, Theobald's, in Hertfordshire. It was in
+this part, at what is now 22, Theobald's Road, that Benjamin Disraeli is
+supposed to have been born; but many other places in the neighbourhood
+also claim to be his birthplace, though not with so much authority.
+There was a cockpit in this Road in the eighteenth century.
+
+We are now in the diminutive parish of St. George the Martyr, carved out
+of that of St. Andrew's, Holborn, and originally including Red Lion
+Square and the streets adjacent.
+
+Gloucester Street was named after Queen Anne's sickly little son, the
+only one of her seventeen children who survived infancy. Robert Nelson,
+author of "Fasts and Festivals," was at one time a resident. The street
+is narrow and dirty, lined by old brick houses; here and there is a
+carved doorway with brackets, showing that, like most streets in the
+vicinity, it was better built than now inhabited, and it is probable
+that where sickly children now sprawl on doorsteps stately ladies in
+hoops and silken skirts once stepped forth. St. George's National
+Schools are here, and a public-house with the odd name of Hole in the
+Wall, a name adopted by Mr. Morrison in his recent novel about Wapping.
+
+Queen Square was built in Queen Anne's reign, and named in her honour,
+but it is a statue of Queen Charlotte that stands beneath the
+plane-trees in the centre.
+
+When it was first built, much eulogy was bestowed upon it, because of
+the beautiful view to the Hampstead and Highgate Hills, for which reason
+the north side was left open; it is still open, but the prospect it
+commands is only the further side of Guilford Street. The Square is a
+favourite place for charitable institutions. On the east side was, until
+1902, a College for Working Men and Women, designed to aid by evening
+classes the studies of those who are busy all day.
+
+The Hospital for Paralysis and Epilepsy is on the same side. This was
+instituted in 1859, but the present building was in 1885 opened by the
+Prince of Wales, and is a memorial to the Duke of Albany, and a very
+splendid memorial it is. The building, which occupies a very large space
+along the side of the Square, is ornately built of red brick and
+terra-cotta, with handsome balconies and a porch of the latter material.
+There are four wards for men and five for women, with two small surgical
+wards; also two contributing wards for patients who can afford to pay
+something toward their expenses.
+
+Almost exactly opposite, across the Square, is a new red-brick building.
+This is the Alexandra Hospital, for children with hip disease, and
+sometimes a wan little face peeps out of the windows.
+
+On the south side is the Italian Hospital, lately rebuilt on a fine
+scale. There are other institutions and societies in the Square, such as
+the Royal Female School of Art, but none that call for any special
+comment.
+
+Among the eminent inhabitants of the Square were Dr. Stukeley, the
+antiquary, appointed Rector of the church, 1747--he lived here from the
+following year until his death in 1765; Dr. Askew; and John Campbell,
+author, and friend of Johnson, who used to give Sunday evening
+"conversation parties," where the great Doctor met "shoals of
+Scotchmen."
+
+The Church of St. George the Martyr stands on the west side of the
+Square, facing the open space at the south end. It was founded in 1706
+by private subscription as a chapel of ease to St. Andrew, and was named
+in honour of one of the founders, who had been Governor of Fort George,
+on the coast of Coromandel. "The Martyr" was added to distinguish it
+from the other St. George in the vicinity. It was accepted as one of the
+fifty new churches by the Commissioners in Queen Anne's reign, was
+consecrated in 1723, and had a district assigned to it. It was entirely
+rearranged and restored in 1868, and has lately been repainted. It is a
+most peculiar-looking church, with a spire cased in zinc. Small figures
+of angels embellish some points of vantage, and the symbols of the four
+Evangelists appear in niches. The windows are round-headed, with tracery
+of a peculiarly ugly type; but the interior is better than the exterior,
+and has lately been repaired and redecorated throughout.
+
+Powis House originally stood where Powis Place, Great Ormond Street, now
+is. This was built by the second Marquis or Duke of Powis, even before
+he had sold his Lincoln's Inn Fields house to the Duke of Newcastle, for
+he was living here in 1708. The second Duke was, like his father, a
+Jacobite, and had suffered much for his loyalty to the cause, having
+endured imprisonment in the Tower, but he was eventually restored to his
+position and estates. The house was burnt down in 1714, when the Duc
+d'Aumont, French Ambassador, was tenant, and it was believed that the
+fire was the work of an incendiary. The French King, Louis XIV., caused
+it to be rebuilt at his own cost, though insurance could have been
+claimed. In 1777 this later building was taken down.
+
+Lord Chancellor Thurlow lived in this street at No. 46, and it was from
+this house, now the Working Men's College, that the Great Seal was
+stolen and never recovered.
+
+Dr. Mead, a well-known physician, had a house here, afterwards occupied
+by the Hospital for Sick Children.
+
+The Working Men's College began at the instigation of a barrister in
+1848, and was fathered by the Rev. F. D. Maurice, who was Principal
+until his death. It grew rapidly, and in 1856 became affiliated to
+London University. The adjacent house was bought, in 1870 additional
+buildings were erected, and four years later the institution received a
+charter of incorporation. Maurice was succeeded in the principalship by
+Thomas Hughes, and Hughes by Lord Avebury, then Sir John Lubbock.
+
+The Hospital for Sick Children is a red-brick building designed by Sir
+C. Barry. Within, the wards are lined by glazed tiles, and the floors
+are of parquet. Each ward is named after some member of the Royal
+Family--Helena, Alice, etc. The children are received at any age, and
+the beds are well filled. Everything, it is needless to say, is in the
+beautifully bright and cleanly style which is associated with the modern
+hospital. The chapel is particularly beautiful; it is the gift of Mr. W.
+H. Barry, a brother of the architect, and the walls are adorned with
+frescoes above inlaid blocks of veined alabaster.
+
+The Homoeopathic Hospital, which is on the same side of the street
+nearer to the Square, is another large and noticeable building. This is
+the only hospital of the kind in London. The present building occupies
+the site of three old houses, one of which was the residence of Zachary
+Macaulay, father of the historian. There are in all seven wards, two for
+men, three for women, one for girls, and one for children. The
+children's ward is as pretty as any private nursery could be. The
+hospital is absolutely free, and the out-patient department
+exceptionally large.
+
+In Great Ormond Street there are also one or two Benefit Societies,
+Manchester Unity Independent Order of Oddfellows for the North London
+District, and many sets of chambers. This district seems particularly
+favourable to the growth of charitable institutions.
+
+Lamb's Conduit Street is called after one Lamb, who built a conduit here
+in 1577. This was a notable work in the days when the water-supply was a
+very serious problem. Thus, a very curious name is accounted for in a
+matter-of-fact way. In Queen Anne's time the fields around here formed a
+favourite promenade for the citizens when the day's work was done.
+
+The parish of St. George, Bloomsbury, which lies westward of St. George
+the Martyr, is considerably larger than its neighbour. The derivation of
+this name is generally supposed to be a corruption of Blemund's Fee,
+from one William de Blemund, who was Lord of the Manor in Henry VI.'s
+reign. Stow and others have written the word "Loomsbury," or
+"Lomesbury," but this seems to be due to careless orthography, and not
+to indicate any ancient rendering.
+
+The earliest holder of the manor of whom we have any record is the De
+Blemund mentioned above. There are intermediate links missing at a later
+date, but with the possession of the Southampton family in the very
+beginning of the seventeenth century the history becomes clear again. In
+1668 the manor passed into the hands of the Bedfords by marriage with
+the heiress of the Southamptons. This family also held St. Giles's,
+which, it will be remembered, was originally also part of the Prebendary
+of St. Paul's.
+
+The Royal Mews was established at Bloomsbury (Lomesbury) from very early
+times to 1537, when it was burnt down and the mews removed to the site
+of the present National Gallery (see _The Strand_, same series).
+
+The parish is largely composed of squares, containing three large and
+two small ones, from which nearly all the streets radiate. The British
+Museum forms an imposing block in the centre. This is on the site of
+Montague House, built for the first Baron Montague, and burnt to the
+ground in 1686. It was rebuilt again in great magnificence, with painted
+ceilings, according to the taste of the time, and Lord Montague, then
+Duke of Montague, died in it in 1709. The house and gardens occupied
+seven acres. The son and heir of the first Duke built for himself a
+mansion at Whitehall (see _Westminster_, same series, p. 83), and
+Montague House was taken down in 1845, when the present buildings of the
+Museum were raised in its stead.
+
+The Museum has rather a curious history. Like many of our national
+institutions, it was the result of chance, and not of a detailed scheme.
+In 1753 Sir Hans Sloane, whose name is associated so strongly with
+Chelsea, died, and left a splendid collection comprising "books,
+drawings, manuscripts, prints, medals, seals, cameos, precious stones,
+rare vessels, mathematical instruments, and pictures," which had cost
+him something like £50,000. By his will Parliament was to have the first
+refusal of this collection for £20,000. Though it was in the reign of
+the needy George II., the sum was voted, and by the same Act was bought
+the Harleian collection of MSS. to add to it; to this was added the
+Cottonian Library of MSS., and the nation had a ready-made collection.
+The money to pay for the Sloane and Harleian collections was raised by
+an easy method of which modern morals do not approve--that is to say, by
+lottery. Many suggestions were made as to the housing of this national
+collection. Buckingham House, now Buckingham Palace, was spoken of,
+also the old Palace Yard; of course, the modern Houses of Parliament
+were not then built. Eventually Montague House was bought, and the
+Museum was opened to the public in 1757. However, it had not ceased
+growing. George III. presented some antiquities, which necessitated the
+opening of a new department; to these were added the Hamilton and
+Townley antiquities by purchase, and in 1816 the Elgin Marbles were
+taken in temporarily. On the death of George III., George IV. presented
+his splendid library, known as the King's Library, to the Museum, not
+from any motive of generosity, but because he did not in the least
+appreciate it. Greville, in his Journal (1823), says: "The King had even
+a design of selling the library collected by the late King, but this he
+was obliged to abandon, for the Ministers and the Royal Family must have
+interposed to oppose so scandalous a transaction. It was therefore
+presented to the British Museum."
+
+It then became necessary to pull down Montague House and build a Museum
+worthy of the treasures to be enshrined. Sir Robert Smirke was the
+architect, and the present massive edifice is from his designs. The
+buildings cost more than £800,000.
+
+As this is no guide-book, no attempt is made to classify the departments
+of the Museum or to indicate its riches. These may be found by
+experiment, or read in the official guides to be bought on the spot.
+
+On the east is Montague Street, running into Russell Square.
+
+Southampton House, the ancient manor-house, celebrated for the famous
+lime-trees surrounding it, stood on the ground now occupied by Bedford
+Place. Noorthouck describes it as "elegant though low, having but one
+storey." It is commonly supposed to have been the work of Inigo Jones.
+When the property came into the Bedford family, it was occasionally
+called Russell House, after their family name. Maitland says that, when
+he wrote, one of the Parliamentary forts, two batteries, and a
+breastwork, remained in the garden. The house was demolished in 1800,
+and Russell Square was begun soon after. A double row of the lime-trees
+belonging to Bedford House had extended over the site of this Square.
+All this ground had previously been known as Southampton Fields, or Long
+Fields, and was the resort of low classes of the people, who here fought
+their pitched battles, generally on Sundays. It was known during the
+period of Monmouth's Rebellion as the Field of the Forty Footsteps,
+owing to the tradition that two brothers killed each other here in a
+duel, while the lady who was the cause of the conflict looked on.
+Subsequently no grass grew on the spots where the brothers had planted
+their feet.
+
+Southey, in his "Commonplace Book," thus narrates his own visit to the
+spot:
+
+    "We sought for near half an hour in vain. We could find no steps at
+    all within a quarter of a mile, no, nor half a mile, of Montague
+    House. We were almost out of hope, when an honest man, who was at
+    work, directed us to the next ground, adjoining to a pond. There we
+    found what we sought, about three-quarters of a mile north of
+    Montague House, and 500 yards east of Tottenham Court Road. The
+    steps are of the size of a large human foot, about three inches
+    deep, and lie nearly from north-east to south-west. We counted only
+    seventy-six; but we were not exact in counting. The place where one
+    or both the brothers are supposed to have fallen is still bare of
+    grass. The labourer also showed us where (the tradition is) the
+    wretched woman sat to see the combat." Southey adds his full
+    confidence in the tradition of the indestructibility of the steps,
+    even after ploughing up, and of the conclusions to be drawn from
+    the circumstance (_Notes and Queries_, No. 12).
+
+A long-forgotten novel, called "Coming Out; or, The Field of the Forty
+Footsteps," was founded on this legend, as was also a melodrama.
+
+Russell Square is very little inferior to Lincoln's Inn Fields in size,
+and at the time of its building had a magnificent situation, with an
+uninterrupted prospect right up to the hills of Hampstead and Highgate,
+and the only house then standing was on the east side; it belonged to
+the profligate Lord Baltimore, and was later occupied by the Duke of
+Bolton. The new Russell Hotel, at the corner of Guilford Street, and
+Pitman's School of Shorthand, in the south-eastern corner, are the only
+two buildings to note. A bronze statue of Francis, Duke of Bedford,
+executed by Westmacott, stands on the south side of the Square; this
+faces a similar statue of Fox in Bloomsbury Square.
+
+The Square seems to have been peculiarly attractive to men high up in
+the profession of the law. Sir Samuel Romilly, the great law reformer,
+lived here until his sad death in 1818; he committed suicide in grief at
+the loss of his wife. In the same year his neighbour Charles Abbot,
+afterwards first Baron Tenterden, was made Lord Chief Justice. He was
+buried at the Foundling Hospital by his own request. In 1793 Alexander
+Wedderburn (first Baron Loughborough and first Earl of Rosslyn), also a
+resident in the Square, was appointed Lord Chancellor. After this he
+probably moved to the official residence in Bedford Square.
+
+Frederick D. Maurice was at No. 5 from 1856 to 1862. Sir Thomas Lawrence
+lived for twenty years at No. 65, and while he was executing the
+portrait of Platoff, the Russian General, the Cossacks, mounted on small
+white horses, stood on guard in the Square before his door.
+
+Bloomsbury Square was at first called Southampton Square, and the sides
+were known by different names--Seymour Row, Vernon Street, and Allington
+Row. The north side was occupied by Bedford House. It is considerably
+older than its large neighbour on the north, and is mentioned by Evelyn
+in his Diary, on February 9, 1665. In Queen Anne's reign it was a most
+fashionable locality. The houses suffered greatly during the Gordon
+Riots, especially Lord Mansfield's house, in the north-east corner,
+which was completely ruined internally, and in which a most valuable
+library was destroyed, while Lord and Lady Mansfield made their escape
+from the mob by a back-door. Pope refers to the Square as a fashionable
+place of resort. Among the names of famous residents we have Sir Richard
+Steele, Richard Baxter, the Nonconformist divine, Dr. Akenside, and Sir
+Hans Sloane. The elder D'Israeli, who compiled "Curiosities of
+Literature," lived in No. 6; he came here in 1818, when his famous son
+was a boy of fourteen.
+
+The College of Preceptors stands on the south side. The Pharmaceutical
+Society, established in 1841, first took a house in the Square in that
+year. It was incorporated by royal charter two years later, and in 1857
+the two adjacent houses in Great Russell Street were added to the
+premises, which include a library and museum. There is also at No. 30
+the Institute of Chemistry of Great Britain and Ireland.
+
+In Southampton Street Colley Cibber, the dramatist and actor, was born.
+
+Silver Street, which is connected with Southampton Street by a covered
+entry, is described by Strype as "indifferent well built and
+inhabited"--a character it apparently keeps up to this day.
+
+Bloomsbury Market Strype describes as "a long place with two
+market-houses, the one for flesh and the other for fish, but of small
+account by reason the market is of so little use and so ill served with
+provisions, insomuch that the inhabitants deal elsewhere." In Parton's
+time it was still extant, "exhibiting little of that bustle and business
+which distinguishes similar establishments." Though it was cleared away
+in 1847, its site is marked by Market Street, which with Silver and
+Bloomsbury Streets forms a cross.
+
+Southampton Row is a very long street, extending from Russell Square to
+High Holborn. It includes what was formerly King Street and Upper King
+Street, which together reached from High Holborn to Bloomsbury Place.
+Gray, the poet, lodged in this Row in 1759.
+
+The Church of St. George is in Hart Street. St. George's parish was
+formed from St. Giles's on account of the great increase of buildings in
+this district. In 1710 the proposal for a new church was first mooted,
+and in 1724 the parishes were officially separated. The church stands on
+a piece of ground formerly known as Plough Yard. It is the work of
+Hawkesmoor, Wren's pupil, and was consecrated in 1730. It cannot be
+better described than in the words of Noorthouck: "This is an irregular
+and oddly constructed church; the portico stands on the south side, of
+the Corinthian order, and makes a good figure in the street, but has no
+affinity to the church, which is very heavy, and would be better suited
+with a Tuscan portico. The steeple at the west is a very extraordinary
+structure; on a round pedestal at the top of a pyramid is placed a
+colossal statue of the late King [George I.], and at the corners near
+the base are alternately placed the lion and unicorn, the British
+supporters, with festoons between. These animals, being very large, are
+injudiciously placed over columns very small, which make them appear
+monsters." The lions and unicorns have now been removed. This steeple
+has been described by Horace Walpole as a masterpiece of absurdity.
+Within, the walls rise right up to the roof with no break, and give an
+impression of great spaciousness. There is a small chapel on either
+side, that on the east, of an apselike shape, being used as a
+baptistery. The western one contains a ponderous monument erected in
+memory of one of their officials by the East India Company. There are
+other monuments in the church, but none of any general interest. The
+Communion-table is enclosed by a wooden canopy with fluted columns,
+said to be of Italian origin, and to have been brought from old Montague
+House.
+
+In Little Russell Street are the parochial schools. These were
+established in 1705 in Museum Street, and were removed in 1880 to the
+present building. They were founded by Dr. Carter for the maintenance,
+clothing, and education of twenty-five girls, and the clothing and
+education of eighty boys. The intentions of the founder are still
+carried out, as recorded on a stone slab on the front of the building,
+which is a neat brick edifice, with a group of a woman and child in
+stone in a niche high up, and an appropriate verse from Proverbs below.
+
+Allusion has already been made to New Oxford Street. It extends from
+Tottenham Court Road to Bury Street, and is lined by fine shops and
+large buildings, chiefly in the ornamental stuccoed style. The Royal
+Arcade--"a glass-roofed arcade of shops extending along the rear of four
+or five of the houses, and having an entrance from the street at each
+end"--was opened about 1852, but did not answer the expectations formed
+of it, and was pulled down (Walford).
+
+At the corner of Museum Street, once Peter Street, is Mudie's famous
+library. The founder, who died in 1890, began a lending library in King
+Street in 1840, and in 1852 removed to the present quarters. In 1864 the
+concern was turned into a limited liability company. The distribution
+of books now reaches almost incredible figures.
+
+Great Russell Street Strype describes as being very handsome and very
+well inhabited. Thanet House, the town residence of the Thanets in the
+seventeenth century, stood on the north side. Sir Christopher Wren built
+a house for himself in this street. Among the inhabitants and lodgers
+have been Shelley and Hazlitt, J. P. Kemble, Speaker Onslow, Pugin the
+elder, Charles Mathews the elder, and, in later years, Sir E.
+Burne-Jones.
+
+At the west end Great Russell Street runs into Tottenham Court Road, a
+portion of which lies in the parish of St. Giles. Toten Hall itself,
+from which the name is taken, stood at the south end of the Hampstead
+Road, and an account of it belongs to the parish of St. Pancras. There
+is little to remark upon in that part of the Road we can now claim. At
+the south end is Meux's well-known brewery, bought by the family of that
+name in 1809. In 1814 an immense vat burst here, which flooded the
+immediate neighbourhood in a deluge of liquor. The Horseshoe Hotel can
+claim fairly ancient descent; it has been in existence as a tavern from
+1623. It was called the Horseshoe from the shape of its first
+dining-room. A Consumption Hospital stands midway between North and
+South Crescent.
+
+Bedford Square also falls within St. Giles's parish, but it belongs by
+character and date to Bloomsbury. The Square was erected about the very
+end of the eighteenth century. Dobie says that "Bedford Square arose
+from a cow-yard to its present magnificent form ... with its avenues and
+neighbouring streets ... chiefly erected since 1778," while it appears
+in a map of 1799 as "St. Giles's Runs." The official residence of the
+Lord Chancellor was on the east side. Lord Loughborough lived there, and
+subsequently Lord Eldon, who had to escape with his wife into the
+British Museum gardens when the mob made an attack on his house during
+the Corn Law riots.
+
+The streets running north and south are all of the same prosperous,
+substantial character. About Chenies Street large modern red-brick
+mansions have arisen.
+
+Woburn Square is a quiet place, with fine trees growing in its pleasant
+garden. In it is Christ Church, the work of Vulliamy, date 1833. It is
+of Gothic architecture, and is prettily finished with buttresses and
+pinnacles, in spite of the ugly material used--namely, white brick. It
+was at first designed to call the Square Rothesay Square, but it was
+eventually named Woburn, after the seat of the Duke of Bedford.
+
+Great Coram Street was, of course, named after the genial founder of the
+Foundling Hospital. In it is the Russell Institution, built at the
+beginning of the century as an assembly-room, and later used as
+institute and club. It was frequently visited by Dickens, Leech, and
+Thackeray, the last named of whom came here in 1837, and remained until
+1843, when the house had to be given up owing to the incurable nature of
+his wife's mental malady. He wrote here many papers and articles,
+including the famous "Yellow-plush Papers," which appeared in _Fraser's
+Magazine_; but his novels belong to a later period.
+
+We have now wandered over a district rich in association, containing
+some of the oldest domestic architecture existing in London, but which,
+taken as a whole, is chiefly of a date belonging to the late seventeenth
+and early eighteenth centuries--a date when ladies wore powder and
+patches, when sedan-chairs were more common than hackney cabs, and when
+the voice of the link-boy was heard in the streets.
+
+
+
+
+BOUNDARIES OF THE ECCLESIASTICAL PARISHES.
+
+
+ST. GILES-IN-THE-FIELDS.
+
+This parish is bounded on the south by Castle Street; east by part of
+Drury Lane, Broad Street, and Dyott Street, thence by a line cutting
+diagonally across the south-east corner of Bedford Square, across Keppel
+Street and Torrington Mews, and touching Byng Place at the north-west
+corner of Torrington Square; on the north by a line cutting across from
+this point westward, and striking Tottenham Court Road just above Alfred
+Mews; on the westward by Tottenham Court Road and Charing Cross Road to
+Cambridge Circus, thence by West Street to the corner of Castle Street,
+and so the circuit is complete.
+
+
+ST. GEORGE THE MARTYR.
+
+Bounded on the south by Theobald's Road, on the east by Lamb's Conduit
+Street (both included in the parish), on the north by Guilford Street,
+and on the west by Southampton Row (which are not so included).
+
+
+ST. ANDREW, HOLBORN.
+
+Bounded on the east by Farringdon Street from Charterhouse Street to No.
+66, which is just beyond Farringdon Avenue; on the north by Holborn and
+High Holborn from the Viaduct Bridge to Brownlow Street; on the west by
+a line drawn from the upper end of Brownlow Street across High Holborn,
+cutting through No. 292, and through part of Lincoln's Inn (taking in
+Stone Buildings, and as far as a few yards south of Henry VIII.'s
+gateway); on the south by a line from Lincoln's Inn across Chancery
+Lane, along Cursitor Street, cutting across Fetter Lane, down Dean
+Street to Robin Hood Court, across Shoe Lane to Farringdon Street.
+
+
+ST. GEORGE, BLOOMSBURY.
+
+Bounded on the south by Broad Street and High Holborn to Kingsgate
+Street; on the east by Kingsgate Street, and a line behind the east side
+of Southampton Row (including it), coming out at No. 54, Guilford
+Street; on the north by a line across the north side of Russell Square
+and along Keppel Street; on the west from thence by a diagonal line,
+which cuts off the south-east corner of Bedford Square to Dyott Street,
+and so to Broad Street.
+
+
+HATTON GARDEN, SAFFRON HILL.
+
+Bounded on the west by Leather Lane; on the south by Holborn and
+Charterhouse Street to Farringdon Road; on the east by Farringdon Road;
+and on the north by Back Hill.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+Abernethy, 78
+
+Akenside, Dr., 93
+
+Aldewych, 26
+
+Alexandra Hospital, 83
+
+Ancaster House, 34
+
+Arundel, Bishop, 60
+
+
+Babington, 33
+
+Bacon, Francis, 6
+
+Bacon, Roger, 75, 76
+
+Bainbridge Street, 21
+
+Bangor Court, 59
+
+Barnard's Inn, 49
+
+Baxter, Richard, 51, 93
+
+Bedford Row, 78
+
+Bedford Square, 97
+
+Belayse, John, 16
+
+Betterton, 25
+
+Betterton Street, 24
+
+Birkbeck Bank, 45
+
+Black Bull, 70
+
+Black Swan, 3
+
+Bleeding Heart Yard, 67
+
+Bloomsbury Market, 94
+
+Bowl, The, 18
+
+Bradshaw, 77
+
+British Museum, 88
+
+Broad Street, 18
+
+Brooke Street, 70
+
+Brownlow, Sir John, 24
+
+Buckridge Street, 21
+
+Burghley, Lord, 77
+
+Burne-Jones, Sir E., 80, 97
+
+Burton St. Lazar, 11
+
+
+Caledonian School, 67
+
+Camden, 77
+
+Carew, Sir Wymonde, 13
+
+Chancery Lane, 44
+
+Chapman, George, 16
+
+Charles Street, 67
+
+Chatterton, Thomas, 57, 70
+
+Church Street, 21
+
+Churches:
+  Christ Church, 24
+  City Temple, 54
+  St. Andrew's, 54
+  St. Ethelreda's Chapel, 64
+  St. George the Martyr, 83
+  St. George's, Bloomsbury, 94
+  St. Giles's, 8, 14
+  St. John the Evangelist's, 79
+  St. Peter's, 68
+  Moravian Chapel, 51
+  Trinity Church, 30
+
+Cibber, Colley, 93
+
+Clare House, 26
+
+Clifford's Inn, 45
+
+Coal Yard, 19, 25
+
+Cope, Sir Walter, 14
+
+Cobham, Lord, 19
+
+Cock and Pye, The, 22
+
+Cockpit, 25
+
+Coke, Sir Edward, 62
+
+College of Preceptors, 93
+
+Craven House, 26
+
+Croche Hose, 8
+
+Cromwell, Oliver, 78
+
+Cromwell, Richard, 43
+
+Cromwell, Thomas, 76
+
+Cross Street, 67
+
+Cursitor Street, 45
+
+
+De Luda, Bishop, 60
+
+Denmark Street, 18
+
+Dickens, Charles, 48
+
+Digby, Sir Kenelm, 6
+
+Disraeli, Benjamin, 81
+
+D'Israeli, Isaac, 93
+
+Donne, John, 40
+
+Drury Lane, 25
+
+Dudley, Duchess of, 14
+
+Dyers' Buildings, 49
+
+Dyott Street, 20
+
+
+Earl Street, 24
+
+Edward III., 11
+
+Egerton, Lord Keeper, 43
+
+Emery, 58
+
+Endell Street, 24
+
+Ely Place, 60
+
+Eyre Street, 71
+
+
+Fairfax, Sir Thomas, 27
+
+Fetter Lane, 51
+
+Fickett's Field, 31
+
+Field Lane, 67
+
+Fleur-de-Lys Court, 52
+
+Florio, 58
+
+Franklin, Benjamin, 29
+
+Freemasons' Hall, 27
+
+Furnival's Inn, 48
+
+Furnival Street, 48
+
+
+Gate Street, 30
+
+George and Blue Boar, 3
+
+Gerarde, 5
+
+Gloucester Street, 81
+
+Goldsmith Street, 25
+
+Gordon Riots, 51, 93
+
+Gray's Inn, 72
+
+Gray, Thomas, 94
+
+Great and Little Turnstile, 30
+
+Great Coram Street, 98
+
+Great Ormond Street, 84
+
+Great Queen Street, 27
+
+Great Russell Street, 97
+
+Gresham, Sir T., 77
+
+Greville, Fulke, 6
+
+Guildford, Lord Keeper, 46
+
+Gunpowder Alley, 58
+
+Gwynne, Nell, 25, 26
+
+
+Hale, Sir Matthew, 43
+
+Hanway, Jonas, 79
+
+Hare and Hounds, 9
+
+Hatton Garden, 60, 66
+
+Hatton, Sir Christopher, 61
+
+Hatton Wall, 69
+
+Hazlitt, 97
+
+Henry II., 10
+
+Henry VIII., 11
+
+Herbert of Cherbury, Lord, 17, 27
+
+Herring, Bishop, 40
+
+High Street, 19
+
+Hockley Hole, 71
+
+Hogarth, 8
+
+Hoggarty, Haggart, 20
+
+Holborn, 3
+
+Holborn Baths, 19
+
+Holborn, Borough of, 1
+
+Holborn Bridge, 5
+
+Holborn Circus, 53
+
+Holborn Hill, 4
+
+Holborn Music Hall, 30
+
+Holborn Restaurant, 30
+
+Holborn Town Hall, 72
+
+Holborn Viaduct, 54
+
+Homoeopathic Hospital, 85
+
+Hoole, 27
+
+Hospital for Paralysis, 82
+
+Hospital for Sick Children, 85
+
+Hyde, Chief Justice, 46
+
+
+Inns of Court Hotel, 33
+
+Irving, Edward, 67
+
+Italian Hospital, 83
+
+
+Johnson, Dr., 6
+
+Jonson, Ben, 42
+
+
+Kemble, 97
+
+Kemble Street, 29
+
+Kingsgate Street, 80
+
+Kingsway, 2, 29
+
+Kirkby, Bishop, 60
+
+Kirkby Street, 67
+
+Kneller, Sir Godfrey, 27
+
+Kniveton, Lady Frances, 16
+
+Kynaston, 25
+
+
+Lamb, Mary, 30
+
+Lamb's Conduit Street, 86
+
+Lawrence, Sir Thomas, 92
+
+Leather Lane, 69
+
+Le Lane, 21
+
+Lenthall, 43
+
+L'Estrange, Roger, 17
+
+Lilly, 58
+
+Lincoln, Earl of, 37
+
+Lincoln's Inn, 36
+
+Lincoln's Inn Fields, 31
+
+Lindsey House, 34
+
+Lisle, Viscount, 11
+
+Little Queen Street, 29
+
+Little Russell Street, 96
+
+Long Fields, 90
+
+Lord Chancellor's House, 98
+
+Lovelace, 58
+
+Lovell, Sir Thomas, 37
+
+Lying-in Hospital, 24
+
+
+Macaulay, Zachary, 86
+
+Mackworth, Dr. John, 50
+
+Manor House, 13, 18
+
+Marsden, William, 56
+
+Marshlands, 9, 22
+
+Marvell, Andrew, 16, 17
+
+Mathews, Charles, 97
+
+Matilda, Queen, 10
+
+Maurice, Rev. F. D., 85, 92
+
+Mead, Dr., 84
+
+Mercers' School, 49
+
+Meux's Brewery, 97
+
+Middle Row, 3, 49
+
+Milton, 6, 79
+
+Monmouth Street, 21
+
+Montague House, 87
+
+More, Sir Thomas, 6, 37, 43, 48
+
+Morland, 71
+
+Morris, William, 80
+
+Mudie's Library, 96
+
+
+Nelson, Robert, 81
+
+Newcastle House, 34
+
+New Compton Street, 21
+
+New Oxford Street, 9, 96
+
+Nisbett, Canon, 16
+
+Nottingham, Earl of, 27
+
+Novelty Theatre, 29
+
+
+O'Connell, 58
+
+Old Bell, 70
+
+"Old Bourne" 2
+
+Old Curiosity Shop, 35
+
+Onslow, Speaker, 97
+
+Opie, John, 27
+
+
+Pendrell, Richard, 17
+
+Pepys, 26
+
+Pindar, Peter, 27
+
+Portpool Lane, 70
+
+Portsmouth House, 35
+
+Powis, Duke of, 34
+
+Powis House, 84
+
+Pugin, 97
+
+
+Queen Square, 81
+
+Queen Street, 24
+
+
+Raymond, Lord, 80
+
+Red Lion Square, 78
+
+Romilly, Sir S., 77, 92
+
+Rose, The, 4
+
+Rosebery Avenue, 71
+
+Royal College of Surgeons, 35
+
+Royal Mews, 87
+
+Royal Society, 52
+
+Russell Institution, 99
+
+Russell, Lord, 32, 45
+
+Russell Square, 91
+
+
+Sacheverell, 6, 56
+
+St. Andrew's Street, 24, 53
+
+St. Giles's Burial-ground, 17
+
+St Giles's Hospital, 10
+
+St. Giles-in-the-Fields, Parish of, 6
+
+St. James's Street, 77
+
+Sardinia Street, 29
+
+Savage, Robert, 57
+
+Scrope's Inn, 59
+
+Serjeants' Inn, 45
+
+Seven Dials, 7, 23
+
+Shaftesbury Avenue, 9, 21
+
+Shakespeare, 77
+
+Shelley, Percy, 97
+
+Sheridan, 27
+
+Shirley, 17
+
+Shoe Lane, 58
+
+Short's Gardens, 24
+
+Sidmouth, Viscount, 78
+
+Silver Street, 94
+
+Sloane, Sir Hans, 93
+
+Soane Museum, 34
+
+Southampton Buildings, 46
+
+Southampton House, 90
+
+Southampton Row, 94
+
+Southampton Street, 93
+
+Staple Inn, 46, 47
+
+Steele, Sir Richard, 93
+
+Stiddolph Street, 21
+
+Stillingfleet, Bishop of Worcester, 56
+
+Stratford, Lord, 46
+
+Strange, Sir Robert, 27
+
+Stukeley, Dr., 83
+
+Swan Distillery, 50
+
+Swan on the Hop, 8
+
+
+Thackeray, 99
+
+Thanet House, 97
+
+Thavie's Inn, 53
+
+Theobald's Road, 81
+
+Thomson, Bishop, 40
+
+Thurlow, Lord, 85
+
+Tonson, Jacob, 46, 77
+
+Toten Hall, 97
+
+Tottenham Court Road, 97
+
+Turk's Head, The, 20
+
+Turner, Sharon, 80
+
+Tyburn procession, 8, 18
+
+
+Vine Inn, 80
+
+
+Walton, Izaak, 46
+
+Warburton, Bishop, 78
+
+Webster, John, 57
+
+Wedderburn, Alexander, 92
+
+Wesley, 51
+
+Whetstone Park, 30
+
+Whiston, 67
+
+Whitefield, 51
+
+White Hart, The, 8, 26
+
+White Horse Inn, 50
+
+White Lion Street, 24
+
+Wild House, 29
+
+Wild Street, Great, 29
+
+Wilkes, 59
+
+Woburn Square, 98
+
+Wolsey, Cardinal, 37
+
+Working Men's College, 85
+
+Worlidge, Thomas, 27
+
+Wren, Sir Christopher, 97
+
+Wriothesley, 57
+
+
+Zinzendorf, Count, 52
+
+
+THE END
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: HOLBORN DISTRICT
+
+Published by A. & C. Black, London.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Transcriber's Notes
+
+The following errors in the original text have been corrected:
+
+Page 89: In then became changed to It then became
+
+Page 103: Bambridge Street, 21 changed to Bainbridge Street, 21
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Holborn and Bloomsbury, by 
+Sir Walter Besant and Geraldine Edith Mitton
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY ***
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Holborn and Bloomsbury, by 
+Sir Walter Besant and Geraldine Edith Mitton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Holborn and Bloomsbury
+       The Fascination of London
+
+Author: Sir Walter Besant
+        Geraldine Edith Mitton
+
+Release Date: May 9, 2007 [EBook #21411]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 80px;">
+<img src="images/image002.jpg" width="80" height="600" alt="Spine" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 412px;">
+<img src="images/image001.jpg" width="412" height="600" alt="Front Cover" title="" />
+</div></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h1><i>THE FASCINATION<br />
+OF LONDON</i><br />
+<br />
+HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY</h1>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h3><i>IN THIS SERIES.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="center">Cloth, price 1s. 6d. net; leather, price 2s. net each.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>THE STRAND DISTRICT.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center">By <span class="smcap">Sir Walter Besant</span> and <span class="smcap">G. E. Mitton</span>.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>WESTMINSTER.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center">By <span class="smcap">Sir Walter Besant</span> and <span class="smcap">G. E. Mitton</span>.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>HAMPSTEAD AND MARYLEBONE.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center">By <span class="smcap">G. E. Mitton</span>. Edited by <span class="smcap">Sir Walter Besant</span>.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>CHELSEA.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center">By <span class="smcap">G. E. Mitton</span>. Edited by <span class="smcap">Sir Walter Besant</span>.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>KENSINGTON.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center">By <span class="smcap">G. E. Mitton</span>. Edited by <span class="smcap">Sir Walter Besant</span>.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center">By <span class="smcap">Sir Walter Besant</span> and <span class="smcap">G. E. Mitton</span>.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 800px;">
+<a name="frontispiece" id="frontispiece"></a>
+<img src="images/image003.jpg" width="800" height="557" alt="STAPLE INN, HOLBORN BARS" title="" />
+<span class="caption">STAPLE INN, HOLBORN BARS</span>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 385px;">
+<img src="images/image004.jpg" width="385" height="600" alt="The Fascination of London
+
+HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY
+
+BY SIR WALTER BESANT AND G. E. MITTON" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h2>The Fascination of
+London</h2>
+
+<h1>HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY</h1>
+
+<p class="center">BY<br />
+<span style="font-size: x-large;">SIR WALTER BESANT</span><br />
+AND<br />
+<span style="font-size: x-large;">G. E. MITTON</span></p>
+
+<p class="center">LONDON<br />
+ADAM &amp; CHARLES BLACK<br />
+1903</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="PREFATORY_NOTE" id="PREFATORY_NOTE"></a>PREFATORY NOTE</h2>
+
+
+<p>A survey of London, a record of the greatest of all cities, that should
+preserve her history, her historical and literary associations, her
+mighty buildings, past and present, a book that should comprise all that
+Londoners love, all that they ought to know of their heritage from the
+past&mdash;this was the work on which Sir Walter Besant was engaged when he
+died.</p>
+
+<p>As he himself said of it: "This work fascinates me more than anything
+else I've ever done. Nothing at all like it has ever been attempted
+before. I've been walking about London for the last thirty years, and I
+find something fresh in it every day."</p>
+
+<p>Sir Walter's idea was that two of the volumes of his survey should
+contain a regular and systematic perambulation of London by different
+persons, so that the history of each parish should be complete in
+itself. This was a very original feature in the great scheme, and one in
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</a></span>which he took the keenest interest. Enough has been done of this
+section to warrant its issue in the form originally intended, but in the
+meantime it is proposed to select some of the most interesting of the
+districts and publish them as a series of booklets, attractive alike to
+the local inhabitant and the student of London, because much of the
+interest and the history of London lie in these street associations.</p>
+
+<p>The difficulty of finding a general title for the series was very great,
+for the title desired was one that would express concisely the undying
+charm of London&mdash;that is to say, the continuity of her past history with
+the present times. In streets and stones, in names and palaces, her
+history is written for those who can read it, and the object of the
+series is to bring forward these associations, and to make them plain.
+The solution of the difficulty was found in the words of the man who
+loved London and planned the great scheme. The work "fascinated" him,
+and it was because of these associations that it did so. These links
+between past and present in themselves largely constitute The
+Fascination of London.</p>
+
+<p style="text-align: right;">
+G. E. M.<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="HOLBORN_AND_BLOOMSBURY" id="HOLBORN_AND_BLOOMSBURY"></a>HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY</h2>
+
+
+<p>The district to be treated in this volume includes a good many
+parishes&mdash;namely, St. Giles-in-the-Fields; St. George, Bloomsbury; St.
+George the Martyr; St Andrew, Holborn; Hatton Garden, Saffron Hill;
+besides the two famous Inns of Court, Lincoln's and Gray's, and the
+remaining buildings of several Inns of Chancery, now diverted from their
+former uses. Nearly all the district is included in the new Metropolitan
+Borough of Holborn, which itself differs but little from the
+Parliamentary borough known as the Holborn Division of Finsbury. Part of
+St. Andrew's parish lies outside both of these, and is within the
+Liberties of the City. The transition from Holborn borough to the City
+will be noted in crossing the boundary. As it is proposed to mention the
+parishes in passing through them, but not to describe their exact
+limitations in the body of the book, the boundaries of the parishes are
+given concisely for reference on p. <a href="#Page_100">100</a>.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Kingsway, the new street from the Strand to Holborn, cuts through the
+selected district. It begins in a crescent, with one end near St.
+Clement's Church, and the other near Wellington Street. From the site of
+the Olympic Theatre it runs north, crossing High Holborn at Little Queen
+Street, and continuing northward through Southampton Row. A skeleton
+outline of its course is given on p. <a href="#Page_28">28</a>. This street runs roughly north
+and south throughout the district selected, and dividing it east and
+west is the great highway, which begins as New Oxford Street, becomes
+High Holborn, and continues as Holborn and Holborn Viaduct.</p>
+
+<p>The tradition that Holborn is so named after a brook&mdash;the Old
+Bourne&mdash;which rose on the hill, and flowed in an easterly direction into
+the Fleet River, cannot be sustained by any evidence or any indications
+of the bed of a former stream. Stow speaks positively as to the
+existence of this stream, which, he says, had in his time long been
+stopped up. Now, the old streams of London have left traces either in
+the lanes which once formed their bed, as Marylebone Lane and Gardener's
+Lane, Westminster, or their courses, having been accurately known, have
+been handed on from one generation to another. We may therefore dismiss
+the supposed stream of the "Old Bourne" as not proven. On the other
+hand, there have been<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span> found many springs and wells in various parts of
+Holborn, as under Furnival's Inn, which may have seemed to Stow proof
+enough of the tradition. The name of Holborn is probably derived from
+the bourne or brook in the "Hollow"&mdash;<i>i.e.</i>, the Fleet River, across
+which this great roadway ran. The way is marked in Aggas's map of the
+sixteenth century as a country road between fields, though, strangely
+enough, it is recorded that it was paved in 1417, a very ancient date.
+Malcolm in 1803 calls it "an irregular long street, narrow and
+inconvenient, at the north end of Fleet Market, but winding from Shoe
+Lane up the hill westward."</p>
+
+<p>Holborn Bars stood a little to the west of Brooke Street, and close by
+was Middle Row, an island of houses opposite the end of Gray's Inn Road,
+which formed a great impediment to the traffic. The Bars were the
+entrance to the City, and here a toll of a penny or twopence was exacted
+from non-freemen who entered the City with carts or coaches.</p>
+
+<p>The George and Blue Boar stood on the south side of Holborn, opposite
+Red Lion Street, and it is said that it was here that Charles I.'s
+letter disclosing his intention to destroy Cromwell and Ireton was
+intercepted by the latter; but this is very doubtful.</p>
+
+<p>On Holborn Hill was the Black Swan Inn,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span> which has been described as one
+of the most ancient and magnificent places for the reception of
+travellers in London, and which Dr. Stukeley, with fervent imagination,
+declared dated from the Conquest. Another ancient inn in Holborn was
+called the Rose. It was from here that the poet Taylor started to join
+Charles I. in the Isle of Wight, of which journey he says,</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"We took one coach, two coachmen, and four horses,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And merrily from London made our courses;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">We wheeled the top of the heavy hill called Holborn,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Up which hath been full many a sinful soul borne,"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>which is quoted merely to show that there is a possible rhyme to
+Holborn.</p>
+
+<p>Pennant says also there was a hospital for the poor in Holborn, and a
+cell of the House of Clugny in France, but does not indicate their
+whereabouts. Before the building of the Viaduct in 1869 (see p. <a href="#Page_54">54</a>),
+there was a steep and toilsome descent up and down the valley of the
+Fleet. This was sometimes called "the Heavy Hill," as in the verse
+already quoted, and in consequence of the melancholy processions which
+frequently passed from Newgate bound Tyburn-wards, "riding in a cart up
+the Heavy Hill" became a euphemism for being hanged. From Farringdon
+Street to Fetter Lane was Holborn Hill, and Holborn proper extended from
+Fetter Lane to Brooke Street.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In James II.'s reign Oates and Dangerfield suffered the punishment of
+being whipped at the cart's tail all the way along Holborn.</p>
+
+<p>There were Bridewell Bridge, Fleet Bridge, Fleet Lane Bridge, and
+Holborn Bridge across the Fleet River. Holborn Bridge was the most
+northerly of the four. It was a bridge of stone, serving for passengers
+from the west to the City by way of Newgate. The whole thoroughfare of
+Oxford Street and Holborn is the result of the diversion of the north
+highway into the City from the route by Westminster Marshes.</p>
+
+<p>The antiquities of Holborn and its streets north and south are not
+connected with the trade or with the municipal history of London. On the
+other hand, the associations of this group of streets are full of
+interest. If we take the south side of the street, we find ourselves
+walking past Shoe Lane, St. Andrew's Church, Thavies' Inn, Fetter Lane,
+Staple Inn, Barnard's Inn, Chancery Lane, Great and Little Turnstiles,
+Little Queen Street, Drury Lane, and St. Giles's. On the north side we
+pass Field Lane, Ely Place, Hatton Garden, Brooke Street, Furnival's
+Inn, Gray's Inn, Red Lion Street, and Tottenham Court Road. All these
+will be found described in detail further on. Of eminent residents in
+Holborn itself, Cunningham mentions Gerarde, the author of the "Herbal";
+Sir Kenelm Digby; Milton, who<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> lived for a time in one of the houses on
+the south side, looking upon Lincoln's Inn Fields; and Dr. Johnson, who
+lived at the sign of the Golden Anchor, Holborn Bars. There were also
+the Bishops of Ely, Sir Christopher Hatton, Francis Bacon, Sir Thomas
+More, Charles Dickens, Fulke Greville, Thomas Chatterton, Lord Russell,
+Dr. Sacheverell, and many others.</p>
+
+<p>It is necessary now, however, to leave off generalization, and to begin
+with a detailed account of the parishes which fall within the district;
+of these, St. Giles-in-the-Fields is the most interesting.</p>
+
+
+<h3>ST. GILES-IN-THE-FIELDS.</h3>
+
+<p>The name of the parish is derived from the hospital which stood on the
+site of the present parish church, and was dedicated to the Greek saint
+St. Giles. It was at first known as St. Giles of the Lepers, but when
+the hospital was demolished became St. Giles-in-the-Fields.</p>
+
+<p>In a plan dated 1600 St. Giles's is shown to consist largely of open
+fields. The buildings, which before the dissolution had belonged to the
+hospital, form a group about the site of the church. A few more
+buildings run along the north side of the present Broad Street. There
+are one or two at the north end of Drury Lane, and Drury House<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> is at
+the south end. Southampton House, in the fields to the north, is marked,
+but the parish is otherwise open ground. In spite of many edicts to
+restrain the increase of houses, early in the reign of James I. the
+meadows began to be built upon, and, though a little checked during the
+Commonwealth, after the Restoration the building proceeded rapidly,
+stimulated by the new square at Lincoln's Inn Fields then being carried
+out by Inigo Jones. To St. Giles's may be attributed the distinction of
+having originated the Great Plague, which broke out in an alley at the
+north end of Drury Lane. Several times before this there had been
+smaller outbreaks, which had resulted in the building of a pest-house.
+Even after this check the parish continued to increase rapidly, and by
+the early part of the last century was a byword for all that was squalid
+and filthy. Its rookeries and slums are thus described in a newspaper
+cutting of 1845: "All around are poverty and wretchedness; the streets
+and alleys are rank with the filth of half a century; the windows are
+half of them broken, or patched with rags and paper, and when whole are
+begrimed with dirt and smoke; little brokers' shops abound, filled with
+lumber, the odour of which taints even that tainted atmosphere; the
+pavement and carriage-way swarm with pigs, poultry, and ragged
+children.... But in the space called the Dials itself the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> scene is far
+different. There at least rise splendid buildings with stuccoed fronts
+and richly-ornamented balustrades.... These are the gin-palaces."
+Naturally, among so much poverty gin-palaces and public-houses abounded.
+It is curious to note how many of Hogarth's pictures of misery and vice
+were drawn from St. Giles's. "Noon" has St. Giles's Church in the
+background, while his "Gin Lane" shows the neighbouring church of St.
+George, Bloomsbury; the scene of his "Harlot's Progress" is Drury Lane,
+and the idle apprentice is caught when wanted for murder in a cellar in
+St. Giles's.</p>
+
+<p>The gallows were in this parish from about 1413 until they were removed
+to Tyburn, and then the terrible Tyburn procession passed through St.
+Giles's, and halted at the great gate of the hospital, and later at the
+public-house called The Bowl, described more fully hereafter. From very
+early times St. Giles's was notorious for its taverns. The Croche Hose
+(Crossed Stockings), another tavern, was situated at the corner of the
+marshlands, and in Edward I.'s reign belonged to the cook of the
+hospital; the crossed stockings, red and white, were adopted as the sign
+of the hosiers. Besides these, there were numerous other taverns dating
+from many years back, including the Swan on the Hop, Holborn; White
+Hart, north-east of Drury Lane; the Rose, already mentioned. In the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span>
+parish also were various houses of entertainment, of which the most
+notorious was the Hare and Hounds, formerly Beggar in the Bush, which
+was kept by one Joe Banks in 1844, and was the resort of all classes.
+This was in Buckridge Street, over which New Oxford Street now runs. In
+the last sixty years the face of the parish has been greatly changed.
+The first demolition of a rookery of vice and squalor took place in
+1840, when New Oxford Street was driven through Slumland. Dyott (once
+George) Street, Church Lane, Buckridge and Bainbridge, Charlotte and
+Plumtree, were among the most notorious streets thus wholly or partially
+removed.</p>
+
+<p>In 1844 many wretched houses were demolished, and in 1855 Shaftesbury
+Avenue drove another wedge into the slums to let in light and air. There
+are poor and wretched courts in St. Giles's yet, but civilization is
+making its softening influence felt even here, and though cases of
+Hooliganism in broad daylight still occur, they are less and less
+frequent.</p>
+
+<p>So much for a brief history of the parish. Its soil was from very early
+times damp and marshy. To the south of the hospital was a stretch of
+ground called Marshlands, probably at one time a pond. Great ditches and
+fosses cut up the ground. The most important of these was Blemund's
+Ditch, which divided the parish from that of Bloomsbury.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> This is
+supposed to have been an ancient line of fortification. Besides this, a
+ditch traversed the marshlands above mentioned, another encompassed the
+croft lying by the north gate of the hospital, and there were several
+others of less importance.</p>
+
+<p>The Hospital of St. Giles was the earliest foundation of its kind in
+London, if we except St. James's Hospital. Stow sums it up thus: "St.
+Giles-in-the-Fields was an hospital for leprous people out of the City
+of London and shire of Middlesex, founded by Matilde the Queen, wife to
+Henry I., and suppressed by King Henry VIII." The date of foundation is
+given by Leland and Malcolm as 1101, though Stow and others give 1117,
+which was the year before the foundress died. Before this time this part
+of London had apparently been included in the great estate of Rugmere,
+which belonged to St. Paul's.</p>
+
+<p>Matilda gave the ground, and endowed the hospital with the magnificent
+sum of &pound;3 per annum! Her foundation provided for forty lepers, one
+chaplain, one clerk, and one servant. Henry II. confirmed all privileges
+and gifts which had accrued to the hospital, and added to them himself.
+Parton says, "His liberality ranks him as a second founder." During
+succeeding reigns the hospital grew in wealth and importance. In Henry
+III.'s reign Pope Alexander issued a confirmatory Bull, but the charity
+had become a refuge<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> for decayed hangers-on at Court who were not
+lepers. This abuse was prohibited by the King's decree. In Edward III.'s
+reign the first downward step was taken, for he made the hospital a cell
+to Burton St. Lazar. The brethren apparently rebelled, refusing to admit
+the visitation of the Archbishop of Canterbury, and destroying many
+valuable documents and records belonging to the hospital. Two centuries
+later King Henry VIII. desired the lands and possessions of St. Giles's,
+and with him to desire was to acquire.</p>
+
+<p>The hospital was thus shorn of the greater part of its wealth, retaining
+only the church (not the manor) at Feltham (one of its earliest gifts),
+the hospital estates at Edmonton, in the City of London, and in the
+various parishes in the suburbs; and in St. Giles's parish the actual
+ground it stood on, the Pittance Croft, and a few minor places. But even
+this remnant came into the possession of the rapacious King two years
+later, at the dissolution of the monasteries, when Burton St. Lazar
+itself fell into the tyrant's hands. Henry held these for six years,
+then granted both to John Dudley, Viscount Lisle, Lord High Admiral.
+From the time of the dissolution the hospital became a manor.</p>
+
+<p>In the earliest charters the head of the hospital is styled Chaplain,
+but not Master. The first Master mentioned is in 1212, and after this
+the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> title was regularly used. The government was vested in the Master
+or Warden and other officers, together with a certain number of sound
+brethren and sisters&mdash;and in certain cases lepers themselves&mdash;who formed
+a chapter. "They assembled in chapter, had a common seal, held courts as
+lords of the manor."<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> There were also guardians or custodians, who did
+not reside in the precincts of the hospital, and these seem to have been
+chosen from the most eminent citizens; they formed no part of the
+original scheme.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> "Some Account of the Hospital and Parish of St.
+Giles-in-the-Fields," 1822, by John Parton.</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
+<img src="images/image005.jpg" width="250" height="278" alt="SEAL OF ST. GILES&#39;S HOSPITAL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SEAL OF ST. GILES&#39;S HOSPITAL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The sisters appear to have been nurses, for there is no mention made of
+any leprous sister. The chapel of the hospital appears from King<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> Henry
+II.'s charter to have been built on the site of some older parochial
+church. The Bull of Pope Alexander mentions that the hospital wall
+enclosed eight acres. Within this triangular space, which is at present
+roughly bounded by the High Street, Charing Cross Road, and Shaftesbury
+Avenue, was one central building or mansion for the lepers, several
+subordinate buildings, the chapel, and the gate-house. Whether the
+number of lepers was reduced when the hospital possessions were
+curtailed we are not told. After the hospital buildings fell into the
+hands of Lord Dudley they underwent many changes. The principal building
+he converted into a mansion for his own use; this was the manor-house.
+It stood between the present Denmark Street and Lloyd's Court, and its
+site is occupied by a manufactory. After two years Lord Dudley obtained
+from the King license to transfer all his newly-gained estates to Sir
+Wymonde Carew, but there seems reason to suppose that Lord Dudley
+remained in possession of the manor-house until his attainder in the
+reign of Queen Mary, because the manor then reverted to the Crown, and
+was regranted. Clinch gets out of this difficulty by supposing Lord
+Dudley to have parted with his estates and retained the manor, but in
+the deed of license for exchange all his "mansion place and capital
+house, late the house of the dissolved<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> hospital of St. Giles in the
+Fields," is especially mentioned. It is possible that Sir Wymonde leased
+it again to the Dudley family.</p>
+
+<p>Among the many subsequent holders of the manor we find the name of Sir
+Walter Cope, who bought the Manor of Kensington in 1612, and through
+whose only child, Isabel, it passed by marriage to Sir Henry Rich,
+created Earl of Holland. The Manor of St. Giles was in the possession of
+the Crown again in Charles II.'s reign, when Alice Leigh, created by him
+Duchess of Dudley, lived in the manor-house. This Duchess made many
+gifts to the church, among which was a rectory-house.</p>
+
+<p>The Church of St. Giles at present standing is certainly the third, if
+not the fourth, which has been upon the same site. As mentioned above,
+there is reason to believe from Henry II.'s charter that a sacred
+building of some sort stood here before the leper chapel. The chapel had
+a chapter-house attached, and seems to have been a well-cared-for
+building. There were several chantry chapels and a high altar dedicated
+to St. Giles. St. Giles's in the earlier charters is spoken of as a
+village, not a parish, but there is little doubt that after the
+establishment of the hospital its chapel was used as a parish church by
+the villagers. There was probably a wall screening off the lepers. The
+first church of which any<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> illustration is preserved has a curious
+tower, capped by a round dome. The view of this church, dated 1560, is
+taken after the dissolution of the hospital, when it had become entirely
+parochial. In 1617 the quaint old tower was taken down, and replaced by
+another, but only six years after the whole church was rebuilt. A view
+of this in 1718 gives a very long battlemented body in two stories, with
+a square tower surmounted by an open belfry and vane. It possessed
+remarkably fine stained-glass windows and a handsome screen presented by
+the Duchess of Dudley.</p>
+
+<p>This second church did not last very long, for in Queen Anne's reign the
+parishioners petitioned that it should be rebuilt as one of the fifty
+new churches, being then in a state of decay. The present church, which
+is very solid, and has dignity of outline, was the work of Flitcroft,
+and was opened April 14, 1734. The steeple is 160 feet high, with a
+rustic pedestal, a Doric story, an octagonal tower, and spire. The
+basement is of rusticated Portland stone, of which the church is built,
+and quoins of the same material decorate the windows and angles within.
+It follows the lines of the period, with hardly any chancel, wide
+galleries on three sides standing on piers, from which columns rise to
+the elliptical ceiling. The part of the roof over the galleries<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> is
+bayed at right angles to the curve of the central part. Monuments hang
+on the walls and columns, and occupy every available space. By far the
+most striking of these is the full-length figure of a woman in repose
+which is set on a broad window-seat. This is the monument of Lady
+Frances Kniveton, daughter of Alice Leigh, Duchess of Dudley. The
+daughter's tomb remains a memorial of her mother's benefactions to the
+parish. The monument of Andrew Marvell, a plain black marble slab, is on
+the north wall. Marvell was buried in the church "under the pews in the
+south side," but the present monument was not erected until 1764,
+eighty-six years after his death, owing to the opposition of the
+incumbent of the church. The inscription on it slightly varies from that
+intended for the original monument. Besides a handsome brass cross on
+the chancel floor to the Rector, Canon Nisbett, a tomb in form of a
+Roman altar, designed by Inigo Jones, and commemorating George Chapman,
+the translator of Homer, and a touching monument in the lobby to "John
+Belayse," put up by his two daughters, there is nothing further worth
+seeing.</p>
+
+<p>The graveyard which surrounds the church is supposed to have been the
+ancient interment-ground of the hospital. The first mention of it in the
+parish books is in 1628, when three cottages were pulled down to
+increase its size. It was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> enlarged again in 1666. Part of the old
+hospital wall enclosing it remained until 1630, when it fell down, and
+after the lapse of some time a new wall was built. In St. Giles's
+Churchyard were buried Lord Herbert of Cherbury, Shirley, Roger
+L'Estrange, Andrew Marvell, and Richard Pendrell, who assisted in
+Charles II.'s escape; his altar-tomb is easily seen near the east end of
+the church. By 1718 the graveyard had risen 8 feet, so that the church
+stood in a pit or well. The further burial-ground at St. Pancras was
+taken in 1805, and after that burials at St. Giles's were not very
+frequent. Pennant was one of the first to draw attention to the
+disgraceful overcrowding of the old graveyard. There seem to have been
+several gates into the churchyard with the right of private entry, one
+of which was used by the Duchess of Dudley. The most remarkable gate,
+however, was at the principal entrance to the churchyard, and was known
+as the Resurrection Gate, from an alto-relievo of the Last Day. This was
+erected about 1687, and was of red and brown brick. The composition of
+the relievo is said to have been borrowed, with alterations, from
+Michael Angelo's work on the same subject. In 1765 the north wall of the
+churchyard was taken down, and replaced by the present railing and
+coping. In 1800 the gate was removed, and replaced by the present
+Tuscan<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> gate, in which the sculpture has been refixed. This stood at
+first on the site of the old one on the north of the churchyard, but was
+removed to the west side, where it at present stands in an unnoticeable
+and obscure position. It was probably placed there in the idea that the
+new road, Charing Cross Road, would run past.</p>
+
+<p>Denmark Street "fronts St. Giles Church and falls into Hog Lane, a fair
+broad street, with good houses well inhabited by gentry" (Strype).</p>
+
+<p>This description is no longer applicable. Denmark Place was once Dudley
+Court, and the house here with a garden was given by the Duchess of
+Dudley as a rectory for the parish. The Court or Row was built on the
+site of the house previous to 1722.</p>
+
+<p>Broad Street is one of the most ancient streets in the parish, and there
+were a few houses standing on the north side when the rest of the
+district was open ground. It was the main route westward for many
+centuries, until New Oxford Street was made.</p>
+
+<p>The procession from Newgate to Tyburn used to pass along Broad Street,
+and halt at the great gate of the hospital, in order that the condemned
+man might take his last draught of ale on earth. An enterprising
+publican set up a tavern near here in 1623, and called it the Bowl. He
+provided the ale free, and no doubt made much<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> profit by the patronage
+he received thereby. The exact site of the tavern was in Bowl Yard,
+which ran into Broad Street near where Endell Street now is. Among
+Cruikshank's well-known drawings is a series illustrating Jack
+Sheppard's progress to the gallows.</p>
+
+<p>The parish almshouses were built in the wide part of Broad Street on
+ground granted by Lord Southampton, but were removed as an impediment to
+traffic in 1783 to the Coal Yard, near the north of Drury Lane. A row of
+little alleys&mdash;Salutation, Lamb's, Crown, and Cock&mdash;formerly extended
+southward over the present workhouse site. There are still one or two
+small entries both north and south. The immense yard of a well-known
+brewery fills up a large part of the south side, and a large iron and
+hardware manufactory on the north gives a certain manufacturing aspect
+to the street. The Holborn Municipal Baths are in a fine new building on
+the south side.</p>
+
+<p>About High Street, which joins Broad Street at its west end, there is
+surely less to say than of any other High Street in London. In 1413 the
+gallows were set up at the corner where it meets Tottenham Court Road.
+But even previously to this executions had taken place at Tyburn, and
+soon Tyburn became the recognised place of execution. Sir John
+Oldcastle, Lord Cobham, is the most notable name among the victims who<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span>
+suffered at St. Giles. He was hung in chains and roasted to death over a
+slow fire at this spot as a Lollard.</p>
+
+<p>After they had been removed from the end of Broad Street, to make way
+for the almshouses, the parish pound and cage stood on the site of the
+gallows until 1765. There was here also a large circular stone, where
+the charity boys were whipped to make them remember the parish bounds.</p>
+
+<p>The space to the north of the High and Broad Streets was previously a
+notorious rookery. Dyott Street, which still exists, though cut in half,
+had a most unenviable reputation. The Maidenhead Inn, which stood at the
+south-east corner of this, was a favourite resort for mealmen and
+country waggoners. There was in this street also a tavern called the
+Turk's Head, where Haggart Hoggarty planned the murder of Mr. Steele on
+Hounslow Heath in 1802. Walford mentions also Rat's Castle, a rendezvous
+for all the riff-raff of the neighbourhood. Dyott Street was named after
+an influential parishioner of Charles II.'s time, who had a house here.
+It was later called George Street, but has reverted to the original
+name.</p>
+
+<p>South of Great Russell Street there were formerly Bannister's Alley and
+Eagle and Child Yard running northwards. From the former of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> these
+continued Church Lane, to which Maynard Lane ran parallel. Bainbridge,
+Buckridge, and Church Streets ran east and westward. Of these Bainbridge
+remains, a long, narrow alley bounded by the brewery wall. Mayhew says
+that here "were found some of the most intricate and dangerous places in
+this low locality."</p>
+
+<p>The part of the parish lying to the north, including Bedford Square,
+must be for the present left (see p. <a href="#Page_98">98</a>), while we turn southwards.</p>
+
+<p>New Compton Street is within the former precincts of the hospital. When
+first made it was called Stiddolph Street, after Sir Richard Stiddolph,
+and the later name was taken from that of Sir Frances Compton. Strype
+says, "All this part was very meanly built ... and greatly inhabited by
+French, and of the poorer sort," a character it retains to this day.</p>
+
+<p>Shaftesbury Avenue, opened in 1885, has obliterated Monmouth Street,
+named after the Duke of Monmouth, whose house was in Soho Square (see
+<i>The Strand</i>, this series). Monmouth Street was notorious for its
+old-clothes shops, and is the subject of one of the "Sketches by Boz."
+Further back still it was called Le Lane, and is under that name
+mentioned among the hospital possessions.</p>
+
+<p>The north end of Shaftesbury Avenue is in the adjoining parish of St.
+George's, Bloomsbury,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> but must for sequence' sake be described here. A
+French Protestant chapel, consecrated 1845, which is the lineal
+descendant of the French Church of the Savoy, stands on the west side.
+Near at hand is a French girls' school. Further north is a Baptist
+chapel, with two noticeable pointed towers and a central wheel window.
+Bedford Chapel formerly stood on the north side of this. In the lower
+half of the Avenue there are several buildings of interest. The first of
+these, on the east side, is for the medical and surgical relief of all
+foreigners who speak French. Below this is a chapel belonging to the
+Baptists, and further southward a working lads' home, established in
+1843, for homeless lads at work in London. In connection with it are
+various homes in the country, both for boys and girls, and two training
+ships, the <i>Arethusa</i> and <i>Chichester</i>.</p>
+
+<p>All the ground to the south of Shaftesbury Avenue was anciently, if not
+actually a pond, at all events very marshy ground, and was called
+Meershelands, or Marshlands. It was subsequently known as Cock and Pye
+Fields, from the Cock and Pye public-house, which is supposed to have
+been situated at the spot where Little St. Andrew Street, West Street,
+and Castle Street now meet. The date at which this name first appeared
+is uncertain; it is met with in the parish books after 1666. In the
+reign of William III. a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> Mr. Neale took the ground, and transformed the
+great ditch which crossed it into a sewer, preparatory to the building
+of Seven Dials. The name of this notorious place has been connected with
+degradation and misery, but at first it was considered rather an
+architectural wonder. Evelyn, in his diary, October 5, 1694, says: "I
+went to see the building beginning near St. Giles, where seven streets
+make a star from a Doric pillar placed in the middle of a circular area,
+said to be built by Mr. Neale." Gay also refers to the central column in
+his "Trivia." The column had really only six dial faces, two streets
+converging toward one. In the open space on which it stood was a
+pillory, and the culprits who stood here were often most brutally
+stoned. One John Waller, charged with perjury, was killed in this manner
+in 1732.</p>
+
+<p>In 1773 the column was taken down in a search for imaginary treasure. It
+was set up again in 1822 on Weybridge Green as a memorial to the Duchess
+of York, who died 1820. The dial was not replaced, and was used as a
+stepping-stone at the Ship Inn at Weybridge; it still lies on one side
+of the Green. The streets of Seven Dials attained a very unenviable
+reputation, and were the haunt of all that was vicious and bad. Terrible
+accounts of the overcrowding and consequent immorality come down to us
+from the newspaper<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> echoes of the earlier part of the nineteenth
+century. The opening up of the new thoroughfares of New Oxford Street,
+Shaftesbury Avenue, and Charing Cross Road, have done much, but the
+neighbourhood is still a slum. The seven streets remain in their
+starlike shape, by name Great and Little White Lion Street, Great and
+Little St. Andrew Street, Great and Little Earl Street, and Queen
+Street.</p>
+
+<p>Short's Gardens was in 1623 really a garden, and a little later than
+that date was acquired by a man named Dudley Short.</p>
+
+<p>Betterton Street was until comparatively recently called Brownlow, from
+Sir John Brownlow of Belton, who had a house here in Charles II.'s time.
+The street is now, to use a favourite expression of Stow's, "better
+built than inhabited," for the row of brick houses of no very squalid
+type are inhabited by the very poor.</p>
+
+<p>Endell Street was built in 1844, at the time of the erection of the
+workhouse. In it are the National Schools, a Protestant Swiss chapel,
+and an entrance to the public baths and wash-houses, to the south of
+which rise the towers of the workhouse. Christ Church is hemmed in by
+the workhouse, having an outlet only on the street. The church was
+consecrated in 1845. In Short's Gardens is the Lying-in Hospital, the
+oldest institution of the kind in England. On the west<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> side, between
+Castle Street and Short's Gardens, the remains of an ancient bath were
+discovered at what was once No. 3, Belton Street, now 23 and 25, Endell
+Street. Tradition wildly asserts that this was used by Queen Anne.
+Fragments of it still remain in the room used for iron lumber, for the
+premises are in the occupation of an iron merchant, but the water has
+long since ceased to flow.</p>
+
+<p>Drury Lane has been in great part described in <i>The Strand</i>, which see,
+p. 97. The Coal Yard at the north-east end, where Nell Gwynne was born,
+is now Goldsmith Street. Pit Place, on the west of Great Wild Street,
+derives its name from the cockpit or theatre, the original of the Drury
+Lane Theatre, which stood here. The cockpit was built previous to 1617,
+for in that year an incensed mob destroyed it, and tore all the dresses.
+It was afterwards known as the Ph&oelig;nix Theatre. At one time it seems
+to have been used as a school, though this may very well have been at
+the same time as it fulfilled its legitimate functions. Betterton and
+Kynaston both made their first public appearance here. The actual date
+of the theatre's demolition is not known. Parton judges it to have been
+at the time of the building of Wild, then Weld, Street. Its performances
+are described, 1642, as having degenerated into an inferior kind, and
+having been attended by inferior audiences.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>At the north-east end of Drury Lane is the site of the ancient hostelry,
+the White Hart. Here also was a stone cross, known as Aldewych Cross,
+for the lane was anciently the Via de Aldewych, and is one of the oldest
+roads in the parish; Saxon Ald&nbsp;=&nbsp;old, and Wych&nbsp;=&nbsp;a village, a name to be
+preserved in the new Crescent. It is difficult to understand, looking
+down Drury Lane to-day from Holborn, that this most mean and unlovely
+street was once a place of aristocratic resort&mdash;of gardens, great
+houses, and orchards. Here was Craven House, here was Clare House; here
+lived the Earl of Stirling, the Marquis of Argyll, and the Earl of
+Anglesey. Here lived for a time Nell Gwynne. Pepys says:</p>
+
+<p>"Saw pretty Nelly standing at her lodgings door in Drury Lane in her
+smock-sleeves and bodice, looking upon one. She seemed a mighty pretty
+creature."</p>
+
+<p>The Lane fell into disrepute early in the eighteenth century. The
+"saints of Drury Lane," the "drabs of Drury Lane," the starving poets of
+Drury Lane, are freely ridiculed by the poets of that time.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"'Nine years!' cries he, who high in Drury Lane,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Lull'd by soft zephyrs through the broken pane,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Rhymes ere he wakes, and prints before term ends,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Obliged by hunger and request of friends."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The boundary of St. Giles's parish runs down<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> Drury Lane between Long
+Acre and Great Queen Street. Of the last of these Strype says: "It is a
+street graced with a goodly row of large uniform houses on the south
+side, but on the north side is indifferent." The street was begun in the
+early years of the seventeenth century, but the building spread over a
+long time, so that we find the "goodly row of houses" on the south side
+to have been built by Webb, a pupil of Inigo Jones, about 1646. A number
+of celebrated people lived in Great Queen Street. The first Lord Herbert
+of Cherbury had a house on the south side at the corner of Great Wild
+Street; here he died in 1648. Sir Thomas Fairfax, the Parliamentary
+General, lived here; also Sir Heneage Finch, created Earl of Nottingham;
+Sir Godfrey Kneller, when he moved from Covent Garden; Thomas Worlidge,
+the portrait-painter, and afterwards, in the same house, Hoole, the
+translator of Dante and Ariosto; Sir Robert Strange, the engraver; John
+Opie, the artist; Wolcott, better known as Peter Pindar, who was buried
+at St. Paul's, Covent Garden. Sheridan is also said to have lived here,
+and it would be conveniently near Drury Lane Theatre, which was under
+his management from 1776.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 380px;"><a name="KINGSWAY" id="KINGSWAY"></a>
+<a href="images/image006.jpg"><img src="images/thumb_image006.jpg" width="380" height="600" alt="KINGSWAY." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">KINGSWAY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>On the south side of the street are the Freemasons' Hall, built
+originally in 1775, and the Freemasons' Tavern, erected subsequently.
+Both<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> have been rebuilt, and the hall, having been recently repainted,
+looks at the time of writing startlingly new. Near it are two of the
+original old houses, all that are left with the pilasters and carved
+capitals which are so sure a sign of Inigo Jones's influence.</p>
+
+<p>On the north side of the street is the Novelty Theatre.</p>
+
+<p>Great and Little Wild Streets are called respectively Old and New Weld
+Streets by Strype. Weld House stood on the site of the present Wild
+Court, and was during the reign of James II. occupied by the Spanish
+Embassy. In Great Wild Street Benjamin Franklin worked as a journeyman
+printer.</p>
+
+<p>Kemble and Sardinia were formerly Prince's and Duke's Streets. The
+latter contains some very old houses, and a chapel used by the Roman
+Catholics. This is said to be the oldest foundation now in the hands of
+the Roman Catholics in London. It was built in 1648, and was the object
+of virulent attack during the Gordon Riots; the exterior is singularly
+plain. Sardinia Street communicates with Lincoln's Inn Fields by a heavy
+and quaint archway.</p>
+
+<p>Even in Strype's time Little Queen Street was "a place pestered with
+coaches," a reputation which, curiously enough, it still retains, the
+heavy traffic of the King's Cross omnibuses passing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> through it. Trinity
+Church is in a late decorative style, with ornamental pinnacles, flying
+buttresses, and two deeply-recessed porches. Within it is a very plain,
+roomlike structure. The church is on the site of a house in which lived
+the Lambs, and where Mary Lamb in a fit of insanity murdered her mother.
+The Holborn Restaurant forms part of the side of this street; this is a
+very gorgeous building, and within is a very palace of modern luxury. It
+stands on the site formerly occupied by the Holborn Casino or Dancing
+Saloon.</p>
+
+<p>Little Queen Street will be wiped out by the broad new thoroughfare from
+the Strand to Holborn to be called Kingsway (see <a href="#KINGSWAY">plan</a>).</p>
+
+<p>Gate Street was formerly Little Princes Street. The present name is
+derived from the gate or carriage-entrance to Lincoln's Inn Fields.</p>
+
+<p>In Strype's map half of Whetstone Park is called by its present title,
+and the western half is Phillips Rents. He mentions it as "once famous
+for its infamous and vicious inhabitants."</p>
+
+<p>Great and Little Turnstile were so named from the turning stiles which
+in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries stood at their north ends to
+prevent the cattle straying from Lincoln's Inn Fields. The Holborn
+Music-hall in Little Turnstile was originally a Nonconformist chapel.
+After<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> 1840 it served as a hall, lectures, etc., being given by
+free-thinkers, and in 1857 was adapted to its present purpose.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Lincoln's Inn Fields.</span>&mdash;All the ground on which the present square is
+built formed part of Fickett's Field, which was anciently the
+jousting-place of the Knights Templars. A curious petition of the reign
+of Edward III. shows us that then it was a favourite recreation-ground
+or promenade for clerks, apprentices, students, as well as the citizens.
+In this petition a complaint is made that one Roger Leget had laid
+caltrappes or engines of iron in a trench, to the danger of those who
+walked in the fields. Inigo Jones was entrusted by King James I. to form
+a square of houses which should be worthy of so fine a situation. Before
+this time it appears that there had been one or two irregular buildings.
+Inigo Jones conceived the curious idea of giving his square the exact
+size of the Great Pyramid of Egypt, and it is accordingly the largest
+square in London. But when he had completed the west side only, the
+unsettled state of the country hindered further progress, and for many
+years the land lay waste, and was unenclosed save by wooden posts and
+rails; during this period it was the daily and nightly haunt of all the
+beggars, rogues, pickpockets, wrestlers, and vile vagrants in London.
+Gay thus speaks of it:<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Where Lincoln's Inn, wide space, is rail'd around,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Cross not with venturous step; there oft is found<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The lurking thief, who, while the daylight shone,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Made the walls echo with his begging tone:<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">That crutch, which late compassion moved, shall wound<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Thy bleeding head, and fell thee to the ground.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Though thou art tempted by the linkman's call,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Yet trust him not along the lonely wall;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">In the midway he'll quench the flaming brand,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And share the booty with the pilfering band.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Still keep the public streets where oily rays,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Shot from the crystal lamp, o'erspread the ways."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>At this time three fields are mentioned as being included in the
+square&mdash;namely, Purse Field, Fickett's Field, and Cap Field. In 1657 the
+inhabitants made an agreement with Lincoln's Inn, to whom some of the
+rights of the Templars seem to have descended (Parton), as to the
+completion of the square. But even after the two further sides had been
+added, the centre seems to have been left in a disorderly and pestilent
+state, and it was not until 1735 that the place was properly laid out.
+In Strype's map of 1720 the sides are marked Newman's Row North, the
+Arch Row West, Portugal Row South, and the wall of Lincoln's Inn
+completes the fourth side. Strype speaks of the first two as being of
+large houses, generally taken by the nobility and gentry. The historical
+event of prominence connected with the centre of the square is the
+execution of William, Lord Russell, which took place here in 1683, on
+accusation of high treason and com<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span>plicity in the Rye House Plot. He was
+beheaded in Lincoln's Inn Fields, lest the mob should rise and rescue
+him were he conveyed to the more public Tower Hill. In spite of his
+defiance of lawful authority, Russell's name has always been regarded as
+that of a patriot. He and Algernon Sydney are remembered as
+single-minded and high-souled men.</p>
+
+<p>Many other executions were held in those fields, notably those of
+Babington and his accomplices in 1586, fourteen in all. They were
+"hanged, bowelled, and quartered, on a stage or scaffold of timber
+strongly made for that purpose, even in the place where they used to
+meet and conferre of their traitorous purposes." At present the centre
+of the square forms a charming garden, open free to the public, with
+fine plane-trees shading grass plots not too severely trimmed, and
+flocks of opal-hued pigeons add a touch of bird-life. It is true the
+grass is railed in, but the railings are not obtrusive, and do not
+interfere with the pleasure of those who sit on the seats or walk under
+the trees. Here is assuredly one of the places where we can most feel
+the fascination of London as we contrast the present with the past.</p>
+
+<p>On the north side is the Inns of Court Hotel, a massive pile faced with
+stone, and with a portico of polished granite columns. This is on the
+site<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> of an ancient hostelry in Holborn, the George and Blue Boar, a
+famous coaching inn (see p. <a href="#Page_3">3</a>).</p>
+
+<p>The Soane Museum is further westward, and is differentiated from two
+similarly built neighbours by a slightly projecting frontage. It was the
+former residence of Sir John Soane, who left his collection to the
+nation. There are many valuable pictures, as well as curious and
+interesting objects. The museum is open free to the public on Tuesday,
+Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday.</p>
+
+<p>On the west side of the square, near Queen Street, stands a very solid
+mansion, known first as Powis, then as Newcastle House. The footway in
+Great Queen Street runs under an arcade on the north side of this house,
+which was built by the first Marquis of Powis, created Duke of Powis by
+James II., whom he followed into exile, and bought in 1705 by Holles,
+Duke of Newcastle, whose nephew, who led the Pelham Administration under
+George II., inherited it. Further south on the same side is Lindsey
+House, a large building with pilasters; this was built by Robert Bertie,
+Earl of Lindsey, and was later called Ancaster House. It was described
+by Hatton as a handsome building, with six spacious brick piers before
+it, surmounted by vases and with ironwork between. Only two of these
+vases remain. The fleurs-de-lis on the house over the Sardinia Street<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span>
+entry were put up in compliment to Queen Henrietta Maria, who was the
+daughter of Henry IV. of France. The third great house on this side was
+Portsmouth House, over Portsmouth Place.</p>
+
+<p>The remainder of the houses have the same general character of stuccoed
+and pilastered uniformity, broken here and there by uncovered brick
+surfaces or frontages of stone. They are almost uninterruptedly occupied
+by solicitors. This is the oldest side of the square, being that built
+by Inigo Jones.</p>
+
+<p>At the south corner of the square there is a quaint red-brick,
+gable-ended house, with a bit of rusticated woodwork. This is all part
+of the same block as the Old Curiosity Shop, supposed to be that
+described by Dickens.</p>
+
+<p>On the south side rises the Royal College of Surgeons. The central part
+is carried up a story and an entresol higher than the wings, and, like
+the wings, is capped by a balustrade. The legend, "&AElig;des Collegii
+Chirurgorum Anglici&mdash;Diplomate Regio Corporate <span class="smcap lowercase">A.D. MDCCC</span>," runs across
+the frontage. A massive colonnade of six Ionic columns gives solidity to
+the basement. The museum of this college has absorbed the site of the
+old Duke's Theatre. Its nucleus was John Hunter's collection, purchased
+by the college, and first opened in 1813.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>This side of the square is outside our present district. (See <i>The
+Strand</i>, in the same series.)</p>
+
+<p>The origin of the Company of Barber-Surgeons is very ancient, for the
+two guilds, Barbers and Surgeons, were incorporated in 1540; but in 1745
+they separated, and the Surgeons continued as a body alone. However,
+they came to grief in 1790, and the charter establishing the Royal
+College of Surgeons of London was granted in 1800; in 1845 the title was
+changed to that of the Royal College of Surgeons of England. The present
+building, however, dates only from 1835, and is the work of Sir C.
+Barry. It has since been enlarged and altered.</p>
+
+<p>With this the ancient parish of St. Giles-in-the-Fields ends, but our
+district includes Lincoln's Inn, and beyond it the parish of St. Andrew,
+Holborn, into which we pass.</p>
+
+
+<h3>LINCOLN'S INN.<br />
+
+<span class="smcap" style="font-size: 75%;">By W. J. Loftie.</span></h3>
+
+<p>The old brick gateway in Chancery Lane is familiar to most Londoners. It
+ranks with the stone gateway of the Hospitallers in Clerkenwell, with
+the tower of St. James's Palace, and with the gate of Lambeth Palace, as
+one of the three or four relics of the Gothic style left in London. Even
+Gothic churches are scarce, while specimens<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> of the domestic style are
+still scarcer. It need hardly be said that this tower has been
+constantly threatened, by "restorers" on the one hand, as well as by
+open destroyers on the other. It was built while Cardinal Wolsey was
+Chancellor, and was still new when Sir Thomas More sat in the hall as
+his successor. The windows have been altered, and the groining of the
+archway has been changed for a flat roof. It is said that the bricks of
+which the gate is built were made in the Coney Garth, which much later
+remained an open field, but is now New Square. A pillar, said to have
+been designed by Inigo Jones, stood in New Square, or, as it was called
+from a lessee at the beginning of the eighteenth century, Searle's
+Court. This ground and the site of the Law Courts formed part of
+Fickett's Field, the tilting-place of the Templars. Over the arch of the
+gate are carved three shields of arms. In the centre are the
+fleurs-de-lis and lions of Henry VIII., crowned within the garter. On
+the north side are the arms of Sir Thomas Lovell, who was a bencher of
+the Inn, and who rebuilt the gate in 1518. At the other side is the
+shield of Lacy. It was Henry Lacy, third Earl of Lincoln, who died in
+1311, by whom the lawyers are said to have been first established here.
+It is certain that soon after his death the house and gardens, which
+before his time had belonged in part to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> Blackfriars, and which he
+had obtained on their removal to the corner of the City since called
+after them, were in the occupation of a society of students of the law.
+An adjoining house and grounds belonged to the Bishops of Chichester:
+Bishop's Court and Chichester's Rents are still local names. Richard
+Sampson, Bishop in 1537, made over the estate to Suliard, a bencher of
+the Inn, and his son in 1580 granted it to the lawyers. The gate is at
+76, Chancery Lane, formerly New Street, and later Chancellor's Lane. In
+Old Square, the first court we enter, are situated the ancient hall and
+the chapel, the south side being occupied by chambers, some of them
+ancient. The turret in the corner, and one at the south-western corner,
+behind the hall, are very like those at St. James's Palace, and probably
+date very soon after the gate. Here at No. 13 Thurloe, Oliver Cromwell's
+Secretary of State, concealed a large collection of letters, which were
+discovered long after and have been published. The hall is low, and
+cannot be praised for any external architectural features of interest.
+The brickwork, which is older by twelve years than that of the gate, is
+concealed under a coat of stucco. There are three Gothic windows on each
+side, and the dimensions are about 70 feet by 32 feet high. The interior
+is not much more imposing, but the screen, in richly-carved oak,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> set up
+in 1565, is handsome, and there is a picture by Hogarth of St. Paul
+before Felix.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Spilsbury, the librarian, seems to have proved conclusively that the
+chapel, which stands at right angles to the old hall, was a new building
+when it was consecrated in 1623. There is no direct evidence that it was
+designed by Inigo Jones; on the other hand, there is a record in
+existence which testifies that the Society intended to employ him. John
+Clarke was the builder. There was an older chapel in a ruinous
+condition, which there is reason to believe had been that of the
+Bishops, as it was dedicated to St. Richard of Chichester. Mr. Spilsbury
+quotes one of the Harleian manuscripts, written in or about 1700, in
+which Inigo is named as the architect, and Vertue's engraving of 1751
+also mentions him. The chapel is elevated on an open crypt, which was
+intended for a cloister. Butler's "Hudibras" speaks of the lawyers as
+waiting for customers between "the pillar-rows of Lincoln's Inn." There
+were three bays, divided by buttresses, each of which was surmounted by
+a stone vase, a picturesque but incongruous arrangement, which was
+altered in the early days of the Gothic revival, being the first of a
+series of "restorations" to which the chapel has been subjected. A more
+serious offence against taste was the erection of a fourth bay at the
+west end, by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> which the old proportions are lost. It looks worst on the
+outside, however, and the fine old windows of glass stained in England,
+apparently after a Flemish design, are calculated to disarm criticism.
+Mr. Spilsbury attributes them to Bernard and Abraham van Linge, but the
+glass was made by Hall, of Fetter Lane. The monuments commemorate, among
+others, Spencer Perceval, murdered in 1812, and a daughter of Lord
+Brougham, who died in 1839, and was buried in the crypt. The office of
+chaplain was in existence as early as the reign of Henry VI. The
+preachership was instituted in 1581, and among those who held the office
+were John Donne, afterwards Dean of St. Paul's, who preached the first
+sermon when the chapel was new. Herring, another preacher, was made
+Archbishop of York in 1743, and of Canterbury in 1747. Another
+Archbishop of York, William Thomson, was preacher here, and was promoted
+in 1862. The greatest of the list was, perhaps, Reginald Heber, though
+he was only here for a year before he was appointed Bishop of Calcutta.</p>
+
+<p>The garden extends along the east side of Lincoln's Inn Fields, the New
+Square occupying the south portion, the new hall and library the middle
+part, and the west part of Stone Buildings facing the northern part. A
+terrace divides them, and there is a gate into the Fields, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> roadway
+leading north to Great Turnstile and Holborn. North of the Old Buildings
+and the chapel is Stone Buildings, in a handsome classical style, with a
+wing which looks into Chancery Lane near its Holborn end, and is half
+concealed by low shop-fronts. The history of the Stone Buildings is
+connected with that of the new hall and the library. Hardwick, one of
+the last of the school which might be connected with Chambers, the
+Adams, Payne, and other architects of the English Renaissance, was
+employed to complete Stone Buildings, begun by Sir Robert Taylor, before
+the end of the eighteenth century. Hardwick was at work in 1843, and his
+initials and a date, "P. H., 1843," are on the south gable of the hall.
+The new Houses of Parliament had just set the fashion for an attempt to
+revive the Tudor style, and Hardwick added to it the strong feeling for
+proportion which he had imbibed with his classical training. This gable
+is exceedingly satisfactory, the architect having given it a dignity
+wanting in most modern Gothic. It is of brick, with diagonal fretwork in
+darker bricks, as in the gate tower. The library had been removed to the
+Stone Buildings in 1787 from a small room south of the old hall, and,
+more accommodation being required, Hardwick designed a library to adjoin
+the new hall. The two looked very well, the hall being of six bays, with
+a great bow-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>window at the north end. The interior is embellished with
+heraldry in stained glass, carved oak, metal work, and fresco painting.
+At the north end, over the da&iuml;s, is Mr. G. F. Watts' great picture, "The
+School of Legislation." The hall is 120 feet long, 45 feet wide, and 62
+feet high. The roof of oak is an excellent imitation of an open timber
+roof of the fifteenth century, and is carved and gilt. The windows were
+filled with heraldry by Willement, and show us the arms of the legal
+luminaries who have adorned Lincoln's Inn, many of whom are also
+represented by busts and painted portraits. The hall is connected with
+an ample kitchen, and a series of butteries, pantries, and sculleries of
+suitable size.</p>
+
+<p>Adjoining the hall, the library and a reading-room, which as first built
+were calculated to enhance the dignity of the hall, were soon found to
+be too small. Sir Gilbert Scott was called in to add to them. The
+delicate proportions of Hardwick suffered in the process, the younger
+architect having evidently thought more of the details, as was the
+fashion of his school. The additions were carried out in 1873, and the
+library is now 130 feet long, but shuts out a large part of the view
+northward through the gardens. It is believed that Ben Jonson worked
+here as a bricklayer, and we are told by Fuller that he had a trowel in
+his hand and a book in his pocket. Aubrey says his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> mother had married a
+bricklayer, and that he was sent to Cambridge by a bencher who heard him
+repeating Homer as he worked. Of actual members of eminence, Lincoln's
+Inn numbers almost as many as the Inner Temple. Sir Thomas More among
+these comes first, but his father, who was a Judge, should be named with
+him. The handsome Lord Keeper Egerton, ancestor of so many eminent
+holders of the Bridgwater title, belonged to Lincoln's Inn during the
+reign of Elizabeth. The second Lord Protector, Richard Cromwell, was a
+student here in 1647, and Lenthall, his contemporary, was Reader. A
+little later Sir Matthew Hale, whose father had also been a member, was
+of this inn, and became Chief Justice in 1671. The first Earl of
+Mansfield was a barrister of Lincoln's Inn, and four or five Lords
+Chancellor in a row, including Bathurst, Campbell, St. Leonards, and
+Brougham.</p>
+
+<p>From the antiquarian or the picturesque point of view Lincoln's Inn is
+not so fascinating as the two Temples. It looks rather frowning from
+Chancery Lane, where it rises against the western sky. The old hall and
+the chapel are rather curious than beautiful, and cannot compare with
+Middle Temple Hall or the Church of the Knights. The fine buildings
+which overlook the gardens and trees of Lincoln's Inn Fields owe much to
+their open situation. The Stone Build<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span>ings where they look on the green
+turf of the garden are really magnificent, but they stand back from the
+public gaze, and are but seldom seen by the casual visitor.</p>
+
+
+<h3>CHANCERY LANE.</h3>
+
+<p>Strype says the Lane "received the name of Chancellor's Lane in the time
+of Edward I. The way was so foul and miry that John le Breton, Custos of
+London, and the Bishop of Chichester, kept bars with staples across it
+to prevent carts from passing. The roadway was repaired in the reign of
+Edward III., and acquired its present name under his successor, Richard
+II."</p>
+
+<p>About half of the Lane falls within the district, being in the parish of
+St. Andrew, Holborn. In it at the present time there is nothing worthy
+of remark, except the gateway of Lincoln's Inn, mentioned elsewhere.
+Offices, flats, and chambers in the solid modern style rise above shops.
+Near the north end is the Chancery Lane Safe Deposit. On the opposite
+side the old buildings of Lincoln's Inn frown defiance. Chancery Lane
+has for long been the chief connection between the Strand and Holborn,
+but will soon be superseded by Kingsway further west.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Near the north end are Southampton Buildings, rigidly modern, containing
+the Birkbeck Bank and Chambers. They are built on the site once covered
+by Southampton House, which came to William, Lord Russell, by his
+marriage with the daughter and heiress of the last Lord Southampton. It
+is difficult to realize now the scene thus described by J. Wykeham
+Archer: "It was in passing this house, the scene of his domestic
+happiness, on his way to the scaffold in Lincoln's Inn Fields, that the
+fortitude of the martyr for a moment forsook him; but, overmastering his
+emotion, he said, 'The bitterness of death is now past.'"</p>
+
+<p>Cursitor Street was in the eighteenth century noted for its
+sponging-houses, and many a reference is made to it in contemporary
+literature. We are now in the Liberties of the Rolls, a parish in
+itself.</p>
+
+<p>The Cursitors' Office was built by Bacon, Lord Keeper of the Great Seal,
+and adjoined the site of a palace of the Bishop of Chichester; and this
+adjoined the Domus Conversorum, or House of Converts, wherein the rolls
+of Chancery were kept, now replaced by the magnificent building of the
+new Record Office. Southward is Serjeants' Inn&mdash;the building still
+stands; also Clifford's Inn, once pertaining to the Inner Temple. The
+hall of Clifford's Inn was converted into a court<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> for the adjustment of
+boundaries after the Fire of London.</p>
+
+<p>On the west side of Chancery Lane, a few doors above Fleet Street, Izaak
+Walton kept a draper's shop. These details about the southern part of
+Chancery Lane are mentioned for the sake of continuity, for they do not
+come within the Holborn District.</p>
+
+<p>Chancery Lane was the birthplace of Lord Strafford, the residence of
+Chief Justice Hyde, of the Lord Keeper Guildford, and of Jacob Tonson.</p>
+
+<p>Passing on into Holborn and turning eastward, we soon perceive a row of
+quaint Elizabethan gabled houses (see <a href="#frontispiece">Frontispiece</a>), with overhanging
+upper stories and timber framework. The contrast with the modern
+terra-cotta buildings on the north side of the street is striking. The
+old houses are part of Staple Inn, now belonging to the Prudential
+Assurance Company, whose red terra-cotta it is that forms such a
+contrast across the way. It was bought by the company in 1884, and
+restored a few years later by the removal of the plaster which had
+concealed the picturesque beams. Still within St. Andrew's parish, we
+here arrive at the City boundaries. The numbering of Holborn proper,
+included in the City, begins a door or two above the old timbered
+entrance, which leads to the first court<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span>yard of Staple Inn. The
+courtyard is a real backwater out of the rushing traffic. The uneven
+cobble-stones, the whispering plane-trees, the worn red brick, and the
+flat sashed windows, of a bygone date all combine to make a picture of
+old London seldom to be found nowadays. Dr. Johnson wrote parts of
+"Rasselas" while a resident here.</p>
+
+<p>The way is a thoroughfare to Southampton Buildings, and continuing
+onward we pass another part of the old building with a quaint clock and
+small garden. Near at hand are the new buildings of the Patent Office
+and the Birkbeck Bank and Chambers, already mentioned, an enormous mass
+of masonry. The Inn contains a fine hall, thus mentioned in 1631:</p>
+
+<p>"Staple Inn was the Inne or Hostell of the Merchants of the Staple (as
+the tradition is), wherewith until I can learne better matter,
+concerning the antiquity and foundation thereof, I must rest satisfied.
+But for latter matters I cannot chuse but make report, and much to the
+prayse and commendation of the Gentlemen of this House, that they have
+bestowed great costs in new-building a fayre Hall of brick, and two
+parts of the outward Courtyards, besides other lodging in the garden and
+elsewhere, and have thereby made it the fayrest Inne of Chauncery in
+this Universitie."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The whole of this district abounds in these one-time Inns of Chancery,
+formerly attached to the Inns of Court; but those that remain are all
+now diverted to other uses, and some have vanished, leaving only a name.</p>
+
+<p>Further on there is Furnival Street, lately Castle Street, and so marked
+in Strype's map. The Castle Public-house still recalls the older name.
+Tradesmen of every kind occupy the buildings, besides which there is a
+Baptist mission-house. The buildings on the east side are of the
+old-fashioned style, dark brick with flat sashed windows.</p>
+
+<p>Furnival Street lies within the City. The street takes its name from
+Furnival's Inn, rebuilt in the early part of the nineteenth century.
+This stood on the north side of Holborn, and was without the City. There
+is, perhaps, less to say about it than about any of the other old Inns.
+It was originally the town-house of the Lords Furnival. It was an Inn of
+Chancery in Henry IV.'s reign, and was sold to Lincoln's Inn in the
+reign of Elizabeth. Its most interesting associations are that Sir
+Thomas More was Reader for three years, and that Charles Dickens had
+chambers here previous to 1837, while "Pickwick" was running in parts.
+It was rebuilt in great part in Charles I.'s reign, and entirely rebuilt
+about 1818. With the exception of the hall, it was used as an hotel.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span>
+The Prudential Assurance Company's palatial building now completely
+covers the site.</p>
+
+<p>In Holborn, opposite to the end of Gray's Inn Road, formerly stood
+Middle Row, an island of houses which formed a great obstruction to
+traffic. This was removed in 1867.</p>
+
+<p>The next opening on the south side is Dyers' Buildings, with name
+reminiscent of some former almshouses of the Dyers' Company. Then a
+small entry, with "Mercer's School" above, leads into Barnard's Inn, now
+the School of the Mercers' Company. The first court is smaller than that
+of Staple Inn, and lacks the whispering planes, yet it is redolent of
+old London. On the south side is the little hall, the smallest of all
+those of the London Inns; it is now used as a dining-hall. In the
+windows is some ancient stained glass, contemporary with the
+building&mdash;that is to say, about 470 years old.</p>
+
+<p>The exterior of this hall, with its steeply-pitched roof, is a favourite
+subject for artists. Beyond it are concrete courts, walls of glazed
+white brick, and cleanly substantial buildings, which speak of the
+modern appreciation of sanitation. A tablet on the wall records in
+admirably concise fashion the history of the Mercers' School and its
+various peregrinations until it found a home here in 1894. Before being
+bought by the Mercers' Company, the Inn had been let as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> residential
+chambers. It was also an Inn of Chancery, and belonged to Gray's Inn. It
+was formerly called Mackworth's Inn, being the property of Dr. John
+Mackworth, Dean of Lincoln. It was next occupied by a man named Barnard,
+when it was converted into an Inn of Chancery.</p>
+
+<p>The further court is bounded on the east side by one of the few very old
+buildings left in London. This was formerly the White Horse Inn, but is
+now also part of the Mercers' School buildings.</p>
+
+<p>Timbs quotes from Lord Eldon's "Anecdote Book," 1776, in which Lord
+Eldon says he came to the White Horse Inn when he left school, and here
+met his brother, Lord Stowell, who took him to see the play at Drury
+Lane, where "Lowe played Jobson in the farce, and Miss Pope played Nell.
+When we came out of the house it rained hard. There were then few
+hackney coaches, and we both got into one sedan-chair. Turning out of
+Fleet Street into Fetter Lane there was a sort of contest between our
+chairmen and some persons who were coming up Fleet Street.... In the
+struggle the sedan-chair was overset, with us in it."</p>
+
+<p>The white boundary wall of the Mercers' School replaces the old wall of
+the noted Swan Distillery (now rebuilt). This distillery was an object
+of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> attack in the Gordon Riots, partly, perhaps, because of its stores,
+and partly because its owner was a Roman Catholic. It was looted, and
+the liquor ran down in the streets, where men and women drank themselves
+mad. Dickens has thus described the riot scene in "Barnaby Rudge":</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"The gutters of the street and every crack and fissure in the
+stones ran with scorching spirit, which being dammed up by busy
+hands overflowed the road and pavement, and formed a great pool
+into which the people dropped down dead by dozens. They lay in
+heaps all round this fearful pond, husbands and wives, fathers and
+sons, mothers and daughters, women with children in their arms and
+babies at their breasts, and drank until they died. While some
+stooped their lips to the brink and never raised their heads again,
+others sprang up from their fiery draught, and danced half in a mad
+triumph, and half in the agony of suffocation, until they fell and
+steeped their corpses in the liquor that had killed them."</p></div>
+
+<p>Both the Holborn and Fleet Street ends of Fetter Lane were for more than
+two centuries places of execution. Some have derived the name from the
+fetters of criminals, and others from "fewtors," disorderly and idle
+persons, a corruption of "defaytors," or defaulters; while the most
+probable derivation is that from the "fetters" or rests on the
+breastplates of the knights who jousted in Fickett's Field adjoining.</p>
+
+<p>An interesting Moravian Chapel has an entry on the east side of Fetter
+Lane. This has memories of Baxter, Wesley, and Whitefield. It was bought
+by the Moravians in 1738, and was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> then associated with the name of
+Count Zinzendorf. It was attacked and dismantled in the riots. Dryden is
+supposed to have lived in Fetter Lane, but Hutton, in "Literary
+Landmarks," says the only evidence of such occupation was a curious
+stone, existing as late as 1885, in the wall of No. 16, over
+Fleur-de-Lys Court, stating:</p>
+
+
+<p class='center'>        "Here lived<br />
+        John Dryden,<br />
+          Ye Poet.<br />
+    Born 1631&mdash;Died 1700.<br />
+       Glorious John!"</p>
+
+
+<p>But he adds there is no record when or by whom the stone was placed.
+Otway is said to have lived opposite, and quarrelled with his
+illustrious neighbour in verse. In any case, Fleur-de-Lys Court lies
+outside the boundaries of the parish we are now considering. It may,
+however, be mentioned that the woman Elizabeth Brownrigg, who so foully
+tortured her apprentices, committed her atrocities in this court. Praise
+God Barebones was at one time a resident in the Lane, and in the same
+house his brother, Damned Barebones. The house was afterwards bought by
+the Royal Society, of which Sir Isaac Newton was then President, and the
+Royal Society meetings were held here until 1782.</p>
+
+<p>Returning to Holborn, from whence we have deviated, we come across
+Bartlett's Buildings,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> described by Strype as a very handsome, spacious
+place very well inhabited.</p>
+
+<p>Thavie's Inn bears the name of the vanished Inn of Chancery. Here was
+originally the house of an armourer called John Thavie, who, by will
+dated 1348, devised it with three shops for the repair and maintenance
+of St. Andrew's Church. It was bought for an Inn of Chancery by
+Lincoln's Inn in the reign of Edward III. It is curious how persistently
+the old names have adhered to these places. It was sold by Lincoln's Inn
+in 1771, and afterwards burnt down. The houses here are chiefly
+inhabited by jewellers, opticians, and earthenware merchants. There are
+a couple of private hotels.</p>
+
+<p>In St. Andrew's Street are the Rectory and Court-house, rebuilt from the
+designs of S. S. Teulon in yellow brick. The buildings form a
+quadrangle, with a wall and one side of the church enclosing a small
+garden. In the Court-house is a handsome oak overmantle, black with age,
+which was brought here from the old Court-house in St. Andrew's Court,
+pulled down in the construction of St. Andrew's Street and Holborn
+Viaduct in 1869.</p>
+
+<p>Holborn Circus was formed in connection with the approaches to the
+Viaduct. In the centre there is an equestrian statue of the Prince
+Consort in bronze, by C. Bacon. This was presented by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> an anonymous
+donor, and the Corporation voted &pound;2,000 for erecting a suitable pedestal
+for it. The whole was put up in 1874, two years after the completion of
+the Circus. On the north and south sides are bas-reliefs, and on the
+east and west statues of draped female figures seated.</p>
+
+<p>Holborn Viaduct was finished in 1869. It is 1,400 feet in length, and is
+carried by a series of arches over the streets in the valleys below. The
+main arch is over Farringdon Road, the bed of the Fleet or Holbourne
+Stream, and is supported by polished granite columns of immense
+solidity. At the four corners of this there are four buildings enclosing
+staircases communicating with the lower level, and in niches are
+respectively statues of Sir William Walworth, Sir Hugh Myddleton, Sir
+Thomas Gresham, and Sir Henry Fitz-Alwyn, with dates of birth and death.
+On the parapets of the Viaduct are four erect draped female figures,
+representative of Fine Art, Science, Agriculture, and Commerce. Holborn
+Viaduct is a favourite locality for bicycle shops.</p>
+
+<p>The City Temple (Congregational) and St. Andrew's Church are near
+neighbours, and conspicuous objects on the Viaduct just above Shoe Lane.
+The City Temple is a very solid mass of masonry with a cupola and a
+frontage of two stories in two orders of columns.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The parish of St. Andrew was formerly of much greater extent than at
+present, embracing not only Hatton Garden, Saffron Hill, but also St.
+George the Martyr, these are now separate parishes.</p>
+
+<p>The original Church of St. Andrew was of great antiquity. Malcolm, who
+gives a very full account of it in "Londinium Redivivum," says that it
+was given "very many centuries past" to the Dean and Chapter of St.
+Paul's, and the Abbot and Convent of St. Saviour, Bermondsey, by
+Gladerinus, a priest, on condition that the Abbot and Convent paid the
+Dean and the Chapter 12s. per annum. We also hear that there was a
+grammar-school attached to it, one of Henry VI.'s foundations, and that
+there had been previously an alien priory, a cell to the House of Cluny,
+suppressed by Henry V. The church continued in a flourishing condition.
+Various chantries were bestowed upon it from time to time, and in the
+will of the Rector, date 1447, it is stated that there were four altars
+within the church. In Henry VIII.'s time the principals of the four inns
+or houses in the parish paid a mark apiece to the church, apparently for
+the maintenance of a chantry priest. In Elizabeth's reign the tombs were
+despoiled: the churchwardens sold the brasses that had so far escaped
+destruction, and proceeded to demolish<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> the monuments, until an order
+from the Queen put a stop to this vandalism.</p>
+
+<p>In 1665 Stillingfleet (Bishop of Worcester) was made Rector. The church
+was rebuilt by Wren in 1686 "in a neat, plain manner." The ancient tower
+remained, and was recased in 1704. The building is large, light, and
+airy, and is in the florid, handsome style we are accustomed to
+associate with Wren. At the west end is a fine late-pointed arch,
+communicating with the tower, in which there is a similar window. This
+arch was blocked up and hidden by Wren, but was re-opened by the late
+Rector, the Rev. Henry Blunt, who also thoroughly restored and renovated
+the building some thirty years ago.</p>
+
+<p>The most interesting of the interior fittings is a porphyry altar,
+placed by Sacheverell, who was Rector from 1713 to 1724, and who is
+buried beneath it. A marble font, at which Disraeli was baptized at the
+age of twelve, is also interesting, and the pulpit of richly-carved
+wood, attributed to Grinling Gibbons, is very handsome. On the west wall
+is a marble slab, in memory of William Marsden, M.D., founder of the
+Royal Free and Cancer Hospitals. It was put up by the Cordwainers'
+Company in 1901.</p>
+
+<p>In the tower are many monuments of antiquity, but none to recall the
+memory of anyone notable. The church stood in a very commanding
+situation<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> until the building of the Viaduct, which passes on a higher
+level, giving the paved yard in front the appearance of having been
+sunk.</p>
+
+<p>On this side of the church there is a large bas-relief of the Last
+Judgment, without date. This was a favourite subject in the seventeenth
+century, and similar specimens, though not so fine, and differing in
+treatment, still exist elsewhere (see p. <a href="#Page_17">17</a>).</p>
+
+<p>Malcolm mentions a house next the White Hart, with land behind it, worth
+5s. per annum, called "Church Acre," and in the reign of Henry VII. the
+priest was fined 4d. for driving across the churchyard to the Rectory.
+In the twenty-fifth year of Elizabeth's reign there was a great heap of
+skulls and bones that lay "unseemly and offensive" at the east end of
+the church. The register records the burial here, on August 28, 1770, of
+"William Chatterton," presumably Thomas Chatterton, as the date accords.
+A later hand has added the words "the poet."</p>
+
+<p>Wriothesley, Henry VIII.'s Chancellor, was buried in St. Andrew's
+churchyard. Timbs says that this church has been called the "Poets'
+Church," for, besides the above, John Webster, dramatic poet, is said to
+have been parish clerk here, though the register does not confirm it.
+Robert Savage was christened here January 18, 1696.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>There is also a monument to Emery, the comedian, and Neale, another
+poet, was buried in the churchyard. But these records combined make but
+poor claim to such a proud title. The ground on which Chatterton was
+buried has now utterly vanished, having been covered first by the
+Farringdon Market, and later by great warehouses.</p>
+
+<p>When the Holborn Viaduct was built, a large piece of the churchyard was
+cut off, and the human remains thus disinterred were reburied in the
+City cemetery at Ilford, Essex.</p>
+
+<p>The earliest mention of Shoe Lane is in a writ of Edward II., when it is
+denominated "Scolane in the ward without Ludgate." In the seventeenth
+century we read of a noted cockpit which was established here.</p>
+
+<p>Gunpowder Alley, which ran out of this Lane, was the residence of
+Lovelace, the poet, and of Lilly, the astrologer. The former died here
+of absolute want in 1658. His well-known lines,</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"I could not love thee, dear, so much,<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">Loved I not honour more,"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>have made his fame more enduring than that of many men of greater
+poetical merit. In Shoe Lane lived also Florio, the compiler of our
+first Italian Dictionary. Coger's Hall in Shoe Lane attained some
+celebrity in the latter half of the eighteenth century. It was
+established for the purpose of debate, and, among others, O'Connell,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span>
+Wilkes, and Curran, met here to discuss the political questions of the
+day. On the west side of Shoe Lane was Bangor Court, reminiscent of the
+Palace or Inn of the Bishops of Bangor. This was a very picturesque old
+house, if the prints still existing are to be trusted, and parts of it
+survived even so late as 1828. It was mentioned in the Patent Rolls so
+early as Edward III.'s reign. Another old gabled house, called Oldbourne
+Hall, was on the east side of the street, but this, even in Stow's time,
+had fallen from its high estate and descended to the degradation of
+division into tenements.</p>
+
+<p>Opposite St. Andrew's Church was formerly Scrope's Inn. According to
+Stow,</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"This house was sometime letten out to sergeants-at-the-law, as
+appeareth, and was found by inquisition taken in the Guildhall of
+London, before William Purchase, mayor, and escheator for the king,
+Henry VII., in the 14th of his reign, after the death of John Lord
+Scrope, that he died deceased in his demesne of fee, by the
+feoffment of Guy Fairfax, knight, one of the king's justices, made
+in the 9th of the same king, unto the said John Scrope, knight,
+Lord Scrope of Bolton, and Robert Wingfield, esquire, of one house
+or tenement late called Sergeants' Inn, situate against the Church
+of St. Andrew in Oldbourne, in the city of London, with two gardens
+and two messuages to the same tenement belonging to the said city,
+to hold in burgage, valued by the year in all reprises ten
+shillings" (Thomas's edit. Stow, p. 144).</p></div>
+
+<p>This, as may be judged from the above, was not a regular Inn of
+Chancery, but appertained to Serjeants' Inn.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Crossing Holborn Circus to the north side, we come into the Liberty of
+Saffron Hill, Hatton Garden, and Ely Rents. This Liberty, is coterminous
+with the parish of St. Peter, Saffron Hill. Hatton Garden derives its
+name from the family of Hatton, who for many years held possession of
+house and grounds in the vicinity of Ely Place, having settled upon the
+Bishops of Ely like parasites, and grown rich by extortion from their
+unwilling hosts. The district was separated from St. Andrew's in 1832,
+and became an independent ecclesiastical parish seven years later. As
+the Liberty of Saffron Hill, Hatton Garden, and Ely Rents, it has a very
+ancient history. It was cut in two by a recent Boundary Commission, and
+put half in Holborn and half in Finsbury Borough Councils.</p>
+
+<p>Ely Place was built in 1773 on the site of the Palace of the Bishops of
+Ely. The earliest notice of the See in connection with this spot is in
+the thirteenth century, when Kirkby, who died in office in 1290,
+bequeathed to his official successors a messuage and nine cottages in
+Holborn. A succeeding Bishop, probably William de Luda, built a chapel
+dedicated to St. Ethelreda, and Hotham, who died in 1336, added a
+garden, orchard, and vineyard. Thomas Arundel restored the chapel, and
+built a large gate-house facing Holborn. The episcopal dwelling steadily
+rose<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> in magnificence and size. It boasted noble residents besides the
+Bishops, for John of Gaunt died here in 1399, having probably been
+hospitably taken in after the burning of his own palace at the Savoy.
+The strawberries of Ely Garden were famous, and Shakespeare makes
+reference to them, thus following closely Holinshed. But in the reign of
+Queen Elizabeth a blight fell on the Bishops. It began with the envious
+desires of Sir Christopher Hatton, who, by reason of his dancing and
+courtly tricks, had won the susceptible Queen's fancy and been made Lord
+Chancellor. He settled down on Ely Place, taking the gate-house as his
+residence, excepting the two rooms reserved as cells and the lodge. He
+held also part of the garden on a lease of twenty-one years, and the
+nominal rent he had to pay was a red rose, ten loads of hay, and &pound;10 per
+annum. The Bishop had the right of passing through the gate-house, of
+walking in his own garden, and of gathering twenty bushels of roses
+yearly. Hatton spent much money (borrowed from the Queen) in improving
+and beautifying the estate, which pleased him so well that he farther
+petitioned the Queen to grant him the whole property. The poor, ill-used
+Bishop protested, but was sternly repressed, and the only concession he
+could obtain was the right to buy back the estate if he could at any
+time repay<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> Hatton the sums which had been spent on it. But Hatton did
+not remain unpunished. The Queen, a hard creditor, demanded the immense
+sums which she had lent to him, and it is said he died of a broken
+heart, crushed at being unable to repay them. His nephew Newport, who
+took the name of Hatton, was, however, allowed to succeed him. The widow
+of this second Hatton married Sir Edward Coke, the ceremony being
+performed in St. Andrew's Church. The Bishops' and the Hattons' rights
+of property seem to have been somewhat involved, for after the death of
+this widow the Bishops returned, and in the beginning of the eighteenth
+century the Hatton property was saddled with an annual rent-charge of
+&pound;100 payable to the See; and, in 1772, when, on the death of the last
+Hatton heir, the property fell to the Crown, the See was paid &pound;200 per
+annum, and given a house in Dover Street, Piccadilly, in lieu of Ely
+Place. Malcolm says: "When a more convenient Excise Office was lately
+wanted, the ground on which Ely House stood was thought of for it, but
+its situation was objected to. When an intention was formed of removing
+the Fleet Prison, Ely House was judged proper on account of the quantity
+of ground about it, but the neighbouring inhabitants in Hatton Garden
+petitioned against the prison being built there. A scheme is now<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> (1773)
+said to be in agitation for converting it into a Stamp Office, that
+business being at present carried on in chambers in Lincoln's Inn." So
+much for the history and ownership of a place which played a
+considerable part in London history. The fabric itself must have been
+very magnificent. There was a venerable hall 74 feet long, with six
+Gothic windows. At Ely House were held magnificent feasts by the
+Serjeants-at-Law, one of which continued for five days, and was honoured
+on the first day by the presence of Henry VIII. and Katherine of Aragon.
+Stow's account of this festival is perhaps worth quoting:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"It were tedious to set down the preparation of fish, flesh, and
+other victuals spent in this feast, and would seem almost
+incredible, and, as to me it seemeth, wanted little of a feast at a
+coronation; nevertheless, a little I will touch, for declaration of
+the charge of prices. There were brought to the slaughter-house
+twenty-four great beefs at twenty-six shillings and eightpence the
+piece from the shambles, one carcass of an ox at twenty-four
+shillings, one hundred fat muttons two shillings and tenpence the
+piece, fifty-two great veals at four shillings and eightpence the
+piece, thirty-four porks three shillings and eightpence the piece,
+ninety-one pigs sixpence the piece, capons of geese, of one
+poulterer (for they had three), ten dozens at twenty-pence the
+piece, capons of Kent nine dozens and six at twelvepence the piece,
+capons coarse nineteen dozen at sixpence the piece, cocks of grose
+seven dozen and nine at eightpence the piece, cocks coarse fourteen
+dozen and eight at threepence the piece, pullets, the best,
+twopence halfpenny, other pullets twopence, pigeons thirty-seven
+dozen at tenpence the dozen, swans fourteen dozen, larks three
+hundred and forty dozen at fivepence the dozen, &amp;c. Edward Nevill
+was seneschal or steward, Thomas Ratcliffe, comptroller, Thomas
+Wildon, clerk of the Kitchen" (Thomas's edit. Stow, pp. 144, 145).</p></div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>During the Civil War the house was used both as a hospital and a prison.
+Great part of it was demolished during the imprisonment of Bishop Wren
+by the Commonwealth, and some of the surrounding streets were built on
+the site of the garden. Vine Street, Hatton Garden, Saffron Hill, of
+which the lower end was once Field Lane, carry their origin in their
+names. Evelyn, writing June 7, 1659, says that he came to see the
+"foundations now laying for a long streete and buildings on Hatton
+Garden, designed for a little towne, lately an ample garden." The
+chapel, dedicated to St. Ethelreda, now alone remains. It was for a time
+held by a Welsh Episcopalian congregation, but in 1874 was obtained by
+Roman Catholics, the Welsh congregation passing on to St. Benet's, on
+St. Benet's Hill in Thames Street. The chapel stands back from the
+street, and is faced by a stone wall and arched porch surmounted by a
+cross. This stonework is all modern. An entrance immediately facing the
+porch leads into the crypt, which is picturesque with old stone walls
+and heavily-timbered roof. This is by far the older part of the
+building, the chapel above being a rebuilding on the same foundation.
+The crypt probably dates back from the first foundation of De Luda, and
+the chapel from the restoration of Arundel. When the Roman Catholics
+came into possession, the late<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> Sir Gilbert Scott was employed in a
+thorough restoration, during which a heavy stone bowl, about the size of
+a small font, was dug up. It is of granite, and is supposed to be of
+considerably more ancient date than the fabric itself, being pre-Saxon.
+From the size, it is improbable it was used as a font, being more likely
+a holy-water stoup, for which purpose it is now employed. Having been
+placed on a fitting shaft, it stands outside the entrance to the church,
+on the south side, in the cloister, which is probably on the site of the
+ancient cloister. There is a simple Early English porch, beautifully
+proportioned with mouldings of the period. Within the church corresponds
+in shape with the crypt; two magnificent windows east and west are
+worthy of a much larger building. Those on each side are of recent date,
+having been reconstructed from a filled-in window on the south side of
+the chancel. The reliquary contains a great treasure&mdash;a portion of the
+hand of St. Ethelreda, which member, having been taken from the chapel,
+after many wanderings, fell into the possession of a convent of nuns,
+who refused to give it up. Finally judgment was given to the effect that
+the nuns should retain a portion, while the part of a finger was granted
+to the church, which was accordingly done. It was this saint who gave
+rise to our word "tawdry." She was popularly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> known as St. Awdrey, and
+strings of beads sold in her name at fairs, etc., came to be made of any
+worthless glass or rubbish, and were called tawdry. The crypt is used as
+a regular church, and is filled with seats; service is held here as well
+as above.</p>
+
+<p>The timber beams in the roof are now (1903) undergoing thorough
+restoration, and the outer walls of the chapel are being repointed.</p>
+
+<p>From this quaint relic of past times, rich with the indefinable
+attraction which nothing but a history of centuries can give, we pass
+out into Ely Place. This is a quiet cul-de-sac composed almost wholly of
+the offices of business men, solicitors, etc. At the north end, beyond
+the chapel, the old houses are down, and new ones will be erected in
+their place. At the end a small watchman's lodge stands on the spot
+where stood the Bishops' Gateway, in which the parasite, Sir Christopher
+Hatton, first fastened on his host.</p>
+
+<p>Hatton Garden is a wide thoroughfare with some modern offices and many
+older houses, with bracketed doorways and carved woodwork. It has long
+been associated with the diamond merchant's trade, and now diamond
+merchants occupy quite half of the offices. It is also the centre of the
+gold and silver trade. The City Orthop&aelig;dic Hospital is on the east
+side.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In Charles Street is the Bleeding Heart public-house, which derives its
+name from an old religious sign, the Pierced Heart of the Virgin. This
+is close to Bleeding Heart Yard, referred to in "Little Dorrit," and
+easily recalled by any reader of Dickens.</p>
+
+<p>In Cross Street there is an old charity school, with stuccoed figures of
+a charity boy and girl on the frontage. The Caledonian School was
+formerly in this street; it was removed to its present situation in
+1828. Whiston, friend of Sir Isaac Newton, lived here, and here Edward
+Irving first displayed his powers of preaching.</p>
+
+<p>Kirkby Street recalls what has already been said about the first Bishop
+of Ely, who purchased land whereon his successors should build a palace.
+It is a broad street, and in times past was a place of residence for
+well-to-do people.</p>
+
+<p>The lower part of Saffron Hill was known at first as Field Lane, and is
+described by Strype as "narrow and mean, full of Butchers and Tripe
+Dressers, because the Ditch runs at the back of their Slaughter houses,
+and carries away the filth." He also says that Saffron Hill is a place
+of small account, "both as to buildings and inhabitants, and pestered
+with small and ordinary alleys and courts taken up by the meaner sort of
+people, especially to the east side into the Town. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> Ditch separates
+the parish from St. John, Clerkenwell, and over this Ditch most of the
+alleys have a small boarded bridge."</p>
+
+<p>We can easily picture it, the courts swarming with thieves and rogues
+who slipped from justice by this back-way, which made the place a kind
+of warren with endless ramifications and outlets. All this district is
+strongly associated with the stories of Dickens, who mentions Saffron
+Hill in "Oliver Twist," not much to its credit. In later times Italian
+organ-grinders and ice-cream vendors had a special predilection for the
+place, and did not add to its reputation. Curiously enough, the resident
+population of the neighbourhood are now almost wholly British, with very
+few Italians, as the majority of the foreigners have gone to join the
+colony just outside the Liberty, in Eyre Street Hill, Skinner's Street,
+etc. Within quite recent times the clergyman of the parish dare only go
+to visit these parishioners accompanied by two policemen in plain
+clothes. Now the lower half is a hive of industry, and is lined by great
+business houses. Further north, on the east side, the dwellings are
+still poor and squalid, but on one side a great part of the street has
+been demolished to make way for a Board school, built in a way
+immeasurably superior to the usual Board school style. Opposite is the
+Church of St. Peter, which is an early work of Sir Charles Barry. This
+is in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> light stone, in the Perpendicular style, and has two western
+towers. It was built at the time of the separation of the district,
+about 1832.</p>
+
+<p>In Hatton Wall an old yard bore the name of Hat in Tun, which was
+interesting as showing the derivation of the word. Strype mentions in
+this street a very old inn, called the Bull Inn. The part of Hatton Wall
+to the west of Hatton Garden was known as Vine Street, and here there
+was "a steep descent into the Ditch, where there is a bridge that
+leadeth to Clerkenwell Green" (Strype). In Hatton Yard Mr. Fogg,
+Dickens' magistrate, presided over a police-court.</p>
+
+<p>Leather Lane is called by Strype "Lither" Lane. Even in his day he
+reviles it as of no reputation, and this character it retains. It is one
+of the open street markets of London, lined with barrows and coster
+stalls, and abounding in low public-houses. The White Hart, the King's
+Head, and the Nag's Head, are mentioned by Strype, and these names
+survive amid innumerable others. At the south end a house with
+overhanging stories remains; this curtails the already narrow space
+across the Lane.</p>
+
+<p>On the west of Leather Lane, Baldwin's Buildings and Portpool Lane open
+out. The former consists largely of workmen's model dwellings,
+comfortable and convenient within, but with the peculiarly depressing
+exteriors of the utilitarian<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> style. Further north these give way to
+warehouses, breweries, and manufactories. East of its southern end in
+Holborn were two old inns, the Old Bell and Black Bull. The former was a
+coaching inn of great celebrity in its day, and picturesque wooden
+balconies surrounded its inner courtyard. It has now been transformed
+into a modern public-house. It was the last of the old galleried inns of
+London. The Black Bull was also of considerable age. Its courtyard has
+been converted into dwellings.</p>
+
+<p>Brooke Street takes its name from Brooke Market, established here by
+Fulke Greville, Lord Brooke, but demolished a hundred years ago. It was
+in Brooke Street, in a house on the west side, that poor Chatterton
+committed suicide. St. Alban's Church is an unpretentious building at
+the north end. An inscription over the north door tells us that it was
+erected to be free for ever to the poor by one of the humble stewards of
+God's mercies, with date 1860. Within we learn that this benefactor was
+the first Baron Addington. The church is well known for its ritualistic
+services.</p>
+
+<p>Portpool Lane, marked in Strype's plan Perpoole, is the reminiscence of
+an ancient manor of that name. The part of Clerkenwell Road bounding
+this district to the north was formerly called by the appropriate name
+of Liquorpond Street.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> In it there is a Roman Catholic Church of St.
+Peter, built in 1863. The interior is very ornate. Just here, where Back
+Hill and Ray Street meet, was Hockley Hole, a famous place of
+entertainment for bull and bear baiting, and other cruel sports that
+delighted the brutal taste of the eighteenth century. One of the
+proprietors, named Christopher Preston, fell into his own bear-pit, and
+was devoured, a form of sport that doubtless did not appeal to him.
+Hockley Hole was noted for a particular breed of bull-dogs. The actual
+site of the sports is in the adjoining parish, but the name occurring
+here justifies some comment. Hockley in the Hole is referred to by Ben
+Jonson, Steele, Fielding, and others. It was abolished soon after 1728.</p>
+
+<p>It was in a sponging-house in Eyre Street that Morland, the painter,
+died. In the part of Gray's Inn Road to the north of Clerkenwell Road
+formerly stood Stafford's Almshouses, founded in 1652.</p>
+
+<p>At present Rosebery Avenue, driven through slumland, justifies its
+pleasant-sounding name, being a wide, sweeping, tree-lined road.
+Workmen's model dwellings rise on either side.</p>
+
+<p>The northern part of Gray's Inn Road falls within the parish of St.
+Pancras. The part which lies to the north of Theobald's Road was
+formerly called Gray's Inn Lane. In 1879-80 the east side<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> was pulled
+down, and the line of houses set back in the rebuilding. These consists
+of uninteresting buildings, with small shops on the ground-floor. On the
+west there are the worn bricks of Gray's Inn. At the corner of
+Clerkenwell Road is the Holborn Town-Hall, an imposing, well-built
+edifice of brick and stone, with square clock-tower, surmounted by a
+smaller octagonal tower and dome. The date is 1878.</p>
+
+<p>Gray's Inn Road is familiar to all readers of Dickens and Fielding, from
+frequent references in their novels. John Hampden took lodgings here in
+1640, in order to be near Pym, at a time when the struggle between the
+King and Parliament in regard to the question of ship money was at its
+sharpest. James Shirley, the dramatic poet of the seventeenth century,
+is also said to have lived here, but was probably in Gray's Inn itself.</p>
+
+
+<h3>GRAY'S INN.<br />
+
+<span class="smcap" style="font-size: 75%;">By W. J. Loftie.</span></h3>
+
+<p>An archway on the north side of Holborn, nearly opposite Chancery Lane,
+admits us to Gray's Inn. It is not the original entrance, which was
+round the corner in Portpool Lane, now called Gray's Inn Road. The Lords
+Grey of Wilton obtained<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> the Manor of Portpool at some remote period
+from the Canon of St. Paul's, who held it; we have no direct evidence as
+to whether the Canon had a house on the spot, but there are some traces
+of a chapel and a chaplain. In 1315 Lord Grey gave some land in trust to
+the Canons of St. Bartholomew to endow the chaplain in his mansion of
+Portpool. From its situation near London, the ready access both to the
+City and the country, with the fine views northward towards Hampstead
+and Highgate, this must have been a more desirable place of residence
+than even the neighbouring manor of the Bishop of Ely. It consisted in
+the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries of a gate-house which faced
+eastward, the chapel close to it on the left, and various other
+buildings, some of them apparently forming separate houses, with
+spacious gardens and a windmill. Here the Lords Grey lived for a couple
+of centuries in great state, apparently letting or lending the smaller
+houses to tenants or retainers&mdash;it would seem not unlikely to lawyers or
+students of the law, possibly their own men of business. This is no mere
+theory or guesswork. There has been too much conjecture about the early
+history of Gray's Inn, and the sober-minded topographer is warned off at
+the outset by a number of inconsistent assertions as to the early
+existence here of a school of law. Dugdale tells us that the manor was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span>
+granted to the Priory of Shene in the reign of Henry VII., and after the
+dissolution it was rented by a society of students of the law. A
+fictitious list of Readers goes back to the reign of Edward III., but
+will not bear critical examination. The lawyers paid a rent of &pound;6 13s.
+4d. to Henry VIII., and this charge passed into private hands by grant
+of Charles II. The lawyers bought it from the heir of the first grantee,
+and since 1733 have enjoyed the Inn rent-free. The opening into Holborn
+was made on the purchase by the society, in 1594, of the Hart on the
+Hoop, which then belonged to Fulwood, whose name is commemorated by
+Fulwood's Rents, now nearly wiped out by a station of the Central London
+Railway.</p>
+
+<p>The chief entrance is by the archway in Holborn. In 1867 the old brick
+arch was beplastered, obliterating a reminiscence of Dickens, who makes
+David Copperfield and Dora lodge over it. A narrow road leads into South
+Square, the north side of which is formed by the hall and library. The
+houses round the east and south sides are of uniform design, with
+handsome doorways. The hall has been much "restored," but was originally
+built in the reign of Queen Mary. It has a modern Gothic porch, carved
+with the griffin, which forms the coat armour of the Inn.</p>
+
+<p>The interior of the hall has been renovated,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> having been much injured
+in 1828, when the exterior was covered with stucco. The brick front is
+again visible, and the panelling and roof within are of carved oak.
+There are coats of arms in the windows, and on the walls hang portraits
+of Charles I., Charles II., James II., and the two Bacons&mdash;father and
+son&mdash;Sir Nicholas and Viscount St. Albans, who are the chief legal
+luminaries of the "ancient and honourable society." The library, modern,
+adjoins on the east, and contains a collection of important records and
+printed books on law.</p>
+
+<p>Passing through an arch at the western end of the hall, we enter Gray's
+Inn Square, formerly Chapel Court. The chapel is close to the library on
+the north side, and opens into Gray's Inn Square. This court was
+probably open on the north side to the fields before the reign of
+Charles II. Some of the buildings surrounding it are in a good Queen
+Anne style, and some have the cross-mullioned windows of a still earlier
+period. The exterior of the chapel is covered with stucco. The interior,
+which is very small&mdash;there being only seating for a congregation of
+about one hundred&mdash;was carefully examined three years ago, when a
+proposal was made to build a new chapel. The Gothic windows, walled up
+by the library to the south, came to light, and there seems some
+probability that the building is mainly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> that of Lord Grey's chantry of
+1315. Some improvements and repairs to the interior have saved the
+little chapel for the present. There are no monuments visible, but four
+Archbishops of Canterbury who were connected with the Inn are
+commemorated in the east window. They were Whitgift (1583-1604), Juxon
+(1660-1663), Wake (1715-1737), Laud (1633-1645), and in the centre
+Becket, whose only claim to be in such a goodly company appears to be
+that a window "gloriously painted," with the figure of St. Thomas of
+London, was destroyed by Edward Hall, the Reader, in 1539, according to
+the King's injunctions. A subsequent window, showing our Lord on the
+Mount, had long disappeared, and some heraldry was all the east end of
+the chapel could boast.</p>
+
+<p>The gardens open by a handsome gate of wrought iron into Field Court,
+which is westward of Gray's Inn Square. Here Bacon planted the trees,
+and enjoyed the view northward, then all open, from a summer-house which
+was only removed about 1754. Bacon lived in Coney Court, destroyed by
+fire in 1678, which looked on the garden.</p>
+
+<p>Among the names of eminent men which occur to the memory in Gray's Inn,
+we must mention a tradition which makes Chief Justice Gascoigne a
+student here. More real is Thomas Cromwell,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> the terrible Vicar-General
+of Henry VIII. Sir Thomas Gresham was a member of the Inn, as was his
+contemporary Camden, the antiquary. Lord Burghley and his second son,
+Robert, Earl of Salisbury, were both members, it is said, but certainly
+Burghley. The list of casual inhabitants is almost inexhaustible, being
+swelled by the heroes of many novels, actually or entirely fictitious.
+Shakespeare was said to have played in the hall. Bradshaw, who presided
+at the trial of Charles I., was a bencher; and so was Holt, the Chief
+Justice of William III. More eminent than either, perhaps, was Sir
+Samuel Romilly, whose sad death in 1818 caused universal regret. Pepys
+mentions the walks, and observed the fashionable beauties after church
+one Sunday in May, 1662. Sir Roger de Coverley is placed on the terrace
+by Addison, and both Dryden, Shadwell, and other old dramatists speak of
+the gardens. It was at Gray's Inn Gate&mdash;the old gate into Portpool
+Lane&mdash;that Jacob Tonson, the great bookseller and publisher of the
+eighteenth century, had his shop.</p>
+
+<p>The district northward of Gray's Inn needs very little comment. Great
+St. James Street is picturesque, with eighteenth-century doorways and
+carved brackets; the tenants of the houses are nearly all solicitors.
+Little St. James Street is insignificant and diversified by mews. In
+Strype's<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> plan the rectangle formed by these two streets is marked
+"Bowling Green"; in one corner is "the Cockpitt."</p>
+
+<p>Bedford Row is a very quiet, broad thoroughfare lined by
+eighteenth-century houses of considerable height and size, which for the
+most part still retain their noble staircases and well-proportioned
+rooms. Nearly every house is cut up into chambers. Abernethy, the great
+surgeon, formerly lived in this street, and Addington, Viscount
+Sidmouth, was born here; Bishop Warburton, the learned theologian and
+writer of the eighteenth century, and Elizabeth, daughter of Oliver
+Cromwell, are also said to have been among the residents. Ralph, the
+author of "Publick Buildings," admired it prodigiously, naming it one of
+the finest streets in London.</p>
+
+<p>Red Lion Square took its name from a very well-known tavern in Holborn,
+one of the largest and most notable of the old inns. There is a modern
+successor, a Red Lion public-house, at the corner of Red Lion Street. To
+the ancient inn the bodies of the regicides were brought the night
+before they were dragged on hurdles to be exposed at Tyburn. This gave
+rise to a tradition, which still haunts the spot, that some of these
+men, including Cromwell, were buried in the Square, and that dummy
+bodies were substituted to undergo the ignominy at Tyburn.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>There was for many years in the centre of the Square an obelisk with the
+inscription, "Obtusum Obtusioris Ingenii Monumentum Quid me respicis
+viator? Vade." And an attempt has been made to read the mysterious
+inscription as a Cromwellian epitaph. Pennant says that in his time the
+obelisk had recently vanished, which gives the date of destruction about
+1780.</p>
+
+<p>The Square was built about 1698, and is curiously laid out, with streets
+running diagonally from the corners as well as rectangularly from the
+sides. It had formerly a watch-house at each corner, as well as the
+obelisk in the centre. It is at present lined by brick houses of uniform
+aspect and unequal heights, with here and there a conspicuously modern
+building. The centre is laid out as a public garden, and forms a green
+and pleasant oasis in a very poor district.</p>
+
+<p>St. John the Evangelist's Church, of red brick, designed by Pearson,
+stands at the south-west corner. It was built 1876-1878, and is very
+conspicuous, with two pointed towers and a handsome, deeply-recessed
+east window. Next door is the clergy house. There are in the Square
+various associations and societies, including the Mendicity Society,
+Indigent Blind Visiting Society, St. Paul's Hospital, and others. Milton
+had a house which overlooked Red Lion Fields, the site of the Square,
+and Jonas Hanway, traveller and philanthropist,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> also a voluminous
+writer, but who will be best remembered as the first man in England to
+carry an umbrella, died here in 1786. Sharon Turner, historian, came
+here after his marriage in 1795, and Lord Chief Justice Raymond, who
+held his high office in the reign of the first and second Georges, lived
+in the Square. But a later association will, perhaps, be more
+interesting to most people: for about three years previously to 1859 Sir
+E. Burne-Jones and William Morris lived in rooms at No. 17, before
+either was married.</p>
+
+<p>Of the surrounding streets, those at the south-east and north-east
+angles are the most quaint. An old house with red tiles stands at each
+corner, and the remaining houses, though not so picturesque, are of
+ancient date. The streets are mere flagged passages lined by open stalls
+and little shops.</p>
+
+<p>Kingsgate Street is so named because it had a gate at the end through
+which the King used to pass to Newmarket. It is mentioned by Pepys, who
+under date March 8, 1669, records that the King's coach was upset here,
+throwing out Charles himself, the Dukes of York and Monmouth, and Prince
+Rupert, who were "all dirt, but no hurt." Near the end of this street in
+Holborn was the Vine Inn, important as having kept alive the only
+reference in Domesday Book to this district, "a vineyard in Holborn"
+belonging to the Crown.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Part of Theobald's Road was once King's Way; it was the direct route to
+King James I.'s hunting-lodge, Theobald's, in Hertfordshire. It was in
+this part, at what is now 22, Theobald's Road, that Benjamin Disraeli is
+supposed to have been born; but many other places in the neighbourhood
+also claim to be his birthplace, though not with so much authority.
+There was a cockpit in this Road in the eighteenth century.</p>
+
+<p>We are now in the diminutive parish of St. George the Martyr, carved out
+of that of St. Andrew's, Holborn, and originally including Red Lion
+Square and the streets adjacent.</p>
+
+<p>Gloucester Street was named after Queen Anne's sickly little son, the
+only one of her seventeen children who survived infancy. Robert Nelson,
+author of "Fasts and Festivals," was at one time a resident. The street
+is narrow and dirty, lined by old brick houses; here and there is a
+carved doorway with brackets, showing that, like most streets in the
+vicinity, it was better built than now inhabited, and it is probable
+that where sickly children now sprawl on doorsteps stately ladies in
+hoops and silken skirts once stepped forth. St. George's National
+Schools are here, and a public-house with the odd name of Hole in the
+Wall, a name adopted by Mr. Morrison in his recent novel about Wapping.</p>
+
+<p>Queen Square was built in Queen Anne's reign,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> and named in her honour,
+but it is a statue of Queen Charlotte that stands beneath the
+plane-trees in the centre.</p>
+
+<p>When it was first built, much eulogy was bestowed upon it, because of
+the beautiful view to the Hampstead and Highgate Hills, for which reason
+the north side was left open; it is still open, but the prospect it
+commands is only the further side of Guilford Street. The Square is a
+favourite place for charitable institutions. On the east side was, until
+1902, a College for Working Men and Women, designed to aid by evening
+classes the studies of those who are busy all day.</p>
+
+<p>The Hospital for Paralysis and Epilepsy is on the same side. This was
+instituted in 1859, but the present building was in 1885 opened by the
+Prince of Wales, and is a memorial to the Duke of Albany, and a very
+splendid memorial it is. The building, which occupies a very large space
+along the side of the Square, is ornately built of red brick and
+terra-cotta, with handsome balconies and a porch of the latter material.
+There are four wards for men and five for women, with two small surgical
+wards; also two contributing wards for patients who can afford to pay
+something toward their expenses.</p>
+
+<p>Almost exactly opposite, across the Square, is a new red-brick building.
+This is the Alexandra<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> Hospital, for children with hip disease, and
+sometimes a wan little face peeps out of the windows.</p>
+
+<p>On the south side is the Italian Hospital, lately rebuilt on a fine
+scale. There are other institutions and societies in the Square, such as
+the Royal Female School of Art, but none that call for any special
+comment.</p>
+
+<p>Among the eminent inhabitants of the Square were Dr. Stukeley, the
+antiquary, appointed Rector of the church, 1747&mdash;he lived here from the
+following year until his death in 1765; Dr. Askew; and John Campbell,
+author, and friend of Johnson, who used to give Sunday evening
+"conversation parties," where the great Doctor met "shoals of
+Scotchmen."</p>
+
+<p>The Church of St. George the Martyr stands on the west side of the
+Square, facing the open space at the south end. It was founded in 1706
+by private subscription as a chapel of ease to St. Andrew, and was named
+in honour of one of the founders, who had been Governor of Fort George,
+on the coast of Coromandel. "The Martyr" was added to distinguish it
+from the other St. George in the vicinity. It was accepted as one of the
+fifty new churches by the Commissioners in Queen Anne's reign, was
+consecrated in 1723, and had a district assigned to it. It was entirely
+rearranged and restored in 1868, and has lately been repainted. It is a
+most peculiar-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span>looking church, with a spire cased in zinc. Small figures
+of angels embellish some points of vantage, and the symbols of the four
+Evangelists appear in niches. The windows are round-headed, with tracery
+of a peculiarly ugly type; but the interior is better than the exterior,
+and has lately been repaired and redecorated throughout.</p>
+
+<p>Powis House originally stood where Powis Place, Great Ormond Street, now
+is. This was built by the second Marquis or Duke of Powis, even before
+he had sold his Lincoln's Inn Fields house to the Duke of Newcastle, for
+he was living here in 1708. The second Duke was, like his father, a
+Jacobite, and had suffered much for his loyalty to the cause, having
+endured imprisonment in the Tower, but he was eventually restored to his
+position and estates. The house was burnt down in 1714, when the Duc
+d'Aumont, French Ambassador, was tenant, and it was believed that the
+fire was the work of an incendiary. The French King, Louis XIV., caused
+it to be rebuilt at his own cost, though insurance could have been
+claimed. In 1777 this later building was taken down.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Chancellor Thurlow lived in this street at No. 46, and it was from
+this house, now the Working Men's College, that the Great Seal was
+stolen and never recovered.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Mead, a well-known physician, had a house<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> here, afterwards occupied
+by the Hospital for Sick Children.</p>
+
+<p>The Working Men's College began at the instigation of a barrister in
+1848, and was fathered by the Rev. F. D. Maurice, who was Principal
+until his death. It grew rapidly, and in 1856 became affiliated to
+London University. The adjacent house was bought, in 1870 additional
+buildings were erected, and four years later the institution received a
+charter of incorporation. Maurice was succeeded in the principalship by
+Thomas Hughes, and Hughes by Lord Avebury, then Sir John Lubbock.</p>
+
+<p>The Hospital for Sick Children is a red-brick building designed by Sir
+C. Barry. Within, the wards are lined by glazed tiles, and the floors
+are of parquet. Each ward is named after some member of the Royal
+Family&mdash;Helena, Alice, etc. The children are received at any age, and
+the beds are well filled. Everything, it is needless to say, is in the
+beautifully bright and cleanly style which is associated with the modern
+hospital. The chapel is particularly beautiful; it is the gift of Mr. W.
+H. Barry, a brother of the architect, and the walls are adorned with
+frescoes above inlaid blocks of veined alabaster.</p>
+
+<p>The Hom&oelig;opathic Hospital, which is on the same side of the street
+nearer to the Square, is another large and noticeable building. This is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span>
+the only hospital of the kind in London. The present building occupies
+the site of three old houses, one of which was the residence of Zachary
+Macaulay, father of the historian. There are in all seven wards, two for
+men, three for women, one for girls, and one for children. The
+children's ward is as pretty as any private nursery could be. The
+hospital is absolutely free, and the out-patient department
+exceptionally large.</p>
+
+<p>In Great Ormond Street there are also one or two Benefit Societies,
+Manchester Unity Independent Order of Oddfellows for the North London
+District, and many sets of chambers. This district seems particularly
+favourable to the growth of charitable institutions.</p>
+
+<p>Lamb's Conduit Street is called after one Lamb, who built a conduit here
+in 1577. This was a notable work in the days when the water-supply was a
+very serious problem. Thus, a very curious name is accounted for in a
+matter-of-fact way. In Queen Anne's time the fields around here formed a
+favourite promenade for the citizens when the day's work was done.</p>
+
+<p>The parish of St. George, Bloomsbury, which lies westward of St. George
+the Martyr, is considerably larger than its neighbour. The derivation of
+this name is generally supposed to be a corruption of Blemund's Fee,
+from one William de Blemund, who was Lord of the Manor in Henry VI.'s
+reign. Stow<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> and others have written the word "Loomsbury," or
+"Lomesbury," but this seems to be due to careless orthography, and not
+to indicate any ancient rendering.</p>
+
+<p>The earliest holder of the manor of whom we have any record is the De
+Blemund mentioned above. There are intermediate links missing at a later
+date, but with the possession of the Southampton family in the very
+beginning of the seventeenth century the history becomes clear again. In
+1668 the manor passed into the hands of the Bedfords by marriage with
+the heiress of the Southamptons. This family also held St. Giles's,
+which, it will be remembered, was originally also part of the Prebendary
+of St. Paul's.</p>
+
+<p>The Royal Mews was established at Bloomsbury (Lomesbury) from very early
+times to 1537, when it was burnt down and the mews removed to the site
+of the present National Gallery (see <i>The Strand</i>, same series).</p>
+
+<p>The parish is largely composed of squares, containing three large and
+two small ones, from which nearly all the streets radiate. The British
+Museum forms an imposing block in the centre. This is on the site of
+Montague House, built for the first Baron Montague, and burnt to the
+ground in 1686. It was rebuilt again in great magnificence, with painted
+ceilings, according to the taste of the time, and Lord Montague, then
+Duke of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> Montague, died in it in 1709. The house and gardens occupied
+seven acres. The son and heir of the first Duke built for himself a
+mansion at Whitehall (see <i>Westminster</i>, same series, p. 83), and
+Montague House was taken down in 1845, when the present buildings of the
+Museum were raised in its stead.</p>
+
+<p>The Museum has rather a curious history. Like many of our national
+institutions, it was the result of chance, and not of a detailed scheme.
+In 1753 Sir Hans Sloane, whose name is associated so strongly with
+Chelsea, died, and left a splendid collection comprising "books,
+drawings, manuscripts, prints, medals, seals, cameos, precious stones,
+rare vessels, mathematical instruments, and pictures," which had cost
+him something like &pound;50,000. By his will Parliament was to have the first
+refusal of this collection for &pound;20,000. Though it was in the reign of
+the needy George II., the sum was voted, and by the same Act was bought
+the Harleian collection of MSS. to add to it; to this was added the
+Cottonian Library of MSS., and the nation had a ready-made collection.
+The money to pay for the Sloane and Harleian collections was raised by
+an easy method of which modern morals do not approve&mdash;that is to say, by
+lottery. Many suggestions were made as to the housing of this national
+collection. Buckingham House, now Buckingham<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> Palace, was spoken of,
+also the old Palace Yard; of course, the modern Houses of Parliament
+were not then built. Eventually Montague House was bought, and the
+Museum was opened to the public in 1757. However, it had not ceased
+growing. George III. presented some antiquities, which necessitated the
+opening of a new department; to these were added the Hamilton and
+Townley antiquities by purchase, and in 1816 the Elgin Marbles were
+taken in temporarily. On the death of George III., George IV. presented
+his splendid library, known as the King's Library, to the Museum, not
+from any motive of generosity, but because he did not in the least
+appreciate it. Greville, in his Journal (1823), says: "The King had even
+a design of selling the library collected by the late King, but this he
+was obliged to abandon, for the Ministers and the Royal Family must have
+interposed to oppose so scandalous a transaction. It was therefore
+presented to the British Museum."</p>
+
+<p>It then became necessary to pull down Montague House and build a Museum
+worthy of the treasures to be enshrined. Sir Robert Smirke was the
+architect, and the present massive edifice is from his designs. The
+buildings cost more than &pound;800,000.</p>
+
+<p>As this is no guide-book, no attempt is made to classify the departments
+of the Museum or to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> indicate its riches. These may be found by
+experiment, or read in the official guides to be bought on the spot.</p>
+
+<p>On the east is Montague Street, running into Russell Square.</p>
+
+<p>Southampton House, the ancient manor-house, celebrated for the famous
+lime-trees surrounding it, stood on the ground now occupied by Bedford
+Place. Noorthouck describes it as "elegant though low, having but one
+storey." It is commonly supposed to have been the work of Inigo Jones.
+When the property came into the Bedford family, it was occasionally
+called Russell House, after their family name. Maitland says that, when
+he wrote, one of the Parliamentary forts, two batteries, and a
+breastwork, remained in the garden. The house was demolished in 1800,
+and Russell Square was begun soon after. A double row of the lime-trees
+belonging to Bedford House had extended over the site of this Square.
+All this ground had previously been known as Southampton Fields, or Long
+Fields, and was the resort of low classes of the people, who here fought
+their pitched battles, generally on Sundays. It was known during the
+period of Monmouth's Rebellion as the Field of the Forty Footsteps,
+owing to the tradition that two brothers killed each other here in a
+duel, while the lady who was the cause of the conflict looked on.
+Subsequently no grass grew<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> on the spots where the brothers had planted
+their feet.</p>
+
+<p>Southey, in his "Commonplace Book," thus narrates his own visit to the
+spot:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"We sought for near half an hour in vain. We could find no steps at
+all within a quarter of a mile, no, nor half a mile, of Montague
+House. We were almost out of hope, when an honest man, who was at
+work, directed us to the next ground, adjoining to a pond. There we
+found what we sought, about three-quarters of a mile north of
+Montague House, and 500 yards east of Tottenham Court Road. The
+steps are of the size of a large human foot, about three inches
+deep, and lie nearly from north-east to south-west. We counted only
+seventy-six; but we were not exact in counting. The place where one
+or both the brothers are supposed to have fallen is still bare of
+grass. The labourer also showed us where (the tradition is) the
+wretched woman sat to see the combat." Southey adds his full
+confidence in the tradition of the indestructibility of the steps,
+even after ploughing up, and of the conclusions to be drawn from
+the circumstance (<i>Notes and Queries</i>, No. 12).</p></div>
+
+<p>A long-forgotten novel, called "Coming Out; or, The Field of the Forty
+Footsteps," was founded on this legend, as was also a melodrama.</p>
+
+<p>Russell Square is very little inferior to Lincoln's Inn Fields in size,
+and at the time of its building had a magnificent situation, with an
+uninterrupted prospect right up to the hills of Hampstead and Highgate,
+and the only house then standing was on the east side; it belonged to
+the profligate Lord Baltimore, and was later occupied by the Duke of
+Bolton. The new Russell Hotel, at the corner of Guilford Street, and
+Pitman's School<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> of Shorthand, in the south-eastern corner, are the only
+two buildings to note. A bronze statue of Francis, Duke of Bedford,
+executed by Westmacott, stands on the south side of the Square; this
+faces a similar statue of Fox in Bloomsbury Square.</p>
+
+<p>The Square seems to have been peculiarly attractive to men high up in
+the profession of the law. Sir Samuel Romilly, the great law reformer,
+lived here until his sad death in 1818; he committed suicide in grief at
+the loss of his wife. In the same year his neighbour Charles Abbot,
+afterwards first Baron Tenterden, was made Lord Chief Justice. He was
+buried at the Foundling Hospital by his own request. In 1793 Alexander
+Wedderburn (first Baron Loughborough and first Earl of Rosslyn), also a
+resident in the Square, was appointed Lord Chancellor. After this he
+probably moved to the official residence in Bedford Square.</p>
+
+<p>Frederick D. Maurice was at No. 5 from 1856 to 1862. Sir Thomas Lawrence
+lived for twenty years at No. 65, and while he was executing the
+portrait of Platoff, the Russian General, the Cossacks, mounted on small
+white horses, stood on guard in the Square before his door.</p>
+
+<p>Bloomsbury Square was at first called Southampton Square, and the sides
+were known by different names&mdash;Seymour Row, Vernon Street, and Allington
+Row. The north side was occupied<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> by Bedford House. It is considerably
+older than its large neighbour on the north, and is mentioned by Evelyn
+in his Diary, on February 9, 1665. In Queen Anne's reign it was a most
+fashionable locality. The houses suffered greatly during the Gordon
+Riots, especially Lord Mansfield's house, in the north-east corner,
+which was completely ruined internally, and in which a most valuable
+library was destroyed, while Lord and Lady Mansfield made their escape
+from the mob by a back-door. Pope refers to the Square as a fashionable
+place of resort. Among the names of famous residents we have Sir Richard
+Steele, Richard Baxter, the Nonconformist divine, Dr. Akenside, and Sir
+Hans Sloane. The elder D'Israeli, who compiled "Curiosities of
+Literature," lived in No. 6; he came here in 1818, when his famous son
+was a boy of fourteen.</p>
+
+<p>The College of Preceptors stands on the south side. The Pharmaceutical
+Society, established in 1841, first took a house in the Square in that
+year. It was incorporated by royal charter two years later, and in 1857
+the two adjacent houses in Great Russell Street were added to the
+premises, which include a library and museum. There is also at No. 30
+the Institute of Chemistry of Great Britain and Ireland.</p>
+
+<p>In Southampton Street Colley Cibber, the dramatist and actor, was born.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Silver Street, which is connected with Southampton Street by a covered
+entry, is described by Strype as "indifferent well built and
+inhabited"&mdash;a character it apparently keeps up to this day.</p>
+
+<p>Bloomsbury Market Strype describes as "a long place with two
+market-houses, the one for flesh and the other for fish, but of small
+account by reason the market is of so little use and so ill served with
+provisions, insomuch that the inhabitants deal elsewhere." In Parton's
+time it was still extant, "exhibiting little of that bustle and business
+which distinguishes similar establishments." Though it was cleared away
+in 1847, its site is marked by Market Street, which with Silver and
+Bloomsbury Streets forms a cross.</p>
+
+<p>Southampton Row is a very long street, extending from Russell Square to
+High Holborn. It includes what was formerly King Street and Upper King
+Street, which together reached from High Holborn to Bloomsbury Place.
+Gray, the poet, lodged in this Row in 1759.</p>
+
+<p>The Church of St. George is in Hart Street. St. George's parish was
+formed from St. Giles's on account of the great increase of buildings in
+this district. In 1710 the proposal for a new church was first mooted,
+and in 1724 the parishes were officially separated. The church stands on
+a piece of ground formerly known as Plough Yard.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> It is the work of
+Hawkesmoor, Wren's pupil, and was consecrated in 1730. It cannot be
+better described than in the words of Noorthouck: "This is an irregular
+and oddly constructed church; the portico stands on the south side, of
+the Corinthian order, and makes a good figure in the street, but has no
+affinity to the church, which is very heavy, and would be better suited
+with a Tuscan portico. The steeple at the west is a very extraordinary
+structure; on a round pedestal at the top of a pyramid is placed a
+colossal statue of the late King [George I.], and at the corners near
+the base are alternately placed the lion and unicorn, the British
+supporters, with festoons between. These animals, being very large, are
+injudiciously placed over columns very small, which make them appear
+monsters." The lions and unicorns have now been removed. This steeple
+has been described by Horace Walpole as a masterpiece of absurdity.
+Within, the walls rise right up to the roof with no break, and give an
+impression of great spaciousness. There is a small chapel on either
+side, that on the east, of an apselike shape, being used as a
+baptistery. The western one contains a ponderous monument erected in
+memory of one of their officials by the East India Company. There are
+other monuments in the church, but none of any general interest. The
+Communion-table is enclosed by a wooden canopy with fluted columns,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span>
+said to be of Italian origin, and to have been brought from old Montague
+House.</p>
+
+<p>In Little Russell Street are the parochial schools. These were
+established in 1705 in Museum Street, and were removed in 1880 to the
+present building. They were founded by Dr. Carter for the maintenance,
+clothing, and education of twenty-five girls, and the clothing and
+education of eighty boys. The intentions of the founder are still
+carried out, as recorded on a stone slab on the front of the building,
+which is a neat brick edifice, with a group of a woman and child in
+stone in a niche high up, and an appropriate verse from Proverbs below.</p>
+
+<p>Allusion has already been made to New Oxford Street. It extends from
+Tottenham Court Road to Bury Street, and is lined by fine shops and
+large buildings, chiefly in the ornamental stuccoed style. The Royal
+Arcade&mdash;"a glass-roofed arcade of shops extending along the rear of four
+or five of the houses, and having an entrance from the street at each
+end"&mdash;was opened about 1852, but did not answer the expectations formed
+of it, and was pulled down (Walford).</p>
+
+<p>At the corner of Museum Street, once Peter Street, is Mudie's famous
+library. The founder, who died in 1890, began a lending library in King
+Street in 1840, and in 1852 removed to the present quarters. In 1864 the
+concern was turned into a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> limited liability company. The distribution
+of books now reaches almost incredible figures.</p>
+
+<p>Great Russell Street Strype describes as being very handsome and very
+well inhabited. Thanet House, the town residence of the Thanets in the
+seventeenth century, stood on the north side. Sir Christopher Wren built
+a house for himself in this street. Among the inhabitants and lodgers
+have been Shelley and Hazlitt, J. P. Kemble, Speaker Onslow, Pugin the
+elder, Charles Mathews the elder, and, in later years, Sir E.
+Burne-Jones.</p>
+
+<p>At the west end Great Russell Street runs into Tottenham Court Road, a
+portion of which lies in the parish of St. Giles. Toten Hall itself,
+from which the name is taken, stood at the south end of the Hampstead
+Road, and an account of it belongs to the parish of St. Pancras. There
+is little to remark upon in that part of the Road we can now claim. At
+the south end is Meux's well-known brewery, bought by the family of that
+name in 1809. In 1814 an immense vat burst here, which flooded the
+immediate neighbourhood in a deluge of liquor. The Horseshoe Hotel can
+claim fairly ancient descent; it has been in existence as a tavern from
+1623. It was called the Horseshoe from the shape of its first
+dining-room. A Consumption Hospital stands midway between North and
+South Crescent.</p>
+
+<p>Bedford Square also falls within St. Giles's<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> parish, but it belongs by
+character and date to Bloomsbury. The Square was erected about the very
+end of the eighteenth century. Dobie says that "Bedford Square arose
+from a cow-yard to its present magnificent form ... with its avenues and
+neighbouring streets ... chiefly erected since 1778," while it appears
+in a map of 1799 as "St. Giles's Runs." The official residence of the
+Lord Chancellor was on the east side. Lord Loughborough lived there, and
+subsequently Lord Eldon, who had to escape with his wife into the
+British Museum gardens when the mob made an attack on his house during
+the Corn Law riots.</p>
+
+<p>The streets running north and south are all of the same prosperous,
+substantial character. About Chenies Street large modern red-brick
+mansions have arisen.</p>
+
+<p>Woburn Square is a quiet place, with fine trees growing in its pleasant
+garden. In it is Christ Church, the work of Vulliamy, date 1833. It is
+of Gothic architecture, and is prettily finished with buttresses and
+pinnacles, in spite of the ugly material used&mdash;namely, white brick. It
+was at first designed to call the Square Rothesay Square, but it was
+eventually named Woburn, after the seat of the Duke of Bedford.</p>
+
+<p>Great Coram Street was, of course, named after the genial founder of the
+Foundling Hospital<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span>. In it is the Russell Institution, built at the
+beginning of the century as an assembly-room, and later used as
+institute and club. It was frequently visited by Dickens, Leech, and
+Thackeray, the last named of whom came here in 1837, and remained until
+1843, when the house had to be given up owing to the incurable nature of
+his wife's mental malady. He wrote here many papers and articles,
+including the famous "Yellow-plush Papers," which appeared in <i>Fraser's
+Magazine</i>; but his novels belong to a later period.</p>
+
+<p>We have now wandered over a district rich in association, containing
+some of the oldest domestic architecture existing in London, but which,
+taken as a whole, is chiefly of a date belonging to the late seventeenth
+and early eighteenth centuries&mdash;a date when ladies wore powder and
+patches, when sedan-chairs were more common than hackney cabs, and when
+the voice of the link-boy was heard in the streets.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="BOUNDARIES_OF_THE_ECCLESIASTICAL_PARISHES" id="BOUNDARIES_OF_THE_ECCLESIASTICAL_PARISHES"></a>BOUNDARIES OF THE ECCLESIASTICAL PARISHES.</h2>
+
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">St. Giles-in-the-Fields</span>.</h3>
+
+<p>This parish is bounded on the south by Castle Street; east by part of
+Drury Lane, Broad Street, and Dyott Street, thence by a line cutting
+diagonally across the south-east corner of Bedford Square, across Keppel
+Street and Torrington Mews, and touching Byng Place at the north-west
+corner of Torrington Square; on the north by a line cutting across from
+this point westward, and striking Tottenham Court Road just above Alfred
+Mews; on the westward by Tottenham Court Road and Charing Cross Road to
+Cambridge Circus, thence by West Street to the corner of Castle Street,
+and so the circuit is complete.</p>
+
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">St. George the Martyr</span>.</h3>
+
+<p>Bounded on the south by Theobald's Road, on the east by Lamb's Conduit
+Street (both included in the parish), on the north by Guilford Street,
+and on the west by Southampton Row (which are not so included).<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">St. Andrew, Holborn.</span></h3>
+
+<p>Bounded on the east by Farringdon Street from Charterhouse Street to No.
+66, which is just beyond Farringdon Avenue; on the north by Holborn and
+High Holborn from the Viaduct Bridge to Brownlow Street; on the west by
+a line drawn from the upper end of Brownlow Street across High Holborn,
+cutting through No. 292, and through part of Lincoln's Inn (taking in
+Stone Buildings, and as far as a few yards south of Henry VIII.'s
+gateway); on the south by a line from Lincoln's Inn across Chancery
+Lane, along Cursitor Street, cutting across Fetter Lane, down Dean
+Street to Robin Hood Court, across Shoe Lane to Farringdon Street.</p>
+
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">St. George, Bloomsbury.</span></h3>
+
+<p>Bounded on the south by Broad Street and High Holborn to Kingsgate
+Street; on the east by Kingsgate Street, and a line behind the east side
+of Southampton Row (including it), coming out at No. 54, Guilford
+Street; on the north by a line across the north side of Russell Square
+and along Keppel Street; on the west from thence by a diagonal line,
+which cuts off the south-east corner of Bedford Square to Dyott Street,
+and so to Broad Street.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Hatton Garden, Saffron Hill</span>.</h3>
+
+<p>Bounded on the west by Leather Lane; on the south by Holborn and
+Charterhouse Street to Farringdon Road; on the east by Farringdon Road;
+and on the north by Back Hill.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX</h2>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Abernethy, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li>
+<li>Akenside, Dr., <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+<li>Aldewych, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+<li>Alexandra Hospital, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li>
+<li>Ancaster House, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li>
+<li>Arundel, Bishop, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Babington, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
+<li>Bacon, Francis, <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li>
+<li>Bacon, Roger, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li>
+<li>Bainbridge Street, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
+<li>Bangor Court, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li>
+<li>Barnard's Inn, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
+<li>Baxter, Richard, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+<li>Bedford Row, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li>
+<li>Bedford Square, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+<li>Belayse, John, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
+<li>Betterton, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+<li>Betterton Street, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+<li>Birkbeck Bank, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li>
+<li>Black Bull, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li>
+<li>Black Swan, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li>
+<li>Bleeding Heart Yard, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
+<li>Bloomsbury Market, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+<li>Bowl, The, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+<li>Bradshaw, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li>
+<li>British Museum, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li>
+<li>Broad Street, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+<li>Brooke Street, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li>
+<li>Brownlow, Sir John, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+<li>Buckridge Street, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
+<li>Burghley, Lord, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li>
+<li>Burne-Jones, Sir E., <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+<li>Burton St. Lazar, <a href="#Page_11">11</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Caledonian School, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
+<li>Camden, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li>
+<li>Carew, Sir Wymonde, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li>
+<li>Chancery Lane, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li>
+<li>Chapman, George, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
+<li>Charles Street, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
+<li>Chatterton, Thomas, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li>
+<li>Church Street, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
+<li>Churches:
+  <ul class="IX">
+  <li>Christ Church, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+  <li>City Temple, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
+  <li>St. Andrew's, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
+  <li>St. Ethelreda's Chapel, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li>
+  <li>St. George the Martyr, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li>
+  <li>St. George's, Bloomsbury, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+  <li>St. Giles's, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li>
+  <li>St. John the Evangelist's, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li>
+  <li>St. Peter's, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li>
+  <li>Moravian Chapel, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li>
+  <li>Trinity Church, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li>
+  </ul></li>
+<li>Cibber, Colley, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+<li>Clare House, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+<li>Clifford's Inn, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li>
+<li>Coal Yard, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+<li>Cope, Sir Walter, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li>
+<li>Cobham, Lord, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li>
+<li>Cock and Pye, The, <a href="#Page_22">22</a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span></li>
+<li>Cockpit, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+<li>Coke, Sir Edward, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li>
+<li>College of Preceptors, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+<li>Craven House, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+<li>Croche Hose, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li>
+<li>Cromwell, Oliver, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li>
+<li>Cromwell, Richard, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li>
+<li>Cromwell, Thomas, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li>
+<li>Cross Street, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
+<li>Cursitor Street, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>De Luda, Bishop, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li>
+<li>Denmark Street, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+<li>Dickens, Charles, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>
+<li>Digby, Sir Kenelm, <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li>
+<li>Disraeli, Benjamin, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li>
+<li>D'Israeli, Isaac, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+<li>Donne, John, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li>
+<li>Drury Lane, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+<li>Dudley, Duchess of, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li>
+<li>Dyers' Buildings, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
+<li>Dyott Street, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Earl Street, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+<li>Edward III., <a href="#Page_11">11</a></li>
+<li>Egerton, Lord Keeper, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li>
+<li>Emery, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
+<li>Endell Street, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+<li>Ely Place, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li>
+<li>Eyre Street, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Fairfax, Sir Thomas, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+<li>Fetter Lane, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li>
+<li>Fickett's Field, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
+<li>Field Lane, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
+<li>Fleur-de-Lys Court, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li>
+<li>Florio, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
+<li>Franklin, Benjamin, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+<li>Freemasons' Hall, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+<li>Furnival's Inn, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>
+<li>Furnival Street, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Gate Street, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li>
+<li>George and Blue Boar, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li>
+<li>Gerarde, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li>
+<li>Gloucester Street, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li>
+<li>Goldsmith Street, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+<li>Gordon Riots, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+<li>Gray's Inn, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li>
+<li>Gray, Thomas, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+<li>Great and Little Turnstile, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li>
+<li>Great Coram Street, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li>
+<li>Great Ormond Street, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li>
+<li>Great Queen Street, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+<li>Great Russell Street, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+<li>Gresham, Sir T., <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li>
+<li>Greville, Fulke, <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li>
+<li>Guildford, Lord Keeper, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li>
+<li>Gunpowder Alley, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
+<li>Gwynne, Nell, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Hale, Sir Matthew, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li>
+<li>Hanway, Jonas, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li>
+<li>Hare and Hounds, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+<li>Hatton Garden, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li>
+<li>Hatton, Sir Christopher, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li>
+<li>Hatton Wall, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Hazlitt, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+<li>Henry II., <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li>
+<li>Henry VIII., <a href="#Page_11">11</a></li>
+<li>Herbert of Cherbury, Lord, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+<li>Herring, Bishop, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li>
+<li>High Street, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li>
+<li>Hockley Hole, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li>
+<li>Hogarth, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li>
+<li>Hoggarty, Haggart, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+<li>Holborn, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li>
+<li>Holborn Baths, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li>
+<li>Holborn, Borough of, <a href="#Page_1">1</a></li>
+<li>Holborn Bridge, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li>
+<li>Holborn Circus, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
+<li>Holborn Hill, <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li>
+<li>Holborn Music Hall, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li>
+<li>Holborn Restaurant, <a href="#Page_30">30</a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span></li>
+<li>Holborn Town Hall, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li>
+<li>Holborn Viaduct, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
+<li>Hom&oelig;opathic Hospital, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
+<li>Hoole, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+<li>Hospital for Paralysis, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li>
+<li>Hospital for Sick Children, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
+<li>Hyde, Chief Justice, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Inns of Court Hotel, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
+<li>Irving, Edward, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
+<li>Italian Hospital, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Johnson, Dr., <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li>
+<li>Jonson, Ben, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Kemble, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+<li>Kemble Street, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+<li>Kingsgate Street, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li>
+<li>Kingsway, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+<li>Kirkby, Bishop, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li>
+<li>Kirkby Street, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
+<li>Kneller, Sir Godfrey, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+<li>Kniveton, Lady Frances, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
+<li>Kynaston, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Lamb, Mary, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li>
+<li>Lamb's Conduit Street, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li>
+<li>Lawrence, Sir Thomas, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li>
+<li>Leather Lane, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Le Lane, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
+<li>Lenthall, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li>
+<li>L'Estrange, Roger, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li>
+<li>Lilly, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
+<li>Lincoln, Earl of, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>
+<li>Lincoln's Inn, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li>
+<li>Lincoln's Inn Fields, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
+<li>Lindsey House, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li>
+<li>Lisle, Viscount, <a href="#Page_11">11</a></li>
+<li>Little Queen Street, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+<li>Little Russell Street, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li>
+<li>Long Fields, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li>
+<li>Lord Chancellor's House, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li>
+<li>Lovelace, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
+<li>Lovell, Sir Thomas, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>
+<li>Lying-in Hospital, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Macaulay, Zachary, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li>
+<li>Mackworth, Dr. John, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
+<li>Manor House, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+<li>Marsden, William, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>
+<li>Marshlands, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>
+<li>Marvell, Andrew, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li>
+<li>Mathews, Charles, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+<li>Matilda, Queen, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li>
+<li>Maurice, Rev. F. D., <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li>
+<li>Mead, Dr., <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li>
+<li>Mercers' School, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
+<li>Meux's Brewery, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+<li>Middle Row, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
+<li>Milton, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li>
+<li>Monmouth Street, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
+<li>Montague House, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li>
+<li>More, Sir Thomas, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>
+<li>Morland, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li>
+<li>Morris, William, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li>
+<li>Mudie's Library, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Nelson, Robert, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li>
+<li>Newcastle House, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li>
+<li>New Compton Street, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
+<li>New Oxford Street, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li>
+<li>Nisbett, Canon, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
+<li>Nottingham, Earl of, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+<li>Novelty Theatre, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>O'Connell, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
+<li>Old Bell, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li>
+<li>"Old Bourne" <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li>
+<li>Old Curiosity Shop, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+<li>Onslow, Speaker, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+<li>Opie, John, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Pendrell, Richard, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li>
+<li>Pepys, <a href="#Page_26">26</a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span></li>
+<li>Pindar, Peter, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+<li>Portpool Lane, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li>
+<li>Portsmouth House, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+<li>Powis, Duke of, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li>
+<li>Powis House, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li>
+<li>Pugin, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Queen Square, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li>
+<li>Queen Street, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Raymond, Lord, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li>
+<li>Red Lion Square, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li>
+<li>Romilly, Sir S., <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li>
+<li>Rose, The, <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li>
+<li>Rosebery Avenue, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li>
+<li>Royal College of Surgeons, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+<li>Royal Mews, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li>
+<li>Royal Society, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li>
+<li>Russell Institution, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li>
+<li>Russell, Lord, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li>
+<li>Russell Square, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Sacheverell, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>
+<li>St. Andrew's Street, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
+<li>St. Giles's Burial-ground, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li>
+<li>St Giles's Hospital, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li>
+<li>St. Giles-in-the-Fields, Parish of, <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li>
+<li>St. James's Street, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li>
+<li>Sardinia Street, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+<li>Savage, Robert, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li>
+<li>Scrope's Inn, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li>
+<li>Serjeants' Inn, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li>
+<li>Seven Dials, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
+<li>Shaftesbury Avenue, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
+<li>Shakespeare, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li>
+<li>Shelley, Percy, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+<li>Sheridan, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+<li>Shirley, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li>
+<li>Shoe Lane, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
+<li>Short's Gardens, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+<li>Sidmouth, Viscount, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li>
+<li>Silver Street, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+<li>Sloane, Sir Hans, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+<li>Soane Museum, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li>
+<li>Southampton Buildings, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li>
+<li>Southampton House, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li>
+<li>Southampton Row, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+<li>Southampton Street, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+<li>Staple Inn, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>
+<li>Steele, Sir Richard, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+<li>Stiddolph Street, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
+<li>Stillingfleet, Bishop of Worcester, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>
+<li>Stratford, Lord, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li>
+<li>Strange, Sir Robert, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+<li>Stukeley, Dr., <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li>
+<li>Swan Distillery, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
+<li>Swan on the Hop, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Thackeray, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li>
+<li>Thanet House, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+<li>Thavie's Inn, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
+<li>Theobald's Road, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li>
+<li>Thomson, Bishop, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li>
+<li>Thurlow, Lord, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
+<li>Tonson, Jacob, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li>
+<li>Toten Hall, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+<li>Tottenham Court Road, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+<li>Turk's Head, The, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+<li>Turner, Sharon, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li>
+<li>Tyburn procession, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Vine Inn, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Walton, Izaak, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li>
+<li>Warburton, Bishop, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li>
+<li>Webster, John, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li>
+<li>Wedderburn, Alexander, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li>
+<li>Wesley, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li>
+<li>Whetstone Park, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li>
+<li>Whiston, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
+<li>Whitefield, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li>
+<li>White Hart, The, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+<li>White Horse Inn, <a href="#Page_50">50</a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span></li>
+<li>White Lion Street, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+<li>Wild House, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+<li>Wild Street, Great, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+<li>Wilkes, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li>
+<li>Woburn Square, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li>
+<li>Wolsey, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>
+<li>Working Men's College, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
+<li>Worlidge, Thomas, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+<li>Wren, Sir Christopher, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+<li>Wriothesley, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX"><li>Zinzendorf, Count, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+
+<h4>THE END</h4>
+
+<p class='center'>BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 800px;">
+<a href="images/image007.jpg"><img src="images/thumb_image007.jpg" width="800" height="617" alt="HOLBORN DISTRICT." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">HOLBORN DISTRICT.
+<br />
+Published by A. &amp; C. Black, London.</span>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<div style="border: dashed 1px;"><h3>Transcriber's Notes</h3>
+
+<p>The following errors in the original text have been corrected:</p>
+
+<ul><li>Page 89: In then became changed to It then became</li>
+
+<li>Page 103: Bambridge Street, 21 changed to Bainbridge Street, 21</li></ul>
+
+
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Holborn and Bloomsbury, by 
+Sir Walter Besant and Geraldine Edith Mitton
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY ***
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+</body>
+</html>
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@@ -0,0 +1,3399 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Holborn and Bloomsbury, by
+Sir Walter Besant and Geraldine Edith Mitton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Holborn and Bloomsbury
+       The Fascination of London
+
+Author: Sir Walter Besant
+        Geraldine Edith Mitton
+
+Release Date: May 9, 2007 [EBook #21411]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  THE FASCINATION
+     OF LONDON
+
+HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY
+
+
+
+_IN THIS SERIES._
+
+Cloth, price 1s. 6d. net; leather, price 2s. net, each.
+
+
+THE STRAND DISTRICT.
+
+By Sir WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON.
+
+
+WESTMINSTER.
+
+By Sir WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON.
+
+
+HAMPSTEAD AND MARYLEBONE.
+
+By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT.
+
+
+CHELSEA.
+
+By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT.
+
+
+KENSINGTON.
+
+By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT.
+
+
+HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY.
+
+By Sir WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: STAPLE INN, HOLBORN BARS]
+
+
+
+
+The Fascination of London
+
+HOLBORN AND
+BLOOMSBURY
+
+BY
+SIR WALTER BESANT
+AND
+G. E. MITTON
+
+LONDON
+ADAM & CHARLES BLACK
+1903
+
+
+
+
+PREFATORY NOTE
+
+
+A survey of London, a record of the greatest of all cities, that should
+preserve her history, her historical and literary associations, her
+mighty buildings, past and present, a book that should comprise all that
+Londoners love, all that they ought to know of their heritage from the
+past--this was the work on which Sir Walter Besant was engaged when he
+died.
+
+As he himself said of it: "This work fascinates me more than anything
+else I've ever done. Nothing at all like it has ever been attempted
+before. I've been walking about London for the last thirty years, and I
+find something fresh in it every day."
+
+Sir Walter's idea was that two of the volumes of his survey should
+contain a regular and systematic perambulation of London by different
+persons, so that the history of each parish should be complete in
+itself. This was a very original feature in the great scheme, and one in
+which he took the keenest interest. Enough has been done of this
+section to warrant its issue in the form originally intended, but in the
+meantime it is proposed to select some of the most interesting of the
+districts and publish them as a series of booklets, attractive alike to
+the local inhabitant and the student of London, because much of the
+interest and the history of London lie in these street associations.
+
+The difficulty of finding a general title for the series was very great,
+for the title desired was one that would express concisely the undying
+charm of London--that is to say, the continuity of her past history with
+the present times. In streets and stones, in names and palaces, her
+history is written for those who can read it, and the object of the
+series is to bring forward these associations, and to make them plain.
+The solution of the difficulty was found in the words of the man who
+loved London and planned the great scheme. The work "fascinated" him,
+and it was because of these associations that it did so. These links
+between past and present in themselves largely constitute The
+Fascination of London.
+
+G. E. M.
+
+
+
+
+HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY
+
+
+The district to be treated in this volume includes a good many
+parishes--namely, St. Giles-in-the-Fields; St. George, Bloomsbury; St.
+George the Martyr; St Andrew, Holborn; Hatton Garden, Saffron Hill;
+besides the two famous Inns of Court, Lincoln's and Gray's, and the
+remaining buildings of several Inns of Chancery, now diverted from their
+former uses. Nearly all the district is included in the new Metropolitan
+Borough of Holborn, which itself differs but little from the
+Parliamentary borough known as the Holborn Division of Finsbury. Part of
+St. Andrew's parish lies outside both of these, and is within the
+Liberties of the City. The transition from Holborn borough to the City
+will be noted in crossing the boundary. As it is proposed to mention the
+parishes in passing through them, but not to describe their exact
+limitations in the body of the book, the boundaries of the parishes are
+given concisely for reference on p. 100.
+
+Kingsway, the new street from the Strand to Holborn, cuts through the
+selected district. It begins in a crescent, with one end near St.
+Clement's Church, and the other near Wellington Street. From the site of
+the Olympic Theatre it runs north, crossing High Holborn at Little Queen
+Street, and continuing northward through Southampton Row. A skeleton
+outline of its course is given on p. 28. This street runs roughly north
+and south throughout the district selected, and dividing it east and
+west is the great highway, which begins as New Oxford Street, becomes
+High Holborn, and continues as Holborn and Holborn Viaduct.
+
+The tradition that Holborn is so named after a brook--the Old
+Bourne--which rose on the hill, and flowed in an easterly direction into
+the Fleet River, cannot be sustained by any evidence or any indications
+of the bed of a former stream. Stow speaks positively as to the
+existence of this stream, which, he says, had in his time long been
+stopped up. Now, the old streams of London have left traces either in
+the lanes which once formed their bed, as Marylebone Lane and Gardener's
+Lane, Westminster, or their courses, having been accurately known, have
+been handed on from one generation to another. We may therefore dismiss
+the supposed stream of the "Old Bourne" as not proven. On the other
+hand, there have been found many springs and wells in various parts of
+Holborn, as under Furnival's Inn, which may have seemed to Stow proof
+enough of the tradition. The name of Holborn is probably derived from
+the bourne or brook in the "Hollow"--_i.e._, the Fleet River, across
+which this great roadway ran. The way is marked in Aggas's map of the
+sixteenth century as a country road between fields, though, strangely
+enough, it is recorded that it was paved in 1417, a very ancient date.
+Malcolm in 1803 calls it "an irregular long street, narrow and
+inconvenient, at the north end of Fleet Market, but winding from Shoe
+Lane up the hill westward."
+
+Holborn Bars stood a little to the west of Brooke Street, and close by
+was Middle Row, an island of houses opposite the end of Gray's Inn Road,
+which formed a great impediment to the traffic. The Bars were the
+entrance to the City, and here a toll of a penny or twopence was exacted
+from non-freemen who entered the City with carts or coaches.
+
+The George and Blue Boar stood on the south side of Holborn, opposite
+Red Lion Street, and it is said that it was here that Charles I.'s
+letter disclosing his intention to destroy Cromwell and Ireton was
+intercepted by the latter; but this is very doubtful.
+
+On Holborn Hill was the Black Swan Inn, which has been described as one
+of the most ancient and magnificent places for the reception of
+travellers in London, and which Dr. Stukeley, with fervent imagination,
+declared dated from the Conquest. Another ancient inn in Holborn was
+called the Rose. It was from here that the poet Taylor started to join
+Charles I. in the Isle of Wight, of which journey he says,
+
+    "We took one coach, two coachmen, and four horses,
+    And merrily from London made our courses;
+    We wheeled the top of the heavy hill called Holborn,
+    Up which hath been full many a sinful soul borne,"
+
+which is quoted merely to show that there is a possible rhyme to
+Holborn.
+
+Pennant says also there was a hospital for the poor in Holborn, and a
+cell of the House of Clugny in France, but does not indicate their
+whereabouts. Before the building of the Viaduct in 1869 (see p. 54),
+there was a steep and toilsome descent up and down the valley of the
+Fleet. This was sometimes called "the Heavy Hill," as in the verse
+already quoted, and in consequence of the melancholy processions which
+frequently passed from Newgate bound Tyburn-wards, "riding in a cart up
+the Heavy Hill" became a euphemism for being hanged. From Farringdon
+Street to Fetter Lane was Holborn Hill, and Holborn proper extended from
+Fetter Lane to Brooke Street.
+
+In James II.'s reign Oates and Dangerfield suffered the punishment of
+being whipped at the cart's tail all the way along Holborn.
+
+There were Bridewell Bridge, Fleet Bridge, Fleet Lane Bridge, and
+Holborn Bridge across the Fleet River. Holborn Bridge was the most
+northerly of the four. It was a bridge of stone, serving for passengers
+from the west to the City by way of Newgate. The whole thoroughfare of
+Oxford Street and Holborn is the result of the diversion of the north
+highway into the City from the route by Westminster Marshes.
+
+The antiquities of Holborn and its streets north and south are not
+connected with the trade or with the municipal history of London. On the
+other hand, the associations of this group of streets are full of
+interest. If we take the south side of the street, we find ourselves
+walking past Shoe Lane, St. Andrew's Church, Thavies' Inn, Fetter Lane,
+Staple Inn, Barnard's Inn, Chancery Lane, Great and Little Turnstiles,
+Little Queen Street, Drury Lane, and St. Giles's. On the north side we
+pass Field Lane, Ely Place, Hatton Garden, Brooke Street, Furnival's
+Inn, Gray's Inn, Red Lion Street, and Tottenham Court Road. All these
+will be found described in detail further on. Of eminent residents in
+Holborn itself, Cunningham mentions Gerarde, the author of the "Herbal";
+Sir Kenelm Digby; Milton, who lived for a time in one of the houses on
+the south side, looking upon Lincoln's Inn Fields; and Dr. Johnson, who
+lived at the sign of the Golden Anchor, Holborn Bars. There were also
+the Bishops of Ely, Sir Christopher Hatton, Francis Bacon, Sir Thomas
+More, Charles Dickens, Fulke Greville, Thomas Chatterton, Lord Russell,
+Dr. Sacheverell, and many others.
+
+It is necessary now, however, to leave off generalization, and to begin
+with a detailed account of the parishes which fall within the district;
+of these, St. Giles-in-the-Fields is the most interesting.
+
+
+ST. GILES-IN-THE-FIELDS.
+
+The name of the parish is derived from the hospital which stood on the
+site of the present parish church, and was dedicated to the Greek saint
+St. Giles. It was at first known as St. Giles of the Lepers, but when
+the hospital was demolished became St. Giles-in-the-Fields.
+
+In a plan dated 1600 St. Giles's is shown to consist largely of open
+fields. The buildings, which before the dissolution had belonged to the
+hospital, form a group about the site of the church. A few more
+buildings run along the north side of the present Broad Street. There
+are one or two at the north end of Drury Lane, and Drury House is at
+the south end. Southampton House, in the fields to the north, is marked,
+but the parish is otherwise open ground. In spite of many edicts to
+restrain the increase of houses, early in the reign of James I. the
+meadows began to be built upon, and, though a little checked during the
+Commonwealth, after the Restoration the building proceeded rapidly,
+stimulated by the new square at Lincoln's Inn Fields then being carried
+out by Inigo Jones. To St. Giles's may be attributed the distinction of
+having originated the Great Plague, which broke out in an alley at the
+north end of Drury Lane. Several times before this there had been
+smaller outbreaks, which had resulted in the building of a pest-house.
+Even after this check the parish continued to increase rapidly, and by
+the early part of the last century was a byword for all that was squalid
+and filthy. Its rookeries and slums are thus described in a newspaper
+cutting of 1845: "All around are poverty and wretchedness; the streets
+and alleys are rank with the filth of half a century; the windows are
+half of them broken, or patched with rags and paper, and when whole are
+begrimed with dirt and smoke; little brokers' shops abound, filled with
+lumber, the odour of which taints even that tainted atmosphere; the
+pavement and carriage-way swarm with pigs, poultry, and ragged
+children.... But in the space called the Dials itself the scene is far
+different. There at least rise splendid buildings with stuccoed fronts
+and richly-ornamented balustrades.... These are the gin-palaces."
+Naturally, among so much poverty gin-palaces and public-houses abounded.
+It is curious to note how many of Hogarth's pictures of misery and vice
+were drawn from St. Giles's. "Noon" has St. Giles's Church in the
+background, while his "Gin Lane" shows the neighbouring church of St.
+George, Bloomsbury; the scene of his "Harlot's Progress" is Drury Lane,
+and the idle apprentice is caught when wanted for murder in a cellar in
+St. Giles's.
+
+The gallows were in this parish from about 1413 until they were removed
+to Tyburn, and then the terrible Tyburn procession passed through St.
+Giles's, and halted at the great gate of the hospital, and later at the
+public-house called The Bowl, described more fully hereafter. From very
+early times St. Giles's was notorious for its taverns. The Croche Hose
+(Crossed Stockings), another tavern, was situated at the corner of the
+marshlands, and in Edward I.'s reign belonged to the cook of the
+hospital; the crossed stockings, red and white, were adopted as the sign
+of the hosiers. Besides these, there were numerous other taverns dating
+from many years back, including the Swan on the Hop, Holborn; White
+Hart, north-east of Drury Lane; the Rose, already mentioned. In the
+parish also were various houses of entertainment, of which the most
+notorious was the Hare and Hounds, formerly Beggar in the Bush, which
+was kept by one Joe Banks in 1844, and was the resort of all classes.
+This was in Buckridge Street, over which New Oxford Street now runs. In
+the last sixty years the face of the parish has been greatly changed.
+The first demolition of a rookery of vice and squalor took place in
+1840, when New Oxford Street was driven through Slumland. Dyott (once
+George) Street, Church Lane, Buckridge and Bainbridge, Charlotte and
+Plumtree, were among the most notorious streets thus wholly or partially
+removed.
+
+In 1844 many wretched houses were demolished, and in 1855 Shaftesbury
+Avenue drove another wedge into the slums to let in light and air. There
+are poor and wretched courts in St. Giles's yet, but civilization is
+making its softening influence felt even here, and though cases of
+Hooliganism in broad daylight still occur, they are less and less
+frequent.
+
+So much for a brief history of the parish. Its soil was from very early
+times damp and marshy. To the south of the hospital was a stretch of
+ground called Marshlands, probably at one time a pond. Great ditches and
+fosses cut up the ground. The most important of these was Blemund's
+Ditch, which divided the parish from that of Bloomsbury. This is
+supposed to have been an ancient line of fortification. Besides this, a
+ditch traversed the marshlands above mentioned, another encompassed the
+croft lying by the north gate of the hospital, and there were several
+others of less importance.
+
+The Hospital of St. Giles was the earliest foundation of its kind in
+London, if we except St. James's Hospital. Stow sums it up thus: "St.
+Giles-in-the-Fields was an hospital for leprous people out of the City
+of London and shire of Middlesex, founded by Matilde the Queen, wife to
+Henry I., and suppressed by King Henry VIII." The date of foundation is
+given by Leland and Malcolm as 1101, though Stow and others give 1117,
+which was the year before the foundress died. Before this time this part
+of London had apparently been included in the great estate of Rugmere,
+which belonged to St. Paul's.
+
+Matilda gave the ground, and endowed the hospital with the magnificent
+sum of L3 per annum! Her foundation provided for forty lepers, one
+chaplain, one clerk, and one servant. Henry II. confirmed all privileges
+and gifts which had accrued to the hospital, and added to them himself.
+Parton says, "His liberality ranks him as a second founder." During
+succeeding reigns the hospital grew in wealth and importance. In Henry
+III.'s reign Pope Alexander issued a confirmatory Bull, but the charity
+had become a refuge for decayed hangers-on at Court who were not
+lepers. This abuse was prohibited by the King's decree. In Edward III.'s
+reign the first downward step was taken, for he made the hospital a cell
+to Burton St. Lazar. The brethren apparently rebelled, refusing to admit
+the visitation of the Archbishop of Canterbury, and destroying many
+valuable documents and records belonging to the hospital. Two centuries
+later King Henry VIII. desired the lands and possessions of St. Giles's,
+and with him to desire was to acquire.
+
+The hospital was thus shorn of the greater part of its wealth, retaining
+only the church (not the manor) at Feltham (one of its earliest gifts),
+the hospital estates at Edmonton, in the City of London, and in the
+various parishes in the suburbs; and in St. Giles's parish the actual
+ground it stood on, the Pittance Croft, and a few minor places. But even
+this remnant came into the possession of the rapacious King two years
+later, at the dissolution of the monasteries, when Burton St. Lazar
+itself fell into the tyrant's hands. Henry held these for six years,
+then granted both to John Dudley, Viscount Lisle, Lord High Admiral.
+From the time of the dissolution the hospital became a manor.
+
+In the earliest charters the head of the hospital is styled Chaplain,
+but not Master. The first Master mentioned is in 1212, and after this
+the title was regularly used. The government was vested in the Master
+or Warden and other officers, together with a certain number of sound
+brethren and sisters--and in certain cases lepers themselves--who formed
+a chapter. "They assembled in chapter, had a common seal, held courts as
+lords of the manor."[1] There were also guardians or custodians, who did
+not reside in the precincts of the hospital, and these seem to have been
+chosen from the most eminent citizens; they formed no part of the
+original scheme.
+
+[1] "Some Account of the Hospital and Parish of St. Giles-in-the-Fields,"
+1822, by John Parton.
+
+[Illustration: SEAL OF ST. GILES'S HOSPITAL.]
+
+The sisters appear to have been nurses, for there is no mention made of
+any leprous sister. The chapel of the hospital appears from King Henry
+II.'s charter to have been built on the site of some older parochial
+church. The Bull of Pope Alexander mentions that the hospital wall
+enclosed eight acres. Within this triangular space, which is at present
+roughly bounded by the High Street, Charing Cross Road, and Shaftesbury
+Avenue, was one central building or mansion for the lepers, several
+subordinate buildings, the chapel, and the gate-house. Whether the
+number of lepers was reduced when the hospital possessions were
+curtailed we are not told. After the hospital buildings fell into the
+hands of Lord Dudley they underwent many changes. The principal building
+he converted into a mansion for his own use; this was the manor-house.
+It stood between the present Denmark Street and Lloyd's Court, and its
+site is occupied by a manufactory. After two years Lord Dudley obtained
+from the King license to transfer all his newly-gained estates to Sir
+Wymonde Carew, but there seems reason to suppose that Lord Dudley
+remained in possession of the manor-house until his attainder in the
+reign of Queen Mary, because the manor then reverted to the Crown, and
+was regranted. Clinch gets out of this difficulty by supposing Lord
+Dudley to have parted with his estates and retained the manor, but in
+the deed of license for exchange all his "mansion place and capital
+house, late the house of the dissolved hospital of St. Giles in the
+Fields," is especially mentioned. It is possible that Sir Wymonde leased
+it again to the Dudley family.
+
+Among the many subsequent holders of the manor we find the name of Sir
+Walter Cope, who bought the Manor of Kensington in 1612, and through
+whose only child, Isabel, it passed by marriage to Sir Henry Rich,
+created Earl of Holland. The Manor of St. Giles was in the possession of
+the Crown again in Charles II.'s reign, when Alice Leigh, created by him
+Duchess of Dudley, lived in the manor-house. This Duchess made many
+gifts to the church, among which was a rectory-house.
+
+The Church of St. Giles at present standing is certainly the third, if
+not the fourth, which has been upon the same site. As mentioned above,
+there is reason to believe from Henry II.'s charter that a sacred
+building of some sort stood here before the leper chapel. The chapel had
+a chapter-house attached, and seems to have been a well-cared-for
+building. There were several chantry chapels and a high altar dedicated
+to St. Giles. St. Giles's in the earlier charters is spoken of as a
+village, not a parish, but there is little doubt that after the
+establishment of the hospital its chapel was used as a parish church by
+the villagers. There was probably a wall screening off the lepers. The
+first church of which any illustration is preserved has a curious
+tower, capped by a round dome. The view of this church, dated 1560, is
+taken after the dissolution of the hospital, when it had become entirely
+parochial. In 1617 the quaint old tower was taken down, and replaced by
+another, but only six years after the whole church was rebuilt. A view
+of this in 1718 gives a very long battlemented body in two stories, with
+a square tower surmounted by an open belfry and vane. It possessed
+remarkably fine stained-glass windows and a handsome screen presented by
+the Duchess of Dudley.
+
+This second church did not last very long, for in Queen Anne's reign the
+parishioners petitioned that it should be rebuilt as one of the fifty
+new churches, being then in a state of decay. The present church, which
+is very solid, and has dignity of outline, was the work of Flitcroft,
+and was opened April 14, 1734. The steeple is 160 feet high, with a
+rustic pedestal, a Doric story, an octagonal tower, and spire. The
+basement is of rusticated Portland stone, of which the church is built,
+and quoins of the same material decorate the windows and angles within.
+It follows the lines of the period, with hardly any chancel, wide
+galleries on three sides standing on piers, from which columns rise to
+the elliptical ceiling. The part of the roof over the galleries is
+bayed at right angles to the curve of the central part. Monuments hang
+on the walls and columns, and occupy every available space. By far the
+most striking of these is the full-length figure of a woman in repose
+which is set on a broad window-seat. This is the monument of Lady
+Frances Kniveton, daughter of Alice Leigh, Duchess of Dudley. The
+daughter's tomb remains a memorial of her mother's benefactions to the
+parish. The monument of Andrew Marvell, a plain black marble slab, is on
+the north wall. Marvell was buried in the church "under the pews in the
+south side," but the present monument was not erected until 1764,
+eighty-six years after his death, owing to the opposition of the
+incumbent of the church. The inscription on it slightly varies from that
+intended for the original monument. Besides a handsome brass cross on
+the chancel floor to the Rector, Canon Nisbett, a tomb in form of a
+Roman altar, designed by Inigo Jones, and commemorating George Chapman,
+the translator of Homer, and a touching monument in the lobby to "John
+Belayse," put up by his two daughters, there is nothing further worth
+seeing.
+
+The graveyard which surrounds the church is supposed to have been the
+ancient interment-ground of the hospital. The first mention of it in the
+parish books is in 1628, when three cottages were pulled down to
+increase its size. It was enlarged again in 1666. Part of the old
+hospital wall enclosing it remained until 1630, when it fell down, and
+after the lapse of some time a new wall was built. In St. Giles's
+Churchyard were buried Lord Herbert of Cherbury, Shirley, Roger
+L'Estrange, Andrew Marvell, and Richard Pendrell, who assisted in
+Charles II.'s escape; his altar-tomb is easily seen near the east end of
+the church. By 1718 the graveyard had risen 8 feet, so that the church
+stood in a pit or well. The further burial-ground at St. Pancras was
+taken in 1805, and after that burials at St. Giles's were not very
+frequent. Pennant was one of the first to draw attention to the
+disgraceful overcrowding of the old graveyard. There seem to have been
+several gates into the churchyard with the right of private entry, one
+of which was used by the Duchess of Dudley. The most remarkable gate,
+however, was at the principal entrance to the churchyard, and was known
+as the Resurrection Gate, from an alto-relievo of the Last Day. This was
+erected about 1687, and was of red and brown brick. The composition of
+the relievo is said to have been borrowed, with alterations, from
+Michael Angelo's work on the same subject. In 1765 the north wall of the
+churchyard was taken down, and replaced by the present railing and
+coping. In 1800 the gate was removed, and replaced by the present
+Tuscan gate, in which the sculpture has been refixed. This stood at
+first on the site of the old one on the north of the churchyard, but was
+removed to the west side, where it at present stands in an unnoticeable
+and obscure position. It was probably placed there in the idea that the
+new road, Charing Cross Road, would run past.
+
+Denmark Street "fronts St. Giles Church and falls into Hog Lane, a fair
+broad street, with good houses well inhabited by gentry" (Strype).
+
+This description is no longer applicable. Denmark Place was once Dudley
+Court, and the house here with a garden was given by the Duchess of
+Dudley as a rectory for the parish. The Court or Row was built on the
+site of the house previous to 1722.
+
+Broad Street is one of the most ancient streets in the parish, and there
+were a few houses standing on the north side when the rest of the
+district was open ground. It was the main route westward for many
+centuries, until New Oxford Street was made.
+
+The procession from Newgate to Tyburn used to pass along Broad Street,
+and halt at the great gate of the hospital, in order that the condemned
+man might take his last draught of ale on earth. An enterprising
+publican set up a tavern near here in 1623, and called it the Bowl. He
+provided the ale free, and no doubt made much profit by the patronage
+he received thereby. The exact site of the tavern was in Bowl Yard,
+which ran into Broad Street near where Endell Street now is. Among
+Cruikshank's well-known drawings is a series illustrating Jack
+Sheppard's progress to the gallows.
+
+The parish almshouses were built in the wide part of Broad Street on
+ground granted by Lord Southampton, but were removed as an impediment to
+traffic in 1783 to the Coal Yard, near the north of Drury Lane. A row of
+little alleys--Salutation, Lamb's, Crown, and Cock--formerly extended
+southward over the present workhouse site. There are still one or two
+small entries both north and south. The immense yard of a well-known
+brewery fills up a large part of the south side, and a large iron and
+hardware manufactory on the north gives a certain manufacturing aspect
+to the street. The Holborn Municipal Baths are in a fine new building on
+the south side.
+
+About High Street, which joins Broad Street at its west end, there is
+surely less to say than of any other High Street in London. In 1413 the
+gallows were set up at the corner where it meets Tottenham Court Road.
+But even previously to this executions had taken place at Tyburn, and
+soon Tyburn became the recognised place of execution. Sir John
+Oldcastle, Lord Cobham, is the most notable name among the victims who
+suffered at St. Giles. He was hung in chains and roasted to death over a
+slow fire at this spot as a Lollard.
+
+After they had been removed from the end of Broad Street, to make way
+for the almshouses, the parish pound and cage stood on the site of the
+gallows until 1765. There was here also a large circular stone, where
+the charity boys were whipped to make them remember the parish bounds.
+
+The space to the north of the High and Broad Streets was previously a
+notorious rookery. Dyott Street, which still exists, though cut in half,
+had a most unenviable reputation. The Maidenhead Inn, which stood at the
+south-east corner of this, was a favourite resort for mealmen and
+country waggoners. There was in this street also a tavern called the
+Turk's Head, where Haggart Hoggarty planned the murder of Mr. Steele on
+Hounslow Heath in 1802. Walford mentions also Rat's Castle, a rendezvous
+for all the riff-raff of the neighbourhood. Dyott Street was named after
+an influential parishioner of Charles II.'s time, who had a house here.
+It was later called George Street, but has reverted to the original
+name.
+
+South of Great Russell Street there were formerly Bannister's Alley and
+Eagle and Child Yard running northwards. From the former of these
+continued Church Lane, to which Maynard Lane ran parallel. Bainbridge,
+Buckridge, and Church Streets ran east and westward. Of these Bainbridge
+remains, a long, narrow alley bounded by the brewery wall. Mayhew says
+that here "were found some of the most intricate and dangerous places in
+this low locality."
+
+The part of the parish lying to the north, including Bedford Square,
+must be for the present left (see p. 98), while we turn southwards.
+
+New Compton Street is within the former precincts of the hospital. When
+first made it was called Stiddolph Street, after Sir Richard Stiddolph,
+and the later name was taken from that of Sir Frances Compton. Strype
+says, "All this part was very meanly built ... and greatly inhabited by
+French, and of the poorer sort," a character it retains to this day.
+
+Shaftesbury Avenue, opened in 1885, has obliterated Monmouth Street,
+named after the Duke of Monmouth, whose house was in Soho Square (see
+_The Strand_, this series). Monmouth Street was notorious for its
+old-clothes shops, and is the subject of one of the "Sketches by Boz."
+Further back still it was called Le Lane, and is under that name
+mentioned among the hospital possessions.
+
+The north end of Shaftesbury Avenue is in the adjoining parish of St.
+George's, Bloomsbury, but must for sequence' sake be described here. A
+French Protestant chapel, consecrated 1845, which is the lineal
+descendant of the French Church of the Savoy, stands on the west side.
+Near at hand is a French girls' school. Further north is a Baptist
+chapel, with two noticeable pointed towers and a central wheel window.
+Bedford Chapel formerly stood on the north side of this. In the lower
+half of the Avenue there are several buildings of interest. The first of
+these, on the east side, is for the medical and surgical relief of all
+foreigners who speak French. Below this is a chapel belonging to the
+Baptists, and further southward a working lads' home, established in
+1843, for homeless lads at work in London. In connection with it are
+various homes in the country, both for boys and girls, and two training
+ships, the _Arethusa_ and _Chichester_.
+
+All the ground to the south of Shaftesbury Avenue was anciently, if not
+actually a pond, at all events very marshy ground, and was called
+Meershelands, or Marshlands. It was subsequently known as Cock and Pye
+Fields, from the Cock and Pye public-house, which is supposed to have
+been situated at the spot where Little St. Andrew Street, West Street,
+and Castle Street now meet. The date at which this name first appeared
+is uncertain; it is met with in the parish books after 1666. In the
+reign of William III. a Mr. Neale took the ground, and transformed the
+great ditch which crossed it into a sewer, preparatory to the building
+of Seven Dials. The name of this notorious place has been connected with
+degradation and misery, but at first it was considered rather an
+architectural wonder. Evelyn, in his diary, October 5, 1694, says: "I
+went to see the building beginning near St. Giles, where seven streets
+make a star from a Doric pillar placed in the middle of a circular area,
+said to be built by Mr. Neale." Gay also refers to the central column in
+his "Trivia." The column had really only six dial faces, two streets
+converging toward one. In the open space on which it stood was a
+pillory, and the culprits who stood here were often most brutally
+stoned. One John Waller, charged with perjury, was killed in this manner
+in 1732.
+
+In 1773 the column was taken down in a search for imaginary treasure. It
+was set up again in 1822 on Weybridge Green as a memorial to the Duchess
+of York, who died 1820. The dial was not replaced, and was used as a
+stepping-stone at the Ship Inn at Weybridge; it still lies on one side
+of the Green. The streets of Seven Dials attained a very unenviable
+reputation, and were the haunt of all that was vicious and bad. Terrible
+accounts of the overcrowding and consequent immorality come down to us
+from the newspaper echoes of the earlier part of the nineteenth
+century. The opening up of the new thoroughfares of New Oxford Street,
+Shaftesbury Avenue, and Charing Cross Road, have done much, but the
+neighbourhood is still a slum. The seven streets remain in their
+starlike shape, by name Great and Little White Lion Street, Great and
+Little St. Andrew Street, Great and Little Earl Street, and Queen
+Street.
+
+Short's Gardens was in 1623 really a garden, and a little later than
+that date was acquired by a man named Dudley Short.
+
+Betterton Street was until comparatively recently called Brownlow, from
+Sir John Brownlow of Belton, who had a house here in Charles II.'s time.
+The street is now, to use a favourite expression of Stow's, "better
+built than inhabited," for the row of brick houses of no very squalid
+type are inhabited by the very poor.
+
+Endell Street was built in 1844, at the time of the erection of the
+workhouse. In it are the National Schools, a Protestant Swiss chapel,
+and an entrance to the public baths and wash-houses, to the south of
+which rise the towers of the workhouse. Christ Church is hemmed in by
+the workhouse, having an outlet only on the street. The church was
+consecrated in 1845. In Short's Gardens is the Lying-in Hospital, the
+oldest institution of the kind in England. On the west side, between
+Castle Street and Short's Gardens, the remains of an ancient bath were
+discovered at what was once No. 3, Belton Street, now 23 and 25, Endell
+Street. Tradition wildly asserts that this was used by Queen Anne.
+Fragments of it still remain in the room used for iron lumber, for the
+premises are in the occupation of an iron merchant, but the water has
+long since ceased to flow.
+
+Drury Lane has been in great part described in _The Strand_, which see,
+p. 97. The Coal Yard at the north-east end, where Nell Gwynne was born,
+is now Goldsmith Street. Pit Place, on the west of Great Wild Street,
+derives its name from the cockpit or theatre, the original of the Drury
+Lane Theatre, which stood here. The cockpit was built previous to 1617,
+for in that year an incensed mob destroyed it, and tore all the dresses.
+It was afterwards known as the Phoenix Theatre. At one time it seems
+to have been used as a school, though this may very well have been at
+the same time as it fulfilled its legitimate functions. Betterton and
+Kynaston both made their first public appearance here. The actual date
+of the theatre's demolition is not known. Parton judges it to have been
+at the time of the building of Wild, then Weld, Street. Its performances
+are described, 1642, as having degenerated into an inferior kind, and
+having been attended by inferior audiences.
+
+At the north-east end of Drury Lane is the site of the ancient hostelry,
+the White Hart. Here also was a stone cross, known as Aldewych Cross,
+for the lane was anciently the Via de Aldewych, and is one of the oldest
+roads in the parish; Saxon Ald = old, and Wych = a village, a name to be
+preserved in the new Crescent. It is difficult to understand, looking
+down Drury Lane to-day from Holborn, that this most mean and unlovely
+street was once a place of aristocratic resort--of gardens, great
+houses, and orchards. Here was Craven House, here was Clare House; here
+lived the Earl of Stirling, the Marquis of Argyll, and the Earl of
+Anglesey. Here lived for a time Nell Gwynne. Pepys says:
+
+"Saw pretty Nelly standing at her lodgings door in Drury Lane in her
+smock-sleeves and bodice, looking upon one. She seemed a mighty pretty
+creature."
+
+The Lane fell into disrepute early in the eighteenth century. The
+"saints of Drury Lane," the "drabs of Drury Lane," the starving poets of
+Drury Lane, are freely ridiculed by the poets of that time.
+
+    "'Nine years!' cries he, who high in Drury Lane,
+    Lull'd by soft zephyrs through the broken pane,
+    Rhymes ere he wakes, and prints before term ends,
+    Obliged by hunger and request of friends."
+
+The boundary of St. Giles's parish runs down Drury Lane between Long
+Acre and Great Queen Street. Of the last of these Strype says: "It is a
+street graced with a goodly row of large uniform houses on the south
+side, but on the north side is indifferent." The street was begun in the
+early years of the seventeenth century, but the building spread over a
+long time, so that we find the "goodly row of houses" on the south side
+to have been built by Webb, a pupil of Inigo Jones, about 1646. A number
+of celebrated people lived in Great Queen Street. The first Lord Herbert
+of Cherbury had a house on the south side at the corner of Great Wild
+Street; here he died in 1648. Sir Thomas Fairfax, the Parliamentary
+General, lived here; also Sir Heneage Finch, created Earl of Nottingham;
+Sir Godfrey Kneller, when he moved from Covent Garden; Thomas Worlidge,
+the portrait-painter, and afterwards, in the same house, Hoole, the
+translator of Dante and Ariosto; Sir Robert Strange, the engraver; John
+Opie, the artist; Wolcott, better known as Peter Pindar, who was buried
+at St. Paul's, Covent Garden. Sheridan is also said to have lived here,
+and it would be conveniently near Drury Lane Theatre, which was under
+his management from 1776.
+
+[Illustration: KINGSWAY.]
+
+On the south side of the street are the Freemasons' Hall, built
+originally in 1775, and the Freemasons' Tavern, erected subsequently.
+Both have been rebuilt, and the hall, having been recently repainted,
+looks at the time of writing startlingly new. Near it are two of the
+original old houses, all that are left with the pilasters and carved
+capitals which are so sure a sign of Inigo Jones's influence.
+
+On the north side of the street is the Novelty Theatre.
+
+Great and Little Wild Streets are called respectively Old and New Weld
+Streets by Strype. Weld House stood on the site of the present Wild
+Court, and was during the reign of James II. occupied by the Spanish
+Embassy. In Great Wild Street Benjamin Franklin worked as a journeyman
+printer.
+
+Kemble and Sardinia were formerly Prince's and Duke's Streets. The
+latter contains some very old houses, and a chapel used by the Roman
+Catholics. This is said to be the oldest foundation now in the hands of
+the Roman Catholics in London. It was built in 1648, and was the object
+of virulent attack during the Gordon Riots; the exterior is singularly
+plain. Sardinia Street communicates with Lincoln's Inn Fields by a heavy
+and quaint archway.
+
+Even in Strype's time Little Queen Street was "a place pestered with
+coaches," a reputation which, curiously enough, it still retains, the
+heavy traffic of the King's Cross omnibuses passing through it. Trinity
+Church is in a late decorative style, with ornamental pinnacles, flying
+buttresses, and two deeply-recessed porches. Within it is a very plain,
+roomlike structure. The church is on the site of a house in which lived
+the Lambs, and where Mary Lamb in a fit of insanity murdered her mother.
+The Holborn Restaurant forms part of the side of this street; this is a
+very gorgeous building, and within is a very palace of modern luxury. It
+stands on the site formerly occupied by the Holborn Casino or Dancing
+Saloon.
+
+Little Queen Street will be wiped out by the broad new thoroughfare from
+the Strand to Holborn to be called Kingsway (see plan).
+
+Gate Street was formerly Little Princes Street. The present name is
+derived from the gate or carriage-entrance to Lincoln's Inn Fields.
+
+In Strype's map half of Whetstone Park is called by its present title,
+and the western half is Phillips Rents. He mentions it as "once famous
+for its infamous and vicious inhabitants."
+
+Great and Little Turnstile were so named from the turning stiles which
+in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries stood at their north ends to
+prevent the cattle straying from Lincoln's Inn Fields. The Holborn
+Music-hall in Little Turnstile was originally a Nonconformist chapel.
+After 1840 it served as a hall, lectures, etc., being given by
+free-thinkers, and in 1857 was adapted to its present purpose.
+
+LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS.--All the ground on which the present square is
+built formed part of Fickett's Field, which was anciently the
+jousting-place of the Knights Templars. A curious petition of the reign
+of Edward III. shows us that then it was a favourite recreation-ground
+or promenade for clerks, apprentices, students, as well as the citizens.
+In this petition a complaint is made that one Roger Leget had laid
+caltrappes or engines of iron in a trench, to the danger of those who
+walked in the fields. Inigo Jones was entrusted by King James I. to form
+a square of houses which should be worthy of so fine a situation. Before
+this time it appears that there had been one or two irregular buildings.
+Inigo Jones conceived the curious idea of giving his square the exact
+size of the Great Pyramid of Egypt, and it is accordingly the largest
+square in London. But when he had completed the west side only, the
+unsettled state of the country hindered further progress, and for many
+years the land lay waste, and was unenclosed save by wooden posts and
+rails; during this period it was the daily and nightly haunt of all the
+beggars, rogues, pickpockets, wrestlers, and vile vagrants in London.
+Gay thus speaks of it:
+
+    "Where Lincoln's Inn, wide space, is rail'd around,
+    Cross not with venturous step; there oft is found
+    The lurking thief, who, while the daylight shone,
+    Made the walls echo with his begging tone:
+    That crutch, which late compassion moved, shall wound
+    Thy bleeding head, and fell thee to the ground.
+    Though thou art tempted by the linkman's call,
+    Yet trust him not along the lonely wall;
+    In the midway he'll quench the flaming brand,
+    And share the booty with the pilfering band.
+    Still keep the public streets where oily rays,
+    Shot from the crystal lamp, o'erspread the ways."
+
+At this time three fields are mentioned as being included in the
+square--namely, Purse Field, Fickett's Field, and Cap Field. In 1657 the
+inhabitants made an agreement with Lincoln's Inn, to whom some of the
+rights of the Templars seem to have descended (Parton), as to the
+completion of the square. But even after the two further sides had been
+added, the centre seems to have been left in a disorderly and pestilent
+state, and it was not until 1735 that the place was properly laid out.
+In Strype's map of 1720 the sides are marked Newman's Row North, the
+Arch Row West, Portugal Row South, and the wall of Lincoln's Inn
+completes the fourth side. Strype speaks of the first two as being of
+large houses, generally taken by the nobility and gentry. The historical
+event of prominence connected with the centre of the square is the
+execution of William, Lord Russell, which took place here in 1683, on
+accusation of high treason and complicity in the Rye House Plot. He was
+beheaded in Lincoln's Inn Fields, lest the mob should rise and rescue
+him were he conveyed to the more public Tower Hill. In spite of his
+defiance of lawful authority, Russell's name has always been regarded as
+that of a patriot. He and Algernon Sydney are remembered as
+single-minded and high-souled men.
+
+Many other executions were held in those fields, notably those of
+Babington and his accomplices in 1586, fourteen in all. They were
+"hanged, bowelled, and quartered, on a stage or scaffold of timber
+strongly made for that purpose, even in the place where they used to
+meet and conferre of their traitorous purposes." At present the centre
+of the square forms a charming garden, open free to the public, with
+fine plane-trees shading grass plots not too severely trimmed, and
+flocks of opal-hued pigeons add a touch of bird-life. It is true the
+grass is railed in, but the railings are not obtrusive, and do not
+interfere with the pleasure of those who sit on the seats or walk under
+the trees. Here is assuredly one of the places where we can most feel
+the fascination of London as we contrast the present with the past.
+
+On the north side is the Inns of Court Hotel, a massive pile faced with
+stone, and with a portico of polished granite columns. This is on the
+site of an ancient hostelry in Holborn, the George and Blue Boar, a
+famous coaching inn (see p. 3).
+
+The Soane Museum is further westward, and is differentiated from two
+similarly built neighbours by a slightly projecting frontage. It was the
+former residence of Sir John Soane, who left his collection to the
+nation. There are many valuable pictures, as well as curious and
+interesting objects. The museum is open free to the public on Tuesday,
+Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday.
+
+On the west side of the square, near Queen Street, stands a very solid
+mansion, known first as Powis, then as Newcastle House. The footway in
+Great Queen Street runs under an arcade on the north side of this house,
+which was built by the first Marquis of Powis, created Duke of Powis by
+James II., whom he followed into exile, and bought in 1705 by Holles,
+Duke of Newcastle, whose nephew, who led the Pelham Administration under
+George II., inherited it. Further south on the same side is Lindsey
+House, a large building with pilasters; this was built by Robert Bertie,
+Earl of Lindsey, and was later called Ancaster House. It was described
+by Hatton as a handsome building, with six spacious brick piers before
+it, surmounted by vases and with ironwork between. Only two of these
+vases remain. The fleurs-de-lis on the house over the Sardinia Street
+entry were put up in compliment to Queen Henrietta Maria, who was the
+daughter of Henry IV. of France. The third great house on this side was
+Portsmouth House, over Portsmouth Place.
+
+The remainder of the houses have the same general character of stuccoed
+and pilastered uniformity, broken here and there by uncovered brick
+surfaces or frontages of stone. They are almost uninterruptedly occupied
+by solicitors. This is the oldest side of the square, being that built
+by Inigo Jones.
+
+At the south corner of the square there is a quaint red-brick,
+gable-ended house, with a bit of rusticated woodwork. This is all part
+of the same block as the Old Curiosity Shop, supposed to be that
+described by Dickens.
+
+On the south side rises the Royal College of Surgeons. The central part
+is carried up a story and an entresol higher than the wings, and, like
+the wings, is capped by a balustrade. The legend, "AEdes Collegii
+Chirurgorum Anglici--Diplomate Regio Corporate A.D. MDCCC," runs across
+the frontage. A massive colonnade of six Ionic columns gives solidity to
+the basement. The museum of this college has absorbed the site of the
+old Duke's Theatre. Its nucleus was John Hunter's collection, purchased
+by the college, and first opened in 1813.
+
+This side of the square is outside our present district. (See _The
+Strand_, in the same series.)
+
+The origin of the Company of Barber-Surgeons is very ancient, for the
+two guilds, Barbers and Surgeons, were incorporated in 1540; but in 1745
+they separated, and the Surgeons continued as a body alone. However,
+they came to grief in 1790, and the charter establishing the Royal
+College of Surgeons of London was granted in 1800; in 1845 the title was
+changed to that of the Royal College of Surgeons of England. The present
+building, however, dates only from 1835, and is the work of Sir C.
+Barry. It has since been enlarged and altered.
+
+With this the ancient parish of St. Giles-in-the-Fields ends, but our
+district includes Lincoln's Inn, and beyond it the parish of St. Andrew,
+Holborn, into which we pass.
+
+
+LINCOLN'S INN.
+
+BY W. J. LOFTIE.
+
+The old brick gateway in Chancery Lane is familiar to most Londoners. It
+ranks with the stone gateway of the Hospitallers in Clerkenwell, with
+the tower of St. James's Palace, and with the gate of Lambeth Palace, as
+one of the three or four relics of the Gothic style left in London. Even
+Gothic churches are scarce, while specimens of the domestic style are
+still scarcer. It need hardly be said that this tower has been
+constantly threatened, by "restorers" on the one hand, as well as by
+open destroyers on the other. It was built while Cardinal Wolsey was
+Chancellor, and was still new when Sir Thomas More sat in the hall as
+his successor. The windows have been altered, and the groining of the
+archway has been changed for a flat roof. It is said that the bricks of
+which the gate is built were made in the Coney Garth, which much later
+remained an open field, but is now New Square. A pillar, said to have
+been designed by Inigo Jones, stood in New Square, or, as it was called
+from a lessee at the beginning of the eighteenth century, Searle's
+Court. This ground and the site of the Law Courts formed part of
+Fickett's Field, the tilting-place of the Templars. Over the arch of the
+gate are carved three shields of arms. In the centre are the
+fleurs-de-lis and lions of Henry VIII., crowned within the garter. On
+the north side are the arms of Sir Thomas Lovell, who was a bencher of
+the Inn, and who rebuilt the gate in 1518. At the other side is the
+shield of Lacy. It was Henry Lacy, third Earl of Lincoln, who died in
+1311, by whom the lawyers are said to have been first established here.
+It is certain that soon after his death the house and gardens, which
+before his time had belonged in part to the Blackfriars, and which he
+had obtained on their removal to the corner of the City since called
+after them, were in the occupation of a society of students of the law.
+An adjoining house and grounds belonged to the Bishops of Chichester:
+Bishop's Court and Chichester's Rents are still local names. Richard
+Sampson, Bishop in 1537, made over the estate to Suliard, a bencher of
+the Inn, and his son in 1580 granted it to the lawyers. The gate is at
+76, Chancery Lane, formerly New Street, and later Chancellor's Lane. In
+Old Square, the first court we enter, are situated the ancient hall and
+the chapel, the south side being occupied by chambers, some of them
+ancient. The turret in the corner, and one at the south-western corner,
+behind the hall, are very like those at St. James's Palace, and probably
+date very soon after the gate. Here at No. 13 Thurloe, Oliver Cromwell's
+Secretary of State, concealed a large collection of letters, which were
+discovered long after and have been published. The hall is low, and
+cannot be praised for any external architectural features of interest.
+The brickwork, which is older by twelve years than that of the gate, is
+concealed under a coat of stucco. There are three Gothic windows on each
+side, and the dimensions are about 70 feet by 32 feet high. The interior
+is not much more imposing, but the screen, in richly-carved oak, set up
+in 1565, is handsome, and there is a picture by Hogarth of St. Paul
+before Felix.
+
+Mr. Spilsbury, the librarian, seems to have proved conclusively that the
+chapel, which stands at right angles to the old hall, was a new building
+when it was consecrated in 1623. There is no direct evidence that it was
+designed by Inigo Jones; on the other hand, there is a record in
+existence which testifies that the Society intended to employ him. John
+Clarke was the builder. There was an older chapel in a ruinous
+condition, which there is reason to believe had been that of the
+Bishops, as it was dedicated to St. Richard of Chichester. Mr. Spilsbury
+quotes one of the Harleian manuscripts, written in or about 1700, in
+which Inigo is named as the architect, and Vertue's engraving of 1751
+also mentions him. The chapel is elevated on an open crypt, which was
+intended for a cloister. Butler's "Hudibras" speaks of the lawyers as
+waiting for customers between "the pillar-rows of Lincoln's Inn." There
+were three bays, divided by buttresses, each of which was surmounted by
+a stone vase, a picturesque but incongruous arrangement, which was
+altered in the early days of the Gothic revival, being the first of a
+series of "restorations" to which the chapel has been subjected. A more
+serious offence against taste was the erection of a fourth bay at the
+west end, by which the old proportions are lost. It looks worst on the
+outside, however, and the fine old windows of glass stained in England,
+apparently after a Flemish design, are calculated to disarm criticism.
+Mr. Spilsbury attributes them to Bernard and Abraham van Linge, but the
+glass was made by Hall, of Fetter Lane. The monuments commemorate, among
+others, Spencer Perceval, murdered in 1812, and a daughter of Lord
+Brougham, who died in 1839, and was buried in the crypt. The office of
+chaplain was in existence as early as the reign of Henry VI. The
+preachership was instituted in 1581, and among those who held the office
+were John Donne, afterwards Dean of St. Paul's, who preached the first
+sermon when the chapel was new. Herring, another preacher, was made
+Archbishop of York in 1743, and of Canterbury in 1747. Another
+Archbishop of York, William Thomson, was preacher here, and was promoted
+in 1862. The greatest of the list was, perhaps, Reginald Heber, though
+he was only here for a year before he was appointed Bishop of Calcutta.
+
+The garden extends along the east side of Lincoln's Inn Fields, the New
+Square occupying the south portion, the new hall and library the middle
+part, and the west part of Stone Buildings facing the northern part. A
+terrace divides them, and there is a gate into the Fields, the roadway
+leading north to Great Turnstile and Holborn. North of the Old Buildings
+and the chapel is Stone Buildings, in a handsome classical style, with a
+wing which looks into Chancery Lane near its Holborn end, and is half
+concealed by low shop-fronts. The history of the Stone Buildings is
+connected with that of the new hall and the library. Hardwick, one of
+the last of the school which might be connected with Chambers, the
+Adams, Payne, and other architects of the English Renaissance, was
+employed to complete Stone Buildings, begun by Sir Robert Taylor, before
+the end of the eighteenth century. Hardwick was at work in 1843, and his
+initials and a date, "P. H., 1843," are on the south gable of the hall.
+The new Houses of Parliament had just set the fashion for an attempt to
+revive the Tudor style, and Hardwick added to it the strong feeling for
+proportion which he had imbibed with his classical training. This gable
+is exceedingly satisfactory, the architect having given it a dignity
+wanting in most modern Gothic. It is of brick, with diagonal fretwork in
+darker bricks, as in the gate tower. The library had been removed to the
+Stone Buildings in 1787 from a small room south of the old hall, and,
+more accommodation being required, Hardwick designed a library to adjoin
+the new hall. The two looked very well, the hall being of six bays, with
+a great bow-window at the north end. The interior is embellished with
+heraldry in stained glass, carved oak, metal work, and fresco painting.
+At the north end, over the dais, is Mr. G. F. Watts' great picture, "The
+School of Legislation." The hall is 120 feet long, 45 feet wide, and 62
+feet high. The roof of oak is an excellent imitation of an open timber
+roof of the fifteenth century, and is carved and gilt. The windows were
+filled with heraldry by Willement, and show us the arms of the legal
+luminaries who have adorned Lincoln's Inn, many of whom are also
+represented by busts and painted portraits. The hall is connected with
+an ample kitchen, and a series of butteries, pantries, and sculleries of
+suitable size.
+
+Adjoining the hall, the library and a reading-room, which as first built
+were calculated to enhance the dignity of the hall, were soon found to
+be too small. Sir Gilbert Scott was called in to add to them. The
+delicate proportions of Hardwick suffered in the process, the younger
+architect having evidently thought more of the details, as was the
+fashion of his school. The additions were carried out in 1873, and the
+library is now 130 feet long, but shuts out a large part of the view
+northward through the gardens. It is believed that Ben Jonson worked
+here as a bricklayer, and we are told by Fuller that he had a trowel in
+his hand and a book in his pocket. Aubrey says his mother had married a
+bricklayer, and that he was sent to Cambridge by a bencher who heard him
+repeating Homer as he worked. Of actual members of eminence, Lincoln's
+Inn numbers almost as many as the Inner Temple. Sir Thomas More among
+these comes first, but his father, who was a Judge, should be named with
+him. The handsome Lord Keeper Egerton, ancestor of so many eminent
+holders of the Bridgwater title, belonged to Lincoln's Inn during the
+reign of Elizabeth. The second Lord Protector, Richard Cromwell, was a
+student here in 1647, and Lenthall, his contemporary, was Reader. A
+little later Sir Matthew Hale, whose father had also been a member, was
+of this inn, and became Chief Justice in 1671. The first Earl of
+Mansfield was a barrister of Lincoln's Inn, and four or five Lords
+Chancellor in a row, including Bathurst, Campbell, St. Leonards, and
+Brougham.
+
+From the antiquarian or the picturesque point of view Lincoln's Inn is
+not so fascinating as the two Temples. It looks rather frowning from
+Chancery Lane, where it rises against the western sky. The old hall and
+the chapel are rather curious than beautiful, and cannot compare with
+Middle Temple Hall or the Church of the Knights. The fine buildings
+which overlook the gardens and trees of Lincoln's Inn Fields owe much to
+their open situation. The Stone Buildings where they look on the green
+turf of the garden are really magnificent, but they stand back from the
+public gaze, and are but seldom seen by the casual visitor.
+
+
+CHANCERY LANE.
+
+Strype says the Lane "received the name of Chancellor's Lane in the time
+of Edward I. The way was so foul and miry that John le Breton, Custos of
+London, and the Bishop of Chichester, kept bars with staples across it
+to prevent carts from passing. The roadway was repaired in the reign of
+Edward III., and acquired its present name under his successor, Richard
+II."
+
+About half of the Lane falls within the district, being in the parish of
+St. Andrew, Holborn. In it at the present time there is nothing worthy
+of remark, except the gateway of Lincoln's Inn, mentioned elsewhere.
+Offices, flats, and chambers in the solid modern style rise above shops.
+Near the north end is the Chancery Lane Safe Deposit. On the opposite
+side the old buildings of Lincoln's Inn frown defiance. Chancery Lane
+has for long been the chief connection between the Strand and Holborn,
+but will soon be superseded by Kingsway further west.
+
+Near the north end are Southampton Buildings, rigidly modern, containing
+the Birkbeck Bank and Chambers. They are built on the site once covered
+by Southampton House, which came to William, Lord Russell, by his
+marriage with the daughter and heiress of the last Lord Southampton. It
+is difficult to realize now the scene thus described by J. Wykeham
+Archer: "It was in passing this house, the scene of his domestic
+happiness, on his way to the scaffold in Lincoln's Inn Fields, that the
+fortitude of the martyr for a moment forsook him; but, overmastering his
+emotion, he said, 'The bitterness of death is now past.'"
+
+Cursitor Street was in the eighteenth century noted for its
+sponging-houses, and many a reference is made to it in contemporary
+literature. We are now in the Liberties of the Rolls, a parish in
+itself.
+
+The Cursitors' Office was built by Bacon, Lord Keeper of the Great Seal,
+and adjoined the site of a palace of the Bishop of Chichester; and this
+adjoined the Domus Conversorum, or House of Converts, wherein the rolls
+of Chancery were kept, now replaced by the magnificent building of the
+new Record Office. Southward is Serjeants' Inn--the building still
+stands; also Clifford's Inn, once pertaining to the Inner Temple. The
+hall of Clifford's Inn was converted into a court for the adjustment of
+boundaries after the Fire of London.
+
+On the west side of Chancery Lane, a few doors above Fleet Street, Izaak
+Walton kept a draper's shop. These details about the southern part of
+Chancery Lane are mentioned for the sake of continuity, for they do not
+come within the Holborn District.
+
+Chancery Lane was the birthplace of Lord Strafford, the residence of
+Chief Justice Hyde, of the Lord Keeper Guildford, and of Jacob Tonson.
+
+Passing on into Holborn and turning eastward, we soon perceive a row of
+quaint Elizabethan gabled houses (see Frontispiece), with overhanging
+upper stories and timber framework. The contrast with the modern
+terra-cotta buildings on the north side of the street is striking. The
+old houses are part of Staple Inn, now belonging to the Prudential
+Assurance Company, whose red terra-cotta it is that forms such a
+contrast across the way. It was bought by the company in 1884, and
+restored a few years later by the removal of the plaster which had
+concealed the picturesque beams. Still within St. Andrew's parish, we
+here arrive at the City boundaries. The numbering of Holborn proper,
+included in the City, begins a door or two above the old timbered
+entrance, which leads to the first courtyard of Staple Inn. The
+courtyard is a real backwater out of the rushing traffic. The uneven
+cobble-stones, the whispering plane-trees, the worn red brick, and the
+flat sashed windows, of a bygone date all combine to make a picture of
+old London seldom to be found nowadays. Dr. Johnson wrote parts of
+"Rasselas" while a resident here.
+
+The way is a thoroughfare to Southampton Buildings, and continuing
+onward we pass another part of the old building with a quaint clock and
+small garden. Near at hand are the new buildings of the Patent Office
+and the Birkbeck Bank and Chambers, already mentioned, an enormous mass
+of masonry. The Inn contains a fine hall, thus mentioned in 1631:
+
+"Staple Inn was the Inne or Hostell of the Merchants of the Staple (as
+the tradition is), wherewith until I can learne better matter,
+concerning the antiquity and foundation thereof, I must rest satisfied.
+But for latter matters I cannot chuse but make report, and much to the
+prayse and commendation of the Gentlemen of this House, that they have
+bestowed great costs in new-building a fayre Hall of brick, and two
+parts of the outward Courtyards, besides other lodging in the garden and
+elsewhere, and have thereby made it the fayrest Inne of Chauncery in
+this Universitie."
+
+The whole of this district abounds in these one-time Inns of Chancery,
+formerly attached to the Inns of Court; but those that remain are all
+now diverted to other uses, and some have vanished, leaving only a name.
+
+Further on there is Furnival Street, lately Castle Street, and so marked
+in Strype's map. The Castle Public-house still recalls the older name.
+Tradesmen of every kind occupy the buildings, besides which there is a
+Baptist mission-house. The buildings on the east side are of the
+old-fashioned style, dark brick with flat sashed windows.
+
+Furnival Street lies within the City. The street takes its name from
+Furnival's Inn, rebuilt in the early part of the nineteenth century.
+This stood on the north side of Holborn, and was without the City. There
+is, perhaps, less to say about it than about any of the other old Inns.
+It was originally the town-house of the Lords Furnival. It was an Inn of
+Chancery in Henry IV.'s reign, and was sold to Lincoln's Inn in the
+reign of Elizabeth. Its most interesting associations are that Sir
+Thomas More was Reader for three years, and that Charles Dickens had
+chambers here previous to 1837, while "Pickwick" was running in parts.
+It was rebuilt in great part in Charles I.'s reign, and entirely rebuilt
+about 1818. With the exception of the hall, it was used as an hotel.
+The Prudential Assurance Company's palatial building now completely
+covers the site.
+
+In Holborn, opposite to the end of Gray's Inn Road, formerly stood
+Middle Row, an island of houses which formed a great obstruction to
+traffic. This was removed in 1867.
+
+The next opening on the south side is Dyers' Buildings, with name
+reminiscent of some former almshouses of the Dyers' Company. Then a
+small entry, with "Mercer's School" above, leads into Barnard's Inn, now
+the School of the Mercers' Company. The first court is smaller than that
+of Staple Inn, and lacks the whispering planes, yet it is redolent of
+old London. On the south side is the little hall, the smallest of all
+those of the London Inns; it is now used as a dining-hall. In the
+windows is some ancient stained glass, contemporary with the
+building--that is to say, about 470 years old.
+
+The exterior of this hall, with its steeply-pitched roof, is a favourite
+subject for artists. Beyond it are concrete courts, walls of glazed
+white brick, and cleanly substantial buildings, which speak of the
+modern appreciation of sanitation. A tablet on the wall records in
+admirably concise fashion the history of the Mercers' School and its
+various peregrinations until it found a home here in 1894. Before being
+bought by the Mercers' Company, the Inn had been let as residential
+chambers. It was also an Inn of Chancery, and belonged to Gray's Inn. It
+was formerly called Mackworth's Inn, being the property of Dr. John
+Mackworth, Dean of Lincoln. It was next occupied by a man named Barnard,
+when it was converted into an Inn of Chancery.
+
+The further court is bounded on the east side by one of the few very old
+buildings left in London. This was formerly the White Horse Inn, but is
+now also part of the Mercers' School buildings.
+
+Timbs quotes from Lord Eldon's "Anecdote Book," 1776, in which Lord
+Eldon says he came to the White Horse Inn when he left school, and here
+met his brother, Lord Stowell, who took him to see the play at Drury
+Lane, where "Lowe played Jobson in the farce, and Miss Pope played Nell.
+When we came out of the house it rained hard. There were then few
+hackney coaches, and we both got into one sedan-chair. Turning out of
+Fleet Street into Fetter Lane there was a sort of contest between our
+chairmen and some persons who were coming up Fleet Street.... In the
+struggle the sedan-chair was overset, with us in it."
+
+The white boundary wall of the Mercers' School replaces the old wall of
+the noted Swan Distillery (now rebuilt). This distillery was an object
+of attack in the Gordon Riots, partly, perhaps, because of its stores,
+and partly because its owner was a Roman Catholic. It was looted, and
+the liquor ran down in the streets, where men and women drank themselves
+mad. Dickens has thus described the riot scene in "Barnaby Rudge":
+
+    "The gutters of the street and every crack and fissure in the
+    stones ran with scorching spirit, which being dammed up by busy
+    hands overflowed the road and pavement, and formed a great pool
+    into which the people dropped down dead by dozens. They lay in
+    heaps all round this fearful pond, husbands and wives, fathers and
+    sons, mothers and daughters, women with children in their arms and
+    babies at their breasts, and drank until they died. While some
+    stooped their lips to the brink and never raised their heads again,
+    others sprang up from their fiery draught, and danced half in a mad
+    triumph, and half in the agony of suffocation, until they fell and
+    steeped their corpses in the liquor that had killed them."
+
+Both the Holborn and Fleet Street ends of Fetter Lane were for more than
+two centuries places of execution. Some have derived the name from the
+fetters of criminals, and others from "fewtors," disorderly and idle
+persons, a corruption of "defaytors," or defaulters; while the most
+probable derivation is that from the "fetters" or rests on the
+breastplates of the knights who jousted in Fickett's Field adjoining.
+
+An interesting Moravian Chapel has an entry on the east side of Fetter
+Lane. This has memories of Baxter, Wesley, and Whitefield. It was bought
+by the Moravians in 1738, and was then associated with the name of
+Count Zinzendorf. It was attacked and dismantled in the riots. Dryden is
+supposed to have lived in Fetter Lane, but Hutton, in "Literary
+Landmarks," says the only evidence of such occupation was a curious
+stone, existing as late as 1885, in the wall of No. 16, over
+Fleur-de-Lys Court, stating:
+
+        "Here lived
+        John Dryden,
+          Ye Poet.
+    Born 1631--Died 1700.
+       Glorious John!"
+
+But he adds there is no record when or by whom the stone was placed.
+Otway is said to have lived opposite, and quarrelled with his
+illustrious neighbour in verse. In any case, Fleur-de-Lys Court lies
+outside the boundaries of the parish we are now considering. It may,
+however, be mentioned that the woman Elizabeth Brownrigg, who so foully
+tortured her apprentices, committed her atrocities in this court. Praise
+God Barebones was at one time a resident in the Lane, and in the same
+house his brother, Damned Barebones. The house was afterwards bought by
+the Royal Society, of which Sir Isaac Newton was then President, and the
+Royal Society meetings were held here until 1782.
+
+Returning to Holborn, from whence we have deviated, we come across
+Bartlett's Buildings, described by Strype as a very handsome, spacious
+place very well inhabited.
+
+Thavie's Inn bears the name of the vanished Inn of Chancery. Here was
+originally the house of an armourer called John Thavie, who, by will
+dated 1348, devised it with three shops for the repair and maintenance
+of St. Andrew's Church. It was bought for an Inn of Chancery by
+Lincoln's Inn in the reign of Edward III. It is curious how persistently
+the old names have adhered to these places. It was sold by Lincoln's Inn
+in 1771, and afterwards burnt down. The houses here are chiefly
+inhabited by jewellers, opticians, and earthenware merchants. There are
+a couple of private hotels.
+
+In St. Andrew's Street are the Rectory and Court-house, rebuilt from the
+designs of S. S. Teulon in yellow brick. The buildings form a
+quadrangle, with a wall and one side of the church enclosing a small
+garden. In the Court-house is a handsome oak overmantle, black with age,
+which was brought here from the old Court-house in St. Andrew's Court,
+pulled down in the construction of St. Andrew's Street and Holborn
+Viaduct in 1869.
+
+Holborn Circus was formed in connection with the approaches to the
+Viaduct. In the centre there is an equestrian statue of the Prince
+Consort in bronze, by C. Bacon. This was presented by an anonymous
+donor, and the Corporation voted L2,000 for erecting a suitable pedestal
+for it. The whole was put up in 1874, two years after the completion of
+the Circus. On the north and south sides are bas-reliefs, and on the
+east and west statues of draped female figures seated.
+
+Holborn Viaduct was finished in 1869. It is 1,400 feet in length, and is
+carried by a series of arches over the streets in the valleys below. The
+main arch is over Farringdon Road, the bed of the Fleet or Holbourne
+Stream, and is supported by polished granite columns of immense
+solidity. At the four corners of this there are four buildings enclosing
+staircases communicating with the lower level, and in niches are
+respectively statues of Sir William Walworth, Sir Hugh Myddleton, Sir
+Thomas Gresham, and Sir Henry Fitz-Alwyn, with dates of birth and death.
+On the parapets of the Viaduct are four erect draped female figures,
+representative of Fine Art, Science, Agriculture, and Commerce. Holborn
+Viaduct is a favourite locality for bicycle shops.
+
+The City Temple (Congregational) and St. Andrew's Church are near
+neighbours, and conspicuous objects on the Viaduct just above Shoe Lane.
+The City Temple is a very solid mass of masonry with a cupola and a
+frontage of two stories in two orders of columns.
+
+The parish of St. Andrew was formerly of much greater extent than at
+present, embracing not only Hatton Garden, Saffron Hill, but also St.
+George the Martyr, these are now separate parishes.
+
+The original Church of St. Andrew was of great antiquity. Malcolm, who
+gives a very full account of it in "Londinium Redivivum," says that it
+was given "very many centuries past" to the Dean and Chapter of St.
+Paul's, and the Abbot and Convent of St. Saviour, Bermondsey, by
+Gladerinus, a priest, on condition that the Abbot and Convent paid the
+Dean and the Chapter 12s. per annum. We also hear that there was a
+grammar-school attached to it, one of Henry VI.'s foundations, and that
+there had been previously an alien priory, a cell to the House of Cluny,
+suppressed by Henry V. The church continued in a flourishing condition.
+Various chantries were bestowed upon it from time to time, and in the
+will of the Rector, date 1447, it is stated that there were four altars
+within the church. In Henry VIII.'s time the principals of the four inns
+or houses in the parish paid a mark apiece to the church, apparently for
+the maintenance of a chantry priest. In Elizabeth's reign the tombs were
+despoiled: the churchwardens sold the brasses that had so far escaped
+destruction, and proceeded to demolish the monuments, until an order
+from the Queen put a stop to this vandalism.
+
+In 1665 Stillingfleet (Bishop of Worcester) was made Rector. The church
+was rebuilt by Wren in 1686 "in a neat, plain manner." The ancient tower
+remained, and was recased in 1704. The building is large, light, and
+airy, and is in the florid, handsome style we are accustomed to
+associate with Wren. At the west end is a fine late-pointed arch,
+communicating with the tower, in which there is a similar window. This
+arch was blocked up and hidden by Wren, but was re-opened by the late
+Rector, the Rev. Henry Blunt, who also thoroughly restored and renovated
+the building some thirty years ago.
+
+The most interesting of the interior fittings is a porphyry altar,
+placed by Sacheverell, who was Rector from 1713 to 1724, and who is
+buried beneath it. A marble font, at which Disraeli was baptized at the
+age of twelve, is also interesting, and the pulpit of richly-carved
+wood, attributed to Grinling Gibbons, is very handsome. On the west wall
+is a marble slab, in memory of William Marsden, M.D., founder of the
+Royal Free and Cancer Hospitals. It was put up by the Cordwainers'
+Company in 1901.
+
+In the tower are many monuments of antiquity, but none to recall the
+memory of anyone notable. The church stood in a very commanding
+situation until the building of the Viaduct, which passes on a higher
+level, giving the paved yard in front the appearance of having been
+sunk.
+
+On this side of the church there is a large bas-relief of the Last
+Judgment, without date. This was a favourite subject in the seventeenth
+century, and similar specimens, though not so fine, and differing in
+treatment, still exist elsewhere (see p. 17).
+
+Malcolm mentions a house next the White Hart, with land behind it, worth
+5s. per annum, called "Church Acre," and in the reign of Henry VII. the
+priest was fined 4d. for driving across the churchyard to the Rectory.
+In the twenty-fifth year of Elizabeth's reign there was a great heap of
+skulls and bones that lay "unseemly and offensive" at the east end of
+the church. The register records the burial here, on August 28, 1770, of
+"William Chatterton," presumably Thomas Chatterton, as the date accords.
+A later hand has added the words "the poet."
+
+Wriothesley, Henry VIII.'s Chancellor, was buried in St. Andrew's
+churchyard. Timbs says that this church has been called the "Poets'
+Church," for, besides the above, John Webster, dramatic poet, is said to
+have been parish clerk here, though the register does not confirm it.
+Robert Savage was christened here January 18, 1696.
+
+There is also a monument to Emery, the comedian, and Neale, another
+poet, was buried in the churchyard. But these records combined make but
+poor claim to such a proud title. The ground on which Chatterton was
+buried has now utterly vanished, having been covered first by the
+Farringdon Market, and later by great warehouses.
+
+When the Holborn Viaduct was built, a large piece of the churchyard was
+cut off, and the human remains thus disinterred were reburied in the
+City cemetery at Ilford, Essex.
+
+The earliest mention of Shoe Lane is in a writ of Edward II., when it is
+denominated "Scolane in the ward without Ludgate." In the seventeenth
+century we read of a noted cockpit which was established here.
+
+Gunpowder Alley, which ran out of this Lane, was the residence of
+Lovelace, the poet, and of Lilly, the astrologer. The former died here
+of absolute want in 1658. His well-known lines,
+
+    "I could not love thee, dear, so much,
+      Loved I not honour more,"
+
+have made his fame more enduring than that of many men of greater
+poetical merit. In Shoe Lane lived also Florio, the compiler of our
+first Italian Dictionary. Coger's Hall in Shoe Lane attained some
+celebrity in the latter half of the eighteenth century. It was
+established for the purpose of debate, and, among others, O'Connell,
+Wilkes, and Curran, met here to discuss the political questions of the
+day. On the west side of Shoe Lane was Bangor Court, reminiscent of the
+Palace or Inn of the Bishops of Bangor. This was a very picturesque old
+house, if the prints still existing are to be trusted, and parts of it
+survived even so late as 1828. It was mentioned in the Patent Rolls so
+early as Edward III.'s reign. Another old gabled house, called Oldbourne
+Hall, was on the east side of the street, but this, even in Stow's time,
+had fallen from its high estate and descended to the degradation of
+division into tenements.
+
+Opposite St. Andrew's Church was formerly Scrope's Inn. According to
+Stow,
+
+    "This house was sometime letten out to sergeants-at-the-law, as
+    appeareth, and was found by inquisition taken in the Guildhall of
+    London, before William Purchase, mayor, and escheator for the king,
+    Henry VII., in the 14th of his reign, after the death of John Lord
+    Scrope, that he died deceased in his demesne of fee, by the
+    feoffment of Guy Fairfax, knight, one of the king's justices, made
+    in the 9th of the same king, unto the said John Scrope, knight,
+    Lord Scrope of Bolton, and Robert Wingfield, esquire, of one house
+    or tenement late called Sergeants' Inn, situate against the Church
+    of St. Andrew in Oldbourne, in the city of London, with two gardens
+    and two messuages to the same tenement belonging to the said city,
+    to hold in burgage, valued by the year in all reprises ten
+    shillings" (Thomas's edit. Stow, p. 144).
+
+This, as may be judged from the above, was not a regular Inn of
+Chancery, but appertained to Serjeants' Inn.
+
+Crossing Holborn Circus to the north side, we come into the Liberty of
+Saffron Hill, Hatton Garden, and Ely Rents. This Liberty, is coterminous
+with the parish of St. Peter, Saffron Hill. Hatton Garden derives its
+name from the family of Hatton, who for many years held possession of
+house and grounds in the vicinity of Ely Place, having settled upon the
+Bishops of Ely like parasites, and grown rich by extortion from their
+unwilling hosts. The district was separated from St. Andrew's in 1832,
+and became an independent ecclesiastical parish seven years later. As
+the Liberty of Saffron Hill, Hatton Garden, and Ely Rents, it has a very
+ancient history. It was cut in two by a recent Boundary Commission, and
+put half in Holborn and half in Finsbury Borough Councils.
+
+Ely Place was built in 1773 on the site of the Palace of the Bishops of
+Ely. The earliest notice of the See in connection with this spot is in
+the thirteenth century, when Kirkby, who died in office in 1290,
+bequeathed to his official successors a messuage and nine cottages in
+Holborn. A succeeding Bishop, probably William de Luda, built a chapel
+dedicated to St. Ethelreda, and Hotham, who died in 1336, added a
+garden, orchard, and vineyard. Thomas Arundel restored the chapel, and
+built a large gate-house facing Holborn. The episcopal dwelling steadily
+rose in magnificence and size. It boasted noble residents besides the
+Bishops, for John of Gaunt died here in 1399, having probably been
+hospitably taken in after the burning of his own palace at the Savoy.
+The strawberries of Ely Garden were famous, and Shakespeare makes
+reference to them, thus following closely Holinshed. But in the reign of
+Queen Elizabeth a blight fell on the Bishops. It began with the envious
+desires of Sir Christopher Hatton, who, by reason of his dancing and
+courtly tricks, had won the susceptible Queen's fancy and been made Lord
+Chancellor. He settled down on Ely Place, taking the gate-house as his
+residence, excepting the two rooms reserved as cells and the lodge. He
+held also part of the garden on a lease of twenty-one years, and the
+nominal rent he had to pay was a red rose, ten loads of hay, and L10 per
+annum. The Bishop had the right of passing through the gate-house, of
+walking in his own garden, and of gathering twenty bushels of roses
+yearly. Hatton spent much money (borrowed from the Queen) in improving
+and beautifying the estate, which pleased him so well that he farther
+petitioned the Queen to grant him the whole property. The poor, ill-used
+Bishop protested, but was sternly repressed, and the only concession he
+could obtain was the right to buy back the estate if he could at any
+time repay Hatton the sums which had been spent on it. But Hatton did
+not remain unpunished. The Queen, a hard creditor, demanded the immense
+sums which she had lent to him, and it is said he died of a broken
+heart, crushed at being unable to repay them. His nephew Newport, who
+took the name of Hatton, was, however, allowed to succeed him. The widow
+of this second Hatton married Sir Edward Coke, the ceremony being
+performed in St. Andrew's Church. The Bishops' and the Hattons' rights
+of property seem to have been somewhat involved, for after the death of
+this widow the Bishops returned, and in the beginning of the eighteenth
+century the Hatton property was saddled with an annual rent-charge of
+L100 payable to the See; and, in 1772, when, on the death of the last
+Hatton heir, the property fell to the Crown, the See was paid L200 per
+annum, and given a house in Dover Street, Piccadilly, in lieu of Ely
+Place. Malcolm says: "When a more convenient Excise Office was lately
+wanted, the ground on which Ely House stood was thought of for it, but
+its situation was objected to. When an intention was formed of removing
+the Fleet Prison, Ely House was judged proper on account of the quantity
+of ground about it, but the neighbouring inhabitants in Hatton Garden
+petitioned against the prison being built there. A scheme is now (1773)
+said to be in agitation for converting it into a Stamp Office, that
+business being at present carried on in chambers in Lincoln's Inn." So
+much for the history and ownership of a place which played a
+considerable part in London history. The fabric itself must have been
+very magnificent. There was a venerable hall 74 feet long, with six
+Gothic windows. At Ely House were held magnificent feasts by the
+Serjeants-at-Law, one of which continued for five days, and was honoured
+on the first day by the presence of Henry VIII. and Katherine of Aragon.
+Stow's account of this festival is perhaps worth quoting:
+
+    "It were tedious to set down the preparation of fish, flesh, and
+    other victuals spent in this feast, and would seem almost
+    incredible, and, as to me it seemeth, wanted little of a feast at a
+    coronation; nevertheless, a little I will touch, for declaration of
+    the charge of prices. There were brought to the slaughter-house
+    twenty-four great beefs at twenty-six shillings and eightpence the
+    piece from the shambles, one carcass of an ox at twenty-four
+    shillings, one hundred fat muttons two shillings and tenpence the
+    piece, fifty-two great veals at four shillings and eightpence the
+    piece, thirty-four porks three shillings and eightpence the piece,
+    ninety-one pigs sixpence the piece, capons of geese, of one
+    poulterer (for they had three), ten dozens at twenty-pence the
+    piece, capons of Kent nine dozens and six at twelvepence the piece,
+    capons coarse nineteen dozen at sixpence the piece, cocks of grose
+    seven dozen and nine at eightpence the piece, cocks coarse fourteen
+    dozen and eight at threepence the piece, pullets, the best,
+    twopence halfpenny, other pullets twopence, pigeons thirty-seven
+    dozen at tenpence the dozen, swans fourteen dozen, larks three
+    hundred and forty dozen at fivepence the dozen, &c. Edward Nevill
+    was seneschal or steward, Thomas Ratcliffe, comptroller, Thomas
+    Wildon, clerk of the Kitchen" (Thomas's edit. Stow, pp. 144, 145).
+
+During the Civil War the house was used both as a hospital and a prison.
+Great part of it was demolished during the imprisonment of Bishop Wren
+by the Commonwealth, and some of the surrounding streets were built on
+the site of the garden. Vine Street, Hatton Garden, Saffron Hill, of
+which the lower end was once Field Lane, carry their origin in their
+names. Evelyn, writing June 7, 1659, says that he came to see the
+"foundations now laying for a long streete and buildings on Hatton
+Garden, designed for a little towne, lately an ample garden." The
+chapel, dedicated to St. Ethelreda, now alone remains. It was for a time
+held by a Welsh Episcopalian congregation, but in 1874 was obtained by
+Roman Catholics, the Welsh congregation passing on to St. Benet's, on
+St. Benet's Hill in Thames Street. The chapel stands back from the
+street, and is faced by a stone wall and arched porch surmounted by a
+cross. This stonework is all modern. An entrance immediately facing the
+porch leads into the crypt, which is picturesque with old stone walls
+and heavily-timbered roof. This is by far the older part of the
+building, the chapel above being a rebuilding on the same foundation.
+The crypt probably dates back from the first foundation of De Luda, and
+the chapel from the restoration of Arundel. When the Roman Catholics
+came into possession, the late Sir Gilbert Scott was employed in a
+thorough restoration, during which a heavy stone bowl, about the size of
+a small font, was dug up. It is of granite, and is supposed to be of
+considerably more ancient date than the fabric itself, being pre-Saxon.
+From the size, it is improbable it was used as a font, being more likely
+a holy-water stoup, for which purpose it is now employed. Having been
+placed on a fitting shaft, it stands outside the entrance to the church,
+on the south side, in the cloister, which is probably on the site of the
+ancient cloister. There is a simple Early English porch, beautifully
+proportioned with mouldings of the period. Within the church corresponds
+in shape with the crypt; two magnificent windows east and west are
+worthy of a much larger building. Those on each side are of recent date,
+having been reconstructed from a filled-in window on the south side of
+the chancel. The reliquary contains a great treasure--a portion of the
+hand of St. Ethelreda, which member, having been taken from the chapel,
+after many wanderings, fell into the possession of a convent of nuns,
+who refused to give it up. Finally judgment was given to the effect that
+the nuns should retain a portion, while the part of a finger was granted
+to the church, which was accordingly done. It was this saint who gave
+rise to our word "tawdry." She was popularly known as St. Awdrey, and
+strings of beads sold in her name at fairs, etc., came to be made of any
+worthless glass or rubbish, and were called tawdry. The crypt is used as
+a regular church, and is filled with seats; service is held here as well
+as above.
+
+The timber beams in the roof are now (1903) undergoing thorough
+restoration, and the outer walls of the chapel are being repointed.
+
+From this quaint relic of past times, rich with the indefinable
+attraction which nothing but a history of centuries can give, we pass
+out into Ely Place. This is a quiet cul-de-sac composed almost wholly of
+the offices of business men, solicitors, etc. At the north end, beyond
+the chapel, the old houses are down, and new ones will be erected in
+their place. At the end a small watchman's lodge stands on the spot
+where stood the Bishops' Gateway, in which the parasite, Sir Christopher
+Hatton, first fastened on his host.
+
+Hatton Garden is a wide thoroughfare with some modern offices and many
+older houses, with bracketed doorways and carved woodwork. It has long
+been associated with the diamond merchant's trade, and now diamond
+merchants occupy quite half of the offices. It is also the centre of the
+gold and silver trade. The City Orthopaedic Hospital is on the east
+side.
+
+In Charles Street is the Bleeding Heart public-house, which derives its
+name from an old religious sign, the Pierced Heart of the Virgin. This
+is close to Bleeding Heart Yard, referred to in "Little Dorrit," and
+easily recalled by any reader of Dickens.
+
+In Cross Street there is an old charity school, with stuccoed figures of
+a charity boy and girl on the frontage. The Caledonian School was
+formerly in this street; it was removed to its present situation in
+1828. Whiston, friend of Sir Isaac Newton, lived here, and here Edward
+Irving first displayed his powers of preaching.
+
+Kirkby Street recalls what has already been said about the first Bishop
+of Ely, who purchased land whereon his successors should build a palace.
+It is a broad street, and in times past was a place of residence for
+well-to-do people.
+
+The lower part of Saffron Hill was known at first as Field Lane, and is
+described by Strype as "narrow and mean, full of Butchers and Tripe
+Dressers, because the Ditch runs at the back of their Slaughter houses,
+and carries away the filth." He also says that Saffron Hill is a place
+of small account, "both as to buildings and inhabitants, and pestered
+with small and ordinary alleys and courts taken up by the meaner sort of
+people, especially to the east side into the Town. The Ditch separates
+the parish from St. John, Clerkenwell, and over this Ditch most of the
+alleys have a small boarded bridge."
+
+We can easily picture it, the courts swarming with thieves and rogues
+who slipped from justice by this back-way, which made the place a kind
+of warren with endless ramifications and outlets. All this district is
+strongly associated with the stories of Dickens, who mentions Saffron
+Hill in "Oliver Twist," not much to its credit. In later times Italian
+organ-grinders and ice-cream vendors had a special predilection for the
+place, and did not add to its reputation. Curiously enough, the resident
+population of the neighbourhood are now almost wholly British, with very
+few Italians, as the majority of the foreigners have gone to join the
+colony just outside the Liberty, in Eyre Street Hill, Skinner's Street,
+etc. Within quite recent times the clergyman of the parish dare only go
+to visit these parishioners accompanied by two policemen in plain
+clothes. Now the lower half is a hive of industry, and is lined by great
+business houses. Further north, on the east side, the dwellings are
+still poor and squalid, but on one side a great part of the street has
+been demolished to make way for a Board school, built in a way
+immeasurably superior to the usual Board school style. Opposite is the
+Church of St. Peter, which is an early work of Sir Charles Barry. This
+is in light stone, in the Perpendicular style, and has two western
+towers. It was built at the time of the separation of the district,
+about 1832.
+
+In Hatton Wall an old yard bore the name of Hat in Tun, which was
+interesting as showing the derivation of the word. Strype mentions in
+this street a very old inn, called the Bull Inn. The part of Hatton Wall
+to the west of Hatton Garden was known as Vine Street, and here there
+was "a steep descent into the Ditch, where there is a bridge that
+leadeth to Clerkenwell Green" (Strype). In Hatton Yard Mr. Fogg,
+Dickens' magistrate, presided over a police-court.
+
+Leather Lane is called by Strype "Lither" Lane. Even in his day he
+reviles it as of no reputation, and this character it retains. It is one
+of the open street markets of London, lined with barrows and coster
+stalls, and abounding in low public-houses. The White Hart, the King's
+Head, and the Nag's Head, are mentioned by Strype, and these names
+survive amid innumerable others. At the south end a house with
+overhanging stories remains; this curtails the already narrow space
+across the Lane.
+
+On the west of Leather Lane, Baldwin's Buildings and Portpool Lane open
+out. The former consists largely of workmen's model dwellings,
+comfortable and convenient within, but with the peculiarly depressing
+exteriors of the utilitarian style. Further north these give way to
+warehouses, breweries, and manufactories. East of its southern end in
+Holborn were two old inns, the Old Bell and Black Bull. The former was a
+coaching inn of great celebrity in its day, and picturesque wooden
+balconies surrounded its inner courtyard. It has now been transformed
+into a modern public-house. It was the last of the old galleried inns of
+London. The Black Bull was also of considerable age. Its courtyard has
+been converted into dwellings.
+
+Brooke Street takes its name from Brooke Market, established here by
+Fulke Greville, Lord Brooke, but demolished a hundred years ago. It was
+in Brooke Street, in a house on the west side, that poor Chatterton
+committed suicide. St. Alban's Church is an unpretentious building at
+the north end. An inscription over the north door tells us that it was
+erected to be free for ever to the poor by one of the humble stewards of
+God's mercies, with date 1860. Within we learn that this benefactor was
+the first Baron Addington. The church is well known for its ritualistic
+services.
+
+Portpool Lane, marked in Strype's plan Perpoole, is the reminiscence of
+an ancient manor of that name. The part of Clerkenwell Road bounding
+this district to the north was formerly called by the appropriate name
+of Liquorpond Street. In it there is a Roman Catholic Church of St.
+Peter, built in 1863. The interior is very ornate. Just here, where Back
+Hill and Ray Street meet, was Hockley Hole, a famous place of
+entertainment for bull and bear baiting, and other cruel sports that
+delighted the brutal taste of the eighteenth century. One of the
+proprietors, named Christopher Preston, fell into his own bear-pit, and
+was devoured, a form of sport that doubtless did not appeal to him.
+Hockley Hole was noted for a particular breed of bull-dogs. The actual
+site of the sports is in the adjoining parish, but the name occurring
+here justifies some comment. Hockley in the Hole is referred to by Ben
+Jonson, Steele, Fielding, and others. It was abolished soon after 1728.
+
+It was in a sponging-house in Eyre Street that Morland, the painter,
+died. In the part of Gray's Inn Road to the north of Clerkenwell Road
+formerly stood Stafford's Almshouses, founded in 1652.
+
+At present Rosebery Avenue, driven through slumland, justifies its
+pleasant-sounding name, being a wide, sweeping, tree-lined road.
+Workmen's model dwellings rise on either side.
+
+The northern part of Gray's Inn Road falls within the parish of St.
+Pancras. The part which lies to the north of Theobald's Road was
+formerly called Gray's Inn Lane. In 1879-80 the east side was pulled
+down, and the line of houses set back in the rebuilding. These consists
+of uninteresting buildings, with small shops on the ground-floor. On the
+west there are the worn bricks of Gray's Inn. At the corner of
+Clerkenwell Road is the Holborn Town-Hall, an imposing, well-built
+edifice of brick and stone, with square clock-tower, surmounted by a
+smaller octagonal tower and dome. The date is 1878.
+
+Gray's Inn Road is familiar to all readers of Dickens and Fielding, from
+frequent references in their novels. John Hampden took lodgings here in
+1640, in order to be near Pym, at a time when the struggle between the
+King and Parliament in regard to the question of ship money was at its
+sharpest. James Shirley, the dramatic poet of the seventeenth century,
+is also said to have lived here, but was probably in Gray's Inn itself.
+
+
+GRAY'S INN.
+
+BY W. J. LOFTIE.
+
+An archway on the north side of Holborn, nearly opposite Chancery Lane,
+admits us to Gray's Inn. It is not the original entrance, which was
+round the corner in Portpool Lane, now called Gray's Inn Road. The Lords
+Grey of Wilton obtained the Manor of Portpool at some remote period
+from the Canon of St. Paul's, who held it; we have no direct evidence as
+to whether the Canon had a house on the spot, but there are some traces
+of a chapel and a chaplain. In 1315 Lord Grey gave some land in trust to
+the Canons of St. Bartholomew to endow the chaplain in his mansion of
+Portpool. From its situation near London, the ready access both to the
+City and the country, with the fine views northward towards Hampstead
+and Highgate, this must have been a more desirable place of residence
+than even the neighbouring manor of the Bishop of Ely. It consisted in
+the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries of a gate-house which faced
+eastward, the chapel close to it on the left, and various other
+buildings, some of them apparently forming separate houses, with
+spacious gardens and a windmill. Here the Lords Grey lived for a couple
+of centuries in great state, apparently letting or lending the smaller
+houses to tenants or retainers--it would seem not unlikely to lawyers or
+students of the law, possibly their own men of business. This is no mere
+theory or guesswork. There has been too much conjecture about the early
+history of Gray's Inn, and the sober-minded topographer is warned off at
+the outset by a number of inconsistent assertions as to the early
+existence here of a school of law. Dugdale tells us that the manor was
+granted to the Priory of Shene in the reign of Henry VII., and after the
+dissolution it was rented by a society of students of the law. A
+fictitious list of Readers goes back to the reign of Edward III., but
+will not bear critical examination. The lawyers paid a rent of L6 13s.
+4d. to Henry VIII., and this charge passed into private hands by grant
+of Charles II. The lawyers bought it from the heir of the first grantee,
+and since 1733 have enjoyed the Inn rent-free. The opening into Holborn
+was made on the purchase by the society, in 1594, of the Hart on the
+Hoop, which then belonged to Fulwood, whose name is commemorated by
+Fulwood's Rents, now nearly wiped out by a station of the Central London
+Railway.
+
+The chief entrance is by the archway in Holborn. In 1867 the old brick
+arch was beplastered, obliterating a reminiscence of Dickens, who makes
+David Copperfield and Dora lodge over it. A narrow road leads into South
+Square, the north side of which is formed by the hall and library. The
+houses round the east and south sides are of uniform design, with
+handsome doorways. The hall has been much "restored," but was originally
+built in the reign of Queen Mary. It has a modern Gothic porch, carved
+with the griffin, which forms the coat armour of the Inn.
+
+The interior of the hall has been renovated, having been much injured
+in 1828, when the exterior was covered with stucco. The brick front is
+again visible, and the panelling and roof within are of carved oak.
+There are coats of arms in the windows, and on the walls hang portraits
+of Charles I., Charles II., James II., and the two Bacons--father and
+son--Sir Nicholas and Viscount St. Albans, who are the chief legal
+luminaries of the "ancient and honourable society." The library, modern,
+adjoins on the east, and contains a collection of important records and
+printed books on law.
+
+Passing through an arch at the western end of the hall, we enter Gray's
+Inn Square, formerly Chapel Court. The chapel is close to the library on
+the north side, and opens into Gray's Inn Square. This court was
+probably open on the north side to the fields before the reign of
+Charles II. Some of the buildings surrounding it are in a good Queen
+Anne style, and some have the cross-mullioned windows of a still earlier
+period. The exterior of the chapel is covered with stucco. The interior,
+which is very small--there being only seating for a congregation of
+about one hundred--was carefully examined three years ago, when a
+proposal was made to build a new chapel. The Gothic windows, walled up
+by the library to the south, came to light, and there seems some
+probability that the building is mainly that of Lord Grey's chantry of
+1315. Some improvements and repairs to the interior have saved the
+little chapel for the present. There are no monuments visible, but four
+Archbishops of Canterbury who were connected with the Inn are
+commemorated in the east window. They were Whitgift (1583-1604), Juxon
+(1660-1663), Wake (1715-1737), Laud (1633-1645), and in the centre
+Becket, whose only claim to be in such a goodly company appears to be
+that a window "gloriously painted," with the figure of St. Thomas of
+London, was destroyed by Edward Hall, the Reader, in 1539, according to
+the King's injunctions. A subsequent window, showing our Lord on the
+Mount, had long disappeared, and some heraldry was all the east end of
+the chapel could boast.
+
+The gardens open by a handsome gate of wrought iron into Field Court,
+which is westward of Gray's Inn Square. Here Bacon planted the trees,
+and enjoyed the view northward, then all open, from a summer-house which
+was only removed about 1754. Bacon lived in Coney Court, destroyed by
+fire in 1678, which looked on the garden.
+
+Among the names of eminent men which occur to the memory in Gray's Inn,
+we must mention a tradition which makes Chief Justice Gascoigne a
+student here. More real is Thomas Cromwell, the terrible Vicar-General
+of Henry VIII. Sir Thomas Gresham was a member of the Inn, as was his
+contemporary Camden, the antiquary. Lord Burghley and his second son,
+Robert, Earl of Salisbury, were both members, it is said, but certainly
+Burghley. The list of casual inhabitants is almost inexhaustible, being
+swelled by the heroes of many novels, actually or entirely fictitious.
+Shakespeare was said to have played in the hall. Bradshaw, who presided
+at the trial of Charles I., was a bencher; and so was Holt, the Chief
+Justice of William III. More eminent than either, perhaps, was Sir
+Samuel Romilly, whose sad death in 1818 caused universal regret. Pepys
+mentions the walks, and observed the fashionable beauties after church
+one Sunday in May, 1662. Sir Roger de Coverley is placed on the terrace
+by Addison, and both Dryden, Shadwell, and other old dramatists speak of
+the gardens. It was at Gray's Inn Gate--the old gate into Portpool
+Lane--that Jacob Tonson, the great bookseller and publisher of the
+eighteenth century, had his shop.
+
+The district northward of Gray's Inn needs very little comment. Great
+St. James Street is picturesque, with eighteenth-century doorways and
+carved brackets; the tenants of the houses are nearly all solicitors.
+Little St. James Street is insignificant and diversified by mews. In
+Strype's plan the rectangle formed by these two streets is marked
+"Bowling Green"; in one corner is "the Cockpitt."
+
+Bedford Row is a very quiet, broad thoroughfare lined by
+eighteenth-century houses of considerable height and size, which for the
+most part still retain their noble staircases and well-proportioned
+rooms. Nearly every house is cut up into chambers. Abernethy, the great
+surgeon, formerly lived in this street, and Addington, Viscount
+Sidmouth, was born here; Bishop Warburton, the learned theologian and
+writer of the eighteenth century, and Elizabeth, daughter of Oliver
+Cromwell, are also said to have been among the residents. Ralph, the
+author of "Publick Buildings," admired it prodigiously, naming it one of
+the finest streets in London.
+
+Red Lion Square took its name from a very well-known tavern in Holborn,
+one of the largest and most notable of the old inns. There is a modern
+successor, a Red Lion public-house, at the corner of Red Lion Street. To
+the ancient inn the bodies of the regicides were brought the night
+before they were dragged on hurdles to be exposed at Tyburn. This gave
+rise to a tradition, which still haunts the spot, that some of these
+men, including Cromwell, were buried in the Square, and that dummy
+bodies were substituted to undergo the ignominy at Tyburn.
+
+There was for many years in the centre of the Square an obelisk with the
+inscription, "Obtusum Obtusioris Ingenii Monumentum Quid me respicis
+viator? Vade." And an attempt has been made to read the mysterious
+inscription as a Cromwellian epitaph. Pennant says that in his time the
+obelisk had recently vanished, which gives the date of destruction about
+1780.
+
+The Square was built about 1698, and is curiously laid out, with streets
+running diagonally from the corners as well as rectangularly from the
+sides. It had formerly a watch-house at each corner, as well as the
+obelisk in the centre. It is at present lined by brick houses of uniform
+aspect and unequal heights, with here and there a conspicuously modern
+building. The centre is laid out as a public garden, and forms a green
+and pleasant oasis in a very poor district.
+
+St. John the Evangelist's Church, of red brick, designed by Pearson,
+stands at the south-west corner. It was built 1876-1878, and is very
+conspicuous, with two pointed towers and a handsome, deeply-recessed
+east window. Next door is the clergy house. There are in the Square
+various associations and societies, including the Mendicity Society,
+Indigent Blind Visiting Society, St. Paul's Hospital, and others. Milton
+had a house which overlooked Red Lion Fields, the site of the Square,
+and Jonas Hanway, traveller and philanthropist, also a voluminous
+writer, but who will be best remembered as the first man in England to
+carry an umbrella, died here in 1786. Sharon Turner, historian, came
+here after his marriage in 1795, and Lord Chief Justice Raymond, who
+held his high office in the reign of the first and second Georges, lived
+in the Square. But a later association will, perhaps, be more
+interesting to most people: for about three years previously to 1859 Sir
+E. Burne-Jones and William Morris lived in rooms at No. 17, before
+either was married.
+
+Of the surrounding streets, those at the south-east and north-east
+angles are the most quaint. An old house with red tiles stands at each
+corner, and the remaining houses, though not so picturesque, are of
+ancient date. The streets are mere flagged passages lined by open stalls
+and little shops.
+
+Kingsgate Street is so named because it had a gate at the end through
+which the King used to pass to Newmarket. It is mentioned by Pepys, who
+under date March 8, 1669, records that the King's coach was upset here,
+throwing out Charles himself, the Dukes of York and Monmouth, and Prince
+Rupert, who were "all dirt, but no hurt." Near the end of this street in
+Holborn was the Vine Inn, important as having kept alive the only
+reference in Domesday Book to this district, "a vineyard in Holborn"
+belonging to the Crown.
+
+Part of Theobald's Road was once King's Way; it was the direct route to
+King James I.'s hunting-lodge, Theobald's, in Hertfordshire. It was in
+this part, at what is now 22, Theobald's Road, that Benjamin Disraeli is
+supposed to have been born; but many other places in the neighbourhood
+also claim to be his birthplace, though not with so much authority.
+There was a cockpit in this Road in the eighteenth century.
+
+We are now in the diminutive parish of St. George the Martyr, carved out
+of that of St. Andrew's, Holborn, and originally including Red Lion
+Square and the streets adjacent.
+
+Gloucester Street was named after Queen Anne's sickly little son, the
+only one of her seventeen children who survived infancy. Robert Nelson,
+author of "Fasts and Festivals," was at one time a resident. The street
+is narrow and dirty, lined by old brick houses; here and there is a
+carved doorway with brackets, showing that, like most streets in the
+vicinity, it was better built than now inhabited, and it is probable
+that where sickly children now sprawl on doorsteps stately ladies in
+hoops and silken skirts once stepped forth. St. George's National
+Schools are here, and a public-house with the odd name of Hole in the
+Wall, a name adopted by Mr. Morrison in his recent novel about Wapping.
+
+Queen Square was built in Queen Anne's reign, and named in her honour,
+but it is a statue of Queen Charlotte that stands beneath the
+plane-trees in the centre.
+
+When it was first built, much eulogy was bestowed upon it, because of
+the beautiful view to the Hampstead and Highgate Hills, for which reason
+the north side was left open; it is still open, but the prospect it
+commands is only the further side of Guilford Street. The Square is a
+favourite place for charitable institutions. On the east side was, until
+1902, a College for Working Men and Women, designed to aid by evening
+classes the studies of those who are busy all day.
+
+The Hospital for Paralysis and Epilepsy is on the same side. This was
+instituted in 1859, but the present building was in 1885 opened by the
+Prince of Wales, and is a memorial to the Duke of Albany, and a very
+splendid memorial it is. The building, which occupies a very large space
+along the side of the Square, is ornately built of red brick and
+terra-cotta, with handsome balconies and a porch of the latter material.
+There are four wards for men and five for women, with two small surgical
+wards; also two contributing wards for patients who can afford to pay
+something toward their expenses.
+
+Almost exactly opposite, across the Square, is a new red-brick building.
+This is the Alexandra Hospital, for children with hip disease, and
+sometimes a wan little face peeps out of the windows.
+
+On the south side is the Italian Hospital, lately rebuilt on a fine
+scale. There are other institutions and societies in the Square, such as
+the Royal Female School of Art, but none that call for any special
+comment.
+
+Among the eminent inhabitants of the Square were Dr. Stukeley, the
+antiquary, appointed Rector of the church, 1747--he lived here from the
+following year until his death in 1765; Dr. Askew; and John Campbell,
+author, and friend of Johnson, who used to give Sunday evening
+"conversation parties," where the great Doctor met "shoals of
+Scotchmen."
+
+The Church of St. George the Martyr stands on the west side of the
+Square, facing the open space at the south end. It was founded in 1706
+by private subscription as a chapel of ease to St. Andrew, and was named
+in honour of one of the founders, who had been Governor of Fort George,
+on the coast of Coromandel. "The Martyr" was added to distinguish it
+from the other St. George in the vicinity. It was accepted as one of the
+fifty new churches by the Commissioners in Queen Anne's reign, was
+consecrated in 1723, and had a district assigned to it. It was entirely
+rearranged and restored in 1868, and has lately been repainted. It is a
+most peculiar-looking church, with a spire cased in zinc. Small figures
+of angels embellish some points of vantage, and the symbols of the four
+Evangelists appear in niches. The windows are round-headed, with tracery
+of a peculiarly ugly type; but the interior is better than the exterior,
+and has lately been repaired and redecorated throughout.
+
+Powis House originally stood where Powis Place, Great Ormond Street, now
+is. This was built by the second Marquis or Duke of Powis, even before
+he had sold his Lincoln's Inn Fields house to the Duke of Newcastle, for
+he was living here in 1708. The second Duke was, like his father, a
+Jacobite, and had suffered much for his loyalty to the cause, having
+endured imprisonment in the Tower, but he was eventually restored to his
+position and estates. The house was burnt down in 1714, when the Duc
+d'Aumont, French Ambassador, was tenant, and it was believed that the
+fire was the work of an incendiary. The French King, Louis XIV., caused
+it to be rebuilt at his own cost, though insurance could have been
+claimed. In 1777 this later building was taken down.
+
+Lord Chancellor Thurlow lived in this street at No. 46, and it was from
+this house, now the Working Men's College, that the Great Seal was
+stolen and never recovered.
+
+Dr. Mead, a well-known physician, had a house here, afterwards occupied
+by the Hospital for Sick Children.
+
+The Working Men's College began at the instigation of a barrister in
+1848, and was fathered by the Rev. F. D. Maurice, who was Principal
+until his death. It grew rapidly, and in 1856 became affiliated to
+London University. The adjacent house was bought, in 1870 additional
+buildings were erected, and four years later the institution received a
+charter of incorporation. Maurice was succeeded in the principalship by
+Thomas Hughes, and Hughes by Lord Avebury, then Sir John Lubbock.
+
+The Hospital for Sick Children is a red-brick building designed by Sir
+C. Barry. Within, the wards are lined by glazed tiles, and the floors
+are of parquet. Each ward is named after some member of the Royal
+Family--Helena, Alice, etc. The children are received at any age, and
+the beds are well filled. Everything, it is needless to say, is in the
+beautifully bright and cleanly style which is associated with the modern
+hospital. The chapel is particularly beautiful; it is the gift of Mr. W.
+H. Barry, a brother of the architect, and the walls are adorned with
+frescoes above inlaid blocks of veined alabaster.
+
+The Homoeopathic Hospital, which is on the same side of the street
+nearer to the Square, is another large and noticeable building. This is
+the only hospital of the kind in London. The present building occupies
+the site of three old houses, one of which was the residence of Zachary
+Macaulay, father of the historian. There are in all seven wards, two for
+men, three for women, one for girls, and one for children. The
+children's ward is as pretty as any private nursery could be. The
+hospital is absolutely free, and the out-patient department
+exceptionally large.
+
+In Great Ormond Street there are also one or two Benefit Societies,
+Manchester Unity Independent Order of Oddfellows for the North London
+District, and many sets of chambers. This district seems particularly
+favourable to the growth of charitable institutions.
+
+Lamb's Conduit Street is called after one Lamb, who built a conduit here
+in 1577. This was a notable work in the days when the water-supply was a
+very serious problem. Thus, a very curious name is accounted for in a
+matter-of-fact way. In Queen Anne's time the fields around here formed a
+favourite promenade for the citizens when the day's work was done.
+
+The parish of St. George, Bloomsbury, which lies westward of St. George
+the Martyr, is considerably larger than its neighbour. The derivation of
+this name is generally supposed to be a corruption of Blemund's Fee,
+from one William de Blemund, who was Lord of the Manor in Henry VI.'s
+reign. Stow and others have written the word "Loomsbury," or
+"Lomesbury," but this seems to be due to careless orthography, and not
+to indicate any ancient rendering.
+
+The earliest holder of the manor of whom we have any record is the De
+Blemund mentioned above. There are intermediate links missing at a later
+date, but with the possession of the Southampton family in the very
+beginning of the seventeenth century the history becomes clear again. In
+1668 the manor passed into the hands of the Bedfords by marriage with
+the heiress of the Southamptons. This family also held St. Giles's,
+which, it will be remembered, was originally also part of the Prebendary
+of St. Paul's.
+
+The Royal Mews was established at Bloomsbury (Lomesbury) from very early
+times to 1537, when it was burnt down and the mews removed to the site
+of the present National Gallery (see _The Strand_, same series).
+
+The parish is largely composed of squares, containing three large and
+two small ones, from which nearly all the streets radiate. The British
+Museum forms an imposing block in the centre. This is on the site of
+Montague House, built for the first Baron Montague, and burnt to the
+ground in 1686. It was rebuilt again in great magnificence, with painted
+ceilings, according to the taste of the time, and Lord Montague, then
+Duke of Montague, died in it in 1709. The house and gardens occupied
+seven acres. The son and heir of the first Duke built for himself a
+mansion at Whitehall (see _Westminster_, same series, p. 83), and
+Montague House was taken down in 1845, when the present buildings of the
+Museum were raised in its stead.
+
+The Museum has rather a curious history. Like many of our national
+institutions, it was the result of chance, and not of a detailed scheme.
+In 1753 Sir Hans Sloane, whose name is associated so strongly with
+Chelsea, died, and left a splendid collection comprising "books,
+drawings, manuscripts, prints, medals, seals, cameos, precious stones,
+rare vessels, mathematical instruments, and pictures," which had cost
+him something like L50,000. By his will Parliament was to have the first
+refusal of this collection for L20,000. Though it was in the reign of
+the needy George II., the sum was voted, and by the same Act was bought
+the Harleian collection of MSS. to add to it; to this was added the
+Cottonian Library of MSS., and the nation had a ready-made collection.
+The money to pay for the Sloane and Harleian collections was raised by
+an easy method of which modern morals do not approve--that is to say, by
+lottery. Many suggestions were made as to the housing of this national
+collection. Buckingham House, now Buckingham Palace, was spoken of,
+also the old Palace Yard; of course, the modern Houses of Parliament
+were not then built. Eventually Montague House was bought, and the
+Museum was opened to the public in 1757. However, it had not ceased
+growing. George III. presented some antiquities, which necessitated the
+opening of a new department; to these were added the Hamilton and
+Townley antiquities by purchase, and in 1816 the Elgin Marbles were
+taken in temporarily. On the death of George III., George IV. presented
+his splendid library, known as the King's Library, to the Museum, not
+from any motive of generosity, but because he did not in the least
+appreciate it. Greville, in his Journal (1823), says: "The King had even
+a design of selling the library collected by the late King, but this he
+was obliged to abandon, for the Ministers and the Royal Family must have
+interposed to oppose so scandalous a transaction. It was therefore
+presented to the British Museum."
+
+It then became necessary to pull down Montague House and build a Museum
+worthy of the treasures to be enshrined. Sir Robert Smirke was the
+architect, and the present massive edifice is from his designs. The
+buildings cost more than L800,000.
+
+As this is no guide-book, no attempt is made to classify the departments
+of the Museum or to indicate its riches. These may be found by
+experiment, or read in the official guides to be bought on the spot.
+
+On the east is Montague Street, running into Russell Square.
+
+Southampton House, the ancient manor-house, celebrated for the famous
+lime-trees surrounding it, stood on the ground now occupied by Bedford
+Place. Noorthouck describes it as "elegant though low, having but one
+storey." It is commonly supposed to have been the work of Inigo Jones.
+When the property came into the Bedford family, it was occasionally
+called Russell House, after their family name. Maitland says that, when
+he wrote, one of the Parliamentary forts, two batteries, and a
+breastwork, remained in the garden. The house was demolished in 1800,
+and Russell Square was begun soon after. A double row of the lime-trees
+belonging to Bedford House had extended over the site of this Square.
+All this ground had previously been known as Southampton Fields, or Long
+Fields, and was the resort of low classes of the people, who here fought
+their pitched battles, generally on Sundays. It was known during the
+period of Monmouth's Rebellion as the Field of the Forty Footsteps,
+owing to the tradition that two brothers killed each other here in a
+duel, while the lady who was the cause of the conflict looked on.
+Subsequently no grass grew on the spots where the brothers had planted
+their feet.
+
+Southey, in his "Commonplace Book," thus narrates his own visit to the
+spot:
+
+    "We sought for near half an hour in vain. We could find no steps at
+    all within a quarter of a mile, no, nor half a mile, of Montague
+    House. We were almost out of hope, when an honest man, who was at
+    work, directed us to the next ground, adjoining to a pond. There we
+    found what we sought, about three-quarters of a mile north of
+    Montague House, and 500 yards east of Tottenham Court Road. The
+    steps are of the size of a large human foot, about three inches
+    deep, and lie nearly from north-east to south-west. We counted only
+    seventy-six; but we were not exact in counting. The place where one
+    or both the brothers are supposed to have fallen is still bare of
+    grass. The labourer also showed us where (the tradition is) the
+    wretched woman sat to see the combat." Southey adds his full
+    confidence in the tradition of the indestructibility of the steps,
+    even after ploughing up, and of the conclusions to be drawn from
+    the circumstance (_Notes and Queries_, No. 12).
+
+A long-forgotten novel, called "Coming Out; or, The Field of the Forty
+Footsteps," was founded on this legend, as was also a melodrama.
+
+Russell Square is very little inferior to Lincoln's Inn Fields in size,
+and at the time of its building had a magnificent situation, with an
+uninterrupted prospect right up to the hills of Hampstead and Highgate,
+and the only house then standing was on the east side; it belonged to
+the profligate Lord Baltimore, and was later occupied by the Duke of
+Bolton. The new Russell Hotel, at the corner of Guilford Street, and
+Pitman's School of Shorthand, in the south-eastern corner, are the only
+two buildings to note. A bronze statue of Francis, Duke of Bedford,
+executed by Westmacott, stands on the south side of the Square; this
+faces a similar statue of Fox in Bloomsbury Square.
+
+The Square seems to have been peculiarly attractive to men high up in
+the profession of the law. Sir Samuel Romilly, the great law reformer,
+lived here until his sad death in 1818; he committed suicide in grief at
+the loss of his wife. In the same year his neighbour Charles Abbot,
+afterwards first Baron Tenterden, was made Lord Chief Justice. He was
+buried at the Foundling Hospital by his own request. In 1793 Alexander
+Wedderburn (first Baron Loughborough and first Earl of Rosslyn), also a
+resident in the Square, was appointed Lord Chancellor. After this he
+probably moved to the official residence in Bedford Square.
+
+Frederick D. Maurice was at No. 5 from 1856 to 1862. Sir Thomas Lawrence
+lived for twenty years at No. 65, and while he was executing the
+portrait of Platoff, the Russian General, the Cossacks, mounted on small
+white horses, stood on guard in the Square before his door.
+
+Bloomsbury Square was at first called Southampton Square, and the sides
+were known by different names--Seymour Row, Vernon Street, and Allington
+Row. The north side was occupied by Bedford House. It is considerably
+older than its large neighbour on the north, and is mentioned by Evelyn
+in his Diary, on February 9, 1665. In Queen Anne's reign it was a most
+fashionable locality. The houses suffered greatly during the Gordon
+Riots, especially Lord Mansfield's house, in the north-east corner,
+which was completely ruined internally, and in which a most valuable
+library was destroyed, while Lord and Lady Mansfield made their escape
+from the mob by a back-door. Pope refers to the Square as a fashionable
+place of resort. Among the names of famous residents we have Sir Richard
+Steele, Richard Baxter, the Nonconformist divine, Dr. Akenside, and Sir
+Hans Sloane. The elder D'Israeli, who compiled "Curiosities of
+Literature," lived in No. 6; he came here in 1818, when his famous son
+was a boy of fourteen.
+
+The College of Preceptors stands on the south side. The Pharmaceutical
+Society, established in 1841, first took a house in the Square in that
+year. It was incorporated by royal charter two years later, and in 1857
+the two adjacent houses in Great Russell Street were added to the
+premises, which include a library and museum. There is also at No. 30
+the Institute of Chemistry of Great Britain and Ireland.
+
+In Southampton Street Colley Cibber, the dramatist and actor, was born.
+
+Silver Street, which is connected with Southampton Street by a covered
+entry, is described by Strype as "indifferent well built and
+inhabited"--a character it apparently keeps up to this day.
+
+Bloomsbury Market Strype describes as "a long place with two
+market-houses, the one for flesh and the other for fish, but of small
+account by reason the market is of so little use and so ill served with
+provisions, insomuch that the inhabitants deal elsewhere." In Parton's
+time it was still extant, "exhibiting little of that bustle and business
+which distinguishes similar establishments." Though it was cleared away
+in 1847, its site is marked by Market Street, which with Silver and
+Bloomsbury Streets forms a cross.
+
+Southampton Row is a very long street, extending from Russell Square to
+High Holborn. It includes what was formerly King Street and Upper King
+Street, which together reached from High Holborn to Bloomsbury Place.
+Gray, the poet, lodged in this Row in 1759.
+
+The Church of St. George is in Hart Street. St. George's parish was
+formed from St. Giles's on account of the great increase of buildings in
+this district. In 1710 the proposal for a new church was first mooted,
+and in 1724 the parishes were officially separated. The church stands on
+a piece of ground formerly known as Plough Yard. It is the work of
+Hawkesmoor, Wren's pupil, and was consecrated in 1730. It cannot be
+better described than in the words of Noorthouck: "This is an irregular
+and oddly constructed church; the portico stands on the south side, of
+the Corinthian order, and makes a good figure in the street, but has no
+affinity to the church, which is very heavy, and would be better suited
+with a Tuscan portico. The steeple at the west is a very extraordinary
+structure; on a round pedestal at the top of a pyramid is placed a
+colossal statue of the late King [George I.], and at the corners near
+the base are alternately placed the lion and unicorn, the British
+supporters, with festoons between. These animals, being very large, are
+injudiciously placed over columns very small, which make them appear
+monsters." The lions and unicorns have now been removed. This steeple
+has been described by Horace Walpole as a masterpiece of absurdity.
+Within, the walls rise right up to the roof with no break, and give an
+impression of great spaciousness. There is a small chapel on either
+side, that on the east, of an apselike shape, being used as a
+baptistery. The western one contains a ponderous monument erected in
+memory of one of their officials by the East India Company. There are
+other monuments in the church, but none of any general interest. The
+Communion-table is enclosed by a wooden canopy with fluted columns,
+said to be of Italian origin, and to have been brought from old Montague
+House.
+
+In Little Russell Street are the parochial schools. These were
+established in 1705 in Museum Street, and were removed in 1880 to the
+present building. They were founded by Dr. Carter for the maintenance,
+clothing, and education of twenty-five girls, and the clothing and
+education of eighty boys. The intentions of the founder are still
+carried out, as recorded on a stone slab on the front of the building,
+which is a neat brick edifice, with a group of a woman and child in
+stone in a niche high up, and an appropriate verse from Proverbs below.
+
+Allusion has already been made to New Oxford Street. It extends from
+Tottenham Court Road to Bury Street, and is lined by fine shops and
+large buildings, chiefly in the ornamental stuccoed style. The Royal
+Arcade--"a glass-roofed arcade of shops extending along the rear of four
+or five of the houses, and having an entrance from the street at each
+end"--was opened about 1852, but did not answer the expectations formed
+of it, and was pulled down (Walford).
+
+At the corner of Museum Street, once Peter Street, is Mudie's famous
+library. The founder, who died in 1890, began a lending library in King
+Street in 1840, and in 1852 removed to the present quarters. In 1864 the
+concern was turned into a limited liability company. The distribution
+of books now reaches almost incredible figures.
+
+Great Russell Street Strype describes as being very handsome and very
+well inhabited. Thanet House, the town residence of the Thanets in the
+seventeenth century, stood on the north side. Sir Christopher Wren built
+a house for himself in this street. Among the inhabitants and lodgers
+have been Shelley and Hazlitt, J. P. Kemble, Speaker Onslow, Pugin the
+elder, Charles Mathews the elder, and, in later years, Sir E.
+Burne-Jones.
+
+At the west end Great Russell Street runs into Tottenham Court Road, a
+portion of which lies in the parish of St. Giles. Toten Hall itself,
+from which the name is taken, stood at the south end of the Hampstead
+Road, and an account of it belongs to the parish of St. Pancras. There
+is little to remark upon in that part of the Road we can now claim. At
+the south end is Meux's well-known brewery, bought by the family of that
+name in 1809. In 1814 an immense vat burst here, which flooded the
+immediate neighbourhood in a deluge of liquor. The Horseshoe Hotel can
+claim fairly ancient descent; it has been in existence as a tavern from
+1623. It was called the Horseshoe from the shape of its first
+dining-room. A Consumption Hospital stands midway between North and
+South Crescent.
+
+Bedford Square also falls within St. Giles's parish, but it belongs by
+character and date to Bloomsbury. The Square was erected about the very
+end of the eighteenth century. Dobie says that "Bedford Square arose
+from a cow-yard to its present magnificent form ... with its avenues and
+neighbouring streets ... chiefly erected since 1778," while it appears
+in a map of 1799 as "St. Giles's Runs." The official residence of the
+Lord Chancellor was on the east side. Lord Loughborough lived there, and
+subsequently Lord Eldon, who had to escape with his wife into the
+British Museum gardens when the mob made an attack on his house during
+the Corn Law riots.
+
+The streets running north and south are all of the same prosperous,
+substantial character. About Chenies Street large modern red-brick
+mansions have arisen.
+
+Woburn Square is a quiet place, with fine trees growing in its pleasant
+garden. In it is Christ Church, the work of Vulliamy, date 1833. It is
+of Gothic architecture, and is prettily finished with buttresses and
+pinnacles, in spite of the ugly material used--namely, white brick. It
+was at first designed to call the Square Rothesay Square, but it was
+eventually named Woburn, after the seat of the Duke of Bedford.
+
+Great Coram Street was, of course, named after the genial founder of the
+Foundling Hospital. In it is the Russell Institution, built at the
+beginning of the century as an assembly-room, and later used as
+institute and club. It was frequently visited by Dickens, Leech, and
+Thackeray, the last named of whom came here in 1837, and remained until
+1843, when the house had to be given up owing to the incurable nature of
+his wife's mental malady. He wrote here many papers and articles,
+including the famous "Yellow-plush Papers," which appeared in _Fraser's
+Magazine_; but his novels belong to a later period.
+
+We have now wandered over a district rich in association, containing
+some of the oldest domestic architecture existing in London, but which,
+taken as a whole, is chiefly of a date belonging to the late seventeenth
+and early eighteenth centuries--a date when ladies wore powder and
+patches, when sedan-chairs were more common than hackney cabs, and when
+the voice of the link-boy was heard in the streets.
+
+
+
+
+BOUNDARIES OF THE ECCLESIASTICAL PARISHES.
+
+
+ST. GILES-IN-THE-FIELDS.
+
+This parish is bounded on the south by Castle Street; east by part of
+Drury Lane, Broad Street, and Dyott Street, thence by a line cutting
+diagonally across the south-east corner of Bedford Square, across Keppel
+Street and Torrington Mews, and touching Byng Place at the north-west
+corner of Torrington Square; on the north by a line cutting across from
+this point westward, and striking Tottenham Court Road just above Alfred
+Mews; on the westward by Tottenham Court Road and Charing Cross Road to
+Cambridge Circus, thence by West Street to the corner of Castle Street,
+and so the circuit is complete.
+
+
+ST. GEORGE THE MARTYR.
+
+Bounded on the south by Theobald's Road, on the east by Lamb's Conduit
+Street (both included in the parish), on the north by Guilford Street,
+and on the west by Southampton Row (which are not so included).
+
+
+ST. ANDREW, HOLBORN.
+
+Bounded on the east by Farringdon Street from Charterhouse Street to No.
+66, which is just beyond Farringdon Avenue; on the north by Holborn and
+High Holborn from the Viaduct Bridge to Brownlow Street; on the west by
+a line drawn from the upper end of Brownlow Street across High Holborn,
+cutting through No. 292, and through part of Lincoln's Inn (taking in
+Stone Buildings, and as far as a few yards south of Henry VIII.'s
+gateway); on the south by a line from Lincoln's Inn across Chancery
+Lane, along Cursitor Street, cutting across Fetter Lane, down Dean
+Street to Robin Hood Court, across Shoe Lane to Farringdon Street.
+
+
+ST. GEORGE, BLOOMSBURY.
+
+Bounded on the south by Broad Street and High Holborn to Kingsgate
+Street; on the east by Kingsgate Street, and a line behind the east side
+of Southampton Row (including it), coming out at No. 54, Guilford
+Street; on the north by a line across the north side of Russell Square
+and along Keppel Street; on the west from thence by a diagonal line,
+which cuts off the south-east corner of Bedford Square to Dyott Street,
+and so to Broad Street.
+
+
+HATTON GARDEN, SAFFRON HILL.
+
+Bounded on the west by Leather Lane; on the south by Holborn and
+Charterhouse Street to Farringdon Road; on the east by Farringdon Road;
+and on the north by Back Hill.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+Abernethy, 78
+
+Akenside, Dr., 93
+
+Aldewych, 26
+
+Alexandra Hospital, 83
+
+Ancaster House, 34
+
+Arundel, Bishop, 60
+
+
+Babington, 33
+
+Bacon, Francis, 6
+
+Bacon, Roger, 75, 76
+
+Bainbridge Street, 21
+
+Bangor Court, 59
+
+Barnard's Inn, 49
+
+Baxter, Richard, 51, 93
+
+Bedford Row, 78
+
+Bedford Square, 97
+
+Belayse, John, 16
+
+Betterton, 25
+
+Betterton Street, 24
+
+Birkbeck Bank, 45
+
+Black Bull, 70
+
+Black Swan, 3
+
+Bleeding Heart Yard, 67
+
+Bloomsbury Market, 94
+
+Bowl, The, 18
+
+Bradshaw, 77
+
+British Museum, 88
+
+Broad Street, 18
+
+Brooke Street, 70
+
+Brownlow, Sir John, 24
+
+Buckridge Street, 21
+
+Burghley, Lord, 77
+
+Burne-Jones, Sir E., 80, 97
+
+Burton St. Lazar, 11
+
+
+Caledonian School, 67
+
+Camden, 77
+
+Carew, Sir Wymonde, 13
+
+Chancery Lane, 44
+
+Chapman, George, 16
+
+Charles Street, 67
+
+Chatterton, Thomas, 57, 70
+
+Church Street, 21
+
+Churches:
+  Christ Church, 24
+  City Temple, 54
+  St. Andrew's, 54
+  St. Ethelreda's Chapel, 64
+  St. George the Martyr, 83
+  St. George's, Bloomsbury, 94
+  St. Giles's, 8, 14
+  St. John the Evangelist's, 79
+  St. Peter's, 68
+  Moravian Chapel, 51
+  Trinity Church, 30
+
+Cibber, Colley, 93
+
+Clare House, 26
+
+Clifford's Inn, 45
+
+Coal Yard, 19, 25
+
+Cope, Sir Walter, 14
+
+Cobham, Lord, 19
+
+Cock and Pye, The, 22
+
+Cockpit, 25
+
+Coke, Sir Edward, 62
+
+College of Preceptors, 93
+
+Craven House, 26
+
+Croche Hose, 8
+
+Cromwell, Oliver, 78
+
+Cromwell, Richard, 43
+
+Cromwell, Thomas, 76
+
+Cross Street, 67
+
+Cursitor Street, 45
+
+
+De Luda, Bishop, 60
+
+Denmark Street, 18
+
+Dickens, Charles, 48
+
+Digby, Sir Kenelm, 6
+
+Disraeli, Benjamin, 81
+
+D'Israeli, Isaac, 93
+
+Donne, John, 40
+
+Drury Lane, 25
+
+Dudley, Duchess of, 14
+
+Dyers' Buildings, 49
+
+Dyott Street, 20
+
+
+Earl Street, 24
+
+Edward III., 11
+
+Egerton, Lord Keeper, 43
+
+Emery, 58
+
+Endell Street, 24
+
+Ely Place, 60
+
+Eyre Street, 71
+
+
+Fairfax, Sir Thomas, 27
+
+Fetter Lane, 51
+
+Fickett's Field, 31
+
+Field Lane, 67
+
+Fleur-de-Lys Court, 52
+
+Florio, 58
+
+Franklin, Benjamin, 29
+
+Freemasons' Hall, 27
+
+Furnival's Inn, 48
+
+Furnival Street, 48
+
+
+Gate Street, 30
+
+George and Blue Boar, 3
+
+Gerarde, 5
+
+Gloucester Street, 81
+
+Goldsmith Street, 25
+
+Gordon Riots, 51, 93
+
+Gray's Inn, 72
+
+Gray, Thomas, 94
+
+Great and Little Turnstile, 30
+
+Great Coram Street, 98
+
+Great Ormond Street, 84
+
+Great Queen Street, 27
+
+Great Russell Street, 97
+
+Gresham, Sir T., 77
+
+Greville, Fulke, 6
+
+Guildford, Lord Keeper, 46
+
+Gunpowder Alley, 58
+
+Gwynne, Nell, 25, 26
+
+
+Hale, Sir Matthew, 43
+
+Hanway, Jonas, 79
+
+Hare and Hounds, 9
+
+Hatton Garden, 60, 66
+
+Hatton, Sir Christopher, 61
+
+Hatton Wall, 69
+
+Hazlitt, 97
+
+Henry II., 10
+
+Henry VIII., 11
+
+Herbert of Cherbury, Lord, 17, 27
+
+Herring, Bishop, 40
+
+High Street, 19
+
+Hockley Hole, 71
+
+Hogarth, 8
+
+Hoggarty, Haggart, 20
+
+Holborn, 3
+
+Holborn Baths, 19
+
+Holborn, Borough of, 1
+
+Holborn Bridge, 5
+
+Holborn Circus, 53
+
+Holborn Hill, 4
+
+Holborn Music Hall, 30
+
+Holborn Restaurant, 30
+
+Holborn Town Hall, 72
+
+Holborn Viaduct, 54
+
+Homoeopathic Hospital, 85
+
+Hoole, 27
+
+Hospital for Paralysis, 82
+
+Hospital for Sick Children, 85
+
+Hyde, Chief Justice, 46
+
+
+Inns of Court Hotel, 33
+
+Irving, Edward, 67
+
+Italian Hospital, 83
+
+
+Johnson, Dr., 6
+
+Jonson, Ben, 42
+
+
+Kemble, 97
+
+Kemble Street, 29
+
+Kingsgate Street, 80
+
+Kingsway, 2, 29
+
+Kirkby, Bishop, 60
+
+Kirkby Street, 67
+
+Kneller, Sir Godfrey, 27
+
+Kniveton, Lady Frances, 16
+
+Kynaston, 25
+
+
+Lamb, Mary, 30
+
+Lamb's Conduit Street, 86
+
+Lawrence, Sir Thomas, 92
+
+Leather Lane, 69
+
+Le Lane, 21
+
+Lenthall, 43
+
+L'Estrange, Roger, 17
+
+Lilly, 58
+
+Lincoln, Earl of, 37
+
+Lincoln's Inn, 36
+
+Lincoln's Inn Fields, 31
+
+Lindsey House, 34
+
+Lisle, Viscount, 11
+
+Little Queen Street, 29
+
+Little Russell Street, 96
+
+Long Fields, 90
+
+Lord Chancellor's House, 98
+
+Lovelace, 58
+
+Lovell, Sir Thomas, 37
+
+Lying-in Hospital, 24
+
+
+Macaulay, Zachary, 86
+
+Mackworth, Dr. John, 50
+
+Manor House, 13, 18
+
+Marsden, William, 56
+
+Marshlands, 9, 22
+
+Marvell, Andrew, 16, 17
+
+Mathews, Charles, 97
+
+Matilda, Queen, 10
+
+Maurice, Rev. F. D., 85, 92
+
+Mead, Dr., 84
+
+Mercers' School, 49
+
+Meux's Brewery, 97
+
+Middle Row, 3, 49
+
+Milton, 6, 79
+
+Monmouth Street, 21
+
+Montague House, 87
+
+More, Sir Thomas, 6, 37, 43, 48
+
+Morland, 71
+
+Morris, William, 80
+
+Mudie's Library, 96
+
+
+Nelson, Robert, 81
+
+Newcastle House, 34
+
+New Compton Street, 21
+
+New Oxford Street, 9, 96
+
+Nisbett, Canon, 16
+
+Nottingham, Earl of, 27
+
+Novelty Theatre, 29
+
+
+O'Connell, 58
+
+Old Bell, 70
+
+"Old Bourne" 2
+
+Old Curiosity Shop, 35
+
+Onslow, Speaker, 97
+
+Opie, John, 27
+
+
+Pendrell, Richard, 17
+
+Pepys, 26
+
+Pindar, Peter, 27
+
+Portpool Lane, 70
+
+Portsmouth House, 35
+
+Powis, Duke of, 34
+
+Powis House, 84
+
+Pugin, 97
+
+
+Queen Square, 81
+
+Queen Street, 24
+
+
+Raymond, Lord, 80
+
+Red Lion Square, 78
+
+Romilly, Sir S., 77, 92
+
+Rose, The, 4
+
+Rosebery Avenue, 71
+
+Royal College of Surgeons, 35
+
+Royal Mews, 87
+
+Royal Society, 52
+
+Russell Institution, 99
+
+Russell, Lord, 32, 45
+
+Russell Square, 91
+
+
+Sacheverell, 6, 56
+
+St. Andrew's Street, 24, 53
+
+St. Giles's Burial-ground, 17
+
+St Giles's Hospital, 10
+
+St. Giles-in-the-Fields, Parish of, 6
+
+St. James's Street, 77
+
+Sardinia Street, 29
+
+Savage, Robert, 57
+
+Scrope's Inn, 59
+
+Serjeants' Inn, 45
+
+Seven Dials, 7, 23
+
+Shaftesbury Avenue, 9, 21
+
+Shakespeare, 77
+
+Shelley, Percy, 97
+
+Sheridan, 27
+
+Shirley, 17
+
+Shoe Lane, 58
+
+Short's Gardens, 24
+
+Sidmouth, Viscount, 78
+
+Silver Street, 94
+
+Sloane, Sir Hans, 93
+
+Soane Museum, 34
+
+Southampton Buildings, 46
+
+Southampton House, 90
+
+Southampton Row, 94
+
+Southampton Street, 93
+
+Staple Inn, 46, 47
+
+Steele, Sir Richard, 93
+
+Stiddolph Street, 21
+
+Stillingfleet, Bishop of Worcester, 56
+
+Stratford, Lord, 46
+
+Strange, Sir Robert, 27
+
+Stukeley, Dr., 83
+
+Swan Distillery, 50
+
+Swan on the Hop, 8
+
+
+Thackeray, 99
+
+Thanet House, 97
+
+Thavie's Inn, 53
+
+Theobald's Road, 81
+
+Thomson, Bishop, 40
+
+Thurlow, Lord, 85
+
+Tonson, Jacob, 46, 77
+
+Toten Hall, 97
+
+Tottenham Court Road, 97
+
+Turk's Head, The, 20
+
+Turner, Sharon, 80
+
+Tyburn procession, 8, 18
+
+
+Vine Inn, 80
+
+
+Walton, Izaak, 46
+
+Warburton, Bishop, 78
+
+Webster, John, 57
+
+Wedderburn, Alexander, 92
+
+Wesley, 51
+
+Whetstone Park, 30
+
+Whiston, 67
+
+Whitefield, 51
+
+White Hart, The, 8, 26
+
+White Horse Inn, 50
+
+White Lion Street, 24
+
+Wild House, 29
+
+Wild Street, Great, 29
+
+Wilkes, 59
+
+Woburn Square, 98
+
+Wolsey, Cardinal, 37
+
+Working Men's College, 85
+
+Worlidge, Thomas, 27
+
+Wren, Sir Christopher, 97
+
+Wriothesley, 57
+
+
+Zinzendorf, Count, 52
+
+
+THE END
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: HOLBORN DISTRICT
+
+Published by A. & C. Black, London.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Transcriber's Notes
+
+The following errors in the original text have been corrected:
+
+Page 89: In then became changed to It then became
+
+Page 103: Bambridge Street, 21 changed to Bainbridge Street, 21
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Holborn and Bloomsbury, by
+Sir Walter Besant and Geraldine Edith Mitton
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY ***
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