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| author | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-03-11 09:21:05 -0700 |
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| committer | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-03-11 09:21:05 -0700 |
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diff --git a/old/20464-h.zip b/old/20464-h.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 8d60607..0000000 --- a/old/20464-h.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/20464-h/20464-h.htm b/old/20464-h/20464-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index 4b57746..0000000 --- a/old/20464-h/20464-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7302 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" - "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> - -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> - <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> - <title> - The Project Gutenberg eBook of A Journey Through France In War Time, by Joseph G. Butler, Jr. - </title> - <style type="text/css"> -/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ -<!-- - p { margin-top: .75em; - text-align: justify; - margin-bottom: .75em; - text-indent: 2%; - } - p.l {margin-left: 25%; - margin-right: 18%; - text-indent: -20%; - } - p.r {text-align: right; - } - p.n {text-indent: 0%; - } - ul {list-style-type: none;text-indent:0%; - } - h1,h2,h3 { - text-align: center; - clear: both; - } - hr { width: 33%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 2em; - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - clear: both; - } - table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} - body{margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; - background:#fdfdfd; - color:black; - font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; - font-size: large; - } - .block {margin-left: 15%; - margin-right: 15%; - } - .blockk {margin-left: 50%; - } - img {border: none;} - a:link {background-color: #ffffff; color: blue; text-decoration: none; } - link {background-color: #ffffff; color: blue; text-decoration: none; } - a:visited {background-color: #ffffff; color: blue; text-decoration: none; } - a:hover {background-color: #ffffff; color: red; text-decoration:underline; } - .center {text-align: center;} - .figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-top: - 0.25em; margin-right: 0.25em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} - // --> - /* XML end ]]>*/ - </style> - </head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Journey Through France in War Time, by -Joseph G. Butler, Jr. - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: A Journey Through France in War Time - -Author: Joseph G. Butler, Jr. - -Release Date: January 28, 2007 [EBook #20464] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by the -Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at -http://gallica.bnf.fr) - - - - - - -</pre> - - - - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<p class="center">[Illustration: Typical French Soldier in Uniform.]</p> - -<h1>A Journey Through France<br />in War Time</h1> - -<h2>By JOSEPH G. BUTLER, JR.</h2> - -<p class="center">Member of The American Industrial Commission to France.</p> - -<p class="center">THE PENTON PRESS CLEVELAND<br />1917</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: inscription by author.]</p> - -<p class="center">Copyright, 1917, by -Joseph G. Butler, Jr., Youngstown, O. -One hundred copies of this edition -have been printed of which -this is number -39</p> - -<p class="center"><i>Second Edition</i></p> -<p class="center n"><img src="images/001.png" alt="Dedication by author" /></p> -<p class="center">TO THE MEN AND WOMEN OF FRANCE<br /> -WHO AMID INEXPRESSIBLE SORROWS<br /> -AND INFINITE CARES EXTENDED A<br /> -GRACIOUS WELCOME TO THE AMERICAN<br /> -INDUSTRIAL COMMISSION AND<br /> -TO THE AUTHOR THIS BOOK IS<br /> -GRATEFULLY DEDICATED</p> - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="toc" id="toc"></a>CONTENTS</h2> - -<table summary="toc" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="10" class="center"> - -<tr><td><a href="#I"><b>CHAPTER I</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Origin of the Purpose of the Trip.<br /> </td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#II"><b>CHAPTER II</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Crossing the Atlantic.<br /> </td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#III"><b>CHAPTER III</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Bordeaux and Paris.<br /> </td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#IV"><b>CHAPTER IV</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Meeting England's Premier.<br /> </td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#V"><b>CHAPTER V</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>The Birthplace of Lafayette.<br /> </td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#VI"><b>CHAPTER VI</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>A Great Munitions Plant.<br /> </td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#VII"><b>CHAPTER VII</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Art and Architecture of Aries.<br /> </td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#VIII"><b>CHAPTER VIII</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Along the Mediterranean.<br /> </td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#IX"><b>CHAPTER IX</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Towns in Southern France.<br /> </td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#X"><b>CHAPTER X</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>The Creusot Gun Works.<br /> </td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#XI"><b>CHAPTER XI</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Approaching the Front.<br /> </td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#XII"><b>CHAPTER XII</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Within Sound of the Guns.<br /> </td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#XIII"><b>CHAPTER XIII</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>The Story of Gerbeviller.<br /> </td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#XIV"><b>CHAPTER XIV</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>On the Main Front.<br /> </td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#XV"><b>CHAPTER XV</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Reims and the Trenches.<br /> </td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#XVI"><b>CHAPTER XVI</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Back to Paris.<br /> </td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#XVII"><b>CHAPTER XVII</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>On the Way Home—England.<br /> </td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#XVIII"><b>CHAPTER XVIII</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>On the Broad Atlantic.<br /> </td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#XIX"><b>CHAPTER XIX</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>The French Steel Industry in War Time.<br /> </td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#XX"><b>CHAPTER XX</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Where War Has Raged.<br /> </td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#XXI"><b>CHAPTER XXI</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>General Joffre.<br /> </td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#XXII"><b>CHAPTER XXII</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>The Work of Reconstruction.<br /> </td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#XXIII"><b>CHAPTER XXIII</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>French Business Organizations.<br /> </td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#XXIV"><b>CHAPTER XXIV</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>The Carrel Method of Treating Wounds.<br /> </td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#XXV"><b>CHAPTER XXV</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>A City in an Army's Path.<br /> </td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#XXVI"><b>CHAPTER XXVI</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Some impressions of France and the French.<br /> </td></tr> -</table> - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> - -<h2><a name="ILLUSTRATIONS" id="ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> - -<table summary="notetranscriber" class="center" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="10" style="border: 1px dotted gray;margin-left: 15%;margin-right: 15%;"> -<tr><td>Most of the illustrations listed, which may be seen in the scanned book -at the Bibliotéque nationale de France site (http://gallica.bnf.fr/), are -not of adequate quality and have not been included in this transcription.<br />(note of transcriber.)</td></tr></table> -<p> </p> -<table summary="illustrations" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"> -<tr><td>Typical French Soldier in Uniform</td></tr> -<tr><td>Photograph of Commissioners, Taken on Train Leaving Paris for Limoges</td></tr> -<tr><td>The Author's Passport</td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#autograph">Autograph Signatures of the Commission</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Grand Theatre, Bordeaux. Closed Until the War Ends</td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#flag">Miniature French Flag Carried by the Author Through France. The Waving -of This Flag by an American Aroused Much Enthusiasm</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Lloyd George, Who Says "England is Fighting a Battle for Civilization"</td></tr> -<tr><td>Miss Winifred Holt, "Keeper of the Light House of France"</td></tr> -<tr><td>Ancient Bridge at Limoges—Built by the Romans Two Thousand Years Ago -and Still in Use</td></tr> -<tr><td>Tapestry Workers at Aubusson</td></tr> -<tr><td>Lafayette's Deathbed, With Commission's Flag and Flowers</td></tr> -<tr><td>Monastery of St. Michael, at le Puy</td></tr> -<tr><td>Silk Tapestry Menu Used at Dinner to the Commission at St. Etienne -Col. Rimailho With 155-mm. Gun (upper) and Famous 75-mm. Gun (lower) -Perfected by Him</td></tr> -<tr><td>Women Employed in Munitions Factories</td></tr> -<tr><td>Arlesiennes—Types of Southern France</td></tr> -<tr><td>Old Roman Arena at Aries—Still Used for Bull Fights and Other -Amusements</td></tr> -<tr><td>Shore of the Mediterranean Near Marseilles. In the distance Chateau -D'If, Made Famous by Dumas</td></tr> -<tr><td>Types From the French Provinces</td></tr> -<tr><td>Monastery of Chartreuse</td></tr> -<tr><td>New 520-mm. Gun, Carrying Projectile Seven Feet in Length and Weighing -3,100 lbs., Seen at Creusot Works</td></tr> -<tr><td>German Prisoners Passing Through the Village of St. Etienne</td></tr> -<tr><td>The Lion of Belfort</td></tr> -<tr><td>Battlefield of La Chipotte, Showing Monument and Markers on Graves</td></tr> -<tr><td>Ruins of Gerbeviller</td></tr> -<tr><td>Sister Julie</td></tr> -<tr><td>Cathedral at Nancy</td></tr> -<tr><td>German Trenches Captured by the French</td></tr> -<tr><td>The Reims Cathedral Before its Destruction</td></tr> -<tr><td>Ruins at Reims. Upper and Lower Plates—The Cathedral. Middle Plate—The -Archbishop's Palace</td></tr> -<tr><td>Key of Archbishop's Palace at Reims and Bone From Twelfth Century Tombs -Opened by German Shells</td></tr> -<tr><td>Trenches Visited by the Commission</td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#king">King Albert's Address to the Belgians</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Photograph of King Albert of Belgium, with the Royal Autograph</td></tr> -<tr><td>French Marines Operating 75-mm. Gun on Shipboard</td></tr> -<tr><td>Nancy—Place Stanislas</td></tr> -<tr><td>Ruins of Village—St. Die</td></tr> -<tr><td>The Prefecture at Reims After Bombardment</td></tr> -<tr><td>Portrait in Tapestry—General Joffre</td></tr> -<tr><td>Ruins at Nancy</td></tr> -<tr><td>Trenches Occupied by French Soldiers</td></tr> -<tr><td>Proclamation Posted in Reims Just Before the French Fell Back -to the Marne</td></tr> -<tr><td>Arrival of Wounded Soldiers at Chalons, on the Marne</td></tr> -<tr><td>Proclamation by the Mayor of Reims, Issued on the day the Germans -Entered that City, September 4, 1914</td></tr> -<tr><td>First Order From the Invaders</td></tr> -<tr><td>Second German Proclamation</td></tr> -<tr><td>Citizens Warned of Danger</td></tr> -<tr><td>Citizens Warned that Hostages May be Hanged</td></tr> -<tr><td>Postal-card Painted by Artist Soldier in French Trenches</td></tr> -</table> - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="FOREWORD" id="FOREWORD"></a>FOREWORD</h2> - - -<p>Of all that has been written, or is to be written, by Americans -concerning the tragedy overwhelming the Old World, much must naturally -be descriptive of conditions in France, since that country is, among -those affected by military occupation, most accessible and most closely -in sympathy with American ideals and American history.</p> - -<p>While the ground covered by these pages may be, therefore, not -unfamiliar, the motives prompting their preparation are probably unique. -It has been undertaken at the request of friends, but not entirely for -their pleasure; since the author hopes that those who read it may see in -the patriotic devotion and courage of the French people something of the -spirit that should animate our country, whose aspirations toward liberty -the French aided even before they were themselves free.</p> - -<p>Written in hours snatched for the task amid the press of other duties, -these pages endeavor to present a simple, intimate and personal story of -experiences enjoyed and impressions gained under most unusual -circumstances and herein shared with my friends as one of the most -interesting incidents of a long and busy life.</p> - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2>A Journey Through France in War Time</h2> - -<h2><a name="I" id="I"></a><a href="#toc">CHAPTER I.</a></h2> - -<h3>ORIGIN OF THE PURPOSE OF THE TRIP</h3> - - -<p class="n"><span class="figleft"><img src="images/002.png" alt="I" /></span> -N the Autumn and Winter of 1915, a body of distinguished and -representative Frenchmen visited the United States, their object being -to make an investigation of conditions here, having in mind the great -need of France in war munitions, the steel in ingot and bar form very -much needed for the manufacture of war materials, and the numerous other -commodities necessary for prosecution of the war, which had been in -progress more than a year.</p> - -<p>The finances of France were also very much in evidence in the minds of -the visitors.</p> - -<p>The names and occupation of this French Trade Commission appear -following:</p> - -<ul> -<li> -Chairman—Monsieur Maurice Damour, -<ul><li> -Secretary of the French Deputies' Commission on Appropriations. -</li></ul> -Monsieur Jacquez Lesueur,<ul><li> -Delegate of the Ministry of Agriculture.</li></ul> -Monsieur L. Trincano,<ul><li> -Director of the Horological School of Besancon.</li></ul> -Monsieur Jacquez de Neuflize,<ul><li> -Banker.</li></ul> -Monsieur M. Chouffour,<ul><li> -of the Credit Francais.</li></ul> -Monsieur L. Vibien,<ul><li> -Director of the National Bank of Credit.</li></ul> -Monsieur E. Delassale-Thiriez,<ul><li> -Secretary of the Syndicate of Spinners.</li></ul> -Monsieur M. Saladin,<ul><li> -Delegate of the Creusot Factory.</li></ul> -Monsieur Joseph Guinet,<ul><li> -Delegate of the Chamber of Commerce of Lyons.</li></ul></li></ul> - -<p>This Commission visited various parts of the United States, principally -the great iron and steel centers, Pittsburgh, Youngstown and Chicago.</p> - -<p>Much attention was shown the party in their journey through our land.</p> - -<p>An introductory luncheon to this French Commission was given by The -American Manufacturers Export Association at the Hotel Biltmore, New -York, Tuesday, November 23rd, 1915. This luncheon was attended by a -representative number of American manufacturers and bankers, and the -object of the visitors fully discussed. On this occasion it was -suggested by Mr. E. V. Douglass, the efficient secretary of the Export -Association, that a return visit of Americans would be in order and -would assist in accomplishing the object of the visitors. This -suggestion was followed up early in 1916 and took form later on in the -appointment and selection of the members of "The Commission Industrielle -Americaine en France", the expedition being organized and financed under -the direction of The American Manufacturers' Export Association, located -at 160 Broadway, New York City.</p> - -<p>This association has an active membership of over five hundred -manufacturers, firms and corporations engaged in the production of all -kinds of fabricated materials, from steel to women's lingerie.</p> - -<p>The president of the association, Mr. E. M. Herr, of Pittsburgh, closely -associated with the Westinghouse interests, was the moving spirit in -creating and selecting the organization and formulating the plans and -policy of the Industrial Commission, even to the extent of selecting the -chairman.</p> - -<p>The membership of the commission, their occupations, business and -professional status, is given herewith:</p> - -<p class="l">M. W. W. Nichols, President; Vice President "American -Manufacturers' Export Association." President, Adjount du Conseil -d'Administration "Allis-Chalmers Mfg. Co., Inc.," New York, N. Y.</p> - -<p class="l">M. J. G. Butler, Jr., Fabricant de fer et d'acier, Vice-president -"Brier Hill Steel Company", Youngstown, Ohio.</p> - -<p class="l">M. A. B. Farquhar, President "A. B. Farquhar Co., Ltd., York, Pa." -Vice-president "National Chamber of Commerce of the United -States."</p> - -<p class="l">M. G. B. Ford, New York, Urbaniste-Conseil.</p> - -<p class="l">M. S. F. Hoggson, Conseil-Expert en matieres et materiaux de -construction; President "Hoggson Bros. & Co., Inc." New York, N. Y.</p> - -<p class="l">M. F. J. Le Maistre, Ingenieur-Chimiste-Conseil E. I. du Pont de -Nemours et Co., Wilmington, Del.</p> - -<p class="l">M. J. R. Mac Arthur, President Mac Arthur Bros., Co., New York, N. -Y.; Ex-Sous-Secretaire du Department d'Etat, Washington, D. C.</p> - -<p class="l">M. Le Dr. C. O. Mailloux, Chevalier de la Legion d'Honneur, -Ingenieur-Electricien, New York, N. Y., Ancien President "American -Institute of Electrical Engineers."</p> - -<p class="l">M. C. G. Pfeiffer, Vice-president "Geo. Borgfeldt et Co.," New -York, Importateurs et Exportateurs; Member of "National Chamber of -Commerce of the United States."</p> - -<p class="l">M. J. E. Sague, Poughkeepsie, N. Y., Ingenieur-Mecanicien. Ancien -New York Public Service Commissioner; Ancien Vice-president -"American Locomotive Co.", New York, N.Y.</p> - -<p class="l">M. E. A. Warren, Expert en matieres et precedes textiles; -Vice-president "Universal Winding Co.", Boston, Mass.</p> - -<p class="l">M. E. V. Douglass, Secretaire General; Secretaire "American -Manufacturers' Export Association."</p> - -<p class="l">M. E. Garden, Secretaire Francais.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Photograph of Commissioners Taken on Train Leaving Paris -for Limoges.]</p> - -<p>This roster is taken from the previously mentioned booklet, "The -Commission Industrielle Americaine en France." The object of the -Commission is carefully set forth in the opening, in French, and for the -benefit of readers who speak English only, a translation follows:</p> - -<div class="block"> -<p>The American Industrial Commission in France, organized under the -auspices of the American Manufacturers' Export Association, with -the cordial approval of France and of the United States, -principally for a sympathetic study of industrial and commercial -conditions in France.</p> - -<p>At the time of the visit to America by the French Commercial -Commission in the winter of 1915-1916, the idea was proposed to -different American industrial and commercial associations, to -organize a similar mission for the purpose of returning this visit -to France.</p> - -<p>This idea was taken up by the American Manufacturers' Export -Association, which, incorporated in 1911, numbers among its -membership more than five hundred organizations of great importance -in the American industrial world. This organization is co-operative -in character, with the general idea of developing and maintaining -commercial relations between the United States and foreign -countries.</p> - -<p>The importance of the proposed mission becomes more apparent -through a detailed analysis of its program, which comprises a study -of the most practical means of utilizing the resources and -experience of America for the reconstruction which France desires -to make of its communities and of its industries, during and after -the war.</p> - -<p>The Association has succeeded in organizing a commission made up of -men well qualified to render the service desired.</p> - -<p>The American Industrial Commission in France will strive to -establish an active co-operation with its French associates, with a -view of developing the commercial and industrial relation already -existing between the two nations and to make them more cordial and -more satisfactory on both sides.</p> - -<p>The Association hopes to succeed through the work of the Commission -in contributing in some measure to this happy result, and at the -same time strengthen the friendship and sympathy which has existed -between these two nations for more than a century.</p></div> - -<p>A circular issued by The American Manufacturers' Export Association is -of interest in this connection and was sent to members under -consideration and to manufacturers, soliciting subscriptions for the -expenses of the Commission. This circular is herein reproduced.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p class="center">AMERICAN INDUSTRIAL COMMISSION TO FRANCE</p> - -<p class="center">August-September, 1916</p> - -<p class="center">OBJECTS</p> -<div class="block"> -<p>Primarily, to make a thorough and technical investigation of -present conditions in France looking to the reconstruction and -re-organization of her communities and industries which will take -place during and after the war to an extent unparalleled in -history, and further, to determine the best and most complete -manner in which the United States may contribute from her resources -to accomplish these results; to arrange for largely increased -purchases of French products and fully reciprocal commercial -relations.</p> - -<p>In the cause of a thorough neutrality, it should be distinctly -understood that this undertaking is based upon cordial proposals -which came to us unsolicited, and that we stand ready to do -likewise in all other directions under similar conditions.</p></div> - -<p class="center">METHODS</p> - -<div class="block"> -<p>Commissioners of known technical experience—members of the -American Manufacturers' Export Association and others—will be -chosen to investigate the present industrial situation in France in -order to aid by American brains, energies and facilities the -rehabilitation of a structure seriously damaged, and in many -instances destroyed, by the ravages of war.</p> - -<p>Extraordinary and unprecedented facilities have been granted by the -French Government to aid the Commission in its endeavors, affording -every assurance of a successful outcome.</p> - -<p>An official account of the Commission's visit, with a summary of -conclusions regarding each phase of its investigation, will later -be reported and published for general distribution under the -authority of the American Manufacturers' Export Association.</p> - -<p class="center">REPRESENTATION</p> - -<p>It is intended to include all the industries of the United States -concerned in French trade under the following classifications:</p> - - -<table summary="movers" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="1"> -<tr><td valign="top" align="left">I.</td><td>Prime Movers: (Steam, Gas and Oil Engines; Pumping Engines, Steam and Hydraulic, Turbines, Condensers, Generators and all other adjuncts.) -Heavy Machinery: (Rolling Mills, Iron and Steel Products, etc.)</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="left">II.</td><td>Machine-Tools, Wire, Transmission and Textile Machinery.</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="left">III.</td><td>Milling Machinery: (Flour and Saw Mills; Cement, Milling, Smelting, Agricultural and Road Machinery.)</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="left">IV.</td><td>Electrical Apparatus.</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="left">V.</td><td>Transportation: (Locomotives, Cars, Naval Vessels, etc.)</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="left">VI.</td><td>Importers: (Textile, including Laces; Dry-Goods of all kinds; Porcelains, Groceries and Wines; Toys.)</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="left">VII.</td><td>Synthetic Products based on chemical processes; Chemicals, Explosives, etc.</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="left">VIII.</td><td>Bankers.</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="left">IX.</td><td>Factory Architects, Engineers and Contractors.</td></tr> -</table> - - -<p class="center">PERSONNEL</p> - - -<p>Commissioners of broad experience in their respective lines will be -chosen—men of national reputation who will lend dignity and -standing to the enterprise and guarantee a result both conclusive -and effective.</p> - -<p class="center">ITINERARY</p> - -<p>With the co-operation of the French authorities an itinerary has -been tentatively prepared covering the principal industrial cities -and sections of France and consuming, together with ocean passages -approximately 60 days. A definite program is being arranged with -the cordial aid of French chambers of commerce and the great -economical associations in the localities to be visited, and this -work is now proceeding with the authority and full approval of the -French Government. Railway and other transportation throughout -France will be provided for the American Commission by the -Government. The proposed visit has aroused intense interest on -every side, and extensive plans have been made for the reception -and instructive entertainment of the American delegation.</p> - -<p class="center">MANAGEMENT</p> - -<p>One of the commissioners will be appointed to take general charge -of the Commission on behalf of the American Export Association and -it will be the duty of this representative to collaborate with the -French authorities, appointed for this purpose, in the -consummation of plans; to assume executive charge of the work of -the Commission; and to organize the details necessary to the -preparation of the official report to be issued for the full -benefit of American industry.</p> - -<p>To insure absolute regularity and efficiency of progress the -Commission as a body, will be subject to this Commissioner General.</p></div> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p>My connection as a member of the Commission came about through the -suggestion made to Mr. E. M. Herr, by Mr. James A. Farrell, President of -the United States Steel Corporation, Mr. E. A. S. Clarke, President of -the Lackawanna Steel Company, and Mr. Willis Larimer King, -Vice-president of The Jones & Laughlin Steel Company.</p> - -<p>I was not the first choice, however, as a number of gentlemen had been -previously considered and had either declined the honor or had been -eliminated from the list of candidates. The pressure upon me from -numerous friends in the steel business to accept the task was persistent -and continuous, and upon receipt of a telegram from Mr. Farrell, telling -me, within a week of the proposed sailing of the Commission, that if I -did not accept, the great iron and steel industries of the United States -would be unrepresented, the matter was settled and I decided that it was -due to my fellow manufacturers, many of whom had been kind to me over a -long period of time and who had helped me in many ways, that I should -accept the position. I notified Mr. Herr to that effect just one week -prior to the date of sailing.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: The Author's Passport.]</p> - -<p>I had intended to take an active part in the political campaign pending -and such a trip involved keen disappointment in this connection, as I -felt that a change of the administration was necessary for the best -interests of the country. I had voted for every Republican president -from Lincoln to Taft and wanted very much to be somewhat instrumental in -the election of Mr. Hughes.</p> - -<p>The McKinley Birthplace Memorial needed my attention, as well as other -matters of a public nature, to say nothing about the various business -enterprises in which I am still active.</p> - -<p>All these obligations were temporarily abandoned and hurried -preparations were made for the long and, as thought by many, dangerous -journey.</p> - - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="II" id="II"></a><a href="#toc">II.</a></h2> - -<h3>CROSSING THE ATLANTIC</h3> - - -<p class="n"><span class="figleft"><img src="images/003.png" alt="T" /></span>HE French Line was selected by the sponsor for the trip as being the -safest route and somewhat as a compliment to the French nation. Passage -was engaged for the entire party on the Lafayette, booked to sail from -New York, August 26th, 1916, at 3 P. M., destination, the French Port -Bordeaux.</p> - -<p>I reached New York Friday morning, August 25th, and immediately set -about getting my passport properly vised by the French Consul. This was -accomplished with less difficulty than one would imagine and the -precious document finally made ready.</p> - -<p>A luncheon was given the Commission at the Hotel Biltmore at noon by Mr. -E. M. Herr, which gave the members their first opportunity to become -somewhat acquainted. Addresses were made by Mr. Herr and others -connected with the launching of the enterprise. We were told to be -neutral, and this was emphasized by the chairman from the day of sailing -until the journey was over. I received this admonition with a decided -mental reservation. It impressed me as being incongruous and entirely -out of place for a delegation of Americans to plan a visit to France and -not be in accord with that sorely stricken people. It occurred to me -also, then and there, that if the Commission expected to accomplish its -object it would be necessary to show a genuine sympathy with the Allied -cause, and I acted on this theory during the entire journey. A majority -of the members cherished the same sentiments, which most of them managed -to conceal with more or less success.</p> - -<p>Arriving at the dock of the Compagne General Transatlantique, soon after -noon on Saturday, August 26th, an inspection of the luggage was made. -This was a tedious and thorough process, requiring the unpacking and -repacking of all the contents of the trunks and valises, thereby -insuring the absence of dynamite, bombs and other destructive material. -Numerous devoted friends were on hand to say good bye and "bon voyage", -but they were permitted only on the dock.</p> - -<p>Passports were carefully examined by a group of inspectors and the -voyagers were permitted to go on board the waiting steamer.</p> - -<p>The members of the Commission were next grouped together, photographed -and motion-pictured, thus beginning the publicity considered necessary -for the success of the enterprise.</p> - -<p>The departure of the Lafayette was a stirring affair. Promptly at three -o'clock P. M. the vessel moved away from her moorings, amidst the din of -the band, the waving of flags, the whir of the movie machine, the -blowing of whistles and the cheers of friends of the passengers.</p> - -<p>Soon after sailing the members of the Commission were formally -introduced to each other and, strange to relate, with but a single -exception, no two of the party had ever met before beginning the -journey.</p> - -<p>It was discovered that several of the commissioners—myself not among -the number, spoke excellent French. This proved a great advantage to the -French-speaking members during the journey and, incidentally, to the -members who understood English only.</p> - -<p>Among the passengers aboard and attached to the Commission was Mr. -Harrison Reeves, a noted war correspondent, formerly connected with The -New York Sun. He had been several times at the Front in France in a -representative capacity, had lived a number of years in France, spoke -and wrote the French language fluently and has a fine personality. His -presence was much appreciated, his knowledge of recent events in France -and his large acquaintance with men of affairs proving invaluable to the -commissioners.</p> - -<p>On Monday, August 28th, a meeting of the Commissioners was called for -organization and consultation. At this meeting various committees were -agreed upon and appointed by the chairman. It was also arranged that -daily sessions were to be held and the work of the commission laid out -so far as possible in advance.</p> - -<p>The chairman had prepared an address outlining the duties of the -Commission, which is here reproduced.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p class="r">Aboard Steamship "Lafayette" -En-route to France,</p> - -<p class="r">August 28th, 1916.</p> - -<p>To the Members of the -American Industrial Commission to France.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:</p> - -<p>We are bound on an errand of constructive friendship. Through the -encouragement of the authorities of France and the public spirit of -American business men, we are enabled to go on this mission of good -will and service.</p> - -<p>France, in her griefs and her joys, is always a land of -inspiration; she is the classic creator and promoter of the arts -which make for civilization. In many ways American life is the -richer because France exists.</p> - -<p>What greater service can a representative company of thinking -Americans render to their land than to visit and touch at first -hand the sources of so much that is valuable to the world, and to -carry home lessons and messages which may easily be potent in -forming stronger ties in the old time intimate relationship between -our country and France.</p> - -<p>Primarily, we go, then, to learn in meeting our oversea friends -face to face, and, if our errand succeeds, to be of any service -possible. The great question then becomes: how can we serve best? -By keeping our eyes, ears, minds and spirits open and alert to the -facts and the possibilities founded on such facts which unfold -before us in the course of our visit. Our trip has been announced -as an investigation or survey of the industrial situation in -France.</p> - -<p>Our mission appears to be to examine the present economic life and -activities in France, and, in a study of such life as we find it, -endeavor to ascertain what the future is likely to bring forth for -industrial France.</p> - -<p>It is obvious that an intelligent examination of the rich economic -development of France must yield valuable byproducts of observation -and instruction. The human values in this economic structure are of -fundamental importance; civil, social and general economic progress -proceeding from the French economic effort will be of wide interest -to us.</p> - -<p>Undoubtedly in the coming years France will make extraordinary -strides in industrial progress. She is planning—indeed has already -under way, many projects of manufacture, transportation, housing, -labor-conservation and municipal life; projects of deep interest -and importance to every American business man and citizen. It may -be our special privilege to be taken behind the scenes of this -tremendous expansion, see some of the beginnings and, if we are -fortunate, to make such contribution as France may desire from the -good will, experience and certain peculiar knowledge we can offer -for her use in any way that may enable her to attain the end she -seeks.</p> - -<p>In this commission we represent something more than a body of men -who have been selected because of special distinction in fields of -their own. Each commissioner touches large circles of interest and -capacity. If the opportunity comes to us to indicate to French -business up-builders how to come into sympathetic working relations -with the enterprise and progressive affairs of our own country, we -shall achieve the high purpose of our Commission.</p> - -<p class="r">(Signed) W. W. NICHOLS,</p> - -<p class="r">Chairman of the Commission.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p>Before leaving New York a handsome booklet had been prepared and -printed. The brochure contained the names of the commissioners, their -public records, halftone portraits and a carefully prepared statement of -the objects of the expedition. Twenty-five hundred copies were printed -and were to be delivered on board the Lafayette by the printer. After -sailing, it was discovered by a thorough search that the much needed -booklets were not on board. These documents were for distribution after -our arrival in France and were sorely missed.</p> - -<p>Subsequently the booklet was produced in Paris, but in somewhat -different form, and it was near the end of the journey before the -duplicate copies were ready for distribution. The loss of the American -made edition was a serious handicap.</p> - -<p>A word or two about the personnel of the Commission. Mr. Nichols, the -chairman, is a man about sixty with a grave, clerical appearance, -formerly a professor or teacher and at one time superintendent of the -Chicago Telephone Company. A man of various business experiences, at -present connected with the Allis Chalmers Company in its New York -office. He is excessively cautious and delivered a daily lecture on -neutrality, fearing evidently that some of the members might break away -from his idea of being strictly neutral and thus thwart or defeat the -objects of the Commission. Mr. Nichols is thoroughly honest and -conscientious; he had the success of the venture very much at heart and -labored from his viewpoint to that end, priding himself in his broken -French.</p> - -<p>Mr. John R. MacArthur was a member of the Philippine Commission, is a -fine French scholar, a ready conversationalist in both English and -French, and has a keen sense of humor. He was a constant help to the -non-French speaking members of the Commission.</p> - -<p>Dr. Mailloux is an electrical engineer of established reputation and -large experience. He had been in previous commissions to all parts of -the world; a thorough French scholar, he had lived many years in France -and had done much work for the French Government. His knowledge of the -French people was invaluable to some of his fellow commissioners but was -not utilized to its full extent.</p> - -<p>Mr. Edward A. Warren, of Boston, represented the textile industry and is -well posted in that line. He was the modest man of the commission, -rarely asserting himself and deferring too much to the views of his -companions. He is possessed of rare good common sense, but, as stated, -kept himself too much in the background, thereby lessening his influence -in the work of the commission.</p> - -<p>Mr. James A. Sague, at one time vice-president of The American -Locomotive Company; is a technically educated man, genial and -companionable, and was a useful personage on the commission.</p> - -<p>Mr. A. B. Farquhar, is a real veteran of the Civil War, nearly eighty -years of age but possessing remarkable physical vigor. He was the -friend of Lincoln, heard the Gettysburg address delivered, saved his -town (York, Pennsylvania) from destruction by the Confederates, and had -much to do with the reconstruction period after the War. He labored -under the difficulty of defective eyesight, this somewhat impairing his -usefulness on the Commission.</p> - -<p>Mr. N. B. Hoggson, a gentleman of infinite jest, genial and persuasive; -a great mixer and constant worker, proved a very useful member of the -commission in diving after facts and making notes thereof.</p> - -<p>Mr. Geo. B. Ford, a well known architect of the firm of Geo. B. Post & -Company, New York, was a rather quiet undemonstrative member, but a -worker and investigator in his particular line. His observations and -recommendations should have great weight in the work reconstructing and -rebuilding the destroyed portions of France.</p> - -<p>Mr. F. J. LeMaistre, a chemical engineer, quite scientific; not -particularly unselfish in his dealings with his fellow commissioners, -was nevertheless a useful member of the commission, contributing much to -its success. He is connected with the duPont Powder Company in an -important capacity. His chemical knowledge came into good play in the -journeyings of the Commission.</p> - -<p>Mr. C. G. Pfeiffer was, physically, the giant of the Commission. An -exporter and importer, a splendid French scholar, utilized on all -occasions when a knowledge of French was needed; a hard, conscientious -worker, quite close to the chairman and of decided use to the head of -the Commission from start to finish—he frequently steered the ship from -shallow shoals and dangerous rapids.</p> - -<p>Mr. E. V. Douglass, the efficient secretary of the Commission, is -entitled to much commendation. His work was heavy and unending. To look -after a body of men, many of whom he had never previously met; to deal -with their idiosyncrasies and at times somewhat unreasonable demands, -and come through with success, was no mean task. Mr. Douglass lived in -France and had a wide acquaintance. His knowledge of the French language -was of very great service. I think all members of the Commission will -unite in saying; "Well done good and faithful servant."</p> - -<p>Mr. Emile Garden, the French secretary of the Commission, was very -helpful to Mr. Douglass as well as to the chairman.</p> - -<p>Mr. Harrison Reeves, a well known writer and newspaper correspondent, -had special charge of the publicity work of the Commission and was -present and took part in all the meetings of the Commissioners, a -trusted attache of the enterprise.</p> - -<p>Monsieur Henri Pierre Roche, a French soldier, on leave of absence, one -of the editors of the Paris Temps, was also a valuable attache. He -accompanied the commission on its travels and returned with the -commissioners to America for the express purpose of translating into -French, for final distribution in France, the report of the Commission.</p> - -<p>Our first news from home came by wireless on Tuesday, August 29th. It -disclosed that Germany was reaching out for Rumania. We also got more or -less news about the railroad troubles.</p> - -<p>At one of our meetings Mr. Nichols presented a letter which Governor -Herrick had written to him and which proved to be quite useful. We -found, wherever we travelled abroad, that the name of Governor Herrick -was a household word. This letter is reproduced as follows:—</p> -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> -<p class="r">August 24th, 1916.</p> - -<p>Mr. W. W. Nichols,<br /> -The American Manufacturers' Export Association, -50 Church St., New York, N. Y.</p> - -<p>My dear Mr. Nichols:—</p> - -<p>It gives me great pleasure to take advantage of your kind -invitation to send by the American Industrial Commission of the -American Manufacturers' Export Association, a message to Industrial -France.</p> - -<p>France has met in a way that evokes the admiration of the whole -world, even of her enemies, the recurring emergencies of this -greatest of wars. The patriotic self-sacrifice, the valor, the -uncomplaining endurance, the ingenuity which the French people have -shown during these two years of war reveal what is in truth the -"birth of a new nation". To an extent which scarcely seemed -possible, France has discovered within herself the resources of -men and materials with which to meet the demands of the struggle.</p> - -<p>Europe has learned many important lessons, not only in military -science but also in industrial efficiency, since 1914. She has much -to impart to the United States in these matters. Yet such has been -the wide-spread destruction of men and property that France, and -indeed all Europe, must needs call upon other countries after the -war for assistance in rehabilitating her industrial and commercial -life. France will need to draw upon our stores of food until all -her fields are again producing; she will need our materials for -reconstruction where war has brought waste and desolation; she will -need our machines and implements to carry on the manifold pursuits -of agriculture, manufacturing and commerce. To France, as to all -the countries where war is causing destruction, America opens her -vast stores of goods.</p> - -<p>The American Industrial Commission will be doing service not only -to Europe and to America but to all humanity, if it can discover -the ways by which the wealth that nature has so lavishly showered -upon the New World, may be most effectively poured out for the -restoration of the Old World.</p> - -<p class="r">Very sincerely yours,<br /> -(Signed) MYRON T. HERRICK.</p> -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> -<p>The time on the boat was largely occupied in meetings of the -commissioners and the formulation of plans for the work in hand; -committees were appointed and a great deal of work done.</p> - -<p>Among the various discussions, the subject of people living to a great -age in Bulgaria was brought up. Specific instances were noted; one, a -pair of Bulgarian twins both of whom lived to be one hundred and twenty -years of age and both died on the same date. It was suggested that the -two oldest members of the Commission, Mr. Farquhar and myself, should -emigrate to Bulgaria and take a fresh start.</p> - -<p>The Lafayette had, mounted on its stern, one of the favorite French guns -known as a 75-millimeter. The captain told us he had orders to fire on -the Deutschland if the submarine happened to turn up. The first officer, -under instruction from the captain, showed the operation of the gun to -the commissioners. This was very interesting; everything was done except -to fire off the gun; all the maneuvers were gone through and we -discovered on the lower deck enough shells to fight a good sized battle.</p> - -<p>On Saturday, previous to landing, a bazaar was held on the boat for the -benefit of the French hospitals. This was a very successful affair; -contributions were made or supposed to be made by all the passengers. -Among other things, I donated a quart bottle of champagne. This was sold -at auction, the first bid was one dollar, made with the understanding -that the last bid was to be no higher, but was to get the champagne. -These bids continued until the bottle finally brought seventy-five -dollars. It turned out to be a very good article with all that.</p> - -<p>We were also informed before entering port that we were protected by two -submarine destroyers.</p> - - -<p><a name="autograph" id="autograph"></a></p> -<p class="center"><img src="images/004.png" alt="Autograph Signatures of the Commission." /></p> - -<p>We discovered on arising, Sunday morning, September 3rd, that we were in -the Bay of Biscay and two cruisers were circling around and gradually -escorting us into the port of Bordeaux. We were told subsequently that -the wireless apparatus has been disconnected and we had been chased by a -submarine.</p> - -<p>The first land seen was the shore of Spain, the course of the vessel -having been diverted on account of pursuit by the submarine. At four P. -M. on Sunday a commission from Bordeaux came out in a tug boat to meet -us. This delegation consisted of the prefect of Bordeaux district, the -mayor of the city and other notables. They boarded the boat and we -entertained them with a dinner party. We reached the Bordeaux dock about -ten o'clock on Sunday evening, but did not land until the following -morning.</p> - - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="III" id="III"></a><a href="#toc">III.</a></h2> - -<h3>BORDEAUX AND PARIS</h3> - - - -<p class="n"><span class="figleft"><img src="images/005.png" alt="U" /></span>PON -going ashore, we discovered on the docks a number of stalwart -laborers. We wondered why they were not in the army, but were told they -were Spaniards. The docks were covered with motor trucks from Cleveland, -piles of copper bars, and also very large quantities of munitions and -barbed wire made by The Youngstown Sheet & Tube Company and the American -Steel & Wire Company. We also saw on the docks steel bars furnished by -our own Brier Hill Steel Company.</p> - -<p>We were first impressed by the very large number of women employed. We -visited several telegraph offices and all were "manned" exclusively by -women. We also saw women driving large army trucks and milk carts, and -women selling newspapers, some of them anywhere from seventy to eighty -years of age. Newsboys are apparently unknown in France.</p> - -<p>We were given a reception by the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce, and quite -an address was delivered by the president.</p> - -<p>We then visited the docks, which are extensive. The improvements -contemplated will make Bordeaux one of the great world ports. In going -about the streets we were struck by the number of women in mourning; in -fact I can hardly recall any women, except the servants in the hotel, -who were not in mourning. The shop windows were filled with mourning -goods and people passing on the streets were either women in mourning or -soldiers home on leave of absence, many of them crippled.</p> - -<p>We were next taken to the prison camp where the prisoners of war were -held. We happened to reach it when the prisoners were having a siesta. -There were about four thousand in the camp, some hired out to -contractors. We talked to some of these contractors, who in turn had -talked with the prisoners, and were told that a great many of them were -such voluntarily; that is to say, they were very glad to surrender when -the opportunity presented. The prisoners were mostly Germans, but there -were some Austrians and a few Bavarians. The French people never speak -of them as Germans; they always call them "Boches", which, rendered in -English, means vandal. They were fat and healthy and apparently -contented.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Grand Theatre, Bordeaux. Closed until the War Ends.]</p> - -<p>In the evening at Bordeaux a banquet was given in honor of Monsieur -Gaston Doumergue, Minister of Colonies. All the commissioners were -invited. On my left was Monsieur Etienne Hugard, Vice-president of the -Chamber of Commerce and a soldier who had been in battle within a week -previous. On my right sat Monsieur G. Chastenet, Senateur de la Gironde. -Very choice wines were served and the champagne was reserved for the -last. There was a speech by the Mayor and a response by the Minister of -Colonies. We were given information as we went along and some of this I -will record. We were told that a great many submarines had been captured -by the French in nets. The popular impression is that when captured the -submarines are left under water six or seven days, then brought up to -the surface and the bodies of the officers and seamen, who in the -meantime have died, are either burned or buried. The submarine is then -manned by a French crew and thus turned into the French service.</p> - -<p>We made some inquiries in regard to the labor situation and we were -informed that before the war a common laborer received four francs per -day, about eighty cents of our money, and that they are now receiving -five francs. The women received two francs before the war and they are -now receiving three. There are no labor unions in Bordeaux or in the -vicinity.</p> - -<p>We had here our first visit from newspaper correspondents. A number of -important Paris papers were represented, with the New York Herald, the -Chicago Tribune and other leading American papers. We met the general of -the Gironde and the marine official. We were told that at any of these -functions we were not to mention the names of the officials to whom we -were introduced, and this enabled us to talk quite freely. One of the -generals whom I met at this banquet said that the war would end in -December, 1917.</p> - -<p>On Tuesday, September 5th, the Bordeaux Fair was dedicated. The -commission was invited and we took part in the exercises. These fairs -are an annual event in many parts of France. There is a very large -theatre in Bordeaux, which has not been opened since the war. We were -given an invitation to enter it. It is certainly finer than any theatre -I had seen previously.</p> - -<p>We were then taken to the celebrated wine vaults of Bordeaux, owned by -J. Calvert & Co. and Bardin & Gustier. Some of these wines date back to -the early part of the last century and the vintages are all the way from -five to ninety years old. There were sixty thousand casks of wine stored -and about ten million bottles of champagne. The money value of the -stocks is very large. We were told that America was one of the best -customers for these high grade wines.</p> - -<p>In the evening we attended a reception to the Minister of Colonies at -Ville de Bordeaux. This was a very enjoyable affair and we met some -noted French people.</p> - -<p>Wednesday, September 6th, was the birthday of Lafayette. We had been -invited by the American Chamber of Commerce to assist in their -celebration at Paris, but were unable to reach that city in time.</p> - -<p>Instead of going to Paris on this date we visited the Chateau Margaux, -built in 1780. We were shown through the private vaults. We met the -Duchess, a most charming personage, a grandmother at the age of -thirty-five, a very plain, unassuming lady. I supposed up to the time I -was introduced to her that she was a newspaper correspondent. During the -tour through these private vaults, the guide discoursed on the making of -wine, from the planting of the vines to the bottling and selling -process. This was all very interesting.</p> - -<p>The different sized bottles of wine were described as follows: half -pints for sick rooms, pints, and then quarts, with all of which we were -familiar. He then told us of the magnum, holding two quarts; the -Jereboam, holding three quarts, the imperial, holding five quarts, and -the Nebuchadnezzar, holding the Lord only knows how many quarts—pretty -nearly as big as a barrel.</p> - -<p>In the port of Bordeaux were a great many neutral boats. On the sides of -these boats in very large letters, appeared the names of the boats and -the flag of the particular country, also the name of the country. We saw -vessels from Italy, Greece, Denmark, Sweden, Norway and Holland. We were -told that no nation at the beginning was prepared for war except -Germany. It seemed to be the unanimous opinion that the war would last -at least one year longer.</p> - -<p>Monsieur Gustier, president of the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce, -departed at one o'clock for Paris in a de luxe car. This car was the one -usually occupied by President Poincaire and known as the president's -car.</p> - -<p>Before departing we were given a noonday luncheon at the Hotel Terminal -by the "Committee General Franco-American Society."</p> - -<p>We were now for the first time told that we were being entertained by -the French government, through its different chambers of commerce. On -the way, two of the general officers of the railroad company boarded the -train.</p> - -<p>We noticed on passing through the country, that all the people working -on the farms were either old men, women or children, the young men all -being in the army.</p> - -<p>One of the things, earnestly desired by the French people is to increase -the birthrate. A bonus system has been proposed as well as all sorts of -plans for increasing the size of families.</p> - -<p>We learned here that four million men and women in France were engaged -in the wine industry.</p> - -<p>We arrived in Paris at 10:30, September 6th. The only light visible was -the moon. The Hotel de Crillon, formerly a castle occupied by the French -nobility and transformed into a very comfortable and aristocratic hotel, -was our stopping place.</p> - -<p>Early on Thursday morning, September 7th, I paid my first visit to the -American Ambulance. I met Dr. Metcalf, a former Youngstown physician. He -has charge of the New York and the Frank H. Mason wards. At the time we -were there six hundred soldiers were under treatment. Deaths run about -two per cent.</p> - -<p>This was my first visit to an army hospital and the impression will -never be forgotten. There were men in all different stages of wounds, -some of them convalescent; others on the dividing line; with others the -treatment was just starting. This American Ambulance is considered the -best managed hospital in all France. General Frank H. Mason, who had -been consul general and in the consular service more than thirty years, -had charge of it up to the time of his death. He was succeeded by -Monsieur Benet. It is a thorough business organization.</p> - -<p>On this same day I visited Mrs. Frank H. Mason, the venerable widow of -General Mason. We drove out together and I again visited the Ambulance -in her company. She has been active in benevolent work for many years -and was greeted everywhere with signs of affection. She took great pride -in the ward named for her husband. In this ward most of the soldiers -under treatment are officers.</p> - -<p>I also met at the Ambulance Major Kipling, the head of the "flying -corps". They have there about a dozen military ambulances that go to the -front and bring back the wounded. Over seven thousand have been brought -in since March. Two trips are made daily.</p> - -<p>I also met at the Ambulance Mrs. Benet, a society woman, but in nurse's -garb and actively at work.</p> - -<p class="center n"><a name="flag" id="flag"></a><img src="images/006.png" alt="Miniature French Flag carried by the Author through -France." /></p> - -<p>I next visited the Church of the Holy Trinity. This is the American -church in Paris. It was built in 1842 and is now in charge of Dr. -Watson, well known to all Americans who visit Paris. In the urn room are -the remains of General Mason and his mother-in-law, Mrs. Judge Birchard. -Her husband was in partnership with the late Governor Tod, and it was in -Judge Birchard's office that Governor Tod studied law.</p> - -<p>On Friday, September 8th, the commission was given a reception by the -Association Nationale De Expansion Economique and the Paris Chamber of -Commerce, jointly. There was an animated discussion at this luncheon -with members of the Paris Chamber of Commerce, all of it in French. Some -of the commissioners got badly tangled up, but we got through by the aid -of our French-speaking commissioners and matters were pretty well -straightened out.</p> - -<p>We were given a luncheon on this same day by the Paris Chamber of -Commerce at the Armenonville. We met at this luncheon a great many Paris -notables, many of them members of the French parliament, and others -prominent in business and finance.</p> - -<p>In the evening I visited the Rejane Theatre and saw some wonderful -moving pictures, taken by means of periscopes; they showed the inside of -the trenches, prisoners being taken, big guns firing, one mine -explosion, the visit of King George and also of King Albert of Belgium; -in fact it was the representation of a real battle and most thrilling.</p> - -<p>On Saturday, September 9th, quite to the surprise of many of the -commissioners, we were invited to inspect a noted dressmaking -establishment, the Callot Saurs, otherwise the Callot Sisters, at No. 11 -Avenue Marigon. We could hardly understand what this visit to the -dressmakers had to do with our investigating French industrial -establishments, but light was thrown on the subject when we learned that -these sisters had three thousand employees, principally women. I made -the remark that I supposed Worth was the French authority on women's -gowns, but was told that Worth was a back number. It was a remarkable -experience; we were taken into a large room and for a period of more -than two hours were shown marvelous creations in the way of women's -gowns. It really looked like a play. There were some lightning changes. -We timed some of the models and they changed their entire costumes in -less than three minutes. It goes without saying that some of the -costumes did not cover enough of the models to require very much time -for a change. It was really quite an experience, and some of the -commissioners wondered if we could not go back again the next day.</p> - -<p>In the evening we were invited to the aviation camp in the suburbs of -Paris. This is a school and turns out three hundred aviators monthly. -We were given a special exhibition and saw as many as thirty of the -aeroplanes go through maneuvers. I was struck by the deafening noise -made when the machines arose. One accident occurred while we were there; -a machine got out of order and fell to the ground, seriously injuring -two of the aviators in charge. The average is one death daily. During -the maneuvers a real war call came from the front and four of the -largest machines started off. These aeroplanes travel at the rate of -over one hundred miles an hour and can reach the front in from twelve to -fifteen minutes from Paris. Since these aviators have been guarding -Paris, the Germans have given up sending their machines over that city. -The plant at the camp manufactures fifty aeroplanes daily.</p> - -<p>After this notable aviation exhibition, we called on Robert Bliss, -Charge de'affaires at the American Embassy, Mr. Sharp being absent.</p> - -<p>On this day we had our first experience in government automobiles. Five -military automobiles were placed at our disposal with soldiers for -chauffeurs, two in charge of each machine. These automobiles are large -and powerful and hold seven persons. In them we saw many interesting -sights about Paris and in that section of France, only a few of which -may be described.</p> - - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="IV" id="IV"></a><a href="#toc">IV.</a></h2> - -<h3>MEETING ENGLAND'S PREMIER</h3> - - -<p class="n"><span class="figleft"><img src="images/007.png" alt="O" /></span>N -Sunday, September 10th, I had the good fortune to meet Lloyd George. -He had been paying a visit to General Joffre, and was registered at the -same hotel as the Commission. Through his secretary, and through the -persistence of some of the commissioners, arrangements were made to meet -this celebrated man. I happened to be the first one of the commissioners -introduced. During my youthful days, while a clerk in a company store at -Niles, Ohio, I had learned some Welsh, and in this language I greeted -Lloyd George. He seemed surprised and was kind enough to remark "That is -very good Welsh". This put me in close touch with him and I had quite a -conversation. He fired questions quite rapidly. He asked me what -business I was in and at the same time what chances Hughes had for being -elected. I told him I had been in the steel business for a great many -years, and that I was a delegate to the convention which nominated -Hughes. I told him I had heard Mr. Hughes' father preach at Mineral -Ridge, a suburb of Niles. All the other commissioners were introduced. -During the interview, Mr. George made this remark:</p> - -<div class="block"> -<p>"I hope your mission will be successful and help France; I hope you -can also help England, and when we have settled our little -difficulties, help Germany. The world is big enough for us all."</p> -</div> -<p>Mr. George spoke very kindly to me of both Hughes and Roosevelt, and at -the close of the interview said with earnestness:</p> - -<p>"We are fighting the battle for all civilization. We are fighting -for you as well as for ourselves, and you are deeply interested."</p> - -<p>I had the impression that the famous Englishman was of large stature, -but was mistaken. He is a man about five feet, five inches tall, of -slender build, with keen, penetrating eye and somewhat nervous manner; -he is certainly one of the great men of the world.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon with Dr. Mailloux, a member of the Commission, I paid a -visit to General Gosselin, formerly chief of munitions, who had been in -America on business for the French Government. He spoke very highly of -the steel material furnished by the various American manufacturing -plants, and said it would have been impossible for the French to succeed -as they had without this help. He urged the shipping of steel on -contracts with all possible dispatch. General Gosselin is an important -personage, quiet and modest. I was told he had already been of great -service to his country.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Lloyd George, Who Says "England is Fighting a Battle for -Civilization."]</p> - -<p>In the evening we visited "Le Phare de France," or "The Light House of -France." This is one of the noblest of the many humane institutions -being maintained in France by American means. It is under the management -of Miss Winifred Holt, who represents the New York Association for the -Blind, and is doing an angel's work among the men blinded in battle, of -whom there are more in this war than in any other in history, owing to -the many new methods employed and the manner in which battles are -fought. Miss Holt is known as "Keeper of the Light House," and is much -beloved in France. She is a most engaging young woman and deserves all -the kind things said about her by the admiring French. Miss Holt is ably -assisted by Miss Cleveland, the charming daughter of the late President -Cleveland.</p> - -<p>This institution is under the direct patronage of the President of -France and a committee composed of the highest officials of that -country, although the funds to support it are contributed by wealthy -Americans, prominent among whom are the Crockers, of San Francisco. In -it the men whose sight has been destroyed are being taught useful -occupations and cheered with the hope that they will be able to earn a -living. They are also taught to read letters for the blind and thus some -of the everlasting darkness to which they had been condemned by the -horrors of war is dispelled. It is said that many men who could with -difficulty be kept from committing suicide in their despair have become -cheerful since entering this institution.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Miss Winifred Holt, "Keeper of the Light House of -France."]</p> - -<p>On Monday we visited the famous china establishment Sevres. This is one -of the oldest works of the kind in France and its product is known -everywhere. The plant has now been taken over by the government and used -for making gas containers and other accessories used by the army.</p> - -<p>Following the visit to Sevres we were entertained in Paris at luncheon -by the Circle Republican. On my right sat David Mennet, President of the -Paris Chamber of Commerce; on my left sat Monsieur Laffere, Deputy -Minister of Labor. Much valuable information was obtained from both of -these gentlemen, but it was not of a nature to be recorded.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon we visited the famous Renault automobile plant. This -plant has been taken over by the government and is employed in making -war materials, automobile trucks, automobiles for military use and -munitions. The plant employs twelve thousand men and five thousand -women. They are engaged twelve hours daily, with one hour off at noon -for luncheon. This was our first visit to a munition plant and we were -cautioned to be careful in what we might record concerning what we saw. -I was struck by the earnestness of the workmen; the expression on their -countenances could be universally interpreted, "We are working for -France". After this visit to the Renault plant we inspected the plant of -Andre Citroon, a Hollander, but a generalle in Paris. He manufactures -munitions only, employing seven thousand, five hundred women and -twenty-five hundred men. In both of these plants we saw piles of steel -made in America and labeled "Youngstown", "Pittsburgh", "Harrisburg" or -"Cleveland".</p> - -<p>In the evening we were given a banquet by the American Chamber of -Commerce at the Hotel Palais d'Orsay. On my right sat Consul General -Thackara, whom I had known for a great many years. His wife was a -daughter of the late General Sherman, who said, it will be remembered, -"War is Hell". In view of what we saw later I think he was quite right. -On my left was First Secretary of Legation, American Embassy, Arthur -Hugh Frazier.</p> - -<p>The Herald gives an account of this banquet as follows:</p> -<div class="block"> -<p>Between ninety and a hundred members of the American colony in -Paris met at the Hotel Palais d'Orsay yesterday evening at a -banquet given by the American Chamber of Commerce for the -delegation of the American Manufacturers' Export Association, which -has just arrived in France.</p> - -<p>The large dining-hall of the hotel was tastefully decorated with -roses, carnations and dahlias, and hardly a seat was vacant when -dinner was served, about eight o'clock.</p> -</div> - -<p>After an excellent dinner, which began with "Tortue clair" and went on -by easy stages from "Langouste muscovite" and an excellent "Baron de -Pauillac" to the "Parfait glace Palais d'Orsay", and dessert, Judge -Walter V. R. Berry, Vice-president of the Chamber of Commerce in Paris, -and acting as chairman in the absence of the president, Mr. Percy -Peixotto, addressed the company, as follows:</p> - -<div class="block"> - -<p>We have all heard so often about the caravels of Columbus and about -the Mayflower that, perhaps a hundred years from now, in a -brand-new Palais d'Orsay Hotel, an eloquent member of the Chamber -of Commerce will refer to nineteen hundred and sixteen as the year -in which the good ship Lafayette brought over for the first time a -great American Industrial Commission to explore Darkest France.</p> - -<p>Anyone who views with a philosophic mind the tremendous cataclysm -that is convulsing the world must reach this conclusion: that its -results will be more profound, more far-reaching, more epoch-making -than were the results of the Revolution of 1789.</p> - -<p>Where, under the new conditions, will the United States find -itself?</p> - -<p>It is a difficult problem to solve; but if one cannot answer, it -will be at least a step forward to put the right questions. -Gentlemen of the Commission, it is for you, on your return to -America, to formulate these questions.</p> - -<p>Heretofore it has been impossible to get together in Europe a -delegation of Americans, each one of whom was ready to sink his -private interests. This is the first time that an American -Commission has come abroad, forgetting the individual, looking -only to the welfare of the State.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen, I congratulate you on your public spirit and your -patriotism. I congratulate you, too, on your opportunity, the -magnificent opportunity of bringing home to the American people the -urgent necessities that confront them.</p> -</div> - -<p>After the sustained applause had subsided Mr. W. W. Nichols gave a brief -account of the objects for which the American Industrial Commission came -to France. He referred to the impetus which had been given to the whole -idea by M. Damour, the French deputy and leader of the French Commission -which recently visited the United States, and declared that the -representatives of French and American manufacturers and industries -might help mutually in solving the industrial problem which affected the -sister republics. "Our aim," said Mr. Nichols, "is reciprocity in -personal conduct and co-operation which will lead to the solution of -many minor difficulties. Our possibilities are enormous."</p> - -<p>Mr. Nichols concluded with an expression of thanks for the welcome which -the Commission had received in France and an acknowledgment of the -services which the American Chamber had rendered both to France and to -the United States.</p> - -<p>On Tuesday we visited the school for maimed soldiers in Paris. At this -place the men who are unable to return to the front are taught all -kinds of trades—barbering, soap-making, shoe making, etc.</p> - -<p>On Wednesday, September 13th the Commission made a trip to Rouen.</p> - -<p>Women in knitting mills there earn four francs daily, working eleven -hours; in the webbing mills they earn five francs daily, working eleven -hours. There are no unions. A great deal of the product had been -marketed in Germany but this market was lost. At Rouen we saw a large -British steamer loaded with soldiers enroute to the front. They saluted -the American flag. The harbor was full of shipping. The boats draw -twenty feet of water.</p> - -<p>I met J. M. Belin, a manufacturer of tubes used in flying machines. I -had a very interesting talk with Monsieur Belin. He told me there were -ten thousand German soldiers being killed daily on all the fronts and -that seventy per cent of the iron and coal formerly belonging to France -was now in the hands of the Germans.</p> - -<p>On Thursday, September 14th, we left Paris for Limoges, arriving there -at five P.M. We were given a reception by the mayor of the town and the -president of the Chamber of Commerce at the Chamber of Commerce Rooms. -We were driven through the town, across the River Vienne. We saw an -ancient Roman bridge, said to be more than two thousand years old.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Ancient Bridge at Limoges—Built by the Romans Two -Thousand Years Ago and Still in Use.]</p> - -<p>Also a very old cathedral. A very interesting sight, which I had seen in -oil paintings, was that of women washing on the banks of the river. The -river was lined for nearly a mile with women all occupied in this useful -way.</p> - -<p>Limoges is the center of the porcelain industry in France. Its exports -to the United States are very large. The consul at Limoges was -instructed to do all possible to aid the Commission, and, per contra, -the Consul at Rouen was instructed not to accept any invitations or -recognize the Commission in an official way.</p> - -<p>We visited the Martin china works and saw a veritable "Bull in a china -shop", that is to say, there was a pair of bullocks hitched to a wagon -going through the warehouse while we were there.</p> - -<p>We visited the celebrated Haviland plant at Limoges, and met Geo. -Haviland, who is well known in America. With him we had quite a -discussion regarding the manufacturers at Limoges increasing their -output of low grade wares.</p> - -<p>At noon on this day we had a conference with the Chamber of Commerce of -Limoges. At this conference I was permitted to say a few words, which -were translated for the audience as follows:</p> - -<div class="block"> -<p>Gentlemen, I have been criticised by my fellow Commissioners for -not taking part in the discussions. I speak English only, and have -hesitated to enter these arguments. It seems to me, though, that -instead of trying to enter on the increase of your common product, -such as any china manufacturer in the United States can make, you -should increase the production of your high grade product. There -are high grade porcelains made in Austria and a lot of this comes -to us from Germany. Your product is known all over the world—the -name "Haviland" is a household word. In my opinion if your -manufacturers here at Limoges went into the production of the -common qualities of porcelain, it would lower your reputation.</p> - -<p>My recommendation, therefore, is that if possible you increase the -production of the artistic porcelains.</p> -</div> - -<p>In the evening a banquet was given us at the Hotel Rue de Lu Paix. On my -right was Eugene L. Belisle, American Consul, and on my left was Leon -Pinton, Vice-president of the Chamber of Commerce.</p> - -<p>The banquet table was a beautiful sight. French and American flags were -entwined. Speeches were made by members of the Chamber of Commerce and -responses by Mr. Nichols in broken French. I had a most interesting talk -with Consul Belisle. He said that one year ago the French would have -made a much better settlement of the war than today. They are now better -prepared and would demand the return of territory, including Alsace -Lorraine, the French people being educated up to this point. He said -also that he had come in contact with German prisoners and they were -discouraged and would be glad to surrender.</p> - -<p>We met at this banquet General Comby, district commander of the twelfth -regiment.</p> - -<p>Dr. Mailloux and Mr. MacArthur had a very interesting talk with General -Comby, Thursday night after the banquet was over. General Comby was in -active service at the front after the opening of the war. He described -to us particularly what he had seen of warfare at the time of the battle -of the Marne. He said it was called the battle of the Marne because of -the lack of any other name to give it, but the battle took place over a -period of some thirty odd days and covered a considerable region, much -of which was far away from the Marne. He informed us that the fresh -troops who have not before experienced the severity of battle go into a -desperate fight with the greatest valor and heroism; that after troops -have seen a long session of fighting, and have been through the -hardships of many engagements they lose, and he thinks it is natural -they should lose, much of the spirit that accompanies them in their -first engagements.</p> - -<p>He told us of the very severe losses that were suffered in these first -actions of the war; greater than at any other time. Mr. MacArthur -understood him to regard this so-called Battle of the Marne as perhaps -the bloodiest and most terrible of all battles in history. He informed -us that it was not one single battle, but a succession of almost -continuous struggles, day and night, over a period of three or four -weeks.</p> - -<p>General Comby had under his immediate command 18,000 troops, of whom he -lost 13,500 in these engagements. He said, however, that in spite of -all these losses, he had never found himself nor his troops in the -position of defeat; that defeat is largely a matter of sentiment and -valor. An army with comparatively slight losses might consider itself -defeated if it chose to do so. An army of troops like some of those he -had could be cut almost to pieces, and yet, if there was a remnant -sufficient and disposed to come together again, they formed a still -undefeated and effective body.</p> - -<p>The general spoke particularly of a battalion of zouaves that he had, -numbering about 1,000, and which was cut down until there were only 280 -left. Yet they came together undefeated and effective troops. He said -that since the Battle of the Marne the war has taken on a different -character. He considered the German defeat as taking place at and by -reason of this battle. Had they not been checked then, and turned, there -is no telling what the Germans might have done. But they were checked -and turned, which constituted their defeat, and all operations that have -and are now taking place are simply operations to follow up the victory -that was realized at the Marne.</p> - -<p>On Saturday, September 16th, we arrived at Aubusson, the centre of the -tapestry industry of France, as it has been for the past five centuries.</p> - -<p>Aubusson is located in a beautiful country. On our way to that city we -noticed women attending sheep, just as we had seen in pictures by -Millet and other painters. These women, with only a dog as companion, -knit as they tend their flocks.</p> - -<p>We arrived in Aubusson at 10:30 A.M. We were first taken to the town -hall, where there was a general exhibit of the products of the district -on view. I was greatly impressed with a portrait, in tapestry, of -General Joffre, the great French commander, idolized by the French -people and hero of the Battle of the Marne. It did not occur to me at -the moment of examining this tapestry portrait that it might be -purchased; but afterwards, while we were at luncheon, I thought possibly -it might be bought, and asked Monsieur Damour, who sat next to me, what -he thought about it. He expressed the belief that it was not for sale -and would not be permitted to go out of France. He said, however, that -he would make an investigation, and sent his secretary, who came back in -a very short time with the information that the portrait would be sold -to an American only. The price was named and without any further -negotiations I accepted the offer, making only one condition, that it -was not to be duplicated. I had the portrait taken from its frame and -brought it with me, having it retrained upon my arrival home. It is -certainly a beautiful piece of work, as well as unique; no one but an -expert could tell at first glance that it is not a portrait done in oil. -It was copied by one of the greatest tapestry artists in France from -the oil painting made of General Joffre by a noted French artist.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Tapestry Workers at Aubusson.]</p> - -<p>We visited a number of the manufactories owned by different corporations -and individuals. I was personally impressed by one piece of tapestry -which had been in the making for a period of four years and would -require at least one year longer to complete. It depicted the marriage -of Napoleon and Josephine. This piece is about thirty feet by twenty -feet in size, and contains forty thousand shades of color. It was not -for sale, and we were told it was to be held to take part in a -celebration of the Allied victory in the Champs Elysees. The French -people are so confident of victory that the windows facing the Arc de -Triomphe have already been engaged to view the event.</p> - -<p>We noticed there in the textile factories old women winding yarn, many -of them eighty years of age, but still vigorous and hard at work. A -photograph of a group of young girls was taken by one of the -Commissioners and is reproduced in these pages.</p> - -<p>A little incident occurred at the luncheon before mentioned which is -worthy of record.</p> - -<p>I noticed a coarse looking American flag suspended in the dining room. I -made inquiry of the woman who waited upon us at the table and she said -that she had never seen an American flag, but had read about it and had -reproduced what she thought was a copy from memory. It was made from a -piece of awning containing stripes, with blue stars sewn in. This -waitress said she had worked at night on it and got as near as possible -to her idea of an American flag. While it was not a work of art, it was -a homely representation of the Stars and Stripes and a tribute from an -humble citizen of France to America.</p> - -<p>In our wanderings about Aubusson we came across an old man who said he -was so old that he had forgotten his age. However, in a broken way, he -told of having taken part in the Franco-Prussian war, and remembered -having seen the great Napoleon. Inquiry made of some of the citizens -revealed the fact that his age was supposed to be upwards of one hundred -years.</p> - -<p>We visited a very old church with the distinction of having two bells -which ring simultaneously.</p> - -<p>As we left this historic place it was an inspiring sight. Nearly the -entirely populace was present and gave us any number of cheers as the -military automobiles took their departure.</p> - -<p>At seven P. M. we arrived at Bourboule and had dinner at the Palace -Hotel. We met here Col. Cosby, military attache of the American Embassy -in Paris. This is a watering place and contains a very large -convalescent hospital where soldiers, largely officers, are sent to -finally recuperate before going back to the front. The waters contain -arsenic, are highly medicinal, and known the world over.</p> - -<p>We saw at this place the adopted child of Helen Gould. We also met -another bright youth about eleven years of age, who spoke some English. -He asked one very pertinent question, "Why don't you Americans send your -navy over here to help France?"</p> - -<p>We were served at dinner by an Amazon waitress. Without measuring her -stature, I should say that she was six feet, four inches in height and -formed in proportion. Nevertheless she was very alert and active on her -feet. She waited on the entire Commission without help, quickly and -efficiently.</p> - -<p>The chief decoration was a large American flag in the center of the -table. This was made of flowers and was unique and beautiful. Bourboule -is in a mountainous country and early the next day we were taken to the -top of a mountain, a distance of nearly a mile, on what was termed the -"Funicular Railroad". We were served luncheon at the Hotel de Funicular, -on the top of the mountain, back of the town. The view from this -elevation was wonderful and worth the trip to France. When the war is -over this locality will no doubt be a leading watering place.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon we motored to Clermont-Farrand. We stopped at Mont Dore -and at Royal to see the baths, which are noted for their cure for -asthmatic affections. We were given a reception at both places, and -waited upon by very handsome waitresses wearing most artistic hats. I -tried to secure one of these as a souvenir, but without avail, as I was -told they were made especially for this institution and were of a -special design.</p> - -<p>On this journey we saw many interesting sights. Carts with donkeys -attached, resembled somewhat the jaunting car in Ireland. Wild flowers -were in great abundance and we stopped many times by the wayside to -purchase them from the little girls. We stopped at Salvador Rock and -listened to an echo which was remarkable; standing on the crest of the -rock, tones almost a whisper could be heard reverberating for some time. -The rock was surrounded by trees resembling very much the pine in -Arizona and the Lake Superior region.</p> - -<p>Next we visited a fine old castle, Chateau Miral, and arrived at -Clermont-Farrand at seven P. M. Here we were given a banquet at the -Grand Hotel by the Chamber of Commerce. We met a number of prominent -people, among others Ferdinand Ferryrolles, who manages several hotels -at Monte Carlo. We also met Emmanuel Cheneau, Henri Roche, editor of the -Paris Temps, Etienne Morel and Leon Bernardaud.</p> - -<p>We left Clermont-Farrand early on Monday, in military automobiles for -St. Etienne.</p> - - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="V" id="V"></a><a href="#toc">V.</a></h2> - -<h3>THE BIRTHPLACE OF LAFAYETTE</h3> - - -<p class="n"><span class="figleft"><img src="images/008.png" alt="T" /></span>HE question of visiting the birthplace of the immortal Lafayette came -up at this time, and some of the members insisted on a trip to this -historic spot. The majority carried and we made a detour of nearly one -hundred miles to reach St. George's D'Aurac, near which stands the -stately Chateau Chavagnac, object of our reverent curiosity. At the time -of our visit it was owned by Mr. de Sahame, son of the niece of -Lafayette, bearing the title of Marquis of Lafayette, and residing at -Neuilly, near Paris. We were met by the mayor of the small village, -quite near, and the caretaker of the Chateau, which was in a very good -state of preservation, but not at that time occupied. The prefect of the -district appeared soon and the Commission presented to the ownership of -the Chateau two very beautiful flags, one an American and the other -French, together with a large bouquet of palms and roses. These flags -and the floral offering were placed in the bed where Lafayette was born. -Mr. Nichols, our Chairman, then made the following address:</p> - -<div class="block"> -<p>In a large sense, this auspicious occasion is the most appropriate -event of our trip, because it brings us closer to that which has -been a constant bond of sympathy between the French and American -people. We are more than happy to stand here in the home of our -Washington's intimate friend, where he spent his days of peace, and -whither he retired when cares of state weighed too heavily upon -him. It is not hard to believe that here also was the birthplace of -his greatest thoughts, the beginnings of his noblest aspirations.</p> - -<p>Lafayette, the apostle of liberty, came to struggling America at -the opportune time, and in ways that every school child at home -knows, cast his lot with ours in that perfect sympathy which -constituted Washington's greatest support. History's record, -complete as it is, cannot account for the countless things -Lafayette did for us, which many times perhaps changed the course -of events in our favor and brought us that freedom of thought, that -liberty of action, which he ever craved.</p> - -<p>When we stop to reflect that it all began here, our souls may well -be moved beyond the mere expression of words. After a century and a -quarter we treasure Lafayette's memory and it grows with an -increasing realization of the merit of the assistance he rendered -us. Our two nations today are the embodiment of the principles he -stood for, perhaps was a great factor in inculcating in the minds -of our ancestors, to be transmitted by inheritance to us. We -rejoice that he lived; that a land like France gave him birth; that -the friendship he began continues to make the world better.</p> - -<p>May we realize the dream ever present with him, to judge from his -actions, which speak more insistent than words, of a mutuality of -our national interests; that hand in hand the two great republics -may together work out their great destinies, together set an -example for the world worthy of its emulation, an example of a -fraternity of purpose and attempt which by its very strength will -compel the better things of life.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Lafayette's Deathbed, with Commission's Flag and -Flowers.]</p> - -<p>Gentlemen: In reverence to the memory of our great compatriot, let -us devote a moment to silent contemplation of the great thoughts -that inspired the great deeds of our great brother, Lafayette.</p> -</div> - -<p>There was a response by the prefect and the mayor of the nearby village.</p> - -<p>This visit was an historical event. I had made up my mind, and so talked -with another member of the Commission, that it would be a fine thing to -purchase this property, endow it with a fund which would keep it always -open as a museum and present it to the French Government. Since our -return to America the property has been acquired by a group of prominent -American men and women, headed by Mrs. William Astor Chanler, for the -same purpose that some of the members of our Commission had in mind, a -most worthy project. This birthplace is known as The Chateau de -Chavagnac-Lafayette. It is the hope of the purchasers to make it "A -French Mount Vernon".</p> - -<p>The Marquis Gilbert de Lafayette was born at the Chateau de Chavagnac, -in the French province of Auvergne, on September 6th, 1757. It is some -four hundred miles from Paris, in southern France. The crowning -architectural feature of this little settlement of some five hundred -souls, it stands, sentinel-like, among the sixty red-tiled roofs of the -village. The little church at which Lafayette worshipped is only a step -from the Chateau gates.</p> - -<p>The original Chateau de Chavagnac dates from the fourteenth century. It -was destroyed by fire in 1701, but was very soon afterward rebuilt from -the original plans.</p> - -<p>It is the purpose of the French Heroes' Fund to make this Chateau in -France a complement to Mount Vernon. In it are to be kept records of -Colonial days, as well as those of the present war. There is to be a -room dedicated to the British; one to the Legion; another to the -American Ambulance and still another to aviation. It is also to be made -a home for orphans and for soldiers who have been disabled.</p> - -<p>After a collation, we visited the reception room, which contains a -number of old-time engravings, facsimiles of the Declaration of -Independence, a bronze bust of Lafayette, a marble bust of Lafayette and -a bronze bust of Franklin. Overhanging the bed in which Lafayette was -born is a fine portrait of Benjamin Franklin. Although Lafayette died in -Paris, the bed in which he died was brought to the Chateau, and we were -shown this also.</p> - -<p>Among other things in the reception room was a large placard with the -heading "North American United States Constitution Explained". There was -also a billiard table which looked as if it had seen much service.</p> - -<p>I have alluded to this visit to the birthplace of Lafayette in a little -address which I made at Besancon, and which will appear later.</p> - -<p>Some photographs of the Commission were taken before leaving. Quite a -large sum was raised among the Commissioners and given to the mayor to -be distributed among the poor of the village.</p> - -<p>Our next objective was LePuy, where we arrived at 4:30 P.M. and had -breakfast, so-called, although the detour to the birthplace of Lafayette -made us about ten hours late. We were met by the prefect, the mayor and -the president of the Chamber of Commerce. We visited a church built on -the top of a rock, the ascent to which was by three hundred -perpendicular steps, two feet wide. It was said that these steps were -built in this way as an opportunity for penance, it being a very hard -operation to climb to the top. Some of our people made the ascent, -myself among the number. When we reached the top we were rewarded by a -magnificent view of the surrounding country. At the highest point is a -statue of the Virgin Mary, made of Russian cannon, recast after capture -by Napoleon.</p> - -<p>While at LePuy we were shown the only spot where the immortal Caesar was -defeated; otherwise his reign was triumphant.</p> - -<p>Leaving LePuy we arrived at St. Etienne at midnight, after a most -perilous ride. A banquet had been planned at St. Etienne, but had been -postponed. On the following day we visited the establishment of the -Giron Brothers, ribbon manufacturers. This establishment dates back to -the very early part of the Nineteenth century, and at present has two -thousand employees, nearly all women. Its trade is largely with the -United States. On account of the labor situation the factory is working -only half time. The men are at war, the women in the munition plants and -factories. Wage earners make four, and not to exceed five, francs per -day and consider themselves well paid.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Monastery of St. Michael at Le Puy.]</p> - -<p>We also visited the silk manufacturing plant of P. Staron, Jr. We saw -here the most beautiful silks and brocades. Among other fine things were -ribbons in the Fleur de Lis design, the national flower of France. On -account of the war the employees at work were few.</p> - -<p>Here we met Mr. Wm. H. Hunt, American consul and the last appointee of -President McKinley before his untimely death.</p> - -<p>At St. Etienne I went into a barbershop to get a shave, sat down in the -chair, and a youth not over twelve years of age started to lather me. I -supposed, of course, that he was getting me ready for the barber, who -would soon appear; instead of that he proceeded with the work himself. -He spoke a little English, telling me his father was in the army and he -was running the business. He gave me one of the best shaves I received -in France.</p> - -<p>My next experience with the youth of France was with a boy chauffeur. -Our military automobiles had disappeared for the time being and I -engaged a taxicab.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Silk Tapestry Menu Used at Dinner to the Commission at -St. Etienne.]</p> - -<p>The boy who ran this was not over eleven or twelve years of age, but he -did the work well.</p> - -<p>On the evening of September 19th, we were given a banquet by the Chamber -of Commerce at St. Etienne. It was a very successful affair. I met here -Theodore Laurent, a prominent steel manufacturer whom I had met at -Brussels in 1911, when the American Iron and Steel Institute made its -famous visit to England and the continent. At this banquet we met also -the prefect and other notables.</p> - - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="VI" id="VI"></a><a href="#toc">VI.</a></h2> - -<h3>A GREAT MUNITIONS PLANT</h3> - - -<p class="n"> -<span class="figleft"><img src="images/009.png" alt="W" /></span>EDNESDAY, September 20th, we left St. Etienne for St. Charmond to visit -the plant at which Mr. Laurent is director general. His company owns -several plants, this being the most important and one of the oldest -manufactories of cannons and munitions in France. We met here Colonel -Rimialho, who is the inventor of the seventy-five-millimeter gun and has -general charge of the artillery and munitions manufactured in France. -The plant at the present time makes only cannon and munitions. There are -no blast furnaces at the works. They use the Siemens-Martin process and -melt about seventy-five to eighty per cent. scrap. They also use a -quantity of vanadium steel imported from America and furnished by the -American Vanadium Company. We were told that France produces five -hundred thousand shells or projectiles daily. This plant turns out -twenty-eight thousand of this number, besides one hundred and twenty -thousand fuses, or detonators. Before the war the works produced one -hundred and twenty thousand annually; they now make this number daily. -They have sixteen thousand employees, five thousand of whom are women. -We saw here a number of Amazonian Junos doing men's work while wearing -leather aprons, and were informed that they were fully as efficient as -men and are paid the same wages.</p> - -<p>We saw at these works a number of the now famous "caterpillars", an -armored car moving on a broad track which it lays down as it goes. This -machine was invented by an American, and I have seen it at work on the -Pacific coast.</p> - -<p>After an examination of the works, we were taken to the suburbs of the -town and a special test of the big guns was made for our benefit, the -firing going to the hill. We were instructed to put cotton in our ears -and keep our mouths open, and faithfully observed this injunction. The -seventy-five millimeter fired twelve shots in thirty-six seconds, by my -watch. The target was brought to us afterwards and we were shown that -the projectiles went straight through without a side dent. We were also -treated to the firing of some of the very large guns, and by the time -this was over I was ready to visit an ear doctor, if there had been one -convenient.</p> - -<p>When this interesting exhibition was ended we were entertained for the -first time in a real French home. Mr. Laurent took us to his home and -gave us a luncheon. We met Mrs. Laurent and two daughters, but the four -sons had joined the colors. Two of them had already lost their lives in -battle.</p> - -<p>We met at this luncheon Sir Thomas Barclay, of London, who has taken an -active part in the humanitarian work of England, with headquarters in -Paris.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Col. Rimailho with 155-mm. Gun (upper) and Famous 75-mm. -Gun (lower) Perfected by Him.]</p> - -<p>The party reached Lyons at 6:20 P.M. by military automobiles and at once -had a conference with Mayor Heriot. It appeared that there was some -discussion between this official and the president of the Chamber of -Commerce as to who should head the entertaining. We were greatly -impressed with M. Heriot, but he took a night train for Paris and we -were left in the hands of the Chamber of Commerce. We were given a -reception by this body, and spent the night at Lyons.</p> - -<p>On the afternoon of the following day we visited the textile museum. We -also visited the government munitions plant, which was formerly the -Lyons fair, but had been taken over by the government, stripped of -everything and made the most efficient munitions plant in all France. We -met Thadee Natanson, Director General. He is a wonderful character. Our -impression of him was very good and he later addressed us in strong but -broken English and said he hoped he would learn something from us, and, -if we had, in visiting the plant, any suggestions to make, he wanted to -hear them. The plant employs twelve thousand, one-half women and the -remainder men. The product is shells, cartridges, fuses, and detonators. -We were told that this is the only place in France where a projectile is -entirely completed, ready to fire. We met Andre Foulcher, engineer of -the plant. The production of this plant is twenty-eight thousand shells -and twenty-five thousand fuses daily. We were told that here the women -were more efficient than the men. At these works we were taken into the -most dangerous part of the plant, where frequent explosions have -occurred.</p> - -<p>We met here George Martin, editor of the Paris "Progress", and also -Capt. J. Barret, who had recently lost in the army his only son.</p> - -<p>Our tour of Lyons included the Lyons electric light and gas plant. On -this side trip we met an entire regiment of Algerian soldiers, black as -the traditional ace of spades, but fine specimens of manhood. Their -uniforms were almost identical with the uniform worn by our soldiers in -the Civil War. They wore light blue overcoats, such as Governor Tod -furnished the first company which marched from Youngstown.</p> - -<p>Over the door of the gas plant were the words "Defense D'Entrer", with -skull and cross bones underneath and with the further words, "Danger de -Mort".</p> - -<p>At this place we received our first home letters, which were very -welcome.</p> - -<p>In the evening we were given a banquet by the Chamber of Commerce. The -invitation received from the Lyons Chamber, translated, is as follows:</p> - -<div class="block"> -<p>Lyon, Chamber of Commerce.</p> - -<p>The Lyons Chamber of Commerce beg you to be so kind as to accept a -private invitation at dinner which it will give to the members of -the Commission of the United States on Thursday, September 21st, 7 -o'clock P. M. at Berrier and Millet, 31 Bellecour Square. -Business dress.</p> - -<p class="r">R.S.V.P.</p> -</div> - -<p>We were welcomed in English by the vice-president of the Chamber of -Commerce, and discussed the following menu:</p> - -<p class="center"> -Supreme of Lobster A l'amiral<br /> -Tenderloin a la bearnaise<br /> -Artichoke Hearts<br /> -Chantilly style<br /> -Roast Truffled Bresse Chicken<br /> -Scotch Salad<br /> -Havana Ice<br /> -Desert<br /> -Wines<br /> -Fleurie (Beaujolais) in Decanter<br /> -Pouilly (Maconnais) in Decanter<br /> -White Hermitage 1904<br /> -Chateau Vaudieu 1904<br /> -Saint-Peray frappe</p> - -<p>On my right was General d'Armade, one of the noted generals of the -French army, who had seen service all through the present war. On my -left was M. Farrand. My talk with General d'Armade was most interesting. -He said the best soldiers of both the French and the German armies were -gone; that they had been destroyed in the early part of the war and that -the soldiers now fighting were civilians who had been trained for two -years. He declared that a French soldier was always a French soldier. He -had no doubt of the ultimate victory of the Allies. In addition to -General d'Armade's experience in the present war, he had been in Morocco -and the Sudan with important commands.</p> - -<p>On Friday, the day following, we were entertained by the directors of -the Lyons Fair. On my left was Charles Cabaud, Russian Consul General. -On my right sat Dr. Jules Courmont, who in time of peace is Professor of -the faculty of medicine and physician to the hospitals of Lyons, but who -now, in time of war, is in the War Department, has the rank of general, -and is charged with the hygiene of the army.</p> - -<p>We found him a very competent and interesting gentleman. He accompanied -us in the private car which the railroad furnished us, and went south -with us some distance to where there is a large government garrison, and -where he had an inspection to make.</p> - -<p>During the trip on the train Dr. Courmont told us many interesting -things about the hygiene of the army. He said that the warfare of today -is very different from the warfare of former times in respect to the -hygiene; that contrary to what was commonly supposed, the hygiene of the -trenches is excellent; that the soldiers are in better condition, most -of them, than they are in time of peace. They are more regularly and -better fed, and are strong, well nourished and hearty. The experience -has been the regeneration of very many of them physically. This is due, -he says, to the fact that they have their food served to them regularly -and abundantly; whereas in former wars it was a matter of the greatest -difficulty for troops to be provisioned.</p> - -<p>We asked him whether or not the water in the trenches was harmful to the -soldiers and he replied that they had very little rheumatism, and the -men did not seem to suffer from it. He said there was almost, or in -fact, no smallpox, and there was comparatively no typhoid. All of the -soldiers are innoculated against typhoid, receiving on the first -innoculation three or four injections, and subsequently being -innoculated about once in every six months, receiving then two -injections. This is for soldiers, whereas civilians are usually -innoculated about once every three years, if it is desired that they -should be kept immune from typhoid. He says they use with best results -the system of Dr. Vidal, of Paris, employing a serum in which the -bacteria have been destroyed by heat rather than by boiling. They find -the effect of this serum much better than that of others. He says that -tuberculosis does, of course, exist, because tuberculosis exists among -most civilized peoples. There is even more tuberculosis now among the -troops than at the beginning of the war; but this is not due to an -increase of tuberculosis, but is due to the fact that the later levies -of troops have included many soldiers who at the beginning would not -have been accepted, because they either had the disease or had a -tendency toward it.</p> - -<p>He then spoke about the effect of various weapons in use. He was asked -whether the modern rifle wound was serious. He said it was either so -serious as to kill the soldier by passing-through the brain, the heart, -or some other vital part, or else it was a matter of more or less -indifference. If a rifle ball went through the fleshy part of the body, -you could pretty safely say it was not a grave wound, because the -bullets passing through the air are so cleansed and heated that when -they go through the fleshy part of the body they leave no germs and do -little harm unless they fracture a bone. We asked if they did not carry -into the wound infected pieces of the soldiers' clothing, and he said -no, that they did not find that to be the case; that the bullet went -through so quickly that it separated the clothing, and went through the -flesh clean. He even stated that a bullet could pass through the lungs; -that the wounded soldier would spit up blood, but that when attended to -at once, and the wound dressed, it would be a matter of only eight or -ten days when he would be again in fairly good condition. He said, -however, that wounds from fragments of shrapnel were of quite a -different character; that they were ragged, unclean and usually gave -much concern. He said, also, as a matter of fact, that the gun or rifle -was performing a less and less important function in warfare. That many -were even in favor of abandoning the rifle entirely as a weapon. That -the war, as carried on today, is carried on in personal assaults mainly -through the effectiveness of the grenades, handknives, revolvers and -similar weapons; that the trenches and trench warfare are not suited to -close hand-to-hand encounters, as there is not usually room enough to -manipulate a gun and bayonet. (This agrees with what was told us by our -Negro friend, Bob Scanlon, whom we met at Clermond, and who said all he -wanted and carried in an assault or a fight were grenades, a knife and a -good club, preferably of iron.)</p> - -<p>The doctor said that for the warfare of today reliance is mainly upon -the mitrailleuse, which fires 300 shots a minute. He says that nothing -living within the range of these guns, and exposed to them, can possibly -stand. This is the small arm which had such great effect for the French -in the first days of the war. The Germans had very few guns of this kind -in the beginning, but they have since provided themselves with them. He -said that outside of these guns the most effective are the famous 75 mm. -and the 155 mm. rifles. He asked us to recall the fact that both of -these guns were fired for our benefit at St. Charmond, under the -direction of Col. Rimailho, whom we had the pleasure of meeting there, -and who was one of the important men co-operating in building the "75", -and who was, himself, the inventor and author of the "155". These are -the guns of lighter caliber which do such effective work in the field. -Of course, in addition, the French are also using guns of very large -caliber, for instance the 350 mm. These, of course, are for the -reduction of forts, and the enemy's line prior to assault.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Women Employed in Munitions Factories.]</p> - -<p>Dr. Courmont wanted to know whether we had seen the new armored -caterpillar cars which they were preparing, and we told him we had seen -them at St. Charmond. He said they were to be equipped with one "75" gun -and with two or three mitrailleuses (the rapid fire gun), and that an -equipment like this, armored against the shrapnel of the enemy, would -doubtless be most effective for the French, as a similar caterpillar had -been for the English.</p> - - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="VII" id="VII"></a><a href="#toc">VII.</a></h2> - -<h3>ART AND ARCHITECTURE OF ARLES</h3> - -<p class="n"><span class="figleft"><img src="images/010.png" alt="W" /></span>E left Lyons for Arles, in the military automobiles, passing through -and stopping for a brief time at Tarascon, made famous by Daude in his -novel, "Tartarin of Tarascon". Here we were given the usual reception -and pretty much the entire population of the town turned out to greet -us. The following leaflet by the Arles Chamber of Commerce outlines the -program:</p> - -<p class="center">Reception of the Economical Commission of the United States</p> - -<table summary="schedule" cellspacing="3" cellpadding="0"> -<tr><td valign="top"> </td><td>Friday, September 22nd</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">5 o'clock 25'<br />P.M.</td><td valign="top"> -Reception of the Commission at the station -by the Chamber of Commerce and -the officials of the City of Arles.</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">7 o'clock 45'<br />P.M. -</td><td valign="top">Dinner given by the Chamber of Commerce -(Hotel Du Nord).</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"> </td><td valign="top">Saturday, September 23rd</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">8 o'clock 30'<br />A.M. -</td><td valign="top">Leave the Forum Square for the visit -of the monuments and museums of Arles.</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">11 o'clock 25'</td><td valign="top">Luncheon given by the Chamber of Commerce -(Forum hotel).</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">1 o'clock 10"<br />P.M. -</td><td valign="top">Leave Forum Square for the station.</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>At the evening banquet at the Hotel Du Nord, on my right was J. E. -Agate, an English army officer. He had been in the quartermaster's -department, engaged in purchasing supplies for the English army. On my -left was M. Bonnet Guillaume, vice-president of the Chamber of Commerce, -and who lives at Tarascon. We met at this banquet Henri Brenier, advance -agent of the Marseilles Chamber of Commerce. He distributed a handsome -booklet prepared by the Marseilles Chamber.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Arlesiennes—Types of Southern France.]</p> - -<p>Mr. Geo. B. Ford, of the Commission, delivered the following address -before the Arles Chamber of Commerce:</p> - -<div class="block"> -<p>Yesterday afternoon I went to the Arena alone, and climbed up as -high as I could and studied it while the sunset shadows crept high -and higher and the great arches gradually faded into gloom.</p> - -<p>The wonderful history of Arles passed before me. I saw it as the -great imperial Roman city dominating the valley. I saw it during -the Christian times in the building of the portal of St. Trophime, -and saw it during the Gothic times leading in the history of the -Church, and then again in the Renaissance presenting the world with -the most beautiful example of the work of Mansard, the City Hall.</p> - -<p>It seemed that most that was best in the history of architecture in -France was epitomized in the monuments of Arles. To the connoisseur -in America, Arles is well-known. I remember many years ago their -pointing out to me the portal of Trinity Church in Boston, saying -it was inspired from a church called St. Trophime in a town called -Arles in France. The architect of that church, Richardson, our -greatest American architect, was a great lover of Arles. He came -here often for inspiration. Through him, Arles had a great -influence on American architecture of the time.</p> - -<p>Recently there was in New York City a competition among leading -architects for a great court house. The design which won was -frankly admitted by its author—Guy Lowell—to be inspired by the -Arena of Arles, of which he is a most enthusiastic admirer.</p> - -<p>A number of outdoor theatres have sprung up of late throughout -America. The Roman theatre at Arles is their model.</p> - -<p>There is an impression prevalent in France that the average -American thinks only of business; that the higher things of life -have no interest for him. It is far from true. The members of this -Industrial Commission are truly representative of the average -interest and point of view of the American business man, -manufacturer and technical man, and yet each one of them has gone -out of his way to express his delight in his visit to Arles. All -consider it one of the most valuable parts of the trip. Yes, a -marked change is coming over the American business man. He is -recognizing that there is far more in life than being tied to his -job without a let-up. He is relaxing now and then, and in his -relaxation he is discovering the France that his wife and daughter -know. He should come to Arles. He has begun to come a little. We -hope he will come in far greater numbers in the future. It remains -for you to spread broadcast the virtues of Arles. We sincerely hope -that you will miss no opportunities to do this for we believe it -will tend to weave another important bond of understanding and -sympathy between the two countries.</p> -</div> - -<p>We visited Angna Castle in Arles, to which the Popes were once exiled, -even yet known as the "Home of Popes", or "Popes' Castle".</p> - -<p>Arles contains convalescent hospitals, and Red Cross girls, with their -cans, having a slot, were collecting coins everywhere. Arles is an -ancient Roman town. We visited the famous Hotel de Ville, or Town Hall, -which dates back to the Seventeenth century. The architect was Mansard, -for whom the Mansard roof, known in America, is named. The Town Hall is -covered by a curious roof, with supports which hold up the entire -building. In the square is an Egyptian obelisk four thousand years old.</p> - -<p>We visited another ancient museum and were shown among other things a -very ancient lead pipe six inches in diameter and in a good state of -preservation. In a sarcophagus of the second century were the remains of -a Roman musician, with an inscription thereon. In addition there was a -statue of Emperor Augustus and a statue of Venus of Arles, with some -original and some restored jars and vases more than two thousand years -old.</p> - -<p>We visited an old church founded by St. Trophime, noted in the Bible in -the epistles of St. Paul. Barbarossa, Emperor of Germany, was crowned in -this church. I was struck by a tablet of "Moses crossing the Red Sea" on -one of the walls. This tablet, a most beautiful and interesting piece of -art, reminded me of an experience of my younger days which served to fix -in my mind the celebrated passage of the Israelites in a manner the -effectiveness of which would be envied by the average Sunday School -teacher, even if it was not entirely due to reverence. I had often told -this story to my friends and again told it that evening to some of the -members of the Commission, who seemed to enjoy it well enough to justify -its repetition here.</p> - -<p>About the close of the Civil War in 1865, I paid a visit to a younger -brother who was managing a small charcoal blast furnace in Tennessee. I -had never been in this part of the South before and had received minute -instructions as to how to find the place.</p> - -<p>Embarking at Nashville on a Cumberland river boat, after a day's ride, I -left the boat in accordance with my brother's instructions at a small -landing and, crossing the river on a ferry, remained over night at a -cabin occupied by a pious old Negro. A horse was sent me at this humble -abode the following morning.</p> - -<p>Some little time after finishing a hearty meal composed almost wholly of -corn pone, the old gentleman brought out a time worn Bible and read two -or three chapters. He then announced that we would all unite in prayer. -We all kneeled down. He invoked the Divine blessing upon the rulers of -the earth, the President of the United States and almost everything else -movable and immovable, on land, under the sea and over the sea. After he -had prayed fully a half hour, tired and sleepy, I became impatient and -nudged the half-grown boy next to me with a query as to how long the -prayer would last. Meantime the boy had fallen asleep. However my nudge -woke him up and, repeating my inquiry, I was answered with the -question:—"Has pap got to where Moses crossed de Red Sea"? "No, he has -not got to that yet," was my answer. "Well, when Pap gets to where Moses -done crossed de Red Sea, he am jes half through."</p> - -<p>We saw also in this church the tomb of Montcalm, grandfather of -Montcalm, the French general who fell at the taking of Quebec in the -French and English war during the Seventeenth century.</p> - -<p>We visited Roman walls and ramparts built by Julius Caesar, and saw an -ancient cemetery directly opposite a munitions factory, which we thought -was a very appropriate location. This cemetery had been pillaged and the -ancient things carried away as relics.</p> - -<p>We also visited, while at Arles, a convalescent camp, and saw a number -of Moroccan soldiers.</p> - -<p>A point of great interest is the ancient Roman Theatre, built by -Augustus Caesar and containing a statue of that Emperor. Another is the -Arena, built in the first century, restored and reconstructed, and now -used as an outdoor theatre. Sarah Bernhardt played there two years ago -in a Shakesperian representation. It was used in the olden days for the -entertainment of royalty, for gladiatorial contests, and battles of wild -beasts. It is frequently used now for bull rights, as this part of -France is near the Spanish border.</p> - -<p>In front of the Hotel Du Nord is the statue of Mistral, the great poet -of Provence.</p> - -<p>We visited the Palace of Constantine, Roman Emperor in the fourth -century. In this place remains a pool with means for heating water which -would be considered in good form at the present day.</p> - -<p>Arles is a famous centre of architecture and has been visited by all the -great architects of the world. Here many received high inspiration, as -stated in the address given by Mr. Ford.</p> - -<p>En route to Arles we had noticed an old Roman theatre in the village of -Orange. We noticed also, which seemed to be common in South France, that -the horses wore a leather horn on the tops of their collars. This is -said to be a usage handed down from the Middle Ages. In this region we -passed whole train loads of grapes, which looked from a short distance -like carloads of anthracite coal.</p> - -<p>Our next destination was Marseilles, and here Henri Brenier met us. We -stopped at Martique, which was the home of Ziem, the great French -painter, now deceased. We visited the Ziem museum. The lake of Martique -is where the new port of Marseilles is to be located. This town dates -back six hundred years B. C. We met here the president, Adrien Artaud, -and the vice-president, Hubert Giraud, of the Chamber of Commerce of -Marseilles.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Old Roman Arena at Arles—Still Used For Bull Fights and -Other Amusements.]</p> - - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="VIII" id="VIII"></a><a href="#toc">VIII.</a></h2> - -<h3>ALONG THE MEDITERRANEAN</h3> - -<p class="n"><span class="figleft"><img src="images/011.png" alt="A" /></span>RRIVING at De Rove, the south end of the tunnel, on Saturday, September -23rd, I had my first view of the Mediterranean. It was a most beautiful -sight, and the water as blue as pictured in paintings. We were rowed in -a small boat across an arm of the Mediterranean to the town of -Marseilles. We first visited the new part of Marseilles; then the old. -Upon our arrival there was a tremendous gathering to greet us; not less -than ten thousand children were shouting "Viva la Amerique". The whole -city was decorated with American and French flags intertwined. The crowd -lined upon the wharf so thickly we could scarcely pass through it. This -reception was the greatest we had received anywhere in France. We -visited the Hotel de Ville and were greeted by the mayor, with a -response by Mr. Nichols, interpreted by Dr. Mailloux. We were then taken -to the Hotel Regina and in the evening given a banquet by the Chamber of -Commerce. This chamber was organized in 1599 and is the oldest chamber -of commerce in the world.</p> - -<p>Our invitation to this banquet read as follows:</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<div class="block"> -<p>The President of the Marseilles Chamber of Commerce begs you to -honor him by your presence at the luncheon which will be given to -the members of your Commission on</p> - -<p class="center">Monday, September 25th 12:30 P. M. at the<br /> -Restaurant de la Re'serve.<br /> -(31 F Promenade de la Corniche)</p> -</div> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p>At this banquet, on my right sat Maurice Damour, French deputy in charge -of the Commission, and on my left Hubert Giraud, vice-president of the -Chamber of Commerce. He made a fine address and I asked him for a copy, -which he gave me. It is reproduced herewith:</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<div class="block"> -<p>Mr. President— -Gentlemen:</p> - -<p>I am desired by my President to give you in your own language the -welcome of the Chamber of Commerce of Marseilles. You will -certainly lose more than gain in hearing me instead of President -Artaud, and I must apologize, as my knowledge of English is far -from being adequate to my task. Anyhow, it is possible my words may -be by a few of our guests more easily translated than if delivered -in French.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen, the oldest Chamber of Commerce in France, and maybe in -the world, is exceedingly proud of entertaining tonight the highly -qualified representatives of the American Commerce and Industry. We -are most thankful to your party to have agreed to spend some of -your valuable time in our city. We are sorry to say that we have -not this good fortune as often as we would like, and that your -fellow-citizens generally pay very little care to our old harbour -and town. They are rather exclusively attracted by our great -capital, Paris, and when coming to enjoy the splendid winters of -the French Riviera, they reach it direct by rail or by sea, and -seem to be quite ignorant of Marseilles, where they could find at -least what is our city's glory: LIGHT, LIFE and LABOUR.</p> - -<p>I think that Marseilles deserves more attention, and that the old -ties between America and Marseilles should be better known. I would -recall that our history, especially the history of our Chamber of -Commerce, records the old sympathy of Marseilles for America. It is -as old as your nation herself. At the end of the eighteenth -century, when the stars of young America just appeared on the -Atlantic horizon, French warships fought for your fathers' -independence. Some ships of Admiral d'Estaing's French squadron -bore names such as "LE MARSEILLAIS", "LA PROVENCE". In the year -1782 the French fleet was increased by a new warship of 118 guns, -built and armed at the expense of the Chamber of Commerce of -Marseilles. Her cost was 1,200,000 francs, a very small sum of -money in our days, but rather a large one in those remote times. -She was offered to King Louis XVI for the very purpose of helping -in the American war, and she was named by the King "Le Commerce de -Marseille."</p> - -<p>Gentlemen, it is for the successors of the "echevins" of the year -1782 a great joy to meet in Marseilles the sons of the glorious -soldiers of the Independence War, sustained so many years ago with -the assistance of the warship bearing their own name.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen, Marseilles may be somewhat ignored, but France was not -forgotten by America. I need not mention the numerous proofs our -country has received of your country's sympathy. But I only fulfill -a duty in emphasizing the very great help we have found in America -in the course of this terrible war, the greatest human cataclysm -which ever stormed the human world. All of us are aware that France -found in America another kind of help than material, steel and -grain. France found amongst you any sort of goods, but also—and -over all—kindness and pity. American ambulances, splendidly -organized, afforded invaluable relief to our wounded on the front. -May I mention not that American airmen rendered to our army the -most useful services, and that American lives were lost for France. -America helps us by sea, on land and in the air. Your country knows -that France is not fighting for power or profit, but that she is -pouring the best of her children's blood for Freedom and Humanity.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen, we used to say in France that good accounts, that is -good settlements of business, make good friends. I believe that the -words may be reversed and that good friendship may lead to good -business. I trust that after this war, trade between America and -Marseilles will be largely extended. We have shown you that, -notwithstanding the present worries and difficulties, we are -pushing on our harbor improvements and preparing large -accommodation for shipping and industry. We strongly believe that, -in the near future, Marseilles must become the most important -harbor and center of commerce for the whole Mediterranean Sea. We -think that the American trade will find in our city the best center -of distribution for your large exports of commodities such as -petroleum, harvesting machinery, tobacco, and that they should be -forwarded through Marseilles to all the Mediterranean shores. I -have no doubt your visit in our city will allow you to observe that -you can find here produce of our land or of our industry, most -convenient for American requirements, and that in the mutual -interest of your and our cities the trade between Marseilles and -American ports will be proportionate to the friendship of the -Nations.</p> - -<p>Mr. President, Gentlemen, I propose your good health and the good -health of your friends, and the prosperity of our sister Republic, -The United States of America.</p> -</div> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Shore of Mediterranean near Marseilles. In the Distance -Chateau D'If, Made Famous by Dumas.]</p> - -<p>There was greeting by M. Artaud, president of the Chamber of Commerce, -and a response by Mr. Nichols. We were given an ovation by the most -representative people of Marseilles. We met at this dinner, A. Gaulin, -American Consul General, and he was most cordial.</p> - -<p>The next day was Sunday. In the afternoon we visited the Marseilles Art -Museum. We saw a bust, recently found, which dates back to the Second -century; it resembles very closely the work of Rodin. In this museum we -saw an old bell, labeled 1840, and an old straw hat, labeled 1820. We -drove all over the city, visited the old docks and noted the -cosmopolitan conglomeration of people in streets.</p> - -<p>We were taken to the Chateau D'If, which is a quarter of a mile out at -sea, made world-famous by Dumas in the noted novel "The Count of Monte -Cristo". We all resolved, right then and there, that when we got home we -would re-read "The Count of Monte Cristo". In our drive we saw Longchamp -palace, which resembles very much the court of honor in the National -McKinley Birthplace Memorial at Niles, Ohio. The entrance to the port of -Marseilles resembles the Golden Gate at San Francisco. We gathered -considerable information in our talks with the people we met at -Marseilles, being told among other things, that all the officials of the -French government are to hold over until the war is over, that is to -say, elections are suspended for the time being. The efficiency and -preparedness of the Germans was enlarged upon, it being stated, as is -very well known, that Germany was the only country prepared at the time -the war broke out.</p> - -<p>We visited at Marseilles the birthplace of Rouget de l'Isle, the author -of the Marseilles hymn. This hymn was first sung by a lady at an evening -party in Straussburgh, Germany, and it was then called the "Hymn of the -Soldier from Marseilles", but afterwards became known as "The -Marsellaise Hymn". It is the national anthem of France; the words are -inspiring and no one, whether American or French, can listen to the -music of this hymn without being stirred to the depths.</p> - -<p>We heard much of the vast stores of zinc and iron ores in Tunisia and -Algeria, and were given much information about French colonies. France, -including its colonies, has nearly one hundred million people. The -Trans-Africa Railroad takes in a population of more than two hundred -million people along the Mediterranean, including France, Spain and -Italy. One of the largest dams in the world, "La Durance Dame," 429 feet -across, is in France, not far from Marseilles.</p> - -<p>Before the war Germany marketed a large amount of its coal in France, -three hundred thousand tons annually.</p> - -<p>Bauxite or aluminum ore is mined in France, and 60 per cent. of the -output of the world is French product. Algeria contains millions of -acres of virgin forests, ready to be explored. The cork oak is one of -the important trees. Large exports of iron ore are made to England. At -the end of the war the French expect to market ore and coal from the -fields of Lorraine.</p> - -<p>In our travels through Marseilles, we did not observe anywhere play -grounds or amusements of any kind for the workmen.</p> - -<p>Marseilles has a number of convalescent hospitals. We saw in the streets -on Sunday, soldiers wandering about, English, French, Russian, Tunisian, -Algerian, Hindu-Chinese, Moroccan, Australian, Canadian, Corsican; -natives of Madagascar and Negroes from South Africa—soldiers from -eleven different nations.</p> - -<p>There is a plan projected to connect Marseilles with a system of French -canals, so as to afford direct water communication between the -Mediterranean, the North Sea and thus to the English Channel. Marseilles -antedates the Christian era by five hundred years. In 1782 a man-of-war -mounting one hundred and eighteen guns, named "La Commerce de -Marseilles" was built at the expense of the Marseilles Chamber of -Commerce and presented to Louis XVI for the fleet sent by the French -Government to fight for American independence. Marseilles, later on, -became prominent in the French Revolution and gave its name to the -French national hymn.</p> - -<p>The largest tunnel in the world is now well under course of -construction in France, its object being to give the city of Marseilles -connection with Paris and the interior in general by rail and water. -This tunnel will provide an ample waterway for barges. The entire -project involves the building of a new harbor and the cutting of a ship -canal, actually tunneled through solid rock for five long miles, joining -the old harbor and the Mediterranean to the River Rhone. The Rhone's -upper stretches are placid and already are used extensively for barge -navigation, but near Marseilles the stream is far too turbulent for -commerce. A range of hills had prevented the construction of a canal in -days gone by. Now, with France energized by the war, and with the -necessity for the canal emphasized thereby, the tunnel is being pushed -and the canal will soon be opened. It will connect Marseilles with the -network of canals which extends throughout the country. There are longer -tunnels in the world, but none so large, for this is seventy-two feet -wide and nearly forty-seven feet high. The work was begun in 1911-12 and -has been continued through the war. The project is being put through by -the Marseilles Chamber of Commerce, which found $8,000,000 of the -$18,280,000 required to do the work. The balance will be paid by vessel -tolls. The canal runs from Arles to the Mediterranean, a distance of -fifty-one miles, making a navigable waterway to the usable portion of -the Rhone and the Saone, opening 337 miles of water capable of bearing -600-ton lighters. By this canal and links already available, barges can -be sent from the Mediterranean to the English Channel.</p> - -<p>On Monday, September the 25th, I called upon the Consul General A. -Gaulin. I found him a very agreeable gentleman and quite devoted to his -work, a great deal of which consisted in helping needy Americans -stranded in France.</p> - -<p>The Commission was invited to luncheon at the Hotel Reserve, overlooking -the Mediterranean and the Chateau D'If. On my right sat the president of -the Marseilles Chamber of Commerce, Adrien Artaud, and on my left sat -Lucien Estrine, former president of the Marseilles Chamber of Commerce. -At this elevated hotel, tradition has it, the Count of Monte Cristo and -his bride had their wedding breakfast.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon an open meeting was held by the Chamber of Commerce at -the Regina Hotel. This meeting was attended by citizens of Marseilles -interested in the import and export business. The question of credits -was pretty thoroughly discussed. It was stated by a number of Frenchmen -present that the coveting of the iron ore and coal deposits of France by -the Germans was the real cause of the war.</p> - - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="IX" id="IX"></a><a href="#toc">IX.</a></h2> - -<h3>TOWNS IN SOUTHERN FRANCE</h3> - - -<p class="n"><span class="figleft"><img src="images/012.png" alt="W" /></span>E left Marseilles on Tuesday, September 26th, at 6 A. M. for Grenoble. -The sunrise was very beautiful; along the way you can see trees, the -tops of which have been chopped off. We were told that the annual crop -of fire-wood in France is just the same as the annual crop of wheat or -any other product. Fast growing trees are planted and the branches and -twigs are utilized for fuel.</p> - -<p>We were met at the Grenoble station by eight entirely new Dodge -automobiles.</p> - -<p>At Grenoble, we visited the glove factory of Perrin & Co. This firm is -well known in the United States and we were informed that our country is -its best customer. In normal times the concern employes twenty thousand -men and women, equally divided. The product is twenty million pairs of -gloves annually. Much of the work is taken home for execution. The shop -is well lighted and the sanitary conditions seem to be all of the very -best. We visited the Raymond button factory and the candy factory of -Davin & Company. This was a very interesting experience. At the close, -or rather before leaving the factory, we were permitted to witness the -decoration of a workman who had been in the employment of the company -for thirty-five years. It was really an affecting sight. We were told -that in all that time he had not lost a day from sickness and the time -had arrived when he was entitled to a pension. He was decorated by the -head of the firm. At the close of the ceremonies he was surrounded by -his family, relatives and members of the firm, and greeted in the usual -way of the French with their own countrymen, that is to say, by kissing -and embracing.</p> - -<p>On Wednesday, September 27th, at seven in the morning, we left Grenoble -for the French Alps. We had as a guide John Steel, an American who had -been in France for fifteen years and had become a French citizen. He -gave us much valuable information. He said, among other things, that -when the railroads in France take freight they guarantee the time of -delivery, if desired, and include an extra charge in the rate. On this -trip we passed three companies of mounted guns, the technical name being -mountain artillery. This was an interesting sight. A portion consisted -of donkeys with all the paraphernalia of a soldier strapped to their -backs, together with rapid firing mitrailleuses. The soldiers were -unusually fine looking men from the Alpine district, a portion of France -near the Swiss border.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Types from French Provinces.]</p> - -<p>We visited a paper mill where the entire product was cardboard. We -passed the "Escole de Garcons," otherwise a school for teaching -waiters. We were told by Mr. Steel that in the valley adjoining that in -which we were driving anthracite coal exists in abundance but has not -been worked to any great extent. We passed mountain villages and noticed -the cultivation of the sides of mountains almost perpendicular. It was a -wonderful ride, amid splendid scenery, with numerous waterfalls, snow -and glaciers in great abundance; in other words, we were going through -the Switzerland of France. We passed a flock of sheep, more than five -thousand in number, cared for by a head shepherdess, with several -assistants and a number of dogs.</p> - -<p>We had luncheon at the Grand Hotel Bourg D'Oison and stopped briefly at -the hotel de La Meige.</p> - -<p>On our return down the mountain we visited an electric manufacturing -plant, the products being aluminum, magnesium, sodium, peroxide, sodium, -oxolyte, calcium, and hydrated calcium. In this factory one of the -commissioners had a narrow escape from certain injury, if not death, by -attempting to taste the chemicals. He was stopped just in time.</p> - -<p>We then visited the Chateau Vizille, built in the seventeenth century -and at one time occupied by Casimer de Perier, President of France. -Vizille was one of the three great marshalls of France, and the chateau -is called the "Cradle of Liberty". The first French Revolutionary -meeting was held here. The castle contained old cannon and splendid old -furniture, while the surrounding grounds were beautiful.</p> - -<p>On Thursday, September 28th, we visited the paper manufacturing plant of -Berges at Lancey. There is an immense water-power installation here, the -capacity of the plant being one hundred tons daily of all grades of -paper. There are two plants, one a very old one, dating back nearly two -hundred years, and the other a new one, not quite completed. We saw here -one machine which cost one hundred and sixty thousand dollars, a -remarkable piece of mechanism, almost human in its workings. The -waterfall is six hundred feet in a short distance. Adjoining this paper -mill was a small munition plant. Most of the employes were women, -dressed in the American bloomer costume.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon we had a meeting with the citizens and the Chamber of -Commerce of Grenoble. The discussion took a very wide range—from the -tariff question to the latest news from the front.</p> - -<p>Next the party visited a plant for the manufacture of sheet steel by -electricity.</p> - -<p>In the evening we were banqueted at the Grand Hotel. On my right sat M. -Paisant, Director General; on my left was Mr. Thomas W. Mutton, -Vice-consul of the United States of America at Grenoble; near was was -Mr. Tenot, Prefect of the district.</p> - -<p>This part of France is noted for the amount of cement manufactured. -Walnuts are grown in this section in large quantities. I discussed -these things with Mr. Murton.</p> - -<p>There was a discussion at the banquet over female suffrage and the -birthrate, and this grew very animated.</p> - -<p>On Friday, September 29th, we left Grenoble and stopped at Voiron and -were here treated, at 9:30 A. M., with a "petit dejeuner". We next -visited the monastery Grande. This was founded in the Twelfth century by -St. Bruno. The present building was commenced and completed in the -sixteenth century and the community originally had forty-two monks or -fathers. This monastery is where the celebrated liquor, "Chartreuse", -was manufactured, the basis of which is brandy, distilled flowers, and -herbs. This formula was known only to the monks. While at the monastery -in France each monk had an individual garden and an individual cell. -When an extra penance seemed necessary special silence was given them -and they were compelled to remain in their cells for months at a time. -There were long corridors and in the basement places for servants and -retainers. In the center of the grounds was a very beautiful place where -the fathers were buried. We were told that the order was recruited -mainly from the intellectual class, many of them widowers. Special rooms -were reserved for travelers without money and without price.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Monastery of Chartreuse.]</p> - -<p>The Carthusian order of Monks established themselves at Grenoble, -France, in 1132. The original receipe for the famous cordial was given -them in 1602 by Marshall d'Estress. Friar Jerome Maubec arranged the -present formula in 1755, and it remained unchanged until their expulsion -by the French Government, July 2nd, 1901. More than two hundred -ingredients go to make up Chartreuse, and nowhere else in the world can -this cordial be manufactured. Chartreuse is the unsolved enigma of -French compounders of liqueurs. Its manufacture has ceased. It is quite -true that at Tarragona, Spain, the monks still continue to make cordial -under the name of "Peres Chartreux", but it is generally agreed that, -owing to the change of locality and climate, the "Peres Chartreux" now -made there is not equal to the old Chartreuse. There are a number of -people in Grenoble who make imitation Chartreuse, but it is not so good -as the real thing.</p> - -<p>The monastery library contained twenty-two thousand volumes. These monks -were also known as the Chartreusers, or Carthusian Monks. This was the -head monastery, but there were branches in Italy, Spain, and Portugal. -The fathers lived on a simple diet and no meat was allowed. They were -not allowed to speak to each other except twice a week, on Sunday and -Thursday. This old monastery is now used as a hospital for -convalescents.</p> - -<p>After this most interesting visit we were taken to luncheon at the Hotel -du Grand Som, and later for a ride of one hundred miles in the military -automobiles, through a mountainous country.</p> - -<p>We arrived at Annecy at 8 P. M. and stopped at the Imperial Palace -Hotel. This is one of the finest watering places in France. A beautiful -lake surrounds the hotel, with mountains in the distance.</p> - -<p>The next morning we called upon the Mayor and went through the usual -speeches. We were given a boat ride on the lake. Then we visited an old -castle. The coast looked very much like the coast of Maine between Bath -and Squirrel Island. We were taken by boat from Annecy to Menthon and -had luncheon at the Palace Hotel. Here Mr. Damour made his first speech, -which was received so enthusiastically that he was kissed by nearly all -the Frenchmen present.</p> - -<p>We then visited an electric steel plant at Acierils, the French name -being the "Electriques of Ugine". We were greeted by, among other -things, a couple of American flags, but they were upside down.</p> - -<p>We left Annecy at 5 P. M. for Lyons and stopped at the Terminus Hotel. -We saw a number of tattooed soldiers, that is tattooed with powder -marks, they having seen service.</p> - -<p>On Sunday, October 1st, at 8 A. M. we left Lyons for Le Creusot, where -the great French steel plant is located. A serious discussion was held -on the train about going to the front and the dangers were depicted -quite vividly. We stopped at Chagny, after passing a very old church -dating back to the Tenth century. We saw, as we passed along, droves of -beautiful white cows, with not a speck of color.</p> - - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="X" id="X"></a><a href="#toc">X.</a></h2> - -<h3>THE CREUSOT GUN WORKS</h3> - - -<p class="n"><span class="figleft"><img src="images/013.png" alt="A" /></span>RRIVING in Le Creusot we stopped at the Grand Hotel Moderne and had a -most enjoyable Sunday evening. It was discovered that our French -secretary, Emile Garden, had quite a tenor voice. He started in to sing -the Marseilles Hymn, and it was not long until all the Commission -joined, and then the hotel employes. Before we got through scores of -people came in from the street to see what was going on. The incident -was telegraphed by the newspaper correspondents to the Paris papers, and -it aided in the work of the commissioners by showing their patriotism -and sympathy for France.</p> - -<p>We were told that there had been no strike at Le Creusot for twenty-five -years. The employes wear a special sleeve decoration which indicates -that they are in the same class as soldiers; that is to say, they are -making cannon and munitions and working for France.</p> - -<p>We were given a breakfast at the Schneider club house and then visited -the plant. We were refused admission to the munitions plant. The works -employ about twenty thousand men and two thousand women. The output of -the plant is large projectiles, and for this reason the number of women -employed is relatively small. A number of five hundred and twenty -millimeter shells were shown to us; these shells are more than seven -feet long and weigh a ton and a half. We were also shown the guns from -which they are fired, but these were not quite completed. This plant -contains four blast furnaces of very small capacity, making special -grades of pig iron. The initial heat is not used, the steel being -reheated and repoured. A good deal of Vanadium alloy is used, and this -is made in America. At this plant we met Mr. Edmond Lemaitre, an -engineer who had been in Youngstown employed as an inspector. All the -employes, both men and women, wear wooden shoes. We noticed an absence -of safety devices and safety notices. Armored cars were being -manufactured for the government as well as armor plate, but this armor -plate mill was away behind the mills in our own country.</p> - -<p>We had luncheon at the club house, but no speeches were made. None of -the proprietors or directors of the company was present. We then visited -the company hospital, a part of which was occupied by electric devices -for treating the wounded. Then we came to the home where the orphans of -the employes are taken care of.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: New 520-mm. Gun, Carrying Projectile Seven Feet in Length -and Weighing 3,100 lbs., seen at Creusot Works.]</p> - -<p>A great deal of attention is paid to the sanitary conditions and also to -the uniforms of the men, and a great deal that is done for the workmen -could be copied in our American plants. The history of these works, -the greatest of their kind in France, is interesting. Their former ore -supply, or at least a large part of it, was captured by the Germans near -Verdun.</p> - -<p>The name Creusot was first mentioned in an old charter in 1253. In the -year 1502 coal was discovered there, and the year 1793 saw the opening -of the Canal du Centre. During the French Revolution the plant was taken -and exploited by the state and a little before the year 1800 was given -back to its owners. During the Napoleonic wars much work was done here. -In the year 1815, gun making was stopped and only coal mining was -allowed.</p> - -<p>The dynasty of the Schneiders continued for four generations; the last -one, Charles Eugene Schneider, was born in 1868.</p> - -<p>The first French locomotive was built at this plant and, in 1841, the -first hammer moved by steam power.</p> - -<p>In the year 1855 the Crimean war led to much activity at this plant. In -1867 ten thousand workmen were employed. In the year 1870 the first -Bessemer steel produced in France, was made here, although the process -had then been in use in the United States for six years.</p> - -<p>Since 1884 these works have been exporting guns to many foreign -countries.</p> - -<p>In 1897 a large plant was built near Le Havre for the manufacture of -naval guns. In 1882 they built large naval works near Bordeaux, and -since 1906 they have been building the largest warships at that place. -In 1909, at Hyeres, near Toulon, studying and making of torpedoes was -begun, and this was followed in 1910 by submarines. Five plants are now -scattered through France for this kind of work.</p> - -<p>The Creusot works do not employ children under fourteen years of age. -There are often three generations employed in this same kind of work, -and some families have up to twenty members working in one plant. They -have always been spared epidemics of any serious nature. With sanitary -and prosperous homes, few deaths have occurred in the first year of -life. The rate of deaths at Le Creusot is only ten per thousand while -the average in France is 16 per thousand, and in bad industrial centers -25 per thousand. Eighty per cent. of the children are nursed by the -mother. After the seventh month before birth mothers rest, and for a -period after and during this time they receive the usual wages.</p> - -<p>The first school was opened here in 1787. At the age of fourteen -children can become apprentices and those of other towns or villages are -often attracted. After they have a school certificate, entrance to the -works is optional. From the age of twelve to sixteen years they must do -military preparation, with flags and musical band. The brightest -children go to high school to become engineers, and they are taught by -the best professors in France. They pay back the cost of their -education only when they have secured a good position. A thorough -medical examination is necessary.</p> - -<p>Since the year 1875 savings banks for children have existed.</p> - -<p>The first domestic science school was organized in Europe in the year -1865 at Goteborg. At first all the mothers were opposed to these -schools, but they soon favored them. One cannot enter these schools -without a diploma from the common schools. Each teacher is given -twenty-four pupils. The girls are taught to make their own apparel, -gardening, cooking, washing, ironing, mending and keeping home expense -accounts.</p> - -<p>There are three classes of workmen. Ten selected, twenty auxiliaries, -thirty uneducated laborers. In January, 1912 there were twenty thousand -men employed. They all sign a full contract, after reading it, before -getting into the works. The contract can be cancelled by either party -with one week's notice. No proprietor of a saloon can work in the plant. -From 1837 to 1911 the salaries have increased 130 per cent. In the year -1911 the total of salaries was nearly thirty-three million francs. The -annual donations amount to three million francs. Delegates are nominated -by the workmen for conference with the employers to suggest better -conditions and improvements in working methods. Sixty-six per cent. of -their suggestions or demands have been adopted and the result is peace -and confidence. The company provides swimming pools, divided into two -parts, one-half for adults and the other half for younger men and boys.</p> - -<p>The homes are subject to constant sanitary inspection and all unsanitary -buildings are destroyed. Safety appliances and all protecting apparatus -are painted in brilliant red. There has been a constant study of the -workman's house, since the eighteenth century. In 1840 the company had -one hundred workmen's houses; in 1912 two thousand five hundred, and in -addition to this hundreds of these houses have been bought by the -workmen by slow annual payments added to the rent. The types of houses -vary for one to four families. The rents are low and do not pay regular -interest on the investment. Ground space for gardens is furnished by the -company, with annual competitions and rewards for the best results. -Trees and seeds are furnished at nominal prices. There are two thousand, -two hundred and fifty gardens under cultivation.</p> - -<p>The savings bank is managed by the company and safe investments are made -for the workmen, returns of from three to five per cent, on savings -being guaranteed.</p> - -<p>In the year 1911, eight thousand workmen's accounts reached thirteen -million francs. The chief use of the savings is to buy homes. The total -amount advanced to workmen for building houses since 1845 was five -million francs, of which only eighty-three thousand, five hundred are -not yet paid back.</p> - -<p>Co-operative societies for reducing the cost of living are organized to -enable the workmen to get supplies at cost. They were started and -managed by the Schneider Company and gradually left in the hands of the -workmen themselves.</p> - -<p>Club houses are maintained with tennis courts, fencing bouts, games, -gymnasiums, a children's theatre, gun clubs, rowing clubs and musical -societies. The time spent in rehearsing for orchestras is not deducted -from the pay. Free medical attendance for the workman and his family is -given. Emergency and base hospitals are provided by the company. Modern -and up-to-date mutual benefit societies are managed by the workmen. Old -age pensions have been financed differently during the last century and -are now supported by one per cent. from the workman, two per cent. from -the Schneider Company, and three per cent. from the State.</p> - -<p>Houses are provided for men over sixty years of age, and when it is -possible aged couples are kept together.</p> - -<p>We reached Dole at 9 o'clock P. M. on Monday, October 2nd.</p> - -<p>Dole is the birthplace of Pasteur, the great French scientist who -discovered the antidote for hydrophobia. His name is known throughout -the world.</p> - - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="XI" id="XI"></a><a href="#toc">XI.</a></h2> - -<h3>APPROACHING THE FRONT</h3> - - -<p class="n"><span class="figleft"><img src="images/014.png" alt="A" /></span>FTER leaving Dole, the next stop on our itinerary was Besancon, from -which we entered the zone of actual hostilities. For us this town was -the gateway to "The Front" and therefore a point of more than usual -interest. Here we were asked to sign the following paper, which all -members of the commission did on October 4th, we having reached the town -at midnight on October 2nd.</p> -<p> </p> -<div class="block"> -<p class="r">Besancon, October 4, 1916.</p> - -<p>The itinerary arranged for the American Industrial Commission -includes several days' sojourn at the "front", which is considered -of importance in the prosecution of its investigation, particularly -as preliminary to a conference in Paris with the "American Centrale -pour la Reprise de l' Activite Industrielle dans Les Regions -Envahies."</p> - -<p>The danger of such a trip is fully recognized and hereby admitted, -and although the extraordinary risk inseparably connected with a -trip to Europe at this time has been accepted by us all, yet, in -the present case</p> - -<p>Each of the undersigned by this means records for himself his -voluntary assumption by him of all responsibility in connection -therewith, and furthermore, asserts that neither by coercion, -persuasion, nor even by suggestion on the part of the Chairman, or -otherwise, has his course been determined.</p> -</div> - -<div class="blockk"> -<p class="n"> -M. W. W. Nichols,<br /> -M. J. G. Butler, Jr.<br /> -M. A. B. Farquhar,<br /> -M. G. B. Ford,<br /> -M. S. F. Hoggson,<br /> -M. J. F. Le Maistre,<br /> -M. J. R. Mac Arthur,<br /> -M. Le Dr. C. O. Mailloux,<br /> -M. C. G. Pfeiffer,<br /> -M. J. E. Sague,<br /> -M. E. A. Warren,<br /> -M. E. V. Douglass,<br /> -M. E. Garden.</p> -</div> -<p> </p> -<p>We were met by the military automobiles at the station, two soldiers in -each auto. I was accosted at the station by a number of wounded English -soldiers. It seemed good to hear a little English spoken. One of the -soldiers reached out his hand as I passed and said, "How are you?" We -were domiciled at the Hotel Europe. The windows were barred with iron -shutters excluding light and fresh air. Early the following morning we -were treated to the sight of more than one thousand German prisoners, -just captured and being taken to the camp at Besancon.</p> - -<p>This was the birthplace of Victor Hugo, who was born February 26th, -1802. Old Roman ruins were very much in evidence, among them an old -Roman citadel and a Roman theatre. By tradition, St. John the Baptist -was buried here. We visited the underground water works and the -Cathedral of St. Jean and saw in this church many paintings of the Holy -Family and other religious representations. There were two immense holes -in this cathedral, the result of bombs fired from the German guns in -1914, in the beginning of the war.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: German Prisoners Passing Through the Village of St. -Etienne.]</p> - -<p>I saw here a girl and a dog hitched to the same cart, hauling a load of -vegetables; they both seemed contented.</p> - -<p>Luncheon was served by the Chamber of Commerce at the Resturant De -Besancon. In the evening we were given a banquet at the Besancon Hotel -de Ville. Up to this time I had been with the Commission five weeks, but -on account of my patriotic utterances in private and my quite apparent -sympathy with the French people, was not urged to speak. It had been, -however, arranged that I was to talk at Le Creusot, but there was not a -representative gathering to talk to there, and this Besancon banquet -seemed to be the proper place. After some pressure of other members of -the Commission I was requested to speak. This was really the first note -of human sympathy sounded. I first spoke in English, which not more than -two or three in the audience, outside of the Commissioners, understood, -although there were about one hundred present. At the conclusion of my -talk it was translated into French by Mr. MacArthur. When he got -through I was surrounded by the Frenchmen present and congratulated as -well as embraced by practically the entire audience. This address is -reproduced by special request of some of the members of the Commission -who heard it.</p> -<div class="block"> -<p>Gentlemen:—</p> - -<p>I am afraid my aeroplane French will not be understood by our good -friends present. I tried it on a number of our Franco-American -orators, and they, with one accord, said it was fine and beautiful, -but they could not understand a word I was saying. I will, -therefore, ask my fellow-traveler and sympathizer, Mr. MacArthur, -to read the brief address I have prepared, apologizing through him -for the lamentable fact that I speak English only.</p> - -<p>This gives me an opportunity of saying that by special letter of -authorization issued by Dr. Ricketts President of the American -Institute of Mining Engineers, I represent that important -organization during our mission in France. The American Institute -of Mining Engineers is composed of more than six thousand members, -all technical, scientific and practical men. The organization has -been in existence more than a quarter of a century, and has -rendered invaluable service to our mining and manufacturing -interests in the United States. This scientific body of men stand -ready to render such service to France as France may desire and it -is hoped this suggestion may receive serious consideration.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen: When our good ship, the Lafayette, passed through the -river entering the port of Bordeaux, we beheld a most beautiful -sunset, such as Cazin would have painted. As we beheld this -glorious vision, it flashed through my mind that France is -fighting for its existence among nations, and my heart went out to -all France in loving sympathy. As we landed and progressed on our -journey, this feeling of reverence and affection for the French -people became intensified. The French spirit insures victory—a -victory which, when gained, will be substantial and enduring, -worthy of the great people who are pouring out their life blood and -treasure to attain this end.</p> - -<p>Everywhere we have been impressed with the earnestness of the women -in France. All the thousands we have seen at their employment -impressed me with their desire to help save the country. In a word, -as I looked upon their faces, all seemed to express the thought, -"We are working for France". This slogan goes all over your fair -land and is a mighty factor in the progress of the conflict. Signs -of loss were everywhere from Bordeaux to Paris, and in our -wanderings since, but not a word of complaint have we heard.</p> - -<p>Our visit to the birthplace of your countryman, Lafayette, was -looked forward to with intense interest, and the visit was a keen -realization of the expectation. As our worthy President, Mr. -Nichols, raised his glass and asked that we pause for a moment in -silence and think of the great man who was the companion and aide -of Washington, "first in war, first in peace, and first in the -hearts of his countrymen," there was not a dry eye in the room. All -present realized the close relationship between France and the -United States—cemented and welded for all time to come by the -early sympathy of France for our struggling colonies, and the great -assistance rendered by Lafayette to Washington in our time of need, -and which resulted in our independence.</p> - -<p>In the present struggle of France, we owe it to the French people -to aid in all possible ways. I believe that a great majority of the -citizens of the United States are in sympathy with France and -their prayers are for your success and freedom.</p> - -<p>It may not be out of place in this connection to mention, although -somewhat personal, that when Lafayette, visited the United States -in 1824, my grandfather, whose name I bear, attended a reception -given the great Frenchman in Philadelphia, and has often told me -about it, dwelling upon the enthusiasm with which Lafayette was -everywhere greeted during his triumphant tour through the country. -I have also in my autograph collection a three page patriotic -letter written by Lafayette in 1824 during his visit. I prize this -letter most highly.</p> - -<p>Another fact I may mention, and it gives me profound pleasure to do -so. France, in spite of her troubles, carried out her compact, and -sent to the Panama-Pacific Exposition at San Francisco, a -magnificent collection of paintings and sculpture. Many examples of -both were loaned from the Luxembourgh, and there were a number of -pieces of priceless sculpture by Rodin, your great sculptor, whose -work is famous the world over. The exhibit also contained many -notable examples of work by other French and Belgian artists. After -the exhibition closed we were fortunate enough to have the -collection exhibited at my home, Youngstown, Ohio, for a period of -thirty days, under the auspices of The Mahoning Institute of Art. -We were told that some of the examples were for sale, and if sold, -the proceeds would help the artists, and assist in the great work -being carried on to aid the hospitals of France. We, therefore, -made a common cause, buying a number of paintings and one piece of -sculpture, thus doing our bit to help the good work along, besides -securing for our country some splendid examples of the art of -France. The exhibit was obtained through the courtesy of Monsieur -Jean Guiffrey, Minister of Fine Arts in France, and to whom we are -profoundly grateful. In this connection I may add that the United -States is largely indebted to France for influence upon American -art. Nearly all of our great painters and sculptors received their -initial education in France and the influence upon American art and -artists by French masters is incalculable. This is one of the debts -of the United States to France which can never be fully repaid.</p> - -<p>The commission is in France, first, bearing America's good will, -and second, to investigate and render such substantial aid to -France as may be in our power, having in mind always the great -friendship existing between the two republics, and which we hope -our mission will strengthen. We venture to hope that our journey -through France in war time will also result in the increased -exchange of commodities between the two countries, a consummation -devoutly to be wished.</p> - -<p>I thank you, gentlemen, from the bottom of my heart and bid you God -speed in the great work of saving France.</p> -</div> - -<p>At this noted banquet there were several generals present, some of whom -had been in the service but a short time previous, and one of them -famous the world over. We were not permitted to mention the names of any -of the generals we met while in the war zone.</p> - - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="XII" id="XII"></a><a href="#toc">XII.</a></h2> - -<h3>WITHIN SOUND OF THE GUNS</h3> - - -<p class="n"><span class="figleft"><img src="images/015.png" alt="O" /></span>N Wednesday, October 4th, we left for the front in military -automobiles. We passed through a farming district and through several -small villages. Nearly all who were at work in the fields were women. It -all seemed quite peaceful, considering that the battle fields were so -near. We stopped at Monte Billiard, in the Champagne district, where we -were addressed by the mayor and a response was made by Mr. Pfeiffer. -Cuvier, the great French scientist, was born here in the year 1769, and -died in 1832. We were now, as I should have mentioned before, in that -part of Alsace-Lorraine again in possession of the French. We visited at -Monte Billiard, a Fifteenth century castle and a new hospital. Red Cross -girls were very much in evidence, a number of them American and English. -We were quartered at the Hotel de la Balanie, built in 1790. We visited -the factory of Japy Freres. This concern makes a specialty of steel -helmets, canteens and porcelain ware for the use of the army.</p> - -<p>We arrived at Beaucort at midnight, and after settling down to rest, -were awakened by the booming of cannon, which was continuous during the -night. We were aroused the following morning by the town crier, passing -along the street, wearing a peculiar uniform, beating a drum and calling -out the news.</p> - -<p>At Beaucort we were shown through a castle now occupied as a hospital. -It was originally a chateau, and at that time a citadel with moat and -draw-bridge.</p> - -<p>In company with Mr. Warren, I visited the village blacksmith, being -reminded of my boyhood days. He had old-fashioned bellows and, with an -assistant, was in a small way finishing up some work for the army.</p> - -<p>We arrived at Belfort at about noon, and first saw the "Belfort Lion" by -Bartholdi, the sculptor of the Statue of Liberty in New York Harbor. It -is seventy-three feet long, forty-three feet high and is carved in a -cliff below the citadel. This statue celebrates the stubborn resistance -of the town of Belfort, which has never surrendered, although besieged -on numerous occasions. Belfort has been exposed to German guns, less -than ten miles away, for two years, and it is much shattered from -bombardments. Many of the citizens are still engaged in their ordinary -pursuits, but live in the cellars of their domiciles.</p> - -<p>We were quartered at the Le Grande Hotel, and could hear the cannons -roaring as we sat at luncheon. We were warned not to go out of the hotel -without a companion. There was a cave underneath with both an inside and -an outside entrance and we were told that in case the shelling was -resumed we should get into this cave. There had been, however, no -shelling for eight days. The town was shelled immediately after the -departure of the Canadian Industrial Commission, which had recently -visited Belfort.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: The Lion of Belfort.]</p> - -<p>The shutters of the hotel were closed at six P. M. I was taken to my -room by the chambermaid and handed a candle and a box of matches. With -all the lights of the hotel out, the cannon could be heard booming -during the entire night. Belfort is under martial law, or, as it is -called in France, military control. Just before retiring for the night -we were reminded that the city was frequently shelled and that nearly -all the inhabitants slept in the caves, a pleasant thought to go to bed -with. However, strange to say, I had a most excellent night's rest.</p> - -<p>No one was permitted outside the hotel unless he had with him a card to -show the police of the town.</p> - -<p>Belfort contains numerous monuments. One series of statues is of three -generals who defended Belfort during the three sieges successfully -resisted. Two of these sieges occurred during the time of Napoleon and -one during the Franco-Prussian war, 1870-1871. We walked about in a -body, escorted by a military officer and a number of soldiers. We -visited a large part of the city and at nearly every corner there were -signs showing the entrances to caves and stating the number of persons -each cave would hold—all the way from twenty to seventy. Evidence was -all around of bombs dropped from aeroplanes by the Germans and shells -fired by them from many miles away, there being hundreds of shattered -windows and holes in the sidewalks.</p> - -<p>We remained in Belfort two nights. The morning after our departure the -city was bombarded and some fifteen or twenty people killed.</p> - -<p>On Friday, October 6th, we left Belfort in the military autos, under -sealed orders, and knew not where we were going. We passed several -squads of German prisoners, among them one very large company. We were -frequently challenged by sentinels in passing, for miles, along the -front of Alsace-Lorraine.</p> - -<p>Alsace-Lorraine has had forty-five years of German rule. The elder -people are not Germanized, and it is quite evident that France will not -be satisfied until the whole province has been restored.</p> - -<p>We stopped for luncheon at Remiremont, in the Vosges mountains, and -while here visited an old church dating back to the Eleventh century. -This church contained, among other things, a statue of the Virgin Mary -carved in cedar, the gift to the church of Charlemagne. There is also at -this place a Thirteenth century arcade, through which we passed. We -bought a few relics and then left Remiremont at 4:30 P. M. for a dash -into Alsace and close up to the battle-front.</p> - -<p>We arrived at Bussane at 5 P. M., after being held up several times. We -next reached Thann, a village once in German hands and two miles from -the German lines. This town had been bombarded by the Germans early in -the war. The destruction was fearful to look at; buildings were damaged -beyond repair, and one church nearly ruined. As we passed along in a -dense fog, one of the guides ran past each machine saving; "Shentlemen, -this is a beautiful sight, but you can't see it."</p> - -<p>At Thann we were shown the spot where the son of Prime Minister Borthon, -of France, was killed by a bomb.</p> - -<p>After an inspection of Thann, we drove to Gerardmere to spend the night. -It was bright moonlight and we were told there was a great deal of -danger from German aeroplanes. This was a long night ride, but -considered much safer than going through this part of the country in -day-light.</p> - -<p>We experienced great difficulty in getting back to the French line from -Alsace-Lorraine. In doing so we passed through a tunnel entering -Alsace-Lorraine territory, within a half-mile of the German firing line. -We saw a hill which has been taken and retaken a number of times and was -then in possession of the Germans. We were exposed to the German guns -for half an hour and could hear the roaring constantly. At this point -the soldier chauffeurs put on steel helmets and placed revolvers near -their right hands, taking from boxes in the machine a number of hand -grenades. This was all very cheerful for the occupants of the car to -witness, inasmuch as we did not have any helmets or hand grenades or -anything else which would enable us to help ourselves in case of -conflict.</p> - -<p>We reached Gerardmere in time for dinner and stopped over night at the -Hotel de la Providence. This was a most interesting French village. We -were called the advance guard of tourists and were really the first to -have visited the place. Signs of war could be seen everywhere. We saw -here pontoon wagons. We also saw immense loads of bread being hauled -around in army wagons and looking like loads of Bessemer paving block. -During the night of our stay in Gerardmere, we were awakened by the -booming of cannons.</p> - -<p>We left Gerardmere, going north and, passing a hill named "Bonhomme", -over which French and Germans have fought back and forward. It is now in -possession of both forces, armies being entrenched on either side of the -hill and within one mile of the summit.</p> - -<p>We passed through a number of small villages completely riddled; one -village had but a single house left untouched.</p> - -<p>Our next stop was at St. Die. This is the village where the word -"Amerique" was first used in France. A tablet recalls this -circumstance, the wording on it being as follows:</p> - -<div class="block"><p> -Here the 15th April 1507 has<br /> -been printed the "Cosmographic<br /> -Introduction" where, for the first<br /> -time the New Continent has<br /> -been named "America."</p> -</div> - -<p>Leaving St. Die we began a trip of more than fifty miles along the -battle front. This trip required two days, and we were never beyond the -sound of the guns.</p> - -<p>Our first stop was at the battlefield of La Chipotte, where was fought -one of the most sanguinary of the earlier battles of war, resulting in a -great French victory, but entailing terrific losses on both sides. In -the greater part of this region we saw forests which had been stripped -by shells and the trees of which were only beginning to grow again. In -some places they will never grow, having been stripped of every leaf and -limb and finally burned by the awful gunfire.</p> - -<p>The battle of La Chipotte was fought in 1914. Sixty thousand French -drove back a larger army of Germans after several days of fighting. The -French loss was thirty thousand, and no one knows what the German loss -amounted to. The woods are filled with crosses marking burial places, -where often as many as fifty bodies were entombed together. The French -buried their dead separately from the German dead, but the community -graves are all marked in the same way—with a simple cross. Some of -these crosses recite the names of the companies engaged, but few of them -give the names of the dead. Most of them simply record the number of -French or Germans buried beneath.</p> - -<p>At a central part of the battlefield the French have erected a handsome -monument, with the following inscription:</p> - -<div class="block"> -<p>"They have fallen down silently<br /> -like a wall.<br /> -May their glorious souls guide<br /> -us in the coming battles."</p> -</div> - -<p>After leaving the battlefield of La Chipotte, we next reached the -village of Roan Estape. It was full of ruins and practically deserted. -Beyond this village we passed for miles along roads lined on either side -with the crosses which indicate burial places of soldiers. The battle -front here extended for a long distance and the fighting was bloody -along the whole line. Much of this righting was done in the old way, -trench warfare having only just begun.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Battlefield of La Chipotte, Showing Monument and Markers -on Graves.]</p> - -<p>Next we came to Baccarat, where nearly all the houses and the cathedral -were utterly wrecked. For twenty miles beyond this town we passed along -the battle front of the Marne, within three miles of where the main -struggle had taken place, and saw everywhere graves and signs of -destruction. It was surprising how the country had begun to resume its -normal aspect and green things begun to take hold again. Our next stop -was Rambevillers, where we had luncheon at the Hotel de la Porte.</p> - - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="XIII" id="XIII"></a><a href="#toc">XIII.</a></h2> - -<h3>THE STORY OF GERBEVILLER</h3> - - -<p class="n"><span class="figleft"><img src="images/016.png" alt="A" /></span>FTER luncheon at Rambevillers, we drove to the famous village of -Gerbeviller—or rather to what is left of it. This little town is talked -of more than any other place in France, and is called the "Martyr City". -Its story is one of the most interesting told us, and to me it seemed -one of the most tragic, although the residents of the town all wanted to -talk about it with pride. While on the way to Gerbeviller we had to show -our passes, and it was lucky they were signed by General Joffre, since -nothing else goes so close to the front. We were made to tell where we -were going, how long we meant to stay, and what route we would take -coming back.</p> - -<p>Prefect Mirman, of the Department of Meurthe and Moselle, one of the -most noted and most useful men in France, escorted the commission on -this trip.</p> - -<p>Gerbeviller is located near the junction of the valleys of Meurthe and -Moselle, and occupied a strategic situation at the beginning of the war. -This and the heroic defense made of the bridge by a little company of -French soldiers, was, the French believe, responsible for its barbarous -treatment by the Germans. In the other ruined towns the destruction was -wrought by shell fire. Here the Germans went from house to house with -torches and burned the buildings after resistance had ceased and they -were in full possession of the town. The French say it was done in -wanton revenge and it looks as if that were true. Here is the story as -it was told to us in eager French and interpreted for us by one of the -party.</p> - -<p>A bridge leading from the town crosses the river to a road which goes -straight up a long hill to a main highway leading to Luneville, five -miles away. We passed over this bridge and were asked to note its -width—only enough to permit the passage of one car at a time. Two roads -converge at it and lead to the little town.</p> - -<p>During one of the important conflicts an army of 150,000 Germans was -sent around by way of Luneville to cross the river at Gerbeviller and -fall upon the right flank of the French army. The French had been able -to spare but few troops for this point, but they had barricaded the -streets of the town and posted a company of chasseurs, seventy-five in -number, at the bridge with a mitralleuse. This was an excellent -position, as there was a small building there which screened the -chasseurs from view.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Ruins of Gerbeviller.]</p> - -<p>At 8 o'clock in the morning the German advance body, twelve thousand -strong, appeared at the intersection of the road near the top of the -hill across the river. They advanced in solid formation, marching in -the goose step and singing, to the music of a band, their war hymn, -"Deutchland Uber Alles." It was a beautiful morning and the sun -glistened on the German helmets as they came down the slope, an -apparently innumerable army. In this form they reached the end of the -bridge opposite to where the chasseurs were located. The captain of that -little band of French ordered them to halt, and they did so, the rear -ranks closing up on those in front before the order could be passed -along by their commander.</p> - -<p>In a moment, however, the column began to move again and then the -captain of the chasseurs waved his hand and the mitralleuses opened on -the advancing host. The range was point blank and there was absolutely -no protection. The hail of bullets mowed down the Germans and they broke -ranks, fleeing back up the hill and out of range.</p> - -<p>All was quiet for half an hour and then a detachment of cavalry, -evidently ordered to rush the bridge, came down at a gallop, having been -formed in the shelter of a road branching off the main highway a short -distance from the bridge. They were met by a hail of bullets and nearly -all went down before they reached the bridge, while the few who did so -fell on it or tumbled, with their horses, into the river.</p> - -<p>The whole German force was delayed until a battery could be brought up -from the rear and trained on the small building sheltering the chasseurs -and their machine guns. For some reason, the gunners could not get the -range on this small building, and after firing a few shots in its -direction, turned their guns on the magnificent chateau, a short -distance down the river. At this point there was a small foot bridge, -and the German commander evidently meant to try to rush it. Before doing -so, however, he was going to make certain that the Chateau, which -commanded it, did not conceal another band of defenders. This seems to -be the only explanation for the bombardment of the Chateau, which was -one of the finest country homes in France and entirely unoccupied. At -any rate, they fired shell after shell at the building. I secured a -picture of this which shows the work of the guns.</p> - -<p>But, as the French tell the story, no effort was then made to cross the -foot bridge below the town. A battery was swung down the hill to the end -of the bridge, apparently to shell the defenders from that point. The -machine guns barked again and every man with the battery fell. Scores -more were killed before it could be withdrawn and the way cleared. Owing -to the steep banks it seemed hard for the Germans to locate a battery in -an unexposed position, and they considered again. Finally they shelled -the Chateau some more and then sent a detachment to take that bridge, -expecting to get around in the rear of the chasseurs. A machine gun had -been sent to the footbridge in the meantime, and the Germans did not -get across it until the ammunition ran out and two hundred of them were -killed. When they did cross, the little band at the main bridge, of whom -one had been killed and six wounded, retreated to the main army, and -then the Germans crossed in force and started to burn the town.</p> - -<p>The heroes of the bridge had held the German advance guard, numbering -12,000 men, from 8 in the morning until 4 in the afternoon, and in the -meantime the great battle they had expected to win had been fought and -lost.</p> - -<p>Naturally the Germans were angry, and apparently they vented their -spleen upon the village. The great Chateau, its pride and chief -attraction, had been destroyed, but the conquerors at once begun to burn -the little town, evidently determining to reserve only enough to make a -place for headquarters for their general. They did burn it, but not so -completely as they had intended.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Sister Julie.]</p> - -<p>Here is where Sister Julie comes in. Sister Julie is the most popular -woman in France as well as the most famous. We heard of her long before -we got to Gerbeviller and long after we left, but we were not fortunate -enough to meet her, as she was away at the time the Commission reached -the town. Although a member of a religious order, she has been decorated -with the grand cross of the Legion of Honor—the highest decoration -France confers upon her heroes. To pin this on her habit President -Poincaire journeyed all the way from Paris with his suite, and now -Sister Julie will not wear it. She says that religeuse do not wear -decorations—they are doing the work of the Lord.</p> - -<p>In describing Sister Julie and her work the people of Gerbeviller are -even more enthusiastic than in recounting the manner in which -seventy-five Frenchmen stopped twelve thousand Germans. It seems that -when the German forces crossed the bridge and began to burn the houses -they met with little resistance until they came to the convent where -Sister Julie and her companions had a house filled with wounded, -including the wounded chasseurs. The sister met them at the door and -defied them to burn her convent. She ordered them off and made a such a -show of determination that they went. No, they will tell you, these -French people, Sister Julie is not an Amazon. She is a little woman. Her -voice is usually mild and sweet and she smiles all the time. But when -they tried to burn her temporary hospital, it was different. She scared -them off and they did not come back.</p> - -<p>Not only that, but she made the Germans carry water and put out the -fires they had started in the neighborhood, and made them fill wash tubs -with water and leave them in her hall, so they would be handy if more -fires threatened.</p> - -<p>Besides that, she organized the men and went to the barns where cattle -had been burned and had these dressed and the meat prepared for use. -Then she made great kettles of soup and fed the people who had no homes -and nothing to eat. In all of this she defied the Germans and told their -commander to mind his own business—she was going to attend to hers. -When some of the German soldiers came and wanted to take the food -prepared for the homeless people, Sister Julie ordered them away and -made them go.</p> - -<p>There were five other nuns in this convent. Under the leadership of this -heroine they did a tremendous amount of good in the stricken community. -They used the building next door to the convent for a hospital and there -cared for hundreds of wounded soldiers. They assumed charge of the -demoralized town and kept the people from starving. No one gives them -greater credit than Prefect Mirman, who has also done great work in his -department.</p> - -<p>We were shown through the convent and hospital under the care of these -sisters, and saw many places where bullets had penetrated the walls, -these were fired by the Germans after they crossed the bridge. In this -hospital the sisters cared for the German wounded as tenderly as for the -French, and they won the respect of the invaders in this way, otherwise -it would have probably been impossible for them to do the work they did. -We saw the camp chair on which Sister Julie sat all night in front of -the hospital and kept the Germans out.</p> - -<p>The Commission spent the greater part of the day in Gerbeviller, -visiting the bridge where the seventy-five chasseurs held up the German -advance, as well as that where one lone chasseur—a regular "Horatio at -the Bridge", kept back the attacking party at the Chateau.</p> - -<p>We went through this chateau, which is owned by a resident of Paris and -was one of the sights of the village. It is seven or eight hundred years -old and is a very large building, handsomely finished in the interior. -Before the bombardment, which was a ruthless and unnecessary piece of -vandalism, it contained many fine tapestries and countless precious -heirlooms of the Bourbon times. The great strength of the walls resisted -the effects of artillery, but the interior was entirely ruined by fire. -The grand marble staircase was splintered, but the Bourbon coat of arms -above it was not touched. Strewn about in corners and on the floors were -fragments of vases and art work that must have been priceless. Even -these fragments were valuable. We secured a number of small pieces, some -of which I brought home as relics.</p> - -<p>While viewing the ruins of the chateau we could hear the guns booming. -It was while we were still here that we received news that bombs had -been dropped on Belfort that morning, twenty-four hours after we left -that place, and that a number of persons had been killed, among them -some women and children.</p> - -<p>Gerbeviller is an almost complete ruin. Beyond the convent and hospital, -and a few buildings saved for headquarters for the commanding general by -the Germans, all the rest of the town was destroyed. The people who -remain there are living in temporary buildings or mere sheds built on -the ruins of their homes, which they do not want to leave under any -circumstances. This little town, which has won its place in history, was -one of the most interesting and melancholy sights we saw in all France.</p> - -<p>On the following day, Saturday, October 7th, we visited the villages of -Luneville and Vitrimont. We were now in the "devastated region" for -sure. On every hand was evidence of the ruin wrought by shells, with -long lines of trenches that had once been filled with soldiers. Some of -these were green again, but the trees presented a woeful appearance.</p> - -<p>The next stop after leaving Rambevillers was the little town of -Vitrimont. This is a small village in France, almost wholly ruined by -the Germans in 1914, preceding the battle of the Marne. We found there -Miss Daisy Polk, of San Francisco, a wealthy, young and attractive -woman, whose work is being financed largely by the Crockers, of San -Francisco.</p> - -<p>She is living in one of the small houses untouched by the Germans. She -has undertaken the rebuilding of the village of Vitrimont as a modern -sanitary proposition and to serve as a model for what may be done in -rebuilding all the destroyed parts of France. She is the -great-granddaughter of President Polk. It is a splendid work and should -receive support.</p> - -<p>I have since received the following letter from Miss Polk:</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p class="r">Vitrimont, par Luneville, Meurthe et -Moselle, France.<br /> -October 18th, 1916</p> - -<p>Dear Mr. Butler:—</p> - -<p>Your note, with the Commission booklet, received and I want to -thank you for remembering me. The visit of the Industrial -Commission was a most delightful surprise to me here in the midst -of my ruins and it is very nice to have a souvenir—especially such -a nice souvenir, with all the names and photographs.</p> - -<p>Vitrimont looks very much as it did when you were here except that -the work is a little more advanced in spite of the rain. We are not -hoping any longer that the war will end this winter—so we are sad. -Especially when we have to see our men go back to the front after -their all too short leaves. This has happened three times since you -were here, all three going back to the Somme, too, which they all -say is much worse than Verdun ever was. However, they have the -satisfaction, as one of our men said today, (a fine industrious -farmer) of hoping that if they don't come back, at least their -wives and children will have their homes rebuilt. This is my hope -too. Thanking you again for your letter.</p> - -<p>Very sincerely yours,</p> - -<p class="r">(Signed) DAISY POLK.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p>Miss Polk is a most charming young woman, filled with enthusiasm. She -lives in a small house with but two rooms.</p> - - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="XIV" id="XIV"></a><a href="#toc">XIV.</a></h2> - -<h3>ON THE MAIN FRONT</h3> - - -<p class="n"><span class="figleft"><img src="images/017.png" alt="W" /></span>E arrived at Nancy October 7th, at six o'clock P. M. and spent the -evening at a reception given by the Prefect L. Mirman. We met here Madam -Mirman and her two daughters. In the entrance to the prefect's residence -were several large holes which had been blown out by the German shells. -During the reception we were shown an embroidered sheet, filled with -holes. This was taken from the window of a hospital, fired on by the -Germans, July, 1916. The name of the hospital was Point Au Mousson. The -sheet was hanging in a window when the shrapnel was fired into it. This -was considered ample proof that the hospital was fired upon with the -full knowledge that it was a hospital.</p> - -<p>This visit to prefect Mirman's home was a red letter event in our trip. -He is one of the important men of France and is devoting much of his -time to the care of refugees and other good work.</p> - -<p>As we stopped at the entrance of Nancy, we saw an aeroplane flying over -the town. This aeroplane was intended to convoy us to our destination.</p> - -<p>Next day we were driven to the village of Luneville. At this place, as -in nearly all the towns of France, there is a public market house, with -stalls usually presided over by women. Late in September the Germans -dropped from aeroplanes a number of bombs on this market house. The -entire building was destroyed and forty-one women killed, besides a -number of children who were playing about. We saw the ruins of the -market house. This sort of battle waging is called "German terrorism", -otherwise, a "stepping stone to kultur".</p> - -<p>There is an immense palace in Luneville called the Palace of Stanislaus, -occupied by a former King of Poland.</p> - -<p>Our headquarters were at Nancy, where we remained for two days. We were -shown every possible attention by the prefect and under his guidance -visited various parts of the city. Among other places "The Golden Gates" -of Louis XVI and the gate of the old town erected in 1336. We visited -the park and were shown a hole where a German shell had penetrated, the -hole being fully fifty feet deep. We visited the cathedral of St. Elme -and were shown where the beautiful stained glass had been blown out of -the windows. We visited the Ducal Chapel, which dates back to the Tenth -century, where the princes of the House of Hapsburg are entombed. Sand -bags were piled up everywhere to prevent further ruin to this ancient -place. We were shown the ruins of the cooking school reported by -German aviators as a military building and for that reason destroyed.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Cathedral at Nancy.]</p> - -<p>Practically one-half of the town is in ruins. The military barracks are -now used for housing and caring for refugees from all over France and -this is done with great system. The expense is figured down to one franc -per day for each person. We saw there a children's school, playground, -orphanage and Cinema show, and attended church services at which were -present several thousand refugees. We could hear the cannon booming -during the entire services. Many of the refugees were at work making -bags for the trenches and embroidering. We visited the museum and were -shown tombs and urns dating back to the Second century. During a -luncheon at the Cafe Stanislaus an impassioned address was made by the -prefect.</p> - -<p>We left Nancy at 2 P. M. for Chalons on the Marne, one of the three -important military supply centers of France. En-route we passed a number -of ruined villages with scarcely a house left and with but few -inhabitants. We passed through Bar Le Duc also, another distributing -center. On this memorable part of the journey we skirted three battle -fronts, Verdun, Somme and the Marne. We noticed numerous trench soldiers -in squads, enroute to and from the trenches.</p> - -<p>The discipline of the French army is very much different from that of -the English and Germans. The officers and the French soldiers are -comrades. The German and French soldiers have no tents, they sleep in -their overcoats. I expected that when we got into the war zone we would -see tents everywhere, but there was not a tent in sight.</p> - -<p>The distance from Nancy to Chalons on the Marne is 108 miles. All this -distance we travelled close in the rear of the French army and much of -it near the German army. In the early part of the year this ground was -occupied by the Germans, being afterwards retaken by the French. We were -closest to the trenches when passing St. Miheil, where the famous German -salient was still held.</p> - -<p>We reached Chalons on the Marne at 10 o'clock on the evening of October -8th, after a busy and most interesting day. We were quartered here for -the night and remained part of the next morning. During our stay we -could hear the booming of guns continuously, and saw many evidences of -military occupation. At this time the Germans had been forced back about -thirty miles from Chalons on the Marne, and their shells were no longer -feared in this immediate vicinity. The cannon we heard along the greater -portion of the route after passing Bar Le Duc must have been French -guns, although the German big guns can be heard for fifty miles under -favorable circumstances.</p> - -<p>At Chalons on the Marne an incident occurred which made a deep -impression on me, although it was in itself simple enough. It was my -custom to go about much seeking to see whatever was to be seen at all of -our stops. Usually I had a companion, but sometimes went alone. On this -occasion Mr. Warren, of the Commission, was with me. We had entered the -Cathedral of Notre Dame, to inspect its interior and arrived just as a -funeral service was ending. It was one of those pathetic funerals, now -common enough in France, at which the body is not present, in this case -being that of a young man killed in the army and evidently an only son.</p> - -<p>The services ended with a procession around the church and this brought -the mourners to where we were. We fell in with them, this being our -natural impulse and also, we believed, the proper and courteous thing to -do, rather than to rudely retire. When the party reached the main aisle, -the friends gathered around the father and mother and two daughters, -weeping with them and kissing them in the demonstrative way the French -have of showing both grief and affection. Before we knew just what to -do, the mourners melted away, taking with them the mother and daughters. -Mr. Warren also had disappeared and I was left practically alone with -the father of the dead boy. He approached me and extended his hand, -having perhaps read in my face something of my feelings. He knew no -English and I knew no French, but the language of human sympathy is -universal. We grasped hands and the only word uttered was my crude -"Americaine." None other was needed. I could tell by the pressure of the -hand holding mine that my sympathy was appreciated, even though I was -from across the seas and an utter stranger, and any doubts I had felt -about the propriety of remaining were thoroughly dispelled.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: German Trenches Captured by the French.]</p> - -<p>Funerals such as this are very frequent in France. Scarcely a family but -has suffered its loss, and in some cases several sons have been taken -from one home. Among the hundreds of personal cards brought back with me -from France, an astonishing number are bordered deeply with black. These -are the cards of the most prominent people in the places we visited, the -members of the Commission having met few others, and the mourning border -on so many of them shows that in France as well as in England, the upper -classes have borne their full share of the terrific toll levied by the -war.</p> - -<p>Before leaving Chalons on the Marne we visited the canal, the banks of -which were lined with flowers and ivy. We crossed here a bridge built in -the Seventeenth century and still in good condition.</p> - - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="XV" id="XV"></a><a href="#toc">XV.</a></h2> - -<h3>REIMS AND THE TRENCHES</h3> - -<p class="n"><span class="figleft"><img src="images/018.png" alt="S" /></span>OME time during the forenoon of the day following our arrival at -Chalons on the Marne we left in the military automobiles for Reims. This -city is on the south branch of the river Aisne, on which the Germans -made their stand after the battle of the Marne, and had been within -reach of their guns constantly since they stopped retreating after that -battle. It is about ninety miles from Paris. The city was at that time -less than two miles from the actual battle line, trenches extending -close up to its edges. The Germans were very busy and there was abundant -evidence of the fact in the sound of cannon. It was here that we were to -be allowed a visit to the trenches.</p> - -<p>On the way we passed a large number of Hindu-Chinese and Russian -soldiers. We saw two captive balloons, used by the French to direct -artillery fire on their enemies. Thousands of soldiers were coming and -going between the trenches and the encampments behind.</p> - -<p>On this trip we passed through and stopped briefly at an aviation camp, -where the aviators were tending their machines and waiting to be called -for duty in the air. A short stop was also made at a large encampment, -where there must have been at least twenty thousand French soldiers. -This was the largest number we saw at any one time. Here we were shown -concealed trenches and batteries so skillfully hidden that they could -not be seen until you were right upon the guns. We also saw on this ride -several illustrations of how bridges and other military works can be -hidden from aviators by painted scenery and the use of trees. By 11 A.M. -of this day we had come within five miles of the German trenches, behind -which, we were told, were more two million German soldiers and across -from them at least an equal number of French. Of this vast number of -warriors we saw at no time more than twenty thousand. Many were in the -trenches and others in encampments on both sides, within easy reach of -the lines but secure from gun fire.</p> - -<p>We came to the top of a ridge near Reims, and just before reaching the -summit orders were given by the sentinels to separate the automobiles -and run them half a mile apart, as they would be within range of German -guns and might draw the fire if seen in a company. At this point two -members of the Commission suddenly lost their interest in the scenes -ahead and refused to go any further. From this time until we entered -Reims, batteries, many of them concealed, with other signs of real war, -became more numerous.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: The Reims Cathedral Before Its Destruction.]</p> - -<p>At 11:30 A. M. we entered the famous Champagne district, known all over -the world as the locality where grapes for making champagne can be -raised better than anywhere else. We saw here farmers and women working -in the fields and vineyards within a mile of the actual front. They were -within range of German guns and in great danger, but they worked on, -seemingly careless of the fact.</p> - -<p>We passed many "dugouts" occupied by soldiers, and saw soldiers digging -trenches. All the time the guns were roaring, apparently just beyond the -city of Reims. This ground had all been at one time in the hands of the -Germans.</p> - -<p>We reached Reims at noon and were taken direct to the City Club. Here -the Commission was entertained by Robert Lewthwaite, the head of the -great wine firm of Heidsick & Company. At this luncheon we met Col. -Tautot, chief of staff under General Lanquelot, commander in the Reims -sector. Col. Tautot represented his superior, who could not be present, -probably because of more important engagements with the Germans. We also -met Captain Talamon, a staff officer, and Jacques Regnier, sub-prefect -of the Reims district. Col. Tautot had been invested with the ribbon of -the Legion of Honor and within a week of our visit had been in active -service. Out of fifteen members originally on the staff, he alone -survived, all the others having been killed in action or died of wounds.</p> - -<p>In the room where luncheon was served at the City Club was a great hole, -made through the wall by a shell and not yet closed. We were told that -this shell had arrived a few days before our visit. This was quite -appetizing information, but our hosts assured us that we were -comparatively safe, as there had been no firing for some time. I took -their word for it and enjoyed the luncheon after the long and keenly -interesting ride. At this luncheon a curious toast was offered by the -host—"I looks toward you." The proper response was—"I likewise bows."</p> - -<p>After the luncheon Colonel Tautot and the sub-prefect led the Commission -to inspect the ruined cathedral. This was a pitiful and fascinating -sight. This once famous cathedral is practically a wreck. I doubt very -much if it can ever be restored. We were taken into the interior and -were shown how wonderful stained glass windows had been blown out. We -picked up a number of the pieces of fine glass from the ground. The -making of this glass is a lost art and the coloring is most beautiful. I -brought home some of the glass and had it used as settings for a number -of rings which I presented to friends. The sub-prefect presented me, as -a relic, a bone—the front part of a forearm. This cathedral was the -burying place of number of archbishops and ancient royal personages, -and all these tombs were blown up.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Ruins at Reims. Upper and Lower Plates—The Cathedral. -Middle Plate—The Archbishop's Palace.]</p> - -<p>Adjoining the cathedral was the archbishop's palace, famous the world -over, and its contents priceless. This was utterly destroyed. One of our -party, in looking about the ruins, picked up a large sized key, which -proved afterwards to be the key to the archbishop's residence. He was -given permission by the sub-prefect to retain this, and I subsequently -acquired it.</p> - -<p>We also visited the market place and the old Notre Dame church built in -1149 by Charlemagne. This was a most beautiful church, the windows -almost equalling those of the Cathedral of St. Elme at Nancy, but -inferior to those in the Reims cathedral, said to have been the most -beautiful in the world. In this church we saw a statue of Jeanne D'Arc, -and a very fine painting of the "Ascension".</p> - -<p>We were taken to the city hospital at Reims, which had been fired upon -and almost completely destroyed by the Germans while occupied by French -wounded. The range was obtained by the aviators, and then incendiary -bombs were fired. These bombs set fire to the buildings with which they -came in contact. We were told that hundreds of French soldiers were -killed with this mode of warfare. We could hear the bombs on the Aisne -front exploding while we were visiting the ruins of the hospital. We -were next shown around to view the ruins of the town. Twenty-five -hundred acres of houses were almost blown to pieces. We were told that -thousands of bodies of men, women and children were still under the -ruins. In an isolated part of these ruins, absolutely alone, we found -and talked to an old French woman, still occupying her house. She had -refused to move and insisted upon staying in her little home, one or two -rooms having been left.</p> - -<p>Following this visit to the ruins we were permitted to enter the -trenches. A number of the party did not go to the end of the trenches. -However, I concluded to see all there was to be seen, and with Deputy -Damour and Mr. MacArthur, went, escorted by a staff officer detailed for -that duty, to the extreme limit. We went through the trenches to within -one thousand feet of the German firing lines. We could see the German -sentinels through periscopes, and were told to be careful and not show -our heads, which admonition was religiously obeyed.</p> - -<p>This visit to the trenches was one of the most interesting parts of the -trip, and in spite of the danger, I was very glad that I had gone and -had nerve enough to go to the limit. We entered what is known as a -"communication" trench, leading from the edge of the city toward the -front. This was necessary, as the terrain was open and under range of -the German guns. Going down through this long trench we encountered a -network of others, apparently leading in all directions. Our guide knew -them well and led us forward until we could, by means of a contrivance -for that purpose, look over the top and see the German trenches, less -than one thousand yards away. We saw few German soldiers, although -occasionally we were shown where a sentinel was on duty, carefully -concealed to save himself from French bullets.</p> - -<p>The trenches in this section are irregular in width and depth. As a -general thing they are not more than three feet wide at the bottom and -about five feet deep. The earth is thrown up at the side next to the -enemy. At short intervals along the trench holes are scooped out, into -which the soldiers can go when fighting is not actually in progress. -Some of these caves were quite large and had in them straw and sometimes -a bench. There were cooking utensils and buckets for water. The bottoms -of the trenches are generally dry, or were when we saw them. In some -places they have boards on the bottom. The sides are steep and are -constantly crumbling.</p> - -<p>Some of the trenches we entered had been made by the Germans, others by -the French. Those close up to the front seemed to have been dug but a -short time, but farther back they were already beginning to look -ancient. In some places grass was growing in the sides and here and -there flowers. Some of these trenches had not been used to any extent -during the summer. They are so arranged that each line is connected with -the one in its front and rear by cross trenches, and it is through these -that the soldiers enter and leave the actual fighting zone.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Key of Archbishop's Palace at Reims and Bone from Twelfth -Century Tombs Opened by German Shells.]</p> - -<p>We saw many French soldiers in the trenches. They seemed to be well fed -and comfortable. At the time we were there there was no actual fighting, -of course, but an occasional shot rang out across "no man's land," when -sentries on either side thought they saw a chance to do execution. The -ground between Reims and the battle line is a complete network of these -trenches, and years will be required to level it again after the war is -over.</p> - -<p>From the advanced trench toward the German lines, at the points where we -looked, there was no sign of war except an occasional shell hole and the -barbed wire entanglements. The country was green and seemed to be at -peace, except for the sound of the guns. It was hard to believe that we -were looking across a narrow strip, on the other side of which were -millions of armed men and every form of death and destruction that has -been invented. Yet all this was there.</p> - -<p>Upon coming out of the trenches we were unable to find our automobiles, -the military authorities having ordered them to separate, so that they -would not prove an attraction to the German aeroplanes, otherwise they -would undoubtedly have been fired upon.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Trenches Visited by the Commission]</p> - -<p>Following this visit to the trenches, we were taken to the famous wine -cellars of Heidsick & Co., containing twelve miles of underground -vaults. A few days previous to our visit a German bomb had struck the -Heidsick wine cellar and destroyed forty thousand bottles of champagne, -believed to be the largest number of bottles opened at any one time in -the history of the world. These vaults, during the bombardments, which -were numerous, are a safety place for the inhabitants and thousands take -refuge in the wine cellars. We were told that there was not a single -bottle of champagne missed, a testimony to the honesty of the French -people. This visit to the wine cellars was intensely interesting.</p> - -<p>While driving about the ruined town, the automobile in which I happened -to be was guided by a chauffeur unfamiliar with the location, and he -drove us across the German lines within three minutes ride of the German -headquarters. The major in charge of the automobile squad discovered the -error. We were told afterwards that we had a narrow escape from being -made prisoners. While at Reims we were at all times within twenty-five -minutes walk of the Germans and within ten minutes ride in the motor.</p> - -<p>The population at Reims before the war was one hundred and eighteen -thousand. It is now reduced to eighteen thousand, the other hundred -thousand having become refugees, soldiers and "missing". We visited a -Twelfth century cathedral which, strange to say, had not been touched. -While in this cathedral we could hear the guns booming.</p> - -<p>We returned to Chalons on the Marne the same evening, arriving there at -8:30 P.M., it being considered unsafe to remain at Reims. After our -dinner at Chalons on the Marne, Dr. Mailloux timed the firing of the -cannon and announced that for a space of half an hour there was one -fired every two seconds.</p> - -<p>We left Chalons on the Marne at 11:30 A.M. on the following day by -railroad. The train was filled with officers returning from the front. -We saw a number of Red Cross girls on this train. One had a double -decoration. As we passed along we saw thousands of soldiers enroute to -the front, among them one full regiment. We also saw a large detachment -of German prisoners being transferred, with the letters "P. G." quite -large on the back of each prisoner. "P. G." means prison garb.</p> - -<p>In the railroad trains in both England and France appears the -following:—</p> - -<div class="block"><p class="n"> -Be Silent!<br /> -Be watchful!<br /> -Hostile ears are listening to you!<br /> -Issued by the Minister of War.</p> -</div> - - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="XVI" id="XVI"></a><a href="#toc">XVI.</a></h2> - -<h3>BACK TO PARIS</h3> - - -<p class="n"><span class="figleft"><img src="images/019.png" alt="W" /></span>E arrived at Paris at three o'clock P.M., October 17th, and here -received our first news of the submarine work off Nantucket. In the -evening we met Antoine Borrel, deputy from Savoy, on six days' leave of -absence from the Alsace Lorraine district. He entered the war a common -soldier and now has the Legion of Honor on his breast.</p> - -<p>On Wednesday, October 11th, we visited Consul Thackara and arranged -about our passports.</p> - -<p>I succeeded in securing some fine war relics and a partial line of -French war posters which I brought home with me.</p> - -<p>On Thursday, October 12th, with Mr. Weare, of the United States Steel -Corporation, I called upon Consul Thackara, Charge d'Affairs Bliss, and -other friends at the Embassy. We also visited the general offices of the -Schneider Company.</p> - -<p>On Friday, October 13th, a meeting of the Commissioners was held and, -although our passage had been engaged on the Rochambeau of the French -line, it was decided to cancel the passage and return to America by way -of the American line. This was a disappointment to some of the -Commissioners, although the change appeared to be inevitable. The -secretary of the Commission then set about to get us safely across the -Channel. We were told we would be convoyed by a British vessel, usually -used in carrying soldiers. We were fed on this information for three -days, telegrams were sent to the American Embassy in London and a lot of -valuable time wasted. The whole scheme proved to be a myth, and we were -obliged to content ourselves with getting to England the same as -ordinary mortals.</p> - -<p>On Friday, October 13th, Charge d'Affairs Bliss gave a luncheon to some -of the members of the Commission, and this was an enjoyable affair.</p> - -<p>We were informed in the evening that accommodations had been secured on -the steamer "Philadelphia", of the American line, sailing October 21st, -from Liverpool. Deputy Damour was greatly disappointed, as he had -planned a farewell dinner at Bordeaux and great preparations had been -made by the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce for this event.</p> - -<p>An informal supper was given Deputy Damour at the Hotel de Crillon at -which some of the members of the Commission were present.</p> - -<p class="center"><a name="king" id="king"></a><img src="images/020.png" alt="King Albert's address to the Belgians" /></p> - -<p>A neighbour haughty in its strength without the slightest provocation -has torn up the treaty bearing its signature and has violated the -territory of our fathers because we refused to forfeit our honor. It has -attacked us. Seeing its independence threatened the nation trembled and -its children sprang to the frontier, valiant soldiers in a sacred cause. -I have confidence in your tenacious courage. I greet you in the name of -Belgium a fellow citizen who is proud of you.</p> - - -<p>Notwithstanding the war, we noticed some signs of gaiety in Paris. On -Saturday evening I visited the Follies Bergere, where there was fine -music and some dancing. The audience contained principally soldiers on -six days' leave of absence from the front.</p> - -<p>On Sunday, October 15th, we had a joint meeting with the American -Chamber of Commerce and discussed the tariff question, credits and other -things too numerous to mention.</p> - -<p>On Sunday afternoon I visited the American Ambulance for the third time. -I paid particular attention to the pathological department. I was shown -a piece of spine with an imbedded bullet visible, and other specimens -entirely too realistic for me to look at. I was shown an electric -apparatus for locating bullets and shells, without X-ray treatment, I -saw a badly wounded soldier undergoing the Carrel treatment. Dr. -Sherman, chief surgeon of the Carnegie Steel Company, had spent two -months in France investigating this treatment. He was most thoroughly -imbued with its usefulness and enthusiastic about introducing it in the -hospitals of the Steel Corporation in the United States. My own belief -is that this is an advanced stage in surgery and, in fact, is an epochal -discovery. It will no doubt be adopted, not only in the military -hospitals of the world, but in other hospitals. A description of the -treatment was furnished me by Dr. Lee, of the University of -Pennsylvania, who had spent several months in Paris hospitals, and also -by Mr. Bennet, who was the superintendent of the American ambulance. -These descriptions follow in later pages, the subject being of vast -importance to those interested in the cause of humanity.</p> - -<p>On Monday, October 16th, we met, at the Hotel de Crilion, the Belgian -Chamber of Commerce. This was a notable gathering. The president of the -Chamber of Commerce, Rene Nagelmackers, made a passionate and forceful -address, thanking all the United States for the aid and assistance -rendered the Belgians and setting forth their needs. He said a line of -vessels had already been arranged for and financed, and that it was the -intention of the Belgian Government to bring to France and deposit where -they could be quickly reached, machinery, tools and everything needed to -immediately rehabilitate Belgium. The intention was to have these in -readiness so that restoration can be promptly effected and all Belgians -returned to their native soil. The president and other members of the -Chamber expressed a belief that all Belgium will again be restored to -its rightful owners. On materials and machinery they will want fair -prices, but they will be in need of large quantities of these and the -United States will, on equal terms, be given the preference. A number of -other members of the Belgian Chamber of Commerce spoke, some of them in -English and some in French. Victor Haardt, a member residing temporarily -in Paris, suggested that the meeting was important and should be brought -to the attention of the Belgian Government. When it became known that -I was a personal acquaintance of King Albert, a number of the delegates -suggested that I write to him and give an account of the conference and -they would in turn write an official account of it. This I proceeded to -do, the King's military address having been furnished me by one of the -members. I gave the King in my letter full particulars of the meeting -and in response received the following letter from his secretary soon -after my arrival home:</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Photograph of King Albert of Belgium, with the Royal -Autograph.]</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p class="r">La Cambre, Belgium, October 29th, 1916.<br /> -Office of the Secretary to the King and Queen.</p> - -<p>Mr. J. G. Butler, Jr. -Youngstown, Ohio.</p> - -<p>Dear Sir:—</p> - -<p>I was particularly pleased to read to his Majesty your good letter, -and to receive the pamphlet.</p> - -<p>I am charged by the King to thank you for the sentiments which you -have expressed and for your sympathy for Belgium.</p> - -<p>Our Sovereign wishes you to know that he recalls with pleasure the -meeting with the Directors of the American Iron and Steel Institute -at Brussels.</p> - -<p>I beg you to accept, dear sir, the assurance of my highest regards,</p> - -<p class="r">J. INGENBLECK, Secretary.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p>I spent a good part of the following day in buying war relics, many of -them made by the soldiers in the trenches out of such material as -exploded shells, buttons from the uniforms of dead soldiers, etc. I -purchased some unique postal cards, painted by hand in the trenches by -soldiers who were artists. Other relics consisted of hat pins, napkin -rings, bracelets and finger rings, all made as before stated, from war -material.</p> - -<p>A copy of an English publication was brought to my attention during the -Belgian conference, and I was struck by a paragraph which is quoted:—</p> - -<div class="block"> -<p class="center">SUBMARINING AMERICA</p> - -<p>What Germany is Doing now is Submarining -the Monroe Doctrine and that is Submarining America.</p> -</div> - -<p>In this connection there was some discussion and I was surprised to -learn that the French, even those who are at the head of things, have a -very hazy idea of what the Monroe Doctrine is. I explained to them that -it was a statement made in a message to Congress by President Monroe in -1823, in which he laid down in a few words the principle that America, -because of her history and the form of government established in the -western world, was not a proper place for the exploitation of despotic -governments, and that any attempt on the part of European nations to -gain a foothold or to extend their territorial interests on the American -continent would be regarded as an act unfriendly to the United States. I -explained that this statement was never questioned and had become an -accepted principle. The explanation seemed to please the French and -Belgians to whom it was translated, and they apparently approve of the -idea.</p> - -<p>Coming back to America, by the way, I found that there was no occasion -to be surprised at lack of understanding of the Monroe Doctrine abroad, -as few of us understand just what it is at home.</p> - -<p>On October 17th, I visited the American Embassy and met there, among -others, Captain Eugene Rosetti, a captain in the Foreign Legion. This -Legion was recruited from friends of France who were not Frenchmen, but -largely Americans. When the war broke out this body was thirty-six -thousand strong, and on the date I talked with Captain Rosetti there -were but thirteen hundred survivors. The Foreign Legion was largely in -evidence at the early part of the war and stories of its bravery were -heard everywhere.</p> - -<p>In the evening Dr. Veditz made an address before the Commissioners, -telling of the work he was engaged in and what he had accomplished.</p> - -<p>On October 18th, the Commission gave a luncheon to Wilbur J. Carr, -Consul in Europe with headquarters in Washington. Some very plain talk -was in evidence as to the inefficiency of some of the American consuls. -Consul Carr delivered a very forceful address. He had been in the -consular service for nearly a quarter of a century and is working, with -much success, to better the service.</p> - - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="XVII" id="XVII"></a><a href="#toc">XVII.</a></h2> - -<h3>ON THE WAY HOME—ENGLAND</h3> - - -<p class="n"><span class="figleft"><img src="images/021.png" alt="O" /></span>N this date, October 18th, the commission left Paris for Havre at 4:50 -P.M., its destination being London, by way of Southampton. We boarded -the boat at Havre after a very rigid inspection of passports, baggage, -etc. It was a rough night and many were seasick. The boat was crowded to -repletion and the trip was a very uncomfortable experience. We had been -escorted from Paris to Havre by Captain Sayles, of the American Embassy. -This was one of the many courtesies shown us by the American Embassy in -Paris under the direction of Robert Bliss, Charge d'Affaires, in the -absence of Ambassador Sharp. I had a very interesting talk with Captain -Sayles. His first question came out quickly and rather abruptly. "What -most impressed you on your trip?" I replied, without hesitation: "The -spirit of France and the morale of the French soldier and the French -people. All France is thinking and working and trying to do what they -can to help save France." Captain Sayles said it was a tradition that -when events required it, France always rose to the occasion and passed -the crisis successfully. He said also that the battle of the Marne, as -has been said previously by many others, settled the war. That the -Kaiser and the Prussian militants knew then they were beaten and have -been trying for a year and a half to find a way out. There is no doubt -in the opinion of Captain Sayles, that the German people are deceived -and still think that Germany will win the war. They are fed upon false -information.</p> - -<p>In this connection I had a talk with Allyn B. Carrick, an American who -had spent several months in Germany during the past year and had -recently returned from there. He was an American and understood German, -and was a good listener. He said the people in Germany are talking among -themselves, criticising the government, especially the Kaiser and the -Crown Prince, and he felt that some day something would happen which -would bring trouble. He said there was great distress all over Germany. -Mr. Carrick got his information by keeping his ears open in cafes, -railroad stations, hotels and passenger trains.</p> - -<p>When the conflict is over it is my judgment that international law will -be overhauled and some of the German methods of war on innocent women -and children will be eliminated, such as the shelling of non-combatants -and bomb-throwing. Terrorism in ghastly forms is now a part of the -German method of fighting the enemy.</p> - -<p>The Kaiser has for many years considered himself a Charlemagne, -Frederick the Great and Napoleon the First rolled into one. Results are -developing which put him in the class of Napoleon the Third, or even -below that monarch in ability.</p> - -<p>We arrived at Southampton on Thursday, October 19th, at 9 A.M. There was -much red tape in evidence and many questions asked the commissioners. We -were warned that no letters could be carried for delivery, and that a -violation of this order would result in arrest of anyone guilty.</p> - -<p>After some little delay and much needed assistance from friends of -America, our baggage was registered and incidentally "greased" through -to London. We arrived in London at 1 P.M. Considerable evidence was here -apparent of the recent visit of the Zeppelins. One had been captured and -partially destroyed, and I was fortunate in securing some pieces as -relics. I met here Dr. Sherman, who has been in close touch with and -assisted Alexander Carrel with reference to the Carrel technique, the -recent antiseptic discovered for wounds and injuries, used so -successfully for the prevention of blood poisoning. The fluid is a -solution of bleaching lime with bi-carbonate of soda, filtered or poured -through the wounds. Thousands of lives have been saved by this -discovery. The method has been adopted by the Italian, French and -Belgian governments, and is being considered by the English government.</p> - -<p>On the day following our arrival in London, I called upon Consul General -Skinner and found him busy at work. Inquiries resulted in receiving a -most excellent account of his stewardship. He is very much alive to -American interests.</p> - -<p>I also met H. W. Thornton, formerly a high official in the Pennsylvania -Railroad system, but now in charge of the Great Eastern Railroad in -England. He is an important personage, and, from information obtained, -has made good. He is one of the counsellors in close touch with the war -department.</p> - -<p>While in London we were at the Savoy hotel. I was struck by a notice -posted on the bedroom-door.<br /> </p> - -<div class="block"> -<p class="center">DEFENCE OF THE REALM ACT.<br /> -Important notice.</p> - -<p>Visitors occupying rooms are now held responsible by the -Authorities for the proper control of the lights in the rooms they -occupy.</p> - -<p>It is absolutely necessary that they should see that the blinds and -curtains of the rooms they occupy are closely drawn so that no -light can leak through.</p> - -<p>It is imperative also to switch off all lights before attempting to -open or close a window, if this necessitates drawing the blinds.</p> - - -<p>These regulations apply to all rooms occupied, including bathrooms.<br /> </p> -</div> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: French Marines Operating 75-mm Gun on Shipboard.]</p> - -<p>I attended the Hippodrome in London, walking through the darkness -escorted by a friend. The show was pretty much with reference to the -war. I was attracted by the notice at the bottom of the program, which -is copied below.</p> - -<div class="block"> -<p>Arrangements have been made that warning of a threatened air raid -will be communicated by the Military Authorities to this theatre.</p> - -<p>On receipt of any such warning the audience will be informed, with -a view to enable persons who may wish to proceed home, to do so.</p> - -<p>The warning will be communicated, so far as possible, at least 20 -minutes before any actual attack can take place. There will, -therefore, be no cause for alarm or undue haste.</p> - -<p>Those who decide to leave are warned not to loiter about the -streets, and if bombardment or gunfire commences before they reach -home, they should at once take cover.</p> - -<p>By order of The Commissioner of Police of the Metropolis.</p> -<p class="r">New Scotland Yard, S. W.</p> -</div> - -<p>The anniversary of Trafalgar Day was celebrated while we were in London. -This was one of the most decisive battles in the history of the world. -As an English view of the battle of Trafalgar I copy below the editorial -from the Daily-Graphic, and might add, in my own words, that but for the -British navy our sea-coast cities, both on the Atlantic and Pacific, -might easily have been wiped out before this time.<br /> </p> - -<div class="block"> -<p class="center">TRAFALGAR DAY</p> - -<p>To-day is the anniversary of one of the most decisive battles in -the history of the world. Our minds rest naturally enough on -Waterloo as the battle which finally destroyed Napoleon's power in -1815, to the great relief of France, as well as of all the rest of -Europe. But it was the battle of Trafalgar, ten years previously, -which secured to Great Britain the command of the sea and so -prepared the way for Napoleon's downfall. The same factors that -operated a century ago are operating today. There has been no -Trafalgar to wipe the enemy's ships off the sea, but our sea -supremacy was so well secured before the war began that the enemy -has only once ventured to challenge it, with disastrous results to -himself off the Jutland coast. The effect of British sea supremacy -has been felt from the first day of the war. We were able by our -intervention at once to prevent Germany from carrying out her -scheme of a naval descent on the French coast. The same sea-power -has since enabled us to transport in safety armies probably -aggregating over two million men to France, the Dardanelles, Egypt, -Mesopotamia, Salonica, the Cameroons and German East Africa. The -larger portion of these armies has naturally been drawn from the -United Kingdom, but large contingents have come from Canada, -Australia, India, South Africa and the West Indies. None of these -movements of troops would have been possible unless we had secured -the command of the sea. In addition, our sea supremacy has enabled -us to maintain our commerce with the whole of the world, while -blocking German commerce wherever we chose to use our power. The -British Navy is the force which has determined the final defeat of -Germany, and so long as we maintain that force at adequate strength -we can face without flinching any danger that may threaten us from -any part of the world.</p> -</div> - -<p>Saturday, October 21st, was the day of sailing from Liverpool. We left -London at 10:20 A.M. on the London & Northwestern Railroad for Liverpool -and arrived at the latter place at 2:30 P.M. We boarded the steamer -Philadelphia, of the American line, and noticed on the side of the boat -an immense American flag painted in colors, as well as the words -"American Line". There was also a row of electric lights, visible -several miles distant, surrounding the flag and the name of the boat. -There were five lights on each side of the boat and each light had five -incandescent bulbs, making fifty lights in all. The flag painted on the -side of the steamer was 8 x 15 feet.</p> - -<p>The Philadelphia left the dock at Liverpool at 4 P.M. on a rough sea. -Mr. E. A. Warren, a member of the Commission, stopped over a day in -Manchester and was in close communication with friends in that city. -Manchester has a population of half a million people. It is the center -of the cotton manufacture of the world. Mr. Warren is a manufacturer of -textile machinery and represented the textile industry on the -Commission. He reported that all the manufacturers of textile machinery -in England are running on war munitions. The entire steel industry in -England is under the control of the government, and the sale of steel -for any purpose cannot be made without governmental consent. Mr. Warren -reported also, as coming from friends, that England was at that time -growing uneasy over the fact that the United States government requested -that British war vessels keep away from our coast and then allowed the -U-boat 53 to land at Newport and obtain information in regard to the -sailing of vessels, which it then proceeded to torpedo. This occurred -about the time of the blowing up of vessels off Nantucket.</p> - -<p>The Manchester stock exchange has a membership of ten thousand and is -open every day except Sunday. There are no auction sales, no excitement -or loud talk, no gesticulating, as is the case in New York, particularly -on the curb. The business is all done in a quiet, conversational tone. -Cotton is the principal commodity traded in.</p> - -<p>A feeling is growing in England that the United States should have -entered the war, which the English believe they are fighting for the -cause of civilization and for the preservation of the liberty of the -United States as well as of England. The feeling is also somewhat -prevalent that the United States is only interested so far as making -money is concerned. This feeling was apparently very bitter.</p> - -<p>England today is an armed camp. From end to end of the country there is -hardly a man, woman or half-grown child who is not working, making -ammunition, guarding the coast, doing police duty, watching for -Zeppelins, making uniforms or shoes, or moving provisions or supplies of -all kinds for an army of five million men, with the British navy thrown -in. There are two thousand munition factories in England and more under -construction. I was told of one plant being built in units extending for -eight miles. These munition factories employ one million men and women. -There are other works being built to make aeroplanes, cannons, machine -guns and hand grenades. All this since the war opened. Great Britain has -mobilized the ship yards and they are working overtime to build vessels. -This has more than offset the loss of vessels destroyed by the Germans.</p> - -<p>America is doing a great deal in the way of Red Cross and relief work, -but it is a mere bagatelle compared with the activities of England in -this direction. The women of England are as fully awake as are the women -of France. Thousands are at work in hospitals and caring for the -refugees. Girls are at work making horse-shoes for the army horses. -These girls are cultivated, aristocratic women, members of golf and -hockey clubs. Others are working on farms, handling teams, pitching hay, -or driving cattle to market. Thousands of women are occupied as -chauffeurs at the various fronts. Hundreds of English women are living -through all kinds of weather in tents just behind the firing lines, -acting as stretcher bearers and driving ambulances.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Nancy—Place Stanislas]</p> - -<p>While in London I met a number of old friends, many of them incidentally -connected with the government and very much alive to the situation. The -concensus of opinion of these friends is that failure of the Allies to -win the war means the death-warrant of France and the British Empire; -that there is no middle course; that the war will be fought to a finish -and the Allies will be victorious; that the Kaiser and the Prussian -military system will be annihilated, the German people will arise, and -the Republic of Germany will be the result.</p> - -<p>Among other things spoken of there was the incident of Dewey at Manila -and the near clash over Samoa. It will be remembered that Dewey fired a -shot across the bows of a German vessel. To people in London the -Venezuelan embroglio proved that the Kaiser had in mind smashing the -Monroe Doctrine. Germany yielded to us in both cases. President -Cleveland was at the helm when the Venezuelan controversy came and the -immortal McKinley was in the chair when Manila was taken. Cleveland, -Harrison and McKinley all stood up for our rights and Germany backed -clear down, facts which the English have not overlooked.</p> - - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="XVIII" id="XVIII"></a><a href="#toc">XVIII.</a></h2> - -<h3>ON THE BROAD ATLANTIC</h3> - -<p class="n"><span class="figleft"><img src="images/022.png" alt="D" /></span>URING Sunday following our sailing we passed through the Irish Sea, -which was very rough. The davits were taken down and the passengers -ordered below. On Monday the sea was somewhat calmer. During the day I -met Dr. Lee, who had been in the service of the American Ambulance for a -year and a half. He is quite familiar with and believes in the Carrel -treatment. He said that nearly two million British soldiers had been -innoculated against typhoid fever and only twenty-five had died out of -this vast number during a period of eighteen months.</p> - -<p>On Tuesday, October 24th, we encountered another very rough sea. Old -ocean travelers said it was the roughest day they had ever experienced -in crossing the ocean. I was loath to admit seasickness, but when I -found the dining room vacant and everyone on board, including some of -the crew, unable to be about, I was forced to recognize myself among the -number so affected. On this day the ocean was a sight to behold. I could -see the dashing waves break high, not on a rock-bound coast, but on top -of the ship, inundating my cabin. The waves were at times fully fifty -feet high; stanchions on deck were crushed and the passengers were -ordered to their cabins.</p> - -<p>Thursday, October 26th, found the ocean calm and the sun shining. On -this date I was expected in St. Louis at the semi-annual meeting of the -American Iron & Steel Institute, and was booked for an address. All I -could do was to send a Marconigram: "Gary, American Steel Institute, St. -Louis: Absence regretted. Kind wishes for all members."</p> - -<p>Friday, October 27th, was a bright, clear morning and the boat was -making good time, with prospects of landing early Sunday morning. With -the aid of Mr. Roche I completed the translation of the Le Creusot -welfare book.</p> - -<p>I had the pleasure of meeting on the boat Mr. H. P. Davison, a member of -the firm of J. P. Morgan & Co. He is a plain-spoken gentleman with a -strong personality. He is one of the leading partners in the firm of J. -P. Morgan & Co. and talks and thinks in millions.</p> - -<p>On the boat I talked with an Englishman who saw the last Zeppelin come -down near London. He said the English aviators have solved the problem -of destroying Zeppelins. The Zeppelin contains a large amount of liquid -explosives and firing with incendiary bombs it takes but a few minutes -to destroy the huge air vessel.</p> - -<p>We reached the dock in New York on Saturday evening and remained on -board over night. Early Sunday morning the quarantine officer appeared. -The good old Philadelphia docked at 9 A.M. and after the inspection of -baggage, which was more rigid than usual, the journey was over. We were -met on the boat by numerous reporters. I gave an interview of which the -following is a copy:—<br /> </p> - -<div class="block"> -<p class="center">ALLIES WILL WIN WAR, SAYS MR. BUTLER</p> - -<p class="center">"Kitchener Right Predicting Three-Year Conflict."</p> - -<p>That the Entente Allies, by the greatness and efficiency of their -military preparations and by their wonderful financial strength, -will push the European war to a complete victory regardless of the -cost in life and treasure, is the opinion expressed by Joseph G. -Butler, President of the American Pig Iron Association, on his -arrival here today on board the steamship Philadelphia' of the -American line, from Liverpool.</p> - -<p>Mr. Butler was a member of the American Industrial Commission which -went abroad late in August to study economic conditions in France, -and hence had excellent opportunities to see the great military -preparations being made by France. He was one out of the twelve -members of the commission who returned today by the Philadelphia.</p> - -<p class="center">A Vast Military Camp</p> - -<p>"All France is a vast military camp," he said, "and her people from -the President down are deadly in earnest and determined to continue -their victories regardless of the cost in life and treasure. -England is fully as much in earnest as France and has buckled down -to the task of winning the fight for civilization, as Mr. Lloyd -George phrased it in an interview I had with him in Paris.</p> - -<p>"I firmly believe that the Allies will win. I feel certain that -the Kaiser and the Prussian military authorities realize that they -have lost and are casting about for some means of bringing the war -to a close, hoping that better terms can be obtained now than later -on. The German people must sooner or later learn the real condition -of affairs, and then I believe they will make themselves heard in -no uncertain manner.</p> - -<p class="center">Will Never Let Up</p> - -<p>"The battle of the Marne settled the controversy in favor of France -and her allies," he continued. "Earl Kitchener predicted a -three-year war, and I believe he did not underestimate it.</p> - -<p>"The Allies will never let up until they have won a complete and -final victory.</p> - -<p>"I am more convinced of this now than I have been on the ground and -learned first hand not only of their complete equipment of men and -munitions, but also of their wonderful financial strength. We in -America know altogether too little of the astonishing richness of -both England and France, and the sooner we wake up to our -opportunities and encourage in every way the increasing of our -trade with them the better off we will be."</p> -</div> - -<p>I reached home early Monday morning glad to be again in my native town. -Before landing I had written an account of the French steel industry in -war-time and had obtained permission from Mr. Nichols, as Chairman, to -make an advance publication of this document in the Iron Age and the -Iron Trade Review. I had in mind that something of this kind would be -expected by my fellow steel manufacturers, and if we waited until the -full report of the Commission was made, the information would be stale. -This article appeared in many of the trade journals and is republished -in the chapter following.</p> - - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="XIX" id="XIX"></a><a href="#toc">XIX.</a></h2> - -<h3>THE FRENCH STEEL INDUSTRY IN WAR TIME</h3> - -<p class="n"><span class="figleft"><img src="images/023.png" alt="T" /></span>HE individual report on the condition of the iron and steel industries -in France, referred to in the proceeding chapter, together with the -comments of The Iron Age thereon, were as follows: Joseph G. Butler, -Jr., Youngstown, Ohio, who represented the steel trade of the country on -the American Industrial Commission to France, arrived in New York on the -return journey of the commission on Oct. 29. While the general report of -the commission, which went out under the auspices of the American -Manufacturers' Export Association, will not be published until late in -the year, The Iron Age is able to give its readers below Mr. Butler's -report of his investigations into the war status of the iron and steel -industry of France.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p>W. W. Nichols,</p> - -<p>Chairman American Industrial Commission to France.</p> - -<p>My dear Sir:—</p> - -<p>In accordance with your request, I beg to submit the following -report, which is the result of observations and information -obtained, regarding the particular industry represented by me.</p> - -<p>Quite unfortunately, there were only a few visits to steel plants -of any importance and the information gained is rather superficial. -I noticed a dearth of labor-saving devices, and quite prominently -the absence of safety appliances. I also observed that notices to -the employees calling attention to probable dangers were not as -plentiful as in any model plant in the United States. It is quite -probable that there are many plants in France that are more -up-to-date than those we visited.</p> - -<p>I have information in regard to the condition of the iron and steel -business in France at the outbreak of the war, but we are only -concerned with its present condition and its probable condition -when the war is ended.</p> - -<p>The acquisition by Germany at the close of the so-called -Franco-Prussian war resulted, as in well known, in Germany taking -over the tremendous fields of iron ore and coal located in -Alsace-Lorraine. It is my belief that this absorption is largely -responsible for the prosperous condition of the iron and steel -business in Germany and its being in second place in the world's -production. I am assured by men prominent in the iron and steel -trade in France, and by others connected with the government, that -the war will not end until these valuable mineral deposits have -been restored to France. It is remarkable that with this serious -handicap, France has been able to accomplish so much in the way of -steel supplies for its munition plants and other plants making war -material accessories.</p> - -<p>From my observation, nearly all the iron and steel now produced in -France is being turned into war material and materials required for -other purposes have been furnished in a minimum and scanty way. In -other words, the whole of the iron and steel interests in France -have been mobilized by the French Government.</p> - -<p>The last report I have seen on steel and iron production in France -is dated May, 1915, but I am told on good authority that since that -date the production has doubled.</p> - -<p>With the reacquisition of the Alsace-Lorraine iron and coal -deposits and possibly the acquirement of other fields which our -French friends seem to have in mind there will still be a shortage -of coal. However, it is expected that after the war closes, France -will necessarily be obliged to export a good portion of its -production of iron and steel, by reason of the increased -productive capacity of its iron and steel plants.</p> - -<p>Incidentally I might mention that, when we were in Marseilles my -attention was called by the Chamber of Commerce to the fact that -France would be in a condition to export large quantities of iron -ore from Algeria to the United States, and if this project could be -worked out and return cargoes of American coal brought to France it -would be very desirable, meeting the shortage of coal, which is -inevitable. The analysis of this Algerian ore shows the quality to -be such as would produce high-grade steel materials. A detailed -analysis will be furnished to any one who may be interested.</p> - -<p>It is interesting to note that in the departments of Calvados, -Manche and Orne, there are rich deposits of iron ore yielding in -some cases 45 to 50 per cent metallic iron. These deposits before -the war were leased by the Thyssen group of German steel -manufacturers, but are now in the hands of the French -sequestrators. I understand that quantities of this ore also were -in great demand, and frequently shipped to the iron works of South -Wales.</p> - -<p>I examined the steel plant making steel by the electrical process, -but the examination was very brief. I have assurance, however, that -the manufacture of steel by electricity in France has been very -successful not only mechanically but financially and is sure to -grow. There seems to be a large area in the eastern part of France -where water-power is available, and I think that many new plants, -and much activity will prevail in this particular region, when -affairs again become settled. The use of water-power will overcome -to a large extent the shortage of coal.</p> - -<p>I think that when the war ends, the imports to France from the -United States of iron and steel will be confined to special forms -and that France will be able to compete not only with the United -States, but also with other countries in the matter of exports of -general iron and steel products.</p> - -<p>With the port improvements contemplated at Bordeaux and Marseilles, -world-wide markets will be opened for France. The contemplated -improvements at both these places will, no doubt, be fully cared -for in other special reports, or perhaps in the general body of the -report which the commission may issue. The canal at Marseilles -should receive special mention in the general report.</p> - -<p>The tariff question in France is in about the same condition as in -the United States, with the exception that in France custom duties -are handled quickly and settled expeditiously by the government. -Duties may be raised or lowered over night to meet contingencies.</p> - -<p>The labor in French iron and steel plants is paid very much less -than in the United States; in many instances one-half and even -less. There are very few disturbances, and dictatorial labor unions -such as we have in the United States are unknown in France.</p> - -<p>A large number of women are employed in France doing men's work, -which keeps wages at a lower level than would otherwise be -possible. All the members of the commission have seen in their -travels women doing men's work, and performing manual labor which -in our country would not be thought of for a moment. Employment of -women in steel and munition plants has, of course, increased the -number of women workers since the war commenced. This, I think, is -largely brought about by the patriotic feeling which prevails all -over France. "Working for France" is a slogan rooted and imbedded -in the minds of the people, whether they are soldiers, or engaged -in any other occupation which may tend to end the war and save -France.</p> - -<p>Cooperation in France among all manufacturers of iron and steel and -in fact all other industrial works, is marvelous, and could well be -imitated in our own country. The various special branches of metal -trades have both local and national syndicate organizations for the -discussion of their trade problems, and means of voicing the -particular needs of their trade, on which a majority sentiment has -been expressed. These chamber syndicates are in turn combined into -a National Union. These national unions are members of the Comite -des Forges de France, which is the cap stone of the trade -organizations of the steel and iron industries. The most striking -fact to an American regarding the personnel of the governing board -and general committee of the Comite des Forges de France is that a -considerable number of its members are in one or the other of the -legislative bodies, and practically hold positions at the head of -the Government Committees, organized to look after the very -business in which they are engaged.</p> - -<p>In spite of the fact that at the beginning of trench warfare, -France had lost behind the German line 80 per cent of her normal -pig-iron production, and 70 per cent of her steel production, it -has been possible by the utilization of lower grade ore in other -districts of France, and which were not exploited to any extent -previously, to increase the steel production of the country 100 per -cent over that of last year. The interesting fact regarding this is -that of the production which has been cut off the larger part in -pig iron is of so-called Thomas iron (non-Bessemer), and in the -case of steel, mostly "Martin" or acid open hearth. Neither of -these products enters to any considerable extent into the -manufacture of projectiles. The plants in the center and southern -part of France were already producing the special qualities of -steel required for artillery use, hence the amount of special -quality steel brought in from foreign countries, in both the raw -and semi-manufactured state, was an immediate necessity for the -country at outbreak of hostilities. It is also noticeable, and -based on information obtained from leading steel manufacturers, -that many idle and in some cases abandoned plants have been -rehabilitated and utilized as far as possible. As a matter of fact, -I am told that there is not a single idle plant of any kind -formerly engaged in the manufacture of fabrication of steel that -is not now in full operation, either in its original form or by -being transformed into a munitions plant.</p> - -<p>It is only too evident that the present pre-occupation of steel -manufacturers is to bend every effort to assist in the final -military victory of the Allies. However, I met steel manufacturers, -conversing with them freely, and their mental attitude is that when -the military victory has been achieved and France has again entered -into possession of her own, they are determined to succeed in -producing a close union with the British producers and thus prevent -a rapid return of German industrial prosperity. With this fact in -mind, it seems clear to me that the United States will have to make -up its mind in which field it will choose to work. It certainly -will be impossible to continue to hold a position of theoretical -neutrality.</p> - -<p>Welfare work in Le Creusot is in a high state of efficiency. -Comfortable modern dwellings are furnished the employees at low -rental. Hospital facilities are of the best and everything is done -to bring the workman in close and harmonious relations with his -employer.</p> - -<p>It has been suggested that I embody in this report something with -reference to the mines in France, but as the data concerning them -has been printed in public documents of the French Minister of -Mines, I will omit this detail with the single word that these -reports include minerals of all kinds.</p> - -<p>I am indebted to John Weare, representative of the United States -Steel Products Company in France, for valuable information in the -preparation of this brief report.</p> - -<p class="r">JOSEPH G. BUTLER, Jr.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p>In the early part of December I was requested by the Financial editor of -the New York Times to give my views on the present outlook and more -particularly with reference to the condition of the American Iron and -Steel industry, brought about by the war. This letter to Mr. Phillips is -copied.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p class="r">December 20th, 1916.</p> - -<p>Mr. Osmund Phillips, New York, N. Y.</p> - -<p>My dear Mr. Phillips:—</p> - -<p>I have before me your circular letter of the 8th instant and your -kind favor of recent date.</p> - -<p>In reply to your question—What is the outlook for business in the -early months of 1917?</p> - -<p>The outlook is good. Our mills and plants for several months could -not nil the domestic orders even if the war orders were entirely -withdrawn. I am told that all the recent orders placed are firm and -are to be filled regardless of the ending of the war.</p> - -<p>Will the end of the European war mark the end of the present period -of prosperity?</p> - -<p>This is a broad and doubtful question. I do not think the end of -the war will end the present period of prosperity. There will be a -temporary halt. I might add in this connection, that in my judgment -the last overture from the Kaiser may result in the cessation of -the war, but I believe this period to be quite a distance off. -There are three parties in Germany. First, the Kaiser and the -Prussian Military circle, who have been in charge and have carried -their own way up to very nearly the present time. Second, there are -the people of Germany who are the common people, the good -substantial people, the majority of whom have been kept in -ignorance of the real beginning of the war and the cause for its -continuing. These people are commencing to get information and as -time goes on will be in full possession of the facts. Third, the -business men of Germany. There are no better nor more substantial -business men any place in the world than those in Germany; these -men are really responsible for the building up of Germany and it is -my opinion that these people are now responsible for the pressure -that is undoubtedly being brought on the Kaiser and the military -party for the settlement of the war. I believe that this pressure -will continue until a settlement is made. These business men -recognize that the longer the settlement is put off the harder it -will be for Germany.</p> - -<p>In your opinion, what proportion of the country's total trade, both -foreign and domestic, during the past year, was due to the war?</p> - -<p>I think about one-half of the trade of the country is due greatly, -directly and indirectly to the war.</p> - -<p>Do you think that labor demands have exceeded labor's fair share of -the increase in profits?</p> - -<p>I do not think labor demands have exceeded labor's fair share. The -high cost of living fully offsets the greater wages paid.</p> - -<p>Do you think present wage rates can be maintained?</p> - -<p>I do not think that present wages can be maintained indefinitely. -There will undoubtedly be a reaction with a certain reduction in -the cost of living and labor will have to share in the reduction.</p> - -<p>What do you think of the important legislation passed in 1916 -affecting business, including the eight hour day, increase in -income tax, the shipping bill, retaliation against foreign trade -interference, etc.?</p> - -<p>The eight hour a day law was an abnormal affair undoubtedly forced -through for political purposes, and never should have been passed -and should be promptly repealed.</p> - -<p>The increase in the income tax is all right.</p> - -<p>The shipping bill will be valuable if the right kind of men are -put on the Commission. Some of these under consideration are wholly -incapable.</p> - -<p>I believe this answers all your questions.</p> - -<p>Very truly yours,</p> - -<p class="r">J. G. BUTLER, Jr.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p>When the special report I had prepared and published reached France I -was favored with a number of letters from prominent people in that -country, containing comments on the same. There were probably one -hundred of these letters, from among which I have selected the following -as of sufficient interest, either because of their comments or the -prominence of the writers, to make them worthy of reproduction here:</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p class="r">French Republic.</p> -<p> -Mr. J. G. Butler, Jr., -Youngstown, O.</p> - -<p>Dear Sir:—</p> - -<p>I thank you for the interesting data which you kindly sent me on -the development of the French Steel Industry during the war.</p> - -<p>My compatriots cannot be otherwise than sensible of the praise -which you have given them.</p> - -<p>They will find in your report an authorized opinion of the efforts -which they have made to make secure the National defense.</p> - -<p class="r">Yours very truly,<br /> -A. MIRMAN,<br /> -Minister of Commerce and Industry.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p class="center">Consulate-General of the United States of America.<br /> -1, Rue Des Italians<br /> -(28, Boulevard Des Italiens)</p> - -<p class="r">Paris, December 6, 1916. -Joseph G. Butler, Jr., Esquire, -Youngstown, Ohio, -United States of America. -My dear Mr. Butler:—</p> - -<p>I am in receipt of your good favor of November 9, 1916, enclosing a -reprint of your report on the French Steel Industry, for which you -have my best thanks. I have read it with a great deal of interest -and must congratulate you upon getting a great many solid facts -into a very small compass. In my opinion you have covered the -situation very intelligently and the information you give ought to -be of great value to our manufacturers in the United States.</p> - -<p>I cannot tell you how glad I was to see you over here and I only -wish that more of our people would come abroad to study conditions -at first hand.</p> - -<p>I have also received a letter from your friend, Mr. Warren, and -from Mr. Douglass saying all sorts of nice things about me which, I -hope, were merited.</p> - -<p>Very sincerely yours,</p> -<p class="r">A. M. THACKARA.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p class="center">Republican Committee of Commerce,<br /> -Industry and Agriculture.</p> -<p class="r">Paris, November 30th, 1916.</p> - -<p>Mr. J. G. Butler, Jr., -Member of the Industrial Commission of France. -Youngstown, Ohio.</p> - -<p>Dear Sir:—</p> - -<p>I acknowledge receipt of the interesting report that you have made -on your return from France, and I trust that this voyage will have -allowed you to learn to appreciate our fine country, and that the -results of your visit will be good and fruitful for the exchange of -our products with North America.</p> - -<p>You need not thank us for the reception that we have given to the -American delegation in France. It was our duty to receive heartily -our American friends; it was for us a cherished duty to tighten -again the bonds of cordiality which exist between the two -countries.</p> - -<p>Personally I myself have been very glad to be introduced to you.</p> - -<p>Yours Very truly,</p> -<p class="r">MONCURAND,<br /> -Senateur de la Seine.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p class="r">Meurthe & Moselle,<br /> -Office of the Prefect.<br /> -Nancy, France, November 28th, 1916.</p> - -<p>Dear Sir:—</p> - -<p>I have read with the greatest interest the interview which you gave -upon your landing in America to the American newspapers.</p> - -<p>I feel very much impressed by your own remembrance and I myself -feel honored, as a French citizen, by your sympathy for my country.</p> - -<p>The poor city of Nancy has suffered since your visit. We buried -yesterday, the victims of the Friday bombardment. Big shells have -been thrown on the city. One fell right in the center, in this -vicinity, in a populous street, many women and children have been -killed, a mother and her two little girls—what a dreary sight is -war, the way of the war inaugurated by the Germans, for it is the -shame of all humanity. We have inhumed our poor victims, washed the -blood that reddened pavements, put in order the rubbish of the -houses and have come back again to our daily work.</p> - -<p>Yours very truly,</p> -<p class="r">MIRMAN, Prefect.</p> - -<p>To J. G. Butler, Jr.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p class="r">Lyon, Le 28 November 1916.</p> - -<p>Consulat Imperial de Russie a Lyon</p> - -<p>Mr. Joseph G. Butler, Jr. -Youngstown, Ohio. -United States.</p> - -<p>Dear Sir:—</p> - -<p>I am pleased to acknowledge receipt of your favour of the 9 -November, and of the copy of your report respecting the French -Steel Industry. I thank you for same.</p> - -<p>I have read your report with high interest, on various questions -referred to, and particularly the Comite des Forges de France, and -the works of Messrs. Schneider & Co. at Le Creusot.</p> - -<p>I should be happy if a further good opportunity could afford me the -pleasure of meeting you again, and I remain, dear sir,</p> - -<p>Very truly yours,</p> -<p class="r">C. CALOR.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p>Chambre<br /> -Des Deputes<br /> -Commission du Budget.</p> - -<p class="r">Paris, le November 30th, 1916.</p> - -<p>Mr. Joseph G. Butler, Jr. -Youngstown, Ohio, U. S. A.</p> - -<p>My dear Mr. Butler:—</p> - -<p>I duly received your favor of Oct. 31st, and of Nov. 10th, and -also the documents which you kindly sent me. I have read them with -greatest interest.</p> - -<p>Of course, I have at once communicated your report in French to the -Chambers of Commerce and I was pleased to place such a useful and -well established document at their disposal.</p> - -<p>I trust to hear from you soon, and with very kind regards.</p> - -<p>I beg to remain,<br /> -Cordially yours,</p> -<p class="r">MAURICE DAMOUR.<br /> -Depute de Lands.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p class="r">Bordeaux the 29th November, 1916.</p> - -<p>Dear Mr. Butler:—</p> - -<p>I beg to tender you my very best thanks for the copy of your report -on French Steel Industry in war time you so kindly sent me.</p> - -<p>I learned a lot by reading it, and it is comforting to know that on -the other side of the Atlantic, we have friends not sparing their -time and their energy, for helping us through the tremendous -struggle we are fighting.</p> - -<p>Your flag is made of the same colors as our flag, both are the same -symbol of human rights and Liberty.</p> - -<p>Yours very truly,</p> -<p class="r">D. G. MESTREZAT.</p> - -<p>Joseph G. Butler, Jr., Esq.,<br /> -Member of the American Commission to France,<br /> -Youngstown, Ohio, U. S. A.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p class="r">11 Ironmonger Lane<br />London 31st January, 1917.</p> - -<p>J. G. Butler, Jr., Esq.,<br /> -Youngstown, O.</p> - -<p>My dear Mr. Butler:—</p> - -<p>I have received your lines of the 29th ultimo, and your most -charming verses which accompanied them; also your report on the -French Steel Industry, which I read with very much interest.</p> - -<p>The people on your side do things in a very thorough manner. For -instance, I do not think that we have sent a deputation to consider -the state of trade in France, but numerous committees, dealing with -various important trades of the country, are conferring in regard -to "trade after the war conditions"—I hope with advantage.</p> - -<p>I trust that out of all the trials of war time there will emerge a -period when the angel of co-operation with healing in his wings -will again have a chance of being heard.</p> - -<p>My wife sends you her kindest regards, as I do also. I have most -pleasant memories of my visits to the United States and of the -hospitalities which you and your hospitable brethren invariably -extended to me.</p> - -<p>Believe me, Yours sincerely,</p> - -<p class="r">WM. R. PEAT.<br /> -Lyon, Nov. 23rd, 1916.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p>Ministere de la Guerre -Inspections Generales -5e Arrondissement -Lyon</p> - -<p>9, Rue President Carnot</p> - -<p>My dear Sir:—</p> - -<p>I beg to thank you sincerely for that reprint of your report on the -French Steel Industry, which I have read through with great -pleasure and most interest.</p> - -<p>Besides, I am glad to take such an opportunity to remember the time -we spent together so agreeably in Lyons, and remain, dear sir,</p> - -<p>Yours very truly,</p> -<p class="r">A. D'AMAND.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p class="r">Paris, Dec. 27th, 1916.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p>Mr. J. G. Butler,<br /> -Youngstown, O., U. S. A.</p> - -<p>Dear Sir:—</p> - -<p>I have the honor to acknowledge receipt of your letters of November -6th and 9th, in which you send to me the text of the report of your -trip in France and an interview that you have granted to a -representative of a newspaper before landing.</p> - -<p>I thank you very kindly for this information and I wish to testify -to the pleasure afforded me by the good impression which you -brought back of your trip. I beg you to be so kind as to excuse me -for delaying so long in answering your letter—a delay caused by -the work that we give to the intensive effort toward the production -of war material.</p> - -<p>As you have made the request of me, I shall tell you very frankly -the few observations which have been suggested to my by the reading -of your report.</p> - -<p>First of all you have noted the lack of any safety apparatus in the -factories and the lack of placards by means of which, in the United -States, the attention of the laborer is called to the probable -dangers of his profession. The last part of the observation is -particularly well founded, but you must not forget that working -conditions in France are quite different from those existing in the -United States. In our country, the metal workers are taught more -slowly; as a rule they start their apprenticeship earlier and their -professional education wards them against the dangers of the plant. -As to the safety apparatus, perhaps they have been neglected in -some workshops erected during the war, but they are required by law -and always installed in times of peace.</p> - -<p>I can tell you that as far as the Schneider's establishments are -concerned, special safety regulations were established twenty years -ago, with such care that they are actually in use almost without -modifications up to the present time.</p> - -<p>I have had looked up, some records on the fatal accidents in the -French and in the American metallurgical factories. I notice that, -according to the report of conditions of employment in the Iron and -Steel Industry in the United States, the percentage of fatal -accidents in America was 1.86 for 1000 laborers in 1909 and 1910, -while in France it was only 0.6 for 1000 laborers.</p> - -<p>The comparison of these figures will show you the accuracy of what -I have just indicated to you. As to wages it is certain that the -French wages have nothing in common with the American prices, but -the cost of living is much less.</p> - -<p>One cannot therefore compare the figures according to the report -which gives the exchange between the monetary units of the two -countries.</p> - -<p>Finally, in the chapter "Collaboration between the Manufacturers" -it is shown that the production of which the French industry has -been deprived, consisted entirely of Thomas, or Basic (Bessemer) -Steel and acid Open Hearth Steel.</p> - -<p>In reality the East and North departments of France, which have -been invaded, were producing chiefly Basic Bessemer pig iron and -steel. Open Hearth, Acid and Basic steel figured only as a -relatively small tonnage.</p> - -<p>As you take an interest in the social question, I thought I was -doing right in having addressed to you, by the same mail, a copy of -our pamphlet on social economy.</p> - -<p>I trust that the materials which you will find in it will allow you -to complete the data that you have been able to gather in the -course of your trip.</p> - -<p>Yours very truly,</p> -<p class="r">SCHNEIDER & CO.<br /> -H. COQUEUGNOT</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p class="r">Paris, December 2nd, 1916.</p> - -<p>Mr. J. G. Butler, Jr.,<br /> -Youngstown, O.</p> - -<p>Dear Sir:—</p> - -<p>I have had the honor to receive your letter of November 9th and was -very much pleased to note your very interesting report on the -French Steel Industry.</p> - -<p>I thank you for sending this document which I immediately -communicated to our several metallurgical departments concerned.</p> - -<p>I thank you, too, for the kind mention you make of our relations -during your stay in France and beg you to believe dear sir, in the -assurance of my best regards.</p> - -<p>Yours very truly,</p> -<p class="r">SCHNEIDER & COMPANY.<br /> -MAURICE DEVIES.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p class="r">Arles-sur-Rhone, Dec. 10th, 1916.</p> - -<p>Mr. J. G. Butler, Jr.,<br /> -Youngstown, Ohio.</p> - -<p>Dear Sir:—</p> - -<p>I have received with your favor of the 19th of last November, the -copy of the report which you drew up following your trip to France -about the steel business in France during the war.</p> - -<p>I have had it translated, for, as I very much regret to be obliged -to tell you, I do not know the English language, which deprived me -of the extreme pleasure of conversing directly with you and obliged -me to remain your silent neighbor, when I had the privilege of -being near you.</p> - -<p>The reading of your report has interested me very keenly and -informed us in France of many things about France.</p> - -<p>You have been so kind as to add a very elegant piece of poetry -about our two flags comprising the same colors that the sun blends -in its radiant light, but which none the less preserve their -symbolical import. May they continue to float thus together as -formerly for the glory of our two nations, which are actuated by a -common impulse, though differing in expression.</p> - -<p>I trust your visit to France at this unfortunate time through which -we are living, will have a happy effect upon the continuance of the -good relations between our two countries.</p> - -<p>Thanking you deeply for your considerate attention, I beg to extend -to you and the other members of your Commission the expression of -my sincere regards, believe me, sir,</p> - -<p>Yours very truly,</p> -<p class="r">A. VERAN,<br /> -Architecte des Monuments Historiques.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p>French Embassy.</p> -<p class="r">Washington, D. C., Feb. 21, 1917.</p> - -<p>I offer you, my dear Colonel, my best thanks for the most -interesting account you kindly sent me of your experience in France -and of the sentiments inspired to you by your stay among my -compatriots.</p> - -<p>Sincerely yours,</p> -<p class="r">JUSSERAND.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p>Louis Nicolle<br /> -17, Avenue Bosquet<br /> -Paris</p> - -<p class="r">December, 1916.</p> - -<p>My dear Sir:—</p> - -<p>I am much obliged to you for the reprint of your report you kindly -sent me.</p> - -<p>I have read through it with the greatest interest, and although I -am a textile manufacturer, I found some very interesting -suggestions in it, and at the same time compliments to my country -of which I am very proud.</p> - -<p>I hope some further opportunity may bring us into contact again and -in the meantime, I remain,</p> - -<p>Yours very sincerely,</p> -<p class="r">LOUIS NICOLLE.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p class="r">Reims, December 15th, 1916.</p> - -<p>Dear Mr. Butler:—</p> - -<p>I thank you for your very interesting communication on the Steel -Industry in France and on its future. I am quite of the same -opinion with you and I congratulate you for what you have brought -to us.</p> - -<p>I cherish the best remembrance of the visit to Reims of the -American Commission and I hope to have the pleasure of meeting you -again.</p> - -<p>I forwarded your kind regards to Mr. Representative Damour, who -begged me to send you his regards.</p> - -<p>Ever at your service for all that could be service to you, I beg -you to accept, dear Mr. Butler, the expression of my sympathy and -of my most devoted friendship.</p> - -<p class="r">JACQUES REGNIER,<br /> -Sub-prefect, Reims.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p>Paris, Dec. 23rd, 1916.</p> - -<p>Mr. J. G. Butler, Jr.,<br /> -Youngstown, O.</p> - -<p>Dear Sir:—</p> - -<p>I duly received your letter of November 9th, in which you were so -kind as to enclose a copy of the report on the French Steel -Industry which you made out following the trip which the American -Commission has made recently in France.</p> - -<p>After reading carefully this report which interested me very -keenly, I can tell you that it represents precisely the actual -situation of our Steel Industry.</p> - -<p>With my best thanks, I remain, -Yours very truly,</p> -<p class="r">J. MAURICE.</p> - - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="XX" id="XX"></a><a href="#toc">XX.</a></h2> - -<h3>WHERE WAR HAS RAGED</h3> - - -<p class="n"><span class="figleft"><img src="images/024.png" alt="I" /></span>N spite of the tremendous nature of the present war and its duration -for more than two years at the time of our visit, comparatively little -of France had been visited with the indescribable destruction marking -the struggle. No war in history has been so intense, and few wars have -been so long confined to such small areas as that on the western front.</p> - -<p>It was about the first of October that we reached Belfort, and here we -saw the first signs of havoc wrought by gunfire. At Paris we had been -within twenty miles of the battlefield where the German hosts were first -turned back, but there was not much ruin wrought to buildings at the -Marne. Men, unprotected by trenches or any of the later found defensive -methods, bore the brunt of the cannon there.</p> - -<p>At Belfort we saw signs of bombardment, but they were not so shocking. -The shell fire had been at long range and was apparently brief and -inaccurate. This seemed to be the case at all of the towns between -Belfort and St. Die. Apparently the Germans had not used so many heavy -guns in this region, or perhaps they had not yet become so desperate and -ruthless as later on. At any rate, it was at St. Die where we first saw -a whole town ruined.</p> - -<p>The ruined portion of France extends in a narrow strip around the -frontier from the Alps to the North Sea. Very little of this section, -about three hundred and twenty-five miles in length and varying from ten -to fifty miles in breadth, escaped the fearful blast of war. Few towns -located in it can ever be restored to their original condition.</p> - -<p>After the great German army had crushed Liege and captured Antwerp, one -section came up the valley of the Meuse and the other up the valley of -the Schelde, uniting at a point between Namur and Mons. At the latter -place Sir John French had gathered his hastily formed army of one -hundred and twenty-five thousand men, and with this made a gallant -defense. The British were soon forced back with tremendous losses, but -they delayed the Germans until the French army, hastily mobilized on the -German frontier east of Paris, could be reformed on the Marne. The great -German machine drove rapidly down the valleys over the wide and splendid -roads, forcing the English backward toward the sea and spreading out to -meet the French front so hastily interposed between it and Paris. In -this way the German line became extremely long before the Battle of the -Marne began. The Kaiser's army had spread itself out like a fan. I was -shown maps illustrating this mightiest of all military movements, and -it was made plain how the English, hanging on the German flank, had -placed the invaders in such a position that a skillful attack at the -right time and in the right place forced them to fall back and -strengthen their lines.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Ruins of Village—St. Die.]</p> - -<p>It was while they were attempting to do this that the French attacked -them with all the fierceness of patriots defending their most beloved -city. Then what the German commander, Von Kluck, had meant to be only a -halt to reform his lines became a retreat that ended only when the -Teutons had gained the hills beyond the Aisne. In their retreat they -destroyed, or the French were forced to destroy, most of the towns in a -section fifty miles wide and two hundred miles long—the fairest part of -France—Artois and Champagne.</p> - -<p>The surge of battle—such a battle as the world never saw before—swept -over all these towns, but it was strange to see how much more some of -them suffered than others. At Belfort, the town famous for withstanding -sieges, comparatively little harm was done. Rambevillers, in the path of -the stream of destruction, was almost unharmed. Gerbeviller, on the -other hand, was entirely destroyed, probably out of revenge for the -stubborn opposition of its defenders. St. Die was badly wrecked, as were -Raon l'Etape and Baccarat.</p> - -<p>It was the same all along the front. We saw some towns absolutely -ruined, others very badly damaged, and still others in which the shells -seem to have fallen in places where they did little harm, or where, -perhaps, there was not time for the complete shelling that had made -heaps of brick and stone of other thriving towns.</p> - -<p>The smaller towns appeared to have suffered worse than the large cities. -Nancy was badly battered, but not entirely destroyed. Reims, which was -under the fire of German guns for many months, and where the wonderful -cathedral was destroyed, apparently with malice, had lost about -one-fourth of its buildings by fire and explosions resulting from the -bombardment.</p> - -<p>In the country, the territory once occupied by the Germans and now in -possession of the French is seamed with trenches and pitted with shell -craters in all directions. To all appearances about every foot of it has -seen the tread of either French soldiers or their foes. Back from the -lines a short distance in some cases, the fields had become green again, -and the trees were trying to send forth new growth from then-burned and -battered trunks; but it will be a long time before this part of France -loses all of its scars. The filling of the trenches and leveling of the -fields will be no mean task of itself. Few farm houses, which in France -are built in groups of half a dozen or so, are to be seen. Stone heaps -fill their places.</p> - -<p>The roads over which we passed were in good condition, having been kept -in repair. We were told, however, that many of the finest roads near -the front had been badly torn up and that it would require much work to -restore them. Hundreds of bridges have been destroyed, and most of the -rivers and canals, of which there are many, are now crossed by temporary -structures.</p> - -<p>We were given a glimpse of the complicated system of railroads, built in -large part since the war and to supply the armies with food and other -necessaries. These roads were all laid hurriedly, but they seem to be in -good condition and are invaluable to the French. Some of them have been -laid with rails taken up in other places where they were not so badly -needed. In this system of railroads and roads one gets a striking -illustration of the huge task it is to feed an army.</p> - -<p>The Commission was given figures showing the total number of buildings -destroyed in France, with an estimate of their value. These figures had -been compiled in July, 1916, and were reasonably accurate at the time we -were there, since the Germans had yielded little ground in the interim -and there had been less wanton destruction than in the first months of -the war. According to this official report, more than half the houses -had been destroyed, either by flames or gunfire, in one hundred and -forty-eight towns. In the greater portion of these towns nearly all of -the houses had been ruined. Besides this there were scores of towns -suffering from gunfire which did not lose so large a part of their -buildings. Among the buildings destroyed were two hundred and -twenty-five city halls, three hundred and seventy-nine schools, three -hundred and thirty-one churches, and more than three hundred other -public buildings of various kinds and sizes. The mills and factories, -like all of the larger buildings, suffered severely, more than three -hundred having been totally destroyed.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: The Prefecture at Reims after Bombardment.]</p> - -<p>Most of the towns suffering were of the smaller class, although four -cities of more than one hundred thousand people were bombarded or burned -by the Germans. These are Lille, Roubaix, Nancy and Reims. The section -swept by the German advance and suffering even worse in the retreat is -the most populous in France. It covered about ten thousand square miles. -No one has yet undertaken to figure the loss in property sustained in -this region. The Germans have still possession of about five million -acres of French soil, including seventy per cent, of the iron ore mines -and a large part of the coal supply.</p> - -<p>The farmers are already back at work on a great part of the territory -ravaged by the war. Farming under such conditions as we saw, where men -and women worked in the fields within range of the guns and amid their -constant roaring, or with the eternal white crosses for company, may be -more exciting than the usual occupation of the agriculturist, but it -must be a sad, discouraging and difficult task.</p> - - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="XXI" id="XXI"></a><a href="#toc">XXI.</a></h2> - -<h3>GENERAL JOFFRE</h3> - -<p class="n"><span class="figleft"><img src="images/025.png" alt="P" /></span>ERHAPS no other man in France is so talked of so much as General -Joffre. Certainly he is the idol of the French people. They look on him -as their hero and savior, and his name is mentioned among them with a -sort of half-worship. No other people have ever depended on their -leaders as have the French. They believe with the right sort of -leadership they can do anything. This is the impression you get in -talking to them. They say that since the Franco-Prussian War they have -looked forward to the time when they might have a general with -Napoleon's genius and some other name—for even the name Napoleon now -prevents a man from fighting for France, at least if he is of the royal -line.</p> - -<p>You may be certain that we all looked forward to meeting this great man. -We did not meet him after all at close range, having to content -ourselves with a view of the busiest man in France as he rode by in an -automobile at top speed.</p> - -<p>General Joffre, as we learned, has been at the head of the French Army -for two years before the war. He first came into notice when, at the -last grand maneuvers, he jarred military circles and greatly pleased the -people by unceremoniously dismissing from their command five gold-laced -generals whose methods did not meet with his approval.</p> - -<p>But Joffre first showed what sort of stuff was in him when he met the -Germans at the Marne. It will be recalled that the French, never -suspecting that Germany would invade Belgium and having all their -military plans laid for mobilizing on the German frontier, were more or -less demoralized when they found an entirely new line of defense -necessary. They had no railroads built to help reform their line, and -the moving of a vast army is a perplexing task. Without a leader in whom -the whole army had supreme confidence, and with the German host sweeping -across Belgium and hurling back the English, it would have been a -hopeless situation.</p> - -<p>But while what the Kaiser called "Sir John French's contemptible little -army" was holding back for a few days the German onrush at terrific -cost, Joffre was busy realigning his forces between the invaders and his -beloved Paris, which seemed doomed to all but him. He had studied the -situation carefully and detected the fact that the long flank of Von -Kluck's army left an opening. This opening was found by the Army of -Paris, augmented in every possible way and finally reinforced by every -available soldier, rushed from Paris in every kind of automobile to be -found. The Germans were stopped at the Marne—twenty miles from -Paris. Not only was the capital of France saved, but the invaders were -steadily driven back until they were sixty miles away before they could -make a successful stand.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Portrait in Tapestry—General Joffre.]</p> - -<p>It was then that France found Joffre, so the people say. Up to that time -they had heard little of him and nobody knew who he was or where he had -come from. At once they began to inquire. Few of the soldiers had ever -seen him, and there had been nothing much in the newspapers about the -man who had managed all this.</p> - -<p>After the Germans had been forced across the Aisne and there was time to -breathe, the French decided to have a review of that part of the army -that could be spared. It was here that everybody watched for Joffre. The -French tell it in their own way and it is interesting to hear one of -them explaining, with the usual gestures, just how the hero looked on -the day of that review.</p> - -<p>It was not much of a display of military style. The troops reviewed had -been in the thick of the fight and there was an enormous amount of mud. -There was no reviewing stand except a muddy elevation, on which the -commander was to stand. Nobody seemed to know where he was or where he -would come from, but it was passed around that he was to be there and -the soldiers watched for him eagerly. Most of them thought that he was -a little, fat man. They had unconsciously absorbed this idea from -pictures of Napoleon, and, forgetting the terrible stress of the past -weeks in the temporary flush of victory, they expected to see their -general come to the stand with a blaze of glory. They looked for silken -flags and gaudy uniforms and a regular French military parade. This was -as little as they thought would do proper honor to the victorious -commander of the Allied armies, and they were right, because General -Joffre is at the head of the greatest force of men ever gathered -together.</p> - -<p>As you are told about this in France, the day came and at the spot -selected for the review, an open field somewhat back of the lines, with -plenty of freshly planted crosses in sight and evidence all around that -the peace and quiet had not always been there, a few generals and -officers gathered. Finally, a regimental band, playing the first martial -music heard since before the battle of the Marne, swung out of the woods -at the head of a body of troops.</p> - -<p>Then a large man, tall and heavy and wearing an ordinary soldier's -overcoat, but with the laurel band around his hat that showed him to be -a general, came out of the woods behind the little knoll and walked -rapidly toward the group of officers. Every hand went up in salute. Then -they knew it was Joffre. He went to the muddy knoll, and stood there -watching keenly while the soldiers marched past, the bugles blowing and -the bands playing.</p> - -<p>In spite of their muddy uniforms and the hard fight they had just gone -through, the French say that these soldiers looked spic and span as they -passed their general. Their rifles went up in salute as straight and -accurately as if they had just come from quarters and were marching over -a level parade ground, instead of over fields filled with shell holes -and slippery with mud—or perhaps something worse.</p> - -<p>Joffre is a silent man, they say. This does not interfere in the least -with the adoration of the French, who are usually great talkers. They -believe in him to the utmost, and they will follow him to the limit of -endurance. So long as Joffre is at the head of the French army, the -spirit of victory will remain.</p> - -<p>Since Joffre has become famous, of course much is known about him. He -was born in the Midi, as they call the southern part of France. Trained -as a soldier, he saw service in the East, where he did that which he set -out to do. There is no particular incident that points to the discovery -of his genius, although he must have done unusual things to get to the -top. He is known to have been a modest, quiet, home-loving sort of man, -spending much time with his family at Auteil, and showing while there -that he was very fond of fishing. Fishing is a good recreation for the -man who wants to think, and the French believe that while Joffre was -doing that he must have been evolving plans for settling with the hated -Germans. He likes to fish yet, and when he can get away from the war -zone, he hunts a small stream and spends his leisure hours along it.</p> - -<p>During his brilliant career since the war began Joffre has developed -some of the qualities notable in our own General Grant. There is not a -particle of show or bluster about him. He dresses as plainly as -possible, talks little and seems to prefer solitude. But his will is -imperious and he does not hesitate when anything is to be done, whether -it is pleasant or otherwise. For his men he has the greatest -consideration, but they say in France that, like Lincoln, he has little -regard for Generals. Some of the things told about him remind you of the -story of Lincoln. In this story a Confederate raid had resulted in the -capture of two generals and a number of privates. When the story was -brought to Lincoln, he said it was too bad about the men. Someone -suggested that it was a pity the generals had been taken, but Lincoln -said that did not matter much, as he could make some more. Joffre has -made it uncomfortable for the inefficient generals in France. Many of -them have lost their commands and most of them live in fear of his quiet -but inexorable discipline.</p> - -<p>Joffre does not look kindly on visitors to the Front, and nobody gets -there without his permission. He signed the passes on which the -Commission traveled, but he did not seem overjoyed at our coming enough -to look us up while we were there. Apparently he regarded us as people -who could not help in his big job and who were likely in some way or -other to become nuisances.</p> - -<p>When you talk with people who know this man you are at once impressed -with the fact that he appreciates his great responsibility and that -there is nothing on his mind but how to win this war for France. They -say he has a clipping bureau that saves for him all that is being -printed about the war. He probably expects to read it somewhere after -the war is over, but he will not likely be able to do this in the -remainder of an ordinary lifetime.</p> - -<p>Time only will decide whether Joffre is really a great military genius, -or whether he is merely a good general, conscientiously doing his best -and fortunate enough to become a popular hero. Modern war is so -different from old time variety that no one can judge results up to this -time. It is at least certain that Joffre has beaten the Germans back and -back, slowly, but surely forcing them out of France. He says himself -that he "has been nibbling at them."</p> - -<p>There can be no doubt that at the time this is written he has reached -the pinnacle of fame in France. He is the man in all France who is most -talked about, most admired and most trusted. Were he to die now, as -Kitchener died, his place in History would be secure. What will happen -before the war is over is another matter. But, having heard the French -talk about "Father Joffre" so much and so lovingly, and having been -given the most useful thing in France, if you want to see the front—a -pass by him in spite of the great cares resting on his shoulders, I hope -that fate will be kind to him and that he will remain the idol of his -people to the end.</p> - -<p>As might be expected, France is full of the sayings of Joffre. Everyone -you meet can tell you a new one. Some of the aphorisms credited to him -that I can now recall are: "Go where the enemy is not expecting you"; -"No soldier is expected to think of retreating"; "Now is the time to -stand and die rather than yield". This last is said to have been his -utterance before the beginning of the Battle of the Marne.</p> - - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="XXII" id="XXII"></a><a href="#toc">XXII.</a></h2> - -<h3>THE WORK OF RECONSTRUCTION</h3> - - -<p class="n"><span class="figleft"><img src="images/026.png" alt="W" /></span>HILE no estimate can be made of the cost of rebuilding the towns and -cities destroyed in France until after the war is over and it is known -what further damage has been done, this matter is already receiving -earnest consideration. The French are confident of victory and are -satisfied that they will soon be able to rebuild their cities and -reorganize their industries. They are a frugal and thrifty people, and -usually have more private means than the average American whose manner -of living would indicate that he is wealthy. On this account it is my -impression that France will recover very rapidly after the war and will -soon be as well off in property as before it began.</p> - -<p>The chief loss of the French is likely to be their young manhood. Houses -can be rebuilt. Factories will spring up over night where there is -capital and faith to invest it. Even the fine old cathedrals may be -restored or replaced with something that will serve equally well in a -practical sense. But the young men—the flower of the French -nation—whose lives have been offered on the altar of national -defense—these cannot be replaced. Generations must pass before the -terrific price of national existence will be fully paid in this -direction.</p> - -<p>Most Frenchmen feel this way about the situation. From a material -standpoint they expect to soon be as well off as ever. They do not seem -to mind the loss in wealth destroyed by the great war. But they are -bowed down with grief at the thought of the young men who have been -slain and the years that will be required to replace them. Although they -do not care to discuss this phase of the situation, the French have -already begun nobly to meet the problem of the lame, halt and blind who -are a part of the legacy of every war and an exceedingly prominent part -of that left by this one.</p> - -<p>It is surprising to learn that the Belgians, whose little country has -been crushed under the heel of the invader so that its government -retains only a narrow corner behind the British army, are even more -optimistic than the French. They are determined that the Germans must be -driven out and are already laying elaborate plans for reconstruction of -their farms and villages and cities. Almost before the Commission had -reached Paris we were asked by the Belgians to hold a meeting with their -chamber of commerce in that city in order to discuss the problems of -Belgium's rehabilitation.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Ruins at Nancy.]</p> - -<p>When this meeting did finally take place, on October 16th, we were all -impressed with the pathetic earnestness of the Belgians upon this -subject. Some of the most prominent citizens of Belgium took part in the -discussion. It was easy to see, even from the meagre translations we -were able to get on the moment, that the Belgians realize that they have -been martyrs and expect the world to render them substantial aid when -the time comes to restore their national entity and rebuild their war -torn country. In fact I was compelled to admit with reluctance that -their enthusiasm was greater than their business acumen, for they seemed -to have very little tangible information on which plans could be laid -for helping them.</p> - -<p>It was explained afterward that these Belgians have no means of securing -the information they need, as the Germans have almost absolute -possession of their country and are, as might be expected, not -furnishing any information as to the amount of destruction, or the -quantity of materials which can be used again, or in any other way. It -is stated that the Germans have practically looted the whole country, -carting off the machinery in most of the factories, and even forcing the -Belgians to work on military defenses to be used against them and their -allies. Under such conditions it was not to be expected that the Belgian -chamber of commerce would be in possession of definite information. The -impassioned belief of these gentlemen in the magnanimity and wealth of -America was inspiring, and I sincerely hope that when the time comes to -reconstruct this stricken land our people will have as large a part as -the Belgians expect and one much more generous than they have had in the -saving of the Belgians from starvation.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Trenches Occupied by French Soldiers]</p> - -<p>At this meeting I heard many kind things said about the Americans who -are working in Belgium and about how much this country has done to save -the people there from suffering. Great praise was also given to the -English, who have aided most nobly to prevent the absolute destruction -of the Belgian nation.</p> - - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="XXIII" id="XXIII"></a><a href="#toc">XXIII.</a></h2> - -<h3>FRENCH BUSINESS ORGANIZATIONS</h3> - - -<p class="n"><span class="figleft"><img src="images/027.png" alt="T" /></span>O the members of our Commission one of the most interesting things -found in France was the organization of chambers of commerce, or bodies -whose purpose is to promote the industrial and financial welfare of the -communities where they exist. Unlike the situation in America, where -chambers of commerce are purely local organizations, without power or -even much prestige in the regulation of municipal affairs, the French -have a system of such bodies that is probably the most important single -force to be reckoned with in the republic.</p> - -<p>We were entertained at almost every city where we made a stop by the -chamber of commerce, and were given every opportunity to ascertain how -these organizations work. We found their system admirable, and many -features of it should be copied in this country. Before this can be -done, however, we must have more liberal and sensible legislation on the -question of co-operation among productive organizations.</p> - -<p>The French chambers of commerce are officially recognized by the -government and given certain powers which, to a large extent, place -every community under their care, at least in so far as its business -interests and development of its resources go. No chamber can be -organized except by governmental decree, and this provision naturally -prevents them from interfering with the legitimate prerogatives of the -government, while giving them powers that enable them to be of real -service to the community.</p> - -<p>Everywhere we went we found that the chamber of commerce was regarded as -the guardian of the public interest, and we were told how these bodies -took action frequently with much success in matters that in this country -would be regarded as far beyond the scope of a chamber of commerce. They -have power to represent the towns where they exist in all matters -regarding industrial, agricultural and transportation problems. They are -under the direct control of the department of industry, and the charter -of each is signed by the minister of commerce then in office. Their -members are elected much as we elect regular city officials, and the -number cannot be less than nine or more than twenty-one, except in -Paris, where there are forty at this time. The number is fixed for each -chamber by government decree and depends on the population of the -district. The members must be thirty years of age and citizens in good -standing. Bankrupts are not allowed to serve. In every way these bodies -are made thoroughly representative of the best citizenship, and it is -regarded as quite an honor to be permitted to serve on them without -pay.</p> - -<p>These chambers usually meet twice each month and they keep in close -touch with each other, working out plans that will be for the good of -the whole country as well as for their special localities. Many of the -largest undertakings in France have been begun and carried out largely -by chambers of commerce. The new port at Marseilles, which will cost -about two hundred million francs, is an example. For this work the -chamber of commerce raised six million francs, the government provided a -like amount, and with this the chamber was able to finance the -improvement, depending on tolls and other revenues to pay the balance in -due time.</p> - -<p>The feature which appealed most strongly to me in these chambers of -commerce was the manner in which they are dovetailed with the government -in the performance of duties of a nature such as, in spite of their -tremendous importance, we Americans generally regard as nobody's -business in particular, and which are therefore usually left undone.</p> - -<p>A national organization of chambers of commerce is maintained in Paris. -Part of the expense of each chamber, as well as of this body, is paid by -the government. The secretaries of the local chambers have also an -organization, and all these seem to work in perfect harmony for the -general good. The secretaries are usually professionals, and special -courses of training may be had in France for this work.</p> - -<p>We found that nearly every chamber had its own building and that all -were handsomely housed, well financed and extremely effective. They have -become a most important part of the government, handling with success -many problems that are difficult for a government and which, at the same -time, require a certain amount of governmental authority if they are to -be disposed of in an efficient manner.</p> - -<p>In my opinion this country could copy the French system of chambers of -commerce with much profit. We are in advance of them in many things, -especially in the matter of industrial operations, but they are a -century in advance of us in the co-operation needed between the citizens -and the government for the highest development of community life and -progress.</p> - - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="XXIV" id="XXIV"></a><a href="#toc">XXIV.</a></h2> - -<h3>THE CARREL METHOD OF TREATING WOUNDS</h3> - - -<p class="n"><span class="figleft"><img src="images/028.png" alt="S" /></span>O much interest has been expressed in the new method of treating wounds -discovered by Dr. Carrel and bearing his name, and the subject being of -such great importance to the cause of humanity and the preservation of -human life, I have thought it worth while to give here the following -authoritative descriptions of this new and epochal discovery in the -science of medicine. It is now generally known as the Carrel-Dakin -treatment.</p> - -<p>Reference has been made to meeting Dr. Sherman in London. On discovering -that this physician had enjoyed considerable experience with the Carrel -treatment and was thoroughly familiar with it, I invited him to deliver -an address on this subject at my home town after his return from Europe. -He readily agreed to do this, speaking to an interested audience under -the auspices of the Mahoning County Medical Society on Dec. 19, 1916. A -newspaper account of this address is appended. This will, in a measure, -serve to show the importance of the Carrel treatment.</p> - -<p>Out of the horror and carnage that is raging across the seas some -inconceivable good must come. This is the opinion of all who have -been close to the din of battle, who have visited hospitals and -seen with their own eyes the human wrecks wrought by grape shot, -shrapnel and bursting shells. Dr. William O'Neill Sherman's visit -to this city Tuesday night, when he opened the eyes of the medical -profession here to new and greater things, is the first inkling of -one great good that is to come out of this war. To treat the -millions of wounded and maimed, medical genius has been taxed to -the limit. As in all great times, great minds have come to the -rescue and found a way. The old saying that where there is a will -there is a way, has been clearly proven.</p> - -<p>Particularly is this true in the medical world. Dr. Sherman came -here from Pittsburgh, the invited guest of the Mahoning County -Medical Society, at the suggestion of J. G. Butler, Jr., who wanted -him to tell the physicians of this city and county the many things -he had learned by close application and association with conditions -in European hospitals and trenches. Dr. Sherman was filled with an -enthusiasm that he made every man who attended the annual banquet -of the Mahoning Medical Society feel. Particularly was he anxious -to bring the local medical fraternity to a realization of the -methods and treatments developed by the horrible carnage raging now -in the European countries. He drove home his point without gloves -when he told physicians of Youngstown that medical men throughout -this country were given too much to criticising new methods rather -than investigating them.</p> - -<p>The Carrel method, he explained at length. It is simply a newly -discovered antiseptic solution, conceived by Dr. Alexis Carrel, -which sterilizes wounds and arrests infection and inflammation -before they have an opportunity to spread and result in blood -poisoning and death.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Proclamation Posted in Reims Just Before the French Fell -Back to the Marne. (See Chap. XXV.)]<br /> </p> - - -<div class="block"> -<p class="center">TRANSLATION</p> - -<p>REPUBLIC OF FRANCE, CITY OF REIMS</p> - -<p>TO THE INHABITANTS</p> - -<p>At the moment when the German army is at our gates, and will -probably enter the city, the municipal authorities request you to -preserve all your presence of mind, and all calmness necessary to -permit you to undergo this trial.</p> - -<p>There must not be any manifestations, any riotous gatherings, any -outcries to trouble the tranquility of the streets. Public Service, -Charity, Health, and street maintenance should continue to be safe. -You must co-operate with us. You must remain in the city to help -the unfortunate. We shall remain with you at our post to defend -your interests.</p> - -<p>It does not devolve upon you, the population of an unfortified -city, to alter events. It does devolve upon you not to aggravate -the consequences. To this end it is necessary to keep silence, -dignity and prudence.</p> - -<p>We rely upon you, you may rely upon us.</p> - -<p>Reims, September 3, 1914.</p><p class="r">DR. LANGLET, Mayor.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p>Mr. Butler said to visit European capitals is to witness a -revelation difficult to convey in mere words. Soldiers of every -nationality are treated by the expert and world famed in medicine. -Human wrecks, victims of shot and shell, are repaired and rebuilt. -It matters little whether a man is friend or foe, as long as a -spark of life is there, he is picked tenderly from the trench and -everything known to medical science done to bring about his -recovery.</p> - -<p>The mind is filled with horror and wonder of it all. New thoughts -bombard the mind as one looks on. A man is brought in. His face is -practically shot away. It seems that even should he recover he will -be so disfigured that life will not be worth the living. The Carrel -solution is applied. By plastic surgery and other means the -disfigured mass is shaped. In a few short weeks the man again -begins to resemble a human being and eventually is well, with -little more than a few indistinct scars. Not infrequently he -returns to the trenches. Some of the things that shock the mind are -metal jaws, screened behind false beards, artificial noses, ears, -cheeks, eyes and limbs. Sometimes when a man is facially disfigured -beyond repair, that is, when nature can never replace the -countenance, a copper mask is fitted. These sculptors in -flesh-and-blood do their work with such precision and accuracy that -it is startling and cannot be believed unless it is seen.</p> - -<p>The war has seen the springing up of many hospitals of special -character. There are groups of institutions where only faces are -treated, eyes, ears and nose, maimed limbs, etc. Medical attention -in most cases begins in the trenches and the patient is carefully -watched while being transported to the hospital. By sterilizing -wounds shortly after they occur, infection and pus are robbed of -their chance to hinder nature and the patient recovers in a few -weeks from a frightful wound that if infected would take that many -months. There are many things of today that help in the -preservation of human life. The highly developed X-ray has played -an important part in this great war. Electricity, new antiseptics -and anaesthetics have been at the finger's end of the skilled -medical profession, to work what can honestly be called miracles -and wonders.</p> - -<p>One of the strange things of this great war is the fact that new, -unheard of diseases are developed. It has tended to make common -rare diseases and greatly increased those that are usual. Thousands -die, having no mark upon their body. Post-mortems held have -disclosed in nearly every case that such deaths were caused by -shell shock. Bombs from the huge guns dropping near a company of -men will often so disarrange organs that death follows quickly. -Many who survive lose mind, sight, hearing, speech, and so on. This -has become one of the common things of this great war. As a result -the warring countries will find themselves confronted with a new -and difficult problem when peace comes and normal times are again -established. There will be hundreds of thousands to pension and no -doubt insane institutions will have to be enlarged. Rest is often a -saviour. Men taken away from the fronts, minds blank, in the quiet -of home often regain their reason. There is the large percentage -that God in his goodness does not see fit to restore that will form -an elephantine problem. There will have to be vast pension lists, -for these men often have large families.</p> - -<p>The way men may be pieced and patched together is one of the finds -of the new medical era. It has been discovered that bones in legs -and arms practically shot in two can be brought together by means -of silver and vanadium steel plates fitted with screws and that the -bones will knit and after a period the afflicted can walk almost as -satisfactorily as if nothing had happened. Dr. Sherman while in -this city this week displayed a steel plate that he worked out and -used with marked success in the hospitals of France. These plates -are applied in what would seem to be a very simple manner. A man -may have a leg or an arm practically shot off. By placing the -broken bones together, after a treatment with the Carrel solution -to keep down infection, a plate is fitted on either side of the -fracture and screws are applied. This holds the two members solidly -together and in a few short weeks the bones knit. In time this -place is practically the strongest part of the limb. What this -means can best be told by explaining that before the discovery, an -arm or a leg so badly shattered was simply amputated because this -was the only safe and logical way to save the life of the -individual. In the olden days gangrene would invariably set in and -the patient die within a short time unless amputation was performed -promptly following the accident.</p> - -<p>Dr. Carrel has gone a long way to eliminate this danger.</p> -</div> - -<p> </p> -<p>Having seen with my own eyes the wonderful results of this treatment -during my visits to the American Ambulance and other hospitals in -France, I requested Mr. Laurence V. Benet, superintendent of the -American Ambulance, to furnish me with an authoritative description of -the treatment. The chief purpose of this is to enable medical -authorities in this country, particularly those connected with hospitals -maintained by iron and steel plants, to gain a reliable outline of the -treatment. Dr. Benet, in spite of the fact that he is one of the busiest -men in France, kindly agreed to furnish this information. In doing so he -accompanied the description with the following letter:</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p class="r">1 Avenue De Camoens<br /> -Paris, October 26, 1916.</p> - -<p>Mr. Joseph G. Butler, Jr., -Youngstown, O.</p> - -<p>My dear Mr. Butler:—</p> - -<p>In compliance with my request, Dr. Joseph Lawrence, of the American -Ambulance, has kindly prepared a short note on the Carrel treatment -of wounds, and this I am now enclosing. I trust that you will find -it sufficiently explicit for your purposes, and that it will be of -use and interest to you.</p> - -<p>Now that you are again home I hope that your wonderful trip in -France will be less than a mere memory and that the labors of the -Industrial Commission will prove, as they should, most valuable to -the manufacturers and exporters of the United States. Believe me -that it was to me a great privilege as well as a great pleasure to -have met you and your distinguished colleagues, and that my only -regret is that I was unable to be of greater use to the Commission.</p> - -<p>I am, with very kind regards,</p> - -<p>Sincerely yours,</p> -<p class="r">LAURENCE V. BENET</p> -<p>1 encl.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<div class="block"> -<p class="center">The Carrel Treatment of Wounds.</p> - -<p>The Carrel treatment consists in thorough irrigation guided by the -bacteriological observation of the wound.</p> - -<p>For the irrigation of the wound, Carrel has chosen a certain size -of rubber tube about 4 mm. in diameter into which he punches small -holes at intervals. The one end of this tube is shut, the other end -is allowed to protrude from the dressing.</p> - -<p>On the surface wound, the tube is laid over the wound in the -direction of the greatest diameter of the wound with the open end -towards the most elevated part.</p> - -<p>In perforating wounds, the tube or several tubes, when the wound is -large, are passed through from both sides, or pushed into cavities -or pockets that may exist.</p> - -<p>If the wound is not a perforating wound, but a deep wound, the -tubes are planted deep into the cavity that may be formed. These -tubes are always of sufficient number to thoroughly irrigate the -broken surface.</p> - -<p>Over the uninjured skin, about the wound, is placed thin strips of -gauze which have been steeped in vaseline, the skin having been -thoroughly washed before with soap and water.</p> - -<p>To keep these tubes in place, a bandage wet with Dakin's solution -is placed over them. The wound is flushed every two hours with -Dakin's solution. The amount of solution used per wound, varies in -proportion to the size of the wound from 500 c.c. per day up. -Wounds are dressed daily.</p> - -<p>The bacteriological observation is made by taking a smear from the -most vicious part of the wound at intervals of two or three days. -The number of bacteria on these smears is noted and counted per oil -immersion field. A count of more than 75 bacteria per field is -considered infinity. When there are less than 10 bacilli to the -field, and not less than 5 to the field, three fields are counted. -When less than 5, and not less than 7, five fields are counted. -When less than one, from five to twenty fields will be counted.</p> - -<p>A wound that retains a count of one bacillus to two fields or less -for three observations, is considered bacteriologically clean, and -suitable for operation. If the wound is a compound fracture, it is -advisable to close the wound, converting it into a simple fracture.</p> - -<p>If this can be done without exerting too great tension on the -sutures.</p> - -<p>If the wound is a flesh wound, and can be drawn together without -too great tension, its closure is indicated.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration]</p> - -<p>The important parts of the treatment consist in thorough -irrigation, and careful bacteriological observation. The -bacteriological observations are charted on charts similar to -temperature charts.</p> - -<p class="center">Dakin's Solution.<br /> -(Sodium Hypochlorite at 0.50%)</p> -<table summary="solution" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="0"> -<tr><td valign="top">1—</td><td>To prepare 10 litres of solution, weight exactly:</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td>Chloride of Lime (Bleaching Powder)</td><td>200 grms.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td>Carbonate of Soda (dried)</td><td align="right">100 grms.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td> or if used in crystals</td><td align="right">200 grms.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td>Bi-carbonate of Soda</td><td align="right">200 grms.</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">2—</td><td>Put the Chloride of Lime into a large mouthed bottle of about 12 -litres capacity. Add 5 litres of water (half the quantity) and -shake well two or three times. Let this stand all night.</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">3—</td><td>Dissolve in another 5 litres of water of two Soda salts.</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">4—</td><td> this latter solution directly into the bottle containing -the maceration of lime. Stir well and let the solution stand in -order to allow the precipitate of Carbonate of Lime to settle.</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">5—</td><td>At the end of half an hour, siphon the clear liquid and filter -by means of a paper, in order to have a perfectly clear solution. -This should be kept away from the light.</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">6—</td><td>No heat should be employed in the manufacture of Dakin's and<br /> -ordinary Tapwater should be used.</td></tr> -</table> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - - -<p class="center">Preparation of Dakin Solution.</p> - -<p class="center">Technique of Dr. Daufresne.</p> - -<p>The solution of sodium hypochlorite for surgical use must be free -of caustic alkali; it must only contain 0.45% to 0.50 of -hypochlorite. Under 0.45% it is not active enough and above 0.50 it -is irritant. With chloride of lime (bleaching powder) having 25% of -active chlorine, the quantities of necessary substances to prepare -ten litres of solution are the following:—</p> - -<table summary="solution" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="0"> -<tr><td>Chloride of Lime (bleaching powder) 25% CI act.</td><td align="right">200 gr.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Sodium Carbonate, dry (Soda of Solway)</td><td align="right">100 gr.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Sodium Bi-carbonate</td><td align="right">80 gr.</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>Pour into 12 litre flask the two hundred grammes of chloride of -lime and five litres of ordinary water, shake vigorously for a few -minutes and leave in contact for six to twelve hours, one night for -example. (Shake until dissolved) at least the big pieces are -dissolved, large pieces float—notice only floating pieces. At the -same time, dissolve in five litres of cold ordinary water the -carbonate and bi-carbonate of soda.</p> - -<p>After leaving from six to twelve hours, pour the salt solution in -the flask containing the macerated chloride of lime, shake -vigorously for a few minutes and leave to allow the calcium -carbonate to be precipitated. In about half an hour, siphon the -liquid and filter with a double paper to obtain a good, clear -liquid, which should always be kept in a dark place.</p> - - -<p class="center">Tritration of Chloride of Lime (Bleaching Powder).</p> - -<p>Because of the variation of the products now obtained in the -market, it is necessary to determine the quantity of active -chlorine contained in the chloride of lime which is to be used. -This, in order to employ an exact calculated quantity according to -its concentration. The test is made in the following manner:—</p> - -<p>Take from different parts of the bar a small quantity of beaching -powder to have a medium sample, weigh 20 grammes of it, mix as well -as possible in a litre of tap water and leave in contact for a few -hours. Measure 10 c.c. of the clear liquid and add 20 c.c. of a 10% -solution of potassium iodide, 2 c.c. of acetic acid or hydrochloric -acid, then put drop by drop into the mixture a decinormal solution -of sodium hyposulfite (2.48%) until decoloration. The number "N" -of cubic centimeters of hyposulfite employed multiplied by 1,775 -will give the weight "N" of active chloride contained in 100 -grammes of chloride of lime.</p> - -<p>The test must be made every time a new product is received. When -the result obtained will differ more or less than 25%, it will be -necessary to reduce or enlarge the proportion of the three products -contained in the preparation. This can be easily obtained by -multiplying each of the three numbers—200, 100, 60 by the factor -N/25 in which N represents the weight of the active chlorine per -cent of chloride of lime.</p> - -<p>Measure 10 c.c. of the solution, add 20 c.c. of potassium iodide -1/10, 2 c.c. of acetic acid and drop by drop a decinormal solution -of sodium hyposulfite until decoloration. The number of cubic -centimeters used multiplied by 0.03725 will give the weight of the -hypochlorite of soda contained in 100 c.c. of the solution.</p> - -<p>Never heat the solution and if in case of urgency one is obliged to -resort to trituration of chloride of lime in a mortar, only employ -water, never salt solution.</p> - - -<p>Test of Thetalkalinity of Dakin Solution:—</p> - -<p>To easily differentiate the solution obtained by this process from -the commercial hypochlorites, pour into a glass about 20 c.c. of -the solution and drop on the surface of the liquid a few -centigrammes of phenol-phthaleine in powder. The correct solution -does not give any coloration while Lebarraque's solution and Rau de -Javel will give an intense red color which shows in the last two -solutions existence of free caustic alkali.</p> - - -<p class="center">TECHNIQUE—Dakin Solution.</p> - -<p>The procedure is very simple. The solution, however, must be -between 45 to 50% hypochlorite. Anything above this strength will -burn and anything below is too weak. The edges of the wound should -be covered with gauze which has been well soaked in vaseline, the -solution should then be introduced into the wounds from an -irrigator every two hours. A stopcock should be put on the tube and -only sufficient solution should be allowed to enter the wound to -completely saturate all parts of the wound. In other words, the -wounds should be bathed with the solution every two hours—do not -mistake this and irrigate continuously. You can easily tell how -much solution it takes to keep the wound wet.</p> - -<p>Rubber tubes are used. The end of the tube is tied off and six to -eight small perforations are made so that the solution can run into -all parts of the wound. If the wounds are superficial, the same -kind of a tube can be used to which a cuff of turkish towel is -wrapped around the end of the tube.</p> - -<p>If you feel that the wounds are sure to be infected, it would be -well to lay them open freely and immediately start this treatment, -be sure to have the skin well protected with the vaseline and gauze -and see that the solution does not run out of the wound on the bed. -Just keep the wound bathed every two hours.</p> - -<p>I have been informed that a movement is on foot to inaugurate the -use of this remarkable discovery in the United States military -hospitals, and that the Rockefeller Foundation has in view the -erection at New York of a large hospital where the treatment may be -studied and still further perfected for the benefit of this -country.</p> - - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Proclamation by the Mayor of Reims Issued on the Day the -Germans Entered that City, Sept. 4, 1914.]<br /> </p> - -<p class="center">TRANSLATION</p> - -<p class="center">APPEAL<br /> -TO THE POPULATION OF REIMS.</p> - -<p>Dear Citizens:</p> - -<p>To-day and in the days following, many from among you, both -prominent citizens and workmen, will be kept as hostages to -guarantee to the German authorities the quiet and good order which -your representatives have promised in your name.</p> - -<p>It is to your security and to the safety of the City and to your -proper interests that you do nothing which may break this agreement -and compromise the future.</p> - -<p>Have realization of your responsibility and facilitate our task.</p> - -<p>Men, women, children, remain as far as possible in your homes, -avoid all discussion.</p> - -<p>We depend upon you to be equal to this occasion.</p> - -<p>All riotous gathering is absolutely forbidden and will be -immediately dispersed.</p> - -<p class="r">J. B. LANGLET, Mayor.<br /> -L. ROUSSEAU, DR. JACQUIN,<br /> -E. CHARBONNEAUX, J. De BRUIGNAC.<br /> -Assistants.</p> -</div> - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="XXV" id="XXV"></a><a href="#toc">XXV.</a></h2> - -<h3>A CITY IN AN ARMY'S PATH</h3> - - -<p class="n"><span class="figleft"><img src="images/029.png" alt="F" /></span>EW who read this book have ever been in contact with actual war. In -order that they may have an idea of what happens to a city which finds -itself in the path of an irresistible enemy, some account will be given -here of what happened to Reims, a city about the size of Youngstown, -having a population of one hundred and twenty-five thousand and being -situated on the north bank of the river Aisne, in north-eastern France.</p> - -<p>When the Germans attacked France they hurled their great armies by three -routes. Not only did they violate the neutrality of Belgium and -Luxembourg, but they also sent an army across the frontier between -Verdun and Belfort, this being the force stopped by the chasseurs at -Gerbeviller, as has been told elsewhere. France had trusted too much and -was in a desperate plight because her troops had been mobilized on the -wrong front.</p> - -<p>The first Germans crossed the frontier of little Luxembourg on the -morning of August 2, 1914. They were met by the Grand Duchess, who -disputed their passage and pleaded with them to turn back. Her little -army of four hundred and thirty men could do nothing, and when she -turned her car across the road the German soldiers gathered around and, -on the order of their commander, pushed it to one side and passed on.</p> - -<p>The Germans entered Belgian territory at Gemmenich on August 3, 1914. -The next day they attempted to take by assault the city of Liege, -Belgium's greatest industrial center, and failed. This city, with its -ring of nine forts, blocked the passage of their troops and held the -main roads into Germany. After a most bloody and unsuccessful assault, -the Germans brought up their big guns and blew the forts to pieces. But -they had been delayed five days. Then their hosts swept across Belgium -and soon came in touch with the French and English. The English army of -one hundred and twenty-five thousand men met them at Mons. The French -met them between Mons and Verdun.</p> - -<p>At this time the Allied lines swung like a huge gate from Verdun west -toward the sea, barring the Kaiser's passage. The Germans then had a -million of men, with hordes of the famous lancers, and clouds of these -horsemen hung on the right flank of the English, swinging out and around -them so as to force Sir John French to fall back or suffer the turning -of his flank. Von Kluck was in command of this turning movement, which -was made possible by the fall of Namur, Lille and Charleroi. Things then -looked desperately bad for the Allies.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: First Order From the Invaders.]<br /> </p> - -<div class="block"> -<p class="center">TRANSLATION</p> - -<p class="center">ORDER</p> - -<p>Having taken possession of the City and the fortress of Reims I -command the following:</p> - -<p>Railroads, routes of communications, both telegraph and telephone, -not only of the City of Reims, but also throughout the immediately -outlying districts, must be protected against all possibility of -destruction; it is absolutely necessary to protect by a minute -surveillance the public buildings along the lines of communication. -The City will be held responsible for disobedience to this order: -the guilty ones will be pursued and shot; the City will be levied -for considerable contributions.</p> - -<p>I add also that it will be to the interest of the population to -conform to the foregoing commands, at the same time going about -their ordinary occupations; thus the inhabitants will avoid having -new and serious losses.</p> - -<p class="r">THE GERMAN GENERAL<br /> -Commander in Chief.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p>This notice on a white card, 45 by 56 centimeters, was posted on the -walls of the City of Reims by German authority during the occupation of -September 4th to 12th, 1914.</p> -</div> - -<p>As they were forced back toward Paris, not so much by actual fighting as -by the necessity to keep their lines clear and avoid the turning -movement of the swift German division under Von Kluck, the Allied armies -swung, like a gate with its hinges at Verdun and the outer edge at Mons, -back until they stretched between Verdun and Paris. This movement -uncovered the beautiful city of Reims, with its countless art treasures, -its magnificent cathedral and its thriving population of more than a -hundred thousand people, all of which, as the swinging movement -continued, were left to the mercy of the German army. The French -evacuated Reims with nothing more than some rear-guard fighting and fell -back southward to take their places in the great battle line which -Joffre had planned somewhere north of Paris—on the Marne, as it was -later evident.</p> - -<p>As the Allied forces swung backward to this then unknown position, they -were hard pressed by the advancing German hosts. Their retreat will -stand as one of the most masterly in history, for during ten days these -vast armies retired more than two hundred miles on their left flank -without disorder and without excessive loss of men or material.</p> - -<p>The English army occupied the side toward the sea in these grand -maneuvers for position. Sir John French moved swiftly backward, fighting -as he went and constantly swinging outward to prevent Von Kluck from -encircling his flank. On the morning of September 3rd, he reached a -point between Paris and the sea, actually a little north of that city. -Suddenly in response to orders from Joffre, he marched his tired troops -through Paris to Lagny, twenty miles east of the capital, where he took -up a position on the Marne front.</p> - -<p>Von Kluck was almost in sight of Paris in hot pursuit of the English -when he found how he had been tricked. He could not attack the defenses, -and it was urgently necessary for him to join the main army on the Marne -front. To do this he had to circle to the north, around the outer -fortifications of Paris a much longer march than that of the English.</p> - -<p>The French government had packed its belongings and left for Bordeaux on -the morning of the day the English passed through Paris, and the people -thought the Germans were about to besiege the city. All buildings in the -line of fire had been destroyed, the civilian population sent south, and -every preparation made for defense. Joffre only knew the real plan.</p> - -<p>The Parisians were amazed when the Germans scarcely stopped in front of -their city. They could not understand why Von Kluck should suddenly -withdraw to the east, because they did not know how badly he was needed -on the Marne front. But Von Kluck must have suspected, for it is said -that he told an aide that, "We have met with a great misfortune."</p> - -<p>Von Kluck was right, for the masterly strategy of Joffre had won the -battle of the Marne before a shot had been fired in that historic -struggle.</p> - -<p>These facts were gleaned from military men whom we met in France. They -show how little the civilian population of a military zone, or even the -soldiers themselves, know of the movements in which they are engaged. -Evidently Joffre had not confided his plans even to the government -authorities at Paris, preferring to have the seat of government move and -the population flee rather than take chances of these plans being -learned by the enemy. So also at Reims.</p> - -<p>The French who had been stubbornly defending the city they love best -next to Paris from German "Kultur," were forced to move through Reims -and to the south to take their place in the great battle line on the -Marne. They went reluctantly and the Germans followed them into the -city.</p> - -<p>This explains the situation shown in the poster on page 245. The Germans -were just outside of Reims on September 3rd, and the Mayor knew that the -French army was moving south and leaving the city at their mercy. He -counselled his people concerning their conduct, warning them to -interfere in no rear-guard action such as was likely to occur. This -proclamation was dated September 3, 1914.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Second German Proclamation.]<br /> </p> - -<div class="block"> -<p class="center">TRANSLATION</p> - -<p class="center">PROCLAMATION</p> - -<p>All authorities of the French Government and Municipal authorities -are advised as follows:</p> - -<p>1st—All peaceable inhabitants may follow their regular occupations -in full security without being disturbed. Private property will be -absolutely respected by the German troops. Provisions of all sorts -suitable for the needs of the German army will be paid for as -purchased.</p> - -<p>2nd—If, on the contrary, the population dares in any form, whether -openly or disguised, to take part in hostilities against our troops -the most diverse punishments will be inflicted upon the guilty -ones.</p> - -<p>3rd—All firearms must be deposited immediately at the Mayor's -office; all individuals bearing arms will be put to death.</p> - -<p>4th—Whoever cuts or attempts to cut telegraph or telephone wires, -destroys railroad tracks, bridges, roadways, or who plans any -action whatsoever to the detriment of the German troops will be -shot on the spot.</p> - -<p>5th—The inhabitants of the city or of the villages who take part -in the battle against our troops, who fire on our baggage trains or -on our commissary, or who attempt to hinder any enterprises of the -German soldiers, will be shot immediately.</p> - -<p>The civil authorities alone are in a position to spare the -inhabitants the terrors and scourge of war. They are the ones who -will be responsible for the inevitable consequences resulting from -this proclamation.</p> - -<p class="r">Chief of Staff, Major General of the German Army<br /> -VON MOLTKE</p> -</div> - -<p>White card, 45 x 56, posted on the walls of the city of Reims by German -authority during the occupation of September 4th to 12th, 1914.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p>On September 4th the Germans entered Reims, having met with no -resistance. They occupied the city without interruption until after the -battle of the Marne, which historic struggle began at sunrise on -September 6th and continued along a front of about 140 miles until -September 12th.</p> - -<p>In this battle, which was lost to the Germans because they had been -out-maneuvered and compelled to shorten their front so that they were -rolled up on both right and left wings, two million, five hundred -thousand men were engaged—the greatest number taking part in one battle -in the history of the world. Of these nine hundred thousand were Germans -and the remainder Allies, principally French, the English having only a -little more than one hundred thousand men in France at that time. On -account of their superiority of numbers, the Allies were able to extend -their front and thus threaten the Germans with envelopment at both ends -of the long battle line, which reached from Meaux, twenty miles east of -Paris, to the fortress of Verdun.</p> - -<p>The losses in this tremendous battle are said to have been exceeded only -by those of the battle of Flanders, which began October 13, and in which -more than three hundred thousand men were slain. The losses at the Marne -have never been officially stated.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Citizens Warned of Danger.]<br /> </p> - -<div class="block"> -<p class="center">MAYOR'S OFFICE<br /> -REIMS</p> - -<p class="center">IMPORTANT NOTICE</p> - -<p>The inhabitants are requested to abstain absolutely from touching -shells which have not been exploded and are requested to notify -immediately the police department, Rue de Mars regarding any such.</p> - -<p>The least shock may cause the explosion of the projectile.</p> - -<p>Reims, September 7, 1914. DR. LANGLET, Mayor.</p> - -<p>Notice posted in Reims by order of the Mayor, September 7th, 1914.</p> -</div> -<p> </p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p>Next followed the battle of the Aisne, in which the invaders were again -defeated and forced to retreat. It was in this battle that the Germans -made their last stand south of Reims. They had prepared strong positions -on the right bank of this river as they moved toward Paris and in these -tried to stem the tide of battle without avail. They were pushed back -slowly out of these positions, some of which we were shown, and after -being driven to the north of Reims, they began, on September 20th, the -bombardment that destroyed the famous cathedral and many of the finest -structures in the city.</p> - -<p>It will be seen that the Germans, on their entry into Reims, guaranteed -the safety of life and property. They had forgotten this when, on -September 15, the victorious French reoccupied the city. Five days -later, without reason or any other motive than revenge, the Germans, now -making another stand in the trenches to the north of the city, opened -fire on the cathedral and the bishop's palace nearby, destroying both -beyond repair.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Citizens Warned that Hostages may be Hanged.]<br /> </p> - -<div class="block"> -<p class="center">TRANSLATION</p> - -<p class="center">PROCLAMATION</p> - -<p>In case a battle takes place today or very soon in the environs of -Reims or in the city itself, the inhabitants are advised that they -should keep absolutely calm and are not to take part in the battle -in any manner. They must not attempt to attack isolated soldiers -nor detachments of the German army. It is formally forbidden to -build barricades or tear up pavement of the streets in such a -fashion as to hinder the movement of the troops. In a word nothing -must be done which will in any way tend to hinder the German army.</p> - -<p>In order to insure sufficiently the safety of the troops and in -order to keep the population of Reims calm, the persons named below -have been taken as hostages by the commanding general of the German -army. Those hostages will be hanged at the least sign of disorder. -At the same time the city will be entirely or partially burned and -the inhabitants hanged if any infraction whatsoever is committed -against the preceding rules.</p> - -<p>On the other hand if the city remains absolutely tranquil and calm, -the hostages and the inhabitants will be placed under the safeguard -of the German Army. By order of German authority,</p> - -<p>Reims, September 12, 1914. DR. LANGLET, Mayor.</p> -</div> -<p> </p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p>Both armies surged backward and forward over Reims twice, and it is not -surprising that the city suffered severely. Nevertheless, the French -officer who gave us the information outlined above was firmly of the -opinion that the cathedral had been wantonly destroyed in revenge for -the defeat and humiliation suffered by the German commanders at the -Marne and the Aisne. Whatever may have been the motive, and regardless -of how great may have been the excuse, the two illustrations of this -splendid structure shown in a previous chapter are sufficient to stamp -its destruction as a crime that can hardly be justified by the plea of -military necessity.</p> - -<p>Reims, when we saw it, with the story that is told by the proclamations -reproduced, furnishes strong evidence that General Sherman was right -when he described war.</p> - - - -<hr style="width: 65%;" /> -<h2><a name="XXVI" id="XXVI"></a><a href="#toc">XXVI.</a></h2> - -<h3>SOME IMPRESSIONS OF FRANCE AND THE FRENCH</h3> - - -<p class="n"><span class="figleft"><img src="images/030.png" alt="I" /></span>N closing this work it is my hope that the reader will consider that -its inspiration and purpose have been stated with sufficient clearness, -but in this final chapter I am venturing to record my general -impressions of a truly great nation seen during a period which must be -regarded as part of the most vital epoch in its history. This concluding -chapter will have accomplished my purpose if it portrays the patriotic -nationality of the French under existing conditions, in such manner as -to be considered worthy of emulation in our own country.</p> - -<p>During the necessarily brief and hurried visits made by our Commission -to many parts of France, I met many notables, generals, under officers, -parliament members, prefects, as well as great commercial leaders, but -regret that owing to lack of time and my ignorance of the French -language, opportunity for investigation and conversation with the -bourgeoise was slight. Nevertheless it would be impossible to travel -through afflicted France as our Commission did without experiencing an -acute impression of the solidarity and quiet, determined patriotism of -the French people. They stand as one to fight the war to a decisive -finish. They treat the war as some gigantic job, about which there is to -be no questioning, no weighing of sacrifices of life, comfort or -finances, and which simply must go on until finished satisfactorily.</p> - -<p>This development of the French character must come as a revelation to -those who have in the past regarded the French as a volatile, frivolous, -impulsive people, virile, yet lacking the accredited determination and -persistency of the Teuton. This impression has been a great mistake. The -faces of the men and women of France alike show no sign of vacillation. -The French are counting the terrific cost, as becomes the thriftiest of -nations, expecting to collect a bill that in their opinion has been -running since the Franco-Prussian war and through the humiliating and -irksome years which followed under the "favored nation" clause. From any -other standpoint I believe few Frenchmen ever permit themselves to dwell -upon the ruin and suffering the present cataclysm has brought upon their -country.</p> - -<p>Upon comprehending this attitude of the French, the thinking American -cannot avoid speculation as to what would happen in these United States -should a like emergency confront us. We may not dismiss such thought -with the statement that such an emergency is impossible. It is a most -unpleasant possibility and must be faced. We might be unconquerable, -in the sense that Russia cannot be conquered because of her magnificent -distances and natural barriers against a foe; but without the -preparedness and the single-hearted patriotism of the French, an invader -would find nothing in America to prevent him from working destruction -beyond calculation and inflicting humiliation that would be even worse.</p> - -<p class="center">[Illustration: Postal-card Painted by Artist Soldier in French -Trenches.]</p> - -<p>As these lines are written we are still at peace with all the warring -nations. Our neutrality has been preserved only by submitting to -outrages such as have been endured without forcible protest by no other -great nation in the history of the world. If our patience with Germany -serves as an example to the world of how a great and magnanimous nation -may make sacrifices to encourage peace, our policy will prove to be -wise. If, on the other hand, it serves only to make the Germans believe -that we are too mercenary or two weak-kneed to defend ourselves and thus -encourages further transgressions, our peaceable policy will have been a -great mistake. After an opportunity to observe at close hand the methods -and motives of the German war party, I am frankly afraid that the latter -situation will prove to be the outcome. We shall be indeed fortunate if -we can keep out of the war that has involved half the civilized world.</p> - -<p>Nations like men profit by experience. The French people have records -of history and civilization extending beyond the days of the Roman -Empire, and that civilization has gone steadily forward through many -centuries. No wonder then that they excel us in many things; the wonder -is that they do not excel in all. In architecture and the arts, France -leads America. This must be admitted by any fair-minded person familiar -with the facts. But in industrial affairs the story is different.</p> - -<p>Our country has adopted more progressive and efficient methods in the -industrial field than can be found in France, where efficiency is not -the word so much as is the comfort of the workers. This is particularly -true of the iron and steel business. We saw in France not a single steel -plant that could compare in efficiency with the great plants of this -country. By this is meant that in none of the plants visited was the -output per man nearly so great or the share enjoyed by the worker nearly -so large, as is the rule in this country. Since we did not see the -plants to the north which had been captured by the Germans, perhaps it -is not altogether fair to make this comparison. Nevertheless the same -impression was gained in the inspection of other industrial operations. -The French workman is more artistic but he does not move so rapidly or -produce so much as does the American. Neither of course, does he enjoy -so large a remuneration. On the whole, wages are much less in -proportion to individual production in France than in this country.</p> - -<p>To the resident of a country which has not had a war within the memory -of a generation, it is hard to convey by written or printed words a just -conception of what a great war means to any country involved. The -outward, visible evidence of individual restraint was one of the most -vivid things witnessed on our trip through France: at least this was the -case with me and, I believe, with some others of the Commission.</p> - -<p>In France the individual has disappeared; he has been swallowed by the -State; the nation in its dire necessity, obeying the law of -self-preservation has practically obliterated the individual as such. He -has become simply a small part of a great whole, a whole so -inconceivably more important than any of its parts that all of them are -completely subordinated.</p> - -<p>The average American citizen would resent with heat the regulations -regarded as a matter of course in France. He would fume and fret and all -but rebel, if asked to live as the French people are forced to live -during the war.</p> - -<p>From what we could learn the submersion of the individual is far greater -in Germany than in France, but to a healthy American citizen, accustomed -to doing about as he pleases so long as he is able to pay the price and -injures no one else, there is abundant restriction on personal liberty -at this time in France. Possibly under similar circumstances we would as -a people show an equal spirit of self-repression for the benefit of the -national welfare.</p> - -<p>The first great lesson taught by war to the death—as this war is for -all concerned—is the great outstanding fact that people as individuals -must surrender their rights to the people as a whole. Obedience to -constituted authority must be absolute. Personal tastes and interests -must be ignored or suppressed. The whole nation must work as one man, -under the direction of one head, to keep it from being made subject to -some other nation having less regard for personal liberty and more -respect for efficiency.</p> - -<p>I took particular pains to ascertain directly and indirectly from all -classes the feeling of the French people towards Germany and the -Germans. Prior to the declaration of war it is safe to say the feeling -was not wholly unfriendly. Only three months before war was declared a -similar commission came from Germany. The German commissioners were -treated with great consideration. Plants and industrial establishments -were shown, views exchanged and entertainments were the order of the -day, or rather of the night, and everything possible done by the French -to foster a good feeling, having in mind increased trade facilities -between the two nations. But after war was declared, French territory -invaded and the unspeakable and unwritable deeds of the German soldiers -made manifest, this previous feeling changed to one of hatred and -revenge which it will take generations to eradicate.</p> - -<p>In our intercourse with the French people a kindly appreciative feeling -was manifest towards the English and Americans; a feeling of deep -gratitude towards England for the great part she has taken in the war -and to America for the generous aid and assistance rendered in many -ways. Hospital work and the great aid rendered by American aviators were -much dwelt upon, the personal work of American men and women being -everywhere in evidence.</p> - -<p>Since my return I have been asked by a great many people as to the -revival or otherwise of religious feeling as the result of the war, also -as to the food situation, the general appearance of the country in -France, the manner in which the dwelling houses are built, the -maintenance of public roads, the school system of France and its -efficiency as well as to the conditions prevailing now compared with -former visits. France has never been deeply religious. Catholicism -prevails to a great extent at present and has for centuries, although -certain parts of France are Protestant. Such divisions and subdivisions -of Protestant churches as prevail in the United States are unknown. A -Frenchman or a Frenchwoman is either a Catholic or Protestant. -Religious feeling is no doubt deeper in the country districts than in -the larger cities, and this is particularly true of the Catholics. From -the brief talk I had with French people on this particular subject I -should say the war has made no difference and the religious attitude is -about the same. The thoughts of the French people are so concentrated -upon the war and its consequences that but little else occupies their -minds.</p> - -<p>During our sojourn in France, food seemed plenty and we heard no -complaint of shortage. The French are proverbially thrifty and can and -do live comfortably upon the equivalent of what Americans waste. When a -Frenchman finishes his meal there is nothing left on the plate, on -dishes or in the glasses. This was particularly noticeable at all the -banquets and luncheons which we attended.</p> - -<p>We had but little opportunity of ascertaining prices. The market houses -in the small villages seemed well stocked with provisions.</p> - -<p>Going to school in France is a governmental affair as all the schools -are run by the Government, excepting only the convent schools, where -higher education is taught to private pupils. France contains many high -grade "polytechnique" schools, arts, military and schools of mines, all -regulated and managed through the government department of education. I -should say the common school system is not as thorough as in Germany, -where education is wholly compulsory. Military education and training in -France is a part of the established system of the public schools and is -rigidly enforced. There are schools for training of officers the -equivalent of our own West Point. Children of the wealthier class in -France are taught and trained by private tutors. Retired army officers -are largely employed in the military schools.</p> - -<p>Our journey through France was largely through the devastated districts. -I am certain that when this portion of France is rebuilt it will be done -on a more sanitary scale, as indicated by the beginning of the -reconstruction by Miss Daisy Polk and her associates at Vitrimont.</p> - -<p>I was specially impressed by the magnificent scenery we saw and passed -through during the latter part of our journey. The French Alps are -considered in scenic effects equal to the world famous views in -Switzerland. We were treated by the authorities directing the movements -of the military automobiles with a perilous night ride from Le Puy to -St. Etienne. Starting about eight o'clock we were taken a distance of -nearly a hundred miles around, over and across gorges, steep inclines -and winding roads innumerable. We got through safely but were warned -from time to time by the peasantry that the ride had never previously -been attempted except in day-light. We were several times lost and -traced and retraced our steps time and again. But few of the party knew -of the real danger we had passed through until told the following day.</p> - -<p>Concluding I may say adieu to the reader by adding that the Commission -has issued a printed report of its labors, the information contained in -that book being the joint and collaborative work of all the -commissioners. I have availed myself of some of the information -contained in the two chapters in this commission report "The Work of -Reconstruction" and "French Business Organizations".</p> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Journey Through France in War Time, by -Joseph G. 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/dev/null diff --git a/old/20464.txt b/old/20464.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 53cae3f..0000000 --- a/old/20464.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7235 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Journey Through France in War Time, by -Joseph G. Butler, Jr. - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: A Journey Through France in War Time - -Author: Joseph G. Butler, Jr. - -Release Date: January 28, 2007 [EBook #20464] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by the -Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at -http://gallica.bnf.fr) - - - - - - - - - - -[Illustration: Typical French Soldier in Uniform.] - -A Journey Through France in War Time - -By JOSEPH G. BUTLER, JR. - -Member of The American Industrial Commission to France. - -THE PENTON PRESS CLEVELAND 1917 - -[Illustration: inscription by author.] - -Copyright, 1917, by -Joseph G. Butler, Jr., Youngstown, O. -One hundred copies of this edition -have been printed of which -this is number -39 - -_Second Edition_ - -TO THE MEN AND WOMEN OF FRANCE -WHO AMID INEXPRESSIBLE SORROWS -AND INFINITE CARES EXTENDED A -GRACIOUS WELCOME TO THE AMERICAN -INDUSTRIAL COMMISSION AND -TO THE AUTHOR THIS BOOK IS -GRATEFULLY DEDICATED - -***** - - - - -CONTENTS - - -CHAPTER I -Origin of the Purpose of the Trip. - -CHAPTER II -Crossing the Atlantic. - -CHAPTER III -Bordeaux and Paris. - -CHAPTER IV -Meeting England's Premier. - -CHAPTER V -The Birthplace of Lafayette. - -CHAPTER VI -A Great Munitions Plant. - -CHAPTER VII -Art and Architecture of Aries. - -CHAPTER VIII -Along the Mediterranean. - -CHAPTER IX -Towns in Southern France. - -CHAPTER X -The Creusot Gun Works. - -CHAPTER XI -Approaching the Front. - -CHAPTER XII -Within Sound of the Guns. - -CHAPTER XIII -The Story of Gerbeviller. - -CHAPTER XIV -On the Main Front. - -CHAPTER XV -Reims and the Trenches. - -CHAPTER XVI -Back to Paris. - -CHAPTER XVII -On the Way Home--England. - -CHAPTER XVIII -On the Broad Atlantic. - -CHAPTER XIX -The French Steel Industry in War Time. - -CHAPTER XX -Where War Has Raged. - -CHAPTER XXI -General Joffre. - -CHAPTER XXII -The Work of Reconstruction. - -CHAPTER XXIII -French Business Organizations. - -CHAPTER XXIV -The Carrel Method of Treating Wounds. - -CHAPTER XXV -A City in an Army's Path. - -CHAPTER XXVI -Some impressions of France and the French. - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS - - -Typical French Soldier in Uniform - -Photograph of Commissioners, Taken on Train Leaving Paris for Limoges - -The Author's Passport - -Autograph Signatures of the Commission - -Grand Theatre, Bordeaux. Closed Until the War Ends - -Miniature French Flag Carried by the Author Through France. The Waving - of This Flag by an American Aroused Much Enthusiasm - -Lloyd George, Who Says "England is Fighting a Battle for Civilization" - -Miss Winifred Holt, "Keeper of the Light House of France" - -Ancient Bridge at Limoges--Built by the Romans Two Thousand Years Ago - and Still in Use - -Tapestry Workers at Aubusson - -Lafayette's Deathbed, With Commission's Flag and Flowers - -Monastery of St. Michael, at le Puy - -Silk Tapestry Menu Used at Dinner to the Commission at St. Etienne - -Col. Rimailho With 155-mm. Gun (upper) and Famous 75-mm. Gun (lower) - Perfected by Him - -Women Employed in Munitions Factories - -Arlesiennes--Types of Southern France - -Old Roman Arena at Aries--Still Used for Bull Fights and Other - Amusements - -Shore of the Mediterranean Near Marseilles. In the distance Chateau - D'If, Made Famous by Dumas - -Types From the French Provinces - -Monastery of Chartreuse - -New 520-mm. Gun, Carrying Projectile Seven Feet in Length and Weighing - 3,100 lbs., Seen at Creusot Works - -German Prisoners Passing Through the Village of St. Etienne - -The Lion of Belfort - -Battlefield of La Chipotte, Showing Monument and Markers on Graves - -Ruins of Gerbeviller - -Sister Julie - -Cathedral at Nancy - -German Trenches Captured by the French - -The Reims Cathedral Before its Destruction - -Ruins at Reims. Upper and Lower Plates--The Cathedral. Middle Plate--The - Archbishop's Palace - -Key of Archbishop's Palace at Reims and Bone From Twelfth Century Tombs - Opened by German Shells - -Trenches Visited by the Commission - -King Albert's Address to the Belgians - -Photograph of King Albert of Belgium, with the Royal Autograph - -French Marines Operating 75-mm. Gun on Shipboard - -Nancy--Place Stanislas - -Ruins of Village--St. Die - -The Prefecture at Reims After Bombardment - -Portrait in Tapestry--General Joffre - -Ruins at Nancy - -Trenches Occupied by French Soldiers - -Proclamation Posted in Reims Just Before the French Fell Back - to the Marne - -Arrival of Wounded Soldiers at Chalons, on the Marne - -Proclamation by the Mayor of Reims, Issued on the day the Germans - Entered that City, September 4, 1914 - -First Order From the Invaders - -Second German Proclamation - -Citizens Warned of Danger - -Citizens Warned that Hostages May be Hanged - -Postal-card Painted by Artist Soldier in French Trenches - - - - -FOREWORD - - -Of all that has been written, or is to be written, by Americans -concerning the tragedy overwhelming the Old World, much must naturally -be descriptive of conditions in France, since that country is, among -those affected by military occupation, most accessible and most closely -in sympathy with American ideals and American history. - -While the ground covered by these pages may be, therefore, not -unfamiliar, the motives prompting their preparation are probably unique. -It has been undertaken at the request of friends, but not entirely for -their pleasure; since the author hopes that those who read it may see in -the patriotic devotion and courage of the French people something of the -spirit that should animate our country, whose aspirations toward liberty -the French aided even before they were themselves free. - -Written in hours snatched for the task amid the press of other duties, -these pages endeavor to present a simple, intimate and personal story of -experiences enjoyed and impressions gained under most unusual -circumstances and herein shared with my friends as one of the most -interesting incidents of a long and busy life. - -* * * - - - - -A Journey Through France in War Time - -ORIGIN OF THE PURPOSE OF THE TRIP - - -In the Autumn and Winter of 1915, a body of distinguished and -representative Frenchmen visited the United States, their object being -to make an investigation of conditions here, having in mind the great -need of France in war munitions, the steel in ingot and bar form very -much needed for the manufacture of war materials, and the numerous other -commodities necessary for prosecution of the war, which had been in -progress more than a year. - -The finances of France were also very much in evidence in the minds of -the visitors. - -The names and occupation of this French Trade Commission appear -following: - -Chairman--Monsieur Maurice Damour, -Secretary of the French Deputies' Commission -on Appropriations. - -Monsieur Jacquez Lesueur, -Delegate of the Ministry of Agriculture. - -Monsieur L. Trincano, -Director of the Horological School of Besancon. - -Monsieur Jacquez de Neuflize, -Banker. - -Monsieur M. Chouffour, -of the Credit Francais. - -Monsieur L. Vibien, -Director of the National Bank of Credit. - -Monsieur E. Delassale-Thiriez, -Secretary of the Syndicate of Spinners. - -Monsieur M. Saladin, -Delegate of the Creusot Factory. - -Monsieur Joseph Guinet, -Delegate of the Chamber of Commerce of -Lyons. - -This Commission visited various parts of the United States, principally -the great iron and steel centers, Pittsburgh, Youngstown and Chicago. - -Much attention was shown the party in their journey through our land. - -An introductory luncheon to this French Commission was given by The -American Manufacturers Export Association at the Hotel Biltmore, New -York, Tuesday, November 23rd, 1915. This luncheon was attended by a -representative number of American manufacturers and bankers, and the -object of the visitors fully discussed. On this occasion it was -suggested by Mr. E. V. Douglass, the efficient secretary of the Export -Association, that a return visit of Americans would be in order and -would assist in accomplishing the object of the visitors. This -suggestion was followed up early in 1916 and took form later on in the -appointment and selection of the members of "The Commission Industrielle -Americaine en France", the expedition being organized and financed under -the direction of The American Manufacturers' Export Association, located -at 160 Broadway, New York City. - -This association has an active membership of over five hundred -manufacturers, firms and corporations engaged in the production of all -kinds of fabricated materials, from steel to women's lingerie. - -The president of the association, Mr. E. M. Herr, of Pittsburgh, closely -associated with the Westinghouse interests, was the moving spirit in -creating and selecting the organization and formulating the plans and -policy of the Industrial Commission, even to the extent of selecting the -chairman. - -The membership of the commission, their occupations, business and -professional status, is given herewith: - -M. W. W. Nichols, President; Vice President "American -Manufacturers' Export Association." President, Adjount du Conseil -d'Administration "Allis-Chalmers Mfg. Co., Inc.," New York, N. Y. - -M. J. G. Butler, Jr., Fabricant de fer et d'acier, Vice-president -"Brier Hill Steel Company", Youngstown, Ohio. - -M. A. B. Farquhar, President "A. B. Farquhar Co., Ltd., York, Pa." -Vice-president "National Chamber of Commerce of the United -States." - -M. G. B. Ford, New York, Urbaniste-Conseil. - -M. S. F. Hoggson, Conseil-Expert en matieres et materiaux de -construction; President "Hoggson Bros. & Co., Inc." New York, N. Y. - -M. F. J. Le Maistre, Ingenieur-Chimiste-Conseil E. I. du Pont de -Nemours et Co., Wilmington, Del. - -M. J. R. Mac Arthur, President Mac Arthur Bros., Co., New York, N. -Y.; Ex-Sous-Secretaire du Department d'Etat, Washington, D. C. - -M. Le Dr. C. O. Mailloux, Chevalier de la Legion d'Honneur, -Ingenieur-Electricien, New York, N. Y., Ancien President "American -Institute of Electrical Engineers." - -M. C. G. Pfeiffer, Vice-president "Geo. Borgfeldt et Co.," New -York, Importateurs et Exportateurs; Member of "National Chamber of -Commerce of the United States." - -M. J. E. Sague, Poughkeepsie, N. Y., Ingenieur-Mecanicien. Ancien -New York Public Service Commissioner; Ancien Vice-president -"American Locomotive Co.", New York, N.Y. - -M. E. A. Warren, Expert en matieres et precedes textiles; -Vice-president "Universal Winding Co.", Boston, Mass. - -M. E. V. Douglass, Secretaire General; Secretaire "American -Manufacturers' Export Association." - -M. E. Garden, Secretaire Francais. - -[Illustration: Photograph of Commissioners Taken on Train Leaving Paris -for Limoges.] - -This roster is taken from the previously mentioned booklet, "The -Commission Industrielle Americaine en France." The object of the -Commission is carefully set forth in the opening, in French, and for the -benefit of readers who speak English only, a translation follows: - -The American Industrial Commission in France, organized under the -auspices of the American Manufacturers' Export Association, with -the cordial approval of France and of the United States, -principally for a sympathetic study of industrial and commercial -conditions in France. - -At the time of the visit to America by the French Commercial -Commission in the winter of 1915-1916, the idea was proposed to -different American industrial and commercial associations, to -organize a similar mission for the purpose of returning this visit -to France. - -This idea was taken up by the American Manufacturers' Export -Association, which, incorporated in 1911, numbers among its -membership more than five hundred organizations of great importance -in the American industrial world. This organization is co-operative -in character, with the general idea of developing and maintaining -commercial relations between the United States and foreign -countries. - -The importance of the proposed mission becomes more apparent -through a detailed analysis of its program, which comprises a study -of the most practical means of utilizing the resources and -experience of America for the reconstruction which France desires -to make of its communities and of its industries, during and after -the war. - -The Association has succeeded in organizing a commission made up of -men well qualified to render the service desired. - -The American Industrial Commission in France will strive to -establish an active co-operation with its French associates, with a -view of developing the commercial and industrial relation already -existing between the two nations and to make them more cordial and -more satisfactory on both sides. - -The Association hopes to succeed through the work of the Commission -in contributing in some measure to this happy result, and at the -same time strengthen the friendship and sympathy which has existed -between these two nations for more than a century. - -A circular issued by The American Manufacturers' Export Association is -of interest in this connection and was sent to members under -consideration and to manufacturers, soliciting subscriptions for the -expenses of the Commission. This circular is herein reproduced. - -* * * - -AMERICAN INDUSTRIAL COMMISSION TO FRANCE - -August-September, 1916 - -OBJECTS - -Primarily, to make a thorough and technical investigation of -present conditions in France looking to the reconstruction and -re-organization of her communities and industries which will take -place during and after the war to an extent unparalleled in -history, and further, to determine the best and most complete -manner in which the United States may contribute from her resources -to accomplish these results; to arrange for largely increased -purchases of French products and fully reciprocal commercial -relations. - -In the cause of a thorough neutrality, it should be distinctly -understood that this undertaking is based upon cordial proposals -which came to us unsolicited, and that we stand ready to do -likewise in all other directions under similar conditions. - -METHODS - -Commissioners of known technical experience--members of the -American Manufacturers' Export Association and others--will be -chosen to investigate the present industrial situation in France in -order to aid by American brains, energies and facilities the -rehabilitation of a structure seriously damaged, and in many -instances destroyed, by the ravages of war. - -Extraordinary and unprecedented facilities have been granted by the -French Government to aid the Commission in its endeavors, affording -every assurance of a successful outcome. - -An official account of the Commission's visit, with a summary of -conclusions regarding each phase of its investigation, will later -be reported and published for general distribution under the -authority of the American Manufacturers' Export Association. - -REPRESENTATION - -It is intended to include all the industries of the United States -concerned in French trade under the following classifications: - -I. Prime Movers: - -(Steam, Gas and Oil Engines; Pumping Engines, Steam and Hydraulic, -Turbines, Condensers, Generators and all other adjuncts.) - -Heavy Machinery: (Rolling Mills, Iron and Steel Products, etc.) - -II. Machine-Tools, Wire, Transmission and Textile Machinery. - -III. Milling Machinery: - -(Flour and Saw Mills; Cement, Milling, Smelting, Agricultural and -Road Machinery.) - -IV. Electrical Apparatus. - -V. Transportation: - -(Locomotives, Cars, Naval Vessels, etc.) - -VI. Importers: - -(Textile, including Laces; Dry-Goods of all kinds; Porcelains, -Groceries and Wines; Toys.) - -VII. Synthetic Products based on chemical processes; Chemicals, -Explosives, etc. - -VIII. Bankers. - -IX. Factory Architects, Engineers and Contractors. - -PERSONNEL - -Commissioners of broad experience in their respective lines will be -chosen--men of national reputation who will lend dignity and -standing to the enterprise and guarantee a result both conclusive -and effective. - -ITINERARY - -With the co-operation of the French authorities an itinerary has -been tentatively prepared covering the principal industrial cities -and sections of France and consuming, together with ocean passages -approximately 60 days. A definite program is being arranged with -the cordial aid of French chambers of commerce and the great -economical associations in the localities to be visited, and this -work is now proceeding with the authority and full approval of the -French Government. Railway and other transportation throughout -France will be provided for the American Commission by the -Government. The proposed visit has aroused intense interest on -every side, and extensive plans have been made for the reception -and instructive entertainment of the American delegation. - -MANAGEMENT - -One of the commissioners will be appointed to take general charge of the -Commission on behalf of the American Export Association and it will be -the duty of this representative to collaborate with the French -authorities, appointed for this purpose, in the consummation of plans; -to assume executive charge of the work of the Commission; and to -organize the details necessary to the preparation of the official report -to be issued for the full benefit of American industry. - -To insure absolute regularity and efficiency of progress the -Commission as a body, will be subject to this Commissioner General. - -* * * - -My connection as a member of the Commission came about through the -suggestion made to Mr. E. M. Herr, by Mr. James A. Farrell, President of -the United States Steel Corporation, Mr. E. A. S. Clarke, President of -the Lackawanna Steel Company, and Mr. Willis Larimer King, -Vice-president of The Jones & Laughlin Steel Company. - -I was not the first choice, however, as a number of gentlemen had been -previously considered and had either declined the honor or had been -eliminated from the list of candidates. The pressure upon me from -numerous friends in the steel business to accept the task was persistent -and continuous, and upon receipt of a telegram from Mr. Farrell, telling -me, within a week of the proposed sailing of the Commission, that if I -did not accept, the great iron and steel industries of the United States -would be unrepresented, the matter was settled and I decided that it was -due to my fellow manufacturers, many of whom had been kind to me over a -long period of time and who had helped me in many ways, that I should -accept the position. I notified Mr. Herr to that effect just one week -prior to the date of sailing. - -[Illustration: The Author's Passport.] - -I had intended to take an active part in the political campaign pending -and such a trip involved keen disappointment in this connection, as I -felt that a change of the administration was necessary for the best -interests of the country. I had voted for every Republican president -from Lincoln to Taft and wanted very much to be somewhat instrumental in -the election of Mr. Hughes. - -The McKinley Birthplace Memorial needed my attention, as well as other -matters of a public nature, to say nothing about the various business -enterprises in which I am still active. - -All these obligations were temporarily abandoned and hurried -preparations were made for the long and, as thought by many, dangerous -journey. - - - - -II. - -CROSSING THE ATLANTIC - - -The French Line was selected by the sponsor for the trip as being the -safest route and somewhat as a compliment to the French nation. Passage -was engaged for the entire party on the Lafayette, booked to sail from -New York, August 26th, 1916, at 3 P. M., destination, the French Port -Bordeaux. - -I reached New York Friday morning, August 25th, and immediately set -about getting my passport properly vised by the French Consul. This was -accomplished with less difficulty than one would imagine and the -precious document finally made ready. - -A luncheon was given the Commission at the Hotel Biltmore at noon by Mr. -E. M. Herr, which gave the members their first opportunity to become -somewhat acquainted. Addresses were made by Mr. Herr and others -connected with the launching of the enterprise. We were told to be -neutral, and this was emphasized by the chairman from the day of sailing -until the journey was over. I received this admonition with a decided -mental reservation. It impressed me as being incongruous and entirely -out of place for a delegation of Americans to plan a visit to France and -not be in accord with that sorely stricken people. It occurred to me -also, then and there, that if the Commission expected to accomplish its -object it would be necessary to show a genuine sympathy with the Allied -cause, and I acted on this theory during the entire journey. A majority -of the members cherished the same sentiments, which most of them managed -to conceal with more or less success. - -Arriving at the dock of the Compagne General Transatlantique, soon after -noon on Saturday, August 26th, an inspection of the luggage was made. -This was a tedious and thorough process, requiring the unpacking and -repacking of all the contents of the trunks and valises, thereby -insuring the absence of dynamite, bombs and other destructive material. -Numerous devoted friends were on hand to say good bye and "bon voyage", -but they were permitted only on the dock. - -Passports were carefully examined by a group of inspectors and the -voyagers were permitted to go on board the waiting steamer. - -The members of the Commission were next grouped together, photographed -and motion-pictured, thus beginning the publicity considered necessary -for the success of the enterprise. - -The departure of the Lafayette was a stirring affair. Promptly at three -o'clock P. M. the vessel moved away from her moorings, amidst the din of -the band, the waving of flags, the whir of the movie machine, the -blowing of whistles and the cheers of friends of the passengers. - -Soon after sailing the members of the Commission were formally -introduced to each other and, strange to relate, with but a single -exception, no two of the party had ever met before beginning the -journey. - -It was discovered that several of the commissioners--myself not among -the number, spoke excellent French. This proved a great advantage to the -French-speaking members during the journey and, incidentally, to the -members who understood English only. - -Among the passengers aboard and attached to the Commission was Mr. -Harrison Reeves, a noted war correspondent, formerly connected with The -New York Sun. He had been several times at the Front in France in a -representative capacity, had lived a number of years in France, spoke -and wrote the French language fluently and has a fine personality. His -presence was much appreciated, his knowledge of recent events in France -and his large acquaintance with men of affairs proving invaluable to the -commissioners. - -On Monday, August 28th, a meeting of the Commissioners was called for -organization and consultation. At this meeting various committees were -agreed upon and appointed by the chairman. It was also arranged that -daily sessions were to be held and the work of the commission laid out -so far as possible in advance. - -The chairman had prepared an address outlining the duties of the -Commission, which is here reproduced. - -* * * - -Aboard Steamship "Lafayette" -En-route to France, - -August 28th, 1916. - -To the Members of the -American Industrial Commission to France. - -Gentlemen: - -We are bound on an errand of constructive friendship. Through the -encouragement of the authorities of France and the public spirit of -American business men, we are enabled to go on this mission of good -will and service. - -France, in her griefs and her joys, is always a land of -inspiration; she is the classic creator and promoter of the arts -which make for civilization. In many ways American life is the -richer because France exists. - -What greater service can a representative company of thinking -Americans render to their land than to visit and touch at first -hand the sources of so much that is valuable to the world, and to -carry home lessons and messages which may easily be potent in -forming stronger ties in the old time intimate relationship between -our country and France. - -Primarily, we go, then, to learn in meeting our oversea friends -face to face, and, if our errand succeeds, to be of any service -possible. The great question then becomes: how can we serve best? -By keeping our eyes, ears, minds and spirits open and alert to the -facts and the possibilities founded on such facts which unfold -before us in the course of our visit. Our trip has been announced -as an investigation or survey of the industrial situation in -France. - -Our mission appears to be to examine the present economic life and -activities in France, and, in a study of such life as we find it, -endeavor to ascertain what the future is likely to bring forth for -industrial France. - -It is obvious that an intelligent examination of the rich economic -development of France must yield valuable byproducts of observation -and instruction. The human values in this economic structure are of -fundamental importance; civil, social and general economic progress -proceeding from the French economic effort will be of wide interest -to us. - -Undoubtedly in the coming years France will make extraordinary -strides in industrial progress. She is planning--indeed has already -under way, many projects of manufacture, transportation, housing, -labor-conservation and municipal life; projects of deep interest -and importance to every American business man and citizen. It may -be our special privilege to be taken behind the scenes of this -tremendous expansion, see some of the beginnings and, if we are -fortunate, to make such contribution as France may desire from the -good will, experience and certain peculiar knowledge we can offer -for her use in any way that may enable her to attain the end she -seeks. - -In this commission we represent something more than a body of men -who have been selected because of special distinction in fields of -their own. Each commissioner touches large circles of interest and -capacity. If the opportunity comes to us to indicate to French -business up-builders how to come into sympathetic working relations -with the enterprise and progressive affairs of our own country, we -shall achieve the high purpose of our Commission. - -(Signed) W. W. NICHOLS, - -Chairman of the Commission. - -* * * - -Before leaving New York a handsome booklet had been prepared and -printed. The brochure contained the names of the commissioners, their -public records, halftone portraits and a carefully prepared statement of -the objects of the expedition. Twenty-five hundred copies were printed -and were to be delivered on board the Lafayette by the printer. After -sailing, it was discovered by a thorough search that the much needed -booklets were not on board. These documents were for distribution after -our arrival in France and were sorely missed. - -Subsequently the booklet was produced in Paris, but in somewhat -different form, and it was near the end of the journey before the -duplicate copies were ready for distribution. The loss of the American -made edition was a serious handicap. - -A word or two about the personnel of the Commission. Mr. Nichols, the -chairman, is a man about sixty with a grave, clerical appearance, -formerly a professor or teacher and at one time superintendent of the -Chicago Telephone Company. A man of various business experiences, at -present connected with the Allis Chalmers Company in its New York -office. He is excessively cautious and delivered a daily lecture on -neutrality, fearing evidently that some of the members might break away -from his idea of being strictly neutral and thus thwart or defeat the -objects of the Commission. Mr. Nichols is thoroughly honest and -conscientious; he had the success of the venture very much at heart and -labored from his viewpoint to that end, priding himself in his broken -French. - -Mr. John R. MacArthur was a member of the Philippine Commission, is a -fine French scholar, a ready conversationalist in both English and -French, and has a keen sense of humor. He was a constant help to the -non-French speaking members of the Commission. - -Dr. Mailloux is an electrical engineer of established reputation and -large experience. He had been in previous commissions to all parts of -the world; a thorough French scholar, he had lived many years in France -and had done much work for the French Government. His knowledge of the -French people was invaluable to some of his fellow commissioners but was -not utilized to its full extent. - -Mr. Edward A. Warren, of Boston, represented the textile industry and is -well posted in that line. He was the modest man of the commission, -rarely asserting himself and deferring too much to the views of his -companions. He is possessed of rare good common sense, but, as stated, -kept himself too much in the background, thereby lessening his influence -in the work of the commission. - -Mr. James A. Sague, at one time vice-president of The American -Locomotive Company; is a technically educated man, genial and -companionable, and was a useful personage on the commission. - -Mr. A. B. Farquhar, is a real veteran of the Civil War, nearly eighty -years of age but possessing remarkable physical vigor. He was the -friend of Lincoln, heard the Gettysburg address delivered, saved his -town (York, Pennsylvania) from destruction by the Confederates, and had -much to do with the reconstruction period after the War. He labored -under the difficulty of defective eyesight, this somewhat impairing his -usefulness on the Commission. - -Mr. N. B. Hoggson, a gentleman of infinite jest, genial and persuasive; -a great mixer and constant worker, proved a very useful member of the -commission in diving after facts and making notes thereof. - -Mr. Geo. B. Ford, a well known architect of the firm of Geo. B. Post & -Company, New York, was a rather quiet undemonstrative member, but a -worker and investigator in his particular line. His observations and -recommendations should have great weight in the work reconstructing and -rebuilding the destroyed portions of France. - -Mr. F. J. LeMaistre, a chemical engineer, quite scientific; not -particularly unselfish in his dealings with his fellow commissioners, -was nevertheless a useful member of the commission, contributing much to -its success. He is connected with the duPont Powder Company in an -important capacity. His chemical knowledge came into good play in the -journeyings of the Commission. - -Mr. C. G. Pfeiffer was, physically, the giant of the Commission. An -exporter and importer, a splendid French scholar, utilized on all -occasions when a knowledge of French was needed; a hard, conscientious -worker, quite close to the chairman and of decided use to the head of -the Commission from start to finish--he frequently steered the ship from -shallow shoals and dangerous rapids. - -Mr. E. V. Douglass, the efficient secretary of the Commission, is -entitled to much commendation. His work was heavy and unending. To look -after a body of men, many of whom he had never previously met; to deal -with their idiosyncrasies and at times somewhat unreasonable demands, -and come through with success, was no mean task. Mr. Douglass lived in -France and had a wide acquaintance. His knowledge of the French language -was of very great service. I think all members of the Commission will -unite in saying; "Well done good and faithful servant." - -Mr. Emile Garden, the French secretary of the Commission, was very -helpful to Mr. Douglass as well as to the chairman. - -Mr. Harrison Reeves, a well known writer and newspaper correspondent, -had special charge of the publicity work of the Commission and was -present and took part in all the meetings of the Commissioners, a -trusted attache of the enterprise. - -Monsieur Henri Pierre Roche, a French soldier, on leave of absence, one -of the editors of the Paris Temps, was also a valuable attache. He -accompanied the commission on its travels and returned with the -commissioners to America for the express purpose of translating into -French, for final distribution in France, the report of the Commission. - -Our first news from home came by wireless on Tuesday, August 29th. It -disclosed that Germany was reaching out for Rumania. We also got more or -less news about the railroad troubles. - -At one of our meetings Mr. Nichols presented a letter which Governor -Herrick had written to him and which proved to be quite useful. We -found, wherever we travelled abroad, that the name of Governor Herrick -was a household word. This letter is reproduced as follows:-- - -* * * - -August 24th, 1916. - -Mr. W. W. Nichols, -The American Manufacturers' Export Association, -50 Church St., New York, N. Y. - -My dear Mr. Nichols:-- - -It gives me great pleasure to take advantage of your kind -invitation to send by the American Industrial Commission of the -American Manufacturers' Export Association, a message to Industrial -France. - -France has met in a way that evokes the admiration of the whole -world, even of her enemies, the recurring emergencies of this -greatest of wars. The patriotic self-sacrifice, the valor, the -uncomplaining endurance, the ingenuity which the French people have -shown during these two years of war reveal what is in truth the -"birth of a new nation". To an extent which scarcely seemed -possible, France has discovered within herself the resources of -men and materials with which to meet the demands of the struggle. - -Europe has learned many important lessons, not only in military -science but also in industrial efficiency, since 1914. She has much -to impart to the United States in these matters. Yet such has been -the wide-spread destruction of men and property that France, and -indeed all Europe, must needs call upon other countries after the -war for assistance in rehabilitating her industrial and commercial -life. France will need to draw upon our stores of food until all -her fields are again producing; she will need our materials for -reconstruction where war has brought waste and desolation; she will -need our machines and implements to carry on the manifold pursuits -of agriculture, manufacturing and commerce. To France, as to all -the countries where war is causing destruction, America opens her -vast stores of goods. - -The American Industrial Commission will be doing service not only -to Europe and to America but to all humanity, if it can discover -the ways by which the wealth that nature has so lavishly showered -upon the New World, may be most effectively poured out for the -restoration of the Old World. - -Very sincerely yours, -(Signed) MYRON T. HERRICK. - -* * * - -The time on the boat was largely occupied in meetings of the -commissioners and the formulation of plans for the work in hand; -committees were appointed and a great deal of work done. - -Among the various discussions, the subject of people living to a great -age in Bulgaria was brought up. Specific instances were noted; one, a -pair of Bulgarian twins both of whom lived to be one hundred and twenty -years of age and both died on the same date. It was suggested that the -two oldest members of the Commission, Mr. Farquhar and myself, should -emigrate to Bulgaria and take a fresh start. - -The Lafayette had, mounted on its stern, one of the favorite French guns -known as a 75-millimeter. The captain told us he had orders to fire on -the Deutschland if the submarine happened to turn up. The first officer, -under instruction from the captain, showed the operation of the gun to -the commissioners. This was very interesting; everything was done except -to fire off the gun; all the maneuvers were gone through and we -discovered on the lower deck enough shells to fight a good sized battle. - -On Saturday, previous to landing, a bazaar was held on the boat for the -benefit of the French hospitals. This was a very successful affair; -contributions were made or supposed to be made by all the passengers. -Among other things, I donated a quart bottle of champagne. This was sold -at auction, the first bid was one dollar, made with the understanding -that the last bid was to be no higher, but was to get the champagne. -These bids continued until the bottle finally brought seventy-five -dollars. It turned out to be a very good article with all that. - -We were also informed before entering port that we were protected by two -submarine destroyers. - -[Illustration: Autograph Signatures of the Commission.] - -We discovered on arising, Sunday morning, September 3rd, that we were in -the Bay of Biscay and two cruisers were circling around and gradually -escorting us into the port of Bordeaux. We were told subsequently that -the wireless apparatus has been disconnected and we had been chased by a -submarine. - -The first land seen was the shore of Spain, the course of the vessel -having been diverted on account of pursuit by the submarine. At four P. -M. on Sunday a commission from Bordeaux came out in a tug boat to meet -us. This delegation consisted of the prefect of Bordeaux district, the -mayor of the city and other notables. They boarded the boat and we -entertained them with a dinner party. We reached the Bordeaux dock about -ten o'clock on Sunday evening, but did not land until the following -morning. - - - - -III. - -BORDEAUX AND PARIS - - -Upon going ashore, we discovered on the docks a number of stalwart -laborers. We wondered why they were not in the army, but were told they -were Spaniards. The docks were covered with motor trucks from Cleveland, -piles of copper bars, and also very large quantities of munitions and -barbed wire made by The Youngstown Sheet & Tube Company and the American -Steel & Wire Company. We also saw on the docks steel bars furnished by -our own Brier Hill Steel Company. - -We were first impressed by the very large number of women employed. We -visited several telegraph offices and all were "manned" exclusively by -women. We also saw women driving large army trucks and milk carts, and -women selling newspapers, some of them anywhere from seventy to eighty -years of age. Newsboys are apparently unknown in France. - -We were given a reception by the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce, and quite -an address was delivered by the president. - -We then visited the docks, which are extensive. The improvements -contemplated will make Bordeaux one of the great world ports. In going -about the streets we were struck by the number of women in mourning; in -fact I can hardly recall any women, except the servants in the hotel, -who were not in mourning. The shop windows were filled with mourning -goods and people passing on the streets were either women in mourning or -soldiers home on leave of absence, many of them crippled. - -We were next taken to the prison camp where the prisoners of war were -held. We happened to reach it when the prisoners were having a siesta. -There were about four thousand in the camp, some hired out to -contractors. We talked to some of these contractors, who in turn had -talked with the prisoners, and were told that a great many of them were -such voluntarily; that is to say, they were very glad to surrender when -the opportunity presented. The prisoners were mostly Germans, but there -were some Austrians and a few Bavarians. The French people never speak -of them as Germans; they always call them "Boches", which, rendered in -English, means vandal. They were fat and healthy and apparently -contented. - -[Illustration: Grand Theatre, Bordeaux. Closed until the War Ends.] - -In the evening at Bordeaux a banquet was given in honor of Monsieur -Gaston Doumergue, Minister of Colonies. All the commissioners were -invited. On my left was Monsieur Etienne Hugard, Vice-president of the -Chamber of Commerce and a soldier who had been in battle within a week -previous. On my right sat Monsieur G. Chastenet, Senateur de la Gironde. -Very choice wines were served and the champagne was reserved for the -last. There was a speech by the Mayor and a response by the Minister of -Colonies. We were given information as we went along and some of this I -will record. We were told that a great many submarines had been captured -by the French in nets. The popular impression is that when captured the -submarines are left under water six or seven days, then brought up to -the surface and the bodies of the officers and seamen, who in the -meantime have died, are either burned or buried. The submarine is then -manned by a French crew and thus turned into the French service. - -We made some inquiries in regard to the labor situation and we were -informed that before the war a common laborer received four francs per -day, about eighty cents of our money, and that they are now receiving -five francs. The women received two francs before the war and they are -now receiving three. There are no labor unions in Bordeaux or in the -vicinity. - -We had here our first visit from newspaper correspondents. A number of -important Paris papers were represented, with the New York Herald, the -Chicago Tribune and other leading American papers. We met the general of -the Gironde and the marine official. We were told that at any of these -functions we were not to mention the names of the officials to whom we -were introduced, and this enabled us to talk quite freely. One of the -generals whom I met at this banquet said that the war would end in -December, 1917. - -On Tuesday, September 5th, the Bordeaux Fair was dedicated. The -commission was invited and we took part in the exercises. These fairs -are an annual event in many parts of France. There is a very large -theatre in Bordeaux, which has not been opened since the war. We were -given an invitation to enter it. It is certainly finer than any theatre -I had seen previously. - -We were then taken to the celebrated wine vaults of Bordeaux, owned by -J. Calvert & Co. and Bardin & Gustier. Some of these wines date back to -the early part of the last century and the vintages are all the way from -five to ninety years old. There were sixty thousand casks of wine stored -and about ten million bottles of champagne. The money value of the -stocks is very large. We were told that America was one of the best -customers for these high grade wines. - -In the evening we attended a reception to the Minister of Colonies at -Ville de Bordeaux. This was a very enjoyable affair and we met some -noted French people. - -Wednesday, September 6th, was the birthday of Lafayette. We had been -invited by the American Chamber of Commerce to assist in their -celebration at Paris, but were unable to reach that city in time. - -Instead of going to Paris on this date we visited the Chateau Margaux, -built in 1780. We were shown through the private vaults. We met the -Duchess, a most charming personage, a grandmother at the age of -thirty-five, a very plain, unassuming lady. I supposed up to the time I -was introduced to her that she was a newspaper correspondent. During the -tour through these private vaults, the guide discoursed on the making of -wine, from the planting of the vines to the bottling and selling -process. This was all very interesting. - -The different sized bottles of wine were described as follows: half -pints for sick rooms, pints, and then quarts, with all of which we were -familiar. He then told us of the magnum, holding two quarts; the -Jereboam, holding three quarts, the imperial, holding five quarts, and -the Nebuchadnezzar, holding the Lord only knows how many quarts--pretty -nearly as big as a barrel. - -In the port of Bordeaux were a great many neutral boats. On the sides of -these boats in very large letters, appeared the names of the boats and -the flag of the particular country, also the name of the country. We saw -vessels from Italy, Greece, Denmark, Sweden, Norway and Holland. We were -told that no nation at the beginning was prepared for war except -Germany. It seemed to be the unanimous opinion that the war would last -at least one year longer. - -Monsieur Gustier, president of the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce, -departed at one o'clock for Paris in a de luxe car. This car was the one -usually occupied by President Poincaire and known as the president's -car. - -Before departing we were given a noonday luncheon at the Hotel Terminal -by the "Committee General Franco-American Society." - -We were now for the first time told that we were being entertained by -the French government, through its different chambers of commerce. On -the way, two of the general officers of the railroad company boarded the -train. - -We noticed on passing through the country, that all the people working -on the farms were either old men, women or children, the young men all -being in the army. - -One of the things, earnestly desired by the French people is to increase -the birthrate. A bonus system has been proposed as well as all sorts of -plans for increasing the size of families. - -We learned here that four million men and women in France were engaged -in the wine industry. - -We arrived in Paris at 10:30, September 6th. The only light visible was -the moon. The Hotel de Crillon, formerly a castle occupied by the French -nobility and transformed into a very comfortable and aristocratic hotel, -was our stopping place. - -Early on Thursday morning, September 7th, I paid my first visit to the -American Ambulance. I met Dr. Metcalf, a former Youngstown physician. He -has charge of the New York and the Frank H. Mason wards. At the time we -were there six hundred soldiers were under treatment. Deaths run about -two per cent. - -This was my first visit to an army hospital and the impression will -never be forgotten. There were men in all different stages of wounds, -some of them convalescent; others on the dividing line; with others the -treatment was just starting. This American Ambulance is considered the -best managed hospital in all France. General Frank H. Mason, who had -been consul general and in the consular service more than thirty years, -had charge of it up to the time of his death. He was succeeded by -Monsieur Benet. It is a thorough business organization. - -On this same day I visited Mrs. Frank H. Mason, the venerable widow of -General Mason. We drove out together and I again visited the Ambulance -in her company. She has been active in benevolent work for many years -and was greeted everywhere with signs of affection. She took great pride -in the ward named for her husband. In this ward most of the soldiers -under treatment are officers. - -I also met at the Ambulance Major Kipling, the head of the "flying -corps". They have there about a dozen military ambulances that go to the -front and bring back the wounded. Over seven thousand have been brought -in since March. Two trips are made daily. - -I also met at the Ambulance Mrs. Benet, a society woman, but in nurse's -garb and actively at work. - -[Illustration: Miniature French Flag carried by the Author through -France. The Waving of this Flag by an American Aroused much -Enthusiasm.] - -I next visited the Church of the Holy Trinity. This is the American -church in Paris. It was built in 1842 and is now in charge of Dr. -Watson, well known to all Americans who visit Paris. In the urn room are -the remains of General Mason and his mother-in-law, Mrs. Judge Birchard. -Her husband was in partnership with the late Governor Tod, and it was in -Judge Birchard's office that Governor Tod studied law. - -On Friday, September 8th, the commission was given a reception by the -Association Nationale De Expansion Economique and the Paris Chamber of -Commerce, jointly. There was an animated discussion at this luncheon -with members of the Paris Chamber of Commerce, all of it in French. Some -of the commissioners got badly tangled up, but we got through by the aid -of our French-speaking commissioners and matters were pretty well -straightened out. - -We were given a luncheon on this same day by the Paris Chamber of -Commerce at the Armenonville. We met at this luncheon a great many Paris -notables, many of them members of the French parliament, and others -prominent in business and finance. - -In the evening I visited the Rejane Theatre and saw some wonderful -moving pictures, taken by means of periscopes; they showed the inside of -the trenches, prisoners being taken, big guns firing, one mine -explosion, the visit of King George and also of King Albert of Belgium; -in fact it was the representation of a real battle and most thrilling. - -On Saturday, September 9th, quite to the surprise of many of the -commissioners, we were invited to inspect a noted dressmaking -establishment, the Callot Saurs, otherwise the Callot Sisters, at No. 11 -Avenue Marigon. We could hardly understand what this visit to the -dressmakers had to do with our investigating French industrial -establishments, but light was thrown on the subject when we learned that -these sisters had three thousand employees, principally women. I made -the remark that I supposed Worth was the French authority on women's -gowns, but was told that Worth was a back number. It was a remarkable -experience; we were taken into a large room and for a period of more -than two hours were shown marvelous creations in the way of women's -gowns. It really looked like a play. There were some lightning changes. -We timed some of the models and they changed their entire costumes in -less than three minutes. It goes without saying that some of the -costumes did not cover enough of the models to require very much time -for a change. It was really quite an experience, and some of the -commissioners wondered if we could not go back again the next day. - -In the evening we were invited to the aviation camp in the suburbs of -Paris. This is a school and turns out three hundred aviators monthly. -We were given a special exhibition and saw as many as thirty of the -aeroplanes go through maneuvers. I was struck by the deafening noise -made when the machines arose. One accident occurred while we were there; -a machine got out of order and fell to the ground, seriously injuring -two of the aviators in charge. The average is one death daily. During -the maneuvers a real war call came from the front and four of the -largest machines started off. These aeroplanes travel at the rate of -over one hundred miles an hour and can reach the front in from twelve to -fifteen minutes from Paris. Since these aviators have been guarding -Paris, the Germans have given up sending their machines over that city. -The plant at the camp manufactures fifty aeroplanes daily. - -After this notable aviation exhibition, we called on Robert Bliss, -Charge de'affaires at the American Embassy, Mr. Sharp being absent. - -On this day we had our first experience in government automobiles. Five -military automobiles were placed at our disposal with soldiers for -chauffeurs, two in charge of each machine. These automobiles are large -and powerful and hold seven persons. In them we saw many interesting -sights about Paris and in that section of France, only a few of which -may be described. - - - - -IV. - -MEETING ENGLAND'S PREMIER - - -On Sunday, September 10th, I had the good fortune to meet Lloyd George. -He had been paying a visit to General Joffre, and was registered at the -same hotel as the Commission. Through his secretary, and through the -persistence of some of the commissioners, arrangements were made to meet -this celebrated man. I happened to be the first one of the commissioners -introduced. During my youthful days, while a clerk in a company store at -Niles, Ohio, I had learned some Welsh, and in this language I greeted -Lloyd George. He seemed surprised and was kind enough to remark "That is -very good Welsh". This put me in close touch with him and I had quite a -conversation. He fired questions quite rapidly. He asked me what -business I was in and at the same time what chances Hughes had for being -elected. I told him I had been in the steel business for a great many -years, and that I was a delegate to the convention which nominated -Hughes. I told him I had heard Mr. Hughes' father preach at Mineral -Ridge, a suburb of Niles. All the other commissioners were introduced. -During the interview, Mr. George made this remark: - -"I hope your mission will be successful and help France; I hope you -can also help England, and when we have settled our little -difficulties, help Germany. The world is big enough for us all." - -Mr. George spoke very kindly to me of both Hughes and Roosevelt, and at -the close of the interview said with earnestness: - -"We are fighting the battle for all civilization. We are fighting -for you as well as for ourselves, and you are deeply interested." - -I had the impression that the famous Englishman was of large stature, -but was mistaken. He is a man about five feet, five inches tall, of -slender build, with keen, penetrating eye and somewhat nervous manner; -he is certainly one of the great men of the world. - -In the afternoon with Dr. Mailloux, a member of the Commission, I paid a -visit to General Gosselin, formerly chief of munitions, who had been in -America on business for the French Government. He spoke very highly of -the steel material furnished by the various American manufacturing -plants, and said it would have been impossible for the French to succeed -as they had without this help. He urged the shipping of steel on -contracts with all possible dispatch. General Gosselin is an important -personage, quiet and modest. I was told he had already been of great -service to his country. - -[Illustration: Lloyd George, Who Says "England is Fighting a Battle for -Civilization."] - -In the evening we visited "Le Phare de France," or "The Light House of -France." This is one of the noblest of the many humane institutions -being maintained in France by American means. It is under the management -of Miss Winifred Holt, who represents the New York Association for the -Blind, and is doing an angel's work among the men blinded in battle, of -whom there are more in this war than in any other in history, owing to -the many new methods employed and the manner in which battles are -fought. Miss Holt is known as "Keeper of the Light House," and is much -beloved in France. She is a most engaging young woman and deserves all -the kind things said about her by the admiring French. Miss Holt is ably -assisted by Miss Cleveland, the charming daughter of the late President -Cleveland. - -This institution is under the direct patronage of the President of -France and a committee composed of the highest officials of that -country, although the funds to support it are contributed by wealthy -Americans, prominent among whom are the Crockers, of San Francisco. In -it the men whose sight has been destroyed are being taught useful -occupations and cheered with the hope that they will be able to earn a -living. They are also taught to read letters for the blind and thus some -of the everlasting darkness to which they had been condemned by the -horrors of war is dispelled. It is said that many men who could with -difficulty be kept from committing suicide in their despair have become -cheerful since entering this institution. - -[Illustration: Miss Winifred Holt, "Keeper of the Light House of -France."] - -On Monday we visited the famous china establishment Sevres. This is one -of the oldest works of the kind in France and its product is known -everywhere. The plant has now been taken over by the government and used -for making gas containers and other accessories used by the army. - -Following the visit to Sevres we were entertained in Paris at luncheon -by the Circle Republican. On my right sat David Mennet, President of the -Paris Chamber of Commerce; on my left sat Monsieur Laffere, Deputy -Minister of Labor. Much valuable information was obtained from both of -these gentlemen, but it was not of a nature to be recorded. - -In the afternoon we visited the famous Renault automobile plant. This -plant has been taken over by the government and is employed in making -war materials, automobile trucks, automobiles for military use and -munitions. The plant employs twelve thousand men and five thousand -women. They are engaged twelve hours daily, with one hour off at noon -for luncheon. This was our first visit to a munition plant and we were -cautioned to be careful in what we might record concerning what we saw. -I was struck by the earnestness of the workmen; the expression on their -countenances could be universally interpreted, "We are working for -France". After this visit to the Renault plant we inspected the plant of -Andre Citroon, a Hollander, but a generalle in Paris. He manufactures -munitions only, employing seven thousand, five hundred women and -twenty-five hundred men. In both of these plants we saw piles of steel -made in America and labeled "Youngstown", "Pittsburgh", "Harrisburg" or -"Cleveland". - -In the evening we were given a banquet by the American Chamber of -Commerce at the Hotel Palais d'Orsay. On my right sat Consul General -Thackara, whom I had known for a great many years. His wife was a -daughter of the late General Sherman, who said, it will be remembered, -"War is Hell". In view of what we saw later I think he was quite right. -On my left was First Secretary of Legation, American Embassy, Arthur -Hugh Frazier. - -The Herald gives an account of this banquet as follows: - -Between ninety and a hundred members of the American colony in -Paris met at the Hotel Palais d'Orsay yesterday evening at a -banquet given by the American Chamber of Commerce for the -delegation of the American Manufacturers' Export Association, which -has just arrived in France. - -The large dining-hall of the hotel was tastefully decorated with -roses, carnations and dahlias, and hardly a seat was vacant when -dinner was served, about eight o'clock. - -After an excellent dinner, which began with "Tortue clair" and went on -by easy stages from "Langouste muscovite" and an excellent "Baron de -Pauillac" to the "Parfait glace Palais d'Orsay", and dessert, Judge -Walter V. R. Berry, Vice-president of the Chamber of Commerce in Paris, -and acting as chairman in the absence of the president, Mr. Percy -Peixotto, addressed the company, as follows: - -We have all heard so often about the caravels of Columbus and about -the Mayflower that, perhaps a hundred years from now, in a -brand-new Palais d'Orsay Hotel, an eloquent member of the Chamber -of Commerce will refer to nineteen hundred and sixteen as the year -in which the good ship Lafayette brought over for the first time a -great American Industrial Commission to explore Darkest France. - -Anyone who views with a philosophic mind the tremendous cataclysm -that is convulsing the world must reach this conclusion: that its -results will be more profound, more far-reaching, more epoch-making -than were the results of the Revolution of 1789. - -Where, under the new conditions, will the United States find -itself? - -It is a difficult problem to solve; but if one cannot answer, it -will be at least a step forward to put the right questions. -Gentlemen of the Commission, it is for you, on your return to -America, to formulate these questions. - -Heretofore it has been impossible to get together in Europe a -delegation of Americans, each one of whom was ready to sink his -private interests. This is the first time that an American -Commission has come abroad, forgetting the individual, looking -only to the welfare of the State. - -Gentlemen, I congratulate you on your public spirit and your -patriotism. I congratulate you, too, on your opportunity, the -magnificent opportunity of bringing home to the American people the -urgent necessities that confront them. - -After the sustained applause had subsided Mr. W. W. Nichols gave a brief -account of the objects for which the American Industrial Commission came -to France. He referred to the impetus which had been given to the whole -idea by M. Damour, the French deputy and leader of the French Commission -which recently visited the United States, and declared that the -representatives of French and American manufacturers and industries -might help mutually in solving the industrial problem which affected the -sister republics. "Our aim," said Mr. Nichols, "is reciprocity in -personal conduct and co-operation which will lead to the solution of -many minor difficulties. Our possibilities are enormous." - -Mr. Nichols concluded with an expression of thanks for the welcome which -the Commission had received in France and an acknowledgment of the -services which the American Chamber had rendered both to France and to -the United States. - -On Tuesday we visited the school for maimed soldiers in Paris. At this -place the men who are unable to return to the front are taught all -kinds of trades--barbering, soap-making, shoe making, etc. - -On Wednesday, September 13th the Commission made a trip to Rouen. - -Women in knitting mills there earn four francs daily, working eleven -hours; in the webbing mills they earn five francs daily, working eleven -hours. There are no unions. A great deal of the product had been -marketed in Germany but this market was lost. At Rouen we saw a large -British steamer loaded with soldiers enroute to the front. They saluted -the American flag. The harbor was full of shipping. The boats draw -twenty feet of water. - -I met J. M. Belin, a manufacturer of tubes used in flying machines. I -had a very interesting talk with Monsieur Belin. He told me there were -ten thousand German soldiers being killed daily on all the fronts and -that seventy per cent of the iron and coal formerly belonging to France -was now in the hands of the Germans. - -On Thursday, September 14th, we left Paris for Limoges, arriving there -at five P.M. We were given a reception by the mayor of the town and the -president of the Chamber of Commerce at the Chamber of Commerce Rooms. -We were driven through the town, across the River Vienne. We saw an -ancient Roman bridge, said to be more than two thousand years old. - -[Illustration: Ancient Bridge at Limoges--Built by the Romans Two -Thousand Years Ago and Still in Use.] - -Also a very old cathedral. A very interesting sight, which I had seen in -oil paintings, was that of women washing on the banks of the river. The -river was lined for nearly a mile with women all occupied in this useful -way. - -Limoges is the center of the porcelain industry in France. Its exports -to the United States are very large. The consul at Limoges was -instructed to do all possible to aid the Commission, and, per contra, -the Consul at Rouen was instructed not to accept any invitations or -recognize the Commission in an official way. - -We visited the Martin china works and saw a veritable "Bull in a china -shop", that is to say, there was a pair of bullocks hitched to a wagon -going through the warehouse while we were there. - -We visited the celebrated Haviland plant at Limoges, and met Geo. -Haviland, who is well known in America. With him we had quite a -discussion regarding the manufacturers at Limoges increasing their -output of low grade wares. - -At noon on this day we had a conference with the Chamber of Commerce of -Limoges. At this conference I was permitted to say a few words, which -were translated for the audience as follows: - -Gentlemen, I have been criticised by my fellow Commissioners for -not taking part in the discussions. I speak English only, and have -hesitated to enter these arguments. It seems to me, though, that -instead of trying to enter on the increase of your common product, -such as any china manufacturer in the United States can make, you -should increase the production of your high grade product. There -are high grade porcelains made in Austria and a lot of this comes -to us from Germany. Your product is known all over the world--the -name "Haviland" is a household word. In my opinion if your -manufacturers here at Limoges went into the production of the -common qualities of porcelain, it would lower your reputation. - -My recommendation, therefore, is that if possible you increase the -production of the artistic porcelains. - -In the evening a banquet was given us at the Hotel Rue de Lu Paix. On my -right was Eugene L. Belisle, American Consul, and on my left was Leon -Pinton, Vice-president of the Chamber of Commerce. - -The banquet table was a beautiful sight. French and American flags were -entwined. Speeches were made by members of the Chamber of Commerce and -responses by Mr. Nichols in broken French. I had a most interesting talk -with Consul Belisle. He said that one year ago the French would have -made a much better settlement of the war than today. They are now better -prepared and would demand the return of territory, including Alsace -Lorraine, the French people being educated up to this point. He said -also that he had come in contact with German prisoners and they were -discouraged and would be glad to surrender. - -We met at this banquet General Comby, district commander of the twelfth -regiment. - -Dr. Mailloux and Mr. MacArthur had a very interesting talk with General -Comby, Thursday night after the banquet was over. General Comby was in -active service at the front after the opening of the war. He described -to us particularly what he had seen of warfare at the time of the battle -of the Marne. He said it was called the battle of the Marne because of -the lack of any other name to give it, but the battle took place over a -period of some thirty odd days and covered a considerable region, much -of which was far away from the Marne. He informed us that the fresh -troops who have not before experienced the severity of battle go into a -desperate fight with the greatest valor and heroism; that after troops -have seen a long session of fighting, and have been through the -hardships of many engagements they lose, and he thinks it is natural -they should lose, much of the spirit that accompanies them in their -first engagements. - -He told us of the very severe losses that were suffered in these first -actions of the war; greater than at any other time. Mr. MacArthur -understood him to regard this so-called Battle of the Marne as perhaps -the bloodiest and most terrible of all battles in history. He informed -us that it was not one single battle, but a succession of almost -continuous struggles, day and night, over a period of three or four -weeks. - -General Comby had under his immediate command 18,000 troops, of whom he -lost 13,500 in these engagements. He said, however, that in spite of -all these losses, he had never found himself nor his troops in the -position of defeat; that defeat is largely a matter of sentiment and -valor. An army with comparatively slight losses might consider itself -defeated if it chose to do so. An army of troops like some of those he -had could be cut almost to pieces, and yet, if there was a remnant -sufficient and disposed to come together again, they formed a still -undefeated and effective body. - -The general spoke particularly of a battalion of zouaves that he had, -numbering about 1,000, and which was cut down until there were only 280 -left. Yet they came together undefeated and effective troops. He said -that since the Battle of the Marne the war has taken on a different -character. He considered the German defeat as taking place at and by -reason of this battle. Had they not been checked then, and turned, there -is no telling what the Germans might have done. But they were checked -and turned, which constituted their defeat, and all operations that have -and are now taking place are simply operations to follow up the victory -that was realized at the Marne. - -On Saturday, September 16th, we arrived at Aubusson, the centre of the -tapestry industry of France, as it has been for the past five centuries. - -Aubusson is located in a beautiful country. On our way to that city we -noticed women attending sheep, just as we had seen in pictures by -Millet and other painters. These women, with only a dog as companion, -knit as they tend their flocks. - -We arrived in Aubusson at 10:30 A.M. We were first taken to the town -hall, where there was a general exhibit of the products of the district -on view. I was greatly impressed with a portrait, in tapestry, of -General Joffre, the great French commander, idolized by the French -people and hero of the Battle of the Marne. It did not occur to me at -the moment of examining this tapestry portrait that it might be -purchased; but afterwards, while we were at luncheon, I thought possibly -it might be bought, and asked Monsieur Damour, who sat next to me, what -he thought about it. He expressed the belief that it was not for sale -and would not be permitted to go out of France. He said, however, that -he would make an investigation, and sent his secretary, who came back in -a very short time with the information that the portrait would be sold -to an American only. The price was named and without any further -negotiations I accepted the offer, making only one condition, that it -was not to be duplicated. I had the portrait taken from its frame and -brought it with me, having it retrained upon my arrival home. It is -certainly a beautiful piece of work, as well as unique; no one but an -expert could tell at first glance that it is not a portrait done in oil. -It was copied by one of the greatest tapestry artists in France from -the oil painting made of General Joffre by a noted French artist. - -[Illustration: Tapestry Workers at Aubusson.] - -We visited a number of the manufactories owned by different corporations -and individuals. I was personally impressed by one piece of tapestry -which had been in the making for a period of four years and would -require at least one year longer to complete. It depicted the marriage -of Napoleon and Josephine. This piece is about thirty feet by twenty -feet in size, and contains forty thousand shades of color. It was not -for sale, and we were told it was to be held to take part in a -celebration of the Allied victory in the Champs Elysees. The French -people are so confident of victory that the windows facing the Arc de -Triomphe have already been engaged to view the event. - -We noticed there in the textile factories old women winding yarn, many -of them eighty years of age, but still vigorous and hard at work. A -photograph of a group of young girls was taken by one of the -Commissioners and is reproduced in these pages. - -A little incident occurred at the luncheon before mentioned which is -worthy of record. - -I noticed a coarse looking American flag suspended in the dining room. I -made inquiry of the woman who waited upon us at the table and she said -that she had never seen an American flag, but had read about it and had -reproduced what she thought was a copy from memory. It was made from a -piece of awning containing stripes, with blue stars sewn in. This -waitress said she had worked at night on it and got as near as possible -to her idea of an American flag. While it was not a work of art, it was -a homely representation of the Stars and Stripes and a tribute from an -humble citizen of France to America. - -In our wanderings about Aubusson we came across an old man who said he -was so old that he had forgotten his age. However, in a broken way, he -told of having taken part in the Franco-Prussian war, and remembered -having seen the great Napoleon. Inquiry made of some of the citizens -revealed the fact that his age was supposed to be upwards of one hundred -years. - -We visited a very old church with the distinction of having two bells -which ring simultaneously. - -As we left this historic place it was an inspiring sight. Nearly the -entirely populace was present and gave us any number of cheers as the -military automobiles took their departure. - -At seven P. M. we arrived at Bourboule and had dinner at the Palace -Hotel. We met here Col. Cosby, military attache of the American Embassy -in Paris. This is a watering place and contains a very large -convalescent hospital where soldiers, largely officers, are sent to -finally recuperate before going back to the front. The waters contain -arsenic, are highly medicinal, and known the world over. - -We saw at this place the adopted child of Helen Gould. We also met -another bright youth about eleven years of age, who spoke some English. -He asked one very pertinent question, "Why don't you Americans send your -navy over here to help France?" - -We were served at dinner by an Amazon waitress. Without measuring her -stature, I should say that she was six feet, four inches in height and -formed in proportion. Nevertheless she was very alert and active on her -feet. She waited on the entire Commission without help, quickly and -efficiently. - -The chief decoration was a large American flag in the center of the -table. This was made of flowers and was unique and beautiful. Bourboule -is in a mountainous country and early the next day we were taken to the -top of a mountain, a distance of nearly a mile, on what was termed the -"Funicular Railroad". We were served luncheon at the Hotel de Funicular, -on the top of the mountain, back of the town. The view from this -elevation was wonderful and worth the trip to France. When the war is -over this locality will no doubt be a leading watering place. - -In the afternoon we motored to Clermont-Farrand. We stopped at Mont Dore -and at Royal to see the baths, which are noted for their cure for -asthmatic affections. We were given a reception at both places, and -waited upon by very handsome waitresses wearing most artistic hats. I -tried to secure one of these as a souvenir, but without avail, as I was -told they were made especially for this institution and were of a -special design. - -On this journey we saw many interesting sights. Carts with donkeys -attached, resembled somewhat the jaunting car in Ireland. Wild flowers -were in great abundance and we stopped many times by the wayside to -purchase them from the little girls. We stopped at Salvador Rock and -listened to an echo which was remarkable; standing on the crest of the -rock, tones almost a whisper could be heard reverberating for some time. -The rock was surrounded by trees resembling very much the pine in -Arizona and the Lake Superior region. - -Next we visited a fine old castle, Chateau Miral, and arrived at -Clermont-Farrand at seven P. M. Here we were given a banquet at the -Grand Hotel by the Chamber of Commerce. We met a number of prominent -people, among others Ferdinand Ferryrolles, who manages several hotels -at Monte Carlo. We also met Emmanuel Cheneau, Henri Roche, editor of the -Paris Temps, Etienne Morel and Leon Bernardaud. - -We left Clermont-Farrand early on Monday, in military automobiles for -St. Etienne. - - - - -V. - -THE BIRTHPLACE OF LAFAYETTE - - -The question of visiting the birthplace of the immortal Lafayette came -up at this time, and some of the members insisted on a trip to this -historic spot. The majority carried and we made a detour of nearly one -hundred miles to reach St. George's D'Aurac, near which stands the -stately Chateau Chavagnac, object of our reverent curiosity. At the time -of our visit it was owned by Mr. de Sahame, son of the niece of -Lafayette, bearing the title of Marquis of Lafayette, and residing at -Neuilly, near Paris. We were met by the mayor of the small village, -quite near, and the caretaker of the Chateau, which was in a very good -state of preservation, but not at that time occupied. The prefect of the -district appeared soon and the Commission presented to the ownership of -the Chateau two very beautiful flags, one an American and the other -French, together with a large bouquet of palms and roses. These flags -and the floral offering were placed in the bed where Lafayette was born. -Mr. Nichols, our Chairman, then made the following address: - -In a large sense, this auspicious occasion is the most appropriate -event of our trip, because it brings us closer to that which has -been a constant bond of sympathy between the French and American -people. We are more than happy to stand here in the home of our -Washington's intimate friend, where he spent his days of peace, and -whither he retired when cares of state weighed too heavily upon -him. It is not hard to believe that here also was the birthplace of -his greatest thoughts, the beginnings of his noblest aspirations. - -Lafayette, the apostle of liberty, came to struggling America at -the opportune time, and in ways that every school child at home -knows, cast his lot with ours in that perfect sympathy which -constituted Washington's greatest support. History's record, -complete as it is, cannot account for the countless things -Lafayette did for us, which many times perhaps changed the course -of events in our favor and brought us that freedom of thought, that -liberty of action, which he ever craved. - -When we stop to reflect that it all began here, our souls may well -be moved beyond the mere expression of words. After a century and a -quarter we treasure Lafayette's memory and it grows with an -increasing realization of the merit of the assistance he rendered -us. Our two nations today are the embodiment of the principles he -stood for, perhaps was a great factor in inculcating in the minds -of our ancestors, to be transmitted by inheritance to us. We -rejoice that he lived; that a land like France gave him birth; that -the friendship he began continues to make the world better. - -May we realize the dream ever present with him, to judge from his -actions, which speak more insistent than words, of a mutuality of -our national interests; that hand in hand the two great republics -may together work out their great destinies, together set an -example for the world worthy of its emulation, an example of a -fraternity of purpose and attempt which by its very strength will -compel the better things of life. - -[Illustration: Lafayette's Deathbed, with Commission's Flag and -Flowers.] - -Gentlemen: In reverence to the memory of our great compatriot, let -us devote a moment to silent contemplation of the great thoughts -that inspired the great deeds of our great brother, Lafayette. - -There was a response by the prefect and the mayor of the nearby village. - -This visit was an historical event. I had made up my mind, and so talked -with another member of the Commission, that it would be a fine thing to -purchase this property, endow it with a fund which would keep it always -open as a museum and present it to the French Government. Since our -return to America the property has been acquired by a group of prominent -American men and women, headed by Mrs. William Astor Chanler, for the -same purpose that some of the members of our Commission had in mind, a -most worthy project. This birthplace is known as The Chateau de -Chavagnac-Lafayette. It is the hope of the purchasers to make it "A -French Mount Vernon". - -The Marquis Gilbert de Lafayette was born at the Chateau de Chavagnac, -in the French province of Auvergne, on September 6th, 1757. It is some -four hundred miles from Paris, in southern France. The crowning -architectural feature of this little settlement of some five hundred -souls, it stands, sentinel-like, among the sixty red-tiled roofs of the -village. The little church at which Lafayette worshipped is only a step -from the Chateau gates. - -The original Chateau de Chavagnac dates from the fourteenth century. It -was destroyed by fire in 1701, but was very soon afterward rebuilt from -the original plans. - -It is the purpose of the French Heroes' Fund to make this Chateau in -France a complement to Mount Vernon. In it are to be kept records of -Colonial days, as well as those of the present war. There is to be a -room dedicated to the British; one to the Legion; another to the -American Ambulance and still another to aviation. It is also to be made -a home for orphans and for soldiers who have been disabled. - -After a collation, we visited the reception room, which contains a -number of old-time engravings, facsimiles of the Declaration of -Independence, a bronze bust of Lafayette, a marble bust of Lafayette and -a bronze bust of Franklin. Overhanging the bed in which Lafayette was -born is a fine portrait of Benjamin Franklin. Although Lafayette died in -Paris, the bed in which he died was brought to the Chateau, and we were -shown this also. - -Among other things in the reception room was a large placard with the -heading "North American United States Constitution Explained". There was -also a billiard table which looked as if it had seen much service. - -I have alluded to this visit to the birthplace of Lafayette in a little -address which I made at Besancon, and which will appear later. - -Some photographs of the Commission were taken before leaving. Quite a -large sum was raised among the Commissioners and given to the mayor to -be distributed among the poor of the village. - -Our next objective was LePuy, where we arrived at 4:30 P.M. and had -breakfast, so-called, although the detour to the birthplace of Lafayette -made us about ten hours late. We were met by the prefect, the mayor and -the president of the Chamber of Commerce. We visited a church built on -the top of a rock, the ascent to which was by three hundred -perpendicular steps, two feet wide. It was said that these steps were -built in this way as an opportunity for penance, it being a very hard -operation to climb to the top. Some of our people made the ascent, -myself among the number. When we reached the top we were rewarded by a -magnificent view of the surrounding country. At the highest point is a -statue of the Virgin Mary, made of Russian cannon, recast after capture -by Napoleon. - -While at LePuy we were shown the only spot where the immortal Caesar was -defeated; otherwise his reign was triumphant. - -Leaving LePuy we arrived at St. Etienne at midnight, after a most -perilous ride. A banquet had been planned at St. Etienne, but had been -postponed. On the following day we visited the establishment of the -Giron Brothers, ribbon manufacturers. This establishment dates back to -the very early part of the Nineteenth century, and at present has two -thousand employees, nearly all women. Its trade is largely with the -United States. On account of the labor situation the factory is working -only half time. The men are at war, the women in the munition plants and -factories. Wage earners make four, and not to exceed five, francs per -day and consider themselves well paid. - -[Illustration: Monastery of St. Michael at Le Puy.] - -We also visited the silk manufacturing plant of P. Staron, Jr. We saw -here the most beautiful silks and brocades. Among other fine things were -ribbons in the Fleur de Lis design, the national flower of France. On -account of the war the employees at work were few. - -Here we met Mr. Wm. H. Hunt, American consul and the last appointee of -President McKinley before his untimely death. - -At St. Etienne I went into a barbershop to get a shave, sat down in the -chair, and a youth not over twelve years of age started to lather me. I -supposed, of course, that he was getting me ready for the barber, who -would soon appear; instead of that he proceeded with the work himself. -He spoke a little English, telling me his father was in the army and he -was running the business. He gave me one of the best shaves I received -in France. - -My next experience with the youth of France was with a boy chauffeur. -Our military automobiles had disappeared for the time being and I -engaged a taxicab. - -[Illustration: Silk Tapestry Menu Used at Dinner to the Commission at -St. Etienne.] - -The boy who ran this was not over eleven or twelve years of age, but he -did the work well. - -On the evening of September 19th, we were given a banquet by the Chamber -of Commerce at St. Etienne. It was a very successful affair. I met here -Theodore Laurent, a prominent steel manufacturer whom I had met at -Brussels in 1911, when the American Iron and Steel Institute made its -famous visit to England and the continent. At this banquet we met also -the prefect and other notables. - - - - -VI. - -A GREAT MUNITIONS PLANT - - -Wednesday, September 20th, we left St. Etienne for St. Charmond to visit -the plant at which Mr. Laurent is director general. His company owns -several plants, this being the most important and one of the oldest -manufactories of cannons and munitions in France. We met here Colonel -Rimialho, who is the inventor of the seventy-five-millimeter gun and has -general charge of the artillery and munitions manufactured in France. -The plant at the present time makes only cannon and munitions. There are -no blast furnaces at the works. They use the Siemens-Martin process and -melt about seventy-five to eighty per cent. scrap. They also use a -quantity of vanadium steel imported from America and furnished by the -American Vanadium Company. We were told that France produces five -hundred thousand shells or projectiles daily. This plant turns out -twenty-eight thousand of this number, besides one hundred and twenty -thousand fuses, or detonators. Before the war the works produced one -hundred and twenty thousand annually; they now make this number daily. -They have sixteen thousand employees, five thousand of whom are women. -We saw here a number of Amazonian Junos doing men's work while wearing -leather aprons, and were informed that they were fully as efficient as -men and are paid the same wages. - -We saw at these works a number of the now famous "caterpillars", an -armored car moving on a broad track which it lays down as it goes. This -machine was invented by an American, and I have seen it at work on the -Pacific coast. - -After an examination of the works, we were taken to the suburbs of the -town and a special test of the big guns was made for our benefit, the -firing going to the hill. We were instructed to put cotton in our ears -and keep our mouths open, and faithfully observed this injunction. The -seventy-five millimeter fired twelve shots in thirty-six seconds, by my -watch. The target was brought to us afterwards and we were shown that -the projectiles went straight through without a side dent. We were also -treated to the firing of some of the very large guns, and by the time -this was over I was ready to visit an ear doctor, if there had been one -convenient. - -When this interesting exhibition was ended we were entertained for the -first time in a real French home. Mr. Laurent took us to his home and -gave us a luncheon. We met Mrs. Laurent and two daughters, but the four -sons had joined the colors. Two of them had already lost their lives in -battle. - -We met at this luncheon Sir Thomas Barclay, of London, who has taken an -active part in the humanitarian work of England, with headquarters in -Paris. - -[Illustration: Col. Rimailho with 155-mm. Gun (upper) and Famous 75-mm. -Gun (lower) Perfected by Him.] - -The party reached Lyons at 6:20 P.M. by military automobiles and at once -had a conference with Mayor Heriot. It appeared that there was some -discussion between this official and the president of the Chamber of -Commerce as to who should head the entertaining. We were greatly -impressed with M. Heriot, but he took a night train for Paris and we -were left in the hands of the Chamber of Commerce. We were given a -reception by this body, and spent the night at Lyons. - -On the afternoon of the following day we visited the textile museum. We -also visited the government munitions plant, which was formerly the -Lyons fair, but had been taken over by the government, stripped of -everything and made the most efficient munitions plant in all France. We -met Thadee Natanson, Director General. He is a wonderful character. Our -impression of him was very good and he later addressed us in strong but -broken English and said he hoped he would learn something from us, and, -if we had, in visiting the plant, any suggestions to make, he wanted to -hear them. The plant employs twelve thousand, one-half women and the -remainder men. The product is shells, cartridges, fuses, and detonators. -We were told that this is the only place in France where a projectile is -entirely completed, ready to fire. We met Andre Foulcher, engineer of -the plant. The production of this plant is twenty-eight thousand shells -and twenty-five thousand fuses daily. We were told that here the women -were more efficient than the men. At these works we were taken into the -most dangerous part of the plant, where frequent explosions have -occurred. - -We met here George Martin, editor of the Paris "Progress", and also -Capt. J. Barret, who had recently lost in the army his only son. - -Our tour of Lyons included the Lyons electric light and gas plant. On -this side trip we met an entire regiment of Algerian soldiers, black as -the traditional ace of spades, but fine specimens of manhood. Their -uniforms were almost identical with the uniform worn by our soldiers in -the Civil War. They wore light blue overcoats, such as Governor Tod -furnished the first company which marched from Youngstown. - -Over the door of the gas plant were the words "Defense D'Entrer", with -skull and cross bones underneath and with the further words, "Danger de -Mort". - -At this place we received our first home letters, which were very -welcome. - -In the evening we were given a banquet by the Chamber of Commerce. The -invitation received from the Lyons Chamber, translated, is as follows: - -Lyon, Chamber of Commerce. - -The Lyons Chamber of Commerce beg you to be so kind as to accept a -private invitation at dinner which it will give to the members of -the Commission of the United States on Thursday, September 21st, 7 -o'clock P. M. at Berrier and Millet, 31 Bellecour Square. -Business dress. - -R.S.V.P. - -We were welcomed in English by the vice-president of the Chamber of -Commerce, and discussed the following menu: - - Supreme of Lobster A l'amiral - Tenderloin a la bearnaise - Artichoke Hearts - Chantilly style - Roast Truffled Bresse Chicken - Scotch Salad - Havana Ice - Desert - Wines - Fleurie (Beaujolais) in Decanter - Pouilly (Maconnais) in Decanter - White Hermitage 1904 - Chateau Vaudieu 1904 - Saint-Peray frappe - -On my right was General d'Armade, one of the noted generals of the -French army, who had seen service all through the present war. On my -left was M. Farrand. My talk with General d'Armade was most interesting. -He said the best soldiers of both the French and the German armies were -gone; that they had been destroyed in the early part of the war and that -the soldiers now fighting were civilians who had been trained for two -years. He declared that a French soldier was always a French soldier. He -had no doubt of the ultimate victory of the Allies. In addition to -General d'Armade's experience in the present war, he had been in Morocco -and the Sudan with important commands. - -On Friday, the day following, we were entertained by the directors of -the Lyons Fair. On my left was Charles Cabaud, Russian Consul General. -On my right sat Dr. Jules Courmont, who in time of peace is Professor of -the faculty of medicine and physician to the hospitals of Lyons, but who -now, in time of war, is in the War Department, has the rank of general, -and is charged with the hygiene of the army. - -We found him a very competent and interesting gentleman. He accompanied -us in the private car which the railroad furnished us, and went south -with us some distance to where there is a large government garrison, and -where he had an inspection to make. - -During the trip on the train Dr. Courmont told us many interesting -things about the hygiene of the army. He said that the warfare of today -is very different from the warfare of former times in respect to the -hygiene; that contrary to what was commonly supposed, the hygiene of the -trenches is excellent; that the soldiers are in better condition, most -of them, than they are in time of peace. They are more regularly and -better fed, and are strong, well nourished and hearty. The experience -has been the regeneration of very many of them physically. This is due, -he says, to the fact that they have their food served to them regularly -and abundantly; whereas in former wars it was a matter of the greatest -difficulty for troops to be provisioned. - -We asked him whether or not the water in the trenches was harmful to the -soldiers and he replied that they had very little rheumatism, and the -men did not seem to suffer from it. He said there was almost, or in -fact, no smallpox, and there was comparatively no typhoid. All of the -soldiers are innoculated against typhoid, receiving on the first -innoculation three or four injections, and subsequently being -innoculated about once in every six months, receiving then two -injections. This is for soldiers, whereas civilians are usually -innoculated about once every three years, if it is desired that they -should be kept immune from typhoid. He says they use with best results -the system of Dr. Vidal, of Paris, employing a serum in which the -bacteria have been destroyed by heat rather than by boiling. They find -the effect of this serum much better than that of others. He says that -tuberculosis does, of course, exist, because tuberculosis exists among -most civilized peoples. There is even more tuberculosis now among the -troops than at the beginning of the war; but this is not due to an -increase of tuberculosis, but is due to the fact that the later levies -of troops have included many soldiers who at the beginning would not -have been accepted, because they either had the disease or had a -tendency toward it. - -He then spoke about the effect of various weapons in use. He was asked -whether the modern rifle wound was serious. He said it was either so -serious as to kill the soldier by passing-through the brain, the heart, -or some other vital part, or else it was a matter of more or less -indifference. If a rifle ball went through the fleshy part of the body, -you could pretty safely say it was not a grave wound, because the -bullets passing through the air are so cleansed and heated that when -they go through the fleshy part of the body they leave no germs and do -little harm unless they fracture a bone. We asked if they did not carry -into the wound infected pieces of the soldiers' clothing, and he said -no, that they did not find that to be the case; that the bullet went -through so quickly that it separated the clothing, and went through the -flesh clean. He even stated that a bullet could pass through the lungs; -that the wounded soldier would spit up blood, but that when attended to -at once, and the wound dressed, it would be a matter of only eight or -ten days when he would be again in fairly good condition. He said, -however, that wounds from fragments of shrapnel were of quite a -different character; that they were ragged, unclean and usually gave -much concern. He said, also, as a matter of fact, that the gun or rifle -was performing a less and less important function in warfare. That many -were even in favor of abandoning the rifle entirely as a weapon. That -the war, as carried on today, is carried on in personal assaults mainly -through the effectiveness of the grenades, handknives, revolvers and -similar weapons; that the trenches and trench warfare are not suited to -close hand-to-hand encounters, as there is not usually room enough to -manipulate a gun and bayonet. (This agrees with what was told us by our -Negro friend, Bob Scanlon, whom we met at Clermond, and who said all he -wanted and carried in an assault or a fight were grenades, a knife and a -good club, preferably of iron.) - -The doctor said that for the warfare of today reliance is mainly upon -the mitrailleuse, which fires 300 shots a minute. He says that nothing -living within the range of these guns, and exposed to them, can possibly -stand. This is the small arm which had such great effect for the French -in the first days of the war. The Germans had very few guns of this kind -in the beginning, but they have since provided themselves with them. He -said that outside of these guns the most effective are the famous 75 mm. -and the 155 mm. rifles. He asked us to recall the fact that both of -these guns were fired for our benefit at St. Charmond, under the -direction of Col. Rimailho, whom we had the pleasure of meeting there, -and who was one of the important men co-operating in building the "75", -and who was, himself, the inventor and author of the "155". These are -the guns of lighter caliber which do such effective work in the field. -Of course, in addition, the French are also using guns of very large -caliber, for instance the 350 mm. These, of course, are for the -reduction of forts, and the enemy's line prior to assault. - -[Illustration: Women Employed in Munitions Factories.] - -Dr. Courmont wanted to know whether we had seen the new armored -caterpillar cars which they were preparing, and we told him we had seen -them at St. Charmond. He said they were to be equipped with one "75" gun -and with two or three mitrailleuses (the rapid fire gun), and that an -equipment like this, armored against the shrapnel of the enemy, would -doubtless be most effective for the French, as a similar caterpillar had -been for the English. - - - - -VII. - -ART AND ARCHITECTURE OF ARLES - - -We left Lyons for Arles, in the military automobiles, passing through -and stopping for a brief time at Tarascon, made famous by Daude in his -novel, "Tartarin of Tarascon". Here we were given the usual reception -and pretty much the entire population of the town turned out to greet -us. The following leaflet by the Arles Chamber of Commerce outlines the -program: - -* * * - -Reception of the Economical Commission of the United States - -Friday, September 22nd - -5 o'clock 25' P.M. Reception of the Commission at the station -by the Chamber of Commerce and -the officials of the City of Arles. - -7 o'clock 45' P.M. Dinner given by the Chamber of Commerce -(Hotel Du Nord). - -Saturday, September 23rd - -8 o'clock 30' A.M. Leave the Forum Square for the visit -of the monuments and museums of Arles. -11 o'clock 25' Luncheon given by the Chamber of Commerce -(Forum hotel). - -1 o'clock 10" P.M. Leave Forum Square for the station. - -* * * - -At the evening banquet at the Hotel Du Nord, on my right was J. E. -Agate, an English army officer. He had been in the quartermaster's -department, engaged in purchasing supplies for the English army. On my -left was M. Bonnet Guillaume, vice-president of the Chamber of Commerce, -and who lives at Tarascon. We met at this banquet Henri Brenier, advance -agent of the Marseilles Chamber of Commerce. He distributed a handsome -booklet prepared by the Marseilles Chamber. - -[Illustration: Arlesiennes--Types of Southern France.] - -Mr. Geo. B. Ford, of the Commission, delivered the following address -before the Arles Chamber of Commerce: - -Yesterday afternoon I went to the Arena alone, and climbed up as -high as I could and studied it while the sunset shadows crept high -and higher and the great arches gradually faded into gloom. - -The wonderful history of Arles passed before me. I saw it as the -great imperial Roman city dominating the valley. I saw it during -the Christian times in the building of the portal of St. Trophime, -and saw it during the Gothic times leading in the history of the -Church, and then again in the Renaissance presenting the world with -the most beautiful example of the work of Mansard, the City Hall. - -It seemed that most that was best in the history of architecture in -France was epitomized in the monuments of Arles. To the connoisseur -in America, Arles is well-known. I remember many years ago their -pointing out to me the portal of Trinity Church in Boston, saying -it was inspired from a church called St. Trophime in a town called -Arles in France. The architect of that church, Richardson, our -greatest American architect, was a great lover of Arles. He came -here often for inspiration. Through him, Arles had a great -influence on American architecture of the time. - -Recently there was in New York City a competition among leading -architects for a great court house. The design which won was -frankly admitted by its author--Guy Lowell--to be inspired by the -Arena of Arles, of which he is a most enthusiastic admirer. - -A number of outdoor theatres have sprung up of late throughout -America. The Roman theatre at Arles is their model. - -There is an impression prevalent in France that the average -American thinks only of business; that the higher things of life -have no interest for him. It is far from true. The members of this -Industrial Commission are truly representative of the average -interest and point of view of the American business man, -manufacturer and technical man, and yet each one of them has gone -out of his way to express his delight in his visit to Arles. All -consider it one of the most valuable parts of the trip. Yes, a -marked change is coming over the American business man. He is -recognizing that there is far more in life than being tied to his -job without a let-up. He is relaxing now and then, and in his -relaxation he is discovering the France that his wife and daughter -know. He should come to Arles. He has begun to come a little. We -hope he will come in far greater numbers in the future. It remains -for you to spread broadcast the virtues of Arles. We sincerely hope -that you will miss no opportunities to do this for we believe it -will tend to weave another important bond of understanding and -sympathy between the two countries. - -We visited Angna Castle in Arles, to which the Popes were once exiled, -even yet known as the "Home of Popes", or "Popes' Castle". - -Arles contains convalescent hospitals, and Red Cross girls, with their -cans, having a slot, were collecting coins everywhere. Arles is an -ancient Roman town. We visited the famous Hotel de Ville, or Town Hall, -which dates back to the Seventeenth century. The architect was Mansard, -for whom the Mansard roof, known in America, is named. The Town Hall is -covered by a curious roof, with supports which hold up the entire -building. In the square is an Egyptian obelisk four thousand years old. - -We visited another ancient museum and were shown among other things a -very ancient lead pipe six inches in diameter and in a good state of -preservation. In a sarcophagus of the second century were the remains of -a Roman musician, with an inscription thereon. In addition there was a -statue of Emperor Augustus and a statue of Venus of Arles, with some -original and some restored jars and vases more than two thousand years -old. - -We visited an old church founded by St. Trophime, noted in the Bible in -the epistles of St. Paul. Barbarossa, Emperor of Germany, was crowned in -this church. I was struck by a tablet of "Moses crossing the Red Sea" on -one of the walls. This tablet, a most beautiful and interesting piece of -art, reminded me of an experience of my younger days which served to fix -in my mind the celebrated passage of the Israelites in a manner the -effectiveness of which would be envied by the average Sunday School -teacher, even if it was not entirely due to reverence. I had often told -this story to my friends and again told it that evening to some of the -members of the Commission, who seemed to enjoy it well enough to justify -its repetition here. - -About the close of the Civil War in 1865, I paid a visit to a younger -brother who was managing a small charcoal blast furnace in Tennessee. I -had never been in this part of the South before and had received minute -instructions as to how to find the place. - -Embarking at Nashville on a Cumberland river boat, after a day's ride, I -left the boat in accordance with my brother's instructions at a small -landing and, crossing the river on a ferry, remained over night at a -cabin occupied by a pious old Negro. A horse was sent me at this humble -abode the following morning. - -Some little time after finishing a hearty meal composed almost wholly of -corn pone, the old gentleman brought out a time worn Bible and read two -or three chapters. He then announced that we would all unite in prayer. -We all kneeled down. He invoked the Divine blessing upon the rulers of -the earth, the President of the United States and almost everything else -movable and immovable, on land, under the sea and over the sea. After he -had prayed fully a half hour, tired and sleepy, I became impatient and -nudged the half-grown boy next to me with a query as to how long the -prayer would last. Meantime the boy had fallen asleep. However my nudge -woke him up and, repeating my inquiry, I was answered with the -question:--"Has pap got to where Moses crossed de Red Sea"? "No, he has -not got to that yet," was my answer. "Well, when Pap gets to where Moses -done crossed de Red Sea, he am jes half through." - -We saw also in this church the tomb of Montcalm, grandfather of -Montcalm, the French general who fell at the taking of Quebec in the -French and English war during the Seventeenth century. - -We visited Roman walls and ramparts built by Julius Caesar, and saw an -ancient cemetery directly opposite a munitions factory, which we thought -was a very appropriate location. This cemetery had been pillaged and the -ancient things carried away as relics. - -We also visited, while at Arles, a convalescent camp, and saw a number -of Moroccan soldiers. - -A point of great interest is the ancient Roman Theatre, built by -Augustus Caesar and containing a statue of that Emperor. Another is the -Arena, built in the first century, restored and reconstructed, and now -used as an outdoor theatre. Sarah Bernhardt played there two years ago -in a Shakesperian representation. It was used in the olden days for the -entertainment of royalty, for gladiatorial contests, and battles of wild -beasts. It is frequently used now for bull rights, as this part of -France is near the Spanish border. - -In front of the Hotel Du Nord is the statue of Mistral, the great poet -of Provence. - -We visited the Palace of Constantine, Roman Emperor in the fourth -century. In this place remains a pool with means for heating water which -would be considered in good form at the present day. - -Arles is a famous centre of architecture and has been visited by all the -great architects of the world. Here many received high inspiration, as -stated in the address given by Mr. Ford. - -En route to Arles we had noticed an old Roman theatre in the village of -Orange. We noticed also, which seemed to be common in South France, that -the horses wore a leather horn on the tops of their collars. This is -said to be a usage handed down from the Middle Ages. In this region we -passed whole train loads of grapes, which looked from a short distance -like carloads of anthracite coal. - -Our next destination was Marseilles, and here Henri Brenier met us. We -stopped at Martique, which was the home of Ziem, the great French -painter, now deceased. We visited the Ziem museum. The lake of Martique -is where the new port of Marseilles is to be located. This town dates -back six hundred years B. C. We met here the president, Adrien Artaud, -and the vice-president, Hubert Giraud, of the Chamber of Commerce of -Marseilles. - -[Illustration: Old Roman Arena at Arles--Still Used For Bull Fights and -Other Amusements.] - - - - -VIII. - -ALONG THE MEDITERRANEAN - - -Arriving at De Rove, the south end of the tunnel, on Saturday, September -23rd, I had my first view of the Mediterranean. It was a most beautiful -sight, and the water as blue as pictured in paintings. We were rowed in -a small boat across an arm of the Mediterranean to the town of -Marseilles. We first visited the new part of Marseilles; then the old. -Upon our arrival there was a tremendous gathering to greet us; not less -than ten thousand children were shouting "Viva la Amerique". The whole -city was decorated with American and French flags intertwined. The crowd -lined upon the wharf so thickly we could scarcely pass through it. This -reception was the greatest we had received anywhere in France. We -visited the Hotel de Ville and were greeted by the mayor, with a -response by Mr. Nichols, interpreted by Dr. Mailloux. We were then taken -to the Hotel Regina and in the evening given a banquet by the Chamber of -Commerce. This chamber was organized in 1599 and is the oldest chamber -of commerce in the world. - -Our invitation to this banquet read as follows: - -* * * - -The President of the Marseilles Chamber of Commerce begs you to -honor him by your presence at the luncheon which will be given to -the members of your Commission on - -Monday, September 25th 12:30 P. M. at the -Restaurant de la Re'serve. -(31 F Promenade de la Corniche) - -* * * - -At this banquet, on my right sat Maurice Damour, French deputy in charge -of the Commission, and on my left Hubert Giraud, vice-president of the -Chamber of Commerce. He made a fine address and I asked him for a copy, -which he gave me. It is reproduced herewith: - -* * * - -Mr. President-- -Gentlemen: - -I am desired by my President to give you in your own language the -welcome of the Chamber of Commerce of Marseilles. You will -certainly lose more than gain in hearing me instead of President -Artaud, and I must apologize, as my knowledge of English is far -from being adequate to my task. Anyhow, it is possible my words may -be by a few of our guests more easily translated than if delivered -in French. - -Gentlemen, the oldest Chamber of Commerce in France, and maybe in -the world, is exceedingly proud of entertaining tonight the highly -qualified representatives of the American Commerce and Industry. We -are most thankful to your party to have agreed to spend some of -your valuable time in our city. We are sorry to say that we have -not this good fortune as often as we would like, and that your -fellow-citizens generally pay very little care to our old harbour -and town. They are rather exclusively attracted by our great -capital, Paris, and when coming to enjoy the splendid winters of -the French Riviera, they reach it direct by rail or by sea, and -seem to be quite ignorant of Marseilles, where they could find at -least what is our city's glory: LIGHT, LIFE and LABOUR. - -I think that Marseilles deserves more attention, and that the old -ties between America and Marseilles should be better known. I would -recall that our history, especially the history of our Chamber of -Commerce, records the old sympathy of Marseilles for America. It is -as old as your nation herself. At the end of the eighteenth -century, when the stars of young America just appeared on the -Atlantic horizon, French warships fought for your fathers' -independence. Some ships of Admiral d'Estaing's French squadron -bore names such as "LE MARSEILLAIS", "LA PROVENCE". In the year -1782 the French fleet was increased by a new warship of 118 guns, -built and armed at the expense of the Chamber of Commerce of -Marseilles. Her cost was 1,200,000 francs, a very small sum of -money in our days, but rather a large one in those remote times. -She was offered to King Louis XVI for the very purpose of helping -in the American war, and she was named by the King "Le Commerce de -Marseille." - -Gentlemen, it is for the successors of the "echevins" of the year -1782 a great joy to meet in Marseilles the sons of the glorious -soldiers of the Independence War, sustained so many years ago with -the assistance of the warship bearing their own name. - -Gentlemen, Marseilles may be somewhat ignored, but France was not -forgotten by America. I need not mention the numerous proofs our -country has received of your country's sympathy. But I only fulfill -a duty in emphasizing the very great help we have found in America -in the course of this terrible war, the greatest human cataclysm -which ever stormed the human world. All of us are aware that France -found in America another kind of help than material, steel and -grain. France found amongst you any sort of goods, but also--and -over all--kindness and pity. American ambulances, splendidly -organized, afforded invaluable relief to our wounded on the front. -May I mention not that American airmen rendered to our army the -most useful services, and that American lives were lost for France. -America helps us by sea, on land and in the air. Your country knows -that France is not fighting for power or profit, but that she is -pouring the best of her children's blood for Freedom and Humanity. - -Gentlemen, we used to say in France that good accounts, that is good -settlements of business, make good friends. I believe that the words may -be reversed and that good friendship may lead to good business. I trust -that after this war, trade between America and Marseilles will be -largely extended. We have shown you that, notwithstanding the present -worries and difficulties, we are pushing on our harbor improvements and -preparing large accommodation for shipping and industry. We strongly -believe that, in the near future, Marseilles must become the most -important harbor and center of commerce for the whole Mediterranean Sea. -We think that the American trade will find in our city the best center -of distribution for your large exports of commodities such as petroleum, -harvesting machinery, tobacco, and that they should be forwarded through -Marseilles to all the Mediterranean shores. I have no doubt your visit -in our city will allow you to observe that you can find here produce of -our land or of our industry, most convenient for American requirements, -and that in the mutual interest of your and our cities the trade between -Marseilles and American ports will be proportionate to the friendship of -the Nations. - -Mr. President, Gentlemen, I propose your good health and the good -health of your friends, and the prosperity of our sister Republic, -The United States of America. - -* * * - -[Illustration: Shore of Mediterranean near Marseilles. In the Distance -Chateau D'If, Made Famous by Dumas.] - -There was greeting by M. Artaud, president of the Chamber of Commerce, -and a response by Mr. Nichols. We were given an ovation by the most -representative people of Marseilles. We met at this dinner, A. Gaulin, -American Consul General, and he was most cordial. - -The next day was Sunday. In the afternoon we visited the Marseilles Art -Museum. We saw a bust, recently found, which dates back to the Second -century; it resembles very closely the work of Rodin. In this museum we -saw an old bell, labeled 1840, and an old straw hat, labeled 1820. We -drove all over the city, visited the old docks and noted the -cosmopolitan conglomeration of people in streets. - -We were taken to the Chateau D'If, which is a quarter of a mile out at -sea, made world-famous by Dumas in the noted novel "The Count of Monte -Cristo". We all resolved, right then and there, that when we got home we -would re-read "The Count of Monte Cristo". In our drive we saw Longchamp -palace, which resembles very much the court of honor in the National -McKinley Birthplace Memorial at Niles, Ohio. The entrance to the port of -Marseilles resembles the Golden Gate at San Francisco. We gathered -considerable information in our talks with the people we met at -Marseilles, being told among other things, that all the officials of the -French government are to hold over until the war is over, that is to -say, elections are suspended for the time being. The efficiency and -preparedness of the Germans was enlarged upon, it being stated, as is -very well known, that Germany was the only country prepared at the time -the war broke out. - -We visited at Marseilles the birthplace of Rouget de l'Isle, the author -of the Marseilles hymn. This hymn was first sung by a lady at an evening -party in Straussburgh, Germany, and it was then called the "Hymn of the -Soldier from Marseilles", but afterwards became known as "The -Marsellaise Hymn". It is the national anthem of France; the words are -inspiring and no one, whether American or French, can listen to the -music of this hymn without being stirred to the depths. - -We heard much of the vast stores of zinc and iron ores in Tunisia and -Algeria, and were given much information about French colonies. France, -including its colonies, has nearly one hundred million people. The -Trans-Africa Railroad takes in a population of more than two hundred -million people along the Mediterranean, including France, Spain and -Italy. One of the largest dams in the world, "La Durance Dame," 429 feet -across, is in France, not far from Marseilles. - -Before the war Germany marketed a large amount of its coal in France, -three hundred thousand tons annually. - -Bauxite or aluminum ore is mined in France, and 60 per cent. of the -output of the world is French product. Algeria contains millions of -acres of virgin forests, ready to be explored. The cork oak is one of -the important trees. Large exports of iron ore are made to England. At -the end of the war the French expect to market ore and coal from the -fields of Lorraine. - -In our travels through Marseilles, we did not observe anywhere play -grounds or amusements of any kind for the workmen. - -Marseilles has a number of convalescent hospitals. We saw in the streets -on Sunday, soldiers wandering about, English, French, Russian, Tunisian, -Algerian, Hindu-Chinese, Moroccan, Australian, Canadian, Corsican; -natives of Madagascar and Negroes from South Africa--soldiers from -eleven different nations. - -There is a plan projected to connect Marseilles with a system of French -canals, so as to afford direct water communication between the -Mediterranean, the North Sea and thus to the English Channel. Marseilles -antedates the Christian era by five hundred years. In 1782 a man-of-war -mounting one hundred and eighteen guns, named "La Commerce de -Marseilles" was built at the expense of the Marseilles Chamber of -Commerce and presented to Louis XVI for the fleet sent by the French -Government to fight for American independence. Marseilles, later on, -became prominent in the French Revolution and gave its name to the -French national hymn. - -The largest tunnel in the world is now well under course of -construction in France, its object being to give the city of Marseilles -connection with Paris and the interior in general by rail and water. -This tunnel will provide an ample waterway for barges. The entire -project involves the building of a new harbor and the cutting of a ship -canal, actually tunneled through solid rock for five long miles, joining -the old harbor and the Mediterranean to the River Rhone. The Rhone's -upper stretches are placid and already are used extensively for barge -navigation, but near Marseilles the stream is far too turbulent for -commerce. A range of hills had prevented the construction of a canal in -days gone by. Now, with France energized by the war, and with the -necessity for the canal emphasized thereby, the tunnel is being pushed -and the canal will soon be opened. It will connect Marseilles with the -network of canals which extends throughout the country. There are longer -tunnels in the world, but none so large, for this is seventy-two feet -wide and nearly forty-seven feet high. The work was begun in 1911-12 and -has been continued through the war. The project is being put through by -the Marseilles Chamber of Commerce, which found $8,000,000 of the -$18,280,000 required to do the work. The balance will be paid by vessel -tolls. The canal runs from Arles to the Mediterranean, a distance of -fifty-one miles, making a navigable waterway to the usable portion of -the Rhone and the Saone, opening 337 miles of water capable of bearing -600-ton lighters. By this canal and links already available, barges can -be sent from the Mediterranean to the English Channel. - -On Monday, September the 25th, I called upon the Consul General A. -Gaulin. I found him a very agreeable gentleman and quite devoted to his -work, a great deal of which consisted in helping needy Americans -stranded in France. - -The Commission was invited to luncheon at the Hotel Reserve, overlooking -the Mediterranean and the Chateau D'If. On my right sat the president of -the Marseilles Chamber of Commerce, Adrien Artaud, and on my left sat -Lucien Estrine, former president of the Marseilles Chamber of Commerce. -At this elevated hotel, tradition has it, the Count of Monte Cristo and -his bride had their wedding breakfast. - -In the afternoon an open meeting was held by the Chamber of Commerce at -the Regina Hotel. This meeting was attended by citizens of Marseilles -interested in the import and export business. The question of credits -was pretty thoroughly discussed. It was stated by a number of Frenchmen -present that the coveting of the iron ore and coal deposits of France by -the Germans was the real cause of the war. - - - - -IX. - -TOWNS IN SOUTHERN FRANCE - - -We left Marseilles on Tuesday, September 26th, at 6 A. M. for Grenoble. -The sunrise was very beautiful; along the way you can see trees, the -tops of which have been chopped off. We were told that the annual crop -of fire-wood in France is just the same as the annual crop of wheat or -any other product. Fast growing trees are planted and the branches and -twigs are utilized for fuel. - -We were met at the Grenoble station by eight entirely new Dodge -automobiles. - -At Grenoble, we visited the glove factory of Perrin & Co. This firm is -well known in the United States and we were informed that our country is -its best customer. In normal times the concern employes twenty thousand -men and women, equally divided. The product is twenty million pairs of -gloves annually. Much of the work is taken home for execution. The shop -is well lighted and the sanitary conditions seem to be all of the very -best. We visited the Raymond button factory and the candy factory of -Davin & Company. This was a very interesting experience. At the close, -or rather before leaving the factory, we were permitted to witness the -decoration of a workman who had been in the employment of the company -for thirty-five years. It was really an affecting sight. We were told -that in all that time he had not lost a day from sickness and the time -had arrived when he was entitled to a pension. He was decorated by the -head of the firm. At the close of the ceremonies he was surrounded by -his family, relatives and members of the firm, and greeted in the usual -way of the French with their own countrymen, that is to say, by kissing -and embracing. - -On Wednesday, September 27th, at seven in the morning, we left Grenoble -for the French Alps. We had as a guide John Steel, an American who had -been in France for fifteen years and had become a French citizen. He -gave us much valuable information. He said, among other things, that -when the railroads in France take freight they guarantee the time of -delivery, if desired, and include an extra charge in the rate. On this -trip we passed three companies of mounted guns, the technical name being -mountain artillery. This was an interesting sight. A portion consisted -of donkeys with all the paraphernalia of a soldier strapped to their -backs, together with rapid firing mitrailleuses. The soldiers were -unusually fine looking men from the Alpine district, a portion of France -near the Swiss border. - -[Illustration: Types from French Provinces.] - -We visited a paper mill where the entire product was cardboard. We -passed the "Escole de Garcons," otherwise a school for teaching -waiters. We were told by Mr. Steel that in the valley adjoining that in -which we were driving anthracite coal exists in abundance but has not -been worked to any great extent. We passed mountain villages and noticed -the cultivation of the sides of mountains almost perpendicular. It was a -wonderful ride, amid splendid scenery, with numerous waterfalls, snow -and glaciers in great abundance; in other words, we were going through -the Switzerland of France. We passed a flock of sheep, more than five -thousand in number, cared for by a head shepherdess, with several -assistants and a number of dogs. - -We had luncheon at the Grand Hotel Bourg D'Oison and stopped briefly at -the hotel de La Meige. - -On our return down the mountain we visited an electric manufacturing -plant, the products being aluminum, magnesium, sodium, peroxide, sodium, -oxolyte, calcium, and hydrated calcium. In this factory one of the -commissioners had a narrow escape from certain injury, if not death, by -attempting to taste the chemicals. He was stopped just in time. - -We then visited the Chateau Vizille, built in the seventeenth century -and at one time occupied by Casimer de Perier, President of France. -Vizille was one of the three great marshalls of France, and the chateau -is called the "Cradle of Liberty". The first French Revolutionary -meeting was held here. The castle contained old cannon and splendid old -furniture, while the surrounding grounds were beautiful. - -On Thursday, September 28th, we visited the paper manufacturing plant of -Berges at Lancey. There is an immense water-power installation here, the -capacity of the plant being one hundred tons daily of all grades of -paper. There are two plants, one a very old one, dating back nearly two -hundred years, and the other a new one, not quite completed. We saw here -one machine which cost one hundred and sixty thousand dollars, a -remarkable piece of mechanism, almost human in its workings. The -waterfall is six hundred feet in a short distance. Adjoining this paper -mill was a small munition plant. Most of the employes were women, -dressed in the American bloomer costume. - -In the afternoon we had a meeting with the citizens and the Chamber of -Commerce of Grenoble. The discussion took a very wide range--from the -tariff question to the latest news from the front. - -Next the party visited a plant for the manufacture of sheet steel by -electricity. - -In the evening we were banqueted at the Grand Hotel. On my right sat M. -Paisant, Director General; on my left was Mr. Thomas W. Mutton, -Vice-consul of the United States of America at Grenoble; near was was -Mr. Tenot, Prefect of the district. - -This part of France is noted for the amount of cement manufactured. -Walnuts are grown in this section in large quantities. I discussed -these things with Mr. Murton. - -There was a discussion at the banquet over female suffrage and the -birthrate, and this grew very animated. - -On Friday, September 29th, we left Grenoble and stopped at Voiron and -were here treated, at 9:30 A. M., with a "petit dejeuner". We next -visited the monastery Grande. This was founded in the Twelfth century by -St. Bruno. The present building was commenced and completed in the -sixteenth century and the community originally had forty-two monks or -fathers. This monastery is where the celebrated liquor, "Chartreuse", -was manufactured, the basis of which is brandy, distilled flowers, and -herbs. This formula was known only to the monks. While at the monastery -in France each monk had an individual garden and an individual cell. -When an extra penance seemed necessary special silence was given them -and they were compelled to remain in their cells for months at a time. -There were long corridors and in the basement places for servants and -retainers. In the center of the grounds was a very beautiful place where -the fathers were buried. We were told that the order was recruited -mainly from the intellectual class, many of them widowers. Special rooms -were reserved for travelers without money and without price. - -[Illustration: Monastery of Chartreuse.] - -The Carthusian order of Monks established themselves at Grenoble, -France, in 1132. The original receipe for the famous cordial was given -them in 1602 by Marshall d'Estress. Friar Jerome Maubec arranged the -present formula in 1755, and it remained unchanged until their expulsion -by the French Government, July 2nd, 1901. More than two hundred -ingredients go to make up Chartreuse, and nowhere else in the world can -this cordial be manufactured. Chartreuse is the unsolved enigma of -French compounders of liqueurs. Its manufacture has ceased. It is quite -true that at Tarragona, Spain, the monks still continue to make cordial -under the name of "Peres Chartreux", but it is generally agreed that, -owing to the change of locality and climate, the "Peres Chartreux" now -made there is not equal to the old Chartreuse. There are a number of -people in Grenoble who make imitation Chartreuse, but it is not so good -as the real thing. - -The monastery library contained twenty-two thousand volumes. These monks -were also known as the Chartreusers, or Carthusian Monks. This was the -head monastery, but there were branches in Italy, Spain, and Portugal. -The fathers lived on a simple diet and no meat was allowed. They were -not allowed to speak to each other except twice a week, on Sunday and -Thursday. This old monastery is now used as a hospital for -convalescents. - -After this most interesting visit we were taken to luncheon at the Hotel -du Grand Som, and later for a ride of one hundred miles in the military -automobiles, through a mountainous country. - -We arrived at Annecy at 8 P. M. and stopped at the Imperial Palace -Hotel. This is one of the finest watering places in France. A beautiful -lake surrounds the hotel, with mountains in the distance. - -The next morning we called upon the Mayor and went through the usual -speeches. We were given a boat ride on the lake. Then we visited an old -castle. The coast looked very much like the coast of Maine between Bath -and Squirrel Island. We were taken by boat from Annecy to Menthon and -had luncheon at the Palace Hotel. Here Mr. Damour made his first speech, -which was received so enthusiastically that he was kissed by nearly all -the Frenchmen present. - -We then visited an electric steel plant at Acierils, the French name -being the "Electriques of Ugine". We were greeted by, among other -things, a couple of American flags, but they were upside down. - -We left Annecy at 5 P. M. for Lyons and stopped at the Terminus Hotel. -We saw a number of tattooed soldiers, that is tattooed with powder -marks, they having seen service. - -On Sunday, October 1st, at 8 A. M. we left Lyons for Le Creusot, where -the great French steel plant is located. A serious discussion was held -on the train about going to the front and the dangers were depicted -quite vividly. We stopped at Chagny, after passing a very old church -dating back to the Tenth century. We saw, as we passed along, droves of -beautiful white cows, with not a speck of color. - - - - -X. - -THE CREUSOT GUN WORKS - - -Arriving in Le Creusot we stopped at the Grand Hotel Moderne and had a -most enjoyable Sunday evening. It was discovered that our French -secretary, Emile Garden, had quite a tenor voice. He started in to sing -the Marseilles Hymn, and it was not long until all the Commission -joined, and then the hotel employes. Before we got through scores of -people came in from the street to see what was going on. The incident -was telegraphed by the newspaper correspondents to the Paris papers, and -it aided in the work of the commissioners by showing their patriotism -and sympathy for France. - -We were told that there had been no strike at Le Creusot for twenty-five -years. The employes wear a special sleeve decoration which indicates -that they are in the same class as soldiers; that is to say, they are -making cannon and munitions and working for France. - -We were given a breakfast at the Schneider club house and then visited -the plant. We were refused admission to the munitions plant. The works -employ about twenty thousand men and two thousand women. The output of -the plant is large projectiles, and for this reason the number of women -employed is relatively small. A number of five hundred and twenty -millimeter shells were shown to us; these shells are more than seven -feet long and weigh a ton and a half. We were also shown the guns from -which they are fired, but these were not quite completed. This plant -contains four blast furnaces of very small capacity, making special -grades of pig iron. The initial heat is not used, the steel being -reheated and repoured. A good deal of Vanadium alloy is used, and this -is made in America. At this plant we met Mr. Edmond Lemaitre, an -engineer who had been in Youngstown employed as an inspector. All the -employes, both men and women, wear wooden shoes. We noticed an absence -of safety devices and safety notices. Armored cars were being -manufactured for the government as well as armor plate, but this armor -plate mill was away behind the mills in our own country. - -We had luncheon at the club house, but no speeches were made. None of -the proprietors or directors of the company was present. We then visited -the company hospital, a part of which was occupied by electric devices -for treating the wounded. Then we came to the home where the orphans of -the employes are taken care of. - -[Illustration: New 520-mm. Gun, Carrying Projectile Seven Feet in Length -and Weighing 3,100 lbs., seen at Creusot Works.] - -A great deal of attention is paid to the sanitary conditions and also to -the uniforms of the men, and a great deal that is done for the workmen -could be copied in our American plants. The history of these works, -the greatest of their kind in France, is interesting. Their former ore -supply, or at least a large part of it, was captured by the Germans near -Verdun. - -The name Creusot was first mentioned in an old charter in 1253. In the -year 1502 coal was discovered there, and the year 1793 saw the opening -of the Canal du Centre. During the French Revolution the plant was taken -and exploited by the state and a little before the year 1800 was given -back to its owners. During the Napoleonic wars much work was done here. -In the year 1815, gun making was stopped and only coal mining was -allowed. - -The dynasty of the Schneiders continued for four generations; the last -one, Charles Eugene Schneider, was born in 1868. - -The first French locomotive was built at this plant and, in 1841, the -first hammer moved by steam power. - -In the year 1855 the Crimean war led to much activity at this plant. In -1867 ten thousand workmen were employed. In the year 1870 the first -Bessemer steel produced in France, was made here, although the process -had then been in use in the United States for six years. - -Since 1884 these works have been exporting guns to many foreign -countries. - -In 1897 a large plant was built near Le Havre for the manufacture of -naval guns. In 1882 they built large naval works near Bordeaux, and -since 1906 they have been building the largest warships at that place. -In 1909, at Hyeres, near Toulon, studying and making of torpedoes was -begun, and this was followed in 1910 by submarines. Five plants are now -scattered through France for this kind of work. - -The Creusot works do not employ children under fourteen years of age. -There are often three generations employed in this same kind of work, -and some families have up to twenty members working in one plant. They -have always been spared epidemics of any serious nature. With sanitary -and prosperous homes, few deaths have occurred in the first year of -life. The rate of deaths at Le Creusot is only ten per thousand while -the average in France is 16 per thousand, and in bad industrial centers -25 per thousand. Eighty per cent. of the children are nursed by the -mother. After the seventh month before birth mothers rest, and for a -period after and during this time they receive the usual wages. - -The first school was opened here in 1787. At the age of fourteen -children can become apprentices and those of other towns or villages are -often attracted. After they have a school certificate, entrance to the -works is optional. From the age of twelve to sixteen years they must do -military preparation, with flags and musical band. The brightest -children go to high school to become engineers, and they are taught by -the best professors in France. They pay back the cost of their -education only when they have secured a good position. A thorough -medical examination is necessary. - -Since the year 1875 savings banks for children have existed. - -The first domestic science school was organized in Europe in the year -1865 at Goteborg. At first all the mothers were opposed to these -schools, but they soon favored them. One cannot enter these schools -without a diploma from the common schools. Each teacher is given -twenty-four pupils. The girls are taught to make their own apparel, -gardening, cooking, washing, ironing, mending and keeping home expense -accounts. - -There are three classes of workmen. Ten selected, twenty auxiliaries, -thirty uneducated laborers. In January, 1912 there were twenty thousand -men employed. They all sign a full contract, after reading it, before -getting into the works. The contract can be cancelled by either party -with one week's notice. No proprietor of a saloon can work in the plant. -From 1837 to 1911 the salaries have increased 130 per cent. In the year -1911 the total of salaries was nearly thirty-three million francs. The -annual donations amount to three million francs. Delegates are nominated -by the workmen for conference with the employers to suggest better -conditions and improvements in working methods. Sixty-six per cent. of -their suggestions or demands have been adopted and the result is peace -and confidence. The company provides swimming pools, divided into two -parts, one-half for adults and the other half for younger men and boys. - -The homes are subject to constant sanitary inspection and all unsanitary -buildings are destroyed. Safety appliances and all protecting apparatus -are painted in brilliant red. There has been a constant study of the -workman's house, since the eighteenth century. In 1840 the company had -one hundred workmen's houses; in 1912 two thousand five hundred, and in -addition to this hundreds of these houses have been bought by the -workmen by slow annual payments added to the rent. The types of houses -vary for one to four families. The rents are low and do not pay regular -interest on the investment. Ground space for gardens is furnished by the -company, with annual competitions and rewards for the best results. -Trees and seeds are furnished at nominal prices. There are two thousand, -two hundred and fifty gardens under cultivation. - -The savings bank is managed by the company and safe investments are made -for the workmen, returns of from three to five per cent, on savings -being guaranteed. - -In the year 1911, eight thousand workmen's accounts reached thirteen -million francs. The chief use of the savings is to buy homes. The total -amount advanced to workmen for building houses since 1845 was five -million francs, of which only eighty-three thousand, five hundred are -not yet paid back. - -Co-operative societies for reducing the cost of living are organized to -enable the workmen to get supplies at cost. They were started and -managed by the Schneider Company and gradually left in the hands of the -workmen themselves. - -Club houses are maintained with tennis courts, fencing bouts, games, -gymnasiums, a children's theatre, gun clubs, rowing clubs and musical -societies. The time spent in rehearsing for orchestras is not deducted -from the pay. Free medical attendance for the workman and his family is -given. Emergency and base hospitals are provided by the company. Modern -and up-to-date mutual benefit societies are managed by the workmen. Old -age pensions have been financed differently during the last century and -are now supported by one per cent. from the workman, two per cent. from -the Schneider Company, and three per cent. from the State. - -Houses are provided for men over sixty years of age, and when it is -possible aged couples are kept together. - -We reached Dole at 9 o'clock P. M. on Monday, October 2nd. - -Dole is the birthplace of Pasteur, the great French scientist who -discovered the antidote for hydrophobia. His name is known throughout -the world. - - - - -XI. - -APPROACHING THE FRONT - - -After leaving Dole, the next stop on our itinerary was Besancon, from -which we entered the zone of actual hostilities. For us this town was -the gateway to "The Front" and therefore a point of more than usual -interest. Here we were asked to sign the following paper, which all -members of the commission did on October 4th, we having reached the town -at midnight on October 2nd. - -Besancon, October 4, 1916. - -The itinerary arranged for the American Industrial Commission -includes several days' sojourn at the "front", which is considered -of importance in the prosecution of its investigation, particularly -as preliminary to a conference in Paris with the "American Centrale -pour la Reprise de l' Activite Industrielle dans Les Regions -Envahies." - -The danger of such a trip is fully recognized and hereby admitted, -and although the extraordinary risk inseparably connected with a -trip to Europe at this time has been accepted by us all, yet, in -the present case - -Each of the undersigned by this means records for himself his -voluntary assumption by him of all responsibility in connection -therewith, and furthermore, asserts that neither by coercion, -persuasion, nor even by suggestion on the part of the Chairman, or -otherwise, has his course been determined. - - M. W. W. Nichols, - M. J. G. Butler, Jr. - M. A. B. Farquhar, - M. G. B. Ford, - M. S. F. Hoggson, - M. J. F. Le Maistre, - M. J. R. Mac Arthur, - M. Le Dr. C. O. Mailloux, - M. C. G. Pfeiffer, - M. J. E. Sague, - M. E. A. Warren, - M. E. V. Douglass, - M. E. Garden. - -We were met by the military automobiles at the station, two soldiers in -each auto. I was accosted at the station by a number of wounded English -soldiers. It seemed good to hear a little English spoken. One of the -soldiers reached out his hand as I passed and said, "How are you?" We -were domiciled at the Hotel Europe. The windows were barred with iron -shutters excluding light and fresh air. Early the following morning we -were treated to the sight of more than one thousand German prisoners, -just captured and being taken to the camp at Besancon. - -This was the birthplace of Victor Hugo, who was born February 26th, -1802. Old Roman ruins were very much in evidence, among them an old -Roman citadel and a Roman theatre. By tradition, St. John the Baptist -was buried here. We visited the underground water works and the -Cathedral of St. Jean and saw in this church many paintings of the Holy -Family and other religious representations. There were two immense holes -in this cathedral, the result of bombs fired from the German guns in -1914, in the beginning of the war. - -[Illustration: German Prisoners Passing Through the Village of St. -Etienne.] - -I saw here a girl and a dog hitched to the same cart, hauling a load of -vegetables; they both seemed contented. - -Luncheon was served by the Chamber of Commerce at the Resturant De -Besancon. In the evening we were given a banquet at the Besancon Hotel -de Ville. Up to this time I had been with the Commission five weeks, but -on account of my patriotic utterances in private and my quite apparent -sympathy with the French people, was not urged to speak. It had been, -however, arranged that I was to talk at Le Creusot, but there was not a -representative gathering to talk to there, and this Besancon banquet -seemed to be the proper place. After some pressure of other members of -the Commission I was requested to speak. This was really the first note -of human sympathy sounded. I first spoke in English, which not more than -two or three in the audience, outside of the Commissioners, understood, -although there were about one hundred present. At the conclusion of my -talk it was translated into French by Mr. MacArthur. When he got -through I was surrounded by the Frenchmen present and congratulated as -well as embraced by practically the entire audience. This address is -reproduced by special request of some of the members of the Commission -who heard it. - -Gentlemen:-- - -I am afraid my aeroplane French will not be understood by our good -friends present. I tried it on a number of our Franco-American -orators, and they, with one accord, said it was fine and beautiful, -but they could not understand a word I was saying. I will, -therefore, ask my fellow-traveler and sympathizer, Mr. MacArthur, -to read the brief address I have prepared, apologizing through him -for the lamentable fact that I speak English only. - -This gives me an opportunity of saying that by special letter of -authorization issued by Dr. Ricketts President of the American -Institute of Mining Engineers, I represent that important -organization during our mission in France. The American Institute -of Mining Engineers is composed of more than six thousand members, -all technical, scientific and practical men. The organization has -been in existence more than a quarter of a century, and has -rendered invaluable service to our mining and manufacturing -interests in the United States. This scientific body of men stand -ready to render such service to France as France may desire and it -is hoped this suggestion may receive serious consideration. - -Gentlemen: When our good ship, the Lafayette, passed through the -river entering the port of Bordeaux, we beheld a most beautiful -sunset, such as Cazin would have painted. As we beheld this -glorious vision, it flashed through my mind that France is -fighting for its existence among nations, and my heart went out to -all France in loving sympathy. As we landed and progressed on our -journey, this feeling of reverence and affection for the French -people became intensified. The French spirit insures victory--a -victory which, when gained, will be substantial and enduring, -worthy of the great people who are pouring out their life blood and -treasure to attain this end. - -Everywhere we have been impressed with the earnestness of the women -in France. All the thousands we have seen at their employment -impressed me with their desire to help save the country. In a word, -as I looked upon their faces, all seemed to express the thought, -"We are working for France". This slogan goes all over your fair -land and is a mighty factor in the progress of the conflict. Signs -of loss were everywhere from Bordeaux to Paris, and in our -wanderings since, but not a word of complaint have we heard. - -Our visit to the birthplace of your countryman, Lafayette, was -looked forward to with intense interest, and the visit was a keen -realization of the expectation. As our worthy President, Mr. -Nichols, raised his glass and asked that we pause for a moment in -silence and think of the great man who was the companion and aide -of Washington, "first in war, first in peace, and first in the -hearts of his countrymen," there was not a dry eye in the room. All -present realized the close relationship between France and the -United States--cemented and welded for all time to come by the -early sympathy of France for our struggling colonies, and the great -assistance rendered by Lafayette to Washington in our time of need, -and which resulted in our independence. - -In the present struggle of France, we owe it to the French people -to aid in all possible ways. I believe that a great majority of the -citizens of the United States are in sympathy with France and -their prayers are for your success and freedom. - -It may not be out of place in this connection to mention, although -somewhat personal, that when Lafayette, visited the United States -in 1824, my grandfather, whose name I bear, attended a reception -given the great Frenchman in Philadelphia, and has often told me -about it, dwelling upon the enthusiasm with which Lafayette was -everywhere greeted during his triumphant tour through the country. -I have also in my autograph collection a three page patriotic -letter written by Lafayette in 1824 during his visit. I prize this -letter most highly. - -Another fact I may mention, and it gives me profound pleasure to do -so. France, in spite of her troubles, carried out her compact, and -sent to the Panama-Pacific Exposition at San Francisco, a -magnificent collection of paintings and sculpture. Many examples of -both were loaned from the Luxembourgh, and there were a number of -pieces of priceless sculpture by Rodin, your great sculptor, whose -work is famous the world over. The exhibit also contained many -notable examples of work by other French and Belgian artists. After -the exhibition closed we were fortunate enough to have the -collection exhibited at my home, Youngstown, Ohio, for a period of -thirty days, under the auspices of The Mahoning Institute of Art. -We were told that some of the examples were for sale, and if sold, -the proceeds would help the artists, and assist in the great work -being carried on to aid the hospitals of France. We, therefore, -made a common cause, buying a number of paintings and one piece of -sculpture, thus doing our bit to help the good work along, besides -securing for our country some splendid examples of the art of -France. The exhibit was obtained through the courtesy of Monsieur -Jean Guiffrey, Minister of Fine Arts in France, and to whom we are -profoundly grateful. In this connection I may add that the United -States is largely indebted to France for influence upon American -art. Nearly all of our great painters and sculptors received their -initial education in France and the influence upon American art and -artists by French masters is incalculable. This is one of the debts -of the United States to France which can never be fully repaid. - -The commission is in France, first, bearing America's good will, -and second, to investigate and render such substantial aid to -France as may be in our power, having in mind always the great -friendship existing between the two republics, and which we hope -our mission will strengthen. We venture to hope that our journey -through France in war time will also result in the increased -exchange of commodities between the two countries, a consummation -devoutly to be wished. - -I thank you, gentlemen, from the bottom of my heart and bid you God -speed in the great work of saving France. - -At this noted banquet there were several generals present, some of whom -had been in the service but a short time previous, and one of them -famous the world over. We were not permitted to mention the names of any -of the generals we met while in the war zone. - - - - -XII. - -WITHIN SOUND OF THE GUNS - - -On Wednesday, October 4th, we left for the front in military -automobiles. We passed through a farming district and through several -small villages. Nearly all who were at work in the fields were women. It -all seemed quite peaceful, considering that the battle fields were so -near. We stopped at Monte Billiard, in the Champagne district, where we -were addressed by the mayor and a response was made by Mr. Pfeiffer. -Cuvier, the great French scientist, was born here in the year 1769, and -died in 1832. We were now, as I should have mentioned before, in that -part of Alsace-Lorraine again in possession of the French. We visited at -Monte Billiard, a Fifteenth century castle and a new hospital. Red Cross -girls were very much in evidence, a number of them American and English. -We were quartered at the Hotel de la Balanie, built in 1790. We visited -the factory of Japy Freres. This concern makes a specialty of steel -helmets, canteens and porcelain ware for the use of the army. - -We arrived at Beaucort at midnight, and after settling down to rest, -were awakened by the booming of cannon, which was continuous during the -night. We were aroused the following morning by the town crier, passing -along the street, wearing a peculiar uniform, beating a drum and calling -out the news. - -At Beaucort we were shown through a castle now occupied as a hospital. -It was originally a chateau, and at that time a citadel with moat and -draw-bridge. - -In company with Mr. Warren, I visited the village blacksmith, being -reminded of my boyhood days. He had old-fashioned bellows and, with an -assistant, was in a small way finishing up some work for the army. - -We arrived at Belfort at about noon, and first saw the "Belfort Lion" by -Bartholdi, the sculptor of the Statue of Liberty in New York Harbor. It -is seventy-three feet long, forty-three feet high and is carved in a -cliff below the citadel. This statue celebrates the stubborn resistance -of the town of Belfort, which has never surrendered, although besieged -on numerous occasions. Belfort has been exposed to German guns, less -than ten miles away, for two years, and it is much shattered from -bombardments. Many of the citizens are still engaged in their ordinary -pursuits, but live in the cellars of their domiciles. - -We were quartered at the Le Grande Hotel, and could hear the cannons -roaring as we sat at luncheon. We were warned not to go out of the hotel -without a companion. There was a cave underneath with both an inside and -an outside entrance and we were told that in case the shelling was -resumed we should get into this cave. There had been, however, no -shelling for eight days. The town was shelled immediately after the -departure of the Canadian Industrial Commission, which had recently -visited Belfort. - -[Illustration: The Lion of Belfort.] - -The shutters of the hotel were closed at six P. M. I was taken to my -room by the chambermaid and handed a candle and a box of matches. With -all the lights of the hotel out, the cannon could be heard booming -during the entire night. Belfort is under martial law, or, as it is -called in France, military control. Just before retiring for the night -we were reminded that the city was frequently shelled and that nearly -all the inhabitants slept in the caves, a pleasant thought to go to bed -with. However, strange to say, I had a most excellent night's rest. - -No one was permitted outside the hotel unless he had with him a card to -show the police of the town. - -Belfort contains numerous monuments. One series of statues is of three -generals who defended Belfort during the three sieges successfully -resisted. Two of these sieges occurred during the time of Napoleon and -one during the Franco-Prussian war, 1870-1871. We walked about in a -body, escorted by a military officer and a number of soldiers. We -visited a large part of the city and at nearly every corner there were -signs showing the entrances to caves and stating the number of persons -each cave would hold--all the way from twenty to seventy. Evidence was -all around of bombs dropped from aeroplanes by the Germans and shells -fired by them from many miles away, there being hundreds of shattered -windows and holes in the sidewalks. - -We remained in Belfort two nights. The morning after our departure the -city was bombarded and some fifteen or twenty people killed. - -On Friday, October 6th, we left Belfort in the military autos, under -sealed orders, and knew not where we were going. We passed several -squads of German prisoners, among them one very large company. We were -frequently challenged by sentinels in passing, for miles, along the -front of Alsace-Lorraine. - -Alsace-Lorraine has had forty-five years of German rule. The elder -people are not Germanized, and it is quite evident that France will not -be satisfied until the whole province has been restored. - -We stopped for luncheon at Remiremont, in the Vosges mountains, and -while here visited an old church dating back to the Eleventh century. -This church contained, among other things, a statue of the Virgin Mary -carved in cedar, the gift to the church of Charlemagne. There is also at -this place a Thirteenth century arcade, through which we passed. We -bought a few relics and then left Remiremont at 4:30 P. M. for a dash -into Alsace and close up to the battle-front. - -We arrived at Bussane at 5 P. M., after being held up several times. We -next reached Thann, a village once in German hands and two miles from -the German lines. This town had been bombarded by the Germans early in -the war. The destruction was fearful to look at; buildings were damaged -beyond repair, and one church nearly ruined. As we passed along in a -dense fog, one of the guides ran past each machine saving; "Shentlemen, -this is a beautiful sight, but you can't see it." - -At Thann we were shown the spot where the son of Prime Minister Borthon, -of France, was killed by a bomb. - -After an inspection of Thann, we drove to Gerardmere to spend the night. -It was bright moonlight and we were told there was a great deal of -danger from German aeroplanes. This was a long night ride, but -considered much safer than going through this part of the country in -day-light. - -We experienced great difficulty in getting back to the French line from -Alsace-Lorraine. In doing so we passed through a tunnel entering -Alsace-Lorraine territory, within a half-mile of the German firing line. -We saw a hill which has been taken and retaken a number of times and was -then in possession of the Germans. We were exposed to the German guns -for half an hour and could hear the roaring constantly. At this point -the soldier chauffeurs put on steel helmets and placed revolvers near -their right hands, taking from boxes in the machine a number of hand -grenades. This was all very cheerful for the occupants of the car to -witness, inasmuch as we did not have any helmets or hand grenades or -anything else which would enable us to help ourselves in case of -conflict. - -We reached Gerardmere in time for dinner and stopped over night at the -Hotel de la Providence. This was a most interesting French village. We -were called the advance guard of tourists and were really the first to -have visited the place. Signs of war could be seen everywhere. We saw -here pontoon wagons. We also saw immense loads of bread being hauled -around in army wagons and looking like loads of Bessemer paving block. -During the night of our stay in Gerardmere, we were awakened by the -booming of cannons. - -We left Gerardmere, going north and, passing a hill named "Bonhomme", -over which French and Germans have fought back and forward. It is now in -possession of both forces, armies being entrenched on either side of the -hill and within one mile of the summit. - -We passed through a number of small villages completely riddled; one -village had but a single house left untouched. - -Our next stop was at St. Die. This is the village where the word -"Amerique" was first used in France. A tablet recalls this -circumstance, the wording on it being as follows: - - Here the 15th April 1507 has - been printed the "Cosmographic - Introduction" where, for the first - time the New Continent has - been named "America." - -Leaving St. Die we began a trip of more than fifty miles along the -battle front. This trip required two days, and we were never beyond the -sound of the guns. - -Our first stop was at the battlefield of La Chipotte, where was fought -one of the most sanguinary of the earlier battles of war, resulting in a -great French victory, but entailing terrific losses on both sides. In -the greater part of this region we saw forests which had been stripped -by shells and the trees of which were only beginning to grow again. In -some places they will never grow, having been stripped of every leaf and -limb and finally burned by the awful gunfire. - -The battle of La Chipotte was fought in 1914. Sixty thousand French -drove back a larger army of Germans after several days of fighting. The -French loss was thirty thousand, and no one knows what the German loss -amounted to. The woods are filled with crosses marking burial places, -where often as many as fifty bodies were entombed together. The French -buried their dead separately from the German dead, but the community -graves are all marked in the same way--with a simple cross. Some of -these crosses recite the names of the companies engaged, but few of them -give the names of the dead. Most of them simply record the number of -French or Germans buried beneath. - -At a central part of the battlefield the French have erected a handsome -monument, with the following inscription: - - "They have fallen down silently - like a wall. - May their glorious souls guide - us in the coming battles." - -After leaving the battlefield of La Chipotte, we next reached the -village of Roan Estape. It was full of ruins and practically deserted. -Beyond this village we passed for miles along roads lined on either side -with the crosses which indicate burial places of soldiers. The battle -front here extended for a long distance and the fighting was bloody -along the whole line. Much of this righting was done in the old way, -trench warfare having only just begun. - -[Illustration: Battlefield of La Chipotte, Showing Monument and Markers -on Graves.] - -Next we came to Baccarat, where nearly all the houses and the cathedral -were utterly wrecked. For twenty miles beyond this town we passed along -the battle front of the Marne, within three miles of where the main -struggle had taken place, and saw everywhere graves and signs of -destruction. It was surprising how the country had begun to resume its -normal aspect and green things begun to take hold again. Our next stop -was Rambevillers, where we had luncheon at the Hotel de la Porte. - - - - -XIII. - -THE STORY OF GERBEVILLER - - -After luncheon at Rambevillers, we drove to the famous village of -Gerbeviller--or rather to what is left of it. This little town is talked -of more than any other place in France, and is called the "Martyr City". -Its story is one of the most interesting told us, and to me it seemed -one of the most tragic, although the residents of the town all wanted to -talk about it with pride. While on the way to Gerbeviller we had to show -our passes, and it was lucky they were signed by General Joffre, since -nothing else goes so close to the front. We were made to tell where we -were going, how long we meant to stay, and what route we would take -coming back. - -Prefect Mirman, of the Department of Meurthe and Moselle, one of the -most noted and most useful men in France, escorted the commission on -this trip. - -Gerbeviller is located near the junction of the valleys of Meurthe and -Moselle, and occupied a strategic situation at the beginning of the war. -This and the heroic defense made of the bridge by a little company of -French soldiers, was, the French believe, responsible for its barbarous -treatment by the Germans. In the other ruined towns the destruction was -wrought by shell fire. Here the Germans went from house to house with -torches and burned the buildings after resistance had ceased and they -were in full possession of the town. The French say it was done in -wanton revenge and it looks as if that were true. Here is the story as -it was told to us in eager French and interpreted for us by one of the -party. - -A bridge leading from the town crosses the river to a road which goes -straight up a long hill to a main highway leading to Luneville, five -miles away. We passed over this bridge and were asked to note its -width--only enough to permit the passage of one car at a time. Two roads -converge at it and lead to the little town. - -During one of the important conflicts an army of 150,000 Germans was -sent around by way of Luneville to cross the river at Gerbeviller and -fall upon the right flank of the French army. The French had been able -to spare but few troops for this point, but they had barricaded the -streets of the town and posted a company of chasseurs, seventy-five in -number, at the bridge with a mitralleuse. This was an excellent -position, as there was a small building there which screened the -chasseurs from view. - -[Illustration: Ruins of Gerbeviller.] - -At 8 o'clock in the morning the German advance body, twelve thousand -strong, appeared at the intersection of the road near the top of the -hill across the river. They advanced in solid formation, marching in -the goose step and singing, to the music of a band, their war hymn, -"Deutchland Uber Alles." It was a beautiful morning and the sun -glistened on the German helmets as they came down the slope, an -apparently innumerable army. In this form they reached the end of the -bridge opposite to where the chasseurs were located. The captain of that -little band of French ordered them to halt, and they did so, the rear -ranks closing up on those in front before the order could be passed -along by their commander. - -In a moment, however, the column began to move again and then the -captain of the chasseurs waved his hand and the mitralleuses opened on -the advancing host. The range was point blank and there was absolutely -no protection. The hail of bullets mowed down the Germans and they broke -ranks, fleeing back up the hill and out of range. - -All was quiet for half an hour and then a detachment of cavalry, -evidently ordered to rush the bridge, came down at a gallop, having been -formed in the shelter of a road branching off the main highway a short -distance from the bridge. They were met by a hail of bullets and nearly -all went down before they reached the bridge, while the few who did so -fell on it or tumbled, with their horses, into the river. - -The whole German force was delayed until a battery could be brought up -from the rear and trained on the small building sheltering the chasseurs -and their machine guns. For some reason, the gunners could not get the -range on this small building, and after firing a few shots in its -direction, turned their guns on the magnificent chateau, a short -distance down the river. At this point there was a small foot bridge, -and the German commander evidently meant to try to rush it. Before doing -so, however, he was going to make certain that the Chateau, which -commanded it, did not conceal another band of defenders. This seems to -be the only explanation for the bombardment of the Chateau, which was -one of the finest country homes in France and entirely unoccupied. At -any rate, they fired shell after shell at the building. I secured a -picture of this which shows the work of the guns. - -But, as the French tell the story, no effort was then made to cross the -foot bridge below the town. A battery was swung down the hill to the end -of the bridge, apparently to shell the defenders from that point. The -machine guns barked again and every man with the battery fell. Scores -more were killed before it could be withdrawn and the way cleared. Owing -to the steep banks it seemed hard for the Germans to locate a battery in -an unexposed position, and they considered again. Finally they shelled -the Chateau some more and then sent a detachment to take that bridge, -expecting to get around in the rear of the chasseurs. A machine gun had -been sent to the footbridge in the meantime, and the Germans did not -get across it until the ammunition ran out and two hundred of them were -killed. When they did cross, the little band at the main bridge, of whom -one had been killed and six wounded, retreated to the main army, and -then the Germans crossed in force and started to burn the town. - -The heroes of the bridge had held the German advance guard, numbering -12,000 men, from 8 in the morning until 4 in the afternoon, and in the -meantime the great battle they had expected to win had been fought and -lost. - -Naturally the Germans were angry, and apparently they vented their -spleen upon the village. The great Chateau, its pride and chief -attraction, had been destroyed, but the conquerors at once begun to burn -the little town, evidently determining to reserve only enough to make a -place for headquarters for their general. They did burn it, but not so -completely as they had intended. - -[Illustration: Sister Julie.] - -Here is where Sister Julie comes in. Sister Julie is the most popular -woman in France as well as the most famous. We heard of her long before -we got to Gerbeviller and long after we left, but we were not fortunate -enough to meet her, as she was away at the time the Commission reached -the town. Although a member of a religious order, she has been decorated -with the grand cross of the Legion of Honor--the highest decoration -France confers upon her heroes. To pin this on her habit President -Poincaire journeyed all the way from Paris with his suite, and now -Sister Julie will not wear it. She says that religeuse do not wear -decorations--they are doing the work of the Lord. - -In describing Sister Julie and her work the people of Gerbeviller are -even more enthusiastic than in recounting the manner in which -seventy-five Frenchmen stopped twelve thousand Germans. It seems that -when the German forces crossed the bridge and began to burn the houses -they met with little resistance until they came to the convent where -Sister Julie and her companions had a house filled with wounded, -including the wounded chasseurs. The sister met them at the door and -defied them to burn her convent. She ordered them off and made a such a -show of determination that they went. No, they will tell you, these -French people, Sister Julie is not an Amazon. She is a little woman. Her -voice is usually mild and sweet and she smiles all the time. But when -they tried to burn her temporary hospital, it was different. She scared -them off and they did not come back. - -Not only that, but she made the Germans carry water and put out the -fires they had started in the neighborhood, and made them fill wash tubs -with water and leave them in her hall, so they would be handy if more -fires threatened. - -Besides that, she organized the men and went to the barns where cattle -had been burned and had these dressed and the meat prepared for use. -Then she made great kettles of soup and fed the people who had no homes -and nothing to eat. In all of this she defied the Germans and told their -commander to mind his own business--she was going to attend to hers. -When some of the German soldiers came and wanted to take the food -prepared for the homeless people, Sister Julie ordered them away and -made them go. - -There were five other nuns in this convent. Under the leadership of this -heroine they did a tremendous amount of good in the stricken community. -They used the building next door to the convent for a hospital and there -cared for hundreds of wounded soldiers. They assumed charge of the -demoralized town and kept the people from starving. No one gives them -greater credit than Prefect Mirman, who has also done great work in his -department. - -We were shown through the convent and hospital under the care of these -sisters, and saw many places where bullets had penetrated the walls, -these were fired by the Germans after they crossed the bridge. In this -hospital the sisters cared for the German wounded as tenderly as for the -French, and they won the respect of the invaders in this way, otherwise -it would have probably been impossible for them to do the work they did. -We saw the camp chair on which Sister Julie sat all night in front of -the hospital and kept the Germans out. - -The Commission spent the greater part of the day in Gerbeviller, -visiting the bridge where the seventy-five chasseurs held up the German -advance, as well as that where one lone chasseur--a regular "Horatio at -the Bridge", kept back the attacking party at the Chateau. - -We went through this chateau, which is owned by a resident of Paris and -was one of the sights of the village. It is seven or eight hundred years -old and is a very large building, handsomely finished in the interior. -Before the bombardment, which was a ruthless and unnecessary piece of -vandalism, it contained many fine tapestries and countless precious -heirlooms of the Bourbon times. The great strength of the walls resisted -the effects of artillery, but the interior was entirely ruined by fire. -The grand marble staircase was splintered, but the Bourbon coat of arms -above it was not touched. Strewn about in corners and on the floors were -fragments of vases and art work that must have been priceless. Even -these fragments were valuable. We secured a number of small pieces, some -of which I brought home as relics. - -While viewing the ruins of the chateau we could hear the guns booming. -It was while we were still here that we received news that bombs had -been dropped on Belfort that morning, twenty-four hours after we left -that place, and that a number of persons had been killed, among them -some women and children. - -Gerbeviller is an almost complete ruin. Beyond the convent and hospital, -and a few buildings saved for headquarters for the commanding general by -the Germans, all the rest of the town was destroyed. The people who -remain there are living in temporary buildings or mere sheds built on -the ruins of their homes, which they do not want to leave under any -circumstances. This little town, which has won its place in history, was -one of the most interesting and melancholy sights we saw in all France. - -On the following day, Saturday, October 7th, we visited the villages of -Luneville and Vitrimont. We were now in the "devastated region" for -sure. On every hand was evidence of the ruin wrought by shells, with -long lines of trenches that had once been filled with soldiers. Some of -these were green again, but the trees presented a woeful appearance. - -The next stop after leaving Rambevillers was the little town of -Vitrimont. This is a small village in France, almost wholly ruined by -the Germans in 1914, preceding the battle of the Marne. We found there -Miss Daisy Polk, of San Francisco, a wealthy, young and attractive -woman, whose work is being financed largely by the Crockers, of San -Francisco. - -She is living in one of the small houses untouched by the Germans. She -has undertaken the rebuilding of the village of Vitrimont as a modern -sanitary proposition and to serve as a model for what may be done in -rebuilding all the destroyed parts of France. She is the -great-granddaughter of President Polk. It is a splendid work and should -receive support. - -I have since received the following letter from Miss Polk: - -* * * - -Vitrimont, par Luneville, Meurthe et -Moselle, France. -October 18th, 1916 - -Dear Mr. Butler:-- - -Your note, with the Commission booklet, received and I want to -thank you for remembering me. The visit of the Industrial -Commission was a most delightful surprise to me here in the midst -of my ruins and it is very nice to have a souvenir--especially such -a nice souvenir, with all the names and photographs. - -Vitrimont looks very much as it did when you were here except that -the work is a little more advanced in spite of the rain. We are not -hoping any longer that the war will end this winter--so we are sad. -Especially when we have to see our men go back to the front after -their all too short leaves. This has happened three times since you -were here, all three going back to the Somme, too, which they all -say is much worse than Verdun ever was. However, they have the -satisfaction, as one of our men said today, (a fine industrious -farmer) of hoping that if they don't come back, at least their -wives and children will have their homes rebuilt. This is my hope -too. Thanking you again for your letter. - -Very sincerely yours, - -(Signed) DAISY POLK. - -* * * - -Miss Polk is a most charming young woman, filled with enthusiasm. She -lives in a small house with but two rooms. - - - - -XIV. - -ON THE MAIN FRONT - - -We arrived at Nancy October 7th, at six o'clock P. M. and spent the -evening at a reception given by the Prefect L. Mirman. We met here Madam -Mirman and her two daughters. In the entrance to the prefect's residence -were several large holes which had been blown out by the German shells. -During the reception we were shown an embroidered sheet, filled with -holes. This was taken from the window of a hospital, fired on by the -Germans, July, 1916. The name of the hospital was Point Au Mousson. The -sheet was hanging in a window when the shrapnel was fired into it. This -was considered ample proof that the hospital was fired upon with the -full knowledge that it was a hospital. - -This visit to prefect Mirman's home was a red letter event in our trip. -He is one of the important men of France and is devoting much of his -time to the care of refugees and other good work. - -As we stopped at the entrance of Nancy, we saw an aeroplane flying over -the town. This aeroplane was intended to convoy us to our destination. - -Next day we were driven to the village of Luneville. At this place, as -in nearly all the towns of France, there is a public market house, with -stalls usually presided over by women. Late in September the Germans -dropped from aeroplanes a number of bombs on this market house. The -entire building was destroyed and forty-one women killed, besides a -number of children who were playing about. We saw the ruins of the -market house. This sort of battle waging is called "German terrorism", -otherwise, a "stepping stone to kultur". - -There is an immense palace in Luneville called the Palace of Stanislaus, -occupied by a former King of Poland. - -Our headquarters were at Nancy, where we remained for two days. We were -shown every possible attention by the prefect and under his guidance -visited various parts of the city. Among other places "The Golden Gates" -of Louis XVI and the gate of the old town erected in 1336. We visited -the park and were shown a hole where a German shell had penetrated, the -hole being fully fifty feet deep. We visited the cathedral of St. Elme -and were shown where the beautiful stained glass had been blown out of -the windows. We visited the Ducal Chapel, which dates back to the Tenth -century, where the princes of the House of Hapsburg are entombed. Sand -bags were piled up everywhere to prevent further ruin to this ancient -place. We were shown the ruins of the cooking school reported by -German aviators as a military building and for that reason destroyed. - -[Illustration: Cathedral at Nancy.] - -Practically one-half of the town is in ruins. The military barracks are -now used for housing and caring for refugees from all over France and -this is done with great system. The expense is figured down to one franc -per day for each person. We saw there a children's school, playground, -orphanage and Cinema show, and attended church services at which were -present several thousand refugees. We could hear the cannon booming -during the entire services. Many of the refugees were at work making -bags for the trenches and embroidering. We visited the museum and were -shown tombs and urns dating back to the Second century. During a -luncheon at the Cafe Stanislaus an impassioned address was made by the -prefect. - -We left Nancy at 2 P. M. for Chalons on the Marne, one of the three -important military supply centers of France. En-route we passed a number -of ruined villages with scarcely a house left and with but few -inhabitants. We passed through Bar Le Duc also, another distributing -center. On this memorable part of the journey we skirted three battle -fronts, Verdun, Somme and the Marne. We noticed numerous trench soldiers -in squads, enroute to and from the trenches. - -The discipline of the French army is very much different from that of -the English and Germans. The officers and the French soldiers are -comrades. The German and French soldiers have no tents, they sleep in -their overcoats. I expected that when we got into the war zone we would -see tents everywhere, but there was not a tent in sight. - -The distance from Nancy to Chalons on the Marne is 108 miles. All this -distance we travelled close in the rear of the French army and much of -it near the German army. In the early part of the year this ground was -occupied by the Germans, being afterwards retaken by the French. We were -closest to the trenches when passing St. Miheil, where the famous German -salient was still held. - -We reached Chalons on the Marne at 10 o'clock on the evening of October -8th, after a busy and most interesting day. We were quartered here for -the night and remained part of the next morning. During our stay we -could hear the booming of guns continuously, and saw many evidences of -military occupation. At this time the Germans had been forced back about -thirty miles from Chalons on the Marne, and their shells were no longer -feared in this immediate vicinity. The cannon we heard along the greater -portion of the route after passing Bar Le Duc must have been French -guns, although the German big guns can be heard for fifty miles under -favorable circumstances. - -At Chalons on the Marne an incident occurred which made a deep -impression on me, although it was in itself simple enough. It was my -custom to go about much seeking to see whatever was to be seen at all of -our stops. Usually I had a companion, but sometimes went alone. On this -occasion Mr. Warren, of the Commission, was with me. We had entered the -Cathedral of Notre Dame, to inspect its interior and arrived just as a -funeral service was ending. It was one of those pathetic funerals, now -common enough in France, at which the body is not present, in this case -being that of a young man killed in the army and evidently an only son. - -The services ended with a procession around the church and this brought -the mourners to where we were. We fell in with them, this being our -natural impulse and also, we believed, the proper and courteous thing to -do, rather than to rudely retire. When the party reached the main aisle, -the friends gathered around the father and mother and two daughters, -weeping with them and kissing them in the demonstrative way the French -have of showing both grief and affection. Before we knew just what to -do, the mourners melted away, taking with them the mother and daughters. -Mr. Warren also had disappeared and I was left practically alone with -the father of the dead boy. He approached me and extended his hand, -having perhaps read in my face something of my feelings. He knew no -English and I knew no French, but the language of human sympathy is -universal. We grasped hands and the only word uttered was my crude -"Americaine." None other was needed. I could tell by the pressure of the -hand holding mine that my sympathy was appreciated, even though I was -from across the seas and an utter stranger, and any doubts I had felt -about the propriety of remaining were thoroughly dispelled. - -[Illustration: German Trenches Captured by the French.] - -Funerals such as this are very frequent in France. Scarcely a family but -has suffered its loss, and in some cases several sons have been taken -from one home. Among the hundreds of personal cards brought back with me -from France, an astonishing number are bordered deeply with black. These -are the cards of the most prominent people in the places we visited, the -members of the Commission having met few others, and the mourning border -on so many of them shows that in France as well as in England, the upper -classes have borne their full share of the terrific toll levied by the -war. - -Before leaving Chalons on the Marne we visited the canal, the banks of -which were lined with flowers and ivy. We crossed here a bridge built in -the Seventeenth century and still in good condition. - - - - -XV. - -REIMS AND THE TRENCHES - - -Some time during the forenoon of the day following our arrival at -Chalons on the Marne we left in the military automobiles for Reims. This -city is on the south branch of the river Aisne, on which the Germans -made their stand after the battle of the Marne, and had been within -reach of their guns constantly since they stopped retreating after that -battle. It is about ninety miles from Paris. The city was at that time -less than two miles from the actual battle line, trenches extending -close up to its edges. The Germans were very busy and there was abundant -evidence of the fact in the sound of cannon. It was here that we were to -be allowed a visit to the trenches. - -On the way we passed a large number of Hindu-Chinese and Russian -soldiers. We saw two captive balloons, used by the French to direct -artillery fire on their enemies. Thousands of soldiers were coming and -going between the trenches and the encampments behind. - -On this trip we passed through and stopped briefly at an aviation camp, -where the aviators were tending their machines and waiting to be called -for duty in the air. A short stop was also made at a large encampment, -where there must have been at least twenty thousand French soldiers. -This was the largest number we saw at any one time. Here we were shown -concealed trenches and batteries so skillfully hidden that they could -not be seen until you were right upon the guns. We also saw on this ride -several illustrations of how bridges and other military works can be -hidden from aviators by painted scenery and the use of trees. By 11 A.M. -of this day we had come within five miles of the German trenches, behind -which, we were told, were more two million German soldiers and across -from them at least an equal number of French. Of this vast number of -warriors we saw at no time more than twenty thousand. Many were in the -trenches and others in encampments on both sides, within easy reach of -the lines but secure from gun fire. - -We came to the top of a ridge near Reims, and just before reaching the -summit orders were given by the sentinels to separate the automobiles -and run them half a mile apart, as they would be within range of German -guns and might draw the fire if seen in a company. At this point two -members of the Commission suddenly lost their interest in the scenes -ahead and refused to go any further. From this time until we entered -Reims, batteries, many of them concealed, with other signs of real war, -became more numerous. - -[Illustration: The Reims Cathedral Before Its Destruction.] - -At 11:30 A. M. we entered the famous Champagne district, known all over -the world as the locality where grapes for making champagne can be -raised better than anywhere else. We saw here farmers and women working -in the fields and vineyards within a mile of the actual front. They were -within range of German guns and in great danger, but they worked on, -seemingly careless of the fact. - -We passed many "dugouts" occupied by soldiers, and saw soldiers digging -trenches. All the time the guns were roaring, apparently just beyond the -city of Reims. This ground had all been at one time in the hands of the -Germans. - -We reached Reims at noon and were taken direct to the City Club. Here -the Commission was entertained by Robert Lewthwaite, the head of the -great wine firm of Heidsick & Company. At this luncheon we met Col. -Tautot, chief of staff under General Lanquelot, commander in the Reims -sector. Col. Tautot represented his superior, who could not be present, -probably because of more important engagements with the Germans. We also -met Captain Talamon, a staff officer, and Jacques Regnier, sub-prefect -of the Reims district. Col. Tautot had been invested with the ribbon of -the Legion of Honor and within a week of our visit had been in active -service. Out of fifteen members originally on the staff, he alone -survived, all the others having been killed in action or died of wounds. - -In the room where luncheon was served at the City Club was a great hole, -made through the wall by a shell and not yet closed. We were told that -this shell had arrived a few days before our visit. This was quite -appetizing information, but our hosts assured us that we were -comparatively safe, as there had been no firing for some time. I took -their word for it and enjoyed the luncheon after the long and keenly -interesting ride. At this luncheon a curious toast was offered by the -host--"I looks toward you." The proper response was--"I likewise bows." - -After the luncheon Colonel Tautot and the sub-prefect led the Commission -to inspect the ruined cathedral. This was a pitiful and fascinating -sight. This once famous cathedral is practically a wreck. I doubt very -much if it can ever be restored. We were taken into the interior and -were shown how wonderful stained glass windows had been blown out. We -picked up a number of the pieces of fine glass from the ground. The -making of this glass is a lost art and the coloring is most beautiful. I -brought home some of the glass and had it used as settings for a number -of rings which I presented to friends. The sub-prefect presented me, as -a relic, a bone--the front part of a forearm. This cathedral was the -burying place of number of archbishops and ancient royal personages, -and all these tombs were blown up. - -[Illustration: Ruins at Reims. Upper and Lower Plates--The Cathedral. -Middle Plate--The Archbishop's Palace.] - -Adjoining the cathedral was the archbishop's palace, famous the world -over, and its contents priceless. This was utterly destroyed. One of our -party, in looking about the ruins, picked up a large sized key, which -proved afterwards to be the key to the archbishop's residence. He was -given permission by the sub-prefect to retain this, and I subsequently -acquired it. - -We also visited the market place and the old Notre Dame church built in -1149 by Charlemagne. This was a most beautiful church, the windows -almost equalling those of the Cathedral of St. Elme at Nancy, but -inferior to those in the Reims cathedral, said to have been the most -beautiful in the world. In this church we saw a statue of Jeanne D'Arc, -and a very fine painting of the "Ascension". - -We were taken to the city hospital at Reims, which had been fired upon -and almost completely destroyed by the Germans while occupied by French -wounded. The range was obtained by the aviators, and then incendiary -bombs were fired. These bombs set fire to the buildings with which they -came in contact. We were told that hundreds of French soldiers were -killed with this mode of warfare. We could hear the bombs on the Aisne -front exploding while we were visiting the ruins of the hospital. We -were next shown around to view the ruins of the town. Twenty-five -hundred acres of houses were almost blown to pieces. We were told that -thousands of bodies of men, women and children were still under the -ruins. In an isolated part of these ruins, absolutely alone, we found -and talked to an old French woman, still occupying her house. She had -refused to move and insisted upon staying in her little home, one or two -rooms having been left. - -Following this visit to the ruins we were permitted to enter the -trenches. A number of the party did not go to the end of the trenches. -However, I concluded to see all there was to be seen, and with Deputy -Damour and Mr. MacArthur, went, escorted by a staff officer detailed for -that duty, to the extreme limit. We went through the trenches to within -one thousand feet of the German firing lines. We could see the German -sentinels through periscopes, and were told to be careful and not show -our heads, which admonition was religiously obeyed. - -This visit to the trenches was one of the most interesting parts of the -trip, and in spite of the danger, I was very glad that I had gone and -had nerve enough to go to the limit. We entered what is known as a -"communication" trench, leading from the edge of the city toward the -front. This was necessary, as the terrain was open and under range of -the German guns. Going down through this long trench we encountered a -network of others, apparently leading in all directions. Our guide knew -them well and led us forward until we could, by means of a contrivance -for that purpose, look over the top and see the German trenches, less -than one thousand yards away. We saw few German soldiers, although -occasionally we were shown where a sentinel was on duty, carefully -concealed to save himself from French bullets. - -The trenches in this section are irregular in width and depth. As a -general thing they are not more than three feet wide at the bottom and -about five feet deep. The earth is thrown up at the side next to the -enemy. At short intervals along the trench holes are scooped out, into -which the soldiers can go when fighting is not actually in progress. -Some of these caves were quite large and had in them straw and sometimes -a bench. There were cooking utensils and buckets for water. The bottoms -of the trenches are generally dry, or were when we saw them. In some -places they have boards on the bottom. The sides are steep and are -constantly crumbling. - -Some of the trenches we entered had been made by the Germans, others by -the French. Those close up to the front seemed to have been dug but a -short time, but farther back they were already beginning to look -ancient. In some places grass was growing in the sides and here and -there flowers. Some of these trenches had not been used to any extent -during the summer. They are so arranged that each line is connected with -the one in its front and rear by cross trenches, and it is through these -that the soldiers enter and leave the actual fighting zone. - -[Illustration: Key of Archbishop's Palace at Reims and Bone from Twelfth -Century Tombs Opened by German Shells.] - -We saw many French soldiers in the trenches. They seemed to be well fed -and comfortable. At the time we were there there was no actual fighting, -of course, but an occasional shot rang out across "no man's land," when -sentries on either side thought they saw a chance to do execution. The -ground between Reims and the battle line is a complete network of these -trenches, and years will be required to level it again after the war is -over. - -From the advanced trench toward the German lines, at the points where we -looked, there was no sign of war except an occasional shell hole and the -barbed wire entanglements. The country was green and seemed to be at -peace, except for the sound of the guns. It was hard to believe that we -were looking across a narrow strip, on the other side of which were -millions of armed men and every form of death and destruction that has -been invented. Yet all this was there. - -Upon coming out of the trenches we were unable to find our automobiles, -the military authorities having ordered them to separate, so that they -would not prove an attraction to the German aeroplanes, otherwise they -would undoubtedly have been fired upon. - -[Illustration: Trenches Visited by the Commission] - -Following this visit to the trenches, we were taken to the famous wine -cellars of Heidsick & Co., containing twelve miles of underground -vaults. A few days previous to our visit a German bomb had struck the -Heidsick wine cellar and destroyed forty thousand bottles of champagne, -believed to be the largest number of bottles opened at any one time in -the history of the world. These vaults, during the bombardments, which -were numerous, are a safety place for the inhabitants and thousands take -refuge in the wine cellars. We were told that there was not a single -bottle of champagne missed, a testimony to the honesty of the French -people. This visit to the wine cellars was intensely interesting. - -While driving about the ruined town, the automobile in which I happened -to be was guided by a chauffeur unfamiliar with the location, and he -drove us across the German lines within three minutes ride of the German -headquarters. The major in charge of the automobile squad discovered the -error. We were told afterwards that we had a narrow escape from being -made prisoners. While at Reims we were at all times within twenty-five -minutes walk of the Germans and within ten minutes ride in the motor. - -The population at Reims before the war was one hundred and eighteen -thousand. It is now reduced to eighteen thousand, the other hundred -thousand having become refugees, soldiers and "missing". We visited a -Twelfth century cathedral which, strange to say, had not been touched. -While in this cathedral we could hear the guns booming. - -We returned to Chalons on the Marne the same evening, arriving there at -8:30 P.M., it being considered unsafe to remain at Reims. After our -dinner at Chalons on the Marne, Dr. Mailloux timed the firing of the -cannon and announced that for a space of half an hour there was one -fired every two seconds. - -We left Chalons on the Marne at 11:30 A.M. on the following day by -railroad. The train was filled with officers returning from the front. -We saw a number of Red Cross girls on this train. One had a double -decoration. As we passed along we saw thousands of soldiers enroute to -the front, among them one full regiment. We also saw a large detachment -of German prisoners being transferred, with the letters "P. G." quite -large on the back of each prisoner. "P. G." means prison garb. - -In the railroad trains in both England and France appears the -following:-- - - Be Silent! - Be watchful! - Hostile ears are listening to you! - Issued by the Minister of War. - - - - -XVI. - -BACK TO PARIS - - -We arrived at Paris at three o'clock P.M., October 17th, and here -received our first news of the submarine work off Nantucket. In the -evening we met Antoine Borrel, deputy from Savoy, on six days' leave of -absence from the Alsace Lorraine district. He entered the war a common -soldier and now has the Legion of Honor on his breast. - -On Wednesday, October 11th, we visited Consul Thackara and arranged -about our passports. - -I succeeded in securing some fine war relics and a partial line of -French war posters which I brought home with me. - -On Thursday, October 12th, with Mr. Weare, of the United States Steel -Corporation, I called upon Consul Thackara, Charge d'Affairs Bliss, and -other friends at the Embassy. We also visited the general offices of the -Schneider Company. - -On Friday, October 13th, a meeting of the Commissioners was held and, -although our passage had been engaged on the Rochambeau of the French -line, it was decided to cancel the passage and return to America by way -of the American line. This was a disappointment to some of the -Commissioners, although the change appeared to be inevitable. The -secretary of the Commission then set about to get us safely across the -Channel. We were told we would be convoyed by a British vessel, usually -used in carrying soldiers. We were fed on this information for three -days, telegrams were sent to the American Embassy in London and a lot of -valuable time wasted. The whole scheme proved to be a myth, and we were -obliged to content ourselves with getting to England the same as -ordinary mortals. - -On Friday, October 13th, Charge d'Affairs Bliss gave a luncheon to some -of the members of the Commission, and this was an enjoyable affair. - -We were informed in the evening that accommodations had been secured on -the steamer "Philadelphia", of the American line, sailing October 21st, -from Liverpool. Deputy Damour was greatly disappointed, as he had -planned a farewell dinner at Bordeaux and great preparations had been -made by the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce for this event. - -An informal supper was given Deputy Damour at the Hotel de Crillon at -which some of the members of the Commission were present. - -[Illustration: King Albert's address to the Belgians when he took -command of the army - -A neighbour haughty in its strength without the slightest provocation -has torn up the treaty bearing its signature and has violated the -territory of our fathers because we refused to forfeit our honor. It has -attacked us. Seeing its independence threatened the nation trembled and -its children sprang to the frontier, valiant soldiers in a sacred cause. -I have confidence in your tenacious courage. I greet you in the name of -Belgium a fellow citizen who is proud of you. - -King Albert's Address to the Belgians.] - -Notwithstanding the war, we noticed some signs of gaiety in Paris. On -Saturday evening I visited the Follies Bergere, where there was fine -music and some dancing. The audience contained principally soldiers on -six days' leave of absence from the front. - -On Sunday, October 15th, we had a joint meeting with the American -Chamber of Commerce and discussed the tariff question, credits and other -things too numerous to mention. - -On Sunday afternoon I visited the American Ambulance for the third time. -I paid particular attention to the pathological department. I was shown -a piece of spine with an imbedded bullet visible, and other specimens -entirely too realistic for me to look at. I was shown an electric -apparatus for locating bullets and shells, without X-ray treatment, I -saw a badly wounded soldier undergoing the Carrel treatment. Dr. -Sherman, chief surgeon of the Carnegie Steel Company, had spent two -months in France investigating this treatment. He was most thoroughly -imbued with its usefulness and enthusiastic about introducing it in the -hospitals of the Steel Corporation in the United States. My own belief -is that this is an advanced stage in surgery and, in fact, is an epochal -discovery. It will no doubt be adopted, not only in the military -hospitals of the world, but in other hospitals. A description of the -treatment was furnished me by Dr. Lee, of the University of -Pennsylvania, who had spent several months in Paris hospitals, and also -by Mr. Bennet, who was the superintendent of the American ambulance. -These descriptions follow in later pages, the subject being of vast -importance to those interested in the cause of humanity. - -On Monday, October 16th, we met, at the Hotel de Crilion, the Belgian -Chamber of Commerce. This was a notable gathering. The president of the -Chamber of Commerce, Rene Nagelmackers, made a passionate and forceful -address, thanking all the United States for the aid and assistance -rendered the Belgians and setting forth their needs. He said a line of -vessels had already been arranged for and financed, and that it was the -intention of the Belgian Government to bring to France and deposit where -they could be quickly reached, machinery, tools and everything needed to -immediately rehabilitate Belgium. The intention was to have these in -readiness so that restoration can be promptly effected and all Belgians -returned to their native soil. The president and other members of the -Chamber expressed a belief that all Belgium will again be restored to -its rightful owners. On materials and machinery they will want fair -prices, but they will be in need of large quantities of these and the -United States will, on equal terms, be given the preference. A number of -other members of the Belgian Chamber of Commerce spoke, some of them in -English and some in French. Victor Haardt, a member residing temporarily -in Paris, suggested that the meeting was important and should be brought -to the attention of the Belgian Government. When it became known that -I was a personal acquaintance of King Albert, a number of the delegates -suggested that I write to him and give an account of the conference and -they would in turn write an official account of it. This I proceeded to -do, the King's military address having been furnished me by one of the -members. I gave the King in my letter full particulars of the meeting -and in response received the following letter from his secretary soon -after my arrival home: - -[Illustration: Photograph of King Albert of Belgium, with the Royal -Autograph.] - -* * * - -La Cambre, Belgium, October 29th, 1916. -Office of the Secretary to the King and Queen. - -Mr. J. G. Butler, Jr. -Youngstown, Ohio. - -Dear Sir:-- - -I was particularly pleased to read to his Majesty your good letter, -and to receive the pamphlet. - -I am charged by the King to thank you for the sentiments which you -have expressed and for your sympathy for Belgium. - -Our Sovereign wishes you to know that he recalls with pleasure the -meeting with the Directors of the American Iron and Steel Institute -at Brussels. - -I beg you to accept, dear sir, the assurance of my highest regards, - -J. INGENBLECK, Secretary. - -* * * - -I spent a good part of the following day in buying war relics, many of -them made by the soldiers in the trenches out of such material as -exploded shells, buttons from the uniforms of dead soldiers, etc. I -purchased some unique postal cards, painted by hand in the trenches by -soldiers who were artists. Other relics consisted of hat pins, napkin -rings, bracelets and finger rings, all made as before stated, from war -material. - -A copy of an English publication was brought to my attention during the -Belgian conference, and I was struck by a paragraph which is quoted:-- - -SUBMARINING AMERICA - -What Germany is Doing now is Submarining -the Monroe Doctrine and that is Submarining America. - -In this connection there was some discussion and I was surprised to -learn that the French, even those who are at the head of things, have a -very hazy idea of what the Monroe Doctrine is. I explained to them that -it was a statement made in a message to Congress by President Monroe in -1823, in which he laid down in a few words the principle that America, -because of her history and the form of government established in the -western world, was not a proper place for the exploitation of despotic -governments, and that any attempt on the part of European nations to -gain a foothold or to extend their territorial interests on the American -continent would be regarded as an act unfriendly to the United States. I -explained that this statement was never questioned and had become an -accepted principle. The explanation seemed to please the French and -Belgians to whom it was translated, and they apparently approve of the -idea. - -Coming back to America, by the way, I found that there was no occasion -to be surprised at lack of understanding of the Monroe Doctrine abroad, -as few of us understand just what it is at home. - -On October 17th, I visited the American Embassy and met there, among -others, Captain Eugene Rosetti, a captain in the Foreign Legion. This -Legion was recruited from friends of France who were not Frenchmen, but -largely Americans. When the war broke out this body was thirty-six -thousand strong, and on the date I talked with Captain Rosetti there -were but thirteen hundred survivors. The Foreign Legion was largely in -evidence at the early part of the war and stories of its bravery were -heard everywhere. - -In the evening Dr. Veditz made an address before the Commissioners, -telling of the work he was engaged in and what he had accomplished. - -On October 18th, the Commission gave a luncheon to Wilbur J. Carr, -Consul in Europe with headquarters in Washington. Some very plain talk -was in evidence as to the inefficiency of some of the American consuls. -Consul Carr delivered a very forceful address. He had been in the -consular service for nearly a quarter of a century and is working, with -much success, to better the service. - - - - -XVII. - -ON THE WAY HOME--ENGLAND - - -On this date, October 18th, the commission left Paris for Havre at 4:50 -P.M., its destination being London, by way of Southampton. We boarded -the boat at Havre after a very rigid inspection of passports, baggage, -etc. It was a rough night and many were seasick. The boat was crowded to -repletion and the trip was a very uncomfortable experience. We had been -escorted from Paris to Havre by Captain Sayles, of the American Embassy. -This was one of the many courtesies shown us by the American Embassy in -Paris under the direction of Robert Bliss, Charge d'Affaires, in the -absence of Ambassador Sharp. I had a very interesting talk with Captain -Sayles. His first question came out quickly and rather abruptly. "What -most impressed you on your trip?" I replied, without hesitation: "The -spirit of France and the morale of the French soldier and the French -people. All France is thinking and working and trying to do what they -can to help save France." Captain Sayles said it was a tradition that -when events required it, France always rose to the occasion and passed -the crisis successfully. He said also that the battle of the Marne, as -has been said previously by many others, settled the war. That the -Kaiser and the Prussian militants knew then they were beaten and have -been trying for a year and a half to find a way out. There is no doubt -in the opinion of Captain Sayles, that the German people are deceived -and still think that Germany will win the war. They are fed upon false -information. - -In this connection I had a talk with Allyn B. Carrick, an American who -had spent several months in Germany during the past year and had -recently returned from there. He was an American and understood German, -and was a good listener. He said the people in Germany are talking among -themselves, criticising the government, especially the Kaiser and the -Crown Prince, and he felt that some day something would happen which -would bring trouble. He said there was great distress all over Germany. -Mr. Carrick got his information by keeping his ears open in cafes, -railroad stations, hotels and passenger trains. - -When the conflict is over it is my judgment that international law will -be overhauled and some of the German methods of war on innocent women -and children will be eliminated, such as the shelling of non-combatants -and bomb-throwing. Terrorism in ghastly forms is now a part of the -German method of fighting the enemy. - -The Kaiser has for many years considered himself a Charlemagne, -Frederick the Great and Napoleon the First rolled into one. Results are -developing which put him in the class of Napoleon the Third, or even -below that monarch in ability. - -We arrived at Southampton on Thursday, October 19th, at 9 A.M. There was -much red tape in evidence and many questions asked the commissioners. We -were warned that no letters could be carried for delivery, and that a -violation of this order would result in arrest of anyone guilty. - -After some little delay and much needed assistance from friends of -America, our baggage was registered and incidentally "greased" through -to London. We arrived in London at 1 P.M. Considerable evidence was here -apparent of the recent visit of the Zeppelins. One had been captured and -partially destroyed, and I was fortunate in securing some pieces as -relics. I met here Dr. Sherman, who has been in close touch with and -assisted Alexander Carrel with reference to the Carrel technique, the -recent antiseptic discovered for wounds and injuries, used so -successfully for the prevention of blood poisoning. The fluid is a -solution of bleaching lime with bi-carbonate of soda, filtered or poured -through the wounds. Thousands of lives have been saved by this -discovery. The method has been adopted by the Italian, French and -Belgian governments, and is being considered by the English government. - -On the day following our arrival in London, I called upon Consul General -Skinner and found him busy at work. Inquiries resulted in receiving a -most excellent account of his stewardship. He is very much alive to -American interests. - -I also met H. W. Thornton, formerly a high official in the Pennsylvania -Railroad system, but now in charge of the Great Eastern Railroad in -England. He is an important personage, and, from information obtained, -has made good. He is one of the counsellors in close touch with the war -department. - -While in London we were at the Savoy hotel. I was struck by a notice -posted on the bedroom-door. - -DEFENCE OF THE REALM ACT. - -Important notice. - -Visitors occupying rooms are now held responsible by the -Authorities for the proper control of the lights in the rooms they -occupy. - -It is absolutely necessary that they should see that the blinds and -curtains of the rooms they occupy are closely drawn so that no -light can leak through. - -It is imperative also to switch off all lights before attempting to -open or close a window, if this necessitates drawing the blinds. - -These regulations apply to all rooms occupied, including bathrooms. - -I attended the Hippodrome in London, walking through the darkness -escorted by a friend. The show was pretty much with reference to the -war. I was attracted by the notice at the bottom of the program, which -is copied below. - -[Illustration: French Marines Operating 75-mm Gun on Shipboard.] - -Arrangements have been made that warning of a threatened air raid -will be communicated by the Military Authorities to this theatre. - -On receipt of any such warning the audience will be informed, with -a view to enable persons who may wish to proceed home, to do so. - -The warning will be communicated, so far as possible, at least 20 -minutes before any actual attack can take place. There will, -therefore, be no cause for alarm or undue haste. - -Those who decide to leave are warned not to loiter about the -streets, and if bombardment or gunfire commences before they reach -home, they should at once take cover. - -By order of The Commissioner of Police of the Metropolis. -New Scotland Yard, S. W. - -The anniversary of Trafalgar Day was celebrated while we were in London. -This was one of the most decisive battles in the history of the world. -As an English view of the battle of Trafalgar I copy below the editorial -from the Daily-Graphic, and might add, in my own words, that but for the -British navy our sea-coast cities, both on the Atlantic and Pacific, -might easily have been wiped out before this time. - -TRAFALGAR DAY - -To-day is the anniversary of one of the most decisive battles in -the history of the world. Our minds rest naturally enough on -Waterloo as the battle which finally destroyed Napoleon's power in -1815, to the great relief of France, as well as of all the rest of -Europe. But it was the battle of Trafalgar, ten years previously, -which secured to Great Britain the command of the sea and so -prepared the way for Napoleon's downfall. The same factors that -operated a century ago are operating today. There has been no -Trafalgar to wipe the enemy's ships off the sea, but our sea -supremacy was so well secured before the war began that the enemy -has only once ventured to challenge it, with disastrous results to -himself off the Jutland coast. The effect of British sea supremacy -has been felt from the first day of the war. We were able by our -intervention at once to prevent Germany from carrying out her -scheme of a naval descent on the French coast. The same sea-power -has since enabled us to transport in safety armies probably -aggregating over two million men to France, the Dardanelles, Egypt, -Mesopotamia, Salonica, the Cameroons and German East Africa. The -larger portion of these armies has naturally been drawn from the -United Kingdom, but large contingents have come from Canada, -Australia, India, South Africa and the West Indies. None of these -movements of troops would have been possible unless we had secured -the command of the sea. In addition, our sea supremacy has enabled -us to maintain our commerce with the whole of the world, while -blocking German commerce wherever we chose to use our power. The -British Navy is the force which has determined the final defeat of -Germany, and so long as we maintain that force at adequate strength -we can face without flinching any danger that may threaten us from -any part of the world. - -Saturday, October 21st, was the day of sailing from Liverpool. We left -London at 10:20 A.M. on the London & Northwestern Railroad for Liverpool -and arrived at the latter place at 2:30 P.M. We boarded the steamer -Philadelphia, of the American line, and noticed on the side of the boat -an immense American flag painted in colors, as well as the words -"American Line". There was also a row of electric lights, visible -several miles distant, surrounding the flag and the name of the boat. -There were five lights on each side of the boat and each light had five -incandescent bulbs, making fifty lights in all. The flag painted on the -side of the steamer was 8 x 15 feet. - -The Philadelphia left the dock at Liverpool at 4 P.M. on a rough sea. -Mr. E. A. Warren, a member of the Commission, stopped over a day in -Manchester and was in close communication with friends in that city. -Manchester has a population of half a million people. It is the center -of the cotton manufacture of the world. Mr. Warren is a manufacturer of -textile machinery and represented the textile industry on the -Commission. He reported that all the manufacturers of textile machinery -in England are running on war munitions. The entire steel industry in -England is under the control of the government, and the sale of steel -for any purpose cannot be made without governmental consent. Mr. Warren -reported also, as coming from friends, that England was at that time -growing uneasy over the fact that the United States government requested -that British war vessels keep away from our coast and then allowed the -U-boat 53 to land at Newport and obtain information in regard to the -sailing of vessels, which it then proceeded to torpedo. This occurred -about the time of the blowing up of vessels off Nantucket. - -The Manchester stock exchange has a membership of ten thousand and is -open every day except Sunday. There are no auction sales, no excitement -or loud talk, no gesticulating, as is the case in New York, particularly -on the curb. The business is all done in a quiet, conversational tone. -Cotton is the principal commodity traded in. - -A feeling is growing in England that the United States should have -entered the war, which the English believe they are fighting for the -cause of civilization and for the preservation of the liberty of the -United States as well as of England. The feeling is also somewhat -prevalent that the United States is only interested so far as making -money is concerned. This feeling was apparently very bitter. - -England today is an armed camp. From end to end of the country there is -hardly a man, woman or half-grown child who is not working, making -ammunition, guarding the coast, doing police duty, watching for -Zeppelins, making uniforms or shoes, or moving provisions or supplies of -all kinds for an army of five million men, with the British navy thrown -in. There are two thousand munition factories in England and more under -construction. I was told of one plant being built in units extending for -eight miles. These munition factories employ one million men and women. -There are other works being built to make aeroplanes, cannons, machine -guns and hand grenades. All this since the war opened. Great Britain has -mobilized the ship yards and they are working overtime to build vessels. -This has more than offset the loss of vessels destroyed by the Germans. - -America is doing a great deal in the way of Red Cross and relief work, -but it is a mere bagatelle compared with the activities of England in -this direction. The women of England are as fully awake as are the women -of France. Thousands are at work in hospitals and caring for the -refugees. Girls are at work making horse-shoes for the army horses. -These girls are cultivated, aristocratic women, members of golf and -hockey clubs. Others are working on farms, handling teams, pitching hay, -or driving cattle to market. Thousands of women are occupied as -chauffeurs at the various fronts. Hundreds of English women are living -through all kinds of weather in tents just behind the firing lines, -acting as stretcher bearers and driving ambulances. - -[Illustration: Nancy--Place Stanislas] - -While in London I met a number of old friends, many of them incidentally -connected with the government and very much alive to the situation. The -concensus of opinion of these friends is that failure of the Allies to -win the war means the death-warrant of France and the British Empire; -that there is no middle course; that the war will be fought to a finish -and the Allies will be victorious; that the Kaiser and the Prussian -military system will be annihilated, the German people will arise, and -the Republic of Germany will be the result. - -Among other things spoken of there was the incident of Dewey at Manila -and the near clash over Samoa. It will be remembered that Dewey fired a -shot across the bows of a German vessel. To people in London the -Venezuelan embroglio proved that the Kaiser had in mind smashing the -Monroe Doctrine. Germany yielded to us in both cases. President -Cleveland was at the helm when the Venezuelan controversy came and the -immortal McKinley was in the chair when Manila was taken. Cleveland, -Harrison and McKinley all stood up for our rights and Germany backed -clear down, facts which the English have not overlooked. - - - - -XVIII. - -ON THE BROAD ATLANTIC - - -During Sunday following our sailing we passed through the Irish Sea, -which was very rough. The davits were taken down and the passengers -ordered below. On Monday the sea was somewhat calmer. During the day I -met Dr. Lee, who had been in the service of the American Ambulance for a -year and a half. He is quite familiar with and believes in the Carrel -treatment. He said that nearly two million British soldiers had been -innoculated against typhoid fever and only twenty-five had died out of -this vast number during a period of eighteen months. - -On Tuesday, October 24th, we encountered another very rough sea. Old -ocean travelers said it was the roughest day they had ever experienced -in crossing the ocean. I was loath to admit seasickness, but when I -found the dining room vacant and everyone on board, including some of -the crew, unable to be about, I was forced to recognize myself among the -number so affected. On this day the ocean was a sight to behold. I could -see the dashing waves break high, not on a rock-bound coast, but on top -of the ship, inundating my cabin. The waves were at times fully fifty -feet high; stanchions on deck were crushed and the passengers were -ordered to their cabins. - -Thursday, October 26th, found the ocean calm and the sun shining. On -this date I was expected in St. Louis at the semi-annual meeting of the -American Iron & Steel Institute, and was booked for an address. All I -could do was to send a Marconigram: "Gary, American Steel Institute, St. -Louis: Absence regretted. Kind wishes for all members." - -Friday, October 27th, was a bright, clear morning and the boat was -making good time, with prospects of landing early Sunday morning. With -the aid of Mr. Roche I completed the translation of the Le Creusot -welfare book. - -I had the pleasure of meeting on the boat Mr. H. P. Davison, a member of -the firm of J. P. Morgan & Co. He is a plain-spoken gentleman with a -strong personality. He is one of the leading partners in the firm of J. -P. Morgan & Co. and talks and thinks in millions. - -On the boat I talked with an Englishman who saw the last Zeppelin come -down near London. He said the English aviators have solved the problem -of destroying Zeppelins. The Zeppelin contains a large amount of liquid -explosives and firing with incendiary bombs it takes but a few minutes -to destroy the huge air vessel. - -We reached the dock in New York on Saturday evening and remained on -board over night. Early Sunday morning the quarantine officer appeared. -The good old Philadelphia docked at 9 A.M. and after the inspection of -baggage, which was more rigid than usual, the journey was over. We were -met on the boat by numerous reporters. I gave an interview of which the -following is a copy:-- - -ALLIES WILL WIN WAR, SAYS MR. BUTLER - -"Kitchener Right Predicting Three-Year Conflict." - -That the Entente Allies, by the greatness and efficiency of their -military preparations and by their wonderful financial strength, -will push the European war to a complete victory regardless of the -cost in life and treasure, is the opinion expressed by Joseph G. -Butler, President of the American Pig Iron Association, on his -arrival here today on board the steamship Philadelphia' of the -American line, from Liverpool. - -Mr. Butler was a member of the American Industrial Commission which -went abroad late in August to study economic conditions in France, -and hence had excellent opportunities to see the great military -preparations being made by France. He was one out of the twelve -members of the commission who returned today by the Philadelphia. - -A Vast Military Camp - -"All France is a vast military camp," he said, "and her people from -the President down are deadly in earnest and determined to continue -their victories regardless of the cost in life and treasure. -England is fully as much in earnest as France and has buckled down -to the task of winning the fight for civilization, as Mr. Lloyd -George phrased it in an interview I had with him in Paris. - -"I firmly believe that the Allies will win. I feel certain that -the Kaiser and the Prussian military authorities realize that they -have lost and are casting about for some means of bringing the war -to a close, hoping that better terms can be obtained now than later -on. The German people must sooner or later learn the real condition -of affairs, and then I believe they will make themselves heard in -no uncertain manner. - -Will Never Let Up - -"The battle of the Marne settled the controversy in favor of France -and her allies," he continued. "Earl Kitchener predicted a -three-year war, and I believe he did not underestimate it. - -"The Allies will never let up until they have won a complete and -final victory. - -"I am more convinced of this now than I have been on the ground and -learned first hand not only of their complete equipment of men and -munitions, but also of their wonderful financial strength. We in -America know altogether too little of the astonishing richness of -both England and France, and the sooner we wake up to our -opportunities and encourage in every way the increasing of our -trade with them the better off we will be." - -I reached home early Monday morning glad to be again in my native town. -Before landing I had written an account of the French steel industry in -war-time and had obtained permission from Mr. Nichols, as Chairman, to -make an advance publication of this document in the Iron Age and the -Iron Trade Review. I had in mind that something of this kind would be -expected by my fellow steel manufacturers, and if we waited until the -full report of the Commission was made, the information would be stale. -This article appeared in many of the trade journals and is republished -in the chapter following. - - - - -XIX. - -THE FRENCH STEEL INDUSTRY IN WAR TIME - - -The individual report on the condition of the iron and steel industries -in France, referred to in the proceeding chapter, together with the -comments of The Iron Age thereon, were as follows: Joseph G. Butler, -Jr., Youngstown, Ohio, who represented the steel trade of the country on -the American Industrial Commission to France, arrived in New York on the -return journey of the commission on Oct. 29. While the general report of -the commission, which went out under the auspices of the American -Manufacturers' Export Association, will not be published until late in -the year, The Iron Age is able to give its readers below Mr. Butler's -report of his investigations into the war status of the iron and steel -industry of France. - -* * * - -W. W. Nichols, - -Chairman American Industrial Commission to France. - -My dear Sir:-- - -In accordance with your request, I beg to submit the following -report, which is the result of observations and information -obtained, regarding the particular industry represented by me. - -Quite unfortunately, there were only a few visits to steel plants -of any importance and the information gained is rather superficial. -I noticed a dearth of labor-saving devices, and quite prominently -the absence of safety appliances. I also observed that notices to -the employees calling attention to probable dangers were not as -plentiful as in any model plant in the United States. It is quite -probable that there are many plants in France that are more -up-to-date than those we visited. - -I have information in regard to the condition of the iron and steel -business in France at the outbreak of the war, but we are only -concerned with its present condition and its probable condition -when the war is ended. - -The acquisition by Germany at the close of the so-called -Franco-Prussian war resulted, as in well known, in Germany taking -over the tremendous fields of iron ore and coal located in -Alsace-Lorraine. It is my belief that this absorption is largely -responsible for the prosperous condition of the iron and steel -business in Germany and its being in second place in the world's -production. I am assured by men prominent in the iron and steel -trade in France, and by others connected with the government, that -the war will not end until these valuable mineral deposits have -been restored to France. It is remarkable that with this serious -handicap, France has been able to accomplish so much in the way of -steel supplies for its munition plants and other plants making war -material accessories. - -From my observation, nearly all the iron and steel now produced in -France is being turned into war material and materials required for -other purposes have been furnished in a minimum and scanty way. In -other words, the whole of the iron and steel interests in France -have been mobilized by the French Government. - -The last report I have seen on steel and iron production in France -is dated May, 1915, but I am told on good authority that since that -date the production has doubled. - -With the reacquisition of the Alsace-Lorraine iron and coal -deposits and possibly the acquirement of other fields which our -French friends seem to have in mind there will still be a shortage -of coal. However, it is expected that after the war closes, France -will necessarily be obliged to export a good portion of its -production of iron and steel, by reason of the increased -productive capacity of its iron and steel plants. - -Incidentally I might mention that, when we were in Marseilles my -attention was called by the Chamber of Commerce to the fact that -France would be in a condition to export large quantities of iron -ore from Algeria to the United States, and if this project could be -worked out and return cargoes of American coal brought to France it -would be very desirable, meeting the shortage of coal, which is -inevitable. The analysis of this Algerian ore shows the quality to -be such as would produce high-grade steel materials. A detailed -analysis will be furnished to any one who may be interested. - -It is interesting to note that in the departments of Calvados, Manche -and Orne, there are rich deposits of iron ore yielding in some cases 45 -to 50 per cent metallic iron. These deposits before the war were leased -by the Thyssen group of German steel manufacturers, but are now in the -hands of the French sequestrators. I understand that quantities of this -ore also were in great demand, and frequently shipped to the iron works -of South Wales. - -I examined the steel plant making steel by the electrical process, -but the examination was very brief. I have assurance, however, that -the manufacture of steel by electricity in France has been very -successful not only mechanically but financially and is sure to -grow. There seems to be a large area in the eastern part of France -where water-power is available, and I think that many new plants, -and much activity will prevail in this particular region, when -affairs again become settled. The use of water-power will overcome -to a large extent the shortage of coal. - -I think that when the war ends, the imports to France from the -United States of iron and steel will be confined to special forms -and that France will be able to compete not only with the United -States, but also with other countries in the matter of exports of -general iron and steel products. - -With the port improvements contemplated at Bordeaux and Marseilles, -world-wide markets will be opened for France. The contemplated -improvements at both these places will, no doubt, be fully cared -for in other special reports, or perhaps in the general body of the -report which the commission may issue. The canal at Marseilles -should receive special mention in the general report. - -The tariff question in France is in about the same condition as in -the United States, with the exception that in France custom duties -are handled quickly and settled expeditiously by the government. -Duties may be raised or lowered over night to meet contingencies. - -The labor in French iron and steel plants is paid very much less -than in the United States; in many instances one-half and even -less. There are very few disturbances, and dictatorial labor unions -such as we have in the United States are unknown in France. - -A large number of women are employed in France doing men's work, -which keeps wages at a lower level than would otherwise be -possible. All the members of the commission have seen in their -travels women doing men's work, and performing manual labor which -in our country would not be thought of for a moment. Employment of -women in steel and munition plants has, of course, increased the -number of women workers since the war commenced. This, I think, is -largely brought about by the patriotic feeling which prevails all -over France. "Working for France" is a slogan rooted and imbedded -in the minds of the people, whether they are soldiers, or engaged -in any other occupation which may tend to end the war and save -France. - -Cooperation in France among all manufacturers of iron and steel and -in fact all other industrial works, is marvelous, and could well be -imitated in our own country. The various special branches of metal -trades have both local and national syndicate organizations for the -discussion of their trade problems, and means of voicing the -particular needs of their trade, on which a majority sentiment has -been expressed. These chamber syndicates are in turn combined into -a National Union. These national unions are members of the Comite -des Forges de France, which is the cap stone of the trade -organizations of the steel and iron industries. The most striking -fact to an American regarding the personnel of the governing board -and general committee of the Comite des Forges de France is that a -considerable number of its members are in one or the other of the -legislative bodies, and practically hold positions at the head of -the Government Committees, organized to look after the very -business in which they are engaged. - -In spite of the fact that at the beginning of trench warfare, -France had lost behind the German line 80 per cent of her normal -pig-iron production, and 70 per cent of her steel production, it -has been possible by the utilization of lower grade ore in other -districts of France, and which were not exploited to any extent -previously, to increase the steel production of the country 100 per -cent over that of last year. The interesting fact regarding this is -that of the production which has been cut off the larger part in -pig iron is of so-called Thomas iron (non-Bessemer), and in the -case of steel, mostly "Martin" or acid open hearth. Neither of -these products enters to any considerable extent into the -manufacture of projectiles. The plants in the center and southern -part of France were already producing the special qualities of -steel required for artillery use, hence the amount of special -quality steel brought in from foreign countries, in both the raw -and semi-manufactured state, was an immediate necessity for the -country at outbreak of hostilities. It is also noticeable, and -based on information obtained from leading steel manufacturers, -that many idle and in some cases abandoned plants have been -rehabilitated and utilized as far as possible. As a matter of fact, -I am told that there is not a single idle plant of any kind -formerly engaged in the manufacture of fabrication of steel that -is not now in full operation, either in its original form or by -being transformed into a munitions plant. - -It is only too evident that the present pre-occupation of steel -manufacturers is to bend every effort to assist in the final -military victory of the Allies. However, I met steel manufacturers, -conversing with them freely, and their mental attitude is that when -the military victory has been achieved and France has again entered -into possession of her own, they are determined to succeed in -producing a close union with the British producers and thus prevent -a rapid return of German industrial prosperity. With this fact in -mind, it seems clear to me that the United States will have to make -up its mind in which field it will choose to work. It certainly -will be impossible to continue to hold a position of theoretical -neutrality. - -Welfare work in Le Creusot is in a high state of efficiency. -Comfortable modern dwellings are furnished the employees at low -rental. Hospital facilities are of the best and everything is done -to bring the workman in close and harmonious relations with his -employer. - -It has been suggested that I embody in this report something with -reference to the mines in France, but as the data concerning them -has been printed in public documents of the French Minister of -Mines, I will omit this detail with the single word that these -reports include minerals of all kinds. - -I am indebted to John Weare, representative of the United States -Steel Products Company in France, for valuable information in the -preparation of this brief report. - -JOSEPH G. BUTLER, Jr. - -* * * - -In the early part of December I was requested by the Financial editor of -the New York Times to give my views on the present outlook and more -particularly with reference to the condition of the American Iron and -Steel industry, brought about by the war. This letter to Mr. Phillips is -copied. - -* * * - -December 20th, 1916. - -Mr. Osmund Phillips, New York, N. Y. - -My dear Mr. Phillips:-- - -I have before me your circular letter of the 8th instant and your -kind favor of recent date. - -In reply to your question--What is the outlook for business in the -early months of 1917? - -The outlook is good. Our mills and plants for several months could -not nil the domestic orders even if the war orders were entirely -withdrawn. I am told that all the recent orders placed are firm and -are to be filled regardless of the ending of the war. - -Will the end of the European war mark the end of the present period -of prosperity? - -This is a broad and doubtful question. I do not think the end of -the war will end the present period of prosperity. There will be a -temporary halt. I might add in this connection, that in my judgment -the last overture from the Kaiser may result in the cessation of -the war, but I believe this period to be quite a distance off. -There are three parties in Germany. First, the Kaiser and the -Prussian Military circle, who have been in charge and have carried -their own way up to very nearly the present time. Second, there are -the people of Germany who are the common people, the good -substantial people, the majority of whom have been kept in -ignorance of the real beginning of the war and the cause for its -continuing. These people are commencing to get information and as -time goes on will be in full possession of the facts. Third, the -business men of Germany. There are no better nor more substantial -business men any place in the world than those in Germany; these -men are really responsible for the building up of Germany and it is -my opinion that these people are now responsible for the pressure -that is undoubtedly being brought on the Kaiser and the military -party for the settlement of the war. I believe that this pressure -will continue until a settlement is made. These business men -recognize that the longer the settlement is put off the harder it -will be for Germany. - -In your opinion, what proportion of the country's total trade, both -foreign and domestic, during the past year, was due to the war? - -I think about one-half of the trade of the country is due greatly, -directly and indirectly to the war. - -Do you think that labor demands have exceeded labor's fair share of -the increase in profits? - -I do not think labor demands have exceeded labor's fair share. The -high cost of living fully offsets the greater wages paid. - -Do you think present wage rates can be maintained? - -I do not think that present wages can be maintained indefinitely. -There will undoubtedly be a reaction with a certain reduction in -the cost of living and labor will have to share in the reduction. - -What do you think of the important legislation passed in 1916 -affecting business, including the eight hour day, increase in -income tax, the shipping bill, retaliation against foreign trade -interference, etc.? - -The eight hour a day law was an abnormal affair undoubtedly forced -through for political purposes, and never should have been passed -and should be promptly repealed. - -The increase in the income tax is all right. - -The shipping bill will be valuable if the right kind of men are -put on the Commission. Some of these under consideration are wholly -incapable. - -I believe this answers all your questions. - -Very truly yours, - -J. G. BUTLER, Jr. - -* * * - -When the special report I had prepared and published reached France I -was favored with a number of letters from prominent people in that -country, containing comments on the same. There were probably one -hundred of these letters, from among which I have selected the following -as of sufficient interest, either because of their comments or the -prominence of the writers, to make them worthy of reproduction here: - -* * * - -French Republic. -Mr. J. G. Butler, Jr., -Youngstown, O. - -Dear Sir:-- - -I thank you for the interesting data which you kindly sent me on -the development of the French Steel Industry during the war. - -My compatriots cannot be otherwise than sensible of the praise -which you have given them. - -They will find in your report an authorized opinion of the efforts -which they have made to make secure the National defense. - -Yours very truly, -A. MIRMAN, -Minister of Commerce and Industry. - -* * * - -Consulate-General of the United States of America. -1, Rue Des Italians -(28, Boulevard Des Italiens) - -Paris, December 6, 1916. -Joseph G. Butler, Jr., Esquire, -Youngstown, Ohio, -United States of America. -My dear Mr. Butler:-- - -I am in receipt of your good favor of November 9, 1916, enclosing a -reprint of your report on the French Steel Industry, for which you -have my best thanks. I have read it with a great deal of interest -and must congratulate you upon getting a great many solid facts -into a very small compass. In my opinion you have covered the -situation very intelligently and the information you give ought to -be of great value to our manufacturers in the United States. - -I cannot tell you how glad I was to see you over here and I only -wish that more of our people would come abroad to study conditions -at first hand. - -I have also received a letter from your friend, Mr. Warren, and -from Mr. Douglass saying all sorts of nice things about me which, I -hope, were merited. - -Very sincerely yours, -A. M. THACKARA. - -* * * - -Republican Committee of Commerce, -Industry and Agriculture. -Paris, November 30th, 1916. - -Mr. J. G. Butler, Jr., -Member of the Industrial Commission of France. -Youngstown, Ohio. - -Dear Sir:-- - -I acknowledge receipt of the interesting report that you have made -on your return from France, and I trust that this voyage will have -allowed you to learn to appreciate our fine country, and that the -results of your visit will be good and fruitful for the exchange of -our products with North America. - -You need not thank us for the reception that we have given to the -American delegation in France. It was our duty to receive heartily -our American friends; it was for us a cherished duty to tighten -again the bonds of cordiality which exist between the two -countries. - -Personally I myself have been very glad to be introduced to you. - -Yours Very truly, -MONCURAND, -Senateur de la Seine. - -* * * - -Meurthe & Moselle, -Office of the Prefect. -Nancy, France, November 28th, 1916. - -Dear Sir:-- - -I have read with the greatest interest the interview which you gave -upon your landing in America to the American newspapers. - -I feel very much impressed by your own remembrance and I myself -feel honored, as a French citizen, by your sympathy for my country. - -The poor city of Nancy has suffered since your visit. We buried -yesterday, the victims of the Friday bombardment. Big shells have -been thrown on the city. One fell right in the center, in this -vicinity, in a populous street, many women and children have been -killed, a mother and her two little girls--what a dreary sight is -war, the way of the war inaugurated by the Germans, for it is the -shame of all humanity. We have inhumed our poor victims, washed the -blood that reddened pavements, put in order the rubbish of the -houses and have come back again to our daily work. - -Yours very truly, -MIRMAN, Prefect. - -To J. G. Butler, Jr. - -* * * - -Lyon, Le 28 November 1916. - -Consulat Imperial de Russie a Lyon - -Mr. Joseph G. Butler, Jr. -Youngstown, Ohio. -United States. - -Dear Sir:-- - -I am pleased to acknowledge receipt of your favour of the 9 -November, and of the copy of your report respecting the French -Steel Industry. I thank you for same. - -I have read your report with high interest, on various questions -referred to, and particularly the Comite des Forges de France, and -the works of Messrs. Schneider & Co. at Le Creusot. - -I should be happy if a further good opportunity could afford me the -pleasure of meeting you again, and I remain, dear sir, - -Very truly yours, -C. CALOR. - -* * * - -Chambre -Des Deputes -Commission du Budget. - -Paris, le November 30th, 1916. - -Mr. Joseph G. Butler, Jr. -Youngstown, Ohio, U. S. A. - -My dear Mr. Butler:-- - -I duly received your favor of Oct. 31st, and of Nov. 10th, and -also the documents which you kindly sent me. I have read them with -greatest interest. - -Of course, I have at once communicated your report in French to the -Chambers of Commerce and I was pleased to place such a useful and -well established document at their disposal. - -I trust to hear from you soon, and with very kind regards. - -I beg to remain, -Cordially yours, -MAURICE DAMOUR. -Depute de Lands. - -* * * - -Bordeaux the 29th November, 1916. - -Dear Mr. Butler:-- - -I beg to tender you my very best thanks for the copy of your report -on French Steel Industry in war time you so kindly sent me. - -I learned a lot by reading it, and it is comforting to know that on -the other side of the Atlantic, we have friends not sparing their -time and their energy, for helping us through the tremendous -struggle we are fighting. - -Your flag is made of the same colors as our flag, both are the same -symbol of human rights and Liberty. - -Yours very truly, -D. G. MESTREZAT. - -* * * - -Joseph G. Butler, Jr., Esq., -Member of the American Commission to France, -Youngstown, Ohio, U. S. A. - -* * * - -11 Ironmonger Lane London 31st January, 1917. - -J. G. Butler, Jr., Esq., -Youngstown, O. - -My dear Mr. Butler:-- - -I have received your lines of the 29th ultimo, and your most -charming verses which accompanied them; also your report on the -French Steel Industry, which I read with very much interest. - -The people on your side do things in a very thorough manner. For -instance, I do not think that we have sent a deputation to consider -the state of trade in France, but numerous committees, dealing with -various important trades of the country, are conferring in regard -to "trade after the war conditions"--I hope with advantage. - -I trust that out of all the trials of war time there will emerge a -period when the angel of co-operation with healing in his wings -will again have a chance of being heard. - -My wife sends you her kindest regards, as I do also. I have most -pleasant memories of my visits to the United States and of the -hospitalities which you and your hospitable brethren invariably -extended to me. - -Believe me, Yours sincerely, - -WM. R. PEAT. -Lyon, Nov. 23rd, 1916. - -* * * - -Ministere de la Guerre -Inspections Generales -5e Arrondissement -Lyon - -9, Rue President Carnot - -My dear Sir:-- - -I beg to thank you sincerely for that reprint of your report on the -French Steel Industry, which I have read through with great -pleasure and most interest. - -Besides, I am glad to take such an opportunity to remember the time -we spent together so agreeably in Lyons, and remain, dear sir, - -Yours very truly, -A. D'AMAND. -Paris, Dec. 27th, 1916. - -* * * - -Mr. J. G. Butler, -Youngstown, O., U. S. A. - -Dear Sir:-- - -I have the honor to acknowledge receipt of your letters of November -6th and 9th, in which you send to me the text of the report of your -trip in France and an interview that you have granted to a -representative of a newspaper before landing. - -I thank you very kindly for this information and I wish to testify -to the pleasure afforded me by the good impression which you -brought back of your trip. I beg you to be so kind as to excuse me -for delaying so long in answering your letter--a delay caused by -the work that we give to the intensive effort toward the production -of war material. - -As you have made the request of me, I shall tell you very frankly -the few observations which have been suggested to my by the reading -of your report. - -First of all you have noted the lack of any safety apparatus in the -factories and the lack of placards by means of which, in the United -States, the attention of the laborer is called to the probable -dangers of his profession. The last part of the observation is -particularly well founded, but you must not forget that working -conditions in France are quite different from those existing in the -United States. In our country, the metal workers are taught more -slowly; as a rule they start their apprenticeship earlier and their -professional education wards them against the dangers of the plant. -As to the safety apparatus, perhaps they have been neglected in -some workshops erected during the war, but they are required by law -and always installed in times of peace. - -I can tell you that as far as the Schneider's establishments are -concerned, special safety regulations were established twenty years -ago, with such care that they are actually in use almost without -modifications up to the present time. - -I have had looked up, some records on the fatal accidents in the -French and in the American metallurgical factories. I notice that, -according to the report of conditions of employment in the Iron and -Steel Industry in the United States, the percentage of fatal -accidents in America was 1.86 for 1000 laborers in 1909 and 1910, -while in France it was only 0.6 for 1000 laborers. - -The comparison of these figures will show you the accuracy of what -I have just indicated to you. As to wages it is certain that the -French wages have nothing in common with the American prices, but -the cost of living is much less. - -One cannot therefore compare the figures according to the report -which gives the exchange between the monetary units of the two -countries. - -Finally, in the chapter "Collaboration between the Manufacturers" -it is shown that the production of which the French industry has -been deprived, consisted entirely of Thomas, or Basic (Bessemer) -Steel and acid Open Hearth Steel. - -In reality the East and North departments of France, which have -been invaded, were producing chiefly Basic Bessemer pig iron and -steel. Open Hearth, Acid and Basic steel figured only as a -relatively small tonnage. - -As you take an interest in the social question, I thought I was -doing right in having addressed to you, by the same mail, a copy of -our pamphlet on social economy. - -I trust that the materials which you will find in it will allow you -to complete the data that you have been able to gather in the -course of your trip. - -Yours very truly, -SCHNEIDER & CO. -H. COQUEUGNOT - -* * * - -Paris, December 2nd, 1916. -Mr. J. G. Butler, Jr., -Youngstown, O. - -Dear Sir:-- - -I have had the honor to receive your letter of November 9th and was -very much pleased to note your very interesting report on the -French Steel Industry. - -I thank you for sending this document which I immediately -communicated to our several metallurgical departments concerned. - -I thank you, too, for the kind mention you make of our relations -during your stay in France and beg you to believe dear sir, in the -assurance of my best regards. - -Yours very truly, -SCHNEIDER & COMPANY. -MAURICE DEVIES. - -* * * - -Arles-sur-Rhone, Dec. 10th, 1916. - -Mr. J. G. Butler, Jr., -Youngstown, Ohio. - -Dear Sir:-- - -I have received with your favor of the 19th of last November, the -copy of the report which you drew up following your trip to France -about the steel business in France during the war. - -I have had it translated, for, as I very much regret to be obliged -to tell you, I do not know the English language, which deprived me -of the extreme pleasure of conversing directly with you and obliged -me to remain your silent neighbor, when I had the privilege of -being near you. - -The reading of your report has interested me very keenly and -informed us in France of many things about France. - -You have been so kind as to add a very elegant piece of poetry -about our two flags comprising the same colors that the sun blends -in its radiant light, but which none the less preserve their -symbolical import. May they continue to float thus together as -formerly for the glory of our two nations, which are actuated by a -common impulse, though differing in expression. - -I trust your visit to France at this unfortunate time through which -we are living, will have a happy effect upon the continuance of the -good relations between our two countries. - -Thanking you deeply for your considerate attention, I beg to extend -to you and the other members of your Commission the expression of -my sincere regards, believe me, sir, - -Yours very truly, -A. VERAN, -Architecte des Monuments Historiques. - -* * * - -French Embassy. -Washington, D. C., Feb. 21, 1917. - -I offer you, my dear Colonel, my best thanks for the most -interesting account you kindly sent me of your experience in France -and of the sentiments inspired to you by your stay among my -compatriots. - -Sincerely yours, -JUSSERAND. - -* * * - -Louis Nicolle -17, Avenue Bosquet -Paris - -December, 1916. - -My dear Sir:-- - -I am much obliged to you for the reprint of your report you kindly -sent me. - -I have read through it with the greatest interest, and although I -am a textile manufacturer, I found some very interesting -suggestions in it, and at the same time compliments to my country -of which I am very proud. - -I hope some further opportunity may bring us into contact again and -in the meantime, I remain, - -Yours very sincerely, -LOUIS NICOLLE. - -* * * - -Reims, December 15th, 1916. - -Dear Mr. Butler:-- - -I thank you for your very interesting communication on the Steel -Industry in France and on its future. I am quite of the same -opinion with you and I congratulate you for what you have brought -to us. - -I cherish the best remembrance of the visit to Reims of the -American Commission and I hope to have the pleasure of meeting you -again. - -I forwarded your kind regards to Mr. Representative Damour, who -begged me to send you his regards. - -Ever at your service for all that could be service to you, I beg -you to accept, dear Mr. Butler, the expression of my sympathy and -of my most devoted friendship. - -JACQUES REGNIER, -Sub-prefect, Reims. - -* * * - -Paris, Dec. 23rd, 1916. - -Mr. J. G. Butler, Jr., -Youngstown, O. - -Dear Sir:-- - -I duly received your letter of November 9th, in which you were so -kind as to enclose a copy of the report on the French Steel -Industry which you made out following the trip which the American -Commission has made recently in France. - -After reading carefully this report which interested me very -keenly, I can tell you that it represents precisely the actual -situation of our Steel Industry. - -With my best thanks, I remain, -Yours very truly, -J. MAURICE. - - - - -XX. - -WHERE WAR HAS RAGED - - -In spite of the tremendous nature of the present war and its duration -for more than two years at the time of our visit, comparatively little -of France had been visited with the indescribable destruction marking -the struggle. No war in history has been so intense, and few wars have -been so long confined to such small areas as that on the western front. - -It was about the first of October that we reached Belfort, and here we -saw the first signs of havoc wrought by gunfire. At Paris we had been -within twenty miles of the battlefield where the German hosts were first -turned back, but there was not much ruin wrought to buildings at the -Marne. Men, unprotected by trenches or any of the later found defensive -methods, bore the brunt of the cannon there. - -At Belfort we saw signs of bombardment, but they were not so shocking. -The shell fire had been at long range and was apparently brief and -inaccurate. This seemed to be the case at all of the towns between -Belfort and St. Die. Apparently the Germans had not used so many heavy -guns in this region, or perhaps they had not yet become so desperate and -ruthless as later on. At any rate, it was at St. Die where we first saw -a whole town ruined. - -The ruined portion of France extends in a narrow strip around the -frontier from the Alps to the North Sea. Very little of this section, -about three hundred and twenty-five miles in length and varying from ten -to fifty miles in breadth, escaped the fearful blast of war. Few towns -located in it can ever be restored to their original condition. - -After the great German army had crushed Liege and captured Antwerp, one -section came up the valley of the Meuse and the other up the valley of -the Schelde, uniting at a point between Namur and Mons. At the latter -place Sir John French had gathered his hastily formed army of one -hundred and twenty-five thousand men, and with this made a gallant -defense. The British were soon forced back with tremendous losses, but -they delayed the Germans until the French army, hastily mobilized on the -German frontier east of Paris, could be reformed on the Marne. The great -German machine drove rapidly down the valleys over the wide and splendid -roads, forcing the English backward toward the sea and spreading out to -meet the French front so hastily interposed between it and Paris. In -this way the German line became extremely long before the Battle of the -Marne began. The Kaiser's army had spread itself out like a fan. I was -shown maps illustrating this mightiest of all military movements, and -it was made plain how the English, hanging on the German flank, had -placed the invaders in such a position that a skillful attack at the -right time and in the right place forced them to fall back and -strengthen their lines. - -[Illustration: Ruins of Village--St. Die.] - -It was while they were attempting to do this that the French attacked -them with all the fierceness of patriots defending their most beloved -city. Then what the German commander, Von Kluck, had meant to be only a -halt to reform his lines became a retreat that ended only when the -Teutons had gained the hills beyond the Aisne. In their retreat they -destroyed, or the French were forced to destroy, most of the towns in a -section fifty miles wide and two hundred miles long--the fairest part of -France--Artois and Champagne. - -The surge of battle--such a battle as the world never saw before--swept -over all these towns, but it was strange to see how much more some of -them suffered than others. At Belfort, the town famous for withstanding -sieges, comparatively little harm was done. Rambevillers, in the path of -the stream of destruction, was almost unharmed. Gerbeviller, on the -other hand, was entirely destroyed, probably out of revenge for the -stubborn opposition of its defenders. St. Die was badly wrecked, as were -Raon l'Etape and Baccarat. - -It was the same all along the front. We saw some towns absolutely -ruined, others very badly damaged, and still others in which the shells -seem to have fallen in places where they did little harm, or where, -perhaps, there was not time for the complete shelling that had made -heaps of brick and stone of other thriving towns. - -The smaller towns appeared to have suffered worse than the large cities. -Nancy was badly battered, but not entirely destroyed. Reims, which was -under the fire of German guns for many months, and where the wonderful -cathedral was destroyed, apparently with malice, had lost about -one-fourth of its buildings by fire and explosions resulting from the -bombardment. - -In the country, the territory once occupied by the Germans and now in -possession of the French is seamed with trenches and pitted with shell -craters in all directions. To all appearances about every foot of it has -seen the tread of either French soldiers or their foes. Back from the -lines a short distance in some cases, the fields had become green again, -and the trees were trying to send forth new growth from then-burned and -battered trunks; but it will be a long time before this part of France -loses all of its scars. The filling of the trenches and leveling of the -fields will be no mean task of itself. Few farm houses, which in France -are built in groups of half a dozen or so, are to be seen. Stone heaps -fill their places. - -The roads over which we passed were in good condition, having been kept -in repair. We were told, however, that many of the finest roads near -the front had been badly torn up and that it would require much work to -restore them. Hundreds of bridges have been destroyed, and most of the -rivers and canals, of which there are many, are now crossed by temporary -structures. - -We were given a glimpse of the complicated system of railroads, built in -large part since the war and to supply the armies with food and other -necessaries. These roads were all laid hurriedly, but they seem to be in -good condition and are invaluable to the French. Some of them have been -laid with rails taken up in other places where they were not so badly -needed. In this system of railroads and roads one gets a striking -illustration of the huge task it is to feed an army. - -The Commission was given figures showing the total number of buildings -destroyed in France, with an estimate of their value. These figures had -been compiled in July, 1916, and were reasonably accurate at the time we -were there, since the Germans had yielded little ground in the interim -and there had been less wanton destruction than in the first months of -the war. According to this official report, more than half the houses -had been destroyed, either by flames or gunfire, in one hundred and -forty-eight towns. In the greater portion of these towns nearly all of -the houses had been ruined. Besides this there were scores of towns -suffering from gunfire which did not lose so large a part of their -buildings. Among the buildings destroyed were two hundred and -twenty-five city halls, three hundred and seventy-nine schools, three -hundred and thirty-one churches, and more than three hundred other -public buildings of various kinds and sizes. The mills and factories, -like all of the larger buildings, suffered severely, more than three -hundred having been totally destroyed. - -[Illustration: The Prefecture at Reims after Bombardment.] - -Most of the towns suffering were of the smaller class, although four -cities of more than one hundred thousand people were bombarded or burned -by the Germans. These are Lille, Roubaix, Nancy and Reims. The section -swept by the German advance and suffering even worse in the retreat is -the most populous in France. It covered about ten thousand square miles. -No one has yet undertaken to figure the loss in property sustained in -this region. The Germans have still possession of about five million -acres of French soil, including seventy per cent, of the iron ore mines -and a large part of the coal supply. - -The farmers are already back at work on a great part of the territory -ravaged by the war. Farming under such conditions as we saw, where men -and women worked in the fields within range of the guns and amid their -constant roaring, or with the eternal white crosses for company, may be -more exciting than the usual occupation of the agriculturist, but it -must be a sad, discouraging and difficult task. - - - - -XXI. - -GENERAL JOFFRE - - -Perhaps no other man in France is so talked of so much as General -Joffre. Certainly he is the idol of the French people. They look on him -as their hero and savior, and his name is mentioned among them with a -sort of half-worship. No other people have ever depended on their -leaders as have the French. They believe with the right sort of -leadership they can do anything. This is the impression you get in -talking to them. They say that since the Franco-Prussian War they have -looked forward to the time when they might have a general with -Napoleon's genius and some other name--for even the name Napoleon now -prevents a man from fighting for France, at least if he is of the royal -line. - -You may be certain that we all looked forward to meeting this great man. -We did not meet him after all at close range, having to content -ourselves with a view of the busiest man in France as he rode by in an -automobile at top speed. - -General Joffre, as we learned, has been at the head of the French Army -for two years before the war. He first came into notice when, at the -last grand maneuvers, he jarred military circles and greatly pleased the -people by unceremoniously dismissing from their command five gold-laced -generals whose methods did not meet with his approval. - -But Joffre first showed what sort of stuff was in him when he met the -Germans at the Marne. It will be recalled that the French, never -suspecting that Germany would invade Belgium and having all their -military plans laid for mobilizing on the German frontier, were more or -less demoralized when they found an entirely new line of defense -necessary. They had no railroads built to help reform their line, and -the moving of a vast army is a perplexing task. Without a leader in whom -the whole army had supreme confidence, and with the German host sweeping -across Belgium and hurling back the English, it would have been a -hopeless situation. - -But while what the Kaiser called "Sir John French's contemptible little -army" was holding back for a few days the German onrush at terrific -cost, Joffre was busy realigning his forces between the invaders and his -beloved Paris, which seemed doomed to all but him. He had studied the -situation carefully and detected the fact that the long flank of Von -Kluck's army left an opening. This opening was found by the Army of -Paris, augmented in every possible way and finally reinforced by every -available soldier, rushed from Paris in every kind of automobile to be -found. The Germans were stopped at the Marne--twenty miles from -Paris. Not only was the capital of France saved, but the invaders were -steadily driven back until they were sixty miles away before they could -make a successful stand. - -[Illustration: Portrait in Tapestry--General Joffre.] - -It was then that France found Joffre, so the people say. Up to that time -they had heard little of him and nobody knew who he was or where he had -come from. At once they began to inquire. Few of the soldiers had ever -seen him, and there had been nothing much in the newspapers about the -man who had managed all this. - -After the Germans had been forced across the Aisne and there was time to -breathe, the French decided to have a review of that part of the army -that could be spared. It was here that everybody watched for Joffre. The -French tell it in their own way and it is interesting to hear one of -them explaining, with the usual gestures, just how the hero looked on -the day of that review. - -It was not much of a display of military style. The troops reviewed had -been in the thick of the fight and there was an enormous amount of mud. -There was no reviewing stand except a muddy elevation, on which the -commander was to stand. Nobody seemed to know where he was or where he -would come from, but it was passed around that he was to be there and -the soldiers watched for him eagerly. Most of them thought that he was -a little, fat man. They had unconsciously absorbed this idea from -pictures of Napoleon, and, forgetting the terrible stress of the past -weeks in the temporary flush of victory, they expected to see their -general come to the stand with a blaze of glory. They looked for silken -flags and gaudy uniforms and a regular French military parade. This was -as little as they thought would do proper honor to the victorious -commander of the Allied armies, and they were right, because General -Joffre is at the head of the greatest force of men ever gathered -together. - -As you are told about this in France, the day came and at the spot -selected for the review, an open field somewhat back of the lines, with -plenty of freshly planted crosses in sight and evidence all around that -the peace and quiet had not always been there, a few generals and -officers gathered. Finally, a regimental band, playing the first martial -music heard since before the battle of the Marne, swung out of the woods -at the head of a body of troops. - -Then a large man, tall and heavy and wearing an ordinary soldier's -overcoat, but with the laurel band around his hat that showed him to be -a general, came out of the woods behind the little knoll and walked -rapidly toward the group of officers. Every hand went up in salute. Then -they knew it was Joffre. He went to the muddy knoll, and stood there -watching keenly while the soldiers marched past, the bugles blowing and -the bands playing. - -In spite of their muddy uniforms and the hard fight they had just gone -through, the French say that these soldiers looked spic and span as they -passed their general. Their rifles went up in salute as straight and -accurately as if they had just come from quarters and were marching over -a level parade ground, instead of over fields filled with shell holes -and slippery with mud--or perhaps something worse. - -Joffre is a silent man, they say. This does not interfere in the least -with the adoration of the French, who are usually great talkers. They -believe in him to the utmost, and they will follow him to the limit of -endurance. So long as Joffre is at the head of the French army, the -spirit of victory will remain. - -Since Joffre has become famous, of course much is known about him. He -was born in the Midi, as they call the southern part of France. Trained -as a soldier, he saw service in the East, where he did that which he set -out to do. There is no particular incident that points to the discovery -of his genius, although he must have done unusual things to get to the -top. He is known to have been a modest, quiet, home-loving sort of man, -spending much time with his family at Auteil, and showing while there -that he was very fond of fishing. Fishing is a good recreation for the -man who wants to think, and the French believe that while Joffre was -doing that he must have been evolving plans for settling with the hated -Germans. He likes to fish yet, and when he can get away from the war -zone, he hunts a small stream and spends his leisure hours along it. - -During his brilliant career since the war began Joffre has developed -some of the qualities notable in our own General Grant. There is not a -particle of show or bluster about him. He dresses as plainly as -possible, talks little and seems to prefer solitude. But his will is -imperious and he does not hesitate when anything is to be done, whether -it is pleasant or otherwise. For his men he has the greatest -consideration, but they say in France that, like Lincoln, he has little -regard for Generals. Some of the things told about him remind you of the -story of Lincoln. In this story a Confederate raid had resulted in the -capture of two generals and a number of privates. When the story was -brought to Lincoln, he said it was too bad about the men. Someone -suggested that it was a pity the generals had been taken, but Lincoln -said that did not matter much, as he could make some more. Joffre has -made it uncomfortable for the inefficient generals in France. Many of -them have lost their commands and most of them live in fear of his quiet -but inexorable discipline. - -Joffre does not look kindly on visitors to the Front, and nobody gets -there without his permission. He signed the passes on which the -Commission traveled, but he did not seem overjoyed at our coming enough -to look us up while we were there. Apparently he regarded us as people -who could not help in his big job and who were likely in some way or -other to become nuisances. - -When you talk with people who know this man you are at once impressed -with the fact that he appreciates his great responsibility and that -there is nothing on his mind but how to win this war for France. They -say he has a clipping bureau that saves for him all that is being -printed about the war. He probably expects to read it somewhere after -the war is over, but he will not likely be able to do this in the -remainder of an ordinary lifetime. - -Time only will decide whether Joffre is really a great military genius, -or whether he is merely a good general, conscientiously doing his best -and fortunate enough to become a popular hero. Modern war is so -different from old time variety that no one can judge results up to this -time. It is at least certain that Joffre has beaten the Germans back and -back, slowly, but surely forcing them out of France. He says himself -that he "has been nibbling at them." - -There can be no doubt that at the time this is written he has reached -the pinnacle of fame in France. He is the man in all France who is most -talked about, most admired and most trusted. Were he to die now, as -Kitchener died, his place in History would be secure. What will happen -before the war is over is another matter. But, having heard the French -talk about "Father Joffre" so much and so lovingly, and having been -given the most useful thing in France, if you want to see the front--a -pass by him in spite of the great cares resting on his shoulders, I hope -that fate will be kind to him and that he will remain the idol of his -people to the end. - -As might be expected, France is full of the sayings of Joffre. Everyone -you meet can tell you a new one. Some of the aphorisms credited to him -that I can now recall are: "Go where the enemy is not expecting you"; -"No soldier is expected to think of retreating"; "Now is the time to -stand and die rather than yield". This last is said to have been his -utterance before the beginning of the Battle of the Marne. - - - - -XXII. - -THE WORK OF RECONSTRUCTION - - -While no estimate can be made of the cost of rebuilding the towns and -cities destroyed in France until after the war is over and it is known -what further damage has been done, this matter is already receiving -earnest consideration. The French are confident of victory and are -satisfied that they will soon be able to rebuild their cities and -reorganize their industries. They are a frugal and thrifty people, and -usually have more private means than the average American whose manner -of living would indicate that he is wealthy. On this account it is my -impression that France will recover very rapidly after the war and will -soon be as well off in property as before it began. - -The chief loss of the French is likely to be their young manhood. Houses -can be rebuilt. Factories will spring up over night where there is -capital and faith to invest it. Even the fine old cathedrals may be -restored or replaced with something that will serve equally well in a -practical sense. But the young men--the flower of the French -nation--whose lives have been offered on the altar of national -defense--these cannot be replaced. Generations must pass before the -terrific price of national existence will be fully paid in this -direction. - -Most Frenchmen feel this way about the situation. From a material -standpoint they expect to soon be as well off as ever. They do not seem -to mind the loss in wealth destroyed by the great war. But they are -bowed down with grief at the thought of the young men who have been -slain and the years that will be required to replace them. Although they -do not care to discuss this phase of the situation, the French have -already begun nobly to meet the problem of the lame, halt and blind who -are a part of the legacy of every war and an exceedingly prominent part -of that left by this one. - -It is surprising to learn that the Belgians, whose little country has -been crushed under the heel of the invader so that its government -retains only a narrow corner behind the British army, are even more -optimistic than the French. They are determined that the Germans must be -driven out and are already laying elaborate plans for reconstruction of -their farms and villages and cities. Almost before the Commission had -reached Paris we were asked by the Belgians to hold a meeting with their -chamber of commerce in that city in order to discuss the problems of -Belgium's rehabilitation. - -[Illustration: Ruins at Nancy.] - -When this meeting did finally take place, on October 16th, we were all -impressed with the pathetic earnestness of the Belgians upon this -subject. Some of the most prominent citizens of Belgium took part in the -discussion. It was easy to see, even from the meagre translations we -were able to get on the moment, that the Belgians realize that they have -been martyrs and expect the world to render them substantial aid when -the time comes to restore their national entity and rebuild their war -torn country. In fact I was compelled to admit with reluctance that -their enthusiasm was greater than their business acumen, for they seemed -to have very little tangible information on which plans could be laid -for helping them. - -It was explained afterward that these Belgians have no means of securing -the information they need, as the Germans have almost absolute -possession of their country and are, as might be expected, not -furnishing any information as to the amount of destruction, or the -quantity of materials which can be used again, or in any other way. It -is stated that the Germans have practically looted the whole country, -carting off the machinery in most of the factories, and even forcing the -Belgians to work on military defenses to be used against them and their -allies. Under such conditions it was not to be expected that the Belgian -chamber of commerce would be in possession of definite information. The -impassioned belief of these gentlemen in the magnanimity and wealth of -America was inspiring, and I sincerely hope that when the time comes to -reconstruct this stricken land our people will have as large a part as -the Belgians expect and one much more generous than they have had in the -saving of the Belgians from starvation. - -[Illustration: Trenches Occupied by French Soldiers] - -At this meeting I heard many kind things said about the Americans who -are working in Belgium and about how much this country has done to save -the people there from suffering. Great praise was also given to the -English, who have aided most nobly to prevent the absolute destruction -of the Belgian nation. - - - - -XXIII. - -FRENCH BUSINESS ORGANIZATIONS - - -To the members of our Commission one of the most interesting things -found in France was the organization of chambers of commerce, or bodies -whose purpose is to promote the industrial and financial welfare of the -communities where they exist. Unlike the situation in America, where -chambers of commerce are purely local organizations, without power or -even much prestige in the regulation of municipal affairs, the French -have a system of such bodies that is probably the most important single -force to be reckoned with in the republic. - -We were entertained at almost every city where we made a stop by the -chamber of commerce, and were given every opportunity to ascertain how -these organizations work. We found their system admirable, and many -features of it should be copied in this country. Before this can be -done, however, we must have more liberal and sensible legislation on the -question of co-operation among productive organizations. - -The French chambers of commerce are officially recognized by the -government and given certain powers which, to a large extent, place -every community under their care, at least in so far as its business -interests and development of its resources go. No chamber can be -organized except by governmental decree, and this provision naturally -prevents them from interfering with the legitimate prerogatives of the -government, while giving them powers that enable them to be of real -service to the community. - -Everywhere we went we found that the chamber of commerce was regarded as -the guardian of the public interest, and we were told how these bodies -took action frequently with much success in matters that in this country -would be regarded as far beyond the scope of a chamber of commerce. They -have power to represent the towns where they exist in all matters -regarding industrial, agricultural and transportation problems. They are -under the direct control of the department of industry, and the charter -of each is signed by the minister of commerce then in office. Their -members are elected much as we elect regular city officials, and the -number cannot be less than nine or more than twenty-one, except in -Paris, where there are forty at this time. The number is fixed for each -chamber by government decree and depends on the population of the -district. The members must be thirty years of age and citizens in good -standing. Bankrupts are not allowed to serve. In every way these bodies -are made thoroughly representative of the best citizenship, and it is -regarded as quite an honor to be permitted to serve on them without -pay. - -These chambers usually meet twice each month and they keep in close -touch with each other, working out plans that will be for the good of -the whole country as well as for their special localities. Many of the -largest undertakings in France have been begun and carried out largely -by chambers of commerce. The new port at Marseilles, which will cost -about two hundred million francs, is an example. For this work the -chamber of commerce raised six million francs, the government provided a -like amount, and with this the chamber was able to finance the -improvement, depending on tolls and other revenues to pay the balance in -due time. - -The feature which appealed most strongly to me in these chambers of -commerce was the manner in which they are dovetailed with the government -in the performance of duties of a nature such as, in spite of their -tremendous importance, we Americans generally regard as nobody's -business in particular, and which are therefore usually left undone. - -A national organization of chambers of commerce is maintained in Paris. -Part of the expense of each chamber, as well as of this body, is paid by -the government. The secretaries of the local chambers have also an -organization, and all these seem to work in perfect harmony for the -general good. The secretaries are usually professionals, and special -courses of training may be had in France for this work. - -We found that nearly every chamber had its own building and that all -were handsomely housed, well financed and extremely effective. They have -become a most important part of the government, handling with success -many problems that are difficult for a government and which, at the same -time, require a certain amount of governmental authority if they are to -be disposed of in an efficient manner. - -In my opinion this country could copy the French system of chambers of -commerce with much profit. We are in advance of them in many things, -especially in the matter of industrial operations, but they are a -century in advance of us in the co-operation needed between the citizens -and the government for the highest development of community life and -progress. - - - - -XXIV. - -THE CARREL METHOD OF TREATING WOUNDS - - -So much interest has been expressed in the new method of treating wounds -discovered by Dr. Carrel and bearing his name, and the subject being of -such great importance to the cause of humanity and the preservation of -human life, I have thought it worth while to give here the following -authoritative descriptions of this new and epochal discovery in the -science of medicine. It is now generally known as the Carrel-Dakin -treatment. - -Reference has been made to meeting Dr. Sherman in London. On discovering -that this physician had enjoyed considerable experience with the Carrel -treatment and was thoroughly familiar with it, I invited him to deliver -an address on this subject at my home town after his return from Europe. -He readily agreed to do this, speaking to an interested audience under -the auspices of the Mahoning County Medical Society on Dec. 19, 1916. A -newspaper account of this address is appended. This will, in a measure, -serve to show the importance of the Carrel treatment. - -Out of the horror and carnage that is raging across the seas some -inconceivable good must come. This is the opinion of all who have -been close to the din of battle, who have visited hospitals and -seen with their own eyes the human wrecks wrought by grape shot, -shrapnel and bursting shells. Dr. William O'Neill Sherman's visit -to this city Tuesday night, when he opened the eyes of the medical -profession here to new and greater things, is the first inkling of -one great good that is to come out of this war. To treat the -millions of wounded and maimed, medical genius has been taxed to -the limit. As in all great times, great minds have come to the -rescue and found a way. The old saying that where there is a will -there is a way, has been clearly proven. - -Particularly is this true in the medical world. Dr. Sherman came -here from Pittsburgh, the invited guest of the Mahoning County -Medical Society, at the suggestion of J. G. Butler, Jr., who wanted -him to tell the physicians of this city and county the many things -he had learned by close application and association with conditions -in European hospitals and trenches. Dr. Sherman was filled with an -enthusiasm that he made every man who attended the annual banquet -of the Mahoning Medical Society feel. Particularly was he anxious -to bring the local medical fraternity to a realization of the -methods and treatments developed by the horrible carnage raging now -in the European countries. He drove home his point without gloves -when he told physicians of Youngstown that medical men throughout -this country were given too much to criticising new methods rather -than investigating them. - -The Carrel method, he explained at length. It is simply a newly -discovered antiseptic solution, conceived by Dr. Alexis Carrel, -which sterilizes wounds and arrests infection and inflammation -before they have an opportunity to spread and result in blood -poisoning and death. - -* * * - -[Illustration: Proclamation Posted in Reims Just Before the French Fell -Back to the Marne. (See Chap. XXV.)] - -TRANSLATION - -REPUBLIC OF FRANCE CITY OF REIMS - -TO THE INHABITANTS - -At the moment when the German army is at our gates, and will -probably enter the city, the municipal authorities request you to -preserve all your presence of mind, and all calmness necessary to -permit you to undergo this trial. - -There must not be any manifestations, any riotous gatherings, any -outcries to trouble the tranquility of the streets. Public Service, -Charity, Health, and street maintenance should continue to be safe. -You must co-operate with us. You must remain in the city to help -the unfortunate. We shall remain with you at our post to defend -your interests. - -It does not devolve upon you, the population of an unfortified -city, to alter events. It does devolve upon you not to aggravate -the consequences. To this end it is necessary to keep silence, -dignity and prudence. - -We rely upon you, you may rely upon us. - -Reims, September 3, 1914. DR. LANGLET, Mayor. - -* * * - -Mr. Butler said to visit European capitals is to witness a -revelation difficult to convey in mere words. Soldiers of every -nationality are treated by the expert and world famed in medicine. -Human wrecks, victims of shot and shell, are repaired and rebuilt. -It matters little whether a man is friend or foe, as long as a -spark of life is there, he is picked tenderly from the trench and -everything known to medical science done to bring about his -recovery. - -The mind is filled with horror and wonder of it all. New thoughts -bombard the mind as one looks on. A man is brought in. His face is -practically shot away. It seems that even should he recover he will -be so disfigured that life will not be worth the living. The Carrel -solution is applied. By plastic surgery and other means the -disfigured mass is shaped. In a few short weeks the man again -begins to resemble a human being and eventually is well, with -little more than a few indistinct scars. Not infrequently he -returns to the trenches. Some of the things that shock the mind are -metal jaws, screened behind false beards, artificial noses, ears, -cheeks, eyes and limbs. Sometimes when a man is facially disfigured -beyond repair, that is, when nature can never replace the -countenance, a copper mask is fitted. These sculptors in -flesh-and-blood do their work with such precision and accuracy that -it is startling and cannot be believed unless it is seen. - -The war has seen the springing up of many hospitals of special -character. There are groups of institutions where only faces are -treated, eyes, ears and nose, maimed limbs, etc. Medical attention -in most cases begins in the trenches and the patient is carefully -watched while being transported to the hospital. By sterilizing -wounds shortly after they occur, infection and pus are robbed of -their chance to hinder nature and the patient recovers in a few -weeks from a frightful wound that if infected would take that many -months. There are many things of today that help in the -preservation of human life. The highly developed X-ray has played -an important part in this great war. Electricity, new antiseptics -and anaesthetics have been at the finger's end of the skilled -medical profession, to work what can honestly be called miracles -and wonders. - -One of the strange things of this great war is the fact that new, -unheard of diseases are developed. It has tended to make common -rare diseases and greatly increased those that are usual. Thousands -die, having no mark upon their body. Post-mortems held have -disclosed in nearly every case that such deaths were caused by -shell shock. Bombs from the huge guns dropping near a company of -men will often so disarrange organs that death follows quickly. -Many who survive lose mind, sight, hearing, speech, and so on. This -has become one of the common things of this great war. As a result -the warring countries will find themselves confronted with a new -and difficult problem when peace comes and normal times are again -established. There will be hundreds of thousands to pension and no -doubt insane institutions will have to be enlarged. Rest is often a -saviour. Men taken away from the fronts, minds blank, in the quiet -of home often regain their reason. There is the large percentage -that God in his goodness does not see fit to restore that will form -an elephantine problem. There will have to be vast pension lists, -for these men often have large families. - -The way men may be pieced and patched together is one of the finds -of the new medical era. It has been discovered that bones in legs -and arms practically shot in two can be brought together by means -of silver and vanadium steel plates fitted with screws and that the -bones will knit and after a period the afflicted can walk almost as -satisfactorily as if nothing had happened. Dr. Sherman while in -this city this week displayed a steel plate that he worked out and -used with marked success in the hospitals of France. These plates -are applied in what would seem to be a very simple manner. A man -may have a leg or an arm practically shot off. By placing the -broken bones together, after a treatment with the Carrel solution -to keep down infection, a plate is fitted on either side of the -fracture and screws are applied. This holds the two members solidly -together and in a few short weeks the bones knit. In time this -place is practically the strongest part of the limb. What this -means can best be told by explaining that before the discovery, an -arm or a leg so badly shattered was simply amputated because this -was the only safe and logical way to save the life of the -individual. In the olden days gangrene would invariably set in and -the patient die within a short time unless amputation was performed -promptly following the accident. - -Dr. Carrel has gone a long way to eliminate this danger. - -Having seen with my own eyes the wonderful results of this treatment -during my visits to the American Ambulance and other hospitals in -France, I requested Mr. Laurence V. Benet, superintendent of the -American Ambulance, to furnish me with an authoritative description of -the treatment. The chief purpose of this is to enable medical -authorities in this country, particularly those connected with hospitals -maintained by iron and steel plants, to gain a reliable outline of the -treatment. Dr. Benet, in spite of the fact that he is one of the busiest -men in France, kindly agreed to furnish this information. In doing so he -accompanied the description with the following letter: - -* * * - -1 Avenue De Camoens -Paris, October 26, 1916. - -Mr. Joseph G. Butler, Jr., -Youngstown, O. - -My dear Mr. Butler:-- - -In compliance with my request, Dr. Joseph Lawrence, of the American -Ambulance, has kindly prepared a short note on the Carrel treatment -of wounds, and this I am now enclosing. I trust that you will find -it sufficiently explicit for your purposes, and that it will be of -use and interest to you. - -Now that you are again home I hope that your wonderful trip in -France will be less than a mere memory and that the labors of the -Industrial Commission will prove, as they should, most valuable to -the manufacturers and exporters of the United States. Believe me -that it was to me a great privilege as well as a great pleasure to -have met you and your distinguished colleagues, and that my only -regret is that I was unable to be of greater use to the Commission. - -I am, with very kind regards, - -Sincerely yours, -LAURENCE V. BENET -1 encl. - -* * * - -The Carrel Treatment of Wounds. - -The Carrel treatment consists in thorough irrigation guided by the -bacteriological observation of the wound. - -For the irrigation of the wound, Carrel has chosen a certain size -of rubber tube about 4 mm. in diameter into which he punches small -holes at intervals. The one end of this tube is shut, the other end -is allowed to protrude from the dressing. - -On the surface wound, the tube is laid over the wound in the -direction of the greatest diameter of the wound with the open end -towards the most elevated part. - -In perforating wounds, the tube or several tubes, when the wound is -large, are passed through from both sides, or pushed into cavities -or pockets that may exist. - -If the wound is not a perforating wound, but a deep wound, the -tubes are planted deep into the cavity that may be formed. These -tubes are always of sufficient number to thoroughly irrigate the -broken surface. - -Over the uninjured skin, about the wound, is placed thin strips of -gauze which have been steeped in vaseline, the skin having been -thoroughly washed before with soap and water. - -To keep these tubes in place, a bandage wet with Dakin's solution -is placed over them. The wound is flushed every two hours with -Dakin's solution. The amount of solution used per wound, varies in -proportion to the size of the wound from 500 c.c. per day up. -Wounds are dressed daily. - -The bacteriological observation is made by taking a smear from the -most vicious part of the wound at intervals of two or three days. -The number of bacteria on these smears is noted and counted per oil -immersion field. A count of more than 75 bacteria per field is -considered infinity. When there are less than 10 bacilli to the -field, and not less than 5 to the field, three fields are counted. -When less than 5, and not less than 7, five fields are counted. -When less than one, from five to twenty fields will be counted. - -A wound that retains a count of one bacillus to two fields or less -for three observations, is considered bacteriologically clean, and -suitable for operation. If the wound is a compound fracture, it is -advisable to close the wound, converting it into a simple fracture. - -If this can be done without exerting too great tension on the -sutures. - -If the wound is a flesh wound, and can be drawn together without -too great tension, its closure is indicated. - -[Illustration] - -The important parts of the treatment consist in thorough -irrigation, and careful bacteriological observation. The -bacteriological observations are charted on charts similar to -temperature charts. - -Dakin's Solution. -(Sodium Hypochlorite at 0.50%) - -1--To prepare 10 litres of solution, weight exactly: - Chloride of Lime (Bleaching Powder) 200 grms. - Carbonate of Soda (dried) 100 grms. or if used in crystals 200 - grms. - - Bi-carbonate of Soda 200 grms. - -2--Put the Chloride of Lime into a large mouthed bottle of about 12 - litres capacity. Add 5 litres of water (half the quantity) and - shake well two or three times. Let this stand all night. - -3--Dissolve in another 5 litres of water of two Soda salts - -4--Pour this latter solution directly into the bottle containing - the maceration of lime. Stir well and let the solution stand in - order to allow the precipitate of Carbonate of Lime to settle. - -5--At the end of half an hour, siphon the clear liquid and filter - by means of a paper, in order to have a perfectly clear solution. - This should be kept away from the light. - -6--No heat should be employed in the manufacture of Dakin's and - ordinary Tapwater should be used. - -* * * - - -Preparation of Dakin Solution. - -Technique of Dr. Daufresne. - -The solution of sodium hypochlorite for surgical use must be free -of caustic alkali; it must only contain 0.45% to 0.50 of -hypochlorite. Under 0.45% it is not active enough and above 0.50 it -is irritant. With chloride of lime (bleaching powder) having 25% of -active chlorine, the quantities of necessary substances to prepare -ten litres of solution are the following:-- - - Chloride of Lime (bleaching powder) 25% CI act....200 gr. - Sodium Carbonate, dry (Soda of Solway) 100 gr. - Sodium Bi-carbonate....80 gr. - -Pour into 12 litre flask the two hundred grammes of chloride of -lime and five litres of ordinary water, shake vigorously for a few -minutes and leave in contact for six to twelve hours, one night for -example. (Shake until dissolved) at least the big pieces are -dissolved, large pieces float--notice only floating pieces. At the -same time, dissolve in five litres of cold ordinary water the -carbonate and bi-carbonate of soda. - -After leaving from six to twelve hours, pour the salt solution in -the flask containing the macerated chloride of lime, shake -vigorously for a few minutes and leave to allow the calcium -carbonate to be precipitated. In about half an hour, siphon the -liquid and filter with a double paper to obtain a good, clear -liquid, which should always be kept in a dark place. - - -Tritration of Chloride of Lime (Bleaching Powder). - -Because of the variation of the products now obtained in the -market, it is necessary to determine the quantity of active -chlorine contained in the chloride of lime which is to be used. -This, in order to employ an exact calculated quantity according to -its concentration. The test is made in the following manner:-- - -Take from different parts of the bar a small quantity of beaching -powder to have a medium sample, weigh 20 grammes of it, mix as well -as possible in a litre of tap water and leave in contact for a few -hours. Measure 10 c.c. of the clear liquid and add 20 c.c. of a 10% -solution of potassium iodide, 2 c.c. of acetic acid or hydrochloric -acid, then put drop by drop into the mixture a decinormal solution -of sodium hyposulfite (2.48%) until decoloration. The number "N" -of cubic centimeters of hyposulfite employed multiplied by 1,775 -will give the weight "N" of active chloride contained in 100 -grammes of chloride of lime. - -The test must be made every time a new product is received. When -the result obtained will differ more or less than 25%, it will be -necessary to reduce or enlarge the proportion of the three products -contained in the preparation. This can be easily obtained by -multiplying each of the three numbers--200, 100, 60 by the factor -N/25 in which N represents the weight of the active chlorine per -cent of chloride of lime. - -Measure 10 c.c. of the solution, add 20 c.c. of potassium iodide -1/10, 2 c.c. of acetic acid and drop by drop a decinormal solution -of sodium hyposulfite until decoloration. The number of cubic -centimeters used multiplied by 0.03725 will give the weight of the -hypochlorite of soda contained in 100 c.c. of the solution. - -Never heat the solution and if in case of urgency one is obliged to -resort to trituration of chloride of lime in a mortar, only employ -water, never salt solution. - - -Test of Thetalkalinity of Dakin Solution:-- - -To easily differentiate the solution obtained by this process from -the commercial hypochlorites, pour into a glass about 20 c.c. of -the solution and drop on the surface of the liquid a few -centigrammes of phenol-phthaleine in powder. The correct solution -does not give any coloration while Lebarraque's solution and Rau de -Javel will give an intense red color which shows in the last two -solutions existence of free caustic alkali. - - -TECHNIQUE--Dakin Solution. - -The procedure is very simple. The solution, however, must be -between 45 to 50% hypochlorite. Anything above this strength will -burn and anything below is too weak. The edges of the wound should -be covered with gauze which has been well soaked in vaseline, the -solution should then be introduced into the wounds from an -irrigator every two hours. A stopcock should be put on the tube and -only sufficient solution should be allowed to enter the wound to -completely saturate all parts of the wound. In other words, the -wounds should be bathed with the solution every two hours--do not -mistake this and irrigate continuously. You can easily tell how -much solution it takes to keep the wound wet. - -Rubber tubes are used. The end of the tube is tied off and six to -eight small perforations are made so that the solution can run into -all parts of the wound. If the wounds are superficial, the same -kind of a tube can be used to which a cuff of turkish towel is -wrapped around the end of the tube. - -If you feel that the wounds are sure to be infected, it would be -well to lay them open freely and immediately start this treatment, -be sure to have the skin well protected with the vaseline and gauze -and see that the solution does not run out of the wound on the bed. -Just keep the wound bathed every two hours. - -I have been informed that a movement is on foot to inaugurate the -use of this remarkable discovery in the United States military -hospitals, and that the Rockefeller Foundation has in view the -erection at New York of a large hospital where the treatment may be -studied and still further perfected for the benefit of this -country. - -* * * - -[Illustration: Proclamation by the Mayor of Reims Issued on the Day the -Germans Entered that City, Sept. 4, 1914.] - -TRANSLATION - -APPEAL -TO THE POPULATION OF REIMS. - -Dear Citizens: - -To-day and in the days following, many from among you, both -prominent citizens and workmen, will be kept as hostages to -guarantee to the German authorities the quiet and good order which -your representatives have promised in your name. - -It is to your security and to the safety of the City and to your -proper interests that you do nothing which may break this agreement -and compromise the future. - -Have realization of your responsibility and facilitate our task. - -Men, women, children, remain as far as possible in your homes, -avoid all discussion. - -We depend upon you to be equal to this occasion. - -All riotous gathering is absolutely forbidden and will be -immediately dispersed. - -J. B. LANGLET, Mayor. -L. ROUSSEAU, DR. JACQUIN, -E. CHARBONNEAUX, J. De BRUIGNAC. -Assistants. - -* * * - - - - -XXV. - -A CITY IN AN ARMY'S PATH - - -Few who read this book have ever been in contact with actual war. In -order that they may have an idea of what happens to a city which finds -itself in the path of an irresistible enemy, some account will be given -here of what happened to Reims, a city about the size of Youngstown, -having a population of one hundred and twenty-five thousand and being -situated on the north bank of the river Aisne, in north-eastern France. - -When the Germans attacked France they hurled their great armies by three -routes. Not only did they violate the neutrality of Belgium and -Luxembourg, but they also sent an army across the frontier between -Verdun and Belfort, this being the force stopped by the chasseurs at -Gerbeviller, as has been told elsewhere. France had trusted too much and -was in a desperate plight because her troops had been mobilized on the -wrong front. - -The first Germans crossed the frontier of little Luxembourg on the -morning of August 2, 1914. They were met by the Grand Duchess, who -disputed their passage and pleaded with them to turn back. Her little -army of four hundred and thirty men could do nothing, and when she -turned her car across the road the German soldiers gathered around and, -on the order of their commander, pushed it to one side and passed on. - -The Germans entered Belgian territory at Gemmenich on August 3, 1914. -The next day they attempted to take by assault the city of Liege, -Belgium's greatest industrial center, and failed. This city, with its -ring of nine forts, blocked the passage of their troops and held the -main roads into Germany. After a most bloody and unsuccessful assault, -the Germans brought up their big guns and blew the forts to pieces. But -they had been delayed five days. Then their hosts swept across Belgium -and soon came in touch with the French and English. The English army of -one hundred and twenty-five thousand men met them at Mons. The French -met them between Mons and Verdun. - -At this time the Allied lines swung like a huge gate from Verdun west -toward the sea, barring the Kaiser's passage. The Germans then had a -million of men, with hordes of the famous lancers, and clouds of these -horsemen hung on the right flank of the English, swinging out and around -them so as to force Sir John French to fall back or suffer the turning -of his flank. Von Kluck was in command of this turning movement, which -was made possible by the fall of Namur, Lille and Charleroi. Things then -looked desperately bad for the Allies. - -* * * - -[Illustration: First Order From the Invaders.] - -TRANSLATION - -ORDER - -Having taken possession of the City and the fortress of Reims I -command the following: - -Railroads, routes of communications, both telegraph and telephone, -not only of the City of Reims, but also throughout the immediately -outlying districts, must be protected against all possibility of -destruction; it is absolutely necessary to protect by a minute -surveillance the public buildings along the lines of communication. -The City will be held responsible for disobedience to this order: -the guilty ones will be pursued and shot; the City will be levied -for considerable contributions. - -I add also that it will be to the interest of the population to -conform to the foregoing commands, at the same time going about -their ordinary occupations; thus the inhabitants will avoid having -new and serious losses. - -THE GERMAN GENERAL -Commander in Chief. - -* * * - -This notice on a white card, 45 by 56 centimeters, was posted on the -walls of the City of Reims by German authority during the occupation of -September 4th to 12th, 1914. - -As they were forced back toward Paris, not so much by actual fighting as -by the necessity to keep their lines clear and avoid the turning -movement of the swift German division under Von Kluck, the Allied armies -swung, like a gate with its hinges at Verdun and the outer edge at Mons, -back until they stretched between Verdun and Paris. This movement -uncovered the beautiful city of Reims, with its countless art treasures, -its magnificent cathedral and its thriving population of more than a -hundred thousand people, all of which, as the swinging movement -continued, were left to the mercy of the German army. The French -evacuated Reims with nothing more than some rear-guard fighting and fell -back southward to take their places in the great battle line which -Joffre had planned somewhere north of Paris--on the Marne, as it was -later evident. - -As the Allied forces swung backward to this then unknown position, they -were hard pressed by the advancing German hosts. Their retreat will -stand as one of the most masterly in history, for during ten days these -vast armies retired more than two hundred miles on their left flank -without disorder and without excessive loss of men or material. - -The English army occupied the side toward the sea in these grand -maneuvers for position. Sir John French moved swiftly backward, fighting -as he went and constantly swinging outward to prevent Von Kluck from -encircling his flank. On the morning of September 3rd, he reached a -point between Paris and the sea, actually a little north of that city. -Suddenly in response to orders from Joffre, he marched his tired troops -through Paris to Lagny, twenty miles east of the capital, where he took -up a position on the Marne front. - -Von Kluck was almost in sight of Paris in hot pursuit of the English -when he found how he had been tricked. He could not attack the defenses, -and it was urgently necessary for him to join the main army on the Marne -front. To do this he had to circle to the north, around the outer -fortifications of Paris a much longer march than that of the English. - -The French government had packed its belongings and left for Bordeaux on -the morning of the day the English passed through Paris, and the people -thought the Germans were about to besiege the city. All buildings in the -line of fire had been destroyed, the civilian population sent south, and -every preparation made for defense. Joffre only knew the real plan. - -The Parisians were amazed when the Germans scarcely stopped in front of -their city. They could not understand why Von Kluck should suddenly -withdraw to the east, because they did not know how badly he was needed -on the Marne front. But Von Kluck must have suspected, for it is said -that he told an aide that, "We have met with a great misfortune." - -Von Kluck was right, for the masterly strategy of Joffre had won the -battle of the Marne before a shot had been fired in that historic -struggle. - -These facts were gleaned from military men whom we met in France. They -show how little the civilian population of a military zone, or even the -soldiers themselves, know of the movements in which they are engaged. -Evidently Joffre had not confided his plans even to the government -authorities at Paris, preferring to have the seat of government move and -the population flee rather than take chances of these plans being -learned by the enemy. So also at Reims. - -The French who had been stubbornly defending the city they love best -next to Paris from German "Kultur," were forced to move through Reims -and to the south to take their place in the great battle line on the -Marne. They went reluctantly and the Germans followed them into the -city. - -This explains the situation shown in the poster on page 245. The Germans -were just outside of Reims on September 3rd, and the Mayor knew that the -French army was moving south and leaving the city at their mercy. He -counselled his people concerning their conduct, warning them to -interfere in no rear-guard action such as was likely to occur. This -proclamation was dated September 3, 1914. - -* * * - -[Illustration: Second German Proclamation.] - -TRANSLATION - -PROCLAMATION - -All authorities of the French Government and Municipal authorities -are advised as follows: - -1st--All peaceable inhabitants may follow their regular occupations - in full security without being disturbed. Private property will be - absolutely respected by the German troops. Provisions of all sorts - suitable for the needs of the German army will be paid for as - purchased. - -2nd--If, on the contrary, the population dares in any form, whether - openly or disguised, to take part in hostilities against our troops - the most diverse punishments will be inflicted upon the guilty - ones. - -3rd--All firearms must be deposited immediately at the Mayor's - office; all individuals bearing arms will be put to death. - -4th--Whoever cuts or attempts to cut telegraph or telephone wires, - destroys railroad tracks, bridges, roadways, or who plans any - action whatsoever to the detriment of the German troops will be - shot on the spot. - -5th--The inhabitants of the city or of the villages who take part - in the battle against our troops, who fire on our baggage trains or - on our commissary, or who attempt to hinder any enterprises of the - German soldiers, will be shot immediately. - -The civil authorities alone are in a position to spare the -inhabitants the terrors and scourge of war. They are the ones who -will be responsible for the inevitable consequences resulting from -this proclamation. - -Chief of Staff, Major General of the German Army -VON MOLTKE - -* * * - -White card, 45 x 56, posted on the walls of the city of Reims by German -authority during the occupation of September 4th to 12th, 1914. - -On September 4th the Germans entered Reims, having met with no -resistance. They occupied the city without interruption until after the -battle of the Marne, which historic struggle began at sunrise on -September 6th and continued along a front of about 140 miles until -September 12th. - -In this battle, which was lost to the Germans because they had been -out-maneuvered and compelled to shorten their front so that they were -rolled up on both right and left wings, two million, five hundred -thousand men were engaged--the greatest number taking part in one battle -in the history of the world. Of these nine hundred thousand were Germans -and the remainder Allies, principally French, the English having only a -little more than one hundred thousand men in France at that time. On -account of their superiority of numbers, the Allies were able to extend -their front and thus threaten the Germans with envelopment at both ends -of the long battle line, which reached from Meaux, twenty miles east of -Paris, to the fortress of Verdun. - -The losses in this tremendous battle are said to have been exceeded only -by those of the battle of Flanders, which began October 13, and in which -more than three hundred thousand men were slain. The losses at the Marne -have never been officially stated. - -* * * - -[Illustration: Citizens Warned of Danger.] - -MAYOR'S OFFICE -REIMS - -IMPORTANT NOTICE - -The inhabitants are requested to abstain absolutely from touching -shells which have not been exploded and are requested to notify -immediately the police department, Rue de Mars regarding any such. - -The least shock may cause the explosion of the projectile. - -Reims, September 7, 1914. DR. LANGLET, Mayor. - -Notice posted in Reims by order of the Mayor, September 7th, 1914. - -* * * - -Next followed the battle of the Aisne, in which the invaders were again -defeated and forced to retreat. It was in this battle that the Germans -made their last stand south of Reims. They had prepared strong positions -on the right bank of this river as they moved toward Paris and in these -tried to stem the tide of battle without avail. They were pushed back -slowly out of these positions, some of which we were shown, and after -being driven to the north of Reims, they began, on September 20th, the -bombardment that destroyed the famous cathedral and many of the finest -structures in the city. - -It will be seen that the Germans, on their entry into Reims, guaranteed -the safety of life and property. They had forgotten this when, on -September 15, the victorious French reoccupied the city. Five days -later, without reason or any other motive than revenge, the Germans, now -making another stand in the trenches to the north of the city, opened -fire on the cathedral and the bishop's palace nearby, destroying both -beyond repair. - -* * * - -[Illustration: Citizens Warned that Hostages may be Hanged.] - -TRANSLATION - -PROCLAMATION - -In case a battle takes place today or very soon in the environs of -Reims or in the city itself, the inhabitants are advised that they -should keep absolutely calm and are not to take part in the battle -in any manner. They must not attempt to attack isolated soldiers -nor detachments of the German army. It is formally forbidden to -build barricades or tear up pavement of the streets in such a -fashion as to hinder the movement of the troops. In a word nothing -must be done which will in any way tend to hinder the German army. - -In order to insure sufficiently the safety of the troops and in -order to keep the population of Reims calm, the persons named below -have been taken as hostages by the commanding general of the German -army. Those hostages will be hanged at the least sign of disorder. -At the same time the city will be entirely or partially burned and -the inhabitants hanged if any infraction whatsoever is committed -against the preceding rules. - -On the other hand if the city remains absolutely tranquil and calm, -the hostages and the inhabitants will be placed under the safeguard -of the German Army. By order of German authority, - -Reims, September 12, 1914. DR. LANGLET, Mayor. - -* * * - -Both armies surged backward and forward over Reims twice, and it is not -surprising that the city suffered severely. Nevertheless, the French -officer who gave us the information outlined above was firmly of the -opinion that the cathedral had been wantonly destroyed in revenge for -the defeat and humiliation suffered by the German commanders at the -Marne and the Aisne. Whatever may have been the motive, and regardless -of how great may have been the excuse, the two illustrations of this -splendid structure shown in a previous chapter are sufficient to stamp -its destruction as a crime that can hardly be justified by the plea of -military necessity. - -Reims, when we saw it, with the story that is told by the proclamations -reproduced, furnishes strong evidence that General Sherman was right -when he described war. - - - - -XXVI. - -SOME IMPRESSIONS OF FRANCE AND THE FRENCH - - -In closing this work it is my hope that the reader will consider that -its inspiration and purpose have been stated with sufficient clearness, -but in this final chapter I am venturing to record my general -impressions of a truly great nation seen during a period which must be -regarded as part of the most vital epoch in its history. This concluding -chapter will have accomplished my purpose if it portrays the patriotic -nationality of the French under existing conditions, in such manner as -to be considered worthy of emulation in our own country. - -During the necessarily brief and hurried visits made by our Commission -to many parts of France, I met many notables, generals, under officers, -parliament members, prefects, as well as great commercial leaders, but -regret that owing to lack of time and my ignorance of the French -language, opportunity for investigation and conversation with the -bourgeoise was slight. Nevertheless it would be impossible to travel -through afflicted France as our Commission did without experiencing an -acute impression of the solidarity and quiet, determined patriotism of -the French people. They stand as one to fight the war to a decisive -finish. They treat the war as some gigantic job, about which there is to -be no questioning, no weighing of sacrifices of life, comfort or -finances, and which simply must go on until finished satisfactorily. - -This development of the French character must come as a revelation to -those who have in the past regarded the French as a volatile, frivolous, -impulsive people, virile, yet lacking the accredited determination and -persistency of the Teuton. This impression has been a great mistake. The -faces of the men and women of France alike show no sign of vacillation. -The French are counting the terrific cost, as becomes the thriftiest of -nations, expecting to collect a bill that in their opinion has been -running since the Franco-Prussian war and through the humiliating and -irksome years which followed under the "favored nation" clause. From any -other standpoint I believe few Frenchmen ever permit themselves to dwell -upon the ruin and suffering the present cataclysm has brought upon their -country. - -Upon comprehending this attitude of the French, the thinking American -cannot avoid speculation as to what would happen in these United States -should a like emergency confront us. We may not dismiss such thought -with the statement that such an emergency is impossible. It is a most -unpleasant possibility and must be faced. We might be unconquerable, -in the sense that Russia cannot be conquered because of her magnificent -distances and natural barriers against a foe; but without the -preparedness and the single-hearted patriotism of the French, an invader -would find nothing in America to prevent him from working destruction -beyond calculation and inflicting humiliation that would be even worse. - -[Illustration: Postal-card Painted by Artist Soldier in French -Trenches.] - -As these lines are written we are still at peace with all the warring -nations. Our neutrality has been preserved only by submitting to -outrages such as have been endured without forcible protest by no other -great nation in the history of the world. If our patience with Germany -serves as an example to the world of how a great and magnanimous nation -may make sacrifices to encourage peace, our policy will prove to be -wise. If, on the other hand, it serves only to make the Germans believe -that we are too mercenary or two weak-kneed to defend ourselves and thus -encourages further transgressions, our peaceable policy will have been a -great mistake. After an opportunity to observe at close hand the methods -and motives of the German war party, I am frankly afraid that the latter -situation will prove to be the outcome. We shall be indeed fortunate if -we can keep out of the war that has involved half the civilized world. - -Nations like men profit by experience. The French people have records -of history and civilization extending beyond the days of the Roman -Empire, and that civilization has gone steadily forward through many -centuries. No wonder then that they excel us in many things; the wonder -is that they do not excel in all. In architecture and the arts, France -leads America. This must be admitted by any fair-minded person familiar -with the facts. But in industrial affairs the story is different. - -Our country has adopted more progressive and efficient methods in the -industrial field than can be found in France, where efficiency is not -the word so much as is the comfort of the workers. This is particularly -true of the iron and steel business. We saw in France not a single steel -plant that could compare in efficiency with the great plants of this -country. By this is meant that in none of the plants visited was the -output per man nearly so great or the share enjoyed by the worker nearly -so large, as is the rule in this country. Since we did not see the -plants to the north which had been captured by the Germans, perhaps it -is not altogether fair to make this comparison. Nevertheless the same -impression was gained in the inspection of other industrial operations. -The French workman is more artistic but he does not move so rapidly or -produce so much as does the American. Neither of course, does he enjoy -so large a remuneration. On the whole, wages are much less in -proportion to individual production in France than in this country. - -To the resident of a country which has not had a war within the memory -of a generation, it is hard to convey by written or printed words a just -conception of what a great war means to any country involved. The -outward, visible evidence of individual restraint was one of the most -vivid things witnessed on our trip through France: at least this was the -case with me and, I believe, with some others of the Commission. - -In France the individual has disappeared; he has been swallowed by the -State; the nation in its dire necessity, obeying the law of -self-preservation has practically obliterated the individual as such. He -has become simply a small part of a great whole, a whole so -inconceivably more important than any of its parts that all of them are -completely subordinated. - -The average American citizen would resent with heat the regulations -regarded as a matter of course in France. He would fume and fret and all -but rebel, if asked to live as the French people are forced to live -during the war. - -From what we could learn the submersion of the individual is far greater -in Germany than in France, but to a healthy American citizen, accustomed -to doing about as he pleases so long as he is able to pay the price and -injures no one else, there is abundant restriction on personal liberty -at this time in France. Possibly under similar circumstances we would as -a people show an equal spirit of self-repression for the benefit of the -national welfare. - -The first great lesson taught by war to the death--as this war is for -all concerned--is the great outstanding fact that people as individuals -must surrender their rights to the people as a whole. Obedience to -constituted authority must be absolute. Personal tastes and interests -must be ignored or suppressed. The whole nation must work as one man, -under the direction of one head, to keep it from being made subject to -some other nation having less regard for personal liberty and more -respect for efficiency. - -I took particular pains to ascertain directly and indirectly from all -classes the feeling of the French people towards Germany and the -Germans. Prior to the declaration of war it is safe to say the feeling -was not wholly unfriendly. Only three months before war was declared a -similar commission came from Germany. The German commissioners were -treated with great consideration. Plants and industrial establishments -were shown, views exchanged and entertainments were the order of the -day, or rather of the night, and everything possible done by the French -to foster a good feeling, having in mind increased trade facilities -between the two nations. But after war was declared, French territory -invaded and the unspeakable and unwritable deeds of the German soldiers -made manifest, this previous feeling changed to one of hatred and -revenge which it will take generations to eradicate. - -In our intercourse with the French people a kindly appreciative feeling -was manifest towards the English and Americans; a feeling of deep -gratitude towards England for the great part she has taken in the war -and to America for the generous aid and assistance rendered in many -ways. Hospital work and the great aid rendered by American aviators were -much dwelt upon, the personal work of American men and women being -everywhere in evidence. - -Since my return I have been asked by a great many people as to the -revival or otherwise of religious feeling as the result of the war, also -as to the food situation, the general appearance of the country in -France, the manner in which the dwelling houses are built, the -maintenance of public roads, the school system of France and its -efficiency as well as to the conditions prevailing now compared with -former visits. France has never been deeply religious. Catholicism -prevails to a great extent at present and has for centuries, although -certain parts of France are Protestant. Such divisions and subdivisions -of Protestant churches as prevail in the United States are unknown. A -Frenchman or a Frenchwoman is either a Catholic or Protestant. -Religious feeling is no doubt deeper in the country districts than in -the larger cities, and this is particularly true of the Catholics. From -the brief talk I had with French people on this particular subject I -should say the war has made no difference and the religious attitude is -about the same. The thoughts of the French people are so concentrated -upon the war and its consequences that but little else occupies their -minds. - -During our sojourn in France, food seemed plenty and we heard no -complaint of shortage. The French are proverbially thrifty and can and -do live comfortably upon the equivalent of what Americans waste. When a -Frenchman finishes his meal there is nothing left on the plate, on -dishes or in the glasses. This was particularly noticeable at all the -banquets and luncheons which we attended. - -We had but little opportunity of ascertaining prices. The market houses -in the small villages seemed well stocked with provisions. - -Going to school in France is a governmental affair as all the schools -are run by the Government, excepting only the convent schools, where -higher education is taught to private pupils. France contains many high -grade "polytechnique" schools, arts, military and schools of mines, all -regulated and managed through the government department of education. I -should say the common school system is not as thorough as in Germany, -where education is wholly compulsory. Military education and training in -France is a part of the established system of the public schools and is -rigidly enforced. There are schools for training of officers the -equivalent of our own West Point. Children of the wealthier class in -France are taught and trained by private tutors. Retired army officers -are largely employed in the military schools. - -Our journey through France was largely through the devastated districts. -I am certain that when this portion of France is rebuilt it will be done -on a more sanitary scale, as indicated by the beginning of the -reconstruction by Miss Daisy Polk and her associates at Vitrimont. - -I was specially impressed by the magnificent scenery we saw and passed -through during the latter part of our journey. The French Alps are -considered in scenic effects equal to the world famous views in -Switzerland. We were treated by the authorities directing the movements -of the military automobiles with a perilous night ride from Le Puy to -St. Etienne. Starting about eight o'clock we were taken a distance of -nearly a hundred miles around, over and across gorges, steep inclines -and winding roads innumerable. We got through safely but were warned -from time to time by the peasantry that the ride had never previously -been attempted except in day-light. We were several times lost and -traced and retraced our steps time and again. But few of the party knew -of the real danger we had passed through until told the following day. - -Concluding I may say adieu to the reader by adding that the Commission -has issued a printed report of its labors, the information contained in -that book being the joint and collaborative work of all the -commissioners. I have availed myself of some of the information -contained in the two chapters in this commission report "The Work of -Reconstruction" and "French Business Organizations". - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Journey Through France in War Time, by -Joseph G. 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