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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Ranching, Sport and Travel, by Thomas Carson
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Ranching, Sport and Travel
+
+Author: Thomas Carson
+
+Release Date: January 16, 2007 [EBook #20382]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RANCHING, SPORT AND TRAVEL ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Susan Skinner, Janet Blenkinship and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: ONE OF THE "BOYS."
+
+(Portrait. See p. 125.)
+
+Frontispiece.]
+
+
+
+
+RANCHING, SPORT AND TRAVEL
+
+BY
+
+THOMAS CARSON, F.R.G.S.
+
+
+WITH SIXTEEN ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+
+
+
+T. FISHER UNWIN
+
+LONDON             LEIPSIC
+Adelphi Terrace    Inselstrasse 20
+
+1911
+
+[_All Rights Reserved_]
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY NOTE
+
+
+This book is somewhat in the nature of an autobiography, covering as it
+does almost the whole of the Author's life. The main portion of the
+volume is devoted to cattle ranching in Arizona, New Mexico and Texas.
+The Author has also included a record of his travels abroad, which he
+hopes will prove to be not uninteresting; and a chapter devoted to a
+description of tea planting in India.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+  CHAP.                                                             PAGE
+
+  I. TEA PLANTING                                                     13
+
+  In Cachar--Apprenticeship--Tea Planting described--Polo
+  --In Sylhet--Pilgrims at Sacred Pool--Wild
+  Game--Amusements--Rainfall--Return to Cachar--Scottpore
+  --Snakes--A Haunted Tree--Hill Tribes--Selecting
+  a Location--Return to England.
+
+  II. CATTLE RANCHING IN ARIZONA                                      42
+
+  Leave for United States of America--Iowa--New
+  Mexico--Real Estate Speculation--Gambling--Billy
+  the Kid--Start Ranching in Arizona--Description of
+  Country--Apache and other Indians--Fauna--Branding
+  Cattle--Ranch Notes--Mexicans--Politics--Summer
+  Camp--Winter Camp--Fishing and
+  Shooting--Indian Troubles.
+
+  III. CATTLE RANCHING IN ARIZONA (_continued_)                       81
+
+  The Cowboy--Accoutrements and Weapons--Desert
+  Plants--Politics and Perjury--Mavericks--Mormons--Bog
+  Riding.
+
+  IV. ODDS AND ENDS                                                  103
+
+  Scent and Instinct--Mules--Roping Contests--Antelopes
+  --The Skunk--Garnets--Leave Arizona.
+
+  V. RANCHING IN NEW MEXICO                                          117
+
+  The Scottish Company--My Difficulties and Dangers--Mustang
+  Hunting--Round-up described--Shipping
+  Cattle--Railroad Accidents--Close out Scotch Company's
+  Interests.
+
+  VI. ODDS AND ENDS                                                  152
+
+  Summer Round-up Notes--Night Guarding--Stampedes--Bronco
+  Busting--Cattle Branding, etc.
+
+  VII. ON MY OWN RANCH                                               170
+
+  Locating--Plans--Prairie Fires and Guards--Bulls--Trading
+  --Successful Methods--Loco-weed--Sale of Ranch.
+
+  VIII. ODDS AND ENDS                                                198
+
+  The "Staked Plains"--High Winds--Lobo Wolves--Branding
+  --Cows--Black Jack--Lightning and Hail--Classing
+  Cattle--Conventions--"Cutting" versus
+  Polo--Bull-Fight--Prize-Fights--River and Sea
+  Fishing--Sharks.
+
+  IX. IN AMARILLO                                                    226
+
+  Purchase of Lots--Building--Boosting a Town.
+
+  X. FIRST TOUR ABROAD                                               234
+
+  Mexico--Guatemala--Salvador--Panama--Colombia--Venezuela
+  --Jamaica--Cuba--Fire in Amarillo--Rebuilding.
+
+  XI. SECOND TOUR ABROAD                                             250
+
+  Bermudas--Switzerland--Italy--Monte Carlo--Algiers
+  --Morocco--Spain--Biarritz and Pau.
+
+  XII. THIRD TOUR ABROAD                                             256
+
+  Salt Lake City--Canada--Vancouver--Hawaii--Fiji
+  --Australia--New   Zealand--Tasmania--Summer at Home.
+
+  XIII. FOURTH TOUR ABROAD                                           270
+
+  Yucatan--Honduras--Costa Rica--Panama--Equador--Peru
+  --Chile--Argentina--Brazil--Teneriffe.
+
+  XIV. FIFTH TOUR ABROAD                                             287
+
+  California--Honolulu--Japan--China--Singapore--Burmah
+  --India--Ceylon--The End.
+
+  APPENDIX                                                           317
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+  ONE OF THE "BOYS" (_see_ page 125)                       _Frontispiece_
+
+  PLUCKING TEA LEAF                                                   20
+
+  NAGAS                                                               37
+
+  ROPING A GRIZZLY                                                    70
+
+  A SHOOTING SCRAPE                                                   76
+
+  ONE OF OUR MEN, TO SHOW HANG OF SIX-SHOOTER                         78
+
+  1883 IN ARIZONA, AUTHOR AND PARTY                                   80
+
+  WOUND UP, HORSE TANGLED IN ROPE                                    106
+
+  WATERING A HERD                                                    116
+
+  HERD ON TRAIL, SHOWING LEAD STEER                                  137
+
+  CHANGING HORSES                                                    153
+
+  A REAL BAD ONE                                                     164
+
+  BREAKING THE PRAIRIE                                               230
+
+  FIRST CROP--MILO MAIZE                                             230
+
+  LLAMAS AS PACK ANIMALS                                             279
+
+  DRIFTING SAND DUNE, ONE OF THOUSANDS                               279
+
+  PERUVIAN RUINS. NOTE DIMENSIONS OF STONES AND LOCKING SYSTEM       281
+
+  PALACE OF MAHARANA OF UDAIPUR                                      310
+
+
+
+
+RANCHING, SPORT AND TRAVEL
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+TEA PLANTING
+
+     In Cachar--Apprenticeship--Tea Planting described--Polo--In
+     Sylhet--Pilgrims at Sacred Pool--Wild
+     Game--Amusements--Rainfall--Return to Cachar--Scottpore--Snakes--A
+     Haunted Tree--Hill Tribes--Selecting a Location--Return to England.
+
+
+Having no inclination for the seclusion and drudgery of office work,
+determined to lead a country life of some kind or other, and even then
+having a longing desire to roam the world and see foreign countries, I
+had arranged to accompany a friend to the Comoro Islands, north of
+Madagascar; but changing my mind and accepting the better advice of
+friends, my start was made, not to the Comoro Islands, but to India and
+the tea district of Cachar. Accordingly the age of twenty-two and the
+year 1876 saw me on board a steamer bound for Calcutta.
+
+Steamers were slow sailers in those days, and it was a long trip via
+Gibraltar, Suez, Malta, the Canal and Point de Galle; but it was all
+very interesting to me.
+
+Near Point de Galle we witnessed from the steamer a remarkable sight, a
+desperate fight, it seemed to be a fight and not play, between a
+sea-serpent, which seemed to be about fifteen feet long, and a huge ray.
+The battle was fought on the surface of the water and even out of it, as
+the ray several times threw himself into the air. How it ended we could
+not see. Anyway we had seen the sea-serpent, though not the fabulous
+monster so often written about, and yet whose existence cannot be
+disproved. The sea-serpent's tail is flattened.
+
+At Calcutta I visited a tea firm, who sent me up to Cachar to help at
+one of the gardens till a vacancy should occur. Calcutta, by the way, is
+or was overrun by jackals at night. They are the scavengers of the town
+and hunt in packs through the streets, their wolfish yelling being a
+little disconcerting to a stranger.
+
+It was a long twelve days, but again a very interesting journey, in a
+native river boat, four rowers (or towers), to my destination. I had a
+servant with me, who proved a good, efficient cook and attendant. It was
+rather trying to the "griffin" to notice, floating in the river, corpses
+of natives, frequently perched upon by hungry vultures.
+
+The tea-garden selected for me was Narainpore, successfully managed by a
+fellow-countryman, who proved to be a capital chap and who made my stay
+with him very pleasant. Narainpore was one of the oldest gardens, on
+teelah (hilly) land and quite healthy. There I gave what little help I
+could, picked up some of the lingo, and learned a good deal about the
+planting, growth and manufacture of tea. Neighbours were plentiful and
+life quite sociable. Twice a week in the cold weather we played polo,
+sometimes with Munipoories, a hill tribe whose national game it is, and
+who were then the undoubted champions. The Regent Senaputti was a keen
+player, and very picturesque in his costume of green velvet zouave
+jacket, salmon-pink silk dhotee and pink silk turban. In Munipoor even
+the children have their weekly polo matches. They breed ponies specially
+for the game, and use them for nothing else, nor would they sell their
+best. Still, we rode Munipoor "tats" costing us from 50 rupees to 100.
+They were exceedingly small, averaging not eleven hands high, but wiry,
+active, speedy, full of grit, and seemed to love the game. As the game
+was there played, seven formed a side, the field was twice as large as
+now and there were no goals. The ball had to be simply driven over the
+end line to count a score.
+
+It may be remarked here that the great Akbar was so fond of polo, but
+otherwise so busy, that he played the game at night with luminous balls.
+
+These Munipoories were a very fine race of people, much lighter of
+colour than their neighbouring tribes, very stately and dignified in
+their bearing, and thorough sportsmen. Many of their women were really
+handsome, and the girls, with red hibiscus blossoms stuck in their
+jet-black hair, and their merry, laughing faces and graceful figures,
+were altogether quite attractive to the Sahib Log.
+
+But to return to tea. Our bungalow was of the usual type, consisting of
+cement floor, roof of crossed bamboos and two feet of sun-grass thatch,
+supported by immense teak posts, hard as iron and bidding defiance to
+the white ants. The walls were of mats. Tea-gardens usually had a
+surface of 300 to 1000 acres; some were on comparatively level ground,
+some on hilly (teelah) land. These teelahs were always carefully
+terraced to prevent the wash of soil and permit cultivation. The plants
+were spaced about three to six feet apart, according to whether they
+were of the Chinese, the hybrid, or the pure indigenous breed, the last
+being the largest, in its native state developing to the dimensions of a
+small tree.
+
+I may as well here at once give a short sketch of the principal features
+of tea planting and manufacture, which will show what the duties of a
+planter are, and how various are the occupations and operations
+embraced. One must necessarily first have labour (coolies). These are
+recruited in certain districts of India, usually by sending good
+reliable men, already in your employ, to their home country, under a
+contract to pay them so much a head for every coolie they can persuade
+(by lies or otherwise) to come to your garden. The coolies must then
+bind themselves to work for you for, say, three to four years. They are
+paid for their work, not much it is true, but enough to support them
+with comfort; the men about three annas (or fourpence) a day, the women
+two annas (or threepence). As they get to know their work and become
+expert, the good men will earn as much as six annas a day, and some of
+the women, when plucking leaf, about the same. This is more than
+abundant for these people. They not only have every comfort, but they
+become rich, so that in a few years they are able to rest on their
+earnings, and work only at their convenience and when they feel like it.
+They are supplied with nothing, neither food nor clothing; medicine
+alone is free to them. The native staff of a garden consists of, say,
+two baboos, or book-keepers and clerks, a doctor baboo, sirdars or
+overseers, and chowkidars or line watchmen. A sirdar accompanies and has
+charge of each gang of coolies on whatever branch of work. One is also
+in charge of the factory or tea-house.
+
+Plant growth ceases about the end of October. Then cold-weather work
+begins, including the great and important operation of pruning, which
+requires a large force and will occupy most of the winter. Also
+charcoal-burning for next season's supply; road-making, building and
+repairing, jungle-cutting, bridge-building, and nursery-making: that is,
+preparing with great care beds in which the seed will be planted early
+in spring. Cultivation is also, of course, carried on; it can never be
+overdone. In the factory, some men are busy putting together or
+manufacturing new tea-boxes, lining them carefully with lead, which
+needs close attention, as the smallest hole in the lining of a tea-chest
+will cause serious injury to the contents.
+
+When spring opens and the first glorious "flush" is on the bushes, there
+is a readjustment of labour. Pluckers begin to gather the leaf, and as
+the season advances more pluckers are needed, till possibly every man,
+woman and child may be called on for this operation alone, it being so
+important that the leaf flush does not get ahead and out of control, so
+that the leaf would get tough and hard and less fit for manufacture;
+but cultivation is almost equally important, and every available
+labourer is kept hard at it.
+
+What a pleasure it is to watch a good expert workman, be he carpenter,
+bricklayer, ploughman, blacksmith, or only an Irish navvy. In even the
+humblest of these callings the evidence of much training, practice or
+long apprenticeship is noticeable. To an amateur who has tried such work
+himself it will soon be apparent how crude his efforts are, how little
+he knows of the apparently simple operation. The navvy seems to work
+slowly; but he knows well, because his task is a day-long one, that his
+forces must be economised, that over-exertion must be avoided. This
+lesson was brought home to me when exasperated by the seeming laziness
+of the coolie cultivators, I would seize a man's hoe and fly at the
+work, hoe vigorously for perhaps five minutes, swear at the man for his
+lack of strenuousness, then retire and find myself puffing and blowing
+and almost in a state of collapse.
+
+If an addition or extension is being made to the garden, the already cut
+jungle has to be burnt and the ground cleared in early spring, the soil
+broken up and staked: that is, small sticks put in regular rows and
+intervals to show where the young plants are to be put. Then when the
+rains have properly set in the actual planting begins. This is a work
+that requires a lot of labour and close and careful superintendence.
+Imagine what it means to plant out 100 acres of ground, the plants set
+only three or four feet apart! The right plucking of the leaf calls for
+equally careful looking after. The women are paid by the amount or
+weight they pluck, so they are very liable to pluck carelessly and so
+damage the succeeding flush, or they may gather a lot of old leaf
+unsuited for manufacturing purposes. In short, every detail of work,
+even cultivation, demands close supervision and the whole attention of
+the planter.
+
+When the new-plucked leaf is brought home it is spread out to wither in
+suitably-built sheds. (Here begins the tea-maker's responsibility.) Then
+it must be rolled, by hand or by machinery; fermented, and fired or
+dried over charcoal ovens; separated in its different classes, the
+younger the leaf bud the more valuable the tea. It is then packed in
+boxes for market, and sampled by the planter. He does this by weighing a
+tiny quantity of each class or grade of tea into separate cups, pouring
+boiling water on them, and then tasting the liquor by sipping a little
+into the mouth, not to be swallowed, but ejected again.
+
+[Illustration: PLUCKING TEA LEAF.]
+
+All this will give an idea of the variety of duties of a tea-planter. He
+has no time for shooting, polo, or visiting during the busy season. But
+at mid-winter the great annual Mela takes place at the station, the
+local seat of Government. The Mela lasts a couple of weeks, and it is a
+season of fun and jollity with both planters and natives. There were two
+or three social clubs in Silchar; horse and pony racing, polo, cricket
+and football filled the day, dinner and sociability the night; and what
+nights! The amount of liquor consumed at these meetings was almost
+incredible.
+
+Nothing can look more beautiful or more gratifying to the eye of the
+owner than a tract of tea, pruned level as a table and topped with new
+fresh young leaf-shoots, four to eight inches high, in full flush, ready
+for the pluckers' nimble fingers.
+
+At the end of one year I was offered and accepted the position of
+assistant at a Sylhet garden, called Kessoregool, the property
+consisting of three distinct gardens, the principal one being directly
+overseered by the manager, an American. He, of course, was my superior.
+My charge was the Lucky Cherra Gardens, some few miles away. There I
+spent two years, learning what I could of the business, but without the
+advantage of European society; in fact, the Burra Sahib and myself were
+almost the only whites in the district, and as he was drunk quite half
+the time, and we did not pull very well together, I was left to my own
+resources. I found amusement in various ways. There was no polo, but
+some of the native zemindars (landed proprietors) were always ready to
+get up a beat for leopards, tigers, deer and pig. Their method was
+simply to drive the game into a net corral and spear them to death. The
+Government Keddas, under Colonel Nuttal, were also not far away in hill
+Tipperah, and it was intensely interesting to watch operations. Close to
+my garden also was a sacred pool and a very beautiful waterfall. This
+was visited twice a year by immense numbers of natives, some from great
+distances, for it was a famous and renowned place of pilgrimage. It
+could only be approached through my garden; and as there was no wagon
+road, the pilgrims were always open to inspection, so to speak; and they
+were well worth inspection, as among them were many races, all ages,
+both sexes, every caste or jat; robes, turbans and cupras of every shape
+and colour; fakirs and wonder-workers, and beggars galore. Here, and on
+such an occasion only, could the sahib see face to face the harems of
+the wealthy natives, consisting of women who at no other time showed
+themselves out of doors. Being the only sahib present I had all the "fun
+of the fair" to myself, but always regretted the want of a companion to
+share it with me.
+
+As to wild game, there were lots of jungle fowl (original stock of our
+familiar barn-door cocks and hens), a few pigeons, Argus pheasants,
+small barking deer, pigs, sambur, barrasingha, metnas, crocodiles,
+leopards, tigers, bears and elephants; but I had little time for
+shooting and it was expensive work, the jungle being so thick that
+riding elephants were quite necessary. If keen enough, one could sit all
+night on a machan in a tree near a recent "kill," on the chance of
+Stripes showing himself; but it never appealed to me much, that kind of
+sport. If a tiger was raiding the cattle I would poison the "kill" with
+strychnine. In this way I secured several very fine animals, getting two
+at one time, so successfully poisoned that their bodies actually lay on
+the dead bullock. One time I shot an enormous python, some eighteen feet
+in length, which took several men to carry home. Monkeys were plentiful
+and of several kinds. I was very fond of wandering amongst the high-tree
+jungle and quietly watching their antics. In the dense forest there is
+little undergrowth, so that one can move about freely and study the
+extraordinary forms of vegetation displayed. Ticks and leeches are to
+be dreaded--a perfect nuisance. If you sit down or pause for a few
+moments where no leeches are in sight, suddenly and quickly they will
+appear marching on you, or at you, at a gallop.
+
+The popular idea of a wealth of flowers in tropical jungles is a
+misconception. In tree jungle no flowers are to be found, or at any rate
+they are not visible. But if one can by some means attain an elevation
+and so be able to overlook the tree-tops, he will probably be rewarded
+with a wonderful display, as many jungle trees are glorified with crowns
+of gorgeous colours. There will he also discover the honey-suckers,
+moths, butterflies, the beetles, and all the other insect brood which he
+had also vainly looked for before. The fruits are likewise borne aloft,
+and therefore at the proper time these tree-tops will be the haunt of
+the monkeys, the parrots, the bats, the toucans, and all frugivorous
+creation.
+
+Of all fruits the durian is the most delicious. Such is the universal
+opinion of men, including A. R. Wallace, who have had the opportunity of
+becoming familiar with it. It is purely tropical, grows on a lofty tree,
+is round and nearly as large as a cocoanut. A thick and tough rind
+protects the delicacy contained within. When opened five cells are
+revealed, satiny white, containing masses of cream-coloured pulp. This
+pulp is the edible portion and has an indescribable flavour and
+consistence. You can safely eat all you want of it, and the more you eat
+the more you will want. To eat durian, as Mr Wallace says, is alone
+worth a voyage to the East. But it has one strange quality--it smells so
+badly as to be at first almost nauseating; some people even can never
+bring themselves to touch it. Once this repulsion is mastered the fruit
+will probably be preferred to all other foods. The natives give it
+honourable titles, exalt it, and even wax poetical over it.
+
+Of course we all know the multitudinous uses of the bamboo. This grass
+is one of the most wonderful, beautiful and useful of Nature's gifts to
+uncivilized man. And yet one more use has been found for it. In the East
+a new industry has sprung up, viz., the making of "Panama" hats of
+bamboo strips or threads. In texture and pliability these hats are said
+to even surpass the genuine "Panamas," are absolutely impervious to
+rain, and can be produced at a much lower cost.
+
+The Looshais killed pigs, and even tigers, by ingeniously setting
+poisoned arrows in the woods, which were released by the animals
+pressing on a string. One of my coolies was unfortunate enough to be
+shot and killed in this way.
+
+Growing on decayed tree stumps I frequently found a saprophyte
+(_hymenophallus_), much larger than its English representative, indeed a
+monster in comparison, and possessing a vile and most odious smell, yet
+attractive to certain depraved insects.
+
+I made a very fine collection of butterflies, moths and beetles, which,
+however, was entirely destroyed by worms or ants during its passage to
+England. The magnificent Atlas moth was common in Sylhet and Cachar.
+What an extraordinarily beautiful creature it is, sometimes so large as
+to cover a dinner-plate. I never was privileged to see it fly. It seemed
+to be always in a languid or torpid condition.
+
+Thunderstorms occur almost daily during the wet season. By lightning I
+lost several people. In one case, whilst standing watching a man remove
+seedlings from a nursery bed, standing indeed immediately behind and
+close to him, there came a thrilling flash of lightning. It shook myself
+as well as several women who stood by. The man in front of me, who had
+been sitting on his haunches with a steel-ribbed umbrella over him,
+remained silent and still. At last I called on him to continue his work
+and pulled back the umbrella to see his face. He was stone dead.
+Examination showed a small blackish spot where the steel rib had rested
+and conveyed the fatal shock.
+
+The approach of the daily rainstorm, usually about noon, was a
+remarkable sight. Immense fan-shaped, thunderous-looking clouds would
+come rolling up, billow upon billow, travelling at great speed and
+accompanied by terrific wind. A flash of lightning and a crashing peal
+of thunder and the deluge began, literally a deluge. The rainfall
+averaged about 180 inches in seven months. At Cherrapunji, in the Kassia
+Hills, within sight of my place and only about twenty miles distant, the
+rainfall was and is the greatest in the world, no other district
+approaching it in this respect, viz., averaging per annum 450 inches;
+greatest recorded over 900 inches; and there is a record of _one_ month,
+July, of a fall of nearly 400 inches; yet all this precipitation takes
+place during the six or seven wet months, the rest of the year being
+absolutely dry and rainless. These measurements are recorded at the
+Government Observatory Station and need not be disputed. It may readily
+be supposed that the wet season, summer, with its high temperature and
+damp atmosphere, was very trying to the European, and even to the
+imported coolies. Imagine living for six continuous months in the
+hottest palm-house in Kew Gardens; yet the planter is out and about all
+day long; nearly always on pony back, however, an enormously thick solah
+toppee hat or a heavy white umbrella protecting his head. The dry, or
+cold season, however, was delightful.
+
+Close to Lucky Cherra Garden was a tract of bustee land on which some
+Bengali cultivators grew rice and other crops. Our Company's boundary
+line in some way conflicted with theirs, and a dispute arose which soon
+developed into a series of, first, most comical mix-ups, and afterwards
+into desperate "lathi" fights. The land in dispute was being hurriedly
+ploughed by buffalo teams belonging to the Bengalis; to uphold our claim
+I also secured teams and put them to ploughing on the same piece of
+ground. This could only lead to one thing--as said before, terrific
+lathi fights between the teamsters. For several days I went down to see
+the fun, taking with me a number of the stoutest coolies on the garden.
+The men seemed to rather enjoy the sport, though a lick from a lathi (a
+formidable tough, hard and heavy cane) was far from a joke. Finally the
+bustee-wallahs agreed to stop operations and await legal judgment.
+
+After eighteen months I was suddenly left in sole charge of all the
+Company's gardens, the Burra Sahib having finally succumbed to drink;
+but I was not long left in charge, being soon relieved by a more
+experienced man. Shortly after I was ordered to Scottpore Garden in
+Cachar, the manager of which, a particularly fine man and a great
+friend of mine, had suffered the awful death of being pierced by the
+very sharp end of a heavy, newly-cut bamboo, which he seems to have
+ridden against in the dark. He always rode at great speed, and he too,
+in this way, was a victim of drink. The tremendously high death-rate
+amongst planters was directly due to this fatal habit.
+
+Scottpore was a new (young) garden, not teelah, but level land, having
+extremely rich soil. The bushes showed strong growth and there were no
+"vacancies"; indeed it was a model plantation. Unfortunately, it had the
+character of extreme unhealthiness. Of my three predecessors two had
+died of fever and one as before mentioned. The coolie death-rate was
+shocking; so bad that, during my management, a Government Commission was
+sent to look into the situation, and the absolute closing of the garden
+was anticipated. The result was that I was debarred from recruiting and
+importing certain coolies from certain districts in India, they being
+peculiarly susceptible to fever and dysentery. Almost every day at
+morning muster the doctor reported so and so, or so many, dead, wiped
+off the roll. Naturally the place suffered from lack of labour, a
+further draining of the force being the absconding of coolies, running
+off, poor devils, to healthier places, and the stealing of my people by
+unscrupulous planters.
+
+On several occasions, when riding home on dark nights, have I detected
+white objects on the side of the road. Not a movement would be seen, not
+a sound or a breath heard, only an ominous, suspicious silence reigned;
+it meant that these were some of my people absconding, being perhaps led
+off by a pimp from another garden--and woe betide the pimp if caught. I
+would call out to them, and if they did not respond would go after them;
+but generally they were too scared to resist or to attempt further to
+escape; so I would drive them in front of me back to the garden, inspect
+them and take their names, try to find out who had put them up to it,
+etc., and dismiss them to the lines in charge of the night-watchman. You
+could not well punish them, though a good caning was administered
+sometimes to the men. Thus the plantation, instead of presenting a
+clean, well-cultivated appearance, had often that of an enormous
+hayfield; nevertheless the output and manufacture of tea was large and
+the quality good. All that I myself could and did take credit for was
+this "quality," as the prices obtained in Calcutta were the best of all
+the Company's gardens.
+
+At Scottpore there was no lack of neighbours. My bungalow was on two
+cross-roads, a half-way house so to speak; consequently someone was
+continually dropping in. Frequently three or four visitors would arrive
+unannounced for dinner; the house was always "wide open." Whisky, brandy
+and beer were always on the sideboard, and in my absence the bearer or
+khansamah was expected, as a matter of course, to offer refreshments to
+all comers. The planter's code of hospitality demanded this, but it was
+the financial ruin of the Chota Sahib, depending solely on his modest
+salary.
+
+At Scottpore I went in strong for vegetable, fruit and flower gardening,
+and not without success. Visitors came from a distance to view the
+flower-beds and eat my green peas, and I really think that I grew as
+fine pineapples and bananas as were produced anywhere. The pineapple of
+good stock and ripened on the plant is, I think, the most exquisite of
+all fruits. A really ripe pine contains no fibre. You cut the top off
+and sup the delicious mushy contents with a spoon.
+
+In such a hot, steamy climate as we had in these tea districts, the
+rapidity of growth of vegetation is, of course, remarkable. Bamboos
+illustrate this better than other plants, their growth being so much
+more noticeable, that of a young shoot amounting to as much as four
+inches in one night. It sometimes appeared to my imagination that the
+weeds and grass grew one foot in a like period, especially when short of
+labour. The planter usually takes a pride in the well-cultivated
+appearance of the garden in his charge; but how can one be proud if the
+weeds overtop the bushes? It may be appropriate here to note that
+eighty-five per cent. of the twenty-four hours' growth of plants occurs
+between 12 p.m. and 6 a.m.; during the noon hours the apparent growth
+almost entirely ceases.
+
+Garden coolies are generally Hindoos and are imported from far-off
+districts. The local peasantry of Bengal are mostly Mohammedans and do
+not work on tea-gardens, except on such jobs as cutting jungle,
+building, etc. They speak a somewhat different tongue, so that we had to
+understand Bengali as well as Hindustani. I may mention here that as
+Hindoos regard an egg as defiling, and Mohammedans despise an eater of
+pork, our love for ham and eggs alienates us from both these classes;
+what beasts we must be! The Hindoos and the Bengal Mussulmans are
+characterized by cringing servility, open insolence, or rude
+indifference. Contrast with this the Burmese agreeableness and
+affability, or the bearing of the Rajput and the Sikh. In those days the
+natives cringed before the Sahib Log much more than they do now. Then
+all had to put their umbrellas down on passing a sahib, and all had to
+leave the side-walk on the white man's approach; not that the law
+compelled them to do so, it was simply a custom enforced by their
+masters, in the large cities as well as in the mofussil.
+
+We thought it advisable at all costs to keep the coolies in a proper
+state of subjection. Thus, when on a certain occasion a coolie of mine
+raised his kodalie (hoe) to strike me I had to give him a very severe
+thrashing. Another time a man appeared somewhat insolent in his talk to
+me and I unfortunately hit him a blow on the body, from the effects of
+which he died next day. Some of these people suffer from enlarged
+spleens and even a slight jar on that part of their anatomy may prove
+fatal.
+
+A few more notes. Among the Sontals in Bengal the snake stone, found
+within the head of the Adjutant-bird, is applied to a snake bite exactly
+in the same way and with the same supposed results as the Texas
+madstone, an accretion found, it is said, in the system of a white stag.
+Many natives of India die from purely imaginary snake bites.
+
+In Oude there have been many instances verified, or at least impossible
+of contradiction, of so-called wolf-children, infants stolen by wolves
+and suckled by them, that go on all fours, eat only raw meat, and, of
+course, speak no language.
+
+The Nagas, a hill tribe and not very desirable neighbours, practise the
+refined custom of starving a dog, then supplying it with an enormous
+feed of rice; and when the stomach is properly distended, killing it,
+the half-digested mess forming the _bonne-bouche_ of the tribal feast.
+
+Snake stories are always effective. I have none to tell. My bungalow
+roof, the thatch, was at all times infested by snakes, some quite large.
+At night one frequently heard them gliding between the bamboos and
+grass, chasing mice, beetles, or perhaps lizards, and sometimes falling
+on the top of the mosquito bar, or even on the dinner-table; but these
+were probably harmless creatures, as most snakes are. The cobra was not
+common in Cachar. It may be said here that a snake's mouth opens
+crossways as well as vertically, and each side has the power of working
+independently, the teeth being re-curved backwards. Prey once in the
+jaws cannot escape, and the snake itself can only dispose of it in one
+way--downwards.
+
+At Scottpore I employed an elephant for certain work, such as hauling
+heavy posts out of the jungle. Sometimes his "little Mary" would trouble
+him, when a dose of castor oil would be effectively administered.
+Unfortunately, he misbehaved, ran amok, and tried to kill his mahout,
+and so that hatthi (elephant) had to be disposed of.
+
+When clearing jungle for a tea-garden the workmen sometimes come on a
+certain species of tree, of which they are in great dread. They cannot
+be induced to cut it down and so the tree remains. Such a one stood
+opposite my bungalow, a stately, handsome monarch of the forest. It was
+a sacred, or rather a haunted tree, but as its shade was injurious to
+tea-plant growth I was determined to have it destroyed. None of my
+people would touch it; so I sent over to a neighbour and explained the
+facts to him, requesting him to send over a gang of his men to do the
+deed. I was to see that they had no communication with my own people.
+Well, his men came and were put to work with axes. The result? Two of
+them died that day and the rest bolted. Yet this is not more
+extraordinary than people dying of imaginary snake bites.
+
+Shortly afterwards an incident occurred to still further strengthen the
+native belief that the tree was haunted. I had a very fine bull terrier
+which slept in the porch at night, the night-watchman also sleeping
+there. One time I was aroused by terrific yells from the dog, and called
+to the watchman to know the trouble. After apparently recovering from
+his fright he told me the devil had come from the tree and carried off
+the dog. The morning showed traces of a tiger's or leopard's pugs, and
+my poor terrier was of course never seen again.
+
+The hill tribes surrounding the valley of Cachar were the Kassias,
+Nagas, Kookies, Munipoories and Looshais, all of very similar type,
+except that the Munipoories were of somewhat lighter skin, were more
+civilized and handsomer. The Kassias were noted for their wonderful
+muscular development, no doubt accounted for by their being
+mountaineers, their poonjes (villages) being situated on the sides of
+high and steep mountains. All their market products, supplies, etc.,
+were packed up and down these hills in thoppas, a sort of baskets or
+chairs slung on the back by a band over the forehead. In this way even a
+heavy man would be carried up the steep mountain-side, and generally by
+a woman.
+
+Once, in later years, whilst in Mexico, near Crizaba, I was intensely
+surprised to meet in the forest a string of Indios going to market and
+using this identical thoppa; the similar cut of the hair across the
+forehead, the blanket and dress, the physical features, even the
+peculiar grunt emitted when carrying a weight, settled for me the
+long-disputed question of the origin of the Aztecs. In Venezuela I saw
+exactly the same type in Castro's Indian troops, as also in the Indian
+natives of Peru.
+
+[Illustration: NAGAS]
+
+The Kassias were fond of games, such as tossing the caber, putting the
+weight and throwing the hammer, apparently a tribal institution. The
+Kookies and Nagas were restless, warlike and troublesome, and addicted
+to head hunting. They periodically raided some tea-gardens to secure
+lead for bullets, and incidentally heads as trophies. Several planters
+had been thus massacred, and at outlying gardens there was always this
+dread and danger. On one occasion an urgent message was brought to me
+from such a garden, whose manager happened to be in Calcutta. His head
+baboo begged me to come over and take charge, if only to reassure the
+coolies, who had been running off into the jungle on the report of a
+threatened Naga raid. On going over I found the people tremendously
+excited, and most of them scared nearly to death. My presence seemed to
+allay their fright, though if the savages had come we could have done
+nothing, having only a few rifles in the place and the coolies totally
+demoralized. Luckily Mr Naga did not appear.
+
+The Looshais were a particularly warlike race, and gardens situated near
+their territory were supplied by Government with stands of arms and had
+stockades for defence in case of attack.
+
+The tea-planter's life was to me a very enjoyable one. There was lots of
+interesting work to be done, lots of sport and amusement, and lots of
+good fellows. The life promised to be an ideal one. For its enjoyment,
+however, indeed for its possibility, there is one essential--good
+health. Unfortunately that, during the whole period at Scottpore, was
+not mine; for the whole eighteen months fever had its grip on me;
+appetite was quite gone, and I subsisted on nothing but eggs, milk and
+whisky. Six months more would have done me up; but just at this time
+came the announcement of my father's death. For this reason and on
+account of my health I resigned the position and prepared to visit home,
+meaning to return, however, to India.
+
+I determined before going to look out a piece of land suitable for a
+small plantation; and, after much consideration, decided to hunt for it
+in Eastern Sylhet. So bidding adieu to friends I hied me down to the
+selected district, secured a good man as guide (a man of intelligence
+and intimate knowledge of the country was essential), and hired an
+elephant to carry us and break a way through the jungle. In the course
+of our search we came to a piece of seemingly swampy ground; the high
+reeds which had once covered it had been eaten down and the surface of
+the bog trodden on till it became caked, firm and almost solid. Our
+path was across it, but on coming to the edge the elephant refused to
+proceed. On the mahout urging him he roared and protested in every way,
+so much so that I was somewhat alarmed and suggested to the mahout that
+the elephant knew better than he the danger of proceeding. Finally,
+however, the elephant decided to try the ground, and carefully and
+slowly he made his way across, his great feet at every step depressing
+the surface, which perceptibly waved like thin ice all around him. I was
+prepared and ready to jump clear at the first sign of danger, for had we
+broken through we should have probably all disappeared in the bog.
+Hatthi was as much relieved as myself on reaching terra firma. My guide
+told me that this land had no bottom, that under the packed surface
+there was twenty feet of soft, black, loamy mud. This set me thinking. I
+was after something of this nature. In the course of the next day we
+came upon a somewhat similar piece of ground, some 300 acres in extent,
+still covered with the original reeds and other vegetation. The soil was
+in places exposed and was of a rich, dark brown loamy character. Taking
+a long ten-foot bamboo and pressing it firmly on the ground it could be
+forced nearly out of sight. That was enough for me. The object sought
+for was found. Further tests with a spade and bamboo were made at
+different points; deep drainage seemed practicable, and, what was quite
+important, a small navigable river bounded the property. Then I hunted
+up a native surveyor, traced the proposed boundaries, got numbers and
+data, etc., to enable me to send my application to the proper quarter,
+which I soon afterwards did, making a money deposit in part payment to
+the Government. My task was completed, and I at once started for
+Calcutta and home.
+
+As things turned out I never returned to the country and so had to
+abandon my rights, etc.; but in support of my judgment I was very much
+gratified to learn years afterwards that someone else had secured and
+developed this particular piece of land as a tea-garden, and that it had
+turned out to be the most valuable, much the most valuable, piece of tea
+land, acre for acre, in the whole country. Often and bitterly since then
+have I regretted not being able to return and develop and operate this
+ideal location. More than that, I had learned the tea-growing business,
+had devoted over three years to its careful study, felt myself in every
+way competent, and had found a life in many ways suited to my tastes.
+All this had to be abandoned. In India the white man lives in great
+luxury. He has a great staff of servants, his every whim and wish is
+anticipated and satisfied, his comfort watched over. To leave _this_,
+to go straight out to the West, the wild and woolly West, where servants
+were not! The very suggestion of such a thing to me on leaving India
+would have received no consideration whatever. It would have seemed
+utterly impossible, but "El Hombre propone y el Deos depone" as the
+Mexicans say.
+
+During the whole four years' stay in India I was practically barred from
+ladies' society, nearly all the planters being unmarried men. Alas! for
+twenty years longer of my life this very unfortunate and demoralizing
+condition was to continue.
+
+There were no railroads then to Cachar and no steamers, so I again
+performed the journey to Calcutta in a native boat, and there,
+by-the-bye, I witnessed the sight for the first time of an apparent
+lunatic playing a game called Golf; a game which later was to be more
+familiar to me, and myself to become one of the greatest lunatics of
+all. The run home was in no way remarkable, except for the intense
+anticipated pleasure of again seeing the old country.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+CATTLE RANCHING IN ARIZONA
+
+     Leave for United States of America--Iowa--New Mexico--Real Estate
+     Speculation--Gambling--Billy the Kid--Start Ranching in
+     Arizona--Description of Country--Apache and other
+     Indians--Fauna--Branding Cattle--Ranch
+     Notes--Mexicans--Politics--Summer Camp--Winter Camp--Fishing and
+     Shooting--Indian Troubles.
+
+
+My health seemed to have reached a more serious condition than imagined;
+and so on the advice of my friends, but with much regret, I decided to
+henceforth cast my lot in a more bracing climate. Having no profession,
+and hating trade in any form, the choice was limited and confined to
+live stock or crop farming of one kind or another.
+
+Accordingly, after six months at home and on complete recovery of
+health, I took my way to the United States of America, first to Lemars
+in Iowa, where was a well-known colony of Britishers, said Britishers
+consisting almost entirely of the gentlemen class, some with much money,
+some with little, none of them with much knowledge of practical business
+life or affairs, all of them with the idea of social superiority over
+the natives, which they very foolishly showed. Sport, not work, occupied
+their whole time and attention. Altogether it seemed that this was no
+place for one who had to push his fortunes. The climate, too, seemed to
+be far from agreeable, in summer being very hot, in winter very cold;
+so, with another man, I decided to go further west and south, to the
+sheep and cattle country of New Mexico; not that I had any knowledge of
+sheep or cattle, hardly knowing the one from the other; but the nature
+of Ranch life (Ranch with a big R) and the romance attaching to it had
+much to do with my determination.
+
+Arrived in New Mexico I went to live with a sheepman--a practical
+sheepman from Australia--to study the industry and see how I liked it.
+In the neighbourhood was a cattle ranch and a lot of cowboys. I saw much
+of _their_ life, and was so attracted by it that the sheep proposition
+was finally abandoned as unsuitable. Still, I was very undecided, knew
+little of the ways of the country and still less of the cattle business.
+I moved to the small town of Las Vegas, then about the western end of
+the Santa F� railroad. Here I stayed six months, making acquaintances
+and listening to others' experiences.
+
+Las Vegas was then a true frontier town. It was "booming," full of life
+and all kinds of people, money plentiful, saloons, gambling-dens and
+dance-halls "wide open." Real Estate was moving freely, prices
+advancing, speculation rife, and--I caught the infection! A few
+successful deals gave me courage and tempted me further. I became a real
+gambler. On some deals I made tremendous profits. I even owned a saloon
+and gambling-hall, which paid me a huge rental and gave me my drinks
+free! The world looked "easy."
+
+Not content with Las Vegas, I followed the road to Albuquerque and
+Socorro, had some deals there and spent my evenings playing poker, faro
+and monte with the best and "toughest" of them. Santa F�, the capital,
+was then as much a "hell" as Las Vegas.
+
+Let me try to describe one of these gambling resorts. A long, low room,
+probably a saloon, with the pretentious bar in front; tables on either
+side of the room, and an eager group round each one, the game being
+roulette, faro, highball, poker, crapps or monte. The dealers, or
+professional gamblers, are easily distinguished. Their dress consists
+invariably of a well-laundered "biled" (white) shirt, huge diamond stud
+in front, no collar or tie, perhaps a silk handkerchief tied loosely
+round the neck, and an open unbuttoned waistcoat. They are necessarily
+cool, wide-awake, self-possessed men. All in this room are chewing
+tobacco and distributing the results freely on the floor. Now and then
+the dealers call for drinks all round, perhaps to keep the company
+together and encourage play. But poker, the royal game, the best of all
+gambling games, is generally played in a retired room, where quietness
+and some privacy are secured. Mere idlers and "bums" are not wanted
+around; perhaps the room is a little cleaner, but the floor is littered,
+if the game has lasted long, with dozens of already used and abandoned
+packs of cards. At Las Vegas the majority of the players were cowboys
+and cattlemen; at Socorro miners and prospectors; at Albuquerque all
+kinds; at Santa F� politicians and officials and Mexicans, but Chinamen,
+always a few Chinamen, everywhere; and what varied types of men one rubs
+shoulders with! The cowpunchers, probably pretty well "loaded" (tipsy),
+the "prominent" lawyer, the horny-handed miner, the inscrutable "John";
+the scout, or frontier man, with hair long as a woman's; the half-breed
+Mexican or greaser elbowing a don of pure Castilian blood; the men all
+"packing" guns (six-shooters), some in the pocket, some displayed
+openly. The dealer, of course, has his lying handy under the table; but
+shooting scrapes are rare. If there is any trouble it will be settled
+somewhere else afterwards.
+
+But things took a turn; slackness, then actual depression in Real Estate
+values set in, and oh! how quickly. Like many others, I got scared and
+hastened to "get out." It was almost too late, not quite. On cleaning
+up, my financial position was just about the same as at the beginning of
+the campaign. It was a lesson, a valuable experience; but I admit that
+Real Estate speculation threw a glamour over me that still remains. It
+is the way to wealth for the man who knows how to go about it.
+
+About this time two Englishmen arrived in Las Vegas, and we soon got
+acquainted. One could easily see that they were not tenderfeet. On the
+contrary, they appeared to be shrewd, practical men of affairs. They had
+been cattle ranching up north for some years, had a good knowledge of
+the business, and were "good fellows." They had come south to look out a
+cattle ranch and continue in the business. They wanted a little more
+capital, which seemed my opportunity, and the upshot was that we formed
+a partnership, for good or for ill, which lasted for many years (over
+twelve), but which was never financially successful. Considering my
+entire ignorance of cattle affairs, and having abounding confidence in
+my two partners, I agreed to leave the entire control and management in
+their hands.
+
+It was about this time (1883) that I was fortunate enough to meet at
+Fort Sumner the then great Western celebrity, "Billy the Kid." Billy was
+a young cowboy who started wrong by using his gun on some trivial
+occasion. Like all, or at least many, young fellows of his age he wanted
+to appear a "bad man." One shooting scrape led to another; he became an
+outlaw; cattle troubles, and finally the Lincoln County War, in which he
+took a leading part, gave him every opportunity for his now murdering
+propensities, so that soon the tally of his victims amounted to some
+twenty-five lives. The Lincoln County New Mexico "War," in which it is
+believed that first to last over 200 men were killed, was purely a
+cattleman's war, but the most terrible and bloody that ever took place
+in the West. New Mexico was at that time probably the most lawless
+country in the world.
+
+Only a month after my meeting Billy in Fort Sumner he was killed there,
+not in his "boots," but in his stockings, by Sheriff Pat Garret. He was
+shot practically in his bed and given no "show." His age when killed was
+only twenty-three years. There were afterwards many other "kids" emulous
+of Billy's renown, because of which, and their youthfulness, they were
+always the most dangerous of men.
+
+Our senior partner, not satisfied with New Mexico, went out to Arizona
+for a look round, liked the prospect, and decided to locate there, so we
+moved out accordingly. Arizona (Arida Zona) was at this time a
+practically new and unoccupied territory; that is, though there were a
+few Mexicans, a few Mormons and a great many Indians, a few sheep and
+fewer cattle, it could not be called a settled country, and most of the
+grazing land was in a virgin state.
+
+My partner had bought out a Mexican's rights, his cattle, water-claims,
+ranches, etc., located at the Cienega in Apache county, near the
+head-waters of the Little Colorado River. To close the deal part payment
+in advance had to be made; and to ensure promptness the paper was given
+to my care to be delivered to the seller as quickly as possible.
+Accordingly I travelled by train to the nearest railroad point,
+Holbrook, found an army ambulance about to convey the commanding officer
+to Camp Apache, and he was good enough to allow me to accompany him part
+of the way. It was a great advantage to me, as otherwise there was no
+conveyance, nor had I a horse or any means of getting to the ranch,
+about eighty miles. Judging from the colonel's armed guard and the fact
+of travelling at night, it occurred to me that something was wrong, and
+on questioning him he told me that he would not take any "chances," that
+the Apaches were "out" on the war-path, but that they never attacked in
+the dark. This lent more interest to the trip, though it was interesting
+enough to me simply to see the nature of the country where we had
+decided to make our home. We got through all right. Next morning I hired
+a horse and reached the ranch the same day.
+
+As this was to be our country for many years to come, it will be well to
+describe its physical features, etc. Arizona, of course, is a huge
+territory, some 400 by 350 miles. It embraces pure unadulterated desert
+regions in the west; a large forest tract in the centre; the rest has a
+semi-arid character, short, scattering grass all over it; to the eye of
+a stranger a dreary and desolate region! The east central part, where we
+were, has a general elevation of 4000 to 6000 feet above sea-level, so
+that the fierce summer heat is tempered to some extent, especially after
+sundown. In winter there were snowstorms and severe cold, but the snow
+did not lie long, except in the mountains, where it reached a depth of
+several feet.
+
+The Little Colorado River (Colorado Chiquito), an affluent of the
+Greater River, had its headquarters in the mountains, south of our
+ranch. It was a small stream, bright and clear, and full of speckled
+trout in its upper part; lower down most of the time dry; at other times
+a flood of red muddy water, or a succession of small, shallow pools of a
+boggy, quicksandy nature, that ultimately cost us many thousands of
+cattle. The western boundary of Arizona is the Big Colorado River.
+Where the Santa F� railroad crosses it at the Needles is one of the
+hottest places in North America. In summer the temperature runs up to as
+high as 120 degrees Fahr., and I have even heard it asserted to go to
+125 degrees in the shade; and I cannot doubt it, as even on our own
+ranch the thermometer often recorded 110 degrees; that at an elevation
+of 4000 feet, whereas the Needles' elevation above sea-level is only a
+few hundreds. At Jacobabad, India, the greatest heat recorded is 126
+degrees, and at Kashan, in Persia, a month--August--averaged 127
+degrees, supposed to be the hottest place on earth.
+
+Above the Needles begins or ends the very wonderful Grand Ca�on,
+extending north for 270 miles, its depth in places being as much as 6000
+feet, and that at certain points almost precipitously. The wonderful
+colouring of the rocks, combined with the overpowering grandeur of it,
+make it one of the most impressive and unique sights of the world.
+
+Now, stop and think what that is--2000 yards! say a mile; and imagine
+the effect on a stranger when he first approaches it, which he will
+generally do without warning--nothing, absolutely nothing, to indicate
+the presence of this wonderful gorge till he arrives at its very brink.
+Its aspect is always changing according to the hour of day, the period
+of the year, the atmospheric conditions. The air is dry and bracing at
+all times; and as pure, clear and free from dust or germs as probably
+can be found anywhere on earth. The panorama may be described as
+"_wundersch�n_." Anyone of sensibility will sit on the rock-rim for
+hours, possibly days, in dumb contemplation of the beauty and immensity.
+No one has yet, not even the most eloquent writer, been quite able to
+express his feelings and sentiments, though many have attempted to do so
+in the hotel register; some of the greatest poets and thinkers admitting
+in a few lines their utter inability. Our Colorado Chiquito in its lower
+parts has an equally romantic aspect.
+
+Close to our ranch was another of Nature's wonders, a petrified forest,
+quite unique in that the exposed tree trunks are solid masses of agate,
+chalcedony, jasper, opal and other silicate crystals, the variety of
+whose colouring, with their natural brilliancy, makes a wonderfully
+beautiful combination. These trees are supposed to have been the Norfolk
+Island pine, a tree now extinct, are of large dimensions, all prostrate,
+lying in no particular order, and all broken up into large or smaller
+sections. Many carloads have been removed and shipped to Eastern
+factories, where the sections are sawn through and polished, and the
+most lovely table tops, etc., imaginable produced. One must beware of
+rattlesnakes when prowling about these "ruins."
+
+To complete the physical description of Arizona territory something must
+be said of the pine-clad mountain range to the south of us. The bulk of
+this area constituted the Apache Indian Reservation. It was reserved for
+these Indians as a hunting-ground as well as a home. No one else was
+allowed to settle within its boundaries, or graze their sheep or cattle
+there. It was truly a hunter's paradise, being largely covered with
+forest trees, broken here and there by open parks and glades and meadow
+lands, drained by streams of clear cool water, which combining, produced
+a few considerable-sized rivers, "hotching" with trout, unsophisticated
+and so simple in their natures that it seemed a positive shame to take
+advantage of them. These mountains were the haunt of the elk, the
+big-horned sheep, black-and white-tailed deer, grizzly, cinnamon, silver
+tip, and brown and black bears; the porcupine, racoon and beaver; also
+the prong-horned antelope, though it is more of a plains country animal.
+But more of this some other time.
+
+The Apache Indians (Apache is not their proper name, but Tinneh; the
+former was given to them by the Mexicans and signifies "enemy") were
+and are the most dreaded of all the redskin tribes. They always have
+been warlike and perhaps naturally cruel, and at the time of our arrival
+in the country they had about attained their most bloodthirsty and
+murderous character. Shocking ill-treatment by white skalawags and
+United States officials had changed their nature; but more about them
+also by-and-by.
+
+North of us were the numerous and powerful Navajo Indians. They were not
+so much dreaded by us, their Reservation being further away, and they
+then being of a peaceful disposition, devoted to horse and sheep
+breeding and the manufacture of blankets.
+
+These are the famous Navajo blankets so often seen in English homes,
+valued for the oddness of their patterns and colours, but used in
+Arizona mainly as saddle blankets. The majority of them are coarsely
+made and of little intrinsic value; but others, made for the chiefs or
+other special purposes, are finely woven, very artistic, and sell for
+large sums of money. Rain will not penetrate them and they make
+excellent bed coverings.
+
+These Navajoes used to declare that they would never quit the war-path
+till a certain "Dancing Man" appeared, and that they would never be
+conquered till then. An American officer, named Backus, at Fort
+Defiance, constructed a dummy man, who danced by the pulling of wires,
+and showed him to the Indians. They at once accepted him as their
+promised visitor, and have since then never gone on the war-path. This
+may seem an incredible tale, but is a fact.
+
+Also near us were the Zuni Indians, who, like the Pueblo Indians, lived
+in stone-built communal houses, had entirely different customs to those
+of the Apaches and Navajoes, and are perhaps the debased descendants of
+a once powerful and advanced nation. Whilst speaking of Indians, it may
+be said that the plains tribes, such as the Comanches, believe in the
+immortality of the soul and the future life. All will attain it, all
+will reach the Happy Hunting-Ground, unless prevented by such accidents
+as being scalped, which results in annihilation of the soul.
+
+Is it not strange that though these barbarians believe in the
+immortality of the soul yet our materialistic Old Testament never even
+suggests a future life; and it seems that no Jew believes or ever was
+taught to believe in it.
+
+Indian self-torture is to prove one's endurance of pain. A broad knife
+is passed through the pectoral muscles, and a horse-hair rope inserted,
+by which they must swing from a post till the flesh is torn through.
+Indians will never scalp a negro; it is "bad medicine." By the way, is
+not scalping spoken of in the Book of Maccabees as a custom of the Jews
+and Syrians? The tit-bits of a butchered carcass are, to the Indians,
+the intestines, a speciality being the liver with the contents of the
+gall bladder sprinkled over it! Horses, dogs, wolves and skunks are
+greatly valued for food.
+
+Amongst certain tribes Hiawatha was a Messiah of divine origin, but born
+on earth. He appeared long ago as a teacher and prophet, taught them
+picture-writing, healing, etc.; gave them the corn plant and pipe; he
+was an ascetic; told them of the Isles of the Blessed and promised to
+come again. In Mexico Quetzalcohuatl was a similar divine visitor,
+prophet and teacher.
+
+But to return to our own immediate affairs. At a reasonable price we
+bought out another cattleman, his ranches, cattle and saddle horses. As
+required by law, we also adopted and recorded a cattle brand. Our first
+business was to brand our now considerable herd, which entailed an
+immense amount of very hard work. This in later years would have been no
+very great undertaking, but at that time "squeezers" and branding
+"chutes" were not known. Our corrals were primitive and not suited for
+the work, and our cattle extraordinarily wild and not accustomed to
+control of any kind. Indeed, the men we had bought out had sold to us
+for the simple reason that they could not properly handle them. The
+four-legged beasties had got beyond their control, and many of them had
+almost become wild animals. These cattle, too, had very little of the
+"improved" character in them. Well-bred bulls had never been introduced.
+
+Some of the bulls we found had almost reached their allotted
+span--crusty old fellows indeed and scarred in many a battle;
+"moss-heads" we called them, and the term was well applied, for their
+hoary old heads gave the idea of their being covered with moss.
+
+Most of the cattle had never been in a corral in their lives, and some
+of the older steers were absolute "outlaws," magnificent creatures, ten
+to twelve years of age, with immense spreading horns, sleek and glossy
+sides, and quite unmanageable. They could not be got into a herd, or if
+got in, would very soon walk out again. Eventually some had to be shot
+on the range like any wild animal, simply to get rid of them; but they
+at least afforded us many a long and wild gallop.
+
+There was one great steer in particular, reckoned to be ten or twelve
+years old, quite a celebrity in fact on account of his unmanageableness,
+his independence and boldness, which we had frequently seen and tried
+to secure, but hitherto without success. He had a chum, another outlaw,
+and they grazed in a particular part of the range far from the haunts of
+their kin and of man. Three of us undertook to make one more effort to
+secure him. At the headquarters ranch we had gathered a herd of cattle
+and we proposed to try and run the steer in that direction, where the
+other boys would be on the lookout and would head him into the round-up.
+Two of us were to go out and find the steer and start him homewards; I
+myself undertook to wait about half-way, and when they came in sight to
+take up the running and relieve them. They found him all right about
+twenty miles out, turned him and started him. No difficulty so far. He
+ran with the ease of a horse, and he was still going as he willed,
+without having the idea of being coerced. Meantime I had been taking it
+easy, lolling on the ground, my horse beside me with bridle down.
+Suddenly the sound of hoof-beats and a succession of yells warned me to
+"prepare to receive cavalry." Through a cleft in a hill I could see the
+quarry coming at a mad gallop directly for me, the two men pounding
+along behind. I had just time and no more to tighten girth and get into
+the saddle when he was on me, and my horse being a bit drowsy it needed
+sharp digging of the spurs to get out of the way. I forget how many
+miles the boys said they had already run him, but it was a prodigious
+distance and we were still eight miles from the ranch. The steer was
+getting hot, it began to suspect something, and to feel the pressure. As
+he came down on me he looked like a mountain, his eyes were bright, he
+was blowing a bit, and looked particularly nasty. When in such a
+condition it does not do to overpress, as, if you do, the chances are
+the steer will wheel round, challenge you and get on the fight. Much
+circumspection is needed. He will certainly charge you if you get too
+near, and on a tired horse he would have the advantage. So you must e'en
+halt and wait--not get down, that would be fatal--wait five minutes it
+may be, ten minutes, or a quarter of an hour, till the gentleman cools
+off a bit. Then you start him off again, not so much driving him now, he
+won't be driven, but guiding his course towards the herd. In this case
+we succeeded beautifully, though at the end he had to be raced once
+more. And so he was finally headed into the round-up; but dear me, he
+only entered it from curiosity. No round-up for him indeed! no corral
+and no going to market! He entered the herd, took a look round, a sniff
+and a smell, and was off again out at the other side as if the devil was
+after him, and indeed he wasn't far wrong. The chase was abandoned and
+his majesty doomed later on to a rifle bullet wherever found.
+
+Our principal and indeed only corral at that time was of solid stone
+walls, a "blind" corral, and most difficult to get any kind of cattle
+into. While pushing them in, each man had his "rope" down ready to at
+once drop it over the horns of any animal attempting to break back. Thus
+half our force would sometimes be seen tying down these truants, which
+were left lying on the ground to cool their tempers till we had time to
+attend to them; and it is a fact that some of these individuals,
+especially females, died where they lay, apparently of broken hearts or
+shame at their subjection. They showed no sign of injury by rough usage,
+only their damnable tempers, rage and chagrin were responsible for their
+deaths.
+
+Inside the corral everything, of course, had to be roped and thrown to
+be branded. It was rough and even dangerous work, and individual
+animals, again generally cows, would sometimes make desperate charges,
+and even assist an unfortunate "puncher" in scaling the walls. In after
+years we built proper corrals, and in the course of time, by frequent
+and regular handling, the cattle became more docile and better-mannered.
+For one thing, they were certainly easily gathered. When we wanted to
+round them up we had only to ride out ten or twenty miles, swing round
+and "holler," when all the cattle within sight or hearing would at once
+start on the run for the ranch. These were not yet domesticated cattle
+in that they always wanted to run and never to walk. Indeed, once
+started it was difficult to hold them back. This was not very conducive
+to the accumulation of tallow on their generally very bare bones.
+
+I well remember the first bunch of steers sold off the ranch, which were
+driven to Fort Wingate, to make beef for the soldiers. About two hundred
+head of steers, from six to twelve years of age, all black, brown,
+brindle or yellow, ne'er a red one amongst them; magnificently horned,
+in fair flesh, perfect health and spirits; such steers you could not
+"give away" to-day; but we got sixty dollars apiece for them and were
+well rid of them; and how they walked! The ponies could hardly keep up
+with them; and what cowman does not know the pleasure of driving fast
+walking beef cattle? Ne'er a "drag" amongst them! You had only to
+"point" them and let them "hit the trail"; but a stampede at night was
+all the more a terrific affair, though even in such a case if they got
+away they would keep together, and when you found one you found them
+all. Such a bunch of magnificent, wild, proud-looking steer creatures
+will never be seen again, in America at least, because you cannot get
+them now of such an age, nor of such primitive colours; colours that, I
+believe, the best-bred cattle would in course of long years and many
+generations' neglect revert to.
+
+The method adopted when an obstreperous steer made repeated attempts to
+leave the herd was to send a bullet through his horn, which gave him
+something to think about and shake his head over. No doubt it hurt him
+terribly, but it generally was an effective check to his waywardness.
+And when some old hoary-headed bull wanted to "gang his ain gait" a
+piece of cactus tossed on to his back, whence it was difficult to shake
+off, would give him also something to think about.
+
+Another small herd we some time later disposed of were equally good
+travellers, and indeed were driven from the ranch in one day to Camp
+Apache, another military post, a distance of over 40 miles. In this case
+the trail was through forest country where there was no "holding"
+ground, so they had to be pushed through.
+
+Our herd increased and throve fairly well for a number of years till
+other "outfits" began to throw cattle into the country, and sheepmen
+began to dispute our right to certain grazing lands. We did not quite
+realize it at the time, but it was the beginning of the end. We had gone
+into a practically virgin country, controlled an immense area, and the
+stock throve accordingly. But others were jealous of our success, threw
+in their cattle as already said, and their sheep, and ultimately we
+swamped one another. The grass was eaten down, over-grazed, droughts
+came, prices broke, and so the end. From 500 our annual calf brand
+mounted to 4000; halted there, and gradually dropped back to the
+original tally. Our cattle, from poverty, bogged in the river, or
+perished from hunger. This was all due to the barbarous grazing system
+under which we worked, the United States refusing to sell or lease land
+for grazing purposes; consequently, except at the end of a gun, one had
+no control over his range. Cattle versus sheep wars resulted, stealing
+became rampant and success impossible.
+
+Among other sales made was that of some 1500 steers, of all ages, which
+we drove right up to the heart of Colorado and disposed of at good
+prices. This drive was marked by a serious stampede, on a dark night in
+rough country, by which two of the boys got injured, though happily not
+seriously. Then another time we made an experimental shipment of 500 old
+steers to California, to be grazed and fattened on alfalfa. They were
+got through all right and put in an alfalfa field, and I remained in
+charge of them. Our cattle were not accustomed to wire fences, or being
+penned up in a small enclosure, and of course had never seen alfalfa; so
+for a week or more they did nothing but walk round the fence, trampling
+the belly-high lucerne to the ground. Gradually, however, they got to
+eating it, and in six weeks began to pick up. Briefly stated, this
+adventure was a financial failure. Like the cattle I had been myself an
+entire stranger to the wonderful alfalfa plant, and I never tired
+marvelling at its exuberance of growth and its capacity for supporting
+animal life. The heat in San Joachin Valley in high summer is almost
+overpowering, and vegetable growth under irrigation quite phenomenal.
+Alfalfa was cut some six or seven times in the season; each time a heavy
+crop. After taking cattle out of one pasture, then grazed bare, it was
+only three weeks till the plant was in full growth again, in full
+flower, two feet high and ready for the reception of more live stock.
+The variety of animal life subsisting on alfalfa was extraordinary. All
+kinds of domestic stock throve on it and liked it. In our field, besides
+cattle, were geese, ducks, turkeys, rabbits and hares in thousands,
+doves and quails in flocks, and gophers innumerable; frogs, toads, rats
+and mice; while bees, wasps, butterflies and moths, and myriads of
+other insects were simply pushing one another out of the way. It was a
+wonderful study.
+
+In Utah much difficulty was found in growing clover. This was accounted
+for by the fact that there were no old maids in that polygamous country.
+Old maids naturally were not allowed! And there being none, there were
+of course no cats to kill the mice that eat the bumble-bees' nests;
+thus, no bumble-bees to fertilize it, therefore no clover. Old maids
+have found their function.
+
+Figs could not be grown successfully in California till the Smyrna wasp
+had been imported to fertilize the flower.
+
+And while talking of bees: on the Mississippi River bee-keepers are in
+the habit of drifting their broods on rafts up the river, following the
+advance of spring and thus securing fresh fields and pastures new of the
+young spring blossoms; which is somewhat similar to the Chinaman's habit
+of carrying his ducks (he does love ducks), thousands of them, on rafts
+and boats up and down the broad Yangtse to wherever the richest grazing
+and grub-infested beds may be found.
+
+I should not forget to say that care must be used in putting cattle on
+alfalfa. At some seasons it is more dangerous than at others. A number
+of these steers "bloated," and I had to stick them with a knife promptly
+to save their lives. A new experience to me, but I soon "caught on."
+
+But something must be said about our little county town, San Juan,
+county seat of Apache County in which we were located. St Johns
+consisted of one general store, three or four saloons, a drug store, a
+newspaper office, court-house, jail, etc. A small settlement of Mormons,
+who confined themselves to farming on the narrow river bottom, and an
+equal number of Mexicans, an idle and mischievous riffraff, though one
+or two of them had considerable herds of sheep, and others were county
+officials. County affairs were dreadfully mismanaged and county funds
+misused. For our own protection we had to take part in politics, form an
+Opposition, and after a long struggle, in which my partners did noble
+service, we carried an election, put in our own officials, secured
+control of the county newspaper, and had things as we wanted them. But
+it was a bitter fight, and the old robber gang, who had run the county
+for years, were desperate in their resentment. Unfortunately, this
+resentment was basely and maliciously shown by an attempt, successful
+but happily not fatal, to poison one of my partners. He had a long and
+grim fight with death, but his indomitable will pulled him through. I
+myself, though I had little to do with politics, had a narrow escape
+from a somewhat similar fate. Living at that time, in winter, at what
+was called the Meadows Camp, I usually had a quarter of beef hung in the
+porch. Frost kept it sweet and sound for a long period, and every day it
+was my practice to cut off a steak for consumption. There were two cats,
+fortunately, and a slice was often thrown to them. One morning I first
+gave them their portion, then cut my own. In a few minutes the
+unfortunate animals were in the throes of strychnine poisoning and died
+in short order. It was a shock to me and a warning.
+
+The Mexicans continued for some time to be mean and threatening.
+Bush-whacking at night was attempted, and they even threatened an attack
+on our headquarters ranch; but we were a pretty strong outfit, had our
+own sheriff, and by-and-by a number of good friends.
+
+In our district rough country and timber prevented the cattle drifting
+very much. In winter they naturally sought the lower range; in summer
+they went to the mountains. Headquarters was about half-way between. It
+was finally arranged that I should take charge of the lower winter camp
+during winter and the mountain camp during summer. My partners mostly
+remained at headquarters. In summer time, from April to the end of
+October, this arrangement suited me very well indeed; in fact, it was
+made at my own suggestion; and the life, though a solitary one for long
+periods, suited me to the ground and I enjoyed it immensely. Practically
+I lived alone, which was also my own wish, as it was disagreeable to
+have anyone coming into my one-roomed cottage, turning things over and
+making a mess. I did my own cooking, becoming almost an expert, and have
+ever since continued to enjoy doing so. Of course I could have had one
+of the boys to live with me; but no matter what good fellows cowboys
+generally are, their being in very close companionship is not agreeable,
+some of their habits being beastly. Thus it came about that my life was
+a very solitary one, as it had been in India, and as it afterwards
+continued to be in New Mexico and Texas. Few visitors came to my camp in
+summer or winter. Now and then I was gladdened by a visit of one or
+other of my partners, one of whom, however, cared nothing for fishing or
+shooting, and the other was much of the time entirely absent from the
+country. During our short periodical round-ups of course I attended the
+"work" with the rest; but to spend one whole month, as I did once,
+without not only not conversing with, but absolutely not seeing a human
+being, is an experience that has probably come to very few men indeed.
+However, as said before, life in the White Mountains of Arizona was very
+enjoyable. Peaks ran up to 10,000 feet; and the elevation of my camp
+was about 8000 feet. Round about were extensive open parks and meadows,
+delightfully clear creeks and streams; grass a foot high, vast stretches
+of pine timber, deep and rocky ca�ons, etc., etc.
+
+When we first shoved our cattle up there the whole country was a virgin
+one, no settlements or houses, no roads of any kind, except one or two
+Indian hunting trails, no cattle, sheep or horses. There were, as
+already stated, elk, mountain sheep, antelope, deer, bears, panthers,
+porcupines, coons, any amount of wild turkey, spruce grouse, green
+pigeons, quail, etc., etc. There were virgin rivers of considerable
+size, swarming with trout, many of which it was my luck to first explore
+and cast a fly into. Most of this lovely country, as said before, was
+part of the Apache Indian Reservation, on which no one was allowed to
+trespass; but the boundary line was ill-defined and it was difficult to
+keep our cattle out of the forbidden territory. Indeed, we did not try
+to do so.
+
+The Indian settlement was at Fort Apache, some thirty miles from my
+camp. These people, having such an evil reputation, are worthy of a few
+more notes. Such tales of cruelty and savagery were told of them as to
+be almost incredible. They were the terror of Arizona and New Mexico,
+yet they were not entirely to blame. Government ill-treatment of
+Cochise, the great chief of the Chiricaua Apaches, had set the whole
+tribe on the war-path for ten years. A military company, called the
+Tombstone Toughs, was organized in Southern Arizona to wipe them out,
+but accomplished nothing. Finally, America's greatest Indian fighter,
+General Crook, was sent to campaign in Arizona in 1885. The celebrated
+chiefs, Geronimo and Natchez, broke out again and killed some
+twenty-nine white people in New Mexico and thirty-six in Arizona before
+Crook pushed them into the Sierra Madre Mountains in Sonora, where at
+last Geronimo surrendered. Victorio was an equally celebrated Apache
+war-chief and was out about the same time. Fortunately these last raids
+were always made on the south side of the Reservation. We were happily
+on the north side, and though we had frequent scares they never gave us
+serious trouble. So here were my duties and my pleasures.
+
+The saddle horses when not in use were in my care. The cattle also, of
+course, needed looking after. I was in the saddle all day. Frequently it
+would be my delight to take a pack-horse and go off for a week or two
+into the wildest parts of the Reservation, camp, and fish and shoot
+everything that came along, but the shooting was chiefly for the pot.
+Young wild turkeys are a delicacy unrivalled, and I became so expert in
+knowing their haunts that I could at any time go out and get a supply.
+One of my ponies was trained to turkey hunting. He seemed to take a
+delight in it. As soon as we sighted a flock, off he would go and take
+me up to shooting range, then stop and let me get two barrels in, and
+off again after them if more were needed. Turkeys run at a great rate
+and will not rise unless you press them.
+
+Big game shooting never appealed to me much. My last bear, through lack
+of cartridges to finish him, went off with a broken back, dragging
+himself some miles to where I found him again next morning. It so
+disgusted me as to put me off wishing to kill for killing's sake ever
+afterwards. A wounded deer or antelope, or a young motherless fawn, is a
+most pitiable sight.
+
+There was, and perhaps still is, no better bear country in America than
+the Blue River district on the border of Arizona and New Mexico. On
+these shooting and fishing trips I was nearly always alone, and many
+times experienced ridiculous scares. Camping perhaps in a deep ca�on, a
+rapid stream rushing by, the wind blowing through the tall pines, the
+horses tethered to tree stumps, a menagerie-like smell of bears
+frequently quite apparent, your bed on Mother Earth without tent or
+covering, if your sleep be not very sound you will conjure up all sorts
+of amazing things. Perhaps the horses take fright and run on their
+ropes.
+
+[Illustration: ROPING A GRIZZLY. (By C. M. Russell.)]
+
+You get up to soothe them and find them in a lather of sweat and scared
+to a tremble. What they saw, or, like men, imagined they saw or heard in
+the black darkness, you cannot tell. Still you are in an Indian country
+and perhaps thirty miles from anywhere. Many a night I swore I should
+pack up and go home at daylight, but when daylight came and all again
+seemed serene and beautiful--how beautiful!--all fear would be
+forgotten; I would cook my trout or fry the breast of a young turkey,
+and with hot fresh bread and bacon grease, and strong coffee.--Why,
+packing up was unthought of!
+
+One of my nearest neighbours was an old frontiers-man and Government
+scout. He had married an Apache squaw, been adopted into the tribe
+(White Mountain Apaches) and possessed some influence. He liked
+trout-fishing, so once or twice I accompanied him with his party, said
+party consisting of his wife and all her relatives--indeed most of the
+tribe. The young bucks scouted and cut "sign" for us (another branch of
+the Apaches being then on the war-path), the women washed clothes, did
+the cooking, cleaned and smoked the fish, etc. These Indians were
+rationed with beef by the Government, while they killed no doubt quite a
+number of our cattle, and even devoured eagerly any decomposed carcass
+found on the range; but they preferred the flesh of horses, mules and
+donkeys, detesting pork and fish.
+
+In these mountains in summer a serious pest was a green-headed fly,
+which worried the cattle so much that about noon hour they would all
+congregate in a very close herd out in the open places for
+self-protection. No difficulty then in rounding up; even antelope and
+deer would mix with them. When off on a fishing and hunting trip it was
+my custom to set fire to a dead tree trunk, in the smoke of which my
+horses would stand for hours at a time, even scorching their fetlocks.
+
+In these mountains, too, was a place generally called the "Boneyard,"
+its history being that some cattleman, stranger to the country, turned
+his herd loose there and tried to hold them during the winter. A heavy
+snowfall of several feet snowed the cattle in so that they could not be
+got out or anything be done with them. The whole herd was lost and next
+spring nothing but a field of bones was visible.
+
+At another time and place a lot of antelope were caught in deep snow and
+frozen to death. A more remarkable case was that of a bunch of horses
+which became snowed in, the snow being so deep they could not break a
+way out. The owner with great difficulty managed to rescue them, when it
+was found they had actually chawed each other's tails and manes off.
+
+Indian dogs have a great antipathy to white men, likewise our own dogs
+towards Indians, which our horses also share in. Horses also have a
+dread of bears. Once when riding a fine and high-strung horse a bear
+suddenly appeared in front. Knowing that my mount, as soon as he smelt
+the bear, would become uncontrollable, I quickly shot the bear from the
+saddle, and immediately the scared horse bolted.
+
+To preserve trout I sometimes kippered them and hung them up to dry.
+Quickly the wasps would attack them, and, if not prevented, would in a
+short space of time leave absolutely nothing but a skeleton hanging to
+the string. It was later demonstrated that cattle, too, thought them a
+delicacy, no doubt for the salt or sugar ingredients. Snakes also have a
+weakness for fish, and I have seen them approach my trout when thrown on
+the river bank and drag them off for their own consumption.
+
+While fishing or shooting one must always be on the careful lookout for
+rattlesnakes. In the rough ca�ons and river banks the biggest rattlers
+are found, and you may jump, tumble or scramble on the back of one and
+run great chance of being bitten. On the open prairie, where smaller
+rattlers are very plentiful, they always give you warning with their
+unique, unmistakable rattle. Once, on stooping down to tear up by the
+roots a dangerous poison weed, in grasping the plant my hand also
+grasped a rattlesnake. I dropped it quick enough to escape injury, but
+the cold sweat fairly broke out all over me. The bite is always painful,
+but not always necessarily fatal.
+
+"Rustlers" is the common name given to cattle or horse thieves. Arizona
+had her full share of them. That territory was the last resort of
+outlaws from other and more civilized states. Many of our own "hands"
+were such men. Few of them dare use their own proper names; having
+committed desperate crimes in other states, such as Texas, they could
+not return there. Strange to say, the worst of these "bad" men often
+made the best of ranch hands. Cowboys as a class, that is, the genuine
+cowboys of days gone by, were a splendid lot of fellows, smart,
+intelligent, self-reliant and resourceful, also hard and willing
+workers. If they liked you, they would stay with you in any kind of
+trouble and be thoroughly loyal. No such merry place on earth as the cow
+camp, where humour, wit and repartee abounded. The fact of every man
+being armed, and in these far-off days probably a deadly shot, tended to
+keep down rowdyism and quarrelling. If serious trouble did come up, it
+was settled then and there quickly and decisively, wrongly or rightly.
+Let me instance a case.
+
+In round-up camp one day a few hot words were suddenly heard, guns began
+to play, result--one man killed outright and two wounded. The case of
+one of the wounded boys was rather peculiar. His wound was in the thigh
+and amputation was necessary. Being a general favourite, we, myself and
+partners, took turns nursing him, dressing his wounds and cheering him
+up as well as we could. He rapidly recovered, put on flesh and was in
+high spirits, and, as the doctor said, quite out of danger; but one day
+this big strong young fellow took it into his foolish head that he was
+going to die. Nothing would persuade him to the contrary, and so die he
+did, and that without any waste of time. In preparing a body for burial
+it is the custom, a burial rite indeed, not to wrap the corpse in a
+shroud, but to dress it in a complete ordinary costume, a brand-new suit
+of black clothes, white shirt, socks, etc., etc.--whether boots or not I
+forget, but rather think so--dress him probably better than the poor
+fellow was ever dressed before, and in this manner he was laid in the
+ground. The man who started the shooting was named "Windy M'Gee,"
+already an outlaw, but then cook for our mess wagon. Shortly afterwards
+he killed a prominent lawyer in our little town, or at least we
+suspected him strongly, though another man suffered for the crime; but
+such incidents as these were too common to attract world-wide
+attention.
+
+On another occasion one of our men got shot in the thigh, by whom or how
+I do not now remember, but he was a different sort of man from the boy
+just mentioned. We knew him to be quite a brave, nervy man in action,
+having been in one of our fighting scrapes with rustlers; but as a
+patient he showed a most cowardly disposition, developing a ferocious
+temper, rejecting medical advice, cursing everybody who came around, so
+that he lay for months at our charge, until we really got to wish that
+he would carry out his threat of self-destruction. He did not, but he
+was crippled for life and did not leave a friend behind.
+
+[Illustration: A SHOOTING SCRAPE. (By C. M. Russell.)]
+
+Then, too, the cowboy, in matter of accoutrements, was a very splendid
+fellow indeed. His saddle was gaily decorated with masses of silver, in
+the shape of buttons, buckles and trimmings, etc. Likewise his bridle
+and bit; his spurs were works of loving art from the hands of the
+village metal-worker, and likewise heavily plated with silver. The
+rowels were huge but blunt-pointed, and had little metal bells attached.
+His boots cost him near a month's pay, always made to careful order,
+with enormously high and narrow heels, as high as any fashionable
+woman's; his feet were generally extremely small, because of his
+having lived in the saddle from early boyhood up. He wore a heavy
+woollen shirt, with a gorgeous and costly silk handkerchief tied loosely
+round his neck. His head-covering was a very large grey felt hat, a
+"genuine Stetson," which cost him from five to twenty dollars, never
+less. To keep the big hat in place a thong or cord is tied around and
+below the back of the head instead of under the chin, experience having
+proved it to be much more effective in that position. His six-shooter
+had plates of silver on the handle, and his scabbard was covered with
+silver buttons. It should be said that a saddle, such as we all used,
+cost from forty to sixty dollars, and weighed generally about forty
+pounds, not counting saddle blankets. Sometimes the saddle had only one
+"cinch" or girth, generally two, one of which reached well back under
+the flank. Such heavy saddles were necessary for heavy work, roping big
+cattle, etc. The stirrups were then generally made of wood, very big and
+broad in sole and very heavy, sometimes covered with tapaderos, huge
+leather caps to save the feet from thorns in heavy brush, and protect
+them from cold in severe weather.
+
+To protect our legs we wore over the trousers heavy leather chaparejos,
+sometimes of bear or buffalo hide. Let it be noted that a genuine
+cowpuncher never rolls his shirt sleeves up, as depicted in romancing
+novels. Indeed he either protects his wrists with leather wristlets, or
+wears long gauntlet gloves. Mounted on his favourite horse, his was a
+gay cavalier figure, and at the "Baillie" he felt himself to be
+irresistible to the shy and often very pretty Mexican se�oritas. There
+you have a pretty faithful picture of the cowboy of twenty-five years
+ago.
+
+It remains to say something of the "shooting irons." In the days of
+which I write there was no restriction to the bearing of arms. Every man
+carried a six-shooter. We, and most of our outfit, habitually carried a
+carbine or rifle as well as the smaller weapon. The carbine was carried
+in a scabbard, slung from the horn, under the stirrup flap, and so under
+the leg. This method kept the weapon steady and left both arms free. By
+raising the leg it was easily got at, and it interfered in no way with
+the use of the lariat (La Riata). The hang of the six-shooter required
+more particular consideration; when needed it would be needed _badly_,
+and therefore must be easily drawn, with no possible chance of a hitch.
+The butt of a revolver must point forwards and not backwards, as shown
+in the accompanying illustration, a portrait of one of our men as he
+habitually appeared at work. We ourselves did not go the length of
+wearing three belts of cartridges and two six-shooters; but two belts
+were needed, one for the rifle and the other for the smaller weapon.
+Some of the boys were always getting into scrapes and seemed to enjoy
+protracted fights with the Mexicans. There must be no flap to the
+scabbard, and the point must be tied by a leather thong around the thigh
+to keep it in correct position; and of course it was hung on the right
+side and low down on the hip, so as to be easily got at. Only when
+riding fast was a small loop and silver button passed through the
+trigger guard to prevent the gun from jolting out and being lost. The
+chambers were always kept full and the weapons themselves in perfect
+working order. Very "bad" men tied back or removed the trigger
+altogether, cocking and releasing the hammer with the thumb, or
+"fanning" it with the left hand. This permitted of very rapid firing, so
+that the "aar would be plumb full of lead."
+
+[Illustration: ONE OF OUR MEN. (To show the hand of six-shooter.)]
+
+As an instance of quick shooting, two of our neighbours had threatened
+to kill each other at sight: and we were all naturally interested in the
+results. When the meeting did take place, quite unpremeditated, no
+doubt, each man saw the other about the same instant, but one of them
+was just a little the quicker, and put a bullet through his enemy's
+heart. It was a mortal wound of course; but before the unlucky man fell
+he was also able to "get his work in," and both fell dead at the same
+instant. This was no duel. The first to fire had the advantage, but the
+"dead" man was too quick for him, and he did not escape. If I remember
+right, a good riddance.
+
+There was one other way of "packing a gun." It was called the Arizona
+way. Legal gentlemen, some gamblers, and others who for various reasons
+wished to appear unarmed, simply put the pistol in the coat side pocket,
+and in use fired from that position through the pocket. It was not often
+so used, but I have known cases of it. In this way it was difficult to
+know whether a man was "heeled" (armed) or not. Of course our usual
+weapon, the long Colt 45� six-shooter could not be so used, being too
+cumbrous.
+
+[Illustration: 1883 IN ARIZONA. AUTHOR AND PARTY.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+CACTUS RANCHING IN ARIZONA--_continued_
+
+     The Cowboy--Accoutrements and Weapons--Desert Plants--Politics and
+     Perjury--Mavericks--Mormons--Bog Riding.
+
+
+The "rustling" of cattle was very common in Arizona in these days. By
+"rustling" is not meant the petty burning out of a brand, or stealing of
+calves or odd beef cattle. It was carried on on the grand scale. Bands
+of rustlers operated together in large bodies. Between our range and the
+old Mexican border extended the Apache Reservation, a very large tract
+of exceedingly rough country, without roads of any description, the only
+signs of human presence being an occasional Indian trail and abandoned
+wickyups. Beyond the Reservation lay certain mining towns and camps,
+such as Clifton, Camp Thomas, Tombstone, and others; and then the
+Mexican frontier.
+
+The rustlers' business was to steal cattle, butcher them in the
+mountains, and sell the beef to the mining towns; or drive them over
+into Old Mexico for disposal, and then again drive Mexican cattle or
+horses back into Arizona. Some of these gangs were very powerful and
+terrorized the whole country, so much so that decent citizens were
+afraid "to give them away."
+
+Our cattle ranged well into the mountains, and up to a certain period we
+had no occasion to think that any "dirty" work was going on; but at last
+we "tumbled" to the fact that a gang was operating on our range. Word
+was brought us that a bunch of some 200 cattle had been "pulled"
+(Scotch, lifted). I was off the ranch at the time, but one of my
+partners at once started on the trail with three of the men. After some
+days very hard riding they caught up on the thieves at early dawn, in
+fact when still too dark to see very well. Shooting began at once. None
+of our men were hurt. Two of the enemy were badly wounded, but managed
+in the darkness to scramble off into the rocks, or were carried off by
+their companions. Our party captured their saddle horses and camp
+outfit, but did not feel themselves strong enough to continue the chase
+in such a country. The cattle were found close to the camp, but so
+footsore that it was impossible to move them homewards. They then
+returned to the ranch, and we at once organized a strong force of some
+seventeen men, well mounted and abundantly supplied with ammunition,
+etc. Again taking the trail we met the cattle on their way home, and
+gave them a push for a mile or so; and thinking them safe enough we
+prepared to continue south.
+
+On arriving at the scene of last week's fight we noticed that the big
+pine trees under which the rustlers camped had gun-rests notched in the
+sides of them, not newly made, but showing that they had been cut a long
+while ago, probably in anticipation of just what had happened.
+
+That day in camp, a horseman, the most innocent-looking of individuals,
+appeared, took dinner with us, and gave some plausible reason for his
+presence in that out-of-the-way place. It is strictly against cowboy
+etiquette to question a guest as to his personality, his movements or
+his occupation. We, however, felt very suspicious, especially as after
+he had gone we stumbled on to a coffee-pot and frying-pan, still warm,
+which had evidently been thrown into the bushes in great haste. In fact,
+this confirmed our suspicions that our visitor was one of the gang, and
+we thereafter stood careful guard round our horses every night. The
+cattle we decided to leave alone to take their chances of getting home,
+thinking the rustlers would not have the "gall", in face of our near
+presence, to again try to get off with them; but they did! These cattle
+never reached the ranch. Had they been left alone their wonderful homing
+instinct would certainly have got them there just as quick as they
+could travel. However, we did not realize the fact of the second raid
+till on our return no sign of these cattle could be found. So we
+continued south, passing through the roughest country I ever set eyes
+on, the vegetation in some places being of the most extraordinary
+nature, cacti of all kinds forming so thick a jungle that one could
+hardly dismount. Such enormous and freakish-looking growths of this
+class of plant few can have ever looked on before. The prickly pear
+"nopal" was the most common, and bore delicious, juicy and refreshing
+fruit. Indeed, being out of water and short of "chuck," we were glad to
+accept Nature's offering, but at a dreadful cost, for in a little while
+our mouths and tongues were a mass of tiny, almost invisible spines,
+which the most careful manipulation of the fruit could not prevent. But
+the most astonishing of these growths was the pitahaya (correct name
+saguarro), or gigantic columnar cactus, growing to a height of thirty to
+fifty feet, bearing the fruit on their crowns; a favourite fruit of the
+Pima Indians, though by what means they pluck it it would be interesting
+to know. Besides an infinite variety of others of the cactus family,
+there were yuccas, agaves and larreas; the fouquiera and koberlinia,
+long and thorny leafless rods; artemisias and the algarrobbas or
+mesquite bean-trees, another principal food of the Indians and valuable
+for cattle and horses. The yucca when in full bloom, its gigantic
+panicles bearing a profusion of large white bells, is one of Nature's
+most enchanting sights. Besides all these were massive biznagas, cholas,
+bear-grass or palmilla, and the mescal, supplying the principal
+vegetable food of the Apaches. Never in Texas, Arizona, or even Old
+Mexico, have I seen such a combination of varieties of such plants
+growing in such profusion and perfection; but being no botanist, and
+quite incompetent to give a proper appreciation of these wonders, we
+will return to the trail.
+
+At one place, hidden in a ca�on, we ran on to a stone-built and
+fortified butchering establishment, but without sign of life around.
+Continuing, we finally came to Clifton, the copper-mining town, then
+perhaps the "hardest" town in Arizona. The townspeople appeared pleased
+to see us. Martial law was prevailing, and they seemed to think we were
+a posse deputized to assist in restoring order. Anyway, the sheriff
+informed us that nearly thirty men had left the town that day for their
+camp, a fortified position some ten or fifteen miles away. They were all
+rustlers, and somehow or other had heard of our coming. Mr Sheriff was
+also kind enough to advise us that we were not nearly strong enough to
+tackle them; so adopting his advice, after securing supplies, we rode
+off, and by travelling all night and working round avoided the enemy's
+"position." Next day we unexpectedly ran on to a large bunch of our own
+cattle quietly grazing on the hillside. We rounded them up, but our
+brands were so completely burned out and effaced that, when we put them
+in the corral at Camp Thomas and claimed ownership, the sheriff refused
+to acknowledge it, and we had to draw his attention to a small jaw brand
+lately adopted by us but unnoticed by the thieves, and therefore not
+"monkeyed" with. This was proof enough, and so our long and tedious trip
+was to some extent compensated for. The particular rustlers we were
+after we could hear nothing of, except one man, who was lying wounded at
+a certain establishment, but who was carefully removed before we got to
+the place.
+
+On returning home there were only two possible passes through the
+mountains. It was lucky we took the one, as the other, we afterwards
+learned, had been put into a state of defence and manned by the outlaws,
+who in such a place could have shot us all down without danger to
+themselves.
+
+This short narrative will give some sort of idea of the state of the
+country at that period. Thereafter it became necessary that the cattle
+in the mountains should be more carefully guarded and looked after, and
+the duty fell to me to "cut sign." By "cutting sign" is meant, in this
+instance, the riding round and outside of all our cattle, pushing back
+any that had strayed too far, and carefully looking out for fresh sign
+(footprints) of cattle or horses leading beyond our range limits. Such
+sign was always suspicious, and the trail must be followed till the
+stock was found and accounted for. If horse tracks accompanied the
+cattle it would be a dead sure proof that something was wrong. I
+continued this work for a long time, but nothing suspicious occurred. At
+last, one day when searching the open country with my field-glasses, I
+was gratified and at the same time alarmed to see three or four men
+driving a considerable herd of cattle in the direction, and on exactly
+the same trail as before taken by the rustlers. Convinced that all was
+not right, and quite realizing that there was the prospect of serious
+trouble for myself, I lit out for them, keeping as well under cover as
+possible, till, on mounting a small tree-covered knoll, I found myself
+directly overlooking their camp. There were the cattle, from four to
+five hundred, and there the men, preparing their mid-day meal, four of
+them in all, and all strangers to me. It was necessary at all costs to
+know who they were, so I was obliged to disclose myself by going into
+their camp. The number of saddle horses they had with them led me to
+think that they were not real professional cattle thieves. Had they
+been indeed rustlers it would have been a risky thing to do, as they
+would have had to dispose of me in some way or other. By my horse brand
+they at once knew what "outfit" I belonged to. Their brands, however,
+were strange to me. They asked me to eat, of course; and I soon found
+out that their party was headed by one Pete----, whose reputation I had
+often heard of as being of the worst. He said he had been grazing these
+cattle in some outlying park, and was now taking them home to his
+ranches somewhere in New Mexico. That was all right; but since he had
+passed through part of our range it was necessary to inspect the herd.
+This he resisted by every means he could think of, asserting that they
+were a "clean" bunch, with no "strays," and that he was in a great hurry
+to push on. I insisted, however, on riding through them, when, not much
+to my surprise, I found about twenty large unbranded calves, apparently
+without their "mammies." On asking Pete for an explanation: "Oh," he
+said, "the mammies were shore in the herd" and he "warn't no cow thief,"
+but on my persisting he finally exclaimed, "Well, take your damned
+_caves_ and let's get on," or some such words; so I started in and cut
+out nearly twenty big unbranded calves, which certainly did not have
+their mothers with them; which, therefore, were clearly not his
+property; were probably ours, but whether they were or not did not
+matter to me. Pete and his men pulled out home, but I caught and branded
+over half of these calves before turning them loose, and it is probable
+we got the rest of them at the next round-up. When a man is
+single-handed and has to make his fire up as well as catch and tie down
+the calves he has his hands pretty full. In this case I used only one
+fire and so had to drag the calves up close to it; every bit of tie rope
+in my pocket, thongs cut off the saddle, even my pocket-handkerchief,
+were all brought into service; as at one time there were as many as four
+calves tied down at once. I had only the one little branding-iron, a
+thin bent iron rod, generally carried tied to the saddle alongside the
+carbine. The branding-iron must be, if not quite red-hot, very nearly
+so. Then the calf has to be ear-marked and altered.
+
+When the mothers are near by the bellowing of the young ones as the hot
+iron burns into the hide makes them wild with fear and anxiety, and the
+motherly instinct to charge is strained to the utmost, though they
+seldom dare to do it. The calves themselves, if big and stout enough,
+will often charge you on being released, and perhaps knock you over with
+a painfully hard punch.
+
+This was merely an adventure which lent some excitement and interest to
+the regular work. Happily no more serious raid on our cattle occurred
+in that direction, but one never knew when a little "pulling" might take
+place and so had to be constantly on the alert.
+
+About this time certain ill-disposed individuals tried "to get their
+work in on us" by asserting land frauds on our part. They tried every
+possible way to give us "dirt," that is, to put us to trouble and
+expense, and even send us to the pen if they could. They succeeded in
+having me indicted for perjury by the Grand Jury at Prescott, the then
+capital of Arizona. It cost us some money, but no incriminating evidence
+was forthcoming and the trial was a farce. The trial jury consisted of
+miners, cattlemen, saloon-keepers and others, and by mixing freely with
+them, standing drinks, etc., we managed to "correct" any bad feeling
+there might have been against us. Certainly these jurymen might have
+made trouble for me, but they did not. This notwithstanding that my
+friend, a special land agent sent out from Washington and principal
+witness against me, swore that I had assaulted him at a lonely place
+(and I well remember the occasion), and that he felt his life in such
+danger that he had to travel with a guard, etc. This came from politics.
+
+Having described summer life and occupations, and before going to winter
+camp, something must be said about our headquarters ranch, situated
+some twenty miles off. Here were the grain-house, the hay stacks, wagon
+sheds, corrals, the kitchen, general messroom, the bunk house and
+private rooms for ourselves. There was a constant succession of
+visitors. Nearly every day some stranger or neighbour "happened" in for
+a meal. Everyone was welcome, or at least got free board and lodging and
+horse feed. There being a paid cook made things different.
+
+But it was hot down here in summer-time, hot and dry and hardly
+attractive. The lower part of the range was much of it sandy country.
+With the temperature at 110� in the shade the sand would get so hot as
+to be almost painful to walk on, certainly disagreeable to sit on. And
+when one wanted to rest the only shade you could find would be in the
+shadow of your horse, which at noon meant your sitting right under him;
+and your saddle, on remounting, would be so hot as to be really very
+uncomfortable. Between round-ups there was not much work to do. Before
+round-up a general shoeing of the horses had to be gone through. I shod
+my own, except in cases of young ones undergoing the operation for the
+first time, when assistance was needed. Except poker every night we had
+few amusements. It was almost a daily programme, however, to get our
+carbines and six-shooters out and practise at targets, firing away box
+after box of ammunition. No wonder we were pretty expert shots, but
+indeed it needs much practice to become so.
+
+It should be said that amongst our visitors there were, no doubt, many
+angels whom we entertained unawares; but also, and no doubt of this,
+many blackguards and desperadoes, "toughs" and horse-thieves.
+
+An old English sailor, who had farmed a little in the mountains, was on
+one occasion left alone at our headquarters to take charge of it during
+our absence on the work. Two men came along and demanded something which
+the old man would not give and they deliberately shot him dead. We
+caught the miscreants, but could not convict them, their plea being
+self-defence. They really should have been hung without trial.
+
+Lynchings of cattle and horse thieves and other criminals were not then
+uncommon. I have twice come on corpses swinging in the wind, hung from
+trees or telegraph posts. But the most distressing sight witnessed was
+in Denver's fair city when a man, still alive, was dragged to death all
+through the streets by a rope round his neck, followed by a howling mob!
+
+By the way, a strange couple once surprised me at my mountain camp,
+viz., two individuals dressed much alike, both wearing the hair in a
+long pigtail, both dressed in leather "chaps," high-heeled boots,
+woollen shirts, big felt hats, rifles and six-shooters, and both as
+"hard"-looking as they ever make them. One was a man, the other a woman!
+They volunteered to me nothing of their business, but I watched the
+horses a little closer. And I may as well here give another little
+incident that occurred in my summer camp.
+
+A United States cavalry officer appeared one day at my door and demanded
+that I at once move the cattle off the Reservation. This was a sudden
+and rather big order. I told him that I was alone and could not possibly
+do it at once, or for several days. "Oh," he said, he "would help me,"
+he having some forty nigger troopers with him. "All right," I said, and
+took the men along with me, got back behind the cattle, spread these
+novel cowboys out and began to drive, when such a shouting and shooting
+of guns took place as never was heard before in these parts. We drove
+the cattle, really only a thousand head or so, back to the supposed
+Reservation border, quite unmarked and vague, and so left them, only to
+wander back again at their leisure to where they had been. The officer
+made all kinds of threats that he would turn the Indians loose on them,
+but nothing more was then done.
+
+At my winter camp, some thirty-five miles below headquarters, there was
+a good three-roomed frame house, a corral, etc., and the Little Colorado
+River flowed past near by. It was to these lower parts of the range that
+most of our cattle drifted in winter time. Two or three other large
+cattle-ranches marched with us there.
+
+A small Mormon settlement was not far off. These Mormons were a most
+venturesome people and daring settlers. Certainly they are the most
+successful colonists and a very happy people. Living in close community,
+having little or no money and very little live stock to tempt Providence
+(rustlers), theirs is a peaceable, though possibly dull, existence. They
+had frequent dances, but we Gentiles were not admitted to them.[1]
+
+[Footnote 1: _See_ Appendix, Note 1.]
+
+In winter one lives better than in the hot weather, table supplies being
+more varied. In summer, excepting during the round-ups, we never had
+butcher meat, and in my camp butter, eggs and milk were not known; but
+in winter I always had lots of good beef, potatoes, butter and some eggs
+from the Mormons, but still no milk. This was varied, too, by wild duck,
+teal and snipe shot along the river bottom.
+
+Talking of snipe, it is very wonderful how a wounded bird will carefully
+dress and apply down and feathers to the injury, and even apply splints
+and ligatures to a broken limb.
+
+My principal duties at this season consisted in riding the range on the
+lookout for unbranded calves, many calves always being missed on the
+round-up. This was really rather good sport. Such calves are generally
+big, strong, fat, and run like jack-rabbits, and it takes a fast and
+keen pony to catch them. Occasionally you would be lucky enough to find
+a maverick, a calf or a yearling so old as to have left its mother and
+be still running loose without a brand and therefore without an owner.
+It was particular satisfaction to get one's rope, and therefore one's
+brand, on to such a rover, though it might really not be the progeny of
+your own cattle at all. It was no easy job either for one man alone to
+catch and brand such a big and wild creature, especially if among the
+brush and cedar trees. A certain stimulant to your work was the fact
+that you were not the only one out on a maverick hunt. There were
+others, such as your neighbours, or even independent gentlemen, expert
+with the rope and branding-iron, who never bought a cow critter in their
+lives, but started their herds by thus stealing all the calves they
+could lay hands on. A small crooked iron rod, an iron ring, or even an
+old horseshoe, did duty as branding-iron on these occasions. The ring
+was favoured by the latter class of men, as it could be carried in the
+pocket and not excite suspicion. Of course we branded, marked and
+altered these calves wherever we found them. "Hair branding" was a
+method resorted to by dishonest cowboys; by burning the hair alone, and
+not the hide, they would apparently brand the calf with its rightful
+owner's brand; but later, when the calf had grown bigger and left its
+mother, they would slap on their own brand with comparative safety. One
+had to be constantly on the lookout for such tricks.
+
+The Mexicans, too, were fond of butchering a beef now and then, so they
+too required watching; but my busiest time came with early spring, when
+the cattle were in a poor and weak condition. The river-bed, too, was
+then in its boggiest state. Cattle went in to drink, stuck, and could
+not get out again, and thus some seasons we lost enormous numbers of
+them. Therefore I "rode bog" every day up and down the river. When I
+found an animal in the mud I had to rope it by the horns or feet and
+drag it by main force to solid ground. A stout, well-trained horse was
+needed. It was hard, dirty work and exasperating, as many of those you
+pulled out never got up again, and if they did would invariably charge
+you. No special tackle was used; you remain in the saddle, wrap the rope
+round the horn and dig the spurs in. Of course, on your own beat, you
+dragged out all you could, no matter of what brand; but when, as often
+happened, you failed to get them out, and they belonged to someone else,
+you were not allowed to shoot them; so that there the poor creatures lay
+for days, and perhaps even weeks, dying a lingering, but I am glad to
+think and believe not a painful, death. What an awful death for a
+reasoning, conscious man. Dumb animals, like cattle, happily seem to
+anticipate and hope for nothing one way or another. Once I found a mare
+in the river in such a position under a steep bank that nothing could be
+done for her. Her young colt was on the bank waiting and wondering. Very
+regretfully I had to leave them and carefully avoided passing that way
+for some days to come till the tragedy had terminated. The Little
+Colorado River, and afterwards the Pecos River in New Mexico, I have
+often seen so thick with dead and dying cattle that a man might walk up
+and down the river on the bodies of these unfortunate creatures. The
+stench would become horrible, till the spring flood came to sweep the
+carcasses to the sea or covered them up with deposit.
+
+Quicksand is much more holding than mere river mud. If only the tip of
+the tail or one single foot of the animal is covered by the stuff, then
+even two stout horses will not pull it out. The Pecos River is
+particularly dangerous on account of its quicksandy nature, and it was
+my custom, when having to cross the mess wagon, to send across the
+ramuda of two or three hundred saddle horses to tramp the river-bed
+solid beforehand. On one occasion when crossing quite a small stream my
+two driving ponies went down to their hocks, so that I had to cut the
+traces and belabour them hard to get them out. Had they not got out at
+once they never would have done so. My ambulance remained in the
+river-bed all night and till a Mexican with a bull-team luckily came
+along next day.
+
+At the Meadows, my winter camp, I had to fill a contract of two or three
+fat steers for the town butcher every week. With a man to help me we had
+to go far afield and scour the range to get suitable animals, the best
+and fattest beeves being always the furthest out. After corralling,
+which might mean a tremendous amount of hard galloping and repeated
+failures, the most difficult part of the job was the actual killing,
+which I accomplished by shooting them with a six-shooter, not a carbine.
+Only when a big steer has its head down to charge can you plant a bullet
+in exactly the right spot, a very small one, too, on the forehead, when
+he will drop like a stone. It was very pretty practice, but risky, as to
+get them to charge you must be afoot and inside the corral. The butcher
+was rather astonished when I first accomplished this trick, but it
+saved time and a lot of trouble. Such were my winter duties.
+
+Sometimes neighbours would look in, and the weekly mail and home papers
+helped to pass the time. I read a great deal, and so the solitariness of
+the position was not so trying as one might suppose. Indeed, books were
+more to me than the neighbours' society.
+
+"Incidents" occurred, of course, but I will only mention one. In winter
+I only kept up two saddle horses, picked ponies, favourites and almost
+friends. They were fed with grain night and morning, and, to save hay,
+were allowed to graze out at night. They regularly returned at early
+morning for their feed, so I never had to go after them. One morning,
+however, they did not appear. It was quite unaccountable to me and very
+awkward, as it left me afoot and unable to do anything. Not till about
+10 a.m. did they come galloping in, greatly excited, their tails in the
+air, puffing and snorting. It did not look quite right. Someone had been
+chasing them. At noon, while preparing early dinner, a man, a stranger,
+rode up to the house, and of course was invited to eat. He was very
+reticent, in fact would hardly speak at all, and gave no hint as to who
+he was or anything about himself. While eating there was suddenly a
+rapid succession of rifle-shots heard outside. We both rushed to the
+door and saw a man riding for life straight to the house, with half a
+dozen others shooting at him from horseback. He was not touched, only
+his horse being killed at the door. The new-comer and my strange guest
+at once showed that they were very intimate indeed, so that I quickly
+and easily put two and two together. The following party in the meantime
+had stopped and spread out, taking positions behind the low hills and
+completely commanding the house. Only their big hats showed and I could
+not make out whether they were Mexicans or white men. My two guests
+would tell me nothing, except to assert that they knew nothing of their
+followers, or why they began shooting. Realizing that these two had me
+at their mercy, that they could make me do chores for them, fetch water,
+cook, feed and attend to the horses till nightfall, when with my own two
+fresh mounts they might possibly make a bolt for it, I got a bit
+anxious, and determined to find out who the larger party were. So
+walking out and waving my hat I caught their attention and, on advancing
+further, one of the party came out and met me. They were neighbouring
+cattlemen, and explained that the two men in my house were rustlers, and
+they were determined to take them dead or alive. They asked me to join
+their party as they were going to "shoot up" the house if necessary. To
+this I would not consent and went back. After a deal of talk and
+persuasion the two men finally agreed to give me their guns, preliminary
+to meeting two of the other party, who were also asked to approach
+unarmed. They met, much to my relief, and when, somehow or other, the
+two men allowed themselves to be surrounded by the rest they saw the
+game was up and surrendered. Then the funny thing happened and the one
+reason for the telling of this story. They all came down to the house,
+had dinner together, chatted and cracked jokes, and not a word was said
+about the immediate trouble. They were all "punchers," had worked
+together, knew each other's affairs, etc., etc. The one party was about
+to send the other to the penitentiary, or perhaps the gallows; but you
+would have thought it was only a pleasant gathering of long-separated
+friends. The two rustlers were lodged in the county jail, quickly broke
+out, and soon afterwards died in their "boots," one at the hands of the
+sheriff.
+
+For tracking jail-breakers Indians, Navajoes or Apaches were sometimes
+employed, and the marvellous skill they showed was simply astonishing
+and inexplicable; all done by reading the "sign" left by the escaping
+party, but "sign" often quite unnoticeable to the white man. Indeed, an
+Indian would follow a trail by sign much as a hound will do by scent.
+
+Talking of scent, the homing instinct of horses and cattle is very
+wonderful and mysterious; but it is not generally known that a horse has
+also great power of scent. A horse will follow its mate (nearly all
+horses have their chums) many miles merely by sense of smell, as my long
+experience of them has amply proved to me. On one occasion I for some
+reason displaced the near horse of my driving team and hitched up
+another. After driving a distance of fifteen miles and returning
+homewards on the same road, soon in the distance could be seen said near
+horse busy with nose on the ground picking up the trail, and so absorbed
+in it that even when we got up quite close he did not notice us. When he
+did recognize his chum and companion his evident satisfaction was
+affecting.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+ODDS AND ENDS
+
+     Scent and Instinct--Mules--Roping Contests--Antelopes--The
+     Skunk--Garnets--Leave Arizona.
+
+
+This shall be a sketchy chapter of odds and ends, but more or less
+interesting according to the individual reader.
+
+The horse's intelligence is nothing compared to that of the mule, and as
+riding animal in rough country a mule should always be used. In Mexico,
+Central American States and the Andes mules are alone used; and what
+splendid, even handsome, reliable creatures they are on roads, or rather
+trails, such as it would be hazardous to take horses over. I once saw
+the unusual sight of two big strong mules (our ammunition pack animals)
+roll together down a very steep hillside. Happily neither mules nor
+loads were at all damaged, but it was a steepish hill, as on our
+returning and trying to climb it we had to dismount and hang on to the
+horses' tails. Another good point about mules is that they will not
+founder themselves. Put an open sack of grain before a hungry mule and
+he will eat what he wants, but never in excess, whereas a horse would
+gorge and founder himself at once.
+
+As said before, the homing instinct of horses and cattle is very
+remarkable. I have known horses "shipped" by a railway train in closed
+cars to a distance of over 400 miles, some of which on being turned
+loose found their way back to their old range. Cattle, too, may be
+driven a hundred or two hundred miles through the roughest country,
+without roads or trails of any kind, and even after being held there for
+several weeks will at once start home and take exactly the same route as
+that they were driven over, even though there be no "sign" of any kind
+to guide them and certainly no scent.
+
+On my shooting and fishing trips I rode one horse and packed another.
+The packed horse, on going out, had to be led, of course, unless indeed
+he was my saddle-horse's chum. But on going home, after even a couple of
+weeks' absence, I simply turned the pack-horse loose, hit him a lick
+with the rope, and off he would go with the utmost confidence as to the
+route, and follow the trail we had come out on, each time a different
+trail be it remembered, with ridiculous exactitude; yet there was no
+visible track or sign of any kind. Indeed, I would often find myself
+puzzled as to our whereabouts and feel quite confident we were at fault,
+when suddenly some familiar tree or landmark, noticed on going out,
+would be recognized.
+
+Parts of our Arizona range were covered with great beds of broken
+malpais rock, really black lava, hard as iron, with edges sharp and
+jagged. Over such ground we would gallop at full speed and with little
+hesitation, trusting absolutely to our locally-bred ponies to see us
+through. English horses could never have done it, and probably no
+old-country horseman would have taken the chances. We got bad falls now
+and then, but very seldom indeed considering conditions.
+
+The bits used then were murderous contrivances, being of the kind called
+spade or ring bits. By means of them a horse could be thrown on his
+haunches with slight effort, even his jaw may be broken. Luckily the bit
+is little used by the cowboy. His horse knows its painful character, and
+so obeys the slightest raising of the rider's hand. It should also be
+remarked that the cow-pony is guided, not by pulling either the right or
+left rein, but by the rider carrying his bridle hand over to the _left_
+if he wants to go to the left, and vice versa. There is no pulling on
+the mouth. The pony does not understand that; it is the slight pressure
+of the right rein on the _right_ side of the neck that turns him to the
+_left_.
+
+The reata in those days was nearly always made of plaited raw hide, and
+often made by the boys themselves, though a good reata required a long
+time to complete and peculiar skill in the making of it. Quirts
+(quadras) and horse hobbles were also made of raw hide.
+
+As everyone knows, the horn of the saddle is used in America to hold
+roped cattle with. In South America a ring fixed to the surcingle is
+used; while in Guatemala and Costa Rica the reata is tied to the end of
+the horse's tail!
+
+It is a very pretty sight to see a skilled roper (the best are often
+Mexicans) at work in a corral or in a herd; or better still, when after
+a wild steer on the prairie. But roping is hardly ever used nowadays,
+one reason of the "passing" of the old-time cowboy. We used to have
+great annual roping competitions in New Mexico and Texas, when handsome
+prizes were given to the men who would rope and tie down a big steer in
+quickest time. I once or twice went in myself to these competitions and
+was lucky enough to do fairly well, being mounted on a thoroughly
+trained roping horse; but it is a chancy affair, as often the best man
+may unluckily get a lazy sort of steer to operate on, and it is much
+more difficult to throw down such an animal than a wild, active,
+fast-galloping one; for this reason, that on getting the rope over his
+horns you must roll him over, or rather _flop_ him over, on to his
+back by a sudden and skilful action of your horse on the rope. If
+properly thrown, or flopped hard enough, the steer will lie dazed or
+stunned for about half a minute. During that short period, and only
+during that short period, you must slip off your horse, run up to the
+steer and quickly tie his front and hind feet together, so tightly and
+in such a way that he cannot get up. Then you throw up your hands or
+your hat, and your time is taken. While you are out of your saddle your
+horse will, if well trained, himself hold the steer down by carefully
+adjusting the strain on the rope which still connects the animal's horns
+with the horn on the saddle.
+
+[Illustration: WOUND UP. (Horse tangled in rope.) (By C. M. Russell.)]
+
+I may here tell a wonderful story of a "buck" nigger who sometimes
+attended these gatherings. He was himself a cowboy, and indeed worked in
+my neighbourhood and so I knew him well. He was a big, strong, husky
+negro, with a neck and shoulders like a bull's. You cannot hurt a nigger
+any way. Well, this man's unique performance was to ride after a steer,
+the bigger and wilder the better, and on getting up to him to jump off
+his horse, seize the steer by a horn and the muzzle, then stoop down and
+grip the animal's upper lip with his teeth, turn his hands loose, and so
+by means of his powerful jaws and neck alone throw down and topple the
+steer over. The negro took many chances, and often the huge steer would
+fall on him in such a way as would have broken the neck or ribs of any
+ordinary white man. In this case also the steer must be an active one
+and going at a good pace, otherwise he could not be thrown properly.
+
+Stock-whips were never allowed. Useful as they may be at times, still
+the men are liable to ill-treat the cattle, and we got on quite well
+without them. Dogs, too, of course, were never used and never allowed on
+the range. They so nearly resemble the wolf that their presence always
+disturbs the cattle.
+
+This deprivation of canine society, as it may be imagined, was keenly
+felt by us all, perhaps more especially by myself. Had I only then had
+the companionship of certain former doggy friends life would have been
+much better worth living. As a protection at night too, when out on long
+journeys across the country, during the hunting and fishing trips, or
+even at the permanent camps, the presence of a faithful watch-dog would
+probably have saved me from many a restless night.
+
+The Navajo Indian's method of hunting antelope was to strew cedar
+branches or other brush in the form of a very long wing to a corral,
+lying loose and flat on the ground. The antelope on being driven against
+it will never cross an obstruction of such a nature, though it only be
+a foot high, but will continue to run along it and so be finally driven
+into the corral.
+
+And antelope are such inquisitive animals! On the Staked Plains of New
+Mexico the Mexicans approach them by dressing themselves up in any
+ridiculous sort of fashion, so as least to resemble a human being. In
+this way they would not approach the antelope, but the antelope would
+approach them, curious to find out the nature of such an unusual
+monstrosity. Antelope, there, were still very plentiful, and even in my
+own little pasture there was a band of some 300 head. Only at certain
+times of the year did they bunch up together; at other times they,
+though still present, were hardly noticeable.
+
+I would like to make note of the curious misnaming of wild animals in
+North America. Thus, the antelope or pronghorn is not a true antelope,
+the buffalo is not a buffalo, the Rocky Mountain goat is not a goat, and
+the elk is not an elk. By the same token the well-known "American aloe,"
+or century plant, is not an aloe, but an agave.
+
+While in Arizona I used to carry in a saddle pocket a small sketch-book
+and pencil, and on finding one of the beautiful wild flowers the Rocky
+Mountains are so famous for, that is, a new kind, I would at once get
+down and take a sketch of it, with notes as to colour, etc. The boys
+were at first a bit surprised, and no doubt wondered how easily an
+apparent idiot could amuse himself. I was considerably surprised myself
+once when busy sketching on the banks of a brawling stream in the
+mountains. A sudden grunt as of a bear at my elbow nearly scared me into
+the river. On turning round, there was an armed Apache brave standing
+close behind me; but he was only one of a hunting party. What sentiment
+that grunt expressed I never learnt.
+
+It is remarkable how a range or tract of country that has been
+overstocked or over-grazed will rapidly produce an entirely new flora,
+of a class repugnant to the palate of cattle and horses. In this way our
+mountain range in particular, when in course of a very few years it
+became eaten out, quickly decked itself in a gorgeous robe of brilliant
+blossoms; weeds we called them, and weeds no doubt they were, as our
+cattle refused to touch them. Certain nutritious plants, natives of the
+soil, such as the mescal, quite common when we first entered the
+country, were so completely killed out by the cattle that later not a
+single plant of the kind could be found.
+
+Amongst the fauna of Arizona was, of course, the ubiquitous prairie dog;
+and as a corollary, so to speak, the little prairie owl (_Athene
+cunicularis_), which inhabits deserted dog burrows and is the same bird
+as occupies the Biscacha burrows in Argentina. Rattlesnakes, so common
+around dog-towns, enter the burrows to secure the young marmots. Another
+animal frequently seen was the chaparral-cock or road-runner, really the
+earth cuckoo (_Geococcyx Mexicanus_), called paisano or pheasant, or
+Correcamino, by the Mexicans. It is a curious creature, with a very long
+tail, and runs at a tremendous rate, seldom taking to flight. Report
+says that it will build round a sleeping rattlesnake an impervious ring
+of cactus spines. Its feathers are greatly valued by Indians as being
+"good medicine," and being as efficacious as the horseshoe is with us.
+
+A still more curious animal, not often seen, was the well-named Gila
+monster or Escorpion (_Heloderma suspectum_), the only existing animal
+that fills the description of the Basilisk or Cockatrice of medi�val
+times; not the _Basilicus Americanus_, which is an innocent herbivorous
+lizard. This Gila monster is a comparatively small, but very hideous
+creature, in appearance like a lizard, very sluggish in its movements,
+and rightly owning the worst of reputations. Horned toads, also hideous
+in appearance, and tarantulas (_Mygales_), very large centipedes and
+scorpions, were common, and lived on, or rather were killed because of
+their reputation, but they seldom did anyone harm.
+
+But the most highly appreciated, that is the most feared and detested,
+of wild creatures was the common skunk, found everywhere, mostly a night
+wanderer and a hibernator. He is a most fearless animal, having such
+abundant and well-reasoned confidence in his mounted battery, charged
+with such noxious gases as might well receive the attention of our
+projectile experts. The first time I ever saw one he came into my
+mountain hut. Knowing only that he was "varmint" I endeavoured to kill
+him quickly with a spade. Alas! the spade fell just a moment too late
+and henceforth that hut was uninhabitable for a month. The only way to
+get one out of the house is to pour buckets of cold water on it. That
+keeps the tail down (unlike a horse, which cannot kick when his tail is
+up); but when his tail goes up, then look out! The skunk is also more
+dreaded by the cowboy and the frontiers-man than the rattlesnake. It is
+their belief that a bite from this creature will always convey
+hydrophobia. Being a night prowler it frequents cow camps, and often
+crawls over the beds spread on the ground, and it certainly has a habit
+of biting any exposed part of the human body. When it does so, the
+bitten man at once starts off to Texas, where at certain places one can
+hire the use of a madstone. The madstone is popularly supposed to be an
+accretion found somewhere in the system of a white stag. It is of a
+porous nature, and if applied to a fresh wound will extract and absorb
+the poison serum. Texans swear that it "sticks" only if there be poison
+present--does not stick otherwise. A fanciful suggestion! And yet, no
+doubt, the skunk does sometimes convey hydrophobia through its bite. I
+have myself often had the pleasant experience of feeling and knowing
+that a skunk was crawling over my carefully-covered-up body. But enough
+of this very objectionable creature.
+
+In Texas some of the boys used to carry in their pockets a piece of
+"rattlesnake root," which when scraped and swallowed after a bite was
+held to be an antidote, though otherwise a virulent poison.
+
+In this placid land of ours, so free of pests, mosquitoes, fleas and
+leeches, we are also free of the true skunk; but we do have, as perhaps
+you are aware, a small creature armed and protected in much the same
+way. This is the bombardier-beetle, common in certain other countries,
+but also found in England, which if chased will discharge from its stern
+a puff of bluish-white smoke, accompanied by a slight detonation. It can
+fire many shots from its stern chasers. It is said that a highly
+volatile liquid is secreted by glands, which when it meets the air
+passes into vapour so suddenly as to produce the explosion.
+
+The Mexicans of the United States deserve more than a passing notice.
+Many of them have Indian blood and are called Greasers, but the majority
+are of fairly pure Spanish descent. Contact with the Americans has made
+them vicious and treacherous. They have been robbed of their lands,
+their cattle and their horses, bullied and ill-treated in every possible
+way. But even now many of them retain their character, almost universal
+amongst their compatriots in Old Mexico, for hospitality, unaffected
+kindness, good breeding and politeness. A Mexican village in autumn is
+picturesque with crimson "rastras" of Chile pepper hung on the walls of
+the adobe houses. To the Mexicans we owe, or rather through them to the
+Aztecs, the delightfully tasty and delicious enchiladas and tamales.
+
+Among native animals should not be forgotten the common jacket-rabbit
+(hare). She affords capital coursing, and someone has said runs faster
+than an ice boat, or a note maturing at a bank, so she must indeed be
+speedy. It is interesting to recall that puss in Shakespeare's time was
+_he_ and not _she_. Among our feathered friends the humming-bird was not
+uncommon. These lovely but so tiny little morsels are migrants. Indeed
+one of the family, and one of the tiniest and most beautiful, is known
+to summer in Alaska and winter in Central America; thus accomplishing a
+flight twice a year of over two thousand miles.
+
+An interesting little note too may be made of the fact that the garnets
+of Arizona are principally found on ant-heaps, being brought to the
+surface by the ants and thrown aside as obstructions only fit for the
+waste-basket. But they are very beautiful gems and are regularly
+collected by the Indians.
+
+There was little or no gold mining in our part of the territory; but
+there were current many tales of fabulously rich lost Claims, lost
+because of the miners having been massacred by the Indians or other
+causes. In likely places I have myself used the pan with the usual
+enthusiasm, but luckily never with much success.
+
+The practice of that very curious custom, the "couvade," seems to be
+still in force among some of the Arizona Indian tribes, among whom so
+many other mysterious rites and customs prevail.
+
+The loco-weed (yerba-loco) was common in our country and ruined many of
+our horses, but more about it hereafter.
+
+After ten years, a long period of this life in Arizona, an offer came to
+me which, my partners consenting, was gladly accepted, viz., to take
+charge of and operate certain cattle-ranches in New Mexico in the
+interests of a Scottish Land and Mortgage Company. Things had not been
+going well with us and the future held out no prospects of improvement.
+Also I had been loyal to my agreement not to take or seek any share in
+the management of affairs, and the natural desire came to me to assume
+the responsibility and position of a boss. But dear me! had I foreseen
+the nature of the work before me, and the troubles in store, my
+enthusiasm would not have been quite so great.
+
+[Illustration: WATERING A HERD.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+RANCHING IN NEW MEXICO
+
+     The Scottish Company--My Difficulties and Dangers--Mustang
+     Hunting--Round-up described--Shipping Cattle--Railroad
+     Accidents--Close out Scotch Company's Interests.
+
+
+Bidding good-bye to Arizona I travelled to Las Vegas, New Mexico, now
+quite an important place. Calling on Mr L----, the manager of the
+Mortgage Company, and the Company's lawyers, the position of affairs was
+thus stated to me. The Company had loaned a large sum of money to a
+cattleman named M----, who owned a large ranch with valuable
+water-claims and a very fine though small herd of cattle. M---- had paid
+no interest for several years and attempted to repudiate the loan, so
+the Company decided to foreclose and take possession. Well, that seemed
+all right; so after getting power of attorney papers, etc., from the
+Company, I started down to the ranch, some eighty miles and near Fort
+Sumner, and introduced myself to M----, who at once refused to turn over
+the property to me or to anyone else, and sent me back to Las Vegas in a
+somewhat puzzled state of mind. Recounting my experience to Mr L----
+and the lawyers, after a long confab they decided that I should go down
+again and _take_ possession. They refused me the services of a sheriff
+or a deputy to serve the papers and represent the law. No, I was to take
+possession in any way my wits might suggest; they merely proposing that
+everything I did I should put on paper and make affidavit to and send up
+to them. By this time I had learned that M---- was very much stirred up
+about it, was quite determined to give nothing up, and that really he
+was a dangerous man who, if pushed to extremities, might do something
+desperate. The lawyers told me there was another, a right, usual and
+legal way of taking possession, but for private reasons they did not
+wish to proceed in that way; and so I finally agreed to go down again
+and do what I could.
+
+Buying some horses and hiring a Mexican vaquero to show me the country,
+and especially to be a witness to whatever took place, we pulled out for
+Fort Sumner. The spring round-up was about to begin, and near by I found
+M----'s "outfit" wagon, "cavayad" of horses, his full force of "hands"
+and the foreman H----. After dining with them I pulled out my papers to
+show H---- who I was and told him I had come there to take possession of
+M----- 's saddle horses, the whole "ramuda" in fact of nearly a hundred
+head. Oh, no! he had no instructions to give them up; he did not know
+anything of the matter and he certainly would not let me touch them! I
+said I had come to carry out my orders and meant to do so; and mounting,
+rode out to gather up the grazing ponies. At once they came after me,
+not believing that anyone would dare do such a thing in their presence,
+and began to jostle me, with more evil intentions in their eyes.
+Desisting at once, and before they had gone too far, I told them that
+that was all I wanted, said good-bye in as friendly a way as possible,
+and went before a Justice of the Peace and made affidavit of having
+attempted to take possession of the horses till resisted by force, in
+fact, that physical violence had been used against me. This was sent to
+Las Vegas, and in due course the lawyers advised me that it was
+satisfactory and recommended me to adopt similar methods when attempting
+to get possession of the ranches, cattle, stock horses, etc.
+
+This was a funny position to be in! M----was a popular man; the other
+cattlemen would certainly side with him and resent such novel and
+apparently high-handed proceedings. Myself was an entire stranger in the
+whole of that huge country, devoted solely to cattle interests, and of
+course did not have a friend nor did expect to have any. In fact M----
+'s appellation of me as that "damned Scotsman" became disagreeably
+familiar. The round-up was then a long way off down the river, some 100
+miles, working up towards Fort Sumner; so I decided to visit the
+ranches. We rode out to one where was a house (unoccupied) and a spring,
+there stayed one night, and on departing left an old coffee-pot, some
+flour, etc., as proof of habitation and so gave myself the right to
+claim having taken possession. From there to the headquarters ranch was
+some thirty-five miles. On our route we came across a number of M----'s
+stock horses (he claimed about four to five hundred) and, taking the
+opportunity, we got together some 200 head, inspected them, and in this
+way, the only way open to me, claimed having taken possession. But now
+with fear and trembling we approached the ranch where M---- and his
+family, as I knew, were residing. A hundred yards from the house was the
+main spring of water, to which and at which we went and camped for
+dinner. Somehow or other M---- heard of our presence and out he came, a
+shot-gun in his hand, fury in his eyes, and his wife clinging to his
+coat-tails. No doubt he meant to shoot, but I was quite ready for him
+and put a bold face on it. Things looked nasty indeed and I was
+determined to fire should he once raise his gun. Perhaps this boldness
+made him think a bit, and I was very much relieved indeed when he
+resorted to expressive language instead of any more formidable
+demonstration. Though it was necessary to tell him that I was come to
+take possession of the ranch, he was not on to the affidavit game, and
+the result was that on returning to Fort Sumner I swore to having
+attempted to take possession but had been resisted by force. As
+explained before, such an affidavit was, in the eye of the law, a strong
+point in our contention of having taken possession. At least, so our
+legal advisers affirmed.
+
+From Fort Sumner I then started for the round-up, taking with me a white
+man, the Mexican having got scared and quit. Having bought more horses,
+enough to fully mount two men, we joined the work. Fortunately M----'s
+outfit had gone up the river with a large herd of cattle, and was during
+their absence represented by the foreman of another ranch. What I did
+was to get all the foremen together (there were some ten wagons on the
+work) and explain to them who I was, that I was there to work and handle
+the M---- cattle, that if they would help me I should be obliged, but
+they were to understand that they would be regarded as doing it for my
+Company. They only said they were going to help in the usual way to
+gather the cattle and brand the calves; that I could work or not as I
+liked; that, in fact, it was none of their business as to whose the
+cattle were. So after working on a bit an affidavit was sent in that I
+had "worked" the cattle and had _met no resistance_. But mine was an
+extremely disagreeable position.
+
+During this round-up I noticed that M----was carefully gathering all the
+steers and bulls of any age he could find. I notified my people and
+asked them to send the sheriff down to help me. Things were coming to a
+point as it were; it was evidently M----'s intention to drive the
+steers out of the territory, knowing that once over the Texas line we
+could no longer enjoin him. His whole force of men depended on this to
+get their wages out of these steers, as every one of them was at least
+three months in arrears, some of them six, twelve, and even eighteen
+months. Thus I knew they would make every effort to succeed in the drive
+and would be desperate men to interfere with. The last day of the
+round-up was over, and in the evening I was careful to note the
+direction taken by the herd.
+
+In the meantime L---- had sent me a restraining paper to serve and I was
+of course determined to do it; but late that night my relief was great
+to see the sheriff, a Mexican, drive into camp. Here was a proper
+representative of the law at last, though I do not think he himself
+liked the job overmuch, officers of his breed being habitually treated
+with contempt by the white men. We agreed to take up the trail early
+next morning, knowing that the distance to the line was forty miles
+straight across the Staked Plains, no fences, no roads or trails, and no
+water for thirty miles at least. So up and off before daybreak, he
+driving a smart pair of horses, I with only my saddle pony, at as quick
+a gait as a wheeled vehicle could move; drove till his team began to
+play out, when luckily we came upon a mustang-hunter's camp and were
+supplied with two fresh mounts. Pushing on we at last spied in the far
+distance what was unmistakably a herd of cattle. Experience told me that
+the cattle had been watered, a fact which was thankfully noted. Watered
+cattle cannot be driven except at a very slow walk, and the herd was
+still seven or eight miles from the Texas line. M----'s foreman had
+made a fatal mistake! Had he not watered them they might have escaped
+us. They must have thought they had hoodwinked me and were probably then
+rejoicing at their success. They had certainly made a noble effort,
+having travelled all night and on till noon next day at a speed I had
+not thought possible. (There were even bulls in the herd.) One can
+imagine the feelings of the party when they at last saw us two riding at
+top speed directly on their trail. Cuss words must have flown freely,
+and no doubt the more desperate ones talked resistance. I was really
+anxious myself as to what course they would decide on, M---- not being
+with them, and they thinking of nothing but the settlement of their
+wages. On coming up to them they looked about as "mad" as any men could
+be. But they decided rightly; and seeing the game was up, merely tried
+to get me to promise to pay their back wages. This I would not do, but
+said there was time enough to talk that over afterwards; that meantime
+the herd must be driven back to its proper range, and to this they
+finally agreed. Word was brought in that M---- was lying out on the
+prairie, prostrated by the sun, helped no doubt by his realizing that
+his little scheme had been defeated. We had him brought into camp, but I
+declined to see him and returned to Fort Sumner. Soon afterwards M----
+threw up the sponge, so to speak, and agreed to turn the property over
+to us. These M---- cattle, numbering only 2000, did not justify the
+running of a mess wagon and full outfit, so I made arrangements with a
+very strong neighbouring ranch company to run the cattle for us, only
+myself attending the round-ups to see that our interests were properly
+protected.
+
+Meantime the stock horses must be looked after. Fraudulently M---- had
+started new brands on the last two crops of colts, the pick of them
+going into his wife's brand; and her mares ranged with M----'s, now
+ours. The band ran apparently anywhere. They had the whole Staked Plains
+of New Mexico to wander over, there being then absolutely no fences for
+a distance of 200 miles. Some 200 head of the gentler stock ranged near
+home; the balance, claimed to number some 300 more, were mixed up with
+the mustangs and were practically wild creatures, some of them having
+never been rounded up for over two years.
+
+By this time some of M----'s old hands had come over to my side. They
+knew the country, knew how best to handle these horses, and by
+favourable promise I got them to undertake to help in discriminating as
+to which colts were the Company's property and which Mrs M----'s. So I
+put up an "outfit," wagon, cook, mounts for seven or eight men, etc.,
+and set out on a very big undertaking indeed, and one that M----himself
+had not successfully accomplished for several years--a clean round-up of
+all the stock horses in the country. These Staked Plains (Llanos
+Estacados) were so called because the first road or trail across them
+had to be staked out with poles at more or less long intervals to show
+direction, there being no visible landmarks in that immense level
+country. They are one continuous sweep of slightly undulating, almost
+level land, well grassed, almost without living water anywhere, but
+dotted all over with depressions in the ground, generally circular, some
+of great size, some deeper than others, which we called "dry lakes,"
+from the fact that for most of the year they were nearly all dry, only
+here and there, and at long distances apart, a few would hold sufficient
+muddy water to carry wild horses and antelope through the dry season.
+But which lakes held water and which not was only known to these wild
+mustang bands and our mares that ran with them. We took out with us some
+hundred of the gentler mares, the idea being to graze these round camp,
+and on getting round a bunch of the outlaws to drive them into this herd
+and so hold them. Nearly every bunch we found had mustangs amongst them.
+The mustang stallions we shot whenever possible. They were the cause of
+all our trouble. These stallions did not lead the bands, but fell
+behind, driving the mares in front and compelling them to gallop. When
+pressed, the stud would wheel round as if to challenge his pursuers. He
+presented a fine spectacle, his eyes blazing and his front feet pawing
+the ground. What a picture subject for an artist! The noble stallion,
+for he does look noble, no matter how physically poor a creature he may
+chance to be, wheeling round to challenge and threaten his pursuer, his
+mane and tail sweeping the ground, fury breathing from his nostrils and
+his eyes flashing fire! Is he not gaining time for his mares and progeny
+to get out of danger? A noble object and a gallant deed! Then was the
+time to shoot. But, yourself being all in a sweat and your horse
+excited, straight shooting was difficult to accomplish. We worked on a
+system; on finding a band, one man would do the running for six or eight
+miles, then another would relieve him, and so on, the idea being to get
+outside of them and so gradually round them in to the grazing herd. We
+had special horses kept and used for this purpose, fast and long-winded,
+as the pace had to be great and one must be utterly regardless of dog
+and badger holes, etc. This kind of work we kept up for a couple of
+weeks, some days being successful, some days getting a run but securing
+nothing. We made a satisfactory gathering of all the gentler and more
+tractable mares, but some of the wilder ones we could not hold. At night
+we stood guard over the band, and it was amusing, and even alarming, how
+the stallions would charge out and threaten any rider who approached too
+near his ladies. A good deal of fighting went on too between these very
+jealous gentlemen. As illustrating what the wild stallions are capable
+of, I may relate here how, one night when we had a small bunch of quite
+gentle mares and colts in a corral, a mustang stallion approached it,
+tore down the gate poles, took the mares out and forced them to his own
+range, some thirty miles away; and he must have driven them at a great
+pace, as when we followed next morning it was quite that distance before
+we saw any sign of them. The story is told of M---- himself who one dark
+night saw what he supposed was one of these depredators, shot it with
+his rifle, and found he had killed the only highly-bred stud he
+possessed.
+
+At last we started homewards, meaning to separate the properties of the
+two claimants; but M---- owned the only proper horse-separating corral
+in the whole country, and from obstinacy and cussedness would not let us
+use it. Here was a pretty go! To drive to any other corral would mean
+taking M----'s horses off their proper range and the law forbade us
+doing so, and he knew it. So we were compelled to do what I reckon had
+never been done or attempted before--separate the horses on the open
+prairie! First we cut out and pushed some half a mile away all mares and
+young unbranded colts to which the Company's title could not be
+disputed; also the stallions and geldings of like nature; then came the
+critical and difficult part of the operation--to cut out and separate
+mothers from their unbranded colts, and branded colts, some even one or
+two years old, from their mothers. And not only cut them out, but hold
+them separate for a full couple of hours! No one can know what this
+means but one who has tried it. I had done a fair amount of yearling
+steer-cutting; but hard as that work is, it is nothing compared with the
+separating of colts from their dams. The only way was to suddenly scare
+the colt out and race him as hard as you could go to the other bunch.
+But if by bad luck its mother gave a whinny, back the colt would come
+like a shot bullet, and nothing on earth could stop him. Fortunately I
+had kept a fresh horse in reserve, a very fine fast and active cutting
+pony. I rode him myself, and but for him we would never have
+accomplished what we did. When we got through our best horses were all
+played out. But it was absolutely necessary to move our own mare band to
+the nearest corral at Fort Sumner, a distance of thirty miles, which we
+did that evening. To night-herd them would have been impossible. The
+title to many of these colts, branded and unbranded, was very much mixed
+up, and indeed still in the Courts. Nevertheless I prepared next morning
+to brand them for the Company. The fire was ready, the irons nearly hot,
+when up drove M----in a furious rage. I do not think I ever saw a man
+look so angry and mean. He held a shot-gun in his hand and, presenting
+it at me, swore he would kill me if I dared to proceed any further. My
+foreman, who knew him well, warned me to be careful; there seemed no
+doubt that he meant what he said; he was too mad to dispute with, and
+so! well, his bluff, if it were a bluff, carried the day and I ordered
+the mares to be turned loose. As it turned out afterwards it was well I
+did so, as further legal complications would have resulted. But as I
+began to think of and remember the time that had been spent and the
+amount of hard work in collecting these horses, I felt rather ashamed of
+my action. And yet, can one be expected to practically throw his life
+away, not for a principle, but for a few head of young colts not even
+his own property? But, as said before, the disputed title influenced me
+to some extent; that, and the muzzle of the shot-gun together certainly
+did.
+
+A word about mustangs. They were very wary, cunning animals, keen of
+scent and sharp of eye. Invariably, when one first sighted them, they
+would be one or two miles away, going like the wind, their tails and
+manes flying behind them; and be it noted that when walking or standing
+these manes as well as tails swept the ground. Few of them were of any
+value when captured; many of them were so vicious and full of the devil
+generally that you could do nothing with them, and they never seemed to
+lose that character. Like the guanaco of South America, the wild
+stallion always dungs in one particular spot, near the watering-place,
+so that when hunting them we always looked out for and inspected these
+little hillocks. It may also be mentioned here that guanacos, like wild
+elephants and wild goats, have their dying ground, so to speak, where
+immense quantities of their bones are always found. Cattle when about to
+die select if possible a bush, tree or rocky place, perhaps for privacy,
+quietness, or some other reason unknown to us.
+
+The next and last time we rounded up the stock horses I left the wilder
+ones alone, and gave a contract to some professional mustangers to
+gather them at so much per head. These men never attempt to run them
+down. They "walk" them down. A light wagon, two mules to pull it, lots
+of grain, some water and supplies, are what you need. On sighting a band
+you simply walk your team after them, walk all day and day after day,
+never giving them a rest. Keep their attention occupied and they will
+neglect to feed or drink. Gradually they become accustomed to your
+nearer presence, and finally you can get up quite close and even drive
+them into your camp, where your companions are ready with snare ropes
+to secure them, or at least the particular ones you want to catch.
+
+Prince, a horse I used to ride when mustang hunting, once accidentally
+gave me a severe tumble. He was running at full speed when suddenly a
+foreleg found a deep badger hole; over he went of course, head over
+heels, and it is a miracle it did not break his leg off. These badger
+holes, especially abandoned ones, go right down to a great depth, and
+the grass grows over them so that they are hardly visible. Dog holes
+always have a surrounding pile of earth carefully patted firm and trod
+on, no doubt to prevent entrance of rain flood-water; thus they are
+nearly always noticeable. Dog towns are sometimes of great extent, one
+in my pasture being two miles long and about a mile wide. They are
+generally far from water, many miles indeed, often on the highest and
+driest parts of the plain and where the depth to water may be 500 feet
+or more. They must therefore depend entirely on the juices of the green
+grass, though in dry seasons they cannot even have that refreshment; and
+they never scrape for roots. But even the small bunnies (called
+cotton-tails) are found in like places and must subsist absolutely
+without water, as they do not, or dare not, on account of wolves, etc.,
+get far away from their holes.
+
+No sooner was the M---- trouble well over than my Company saw fit to
+foreclose on two other cattle outfits, one of which bowed to the law at
+once. The other gave us, or rather me, a lot of unnecessary trouble, and
+I had again "to take chances" of personal injury. All these cattle were
+thrown on to the M---- range, and this increased the herd so much as to
+justify the running of our own wagon and outfit.
+
+Eastern New Mexico, the country over which our cattle ranged, was a huge
+strip of territory some 250 miles by 100 miles, no fences, no settlers,
+occupied only by big cattle outfits owning from 8000 to 75,000 cattle
+each. The range was, however, much too heavily stocked, the rains
+irregular, severe droughts frequent, and the annual losses yearly
+becoming heavier; so heavy in fact that owners only waited a slight
+improvement in prices to sell out or drive their cattle out of the
+country. The way the cattle were worked was thus. The spring round-up
+began in March, far down the river, and slowly worked north to our
+range. Our wagon, one of many more, would join the work some 110 miles
+south of our range, but I sent individual men to much greater distances.
+The work continued slowly through the range, branding the spring calves,
+and each outfit separating its own cattle and driving its own herd.
+Twelve or more wagons meant some 300 riders and about 3000 saddle
+horses. So the operation was done on a grand scale; thousands of cattle
+were handled every day, and altogether such a big round-up was a very
+busy and interesting scene. Intricate and complicated work it was, too,
+though not perhaps apparent to an outsider; but under a good round-up
+boss, who was placed over the bosses of all the wagons, it was wonderful
+how smoothly the work went on. A general round-up took a long time and
+was no sooner over than another was begun at the far south border (the
+Mexico line) and the thing repeated. Our own cattle had got into the
+habit of drifting south whenever winter set in. It took us all summer to
+get them back again, and no sooner back than a cold sleet or rain would
+start them south. In fact, in winter few of our own cattle were at home,
+the cattle on our range being then mostly those drifted from the
+northern part of the territory. Such were the conditions in a "free
+range" country, and these conditions broke nearly all these big outfits,
+or at least compelled them to market their stuff for whatever it would
+bring. Partly on account of long-drawnout lawsuits we held on for seven
+or eight years, when on a recovery of prices our Company also closed out
+its live-stock interests.
+
+During the turning-over of these, the Company's cattle, to the
+purchasers, of course they had to be all branded, not with a recorded
+brand, but simply with a tally brand, thus /**, on the hip. Had there
+been a convenient separate pasture to put the tallied cattle into as
+they were tallied, much work would have been saved and no opportunity
+offered for fraud, such as will now be suggested and explained. The
+method adopted was to begin gathering at one end of the range, tally the
+herd collected, and then necessarily turn them loose. But we had bad
+stormy weather and these tallied cattle drifted and scattered all over
+the country and mixed up with those still not rounded up. This at once
+gave the opportunity for an evilly-inclined man to do just as was soon
+rumoured and reported to me. It was even positively asserted to me by
+certain cowmen (this was while I was confined in bed from an accident)
+that the buyer had a gang of men out operating on the far end of the
+range, catching and tally-branding for him the still untallied cattle. A
+simple operation enough, in such an immense district, where four men
+with their ropes could, in a few undisturbed days' work, cheat the
+Company out of enough cattle at $20 a head to be well worth some risk.
+Several men were positive in their assertions to me. But I knew these
+gentlemen pretty well--cattle-thieves themselves and utterly
+unprincipled; perhaps having a grudge against the said buyer, perhaps
+wanting merely to annoy me, and also possibly hating to see such a fine
+opportunity not taken advantage of. In the end, when brought to the
+scratch, not one of these informers would testify under oath. Whether
+afraid to, as they would undoubtedly have run strong chances of being
+killed, or whether they were just mischief-makers, as I myself have
+always believed, it is impossible to know accurately. The buyer, being a
+man of means and having many other interests in the district, would
+certainly hesitate long before he took such a very dangerous risk of
+discovery. All that can be said about it is that though I employed
+detectives for some time to try to get evidence bearing on the subject,
+no such evidence was ever obtained. The shortage in the turnover was due
+simply to the usual miscalculation of the herd; the herd which never
+before had been counted and could not, under range conditions, be
+counted.
+
+These were still "trailing" days, which means that steers sold or for
+sale were driven out of the country, not shipped by rail cars. One great
+trail passed right through our ranch (a great nuisance too), and by it
+herd after herd, each counting, maybe, 2500 cattle, was continually
+being trailed northwards, some going to Kansas or the Panhandle, most of
+them going as far north as Nebraska, Wyoming and Montana. These latter
+herds would be on the trail continuously for two or three months. Our
+own steers were always driven to the Panhandle of Texas, where, if not
+already contracted to buyers, they were held till sold.
+
+[Illustration: HERD ON TRAIL. SHOWING LEAD STEER.]
+
+A herd of breeding-stock when on the trail must be accompanied by one or
+more calf wagons, wagons with beds well boxed up, in which the youngest
+or new-born calves are carried, they being lifted out and turned over to
+their mother's care at night or during stoppages. In the old days, when
+such calves had no value, they were knocked on the head or carelessly
+and cruelly abandoned.
+
+It is a strange fact to note that when a herd is on the trail there is
+always a particular steer which, day after day and week after week,
+occupies a self-assigned position at the head of the herd, and is
+therefore called the "lead steer." I have often wondered what his
+thoughts might be, if any; why he so regularly placed himself at the
+head of affairs and was apparently so jealous of his commanding
+position. Yes, the lead steer is a mysterious creature, yet if displaced
+by death or some such cause, another long-legged, keen traveller will at
+once take his place. It should be explained that a herd on the trail
+travels naturally best in an extended form, two deep, seldom more than
+three or six, except towards the tail end, called the "drag": so that a
+herd of 2000 steers will form a much-attenuated line a mile in length
+from one end to the other.
+
+Which reminds me of an incident in this connection. I was moving a small
+lot of steers, some 400 head in all, to pasture in the Panhandle of
+Texas. The force consisted only of the wagon driver, one cowboy and
+myself. But the cowboy turned out to be quite ignorant of the art of
+driving cattle, did more harm than good, and so annoyed me that I
+dismissed him to the rear to ride in the wagon if he so chose, and
+myself alone undertook to drive, or rather not so much to drive, that
+being hardly necessary, as to guide the herd on its course. I got them
+strung out beautifully half a mile long, and they were making good time,
+when suddenly a confounded sheep herder and his dog met the lead steers
+and the procession was at once a scene of the most utter confusion. It
+should be explained here that, in the case of a small herd thus strung
+out, its guidance, if left to only one man, may be done from the rear by
+simply riding out sharply to one side or the other and calling to the
+lead cattle. How I did curse that wretch and his dog. A man on foot was
+bad enough; but a man on foot with a dog! Horrors! Yet, perhaps, barring
+the delay in getting the cattle started again, the incident had its
+uses, as it had just previously occurred to me that the line was getting
+a bit too long and might soon be out of control. Such are the uses of
+adversity.
+
+It can be understood that even a small herd of 400 lusty young steers
+can keep a man, or even two or three men, busy enough, especially if
+there are any cattle on the range you are passing through. In this case
+there were fortunately few.
+
+Amarillo, being the southern end of the Kansas railroad, was a great
+cattle market. Buyers and sellers met there; and there, immediately
+around the town, were congregated at any time in spring as many as
+40,000 cattle, all under herd. Amarillo was then the greatest cattle
+town in the world. She was the successor of such towns as Wichita and
+Fort Dodge, simply because she was at the western terminus of the
+railway. Though a pretty rowdy town her manners were an improvement on
+such places as Dodge, where in the height of her wickedness a gambling
+dispute, rivalry for the smile of a woman, or the slightest discourtesy,
+was sufficient ground for the shedding of blood.
+
+My life during these eight years had its pleasures and its troubles;
+certainly much discomfort and a lot of disagreeable work. During the
+working season, April to November, my time was mostly spent with the
+round-up or on the trail, with occasional visits to our head office in
+Las Vegas, and also to Amarillo on business matters. To cover these
+immense distances, near 300 miles (there were few or no desirable
+stopping-places), I used a light spring wagon or ambulance, holding my
+bedding, mess-box, grain for the team, some water, stake ropes, and a
+hundred other things. I nearly always camped out on the prairie, of
+course cooked my own meals, was out in all kinds of weather--sun, rain,
+heat and drought, blizzards and frightful lightning storms. My favourite
+team was a couple of grey ponies. From being so much together we got to
+understand each other pretty thoroughly, and we had our adventures as
+well. Once on going up a very steep hill the ponies lost their footing.
+The wagon backed and turned over, and ponies and wagon rolled over and
+over down the hill among the rocks till hung up on a cedar stump. I was
+not much hurt, but found the ponies half covered with stones and rocks
+that had rolled on to them, the wagon upside down and camping material
+scattered everywhere. Cutting the tugs and rolling the stones away the
+ponies jumped up miraculously little injured, and even the wagon still
+serviceable, but I had to walk a long way to get assistance. Then we
+have fallen through rotten bridges, stuck in rivers and quicksands, and
+all sorts of things.
+
+One pony of this team, "Punch," was really the hardiest, best-built,
+best-natured and most intelligent of any I have ever known. Many a
+time, on long trips, has the other pony played completely out and
+actually dropped on the road. But Punch seemed to be never tired. He was
+a great pet too, and could be fondled to your heart's content. He had no
+vice, yet was as full of mischief as he could possibly pack. His
+mischief, or rather playfulness, finally cost him his life, as he once
+got to teasing a bull, the bull charged, and that was his end.
+
+It was with this team too that when driving in New Mexico through a
+district where white men were seldom seen, but on a road which I had
+often selected as a shorter route to my destination, I came on a Mexican
+ill-treating his donkey. His actions were so deliberate as to rouse my
+ire, and I got down, took the club from him and threatened castigation.
+On proceeding on the road I passed another Mexican mounted on a horse
+and carrying a rifle. Happening by-and-by to look back much was my
+surprise, or perhaps not very much, to see the gun and horse handed over
+to the first man, and himself mounted and galloping after me. Knowing at
+once what it meant, that his game was to bushwhack me in the rough ca�on
+immediately in front, I put the whip to my team to such good purpose
+that we galloped through that ca�on as it had never been galloped
+through before. I would have had no show whatever in such a place, and
+so was extremely glad to find myself again in the open country.
+
+Another time I hitched up another team, one of which, a favourite
+mustang-chaser, had never been driven. We made some ten miles all right
+till we came to the "jumping-off" place of the plains, a very steep,
+long and winding descent. Just as we started down, Prince, the horse
+mentioned, got his tail over the lines, and the ball began. We went down
+that hill at racing speed, I having absolutely no control over the
+terrified animals, which did not stop for many miles. Again, with the
+same team I once started to Amarillo, being half a day ahead of the
+steer herd. First evening I camped out at a water-hole and staked out
+Prince with a long heavy rope and strong iron stake pin. The other horse
+was hobbled with a rope hobble. Some wolves came in to water, and I was
+lying on my bed looking at them when the horses suddenly stampeded, the
+strong stake rope and pin not even checking Prince. They were gone and I
+was afoot! Prince ran for forty miles to the ranch. The hobbled horse we
+never saw again for more than twelve months, but when found was fat and
+none the worse. Next day the trail outfit came along and so I hitched up
+another team.
+
+But the worst trouble I used to have was with a high-strung and almost
+intractable pair of horses, Pintos, or painted, which means piebald, a
+very handsome team indeed, whose former owner simply could not manage
+them. Every time we came to a gate through which we had to pass I, being
+alone, had to get down and throw the gate open. Then after taking the
+team through I had of course to go back to shut the gate again. Then was
+the opportunity apparently always watched for by these devils, and had I
+not tied a long rope to the lines and trailed it behind the wagon they
+would many times have succeeded in getting away.
+
+Yet it is only such a team that one can really care to drive for
+pleasure; a team that you "feel" all the time, one that will keep you
+"interested" every minute, as these Pintos did. How often nowadays does
+one ever see a carriage pair, or fours in the park or elsewhere that
+really needs "driving"?
+
+"Shipping" cattle means loading them into railroad cars and despatching
+them to their destination. The cattle are first penned in a corral and
+then run through chutes into the cars. One year I sold the Company's
+steers, a train-load, to a Jew dealer in Kansas. They were loaded in the
+Panhandle and I went through with them, having a man to help me to look
+after them, our duty being to prod them up when any were found lying
+down so they would not be trodden to death. At a certain point our
+engine "played out" and was obliged to leave us to get coal and water.
+While gone the snow (a furious blizzard was blowing) blew over the track
+and blocked it so effectively that the engine could not get back. The
+temperature was about zero and the cattle suffered terribly; but there
+we remained stuck for nearly two days. When we finally got through, of
+course the buyer refused to receive them, and I turned them over to the
+railway company and brought suit for their value. The case was thrice
+tried and we won each time; and oh, how some of these railroad men did
+damn themselves by perjury! But it is bad business to "buck" against a
+powerful railway corporation. This will serve to give an idea as to what
+shipping cattle means. Many hundreds of thousands, or even millions, are
+now shipped every year. Trail work is abandoned, being no longer
+possible on account of fences, etc. Such great towns as Chicago and
+Kansas City will each receive and dispose of in one day as many as ten
+to twenty thousand cattle, not counting sheep or hogs.
+
+It was when returning to Amarillo after this trip that I was fortunate
+enough to save the lives of a whole train-load of people. One night our
+passenger train came to a certain station, and the conductor went to get
+his orders. Nearly all the passengers were asleep. When he returned I
+happened to hear him read his orders over to the brakeman. These orders
+were to go on to a certain switch and "side track" till _three_ cattle
+trains had passed. At that point there was a very heavy grade and cattle
+trains came down it at sixty miles an hour. Two trains swung past us,
+and to my surprise the conductor then gave the signal to go ahead. We
+did start, when I at once ventured to remark to him that only two trains
+had so far gone by. He pooh-poohed my assertion; but after a few minutes
+began to think that he himself might just possibly be wrong. Meantime I
+got out on the platform and was ready to jump. The conductor most
+fortunately reversed the order, and the train was backed on to the
+siding again, none too soon, for just then the head-light of the third
+cattle train appeared round a curve and came tearing past us. It was a
+desperately narrow escape and I did not sleep again that night. Writing
+afterwards to the general manager of the railway company about it my
+letter was not even acknowledged, and of course no thanks were received.
+
+While on the subject of railroad accidents it has been my misfortune to
+have been in many of them, caused by collisions, spreading of rails,
+open switches, etc., etc., but I will only detail one or two. Once when
+travelling to Amarillo from a Convention at Fort Worth the train was
+very crowded and I occupied an upper berth in the Pullman. As American
+trains are always doing, trying to make up lost time, we were going at a
+pretty good lick when I felt the coach begin to sway. It swayed twice
+and then turned completely over and rolled down a high embankment.
+Outside was pitch dark and raining. There was a babel of yells and
+screams and callings for help. I had practically no clothes on, no
+shoes, and of course could find nothing. Everything inside, mattresses,
+bedding, curtains, baggage, clothing, babies, women and men were mixed
+up in an extraordinary way. Above me I noticed a broken window, through
+which I managed to scramble, and on finding out how things were returned
+to the coach to help other passengers. Underneath me seemed to be a
+dying man. He was in a dreadful condition and at his last gasp, etc.,
+and he made more row than the rest put together. Reaching down and
+removing mattresses, he grasped my hand, jumped up and thanked me
+profusely for _saving_ his life. He was not hurt a bit, indeed was the
+only man in the lot who escaped serious injury. The men behaved much
+worse than the women. However we soon had everybody out and the injured
+laid on blankets. Meantime a relief train had arrived with the doctor,
+etc. He examined us all, asked me if I was all right, to which I replied
+that I was, as I really felt so at the time. But in half an hour I was
+myself lying on a stretcher and unable to move, with a sprained back and
+bruised side, etc., and a claim for damages against the railway company.
+
+Another time, when riding in the caboose (the rear car) of a long
+freight train, with the conductor and brakeman, the train in going down
+a grade broke in three. The engine and a few cars went right on and left
+us; the centre part rushed down the hill, our section followed and
+crashed into it, and some seven or eight cars were completely
+telescoped. I had been seated beside the stove, my arm stretched round
+it, when, noticing our great speed, I drew the conductor's attention to
+it. He opened the side door to look out. Just then the shock came and he
+got a frightful lick on the side of the head, and myself was thrown on
+top of the hot stove; but none of us were seriously hurt.
+
+Again, once when making a trip to Kansas City and back, the whole
+Pullman train went off the track and down the embankment; and on the
+return journey we ran into an open switch and were derailed and one man
+killed. Both might have been very serious affairs.
+
+With the closing out of the Mortgage Company's interests of course my
+salaried employment came to an end. But before closing this chapter it
+should be mentioned that I had in the meantime suffered a nasty accident
+by a pony falling back on me and fracturing one leg. It occurred at the
+round-up, and I was driven some thirty miles, the leg not even splinted
+or put in a box, to my ranch. I sent off a mounted man to Las Vegas, 130
+miles, for a surgeon, but it was a week before he got down to me and the
+leg was then in a pretty bad shape. He hinted at removing it, but
+finally decided to set it and put it in plaster, which he did. He then
+left me. The leg gave me little trouble, but unfortunately peritonitis
+set in. The agony then suffered will not soon be forgotten. There was a
+particularly ignorant woman, my foreman's wife, in the house; but I had
+practically no nursing, no medicine of any kind, and the diet was hardly
+suited for a patient. The pain became so great that I was not able to
+open my mouth, dared not move a muscle, and was reduced to a mere
+skeleton. Then it occurred to my "guardians" to send once more for the
+doctor. Another week went by, and when he came I had just succeeded in
+passing the critical stage and was on the mend. In after years this
+attack led to serious complications and a most interesting operation,
+which left me, in my doctor's words, "practically without a stomach";
+and without a stomach I have jogged on comfortably for nearly ten years.
+How a little thing may lead to serious consequences! I had previously,
+and have since, had more or less serious physical troubles, but a good
+sound constitution has always pulled me through safely. Among minor
+injuries may be mentioned a broken rib, a knee-cap damaged at polo, and
+another slightly-fractured leg, caused again by a pony just purchased,
+and being tried, falling back on me; not to mention the _sigillum
+diavoli_ (don't be alarmed or shocked) which occasionally develops, and
+always at the same spot.
+
+While the round-up and turnover of the Company's cattle was proceeding,
+I thought it well to keep lots of whisky on hand to show hospitality
+(the only way) to whomsoever it was due. On receiving a large keg of it
+I put it in my buggy and drove out of camp seven or eight miles to some
+rough ground, and having, in Baden-Powell way, made myself sure no one
+was in view and no one spying on my movements I placed it amongst some
+rocks and brush in such a way that no ordinary wanderer could possibly
+see it. From this store it was my intention to fill a bottle every other
+day and so always have a stock on hand. But Kronje or De Wett was too
+"slim" for me; a few days afterwards on my going there, like a thief in
+the night--and indeed it was at night--I found the keg gone. Someone
+must have loaded up on it, someone who had deliberately watched me, and
+his joy can be easily pictured. So someone was greatly comforted, but
+not a hint ever came to me as to who the culprit was.
+
+My intercourse with M---- provided some of the closest "calls" I ever
+had (a call means a position of danger); still not so close as on a
+certain occasion, at my summer camp in Arizona, when one of the men and
+myself were playing cards together. We were alone. The man was our best
+"hand," and a capital fellow, though a fugitive from justice, like some
+of the others. It became apparent to me that he was cheating, and I was
+rash enough to let him understand that I knew it, without however
+absolutely accusing him of it. At once he pulled out his gun, leant
+over, and pointed it at me. What can one do in such a case? He had the
+"drop" on me; and demanded that I should take back what I had said.
+Well, I wriggled out of it somehow, told him he was very foolish to make
+such a "break" as that, and talked to him till he cooled down. It was an
+anxious few minutes, and I am very proud to think he did not "phase" me
+very much, as he afterwards admitted. Peace was secured with honour.
+
+I was lucky to be able to leave the West and the cattle business with a
+hide free from perforations and punctures of any kind.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+ODDS AND ENDS
+
+     Summer Round-up Notes--Night Guarding--Stampedes--Bronco
+     Busting--Cattle Branding, etc.
+
+
+Round-up and trail work had many agreeable aspects, and though it was at
+times very hard work, still I look back to it all with fond memories.
+The hours were long--breakfast was already cooked and "chuck" called
+long before sunrise; horses were changed, the night horses turned loose
+and a fresh mount for the morning's work caught out of the ramuda. By
+the time breakfast was over it was generally just light enough to see
+dimly the features of the country. The boss then gave his orders to the
+riders as to where to go and what country to round-up, also the round-up
+place at noon. He started the day-herd off grazing towards the same
+place, and finally saw the wagon with its four mules loaded up and
+despatched. There was generally a "circus" every morning on the men
+starting out to their work. On a cold morning a cow-horse does not like
+to be very tightly cinched or girthed up. He resents it by at once
+beginning to buck furiously as soon as his rider gets into his saddle.
+
+[Illustration: CHANGING HORSES.]
+
+Even staid old horses will do it on a very cold morning. But the "young
+uns," the broncos, are then perfect fiends. Thus there is nearly always
+some sport to begin the day with. By noon the round-up has been
+completed and a large herd of cattle collected. Separating begins at
+once, first cows and calves, then steers and "dry" cattle, the property
+of the different owners represented. Dinner is ready by twelve, horses
+changed again and the day-herd is watered, and then the branding of the
+calves begins. But wait. _Such_ a dinner! With few appliances it is
+really wonderful how a mess-wagon cook feeds the crowd so well. His fuel
+is "chips" (_bois des vaches_); with a spade he excavates a sunken
+fireplace, and over this erects an iron rod on which to hang pots, etc.
+He will make the loveliest fresh bread and rolls at least once a day,
+often twice; make most excellent coffee (and what a huge coffee-pot is
+needed for twenty or thirty thirsty cowpunchers), serve potatoes, stewed
+or fried meat, baked beans and stewed dried fruit, etc. Everything was
+good, so cleanly served and served so quickly. True, any kind of a mess
+tastes well to the hungry man, but I think that even a dyspeptic's
+appetite would become keen when he approached the cattleman's chuck
+wagon. Dinner over the wagon is again loaded up, the twenty or more beds
+thrown in, the team hitched and started for the night camping-ground,
+some place where there is lots of good grass for the cattle and saddle
+horses, and at the same time far enough away from all the other herds.
+The saddle horses in charge of the horse "wrangler" accompany the wagon.
+The men are either grazing and drifting the day-herd towards the camp,
+or branding morning calves, not in a corral but on the open prairie. The
+calves, and probably some grown cattle to be branded, must be caught
+with the rope, and here is where the roper's skill is shown to most
+advantage. At sundown all the men have got together again, night horses
+are selected, supper disposed of, beds prepared and a quiet smoke
+enjoyed.
+
+If a horse-hair rope be laid on the ground around one's bed no snake
+will ever cross it. But during work the beds are seldom made down till
+after sunset, by which time rattlesnakes have all retired into holes or
+amongst brush, and so there is little danger from them.
+
+First "guard" goes out to take charge of the herd. The herd has already
+been "bedded" down carefully at convenient distance from the wagon.
+Bedding down means bunching them together very closely, just leaving
+them enough room to lie down comfortably. They, if they have been well
+grazed and watered, will soon all be lying resting, chewing their cuds
+and at peace with the world. Each night-guard consists of two to four
+men according to the size of the herd, and "stands" two to four hours.
+The horse herd is also guarded by "reliefs." In fine weather it is no
+great hardship to be called out at any hour of the night, but if it
+should be late in autumn and snow falling, or, what is worse still, if
+there be a cold rain and a bitter wind it is very trying to be compelled
+to leave your warm bed at twelve or three in the morning, get on to your
+poor shivering horse and stand guard for three hours.
+
+It should be explained that "standing" means not absolute inaction but
+slowly riding round and round the herd. Yes, it is trying, especially in
+bad weather and after working hard all day long from before sun-up. How
+well one gets to know the stars and their positions! The poor
+night-herders know that a certain star will set or be in such and such a
+position at the time for the next relief. Often when dead tired, sleepy
+and cold, how eagerly have I watched my own star's apparently very slow
+movement. The standard watch is at the wagon, and must not be "monkeyed"
+with, a trick sometimes played on tenderfeet. Immediately time for
+relief is up the next is called, and woe betide them if they delay
+complying with the summons. Of course the owner or manager does not
+have to take part in night-herding, but the boys think more of him if he
+does, and certainly the man he relieves appreciates it.
+
+In continued wet and cold weather such as we were liable to have late in
+October or November, when it might rain and drizzle for a week or two at
+a time, our beds would get very wet and there would be no sun to dry
+them.
+
+Consequently we practically slept in wet, not damp, blankets for days at
+a time; and to return from your guard about two in the morning and get
+into such an uninviting couch was trying to one's temper, of course.
+Even one's "goose haar piller," as the boys called their feather pillow,
+might be sodden. To make your bed in snow or be snowed over is not
+nearly so bad.
+
+No tents were ever seen on the round-up. Everyone slept on the open bare
+ground. But for use during my long drives across country I got to using
+a small Sibley tent, nine feet by nine feet, which had a canvas floor
+attached to the walls, and could be closed up at night so as to
+effectually prevent the entrance of skunks and other vermin. This tent
+had no centre pole whatever. You simply drove in the four corner
+stake-pins, raised the two light rods over it triangularwise, and by a
+pulley and rope hoist up the peak. The two rods were very thin, light
+and jointed; and in taking the tent down you simply loosed the rope,
+knocked out the stake-pins, and that was all.
+
+During these long guarding spells you practically just sit in your
+saddle for four hours at a stretch. You cannot take exercise and you
+dare not get down to walk or you will stampede the cattle. But, yes, you
+may gallop to camp if you know the direction, and drink a cup of hot
+strong coffee, which in bad weather is kept on the fire all night,
+re-light your pipe and return to "sing" to the cattle.
+
+Then the quiet of these huge animals is impressive. About midnight they
+will get a bit restless, many will get on their feet, have a stretch and
+a yawn, puff, cough and blow and in other ways relieve themselves, and
+if allowed will start out grazing; but they are easily driven back and
+will soon be once more resting quietly.
+
+The stampeding of the herd on such a night is almost a relief. It at
+once effectually wakes you up, gets you warm, and keeps you interested
+for the rest of your spell, even if it does not keep you out for the
+rest of the night.
+
+I should explain that "singing" to the cattle refers to the habit
+cowboys have, while on night-guard, of singing (generally a sing-song
+refrain) as they slowly ride round the herd. It relieves the monotony,
+keeps the cattle quiet and seems to give them confidence, for they
+certainly appear to rest quieter while they know that men are guarding
+them, and are not so liable to stampede.
+
+Stampeding is indeed a very remarkable bovine characteristic. Suppose a
+herd of cattle, say 2000 steers, to be quietly and peacefully lying down
+under night-guard. The air is calm and clear. It may be bright
+moonlight, or it may be quite dark; nothing else is moving. Apparently
+there is nothing whatever to frighten them or even disturb them; most of
+them are probably sound asleep, when suddenly like a shot they, the
+whole herd, are on their feet and gone--gone off at a more or less
+furious gallop. All go together. The guard are of course at once all
+action; the men asleep in camp are waked by the loud drumming of the
+thousands of hoofs on the hard ground and at once rush for their horses
+to assist. The stampede must be stopped and there is only one way to do
+it--to get up to the lead animals and try to swing them round with the
+object of getting them to move in a circle, to "mill" as we called it.
+But the poor beasts meantime are frantic with fear and excitement and
+you must ride hard at your level best, and look out you don't get
+knocked over and perhaps fatally trampled on. You must know your
+business and work on one plan with your fellow-herders. On a pitch dark
+night in a rough country it is very dangerous indeed. The cattle may
+run only a short distance or they may run ten miles, and after being
+quieted again may once more stampede. Indeed, I took a herd once to
+Amarillo and they stampeded the first night on the trail and kept it up
+pretty near every night during the drive. But, as said before, the
+remarkable part of the performance is the instantaneous nature of the
+shock or whatever it is that goes through the slumbering herd, and the
+quickness of their getting off the bed-ground. Cow and calf herds are
+not so liable to stampede, but horses are distinctly bad and will run
+for miles at terrific speed. Then you must just try and stay with them
+and bring them back when they stop, as you can hardly expect to outrun
+them. Still, I do not think that stampeded horses are quite so crazy as
+cattle, and they get over their fright quicker.
+
+Let me try to illustrate a little better an actual stampede. The night
+was calm, clear, but very dark--no moon, and the stars dimmed by fleecy
+cloud strata. The herd of some 2000 steers was bedded down, and had so
+far given no trouble. Supper was over and the first guard on duty, the
+rest of the men lying on their beds chatting and smoking. Each man while
+not on duty has his saddled horse staked close by. Soon everyone has
+turned in for the night. A couple of hours later the first guard come
+in, their spell being over, and the second relief takes their place.
+The cattle are quiet; not a sound breaks the silence except the low
+crooning of some of the boys on duty. But suddenly, what is that
+noise?--like the distant rumbling of guns on the march, or of a heavy
+train crossing a wooden bridge! To one with his head on the ground the
+earth seems almost to tremble. Oh, we know it well! It is the beating of
+8000 hoofs on the hard ground. The cowboy recognizes the dreaded sound
+instantly: it wakens him quicker than anything else. The boss is already
+in his saddle, has summoned the other men, and is off at full gallop.
+The cook gets up, re-trims his lamp, and hangs it as high on the wagon
+top as he can, to be visible as far as possible. It is good two miles
+before we catch up on the stampeded herd, still going at a mad gallop.
+The men are on flank trying to swing them round. But someone seems to be
+in front, as we soon can hear pistol-shots fired in a desperate
+endeavour to stop the lead steers. But even that is no avail, and indeed
+is liable to split the herd in two and so double the work. So the
+thundering race continues, and it is only after many miles have been
+covered that the cattle have run themselves out and we finally get them
+quietened down and turned homewards. Someone is sent out scouting round
+to try to get a view of the cook's lantern and so know our whereabouts.
+But have we got all the cattle? The men are questioned. Where's Pete?
+and where's Red? There must be cattle gone and these two men are staying
+with them. Well, we'll take the herd on anyway, bed them down again, get
+fresh horses, and then hunt up the missing bunch. So, the cattle once
+more "bedded," and every spare hand left with them, as they are liable
+to run again, two of us start out to find if possible the missing men.
+We first take a careful note of the position of any stars that may be
+visible, then start out at an easy lope or canter. It is so dark that it
+seems a hopeless task to find them. Good luck alone may guide us right;
+and good luck serves us well, for after having come some eight or nine
+miles we hear a man "hollering" to us. He had heard our horses' tread,
+and was no doubt mightily relieved at our coming, as of course he was
+completely lost in the darkness and had wisely not made any attempt to
+find his way. But there he was, good fellow, Red! with his little bunch
+of 200 steers. Yes, the herd had split, that's how it was. But where is
+Pete? Oh! he doesn't know; last saw him heading the stampede; never saw
+him since. Can he be lost and still wandering round? That is not likely,
+and we begin to suspect trouble. The small herd is directed campwards,
+and some of us again scout round, halloing and shouting, but keeping our
+eyes well "skinned" for anything on the ground. At last, by the merest
+chance, we come on something; no doubt what it is--the body of a man.
+"Hallo, Pete! What's the matter?" He stirs. "Are you badly hurt?"
+"Dog-gone it, fellows, glad to see you! My horse fell and some cattle
+ran over me. No! I ain't badly hurt; but I guess you'll have to carry me
+home." The poor fellow had several ribs broken, was dreadfully bruised,
+and his left cheek was nearly sliced off. There we had to leave him till
+morning, one of us staying by. Happily Pete got all right again.
+
+Breaking young colts was a somewhat crude process. Not being of the same
+value as better bred stock they were rather roughly treated. If you have
+a number to break you will hire a professional "bronco-buster"; for some
+five dollars a head he will turn them back to you in a remarkably short
+time, bridle-wise, accustomed to the saddle and fairly gentle. But he
+does not guarantee against pitching. Some colts never pitch at all
+during the process, do not seem to know how; but the majority do know,
+and know well! The colt is roped in a corral by the forefeet, jerked
+down, and his head held till bridled; or he is roped round the neck,
+snubbed to a post and so held till he chokes himself by straining on the
+running loop. As soon as he falls a man jumps on to his head and holds
+it firmly in such a way that he cannot get up, and someone slips on the
+Hackamore bridle. Thus you will see that a horse lying on its side
+requires his muzzle as a lever to get him on his feet. Then he is
+allowed to rise and to find, though he may not then realize it, that his
+wild freedom is gone from him for ever. He is trembling with fright and
+excitement, and sweating from every pore. To get the saddle on him he is
+next blindfolded. A strong man grasps the left ear and another man
+slowly approaches and, after quietly and kindly rubbing and patting him,
+gently puts the saddle blanket in place; then the huge and heavy saddle
+with all its loose strings and straps is carefully hoisted and adjusted,
+and the cinch drawn up. In placing the blanket and the saddle there will
+likely be several failures. He will be a poor-spirited horse that does
+not resent it. Now take off the blinders and let him pitch till he is
+tired. Then comes the mounting. He is blinded again, again seized by the
+ear, the cinch pulled very tight, and the rider mounts into the saddle.
+It may be best first to lead him outside the corral, so that he can run
+right off with his man if he wants to. But he won't run far, as he soon
+exhausts himself in his rage and with his tremendous efforts to dismount
+his rider. A real bad one will squeal like a pig, fall back, roll over,
+kick and apparently tie himself into knots. If mastered the first time
+it is a great advantage gained. But should he throw his rider once,
+twice or several times he never forgets that the thing is at least
+possible, and so he may repeat his capers for a long time to come. All
+cow-horses have ever afterwards a holy dread of the rope, never
+forgetting its power and effect experienced during the breaking process.
+Thus, in roping a broken horse on the open or in a corral, if your rope
+simply lies _over_ his neck, and yet not be round it, he will probably
+stop running and resign himself to capture. Even the commonly-used
+single rope corral, held up by men at the corners, they will not try to
+break through. Bronco-busters only last a few years, the hard jarring
+affects their lungs and other organs so disastrously.
+
+One of our men, with the kindest consideration, much appreciated,
+confidentially showed me a simple method of tying up a bronco's head
+with a piece of thin rope, adjusted in a particular way, which made
+pitching or bucking almost, but not always, an impossibility. He was
+perhaps a little shamefaced in doing so, but such sensibility was not
+for me; anything to save one from the horrible shaking up and jarring of
+a pitching horse! And yet there was always the inclination to fix the
+string surreptitiously. Much better that the boys should _not_ see it.
+
+[Illustration: A REAL BAD ONE.]
+
+It may be said here that a horse has a lightning knowledge as to
+whether his rider be afraid of him or not, and acts accordingly. In
+branding my method was to simply tie up one forefoot and blindfold the
+colt, when a small and properly-hot stamp-iron can be quickly and
+effectively applied before he quite knows what is hurting him.
+
+In early days we used only Spanish Mexican broncos for cow-ponies. They
+were broken bridle-wise, and perhaps had been ridden a few times. Bands
+of them were driven north to our country, and for about fifteen dollars
+apiece you might make a selection of the number wanted, say twenty to
+fifty head. Some of these ponies would turn out very well, some of
+little use. You took your chances, and in distributing them amongst the
+men very critical eyes were cast over them, you may be sure, as the boys
+had to ride them no matter what their natures might turn out to be. Such
+ponies were hardy, intelligent, active, and stood a tremendous amount of
+work. Later a larger stamp of cow-horse came into use, even horses with
+perhaps a distant and minute drop of Diomede's blood in them--Diomede,
+who won the first Derby stakes, run for in the Isle of Man by the way,
+and who was sold to America to become the father of United States
+thoroughbreds and progenitor of the great Lexington. But such "improved"
+horses could never do the cow work so well as the old original Spanish
+cayuse.
+
+In a properly-organized cattle country all cattle brands must be
+recorded at the County seat. Because of the prodigious number and
+variety of brands of almost every conceivable pattern and device it is
+difficult to adopt a quite new and safe one that does not conflict in
+some way with others. This for the honest man; the crooked man, the
+thief, the brand-burner is not so troubled. _He_ will select a brand
+such as others already in use may be easily changed into. To give a very
+few instances. If his own brand be 96 and another's 91 the conversion is
+easy. If it be [**#] and another's [**-II-] it is equally easy; or if it
+be [**3--E], as was one of our own brands, the conversion of it into
+[**d--B] is too temptingly simple. It was only after much consideration
+that I adopted for my own personal brand [**U]--a mule shoe on the left
+hip and jaw. It was small and did not damage the hide too much, was
+easily stamped on, looked well and was pretty safe. Among brands I have
+seen was HELL in large letters covering the animal's whole side.
+
+With a band of horses a bell-mare (madrina) is sometimes used. The mare
+is gentle, helps to keep the lot together, and the bell lets you know on
+a dark night where they are. With a lot of mules a madrina is always
+used, as her charges will never leave her.
+
+All the grooming cow-ponies get is self-administered. After a long ride,
+on pulling the saddle off, the pony is turned loose, when he at once
+proceeds to roll himself from one side to another, finishing up with a
+"shake" before he goes off grazing. If he has been overridden he may not
+succeed in rolling completely over. This is regarded as a sure sign that
+he has been overridden, and you know that he will take some days, or
+even maybe weeks, to recover from it. I have seen horses brought in
+absolutely staggering and trembling and so turned loose. A favourite
+mount is seldom so mistreated; and if the boss is present the rider
+knows he will take a note of it. One can imagine how delightful and
+refreshing this roll and shake must be, quite as refreshing as a cold
+bath (would be) to the tired and perspiring rider. Alas! cold or hot
+baths are not obtainable by the cattleman for possibly months at a time.
+The face and hands alone can receive attention. The new and modern idea
+of bodily self-cleansing is here effectually put in force and apparently
+with good health results. The rivers when in flood are extremely muddy;
+when not they are very shallow, and the water is usually alkaline and
+undrinkable, as well as quite useless for bathing purposes.
+
+Cow-ponies generally have sound feet and durable hoofs, but in very
+sandy countries the hoofs will spread out in a most astonishing way and
+need constant trimming.
+
+In droughty countries like Arizona and New Mexico we were frequently
+reduced to serious straits to find decent drinking-water. On many
+occasions I have drunk, and drunk with relief and satisfaction, such
+filthy, slimy, greenish-looking stuff as would disgust a frog and give
+the _Lancet_ a fit, though that discriminating journal would probably
+call it soup. Sometimes even water, and I well remember the places, that
+was absolutely a struggling mass of small red creatures that yet really
+tasted not at all badly. Anyway it was better than the green slime.
+Thirst is a sensation that must be satisfied at any cost. Once when
+travelling in the South Arizona country, we being all strung out in
+Indian file, over a dozen of us, the lead man came on a most
+enticing-looking pool of pure water. Of course he at once jumped off,
+took a hearty draught, spat it out and probably made a face, but saying
+nothing rode quietly on. The next man did the same, and so it went on
+till our predecessors had each and all the satisfaction of knowing that
+he was not the only man fooled. The water was so hot, though showing no
+sign of it, that it was quite undrinkable--a very hot spring.
+
+In the alkali district on the Pecos River the dust raised at a round-up
+is so dense that the herd cannot even be seen at 200 yards distance.
+This dust is most irritating to the eyes; and many of the men, including
+myself, were sometimes so badly affected that they had to stop work for
+weeks at a time.
+
+In circuses and Wild-West shows one frequently sees cowgirls on the
+bill. Of course, on actual work on the range there is no such thing as a
+cowgirl. At least I never saw one.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+ON MY OWN RANCH
+
+     Locating--Plans--Prairie Fires and
+     Guards--Bulls--Trading--Successful Methods--Loco-weed--Sale of
+     Ranch.
+
+
+A year before selling out the Company's cattle I had started a small
+ranch for myself. Seeing that it was quite hopeless to run cattle
+profitably on the open-range system, and having longing eyes on a
+certain part of the plains which was covered with very fine grass and
+already fenced on one side by the Texas line--knowing also quite well
+that fencing of public land in New Mexico was strictly against the law
+(land in the territories is the property of the Federal Government,
+which will neither lease it nor sell it, but holds it for
+home-steading)--I yet went to work, bought a lot of wire and posts, gave
+a contract to a fence-builder and boldly ran a line over thirty miles
+long enclosing something like 100,000 acres. The location was part of
+the country where our stock horses used to run with the mustangs, and so
+I knew every foot of it pretty well. There was practically no limit to
+the acreage I might have enclosed; and I had then the choice of all
+sorts of country--country with lots of natural shelter for cattle, and
+even country where water in abundance could be got close to the surface.
+In my selected territory I knew quite well that it was very deep to
+water and that it would cost a lot of money in the shape of deep wells
+and powerful windmills to get it out; yet it was for this very reason
+that I so selected it. Would not the country in a few years swarm with
+settlers ("nesters" as we called small farmers), and would they not of
+course first select the land where water was shallow? They could not
+afford to put in expensive wells and windmills. Thus I argued, and thus
+it turned out exactly as anticipated. The rest of the country became
+settled up by these nesters, but I was left alone for some eight years
+absolutely undisturbed and in complete control of this considerable
+block of land. More than that the County Assessor and collector actually
+missed me for two years, not even knowing of my existence; and for the
+whole period of eight years I never paid one cent for rent. On my
+windmill locations I put "Scrip" in blocks of forty acres. Otherwise I
+owned or rented not a foot.
+
+Just a line or two here. I happen to have known the man who invented
+barbed wire and who had his abundant reward. Blessings on him! though
+one is sometimes inclined to add cursings too. It is dangerous stuff to
+handle. Heavy gloves should always be worn. The flesh is so torn by the
+ragged barb that the wound is most irritating and hard to heal. When my
+fence was first erected it was a common thing to find antelope hung up
+in it, tangled in it, and cut to pieces. Once we found a mustang horse
+with its head practically cut completely off. The poor brutes had a hard
+experience in learning the nature of this strange, almost invisible,
+death-trap stretched across what was before their own free, open and
+boundless territory. And what frightful wounds some of the ponies would
+occasionally suffer by perhaps trying to jump over such a fence or even
+force their way through it; ponies from the far south, equally ignorant
+with the antelope of the dangers of the innocent-looking slender wire.
+In another way these fences were sometimes the cause of loss of beast
+life, as for instance when some of my cattle drifted against the fence
+during a thunder and rain storm and a dozen of them were killed by one
+stroke of lightning.
+
+Into this preserve my cattle-breeding stock were put: very few in number
+to begin with, yet as many as my means afforded. My Company job and
+salary would soon be a thing of the past and my future must depend
+entirely on the success of this undertaking. Once before I had boldly,
+perhaps rashly, taken a lease of a celebrated steer pasture in Carson
+County, Texas, and gone to Europe to try and float a company, the
+proposition being to use the pasture, then, and still, the very best in
+Texas, for wintering yearling steers. No sounder proposition or more
+promising one could have been put forward. But all my efforts to get the
+capital needed failed and it was fortunate for me that at the end of one
+year I succeeded in getting a cancellation of the lease. On first
+securing the lease the season was well advanced and it became an anxiety
+to me as to where I should get cattle to put in the pasture, if only
+enough to pay the year's rent--some 7000 dollars. One man, a canny
+Scotsman, had been holding and grazing a large herd of 4000 two-year-old
+steers, all in one straight brand, on the free range just outside. He
+knew I wanted cattle and I knew he wanted grass, as he could not find a
+buyer and the season was late. We both played "coon," but I must say I
+began to feel a bit uncomfortable. At last greatly to my relief and joy,
+he approached me, and after a few minutes' dickering I had the
+satisfaction of counting into pasture this immense herd of 4000 cattle.
+Meantime, I had also been corresponding with another party and very soon
+afterwards closed a deal with him for some 3700 more two-year-old
+steers. Thus with 7700 head the pasture was nearly fully stocked, the
+rent for the first year was assured, and I prepared to go to the Old
+Country to form the company before mentioned. But before going I found
+it necessary to throw in a hundred or so old cows to keep the steers
+quiet. The steers had persisted in walking the fences, travelling in
+great strings round and round the pasture. They had lots of grass, water
+and salt, but something else was evidently lacking. Immediately the cows
+were turned loose all the uneasiness and dissatisfaction ceased. No more
+fence walking and no more danger (for me) of them breaking out. The
+family life seemed complete. The suddenness of the effect was very
+remarkable. This pasture has ever since been used solely for my proposed
+purpose and every year has been a tremendous success.
+
+First of all a word about my house and home. Built on what may be called
+the Spanish plan, of adobes (sun-dried bricks), the walls were 2-1/2
+feet thick, and there was a courtyard in the centre. Particular
+attention was paid to the roof, which was first boarded over, then on
+the boards three inches of mud, and over that sheets of corrugated iron.
+The whole idea of the adobes and the mud being to secure a cool
+temperature in summer and warmth in winter. No other materials are so
+effective.
+
+As explained before, there were no trees or shrubs of any kind within a
+radius of many miles. So to adorn this country seat I cut and threw
+into my buggy one day a young shoot of cotton-wood tree, hauled it
+fifty miles to the ranch, and stuck it in the centre of the court. Water
+was never too plentiful; so why not make use of the soap-suddy washings
+which the boys and all of us habitually threw out there? When the tree
+did grow up, and it thrived amazingly, its shade became the recognized
+lounging-place. With a few flowering shrubs added the patio assumed
+quite a pretty aspect. Another feature of the house was that the
+foundations were laid so deep, and of rock, that skunks could not burrow
+underneath, which is quite a consideration. Under my winter cottage at
+the Meadows Ranch in Arizona skunks always denned and lay up during the
+cold weather, selecting a point immediately under the warm hearthstone.
+There, as one sat reading over the fire, these delightful animals,
+within a foot of you, would carry on their family wrangles and in their
+excitement give evidence of their own nature; but happily the offence
+was generally a very mild one and evidently not maliciously intended.
+
+Around the house was planted a small orchard and attempts were made at
+vegetable-growing. But water was too scarce to do the plants justice.
+Everything must be sacrificed to the cattle. One lesson it taught me,
+however, and that is that no matter how much water you irrigate with,
+one good downpour from Nature's fertilizing watering-can is worth more
+than weeks of irrigation. Rain water has a quality of its own which well
+or tank water cannot supply. Plants respond to it at once by adopting a
+cheery, healthy aspect. It had another equally valuable character in
+that it destroyed the overwhelming bugs. How it destroyed them I don't
+know: perhaps it drowned them; anyway they disappeared at once.
+
+In my own pasture in New Mexico I for various reasons decided to
+"breed," instead of simply handle steers. Steers were certainly safer
+and surer, and the life was an easy one. But there appeared to me
+greater possibilities in breeding if the cows were handled right and
+taken proper care of. It will be seen by-and-by that my anticipations
+were more than justified, so that the success of this little ranch has
+been a source of pride to me.
+
+The ranch was called "Running Water," because situated on Running Water
+Draw, a creek that never to my knowledge "ran" except after a very heavy
+rain. Prairie fires were the greatest danger in this level range
+country, there being no rivers, ca�ons, or even roads to check their
+advance. Lightning might set the grass afire; a match carelessly dropped
+by the cigarette-smoker; a camp fire not properly put out; or any
+mischievously-inclined individual might set the whole country ablaze.
+Indeed, the greatest prairie fire I have record of was maliciously
+started to windward of my ranch by an ill-disposed neighbour (one of the
+men whose cattle the Scotch Company had closed out and who ever after
+had a grudge against me) purposely to burn me out. He did not quite
+succeed, as by hard fighting all night we managed to save half the
+grass; but the fire extended 130 miles into Texas, burning out a strip
+from thirty to sixty miles wide. On account of a very high wind blowing
+that fire jumped my "guard," a term which needs explanation. All round
+my pasture, on the outside of the fence, for a distance of over forty
+miles was ploughed a fire-guard thus: two or three ploughed furrows and,
+100 feet apart, other two or three ploughed furrows, there being thus a
+strip of land forty miles long and 100 feet wide. Between these furrows
+we burnt the grass, an operation that required great care and yet must
+be done as expeditiously as possible to save time, labour and expense. A
+certain amount of wind must be blowing so as to insure a clean and rapid
+burn; but a high gusty wind is most dangerous, as the flames are pretty
+sure to jump the furrows, enter the pasture, and get away from you. The
+excitement at such a critical time is of course very great. In such
+cases it was at first our practice to catch and kill a yearling, split
+it open and hitch ropes to the hind feet, when two of us mounted men
+would drag the entire carcass over the line of fire. It was effective
+but an expensive and cumbrous method. Later I adopted a device called a
+"drag," composed of iron chains, in the nature of a harrow, covered by a
+raw hide for smothering purposes. This could be dragged quite rapidly
+and sometimes had to be used over miles and miles of encroaching fire.
+The horses might get badly burnt, and in very rank grass where the
+fierce flames were six to eight feet high it was useless. Sometimes we
+worked all night, and no doubt it formed a picturesque spectacle and a
+scene worthy of an artist's brush. Across the centre of the pasture for
+further safety, as also around the bull and horse pasture, was a similar
+fire-guard, so that I had in all some fifty-five miles of guard to
+plough and burn. It is such critical and dangerous, yet necessary, work
+that I always took care to be present myself and personally boss the
+operation. Without such a fire-guard one is never free from anxiety.
+Many other ranchers who were careless in this matter paid dearly for it.
+These fires were dangerous in other ways. A dear old friend of mine was
+caught by and burnt to death in one. Another man, a near neighbour, when
+driving a team of mules, got caught likewise, and very nearly lost his
+life. He was badly burnt and lost his team.
+
+Hitherto it had been the universal custom of cattlemen to use "grade"
+bulls, many of them, alas! mere "scrubs" of no breeding at all. No one
+used pure-bred registered bulls except to raise "grade" bulls with. I
+determined to use "registered" pure-bred bulls alone, and no others, to
+raise _steers_ with, and was the first man to my knowledge to do so.
+Neighbours ridiculed the idea, saying that they would not get many
+calves, that they could not or would not "rustle"--that is, they would
+not get about with the cows--that they would need nursing and feeding
+and would not stand the climate. Well, I went east, selected and bought
+at very reasonable figures the number needed, all very high bred, indeed
+some of them fashionably so, and took them to the ranch. By the way,
+bulls were not called bulls in "polite" society: you must call them
+"males." Very shortly afterwards there was a rise in value of cattle, a
+strong demand for such bulls, and prices went "out of sight." Thus the
+bulls that cost me some 100 dollars apiece in a little while were worth
+200 or even 300 dollars. The young bulls "rustled" splendidly, and as
+next spring came along there was much interest felt as to results. To my
+great delight almost every cow had a calf, and nearly every calf was
+alike red body and white face, etc. (Hereford). I kept and used these
+same bulls six or seven seasons; every year got the highest calf-brand
+or crop amongst all my neighbours; and soon, with prudent culling of the
+cows, my small herd (some 2000) was the best in the country; and my
+young steers topped the market, beating even the crack herds that had
+been established for twenty years and had great reputations.
+
+To give an instance: my principle was to work with little or no borrowed
+money. Thus my position was such that I did not always _have_ to market
+my steers to pay running expenses; and as I hate trading and dickering,
+as it is called, my independence gave me a strong position. Well, once
+when travelling to the ranch I met on the train two "feeders" from the
+north, who told me they wanted to buy two or three hundred choice
+two-year-old, high-bred, even, well-coloured and well-shaped steers.
+Having by chance some photos in my pocket of my steers (as yearlings
+taken the year before) I produced them. They seemed pleased with them
+and asked the price, which I told them; but they said no ranch cattle
+were worth that money and ridiculed the idea of my asking it. "Oh," I
+said, "it is nothing to me; that is the price of the cattle," but I
+carefully also told them how to get to my place and invited them to come
+and see me. Oh, no! they said it was too ridiculous! We travelled on to
+Amarillo and I at once went out to Running Water. Only two days
+afterwards, on coming in to dinner, I found my two gentlemen seated on
+the porch waiting for me. After dinner we saddled up and went out to see
+the steers. The dealers were evidently surprised and made a long and
+careful inspection. Evidently they were well pleased, and on returning
+to the house it was also evident that they were going to adopt the usual
+tactics of whittling a small piece of wood (a seemingly necessary
+accompaniment to a trade) and "dickering"; so I again told them my
+terms, same as before, and hinted that they might take or leave them as
+they liked. The deal was closed without further ado, some money put up,
+and next day I started for England, leaving to the foreman the duty and
+responsibility of delivering the steers at the date specified. These
+men, like most other operators, were dealing with borrowed money got
+from commission houses in Kansas City. I learnt afterwards that their
+Kansas City friends, on hearing of the trade, refused to supply the
+funds till they had sent a man out specially to see the two-year-old
+steers that could possibly be worth so much money. He came out, saw
+them, and reported them to be well worth the price; and they were
+acknowledged to be the finest small bunch of steers ever shipped out of
+the south-west country. This was very gratifying indeed.
+
+Another revolution in ranch practice was the keeping up of my bulls in
+winter-time and not putting them out with the cows till the middle of
+July. This also met with the ridicule of all the "old-timers"; but it
+was entirely successful! The calf crop was not only a very large one but
+the calves were dropped all about the same time, were thus of an even
+age (an important matter for dealers), and they "came" when their
+mothers were strong and had lots of milk.
+
+Young cows and heifers having their first calves had to be watched very
+closely, and we had often to help them in delivery. It may also be
+mentioned here that the sight of a green, freshly-skinned hide, or a
+freshly-skinned carcass, will frequently cause cows to "slink" their
+calves. The smell of blood too creates a tremendous commotion amongst
+the cattle generally; why, is not quite known.
+
+I also made a practice in early spring of taking up weak or poor cows
+that looked like needing it, putting them in a separate pasture and
+feeding them on just two pounds of cotton-seed meal once a day; no hay,
+only the dry, wild grass in the small pasture. The good effect of even
+such a pittance of meal was simply astounding. Thereafter I do not think
+I ever lost a single cow from poverty or weakness. This use of meal on
+a range ranch was in its way also a novelty. Afterwards it became
+general and prices of cotton-seed and cotton-seed meal doubled and more.
+
+When a very large number of range cattle, say 2000 or so, required
+feeding on account of poverty, hay in our country not being obtainable,
+cotton-seed (whole) would be fed to them by the simple and effective
+method of loading a large wagon with it, driving it over the pasture,
+and scattering thinly, not dumping, the seed on to the grass sod. The
+cattle would soon get so fond of it that they would come running as soon
+as the wagon appeared and follow it up in a long string, the strongest
+and greediest closest to the wagon, the poor emaciated, poverty-stricken
+ones tailing off in the rear. But not one single seed was wasted,
+everyone being gleaned and picked up in a very short time. It is the
+best, easiest and most effective way: indeed, the only possible way with
+such a large number of claimants. And as said before, the recuperating
+effect of this cotton-seed is simply astonishing. It may be noted,
+however, that if fed in bulk and to excess the animals will sometimes go
+blind, which must be guarded against.
+
+In the matter of salt it had become the common practice to use sacked
+stuff (pulverized) for cattle. There was a strong prejudice against
+rock salt; so much so that when I decided to buy a carload or two it had
+to be specially ordered. Another laugh was raised at my proposed use of
+it. The cattle would get sore tongues, or they would spend so long a
+time licking it they would have no time to graze, etc., etc. Meantime I
+had lost some cows by their too quick lapping of the pulverized stuff.
+Thereafter I never lost one from such a cause and the cattle throve
+splendidly. Besides, the rock salt was much easier handled and
+considerably more economical.
+
+My wells were deep, none less than 250 feet, the iron casing 10-inch
+diameter, the pipe 6-inch or 8-inch, and the mill-wheels 20 feet in
+diameter; this huge wind power being necessary to pump up from such a
+depth a sufficiency of water. The water was pumped directly into very
+large shallow drinking wooden tubs, thence into big reserve earthen
+tanks (fenced in), and thence again led by pipe to other large
+drinking-tubs outside and below the tanks, supplied with floating
+stop-valves. This arrangement, arrived at after much deliberation,
+worked very well indeed; no water was wasted, and it was always clean;
+and in very cold weather the cattle always got warm, freshly-pumped well
+water in the upper tub, an important matter and one reason why my cattle
+always did so well. But oh, dear! the trouble and work we often had
+with these wells! Perhaps in zero temperature something would go wrong
+with the pump valve or the piston leather would wear out, or in a new
+well the quicksand would work in. Neither myself, foreman nor boy was an
+expert or had any mechanical knowledge; though continued troubles, much
+hard work, accompanied by, alas! harder language, was a capital
+apprenticeship. In bitter cold freezing weather I well remember we once
+had to pull out the rods and the piping three times in succession before
+we got the damned thing into shape, and then we did not know what had
+been the matter. To pull up first 250 feet of heavy rod, disjoint it,
+and lay it carefully aside; then pull up 250 feet of 6-inch or 8-inch
+iron piping, in 20-feet lengths, clamp and disjoint it, and put it
+carefully aside; then to use the sand-bucket to get the sand out of the
+well if necessary; repair and put into proper shape the valve and
+cylinder, etc.; then (and these are all parts of one operation),
+re-lower and connect the 250 feet of heavy piping, the equally long
+rods, and attach to the mill itself--oh, what anxiety to know if it was
+going to work or not! On this particular occasion, as stated, we--self,
+foreman and one boy--actually had to go through this tedious and
+dangerous performance three times in succession! To pull out the piping
+great power is needed, and we at first used a capstan made on the ranch
+and worked by hand. But it was slow work, very slow, and very hard work
+too; afterwards we used a stout, steady team of horses, with double
+tackle, and found it to work much more expeditiously. But there was
+always a great and ever-present danger of the pipe slipping, or a clamp,
+a bolt, or a hook, or even the rope breaking with disastrous results.
+
+These wells and mills afforded any disgruntled cowhand or "friendly"
+neighbour a simple and convenient opportunity of "getting even," as a
+single small nail dropped down a pipe at once clogged the valve and
+rendered the tedious operation necessary. I had altogether five of such
+wells.
+
+A little more "brag," if it may be called so, and I shall have done. But
+it will need some telling, and perhaps credulity on the reader's part. A
+certain wild plant called "loco" grows profusely in many parts of the
+Western States; but nowhere more profusely than it did in my pasture.
+Indeed it looked like this particular spot must have been its place of
+origin and its stronghold in time of adversity. Certainly, although it
+was common all over the plains, I never saw in any place such a dense
+and vigorous growth of it, covering like an alfalfa field solid blocks
+of hundreds of acres. This is no exaggeration. It had killed a few of
+our cattle in Arizona and ruined some of our best horses. The Scotch
+Company lost many hundreds of cattle by it, and also some horses. The
+plant seems to flourish in cycles of about seven years; that is, though
+some of it may be present every year it only comes in abundance,
+overwhelming abundance, once in the period stated. The peculiarity about
+it, too, is that it grows in the winter months and has flowered and
+seeded and died down by midsummer. Thus it is the only green and
+succulent-looking plant to be seen in winter-time on the brown plains.
+It is very conspicuous and in appearance much resembles clover or
+alfalfa. Cattle as a rule will avoid it, but for some unknown reason the
+time comes when you hear the expression the "cattle are eating loco." If
+so they will continue to eat it, to eat nothing else, till it is all
+gone; and those eating it will set the example to others, and all that
+have eaten it will go stark staring mad and the majority of them die.
+Horses are even more liable to take to it, and are affected exactly in
+the same way; they go quite crazy, refuse to drink water, cannot be led,
+and have a dazed, stupid appearance and a tottering gait, till finally
+they decline and die for want of nourishment. I have seen locoed horses
+taken up and fed on grain, when some of them recovered and quite got
+over the habit even of eating the weed; but these were exceptions. Most
+locoed horses remained too stupid to do anything with and were never of
+much value. There is one strange fact, however, about them; saddle
+horses, slightly locoed, just so bad that they cannot be led, and
+therefore useless as saddlers, do, when hitched up to a wagon or buggy,
+though never driven before, make splendid work horses. They go like
+automatons; will trot if allowed till they fall down, and never balk.
+The worst outlaw horse we ever had, one that had thrown all the great
+riders of the country and had never been mastered, this absolute
+devilish beast got a pretty bad dose of the weed; and, to experiment, we
+hitched him up in a wagon, when lo! he went off like any old steady team
+horse. This is all very interesting; but that is enough as to its effect
+on live stock.
+
+At the request of the Department of Agriculture I sent to Washington
+some specimens of a grub which, when the plant reaches its greatest
+exuberance and abundance, infests it, eating out its heart and so
+killing it. It destroys the plant, but alas! generally too late to
+prevent the seed maturing and falling to earth. The plant itself has
+been several times carefully examined, its juices tested and
+experimentally administered to various animals. But no absolutely
+satisfactory explanation of its effects has been given out; and
+certainly no antidote or cure of its effects suggested.
+
+Well, in a certain year the seven years' cycle came round; faithfully
+the loco plant cropped up all over the plains, the seed that had lain
+dormant for many years germinated and developed everywhere. As winter
+approached (in October) my fall round-up was due. Calves had to be
+branded, some old cows sold, and some steers delivered. I had sold
+nothing that year. On rounding-up the horses many of them showed signs
+of the weed. The neighbours flocked in and the work began. Only one
+round-up was made, when the idea seized me that if these cattle were
+"worked" in the usual way--that is, jammed round, chased about and
+"milled" for several hours--they would get tired and hungry, and on
+being turned loose would be inclined to eat whatever was nearest to
+them--probably the loco plant. It seemed so reasonable a fear, and I was
+so anxious about the cattle, that I ordered the foreman there and then
+to turn the herd quietly loose, explained to the neighbours my reasons
+for doing so, but allowed them to cut out what few cattle they had in
+the herd: and the year's work was thus at once abandoned. All that
+winter was a very anxious time. Reports came in from neighbouring
+ranches that their cattle were dying in hundreds. On driving through
+their pastures the loco appeared eaten to the ground; all the cattle
+were after it, and poor, staggering, crazy animals were met on the road
+without sense enough to get out of your way. By the end of next spring
+some of my neighbours had few cattle left to round-up. One neighbour,
+the largest cattle-ranch in the world, owning some 200,000 head, was
+estimated to have lost at least 20,000. And meantime how were affairs
+going in my little place? It will seem incredible, but what is here
+written is absolute truth. The loco was belly high; the self-weaned
+calves could be seen wading through it; but ne'er a nibbled or eaten
+plant could be found. I often searched carefully for such dreaded signs
+but happily always failed: and I did not lose a single cow, calf or
+steer, nor were any found showing the slightest signs of being affected.
+
+Many reasons were advanced for the miraculous escape of these cattle;
+people from a hundred miles away came to see and learn the reason. No
+satisfactory explanation was suggested, and finally they were compelled
+to accept my own one, and agree that leaving the cattle undisturbed by
+abandoning the fall round-up was the real solution of the problem. The
+only work my men did that winter was to keep the fences up and in good
+shape, and whenever they saw stray cattle in my pasture to turn them out
+at once, fearing the danger of bad example. Next winter, the loco being
+still very bad, the same tactics were adopted and only one solitary
+yearling of mine was affected. So ended the worst loco visitation
+probably ever experienced in the West; not perhaps that the plant was
+more abundant than at some other periods, though I think it was, but for
+some unknown reason the cattle ate it more freely.
+
+The temperature on these plains sometimes went so low as 20� below zero,
+with wind blowing. There was no natural shelter, literally nothing as
+big as your hat in the pasture, and several men advised the building of
+sheds, wind-breaks, etc. But experience told me just the opposite. I had
+seen cattle (well fed and carefully tended) freeze to death inside sheds
+and barns. Also I had seen whole bunches of cattle standing shivering
+behind open sheds and wind-breaks till they practically froze to death
+or became so emaciated as to eventually die of poverty. If you give
+cattle shelter they will be always hanging around it. So I built no
+sheds or anything else. When a blizzard came my cattle had to travel,
+and the continued travelling backwards and forwards kept the blood in
+circulation. There were a few cases of horns, feet, ears and mamm�
+frozen off, but I never had a cow frozen to death and never lost any
+directly from the severity of the weather. More than that, I never fed a
+pound of hay.
+
+Our name for calves that had lost their mothers, and therefore the
+nourishment obtained from milk, was "dogies." These dogies were ever
+afterwards unmistakable in appearance, and remained stunted, "runty"
+little animals of no value. Yet, if taken up early enough and fed on
+nourishing diet, they would develop into as large and well-grown cattle
+as their more fortunate fellows.[2]
+
+[Footnote 2: Appendix, Note III.]
+
+My foreman was an ordinary cowboy, but he was a thorough cattleman, had
+already been in my employ for seven years, and his "little
+peculiarities" were pretty well known to me. He became desperately
+jealous of his position (as foreman), resenting interference. It is a
+good characteristic, this desire for independence, if also accompanied
+by no fear of responsibility; and on these lines my ranch was run. I
+allowed him great independence, never interfered so long as he carried
+out general orders and "ran straight"; but I also put on him full
+responsibility. More than that, I allowed him to run his own small bunch
+of cattle, some hundred head, in my pasture, and gave him the use of my
+bulls; his grass, salt and water cost him nothing. This was a very
+unusual policy to adopt. But the idea was that it would thus be as much
+his interest as mine to see the fences kept up and in good repair, to
+see that the windmills and wells were kept in order, that the cattle
+had salt, were not stolen, etc., and prairie fires guarded against.
+Well, it all turned out right. My presence at the ranch during a year
+would not perhaps amount to a month of days; I could live in Denver, San
+Francisco or Mexico, and only come to the place at round-ups and
+branding-times. I do not think that a calf was ever stolen from me. The
+fact was I knew cattle in general and my own cattle in particular so
+well (and he knew it) that he had no opportunity, and perhaps was afraid
+to take advantage of me.
+
+It must be here mentioned that on selling out, and in tallying my cattle
+over to the buyer, the count was disappointingly short; not nearly so
+short as the Scotch Company's cattle, it is true, but still, considering
+that my cattle were inside a good fence, were well looked after, the
+huge calf crop and apparently small death loss, there was a shortage.
+Then there is no wonder at the greater shortage of the Company's cattle,
+where almost no care could be taken of them, where the calf tallies were
+in the hands of, and returned by, the foremen of other outfits, where
+the range was overstocked, the boggy rivers a death-trap, where wolves
+and thieves had free range, and where blackleg, mismothering of calves
+and loco made a big hole in the number of yearlings. In my pasture were
+also wolves and blackleg; and the loss in calves by these, difficult to
+detect, is invariably greater than suspected.
+
+Only one case of cattle-thieving occurred at my own ranch and I lost
+nothing by it. Two men stopped in for supper one day; they were
+strangers, but of course received every attention. They rode on
+afterwards, coolly picked up some thirty head of my cattle, drove them
+all night into Texas and sold them to a farmer there. Of course they
+were not missed out of so many cattle; but someone in Texas had seen
+them at their new home, noticed my brand and sent word to me. On going
+after them I found they had been sold to an innocent man who had paid
+cash for them and taken no bill of sale. It was not a pleasant duty to
+demand the cattle back from such a man, but he ought to have known
+better.
+
+Some rustlers in Arizona once detached from a train at a small station a
+couple of carloads of beef cattle, ran them back down the track to the
+corral, there unloaded the cattle and drove them off. This very smart
+trick of course was done during the night and while the crew were at
+supper.
+
+For all these reasons it will be seen why my small ranch was such a
+success and such a profitable and money-making institution. But alas! it
+was to be short-lived! As explained before, I was paying no rent and my
+fences were illegal. "Kind" friends, and I had lots of them, reported
+the fences to Washington; a special agent was sent out to inspect,
+ordered the fence down and went away again. I disregarded the order. To
+take the fence down meant my getting out of the business or the ruin of
+the herd. Next year another agent came out, said my fence was an
+enclosure and must come down. Seeing still some daylight I took down
+some few miles of it, so that it could not be defined as an enclosure,
+but only a drift-fence. During the winter, however, I could not resist
+closing the gap again. Next season once more appeared a Government
+agent, who in a rage ordered the fence down under pains and penalties
+which could not well be longer disregarded. Cattle were up in price; a
+neighbour had long been anxious to buy me out; he was somewhat of a
+"smart Alick" and thought _he_ could keep the fence up; he knew all the
+circumstances; so I went over and saw him, made a proposition, and in a
+few minutes the ranch, cattle, fences and mills were his. Poor man! in
+six months his fence was down and the cattle scattered all over the
+country. He eventually lost heavily by the deal; but being a man of
+substance I got my money all right. So closed my cattle-ranching
+experiences some eight years ago (1902).
+
+It may be noted that experience showed that polled black bulls were no
+good for ranch purposes. They get few calves, are lazy, and have not
+the "rustling" spirit. Durhams or Shorthorns also compared poorly in
+these respects with Herefords, and besides are not nearly so hardy. The
+white face is therefore king of the range. And bulls with red rings
+round the eyes by preference, as they can stand the bright glare of
+these hot, dry countries better. It used to be my keen delight to attend
+the annual cattle shows and auction sales of pure-bred bulls, and I
+would feel their hides and criticize their points till I almost began to
+imagine myself as competent as the ring judges.
+
+The ranch was in the heart of the great buffalo range. (Indeed the
+Comanche Indians, and even some white men, used to believe firmly that
+the buffaloes each spring came up out of the ground like ants somewhere
+on these Staked Plains, and from thence made their annual pilgrimage
+north.) It seems these animals were not loco eaters.
+
+On my first coming to New Mexico there were still some buffaloes on the
+plain, the last remnant of the uncountable, inconceivable numbers that
+not long before had swarmed over the country. Even when the first
+railroads were built trains were sometimes held up for hours to let the
+herds pass. As late as 1871 Colonel Dodge relates that he rode for
+twenty-five miles directly through an immense herd, the whole country
+around him and in view being like a solid mass of buffaloes, all moving
+north. In fact, during these years the migrating herd was declared to
+have a front of thirty to forty miles wide, while the length or depth
+was unknown. An old buffalo hunter loves nothing better than to talk of
+the wonderful old times. One of the oldest living ranchmen still has a
+private herd near Amarillo and has made many experiments in breeding the
+bulls to domestic Galloway cows. The progeny, which he calls cattalo,
+make excellent beef, and he gets a very big price for the hides as
+robes.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+ODDS AND ENDS
+
+     The "Staked Plains"--High Winds--Lobo Wolves--Branding--Cows--Black
+     Jack--Lightning and Hail--Classing Cattle--Conventions--"Cutting"
+     versus Polo--Bull-Fight--Prize-Fights--River and Sea
+     Fishing--Sharks.
+
+
+More odds and ends! and more apologies for the disconnected character of
+this chapter. It must be remembered that these notes are only jotted
+down as they have occurred to me. Of their irrelativeness one to another
+I am quite conscious, but the art of bringing them together in more
+proper order is beyond my capacity. Possibly it might not be advisable
+anyway.
+
+In my pasture of some 100,000 acres there was not a tree, a bush, or a
+shrub, or object of any nature bigger than a jack-rabbit; yet no sight
+was so gladsome to the eyes, no scenery (save the mark!) so beautiful as
+the range when clothed in green, the grass heading out, the lakes filled
+with water and the cattle fat, sleek and contented. Yet in after years,
+when passing through this same country by the newly-built railway in
+winter-time, it came as a wonder to me how one could have possibly
+passed so many years of his life in such a dreary, desolate,
+uninteresting-looking region. To-day the whole district, even my own old
+and familiar ranch, is desecrated (in the cattleman's eyes) by little
+nesters' (settlers) cottages, and fences so thick and close together as
+to resemble a Boer entanglement. I had done a bit of farming and some
+years raised good crops of Milo maize, Kafir corn, sorghum, rye, and
+even Indian corn. But severe droughts come on, when, as a nester once
+told me, for two years nothing was raised, not even umbrellas!
+
+These plains are, it may be safely said, the windiest place on earth,
+especially in early spring, when the measured velocity sometimes shows
+eighty miles per hour. When the big circular tumble weeds are bounding
+over the plains then is the time to look out for prairie fires; and woe
+betide the man caught in a blizzard in these lonely regions.
+
+Once when driving from a certain ranch to another, a distance of fifty
+miles, my directions were to "follow the main road." Fifty miles was no
+great distance and my team was a good one. I knew there were no houses
+between the two points. After driving what long experience told me was
+more than fifty miles, and still no ranch, I became a bit anxious; but
+there was nothing for it but to keep going. Black clouds in the north
+warned me of danger. I pushed the team along till they were wet with
+sweat; some snow fell; it grew dark as night; and a regular blizzard set
+in and I was in despair. I had a good bed in the buggy, so would myself
+probably have got through the night all right, but my horses were bound
+to freeze to death if staked out or tied up. As a last resource I threw
+the reins down and left it to the team to go wherever they pleased. For
+some time they kept on the road, but soon the jolting told me that they
+had left it and we began to go down a hill; in a little while great was
+my joy to see a light and to find ourselves soon in the hospitable
+shelter of a Mexican sheep-herder's hut. The Mexican unhitched the team
+and put them in a warm shed. For myself, he soon had hot coffee and
+tortillas on the table. I never felt so thankful in my life for such
+accommodation and such humble fare. The horses had never been in that
+part of the country before, that I knew; it was pitch dark, and yet they
+must have known in some mysterious way that in that direction was
+shelter and safety, as when I threw the lines down they even then
+continued to face the storm.
+
+It may be noted here that buffaloes always face the storm and travel
+against it; cattle and horses never.
+
+Before entirely leaving the cattle business a few more notes may be of
+interest.
+
+Plagues of grasshoppers and locusts sometimes did awful damage to the
+range.
+
+When visiting at a neighbour's one must not dismount till invited to do
+so; also in saluting anyone the gloves must be removed before shaking
+hands. This is cowboy etiquette and must be duly regarded.
+
+At public or semi-private dances there is always a master of ceremonies,
+who is also prompter and calls out all the movements. He will announce a
+"quardreele," or maybe a "shorteesche," and keeps the company going with
+his "Get your partners!" "Balance all!" "Swing your partners!" "Hands
+across!" "How do you do?" and "How are you?" "Swing somewhere," and
+"Don't forget the bronco-buster," etc. etc., as someone has described
+it. The Mexicans are always most graceful dancers; cowboys, with their
+enormously high heels, and probably spurs, are a bit clumsy. At purely
+Mexican dances (Bailies) the two sexes do not speak, each retiring at
+the end of a dance to its own side of the room.
+
+Most cowboys have the peculiar faculty of "humming," produced by shaping
+the mouth and tongue in a certain way. The "hum" can be made to exactly
+represent the bagpipes; no one else did I ever hear do it but
+cowpunchers. I have tried for hours but never quite succeeded in the
+art.
+
+Besides coyotes, which are everywhere common, the plains were infested
+by lobo wolves, a very large and powerful species; they denned in the
+breaks of the plains and it was then easiest to destroy them. They did
+such enormous damage amongst cattle that a reward of as high as thirty
+dollars per scalp was frequently offered for them, something less for
+the pups. The finding of a nest with a litter of perhaps six to eight
+young ones meant considerable money to the scalp-hunter. The wolves were
+plentiful and hunted in packs; and I have seen the interesting sight of
+a small bunch of mixed cattle rounded up and surrounded by a dozen of
+them, sitting coolly on their haunches till some unwary yearling left
+the protecting horns of its elders. Every time, when riding the range,
+that we spotted a lobo ropes were down at once and a more or less long
+chase ensued, the result depending much whether Mr Wolf had dined lately
+or not. But they were more addicted to horse and donkey flesh if
+obtainable. For purposes of poisoning them I used to buy donkeys at a
+dollar apiece and cut them up for bait. With hounds they gave good sport
+in a suitable country. But it is expensive work, as many dogs get
+killed, and no dog of any breed, unless maybe the greyhound, can or
+will singly and twice tackle a lobo wolf.
+
+In the springtime, when the calves are dropping pretty thick, it is
+exceedingly interesting to note the protective habits of the mother
+cows. For instance, when riding you will frequently come on a two or
+three days' old baby snugly hidden in a bunch of long grass while the
+mother has gone to water. When calves get a little older you may find at
+mid-day, out on the prairie, some mile or two from water, a bunch of
+maybe forty calves. Their mammies have gone to drink; but not all of
+them! No, never all of them at the same time. One cow is always left to
+guard the helpless calves, and carries out her trust faithfully until
+relieved. This was and is still a complete mystery to me. Does this
+individual cow select and appoint herself to the office; or is she
+balloted for, or how otherwise is the selection made?
+
+This might be another picture subject--the gallant cow on the defensive,
+even threatening and aggressive, and the many small helpless calves
+gathering hastily around her for protection. Her! The self-appointed
+mother of the brood.
+
+When branding calves, suppose you have 400 cows and calves in the
+corral. First all calves are separated into a smaller pen. Then the
+branding begins. But what an uproar of bellows and "baas" takes place!
+My calves were all so very like one another in colour and markings that
+one was hardly distinguishable from another. The mothers can only
+recognize their hopeful offspring by their scent and by their "baa,"
+although amongst 400 it must be rather a nice art to do so--400
+different and distinct scents and 400 differently-pitched baas.
+
+Among these notes I should not forget to mention a brush plant that
+grows on the southern plains. It is well named the "wait-a-bit" thorn.
+Its hooks or claws are sharper than a cat's, very strong and recurve on
+the stems: so that a man afoot cannot possibly advance through it, and
+even on a horse it will tear the trousers off you in a very few minutes.
+Is the name not appropriate?
+
+Nothing so far has been said on the subject of "hold-ups." Railway train
+hold-ups were a frequent occurrence, and were only undertaken by the
+most desperate of men. One celebrated gang, headed by the famous outlaw,
+Black Jack, operated mostly on a railway to the north of us and another
+railway to the south, the distance between being about 400 miles. Their
+line of travel between these two points was through Fort Sumner; and in
+our immediate neighbourhood they sometimes rested for a week or two,
+hiding out as it were, resting horses and laying plans. No doubt they
+cost us some calves for beef, though they were not the worst offenders.
+What annoyed me most was that Black Jack himself, when evading pursuit,
+raided my horse pasture one night, caught up the very best horse I ever
+owned, rode him fifty miles, and cut his throat.
+
+In New Mexico, where at first it seemed everybody's hand was against me,
+I was gratified to find that I had got a reputation as a fist-fighter,
+and as I never practised boxing in my life, never had the gloves on,
+never had a very serious fist fight with anyone, the idea of having such
+a reputation was too funny; but why should one voluntarily repudiate it?
+It was useful. The men had also somehow heard that I could hold a
+six-shooter pretty straight. Such a reputation was even more useful. I
+was not surprised therefore that a plan should be hatched to test my
+powers in that line. It came at the round-up dinner-hour on the
+Company's range (New Mexico). A small piece of board was nailed to a
+fence post and the boys began shooting at it. In a casual way someone
+asked me to try my hand. Knowing how much depended on it I got out my
+faithful old 45� six-shooter that I had carried for fifteen years, and
+taking quick aim, as much to my own surprise as to others', actually hit
+the centre of the mark! It was an extraordinarily good shot (could not
+do it again perhaps in twenty trials) but it saved my reputation. Of
+course no pressure could have persuaded me to fire again. That reminds
+me of another such occasion.
+
+Once when camped alone on the Reservation in Arizona, a party of
+officers from Camp Apache turned up. They had a bite to eat with me and
+the subject of shooting came up. Someone stuck an empty can in a tree at
+a considerable distance from us and they began shooting at it with
+carbines. When my turn came I pulled out the old 45� pistol and by lucky
+chance knocked the bottom out at the first shot. My visitors were amazed
+that a six-shooter had such power and could be used with such accuracy
+at that distance. In this case it was also a lucky shot; but constant
+practice at rabbits, prairie dogs and targets had made me fairly
+proficient. In New Mexico I had a cowboy working for me who was a
+perfect marvel, a "born" marksman such as now and then appears in the
+West. With a carbine he could keep a tin can rolling along the ground by
+hitting, never the can, but just immediately behind and under it with
+the greatest accuracy. If one tossed nickel pieces (size of a shilling)
+in succession in front of him he would hit almost without fail every one
+of them with his carbine--a bullet not shot! He left me to give
+exhibition shooting at the Chicago Exposition.
+
+On my ranch, at Running Water Draw, was unearthed during damming
+operations, a vast quantity of bones of prehistoric age; which calls for
+the remark that not only the horse but also the camel was at one time
+indigenous to North America.
+
+Nothing has been said yet about hail or lightning storms. Some of the
+latter were indescribably grand, when at night the whole firmament would
+be absolutely ablaze with flashes, sheets and waves so continuous as to
+be without interval. Once when lying on my bed on the open prairie such
+a storm came on. It opened with loud thunder and some brilliant flashes,
+then the rain came down and deluged us, the water running two inches
+deep over the grass; and when the rain ceased the wonderful electric
+storm as described continued for an hour longer. The danger was over;
+but the sight was awe-inspiring in the extreme. Night-herding too during
+such a storm was a strange experience. No difficulty to see the cattle;
+the whole herd stood with tails to the wind; the men lined out in front,
+each well covered by his oilskin slicker, and his horse's tail likewise
+turned to the storm; the whole outfit in review order so to speak, the
+sole object of the riders being to prevent the cattle from "drifting."
+This book contains no fiction or exaggeration; yet it will be hardly
+believed when I state that hail actually riddled the corrugated iron
+roof of my ranch house--new iron, not old or rusty stuff. The roof was
+afterwards absolutely useless as a protection against rain.
+
+Mirages in the hot dry weather were a daily occurrence. We did not see
+imaginary castles and cities turned upside down and all that sort of
+thing, but apparent lakes of water were often seen, so deceptive as to
+puzzle even the oldest plainsman. Cattle appeared as big as houses and
+mounted men as tall as church steeples.
+
+In all the vicious little cow-towns scattered about the country, whose
+attractions were gambling and "tarantula juice," there was always to be
+found a Jew trader running the chief and probably only store in the
+place. I have known such a man arrive in the country with a pack on his
+back who in comparatively few years would own half the county.
+
+What a remarkable people the Jews are! We find them all over the world
+(barring Scotland) successful in almost everything they undertake, a
+prolific race, and good citizens, yet carrying with them in very many
+cases the characteristics of selfishness, greed and ostentation.
+
+Something should be said about "classing" cattle. "Classing" means
+separating or counting the steers or she cattle of a herd into their
+ages as yearlings, "twos," "threes," etc. It used to be done in old
+days by simply stringing the herd out on the open plain and calling out
+and counting each animal as it passed a certain point. But later it
+became the custom to corral the herd and run them through a chute, where
+each individual could be carefully inspected and its age agreed on by
+both parties. Even that might not prove quite satisfactory, as will be
+shown in the following instance. I had sold to a certain gentleman (a
+Scotchman again), manager for two large cattle companies, a string of
+some 1000 steers, one, two and three years old. I drove them to his
+ranch, some 300 miles, and we began classing them on the prairie,
+cutting each class separately. It is difficult in many cases to judge a
+range steer's age. Generally it is or should be a case of give-and-take.
+But my gentleman was not satisfied and expressed his dissatisfaction in
+not very polite language. So to satisfy him I agreed to put them through
+the chute and "tooth" them, the teeth being an infallible test (or at
+least the accepted test) of an animal's age. To my surprise this man,
+the confident, trusted manager of long years' experience, could not tell
+a yearling from a "two" or a "two" from a "three," but sat on the fence
+and cussed, and allowed his foreman to do the classing for him.
+
+The Texas Cattlemen's Annual Convention was a most important event in
+our lives. It was held sometimes in El Paso, sometimes in San Antonio,
+but oftenest in Fort Worth, and was attended by ranchmen from all over
+the State, as well as by many from New Mexico, and by buyers from
+Wyoming, Montana, Nebraska, Kansas and elsewhere. Being held early in
+spring the sales then made generally set the prices for the year. Much
+dickering was gone through and many deals made, some of enormous extent.
+Individual sales of 2000, 5000 or even 10,000 steers were effected, and
+individual purchases of numbers up to 20,000 head; even whole herds of
+30,000 to 50,000 cattle were sometimes disposed of. It was a meeting
+where old friends and comrades, cattle kings and cowboys, their wives,
+children and sweethearts, met and had a glorious old time. It brought an
+immense amount of money into the place, and hence the strenuous efforts
+made by different towns (the saloons) "to get the Convention."
+
+Among the celebrities to be met there might be Buffalo Jones, a typical
+plainsman of the type of Buffalo Bill (Cody). Jones some years ago went
+far north to secure some young musk oxen. None had ever before been
+captured. He and his men endured great hardships and privations, but
+finally, by roping, secured about a dozen yearlings. The Indians swore
+that he should not take them out of their territory. On returning he
+had got as far as the very edge of the Indian country and was a very
+proud and well-pleased man. But that last fatal morning he woke up to
+find all the animals with their throats cut. Only last year Jones, with
+two New Mexican cowboys and a skilled photographer, formed the daring
+and apparently mad plan of going to Africa and roping and so capturing
+any wild animal they might come across, barring, of course, the
+elephant. His object was to secure for show purposes cinematograph
+pictures. He took some New Mexican cow-ponies out with him, and he and
+his men succeeded in all they undertook to do, capturing not only the
+less dangerous animals, such as antelope, buck and giraffe, but also a
+lioness and a rhinoceros, surely a very notable feat.
+
+Amarillo in the Panhandle was then purely a cattleman's town. It was a
+great shipping point--at one time the greatest in the world--and was
+becoming a railroad centre. I was there a good deal, and for amusement
+during the slack season went to work to fix up a polo ground. No one in
+the town had ever even seen the game played, so the work and expense all
+fell on myself. I was lucky to find a capital piece of ground close to
+the town, absolutely level and well grassed. After measuring and laying
+off, with a plough I ran furrows for boundary lines, stuck in the
+goalposts, filled up the dog-holes, etc., and there we were. At first
+only three or four men came forward, out of mere curiosity perhaps.
+After expounding the game and the rules, etc., as well as possible we
+started in to play. The game soon "caught on," and in a little while a
+number more joined, nearly all cattlemen and cowpunchers. They became
+keen and enthusiastic, too keen sometimes, for in their excitement they
+disregarded the rules. The horses, being cow-ponies, were of course as
+keen and as green as the players, and the game became a most dangerous
+one to take part in. Still we kept on, no one was very badly hurt, and
+we had lots of glorious gallops--fast games in fact.
+
+The word "polo" is derived from Tibetan pulu, meaning a knot of willow
+wood. In Cachar, and also at Amarillo, we used bamboo-root balls. The
+game originated in Persia, passed to Tibet, and thence to the
+Munipoories, and from the Munipoories the English learnt it. The first
+polo club ever organized was the Cachar Kangjai Club, founded in 1863.
+It may be remarked here that, hard as the riding is in polo, in my
+opinion it does not demand nearly such good riding as does the "cutting"
+of young steers. In polo your own eye is on the ball, and when another
+player or yourself hits it you know where to look for it, and rule your
+horse accordingly. In "cutting," on the other hand, your horse, if a
+good one, does nearly all the work; just show it the animal you want to
+take out and he will keep his eye on it and get it out of the herd
+without much guidance. But there is this great difference: you never can
+tell what a steer is going to do! You may be racing or "jumping" him out
+of the herd when he will suddenly flash round before you have time to
+think and break back again. Herein your horse is quicker than yourself,
+knowing apparently instinctively the intention of the rollicky
+youngster, so that both steer and your mount have wheeled before you are
+prepared for it. You must therefore try to be always prepared, sit very
+tight, and profit by past experiences. It is very hard work and, as said
+before, needs better horsemanship than polo. To watch, or better still
+to ride, a first-class cutting horse is a treat indeed.
+
+During these last few years of ranch life my leisure gave me time to
+make odd excursions here and there. Good shooting was to be had near
+Amarillo--any amount of bobwhite quail, quantities of prairie-chickens,
+plovers, etc. And, by-the-bye, at Fort Sumner I had all to myself the
+finest kind of sport. There was a broad avenue of large cotton-wood
+trees some miles in length. In the evening the doves, excellent eating,
+and, perhaps for that reason, tremendously fast fliers, would flash by
+in twos or threes up or down this avenue, going at railroad speed. But
+my pleasure was marred by having no companion to share the sport.
+
+Then I made many trips to the Rocky Mountains to fish for rainbow trout
+in such noble streams as the Rio Grande del Norte, the Gunnison, the
+Platte and others. In the early days these rivers were almost virgin
+streams, hotching with trout of all sizes up to twelve and even fifteen
+pounds. The monsters could seldom be tempted except with spoon or live
+bait, but trout up to six or seven pounds were common prizes. Out of a
+small, a ridiculously small, tributary of the Gunnison River I one day
+took more fish than I could carry home, each two to three pounds in
+weight. But that was murdering--mere massacre and not sport.
+
+During a cattle convention held at El Paso I first attended a bull-fight
+in Juarez and I have since seen others in the city of Mexico and
+elsewhere. The killing of the poor blindfolded horses is a loathsome,
+disgusting sight, and so affected me that I almost prayed that the
+gallant, handsome matadors would be killed. Indeed, at Mexico City, I
+afterwards saw Bombita, a celebrated Spanish matador, tossed and gored
+to death. The true ring-bull of fighting breed is a splendid animal;
+when enraged he does not seem to suffer much from the insertion of
+banderillas, etc., and his death stab is generally instantaneously
+fatal. Certainly the enthusiasm of the ring, the presence of Mexican
+belles and their cavalleros, the picturesqueness and novelty of the
+whole show are worth experiencing.
+
+It should be remembered that the red cloth waved in front of him is the
+main cause of Toro's irritation. Why it should so irritate him we don't
+know. When a picador and his horse are down they are absolutely at the
+mercy of the bull; and the onlooker naturally thinks that he will
+proceed to gore man and horse till they are absolutely destroyed. But
+the cloth being at once flaunted near him he immediately attacks it
+instead and is thus decoyed to another part of the ring. Thus, too, the
+apparent danger to the swordsman who delivers the _coup de gr�ce_ is not
+really very great if he show the necessary agility and watchfulness.
+When a bull charges he charges not his real enemy, but that exasperating
+red cloth; and the man has only to step a little to the side, but _still
+hold the cloth in front_ of the bull, to escape all danger. Without this
+protecting cloth no matador would dare to enter the ring. The
+banderilleros, too, thus escape danger because they do their work while
+the bull's whole attention is on the red cloth operated by another man
+in front. The man I saw gored, tossed and killed must have made some
+little miscalculation, or been careless, and stood not quite out of the
+bull's way, so that the terrible sharp horns caught him, as one may say,
+_by mistake_.
+
+The Mexicans, too, like my coolies in India, were great cock-fighters.
+It is a national sport and also a cruel one.
+
+Matadors are paid princely sums. The most efficient, the great stars,
+come from Spain. Many of them are extremely handsome men and their
+costume a handsome and picturesque one. As a mark of their profession
+they wear a small pigtail, not artificial but of their own growing hair.
+I travelled with one once but did not know it till he removed his hat.
+
+Denver and San Francisco were great centres of prize-fighting. In both
+places I saw many of the great ring men of the day, in fact never missed
+an opportunity of attending such meetings. It was mostly, however,
+"goes" between the "coming" men, such as Jim Corbett and other
+aspirants. A real champion fight between heavyweights I was never lucky
+enough to witness.
+
+Base-ball games always appealed to me, and to witness a first-class
+match only a very great distance would prevent my attendance. To
+appreciate the game one must thoroughly understand its thousand fine
+points. It absorbs the onlooker's interest as no other game can do.
+Every player must be constantly on the alert and must act on his own
+judgment. The winning or losing of the match may at any moment lie with
+him. The game only lasts some two hours; but for the onlookers every
+moment of these two hours is pregnant with interest and probably intense
+excitement. Here is no sleeping and dozing on the stands for hours at a
+time as witnessed at popular cricket matches. Time is too valuable in
+America for that, and men's brains are too restless. At a ball-game the
+sight of a man slumbering on the benches is inconceivable.
+
+Sea-fishing also attracted me very much. On the California coast, around
+Catalina and other islands, great sport is to be had among the
+yellow-tails, running up to 50 lbs. weight. They are a truly game fish
+and put up a capital fight. Jew-fish up to 400 lbs. are frequently
+caught with rod and line, but are distinctly not a game fish. Albacores
+can be taken in boat-loads; they are game enough but really too common.
+The tuna is _par excellence_ the game fish of the coast. At one time you
+might reasonably expect to get a fish (nothing under 100 lbs. counted),
+but lately, and while I was there, a capture was so rare as to make the
+game not worth the candle. A steam or motor launch is needed and that
+costs money. I hired such a boat once or twice; but the experience of
+some friends who had fished every day for two months and not got one
+single blessed tuna damped my ambition. Tunas there run up to 300 lbs.,
+big enough, and yet tiny compared with the monsters of the
+Mediterranean, the Morocco coast and the Japanese seas; there they run
+up to 2000 lbs. The tuna is called the "leaping" tuna because he plays
+and hunts his prey on the surface of the water; but he never "leaps" as
+does the tarpon. Once hooked he goes off to sea and will tow your boat
+maybe fifteen miles; that is to say, he partly tows the boat, but the
+heavy motor launch must also use its power to keep up or the line will
+at once be snapped. The tuna belongs to the mackerel family, is built
+like a white-head torpedo, and for gameness, speed and endurance is hard
+to beat. Only the pala of the South Pacific Seas, also a mackerel, may,
+according to Louis Becke, be his rival. Becke indeed claims it to be the
+gamest of all fish. But its manoeuvres are different from a tuna's and
+similar to those of the tarpon. What is finer sport, I think, and
+perhaps not quite so killing to the angler, is tarpon-fishing. Most of
+our ambitious tarpon fishers go to Florida, where each fish captured
+will probably cost you some fifty dollars. My tarpon ground was at
+Aransas Pass, on the Gulf Coast of Texas. There in September the fish
+seem to congregate preparatory to their migration south. I have seen
+them there in bunches of fifty to seventy, swimming about in shallow,
+clear water, their great dorsal fins sticking out, for all the world
+like a lot of sharks. My first experience on approaching in a small row
+boat such an accumulation of fish muscle, grit and power will never be
+forgotten. It was one of _the_ events of my chequered life. The boatman
+assured me I should get a "strike" of a certainty as soon as the bait
+was towed within sight of them. My state of excitement was so great that
+really all nerve force was gone. My muscles, instead of being tense and
+strong, seemed to be relaxed and feeble; my whole body was in a tremble.
+To see these monster fish of 150 to 200 lbs. swimming near by, and to
+know that next moment a tremendous rush and fight would begin, was to
+the novice almost a painful sensation. Not quite understanding the
+mechanism of the powerful reel and breaks, and being warned that thumbs
+or fingers had sometimes been almost torn off the hand, I grasped the
+rod very gingerly. But I need not say what my first fish or any
+particular fish did or what happened. I will only say that I got all I
+wanted--enough to wear me out physically till quite ready to be gaffed
+myself. It is tremendously hard work. To rest myself and vary the sport
+I would leave the tarpon and tackle the red-fish, an equally game and
+fighting fish, but much smaller, scaling about 15 to 20 lbs. There was a
+shoal of them visible, or at least a bunch of about 100, swimming right
+on the edge of the big breaking surf. Like the tarpon they thus keep
+close company on account of the sharks (supposition). It was dangerous
+and difficult to get the boat near enough to them; but when you did
+succeed there was invariably a rush for your bait and a game fight to
+follow. They are splendid chaps. Then I would return to the tarpon and
+have another battle royal; and so it went on. But sometimes you would
+hook a jack fish (game, and up to 25 lbs.), and sometimes get into a
+shark of very big proportions. Indeed, the sharks are a nuisance, and
+will sometimes cut your tarpon in two close to your boat, and they
+eagerly await the time when you land your fish and unhook him to turn
+him loose.
+
+Another noble fish, of which I was lucky enough to get several, was the
+king-fish, long, pike-shaped and silvery, a most beautiful creature, and
+probably the fastest fish that swims. I had not realized just how quick
+any fish could swim till I hooked one of these. He acts much as the
+tarpon does. But I have not yet told how the latter, the king of the
+herring race, does act. On being hooked he makes a powerful rush for a
+hundred yards or so; then he springs straight up high out of the water,
+as much as six to ten feet, shakes his head exactly as a terrier does
+with a rat, falls back to make another rush and another noble spring. He
+will make many springs before you dare take liberties and approach the
+landing shore. But the peculiarity of this fish is that his runs are not
+all in one direction. His second run may take quite a different line;
+and at any time he may run and spring into or over your boat. When two
+anglers have fish on at the same time, and in close neighbourhood, the
+excitement and fun are great. The tarpon's whole mouth, palate and jaws
+have not a suspicion of muscle or cartilage about them; all is solid
+bone, with only a few angles and corners where it is possible for the
+hook to take good hold. Unless the hook finds such a fold in the bones
+you are pretty sure to lose your fish--three out of four times. Probably
+by letting him gorge the bait you will get him all right, but it would
+entail killing him to get the hook out. In winter the tarpons go south,
+and perhaps the best place to fish them is at Tempico in Mexico. But let
+me strongly recommend Aransas Pass in September. There is good
+quail-shooting, rabbits, and thousands of water-fowl of every
+description; also a very fair little hotel where I happened to be almost
+the only visitor. At Catalina Islands, by the way, whose climate is
+absolutely delightful, where there are good hotels, and where the
+visitors pass the whole day in the water or on land in their
+bathing-suits, one can hire glass-bottom boats, whereby to view the
+wonderful and exquisitely beautiful flora of the sea, and watch the
+movements of the many brilliantly-coloured fish and other creatures that
+inhabit it. The extraordinary clearness of the water there is
+particularly favourable for the inspection of these fairy bowers. One
+day I determined to try for a Jew-fish, just to see how such a huge,
+ungainly monster would act. Anchoring, we threw the bait over, and in a
+short time I pulled in a rock cod of nearly 7 lbs. weight. My boatman
+coolly threw the still hooked fish overboard again, telling me it would
+be excellent bait for the big ones we were after. Well, I did not get
+the larger fish; but the sight on looking overboard into the depths was
+so astonishing as to be an ample reward for any other disappointment. On
+the surface was a dense shoal of small mullet or other fish; below them,
+six or eight feet, another shoal of an entirely different kind; below
+these another shoal of another kind, and so on as far down as the eye
+could penetrate. It was a most marvellous sight indeed, and showed what
+a teeming life these waters maintain. It seemed that a large fish had
+only to lie still with its huge mouth open, and close it every now and
+then when he felt hungry, to get a dinner or a luncheon fit for any
+fishy alderman. It must be a fine field for the naturalist, the
+ichthyologist, probably as fine as that round Bermudas' coral shores, as
+illustrated by the new aquarium at Hamilton. But I can hardly think that
+the fish of any other climate can compare for brilliancy of colouring
+and fantastic variety of shape with those captured on the Hawaiian coast
+and well displayed in the aquarium at Honolulu.
+
+I must not forget to mention that at Aransas Pass one may sometimes see
+very large whip or sting-rays. They may easily be harpooned, but the
+wonderful stories told me of their huge size (I really dare not give the
+dimensions), their power and ferocity, quite scared me off trying
+conclusions with them. There one may also capture blue-fish, white-fish,
+sheepheads and pompanos; all delicious, the pompanos being the most
+highly-prized and esteemed, and most expensive, of America's many fine
+table fishes. Order a pompano the first opportunity.
+
+Having already mentioned sharks, it may be stated here that one captured
+in a net on the California coast four years ago was authoritatively
+claimed to be the largest ever taken, yet his length was only some 36
+feet; although it is true that the _Challenger_ Expedition dredged up
+shark teeth so large that it was judged that the owner must have been
+80 to 90 feet long. The Greynurse shark of the South Seas is the most
+dreaded of all its tribe; it fears nothing but the Killer, a savage
+little whale which will attack and whip any shark living, and will not
+hesitate to tackle even a sperm whale. Shark stories are common and
+every traveller has many horrible ones to recount. Yet the greatest and
+best authorities assert that sharks are mere scavengers (as they are,
+and most useful ones) and will never attack an active man, or any man,
+unless he be in extremities--that is, dead, wounded or disabled; though,
+as among tigers, there probably are some man-eaters. A large
+still-standing reward has been offered for a fully-certified case of a
+shark voluntarily attacking a man, other than exceptions as above noted,
+and that reward has not yet been claimed. Whenever I hear a thrilling
+shark story I ask if the teller is prepared to swear to having himself
+witnessed the event; invariably the experience is passed on to someone
+else and the responsibility for the tale is laid on other shoulders. On
+a quite recent voyage a talkative passenger confidently stated having
+seen a shark 70 feet long. I ventured to measure out that distance on
+the ship's deck, and asked him and his credulous listeners to regard and
+consider it. It gained me an enemy for life.
+
+One of the most famous and historical sharks was San Jos� Joe, who
+haunted the harbour of Corinto, a small coast town in Salvador. Every
+ship that entered the harbour was sure to have some bloodthirsty fiend
+on board to empty his cartridges into this unfortunate creature.
+His carcass was reckoned to be as full of lead as a careful
+housewife's pin-cushion of pins. But all this battering had no effect
+on him. Finally, and after my own visit to that chief of all
+yellow-fever-stricken dens, a British gun-boat put a shell into Joe and
+blew him into smithereens. In many shark-infested waters, such as around
+Ocean Island, the natives swim fearlessly among them. This ocean island,
+by the way, is probably the most intrinsically valuable spot of land on
+earth, consisting of a solid mass of coral and phosphate. "Pelorus
+Jack," who gave so much interest to the Cook Channel in New Zealand, was
+not a shark.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+IN AMARILLO
+
+     Purchase of Lots--Building--Boosting a Town.
+
+
+Enough of odds and ends. To return to purely personal affairs. After
+selling the cattle and ranch the question at once came up--What now? I
+had enough to live on, but not enough to allow me to live quite as I
+wished, though never ambitious of great wealth. What had been looked
+forward to for many years was to have means enough to permit me to
+travel over the world; and at the same time to have my small capital
+invested in such a way as would secure not only as big a per cent.
+interest as possible, with due security, but also a large probability of
+unearned increment, so to speak; and above all to require little
+personal attention. Dozens of schemes presented themselves, many with
+most rosy outlooks. I was several times on the very verge of decision,
+and how easily and differently one's whole future may be affected!
+Perhaps by now a millionaire!--perhaps a pauper! At one time I was on
+the point of buying a cotton plantation in the South. The only obstacle
+was the shortage of convict labour! A convict negro _must_ work; the
+free negro won't. Finally I bought some city lots in the town of
+Amarillo--the most valuable lots I could find, right at the city's
+pulse, the centre of business; in my judgment they would in all
+probability always be at the centre, and that as the city grew so would
+their value grow, and thus the unearned increment would be secured. I
+bought these lots by sheer pressure; the owner did not want to sell, but
+I made him name his own price, and closed the deal, to his astonishment.
+It was a record price and secured me some ridicule. But the funniest
+part has to come. In a little while I became dissatisfied with my deal,
+and actually approached the seller and asked him if he would cancel it.
+He too had regretted parting with the property, and to my relief
+assented. Once more I spent nearly a year ranging about the whole
+western country, looking into different propositions, and again I came
+back to Amarillo, again was impressed with the desirability of the same
+lots, and actually demanded of the still more astonished owner if he
+would sell them to me. No! no! he did not want to part with them; and I
+knew he spoke the truth. Again I forced him, and so hard that at last he
+put on what he considered a prohibitory price, a much higher one than
+before asked, but I snapped him up at once. The news soon got all over
+town, it could not be kept quiet. Once more the supposed knowing ones
+and "cute" business men eyed me askance, and no doubt thought me a
+fool, or worse. Only one man approved of my action, but I valued his
+opinion more than that of all the rest. This deal again made a stir
+amongst the Real Estate offices, and lot values went soaring; and when I
+had erected a handsome business block on the property a regular "boom"
+set in. It gave the little town a lift and the people confidence. One
+man was good enough to tell me that I had more "nerve" than anyone he
+had ever met. Did he mean rashness? Well, my nerve simply came from
+realizing what a fine outlook lay before the town. It seemed to me to be
+bound to be a great distributing centre, also a railroad centre; that
+the illimitable acreage of plains-lands was bound in time to be settled
+on, and that thus the population would rapidly increase; which
+anticipations have happily come true. My whole capital, and more, was
+now sunk and disposed of. My mind at least in that respect was at rest;
+and it certainly looked as if the long-nursed scheme was about to be
+realized. In a few years the unearned increment was at least 100 per
+cent.; rents also went up surprisingly, and also, alas! the taxes.
+Unfortunately, within a year after completion of the building, and while
+I was in Caracas, Venezuela, an incendiary, a drunken gambler who had
+been running a "game" illicitly in one of the rooms, and who had been
+therefore turned out, deliberately used kerosene oil and set fire to the
+building. Result, a three-quarters' loss! Luckily I was well insured;
+even in the rentals, to the surprise of many people who had never heard
+of rental insurance before. The insurance settlement and payment was
+effected between myself and the agent in less than half an hour, and
+just as soon as I could get at it an architect was working on plans for
+a new structure. With the three months' loss on account of my absence,
+it was more than a year before the new building was ready for occupancy.
+It was, and is, a better-arranged and handsomer one than the old block,
+and its total rental is much greater. The town has grown very much and
+seems to be permanently established. The building, and my affairs, are
+entirely in the hands of a responsible agent; and I am free to go where
+inclination calls. Nothing shall be said about the worries, the delays,
+the wage disputes, the lawsuits, etc., seemingly always in attendance on
+the erection of any building. Well, it is over now, and too sickening to
+think about! Nor shall much be said about the frequent calls on the
+property-owner to subscribe, to "put up," for any bonus the city may
+have decided to offer to secure the placing in "oor toon" of a State
+Methodist College, a State Hospital, a State Federal Building; or to
+induce a new railroad to build in; not to mention the securing for your
+own particular district of the town the site of a new court-house, a
+new post-office, etc. etc. The enmity caused by this latter contest is
+always bitter. But always anything to boost the town! This little town
+actually last year paid a large sum to the champion motor-car racer of
+America to give an exhibition in Amarillo. Even a flying-machine meeting
+was consummated, one of the first in the whole West.
+
+In this plains country, such as surrounds Amarillo, during the land
+boom, immense tracts were bought by speculators, who then proceeded to
+dispose of it to farmers and small settlers. They do this on a
+methodical and grand scale. One such man chartered special trains to
+bring out from the middle States his proposed clients or victims. To
+meet the trains he owned as many as twenty-five motor-cars, in which at
+once on arrival these people were driven all over the property to make
+their selection.
+
+The first breaking of this prairie country is done with huge steam
+ploughs, having each twelve shares, so that the breaking is done very
+rapidly, the depth cultivated being only some two inches or three
+inches. The thick close sod folds over most beautifully and exactly, and
+it was always a fascinating sight, if a sad one, to watch this
+operation--the first opening up of this soil that had lain uncultivated
+for so many �ons of time. The seed may be simply scattered on the sod
+before the breaking, and often a splendid crop is thus obtained.
+Simplicity of culture, truly!
+
+[Illustration: BREAKING THE PRAIRIE.]
+
+[Illustration: FIRST CROP--MILO MAIZE.]
+
+Before leaving the United States of America a few notes about that
+country. Though as a rule physically unpicturesque, it has some great
+wonder-places and beauty spots, such as the Yosemite Valley, the Grand
+Ca�on of the Colorado, the Yellowstone Park, the Falls of Niagara, and
+the big trees of California, which trees it may be now remarked are
+conifers (Sequoia gigantea and Sequoia sempervirens), which attain a
+height of 400 feet. Sempervirens is so called because young trees
+develop from the roots of a destroyed parent.
+
+If the reader has never seen these enormous trees he cannot well
+appreciate their immense altitude and dimensions. Remember that our own
+tallest and noblest trees in England do not attain more than 100 feet or
+so in height; then try to imagine those having four times that height
+and stems or trunks proportionately huge. It is like comparing our
+five-storey buildings with the forty-storey buildings of New York, eight
+times their altitude.
+
+Yet these big trees are not so big as the gums of Australia; the
+Yellowstone Geysers are, or were, inferior to the like in New Zealand;
+and Niagara is surpassed by the Zambesi Falls, still more so by the
+waterfall in Paraguay, and infinitely so by the recently-discovered
+falls in British Guiana. The Guayra Falls, on the Paran� River, in
+Paraguay, though not so high in one leap as Niagara, have twice as great
+a bulk of water, which rushes through a gorge only 200 feet wide.
+
+Its cities, such as San Francisco, Chicago, St Louis, New Orleans and
+others, are not as a rule beautiful; even Washington, the capital, was a
+tremendous disappointment to my expectant gaze; though my judgment might
+possibly be affected by the following incident. While standing at the
+entrance of the extremely beautiful New Union Railway Station a cab
+drove up, out of which a woman stepped, followed by a man. He hurried
+after her, and right in front of me drew a pistol and shot her dead, and
+even again fired twice into her body as she lay on the ground. Then he
+quickly but coolly put the gun to his own head and killed himself.
+
+This city seems badly planned and some of its great federal buildings
+are monstrous. The Pennsylvania Avenue is an eyesore and a disgrace to
+the nation. Boston, I believe, is all that it should be. Denver is a
+delightful town. New York, incomparable for its fabulous wealth, its
+unequalled shops, its magnificently and boldly-conceived office
+buildings and apartment blocks, its palatial and perfectly-appointed
+hotels, its dirty and ill-paved streets, is the marvel of the age and is
+every year becoming more so. Its growth continues phenomenal. If not
+now it will soon be the pulse of the world.
+
+There is never occasion in American hotels, as there is in English, in
+my own experience, to order your table waiter to go and change his
+greasy, filthy coat or to clean his finger-nails! No, in the smallest
+country hotel in the United States the proprietor knows that his guests
+actually prefer a table servant to have clean hands, a clean coat, etc.,
+and waiters in restaurants are obliged to wear thin, light and noiseless
+boots or shoes, not clodhoppers.
+
+That phenomenon and much-criticized individual, the American child, is
+blessed with such bright intelligence that at the age of ten he or she
+is as companionable to the "grown-up" as the youth of twenty of other
+countries, and much more interesting.
+
+English people are inclined to think Americans brusque and even not very
+polite. Let me assure them that they are the politest of people, though
+happily not effusive. They are also the most sympathetic and, strange as
+it may appear, the most sentimental. Their sympathy I have tested and
+experienced. Their brusqueness may arise from the fact that they have no
+time to give to formalities. But a civil question will always be civilly
+answered, and answered intelligently. Nor are Americans toadies or
+snobs; they are independent, self-reliant and self-respecting people.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+FIRST TOUR ABROAD
+
+     Mexico--Guatemala--Salvador--Panama--Colombia--Venezuela--Jamaica
+     --Cuba--Fire in Amarillo--Rebuilding.
+
+
+Among the many long trips leisure has permitted, the first was a tour
+through Mexico, Guatemala and Salvador to Panama; thence through
+Colombia and Venezuela; Jamaica and Cuba; needless to say a most
+interesting tour.
+
+Mexico has a most delightful climate at any time of the year, except on
+the Gulf Coast, the Tierra Caliente, where the heat in summer is
+tropical and oppressive. She has many interesting and beautiful towns.
+The city itself is rapidly becoming a handsome one, indeed an imperial
+one. Accommodation for visitors, however, leaves much to be desired. The
+country's history is of course absorbingly interesting, and the many
+remains of Aztec and older origin appeal much to one's curiosity. There
+is a capital golf-course, a great bull-ring, and a pelota court. There
+is much wealth, and every evening a fine display of carriages and
+horses. The little dogs called Perros Chinos of Mexico, also "Pelon" or
+hairless, have absolutely no hair on the body. They are handsome,
+well-built little creatures, about the size of a small terrier. They are
+said to be identical with one of the Chinese edible dogs. Cortez found
+them in Mexico and Pizarro in Peru. How did they get there?
+Popocatepetl, a magnificent conical volcano, overlooks the city and
+plain. I tried to ascend it but a damaged ankle failed me. A trip to
+Oaxaca to see wonderful Mitla should not be missed. There also is the
+tree of Tuli, a cypress, said to measure 154 feet round its trunk. Also
+a trip to Orizaba city is equally interesting, if only for the view of
+the magnificent Pico de Orizaba, a gigantic and most beautiful cone
+18,000 feet high; but also for the beautiful scenery displayed in the
+descent from the high plateau of Mexico, a very sudden descent of
+several thousand feet in fifteen miles, with a railroad grade of one in
+fourteen, from a temperate climate at once into a tropical one. More
+than that, it leads you to the justly-celebrated little Hotel de France
+in Orizaba, the only good hotel in all Mexico.
+
+The imposing grandeur of a mountain peak depends of course greatly on
+its elevation above its base; for instance, Pike's peak, to the top of
+which I have been, is some 15,000 feet above sea-level, but only 8000
+above its base. The great peaks of the Andes likewise suffer, such as
+Volcan Misti at Arequipa, nearly 20,000 feet above the sea, but from its
+base only 12,000 feet. Then imagine Orizaba peak at once soaring 16,000
+feet above the city, not one of a chain or range, but proudly standing
+alone in her radiant beauty. From Orizaba I went on to Cordova, where it
+is the custom of the citizens of all ranks and ages to assemble in the
+evenings in the plaza to engage in the game of keeno or lotto. Many
+tables are laid out for the purpose. The prizes are small, but
+apparently enough to amuse the people. Of course I joined in the game,
+happened to be very successful, and as my winnings were turned over to
+some small boys, beautiful little black-eyed rascals, my seat was soon
+surrounded by a merry crowd and great was the fun. How beautiful and
+captivating are these Spanish and even Mestizo children, the boys even
+more so than their sisters. From this point I took train, over the
+worst-built and coggliest railroad track I ever travelled on, to the
+Isthmus of Tehuantepec, to see the famous Eads Route, over which he
+proposed to transport bodily, without breaking cargo, ocean-going
+sailing ships and steamers from the Gulf to the Pacific Ocean. Also to
+visit the Tehuana tribe of Indians, whose women have the reputation of
+being the finest-looking of native races in the Western world. They wear
+a most extraordinary and unique combined headdress and shawl. In the
+markets could certainly be seen wonderfully beautiful faces, quite
+beautiful enough to justify the claim mentioned. At Rincon is the
+starting-point of the projected and begun Pan-American railroad, which
+will eventually reach to Buenos Ayres. At Salina Cruz, the Pacific end
+of the isthmus, and I should think one of the windiest places on earth,
+perhaps beating even Amarillo, I met a young American millionaire, a
+charming man who had large interests in Guatemala. We sailed together
+from Salina Cruz on a small coasting steamer bound for Panama. Except
+only at Salina Cruz, where a terrific wind blows most of the year, the
+weather was calm, but the heat very great. Not even bed-sheets were
+provided, nor were they needed. Sailing by night we made some port and
+stopping-place every day. The view of the coast is most interesting. You
+are practically never out of sight of volcanoes, some of them of great
+height and many of them active. One particularly, Santa Maria, attracted
+our attention because of its erupting regularly at intervals of half an
+hour; regularly as your watch marked the stated period a great explosion
+occurred and a cloud of smoke, steam and dust was vomited out and
+floated away slowly landwards. In the clear calm air it was a
+magnificent spectacle and I never tired watching it. Another volcanic
+peak had recently been absolutely shattered, one whole side as it were
+blown off it. On arriving at San Jos�, the port of Guatemala city, we
+had a great reception, my friend being the owner of the railroad--the
+only railroad in this State. A special train took us up to the capital,
+splendidly-horsed carriages were put at our disposal, and we were
+banqueted and entertained at the Opera, my friend insisting that I
+should share in all this hospitality. The American minister joined our
+party and made himself agreeable and useful. Guatemala city was once the
+Paris of America, was rich, gay and prosperous; to-day it is--different,
+but still very interesting. You are there in a bygone world, an age of
+the past. Revolutions and inter-State wars have driven capital from the
+country; progress is at a standstill; confidence in anybody does not
+exist. As in the Central American States, "Ote toi de la que m'y mette"
+is on the standard of every ambitious general, colonel or politician. It
+is the direct cause of all the revolutions. At Corinto a lady, whom we
+became intimate with, landed for the professed purpose of "revoluting."
+Yet the country is a naturally rich one, having on the highlands a
+splendid temperate climate, and everywhere great mineral and
+agricultural resources. We were fortunate to see a parade of some of the
+State troops; and such a comical picture of military imbecility and
+inefficiency could surely not be found elsewhere. The officers swaggered
+in the gayest of uniforms; the men were shoeless, dirty and slovenly. On
+approaching the city one passes near by the famous volcanoes Fuego,
+Aqua and Picaya (14,000 feet), and mysterious Lake Anatitlan.
+
+A shooting-trip had been arranged for us: a steam launch on the lake,
+Indians as carriers, mules, etc. etc., but my friend declined for want
+of time. Among the fauna of the country are common and black jaguars,
+tapirs, manatees, peccaries, boas, cougars or pumas, and alligators.
+Also the quetzal, the imperial bird of the great Indian Quiche race, and
+the Trogan resplendens. Poinciana regia and P. pulcherrima are common
+garden shrubs or trees, but the finest Poinciana I ever saw was in
+Honolulu. Vampire bats are more common in Nicaragua, but also exist in
+Guatemala. They have very sharp incisors and bite cattle and horses on
+the back or withers, men on the toes if exposed, and roosters on the
+comb. They live in caves, and not as the large fruit bats of India,
+which repose head downwards, hanging from trees in great colonies.
+Vampires live on blood, having no teeth suitable for mastication.
+
+It is a strange fact that Germans, who now have the great bulk of the
+trade throughout Central America, are very unpopular. Nor are the
+Americans popular. "Los Americanos son Bestias," "Esos Hombres son
+Demonios" express the feeling.
+
+I was told that in Guatemala there exists a tribe of Indians which does
+not permit the use of alcoholic drink and actually pays the State
+compensation instead.
+
+Among other places we called at were Esquintla, Acajutla, and La
+Libertad, from which point we got a magnificent view of the Atatlan
+volcano in full activity; also at San Juan del Sur. From Leon, in
+Nicaragua, some fourteen active volcanoes can be seen. In Salvador only
+two of the eleven great volcanoes of the State are now "_vivo_," viz.,
+San Miguel and Izalco. The latter is called the Lighthouse of Salvador,
+because it explodes regularly every twenty minutes. The lesser living
+vents are called infernillos--little hells. Altogether it looks like
+Central America, as a whole, with its revolutions and its physical and
+political instability, must be a very big hell.
+
+Salvador, though the smallest of the Central American States, is the
+most prosperous, enterprising and densely-populated. She was the first
+to become independent and the first to defy the Church of Rome.
+
+It had been my intention to sail through Lake Nicaragua and down the
+river San Juan to San Juan del Norte. But accommodation at that port and
+steamer communication with Colon was so bad and irregular that the trip
+was regretfully abandoned, and I went on to Panama with my friend. This
+gentleman possessed a personal letter from President Roosevelt
+addressed to the canal officials, ordering (not begging) them to permit
+a full inspection of the works, and to tell the "truth and the whole
+truth." Consequently we saw the works under unusual and most favourable
+conditions. The Americans have made remarkable progress, assisted by
+their wonderful labour-saving appliances, chief among which are the
+100-ton shovels, the Lidgerwood car-unloaders, and the track-shifters.
+But chiefly, of course, by their sanitary methods, the protection
+afforded the employees against mosquitoes, and the abolition of mosquito
+conditions. The natives and negroes are immune to yellow fever, but not
+to malaria. As most of us know, Major Ross of the I.M.S., in 1896,
+proved the connection of malaria with the anopheles mosquito; and in
+1902 Mr Reed of the U.S. Health Commission tracked the yellow fever to
+the stegomyia mosquito. Yellow fever requires six days to develop. It
+should be noted that the stegomyia insect is common in India, but
+luckily has not yet been infected with the germ of yellow fever. And it
+may also be here mentioned that the connection between bubonic plague
+and rats, and the fleas that infest them, was discovered by the Japanese
+scientist, Kitasato.
+
+The history of the canal may be touched on, if only to show the American
+method of securing a desired object, certainly a quick, effective and,
+after all, the only practical method. The Panama railway was built by
+Americans in 1855 to meet the rush to California gold-fields. The De
+Lesseps Company bought the road for an enormous figure, and started the
+canal works, to be abandoned later on, but again taken up by a new
+French Company. In 1901 Uncle Sam got his "fine work" in when he bluffed
+the new French Panama Company into selling it to him for 40,000,000
+dollars, simply by threatening to adopt the Nicaragua route. Yet the
+Company's property was well worth the 100,000,000 dollars asked for it.
+To carry out the bluff, the Isthmian Canal Commission (U.S.) actually
+reported to Congress that the Nicaragua route was the most "practical
+and feasible" one, when it was well known to the Commission that the
+route was so impracticable as not to be worthy of consideration. At
+least common report had it so. In 1903 Colombia refused the United
+States offer to purchase the enlarged canal zone. At once Panama
+province seceded from the State, and sold the desired zone to the United
+States for 10,000,000 dollars, conditionally on the United States
+recognizing and guaranteeing the young Republic. The deal was cleverly
+arranged, and was again perhaps the only effective method to obtain
+possession.
+
+The tide at Panama measures 20 feet, at Colon only 2 feet. In 1905 the
+International Board of Consulting Engineers, summoned by President
+Roosevelt, recommended, by eight to five, a sea-level canal (two locks).
+But Congress adopted the minority's 85-feet-level plan (6 locks), with
+an immense dam at Gatun, which dam will not be founded on rock, but have
+a central puddled core extending 40 feet below the bottom of the lake,
+and sheet piling some 40 feet still deeper. At least that is as I then
+understood it.
+
+De Lesseps was not an engineer and knew little of science. His Company's
+failure was directly due to his ignorance and disregard of the advice of
+competent men.
+
+Manual labour on the canal has been done mostly by Jamaica negroes. As
+said before, they are immune to yellow fever; and, speaking of the
+negro, it may be said here that his susceptibility to pain, compared to
+that of the white man, is as one to three, but the effect of a fair
+education is to increase it by one-third. What then is that of the
+monkey, the bird, the reptile or the fish? May I dare the statement,
+though most of us perhaps know it, that the sensitiveness of woman to
+that of man is as fifty-three to sixty-four. Even the woman's sense of
+touch, as in the finger-tips, being twice as obtuse as man's. The
+Bouquet D'Afrique, of course, is perceptible to us and offensive, but it
+is said that to the Indians of South America both black and white men
+are in this respect offensive. The "Foetor Judaiicus" must be noticeable
+also to have deserved the term.
+
+But this is sad wandering from the subject in hand and not exactly
+"reminiscences." I only hope that this and other departures, necessary
+for stuffing purposes, may be excused, especially as they are probably
+the most entertaining part of the book.
+
+To return to the town of Panama. In the bay and amongst the islands were
+quite a number of whales and flocks of pelicans. More curious to observe
+was an enormous number of small reddish-brown-coloured snakes, swimming
+freely on the surface of the sea, yet not seemingly heading in any
+particular direction. I could get no information regarding them. The
+famous Pearl Islands lie forty miles off Panama. The pearls are large
+and lustrous.
+
+On reaching harbour the health officials came on board, and to my
+surprise selected me alone among the passengers for quarantine. The
+explanation was that I had gone ashore at Corinto. So I was ordered to
+take up my abode during the period of incubation in the detention house,
+a building in an isolated position; there I was instructed, much to my
+relief, that I might go to town or anywhere else during daylight, but
+must, under severe penalty, be back and inside the protecting screens
+before the mosquitoes got to work. The object was that no mosquito after
+biting me should be able to bite anyone else. We had been some two and a
+half days out of Corinto, so my period of detention was not of long
+duration. I also got infinitely better messing than any hotel in Panama
+afforded.
+
+The seas on either side of Darien Isthmus were at one time the scene of
+the many brave but often cruel deeds of the great adventurers and
+explorers like Drake, buccaneers like Morgan, pirates like Kidd and
+Wallace. Morgan, a Welshman, sacked and destroyed old Panama, a rich and
+palatial city, in 1670. He also captured the strong fortress town, Porto
+Bello. Drake captured the rich and important Cartagena. Captain Kidd,
+native of Greenock, was commissioned by George III. to stamp out piracy,
+but turned pirate himself and became the greatest of them all.
+
+It had been my intention to sail from Panama to Guayaquil, cross the
+Andes, and take canoe and steamer down the Amazon to Para. But the
+reports of yellow fever at Guayaquil, the unfinished state of the Quito
+railroad, and the disturbed state of the Trans-Andean Indians, through
+whose country there would be a week's mule ride, decided me to alter my
+plans once more. So, bidding good-bye to my very kind New York friend,
+who went home direct, I myself took steamer for a Colombian port and
+thence trained to Baranquillo, a considerable town on the Magdalena
+River. It was a novel experience to there find oneself a real live
+millionaire! The Colombian paper dollar (no coin used) was worth just
+the hundredth part of a gold dollar; so that a penny street car ride
+cost the alarming sum of five dollars, and dinner a perfectly fabulous
+amount. By Royal Mail steamer the next move was to La Guayra, the
+seaport of Caracas, a most romantic-looking place, where the mountains,
+some 9000 feet high, descend almost precipitously to the sea. There we
+saw the castle where Kingsley's Rose of Devon was imprisoned. At that
+time President Castro was so defying France that war and a French fleet
+were expected every day. Consequently his orders were that no one
+whomsoever should be allowed to enter the country. All the passengers of
+course, and for that very reason perhaps, were hoping to be allowed to
+land, if only to make the short run up to the capital and back. At
+Colon, assisted by my American friend and the United States consul, we
+"worked" the Venezuela Consul into giving me a passport (how it was done
+does not matter), which at La Guayra I, of course, produced. Of no
+avail! No one must land. But just when the steamer was about to sail a
+boat full of officials appeared at the steamer's side, called out my
+name, and lo! to the wonder of the other passengers, I was allowed to go
+ashore. This was satisfactory, and I at once took train to the capital,
+climbing or soaring as in a flying-machine the steep graded but
+excellent road (most picturesque) to Caracas. There I found that the
+Mardi Gras Carnival was just beginning. In my hotel was the war
+correspondent of the _New York Herald_, just convalescing from an attack
+of yellow fever and still incapable of active work. He was good enough
+to ask me to fill his place should hostilities ensue. No other
+correspondent was in the country and he himself had to put up a 10,000
+dollar bond. I willingly agreed, and so stayed nearly two weeks in
+Caracas awaiting eventualities. During this time, owing to the Carnival,
+the town was "wide open"; every night some twenty thousand people danced
+in the Plaza Bolivar, a huge square beautifully paved with tiling. The
+dancers were so crowded together that waltzing simply meant revolving
+top-wise. A really splendid band provided the music. What a gay, merry
+people they are! And how beautiful these Venezuela women, and how
+handsome the men! In the streets presents of great value were tossed
+from the carriages to the signoras on the balconies. At a ball the men,
+the fashionables, wore blue velvet coats, not because of the season, but
+because it is the customary male festive attire. Caracas was delightful
+and extraordinarily interesting. What splendid saddle mules one here
+sees! Castro every day appeared with his staff all mounted on mules. All
+the traffic of the country is done with them, there being no feasible
+wagon roads. Castro had a most evil reputation. The people hated but
+feared him. His whole army consisted of Andean Indians, and he himself
+had Indian blood in his veins. The climate at Caracas is delightful.
+After two weeks and nothing developing, and not feeling quite well, I
+returned to La Guayra and took steamer back to Colon. Feeling worse on
+the steamer I called in the doctor, and was greatly alarmed when he
+pronounced yellow fever. On arriving at Colon, of course, I was not
+permitted to land so had to continue on the ship to Jamaica. The attack
+must have been a very mild one, as when we reached Jamaica I was nearly
+all right again.
+
+Jamaica is a beautiful island with a delightful winter climate. Also
+very good roads. Among other places visited was Constant Spring Hotel,
+once the plantation residence and property of one of my uncles. At Port
+Antonio, on the north side of the island, is a very fine up-to-date
+American hotel, which of course was greatly appreciated after the vile
+caravanserais of Central America. Thence on to Cuba, the steamer passing
+through the famous narrows leading to Santiago. A pleasant daylight
+railroad run through the whole island brought me to the great city of
+Havana, not, as it appeared to me, a handsome or attractive city, but
+possessing a good climate and a polite and agreeable population. The
+principal shopping street in Havana is so narrow that awnings can be,
+and are, stretched completely across it. In the centre of the harbour
+was visible the wreck of the United States battleship _Maine_. Here in
+Havana, on calling at the Consulate for letters, or rather for
+cablegrams, as I had instructed my Amarillo agent not to write but to
+cable, and only in the case of urgent consequence, I found a message
+awaiting me. No need to open it therefore to know the contents! Yes, my
+building had been burnt to the ground two months ago. A cable to Caracas
+had not been delivered to me. So, back to Amarillo to view the ruins. In
+the United States of America one cannot insure for the full value of a
+building; or at least only three-quarters can be recovered. So my loss
+amounted to 8000 or 10,000 dollars. But no need of repining, and time is
+money, especially in such a case. So a new building was at once started,
+rushed and completed, in almost record time.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+SECOND TOUR ABROAD
+
+     Bermudas--Switzerland--Italy--Monte
+     Carlo--Algiers--Morocco--Spain--Biarritz and Pau.
+
+
+In November 1907 I again left Amarillo bound for Panama and the Andes.
+But the only steamer offering from New Orleans was so small, and the
+messing arrangements so primitive, that I abandoned the idea, railed to
+New York, saw a steamer starting for the Bermudas and joined her. For
+honeymoon and other trips the Bermudas are a favourite resort of New
+Yorkers. Fourteen honeymoon couples were reckoned to be on board. The
+climate of these islands is very delightful. The hotels are quite good;
+English society pretty much confined to the Army and Navy; two
+golf-courses; the best of bathing, boating and sea-fishing. The Marine
+Aquarium is most interesting. The roads are good and not a motor-car in
+the land!
+
+The islands are composed solely of coralline limestone. It can be
+quarried almost anywhere. Blasting is not necessary, the stone being so
+soft that it can be sawn out in blocks of any size to meet the
+architect's needs. It is beautifully white and hardens after exposure.
+
+After staying two weeks I returned to New York and took passage to
+Cherbourg, crossed France to Lausanne, saw some friends and then went on
+to St Moritz, which we all know is so famous for its wonderful winter
+climate, intensely cold but clear skies and bright sunshine. Curling,
+hockey, skiing, tobogganing and bobbing were in full swing; the splendid
+hotels crowded; dinners and dances every day. A very jolly place indeed.
+After ten days' stay a sledge took me over the mountains to Chiavenna,
+thence steamer over the lake to Como, and train to Milan. It was very
+cold and foggy there, but the city is a handsome one; I saw the
+Cathedral, the arcade, etc., and visited the famous Scala Opera House
+and its wonderful ballet. Thence to Genoa--very cold--and on to Monte
+Carlo, at once entering a balmy, delicious climate. The season was just
+beginning, but the play-rooms were pretty full. With its splendid shops,
+fine hotels, gardens, Casino, pigeon-shooting, etc. etc., Monte Carlo is
+unrivalled. It is distinctly a place to wear "clothes," and the women's
+costumes in the play-rooms and Casino are enough to make the marrying
+man think twice.
+
+After visiting Monaco, Nice and Cannes, at Marseilles I took steamer to
+Algiers. Barring its agreeable winter climate there is not much
+attraction there. Here I was told that the marriageable Jewess is kept
+in a dark room, fed on rich foods and allowed no exercise; treated, in
+fact, as a goose for a fat liver.
+
+So I went on to Blida, where is a French Army Remount Depot. A large
+number of beautiful Arab horses were being inspected and shown by their
+picturesque owners. They were not the type for cow-ponies and seemed a
+bit light for cavalry purposes. From Blida I went by train to Oran, a
+considerable port in Algiers. There was nothing particular to see or do
+except visit a certain Morocco chief who had started the late troubles
+at Fez and was here in durance vile (chains). Among the few tourists I
+met a Hungarian and his English wife and we became fairly intimate. His
+wife told me he was the dread of her life, being scorching mad on
+motor-cars. It happened there was one and only one car in the town for
+hire, and the Baron must needs hire it and invite me, with his wife, to
+a trip up a certain hill or mountain overlooking the city. A holy man,
+or marabout, denned on the top and we must pay our respects. The road
+proved to be exceedingly steep, and zigzagged in a remarkable way, with
+very sharp, angular turns. No car had ever been up it, and few
+carriages. We reached the top in due time, saluted the old man and
+started back. My friend was at the wheel and did a few turns all right,
+till we came to a straight shoot, very narrow, a ditch on one side,
+trees on the other, and just here the brake refused to work. Reaching
+over I touched his shoulder and suggested that he should go slower. No
+reply; he was speechless, and we knew at once that he had lost control,
+and realized our horrible position. On we rushed, he guiding it straight
+all right, till we approached the bend, the worst on the road, and quite
+impossible to manipulate at great speed. Right in front was an unguarded
+cliff, with a drop of 500 feet over practically a precipice. But--well,
+there was no "terrible accident" to be reported. Most fortunately a pile
+of rocks had been accumulated for the purpose of building a parapet
+wall, and on to the top of this pile the car jumped and lodged, without
+even turning over. The jar and shock were bad enough, but no one was
+much hurt. It reminded me of another occasion when I got a jar of a
+different kind. Once, after playing golf with a man in America, he
+offered to drive me to town in his motor-car. Knowing him to be a
+scorcher I excused myself by saying that I was not ready to go. He
+started; very soon afterwards word came back that he had run into a
+telegraph post and killed himself and his driver. Such things tend to
+cool one's motor ambition.
+
+At Oran I boarded a small French steamer for Mellilla, in Spanish
+Morocco, a Spanish convict station and a considerable military post.
+This was just before Spain's recent Riff Campaign. The table fare on
+the steamer was not British! Cuttle-fish soup or stew was prominent on
+the bill; a huge dish of snails was always much in demand, and the other
+delicacies were not tempting, to me at least. Eggs, always eggs! How
+often in one's travels does one have to resort to them. In Mellilla
+itself there was no hotel. We messed at the strangest restaurant it was
+ever my ill-luck to enter. The troops reminded me somewhat of those of
+Guatemala, slovenly, slouching, and poorly dressed. Their officers were
+splendid in gold braid, feathers and gaudy uniforms. Around the town
+were circular block-houses, beyond which even then no one was allowed to
+go. Indeed, mounted tribesmen could be seen sometimes riding up to the
+line and flourishing their guns in apparent defiance. Curiosity made me
+venture forward till warned back by the guard. These Riffians were
+certainly picturesque-looking rascals. Mellilla was then not on the
+tourist's track, so was all the more interesting and novel.
+
+From there by steamer to Gibraltar, stopping at Ceuta on the way. At
+Gibraltar a friend, Capt. B----, took me all over the rock, the
+galleries, and certain fortifications. A meeting of hounds near
+Algeciras was attended. Thence by train to Granada to visit the
+marvellously lovely Alhambra, and of course to meet the King of the
+Gipsies; Ronda, romantic and picturesque; Cordova and its immense
+mosque and old Roman bridge; and so on to Madrid by a most comfortable
+and fast train; but the temperature all through Central Spain is
+extremely cold in winter. The country is inhospitable-looking, and the
+natives seem to have abandoned their picturesque national dress. One
+must now go to Mexico to see the cavalier in his gay and handsome
+costume. In Madrid I of course visited the splendid Armoury; also the
+National Art Gallery with its Velasquezs and Murillos. From Madrid to
+San Sebastian, the season not yet begun, and Biarritz. Here I spent a
+most enjoyable month: dry, bracing climate, good golf-course, good
+hotels, etc. It was the English season; the Spanish season being in
+summer. On King Edward's arrival with his entourage and fashionable
+followers golf became impossible, so I went on to Pau and played there.
+From Pau a short run took me to Lourdes, with its grotto, chapel, etc.
+From Pau to Bordeaux, a handsome, busy town. Then Paris and home.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+THIRD TOUR ABROAD
+
+     Salt Lake City--Canada--Vancouver--Hawaii--Fiji--Australia--New
+     Zealand--Tasmania--Summer at Home.
+
+
+The fall of 1908 saw me off on a tour which finally took me round the
+world. Space will only permit of its itinerary and a few of my
+impressions and experiences. From Amarillo I trained north to Salt Lake
+City, passing through the wonderful gorge of the Arkansas River and the
+ca�on of the Grand; scenery extremely wild and impressive. At Salt Lake
+found a large, busy, up-to-date city. Visited the tabernacle, and heard
+the great organ, the largest in the world; and a very fine choir. The
+acoustics of this immense and peculiarly-shaped building are most
+perfect. The Temple Gentiles are not allowed to enter. Outside the
+irrigation limits the country has a most desolate, desert, hopeless
+aspect. What nerve the Mormons had to penetrate to such a spot.[3]
+
+[Footnote 3: _See_ Appendix.]
+
+It may be noted here that one Sidney Rigdon was the compiling genius of
+Mormonism; and it was he who concocted the Mormon Bible, not Joe Smith.
+And what a concoction! No greater fraud was ever perpetrated.
+
+Hence by Butte, Montana, the great copper-mining city, to Great Falls,
+where we crossed the Missouri River, there 4000 miles from the sea, yet
+twice as large as the Thames at Windsor. On entering Canadian territory
+a remarkable change in the character of the people, the towns and the
+Press was at once noticeable. From Calgary by the C.P.R. the trip
+through the Selkirk range to Vancouver was one of continuous wonder and
+delight--noble peaks, dense pine forests, rushing rivers and peaceful
+lakes. Arrived at Vancouver city, a city of illimitable ambition and
+bright prospects. I there met in the lobby of the hotel two very old
+friends whom I had not seen for many years. They dined with me, or
+rather wined and dined, and we afterwards spent a probably uproarious
+evening. I say probably, because the end was never evident to me till I
+woke up in my bed, whither someone had carried me, with my stockinged
+foot burning in a candle; another such illuminant had been lighted and
+placed at my head. My waking (and I was "waked" in two senses)
+endangered, and at the same time prevented, the probable burning down of
+the building. Next morning I was taken suddenly ill, but not due to the
+evening's carousal, so went across the bay to Victoria and hunted up a
+doctor, who immediately ordered me into hospital (the Victoria Jubilee)
+and operated on me the very same day. The operation was the most painful
+that I have ever undergone but was entirely successful, though it
+detained me in the hospital for over a month.
+
+From Victoria I trained to San Francisco, passing through lovely
+Washington and Oregon States, and Northern California; and from San
+Francisco took steamer to Honolulu. San Francisco was rising from its
+ashes, but still presented a terrible aspect, and gave a good idea of
+how appalling the catastrophe must have been. At Honolulu I spent a most
+enjoyable two weeks, golfing a little, surf riding, etc. The climate is
+ideal, hotels are good, parts of the islands lovely. They are all
+volcanic, and indeed some are nothing but an agglomeration of defunct
+craters.
+
+On one of the islands, Maui, is the largest crater on earth (unless
+perhaps a certain one in Japan), its dimensions being 2000 feet in
+depth, eight miles wide, and situated on the top of a mountain,
+Haleakala, 10,000 feet high. Its surface, seen from the rock-rim,
+exactly resembles that of the moon. I of course also visited the largest
+island of the group--Hawaii--passing _en route_ Molokai, the leper
+settlement. Hawaii has two very high volcanic mountains, Mauna Kea and
+Mauna Loa, some 13,000 feet. The land is very prolific, the soil
+consisting of pulverized lava and volcanic dust, whose extreme
+fertility is due to a triple proportion of phosphates and nitrogen. On
+the slope of Mauna Loa is the crater of Kilauea, and in its centre the
+"pit," called Haleamaumau, the most awe-inspiring and in other ways the
+most remarkable volcano in the world. Landing at Hilo, by train and
+stage we went to see it. My visit was made at night when the
+illumination is greatest. Traversing the huge crater, four miles in
+diameter, the surface devoid of all vegetation, seamed and cracked, and
+in places steam issuing from great fissures, we suddenly arrived at the
+brink of the famous pit, and what an astonishing sight met our gaze! The
+sheer walls of the circular pit were some 200 feet deep: the diameter of
+the pit one quarter of a mile: the contents a mass of (not boiling, for
+what could the temperature be!) restless, seething, molten, red-hot
+lava, rising from the centre and spreading to the sides, where its waves
+broke against the walls like ocean billows, being a most brilliant red
+in colour! Flames and yet not flames. Now and then geysers of fire would
+burst through the surface, shoot into the air and fall back again. The
+sight was to some people too awful for prolonged contemplation, myself
+feeling relieved as from a threat when returning to the hotel, but still
+with a desire to go back and again gaze into that awful maelstrom. The
+surface of the pit is not stationary, at one time being, as then, sunk
+200 feet; another time flush with the brim and threatening destruction;
+and again almost disappearing out of sight. At any time and in whatever
+condition it is an appalling spectacle and one never to be forgotten.
+
+Sugar and pineapples are the main products of the islands; but one
+should not miss visiting the aquarium at Honolulu to see the collection
+of beautiful and even comical-looking native fishes; some of extravagant
+colouring, brilliant as humming-birds, gay as butterflies; of shapes
+unsuspected, and in some cases indescribable, having neither length nor
+breadth, depth nor thickness; hard to distinguish head from tail, upside
+from underside; speed being apparently the least desirable of
+characteristics. Do they depend for protection and safety on their
+grotesque appearance? or do their gaudy robes disarm and enchant their
+ferocious and cannibalistic brethren?
+
+One of the funniest sights I ever saw was a base-ball game played here
+between Chinese and Japanese youngsters. What a commanding position
+these islands occupy in ocean navigation, as a coaling or naval station,
+or as a distributing point. America was quick to realize this; and now
+splendid harbours and docks are being constructed, and the place
+strongly fortified so as to rival Gibraltar.
+
+In January 1909 I joined the new and delightful New Zealand Steamship
+Company's steamer _Makura_ bound for Sydney. On board was, amongst a
+very agreeable company, a gentleman bound for New Zealand on a
+fishing-trip, who told me such marvellous tales of his fishing prowess
+in Scotland that I put him down for one of the biggest liars on earth.
+More of him afterwards. Also on board was a young English peer, Earl
+S----, a very agreeable man, whose company I continued to enjoy for the
+greater part of this tour. We had a delightful passage, marred for me,
+however, by a severe attack of neuritis, which continued for three solid
+months, the best doctors in Sydney and Melbourne failing to give relief.
+Our ship first called at Fanning Island, a cable station (delivering
+four months' mail), a mere coral atoll with its central lagoon, fringe
+of cocoanut trees and reef. The heavy swell breaking on the reef, and
+the wonderful blue of the water, the peaceful lagoon, the bright, clear
+sky, and the cocoanut trees, formed a picture never to be forgotten. A
+picture typical of all the many thousands of such Pacific islets. After
+passing the Union and Wallace groups we crossed the 180� meridian, and
+so lost a day, Sunday being no Sunday but Monday. Then arrived at Suva,
+Fiji Islands. The rainy season having just begun it was very hot and
+disagreeable. The Fijians are Papuans, but tall and not bad-looking.
+Maoris, Hawaiians and Samoans are Polynesians, a much handsomer race.
+The Fijians were remarkable for their quick conversion to devout
+Christianity. So late as 1870 cannibalism was general. Prisoners were
+deliberately fattened to kill. The dead were even dug up when in such a
+condition that only puddings could be made of them. Limbs were cut off
+living victims and cooked in their presence; and even more horrible acts
+were committed. The islands are volcanic, mountainous, and covered by
+forests.
+
+Our visit was about the time of the Balolo worm season. The Balolo worm
+appears on the coast punctually twice a year, once in October (the
+Little Balolo) and once about the 20th November (the Great Balolo). They
+rise to the sea surface in writhing masses, only stay twelve hours and
+are gone. The natives make a great feast of them. The worm measures 2
+ins. to 2 ft. long, is thin as vermicelli and has many legs. Never is a
+single worm seen at any other time.
+
+Leaving Fiji, we passed the Isle of Pines, called at Brisbane, and
+arrived at Sydney on the 25th November. Of the beauties and advantages
+of Sydney Harbour we have all heard, and I can only endorse the glowing
+descriptions of other writers. Hotels in Australia and New Zealand are
+very poor, barring perhaps one in Sydney and a small one in Melbourne. A
+great cricket match was "on"--Victoria versus New South Wales--so I must
+needs go to see, not so much the game itself as the very famous club
+ground, said to be the finest in the world. In the Botanical Gardens,
+near a certain tree, the familiar, and I thought the unmistakable, odour
+of a skunk was most perceptible. Hailing a gardener and drawing his
+attention to it, he replied that the smell came from the tree ("malotus"
+he called it), but the crushed leaves, the bark and the blossom
+certainly gave no sign of it and I remained mystified. Fruit of many
+kinds is cheap, abundant and good. Sydney is not a prohibition town! Far
+from it. Drink conditions are as bad as in Scotland. Many of the people,
+especially from the country, have a pure Cockney accent and drop their
+h's freely; indeed I met boys and girls born in the colony, and never
+out of it, whose Cockney pronunciation was quite comical. It struck me
+that Australians and New Zealanders are certainly not noted for
+strenuousness.
+
+Of course the tourist must see the Blue Mountains, and my trip there was
+enjoyable enough, I being greatly impressed with the Leura and other
+waterfalls (not as falls) and the wonderful and beautiful caves of
+Janolan. Wild wallabies were plentiful round about, and the "laughing
+jackass" first made himself known to me.
+
+February 2nd.--S---- and myself took passage to New Zealand, the
+fish-story man being again a fellow-traveller. During the crossing
+numerous albatrosses were seen. In New Zealand we visited all the great
+towns, Wellington, Auckland, Christchurch, Dunedin and others, all of
+them pleasant, agreeable places, Christchurch being especially
+attractive. What a grand, healthy, well-fed and physically fit-looking
+people the New Zealanders are. Scotch blood predominates, and really
+there is a great similarity between the two peoples. At Rotorua we met
+the Premier and other celebrities, S---- being very interested in
+Colonial politics. Rotorua is a very charming place; I did some fishing
+in the lake, where trout were so numerous that it was not much sport
+catching them. Illness unfortunately prevented my going further afield
+and fishing for larger trout in the rivers. A Colonel M---- and sister
+who were in New Zealand at that time claimed to have beaten the record,
+their catch averaging over 20 lbs. per fish (rainbows), as they told me
+on again meeting them in the Hebrides. We did the Wanganui River of
+course; and the geysers at Whakarewarewa, under the charge of Maggie,
+the Maori guide.
+
+As you no doubt are aware, the Maori fashion of salutation is to rub
+noses together. As long as they are pretty noses there cannot be much
+objection; but some of the Maori girls are themselves so pretty that
+mere rubbing is apt to degenerate and one's nose is liable to slip out
+of place. Maggie, the Maori guide, a very pretty woman and now at
+Shepherd's Bush, can tell all about it and even give a demonstration.
+
+Here in Whakarewarewa one is impressed with the fact that this little
+settlement is built on what is a mere shallow crust, under which, at the
+depth of only a few feet, is a vast region of boiling mud and water.
+Everywhere around are bubbling and spluttering mud-wells, some in the
+form of miniature geysers; steam is issuing everywhere from clefts and
+crannies in the ground; and one almost expects a general upheaval or
+sinking of the whole surface. The principal geyser was not and had not
+been for some weeks in action. It can be forced into action, however, by
+the singular method of dropping a bar of soap down the orifice, when a
+tremendous rush of steam and water is vomited out with terrific force.
+Sir Joseph Ward, the Premier, is the only person authorized to permit
+this operation: but though he was at our hotel, and we were personally
+intimate with him, he declined to favour us with the permission, it
+being explained that the too-frequent dosing of the geyser had seemed to
+have a relaxing effect on the activity.
+
+At Dunedin S---- left me to visit Milford Sound. Too unwell to accompany
+him, I continued on to the Bluff and then took steamer to Hobart,
+Tasmania. New Zealand has a great whale-fishery and it was my hope to
+see something of it by a short trip on one of the ships employed; but
+the opportunity did not present itself.
+
+May I here offer a few notes picked up on the subject of whales, etc.
+The sperm or cachalot whale is a dangerous and bold fighter and is
+perhaps the most interesting of all cetaceans. His skin, like that of
+the porpoise, is as thin as gold-beaters' leaf. Underneath it is a
+coating of fine hair or fur, not attached to the skin, and then the
+blubber. He has enormous teeth or tushes in the lower jaw, but has no
+baleen. He devours very large fish, even sharks, but his principal food
+seems to be cuttle-fish and squids, some of them of as great bulk as
+himself. These cuttle-fish's tentacle discs are as big as soup-plates,
+and surrounded by hooks as large and sharp as tiger claws; while their
+mouths are armed with a parrot-like beak capable of rending anything
+held to them by the tentacles. These disc hooks are often found in
+ambergris, an excretion of the sperm whale. The sperm whale spouts
+diagonally, other whales upwards. So-called porpoise leather is made of
+the skin of the white whale. The porpoise is the true dolphin, the
+sailor's dolphin being a fish with vertical tail, scales and gills.
+Bonitoes are a species of mackerel, but warm-blooded and having
+beef-like flesh.
+
+Near Hobart I saw the famous fruit and hop lands on the Derwent River.
+It was midsummer here and extremely hot, hotter than in Melbourne or
+anywhere else on this trip. From Hobart I railed to Launceston and
+thence steamer to Melbourne.
+
+Melbourne is a very handsome city as we all know. It was my hope to
+continue on with S---- north by the Barrier Reef, or rather between the
+reef and the mainland, and so on to China, Japan, Corea, and home by
+Siberia; but my doctor advised me not to attempt it, so I booked passage
+for Colombo instead, and S---- and myself necessarily parted. But it was
+with much regret that I missed this wonderful coasting trip, long looked
+forward to and now probably never to be accomplished. On my way home I
+visited beautiful Adelaide, and the younger city, Perth, which reminded
+me much of the West American mining towns. Colombo needs no call for
+notice. At Messina we saw the ruined city, the devastation seeming to
+have been very terrible; but it presented no such awful spectacle of
+absolutely overwhelming destruction as did San Francisco. Etna was
+smoking; Stromboli also. Then Marseilles, Paris, and home.
+
+During that summer at home I was fortunate enough to see the polo test
+matches between Hurlingham and Meadowbrook teams, otherwise England
+versus America. It was a disheartening spectacle. The English could
+neither drive a ball with accuracy nor distance; they "dwelt" at the
+most critical time, were slow in getting off, overran the ball, and in
+fact were beaten with ease, as they deserved to be.
+
+An even more interesting experience was a visit to the aviation meeting
+at Rheims, the first ever held in the world, and a most successful one.
+Yet the British Empire was hardly represented even by visitors. Such
+great filers as Curtis, Lefevre, Latham, Paulhan, Bleriot and Farman
+were all present.
+
+In the autumn I had a week's salmon-fishing at Garynahine in the Lews.
+The weather was not favourable and the sport poor considering the place.
+Close by is the Grimersta river and lodge, perhaps the finest rod salmon
+fishery in Scotland. A young East Indian whom I happened to know had a
+rod there, and was then at the lodge. On asking him about fishing, etc.,
+he told me, and showed me by the lodge books, that the record for this
+river was fifty-four salmon in one day to one rod, all caught by the
+fly! The fortunate fisherman's name? Mr Naylor! the very man I had
+travelled with to New Zealand! I have vainly tried for three seasons now
+to get a rod on this river, if only for a week, and at �30 a week that
+would be long enough for me. I also this autumn had a rod on the Dee,
+but only fished twice; no fish and no water. During this summer I golfed
+very determinedly, buoyed up by the vain hope of becoming a first-class
+player--a "scratch" man. Alas! alas! but it is all vanity anyway! What
+does the angler care for catching a large basket of trout if there be no
+one by to show them to? And what does the golfer care about his game if
+he have not an opponent or a crowd to witness his prowess? At Muirfield
+I enjoyed the amateur championship--R. Maxwell's year.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+FOURTH TOUR ABROAD
+
+     Yucatan--Honduras--Costa
+     Rica--Panama--Equador--Peru--Chile--Argentina--Brazil--Teneriffe.
+
+
+October 1909 saw me on board the steamer _Lusitania_, bound for New York
+and another long trip somewhere. What a leviathan! What luxury! Think of
+the Spanish dons who crossed the same ocean in mere cobble boats of
+fifty tons, and our equally intrepid discoverers and explorers. What
+methods did they adopt to counteract the discomfort of _mal de mer_?
+Which reminds me that on this same _Lusitania_ was the Viscomte D----,
+Portuguese Ambassador or Minister to the United States of America, who
+confidentially told me that he at one time was the worst of sailors, but
+since adopting a certain belt which supports the diaphragm the idea of
+sea-sickness never even suggests itself to him. For the public benefit
+it may be said that this belt is manufactured by the Anti Mal de Mer
+Belt Co., National Drug and Chemical Co., St Gabriel Street, Montreal,
+Canada. Bad sailors take note! On this steamer were also, as honoured
+guests, Jim Jeffries, the redoubtable, going to his doom; "Tay Pay"
+O'Connor; and Kessler, the "freak" Savoy Hotel dinner-giver; also, by
+the way, a certain London Jew financier, who gave me a commission to go
+to and report on the Quito railroad.
+
+When travelling west from New York in the fall one is filled with
+admiration for the wonderful colour of the maple and other trees. Europe
+has nothing at all comparable. This wonderful display is alone worth
+crossing the Atlantic to see.
+
+I found that the past summer had been a record hot one for Texas. The
+thermometer went to 115� in the shade. Eggs were cooked (fried, it is to
+be supposed) on the side-walk, and popcorn popped in the stalks. In
+November I sailed from New Orleans for Yucatan to visit at Merida a
+Mexican friend, who turned out to be the King of Yucatan, as he was
+popularly called, he being an immense landed proprietor and practically
+monopolist of the henequin industry. Henequin, or Sisal hemp, is the
+fibre of _Agave Sisalensis_, a plant very like the _Agave Americana_,
+from which pulque is extracted. Thence round the corner, so to speak, to
+British Honduras, where we called in at Belize, whose trade is in
+mahogany and chicklee gum, combined with a deal of quiet smuggling done
+with the Central American States. Quite near Belize, among the
+innumerable islands and reefs, was the stronghold of the celebrated
+pirate Wallace (Scotchman). Many man-o'-war birds and pelicans were in
+the harbour. From Belize to Porto Barrios, the eastern terminus of the
+Guatemala railway. Here we are close to the scene of that wonderful and
+mysterious Central American prehistoric civilization, which has left for
+our antiquarians and learned men a life-work to decipher the still dumb
+symbols carved on its stupendous ruins. In Guatemala, and near this
+railway, are Copan and Quirigu�, and probably other still undiscovered
+dead cities. Some of these Guatemala structures show a quite
+extraordinary resemblance to those at Angkor in Cambodia. Mitla and
+Palenque are in Mexico and are equally remarkable. The latter is still
+difficult to get to. Here again (Palenque) the temple shows a strange
+similarity to that at Boro Budoer in Java. Was it Stamford Raffles who
+said that, as far as the expenditure of human labour and skill goes, the
+pyramids of Egypt sink into insignificance when compared with this
+sculptured temple of Boro Budoer. Chichen-Itza, Labna, Sayil and Uxmal
+are all in Yucatan and approached from Merida. How many more of such
+very wonderful ruins are still hidden in the dense jungle of these
+countries it will be many years yet before we may know. Some I have seen
+myself, and it is still my hope very soon to visit others.
+
+Among the wild animals of Yucatan and Honduras are the jaguar (_Felis
+on�a_) with spots, ocellated or eyed; and the panther (_Felis
+concolor_) called puma in Arizona; the vaca de aqua or manatee, shaped
+like a small whale but with two paddles; the howling monkey, largest in
+America, and the spider monkey; the iguana, largest land lizard known to
+history, and alligators. Alligators are confined to the Western
+Hemisphere; crocodiles were supposed to be peculiar to the East, but
+lately a true crocodile (_Crocodilus Americanus_) has been identified in
+Florida. The alligator covers its eggs with a heap of rubbish for warmth
+and so leaves them; the African crocodile, on the contrary, buries them
+in the sand and then sits over them. The cardinal bird and the ocellated
+turkey must not be forgotten. Here may be found the leaf-cutting ants,
+which store the leaf particles in order to grow a fungus on, and which
+they are very particular shall be neither too damp nor too dry. Also
+another ant, the _Polyergus Rufescens_, a pure slave-hunter, absolutely
+dependent on its slaves for all the comforts of life and being even fed
+by them.
+
+In Honduras there are many Caribs, still a strong race of Indians,
+having a strict and severe criminal law of their own. They are employed
+mostly as mahogany cutters, and are energetic, intelligent and
+thoroughly reliable workmen. Puerto Cortez in Honduras has the finest
+harbour on the whole Atlantic coast of Central America.
+
+Note.--St Thomas is supposed to have visited and civilized the Central
+American Indians, as Quetzalcohuatl did in Mexico.
+
+On leaving New Orleans it had been my intention to enter Nicaragua and
+report to a certain New Orleans newspaper on the conditions in that most
+distressful country; said paper having commissioned me to do so.
+Entrance to the State could only be made from Guatemala, but that
+country's consul in New Orleans refused to issue the necessary passport.
+Had I gone as an Englishman, and not as an American, there might have
+been no difficulty. As said before, Central American States have a dread
+and suspicion of Yankees. This was at the time that two Yankee
+revolutionists had been shot by the President of Nicaragua.
+
+The next place of call was Limon, the port of Costa Rica. Every foot of
+land on these coasts, suitable for the growth of bananas, has been
+bought up by the great American Fruit Co., a company of enormous
+resources and great enterprise. Limon is a delightful little town from
+whence the railway runs to San Jos�, the capital, which stands some 4000
+feet above sea-level. Costa Rica is a peace-loving little state,
+prosperous, and enjoying a delightful climate. Much coffee and cocoa is
+grown, shaded by the Bois immortel or madre de Cacao. The live-stock
+industry is also a large one, and the animals seen on the high grassy
+plains are well grown and apparently well bred enough. I visited
+Cartago, a city which soon afterwards was destroyed by an earthquake.
+
+On the railroad trip up to and back from the capital we passed through
+lovely and romantic scenery, high hills, deep ravines and virgin
+tropical forest. The rainy season was at its height, and how it rained!
+The river was a raging torrent, and from the railway "cut" alongside
+continuous land-slides of loose gravelly soil were threatening the track
+with demolition. Indeed, at some points this had actually occurred, and
+the train several times had to be stopped to allow the gangs of workmen
+to clear the way. A bad slide, had it hit the train, would have pushed
+the whole thing into the deep and turbulent river. All the passengers
+were much alarmed, and I stood on the car platform ready to jump, though
+the jump would necessarily have been into the seething water.
+
+November 27th.--Colon once more! Went on to Panama. The Chagres River
+was in the highest state of flood known in twenty years.
+
+November 30th.--Sailed on steamship _Chile_ with about thirty
+passengers, all Spanish Americans, bound for Equador, Peru or Chile.
+
+December 3rd.--Reached the Equator, and I donned warmer clothes. We saw
+whales, sharks, porpoises, rays and thrashers. Entered the Guayaquil
+River. Here was where Pizarro first landed and obtained a footing. The
+steamer anchored in quarantine a mile below the city. Yellow fever was
+raging as usual, and the Quito railroad was blocked by the
+revolutionists, so my projected visit again for the second time fell
+through. Guayaquil has the highest permanent death-rate of all cities.
+The state produces much cocoa and mangrove wood. The town is the centre
+of the Panama hat trade, which hats are made of the sheaths of the
+unexpanded leaves of the jaraca palm, or of the long sheaths protecting
+the flower-cone of the hat palm (_taquilla_); and they can only be made
+in a favourable damp atmosphere. Here on the mangrove roots and
+submerged branches enormous quantities of oysters may be found. Oysters
+on trees at last! Belonging to Equador State are the Galapagos Islands,
+500 miles westward. Of course we did not visit them, but they are
+remarkable for their giant tortoises and their wild cattle, donkeys and
+dogs. It is said that these dogs do not bark, having forgotten how to;
+but they develop the power after contact with domestic ones. The
+Guayaquil River swarms with alligators, but luckily the alligator never
+attacks man.
+
+We sailed south down the coast, calling at many ports. From Guayaquil
+south to Valparaiso, a distance of 2000 miles, we enjoyed bright, clear
+weather, a pleasant, sometimes an even too low temperature, and
+peaceful seas, a condition which the captain assured me was constant,
+the low temperature being due to the South Polar or Humboldt current.
+The absolute barren condition of this whole coast is also indirectly due
+to this current, the temperature of the sea being so much below that of
+the land that evaporation and condensation do not take place. After
+passing some guano islands on December 9th we landed at Callao, the port
+of Lima. Went on to Lima, a city founded by Pizarro, and once a very
+gay, luxurious and licentious capital. It is celebrated for its handsome
+churches. Its streets are narrow and the whole population seemingly
+devoted to peddling lottery tickets. There are many Chinamen amongst its
+150,000 inhabitants. The Roman Catholics control the country, which is
+absolutely priest-ridden, Reformed or other churches not being permitted
+in Peru. A revolution was attempted only a few days ago, the President
+having been seized and dragged out of his office to be shot. The
+military, however, rescued him and the revolution was over in
+twenty-four hours. Peru's resources, outside of the very rich mining
+districts, will eventually be found in the Monta�a country, on the lower
+eastern slopes of the Andes. Her people are backward, and, at least in
+Cuzco and Arequipa, I should say the dirtiest in the world. There is as
+yet little or no tourist traffic on this coast; and there will not be
+much till better steamers are put on and hotels improved. In Lima,
+however, the Hotel Maury is quite good, though purely Spanish. It never
+rains on this coast, yet Lima is foggy and cold.
+
+I took a trip up to Oroya over the wonderful Meiggs railway. M. Meiggs
+was an American, who had to leave his country on account of certain
+irregularities. We reached a height of 16,000 feet, the country being
+absolutely barren and devoid of vegetation, but very grand and imposing.
+
+December 16th.--Sailed from Callao for Mollendo, calling at Pisco. Here,
+close to the harbour, are wonderful guano islands, on two of which were
+dense solid masses of birds covering what seemed to be hundreds of acres
+of ground. How many millions or billions must there have been! And yet,
+it being the evening, millions more were flighting home to the islands.
+With glasses they could be seen in continuous files coming from all
+directions. These birds are principally cormorants and pelicans. There
+are also very many seals, and we saw some whales. These islands
+presented one of the most marvellous sights I ever saw. And what
+enormous, still undeveloped, fisheries there must be here to support
+this bird-life. To-day we also passed a field of "Red Sea," conferv� or
+infusoria. We were favoured for once with a grand view of the Andean
+peaks, which are seldom well seen from the coast, being wrapped in
+haze and clouds.
+
+[Illustration: LLAMAS AS PACK ANIMALS.]
+
+[Illustration: DRIFTING SAND DUNE. (One of thousands.)]
+
+Arrived at Mollendo, port of Arequipa and Bolivia, I at once took train
+and rose rapidly to an elevation of 8000 feet, arriving in the evening
+at Arequipa. The whole country is desolate in the extreme. On the high
+plains we passed through an immense field of moving sand-hills, all of
+crescent shape, the sand being white and of a very fine grain. On
+approaching Arequipa the sunset effect on the bright and vari-hued rock
+strata and scori�, backed by the grand Volcan Misti, 19,000 feet high,
+made a marvellously beautiful picture, the most beautiful of its kind
+ever seen by me, and showing how wonderfully coloured landscapes may be
+without the presence of vegetation of any kind. Hotels in Arequipa are
+very primitive, and after a glance at the market and its filthy people
+you will confine your table fare to eggs and English biscuits as I did.
+Arequipa has been thrice destroyed by earthquakes and is indeed
+considered the quakiest spot on earth. Priests, monks, ragged soldiers
+and churches almost compose the town; yet it has a very beautiful Plaza
+de Armas, where in the evenings Arequipa fashion promenades to the music
+of a quite good band. I seemed to be the only tourist here.
+
+On the 20th I took train to Juliaca, rising to 15,000 feet; thence two
+days to Cuzco, the celebrated southern capital of the Incas, whose
+history I will not here touch on. Not only are there abandoned Inca
+remains, but also in high Peru and Bolivia remains of structures
+erected, as it is now supposed, 5000 years ago. The pottery recently
+found would suggest this, it being as gracefully moulded and decorated
+as that of Egypt of the same period; authority even declaring it to be
+undistinguishable from the latter, and they also testify to evidence of
+an extremely high and cultivated civilization, not barbaric in any
+sense, in these remote periods. Indeed, the civilization of the country
+at that far-off time must have been quite as advanced as in the Nile
+Valley. Cyclopean walls and other remains show a marvellous skill in
+construction; individual blocks of granite-stone, measuring as much as
+fifteen to twenty feet in diameter, being placed in these walls with
+such skill that even to-day a pen-knife blade cannot be inserted between
+them. No mortar was used, but the blocks are keyed together in a
+peculiar way. How this stone was so skilfully cut and transported we
+cannot imagine; even with iron and all our modern appliances it is
+doubtful if we could produce such exactitude.
+
+[Illustration: PERUVIAN RUINS.
+(Note dimensions of stones and locking system)]
+
+At Puna one gets a good view of Lake Titicaca, still a large lake, but
+once of much greater dimensions. Sailing over and among the high peaks
+it was here my good fortune to view for the first time that majestic
+bird, the condor, which, it is declared, has never been seen to flap its
+wings. Thus in the South Seas I had been privileged to see the
+albatross, and here the condor. Lucky, indeed, to have viewed these
+monarchs of the air, free in their proper element, in all their pride,
+grace and beauty. How often, as a boy, or even as a man, has one
+anticipated "some day" seeing these noble birds in their native haunts!
+Also many llamas and alpacas, the former very handsome animals. The
+vicu�as and guanacos are the wild representatives of this family, and
+are also very abundant. In Arequipa I suffered somewhat from "nevada,"
+due to electric conditions, and distinct from "saroche." Saroche never
+affected me.
+
+December 27th.--Sailed for Valparaiso, calling at Iquique, Antofagasta
+and Coquimbo. The coast country is so desolate and arid that at some of
+these purely nitrate towns school-children's knowledge of trees and
+other plants is derived solely from painted representations on boardings
+erected for the purpose. This may seem libellous, but is not so.
+
+We arrived at Valparaiso on New Year's Day. The city showed few signs of
+its late disaster. The harbour is poor, and the place has few
+attractions. Society was attending a race meeting at Vi�o del Mar. Went
+on to Santiago, the capital, 1500 feet elevation, population claimed
+300,000; our route lying through rich, well-cultivated valleys. The
+climate and general appearance of the country are much like those of
+California, the temperature being quite hot at mid-day but cool always
+in the shade, the nights being chilly. This was midsummer. Santiago has
+some handsome buildings and a very attractive Plaza Mayor; the hotels
+are poor. The Chilians are an active, intelligent, wide-awake people;
+are great fighters and free from the religious trammels of Peru. From
+here I took train to Los Andes; then by narrow gauge line, the grade
+being 7 per cent. on the cog track, through barren rough gorges to the
+Cumbre, or summit, 13,000 feet high. The most commanding peak that we
+saw was Aconcagua, over 23,000 feet high, and the highest mountain in
+the Western Hemisphere. At Lago del Inca, at the entrance to the
+incompleted tunnel, we left the train and took mules or carts to the
+summit, where is an immense, surprising and commanding figure of the
+Christ. On the Argentina side we again took train to Mendoza, an
+important town and centre of the fruit and wine country. Thence a
+straight run over the immense level pampas, now pastures grazed by
+innumerable cattle, sheep and horses, to Buenos Ayres. Many rheas
+(ostriches) were seen from the train. These birds, the hens, lay in each
+other's nests, and the male incubates--perhaps to save the time of the
+hens; which reminds one of the cuckoo, who mates often, and whose stay
+is so limited that she has no time to incubate. Yet she does not lay in
+nests, but on the ground, and the eggs are deposited by the male in the
+nests of birds whose eggs they most resemble, and only one in each.
+
+By-the-by, whilst in Santiago a quite severe quake occurred, but there
+were few casualties, only two people being killed. It was at night, and
+my bedroom being on the third floor of the only three-storey building in
+town, I continued to lie in bed, not indeed knowing what to do, and
+resigning myself to fate. I distinctly do not want to live in quaking
+countries!
+
+The sensation produced on one by an earthquake is peculiar and different
+from all others. One is not so much alarmed as overawed; one feels so
+helpless, so insignificant; you know you can do nothing. What may happen
+next at any moment is beyond your ken; only when you realize that the
+disturbance has actually shaken these immense mountain masses and these
+boundless plains do you appreciate the forces that have caused it. The
+Krakatoa outbreak raised the water in our Thames four inches. A great
+Peruvian earthquake sent a tidal wave into the Red Sea.
+
+Buenos Ayres is a city of some 1,200,000 people, half Italians (the
+working and go-ahead half) and half Spanish Americans. But there is
+also a very mixed population. There are many fine buildings and palatial
+residences, but the business streets are ridiculously narrow, save and
+except the Avenida de Mayo, which is one of the handsomest streets in
+the world. The new boulevards, the parks and race-tracks all deserve
+admiration. The hotels are not quite good enough--not even the palatial
+"Plaza." Prices, and indeed the cost of living, are quite as great as in
+New York. It was too hot to remain long, so I crossed to Montevideo,
+went all over the town; but beyond seeing (not meeting, alas!) one of
+the most beautiful girls I ever saw in my life, there was not much to
+interest. So, on the White Star Liner _Athenic_, I hastened to England.
+It may be remarked here that though Buenos Ayres and Santiago claim, and
+offer, wonderful displays of horsed carriages in their parks, if one
+watches them critically he will seldom see a really smart turn-out. The
+coachman's badly-made boots, or a strap out of place, or a buckle
+wanting, or blacking needed, all detract from the desirable London
+standard.
+
+January 24th.--We entered beautiful Rio harbour. In the town the
+temperature was unbearable. The city is in the same transformation
+condition as Buenos Ayres; the streets are narrow, except the very
+handsome new Avenida Central. The esplanade on the bay is quite
+unequalled anywhere else. Surely a great future awaits Rio! A trip up
+Corcovada, a needle-like peak, some 2000 feet high, overlooking the bay,
+should not be missed. We sailed again for Teneriffe to coal, which gave
+us an opportunity to admire the grand peak and get some idea of the
+nature of the country. Thence home.
+
+Perhaps a short note on the great historical personages of Central and
+South America may be of interest. Among these the greatest was Simon
+Bolivar, who with Miranda, the Apostle of Liberty, freed the Northern
+States of South America from Spanish dominion. It was Bolivar who in
+1826 summoned the first International Peace Congress at Panama. San
+Martin, an equally great man, born in Argentina, freed the southern half
+of the Continent. Lopez, president in 1862 of Paraguay, has secured
+notoriety for having had the worst character in all American history.
+Petion, almost a pure negro, deserves also a prominent place. He was
+born in 1770, was a great, good and able man, and freed Haiti; he also
+assisted and advised Bolivar. May I also remind you here that Peru is
+the home of the Peruvian bark tree (cinchona) and the equally valuable
+coca plant, which gives us cocaine. Paraguay is the country of the
+yerba-mate, universally drunk there, supplanting tea, coffee, cocoa and
+coca. Like coca it has very stimulating qualities. El Dorado, the
+much-sought-for and fabulous, was vouched for by Juan Martinez, the
+chief of liars, who located it somewhere up the Orinoco River.
+
+The Spaniards, and also the Portuguese, were wonderful colonizers and
+administrators. Just think what enormous territories their civilization
+influenced, and influenced for good. Certainly the torch of the
+Inquisition accompanied them; but even under that dreadful blight their
+colonies prospered and the conquered races became Iberianized, such was
+their masters' power of impressing their language, religion and manners
+on even barbarous tribes.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+FIFTH TOUR ABROAD
+
+     California--Honolulu--Japan--China--Singapore--Burmah
+     --India--Ceylon--The End.
+
+
+I hope these hasty notes, so hurriedly and scantily given, may have
+interested my readers enough to secure their company for one more
+globe-trot, which shall be rushed through in order to bring these
+reminiscences to a close.
+
+A momentous event of 1910 was the death of King Edward VII., which threw
+everybody into deep mourning; and it seemed to me Englishwomen never
+looked so well as when dressed in black.
+
+In the autumn I started for New York and Amarillo. Never before was I so
+impressed with the growth and improvement and possibilities of New York
+city, soon to be the most populous, wealthiest and greatest city the
+world has ever seen. The incomparable beauty of the American woods and
+forests in the fall again attracted me and afforded much pleasure.
+
+From Amarillo I went on to San Francisco, stopping off to have yet one
+more sight of the Grand Ca�on of the Colorado River. San Francisco was
+now almost completely restored, and much on the old plan. Her Knob-hill
+palaces are gone, but her hotels are better and more palatial than ever.
+
+November 22nd.--Sailed on a Japanese steamer for Yokohama, via Honolulu.
+These Japanese steamers are first-class, and noted for cleanliness and
+the politeness of the entire ship's company. We coaled at Honolulu and
+then proceeded. On approaching Yokohama we got a fine view of Fuji-San,
+the great national volcano, as it may be called, its perfect cone rising
+sheer from the low plain to a height of 12,700 feet. Fuji is at present
+quiescent; but Japan has some active volcanoes, and earthquakes are very
+frequent. My visit was at the least favourable time of the year, viz.,
+in winter. The country should be seen in spring, during the
+cherry-blossom season, or in the autumn, when the tree foliage is almost
+more beautiful.
+
+From Yokohama I went on to Tokio, formerly Jeddo, and now the capital.
+It is a large and busy city with some fine Government modern buildings.
+The palace, parks and temples form the sights. In the city proper as in
+all Japanese towns, the streets are very narrow and crowded with
+rickshaws, the only means of passenger conveyance. At the Anglo-Japanese
+dinner, given at my hotel, I had an opportunity of seeing Japanese men
+and women in full-dress attire, and to notice the extreme formalities of
+their greetings. A Japanese gentleman bows once, then again, and, as if
+he had forgotten something, after a short interval a third time. From
+Tokio I went to Kioto, formerly the residence of the Mikado, now purely
+a native city, with no modern buildings and still narrower streets; but
+it is the centre of the cloisonn�, damascening and embroidery
+industries. Hotels in Japan are everywhere quite good. Here I visited
+the fencing and jiu-jitsu schools, which are attended by a large number
+of pupils, women as well as men. Also the geisha school, and saw girls
+taught dancing, music and tea ceremony. What perfectly delightful and
+charming little ladies Japanese girls of apparently all classes are. The
+smile of the geisha girl may be professional, but is very seductive and
+penetrating; so that the mere European man is soon a willing worshipper.
+The plump little waitresses in hotels and tea-houses, charmingly
+costumed, smiling as only they can smile, are incomparable. The
+Japanese, too, are the cleanest of all nations; the Chinese and Koreans
+among the dirtiest. They are extremely courteous as well as polite. A
+drunken man is hardly ever seen in Japan, a woman never. An angry word
+is hardly ever heard; indeed, the language has no "swear" words. All the
+people are artistic, even �sthetic. Arthur Diosy in his book declares
+that the Japanese are the most cheerful, peaceable, law-abiding and
+kindliest of all peoples. Up till the "Great Change," 1871, trade was
+considered unsuitable for, and degrading to, a gentleman. Women here,
+by-the-by, shave or have shaven the whole face, including the nose and
+ears, though not the eyebrows. How these Japs worship the beauties of
+Nature! Few of us might see much beauty in a purple cabbage; yet in my
+hotel purple cabbages were put in prominent places to decorate the
+dining-hall, and were really quite effective.
+
+From Kioto I went to Nara, once the capital of the Empire, a pretty
+place with large park and interesting museum. A great religious festival
+was on, including a procession of men in ancient armour and costumes.
+There was also some horse-racing, which was quite comical. Apparently no
+European but myself was present. On travelling to Nara I passed through
+the tea district of Oji. The gardens are very beautiful and carefully
+tended. It was a great treat to me this first opportunity to see
+something of Japanese peasant life, and to admire the intensive and
+thorough cultivation. Not a foot of productive soil is wasted. The
+landscape of rice-fields, succeeded by tea-gardens, bamboo groves, up to
+the forest or brush-clad hills, and the very picturesque villages and
+farmhouses and rustic temples, form many a delightful picture. In the
+growing season the whole country must be very beautiful. Excellent trout
+and salmon fishing may then be had. The adopted national game for
+youths seems to be base-ball, and not cricket as in China.
+
+Next I went to Kobe, via Osaka, the great manufacturing centre of the
+Empire. At Kobe took another Japanese steamer for Shanghai, calling at
+Moji, Shimonoseki and Nagasaki, and traversing the wonderfully beautiful
+inland Sea of Japan, a magnified, and quite as beautiful, Loch Lomond.
+This sea was dotted with innumerable fishing-boats. Indeed, Japan's
+sea-fisheries must be one of her most valuable assets. Moji harbour is a
+beautiful one, has an inlet and an outlet, but appears land-locked. On
+the mainland side is Shimonoseki, where Li Hung Chang signed the Peace
+Treaty with Japan, and where he was later wounded by an assassin.
+Nagasaki has also a fine harbour. From here I took a rickshaw ride over
+the hills to a lovely little summer coast-resort, passing through a most
+picturesque country.
+
+Japan has, among many others, one particular curiosity in the shape of a
+domestic cock, possessing a tail as much as fifteen feet in length, and
+which tail receives its owner's, or rather its owner's owner's, most
+careful consideration. The unfortunate bird is kept in a very small
+wicker cage, so small that he can't turn round, the long tail feathers
+escaping through an aperture and drooping to the ground. Once a day the
+bird is taken out and allowed to exercise for a short time on a
+spotlessly clean floor-mat.
+
+While in Japan I was told that her modern cultured men are satisfied
+with a simple work-a-day system of Ethics, priestly guidance being
+unnecessary, and they regard religion as being for the ignorant,
+superstitious or thoughtless. Thus they "emancipate their consciences
+from the conventional bonds of traditional religions."
+
+It has been remarked that the Japanese will probably never again be such
+heroes, or at least will never be such reckless, fanatical fighters as
+they were in the late war, as civilization and property rights will make
+life more worth living and therefore preserving. The same might apply to
+the Fuzzy Wuzzies, to Cromwell's Ironsides, and to some extent our own
+Highlanders and others of a like fanatical tendency.
+
+It had been my intention and hope to visit Korea, Port Arthur, Mukden
+and Peking; but was advised very strongly, on account of the extreme
+cold and almost Arctic conditions said to be prevailing in North China,
+not to go there. But at Shanghai I had better information, contradicting
+these reports and describing the weather as delightful at the capital.
+Shanghai has an immense river and ocean trade, and in the waterway are
+swung river gun-boats of all nations, as well as queer-looking Chinese
+armed junks, used in putting down piracy. I visited the city club, the
+country club, and the racecourse, and took a stroll at night through
+Soochow Road, among the native tea-houses, theatres, etc. Someone
+advised me to visit a town up the river on a certain day to witness the
+execution of some dozen river pirates and other criminals, a common
+occurrence; but such an attraction did not appeal to me.
+
+In China, as in Japan and other countries, the German, often gross,
+selfish and vulgar, is ever present. But he is resourceful and
+determined, and threatens to push the placid Englishman to the wall.
+
+Though the practice is not now permitted, Chinese women's bound and
+deformed feet are still to the stranger a constant source of wonder. It
+is said the custom arose in the desire of Court ladies to emulate the
+very tiny feet of a certain royal princess; but it is also suggested
+that the custom was instituted to stop the female gadding-about
+propensity!
+
+Here in Shanghai I first observed edible swallow-nests in the market for
+sale. They did not look nice, but why should they not be so, knowing as
+we do that the young of swallows, unlike those of other birds, vent
+their ordure over the sides, so that the nests are not in any way
+defiled. Here I also learned that Pidgin, as in the expression "Pidgin"
+English, is John's attempt to pronounce "business."
+
+From Shanghai to Soochow city, a typical Chinese walled town, still
+quite unmodernized, and no doubt the same as it was 2000 years ago.
+Tourists seldom enter it, and no European dwells within its walls,
+inside of which are crowded and jammed 500,000 souls. The main street
+was not more than six to eight _feet_ wide, and so filled with such a
+jostling, busy crowd of people as surely could not be seen anywhere else
+on earth. Even rickshaws are not allowed to enter, there being no room
+for them. Progress can only be made on a donkey, and then with much
+shouting and discomfort. What a busy people the Chinese are! Some day
+they may people the earth. They seem to be even more intelligent than
+the Japanese, more honest and more industrious; and have an almost
+lovable disposition. And what giants they are compared to their
+neighbours!--the men from the north being especially so. I also went by
+narrow and vile-smelling streets to visit a celebrated leaning pagoda
+near Soochow, and on returning took the opportunity offered of
+inspecting with much interest a mandarin's rock-garden, purely Chinese
+and entirely different from Japanese similar retreats. In Shanghai I
+visited the original tea-house depicted on the well-known willow-pattern
+china ware.
+
+January 1st.--Arrived at Hong-Kong and admired its splendid harbour and
+surroundings. This is one of the greatest seaports in the world, with an
+enormous trade. The whole island belongs to Great Britain; unlike
+Shanghai, where different nationalities merely have concessions. In the
+famous Happy Valley I had several days' golfing with a naval friend, and
+we played very badly. A trip up the river to Canton, the southern
+capital of China, an immense city with 2,000,000 population, was full of
+interest. Half the population seemingly live in boats.
+
+What indefatigable workers the Chinese are. They seem to work all night
+and they seem to work all day. They are busy as ants. If one cannot find
+employment otherwise he will make it! Barring the beggars, there are no
+unemployed and no unemployables. What a mighty force they must become in
+the world's economy. We estimate China's population by millions, but
+forget to properly scale their energy and industry. What is the future
+of such a people to be! Yet they seem to be incapable of any general
+national movement: each is absorbed in his immediate work and contented
+to be so; so unlike the Japanese, with equal energy and industry, plus
+boundless ambition and patriotism.[4]
+
+[Footnote 4: Appendix, Note I.]
+
+The Chinaman's pigtail calls for explanation. The Manchus, on conquering
+China in 1644, decreed that all Chinese should shave the rest of the
+head but wear the pigtail. The Chinese would not submit to this; so the
+politic Manchu emperor further decreed that only loyal subjects might
+adopt the custom, criminals to be debarred. This ruse was so successful
+that now the Chinaman is even proud of his adornment, and little
+advantage is being taken of a recent relaxation of the decree.
+
+Sailing for Singapore I was blessed with a cabin all to myself, and what
+a blessing it is! In all my travels I have been singularly fortunate in
+securing privacy in this way.
+
+There is not much to interest in Singapore. It is one of the hottest
+places on earth, the same in winter and summer, purely tropical. It has,
+however, fine parks, streets and open places. The principal hotel is the
+"Raffles," which I should imagine is also the worst. The most notable
+feature of Singapore is the variety of "natives" domiciled
+there--Ceylonese, Burmese, Chinese, Japanese, Siamese, Hindoos and
+Malays. After leaving Singapore we looked in at Penang, where we had
+time to inspect a famous Chinese temple. An American Army General,
+D----, and his wife were among the passengers, and I found much pleasure
+in their company; indeed, we travelled thereafter much together in
+Burmah and India.
+
+Rangoon, where we arrived next, is a large, well-laid-out city, as
+cosmopolitan as Singapore. The bazaars are well worth visiting, and the
+working of elephants in the great teak yards is one of the tourist's
+principal sights. But the great Shwe Dagon pagoda is of course the
+centre of interest, and indeed it is one of the most astonishing places
+of worship it has been my fortune to visit. The pagoda itself is of the
+typical bell shape, solidly built of brick, gilded from base to summit,
+and crowned with a golden Ti. The shrines, too, which surround and
+jostle it, hold the attention and wonder of the visitor. There are very
+many of these, mostly of graceful design, with delicate and intricate
+wood carvings and other decorations. The pagoda is the most venerated of
+all Buddhist places of worship, containing as it does not only the eight
+sacred hairs of Gautama, but also relics of the three Buddhas who
+preceded him. It is also from its great height, 370 feet (higher than St
+Paul's Cathedral), and graceful shape, extremely imposing and sublime.
+
+From Rangoon I trained to Mandalay, on the Irawadi River, not a large
+town, but rich in historical associations, and famous for its Buddhist
+pagodas, such as The Incomparable and the Arakan; also the Queen's
+Golden Monastery. King Theebaw's palace remains much as it was, and well
+worth examination. The population here is almost purely Burmese; in fact
+you see the Burmese at their best, and the impression is always
+favourable. What brilliant but beautiful colours they affect in their
+head-clothes, jackets and silken gowns. They are a cheerful,
+light-hearted and good-natured people, lazy perhaps, but all apparently
+well enough to do. The boys and the young men play the national game of
+football, the ball, made simply of lightly-plaited bamboo strips, being
+kicked and tossed into the air with wonderful skill and activity, never
+being allowed to touch the ground. The way they can "take" the ball from
+behind, and with the heel or side of the foot toss it upwards and
+forwards, would be a revelation even to the Newcastle United. The women
+and girls have utmost freedom and are to be seen everywhere, often
+smoking enormous cigarettes: merry and careless, but always well, and
+often charmingly, dressed.
+
+A fine view, and good idea, of the great Irawadi River may be obtained
+from Mandalay; but time was pressing, so I railed back to Rangoon
+instead of making the river trip, which my friends, the D----s, did.
+
+The steamer to Calcutta was unusually crowded, but I was again fortunate
+enough to secure the use of the pilot's cabin all to myself. The Hugli
+River was familiar even after thirty-four years' absence, and in
+Calcutta I noticed little change. The hotels, including the Grand and
+Continental, are quite unworthy of the city, only the very old and
+well-known Great Eastern approaching the first-class character. Calcutta
+was getting hot, so I at once went on to Darjeeling, hoping to get a
+view of what my eyes had ever longed to see--the glorious high peaks of
+the Himalayas, and the roof of the world. After a few hours' run through
+the celebrated Terai jungle, the haunt, and probably final sanctuary, of
+the big game of India, the track ascends rapidly and picturesquely
+through the tea district of Kangra, and arrives at Darjeeling, elevation
+7500 feet, the summer home of the Bengal Government and the merchant
+princes of Calcutta and elsewhere. I had been forewarned that the
+chances of seeing the high peaks at this time of the year were extremely
+slim; but my experience and disappointment in connection with Korea and
+Peking taught me to disregard such warnings; and, as it turned out, I
+was rewarded with a perfect day and magnificent views of Mounts
+Kinchinjunga and Everest, and all the other majestic heights; seen, too,
+in all their phases of cloud and mist, of perfectly clear blue sky, and
+of sunrise and sunset effects. It was indeed a most satisfying and
+absorbing twenty-four hours' visit, as I had also time, under the
+guidance of an official friend, to visit the picturesque weekly market
+or bazaar, where natives from Sikkim, Nepal, Butan and Tibet may be seen
+in all their dirt and strangeness. Also the quite beautiful Botanic
+Gardens, the Club House, the prayer-wheels, etc. More than that, I was
+privileged to pay my respects to the Dalai Lama, who had but recently
+left his kingdom and taken refuge here. The acknowledged spiritual head
+of the Buddhists of Mongolia and China is a young man with a dreamy,
+absorbed expression of countenance, perhaps not of much intellectuality,
+but who is approachable even to the merely curious. My friend and kind
+cicerone was Commissioner of the Bengal police, and was extremely busy
+laying guards along the railroad and taking all other necessary
+precautions for the safety of the German Imperial Crown Prince during
+his projected visit to Darjeeling, a visit ultimately abandoned. I can
+imagine his chagrin at the waste of all his labours, expense to the
+Indian Government, etc. etc., due to the caprice of this apparently
+frivolous and not quite courteous young hopeful. Indeed, the Crown
+Prince, though a popular young fellow enough, was the source of trouble
+and tribulation to his hosts, breaking conventions and scandalizing
+Society by his disregard of its usages.
+
+Returning to Calcutta I thence took train to Agra via Allahabad,
+purposely, on account of the great discomfort and poor hotel
+accommodation due to the large tourist traffic, avoiding Lucknow,
+Benares and Cawnpore. At Allahabad the Aga Khan, temporal head of the
+Mohammedans of India, and a man of great authority and influence, joined
+our train, and part of the way I was lucky enough to be in his company
+and had an opportunity of speaking with him. In appearance he is a
+Turk, quite European in dress, and seems capable, energetic, sociable
+and agreeable. At every stopping-place he received an ovation, crowds of
+his Mussulman supporters and friends, among them apparently being chiefs
+and rajahs and other men of high degree, greeting him with much
+enthusiasm, which enthusiasm I learned was aroused by His Highness'
+endeavour towards the raising of the status of the Mohammedan College of
+Aligarh to that of a university.
+
+I should say here that, on Indian railways, the first-class carriages
+are divided into compartments, containing each four beds, but in which
+it is customary to put only two passengers, at least during sleeping
+hours, and unless an unusual crowd requires otherwise.
+
+It was also on this train I made the acquaintance of a gentleman on his
+way to visit the Maharaja of Gwalior, and who was kind enough to ask me
+to accompany him. I told him that if he would secure me an invitation
+from the Maharaja I would be only too pleased to do so. Gwalior was a
+place on my itinerary anyway; to go there as a guest would secure me
+many advantages not attainable by the ordinary tourist. My friend said
+he would see the Maharaja at once and have my visit arranged for. A few
+days afterwards I received advice that it had been done, so on arrival
+at Gwalior I was met by one of the State carriages and conveyed to the
+Guest House, formerly the zenana, close to the palace, a very beautiful
+and handsome building, where an excellent staff of servants, capital
+meals, choice liquors and cigars, were at our free disposal. His
+Highness does not eat with his guests, but they are all put up in this
+building; and during big shoots, durbars, or festive occasions, the
+house is always full. At the time of my visit the few guests included
+two Scotch manufacturers, who had just effected large sales of machinery
+to the Maharaja, the one securing from him an order worth �60,000 for
+steam-breaking ploughs, the other an order of some �20,000 for pumping
+appliances. The Maharaja is a thoroughly progressive man, has an
+enormous revenue, and devotes a large part of it to the bringing into
+cultivation tracts of hitherto unbroken and unoccupied land, which no
+doubt will eventually increase his revenue and provide homesteads for
+his people. Sindia, as his name is, is a keen soldier, a keen sportsman,
+and most loyal to the British Raj. He moves about freely, wearing a
+rough tweed suit, is busy and occupied all day long, and though he has
+ministers and officials of all degrees, and keeps great state on
+occasion, his army numbering some 5000 men, he finds time to superintend
+the various departments of his Government, and to administer his State
+with a thoroughness uncommon among Indian potentates. The new palace is
+very beautiful and furnished in European manner, apparently quite
+regardless of expense. The crystal chandeliers in the reception-rooms
+are magnificent, and must alone represent fabulous sums. Near by the
+palace are a number of lions, now kept in proper cages, but I must say
+from the smell and filth not under very sanitary conditions. These lions
+he had imported from abroad and turned loose to furnish sport to his
+shooting friends; but they killed so many of the peasantry that they had
+to be recaptured and confined. The town of Lashkar, the State capital
+city, being reported full of plague, I was naturally careful in passing
+through. Nothing in it calls for comment, however. Gwalior Fort, on a
+high rocky plateau, has much historic interest. In it are the ancient
+palaces, still in fair condition but long ago abandoned, certain Jain
+temples covered with bas-relief carvings, tanks and many old ruins. The
+entrance is handsome and impressive. My friend and myself were supplied
+with an elephant, so we rode all over the immense fort, now almost
+silent, having only a small guard and a few other occupants. Altogether
+I enjoyed the visit very much, and after three or four days' stay
+returned to Agra. Everyone knows Agra, with its heavenly Taj-Mahal, its
+great fortress, its pearl mosque, its beautiful halls of audience and
+its palaces. It is truly sad to know that one of our former
+Governor-Generals actually proposed to tear down the Taj-Mahal so that
+he could use the marble for other purposes! Among these delights of
+architecture one could wander for days, ever with an unquenched greed
+for the charm of their beauties. One sees marbled trellis-work of
+exquisite design and execution, and inlaid flower wreaths and scrolls of
+red cornelian and precious stone, as beautiful in colour as graceful in
+form. Agra's cantonment avenues and parks are kept in excellent order.
+The temperature at the time of my visit was delightfully cool, and the
+hotel the best I had yet found in India. Fatepur Sikri, a royal city
+built by Akbar, only to be abandoned by him again, is near Agra, and
+possesses enough deserted palaces, mosques and other beautiful buildings
+to make it well worth a visit.
+
+There is, for instance, the great mosque, rival to the Taj-Mahal, the
+inside of which is entirely overlaid with mother-of-pearl.
+
+From Agra I went to Delhi, India's imperial city. In and around it are
+innumerable palaces, mosques, tombs and forts, each and all worthy of
+careful inspection; but I will only mention the Jama Musjid; inside the
+fort the Diwan-i-Am, wherein formerly stood the famous peacock throne;
+and the Diwan-i-Kas, at either end of which, over the outer arches, is
+the famous Persian inscription, "If Heaven can be on the face of the
+earth it is this! Oh, it is this! Oh, it is this!" In the city itself is
+the famous street called Chandni Chauk. North of the city is a district
+where the principal incidents of the siege took place, and there also is
+the plain devoted to imperial durbars and assemblages. South of the city
+are many celebrated tombs, such as those of Emperor Humayun, and of
+Tughlak; and the majestic Kutab Minar. Mutiny recollections of course
+enormously add to one's interest in Delhi, and many days may be
+agreeably passed in company with her other historic, tragic and romantic
+associations. At the time of my visit preparations were already
+beginning for the great Coronation Durbar to be held next winter. Most
+hotels and private houses have already been leased. What the general
+public will do for accommodation I do not know. One will almost
+necessarily, like the King, have to go under canvas. The Circuit House
+will only be used by His Majesty should bad weather prevail. The native
+rulers of every grade are going to make such a display of Oriental
+magnificence as was never seen before. To many it will be their ruin, or
+at least a serious crippling of their resources; but it is a chance for
+display that does not often occur and they seem determined to make the
+most of it.
+
+Here at Delhi the General and myself again joined forces, he and his
+wife having visited Lucknow and Cawnpore. We took train direct to
+Peshawar, via Rawal Pindi and Lahore. I never knew anyone who enjoyed
+foreign travel so much as my American friend. He was in a constant state
+of delight, finding interest and pleasure in small matters that never
+even attracted my attention, though as a rule my faculty for observation
+is by no means obtuse. In Burmah the bright-hued cupras of the natives
+filled him with intense joy, and the presence of some closely-screened
+native ladies on a ferryboat so held his gaze that his wife (and I
+suspect they were not long married) must have felt pangs of jealousy.
+But he was a keen soldier, and had frequently represented his country at
+the German and other manoeuvres, and had been Adjutant-General at the
+inauguration of President Roosevelt, a very honourable position indeed.
+So he was intensely interested in old forts and battlefields, and his
+enthusiasm while in Peshawar and the Khaiber Pass was boundless. More
+than that he was a strong Anglo-Phile, and amused me by his disparaging
+criticism on how his own Government did things in the Philippines and
+elsewhere, compared with what he saw in India and other British
+possessions. Peshawar is a very delightful place, or so at least it
+appeared to me. We lodged in a capital though small hotel. The climate
+was then very agreeable; the cantonment gardens and avenues are a
+paradise of beauty, at least compared with the surrounding dry and
+semi-barren country. In the native city one mixed with new races of
+people, Afghans and Asians, and picturesque and fierce-looking tribesmen
+from the hills. Also an immense number of camels, the only means of
+traffic communication with western and northern native states.
+
+But before arriving at Peshawar one must not forget to mention the
+magnificent view obtained from the car windows of the glorious range of
+Cashmere Snowy Mountains, showing peaks of 20,000 to 25,000 feet
+elevation; nor the crossing by a fortified railway bridge of the
+historic Indus River, near Attock, at the very spot where the Greek
+Alexander entered India on his campaign of conquest A mile above this
+point the Kabul River joins the Indus. Here too is a romantic-looking
+town and fortress built by the Emperor Akbar, still unimpaired and in
+occupation by British troops. The approaches to the bridge and fort are
+strongly guarded, emplacements for guns being noticeable at every
+vantage point on the surrounding hills, while ancient round towers and
+other fortifications tell of the troublous times and martial deeds this
+important position has been witness to.
+
+For our visit to the Khaiber Pass General Nixon, Commandant at Peshawar,
+put a carriage at our disposal, in which we drove as far as Jamrud, the
+isolated fort so often pictured in our illustrated papers, where we
+exchanged into tongas, in which to complete the journey through the pass
+as far as Ali Musjid. The pass is now patrolled by the Afridi Rifles, a
+corps composed of Afridi tribesmen commanded by British officers. At
+frequent intervals along the route these Afridi sentinels can be seen
+standing on silent guard on all commanding points of the hills. One sees
+numerous Afridi hamlets, though what the occupants find to support
+themselves with it is difficult to understand. A good carriage road
+continues all the way, in places steep enough and tortuous, as the rough
+broken nature of the country necessitates. By another road or trail,
+paralleling our own, a continuous string of camel caravans proceeds in
+single file at a leisurely gait, the animals loaded with merchandise for
+the Kabul market and others in Central Asia. It is a rough, desolate and
+uninteresting country, yet grand and beautiful in its way, and one is at
+once struck with the difficulties to be encountered by troops
+endeavouring to force their way through, commanded as the pass is at
+every turn by positions so admirably suited for guerrilla warfare and
+delightful possibilities for an enemy with sniping propensities. At Ali
+Musjid the camel and carriage tracks come together. Here at this little
+mosque was the point beyond which we were not allowed to proceed; so
+after a most interesting visit we returned to Peshawar. We were most
+fortunate in the weather, as the strong wind which always blows down the
+pass is in winter time generally excessively cold. At Peshawar I bade
+good-bye to my most agreeable American friends, the General being keen
+on visiting Quetta; whither, had it not been so much out of my own
+proposed line of travel, I would gladly have accompanied him. So my next
+move was back to Delhi, and thence by train via Jeypore to Udaipur, one
+of the most delightfully picturesque and interesting of all Indian
+native capitals. There is a tiny little hotel at Udaipur, outside the
+walls, showing that visiting tourists are few and far between. The
+Maharana holds by his old and established customs, and has none of the
+modern spirit shown by such princes as Sindia, the Nizam, and certain
+other native chiefs. He has, however, gone so far as to furnish his new
+palace in a most gorgeous manner, the chairs, tables, mirror frames,
+bedsteads seen in the State apartments being composed of crystal glass.
+The show attraction of the palace, in the eyes of the attendants, who
+were ever at one's beck and call, was a Teddy dog with wagging head,
+which miracle of miracles one seemed to be expected to properly marvel
+at. The old palace, adjoining the new, is a much finer building, being
+mostly of marble, and is purely Oriental in its stairways, doorways,
+closets, balconies and delightful roof-gardens, as one's preconceived
+notions expect an Eastern potentate's palace to be. The new palace
+showed no sign of occupancy, and I imagined the Maharana, then absent,
+really favours the older building, and small blame to him! Around in
+various places the State elephants are stabled, or rather chained, in
+the open air, and looked after by their numerous attendants. In the
+grand court in front were several of these animals, and a myriad of
+pigeons, protected by their sanctity, flew about in clouds, or perched
+on the projections of the palace walls. From a boat on the large and
+lovely lake, on whose very edge the commanding palace stands, a
+beautiful view is obtained. On islands in the lake two delightful little
+summer palaces are built, of white marble and luxuriously furnished
+within. Elephants were bathing themselves at the water's edge, and the
+roar of caged lions was heard from the neighbouring royal garden.
+Pea-fowl perched on the marble colonnade, and pigeons were circling and
+sailing in the glorious sunshine. What a sight! especially when evening
+drew in, and the setting sun lighted up the graceful cupolas and domes,
+and threw shadows round the towers and battlements, the whole reflected
+in the glassy surface of the water. At one place near by the wild pigs
+approached to be fed and some grand old fellows may be seen amongst
+them.
+
+[Illustration: PALACE OF MAJARANA OF UDAIPUR.]
+
+It is still the custom of nearly all men here above the rank of coolie
+to carry swords or other weapons. For are these Rajputs not of a proud
+and warlike race, as may be seen by their bearing; and is not their
+Maharana of the longest lineage in India, and the highest in rank of all
+the Rajput princes? A few miles from the capital is Chitorgarh. Here I
+saw the wonderful old fortress, with its noble entrance gate, and the
+ancient town of Chitor, once the capital of Mewar. Also the two imposing
+towers of Fame and Victory. Throughout the state one is struck by the
+great number of wild pea-fowl picking their way through the stubble just
+as pheasants do. The flesh of pea-fowl, which I have tasted, is
+excellent eating, surpassing that of the pheasant. One also sees numbers
+of a large grey, long-tailed monkey, which seem to preferably attach
+themselves to old and ruined temples or tombs. From here, Chitorgarh, I
+next took train to Bombay, passing through Rutlam, a great
+poppy-producing centre. At Baroda I received into my compartment the
+brother of the late Gaikwar (uncle of the present?). It had often
+occurred to me before to wonder how the high-class natives travel on the
+railways. Never had I yet seen a native enter a first-class compartment
+where there happened to be any Europeans. In this instance, at Baroda,
+I had noticed a man, apparently of consequence, judging by his
+attendants, evidently wanting to travel by this train. Soon one of the
+party approached, and almost humbly, it seemed more than politely, asked
+if I would have no objection to the company of the brother of the
+Gaikwar. Of course I said I could have no objection, and so we travelled
+together to Bombay. But what is the feeling between the two races that
+keeps them thus apart?
+
+Bombay surprised me more by the delightfully cold breeze then blowing
+than by anything else. I took a drive over Malabar Hill and saw the
+Parsee Towers of Silence, as they are popularly called. The immense Taj
+Hotel, where I stayed one night, by no means justifies its pretensions.
+Indeed, it is one of the poorest or worst in all India. Next day I
+started out for Hyderabad, and had a long, hot, slow twenty-four hours'
+journey; the principal crop noticed being to me the familiar Kafir corn.
+Yes, it was very hot and dusty. As usual, the train was packed with
+natives, but myself seemed to be the only European on board. Arrived at
+Hyderabad, I at once drove over to Secunderabad, a very large British
+cantonment and station. From here, missing the friends I had come to
+see, and there being nothing to specially interest otherwise, I again
+took train to Madras. A letter of introduction in my pocket to the
+Nizam's Prime Minister might have been useful in seeing the city had I
+presented it, but pressure of time induced me to push on; nor did I stop
+in Madras longer than to allow of a drive round the city, the heat being
+very great. Indeed, I was getting very tired of such hurried travel and
+sight-seeing, and was longing for a week's rest and quietude in the cool
+and pleasant highlands of Ceylon. My health also was now giving me some
+concern; so on again to Madura, _en route_ to Tuticorin, from whence a
+steamer would take me across to the land of spicy breezes. Madura has a
+wonderful old temple of immense size, surrounded by gopuras of pyramidal
+form, in whose construction huge stones of enormous dimensions were
+utilized; the temple also has much fine carving, etc. The old palace is
+of great beauty and interest.
+
+Colombo was, as usual, uncomfortably warm; only on the seashore at Galle
+Face could one get relief, and Galle Face with its excellent hotel is
+certainly a very delightful place. I did not stay in Colombo, but at
+once took train to visit Anauradapura and the dead cities of Ceylon.
+Here was the heart of a district ten miles in diameter, practically
+covered by the site and remains of the ancient city, which in its prime,
+about the beginning of the Christian era, ranked with Babylon and
+Nineveh in its dimensions, population and magnificence. Its walls
+included an area of 260 square miles. Among its ruins the most notable
+are the dagobas (pagodas), some of such enormous size that the number of
+bricks used in their construction baffles conception. One of the dagobas
+has a diameter of 327 feet and a height of 270. It is solidly built of
+bricks, and contains material enough to build a complete modern town of
+50,000 people. These Buddhist dagobas of Ceylon have the bell-shape
+form, and serve the same purpose as the Shwe Dagon in Rangoon, viz., to
+shelter relics of the Buddhas. Close by, within the walls of a Buddhist
+temple, or monastery, still grows the famous Bo or Pipal tree, the
+oldest living historical tree in the world, brought here 250
+B.C. from Buddh Gaya in India. Only a fragment of the original
+main trunk now exists, the various offshoots growing vigorously in the
+surrounding compound, all still guarded and attended by the priests as
+lovingly as when done 2200 years ago. At Anauradapura is a quite
+charming little Rest House, shaded and surrounded by beautiful tropical
+trees of great variety.
+
+From here I went to Kandy, the former capital of the native kings of
+that name. In the fourteenth century a temple was erected here to
+contain a tooth of Buddha and other relics. Later, the temple was sacked
+and the sacred tooth destroyed, but another to which was given similar
+attributes was put in its place. Kandy is a pretty spot, with a good
+hotel and agreeable climate, its elevation being 1800 feet above
+sea-level. Near by is Paradenia and the beautiful Botanical Gardens, in
+which it is a perfect delight to wander.
+
+We had already passed through a most lovely and picturesque country; but
+the grandest and most impressive scenery of Ceylon lies between Kandy
+and Newara Elia. Tea-gardens extend everywhere, and the cosy,
+neat-looking bungalows of the planters have a most attractive
+appearance. Newara Elia stands very high, some 7000 feet. Its vegetation
+is that of a temperate climate, and in the winter months the climate
+itself is ideal. The bracing atmosphere suggests golf and all other
+kinds of sport, and golfing there is of the very best kind. There is an
+excellent hotel, though I myself put up at the Hill Club. All Ceylon is
+beautiful, the roads are good, and many delightful excursions can be
+made. I do not think I ever saw a more beautiful country. But the
+sailing date draws near, so I must hurry down again to Colombo, and thus
+practically complete my second tour round the world. A P. & O. steamer
+brought us to Aden, the canal, Messina and Marseilles. We enjoyed lovely
+cool and calm weather all the way till near the end, when off the
+"balmy" coast of the Riviera we encountered bitter cold winds and stormy
+seas. And so through France to England, to the best country of them all,
+even though it be the land of coined currency bearing no testimony to
+its value; where registered letters may be receipted for by others than
+the addressee; and where butcher meat is freely exposed in the shops,
+and even outside, to all the filth that flies--my last fling at the dear
+old country.
+
+Someone has asked me which was the most beautiful place I had ever seen?
+It was impossible to answer. The whole world is beautiful! The barren
+desert, the boundless ocean, the mountain region and the flat country,
+even these monotonous Staked Plains of New Mexico, under storm or
+sunshine, all equally compel us to admiration and wonderment.
+
+In closing this somewhat higgledy-piggledy narrative, let me once more
+express my hope that readers will have found in it some entertainment,
+perhaps instruction, and possibly amusement.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX
+
+
+_Note I._--An outcry against Mormonism has been raised lately in this
+country. It is its polygamous character that has been attacked. But does
+polygamy deserve all that is said about it? It is not immoral and should
+not be criminal. Compare it with the very vicious modern custom of
+restricted families, which is immoral and should be criminal. Where is
+our population going to come from? The Chinese, Japanese, Indians and
+negroes are swarming all over the earth; while our race is almost
+stagnant, yet owning and claiming continents and islands practically
+unpeopled. Some day, possibly, polygamy will have to be permitted, even
+by the most civilized of nations.
+
+_Note II._--In this present year there is much writing and much talking
+about arbitration treaties and preferential tariffs. A general
+arbitration on _all_ matters between the United States and Great Britain
+is probably quite impracticable. Preferential tariff within the Empire
+would be highly advantageous to the Mother Country. If so, let us go for
+it while the opportunity offers. But it does seem to me there is a
+much-mistaken idea prevalent at home as to the loyalty of the Colonies
+and Dominions. One travels for information and should be allowed to give
+his conclusions. What holds these offshoots to the mother stem? Loyalty?
+I think not. Simply the realization that they are not (not yet) strong
+enough to stand alone: and it is the opinion of many that, as soon as
+they are, loyalty will be thrown to the winds; and naturally! (Since
+the above was written has it not been abundantly verified?) There is
+also even a belief (the wish being father to the thought) that the
+United States of America have a sentimental feeling for the Old Country;
+and one frequently hears the platform or banquet stock phrase, "Blood is
+thicker than water." It would be well if our people were enlightened
+with the truth. After twenty-five years' residence in the United States
+I will dare to say that the two nations are entirely foreign and
+antagonistic one to another. And it is a fortunate thing that between
+them few "Questions" remain to be arbitrated either by pen or sword. The
+two peoples do not understand one another, and do not try to. The
+ordinary English traveller does not meet or mix with the real American
+people, who are rapidly developing a civilization entirely their own, in
+social customs, in civil government, and even in fashions of dress.
+
+_Note III._--Might a just comparison not be drawn between these "dogies"
+and the type of men we now recruit for our standing Army? Are they not
+dogies? Is it not a fact that many of them never had a square meal in
+their lives! At least they look like it. But when taken up, if not while
+yet babies at least when they are still at a critical age of
+development, say eighteen years, and fed substantially and satisfyingly,
+as is now done in the Army, what an almost miraculous physical change
+takes place! And not only physical, but mental and moral, due to the
+influence of discipline and athletic exercises. If such be the effect on
+our few annual recruits, why not submit the whole young manhood of the
+nation to such beneficial conditions by the introduction of compulsory
+national military service? And not only that! Is not the private soldier
+of this country, alone of all others, refused admission to certain
+places of entertainment open to the public? Why? Because he is a
+hireling. Because no man of character or independence will adopt such a
+calling. He would degrade himself by doing so. But make the service
+compulsory to all men, and at once the calling becomes an honourable
+one. Can it be imagined for a moment that any of our raw recruits enter
+the service from a love for King and country? No; they sell their
+birthright for a red coat and a pittance, renounce their independence
+and stultify the natural ambition that should stimulate every man worthy
+of the name.
+
+Though our men do not have the initiative and self-resource of the
+Americans, still they are the smartest and best-set-up troops in the
+world. Many of them are of splendid physique and look like they could go
+anywhere and do anything. The whole world _was_ open to them; yet here
+they still are in the ranks, dummies and automatons, devoid of ambition
+and self-assertiveness.
+
+Only national service will rid us of the army of unemployables. It will
+develop them physically and mentally, and make men of them such as our
+Colonies will be glad and proud to admit to citizenship.
+
+
+  EDINBURGH
+  COLSTONS LIMITED
+  PRINTERS
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Ranching, Sport and Travel, by Thomas Carson
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+    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" />
+    <title>
+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of Ranching, Sport and Travel, by Thomas Carson, F.R.G.S..
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+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Ranching, Sport and Travel, by Thomas Carson
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Ranching, Sport and Travel
+
+Author: Thomas Carson
+
+Release Date: January 16, 2007 [EBook #20382]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RANCHING, SPORT AND TRAVEL ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Susan Skinner, Janet Blenkinship and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<p><br /><br /></p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/img-cover.jpg"  alt="cover" title="" /></div>
+<p><br /><br /></p>
+
+<p><a name="frontis" id="frontis"></a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="padding-top: 2em; padding-bottom: 2em;"><img src="images/imgfrontis2.jpg" alt="ONE OF THE BOYS." title="" /></div>
+
+<h4>ONE OF THE "BOYS." (Portrait. see page <a href='#Page_125'><b>125</b></a>.)<br /><br /></h4>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h1>RANCHING, SPORT AND TRAVEL</h1>
+
+<h4>BY</h4>
+
+<h2>THOMAS CARSON, F.R.G.S.</h2>
+
+<h3>WITH SIXTEEN ILLUSTRATIONS<br /><br /></h3>
+
+<blockquote><p class='center'>T. FISHER UNWIN</p>
+
+<p><span class="left">LONDON</span><span class="right">LEIPSIC</span><br /></p>
+<p><span class="left">Adelphi Terrace</span><span class="right">Inselstrasse 20</span><br /></p>
+
+
+<p class='center'>1911</p></blockquote>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><br /><a name="INTRODUCTORY_NOTE" id="INTRODUCTORY_NOTE"></a>INTRODUCTORY NOTE</h2>
+
+
+<blockquote><p>This book is somewhat in the nature of an autobiography, covering as it
+does almost the whole of the Author's life. The main portion of the
+volume is devoted to cattle ranching in Arizona, New Mexico and Texas.
+The Author has also included a record of his travels abroad, which he
+hopes will prove to be not uninteresting; and a chapter devoted to a
+description of tea planting in India.<br /></p></blockquote>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2>
+
+
+
+
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="1" width="60%" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><th align='left'>CHAP.</th><th align='right'>PAGE</th></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>I. Tea Planting</th><td align='right'><a href='#Page_13'><b>13</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>In Cachar&mdash;Apprenticeship&mdash;Tea Planting</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>described&mdash;Polo&mdash;In Sylhet&mdash;Pilgrims at Sacred</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Pool&mdash;Wild Game&mdash;Amusements&mdash;Rainfall&mdash;Return to</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cachar&mdash;Scottpore&mdash;Snakes&mdash;A Haunted Tree&mdash;Hill</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Tribes&mdash;Selecting a Location&mdash;Return to England.</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>II. Cattle Ranching in Arizona</th><td align='right'><a href='#Page_42'><b>42</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Leave for United States of America&mdash;Iowa&mdash;New</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Mexico&mdash;Real Estate Speculation&mdash;Gambling&mdash;Billy the</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Kid&mdash;Start Ranching in Arizona&mdash;Description of</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Country&mdash;Apache and other Indians&mdash;Fauna&mdash;Branding</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cattle&mdash;Ranch Notes&mdash;Mexicans&mdash;Politics&mdash;Summer</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Camp&mdash;Winter Camp&mdash;Fishing and Shooting&mdash;Indian Troubles.</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>III. Cattle Ranching in Arizona (<i>continued</i>)</th><td align='right'><a href='#Page_81'><b>81</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Cowboy&mdash;Accoutrements and Weapons&mdash;Desert</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Plants&mdash;Politics and</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Perjury&mdash;Mavericks&mdash;Mormons&mdash;Bog Riding.</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>IV. Odds and Ends</th><td align='right'><a href='#Page_103'><b>103</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Scent and Instinct&mdash;Mules&mdash;Roping</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Contests&mdash;Antelopes&mdash;The Skunk&mdash;Garnets&mdash;Leave</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Arizona.</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>V. Ranching in New Mexico</th><td align='right'><a href='#Page_117'><b>117</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Scottish Company&mdash;My Difficulties and Dangers&mdash;Mustang</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Hunting&mdash;Round-up described&mdash;Shipping Cattle&mdash;Railroad</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Accidents&mdash;Close out Scotch Company's Interests.</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>VI. Odds and Ends</th><td align='right'><a href='#Page_152'><b>152</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Summer Round-up Notes&mdash;Night Guarding&mdash;Stampedes&mdash;Bronco</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Busting&mdash;Cattle Branding, etc.</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>VII. On my own Ranch</th><td align='right'><a href='#Page_170'><b>170</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Locating&mdash;Plans&mdash;Prairie Fires and</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Guards&mdash;Bulls&mdash;Trading&mdash;Successful</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Methods&mdash;Loco-weed&mdash;Sale of Ranch.</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>VIII. Odds and Ends</th><td align='right'><a href='#Page_198'><b>198</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The "Staked Plains"&mdash;High Winds&mdash;Lobo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Wolves&mdash;Branding&mdash;Cows&mdash;Black Jack&mdash;Lightning and</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Hail&mdash;Classing Cattle&mdash;Conventions&mdash;"Cutting" versus</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Polo&mdash;Bull-Fight&mdash;Prize-Fights&mdash;River and Sea</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Fishing&mdash;Sharks.</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>IX. In Amarillo</th><td align='right'><a href='#Page_226'><b>226</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Purchase of Lots&mdash;Building&mdash;Boosting a Town.</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>X. First Tour Abroad</th><td align='right'><a href='#Page_234'><b>234</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Mexico&mdash;Guatemala&mdash;Salvador&mdash;Panama&mdash;Colombia&mdash;Venezuela</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&mdash;Jamaica&mdash;Cuba&mdash;Fire in Amarillo&mdash;Rebuilding.</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>XI. Second Tour Abroad</th><td align='right'><a href='#Page_250'><b>250</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bermudas&mdash;Switzerland&mdash;Italy&mdash;Monte</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Carlo&mdash;Algiers&mdash;Morocco&mdash;Spain&mdash;Biarritz and Pau.</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>XII. Third Tour Abroad</th><td align='right'><a href='#Page_256'><b>256</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Salt Lake</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>City&mdash;Canada&mdash;Vancouver&mdash;Hawaii&mdash;Fiji&mdash;Australia&mdash;New</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Zealand&mdash;Tasmania&mdash;Summer at Home.</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>XIII. Fourth Tour Abroad</th><td align='right'><a href='#Page_270'><b>270</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Yucatan&mdash;Honduras&mdash;Costa</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Rica&mdash;Panama&mdash;Equador&mdash;Peru&mdash;Chile&mdash;Argentina&mdash;Brazil&mdash;Teneriffe.</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>XIV. Fifth Tour Abroad</th><td align='right'><a href='#Page_287'><b>287</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>California&mdash;Honolulu&mdash;Japan&mdash;China&mdash;Singapore&mdash;Burmah&mdash;India&mdash;Ceylon&mdash;The</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>End.</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>Appendix</th><td align='right'><a href='#Page_317'><b>317</b></a></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+
+
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="List of Illustrations">
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">One of the "Boys"</span> (<i>see</i> page <a href='#Page_125'><b>125</b></a>)</td><td align='right'><a href='#frontis'><b><i>Frontispiece</i></b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Plucking Tea Leaf</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_20'><b>20</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Nagas</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_37'><b>37</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Roping a Grizzly</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_70'><b>70</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">A Shooting Scrape</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_76'><b>76</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">One of our Men, to show hang of Six-Shooter</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_78'><b>78</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">1883 in Arizona, Author and Party</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_80'><b>80</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Wound Up, Horse tangled in Rope</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_106'><b>106</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Watering a Herd</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_116'><b>116</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Herd on Trail, showing Lead Steer</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_137'><b>137</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Changing Horses</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_153'><b>153</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">A Real Bad One</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_164'><b>164</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Breaking the Prairie</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_230'><b>230</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">First Crop&mdash;Milo Maize</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img013'><b>230</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Llamas as Pack Animals</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_279'><b>279</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Drifting Sand Dune, One of Thousands</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img015'><b>279</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Peruvian Ruins. Note Dimensions of Stones and Locking System</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#img016'><b>281</b></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Palace of Maharana of Udaipur</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_310'><b>310</b></a></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><br /><br /><a name="RANCHING_SPORT_AND_TRAVEL" id="RANCHING_SPORT_AND_TRAVEL"></a>RANCHING, SPORT AND TRAVEL<br /><br /></h2>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I</h2>
+
+<h3>TEA PLANTING</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>In Cachar&mdash;Apprenticeship&mdash;Tea Planting described&mdash;Polo&mdash;In
+Sylhet&mdash;Pilgrims at Sacred Pool&mdash;Wild
+Game&mdash;Amusements&mdash;Rainfall&mdash;Return to Cachar&mdash;Scottpore&mdash;Snakes&mdash;A
+Haunted Tree&mdash;Hill Tribes&mdash;Selecting a Location&mdash;Return to England.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>Having no inclination for the seclusion and drudgery of office work,
+determined to lead a country life of some kind or other, and even then
+having a longing desire to roam the world and see foreign countries, I
+had arranged to accompany a friend to the Comoro Islands, north of
+Madagascar; but changing my mind and accepting the better advice of
+friends, my start was made, not to the Comoro Islands, but to India and
+the tea district of Cachar. Accordingly the age of twenty-two and the
+year 1876 saw me on board a steamer bound for Calcutta.</p>
+
+<p>Steamers were slow sailers in those days, and it was a long trip via
+Gibraltar, Suez, Malta, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> Canal and Point de Galle; but it was all
+very interesting to me.</p>
+
+<p>Near Point de Galle we witnessed from the steamer a remarkable sight, a
+desperate fight, it seemed to be a fight and not play, between a
+sea-serpent, which seemed to be about fifteen feet long, and a huge ray.
+The battle was fought on the surface of the water and even out of it, as
+the ray several times threw himself into the air. How it ended we could
+not see. Anyway we had seen the sea-serpent, though not the fabulous
+monster so often written about, and yet whose existence cannot be
+disproved. The sea-serpent's tail is flattened.</p>
+
+<p>At Calcutta I visited a tea firm, who sent me up to Cachar to help at
+one of the gardens till a vacancy should occur. Calcutta, by the way, is
+or was overrun by jackals at night. They are the scavengers of the town
+and hunt in packs through the streets, their wolfish yelling being a
+little disconcerting to a stranger.</p>
+
+<p>It was a long twelve days, but again a very interesting journey, in a
+native river boat, four rowers (or towers), to my destination. I had a
+servant with me, who proved a good, efficient cook and attendant. It was
+rather trying to the "griffin" to notice, floating in the river, corpses
+of natives, frequently perched upon by hungry vultures.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The tea-garden selected for me was Narainpore, successfully managed by a
+fellow-countryman, who proved to be a capital chap and who made my stay
+with him very pleasant. Narainpore was one of the oldest gardens, on
+teelah (hilly) land and quite healthy. There I gave what little help I
+could, picked up some of the lingo, and learned a good deal about the
+planting, growth and manufacture of tea. Neighbours were plentiful and
+life quite sociable. Twice a week in the cold weather we played polo,
+sometimes with Munipoories, a hill tribe whose national game it is, and
+who were then the undoubted champions. The Regent Senaputti was a keen
+player, and very picturesque in his costume of green velvet zouave
+jacket, salmon-pink silk dhotee and pink silk turban. In Munipoor even
+the children have their weekly polo matches. They breed ponies specially
+for the game, and use them for nothing else, nor would they sell their
+best. Still, we rode Munipoor "tats" costing us from 50 rupees to 100.
+They were exceedingly small, averaging not eleven hands high, but wiry,
+active, speedy, full of grit, and seemed to love the game. As the game
+was there played, seven formed a side, the field was twice as large as
+now and there were no goals. The ball had to be simply driven over the
+end line to count a score.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>It may be remarked here that the great Akbar was so fond of polo, but
+otherwise so busy, that he played the game at night with luminous balls.</p>
+
+<p>These Munipoories were a very fine race of people, much lighter of
+colour than their neighbouring tribes, very stately and dignified in
+their bearing, and thorough sportsmen. Many of their women were really
+handsome, and the girls, with red hibiscus blossoms stuck in their
+jet-black hair, and their merry, laughing faces and graceful figures,
+were altogether quite attractive to the Sahib Log.</p>
+
+<p>But to return to tea. Our bungalow was of the usual type, consisting of
+cement floor, roof of crossed bamboos and two feet of sun-grass thatch,
+supported by immense teak posts, hard as iron and bidding defiance to
+the white ants. The walls were of mats. Tea-gardens usually had a
+surface of 300 to 1000 acres; some were on comparatively level ground,
+some on hilly (teelah) land. These teelahs were always carefully
+terraced to prevent the wash of soil and permit cultivation. The plants
+were spaced about three to six feet apart, according to whether they
+were of the Chinese, the hybrid, or the pure indigenous breed, the last
+being the largest, in its native state developing to the dimensions of a
+small tree.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I may as well here at once give a short sketch of the principal features
+of tea planting and manufacture, which will show what the duties of a
+planter are, and how various are the occupations and operations
+embraced. One must necessarily first have labour (coolies). These are
+recruited in certain districts of India, usually by sending good
+reliable men, already in your employ, to their home country, under a
+contract to pay them so much a head for every coolie they can persuade
+(by lies or otherwise) to come to your garden. The coolies must then
+bind themselves to work for you for, say, three to four years. They are
+paid for their work, not much it is true, but enough to support them
+with comfort; the men about three annas (or fourpence) a day, the women
+two annas (or threepence). As they get to know their work and become
+expert, the good men will earn as much as six annas a day, and some of
+the women, when plucking leaf, about the same. This is more than
+abundant for these people. They not only have every comfort, but they
+become rich, so that in a few years they are able to rest on their
+earnings, and work only at their convenience and when they feel like it.
+They are supplied with nothing, neither food nor clothing; medicine
+alone is free to them. The native staff of a garden consists of, say,
+two baboos, or book-keepers and clerks, a doctor<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> baboo, sirdars or
+overseers, and chowkidars or line watchmen. A sirdar accompanies and has
+charge of each gang of coolies on whatever branch of work. One is also
+in charge of the factory or tea-house.</p>
+
+<p>Plant growth ceases about the end of October. Then cold-weather work
+begins, including the great and important operation of pruning, which
+requires a large force and will occupy most of the winter. Also
+charcoal-burning for next season's supply; road-making, building and
+repairing, jungle-cutting, bridge-building, and nursery-making: that is,
+preparing with great care beds in which the seed will be planted early
+in spring. Cultivation is also, of course, carried on; it can never be
+overdone. In the factory, some men are busy putting together or
+manufacturing new tea-boxes, lining them carefully with lead, which
+needs close attention, as the smallest hole in the lining of a tea-chest
+will cause serious injury to the contents.</p>
+
+<p>When spring opens and the first glorious "flush" is on the bushes, there
+is a readjustment of labour. Pluckers begin to gather the leaf, and as
+the season advances more pluckers are needed, till possibly every man,
+woman and child may be called on for this operation alone, it being so
+important that the leaf flush does not get ahead and out of control, so
+that the leaf<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> would get tough and hard and less fit for manufacture;
+but cultivation is almost equally important, and every available
+labourer is kept hard at it.</p>
+
+<p>What a pleasure it is to watch a good expert workman, be he carpenter,
+bricklayer, ploughman, blacksmith, or only an Irish navvy. In even the
+humblest of these callings the evidence of much training, practice or
+long apprenticeship is noticeable. To an amateur who has tried such work
+himself it will soon be apparent how crude his efforts are, how little
+he knows of the apparently simple operation. The navvy seems to work
+slowly; but he knows well, because his task is a day-long one, that his
+forces must be economised, that over-exertion must be avoided. This
+lesson was brought home to me when exasperated by the seeming laziness
+of the coolie cultivators, I would seize a man's hoe and fly at the
+work, hoe vigorously for perhaps five minutes, swear at the man for his
+lack of strenuousness, then retire and find myself puffing and blowing
+and almost in a state of collapse.</p>
+
+<p>If an addition or extension is being made to the garden, the already cut
+jungle has to be burnt and the ground cleared in early spring, the soil
+broken up and staked: that is, small sticks put in regular rows and
+intervals to show where the young plants are to be put. Then<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> when the
+rains have properly set in the actual planting begins. This is a work
+that requires a lot of labour and close and careful superintendence.
+Imagine what it means to plant out 100 acres of ground, the plants set
+only three or four feet apart! The right plucking of the leaf calls for
+equally careful looking after. The women are paid by the amount or
+weight they pluck, so they are very liable to pluck carelessly and so
+damage the succeeding flush, or they may gather a lot of old leaf
+unsuited for manufacturing purposes. In short, every detail of work,
+even cultivation, demands close supervision and the whole attention of
+the planter.</p>
+
+<p>When the new-plucked leaf is brought home it is spread out to wither in
+suitably-built sheds. (Here begins the tea-maker's responsibility.) Then
+it must be rolled, by hand or by machinery; fermented, and fired or
+dried over charcoal ovens; separated in its different classes, the
+younger the leaf bud the more valuable the tea. It is then packed in
+boxes for market, and sampled by the planter. He does this by weighing a
+tiny quantity of each class or grade of tea into separate cups, pouring
+boiling water on them, and then tasting the liquor by sipping a little
+into the mouth, not to be swallowed, but ejected again.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+ <a name="img001" id="img001"></a>
+<div class="center" style="padding-top: 2em; ">
+
+<img src="images/img001.jpg"
+     alt="PLUCKING TEA LEAF."
+    title="PLUCKING TEA LEAF." />
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<h4>PLUCKING TEA LEAF.</h4>
+
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>All this will give an idea of the variety of duties of a tea-planter. He
+has no time for shooting, polo, or visiting during the busy season. But
+at mid-winter the great annual Mela takes place at the station, the
+local seat of Government. The Mela lasts a couple of weeks, and it is a
+season of fun and jollity with both planters and natives. There were two
+or three social clubs in Silchar; horse and pony racing, polo, cricket
+and football filled the day, dinner and sociability the night; and what
+nights! The amount of liquor consumed at these meetings was almost
+incredible.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing can look more beautiful or more gratifying to the eye of the
+owner than a tract of tea, pruned level as a table and topped with new
+fresh young leaf-shoots, four to eight inches high, in full flush, ready
+for the pluckers' nimble fingers.</p>
+
+<p>At the end of one year I was offered and accepted the position of
+assistant at a Sylhet garden, called Kessoregool, the property
+consisting of three distinct gardens, the principal one being directly
+overseered by the manager, an American. He, of course, was my superior.
+My charge was the Lucky Cherra Gardens, some few miles away. There I
+spent two years, learning what I could of the business, but without the
+advantage of European society; in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> fact, the Burra Sahib and myself were
+almost the only whites in the district, and as he was drunk quite half
+the time, and we did not pull very well together, I was left to my own
+resources. I found amusement in various ways. There was no polo, but
+some of the native zemindars (landed proprietors) were always ready to
+get up a beat for leopards, tigers, deer and pig. Their method was
+simply to drive the game into a net corral and spear them to death. The
+Government Keddas, under Colonel Nuttal, were also not far away in hill
+Tipperah, and it was intensely interesting to watch operations. Close to
+my garden also was a sacred pool and a very beautiful waterfall. This
+was visited twice a year by immense numbers of natives, some from great
+distances, for it was a famous and renowned place of pilgrimage. It
+could only be approached through my garden; and as there was no wagon
+road, the pilgrims were always open to inspection, so to speak; and they
+were well worth inspection, as among them were many races, all ages,
+both sexes, every caste or jat; robes, turbans and cupras of every shape
+and colour; fakirs and wonder-workers, and beggars galore. Here, and on
+such an occasion only, could the sahib see face to face the harems of
+the wealthy natives, consisting of women who at no other time showed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span>
+themselves out of doors. Being the only sahib present I had all the "fun
+of the fair" to myself, but always regretted the want of a companion to
+share it with me.</p>
+
+<p>As to wild game, there were lots of jungle fowl (original stock of our
+familiar barn-door cocks and hens), a few pigeons, Argus pheasants,
+small barking deer, pigs, sambur, barrasingha, metnas, crocodiles,
+leopards, tigers, bears and elephants; but I had little time for
+shooting and it was expensive work, the jungle being so thick that
+riding elephants were quite necessary. If keen enough, one could sit all
+night on a machan in a tree near a recent "kill," on the chance of
+Stripes showing himself; but it never appealed to me much, that kind of
+sport. If a tiger was raiding the cattle I would poison the "kill" with
+strychnine. In this way I secured several very fine animals, getting two
+at one time, so successfully poisoned that their bodies actually lay on
+the dead bullock. One time I shot an enormous python, some eighteen feet
+in length, which took several men to carry home. Monkeys were plentiful
+and of several kinds. I was very fond of wandering amongst the high-tree
+jungle and quietly watching their antics. In the dense forest there is
+little undergrowth, so that one can move about freely and study the
+extraordinary forms of vegetation displayed. Ticks<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> and leeches are to
+be dreaded&mdash;a perfect nuisance. If you sit down or pause for a few
+moments where no leeches are in sight, suddenly and quickly they will
+appear marching on you, or at you, at a gallop.</p>
+
+<p>The popular idea of a wealth of flowers in tropical jungles is a
+misconception. In tree jungle no flowers are to be found, or at any rate
+they are not visible. But if one can by some means attain an elevation
+and so be able to overlook the tree-tops, he will probably be rewarded
+with a wonderful display, as many jungle trees are glorified with crowns
+of gorgeous colours. There will he also discover the honey-suckers,
+moths, butterflies, the beetles, and all the other insect brood which he
+had also vainly looked for before. The fruits are likewise borne aloft,
+and therefore at the proper time these tree-tops will be the haunt of
+the monkeys, the parrots, the bats, the toucans, and all frugivorous
+creation.</p>
+
+<p>Of all fruits the durian is the most delicious. Such is the universal
+opinion of men, including A. R. Wallace, who have had the opportunity of
+becoming familiar with it. It is purely tropical, grows on a lofty tree,
+is round and nearly as large as a cocoanut. A thick and tough rind
+protects the delicacy contained within. When opened five cells are
+revealed, satiny white,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> containing masses of cream-coloured pulp. This
+pulp is the edible portion and has an indescribable flavour and
+consistence. You can safely eat all you want of it, and the more you eat
+the more you will want. To eat durian, as Mr Wallace says, is alone
+worth a voyage to the East. But it has one strange quality&mdash;it smells so
+badly as to be at first almost nauseating; some people even can never
+bring themselves to touch it. Once this repulsion is mastered the fruit
+will probably be preferred to all other foods. The natives give it
+honourable titles, exalt it, and even wax poetical over it.</p>
+
+<p>Of course we all know the multitudinous uses of the bamboo. This grass
+is one of the most wonderful, beautiful and useful of Nature's gifts to
+uncivilized man. And yet one more use has been found for it. In the East
+a new industry has sprung up, viz., the making of "Panama" hats of
+bamboo strips or threads. In texture and pliability these hats are said
+to even surpass the genuine "Panamas," are absolutely impervious to
+rain, and can be produced at a much lower cost.</p>
+
+<p>The Looshais killed pigs, and even tigers, by ingeniously setting
+poisoned arrows in the woods, which were released by the animals
+pressing on a string. One of my coolies was unfortunate enough to be
+shot and killed in this way.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Growing on decayed tree stumps I frequently found a saprophyte
+(<i>hymenophallus</i>), much larger than its English representative, indeed a
+monster in comparison, and possessing a vile and most odious smell, yet
+attractive to certain depraved insects.</p>
+
+<p>I made a very fine collection of butterflies, moths and beetles, which,
+however, was entirely destroyed by worms or ants during its passage to
+England. The magnificent Atlas moth was common in Sylhet and Cachar.
+What an extraordinarily beautiful creature it is, sometimes so large as
+to cover a dinner-plate. I never was privileged to see it fly. It seemed
+to be always in a languid or torpid condition.</p>
+
+<p>Thunderstorms occur almost daily during the wet season. By lightning I
+lost several people. In one case, whilst standing watching a man remove
+seedlings from a nursery bed, standing indeed immediately behind and
+close to him, there came a thrilling flash of lightning. It shook myself
+as well as several women who stood by. The man in front of me, who had
+been sitting on his haunches with a steel-ribbed umbrella over him,
+remained silent and still. At last I called on him to continue his work
+and pulled back the umbrella to see his face. He was stone dead.
+Examination showed a small blackish spot where the steel rib had rested
+and conveyed the fatal shock.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The approach of the daily rainstorm, usually about noon, was a
+remarkable sight. Immense fan-shaped, thunderous-looking clouds would
+come rolling up, billow upon billow, travelling at great speed and
+accompanied by terrific wind. A flash of lightning and a crashing peal
+of thunder and the deluge began, literally a deluge. The rainfall
+averaged about 180 inches in seven months. At Cherrapunji, in the Kassia
+Hills, within sight of my place and only about twenty miles distant, the
+rainfall was and is the greatest in the world, no other district
+approaching it in this respect, viz., averaging per annum 450 inches;
+greatest recorded over 900 inches; and there is a record of <i>one</i> month,
+July, of a fall of nearly 400 inches; yet all this precipitation takes
+place during the six or seven wet months, the rest of the year being
+absolutely dry and rainless. These measurements are recorded at the
+Government Observatory Station and need not be disputed. It may readily
+be supposed that the wet season, summer, with its high temperature and
+damp atmosphere, was very trying to the European, and even to the
+imported coolies. Imagine living for six continuous months in the
+hottest palm-house in Kew Gardens; yet the planter is out and about all
+day long; nearly always on pony back, however, an enormously thick solah
+toppee hat or a heavy white<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> umbrella protecting his head. The dry, or
+cold season, however, was delightful.</p>
+
+<p>Close to Lucky Cherra Garden was a tract of bustee land on which some
+Bengali cultivators grew rice and other crops. Our Company's boundary
+line in some way conflicted with theirs, and a dispute arose which soon
+developed into a series of, first, most comical mix-ups, and afterwards
+into desperate "lathi" fights. The land in dispute was being hurriedly
+ploughed by buffalo teams belonging to the Bengalis; to uphold our claim
+I also secured teams and put them to ploughing on the same piece of
+ground. This could only lead to one thing&mdash;as said before, terrific
+lathi fights between the teamsters. For several days I went down to see
+the fun, taking with me a number of the stoutest coolies on the garden.
+The men seemed to rather enjoy the sport, though a lick from a lathi (a
+formidable tough, hard and heavy cane) was far from a joke. Finally the
+bustee-wallahs agreed to stop operations and await legal judgment.</p>
+
+<p>After eighteen months I was suddenly left in sole charge of all the
+Company's gardens, the Burra Sahib having finally succumbed to drink;
+but I was not long left in charge, being soon relieved by a more
+experienced man. Shortly after I was ordered to Scottpore Garden in
+Cachar, the manager of which, a particularly fine<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> man and a great
+friend of mine, had suffered the awful death of being pierced by the
+very sharp end of a heavy, newly-cut bamboo, which he seems to have
+ridden against in the dark. He always rode at great speed, and he too,
+in this way, was a victim of drink. The tremendously high death-rate
+amongst planters was directly due to this fatal habit.</p>
+
+<p>Scottpore was a new (young) garden, not teelah, but level land, having
+extremely rich soil. The bushes showed strong growth and there were no
+"vacancies"; indeed it was a model plantation. Unfortunately, it had the
+character of extreme unhealthiness. Of my three predecessors two had
+died of fever and one as before mentioned. The coolie death-rate was
+shocking; so bad that, during my management, a Government Commission was
+sent to look into the situation, and the absolute closing of the garden
+was anticipated. The result was that I was debarred from recruiting and
+importing certain coolies from certain districts in India, they being
+peculiarly susceptible to fever and dysentery. Almost every day at
+morning muster the doctor reported so and so, or so many, dead, wiped
+off the roll. Naturally the place suffered from lack of labour, a
+further draining of the force being the absconding of coolies, running
+off, poor devils, to healthier places, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> the stealing of my people by
+unscrupulous planters.</p>
+
+<p>On several occasions, when riding home on dark nights, have I detected
+white objects on the side of the road. Not a movement would be seen, not
+a sound or a breath heard, only an ominous, suspicious silence reigned;
+it meant that these were some of my people absconding, being perhaps led
+off by a pimp from another garden&mdash;and woe betide the pimp if caught. I
+would call out to them, and if they did not respond would go after them;
+but generally they were too scared to resist or to attempt further to
+escape; so I would drive them in front of me back to the garden, inspect
+them and take their names, try to find out who had put them up to it,
+etc., and dismiss them to the lines in charge of the night-watchman. You
+could not well punish them, though a good caning was administered
+sometimes to the men. Thus the plantation, instead of presenting a
+clean, well-cultivated appearance, had often that of an enormous
+hayfield; nevertheless the output and manufacture of tea was large and
+the quality good. All that I myself could and did take credit for was
+this "quality," as the prices obtained in Calcutta were the best of all
+the Company's gardens.</p>
+
+<p>At Scottpore there was no lack of neighbours.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> My bungalow was on two
+cross-roads, a half-way house so to speak; consequently someone was
+continually dropping in. Frequently three or four visitors would arrive
+unannounced for dinner; the house was always "wide open." Whisky, brandy
+and beer were always on the sideboard, and in my absence the bearer or
+khansamah was expected, as a matter of course, to offer refreshments to
+all comers. The planter's code of hospitality demanded this, but it was
+the financial ruin of the Chota Sahib, depending solely on his modest
+salary.</p>
+
+<p>At Scottpore I went in strong for vegetable, fruit and flower gardening,
+and not without success. Visitors came from a distance to view the
+flower-beds and eat my green peas, and I really think that I grew as
+fine pineapples and bananas as were produced anywhere. The pineapple of
+good stock and ripened on the plant is, I think, the most exquisite of
+all fruits. A really ripe pine contains no fibre. You cut the top off
+and sup the delicious mushy contents with a spoon.</p>
+
+<p>In such a hot, steamy climate as we had in these tea districts, the
+rapidity of growth of vegetation is, of course, remarkable. Bamboos
+illustrate this better than other plants, their growth being so much
+more noticeable, that of a young shoot amounting to as much as four<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span>
+inches in one night. It sometimes appeared to my imagination that the
+weeds and grass grew one foot in a like period, especially when short of
+labour. The planter usually takes a pride in the well-cultivated
+appearance of the garden in his charge; but how can one be proud if the
+weeds overtop the bushes? It may be appropriate here to note that
+eighty-five per cent. of the twenty-four hours' growth of plants occurs
+between 12 p.m. and 6 a.m.; during the noon hours the apparent growth
+almost entirely ceases.</p>
+
+<p>Garden coolies are generally Hindoos and are imported from far-off
+districts. The local peasantry of Bengal are mostly Mohammedans and do
+not work on tea-gardens, except on such jobs as cutting jungle,
+building, etc. They speak a somewhat different tongue, so that we had to
+understand Bengali as well as Hindustani. I may mention here that as
+Hindoos regard an egg as defiling, and Mohammedans despise an eater of
+pork, our love for ham and eggs alienates us from both these classes;
+what beasts we must be! The Hindoos and the Bengal Mussulmans are
+characterized by cringing servility, open insolence, or rude
+indifference. Contrast with this the Burmese agreeableness and
+affability, or the bearing of the Rajput and the Sikh. In those days the
+natives cringed before the Sahib Log much more than they do now. Then
+all had to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> put their umbrellas down on passing a sahib, and all had to
+leave the side-walk on the white man's approach; not that the law
+compelled them to do so, it was simply a custom enforced by their
+masters, in the large cities as well as in the mofussil.</p>
+
+<p>We thought it advisable at all costs to keep the coolies in a proper
+state of subjection. Thus, when on a certain occasion a coolie of mine
+raised his kodalie (hoe) to strike me I had to give him a very severe
+thrashing. Another time a man appeared somewhat insolent in his talk to
+me and I unfortunately hit him a blow on the body, from the effects of
+which he died next day. Some of these people suffer from enlarged
+spleens and even a slight jar on that part of their anatomy may prove
+fatal.</p>
+
+<p>A few more notes. Among the Sontals in Bengal the snake stone, found
+within the head of the Adjutant-bird, is applied to a snake bite exactly
+in the same way and with the same supposed results as the Texas
+madstone, an accretion found, it is said, in the system of a white stag.
+Many natives of India die from purely imaginary snake bites.</p>
+
+<p>In Oude there have been many instances verified, or at least impossible
+of contradiction, of so-called wolf-children, infants stolen by wolves
+and suckled by them, that go on all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> fours, eat only raw meat, and, of
+course, speak no language.</p>
+
+<p>The Nagas, a hill tribe and not very desirable neighbours, practise the
+refined custom of starving a dog, then supplying it with an enormous
+feed of rice; and when the stomach is properly distended, killing it,
+the half-digested mess forming the <i>bonne-bouche</i> of the tribal feast.</p>
+
+<p>Snake stories are always effective. I have none to tell. My bungalow
+roof, the thatch, was at all times infested by snakes, some quite large.
+At night one frequently heard them gliding between the bamboos and
+grass, chasing mice, beetles, or perhaps lizards, and sometimes falling
+on the top of the mosquito bar, or even on the dinner-table; but these
+were probably harmless creatures, as most snakes are. The cobra was not
+common in Cachar. It may be said here that a snake's mouth opens
+crossways as well as vertically, and each side has the power of working
+independently, the teeth being re-curved backwards. Prey once in the
+jaws cannot escape, and the snake itself can only dispose of it in one
+way&mdash;downwards.</p>
+
+<p>At Scottpore I employed an elephant for certain work, such as hauling
+heavy posts out of the jungle. Sometimes his "little Mary" would trouble
+him, when a dose of castor oil would be effectively administered.
+Unfortunately, he mis<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span>behaved, ran amok, and tried to kill his mahout,
+and so that hatthi (elephant) had to be disposed of.</p>
+
+<p>When clearing jungle for a tea-garden the workmen sometimes come on a
+certain species of tree, of which they are in great dread. They cannot
+be induced to cut it down and so the tree remains. Such a one stood
+opposite my bungalow, a stately, handsome monarch of the forest. It was
+a sacred, or rather a haunted tree, but as its shade was injurious to
+tea-plant growth I was determined to have it destroyed. None of my
+people would touch it; so I sent over to a neighbour and explained the
+facts to him, requesting him to send over a gang of his men to do the
+deed. I was to see that they had no communication with my own people.
+Well, his men came and were put to work with axes. The result? Two of
+them died that day and the rest bolted. Yet this is not more
+extraordinary than people dying of imaginary snake bites.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly afterwards an incident occurred to still further strengthen the
+native belief that the tree was haunted. I had a very fine bull terrier
+which slept in the porch at night, the night-watchman also sleeping
+there. One time I was aroused by terrific yells from the dog, and called
+to the watchman to know the trouble. After apparently recovering from
+his fright he told me the devil<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> had come from the tree and carried off
+the dog. The morning showed traces of a tiger's or leopard's pugs, and
+my poor terrier was of course never seen again.</p>
+
+<p>The hill tribes surrounding the valley of Cachar were the Kassias,
+Nagas, Kookies, Munipoories and Looshais, all of very similar type,
+except that the Munipoories were of somewhat lighter skin, were more
+civilized and handsomer. The Kassias were noted for their wonderful
+muscular development, no doubt accounted for by their being
+mountaineers, their poonjes (villages) being situated on the sides of
+high and steep mountains. All their market products, supplies, etc.,
+were packed up and down these hills in thoppas, a sort of baskets or
+chairs slung on the back by a band over the forehead. In this way even a
+heavy man would be carried up the steep mountain-side, and generally by
+a woman.</p>
+
+<p>Once, in later years, whilst in Mexico, near Crizaba, I was intensely
+surprised to meet in the forest a string of Indios going to market and
+using this identical thoppa; the similar cut of the hair across the
+forehead, the blanket and dress, the physical features, even the
+peculiar grunt emitted when carrying a weight, settled for me the
+long-disputed question of the origin of the Aztecs. In Venezuela I saw
+exactly the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> same type in Castro's Indian troops, as also in the Indian
+natives of Peru.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+ <a name="img002" id="img002"></a>
+<div class="center" style="padding-top: 2em; ">
+<img src="images/img002.jpg"
+    alt="NAGAS."
+    title="NAGAS." />
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<h4>NAGAS.</h4>
+
+<p>The Kassias were fond of games, such as tossing the caber, putting the
+weight and throwing the hammer, apparently a tribal institution. The
+Kookies and Nagas were restless, warlike and troublesome, and addicted
+to head hunting. They periodically raided some tea-gardens to secure
+lead for bullets, and incidentally heads as trophies. Several planters
+had been thus massacred, and at outlying gardens there was always this
+dread and danger. On one occasion an urgent message was brought to me
+from such a garden, whose manager happened to be in Calcutta. His head
+baboo begged me to come over and take charge, if only to reassure the
+coolies, who had been running off into the jungle on the report of a
+threatened Naga raid. On going over I found the people tremendously
+excited, and most of them scared nearly to death. My presence seemed to
+allay their fright, though if the savages had come we could have done
+nothing, having only a few rifles in the place and the coolies totally
+demoralized. Luckily Mr Naga did not appear.</p>
+
+<p>The Looshais were a particularly warlike race, and gardens situated near
+their territory were supplied by Government with stands of arms and had
+stockades for defence in case of attack.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The tea-planter's life was to me a very enjoyable one. There was lots of
+interesting work to be done, lots of sport and amusement, and lots of
+good fellows. The life promised to be an ideal one. For its enjoyment,
+however, indeed for its possibility, there is one essential&mdash;good
+health. Unfortunately that, during the whole period at Scottpore, was
+not mine; for the whole eighteen months fever had its grip on me;
+appetite was quite gone, and I subsisted on nothing but eggs, milk and
+whisky. Six months more would have done me up; but just at this time
+came the announcement of my father's death. For this reason and on
+account of my health I resigned the position and prepared to visit home,
+meaning to return, however, to India.</p>
+
+<p>I determined before going to look out a piece of land suitable for a
+small plantation; and, after much consideration, decided to hunt for it
+in Eastern Sylhet. So bidding adieu to friends I hied me down to the
+selected district, secured a good man as guide (a man of intelligence
+and intimate knowledge of the country was essential), and hired an
+elephant to carry us and break a way through the jungle. In the course
+of our search we came to a piece of seemingly swampy ground; the high
+reeds which had once covered it had been eaten down and the surface of
+the bog trodden on till it became caked, firm and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> almost solid. Our
+path was across it, but on coming to the edge the elephant refused to
+proceed. On the mahout urging him he roared and protested in every way,
+so much so that I was somewhat alarmed and suggested to the mahout that
+the elephant knew better than he the danger of proceeding. Finally,
+however, the elephant decided to try the ground, and carefully and
+slowly he made his way across, his great feet at every step depressing
+the surface, which perceptibly waved like thin ice all around him. I was
+prepared and ready to jump clear at the first sign of danger, for had we
+broken through we should have probably all disappeared in the bog.
+Hatthi was as much relieved as myself on reaching terra firma. My guide
+told me that this land had no bottom, that under the packed surface
+there was twenty feet of soft, black, loamy mud. This set me thinking. I
+was after something of this nature. In the course of the next day we
+came upon a somewhat similar piece of ground, some 300 acres in extent,
+still covered with the original reeds and other vegetation. The soil was
+in places exposed and was of a rich, dark brown loamy character. Taking
+a long ten-foot bamboo and pressing it firmly on the ground it could be
+forced nearly out of sight. That was enough for me. The object sought
+for was found. Further tests with a spade and bamboo<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> were made at
+different points; deep drainage seemed practicable, and, what was quite
+important, a small navigable river bounded the property. Then I hunted
+up a native surveyor, traced the proposed boundaries, got numbers and
+data, etc., to enable me to send my application to the proper quarter,
+which I soon afterwards did, making a money deposit in part payment to
+the Government. My task was completed, and I at once started for
+Calcutta and home.</p>
+
+<p>As things turned out I never returned to the country and so had to
+abandon my rights, etc.; but in support of my judgment I was very much
+gratified to learn years afterwards that someone else had secured and
+developed this particular piece of land as a tea-garden, and that it had
+turned out to be the most valuable, much the most valuable, piece of tea
+land, acre for acre, in the whole country. Often and bitterly since then
+have I regretted not being able to return and develop and operate this
+ideal location. More than that, I had learned the tea-growing business,
+had devoted over three years to its careful study, felt myself in every
+way competent, and had found a life in many ways suited to my tastes.
+All this had to be abandoned. In India the white man lives in great
+luxury. He has a great staff of servants, his every whim and wish is
+anticipated and satisfied, his comfort<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> watched over. To leave <i>this</i>,
+to go straight out to the West, the wild and woolly West, where servants
+were not! The very suggestion of such a thing to me on leaving India
+would have received no consideration whatever. It would have seemed
+utterly impossible, but "El Hombre propone y el Deos depone" as the
+Mexicans say.</p>
+
+<p>During the whole four years' stay in India I was practically barred from
+ladies' society, nearly all the planters being unmarried men. Alas! for
+twenty years longer of my life this very unfortunate and demoralizing
+condition was to continue.</p>
+
+<p>There were no railroads then to Cachar and no steamers, so I again
+performed the journey to Calcutta in a native boat, and there,
+by-the-bye, I witnessed the sight for the first time of an apparent
+lunatic playing a game called Golf; a game which later was to be more
+familiar to me, and myself to become one of the greatest lunatics of
+all. The run home was in no way remarkable, except for the intense
+anticipated pleasure of again seeing the old country.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II</h2>
+
+<h3>CATTLE RANCHING IN ARIZONA</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Leave for United States of America&mdash;Iowa&mdash;New Mexico&mdash;Real Estate
+Speculation&mdash;Gambling&mdash;Billy the Kid&mdash;Start Ranching in
+Arizona&mdash;Description of Country&mdash;Apache and other
+Indians&mdash;Fauna&mdash;Branding Cattle&mdash;Ranch
+Notes&mdash;Mexicans&mdash;Politics&mdash;Summer Camp&mdash;Winter Camp&mdash;Fishing and
+Shooting&mdash;Indian Troubles.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>My health seemed to have reached a more serious condition than imagined;
+and so on the advice of my friends, but with much regret, I decided to
+henceforth cast my lot in a more bracing climate. Having no profession,
+and hating trade in any form, the choice was limited and confined to
+live stock or crop farming of one kind or another.</p>
+
+<p>Accordingly, after six months at home and on complete recovery of
+health, I took my way to the United States of America, first to Lemars
+in Iowa, where was a well-known colony of Britishers, said Britishers
+consisting almost entirely of the gentlemen class, some with much money,
+some with little, none of them with much knowledge of practical business
+life or affairs, all of them with the idea of social superiority over
+the natives, which they very foolishly showed. Sport, not work, occupied
+their whole time and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> attention. Altogether it seemed that this was no
+place for one who had to push his fortunes. The climate, too, seemed to
+be far from agreeable, in summer being very hot, in winter very cold;
+so, with another man, I decided to go further west and south, to the
+sheep and cattle country of New Mexico; not that I had any knowledge of
+sheep or cattle, hardly knowing the one from the other; but the nature
+of Ranch life (Ranch with a big R) and the romance attaching to it had
+much to do with my determination.</p>
+
+<p>Arrived in New Mexico I went to live with a sheepman&mdash;a practical
+sheepman from Australia&mdash;to study the industry and see how I liked it.
+In the neighbourhood was a cattle ranch and a lot of cowboys. I saw much
+of <i>their</i> life, and was so attracted by it that the sheep proposition
+was finally abandoned as unsuitable. Still, I was very undecided, knew
+little of the ways of the country and still less of the cattle business.
+I moved to the small town of Las Vegas, then about the western end of
+the Santa F&eacute; railroad. Here I stayed six months, making acquaintances
+and listening to others' experiences.</p>
+
+<p>Las Vegas was then a true frontier town. It was "booming," full of life
+and all kinds of people, money plentiful, saloons, gambling-dens and
+dance-halls "wide open." Real Estate was moving freely, prices
+advancing, speculation rife,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> and&mdash;I caught the infection! A few
+successful deals gave me courage and tempted me further. I became a real
+gambler. On some deals I made tremendous profits. I even owned a saloon
+and gambling-hall, which paid me a huge rental and gave me my drinks
+free! The world looked "easy."</p>
+
+<p>Not content with Las Vegas, I followed the road to Albuquerque and
+Socorro, had some deals there and spent my evenings playing poker, faro
+and monte with the best and "toughest" of them. Santa F&eacute;, the capital,
+was then as much a "hell" as Las Vegas.</p>
+
+<p>Let me try to describe one of these gambling resorts. A long, low room,
+probably a saloon, with the pretentious bar in front; tables on either
+side of the room, and an eager group round each one, the game being
+roulette, faro, highball, poker, crapps or monte. The dealers, or
+professional gamblers, are easily distinguished. Their dress consists
+invariably of a well-laundered "biled" (white) shirt, huge diamond stud
+in front, no collar or tie, perhaps a silk handkerchief tied loosely
+round the neck, and an open unbuttoned waistcoat. They are necessarily
+cool, wide-awake, self-possessed men. All in this room are chewing
+tobacco and distributing the results freely on the floor. Now and then
+the dealers call for drinks all round, perhaps to keep<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> the company
+together and encourage play. But poker, the royal game, the best of all
+gambling games, is generally played in a retired room, where quietness
+and some privacy are secured. Mere idlers and "bums" are not wanted
+around; perhaps the room is a little cleaner, but the floor is littered,
+if the game has lasted long, with dozens of already used and abandoned
+packs of cards. At Las Vegas the majority of the players were cowboys
+and cattlemen; at Socorro miners and prospectors; at Albuquerque all
+kinds; at Santa F&eacute; politicians and officials and Mexicans, but Chinamen,
+always a few Chinamen, everywhere; and what varied types of men one rubs
+shoulders with! The cowpunchers, probably pretty well "loaded" (tipsy),
+the "prominent" lawyer, the horny-handed miner, the inscrutable "John";
+the scout, or frontier man, with hair long as a woman's; the half-breed
+Mexican or greaser elbowing a don of pure Castilian blood; the men all
+"packing" guns (six-shooters), some in the pocket, some displayed
+openly. The dealer, of course, has his lying handy under the table; but
+shooting scrapes are rare. If there is any trouble it will be settled
+somewhere else afterwards.</p>
+
+<p>But things took a turn; slackness, then actual depression in Real Estate
+values set in, and oh! how quickly. Like many others, I got scared and
+hastened to "get out." It was almost too<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> late, not quite. On cleaning
+up, my financial position was just about the same as at the beginning of
+the campaign. It was a lesson, a valuable experience; but I admit that
+Real Estate speculation threw a glamour over me that still remains. It
+is the way to wealth for the man who knows how to go about it.</p>
+
+<p>About this time two Englishmen arrived in Las Vegas, and we soon got
+acquainted. One could easily see that they were not tenderfeet. On the
+contrary, they appeared to be shrewd, practical men of affairs. They had
+been cattle ranching up north for some years, had a good knowledge of
+the business, and were "good fellows." They had come south to look out a
+cattle ranch and continue in the business. They wanted a little more
+capital, which seemed my opportunity, and the upshot was that we formed
+a partnership, for good or for ill, which lasted for many years (over
+twelve), but which was never financially successful. Considering my
+entire ignorance of cattle affairs, and having abounding confidence in
+my two partners, I agreed to leave the entire control and management in
+their hands.</p>
+
+<p>It was about this time (1883) that I was fortunate enough to meet at
+Fort Sumner the then great Western celebrity, "Billy the Kid." Billy was
+a young cowboy who started wrong by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> using his gun on some trivial
+occasion. Like all, or at least many, young fellows of his age he wanted
+to appear a "bad man." One shooting scrape led to another; he became an
+outlaw; cattle troubles, and finally the Lincoln County War, in which he
+took a leading part, gave him every opportunity for his now murdering
+propensities, so that soon the tally of his victims amounted to some
+twenty-five lives. The Lincoln County New Mexico "War," in which it is
+believed that first to last over 200 men were killed, was purely a
+cattleman's war, but the most terrible and bloody that ever took place
+in the West. New Mexico was at that time probably the most lawless
+country in the world.</p>
+
+<p>Only a month after my meeting Billy in Fort Sumner he was killed there,
+not in his "boots," but in his stockings, by Sheriff Pat Garret. He was
+shot practically in his bed and given no "show." His age when killed was
+only twenty-three years. There were afterwards many other "kids" emulous
+of Billy's renown, because of which, and their youthfulness, they were
+always the most dangerous of men.</p>
+
+<p>Our senior partner, not satisfied with New Mexico, went out to Arizona
+for a look round, liked the prospect, and decided to locate there, so we
+moved out accordingly. Arizona (Arida Zona) was at this time a
+practically new and un<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span>occupied territory; that is, though there were a
+few Mexicans, a few Mormons and a great many Indians, a few sheep and
+fewer cattle, it could not be called a settled country, and most of the
+grazing land was in a virgin state.</p>
+
+<p>My partner had bought out a Mexican's rights, his cattle, water-claims,
+ranches, etc., located at the Cienega in Apache county, near the
+head-waters of the Little Colorado River. To close the deal part payment
+in advance had to be made; and to ensure promptness the paper was given
+to my care to be delivered to the seller as quickly as possible.
+Accordingly I travelled by train to the nearest railroad point,
+Holbrook, found an army ambulance about to convey the commanding officer
+to Camp Apache, and he was good enough to allow me to accompany him part
+of the way. It was a great advantage to me, as otherwise there was no
+conveyance, nor had I a horse or any means of getting to the ranch,
+about eighty miles. Judging from the colonel's armed guard and the fact
+of travelling at night, it occurred to me that something was wrong, and
+on questioning him he told me that he would not take any "chances," that
+the Apaches were "out" on the war-path, but that they never attacked in
+the dark. This lent more interest to the trip, though it was interesting
+enough to me simply to see the nature of the country where we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> had
+decided to make our home. We got through all right. Next morning I hired
+a horse and reached the ranch the same day.</p>
+
+<p>As this was to be our country for many years to come, it will be well to
+describe its physical features, etc. Arizona, of course, is a huge
+territory, some 400 by 350 miles. It embraces pure unadulterated desert
+regions in the west; a large forest tract in the centre; the rest has a
+semi-arid character, short, scattering grass all over it; to the eye of
+a stranger a dreary and desolate region! The east central part, where we
+were, has a general elevation of 4000 to 6000 feet above sea-level, so
+that the fierce summer heat is tempered to some extent, especially after
+sundown. In winter there were snowstorms and severe cold, but the snow
+did not lie long, except in the mountains, where it reached a depth of
+several feet.</p>
+
+<p>The Little Colorado River (Colorado Chiquito), an affluent of the
+Greater River, had its headquarters in the mountains, south of our
+ranch. It was a small stream, bright and clear, and full of speckled
+trout in its upper part; lower down most of the time dry; at other times
+a flood of red muddy water, or a succession of small, shallow pools of a
+boggy, quicksandy nature, that ultimately cost us many thousands of
+cattle. The western boundary of Arizona is the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> Big Colorado River.
+Where the Santa F&eacute; railroad crosses it at the Needles is one of the
+hottest places in North America. In summer the temperature runs up to as
+high as 120 degrees Fahr., and I have even heard it asserted to go to
+125 degrees in the shade; and I cannot doubt it, as even on our own
+ranch the thermometer often recorded 110 degrees; that at an elevation
+of 4000 feet, whereas the Needles' elevation above sea-level is only a
+few hundreds. At Jacobabad, India, the greatest heat recorded is 126
+degrees, and at Kashan, in Persia, a month&mdash;August&mdash;averaged 127
+degrees, supposed to be the hottest place on earth.</p>
+
+<p>Above the Needles begins or ends the very wonderful Grand Ca&ntilde;on,
+extending north for 270 miles, its depth in places being as much as 6000
+feet, and that at certain points almost precipitously. The wonderful
+colouring of the rocks, combined with the overpowering grandeur of it,
+make it one of the most impressive and unique sights of the world.</p>
+
+<p>Now, stop and think what that is&mdash;2000 yards! say a mile; and imagine
+the effect on a stranger when he first approaches it, which he will
+generally do without warning&mdash;nothing, absolutely nothing, to indicate
+the presence of this wonderful gorge till he arrives at its very brink.
+Its aspect is always changing according<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> to the hour of day, the period
+of the year, the atmospheric conditions. The air is dry and bracing at
+all times; and as pure, clear and free from dust or germs as probably
+can be found anywhere on earth. The panorama may be described as
+"<i>wundersch&ouml;n</i>." Anyone of sensibility will sit on the rock-rim for
+hours, possibly days, in dumb contemplation of the beauty and immensity.
+No one has yet, not even the most eloquent writer, been quite able to
+express his feelings and sentiments, though many have attempted to do so
+in the hotel register; some of the greatest poets and thinkers admitting
+in a few lines their utter inability. Our Colorado Chiquito in its lower
+parts has an equally romantic aspect.</p>
+
+<p>Close to our ranch was another of Nature's wonders, a petrified forest,
+quite unique in that the exposed tree trunks are solid masses of agate,
+chalcedony, jasper, opal and other silicate crystals, the variety of
+whose colouring, with their natural brilliancy, makes a wonderfully
+beautiful combination. These trees are supposed to have been the Norfolk
+Island pine, a tree now extinct, are of large dimensions, all prostrate,
+lying in no particular order, and all broken up into large or smaller
+sections. Many carloads have been removed and shipped to Eastern
+factories, where the sections are sawn through<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> and polished, and the
+most lovely table tops, etc., imaginable produced. One must beware of
+rattlesnakes when prowling about these "ruins."</p>
+
+<p>To complete the physical description of Arizona territory something must
+be said of the pine-clad mountain range to the south of us. The bulk of
+this area constituted the Apache Indian Reservation. It was reserved for
+these Indians as a hunting-ground as well as a home. No one else was
+allowed to settle within its boundaries, or graze their sheep or cattle
+there. It was truly a hunter's paradise, being largely covered with
+forest trees, broken here and there by open parks and glades and meadow
+lands, drained by streams of clear cool water, which combining, produced
+a few considerable-sized rivers, "hotching" with trout, unsophisticated
+and so simple in their natures that it seemed a positive shame to take
+advantage of them. These mountains were the haunt of the elk, the
+big-horned sheep, black-and white-tailed deer, grizzly, cinnamon, silver
+tip, and brown and black bears; the porcupine, racoon and beaver; also
+the prong-horned antelope, though it is more of a plains country animal.
+But more of this some other time.</p>
+
+<p>The Apache Indians (Apache is not their proper name, but Tinneh; the
+former was given to them by the Mexicans and signifies<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> "enemy") were
+and are the most dreaded of all the redskin tribes. They always have
+been warlike and perhaps naturally cruel, and at the time of our arrival
+in the country they had about attained their most bloodthirsty and
+murderous character. Shocking ill-treatment by white skalawags and
+United States officials had changed their nature; but more about them
+also by-and-by.</p>
+
+<p>North of us were the numerous and powerful Navajo Indians. They were not
+so much dreaded by us, their Reservation being further away, and they
+then being of a peaceful disposition, devoted to horse and sheep
+breeding and the manufacture of blankets.</p>
+
+<p>These are the famous Navajo blankets so often seen in English homes,
+valued for the oddness of their patterns and colours, but used in
+Arizona mainly as saddle blankets. The majority of them are coarsely
+made and of little intrinsic value; but others, made for the chiefs or
+other special purposes, are finely woven, very artistic, and sell for
+large sums of money. Rain will not penetrate them and they make
+excellent bed coverings.</p>
+
+<p>These Navajoes used to declare that they would never quit the war-path
+till a certain "Dancing Man" appeared, and that they would never be
+conquered till then. An American<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> officer, named Backus, at Fort
+Defiance, constructed a dummy man, who danced by the pulling of wires,
+and showed him to the Indians. They at once accepted him as their
+promised visitor, and have since then never gone on the war-path. This
+may seem an incredible tale, but is a fact.</p>
+
+<p>Also near us were the Zuni Indians, who, like the Pueblo Indians, lived
+in stone-built communal houses, had entirely different customs to those
+of the Apaches and Navajoes, and are perhaps the debased descendants of
+a once powerful and advanced nation. Whilst speaking of Indians, it may
+be said that the plains tribes, such as the Comanches, believe in the
+immortality of the soul and the future life. All will attain it, all
+will reach the Happy Hunting-Ground, unless prevented by such accidents
+as being scalped, which results in annihilation of the soul.</p>
+
+<p>Is it not strange that though these barbarians believe in the
+immortality of the soul yet our materialistic Old Testament never even
+suggests a future life; and it seems that no Jew believes or ever was
+taught to believe in it.</p>
+
+<p>Indian self-torture is to prove one's endurance of pain. A broad knife
+is passed through the pectoral muscles, and a horse-hair rope inserted,
+by which they must swing from a post till the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> flesh is torn through.
+Indians will never scalp a negro; it is "bad medicine." By the way, is
+not scalping spoken of in the Book of Maccabees as a custom of the Jews
+and Syrians? The tit-bits of a butchered carcass are, to the Indians,
+the intestines, a speciality being the liver with the contents of the
+gall bladder sprinkled over it! Horses, dogs, wolves and skunks are
+greatly valued for food.</p>
+
+<p>Amongst certain tribes Hiawatha was a Messiah of divine origin, but born
+on earth. He appeared long ago as a teacher and prophet, taught them
+picture-writing, healing, etc.; gave them the corn plant and pipe; he
+was an ascetic; told them of the Isles of the Blessed and promised to
+come again. In Mexico Quetzalcohuatl was a similar divine visitor,
+prophet and teacher.</p>
+
+<p>But to return to our own immediate affairs. At a reasonable price we
+bought out another cattleman, his ranches, cattle and saddle horses. As
+required by law, we also adopted and recorded a cattle brand. Our first
+business was to brand our now considerable herd, which entailed an
+immense amount of very hard work. This in later years would have been no
+very great undertaking, but at that time "squeezers" and branding
+"chutes" were not known. Our corrals were primitive and not suited for
+the work, and our cattle extraordinarily wild and not accustomed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> to
+control of any kind. Indeed, the men we had bought out had sold to us
+for the simple reason that they could not properly handle them. The
+four-legged beasties had got beyond their control, and many of them had
+almost become wild animals. These cattle, too, had very little of the
+"improved" character in them. Well-bred bulls had never been introduced.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the bulls we found had almost reached their allotted
+span&mdash;crusty old fellows indeed and scarred in many a battle;
+"moss-heads" we called them, and the term was well applied, for their
+hoary old heads gave the idea of their being covered with moss.</p>
+
+<p>Most of the cattle had never been in a corral in their lives, and some
+of the older steers were absolute "outlaws," magnificent creatures, ten
+to twelve years of age, with immense spreading horns, sleek and glossy
+sides, and quite unmanageable. They could not be got into a herd, or if
+got in, would very soon walk out again. Eventually some had to be shot
+on the range like any wild animal, simply to get rid of them; but they
+at least afforded us many a long and wild gallop.</p>
+
+<p>There was one great steer in particular, reckoned to be ten or twelve
+years old, quite a celebrity in fact on account of his unmanageableness,
+his independence and boldness, which we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> had frequently seen and tried
+to secure, but hitherto without success. He had a chum, another outlaw,
+and they grazed in a particular part of the range far from the haunts of
+their kin and of man. Three of us undertook to make one more effort to
+secure him. At the headquarters ranch we had gathered a herd of cattle
+and we proposed to try and run the steer in that direction, where the
+other boys would be on the lookout and would head him into the round-up.
+Two of us were to go out and find the steer and start him homewards; I
+myself undertook to wait about half-way, and when they came in sight to
+take up the running and relieve them. They found him all right about
+twenty miles out, turned him and started him. No difficulty so far. He
+ran with the ease of a horse, and he was still going as he willed,
+without having the idea of being coerced. Meantime I had been taking it
+easy, lolling on the ground, my horse beside me with bridle down.
+Suddenly the sound of hoof-beats and a succession of yells warned me to
+"prepare to receive cavalry." Through a cleft in a hill I could see the
+quarry coming at a mad gallop directly for me, the two men pounding
+along behind. I had just time and no more to tighten girth and get into
+the saddle when he was on me, and my horse being a bit drowsy it needed
+sharp digging of the spurs<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> to get out of the way. I forget how many
+miles the boys said they had already run him, but it was a prodigious
+distance and we were still eight miles from the ranch. The steer was
+getting hot, it began to suspect something, and to feel the pressure. As
+he came down on me he looked like a mountain, his eyes were bright, he
+was blowing a bit, and looked particularly nasty. When in such a
+condition it does not do to overpress, as, if you do, the chances are
+the steer will wheel round, challenge you and get on the fight. Much
+circumspection is needed. He will certainly charge you if you get too
+near, and on a tired horse he would have the advantage. So you must e'en
+halt and wait&mdash;not get down, that would be fatal&mdash;wait five minutes it
+may be, ten minutes, or a quarter of an hour, till the gentleman cools
+off a bit. Then you start him off again, not so much driving him now, he
+won't be driven, but guiding his course towards the herd. In this case
+we succeeded beautifully, though at the end he had to be raced once
+more. And so he was finally headed into the round-up; but dear me, he
+only entered it from curiosity. No round-up for him indeed! no corral
+and no going to market! He entered the herd, took a look round, a sniff
+and a smell, and was off again out at the other side as if the devil was
+after him, and indeed he wasn't far wrong. The chase<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> was abandoned and
+his majesty doomed later on to a rifle bullet wherever found.</p>
+
+<p>Our principal and indeed only corral at that time was of solid stone
+walls, a "blind" corral, and most difficult to get any kind of cattle
+into. While pushing them in, each man had his "rope" down ready to at
+once drop it over the horns of any animal attempting to break back. Thus
+half our force would sometimes be seen tying down these truants, which
+were left lying on the ground to cool their tempers till we had time to
+attend to them; and it is a fact that some of these individuals,
+especially females, died where they lay, apparently of broken hearts or
+shame at their subjection. They showed no sign of injury by rough usage,
+only their damnable tempers, rage and chagrin were responsible for their
+deaths.</p>
+
+<p>Inside the corral everything, of course, had to be roped and thrown to
+be branded. It was rough and even dangerous work, and individual
+animals, again generally cows, would sometimes make desperate charges,
+and even assist an unfortunate "puncher" in scaling the walls. In after
+years we built proper corrals, and in the course of time, by frequent
+and regular handling, the cattle became more docile and better-mannered.
+For one thing, they were certainly easily gathered. When we wanted to
+round<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> them up we had only to ride out ten or twenty miles, swing round
+and "holler," when all the cattle within sight or hearing would at once
+start on the run for the ranch. These were not yet domesticated cattle
+in that they always wanted to run and never to walk. Indeed, once
+started it was difficult to hold them back. This was not very conducive
+to the accumulation of tallow on their generally very bare bones.</p>
+
+<p>I well remember the first bunch of steers sold off the ranch, which were
+driven to Fort Wingate, to make beef for the soldiers. About two hundred
+head of steers, from six to twelve years of age, all black, brown,
+brindle or yellow, ne'er a red one amongst them; magnificently horned,
+in fair flesh, perfect health and spirits; such steers you could not
+"give away" to-day; but we got sixty dollars apiece for them and were
+well rid of them; and how they walked! The ponies could hardly keep up
+with them; and what cowman does not know the pleasure of driving fast
+walking beef cattle? Ne'er a "drag" amongst them! You had only to
+"point" them and let them "hit the trail"; but a stampede at night was
+all the more a terrific affair, though even in such a case if they got
+away they would keep together, and when you found one you found them
+all. Such a bunch of magnificent, wild, proud-looking steer creatures<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span>
+will never be seen again, in America at least, because you cannot get
+them now of such an age, nor of such primitive colours; colours that, I
+believe, the best-bred cattle would in course of long years and many
+generations' neglect revert to.</p>
+
+<p>The method adopted when an obstreperous steer made repeated attempts to
+leave the herd was to send a bullet through his horn, which gave him
+something to think about and shake his head over. No doubt it hurt him
+terribly, but it generally was an effective check to his waywardness.
+And when some old hoary-headed bull wanted to "gang his ain gait" a
+piece of cactus tossed on to his back, whence it was difficult to shake
+off, would give him also something to think about.</p>
+
+<p>Another small herd we some time later disposed of were equally good
+travellers, and indeed were driven from the ranch in one day to Camp
+Apache, another military post, a distance of over 40 miles. In this case
+the trail was through forest country where there was no "holding"
+ground, so they had to be pushed through.</p>
+
+<p>Our herd increased and throve fairly well for a number of years till
+other "outfits" began to throw cattle into the country, and sheepmen
+began to dispute our right to certain grazing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> lands. We did not quite
+realize it at the time, but it was the beginning of the end. We had gone
+into a practically virgin country, controlled an immense area, and the
+stock throve accordingly. But others were jealous of our success, threw
+in their cattle as already said, and their sheep, and ultimately we
+swamped one another. The grass was eaten down, over-grazed, droughts
+came, prices broke, and so the end. From 500 our annual calf brand
+mounted to 4000; halted there, and gradually dropped back to the
+original tally. Our cattle, from poverty, bogged in the river, or
+perished from hunger. This was all due to the barbarous grazing system
+under which we worked, the United States refusing to sell or lease land
+for grazing purposes; consequently, except at the end of a gun, one had
+no control over his range. Cattle versus sheep wars resulted, stealing
+became rampant and success impossible.</p>
+
+<p>Among other sales made was that of some 1500 steers, of all ages, which
+we drove right up to the heart of Colorado and disposed of at good
+prices. This drive was marked by a serious stampede, on a dark night in
+rough country, by which two of the boys got injured, though happily not
+seriously. Then another time we made an experimental shipment of 500 old
+steers to California, to be grazed and fattened on alfalfa.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> They were
+got through all right and put in an alfalfa field, and I remained in
+charge of them. Our cattle were not accustomed to wire fences, or being
+penned up in a small enclosure, and of course had never seen alfalfa; so
+for a week or more they did nothing but walk round the fence, trampling
+the belly-high lucerne to the ground. Gradually, however, they got to
+eating it, and in six weeks began to pick up. Briefly stated, this
+adventure was a financial failure. Like the cattle I had been myself an
+entire stranger to the wonderful alfalfa plant, and I never tired
+marvelling at its exuberance of growth and its capacity for supporting
+animal life. The heat in San Joachin Valley in high summer is almost
+overpowering, and vegetable growth under irrigation quite phenomenal.
+Alfalfa was cut some six or seven times in the season; each time a heavy
+crop. After taking cattle out of one pasture, then grazed bare, it was
+only three weeks till the plant was in full growth again, in full
+flower, two feet high and ready for the reception of more live stock.
+The variety of animal life subsisting on alfalfa was extraordinary. All
+kinds of domestic stock throve on it and liked it. In our field, besides
+cattle, were geese, ducks, turkeys, rabbits and hares in thousands,
+doves and quails in flocks, and gophers innumerable; frogs, toads, rats
+and mice; while bees, wasps, butterflies and moths, and myriads of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span>
+other insects were simply pushing one another out of the way. It was a
+wonderful study.</p>
+
+<p>In Utah much difficulty was found in growing clover. This was accounted
+for by the fact that there were no old maids in that polygamous country.
+Old maids naturally were not allowed! And there being none, there were
+of course no cats to kill the mice that eat the bumble-bees' nests;
+thus, no bumble-bees to fertilize it, therefore no clover. Old maids
+have found their function.</p>
+
+<p>Figs could not be grown successfully in California till the Smyrna wasp
+had been imported to fertilize the flower.</p>
+
+<p>And while talking of bees: on the Mississippi River bee-keepers are in
+the habit of drifting their broods on rafts up the river, following the
+advance of spring and thus securing fresh fields and pastures new of the
+young spring blossoms; which is somewhat similar to the Chinaman's habit
+of carrying his ducks (he does love ducks), thousands of them, on rafts
+and boats up and down the broad Yangtse to wherever the richest grazing
+and grub-infested beds may be found.</p>
+
+<p>I should not forget to say that care must be used in putting cattle on
+alfalfa. At some seasons it is more dangerous than at others. A number
+of these steers "bloated," and I had to stick them with a knife promptly
+to save their lives.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> A new experience to me, but I soon "caught on."</p>
+
+<p>But something must be said about our little county town, San Juan,
+county seat of Apache County in which we were located. St Johns
+consisted of one general store, three or four saloons, a drug store, a
+newspaper office, court-house, jail, etc. A small settlement of Mormons,
+who confined themselves to farming on the narrow river bottom, and an
+equal number of Mexicans, an idle and mischievous riffraff, though one
+or two of them had considerable herds of sheep, and others were county
+officials. County affairs were dreadfully mismanaged and county funds
+misused. For our own protection we had to take part in politics, form an
+Opposition, and after a long struggle, in which my partners did noble
+service, we carried an election, put in our own officials, secured
+control of the county newspaper, and had things as we wanted them. But
+it was a bitter fight, and the old robber gang, who had run the county
+for years, were desperate in their resentment. Unfortunately, this
+resentment was basely and maliciously shown by an attempt, successful
+but happily not fatal, to poison one of my partners. He had a long and
+grim fight with death, but his indomitable will pulled him through. I
+myself, though I had little to do with politics, had a narrow escape
+from a somewhat similar fate.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> Living at that time, in winter, at what
+was called the Meadows Camp, I usually had a quarter of beef hung in the
+porch. Frost kept it sweet and sound for a long period, and every day it
+was my practice to cut off a steak for consumption. There were two cats,
+fortunately, and a slice was often thrown to them. One morning I first
+gave them their portion, then cut my own. In a few minutes the
+unfortunate animals were in the throes of strychnine poisoning and died
+in short order. It was a shock to me and a warning.</p>
+
+<p>The Mexicans continued for some time to be mean and threatening.
+Bush-whacking at night was attempted, and they even threatened an attack
+on our headquarters ranch; but we were a pretty strong outfit, had our
+own sheriff, and by-and-by a number of good friends.</p>
+
+<p>In our district rough country and timber prevented the cattle drifting
+very much. In winter they naturally sought the lower range; in summer
+they went to the mountains. Headquarters was about half-way between. It
+was finally arranged that I should take charge of the lower winter camp
+during winter and the mountain camp during summer. My partners mostly
+remained at headquarters. In summer time, from April to the end of
+October, this arrangement suited me very well indeed; in fact, it was
+made at my own suggestion; and the life, though<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> a solitary one for long
+periods, suited me to the ground and I enjoyed it immensely. Practically
+I lived alone, which was also my own wish, as it was disagreeable to
+have anyone coming into my one-roomed cottage, turning things over and
+making a mess. I did my own cooking, becoming almost an expert, and have
+ever since continued to enjoy doing so. Of course I could have had one
+of the boys to live with me; but no matter what good fellows cowboys
+generally are, their being in very close companionship is not agreeable,
+some of their habits being beastly. Thus it came about that my life was
+a very solitary one, as it had been in India, and as it afterwards
+continued to be in New Mexico and Texas. Few visitors came to my camp in
+summer or winter. Now and then I was gladdened by a visit of one or
+other of my partners, one of whom, however, cared nothing for fishing or
+shooting, and the other was much of the time entirely absent from the
+country. During our short periodical round-ups of course I attended the
+"work" with the rest; but to spend one whole month, as I did once,
+without not only not conversing with, but absolutely not seeing a human
+being, is an experience that has probably come to very few men indeed.
+However, as said before, life in the White Mountains of Arizona was very
+enjoyable. Peaks ran up to 10,000 feet; and the elevation of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> my camp
+was about 8000 feet. Round about were extensive open parks and meadows,
+delightfully clear creeks and streams; grass a foot high, vast stretches
+of pine timber, deep and rocky ca&ntilde;ons, etc., etc.</p>
+
+<p>When we first shoved our cattle up there the whole country was a virgin
+one, no settlements or houses, no roads of any kind, except one or two
+Indian hunting trails, no cattle, sheep or horses. There were, as
+already stated, elk, mountain sheep, antelope, deer, bears, panthers,
+porcupines, coons, any amount of wild turkey, spruce grouse, green
+pigeons, quail, etc., etc. There were virgin rivers of considerable
+size, swarming with trout, many of which it was my luck to first explore
+and cast a fly into. Most of this lovely country, as said before, was
+part of the Apache Indian Reservation, on which no one was allowed to
+trespass; but the boundary line was ill-defined and it was difficult to
+keep our cattle out of the forbidden territory. Indeed, we did not try
+to do so.</p>
+
+<p>The Indian settlement was at Fort Apache, some thirty miles from my
+camp. These people, having such an evil reputation, are worthy of a few
+more notes. Such tales of cruelty and savagery were told of them as to
+be almost incredible. They were the terror of Arizona and New Mexico,
+yet they were not entirely to blame.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> Government ill-treatment of
+Cochise, the great chief of the Chiricaua Apaches, had set the whole
+tribe on the war-path for ten years. A military company, called the
+Tombstone Toughs, was organized in Southern Arizona to wipe them out,
+but accomplished nothing. Finally, America's greatest Indian fighter,
+General Crook, was sent to campaign in Arizona in 1885. The celebrated
+chiefs, Geronimo and Natchez, broke out again and killed some
+twenty-nine white people in New Mexico and thirty-six in Arizona before
+Crook pushed them into the Sierra Madre Mountains in Sonora, where at
+last Geronimo surrendered. Victorio was an equally celebrated Apache
+war-chief and was out about the same time. Fortunately these last raids
+were always made on the south side of the Reservation. We were happily
+on the north side, and though we had frequent scares they never gave us
+serious trouble. So here were my duties and my pleasures.</p>
+
+<p>The saddle horses when not in use were in my care. The cattle also, of
+course, needed looking after. I was in the saddle all day. Frequently it
+would be my delight to take a pack-horse and go off for a week or two
+into the wildest parts of the Reservation, camp, and fish and shoot
+everything that came along, but the shooting was chiefly for the pot.
+Young wild turkeys are a delicacy unrivalled, and I became so expert in
+knowing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> their haunts that I could at any time go out and get a supply.
+One of my ponies was trained to turkey hunting. He seemed to take a
+delight in it. As soon as we sighted a flock, off he would go and take
+me up to shooting range, then stop and let me get two barrels in, and
+off again after them if more were needed. Turkeys run at a great rate
+and will not rise unless you press them.</p>
+
+<p>Big game shooting never appealed to me much. My last bear, through lack
+of cartridges to finish him, went off with a broken back, dragging
+himself some miles to where I found him again next morning. It so
+disgusted me as to put me off wishing to kill for killing's sake ever
+afterwards. A wounded deer or antelope, or a young motherless fawn, is a
+most pitiable sight.</p>
+
+<p>There was, and perhaps still is, no better bear country in America than
+the Blue River district on the border of Arizona and New Mexico. On
+these shooting and fishing trips I was nearly always alone, and many
+times experienced ridiculous scares. Camping perhaps in a deep ca&ntilde;on, a
+rapid stream rushing by, the wind blowing through the tall pines, the
+horses tethered to tree stumps, a menagerie-like smell of bears
+frequently quite apparent, your bed on Mother Earth without tent or
+covering, if your sleep be not very sound you will conjure up all sorts
+of amazing things. Perhaps the horses take fright and run on their
+ropes.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+ <a name="img003" id="img003"></a>
+<div class="center" style="padding-top: 2em; ">
+<img src="images/img003.jpg"
+    alt="ROPING A GRIZZLY."
+    title="ROPING A GRIZZLY." />
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<h4>ROPING A GRIZZLY.</h4>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>You get up to soothe them and find them in a lather of sweat and scared
+to a tremble. What they saw, or, like men, imagined they saw or heard in
+the black darkness, you cannot tell. Still you are in an Indian country
+and perhaps thirty miles from anywhere. Many a night I swore I should
+pack up and go home at daylight, but when daylight came and all again
+seemed serene and beautiful&mdash;how beautiful!&mdash;all fear would be
+forgotten; I would cook my trout or fry the breast of a young turkey,
+and with hot fresh bread and bacon grease, and strong coffee.&mdash;Why,
+packing up was unthought of!</p>
+
+<p>One of my nearest neighbours was an old frontiers-man and Government
+scout. He had married an Apache squaw, been adopted into the tribe
+(White Mountain Apaches) and possessed some influence. He liked
+trout-fishing, so once or twice I accompanied him with his party, said
+party consisting of his wife and all her relatives&mdash;indeed most of the
+tribe. The young bucks scouted and cut "sign" for us (another branch of
+the Apaches being then on the war-path), the women washed clothes, did
+the cooking, cleaned and smoked the fish, etc. These Indians were
+rationed with beef by the Government, while they killed no doubt quite a
+number of our cattle, and even devoured eagerly any decomposed carcass
+found on the range; but they preferred the flesh<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> of horses, mules and
+donkeys, detesting pork and fish.</p>
+
+<p>In these mountains in summer a serious pest was a green-headed fly,
+which worried the cattle so much that about noon hour they would all
+congregate in a very close herd out in the open places for
+self-protection. No difficulty then in rounding up; even antelope and
+deer would mix with them. When off on a fishing and hunting trip it was
+my custom to set fire to a dead tree trunk, in the smoke of which my
+horses would stand for hours at a time, even scorching their fetlocks.</p>
+
+<p>In these mountains, too, was a place generally called the "Boneyard,"
+its history being that some cattleman, stranger to the country, turned
+his herd loose there and tried to hold them during the winter. A heavy
+snowfall of several feet snowed the cattle in so that they could not be
+got out or anything be done with them. The whole herd was lost and next
+spring nothing but a field of bones was visible.</p>
+
+<p>At another time and place a lot of antelope were caught in deep snow and
+frozen to death. A more remarkable case was that of a bunch of horses
+which became snowed in, the snow being so deep they could not break a
+way out. The owner with great difficulty managed to rescue them, when it
+was found they had actually chawed each other's tails and manes off.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Indian dogs have a great antipathy to white men, likewise our own dogs
+towards Indians, which our horses also share in. Horses also have a
+dread of bears. Once when riding a fine and high-strung horse a bear
+suddenly appeared in front. Knowing that my mount, as soon as he smelt
+the bear, would become uncontrollable, I quickly shot the bear from the
+saddle, and immediately the scared horse bolted.</p>
+
+<p>To preserve trout I sometimes kippered them and hung them up to dry.
+Quickly the wasps would attack them, and, if not prevented, would in a
+short space of time leave absolutely nothing but a skeleton hanging to
+the string. It was later demonstrated that cattle, too, thought them a
+delicacy, no doubt for the salt or sugar ingredients. Snakes also have a
+weakness for fish, and I have seen them approach my trout when thrown on
+the river bank and drag them off for their own consumption.</p>
+
+<p>While fishing or shooting one must always be on the careful lookout for
+rattlesnakes. In the rough ca&ntilde;ons and river banks the biggest rattlers
+are found, and you may jump, tumble or scramble on the back of one and
+run great chance of being bitten. On the open prairie, where smaller
+rattlers are very plentiful, they always give you warning with their
+unique, unmistakable rattle. Once, on stooping down to tear up by the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span>
+roots a dangerous poison weed, in grasping the plant my hand also
+grasped a rattlesnake. I dropped it quick enough to escape injury, but
+the cold sweat fairly broke out all over me. The bite is always painful,
+but not always necessarily fatal.</p>
+
+<p>"Rustlers" is the common name given to cattle or horse thieves. Arizona
+had her full share of them. That territory was the last resort of
+outlaws from other and more civilized states. Many of our own "hands"
+were such men. Few of them dare use their own proper names; having
+committed desperate crimes in other states, such as Texas, they could
+not return there. Strange to say, the worst of these "bad" men often
+made the best of ranch hands. Cowboys as a class, that is, the genuine
+cowboys of days gone by, were a splendid lot of fellows, smart,
+intelligent, self-reliant and resourceful, also hard and willing
+workers. If they liked you, they would stay with you in any kind of
+trouble and be thoroughly loyal. No such merry place on earth as the cow
+camp, where humour, wit and repartee abounded. The fact of every man
+being armed, and in these far-off days probably a deadly shot, tended to
+keep down rowdyism and quarrelling. If serious trouble did come up, it
+was settled then and there quickly and decisively, wrongly or rightly.
+Let me instance a case.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In round-up camp one day a few hot words were suddenly heard, guns began
+to play, result&mdash;one man killed outright and two wounded. The case of
+one of the wounded boys was rather peculiar. His wound was in the thigh
+and amputation was necessary. Being a general favourite, we, myself and
+partners, took turns nursing him, dressing his wounds and cheering him
+up as well as we could. He rapidly recovered, put on flesh and was in
+high spirits, and, as the doctor said, quite out of danger; but one day
+this big strong young fellow took it into his foolish head that he was
+going to die. Nothing would persuade him to the contrary, and so die he
+did, and that without any waste of time. In preparing a body for burial
+it is the custom, a burial rite indeed, not to wrap the corpse in a
+shroud, but to dress it in a complete ordinary costume, a brand-new suit
+of black clothes, white shirt, socks, etc., etc.&mdash;whether boots or not I
+forget, but rather think so&mdash;dress him probably better than the poor
+fellow was ever dressed before, and in this manner he was laid in the
+ground. The man who started the shooting was named "Windy M'Gee,"
+already an outlaw, but then cook for our mess wagon. Shortly afterwards
+he killed a prominent lawyer in our little town, or at least we
+suspected him strongly, though another man suffered for the crime; but
+such incidents as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> these were too common to attract world-wide
+attention.</p>
+
+<p>On another occasion one of our men got shot in the thigh, by whom or how
+I do not now remember, but he was a different sort of man from the boy
+just mentioned. We knew him to be quite a brave, nervy man in action,
+having been in one of our fighting scrapes with rustlers; but as a
+patient he showed a most cowardly disposition, developing a ferocious
+temper, rejecting medical advice, cursing everybody who came around, so
+that he lay for months at our charge, until we really got to wish that
+he would carry out his threat of self-destruction. He did not, but he
+was crippled for life and did not leave a friend behind.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+ <a name="img004" id="img004"></a>
+<div class="center" style="padding-top: 2em; ">
+<img src="images/img004.jpg"
+    alt="A SHOOTING SCRAPE."
+    title="A SHOOTING SCRAPE." />
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<h4>A SHOOTING SCRAPE.<br />(By C. M. Russel.)</h4>
+
+
+<p>Then, too, the cowboy, in matter of accoutrements, was a very splendid
+fellow indeed. His saddle was gaily decorated with masses of silver, in
+the shape of buttons, buckles and trimmings, etc. Likewise his bridle
+and bit; his spurs were works of loving art from the hands of the
+village metal-worker, and likewise heavily plated with silver. The
+rowels were huge but blunt-pointed, and had little metal bells attached.
+His boots cost him near a month's pay, always made to careful order,
+with enormously high and narrow heels, as high as any fashionable
+woman's; his feet were generally extremely small, because <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span>of his
+having lived in the saddle from early boyhood up. He wore a heavy
+woollen shirt, with a gorgeous and costly silk handkerchief tied loosely
+round his neck. His head-covering was a very large grey felt hat, a
+"genuine Stetson," which cost him from five to twenty dollars, never
+less. To keep the big hat in place a thong or cord is tied around and
+below the back of the head instead of under the chin, experience having
+proved it to be much more effective in that position. His six-shooter
+had plates of silver on the handle, and his scabbard was covered with
+silver buttons. It should be said that a saddle, such as we all used,
+cost from forty to sixty dollars, and weighed generally about forty
+pounds, not counting saddle blankets. Sometimes the saddle had only one
+"cinch" or girth, generally two, one of which reached well back under
+the flank. Such heavy saddles were necessary for heavy work, roping big
+cattle, etc. The stirrups were then generally made of wood, very big and
+broad in sole and very heavy, sometimes covered with tapaderos, huge
+leather caps to save the feet from thorns in heavy brush, and protect
+them from cold in severe weather.</p>
+
+<p>To protect our legs we wore over the trousers heavy leather chaparejos,
+sometimes of bear or buffalo hide. Let it be noted that a genuine
+cowpuncher never rolls his shirt sleeves up, as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> depicted in romancing
+novels. Indeed he either protects his wrists with leather wristlets, or
+wears long gauntlet gloves. Mounted on his favourite horse, his was a
+gay cavalier figure, and at the "Baillie" he felt himself to be
+irresistible to the shy and often very pretty Mexican se&ntilde;oritas. There
+you have a pretty faithful picture of the cowboy of twenty-five years
+ago.</p>
+
+<p>It remains to say something of the "shooting irons." In the days of
+which I write there was no restriction to the bearing of arms. Every man
+carried a six-shooter. We, and most of our outfit, habitually carried a
+carbine or rifle as well as the smaller weapon. The carbine was carried
+in a scabbard, slung from the horn, under the stirrup flap, and so under
+the leg. This method kept the weapon steady and left both arms free. By
+raising the leg it was easily got at, and it interfered in no way with
+the use of the lariat (La Riata). The hang of the six-shooter required
+more particular consideration; when needed it would be needed <i>badly</i>,
+and therefore must be easily drawn, with no possible chance of a hitch.
+The butt of a revolver must point forwards and not backwards, as shown
+in the accompanying illustration, a portrait of one of our men as he
+habitually appeared at work. We ourselves did not go the length of
+wearing three belts of cartridges and two six-shooters; but two <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span>belts
+were needed, one for the rifle and the other for the smaller weapon.
+Some of the boys were always getting into scrapes and seemed to enjoy
+protracted fights with the Mexicans. There must be no flap to the
+scabbard, and the point must be tied by a leather thong around the thigh
+to keep it in correct position; and of course it was hung on the right
+side and low down on the hip, so as to be easily got at. Only when
+riding fast was a small loop and silver button passed through the
+trigger guard to prevent the gun from jolting out and being lost. The
+chambers were always kept full and the weapons themselves in perfect
+working order. Very "bad" men tied back or removed the trigger
+altogether, cocking and releasing the hammer with the thumb, or
+"fanning" it with the left hand. This permitted of very rapid firing, so
+that the "aar would be plumb full of lead."</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+ <a name="img005" id="img005"></a>
+<div class="center" style="padding-top: 2em; ">
+<img src="images/img005.jpg"
+    alt="ONE OF OUR MEN."
+    title="ONE OF OUR MEN." />
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<h4>ONE OF OUR MEN.<br />(To show the hang of a six-shooter.)</h4>
+
+
+<p>As an instance of quick shooting, two of our neighbours had threatened
+to kill each other at sight: and we were all naturally interested in the
+results. When the meeting did take place, quite unpremeditated, no
+doubt, each man saw the other about the same instant, but one of them
+was just a little the quicker, and put a bullet through his enemy's
+heart. It was a mortal wound of course; but before the unlucky man fell
+he was also able to "get his work in," and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> both fell dead at the same
+instant. This was no duel. The first to fire had the advantage, but the
+"dead" man was too quick for him, and he did not escape. If I remember
+right, a good riddance.</p>
+
+<p>There was one other way of "packing a gun." It was called the Arizona
+way. Legal gentlemen, some gamblers, and others who for various reasons
+wished to appear unarmed, simply put the pistol in the coat side pocket,
+and in use fired from that position through the pocket. It was not often
+so used, but I have known cases of it. In this way it was difficult to
+know whether a man was "heeled" (armed) or not. Of course our usual
+weapon, the long Colt 45&deg; six-shooter could not be so used, being too
+cumbrous.</p>
+
+<div class="center" style="padding-top: 2em; ">
+ <a name="img006" id="img006"></a>
+<img src="images/img006.jpg"
+    alt="1883 IN ARIZONA."
+    title="1883 IN ARIZONA." />
+</div>
+
+<h4>1883 IN ARIZONA.<br />AUTHOR AND PARTY.</h4>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III</h2>
+
+<h3>CACTUS RANCHING IN ARIZONA&mdash;<i>continued</i></h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The Cowboy&mdash;Accoutrements and Weapons&mdash;Desert Plants&mdash;Politics and
+Perjury&mdash;Mavericks&mdash;Mormons&mdash;Bog Riding.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>The "rustling" of cattle was very common in Arizona in these days. By
+"rustling" is not meant the petty burning out of a brand, or stealing of
+calves or odd beef cattle. It was carried on on the grand scale. Bands
+of rustlers operated together in large bodies. Between our range and the
+old Mexican border extended the Apache Reservation, a very large tract
+of exceedingly rough country, without roads of any description, the only
+signs of human presence being an occasional Indian trail and abandoned
+wickyups. Beyond the Reservation lay certain mining towns and camps,
+such as Clifton, Camp Thomas, Tombstone, and others; and then the
+Mexican frontier.</p>
+
+<p>The rustlers' business was to steal cattle, butcher them in the
+mountains, and sell the beef to the mining towns; or drive them over
+into Old Mexico for disposal, and then again drive Mexican cattle or
+horses back into Arizona. Some of these gangs were very powerful and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span>
+terrorized the whole country, so much so that decent citizens were
+afraid "to give them away."</p>
+
+<p>Our cattle ranged well into the mountains, and up to a certain period we
+had no occasion to think that any "dirty" work was going on; but at last
+we "tumbled" to the fact that a gang was operating on our range. Word
+was brought us that a bunch of some 200 cattle had been "pulled"
+(Scotch, lifted). I was off the ranch at the time, but one of my
+partners at once started on the trail with three of the men. After some
+days very hard riding they caught up on the thieves at early dawn, in
+fact when still too dark to see very well. Shooting began at once. None
+of our men were hurt. Two of the enemy were badly wounded, but managed
+in the darkness to scramble off into the rocks, or were carried off by
+their companions. Our party captured their saddle horses and camp
+outfit, but did not feel themselves strong enough to continue the chase
+in such a country. The cattle were found close to the camp, but so
+footsore that it was impossible to move them homewards. They then
+returned to the ranch, and we at once organized a strong force of some
+seventeen men, well mounted and abundantly supplied with ammunition,
+etc. Again taking the trail we met the cattle on their way home, and
+gave them a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> push for a mile or so; and thinking them safe enough we
+prepared to continue south.</p>
+
+<p>On arriving at the scene of last week's fight we noticed that the big
+pine trees under which the rustlers camped had gun-rests notched in the
+sides of them, not newly made, but showing that they had been cut a long
+while ago, probably in anticipation of just what had happened.</p>
+
+<p>That day in camp, a horseman, the most innocent-looking of individuals,
+appeared, took dinner with us, and gave some plausible reason for his
+presence in that out-of-the-way place. It is strictly against cowboy
+etiquette to question a guest as to his personality, his movements or
+his occupation. We, however, felt very suspicious, especially as after
+he had gone we stumbled on to a coffee-pot and frying-pan, still warm,
+which had evidently been thrown into the bushes in great haste. In fact,
+this confirmed our suspicions that our visitor was one of the gang, and
+we thereafter stood careful guard round our horses every night. The
+cattle we decided to leave alone to take their chances of getting home,
+thinking the rustlers would not have the "gall", in face of our near
+presence, to again try to get off with them; but they did! These cattle
+never reached the ranch. Had they been left alone their wonderful homing
+instinct would certainly have got them there just as quick as they
+could<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> travel. However, we did not realize the fact of the second raid
+till on our return no sign of these cattle could be found. So we
+continued south, passing through the roughest country I ever set eyes
+on, the vegetation in some places being of the most extraordinary
+nature, cacti of all kinds forming so thick a jungle that one could
+hardly dismount. Such enormous and freakish-looking growths of this
+class of plant few can have ever looked on before. The prickly pear
+"nopal" was the most common, and bore delicious, juicy and refreshing
+fruit. Indeed, being out of water and short of "chuck," we were glad to
+accept Nature's offering, but at a dreadful cost, for in a little while
+our mouths and tongues were a mass of tiny, almost invisible spines,
+which the most careful manipulation of the fruit could not prevent. But
+the most astonishing of these growths was the pitahaya (correct name
+saguarro), or gigantic columnar cactus, growing to a height of thirty to
+fifty feet, bearing the fruit on their crowns; a favourite fruit of the
+Pima Indians, though by what means they pluck it it would be interesting
+to know. Besides an infinite variety of others of the cactus family,
+there were yuccas, agaves and larreas; the fouquiera and koberlinia,
+long and thorny leafless rods; artemisias and the algarrobbas or
+mesquite bean-trees, another principal food of the Indians and valuable
+for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> cattle and horses. The yucca when in full bloom, its gigantic
+panicles bearing a profusion of large white bells, is one of Nature's
+most enchanting sights. Besides all these were massive biznagas, cholas,
+bear-grass or palmilla, and the mescal, supplying the principal
+vegetable food of the Apaches. Never in Texas, Arizona, or even Old
+Mexico, have I seen such a combination of varieties of such plants
+growing in such profusion and perfection; but being no botanist, and
+quite incompetent to give a proper appreciation of these wonders, we
+will return to the trail.</p>
+
+<p>At one place, hidden in a ca&ntilde;on, we ran on to a stone-built and
+fortified butchering establishment, but without sign of life around.
+Continuing, we finally came to Clifton, the copper-mining town, then
+perhaps the "hardest" town in Arizona. The townspeople appeared pleased
+to see us. Martial law was prevailing, and they seemed to think we were
+a posse deputized to assist in restoring order. Anyway, the sheriff
+informed us that nearly thirty men had left the town that day for their
+camp, a fortified position some ten or fifteen miles away. They were all
+rustlers, and somehow or other had heard of our coming. Mr Sheriff was
+also kind enough to advise us that we were not nearly strong enough to
+tackle them; so adopting his advice, after securing supplies, we rode
+off, and by travelling<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> all night and working round avoided the enemy's
+"position." Next day we unexpectedly ran on to a large bunch of our own
+cattle quietly grazing on the hillside. We rounded them up, but our
+brands were so completely burned out and effaced that, when we put them
+in the corral at Camp Thomas and claimed ownership, the sheriff refused
+to acknowledge it, and we had to draw his attention to a small jaw brand
+lately adopted by us but unnoticed by the thieves, and therefore not
+"monkeyed" with. This was proof enough, and so our long and tedious trip
+was to some extent compensated for. The particular rustlers we were
+after we could hear nothing of, except one man, who was lying wounded at
+a certain establishment, but who was carefully removed before we got to
+the place.</p>
+
+<p>On returning home there were only two possible passes through the
+mountains. It was lucky we took the one, as the other, we afterwards
+learned, had been put into a state of defence and manned by the outlaws,
+who in such a place could have shot us all down without danger to
+themselves.</p>
+
+<p>This short narrative will give some sort of idea of the state of the
+country at that period. Thereafter it became necessary that the cattle
+in the mountains should be more carefully guarded and looked after, and
+the duty fell to me to "cut<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> sign." By "cutting sign" is meant, in this
+instance, the riding round and outside of all our cattle, pushing back
+any that had strayed too far, and carefully looking out for fresh sign
+(footprints) of cattle or horses leading beyond our range limits. Such
+sign was always suspicious, and the trail must be followed till the
+stock was found and accounted for. If horse tracks accompanied the
+cattle it would be a dead sure proof that something was wrong. I
+continued this work for a long time, but nothing suspicious occurred. At
+last, one day when searching the open country with my field-glasses, I
+was gratified and at the same time alarmed to see three or four men
+driving a considerable herd of cattle in the direction, and on exactly
+the same trail as before taken by the rustlers. Convinced that all was
+not right, and quite realizing that there was the prospect of serious
+trouble for myself, I lit out for them, keeping as well under cover as
+possible, till, on mounting a small tree-covered knoll, I found myself
+directly overlooking their camp. There were the cattle, from four to
+five hundred, and there the men, preparing their mid-day meal, four of
+them in all, and all strangers to me. It was necessary at all costs to
+know who they were, so I was obliged to disclose myself by going into
+their camp. The number of saddle horses they had with them led me to
+think that they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> were not real professional cattle thieves. Had they
+been indeed rustlers it would have been a risky thing to do, as they
+would have had to dispose of me in some way or other. By my horse brand
+they at once knew what "outfit" I belonged to. Their brands, however,
+were strange to me. They asked me to eat, of course; and I soon found
+out that their party was headed by one Pete&mdash;&mdash;, whose reputation I had
+often heard of as being of the worst. He said he had been grazing these
+cattle in some outlying park, and was now taking them home to his
+ranches somewhere in New Mexico. That was all right; but since he had
+passed through part of our range it was necessary to inspect the herd.
+This he resisted by every means he could think of, asserting that they
+were a "clean" bunch, with no "strays," and that he was in a great hurry
+to push on. I insisted, however, on riding through them, when, not much
+to my surprise, I found about twenty large unbranded calves, apparently
+without their "mammies." On asking Pete for an explanation: "Oh," he
+said, "the mammies were shore in the herd" and he "warn't no cow thief,"
+but on my persisting he finally exclaimed, "Well, take your damned
+<i>caves</i> and let's get on," or some such words; so I started in and cut
+out nearly twenty big unbranded calves, which certainly did not have
+their mothers with them; which, therefore,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> were clearly not his
+property; were probably ours, but whether they were or not did not
+matter to me. Pete and his men pulled out home, but I caught and branded
+over half of these calves before turning them loose, and it is probable
+we got the rest of them at the next round-up. When a man is
+single-handed and has to make his fire up as well as catch and tie down
+the calves he has his hands pretty full. In this case I used only one
+fire and so had to drag the calves up close to it; every bit of tie rope
+in my pocket, thongs cut off the saddle, even my pocket-handkerchief,
+were all brought into service; as at one time there were as many as four
+calves tied down at once. I had only the one little branding-iron, a
+thin bent iron rod, generally carried tied to the saddle alongside the
+carbine. The branding-iron must be, if not quite red-hot, very nearly
+so. Then the calf has to be ear-marked and altered.</p>
+
+<p>When the mothers are near by the bellowing of the young ones as the hot
+iron burns into the hide makes them wild with fear and anxiety, and the
+motherly instinct to charge is strained to the utmost, though they
+seldom dare to do it. The calves themselves, if big and stout enough,
+will often charge you on being released, and perhaps knock you over with
+a painfully hard punch.</p>
+
+<p>This was merely an adventure which lent some excitement and interest to
+the regular work.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> Happily no more serious raid on our cattle occurred
+in that direction, but one never knew when a little "pulling" might take
+place and so had to be constantly on the alert.</p>
+
+<p>About this time certain ill-disposed individuals tried "to get their
+work in on us" by asserting land frauds on our part. They tried every
+possible way to give us "dirt," that is, to put us to trouble and
+expense, and even send us to the pen if they could. They succeeded in
+having me indicted for perjury by the Grand Jury at Prescott, the then
+capital of Arizona. It cost us some money, but no incriminating evidence
+was forthcoming and the trial was a farce. The trial jury consisted of
+miners, cattlemen, saloon-keepers and others, and by mixing freely with
+them, standing drinks, etc., we managed to "correct" any bad feeling
+there might have been against us. Certainly these jurymen might have
+made trouble for me, but they did not. This notwithstanding that my
+friend, a special land agent sent out from Washington and principal
+witness against me, swore that I had assaulted him at a lonely place
+(and I well remember the occasion), and that he felt his life in such
+danger that he had to travel with a guard, etc. This came from politics.</p>
+
+<p>Having described summer life and occupations, and before going to winter
+camp, something<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> must be said about our headquarters ranch, situated
+some twenty miles off. Here were the grain-house, the hay stacks, wagon
+sheds, corrals, the kitchen, general messroom, the bunk house and
+private rooms for ourselves. There was a constant succession of
+visitors. Nearly every day some stranger or neighbour "happened" in for
+a meal. Everyone was welcome, or at least got free board and lodging and
+horse feed. There being a paid cook made things different.</p>
+
+<p>But it was hot down here in summer-time, hot and dry and hardly
+attractive. The lower part of the range was much of it sandy country.
+With the temperature at 110&deg; in the shade the sand would get so hot as
+to be almost painful to walk on, certainly disagreeable to sit on. And
+when one wanted to rest the only shade you could find would be in the
+shadow of your horse, which at noon meant your sitting right under him;
+and your saddle, on remounting, would be so hot as to be really very
+uncomfortable. Between round-ups there was not much work to do. Before
+round-up a general shoeing of the horses had to be gone through. I shod
+my own, except in cases of young ones undergoing the operation for the
+first time, when assistance was needed. Except poker every night we had
+few amusements. It was almost a daily programme, however, to get our
+carbines and six-shooters out<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> and practise at targets, firing away box
+after box of ammunition. No wonder we were pretty expert shots, but
+indeed it needs much practice to become so.</p>
+
+<p>It should be said that amongst our visitors there were, no doubt, many
+angels whom we entertained unawares; but also, and no doubt of this,
+many blackguards and desperadoes, "toughs" and horse-thieves.</p>
+
+<p>An old English sailor, who had farmed a little in the mountains, was on
+one occasion left alone at our headquarters to take charge of it during
+our absence on the work. Two men came along and demanded something which
+the old man would not give and they deliberately shot him dead. We
+caught the miscreants, but could not convict them, their plea being
+self-defence. They really should have been hung without trial.</p>
+
+<p>Lynchings of cattle and horse thieves and other criminals were not then
+uncommon. I have twice come on corpses swinging in the wind, hung from
+trees or telegraph posts. But the most distressing sight witnessed was
+in Denver's fair city when a man, still alive, was dragged to death all
+through the streets by a rope round his neck, followed by a howling mob!</p>
+
+<p>By the way, a strange couple once surprised me at my mountain camp,
+viz., two individuals dressed much alike, both wearing the hair in a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span>
+long pigtail, both dressed in leather "chaps," high-heeled boots,
+woollen shirts, big felt hats, rifles and six-shooters, and both as
+"hard"-looking as they ever make them. One was a man, the other a woman!
+They volunteered to me nothing of their business, but I watched the
+horses a little closer. And I may as well here give another little
+incident that occurred in my summer camp.</p>
+
+<p>A United States cavalry officer appeared one day at my door and demanded
+that I at once move the cattle off the Reservation. This was a sudden
+and rather big order. I told him that I was alone and could not possibly
+do it at once, or for several days. "Oh," he said, he "would help me,"
+he having some forty nigger troopers with him. "All right," I said, and
+took the men along with me, got back behind the cattle, spread these
+novel cowboys out and began to drive, when such a shouting and shooting
+of guns took place as never was heard before in these parts. We drove
+the cattle, really only a thousand head or so, back to the supposed
+Reservation border, quite unmarked and vague, and so left them, only to
+wander back again at their leisure to where they had been. The officer
+made all kinds of threats that he would turn the Indians loose on them,
+but nothing more was then done.</p>
+
+<p>At my winter camp, some thirty-five miles<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> below headquarters, there was
+a good three-roomed frame house, a corral, etc., and the Little Colorado
+River flowed past near by. It was to these lower parts of the range that
+most of our cattle drifted in winter time. Two or three other large
+cattle-ranches marched with us there.</p>
+
+<p>A small Mormon settlement was not far off. These Mormons were a most
+venturesome people and daring settlers. Certainly they are the most
+successful colonists and a very happy people. Living in close community,
+having little or no money and very little live stock to tempt Providence
+(rustlers), theirs is a peaceable, though possibly dull, existence. They
+had frequent dances, but we Gentiles were not admitted to them.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p>
+
+<p>In winter one lives better than in the hot weather, table supplies being
+more varied. In summer, excepting during the round-ups, we never had
+butcher meat, and in my camp butter, eggs and milk were not known; but
+in winter I always had lots of good beef, potatoes, butter and some eggs
+from the Mormons, but still no milk. This was varied, too, by wild duck,
+teal and snipe shot along the river bottom.</p>
+
+<p>Talking of snipe, it is very wonderful how a wounded bird will carefully
+dress and apply down and feathers to the injury, and even apply splints
+and ligatures to a broken limb.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>My principal duties at this season consisted in riding the range on the
+lookout for unbranded calves, many calves always being missed on the
+round-up. This was really rather good sport. Such calves are generally
+big, strong, fat, and run like jack-rabbits, and it takes a fast and
+keen pony to catch them. Occasionally you would be lucky enough to find
+a maverick, a calf or a yearling so old as to have left its mother and
+be still running loose without a brand and therefore without an owner.
+It was particular satisfaction to get one's rope, and therefore one's
+brand, on to such a rover, though it might really not be the progeny of
+your own cattle at all. It was no easy job either for one man alone to
+catch and brand such a big and wild creature, especially if among the
+brush and cedar trees. A certain stimulant to your work was the fact
+that you were not the only one out on a maverick hunt. There were
+others, such as your neighbours, or even independent gentlemen, expert
+with the rope and branding-iron, who never bought a cow critter in their
+lives, but started their herds by thus stealing all the calves they
+could lay hands on. A small crooked iron rod, an iron ring, or even an
+old horseshoe, did duty as branding-iron on these occasions. The ring
+was favoured by the latter class of men, as it could be carried in the
+pocket and not excite suspicion. Of course we branded,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> marked and
+altered these calves wherever we found them. "Hair branding" was a
+method resorted to by dishonest cowboys; by burning the hair alone, and
+not the hide, they would apparently brand the calf with its rightful
+owner's brand; but later, when the calf had grown bigger and left its
+mother, they would slap on their own brand with comparative safety. One
+had to be constantly on the lookout for such tricks.</p>
+
+<p>The Mexicans, too, were fond of butchering a beef now and then, so they
+too required watching; but my busiest time came with early spring, when
+the cattle were in a poor and weak condition. The river-bed, too, was
+then in its boggiest state. Cattle went in to drink, stuck, and could
+not get out again, and thus some seasons we lost enormous numbers of
+them. Therefore I "rode bog" every day up and down the river. When I
+found an animal in the mud I had to rope it by the horns or feet and
+drag it by main force to solid ground. A stout, well-trained horse was
+needed. It was hard, dirty work and exasperating, as many of those you
+pulled out never got up again, and if they did would invariably charge
+you. No special tackle was used; you remain in the saddle, wrap the rope
+round the horn and dig the spurs in. Of course, on your own beat, you
+dragged out all you could, no matter of what brand; but when, as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> often
+happened, you failed to get them out, and they belonged to someone else,
+you were not allowed to shoot them; so that there the poor creatures lay
+for days, and perhaps even weeks, dying a lingering, but I am glad to
+think and believe not a painful, death. What an awful death for a
+reasoning, conscious man. Dumb animals, like cattle, happily seem to
+anticipate and hope for nothing one way or another. Once I found a mare
+in the river in such a position under a steep bank that nothing could be
+done for her. Her young colt was on the bank waiting and wondering. Very
+regretfully I had to leave them and carefully avoided passing that way
+for some days to come till the tragedy had terminated. The Little
+Colorado River, and afterwards the Pecos River in New Mexico, I have
+often seen so thick with dead and dying cattle that a man might walk up
+and down the river on the bodies of these unfortunate creatures. The
+stench would become horrible, till the spring flood came to sweep the
+carcasses to the sea or covered them up with deposit.</p>
+
+<p>Quicksand is much more holding than mere river mud. If only the tip of
+the tail or one single foot of the animal is covered by the stuff, then
+even two stout horses will not pull it out. The Pecos River is
+particularly dangerous on account of its quicksandy nature, and it was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span>
+my custom, when having to cross the mess wagon, to send across the
+ramuda of two or three hundred saddle horses to tramp the river-bed
+solid beforehand. On one occasion when crossing quite a small stream my
+two driving ponies went down to their hocks, so that I had to cut the
+traces and belabour them hard to get them out. Had they not got out at
+once they never would have done so. My ambulance remained in the
+river-bed all night and till a Mexican with a bull-team luckily came
+along next day.</p>
+
+<p>At the Meadows, my winter camp, I had to fill a contract of two or three
+fat steers for the town butcher every week. With a man to help me we had
+to go far afield and scour the range to get suitable animals, the best
+and fattest beeves being always the furthest out. After corralling,
+which might mean a tremendous amount of hard galloping and repeated
+failures, the most difficult part of the job was the actual killing,
+which I accomplished by shooting them with a six-shooter, not a carbine.
+Only when a big steer has its head down to charge can you plant a bullet
+in exactly the right spot, a very small one, too, on the forehead, when
+he will drop like a stone. It was very pretty practice, but risky, as to
+get them to charge you must be afoot and inside the corral. The butcher
+was rather<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> astonished when I first accomplished this trick, but it
+saved time and a lot of trouble. Such were my winter duties.</p>
+
+<p>Sometimes neighbours would look in, and the weekly mail and home papers
+helped to pass the time. I read a great deal, and so the solitariness of
+the position was not so trying as one might suppose. Indeed, books were
+more to me than the neighbours' society.</p>
+
+<p>"Incidents" occurred, of course, but I will only mention one. In winter
+I only kept up two saddle horses, picked ponies, favourites and almost
+friends. They were fed with grain night and morning, and, to save hay,
+were allowed to graze out at night. They regularly returned at early
+morning for their feed, so I never had to go after them. One morning,
+however, they did not appear. It was quite unaccountable to me and very
+awkward, as it left me afoot and unable to do anything. Not till about
+10 a.m. did they come galloping in, greatly excited, their tails in the
+air, puffing and snorting. It did not look quite right. Someone had been
+chasing them. At noon, while preparing early dinner, a man, a stranger,
+rode up to the house, and of course was invited to eat. He was very
+reticent, in fact would hardly speak at all, and gave no hint as to who
+he was or anything about himself. While eating there was suddenly a
+rapid suc<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span>cession of rifle-shots heard outside. We both rushed to the
+door and saw a man riding for life straight to the house, with half a
+dozen others shooting at him from horseback. He was not touched, only
+his horse being killed at the door. The new-comer and my strange guest
+at once showed that they were very intimate indeed, so that I quickly
+and easily put two and two together. The following party in the meantime
+had stopped and spread out, taking positions behind the low hills and
+completely commanding the house. Only their big hats showed and I could
+not make out whether they were Mexicans or white men. My two guests
+would tell me nothing, except to assert that they knew nothing of their
+followers, or why they began shooting. Realizing that these two had me
+at their mercy, that they could make me do chores for them, fetch water,
+cook, feed and attend to the horses till nightfall, when with my own two
+fresh mounts they might possibly make a bolt for it, I got a bit
+anxious, and determined to find out who the larger party were. So
+walking out and waving my hat I caught their attention and, on advancing
+further, one of the party came out and met me. They were neighbouring
+cattlemen, and explained that the two men in my house were rustlers, and
+they were determined to take them dead or alive. They asked me to join
+their party as they were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> going to "shoot up" the house if necessary. To
+this I would not consent and went back. After a deal of talk and
+persuasion the two men finally agreed to give me their guns, preliminary
+to meeting two of the other party, who were also asked to approach
+unarmed. They met, much to my relief, and when, somehow or other, the
+two men allowed themselves to be surrounded by the rest they saw the
+game was up and surrendered. Then the funny thing happened and the one
+reason for the telling of this story. They all came down to the house,
+had dinner together, chatted and cracked jokes, and not a word was said
+about the immediate trouble. They were all "punchers," had worked
+together, knew each other's affairs, etc., etc. The one party was about
+to send the other to the penitentiary, or perhaps the gallows; but you
+would have thought it was only a pleasant gathering of long-separated
+friends. The two rustlers were lodged in the county jail, quickly broke
+out, and soon afterwards died in their "boots," one at the hands of the
+sheriff.</p>
+
+<p>For tracking jail-breakers Indians, Navajoes or Apaches were sometimes
+employed, and the marvellous skill they showed was simply astonishing
+and inexplicable; all done by reading the "sign" left by the escaping
+party, but "sign" often quite unnoticeable to the white<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> man. Indeed, an
+Indian would follow a trail by sign much as a hound will do by scent.</p>
+
+<p>Talking of scent, the homing instinct of horses and cattle is very
+wonderful and mysterious; but it is not generally known that a horse has
+also great power of scent. A horse will follow its mate (nearly all
+horses have their chums) many miles merely by sense of smell, as my long
+experience of them has amply proved to me. On one occasion I for some
+reason displaced the near horse of my driving team and hitched up
+another. After driving a distance of fifteen miles and returning
+homewards on the same road, soon in the distance could be seen said near
+horse busy with nose on the ground picking up the trail, and so absorbed
+in it that even when we got up quite close he did not notice us. When he
+did recognize his chum and companion his evident satisfaction was
+affecting.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTE:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> <i>See</i> Appendix, Note 1.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV</h2>
+
+<h3>ODDS AND ENDS</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Scent and Instinct&mdash;Mules&mdash;Roping Contests&mdash;Antelopes&mdash;The
+Skunk&mdash;Garnets&mdash;Leave Arizona.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>This shall be a sketchy chapter of odds and ends, but more or less
+interesting according to the individual reader.</p>
+
+<p>The horse's intelligence is nothing compared to that of the mule, and as
+riding animal in rough country a mule should always be used. In Mexico,
+Central American States and the Andes mules are alone used; and what
+splendid, even handsome, reliable creatures they are on roads, or rather
+trails, such as it would be hazardous to take horses over. I once saw
+the unusual sight of two big strong mules (our ammunition pack animals)
+roll together down a very steep hillside. Happily neither mules nor
+loads were at all damaged, but it was a steepish hill, as on our
+returning and trying to climb it we had to dismount and hang on to the
+horses' tails. Another good point about mules is that they will not
+founder themselves. Put an open sack of grain before a hungry mule and
+he will eat what he wants, but never in excess, whereas<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> a horse would
+gorge and founder himself at once.</p>
+
+<p>As said before, the homing instinct of horses and cattle is very
+remarkable. I have known horses "shipped" by a railway train in closed
+cars to a distance of over 400 miles, some of which on being turned
+loose found their way back to their old range. Cattle, too, may be
+driven a hundred or two hundred miles through the roughest country,
+without roads or trails of any kind, and even after being held there for
+several weeks will at once start home and take exactly the same route as
+that they were driven over, even though there be no "sign" of any kind
+to guide them and certainly no scent.</p>
+
+<p>On my shooting and fishing trips I rode one horse and packed another.
+The packed horse, on going out, had to be led, of course, unless indeed
+he was my saddle-horse's chum. But on going home, after even a couple of
+weeks' absence, I simply turned the pack-horse loose, hit him a lick
+with the rope, and off he would go with the utmost confidence as to the
+route, and follow the trail we had come out on, each time a different
+trail be it remembered, with ridiculous exactitude; yet there was no
+visible track or sign of any kind. Indeed, I would often find myself
+puzzled as to our whereabouts and feel quite confident we were at fault,
+when suddenly some<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> familiar tree or landmark, noticed on going out,
+would be recognized.</p>
+
+<p>Parts of our Arizona range were covered with great beds of broken
+malpais rock, really black lava, hard as iron, with edges sharp and
+jagged. Over such ground we would gallop at full speed and with little
+hesitation, trusting absolutely to our locally-bred ponies to see us
+through. English horses could never have done it, and probably no
+old-country horseman would have taken the chances. We got bad falls now
+and then, but very seldom indeed considering conditions.</p>
+
+<p>The bits used then were murderous contrivances, being of the kind called
+spade or ring bits. By means of them a horse could be thrown on his
+haunches with slight effort, even his jaw may be broken. Luckily the bit
+is little used by the cowboy. His horse knows its painful character, and
+so obeys the slightest raising of the rider's hand. It should also be
+remarked that the cow-pony is guided, not by pulling either the right or
+left rein, but by the rider carrying his bridle hand over to the <i>left</i>
+if he wants to go to the left, and vice versa. There is no pulling on
+the mouth. The pony does not understand that; it is the slight pressure
+of the right rein on the <i>right</i> side of the neck that turns him to the
+<i>left</i>.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The reata in those days was nearly always made of plaited raw hide, and
+often made by the boys themselves, though a good reata required a long
+time to complete and peculiar skill in the making of it. Quirts
+(quadras) and horse hobbles were also made of raw hide.</p>
+
+<p>As everyone knows, the horn of the saddle is used in America to hold
+roped cattle with. In South America a ring fixed to the surcingle is
+used; while in Guatemala and Costa Rica the reata is tied to the end of
+the horse's tail!</p>
+
+<p>It is a very pretty sight to see a skilled roper (the best are often
+Mexicans) at work in a corral or in a herd; or better still, when after
+a wild steer on the prairie. But roping is hardly ever used nowadays,
+one reason of the "passing" of the old-time cowboy. We used to have
+great annual roping competitions in New Mexico and Texas, when handsome
+prizes were given to the men who would rope and tie down a big steer in
+quickest time. I once or twice went in myself to these competitions and
+was lucky enough to do fairly well, being mounted on a thoroughly
+trained roping horse; but it is a chancy affair, as often the best man
+may unluckily get a lazy sort of steer to operate on, and it is much
+more difficult to throw down such an animal than a wild, active,
+fast-galloping one; for this reason, that on getting the rope over his
+horns you must <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span>roll him over, or rather <i>flop</i> him over, on to his
+back by a sudden and skilful action of your horse on the rope. If
+properly thrown, or flopped hard enough, the steer will lie dazed or
+stunned for about half a minute. During that short period, and only
+during that short period, you must slip off your horse, run up to the
+steer and quickly tie his front and hind feet together, so tightly and
+in such a way that he cannot get up. Then you throw up your hands or
+your hat, and your time is taken. While you are out of your saddle your
+horse will, if well trained, himself hold the steer down by carefully
+adjusting the strain on the rope which still connects the animal's horns
+with the horn on the saddle.</p>
+
+<div class="center" style="padding-top: 2em; ">
+ <a name="img007" id="img007"></a>
+<img src="images/img007.jpg"
+    alt="WOUND UP."
+    title="WOUND UP." />
+</div>
+
+<h4>"WOUND UP." (Horse tangled in rope.)<br />(By C.M. Russel.)</h4>
+
+
+<p>I may here tell a wonderful story of a "buck" nigger who sometimes
+attended these gatherings. He was himself a cowboy, and indeed worked in
+my neighbourhood and so I knew him well. He was a big, strong, husky
+negro, with a neck and shoulders like a bull's. You cannot hurt a nigger
+any way. Well, this man's unique performance was to ride after a steer,
+the bigger and wilder the better, and on getting up to him to jump off
+his horse, seize the steer by a horn and the muzzle, then stoop down and
+grip the animal's upper lip with his teeth, turn his hands loose, and so
+by means of his powerful jaws and neck alone throw down and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> topple the
+steer over. The negro took many chances, and often the huge steer would
+fall on him in such a way as would have broken the neck or ribs of any
+ordinary white man. In this case also the steer must be an active one
+and going at a good pace, otherwise he could not be thrown properly.</p>
+
+<p>Stock-whips were never allowed. Useful as they may be at times, still
+the men are liable to ill-treat the cattle, and we got on quite well
+without them. Dogs, too, of course, were never used and never allowed on
+the range. They so nearly resemble the wolf that their presence always
+disturbs the cattle.</p>
+
+<p>This deprivation of canine society, as it may be imagined, was keenly
+felt by us all, perhaps more especially by myself. Had I only then had
+the companionship of certain former doggy friends life would have been
+much better worth living. As a protection at night too, when out on long
+journeys across the country, during the hunting and fishing trips, or
+even at the permanent camps, the presence of a faithful watch-dog would
+probably have saved me from many a restless night.</p>
+
+<p>The Navajo Indian's method of hunting antelope was to strew cedar
+branches or other brush in the form of a very long wing to a corral,
+lying loose and flat on the ground. The antelope on being driven against
+it will never cross an<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> obstruction of such a nature, though it only be
+a foot high, but will continue to run along it and so be finally driven
+into the corral.</p>
+
+<p>And antelope are such inquisitive animals! On the Staked Plains of New
+Mexico the Mexicans approach them by dressing themselves up in any
+ridiculous sort of fashion, so as least to resemble a human being. In
+this way they would not approach the antelope, but the antelope would
+approach them, curious to find out the nature of such an unusual
+monstrosity. Antelope, there, were still very plentiful, and even in my
+own little pasture there was a band of some 300 head. Only at certain
+times of the year did they bunch up together; at other times they,
+though still present, were hardly noticeable.</p>
+
+<p>I would like to make note of the curious misnaming of wild animals in
+North America. Thus, the antelope or pronghorn is not a true antelope,
+the buffalo is not a buffalo, the Rocky Mountain goat is not a goat, and
+the elk is not an elk. By the same token the well-known "American aloe,"
+or century plant, is not an aloe, but an agave.</p>
+
+<p>While in Arizona I used to carry in a saddle pocket a small sketch-book
+and pencil, and on finding one of the beautiful wild flowers the Rocky
+Mountains are so famous for, that is, a new kind, I would at once get
+down and take<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> a sketch of it, with notes as to colour, etc. The boys
+were at first a bit surprised, and no doubt wondered how easily an
+apparent idiot could amuse himself. I was considerably surprised myself
+once when busy sketching on the banks of a brawling stream in the
+mountains. A sudden grunt as of a bear at my elbow nearly scared me into
+the river. On turning round, there was an armed Apache brave standing
+close behind me; but he was only one of a hunting party. What sentiment
+that grunt expressed I never learnt.</p>
+
+<p>It is remarkable how a range or tract of country that has been
+overstocked or over-grazed will rapidly produce an entirely new flora,
+of a class repugnant to the palate of cattle and horses. In this way our
+mountain range in particular, when in course of a very few years it
+became eaten out, quickly decked itself in a gorgeous robe of brilliant
+blossoms; weeds we called them, and weeds no doubt they were, as our
+cattle refused to touch them. Certain nutritious plants, natives of the
+soil, such as the mescal, quite common when we first entered the
+country, were so completely killed out by the cattle that later not a
+single plant of the kind could be found.</p>
+
+<p>Amongst the fauna of Arizona was, of course, the ubiquitous prairie dog;
+and as a corollary, so to speak, the little prairie owl (<i>Athene<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span>
+cunicularis</i>), which inhabits deserted dog burrows and is the same bird
+as occupies the Biscacha burrows in Argentina. Rattlesnakes, so common
+around dog-towns, enter the burrows to secure the young marmots. Another
+animal frequently seen was the chaparral-cock or road-runner, really the
+earth cuckoo (<i>Geococcyx Mexicanus</i>), called paisano or pheasant, or
+Correcamino, by the Mexicans. It is a curious creature, with a very long
+tail, and runs at a tremendous rate, seldom taking to flight. Report
+says that it will build round a sleeping rattlesnake an impervious ring
+of cactus spines. Its feathers are greatly valued by Indians as being
+"good medicine," and being as efficacious as the horseshoe is with us.</p>
+
+<p>A still more curious animal, not often seen, was the well-named Gila
+monster or Escorpion (<i>Heloderma suspectum</i>), the only existing animal
+that fills the description of the Basilisk or Cockatrice of medi&aelig;val
+times; not the <i>Basilicus Americanus</i>, which is an innocent herbivorous
+lizard. This Gila monster is a comparatively small, but very hideous
+creature, in appearance like a lizard, very sluggish in its movements,
+and rightly owning the worst of reputations. Horned toads, also hideous
+in appearance, and tarantulas (<i>Mygales</i>), very large centipedes and
+scorpions, were common, and lived on, or rather were killed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> because of
+their reputation, but they seldom did anyone harm.</p>
+
+<p>But the most highly appreciated, that is the most feared and detested,
+of wild creatures was the common skunk, found everywhere, mostly a night
+wanderer and a hibernator. He is a most fearless animal, having such
+abundant and well-reasoned confidence in his mounted battery, charged
+with such noxious gases as might well receive the attention of our
+projectile experts. The first time I ever saw one he came into my
+mountain hut. Knowing only that he was "varmint" I endeavoured to kill
+him quickly with a spade. Alas! the spade fell just a moment too late
+and henceforth that hut was uninhabitable for a month. The only way to
+get one out of the house is to pour buckets of cold water on it. That
+keeps the tail down (unlike a horse, which cannot kick when his tail is
+up); but when his tail goes up, then look out! The skunk is also more
+dreaded by the cowboy and the frontiers-man than the rattlesnake. It is
+their belief that a bite from this creature will always convey
+hydrophobia. Being a night prowler it frequents cow camps, and often
+crawls over the beds spread on the ground, and it certainly has a habit
+of biting any exposed part of the human body. When it does so, the
+bitten man at once starts off to Texas, where at certain places one can
+hire<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> the use of a madstone. The madstone is popularly supposed to be an
+accretion found somewhere in the system of a white stag. It is of a
+porous nature, and if applied to a fresh wound will extract and absorb
+the poison serum. Texans swear that it "sticks" only if there be poison
+present&mdash;does not stick otherwise. A fanciful suggestion! And yet, no
+doubt, the skunk does sometimes convey hydrophobia through its bite. I
+have myself often had the pleasant experience of feeling and knowing
+that a skunk was crawling over my carefully-covered-up body. But enough
+of this very objectionable creature.</p>
+
+<p>In Texas some of the boys used to carry in their pockets a piece of
+"rattlesnake root," which when scraped and swallowed after a bite was
+held to be an antidote, though otherwise a virulent poison.</p>
+
+<p>In this placid land of ours, so free of pests, mosquitoes, fleas and
+leeches, we are also free of the true skunk; but we do have, as perhaps
+you are aware, a small creature armed and protected in much the same
+way. This is the bombardier-beetle, common in certain other countries,
+but also found in England, which if chased will discharge from its stern
+a puff of bluish-white smoke, accompanied by a slight detonation. It can
+fire many shots from its stern chasers. It is said that a highly
+volatile liquid is secreted by glands,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> which when it meets the air
+passes into vapour so suddenly as to produce the explosion.</p>
+
+<p>The Mexicans of the United States deserve more than a passing notice.
+Many of them have Indian blood and are called Greasers, but the majority
+are of fairly pure Spanish descent. Contact with the Americans has made
+them vicious and treacherous. They have been robbed of their lands,
+their cattle and their horses, bullied and ill-treated in every possible
+way. But even now many of them retain their character, almost universal
+amongst their compatriots in Old Mexico, for hospitality, unaffected
+kindness, good breeding and politeness. A Mexican village in autumn is
+picturesque with crimson "rastras" of Chile pepper hung on the walls of
+the adobe houses. To the Mexicans we owe, or rather through them to the
+Aztecs, the delightfully tasty and delicious enchiladas and tamales.</p>
+
+<p>Among native animals should not be forgotten the common jacket-rabbit
+(hare). She affords capital coursing, and someone has said runs faster
+than an ice boat, or a note maturing at a bank, so she must indeed be
+speedy. It is interesting to recall that puss in Shakespeare's time was
+<i>he</i> and not <i>she</i>. Among our feathered friends the humming-bird was not
+uncommon. These lovely but so tiny little morsels are migrants. Indeed
+one of the family, and one of the tiniest and most<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> beautiful, is known
+to summer in Alaska and winter in Central America; thus accomplishing a
+flight twice a year of over two thousand miles.</p>
+
+<p>An interesting little note too may be made of the fact that the garnets
+of Arizona are principally found on ant-heaps, being brought to the
+surface by the ants and thrown aside as obstructions only fit for the
+waste-basket. But they are very beautiful gems and are regularly
+collected by the Indians.</p>
+
+<p>There was little or no gold mining in our part of the territory; but
+there were current many tales of fabulously rich lost Claims, lost
+because of the miners having been massacred by the Indians or other
+causes. In likely places I have myself used the pan with the usual
+enthusiasm, but luckily never with much success.</p>
+
+<p>The practice of that very curious custom, the "couvade," seems to be
+still in force among some of the Arizona Indian tribes, among whom so
+many other mysterious rites and customs prevail.</p>
+
+<p>The loco-weed (yerba-loco) was common in our country and ruined many of
+our horses, but more about it hereafter.</p>
+
+<p>After ten years, a long period of this life in Arizona, an offer came to
+me which, my partners consenting, was gladly accepted, viz., to take
+charge of and operate certain cattle-ranches in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> New Mexico in the
+interests of a Scottish Land and Mortgage Company. Things had not been
+going well with us and the future held out no prospects of improvement.
+Also I had been loyal to my agreement not to take or seek any share in
+the management of affairs, and the natural desire came to me to assume
+the responsibility and position of a boss. But dear me! had I foreseen
+the nature of the work before me, and the troubles in store, my
+enthusiasm would not have been quite so great.</p>
+
+<div class="center" style="padding-top: 2em; ">
+ <a name="img008" id="img008"></a>
+<img src="images/img008.jpg"
+    alt="WATERING A HERD."
+    title="WATERING A HERD." />
+</div>
+
+<h4>WATERING A HERD.</h4>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V</h2>
+
+<h3>RANCHING IN NEW MEXICO</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The Scottish Company&mdash;My Difficulties and Dangers&mdash;Mustang
+Hunting&mdash;Round-up described&mdash;Shipping Cattle&mdash;Railroad
+Accidents&mdash;Close out Scotch Company's Interests.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>Bidding good-bye to Arizona I travelled to Las Vegas, New Mexico, now
+quite an important place. Calling on Mr L&mdash;&mdash;, the manager of the
+Mortgage Company, and the Company's lawyers, the position of affairs was
+thus stated to me. The Company had loaned a large sum of money to a
+cattleman named M&mdash;&mdash;, who owned a large ranch with valuable
+water-claims and a very fine though small herd of cattle. M&mdash;&mdash; had paid
+no interest for several years and attempted to repudiate the loan, so
+the Company decided to foreclose and take possession. Well, that seemed
+all right; so after getting power of attorney papers, etc., from the
+Company, I started down to the ranch, some eighty miles and near Fort
+Sumner, and introduced myself to M&mdash;&mdash;, who at once refused to turn over
+the property to me or to anyone else, and sent me back to Las Vegas in a
+somewhat puzzled state of mind. Recounting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> my experience to Mr L&mdash;&mdash;
+and the lawyers, after a long confab they decided that I should go down
+again and <i>take</i> possession. They refused me the services of a sheriff
+or a deputy to serve the papers and represent the law. No, I was to take
+possession in any way my wits might suggest; they merely proposing that
+everything I did I should put on paper and make affidavit to and send up
+to them. By this time I had learned that M&mdash;&mdash; was very much stirred up
+about it, was quite determined to give nothing up, and that really he
+was a dangerous man who, if pushed to extremities, might do something
+desperate. The lawyers told me there was another, a right, usual and
+legal way of taking possession, but for private reasons they did not
+wish to proceed in that way; and so I finally agreed to go down again
+and do what I could.</p>
+
+<p>Buying some horses and hiring a Mexican vaquero to show me the country,
+and especially to be a witness to whatever took place, we pulled out for
+Fort Sumner. The spring round-up was about to begin, and near by I found
+M&mdash;&mdash;'s "outfit" wagon, "cavayad" of horses, his full force of "hands"
+and the foreman H&mdash;&mdash;. After dining with them I pulled out my papers to
+show H&mdash;&mdash; who I was and told him I had come there to take possession of
+M&mdash;&mdash;- 's saddle horses, the whole "ramuda" in fact of nearly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> a hundred
+head. Oh, no! he had no instructions to give them up; he did not know
+anything of the matter and he certainly would not let me touch them! I
+said I had come to carry out my orders and meant to do so; and mounting,
+rode out to gather up the grazing ponies. At once they came after me,
+not believing that anyone would dare do such a thing in their presence,
+and began to jostle me, with more evil intentions in their eyes.
+Desisting at once, and before they had gone too far, I told them that
+that was all I wanted, said good-bye in as friendly a way as possible,
+and went before a Justice of the Peace and made affidavit of having
+attempted to take possession of the horses till resisted by force, in
+fact, that physical violence had been used against me. This was sent to
+Las Vegas, and in due course the lawyers advised me that it was
+satisfactory and recommended me to adopt similar methods when attempting
+to get possession of the ranches, cattle, stock horses, etc.</p>
+
+<p>This was a funny position to be in! M&mdash;&mdash;was a popular man; the other
+cattlemen would certainly side with him and resent such novel and
+apparently high-handed proceedings. Myself was an entire stranger in the
+whole of that huge country, devoted solely to cattle interests, and of
+course did not have a friend nor did expect to have any. In fact M&mdash;&mdash;
+'s appellation of me as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> that "damned Scotsman" became disagreeably
+familiar. The round-up was then a long way off down the river, some 100
+miles, working up towards Fort Sumner; so I decided to visit the
+ranches. We rode out to one where was a house (unoccupied) and a spring,
+there stayed one night, and on departing left an old coffee-pot, some
+flour, etc., as proof of habitation and so gave myself the right to
+claim having taken possession. From there to the headquarters ranch was
+some thirty-five miles. On our route we came across a number of M&mdash;&mdash;'s
+stock horses (he claimed about four to five hundred) and, taking the
+opportunity, we got together some 200 head, inspected them, and in this
+way, the only way open to me, claimed having taken possession. But now
+with fear and trembling we approached the ranch where M&mdash;&mdash; and his
+family, as I knew, were residing. A hundred yards from the house was the
+main spring of water, to which and at which we went and camped for
+dinner. Somehow or other M&mdash;&mdash; heard of our presence and out he came, a
+shot-gun in his hand, fury in his eyes, and his wife clinging to his
+coat-tails. No doubt he meant to shoot, but I was quite ready for him
+and put a bold face on it. Things looked nasty indeed and I was
+determined to fire should he once raise his gun. Perhaps this boldness
+made him think a bit, and I was very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> much relieved indeed when he
+resorted to expressive language instead of any more formidable
+demonstration. Though it was necessary to tell him that I was come to
+take possession of the ranch, he was not on to the affidavit game, and
+the result was that on returning to Fort Sumner I swore to having
+attempted to take possession but had been resisted by force. As
+explained before, such an affidavit was, in the eye of the law, a strong
+point in our contention of having taken possession. At least, so our
+legal advisers affirmed.</p>
+
+<p>From Fort Sumner I then started for the round-up, taking with me a white
+man, the Mexican having got scared and quit. Having bought more horses,
+enough to fully mount two men, we joined the work. Fortunately M&mdash;&mdash;'s
+outfit had gone up the river with a large herd of cattle, and was during
+their absence represented by the foreman of another ranch. What I did
+was to get all the foremen together (there were some ten wagons on the
+work) and explain to them who I was, that I was there to work and handle
+the M&mdash;&mdash; cattle, that if they would help me I should be obliged, but
+they were to understand that they would be regarded as doing it for my
+Company. They only said they were going to help in the usual way to
+gather the cattle and brand the calves; that I could work<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> or not as I
+liked; that, in fact, it was none of their business as to whose the
+cattle were. So after working on a bit an affidavit was sent in that I
+had "worked" the cattle and had <i>met no resistance</i>. But mine was an
+extremely disagreeable position.</p>
+
+<p>During this round-up I noticed that M&mdash;&mdash;was carefully gathering all the
+steers and bulls of any age he could find. I notified my people and
+asked them to send the sheriff down to help me. Things were coming to a
+point as it were; it was evidently M&mdash;&mdash;'s intention to drive the
+steers out of the territory, knowing that once over the Texas line we
+could no longer enjoin him. His whole force of men depended on this to
+get their wages out of these steers, as every one of them was at least
+three months in arrears, some of them six, twelve, and even eighteen
+months. Thus I knew they would make every effort to succeed in the drive
+and would be desperate men to interfere with. The last day of the
+round-up was over, and in the evening I was careful to note the
+direction taken by the herd.</p>
+
+<p>In the meantime L&mdash;&mdash; had sent me a restraining paper to serve and I was
+of course determined to do it; but late that night my relief was great
+to see the sheriff, a Mexican, drive into camp. Here was a proper
+representative of the law at last, though I do not think he himself<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span>
+liked the job overmuch, officers of his breed being habitually treated
+with contempt by the white men. We agreed to take up the trail early
+next morning, knowing that the distance to the line was forty miles
+straight across the Staked Plains, no fences, no roads or trails, and no
+water for thirty miles at least. So up and off before daybreak, he
+driving a smart pair of horses, I with only my saddle pony, at as quick
+a gait as a wheeled vehicle could move; drove till his team began to
+play out, when luckily we came upon a mustang-hunter's camp and were
+supplied with two fresh mounts. Pushing on we at last spied in the far
+distance what was unmistakably a herd of cattle. Experience told me that
+the cattle had been watered, a fact which was thankfully noted. Watered
+cattle cannot be driven except at a very slow walk, and the herd was
+still seven or eight miles from the Texas line. M&mdash;&mdash;'s foreman had
+made a fatal mistake! Had he not watered them they might have escaped
+us. They must have thought they had hoodwinked me and were probably then
+rejoicing at their success. They had certainly made a noble effort,
+having travelled all night and on till noon next day at a speed I had
+not thought possible. (There were even bulls in the herd.) One can
+imagine the feelings of the party when they at last saw us two riding at
+top speed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> directly on their trail. Cuss words must have flown freely,
+and no doubt the more desperate ones talked resistance. I was really
+anxious myself as to what course they would decide on, M&mdash;&mdash; not being
+with them, and they thinking of nothing but the settlement of their
+wages. On coming up to them they looked about as "mad" as any men could
+be. But they decided rightly; and seeing the game was up, merely tried
+to get me to promise to pay their back wages. This I would not do, but
+said there was time enough to talk that over afterwards; that meantime
+the herd must be driven back to its proper range, and to this they
+finally agreed. Word was brought in that M&mdash;&mdash; was lying out on the
+prairie, prostrated by the sun, helped no doubt by his realizing that
+his little scheme had been defeated. We had him brought into camp, but I
+declined to see him and returned to Fort Sumner. Soon afterwards M&mdash;&mdash;
+threw up the sponge, so to speak, and agreed to turn the property over
+to us. These M&mdash;&mdash; cattle, numbering only 2000, did not justify the
+running of a mess wagon and full outfit, so I made arrangements with a
+very strong neighbouring ranch company to run the cattle for us, only
+myself attending the round-ups to see that our interests were properly
+protected.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime the stock horses must be looked<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> after. Fraudulently M&mdash;&mdash; had
+started new brands on the last two crops of colts, the pick of them
+going into his wife's brand; and her mares ranged with M&mdash;&mdash;'s, now
+ours. The band ran apparently anywhere. They had the whole Staked Plains
+of New Mexico to wander over, there being then absolutely no fences for
+a distance of 200 miles. Some 200 head of the gentler stock ranged near
+home; the balance, claimed to number some 300 more, were mixed up with
+the mustangs and were practically wild creatures, some of them having
+never been rounded up for over two years.</p>
+
+<p>By this time some of M&mdash;&mdash;'s old hands had come over to my side. They
+knew the country, knew how best to handle these horses, and by
+favourable promise I got them to undertake to help in discriminating as
+to which colts were the Company's property and which Mrs M&mdash;&mdash;'s. So I
+put up an "outfit," wagon, cook, mounts for seven or eight men, etc.,
+and set out on a very big undertaking indeed, and one that M&mdash;&mdash;himself
+had not successfully accomplished for several years&mdash;a clean round-up of
+all the stock horses in the country. These Staked Plains (Llanos
+Estacados) were so called because the first road or trail across them
+had to be staked out with poles at more or less long intervals to show
+direction, there being no visible landmarks<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> in that immense level
+country. They are one continuous sweep of slightly undulating, almost
+level land, well grassed, almost without living water anywhere, but
+dotted all over with depressions in the ground, generally circular, some
+of great size, some deeper than others, which we called "dry lakes,"
+from the fact that for most of the year they were nearly all dry, only
+here and there, and at long distances apart, a few would hold sufficient
+muddy water to carry wild horses and antelope through the dry season.
+But which lakes held water and which not was only known to these wild
+mustang bands and our mares that ran with them. We took out with us some
+hundred of the gentler mares, the idea being to graze these round camp,
+and on getting round a bunch of the outlaws to drive them into this herd
+and so hold them. Nearly every bunch we found had mustangs amongst them.
+The mustang stallions we shot whenever possible. They were the cause of
+all our trouble. These stallions did not lead the bands, but fell
+behind, driving the mares in front and compelling them to gallop. When
+pressed, the stud would wheel round as if to challenge his pursuers. He
+presented a fine spectacle, his eyes blazing and his front feet pawing
+the ground. What a picture subject for an artist! The noble stallion,
+for he does look noble, no matter how physically poor a creature<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> he may
+chance to be, wheeling round to challenge and threaten his pursuer, his
+mane and tail sweeping the ground, fury breathing from his nostrils and
+his eyes flashing fire! Is he not gaining time for his mares and progeny
+to get out of danger? A noble object and a gallant deed! Then was the
+time to shoot. But, yourself being all in a sweat and your horse
+excited, straight shooting was difficult to accomplish. We worked on a
+system; on finding a band, one man would do the running for six or eight
+miles, then another would relieve him, and so on, the idea being to get
+outside of them and so gradually round them in to the grazing herd. We
+had special horses kept and used for this purpose, fast and long-winded,
+as the pace had to be great and one must be utterly regardless of dog
+and badger holes, etc. This kind of work we kept up for a couple of
+weeks, some days being successful, some days getting a run but securing
+nothing. We made a satisfactory gathering of all the gentler and more
+tractable mares, but some of the wilder ones we could not hold. At night
+we stood guard over the band, and it was amusing, and even alarming, how
+the stallions would charge out and threaten any rider who approached too
+near his ladies. A good deal of fighting went on too between these very
+jealous gentlemen. As illustrating what the wild stallions are capable
+of,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> I may relate here how, one night when we had a small bunch of quite
+gentle mares and colts in a corral, a mustang stallion approached it,
+tore down the gate poles, took the mares out and forced them to his own
+range, some thirty miles away; and he must have driven them at a great
+pace, as when we followed next morning it was quite that distance before
+we saw any sign of them. The story is told of M&mdash;&mdash; himself who one dark
+night saw what he supposed was one of these depredators, shot it with
+his rifle, and found he had killed the only highly-bred stud he
+possessed.</p>
+
+<p>At last we started homewards, meaning to separate the properties of the
+two claimants; but M&mdash;&mdash; owned the only proper horse-separating corral
+in the whole country, and from obstinacy and cussedness would not let us
+use it. Here was a pretty go! To drive to any other corral would mean
+taking M&mdash;&mdash;'s horses off their proper range and the law forbade us
+doing so, and he knew it. So we were compelled to do what I reckon had
+never been done or attempted before&mdash;separate the horses on the open
+prairie! First we cut out and pushed some half a mile away all mares and
+young unbranded colts to which the Company's title could not be
+disputed; also the stallions and geldings of like nature; then came the
+critical and difficult part of the operation<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span>&mdash;to cut out and separate
+mothers from their unbranded colts, and branded colts, some even one or
+two years old, from their mothers. And not only cut them out, but hold
+them separate for a full couple of hours! No one can know what this
+means but one who has tried it. I had done a fair amount of yearling
+steer-cutting; but hard as that work is, it is nothing compared with the
+separating of colts from their dams. The only way was to suddenly scare
+the colt out and race him as hard as you could go to the other bunch.
+But if by bad luck its mother gave a whinny, back the colt would come
+like a shot bullet, and nothing on earth could stop him. Fortunately I
+had kept a fresh horse in reserve, a very fine fast and active cutting
+pony. I rode him myself, and but for him we would never have
+accomplished what we did. When we got through our best horses were all
+played out. But it was absolutely necessary to move our own mare band to
+the nearest corral at Fort Sumner, a distance of thirty miles, which we
+did that evening. To night-herd them would have been impossible. The
+title to many of these colts, branded and unbranded, was very much mixed
+up, and indeed still in the Courts. Nevertheless I prepared next morning
+to brand them for the Company. The fire was ready, the irons nearly hot,
+when up drove M&mdash;&mdash;in a furious rage. I do not think I ever saw<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> a man
+look so angry and mean. He held a shot-gun in his hand and, presenting
+it at me, swore he would kill me if I dared to proceed any further. My
+foreman, who knew him well, warned me to be careful; there seemed no
+doubt that he meant what he said; he was too mad to dispute with, and
+so! well, his bluff, if it were a bluff, carried the day and I ordered
+the mares to be turned loose. As it turned out afterwards it was well I
+did so, as further legal complications would have resulted. But as I
+began to think of and remember the time that had been spent and the
+amount of hard work in collecting these horses, I felt rather ashamed of
+my action. And yet, can one be expected to practically throw his life
+away, not for a principle, but for a few head of young colts not even
+his own property? But, as said before, the disputed title influenced me
+to some extent; that, and the muzzle of the shot-gun together certainly
+did.</p>
+
+<p>A word about mustangs. They were very wary, cunning animals, keen of
+scent and sharp of eye. Invariably, when one first sighted them, they
+would be one or two miles away, going like the wind, their tails and
+manes flying behind them; and be it noted that when walking or standing
+these manes as well as tails swept the ground. Few of them were of any
+value when captured; many of them were so vicious and full<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> of the devil
+generally that you could do nothing with them, and they never seemed to
+lose that character. Like the guanaco of South America, the wild
+stallion always dungs in one particular spot, near the watering-place,
+so that when hunting them we always looked out for and inspected these
+little hillocks. It may also be mentioned here that guanacos, like wild
+elephants and wild goats, have their dying ground, so to speak, where
+immense quantities of their bones are always found. Cattle when about to
+die select if possible a bush, tree or rocky place, perhaps for privacy,
+quietness, or some other reason unknown to us.</p>
+
+<p>The next and last time we rounded up the stock horses I left the wilder
+ones alone, and gave a contract to some professional mustangers to
+gather them at so much per head. These men never attempt to run them
+down. They "walk" them down. A light wagon, two mules to pull it, lots
+of grain, some water and supplies, are what you need. On sighting a band
+you simply walk your team after them, walk all day and day after day,
+never giving them a rest. Keep their attention occupied and they will
+neglect to feed or drink. Gradually they become accustomed to your
+nearer presence, and finally you can get up quite close and even drive
+them into your camp, where your companions are ready<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> with snare ropes
+to secure them, or at least the particular ones you want to catch.</p>
+
+<p>Prince, a horse I used to ride when mustang hunting, once accidentally
+gave me a severe tumble. He was running at full speed when suddenly a
+foreleg found a deep badger hole; over he went of course, head over
+heels, and it is a miracle it did not break his leg off. These badger
+holes, especially abandoned ones, go right down to a great depth, and
+the grass grows over them so that they are hardly visible. Dog holes
+always have a surrounding pile of earth carefully patted firm and trod
+on, no doubt to prevent entrance of rain flood-water; thus they are
+nearly always noticeable. Dog towns are sometimes of great extent, one
+in my pasture being two miles long and about a mile wide. They are
+generally far from water, many miles indeed, often on the highest and
+driest parts of the plain and where the depth to water may be 500 feet
+or more. They must therefore depend entirely on the juices of the green
+grass, though in dry seasons they cannot even have that refreshment; and
+they never scrape for roots. But even the small bunnies (called
+cotton-tails) are found in like places and must subsist absolutely
+without water, as they do not, or dare not, on account of wolves, etc.,
+get far away from their holes.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>No sooner was the M&mdash;&mdash; trouble well over than my Company saw fit to
+foreclose on two other cattle outfits, one of which bowed to the law at
+once. The other gave us, or rather me, a lot of unnecessary trouble, and
+I had again "to take chances" of personal injury. All these cattle were
+thrown on to the M&mdash;&mdash; range, and this increased the herd so much as to
+justify the running of our own wagon and outfit.</p>
+
+<p>Eastern New Mexico, the country over which our cattle ranged, was a huge
+strip of territory some 250 miles by 100 miles, no fences, no settlers,
+occupied only by big cattle outfits owning from 8000 to 75,000 cattle
+each. The range was, however, much too heavily stocked, the rains
+irregular, severe droughts frequent, and the annual losses yearly
+becoming heavier; so heavy in fact that owners only waited a slight
+improvement in prices to sell out or drive their cattle out of the
+country. The way the cattle were worked was thus. The spring round-up
+began in March, far down the river, and slowly worked north to our
+range. Our wagon, one of many more, would join the work some 110 miles
+south of our range, but I sent individual men to much greater distances.
+The work continued slowly through the range, branding the spring calves,
+and each outfit separating its own cattle and driving its own herd.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span>
+Twelve or more wagons meant some 300 riders and about 3000 saddle
+horses. So the operation was done on a grand scale; thousands of cattle
+were handled every day, and altogether such a big round-up was a very
+busy and interesting scene. Intricate and complicated work it was, too,
+though not perhaps apparent to an outsider; but under a good round-up
+boss, who was placed over the bosses of all the wagons, it was wonderful
+how smoothly the work went on. A general round-up took a long time and
+was no sooner over than another was begun at the far south border (the
+Mexico line) and the thing repeated. Our own cattle had got into the
+habit of drifting south whenever winter set in. It took us all summer to
+get them back again, and no sooner back than a cold sleet or rain would
+start them south. In fact, in winter few of our own cattle were at home,
+the cattle on our range being then mostly those drifted from the
+northern part of the territory. Such were the conditions in a "free
+range" country, and these conditions broke nearly all these big outfits,
+or at least compelled them to market their stuff for whatever it would
+bring. Partly on account of long-drawnout lawsuits we held on for seven
+or eight years, when on a recovery of prices our Company also closed out
+its live-stock interests.</p>
+
+<p>During the turning-over of these, the Com<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span>pany's cattle, to the
+purchasers, of course they had to be all branded, not with a recorded
+brand, but simply with a tally brand, thus <img src="images/img142.jpg" style="margin-bottom: -0.5em; margin-right: -0.5em;" alt="brand" title="" />, on the hip. Had there
+been a convenient separate pasture to put the tallied cattle into as
+they were tallied, much work would have been saved and no opportunity
+offered for fraud, such as will now be suggested and explained. The
+method adopted was to begin gathering at one end of the range, tally the
+herd collected, and then necessarily turn them loose. But we had bad
+stormy weather and these tallied cattle drifted and scattered all over
+the country and mixed up with those still not rounded up. This at once
+gave the opportunity for an evilly-inclined man to do just as was soon
+rumoured and reported to me. It was even positively asserted to me by
+certain cowmen (this was while I was confined in bed from an accident)
+that the buyer had a gang of men out operating on the far end of the
+range, catching and tally-branding for him the still untallied cattle. A
+simple operation enough, in such an immense district, where four men
+with their ropes could, in a few undisturbed days' work, cheat the
+Company out of enough cattle at $20 a head to be well worth some risk.
+Several men were positive in their assertions to me. But I knew these
+gentlemen pretty well&mdash;cattle-thieves themselves and utterly
+unprincipled; perhaps having a grudge<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span> against the said buyer, perhaps
+wanting merely to annoy me, and also possibly hating to see such a fine
+opportunity not taken advantage of. In the end, when brought to the
+scratch, not one of these informers would testify under oath. Whether
+afraid to, as they would undoubtedly have run strong chances of being
+killed, or whether they were just mischief-makers, as I myself have
+always believed, it is impossible to know accurately. The buyer, being a
+man of means and having many other interests in the district, would
+certainly hesitate long before he took such a very dangerous risk of
+discovery. All that can be said about it is that though I employed
+detectives for some time to try to get evidence bearing on the subject,
+no such evidence was ever obtained. The shortage in the turnover was due
+simply to the usual miscalculation of the herd; the herd which never
+before had been counted and could not, under range conditions, be
+counted.</p>
+
+<p>These were still "trailing" days, which means that steers sold or for
+sale were driven out of the country, not shipped by rail cars. One great
+trail passed right through our ranch (a great nuisance too), and by it
+herd after herd, each counting, maybe, 2500 cattle, was continually
+being trailed northwards, some going to Kansas or the Panhandle, most of
+them going as far<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span> north as Nebraska, Wyoming and Montana. These latter
+herds would be on the trail continuously for two or three months. Our
+own steers were always driven to the Panhandle of Texas, where, if not
+already contracted to buyers, they were held till sold.</p>
+
+<div class="center" style="padding-top: 2em; ">
+ <a name="img009" id="img009"></a>
+<img src="images/img009.jpg"
+    alt="HERD ON TRAIL. SHOWING LEAD STEER."
+    title="HERD ON TRAIL. SHOWING LEAD STEER." />
+</div>
+
+<h4>HERD ON TRAIL, SHOWING LEAD STEER.</h4>
+
+
+
+<p>A herd of breeding-stock when on the trail must be accompanied by one or
+more calf wagons, wagons with beds well boxed up, in which the youngest
+or new-born calves are carried, they being lifted out and turned over to
+their mother's care at night or during stoppages. In the old days, when
+such calves had no value, they were knocked on the head or carelessly
+and cruelly abandoned.</p>
+
+<p>It is a strange fact to note that when a herd is on the trail there is
+always a particular steer which, day after day and week after week,
+occupies a self-assigned position at the head of the herd, and is
+therefore called the "lead steer." I have often wondered what his
+thoughts might be, if any; why he so regularly placed himself at the
+head of affairs and was apparently so jealous of his commanding
+position. Yes, the lead steer is a mysterious creature, yet if displaced
+by death or some such cause, another long-legged, keen traveller will at
+once take his place. It should be explained that a herd on the trail
+travels naturally best in an extended form, two deep,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> seldom more than
+three or six, except towards the tail end, called the "drag": so that a
+herd of 2000 steers will form a much-attenuated line a mile in length
+from one end to the other.</p>
+
+<p>Which reminds me of an incident in this connection. I was moving a small
+lot of steers, some 400 head in all, to pasture in the Panhandle of
+Texas. The force consisted only of the wagon driver, one cowboy and
+myself. But the cowboy turned out to be quite ignorant of the art of
+driving cattle, did more harm than good, and so annoyed me that I
+dismissed him to the rear to ride in the wagon if he so chose, and
+myself alone undertook to drive, or rather not so much to drive, that
+being hardly necessary, as to guide the herd on its course. I got them
+strung out beautifully half a mile long, and they were making good time,
+when suddenly a confounded sheep herder and his dog met the lead steers
+and the procession was at once a scene of the most utter confusion. It
+should be explained here that, in the case of a small herd thus strung
+out, its guidance, if left to only one man, may be done from the rear by
+simply riding out sharply to one side or the other and calling to the
+lead cattle. How I did curse that wretch and his dog. A man on foot was
+bad enough; but a man on foot with a dog! Horrors! Yet, perhaps, barring
+the delay in getting the cattle started again, the incident had its<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span>
+uses, as it had just previously occurred to me that the line was getting
+a bit too long and might soon be out of control. Such are the uses of
+adversity.</p>
+
+<p>It can be understood that even a small herd of 400 lusty young steers
+can keep a man, or even two or three men, busy enough, especially if
+there are any cattle on the range you are passing through. In this case
+there were fortunately few.</p>
+
+<p>Amarillo, being the southern end of the Kansas railroad, was a great
+cattle market. Buyers and sellers met there; and there, immediately
+around the town, were congregated at any time in spring as many as
+40,000 cattle, all under herd. Amarillo was then the greatest cattle
+town in the world. She was the successor of such towns as Wichita and
+Fort Dodge, simply because she was at the western terminus of the
+railway. Though a pretty rowdy town her manners were an improvement on
+such places as Dodge, where in the height of her wickedness a gambling
+dispute, rivalry for the smile of a woman, or the slightest discourtesy,
+was sufficient ground for the shedding of blood.</p>
+
+<p>My life during these eight years had its pleasures and its troubles;
+certainly much discomfort and a lot of disagreeable work. During the
+working season, April to November, my time was mostly spent with the
+round-up or on the trail, with occasional visits to our head office in
+Las Vegas, and also to Amarillo on business<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span> matters. To cover these
+immense distances, near 300 miles (there were few or no desirable
+stopping-places), I used a light spring wagon or ambulance, holding my
+bedding, mess-box, grain for the team, some water, stake ropes, and a
+hundred other things. I nearly always camped out on the prairie, of
+course cooked my own meals, was out in all kinds of weather&mdash;sun, rain,
+heat and drought, blizzards and frightful lightning storms. My favourite
+team was a couple of grey ponies. From being so much together we got to
+understand each other pretty thoroughly, and we had our adventures as
+well. Once on going up a very steep hill the ponies lost their footing.
+The wagon backed and turned over, and ponies and wagon rolled over and
+over down the hill among the rocks till hung up on a cedar stump. I was
+not much hurt, but found the ponies half covered with stones and rocks
+that had rolled on to them, the wagon upside down and camping material
+scattered everywhere. Cutting the tugs and rolling the stones away the
+ponies jumped up miraculously little injured, and even the wagon still
+serviceable, but I had to walk a long way to get assistance. Then we
+have fallen through rotten bridges, stuck in rivers and quicksands, and
+all sorts of things.</p>
+
+<p>One pony of this team, "Punch," was really the hardiest, best-built,
+best-natured and most<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> intelligent of any I have ever known. Many a
+time, on long trips, has the other pony played completely out and
+actually dropped on the road. But Punch seemed to be never tired. He was
+a great pet too, and could be fondled to your heart's content. He had no
+vice, yet was as full of mischief as he could possibly pack. His
+mischief, or rather playfulness, finally cost him his life, as he once
+got to teasing a bull, the bull charged, and that was his end.</p>
+
+<p>It was with this team too that when driving in New Mexico through a
+district where white men were seldom seen, but on a road which I had
+often selected as a shorter route to my destination, I came on a Mexican
+ill-treating his donkey. His actions were so deliberate as to rouse my
+ire, and I got down, took the club from him and threatened castigation.
+On proceeding on the road I passed another Mexican mounted on a horse
+and carrying a rifle. Happening by-and-by to look back much was my
+surprise, or perhaps not very much, to see the gun and horse handed over
+to the first man, and himself mounted and galloping after me. Knowing at
+once what it meant, that his game was to bushwhack me in the rough ca&ntilde;on
+immediately in front, I put the whip to my team to such good purpose
+that we galloped through that ca&ntilde;on as it had never been galloped
+through<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span> before. I would have had no show whatever in such a place, and
+so was extremely glad to find myself again in the open country.</p>
+
+<p>Another time I hitched up another team, one of which, a favourite
+mustang-chaser, had never been driven. We made some ten miles all right
+till we came to the "jumping-off" place of the plains, a very steep,
+long and winding descent. Just as we started down, Prince, the horse
+mentioned, got his tail over the lines, and the ball began. We went down
+that hill at racing speed, I having absolutely no control over the
+terrified animals, which did not stop for many miles. Again, with the
+same team I once started to Amarillo, being half a day ahead of the
+steer herd. First evening I camped out at a water-hole and staked out
+Prince with a long heavy rope and strong iron stake pin. The other horse
+was hobbled with a rope hobble. Some wolves came in to water, and I was
+lying on my bed looking at them when the horses suddenly stampeded, the
+strong stake rope and pin not even checking Prince. They were gone and I
+was afoot! Prince ran for forty miles to the ranch. The hobbled horse we
+never saw again for more than twelve months, but when found was fat and
+none the worse. Next day the trail outfit came along and so I hitched up
+another team.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>But the worst trouble I used to have was with a high-strung and almost
+intractable pair of horses, Pintos, or painted, which means piebald, a
+very handsome team indeed, whose former owner simply could not manage
+them. Every time we came to a gate through which we had to pass I, being
+alone, had to get down and throw the gate open. Then after taking the
+team through I had of course to go back to shut the gate again. Then was
+the opportunity apparently always watched for by these devils, and had I
+not tied a long rope to the lines and trailed it behind the wagon they
+would many times have succeeded in getting away.</p>
+
+<p>Yet it is only such a team that one can really care to drive for
+pleasure; a team that you "feel" all the time, one that will keep you
+"interested" every minute, as these Pintos did. How often nowadays does
+one ever see a carriage pair, or fours in the park or elsewhere that
+really needs "driving"?</p>
+
+<p>"Shipping" cattle means loading them into railroad cars and despatching
+them to their destination. The cattle are first penned in a corral and
+then run through chutes into the cars. One year I sold the Company's
+steers, a train-load, to a Jew dealer in Kansas. They were loaded in the
+Panhandle and I went through with them, having a man to help me to look<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span>
+after them, our duty being to prod them up when any were found lying
+down so they would not be trodden to death. At a certain point our
+engine "played out" and was obliged to leave us to get coal and water.
+While gone the snow (a furious blizzard was blowing) blew over the track
+and blocked it so effectively that the engine could not get back. The
+temperature was about zero and the cattle suffered terribly; but there
+we remained stuck for nearly two days. When we finally got through, of
+course the buyer refused to receive them, and I turned them over to the
+railway company and brought suit for their value. The case was thrice
+tried and we won each time; and oh, how some of these railroad men did
+damn themselves by perjury! But it is bad business to "buck" against a
+powerful railway corporation. This will serve to give an idea as to what
+shipping cattle means. Many hundreds of thousands, or even millions, are
+now shipped every year. Trail work is abandoned, being no longer
+possible on account of fences, etc. Such great towns as Chicago and
+Kansas City will each receive and dispose of in one day as many as ten
+to twenty thousand cattle, not counting sheep or hogs.</p>
+
+<p>It was when returning to Amarillo after this trip that I was fortunate
+enough to save the lives of a whole train-load of people. One night<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> our
+passenger train came to a certain station, and the conductor went to get
+his orders. Nearly all the passengers were asleep. When he returned I
+happened to hear him read his orders over to the brakeman. These orders
+were to go on to a certain switch and "side track" till <i>three</i> cattle
+trains had passed. At that point there was a very heavy grade and cattle
+trains came down it at sixty miles an hour. Two trains swung past us,
+and to my surprise the conductor then gave the signal to go ahead. We
+did start, when I at once ventured to remark to him that only two trains
+had so far gone by. He pooh-poohed my assertion; but after a few minutes
+began to think that he himself might just possibly be wrong. Meantime I
+got out on the platform and was ready to jump. The conductor most
+fortunately reversed the order, and the train was backed on to the
+siding again, none too soon, for just then the head-light of the third
+cattle train appeared round a curve and came tearing past us. It was a
+desperately narrow escape and I did not sleep again that night. Writing
+afterwards to the general manager of the railway company about it my
+letter was not even acknowledged, and of course no thanks were received.</p>
+
+<p>While on the subject of railroad accidents it has been my misfortune to
+have been in many of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> them, caused by collisions, spreading of rails,
+open switches, etc., etc., but I will only detail one or two. Once when
+travelling to Amarillo from a Convention at Fort Worth the train was
+very crowded and I occupied an upper berth in the Pullman. As American
+trains are always doing, trying to make up lost time, we were going at a
+pretty good lick when I felt the coach begin to sway. It swayed twice
+and then turned completely over and rolled down a high embankment.
+Outside was pitch dark and raining. There was a babel of yells and
+screams and callings for help. I had practically no clothes on, no
+shoes, and of course could find nothing. Everything inside, mattresses,
+bedding, curtains, baggage, clothing, babies, women and men were mixed
+up in an extraordinary way. Above me I noticed a broken window, through
+which I managed to scramble, and on finding out how things were returned
+to the coach to help other passengers. Underneath me seemed to be a
+dying man. He was in a dreadful condition and at his last gasp, etc.,
+and he made more row than the rest put together. Reaching down and
+removing mattresses, he grasped my hand, jumped up and thanked me
+profusely for <i>saving</i> his life. He was not hurt a bit, indeed was the
+only man in the lot who escaped serious injury. The men behaved much
+worse than the women. However<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> we soon had everybody out and the injured
+laid on blankets. Meantime a relief train had arrived with the doctor,
+etc. He examined us all, asked me if I was all right, to which I replied
+that I was, as I really felt so at the time. But in half an hour I was
+myself lying on a stretcher and unable to move, with a sprained back and
+bruised side, etc., and a claim for damages against the railway company.</p>
+
+<p>Another time, when riding in the caboose (the rear car) of a long
+freight train, with the conductor and brakeman, the train in going down
+a grade broke in three. The engine and a few cars went right on and left
+us; the centre part rushed down the hill, our section followed and
+crashed into it, and some seven or eight cars were completely
+telescoped. I had been seated beside the stove, my arm stretched round
+it, when, noticing our great speed, I drew the conductor's attention to
+it. He opened the side door to look out. Just then the shock came and he
+got a frightful lick on the side of the head, and myself was thrown on
+top of the hot stove; but none of us were seriously hurt.</p>
+
+<p>Again, once when making a trip to Kansas City and back, the whole
+Pullman train went off the track and down the embankment; and on the
+return journey we ran into an open switch<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span> and were derailed and one man
+killed. Both might have been very serious affairs.</p>
+
+<p>With the closing out of the Mortgage Company's interests of course my
+salaried employment came to an end. But before closing this chapter it
+should be mentioned that I had in the meantime suffered a nasty accident
+by a pony falling back on me and fracturing one leg. It occurred at the
+round-up, and I was driven some thirty miles, the leg not even splinted
+or put in a box, to my ranch. I sent off a mounted man to Las Vegas, 130
+miles, for a surgeon, but it was a week before he got down to me and the
+leg was then in a pretty bad shape. He hinted at removing it, but
+finally decided to set it and put it in plaster, which he did. He then
+left me. The leg gave me little trouble, but unfortunately peritonitis
+set in. The agony then suffered will not soon be forgotten. There was a
+particularly ignorant woman, my foreman's wife, in the house; but I had
+practically no nursing, no medicine of any kind, and the diet was hardly
+suited for a patient. The pain became so great that I was not able to
+open my mouth, dared not move a muscle, and was reduced to a mere
+skeleton. Then it occurred to my "guardians" to send once more for the
+doctor. Another week went by, and when he came I had just succeeded in
+passing the critical stage and was on the mend.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span> In after years this
+attack led to serious complications and a most interesting operation,
+which left me, in my doctor's words, "practically without a stomach";
+and without a stomach I have jogged on comfortably for nearly ten years.
+How a little thing may lead to serious consequences! I had previously,
+and have since, had more or less serious physical troubles, but a good
+sound constitution has always pulled me through safely. Among minor
+injuries may be mentioned a broken rib, a knee-cap damaged at polo, and
+another slightly-fractured leg, caused again by a pony just purchased,
+and being tried, falling back on me; not to mention the <i>sigillum
+diavoli</i> (don't be alarmed or shocked) which occasionally develops, and
+always at the same spot.</p>
+
+<p>While the round-up and turnover of the Company's cattle was proceeding,
+I thought it well to keep lots of whisky on hand to show hospitality
+(the only way) to whomsoever it was due. On receiving a large keg of it
+I put it in my buggy and drove out of camp seven or eight miles to some
+rough ground, and having, in Baden-Powell way, made myself sure no one
+was in view and no one spying on my movements I placed it amongst some
+rocks and brush in such a way that no ordinary wanderer could possibly
+see it. From this store it was my intention to fill a bottle every other
+day and so<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> always have a stock on hand. But Kronje or De Wett was too
+"slim" for me; a few days afterwards on my going there, like a thief in
+the night&mdash;and indeed it was at night&mdash;I found the keg gone. Someone
+must have loaded up on it, someone who had deliberately watched me, and
+his joy can be easily pictured. So someone was greatly comforted, but
+not a hint ever came to me as to who the culprit was.</p>
+
+<p>My intercourse with M&mdash;&mdash; provided some of the closest "calls" I ever
+had (a call means a position of danger); still not so close as on a
+certain occasion, at my summer camp in Arizona, when one of the men and
+myself were playing cards together. We were alone. The man was our best
+"hand," and a capital fellow, though a fugitive from justice, like some
+of the others. It became apparent to me that he was cheating, and I was
+rash enough to let him understand that I knew it, without however
+absolutely accusing him of it. At once he pulled out his gun, leant
+over, and pointed it at me. What can one do in such a case? He had the
+"drop" on me; and demanded that I should take back what I had said.
+Well, I wriggled out of it somehow, told him he was very foolish to make
+such a "break" as that, and talked to him till he cooled down. It was an
+anxious few minutes, and I am very proud to think he did not "phase" me
+very much,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span> as he afterwards admitted. Peace was secured with honour.</p>
+
+<p>I was lucky to be able to leave the West and the cattle business with a
+hide free from perforations and punctures of any kind.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI</h2>
+
+<h3>ODDS AND ENDS</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Summer Round-up Notes&mdash;Night Guarding&mdash;Stampedes&mdash;Bronco
+Busting&mdash;Cattle Branding, etc.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>Round-up and trail work had many agreeable aspects, and though it was at
+times very hard work, still I look back to it all with fond memories.
+The hours were long&mdash;breakfast was already cooked and "chuck" called
+long before sunrise; horses were changed, the night horses turned loose
+and a fresh mount for the morning's work caught out of the ramuda. By
+the time breakfast was over it was generally just light enough to see
+dimly the features of the country. The boss then gave his orders to the
+riders as to where to go and what country to round-up, also the round-up
+place at noon. He started the day-herd off grazing towards the same
+place, and finally saw the wagon with its four mules loaded up and
+despatched. There was generally a "circus" every morning on the men
+starting out to their work. On a cold morning a cow-horse does not like
+to be very tightly cinched or girthed up. He resents it by at once
+beginning to buck furiously as soon as his rider gets into his saddle.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="center" style="padding-top: 2em; ">
+ <a name="img010" id="img010"></a>
+<img src="images/img010.jpg"
+    alt="CHANGING HORSES."
+    title="CHANGING HORSES." />
+</div>
+
+<h4>CHANGING HORSES.</h4>
+
+
+<p>Even staid old horses will do it on a very cold morning. But the "young
+uns," the broncos, are then perfect fiends. Thus there is nearly always
+some sport to begin the day with. By noon the round-up has been
+completed and a large herd of cattle collected. Separating begins at
+once, first cows and calves, then steers and "dry" cattle, the property
+of the different owners represented. Dinner is ready by twelve, horses
+changed again and the day-herd is watered, and then the branding of the
+calves begins. But wait. <i>Such</i> a dinner! With few appliances it is
+really wonderful how a mess-wagon cook feeds the crowd so well. His fuel
+is "chips" (<i>bois des vaches</i>); with a spade he excavates a sunken
+fireplace, and over this erects an iron rod on which to hang pots, etc.
+He will make the loveliest fresh bread and rolls at least once a day,
+often twice; make most excellent coffee (and what a huge coffee-pot is
+needed for twenty or thirty thirsty cowpunchers), serve potatoes, stewed
+or fried meat, baked beans and stewed dried fruit, etc. Everything was
+good, so cleanly served and served so quickly. True, any kind of a mess
+tastes well to the hungry man, but I think that even a dyspeptic's
+appetite would become keen when he approached the cattleman's chuck
+wagon. Dinner over the wagon is again loaded up, the twenty or more beds
+thrown in,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span> the team hitched and started for the night camping-ground,
+some place where there is lots of good grass for the cattle and saddle
+horses, and at the same time far enough away from all the other herds.
+The saddle horses in charge of the horse "wrangler" accompany the wagon.
+The men are either grazing and drifting the day-herd towards the camp,
+or branding morning calves, not in a corral but on the open prairie. The
+calves, and probably some grown cattle to be branded, must be caught
+with the rope, and here is where the roper's skill is shown to most
+advantage. At sundown all the men have got together again, night horses
+are selected, supper disposed of, beds prepared and a quiet smoke
+enjoyed.</p>
+
+<p>If a horse-hair rope be laid on the ground around one's bed no snake
+will ever cross it. But during work the beds are seldom made down till
+after sunset, by which time rattlesnakes have all retired into holes or
+amongst brush, and so there is little danger from them.</p>
+
+<p>First "guard" goes out to take charge of the herd. The herd has already
+been "bedded" down carefully at convenient distance from the wagon.
+Bedding down means bunching them together very closely, just leaving
+them enough room to lie down comfortably. They, if they have been well
+grazed and watered, will soon all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span> be lying resting, chewing their cuds
+and at peace with the world. Each night-guard consists of two to four
+men according to the size of the herd, and "stands" two to four hours.
+The horse herd is also guarded by "reliefs." In fine weather it is no
+great hardship to be called out at any hour of the night, but if it
+should be late in autumn and snow falling, or, what is worse still, if
+there be a cold rain and a bitter wind it is very trying to be compelled
+to leave your warm bed at twelve or three in the morning, get on to your
+poor shivering horse and stand guard for three hours.</p>
+
+<p>It should be explained that "standing" means not absolute inaction but
+slowly riding round and round the herd. Yes, it is trying, especially in
+bad weather and after working hard all day long from before sun-up. How
+well one gets to know the stars and their positions! The poor
+night-herders know that a certain star will set or be in such and such a
+position at the time for the next relief. Often when dead tired, sleepy
+and cold, how eagerly have I watched my own star's apparently very slow
+movement. The standard watch is at the wagon, and must not be "monkeyed"
+with, a trick sometimes played on tenderfeet. Immediately time for
+relief is up the next is called, and woe betide them if they delay
+complying with the summons. Of course<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> the owner or manager does not
+have to take part in night-herding, but the boys think more of him if he
+does, and certainly the man he relieves appreciates it.</p>
+
+<p>In continued wet and cold weather such as we were liable to have late in
+October or November, when it might rain and drizzle for a week or two at
+a time, our beds would get very wet and there would be no sun to dry
+them.</p>
+
+<p>Consequently we practically slept in wet, not damp, blankets for days at
+a time; and to return from your guard about two in the morning and get
+into such an uninviting couch was trying to one's temper, of course.
+Even one's "goose haar piller," as the boys called their feather pillow,
+might be sodden. To make your bed in snow or be snowed over is not
+nearly so bad.</p>
+
+<p>No tents were ever seen on the round-up. Everyone slept on the open bare
+ground. But for use during my long drives across country I got to using
+a small Sibley tent, nine feet by nine feet, which had a canvas floor
+attached to the walls, and could be closed up at night so as to
+effectually prevent the entrance of skunks and other vermin. This tent
+had no centre pole whatever. You simply drove in the four corner
+stake-pins, raised the two light rods over it triangularwise, and by a
+pulley and rope hoist up the peak. The two rods were very thin,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span> light
+and jointed; and in taking the tent down you simply loosed the rope,
+knocked out the stake-pins, and that was all.</p>
+
+<p>During these long guarding spells you practically just sit in your
+saddle for four hours at a stretch. You cannot take exercise and you
+dare not get down to walk or you will stampede the cattle. But, yes, you
+may gallop to camp if you know the direction, and drink a cup of hot
+strong coffee, which in bad weather is kept on the fire all night,
+re-light your pipe and return to "sing" to the cattle.</p>
+
+<p>Then the quiet of these huge animals is impressive. About midnight they
+will get a bit restless, many will get on their feet, have a stretch and
+a yawn, puff, cough and blow and in other ways relieve themselves, and
+if allowed will start out grazing; but they are easily driven back and
+will soon be once more resting quietly.</p>
+
+<p>The stampeding of the herd on such a night is almost a relief. It at
+once effectually wakes you up, gets you warm, and keeps you interested
+for the rest of your spell, even if it does not keep you out for the
+rest of the night.</p>
+
+<p>I should explain that "singing" to the cattle refers to the habit
+cowboys have, while on night-guard, of singing (generally a sing-song
+refrain) as they slowly ride round the herd. It relieves the monotony,
+keeps the cattle quiet and seems<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span> to give them confidence, for they
+certainly appear to rest quieter while they know that men are guarding
+them, and are not so liable to stampede.</p>
+
+<p>Stampeding is indeed a very remarkable bovine characteristic. Suppose a
+herd of cattle, say 2000 steers, to be quietly and peacefully lying down
+under night-guard. The air is calm and clear. It may be bright
+moonlight, or it may be quite dark; nothing else is moving. Apparently
+there is nothing whatever to frighten them or even disturb them; most of
+them are probably sound asleep, when suddenly like a shot they, the
+whole herd, are on their feet and gone&mdash;gone off at a more or less
+furious gallop. All go together. The guard are of course at once all
+action; the men asleep in camp are waked by the loud drumming of the
+thousands of hoofs on the hard ground and at once rush for their horses
+to assist. The stampede must be stopped and there is only one way to do
+it&mdash;to get up to the lead animals and try to swing them round with the
+object of getting them to move in a circle, to "mill" as we called it.
+But the poor beasts meantime are frantic with fear and excitement and
+you must ride hard at your level best, and look out you don't get
+knocked over and perhaps fatally trampled on. You must know your
+business and work on one plan with your fellow-herders. On a pitch dark
+night in a rough country it is very dangerous indeed. The cattle<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> may
+run only a short distance or they may run ten miles, and after being
+quieted again may once more stampede. Indeed, I took a herd once to
+Amarillo and they stampeded the first night on the trail and kept it up
+pretty near every night during the drive. But, as said before, the
+remarkable part of the performance is the instantaneous nature of the
+shock or whatever it is that goes through the slumbering herd, and the
+quickness of their getting off the bed-ground. Cow and calf herds are
+not so liable to stampede, but horses are distinctly bad and will run
+for miles at terrific speed. Then you must just try and stay with them
+and bring them back when they stop, as you can hardly expect to outrun
+them. Still, I do not think that stampeded horses are quite so crazy as
+cattle, and they get over their fright quicker.</p>
+
+<p>Let me try to illustrate a little better an actual stampede. The night
+was calm, clear, but very dark&mdash;no moon, and the stars dimmed by fleecy
+cloud strata. The herd of some 2000 steers was bedded down, and had so
+far given no trouble. Supper was over and the first guard on duty, the
+rest of the men lying on their beds chatting and smoking. Each man while
+not on duty has his saddled horse staked close by. Soon everyone has
+turned in for the night. A couple of hours later the first guard come
+in, their spell being over, and the second relief takes their place.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span>
+The cattle are quiet; not a sound breaks the silence except the low
+crooning of some of the boys on duty. But suddenly, what is that
+noise?&mdash;like the distant rumbling of guns on the march, or of a heavy
+train crossing a wooden bridge! To one with his head on the ground the
+earth seems almost to tremble. Oh, we know it well! It is the beating of
+8000 hoofs on the hard ground. The cowboy recognizes the dreaded sound
+instantly: it wakens him quicker than anything else. The boss is already
+in his saddle, has summoned the other men, and is off at full gallop.
+The cook gets up, re-trims his lamp, and hangs it as high on the wagon
+top as he can, to be visible as far as possible. It is good two miles
+before we catch up on the stampeded herd, still going at a mad gallop.
+The men are on flank trying to swing them round. But someone seems to be
+in front, as we soon can hear pistol-shots fired in a desperate
+endeavour to stop the lead steers. But even that is no avail, and indeed
+is liable to split the herd in two and so double the work. So the
+thundering race continues, and it is only after many miles have been
+covered that the cattle have run themselves out and we finally get them
+quietened down and turned homewards. Someone is sent out scouting round
+to try to get a view of the cook's lantern and so know our whereabouts.
+But have we got<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span> all the cattle? The men are questioned. Where's Pete?
+and where's Red? There must be cattle gone and these two men are staying
+with them. Well, we'll take the herd on anyway, bed them down again, get
+fresh horses, and then hunt up the missing bunch. So, the cattle once
+more "bedded," and every spare hand left with them, as they are liable
+to run again, two of us start out to find if possible the missing men.
+We first take a careful note of the position of any stars that may be
+visible, then start out at an easy lope or canter. It is so dark that it
+seems a hopeless task to find them. Good luck alone may guide us right;
+and good luck serves us well, for after having come some eight or nine
+miles we hear a man "hollering" to us. He had heard our horses' tread,
+and was no doubt mightily relieved at our coming, as of course he was
+completely lost in the darkness and had wisely not made any attempt to
+find his way. But there he was, good fellow, Red! with his little bunch
+of 200 steers. Yes, the herd had split, that's how it was. But where is
+Pete? Oh! he doesn't know; last saw him heading the stampede; never saw
+him since. Can he be lost and still wandering round? That is not likely,
+and we begin to suspect trouble. The small herd is directed campwards,
+and some of us again scout round, halloing and shouting, but keeping our
+eyes well<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span> "skinned" for anything on the ground. At last, by the merest
+chance, we come on something; no doubt what it is&mdash;the body of a man.
+"Hallo, Pete! What's the matter?" He stirs. "Are you badly hurt?"
+"Dog-gone it, fellows, glad to see you! My horse fell and some cattle
+ran over me. No! I ain't badly hurt; but I guess you'll have to carry me
+home." The poor fellow had several ribs broken, was dreadfully bruised,
+and his left cheek was nearly sliced off. There we had to leave him till
+morning, one of us staying by. Happily Pete got all right again.</p>
+
+<p>Breaking young colts was a somewhat crude process. Not being of the same
+value as better bred stock they were rather roughly treated. If you have
+a number to break you will hire a professional "bronco-buster"; for some
+five dollars a head he will turn them back to you in a remarkably short
+time, bridle-wise, accustomed to the saddle and fairly gentle. But he
+does not guarantee against pitching. Some colts never pitch at all
+during the process, do not seem to know how; but the majority do know,
+and know well! The colt is roped in a corral by the forefeet, jerked
+down, and his head held till bridled; or he is roped round the neck,
+snubbed to a post and so held till he chokes himself by straining on the
+running loop. As soon as he falls a man jumps on to his head and holds
+it firmly in such a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> way that he cannot get up, and someone slips on the
+Hackamore bridle. Thus you will see that a horse lying on its side
+requires his muzzle as a lever to get him on his feet. Then he is
+allowed to rise and to find, though he may not then realize it, that his
+wild freedom is gone from him for ever. He is trembling with fright and
+excitement, and sweating from every pore. To get the saddle on him he is
+next blindfolded. A strong man grasps the left ear and another man
+slowly approaches and, after quietly and kindly rubbing and patting him,
+gently puts the saddle blanket in place; then the huge and heavy saddle
+with all its loose strings and straps is carefully hoisted and adjusted,
+and the cinch drawn up. In placing the blanket and the saddle there will
+likely be several failures. He will be a poor-spirited horse that does
+not resent it. Now take off the blinders and let him pitch till he is
+tired. Then comes the mounting. He is blinded again, again seized by the
+ear, the cinch pulled very tight, and the rider mounts into the saddle.
+It may be best first to lead him outside the corral, so that he can run
+right off with his man if he wants to. But he won't run far, as he soon
+exhausts himself in his rage and with his tremendous efforts to dismount
+his rider. A real bad one will squeal like a pig, fall back, roll over,
+kick and apparently tie himself into knots. If mastered the first time
+it is a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span> great advantage gained. But should he throw his rider once,
+twice or several times he never forgets that the thing is at least
+possible, and so he may repeat his capers for a long time to come. All
+cow-horses have ever afterwards a holy dread of the rope, never
+forgetting its power and effect experienced during the breaking process.
+Thus, in roping a broken horse on the open or in a corral, if your rope
+simply lies <i>over</i> his neck, and yet not be round it, he will probably
+stop running and resign himself to capture. Even the commonly-used
+single rope corral, held up by men at the corners, they will not try to
+break through. Bronco-busters only last a few years, the hard jarring
+affects their lungs and other organs so disastrously.</p>
+
+<p>One of our men, with the kindest consideration, much appreciated,
+confidentially showed me a simple method of tying up a bronco's head
+with a piece of thin rope, adjusted in a particular way, which made
+pitching or bucking almost, but not always, an impossibility. He was
+perhaps a little shamefaced in doing so, but such sensibility was not
+for me; anything to save one from the horrible shaking up and jarring of
+a pitching horse! And yet there was always the inclination to fix the
+string surreptitiously. Much better that the boys should <i>not</i> see it.</p>
+
+<div class="center" style="padding-top: 2em; ">
+ <a name="img011" id="img011"></a>
+<img src="images/img011.jpg"
+    alt="A REAL BAD ONE."
+    title="A REAL BAD ONE." />
+</div>
+
+<h4>A REAL BAD ONE.</h4>
+
+
+<p>It may be said here that a horse has a lightning<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span> knowledge as to
+whether his rider be afraid of him or not, and acts accordingly. In
+branding my method was to simply tie up one forefoot and blindfold the
+colt, when a small and properly-hot stamp-iron can be quickly and
+effectively applied before he quite knows what is hurting him.</p>
+
+<p>In early days we used only Spanish Mexican broncos for cow-ponies. They
+were broken bridle-wise, and perhaps had been ridden a few times. Bands
+of them were driven north to our country, and for about fifteen dollars
+apiece you might make a selection of the number wanted, say twenty to
+fifty head. Some of these ponies would turn out very well, some of
+little use. You took your chances, and in distributing them amongst the
+men very critical eyes were cast over them, you may be sure, as the boys
+had to ride them no matter what their natures might turn out to be. Such
+ponies were hardy, intelligent, active, and stood a tremendous amount of
+work. Later a larger stamp of cow-horse came into use, even horses with
+perhaps a distant and minute drop of Diomede's blood in them&mdash;Diomede,
+who won the first Derby stakes, run for in the Isle of Man by the way,
+and who was sold to America to become the father of United States
+thoroughbreds and progenitor of the great Lexington. But such "improved"
+horses<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span> could never do the cow work so well as the old original Spanish
+cayuse.</p>
+
+<p>In a properly-organized cattle country all cattle brands must be
+recorded at the County seat. Because of the prodigious number and
+variety of brands of almost every conceivable pattern and device it is
+difficult to adopt a quite new and safe one that does not conflict in
+some way with others. This for the honest man; the crooked man, the
+thief, the brand-burner is not so troubled. <i>He</i> will select a brand
+such as others already in use may be easily changed into. To give a very
+few instances. If his own brand be 96 and another's 91 the conversion is
+easy. If it be <img src="images/img176a.jpg" style="margin-bottom: -0.5em; margin-right: -0.5em;" alt="brand" title="" /> and another's <img src="images/img176b.jpg" style="margin-bottom: 0em; margin-right: 0.2em;" alt="brand" title="" /> it is equally easy; or if it
+be <img src="images/img176c.jpg" style="margin-bottom: -0.2em; margin-right: -0.5em;" alt="brand" title="" />, as was one of our own brands, the conversion of it into
+<img src="images/img176d.jpg" style="margin-bottom: -0.2em; margin-right: 0.5em;" alt="brand" title="" /> is too temptingly simple. It was only after much consideration
+that I adopted for my own personal brand <img src="images/img176e.jpg" style="margin-bottom: -0.5em; margin-right: -0.5em;" alt="brand" title="" />&mdash;a mule shoe on the left
+hip and jaw. It was small and did not damage the hide too much, was
+easily stamped on, looked well and was pretty safe. Among brands I have
+seen was <big><b>HELL</b></big> in large letters covering the animal's whole side.</p>
+
+<p>With a band of horses a bell-mare (madrina) is sometimes used. The mare
+is gentle, helps to keep the lot together, and the bell lets you know on
+a dark night where they are. With<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span> a lot of mules a madrina is always
+used, as her charges will never leave her.</p>
+
+<p>All the grooming cow-ponies get is self-administered. After a long ride,
+on pulling the saddle off, the pony is turned loose, when he at once
+proceeds to roll himself from one side to another, finishing up with a
+"shake" before he goes off grazing. If he has been overridden he may not
+succeed in rolling completely over. This is regarded as a sure sign that
+he has been overridden, and you know that he will take some days, or
+even maybe weeks, to recover from it. I have seen horses brought in
+absolutely staggering and trembling and so turned loose. A favourite
+mount is seldom so mistreated; and if the boss is present the rider
+knows he will take a note of it. One can imagine how delightful and
+refreshing this roll and shake must be, quite as refreshing as a cold
+bath (would be) to the tired and perspiring rider. Alas! cold or hot
+baths are not obtainable by the cattleman for possibly months at a time.
+The face and hands alone can receive attention. The new and modern idea
+of bodily self-cleansing is here effectually put in force and apparently
+with good health results. The rivers when in flood are extremely muddy;
+when not they are very shallow, and the water is usually alkaline and
+undrinkable, as well as quite useless for bathing purposes.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Cow-ponies generally have sound feet and durable hoofs, but in very
+sandy countries the hoofs will spread out in a most astonishing way and
+need constant trimming.</p>
+
+<p>In droughty countries like Arizona and New Mexico we were frequently
+reduced to serious straits to find decent drinking-water. On many
+occasions I have drunk, and drunk with relief and satisfaction, such
+filthy, slimy, greenish-looking stuff as would disgust a frog and give
+the <i>Lancet</i> a fit, though that discriminating journal would probably
+call it soup. Sometimes even water, and I well remember the places, that
+was absolutely a struggling mass of small red creatures that yet really
+tasted not at all badly. Anyway it was better than the green slime.
+Thirst is a sensation that must be satisfied at any cost. Once when
+travelling in the South Arizona country, we being all strung out in
+Indian file, over a dozen of us, the lead man came on a most
+enticing-looking pool of pure water. Of course he at once jumped off,
+took a hearty draught, spat it out and probably made a face, but saying
+nothing rode quietly on. The next man did the same, and so it went on
+till our predecessors had each and all the satisfaction of knowing that
+he was not the only man fooled. The water was so hot, though showing no
+sign of it, that it was quite undrinkable&mdash;a very hot spring.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In the alkali district on the Pecos River the dust raised at a round-up
+is so dense that the herd cannot even be seen at 200 yards distance.
+This dust is most irritating to the eyes; and many of the men, including
+myself, were sometimes so badly affected that they had to stop work for
+weeks at a time.</p>
+
+<p>In circuses and Wild-West shows one frequently sees cowgirls on the
+bill. Of course, on actual work on the range there is no such thing as a
+cowgirl. At least I never saw one.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII</h2>
+
+<h3>ON MY OWN RANCH</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Locating&mdash;Plans&mdash;Prairie Fires and
+Guards&mdash;Bulls&mdash;Trading&mdash;Successful Methods&mdash;Loco-weed&mdash;Sale of
+Ranch.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>A year before selling out the Company's cattle I had started a small
+ranch for myself. Seeing that it was quite hopeless to run cattle
+profitably on the open-range system, and having longing eyes on a
+certain part of the plains which was covered with very fine grass and
+already fenced on one side by the Texas line&mdash;knowing also quite well
+that fencing of public land in New Mexico was strictly against the law
+(land in the territories is the property of the Federal Government,
+which will neither lease it nor sell it, but holds it for
+home-steading)&mdash;I yet went to work, bought a lot of wire and posts, gave
+a contract to a fence-builder and boldly ran a line over thirty miles
+long enclosing something like 100,000 acres. The location was part of
+the country where our stock horses used to run with the mustangs, and so
+I knew every foot of it pretty well. There was practically no limit to
+the acreage I might have enclosed; and I had then the choice of all
+sorts of country&mdash;country<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> with lots of natural shelter for cattle, and
+even country where water in abundance could be got close to the surface.
+In my selected territory I knew quite well that it was very deep to
+water and that it would cost a lot of money in the shape of deep wells
+and powerful windmills to get it out; yet it was for this very reason
+that I so selected it. Would not the country in a few years swarm with
+settlers ("nesters" as we called small farmers), and would they not of
+course first select the land where water was shallow? They could not
+afford to put in expensive wells and windmills. Thus I argued, and thus
+it turned out exactly as anticipated. The rest of the country became
+settled up by these nesters, but I was left alone for some eight years
+absolutely undisturbed and in complete control of this considerable
+block of land. More than that the County Assessor and collector actually
+missed me for two years, not even knowing of my existence; and for the
+whole period of eight years I never paid one cent for rent. On my
+windmill locations I put "Scrip" in blocks of forty acres. Otherwise I
+owned or rented not a foot.</p>
+
+<p>Just a line or two here. I happen to have known the man who invented
+barbed wire and who had his abundant reward. Blessings on him! though
+one is sometimes inclined to add curs<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span>ings too. It is dangerous stuff to
+handle. Heavy gloves should always be worn. The flesh is so torn by the
+ragged barb that the wound is most irritating and hard to heal. When my
+fence was first erected it was a common thing to find antelope hung up
+in it, tangled in it, and cut to pieces. Once we found a mustang horse
+with its head practically cut completely off. The poor brutes had a hard
+experience in learning the nature of this strange, almost invisible,
+death-trap stretched across what was before their own free, open and
+boundless territory. And what frightful wounds some of the ponies would
+occasionally suffer by perhaps trying to jump over such a fence or even
+force their way through it; ponies from the far south, equally ignorant
+with the antelope of the dangers of the innocent-looking slender wire.
+In another way these fences were sometimes the cause of loss of beast
+life, as for instance when some of my cattle drifted against the fence
+during a thunder and rain storm and a dozen of them were killed by one
+stroke of lightning.</p>
+
+<p>Into this preserve my cattle-breeding stock were put: very few in number
+to begin with, yet as many as my means afforded. My Company job and
+salary would soon be a thing of the past and my future must depend
+entirely on the success of this undertaking. Once before I had boldly,
+perhaps rashly, taken a lease of a celebrated steer<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span> pasture in Carson
+County, Texas, and gone to Europe to try and float a company, the
+proposition being to use the pasture, then, and still, the very best in
+Texas, for wintering yearling steers. No sounder proposition or more
+promising one could have been put forward. But all my efforts to get the
+capital needed failed and it was fortunate for me that at the end of one
+year I succeeded in getting a cancellation of the lease. On first
+securing the lease the season was well advanced and it became an anxiety
+to me as to where I should get cattle to put in the pasture, if only
+enough to pay the year's rent&mdash;some 7000 dollars. One man, a canny
+Scotsman, had been holding and grazing a large herd of 4000 two-year-old
+steers, all in one straight brand, on the free range just outside. He
+knew I wanted cattle and I knew he wanted grass, as he could not find a
+buyer and the season was late. We both played "coon," but I must say I
+began to feel a bit uncomfortable. At last greatly to my relief and joy,
+he approached me, and after a few minutes' dickering I had the
+satisfaction of counting into pasture this immense herd of 4000 cattle.
+Meantime, I had also been corresponding with another party and very soon
+afterwards closed a deal with him for some 3700 more two-year-old
+steers. Thus with 7700 head the pasture was nearly fully stocked, the
+rent for the first year<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> was assured, and I prepared to go to the Old
+Country to form the company before mentioned. But before going I found
+it necessary to throw in a hundred or so old cows to keep the steers
+quiet. The steers had persisted in walking the fences, travelling in
+great strings round and round the pasture. They had lots of grass, water
+and salt, but something else was evidently lacking. Immediately the cows
+were turned loose all the uneasiness and dissatisfaction ceased. No more
+fence walking and no more danger (for me) of them breaking out. The
+family life seemed complete. The suddenness of the effect was very
+remarkable. This pasture has ever since been used solely for my proposed
+purpose and every year has been a tremendous success.</p>
+
+<p>First of all a word about my house and home. Built on what may be called
+the Spanish plan, of adobes (sun-dried bricks), the walls were 2&frac12;
+feet thick, and there was a courtyard in the centre. Particular
+attention was paid to the roof, which was first boarded over, then on
+the boards three inches of mud, and over that sheets of corrugated iron.
+The whole idea of the adobes and the mud being to secure a cool
+temperature in summer and warmth in winter. No other materials are so
+effective.</p>
+
+<p>As explained before, there were no trees or shrubs of any kind within a
+radius of many miles.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> So to adorn this country seat I cut and threw
+into my buggy one day a young shoot of cotton-wood tree, hauled it
+fifty miles to the ranch, and stuck it in the centre of the court. Water
+was never too plentiful; so why not make use of the soap-suddy washings
+which the boys and all of us habitually threw out there? When the tree
+did grow up, and it thrived amazingly, its shade became the recognized
+lounging-place. With a few flowering shrubs added the patio assumed
+quite a pretty aspect. Another feature of the house was that the
+foundations were laid so deep, and of rock, that skunks could not burrow
+underneath, which is quite a consideration. Under my winter cottage at
+the Meadows Ranch in Arizona skunks always denned and lay up during the
+cold weather, selecting a point immediately under the warm hearthstone.
+There, as one sat reading over the fire, these delightful animals,
+within a foot of you, would carry on their family wrangles and in their
+excitement give evidence of their own nature; but happily the offence
+was generally a very mild one and evidently not maliciously intended.</p>
+
+<p>Around the house was planted a small orchard and attempts were made at
+vegetable-growing. But water was too scarce to do the plants justice.
+Everything must be sacrificed to the cattle. One lesson it taught me,
+however, and that is that no<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span> matter how much water you irrigate with,
+one good downpour from Nature's fertilizing watering-can is worth more
+than weeks of irrigation. Rain water has a quality of its own which well
+or tank water cannot supply. Plants respond to it at once by adopting a
+cheery, healthy aspect. It had another equally valuable character in
+that it destroyed the overwhelming bugs. How it destroyed them I don't
+know: perhaps it drowned them; anyway they disappeared at once.</p>
+
+<p>In my own pasture in New Mexico I for various reasons decided to
+"breed," instead of simply handle steers. Steers were certainly safer
+and surer, and the life was an easy one. But there appeared to me
+greater possibilities in breeding if the cows were handled right and
+taken proper care of. It will be seen by-and-by that my anticipations
+were more than justified, so that the success of this little ranch has
+been a source of pride to me.</p>
+
+<p>The ranch was called "Running Water," because situated on Running Water
+Draw, a creek that never to my knowledge "ran" except after a very heavy
+rain. Prairie fires were the greatest danger in this level range
+country, there being no rivers, ca&ntilde;ons, or even roads to check their
+advance. Lightning might set the grass afire; a match carelessly dropped
+by the cigarette-smoker; a camp fire not properly put out; or any<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span>
+mischievously-inclined individual might set the whole country ablaze.
+Indeed, the greatest prairie fire I have record of was maliciously
+started to windward of my ranch by an ill-disposed neighbour (one of the
+men whose cattle the Scotch Company had closed out and who ever after
+had a grudge against me) purposely to burn me out. He did not quite
+succeed, as by hard fighting all night we managed to save half the
+grass; but the fire extended 130 miles into Texas, burning out a strip
+from thirty to sixty miles wide. On account of a very high wind blowing
+that fire jumped my "guard," a term which needs explanation. All round
+my pasture, on the outside of the fence, for a distance of over forty
+miles was ploughed a fire-guard thus: two or three ploughed furrows and,
+100 feet apart, other two or three ploughed furrows, there being thus a
+strip of land forty miles long and 100 feet wide. Between these furrows
+we burnt the grass, an operation that required great care and yet must
+be done as expeditiously as possible to save time, labour and expense. A
+certain amount of wind must be blowing so as to insure a clean and rapid
+burn; but a high gusty wind is most dangerous, as the flames are pretty
+sure to jump the furrows, enter the pasture, and get away from you. The
+excitement at such a critical time is of course very great. In such
+cases it was at first<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span> our practice to catch and kill a yearling, split
+it open and hitch ropes to the hind feet, when two of us mounted men
+would drag the entire carcass over the line of fire. It was effective
+but an expensive and cumbrous method. Later I adopted a device called a
+"drag," composed of iron chains, in the nature of a harrow, covered by a
+raw hide for smothering purposes. This could be dragged quite rapidly
+and sometimes had to be used over miles and miles of encroaching fire.
+The horses might get badly burnt, and in very rank grass where the
+fierce flames were six to eight feet high it was useless. Sometimes we
+worked all night, and no doubt it formed a picturesque spectacle and a
+scene worthy of an artist's brush. Across the centre of the pasture for
+further safety, as also around the bull and horse pasture, was a similar
+fire-guard, so that I had in all some fifty-five miles of guard to
+plough and burn. It is such critical and dangerous, yet necessary, work
+that I always took care to be present myself and personally boss the
+operation. Without such a fire-guard one is never free from anxiety.
+Many other ranchers who were careless in this matter paid dearly for it.
+These fires were dangerous in other ways. A dear old friend of mine was
+caught by and burnt to death in one. Another man, a near neighbour, when
+driving a team of mules, got caught likewise, and very nearly lost<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span> his
+life. He was badly burnt and lost his team.</p>
+
+<p>Hitherto it had been the universal custom of cattlemen to use "grade"
+bulls, many of them, alas! mere "scrubs" of no breeding at all. No one
+used pure-bred registered bulls except to raise "grade" bulls with. I
+determined to use "registered" pure-bred bulls alone, and no others, to
+raise <i>steers</i> with, and was the first man to my knowledge to do so.
+Neighbours ridiculed the idea, saying that they would not get many
+calves, that they could not or would not "rustle"&mdash;that is, they would
+not get about with the cows&mdash;that they would need nursing and feeding
+and would not stand the climate. Well, I went east, selected and bought
+at very reasonable figures the number needed, all very high bred, indeed
+some of them fashionably so, and took them to the ranch. By the way,
+bulls were not called bulls in "polite" society: you must call them
+"males." Very shortly afterwards there was a rise in value of cattle, a
+strong demand for such bulls, and prices went "out of sight." Thus the
+bulls that cost me some 100 dollars apiece in a little while were worth
+200 or even 300 dollars. The young bulls "rustled" splendidly, and as
+next spring came along there was much interest felt as to results. To my
+great delight almost every cow had a calf, and nearly every calf was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span>
+alike red body and white face, etc. (Hereford). I kept and used these
+same bulls six or seven seasons; every year got the highest calf-brand
+or crop amongst all my neighbours; and soon, with prudent culling of the
+cows, my small herd (some 2000) was the best in the country; and my
+young steers topped the market, beating even the crack herds that had
+been established for twenty years and had great reputations.</p>
+
+<p>To give an instance: my principle was to work with little or no borrowed
+money. Thus my position was such that I did not always <i>have</i> to market
+my steers to pay running expenses; and as I hate trading and dickering,
+as it is called, my independence gave me a strong position. Well, once
+when travelling to the ranch I met on the train two "feeders" from the
+north, who told me they wanted to buy two or three hundred choice
+two-year-old, high-bred, even, well-coloured and well-shaped steers.
+Having by chance some photos in my pocket of my steers (as yearlings
+taken the year before) I produced them. They seemed pleased with them
+and asked the price, which I told them; but they said no ranch cattle
+were worth that money and ridiculed the idea of my asking it. "Oh," I
+said, "it is nothing to me; that is the price of the cattle," but I
+carefully also told them how to get to my place and invited them to come
+and see me. Oh, no!<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span> they said it was too ridiculous! We travelled on to
+Amarillo and I at once went out to Running Water. Only two days
+afterwards, on coming in to dinner, I found my two gentlemen seated on
+the porch waiting for me. After dinner we saddled up and went out to see
+the steers. The dealers were evidently surprised and made a long and
+careful inspection. Evidently they were well pleased, and on returning
+to the house it was also evident that they were going to adopt the usual
+tactics of whittling a small piece of wood (a seemingly necessary
+accompaniment to a trade) and "dickering"; so I again told them my
+terms, same as before, and hinted that they might take or leave them as
+they liked. The deal was closed without further ado, some money put up,
+and next day I started for England, leaving to the foreman the duty and
+responsibility of delivering the steers at the date specified. These
+men, like most other operators, were dealing with borrowed money got
+from commission houses in Kansas City. I learnt afterwards that their
+Kansas City friends, on hearing of the trade, refused to supply the
+funds till they had sent a man out specially to see the two-year-old
+steers that could possibly be worth so much money. He came out, saw
+them, and reported them to be well worth the price; and they were
+acknowledged to be the finest small bunch of steers ever<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span> shipped out of
+the south-west country. This was very gratifying indeed.</p>
+
+<p>Another revolution in ranch practice was the keeping up of my bulls in
+winter-time and not putting them out with the cows till the middle of
+July. This also met with the ridicule of all the "old-timers"; but it
+was entirely successful! The calf crop was not only a very large one but
+the calves were dropped all about the same time, were thus of an even
+age (an important matter for dealers), and they "came" when their
+mothers were strong and had lots of milk.</p>
+
+<p>Young cows and heifers having their first calves had to be watched very
+closely, and we had often to help them in delivery. It may also be
+mentioned here that the sight of a green, freshly-skinned hide, or a
+freshly-skinned carcass, will frequently cause cows to "slink" their
+calves. The smell of blood too creates a tremendous commotion amongst
+the cattle generally; why, is not quite known.</p>
+
+<p>I also made a practice in early spring of taking up weak or poor cows
+that looked like needing it, putting them in a separate pasture and
+feeding them on just two pounds of cotton-seed meal once a day; no hay,
+only the dry, wild grass in the small pasture. The good effect of even
+such a pittance of meal was simply astounding. Thereafter I do not think
+I ever lost a single cow from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span> poverty or weakness. This use of meal on
+a range ranch was in its way also a novelty. Afterwards it became
+general and prices of cotton-seed and cotton-seed meal doubled and more.</p>
+
+<p>When a very large number of range cattle, say 2000 or so, required
+feeding on account of poverty, hay in our country not being obtainable,
+cotton-seed (whole) would be fed to them by the simple and effective
+method of loading a large wagon with it, driving it over the pasture,
+and scattering thinly, not dumping, the seed on to the grass sod. The
+cattle would soon get so fond of it that they would come running as soon
+as the wagon appeared and follow it up in a long string, the strongest
+and greediest closest to the wagon, the poor emaciated, poverty-stricken
+ones tailing off in the rear. But not one single seed was wasted,
+everyone being gleaned and picked up in a very short time. It is the
+best, easiest and most effective way: indeed, the only possible way with
+such a large number of claimants. And as said before, the recuperating
+effect of this cotton-seed is simply astonishing. It may be noted,
+however, that if fed in bulk and to excess the animals will sometimes go
+blind, which must be guarded against.</p>
+
+<p>In the matter of salt it had become the common practice to use sacked
+stuff (pulverized) for cattle. There was a strong prejudice against<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span>
+rock salt; so much so that when I decided to buy a carload or two it had
+to be specially ordered. Another laugh was raised at my proposed use of
+it. The cattle would get sore tongues, or they would spend so long a
+time licking it they would have no time to graze, etc., etc. Meantime I
+had lost some cows by their too quick lapping of the pulverized stuff.
+Thereafter I never lost one from such a cause and the cattle throve
+splendidly. Besides, the rock salt was much easier handled and
+considerably more economical.</p>
+
+<p>My wells were deep, none less than 250 feet, the iron casing 10-inch
+diameter, the pipe 6-inch or 8-inch, and the mill-wheels 20 feet in
+diameter; this huge wind power being necessary to pump up from such a
+depth a sufficiency of water. The water was pumped directly into very
+large shallow drinking wooden tubs, thence into big reserve earthen
+tanks (fenced in), and thence again led by pipe to other large
+drinking-tubs outside and below the tanks, supplied with floating
+stop-valves. This arrangement, arrived at after much deliberation,
+worked very well indeed; no water was wasted, and it was always clean;
+and in very cold weather the cattle always got warm, freshly-pumped well
+water in the upper tub, an important matter and one reason why my cattle
+always did so well. But oh, dear! the trouble and work we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span> often had
+with these wells! Perhaps in zero temperature something would go wrong
+with the pump valve or the piston leather would wear out, or in a new
+well the quicksand would work in. Neither myself, foreman nor boy was an
+expert or had any mechanical knowledge; though continued troubles, much
+hard work, accompanied by, alas! harder language, was a capital
+apprenticeship. In bitter cold freezing weather I well remember we once
+had to pull out the rods and the piping three times in succession before
+we got the damned thing into shape, and then we did not know what had
+been the matter. To pull up first 250 feet of heavy rod, disjoint it,
+and lay it carefully aside; then pull up 250 feet of 6-inch or 8-inch
+iron piping, in 20-feet lengths, clamp and disjoint it, and put it
+carefully aside; then to use the sand-bucket to get the sand out of the
+well if necessary; repair and put into proper shape the valve and
+cylinder, etc.; then (and these are all parts of one operation),
+re-lower and connect the 250 feet of heavy piping, the equally long
+rods, and attach to the mill itself&mdash;oh, what anxiety to know if it was
+going to work or not! On this particular occasion, as stated, we&mdash;self,
+foreman and one boy&mdash;actually had to go through this tedious and
+dangerous performance three times in succession! To pull out the piping
+great power is needed, and we at first used<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span> a capstan made on the ranch
+and worked by hand. But it was slow work, very slow, and very hard work
+too; afterwards we used a stout, steady team of horses, with double
+tackle, and found it to work much more expeditiously. But there was
+always a great and ever-present danger of the pipe slipping, or a clamp,
+a bolt, or a hook, or even the rope breaking with disastrous results.</p>
+
+<p>These wells and mills afforded any disgruntled cowhand or "friendly"
+neighbour a simple and convenient opportunity of "getting even," as a
+single small nail dropped down a pipe at once clogged the valve and
+rendered the tedious operation necessary. I had altogether five of such
+wells.</p>
+
+<p>A little more "brag," if it may be called so, and I shall have done. But
+it will need some telling, and perhaps credulity on the reader's part. A
+certain wild plant called "loco" grows profusely in many parts of the
+Western States; but nowhere more profusely than it did in my pasture.
+Indeed it looked like this particular spot must have been its place of
+origin and its stronghold in time of adversity. Certainly, although it
+was common all over the plains, I never saw in any place such a dense
+and vigorous growth of it, covering like an alfalfa field solid blocks
+of hundreds of acres. This is no exaggeration. It had killed a few of
+our cattle in Arizona<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span> and ruined some of our best horses. The Scotch
+Company lost many hundreds of cattle by it, and also some horses. The
+plant seems to flourish in cycles of about seven years; that is, though
+some of it may be present every year it only comes in abundance,
+overwhelming abundance, once in the period stated. The peculiarity about
+it, too, is that it grows in the winter months and has flowered and
+seeded and died down by midsummer. Thus it is the only green and
+succulent-looking plant to be seen in winter-time on the brown plains.
+It is very conspicuous and in appearance much resembles clover or
+alfalfa. Cattle as a rule will avoid it, but for some unknown reason the
+time comes when you hear the expression the "cattle are eating loco." If
+so they will continue to eat it, to eat nothing else, till it is all
+gone; and those eating it will set the example to others, and all that
+have eaten it will go stark staring mad and the majority of them die.
+Horses are even more liable to take to it, and are affected exactly in
+the same way; they go quite crazy, refuse to drink water, cannot be led,
+and have a dazed, stupid appearance and a tottering gait, till finally
+they decline and die for want of nourishment. I have seen locoed horses
+taken up and fed on grain, when some of them recovered and quite got
+over the habit even of eating the weed; but these were exceptions.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span> Most
+locoed horses remained too stupid to do anything with and were never of
+much value. There is one strange fact, however, about them; saddle
+horses, slightly locoed, just so bad that they cannot be led, and
+therefore useless as saddlers, do, when hitched up to a wagon or buggy,
+though never driven before, make splendid work horses. They go like
+automatons; will trot if allowed till they fall down, and never balk.
+The worst outlaw horse we ever had, one that had thrown all the great
+riders of the country and had never been mastered, this absolute
+devilish beast got a pretty bad dose of the weed; and, to experiment, we
+hitched him up in a wagon, when lo! he went off like any old steady team
+horse. This is all very interesting; but that is enough as to its effect
+on live stock.</p>
+
+<p>At the request of the Department of Agriculture I sent to Washington
+some specimens of a grub which, when the plant reaches its greatest
+exuberance and abundance, infests it, eating out its heart and so
+killing it. It destroys the plant, but alas! generally too late to
+prevent the seed maturing and falling to earth. The plant itself has
+been several times carefully examined, its juices tested and
+experimentally administered to various animals. But no absolutely
+satisfactory explanation of its effects has been given out; and
+certainly no antidote or cure of its effects suggested.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Well, in a certain year the seven years' cycle came round; faithfully
+the loco plant cropped up all over the plains, the seed that had lain
+dormant for many years germinated and developed everywhere. As winter
+approached (in October) my fall round-up was due. Calves had to be
+branded, some old cows sold, and some steers delivered. I had sold
+nothing that year. On rounding-up the horses many of them showed signs
+of the weed. The neighbours flocked in and the work began. Only one
+round-up was made, when the idea seized me that if these cattle were
+"worked" in the usual way&mdash;that is, jammed round, chased about and
+"milled" for several hours&mdash;they would get tired and hungry, and on
+being turned loose would be inclined to eat whatever was nearest to
+them&mdash;probably the loco plant. It seemed so reasonable a fear, and I was
+so anxious about the cattle, that I ordered the foreman there and then
+to turn the herd quietly loose, explained to the neighbours my reasons
+for doing so, but allowed them to cut out what few cattle they had in
+the herd: and the year's work was thus at once abandoned. All that
+winter was a very anxious time. Reports came in from neighbouring
+ranches that their cattle were dying in hundreds. On driving through
+their pastures the loco appeared eaten to the ground; all the cattle
+were after it, and poor,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span> staggering, crazy animals were met on the road
+without sense enough to get out of your way. By the end of next spring
+some of my neighbours had few cattle left to round-up. One neighbour,
+the largest cattle-ranch in the world, owning some 200,000 head, was
+estimated to have lost at least 20,000. And meantime how were affairs
+going in my little place? It will seem incredible, but what is here
+written is absolute truth. The loco was belly high; the self-weaned
+calves could be seen wading through it; but ne'er a nibbled or eaten
+plant could be found. I often searched carefully for such dreaded signs
+but happily always failed: and I did not lose a single cow, calf or
+steer, nor were any found showing the slightest signs of being affected.</p>
+
+<p>Many reasons were advanced for the miraculous escape of these cattle;
+people from a hundred miles away came to see and learn the reason. No
+satisfactory explanation was suggested, and finally they were compelled
+to accept my own one, and agree that leaving the cattle undisturbed by
+abandoning the fall round-up was the real solution of the problem. The
+only work my men did that winter was to keep the fences up and in good
+shape, and whenever they saw stray cattle in my pasture to turn them out
+at once, fearing the danger of bad example. Next winter, the loco being
+still very bad, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span> same tactics were adopted and only one solitary
+yearling of mine was affected. So ended the worst loco visitation
+probably ever experienced in the West; not perhaps that the plant was
+more abundant than at some other periods, though I think it was, but for
+some unknown reason the cattle ate it more freely.</p>
+
+<p>The temperature on these plains sometimes went so low as 20&deg; below zero,
+with wind blowing. There was no natural shelter, literally nothing as
+big as your hat in the pasture, and several men advised the building of
+sheds, wind-breaks, etc. But experience told me just the opposite. I had
+seen cattle (well fed and carefully tended) freeze to death inside sheds
+and barns. Also I had seen whole bunches of cattle standing shivering
+behind open sheds and wind-breaks till they practically froze to death
+or became so emaciated as to eventually die of poverty. If you give
+cattle shelter they will be always hanging around it. So I built no
+sheds or anything else. When a blizzard came my cattle had to travel,
+and the continued travelling backwards and forwards kept the blood in
+circulation. There were a few cases of horns, feet, ears and mamm&aelig;
+frozen off, but I never had a cow frozen to death and never lost any
+directly from the severity of the weather. More than that, I never fed a
+pound of hay.</p>
+
+<p>Our name for calves that had lost their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span> mothers, and therefore the
+nourishment obtained from milk, was "dogies." These dogies were ever
+afterwards unmistakable in appearance, and remained stunted, "runty"
+little animals of no value. Yet, if taken up early enough and fed on
+nourishing diet, they would develop into as large and well-grown cattle
+as their more fortunate fellows.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p>
+
+<p>My foreman was an ordinary cowboy, but he was a thorough cattleman, had
+already been in my employ for seven years, and his "little
+peculiarities" were pretty well known to me. He became desperately
+jealous of his position (as foreman), resenting interference. It is a
+good characteristic, this desire for independence, if also accompanied
+by no fear of responsibility; and on these lines my ranch was run. I
+allowed him great independence, never interfered so long as he carried
+out general orders and "ran straight"; but I also put on him full
+responsibility. More than that, I allowed him to run his own small bunch
+of cattle, some hundred head, in my pasture, and gave him the use of my
+bulls; his grass, salt and water cost him nothing. This was a very
+unusual policy to adopt. But the idea was that it would thus be as much
+his interest as mine to see the fences kept up and in good repair, to
+see that the windmills and wells<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span> were kept in order, that the cattle
+had salt, were not stolen, etc., and prairie fires guarded against.
+Well, it all turned out right. My presence at the ranch during a year
+would not perhaps amount to a month of days; I could live in Denver, San
+Francisco or Mexico, and only come to the place at round-ups and
+branding-times. I do not think that a calf was ever stolen from me. The
+fact was I knew cattle in general and my own cattle in particular so
+well (and he knew it) that he had no opportunity, and perhaps was afraid
+to take advantage of me.</p>
+
+<p>It must be here mentioned that on selling out, and in tallying my cattle
+over to the buyer, the count was disappointingly short; not nearly so
+short as the Scotch Company's cattle, it is true, but still, considering
+that my cattle were inside a good fence, were well looked after, the
+huge calf crop and apparently small death loss, there was a shortage.
+Then there is no wonder at the greater shortage of the Company's cattle,
+where almost no care could be taken of them, where the calf tallies were
+in the hands of, and returned by, the foremen of other outfits, where
+the range was overstocked, the boggy rivers a death-trap, where wolves
+and thieves had free range, and where blackleg, mismothering of calves
+and loco made a big hole in the number of yearlings. In my pasture were
+also wolves and blackleg; and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span> loss in calves by these, difficult to
+detect, is invariably greater than suspected.</p>
+
+<p>Only one case of cattle-thieving occurred at my own ranch and I lost
+nothing by it. Two men stopped in for supper one day; they were
+strangers, but of course received every attention. They rode on
+afterwards, coolly picked up some thirty head of my cattle, drove them
+all night into Texas and sold them to a farmer there. Of course they
+were not missed out of so many cattle; but someone in Texas had seen
+them at their new home, noticed my brand and sent word to me. On going
+after them I found they had been sold to an innocent man who had paid
+cash for them and taken no bill of sale. It was not a pleasant duty to
+demand the cattle back from such a man, but he ought to have known
+better.</p>
+
+<p>Some rustlers in Arizona once detached from a train at a small station a
+couple of carloads of beef cattle, ran them back down the track to the
+corral, there unloaded the cattle and drove them off. This very smart
+trick of course was done during the night and while the crew were at
+supper.</p>
+
+<p>For all these reasons it will be seen why my small ranch was such a
+success and such a profitable and money-making institution. But alas! it
+was to be short-lived! As explained before, I was paying no rent and my
+fences were illegal. "Kind" friends, and I had lots of them,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span> reported
+the fences to Washington; a special agent was sent out to inspect,
+ordered the fence down and went away again. I disregarded the order. To
+take the fence down meant my getting out of the business or the ruin of
+the herd. Next year another agent came out, said my fence was an
+enclosure and must come down. Seeing still some daylight I took down
+some few miles of it, so that it could not be defined as an enclosure,
+but only a drift-fence. During the winter, however, I could not resist
+closing the gap again. Next season once more appeared a Government
+agent, who in a rage ordered the fence down under pains and penalties
+which could not well be longer disregarded. Cattle were up in price; a
+neighbour had long been anxious to buy me out; he was somewhat of a
+"smart Alick" and thought <i>he</i> could keep the fence up; he knew all the
+circumstances; so I went over and saw him, made a proposition, and in a
+few minutes the ranch, cattle, fences and mills were his. Poor man! in
+six months his fence was down and the cattle scattered all over the
+country. He eventually lost heavily by the deal; but being a man of
+substance I got my money all right. So closed my cattle-ranching
+experiences some eight years ago (1902).</p>
+
+<p>It may be noted that experience showed that polled black bulls were no
+good for ranch<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span> purposes. They get few calves, are lazy, and have not
+the "rustling" spirit. Durhams or Shorthorns also compared poorly in
+these respects with Herefords, and besides are not nearly so hardy. The
+white face is therefore king of the range. And bulls with red rings
+round the eyes by preference, as they can stand the bright glare of
+these hot, dry countries better. It used to be my keen delight to attend
+the annual cattle shows and auction sales of pure-bred bulls, and I
+would feel their hides and criticize their points till I almost began to
+imagine myself as competent as the ring judges.</p>
+
+<p>The ranch was in the heart of the great buffalo range. (Indeed the
+Comanche Indians, and even some white men, used to believe firmly that
+the buffaloes each spring came up out of the ground like ants somewhere
+on these Staked Plains, and from thence made their annual pilgrimage
+north.) It seems these animals were not loco eaters.</p>
+
+<p>On my first coming to New Mexico there were still some buffaloes on the
+plain, the last remnant of the uncountable, inconceivable numbers that
+not long before had swarmed over the country. Even when the first
+railroads were built trains were sometimes held up for hours to let the
+herds pass. As late as 1871 Colonel Dodge relates that he rode for
+twenty-five miles<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span> directly through an immense herd, the whole country
+around him and in view being like a solid mass of buffaloes, all moving
+north. In fact, during these years the migrating herd was declared to
+have a front of thirty to forty miles wide, while the length or depth
+was unknown. An old buffalo hunter loves nothing better than to talk of
+the wonderful old times. One of the oldest living ranchmen still has a
+private herd near Amarillo and has made many experiments in breeding the
+bulls to domestic Galloway cows. The progeny, which he calls cattalo,
+make excellent beef, and he gets a very big price for the hides as
+robes.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Appendix, Note III.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII</h2>
+
+<h3>ODDS AND ENDS</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The "Staked Plains"&mdash;High Winds&mdash;Lobo Wolves&mdash;Branding&mdash;Cows&mdash;Black
+Jack&mdash;Lightning and Hail&mdash;Classing Cattle&mdash;Conventions&mdash;"Cutting"
+versus Polo&mdash;Bull-Fight&mdash;Prize-Fights&mdash;River and Sea
+Fishing&mdash;Sharks.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>More odds and ends! and more apologies for the disconnected character of
+this chapter. It must be remembered that these notes are only jotted
+down as they have occurred to me. Of their irrelativeness one to another
+I am quite conscious, but the art of bringing them together in more
+proper order is beyond my capacity. Possibly it might not be advisable
+anyway.</p>
+
+<p>In my pasture of some 100,000 acres there was not a tree, a bush, or a
+shrub, or object of any nature bigger than a jack-rabbit; yet no sight
+was so gladsome to the eyes, no scenery (save the mark!) so beautiful as
+the range when clothed in green, the grass heading out, the lakes filled
+with water and the cattle fat, sleek and contented. Yet in after years,
+when passing through this same country by the newly-built railway in
+winter-time, it came as a wonder to me how one could have possibly
+passed so many<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span> years of his life in such a dreary, desolate,
+uninteresting-looking region. To-day the whole district, even my own old
+and familiar ranch, is desecrated (in the cattleman's eyes) by little
+nesters' (settlers) cottages, and fences so thick and close together as
+to resemble a Boer entanglement. I had done a bit of farming and some
+years raised good crops of Milo maize, Kafir corn, sorghum, rye, and
+even Indian corn. But severe droughts come on, when, as a nester once
+told me, for two years nothing was raised, not even umbrellas!</p>
+
+<p>These plains are, it may be safely said, the windiest place on earth,
+especially in early spring, when the measured velocity sometimes shows
+eighty miles per hour. When the big circular tumble weeds are bounding
+over the plains then is the time to look out for prairie fires; and woe
+betide the man caught in a blizzard in these lonely regions.</p>
+
+<p>Once when driving from a certain ranch to another, a distance of fifty
+miles, my directions were to "follow the main road." Fifty miles was no
+great distance and my team was a good one. I knew there were no houses
+between the two points. After driving what long experience told me was
+more than fifty miles, and still no ranch, I became a bit anxious; but
+there was nothing for it but to keep going. Black clouds in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span> north
+warned me of danger. I pushed the team along till they were wet with
+sweat; some snow fell; it grew dark as night; and a regular blizzard set
+in and I was in despair. I had a good bed in the buggy, so would myself
+probably have got through the night all right, but my horses were bound
+to freeze to death if staked out or tied up. As a last resource I threw
+the reins down and left it to the team to go wherever they pleased. For
+some time they kept on the road, but soon the jolting told me that they
+had left it and we began to go down a hill; in a little while great was
+my joy to see a light and to find ourselves soon in the hospitable
+shelter of a Mexican sheep-herder's hut. The Mexican unhitched the team
+and put them in a warm shed. For myself, he soon had hot coffee and
+tortillas on the table. I never felt so thankful in my life for such
+accommodation and such humble fare. The horses had never been in that
+part of the country before, that I knew; it was pitch dark, and yet they
+must have known in some mysterious way that in that direction was
+shelter and safety, as when I threw the lines down they even then
+continued to face the storm.</p>
+
+<p>It may be noted here that buffaloes always face the storm and travel
+against it; cattle and horses never.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Before entirely leaving the cattle business a few more notes may be of
+interest.</p>
+
+<p>Plagues of grasshoppers and locusts sometimes did awful damage to the
+range.</p>
+
+<p>When visiting at a neighbour's one must not dismount till invited to do
+so; also in saluting anyone the gloves must be removed before shaking
+hands. This is cowboy etiquette and must be duly regarded.</p>
+
+<p>At public or semi-private dances there is always a master of ceremonies,
+who is also prompter and calls out all the movements. He will announce a
+"quardreele," or maybe a "shorteesche," and keeps the company going with
+his "Get your partners!" "Balance all!" "Swing your partners!" "Hands
+across!" "How do you do?" and "How are you?" "Swing somewhere," and
+"Don't forget the bronco-buster," etc. etc., as someone has described
+it. The Mexicans are always most graceful dancers; cowboys, with their
+enormously high heels, and probably spurs, are a bit clumsy. At purely
+Mexican dances (Bailies) the two sexes do not speak, each retiring at
+the end of a dance to its own side of the room.</p>
+
+<p>Most cowboys have the peculiar faculty of "humming," produced by shaping
+the mouth and tongue in a certain way. The "hum" can be made to exactly
+represent the bagpipes; no one else did I ever hear do it but
+cowpunchers. I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span> have tried for hours but never quite succeeded in the
+art.</p>
+
+<p>Besides coyotes, which are everywhere common, the plains were infested
+by lobo wolves, a very large and powerful species; they denned in the
+breaks of the plains and it was then easiest to destroy them. They did
+such enormous damage amongst cattle that a reward of as high as thirty
+dollars per scalp was frequently offered for them, something less for
+the pups. The finding of a nest with a litter of perhaps six to eight
+young ones meant considerable money to the scalp-hunter. The wolves were
+plentiful and hunted in packs; and I have seen the interesting sight of
+a small bunch of mixed cattle rounded up and surrounded by a dozen of
+them, sitting coolly on their haunches till some unwary yearling left
+the protecting horns of its elders. Every time, when riding the range,
+that we spotted a lobo ropes were down at once and a more or less long
+chase ensued, the result depending much whether Mr Wolf had dined lately
+or not. But they were more addicted to horse and donkey flesh if
+obtainable. For purposes of poisoning them I used to buy donkeys at a
+dollar apiece and cut them up for bait. With hounds they gave good sport
+in a suitable country. But it is expensive work, as many dogs get
+killed, and no dog of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span> any breed, unless maybe the greyhound, can or
+will singly and twice tackle a lobo wolf.</p>
+
+<p>In the springtime, when the calves are dropping pretty thick, it is
+exceedingly interesting to note the protective habits of the mother
+cows. For instance, when riding you will frequently come on a two or
+three days' old baby snugly hidden in a bunch of long grass while the
+mother has gone to water. When calves get a little older you may find at
+mid-day, out on the prairie, some mile or two from water, a bunch of
+maybe forty calves. Their mammies have gone to drink; but not all of
+them! No, never all of them at the same time. One cow is always left to
+guard the helpless calves, and carries out her trust faithfully until
+relieved. This was and is still a complete mystery to me. Does this
+individual cow select and appoint herself to the office; or is she
+balloted for, or how otherwise is the selection made?</p>
+
+<p>This might be another picture subject&mdash;the gallant cow on the defensive,
+even threatening and aggressive, and the many small helpless calves
+gathering hastily around her for protection. Her! The self-appointed
+mother of the brood.</p>
+
+<p>When branding calves, suppose you have 400 cows and calves in the
+corral. First all calves are separated into a smaller pen. Then the
+branding begins. But what an uproar of bellows<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span> and "baas" takes place!
+My calves were all so very like one another in colour and markings that
+one was hardly distinguishable from another. The mothers can only
+recognize their hopeful offspring by their scent and by their "baa,"
+although amongst 400 it must be rather a nice art to do so&mdash;400
+different and distinct scents and 400 differently-pitched baas.</p>
+
+<p>Among these notes I should not forget to mention a brush plant that
+grows on the southern plains. It is well named the "wait-a-bit" thorn.
+Its hooks or claws are sharper than a cat's, very strong and recurve on
+the stems: so that a man afoot cannot possibly advance through it, and
+even on a horse it will tear the trousers off you in a very few minutes.
+Is the name not appropriate?</p>
+
+<p>Nothing so far has been said on the subject of "hold-ups." Railway train
+hold-ups were a frequent occurrence, and were only undertaken by the
+most desperate of men. One celebrated gang, headed by the famous outlaw,
+Black Jack, operated mostly on a railway to the north of us and another
+railway to the south, the distance between being about 400 miles. Their
+line of travel between these two points was through Fort Sumner; and in
+our immediate neighbourhood they sometimes rested for a week or two,
+hiding out as it were, resting horses and laying plans. No doubt they
+cost us some calves for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span> beef, though they were not the worst offenders.
+What annoyed me most was that Black Jack himself, when evading pursuit,
+raided my horse pasture one night, caught up the very best horse I ever
+owned, rode him fifty miles, and cut his throat.</p>
+
+<p>In New Mexico, where at first it seemed everybody's hand was against me,
+I was gratified to find that I had got a reputation as a fist-fighter,
+and as I never practised boxing in my life, never had the gloves on,
+never had a very serious fist fight with anyone, the idea of having such
+a reputation was too funny; but why should one voluntarily repudiate it?
+It was useful. The men had also somehow heard that I could hold a
+six-shooter pretty straight. Such a reputation was even more useful. I
+was not surprised therefore that a plan should be hatched to test my
+powers in that line. It came at the round-up dinner-hour on the
+Company's range (New Mexico). A small piece of board was nailed to a
+fence post and the boys began shooting at it. In a casual way someone
+asked me to try my hand. Knowing how much depended on it I got out my
+faithful old 45&deg; six-shooter that I had carried for fifteen years, and
+taking quick aim, as much to my own surprise as to others', actually hit
+the centre of the mark! It was an extraordinarily good shot (could not
+do it again perhaps<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span> in twenty trials) but it saved my reputation. Of
+course no pressure could have persuaded me to fire again. That reminds
+me of another such occasion.</p>
+
+<p>Once when camped alone on the Reservation in Arizona, a party of
+officers from Camp Apache turned up. They had a bite to eat with me and
+the subject of shooting came up. Someone stuck an empty can in a tree at
+a considerable distance from us and they began shooting at it with
+carbines. When my turn came I pulled out the old 45&deg; pistol and by lucky
+chance knocked the bottom out at the first shot. My visitors were amazed
+that a six-shooter had such power and could be used with such accuracy
+at that distance. In this case it was also a lucky shot; but constant
+practice at rabbits, prairie dogs and targets had made me fairly
+proficient. In New Mexico I had a cowboy working for me who was a
+perfect marvel, a "born" marksman such as now and then appears in the
+West. With a carbine he could keep a tin can rolling along the ground by
+hitting, never the can, but just immediately behind and under it with
+the greatest accuracy. If one tossed nickel pieces (size of a shilling)
+in succession in front of him he would hit almost without fail every one
+of them with his carbine&mdash;a bullet not shot! He left me to give
+exhibition shooting at the Chicago Exposition.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>On my ranch, at Running Water Draw, was unearthed during damming
+operations, a vast quantity of bones of prehistoric age; which calls for
+the remark that not only the horse but also the camel was at one time
+indigenous to North America.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing has been said yet about hail or lightning storms. Some of the
+latter were indescribably grand, when at night the whole firmament would
+be absolutely ablaze with flashes, sheets and waves so continuous as to
+be without interval. Once when lying on my bed on the open prairie such
+a storm came on. It opened with loud thunder and some brilliant flashes,
+then the rain came down and deluged us, the water running two inches
+deep over the grass; and when the rain ceased the wonderful electric
+storm as described continued for an hour longer. The danger was over;
+but the sight was awe-inspiring in the extreme. Night-herding too during
+such a storm was a strange experience. No difficulty to see the cattle;
+the whole herd stood with tails to the wind; the men lined out in front,
+each well covered by his oilskin slicker, and his horse's tail likewise
+turned to the storm; the whole outfit in review order so to speak, the
+sole object of the riders being to prevent the cattle from "drifting."
+This book contains no fiction or exaggeration; yet it will be hardly
+believed when I state that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span> hail actually riddled the corrugated iron
+roof of my ranch house&mdash;new iron, not old or rusty stuff. The roof was
+afterwards absolutely useless as a protection against rain.</p>
+
+<p>Mirages in the hot dry weather were a daily occurrence. We did not see
+imaginary castles and cities turned upside down and all that sort of
+thing, but apparent lakes of water were often seen, so deceptive as to
+puzzle even the oldest plainsman. Cattle appeared as big as houses and
+mounted men as tall as church steeples.</p>
+
+<p>In all the vicious little cow-towns scattered about the country, whose
+attractions were gambling and "tarantula juice," there was always to be
+found a Jew trader running the chief and probably only store in the
+place. I have known such a man arrive in the country with a pack on his
+back who in comparatively few years would own half the county.</p>
+
+<p>What a remarkable people the Jews are! We find them all over the world
+(barring Scotland) successful in almost everything they undertake, a
+prolific race, and good citizens, yet carrying with them in very many
+cases the characteristics of selfishness, greed and ostentation.</p>
+
+<p>Something should be said about "classing" cattle. "Classing" means
+separating or counting the steers or she cattle of a herd into their
+ages as yearlings, "twos," "threes," etc. It used to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span> be done in old
+days by simply stringing the herd out on the open plain and calling out
+and counting each animal as it passed a certain point. But later it
+became the custom to corral the herd and run them through a chute, where
+each individual could be carefully inspected and its age agreed on by
+both parties. Even that might not prove quite satisfactory, as will be
+shown in the following instance. I had sold to a certain gentleman (a
+Scotchman again), manager for two large cattle companies, a string of
+some 1000 steers, one, two and three years old. I drove them to his
+ranch, some 300 miles, and we began classing them on the prairie,
+cutting each class separately. It is difficult in many cases to judge a
+range steer's age. Generally it is or should be a case of give-and-take.
+But my gentleman was not satisfied and expressed his dissatisfaction in
+not very polite language. So to satisfy him I agreed to put them through
+the chute and "tooth" them, the teeth being an infallible test (or at
+least the accepted test) of an animal's age. To my surprise this man,
+the confident, trusted manager of long years' experience, could not tell
+a yearling from a "two" or a "two" from a "three," but sat on the fence
+and cussed, and allowed his foreman to do the classing for him.</p>
+
+<p>The Texas Cattlemen's Annual Convention was a most important event in
+our lives. It was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span> held sometimes in El Paso, sometimes in San Antonio,
+but oftenest in Fort Worth, and was attended by ranchmen from all over
+the State, as well as by many from New Mexico, and by buyers from
+Wyoming, Montana, Nebraska, Kansas and elsewhere. Being held early in
+spring the sales then made generally set the prices for the year. Much
+dickering was gone through and many deals made, some of enormous extent.
+Individual sales of 2000, 5000 or even 10,000 steers were effected, and
+individual purchases of numbers up to 20,000 head; even whole herds of
+30,000 to 50,000 cattle were sometimes disposed of. It was a meeting
+where old friends and comrades, cattle kings and cowboys, their wives,
+children and sweethearts, met and had a glorious old time. It brought an
+immense amount of money into the place, and hence the strenuous efforts
+made by different towns (the saloons) "to get the Convention."</p>
+
+<p>Among the celebrities to be met there might be Buffalo Jones, a typical
+plainsman of the type of Buffalo Bill (Cody). Jones some years ago went
+far north to secure some young musk oxen. None had ever before been
+captured. He and his men endured great hardships and privations, but
+finally, by roping, secured about a dozen yearlings. The Indians swore
+that he should not take them out of their territory. On return<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span>ing he
+had got as far as the very edge of the Indian country and was a very
+proud and well-pleased man. But that last fatal morning he woke up to
+find all the animals with their throats cut. Only last year Jones, with
+two New Mexican cowboys and a skilled photographer, formed the daring
+and apparently mad plan of going to Africa and roping and so capturing
+any wild animal they might come across, barring, of course, the
+elephant. His object was to secure for show purposes cinematograph
+pictures. He took some New Mexican cow-ponies out with him, and he and
+his men succeeded in all they undertook to do, capturing not only the
+less dangerous animals, such as antelope, buck and giraffe, but also a
+lioness and a rhinoceros, surely a very notable feat.</p>
+
+<p>Amarillo in the Panhandle was then purely a cattleman's town. It was a
+great shipping point&mdash;at one time the greatest in the world&mdash;and was
+becoming a railroad centre. I was there a good deal, and for amusement
+during the slack season went to work to fix up a polo ground. No one in
+the town had ever even seen the game played, so the work and expense all
+fell on myself. I was lucky to find a capital piece of ground close to
+the town, absolutely level and well grassed. After measuring and laying
+off, with a plough I ran furrows for boundary lines, stuck in the
+goal<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span>posts, filled up the dog-holes, etc., and there we were. At first
+only three or four men came forward, out of mere curiosity perhaps.
+After expounding the game and the rules, etc., as well as possible we
+started in to play. The game soon "caught on," and in a little while a
+number more joined, nearly all cattlemen and cowpunchers. They became
+keen and enthusiastic, too keen sometimes, for in their excitement they
+disregarded the rules. The horses, being cow-ponies, were of course as
+keen and as green as the players, and the game became a most dangerous
+one to take part in. Still we kept on, no one was very badly hurt, and
+we had lots of glorious gallops&mdash;fast games in fact.</p>
+
+<p>The word "polo" is derived from Tibetan pulu, meaning a knot of willow
+wood. In Cachar, and also at Amarillo, we used bamboo-root balls. The
+game originated in Persia, passed to Tibet, and thence to the
+Munipoories, and from the Munipoories the English learnt it. The first
+polo club ever organized was the Cachar Kangjai Club, founded in 1863.
+It may be remarked here that, hard as the riding is in polo, in my
+opinion it does not demand nearly such good riding as does the "cutting"
+of young steers. In polo your own eye is on the ball, and when another
+player or yourself hits it you know where to look for it, and rule your
+horse accordingly.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span> In "cutting," on the other hand, your horse, if a
+good one, does nearly all the work; just show it the animal you want to
+take out and he will keep his eye on it and get it out of the herd
+without much guidance. But there is this great difference: you never can
+tell what a steer is going to do! You may be racing or "jumping" him out
+of the herd when he will suddenly flash round before you have time to
+think and break back again. Herein your horse is quicker than yourself,
+knowing apparently instinctively the intention of the rollicky
+youngster, so that both steer and your mount have wheeled before you are
+prepared for it. You must therefore try to be always prepared, sit very
+tight, and profit by past experiences. It is very hard work and, as said
+before, needs better horsemanship than polo. To watch, or better still
+to ride, a first-class cutting horse is a treat indeed.</p>
+
+<p>During these last few years of ranch life my leisure gave me time to
+make odd excursions here and there. Good shooting was to be had near
+Amarillo&mdash;any amount of bobwhite quail, quantities of prairie-chickens,
+plovers, etc. And, by-the-bye, at Fort Sumner I had all to myself the
+finest kind of sport. There was a broad avenue of large cotton-wood
+trees some miles in length. In the evening the doves, excellent eating,
+and, perhaps for that reason, tremendously fast fliers,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span> would flash by
+in twos or threes up or down this avenue, going at railroad speed. But
+my pleasure was marred by having no companion to share the sport.</p>
+
+<p>Then I made many trips to the Rocky Mountains to fish for rainbow trout
+in such noble streams as the Rio Grande del Norte, the Gunnison, the
+Platte and others. In the early days these rivers were almost virgin
+streams, hotching with trout of all sizes up to twelve and even fifteen
+pounds. The monsters could seldom be tempted except with spoon or live
+bait, but trout up to six or seven pounds were common prizes. Out of a
+small, a ridiculously small, tributary of the Gunnison River I one day
+took more fish than I could carry home, each two to three pounds in
+weight. But that was murdering&mdash;mere massacre and not sport.</p>
+
+<p>During a cattle convention held at El Paso I first attended a bull-fight
+in Juarez and I have since seen others in the city of Mexico and
+elsewhere. The killing of the poor blindfolded horses is a loathsome,
+disgusting sight, and so affected me that I almost prayed that the
+gallant, handsome matadors would be killed. Indeed, at Mexico City, I
+afterwards saw Bombita, a celebrated Spanish matador, tossed and gored
+to death. The true ring-bull of fighting breed is a splendid animal;
+when enraged he does not seem<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span> to suffer much from the insertion of
+banderillas, etc., and his death stab is generally instantaneously
+fatal. Certainly the enthusiasm of the ring, the presence of Mexican
+belles and their cavalleros, the picturesqueness and novelty of the
+whole show are worth experiencing.</p>
+
+<p>It should be remembered that the red cloth waved in front of him is the
+main cause of Toro's irritation. Why it should so irritate him we don't
+know. When a picador and his horse are down they are absolutely at the
+mercy of the bull; and the onlooker naturally thinks that he will
+proceed to gore man and horse till they are absolutely destroyed. But
+the cloth being at once flaunted near him he immediately attacks it
+instead and is thus decoyed to another part of the ring. Thus, too, the
+apparent danger to the swordsman who delivers the <i>coup de gr&acirc;ce</i> is not
+really very great if he show the necessary agility and watchfulness.
+When a bull charges he charges not his real enemy, but that exasperating
+red cloth; and the man has only to step a little to the side, but <i>still
+hold the cloth in front</i> of the bull, to escape all danger. Without this
+protecting cloth no matador would dare to enter the ring. The
+banderilleros, too, thus escape danger because they do their work while
+the bull's whole attention is on the red cloth operated by another man
+in front. The man I saw gored,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span> tossed and killed must have made some
+little miscalculation, or been careless, and stood not quite out of the
+bull's way, so that the terrible sharp horns caught him, as one may say,
+<i>by mistake</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Mexicans, too, like my coolies in India, were great cock-fighters.
+It is a national sport and also a cruel one.</p>
+
+<p>Matadors are paid princely sums. The most efficient, the great stars,
+come from Spain. Many of them are extremely handsome men and their
+costume a handsome and picturesque one. As a mark of their profession
+they wear a small pigtail, not artificial but of their own growing hair.
+I travelled with one once but did not know it till he removed his hat.</p>
+
+<p>Denver and San Francisco were great centres of prize-fighting. In both
+places I saw many of the great ring men of the day, in fact never missed
+an opportunity of attending such meetings. It was mostly, however,
+"goes" between the "coming" men, such as Jim Corbett and other
+aspirants. A real champion fight between heavyweights I was never lucky
+enough to witness.</p>
+
+<p>Base-ball games always appealed to me, and to witness a first-class
+match only a very great distance would prevent my attendance. To
+appreciate the game one must thoroughly understand its thousand fine
+points. It absorbs the onlooker's interest as no other game can do.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span>
+Every player must be constantly on the alert and must act on his own
+judgment. The winning or losing of the match may at any moment lie with
+him. The game only lasts some two hours; but for the onlookers every
+moment of these two hours is pregnant with interest and probably intense
+excitement. Here is no sleeping and dozing on the stands for hours at a
+time as witnessed at popular cricket matches. Time is too valuable in
+America for that, and men's brains are too restless. At a ball-game the
+sight of a man slumbering on the benches is inconceivable.</p>
+
+<p>Sea-fishing also attracted me very much. On the California coast, around
+Catalina and other islands, great sport is to be had among the
+yellow-tails, running up to 50 lbs. weight. They are a truly game fish
+and put up a capital fight. Jew-fish up to 400 lbs. are frequently
+caught with rod and line, but are distinctly not a game fish. Albacores
+can be taken in boat-loads; they are game enough but really too common.
+The tuna is <i>par excellence</i> the game fish of the coast. At one time you
+might reasonably expect to get a fish (nothing under 100 lbs. counted),
+but lately, and while I was there, a capture was so rare as to make the
+game not worth the candle. A steam or motor launch is needed and that
+costs money. I hired such a boat once or twice;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span> but the experience of
+some friends who had fished every day for two months and not got one
+single blessed tuna damped my ambition. Tunas there run up to 300 lbs.,
+big enough, and yet tiny compared with the monsters of the
+Mediterranean, the Morocco coast and the Japanese seas; there they run
+up to 2000 lbs. The tuna is called the "leaping" tuna because he plays
+and hunts his prey on the surface of the water; but he never "leaps" as
+does the tarpon. Once hooked he goes off to sea and will tow your boat
+maybe fifteen miles; that is to say, he partly tows the boat, but the
+heavy motor launch must also use its power to keep up or the line will
+at once be snapped. The tuna belongs to the mackerel family, is built
+like a white-head torpedo, and for gameness, speed and endurance is hard
+to beat. Only the pala of the South Pacific Seas, also a mackerel, may,
+according to Louis Becke, be his rival. Becke indeed claims it to be the
+gamest of all fish. But its man&oelig;uvres are different from a tuna's and
+similar to those of the tarpon. What is finer sport, I think, and
+perhaps not quite so killing to the angler, is tarpon-fishing. Most of
+our ambitious tarpon fishers go to Florida, where each fish captured
+will probably cost you some fifty dollars. My tarpon ground was at
+Aransas Pass, on the Gulf Coast of Texas. There in September the fish<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span>
+seem to congregate preparatory to their migration south. I have seen
+them there in bunches of fifty to seventy, swimming about in shallow,
+clear water, their great dorsal fins sticking out, for all the world
+like a lot of sharks. My first experience on approaching in a small row
+boat such an accumulation of fish muscle, grit and power will never be
+forgotten. It was one of <i>the</i> events of my chequered life. The boatman
+assured me I should get a "strike" of a certainty as soon as the bait
+was towed within sight of them. My state of excitement was so great that
+really all nerve force was gone. My muscles, instead of being tense and
+strong, seemed to be relaxed and feeble; my whole body was in a tremble.
+To see these monster fish of 150 to 200 lbs. swimming near by, and to
+know that next moment a tremendous rush and fight would begin, was to
+the novice almost a painful sensation. Not quite understanding the
+mechanism of the powerful reel and breaks, and being warned that thumbs
+or fingers had sometimes been almost torn off the hand, I grasped the
+rod very gingerly. But I need not say what my first fish or any
+particular fish did or what happened. I will only say that I got all I
+wanted&mdash;enough to wear me out physically till quite ready to be gaffed
+myself. It is tremendously hard work. To rest myself and vary the sport
+I would leave the tarpon and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span> tackle the red-fish, an equally game and
+fighting fish, but much smaller, scaling about 15 to 20 lbs. There was a
+shoal of them visible, or at least a bunch of about 100, swimming right
+on the edge of the big breaking surf. Like the tarpon they thus keep
+close company on account of the sharks (supposition). It was dangerous
+and difficult to get the boat near enough to them; but when you did
+succeed there was invariably a rush for your bait and a game fight to
+follow. They are splendid chaps. Then I would return to the tarpon and
+have another battle royal; and so it went on. But sometimes you would
+hook a jack fish (game, and up to 25 lbs.), and sometimes get into a
+shark of very big proportions. Indeed, the sharks are a nuisance, and
+will sometimes cut your tarpon in two close to your boat, and they
+eagerly await the time when you land your fish and unhook him to turn
+him loose.</p>
+
+<p>Another noble fish, of which I was lucky enough to get several, was the
+king-fish, long, pike-shaped and silvery, a most beautiful creature, and
+probably the fastest fish that swims. I had not realized just how quick
+any fish could swim till I hooked one of these. He acts much as the
+tarpon does. But I have not yet told how the latter, the king of the
+herring race, does act. On being hooked he makes a powerful rush for a
+hundred yards or so; then he springs straight up<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span> high out of the water,
+as much as six to ten feet, shakes his head exactly as a terrier does
+with a rat, falls back to make another rush and another noble spring. He
+will make many springs before you dare take liberties and approach the
+landing shore. But the peculiarity of this fish is that his runs are not
+all in one direction. His second run may take quite a different line;
+and at any time he may run and spring into or over your boat. When two
+anglers have fish on at the same time, and in close neighbourhood, the
+excitement and fun are great. The tarpon's whole mouth, palate and jaws
+have not a suspicion of muscle or cartilage about them; all is solid
+bone, with only a few angles and corners where it is possible for the
+hook to take good hold. Unless the hook finds such a fold in the bones
+you are pretty sure to lose your fish&mdash;three out of four times. Probably
+by letting him gorge the bait you will get him all right, but it would
+entail killing him to get the hook out. In winter the tarpons go south,
+and perhaps the best place to fish them is at Tempico in Mexico. But let
+me strongly recommend Aransas Pass in September. There is good
+quail-shooting, rabbits, and thousands of water-fowl of every
+description; also a very fair little hotel where I happened to be almost
+the only visitor. At Catalina Islands, by the way, whose climate is
+absolutely delightful,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span> where there are good hotels, and where the
+visitors pass the whole day in the water or on land in their
+bathing-suits, one can hire glass-bottom boats, whereby to view the
+wonderful and exquisitely beautiful flora of the sea, and watch the
+movements of the many brilliantly-coloured fish and other creatures that
+inhabit it. The extraordinary clearness of the water there is
+particularly favourable for the inspection of these fairy bowers. One
+day I determined to try for a Jew-fish, just to see how such a huge,
+ungainly monster would act. Anchoring, we threw the bait over, and in a
+short time I pulled in a rock cod of nearly 7 lbs. weight. My boatman
+coolly threw the still hooked fish overboard again, telling me it would
+be excellent bait for the big ones we were after. Well, I did not get
+the larger fish; but the sight on looking overboard into the depths was
+so astonishing as to be an ample reward for any other disappointment. On
+the surface was a dense shoal of small mullet or other fish; below them,
+six or eight feet, another shoal of an entirely different kind; below
+these another shoal of another kind, and so on as far down as the eye
+could penetrate. It was a most marvellous sight indeed, and showed what
+a teeming life these waters maintain. It seemed that a large fish had
+only to lie still with its huge mouth open, and close it every now and
+then<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span> when he felt hungry, to get a dinner or a luncheon fit for any
+fishy alderman. It must be a fine field for the naturalist, the
+ichthyologist, probably as fine as that round Bermudas' coral shores, as
+illustrated by the new aquarium at Hamilton. But I can hardly think that
+the fish of any other climate can compare for brilliancy of colouring
+and fantastic variety of shape with those captured on the Hawaiian coast
+and well displayed in the aquarium at Honolulu.</p>
+
+<p>I must not forget to mention that at Aransas Pass one may sometimes see
+very large whip or sting-rays. They may easily be harpooned, but the
+wonderful stories told me of their huge size (I really dare not give the
+dimensions), their power and ferocity, quite scared me off trying
+conclusions with them. There one may also capture blue-fish, white-fish,
+sheepheads and pompanos; all delicious, the pompanos being the most
+highly-prized and esteemed, and most expensive, of America's many fine
+table fishes. Order a pompano the first opportunity.</p>
+
+<p>Having already mentioned sharks, it may be stated here that one captured
+in a net on the California coast four years ago was authoritatively
+claimed to be the largest ever taken, yet his length was only some 36
+feet; although it is true that the <i>Challenger</i> Expedition dredged up
+shark teeth so large that it was judged that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> the owner must have been
+80 to 90 feet long. The Greynurse shark of the South Seas is the most
+dreaded of all its tribe; it fears nothing but the Killer, a savage
+little whale which will attack and whip any shark living, and will not
+hesitate to tackle even a sperm whale. Shark stories are common and
+every traveller has many horrible ones to recount. Yet the greatest and
+best authorities assert that sharks are mere scavengers (as they are,
+and most useful ones) and will never attack an active man, or any man,
+unless he be in extremities&mdash;that is, dead, wounded or disabled; though,
+as among tigers, there probably are some man-eaters. A large
+still-standing reward has been offered for a fully-certified case of a
+shark voluntarily attacking a man, other than exceptions as above noted,
+and that reward has not yet been claimed. Whenever I hear a thrilling
+shark story I ask if the teller is prepared to swear to having himself
+witnessed the event; invariably the experience is passed on to someone
+else and the responsibility for the tale is laid on other shoulders. On
+a quite recent voyage a talkative passenger confidently stated having
+seen a shark 70 feet long. I ventured to measure out that distance on
+the ship's deck, and asked him and his credulous listeners to regard and
+consider it. It gained me an enemy for life.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>One of the most famous and historical sharks was San Jos&eacute; Joe, who
+haunted the harbour of Corinto, a small coast town in Salvador. Every
+ship that entered the harbour was sure to have some bloodthirsty fiend
+on board to empty his cartridges into this unfortunate creature. His
+carcass was reckoned to be as full of lead as a careful housewife's
+pin-cushion of pins. But all this battering had no effect on him.
+Finally, and after my own visit to that chief of all
+yellow-fever-stricken dens, a British gun-boat put a shell into Joe and
+blew him into smithereens. In many shark-infested waters, such as around
+Ocean Island, the natives swim fearlessly among them. This ocean island,
+by the way, is probably the most intrinsically valuable spot of land on
+earth, consisting of a solid mass of coral and phosphate. "Pelorus
+Jack," who gave so much interest to the Cook Channel in New Zealand, was
+not a shark.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX</h2>
+
+<h3>IN AMARILLO</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p class='center'>Purchase of Lots&mdash;Building&mdash;Boosting a Town.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>Enough of odds and ends. To return to purely personal affairs. After
+selling the cattle and ranch the question at once came up&mdash;What now? I
+had enough to live on, but not enough to allow me to live quite as I
+wished, though never ambitious of great wealth. What had been looked
+forward to for many years was to have means enough to permit me to
+travel over the world; and at the same time to have my small capital
+invested in such a way as would secure not only as big a per cent.
+interest as possible, with due security, but also a large probability of
+unearned increment, so to speak; and above all to require little
+personal attention. Dozens of schemes presented themselves, many with
+most rosy outlooks. I was several times on the very verge of decision,
+and how easily and differently one's whole future may be affected!
+Perhaps by now a millionaire!&mdash;perhaps a pauper! At one time I was on
+the point of buying a cotton plantation in the South. The only obstacle
+was the shortage of convict labour! A convict negro <i>must</i> work; the
+free negro won't. Finally I bought some<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span> city lots in the town of
+Amarillo&mdash;the most valuable lots I could find, right at the city's
+pulse, the centre of business; in my judgment they would in all
+probability always be at the centre, and that as the city grew so would
+their value grow, and thus the unearned increment would be secured. I
+bought these lots by sheer pressure; the owner did not want to sell, but
+I made him name his own price, and closed the deal, to his astonishment.
+It was a record price and secured me some ridicule. But the funniest
+part has to come. In a little while I became dissatisfied with my deal,
+and actually approached the seller and asked him if he would cancel it.
+He too had regretted parting with the property, and to my relief
+assented. Once more I spent nearly a year ranging about the whole
+western country, looking into different propositions, and again I came
+back to Amarillo, again was impressed with the desirability of the same
+lots, and actually demanded of the still more astonished owner if he
+would sell them to me. No! no! he did not want to part with them; and I
+knew he spoke the truth. Again I forced him, and so hard that at last he
+put on what he considered a prohibitory price, a much higher one than
+before asked, but I snapped him up at once. The news soon got all over
+town, it could not be kept quiet. Once more the supposed knowing ones
+and "cute" business men eyed me askance, and no doubt thought me a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span>
+fool, or worse. Only one man approved of my action, but I valued his
+opinion more than that of all the rest. This deal again made a stir
+amongst the Real Estate offices, and lot values went soaring; and when I
+had erected a handsome business block on the property a regular "boom"
+set in. It gave the little town a lift and the people confidence. One
+man was good enough to tell me that I had more "nerve" than anyone he
+had ever met. Did he mean rashness? Well, my nerve simply came from
+realizing what a fine outlook lay before the town. It seemed to me to be
+bound to be a great distributing centre, also a railroad centre; that
+the illimitable acreage of plains-lands was bound in time to be settled
+on, and that thus the population would rapidly increase; which
+anticipations have happily come true. My whole capital, and more, was
+now sunk and disposed of. My mind at least in that respect was at rest;
+and it certainly looked as if the long-nursed scheme was about to be
+realized. In a few years the unearned increment was at least 100 per
+cent.; rents also went up surprisingly, and also, alas! the taxes.
+Unfortunately, within a year after completion of the building, and while
+I was in Caracas, Venezuela, an incendiary, a drunken gambler who had
+been running a "game" illicitly in one of the rooms, and who had been
+therefore turned out, deliberately used kerosene oil and set fire to the
+building.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span> Result, a three-quarters' loss! Luckily I was well insured;
+even in the rentals, to the surprise of many people who had never heard
+of rental insurance before. The insurance settlement and payment was
+effected between myself and the agent in less than half an hour, and
+just as soon as I could get at it an architect was working on plans for
+a new structure. With the three months' loss on account of my absence,
+it was more than a year before the new building was ready for occupancy.
+It was, and is, a better-arranged and handsomer one than the old block,
+and its total rental is much greater. The town has grown very much and
+seems to be permanently established. The building, and my affairs, are
+entirely in the hands of a responsible agent; and I am free to go where
+inclination calls. Nothing shall be said about the worries, the delays,
+the wage disputes, the lawsuits, etc., seemingly always in attendance on
+the erection of any building. Well, it is over now, and too sickening to
+think about! Nor shall much be said about the frequent calls on the
+property-owner to subscribe, to "put up," for any bonus the city may
+have decided to offer to secure the placing in "oor toon" of a State
+Methodist College, a State Hospital, a State Federal Building; or to
+induce a new railroad to build in; not to mention the securing for your
+own particular district of the town the site of a new court-house,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span> a
+new post-office, etc. etc. The enmity caused by this latter contest is
+always bitter. But always anything to boost the town! This little town
+actually last year paid a large sum to the champion motor-car racer of
+America to give an exhibition in Amarillo. Even a flying-machine meeting
+was consummated, one of the first in the whole West.</p>
+
+<p>In this plains country, such as surrounds Amarillo, during the land
+boom, immense tracts were bought by speculators, who then proceeded to
+dispose of it to farmers and small settlers. They do this on a
+methodical and grand scale. One such man chartered special trains to
+bring out from the middle States his proposed clients or victims. To
+meet the trains he owned as many as twenty-five motor-cars, in which at
+once on arrival these people were driven all over the property to make
+their selection.</p>
+
+<p>The first breaking of this prairie country is done with huge steam
+ploughs, having each twelve shares, so that the breaking is done very
+rapidly, the depth cultivated being only some two inches or three
+inches. The thick close sod folds over most beautifully and exactly, and
+it was always a fascinating sight, if a sad one, to watch this
+operation&mdash;the first opening up of this soil that had lain uncultivated
+for so many &aelig;ons of time. The seed may be simply scattered on the sod
+before the breaking, and often a splendid<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span> crop is thus obtained.
+Simplicity of culture, truly!</p>
+
+<div class="center" style="padding-top: 2em; ">
+ <a name="img012" id="img012"></a>
+<img src="images/img012.jpg"
+    alt="BREAKING THE PRAIRIE."
+    title="BREAKING THE PRAIRIE." />
+</div>
+
+<h4>BREAKING THE PRAIRIE.</h4>
+
+<div class="center" style="padding-top: 2em; ">
+ <a name="img013" id="img013"></a>
+<img src="images/img013.jpg"
+    alt="FIRST CROP&mdash;MILO MAIZE."
+    title="FIRST CROP&mdash;MILO MAIZE." />
+</div>
+
+<h4>FIRST CROP&mdash;MILO MAIZE.</h4>
+
+
+<p>Before leaving the United States of America a few notes about that
+country. Though as a rule physically unpicturesque, it has some great
+wonder-places and beauty spots, such as the Yosemite Valley, the Grand
+Ca&ntilde;on of the Colorado, the Yellowstone Park, the Falls of Niagara, and
+the big trees of California, which trees it may be now remarked are
+conifers (Sequoia gigantea and Sequoia sempervirens), which attain a
+height of 400 feet. Sempervirens is so called because young trees
+develop from the roots of a destroyed parent.</p>
+
+<p>If the reader has never seen these enormous trees he cannot well
+appreciate their immense altitude and dimensions. Remember that our own
+tallest and noblest trees in England do not attain more than 100 feet or
+so in height; then try to imagine those having four times that height
+and stems or trunks proportionately huge. It is like comparing our
+five-storey buildings with the forty-storey buildings of New York, eight
+times their altitude.</p>
+
+<p>Yet these big trees are not so big as the gums of Australia; the
+Yellowstone Geysers are, or were, inferior to the like in New Zealand;
+and Niagara is surpassed by the Zambesi Falls, still more so by the
+waterfall in Paraguay, and infinitely so by the recently-discovered
+falls in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span> British Guiana. The Guayra Falls, on the Paran&aacute; River, in
+Paraguay, though not so high in one leap as Niagara, have twice as great
+a bulk of water, which rushes through a gorge only 200 feet wide.</p>
+
+<p>Its cities, such as San Francisco, Chicago, St Louis, New Orleans and
+others, are not as a rule beautiful; even Washington, the capital, was a
+tremendous disappointment to my expectant gaze; though my judgment might
+possibly be affected by the following incident. While standing at the
+entrance of the extremely beautiful New Union Railway Station a cab
+drove up, out of which a woman stepped, followed by a man. He hurried
+after her, and right in front of me drew a pistol and shot her dead, and
+even again fired twice into her body as she lay on the ground. Then he
+quickly but coolly put the gun to his own head and killed himself.</p>
+
+<p>This city seems badly planned and some of its great federal buildings
+are monstrous. The Pennsylvania Avenue is an eyesore and a disgrace to
+the nation. Boston, I believe, is all that it should be. Denver is a
+delightful town. New York, incomparable for its fabulous wealth, its
+unequalled shops, its magnificently and boldly-conceived office
+buildings and apartment blocks, its palatial and perfectly-appointed
+hotels, its dirty and ill-paved streets, is the marvel of the age and is
+every year becoming more so. Its<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span> growth continues phenomenal. If not
+now it will soon be the pulse of the world.</p>
+
+<p>There is never occasion in American hotels, as there is in English, in
+my own experience, to order your table waiter to go and change his
+greasy, filthy coat or to clean his finger-nails! No, in the smallest
+country hotel in the United States the proprietor knows that his guests
+actually prefer a table servant to have clean hands, a clean coat, etc.,
+and waiters in restaurants are obliged to wear thin, light and noiseless
+boots or shoes, not clodhoppers.</p>
+
+<p>That phenomenon and much-criticized individual, the American child, is
+blessed with such bright intelligence that at the age of ten he or she
+is as companionable to the "grown-up" as the youth of twenty of other
+countries, and much more interesting.</p>
+
+<p>English people are inclined to think Americans brusque and even not very
+polite. Let me assure them that they are the politest of people, though
+happily not effusive. They are also the most sympathetic and, strange as
+it may appear, the most sentimental. Their sympathy I have tested and
+experienced. Their brusqueness may arise from the fact that they have no
+time to give to formalities. But a civil question will always be civilly
+answered, and answered intelligently. Nor are Americans toadies or
+snobs; they are independent, self-reliant and self-respecting people.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X</h2>
+
+<h3>FIRST TOUR ABROAD</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Mexico&mdash;Guatemala&mdash;Salvador&mdash;Panama&mdash;Colombia&mdash;Venezuela&mdash;Jamaica&mdash;Cuba&mdash;Fire
+in Amarillo&mdash;Rebuilding.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>Among the many long trips leisure has permitted, the first was a tour
+through Mexico, Guatemala and Salvador to Panama; thence through
+Colombia and Venezuela; Jamaica and Cuba; needless to say a most
+interesting tour.</p>
+
+<p>Mexico has a most delightful climate at any time of the year, except on
+the Gulf Coast, the Tierra Caliente, where the heat in summer is
+tropical and oppressive. She has many interesting and beautiful towns.
+The city itself is rapidly becoming a handsome one, indeed an imperial
+one. Accommodation for visitors, however, leaves much to be desired. The
+country's history is of course absorbingly interesting, and the many
+remains of Aztec and older origin appeal much to one's curiosity. There
+is a capital golf-course, a great bull-ring, and a pelota court. There
+is much wealth, and every evening a fine display of carriages and
+horses. The little dogs called Perros Chinos of Mexico, also "Pelon" or
+hairless, have absolutely no hair on the body.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span> They are handsome,
+well-built little creatures, about the size of a small terrier. They are
+said to be identical with one of the Chinese edible dogs. Cortez found
+them in Mexico and Pizarro in Peru. How did they get there?
+Popocatepetl, a magnificent conical volcano, overlooks the city and
+plain. I tried to ascend it but a damaged ankle failed me. A trip to
+Oaxaca to see wonderful Mitla should not be missed. There also is the
+tree of Tuli, a cypress, said to measure 154 feet round its trunk. Also
+a trip to Orizaba city is equally interesting, if only for the view of
+the magnificent Pico de Orizaba, a gigantic and most beautiful cone
+18,000 feet high; but also for the beautiful scenery displayed in the
+descent from the high plateau of Mexico, a very sudden descent of
+several thousand feet in fifteen miles, with a railroad grade of one in
+fourteen, from a temperate climate at once into a tropical one. More
+than that, it leads you to the justly-celebrated little Hotel de France
+in Orizaba, the only good hotel in all Mexico.</p>
+
+<p>The imposing grandeur of a mountain peak depends of course greatly on
+its elevation above its base; for instance, Pike's peak, to the top of
+which I have been, is some 15,000 feet above sea-level, but only 8000
+above its base. The great peaks of the Andes likewise suffer, such as
+Volcan Misti at Arequipa, nearly 20,000 feet above the sea, but from its
+base only 12,000<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span> feet. Then imagine Orizaba peak at once soaring 16,000
+feet above the city, not one of a chain or range, but proudly standing
+alone in her radiant beauty. From Orizaba I went on to Cordova, where it
+is the custom of the citizens of all ranks and ages to assemble in the
+evenings in the plaza to engage in the game of keeno or lotto. Many
+tables are laid out for the purpose. The prizes are small, but
+apparently enough to amuse the people. Of course I joined in the game,
+happened to be very successful, and as my winnings were turned over to
+some small boys, beautiful little black-eyed rascals, my seat was soon
+surrounded by a merry crowd and great was the fun. How beautiful and
+captivating are these Spanish and even Mestizo children, the boys even
+more so than their sisters. From this point I took train, over the
+worst-built and coggliest railroad track I ever travelled on, to the
+Isthmus of Tehuantepec, to see the famous Eads Route, over which he
+proposed to transport bodily, without breaking cargo, ocean-going
+sailing ships and steamers from the Gulf to the Pacific Ocean. Also to
+visit the Tehuana tribe of Indians, whose women have the reputation of
+being the finest-looking of native races in the Western world. They wear
+a most extraordinary and unique combined headdress and shawl. In the
+markets could certainly be seen wonderfully beautiful faces, quite
+beautiful enough to justify<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span> the claim mentioned. At Rincon is the
+starting-point of the projected and begun Pan-American railroad, which
+will eventually reach to Buenos Ayres. At Salina Cruz, the Pacific end
+of the isthmus, and I should think one of the windiest places on earth,
+perhaps beating even Amarillo, I met a young American millionaire, a
+charming man who had large interests in Guatemala. We sailed together
+from Salina Cruz on a small coasting steamer bound for Panama. Except
+only at Salina Cruz, where a terrific wind blows most of the year, the
+weather was calm, but the heat very great. Not even bed-sheets were
+provided, nor were they needed. Sailing by night we made some port and
+stopping-place every day. The view of the coast is most interesting. You
+are practically never out of sight of volcanoes, some of them of great
+height and many of them active. One particularly, Santa Maria, attracted
+our attention because of its erupting regularly at intervals of half an
+hour; regularly as your watch marked the stated period a great explosion
+occurred and a cloud of smoke, steam and dust was vomited out and
+floated away slowly landwards. In the clear calm air it was a
+magnificent spectacle and I never tired watching it. Another volcanic
+peak had recently been absolutely shattered, one whole side as it were
+blown off it. On arriving at San Jos&eacute;, the port of Guatemala city, we
+had a great reception, my<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> friend being the owner of the railroad&mdash;the
+only railroad in this State. A special train took us up to the capital,
+splendidly-horsed carriages were put at our disposal, and we were
+banqueted and entertained at the Opera, my friend insisting that I
+should share in all this hospitality. The American minister joined our
+party and made himself agreeable and useful. Guatemala city was once the
+Paris of America, was rich, gay and prosperous; to-day it is&mdash;different,
+but still very interesting. You are there in a bygone world, an age of
+the past. Revolutions and inter-State wars have driven capital from the
+country; progress is at a standstill; confidence in anybody does not
+exist. As in the Central American States, "Ote toi de la que m'y mette"
+is on the standard of every ambitious general, colonel or politician. It
+is the direct cause of all the revolutions. At Corinto a lady, whom we
+became intimate with, landed for the professed purpose of "revoluting."
+Yet the country is a naturally rich one, having on the highlands a
+splendid temperate climate, and everywhere great mineral and
+agricultural resources. We were fortunate to see a parade of some of the
+State troops; and such a comical picture of military imbecility and
+inefficiency could surely not be found elsewhere. The officers swaggered
+in the gayest of uniforms; the men were shoeless, dirty and slovenly. On
+approaching the city one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span> passes near by the famous volcanoes Fuego,
+Aqua and Picaya (14,000 feet), and mysterious Lake Anatitlan.</p>
+
+<p>A shooting-trip had been arranged for us: a steam launch on the lake,
+Indians as carriers, mules, etc. etc., but my friend declined for want
+of time. Among the fauna of the country are common and black jaguars,
+tapirs, manatees, peccaries, boas, cougars or pumas, and alligators.
+Also the quetzal, the imperial bird of the great Indian Quiche race, and
+the Trogan resplendens. Poinciana regia and P. pulcherrima are common
+garden shrubs or trees, but the finest Poinciana I ever saw was in
+Honolulu. Vampire bats are more common in Nicaragua, but also exist in
+Guatemala. They have very sharp incisors and bite cattle and horses on
+the back or withers, men on the toes if exposed, and roosters on the
+comb. They live in caves, and not as the large fruit bats of India,
+which repose head downwards, hanging from trees in great colonies.
+Vampires live on blood, having no teeth suitable for mastication.</p>
+
+<p>It is a strange fact that Germans, who now have the great bulk of the
+trade throughout Central America, are very unpopular. Nor are the
+Americans popular. "Los Americanos son Bestias," "Esos Hombres son
+Demonios" express the feeling.</p>
+
+<p>I was told that in Guatemala there exists a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span> tribe of Indians which does
+not permit the use of alcoholic drink and actually pays the State
+compensation instead.</p>
+
+<p>Among other places we called at were Esquintla, Acajutla, and La
+Libertad, from which point we got a magnificent view of the Atatlan
+volcano in full activity; also at San Juan del Sur. From Leon, in
+Nicaragua, some fourteen active volcanoes can be seen. In Salvador only
+two of the eleven great volcanoes of the State are now "<i>vivo</i>," viz.,
+San Miguel and Izalco. The latter is called the Lighthouse of Salvador,
+because it explodes regularly every twenty minutes. The lesser living
+vents are called infernillos&mdash;little hells. Altogether it looks like
+Central America, as a whole, with its revolutions and its physical and
+political instability, must be a very big hell.</p>
+
+<p>Salvador, though the smallest of the Central American States, is the
+most prosperous, enterprising and densely-populated. She was the first
+to become independent and the first to defy the Church of Rome.</p>
+
+<p>It had been my intention to sail through Lake Nicaragua and down the
+river San Juan to San Juan del Norte. But accommodation at that port and
+steamer communication with Colon was so bad and irregular that the trip
+was regretfully abandoned, and I went on to Panama with my friend. This
+gentleman possessed a personal<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span> letter from President Roosevelt
+addressed to the canal officials, ordering (not begging) them to permit
+a full inspection of the works, and to tell the "truth and the whole
+truth." Consequently we saw the works under unusual and most favourable
+conditions. The Americans have made remarkable progress, assisted by
+their wonderful labour-saving appliances, chief among which are the
+100-ton shovels, the Lidgerwood car-unloaders, and the track-shifters.
+But chiefly, of course, by their sanitary methods, the protection
+afforded the employees against mosquitoes, and the abolition of mosquito
+conditions. The natives and negroes are immune to yellow fever, but not
+to malaria. As most of us know, Major Ross of the I.M.S., in 1896,
+proved the connection of malaria with the anopheles mosquito; and in
+1902 Mr Reed of the U.S. Health Commission tracked the yellow fever to
+the stegomyia mosquito. Yellow fever requires six days to develop. It
+should be noted that the stegomyia insect is common in India, but
+luckily has not yet been infected with the germ of yellow fever. And it
+may also be here mentioned that the connection between bubonic plague
+and rats, and the fleas that infest them, was discovered by the Japanese
+scientist, Kitasato.</p>
+
+<p>The history of the canal may be touched on, if only to show the American
+method of securing a desired object, certainly a quick, effective and,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span>
+after all, the only practical method. The Panama railway was built by
+Americans in 1855 to meet the rush to California gold-fields. The De
+Lesseps Company bought the road for an enormous figure, and started the
+canal works, to be abandoned later on, but again taken up by a new
+French Company. In 1901 Uncle Sam got his "fine work" in when he bluffed
+the new French Panama Company into selling it to him for 40,000,000
+dollars, simply by threatening to adopt the Nicaragua route. Yet the
+Company's property was well worth the 100,000,000 dollars asked for it.
+To carry out the bluff, the Isthmian Canal Commission (U.S.) actually
+reported to Congress that the Nicaragua route was the most "practical
+and feasible" one, when it was well known to the Commission that the
+route was so impracticable as not to be worthy of consideration. At
+least common report had it so. In 1903 Colombia refused the United
+States offer to purchase the enlarged canal zone. At once Panama
+province seceded from the State, and sold the desired zone to the United
+States for 10,000,000 dollars, conditionally on the United States
+recognizing and guaranteeing the young Republic. The deal was cleverly
+arranged, and was again perhaps the only effective method to obtain
+possession.</p>
+
+<p>The tide at Panama measures 20 feet, at Colon only 2 feet. In 1905 the
+International Board of Consulting Engineers, summoned by President<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span>
+Roosevelt, recommended, by eight to five, a sea-level canal (two locks).
+But Congress adopted the minority's 85-feet-level plan (6 locks), with
+an immense dam at Gatun, which dam will not be founded on rock, but have
+a central puddled core extending 40 feet below the bottom of the lake,
+and sheet piling some 40 feet still deeper. At least that is as I then
+understood it.</p>
+
+<p>De Lesseps was not an engineer and knew little of science. His Company's
+failure was directly due to his ignorance and disregard of the advice of
+competent men.</p>
+
+<p>Manual labour on the canal has been done mostly by Jamaica negroes. As
+said before, they are immune to yellow fever; and, speaking of the
+negro, it may be said here that his susceptibility to pain, compared to
+that of the white man, is as one to three, but the effect of a fair
+education is to increase it by one-third. What then is that of the
+monkey, the bird, the reptile or the fish? May I dare the statement,
+though most of us perhaps know it, that the sensitiveness of woman to
+that of man is as fifty-three to sixty-four. Even the woman's sense of
+touch, as in the finger-tips, being twice as obtuse as man's. The
+Bouquet D'Afrique, of course, is perceptible to us and offensive, but it
+is said that to the Indians of South America both black and white men
+are in this respect offensive. The "Foetor Judaiicus" must be noticeable
+also to have deserved the term.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>But this is sad wandering from the subject in hand and not exactly
+"reminiscences." I only hope that this and other departures, necessary
+for stuffing purposes, may be excused, especially as they are probably
+the most entertaining part of the book.</p>
+
+<p>To return to the town of Panama. In the bay and amongst the islands were
+quite a number of whales and flocks of pelicans. More curious to observe
+was an enormous number of small reddish-brown-coloured snakes, swimming
+freely on the surface of the sea, yet not seemingly heading in any
+particular direction. I could get no information regarding them. The
+famous Pearl Islands lie forty miles off Panama. The pearls are large
+and lustrous.</p>
+
+<p>On reaching harbour the health officials came on board, and to my
+surprise selected me alone among the passengers for quarantine. The
+explanation was that I had gone ashore at Corinto. So I was ordered to
+take up my abode during the period of incubation in the detention house,
+a building in an isolated position; there I was instructed, much to my
+relief, that I might go to town or anywhere else during daylight, but
+must, under severe penalty, be back and inside the protecting screens
+before the mosquitoes got to work. The object was that no mosquito after
+biting me should be able to bite anyone else. We had been some two and a
+half days out of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span> Corinto, so my period of detention was not of long
+duration. I also got infinitely better messing than any hotel in Panama
+afforded.</p>
+
+<p>The seas on either side of Darien Isthmus were at one time the scene of
+the many brave but often cruel deeds of the great adventurers and
+explorers like Drake, buccaneers like Morgan, pirates like Kidd and
+Wallace. Morgan, a Welshman, sacked and destroyed old Panama, a rich and
+palatial city, in 1670. He also captured the strong fortress town, Porto
+Bello. Drake captured the rich and important Cartagena. Captain Kidd,
+native of Greenock, was commissioned by George III. to stamp out piracy,
+but turned pirate himself and became the greatest of them all.</p>
+
+<p>It had been my intention to sail from Panama to Guayaquil, cross the
+Andes, and take canoe and steamer down the Amazon to Para. But the
+reports of yellow fever at Guayaquil, the unfinished state of the Quito
+railroad, and the disturbed state of the Trans-Andean Indians, through
+whose country there would be a week's mule ride, decided me to alter my
+plans once more. So, bidding good-bye to my very kind New York friend,
+who went home direct, I myself took steamer for a Colombian port and
+thence trained to Baranquillo, a considerable town on the Magdalena
+River. It was a novel experience to there find oneself a real live<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span>
+millionaire! The Colombian paper dollar (no coin used) was worth just
+the hundredth part of a gold dollar; so that a penny street car ride
+cost the alarming sum of five dollars, and dinner a perfectly fabulous
+amount. By Royal Mail steamer the next move was to La Guayra, the
+seaport of Caracas, a most romantic-looking place, where the mountains,
+some 9000 feet high, descend almost precipitously to the sea. There we
+saw the castle where Kingsley's Rose of Devon was imprisoned. At that
+time President Castro was so defying France that war and a French fleet
+were expected every day. Consequently his orders were that no one
+whomsoever should be allowed to enter the country. All the passengers of
+course, and for that very reason perhaps, were hoping to be allowed to
+land, if only to make the short run up to the capital and back. At
+Colon, assisted by my American friend and the United States consul, we
+"worked" the Venezuela Consul into giving me a passport (how it was done
+does not matter), which at La Guayra I, of course, produced. Of no
+avail! No one must land. But just when the steamer was about to sail a
+boat full of officials appeared at the steamer's side, called out my
+name, and lo! to the wonder of the other passengers, I was allowed to go
+ashore. This was satisfactory, and I at once took train to the capital,
+climbing or soaring as in a flying-machine the steep graded but<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span>
+excellent road (most picturesque) to Caracas. There I found that the
+Mardi Gras Carnival was just beginning. In my hotel was the war
+correspondent of the <i>New York Herald</i>, just convalescing from an attack
+of yellow fever and still incapable of active work. He was good enough
+to ask me to fill his place should hostilities ensue. No other
+correspondent was in the country and he himself had to put up a 10,000
+dollar bond. I willingly agreed, and so stayed nearly two weeks in
+Caracas awaiting eventualities. During this time, owing to the Carnival,
+the town was "wide open"; every night some twenty thousand people danced
+in the Plaza Bolivar, a huge square beautifully paved with tiling. The
+dancers were so crowded together that waltzing simply meant revolving
+top-wise. A really splendid band provided the music. What a gay, merry
+people they are! And how beautiful these Venezuela women, and how
+handsome the men! In the streets presents of great value were tossed
+from the carriages to the signoras on the balconies. At a ball the men,
+the fashionables, wore blue velvet coats, not because of the season, but
+because it is the customary male festive attire. Caracas was delightful
+and extraordinarily interesting. What splendid saddle mules one here
+sees! Castro every day appeared with his staff all mounted on mules. All
+the traffic of the country is done with them, there being no feasible<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span>
+wagon roads. Castro had a most evil reputation. The people hated but
+feared him. His whole army consisted of Andean Indians, and he himself
+had Indian blood in his veins. The climate at Caracas is delightful.
+After two weeks and nothing developing, and not feeling quite well, I
+returned to La Guayra and took steamer back to Colon. Feeling worse on
+the steamer I called in the doctor, and was greatly alarmed when he
+pronounced yellow fever. On arriving at Colon, of course, I was not
+permitted to land so had to continue on the ship to Jamaica. The attack
+must have been a very mild one, as when we reached Jamaica I was nearly
+all right again.</p>
+
+<p>Jamaica is a beautiful island with a delightful winter climate. Also
+very good roads. Among other places visited was Constant Spring Hotel,
+once the plantation residence and property of one of my uncles. At Port
+Antonio, on the north side of the island, is a very fine up-to-date
+American hotel, which of course was greatly appreciated after the vile
+caravanserais of Central America. Thence on to Cuba, the steamer passing
+through the famous narrows leading to Santiago. A pleasant daylight
+railroad run through the whole island brought me to the great city of
+Havana, not, as it appeared to me, a handsome or attractive city, but
+possessing a good climate and a polite and agreeable population. The
+principal shopping street in Havana is so narrow that awnings can be,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span>
+and are, stretched completely across it. In the centre of the harbour
+was visible the wreck of the United States battleship <i>Maine</i>. Here in
+Havana, on calling at the Consulate for letters, or rather for
+cablegrams, as I had instructed my Amarillo agent not to write but to
+cable, and only in the case of urgent consequence, I found a message
+awaiting me. No need to open it therefore to know the contents! Yes, my
+building had been burnt to the ground two months ago. A cable to Caracas
+had not been delivered to me. So, back to Amarillo to view the ruins. In
+the United States of America one cannot insure for the full value of a
+building; or at least only three-quarters can be recovered. So my loss
+amounted to 8000 or 10,000 dollars. But no need of repining, and time is
+money, especially in such a case. So a new building was at once started,
+rushed and completed, in almost record time.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI</h2>
+
+<h3>SECOND TOUR ABROAD</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Bermudas&mdash;Switzerland&mdash;Italy&mdash;Monte
+Carlo&mdash;Algiers&mdash;Morocco&mdash;Spain&mdash;Biarritz and Pau.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>In November 1907 I again left Amarillo bound for Panama and the Andes.
+But the only steamer offering from New Orleans was so small, and the
+messing arrangements so primitive, that I abandoned the idea, railed to
+New York, saw a steamer starting for the Bermudas and joined her. For
+honeymoon and other trips the Bermudas are a favourite resort of New
+Yorkers. Fourteen honeymoon couples were reckoned to be on board. The
+climate of these islands is very delightful. The hotels are quite good;
+English society pretty much confined to the Army and Navy; two
+golf-courses; the best of bathing, boating and sea-fishing. The Marine
+Aquarium is most interesting. The roads are good and not a motor-car in
+the land!</p>
+
+<p>The islands are composed solely of coralline limestone. It can be
+quarried almost anywhere. Blasting is not necessary, the stone being so
+soft that it can be sawn out in blocks of any size to meet the
+architect's needs. It is beautifully white and hardens after exposure.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>After staying two weeks I returned to New York and took passage to
+Cherbourg, crossed France to Lausanne, saw some friends and then went on
+to St Moritz, which we all know is so famous for its wonderful winter
+climate, intensely cold but clear skies and bright sunshine. Curling,
+hockey, skiing, tobogganing and bobbing were in full swing; the splendid
+hotels crowded; dinners and dances every day. A very jolly place indeed.
+After ten days' stay a sledge took me over the mountains to Chiavenna,
+thence steamer over the lake to Como, and train to Milan. It was very
+cold and foggy there, but the city is a handsome one; I saw the
+Cathedral, the arcade, etc., and visited the famous Scala Opera House
+and its wonderful ballet. Thence to Genoa&mdash;very cold&mdash;and on to Monte
+Carlo, at once entering a balmy, delicious climate. The season was just
+beginning, but the play-rooms were pretty full. With its splendid shops,
+fine hotels, gardens, Casino, pigeon-shooting, etc. etc., Monte Carlo is
+unrivalled. It is distinctly a place to wear "clothes," and the women's
+costumes in the play-rooms and Casino are enough to make the marrying
+man think twice.</p>
+
+<p>After visiting Monaco, Nice and Cannes, at Marseilles I took steamer to
+Algiers. Barring its agreeable winter climate there is not much
+attraction there. Here I was told that the marriageable Jewess is kept
+in a dark room, fed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span> on rich foods and allowed no exercise; treated, in
+fact, as a goose for a fat liver.</p>
+
+<p>So I went on to Blida, where is a French Army Remount Depot. A large
+number of beautiful Arab horses were being inspected and shown by their
+picturesque owners. They were not the type for cow-ponies and seemed a
+bit light for cavalry purposes. From Blida I went by train to Oran, a
+considerable port in Algiers. There was nothing particular to see or do
+except visit a certain Morocco chief who had started the late troubles
+at Fez and was here in durance vile (chains). Among the few tourists I
+met a Hungarian and his English wife and we became fairly intimate. His
+wife told me he was the dread of her life, being scorching mad on
+motor-cars. It happened there was one and only one car in the town for
+hire, and the Baron must needs hire it and invite me, with his wife, to
+a trip up a certain hill or mountain overlooking the city. A holy man,
+or marabout, denned on the top and we must pay our respects. The road
+proved to be exceedingly steep, and zigzagged in a remarkable way, with
+very sharp, angular turns. No car had ever been up it, and few
+carriages. We reached the top in due time, saluted the old man and
+started back. My friend was at the wheel and did a few turns all right,
+till we came to a straight shoot, very narrow, a ditch on one side,
+trees on the other, and just here<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span> the brake refused to work. Reaching
+over I touched his shoulder and suggested that he should go slower. No
+reply; he was speechless, and we knew at once that he had lost control,
+and realized our horrible position. On we rushed, he guiding it straight
+all right, till we approached the bend, the worst on the road, and quite
+impossible to manipulate at great speed. Right in front was an unguarded
+cliff, with a drop of 500 feet over practically a precipice. But&mdash;well,
+there was no "terrible accident" to be reported. Most fortunately a pile
+of rocks had been accumulated for the purpose of building a parapet
+wall, and on to the top of this pile the car jumped and lodged, without
+even turning over. The jar and shock were bad enough, but no one was
+much hurt. It reminded me of another occasion when I got a jar of a
+different kind. Once, after playing golf with a man in America, he
+offered to drive me to town in his motor-car. Knowing him to be a
+scorcher I excused myself by saying that I was not ready to go. He
+started; very soon afterwards word came back that he had run into a
+telegraph post and killed himself and his driver. Such things tend to
+cool one's motor ambition.</p>
+
+<p>At Oran I boarded a small French steamer for Mellilla, in Spanish
+Morocco, a Spanish convict station and a considerable military post.
+This was just before Spain's recent Riff Campaign.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span> The table fare on
+the steamer was not British! Cuttle-fish soup or stew was prominent on
+the bill; a huge dish of snails was always much in demand, and the other
+delicacies were not tempting, to me at least. Eggs, always eggs! How
+often in one's travels does one have to resort to them. In Mellilla
+itself there was no hotel. We messed at the strangest restaurant it was
+ever my ill-luck to enter. The troops reminded me somewhat of those of
+Guatemala, slovenly, slouching, and poorly dressed. Their officers were
+splendid in gold braid, feathers and gaudy uniforms. Around the town
+were circular block-houses, beyond which even then no one was allowed to
+go. Indeed, mounted tribesmen could be seen sometimes riding up to the
+line and flourishing their guns in apparent defiance. Curiosity made me
+venture forward till warned back by the guard. These Riffians were
+certainly picturesque-looking rascals. Mellilla was then not on the
+tourist's track, so was all the more interesting and novel.</p>
+
+<p>From there by steamer to Gibraltar, stopping at Ceuta on the way. At
+Gibraltar a friend, Capt. B&mdash;&mdash;, took me all over the rock, the
+galleries, and certain fortifications. A meeting of hounds near
+Algeciras was attended. Thence by train to Granada to visit the
+marvellously lovely Alhambra, and of course to meet the King of the
+Gipsies; Ronda, romantic and picturesque;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span> Cordova and its immense
+mosque and old Roman bridge; and so on to Madrid by a most comfortable
+and fast train; but the temperature all through Central Spain is
+extremely cold in winter. The country is inhospitable-looking, and the
+natives seem to have abandoned their picturesque national dress. One
+must now go to Mexico to see the cavalier in his gay and handsome
+costume. In Madrid I of course visited the splendid Armoury; also the
+National Art Gallery with its Velasquezs and Murillos. From Madrid to
+San Sebastian, the season not yet begun, and Biarritz. Here I spent a
+most enjoyable month: dry, bracing climate, good golf-course, good
+hotels, etc. It was the English season; the Spanish season being in
+summer. On King Edward's arrival with his entourage and fashionable
+followers golf became impossible, so I went on to Pau and played there.
+From Pau a short run took me to Lourdes, with its grotto, chapel, etc.
+From Pau to Bordeaux, a handsome, busy town. Then Paris and home.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII</h2>
+
+<h3>THIRD TOUR ABROAD</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Salt Lake City&mdash;Canada&mdash;Vancouver&mdash;Hawaii&mdash;Fiji&mdash;Australia&mdash;New
+Zealand&mdash;Tasmania&mdash;Summer at Home.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>The fall of 1908 saw me off on a tour which finally took me round the
+world. Space will only permit of its itinerary and a few of my
+impressions and experiences. From Amarillo I trained north to Salt Lake
+City, passing through the wonderful gorge of the Arkansas River and the
+ca&ntilde;on of the Grand; scenery extremely wild and impressive. At Salt Lake
+found a large, busy, up-to-date city. Visited the tabernacle, and heard
+the great organ, the largest in the world; and a very fine choir. The
+acoustics of this immense and peculiarly-shaped building are most
+perfect. The Temple Gentiles are not allowed to enter. Outside the
+irrigation limits the country has a most desolate, desert, hopeless
+aspect. What nerve the Mormons had to penetrate to such a spot.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p>
+
+<p>It may be noted here that one Sidney Rigdon was the compiling genius of
+Mormonism; and it was he who concocted the Mormon Bible, not Joe<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span> Smith.
+And what a concoction! No greater fraud was ever perpetrated.</p>
+
+<p>Hence by Butte, Montana, the great copper-mining city, to Great Falls,
+where we crossed the Missouri River, there 4000 miles from the sea, yet
+twice as large as the Thames at Windsor. On entering Canadian territory
+a remarkable change in the character of the people, the towns and the
+Press was at once noticeable. From Calgary by the C.P.R. the trip
+through the Selkirk range to Vancouver was one of continuous wonder and
+delight&mdash;noble peaks, dense pine forests, rushing rivers and peaceful
+lakes. Arrived at Vancouver city, a city of illimitable ambition and
+bright prospects. I there met in the lobby of the hotel two very old
+friends whom I had not seen for many years. They dined with me, or
+rather wined and dined, and we afterwards spent a probably uproarious
+evening. I say probably, because the end was never evident to me till I
+woke up in my bed, whither someone had carried me, with my stockinged
+foot burning in a candle; another such illuminant had been lighted and
+placed at my head. My waking (and I was "waked" in two senses)
+endangered, and at the same time prevented, the probable burning down of
+the building. Next morning I was taken suddenly ill, but not due to the
+evening's carousal, so went across the bay to Victoria and hunted up<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span> a
+doctor, who immediately ordered me into hospital (the Victoria Jubilee)
+and operated on me the very same day. The operation was the most painful
+that I have ever undergone but was entirely successful, though it
+detained me in the hospital for over a month.</p>
+
+<p>From Victoria I trained to San Francisco, passing through lovely
+Washington and Oregon States, and Northern California; and from San
+Francisco took steamer to Honolulu. San Francisco was rising from its
+ashes, but still presented a terrible aspect, and gave a good idea of
+how appalling the catastrophe must have been. At Honolulu I spent a most
+enjoyable two weeks, golfing a little, surf riding, etc. The climate is
+ideal, hotels are good, parts of the islands lovely. They are all
+volcanic, and indeed some are nothing but an agglomeration of defunct
+craters.</p>
+
+<p>On one of the islands, Maui, is the largest crater on earth (unless
+perhaps a certain one in Japan), its dimensions being 2000 feet in
+depth, eight miles wide, and situated on the top of a mountain,
+Haleakala, 10,000 feet high. Its surface, seen from the rock-rim,
+exactly resembles that of the moon. I of course also visited the largest
+island of the group&mdash;Hawaii&mdash;passing <i>en route</i> Molokai, the leper
+settlement. Hawaii has two very high volcanic mountains, Mauna Kea and
+Mauna Loa, some 13,000 feet. The land is very prolific, the soil
+consisting of pulverized lava<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span> and volcanic dust, whose extreme
+fertility is due to a triple proportion of phosphates and nitrogen. On
+the slope of Mauna Loa is the crater of Kilauea, and in its centre the
+"pit," called Haleamaumau, the most awe-inspiring and in other ways the
+most remarkable volcano in the world. Landing at Hilo, by train and
+stage we went to see it. My visit was made at night when the
+illumination is greatest. Traversing the huge crater, four miles in
+diameter, the surface devoid of all vegetation, seamed and cracked, and
+in places steam issuing from great fissures, we suddenly arrived at the
+brink of the famous pit, and what an astonishing sight met our gaze! The
+sheer walls of the circular pit were some 200 feet deep: the diameter of
+the pit one quarter of a mile: the contents a mass of (not boiling, for
+what could the temperature be!) restless, seething, molten, red-hot
+lava, rising from the centre and spreading to the sides, where its waves
+broke against the walls like ocean billows, being a most brilliant red
+in colour! Flames and yet not flames. Now and then geysers of fire would
+burst through the surface, shoot into the air and fall back again. The
+sight was to some people too awful for prolonged contemplation, myself
+feeling relieved as from a threat when returning to the hotel, but still
+with a desire to go back and again gaze into that awful maelstrom. The
+surface of the pit is not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span> stationary, at one time being, as then, sunk
+200 feet; another time flush with the brim and threatening destruction;
+and again almost disappearing out of sight. At any time and in whatever
+condition it is an appalling spectacle and one never to be forgotten.</p>
+
+<p>Sugar and pineapples are the main products of the islands; but one
+should not miss visiting the aquarium at Honolulu to see the collection
+of beautiful and even comical-looking native fishes; some of extravagant
+colouring, brilliant as humming-birds, gay as butterflies; of shapes
+unsuspected, and in some cases indescribable, having neither length nor
+breadth, depth nor thickness; hard to distinguish head from tail, upside
+from underside; speed being apparently the least desirable of
+characteristics. Do they depend for protection and safety on their
+grotesque appearance? or do their gaudy robes disarm and enchant their
+ferocious and cannibalistic brethren?</p>
+
+<p>One of the funniest sights I ever saw was a base-ball game played here
+between Chinese and Japanese youngsters. What a commanding position
+these islands occupy in ocean navigation, as a coaling or naval station,
+or as a distributing point. America was quick to realize this; and now
+splendid harbours and docks are being constructed, and the place
+strongly fortified so as to rival Gibraltar.</p>
+
+<p>In January 1909 I joined the new and delightful New Zealand Steamship
+Company's steamer<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span> <i>Makura</i> bound for Sydney. On board was, amongst a
+very agreeable company, a gentleman bound for New Zealand on a
+fishing-trip, who told me such marvellous tales of his fishing prowess
+in Scotland that I put him down for one of the biggest liars on earth.
+More of him afterwards. Also on board was a young English peer, Earl
+S&mdash;&mdash;, a very agreeable man, whose company I continued to enjoy for the
+greater part of this tour. We had a delightful passage, marred for me,
+however, by a severe attack of neuritis, which continued for three solid
+months, the best doctors in Sydney and Melbourne failing to give relief.
+Our ship first called at Fanning Island, a cable station (delivering
+four months' mail), a mere coral atoll with its central lagoon, fringe
+of cocoanut trees and reef. The heavy swell breaking on the reef, and
+the wonderful blue of the water, the peaceful lagoon, the bright, clear
+sky, and the cocoanut trees, formed a picture never to be forgotten. A
+picture typical of all the many thousands of such Pacific islets. After
+passing the Union and Wallace groups we crossed the 180&deg; meridian, and
+so lost a day, Sunday being no Sunday but Monday. Then arrived at Suva,
+Fiji Islands. The rainy season having just begun it was very hot and
+disagreeable. The Fijians are Papuans, but tall and not bad-looking.
+Maoris, Hawaiians and Samoans are Polynesians, a much handsomer race.
+The Fijians were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span> remarkable for their quick conversion to devout
+Christianity. So late as 1870 cannibalism was general. Prisoners were
+deliberately fattened to kill. The dead were even dug up when in such a
+condition that only puddings could be made of them. Limbs were cut off
+living victims and cooked in their presence; and even more horrible acts
+were committed. The islands are volcanic, mountainous, and covered by
+forests.</p>
+
+<p>Our visit was about the time of the Balolo worm season. The Balolo worm
+appears on the coast punctually twice a year, once in October (the
+Little Balolo) and once about the 20th November (the Great Balolo). They
+rise to the sea surface in writhing masses, only stay twelve hours and
+are gone. The natives make a great feast of them. The worm measures 2
+ins. to 2 ft. long, is thin as vermicelli and has many legs. Never is a
+single worm seen at any other time.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving Fiji, we passed the Isle of Pines, called at Brisbane, and
+arrived at Sydney on the 25th November. Of the beauties and advantages
+of Sydney Harbour we have all heard, and I can only endorse the glowing
+descriptions of other writers. Hotels in Australia and New Zealand are
+very poor, barring perhaps one in Sydney and a small one in Melbourne. A
+great cricket match was "on"&mdash;Victoria versus New South Wales&mdash;so I must
+needs go to see, not so much the game itself as the very famous club<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span>
+ground, said to be the finest in the world. In the Botanical Gardens,
+near a certain tree, the familiar, and I thought the unmistakable, odour
+of a skunk was most perceptible. Hailing a gardener and drawing his
+attention to it, he replied that the smell came from the tree ("malotus"
+he called it), but the crushed leaves, the bark and the blossom
+certainly gave no sign of it and I remained mystified. Fruit of many
+kinds is cheap, abundant and good. Sydney is not a prohibition town! Far
+from it. Drink conditions are as bad as in Scotland. Many of the people,
+especially from the country, have a pure Cockney accent and drop their
+h's freely; indeed I met boys and girls born in the colony, and never
+out of it, whose Cockney pronunciation was quite comical. It struck me
+that Australians and New Zealanders are certainly not noted for
+strenuousness.</p>
+
+<p>Of course the tourist must see the Blue Mountains, and my trip there was
+enjoyable enough, I being greatly impressed with the Leura and other
+waterfalls (not as falls) and the wonderful and beautiful caves of
+Janolan. Wild wallabies were plentiful round about, and the "laughing
+jackass" first made himself known to me.</p>
+
+<p>February 2nd.&mdash;S&mdash;&mdash; and myself took passage to New Zealand, the
+fish-story man being again a fellow-traveller. During the crossing
+numerous albatrosses were seen. In New Zealand we visited all the great
+towns, Wellington,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span> Auckland, Christchurch, Dunedin and others, all of
+them pleasant, agreeable places, Christchurch being especially
+attractive. What a grand, healthy, well-fed and physically fit-looking
+people the New Zealanders are. Scotch blood predominates, and really
+there is a great similarity between the two peoples. At Rotorua we met
+the Premier and other celebrities, S&mdash;&mdash; being very interested in
+Colonial politics. Rotorua is a very charming place; I did some fishing
+in the lake, where trout were so numerous that it was not much sport
+catching them. Illness unfortunately prevented my going further afield
+and fishing for larger trout in the rivers. A Colonel M&mdash;&mdash; and sister
+who were in New Zealand at that time claimed to have beaten the record,
+their catch averaging over 20 lbs. per fish (rainbows), as they told me
+on again meeting them in the Hebrides. We did the Wanganui River of
+course; and the geysers at Whakarewarewa, under the charge of Maggie,
+the Maori guide.</p>
+
+<p>As you no doubt are aware, the Maori fashion of salutation is to rub
+noses together. As long as they are pretty noses there cannot be much
+objection; but some of the Maori girls are themselves so pretty that
+mere rubbing is apt to degenerate and one's nose is liable to slip out
+of place. Maggie, the Maori guide, a very pretty woman and now at
+Shepherd's Bush, can tell all about it and even give a demonstration.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Here in Whakarewarewa one is impressed with the fact that this little
+settlement is built on what is a mere shallow crust, under which, at the
+depth of only a few feet, is a vast region of boiling mud and water.
+Everywhere around are bubbling and spluttering mud-wells, some in the
+form of miniature geysers; steam is issuing everywhere from clefts and
+crannies in the ground; and one almost expects a general upheaval or
+sinking of the whole surface. The principal geyser was not and had not
+been for some weeks in action. It can be forced into action, however, by
+the singular method of dropping a bar of soap down the orifice, when a
+tremendous rush of steam and water is vomited out with terrific force.
+Sir Joseph Ward, the Premier, is the only person authorized to permit
+this operation: but though he was at our hotel, and we were personally
+intimate with him, he declined to favour us with the permission, it
+being explained that the too-frequent dosing of the geyser had seemed to
+have a relaxing effect on the activity.</p>
+
+<p>At Dunedin S&mdash;&mdash; left me to visit Milford Sound. Too unwell to accompany
+him, I continued on to the Bluff and then took steamer to Hobart,
+Tasmania. New Zealand has a great whale-fishery and it was my hope to
+see something of it by a short trip on one of the ships employed; but
+the opportunity did not present itself.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>May I here offer a few notes picked up on the subject of whales, etc.
+The sperm or cachalot whale is a dangerous and bold fighter and is
+perhaps the most interesting of all cetaceans. His skin, like that of
+the porpoise, is as thin as gold-beaters' leaf. Underneath it is a
+coating of fine hair or fur, not attached to the skin, and then the
+blubber. He has enormous teeth or tushes in the lower jaw, but has no
+baleen. He devours very large fish, even sharks, but his principal food
+seems to be cuttle-fish and squids, some of them of as great bulk as
+himself. These cuttle-fish's tentacle discs are as big as soup-plates,
+and surrounded by hooks as large and sharp as tiger claws; while their
+mouths are armed with a parrot-like beak capable of rending anything
+held to them by the tentacles. These disc hooks are often found in
+ambergris, an excretion of the sperm whale. The sperm whale spouts
+diagonally, other whales upwards. So-called porpoise leather is made of
+the skin of the white whale. The porpoise is the true dolphin, the
+sailor's dolphin being a fish with vertical tail, scales and gills.
+Bonitoes are a species of mackerel, but warm-blooded and having
+beef-like flesh.</p>
+
+<p>Near Hobart I saw the famous fruit and hop lands on the Derwent River.
+It was midsummer here and extremely hot, hotter than in Melbourne or
+anywhere else on this trip. From Hobart<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span> I railed to Launceston and
+thence steamer to Melbourne.</p>
+
+<p>Melbourne is a very handsome city as we all know. It was my hope to
+continue on with S&mdash;&mdash; north by the Barrier Reef, or rather between the
+reef and the mainland, and so on to China, Japan, Corea, and home by
+Siberia; but my doctor advised me not to attempt it, so I booked passage
+for Colombo instead, and S&mdash;&mdash; and myself necessarily parted. But it was
+with much regret that I missed this wonderful coasting trip, long looked
+forward to and now probably never to be accomplished. On my way home I
+visited beautiful Adelaide, and the younger city, Perth, which reminded
+me much of the West American mining towns. Colombo needs no call for
+notice. At Messina we saw the ruined city, the devastation seeming to
+have been very terrible; but it presented no such awful spectacle of
+absolutely overwhelming destruction as did San Francisco. Etna was
+smoking; Stromboli also. Then Marseilles, Paris, and home.</p>
+
+<p>During that summer at home I was fortunate enough to see the polo test
+matches between Hurlingham and Meadowbrook teams, otherwise England
+versus America. It was a disheartening spectacle. The English could
+neither drive a ball with accuracy nor distance; they "dwelt" at the
+most critical time, were slow in getting off,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span> overran the ball, and in
+fact were beaten with ease, as they deserved to be.</p>
+
+<p>An even more interesting experience was a visit to the aviation meeting
+at Rheims, the first ever held in the world, and a most successful one.
+Yet the British Empire was hardly represented even by visitors. Such
+great filers as Curtis, Lefevre, Latham, Paulhan, Bleriot and Farman
+were all present.</p>
+
+<p>In the autumn I had a week's salmon-fishing at Garynahine in the Lews.
+The weather was not favourable and the sport poor considering the place.
+Close by is the Grimersta river and lodge, perhaps the finest rod salmon
+fishery in Scotland. A young East Indian whom I happened to know had a
+rod there, and was then at the lodge. On asking him about fishing, etc.,
+he told me, and showed me by the lodge books, that the record for this
+river was fifty-four salmon in one day to one rod, all caught by the
+fly! The fortunate fisherman's name? Mr Naylor! the very man I had
+travelled with to New Zealand! I have vainly tried for three seasons now
+to get a rod on this river, if only for a week, and at &pound;30 a week that
+would be long enough for me. I also this autumn had a rod on the Dee,
+but only fished twice; no fish and no water. During this summer I golfed
+very determinedly, buoyed up by the vain hope of becoming a first-class
+player&mdash;a "scratch" man. Alas! alas!<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span> but it is all vanity anyway! What
+does the angler care for catching a large basket of trout if there be no
+one by to show them to? And what does the golfer care about his game if
+he have not an opponent or a crowd to witness his prowess? At Muirfield
+I enjoyed the amateur championship&mdash;R. Maxwell's year.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> <i>See</i> Appendix.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII</h2>
+
+<h3>FOURTH TOUR ABROAD</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Yucatan&mdash;Honduras&mdash;Costa
+Rica&mdash;Panama&mdash;Equador&mdash;Peru&mdash;Chile&mdash;Argentina&mdash;Brazil&mdash;Teneriffe.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>October 1909 saw me on board the steamer <i>Lusitania</i>, bound for New York
+and another long trip somewhere. What a leviathan! What luxury! Think of
+the Spanish dons who crossed the same ocean in mere cobble boats of
+fifty tons, and our equally intrepid discoverers and explorers. What
+methods did they adopt to counteract the discomfort of <i>mal de mer</i>?
+Which reminds me that on this same <i>Lusitania</i> was the Viscomte D&mdash;&mdash;,
+Portuguese Ambassador or Minister to the United States of America, who
+confidentially told me that he at one time was the worst of sailors, but
+since adopting a certain belt which supports the diaphragm the idea of
+sea-sickness never even suggests itself to him. For the public benefit
+it may be said that this belt is manufactured by the Anti Mal de Mer
+Belt Co., National Drug and Chemical Co., St Gabriel Street, Montreal,
+Canada. Bad sailors take note! On this steamer were also, as honoured
+guests, Jim Jeffries, the redoubtable, going to his doom; "Tay Pay"
+O'Connor; and Kessler, the "freak"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span> Savoy Hotel dinner-giver; also, by
+the way, a certain London Jew financier, who gave me a commission to go
+to and report on the Quito railroad.</p>
+
+<p>When travelling west from New York in the fall one is filled with
+admiration for the wonderful colour of the maple and other trees. Europe
+has nothing at all comparable. This wonderful display is alone worth
+crossing the Atlantic to see.</p>
+
+<p>I found that the past summer had been a record hot one for Texas. The
+thermometer went to 115&deg; in the shade. Eggs were cooked (fried, it is to
+be supposed) on the side-walk, and popcorn popped in the stalks. In
+November I sailed from New Orleans for Yucatan to visit at Merida a
+Mexican friend, who turned out to be the King of Yucatan, as he was
+popularly called, he being an immense landed proprietor and practically
+monopolist of the henequin industry. Henequin, or Sisal hemp, is the
+fibre of <i>Agave Sisalensis</i>, a plant very like the <i>Agave Americana</i>,
+from which pulque is extracted. Thence round the corner, so to speak, to
+British Honduras, where we called in at Belize, whose trade is in
+mahogany and chicklee gum, combined with a deal of quiet smuggling done
+with the Central American States. Quite near Belize, among the
+innumerable islands and reefs, was the stronghold of the celebrated
+pirate Wallace (Scotchman). Many man-o'-war birds and pelicans were in
+the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span> harbour. From Belize to Porto Barrios, the eastern terminus of the
+Guatemala railway. Here we are close to the scene of that wonderful and
+mysterious Central American prehistoric civilization, which has left for
+our antiquarians and learned men a life-work to decipher the still dumb
+symbols carved on its stupendous ruins. In Guatemala, and near this
+railway, are Copan and Quirigu&aacute;, and probably other still undiscovered
+dead cities. Some of these Guatemala structures show a quite
+extraordinary resemblance to those at Angkor in Cambodia. Mitla and
+Palenque are in Mexico and are equally remarkable. The latter is still
+difficult to get to. Here again (Palenque) the temple shows a strange
+similarity to that at Boro Budoer in Java. Was it Stamford Raffles who
+said that, as far as the expenditure of human labour and skill goes, the
+pyramids of Egypt sink into insignificance when compared with this
+sculptured temple of Boro Budoer. Chichen-Itza, Labna, Sayil and Uxmal
+are all in Yucatan and approached from Merida. How many more of such
+very wonderful ruins are still hidden in the dense jungle of these
+countries it will be many years yet before we may know. Some I have seen
+myself, and it is still my hope very soon to visit others.</p>
+
+<p>Among the wild animals of Yucatan and Honduras are the jaguar (<i>Felis
+on&ccedil;a</i>) with spots, ocellated or eyed; and the panther (<i>Felis<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span>
+concolor</i>) called puma in Arizona; the vaca de aqua or manatee, shaped
+like a small whale but with two paddles; the howling monkey, largest in
+America, and the spider monkey; the iguana, largest land lizard known to
+history, and alligators. Alligators are confined to the Western
+Hemisphere; crocodiles were supposed to be peculiar to the East, but
+lately a true crocodile (<i>Crocodilus Americanus</i>) has been identified in
+Florida. The alligator covers its eggs with a heap of rubbish for warmth
+and so leaves them; the African crocodile, on the contrary, buries them
+in the sand and then sits over them. The cardinal bird and the ocellated
+turkey must not be forgotten. Here may be found the leaf-cutting ants,
+which store the leaf particles in order to grow a fungus on, and which
+they are very particular shall be neither too damp nor too dry. Also
+another ant, the <i>Polyergus Rufescens</i>, a pure slave-hunter, absolutely
+dependent on its slaves for all the comforts of life and being even fed
+by them.</p>
+
+<p>In Honduras there are many Caribs, still a strong race of Indians,
+having a strict and severe criminal law of their own. They are employed
+mostly as mahogany cutters, and are energetic, intelligent and
+thoroughly reliable workmen. Puerto Cortez in Honduras has the finest
+harbour on the whole Atlantic coast of Central America.</p>
+
+<p>Note.&mdash;St Thomas is supposed to have visited<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span> and civilized the Central
+American Indians, as Quetzalcohuatl did in Mexico.</p>
+
+<p>On leaving New Orleans it had been my intention to enter Nicaragua and
+report to a certain New Orleans newspaper on the conditions in that most
+distressful country; said paper having commissioned me to do so.
+Entrance to the State could only be made from Guatemala, but that
+country's consul in New Orleans refused to issue the necessary passport.
+Had I gone as an Englishman, and not as an American, there might have
+been no difficulty. As said before, Central American States have a dread
+and suspicion of Yankees. This was at the time that two Yankee
+revolutionists had been shot by the President of Nicaragua.</p>
+
+<p>The next place of call was Limon, the port of Costa Rica. Every foot of
+land on these coasts, suitable for the growth of bananas, has been
+bought up by the great American Fruit Co., a company of enormous
+resources and great enterprise. Limon is a delightful little town from
+whence the railway runs to San Jos&eacute;, the capital, which stands some 4000
+feet above sea-level. Costa Rica is a peace-loving little state,
+prosperous, and enjoying a delightful climate. Much coffee and cocoa is
+grown, shaded by the Bois immortel or madre de Cacao. The live-stock
+industry is also a large one, and the animals seen on the high grassy
+plains are well grown<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span> and apparently well bred enough. I visited
+Cartago, a city which soon afterwards was destroyed by an earthquake.</p>
+
+<p>On the railroad trip up to and back from the capital we passed through
+lovely and romantic scenery, high hills, deep ravines and virgin
+tropical forest. The rainy season was at its height, and how it rained!
+The river was a raging torrent, and from the railway "cut" alongside
+continuous land-slides of loose gravelly soil were threatening the track
+with demolition. Indeed, at some points this had actually occurred, and
+the train several times had to be stopped to allow the gangs of workmen
+to clear the way. A bad slide, had it hit the train, would have pushed
+the whole thing into the deep and turbulent river. All the passengers
+were much alarmed, and I stood on the car platform ready to jump, though
+the jump would necessarily have been into the seething water.</p>
+
+<p>November 27th.&mdash;Colon once more! Went on to Panama. The Chagres River
+was in the highest state of flood known in twenty years.</p>
+
+<p>November 30th.&mdash;Sailed on steamship <i>Chile</i> with about thirty
+passengers, all Spanish Americans, bound for Equador, Peru or Chile.</p>
+
+<p>December 3rd.&mdash;Reached the Equator, and I donned warmer clothes. We saw
+whales, sharks, porpoises, rays and thrashers. Entered the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span> Guayaquil
+River. Here was where Pizarro first landed and obtained a footing. The
+steamer anchored in quarantine a mile below the city. Yellow fever was
+raging as usual, and the Quito railroad was blocked by the
+revolutionists, so my projected visit again for the second time fell
+through. Guayaquil has the highest permanent death-rate of all cities.
+The state produces much cocoa and mangrove wood. The town is the centre
+of the Panama hat trade, which hats are made of the sheaths of the
+unexpanded leaves of the jaraca palm, or of the long sheaths protecting
+the flower-cone of the hat palm (<i>taquilla</i>); and they can only be made
+in a favourable damp atmosphere. Here on the mangrove roots and
+submerged branches enormous quantities of oysters may be found. Oysters
+on trees at last! Belonging to Equador State are the Galapagos Islands,
+500 miles westward. Of course we did not visit them, but they are
+remarkable for their giant tortoises and their wild cattle, donkeys and
+dogs. It is said that these dogs do not bark, having forgotten how to;
+but they develop the power after contact with domestic ones. The
+Guayaquil River swarms with alligators, but luckily the alligator never
+attacks man.</p>
+
+<p>We sailed south down the coast, calling at many ports. From Guayaquil
+south to Valparaiso, a distance of 2000 miles, we enjoyed bright, clear
+weather, a pleasant, sometimes an even too low<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span> temperature, and
+peaceful seas, a condition which the captain assured me was constant,
+the low temperature being due to the South Polar or Humboldt current.
+The absolute barren condition of this whole coast is also indirectly due
+to this current, the temperature of the sea being so much below that of
+the land that evaporation and condensation do not take place. After
+passing some guano islands on December 9th we landed at Callao, the port
+of Lima. Went on to Lima, a city founded by Pizarro, and once a very
+gay, luxurious and licentious capital. It is celebrated for its handsome
+churches. Its streets are narrow and the whole population seemingly
+devoted to peddling lottery tickets. There are many Chinamen amongst its
+150,000 inhabitants. The Roman Catholics control the country, which is
+absolutely priest-ridden, Reformed or other churches not being permitted
+in Peru. A revolution was attempted only a few days ago, the President
+having been seized and dragged out of his office to be shot. The
+military, however, rescued him and the revolution was over in
+twenty-four hours. Peru's resources, outside of the very rich mining
+districts, will eventually be found in the Monta&ntilde;a country, on the lower
+eastern slopes of the Andes. Her people are backward, and, at least in
+Cuzco and Arequipa, I should say the dirtiest in the world. There is as
+yet little or no tourist traffic on this coast;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span> and there will not be
+much till better steamers are put on and hotels improved. In Lima,
+however, the Hotel Maury is quite good, though purely Spanish. It never
+rains on this coast, yet Lima is foggy and cold.</p>
+
+<p>I took a trip up to Oroya over the wonderful Meiggs railway. M. Meiggs
+was an American, who had to leave his country on account of certain
+irregularities. We reached a height of 16,000 feet, the country being
+absolutely barren and devoid of vegetation, but very grand and imposing.</p>
+
+<p>December 16th.&mdash;Sailed from Callao for Mollendo, calling at Pisco. Here,
+close to the harbour, are wonderful guano islands, on two of which were
+dense solid masses of birds covering what seemed to be hundreds of acres
+of ground. How many millions or billions must there have been! And yet,
+it being the evening, millions more were flighting home to the islands.
+With glasses they could be seen in continuous files coming from all
+directions. These birds are principally cormorants and pelicans. There
+are also very many seals, and we saw some whales. These islands
+presented one of the most marvellous sights I ever saw. And what
+enormous, still undeveloped, fisheries there must be here to support
+this bird-life. To-day we also passed a field of "Red Sea," conferv&aelig; or
+infusoria. We were favoured for once with a grand view of the Andean
+peaks, which are seldom well<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span> seen from the coast, being wrapped in
+haze and clouds.</p>
+
+<div class="center" style="padding-top: 2em; ">
+ <a name="img014" id="img014"></a>
+<img src="images/img014.jpg"
+    alt="LLAMAS AS PACK ANIMALS."
+    title="LLAMAS AS PACK ANIMALS." />
+</div>
+
+<h4>LLAMAS AS PACK ANIMALS.</h4>
+
+<div class="center" style="padding-top: 2em; ">
+ <a name="img015" id="img015"></a>
+<img src="images/img015.jpg"
+    alt="DRIFTING SAND DUNE."
+    title="DRIFTING SAND DUNE." />
+</div>
+
+<h4>DRIFTING SAND DUNE. (One of thousands.)</h4>
+
+<p>Arrived at Mollendo, port of Arequipa and Bolivia, I at once took train
+and rose rapidly to an elevation of 8000 feet, arriving in the evening
+at Arequipa. The whole country is desolate in the extreme. On the high
+plains we passed through an immense field of moving sand-hills, all of
+crescent shape, the sand being white and of a very fine grain. On
+approaching Arequipa the sunset effect on the bright and vari-hued rock
+strata and scori&aelig;, backed by the grand Volcan Misti, 19,000 feet high,
+made a marvellously beautiful picture, the most beautiful of its kind
+ever seen by me, and showing how wonderfully coloured landscapes may be
+without the presence of vegetation of any kind. Hotels in Arequipa are
+very primitive, and after a glance at the market and its filthy people
+you will confine your table fare to eggs and English biscuits as I did.
+Arequipa has been thrice destroyed by earthquakes and is indeed
+considered the quakiest spot on earth. Priests, monks, ragged soldiers
+and churches almost compose the town; yet it has a very beautiful Plaza
+de Armas, where in the evenings Arequipa fashion promenades to the music
+of a quite good band. I seemed to be the only tourist here.</p>
+
+<p>On the 20th I took train to Juliaca, rising to 15,000 feet; thence two
+days to Cuzco, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span> celebrated southern capital of the Incas, whose
+history I will not here touch on. Not only are there abandoned Inca
+remains, but also in high Peru and Bolivia remains of structures
+erected, as it is now supposed, 5000 years ago. The pottery recently
+found would suggest this, it being as gracefully moulded and decorated
+as that of Egypt of the same period; authority even declaring it to be
+undistinguishable from the latter, and they also testify to evidence of
+an extremely high and cultivated civilization, not barbaric in any
+sense, in these remote periods. Indeed, the civilization of the country
+at that far-off time must have been quite as advanced as in the Nile
+Valley. Cyclopean walls and other remains show a marvellous skill in
+construction; individual blocks of granite-stone, measuring as much as
+fifteen to twenty feet in diameter, being placed in these walls with
+such skill that even to-day a pen-knife blade cannot be inserted between
+them. No mortar was used, but the blocks are keyed together in a
+peculiar way. How this stone was so skilfully cut and transported we
+cannot imagine; even with iron and all our modern appliances it is
+doubtful if we could produce such exactitude.</p>
+
+<div class="center" style="padding-top: 2em; ">
+ <a name="img016" id="img016"></a>
+<img src="images/img016.jpg"
+    alt="PERUVIAN RUINS."
+    title="PERUVIAN RUINS." />
+</div>
+
+<h4>PERUVIAN RUINS.<br />(Note dimensions of stones and locking system.)</h4>
+
+
+<p>At Puna one gets a good view of Lake Titicaca, still a large lake, but
+once of much greater dimensions. Sailing over and among the high peaks
+it was here my good fortune to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span> view for the first time that majestic
+bird, the condor, which, it is declared, has never been seen to flap its
+wings. Thus in the South Seas I had been privileged to see the
+albatross, and here the condor. Lucky, indeed, to have viewed these
+monarchs of the air, free in their proper element, in all their pride,
+grace and beauty. How often, as a boy, or even as a man, has one
+anticipated "some day" seeing these noble birds in their native haunts!
+Also many llamas and alpacas, the former very handsome animals. The
+vicu&ntilde;as and guanacos are the wild representatives of this family, and
+are also very abundant. In Arequipa I suffered somewhat from "nevada,"
+due to electric conditions, and distinct from "saroche." Saroche never
+affected me.</p>
+
+<p>December 27th.&mdash;Sailed for Valparaiso, calling at Iquique, Antofagasta
+and Coquimbo. The coast country is so desolate and arid that at some of
+these purely nitrate towns school-children's knowledge of trees and
+other plants is derived solely from painted representations on boardings
+erected for the purpose. This may seem libellous, but is not so.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived at Valparaiso on New Year's Day. The city showed few signs of
+its late disaster. The harbour is poor, and the place has few
+attractions. Society was attending a race meeting at Vi&ntilde;o del Mar. Went
+on to Santiago, the capital, 1500 feet elevation, population claimed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span>
+300,000; our route lying through rich, well-cultivated valleys. The
+climate and general appearance of the country are much like those of
+California, the temperature being quite hot at mid-day but cool always
+in the shade, the nights being chilly. This was midsummer. Santiago has
+some handsome buildings and a very attractive Plaza Mayor; the hotels
+are poor. The Chilians are an active, intelligent, wide-awake people;
+are great fighters and free from the religious trammels of Peru. From
+here I took train to Los Andes; then by narrow gauge line, the grade
+being 7 per cent. on the cog track, through barren rough gorges to the
+Cumbre, or summit, 13,000 feet high. The most commanding peak that we
+saw was Aconcagua, over 23,000 feet high, and the highest mountain in
+the Western Hemisphere. At Lago del Inca, at the entrance to the
+incompleted tunnel, we left the train and took mules or carts to the
+summit, where is an immense, surprising and commanding figure of the
+Christ. On the Argentina side we again took train to Mendoza, an
+important town and centre of the fruit and wine country. Thence a
+straight run over the immense level pampas, now pastures grazed by
+innumerable cattle, sheep and horses, to Buenos Ayres. Many rheas
+(ostriches) were seen from the train. These birds, the hens, lay in each
+other's nests, and the male incubates&mdash;perhaps to save the time of the
+hens; which reminds one of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span> cuckoo, who mates often, and whose stay
+is so limited that she has no time to incubate. Yet she does not lay in
+nests, but on the ground, and the eggs are deposited by the male in the
+nests of birds whose eggs they most resemble, and only one in each.</p>
+
+<p>By-the-by, whilst in Santiago a quite severe quake occurred, but there
+were few casualties, only two people being killed. It was at night, and
+my bedroom being on the third floor of the only three-storey building in
+town, I continued to lie in bed, not indeed knowing what to do, and
+resigning myself to fate. I distinctly do not want to live in quaking
+countries!</p>
+
+<p>The sensation produced on one by an earthquake is peculiar and different
+from all others. One is not so much alarmed as overawed; one feels so
+helpless, so insignificant; you know you can do nothing. What may happen
+next at any moment is beyond your ken; only when you realize that the
+disturbance has actually shaken these immense mountain masses and these
+boundless plains do you appreciate the forces that have caused it. The
+Krakatoa outbreak raised the water in our Thames four inches. A great
+Peruvian earthquake sent a tidal wave into the Red Sea.</p>
+
+<p>Buenos Ayres is a city of some 1,200,000 people, half Italians (the
+working and go-ahead half) and half Spanish Americans. But there is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span>
+also a very mixed population. There are many fine buildings and palatial
+residences, but the business streets are ridiculously narrow, save and
+except the Avenida de Mayo, which is one of the handsomest streets in
+the world. The new boulevards, the parks and race-tracks all deserve
+admiration. The hotels are not quite good enough&mdash;not even the palatial
+"Plaza." Prices, and indeed the cost of living, are quite as great as in
+New York. It was too hot to remain long, so I crossed to Montevideo,
+went all over the town; but beyond seeing (not meeting, alas!) one of
+the most beautiful girls I ever saw in my life, there was not much to
+interest. So, on the White Star Liner <i>Athenic</i>, I hastened to England.
+It may be remarked here that though Buenos Ayres and Santiago claim, and
+offer, wonderful displays of horsed carriages in their parks, if one
+watches them critically he will seldom see a really smart turn-out. The
+coachman's badly-made boots, or a strap out of place, or a buckle
+wanting, or blacking needed, all detract from the desirable London
+standard.</p>
+
+<p>January 24th.&mdash;We entered beautiful Rio harbour. In the town the
+temperature was unbearable. The city is in the same transformation
+condition as Buenos Ayres; the streets are narrow, except the very
+handsome new Avenida Central. The esplanade on the bay is quite
+unequalled anywhere else. Surely a great future awaits Rio!<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span> A trip up
+Corcovada, a needle-like peak, some 2000 feet high, overlooking the bay,
+should not be missed. We sailed again for Teneriffe to coal, which gave
+us an opportunity to admire the grand peak and get some idea of the
+nature of the country. Thence home.</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps a short note on the great historical personages of Central and
+South America may be of interest. Among these the greatest was Simon
+Bolivar, who with Miranda, the Apostle of Liberty, freed the Northern
+States of South America from Spanish dominion. It was Bolivar who in
+1826 summoned the first International Peace Congress at Panama. San
+Martin, an equally great man, born in Argentina, freed the southern half
+of the Continent. Lopez, president in 1862 of Paraguay, has secured
+notoriety for having had the worst character in all American history.
+Petion, almost a pure negro, deserves also a prominent place. He was
+born in 1770, was a great, good and able man, and freed Haiti; he also
+assisted and advised Bolivar. May I also remind you here that Peru is
+the home of the Peruvian bark tree (cinchona) and the equally valuable
+coca plant, which gives us cocaine. Paraguay is the country of the
+yerba-mate, universally drunk there, supplanting tea, coffee, cocoa and
+coca. Like coca it has very stimulating qualities. El Dorado, the
+much-sought-for and fabulous, was vouched for by Juan Martinez,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span> the
+chief of liars, who located it somewhere up the Orinoco River.</p>
+
+<p>The Spaniards, and also the Portuguese, were wonderful colonizers and
+administrators. Just think what enormous territories their civilization
+influenced, and influenced for good. Certainly the torch of the
+Inquisition accompanied them; but even under that dreadful blight their
+colonies prospered and the conquered races became Iberianized, such was
+their masters' power of impressing their language, religion and manners
+on even barbarous tribes.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV</h2>
+
+<h3>FIFTH TOUR ABROAD</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>California&mdash;Honolulu&mdash;Japan&mdash;China&mdash;Singapore&mdash;Burmah&mdash;India&mdash;Ceylon&mdash;The
+End.</p></div>
+
+<p>I hope these hasty notes, so hurriedly and scantily given, may have
+interested my readers enough to secure their company for one more
+globe-trot, which shall be rushed through in order to bring these
+reminiscences to a close.</p>
+
+<p>A momentous event of 1910 was the death of King Edward VII., which threw
+everybody into deep mourning; and it seemed to me Englishwomen never
+looked so well as when dressed in black.</p>
+
+<p>In the autumn I started for New York and Amarillo. Never before was I so
+impressed with the growth and improvement and possibilities of New York
+city, soon to be the most populous, wealthiest and greatest city the
+world has ever seen. The incomparable beauty of the American woods and
+forests in the fall again attracted me and afforded much pleasure.</p>
+
+<p>From Amarillo I went on to San Francisco, stopping off to have yet one
+more sight of the Grand Ca&ntilde;on of the Colorado River. San Francisco was
+now almost completely restored,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span> and much on the old plan. Her Knob-hill
+palaces are gone, but her hotels are better and more palatial than ever.</p>
+
+<p>November 22nd.&mdash;Sailed on a Japanese steamer for Yokohama, via Honolulu.
+These Japanese steamers are first-class, and noted for cleanliness and
+the politeness of the entire ship's company. We coaled at Honolulu and
+then proceeded. On approaching Yokohama we got a fine view of Fuji-San,
+the great national volcano, as it may be called, its perfect cone rising
+sheer from the low plain to a height of 12,700 feet. Fuji is at present
+quiescent; but Japan has some active volcanoes, and earthquakes are very
+frequent. My visit was at the least favourable time of the year, viz.,
+in winter. The country should be seen in spring, during the
+cherry-blossom season, or in the autumn, when the tree foliage is almost
+more beautiful.</p>
+
+<p>From Yokohama I went on to Tokio, formerly Jeddo, and now the capital.
+It is a large and busy city with some fine Government modern buildings.
+The palace, parks and temples form the sights. In the city proper as in
+all Japanese towns, the streets are very narrow and crowded with
+rickshaws, the only means of passenger conveyance. At the Anglo-Japanese
+dinner, given at my hotel, I had an opportunity of seeing Japanese men
+and women in full-dress attire, and to notice the extreme formalities of
+their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span> greetings. A Japanese gentleman bows once, then again, and, as if
+he had forgotten something, after a short interval a third time. From
+Tokio I went to Kioto, formerly the residence of the Mikado, now purely
+a native city, with no modern buildings and still narrower streets; but
+it is the centre of the cloisonn&eacute;, damascening and embroidery
+industries. Hotels in Japan are everywhere quite good. Here I visited
+the fencing and jiu-jitsu schools, which are attended by a large number
+of pupils, women as well as men. Also the geisha school, and saw girls
+taught dancing, music and tea ceremony. What perfectly delightful and
+charming little ladies Japanese girls of apparently all classes are. The
+smile of the geisha girl may be professional, but is very seductive and
+penetrating; so that the mere European man is soon a willing worshipper.
+The plump little waitresses in hotels and tea-houses, charmingly
+costumed, smiling as only they can smile, are incomparable. The
+Japanese, too, are the cleanest of all nations; the Chinese and Koreans
+among the dirtiest. They are extremely courteous as well as polite. A
+drunken man is hardly ever seen in Japan, a woman never. An angry word
+is hardly ever heard; indeed, the language has no "swear" words. All the
+people are artistic, even &aelig;sthetic. Arthur Diosy in his book declares
+that the Japanese are the most cheerful, peaceable, law-abiding and
+kindliest of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span> all peoples. Up till the "Great Change," 1871, trade was
+considered unsuitable for, and degrading to, a gentleman. Women here,
+by-the-by, shave or have shaven the whole face, including the nose and
+ears, though not the eyebrows. How these Japs worship the beauties of
+Nature! Few of us might see much beauty in a purple cabbage; yet in my
+hotel purple cabbages were put in prominent places to decorate the
+dining-hall, and were really quite effective.</p>
+
+<p>From Kioto I went to Nara, once the capital of the Empire, a pretty
+place with large park and interesting museum. A great religious festival
+was on, including a procession of men in ancient armour and costumes.
+There was also some horse-racing, which was quite comical. Apparently no
+European but myself was present. On travelling to Nara I passed through
+the tea district of Oji. The gardens are very beautiful and carefully
+tended. It was a great treat to me this first opportunity to see
+something of Japanese peasant life, and to admire the intensive and
+thorough cultivation. Not a foot of productive soil is wasted. The
+landscape of rice-fields, succeeded by tea-gardens, bamboo groves, up to
+the forest or brush-clad hills, and the very picturesque villages and
+farmhouses and rustic temples, form many a delightful picture. In the
+growing season the whole country must be very beautiful. Excellent trout
+and salmon fishing may then<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span> be had. The adopted national game for
+youths seems to be base-ball, and not cricket as in China.</p>
+
+<p>Next I went to Kobe, via Osaka, the great manufacturing centre of the
+Empire. At Kobe took another Japanese steamer for Shanghai, calling at
+Moji, Shimonoseki and Nagasaki, and traversing the wonderfully beautiful
+inland Sea of Japan, a magnified, and quite as beautiful, Loch Lomond.
+This sea was dotted with innumerable fishing-boats. Indeed, Japan's
+sea-fisheries must be one of her most valuable assets. Moji harbour is a
+beautiful one, has an inlet and an outlet, but appears land-locked. On
+the mainland side is Shimonoseki, where Li Hung Chang signed the Peace
+Treaty with Japan, and where he was later wounded by an assassin.
+Nagasaki has also a fine harbour. From here I took a rickshaw ride over
+the hills to a lovely little summer coast-resort, passing through a most
+picturesque country.</p>
+
+<p>Japan has, among many others, one particular curiosity in the shape of a
+domestic cock, possessing a tail as much as fifteen feet in length, and
+which tail receives its owner's, or rather its owner's owner's, most
+careful consideration. The unfortunate bird is kept in a very small
+wicker cage, so small that he can't turn round, the long tail feathers
+escaping through an aperture and drooping to the ground. Once a day the
+bird is taken out and allowed to exercise for a short time on a
+spotlessly clean floor-mat.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>While in Japan I was told that her modern cultured men are satisfied
+with a simple work-a-day system of Ethics, priestly guidance being
+unnecessary, and they regard religion as being for the ignorant,
+superstitious or thoughtless. Thus they "emancipate their consciences
+from the conventional bonds of traditional religions."</p>
+
+<p>It has been remarked that the Japanese will probably never again be such
+heroes, or at least will never be such reckless, fanatical fighters as
+they were in the late war, as civilization and property rights will make
+life more worth living and therefore preserving. The same might apply to
+the Fuzzy Wuzzies, to Cromwell's Ironsides, and to some extent our own
+Highlanders and others of a like fanatical tendency.</p>
+
+<p>It had been my intention and hope to visit Korea, Port Arthur, Mukden
+and Peking; but was advised very strongly, on account of the extreme
+cold and almost Arctic conditions said to be prevailing in North China,
+not to go there. But at Shanghai I had better information, contradicting
+these reports and describing the weather as delightful at the capital.
+Shanghai has an immense river and ocean trade, and in the waterway are
+swung river gun-boats of all nations, as well as queer-looking Chinese
+armed junks, used in putting down piracy. I visited the city club, the
+country club, and the racecourse, and took a stroll at night through
+Soochow<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span> Road, among the native tea-houses, theatres, etc. Someone
+advised me to visit a town up the river on a certain day to witness the
+execution of some dozen river pirates and other criminals, a common
+occurrence; but such an attraction did not appeal to me.</p>
+
+<p>In China, as in Japan and other countries, the German, often gross,
+selfish and vulgar, is ever present. But he is resourceful and
+determined, and threatens to push the placid Englishman to the wall.</p>
+
+<p>Though the practice is not now permitted, Chinese women's bound and
+deformed feet are still to the stranger a constant source of wonder. It
+is said the custom arose in the desire of Court ladies to emulate the
+very tiny feet of a certain royal princess; but it is also suggested
+that the custom was instituted to stop the female gadding-about
+propensity!</p>
+
+<p>Here in Shanghai I first observed edible swallow-nests in the market for
+sale. They did not look nice, but why should they not be so, knowing as
+we do that the young of swallows, unlike those of other birds, vent
+their ordure over the sides, so that the nests are not in any way
+defiled. Here I also learned that Pidgin, as in the expression "Pidgin"
+English, is John's attempt to pronounce "business."</p>
+
+<p>From Shanghai to Soochow city, a typical Chinese walled town, still
+quite unmodernized,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span> and no doubt the same as it was 2000 years ago.
+Tourists seldom enter it, and no European dwells within its walls,
+inside of which are crowded and jammed 500,000 souls. The main street
+was not more than six to eight <i>feet</i> wide, and so filled with such a
+jostling, busy crowd of people as surely could not be seen anywhere else
+on earth. Even rickshaws are not allowed to enter, there being no room
+for them. Progress can only be made on a donkey, and then with much
+shouting and discomfort. What a busy people the Chinese are! Some day
+they may people the earth. They seem to be even more intelligent than
+the Japanese, more honest and more industrious; and have an almost
+lovable disposition. And what giants they are compared to their
+neighbours!&mdash;the men from the north being especially so. I also went by
+narrow and vile-smelling streets to visit a celebrated leaning pagoda
+near Soochow, and on returning took the opportunity offered of
+inspecting with much interest a mandarin's rock-garden, purely Chinese
+and entirely different from Japanese similar retreats. In Shanghai I
+visited the original tea-house depicted on the well-known willow-pattern
+china ware.</p>
+
+<p>January 1st.&mdash;Arrived at Hong-Kong and admired its splendid harbour and
+surroundings. This is one of the greatest seaports in the world, with an
+enormous trade. The whole island<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span> belongs to Great Britain; unlike
+Shanghai, where different nationalities merely have concessions. In the
+famous Happy Valley I had several days' golfing with a naval friend, and
+we played very badly. A trip up the river to Canton, the southern
+capital of China, an immense city with 2,000,000 population, was full of
+interest. Half the population seemingly live in boats.</p>
+
+<p>What indefatigable workers the Chinese are. They seem to work all night
+and they seem to work all day. They are busy as ants. If one cannot find
+employment otherwise he will make it! Barring the beggars, there are no
+unemployed and no unemployables. What a mighty force they must become in
+the world's economy. We estimate China's population by millions, but
+forget to properly scale their energy and industry. What is the future
+of such a people to be! Yet they seem to be incapable of any general
+national movement: each is absorbed in his immediate work and contented
+to be so; so unlike the Japanese, with equal energy and industry, plus
+boundless ambition and patriotism.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></p>
+
+<p>The Chinaman's pigtail calls for explanation. The Manchus, on conquering
+China in 1644, decreed that all Chinese should shave the rest of the
+head but wear the pigtail. The Chinese would not submit to this; so the
+politic Manchu emperor further decreed that only loyal subjects <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span>might
+adopt the custom, criminals to be debarred. This ruse was so successful
+that now the Chinaman is even proud of his adornment, and little
+advantage is being taken of a recent relaxation of the decree.</p>
+
+<p>Sailing for Singapore I was blessed with a cabin all to myself, and what
+a blessing it is! In all my travels I have been singularly fortunate in
+securing privacy in this way.</p>
+
+<p>There is not much to interest in Singapore. It is one of the hottest
+places on earth, the same in winter and summer, purely tropical. It has,
+however, fine parks, streets and open places. The principal hotel is the
+"Raffles," which I should imagine is also the worst. The most notable
+feature of Singapore is the variety of "natives" domiciled
+there&mdash;Ceylonese, Burmese, Chinese, Japanese, Siamese, Hindoos and
+Malays. After leaving Singapore we looked in at Penang, where we had
+time to inspect a famous Chinese temple. An American Army General,
+D&mdash;&mdash;, and his wife were among the passengers, and I found much pleasure
+in their company; indeed, we travelled thereafter much together in
+Burmah and India.</p>
+
+<p>Rangoon, where we arrived next, is a large, well-laid-out city, as
+cosmopolitan as Singapore. The bazaars are well worth visiting, and the
+working of elephants in the great teak yards is one of the tourist's
+principal sights. But the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span> great Shwe Dagon pagoda is of course the
+centre of interest, and indeed it is one of the most astonishing places
+of worship it has been my fortune to visit. The pagoda itself is of the
+typical bell shape, solidly built of brick, gilded from base to summit,
+and crowned with a golden Ti. The shrines, too, which surround and
+jostle it, hold the attention and wonder of the visitor. There are very
+many of these, mostly of graceful design, with delicate and intricate
+wood carvings and other decorations. The pagoda is the most venerated of
+all Buddhist places of worship, containing as it does not only the eight
+sacred hairs of Gautama, but also relics of the three Buddhas who
+preceded him. It is also from its great height, 370 feet (higher than St
+Paul's Cathedral), and graceful shape, extremely imposing and sublime.</p>
+
+<p>From Rangoon I trained to Mandalay, on the Irawadi River, not a large
+town, but rich in historical associations, and famous for its Buddhist
+pagodas, such as The Incomparable and the Arakan; also the Queen's
+Golden Monastery. King Theebaw's palace remains much as it was, and well
+worth examination. The population here is almost purely Burmese; in fact
+you see the Burmese at their best, and the impression is always
+favourable. What brilliant but beautiful colours they affect in their
+head-clothes, jackets and silken gowns. They are a cheerful,
+light-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span>hearted and good-natured people, lazy perhaps, but all apparently
+well enough to do. The boys and the young men play the national game of
+football, the ball, made simply of lightly-plaited bamboo strips, being
+kicked and tossed into the air with wonderful skill and activity, never
+being allowed to touch the ground. The way they can "take" the ball from
+behind, and with the heel or side of the foot toss it upwards and
+forwards, would be a revelation even to the Newcastle United. The women
+and girls have utmost freedom and are to be seen everywhere, often
+smoking enormous cigarettes: merry and careless, but always well, and
+often charmingly, dressed.</p>
+
+<p>A fine view, and good idea, of the great Irawadi River may be obtained
+from Mandalay; but time was pressing, so I railed back to Rangoon
+instead of making the river trip, which my friends, the D&mdash;&mdash;s, did.</p>
+
+<p>The steamer to Calcutta was unusually crowded, but I was again fortunate
+enough to secure the use of the pilot's cabin all to myself. The Hugli
+River was familiar even after thirty-four years' absence, and in
+Calcutta I noticed little change. The hotels, including the Grand and
+Continental, are quite unworthy of the city, only the very old and
+well-known Great Eastern approaching the first-class character. Calcutta
+was getting hot, so I at once went on to Darjeeling, hoping to get a
+view of what my eyes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span> had ever longed to see&mdash;the glorious high peaks of
+the Himalayas, and the roof of the world. After a few hours' run through
+the celebrated Terai jungle, the haunt, and probably final sanctuary, of
+the big game of India, the track ascends rapidly and picturesquely
+through the tea district of Kangra, and arrives at Darjeeling, elevation
+7500 feet, the summer home of the Bengal Government and the merchant
+princes of Calcutta and elsewhere. I had been forewarned that the
+chances of seeing the high peaks at this time of the year were extremely
+slim; but my experience and disappointment in connection with Korea and
+Peking taught me to disregard such warnings; and, as it turned out, I
+was rewarded with a perfect day and magnificent views of Mounts
+Kinchinjunga and Everest, and all the other majestic heights; seen, too,
+in all their phases of cloud and mist, of perfectly clear blue sky, and
+of sunrise and sunset effects. It was indeed a most satisfying and
+absorbing twenty-four hours' visit, as I had also time, under the
+guidance of an official friend, to visit the picturesque weekly market
+or bazaar, where natives from Sikkim, Nepal, Butan and Tibet may be seen
+in all their dirt and strangeness. Also the quite beautiful Botanic
+Gardens, the Club House, the prayer-wheels, etc. More than that, I was
+privileged to pay my respects to the Dalai Lama, who had but recently
+left his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span> kingdom and taken refuge here. The acknowledged spiritual head
+of the Buddhists of Mongolia and China is a young man with a dreamy,
+absorbed expression of countenance, perhaps not of much intellectuality,
+but who is approachable even to the merely curious. My friend and kind
+cicerone was Commissioner of the Bengal police, and was extremely busy
+laying guards along the railroad and taking all other necessary
+precautions for the safety of the German Imperial Crown Prince during
+his projected visit to Darjeeling, a visit ultimately abandoned. I can
+imagine his chagrin at the waste of all his labours, expense to the
+Indian Government, etc. etc., due to the caprice of this apparently
+frivolous and not quite courteous young hopeful. Indeed, the Crown
+Prince, though a popular young fellow enough, was the source of trouble
+and tribulation to his hosts, breaking conventions and scandalizing
+Society by his disregard of its usages.</p>
+
+<p>Returning to Calcutta I thence took train to Agra via Allahabad,
+purposely, on account of the great discomfort and poor hotel
+accommodation due to the large tourist traffic, avoiding Lucknow,
+Benares and Cawnpore. At Allahabad the Aga Khan, temporal head of the
+Mohammedans of India, and a man of great authority and influence, joined
+our train, and part of the way I was lucky enough to be in his company
+and had an opportunity of speaking with him.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</a></span> In appearance he is a
+Turk, quite European in dress, and seems capable, energetic, sociable
+and agreeable. At every stopping-place he received an ovation, crowds of
+his Mussulman supporters and friends, among them apparently being chiefs
+and rajahs and other men of high degree, greeting him with much
+enthusiasm, which enthusiasm I learned was aroused by His Highness'
+endeavour towards the raising of the status of the Mohammedan College of
+Aligarh to that of a university.</p>
+
+<p>I should say here that, on Indian railways, the first-class carriages
+are divided into compartments, containing each four beds, but in which
+it is customary to put only two passengers, at least during sleeping
+hours, and unless an unusual crowd requires otherwise.</p>
+
+<p>It was also on this train I made the acquaintance of a gentleman on his
+way to visit the Maharaja of Gwalior, and who was kind enough to ask me
+to accompany him. I told him that if he would secure me an invitation
+from the Maharaja I would be only too pleased to do so. Gwalior was a
+place on my itinerary anyway; to go there as a guest would secure me
+many advantages not attainable by the ordinary tourist. My friend said
+he would see the Maharaja at once and have my visit arranged for. A few
+days afterwards I received advice that it had been done, so on arrival
+at Gwalior I was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></span> met by one of the State carriages and conveyed to the
+Guest House, formerly the zenana, close to the palace, a very beautiful
+and handsome building, where an excellent staff of servants, capital
+meals, choice liquors and cigars, were at our free disposal. His
+Highness does not eat with his guests, but they are all put up in this
+building; and during big shoots, durbars, or festive occasions, the
+house is always full. At the time of my visit the few guests included
+two Scotch manufacturers, who had just effected large sales of machinery
+to the Maharaja, the one securing from him an order worth &pound;60,000 for
+steam-breaking ploughs, the other an order of some &pound;20,000 for pumping
+appliances. The Maharaja is a thoroughly progressive man, has an
+enormous revenue, and devotes a large part of it to the bringing into
+cultivation tracts of hitherto unbroken and unoccupied land, which no
+doubt will eventually increase his revenue and provide homesteads for
+his people. Sindia, as his name is, is a keen soldier, a keen sportsman,
+and most loyal to the British Raj. He moves about freely, wearing a
+rough tweed suit, is busy and occupied all day long, and though he has
+ministers and officials of all degrees, and keeps great state on
+occasion, his army numbering some 5000 men, he finds time to superintend
+the various departments of his Government, and to administer his State
+with a thoroughness un<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</a></span>common among Indian potentates. The new palace is
+very beautiful and furnished in European manner, apparently quite
+regardless of expense. The crystal chandeliers in the reception-rooms
+are magnificent, and must alone represent fabulous sums. Near by the
+palace are a number of lions, now kept in proper cages, but I must say
+from the smell and filth not under very sanitary conditions. These lions
+he had imported from abroad and turned loose to furnish sport to his
+shooting friends; but they killed so many of the peasantry that they had
+to be recaptured and confined. The town of Lashkar, the State capital
+city, being reported full of plague, I was naturally careful in passing
+through. Nothing in it calls for comment, however. Gwalior Fort, on a
+high rocky plateau, has much historic interest. In it are the ancient
+palaces, still in fair condition but long ago abandoned, certain Jain
+temples covered with bas-relief carvings, tanks and many old ruins. The
+entrance is handsome and impressive. My friend and myself were supplied
+with an elephant, so we rode all over the immense fort, now almost
+silent, having only a small guard and a few other occupants. Altogether
+I enjoyed the visit very much, and after three or four days' stay
+returned to Agra. Everyone knows Agra, with its heavenly Taj-Mahal, its
+great fortress, its pearl mosque, its beautiful halls of audience and
+its palaces. It is truly sad to know that one of our<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</a></span> former
+Governor-Generals actually proposed to tear down the Taj-Mahal so that
+he could use the marble for other purposes! Among these delights of
+architecture one could wander for days, ever with an unquenched greed
+for the charm of their beauties. One sees marbled trellis-work of
+exquisite design and execution, and inlaid flower wreaths and scrolls of
+red cornelian and precious stone, as beautiful in colour as graceful in
+form. Agra's cantonment avenues and parks are kept in excellent order.
+The temperature at the time of my visit was delightfully cool, and the
+hotel the best I had yet found in India. Fatepur Sikri, a royal city
+built by Akbar, only to be abandoned by him again, is near Agra, and
+possesses enough deserted palaces, mosques and other beautiful buildings
+to make it well worth a visit.</p>
+
+<p>There is, for instance, the great mosque, rival to the Taj-Mahal, the
+inside of which is entirely overlaid with mother-of-pearl.</p>
+
+<p>From Agra I went to Delhi, India's imperial city. In and around it are
+innumerable palaces, mosques, tombs and forts, each and all worthy of
+careful inspection; but I will only mention the Jama Musjid; inside the
+fort the Diwan-i-Am, wherein formerly stood the famous peacock throne;
+and the Diwan-i-Kas, at either end of which, over the outer arches, is
+the famous Persian inscription, "If Heaven can be on the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</a></span> face of the
+earth it is this! Oh, it is this! Oh, it is this!" In the city itself is
+the famous street called Chandni Chauk. North of the city is a district
+where the principal incidents of the siege took place, and there also is
+the plain devoted to imperial durbars and assemblages. South of the city
+are many celebrated tombs, such as those of Emperor Humayun, and of
+Tughlak; and the majestic Kutab Minar. Mutiny recollections of course
+enormously add to one's interest in Delhi, and many days may be
+agreeably passed in company with her other historic, tragic and romantic
+associations. At the time of my visit preparations were already
+beginning for the great Coronation Durbar to be held next winter. Most
+hotels and private houses have already been leased. What the general
+public will do for accommodation I do not know. One will almost
+necessarily, like the King, have to go under canvas. The Circuit House
+will only be used by His Majesty should bad weather prevail. The native
+rulers of every grade are going to make such a display of Oriental
+magnificence as was never seen before. To many it will be their ruin, or
+at least a serious crippling of their resources; but it is a chance for
+display that does not often occur and they seem determined to make the
+most of it.</p>
+
+<p>Here at Delhi the General and myself again joined forces, he and his
+wife having visited<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</a></span> Lucknow and Cawnpore. We took train direct to
+Peshawar, via Rawal Pindi and Lahore. I never knew anyone who enjoyed
+foreign travel so much as my American friend. He was in a constant state
+of delight, finding interest and pleasure in small matters that never
+even attracted my attention, though as a rule my faculty for observation
+is by no means obtuse. In Burmah the bright-hued cupras of the natives
+filled him with intense joy, and the presence of some closely-screened
+native ladies on a ferryboat so held his gaze that his wife (and I
+suspect they were not long married) must have felt pangs of jealousy.
+But he was a keen soldier, and had frequently represented his country at
+the German and other man&oelig;uvres, and had been Adjutant-General at the
+inauguration of President Roosevelt, a very honourable position indeed.
+So he was intensely interested in old forts and battlefields, and his
+enthusiasm while in Peshawar and the Khaiber Pass was boundless. More
+than that he was a strong Anglo-Phile, and amused me by his disparaging
+criticism on how his own Government did things in the Philippines and
+elsewhere, compared with what he saw in India and other British
+possessions. Peshawar is a very delightful place, or so at least it
+appeared to me. We lodged in a capital though small hotel. The climate
+was then very agreeable; the cantonment gardens and avenues are a
+paradise of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</a></span> beauty, at least compared with the surrounding dry and
+semi-barren country. In the native city one mixed with new races of
+people, Afghans and Asians, and picturesque and fierce-looking tribesmen
+from the hills. Also an immense number of camels, the only means of
+traffic communication with western and northern native states.</p>
+
+<p>But before arriving at Peshawar one must not forget to mention the
+magnificent view obtained from the car windows of the glorious range of
+Cashmere Snowy Mountains, showing peaks of 20,000 to 25,000 feet
+elevation; nor the crossing by a fortified railway bridge of the
+historic Indus River, near Attock, at the very spot where the Greek
+Alexander entered India on his campaign of conquest A mile above this
+point the Kabul River joins the Indus. Here too is a romantic-looking
+town and fortress built by the Emperor Akbar, still unimpaired and in
+occupation by British troops. The approaches to the bridge and fort are
+strongly guarded, emplacements for guns being noticeable at every
+vantage point on the surrounding hills, while ancient round towers and
+other fortifications tell of the troublous times and martial deeds this
+important position has been witness to.</p>
+
+<p>For our visit to the Khaiber Pass General Nixon, Commandant at Peshawar,
+put a carriage at our disposal, in which we drove as far as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</a></span> Jamrud, the
+isolated fort so often pictured in our illustrated papers, where we
+exchanged into tongas, in which to complete the journey through the pass
+as far as Ali Musjid. The pass is now patrolled by the Afridi Rifles, a
+corps composed of Afridi tribesmen commanded by British officers. At
+frequent intervals along the route these Afridi sentinels can be seen
+standing on silent guard on all commanding points of the hills. One sees
+numerous Afridi hamlets, though what the occupants find to support
+themselves with it is difficult to understand. A good carriage road
+continues all the way, in places steep enough and tortuous, as the rough
+broken nature of the country necessitates. By another road or trail,
+paralleling our own, a continuous string of camel caravans proceeds in
+single file at a leisurely gait, the animals loaded with merchandise for
+the Kabul market and others in Central Asia. It is a rough, desolate and
+uninteresting country, yet grand and beautiful in its way, and one is at
+once struck with the difficulties to be encountered by troops
+endeavouring to force their way through, commanded as the pass is at
+every turn by positions so admirably suited for guerrilla warfare and
+delightful possibilities for an enemy with sniping propensities. At Ali
+Musjid the camel and carriage tracks come together. Here at this little
+mosque was the point beyond which we were not allowed to proceed; so
+after a most<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[Pg 309]</a></span> interesting visit we returned to Peshawar. We were most
+fortunate in the weather, as the strong wind which always blows down the
+pass is in winter time generally excessively cold. At Peshawar I bade
+good-bye to my most agreeable American friends, the General being keen
+on visiting Quetta; whither, had it not been so much out of my own
+proposed line of travel, I would gladly have accompanied him. So my next
+move was back to Delhi, and thence by train via Jeypore to Udaipur, one
+of the most delightfully picturesque and interesting of all Indian
+native capitals. There is a tiny little hotel at Udaipur, outside the
+walls, showing that visiting tourists are few and far between. The
+Maharana holds by his old and established customs, and has none of the
+modern spirit shown by such princes as Sindia, the Nizam, and certain
+other native chiefs. He has, however, gone so far as to furnish his new
+palace in a most gorgeous manner, the chairs, tables, mirror frames,
+bedsteads seen in the State apartments being composed of crystal glass.
+The show attraction of the palace, in the eyes of the attendants, who
+were ever at one's beck and call, was a Teddy dog with wagging head,
+which miracle of miracles one seemed to be expected to properly marvel
+at. The old palace, adjoining the new, is a much finer building, being
+mostly of marble, and is purely Oriental in its<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[Pg 310]</a></span> stairways, doorways,
+closets, balconies and delightful roof-gardens, as one's preconceived
+notions expect an Eastern potentate's palace to be. The new palace
+showed no sign of occupancy, and I imagined the Maharana, then absent,
+really favours the older building, and small blame to him! Around in
+various places the State elephants are stabled, or rather chained, in
+the open air, and looked after by their numerous attendants. In the
+grand court in front were several of these animals, and a myriad of
+pigeons, protected by their sanctity, flew about in clouds, or perched
+on the projections of the palace walls. From a boat on the large and
+lovely lake, on whose very edge the commanding palace stands, a
+beautiful view is obtained. On islands in the lake two delightful little
+summer palaces are built, of white marble and luxuriously furnished
+within. Elephants were bathing themselves at the water's edge, and the
+roar of caged lions was heard from the neighbouring royal garden.
+Pea-fowl perched on the marble colonnade, and pigeons were circling and
+sailing in the glorious sunshine. What a sight! especially when evening
+drew in, and the setting sun lighted up the graceful cupolas and domes,
+and threw shadows round the towers and battlements, the whole reflected
+in the glassy surface of the water. At one place near by the wild pigs
+approached to be fed and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[Pg 311]</a></span> some grand old fellows may be seen amongst
+them.</p>
+
+<div class="center" style="padding-top: 2em; ">
+ <a name="img017" id="img017"></a>
+<img src="images/img017.jpg"
+    alt="PALACE OF MAJARANA OF UDAIPUR."
+    title="PALACE OF MAJARANA OF UDAIPUR." />
+</div>
+
+<h4>PALACE OF MAJARANA OF UDAIPUR.</h4>
+
+<p>It is still the custom of nearly all men here above the rank of coolie
+to carry swords or other weapons. For are these Rajputs not of a proud
+and warlike race, as may be seen by their bearing; and is not their
+Maharana of the longest lineage in India, and the highest in rank of all
+the Rajput princes? A few miles from the capital is Chitorgarh. Here I
+saw the wonderful old fortress, with its noble entrance gate, and the
+ancient town of Chitor, once the capital of Mewar. Also the two imposing
+towers of Fame and Victory. Throughout the state one is struck by the
+great number of wild pea-fowl picking their way through the stubble just
+as pheasants do. The flesh of pea-fowl, which I have tasted, is
+excellent eating, surpassing that of the pheasant. One also sees numbers
+of a large grey, long-tailed monkey, which seem to preferably attach
+themselves to old and ruined temples or tombs. From here, Chitorgarh, I
+next took train to Bombay, passing through Rutlam, a great
+poppy-producing centre. At Baroda I received into my compartment the
+brother of the late Gaikwar (uncle of the present?). It had often
+occurred to me before to wonder how the high-class natives travel on the
+railways. Never had I yet seen a native enter a first-class compartment
+where there happened to be any Europeans. In this instance,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[Pg 312]</a></span> at Baroda,
+I had noticed a man, apparently of consequence, judging by his
+attendants, evidently wanting to travel by this train. Soon one of the
+party approached, and almost humbly, it seemed more than politely, asked
+if I would have no objection to the company of the brother of the
+Gaikwar. Of course I said I could have no objection, and so we travelled
+together to Bombay. But what is the feeling between the two races that
+keeps them thus apart?</p>
+
+<p>Bombay surprised me more by the delightfully cold breeze then blowing
+than by anything else. I took a drive over Malabar Hill and saw the
+Parsee Towers of Silence, as they are popularly called. The immense Taj
+Hotel, where I stayed one night, by no means justifies its pretensions.
+Indeed, it is one of the poorest or worst in all India. Next day I
+started out for Hyderabad, and had a long, hot, slow twenty-four hours'
+journey; the principal crop noticed being to me the familiar Kafir corn.
+Yes, it was very hot and dusty. As usual, the train was packed with
+natives, but myself seemed to be the only European on board. Arrived at
+Hyderabad, I at once drove over to Secunderabad, a very large British
+cantonment and station. From here, missing the friends I had come to
+see, and there being nothing to specially interest otherwise, I again
+took train to Madras. A letter of introduction in my pocket to the
+Nizam's Prime<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[Pg 313]</a></span> Minister might have been useful in seeing the city had I
+presented it, but pressure of time induced me to push on; nor did I stop
+in Madras longer than to allow of a drive round the city, the heat being
+very great. Indeed, I was getting very tired of such hurried travel and
+sight-seeing, and was longing for a week's rest and quietude in the cool
+and pleasant highlands of Ceylon. My health also was now giving me some
+concern; so on again to Madura, <i>en route</i> to Tuticorin, from whence a
+steamer would take me across to the land of spicy breezes. Madura has a
+wonderful old temple of immense size, surrounded by gopuras of pyramidal
+form, in whose construction huge stones of enormous dimensions were
+utilized; the temple also has much fine carving, etc. The old palace is
+of great beauty and interest.</p>
+
+<p>Colombo was, as usual, uncomfortably warm; only on the seashore at Galle
+Face could one get relief, and Galle Face with its excellent hotel is
+certainly a very delightful place. I did not stay in Colombo, but at
+once took train to visit Anauradapura and the dead cities of Ceylon.
+Here was the heart of a district ten miles in diameter, practically
+covered by the site and remains of the ancient city, which in its prime,
+about the beginning of the Christian era, ranked with Babylon and
+Nineveh in its dimensions, population and magnificence. Its walls
+included an area of 260 square miles. Among its ruins<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</a></span> the most notable
+are the dagobas (pagodas), some of such enormous size that the number of
+bricks used in their construction baffles conception. One of the dagobas
+has a diameter of 327 feet and a height of 270. It is solidly built of
+bricks, and contains material enough to build a complete modern town of
+50,000 people. These Buddhist dagobas of Ceylon have the bell-shape
+form, and serve the same purpose as the Shwe Dagon in Rangoon, viz., to
+shelter relics of the Buddhas. Close by, within the walls of a Buddhist
+temple, or monastery, still grows the famous Bo or Pipal tree, the
+oldest living historical tree in the world, brought here 250
+<span class="smcap">B.C.</span> from Buddh Gaya in India. Only a fragment of the original
+main trunk now exists, the various offshoots growing vigorously in the
+surrounding compound, all still guarded and attended by the priests as
+lovingly as when done 2200 years ago. At Anauradapura is a quite
+charming little Rest House, shaded and surrounded by beautiful tropical
+trees of great variety.</p>
+
+<p>From here I went to Kandy, the former capital of the native kings of
+that name. In the fourteenth century a temple was erected here to
+contain a tooth of Buddha and other relics. Later, the temple was sacked
+and the sacred tooth destroyed, but another to which was given similar
+attributes was put in its place. Kandy is a pretty spot, with a good
+hotel and agreeable<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[Pg 315]</a></span> climate, its elevation being 1800 feet above
+sea-level. Near by is Paradenia and the beautiful Botanical Gardens, in
+which it is a perfect delight to wander.</p>
+
+<p>We had already passed through a most lovely and picturesque country; but
+the grandest and most impressive scenery of Ceylon lies between Kandy
+and Newara Elia. Tea-gardens extend everywhere, and the cosy,
+neat-looking bungalows of the planters have a most attractive
+appearance. Newara Elia stands very high, some 7000 feet. Its vegetation
+is that of a temperate climate, and in the winter months the climate
+itself is ideal. The bracing atmosphere suggests golf and all other
+kinds of sport, and golfing there is of the very best kind. There is an
+excellent hotel, though I myself put up at the Hill Club. All Ceylon is
+beautiful, the roads are good, and many delightful excursions can be
+made. I do not think I ever saw a more beautiful country. But the
+sailing date draws near, so I must hurry down again to Colombo, and thus
+practically complete my second tour round the world. A P. &amp; O. steamer
+brought us to Aden, the canal, Messina and Marseilles. We enjoyed lovely
+cool and calm weather all the way till near the end, when off the
+"balmy" coast of the Riviera we encountered bitter cold winds and stormy
+seas. And so through France to England, to the best country of them all,
+even though it be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[Pg 316]</a></span> the land of coined currency bearing no testimony to
+its value; where registered letters may be receipted for by others than
+the addressee; and where butcher meat is freely exposed in the shops,
+and even outside, to all the filth that flies&mdash;my last fling at the dear
+old country.</p>
+
+<p>Someone has asked me which was the most beautiful place I had ever seen?
+It was impossible to answer. The whole world is beautiful! The barren
+desert, the boundless ocean, the mountain region and the flat country,
+even these monotonous Staked Plains of New Mexico, under storm or
+sunshine, all equally compel us to admiration and wonderment.</p>
+
+<p>In closing this somewhat higgledy-piggledy narrative, let me once more
+express my hope that readers will have found in it some entertainment,
+perhaps instruction, and possibly amusement.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">[Pg 317]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> Appendix, Note I.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="APPENDIX" id="APPENDIX"></a>APPENDIX</h2>
+
+
+<p><i>Note I.</i>&mdash;An outcry against Mormonism has been raised lately in this
+country. It is its polygamous character that has been attacked. But does
+polygamy deserve all that is said about it? It is not immoral and should
+not be criminal. Compare it with the very vicious modern custom of
+restricted families, which is immoral and should be criminal. Where is
+our population going to come from? The Chinese, Japanese, Indians and
+negroes are swarming all over the earth; while our race is almost
+stagnant, yet owning and claiming continents and islands practically
+unpeopled. Some day, possibly, polygamy will have to be permitted, even
+by the most civilized of nations.</p>
+
+<p><i>Note II.</i>&mdash;In this present year there is much writing and much talking
+about arbitration treaties and preferential tariffs. A general
+arbitration on <i>all</i> matters between the United States and Great Britain
+is probably quite impracticable. Preferential tariff within the Empire
+would be highly advantageous to the Mother Country. If so, let us go for
+it while the opportunity offers. But it does seem to me there is a
+much-mistaken idea prevalent at home as to the loyalty of the Colonies
+and Dominions. One travels for information and should be allowed to give
+his conclusions. What holds these offshoots to the mother stem? Loyalty?
+I think not. Simply the realization that they are not (not yet) strong
+enough to stand alone: and it is the opinion of many that, as soon as
+they are, loyalty will be thrown to the winds; and naturally! (Since
+the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[Pg 318]</a></span> above was written has it not been abundantly verified?) There is
+also even a belief (the wish being father to the thought) that the
+United States of America have a sentimental feeling for the Old Country;
+and one frequently hears the platform or banquet stock phrase, "Blood is
+thicker than water." It would be well if our people were enlightened
+with the truth. After twenty-five years' residence in the United States
+I will dare to say that the two nations are entirely foreign and
+antagonistic one to another. And it is a fortunate thing that between
+them few "Questions" remain to be arbitrated either by pen or sword. The
+two peoples do not understand one another, and do not try to. The
+ordinary English traveller does not meet or mix with the real American
+people, who are rapidly developing a civilization entirely their own, in
+social customs, in civil government, and even in fashions of dress.</p>
+
+<p><i>Note III.</i>&mdash;Might a just comparison not be drawn between these "dogies"
+and the type of men we now recruit for our standing Army? Are they not
+dogies? Is it not a fact that many of them never had a square meal in
+their lives! At least they look like it. But when taken up, if not while
+yet babies at least when they are still at a critical age of
+development, say eighteen years, and fed substantially and satisfyingly,
+as is now done in the Army, what an almost miraculous physical change
+takes place! And not only physical, but mental and moral, due to the
+influence of discipline and athletic exercises. If such be the effect on
+our few annual recruits, why not submit the whole young manhood of the
+nation to such beneficial conditions by the introduction of compulsory
+national military service? And not only that! Is not the private soldier
+of this country, alone of all others, refused admission to certain
+places of entertainment open to the public? Why?<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">[Pg 319]</a></span> Because he is a
+hireling. Because no man of character or independence will adopt such a
+calling. He would degrade himself by doing so. But make the service
+compulsory to all men, and at once the calling becomes an honourable
+one. Can it be imagined for a moment that any of our raw recruits enter
+the service from a love for King and country? No; they sell their
+birthright for a red coat and a pittance, renounce their independence
+and stultify the natural ambition that should stimulate every man worthy
+of the name.</p>
+
+<p>Though our men do not have the initiative and self-resource of the
+Americans, still they are the smartest and best-set-up troops in the
+world. Many of them are of splendid physique and look like they could go
+anywhere and do anything. The whole world <i>was</i> open to them; yet here
+they still are in the ranks, dummies and automatons, devoid of ambition
+and self-assertiveness.</p>
+
+<p>Only national service will rid us of the army of unemployables. It will
+develop them physically and mentally, and make men of them such as our
+Colonies will be glad and proud to admit to citizenship.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">[Pg 320]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">EDINBURGH</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">COLSTONS LIMITED</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">PRINTERS</span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Ranching, Sport and Travel, by Thomas Carson
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+</body>
+</html>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Ranching, Sport and Travel, by Thomas Carson
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
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+
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+Title: Ranching, Sport and Travel
+
+Author: Thomas Carson
+
+Release Date: January 16, 2007 [EBook #20382]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RANCHING, SPORT AND TRAVEL ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Susan Skinner, Janet Blenkinship and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: ONE OF THE "BOYS."
+
+(Portrait. See p. 125.)
+
+Frontispiece.]
+
+
+
+
+RANCHING, SPORT AND TRAVEL
+
+BY
+
+THOMAS CARSON, F.R.G.S.
+
+
+WITH SIXTEEN ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+
+
+
+T. FISHER UNWIN
+
+LONDON             LEIPSIC
+Adelphi Terrace    Inselstrasse 20
+
+1911
+
+[_All Rights Reserved_]
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY NOTE
+
+
+This book is somewhat in the nature of an autobiography, covering as it
+does almost the whole of the Author's life. The main portion of the
+volume is devoted to cattle ranching in Arizona, New Mexico and Texas.
+The Author has also included a record of his travels abroad, which he
+hopes will prove to be not uninteresting; and a chapter devoted to a
+description of tea planting in India.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+  CHAP.                                                             PAGE
+
+  I. TEA PLANTING                                                     13
+
+  In Cachar--Apprenticeship--Tea Planting described--Polo
+  --In Sylhet--Pilgrims at Sacred Pool--Wild
+  Game--Amusements--Rainfall--Return to Cachar--Scottpore
+  --Snakes--A Haunted Tree--Hill Tribes--Selecting
+  a Location--Return to England.
+
+  II. CATTLE RANCHING IN ARIZONA                                      42
+
+  Leave for United States of America--Iowa--New
+  Mexico--Real Estate Speculation--Gambling--Billy
+  the Kid--Start Ranching in Arizona--Description of
+  Country--Apache and other Indians--Fauna--Branding
+  Cattle--Ranch Notes--Mexicans--Politics--Summer
+  Camp--Winter Camp--Fishing and
+  Shooting--Indian Troubles.
+
+  III. CATTLE RANCHING IN ARIZONA (_continued_)                       81
+
+  The Cowboy--Accoutrements and Weapons--Desert
+  Plants--Politics and Perjury--Mavericks--Mormons--Bog
+  Riding.
+
+  IV. ODDS AND ENDS                                                  103
+
+  Scent and Instinct--Mules--Roping Contests--Antelopes
+  --The Skunk--Garnets--Leave Arizona.
+
+  V. RANCHING IN NEW MEXICO                                          117
+
+  The Scottish Company--My Difficulties and Dangers--Mustang
+  Hunting--Round-up described--Shipping
+  Cattle--Railroad Accidents--Close out Scotch Company's
+  Interests.
+
+  VI. ODDS AND ENDS                                                  152
+
+  Summer Round-up Notes--Night Guarding--Stampedes--Bronco
+  Busting--Cattle Branding, etc.
+
+  VII. ON MY OWN RANCH                                               170
+
+  Locating--Plans--Prairie Fires and Guards--Bulls--Trading
+  --Successful Methods--Loco-weed--Sale of Ranch.
+
+  VIII. ODDS AND ENDS                                                198
+
+  The "Staked Plains"--High Winds--Lobo Wolves--Branding
+  --Cows--Black Jack--Lightning and Hail--Classing
+  Cattle--Conventions--"Cutting" versus
+  Polo--Bull-Fight--Prize-Fights--River and Sea
+  Fishing--Sharks.
+
+  IX. IN AMARILLO                                                    226
+
+  Purchase of Lots--Building--Boosting a Town.
+
+  X. FIRST TOUR ABROAD                                               234
+
+  Mexico--Guatemala--Salvador--Panama--Colombia--Venezuela
+  --Jamaica--Cuba--Fire in Amarillo--Rebuilding.
+
+  XI. SECOND TOUR ABROAD                                             250
+
+  Bermudas--Switzerland--Italy--Monte Carlo--Algiers
+  --Morocco--Spain--Biarritz and Pau.
+
+  XII. THIRD TOUR ABROAD                                             256
+
+  Salt Lake City--Canada--Vancouver--Hawaii--Fiji
+  --Australia--New   Zealand--Tasmania--Summer at Home.
+
+  XIII. FOURTH TOUR ABROAD                                           270
+
+  Yucatan--Honduras--Costa Rica--Panama--Equador--Peru
+  --Chile--Argentina--Brazil--Teneriffe.
+
+  XIV. FIFTH TOUR ABROAD                                             287
+
+  California--Honolulu--Japan--China--Singapore--Burmah
+  --India--Ceylon--The End.
+
+  APPENDIX                                                           317
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+  ONE OF THE "BOYS" (_see_ page 125)                       _Frontispiece_
+
+  PLUCKING TEA LEAF                                                   20
+
+  NAGAS                                                               37
+
+  ROPING A GRIZZLY                                                    70
+
+  A SHOOTING SCRAPE                                                   76
+
+  ONE OF OUR MEN, TO SHOW HANG OF SIX-SHOOTER                         78
+
+  1883 IN ARIZONA, AUTHOR AND PARTY                                   80
+
+  WOUND UP, HORSE TANGLED IN ROPE                                    106
+
+  WATERING A HERD                                                    116
+
+  HERD ON TRAIL, SHOWING LEAD STEER                                  137
+
+  CHANGING HORSES                                                    153
+
+  A REAL BAD ONE                                                     164
+
+  BREAKING THE PRAIRIE                                               230
+
+  FIRST CROP--MILO MAIZE                                             230
+
+  LLAMAS AS PACK ANIMALS                                             279
+
+  DRIFTING SAND DUNE, ONE OF THOUSANDS                               279
+
+  PERUVIAN RUINS. NOTE DIMENSIONS OF STONES AND LOCKING SYSTEM       281
+
+  PALACE OF MAHARANA OF UDAIPUR                                      310
+
+
+
+
+RANCHING, SPORT AND TRAVEL
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+TEA PLANTING
+
+     In Cachar--Apprenticeship--Tea Planting described--Polo--In
+     Sylhet--Pilgrims at Sacred Pool--Wild
+     Game--Amusements--Rainfall--Return to Cachar--Scottpore--Snakes--A
+     Haunted Tree--Hill Tribes--Selecting a Location--Return to England.
+
+
+Having no inclination for the seclusion and drudgery of office work,
+determined to lead a country life of some kind or other, and even then
+having a longing desire to roam the world and see foreign countries, I
+had arranged to accompany a friend to the Comoro Islands, north of
+Madagascar; but changing my mind and accepting the better advice of
+friends, my start was made, not to the Comoro Islands, but to India and
+the tea district of Cachar. Accordingly the age of twenty-two and the
+year 1876 saw me on board a steamer bound for Calcutta.
+
+Steamers were slow sailers in those days, and it was a long trip via
+Gibraltar, Suez, Malta, the Canal and Point de Galle; but it was all
+very interesting to me.
+
+Near Point de Galle we witnessed from the steamer a remarkable sight, a
+desperate fight, it seemed to be a fight and not play, between a
+sea-serpent, which seemed to be about fifteen feet long, and a huge ray.
+The battle was fought on the surface of the water and even out of it, as
+the ray several times threw himself into the air. How it ended we could
+not see. Anyway we had seen the sea-serpent, though not the fabulous
+monster so often written about, and yet whose existence cannot be
+disproved. The sea-serpent's tail is flattened.
+
+At Calcutta I visited a tea firm, who sent me up to Cachar to help at
+one of the gardens till a vacancy should occur. Calcutta, by the way, is
+or was overrun by jackals at night. They are the scavengers of the town
+and hunt in packs through the streets, their wolfish yelling being a
+little disconcerting to a stranger.
+
+It was a long twelve days, but again a very interesting journey, in a
+native river boat, four rowers (or towers), to my destination. I had a
+servant with me, who proved a good, efficient cook and attendant. It was
+rather trying to the "griffin" to notice, floating in the river, corpses
+of natives, frequently perched upon by hungry vultures.
+
+The tea-garden selected for me was Narainpore, successfully managed by a
+fellow-countryman, who proved to be a capital chap and who made my stay
+with him very pleasant. Narainpore was one of the oldest gardens, on
+teelah (hilly) land and quite healthy. There I gave what little help I
+could, picked up some of the lingo, and learned a good deal about the
+planting, growth and manufacture of tea. Neighbours were plentiful and
+life quite sociable. Twice a week in the cold weather we played polo,
+sometimes with Munipoories, a hill tribe whose national game it is, and
+who were then the undoubted champions. The Regent Senaputti was a keen
+player, and very picturesque in his costume of green velvet zouave
+jacket, salmon-pink silk dhotee and pink silk turban. In Munipoor even
+the children have their weekly polo matches. They breed ponies specially
+for the game, and use them for nothing else, nor would they sell their
+best. Still, we rode Munipoor "tats" costing us from 50 rupees to 100.
+They were exceedingly small, averaging not eleven hands high, but wiry,
+active, speedy, full of grit, and seemed to love the game. As the game
+was there played, seven formed a side, the field was twice as large as
+now and there were no goals. The ball had to be simply driven over the
+end line to count a score.
+
+It may be remarked here that the great Akbar was so fond of polo, but
+otherwise so busy, that he played the game at night with luminous balls.
+
+These Munipoories were a very fine race of people, much lighter of
+colour than their neighbouring tribes, very stately and dignified in
+their bearing, and thorough sportsmen. Many of their women were really
+handsome, and the girls, with red hibiscus blossoms stuck in their
+jet-black hair, and their merry, laughing faces and graceful figures,
+were altogether quite attractive to the Sahib Log.
+
+But to return to tea. Our bungalow was of the usual type, consisting of
+cement floor, roof of crossed bamboos and two feet of sun-grass thatch,
+supported by immense teak posts, hard as iron and bidding defiance to
+the white ants. The walls were of mats. Tea-gardens usually had a
+surface of 300 to 1000 acres; some were on comparatively level ground,
+some on hilly (teelah) land. These teelahs were always carefully
+terraced to prevent the wash of soil and permit cultivation. The plants
+were spaced about three to six feet apart, according to whether they
+were of the Chinese, the hybrid, or the pure indigenous breed, the last
+being the largest, in its native state developing to the dimensions of a
+small tree.
+
+I may as well here at once give a short sketch of the principal features
+of tea planting and manufacture, which will show what the duties of a
+planter are, and how various are the occupations and operations
+embraced. One must necessarily first have labour (coolies). These are
+recruited in certain districts of India, usually by sending good
+reliable men, already in your employ, to their home country, under a
+contract to pay them so much a head for every coolie they can persuade
+(by lies or otherwise) to come to your garden. The coolies must then
+bind themselves to work for you for, say, three to four years. They are
+paid for their work, not much it is true, but enough to support them
+with comfort; the men about three annas (or fourpence) a day, the women
+two annas (or threepence). As they get to know their work and become
+expert, the good men will earn as much as six annas a day, and some of
+the women, when plucking leaf, about the same. This is more than
+abundant for these people. They not only have every comfort, but they
+become rich, so that in a few years they are able to rest on their
+earnings, and work only at their convenience and when they feel like it.
+They are supplied with nothing, neither food nor clothing; medicine
+alone is free to them. The native staff of a garden consists of, say,
+two baboos, or book-keepers and clerks, a doctor baboo, sirdars or
+overseers, and chowkidars or line watchmen. A sirdar accompanies and has
+charge of each gang of coolies on whatever branch of work. One is also
+in charge of the factory or tea-house.
+
+Plant growth ceases about the end of October. Then cold-weather work
+begins, including the great and important operation of pruning, which
+requires a large force and will occupy most of the winter. Also
+charcoal-burning for next season's supply; road-making, building and
+repairing, jungle-cutting, bridge-building, and nursery-making: that is,
+preparing with great care beds in which the seed will be planted early
+in spring. Cultivation is also, of course, carried on; it can never be
+overdone. In the factory, some men are busy putting together or
+manufacturing new tea-boxes, lining them carefully with lead, which
+needs close attention, as the smallest hole in the lining of a tea-chest
+will cause serious injury to the contents.
+
+When spring opens and the first glorious "flush" is on the bushes, there
+is a readjustment of labour. Pluckers begin to gather the leaf, and as
+the season advances more pluckers are needed, till possibly every man,
+woman and child may be called on for this operation alone, it being so
+important that the leaf flush does not get ahead and out of control, so
+that the leaf would get tough and hard and less fit for manufacture;
+but cultivation is almost equally important, and every available
+labourer is kept hard at it.
+
+What a pleasure it is to watch a good expert workman, be he carpenter,
+bricklayer, ploughman, blacksmith, or only an Irish navvy. In even the
+humblest of these callings the evidence of much training, practice or
+long apprenticeship is noticeable. To an amateur who has tried such work
+himself it will soon be apparent how crude his efforts are, how little
+he knows of the apparently simple operation. The navvy seems to work
+slowly; but he knows well, because his task is a day-long one, that his
+forces must be economised, that over-exertion must be avoided. This
+lesson was brought home to me when exasperated by the seeming laziness
+of the coolie cultivators, I would seize a man's hoe and fly at the
+work, hoe vigorously for perhaps five minutes, swear at the man for his
+lack of strenuousness, then retire and find myself puffing and blowing
+and almost in a state of collapse.
+
+If an addition or extension is being made to the garden, the already cut
+jungle has to be burnt and the ground cleared in early spring, the soil
+broken up and staked: that is, small sticks put in regular rows and
+intervals to show where the young plants are to be put. Then when the
+rains have properly set in the actual planting begins. This is a work
+that requires a lot of labour and close and careful superintendence.
+Imagine what it means to plant out 100 acres of ground, the plants set
+only three or four feet apart! The right plucking of the leaf calls for
+equally careful looking after. The women are paid by the amount or
+weight they pluck, so they are very liable to pluck carelessly and so
+damage the succeeding flush, or they may gather a lot of old leaf
+unsuited for manufacturing purposes. In short, every detail of work,
+even cultivation, demands close supervision and the whole attention of
+the planter.
+
+When the new-plucked leaf is brought home it is spread out to wither in
+suitably-built sheds. (Here begins the tea-maker's responsibility.) Then
+it must be rolled, by hand or by machinery; fermented, and fired or
+dried over charcoal ovens; separated in its different classes, the
+younger the leaf bud the more valuable the tea. It is then packed in
+boxes for market, and sampled by the planter. He does this by weighing a
+tiny quantity of each class or grade of tea into separate cups, pouring
+boiling water on them, and then tasting the liquor by sipping a little
+into the mouth, not to be swallowed, but ejected again.
+
+[Illustration: PLUCKING TEA LEAF.]
+
+All this will give an idea of the variety of duties of a tea-planter. He
+has no time for shooting, polo, or visiting during the busy season. But
+at mid-winter the great annual Mela takes place at the station, the
+local seat of Government. The Mela lasts a couple of weeks, and it is a
+season of fun and jollity with both planters and natives. There were two
+or three social clubs in Silchar; horse and pony racing, polo, cricket
+and football filled the day, dinner and sociability the night; and what
+nights! The amount of liquor consumed at these meetings was almost
+incredible.
+
+Nothing can look more beautiful or more gratifying to the eye of the
+owner than a tract of tea, pruned level as a table and topped with new
+fresh young leaf-shoots, four to eight inches high, in full flush, ready
+for the pluckers' nimble fingers.
+
+At the end of one year I was offered and accepted the position of
+assistant at a Sylhet garden, called Kessoregool, the property
+consisting of three distinct gardens, the principal one being directly
+overseered by the manager, an American. He, of course, was my superior.
+My charge was the Lucky Cherra Gardens, some few miles away. There I
+spent two years, learning what I could of the business, but without the
+advantage of European society; in fact, the Burra Sahib and myself were
+almost the only whites in the district, and as he was drunk quite half
+the time, and we did not pull very well together, I was left to my own
+resources. I found amusement in various ways. There was no polo, but
+some of the native zemindars (landed proprietors) were always ready to
+get up a beat for leopards, tigers, deer and pig. Their method was
+simply to drive the game into a net corral and spear them to death. The
+Government Keddas, under Colonel Nuttal, were also not far away in hill
+Tipperah, and it was intensely interesting to watch operations. Close to
+my garden also was a sacred pool and a very beautiful waterfall. This
+was visited twice a year by immense numbers of natives, some from great
+distances, for it was a famous and renowned place of pilgrimage. It
+could only be approached through my garden; and as there was no wagon
+road, the pilgrims were always open to inspection, so to speak; and they
+were well worth inspection, as among them were many races, all ages,
+both sexes, every caste or jat; robes, turbans and cupras of every shape
+and colour; fakirs and wonder-workers, and beggars galore. Here, and on
+such an occasion only, could the sahib see face to face the harems of
+the wealthy natives, consisting of women who at no other time showed
+themselves out of doors. Being the only sahib present I had all the "fun
+of the fair" to myself, but always regretted the want of a companion to
+share it with me.
+
+As to wild game, there were lots of jungle fowl (original stock of our
+familiar barn-door cocks and hens), a few pigeons, Argus pheasants,
+small barking deer, pigs, sambur, barrasingha, metnas, crocodiles,
+leopards, tigers, bears and elephants; but I had little time for
+shooting and it was expensive work, the jungle being so thick that
+riding elephants were quite necessary. If keen enough, one could sit all
+night on a machan in a tree near a recent "kill," on the chance of
+Stripes showing himself; but it never appealed to me much, that kind of
+sport. If a tiger was raiding the cattle I would poison the "kill" with
+strychnine. In this way I secured several very fine animals, getting two
+at one time, so successfully poisoned that their bodies actually lay on
+the dead bullock. One time I shot an enormous python, some eighteen feet
+in length, which took several men to carry home. Monkeys were plentiful
+and of several kinds. I was very fond of wandering amongst the high-tree
+jungle and quietly watching their antics. In the dense forest there is
+little undergrowth, so that one can move about freely and study the
+extraordinary forms of vegetation displayed. Ticks and leeches are to
+be dreaded--a perfect nuisance. If you sit down or pause for a few
+moments where no leeches are in sight, suddenly and quickly they will
+appear marching on you, or at you, at a gallop.
+
+The popular idea of a wealth of flowers in tropical jungles is a
+misconception. In tree jungle no flowers are to be found, or at any rate
+they are not visible. But if one can by some means attain an elevation
+and so be able to overlook the tree-tops, he will probably be rewarded
+with a wonderful display, as many jungle trees are glorified with crowns
+of gorgeous colours. There will he also discover the honey-suckers,
+moths, butterflies, the beetles, and all the other insect brood which he
+had also vainly looked for before. The fruits are likewise borne aloft,
+and therefore at the proper time these tree-tops will be the haunt of
+the monkeys, the parrots, the bats, the toucans, and all frugivorous
+creation.
+
+Of all fruits the durian is the most delicious. Such is the universal
+opinion of men, including A. R. Wallace, who have had the opportunity of
+becoming familiar with it. It is purely tropical, grows on a lofty tree,
+is round and nearly as large as a cocoanut. A thick and tough rind
+protects the delicacy contained within. When opened five cells are
+revealed, satiny white, containing masses of cream-coloured pulp. This
+pulp is the edible portion and has an indescribable flavour and
+consistence. You can safely eat all you want of it, and the more you eat
+the more you will want. To eat durian, as Mr Wallace says, is alone
+worth a voyage to the East. But it has one strange quality--it smells so
+badly as to be at first almost nauseating; some people even can never
+bring themselves to touch it. Once this repulsion is mastered the fruit
+will probably be preferred to all other foods. The natives give it
+honourable titles, exalt it, and even wax poetical over it.
+
+Of course we all know the multitudinous uses of the bamboo. This grass
+is one of the most wonderful, beautiful and useful of Nature's gifts to
+uncivilized man. And yet one more use has been found for it. In the East
+a new industry has sprung up, viz., the making of "Panama" hats of
+bamboo strips or threads. In texture and pliability these hats are said
+to even surpass the genuine "Panamas," are absolutely impervious to
+rain, and can be produced at a much lower cost.
+
+The Looshais killed pigs, and even tigers, by ingeniously setting
+poisoned arrows in the woods, which were released by the animals
+pressing on a string. One of my coolies was unfortunate enough to be
+shot and killed in this way.
+
+Growing on decayed tree stumps I frequently found a saprophyte
+(_hymenophallus_), much larger than its English representative, indeed a
+monster in comparison, and possessing a vile and most odious smell, yet
+attractive to certain depraved insects.
+
+I made a very fine collection of butterflies, moths and beetles, which,
+however, was entirely destroyed by worms or ants during its passage to
+England. The magnificent Atlas moth was common in Sylhet and Cachar.
+What an extraordinarily beautiful creature it is, sometimes so large as
+to cover a dinner-plate. I never was privileged to see it fly. It seemed
+to be always in a languid or torpid condition.
+
+Thunderstorms occur almost daily during the wet season. By lightning I
+lost several people. In one case, whilst standing watching a man remove
+seedlings from a nursery bed, standing indeed immediately behind and
+close to him, there came a thrilling flash of lightning. It shook myself
+as well as several women who stood by. The man in front of me, who had
+been sitting on his haunches with a steel-ribbed umbrella over him,
+remained silent and still. At last I called on him to continue his work
+and pulled back the umbrella to see his face. He was stone dead.
+Examination showed a small blackish spot where the steel rib had rested
+and conveyed the fatal shock.
+
+The approach of the daily rainstorm, usually about noon, was a
+remarkable sight. Immense fan-shaped, thunderous-looking clouds would
+come rolling up, billow upon billow, travelling at great speed and
+accompanied by terrific wind. A flash of lightning and a crashing peal
+of thunder and the deluge began, literally a deluge. The rainfall
+averaged about 180 inches in seven months. At Cherrapunji, in the Kassia
+Hills, within sight of my place and only about twenty miles distant, the
+rainfall was and is the greatest in the world, no other district
+approaching it in this respect, viz., averaging per annum 450 inches;
+greatest recorded over 900 inches; and there is a record of _one_ month,
+July, of a fall of nearly 400 inches; yet all this precipitation takes
+place during the six or seven wet months, the rest of the year being
+absolutely dry and rainless. These measurements are recorded at the
+Government Observatory Station and need not be disputed. It may readily
+be supposed that the wet season, summer, with its high temperature and
+damp atmosphere, was very trying to the European, and even to the
+imported coolies. Imagine living for six continuous months in the
+hottest palm-house in Kew Gardens; yet the planter is out and about all
+day long; nearly always on pony back, however, an enormously thick solah
+toppee hat or a heavy white umbrella protecting his head. The dry, or
+cold season, however, was delightful.
+
+Close to Lucky Cherra Garden was a tract of bustee land on which some
+Bengali cultivators grew rice and other crops. Our Company's boundary
+line in some way conflicted with theirs, and a dispute arose which soon
+developed into a series of, first, most comical mix-ups, and afterwards
+into desperate "lathi" fights. The land in dispute was being hurriedly
+ploughed by buffalo teams belonging to the Bengalis; to uphold our claim
+I also secured teams and put them to ploughing on the same piece of
+ground. This could only lead to one thing--as said before, terrific
+lathi fights between the teamsters. For several days I went down to see
+the fun, taking with me a number of the stoutest coolies on the garden.
+The men seemed to rather enjoy the sport, though a lick from a lathi (a
+formidable tough, hard and heavy cane) was far from a joke. Finally the
+bustee-wallahs agreed to stop operations and await legal judgment.
+
+After eighteen months I was suddenly left in sole charge of all the
+Company's gardens, the Burra Sahib having finally succumbed to drink;
+but I was not long left in charge, being soon relieved by a more
+experienced man. Shortly after I was ordered to Scottpore Garden in
+Cachar, the manager of which, a particularly fine man and a great
+friend of mine, had suffered the awful death of being pierced by the
+very sharp end of a heavy, newly-cut bamboo, which he seems to have
+ridden against in the dark. He always rode at great speed, and he too,
+in this way, was a victim of drink. The tremendously high death-rate
+amongst planters was directly due to this fatal habit.
+
+Scottpore was a new (young) garden, not teelah, but level land, having
+extremely rich soil. The bushes showed strong growth and there were no
+"vacancies"; indeed it was a model plantation. Unfortunately, it had the
+character of extreme unhealthiness. Of my three predecessors two had
+died of fever and one as before mentioned. The coolie death-rate was
+shocking; so bad that, during my management, a Government Commission was
+sent to look into the situation, and the absolute closing of the garden
+was anticipated. The result was that I was debarred from recruiting and
+importing certain coolies from certain districts in India, they being
+peculiarly susceptible to fever and dysentery. Almost every day at
+morning muster the doctor reported so and so, or so many, dead, wiped
+off the roll. Naturally the place suffered from lack of labour, a
+further draining of the force being the absconding of coolies, running
+off, poor devils, to healthier places, and the stealing of my people by
+unscrupulous planters.
+
+On several occasions, when riding home on dark nights, have I detected
+white objects on the side of the road. Not a movement would be seen, not
+a sound or a breath heard, only an ominous, suspicious silence reigned;
+it meant that these were some of my people absconding, being perhaps led
+off by a pimp from another garden--and woe betide the pimp if caught. I
+would call out to them, and if they did not respond would go after them;
+but generally they were too scared to resist or to attempt further to
+escape; so I would drive them in front of me back to the garden, inspect
+them and take their names, try to find out who had put them up to it,
+etc., and dismiss them to the lines in charge of the night-watchman. You
+could not well punish them, though a good caning was administered
+sometimes to the men. Thus the plantation, instead of presenting a
+clean, well-cultivated appearance, had often that of an enormous
+hayfield; nevertheless the output and manufacture of tea was large and
+the quality good. All that I myself could and did take credit for was
+this "quality," as the prices obtained in Calcutta were the best of all
+the Company's gardens.
+
+At Scottpore there was no lack of neighbours. My bungalow was on two
+cross-roads, a half-way house so to speak; consequently someone was
+continually dropping in. Frequently three or four visitors would arrive
+unannounced for dinner; the house was always "wide open." Whisky, brandy
+and beer were always on the sideboard, and in my absence the bearer or
+khansamah was expected, as a matter of course, to offer refreshments to
+all comers. The planter's code of hospitality demanded this, but it was
+the financial ruin of the Chota Sahib, depending solely on his modest
+salary.
+
+At Scottpore I went in strong for vegetable, fruit and flower gardening,
+and not without success. Visitors came from a distance to view the
+flower-beds and eat my green peas, and I really think that I grew as
+fine pineapples and bananas as were produced anywhere. The pineapple of
+good stock and ripened on the plant is, I think, the most exquisite of
+all fruits. A really ripe pine contains no fibre. You cut the top off
+and sup the delicious mushy contents with a spoon.
+
+In such a hot, steamy climate as we had in these tea districts, the
+rapidity of growth of vegetation is, of course, remarkable. Bamboos
+illustrate this better than other plants, their growth being so much
+more noticeable, that of a young shoot amounting to as much as four
+inches in one night. It sometimes appeared to my imagination that the
+weeds and grass grew one foot in a like period, especially when short of
+labour. The planter usually takes a pride in the well-cultivated
+appearance of the garden in his charge; but how can one be proud if the
+weeds overtop the bushes? It may be appropriate here to note that
+eighty-five per cent. of the twenty-four hours' growth of plants occurs
+between 12 p.m. and 6 a.m.; during the noon hours the apparent growth
+almost entirely ceases.
+
+Garden coolies are generally Hindoos and are imported from far-off
+districts. The local peasantry of Bengal are mostly Mohammedans and do
+not work on tea-gardens, except on such jobs as cutting jungle,
+building, etc. They speak a somewhat different tongue, so that we had to
+understand Bengali as well as Hindustani. I may mention here that as
+Hindoos regard an egg as defiling, and Mohammedans despise an eater of
+pork, our love for ham and eggs alienates us from both these classes;
+what beasts we must be! The Hindoos and the Bengal Mussulmans are
+characterized by cringing servility, open insolence, or rude
+indifference. Contrast with this the Burmese agreeableness and
+affability, or the bearing of the Rajput and the Sikh. In those days the
+natives cringed before the Sahib Log much more than they do now. Then
+all had to put their umbrellas down on passing a sahib, and all had to
+leave the side-walk on the white man's approach; not that the law
+compelled them to do so, it was simply a custom enforced by their
+masters, in the large cities as well as in the mofussil.
+
+We thought it advisable at all costs to keep the coolies in a proper
+state of subjection. Thus, when on a certain occasion a coolie of mine
+raised his kodalie (hoe) to strike me I had to give him a very severe
+thrashing. Another time a man appeared somewhat insolent in his talk to
+me and I unfortunately hit him a blow on the body, from the effects of
+which he died next day. Some of these people suffer from enlarged
+spleens and even a slight jar on that part of their anatomy may prove
+fatal.
+
+A few more notes. Among the Sontals in Bengal the snake stone, found
+within the head of the Adjutant-bird, is applied to a snake bite exactly
+in the same way and with the same supposed results as the Texas
+madstone, an accretion found, it is said, in the system of a white stag.
+Many natives of India die from purely imaginary snake bites.
+
+In Oude there have been many instances verified, or at least impossible
+of contradiction, of so-called wolf-children, infants stolen by wolves
+and suckled by them, that go on all fours, eat only raw meat, and, of
+course, speak no language.
+
+The Nagas, a hill tribe and not very desirable neighbours, practise the
+refined custom of starving a dog, then supplying it with an enormous
+feed of rice; and when the stomach is properly distended, killing it,
+the half-digested mess forming the _bonne-bouche_ of the tribal feast.
+
+Snake stories are always effective. I have none to tell. My bungalow
+roof, the thatch, was at all times infested by snakes, some quite large.
+At night one frequently heard them gliding between the bamboos and
+grass, chasing mice, beetles, or perhaps lizards, and sometimes falling
+on the top of the mosquito bar, or even on the dinner-table; but these
+were probably harmless creatures, as most snakes are. The cobra was not
+common in Cachar. It may be said here that a snake's mouth opens
+crossways as well as vertically, and each side has the power of working
+independently, the teeth being re-curved backwards. Prey once in the
+jaws cannot escape, and the snake itself can only dispose of it in one
+way--downwards.
+
+At Scottpore I employed an elephant for certain work, such as hauling
+heavy posts out of the jungle. Sometimes his "little Mary" would trouble
+him, when a dose of castor oil would be effectively administered.
+Unfortunately, he misbehaved, ran amok, and tried to kill his mahout,
+and so that hatthi (elephant) had to be disposed of.
+
+When clearing jungle for a tea-garden the workmen sometimes come on a
+certain species of tree, of which they are in great dread. They cannot
+be induced to cut it down and so the tree remains. Such a one stood
+opposite my bungalow, a stately, handsome monarch of the forest. It was
+a sacred, or rather a haunted tree, but as its shade was injurious to
+tea-plant growth I was determined to have it destroyed. None of my
+people would touch it; so I sent over to a neighbour and explained the
+facts to him, requesting him to send over a gang of his men to do the
+deed. I was to see that they had no communication with my own people.
+Well, his men came and were put to work with axes. The result? Two of
+them died that day and the rest bolted. Yet this is not more
+extraordinary than people dying of imaginary snake bites.
+
+Shortly afterwards an incident occurred to still further strengthen the
+native belief that the tree was haunted. I had a very fine bull terrier
+which slept in the porch at night, the night-watchman also sleeping
+there. One time I was aroused by terrific yells from the dog, and called
+to the watchman to know the trouble. After apparently recovering from
+his fright he told me the devil had come from the tree and carried off
+the dog. The morning showed traces of a tiger's or leopard's pugs, and
+my poor terrier was of course never seen again.
+
+The hill tribes surrounding the valley of Cachar were the Kassias,
+Nagas, Kookies, Munipoories and Looshais, all of very similar type,
+except that the Munipoories were of somewhat lighter skin, were more
+civilized and handsomer. The Kassias were noted for their wonderful
+muscular development, no doubt accounted for by their being
+mountaineers, their poonjes (villages) being situated on the sides of
+high and steep mountains. All their market products, supplies, etc.,
+were packed up and down these hills in thoppas, a sort of baskets or
+chairs slung on the back by a band over the forehead. In this way even a
+heavy man would be carried up the steep mountain-side, and generally by
+a woman.
+
+Once, in later years, whilst in Mexico, near Crizaba, I was intensely
+surprised to meet in the forest a string of Indios going to market and
+using this identical thoppa; the similar cut of the hair across the
+forehead, the blanket and dress, the physical features, even the
+peculiar grunt emitted when carrying a weight, settled for me the
+long-disputed question of the origin of the Aztecs. In Venezuela I saw
+exactly the same type in Castro's Indian troops, as also in the Indian
+natives of Peru.
+
+[Illustration: NAGAS]
+
+The Kassias were fond of games, such as tossing the caber, putting the
+weight and throwing the hammer, apparently a tribal institution. The
+Kookies and Nagas were restless, warlike and troublesome, and addicted
+to head hunting. They periodically raided some tea-gardens to secure
+lead for bullets, and incidentally heads as trophies. Several planters
+had been thus massacred, and at outlying gardens there was always this
+dread and danger. On one occasion an urgent message was brought to me
+from such a garden, whose manager happened to be in Calcutta. His head
+baboo begged me to come over and take charge, if only to reassure the
+coolies, who had been running off into the jungle on the report of a
+threatened Naga raid. On going over I found the people tremendously
+excited, and most of them scared nearly to death. My presence seemed to
+allay their fright, though if the savages had come we could have done
+nothing, having only a few rifles in the place and the coolies totally
+demoralized. Luckily Mr Naga did not appear.
+
+The Looshais were a particularly warlike race, and gardens situated near
+their territory were supplied by Government with stands of arms and had
+stockades for defence in case of attack.
+
+The tea-planter's life was to me a very enjoyable one. There was lots of
+interesting work to be done, lots of sport and amusement, and lots of
+good fellows. The life promised to be an ideal one. For its enjoyment,
+however, indeed for its possibility, there is one essential--good
+health. Unfortunately that, during the whole period at Scottpore, was
+not mine; for the whole eighteen months fever had its grip on me;
+appetite was quite gone, and I subsisted on nothing but eggs, milk and
+whisky. Six months more would have done me up; but just at this time
+came the announcement of my father's death. For this reason and on
+account of my health I resigned the position and prepared to visit home,
+meaning to return, however, to India.
+
+I determined before going to look out a piece of land suitable for a
+small plantation; and, after much consideration, decided to hunt for it
+in Eastern Sylhet. So bidding adieu to friends I hied me down to the
+selected district, secured a good man as guide (a man of intelligence
+and intimate knowledge of the country was essential), and hired an
+elephant to carry us and break a way through the jungle. In the course
+of our search we came to a piece of seemingly swampy ground; the high
+reeds which had once covered it had been eaten down and the surface of
+the bog trodden on till it became caked, firm and almost solid. Our
+path was across it, but on coming to the edge the elephant refused to
+proceed. On the mahout urging him he roared and protested in every way,
+so much so that I was somewhat alarmed and suggested to the mahout that
+the elephant knew better than he the danger of proceeding. Finally,
+however, the elephant decided to try the ground, and carefully and
+slowly he made his way across, his great feet at every step depressing
+the surface, which perceptibly waved like thin ice all around him. I was
+prepared and ready to jump clear at the first sign of danger, for had we
+broken through we should have probably all disappeared in the bog.
+Hatthi was as much relieved as myself on reaching terra firma. My guide
+told me that this land had no bottom, that under the packed surface
+there was twenty feet of soft, black, loamy mud. This set me thinking. I
+was after something of this nature. In the course of the next day we
+came upon a somewhat similar piece of ground, some 300 acres in extent,
+still covered with the original reeds and other vegetation. The soil was
+in places exposed and was of a rich, dark brown loamy character. Taking
+a long ten-foot bamboo and pressing it firmly on the ground it could be
+forced nearly out of sight. That was enough for me. The object sought
+for was found. Further tests with a spade and bamboo were made at
+different points; deep drainage seemed practicable, and, what was quite
+important, a small navigable river bounded the property. Then I hunted
+up a native surveyor, traced the proposed boundaries, got numbers and
+data, etc., to enable me to send my application to the proper quarter,
+which I soon afterwards did, making a money deposit in part payment to
+the Government. My task was completed, and I at once started for
+Calcutta and home.
+
+As things turned out I never returned to the country and so had to
+abandon my rights, etc.; but in support of my judgment I was very much
+gratified to learn years afterwards that someone else had secured and
+developed this particular piece of land as a tea-garden, and that it had
+turned out to be the most valuable, much the most valuable, piece of tea
+land, acre for acre, in the whole country. Often and bitterly since then
+have I regretted not being able to return and develop and operate this
+ideal location. More than that, I had learned the tea-growing business,
+had devoted over three years to its careful study, felt myself in every
+way competent, and had found a life in many ways suited to my tastes.
+All this had to be abandoned. In India the white man lives in great
+luxury. He has a great staff of servants, his every whim and wish is
+anticipated and satisfied, his comfort watched over. To leave _this_,
+to go straight out to the West, the wild and woolly West, where servants
+were not! The very suggestion of such a thing to me on leaving India
+would have received no consideration whatever. It would have seemed
+utterly impossible, but "El Hombre propone y el Deos depone" as the
+Mexicans say.
+
+During the whole four years' stay in India I was practically barred from
+ladies' society, nearly all the planters being unmarried men. Alas! for
+twenty years longer of my life this very unfortunate and demoralizing
+condition was to continue.
+
+There were no railroads then to Cachar and no steamers, so I again
+performed the journey to Calcutta in a native boat, and there,
+by-the-bye, I witnessed the sight for the first time of an apparent
+lunatic playing a game called Golf; a game which later was to be more
+familiar to me, and myself to become one of the greatest lunatics of
+all. The run home was in no way remarkable, except for the intense
+anticipated pleasure of again seeing the old country.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+CATTLE RANCHING IN ARIZONA
+
+     Leave for United States of America--Iowa--New Mexico--Real Estate
+     Speculation--Gambling--Billy the Kid--Start Ranching in
+     Arizona--Description of Country--Apache and other
+     Indians--Fauna--Branding Cattle--Ranch
+     Notes--Mexicans--Politics--Summer Camp--Winter Camp--Fishing and
+     Shooting--Indian Troubles.
+
+
+My health seemed to have reached a more serious condition than imagined;
+and so on the advice of my friends, but with much regret, I decided to
+henceforth cast my lot in a more bracing climate. Having no profession,
+and hating trade in any form, the choice was limited and confined to
+live stock or crop farming of one kind or another.
+
+Accordingly, after six months at home and on complete recovery of
+health, I took my way to the United States of America, first to Lemars
+in Iowa, where was a well-known colony of Britishers, said Britishers
+consisting almost entirely of the gentlemen class, some with much money,
+some with little, none of them with much knowledge of practical business
+life or affairs, all of them with the idea of social superiority over
+the natives, which they very foolishly showed. Sport, not work, occupied
+their whole time and attention. Altogether it seemed that this was no
+place for one who had to push his fortunes. The climate, too, seemed to
+be far from agreeable, in summer being very hot, in winter very cold;
+so, with another man, I decided to go further west and south, to the
+sheep and cattle country of New Mexico; not that I had any knowledge of
+sheep or cattle, hardly knowing the one from the other; but the nature
+of Ranch life (Ranch with a big R) and the romance attaching to it had
+much to do with my determination.
+
+Arrived in New Mexico I went to live with a sheepman--a practical
+sheepman from Australia--to study the industry and see how I liked it.
+In the neighbourhood was a cattle ranch and a lot of cowboys. I saw much
+of _their_ life, and was so attracted by it that the sheep proposition
+was finally abandoned as unsuitable. Still, I was very undecided, knew
+little of the ways of the country and still less of the cattle business.
+I moved to the small town of Las Vegas, then about the western end of
+the Santa Fe railroad. Here I stayed six months, making acquaintances
+and listening to others' experiences.
+
+Las Vegas was then a true frontier town. It was "booming," full of life
+and all kinds of people, money plentiful, saloons, gambling-dens and
+dance-halls "wide open." Real Estate was moving freely, prices
+advancing, speculation rife, and--I caught the infection! A few
+successful deals gave me courage and tempted me further. I became a real
+gambler. On some deals I made tremendous profits. I even owned a saloon
+and gambling-hall, which paid me a huge rental and gave me my drinks
+free! The world looked "easy."
+
+Not content with Las Vegas, I followed the road to Albuquerque and
+Socorro, had some deals there and spent my evenings playing poker, faro
+and monte with the best and "toughest" of them. Santa Fe, the capital,
+was then as much a "hell" as Las Vegas.
+
+Let me try to describe one of these gambling resorts. A long, low room,
+probably a saloon, with the pretentious bar in front; tables on either
+side of the room, and an eager group round each one, the game being
+roulette, faro, highball, poker, crapps or monte. The dealers, or
+professional gamblers, are easily distinguished. Their dress consists
+invariably of a well-laundered "biled" (white) shirt, huge diamond stud
+in front, no collar or tie, perhaps a silk handkerchief tied loosely
+round the neck, and an open unbuttoned waistcoat. They are necessarily
+cool, wide-awake, self-possessed men. All in this room are chewing
+tobacco and distributing the results freely on the floor. Now and then
+the dealers call for drinks all round, perhaps to keep the company
+together and encourage play. But poker, the royal game, the best of all
+gambling games, is generally played in a retired room, where quietness
+and some privacy are secured. Mere idlers and "bums" are not wanted
+around; perhaps the room is a little cleaner, but the floor is littered,
+if the game has lasted long, with dozens of already used and abandoned
+packs of cards. At Las Vegas the majority of the players were cowboys
+and cattlemen; at Socorro miners and prospectors; at Albuquerque all
+kinds; at Santa Fe politicians and officials and Mexicans, but Chinamen,
+always a few Chinamen, everywhere; and what varied types of men one rubs
+shoulders with! The cowpunchers, probably pretty well "loaded" (tipsy),
+the "prominent" lawyer, the horny-handed miner, the inscrutable "John";
+the scout, or frontier man, with hair long as a woman's; the half-breed
+Mexican or greaser elbowing a don of pure Castilian blood; the men all
+"packing" guns (six-shooters), some in the pocket, some displayed
+openly. The dealer, of course, has his lying handy under the table; but
+shooting scrapes are rare. If there is any trouble it will be settled
+somewhere else afterwards.
+
+But things took a turn; slackness, then actual depression in Real Estate
+values set in, and oh! how quickly. Like many others, I got scared and
+hastened to "get out." It was almost too late, not quite. On cleaning
+up, my financial position was just about the same as at the beginning of
+the campaign. It was a lesson, a valuable experience; but I admit that
+Real Estate speculation threw a glamour over me that still remains. It
+is the way to wealth for the man who knows how to go about it.
+
+About this time two Englishmen arrived in Las Vegas, and we soon got
+acquainted. One could easily see that they were not tenderfeet. On the
+contrary, they appeared to be shrewd, practical men of affairs. They had
+been cattle ranching up north for some years, had a good knowledge of
+the business, and were "good fellows." They had come south to look out a
+cattle ranch and continue in the business. They wanted a little more
+capital, which seemed my opportunity, and the upshot was that we formed
+a partnership, for good or for ill, which lasted for many years (over
+twelve), but which was never financially successful. Considering my
+entire ignorance of cattle affairs, and having abounding confidence in
+my two partners, I agreed to leave the entire control and management in
+their hands.
+
+It was about this time (1883) that I was fortunate enough to meet at
+Fort Sumner the then great Western celebrity, "Billy the Kid." Billy was
+a young cowboy who started wrong by using his gun on some trivial
+occasion. Like all, or at least many, young fellows of his age he wanted
+to appear a "bad man." One shooting scrape led to another; he became an
+outlaw; cattle troubles, and finally the Lincoln County War, in which he
+took a leading part, gave him every opportunity for his now murdering
+propensities, so that soon the tally of his victims amounted to some
+twenty-five lives. The Lincoln County New Mexico "War," in which it is
+believed that first to last over 200 men were killed, was purely a
+cattleman's war, but the most terrible and bloody that ever took place
+in the West. New Mexico was at that time probably the most lawless
+country in the world.
+
+Only a month after my meeting Billy in Fort Sumner he was killed there,
+not in his "boots," but in his stockings, by Sheriff Pat Garret. He was
+shot practically in his bed and given no "show." His age when killed was
+only twenty-three years. There were afterwards many other "kids" emulous
+of Billy's renown, because of which, and their youthfulness, they were
+always the most dangerous of men.
+
+Our senior partner, not satisfied with New Mexico, went out to Arizona
+for a look round, liked the prospect, and decided to locate there, so we
+moved out accordingly. Arizona (Arida Zona) was at this time a
+practically new and unoccupied territory; that is, though there were a
+few Mexicans, a few Mormons and a great many Indians, a few sheep and
+fewer cattle, it could not be called a settled country, and most of the
+grazing land was in a virgin state.
+
+My partner had bought out a Mexican's rights, his cattle, water-claims,
+ranches, etc., located at the Cienega in Apache county, near the
+head-waters of the Little Colorado River. To close the deal part payment
+in advance had to be made; and to ensure promptness the paper was given
+to my care to be delivered to the seller as quickly as possible.
+Accordingly I travelled by train to the nearest railroad point,
+Holbrook, found an army ambulance about to convey the commanding officer
+to Camp Apache, and he was good enough to allow me to accompany him part
+of the way. It was a great advantage to me, as otherwise there was no
+conveyance, nor had I a horse or any means of getting to the ranch,
+about eighty miles. Judging from the colonel's armed guard and the fact
+of travelling at night, it occurred to me that something was wrong, and
+on questioning him he told me that he would not take any "chances," that
+the Apaches were "out" on the war-path, but that they never attacked in
+the dark. This lent more interest to the trip, though it was interesting
+enough to me simply to see the nature of the country where we had
+decided to make our home. We got through all right. Next morning I hired
+a horse and reached the ranch the same day.
+
+As this was to be our country for many years to come, it will be well to
+describe its physical features, etc. Arizona, of course, is a huge
+territory, some 400 by 350 miles. It embraces pure unadulterated desert
+regions in the west; a large forest tract in the centre; the rest has a
+semi-arid character, short, scattering grass all over it; to the eye of
+a stranger a dreary and desolate region! The east central part, where we
+were, has a general elevation of 4000 to 6000 feet above sea-level, so
+that the fierce summer heat is tempered to some extent, especially after
+sundown. In winter there were snowstorms and severe cold, but the snow
+did not lie long, except in the mountains, where it reached a depth of
+several feet.
+
+The Little Colorado River (Colorado Chiquito), an affluent of the
+Greater River, had its headquarters in the mountains, south of our
+ranch. It was a small stream, bright and clear, and full of speckled
+trout in its upper part; lower down most of the time dry; at other times
+a flood of red muddy water, or a succession of small, shallow pools of a
+boggy, quicksandy nature, that ultimately cost us many thousands of
+cattle. The western boundary of Arizona is the Big Colorado River.
+Where the Santa Fe railroad crosses it at the Needles is one of the
+hottest places in North America. In summer the temperature runs up to as
+high as 120 degrees Fahr., and I have even heard it asserted to go to
+125 degrees in the shade; and I cannot doubt it, as even on our own
+ranch the thermometer often recorded 110 degrees; that at an elevation
+of 4000 feet, whereas the Needles' elevation above sea-level is only a
+few hundreds. At Jacobabad, India, the greatest heat recorded is 126
+degrees, and at Kashan, in Persia, a month--August--averaged 127
+degrees, supposed to be the hottest place on earth.
+
+Above the Needles begins or ends the very wonderful Grand Canon,
+extending north for 270 miles, its depth in places being as much as 6000
+feet, and that at certain points almost precipitously. The wonderful
+colouring of the rocks, combined with the overpowering grandeur of it,
+make it one of the most impressive and unique sights of the world.
+
+Now, stop and think what that is--2000 yards! say a mile; and imagine
+the effect on a stranger when he first approaches it, which he will
+generally do without warning--nothing, absolutely nothing, to indicate
+the presence of this wonderful gorge till he arrives at its very brink.
+Its aspect is always changing according to the hour of day, the period
+of the year, the atmospheric conditions. The air is dry and bracing at
+all times; and as pure, clear and free from dust or germs as probably
+can be found anywhere on earth. The panorama may be described as
+"_wunderschoen_." Anyone of sensibility will sit on the rock-rim for
+hours, possibly days, in dumb contemplation of the beauty and immensity.
+No one has yet, not even the most eloquent writer, been quite able to
+express his feelings and sentiments, though many have attempted to do so
+in the hotel register; some of the greatest poets and thinkers admitting
+in a few lines their utter inability. Our Colorado Chiquito in its lower
+parts has an equally romantic aspect.
+
+Close to our ranch was another of Nature's wonders, a petrified forest,
+quite unique in that the exposed tree trunks are solid masses of agate,
+chalcedony, jasper, opal and other silicate crystals, the variety of
+whose colouring, with their natural brilliancy, makes a wonderfully
+beautiful combination. These trees are supposed to have been the Norfolk
+Island pine, a tree now extinct, are of large dimensions, all prostrate,
+lying in no particular order, and all broken up into large or smaller
+sections. Many carloads have been removed and shipped to Eastern
+factories, where the sections are sawn through and polished, and the
+most lovely table tops, etc., imaginable produced. One must beware of
+rattlesnakes when prowling about these "ruins."
+
+To complete the physical description of Arizona territory something must
+be said of the pine-clad mountain range to the south of us. The bulk of
+this area constituted the Apache Indian Reservation. It was reserved for
+these Indians as a hunting-ground as well as a home. No one else was
+allowed to settle within its boundaries, or graze their sheep or cattle
+there. It was truly a hunter's paradise, being largely covered with
+forest trees, broken here and there by open parks and glades and meadow
+lands, drained by streams of clear cool water, which combining, produced
+a few considerable-sized rivers, "hotching" with trout, unsophisticated
+and so simple in their natures that it seemed a positive shame to take
+advantage of them. These mountains were the haunt of the elk, the
+big-horned sheep, black-and white-tailed deer, grizzly, cinnamon, silver
+tip, and brown and black bears; the porcupine, racoon and beaver; also
+the prong-horned antelope, though it is more of a plains country animal.
+But more of this some other time.
+
+The Apache Indians (Apache is not their proper name, but Tinneh; the
+former was given to them by the Mexicans and signifies "enemy") were
+and are the most dreaded of all the redskin tribes. They always have
+been warlike and perhaps naturally cruel, and at the time of our arrival
+in the country they had about attained their most bloodthirsty and
+murderous character. Shocking ill-treatment by white skalawags and
+United States officials had changed their nature; but more about them
+also by-and-by.
+
+North of us were the numerous and powerful Navajo Indians. They were not
+so much dreaded by us, their Reservation being further away, and they
+then being of a peaceful disposition, devoted to horse and sheep
+breeding and the manufacture of blankets.
+
+These are the famous Navajo blankets so often seen in English homes,
+valued for the oddness of their patterns and colours, but used in
+Arizona mainly as saddle blankets. The majority of them are coarsely
+made and of little intrinsic value; but others, made for the chiefs or
+other special purposes, are finely woven, very artistic, and sell for
+large sums of money. Rain will not penetrate them and they make
+excellent bed coverings.
+
+These Navajoes used to declare that they would never quit the war-path
+till a certain "Dancing Man" appeared, and that they would never be
+conquered till then. An American officer, named Backus, at Fort
+Defiance, constructed a dummy man, who danced by the pulling of wires,
+and showed him to the Indians. They at once accepted him as their
+promised visitor, and have since then never gone on the war-path. This
+may seem an incredible tale, but is a fact.
+
+Also near us were the Zuni Indians, who, like the Pueblo Indians, lived
+in stone-built communal houses, had entirely different customs to those
+of the Apaches and Navajoes, and are perhaps the debased descendants of
+a once powerful and advanced nation. Whilst speaking of Indians, it may
+be said that the plains tribes, such as the Comanches, believe in the
+immortality of the soul and the future life. All will attain it, all
+will reach the Happy Hunting-Ground, unless prevented by such accidents
+as being scalped, which results in annihilation of the soul.
+
+Is it not strange that though these barbarians believe in the
+immortality of the soul yet our materialistic Old Testament never even
+suggests a future life; and it seems that no Jew believes or ever was
+taught to believe in it.
+
+Indian self-torture is to prove one's endurance of pain. A broad knife
+is passed through the pectoral muscles, and a horse-hair rope inserted,
+by which they must swing from a post till the flesh is torn through.
+Indians will never scalp a negro; it is "bad medicine." By the way, is
+not scalping spoken of in the Book of Maccabees as a custom of the Jews
+and Syrians? The tit-bits of a butchered carcass are, to the Indians,
+the intestines, a speciality being the liver with the contents of the
+gall bladder sprinkled over it! Horses, dogs, wolves and skunks are
+greatly valued for food.
+
+Amongst certain tribes Hiawatha was a Messiah of divine origin, but born
+on earth. He appeared long ago as a teacher and prophet, taught them
+picture-writing, healing, etc.; gave them the corn plant and pipe; he
+was an ascetic; told them of the Isles of the Blessed and promised to
+come again. In Mexico Quetzalcohuatl was a similar divine visitor,
+prophet and teacher.
+
+But to return to our own immediate affairs. At a reasonable price we
+bought out another cattleman, his ranches, cattle and saddle horses. As
+required by law, we also adopted and recorded a cattle brand. Our first
+business was to brand our now considerable herd, which entailed an
+immense amount of very hard work. This in later years would have been no
+very great undertaking, but at that time "squeezers" and branding
+"chutes" were not known. Our corrals were primitive and not suited for
+the work, and our cattle extraordinarily wild and not accustomed to
+control of any kind. Indeed, the men we had bought out had sold to us
+for the simple reason that they could not properly handle them. The
+four-legged beasties had got beyond their control, and many of them had
+almost become wild animals. These cattle, too, had very little of the
+"improved" character in them. Well-bred bulls had never been introduced.
+
+Some of the bulls we found had almost reached their allotted
+span--crusty old fellows indeed and scarred in many a battle;
+"moss-heads" we called them, and the term was well applied, for their
+hoary old heads gave the idea of their being covered with moss.
+
+Most of the cattle had never been in a corral in their lives, and some
+of the older steers were absolute "outlaws," magnificent creatures, ten
+to twelve years of age, with immense spreading horns, sleek and glossy
+sides, and quite unmanageable. They could not be got into a herd, or if
+got in, would very soon walk out again. Eventually some had to be shot
+on the range like any wild animal, simply to get rid of them; but they
+at least afforded us many a long and wild gallop.
+
+There was one great steer in particular, reckoned to be ten or twelve
+years old, quite a celebrity in fact on account of his unmanageableness,
+his independence and boldness, which we had frequently seen and tried
+to secure, but hitherto without success. He had a chum, another outlaw,
+and they grazed in a particular part of the range far from the haunts of
+their kin and of man. Three of us undertook to make one more effort to
+secure him. At the headquarters ranch we had gathered a herd of cattle
+and we proposed to try and run the steer in that direction, where the
+other boys would be on the lookout and would head him into the round-up.
+Two of us were to go out and find the steer and start him homewards; I
+myself undertook to wait about half-way, and when they came in sight to
+take up the running and relieve them. They found him all right about
+twenty miles out, turned him and started him. No difficulty so far. He
+ran with the ease of a horse, and he was still going as he willed,
+without having the idea of being coerced. Meantime I had been taking it
+easy, lolling on the ground, my horse beside me with bridle down.
+Suddenly the sound of hoof-beats and a succession of yells warned me to
+"prepare to receive cavalry." Through a cleft in a hill I could see the
+quarry coming at a mad gallop directly for me, the two men pounding
+along behind. I had just time and no more to tighten girth and get into
+the saddle when he was on me, and my horse being a bit drowsy it needed
+sharp digging of the spurs to get out of the way. I forget how many
+miles the boys said they had already run him, but it was a prodigious
+distance and we were still eight miles from the ranch. The steer was
+getting hot, it began to suspect something, and to feel the pressure. As
+he came down on me he looked like a mountain, his eyes were bright, he
+was blowing a bit, and looked particularly nasty. When in such a
+condition it does not do to overpress, as, if you do, the chances are
+the steer will wheel round, challenge you and get on the fight. Much
+circumspection is needed. He will certainly charge you if you get too
+near, and on a tired horse he would have the advantage. So you must e'en
+halt and wait--not get down, that would be fatal--wait five minutes it
+may be, ten minutes, or a quarter of an hour, till the gentleman cools
+off a bit. Then you start him off again, not so much driving him now, he
+won't be driven, but guiding his course towards the herd. In this case
+we succeeded beautifully, though at the end he had to be raced once
+more. And so he was finally headed into the round-up; but dear me, he
+only entered it from curiosity. No round-up for him indeed! no corral
+and no going to market! He entered the herd, took a look round, a sniff
+and a smell, and was off again out at the other side as if the devil was
+after him, and indeed he wasn't far wrong. The chase was abandoned and
+his majesty doomed later on to a rifle bullet wherever found.
+
+Our principal and indeed only corral at that time was of solid stone
+walls, a "blind" corral, and most difficult to get any kind of cattle
+into. While pushing them in, each man had his "rope" down ready to at
+once drop it over the horns of any animal attempting to break back. Thus
+half our force would sometimes be seen tying down these truants, which
+were left lying on the ground to cool their tempers till we had time to
+attend to them; and it is a fact that some of these individuals,
+especially females, died where they lay, apparently of broken hearts or
+shame at their subjection. They showed no sign of injury by rough usage,
+only their damnable tempers, rage and chagrin were responsible for their
+deaths.
+
+Inside the corral everything, of course, had to be roped and thrown to
+be branded. It was rough and even dangerous work, and individual
+animals, again generally cows, would sometimes make desperate charges,
+and even assist an unfortunate "puncher" in scaling the walls. In after
+years we built proper corrals, and in the course of time, by frequent
+and regular handling, the cattle became more docile and better-mannered.
+For one thing, they were certainly easily gathered. When we wanted to
+round them up we had only to ride out ten or twenty miles, swing round
+and "holler," when all the cattle within sight or hearing would at once
+start on the run for the ranch. These were not yet domesticated cattle
+in that they always wanted to run and never to walk. Indeed, once
+started it was difficult to hold them back. This was not very conducive
+to the accumulation of tallow on their generally very bare bones.
+
+I well remember the first bunch of steers sold off the ranch, which were
+driven to Fort Wingate, to make beef for the soldiers. About two hundred
+head of steers, from six to twelve years of age, all black, brown,
+brindle or yellow, ne'er a red one amongst them; magnificently horned,
+in fair flesh, perfect health and spirits; such steers you could not
+"give away" to-day; but we got sixty dollars apiece for them and were
+well rid of them; and how they walked! The ponies could hardly keep up
+with them; and what cowman does not know the pleasure of driving fast
+walking beef cattle? Ne'er a "drag" amongst them! You had only to
+"point" them and let them "hit the trail"; but a stampede at night was
+all the more a terrific affair, though even in such a case if they got
+away they would keep together, and when you found one you found them
+all. Such a bunch of magnificent, wild, proud-looking steer creatures
+will never be seen again, in America at least, because you cannot get
+them now of such an age, nor of such primitive colours; colours that, I
+believe, the best-bred cattle would in course of long years and many
+generations' neglect revert to.
+
+The method adopted when an obstreperous steer made repeated attempts to
+leave the herd was to send a bullet through his horn, which gave him
+something to think about and shake his head over. No doubt it hurt him
+terribly, but it generally was an effective check to his waywardness.
+And when some old hoary-headed bull wanted to "gang his ain gait" a
+piece of cactus tossed on to his back, whence it was difficult to shake
+off, would give him also something to think about.
+
+Another small herd we some time later disposed of were equally good
+travellers, and indeed were driven from the ranch in one day to Camp
+Apache, another military post, a distance of over 40 miles. In this case
+the trail was through forest country where there was no "holding"
+ground, so they had to be pushed through.
+
+Our herd increased and throve fairly well for a number of years till
+other "outfits" began to throw cattle into the country, and sheepmen
+began to dispute our right to certain grazing lands. We did not quite
+realize it at the time, but it was the beginning of the end. We had gone
+into a practically virgin country, controlled an immense area, and the
+stock throve accordingly. But others were jealous of our success, threw
+in their cattle as already said, and their sheep, and ultimately we
+swamped one another. The grass was eaten down, over-grazed, droughts
+came, prices broke, and so the end. From 500 our annual calf brand
+mounted to 4000; halted there, and gradually dropped back to the
+original tally. Our cattle, from poverty, bogged in the river, or
+perished from hunger. This was all due to the barbarous grazing system
+under which we worked, the United States refusing to sell or lease land
+for grazing purposes; consequently, except at the end of a gun, one had
+no control over his range. Cattle versus sheep wars resulted, stealing
+became rampant and success impossible.
+
+Among other sales made was that of some 1500 steers, of all ages, which
+we drove right up to the heart of Colorado and disposed of at good
+prices. This drive was marked by a serious stampede, on a dark night in
+rough country, by which two of the boys got injured, though happily not
+seriously. Then another time we made an experimental shipment of 500 old
+steers to California, to be grazed and fattened on alfalfa. They were
+got through all right and put in an alfalfa field, and I remained in
+charge of them. Our cattle were not accustomed to wire fences, or being
+penned up in a small enclosure, and of course had never seen alfalfa; so
+for a week or more they did nothing but walk round the fence, trampling
+the belly-high lucerne to the ground. Gradually, however, they got to
+eating it, and in six weeks began to pick up. Briefly stated, this
+adventure was a financial failure. Like the cattle I had been myself an
+entire stranger to the wonderful alfalfa plant, and I never tired
+marvelling at its exuberance of growth and its capacity for supporting
+animal life. The heat in San Joachin Valley in high summer is almost
+overpowering, and vegetable growth under irrigation quite phenomenal.
+Alfalfa was cut some six or seven times in the season; each time a heavy
+crop. After taking cattle out of one pasture, then grazed bare, it was
+only three weeks till the plant was in full growth again, in full
+flower, two feet high and ready for the reception of more live stock.
+The variety of animal life subsisting on alfalfa was extraordinary. All
+kinds of domestic stock throve on it and liked it. In our field, besides
+cattle, were geese, ducks, turkeys, rabbits and hares in thousands,
+doves and quails in flocks, and gophers innumerable; frogs, toads, rats
+and mice; while bees, wasps, butterflies and moths, and myriads of
+other insects were simply pushing one another out of the way. It was a
+wonderful study.
+
+In Utah much difficulty was found in growing clover. This was accounted
+for by the fact that there were no old maids in that polygamous country.
+Old maids naturally were not allowed! And there being none, there were
+of course no cats to kill the mice that eat the bumble-bees' nests;
+thus, no bumble-bees to fertilize it, therefore no clover. Old maids
+have found their function.
+
+Figs could not be grown successfully in California till the Smyrna wasp
+had been imported to fertilize the flower.
+
+And while talking of bees: on the Mississippi River bee-keepers are in
+the habit of drifting their broods on rafts up the river, following the
+advance of spring and thus securing fresh fields and pastures new of the
+young spring blossoms; which is somewhat similar to the Chinaman's habit
+of carrying his ducks (he does love ducks), thousands of them, on rafts
+and boats up and down the broad Yangtse to wherever the richest grazing
+and grub-infested beds may be found.
+
+I should not forget to say that care must be used in putting cattle on
+alfalfa. At some seasons it is more dangerous than at others. A number
+of these steers "bloated," and I had to stick them with a knife promptly
+to save their lives. A new experience to me, but I soon "caught on."
+
+But something must be said about our little county town, San Juan,
+county seat of Apache County in which we were located. St Johns
+consisted of one general store, three or four saloons, a drug store, a
+newspaper office, court-house, jail, etc. A small settlement of Mormons,
+who confined themselves to farming on the narrow river bottom, and an
+equal number of Mexicans, an idle and mischievous riffraff, though one
+or two of them had considerable herds of sheep, and others were county
+officials. County affairs were dreadfully mismanaged and county funds
+misused. For our own protection we had to take part in politics, form an
+Opposition, and after a long struggle, in which my partners did noble
+service, we carried an election, put in our own officials, secured
+control of the county newspaper, and had things as we wanted them. But
+it was a bitter fight, and the old robber gang, who had run the county
+for years, were desperate in their resentment. Unfortunately, this
+resentment was basely and maliciously shown by an attempt, successful
+but happily not fatal, to poison one of my partners. He had a long and
+grim fight with death, but his indomitable will pulled him through. I
+myself, though I had little to do with politics, had a narrow escape
+from a somewhat similar fate. Living at that time, in winter, at what
+was called the Meadows Camp, I usually had a quarter of beef hung in the
+porch. Frost kept it sweet and sound for a long period, and every day it
+was my practice to cut off a steak for consumption. There were two cats,
+fortunately, and a slice was often thrown to them. One morning I first
+gave them their portion, then cut my own. In a few minutes the
+unfortunate animals were in the throes of strychnine poisoning and died
+in short order. It was a shock to me and a warning.
+
+The Mexicans continued for some time to be mean and threatening.
+Bush-whacking at night was attempted, and they even threatened an attack
+on our headquarters ranch; but we were a pretty strong outfit, had our
+own sheriff, and by-and-by a number of good friends.
+
+In our district rough country and timber prevented the cattle drifting
+very much. In winter they naturally sought the lower range; in summer
+they went to the mountains. Headquarters was about half-way between. It
+was finally arranged that I should take charge of the lower winter camp
+during winter and the mountain camp during summer. My partners mostly
+remained at headquarters. In summer time, from April to the end of
+October, this arrangement suited me very well indeed; in fact, it was
+made at my own suggestion; and the life, though a solitary one for long
+periods, suited me to the ground and I enjoyed it immensely. Practically
+I lived alone, which was also my own wish, as it was disagreeable to
+have anyone coming into my one-roomed cottage, turning things over and
+making a mess. I did my own cooking, becoming almost an expert, and have
+ever since continued to enjoy doing so. Of course I could have had one
+of the boys to live with me; but no matter what good fellows cowboys
+generally are, their being in very close companionship is not agreeable,
+some of their habits being beastly. Thus it came about that my life was
+a very solitary one, as it had been in India, and as it afterwards
+continued to be in New Mexico and Texas. Few visitors came to my camp in
+summer or winter. Now and then I was gladdened by a visit of one or
+other of my partners, one of whom, however, cared nothing for fishing or
+shooting, and the other was much of the time entirely absent from the
+country. During our short periodical round-ups of course I attended the
+"work" with the rest; but to spend one whole month, as I did once,
+without not only not conversing with, but absolutely not seeing a human
+being, is an experience that has probably come to very few men indeed.
+However, as said before, life in the White Mountains of Arizona was very
+enjoyable. Peaks ran up to 10,000 feet; and the elevation of my camp
+was about 8000 feet. Round about were extensive open parks and meadows,
+delightfully clear creeks and streams; grass a foot high, vast stretches
+of pine timber, deep and rocky canons, etc., etc.
+
+When we first shoved our cattle up there the whole country was a virgin
+one, no settlements or houses, no roads of any kind, except one or two
+Indian hunting trails, no cattle, sheep or horses. There were, as
+already stated, elk, mountain sheep, antelope, deer, bears, panthers,
+porcupines, coons, any amount of wild turkey, spruce grouse, green
+pigeons, quail, etc., etc. There were virgin rivers of considerable
+size, swarming with trout, many of which it was my luck to first explore
+and cast a fly into. Most of this lovely country, as said before, was
+part of the Apache Indian Reservation, on which no one was allowed to
+trespass; but the boundary line was ill-defined and it was difficult to
+keep our cattle out of the forbidden territory. Indeed, we did not try
+to do so.
+
+The Indian settlement was at Fort Apache, some thirty miles from my
+camp. These people, having such an evil reputation, are worthy of a few
+more notes. Such tales of cruelty and savagery were told of them as to
+be almost incredible. They were the terror of Arizona and New Mexico,
+yet they were not entirely to blame. Government ill-treatment of
+Cochise, the great chief of the Chiricaua Apaches, had set the whole
+tribe on the war-path for ten years. A military company, called the
+Tombstone Toughs, was organized in Southern Arizona to wipe them out,
+but accomplished nothing. Finally, America's greatest Indian fighter,
+General Crook, was sent to campaign in Arizona in 1885. The celebrated
+chiefs, Geronimo and Natchez, broke out again and killed some
+twenty-nine white people in New Mexico and thirty-six in Arizona before
+Crook pushed them into the Sierra Madre Mountains in Sonora, where at
+last Geronimo surrendered. Victorio was an equally celebrated Apache
+war-chief and was out about the same time. Fortunately these last raids
+were always made on the south side of the Reservation. We were happily
+on the north side, and though we had frequent scares they never gave us
+serious trouble. So here were my duties and my pleasures.
+
+The saddle horses when not in use were in my care. The cattle also, of
+course, needed looking after. I was in the saddle all day. Frequently it
+would be my delight to take a pack-horse and go off for a week or two
+into the wildest parts of the Reservation, camp, and fish and shoot
+everything that came along, but the shooting was chiefly for the pot.
+Young wild turkeys are a delicacy unrivalled, and I became so expert in
+knowing their haunts that I could at any time go out and get a supply.
+One of my ponies was trained to turkey hunting. He seemed to take a
+delight in it. As soon as we sighted a flock, off he would go and take
+me up to shooting range, then stop and let me get two barrels in, and
+off again after them if more were needed. Turkeys run at a great rate
+and will not rise unless you press them.
+
+Big game shooting never appealed to me much. My last bear, through lack
+of cartridges to finish him, went off with a broken back, dragging
+himself some miles to where I found him again next morning. It so
+disgusted me as to put me off wishing to kill for killing's sake ever
+afterwards. A wounded deer or antelope, or a young motherless fawn, is a
+most pitiable sight.
+
+There was, and perhaps still is, no better bear country in America than
+the Blue River district on the border of Arizona and New Mexico. On
+these shooting and fishing trips I was nearly always alone, and many
+times experienced ridiculous scares. Camping perhaps in a deep canon, a
+rapid stream rushing by, the wind blowing through the tall pines, the
+horses tethered to tree stumps, a menagerie-like smell of bears
+frequently quite apparent, your bed on Mother Earth without tent or
+covering, if your sleep be not very sound you will conjure up all sorts
+of amazing things. Perhaps the horses take fright and run on their
+ropes.
+
+[Illustration: ROPING A GRIZZLY. (By C. M. Russell.)]
+
+You get up to soothe them and find them in a lather of sweat and scared
+to a tremble. What they saw, or, like men, imagined they saw or heard in
+the black darkness, you cannot tell. Still you are in an Indian country
+and perhaps thirty miles from anywhere. Many a night I swore I should
+pack up and go home at daylight, but when daylight came and all again
+seemed serene and beautiful--how beautiful!--all fear would be
+forgotten; I would cook my trout or fry the breast of a young turkey,
+and with hot fresh bread and bacon grease, and strong coffee.--Why,
+packing up was unthought of!
+
+One of my nearest neighbours was an old frontiers-man and Government
+scout. He had married an Apache squaw, been adopted into the tribe
+(White Mountain Apaches) and possessed some influence. He liked
+trout-fishing, so once or twice I accompanied him with his party, said
+party consisting of his wife and all her relatives--indeed most of the
+tribe. The young bucks scouted and cut "sign" for us (another branch of
+the Apaches being then on the war-path), the women washed clothes, did
+the cooking, cleaned and smoked the fish, etc. These Indians were
+rationed with beef by the Government, while they killed no doubt quite a
+number of our cattle, and even devoured eagerly any decomposed carcass
+found on the range; but they preferred the flesh of horses, mules and
+donkeys, detesting pork and fish.
+
+In these mountains in summer a serious pest was a green-headed fly,
+which worried the cattle so much that about noon hour they would all
+congregate in a very close herd out in the open places for
+self-protection. No difficulty then in rounding up; even antelope and
+deer would mix with them. When off on a fishing and hunting trip it was
+my custom to set fire to a dead tree trunk, in the smoke of which my
+horses would stand for hours at a time, even scorching their fetlocks.
+
+In these mountains, too, was a place generally called the "Boneyard,"
+its history being that some cattleman, stranger to the country, turned
+his herd loose there and tried to hold them during the winter. A heavy
+snowfall of several feet snowed the cattle in so that they could not be
+got out or anything be done with them. The whole herd was lost and next
+spring nothing but a field of bones was visible.
+
+At another time and place a lot of antelope were caught in deep snow and
+frozen to death. A more remarkable case was that of a bunch of horses
+which became snowed in, the snow being so deep they could not break a
+way out. The owner with great difficulty managed to rescue them, when it
+was found they had actually chawed each other's tails and manes off.
+
+Indian dogs have a great antipathy to white men, likewise our own dogs
+towards Indians, which our horses also share in. Horses also have a
+dread of bears. Once when riding a fine and high-strung horse a bear
+suddenly appeared in front. Knowing that my mount, as soon as he smelt
+the bear, would become uncontrollable, I quickly shot the bear from the
+saddle, and immediately the scared horse bolted.
+
+To preserve trout I sometimes kippered them and hung them up to dry.
+Quickly the wasps would attack them, and, if not prevented, would in a
+short space of time leave absolutely nothing but a skeleton hanging to
+the string. It was later demonstrated that cattle, too, thought them a
+delicacy, no doubt for the salt or sugar ingredients. Snakes also have a
+weakness for fish, and I have seen them approach my trout when thrown on
+the river bank and drag them off for their own consumption.
+
+While fishing or shooting one must always be on the careful lookout for
+rattlesnakes. In the rough canons and river banks the biggest rattlers
+are found, and you may jump, tumble or scramble on the back of one and
+run great chance of being bitten. On the open prairie, where smaller
+rattlers are very plentiful, they always give you warning with their
+unique, unmistakable rattle. Once, on stooping down to tear up by the
+roots a dangerous poison weed, in grasping the plant my hand also
+grasped a rattlesnake. I dropped it quick enough to escape injury, but
+the cold sweat fairly broke out all over me. The bite is always painful,
+but not always necessarily fatal.
+
+"Rustlers" is the common name given to cattle or horse thieves. Arizona
+had her full share of them. That territory was the last resort of
+outlaws from other and more civilized states. Many of our own "hands"
+were such men. Few of them dare use their own proper names; having
+committed desperate crimes in other states, such as Texas, they could
+not return there. Strange to say, the worst of these "bad" men often
+made the best of ranch hands. Cowboys as a class, that is, the genuine
+cowboys of days gone by, were a splendid lot of fellows, smart,
+intelligent, self-reliant and resourceful, also hard and willing
+workers. If they liked you, they would stay with you in any kind of
+trouble and be thoroughly loyal. No such merry place on earth as the cow
+camp, where humour, wit and repartee abounded. The fact of every man
+being armed, and in these far-off days probably a deadly shot, tended to
+keep down rowdyism and quarrelling. If serious trouble did come up, it
+was settled then and there quickly and decisively, wrongly or rightly.
+Let me instance a case.
+
+In round-up camp one day a few hot words were suddenly heard, guns began
+to play, result--one man killed outright and two wounded. The case of
+one of the wounded boys was rather peculiar. His wound was in the thigh
+and amputation was necessary. Being a general favourite, we, myself and
+partners, took turns nursing him, dressing his wounds and cheering him
+up as well as we could. He rapidly recovered, put on flesh and was in
+high spirits, and, as the doctor said, quite out of danger; but one day
+this big strong young fellow took it into his foolish head that he was
+going to die. Nothing would persuade him to the contrary, and so die he
+did, and that without any waste of time. In preparing a body for burial
+it is the custom, a burial rite indeed, not to wrap the corpse in a
+shroud, but to dress it in a complete ordinary costume, a brand-new suit
+of black clothes, white shirt, socks, etc., etc.--whether boots or not I
+forget, but rather think so--dress him probably better than the poor
+fellow was ever dressed before, and in this manner he was laid in the
+ground. The man who started the shooting was named "Windy M'Gee,"
+already an outlaw, but then cook for our mess wagon. Shortly afterwards
+he killed a prominent lawyer in our little town, or at least we
+suspected him strongly, though another man suffered for the crime; but
+such incidents as these were too common to attract world-wide
+attention.
+
+On another occasion one of our men got shot in the thigh, by whom or how
+I do not now remember, but he was a different sort of man from the boy
+just mentioned. We knew him to be quite a brave, nervy man in action,
+having been in one of our fighting scrapes with rustlers; but as a
+patient he showed a most cowardly disposition, developing a ferocious
+temper, rejecting medical advice, cursing everybody who came around, so
+that he lay for months at our charge, until we really got to wish that
+he would carry out his threat of self-destruction. He did not, but he
+was crippled for life and did not leave a friend behind.
+
+[Illustration: A SHOOTING SCRAPE. (By C. M. Russell.)]
+
+Then, too, the cowboy, in matter of accoutrements, was a very splendid
+fellow indeed. His saddle was gaily decorated with masses of silver, in
+the shape of buttons, buckles and trimmings, etc. Likewise his bridle
+and bit; his spurs were works of loving art from the hands of the
+village metal-worker, and likewise heavily plated with silver. The
+rowels were huge but blunt-pointed, and had little metal bells attached.
+His boots cost him near a month's pay, always made to careful order,
+with enormously high and narrow heels, as high as any fashionable
+woman's; his feet were generally extremely small, because of his
+having lived in the saddle from early boyhood up. He wore a heavy
+woollen shirt, with a gorgeous and costly silk handkerchief tied loosely
+round his neck. His head-covering was a very large grey felt hat, a
+"genuine Stetson," which cost him from five to twenty dollars, never
+less. To keep the big hat in place a thong or cord is tied around and
+below the back of the head instead of under the chin, experience having
+proved it to be much more effective in that position. His six-shooter
+had plates of silver on the handle, and his scabbard was covered with
+silver buttons. It should be said that a saddle, such as we all used,
+cost from forty to sixty dollars, and weighed generally about forty
+pounds, not counting saddle blankets. Sometimes the saddle had only one
+"cinch" or girth, generally two, one of which reached well back under
+the flank. Such heavy saddles were necessary for heavy work, roping big
+cattle, etc. The stirrups were then generally made of wood, very big and
+broad in sole and very heavy, sometimes covered with tapaderos, huge
+leather caps to save the feet from thorns in heavy brush, and protect
+them from cold in severe weather.
+
+To protect our legs we wore over the trousers heavy leather chaparejos,
+sometimes of bear or buffalo hide. Let it be noted that a genuine
+cowpuncher never rolls his shirt sleeves up, as depicted in romancing
+novels. Indeed he either protects his wrists with leather wristlets, or
+wears long gauntlet gloves. Mounted on his favourite horse, his was a
+gay cavalier figure, and at the "Baillie" he felt himself to be
+irresistible to the shy and often very pretty Mexican senoritas. There
+you have a pretty faithful picture of the cowboy of twenty-five years
+ago.
+
+It remains to say something of the "shooting irons." In the days of
+which I write there was no restriction to the bearing of arms. Every man
+carried a six-shooter. We, and most of our outfit, habitually carried a
+carbine or rifle as well as the smaller weapon. The carbine was carried
+in a scabbard, slung from the horn, under the stirrup flap, and so under
+the leg. This method kept the weapon steady and left both arms free. By
+raising the leg it was easily got at, and it interfered in no way with
+the use of the lariat (La Riata). The hang of the six-shooter required
+more particular consideration; when needed it would be needed _badly_,
+and therefore must be easily drawn, with no possible chance of a hitch.
+The butt of a revolver must point forwards and not backwards, as shown
+in the accompanying illustration, a portrait of one of our men as he
+habitually appeared at work. We ourselves did not go the length of
+wearing three belts of cartridges and two six-shooters; but two belts
+were needed, one for the rifle and the other for the smaller weapon.
+Some of the boys were always getting into scrapes and seemed to enjoy
+protracted fights with the Mexicans. There must be no flap to the
+scabbard, and the point must be tied by a leather thong around the thigh
+to keep it in correct position; and of course it was hung on the right
+side and low down on the hip, so as to be easily got at. Only when
+riding fast was a small loop and silver button passed through the
+trigger guard to prevent the gun from jolting out and being lost. The
+chambers were always kept full and the weapons themselves in perfect
+working order. Very "bad" men tied back or removed the trigger
+altogether, cocking and releasing the hammer with the thumb, or
+"fanning" it with the left hand. This permitted of very rapid firing, so
+that the "aar would be plumb full of lead."
+
+[Illustration: ONE OF OUR MEN. (To show the hand of six-shooter.)]
+
+As an instance of quick shooting, two of our neighbours had threatened
+to kill each other at sight: and we were all naturally interested in the
+results. When the meeting did take place, quite unpremeditated, no
+doubt, each man saw the other about the same instant, but one of them
+was just a little the quicker, and put a bullet through his enemy's
+heart. It was a mortal wound of course; but before the unlucky man fell
+he was also able to "get his work in," and both fell dead at the same
+instant. This was no duel. The first to fire had the advantage, but the
+"dead" man was too quick for him, and he did not escape. If I remember
+right, a good riddance.
+
+There was one other way of "packing a gun." It was called the Arizona
+way. Legal gentlemen, some gamblers, and others who for various reasons
+wished to appear unarmed, simply put the pistol in the coat side pocket,
+and in use fired from that position through the pocket. It was not often
+so used, but I have known cases of it. In this way it was difficult to
+know whether a man was "heeled" (armed) or not. Of course our usual
+weapon, the long Colt 45 deg. six-shooter could not be so used, being too
+cumbrous.
+
+[Illustration: 1883 IN ARIZONA. AUTHOR AND PARTY.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+CACTUS RANCHING IN ARIZONA--_continued_
+
+     The Cowboy--Accoutrements and Weapons--Desert Plants--Politics and
+     Perjury--Mavericks--Mormons--Bog Riding.
+
+
+The "rustling" of cattle was very common in Arizona in these days. By
+"rustling" is not meant the petty burning out of a brand, or stealing of
+calves or odd beef cattle. It was carried on on the grand scale. Bands
+of rustlers operated together in large bodies. Between our range and the
+old Mexican border extended the Apache Reservation, a very large tract
+of exceedingly rough country, without roads of any description, the only
+signs of human presence being an occasional Indian trail and abandoned
+wickyups. Beyond the Reservation lay certain mining towns and camps,
+such as Clifton, Camp Thomas, Tombstone, and others; and then the
+Mexican frontier.
+
+The rustlers' business was to steal cattle, butcher them in the
+mountains, and sell the beef to the mining towns; or drive them over
+into Old Mexico for disposal, and then again drive Mexican cattle or
+horses back into Arizona. Some of these gangs were very powerful and
+terrorized the whole country, so much so that decent citizens were
+afraid "to give them away."
+
+Our cattle ranged well into the mountains, and up to a certain period we
+had no occasion to think that any "dirty" work was going on; but at last
+we "tumbled" to the fact that a gang was operating on our range. Word
+was brought us that a bunch of some 200 cattle had been "pulled"
+(Scotch, lifted). I was off the ranch at the time, but one of my
+partners at once started on the trail with three of the men. After some
+days very hard riding they caught up on the thieves at early dawn, in
+fact when still too dark to see very well. Shooting began at once. None
+of our men were hurt. Two of the enemy were badly wounded, but managed
+in the darkness to scramble off into the rocks, or were carried off by
+their companions. Our party captured their saddle horses and camp
+outfit, but did not feel themselves strong enough to continue the chase
+in such a country. The cattle were found close to the camp, but so
+footsore that it was impossible to move them homewards. They then
+returned to the ranch, and we at once organized a strong force of some
+seventeen men, well mounted and abundantly supplied with ammunition,
+etc. Again taking the trail we met the cattle on their way home, and
+gave them a push for a mile or so; and thinking them safe enough we
+prepared to continue south.
+
+On arriving at the scene of last week's fight we noticed that the big
+pine trees under which the rustlers camped had gun-rests notched in the
+sides of them, not newly made, but showing that they had been cut a long
+while ago, probably in anticipation of just what had happened.
+
+That day in camp, a horseman, the most innocent-looking of individuals,
+appeared, took dinner with us, and gave some plausible reason for his
+presence in that out-of-the-way place. It is strictly against cowboy
+etiquette to question a guest as to his personality, his movements or
+his occupation. We, however, felt very suspicious, especially as after
+he had gone we stumbled on to a coffee-pot and frying-pan, still warm,
+which had evidently been thrown into the bushes in great haste. In fact,
+this confirmed our suspicions that our visitor was one of the gang, and
+we thereafter stood careful guard round our horses every night. The
+cattle we decided to leave alone to take their chances of getting home,
+thinking the rustlers would not have the "gall", in face of our near
+presence, to again try to get off with them; but they did! These cattle
+never reached the ranch. Had they been left alone their wonderful homing
+instinct would certainly have got them there just as quick as they
+could travel. However, we did not realize the fact of the second raid
+till on our return no sign of these cattle could be found. So we
+continued south, passing through the roughest country I ever set eyes
+on, the vegetation in some places being of the most extraordinary
+nature, cacti of all kinds forming so thick a jungle that one could
+hardly dismount. Such enormous and freakish-looking growths of this
+class of plant few can have ever looked on before. The prickly pear
+"nopal" was the most common, and bore delicious, juicy and refreshing
+fruit. Indeed, being out of water and short of "chuck," we were glad to
+accept Nature's offering, but at a dreadful cost, for in a little while
+our mouths and tongues were a mass of tiny, almost invisible spines,
+which the most careful manipulation of the fruit could not prevent. But
+the most astonishing of these growths was the pitahaya (correct name
+saguarro), or gigantic columnar cactus, growing to a height of thirty to
+fifty feet, bearing the fruit on their crowns; a favourite fruit of the
+Pima Indians, though by what means they pluck it it would be interesting
+to know. Besides an infinite variety of others of the cactus family,
+there were yuccas, agaves and larreas; the fouquiera and koberlinia,
+long and thorny leafless rods; artemisias and the algarrobbas or
+mesquite bean-trees, another principal food of the Indians and valuable
+for cattle and horses. The yucca when in full bloom, its gigantic
+panicles bearing a profusion of large white bells, is one of Nature's
+most enchanting sights. Besides all these were massive biznagas, cholas,
+bear-grass or palmilla, and the mescal, supplying the principal
+vegetable food of the Apaches. Never in Texas, Arizona, or even Old
+Mexico, have I seen such a combination of varieties of such plants
+growing in such profusion and perfection; but being no botanist, and
+quite incompetent to give a proper appreciation of these wonders, we
+will return to the trail.
+
+At one place, hidden in a canon, we ran on to a stone-built and
+fortified butchering establishment, but without sign of life around.
+Continuing, we finally came to Clifton, the copper-mining town, then
+perhaps the "hardest" town in Arizona. The townspeople appeared pleased
+to see us. Martial law was prevailing, and they seemed to think we were
+a posse deputized to assist in restoring order. Anyway, the sheriff
+informed us that nearly thirty men had left the town that day for their
+camp, a fortified position some ten or fifteen miles away. They were all
+rustlers, and somehow or other had heard of our coming. Mr Sheriff was
+also kind enough to advise us that we were not nearly strong enough to
+tackle them; so adopting his advice, after securing supplies, we rode
+off, and by travelling all night and working round avoided the enemy's
+"position." Next day we unexpectedly ran on to a large bunch of our own
+cattle quietly grazing on the hillside. We rounded them up, but our
+brands were so completely burned out and effaced that, when we put them
+in the corral at Camp Thomas and claimed ownership, the sheriff refused
+to acknowledge it, and we had to draw his attention to a small jaw brand
+lately adopted by us but unnoticed by the thieves, and therefore not
+"monkeyed" with. This was proof enough, and so our long and tedious trip
+was to some extent compensated for. The particular rustlers we were
+after we could hear nothing of, except one man, who was lying wounded at
+a certain establishment, but who was carefully removed before we got to
+the place.
+
+On returning home there were only two possible passes through the
+mountains. It was lucky we took the one, as the other, we afterwards
+learned, had been put into a state of defence and manned by the outlaws,
+who in such a place could have shot us all down without danger to
+themselves.
+
+This short narrative will give some sort of idea of the state of the
+country at that period. Thereafter it became necessary that the cattle
+in the mountains should be more carefully guarded and looked after, and
+the duty fell to me to "cut sign." By "cutting sign" is meant, in this
+instance, the riding round and outside of all our cattle, pushing back
+any that had strayed too far, and carefully looking out for fresh sign
+(footprints) of cattle or horses leading beyond our range limits. Such
+sign was always suspicious, and the trail must be followed till the
+stock was found and accounted for. If horse tracks accompanied the
+cattle it would be a dead sure proof that something was wrong. I
+continued this work for a long time, but nothing suspicious occurred. At
+last, one day when searching the open country with my field-glasses, I
+was gratified and at the same time alarmed to see three or four men
+driving a considerable herd of cattle in the direction, and on exactly
+the same trail as before taken by the rustlers. Convinced that all was
+not right, and quite realizing that there was the prospect of serious
+trouble for myself, I lit out for them, keeping as well under cover as
+possible, till, on mounting a small tree-covered knoll, I found myself
+directly overlooking their camp. There were the cattle, from four to
+five hundred, and there the men, preparing their mid-day meal, four of
+them in all, and all strangers to me. It was necessary at all costs to
+know who they were, so I was obliged to disclose myself by going into
+their camp. The number of saddle horses they had with them led me to
+think that they were not real professional cattle thieves. Had they
+been indeed rustlers it would have been a risky thing to do, as they
+would have had to dispose of me in some way or other. By my horse brand
+they at once knew what "outfit" I belonged to. Their brands, however,
+were strange to me. They asked me to eat, of course; and I soon found
+out that their party was headed by one Pete----, whose reputation I had
+often heard of as being of the worst. He said he had been grazing these
+cattle in some outlying park, and was now taking them home to his
+ranches somewhere in New Mexico. That was all right; but since he had
+passed through part of our range it was necessary to inspect the herd.
+This he resisted by every means he could think of, asserting that they
+were a "clean" bunch, with no "strays," and that he was in a great hurry
+to push on. I insisted, however, on riding through them, when, not much
+to my surprise, I found about twenty large unbranded calves, apparently
+without their "mammies." On asking Pete for an explanation: "Oh," he
+said, "the mammies were shore in the herd" and he "warn't no cow thief,"
+but on my persisting he finally exclaimed, "Well, take your damned
+_caves_ and let's get on," or some such words; so I started in and cut
+out nearly twenty big unbranded calves, which certainly did not have
+their mothers with them; which, therefore, were clearly not his
+property; were probably ours, but whether they were or not did not
+matter to me. Pete and his men pulled out home, but I caught and branded
+over half of these calves before turning them loose, and it is probable
+we got the rest of them at the next round-up. When a man is
+single-handed and has to make his fire up as well as catch and tie down
+the calves he has his hands pretty full. In this case I used only one
+fire and so had to drag the calves up close to it; every bit of tie rope
+in my pocket, thongs cut off the saddle, even my pocket-handkerchief,
+were all brought into service; as at one time there were as many as four
+calves tied down at once. I had only the one little branding-iron, a
+thin bent iron rod, generally carried tied to the saddle alongside the
+carbine. The branding-iron must be, if not quite red-hot, very nearly
+so. Then the calf has to be ear-marked and altered.
+
+When the mothers are near by the bellowing of the young ones as the hot
+iron burns into the hide makes them wild with fear and anxiety, and the
+motherly instinct to charge is strained to the utmost, though they
+seldom dare to do it. The calves themselves, if big and stout enough,
+will often charge you on being released, and perhaps knock you over with
+a painfully hard punch.
+
+This was merely an adventure which lent some excitement and interest to
+the regular work. Happily no more serious raid on our cattle occurred
+in that direction, but one never knew when a little "pulling" might take
+place and so had to be constantly on the alert.
+
+About this time certain ill-disposed individuals tried "to get their
+work in on us" by asserting land frauds on our part. They tried every
+possible way to give us "dirt," that is, to put us to trouble and
+expense, and even send us to the pen if they could. They succeeded in
+having me indicted for perjury by the Grand Jury at Prescott, the then
+capital of Arizona. It cost us some money, but no incriminating evidence
+was forthcoming and the trial was a farce. The trial jury consisted of
+miners, cattlemen, saloon-keepers and others, and by mixing freely with
+them, standing drinks, etc., we managed to "correct" any bad feeling
+there might have been against us. Certainly these jurymen might have
+made trouble for me, but they did not. This notwithstanding that my
+friend, a special land agent sent out from Washington and principal
+witness against me, swore that I had assaulted him at a lonely place
+(and I well remember the occasion), and that he felt his life in such
+danger that he had to travel with a guard, etc. This came from politics.
+
+Having described summer life and occupations, and before going to winter
+camp, something must be said about our headquarters ranch, situated
+some twenty miles off. Here were the grain-house, the hay stacks, wagon
+sheds, corrals, the kitchen, general messroom, the bunk house and
+private rooms for ourselves. There was a constant succession of
+visitors. Nearly every day some stranger or neighbour "happened" in for
+a meal. Everyone was welcome, or at least got free board and lodging and
+horse feed. There being a paid cook made things different.
+
+But it was hot down here in summer-time, hot and dry and hardly
+attractive. The lower part of the range was much of it sandy country.
+With the temperature at 110 deg. in the shade the sand would get so hot as
+to be almost painful to walk on, certainly disagreeable to sit on. And
+when one wanted to rest the only shade you could find would be in the
+shadow of your horse, which at noon meant your sitting right under him;
+and your saddle, on remounting, would be so hot as to be really very
+uncomfortable. Between round-ups there was not much work to do. Before
+round-up a general shoeing of the horses had to be gone through. I shod
+my own, except in cases of young ones undergoing the operation for the
+first time, when assistance was needed. Except poker every night we had
+few amusements. It was almost a daily programme, however, to get our
+carbines and six-shooters out and practise at targets, firing away box
+after box of ammunition. No wonder we were pretty expert shots, but
+indeed it needs much practice to become so.
+
+It should be said that amongst our visitors there were, no doubt, many
+angels whom we entertained unawares; but also, and no doubt of this,
+many blackguards and desperadoes, "toughs" and horse-thieves.
+
+An old English sailor, who had farmed a little in the mountains, was on
+one occasion left alone at our headquarters to take charge of it during
+our absence on the work. Two men came along and demanded something which
+the old man would not give and they deliberately shot him dead. We
+caught the miscreants, but could not convict them, their plea being
+self-defence. They really should have been hung without trial.
+
+Lynchings of cattle and horse thieves and other criminals were not then
+uncommon. I have twice come on corpses swinging in the wind, hung from
+trees or telegraph posts. But the most distressing sight witnessed was
+in Denver's fair city when a man, still alive, was dragged to death all
+through the streets by a rope round his neck, followed by a howling mob!
+
+By the way, a strange couple once surprised me at my mountain camp,
+viz., two individuals dressed much alike, both wearing the hair in a
+long pigtail, both dressed in leather "chaps," high-heeled boots,
+woollen shirts, big felt hats, rifles and six-shooters, and both as
+"hard"-looking as they ever make them. One was a man, the other a woman!
+They volunteered to me nothing of their business, but I watched the
+horses a little closer. And I may as well here give another little
+incident that occurred in my summer camp.
+
+A United States cavalry officer appeared one day at my door and demanded
+that I at once move the cattle off the Reservation. This was a sudden
+and rather big order. I told him that I was alone and could not possibly
+do it at once, or for several days. "Oh," he said, he "would help me,"
+he having some forty nigger troopers with him. "All right," I said, and
+took the men along with me, got back behind the cattle, spread these
+novel cowboys out and began to drive, when such a shouting and shooting
+of guns took place as never was heard before in these parts. We drove
+the cattle, really only a thousand head or so, back to the supposed
+Reservation border, quite unmarked and vague, and so left them, only to
+wander back again at their leisure to where they had been. The officer
+made all kinds of threats that he would turn the Indians loose on them,
+but nothing more was then done.
+
+At my winter camp, some thirty-five miles below headquarters, there was
+a good three-roomed frame house, a corral, etc., and the Little Colorado
+River flowed past near by. It was to these lower parts of the range that
+most of our cattle drifted in winter time. Two or three other large
+cattle-ranches marched with us there.
+
+A small Mormon settlement was not far off. These Mormons were a most
+venturesome people and daring settlers. Certainly they are the most
+successful colonists and a very happy people. Living in close community,
+having little or no money and very little live stock to tempt Providence
+(rustlers), theirs is a peaceable, though possibly dull, existence. They
+had frequent dances, but we Gentiles were not admitted to them.[1]
+
+[Footnote 1: _See_ Appendix, Note 1.]
+
+In winter one lives better than in the hot weather, table supplies being
+more varied. In summer, excepting during the round-ups, we never had
+butcher meat, and in my camp butter, eggs and milk were not known; but
+in winter I always had lots of good beef, potatoes, butter and some eggs
+from the Mormons, but still no milk. This was varied, too, by wild duck,
+teal and snipe shot along the river bottom.
+
+Talking of snipe, it is very wonderful how a wounded bird will carefully
+dress and apply down and feathers to the injury, and even apply splints
+and ligatures to a broken limb.
+
+My principal duties at this season consisted in riding the range on the
+lookout for unbranded calves, many calves always being missed on the
+round-up. This was really rather good sport. Such calves are generally
+big, strong, fat, and run like jack-rabbits, and it takes a fast and
+keen pony to catch them. Occasionally you would be lucky enough to find
+a maverick, a calf or a yearling so old as to have left its mother and
+be still running loose without a brand and therefore without an owner.
+It was particular satisfaction to get one's rope, and therefore one's
+brand, on to such a rover, though it might really not be the progeny of
+your own cattle at all. It was no easy job either for one man alone to
+catch and brand such a big and wild creature, especially if among the
+brush and cedar trees. A certain stimulant to your work was the fact
+that you were not the only one out on a maverick hunt. There were
+others, such as your neighbours, or even independent gentlemen, expert
+with the rope and branding-iron, who never bought a cow critter in their
+lives, but started their herds by thus stealing all the calves they
+could lay hands on. A small crooked iron rod, an iron ring, or even an
+old horseshoe, did duty as branding-iron on these occasions. The ring
+was favoured by the latter class of men, as it could be carried in the
+pocket and not excite suspicion. Of course we branded, marked and
+altered these calves wherever we found them. "Hair branding" was a
+method resorted to by dishonest cowboys; by burning the hair alone, and
+not the hide, they would apparently brand the calf with its rightful
+owner's brand; but later, when the calf had grown bigger and left its
+mother, they would slap on their own brand with comparative safety. One
+had to be constantly on the lookout for such tricks.
+
+The Mexicans, too, were fond of butchering a beef now and then, so they
+too required watching; but my busiest time came with early spring, when
+the cattle were in a poor and weak condition. The river-bed, too, was
+then in its boggiest state. Cattle went in to drink, stuck, and could
+not get out again, and thus some seasons we lost enormous numbers of
+them. Therefore I "rode bog" every day up and down the river. When I
+found an animal in the mud I had to rope it by the horns or feet and
+drag it by main force to solid ground. A stout, well-trained horse was
+needed. It was hard, dirty work and exasperating, as many of those you
+pulled out never got up again, and if they did would invariably charge
+you. No special tackle was used; you remain in the saddle, wrap the rope
+round the horn and dig the spurs in. Of course, on your own beat, you
+dragged out all you could, no matter of what brand; but when, as often
+happened, you failed to get them out, and they belonged to someone else,
+you were not allowed to shoot them; so that there the poor creatures lay
+for days, and perhaps even weeks, dying a lingering, but I am glad to
+think and believe not a painful, death. What an awful death for a
+reasoning, conscious man. Dumb animals, like cattle, happily seem to
+anticipate and hope for nothing one way or another. Once I found a mare
+in the river in such a position under a steep bank that nothing could be
+done for her. Her young colt was on the bank waiting and wondering. Very
+regretfully I had to leave them and carefully avoided passing that way
+for some days to come till the tragedy had terminated. The Little
+Colorado River, and afterwards the Pecos River in New Mexico, I have
+often seen so thick with dead and dying cattle that a man might walk up
+and down the river on the bodies of these unfortunate creatures. The
+stench would become horrible, till the spring flood came to sweep the
+carcasses to the sea or covered them up with deposit.
+
+Quicksand is much more holding than mere river mud. If only the tip of
+the tail or one single foot of the animal is covered by the stuff, then
+even two stout horses will not pull it out. The Pecos River is
+particularly dangerous on account of its quicksandy nature, and it was
+my custom, when having to cross the mess wagon, to send across the
+ramuda of two or three hundred saddle horses to tramp the river-bed
+solid beforehand. On one occasion when crossing quite a small stream my
+two driving ponies went down to their hocks, so that I had to cut the
+traces and belabour them hard to get them out. Had they not got out at
+once they never would have done so. My ambulance remained in the
+river-bed all night and till a Mexican with a bull-team luckily came
+along next day.
+
+At the Meadows, my winter camp, I had to fill a contract of two or three
+fat steers for the town butcher every week. With a man to help me we had
+to go far afield and scour the range to get suitable animals, the best
+and fattest beeves being always the furthest out. After corralling,
+which might mean a tremendous amount of hard galloping and repeated
+failures, the most difficult part of the job was the actual killing,
+which I accomplished by shooting them with a six-shooter, not a carbine.
+Only when a big steer has its head down to charge can you plant a bullet
+in exactly the right spot, a very small one, too, on the forehead, when
+he will drop like a stone. It was very pretty practice, but risky, as to
+get them to charge you must be afoot and inside the corral. The butcher
+was rather astonished when I first accomplished this trick, but it
+saved time and a lot of trouble. Such were my winter duties.
+
+Sometimes neighbours would look in, and the weekly mail and home papers
+helped to pass the time. I read a great deal, and so the solitariness of
+the position was not so trying as one might suppose. Indeed, books were
+more to me than the neighbours' society.
+
+"Incidents" occurred, of course, but I will only mention one. In winter
+I only kept up two saddle horses, picked ponies, favourites and almost
+friends. They were fed with grain night and morning, and, to save hay,
+were allowed to graze out at night. They regularly returned at early
+morning for their feed, so I never had to go after them. One morning,
+however, they did not appear. It was quite unaccountable to me and very
+awkward, as it left me afoot and unable to do anything. Not till about
+10 a.m. did they come galloping in, greatly excited, their tails in the
+air, puffing and snorting. It did not look quite right. Someone had been
+chasing them. At noon, while preparing early dinner, a man, a stranger,
+rode up to the house, and of course was invited to eat. He was very
+reticent, in fact would hardly speak at all, and gave no hint as to who
+he was or anything about himself. While eating there was suddenly a
+rapid succession of rifle-shots heard outside. We both rushed to the
+door and saw a man riding for life straight to the house, with half a
+dozen others shooting at him from horseback. He was not touched, only
+his horse being killed at the door. The new-comer and my strange guest
+at once showed that they were very intimate indeed, so that I quickly
+and easily put two and two together. The following party in the meantime
+had stopped and spread out, taking positions behind the low hills and
+completely commanding the house. Only their big hats showed and I could
+not make out whether they were Mexicans or white men. My two guests
+would tell me nothing, except to assert that they knew nothing of their
+followers, or why they began shooting. Realizing that these two had me
+at their mercy, that they could make me do chores for them, fetch water,
+cook, feed and attend to the horses till nightfall, when with my own two
+fresh mounts they might possibly make a bolt for it, I got a bit
+anxious, and determined to find out who the larger party were. So
+walking out and waving my hat I caught their attention and, on advancing
+further, one of the party came out and met me. They were neighbouring
+cattlemen, and explained that the two men in my house were rustlers, and
+they were determined to take them dead or alive. They asked me to join
+their party as they were going to "shoot up" the house if necessary. To
+this I would not consent and went back. After a deal of talk and
+persuasion the two men finally agreed to give me their guns, preliminary
+to meeting two of the other party, who were also asked to approach
+unarmed. They met, much to my relief, and when, somehow or other, the
+two men allowed themselves to be surrounded by the rest they saw the
+game was up and surrendered. Then the funny thing happened and the one
+reason for the telling of this story. They all came down to the house,
+had dinner together, chatted and cracked jokes, and not a word was said
+about the immediate trouble. They were all "punchers," had worked
+together, knew each other's affairs, etc., etc. The one party was about
+to send the other to the penitentiary, or perhaps the gallows; but you
+would have thought it was only a pleasant gathering of long-separated
+friends. The two rustlers were lodged in the county jail, quickly broke
+out, and soon afterwards died in their "boots," one at the hands of the
+sheriff.
+
+For tracking jail-breakers Indians, Navajoes or Apaches were sometimes
+employed, and the marvellous skill they showed was simply astonishing
+and inexplicable; all done by reading the "sign" left by the escaping
+party, but "sign" often quite unnoticeable to the white man. Indeed, an
+Indian would follow a trail by sign much as a hound will do by scent.
+
+Talking of scent, the homing instinct of horses and cattle is very
+wonderful and mysterious; but it is not generally known that a horse has
+also great power of scent. A horse will follow its mate (nearly all
+horses have their chums) many miles merely by sense of smell, as my long
+experience of them has amply proved to me. On one occasion I for some
+reason displaced the near horse of my driving team and hitched up
+another. After driving a distance of fifteen miles and returning
+homewards on the same road, soon in the distance could be seen said near
+horse busy with nose on the ground picking up the trail, and so absorbed
+in it that even when we got up quite close he did not notice us. When he
+did recognize his chum and companion his evident satisfaction was
+affecting.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+ODDS AND ENDS
+
+     Scent and Instinct--Mules--Roping Contests--Antelopes--The
+     Skunk--Garnets--Leave Arizona.
+
+
+This shall be a sketchy chapter of odds and ends, but more or less
+interesting according to the individual reader.
+
+The horse's intelligence is nothing compared to that of the mule, and as
+riding animal in rough country a mule should always be used. In Mexico,
+Central American States and the Andes mules are alone used; and what
+splendid, even handsome, reliable creatures they are on roads, or rather
+trails, such as it would be hazardous to take horses over. I once saw
+the unusual sight of two big strong mules (our ammunition pack animals)
+roll together down a very steep hillside. Happily neither mules nor
+loads were at all damaged, but it was a steepish hill, as on our
+returning and trying to climb it we had to dismount and hang on to the
+horses' tails. Another good point about mules is that they will not
+founder themselves. Put an open sack of grain before a hungry mule and
+he will eat what he wants, but never in excess, whereas a horse would
+gorge and founder himself at once.
+
+As said before, the homing instinct of horses and cattle is very
+remarkable. I have known horses "shipped" by a railway train in closed
+cars to a distance of over 400 miles, some of which on being turned
+loose found their way back to their old range. Cattle, too, may be
+driven a hundred or two hundred miles through the roughest country,
+without roads or trails of any kind, and even after being held there for
+several weeks will at once start home and take exactly the same route as
+that they were driven over, even though there be no "sign" of any kind
+to guide them and certainly no scent.
+
+On my shooting and fishing trips I rode one horse and packed another.
+The packed horse, on going out, had to be led, of course, unless indeed
+he was my saddle-horse's chum. But on going home, after even a couple of
+weeks' absence, I simply turned the pack-horse loose, hit him a lick
+with the rope, and off he would go with the utmost confidence as to the
+route, and follow the trail we had come out on, each time a different
+trail be it remembered, with ridiculous exactitude; yet there was no
+visible track or sign of any kind. Indeed, I would often find myself
+puzzled as to our whereabouts and feel quite confident we were at fault,
+when suddenly some familiar tree or landmark, noticed on going out,
+would be recognized.
+
+Parts of our Arizona range were covered with great beds of broken
+malpais rock, really black lava, hard as iron, with edges sharp and
+jagged. Over such ground we would gallop at full speed and with little
+hesitation, trusting absolutely to our locally-bred ponies to see us
+through. English horses could never have done it, and probably no
+old-country horseman would have taken the chances. We got bad falls now
+and then, but very seldom indeed considering conditions.
+
+The bits used then were murderous contrivances, being of the kind called
+spade or ring bits. By means of them a horse could be thrown on his
+haunches with slight effort, even his jaw may be broken. Luckily the bit
+is little used by the cowboy. His horse knows its painful character, and
+so obeys the slightest raising of the rider's hand. It should also be
+remarked that the cow-pony is guided, not by pulling either the right or
+left rein, but by the rider carrying his bridle hand over to the _left_
+if he wants to go to the left, and vice versa. There is no pulling on
+the mouth. The pony does not understand that; it is the slight pressure
+of the right rein on the _right_ side of the neck that turns him to the
+_left_.
+
+The reata in those days was nearly always made of plaited raw hide, and
+often made by the boys themselves, though a good reata required a long
+time to complete and peculiar skill in the making of it. Quirts
+(quadras) and horse hobbles were also made of raw hide.
+
+As everyone knows, the horn of the saddle is used in America to hold
+roped cattle with. In South America a ring fixed to the surcingle is
+used; while in Guatemala and Costa Rica the reata is tied to the end of
+the horse's tail!
+
+It is a very pretty sight to see a skilled roper (the best are often
+Mexicans) at work in a corral or in a herd; or better still, when after
+a wild steer on the prairie. But roping is hardly ever used nowadays,
+one reason of the "passing" of the old-time cowboy. We used to have
+great annual roping competitions in New Mexico and Texas, when handsome
+prizes were given to the men who would rope and tie down a big steer in
+quickest time. I once or twice went in myself to these competitions and
+was lucky enough to do fairly well, being mounted on a thoroughly
+trained roping horse; but it is a chancy affair, as often the best man
+may unluckily get a lazy sort of steer to operate on, and it is much
+more difficult to throw down such an animal than a wild, active,
+fast-galloping one; for this reason, that on getting the rope over his
+horns you must roll him over, or rather _flop_ him over, on to his
+back by a sudden and skilful action of your horse on the rope. If
+properly thrown, or flopped hard enough, the steer will lie dazed or
+stunned for about half a minute. During that short period, and only
+during that short period, you must slip off your horse, run up to the
+steer and quickly tie his front and hind feet together, so tightly and
+in such a way that he cannot get up. Then you throw up your hands or
+your hat, and your time is taken. While you are out of your saddle your
+horse will, if well trained, himself hold the steer down by carefully
+adjusting the strain on the rope which still connects the animal's horns
+with the horn on the saddle.
+
+[Illustration: WOUND UP. (Horse tangled in rope.) (By C. M. Russell.)]
+
+I may here tell a wonderful story of a "buck" nigger who sometimes
+attended these gatherings. He was himself a cowboy, and indeed worked in
+my neighbourhood and so I knew him well. He was a big, strong, husky
+negro, with a neck and shoulders like a bull's. You cannot hurt a nigger
+any way. Well, this man's unique performance was to ride after a steer,
+the bigger and wilder the better, and on getting up to him to jump off
+his horse, seize the steer by a horn and the muzzle, then stoop down and
+grip the animal's upper lip with his teeth, turn his hands loose, and so
+by means of his powerful jaws and neck alone throw down and topple the
+steer over. The negro took many chances, and often the huge steer would
+fall on him in such a way as would have broken the neck or ribs of any
+ordinary white man. In this case also the steer must be an active one
+and going at a good pace, otherwise he could not be thrown properly.
+
+Stock-whips were never allowed. Useful as they may be at times, still
+the men are liable to ill-treat the cattle, and we got on quite well
+without them. Dogs, too, of course, were never used and never allowed on
+the range. They so nearly resemble the wolf that their presence always
+disturbs the cattle.
+
+This deprivation of canine society, as it may be imagined, was keenly
+felt by us all, perhaps more especially by myself. Had I only then had
+the companionship of certain former doggy friends life would have been
+much better worth living. As a protection at night too, when out on long
+journeys across the country, during the hunting and fishing trips, or
+even at the permanent camps, the presence of a faithful watch-dog would
+probably have saved me from many a restless night.
+
+The Navajo Indian's method of hunting antelope was to strew cedar
+branches or other brush in the form of a very long wing to a corral,
+lying loose and flat on the ground. The antelope on being driven against
+it will never cross an obstruction of such a nature, though it only be
+a foot high, but will continue to run along it and so be finally driven
+into the corral.
+
+And antelope are such inquisitive animals! On the Staked Plains of New
+Mexico the Mexicans approach them by dressing themselves up in any
+ridiculous sort of fashion, so as least to resemble a human being. In
+this way they would not approach the antelope, but the antelope would
+approach them, curious to find out the nature of such an unusual
+monstrosity. Antelope, there, were still very plentiful, and even in my
+own little pasture there was a band of some 300 head. Only at certain
+times of the year did they bunch up together; at other times they,
+though still present, were hardly noticeable.
+
+I would like to make note of the curious misnaming of wild animals in
+North America. Thus, the antelope or pronghorn is not a true antelope,
+the buffalo is not a buffalo, the Rocky Mountain goat is not a goat, and
+the elk is not an elk. By the same token the well-known "American aloe,"
+or century plant, is not an aloe, but an agave.
+
+While in Arizona I used to carry in a saddle pocket a small sketch-book
+and pencil, and on finding one of the beautiful wild flowers the Rocky
+Mountains are so famous for, that is, a new kind, I would at once get
+down and take a sketch of it, with notes as to colour, etc. The boys
+were at first a bit surprised, and no doubt wondered how easily an
+apparent idiot could amuse himself. I was considerably surprised myself
+once when busy sketching on the banks of a brawling stream in the
+mountains. A sudden grunt as of a bear at my elbow nearly scared me into
+the river. On turning round, there was an armed Apache brave standing
+close behind me; but he was only one of a hunting party. What sentiment
+that grunt expressed I never learnt.
+
+It is remarkable how a range or tract of country that has been
+overstocked or over-grazed will rapidly produce an entirely new flora,
+of a class repugnant to the palate of cattle and horses. In this way our
+mountain range in particular, when in course of a very few years it
+became eaten out, quickly decked itself in a gorgeous robe of brilliant
+blossoms; weeds we called them, and weeds no doubt they were, as our
+cattle refused to touch them. Certain nutritious plants, natives of the
+soil, such as the mescal, quite common when we first entered the
+country, were so completely killed out by the cattle that later not a
+single plant of the kind could be found.
+
+Amongst the fauna of Arizona was, of course, the ubiquitous prairie dog;
+and as a corollary, so to speak, the little prairie owl (_Athene
+cunicularis_), which inhabits deserted dog burrows and is the same bird
+as occupies the Biscacha burrows in Argentina. Rattlesnakes, so common
+around dog-towns, enter the burrows to secure the young marmots. Another
+animal frequently seen was the chaparral-cock or road-runner, really the
+earth cuckoo (_Geococcyx Mexicanus_), called paisano or pheasant, or
+Correcamino, by the Mexicans. It is a curious creature, with a very long
+tail, and runs at a tremendous rate, seldom taking to flight. Report
+says that it will build round a sleeping rattlesnake an impervious ring
+of cactus spines. Its feathers are greatly valued by Indians as being
+"good medicine," and being as efficacious as the horseshoe is with us.
+
+A still more curious animal, not often seen, was the well-named Gila
+monster or Escorpion (_Heloderma suspectum_), the only existing animal
+that fills the description of the Basilisk or Cockatrice of mediaeval
+times; not the _Basilicus Americanus_, which is an innocent herbivorous
+lizard. This Gila monster is a comparatively small, but very hideous
+creature, in appearance like a lizard, very sluggish in its movements,
+and rightly owning the worst of reputations. Horned toads, also hideous
+in appearance, and tarantulas (_Mygales_), very large centipedes and
+scorpions, were common, and lived on, or rather were killed because of
+their reputation, but they seldom did anyone harm.
+
+But the most highly appreciated, that is the most feared and detested,
+of wild creatures was the common skunk, found everywhere, mostly a night
+wanderer and a hibernator. He is a most fearless animal, having such
+abundant and well-reasoned confidence in his mounted battery, charged
+with such noxious gases as might well receive the attention of our
+projectile experts. The first time I ever saw one he came into my
+mountain hut. Knowing only that he was "varmint" I endeavoured to kill
+him quickly with a spade. Alas! the spade fell just a moment too late
+and henceforth that hut was uninhabitable for a month. The only way to
+get one out of the house is to pour buckets of cold water on it. That
+keeps the tail down (unlike a horse, which cannot kick when his tail is
+up); but when his tail goes up, then look out! The skunk is also more
+dreaded by the cowboy and the frontiers-man than the rattlesnake. It is
+their belief that a bite from this creature will always convey
+hydrophobia. Being a night prowler it frequents cow camps, and often
+crawls over the beds spread on the ground, and it certainly has a habit
+of biting any exposed part of the human body. When it does so, the
+bitten man at once starts off to Texas, where at certain places one can
+hire the use of a madstone. The madstone is popularly supposed to be an
+accretion found somewhere in the system of a white stag. It is of a
+porous nature, and if applied to a fresh wound will extract and absorb
+the poison serum. Texans swear that it "sticks" only if there be poison
+present--does not stick otherwise. A fanciful suggestion! And yet, no
+doubt, the skunk does sometimes convey hydrophobia through its bite. I
+have myself often had the pleasant experience of feeling and knowing
+that a skunk was crawling over my carefully-covered-up body. But enough
+of this very objectionable creature.
+
+In Texas some of the boys used to carry in their pockets a piece of
+"rattlesnake root," which when scraped and swallowed after a bite was
+held to be an antidote, though otherwise a virulent poison.
+
+In this placid land of ours, so free of pests, mosquitoes, fleas and
+leeches, we are also free of the true skunk; but we do have, as perhaps
+you are aware, a small creature armed and protected in much the same
+way. This is the bombardier-beetle, common in certain other countries,
+but also found in England, which if chased will discharge from its stern
+a puff of bluish-white smoke, accompanied by a slight detonation. It can
+fire many shots from its stern chasers. It is said that a highly
+volatile liquid is secreted by glands, which when it meets the air
+passes into vapour so suddenly as to produce the explosion.
+
+The Mexicans of the United States deserve more than a passing notice.
+Many of them have Indian blood and are called Greasers, but the majority
+are of fairly pure Spanish descent. Contact with the Americans has made
+them vicious and treacherous. They have been robbed of their lands,
+their cattle and their horses, bullied and ill-treated in every possible
+way. But even now many of them retain their character, almost universal
+amongst their compatriots in Old Mexico, for hospitality, unaffected
+kindness, good breeding and politeness. A Mexican village in autumn is
+picturesque with crimson "rastras" of Chile pepper hung on the walls of
+the adobe houses. To the Mexicans we owe, or rather through them to the
+Aztecs, the delightfully tasty and delicious enchiladas and tamales.
+
+Among native animals should not be forgotten the common jacket-rabbit
+(hare). She affords capital coursing, and someone has said runs faster
+than an ice boat, or a note maturing at a bank, so she must indeed be
+speedy. It is interesting to recall that puss in Shakespeare's time was
+_he_ and not _she_. Among our feathered friends the humming-bird was not
+uncommon. These lovely but so tiny little morsels are migrants. Indeed
+one of the family, and one of the tiniest and most beautiful, is known
+to summer in Alaska and winter in Central America; thus accomplishing a
+flight twice a year of over two thousand miles.
+
+An interesting little note too may be made of the fact that the garnets
+of Arizona are principally found on ant-heaps, being brought to the
+surface by the ants and thrown aside as obstructions only fit for the
+waste-basket. But they are very beautiful gems and are regularly
+collected by the Indians.
+
+There was little or no gold mining in our part of the territory; but
+there were current many tales of fabulously rich lost Claims, lost
+because of the miners having been massacred by the Indians or other
+causes. In likely places I have myself used the pan with the usual
+enthusiasm, but luckily never with much success.
+
+The practice of that very curious custom, the "couvade," seems to be
+still in force among some of the Arizona Indian tribes, among whom so
+many other mysterious rites and customs prevail.
+
+The loco-weed (yerba-loco) was common in our country and ruined many of
+our horses, but more about it hereafter.
+
+After ten years, a long period of this life in Arizona, an offer came to
+me which, my partners consenting, was gladly accepted, viz., to take
+charge of and operate certain cattle-ranches in New Mexico in the
+interests of a Scottish Land and Mortgage Company. Things had not been
+going well with us and the future held out no prospects of improvement.
+Also I had been loyal to my agreement not to take or seek any share in
+the management of affairs, and the natural desire came to me to assume
+the responsibility and position of a boss. But dear me! had I foreseen
+the nature of the work before me, and the troubles in store, my
+enthusiasm would not have been quite so great.
+
+[Illustration: WATERING A HERD.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+RANCHING IN NEW MEXICO
+
+     The Scottish Company--My Difficulties and Dangers--Mustang
+     Hunting--Round-up described--Shipping Cattle--Railroad
+     Accidents--Close out Scotch Company's Interests.
+
+
+Bidding good-bye to Arizona I travelled to Las Vegas, New Mexico, now
+quite an important place. Calling on Mr L----, the manager of the
+Mortgage Company, and the Company's lawyers, the position of affairs was
+thus stated to me. The Company had loaned a large sum of money to a
+cattleman named M----, who owned a large ranch with valuable
+water-claims and a very fine though small herd of cattle. M---- had paid
+no interest for several years and attempted to repudiate the loan, so
+the Company decided to foreclose and take possession. Well, that seemed
+all right; so after getting power of attorney papers, etc., from the
+Company, I started down to the ranch, some eighty miles and near Fort
+Sumner, and introduced myself to M----, who at once refused to turn over
+the property to me or to anyone else, and sent me back to Las Vegas in a
+somewhat puzzled state of mind. Recounting my experience to Mr L----
+and the lawyers, after a long confab they decided that I should go down
+again and _take_ possession. They refused me the services of a sheriff
+or a deputy to serve the papers and represent the law. No, I was to take
+possession in any way my wits might suggest; they merely proposing that
+everything I did I should put on paper and make affidavit to and send up
+to them. By this time I had learned that M---- was very much stirred up
+about it, was quite determined to give nothing up, and that really he
+was a dangerous man who, if pushed to extremities, might do something
+desperate. The lawyers told me there was another, a right, usual and
+legal way of taking possession, but for private reasons they did not
+wish to proceed in that way; and so I finally agreed to go down again
+and do what I could.
+
+Buying some horses and hiring a Mexican vaquero to show me the country,
+and especially to be a witness to whatever took place, we pulled out for
+Fort Sumner. The spring round-up was about to begin, and near by I found
+M----'s "outfit" wagon, "cavayad" of horses, his full force of "hands"
+and the foreman H----. After dining with them I pulled out my papers to
+show H---- who I was and told him I had come there to take possession of
+M----- 's saddle horses, the whole "ramuda" in fact of nearly a hundred
+head. Oh, no! he had no instructions to give them up; he did not know
+anything of the matter and he certainly would not let me touch them! I
+said I had come to carry out my orders and meant to do so; and mounting,
+rode out to gather up the grazing ponies. At once they came after me,
+not believing that anyone would dare do such a thing in their presence,
+and began to jostle me, with more evil intentions in their eyes.
+Desisting at once, and before they had gone too far, I told them that
+that was all I wanted, said good-bye in as friendly a way as possible,
+and went before a Justice of the Peace and made affidavit of having
+attempted to take possession of the horses till resisted by force, in
+fact, that physical violence had been used against me. This was sent to
+Las Vegas, and in due course the lawyers advised me that it was
+satisfactory and recommended me to adopt similar methods when attempting
+to get possession of the ranches, cattle, stock horses, etc.
+
+This was a funny position to be in! M----was a popular man; the other
+cattlemen would certainly side with him and resent such novel and
+apparently high-handed proceedings. Myself was an entire stranger in the
+whole of that huge country, devoted solely to cattle interests, and of
+course did not have a friend nor did expect to have any. In fact M----
+'s appellation of me as that "damned Scotsman" became disagreeably
+familiar. The round-up was then a long way off down the river, some 100
+miles, working up towards Fort Sumner; so I decided to visit the
+ranches. We rode out to one where was a house (unoccupied) and a spring,
+there stayed one night, and on departing left an old coffee-pot, some
+flour, etc., as proof of habitation and so gave myself the right to
+claim having taken possession. From there to the headquarters ranch was
+some thirty-five miles. On our route we came across a number of M----'s
+stock horses (he claimed about four to five hundred) and, taking the
+opportunity, we got together some 200 head, inspected them, and in this
+way, the only way open to me, claimed having taken possession. But now
+with fear and trembling we approached the ranch where M---- and his
+family, as I knew, were residing. A hundred yards from the house was the
+main spring of water, to which and at which we went and camped for
+dinner. Somehow or other M---- heard of our presence and out he came, a
+shot-gun in his hand, fury in his eyes, and his wife clinging to his
+coat-tails. No doubt he meant to shoot, but I was quite ready for him
+and put a bold face on it. Things looked nasty indeed and I was
+determined to fire should he once raise his gun. Perhaps this boldness
+made him think a bit, and I was very much relieved indeed when he
+resorted to expressive language instead of any more formidable
+demonstration. Though it was necessary to tell him that I was come to
+take possession of the ranch, he was not on to the affidavit game, and
+the result was that on returning to Fort Sumner I swore to having
+attempted to take possession but had been resisted by force. As
+explained before, such an affidavit was, in the eye of the law, a strong
+point in our contention of having taken possession. At least, so our
+legal advisers affirmed.
+
+From Fort Sumner I then started for the round-up, taking with me a white
+man, the Mexican having got scared and quit. Having bought more horses,
+enough to fully mount two men, we joined the work. Fortunately M----'s
+outfit had gone up the river with a large herd of cattle, and was during
+their absence represented by the foreman of another ranch. What I did
+was to get all the foremen together (there were some ten wagons on the
+work) and explain to them who I was, that I was there to work and handle
+the M---- cattle, that if they would help me I should be obliged, but
+they were to understand that they would be regarded as doing it for my
+Company. They only said they were going to help in the usual way to
+gather the cattle and brand the calves; that I could work or not as I
+liked; that, in fact, it was none of their business as to whose the
+cattle were. So after working on a bit an affidavit was sent in that I
+had "worked" the cattle and had _met no resistance_. But mine was an
+extremely disagreeable position.
+
+During this round-up I noticed that M----was carefully gathering all the
+steers and bulls of any age he could find. I notified my people and
+asked them to send the sheriff down to help me. Things were coming to a
+point as it were; it was evidently M----'s intention to drive the
+steers out of the territory, knowing that once over the Texas line we
+could no longer enjoin him. His whole force of men depended on this to
+get their wages out of these steers, as every one of them was at least
+three months in arrears, some of them six, twelve, and even eighteen
+months. Thus I knew they would make every effort to succeed in the drive
+and would be desperate men to interfere with. The last day of the
+round-up was over, and in the evening I was careful to note the
+direction taken by the herd.
+
+In the meantime L---- had sent me a restraining paper to serve and I was
+of course determined to do it; but late that night my relief was great
+to see the sheriff, a Mexican, drive into camp. Here was a proper
+representative of the law at last, though I do not think he himself
+liked the job overmuch, officers of his breed being habitually treated
+with contempt by the white men. We agreed to take up the trail early
+next morning, knowing that the distance to the line was forty miles
+straight across the Staked Plains, no fences, no roads or trails, and no
+water for thirty miles at least. So up and off before daybreak, he
+driving a smart pair of horses, I with only my saddle pony, at as quick
+a gait as a wheeled vehicle could move; drove till his team began to
+play out, when luckily we came upon a mustang-hunter's camp and were
+supplied with two fresh mounts. Pushing on we at last spied in the far
+distance what was unmistakably a herd of cattle. Experience told me that
+the cattle had been watered, a fact which was thankfully noted. Watered
+cattle cannot be driven except at a very slow walk, and the herd was
+still seven or eight miles from the Texas line. M----'s foreman had
+made a fatal mistake! Had he not watered them they might have escaped
+us. They must have thought they had hoodwinked me and were probably then
+rejoicing at their success. They had certainly made a noble effort,
+having travelled all night and on till noon next day at a speed I had
+not thought possible. (There were even bulls in the herd.) One can
+imagine the feelings of the party when they at last saw us two riding at
+top speed directly on their trail. Cuss words must have flown freely,
+and no doubt the more desperate ones talked resistance. I was really
+anxious myself as to what course they would decide on, M---- not being
+with them, and they thinking of nothing but the settlement of their
+wages. On coming up to them they looked about as "mad" as any men could
+be. But they decided rightly; and seeing the game was up, merely tried
+to get me to promise to pay their back wages. This I would not do, but
+said there was time enough to talk that over afterwards; that meantime
+the herd must be driven back to its proper range, and to this they
+finally agreed. Word was brought in that M---- was lying out on the
+prairie, prostrated by the sun, helped no doubt by his realizing that
+his little scheme had been defeated. We had him brought into camp, but I
+declined to see him and returned to Fort Sumner. Soon afterwards M----
+threw up the sponge, so to speak, and agreed to turn the property over
+to us. These M---- cattle, numbering only 2000, did not justify the
+running of a mess wagon and full outfit, so I made arrangements with a
+very strong neighbouring ranch company to run the cattle for us, only
+myself attending the round-ups to see that our interests were properly
+protected.
+
+Meantime the stock horses must be looked after. Fraudulently M---- had
+started new brands on the last two crops of colts, the pick of them
+going into his wife's brand; and her mares ranged with M----'s, now
+ours. The band ran apparently anywhere. They had the whole Staked Plains
+of New Mexico to wander over, there being then absolutely no fences for
+a distance of 200 miles. Some 200 head of the gentler stock ranged near
+home; the balance, claimed to number some 300 more, were mixed up with
+the mustangs and were practically wild creatures, some of them having
+never been rounded up for over two years.
+
+By this time some of M----'s old hands had come over to my side. They
+knew the country, knew how best to handle these horses, and by
+favourable promise I got them to undertake to help in discriminating as
+to which colts were the Company's property and which Mrs M----'s. So I
+put up an "outfit," wagon, cook, mounts for seven or eight men, etc.,
+and set out on a very big undertaking indeed, and one that M----himself
+had not successfully accomplished for several years--a clean round-up of
+all the stock horses in the country. These Staked Plains (Llanos
+Estacados) were so called because the first road or trail across them
+had to be staked out with poles at more or less long intervals to show
+direction, there being no visible landmarks in that immense level
+country. They are one continuous sweep of slightly undulating, almost
+level land, well grassed, almost without living water anywhere, but
+dotted all over with depressions in the ground, generally circular, some
+of great size, some deeper than others, which we called "dry lakes,"
+from the fact that for most of the year they were nearly all dry, only
+here and there, and at long distances apart, a few would hold sufficient
+muddy water to carry wild horses and antelope through the dry season.
+But which lakes held water and which not was only known to these wild
+mustang bands and our mares that ran with them. We took out with us some
+hundred of the gentler mares, the idea being to graze these round camp,
+and on getting round a bunch of the outlaws to drive them into this herd
+and so hold them. Nearly every bunch we found had mustangs amongst them.
+The mustang stallions we shot whenever possible. They were the cause of
+all our trouble. These stallions did not lead the bands, but fell
+behind, driving the mares in front and compelling them to gallop. When
+pressed, the stud would wheel round as if to challenge his pursuers. He
+presented a fine spectacle, his eyes blazing and his front feet pawing
+the ground. What a picture subject for an artist! The noble stallion,
+for he does look noble, no matter how physically poor a creature he may
+chance to be, wheeling round to challenge and threaten his pursuer, his
+mane and tail sweeping the ground, fury breathing from his nostrils and
+his eyes flashing fire! Is he not gaining time for his mares and progeny
+to get out of danger? A noble object and a gallant deed! Then was the
+time to shoot. But, yourself being all in a sweat and your horse
+excited, straight shooting was difficult to accomplish. We worked on a
+system; on finding a band, one man would do the running for six or eight
+miles, then another would relieve him, and so on, the idea being to get
+outside of them and so gradually round them in to the grazing herd. We
+had special horses kept and used for this purpose, fast and long-winded,
+as the pace had to be great and one must be utterly regardless of dog
+and badger holes, etc. This kind of work we kept up for a couple of
+weeks, some days being successful, some days getting a run but securing
+nothing. We made a satisfactory gathering of all the gentler and more
+tractable mares, but some of the wilder ones we could not hold. At night
+we stood guard over the band, and it was amusing, and even alarming, how
+the stallions would charge out and threaten any rider who approached too
+near his ladies. A good deal of fighting went on too between these very
+jealous gentlemen. As illustrating what the wild stallions are capable
+of, I may relate here how, one night when we had a small bunch of quite
+gentle mares and colts in a corral, a mustang stallion approached it,
+tore down the gate poles, took the mares out and forced them to his own
+range, some thirty miles away; and he must have driven them at a great
+pace, as when we followed next morning it was quite that distance before
+we saw any sign of them. The story is told of M---- himself who one dark
+night saw what he supposed was one of these depredators, shot it with
+his rifle, and found he had killed the only highly-bred stud he
+possessed.
+
+At last we started homewards, meaning to separate the properties of the
+two claimants; but M---- owned the only proper horse-separating corral
+in the whole country, and from obstinacy and cussedness would not let us
+use it. Here was a pretty go! To drive to any other corral would mean
+taking M----'s horses off their proper range and the law forbade us
+doing so, and he knew it. So we were compelled to do what I reckon had
+never been done or attempted before--separate the horses on the open
+prairie! First we cut out and pushed some half a mile away all mares and
+young unbranded colts to which the Company's title could not be
+disputed; also the stallions and geldings of like nature; then came the
+critical and difficult part of the operation--to cut out and separate
+mothers from their unbranded colts, and branded colts, some even one or
+two years old, from their mothers. And not only cut them out, but hold
+them separate for a full couple of hours! No one can know what this
+means but one who has tried it. I had done a fair amount of yearling
+steer-cutting; but hard as that work is, it is nothing compared with the
+separating of colts from their dams. The only way was to suddenly scare
+the colt out and race him as hard as you could go to the other bunch.
+But if by bad luck its mother gave a whinny, back the colt would come
+like a shot bullet, and nothing on earth could stop him. Fortunately I
+had kept a fresh horse in reserve, a very fine fast and active cutting
+pony. I rode him myself, and but for him we would never have
+accomplished what we did. When we got through our best horses were all
+played out. But it was absolutely necessary to move our own mare band to
+the nearest corral at Fort Sumner, a distance of thirty miles, which we
+did that evening. To night-herd them would have been impossible. The
+title to many of these colts, branded and unbranded, was very much mixed
+up, and indeed still in the Courts. Nevertheless I prepared next morning
+to brand them for the Company. The fire was ready, the irons nearly hot,
+when up drove M----in a furious rage. I do not think I ever saw a man
+look so angry and mean. He held a shot-gun in his hand and, presenting
+it at me, swore he would kill me if I dared to proceed any further. My
+foreman, who knew him well, warned me to be careful; there seemed no
+doubt that he meant what he said; he was too mad to dispute with, and
+so! well, his bluff, if it were a bluff, carried the day and I ordered
+the mares to be turned loose. As it turned out afterwards it was well I
+did so, as further legal complications would have resulted. But as I
+began to think of and remember the time that had been spent and the
+amount of hard work in collecting these horses, I felt rather ashamed of
+my action. And yet, can one be expected to practically throw his life
+away, not for a principle, but for a few head of young colts not even
+his own property? But, as said before, the disputed title influenced me
+to some extent; that, and the muzzle of the shot-gun together certainly
+did.
+
+A word about mustangs. They were very wary, cunning animals, keen of
+scent and sharp of eye. Invariably, when one first sighted them, they
+would be one or two miles away, going like the wind, their tails and
+manes flying behind them; and be it noted that when walking or standing
+these manes as well as tails swept the ground. Few of them were of any
+value when captured; many of them were so vicious and full of the devil
+generally that you could do nothing with them, and they never seemed to
+lose that character. Like the guanaco of South America, the wild
+stallion always dungs in one particular spot, near the watering-place,
+so that when hunting them we always looked out for and inspected these
+little hillocks. It may also be mentioned here that guanacos, like wild
+elephants and wild goats, have their dying ground, so to speak, where
+immense quantities of their bones are always found. Cattle when about to
+die select if possible a bush, tree or rocky place, perhaps for privacy,
+quietness, or some other reason unknown to us.
+
+The next and last time we rounded up the stock horses I left the wilder
+ones alone, and gave a contract to some professional mustangers to
+gather them at so much per head. These men never attempt to run them
+down. They "walk" them down. A light wagon, two mules to pull it, lots
+of grain, some water and supplies, are what you need. On sighting a band
+you simply walk your team after them, walk all day and day after day,
+never giving them a rest. Keep their attention occupied and they will
+neglect to feed or drink. Gradually they become accustomed to your
+nearer presence, and finally you can get up quite close and even drive
+them into your camp, where your companions are ready with snare ropes
+to secure them, or at least the particular ones you want to catch.
+
+Prince, a horse I used to ride when mustang hunting, once accidentally
+gave me a severe tumble. He was running at full speed when suddenly a
+foreleg found a deep badger hole; over he went of course, head over
+heels, and it is a miracle it did not break his leg off. These badger
+holes, especially abandoned ones, go right down to a great depth, and
+the grass grows over them so that they are hardly visible. Dog holes
+always have a surrounding pile of earth carefully patted firm and trod
+on, no doubt to prevent entrance of rain flood-water; thus they are
+nearly always noticeable. Dog towns are sometimes of great extent, one
+in my pasture being two miles long and about a mile wide. They are
+generally far from water, many miles indeed, often on the highest and
+driest parts of the plain and where the depth to water may be 500 feet
+or more. They must therefore depend entirely on the juices of the green
+grass, though in dry seasons they cannot even have that refreshment; and
+they never scrape for roots. But even the small bunnies (called
+cotton-tails) are found in like places and must subsist absolutely
+without water, as they do not, or dare not, on account of wolves, etc.,
+get far away from their holes.
+
+No sooner was the M---- trouble well over than my Company saw fit to
+foreclose on two other cattle outfits, one of which bowed to the law at
+once. The other gave us, or rather me, a lot of unnecessary trouble, and
+I had again "to take chances" of personal injury. All these cattle were
+thrown on to the M---- range, and this increased the herd so much as to
+justify the running of our own wagon and outfit.
+
+Eastern New Mexico, the country over which our cattle ranged, was a huge
+strip of territory some 250 miles by 100 miles, no fences, no settlers,
+occupied only by big cattle outfits owning from 8000 to 75,000 cattle
+each. The range was, however, much too heavily stocked, the rains
+irregular, severe droughts frequent, and the annual losses yearly
+becoming heavier; so heavy in fact that owners only waited a slight
+improvement in prices to sell out or drive their cattle out of the
+country. The way the cattle were worked was thus. The spring round-up
+began in March, far down the river, and slowly worked north to our
+range. Our wagon, one of many more, would join the work some 110 miles
+south of our range, but I sent individual men to much greater distances.
+The work continued slowly through the range, branding the spring calves,
+and each outfit separating its own cattle and driving its own herd.
+Twelve or more wagons meant some 300 riders and about 3000 saddle
+horses. So the operation was done on a grand scale; thousands of cattle
+were handled every day, and altogether such a big round-up was a very
+busy and interesting scene. Intricate and complicated work it was, too,
+though not perhaps apparent to an outsider; but under a good round-up
+boss, who was placed over the bosses of all the wagons, it was wonderful
+how smoothly the work went on. A general round-up took a long time and
+was no sooner over than another was begun at the far south border (the
+Mexico line) and the thing repeated. Our own cattle had got into the
+habit of drifting south whenever winter set in. It took us all summer to
+get them back again, and no sooner back than a cold sleet or rain would
+start them south. In fact, in winter few of our own cattle were at home,
+the cattle on our range being then mostly those drifted from the
+northern part of the territory. Such were the conditions in a "free
+range" country, and these conditions broke nearly all these big outfits,
+or at least compelled them to market their stuff for whatever it would
+bring. Partly on account of long-drawnout lawsuits we held on for seven
+or eight years, when on a recovery of prices our Company also closed out
+its live-stock interests.
+
+During the turning-over of these, the Company's cattle, to the
+purchasers, of course they had to be all branded, not with a recorded
+brand, but simply with a tally brand, thus /**, on the hip. Had there
+been a convenient separate pasture to put the tallied cattle into as
+they were tallied, much work would have been saved and no opportunity
+offered for fraud, such as will now be suggested and explained. The
+method adopted was to begin gathering at one end of the range, tally the
+herd collected, and then necessarily turn them loose. But we had bad
+stormy weather and these tallied cattle drifted and scattered all over
+the country and mixed up with those still not rounded up. This at once
+gave the opportunity for an evilly-inclined man to do just as was soon
+rumoured and reported to me. It was even positively asserted to me by
+certain cowmen (this was while I was confined in bed from an accident)
+that the buyer had a gang of men out operating on the far end of the
+range, catching and tally-branding for him the still untallied cattle. A
+simple operation enough, in such an immense district, where four men
+with their ropes could, in a few undisturbed days' work, cheat the
+Company out of enough cattle at $20 a head to be well worth some risk.
+Several men were positive in their assertions to me. But I knew these
+gentlemen pretty well--cattle-thieves themselves and utterly
+unprincipled; perhaps having a grudge against the said buyer, perhaps
+wanting merely to annoy me, and also possibly hating to see such a fine
+opportunity not taken advantage of. In the end, when brought to the
+scratch, not one of these informers would testify under oath. Whether
+afraid to, as they would undoubtedly have run strong chances of being
+killed, or whether they were just mischief-makers, as I myself have
+always believed, it is impossible to know accurately. The buyer, being a
+man of means and having many other interests in the district, would
+certainly hesitate long before he took such a very dangerous risk of
+discovery. All that can be said about it is that though I employed
+detectives for some time to try to get evidence bearing on the subject,
+no such evidence was ever obtained. The shortage in the turnover was due
+simply to the usual miscalculation of the herd; the herd which never
+before had been counted and could not, under range conditions, be
+counted.
+
+These were still "trailing" days, which means that steers sold or for
+sale were driven out of the country, not shipped by rail cars. One great
+trail passed right through our ranch (a great nuisance too), and by it
+herd after herd, each counting, maybe, 2500 cattle, was continually
+being trailed northwards, some going to Kansas or the Panhandle, most of
+them going as far north as Nebraska, Wyoming and Montana. These latter
+herds would be on the trail continuously for two or three months. Our
+own steers were always driven to the Panhandle of Texas, where, if not
+already contracted to buyers, they were held till sold.
+
+[Illustration: HERD ON TRAIL. SHOWING LEAD STEER.]
+
+A herd of breeding-stock when on the trail must be accompanied by one or
+more calf wagons, wagons with beds well boxed up, in which the youngest
+or new-born calves are carried, they being lifted out and turned over to
+their mother's care at night or during stoppages. In the old days, when
+such calves had no value, they were knocked on the head or carelessly
+and cruelly abandoned.
+
+It is a strange fact to note that when a herd is on the trail there is
+always a particular steer which, day after day and week after week,
+occupies a self-assigned position at the head of the herd, and is
+therefore called the "lead steer." I have often wondered what his
+thoughts might be, if any; why he so regularly placed himself at the
+head of affairs and was apparently so jealous of his commanding
+position. Yes, the lead steer is a mysterious creature, yet if displaced
+by death or some such cause, another long-legged, keen traveller will at
+once take his place. It should be explained that a herd on the trail
+travels naturally best in an extended form, two deep, seldom more than
+three or six, except towards the tail end, called the "drag": so that a
+herd of 2000 steers will form a much-attenuated line a mile in length
+from one end to the other.
+
+Which reminds me of an incident in this connection. I was moving a small
+lot of steers, some 400 head in all, to pasture in the Panhandle of
+Texas. The force consisted only of the wagon driver, one cowboy and
+myself. But the cowboy turned out to be quite ignorant of the art of
+driving cattle, did more harm than good, and so annoyed me that I
+dismissed him to the rear to ride in the wagon if he so chose, and
+myself alone undertook to drive, or rather not so much to drive, that
+being hardly necessary, as to guide the herd on its course. I got them
+strung out beautifully half a mile long, and they were making good time,
+when suddenly a confounded sheep herder and his dog met the lead steers
+and the procession was at once a scene of the most utter confusion. It
+should be explained here that, in the case of a small herd thus strung
+out, its guidance, if left to only one man, may be done from the rear by
+simply riding out sharply to one side or the other and calling to the
+lead cattle. How I did curse that wretch and his dog. A man on foot was
+bad enough; but a man on foot with a dog! Horrors! Yet, perhaps, barring
+the delay in getting the cattle started again, the incident had its
+uses, as it had just previously occurred to me that the line was getting
+a bit too long and might soon be out of control. Such are the uses of
+adversity.
+
+It can be understood that even a small herd of 400 lusty young steers
+can keep a man, or even two or three men, busy enough, especially if
+there are any cattle on the range you are passing through. In this case
+there were fortunately few.
+
+Amarillo, being the southern end of the Kansas railroad, was a great
+cattle market. Buyers and sellers met there; and there, immediately
+around the town, were congregated at any time in spring as many as
+40,000 cattle, all under herd. Amarillo was then the greatest cattle
+town in the world. She was the successor of such towns as Wichita and
+Fort Dodge, simply because she was at the western terminus of the
+railway. Though a pretty rowdy town her manners were an improvement on
+such places as Dodge, where in the height of her wickedness a gambling
+dispute, rivalry for the smile of a woman, or the slightest discourtesy,
+was sufficient ground for the shedding of blood.
+
+My life during these eight years had its pleasures and its troubles;
+certainly much discomfort and a lot of disagreeable work. During the
+working season, April to November, my time was mostly spent with the
+round-up or on the trail, with occasional visits to our head office in
+Las Vegas, and also to Amarillo on business matters. To cover these
+immense distances, near 300 miles (there were few or no desirable
+stopping-places), I used a light spring wagon or ambulance, holding my
+bedding, mess-box, grain for the team, some water, stake ropes, and a
+hundred other things. I nearly always camped out on the prairie, of
+course cooked my own meals, was out in all kinds of weather--sun, rain,
+heat and drought, blizzards and frightful lightning storms. My favourite
+team was a couple of grey ponies. From being so much together we got to
+understand each other pretty thoroughly, and we had our adventures as
+well. Once on going up a very steep hill the ponies lost their footing.
+The wagon backed and turned over, and ponies and wagon rolled over and
+over down the hill among the rocks till hung up on a cedar stump. I was
+not much hurt, but found the ponies half covered with stones and rocks
+that had rolled on to them, the wagon upside down and camping material
+scattered everywhere. Cutting the tugs and rolling the stones away the
+ponies jumped up miraculously little injured, and even the wagon still
+serviceable, but I had to walk a long way to get assistance. Then we
+have fallen through rotten bridges, stuck in rivers and quicksands, and
+all sorts of things.
+
+One pony of this team, "Punch," was really the hardiest, best-built,
+best-natured and most intelligent of any I have ever known. Many a
+time, on long trips, has the other pony played completely out and
+actually dropped on the road. But Punch seemed to be never tired. He was
+a great pet too, and could be fondled to your heart's content. He had no
+vice, yet was as full of mischief as he could possibly pack. His
+mischief, or rather playfulness, finally cost him his life, as he once
+got to teasing a bull, the bull charged, and that was his end.
+
+It was with this team too that when driving in New Mexico through a
+district where white men were seldom seen, but on a road which I had
+often selected as a shorter route to my destination, I came on a Mexican
+ill-treating his donkey. His actions were so deliberate as to rouse my
+ire, and I got down, took the club from him and threatened castigation.
+On proceeding on the road I passed another Mexican mounted on a horse
+and carrying a rifle. Happening by-and-by to look back much was my
+surprise, or perhaps not very much, to see the gun and horse handed over
+to the first man, and himself mounted and galloping after me. Knowing at
+once what it meant, that his game was to bushwhack me in the rough canon
+immediately in front, I put the whip to my team to such good purpose
+that we galloped through that canon as it had never been galloped
+through before. I would have had no show whatever in such a place, and
+so was extremely glad to find myself again in the open country.
+
+Another time I hitched up another team, one of which, a favourite
+mustang-chaser, had never been driven. We made some ten miles all right
+till we came to the "jumping-off" place of the plains, a very steep,
+long and winding descent. Just as we started down, Prince, the horse
+mentioned, got his tail over the lines, and the ball began. We went down
+that hill at racing speed, I having absolutely no control over the
+terrified animals, which did not stop for many miles. Again, with the
+same team I once started to Amarillo, being half a day ahead of the
+steer herd. First evening I camped out at a water-hole and staked out
+Prince with a long heavy rope and strong iron stake pin. The other horse
+was hobbled with a rope hobble. Some wolves came in to water, and I was
+lying on my bed looking at them when the horses suddenly stampeded, the
+strong stake rope and pin not even checking Prince. They were gone and I
+was afoot! Prince ran for forty miles to the ranch. The hobbled horse we
+never saw again for more than twelve months, but when found was fat and
+none the worse. Next day the trail outfit came along and so I hitched up
+another team.
+
+But the worst trouble I used to have was with a high-strung and almost
+intractable pair of horses, Pintos, or painted, which means piebald, a
+very handsome team indeed, whose former owner simply could not manage
+them. Every time we came to a gate through which we had to pass I, being
+alone, had to get down and throw the gate open. Then after taking the
+team through I had of course to go back to shut the gate again. Then was
+the opportunity apparently always watched for by these devils, and had I
+not tied a long rope to the lines and trailed it behind the wagon they
+would many times have succeeded in getting away.
+
+Yet it is only such a team that one can really care to drive for
+pleasure; a team that you "feel" all the time, one that will keep you
+"interested" every minute, as these Pintos did. How often nowadays does
+one ever see a carriage pair, or fours in the park or elsewhere that
+really needs "driving"?
+
+"Shipping" cattle means loading them into railroad cars and despatching
+them to their destination. The cattle are first penned in a corral and
+then run through chutes into the cars. One year I sold the Company's
+steers, a train-load, to a Jew dealer in Kansas. They were loaded in the
+Panhandle and I went through with them, having a man to help me to look
+after them, our duty being to prod them up when any were found lying
+down so they would not be trodden to death. At a certain point our
+engine "played out" and was obliged to leave us to get coal and water.
+While gone the snow (a furious blizzard was blowing) blew over the track
+and blocked it so effectively that the engine could not get back. The
+temperature was about zero and the cattle suffered terribly; but there
+we remained stuck for nearly two days. When we finally got through, of
+course the buyer refused to receive them, and I turned them over to the
+railway company and brought suit for their value. The case was thrice
+tried and we won each time; and oh, how some of these railroad men did
+damn themselves by perjury! But it is bad business to "buck" against a
+powerful railway corporation. This will serve to give an idea as to what
+shipping cattle means. Many hundreds of thousands, or even millions, are
+now shipped every year. Trail work is abandoned, being no longer
+possible on account of fences, etc. Such great towns as Chicago and
+Kansas City will each receive and dispose of in one day as many as ten
+to twenty thousand cattle, not counting sheep or hogs.
+
+It was when returning to Amarillo after this trip that I was fortunate
+enough to save the lives of a whole train-load of people. One night our
+passenger train came to a certain station, and the conductor went to get
+his orders. Nearly all the passengers were asleep. When he returned I
+happened to hear him read his orders over to the brakeman. These orders
+were to go on to a certain switch and "side track" till _three_ cattle
+trains had passed. At that point there was a very heavy grade and cattle
+trains came down it at sixty miles an hour. Two trains swung past us,
+and to my surprise the conductor then gave the signal to go ahead. We
+did start, when I at once ventured to remark to him that only two trains
+had so far gone by. He pooh-poohed my assertion; but after a few minutes
+began to think that he himself might just possibly be wrong. Meantime I
+got out on the platform and was ready to jump. The conductor most
+fortunately reversed the order, and the train was backed on to the
+siding again, none too soon, for just then the head-light of the third
+cattle train appeared round a curve and came tearing past us. It was a
+desperately narrow escape and I did not sleep again that night. Writing
+afterwards to the general manager of the railway company about it my
+letter was not even acknowledged, and of course no thanks were received.
+
+While on the subject of railroad accidents it has been my misfortune to
+have been in many of them, caused by collisions, spreading of rails,
+open switches, etc., etc., but I will only detail one or two. Once when
+travelling to Amarillo from a Convention at Fort Worth the train was
+very crowded and I occupied an upper berth in the Pullman. As American
+trains are always doing, trying to make up lost time, we were going at a
+pretty good lick when I felt the coach begin to sway. It swayed twice
+and then turned completely over and rolled down a high embankment.
+Outside was pitch dark and raining. There was a babel of yells and
+screams and callings for help. I had practically no clothes on, no
+shoes, and of course could find nothing. Everything inside, mattresses,
+bedding, curtains, baggage, clothing, babies, women and men were mixed
+up in an extraordinary way. Above me I noticed a broken window, through
+which I managed to scramble, and on finding out how things were returned
+to the coach to help other passengers. Underneath me seemed to be a
+dying man. He was in a dreadful condition and at his last gasp, etc.,
+and he made more row than the rest put together. Reaching down and
+removing mattresses, he grasped my hand, jumped up and thanked me
+profusely for _saving_ his life. He was not hurt a bit, indeed was the
+only man in the lot who escaped serious injury. The men behaved much
+worse than the women. However we soon had everybody out and the injured
+laid on blankets. Meantime a relief train had arrived with the doctor,
+etc. He examined us all, asked me if I was all right, to which I replied
+that I was, as I really felt so at the time. But in half an hour I was
+myself lying on a stretcher and unable to move, with a sprained back and
+bruised side, etc., and a claim for damages against the railway company.
+
+Another time, when riding in the caboose (the rear car) of a long
+freight train, with the conductor and brakeman, the train in going down
+a grade broke in three. The engine and a few cars went right on and left
+us; the centre part rushed down the hill, our section followed and
+crashed into it, and some seven or eight cars were completely
+telescoped. I had been seated beside the stove, my arm stretched round
+it, when, noticing our great speed, I drew the conductor's attention to
+it. He opened the side door to look out. Just then the shock came and he
+got a frightful lick on the side of the head, and myself was thrown on
+top of the hot stove; but none of us were seriously hurt.
+
+Again, once when making a trip to Kansas City and back, the whole
+Pullman train went off the track and down the embankment; and on the
+return journey we ran into an open switch and were derailed and one man
+killed. Both might have been very serious affairs.
+
+With the closing out of the Mortgage Company's interests of course my
+salaried employment came to an end. But before closing this chapter it
+should be mentioned that I had in the meantime suffered a nasty accident
+by a pony falling back on me and fracturing one leg. It occurred at the
+round-up, and I was driven some thirty miles, the leg not even splinted
+or put in a box, to my ranch. I sent off a mounted man to Las Vegas, 130
+miles, for a surgeon, but it was a week before he got down to me and the
+leg was then in a pretty bad shape. He hinted at removing it, but
+finally decided to set it and put it in plaster, which he did. He then
+left me. The leg gave me little trouble, but unfortunately peritonitis
+set in. The agony then suffered will not soon be forgotten. There was a
+particularly ignorant woman, my foreman's wife, in the house; but I had
+practically no nursing, no medicine of any kind, and the diet was hardly
+suited for a patient. The pain became so great that I was not able to
+open my mouth, dared not move a muscle, and was reduced to a mere
+skeleton. Then it occurred to my "guardians" to send once more for the
+doctor. Another week went by, and when he came I had just succeeded in
+passing the critical stage and was on the mend. In after years this
+attack led to serious complications and a most interesting operation,
+which left me, in my doctor's words, "practically without a stomach";
+and without a stomach I have jogged on comfortably for nearly ten years.
+How a little thing may lead to serious consequences! I had previously,
+and have since, had more or less serious physical troubles, but a good
+sound constitution has always pulled me through safely. Among minor
+injuries may be mentioned a broken rib, a knee-cap damaged at polo, and
+another slightly-fractured leg, caused again by a pony just purchased,
+and being tried, falling back on me; not to mention the _sigillum
+diavoli_ (don't be alarmed or shocked) which occasionally develops, and
+always at the same spot.
+
+While the round-up and turnover of the Company's cattle was proceeding,
+I thought it well to keep lots of whisky on hand to show hospitality
+(the only way) to whomsoever it was due. On receiving a large keg of it
+I put it in my buggy and drove out of camp seven or eight miles to some
+rough ground, and having, in Baden-Powell way, made myself sure no one
+was in view and no one spying on my movements I placed it amongst some
+rocks and brush in such a way that no ordinary wanderer could possibly
+see it. From this store it was my intention to fill a bottle every other
+day and so always have a stock on hand. But Kronje or De Wett was too
+"slim" for me; a few days afterwards on my going there, like a thief in
+the night--and indeed it was at night--I found the keg gone. Someone
+must have loaded up on it, someone who had deliberately watched me, and
+his joy can be easily pictured. So someone was greatly comforted, but
+not a hint ever came to me as to who the culprit was.
+
+My intercourse with M---- provided some of the closest "calls" I ever
+had (a call means a position of danger); still not so close as on a
+certain occasion, at my summer camp in Arizona, when one of the men and
+myself were playing cards together. We were alone. The man was our best
+"hand," and a capital fellow, though a fugitive from justice, like some
+of the others. It became apparent to me that he was cheating, and I was
+rash enough to let him understand that I knew it, without however
+absolutely accusing him of it. At once he pulled out his gun, leant
+over, and pointed it at me. What can one do in such a case? He had the
+"drop" on me; and demanded that I should take back what I had said.
+Well, I wriggled out of it somehow, told him he was very foolish to make
+such a "break" as that, and talked to him till he cooled down. It was an
+anxious few minutes, and I am very proud to think he did not "phase" me
+very much, as he afterwards admitted. Peace was secured with honour.
+
+I was lucky to be able to leave the West and the cattle business with a
+hide free from perforations and punctures of any kind.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+ODDS AND ENDS
+
+     Summer Round-up Notes--Night Guarding--Stampedes--Bronco
+     Busting--Cattle Branding, etc.
+
+
+Round-up and trail work had many agreeable aspects, and though it was at
+times very hard work, still I look back to it all with fond memories.
+The hours were long--breakfast was already cooked and "chuck" called
+long before sunrise; horses were changed, the night horses turned loose
+and a fresh mount for the morning's work caught out of the ramuda. By
+the time breakfast was over it was generally just light enough to see
+dimly the features of the country. The boss then gave his orders to the
+riders as to where to go and what country to round-up, also the round-up
+place at noon. He started the day-herd off grazing towards the same
+place, and finally saw the wagon with its four mules loaded up and
+despatched. There was generally a "circus" every morning on the men
+starting out to their work. On a cold morning a cow-horse does not like
+to be very tightly cinched or girthed up. He resents it by at once
+beginning to buck furiously as soon as his rider gets into his saddle.
+
+[Illustration: CHANGING HORSES.]
+
+Even staid old horses will do it on a very cold morning. But the "young
+uns," the broncos, are then perfect fiends. Thus there is nearly always
+some sport to begin the day with. By noon the round-up has been
+completed and a large herd of cattle collected. Separating begins at
+once, first cows and calves, then steers and "dry" cattle, the property
+of the different owners represented. Dinner is ready by twelve, horses
+changed again and the day-herd is watered, and then the branding of the
+calves begins. But wait. _Such_ a dinner! With few appliances it is
+really wonderful how a mess-wagon cook feeds the crowd so well. His fuel
+is "chips" (_bois des vaches_); with a spade he excavates a sunken
+fireplace, and over this erects an iron rod on which to hang pots, etc.
+He will make the loveliest fresh bread and rolls at least once a day,
+often twice; make most excellent coffee (and what a huge coffee-pot is
+needed for twenty or thirty thirsty cowpunchers), serve potatoes, stewed
+or fried meat, baked beans and stewed dried fruit, etc. Everything was
+good, so cleanly served and served so quickly. True, any kind of a mess
+tastes well to the hungry man, but I think that even a dyspeptic's
+appetite would become keen when he approached the cattleman's chuck
+wagon. Dinner over the wagon is again loaded up, the twenty or more beds
+thrown in, the team hitched and started for the night camping-ground,
+some place where there is lots of good grass for the cattle and saddle
+horses, and at the same time far enough away from all the other herds.
+The saddle horses in charge of the horse "wrangler" accompany the wagon.
+The men are either grazing and drifting the day-herd towards the camp,
+or branding morning calves, not in a corral but on the open prairie. The
+calves, and probably some grown cattle to be branded, must be caught
+with the rope, and here is where the roper's skill is shown to most
+advantage. At sundown all the men have got together again, night horses
+are selected, supper disposed of, beds prepared and a quiet smoke
+enjoyed.
+
+If a horse-hair rope be laid on the ground around one's bed no snake
+will ever cross it. But during work the beds are seldom made down till
+after sunset, by which time rattlesnakes have all retired into holes or
+amongst brush, and so there is little danger from them.
+
+First "guard" goes out to take charge of the herd. The herd has already
+been "bedded" down carefully at convenient distance from the wagon.
+Bedding down means bunching them together very closely, just leaving
+them enough room to lie down comfortably. They, if they have been well
+grazed and watered, will soon all be lying resting, chewing their cuds
+and at peace with the world. Each night-guard consists of two to four
+men according to the size of the herd, and "stands" two to four hours.
+The horse herd is also guarded by "reliefs." In fine weather it is no
+great hardship to be called out at any hour of the night, but if it
+should be late in autumn and snow falling, or, what is worse still, if
+there be a cold rain and a bitter wind it is very trying to be compelled
+to leave your warm bed at twelve or three in the morning, get on to your
+poor shivering horse and stand guard for three hours.
+
+It should be explained that "standing" means not absolute inaction but
+slowly riding round and round the herd. Yes, it is trying, especially in
+bad weather and after working hard all day long from before sun-up. How
+well one gets to know the stars and their positions! The poor
+night-herders know that a certain star will set or be in such and such a
+position at the time for the next relief. Often when dead tired, sleepy
+and cold, how eagerly have I watched my own star's apparently very slow
+movement. The standard watch is at the wagon, and must not be "monkeyed"
+with, a trick sometimes played on tenderfeet. Immediately time for
+relief is up the next is called, and woe betide them if they delay
+complying with the summons. Of course the owner or manager does not
+have to take part in night-herding, but the boys think more of him if he
+does, and certainly the man he relieves appreciates it.
+
+In continued wet and cold weather such as we were liable to have late in
+October or November, when it might rain and drizzle for a week or two at
+a time, our beds would get very wet and there would be no sun to dry
+them.
+
+Consequently we practically slept in wet, not damp, blankets for days at
+a time; and to return from your guard about two in the morning and get
+into such an uninviting couch was trying to one's temper, of course.
+Even one's "goose haar piller," as the boys called their feather pillow,
+might be sodden. To make your bed in snow or be snowed over is not
+nearly so bad.
+
+No tents were ever seen on the round-up. Everyone slept on the open bare
+ground. But for use during my long drives across country I got to using
+a small Sibley tent, nine feet by nine feet, which had a canvas floor
+attached to the walls, and could be closed up at night so as to
+effectually prevent the entrance of skunks and other vermin. This tent
+had no centre pole whatever. You simply drove in the four corner
+stake-pins, raised the two light rods over it triangularwise, and by a
+pulley and rope hoist up the peak. The two rods were very thin, light
+and jointed; and in taking the tent down you simply loosed the rope,
+knocked out the stake-pins, and that was all.
+
+During these long guarding spells you practically just sit in your
+saddle for four hours at a stretch. You cannot take exercise and you
+dare not get down to walk or you will stampede the cattle. But, yes, you
+may gallop to camp if you know the direction, and drink a cup of hot
+strong coffee, which in bad weather is kept on the fire all night,
+re-light your pipe and return to "sing" to the cattle.
+
+Then the quiet of these huge animals is impressive. About midnight they
+will get a bit restless, many will get on their feet, have a stretch and
+a yawn, puff, cough and blow and in other ways relieve themselves, and
+if allowed will start out grazing; but they are easily driven back and
+will soon be once more resting quietly.
+
+The stampeding of the herd on such a night is almost a relief. It at
+once effectually wakes you up, gets you warm, and keeps you interested
+for the rest of your spell, even if it does not keep you out for the
+rest of the night.
+
+I should explain that "singing" to the cattle refers to the habit
+cowboys have, while on night-guard, of singing (generally a sing-song
+refrain) as they slowly ride round the herd. It relieves the monotony,
+keeps the cattle quiet and seems to give them confidence, for they
+certainly appear to rest quieter while they know that men are guarding
+them, and are not so liable to stampede.
+
+Stampeding is indeed a very remarkable bovine characteristic. Suppose a
+herd of cattle, say 2000 steers, to be quietly and peacefully lying down
+under night-guard. The air is calm and clear. It may be bright
+moonlight, or it may be quite dark; nothing else is moving. Apparently
+there is nothing whatever to frighten them or even disturb them; most of
+them are probably sound asleep, when suddenly like a shot they, the
+whole herd, are on their feet and gone--gone off at a more or less
+furious gallop. All go together. The guard are of course at once all
+action; the men asleep in camp are waked by the loud drumming of the
+thousands of hoofs on the hard ground and at once rush for their horses
+to assist. The stampede must be stopped and there is only one way to do
+it--to get up to the lead animals and try to swing them round with the
+object of getting them to move in a circle, to "mill" as we called it.
+But the poor beasts meantime are frantic with fear and excitement and
+you must ride hard at your level best, and look out you don't get
+knocked over and perhaps fatally trampled on. You must know your
+business and work on one plan with your fellow-herders. On a pitch dark
+night in a rough country it is very dangerous indeed. The cattle may
+run only a short distance or they may run ten miles, and after being
+quieted again may once more stampede. Indeed, I took a herd once to
+Amarillo and they stampeded the first night on the trail and kept it up
+pretty near every night during the drive. But, as said before, the
+remarkable part of the performance is the instantaneous nature of the
+shock or whatever it is that goes through the slumbering herd, and the
+quickness of their getting off the bed-ground. Cow and calf herds are
+not so liable to stampede, but horses are distinctly bad and will run
+for miles at terrific speed. Then you must just try and stay with them
+and bring them back when they stop, as you can hardly expect to outrun
+them. Still, I do not think that stampeded horses are quite so crazy as
+cattle, and they get over their fright quicker.
+
+Let me try to illustrate a little better an actual stampede. The night
+was calm, clear, but very dark--no moon, and the stars dimmed by fleecy
+cloud strata. The herd of some 2000 steers was bedded down, and had so
+far given no trouble. Supper was over and the first guard on duty, the
+rest of the men lying on their beds chatting and smoking. Each man while
+not on duty has his saddled horse staked close by. Soon everyone has
+turned in for the night. A couple of hours later the first guard come
+in, their spell being over, and the second relief takes their place.
+The cattle are quiet; not a sound breaks the silence except the low
+crooning of some of the boys on duty. But suddenly, what is that
+noise?--like the distant rumbling of guns on the march, or of a heavy
+train crossing a wooden bridge! To one with his head on the ground the
+earth seems almost to tremble. Oh, we know it well! It is the beating of
+8000 hoofs on the hard ground. The cowboy recognizes the dreaded sound
+instantly: it wakens him quicker than anything else. The boss is already
+in his saddle, has summoned the other men, and is off at full gallop.
+The cook gets up, re-trims his lamp, and hangs it as high on the wagon
+top as he can, to be visible as far as possible. It is good two miles
+before we catch up on the stampeded herd, still going at a mad gallop.
+The men are on flank trying to swing them round. But someone seems to be
+in front, as we soon can hear pistol-shots fired in a desperate
+endeavour to stop the lead steers. But even that is no avail, and indeed
+is liable to split the herd in two and so double the work. So the
+thundering race continues, and it is only after many miles have been
+covered that the cattle have run themselves out and we finally get them
+quietened down and turned homewards. Someone is sent out scouting round
+to try to get a view of the cook's lantern and so know our whereabouts.
+But have we got all the cattle? The men are questioned. Where's Pete?
+and where's Red? There must be cattle gone and these two men are staying
+with them. Well, we'll take the herd on anyway, bed them down again, get
+fresh horses, and then hunt up the missing bunch. So, the cattle once
+more "bedded," and every spare hand left with them, as they are liable
+to run again, two of us start out to find if possible the missing men.
+We first take a careful note of the position of any stars that may be
+visible, then start out at an easy lope or canter. It is so dark that it
+seems a hopeless task to find them. Good luck alone may guide us right;
+and good luck serves us well, for after having come some eight or nine
+miles we hear a man "hollering" to us. He had heard our horses' tread,
+and was no doubt mightily relieved at our coming, as of course he was
+completely lost in the darkness and had wisely not made any attempt to
+find his way. But there he was, good fellow, Red! with his little bunch
+of 200 steers. Yes, the herd had split, that's how it was. But where is
+Pete? Oh! he doesn't know; last saw him heading the stampede; never saw
+him since. Can he be lost and still wandering round? That is not likely,
+and we begin to suspect trouble. The small herd is directed campwards,
+and some of us again scout round, halloing and shouting, but keeping our
+eyes well "skinned" for anything on the ground. At last, by the merest
+chance, we come on something; no doubt what it is--the body of a man.
+"Hallo, Pete! What's the matter?" He stirs. "Are you badly hurt?"
+"Dog-gone it, fellows, glad to see you! My horse fell and some cattle
+ran over me. No! I ain't badly hurt; but I guess you'll have to carry me
+home." The poor fellow had several ribs broken, was dreadfully bruised,
+and his left cheek was nearly sliced off. There we had to leave him till
+morning, one of us staying by. Happily Pete got all right again.
+
+Breaking young colts was a somewhat crude process. Not being of the same
+value as better bred stock they were rather roughly treated. If you have
+a number to break you will hire a professional "bronco-buster"; for some
+five dollars a head he will turn them back to you in a remarkably short
+time, bridle-wise, accustomed to the saddle and fairly gentle. But he
+does not guarantee against pitching. Some colts never pitch at all
+during the process, do not seem to know how; but the majority do know,
+and know well! The colt is roped in a corral by the forefeet, jerked
+down, and his head held till bridled; or he is roped round the neck,
+snubbed to a post and so held till he chokes himself by straining on the
+running loop. As soon as he falls a man jumps on to his head and holds
+it firmly in such a way that he cannot get up, and someone slips on the
+Hackamore bridle. Thus you will see that a horse lying on its side
+requires his muzzle as a lever to get him on his feet. Then he is
+allowed to rise and to find, though he may not then realize it, that his
+wild freedom is gone from him for ever. He is trembling with fright and
+excitement, and sweating from every pore. To get the saddle on him he is
+next blindfolded. A strong man grasps the left ear and another man
+slowly approaches and, after quietly and kindly rubbing and patting him,
+gently puts the saddle blanket in place; then the huge and heavy saddle
+with all its loose strings and straps is carefully hoisted and adjusted,
+and the cinch drawn up. In placing the blanket and the saddle there will
+likely be several failures. He will be a poor-spirited horse that does
+not resent it. Now take off the blinders and let him pitch till he is
+tired. Then comes the mounting. He is blinded again, again seized by the
+ear, the cinch pulled very tight, and the rider mounts into the saddle.
+It may be best first to lead him outside the corral, so that he can run
+right off with his man if he wants to. But he won't run far, as he soon
+exhausts himself in his rage and with his tremendous efforts to dismount
+his rider. A real bad one will squeal like a pig, fall back, roll over,
+kick and apparently tie himself into knots. If mastered the first time
+it is a great advantage gained. But should he throw his rider once,
+twice or several times he never forgets that the thing is at least
+possible, and so he may repeat his capers for a long time to come. All
+cow-horses have ever afterwards a holy dread of the rope, never
+forgetting its power and effect experienced during the breaking process.
+Thus, in roping a broken horse on the open or in a corral, if your rope
+simply lies _over_ his neck, and yet not be round it, he will probably
+stop running and resign himself to capture. Even the commonly-used
+single rope corral, held up by men at the corners, they will not try to
+break through. Bronco-busters only last a few years, the hard jarring
+affects their lungs and other organs so disastrously.
+
+One of our men, with the kindest consideration, much appreciated,
+confidentially showed me a simple method of tying up a bronco's head
+with a piece of thin rope, adjusted in a particular way, which made
+pitching or bucking almost, but not always, an impossibility. He was
+perhaps a little shamefaced in doing so, but such sensibility was not
+for me; anything to save one from the horrible shaking up and jarring of
+a pitching horse! And yet there was always the inclination to fix the
+string surreptitiously. Much better that the boys should _not_ see it.
+
+[Illustration: A REAL BAD ONE.]
+
+It may be said here that a horse has a lightning knowledge as to
+whether his rider be afraid of him or not, and acts accordingly. In
+branding my method was to simply tie up one forefoot and blindfold the
+colt, when a small and properly-hot stamp-iron can be quickly and
+effectively applied before he quite knows what is hurting him.
+
+In early days we used only Spanish Mexican broncos for cow-ponies. They
+were broken bridle-wise, and perhaps had been ridden a few times. Bands
+of them were driven north to our country, and for about fifteen dollars
+apiece you might make a selection of the number wanted, say twenty to
+fifty head. Some of these ponies would turn out very well, some of
+little use. You took your chances, and in distributing them amongst the
+men very critical eyes were cast over them, you may be sure, as the boys
+had to ride them no matter what their natures might turn out to be. Such
+ponies were hardy, intelligent, active, and stood a tremendous amount of
+work. Later a larger stamp of cow-horse came into use, even horses with
+perhaps a distant and minute drop of Diomede's blood in them--Diomede,
+who won the first Derby stakes, run for in the Isle of Man by the way,
+and who was sold to America to become the father of United States
+thoroughbreds and progenitor of the great Lexington. But such "improved"
+horses could never do the cow work so well as the old original Spanish
+cayuse.
+
+In a properly-organized cattle country all cattle brands must be
+recorded at the County seat. Because of the prodigious number and
+variety of brands of almost every conceivable pattern and device it is
+difficult to adopt a quite new and safe one that does not conflict in
+some way with others. This for the honest man; the crooked man, the
+thief, the brand-burner is not so troubled. _He_ will select a brand
+such as others already in use may be easily changed into. To give a very
+few instances. If his own brand be 96 and another's 91 the conversion is
+easy. If it be [**#] and another's [**-II-] it is equally easy; or if it
+be [**3--E], as was one of our own brands, the conversion of it into
+[**d--B] is too temptingly simple. It was only after much consideration
+that I adopted for my own personal brand [**U]--a mule shoe on the left
+hip and jaw. It was small and did not damage the hide too much, was
+easily stamped on, looked well and was pretty safe. Among brands I have
+seen was HELL in large letters covering the animal's whole side.
+
+With a band of horses a bell-mare (madrina) is sometimes used. The mare
+is gentle, helps to keep the lot together, and the bell lets you know on
+a dark night where they are. With a lot of mules a madrina is always
+used, as her charges will never leave her.
+
+All the grooming cow-ponies get is self-administered. After a long ride,
+on pulling the saddle off, the pony is turned loose, when he at once
+proceeds to roll himself from one side to another, finishing up with a
+"shake" before he goes off grazing. If he has been overridden he may not
+succeed in rolling completely over. This is regarded as a sure sign that
+he has been overridden, and you know that he will take some days, or
+even maybe weeks, to recover from it. I have seen horses brought in
+absolutely staggering and trembling and so turned loose. A favourite
+mount is seldom so mistreated; and if the boss is present the rider
+knows he will take a note of it. One can imagine how delightful and
+refreshing this roll and shake must be, quite as refreshing as a cold
+bath (would be) to the tired and perspiring rider. Alas! cold or hot
+baths are not obtainable by the cattleman for possibly months at a time.
+The face and hands alone can receive attention. The new and modern idea
+of bodily self-cleansing is here effectually put in force and apparently
+with good health results. The rivers when in flood are extremely muddy;
+when not they are very shallow, and the water is usually alkaline and
+undrinkable, as well as quite useless for bathing purposes.
+
+Cow-ponies generally have sound feet and durable hoofs, but in very
+sandy countries the hoofs will spread out in a most astonishing way and
+need constant trimming.
+
+In droughty countries like Arizona and New Mexico we were frequently
+reduced to serious straits to find decent drinking-water. On many
+occasions I have drunk, and drunk with relief and satisfaction, such
+filthy, slimy, greenish-looking stuff as would disgust a frog and give
+the _Lancet_ a fit, though that discriminating journal would probably
+call it soup. Sometimes even water, and I well remember the places, that
+was absolutely a struggling mass of small red creatures that yet really
+tasted not at all badly. Anyway it was better than the green slime.
+Thirst is a sensation that must be satisfied at any cost. Once when
+travelling in the South Arizona country, we being all strung out in
+Indian file, over a dozen of us, the lead man came on a most
+enticing-looking pool of pure water. Of course he at once jumped off,
+took a hearty draught, spat it out and probably made a face, but saying
+nothing rode quietly on. The next man did the same, and so it went on
+till our predecessors had each and all the satisfaction of knowing that
+he was not the only man fooled. The water was so hot, though showing no
+sign of it, that it was quite undrinkable--a very hot spring.
+
+In the alkali district on the Pecos River the dust raised at a round-up
+is so dense that the herd cannot even be seen at 200 yards distance.
+This dust is most irritating to the eyes; and many of the men, including
+myself, were sometimes so badly affected that they had to stop work for
+weeks at a time.
+
+In circuses and Wild-West shows one frequently sees cowgirls on the
+bill. Of course, on actual work on the range there is no such thing as a
+cowgirl. At least I never saw one.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+ON MY OWN RANCH
+
+     Locating--Plans--Prairie Fires and
+     Guards--Bulls--Trading--Successful Methods--Loco-weed--Sale of
+     Ranch.
+
+
+A year before selling out the Company's cattle I had started a small
+ranch for myself. Seeing that it was quite hopeless to run cattle
+profitably on the open-range system, and having longing eyes on a
+certain part of the plains which was covered with very fine grass and
+already fenced on one side by the Texas line--knowing also quite well
+that fencing of public land in New Mexico was strictly against the law
+(land in the territories is the property of the Federal Government,
+which will neither lease it nor sell it, but holds it for
+home-steading)--I yet went to work, bought a lot of wire and posts, gave
+a contract to a fence-builder and boldly ran a line over thirty miles
+long enclosing something like 100,000 acres. The location was part of
+the country where our stock horses used to run with the mustangs, and so
+I knew every foot of it pretty well. There was practically no limit to
+the acreage I might have enclosed; and I had then the choice of all
+sorts of country--country with lots of natural shelter for cattle, and
+even country where water in abundance could be got close to the surface.
+In my selected territory I knew quite well that it was very deep to
+water and that it would cost a lot of money in the shape of deep wells
+and powerful windmills to get it out; yet it was for this very reason
+that I so selected it. Would not the country in a few years swarm with
+settlers ("nesters" as we called small farmers), and would they not of
+course first select the land where water was shallow? They could not
+afford to put in expensive wells and windmills. Thus I argued, and thus
+it turned out exactly as anticipated. The rest of the country became
+settled up by these nesters, but I was left alone for some eight years
+absolutely undisturbed and in complete control of this considerable
+block of land. More than that the County Assessor and collector actually
+missed me for two years, not even knowing of my existence; and for the
+whole period of eight years I never paid one cent for rent. On my
+windmill locations I put "Scrip" in blocks of forty acres. Otherwise I
+owned or rented not a foot.
+
+Just a line or two here. I happen to have known the man who invented
+barbed wire and who had his abundant reward. Blessings on him! though
+one is sometimes inclined to add cursings too. It is dangerous stuff to
+handle. Heavy gloves should always be worn. The flesh is so torn by the
+ragged barb that the wound is most irritating and hard to heal. When my
+fence was first erected it was a common thing to find antelope hung up
+in it, tangled in it, and cut to pieces. Once we found a mustang horse
+with its head practically cut completely off. The poor brutes had a hard
+experience in learning the nature of this strange, almost invisible,
+death-trap stretched across what was before their own free, open and
+boundless territory. And what frightful wounds some of the ponies would
+occasionally suffer by perhaps trying to jump over such a fence or even
+force their way through it; ponies from the far south, equally ignorant
+with the antelope of the dangers of the innocent-looking slender wire.
+In another way these fences were sometimes the cause of loss of beast
+life, as for instance when some of my cattle drifted against the fence
+during a thunder and rain storm and a dozen of them were killed by one
+stroke of lightning.
+
+Into this preserve my cattle-breeding stock were put: very few in number
+to begin with, yet as many as my means afforded. My Company job and
+salary would soon be a thing of the past and my future must depend
+entirely on the success of this undertaking. Once before I had boldly,
+perhaps rashly, taken a lease of a celebrated steer pasture in Carson
+County, Texas, and gone to Europe to try and float a company, the
+proposition being to use the pasture, then, and still, the very best in
+Texas, for wintering yearling steers. No sounder proposition or more
+promising one could have been put forward. But all my efforts to get the
+capital needed failed and it was fortunate for me that at the end of one
+year I succeeded in getting a cancellation of the lease. On first
+securing the lease the season was well advanced and it became an anxiety
+to me as to where I should get cattle to put in the pasture, if only
+enough to pay the year's rent--some 7000 dollars. One man, a canny
+Scotsman, had been holding and grazing a large herd of 4000 two-year-old
+steers, all in one straight brand, on the free range just outside. He
+knew I wanted cattle and I knew he wanted grass, as he could not find a
+buyer and the season was late. We both played "coon," but I must say I
+began to feel a bit uncomfortable. At last greatly to my relief and joy,
+he approached me, and after a few minutes' dickering I had the
+satisfaction of counting into pasture this immense herd of 4000 cattle.
+Meantime, I had also been corresponding with another party and very soon
+afterwards closed a deal with him for some 3700 more two-year-old
+steers. Thus with 7700 head the pasture was nearly fully stocked, the
+rent for the first year was assured, and I prepared to go to the Old
+Country to form the company before mentioned. But before going I found
+it necessary to throw in a hundred or so old cows to keep the steers
+quiet. The steers had persisted in walking the fences, travelling in
+great strings round and round the pasture. They had lots of grass, water
+and salt, but something else was evidently lacking. Immediately the cows
+were turned loose all the uneasiness and dissatisfaction ceased. No more
+fence walking and no more danger (for me) of them breaking out. The
+family life seemed complete. The suddenness of the effect was very
+remarkable. This pasture has ever since been used solely for my proposed
+purpose and every year has been a tremendous success.
+
+First of all a word about my house and home. Built on what may be called
+the Spanish plan, of adobes (sun-dried bricks), the walls were 2-1/2
+feet thick, and there was a courtyard in the centre. Particular
+attention was paid to the roof, which was first boarded over, then on
+the boards three inches of mud, and over that sheets of corrugated iron.
+The whole idea of the adobes and the mud being to secure a cool
+temperature in summer and warmth in winter. No other materials are so
+effective.
+
+As explained before, there were no trees or shrubs of any kind within a
+radius of many miles. So to adorn this country seat I cut and threw
+into my buggy one day a young shoot of cotton-wood tree, hauled it
+fifty miles to the ranch, and stuck it in the centre of the court. Water
+was never too plentiful; so why not make use of the soap-suddy washings
+which the boys and all of us habitually threw out there? When the tree
+did grow up, and it thrived amazingly, its shade became the recognized
+lounging-place. With a few flowering shrubs added the patio assumed
+quite a pretty aspect. Another feature of the house was that the
+foundations were laid so deep, and of rock, that skunks could not burrow
+underneath, which is quite a consideration. Under my winter cottage at
+the Meadows Ranch in Arizona skunks always denned and lay up during the
+cold weather, selecting a point immediately under the warm hearthstone.
+There, as one sat reading over the fire, these delightful animals,
+within a foot of you, would carry on their family wrangles and in their
+excitement give evidence of their own nature; but happily the offence
+was generally a very mild one and evidently not maliciously intended.
+
+Around the house was planted a small orchard and attempts were made at
+vegetable-growing. But water was too scarce to do the plants justice.
+Everything must be sacrificed to the cattle. One lesson it taught me,
+however, and that is that no matter how much water you irrigate with,
+one good downpour from Nature's fertilizing watering-can is worth more
+than weeks of irrigation. Rain water has a quality of its own which well
+or tank water cannot supply. Plants respond to it at once by adopting a
+cheery, healthy aspect. It had another equally valuable character in
+that it destroyed the overwhelming bugs. How it destroyed them I don't
+know: perhaps it drowned them; anyway they disappeared at once.
+
+In my own pasture in New Mexico I for various reasons decided to
+"breed," instead of simply handle steers. Steers were certainly safer
+and surer, and the life was an easy one. But there appeared to me
+greater possibilities in breeding if the cows were handled right and
+taken proper care of. It will be seen by-and-by that my anticipations
+were more than justified, so that the success of this little ranch has
+been a source of pride to me.
+
+The ranch was called "Running Water," because situated on Running Water
+Draw, a creek that never to my knowledge "ran" except after a very heavy
+rain. Prairie fires were the greatest danger in this level range
+country, there being no rivers, canons, or even roads to check their
+advance. Lightning might set the grass afire; a match carelessly dropped
+by the cigarette-smoker; a camp fire not properly put out; or any
+mischievously-inclined individual might set the whole country ablaze.
+Indeed, the greatest prairie fire I have record of was maliciously
+started to windward of my ranch by an ill-disposed neighbour (one of the
+men whose cattle the Scotch Company had closed out and who ever after
+had a grudge against me) purposely to burn me out. He did not quite
+succeed, as by hard fighting all night we managed to save half the
+grass; but the fire extended 130 miles into Texas, burning out a strip
+from thirty to sixty miles wide. On account of a very high wind blowing
+that fire jumped my "guard," a term which needs explanation. All round
+my pasture, on the outside of the fence, for a distance of over forty
+miles was ploughed a fire-guard thus: two or three ploughed furrows and,
+100 feet apart, other two or three ploughed furrows, there being thus a
+strip of land forty miles long and 100 feet wide. Between these furrows
+we burnt the grass, an operation that required great care and yet must
+be done as expeditiously as possible to save time, labour and expense. A
+certain amount of wind must be blowing so as to insure a clean and rapid
+burn; but a high gusty wind is most dangerous, as the flames are pretty
+sure to jump the furrows, enter the pasture, and get away from you. The
+excitement at such a critical time is of course very great. In such
+cases it was at first our practice to catch and kill a yearling, split
+it open and hitch ropes to the hind feet, when two of us mounted men
+would drag the entire carcass over the line of fire. It was effective
+but an expensive and cumbrous method. Later I adopted a device called a
+"drag," composed of iron chains, in the nature of a harrow, covered by a
+raw hide for smothering purposes. This could be dragged quite rapidly
+and sometimes had to be used over miles and miles of encroaching fire.
+The horses might get badly burnt, and in very rank grass where the
+fierce flames were six to eight feet high it was useless. Sometimes we
+worked all night, and no doubt it formed a picturesque spectacle and a
+scene worthy of an artist's brush. Across the centre of the pasture for
+further safety, as also around the bull and horse pasture, was a similar
+fire-guard, so that I had in all some fifty-five miles of guard to
+plough and burn. It is such critical and dangerous, yet necessary, work
+that I always took care to be present myself and personally boss the
+operation. Without such a fire-guard one is never free from anxiety.
+Many other ranchers who were careless in this matter paid dearly for it.
+These fires were dangerous in other ways. A dear old friend of mine was
+caught by and burnt to death in one. Another man, a near neighbour, when
+driving a team of mules, got caught likewise, and very nearly lost his
+life. He was badly burnt and lost his team.
+
+Hitherto it had been the universal custom of cattlemen to use "grade"
+bulls, many of them, alas! mere "scrubs" of no breeding at all. No one
+used pure-bred registered bulls except to raise "grade" bulls with. I
+determined to use "registered" pure-bred bulls alone, and no others, to
+raise _steers_ with, and was the first man to my knowledge to do so.
+Neighbours ridiculed the idea, saying that they would not get many
+calves, that they could not or would not "rustle"--that is, they would
+not get about with the cows--that they would need nursing and feeding
+and would not stand the climate. Well, I went east, selected and bought
+at very reasonable figures the number needed, all very high bred, indeed
+some of them fashionably so, and took them to the ranch. By the way,
+bulls were not called bulls in "polite" society: you must call them
+"males." Very shortly afterwards there was a rise in value of cattle, a
+strong demand for such bulls, and prices went "out of sight." Thus the
+bulls that cost me some 100 dollars apiece in a little while were worth
+200 or even 300 dollars. The young bulls "rustled" splendidly, and as
+next spring came along there was much interest felt as to results. To my
+great delight almost every cow had a calf, and nearly every calf was
+alike red body and white face, etc. (Hereford). I kept and used these
+same bulls six or seven seasons; every year got the highest calf-brand
+or crop amongst all my neighbours; and soon, with prudent culling of the
+cows, my small herd (some 2000) was the best in the country; and my
+young steers topped the market, beating even the crack herds that had
+been established for twenty years and had great reputations.
+
+To give an instance: my principle was to work with little or no borrowed
+money. Thus my position was such that I did not always _have_ to market
+my steers to pay running expenses; and as I hate trading and dickering,
+as it is called, my independence gave me a strong position. Well, once
+when travelling to the ranch I met on the train two "feeders" from the
+north, who told me they wanted to buy two or three hundred choice
+two-year-old, high-bred, even, well-coloured and well-shaped steers.
+Having by chance some photos in my pocket of my steers (as yearlings
+taken the year before) I produced them. They seemed pleased with them
+and asked the price, which I told them; but they said no ranch cattle
+were worth that money and ridiculed the idea of my asking it. "Oh," I
+said, "it is nothing to me; that is the price of the cattle," but I
+carefully also told them how to get to my place and invited them to come
+and see me. Oh, no! they said it was too ridiculous! We travelled on to
+Amarillo and I at once went out to Running Water. Only two days
+afterwards, on coming in to dinner, I found my two gentlemen seated on
+the porch waiting for me. After dinner we saddled up and went out to see
+the steers. The dealers were evidently surprised and made a long and
+careful inspection. Evidently they were well pleased, and on returning
+to the house it was also evident that they were going to adopt the usual
+tactics of whittling a small piece of wood (a seemingly necessary
+accompaniment to a trade) and "dickering"; so I again told them my
+terms, same as before, and hinted that they might take or leave them as
+they liked. The deal was closed without further ado, some money put up,
+and next day I started for England, leaving to the foreman the duty and
+responsibility of delivering the steers at the date specified. These
+men, like most other operators, were dealing with borrowed money got
+from commission houses in Kansas City. I learnt afterwards that their
+Kansas City friends, on hearing of the trade, refused to supply the
+funds till they had sent a man out specially to see the two-year-old
+steers that could possibly be worth so much money. He came out, saw
+them, and reported them to be well worth the price; and they were
+acknowledged to be the finest small bunch of steers ever shipped out of
+the south-west country. This was very gratifying indeed.
+
+Another revolution in ranch practice was the keeping up of my bulls in
+winter-time and not putting them out with the cows till the middle of
+July. This also met with the ridicule of all the "old-timers"; but it
+was entirely successful! The calf crop was not only a very large one but
+the calves were dropped all about the same time, were thus of an even
+age (an important matter for dealers), and they "came" when their
+mothers were strong and had lots of milk.
+
+Young cows and heifers having their first calves had to be watched very
+closely, and we had often to help them in delivery. It may also be
+mentioned here that the sight of a green, freshly-skinned hide, or a
+freshly-skinned carcass, will frequently cause cows to "slink" their
+calves. The smell of blood too creates a tremendous commotion amongst
+the cattle generally; why, is not quite known.
+
+I also made a practice in early spring of taking up weak or poor cows
+that looked like needing it, putting them in a separate pasture and
+feeding them on just two pounds of cotton-seed meal once a day; no hay,
+only the dry, wild grass in the small pasture. The good effect of even
+such a pittance of meal was simply astounding. Thereafter I do not think
+I ever lost a single cow from poverty or weakness. This use of meal on
+a range ranch was in its way also a novelty. Afterwards it became
+general and prices of cotton-seed and cotton-seed meal doubled and more.
+
+When a very large number of range cattle, say 2000 or so, required
+feeding on account of poverty, hay in our country not being obtainable,
+cotton-seed (whole) would be fed to them by the simple and effective
+method of loading a large wagon with it, driving it over the pasture,
+and scattering thinly, not dumping, the seed on to the grass sod. The
+cattle would soon get so fond of it that they would come running as soon
+as the wagon appeared and follow it up in a long string, the strongest
+and greediest closest to the wagon, the poor emaciated, poverty-stricken
+ones tailing off in the rear. But not one single seed was wasted,
+everyone being gleaned and picked up in a very short time. It is the
+best, easiest and most effective way: indeed, the only possible way with
+such a large number of claimants. And as said before, the recuperating
+effect of this cotton-seed is simply astonishing. It may be noted,
+however, that if fed in bulk and to excess the animals will sometimes go
+blind, which must be guarded against.
+
+In the matter of salt it had become the common practice to use sacked
+stuff (pulverized) for cattle. There was a strong prejudice against
+rock salt; so much so that when I decided to buy a carload or two it had
+to be specially ordered. Another laugh was raised at my proposed use of
+it. The cattle would get sore tongues, or they would spend so long a
+time licking it they would have no time to graze, etc., etc. Meantime I
+had lost some cows by their too quick lapping of the pulverized stuff.
+Thereafter I never lost one from such a cause and the cattle throve
+splendidly. Besides, the rock salt was much easier handled and
+considerably more economical.
+
+My wells were deep, none less than 250 feet, the iron casing 10-inch
+diameter, the pipe 6-inch or 8-inch, and the mill-wheels 20 feet in
+diameter; this huge wind power being necessary to pump up from such a
+depth a sufficiency of water. The water was pumped directly into very
+large shallow drinking wooden tubs, thence into big reserve earthen
+tanks (fenced in), and thence again led by pipe to other large
+drinking-tubs outside and below the tanks, supplied with floating
+stop-valves. This arrangement, arrived at after much deliberation,
+worked very well indeed; no water was wasted, and it was always clean;
+and in very cold weather the cattle always got warm, freshly-pumped well
+water in the upper tub, an important matter and one reason why my cattle
+always did so well. But oh, dear! the trouble and work we often had
+with these wells! Perhaps in zero temperature something would go wrong
+with the pump valve or the piston leather would wear out, or in a new
+well the quicksand would work in. Neither myself, foreman nor boy was an
+expert or had any mechanical knowledge; though continued troubles, much
+hard work, accompanied by, alas! harder language, was a capital
+apprenticeship. In bitter cold freezing weather I well remember we once
+had to pull out the rods and the piping three times in succession before
+we got the damned thing into shape, and then we did not know what had
+been the matter. To pull up first 250 feet of heavy rod, disjoint it,
+and lay it carefully aside; then pull up 250 feet of 6-inch or 8-inch
+iron piping, in 20-feet lengths, clamp and disjoint it, and put it
+carefully aside; then to use the sand-bucket to get the sand out of the
+well if necessary; repair and put into proper shape the valve and
+cylinder, etc.; then (and these are all parts of one operation),
+re-lower and connect the 250 feet of heavy piping, the equally long
+rods, and attach to the mill itself--oh, what anxiety to know if it was
+going to work or not! On this particular occasion, as stated, we--self,
+foreman and one boy--actually had to go through this tedious and
+dangerous performance three times in succession! To pull out the piping
+great power is needed, and we at first used a capstan made on the ranch
+and worked by hand. But it was slow work, very slow, and very hard work
+too; afterwards we used a stout, steady team of horses, with double
+tackle, and found it to work much more expeditiously. But there was
+always a great and ever-present danger of the pipe slipping, or a clamp,
+a bolt, or a hook, or even the rope breaking with disastrous results.
+
+These wells and mills afforded any disgruntled cowhand or "friendly"
+neighbour a simple and convenient opportunity of "getting even," as a
+single small nail dropped down a pipe at once clogged the valve and
+rendered the tedious operation necessary. I had altogether five of such
+wells.
+
+A little more "brag," if it may be called so, and I shall have done. But
+it will need some telling, and perhaps credulity on the reader's part. A
+certain wild plant called "loco" grows profusely in many parts of the
+Western States; but nowhere more profusely than it did in my pasture.
+Indeed it looked like this particular spot must have been its place of
+origin and its stronghold in time of adversity. Certainly, although it
+was common all over the plains, I never saw in any place such a dense
+and vigorous growth of it, covering like an alfalfa field solid blocks
+of hundreds of acres. This is no exaggeration. It had killed a few of
+our cattle in Arizona and ruined some of our best horses. The Scotch
+Company lost many hundreds of cattle by it, and also some horses. The
+plant seems to flourish in cycles of about seven years; that is, though
+some of it may be present every year it only comes in abundance,
+overwhelming abundance, once in the period stated. The peculiarity about
+it, too, is that it grows in the winter months and has flowered and
+seeded and died down by midsummer. Thus it is the only green and
+succulent-looking plant to be seen in winter-time on the brown plains.
+It is very conspicuous and in appearance much resembles clover or
+alfalfa. Cattle as a rule will avoid it, but for some unknown reason the
+time comes when you hear the expression the "cattle are eating loco." If
+so they will continue to eat it, to eat nothing else, till it is all
+gone; and those eating it will set the example to others, and all that
+have eaten it will go stark staring mad and the majority of them die.
+Horses are even more liable to take to it, and are affected exactly in
+the same way; they go quite crazy, refuse to drink water, cannot be led,
+and have a dazed, stupid appearance and a tottering gait, till finally
+they decline and die for want of nourishment. I have seen locoed horses
+taken up and fed on grain, when some of them recovered and quite got
+over the habit even of eating the weed; but these were exceptions. Most
+locoed horses remained too stupid to do anything with and were never of
+much value. There is one strange fact, however, about them; saddle
+horses, slightly locoed, just so bad that they cannot be led, and
+therefore useless as saddlers, do, when hitched up to a wagon or buggy,
+though never driven before, make splendid work horses. They go like
+automatons; will trot if allowed till they fall down, and never balk.
+The worst outlaw horse we ever had, one that had thrown all the great
+riders of the country and had never been mastered, this absolute
+devilish beast got a pretty bad dose of the weed; and, to experiment, we
+hitched him up in a wagon, when lo! he went off like any old steady team
+horse. This is all very interesting; but that is enough as to its effect
+on live stock.
+
+At the request of the Department of Agriculture I sent to Washington
+some specimens of a grub which, when the plant reaches its greatest
+exuberance and abundance, infests it, eating out its heart and so
+killing it. It destroys the plant, but alas! generally too late to
+prevent the seed maturing and falling to earth. The plant itself has
+been several times carefully examined, its juices tested and
+experimentally administered to various animals. But no absolutely
+satisfactory explanation of its effects has been given out; and
+certainly no antidote or cure of its effects suggested.
+
+Well, in a certain year the seven years' cycle came round; faithfully
+the loco plant cropped up all over the plains, the seed that had lain
+dormant for many years germinated and developed everywhere. As winter
+approached (in October) my fall round-up was due. Calves had to be
+branded, some old cows sold, and some steers delivered. I had sold
+nothing that year. On rounding-up the horses many of them showed signs
+of the weed. The neighbours flocked in and the work began. Only one
+round-up was made, when the idea seized me that if these cattle were
+"worked" in the usual way--that is, jammed round, chased about and
+"milled" for several hours--they would get tired and hungry, and on
+being turned loose would be inclined to eat whatever was nearest to
+them--probably the loco plant. It seemed so reasonable a fear, and I was
+so anxious about the cattle, that I ordered the foreman there and then
+to turn the herd quietly loose, explained to the neighbours my reasons
+for doing so, but allowed them to cut out what few cattle they had in
+the herd: and the year's work was thus at once abandoned. All that
+winter was a very anxious time. Reports came in from neighbouring
+ranches that their cattle were dying in hundreds. On driving through
+their pastures the loco appeared eaten to the ground; all the cattle
+were after it, and poor, staggering, crazy animals were met on the road
+without sense enough to get out of your way. By the end of next spring
+some of my neighbours had few cattle left to round-up. One neighbour,
+the largest cattle-ranch in the world, owning some 200,000 head, was
+estimated to have lost at least 20,000. And meantime how were affairs
+going in my little place? It will seem incredible, but what is here
+written is absolute truth. The loco was belly high; the self-weaned
+calves could be seen wading through it; but ne'er a nibbled or eaten
+plant could be found. I often searched carefully for such dreaded signs
+but happily always failed: and I did not lose a single cow, calf or
+steer, nor were any found showing the slightest signs of being affected.
+
+Many reasons were advanced for the miraculous escape of these cattle;
+people from a hundred miles away came to see and learn the reason. No
+satisfactory explanation was suggested, and finally they were compelled
+to accept my own one, and agree that leaving the cattle undisturbed by
+abandoning the fall round-up was the real solution of the problem. The
+only work my men did that winter was to keep the fences up and in good
+shape, and whenever they saw stray cattle in my pasture to turn them out
+at once, fearing the danger of bad example. Next winter, the loco being
+still very bad, the same tactics were adopted and only one solitary
+yearling of mine was affected. So ended the worst loco visitation
+probably ever experienced in the West; not perhaps that the plant was
+more abundant than at some other periods, though I think it was, but for
+some unknown reason the cattle ate it more freely.
+
+The temperature on these plains sometimes went so low as 20 deg. below zero,
+with wind blowing. There was no natural shelter, literally nothing as
+big as your hat in the pasture, and several men advised the building of
+sheds, wind-breaks, etc. But experience told me just the opposite. I had
+seen cattle (well fed and carefully tended) freeze to death inside sheds
+and barns. Also I had seen whole bunches of cattle standing shivering
+behind open sheds and wind-breaks till they practically froze to death
+or became so emaciated as to eventually die of poverty. If you give
+cattle shelter they will be always hanging around it. So I built no
+sheds or anything else. When a blizzard came my cattle had to travel,
+and the continued travelling backwards and forwards kept the blood in
+circulation. There were a few cases of horns, feet, ears and mammae
+frozen off, but I never had a cow frozen to death and never lost any
+directly from the severity of the weather. More than that, I never fed a
+pound of hay.
+
+Our name for calves that had lost their mothers, and therefore the
+nourishment obtained from milk, was "dogies." These dogies were ever
+afterwards unmistakable in appearance, and remained stunted, "runty"
+little animals of no value. Yet, if taken up early enough and fed on
+nourishing diet, they would develop into as large and well-grown cattle
+as their more fortunate fellows.[2]
+
+[Footnote 2: Appendix, Note III.]
+
+My foreman was an ordinary cowboy, but he was a thorough cattleman, had
+already been in my employ for seven years, and his "little
+peculiarities" were pretty well known to me. He became desperately
+jealous of his position (as foreman), resenting interference. It is a
+good characteristic, this desire for independence, if also accompanied
+by no fear of responsibility; and on these lines my ranch was run. I
+allowed him great independence, never interfered so long as he carried
+out general orders and "ran straight"; but I also put on him full
+responsibility. More than that, I allowed him to run his own small bunch
+of cattle, some hundred head, in my pasture, and gave him the use of my
+bulls; his grass, salt and water cost him nothing. This was a very
+unusual policy to adopt. But the idea was that it would thus be as much
+his interest as mine to see the fences kept up and in good repair, to
+see that the windmills and wells were kept in order, that the cattle
+had salt, were not stolen, etc., and prairie fires guarded against.
+Well, it all turned out right. My presence at the ranch during a year
+would not perhaps amount to a month of days; I could live in Denver, San
+Francisco or Mexico, and only come to the place at round-ups and
+branding-times. I do not think that a calf was ever stolen from me. The
+fact was I knew cattle in general and my own cattle in particular so
+well (and he knew it) that he had no opportunity, and perhaps was afraid
+to take advantage of me.
+
+It must be here mentioned that on selling out, and in tallying my cattle
+over to the buyer, the count was disappointingly short; not nearly so
+short as the Scotch Company's cattle, it is true, but still, considering
+that my cattle were inside a good fence, were well looked after, the
+huge calf crop and apparently small death loss, there was a shortage.
+Then there is no wonder at the greater shortage of the Company's cattle,
+where almost no care could be taken of them, where the calf tallies were
+in the hands of, and returned by, the foremen of other outfits, where
+the range was overstocked, the boggy rivers a death-trap, where wolves
+and thieves had free range, and where blackleg, mismothering of calves
+and loco made a big hole in the number of yearlings. In my pasture were
+also wolves and blackleg; and the loss in calves by these, difficult to
+detect, is invariably greater than suspected.
+
+Only one case of cattle-thieving occurred at my own ranch and I lost
+nothing by it. Two men stopped in for supper one day; they were
+strangers, but of course received every attention. They rode on
+afterwards, coolly picked up some thirty head of my cattle, drove them
+all night into Texas and sold them to a farmer there. Of course they
+were not missed out of so many cattle; but someone in Texas had seen
+them at their new home, noticed my brand and sent word to me. On going
+after them I found they had been sold to an innocent man who had paid
+cash for them and taken no bill of sale. It was not a pleasant duty to
+demand the cattle back from such a man, but he ought to have known
+better.
+
+Some rustlers in Arizona once detached from a train at a small station a
+couple of carloads of beef cattle, ran them back down the track to the
+corral, there unloaded the cattle and drove them off. This very smart
+trick of course was done during the night and while the crew were at
+supper.
+
+For all these reasons it will be seen why my small ranch was such a
+success and such a profitable and money-making institution. But alas! it
+was to be short-lived! As explained before, I was paying no rent and my
+fences were illegal. "Kind" friends, and I had lots of them, reported
+the fences to Washington; a special agent was sent out to inspect,
+ordered the fence down and went away again. I disregarded the order. To
+take the fence down meant my getting out of the business or the ruin of
+the herd. Next year another agent came out, said my fence was an
+enclosure and must come down. Seeing still some daylight I took down
+some few miles of it, so that it could not be defined as an enclosure,
+but only a drift-fence. During the winter, however, I could not resist
+closing the gap again. Next season once more appeared a Government
+agent, who in a rage ordered the fence down under pains and penalties
+which could not well be longer disregarded. Cattle were up in price; a
+neighbour had long been anxious to buy me out; he was somewhat of a
+"smart Alick" and thought _he_ could keep the fence up; he knew all the
+circumstances; so I went over and saw him, made a proposition, and in a
+few minutes the ranch, cattle, fences and mills were his. Poor man! in
+six months his fence was down and the cattle scattered all over the
+country. He eventually lost heavily by the deal; but being a man of
+substance I got my money all right. So closed my cattle-ranching
+experiences some eight years ago (1902).
+
+It may be noted that experience showed that polled black bulls were no
+good for ranch purposes. They get few calves, are lazy, and have not
+the "rustling" spirit. Durhams or Shorthorns also compared poorly in
+these respects with Herefords, and besides are not nearly so hardy. The
+white face is therefore king of the range. And bulls with red rings
+round the eyes by preference, as they can stand the bright glare of
+these hot, dry countries better. It used to be my keen delight to attend
+the annual cattle shows and auction sales of pure-bred bulls, and I
+would feel their hides and criticize their points till I almost began to
+imagine myself as competent as the ring judges.
+
+The ranch was in the heart of the great buffalo range. (Indeed the
+Comanche Indians, and even some white men, used to believe firmly that
+the buffaloes each spring came up out of the ground like ants somewhere
+on these Staked Plains, and from thence made their annual pilgrimage
+north.) It seems these animals were not loco eaters.
+
+On my first coming to New Mexico there were still some buffaloes on the
+plain, the last remnant of the uncountable, inconceivable numbers that
+not long before had swarmed over the country. Even when the first
+railroads were built trains were sometimes held up for hours to let the
+herds pass. As late as 1871 Colonel Dodge relates that he rode for
+twenty-five miles directly through an immense herd, the whole country
+around him and in view being like a solid mass of buffaloes, all moving
+north. In fact, during these years the migrating herd was declared to
+have a front of thirty to forty miles wide, while the length or depth
+was unknown. An old buffalo hunter loves nothing better than to talk of
+the wonderful old times. One of the oldest living ranchmen still has a
+private herd near Amarillo and has made many experiments in breeding the
+bulls to domestic Galloway cows. The progeny, which he calls cattalo,
+make excellent beef, and he gets a very big price for the hides as
+robes.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+ODDS AND ENDS
+
+     The "Staked Plains"--High Winds--Lobo Wolves--Branding--Cows--Black
+     Jack--Lightning and Hail--Classing Cattle--Conventions--"Cutting"
+     versus Polo--Bull-Fight--Prize-Fights--River and Sea
+     Fishing--Sharks.
+
+
+More odds and ends! and more apologies for the disconnected character of
+this chapter. It must be remembered that these notes are only jotted
+down as they have occurred to me. Of their irrelativeness one to another
+I am quite conscious, but the art of bringing them together in more
+proper order is beyond my capacity. Possibly it might not be advisable
+anyway.
+
+In my pasture of some 100,000 acres there was not a tree, a bush, or a
+shrub, or object of any nature bigger than a jack-rabbit; yet no sight
+was so gladsome to the eyes, no scenery (save the mark!) so beautiful as
+the range when clothed in green, the grass heading out, the lakes filled
+with water and the cattle fat, sleek and contented. Yet in after years,
+when passing through this same country by the newly-built railway in
+winter-time, it came as a wonder to me how one could have possibly
+passed so many years of his life in such a dreary, desolate,
+uninteresting-looking region. To-day the whole district, even my own old
+and familiar ranch, is desecrated (in the cattleman's eyes) by little
+nesters' (settlers) cottages, and fences so thick and close together as
+to resemble a Boer entanglement. I had done a bit of farming and some
+years raised good crops of Milo maize, Kafir corn, sorghum, rye, and
+even Indian corn. But severe droughts come on, when, as a nester once
+told me, for two years nothing was raised, not even umbrellas!
+
+These plains are, it may be safely said, the windiest place on earth,
+especially in early spring, when the measured velocity sometimes shows
+eighty miles per hour. When the big circular tumble weeds are bounding
+over the plains then is the time to look out for prairie fires; and woe
+betide the man caught in a blizzard in these lonely regions.
+
+Once when driving from a certain ranch to another, a distance of fifty
+miles, my directions were to "follow the main road." Fifty miles was no
+great distance and my team was a good one. I knew there were no houses
+between the two points. After driving what long experience told me was
+more than fifty miles, and still no ranch, I became a bit anxious; but
+there was nothing for it but to keep going. Black clouds in the north
+warned me of danger. I pushed the team along till they were wet with
+sweat; some snow fell; it grew dark as night; and a regular blizzard set
+in and I was in despair. I had a good bed in the buggy, so would myself
+probably have got through the night all right, but my horses were bound
+to freeze to death if staked out or tied up. As a last resource I threw
+the reins down and left it to the team to go wherever they pleased. For
+some time they kept on the road, but soon the jolting told me that they
+had left it and we began to go down a hill; in a little while great was
+my joy to see a light and to find ourselves soon in the hospitable
+shelter of a Mexican sheep-herder's hut. The Mexican unhitched the team
+and put them in a warm shed. For myself, he soon had hot coffee and
+tortillas on the table. I never felt so thankful in my life for such
+accommodation and such humble fare. The horses had never been in that
+part of the country before, that I knew; it was pitch dark, and yet they
+must have known in some mysterious way that in that direction was
+shelter and safety, as when I threw the lines down they even then
+continued to face the storm.
+
+It may be noted here that buffaloes always face the storm and travel
+against it; cattle and horses never.
+
+Before entirely leaving the cattle business a few more notes may be of
+interest.
+
+Plagues of grasshoppers and locusts sometimes did awful damage to the
+range.
+
+When visiting at a neighbour's one must not dismount till invited to do
+so; also in saluting anyone the gloves must be removed before shaking
+hands. This is cowboy etiquette and must be duly regarded.
+
+At public or semi-private dances there is always a master of ceremonies,
+who is also prompter and calls out all the movements. He will announce a
+"quardreele," or maybe a "shorteesche," and keeps the company going with
+his "Get your partners!" "Balance all!" "Swing your partners!" "Hands
+across!" "How do you do?" and "How are you?" "Swing somewhere," and
+"Don't forget the bronco-buster," etc. etc., as someone has described
+it. The Mexicans are always most graceful dancers; cowboys, with their
+enormously high heels, and probably spurs, are a bit clumsy. At purely
+Mexican dances (Bailies) the two sexes do not speak, each retiring at
+the end of a dance to its own side of the room.
+
+Most cowboys have the peculiar faculty of "humming," produced by shaping
+the mouth and tongue in a certain way. The "hum" can be made to exactly
+represent the bagpipes; no one else did I ever hear do it but
+cowpunchers. I have tried for hours but never quite succeeded in the
+art.
+
+Besides coyotes, which are everywhere common, the plains were infested
+by lobo wolves, a very large and powerful species; they denned in the
+breaks of the plains and it was then easiest to destroy them. They did
+such enormous damage amongst cattle that a reward of as high as thirty
+dollars per scalp was frequently offered for them, something less for
+the pups. The finding of a nest with a litter of perhaps six to eight
+young ones meant considerable money to the scalp-hunter. The wolves were
+plentiful and hunted in packs; and I have seen the interesting sight of
+a small bunch of mixed cattle rounded up and surrounded by a dozen of
+them, sitting coolly on their haunches till some unwary yearling left
+the protecting horns of its elders. Every time, when riding the range,
+that we spotted a lobo ropes were down at once and a more or less long
+chase ensued, the result depending much whether Mr Wolf had dined lately
+or not. But they were more addicted to horse and donkey flesh if
+obtainable. For purposes of poisoning them I used to buy donkeys at a
+dollar apiece and cut them up for bait. With hounds they gave good sport
+in a suitable country. But it is expensive work, as many dogs get
+killed, and no dog of any breed, unless maybe the greyhound, can or
+will singly and twice tackle a lobo wolf.
+
+In the springtime, when the calves are dropping pretty thick, it is
+exceedingly interesting to note the protective habits of the mother
+cows. For instance, when riding you will frequently come on a two or
+three days' old baby snugly hidden in a bunch of long grass while the
+mother has gone to water. When calves get a little older you may find at
+mid-day, out on the prairie, some mile or two from water, a bunch of
+maybe forty calves. Their mammies have gone to drink; but not all of
+them! No, never all of them at the same time. One cow is always left to
+guard the helpless calves, and carries out her trust faithfully until
+relieved. This was and is still a complete mystery to me. Does this
+individual cow select and appoint herself to the office; or is she
+balloted for, or how otherwise is the selection made?
+
+This might be another picture subject--the gallant cow on the defensive,
+even threatening and aggressive, and the many small helpless calves
+gathering hastily around her for protection. Her! The self-appointed
+mother of the brood.
+
+When branding calves, suppose you have 400 cows and calves in the
+corral. First all calves are separated into a smaller pen. Then the
+branding begins. But what an uproar of bellows and "baas" takes place!
+My calves were all so very like one another in colour and markings that
+one was hardly distinguishable from another. The mothers can only
+recognize their hopeful offspring by their scent and by their "baa,"
+although amongst 400 it must be rather a nice art to do so--400
+different and distinct scents and 400 differently-pitched baas.
+
+Among these notes I should not forget to mention a brush plant that
+grows on the southern plains. It is well named the "wait-a-bit" thorn.
+Its hooks or claws are sharper than a cat's, very strong and recurve on
+the stems: so that a man afoot cannot possibly advance through it, and
+even on a horse it will tear the trousers off you in a very few minutes.
+Is the name not appropriate?
+
+Nothing so far has been said on the subject of "hold-ups." Railway train
+hold-ups were a frequent occurrence, and were only undertaken by the
+most desperate of men. One celebrated gang, headed by the famous outlaw,
+Black Jack, operated mostly on a railway to the north of us and another
+railway to the south, the distance between being about 400 miles. Their
+line of travel between these two points was through Fort Sumner; and in
+our immediate neighbourhood they sometimes rested for a week or two,
+hiding out as it were, resting horses and laying plans. No doubt they
+cost us some calves for beef, though they were not the worst offenders.
+What annoyed me most was that Black Jack himself, when evading pursuit,
+raided my horse pasture one night, caught up the very best horse I ever
+owned, rode him fifty miles, and cut his throat.
+
+In New Mexico, where at first it seemed everybody's hand was against me,
+I was gratified to find that I had got a reputation as a fist-fighter,
+and as I never practised boxing in my life, never had the gloves on,
+never had a very serious fist fight with anyone, the idea of having such
+a reputation was too funny; but why should one voluntarily repudiate it?
+It was useful. The men had also somehow heard that I could hold a
+six-shooter pretty straight. Such a reputation was even more useful. I
+was not surprised therefore that a plan should be hatched to test my
+powers in that line. It came at the round-up dinner-hour on the
+Company's range (New Mexico). A small piece of board was nailed to a
+fence post and the boys began shooting at it. In a casual way someone
+asked me to try my hand. Knowing how much depended on it I got out my
+faithful old 45 deg. six-shooter that I had carried for fifteen years, and
+taking quick aim, as much to my own surprise as to others', actually hit
+the centre of the mark! It was an extraordinarily good shot (could not
+do it again perhaps in twenty trials) but it saved my reputation. Of
+course no pressure could have persuaded me to fire again. That reminds
+me of another such occasion.
+
+Once when camped alone on the Reservation in Arizona, a party of
+officers from Camp Apache turned up. They had a bite to eat with me and
+the subject of shooting came up. Someone stuck an empty can in a tree at
+a considerable distance from us and they began shooting at it with
+carbines. When my turn came I pulled out the old 45 deg. pistol and by lucky
+chance knocked the bottom out at the first shot. My visitors were amazed
+that a six-shooter had such power and could be used with such accuracy
+at that distance. In this case it was also a lucky shot; but constant
+practice at rabbits, prairie dogs and targets had made me fairly
+proficient. In New Mexico I had a cowboy working for me who was a
+perfect marvel, a "born" marksman such as now and then appears in the
+West. With a carbine he could keep a tin can rolling along the ground by
+hitting, never the can, but just immediately behind and under it with
+the greatest accuracy. If one tossed nickel pieces (size of a shilling)
+in succession in front of him he would hit almost without fail every one
+of them with his carbine--a bullet not shot! He left me to give
+exhibition shooting at the Chicago Exposition.
+
+On my ranch, at Running Water Draw, was unearthed during damming
+operations, a vast quantity of bones of prehistoric age; which calls for
+the remark that not only the horse but also the camel was at one time
+indigenous to North America.
+
+Nothing has been said yet about hail or lightning storms. Some of the
+latter were indescribably grand, when at night the whole firmament would
+be absolutely ablaze with flashes, sheets and waves so continuous as to
+be without interval. Once when lying on my bed on the open prairie such
+a storm came on. It opened with loud thunder and some brilliant flashes,
+then the rain came down and deluged us, the water running two inches
+deep over the grass; and when the rain ceased the wonderful electric
+storm as described continued for an hour longer. The danger was over;
+but the sight was awe-inspiring in the extreme. Night-herding too during
+such a storm was a strange experience. No difficulty to see the cattle;
+the whole herd stood with tails to the wind; the men lined out in front,
+each well covered by his oilskin slicker, and his horse's tail likewise
+turned to the storm; the whole outfit in review order so to speak, the
+sole object of the riders being to prevent the cattle from "drifting."
+This book contains no fiction or exaggeration; yet it will be hardly
+believed when I state that hail actually riddled the corrugated iron
+roof of my ranch house--new iron, not old or rusty stuff. The roof was
+afterwards absolutely useless as a protection against rain.
+
+Mirages in the hot dry weather were a daily occurrence. We did not see
+imaginary castles and cities turned upside down and all that sort of
+thing, but apparent lakes of water were often seen, so deceptive as to
+puzzle even the oldest plainsman. Cattle appeared as big as houses and
+mounted men as tall as church steeples.
+
+In all the vicious little cow-towns scattered about the country, whose
+attractions were gambling and "tarantula juice," there was always to be
+found a Jew trader running the chief and probably only store in the
+place. I have known such a man arrive in the country with a pack on his
+back who in comparatively few years would own half the county.
+
+What a remarkable people the Jews are! We find them all over the world
+(barring Scotland) successful in almost everything they undertake, a
+prolific race, and good citizens, yet carrying with them in very many
+cases the characteristics of selfishness, greed and ostentation.
+
+Something should be said about "classing" cattle. "Classing" means
+separating or counting the steers or she cattle of a herd into their
+ages as yearlings, "twos," "threes," etc. It used to be done in old
+days by simply stringing the herd out on the open plain and calling out
+and counting each animal as it passed a certain point. But later it
+became the custom to corral the herd and run them through a chute, where
+each individual could be carefully inspected and its age agreed on by
+both parties. Even that might not prove quite satisfactory, as will be
+shown in the following instance. I had sold to a certain gentleman (a
+Scotchman again), manager for two large cattle companies, a string of
+some 1000 steers, one, two and three years old. I drove them to his
+ranch, some 300 miles, and we began classing them on the prairie,
+cutting each class separately. It is difficult in many cases to judge a
+range steer's age. Generally it is or should be a case of give-and-take.
+But my gentleman was not satisfied and expressed his dissatisfaction in
+not very polite language. So to satisfy him I agreed to put them through
+the chute and "tooth" them, the teeth being an infallible test (or at
+least the accepted test) of an animal's age. To my surprise this man,
+the confident, trusted manager of long years' experience, could not tell
+a yearling from a "two" or a "two" from a "three," but sat on the fence
+and cussed, and allowed his foreman to do the classing for him.
+
+The Texas Cattlemen's Annual Convention was a most important event in
+our lives. It was held sometimes in El Paso, sometimes in San Antonio,
+but oftenest in Fort Worth, and was attended by ranchmen from all over
+the State, as well as by many from New Mexico, and by buyers from
+Wyoming, Montana, Nebraska, Kansas and elsewhere. Being held early in
+spring the sales then made generally set the prices for the year. Much
+dickering was gone through and many deals made, some of enormous extent.
+Individual sales of 2000, 5000 or even 10,000 steers were effected, and
+individual purchases of numbers up to 20,000 head; even whole herds of
+30,000 to 50,000 cattle were sometimes disposed of. It was a meeting
+where old friends and comrades, cattle kings and cowboys, their wives,
+children and sweethearts, met and had a glorious old time. It brought an
+immense amount of money into the place, and hence the strenuous efforts
+made by different towns (the saloons) "to get the Convention."
+
+Among the celebrities to be met there might be Buffalo Jones, a typical
+plainsman of the type of Buffalo Bill (Cody). Jones some years ago went
+far north to secure some young musk oxen. None had ever before been
+captured. He and his men endured great hardships and privations, but
+finally, by roping, secured about a dozen yearlings. The Indians swore
+that he should not take them out of their territory. On returning he
+had got as far as the very edge of the Indian country and was a very
+proud and well-pleased man. But that last fatal morning he woke up to
+find all the animals with their throats cut. Only last year Jones, with
+two New Mexican cowboys and a skilled photographer, formed the daring
+and apparently mad plan of going to Africa and roping and so capturing
+any wild animal they might come across, barring, of course, the
+elephant. His object was to secure for show purposes cinematograph
+pictures. He took some New Mexican cow-ponies out with him, and he and
+his men succeeded in all they undertook to do, capturing not only the
+less dangerous animals, such as antelope, buck and giraffe, but also a
+lioness and a rhinoceros, surely a very notable feat.
+
+Amarillo in the Panhandle was then purely a cattleman's town. It was a
+great shipping point--at one time the greatest in the world--and was
+becoming a railroad centre. I was there a good deal, and for amusement
+during the slack season went to work to fix up a polo ground. No one in
+the town had ever even seen the game played, so the work and expense all
+fell on myself. I was lucky to find a capital piece of ground close to
+the town, absolutely level and well grassed. After measuring and laying
+off, with a plough I ran furrows for boundary lines, stuck in the
+goalposts, filled up the dog-holes, etc., and there we were. At first
+only three or four men came forward, out of mere curiosity perhaps.
+After expounding the game and the rules, etc., as well as possible we
+started in to play. The game soon "caught on," and in a little while a
+number more joined, nearly all cattlemen and cowpunchers. They became
+keen and enthusiastic, too keen sometimes, for in their excitement they
+disregarded the rules. The horses, being cow-ponies, were of course as
+keen and as green as the players, and the game became a most dangerous
+one to take part in. Still we kept on, no one was very badly hurt, and
+we had lots of glorious gallops--fast games in fact.
+
+The word "polo" is derived from Tibetan pulu, meaning a knot of willow
+wood. In Cachar, and also at Amarillo, we used bamboo-root balls. The
+game originated in Persia, passed to Tibet, and thence to the
+Munipoories, and from the Munipoories the English learnt it. The first
+polo club ever organized was the Cachar Kangjai Club, founded in 1863.
+It may be remarked here that, hard as the riding is in polo, in my
+opinion it does not demand nearly such good riding as does the "cutting"
+of young steers. In polo your own eye is on the ball, and when another
+player or yourself hits it you know where to look for it, and rule your
+horse accordingly. In "cutting," on the other hand, your horse, if a
+good one, does nearly all the work; just show it the animal you want to
+take out and he will keep his eye on it and get it out of the herd
+without much guidance. But there is this great difference: you never can
+tell what a steer is going to do! You may be racing or "jumping" him out
+of the herd when he will suddenly flash round before you have time to
+think and break back again. Herein your horse is quicker than yourself,
+knowing apparently instinctively the intention of the rollicky
+youngster, so that both steer and your mount have wheeled before you are
+prepared for it. You must therefore try to be always prepared, sit very
+tight, and profit by past experiences. It is very hard work and, as said
+before, needs better horsemanship than polo. To watch, or better still
+to ride, a first-class cutting horse is a treat indeed.
+
+During these last few years of ranch life my leisure gave me time to
+make odd excursions here and there. Good shooting was to be had near
+Amarillo--any amount of bobwhite quail, quantities of prairie-chickens,
+plovers, etc. And, by-the-bye, at Fort Sumner I had all to myself the
+finest kind of sport. There was a broad avenue of large cotton-wood
+trees some miles in length. In the evening the doves, excellent eating,
+and, perhaps for that reason, tremendously fast fliers, would flash by
+in twos or threes up or down this avenue, going at railroad speed. But
+my pleasure was marred by having no companion to share the sport.
+
+Then I made many trips to the Rocky Mountains to fish for rainbow trout
+in such noble streams as the Rio Grande del Norte, the Gunnison, the
+Platte and others. In the early days these rivers were almost virgin
+streams, hotching with trout of all sizes up to twelve and even fifteen
+pounds. The monsters could seldom be tempted except with spoon or live
+bait, but trout up to six or seven pounds were common prizes. Out of a
+small, a ridiculously small, tributary of the Gunnison River I one day
+took more fish than I could carry home, each two to three pounds in
+weight. But that was murdering--mere massacre and not sport.
+
+During a cattle convention held at El Paso I first attended a bull-fight
+in Juarez and I have since seen others in the city of Mexico and
+elsewhere. The killing of the poor blindfolded horses is a loathsome,
+disgusting sight, and so affected me that I almost prayed that the
+gallant, handsome matadors would be killed. Indeed, at Mexico City, I
+afterwards saw Bombita, a celebrated Spanish matador, tossed and gored
+to death. The true ring-bull of fighting breed is a splendid animal;
+when enraged he does not seem to suffer much from the insertion of
+banderillas, etc., and his death stab is generally instantaneously
+fatal. Certainly the enthusiasm of the ring, the presence of Mexican
+belles and their cavalleros, the picturesqueness and novelty of the
+whole show are worth experiencing.
+
+It should be remembered that the red cloth waved in front of him is the
+main cause of Toro's irritation. Why it should so irritate him we don't
+know. When a picador and his horse are down they are absolutely at the
+mercy of the bull; and the onlooker naturally thinks that he will
+proceed to gore man and horse till they are absolutely destroyed. But
+the cloth being at once flaunted near him he immediately attacks it
+instead and is thus decoyed to another part of the ring. Thus, too, the
+apparent danger to the swordsman who delivers the _coup de grace_ is not
+really very great if he show the necessary agility and watchfulness.
+When a bull charges he charges not his real enemy, but that exasperating
+red cloth; and the man has only to step a little to the side, but _still
+hold the cloth in front_ of the bull, to escape all danger. Without this
+protecting cloth no matador would dare to enter the ring. The
+banderilleros, too, thus escape danger because they do their work while
+the bull's whole attention is on the red cloth operated by another man
+in front. The man I saw gored, tossed and killed must have made some
+little miscalculation, or been careless, and stood not quite out of the
+bull's way, so that the terrible sharp horns caught him, as one may say,
+_by mistake_.
+
+The Mexicans, too, like my coolies in India, were great cock-fighters.
+It is a national sport and also a cruel one.
+
+Matadors are paid princely sums. The most efficient, the great stars,
+come from Spain. Many of them are extremely handsome men and their
+costume a handsome and picturesque one. As a mark of their profession
+they wear a small pigtail, not artificial but of their own growing hair.
+I travelled with one once but did not know it till he removed his hat.
+
+Denver and San Francisco were great centres of prize-fighting. In both
+places I saw many of the great ring men of the day, in fact never missed
+an opportunity of attending such meetings. It was mostly, however,
+"goes" between the "coming" men, such as Jim Corbett and other
+aspirants. A real champion fight between heavyweights I was never lucky
+enough to witness.
+
+Base-ball games always appealed to me, and to witness a first-class
+match only a very great distance would prevent my attendance. To
+appreciate the game one must thoroughly understand its thousand fine
+points. It absorbs the onlooker's interest as no other game can do.
+Every player must be constantly on the alert and must act on his own
+judgment. The winning or losing of the match may at any moment lie with
+him. The game only lasts some two hours; but for the onlookers every
+moment of these two hours is pregnant with interest and probably intense
+excitement. Here is no sleeping and dozing on the stands for hours at a
+time as witnessed at popular cricket matches. Time is too valuable in
+America for that, and men's brains are too restless. At a ball-game the
+sight of a man slumbering on the benches is inconceivable.
+
+Sea-fishing also attracted me very much. On the California coast, around
+Catalina and other islands, great sport is to be had among the
+yellow-tails, running up to 50 lbs. weight. They are a truly game fish
+and put up a capital fight. Jew-fish up to 400 lbs. are frequently
+caught with rod and line, but are distinctly not a game fish. Albacores
+can be taken in boat-loads; they are game enough but really too common.
+The tuna is _par excellence_ the game fish of the coast. At one time you
+might reasonably expect to get a fish (nothing under 100 lbs. counted),
+but lately, and while I was there, a capture was so rare as to make the
+game not worth the candle. A steam or motor launch is needed and that
+costs money. I hired such a boat once or twice; but the experience of
+some friends who had fished every day for two months and not got one
+single blessed tuna damped my ambition. Tunas there run up to 300 lbs.,
+big enough, and yet tiny compared with the monsters of the
+Mediterranean, the Morocco coast and the Japanese seas; there they run
+up to 2000 lbs. The tuna is called the "leaping" tuna because he plays
+and hunts his prey on the surface of the water; but he never "leaps" as
+does the tarpon. Once hooked he goes off to sea and will tow your boat
+maybe fifteen miles; that is to say, he partly tows the boat, but the
+heavy motor launch must also use its power to keep up or the line will
+at once be snapped. The tuna belongs to the mackerel family, is built
+like a white-head torpedo, and for gameness, speed and endurance is hard
+to beat. Only the pala of the South Pacific Seas, also a mackerel, may,
+according to Louis Becke, be his rival. Becke indeed claims it to be the
+gamest of all fish. But its manoeuvres are different from a tuna's and
+similar to those of the tarpon. What is finer sport, I think, and
+perhaps not quite so killing to the angler, is tarpon-fishing. Most of
+our ambitious tarpon fishers go to Florida, where each fish captured
+will probably cost you some fifty dollars. My tarpon ground was at
+Aransas Pass, on the Gulf Coast of Texas. There in September the fish
+seem to congregate preparatory to their migration south. I have seen
+them there in bunches of fifty to seventy, swimming about in shallow,
+clear water, their great dorsal fins sticking out, for all the world
+like a lot of sharks. My first experience on approaching in a small row
+boat such an accumulation of fish muscle, grit and power will never be
+forgotten. It was one of _the_ events of my chequered life. The boatman
+assured me I should get a "strike" of a certainty as soon as the bait
+was towed within sight of them. My state of excitement was so great that
+really all nerve force was gone. My muscles, instead of being tense and
+strong, seemed to be relaxed and feeble; my whole body was in a tremble.
+To see these monster fish of 150 to 200 lbs. swimming near by, and to
+know that next moment a tremendous rush and fight would begin, was to
+the novice almost a painful sensation. Not quite understanding the
+mechanism of the powerful reel and breaks, and being warned that thumbs
+or fingers had sometimes been almost torn off the hand, I grasped the
+rod very gingerly. But I need not say what my first fish or any
+particular fish did or what happened. I will only say that I got all I
+wanted--enough to wear me out physically till quite ready to be gaffed
+myself. It is tremendously hard work. To rest myself and vary the sport
+I would leave the tarpon and tackle the red-fish, an equally game and
+fighting fish, but much smaller, scaling about 15 to 20 lbs. There was a
+shoal of them visible, or at least a bunch of about 100, swimming right
+on the edge of the big breaking surf. Like the tarpon they thus keep
+close company on account of the sharks (supposition). It was dangerous
+and difficult to get the boat near enough to them; but when you did
+succeed there was invariably a rush for your bait and a game fight to
+follow. They are splendid chaps. Then I would return to the tarpon and
+have another battle royal; and so it went on. But sometimes you would
+hook a jack fish (game, and up to 25 lbs.), and sometimes get into a
+shark of very big proportions. Indeed, the sharks are a nuisance, and
+will sometimes cut your tarpon in two close to your boat, and they
+eagerly await the time when you land your fish and unhook him to turn
+him loose.
+
+Another noble fish, of which I was lucky enough to get several, was the
+king-fish, long, pike-shaped and silvery, a most beautiful creature, and
+probably the fastest fish that swims. I had not realized just how quick
+any fish could swim till I hooked one of these. He acts much as the
+tarpon does. But I have not yet told how the latter, the king of the
+herring race, does act. On being hooked he makes a powerful rush for a
+hundred yards or so; then he springs straight up high out of the water,
+as much as six to ten feet, shakes his head exactly as a terrier does
+with a rat, falls back to make another rush and another noble spring. He
+will make many springs before you dare take liberties and approach the
+landing shore. But the peculiarity of this fish is that his runs are not
+all in one direction. His second run may take quite a different line;
+and at any time he may run and spring into or over your boat. When two
+anglers have fish on at the same time, and in close neighbourhood, the
+excitement and fun are great. The tarpon's whole mouth, palate and jaws
+have not a suspicion of muscle or cartilage about them; all is solid
+bone, with only a few angles and corners where it is possible for the
+hook to take good hold. Unless the hook finds such a fold in the bones
+you are pretty sure to lose your fish--three out of four times. Probably
+by letting him gorge the bait you will get him all right, but it would
+entail killing him to get the hook out. In winter the tarpons go south,
+and perhaps the best place to fish them is at Tempico in Mexico. But let
+me strongly recommend Aransas Pass in September. There is good
+quail-shooting, rabbits, and thousands of water-fowl of every
+description; also a very fair little hotel where I happened to be almost
+the only visitor. At Catalina Islands, by the way, whose climate is
+absolutely delightful, where there are good hotels, and where the
+visitors pass the whole day in the water or on land in their
+bathing-suits, one can hire glass-bottom boats, whereby to view the
+wonderful and exquisitely beautiful flora of the sea, and watch the
+movements of the many brilliantly-coloured fish and other creatures that
+inhabit it. The extraordinary clearness of the water there is
+particularly favourable for the inspection of these fairy bowers. One
+day I determined to try for a Jew-fish, just to see how such a huge,
+ungainly monster would act. Anchoring, we threw the bait over, and in a
+short time I pulled in a rock cod of nearly 7 lbs. weight. My boatman
+coolly threw the still hooked fish overboard again, telling me it would
+be excellent bait for the big ones we were after. Well, I did not get
+the larger fish; but the sight on looking overboard into the depths was
+so astonishing as to be an ample reward for any other disappointment. On
+the surface was a dense shoal of small mullet or other fish; below them,
+six or eight feet, another shoal of an entirely different kind; below
+these another shoal of another kind, and so on as far down as the eye
+could penetrate. It was a most marvellous sight indeed, and showed what
+a teeming life these waters maintain. It seemed that a large fish had
+only to lie still with its huge mouth open, and close it every now and
+then when he felt hungry, to get a dinner or a luncheon fit for any
+fishy alderman. It must be a fine field for the naturalist, the
+ichthyologist, probably as fine as that round Bermudas' coral shores, as
+illustrated by the new aquarium at Hamilton. But I can hardly think that
+the fish of any other climate can compare for brilliancy of colouring
+and fantastic variety of shape with those captured on the Hawaiian coast
+and well displayed in the aquarium at Honolulu.
+
+I must not forget to mention that at Aransas Pass one may sometimes see
+very large whip or sting-rays. They may easily be harpooned, but the
+wonderful stories told me of their huge size (I really dare not give the
+dimensions), their power and ferocity, quite scared me off trying
+conclusions with them. There one may also capture blue-fish, white-fish,
+sheepheads and pompanos; all delicious, the pompanos being the most
+highly-prized and esteemed, and most expensive, of America's many fine
+table fishes. Order a pompano the first opportunity.
+
+Having already mentioned sharks, it may be stated here that one captured
+in a net on the California coast four years ago was authoritatively
+claimed to be the largest ever taken, yet his length was only some 36
+feet; although it is true that the _Challenger_ Expedition dredged up
+shark teeth so large that it was judged that the owner must have been
+80 to 90 feet long. The Greynurse shark of the South Seas is the most
+dreaded of all its tribe; it fears nothing but the Killer, a savage
+little whale which will attack and whip any shark living, and will not
+hesitate to tackle even a sperm whale. Shark stories are common and
+every traveller has many horrible ones to recount. Yet the greatest and
+best authorities assert that sharks are mere scavengers (as they are,
+and most useful ones) and will never attack an active man, or any man,
+unless he be in extremities--that is, dead, wounded or disabled; though,
+as among tigers, there probably are some man-eaters. A large
+still-standing reward has been offered for a fully-certified case of a
+shark voluntarily attacking a man, other than exceptions as above noted,
+and that reward has not yet been claimed. Whenever I hear a thrilling
+shark story I ask if the teller is prepared to swear to having himself
+witnessed the event; invariably the experience is passed on to someone
+else and the responsibility for the tale is laid on other shoulders. On
+a quite recent voyage a talkative passenger confidently stated having
+seen a shark 70 feet long. I ventured to measure out that distance on
+the ship's deck, and asked him and his credulous listeners to regard and
+consider it. It gained me an enemy for life.
+
+One of the most famous and historical sharks was San Jose Joe, who
+haunted the harbour of Corinto, a small coast town in Salvador. Every
+ship that entered the harbour was sure to have some bloodthirsty fiend
+on board to empty his cartridges into this unfortunate creature.
+His carcass was reckoned to be as full of lead as a careful
+housewife's pin-cushion of pins. But all this battering had no effect
+on him. Finally, and after my own visit to that chief of all
+yellow-fever-stricken dens, a British gun-boat put a shell into Joe and
+blew him into smithereens. In many shark-infested waters, such as around
+Ocean Island, the natives swim fearlessly among them. This ocean island,
+by the way, is probably the most intrinsically valuable spot of land on
+earth, consisting of a solid mass of coral and phosphate. "Pelorus
+Jack," who gave so much interest to the Cook Channel in New Zealand, was
+not a shark.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+IN AMARILLO
+
+     Purchase of Lots--Building--Boosting a Town.
+
+
+Enough of odds and ends. To return to purely personal affairs. After
+selling the cattle and ranch the question at once came up--What now? I
+had enough to live on, but not enough to allow me to live quite as I
+wished, though never ambitious of great wealth. What had been looked
+forward to for many years was to have means enough to permit me to
+travel over the world; and at the same time to have my small capital
+invested in such a way as would secure not only as big a per cent.
+interest as possible, with due security, but also a large probability of
+unearned increment, so to speak; and above all to require little
+personal attention. Dozens of schemes presented themselves, many with
+most rosy outlooks. I was several times on the very verge of decision,
+and how easily and differently one's whole future may be affected!
+Perhaps by now a millionaire!--perhaps a pauper! At one time I was on
+the point of buying a cotton plantation in the South. The only obstacle
+was the shortage of convict labour! A convict negro _must_ work; the
+free negro won't. Finally I bought some city lots in the town of
+Amarillo--the most valuable lots I could find, right at the city's
+pulse, the centre of business; in my judgment they would in all
+probability always be at the centre, and that as the city grew so would
+their value grow, and thus the unearned increment would be secured. I
+bought these lots by sheer pressure; the owner did not want to sell, but
+I made him name his own price, and closed the deal, to his astonishment.
+It was a record price and secured me some ridicule. But the funniest
+part has to come. In a little while I became dissatisfied with my deal,
+and actually approached the seller and asked him if he would cancel it.
+He too had regretted parting with the property, and to my relief
+assented. Once more I spent nearly a year ranging about the whole
+western country, looking into different propositions, and again I came
+back to Amarillo, again was impressed with the desirability of the same
+lots, and actually demanded of the still more astonished owner if he
+would sell them to me. No! no! he did not want to part with them; and I
+knew he spoke the truth. Again I forced him, and so hard that at last he
+put on what he considered a prohibitory price, a much higher one than
+before asked, but I snapped him up at once. The news soon got all over
+town, it could not be kept quiet. Once more the supposed knowing ones
+and "cute" business men eyed me askance, and no doubt thought me a
+fool, or worse. Only one man approved of my action, but I valued his
+opinion more than that of all the rest. This deal again made a stir
+amongst the Real Estate offices, and lot values went soaring; and when I
+had erected a handsome business block on the property a regular "boom"
+set in. It gave the little town a lift and the people confidence. One
+man was good enough to tell me that I had more "nerve" than anyone he
+had ever met. Did he mean rashness? Well, my nerve simply came from
+realizing what a fine outlook lay before the town. It seemed to me to be
+bound to be a great distributing centre, also a railroad centre; that
+the illimitable acreage of plains-lands was bound in time to be settled
+on, and that thus the population would rapidly increase; which
+anticipations have happily come true. My whole capital, and more, was
+now sunk and disposed of. My mind at least in that respect was at rest;
+and it certainly looked as if the long-nursed scheme was about to be
+realized. In a few years the unearned increment was at least 100 per
+cent.; rents also went up surprisingly, and also, alas! the taxes.
+Unfortunately, within a year after completion of the building, and while
+I was in Caracas, Venezuela, an incendiary, a drunken gambler who had
+been running a "game" illicitly in one of the rooms, and who had been
+therefore turned out, deliberately used kerosene oil and set fire to the
+building. Result, a three-quarters' loss! Luckily I was well insured;
+even in the rentals, to the surprise of many people who had never heard
+of rental insurance before. The insurance settlement and payment was
+effected between myself and the agent in less than half an hour, and
+just as soon as I could get at it an architect was working on plans for
+a new structure. With the three months' loss on account of my absence,
+it was more than a year before the new building was ready for occupancy.
+It was, and is, a better-arranged and handsomer one than the old block,
+and its total rental is much greater. The town has grown very much and
+seems to be permanently established. The building, and my affairs, are
+entirely in the hands of a responsible agent; and I am free to go where
+inclination calls. Nothing shall be said about the worries, the delays,
+the wage disputes, the lawsuits, etc., seemingly always in attendance on
+the erection of any building. Well, it is over now, and too sickening to
+think about! Nor shall much be said about the frequent calls on the
+property-owner to subscribe, to "put up," for any bonus the city may
+have decided to offer to secure the placing in "oor toon" of a State
+Methodist College, a State Hospital, a State Federal Building; or to
+induce a new railroad to build in; not to mention the securing for your
+own particular district of the town the site of a new court-house, a
+new post-office, etc. etc. The enmity caused by this latter contest is
+always bitter. But always anything to boost the town! This little town
+actually last year paid a large sum to the champion motor-car racer of
+America to give an exhibition in Amarillo. Even a flying-machine meeting
+was consummated, one of the first in the whole West.
+
+In this plains country, such as surrounds Amarillo, during the land
+boom, immense tracts were bought by speculators, who then proceeded to
+dispose of it to farmers and small settlers. They do this on a
+methodical and grand scale. One such man chartered special trains to
+bring out from the middle States his proposed clients or victims. To
+meet the trains he owned as many as twenty-five motor-cars, in which at
+once on arrival these people were driven all over the property to make
+their selection.
+
+The first breaking of this prairie country is done with huge steam
+ploughs, having each twelve shares, so that the breaking is done very
+rapidly, the depth cultivated being only some two inches or three
+inches. The thick close sod folds over most beautifully and exactly, and
+it was always a fascinating sight, if a sad one, to watch this
+operation--the first opening up of this soil that had lain uncultivated
+for so many aeons of time. The seed may be simply scattered on the sod
+before the breaking, and often a splendid crop is thus obtained.
+Simplicity of culture, truly!
+
+[Illustration: BREAKING THE PRAIRIE.]
+
+[Illustration: FIRST CROP--MILO MAIZE.]
+
+Before leaving the United States of America a few notes about that
+country. Though as a rule physically unpicturesque, it has some great
+wonder-places and beauty spots, such as the Yosemite Valley, the Grand
+Canon of the Colorado, the Yellowstone Park, the Falls of Niagara, and
+the big trees of California, which trees it may be now remarked are
+conifers (Sequoia gigantea and Sequoia sempervirens), which attain a
+height of 400 feet. Sempervirens is so called because young trees
+develop from the roots of a destroyed parent.
+
+If the reader has never seen these enormous trees he cannot well
+appreciate their immense altitude and dimensions. Remember that our own
+tallest and noblest trees in England do not attain more than 100 feet or
+so in height; then try to imagine those having four times that height
+and stems or trunks proportionately huge. It is like comparing our
+five-storey buildings with the forty-storey buildings of New York, eight
+times their altitude.
+
+Yet these big trees are not so big as the gums of Australia; the
+Yellowstone Geysers are, or were, inferior to the like in New Zealand;
+and Niagara is surpassed by the Zambesi Falls, still more so by the
+waterfall in Paraguay, and infinitely so by the recently-discovered
+falls in British Guiana. The Guayra Falls, on the Parana River, in
+Paraguay, though not so high in one leap as Niagara, have twice as great
+a bulk of water, which rushes through a gorge only 200 feet wide.
+
+Its cities, such as San Francisco, Chicago, St Louis, New Orleans and
+others, are not as a rule beautiful; even Washington, the capital, was a
+tremendous disappointment to my expectant gaze; though my judgment might
+possibly be affected by the following incident. While standing at the
+entrance of the extremely beautiful New Union Railway Station a cab
+drove up, out of which a woman stepped, followed by a man. He hurried
+after her, and right in front of me drew a pistol and shot her dead, and
+even again fired twice into her body as she lay on the ground. Then he
+quickly but coolly put the gun to his own head and killed himself.
+
+This city seems badly planned and some of its great federal buildings
+are monstrous. The Pennsylvania Avenue is an eyesore and a disgrace to
+the nation. Boston, I believe, is all that it should be. Denver is a
+delightful town. New York, incomparable for its fabulous wealth, its
+unequalled shops, its magnificently and boldly-conceived office
+buildings and apartment blocks, its palatial and perfectly-appointed
+hotels, its dirty and ill-paved streets, is the marvel of the age and is
+every year becoming more so. Its growth continues phenomenal. If not
+now it will soon be the pulse of the world.
+
+There is never occasion in American hotels, as there is in English, in
+my own experience, to order your table waiter to go and change his
+greasy, filthy coat or to clean his finger-nails! No, in the smallest
+country hotel in the United States the proprietor knows that his guests
+actually prefer a table servant to have clean hands, a clean coat, etc.,
+and waiters in restaurants are obliged to wear thin, light and noiseless
+boots or shoes, not clodhoppers.
+
+That phenomenon and much-criticized individual, the American child, is
+blessed with such bright intelligence that at the age of ten he or she
+is as companionable to the "grown-up" as the youth of twenty of other
+countries, and much more interesting.
+
+English people are inclined to think Americans brusque and even not very
+polite. Let me assure them that they are the politest of people, though
+happily not effusive. They are also the most sympathetic and, strange as
+it may appear, the most sentimental. Their sympathy I have tested and
+experienced. Their brusqueness may arise from the fact that they have no
+time to give to formalities. But a civil question will always be civilly
+answered, and answered intelligently. Nor are Americans toadies or
+snobs; they are independent, self-reliant and self-respecting people.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+FIRST TOUR ABROAD
+
+     Mexico--Guatemala--Salvador--Panama--Colombia--Venezuela--Jamaica
+     --Cuba--Fire in Amarillo--Rebuilding.
+
+
+Among the many long trips leisure has permitted, the first was a tour
+through Mexico, Guatemala and Salvador to Panama; thence through
+Colombia and Venezuela; Jamaica and Cuba; needless to say a most
+interesting tour.
+
+Mexico has a most delightful climate at any time of the year, except on
+the Gulf Coast, the Tierra Caliente, where the heat in summer is
+tropical and oppressive. She has many interesting and beautiful towns.
+The city itself is rapidly becoming a handsome one, indeed an imperial
+one. Accommodation for visitors, however, leaves much to be desired. The
+country's history is of course absorbingly interesting, and the many
+remains of Aztec and older origin appeal much to one's curiosity. There
+is a capital golf-course, a great bull-ring, and a pelota court. There
+is much wealth, and every evening a fine display of carriages and
+horses. The little dogs called Perros Chinos of Mexico, also "Pelon" or
+hairless, have absolutely no hair on the body. They are handsome,
+well-built little creatures, about the size of a small terrier. They are
+said to be identical with one of the Chinese edible dogs. Cortez found
+them in Mexico and Pizarro in Peru. How did they get there?
+Popocatepetl, a magnificent conical volcano, overlooks the city and
+plain. I tried to ascend it but a damaged ankle failed me. A trip to
+Oaxaca to see wonderful Mitla should not be missed. There also is the
+tree of Tuli, a cypress, said to measure 154 feet round its trunk. Also
+a trip to Orizaba city is equally interesting, if only for the view of
+the magnificent Pico de Orizaba, a gigantic and most beautiful cone
+18,000 feet high; but also for the beautiful scenery displayed in the
+descent from the high plateau of Mexico, a very sudden descent of
+several thousand feet in fifteen miles, with a railroad grade of one in
+fourteen, from a temperate climate at once into a tropical one. More
+than that, it leads you to the justly-celebrated little Hotel de France
+in Orizaba, the only good hotel in all Mexico.
+
+The imposing grandeur of a mountain peak depends of course greatly on
+its elevation above its base; for instance, Pike's peak, to the top of
+which I have been, is some 15,000 feet above sea-level, but only 8000
+above its base. The great peaks of the Andes likewise suffer, such as
+Volcan Misti at Arequipa, nearly 20,000 feet above the sea, but from its
+base only 12,000 feet. Then imagine Orizaba peak at once soaring 16,000
+feet above the city, not one of a chain or range, but proudly standing
+alone in her radiant beauty. From Orizaba I went on to Cordova, where it
+is the custom of the citizens of all ranks and ages to assemble in the
+evenings in the plaza to engage in the game of keeno or lotto. Many
+tables are laid out for the purpose. The prizes are small, but
+apparently enough to amuse the people. Of course I joined in the game,
+happened to be very successful, and as my winnings were turned over to
+some small boys, beautiful little black-eyed rascals, my seat was soon
+surrounded by a merry crowd and great was the fun. How beautiful and
+captivating are these Spanish and even Mestizo children, the boys even
+more so than their sisters. From this point I took train, over the
+worst-built and coggliest railroad track I ever travelled on, to the
+Isthmus of Tehuantepec, to see the famous Eads Route, over which he
+proposed to transport bodily, without breaking cargo, ocean-going
+sailing ships and steamers from the Gulf to the Pacific Ocean. Also to
+visit the Tehuana tribe of Indians, whose women have the reputation of
+being the finest-looking of native races in the Western world. They wear
+a most extraordinary and unique combined headdress and shawl. In the
+markets could certainly be seen wonderfully beautiful faces, quite
+beautiful enough to justify the claim mentioned. At Rincon is the
+starting-point of the projected and begun Pan-American railroad, which
+will eventually reach to Buenos Ayres. At Salina Cruz, the Pacific end
+of the isthmus, and I should think one of the windiest places on earth,
+perhaps beating even Amarillo, I met a young American millionaire, a
+charming man who had large interests in Guatemala. We sailed together
+from Salina Cruz on a small coasting steamer bound for Panama. Except
+only at Salina Cruz, where a terrific wind blows most of the year, the
+weather was calm, but the heat very great. Not even bed-sheets were
+provided, nor were they needed. Sailing by night we made some port and
+stopping-place every day. The view of the coast is most interesting. You
+are practically never out of sight of volcanoes, some of them of great
+height and many of them active. One particularly, Santa Maria, attracted
+our attention because of its erupting regularly at intervals of half an
+hour; regularly as your watch marked the stated period a great explosion
+occurred and a cloud of smoke, steam and dust was vomited out and
+floated away slowly landwards. In the clear calm air it was a
+magnificent spectacle and I never tired watching it. Another volcanic
+peak had recently been absolutely shattered, one whole side as it were
+blown off it. On arriving at San Jose, the port of Guatemala city, we
+had a great reception, my friend being the owner of the railroad--the
+only railroad in this State. A special train took us up to the capital,
+splendidly-horsed carriages were put at our disposal, and we were
+banqueted and entertained at the Opera, my friend insisting that I
+should share in all this hospitality. The American minister joined our
+party and made himself agreeable and useful. Guatemala city was once the
+Paris of America, was rich, gay and prosperous; to-day it is--different,
+but still very interesting. You are there in a bygone world, an age of
+the past. Revolutions and inter-State wars have driven capital from the
+country; progress is at a standstill; confidence in anybody does not
+exist. As in the Central American States, "Ote toi de la que m'y mette"
+is on the standard of every ambitious general, colonel or politician. It
+is the direct cause of all the revolutions. At Corinto a lady, whom we
+became intimate with, landed for the professed purpose of "revoluting."
+Yet the country is a naturally rich one, having on the highlands a
+splendid temperate climate, and everywhere great mineral and
+agricultural resources. We were fortunate to see a parade of some of the
+State troops; and such a comical picture of military imbecility and
+inefficiency could surely not be found elsewhere. The officers swaggered
+in the gayest of uniforms; the men were shoeless, dirty and slovenly. On
+approaching the city one passes near by the famous volcanoes Fuego,
+Aqua and Picaya (14,000 feet), and mysterious Lake Anatitlan.
+
+A shooting-trip had been arranged for us: a steam launch on the lake,
+Indians as carriers, mules, etc. etc., but my friend declined for want
+of time. Among the fauna of the country are common and black jaguars,
+tapirs, manatees, peccaries, boas, cougars or pumas, and alligators.
+Also the quetzal, the imperial bird of the great Indian Quiche race, and
+the Trogan resplendens. Poinciana regia and P. pulcherrima are common
+garden shrubs or trees, but the finest Poinciana I ever saw was in
+Honolulu. Vampire bats are more common in Nicaragua, but also exist in
+Guatemala. They have very sharp incisors and bite cattle and horses on
+the back or withers, men on the toes if exposed, and roosters on the
+comb. They live in caves, and not as the large fruit bats of India,
+which repose head downwards, hanging from trees in great colonies.
+Vampires live on blood, having no teeth suitable for mastication.
+
+It is a strange fact that Germans, who now have the great bulk of the
+trade throughout Central America, are very unpopular. Nor are the
+Americans popular. "Los Americanos son Bestias," "Esos Hombres son
+Demonios" express the feeling.
+
+I was told that in Guatemala there exists a tribe of Indians which does
+not permit the use of alcoholic drink and actually pays the State
+compensation instead.
+
+Among other places we called at were Esquintla, Acajutla, and La
+Libertad, from which point we got a magnificent view of the Atatlan
+volcano in full activity; also at San Juan del Sur. From Leon, in
+Nicaragua, some fourteen active volcanoes can be seen. In Salvador only
+two of the eleven great volcanoes of the State are now "_vivo_," viz.,
+San Miguel and Izalco. The latter is called the Lighthouse of Salvador,
+because it explodes regularly every twenty minutes. The lesser living
+vents are called infernillos--little hells. Altogether it looks like
+Central America, as a whole, with its revolutions and its physical and
+political instability, must be a very big hell.
+
+Salvador, though the smallest of the Central American States, is the
+most prosperous, enterprising and densely-populated. She was the first
+to become independent and the first to defy the Church of Rome.
+
+It had been my intention to sail through Lake Nicaragua and down the
+river San Juan to San Juan del Norte. But accommodation at that port and
+steamer communication with Colon was so bad and irregular that the trip
+was regretfully abandoned, and I went on to Panama with my friend. This
+gentleman possessed a personal letter from President Roosevelt
+addressed to the canal officials, ordering (not begging) them to permit
+a full inspection of the works, and to tell the "truth and the whole
+truth." Consequently we saw the works under unusual and most favourable
+conditions. The Americans have made remarkable progress, assisted by
+their wonderful labour-saving appliances, chief among which are the
+100-ton shovels, the Lidgerwood car-unloaders, and the track-shifters.
+But chiefly, of course, by their sanitary methods, the protection
+afforded the employees against mosquitoes, and the abolition of mosquito
+conditions. The natives and negroes are immune to yellow fever, but not
+to malaria. As most of us know, Major Ross of the I.M.S., in 1896,
+proved the connection of malaria with the anopheles mosquito; and in
+1902 Mr Reed of the U.S. Health Commission tracked the yellow fever to
+the stegomyia mosquito. Yellow fever requires six days to develop. It
+should be noted that the stegomyia insect is common in India, but
+luckily has not yet been infected with the germ of yellow fever. And it
+may also be here mentioned that the connection between bubonic plague
+and rats, and the fleas that infest them, was discovered by the Japanese
+scientist, Kitasato.
+
+The history of the canal may be touched on, if only to show the American
+method of securing a desired object, certainly a quick, effective and,
+after all, the only practical method. The Panama railway was built by
+Americans in 1855 to meet the rush to California gold-fields. The De
+Lesseps Company bought the road for an enormous figure, and started the
+canal works, to be abandoned later on, but again taken up by a new
+French Company. In 1901 Uncle Sam got his "fine work" in when he bluffed
+the new French Panama Company into selling it to him for 40,000,000
+dollars, simply by threatening to adopt the Nicaragua route. Yet the
+Company's property was well worth the 100,000,000 dollars asked for it.
+To carry out the bluff, the Isthmian Canal Commission (U.S.) actually
+reported to Congress that the Nicaragua route was the most "practical
+and feasible" one, when it was well known to the Commission that the
+route was so impracticable as not to be worthy of consideration. At
+least common report had it so. In 1903 Colombia refused the United
+States offer to purchase the enlarged canal zone. At once Panama
+province seceded from the State, and sold the desired zone to the United
+States for 10,000,000 dollars, conditionally on the United States
+recognizing and guaranteeing the young Republic. The deal was cleverly
+arranged, and was again perhaps the only effective method to obtain
+possession.
+
+The tide at Panama measures 20 feet, at Colon only 2 feet. In 1905 the
+International Board of Consulting Engineers, summoned by President
+Roosevelt, recommended, by eight to five, a sea-level canal (two locks).
+But Congress adopted the minority's 85-feet-level plan (6 locks), with
+an immense dam at Gatun, which dam will not be founded on rock, but have
+a central puddled core extending 40 feet below the bottom of the lake,
+and sheet piling some 40 feet still deeper. At least that is as I then
+understood it.
+
+De Lesseps was not an engineer and knew little of science. His Company's
+failure was directly due to his ignorance and disregard of the advice of
+competent men.
+
+Manual labour on the canal has been done mostly by Jamaica negroes. As
+said before, they are immune to yellow fever; and, speaking of the
+negro, it may be said here that his susceptibility to pain, compared to
+that of the white man, is as one to three, but the effect of a fair
+education is to increase it by one-third. What then is that of the
+monkey, the bird, the reptile or the fish? May I dare the statement,
+though most of us perhaps know it, that the sensitiveness of woman to
+that of man is as fifty-three to sixty-four. Even the woman's sense of
+touch, as in the finger-tips, being twice as obtuse as man's. The
+Bouquet D'Afrique, of course, is perceptible to us and offensive, but it
+is said that to the Indians of South America both black and white men
+are in this respect offensive. The "Foetor Judaiicus" must be noticeable
+also to have deserved the term.
+
+But this is sad wandering from the subject in hand and not exactly
+"reminiscences." I only hope that this and other departures, necessary
+for stuffing purposes, may be excused, especially as they are probably
+the most entertaining part of the book.
+
+To return to the town of Panama. In the bay and amongst the islands were
+quite a number of whales and flocks of pelicans. More curious to observe
+was an enormous number of small reddish-brown-coloured snakes, swimming
+freely on the surface of the sea, yet not seemingly heading in any
+particular direction. I could get no information regarding them. The
+famous Pearl Islands lie forty miles off Panama. The pearls are large
+and lustrous.
+
+On reaching harbour the health officials came on board, and to my
+surprise selected me alone among the passengers for quarantine. The
+explanation was that I had gone ashore at Corinto. So I was ordered to
+take up my abode during the period of incubation in the detention house,
+a building in an isolated position; there I was instructed, much to my
+relief, that I might go to town or anywhere else during daylight, but
+must, under severe penalty, be back and inside the protecting screens
+before the mosquitoes got to work. The object was that no mosquito after
+biting me should be able to bite anyone else. We had been some two and a
+half days out of Corinto, so my period of detention was not of long
+duration. I also got infinitely better messing than any hotel in Panama
+afforded.
+
+The seas on either side of Darien Isthmus were at one time the scene of
+the many brave but often cruel deeds of the great adventurers and
+explorers like Drake, buccaneers like Morgan, pirates like Kidd and
+Wallace. Morgan, a Welshman, sacked and destroyed old Panama, a rich and
+palatial city, in 1670. He also captured the strong fortress town, Porto
+Bello. Drake captured the rich and important Cartagena. Captain Kidd,
+native of Greenock, was commissioned by George III. to stamp out piracy,
+but turned pirate himself and became the greatest of them all.
+
+It had been my intention to sail from Panama to Guayaquil, cross the
+Andes, and take canoe and steamer down the Amazon to Para. But the
+reports of yellow fever at Guayaquil, the unfinished state of the Quito
+railroad, and the disturbed state of the Trans-Andean Indians, through
+whose country there would be a week's mule ride, decided me to alter my
+plans once more. So, bidding good-bye to my very kind New York friend,
+who went home direct, I myself took steamer for a Colombian port and
+thence trained to Baranquillo, a considerable town on the Magdalena
+River. It was a novel experience to there find oneself a real live
+millionaire! The Colombian paper dollar (no coin used) was worth just
+the hundredth part of a gold dollar; so that a penny street car ride
+cost the alarming sum of five dollars, and dinner a perfectly fabulous
+amount. By Royal Mail steamer the next move was to La Guayra, the
+seaport of Caracas, a most romantic-looking place, where the mountains,
+some 9000 feet high, descend almost precipitously to the sea. There we
+saw the castle where Kingsley's Rose of Devon was imprisoned. At that
+time President Castro was so defying France that war and a French fleet
+were expected every day. Consequently his orders were that no one
+whomsoever should be allowed to enter the country. All the passengers of
+course, and for that very reason perhaps, were hoping to be allowed to
+land, if only to make the short run up to the capital and back. At
+Colon, assisted by my American friend and the United States consul, we
+"worked" the Venezuela Consul into giving me a passport (how it was done
+does not matter), which at La Guayra I, of course, produced. Of no
+avail! No one must land. But just when the steamer was about to sail a
+boat full of officials appeared at the steamer's side, called out my
+name, and lo! to the wonder of the other passengers, I was allowed to go
+ashore. This was satisfactory, and I at once took train to the capital,
+climbing or soaring as in a flying-machine the steep graded but
+excellent road (most picturesque) to Caracas. There I found that the
+Mardi Gras Carnival was just beginning. In my hotel was the war
+correspondent of the _New York Herald_, just convalescing from an attack
+of yellow fever and still incapable of active work. He was good enough
+to ask me to fill his place should hostilities ensue. No other
+correspondent was in the country and he himself had to put up a 10,000
+dollar bond. I willingly agreed, and so stayed nearly two weeks in
+Caracas awaiting eventualities. During this time, owing to the Carnival,
+the town was "wide open"; every night some twenty thousand people danced
+in the Plaza Bolivar, a huge square beautifully paved with tiling. The
+dancers were so crowded together that waltzing simply meant revolving
+top-wise. A really splendid band provided the music. What a gay, merry
+people they are! And how beautiful these Venezuela women, and how
+handsome the men! In the streets presents of great value were tossed
+from the carriages to the signoras on the balconies. At a ball the men,
+the fashionables, wore blue velvet coats, not because of the season, but
+because it is the customary male festive attire. Caracas was delightful
+and extraordinarily interesting. What splendid saddle mules one here
+sees! Castro every day appeared with his staff all mounted on mules. All
+the traffic of the country is done with them, there being no feasible
+wagon roads. Castro had a most evil reputation. The people hated but
+feared him. His whole army consisted of Andean Indians, and he himself
+had Indian blood in his veins. The climate at Caracas is delightful.
+After two weeks and nothing developing, and not feeling quite well, I
+returned to La Guayra and took steamer back to Colon. Feeling worse on
+the steamer I called in the doctor, and was greatly alarmed when he
+pronounced yellow fever. On arriving at Colon, of course, I was not
+permitted to land so had to continue on the ship to Jamaica. The attack
+must have been a very mild one, as when we reached Jamaica I was nearly
+all right again.
+
+Jamaica is a beautiful island with a delightful winter climate. Also
+very good roads. Among other places visited was Constant Spring Hotel,
+once the plantation residence and property of one of my uncles. At Port
+Antonio, on the north side of the island, is a very fine up-to-date
+American hotel, which of course was greatly appreciated after the vile
+caravanserais of Central America. Thence on to Cuba, the steamer passing
+through the famous narrows leading to Santiago. A pleasant daylight
+railroad run through the whole island brought me to the great city of
+Havana, not, as it appeared to me, a handsome or attractive city, but
+possessing a good climate and a polite and agreeable population. The
+principal shopping street in Havana is so narrow that awnings can be,
+and are, stretched completely across it. In the centre of the harbour
+was visible the wreck of the United States battleship _Maine_. Here in
+Havana, on calling at the Consulate for letters, or rather for
+cablegrams, as I had instructed my Amarillo agent not to write but to
+cable, and only in the case of urgent consequence, I found a message
+awaiting me. No need to open it therefore to know the contents! Yes, my
+building had been burnt to the ground two months ago. A cable to Caracas
+had not been delivered to me. So, back to Amarillo to view the ruins. In
+the United States of America one cannot insure for the full value of a
+building; or at least only three-quarters can be recovered. So my loss
+amounted to 8000 or 10,000 dollars. But no need of repining, and time is
+money, especially in such a case. So a new building was at once started,
+rushed and completed, in almost record time.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+SECOND TOUR ABROAD
+
+     Bermudas--Switzerland--Italy--Monte
+     Carlo--Algiers--Morocco--Spain--Biarritz and Pau.
+
+
+In November 1907 I again left Amarillo bound for Panama and the Andes.
+But the only steamer offering from New Orleans was so small, and the
+messing arrangements so primitive, that I abandoned the idea, railed to
+New York, saw a steamer starting for the Bermudas and joined her. For
+honeymoon and other trips the Bermudas are a favourite resort of New
+Yorkers. Fourteen honeymoon couples were reckoned to be on board. The
+climate of these islands is very delightful. The hotels are quite good;
+English society pretty much confined to the Army and Navy; two
+golf-courses; the best of bathing, boating and sea-fishing. The Marine
+Aquarium is most interesting. The roads are good and not a motor-car in
+the land!
+
+The islands are composed solely of coralline limestone. It can be
+quarried almost anywhere. Blasting is not necessary, the stone being so
+soft that it can be sawn out in blocks of any size to meet the
+architect's needs. It is beautifully white and hardens after exposure.
+
+After staying two weeks I returned to New York and took passage to
+Cherbourg, crossed France to Lausanne, saw some friends and then went on
+to St Moritz, which we all know is so famous for its wonderful winter
+climate, intensely cold but clear skies and bright sunshine. Curling,
+hockey, skiing, tobogganing and bobbing were in full swing; the splendid
+hotels crowded; dinners and dances every day. A very jolly place indeed.
+After ten days' stay a sledge took me over the mountains to Chiavenna,
+thence steamer over the lake to Como, and train to Milan. It was very
+cold and foggy there, but the city is a handsome one; I saw the
+Cathedral, the arcade, etc., and visited the famous Scala Opera House
+and its wonderful ballet. Thence to Genoa--very cold--and on to Monte
+Carlo, at once entering a balmy, delicious climate. The season was just
+beginning, but the play-rooms were pretty full. With its splendid shops,
+fine hotels, gardens, Casino, pigeon-shooting, etc. etc., Monte Carlo is
+unrivalled. It is distinctly a place to wear "clothes," and the women's
+costumes in the play-rooms and Casino are enough to make the marrying
+man think twice.
+
+After visiting Monaco, Nice and Cannes, at Marseilles I took steamer to
+Algiers. Barring its agreeable winter climate there is not much
+attraction there. Here I was told that the marriageable Jewess is kept
+in a dark room, fed on rich foods and allowed no exercise; treated, in
+fact, as a goose for a fat liver.
+
+So I went on to Blida, where is a French Army Remount Depot. A large
+number of beautiful Arab horses were being inspected and shown by their
+picturesque owners. They were not the type for cow-ponies and seemed a
+bit light for cavalry purposes. From Blida I went by train to Oran, a
+considerable port in Algiers. There was nothing particular to see or do
+except visit a certain Morocco chief who had started the late troubles
+at Fez and was here in durance vile (chains). Among the few tourists I
+met a Hungarian and his English wife and we became fairly intimate. His
+wife told me he was the dread of her life, being scorching mad on
+motor-cars. It happened there was one and only one car in the town for
+hire, and the Baron must needs hire it and invite me, with his wife, to
+a trip up a certain hill or mountain overlooking the city. A holy man,
+or marabout, denned on the top and we must pay our respects. The road
+proved to be exceedingly steep, and zigzagged in a remarkable way, with
+very sharp, angular turns. No car had ever been up it, and few
+carriages. We reached the top in due time, saluted the old man and
+started back. My friend was at the wheel and did a few turns all right,
+till we came to a straight shoot, very narrow, a ditch on one side,
+trees on the other, and just here the brake refused to work. Reaching
+over I touched his shoulder and suggested that he should go slower. No
+reply; he was speechless, and we knew at once that he had lost control,
+and realized our horrible position. On we rushed, he guiding it straight
+all right, till we approached the bend, the worst on the road, and quite
+impossible to manipulate at great speed. Right in front was an unguarded
+cliff, with a drop of 500 feet over practically a precipice. But--well,
+there was no "terrible accident" to be reported. Most fortunately a pile
+of rocks had been accumulated for the purpose of building a parapet
+wall, and on to the top of this pile the car jumped and lodged, without
+even turning over. The jar and shock were bad enough, but no one was
+much hurt. It reminded me of another occasion when I got a jar of a
+different kind. Once, after playing golf with a man in America, he
+offered to drive me to town in his motor-car. Knowing him to be a
+scorcher I excused myself by saying that I was not ready to go. He
+started; very soon afterwards word came back that he had run into a
+telegraph post and killed himself and his driver. Such things tend to
+cool one's motor ambition.
+
+At Oran I boarded a small French steamer for Mellilla, in Spanish
+Morocco, a Spanish convict station and a considerable military post.
+This was just before Spain's recent Riff Campaign. The table fare on
+the steamer was not British! Cuttle-fish soup or stew was prominent on
+the bill; a huge dish of snails was always much in demand, and the other
+delicacies were not tempting, to me at least. Eggs, always eggs! How
+often in one's travels does one have to resort to them. In Mellilla
+itself there was no hotel. We messed at the strangest restaurant it was
+ever my ill-luck to enter. The troops reminded me somewhat of those of
+Guatemala, slovenly, slouching, and poorly dressed. Their officers were
+splendid in gold braid, feathers and gaudy uniforms. Around the town
+were circular block-houses, beyond which even then no one was allowed to
+go. Indeed, mounted tribesmen could be seen sometimes riding up to the
+line and flourishing their guns in apparent defiance. Curiosity made me
+venture forward till warned back by the guard. These Riffians were
+certainly picturesque-looking rascals. Mellilla was then not on the
+tourist's track, so was all the more interesting and novel.
+
+From there by steamer to Gibraltar, stopping at Ceuta on the way. At
+Gibraltar a friend, Capt. B----, took me all over the rock, the
+galleries, and certain fortifications. A meeting of hounds near
+Algeciras was attended. Thence by train to Granada to visit the
+marvellously lovely Alhambra, and of course to meet the King of the
+Gipsies; Ronda, romantic and picturesque; Cordova and its immense
+mosque and old Roman bridge; and so on to Madrid by a most comfortable
+and fast train; but the temperature all through Central Spain is
+extremely cold in winter. The country is inhospitable-looking, and the
+natives seem to have abandoned their picturesque national dress. One
+must now go to Mexico to see the cavalier in his gay and handsome
+costume. In Madrid I of course visited the splendid Armoury; also the
+National Art Gallery with its Velasquezs and Murillos. From Madrid to
+San Sebastian, the season not yet begun, and Biarritz. Here I spent a
+most enjoyable month: dry, bracing climate, good golf-course, good
+hotels, etc. It was the English season; the Spanish season being in
+summer. On King Edward's arrival with his entourage and fashionable
+followers golf became impossible, so I went on to Pau and played there.
+From Pau a short run took me to Lourdes, with its grotto, chapel, etc.
+From Pau to Bordeaux, a handsome, busy town. Then Paris and home.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+THIRD TOUR ABROAD
+
+     Salt Lake City--Canada--Vancouver--Hawaii--Fiji--Australia--New
+     Zealand--Tasmania--Summer at Home.
+
+
+The fall of 1908 saw me off on a tour which finally took me round the
+world. Space will only permit of its itinerary and a few of my
+impressions and experiences. From Amarillo I trained north to Salt Lake
+City, passing through the wonderful gorge of the Arkansas River and the
+canon of the Grand; scenery extremely wild and impressive. At Salt Lake
+found a large, busy, up-to-date city. Visited the tabernacle, and heard
+the great organ, the largest in the world; and a very fine choir. The
+acoustics of this immense and peculiarly-shaped building are most
+perfect. The Temple Gentiles are not allowed to enter. Outside the
+irrigation limits the country has a most desolate, desert, hopeless
+aspect. What nerve the Mormons had to penetrate to such a spot.[3]
+
+[Footnote 3: _See_ Appendix.]
+
+It may be noted here that one Sidney Rigdon was the compiling genius of
+Mormonism; and it was he who concocted the Mormon Bible, not Joe Smith.
+And what a concoction! No greater fraud was ever perpetrated.
+
+Hence by Butte, Montana, the great copper-mining city, to Great Falls,
+where we crossed the Missouri River, there 4000 miles from the sea, yet
+twice as large as the Thames at Windsor. On entering Canadian territory
+a remarkable change in the character of the people, the towns and the
+Press was at once noticeable. From Calgary by the C.P.R. the trip
+through the Selkirk range to Vancouver was one of continuous wonder and
+delight--noble peaks, dense pine forests, rushing rivers and peaceful
+lakes. Arrived at Vancouver city, a city of illimitable ambition and
+bright prospects. I there met in the lobby of the hotel two very old
+friends whom I had not seen for many years. They dined with me, or
+rather wined and dined, and we afterwards spent a probably uproarious
+evening. I say probably, because the end was never evident to me till I
+woke up in my bed, whither someone had carried me, with my stockinged
+foot burning in a candle; another such illuminant had been lighted and
+placed at my head. My waking (and I was "waked" in two senses)
+endangered, and at the same time prevented, the probable burning down of
+the building. Next morning I was taken suddenly ill, but not due to the
+evening's carousal, so went across the bay to Victoria and hunted up a
+doctor, who immediately ordered me into hospital (the Victoria Jubilee)
+and operated on me the very same day. The operation was the most painful
+that I have ever undergone but was entirely successful, though it
+detained me in the hospital for over a month.
+
+From Victoria I trained to San Francisco, passing through lovely
+Washington and Oregon States, and Northern California; and from San
+Francisco took steamer to Honolulu. San Francisco was rising from its
+ashes, but still presented a terrible aspect, and gave a good idea of
+how appalling the catastrophe must have been. At Honolulu I spent a most
+enjoyable two weeks, golfing a little, surf riding, etc. The climate is
+ideal, hotels are good, parts of the islands lovely. They are all
+volcanic, and indeed some are nothing but an agglomeration of defunct
+craters.
+
+On one of the islands, Maui, is the largest crater on earth (unless
+perhaps a certain one in Japan), its dimensions being 2000 feet in
+depth, eight miles wide, and situated on the top of a mountain,
+Haleakala, 10,000 feet high. Its surface, seen from the rock-rim,
+exactly resembles that of the moon. I of course also visited the largest
+island of the group--Hawaii--passing _en route_ Molokai, the leper
+settlement. Hawaii has two very high volcanic mountains, Mauna Kea and
+Mauna Loa, some 13,000 feet. The land is very prolific, the soil
+consisting of pulverized lava and volcanic dust, whose extreme
+fertility is due to a triple proportion of phosphates and nitrogen. On
+the slope of Mauna Loa is the crater of Kilauea, and in its centre the
+"pit," called Haleamaumau, the most awe-inspiring and in other ways the
+most remarkable volcano in the world. Landing at Hilo, by train and
+stage we went to see it. My visit was made at night when the
+illumination is greatest. Traversing the huge crater, four miles in
+diameter, the surface devoid of all vegetation, seamed and cracked, and
+in places steam issuing from great fissures, we suddenly arrived at the
+brink of the famous pit, and what an astonishing sight met our gaze! The
+sheer walls of the circular pit were some 200 feet deep: the diameter of
+the pit one quarter of a mile: the contents a mass of (not boiling, for
+what could the temperature be!) restless, seething, molten, red-hot
+lava, rising from the centre and spreading to the sides, where its waves
+broke against the walls like ocean billows, being a most brilliant red
+in colour! Flames and yet not flames. Now and then geysers of fire would
+burst through the surface, shoot into the air and fall back again. The
+sight was to some people too awful for prolonged contemplation, myself
+feeling relieved as from a threat when returning to the hotel, but still
+with a desire to go back and again gaze into that awful maelstrom. The
+surface of the pit is not stationary, at one time being, as then, sunk
+200 feet; another time flush with the brim and threatening destruction;
+and again almost disappearing out of sight. At any time and in whatever
+condition it is an appalling spectacle and one never to be forgotten.
+
+Sugar and pineapples are the main products of the islands; but one
+should not miss visiting the aquarium at Honolulu to see the collection
+of beautiful and even comical-looking native fishes; some of extravagant
+colouring, brilliant as humming-birds, gay as butterflies; of shapes
+unsuspected, and in some cases indescribable, having neither length nor
+breadth, depth nor thickness; hard to distinguish head from tail, upside
+from underside; speed being apparently the least desirable of
+characteristics. Do they depend for protection and safety on their
+grotesque appearance? or do their gaudy robes disarm and enchant their
+ferocious and cannibalistic brethren?
+
+One of the funniest sights I ever saw was a base-ball game played here
+between Chinese and Japanese youngsters. What a commanding position
+these islands occupy in ocean navigation, as a coaling or naval station,
+or as a distributing point. America was quick to realize this; and now
+splendid harbours and docks are being constructed, and the place
+strongly fortified so as to rival Gibraltar.
+
+In January 1909 I joined the new and delightful New Zealand Steamship
+Company's steamer _Makura_ bound for Sydney. On board was, amongst a
+very agreeable company, a gentleman bound for New Zealand on a
+fishing-trip, who told me such marvellous tales of his fishing prowess
+in Scotland that I put him down for one of the biggest liars on earth.
+More of him afterwards. Also on board was a young English peer, Earl
+S----, a very agreeable man, whose company I continued to enjoy for the
+greater part of this tour. We had a delightful passage, marred for me,
+however, by a severe attack of neuritis, which continued for three solid
+months, the best doctors in Sydney and Melbourne failing to give relief.
+Our ship first called at Fanning Island, a cable station (delivering
+four months' mail), a mere coral atoll with its central lagoon, fringe
+of cocoanut trees and reef. The heavy swell breaking on the reef, and
+the wonderful blue of the water, the peaceful lagoon, the bright, clear
+sky, and the cocoanut trees, formed a picture never to be forgotten. A
+picture typical of all the many thousands of such Pacific islets. After
+passing the Union and Wallace groups we crossed the 180 deg. meridian, and
+so lost a day, Sunday being no Sunday but Monday. Then arrived at Suva,
+Fiji Islands. The rainy season having just begun it was very hot and
+disagreeable. The Fijians are Papuans, but tall and not bad-looking.
+Maoris, Hawaiians and Samoans are Polynesians, a much handsomer race.
+The Fijians were remarkable for their quick conversion to devout
+Christianity. So late as 1870 cannibalism was general. Prisoners were
+deliberately fattened to kill. The dead were even dug up when in such a
+condition that only puddings could be made of them. Limbs were cut off
+living victims and cooked in their presence; and even more horrible acts
+were committed. The islands are volcanic, mountainous, and covered by
+forests.
+
+Our visit was about the time of the Balolo worm season. The Balolo worm
+appears on the coast punctually twice a year, once in October (the
+Little Balolo) and once about the 20th November (the Great Balolo). They
+rise to the sea surface in writhing masses, only stay twelve hours and
+are gone. The natives make a great feast of them. The worm measures 2
+ins. to 2 ft. long, is thin as vermicelli and has many legs. Never is a
+single worm seen at any other time.
+
+Leaving Fiji, we passed the Isle of Pines, called at Brisbane, and
+arrived at Sydney on the 25th November. Of the beauties and advantages
+of Sydney Harbour we have all heard, and I can only endorse the glowing
+descriptions of other writers. Hotels in Australia and New Zealand are
+very poor, barring perhaps one in Sydney and a small one in Melbourne. A
+great cricket match was "on"--Victoria versus New South Wales--so I must
+needs go to see, not so much the game itself as the very famous club
+ground, said to be the finest in the world. In the Botanical Gardens,
+near a certain tree, the familiar, and I thought the unmistakable, odour
+of a skunk was most perceptible. Hailing a gardener and drawing his
+attention to it, he replied that the smell came from the tree ("malotus"
+he called it), but the crushed leaves, the bark and the blossom
+certainly gave no sign of it and I remained mystified. Fruit of many
+kinds is cheap, abundant and good. Sydney is not a prohibition town! Far
+from it. Drink conditions are as bad as in Scotland. Many of the people,
+especially from the country, have a pure Cockney accent and drop their
+h's freely; indeed I met boys and girls born in the colony, and never
+out of it, whose Cockney pronunciation was quite comical. It struck me
+that Australians and New Zealanders are certainly not noted for
+strenuousness.
+
+Of course the tourist must see the Blue Mountains, and my trip there was
+enjoyable enough, I being greatly impressed with the Leura and other
+waterfalls (not as falls) and the wonderful and beautiful caves of
+Janolan. Wild wallabies were plentiful round about, and the "laughing
+jackass" first made himself known to me.
+
+February 2nd.--S---- and myself took passage to New Zealand, the
+fish-story man being again a fellow-traveller. During the crossing
+numerous albatrosses were seen. In New Zealand we visited all the great
+towns, Wellington, Auckland, Christchurch, Dunedin and others, all of
+them pleasant, agreeable places, Christchurch being especially
+attractive. What a grand, healthy, well-fed and physically fit-looking
+people the New Zealanders are. Scotch blood predominates, and really
+there is a great similarity between the two peoples. At Rotorua we met
+the Premier and other celebrities, S---- being very interested in
+Colonial politics. Rotorua is a very charming place; I did some fishing
+in the lake, where trout were so numerous that it was not much sport
+catching them. Illness unfortunately prevented my going further afield
+and fishing for larger trout in the rivers. A Colonel M---- and sister
+who were in New Zealand at that time claimed to have beaten the record,
+their catch averaging over 20 lbs. per fish (rainbows), as they told me
+on again meeting them in the Hebrides. We did the Wanganui River of
+course; and the geysers at Whakarewarewa, under the charge of Maggie,
+the Maori guide.
+
+As you no doubt are aware, the Maori fashion of salutation is to rub
+noses together. As long as they are pretty noses there cannot be much
+objection; but some of the Maori girls are themselves so pretty that
+mere rubbing is apt to degenerate and one's nose is liable to slip out
+of place. Maggie, the Maori guide, a very pretty woman and now at
+Shepherd's Bush, can tell all about it and even give a demonstration.
+
+Here in Whakarewarewa one is impressed with the fact that this little
+settlement is built on what is a mere shallow crust, under which, at the
+depth of only a few feet, is a vast region of boiling mud and water.
+Everywhere around are bubbling and spluttering mud-wells, some in the
+form of miniature geysers; steam is issuing everywhere from clefts and
+crannies in the ground; and one almost expects a general upheaval or
+sinking of the whole surface. The principal geyser was not and had not
+been for some weeks in action. It can be forced into action, however, by
+the singular method of dropping a bar of soap down the orifice, when a
+tremendous rush of steam and water is vomited out with terrific force.
+Sir Joseph Ward, the Premier, is the only person authorized to permit
+this operation: but though he was at our hotel, and we were personally
+intimate with him, he declined to favour us with the permission, it
+being explained that the too-frequent dosing of the geyser had seemed to
+have a relaxing effect on the activity.
+
+At Dunedin S---- left me to visit Milford Sound. Too unwell to accompany
+him, I continued on to the Bluff and then took steamer to Hobart,
+Tasmania. New Zealand has a great whale-fishery and it was my hope to
+see something of it by a short trip on one of the ships employed; but
+the opportunity did not present itself.
+
+May I here offer a few notes picked up on the subject of whales, etc.
+The sperm or cachalot whale is a dangerous and bold fighter and is
+perhaps the most interesting of all cetaceans. His skin, like that of
+the porpoise, is as thin as gold-beaters' leaf. Underneath it is a
+coating of fine hair or fur, not attached to the skin, and then the
+blubber. He has enormous teeth or tushes in the lower jaw, but has no
+baleen. He devours very large fish, even sharks, but his principal food
+seems to be cuttle-fish and squids, some of them of as great bulk as
+himself. These cuttle-fish's tentacle discs are as big as soup-plates,
+and surrounded by hooks as large and sharp as tiger claws; while their
+mouths are armed with a parrot-like beak capable of rending anything
+held to them by the tentacles. These disc hooks are often found in
+ambergris, an excretion of the sperm whale. The sperm whale spouts
+diagonally, other whales upwards. So-called porpoise leather is made of
+the skin of the white whale. The porpoise is the true dolphin, the
+sailor's dolphin being a fish with vertical tail, scales and gills.
+Bonitoes are a species of mackerel, but warm-blooded and having
+beef-like flesh.
+
+Near Hobart I saw the famous fruit and hop lands on the Derwent River.
+It was midsummer here and extremely hot, hotter than in Melbourne or
+anywhere else on this trip. From Hobart I railed to Launceston and
+thence steamer to Melbourne.
+
+Melbourne is a very handsome city as we all know. It was my hope to
+continue on with S---- north by the Barrier Reef, or rather between the
+reef and the mainland, and so on to China, Japan, Corea, and home by
+Siberia; but my doctor advised me not to attempt it, so I booked passage
+for Colombo instead, and S---- and myself necessarily parted. But it was
+with much regret that I missed this wonderful coasting trip, long looked
+forward to and now probably never to be accomplished. On my way home I
+visited beautiful Adelaide, and the younger city, Perth, which reminded
+me much of the West American mining towns. Colombo needs no call for
+notice. At Messina we saw the ruined city, the devastation seeming to
+have been very terrible; but it presented no such awful spectacle of
+absolutely overwhelming destruction as did San Francisco. Etna was
+smoking; Stromboli also. Then Marseilles, Paris, and home.
+
+During that summer at home I was fortunate enough to see the polo test
+matches between Hurlingham and Meadowbrook teams, otherwise England
+versus America. It was a disheartening spectacle. The English could
+neither drive a ball with accuracy nor distance; they "dwelt" at the
+most critical time, were slow in getting off, overran the ball, and in
+fact were beaten with ease, as they deserved to be.
+
+An even more interesting experience was a visit to the aviation meeting
+at Rheims, the first ever held in the world, and a most successful one.
+Yet the British Empire was hardly represented even by visitors. Such
+great filers as Curtis, Lefevre, Latham, Paulhan, Bleriot and Farman
+were all present.
+
+In the autumn I had a week's salmon-fishing at Garynahine in the Lews.
+The weather was not favourable and the sport poor considering the place.
+Close by is the Grimersta river and lodge, perhaps the finest rod salmon
+fishery in Scotland. A young East Indian whom I happened to know had a
+rod there, and was then at the lodge. On asking him about fishing, etc.,
+he told me, and showed me by the lodge books, that the record for this
+river was fifty-four salmon in one day to one rod, all caught by the
+fly! The fortunate fisherman's name? Mr Naylor! the very man I had
+travelled with to New Zealand! I have vainly tried for three seasons now
+to get a rod on this river, if only for a week, and at L30 a week that
+would be long enough for me. I also this autumn had a rod on the Dee,
+but only fished twice; no fish and no water. During this summer I golfed
+very determinedly, buoyed up by the vain hope of becoming a first-class
+player--a "scratch" man. Alas! alas! but it is all vanity anyway! What
+does the angler care for catching a large basket of trout if there be no
+one by to show them to? And what does the golfer care about his game if
+he have not an opponent or a crowd to witness his prowess? At Muirfield
+I enjoyed the amateur championship--R. Maxwell's year.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+FOURTH TOUR ABROAD
+
+     Yucatan--Honduras--Costa
+     Rica--Panama--Equador--Peru--Chile--Argentina--Brazil--Teneriffe.
+
+
+October 1909 saw me on board the steamer _Lusitania_, bound for New York
+and another long trip somewhere. What a leviathan! What luxury! Think of
+the Spanish dons who crossed the same ocean in mere cobble boats of
+fifty tons, and our equally intrepid discoverers and explorers. What
+methods did they adopt to counteract the discomfort of _mal de mer_?
+Which reminds me that on this same _Lusitania_ was the Viscomte D----,
+Portuguese Ambassador or Minister to the United States of America, who
+confidentially told me that he at one time was the worst of sailors, but
+since adopting a certain belt which supports the diaphragm the idea of
+sea-sickness never even suggests itself to him. For the public benefit
+it may be said that this belt is manufactured by the Anti Mal de Mer
+Belt Co., National Drug and Chemical Co., St Gabriel Street, Montreal,
+Canada. Bad sailors take note! On this steamer were also, as honoured
+guests, Jim Jeffries, the redoubtable, going to his doom; "Tay Pay"
+O'Connor; and Kessler, the "freak" Savoy Hotel dinner-giver; also, by
+the way, a certain London Jew financier, who gave me a commission to go
+to and report on the Quito railroad.
+
+When travelling west from New York in the fall one is filled with
+admiration for the wonderful colour of the maple and other trees. Europe
+has nothing at all comparable. This wonderful display is alone worth
+crossing the Atlantic to see.
+
+I found that the past summer had been a record hot one for Texas. The
+thermometer went to 115 deg. in the shade. Eggs were cooked (fried, it is to
+be supposed) on the side-walk, and popcorn popped in the stalks. In
+November I sailed from New Orleans for Yucatan to visit at Merida a
+Mexican friend, who turned out to be the King of Yucatan, as he was
+popularly called, he being an immense landed proprietor and practically
+monopolist of the henequin industry. Henequin, or Sisal hemp, is the
+fibre of _Agave Sisalensis_, a plant very like the _Agave Americana_,
+from which pulque is extracted. Thence round the corner, so to speak, to
+British Honduras, where we called in at Belize, whose trade is in
+mahogany and chicklee gum, combined with a deal of quiet smuggling done
+with the Central American States. Quite near Belize, among the
+innumerable islands and reefs, was the stronghold of the celebrated
+pirate Wallace (Scotchman). Many man-o'-war birds and pelicans were in
+the harbour. From Belize to Porto Barrios, the eastern terminus of the
+Guatemala railway. Here we are close to the scene of that wonderful and
+mysterious Central American prehistoric civilization, which has left for
+our antiquarians and learned men a life-work to decipher the still dumb
+symbols carved on its stupendous ruins. In Guatemala, and near this
+railway, are Copan and Quirigua, and probably other still undiscovered
+dead cities. Some of these Guatemala structures show a quite
+extraordinary resemblance to those at Angkor in Cambodia. Mitla and
+Palenque are in Mexico and are equally remarkable. The latter is still
+difficult to get to. Here again (Palenque) the temple shows a strange
+similarity to that at Boro Budoer in Java. Was it Stamford Raffles who
+said that, as far as the expenditure of human labour and skill goes, the
+pyramids of Egypt sink into insignificance when compared with this
+sculptured temple of Boro Budoer. Chichen-Itza, Labna, Sayil and Uxmal
+are all in Yucatan and approached from Merida. How many more of such
+very wonderful ruins are still hidden in the dense jungle of these
+countries it will be many years yet before we may know. Some I have seen
+myself, and it is still my hope very soon to visit others.
+
+Among the wild animals of Yucatan and Honduras are the jaguar (_Felis
+onca_) with spots, ocellated or eyed; and the panther (_Felis
+concolor_) called puma in Arizona; the vaca de aqua or manatee, shaped
+like a small whale but with two paddles; the howling monkey, largest in
+America, and the spider monkey; the iguana, largest land lizard known to
+history, and alligators. Alligators are confined to the Western
+Hemisphere; crocodiles were supposed to be peculiar to the East, but
+lately a true crocodile (_Crocodilus Americanus_) has been identified in
+Florida. The alligator covers its eggs with a heap of rubbish for warmth
+and so leaves them; the African crocodile, on the contrary, buries them
+in the sand and then sits over them. The cardinal bird and the ocellated
+turkey must not be forgotten. Here may be found the leaf-cutting ants,
+which store the leaf particles in order to grow a fungus on, and which
+they are very particular shall be neither too damp nor too dry. Also
+another ant, the _Polyergus Rufescens_, a pure slave-hunter, absolutely
+dependent on its slaves for all the comforts of life and being even fed
+by them.
+
+In Honduras there are many Caribs, still a strong race of Indians,
+having a strict and severe criminal law of their own. They are employed
+mostly as mahogany cutters, and are energetic, intelligent and
+thoroughly reliable workmen. Puerto Cortez in Honduras has the finest
+harbour on the whole Atlantic coast of Central America.
+
+Note.--St Thomas is supposed to have visited and civilized the Central
+American Indians, as Quetzalcohuatl did in Mexico.
+
+On leaving New Orleans it had been my intention to enter Nicaragua and
+report to a certain New Orleans newspaper on the conditions in that most
+distressful country; said paper having commissioned me to do so.
+Entrance to the State could only be made from Guatemala, but that
+country's consul in New Orleans refused to issue the necessary passport.
+Had I gone as an Englishman, and not as an American, there might have
+been no difficulty. As said before, Central American States have a dread
+and suspicion of Yankees. This was at the time that two Yankee
+revolutionists had been shot by the President of Nicaragua.
+
+The next place of call was Limon, the port of Costa Rica. Every foot of
+land on these coasts, suitable for the growth of bananas, has been
+bought up by the great American Fruit Co., a company of enormous
+resources and great enterprise. Limon is a delightful little town from
+whence the railway runs to San Jose, the capital, which stands some 4000
+feet above sea-level. Costa Rica is a peace-loving little state,
+prosperous, and enjoying a delightful climate. Much coffee and cocoa is
+grown, shaded by the Bois immortel or madre de Cacao. The live-stock
+industry is also a large one, and the animals seen on the high grassy
+plains are well grown and apparently well bred enough. I visited
+Cartago, a city which soon afterwards was destroyed by an earthquake.
+
+On the railroad trip up to and back from the capital we passed through
+lovely and romantic scenery, high hills, deep ravines and virgin
+tropical forest. The rainy season was at its height, and how it rained!
+The river was a raging torrent, and from the railway "cut" alongside
+continuous land-slides of loose gravelly soil were threatening the track
+with demolition. Indeed, at some points this had actually occurred, and
+the train several times had to be stopped to allow the gangs of workmen
+to clear the way. A bad slide, had it hit the train, would have pushed
+the whole thing into the deep and turbulent river. All the passengers
+were much alarmed, and I stood on the car platform ready to jump, though
+the jump would necessarily have been into the seething water.
+
+November 27th.--Colon once more! Went on to Panama. The Chagres River
+was in the highest state of flood known in twenty years.
+
+November 30th.--Sailed on steamship _Chile_ with about thirty
+passengers, all Spanish Americans, bound for Equador, Peru or Chile.
+
+December 3rd.--Reached the Equator, and I donned warmer clothes. We saw
+whales, sharks, porpoises, rays and thrashers. Entered the Guayaquil
+River. Here was where Pizarro first landed and obtained a footing. The
+steamer anchored in quarantine a mile below the city. Yellow fever was
+raging as usual, and the Quito railroad was blocked by the
+revolutionists, so my projected visit again for the second time fell
+through. Guayaquil has the highest permanent death-rate of all cities.
+The state produces much cocoa and mangrove wood. The town is the centre
+of the Panama hat trade, which hats are made of the sheaths of the
+unexpanded leaves of the jaraca palm, or of the long sheaths protecting
+the flower-cone of the hat palm (_taquilla_); and they can only be made
+in a favourable damp atmosphere. Here on the mangrove roots and
+submerged branches enormous quantities of oysters may be found. Oysters
+on trees at last! Belonging to Equador State are the Galapagos Islands,
+500 miles westward. Of course we did not visit them, but they are
+remarkable for their giant tortoises and their wild cattle, donkeys and
+dogs. It is said that these dogs do not bark, having forgotten how to;
+but they develop the power after contact with domestic ones. The
+Guayaquil River swarms with alligators, but luckily the alligator never
+attacks man.
+
+We sailed south down the coast, calling at many ports. From Guayaquil
+south to Valparaiso, a distance of 2000 miles, we enjoyed bright, clear
+weather, a pleasant, sometimes an even too low temperature, and
+peaceful seas, a condition which the captain assured me was constant,
+the low temperature being due to the South Polar or Humboldt current.
+The absolute barren condition of this whole coast is also indirectly due
+to this current, the temperature of the sea being so much below that of
+the land that evaporation and condensation do not take place. After
+passing some guano islands on December 9th we landed at Callao, the port
+of Lima. Went on to Lima, a city founded by Pizarro, and once a very
+gay, luxurious and licentious capital. It is celebrated for its handsome
+churches. Its streets are narrow and the whole population seemingly
+devoted to peddling lottery tickets. There are many Chinamen amongst its
+150,000 inhabitants. The Roman Catholics control the country, which is
+absolutely priest-ridden, Reformed or other churches not being permitted
+in Peru. A revolution was attempted only a few days ago, the President
+having been seized and dragged out of his office to be shot. The
+military, however, rescued him and the revolution was over in
+twenty-four hours. Peru's resources, outside of the very rich mining
+districts, will eventually be found in the Montana country, on the lower
+eastern slopes of the Andes. Her people are backward, and, at least in
+Cuzco and Arequipa, I should say the dirtiest in the world. There is as
+yet little or no tourist traffic on this coast; and there will not be
+much till better steamers are put on and hotels improved. In Lima,
+however, the Hotel Maury is quite good, though purely Spanish. It never
+rains on this coast, yet Lima is foggy and cold.
+
+I took a trip up to Oroya over the wonderful Meiggs railway. M. Meiggs
+was an American, who had to leave his country on account of certain
+irregularities. We reached a height of 16,000 feet, the country being
+absolutely barren and devoid of vegetation, but very grand and imposing.
+
+December 16th.--Sailed from Callao for Mollendo, calling at Pisco. Here,
+close to the harbour, are wonderful guano islands, on two of which were
+dense solid masses of birds covering what seemed to be hundreds of acres
+of ground. How many millions or billions must there have been! And yet,
+it being the evening, millions more were flighting home to the islands.
+With glasses they could be seen in continuous files coming from all
+directions. These birds are principally cormorants and pelicans. There
+are also very many seals, and we saw some whales. These islands
+presented one of the most marvellous sights I ever saw. And what
+enormous, still undeveloped, fisheries there must be here to support
+this bird-life. To-day we also passed a field of "Red Sea," confervae or
+infusoria. We were favoured for once with a grand view of the Andean
+peaks, which are seldom well seen from the coast, being wrapped in
+haze and clouds.
+
+[Illustration: LLAMAS AS PACK ANIMALS.]
+
+[Illustration: DRIFTING SAND DUNE. (One of thousands.)]
+
+Arrived at Mollendo, port of Arequipa and Bolivia, I at once took train
+and rose rapidly to an elevation of 8000 feet, arriving in the evening
+at Arequipa. The whole country is desolate in the extreme. On the high
+plains we passed through an immense field of moving sand-hills, all of
+crescent shape, the sand being white and of a very fine grain. On
+approaching Arequipa the sunset effect on the bright and vari-hued rock
+strata and scoriae, backed by the grand Volcan Misti, 19,000 feet high,
+made a marvellously beautiful picture, the most beautiful of its kind
+ever seen by me, and showing how wonderfully coloured landscapes may be
+without the presence of vegetation of any kind. Hotels in Arequipa are
+very primitive, and after a glance at the market and its filthy people
+you will confine your table fare to eggs and English biscuits as I did.
+Arequipa has been thrice destroyed by earthquakes and is indeed
+considered the quakiest spot on earth. Priests, monks, ragged soldiers
+and churches almost compose the town; yet it has a very beautiful Plaza
+de Armas, where in the evenings Arequipa fashion promenades to the music
+of a quite good band. I seemed to be the only tourist here.
+
+On the 20th I took train to Juliaca, rising to 15,000 feet; thence two
+days to Cuzco, the celebrated southern capital of the Incas, whose
+history I will not here touch on. Not only are there abandoned Inca
+remains, but also in high Peru and Bolivia remains of structures
+erected, as it is now supposed, 5000 years ago. The pottery recently
+found would suggest this, it being as gracefully moulded and decorated
+as that of Egypt of the same period; authority even declaring it to be
+undistinguishable from the latter, and they also testify to evidence of
+an extremely high and cultivated civilization, not barbaric in any
+sense, in these remote periods. Indeed, the civilization of the country
+at that far-off time must have been quite as advanced as in the Nile
+Valley. Cyclopean walls and other remains show a marvellous skill in
+construction; individual blocks of granite-stone, measuring as much as
+fifteen to twenty feet in diameter, being placed in these walls with
+such skill that even to-day a pen-knife blade cannot be inserted between
+them. No mortar was used, but the blocks are keyed together in a
+peculiar way. How this stone was so skilfully cut and transported we
+cannot imagine; even with iron and all our modern appliances it is
+doubtful if we could produce such exactitude.
+
+[Illustration: PERUVIAN RUINS.
+(Note dimensions of stones and locking system)]
+
+At Puna one gets a good view of Lake Titicaca, still a large lake, but
+once of much greater dimensions. Sailing over and among the high peaks
+it was here my good fortune to view for the first time that majestic
+bird, the condor, which, it is declared, has never been seen to flap its
+wings. Thus in the South Seas I had been privileged to see the
+albatross, and here the condor. Lucky, indeed, to have viewed these
+monarchs of the air, free in their proper element, in all their pride,
+grace and beauty. How often, as a boy, or even as a man, has one
+anticipated "some day" seeing these noble birds in their native haunts!
+Also many llamas and alpacas, the former very handsome animals. The
+vicunas and guanacos are the wild representatives of this family, and
+are also very abundant. In Arequipa I suffered somewhat from "nevada,"
+due to electric conditions, and distinct from "saroche." Saroche never
+affected me.
+
+December 27th.--Sailed for Valparaiso, calling at Iquique, Antofagasta
+and Coquimbo. The coast country is so desolate and arid that at some of
+these purely nitrate towns school-children's knowledge of trees and
+other plants is derived solely from painted representations on boardings
+erected for the purpose. This may seem libellous, but is not so.
+
+We arrived at Valparaiso on New Year's Day. The city showed few signs of
+its late disaster. The harbour is poor, and the place has few
+attractions. Society was attending a race meeting at Vino del Mar. Went
+on to Santiago, the capital, 1500 feet elevation, population claimed
+300,000; our route lying through rich, well-cultivated valleys. The
+climate and general appearance of the country are much like those of
+California, the temperature being quite hot at mid-day but cool always
+in the shade, the nights being chilly. This was midsummer. Santiago has
+some handsome buildings and a very attractive Plaza Mayor; the hotels
+are poor. The Chilians are an active, intelligent, wide-awake people;
+are great fighters and free from the religious trammels of Peru. From
+here I took train to Los Andes; then by narrow gauge line, the grade
+being 7 per cent. on the cog track, through barren rough gorges to the
+Cumbre, or summit, 13,000 feet high. The most commanding peak that we
+saw was Aconcagua, over 23,000 feet high, and the highest mountain in
+the Western Hemisphere. At Lago del Inca, at the entrance to the
+incompleted tunnel, we left the train and took mules or carts to the
+summit, where is an immense, surprising and commanding figure of the
+Christ. On the Argentina side we again took train to Mendoza, an
+important town and centre of the fruit and wine country. Thence a
+straight run over the immense level pampas, now pastures grazed by
+innumerable cattle, sheep and horses, to Buenos Ayres. Many rheas
+(ostriches) were seen from the train. These birds, the hens, lay in each
+other's nests, and the male incubates--perhaps to save the time of the
+hens; which reminds one of the cuckoo, who mates often, and whose stay
+is so limited that she has no time to incubate. Yet she does not lay in
+nests, but on the ground, and the eggs are deposited by the male in the
+nests of birds whose eggs they most resemble, and only one in each.
+
+By-the-by, whilst in Santiago a quite severe quake occurred, but there
+were few casualties, only two people being killed. It was at night, and
+my bedroom being on the third floor of the only three-storey building in
+town, I continued to lie in bed, not indeed knowing what to do, and
+resigning myself to fate. I distinctly do not want to live in quaking
+countries!
+
+The sensation produced on one by an earthquake is peculiar and different
+from all others. One is not so much alarmed as overawed; one feels so
+helpless, so insignificant; you know you can do nothing. What may happen
+next at any moment is beyond your ken; only when you realize that the
+disturbance has actually shaken these immense mountain masses and these
+boundless plains do you appreciate the forces that have caused it. The
+Krakatoa outbreak raised the water in our Thames four inches. A great
+Peruvian earthquake sent a tidal wave into the Red Sea.
+
+Buenos Ayres is a city of some 1,200,000 people, half Italians (the
+working and go-ahead half) and half Spanish Americans. But there is
+also a very mixed population. There are many fine buildings and palatial
+residences, but the business streets are ridiculously narrow, save and
+except the Avenida de Mayo, which is one of the handsomest streets in
+the world. The new boulevards, the parks and race-tracks all deserve
+admiration. The hotels are not quite good enough--not even the palatial
+"Plaza." Prices, and indeed the cost of living, are quite as great as in
+New York. It was too hot to remain long, so I crossed to Montevideo,
+went all over the town; but beyond seeing (not meeting, alas!) one of
+the most beautiful girls I ever saw in my life, there was not much to
+interest. So, on the White Star Liner _Athenic_, I hastened to England.
+It may be remarked here that though Buenos Ayres and Santiago claim, and
+offer, wonderful displays of horsed carriages in their parks, if one
+watches them critically he will seldom see a really smart turn-out. The
+coachman's badly-made boots, or a strap out of place, or a buckle
+wanting, or blacking needed, all detract from the desirable London
+standard.
+
+January 24th.--We entered beautiful Rio harbour. In the town the
+temperature was unbearable. The city is in the same transformation
+condition as Buenos Ayres; the streets are narrow, except the very
+handsome new Avenida Central. The esplanade on the bay is quite
+unequalled anywhere else. Surely a great future awaits Rio! A trip up
+Corcovada, a needle-like peak, some 2000 feet high, overlooking the bay,
+should not be missed. We sailed again for Teneriffe to coal, which gave
+us an opportunity to admire the grand peak and get some idea of the
+nature of the country. Thence home.
+
+Perhaps a short note on the great historical personages of Central and
+South America may be of interest. Among these the greatest was Simon
+Bolivar, who with Miranda, the Apostle of Liberty, freed the Northern
+States of South America from Spanish dominion. It was Bolivar who in
+1826 summoned the first International Peace Congress at Panama. San
+Martin, an equally great man, born in Argentina, freed the southern half
+of the Continent. Lopez, president in 1862 of Paraguay, has secured
+notoriety for having had the worst character in all American history.
+Petion, almost a pure negro, deserves also a prominent place. He was
+born in 1770, was a great, good and able man, and freed Haiti; he also
+assisted and advised Bolivar. May I also remind you here that Peru is
+the home of the Peruvian bark tree (cinchona) and the equally valuable
+coca plant, which gives us cocaine. Paraguay is the country of the
+yerba-mate, universally drunk there, supplanting tea, coffee, cocoa and
+coca. Like coca it has very stimulating qualities. El Dorado, the
+much-sought-for and fabulous, was vouched for by Juan Martinez, the
+chief of liars, who located it somewhere up the Orinoco River.
+
+The Spaniards, and also the Portuguese, were wonderful colonizers and
+administrators. Just think what enormous territories their civilization
+influenced, and influenced for good. Certainly the torch of the
+Inquisition accompanied them; but even under that dreadful blight their
+colonies prospered and the conquered races became Iberianized, such was
+their masters' power of impressing their language, religion and manners
+on even barbarous tribes.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+FIFTH TOUR ABROAD
+
+     California--Honolulu--Japan--China--Singapore--Burmah
+     --India--Ceylon--The End.
+
+
+I hope these hasty notes, so hurriedly and scantily given, may have
+interested my readers enough to secure their company for one more
+globe-trot, which shall be rushed through in order to bring these
+reminiscences to a close.
+
+A momentous event of 1910 was the death of King Edward VII., which threw
+everybody into deep mourning; and it seemed to me Englishwomen never
+looked so well as when dressed in black.
+
+In the autumn I started for New York and Amarillo. Never before was I so
+impressed with the growth and improvement and possibilities of New York
+city, soon to be the most populous, wealthiest and greatest city the
+world has ever seen. The incomparable beauty of the American woods and
+forests in the fall again attracted me and afforded much pleasure.
+
+From Amarillo I went on to San Francisco, stopping off to have yet one
+more sight of the Grand Canon of the Colorado River. San Francisco was
+now almost completely restored, and much on the old plan. Her Knob-hill
+palaces are gone, but her hotels are better and more palatial than ever.
+
+November 22nd.--Sailed on a Japanese steamer for Yokohama, via Honolulu.
+These Japanese steamers are first-class, and noted for cleanliness and
+the politeness of the entire ship's company. We coaled at Honolulu and
+then proceeded. On approaching Yokohama we got a fine view of Fuji-San,
+the great national volcano, as it may be called, its perfect cone rising
+sheer from the low plain to a height of 12,700 feet. Fuji is at present
+quiescent; but Japan has some active volcanoes, and earthquakes are very
+frequent. My visit was at the least favourable time of the year, viz.,
+in winter. The country should be seen in spring, during the
+cherry-blossom season, or in the autumn, when the tree foliage is almost
+more beautiful.
+
+From Yokohama I went on to Tokio, formerly Jeddo, and now the capital.
+It is a large and busy city with some fine Government modern buildings.
+The palace, parks and temples form the sights. In the city proper as in
+all Japanese towns, the streets are very narrow and crowded with
+rickshaws, the only means of passenger conveyance. At the Anglo-Japanese
+dinner, given at my hotel, I had an opportunity of seeing Japanese men
+and women in full-dress attire, and to notice the extreme formalities of
+their greetings. A Japanese gentleman bows once, then again, and, as if
+he had forgotten something, after a short interval a third time. From
+Tokio I went to Kioto, formerly the residence of the Mikado, now purely
+a native city, with no modern buildings and still narrower streets; but
+it is the centre of the cloisonne, damascening and embroidery
+industries. Hotels in Japan are everywhere quite good. Here I visited
+the fencing and jiu-jitsu schools, which are attended by a large number
+of pupils, women as well as men. Also the geisha school, and saw girls
+taught dancing, music and tea ceremony. What perfectly delightful and
+charming little ladies Japanese girls of apparently all classes are. The
+smile of the geisha girl may be professional, but is very seductive and
+penetrating; so that the mere European man is soon a willing worshipper.
+The plump little waitresses in hotels and tea-houses, charmingly
+costumed, smiling as only they can smile, are incomparable. The
+Japanese, too, are the cleanest of all nations; the Chinese and Koreans
+among the dirtiest. They are extremely courteous as well as polite. A
+drunken man is hardly ever seen in Japan, a woman never. An angry word
+is hardly ever heard; indeed, the language has no "swear" words. All the
+people are artistic, even aesthetic. Arthur Diosy in his book declares
+that the Japanese are the most cheerful, peaceable, law-abiding and
+kindliest of all peoples. Up till the "Great Change," 1871, trade was
+considered unsuitable for, and degrading to, a gentleman. Women here,
+by-the-by, shave or have shaven the whole face, including the nose and
+ears, though not the eyebrows. How these Japs worship the beauties of
+Nature! Few of us might see much beauty in a purple cabbage; yet in my
+hotel purple cabbages were put in prominent places to decorate the
+dining-hall, and were really quite effective.
+
+From Kioto I went to Nara, once the capital of the Empire, a pretty
+place with large park and interesting museum. A great religious festival
+was on, including a procession of men in ancient armour and costumes.
+There was also some horse-racing, which was quite comical. Apparently no
+European but myself was present. On travelling to Nara I passed through
+the tea district of Oji. The gardens are very beautiful and carefully
+tended. It was a great treat to me this first opportunity to see
+something of Japanese peasant life, and to admire the intensive and
+thorough cultivation. Not a foot of productive soil is wasted. The
+landscape of rice-fields, succeeded by tea-gardens, bamboo groves, up to
+the forest or brush-clad hills, and the very picturesque villages and
+farmhouses and rustic temples, form many a delightful picture. In the
+growing season the whole country must be very beautiful. Excellent trout
+and salmon fishing may then be had. The adopted national game for
+youths seems to be base-ball, and not cricket as in China.
+
+Next I went to Kobe, via Osaka, the great manufacturing centre of the
+Empire. At Kobe took another Japanese steamer for Shanghai, calling at
+Moji, Shimonoseki and Nagasaki, and traversing the wonderfully beautiful
+inland Sea of Japan, a magnified, and quite as beautiful, Loch Lomond.
+This sea was dotted with innumerable fishing-boats. Indeed, Japan's
+sea-fisheries must be one of her most valuable assets. Moji harbour is a
+beautiful one, has an inlet and an outlet, but appears land-locked. On
+the mainland side is Shimonoseki, where Li Hung Chang signed the Peace
+Treaty with Japan, and where he was later wounded by an assassin.
+Nagasaki has also a fine harbour. From here I took a rickshaw ride over
+the hills to a lovely little summer coast-resort, passing through a most
+picturesque country.
+
+Japan has, among many others, one particular curiosity in the shape of a
+domestic cock, possessing a tail as much as fifteen feet in length, and
+which tail receives its owner's, or rather its owner's owner's, most
+careful consideration. The unfortunate bird is kept in a very small
+wicker cage, so small that he can't turn round, the long tail feathers
+escaping through an aperture and drooping to the ground. Once a day the
+bird is taken out and allowed to exercise for a short time on a
+spotlessly clean floor-mat.
+
+While in Japan I was told that her modern cultured men are satisfied
+with a simple work-a-day system of Ethics, priestly guidance being
+unnecessary, and they regard religion as being for the ignorant,
+superstitious or thoughtless. Thus they "emancipate their consciences
+from the conventional bonds of traditional religions."
+
+It has been remarked that the Japanese will probably never again be such
+heroes, or at least will never be such reckless, fanatical fighters as
+they were in the late war, as civilization and property rights will make
+life more worth living and therefore preserving. The same might apply to
+the Fuzzy Wuzzies, to Cromwell's Ironsides, and to some extent our own
+Highlanders and others of a like fanatical tendency.
+
+It had been my intention and hope to visit Korea, Port Arthur, Mukden
+and Peking; but was advised very strongly, on account of the extreme
+cold and almost Arctic conditions said to be prevailing in North China,
+not to go there. But at Shanghai I had better information, contradicting
+these reports and describing the weather as delightful at the capital.
+Shanghai has an immense river and ocean trade, and in the waterway are
+swung river gun-boats of all nations, as well as queer-looking Chinese
+armed junks, used in putting down piracy. I visited the city club, the
+country club, and the racecourse, and took a stroll at night through
+Soochow Road, among the native tea-houses, theatres, etc. Someone
+advised me to visit a town up the river on a certain day to witness the
+execution of some dozen river pirates and other criminals, a common
+occurrence; but such an attraction did not appeal to me.
+
+In China, as in Japan and other countries, the German, often gross,
+selfish and vulgar, is ever present. But he is resourceful and
+determined, and threatens to push the placid Englishman to the wall.
+
+Though the practice is not now permitted, Chinese women's bound and
+deformed feet are still to the stranger a constant source of wonder. It
+is said the custom arose in the desire of Court ladies to emulate the
+very tiny feet of a certain royal princess; but it is also suggested
+that the custom was instituted to stop the female gadding-about
+propensity!
+
+Here in Shanghai I first observed edible swallow-nests in the market for
+sale. They did not look nice, but why should they not be so, knowing as
+we do that the young of swallows, unlike those of other birds, vent
+their ordure over the sides, so that the nests are not in any way
+defiled. Here I also learned that Pidgin, as in the expression "Pidgin"
+English, is John's attempt to pronounce "business."
+
+From Shanghai to Soochow city, a typical Chinese walled town, still
+quite unmodernized, and no doubt the same as it was 2000 years ago.
+Tourists seldom enter it, and no European dwells within its walls,
+inside of which are crowded and jammed 500,000 souls. The main street
+was not more than six to eight _feet_ wide, and so filled with such a
+jostling, busy crowd of people as surely could not be seen anywhere else
+on earth. Even rickshaws are not allowed to enter, there being no room
+for them. Progress can only be made on a donkey, and then with much
+shouting and discomfort. What a busy people the Chinese are! Some day
+they may people the earth. They seem to be even more intelligent than
+the Japanese, more honest and more industrious; and have an almost
+lovable disposition. And what giants they are compared to their
+neighbours!--the men from the north being especially so. I also went by
+narrow and vile-smelling streets to visit a celebrated leaning pagoda
+near Soochow, and on returning took the opportunity offered of
+inspecting with much interest a mandarin's rock-garden, purely Chinese
+and entirely different from Japanese similar retreats. In Shanghai I
+visited the original tea-house depicted on the well-known willow-pattern
+china ware.
+
+January 1st.--Arrived at Hong-Kong and admired its splendid harbour and
+surroundings. This is one of the greatest seaports in the world, with an
+enormous trade. The whole island belongs to Great Britain; unlike
+Shanghai, where different nationalities merely have concessions. In the
+famous Happy Valley I had several days' golfing with a naval friend, and
+we played very badly. A trip up the river to Canton, the southern
+capital of China, an immense city with 2,000,000 population, was full of
+interest. Half the population seemingly live in boats.
+
+What indefatigable workers the Chinese are. They seem to work all night
+and they seem to work all day. They are busy as ants. If one cannot find
+employment otherwise he will make it! Barring the beggars, there are no
+unemployed and no unemployables. What a mighty force they must become in
+the world's economy. We estimate China's population by millions, but
+forget to properly scale their energy and industry. What is the future
+of such a people to be! Yet they seem to be incapable of any general
+national movement: each is absorbed in his immediate work and contented
+to be so; so unlike the Japanese, with equal energy and industry, plus
+boundless ambition and patriotism.[4]
+
+[Footnote 4: Appendix, Note I.]
+
+The Chinaman's pigtail calls for explanation. The Manchus, on conquering
+China in 1644, decreed that all Chinese should shave the rest of the
+head but wear the pigtail. The Chinese would not submit to this; so the
+politic Manchu emperor further decreed that only loyal subjects might
+adopt the custom, criminals to be debarred. This ruse was so successful
+that now the Chinaman is even proud of his adornment, and little
+advantage is being taken of a recent relaxation of the decree.
+
+Sailing for Singapore I was blessed with a cabin all to myself, and what
+a blessing it is! In all my travels I have been singularly fortunate in
+securing privacy in this way.
+
+There is not much to interest in Singapore. It is one of the hottest
+places on earth, the same in winter and summer, purely tropical. It has,
+however, fine parks, streets and open places. The principal hotel is the
+"Raffles," which I should imagine is also the worst. The most notable
+feature of Singapore is the variety of "natives" domiciled
+there--Ceylonese, Burmese, Chinese, Japanese, Siamese, Hindoos and
+Malays. After leaving Singapore we looked in at Penang, where we had
+time to inspect a famous Chinese temple. An American Army General,
+D----, and his wife were among the passengers, and I found much pleasure
+in their company; indeed, we travelled thereafter much together in
+Burmah and India.
+
+Rangoon, where we arrived next, is a large, well-laid-out city, as
+cosmopolitan as Singapore. The bazaars are well worth visiting, and the
+working of elephants in the great teak yards is one of the tourist's
+principal sights. But the great Shwe Dagon pagoda is of course the
+centre of interest, and indeed it is one of the most astonishing places
+of worship it has been my fortune to visit. The pagoda itself is of the
+typical bell shape, solidly built of brick, gilded from base to summit,
+and crowned with a golden Ti. The shrines, too, which surround and
+jostle it, hold the attention and wonder of the visitor. There are very
+many of these, mostly of graceful design, with delicate and intricate
+wood carvings and other decorations. The pagoda is the most venerated of
+all Buddhist places of worship, containing as it does not only the eight
+sacred hairs of Gautama, but also relics of the three Buddhas who
+preceded him. It is also from its great height, 370 feet (higher than St
+Paul's Cathedral), and graceful shape, extremely imposing and sublime.
+
+From Rangoon I trained to Mandalay, on the Irawadi River, not a large
+town, but rich in historical associations, and famous for its Buddhist
+pagodas, such as The Incomparable and the Arakan; also the Queen's
+Golden Monastery. King Theebaw's palace remains much as it was, and well
+worth examination. The population here is almost purely Burmese; in fact
+you see the Burmese at their best, and the impression is always
+favourable. What brilliant but beautiful colours they affect in their
+head-clothes, jackets and silken gowns. They are a cheerful,
+light-hearted and good-natured people, lazy perhaps, but all apparently
+well enough to do. The boys and the young men play the national game of
+football, the ball, made simply of lightly-plaited bamboo strips, being
+kicked and tossed into the air with wonderful skill and activity, never
+being allowed to touch the ground. The way they can "take" the ball from
+behind, and with the heel or side of the foot toss it upwards and
+forwards, would be a revelation even to the Newcastle United. The women
+and girls have utmost freedom and are to be seen everywhere, often
+smoking enormous cigarettes: merry and careless, but always well, and
+often charmingly, dressed.
+
+A fine view, and good idea, of the great Irawadi River may be obtained
+from Mandalay; but time was pressing, so I railed back to Rangoon
+instead of making the river trip, which my friends, the D----s, did.
+
+The steamer to Calcutta was unusually crowded, but I was again fortunate
+enough to secure the use of the pilot's cabin all to myself. The Hugli
+River was familiar even after thirty-four years' absence, and in
+Calcutta I noticed little change. The hotels, including the Grand and
+Continental, are quite unworthy of the city, only the very old and
+well-known Great Eastern approaching the first-class character. Calcutta
+was getting hot, so I at once went on to Darjeeling, hoping to get a
+view of what my eyes had ever longed to see--the glorious high peaks of
+the Himalayas, and the roof of the world. After a few hours' run through
+the celebrated Terai jungle, the haunt, and probably final sanctuary, of
+the big game of India, the track ascends rapidly and picturesquely
+through the tea district of Kangra, and arrives at Darjeeling, elevation
+7500 feet, the summer home of the Bengal Government and the merchant
+princes of Calcutta and elsewhere. I had been forewarned that the
+chances of seeing the high peaks at this time of the year were extremely
+slim; but my experience and disappointment in connection with Korea and
+Peking taught me to disregard such warnings; and, as it turned out, I
+was rewarded with a perfect day and magnificent views of Mounts
+Kinchinjunga and Everest, and all the other majestic heights; seen, too,
+in all their phases of cloud and mist, of perfectly clear blue sky, and
+of sunrise and sunset effects. It was indeed a most satisfying and
+absorbing twenty-four hours' visit, as I had also time, under the
+guidance of an official friend, to visit the picturesque weekly market
+or bazaar, where natives from Sikkim, Nepal, Butan and Tibet may be seen
+in all their dirt and strangeness. Also the quite beautiful Botanic
+Gardens, the Club House, the prayer-wheels, etc. More than that, I was
+privileged to pay my respects to the Dalai Lama, who had but recently
+left his kingdom and taken refuge here. The acknowledged spiritual head
+of the Buddhists of Mongolia and China is a young man with a dreamy,
+absorbed expression of countenance, perhaps not of much intellectuality,
+but who is approachable even to the merely curious. My friend and kind
+cicerone was Commissioner of the Bengal police, and was extremely busy
+laying guards along the railroad and taking all other necessary
+precautions for the safety of the German Imperial Crown Prince during
+his projected visit to Darjeeling, a visit ultimately abandoned. I can
+imagine his chagrin at the waste of all his labours, expense to the
+Indian Government, etc. etc., due to the caprice of this apparently
+frivolous and not quite courteous young hopeful. Indeed, the Crown
+Prince, though a popular young fellow enough, was the source of trouble
+and tribulation to his hosts, breaking conventions and scandalizing
+Society by his disregard of its usages.
+
+Returning to Calcutta I thence took train to Agra via Allahabad,
+purposely, on account of the great discomfort and poor hotel
+accommodation due to the large tourist traffic, avoiding Lucknow,
+Benares and Cawnpore. At Allahabad the Aga Khan, temporal head of the
+Mohammedans of India, and a man of great authority and influence, joined
+our train, and part of the way I was lucky enough to be in his company
+and had an opportunity of speaking with him. In appearance he is a
+Turk, quite European in dress, and seems capable, energetic, sociable
+and agreeable. At every stopping-place he received an ovation, crowds of
+his Mussulman supporters and friends, among them apparently being chiefs
+and rajahs and other men of high degree, greeting him with much
+enthusiasm, which enthusiasm I learned was aroused by His Highness'
+endeavour towards the raising of the status of the Mohammedan College of
+Aligarh to that of a university.
+
+I should say here that, on Indian railways, the first-class carriages
+are divided into compartments, containing each four beds, but in which
+it is customary to put only two passengers, at least during sleeping
+hours, and unless an unusual crowd requires otherwise.
+
+It was also on this train I made the acquaintance of a gentleman on his
+way to visit the Maharaja of Gwalior, and who was kind enough to ask me
+to accompany him. I told him that if he would secure me an invitation
+from the Maharaja I would be only too pleased to do so. Gwalior was a
+place on my itinerary anyway; to go there as a guest would secure me
+many advantages not attainable by the ordinary tourist. My friend said
+he would see the Maharaja at once and have my visit arranged for. A few
+days afterwards I received advice that it had been done, so on arrival
+at Gwalior I was met by one of the State carriages and conveyed to the
+Guest House, formerly the zenana, close to the palace, a very beautiful
+and handsome building, where an excellent staff of servants, capital
+meals, choice liquors and cigars, were at our free disposal. His
+Highness does not eat with his guests, but they are all put up in this
+building; and during big shoots, durbars, or festive occasions, the
+house is always full. At the time of my visit the few guests included
+two Scotch manufacturers, who had just effected large sales of machinery
+to the Maharaja, the one securing from him an order worth L60,000 for
+steam-breaking ploughs, the other an order of some L20,000 for pumping
+appliances. The Maharaja is a thoroughly progressive man, has an
+enormous revenue, and devotes a large part of it to the bringing into
+cultivation tracts of hitherto unbroken and unoccupied land, which no
+doubt will eventually increase his revenue and provide homesteads for
+his people. Sindia, as his name is, is a keen soldier, a keen sportsman,
+and most loyal to the British Raj. He moves about freely, wearing a
+rough tweed suit, is busy and occupied all day long, and though he has
+ministers and officials of all degrees, and keeps great state on
+occasion, his army numbering some 5000 men, he finds time to superintend
+the various departments of his Government, and to administer his State
+with a thoroughness uncommon among Indian potentates. The new palace is
+very beautiful and furnished in European manner, apparently quite
+regardless of expense. The crystal chandeliers in the reception-rooms
+are magnificent, and must alone represent fabulous sums. Near by the
+palace are a number of lions, now kept in proper cages, but I must say
+from the smell and filth not under very sanitary conditions. These lions
+he had imported from abroad and turned loose to furnish sport to his
+shooting friends; but they killed so many of the peasantry that they had
+to be recaptured and confined. The town of Lashkar, the State capital
+city, being reported full of plague, I was naturally careful in passing
+through. Nothing in it calls for comment, however. Gwalior Fort, on a
+high rocky plateau, has much historic interest. In it are the ancient
+palaces, still in fair condition but long ago abandoned, certain Jain
+temples covered with bas-relief carvings, tanks and many old ruins. The
+entrance is handsome and impressive. My friend and myself were supplied
+with an elephant, so we rode all over the immense fort, now almost
+silent, having only a small guard and a few other occupants. Altogether
+I enjoyed the visit very much, and after three or four days' stay
+returned to Agra. Everyone knows Agra, with its heavenly Taj-Mahal, its
+great fortress, its pearl mosque, its beautiful halls of audience and
+its palaces. It is truly sad to know that one of our former
+Governor-Generals actually proposed to tear down the Taj-Mahal so that
+he could use the marble for other purposes! Among these delights of
+architecture one could wander for days, ever with an unquenched greed
+for the charm of their beauties. One sees marbled trellis-work of
+exquisite design and execution, and inlaid flower wreaths and scrolls of
+red cornelian and precious stone, as beautiful in colour as graceful in
+form. Agra's cantonment avenues and parks are kept in excellent order.
+The temperature at the time of my visit was delightfully cool, and the
+hotel the best I had yet found in India. Fatepur Sikri, a royal city
+built by Akbar, only to be abandoned by him again, is near Agra, and
+possesses enough deserted palaces, mosques and other beautiful buildings
+to make it well worth a visit.
+
+There is, for instance, the great mosque, rival to the Taj-Mahal, the
+inside of which is entirely overlaid with mother-of-pearl.
+
+From Agra I went to Delhi, India's imperial city. In and around it are
+innumerable palaces, mosques, tombs and forts, each and all worthy of
+careful inspection; but I will only mention the Jama Musjid; inside the
+fort the Diwan-i-Am, wherein formerly stood the famous peacock throne;
+and the Diwan-i-Kas, at either end of which, over the outer arches, is
+the famous Persian inscription, "If Heaven can be on the face of the
+earth it is this! Oh, it is this! Oh, it is this!" In the city itself is
+the famous street called Chandni Chauk. North of the city is a district
+where the principal incidents of the siege took place, and there also is
+the plain devoted to imperial durbars and assemblages. South of the city
+are many celebrated tombs, such as those of Emperor Humayun, and of
+Tughlak; and the majestic Kutab Minar. Mutiny recollections of course
+enormously add to one's interest in Delhi, and many days may be
+agreeably passed in company with her other historic, tragic and romantic
+associations. At the time of my visit preparations were already
+beginning for the great Coronation Durbar to be held next winter. Most
+hotels and private houses have already been leased. What the general
+public will do for accommodation I do not know. One will almost
+necessarily, like the King, have to go under canvas. The Circuit House
+will only be used by His Majesty should bad weather prevail. The native
+rulers of every grade are going to make such a display of Oriental
+magnificence as was never seen before. To many it will be their ruin, or
+at least a serious crippling of their resources; but it is a chance for
+display that does not often occur and they seem determined to make the
+most of it.
+
+Here at Delhi the General and myself again joined forces, he and his
+wife having visited Lucknow and Cawnpore. We took train direct to
+Peshawar, via Rawal Pindi and Lahore. I never knew anyone who enjoyed
+foreign travel so much as my American friend. He was in a constant state
+of delight, finding interest and pleasure in small matters that never
+even attracted my attention, though as a rule my faculty for observation
+is by no means obtuse. In Burmah the bright-hued cupras of the natives
+filled him with intense joy, and the presence of some closely-screened
+native ladies on a ferryboat so held his gaze that his wife (and I
+suspect they were not long married) must have felt pangs of jealousy.
+But he was a keen soldier, and had frequently represented his country at
+the German and other manoeuvres, and had been Adjutant-General at the
+inauguration of President Roosevelt, a very honourable position indeed.
+So he was intensely interested in old forts and battlefields, and his
+enthusiasm while in Peshawar and the Khaiber Pass was boundless. More
+than that he was a strong Anglo-Phile, and amused me by his disparaging
+criticism on how his own Government did things in the Philippines and
+elsewhere, compared with what he saw in India and other British
+possessions. Peshawar is a very delightful place, or so at least it
+appeared to me. We lodged in a capital though small hotel. The climate
+was then very agreeable; the cantonment gardens and avenues are a
+paradise of beauty, at least compared with the surrounding dry and
+semi-barren country. In the native city one mixed with new races of
+people, Afghans and Asians, and picturesque and fierce-looking tribesmen
+from the hills. Also an immense number of camels, the only means of
+traffic communication with western and northern native states.
+
+But before arriving at Peshawar one must not forget to mention the
+magnificent view obtained from the car windows of the glorious range of
+Cashmere Snowy Mountains, showing peaks of 20,000 to 25,000 feet
+elevation; nor the crossing by a fortified railway bridge of the
+historic Indus River, near Attock, at the very spot where the Greek
+Alexander entered India on his campaign of conquest A mile above this
+point the Kabul River joins the Indus. Here too is a romantic-looking
+town and fortress built by the Emperor Akbar, still unimpaired and in
+occupation by British troops. The approaches to the bridge and fort are
+strongly guarded, emplacements for guns being noticeable at every
+vantage point on the surrounding hills, while ancient round towers and
+other fortifications tell of the troublous times and martial deeds this
+important position has been witness to.
+
+For our visit to the Khaiber Pass General Nixon, Commandant at Peshawar,
+put a carriage at our disposal, in which we drove as far as Jamrud, the
+isolated fort so often pictured in our illustrated papers, where we
+exchanged into tongas, in which to complete the journey through the pass
+as far as Ali Musjid. The pass is now patrolled by the Afridi Rifles, a
+corps composed of Afridi tribesmen commanded by British officers. At
+frequent intervals along the route these Afridi sentinels can be seen
+standing on silent guard on all commanding points of the hills. One sees
+numerous Afridi hamlets, though what the occupants find to support
+themselves with it is difficult to understand. A good carriage road
+continues all the way, in places steep enough and tortuous, as the rough
+broken nature of the country necessitates. By another road or trail,
+paralleling our own, a continuous string of camel caravans proceeds in
+single file at a leisurely gait, the animals loaded with merchandise for
+the Kabul market and others in Central Asia. It is a rough, desolate and
+uninteresting country, yet grand and beautiful in its way, and one is at
+once struck with the difficulties to be encountered by troops
+endeavouring to force their way through, commanded as the pass is at
+every turn by positions so admirably suited for guerrilla warfare and
+delightful possibilities for an enemy with sniping propensities. At Ali
+Musjid the camel and carriage tracks come together. Here at this little
+mosque was the point beyond which we were not allowed to proceed; so
+after a most interesting visit we returned to Peshawar. We were most
+fortunate in the weather, as the strong wind which always blows down the
+pass is in winter time generally excessively cold. At Peshawar I bade
+good-bye to my most agreeable American friends, the General being keen
+on visiting Quetta; whither, had it not been so much out of my own
+proposed line of travel, I would gladly have accompanied him. So my next
+move was back to Delhi, and thence by train via Jeypore to Udaipur, one
+of the most delightfully picturesque and interesting of all Indian
+native capitals. There is a tiny little hotel at Udaipur, outside the
+walls, showing that visiting tourists are few and far between. The
+Maharana holds by his old and established customs, and has none of the
+modern spirit shown by such princes as Sindia, the Nizam, and certain
+other native chiefs. He has, however, gone so far as to furnish his new
+palace in a most gorgeous manner, the chairs, tables, mirror frames,
+bedsteads seen in the State apartments being composed of crystal glass.
+The show attraction of the palace, in the eyes of the attendants, who
+were ever at one's beck and call, was a Teddy dog with wagging head,
+which miracle of miracles one seemed to be expected to properly marvel
+at. The old palace, adjoining the new, is a much finer building, being
+mostly of marble, and is purely Oriental in its stairways, doorways,
+closets, balconies and delightful roof-gardens, as one's preconceived
+notions expect an Eastern potentate's palace to be. The new palace
+showed no sign of occupancy, and I imagined the Maharana, then absent,
+really favours the older building, and small blame to him! Around in
+various places the State elephants are stabled, or rather chained, in
+the open air, and looked after by their numerous attendants. In the
+grand court in front were several of these animals, and a myriad of
+pigeons, protected by their sanctity, flew about in clouds, or perched
+on the projections of the palace walls. From a boat on the large and
+lovely lake, on whose very edge the commanding palace stands, a
+beautiful view is obtained. On islands in the lake two delightful little
+summer palaces are built, of white marble and luxuriously furnished
+within. Elephants were bathing themselves at the water's edge, and the
+roar of caged lions was heard from the neighbouring royal garden.
+Pea-fowl perched on the marble colonnade, and pigeons were circling and
+sailing in the glorious sunshine. What a sight! especially when evening
+drew in, and the setting sun lighted up the graceful cupolas and domes,
+and threw shadows round the towers and battlements, the whole reflected
+in the glassy surface of the water. At one place near by the wild pigs
+approached to be fed and some grand old fellows may be seen amongst
+them.
+
+[Illustration: PALACE OF MAJARANA OF UDAIPUR.]
+
+It is still the custom of nearly all men here above the rank of coolie
+to carry swords or other weapons. For are these Rajputs not of a proud
+and warlike race, as may be seen by their bearing; and is not their
+Maharana of the longest lineage in India, and the highest in rank of all
+the Rajput princes? A few miles from the capital is Chitorgarh. Here I
+saw the wonderful old fortress, with its noble entrance gate, and the
+ancient town of Chitor, once the capital of Mewar. Also the two imposing
+towers of Fame and Victory. Throughout the state one is struck by the
+great number of wild pea-fowl picking their way through the stubble just
+as pheasants do. The flesh of pea-fowl, which I have tasted, is
+excellent eating, surpassing that of the pheasant. One also sees numbers
+of a large grey, long-tailed monkey, which seem to preferably attach
+themselves to old and ruined temples or tombs. From here, Chitorgarh, I
+next took train to Bombay, passing through Rutlam, a great
+poppy-producing centre. At Baroda I received into my compartment the
+brother of the late Gaikwar (uncle of the present?). It had often
+occurred to me before to wonder how the high-class natives travel on the
+railways. Never had I yet seen a native enter a first-class compartment
+where there happened to be any Europeans. In this instance, at Baroda,
+I had noticed a man, apparently of consequence, judging by his
+attendants, evidently wanting to travel by this train. Soon one of the
+party approached, and almost humbly, it seemed more than politely, asked
+if I would have no objection to the company of the brother of the
+Gaikwar. Of course I said I could have no objection, and so we travelled
+together to Bombay. But what is the feeling between the two races that
+keeps them thus apart?
+
+Bombay surprised me more by the delightfully cold breeze then blowing
+than by anything else. I took a drive over Malabar Hill and saw the
+Parsee Towers of Silence, as they are popularly called. The immense Taj
+Hotel, where I stayed one night, by no means justifies its pretensions.
+Indeed, it is one of the poorest or worst in all India. Next day I
+started out for Hyderabad, and had a long, hot, slow twenty-four hours'
+journey; the principal crop noticed being to me the familiar Kafir corn.
+Yes, it was very hot and dusty. As usual, the train was packed with
+natives, but myself seemed to be the only European on board. Arrived at
+Hyderabad, I at once drove over to Secunderabad, a very large British
+cantonment and station. From here, missing the friends I had come to
+see, and there being nothing to specially interest otherwise, I again
+took train to Madras. A letter of introduction in my pocket to the
+Nizam's Prime Minister might have been useful in seeing the city had I
+presented it, but pressure of time induced me to push on; nor did I stop
+in Madras longer than to allow of a drive round the city, the heat being
+very great. Indeed, I was getting very tired of such hurried travel and
+sight-seeing, and was longing for a week's rest and quietude in the cool
+and pleasant highlands of Ceylon. My health also was now giving me some
+concern; so on again to Madura, _en route_ to Tuticorin, from whence a
+steamer would take me across to the land of spicy breezes. Madura has a
+wonderful old temple of immense size, surrounded by gopuras of pyramidal
+form, in whose construction huge stones of enormous dimensions were
+utilized; the temple also has much fine carving, etc. The old palace is
+of great beauty and interest.
+
+Colombo was, as usual, uncomfortably warm; only on the seashore at Galle
+Face could one get relief, and Galle Face with its excellent hotel is
+certainly a very delightful place. I did not stay in Colombo, but at
+once took train to visit Anauradapura and the dead cities of Ceylon.
+Here was the heart of a district ten miles in diameter, practically
+covered by the site and remains of the ancient city, which in its prime,
+about the beginning of the Christian era, ranked with Babylon and
+Nineveh in its dimensions, population and magnificence. Its walls
+included an area of 260 square miles. Among its ruins the most notable
+are the dagobas (pagodas), some of such enormous size that the number of
+bricks used in their construction baffles conception. One of the dagobas
+has a diameter of 327 feet and a height of 270. It is solidly built of
+bricks, and contains material enough to build a complete modern town of
+50,000 people. These Buddhist dagobas of Ceylon have the bell-shape
+form, and serve the same purpose as the Shwe Dagon in Rangoon, viz., to
+shelter relics of the Buddhas. Close by, within the walls of a Buddhist
+temple, or monastery, still grows the famous Bo or Pipal tree, the
+oldest living historical tree in the world, brought here 250
+B.C. from Buddh Gaya in India. Only a fragment of the original
+main trunk now exists, the various offshoots growing vigorously in the
+surrounding compound, all still guarded and attended by the priests as
+lovingly as when done 2200 years ago. At Anauradapura is a quite
+charming little Rest House, shaded and surrounded by beautiful tropical
+trees of great variety.
+
+From here I went to Kandy, the former capital of the native kings of
+that name. In the fourteenth century a temple was erected here to
+contain a tooth of Buddha and other relics. Later, the temple was sacked
+and the sacred tooth destroyed, but another to which was given similar
+attributes was put in its place. Kandy is a pretty spot, with a good
+hotel and agreeable climate, its elevation being 1800 feet above
+sea-level. Near by is Paradenia and the beautiful Botanical Gardens, in
+which it is a perfect delight to wander.
+
+We had already passed through a most lovely and picturesque country; but
+the grandest and most impressive scenery of Ceylon lies between Kandy
+and Newara Elia. Tea-gardens extend everywhere, and the cosy,
+neat-looking bungalows of the planters have a most attractive
+appearance. Newara Elia stands very high, some 7000 feet. Its vegetation
+is that of a temperate climate, and in the winter months the climate
+itself is ideal. The bracing atmosphere suggests golf and all other
+kinds of sport, and golfing there is of the very best kind. There is an
+excellent hotel, though I myself put up at the Hill Club. All Ceylon is
+beautiful, the roads are good, and many delightful excursions can be
+made. I do not think I ever saw a more beautiful country. But the
+sailing date draws near, so I must hurry down again to Colombo, and thus
+practically complete my second tour round the world. A P. & O. steamer
+brought us to Aden, the canal, Messina and Marseilles. We enjoyed lovely
+cool and calm weather all the way till near the end, when off the
+"balmy" coast of the Riviera we encountered bitter cold winds and stormy
+seas. And so through France to England, to the best country of them all,
+even though it be the land of coined currency bearing no testimony to
+its value; where registered letters may be receipted for by others than
+the addressee; and where butcher meat is freely exposed in the shops,
+and even outside, to all the filth that flies--my last fling at the dear
+old country.
+
+Someone has asked me which was the most beautiful place I had ever seen?
+It was impossible to answer. The whole world is beautiful! The barren
+desert, the boundless ocean, the mountain region and the flat country,
+even these monotonous Staked Plains of New Mexico, under storm or
+sunshine, all equally compel us to admiration and wonderment.
+
+In closing this somewhat higgledy-piggledy narrative, let me once more
+express my hope that readers will have found in it some entertainment,
+perhaps instruction, and possibly amusement.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX
+
+
+_Note I._--An outcry against Mormonism has been raised lately in this
+country. It is its polygamous character that has been attacked. But does
+polygamy deserve all that is said about it? It is not immoral and should
+not be criminal. Compare it with the very vicious modern custom of
+restricted families, which is immoral and should be criminal. Where is
+our population going to come from? The Chinese, Japanese, Indians and
+negroes are swarming all over the earth; while our race is almost
+stagnant, yet owning and claiming continents and islands practically
+unpeopled. Some day, possibly, polygamy will have to be permitted, even
+by the most civilized of nations.
+
+_Note II._--In this present year there is much writing and much talking
+about arbitration treaties and preferential tariffs. A general
+arbitration on _all_ matters between the United States and Great Britain
+is probably quite impracticable. Preferential tariff within the Empire
+would be highly advantageous to the Mother Country. If so, let us go for
+it while the opportunity offers. But it does seem to me there is a
+much-mistaken idea prevalent at home as to the loyalty of the Colonies
+and Dominions. One travels for information and should be allowed to give
+his conclusions. What holds these offshoots to the mother stem? Loyalty?
+I think not. Simply the realization that they are not (not yet) strong
+enough to stand alone: and it is the opinion of many that, as soon as
+they are, loyalty will be thrown to the winds; and naturally! (Since
+the above was written has it not been abundantly verified?) There is
+also even a belief (the wish being father to the thought) that the
+United States of America have a sentimental feeling for the Old Country;
+and one frequently hears the platform or banquet stock phrase, "Blood is
+thicker than water." It would be well if our people were enlightened
+with the truth. After twenty-five years' residence in the United States
+I will dare to say that the two nations are entirely foreign and
+antagonistic one to another. And it is a fortunate thing that between
+them few "Questions" remain to be arbitrated either by pen or sword. The
+two peoples do not understand one another, and do not try to. The
+ordinary English traveller does not meet or mix with the real American
+people, who are rapidly developing a civilization entirely their own, in
+social customs, in civil government, and even in fashions of dress.
+
+_Note III._--Might a just comparison not be drawn between these "dogies"
+and the type of men we now recruit for our standing Army? Are they not
+dogies? Is it not a fact that many of them never had a square meal in
+their lives! At least they look like it. But when taken up, if not while
+yet babies at least when they are still at a critical age of
+development, say eighteen years, and fed substantially and satisfyingly,
+as is now done in the Army, what an almost miraculous physical change
+takes place! And not only physical, but mental and moral, due to the
+influence of discipline and athletic exercises. If such be the effect on
+our few annual recruits, why not submit the whole young manhood of the
+nation to such beneficial conditions by the introduction of compulsory
+national military service? And not only that! Is not the private soldier
+of this country, alone of all others, refused admission to certain
+places of entertainment open to the public? Why? Because he is a
+hireling. Because no man of character or independence will adopt such a
+calling. He would degrade himself by doing so. But make the service
+compulsory to all men, and at once the calling becomes an honourable
+one. Can it be imagined for a moment that any of our raw recruits enter
+the service from a love for King and country? No; they sell their
+birthright for a red coat and a pittance, renounce their independence
+and stultify the natural ambition that should stimulate every man worthy
+of the name.
+
+Though our men do not have the initiative and self-resource of the
+Americans, still they are the smartest and best-set-up troops in the
+world. Many of them are of splendid physique and look like they could go
+anywhere and do anything. The whole world _was_ open to them; yet here
+they still are in the ranks, dummies and automatons, devoid of ambition
+and self-assertiveness.
+
+Only national service will rid us of the army of unemployables. It will
+develop them physically and mentally, and make men of them such as our
+Colonies will be glad and proud to admit to citizenship.
+
+
+  EDINBURGH
+  COLSTONS LIMITED
+  PRINTERS
+
+
+
+
+
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