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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Denmark, by M. Pearson Thomson, Illustrated
+by F. J. Hyldahl
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Denmark
+
+
+Author: M. Pearson Thomson
+
+
+
+Release Date: December 13, 2006 [eBook #20107]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DENMARK***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Juliet Sutherland, Ralph Janke, and the Project
+Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net/)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+ file which includes the original illustrations.
+ See 20107-h.htm or 20107-h.zip:
+ (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/0/1/0/20107/20107-h/20107-h.htm)
+ or
+ (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/0/1/0/20107/20107-h.zip)
+
+
+Transcriber's notes:
+
+ Text that is printed in italic style in the original is
+ enclosed between underscores (_italic text_)
+
+ The section of the book about Norway is not included.
+
+
+
+
+
+Peeps at Many Lands
+
+NORWAY
+BY LIEUT.-COL. A. F. MOCKLER-FERRYMAN,
+F.R.G.S., F.Z.S.
+
+and
+
+DENMARK
+BY M. PEARSON THOMSON
+
+With Sixteen Full-Page Illustrations
+in Colour
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+The MacMillan Company
+64 & 66 Fifth Avenue, New York
+1921
+
+
+
+
+DENMARK
+
+[Illustration: SKETCH-MAP OF DENMARK.]
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+DENMARK
+
+_By M. Pearson Thomson_
+
+ I. MERRY COPENHAGEN--I 1
+
+ II. MERRY COPENHAGEN--II 6
+
+ III. HANS ANDERSEN--THE "FAIRY-TALE" OF HIS LIFE 12
+
+ IV. FAMOUS DANES 18
+
+ V. LEGENDARY LORE AND FOLK-DANCES 25
+
+ VI. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 32
+
+ VII. A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND--I 39
+
+VIII. A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND--II 45
+
+ IX. THE PEOPLE'S AMUSEMENTS 51
+
+ X. FARM LIFE--BUTTER-MAKING--"HEDESELSKABET" 54
+
+ XI. SOLDIERS AND SAILORS 59
+
+ XII. THE PEOPLE OF THE ISLES 66
+
+XIII. FISHERMEN AT HOME AND AFLOAT 72
+
+ XIV. YOUTHFUL DANES AT WORK AND PLAY 78
+
+ XV. INGEBORG'S JOURNEY THROUGH SEELAND 83
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+
+
+DENMARK
+
+_By F. J. Hyldahl_
+
+ FACING PAGE
+
+FLOWER MARKET IN COPENHAGEN 9
+
+DRAGÖR PEASANT 16
+
+CHILDREN'S DAY 33
+
+HARVEST-TIME 40
+
+VAGT-PARADEN 57
+
+SUNDAY IN THE ISLAND OF LÆSÖ 64
+
+SKAGEN FISHERMAN NEAR THE TOWER OF BURIED CHURCH 73
+
+WINTER IN THE FOREST 80
+
+_Sketch-Map, page ii, Denmark Section._
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+DENMARK
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+MERRY COPENHAGEN--I
+
+
+Copenhagen, the metropolis of Denmark, is a large and flourishing city,
+with all the modern improvements of a commercial capital. It has an
+atmosphere of its own, an atmosphere of friendliness and gaiety,
+particularly appreciated by English people, who in "Merry Copenhagen"
+always feel themselves at home.
+
+The approach to this fine city from the North by the Cattegat is very
+charming. Sailing through the Sound, you come upon this "Athens of the
+North" at its most impressive point, where the narrow stretch of water
+which divides Sweden and Denmark lies like a silvery blue ribbon between
+the two countries, joining the Cattegat to the Baltic Sea. In summer the
+sparkling, blue Sound, of which the Danes are so justly proud, is alive
+with traffic of all kinds. Hundreds of steamers pass to and from the
+North Sea and Baltic, carrying their passengers and freights from
+Russia, Germany, Finland, and Sweden, to the whole world. In olden times
+Denmark exacted toll from these passing ships, which the nations found
+irksome, but the Danes most profitable. This "Sundtold" was abolished
+finally at the wish of the different nations using this "King's
+highway," who combined to pay a large lump sum to Denmark, in order that
+their ships might sail through the Sound without this annoyance in
+future.
+
+Kronborg Castle, whose salute demanded this toll in olden days, still
+rears its stately pinnacles against the blue sky, and looking towards
+the old fortress of Kjärnan, on the Swedish coast, seems to say, "Our
+glory is of a bygone day, and in the land of memories."
+
+Elsinore, the ancient town which surrounds this castle, is well known to
+English and American tourists as the supposed burial-place of Hamlet,
+the Prince of Denmark immortalized by Shakespeare. Kronborg Castle is
+interesting to us, in addition, as being the place where Anne of Denmark
+was married by proxy to James I. of England. Here, also, the "Queen of
+Tears," Caroline Matilda, sister of George III., spent some unhappy
+months in prison, gazing sadly over the Sound, waiting for the English
+ships to come and deliver her.
+
+We pass up the Sound viewing the luxuriant cool green beech-woods of
+Denmark, and the pretty fishing villages lying in the foreground. Villas
+with charming gardens--their tiny rickety landing-stages, bathing sheds,
+and tethered boats, adding fascination to the homely scene--seem to
+welcome us to this land of fairy tales and the home of Hans Andersen.
+
+The many towers and pinnacles of Copenhagen, with the golden dome of the
+Marble Church, flash a welcome as we steam into the magnificent harbour
+of this singularly well-favoured city. Here she stands, this "Queen of
+the North," as a gracious sentinel bowing acquiescence to the passing
+ships as they glide in and out of the Baltic. The broad quays are
+splendidly built, lined with fine warehouses, and present a busy scene
+of commercial activity. The warships lying at their moorings in the
+Sound denote that this is the station of the fleet; here also we see the
+country's only fortress--the formidable bulwarks which surround the
+harbour.
+
+Kjöbenhavn in Danish means "merchants' harbour," and as early as the
+eleventh century it was a trading centre for foreign merchants attracted
+by the rich supply of herrings found by the Danish fishermen in the
+Baltic. Bishop Absalon was the founder of the city. This warrior Bishop
+strongly fortified the place, in 1167, on receiving the little
+settlement from King Valdemar the Great, and had plenty to do to hold
+it, as it was continually harassed by pirates and the Wends. These,
+however, found the Bishop more than a match for them. His outposts would
+cry, "The Wends are coming!" and the Bishop would leave his preaching,
+his bed, or anything else he might be doing, gather his forces together,
+and fight gallantly for his little stronghold. He perhaps recognized
+that this might one day be the key to the Baltic, which it has since
+become.
+
+This city, therefore, is not a new one, but bombardment and
+conflagrations are responsible for its modern appearance. Fortunately,
+some of the handsome edifices raised during the reign of Christian IV.
+(1588-1648) still remain to adorn the city. This monarch was a great
+architect, sailor, warrior, and King, and is one of the most striking
+figures in Danish history. He was beloved by his people, and did much
+for his kingdom. The buildings planned and erected during this monarch's
+reign are worthy of our admiration. The beautiful Exchange, with its
+curious tower formed by four dragons standing on their heads, and
+entwining their tails into a dainty spire; Rosenborg Castle, with its
+delicate pinnacles; the famous "Runde Taarn" (Round Tower), up whose
+celebrated spiral causeway Peter the Great is said to have driven a
+carriage and pair, are amongst the most noteworthy. The originality in
+design of the spires and towers of Copenhagen is quite remarkable. Vor
+Frelsers Kirke, or Church of Our Saviour, has an outside staircase,
+running round the outside of its spire, which leads up to a figure of
+our Saviour, and from this height you get a fine view of the city. The
+tower of the fire-station, in which the fire-hose hangs at full length;
+the copper-sheathed clock and bell tower--the highest in Denmark--of the
+Town Hall; the Eiffel-like tower of the Zoo, are among the most
+singular. In all these towers there is a beautiful blending of copper
+and gold, which gives a distinctive and attractive character to the
+city. Other prominent features are the pretty fish-scale tiling, and the
+copper and bronze roofs of many of the buildings, with their "stepped"
+gables. Charming, too, are the city's many squares and public gardens,
+canals with many-masted ships making an unusual spectacle in the
+streets. But, after all, it is perhaps the innate gaiety of the
+Copenhagener which impresses you most. You feel, indeed, that these
+kindly Danes are a little too content for national development; but
+their light-hearted way of viewing life makes them very pleasant
+friends, and their hospitality is one of their chief characteristics.
+Every lady at the head of a Danish household is an excellent cook and
+manager, as well as being an agreeable and intelligent companion. The
+Copenhagener is a "flat" dweller, and the dining-room is the largest and
+most important room in every home. The Dane thinks much of his dinner,
+and dinner-parties are the principal form of entertainment. They joke
+about their appreciation of the good things of the table, and say, "a
+turkey is not a good table-bird, as it is a little too much for one
+Dane, but not enough for two!" A very pleasant side of Copenhagen life
+has sprung up from this appreciation, for the restaurants and cafés are
+numerous, and cater well for their customers. While the Dane eats he
+must have music, which, like the food, must be good; he is very
+critical, and a good judge of both. This gay café and restaurant life is
+one of the fascinations of Denmark's "too-large heart," as this pleasant
+capital is called by its people.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+MERRY COPENHAGEN--II
+
+
+The climate of Copenhagen is delightful in summer, but quite the reverse
+in winter. Andersen says "the north-east wind and the sunbeams fought
+over the 'infant Copenhagen,' consequently the wind and the 'mud-king'
+reign in winter, the sunbeams in summer, and the latter bring
+forgetfulness of winter's hardships." Certainly, when the summer comes,
+the sunshine reigns supreme, and makes Copenhagen bright and pleasant
+for its citizens. Then the many water-ways and canals, running up from
+the sea as they do into the heart of the city, make it delightfully
+refreshing on a hot day. Nyhavn, for instance, which opens out of the
+Kongen's Nytorv--the fashionable centre of the town--is one of the
+quaintest of water-streets. The cobbled way on either side of the water,
+the curious little shops with sailors' and ships' wares, old gabled
+houses, fishing and cargo boats with their forests of masts, the little
+puffing motor-boats plying to and fro--all serve to make a distinctive
+picture. On another canal-side the fish-market is held every morning. A
+Danish fish-market is not a bit like other fish-markets, for the Dane
+must buy his fish alive, and the canal makes this possible. The
+fishing-smacks line up the whole side of the quay; these have perforated
+wooden boat-shaped tanks dragging behind them containing the lively
+fish. The market-women sit on the quay, surrounded by wooden tubs, which
+are half-filled with water, containing the unfortunate fish. A
+trestle-table, on which the fish are killed and cleaned, completes the
+equipment of the fish-wives. The customers scrutinize the contents of
+the tub, choose a fish as best they can from the leaping, gasping
+multitude, and its fate is sealed. When the market-women require more
+fish, the perforated tank is raised from the canal, and the fish
+extracted with a landing-net and deposited in their tubs. Small fish
+only can be kept alive in tanks and tubs; the larger kinds, such as cod,
+are killed and sold in the ordinary way. This market is not at all a
+pleasant sight, so it is better to turn our backs on it, and pass on to
+the fragrant flower-market.
+
+Here the famous Amager women expose their merchandise. This market
+square is a gay spectacle, for the Dane is fond of flowers, and the
+Amager wife knows how to display her bright blooms to advantage. These
+vendors are notable characters. They are the descendants of the Dutch
+gardeners brought over by Christian II. to grow fruit and vegetables for
+Copenhagen, and settled on the fertile island of Amager which abuts on
+the city. Every morning these Amager peasants may be seen driving their
+laden carts across the bridge which joins their island to the mainland.
+These genial, stout, but sometimes testy Amager wives have it all their
+own way in the market-place, and are clever in attracting and befooling
+a customer. So it has become a saying, if you look sceptical about what
+you are told, the "story-teller" will say, "Ask Amager mother!" which
+means, "Believe as much as you like." These women still wear their
+quaint costume: bulky petticoats, clean checked apron, shoulder-shawl,
+and poke-bonnets with white kerchief over them; and the merry twinkle of
+satisfaction in the old face when a good bargain has been completed
+against the customer's inclination is quite amusing. These interesting
+old characters are easily irritated, and this the little Copenhageners
+know full well. When stalls are being packed for departure, a naughty
+band of urchins will appear round the corner and call out:
+
+ "Amager mother, Amager mo'er,
+ Give us carrots from your store;
+ You are so stout and roundabout,
+ Please tell us if you find the door
+ Too small to let you through!"
+
+The Amager wife's wrath is soon roused, and she is often foolish enough
+to try and move her bulky proportions somewhat quicker than usual in
+order to catch the boys. This of course she never manages to do, for
+they dart away in all directions. By this means the Amager woman gets a
+little much-needed exercise, the boys a great deal of amusement.
+
+[Illustration: THE FLOWER MARKET, COPENHAGEN.]
+
+Sunday is a fête-day in Copenhagen, and the Dane feels no obligation to
+attend a Church service before starting out on his Sunday expedition. A
+day of leisure means a day of pleasure to the Copenhagener. The State
+helps and encourages him by having cheap fares, and good but inexpensive
+performances at the theatre and places of entertainment on Sunday. Even
+the poorest people manage to spare money for this periodical outing,
+mother and children taking their full share in the simple pleasures of
+the day. The Copenhagener looks forward to this weekly entertainment,
+and longs for the fresh air. This is not surprising, for many homes are
+stuffy, ventilation and open windows not seeming a necessity. A fine
+summer Sunday morning sees a leisurely stream of people--the Danes never
+hurry themselves--making for tram, train, or motor-boat, which will
+carry them off to the beautiful woods and shores lying beyond the city.
+Basking in the sunshine, or enjoying a stroll through the woods,
+feasting on the contents of their picnic baskets, with a cup of coffee
+or glass of pilsener at a café where music is always going on, they
+spend a thoroughly happy day. In the evening the tired but still joyous
+throng return home, all the better for the simple and pleasant outing.
+No country uses the bicycle more than Denmark, and Sunday is the day
+when it is used most. For the people who prefer to take their dinner at
+home on Sunday there is the pleasant stroll along the celebrated
+Langelinie. This famous promenade, made upon the old ramparts,
+overlooks the Sound with its innumerable yachts skimming over the blue
+water, and is a delightful place for pedestrians. A walk round the moat
+of the Citadel, on the waters of which the children sail their little
+boats, is also enjoyable. This Citadel, now used as barracks, was built
+by Frederik III. in 1663, and formerly served as a political prison.
+Struensee, the notorious Prime Minister, was imprisoned here and
+beheaded for treason. A few narrow, picturesque streets surrounding this
+fort are all that remain of old Copenhagen.
+
+The art treasures contained in the museums of Copenhagen being renowned,
+I must tell you a little about them. Two or three of the palaces not now
+required by the Royal Family are used to store some of these treasures.
+Rosenborg Castle, built by Christian IV., and in which he died, contains
+a collection of family treasures belonging to the Oldenburg dynasty.
+This historical collection of these art-loving Kings is always open to
+the public. Besides Thorvaldsen's Museum, which contains the greater
+portion of his works, there is the Carlsberg Glyptotek, which contains
+the most beautiful sculpture of the French School outside France. The
+Danish Folk-Museum is another interesting collection. This illustrates
+the life and customs of citizens and peasants from the seventeenth
+century to the present day, partly by single objects, and partly by
+representations of their dwellings. The "Kunstmusæet" contains a superb
+collection of pictures, sculpture, engravings, and national relics.
+Here a table may be seen which formerly stood in Christian II.'s prison.
+History tells how the unhappy King was wont to pace round this table for
+hours taking his daily exercise, leaning upon his hand, which in time
+ploughed a groove in its hard surface. The Amalienborg, a fine
+tessellated square, contains four Royal palaces, in one of which our
+Queen Alexandra spent her girlhood. From the windows of these palaces
+the daily spectacle of changing the guard is witnessed by the King and
+young Princes.
+
+Copenhagen is celebrated for its palaces, its parks, porcelain,
+statuary, art-treasures, and last, but not least, its gaiety.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+HANS CHRISTIAN ANDERSEN, THE "FAIRY TALE" OF HIS LIFE
+
+
+I suppose the Dane best known to English boys and girls is Hans
+Christian Andersen, whose charming fairy-tales are well known and loved
+by them all. Most of you, however, know little about his life, but are
+interested enough in him, I dare say, to wish to learn more, especially
+as the knowledge will give you keener delight--if that is possible--in
+reading the works of this "Prince of Story-tellers."
+
+Andersen himself said: "My life has been so wonderful and so like a
+fairy-tale, that I think I had a fairy godmother who granted my every
+wish, for if I had chosen my own life's way, I could not have chosen
+better."
+
+Hans C. Andersen was the son of a poor shoemaker, an only child, born in
+Odense, the capital of the Island of Funen. His parents were devoted to
+him, and his father, who was of a studious turn of mind, delighted in
+teaching his little son and interesting him in Nature. Very early in
+life Hans was taken for long Sunday rambles, his father pointing out to
+him the beauties of woods and meadows, or enchanting him with stories
+from the "Arabian Nights."
+
+At home the evenings were spent in dressing puppets for his favourite
+show, or else, sitting on his father's knee, he listened while the
+latter read aloud to his mother scenes from Holberg's plays. All day
+Hans played with his puppet theatre, and soon began to imagine plays and
+characters for the dolls, writing out programmes for them as soon as he
+was able. Occasionally his grandmother would come and take the child to
+play in the garden of the big house where she lived in the gardener's
+lodge. These were red-letter days for little Hans, as he loved his
+granny and enjoyed most thoroughly the pleasant garden and pretty
+flowers.
+
+The boy's first great trouble came when his father caught a fever and
+died, leaving his mother without any means of support. To keep the
+little home together his mother went out washing for her neighbours,
+leaving little Hans to take care of himself. Being left to his own
+devices, Hans developed his theatrical tendencies by constructing
+costumes for his puppets, and making them perform his plays on the stage
+of his toy theatre. Soon he varied this employment by reading plays and
+also writing some himself. His mother, though secretly rejoicing in her
+son's talent, soon saw the necessity for his doing something more
+practical with his time and assisting her to keep the home together. So
+at twelve years of age Hans was sent to a cloth-weaving factory, where
+he earned a small weekly wage. The weavers soon discovered that Hans
+could sing, and the men frequently made him amuse them, while the other
+boys were made to do his work. One day the weavers played a coarse
+practical joke on poor sensitive Hans, which sent him flying home in
+such deep distress that his mother said he should not again return to
+the factory.
+
+Hans was now sent to the parish school for a few hours daily, and his
+spare time was taken up with his "peep-show" and in fashioning smart
+clothes for his puppets. His mother intended to apprentice her son to
+the tailoring, but Hans had fully made up his mind to become an actor
+and seek his fortune in Copenhagen. After his Confirmation--on which
+great occasion he wore his father's coat and his first new boots--his
+mother insisted on his being apprenticed without further delay. With
+difficulty he finally succeeded in persuading her to let him start for
+the capital with his few savings. His mother had married again, so could
+not accompany him; therefore, with reluctance and with many injunctions
+to return at once if all did not turn out well, she let him go.
+Accompanying him to the town gate, they passed a gipsy on the way, who,
+on being asked what fortune she could prophesy for the poor lad, said he
+would return a great man, and his native place would be illuminated and
+decorated in his honour!
+
+Hans arrived in Copenhagen on September 5, a date which he considered
+lucky for ever after. A few days in the city soon saw an end to his
+money. He applied and got work at a carpenter's shop, but was driven
+away by the coarseness of his fellow-workers. Hans made a friend of the
+porter at the stage-door of the theatre, and begged for some employment
+in the theatre; so occasionally he was allowed to walk across the stage
+in a crowd, but obtained scanty remuneration, and the lad was often
+hungry. Starving and destitute, the happy idea occurred to our hero to
+try and earn something by his voice. He applied to Siboni, the Director
+of the Music School, and was admitted to his presence whilst the latter
+was at dinner. Fortunately for Hans, Baggersen the poet and Weyse the
+celebrated composer were of the party, so for their amusement the boy
+was asked to sing and recite. Weyse was so struck by the quality of his
+voice and Baggersen with his poetic feeling, that they made a collection
+among them there and then for him, and Siboni undertook to train his
+voice. Unfortunately, in six months' time his voice gave way, and Siboni
+counselled him to learn a trade. Hans returned to the theatre in the
+hope of employment, and his persistence finally gained him a place in a
+market scene. Making a friend of the son of the librarian, he obtained
+permission to read at the library, and he wrote tragedies and plays,
+some of which he took to the director of the theatre. This man became
+Andersen's friend for life, for the grains of gold which he saw in his
+work, marred though it was by want of education, roused his interest.
+The director brought Andersen to the notice of the King, and he was sent
+to the Latin school, where he took his place--although now a grown
+man--among the boys in the lowest class but one. The master's tongue was
+sharp, and the sensitive youth was dismayed by his own ignorance. The
+kindness and sympathetic encouragement of the director was the only
+brightness of this period of Hans' life. University life followed that
+of school, and Andersen took a good degree. He now wrote a play, which
+was accepted and produced at the theatre with such success that he wept
+for joy. Soon his poems were published, and happiness and prosperity
+followed. Later the King granted him a travelling stipend, of forty-five
+pounds a year, and travelling became his greatest pleasure. Andersen
+visited England two or three times, and reckoned Charles Dickens among
+his friends. He was the honoured guest of Kings and Princes, and the
+Royal Family of Denmark treated him as a personal friend.
+
+Though his "Fairy Tales" are the best known of his writings, he wrote
+successful novels, dramas and poems. Andersen's tastes were simple, and
+his child-like, affectionate nature made him much beloved by all. His
+native town, which he left as a poor boy, was illuminated and decorated
+to welcome his return. Thus the gipsy's prophecy came true. He died
+after the public celebration of his seventieth birthday, leaving all his
+fortune to the family of his beloved benefactor, the director of the
+theatre. A beautiful bronze monument is erected to his memory in the
+children's garden of the King's Park, Copenhagen. Here the little Danes
+have ever a gentle reminder of their great friend, Hans C. Andersen, who
+felt--to use his own words--"like a poor boy who had had a King's mantle
+thrown over him."
+
+[Illustration: DRAGÖR PEASANT.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+FAMOUS DANES
+
+
+Bertel Thorvaldsen (1770-1844), the famous Danish sculptor, was born in
+Copenhagen. His father was an Icelander, his mother a Dane, and both
+very poor. Bertel's ambition when a little boy was to work his mother's
+spinning-wheel, which, of course, he was never permitted to do. One
+bright, moonlight night his parents were awakened by a soft, whirring
+sound, and found their little son enjoying his realized ambition. In the
+moonlit room he had successfully started the wheel and begun to spin,
+much to his parents' astonishment. This was the beginning of his
+creative genius, but many years went over his youthful head before he
+created the works which made him famous. His father carved wooden
+figure-heads for ships, and intended his son to follow the same calling.
+Bertel, however, soon showed talent and inclination for something
+better, and was sent to the Free School of the Art Academy, there making
+great progress. He received very little education beyond what the Art
+School gave him, and his youthful days were hard and poverty-stricken.
+When his hours at the Academy were over he went from house to house
+trying to sell his models, and in this way eked out a scanty living. In
+spite of his poverty he was wholly satisfied, for his wants were few.
+His dog and his pipe, both necessities for happiness, accompanied him in
+all his wanderings.
+
+His true artistic career only began in earnest when he won a travelling
+scholarship and went to Rome, where he arrived on his twenty-seventh
+birthday. Stimulated to do his best by the many beautiful works of art
+which surrounded him, he found production easy, and the classical beauty
+of the Roman school appealed to him. Regretting his wasted years, he set
+to work in great earnest, and during the rest of his life produced a
+marvellous amount of beautiful work. A rich Scotsman bought his first
+important work, and the money thus obtained was the means of starting
+him firmly on his upward career. This highly talented Dane founded the
+famous Sculpture School of Denmark, which is of world-wide reputation.
+Thorvaldsen's beautiful designs--which were mainly classical--were
+conceived with great rapidity, and his pupils carried many of them out,
+becoming celebrated sculptors also. Dying suddenly in 1844, while seated
+in the stalls of the theatre watching the play, his loss was a national
+calamity. He bequeathed all his works to the nation, and these now form
+the famous Thorvaldsen Museum, which attracts the artistic-loving people
+of all nations to the city of Copenhagen.
+
+In the courtyard of this museum lies the great man's simple grave, his
+beautiful works being contained in the building which surrounds it.
+
+At the top of this Etruscan tomb stands a fine bronze allegorical
+group--the Goddess of Victory in her car, drawn by prancing
+horses--fitting memorial to this greatest of northern sculptors.
+
+Holger Drachmann was the son of a physician, and quite early in life
+became a man of letters. Following the profession of an artist, he
+became a very good marine painter. This poet loved the sea in all its
+moods, and was never happier than when at Skagen--the extreme northern
+point of Jutland--where he spent most of his summers. His painting was
+his favourite pastime, but poetry the serious work of his life. He was a
+very prolific writer, not only of verse and lyrical poems, but of plays
+and prose works, and was a very successful playwright. Drachmann's
+personality was a strong one, though not always agreeable to his
+countrymen. He had a freedom-loving spirit, and lived every moment of
+his life. Some of his best poems are about the Skaw fishermen, and later
+in life he settled down among them, dying at Skagen in 1907. He was a
+picturesque figure, with white flowing locks, erratic and unpractical,
+as poets often are. Like other famous Danes, he chose a unique
+burial-place. Away at Grenen, in the sand-dunes, overlooking the
+fighting waters of the Skagerack and Cattegat, stands his
+cromlech-shaped tomb, near the roar of the sea he loved so much, where
+time and sand will soon obliterate all that remains of the Byron of
+Denmark.
+
+Nikolai Frederik Grundtvig, the founder of the popular high-schools for
+peasants, was born at his father's parsonage, Udby, South Seeland. He
+was sent to school in Jutland, and soon learned to love his wild native
+moors. While attending the Latin School in Aarhus he made friends with
+an old shoemaker, who used to tell him interesting stories of the old
+Norse heroes and sagas, often repeating the old Danish folk-songs. The
+lad being a true Dane, a descendant of the old vikings, he soon became
+very interested in the history of his race. Being sent to the University
+of Copenhagen, he chose to study Icelandic in order to read the ancient
+sagas, English to read Shakespeare, and German to read Goethe. This
+studious youth was most patriotic, and the poetry of his country
+appealed to him especially. Øehlenschläger's (a Danish poet) works fired
+his poetical imagination.
+
+Grundtvig's poems were for the people, the beloved Jutland moors and
+Nature generally his theme. His songs and poems are loved by the
+peasants, and used at all their festivals. He wrote songs "that would
+make bare legs skip at sound of them," and, "like a bird in the
+greenwood, he would sing for the country-folk." So successfully did he
+write these folk-songs, that "bare legs" do skip at the sound of them
+even to-day at every festivity. He was an educational enthusiast, and
+his high-schools are peculiar to Denmark. It is owing to these that the
+country possesses such a splendid band of peasant farmers. Being a
+priest, he was given the honorary title of Bishop, and founded a sect
+called "Grundtvigianere."
+
+This noble man died in 1872, over ninety years of age, working and
+preaching till the last, his deep-set eyes, flowing white hair and
+beard, making him look like Moses of old.
+
+Adam Øehlenschläger, the greatest Danish dramatist and poet, was a
+Professor at the University of Copenhagen, and a marvellously gifted
+man. He developed and gave character to Danish literature, and is known
+as the "Goethe of the North." Some of his finest tragedies have been
+translated into English. These have a distinctly northern ring about
+them, dealing as they do with the legends and sagas of the Scandinavian
+people. These tragedies of the mythical heroes of Scandinavia, the
+history of their race, and, indeed, all the works of this king of
+northern poets, are greatly loved by all Scandinavians. Every young Dane
+delights in Øehlenschläger as we do in Shakespeare, and by reading his
+works the youths of Denmark lay the foundation of their education in
+poetry. This bard was crowned Laureate in Lund (Sweden) by the greatest
+of Swedish poets, Esaias Tegner, 1829. Buried by his own request at his
+birth-place, Frederiksberg, two Danish miles (which means eight English
+miles) from Copenhagen, his loving countrymen insisted on carrying him
+the whole distance, so great was their admiration for this King of
+dramatists.
+
+Niels Ryberg Finsen, whose name I am sure you have heard because his
+scientific research gave us the "light-cure"--which has been established
+at the London Hospital by our Queen Alexandra, who generously gave the
+costly apparatus required for the cure in order to benefit afflicted
+English people--was born at Thorshavn, the capital of the Faroe Islands.
+These islands are under Denmark, and lie north of the Shetlands. His
+father was magistrate there. His parents were Icelanders. At twelve
+years of age Niels was sent to school in Denmark, and after a few years
+at the Grammar School of Herlufholm, he returned to his parents, who
+were now stationed in their native town, Reykjavik, the capital of
+Iceland. Niels continued his studies there, and when old enough returned
+to Denmark to commence his medical work at the University of Copenhagen.
+
+Hitherto he had shown no particular aptitude, but in his medical work he
+soon distinguished himself, and his skill gained him a place in the
+laboratory. He now began to study the effect of light as a curative
+remedy. All his life Finsen thought the sunlight the most beautiful
+thing in the world--perhaps because he saw so little of it in his
+childhood. He had watched its wonderful effect on all living things,
+being much impressed by the transformation caused in nature by the warm
+life-giving rays. With observations on lizards, which he found
+charmingly responsive to sun effects, he accidentally made his
+discovery, and gave to the world this famous remedy for diseases of the
+skin, which has relieved thousands of sufferers of all nations.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+LEGENDARY LORE AND FOLK DANCES
+
+
+The legend of Holger Danske, who is to be Denmark's deliverer when heavy
+troubles come upon her, is one which has its counterpart in other
+countries, resembling that of our own King Arthur and the German
+Frederick Barbarossa. When Denmark's necessity demands, Holger Danske
+will come to her aid; till then he sits "in the deep dark cellar of
+Kronborg Castle, into which none may enter. He is clad in iron and
+steel, and rests his head on his strong arms; his long beard hangs down
+upon the marble table, into which it has become firmly rooted; he sleeps
+and dreams. But in his dreams he sees all that happens in Denmark. On
+each Christmas Eve an angel comes to him and tells him all he has
+dreamed is true, and that he may sleep again in peace, as Denmark is not
+yet in real danger. But should danger ever come, then Holger Danske will
+rouse himself, and the table will burst asunder as he draws out his
+beard. Then he will come forth in all his strength, and strike a blow
+that shall sound in all the countries of the world."
+
+Holger Danske was the son of the Danish King Gotrick. While he was a
+youth his father sent him to Carolus Magnus, whom he served during all
+his wars. Thus he came to India, where he ate a fruit which made his
+body imperishable. When Denmark is near ruin, and all her young men have
+been slain in defending her, then Holger Danske will appear, and,
+gathering round him all the young boys and aged men, will lead them on
+to victory, routing the enemy, and thus saving the country. When a
+little plant growing in the Lake of Viborg has become a tree, so large
+that you can tie your horse to it, then the time draws near when all
+this will happen.
+
+Once upon a time the Danes were in great trouble, for they had no King.
+But one day they saw a barque, splendidly decked, sailing towards the
+coast of Denmark. As the ship came nearer the shore they saw it was
+laden with quantities of gold and weapons, but not a soul was to be seen
+on board. When the Danes boarded the ship, they found a little boy lying
+asleep on the deck, and above his head floated a golden banner. Thinking
+that their god Odin had sent the boy, they brought him ashore and
+proclaimed him King. They named him Skjold, and he became a great and
+good King. His fame was such that the Danish Kings to this day are
+called "Skjoldunger." When this King died, his body was placed on board
+a ship which was loaded with treasure; and when it sailed slowly away
+over the blue water, the Danes stood on the shore looking after it with
+sorrow. What became of the ship no one ever knew.
+
+Denmark is rich in legends. There is the legend about the "Danebrog,"
+Denmark's national flag, which is a white cross on a crimson ground.
+This bright and beautiful flag looks thoroughly at home whatever its
+surroundings. The story goes that when Valdemar Seir (the Victorious)
+descended on the shores of Esthonia to help the knights who were hard
+pressed in a battle with the heathen Esthonians (1219), a miracle befell
+him. The valour of his troops soon made an impression on the pagans, and
+they began to sue for peace. It was granted, and the priests baptized
+the supposed converts. Very soon, however, the Esthonians, who had been
+secretly reinforcing while pretending submission, in order to throw dust
+in the eyes of the too confiding Danes, brought up their forces and
+commenced fighting anew. "It was the eve of St. Vitus, and the Danes
+were singing Vespers in camp, when suddenly a wild howl rang through the
+summer evening, and the heathens poured out of the woods, attacked the
+surprised Danes on all sides, and quickly thinned their ranks. The Danes
+began to waver, but the Prince of Rugen, who was stationed on the hill,
+had time to rally his followers and stay the progress of the enemy. It
+was a terrible battle. The Archbishop Andreas Sunesen with his priests
+mounted the hill to lay the sword of prayer in the scales of battle; the
+Danes rallied, and their swords were not blunt when they turned upon
+their enemies. Whilst the Archbishop and others prayed, the Danes were
+triumphant; but when his arms fell to his side through sheer weariness,
+the heathens prevailed. Then the priests supported the aged man's arms,
+who, like Moses of old, supplicated for his people with extended hands.
+The battle was still raging, and the banner of the Danes had been lost
+in the fight. As the prayers continued the miracle happened. A red
+banner, with the Holy Cross in white upon it, came floating gently down
+from the heavens, and a voice was heard saying, 'When this sign is borne
+on high you shall conquer.' The tide of battle turned, the Christians
+gathered themselves together under the banner of the Cross, and the
+heathens were filled with fear and fled. Then the Danes knelt down on
+the battle-field and praised God, while King Valdemar drew his sword,
+and for the first time under the folds of the Danebrog dubbed
+five-and-thirty of the bravest heroes knights." Another legend tells the
+fate of a wicked Queen of Denmark, Gunhild by name. This Queen was first
+the consort of a Norwegian monarch, who, finding her more than he or his
+people could stand, thrust her out of his kingdom. She made her way to
+Denmark, and soon after married the Danish King. Though beautiful, Queen
+Gunhild's pride and arrogance made her hateful to her new subjects, and
+her attendants watched their opportunity to rid themselves of such an
+obnoxious mistress. The time came for them when the Queen was travelling
+through Jutland. A sign was given to her bearers, whilst journeying
+through the marshes near Vejle, to drop her down into the bog. This was
+done, and a stake driven through her body. To-day in the church at Vejle
+a body lies enclosed in a glass coffin, with a stake lying beside it,
+the teeth and long black hair being in excellent preservation. This body
+was found in 1821, when the marshes near Vejle were being drained for
+cultivation. The stake was found through it, thus giving colour to the
+tradition. Poor Queen! lost in the eleventh century and found in the
+nineteenth.
+
+
+_Folk-dancers._
+
+The Danes, like all the Scandinavians, are renowned for their love of
+dancing. Lately they have revived the beautiful old folk-dances,
+realizing at last the necessity of keeping the ancient costumes, dances
+and songs before the people, if they would not have them completely
+wiped out. A few patriotic Danes have formed a society of ladies and
+gentlemen to bring about this revival. These are called the
+folk-dancers, their object being to stimulate the love of old-time
+Denmark in the modern Dane, by showing him the dance, accompanied by
+folk-song, which his forefathers delighted in. Old-time ways the Dane of
+to-day is perhaps a little too ready to forget, but dance and song
+appeal to his northern nature. The beautiful old costumes of the Danish
+peasants have almost entirely disappeared, but those worn by the
+folk-dancers are facsimiles of the costumes formerly worn in the
+districts they represent. These costumes, with heavy gold embroidery,
+curious hats, or pretty velvet caps, weighty with silver lace, must have
+been a great addition to local colouring. The men also wore a gay dress,
+and it is to be regretted that these old costumes have disappeared from
+the villages and islands of Denmark.
+
+In olden times the voice was the principal accompaniment of the dance,
+and these folk-lorists generally sing while dancing; but occasionally a
+fiddler or flautist plays for them, and becomes the leader in the dance.
+Some of these dances are of a comical nature, and no doubt were invented
+to parody the shortcomings of some local character. Others represent
+local industries. A pretty dance is "Voeve Vadmel" (cloth-weaving). In
+this some dancers become the bobbins, others form the warp and woof;
+thus they go in and out, weaving themselves into an imaginary piece of
+cloth. Then, rolling themselves into a bale, they stand a moment,
+unwind, reverse, and then disperse. This dance is accompanied by the
+voices of the dancers, who, as they sing, describe each movement of the
+dance. A very curious dance is called "Seven Springs," and its principal
+figure is a series of springs from the floor, executed by the lady,
+aided by her partner. Another two are called respectively the "Men's
+Pleasure" and the "Girls' Pleasure." In these both men and girls choose
+their own partners, and coquet with them by alluring facial expressions
+during the dance. The "Tinker's Dance" is a solo dance for a man, which
+is descriptive and amusing; while the "Degnedans" is more an amusing
+performance in pantomime than a dance, executed by two men. Many more
+than I can tell you about have been revived by the folk-dancers, who
+take a keen delight in discovering and learning them. They are
+entertaining and instructive to the looker-on, and a healthy, though
+fatiguing, amusement for the dancers.
+
+In the Faroe Islands the old-time way is still in vogue, and the dance
+is only accompanied by the voice and clapping of hands. Thus do these
+descendants of the old vikings keep high festival to celebrate a good
+"catch" of whales.
+
+The old folk-songs, which were sung by the people when dancing and at
+other times, have a national value which the Danes fully realize, many
+being written down and treasured in the country's archives.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+MANNERS AND CUSTOMS
+
+
+The Danes being a polite and well-mannered race, the children are early
+taught to tender thanks for little pleasures, and this they do in a
+pretty way by thrusting out their tiny hands and saying, "Tak" (Thank
+you). It is the Danish custom to greet everybody, including the
+servants, with "Good-morning," and always on entering a shop you give
+greeting, and say farewell on leaving. In the market-place it is the
+same; also the children, when leaving school, raise their caps to the
+teacher and call out, "Farvel! farvel!" In the majority of houses when
+the people rise from the table they say, "Tak for Mad"[1] to the host,
+who replies, "Velbekomme."[2] The children kiss their parents and say
+the same, while the parents often kiss each other and say, "Velbekomme."
+The Danes are rather too eager to wipe out old customs, and in
+Copenhagen the fashionable people ignore this pretty ceremony. The
+majority, however, feel uncomfortable if not allowed to thank their host
+or hostess for their food.
+
+[Illustration: CHILDREN'S DAY.]
+
+A Danish lady, about to visit England for the first time, was told
+that here it was customary to say "Grace" after meals. The surprise of
+the English host may be imagined when his Danish guest, on rising from
+the table, solemnly put out her hand and murmured the word "Grace!"
+After a day or two, when this ceremony had been most dutifully performed
+after every meal, the Englishman thought he had better ask for an
+explanation. This was given, and the young Dane joined heartily in the
+laugh against herself!
+
+The Danes begin their day with a light breakfast of coffee, fresh rolls,
+and butter, but the children generally have porridge, or "öllebröd,"
+before starting for school. This distinctly Danish dish is made of
+rye-bread, beer, milk, cream, and sometimes with the addition of a
+beaten-up egg. This "Ske-Mad"[3] is very sustaining, but I fear would
+prove a little too much for those unaccustomed to it. Øllebröd also is
+the favourite Saturday supper-dish of the working-classes, with the
+addition of salt herrings and slices of raw onion, which doubtless
+renders it more piquant.
+
+At noon "Mid-dag"[4] is served. Another peculiar delicacy common both to
+this meal and supper is "Smörrebröd," a "variety" sandwich consisting of
+a slice of bread and butter covered with sausage, ham, fish, meat,
+cheese, etc. making a tempting display, not hidden as in our sandwich by
+a top layer of bread. The Danes are very hospitable, and often invite
+poor students to dine with them regularly once a week. Dinner consists
+of excellent soup (in summer made of fruit or preserves), meat, pudding
+or fruit, and cream, and even the poorest have coffee after this meal.
+
+Prunes, stewed plums or apples, and sometimes cranberry jam, are always
+served with the meat or game course, together with excellent but rather
+rich sauce. The Danish housewife prides herself on the latter, as her
+cooking abilities are often judged by the quality of her sauces. It is
+quite usual for the Danish ladies to spend some months in learning
+cooking and housekeeping in a large establishment to complete their
+education.
+
+"Vær saa god"[5] says the maid or waiter when handing you anything, and
+this formula is repeated by everyone when they wish you to enter a room,
+or, in fact, to do anything.
+
+Birthdays and other anniversaries are much thought of in Denmark. The
+"Födelsdagsbarn"[6] is generally given pretty bouquets or pots of
+flowers, as well as presents. Flowers are used on every joyous occasion.
+Students, both men and women, may be seen almost covered with bright
+nosegays, given by their friends to celebrate any examination
+successfully passed.
+
+Christmas Eve, and not Christmas Day, is the festive occasion in
+Denmark. Everybody, including the poorest, must have a Christmas-tree,
+and roast goose, apple-cake, rice porridge with an almond in it, form
+the banquet. The lucky person who finds the almond receives an extra
+present, and much mirth is occasioned by the search. The tree is lighted
+at dusk, and the children dance round it and sing. This performance
+opens the festivities; then the presents are given, dinner served, and
+afterwards the young people dance.
+
+Christmas Day is kept quietly, but the day after (St. Stephen's Day) is
+one of merriment and gaiety, when the people go from house to house to
+greet their friends and "skaal" with them.
+
+New Year's Eve brings a masque ball for the young folk, a supper,
+fireworks, and at midnight a clinking of glasses, when healths are drunk
+in hot punch.
+
+On Midsummer's Night fires are lighted all over the country, and people
+gather together to watch the burning of the tar-barrels. Near a lake or
+on the seashore the reflections glinting on the water make a strangely
+brilliant sight. On some of the fjords a water carnival makes a pretty
+addition to these fires, which the children are told have been lighted
+to scare the witches!
+
+The Monday before Lent is a holiday in all the schools. Early in the
+morning the children, provided with decorated sticks, "fastelavns Ris,"
+rouse their parents and others from slumber. All who are found asleep
+after a certain time must pay a forfeit of Lenten buns. Later in the day
+the children dress themselves up in comical costume and parade the
+streets, asking money from the passer-by as our children do on Guy
+Fawkes' Day.
+
+A holy-day peculiar to Denmark is called "Store-Bededag" (Great Day of
+Prayer), on the eve of which (Danes keep eves of festivals only) the
+church bells ring and the people promenade in their best clothes.
+"Store-Bededag" is the fourth Friday after Easter, and all business is
+at a standstill, so that the people can attend church. On Whit-Sunday
+some of the young folks rise early to see the sun dance on the water and
+wash their faces in the dew. This is in preparation for the greatest
+holiday in the year, Whit-Monday, when all give themselves up to outdoor
+pleasure.
+
+"Grundlovsdag," which is kept in commemoration of the granting of a free
+Constitution to the nation by Frederik VII., gives the town bands and
+trade-unions an opportunity to parade the streets and display their
+capability in playing national music. "Children's Day" is a school
+holiday, and the children dress in the old picturesque Danish costumes;
+they then go about the town and market-places begging alms for the
+sanatoriums in their collecting-boxes. In this way a large sum is
+collected for these charities.
+
+"Knocking-the-cat-out-of-the-barrel" is an old custom of the peasantry
+which takes place the Monday before Lent. The young men dress themselves
+gaily, and, armed with wooden clubs, hie them to the village green. Here
+a barrel is suspended with a cat inside it. Each man knocks the barrel
+with his club as he runs underneath it, and he who knocks a hole big
+enough to liberate poor puss is the victor. The grotesque costumes, the
+difficulty of stooping and running under the barrel in them, when all
+your energies and attention are required for the blow, result in many a
+comical catastrophe, which the bystanders enjoy heartily. Puss is
+frightened, but not hurt, and I think it would be just as amusing
+without the cat, but the Danish peasants think otherwise. Another
+pastime which takes place on the same day is called "ring-riding." The
+men, wearing paper hats and gay ribbons, gallop round the course, trying
+to snatch a suspended ring in passing. The man who takes the ring three
+times in succession is called "King," he who takes it twice "Prince."
+When the sport is over, King and Prince, with their train of
+unsuccessful competitors, ride round to the farms and demand refreshment
+for their gay cavalcade, of which "Æleskiver," a peasant delicacy,
+washed down by a glass of aqua-vitæ, forms a part.
+
+On the eve of "Valborg's Dag" (May-Day) bonfires are lighted, and the
+young Danes have a dinner and dance given to them. Each dance is so long
+that it is customary for the young men to change their partners two or
+three times during the waltz.
+
+A beautiful custom is still preserved among the older peasantry: when
+they cross the threshold of their neighbour's house they say, "God's
+peace be in this house."
+
+All domestic servants, students, and other people who reside away from
+home for a time, take about with them a chest of drawers as well as a
+trunk. I suppose they find this necessary, because in Denmark a chest of
+drawers is seldom provided in a bedroom.
+
+When the first snowdrops appear, the boys and girls gather some and
+enclose them in a piece of paper, on which is written a poem. This
+"Vintergække-Brev," which they post to their friends, is signed by
+ink-spots, as numerous as the letters in their name. The friend must
+guess the name of the sender within a week, or the latter demands a
+gift.
+
+Confirmation means coming-out in Denmark. As this is the greatest
+festival of youth, the young folk are loaded with presents; then girls
+put up their hair and boys begin to smoke.
+
+The marriage of a daughter is an expensive affair for parents in
+Denmark, as they are supposed to find all the home for the bride, as
+well as the trousseau. The wedding-ring is worn by both while engaged,
+as well as after the marriage ceremony.
+
+The Epiphany is celebrated in many homes by the burning of three
+candles, and the children are given a holiday on this, the festival of
+the Three Kings. No doubt you know this is a commemoration of the three
+wise men of the East presenting their offerings of gold, frankincense,
+and myrrh to our Lord.
+
+Storks are considered the sacred birds of Denmark. These harbingers of
+good-luck the children take great interest in, and more especially in
+the growth of the stork family on the roof-tree.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND--I
+
+
+Jutland is the only province left to Denmark which can claim to be
+mainland, and though it is the most northern part of the country, some
+of its scenery is very beautiful.
+
+The "Jyde," as the people of Jutland are called, are proud of their
+birthplace, of their language, and of their pronunciation, which the
+Copenhageners call "accent," but the Jyde declare they speak the purest
+Danish in the kingdom. However this may be, I am not in a position to
+judge, but I do know that I can understand the Jyde Danish better, and
+that it falls upon my ear with a more pleasing sound than does the
+Danish of the Copenhageners.
+
+The east coast of Jutland is quite charming, so we will start our tour
+from the first interesting spot on this route, and try to obtain a
+glimpse of the country.
+
+In Kolding stands a famous castle, which was partially burnt down in
+1808. This gigantic ruin is now covered in, and used as an historical
+museum for war relics.
+
+Fredericia is a very important place. Here that part of the train which
+contains the goods, luggage, and mails, as well as the first-class
+passenger carriages for Copenhagen, is shunted on to the large steam
+ferry-boat waiting to receive it. This carries it across the smiling
+waters of the Little Belt. A fresh engine then takes it across the
+island of Funen to the steam-ferry waiting to carry it across the Great
+Belt to Korsör, on the shores of Seeland, when a locomotive takes the
+train to Copenhagen in the ordinary way. These steam-ferries are
+peculiar to Denmark, and are specially built and equipped for this work.
+Danish enterprise overcomes the difficulties of transport through a
+kingdom of islands by these ferries.
+
+Fredericia is an old fortified town with mighty city walls, which make a
+fine promenade for the citizens, giving them a charming view of the
+Little Belt's sunlit waters. In this town the Danes won a glorious
+victory over the Prussians in 1849.
+
+Vejle is one of the most picturesque places on the east coast. Along the
+Vejlefjord the tall, straight pines of Jutland are reflected in the
+cool, still depths of blue water, and the tiniest of puffing steamers
+will carry you over to Munkebjerg. The fascinating and famous Munkebjerg
+Forest is very beautiful--a romantic place in which the youthful lovers
+of Denmark delight. These glorious beech woods extend for miles, the
+trees sloping down to the water's edge from a high ridge, whence you
+have a magnificent view of the glittering fjord. Most inviting are
+these cool green shades on a hot summer's day, but when clothed in the
+glowing tints of autumn they present to the eye a feast of gorgeous
+colour. A golden and warm brown carpet of crisp, crackling leaves
+underfoot, the lap of the fjord as a steamer ploughs along, sending the
+water hissing through the bowing reeds which fringe the bank, make the
+soothing sounds which fall on lovers' ears as they wander through these
+pleasant glades.
+
+[Illustration: HARVEST TIME.]
+
+In winter this forest is left to the snow and hoarfrost, and cold, cairn
+beauty holds it fast for many days.
+
+The pretty hotel of Munkebjerg, standing on the summit of the ridge,
+which you espy through a clearing in the trees, is reached by some
+scores of steps from the landing-stage. Patient "Moses," the hotel
+luggage-carrier, awaits the prospective guests at the pier. This
+handsome brown donkey is quite a character, and mounts gaily his own
+private zigzag path leading to the hotel when heavily laden. His
+dejection, however, when returning with empty panniers, is accounted for
+by the circumstance of "No load, no carrot!" at the end of the climb.
+
+Grejsdal is another beautiful spot inland from the fjord, past which the
+primitive local train takes us to Jellinge. In this quaint upland
+village stand the two great barrows, the reputed graves of King Gorm and
+Queen Thyra, his wife, the great-grandparents of Canute the Great, the
+Danish King who ruled over England for twenty years. A beautiful Norman
+church stands between these barrows, and two massive Runic stones tell
+that "Harald the King commanded this memorial to be raised to Gorm, his
+Father, and Thyra, his Mother: the Harald who conquered the whole of
+Denmark and Norway, and Christianized the Danes." Steps lead to the top
+of these grassy barrows, and so large are they that over a thousand men
+can stand at the top. The village children use them as a playground
+occasionally.
+
+Skanderborg, which is prettily situated on a lake, is a celebrated town.
+Here a famous siege took place, in which the valiant Niels Ebbesen fell,
+after freeing his country from the tyrannical rule of the German Count
+Gert.
+
+Aarhus, the capital of Jutland, is the second oldest town in Denmark.
+Its interesting cathedral is the longest in the kingdom, and was built
+in the twelfth century. The town possesses a magnificent harbour, on the
+Cattegat, the shores of which make a pleasant promenade.
+
+Randers is a pretty place, with many quaint thatched houses belonging to
+the sixteenth, seventeenth, and eighteenth centuries. The Gudenaa,
+Denmark's only river, skirts the town. This river is narrow and
+slow-moving, as there are no heights to give it force.
+
+Hobro, situated on a fjord, wears an air of seclusion, lying as it does
+far away from the railway-station. A sail on this fjord will bring us to
+Mariager, the smallest town in Denmark. Renowned are the magnificent
+beech-woods and ancient abbey of this tiny town. In the surroundings we
+have a panoramic view of typical Jutish scenery--a charming landscape in
+the sunset glow, forest, fjord, farmsteads, and moor affording a rich
+variety of still life.
+
+Aalborg, the delightful old market town on the Limfjord, is fascinating,
+especially at night, when its myriad lamps throw long shafts of light
+across the water. Scattered through the town are many old half-timbered
+houses. These beautiful buildings, with their cream-coloured rough-cast
+walls, oak beams, richly carved overhanging eaves, and soft-red tiled
+roofs, show little evidence of the ravages of time. The most famous of
+these houses was built, in the seventeenth century, by Jens Bang, an
+apothecary. The chemist's shop occupies the large ground-floor room, the
+windows of which have appropriate key-stones. On one is carved a man's
+head with swollen face, another with a lolling tongue, and similar
+grotesques.
+
+To be an idler and watch the traffic going to and fro over the pontoon
+bridge which spans the Limfjord is a delightful way of passing the time.
+Warmed by the sun and fanned by the breezes which blow along the fjord,
+you may be amused and interested for hours by the life that streams past
+you. Occasionally the traffic is impeded by the bridge being opened to
+allow the ships to pass through. Small vessels can in this way save time
+and avoid the danger of rounding the north point of Jutland. If you
+look at your map you will see that this fjord cuts through Jutland, thus
+making a short passage from the Cattegat to the North Sea.
+
+Jutland north of the Limfjord is called Vendsyssel. Curious effects of
+mirage may be seen in summer-time in the extensive "Vildmose"[7] of this
+district.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND--II
+
+
+As we pass through Vendsyssel homely farmsteads and windmills add a
+charm to the landscape, while tethered kine and sportive goats complete
+a picture of rural life.
+
+When we arrive at Frederikshavn we come to the end of the State railway.
+This terminus lies close to the port, which is an important place of
+call for the large passenger and cargo steamers bound for Norway and
+other countries, as well as being a refuge for the fishing-fleet.
+
+A slow-moving local train takes us across the sandy wastes to Skagen, a
+straggling village, with the dignity of royal borough, bestowed upon it
+by Queen Margaret, in the fourteenth century, as a reward to the brave
+fishermen who saved from shipwreck some of her kins-folk. Skagen is a
+picturesque and interesting place, the home of many artists, as well as
+a noted seaside resort.
+
+Bröndum's Hotel, a celebrated hostelry, where the majority of visitors
+and artists stay, is a delightfully comfortable, homely dwelling. The
+dining-room, adorned with many specimens of the artists' work, is a
+unique and interesting picture-gallery.
+
+On the outskirts of the town the white tower of the old church of Skagen
+may be seen peeping over the sand-dunes. This "stepped" tower, with its
+red-tiled, saddle-back roof, forms a striking feature in this weird and
+lonely landscape. The church itself is buried beneath the sand, leaving
+only the tower to mark the place that is called the "Pompeii of
+Denmark," sand, not lava, being answerable for this entombment. It is
+said that the village which surrounded the church was buried by a
+sandstorm in the fourteenth century. This scene of desolation, on a
+windy day, when the "sand fiend" revels and riots, is best left to the
+booming surf and avoided by those who do not wish to be blinded.
+
+To the south of Skagen lie other curious phenomena created by this
+"Storm King." The "Raabjerg Miler" are vast and characteristic dunes of
+powdery sand in long ridges, like huge waves petrified in the very act
+of turning over! In the neighbouring quicksands trees have been planted,
+but refuse to grow.
+
+Viborg, the old capital of Jutland, possesses an historically
+interesting cathedral. In the crypt stands the tomb of King Eric
+Glipping, as well as those of other monarchs. The interior of the
+cathedral is decorated with fine frescoes by modern artists.
+
+As we journey to Silkeborg we pass through the vast heathland, "Alhede,"
+and are impressed by the plodding perseverance of the heath-folk. The
+marvellous enterprise of the Danes who started and have so successfully
+carried out the cultivation of these barren tracts of land deserves
+admiration. The convicts are employed in this work, planting, trenching,
+and digging, making this waste land ready for the farmer. These men have
+a cap with a visor-like mask, which can be pulled over the face at will.
+This shields the face from the cold blasts so prevalent on these moors;
+also, it prevents the prying eyes of strangers or fellow-workers.
+
+Many baby forests are being nursed into sturdy growth, as a protection
+for farm-lands from the sand and wind storms.
+
+This monotonous-looking heath is not without beauty; indeed, it has a
+melancholy charm for those who dwell on it. The children love it when
+the heather is in bloom, and spend happy days gathering berries from out
+of the gorgeous purple carpet. The great stacks of peat drying in the
+sun denote that this is the principal fuel of the moor-folk.
+
+From Silkeborg we start to see the Himmelbjerget, the mountain of this
+flat country. It rises to a height of five hundred feet, being the
+highest point in Denmark.
+
+'Tis the joy and pride of the Danes, who select this mountain and lake
+district before all others for their honeymoons!
+
+A curious paddle-boat, worked by hand, or a small motor-boat will take
+us over the lake to the foot of Himmelbjerget. Our motor-boat, with
+fussy throb, carries us away down the narrow river which opens into the
+lake. The life on the banks of the river is very interesting. As we sail
+past the pretty villas, with background of cool, green beech-woods, we
+notice that a Danish garden must always have a summer-house to make it
+complete. In these garden-rooms the Danes take all their meals in
+summer-time. The drooping branches of the beech-trees dip, swish, and
+bend to the swirl of water created by our boat, which makes miniature
+waves leap and run along the bank in a playful way. How delightfully
+peaceful the surrounding landscape is as we skim over the silvery lake
+and then land! The climbing of this mountain does not take long. There
+is a splendid view from the top of Himmelbjerget, for the country lies
+spread out like a map before us. This lake district is very beautiful,
+and when the ling is in full bloom, the heather and forest-clad hills
+encircling the lakes blaze with colour.
+
+At Silkeborg the River Gudenaa flows through the lakes Kundsö and Julsö,
+becoming navigable, but it is only used by small boats and barges for
+transporting wood from the forests. The termination "Sö" means lake,
+while "Aä" means stream. Steen Steensen Blicher, the poet of Jutland,
+has described this scenery, which he loved so much, quite charmingly in
+some of his lyrical poems. He sings:
+
+ "The Danes have their homes where the fair beeches grow,
+ By shores where forget-me-nots cluster."
+
+This poet did much to encourage the home industries of the
+moor-dwellers, being in sympathy with them, as well as with their lonely
+moorlands.
+
+The old-time moor-dwellers' habitations have become an interesting
+museum in Herning. This little mid-Jutland town is in the centre of the
+moors, so its museum contains a unique collection from the homes of
+these sturdy peasants. The amount of delicate needlework these lonely,
+thrifty folks accomplished in the long winter days is surprising. This
+"Hedebo" needlework is the finest stitchery you can well imagine,
+wrought on home-spun linen with flaxen thread. Such marvellous patterns
+and intricate designs! Little wonder that the best examples are
+treasured by the nation. The men of the family wore a white linen smock
+for weddings and great occasions. So thickly are these overwrought with
+needlework that they will stand alone, and seem to have a woman's
+lifetime spent upon them. Needless to say, these family garments were
+handed down as heirlooms from father to son.
+
+Knitting, weaving, the making of Jyde pottery and wooden shoes (which
+all wear), are among the other industries of these people.
+
+As we journey through Skjern and down the west coast to Esbjerg, the end
+of our journey, we notice the picturesque attire of the field-workers.
+An old shepherd, with vivid blue shirt and sleeveless brown coat, with
+white straggling locks streaming over his shoulders, tends his few
+sheep. This clever old man is doing three things at once--minding his
+sheep, smoking his pipe, and knitting a stocking. The Danes are great
+knitters, men and women being equally good at it. Many girls are
+working in the fields, their various coloured garments making bright
+specks on the landscape. Occasionally a bullock-cart slowly drags its
+way across the field-road, laden with clattering milk-cans. We pass
+flourishing farmsteads, with storks' nests on the roofs. The
+father-stork, standing on one leg, keeping guard over his young, looks
+pensively out over the moors, thinking, no doubt, that soon it will not
+be worth his while to come all the way from Egypt to find frogs in the
+marshes! For the indefatigable Dalgas has roused the dilatory Danes to
+such good purpose that soon the marshes and waste lands of Jutland will
+be no more.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+THE PEOPLE'S AMUSEMENTS
+
+
+"Have you been in Tivoli?" is the first question a Copenhagener would
+ask you on your arrival in the gay capital. If not, your Danish friend
+will carry you off to see these beautiful pleasure-gardens. Tivoli is
+for all classes, and is the most popular place of amusement in Denmark.
+This delightful summer resort is the place of all others in which to
+study the jovial side of the Danish character. Even the King and his
+royal visitors occasionally pay visits, incognito, to these fascinating
+gardens, taking their "sixpenn'orth of fun" with the people, whose good
+manners would never allow them to take the slightest notice of their
+monarch when he is enjoying himself in this way. To children Tivoli is
+the ideal Sunday treat. Every taste is catered for at Tivoli, and the
+Saturday classical concerts have become famous, for one of the Danes'
+chief pleasures is good music. Tivoli becomes fairyland when illuminated
+with its myriad lights outlining the buildings and gleaming through the
+trees. The light-hearted gaiety of the Dane is very infectious, and the
+stranger is irresistibly caught by it. The atmosphere of unalloyed
+merriment which pervades when tables are spread under the trees for the
+alfresco supper is distinctly exhilarating. These gardens have
+amusements for the frivolous also, such as switchbacks, pantomimes of
+the "Punch and Judy" kind, and frequently firework displays, which last
+entertainment generally concludes the evening.
+
+The Royal Theatre in Copenhagen is a national school of patriotism, and
+the healthy spirit of its plays has an ennobling effect on the people.
+Everything is Danish here, and Denmark is the only small nation in
+Europe which has successfully founded a national dramatic art. The
+"Molière of the North," Ludwig Holberg, was the father of the Danish
+drama, and the first to make the people realize the beauty of their own
+language. This gifted Dane was a great comedy-writer, and had the
+faculty of making his fellows see the comic side of their follies.
+
+The "Royal Ballet" played at this theatre is quite distinctive.
+Bournonville, its creator, was a poet who expressed himself in motion
+instead of words, and these "dumb poems" appeal strongly to the
+Scandinavian character. This poet aimed at something more than
+spectacular effects upon the people: his art consisted in presenting
+instructive tableaux, which, while holding the attention of his
+audience, taught them their traditional history. The delicate daintiness
+of the Danish ballet everyone must appreciate. The exquisite and
+intricate dances, together with the magnificent tableaux, are
+accompanied by wild and magical music of Danish composition.
+Bournonville ballets represent scenes from classical mythology, as well
+as from ancient Scandinavian history, and the Danish people are much
+attached to this Northern composer of ballet. "Ei blot til Lyst"--Not
+only for pleasure--is the motto over this National Theatre door, and it
+is in the Ballet School here that the young Danes begin their training.
+These young folk take great pleasure in learning the beautiful dances,
+as well as in the operatic and dramatic work which they have to study,
+for they must serve a certain period in this, as in any other
+profession.
+
+Another place of amusement which gives pleasure to many of the poorer
+people is the Working Men's Theatre. Actors, musicians, as well as the
+entire management, are all of the working classes, who are trained in
+the evenings by professionals. The result is quite wonderful, and proves
+the pleasure and interest these working people take in their tuition,
+and how their artistic abilities are developed by it. On Sundays, and
+occasionally in the week, a performance is given, when the working
+classes crowd into the theatre to see their fellows perform. This
+entertainment only costs sixpence for good seats, drama and farce being
+the representations most appreciated. Notwithstanding that smoking is
+prohibited during the performances--a rule which you would think no Dane
+could tolerate, being seldom seen without pipe or cigarette--it is a
+great success, and denotes that their love of the play is greater than
+their pleasure in the weed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+FARM LIFE--BUTTER-MAKING--"HEDESELSKABET"
+
+
+Farming in Denmark is the most important industry of the kingdom, and
+gives employment to half the nation. The peasant is very enlightened and
+advanced in his methods; agricultural and farm products form the
+principal exports of the country. England takes the greater part of this
+produce. Three or four times a week the ships leave Esbjerg--this port
+being the only Danish one not blocked by ice during some part of the
+winter--for the English ports, laden with butter, bacon and eggs for the
+London market. Now, why can the Danish farmer, whose land is poorer and
+his climate more severe than ours, produce so much? Education,
+co-operation and the help given by the State to small farmers lay the
+foundation, so the Danes will tell you, of the farmer's prosperity. The
+thrift and industry of the peasant farmer is quite astonishing. He is
+able to bring up a large, well-educated family and live comfortably on
+seven or eight acres of land; whereas in England we are told that three
+acres will not keep a cow! The Danish farmer makes six acres keep two
+cows, many chickens, some pigs, himself, wife and family, and there is
+never any evidence of poverty on these small farms--quite the reverse.
+The farmer is strong and wiry, his wife fine and buxom, and his children
+sturdy, well-cared-for little urchins. All, however, must work--and work
+very hard--both with head and hands to produce this splendid result. The
+Danish farmer grows a rapid rotation of crops for his animals, manuring
+heavily after each crop, and never allowing his land to lie fallow as we
+do. On these small farms there is practically no grass-land; hedges and
+fences are unnecessary as the animals are always tethered when grazing.
+Omission of hedges is more economical also, making it possible to
+cultivate every inch of land. There is nothing wasted on a Danish farm.
+Many large flourishing farms also exist in Denmark, with acres of both
+meadow and arable land, just as in England; but the peasant farmer is
+the interesting example of the Danish system of legislation. The
+Government helps this small holder by every means in its power to become
+a freehold farmer should he be willing and thrifty enough to try.
+
+The typical Danish farmstead is built in the form of a square, three
+sides of which are occupied by the sheds for the animals, the fourth
+side being the dwelling-house, which is generally connected with the
+sheds by a covered passage--a cosy arrangement for all, as in bad
+weather the farmer need not go outside to attend to the animals, while
+the latter benefit by the warmth from the farmhouse.
+
+The Danes would never speak crossly to a cow or call her by other than
+her own name, which is generally printed on a board over her stall. The
+cow, in fact, is the domestic pet of the Danish farm. In the winter
+these animals are taken for a daily walk wearing their winter coats of
+jute!
+
+These small farmers realize that "Union is Strength," and have built up
+for themselves a marvellous system of co-operation. This brings the
+market literally to the door of the peasant farmer. Carts collect the
+farm produce daily and transport it to the nearest factories belonging
+to this co-operation of farmers. At these factories the milk is turned
+into delicious butter, the eggs are examined by electric light, and "Mr.
+Pig" quickly changes his name to Bacon! These three commodities form the
+most remunerative products of the farm.
+
+The Danish farmer is a strong believer in education, thanks to the
+Grundtvig High-schools. Bishop Grundtvig started these schools for the
+benefit of the sons and daughters of yeomen. When winter comes, and
+outside farm-work is at a standstill, the farmer and his family attend
+these schools to learn new methods of farming and dairy-work. The
+farmer's children are early taught to take a hand and interest
+themselves in the farm-work. The son, when school is over for the day,
+must help to feed the live-stock, do a bit of spade-work or
+carpentering, and perhaps a little book-keeping before bedtime. These
+practical lessons develop in the lad a love of farm-work and a pride
+in helping on the family resources.
+
+[Illustration: VAGT-PARADEN. LIFEGUARDS DRAWING UP OUTSIDE THE PALACE.]
+
+Butter-making is an interesting sight at the splendidly equipped
+steam-factories, and we all know that Danish butter is renowned for its
+excellence. When the milk is weighed and tested it runs into a large
+receiver, thence to the separator; from there the cream flows into the
+scalder, and pours over the ice frame in a rich cool stream into a
+wooden vat.
+
+Meanwhile the separated milk has returned through a pipe to the waiting
+milk-cans and is given back to the farmer, who utilizes it to feed his
+calves and pigs. The cream leaves the vat for the churn through a wooden
+channel, and when full the churn is set in motion. This combined churn
+and butter-worker completes the process of butter-making, and when the
+golden mass is taken out it is ready to be packed for the English
+market. The milk, on being received at the factory, is weighed and paid
+for according to weight. It takes 25 lbs. of milk to make 1 lb. of
+butter.
+
+"Hedeselskabet" (Heath Company) is a wonderful society started by
+Captain Dalgas and other patriotic Danes, in 1866, for the purpose of
+reclaiming the moors and bogs. The cultivation of these lands seemed
+impossible to most people, but these few enthusiasts with great energy
+and perseverance set to work to overcome Nature's obstacles. These
+pioneers have been so successful in their efforts that in less than half
+a century three thousand square miles of useless land in Jutland have
+been made fertile. Trees have been planted and carefully nursed into
+good plantations, besides many other improvements made for the benefit
+of the agriculturalist and the country generally. All along the sandy
+wastes of the west coast of Jutland esparto grass has been sown to bind
+the shifting sand, which is a danger to the crops when the terrible
+"Skaj"[8] blows across the land with unbroken force. Thanks to the
+untiring energies of this society for reclaiming the moors, Denmark has
+gained land almost equal to that she lost in her beautiful province of
+Schleswig, annexed by Prussia in the unequal war of 1864.
+
+In the town of Aarhus, the capital of Jutland, a handsome monument has
+been raised to the memory of Captain Dalgas, the father of the movement
+for reclaiming the moors, by his grateful countrymen.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+SOLDIERS AND SAILORS
+
+
+Every Danish boy knows he must undergo a period of training as a soldier
+or sailor when he reaches his twentieth year. This is because Denmark is
+small and poor, and could not maintain a standing army, so her citizens
+must be able to defend her when called upon. This service is required
+from all, noble and peasant alike, physical weakness alone bringing
+exemption. This six or twelve months' training means a hard rough time
+for young men accustomed to a refined home, but it has a pleasant side
+in the sympathy and friendship of comrades. The generality of conscripts
+do not love their soldiering days, and look upon them as something to be
+got over, like the measles! "Jens" is the Danish equivalent for "Tommy
+Atkins," and "Hans" is the "Jack Tar" of Denmark.
+
+To see the daily parade of Life Guards before the royal palace is to see
+a splendid military display. This parade the King and young Princes
+often watch from the palace windows. The crowd gathers to enjoy the
+spectacle of "Vagt-Paraden" (changing the guard) in the palace square,
+when the standard is taken from the Guard House and borne, to the
+stirring strains of the "Fane-Marsch," in front of the palace. As the
+standard-bearer marches he throws forward his legs from the hips in the
+most curious stiff way. This old elaborate German step is a striking
+feature of the daily parade. When the guard is changed and the band has
+played a selection of music, the same ceremony is repeated, and the
+standard deposited again in its resting-place. Then the released guard,
+headed by the band playing merry tunes, march back to their barracks
+followed by an enthusiastic crowd. The fresh guard take their place
+beside the sentry-boxes, which stand around the palace square. These are
+tall red pillar-boxes curiously like giant letter-boxes!
+
+In the Schleswig-Holstein War of 1864, the last war Denmark was engaged
+in, many Danish soldiers proved their valour and heroism in the unequal
+encounter. These gallant men were buried in Schleswig, and as the Danish
+colours were forbidden by the tyrannical Prussian conquerors, the loyal
+Schleswigers hit upon a pretty way of keeping the memory of their heroes
+green. The "Danebrog" was designed by a cross of white flowers on a
+ground of red geraniums over each grave. In this way the kinsmen of
+these patriots covered their last resting-place with the colours of
+their glorious national flag, under which they fell in Denmark's
+defence. In Holmens Kirke, Copenhagen, many heroes lie buried. This
+building, originally an iron foundry, was converted into a church by
+the royal builder, Christian IV., for the dockyard men to worship in,
+and it is still used by them. This King's motto, "Piety strengthens the
+realm," stands boldly over the entrance of this mortuary chapel for
+famous Danes.
+
+As Denmark is a kingdom composed mainly of islands and peninsula, she
+has a long line of sea-board to defend, and a good navy is essential for
+her safety. The Danes being descendants of Vikings and sea-rovers, you
+may be sure that their navy is well maintained.
+
+A boy who chooses the navy as his profession must leave school at the
+age of fourteen years, and go for nine months' training on a warship as
+a voluntary apprentice. At the end of this time he knows whether he
+likes the profession well enough to join it--if so, two years' coaching
+is given to enable him to pass the necessary examinations for entering
+the Naval Academy. Here he is trained for four years, spending the four
+summer months of each year in cruising. This Naval Academy, where
+officers are trained, is a fine old institution, and prides itself on
+the record of the famous men it has turned out. The present King of
+Greece, and many other members of the Danish Royal Family, have also
+been trained at this Academy. The Academy course is expensive, and as
+promotion is slow, and pay small in the navy, the Lieutenants are
+sometimes permitted to captain a ship in the merchant service for three
+years. This they are glad to do, as it increases their pay and
+knowledge of navigation. Denmark being too small to maintain a large
+cruising fleet, these officers would have little opportunity of proving
+their sailing powers without this arrangement.
+
+When cruising, the high spirits of the young cadets sometimes lead them
+into mischief, thereby bringing trouble upon their heads. I knew a naval
+captain who hit upon a very original and effective form of punishment
+for wrong-doers. The cadet cap is a blue "tam-o'-shanter" with the usual
+woolly bob of the same colour on the top. "The naughty boys shall have a
+red bob," said the "Kaptejn," "and thus be branded for misdemeanour!"
+The culprits disliked this badge intensely, I imagine mostly because
+their comrades derisively admired the colour which made them
+conspicuous. One day royalties were being shown over the ship, and a
+young Princess asked "why some of the boys had those pretty red tufts on
+their caps?" You may imagine the chagrin and confusion of the culprits;
+scarlet faces and crimson tufts told their own tale! The boys, you may
+be sure, thought twice in future before risking another penitential week
+of branding and ridicule for breach of discipline.
+
+In Copenhagen one of the discarded warships is used as public restaurant
+and training-school for ships' cooks. Here the sailor-men are taught
+every branch of cooking and kitchen-work. When trained, these cooks are
+employed on the merchant-ships, as well as on the men-of-war.
+
+Some interesting stories are told of the naval heroes of Denmark which
+you will like to hear. Peder Tordenskjold is the Nelson of Denmark. This
+man, besides being a great Admiral, was a most genial character, and had
+a striking and original personality. Many true tales are told about this
+hero which the young Danish lads never tire of hearing. There is a
+favourite one which tells of the ingenious way by which he discovered
+the weak points in his enemy's stronghold. Dressing himself as a
+fisherman, he accompanied two other fishers in a little rowing-boat
+laden with fish to the enemy's shores. Taking a basket of fish, he
+mounted the hill to the fort, saying he had brought the fish for the
+commandant. He was allowed to pass in to the fort with his fish, and,
+pretending stupidity, kept losing his way--gaining knowledge
+thereby--till he reached the commandant's residence. Gaining permission
+from the latter to supply the garrison with fish, he inquired for how
+many men he should provide. "Let me see," said the commandant, half to
+himself, "a hundred guns--two hundred men; you may bring fish for a
+hundred men." Tordenskjold then left the fort, having obtained all the
+information he required, and returned to his boat. At this moment the
+captain of one of the ships lying in the bay arrived on shore, and the
+pretended fisherman at once accosted him, asking permission to serve his
+men with fish. This being granted, he at once rowed to the ship, where
+he soon disposed of his fish, and conversing with the sailors, he
+gained the information that in two days' time there would be a great
+festivity held on shore, at which most of them would be present. With
+this valuable knowledge he returned to his own shore from the Swedish
+coast, and laid plans which gave Denmark a victory and proved fatal to
+the Swedes. In Holmens Kirke, where this hero lies buried, a splendid
+black marble tomb has been erected to his memory by King Frederik IV.
+Near by lies another naval hero, Niels Juel, whose gilt and copper
+coffin is surmounted by a tablet which tells of his brave deeds.
+
+Captain Hvitfeldt, the hero of Kjöge Bay, blew up his ship with three
+hundred men to save the Danish fleet from destruction. In the war of
+1710, between Denmark and Sweden, this captain's ship, the _Danebrog_,
+took fire. To save the ships which were being driven by the wind towards
+his burning vessel, he and his gallant crew sacrificed their lives.
+
+Herluf Trolle was a Danish noble and a famous Admiral, who left all his
+wealth to found a school for orphans. His noble wife, Fru Bergitta, was
+greatly distressed that the Admiral's will could not be found, as she
+was most anxious that his wishes, which were also her own, with regard
+to the school, should be carried into effect. The Admiral's relatives
+would inherit the property, and were already clamouring for it, when one
+night Fru Bergitta had a dream. She dreamed she saw someone walking
+round her husband's writing-table, attentively inspecting the legs.
+These she examined on awakening, and found one to be hollow.
+Discovering a secret spring, she pressed it, and beheld the will lying
+in the hollow space. So Herluf Trolle's school was founded, and although
+this brave old Admiral died from wounds received in battle centuries
+ago, yet his school is considered to be one of the best at the present
+day.
+
+[Illustration: SUNDAY IN THE ISLAND OF LÆSÖ.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+THE PEOPLE OF THE ISLES
+
+
+One of the most storm-swept and barren of Denmark's many islands is the
+island of Fanö. Lying, as it does, exposed to the full force of the
+North Sea gales, it yet serves to protect the harbour of Esbjerg from
+these storms. It is eight miles long, and three miles at its broadest
+part. A trim little steamer will carry you across from Esbjerg to
+Nordby--the fishing town on the east coast of Fanö--in twenty minutes.
+Nordby is both quaint and picturesque. The low thatched houses, with
+rough-cast, whitewashed walls, nestle close to each other for shelter
+from the winds.
+
+The Fanö women have a practical but peculiar costume; the
+thickly-pleated skirt has a bright-coloured border, while the
+close-fitting bodice is adorned with embroidery, and pretty antique
+buttons. A folded cotton kerchief and accordion-pleated apron give a
+daintiness to the whole dress. The head-dress, however, gives the most
+singular finish to the costume. A dark, checked-bordered handkerchief
+tied over a stiff, cambric frame, entirely envelops the head. The four
+ends of this handkerchief are tied in an odd way, two being left
+upstanding like rabbits' ears! This striking head-dress gives the Fanö
+wife a fantastic appearance. When the good-natured, smiling faces of
+these women are hidden behind a mask, the combination of dress and mask
+makes them awesome-looking folk. The men of the island are nearly all
+fishermen; the women are the farmers, and it is to protect their faces
+from the blinding sand-storms, while working on the land, that these
+masks are worn. This mask obliterates all comeliness, for only the eyes
+peep out from the weird face-protector.
+
+This island of heath, dune, and quicksand is wild and romantic. The
+cultivated fields are protected by sand-hills, and belts of stunted,
+wind-swept trees that afford some slight protection to the crops. The
+island belongs to the people, who cultivate it assiduously. The courage
+and perseverance of these women agriculturalists is rewarded by fair
+crops, notwithstanding an adverse climate.
+
+At the south end of the island, far away from any dwelling, is the
+interesting "Fugleköjerne,"[9] where three or four hundred wild-duck are
+taken in a day during the season. Decoy-ducks are used for this purpose.
+
+The west side of the island is the most fashionable watering-place in
+Denmark. Large hotels and pretty villas line the shore, and here the
+well-to-do Danes inhale bracing sea-breezes.
+
+On a windy day this western shore is not amusing. Clouds of blinding
+sand whirl high in the air, while the booming surf rolls and plunges on
+the beach with deafening roar, and makes rank and fashion fly to shelter
+in hotel or villa till the storm is over. Visitors in summer and storms
+in winter have it all their own way on this west coast--the people of
+Fanö trouble it not.
+
+Bornholm, situated in the middle of the Baltic, is both beautiful and
+fertile. Its products are very valuable to Denmark. From here comes the
+clay of which the exquisite Copenhagen porcelain is made. Here, too, the
+granite for building the country's defences and docks is quarried. I
+fancy if you were to ask a young Dane what Bornholm is most famed for he
+would say, "Turkeys," for the island supplies the Copenhagen market with
+these birds.
+
+The chief town, Rönne, is charming, with its many low-roofed houses,
+which overlook the Baltic. It is noted for its terra-cotta ware, clocks,
+and Museum of Antiquities.
+
+Most of the towns are upon the coast. Four singular round churches,
+built of granite, were formerly used as places of refuge for the people
+when beset by pirates. These "Rundkirker" are peculiar to Bornholm.
+
+A high festival is celebrated every year on the anniversary of the day
+when the inhabitants succeeded in throwing off the Swedish yoke, which
+they had borne for a short time in the seventeenth century with
+resentment.
+
+Hammershus Castle, on the northern extremity of Bornholm, was built in
+the thirteenth century. There is a sad tale connected with this romantic
+castle, about a Danish noble and his wife. This noble, Corfitz Ulfeldt,
+was imprisoned there for treason. His beautiful wife, Eleonora, the
+favourite daughter of Christian IV., accompanied him, preferring
+imprisonment with him to liberty without him. After the Count died,
+Eleonora, who had a mortal enemy in Queen Caroline Amalia, was sent by
+the latter to the "Blaataarn"[10] of Slotsholmen, Copenhagen, and there
+incarcerated for twenty-two years. The illustrious Eleonora was only
+liberated on the death of the vindictive Queen, but the long years of
+captivity--without reason--had wrecked her life.
+
+Læsö is a small island in the Cattegat, the inhabitants of which are
+mainly farmers and fishermen, and the old women wear a particular
+costume for Sunday, which is called the "church costume."
+
+The people of Amager are great market-gardeners. They are of Dutch
+extraction. Christian II., after flying from his country, took refuge in
+Holland, and some of the Dutch helped him in trying to regain his
+throne. For this service he gave his Dutch followers the island of
+Amager. The descendants of these Dutch people still retain their old
+customs and characteristics. Clattering about in wooden shoes, the old
+women, in quaint costume, may be seen driving their geese down the
+picturesque streets to the meadows. Besides being market-gardeners and
+florists, these Amager folk rear and fatten the geese for the Christmas
+market.
+
+The natural beauty of the island of Möen is striking, and unlike the
+rest of Denmark. "Möen's Klint" are great, jagged white cliffs rising
+abruptly from the sea. Enchanting beech-woods thickly crown the summit,
+giving distinctive and unusual beauty to it. From Sommerspiret, the
+highest point, we have an extensive view over the Østersöen and Köjge
+Bay, where the famous victory over the Swedes was won by Niels Juel in
+1677.
+
+In Denmark the town-crier beats a drum to draw attention to the notice
+he is about to give.
+
+Danish postmen present a gorgeous appearance, in red coats, with smart
+cloaks of the same brilliant hue for winter wear. These and the bright
+yellow mail-vans, which they drive sometimes, arrest attention, and give
+importance to the carriers of His Majesty's mails.
+
+In many of the houses the "Forhöjning" is still used. This is a raised
+platform close to the window, on which the lady of the house sits to do
+her embroidery. While she is here she can follow all that goes on in the
+street below by an ingenious arrangement of oblique convex mirrors fixed
+to the outside of the window, and reflecting the life in the streets
+both ways.
+
+The numerous pretty articles made of amber, which adorn the ladies'
+dressing-tables, and of which beads and ornaments for the girls are
+composed, are of local manufacture, amber being found in quantities on
+the west coast of Jutland.
+
+In the islands of Funen and Seeland there are many grand old
+manor-houses belonging to the nobility, whose fine estates give
+employment to many peasants. A story is told of a certain noble,
+Christian Barnekow by name, who saved his King, Christian IV., by his
+heroic self-sacrifice. The King had lost his horse, and was on the point
+of being killed or made prisoner when Barnekow came to his rescue.
+Giving the King his own horse, he said, "I give my horse to my King, my
+life to the enemy, and my soul to God." A street in Copenhagen is called
+after this brave nobleman "Kristenbernikovstrade."
+
+It is characteristic of the Danes to run words into each other, and
+streets in Denmark often have prodigiously long names.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+FISHERMEN AT HOME AND AFLOAT
+
+
+The class of people most lauded by their own and other nations is that
+of the brave and hardy fishermen of Denmark. These men are always
+willing to man the life-boat and to risk their lives to save those in
+peril on the dangerous coast of Jutland. Although hundreds of ships are
+wrecked on this dreaded "Jernkyst" (iron coast), their crews are
+invariably saved by these courageous men. The whole length of the west
+coast of Jutland is bleak and exposed to the storms and fogs of the
+North Sea. Not one single harbour of refuge can be found between Esbjerg
+and the Skaw. Dangerous sandbanks and massive cliffs guard the coast,
+making navigation both difficult and hazardous. All along this perilous
+coast life-saving apparatus of the newest and best type is stored in the
+life-boat houses placed at intervals close to the seashore. On stormy
+nights the watching sentinels summon by telephone the fishermen of the
+tiny hamlets near. At sound of a rocket the distressful cry, "A wreck, a
+wreck!" runs over the telephone, and immediately brave hearts and hands
+are putting off to the rescue, while trembling women anxiously wait
+their husbands' return with warm restoratives for the saved. These
+fishermen's wives are brave too, for it is anxious work waiting and
+watching. It is not to be wondered at that this merciless and cruel
+coast is dreaded by all seamen. How thankful they must feel when they
+see the great lighthouse at Grenen--the northernmost point of
+Jutland--and can signal "All's well!" "Alt vel! passeret Grenen" flash
+the lights across the water, and both passengers and crew breathe a
+little more freely if it has been a stormy passage. Something like
+eighty thousand vessels pass by this coast in a year, so you may be sure
+the gallant fishermen of Denmark who live on the iron coast have plenty
+of rescue work to do.
+
+[Illustration: SKAGEN FISHERMAN NEAR THE TOWER OF BURIED CHURCH.]
+
+You should see this coast on a stormy day, more especially at Grenen,
+where those two mighty seas, the Skagerack and Cattegat, meet. When the
+tempest rages here, far as eye can see a long ridge of seething, tossing
+water denotes the meeting-place of the currents. The great "white
+horses" in battle array fight, plunge, and roar--each striving for the
+mastery which neither gains. This wrestling-match is a splendid
+spectacle to those who are safe on shore, also to those at sea if the
+day is clear, because they can then give the reef a wide berth. Tossing
+spray is thrown high into the air and wind-borne to the shore, so even
+at a distance from the waves you may have a salt shower-bath should you
+be able to "keep your legs" against the fury of the gale. The screaming
+gulls which fly around, dipping and rising, enjoying as only
+"storm-birds" can the roar and tumult of these tempestuous waters,
+enhance the fierce loneliness of the scene. This awe-inspiring
+"Nature-barrier" saddens you--even while you exult in the madness of its
+fury--when you think what it means on a foggy night to the poor mariner.
+What a comfort for the seafarer to know that there is such a famous race
+of fishermen here, willing and ready to man the life-boat and rescue
+them from the angry, engulfing waters! You would never guess these seas
+could be otherwise than kind when you enter their smiling depths for a
+swim on a calm, sunny day. How gentle and invigorating they can be the
+fishermen as well as the visitors know, and any morning you may see the
+former returning from their daily dip with dripping heads and towels
+along the shore. Somehow these fishermen are always picturesque. In the
+summer evening, sitting or lying on the sunlit beach, smoking their
+cutty-pipes and waiting for the time to launch their boats for the
+fishing, they make an impressive picture. Kindly blue eyes and
+weather-beaten faces look at you from under the sou'westers, while blue
+jerseys, long sea-boots with curled-over tops and oil-skins, complete
+the sea-going outfit. Fully equipped, they charm the eye of the most
+fastidious, and it is little wonder that they have become subjects for
+famous artists and poets.
+
+These fishermen are very devout, and before launching their boat they
+all stand round it with clasped hands and bowed heads, offering up a
+short, silent prayer for help and protection on these dangerous waters.
+Then, pushing the boat out into the water, they jump in while it
+floats--sea-boots getting wet in the process--and wave farewell to their
+children on the shore, who cry in return "Farvel Fa'er!"
+
+Lars Kruse, the late captain of the life-boat at Skagen, has had a
+beautiful monument raised to his memory, and his son will show you with
+great pride the cups and medals he left behind as mementoes of his brave
+deeds. These medals have been presented by many different nations whose
+sea-farers have been saved by him. Amongst these is one given by Queen
+Victoria.
+
+Captain Larsen, a well-known mariner, who, on retiring from his post on
+one of the light-ships, settled at Old Skagen, has left a unique
+collection to the village. This now constitutes a museum of exquisitely
+carved furniture, much of it inlaid with ivory, marbles and metals in
+dainty designs, all made by this old sailor during the last twelve years
+of his life--a wonderful record of industry. Old Skagen is a quaint
+fisher-village, nestling behind the sand-dunes, trying to shelter itself
+from the sand and sea-storms to which these shores are subjected.
+
+Many of these fisher-folk are farmers also, tilling and cultivating the
+heath-lands which lie beyond the village. The fisher cottages are quite
+pretty, with thatched or red-tiled roofs, white or buff rough-cast
+walls, green painted doors and windows, with black painted foundations
+which protect them from the sand. Bright flowering plants in the windows
+and the neat and clean appearance of the whole betoken the joy and
+comfort that reigns in the fisherman's home. Many household duties are
+performed at the cottage door in the sandy enclosure surrounding the
+little homestead. Here the old men mend the nets, keeping a watchful eye
+on the babies, while the women clean and salt the fish, hanging them up
+in rows to dry in the sun. In these garden enclosures, also, many
+quaintly pretty miniature houses may be seen erected on tall poles.
+These are to encourage the starlings and other songsters to settle in
+them, as there are no trees. Hen-roosts and outhouses are adorned with
+the name-boards of wrecked boats washed up on the shore, while discarded
+boats turned over and tarred make the roofs of these curious shelters
+worthy of royal hens!
+
+The older fishermen have a safe and effective way of trawling from the
+strand. Putting out in a small boat, taking their net with them, to
+which a long rope is attached--the end of this being left in charge of
+the fishermen on the shore--they row gaily over the water, paying out
+the rope as they go. When the limit of this rope is reached, the men
+drop their weighted net overboard and pull for the shore, bringing with
+them another attached rope which is paid out till they reach the strand.
+When they have landed and the boat is beached, half a dozen men or more
+take hold of each rope--these are fastened to each side of the
+submerged net--and begin hauling it to the shore. The straining muscles
+of the men as they march up the beach with a strong, steady, overhand
+pull on the rope denotes that this is heavy work. It is a grand sight!
+As the net nears the shore the gleaming, glittering mass of fish can be
+seen leaping and jumping in vain endeavour to escape from their prison,
+only the smaller fry succeeding. At last the net with its silver load
+reaches the shore with the noise as of a great wave breaking upon the
+beach, which is caused by the efforts of the fish to gain their freedom.
+The best fish are picked out and the others returned to the sea, while
+the gulls swoop down with querulous cry and gobble all that float on the
+surface of the water. These fishermen have a prejudice against skate,
+and use it only for bait.
+
+St. Clement is the patron saint of Danish fishermen, and many of the
+churches in the coast towns are dedicated to him.
+
+As the Cathedral of Aarhus is dedicated to St. Clement, the Skaw
+fishermen have given an exquisite model of a ship to the church. This
+ship is a perfect representation in miniature of a man-of-war. It was
+made in Holland for Peter the Great, but the ship which carried it was
+wrecked near Grenen, and the model was saved by the Skaw fishermen.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+YOUTHFUL DANES AT WORK AND PLAY
+
+
+Denmark is renowned for its educational system and for its schools.
+These schools are all under Government control, and meet the wants of
+every class. The authorities are upheld by the parents, both being
+determined there shall be no such thing as an ignoramus in Denmark, so
+whether the children are educated at home or sent to school, they must
+begin lessons at the age of seven. If they have a governess at home the
+parents must give a guarantee to the authorities that the governess is
+efficient and capable of giving the standard education to the children.
+Should parents elect to take their children abroad during the school
+term, they must notify their intention, undertaking that a teacher shall
+accompany them and lessons continue while away. Shirking lessons is
+quite an impossibility for little Danes, as everybody thinks that
+education comes before all else, so parents do not encourage idleness or
+extra holidays during the school year.
+
+School attendance is compulsory for all children between the ages of
+seven and fourteen. The hours are not long nor wearisome, as the lessons
+are arranged with a view to holding the attention of young minds during
+the period of instruction. The classes are small, even in the free
+schools, never more than thirty-five pupils to a teacher, and generally
+less. The lesson lasts forty minutes, and then there is an interval for
+play. The thorough education of the pupils for their future work in life
+is considered, so lessons in writing, reading, and arithmetic, in the
+Kommune schools, are varied by tailoring lessons for boys, and cookery
+for girls, after they are ten years of age. At every school gymnastics
+play an important part--pleasant lessons these are for all--but perhaps
+the lesson the boys most delight in is their instruction in Slöyd. Each
+lad has his carpenter's bench with necessary tools, and as we know every
+boy is happy when making or marring with hammer and nails, I am sure you
+will think these must be enviable lessons. I have seen some charming
+models as well as useful things made by the boys--a perfect miniature
+landau, complete in every detail, benches, bureaux, carts, tables,
+chairs, besides many other serviceable articles. Besides this
+pleasure-work at school, the boys, if they are farmers' sons, have
+practical lessons at home by helping their father on the farm. The
+authorities being anxious to help the farmer, they allow him to keep a
+boy at home half the day for instruction in farm-work, but the other
+half must be spent at school. The prizes at the municipal schools not
+infrequently consist of clothes, watches, clocks, or tools, all of which
+are worked for eagerly by the pupils.
+
+The boys and girls of Denmark begin early with gymnastic exercises, and
+soon become sturdy little athletes from sheer love of the exhilarating
+practice. All Danes pride themselves--and with good reason--on their
+national athletic exercises. At the Olympic Games, held at the Stadium
+in London, the Danish ladies carried away the gold medal by their fine
+gymnastic display. This was a triumph with so many competitors in the
+field. It is an amusing sight to see the Danes at a seaside resort
+taking their morning swim; each one on leaving the water runs about on
+the sun-warmed beach, and goes through a gymnastic display on his own
+account, choosing the exercise he considers most calculated to warm and
+invigorate him after his dip. The children require no second bidding to
+follow father's example, and as they emerge from the water breathless,
+pantingly join in the fun. Sons try to go one better than the father in
+some gymnastic feat which the latter's stoutness renders impossible! The
+merry peals of laughter which accompany the display speak eloquently of
+the thorough enjoyment of all the bathers.
+
+Yachting in Denmark is not merely a pleasure for the rich, it is
+inexpensive, so all classes and every man capable of sailing a boat can
+enjoy it. In the summer-time the Sound and other waters seem alive with
+the multitudes of white sails and speeding craft of all sizes. The
+Øresund Week, as the Royal Yacht Club's regatta-week is called, is the
+time of all others for yachtsmen to display their skill, and a gay
+event in the Copenhagener's year. The pleasant waters of Denmark are
+beloved of yachtsmen. Sailing round the wooded islands, you are
+impressed by their picturesque beauty, which is seen to advantage from
+the water. One is not surprised that this popular pastime comes first
+with every Danish boy, who, whether swimming, rowing, or sailing, feels
+perfectly at home on the water. Everybody cycles in Denmark.
+Cycle-stands are provided outside every shop, station, office, and
+college, so that you have no more difficulty in disposing of your cycle
+than your umbrella.
+
+[Illustration: WINTER IN THE FOREST.]
+
+Football is a summer game here--spirited matches you would think
+impossible at this season--but the Danes have them, and what is more,
+they will inform you that they quite enjoy what appears to the spectator
+a hot, fatiguing amusement. Cricket has few attractions for the Danish
+lads, but that is because they cannot play, though their schoolmasters
+and parents would have them try. All things English are much admired,
+and when a Dane intends to do a thing he generally succeeds, so we can
+only suppose he is too indifferent about cricket--although it is an
+English game--to excel.
+
+Golf and hockey are also played, and "bandy"--_i.e._, hockey on the
+ice--is a favourite winter sport. A "bandy" match is quite exciting to
+watch. The players, armed with a wooden club, often find the ice a
+difficulty when rushing after the solid rubber ball. This exhilarating
+game is known in some parts of the world as "shinty." The Danes are
+proficient skaters, and of late years an artificial ground for winter
+sport of all kinds has been made in the Ulvedal, near Copenhagen. Here
+they have "bandy" matches, ski-ing, and tobogganing, as well as other
+winter games. Fox-hunting is unknown in Denmark, but frequently foxes
+are included in the sportsman's bag when shooting. These are shot
+because it is necessary to keep Mr. Reynard's depredations under
+control. Trotting-matches are held on Sunday on the racecourse near
+Charlottenlund, and horse-racing takes place too. Lawn-tennis and
+croquet are very popular, but the latter is the favourite pastime of the
+Danish ladies.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+INGEBORG'S JOURNEY THROUGH SEELAND
+
+
+Funen, the island which lies between the Great and Little Belts, is
+known as the "Garden of Denmark," on account of its beauty and
+fertility. In Odense, the capital, Ingeborg had lived happily all the
+fifteen summers of her life. Now she was to have an unexpected treat.
+Her grandfather intended taking her with him on the morrow to see some
+of the historical places in Seeland. Ingeborg loved history, and had
+given her grandfather much pleasure by the knowledge she displayed when
+showing him over her own church, St. Knud's. This ancient Gothic Church
+is the finest specimen of mediæval architecture in Denmark. St. Knud,
+the grand-nephew of Canute the Great, was slain before the altar while
+praying for his people. This brave King could have saved himself by
+flight, but would not, lest his subjects should suffer at the hands of
+his enemies. He was canonized by the Pope, and his brother built the
+church to his memory. Besides being the shrine of St. Knud, this church
+is the burial-place of King Christian II. and his Queen, as well as of
+King Hans and his Consort. The beautiful altar-piece, given by Queen
+Christina, is of the most exquisite workmanship, and took the artists
+many years to execute.
+
+Ingeborg's excitement was great when she crossed from Nyborg. She
+remembered that an army once crossed this water on foot, so severe was
+the winter, and that ice-breakers are still used occasionally. The girl
+wished it was winter as she watched for the first time the huge
+paddle-wheels of the steam-ferry ploughing through the waters of the
+Great Belt. By the time Korsör was reached, Herr Nielsen, her
+grandfather, had made acquaintance with a student who was returning to
+his college at Sorö, the town which they intended making their first
+stopping-place. The student, whose name was Hans, informed them that he
+lived at Ribe, a quaint old town of South Jutland, left very much to
+memories and the storks, but possessing a fine twelfth-century
+Cathedral. The college at Sorö was founded by Ludvig Holberg, the father
+of Danish comedy, who left his fortune and library for that purpose.
+Hans was proud of belonging to this college, as it had educated many men
+of letters famous in Danish history.
+
+In the Cistercian Church of Sorö, Bishop Absalon, the founder of
+Copenhagen, lies buried. It is said that this Bishop's spirit appears,
+with menacing attitude, if anyone desecrates the place by irreverence.
+Ludvig Holberg is also buried in this cloister church, as well as three
+Danish Kings.
+
+Ingemann the poet spent most of his time at this charming town, which
+stands on the lake of the Sorö Sö. In the luxuriant beech-woods which
+surround the lake, Saxo Grammaticus, the first historian of Denmark, was
+wont to wander. Both these celebrated men also lie in the old church,
+which Ingeborg felt was a fitting resting-place for the noble dead.
+
+On the advice of Hans, Herr Nielsen took his young grand-daughter to see
+the old convent church of Ringsted. Here many Danish Kings were buried
+in the twelfth, thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. The interesting
+Romanesque Church of Kallundborg was also visited. This Church, with its
+four octagonal towers and a square tower in the middle, forms a Greek
+cross. This is the most unique specimen of mediæval architecture in the
+North.
+
+Ingeborg had long looked forward to seeing Roskilde Cathedral, and the
+day was bright and sunny when they arrived at the sleepy little town on
+the Roskilde Fjord. This stately Cathedral, with its two tall pointed
+spires, is called the "Westminster Abbey" of Denmark. It is the
+burial-place of the Danish Royal Family: thirty-three Kings and many
+Queens rest in it. A beautiful alabaster tomb marks the resting-place of
+Queen Margrethe, the famous Queen who united the three Crowns--Norway,
+Sweden, and Denmark--and was ever ambitious for the glory and
+development of these countries. She ruled with wisdom and wonderful
+diplomacy, and was the most powerful Queen Denmark ever had. She has
+been called the "Semiramis of the North." Though the three crowns are
+still on the shield of Denmark, the other two kingdoms were lost to her
+in the sixteenth century. Queen Margrethe was the daughter of Valdemar
+IV., known as "Atterdag," because of his favourite proverb: "I Morgen er
+der atter en Dag."[11] This powerful monarch kept his subjects in such
+incessant turmoil by his numerous wars for acquiring territory "that
+they had not time to eat"! The Renaissance chapel erected by Christian
+IV., in which his tomb stands, is very beautiful. This popular monarch,
+alike celebrated as architect, sailor, and warrior, was one of the most
+impressive figures in Danish history. The mural paintings of the chapel
+represent scenes in the life of this great King.
+
+Ingeborg was glad she remembered her history, and could tell her
+grandfather so much as they went through the Cathedral. He, however,
+informed her that Frederik VII. was the last of the Kings of the
+Oldenburg line, which had been on the throne of Denmark for over four
+hundred years.
+
+The sarcophagus of the beloved Christian IX., father of many European
+crowned heads, including Queen Alexandra of England, is still kept
+covered with fresh flowers. This King, whose memory is so revered in all
+countries, inaugurated a new dynasty in Denmark. The curious old clock
+at the western end of the cathedral interested Ingeborg, and she watched
+with delight, when it struck the hour of noon, St. George, mounted on
+his fiery steed, with many groans and stiff, jerky movements, kill the
+dragon, which expired with a gruesome death-rattle!
+
+In the thirteenth century this quiet town of Roskilde was the capital,
+and the archiepiscopal see of Denmark. An English Bishop, William of
+Roskilde, is supposed to have built the Cathedral.
+
+We will now follow our little friend and her grandfather to
+Frederiksborg Castle. The castle, with its many towers and pinnacles
+reflected in still waters, stands in the middle of a lake. This handsome
+Dutch Renaissance building is now used as an historical museum. Many of
+the Danish Kings have been crowned in its magnificent chapel. Wandering
+through the splendid rooms of the castle, Ingeborg could read the
+history of her country in a very pleasant and interesting manner. The
+collection being confined to one period for each room made instruction
+an easy affair for the grandfather. Beginning with King Gorm the Old and
+Canute the Great, it comprises all periods up to the last century.
+
+The autumn residence of the Royal Family, Fredensborg Castle, was the
+next place of interest visited. This Castle of Peace was built to
+commemorate the end of the war between Denmark and Sweden. "Fred" means
+"peace" in Danish, and, indeed, this place proves a home of peace to
+tired Royalty. Its park is considered the most beautiful in Denmark. The
+magnificent avenues of lime-trees are lined by marble statues of
+peasants in national costumes, Faroese, Icelandic and Norwegian, as well
+as those of Denmark.
+
+The Open-Air Museum at Lyngby, with its ancient farm and peasant
+buildings, the interiors of which are fitted up just as they used to be,
+gave Ingeborg a peep into the past and old-time Denmark. Here she saw a
+curious rolling-pin hanging in the ingle-nook of the farmhouse from the
+village of Ostenfeld. This wooden pin, so her grandfather told her, was
+a Clogg Almanac or Runic Calendar. It had four sides, each marking three
+months, large notches denoting Sundays, small ones showing week-days.
+Saints' days were marked by the symbol of each saint. He had seen some
+of these old calendars in the Ashmolean Museum at Oxford, when he had
+been in England, which were relics of Danish government there. These
+quaint and curious Clogg Almanacs were used throughout Scandinavia,
+small ones made of horn or bone being for the pocket.
+
+But here we must say good-bye to Ingeborg and her grandfather, as after
+seeing Kronborg Castle and Elsinore they will return by the beautiful
+coast-line to Copenhagen, there to enjoy many of the sights we have seen
+in "dear little Denmark."
+
+
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 1: Thank you for the food.]
+
+[Footnote 2: May it agree with you.]
+
+[Footnote 3: Spoon-food.]
+
+[Footnote 4: Luncheon.]
+
+[Footnote 5: Be so good.]
+
+[Footnote 6: Birthday child.]
+
+[Footnote 7: Impenetrable swamp.]
+
+[Footnote 8: The sharp, dry, north-west wind which blows in the spring.]
+
+[Footnote 9: Retreat of wild-duck.]
+
+[Footnote 10: Blue Tower.]
+
+[Footnote 11: To-morrow comes another day.]
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DENMARK***
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+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Denmark, by M. Pearson Thomson, Illustrated
+by F. J. Hyldahl</h1>
+<pre>
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at <a href = "http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre>
+<p>Title: Denmark</p>
+<p>Author: M. Pearson Thomson</p>
+<p>Release Date: December 13, 2006 [eBook #20107]</p>
+<p>Language: English</p>
+<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
+<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DENMARK***</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h3>E-text prepared by Juliet Sutherland, Ralph Janke,<br />
+ and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br />
+ (http://www.pgdp.net/)</h3>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class='footnotes'>
+<h2><a name="TRANSCRIBERS_NOTES" id="TRANSCRIBERS_NOTES"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">Transcriber's note:</a></h2>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_TN1_12" id="Footnote_TN1_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_TN1_12"><span class="label">[TN1]</span></a> The section of the book about Norway is not included.</p></div>
+</div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h2>PEEPS AT MANY LANDS</h2>
+
+
+<h1><span title='The section of the book about Norway is not included here'>NORWAY</span></h1>
+
+<h2><span title='The section of the book about Norway is not included here'>BY LIEUT.-COL. A. F. MOCKLER-FERRYMAN,
+F.R.G.S., F.Z.S.<a name="FNanchor_TN1_12" id="FNanchor_TN1_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_TN1_12" class="fnanchor">[TN1]</a></span></h2>
+
+
+<p class='center'>AND</p>
+
+
+<h1>DENMARK</h1>
+<h2>BY M. PEARSON THOMSON</h2>
+
+
+<p class='center'>WITH SIXTEEN FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS
+IN COLOUR</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+
+<h3>THE MACMILLAN COMPANY</h3>
+<p class='center'>64 &amp; 66 <span class="smcap">Fifth Avenue, New York</span></p>
+<p class='center'>1921</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a class='page' name='Page_ii' id='Page_ii' title='ii'></a><a name="DENMARK" id="DENMARK"></a>DENMARK</h2>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="SKETCH-MAP" id="SKETCH-MAP"></a>
+<a class='fig' href="images/map.png"><img src="images/map-tb.png" width="400" height="519" alt="SKETCH-MAP OF DENMARK." title="SKETCH-MAP OF DENMARK. (click to enhance)" /></a>
+<span class="caption">SKETCH-MAP OF DENMARK.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a class='page' name='Page_v' id='Page_v' title='v'></a><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2>
+
+
+
+<h2>DENMARK</h2>
+<h3><i>By M. Pearson Thomson</i></h3>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>CHAPTER</td><td align='right'>PAGE</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_I">I.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#MERRY_COPENHAGEN_I">MERRY COPENHAGEN&mdash;I</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_1'>1</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_II">II.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#MERRY_COPENHAGEN_II">MERRY COPENHAGEN&mdash;II</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_6'>6</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_III">III.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#HANS_CHRISTIAN_ANDERSEN_THE_FAIRY_TALE_OF_HIS_LIFE">HANS ANDERSEN&mdash;THE "FAIRY-TALE" OF HIS LIFE</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_12'>12</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">IV.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#FAMOUS_DANES">FAMOUS DANES</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_18'>18</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_V">V.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#LEGENDARY_LORE_AND_FOLK_DANCES">LEGENDARY LORE AND FOLK-DANCES</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_25'>25</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">VI.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#MANNERS_AND_CUSTOMS">MANNERS AND CUSTOMS</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_32'>32</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">VII.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#A_JAUNT_THROUGH_JUTLAND_I">A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND&mdash;I</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_39'>39</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">VIII.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#A_JAUNT_THROUGH_JUTLAND_II">A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND&mdash;II</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_45'>45</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">IX.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#THE_PEOPLES_AMUSEMENTS">THE PEOPLE'S AMUSEMENTS</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_51'>51</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_X">X.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#FARM_LIFE_BUTTER-MAKINGmdashHEDESELSKABET">FARM LIFE&mdash;BUTTER-MAKING&mdash;"HEDESELSKABET"</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_54'>54</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">XI.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#SOLDIERS_AND_SAILORS">SOLDIERS AND SAILORS</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_59'>59</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">XII.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#THE_PEOPLE_OF_THE_ISLES">THE PEOPLE OF THE ISLES</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_66'>66</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">XIII.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#FISHERMEN_AT_HOME_AND_AFLOAT">FISHERMEN AT HOME AND AFLOAT</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_72'>72</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">XIV.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#YOUTHFUL_DANES_AT_WORK_AND_PLAY">YOUTHFUL DANES AT WORK AND PLAY</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_78'>78</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">XV.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#INGEBORGS_JOURNEY_THROUGH_SEELAND">INGEBORG'S JOURNEY THROUGH SEELAND</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_83'>83</a></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a class='page' name='Page_vii' id='Page_vii' title='vii'></a><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+
+
+<h2>DENMARK</h2>
+<h3><i>By F. J. Hyldahl</i></h3>
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td><td align='right'>FACING PAGE</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#THE_FLOWER_MARKET">FLOWER MARKET IN COPENHAGEN</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_9'>9</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#DRAGOER_PEASANT">DRAG&Ouml;R PEASANT</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_16'>16</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CHILDREN_DAY">CHILDREN'S DAY</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_33'>33</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#HARVEST_TIME">HARVEST-TIME</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_40'>40</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#VAGT-PARADEN">VAGT-PARADEN</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_57'>57</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#SUNDAY_IN_THE_ISLAND">SUNDAY IN THE ISLAND OF L&AElig;S&Ouml;</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_64'>64</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#SKAGEN_FISHERMAN">SKAGEN FISHERMAN NEAR THE TOWER OF BURIED CHURCH</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_73'>73</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#WINTER_IN_THE_FOREST">WINTER IN THE FOREST</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_80'>80</a></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+<h4><i><a href="#SKETCH-MAP">Sketch-Map</a>, <a href="#Page_ii">page ii</a>, <a href="#DENMARK">Denmark Section</a>.</i></h4>
+
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h1><a class='page' name='Page_1' id='Page_1' title='1'></a>DENMARK</h1>
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER I</a></h2>
+
+<h3><a name="MERRY_COPENHAGEN_I" id="MERRY_COPENHAGEN_I"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">MERRY COPENHAGEN&mdash;I</a></h3>
+
+
+<p>Copenhagen, the metropolis of Denmark, is a large and
+flourishing city, with all the modern improvements of a
+commercial capital. It has an atmosphere of its own,
+an atmosphere of friendliness and gaiety, particularly
+appreciated by English people, who in "Merry Copenhagen"
+always feel themselves at home.</p>
+
+<p>The approach to this fine city from the North by the
+Cattegat is very charming. Sailing through the Sound,
+you come upon this "Athens of the North" at its most
+impressive point, where the narrow stretch of water
+which divides Sweden and Denmark lies like a silvery
+blue ribbon between the two countries, joining the
+Cattegat to the Baltic Sea. In summer the sparkling, blue
+Sound, of which the Danes are so justly proud, is alive
+with traffic of all kinds. Hundreds of steamers pass
+to and from the North Sea and Baltic, carrying their
+passengers and freights from Russia, Germany, Finland,
+and Sweden, to the whole world. In olden times
+Denmark exacted toll from these passing ships, which
+the nations found irksome, but the Danes most pro<a class='page' name='Page_2' id='Page_2' title='2'></a>fitable.
+This "Sundtold" was abolished finally at the
+wish of the different nations using this "King's highway,"
+who combined to pay a large lump sum to
+Denmark, in order that their ships might sail through
+the Sound without this annoyance in future.</p>
+
+<p>Kronborg Castle, whose salute demanded this toll in
+olden days, still rears its stately pinnacles against the
+blue sky, and looking towards the old fortress of
+Kj&auml;rnan, on the Swedish coast, seems to say, "Our
+glory is of a bygone day, and in the land of memories."</p>
+
+<p>Elsinore, the ancient town which surrounds this castle,
+is well known to English and American tourists as the
+supposed burial-place of Hamlet, the Prince of Denmark
+immortalized by Shakespeare. Kronborg Castle is
+interesting to us, in addition, as being the place where
+Anne of Denmark was married by proxy to James I.
+of England. Here, also, the "Queen of Tears,"
+Caroline Matilda, sister of George III., spent some unhappy
+months in prison, gazing sadly over the Sound,
+waiting for the English ships to come and deliver her.</p>
+
+<p>We pass up the Sound viewing the luxuriant cool
+green beech-woods of Denmark, and the pretty fishing
+villages lying in the foreground. Villas with charming
+gardens&mdash;their tiny rickety landing-stages, bathing
+sheds, and tethered boats, adding fascination to the
+homely scene&mdash;seem to welcome us to this land of fairy
+tales and the home of Hans Andersen.</p>
+
+<p>The many towers and pinnacles of Copenhagen,
+with the golden dome of the Marble Church, flash a<a class='page' name='Page_3' id='Page_3' title='3'></a>
+welcome as we steam into the magnificent harbour of
+this singularly well-favoured city. Here she stands,
+this "Queen of the North," as a gracious sentinel bowing
+acquiescence to the passing ships as they glide in
+and out of the Baltic. The broad quays are splendidly
+built, lined with fine warehouses, and present a busy
+scene of commercial activity. The warships lying at their
+moorings in the Sound denote that this is the station of
+the fleet; here also we see the country's only fortress&mdash;the
+formidable bulwarks which surround the harbour.</p>
+
+<p>Kj&ouml;benhavn in Danish means "merchants' harbour,"
+and as early as the eleventh century it was a trading
+centre for foreign merchants attracted by the rich supply
+of herrings found by the Danish fishermen in the Baltic.
+Bishop Absalon was the founder of the city. This
+warrior Bishop strongly fortified the place, in 1167, on
+receiving the little settlement from King Valdemar the
+Great, and had plenty to do to hold it, as it was continually
+harassed by pirates and the Wends. These,
+however, found the Bishop more than a match for them.
+His outposts would cry, "The Wends are coming!"
+and the Bishop would leave his preaching, his bed, or
+anything else he might be doing, gather his forces
+together, and fight gallantly for his little stronghold.
+He perhaps recognized that this might one day be the
+key to the Baltic, which it has since become.</p>
+
+<p>This city, therefore, is not a new one, but bombardment
+and conflagrations are responsible for its modern
+appearance. Fortunately, some of the handsome edifices<a class='page' name='Page_4' id='Page_4' title='4'></a>
+raised during the reign of Christian IV. (1588-1648)
+still remain to adorn the city. This monarch was a
+great architect, sailor, warrior, and King, and is one of
+the most striking figures in Danish history. He was
+beloved by his people, and did much for his kingdom.
+The buildings planned and erected during this monarch's
+reign are worthy of our admiration. The beautiful
+Exchange, with its curious tower formed by four
+dragons standing on their heads, and entwining their
+tails into a dainty spire; Rosenborg Castle, with its
+delicate pinnacles; the famous "Runde Taarn" (Round
+Tower), up whose celebrated spiral causeway Peter the
+Great is said to have driven a carriage and pair, are
+amongst the most noteworthy. The originality in design
+of the spires and towers of Copenhagen is quite remarkable.
+Vor Frelsers Kirke, or Church of Our Saviour,
+has an outside staircase, running round the outside of
+its spire, which leads up to a figure of our Saviour, and
+from this height you get a fine view of the city. The
+tower of the fire-station, in which the fire-hose hangs at
+full length; the copper-sheathed clock and bell tower&mdash;the
+highest in Denmark&mdash;of the Town Hall; the Eiffel-like
+tower of the Zoo, are among the most singular. In
+all these towers there is a beautiful blending of copper
+and gold, which gives a distinctive and attractive
+character to the city. Other prominent features are
+the pretty fish-scale tiling, and the copper and bronze
+roofs of many of the buildings, with their "stepped"
+gables. Charming, too, are the city's many squares and<a class='page' name='Page_5' id='Page_5' title='5'></a>
+public gardens, canals with many-masted ships making
+an unusual spectacle in the streets. But, after all, it is
+perhaps the innate gaiety of the Copenhagener which
+impresses you most. You feel, indeed, that these
+kindly Danes are a little too content for national
+development; but their light-hearted way of viewing
+life makes them very pleasant friends, and their hospitality
+is one of their chief characteristics. Every lady
+at the head of a Danish household is an excellent cook
+and manager, as well as being an agreeable and intelligent
+companion. The Copenhagener is a "flat" dweller,
+and the dining-room is the largest and most important
+room in every home. The Dane thinks much of his
+dinner, and dinner-parties are the principal form of
+entertainment. They joke about their appreciation of
+the good things of the table, and say, "a turkey is not
+a good table-bird, as it is a little too much for one Dane,
+but not enough for two!" A very pleasant side of
+Copenhagen life has sprung up from this appreciation,
+for the restaurants and caf&eacute;s are numerous, and cater
+well for their customers. While the Dane eats he must
+have music, which, like the food, must be good; he
+is very critical, and a good judge of both. This gay
+caf&eacute; and restaurant life is one of the fascinations of
+Denmark's "too-large heart," as this pleasant capital is
+called by its people.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a class='page' name='Page_6' id='Page_6' title='6'></a><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER II</a></h2>
+
+<h3><a name="MERRY_COPENHAGEN_II" id="MERRY_COPENHAGEN_II"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">MERRY COPENHAGEN&mdash;II</a></h3>
+
+
+<p>The climate of Copenhagen is delightful in summer,
+but quite the reverse in winter. Andersen says "the
+north-east wind and the sunbeams fought over the
+'infant Copenhagen,' consequently the wind and the
+'mud-king' reign in winter, the sunbeams in summer,
+and the latter bring forgetfulness of winter's hardships."
+Certainly, when the summer comes, the sunshine reigns
+supreme, and makes Copenhagen bright and pleasant
+for its citizens. Then the many water-ways and canals,
+running up from the sea as they do into the heart of
+the city, make it delightfully refreshing on a hot day.
+Nyhavn, for instance, which opens out of the Kongen's
+Nytorv&mdash;the fashionable centre of the town&mdash;is one of
+the quaintest of water-streets. The cobbled way on
+either side of the water, the curious little shops with
+sailors' and ships' wares, old gabled houses, fishing and
+cargo boats with their forests of masts, the little puffing
+motor-boats plying to and fro&mdash;all serve to make a
+distinctive picture. On another canal-side the fish-market
+is held every morning. A Danish fish-market
+is not a bit like other fish-markets, for the Dane must<a class='page' name='Page_7' id='Page_7' title='7'></a>
+buy his fish alive, and the canal makes this possible.
+The fishing-smacks line up the whole side of the quay;
+these have perforated wooden boat-shaped tanks
+dragging behind them containing the lively fish. The
+market-women sit on the quay, surrounded by wooden
+tubs, which are half-filled with water, containing the
+unfortunate fish. A trestle-table, on which the fish are
+killed and cleaned, completes the equipment of the fish-wives.
+The customers scrutinize the contents of the
+tub, choose a fish as best they can from the leaping,
+gasping multitude, and its fate is sealed. When the
+market-women require more fish, the perforated tank is
+raised from the canal, and the fish extracted with a
+landing-net and deposited in their tubs. Small fish
+only can be kept alive in tanks and tubs; the larger
+kinds, such as cod, are killed and sold in the ordinary
+way. This market is not at all a pleasant sight, so it is
+better to turn our backs on it, and pass on to the
+fragrant flower-market.</p>
+
+<p>Here the famous Amager women expose their merchandise.
+This market square is a gay spectacle, for the
+Dane is fond of flowers, and the Amager wife knows
+how to display her bright blooms to advantage. These
+vendors are notable characters. They are the descendants
+of the Dutch gardeners brought over by Christian II. to
+grow fruit and vegetables for Copenhagen, and settled
+on the fertile island of Amager which abuts on the city.
+Every morning these Amager peasants may be seen
+driving their laden carts across the bridge which joins<a class='page' name='Page_8' id='Page_8' title='8'></a>
+their island to the mainland. These genial, stout, but
+sometimes testy Amager wives have it all their own
+way in the market-place, and are clever in attracting
+and befooling a customer. So it has become a saying,
+if you look sceptical about what you are told, the
+"story-teller" will say, "Ask Amager mother!" which
+means, "Believe as much as you like." These women
+still wear their quaint costume: bulky petticoats, clean
+checked apron, shoulder-shawl, and poke-bonnets with
+white kerchief over them; and the merry twinkle of
+satisfaction in the old face when a good bargain has
+been completed against the customer's inclination is
+quite amusing. These interesting old characters are
+easily irritated, and this the little Copenhageners know
+full well. When stalls are being packed for departure,
+a naughty band of urchins will appear round the corner
+and call out:</p>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border='0'><tr><td align='left'>
+"Amager mother, Amager mo'er,<br />
+Give us carrots from your store;<br />
+You are so stout and roundabout,<br />
+Please tell us if you find the door<br />
+Too small to let you through!"<br />
+</td></tr></table></div>
+
+<p>The Amager wife's wrath is soon roused, and she is
+often foolish enough to try and move her bulky proportions
+somewhat quicker than usual in order to catch
+the boys. This of course she never manages to do, for
+they dart away in all directions. By this means the
+Amager woman gets a little much-needed exercise, the
+boys a great deal of amusement.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="THE_FLOWER_MARKET" id="THE_FLOWER_MARKET"></a>
+<a class='fig' href="images/illus001.jpg"><img src="images/illus001-tb.jpg" width="400" height="559" alt="THE FLOWER MARKET, COPENHAGEN." title="THE FLOWER MARKET, COPENHAGEN. (click to enhance)" /></a>
+<span class="caption">THE FLOWER MARKET, COPENHAGEN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><a class='page' name='Page_9' id='Page_9' title='9'></a>Sunday is a f&ecirc;te-day in Copenhagen, and the Dane feels
+no obligation to attend a Church service before starting
+out on his Sunday expedition. A day of leisure means
+a day of pleasure to the Copenhagener. The State
+helps and encourages him by having cheap fares, and
+good but inexpensive performances at the theatre and
+places of entertainment on Sunday. Even the poorest
+people manage to spare money for this periodical outing,
+mother and children taking their full share in the simple
+pleasures of the day. The Copenhagener looks forward
+to this weekly entertainment, and longs for the fresh
+air. This is not surprising, for many homes are stuffy,
+ventilation and open windows not seeming a necessity.
+A fine summer Sunday morning sees a leisurely stream
+of people&mdash;the Danes never hurry themselves&mdash;making
+for tram, train, or motor-boat, which will carry them
+off to the beautiful woods and shores lying beyond the
+city. Basking in the sunshine, or enjoying a stroll
+through the woods, feasting on the contents of their
+picnic baskets, with a cup of coffee or glass of pilsener
+at a caf&eacute; where music is always going on, they spend a
+thoroughly happy day. In the evening the tired but
+still joyous throng return home, all the better for the
+simple and pleasant outing. No country uses the
+bicycle more than Denmark, and Sunday is the day
+when it is used most. For the people who prefer to
+take their dinner at home on Sunday there is the
+pleasant stroll along the celebrated Langelinie. This
+famous promenade, made upon the old ramparts, over<a class='page' name='Page_10' id='Page_10' title='10'></a>looks
+the Sound with its innumerable yachts skimming
+over the blue water, and is a delightful place for
+pedestrians. A walk round the moat of the Citadel, on
+the waters of which the children sail their little boats,
+is also enjoyable. This Citadel, now used as barracks,
+was built by Frederik III. in 1663, and formerly served
+as a political prison. Struensee, the notorious Prime
+Minister, was imprisoned here and beheaded for treason.
+A few narrow, picturesque streets surrounding this fort
+are all that remain of old Copenhagen.</p>
+
+<p>The art treasures contained in the museums of
+Copenhagen being renowned, I must tell you a little
+about them. Two or three of the palaces not now
+required by the Royal Family are used to store some
+of these treasures. Rosenborg Castle, built by
+Christian IV., and in which he died, contains a collection
+of family treasures belonging to the Oldenburg
+dynasty. This historical collection of these art-loving
+Kings is always open to the public. Besides Thorvaldsen's
+Museum, which contains the greater portion
+of his works, there is the Carlsberg Glyptotek, which
+contains the most beautiful sculpture of the French
+School outside France. The Danish Folk-Museum is
+another interesting collection. This illustrates the life
+and customs of citizens and peasants from the seventeenth
+century to the present day, partly by single
+objects, and partly by representations of their dwellings.
+The "Kunstmus&aelig;et" contains a superb collection of
+pictures, sculpture, engravings, and national relics.<a class='page' name='Page_11' id='Page_11' title='11'></a>
+Here a table may be seen which formerly stood
+in Christian II.'s prison. History tells how the
+unhappy King was wont to pace round this table for
+hours taking his daily exercise, leaning upon his hand,
+which in time ploughed a groove in its hard surface.
+The Amalienborg, a fine tessellated square, contains
+four Royal palaces, in one of which our Queen Alexandra
+spent her girlhood. From the windows of these palaces
+the daily spectacle of changing the guard is witnessed
+by the King and young Princes.</p>
+
+<p>Copenhagen is celebrated for its palaces, its parks,
+porcelain, statuary, art-treasures, and last, but not least,
+its gaiety.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a class='page' name='Page_12' id='Page_12' title='12'></a><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER III</a></h2>
+
+<h3><a name="HANS_CHRISTIAN_ANDERSEN_THE_FAIRY_TALE_OF_HIS_LIFE" id="HANS_CHRISTIAN_ANDERSEN_THE_FAIRY_TALE_OF_HIS_LIFE"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">HANS CHRISTIAN ANDERSEN, THE "FAIRY TALE" OF HIS LIFE</a></h3>
+
+
+<p>I suppose the Dane best known to English boys and
+girls is Hans Christian Andersen, whose charming
+fairy-tales are well known and loved by them all.
+Most of you, however, know little about his life, but
+are interested enough in him, I dare say, to wish to
+learn more, especially as the knowledge will give you
+keener delight&mdash;if that is possible&mdash;in reading the
+works of this "Prince of Story-tellers."</p>
+
+<p>Andersen himself said: "My life has been so
+wonderful and so like a fairy-tale, that I think I had
+a fairy godmother who granted my every wish, for if
+I had chosen my own life's way, I could not have
+chosen better."</p>
+
+<p>Hans C. Andersen was the son of a poor shoemaker,
+an only child, born in Odense, the capital of the Island
+of Funen. His parents were devoted to him, and his
+father, who was of a studious turn of mind, delighted
+in teaching his little son and interesting him in Nature.
+Very early in life Hans was taken for long Sunday
+rambles, his father pointing out to him the beauties of<a class='page' name='Page_13' id='Page_13' title='13'></a>
+woods and meadows, or enchanting him with stories
+from the "Arabian Nights."</p>
+
+<p>At home the evenings were spent in dressing puppets
+for his favourite show, or else, sitting on his father's
+knee, he listened while the latter read aloud to his
+mother scenes from Holberg's plays. All day Hans
+played with his puppet theatre, and soon began to
+imagine plays and characters for the dolls, writing out
+programmes for them as soon as he was able. Occasionally
+his grandmother would come and take the child
+to play in the garden of the big house where she lived
+in the gardener's lodge. These were red-letter days
+for little Hans, as he loved his granny and enjoyed
+most thoroughly the pleasant garden and pretty
+flowers.</p>
+
+<p>The boy's first great trouble came when his father
+caught a fever and died, leaving his mother without
+any means of support. To keep the little home
+together his mother went out washing for her neighbours,
+leaving little Hans to take care of himself.
+Being left to his own devices, Hans developed his
+theatrical tendencies by constructing costumes for his
+puppets, and making them perform his plays on the
+stage of his toy theatre. Soon he varied this employment
+by reading plays and also writing some himself.
+His mother, though secretly rejoicing in her son's
+talent, soon saw the necessity for his doing something
+more practical with his time and assisting her to keep the
+home together. So at twelve years of age Hans was<a class='page' name='Page_14' id='Page_14' title='14'></a>
+sent to a cloth-weaving factory, where he earned a small
+weekly wage. The weavers soon discovered that Hans
+could sing, and the men frequently made him amuse
+them, while the other boys were made to do his work.
+One day the weavers played a coarse practical joke on
+poor sensitive Hans, which sent him flying home in
+such deep distress that his mother said he should not
+again return to the factory.</p>
+
+<p>Hans was now sent to the parish school for a few
+hours daily, and his spare time was taken up with his
+"peep-show" and in fashioning smart clothes for his
+puppets. His mother intended to apprentice her son
+to the tailoring, but Hans had fully made up his mind
+to become an actor and seek his fortune in Copenhagen.
+After his Confirmation&mdash;on which great occasion he
+wore his father's coat and his first new boots&mdash;his
+mother insisted on his being apprenticed without
+further delay. With difficulty he finally succeeded in
+persuading her to let him start for the capital with his
+few savings. His mother had married again, so could
+not accompany him; therefore, with reluctance and with
+many injunctions to return at once if all did not turn
+out well, she let him go. Accompanying him to the
+town gate, they passed a gipsy on the way, who, on
+being asked what fortune she could prophesy for the
+poor lad, said he would return a great man, and his
+native place would be illuminated and decorated in his
+honour!</p>
+
+<p>Hans arrived in Copenhagen on September 5, a date<a class='page' name='Page_15' id='Page_15' title='15'></a>
+which he considered lucky for ever after. A few days
+in the city soon saw an end to his money. He applied
+and got work at a carpenter's shop, but was driven away
+by the coarseness of his fellow-workers. Hans made a
+friend of the porter at the stage-door of the theatre, and
+begged for some employment in the theatre; so occasionally
+he was allowed to walk across the stage in a
+crowd, but obtained scanty remuneration, and the lad
+was often hungry. Starving and destitute, the happy
+idea occurred to our hero to try and earn something by
+his voice. He applied to Siboni, the Director of the
+Music School, and was admitted to his presence whilst
+the latter was at dinner. Fortunately for Hans,
+Baggersen the poet and Weyse the celebrated composer
+were of the party, so for their amusement the boy was
+asked to sing and recite. Weyse was so struck by the
+quality of his voice and Baggersen with his poetic feeling,
+that they made a collection among them there and
+then for him, and Siboni undertook to train his voice.
+Unfortunately, in six months' time his voice gave way,
+and Siboni counselled him to learn a trade. Hans
+returned to the theatre in the hope of employment, and
+his persistence finally gained him a place in a market
+scene. Making a friend of the son of the librarian, he
+obtained permission to read at the library, and he wrote
+tragedies and plays, some of which he took to the
+director of the theatre. This man became Andersen's
+friend for life, for the grains of gold which he saw in
+his work, marred though it was by want of education,<a class='page' name='Page_16' id='Page_16' title='16'></a>
+roused his interest. The director brought Andersen to
+the notice of the King, and he was sent to the Latin
+school, where he took his place&mdash;although now a grown
+man&mdash;among the boys in the lowest class but one. The
+master's tongue was sharp, and the sensitive youth was
+dismayed by his own ignorance. The kindness and
+sympathetic encouragement of the director was the only
+brightness of this period of Hans' life. University
+life followed that of school, and Andersen took a good
+degree. He now wrote a play, which was accepted and
+produced at the theatre with such success that he wept
+for joy. Soon his poems were published, and happiness
+and prosperity followed. Later the King granted him
+a travelling stipend, of forty-five pounds a year, and
+travelling became his greatest pleasure. Andersen
+visited England two or three times, and reckoned
+Charles Dickens among his friends. He was the
+honoured guest of Kings and Princes, and the Royal
+Family of Denmark treated him as a personal friend.</p>
+
+<p>Though his "Fairy Tales" are the best known of his
+writings, he wrote successful novels, dramas and poems.
+Andersen's tastes were simple, and his child-like,
+affectionate nature made him much beloved by all.
+His native town, which he left as a poor boy, was
+illuminated and decorated to welcome his return. Thus
+the gipsy's prophecy came true. He died after the
+public celebration of his seventieth birthday, leaving all
+his fortune to the family of his beloved benefactor, the
+director of the theatre. A beautiful bronze monument<a class='page' name='Page_17' id='Page_17' title='17'></a>
+is erected to his memory in the children's garden of
+the King's Park, Copenhagen. Here the little Danes
+have ever a gentle reminder of their great friend, Hans
+C. Andersen, who felt&mdash;to use his own words&mdash;"like
+a poor boy who had had a King's mantle thrown over
+him."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="DRAGOER_PEASANT" id="DRAGOER_PEASANT"></a>
+<a class='fig' href="images/illus002.jpg"><img src="images/illus002-tb.jpg" width="400" height="546" alt="DRAG&Ouml;R PEASANT." title="DRAG&Ouml;R PEASANT. (click to enhance)" /></a>
+<span class="caption">DRAG&Ouml;R PEASANT.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a class='page' name='Page_18' id='Page_18' title='18'></a><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER IV</a></h2>
+
+<h3><a name="FAMOUS_DANES" id="FAMOUS_DANES"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">FAMOUS DANES</a></h3>
+
+
+<p>Bertel Thorvaldsen (1770-1844), the famous Danish
+sculptor, was born in Copenhagen. His father was an
+Icelander, his mother a Dane, and both very poor.
+Bertel's ambition when a little boy was to work his
+mother's spinning-wheel, which, of course, he was never
+permitted to do. One bright, moonlight night his
+parents were awakened by a soft, whirring sound, and
+found their little son enjoying his realized ambition.
+In the moonlit room he had successfully started the
+wheel and begun to spin, much to his parents' astonishment.
+This was the beginning of his creative genius,
+but many years went over his youthful head before he
+created the works which made him famous. His father
+carved wooden figure-heads for ships, and intended his
+son to follow the same calling. Bertel, however, soon
+showed talent and inclination for something better,
+and was sent to the Free School of the Art Academy,
+there making great progress. He received very little
+education beyond what the Art School gave him,
+and his youthful days were hard and poverty-stricken.
+When his hours at the Academy were over he<a class='page' name='Page_19' id='Page_19' title='19'></a>
+went from house to house trying to sell his models,
+and in this way eked out a scanty living. In
+spite of his poverty he was wholly satisfied, for his
+wants were few. His dog and his pipe, both necessities
+for happiness, accompanied him in all his
+wanderings.</p>
+
+<p>His true artistic career only began in earnest when
+he won a travelling scholarship and went to Rome,
+where he arrived on his twenty-seventh birthday.
+Stimulated to do his best by the many beautiful works
+of art which surrounded him, he found production easy,
+and the classical beauty of the Roman school appealed
+to him. Regretting his wasted years, he set to work in
+great earnest, and during the rest of his life produced a
+marvellous amount of beautiful work. A rich Scotsman
+bought his first important work, and the money thus
+obtained was the means of starting him firmly on his
+upward career. This highly talented Dane founded the
+famous Sculpture School of Denmark, which is of world-wide
+reputation. Thorvaldsen's beautiful designs&mdash;which
+were mainly classical&mdash;were conceived with great
+rapidity, and his pupils carried many of them out,
+becoming celebrated sculptors also. Dying suddenly
+in 1844, while seated in the stalls of the theatre watching
+the play, his loss was a national calamity. He
+bequeathed all his works to the nation, and these now
+form the famous Thorvaldsen Museum, which attracts
+the artistic-loving people of all nations to the city of
+Copenhagen.</p>
+
+<p><a class='page' name='Page_20' id='Page_20' title='20'></a>In the courtyard of this museum lies the great
+man's simple grave, his beautiful works being contained
+in the building which surrounds it.</p>
+
+<p>At the top of this Etruscan tomb stands a fine bronze
+allegorical group&mdash;the Goddess of Victory in her car,
+drawn by prancing horses&mdash;fitting memorial to this
+greatest of northern sculptors.</p>
+
+<p>Holger Drachmann was the son of a physician, and
+quite early in life became a man of letters. Following
+the profession of an artist, he became a very good
+marine painter. This poet loved the sea in all its
+moods, and was never happier than when at Skagen&mdash;the
+extreme northern point of Jutland&mdash;where he spent
+most of his summers. His painting was his favourite
+pastime, but poetry the serious work of his life. He
+was a very prolific writer, not only of verse and lyrical
+poems, but of plays and prose works, and was a very
+successful playwright. Drachmann's personality was a
+strong one, though not always agreeable to his countrymen.
+He had a freedom-loving spirit, and lived every
+moment of his life. Some of his best poems are about
+the Skaw fishermen, and later in life he settled down
+among them, dying at Skagen in 1907. He was a
+picturesque figure, with white flowing locks, erratic and
+unpractical, as poets often are. Like other famous
+Danes, he chose a unique burial-place. Away at Grenen,
+in the sand-dunes, overlooking the fighting waters of
+the Skagerack and Cattegat, stands his cromlech-shaped
+tomb, near the roar of the sea he loved so much, where<a class='page' name='Page_21' id='Page_21' title='21'></a>
+time and sand will soon obliterate all that remains of
+the Byron of Denmark.</p>
+
+<p>Nikolai Frederik Grundtvig, the founder of the
+popular high-schools for peasants, was born at his
+father's parsonage, Udby, South Seeland. He was sent
+to school in Jutland, and soon learned to love his wild
+native moors. While attending the Latin School in
+Aarhus he made friends with an old shoemaker, who
+used to tell him interesting stories of the old Norse
+heroes and sagas, often repeating the old Danish folk-songs.
+The lad being a true Dane, a descendant of
+the old vikings, he soon became very interested in the
+history of his race. Being sent to the University of
+Copenhagen, he chose to study Icelandic in order to
+read the ancient sagas, English to read Shakespeare,
+and German to read Goethe. This studious youth was
+most patriotic, and the poetry of his country appealed
+to him especially. &Oslash;ehlenschl&auml;ger's (a Danish poet)
+works fired his poetical imagination.</p>
+
+<p>Grundtvig's poems were for the people, the beloved
+Jutland moors and Nature generally his theme. His
+songs and poems are loved by the peasants, and used at
+all their festivals. He wrote songs "that would make
+bare legs skip at sound of them," and, "like a bird in
+the greenwood, he would sing for the country-folk."
+So successfully did he write these folk-songs, that "bare
+legs" do skip at the sound of them even to-day at
+every festivity. He was an educational enthusiast,
+and his high-schools are peculiar to Denmark. It is<a class='page' name='Page_22' id='Page_22' title='22'></a>
+owing to these that the country possesses such a
+splendid band of peasant farmers. Being a priest, he
+was given the honorary title of Bishop, and founded a
+sect called "Grundtvigianere."</p>
+
+<p>This noble man died in 1872, over ninety years of
+age, working and preaching till the last, his deep-set
+eyes, flowing white hair and beard, making him look
+like Moses of old.</p>
+
+<p>Adam &Oslash;ehlenschl&auml;ger, the greatest Danish dramatist
+and poet, was a Professor at the University of Copenhagen,
+and a marvellously gifted man. He developed
+and gave character to Danish literature, and is known
+as the "Goethe of the North." Some of his finest
+tragedies have been translated into English. These have
+a distinctly northern ring about them, dealing as they
+do with the legends and sagas of the Scandinavian
+people. These tragedies of the mythical heroes of
+Scandinavia, the history of their race, and, indeed, all
+the works of this king of northern poets, are greatly
+loved by all Scandinavians. Every young Dane delights
+in &Oslash;ehlenschl&auml;ger as we do in Shakespeare, and by
+reading his works the youths of Denmark lay the
+foundation of their education in poetry. This bard
+was crowned Laureate in Lund (Sweden) by the
+greatest of Swedish poets, Esaias Tegner, 1829.
+Buried by his own request at his birth-place, Frederiksberg,
+two Danish miles (which means eight English
+miles) from Copenhagen, his loving countrymen<a class='page' name='Page_23' id='Page_23' title='23'></a>
+insisted on carrying him the whole distance, so great
+was their admiration for this King of dramatists.</p>
+
+<p>Niels Ryberg Finsen, whose name I am sure you
+have heard because his scientific research gave us the
+"light-cure"&mdash;which has been established at the
+London Hospital by our Queen Alexandra, who
+generously gave the costly apparatus required for the
+cure in order to benefit afflicted English people&mdash;was
+born at Thorshavn, the capital of the Faroe
+Islands. These islands are under Denmark, and lie
+north of the Shetlands. His father was magistrate
+there. His parents were Icelanders. At twelve years
+of age Niels was sent to school in Denmark, and after
+a few years at the Grammar School of Herlufholm, he
+returned to his parents, who were now stationed in their
+native town, Reykjavik, the capital of Iceland. Niels
+continued his studies there, and when old enough
+returned to Denmark to commence his medical work at
+the University of Copenhagen.</p>
+
+<p>Hitherto he had shown no particular aptitude, but
+in his medical work he soon distinguished himself, and
+his skill gained him a place in the laboratory. He
+now began to study the effect of light as a curative
+remedy. All his life Finsen thought the sunlight the
+most beautiful thing in the world&mdash;perhaps because he
+saw so little of it in his childhood. He had watched its
+wonderful effect on all living things, being much
+impressed by the transformation caused in nature by<a class='page' name='Page_24' id='Page_24' title='24'></a>
+the warm life-giving rays. With observations on
+lizards, which he found charmingly responsive to sun
+effects, he accidentally made his discovery, and gave
+to the world this famous remedy for diseases of the
+skin, which has relieved thousands of sufferers of all
+nations.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a class='page' name='Page_25' id='Page_25' title='25'></a><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER V</a></h2>
+
+<h3><a name="LEGENDARY_LORE_AND_FOLK_DANCES" id="LEGENDARY_LORE_AND_FOLK_DANCES"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">LEGENDARY LORE AND FOLK DANCES</a></h3>
+
+
+<p>The legend of Holger Danske, who is to be Denmark's
+deliverer when heavy troubles come upon her, is one
+which has its counterpart in other countries, resembling
+that of our own King Arthur and the German Frederick
+Barbarossa. When Denmark's necessity demands,
+Holger Danske will come to her aid; till then he sits
+"in the deep dark cellar of Kronborg Castle, into
+which none may enter. He is clad in iron and steel,
+and rests his head on his strong arms; his long beard
+hangs down upon the marble table, into which it has
+become firmly rooted; he sleeps and dreams. But in
+his dreams he sees all that happens in Denmark. On
+each Christmas Eve an angel comes to him and tells
+him all he has dreamed is true, and that he may sleep
+again in peace, as Denmark is not yet in real danger.
+But should danger ever come, then Holger Danske
+will rouse himself, and the table will burst asunder as
+he draws out his beard. Then he will come forth in
+all his strength, and strike a blow that shall sound in
+all the countries of the world."</p>
+
+<p><a class='page' name='Page_26' id='Page_26' title='26'></a>Holger Danske was the son of the Danish King
+Gotrick. While he was a youth his father sent him to
+Carolus Magnus, whom he served during all his wars.
+Thus he came to India, where he ate a fruit which made
+his body imperishable. When Denmark is near ruin,
+and all her young men have been slain in defending
+her, then Holger Danske will appear, and, gathering
+round him all the young boys and aged men, will lead
+them on to victory, routing the enemy, and thus saving
+the country. When a little plant growing in the Lake
+of Viborg has become a tree, so large that you can tie
+your horse to it, then the time draws near when all this
+will happen.</p>
+
+<p>Once upon a time the Danes were in great trouble,
+for they had no King. But one day they saw a barque,
+splendidly decked, sailing towards the coast of Denmark.
+As the ship came nearer the shore they saw it was
+laden with quantities of gold and weapons, but not a
+soul was to be seen on board. When the Danes
+boarded the ship, they found a little boy lying asleep on
+the deck, and above his head floated a golden banner.
+Thinking that their god Odin had sent the boy, they
+brought him ashore and proclaimed him King. They
+named him Skjold, and he became a great and good
+King. His fame was such that the Danish Kings to
+this day are called "Skjoldunger." When this King
+died, his body was placed on board a ship which was
+loaded with treasure; and when it sailed slowly away
+over the blue water, the Danes stood on the shore<a class='page' name='Page_27' id='Page_27' title='27'></a>
+looking after it with sorrow. What became of the
+ship no one ever knew.</p>
+
+<p>Denmark is rich in legends. There is the legend
+about the "Danebrog," Denmark's national flag, which
+is a white cross on a crimson ground. This bright and
+beautiful flag looks thoroughly at home whatever its
+surroundings. The story goes that when Valdemar Seir
+(the Victorious) descended on the shores of Esthonia
+to help the knights who were hard pressed in a battle
+with the heathen Esthonians (1219), a miracle befell
+him. The valour of his troops soon made an impression
+on the pagans, and they began to sue for peace. It
+was granted, and the priests baptized the supposed
+converts. Very soon, however, the Esthonians, who
+had been secretly reinforcing while pretending submission,
+in order to throw dust in the eyes of the too
+confiding Danes, brought up their forces and commenced
+fighting anew. "It was the eve of St. Vitus,
+and the Danes were singing Vespers in camp, when
+suddenly a wild howl rang through the summer evening,
+and the heathens poured out of the woods, attacked the
+surprised Danes on all sides, and quickly thinned their
+ranks. The Danes began to waver, but the Prince of
+Rugen, who was stationed on the hill, had time to rally
+his followers and stay the progress of the enemy. It
+was a terrible battle. The Archbishop Andreas Sunesen
+with his priests mounted the hill to lay the sword of
+prayer in the scales of battle; the Danes rallied, and
+their swords were not blunt when they turned upon<a class='page' name='Page_28' id='Page_28' title='28'></a>
+their enemies. Whilst the Archbishop and others
+prayed, the Danes were triumphant; but when his arms
+fell to his side through sheer weariness, the heathens
+prevailed. Then the priests supported the aged man's
+arms, who, like Moses of old, supplicated for his people
+with extended hands. The battle was still raging, and
+the banner of the Danes had been lost in the fight. As
+the prayers continued the miracle happened. A red
+banner, with the Holy Cross in white upon it, came
+floating gently down from the heavens, and a voice
+was heard saying, 'When this sign is borne on high
+you shall conquer.' The tide of battle turned, the
+Christians gathered themselves together under the
+banner of the Cross, and the heathens were filled with
+fear and fled. Then the Danes knelt down on the
+battle-field and praised God, while King Valdemar
+drew his sword, and for the first time under the folds
+of the Danebrog dubbed five-and-thirty of the bravest
+heroes knights." Another legend tells the fate of a
+wicked Queen of Denmark, Gunhild by name. This
+Queen was first the consort of a Norwegian monarch,
+who, finding her more than he or his people could
+stand, thrust her out of his kingdom. She made her
+way to Denmark, and soon after married the Danish
+King. Though beautiful, Queen Gunhild's pride and
+arrogance made her hateful to her new subjects, and
+her attendants watched their opportunity to rid themselves
+of such an obnoxious mistress. The time came
+for them when the Queen was travelling through<a class='page' name='Page_29' id='Page_29' title='29'></a>
+Jutland. A sign was given to her bearers, whilst
+journeying through the marshes near Vejle, to drop
+her down into the bog. This was done, and a stake
+driven through her body. To-day in the church at
+Vejle a body lies enclosed in a glass coffin, with a stake
+lying beside it, the teeth and long black hair being in
+excellent preservation. This body was found in 1821,
+when the marshes near Vejle were being drained for
+cultivation. The stake was found through it, thus
+giving colour to the tradition. Poor Queen! lost
+in the eleventh century and found in the nineteenth.</p>
+
+
+<h3><i>Folk-dancers.</i></h3>
+
+<p>The Danes, like all the Scandinavians, are renowned
+for their love of dancing. Lately they have revived the
+beautiful old folk-dances, realizing at last the necessity
+of keeping the ancient costumes, dances and songs before
+the people, if they would not have them completely
+wiped out. A few patriotic Danes have formed a society
+of ladies and gentlemen to bring about this revival.
+These are called the folk-dancers, their object being to
+stimulate the love of old-time Denmark in the modern
+Dane, by showing him the dance, accompanied by folk-song,
+which his forefathers delighted in. Old-time
+ways the Dane of to-day is perhaps a little too ready
+to forget, but dance and song appeal to his northern
+nature. The beautiful old costumes of the Danish
+peasants have almost entirely disappeared, but those<a class='page' name='Page_30' id='Page_30' title='30'></a>
+worn by the folk-dancers are facsimiles of the costumes
+formerly worn in the districts they represent. These
+costumes, with heavy gold embroidery, curious hats, or
+pretty velvet caps, weighty with silver lace, must have
+been a great addition to local colouring. The men also
+wore a gay dress, and it is to be regretted that these old
+costumes have disappeared from the villages and islands
+of Denmark.</p>
+
+<p>In olden times the voice was the principal accompaniment
+of the dance, and these folk-lorists generally sing
+while dancing; but occasionally a fiddler or flautist plays
+for them, and becomes the leader in the dance. Some
+of these dances are of a comical nature, and no doubt
+were invented to parody the shortcomings of some local
+character. Others represent local industries. A pretty
+dance is "V&oelig;ve Vadmel" (cloth-weaving). In this
+some dancers become the bobbins, others form the warp
+and woof; thus they go in and out, weaving themselves
+into an imaginary piece of cloth. Then, rolling themselves
+into a bale, they stand a moment, unwind, reverse,
+and then disperse. This dance is accompanied by the
+voices of the dancers, who, as they sing, describe each
+movement of the dance. A very curious dance is called
+"Seven Springs," and its principal figure is a series of
+springs from the floor, executed by the lady, aided by
+her partner. Another two are called respectively the
+"Men's Pleasure" and the "Girls' Pleasure." In these
+both men and girls choose their own partners, and
+coquet with them by alluring facial expressions during<a class='page' name='Page_31' id='Page_31' title='31'></a>
+the dance. The "Tinker's Dance" is a solo dance for
+a man, which is descriptive and amusing; while the
+"Degnedans" is more an amusing performance in
+pantomime than a dance, executed by two men. Many
+more than I can tell you about have been revived by
+the folk-dancers, who take a keen delight in discovering
+and learning them. They are entertaining and instructive
+to the looker-on, and a healthy, though fatiguing,
+amusement for the dancers.</p>
+
+<p>In the Faroe Islands the old-time way is still in vogue,
+and the dance is only accompanied by the voice and
+clapping of hands. Thus do these descendants of the
+old vikings keep high festival to celebrate a good
+"catch" of whales.</p>
+
+<p>The old folk-songs, which were sung by the people
+when dancing and at other times, have a national value
+which the Danes fully realize, many being written
+down and treasured in the country's archives.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a class='page' name='Page_32' id='Page_32' title='32'></a><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER VI</a></h2>
+
+<h3><a name="MANNERS_AND_CUSTOMS" id="MANNERS_AND_CUSTOMS"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">MANNERS AND CUSTOMS</a></h3>
+
+
+<p>The Danes being a polite and well-mannered race, the
+children are early taught to tender thanks for little
+pleasures, and this they do in a pretty way by thrusting
+out their tiny hands and saying, "Tak" (Thank
+you). It is the Danish custom to greet everybody,
+including the servants, with "Good-morning," and
+always on entering a shop you give greeting, and say
+farewell on leaving. In the market-place it is the same;
+also the children, when leaving school, raise their caps
+to the teacher and call out, "Farvel! farvel!" In the
+majority of houses when the people rise from the table
+they say, "Tak for Mad"<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> to the host, who replies,
+"Velbekomme."<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> The children kiss their parents and
+say the same, while the parents often kiss each other
+and say, "Velbekomme." The Danes are rather too
+eager to wipe out old customs, and in Copenhagen the
+fashionable people ignore this pretty ceremony. The
+majority, however, feel uncomfortable if not allowed to
+thank their host or hostess for their food.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="CHILDREN_DAY" id="CHILDREN_DAY"></a>
+<a class='fig' href="images/illus003.jpg"><img src="images/illus003-tb.jpg" width="400" height="509" alt="CHILDREN&#39;S DAY." title="CHILDREN&#39;S DAY. (click to enhance)" /></a>
+<span class="caption">CHILDREN&#39;S DAY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A Danish lady, about to visit England for the first<a class='page' name='Page_33' id='Page_33' title='33'></a>
+time, was told that here it was customary to say "Grace"
+after meals. The surprise of the English host may be
+imagined when his Danish guest, on rising from the table,
+solemnly put out her hand and murmured the word
+"Grace!" After a day or two, when this ceremony had
+been most dutifully performed after every meal, the
+Englishman thought he had better ask for an explanation.
+This was given, and the young Dane joined
+heartily in the laugh against herself!</p>
+
+<p>The Danes begin their day with a light breakfast of
+coffee, fresh rolls, and butter, but the children generally
+have porridge, or "&ouml;llebr&ouml;d," before starting for school.
+This distinctly Danish dish is made of rye-bread, beer,
+milk, cream, and sometimes with the addition of a
+beaten-up egg. This "Ske-Mad"<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> is very sustaining,
+but I fear would prove a little too much for those unaccustomed
+to it. &Oslash;llebr&ouml;d also is the favourite Saturday
+supper-dish of the working-classes, with the addition of
+salt herrings and slices of raw onion, which doubtless
+renders it more piquant.</p>
+
+<p>At noon "Mid-dag"<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> is served. Another peculiar
+delicacy common both to this meal and supper is
+"Sm&ouml;rrebr&ouml;d," a "variety" sandwich consisting of a
+slice of bread and butter covered with sausage, ham,
+fish, meat, cheese, etc. making a tempting display, not
+hidden as in our sandwich by a top layer of bread. The
+Danes are very hospitable, and often invite poor students
+to dine with them regularly once a week. Dinner<a class='page' name='Page_34' id='Page_34' title='34'></a>
+consists of excellent soup (in summer made of fruit or
+preserves), meat, pudding or fruit, and cream, and even
+the poorest have coffee after this meal.</p>
+
+<p>Prunes, stewed plums or apples, and sometimes
+cranberry jam, are always served with the meat or
+game course, together with excellent but rather rich
+sauce. The Danish housewife prides herself on the
+latter, as her cooking abilities are often judged by the
+quality of her sauces. It is quite usual for the Danish
+ladies to spend some months in learning cooking and
+housekeeping in a large establishment to complete
+their education.</p>
+
+<p>"V&aelig;r saa god"<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> says the maid or waiter when
+handing you anything, and this formula is repeated by
+everyone when they wish you to enter a room, or, in
+fact, to do anything.</p>
+
+<p>Birthdays and other anniversaries are much thought
+of in Denmark. The "F&ouml;delsdagsbarn"<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> is generally
+given pretty bouquets or pots of flowers, as well as
+presents. Flowers are used on every joyous occasion.
+Students, both men and women, may be seen almost
+covered with bright nosegays, given by their friends to
+celebrate any examination successfully passed.</p>
+
+<p>Christmas Eve, and not Christmas Day, is the festive
+occasion in Denmark. Everybody, including the poorest,
+must have a Christmas-tree, and roast goose, apple-cake,
+rice porridge with an almond in it, form the
+banquet. The lucky person who finds the almond<a class='page' name='Page_35' id='Page_35' title='35'></a>
+receives an extra present, and much mirth is occasioned
+by the search. The tree is lighted at dusk, and the
+children dance round it and sing. This performance
+opens the festivities; then the presents are given,
+dinner served, and afterwards the young people dance.</p>
+
+<p>Christmas Day is kept quietly, but the day after
+(St. Stephen's Day) is one of merriment and gaiety,
+when the people go from house to house to greet their
+friends and "skaal" with them.</p>
+
+<p>New Year's Eve brings a masque ball for the young
+folk, a supper, fireworks, and at midnight a clinking of
+glasses, when healths are drunk in hot punch.</p>
+
+<p>On Midsummer's Night fires are lighted all over the
+country, and people gather together to watch the burning
+of the tar-barrels. Near a lake or on the seashore
+the reflections glinting on the water make a strangely
+brilliant sight. On some of the fjords a water carnival
+makes a pretty addition to these fires, which the children
+are told have been lighted to scare the witches!</p>
+
+<p>The Monday before Lent is a holiday in all the
+schools. Early in the morning the children, provided
+with decorated sticks, "fastelavns Ris," rouse their
+parents and others from slumber. All who are found
+asleep after a certain time must pay a forfeit of Lenten
+buns. Later in the day the children dress themselves
+up in comical costume and parade the streets, asking
+money from the passer-by as our children do on Guy
+Fawkes' Day.</p>
+
+<p>A holy-day peculiar to Denmark is called "Store<a class='page' name='Page_36' id='Page_36' title='36'></a>-Bededag"
+(Great Day of Prayer), on the eve of which
+(Danes keep eves of festivals only) the church bells
+ring and the people promenade in their best clothes.
+"Store-Bededag" is the fourth Friday after Easter, and all
+business is at a standstill, so that the people can attend
+church. On Whit-Sunday some of the young folks rise
+early to see the sun dance on the water and wash
+their faces in the dew. This is in preparation for the
+greatest holiday in the year, Whit-Monday, when
+all give themselves up to outdoor pleasure.</p>
+
+<p>"Grundlovsdag," which is kept in commemoration
+of the granting of a free Constitution to the nation by
+Frederik VII., gives the town bands and trade-unions
+an opportunity to parade the streets and display their
+capability in playing national music. "Children's Day"
+is a school holiday, and the children dress in the old
+picturesque Danish costumes; they then go about the
+town and market-places begging alms for the sanatoriums
+in their collecting-boxes. In this way a large
+sum is collected for these charities.</p>
+
+<p>"Knocking-the-cat-out-of-the-barrel" is an old
+custom of the peasantry which takes place the Monday
+before Lent. The young men dress themselves gaily,
+and, armed with wooden clubs, hie them to the village
+green. Here a barrel is suspended with a cat inside it.
+Each man knocks the barrel with his club as he runs
+underneath it, and he who knocks a hole big enough
+to liberate poor puss is the victor. The grotesque
+costumes, the difficulty of stooping and running under<a class='page' name='Page_37' id='Page_37' title='37'></a>
+the barrel in them, when all your energies and attention
+are required for the blow, result in many a comical
+catastrophe, which the bystanders enjoy heartily. Puss
+is frightened, but not hurt, and I think it would be
+just as amusing without the cat, but the Danish peasants
+think otherwise. Another pastime which takes place
+on the same day is called "ring-riding." The men,
+wearing paper hats and gay ribbons, gallop round the
+course, trying to snatch a suspended ring in passing.
+The man who takes the ring three times in succession is
+called "King," he who takes it twice "Prince." When
+the sport is over, King and Prince, with their train
+of unsuccessful competitors, ride round to the farms and
+demand refreshment for their gay cavalcade, of which
+"&AElig;leskiver," a peasant delicacy, washed down by a
+glass of aqua-vit&aelig;, forms a part.</p>
+
+<p>On the eve of "Valborg's Dag" (May-Day) bonfires
+are lighted, and the young Danes have a dinner and
+dance given to them. Each dance is so long that it is
+customary for the young men to change their partners
+two or three times during the waltz.</p>
+
+<p>A beautiful custom is still preserved among the older
+peasantry: when they cross the threshold of their neighbour's
+house they say, "God's peace be in this house."</p>
+
+<p>All domestic servants, students, and other people
+who reside away from home for a time, take about with
+them a chest of drawers as well as a trunk. I suppose
+they find this necessary, because in Denmark a chest of
+drawers is seldom provided in a bedroom.</p>
+
+<p><a class='page' name='Page_38' id='Page_38' title='38'></a>When the first snowdrops appear, the boys and girls
+gather some and enclose them in a piece of paper, on
+which is written a poem. This "Vinterg&aelig;kke-Brev,"
+which they post to their friends, is signed by ink-spots,
+as numerous as the letters in their name. The friend
+must guess the name of the sender within a week, or the
+latter demands a gift.</p>
+
+<p>Confirmation means coming-out in Denmark. As
+this is the greatest festival of youth, the young folk are
+loaded with presents; then girls put up their hair and
+boys begin to smoke.</p>
+
+<p>The marriage of a daughter is an expensive affair for
+parents in Denmark, as they are supposed to find all
+the home for the bride, as well as the trousseau. The
+wedding-ring is worn by both while engaged, as well as
+after the marriage ceremony.</p>
+
+<p>The Epiphany is celebrated in many homes by the
+burning of three candles, and the children are given a
+holiday on this, the festival of the Three Kings. No
+doubt you know this is a commemoration of the three
+wise men of the East presenting their offerings of
+gold, frankincense, and myrrh to our Lord.</p>
+
+<p>Storks are considered the sacred birds of Denmark.
+These harbingers of good-luck the children take great
+interest in, and more especially in the growth of the
+stork family on the roof-tree.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a class='page' name='Page_39' id='Page_39' title='39'></a><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER VII</a></h2>
+
+<h3><a name="A_JAUNT_THROUGH_JUTLAND_I" id="A_JAUNT_THROUGH_JUTLAND_I"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND&mdash;I</a></h3>
+
+
+<p>Jutland is the only province left to Denmark which
+can claim to be mainland, and though it is the most
+northern part of the country, some of its scenery is
+very beautiful.</p>
+
+<p>The "Jyde," as the people of Jutland are called, are
+proud of their birthplace, of their language, and of their
+pronunciation, which the Copenhageners call "accent,"
+but the Jyde declare they speak the purest Danish
+in the kingdom. However this may be, I am not in a
+position to judge, but I do know that I can understand
+the Jyde Danish better, and that it falls upon
+my ear with a more pleasing sound than does the
+Danish of the Copenhageners.</p>
+
+<p>The east coast of Jutland is quite charming, so
+we will start our tour from the first interesting spot
+on this route, and try to obtain a glimpse of the
+country.</p>
+
+<p>In Kolding stands a famous castle, which was partially
+burnt down in 1808. This gigantic ruin is now
+covered in, and used as an historical museum for war
+relics.</p>
+
+<p><a class='page' name='Page_40' id='Page_40' title='40'></a>Fredericia is a very important place. Here that part
+of the train which contains the goods, luggage, and
+mails, as well as the first-class passenger carriages for
+Copenhagen, is shunted on to the large steam ferry-boat
+waiting to receive it. This carries it across the smiling
+waters of the Little Belt. A fresh engine then takes it
+across the island of Funen to the steam-ferry waiting to
+carry it across the Great Belt to Kors&ouml;r, on the shores
+of Seeland, when a locomotive takes the train to
+Copenhagen in the ordinary way. These steam-ferries
+are peculiar to Denmark, and are specially built and
+equipped for this work. Danish enterprise overcomes
+the difficulties of transport through a kingdom of
+islands by these ferries.</p>
+
+<p>Fredericia is an old fortified town with mighty city
+walls, which make a fine promenade for the citizens,
+giving them a charming view of the Little Belt's sunlit
+waters. In this town the Danes won a glorious victory
+over the Prussians in 1849.</p>
+
+<p>Vejle is one of the most picturesque places on the
+east coast. Along the Vejlefjord the tall, straight
+pines of Jutland are reflected in the cool, still depths of
+blue water, and the tiniest of puffing steamers will carry
+you over to Munkebjerg. The fascinating and famous
+Munkebjerg Forest is very beautiful&mdash;a romantic place
+in which the youthful lovers of Denmark delight.
+These glorious beech woods extend for miles, the
+trees sloping down to the water's edge from a high
+ridge, whence you have a magnificent view of the glitter<a class='page' name='Page_41' id='Page_41' title='41'></a>ing
+fjord. Most inviting are these cool green shades on a
+hot summer's day, but when clothed in the glowing
+tints of autumn they present to the eye a feast of
+gorgeous colour. A golden and warm brown carpet
+of crisp, crackling leaves underfoot, the lap of the
+fjord as a steamer ploughs along, sending the water
+hissing through the bowing reeds which fringe the
+bank, make the soothing sounds which fall on lovers'
+ears as they wander through these pleasant glades.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="HARVEST_TIME" id="HARVEST_TIME"></a>
+<a class='fig' href="images/illus004.jpg"><img src="images/illus004-tb.jpg" width="400" height="293" alt="HARVEST TIME." title="HARVEST TIME. (click to enhance)" /></a>
+<span class="caption">HARVEST TIME.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In winter this forest is left to the snow and hoarfrost,
+and cold, cairn beauty holds it fast for many days.</p>
+
+<p>The pretty hotel of Munkebjerg, standing on the
+summit of the ridge, which you espy through a clearing
+in the trees, is reached by some scores of steps from the
+landing-stage. Patient "Moses," the hotel luggage-carrier,
+awaits the prospective guests at the pier. This
+handsome brown donkey is quite a character, and
+mounts gaily his own private zigzag path leading to
+the hotel when heavily laden. His dejection, however,
+when returning with empty panniers, is accounted
+for by the circumstance of "No load, no carrot!" at
+the end of the climb.</p>
+
+<p>Grejsdal is another beautiful spot inland from the
+fjord, past which the primitive local train takes us to
+Jellinge. In this quaint upland village stand the two
+great barrows, the reputed graves of King Gorm and
+Queen Thyra, his wife, the great-grandparents of
+Canute the Great, the Danish King who ruled over
+England for twenty years. A beautiful Norman church<a class='page' name='Page_42' id='Page_42' title='42'></a>
+stands between these barrows, and two massive Runic
+stones tell that "Harald the King commanded this
+memorial to be raised to Gorm, his Father, and Thyra,
+his Mother: the Harald who conquered the whole of
+Denmark and Norway, and Christianized the Danes."
+Steps lead to the top of these grassy barrows, and so
+large are they that over a thousand men can stand at
+the top. The village children use them as a playground
+occasionally.</p>
+
+<p>Skanderborg, which is prettily situated on a lake, is
+a celebrated town. Here a famous siege took place,
+in which the valiant Niels Ebbesen fell, after freeing
+his country from the tyrannical rule of the German
+Count Gert.</p>
+
+<p>Aarhus, the capital of Jutland, is the second oldest
+town in Denmark. Its interesting cathedral is the
+longest in the kingdom, and was built in the twelfth
+century. The town possesses a magnificent harbour,
+on the Cattegat, the shores of which make a pleasant
+promenade.</p>
+
+<p>Randers is a pretty place, with many quaint
+thatched houses belonging to the sixteenth, seventeenth,
+and eighteenth centuries. The Gudenaa,
+Denmark's only river, skirts the town. This river is
+narrow and slow-moving, as there are no heights to
+give it force.</p>
+
+<p>Hobro, situated on a fjord, wears an air of seclusion,
+lying as it does far away from the railway-station. A
+sail on this fjord will bring us to Mariager, the smallest<a class='page' name='Page_43' id='Page_43' title='43'></a>
+town in Denmark. Renowned are the magnificent
+beech-woods and ancient abbey of this tiny town. In
+the surroundings we have a panoramic view of typical
+Jutish scenery&mdash;a charming landscape in the sunset
+glow, forest, fjord, farmsteads, and moor affording a
+rich variety of still life.</p>
+
+<p>Aalborg, the delightful old market town on the
+Limfjord, is fascinating, especially at night, when its
+myriad lamps throw long shafts of light across the water.
+Scattered through the town are many old half-timbered
+houses. These beautiful buildings, with their cream-coloured
+rough-cast walls, oak beams, richly carved
+overhanging eaves, and soft-red tiled roofs, show little
+evidence of the ravages of time. The most famous of
+these houses was built, in the seventeenth century, by
+Jens Bang, an apothecary. The chemist's shop occupies
+the large ground-floor room, the windows of which
+have appropriate key-stones. On one is carved a man's
+head with swollen face, another with a lolling tongue,
+and similar grotesques.</p>
+
+<p>To be an idler and watch the traffic going to and fro
+over the pontoon bridge which spans the Limfjord is
+a delightful way of passing the time. Warmed by the
+sun and fanned by the breezes which blow along the
+fjord, you may be amused and interested for hours by
+the life that streams past you. Occasionally the traffic
+is impeded by the bridge being opened to allow the
+ships to pass through. Small vessels can in this way
+save time and avoid the danger of rounding the north<a class='page' name='Page_44' id='Page_44' title='44'></a>
+point of Jutland. If you look at your map you will
+see that this fjord cuts through Jutland, thus making a
+short passage from the Cattegat to the North Sea.</p>
+
+<p>Jutland north of the Limfjord is called Vendsyssel.
+Curious effects of mirage may be seen in summer-time
+in the extensive "Vildmose"<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> of this district.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a class='page' name='Page_45' id='Page_45' title='45'></a><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER VIII</a></h2>
+
+<h3><a name="A_JAUNT_THROUGH_JUTLAND_II" id="A_JAUNT_THROUGH_JUTLAND_II"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND&mdash;II</a></h3>
+
+<p>As we pass through Vendsyssel homely farmsteads and
+windmills add a charm to the landscape, while tethered
+kine and sportive goats complete a picture of rural life.</p>
+
+<p>When we arrive at Frederikshavn we come to the
+end of the State railway. This terminus lies close to
+the port, which is an important place of call for the large
+passenger and cargo steamers bound for Norway and
+other countries, as well as being a refuge for the fishing-fleet.</p>
+
+<p>A slow-moving local train takes us across the sandy
+wastes to Skagen, a straggling village, with the dignity
+of royal borough, bestowed upon it by Queen Margaret,
+in the fourteenth century, as a reward to the brave
+fishermen who saved from shipwreck some of her kins-folk.
+Skagen is a picturesque and interesting place, the
+home of many artists, as well as a noted seaside resort.</p>
+
+<p>Br&ouml;ndum's Hotel, a celebrated hostelry, where the
+majority of visitors and artists stay, is a delightfully
+comfortable, homely dwelling. The dining-room,
+adorned with many specimens of the artists' work, is a
+unique and interesting picture-gallery.</p>
+
+<p><a class='page' name='Page_46' id='Page_46' title='46'></a>On the outskirts of the town the white tower of the
+old church of Skagen may be seen peeping over the
+sand-dunes. This "stepped" tower, with its red-tiled,
+saddle-back roof, forms a striking feature in this weird
+and lonely landscape. The church itself is buried
+beneath the sand, leaving only the tower to mark the
+place that is called the "Pompeii of Denmark," sand,
+not lava, being answerable for this entombment. It is
+said that the village which surrounded the church was
+buried by a sandstorm in the fourteenth century. This
+scene of desolation, on a windy day, when the "sand
+fiend" revels and riots, is best left to the booming surf
+and avoided by those who do not wish to be blinded.</p>
+
+<p>To the south of Skagen lie other curious phenomena
+created by this "Storm King." The "Raabjerg Miler"
+are vast and characteristic dunes of powdery sand in
+long ridges, like huge waves petrified in the very act of
+turning over! In the neighbouring quicksands trees
+have been planted, but refuse to grow.</p>
+
+<p>Viborg, the old capital of Jutland, possesses an historically
+interesting cathedral. In the crypt stands the
+tomb of King Eric Glipping, as well as those of other
+monarchs. The interior of the cathedral is decorated
+with fine frescoes by modern artists.</p>
+
+<p>As we journey to Silkeborg we pass through the vast
+heathland, "Alhede," and are impressed by the plodding
+perseverance of the heath-folk. The marvellous enterprise
+of the Danes who started and have so successfully
+carried out the cultivation of these barren tracts of land<a class='page' name='Page_47' id='Page_47' title='47'></a>
+deserves admiration. The convicts are employed in
+this work, planting, trenching, and digging, making
+this waste land ready for the farmer. These men have
+a cap with a visor-like mask, which can be pulled over
+the face at will. This shields the face from the cold
+blasts so prevalent on these moors; also, it prevents the
+prying eyes of strangers or fellow-workers.</p>
+
+<p>Many baby forests are being nursed into sturdy
+growth, as a protection for farm-lands from the sand
+and wind storms.</p>
+
+<p>This monotonous-looking heath is not without beauty;
+indeed, it has a melancholy charm for those who dwell
+on it. The children love it when the heather is in
+bloom, and spend happy days gathering berries from
+out of the gorgeous purple carpet. The great stacks of
+peat drying in the sun denote that this is the principal
+fuel of the moor-folk.</p>
+
+<p>From Silkeborg we start to see the Himmelbjerget,
+the mountain of this flat country. It rises to a height
+of five hundred feet, being the highest point in Denmark.</p>
+
+<p>'Tis the joy and pride of the Danes, who select this
+mountain and lake district before all others for their
+honeymoons!</p>
+
+<p>A curious paddle-boat, worked by hand, or a small
+motor-boat will take us over the lake to the foot of
+Himmelbjerget. Our motor-boat, with fussy throb,
+carries us away down the narrow river which opens
+into the lake. The life on the banks of the river is
+very interesting. As we sail past the pretty villas, with<a class='page' name='Page_48' id='Page_48' title='48'></a>
+background of cool, green beech-woods, we notice that
+a Danish garden must always have a summer-house to
+make it complete. In these garden-rooms the Danes
+take all their meals in summer-time. The drooping
+branches of the beech-trees dip, swish, and bend to the
+swirl of water created by our boat, which makes miniature
+waves leap and run along the bank in a playful
+way. How delightfully peaceful the surrounding landscape
+is as we skim over the silvery lake and then land!
+The climbing of this mountain does not take long.
+There is a splendid view from the top of Himmelbjerget,
+for the country lies spread out like a map before us.
+This lake district is very beautiful, and when the ling is
+in full bloom, the heather and forest-clad hills encircling
+the lakes blaze with colour.</p>
+
+<p>At Silkeborg the River Gudenaa flows through the
+lakes Kunds&ouml; and Juls&ouml;, becoming navigable, but it is
+only used by small boats and barges for transporting
+wood from the forests. The termination "S&ouml;" means
+lake, while "A&auml;" means stream. Steen Steensen
+Blicher, the poet of Jutland, has described this scenery,
+which he loved so much, quite charmingly in some of
+his lyrical poems. He sings:</p>
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border='0'><tr><td align='left'>
+"The Danes have their homes where the fair beeches grow,<br />
+By shores where forget-me-nots cluster."<br />
+</td></tr></table></div>
+
+<p>This poet did much to encourage the home industries
+of the moor-dwellers, being in sympathy with them, as
+well as with their lonely moorlands.</p>
+
+<p><a class='page' name='Page_49' id='Page_49' title='49'></a>The old-time moor-dwellers' habitations have become
+an interesting museum in Herning. This little mid-Jutland
+town is in the centre of the moors, so its
+museum contains a unique collection from the homes of
+these sturdy peasants. The amount of delicate needlework
+these lonely, thrifty folks accomplished in the
+long winter days is surprising. This "Hedebo" needlework
+is the finest stitchery you can well imagine,
+wrought on home-spun linen with flaxen thread. Such
+marvellous patterns and intricate designs! Little wonder
+that the best examples are treasured by the nation.
+The men of the family wore a white linen smock for
+weddings and great occasions. So thickly are these overwrought
+with needlework that they will stand alone,
+and seem to have a woman's lifetime spent upon them.
+Needless to say, these family garments were handed
+down as heirlooms from father to son.</p>
+
+<p>Knitting, weaving, the making of Jyde pottery and
+wooden shoes (which all wear), are among the other
+industries of these people.</p>
+
+<p>As we journey through Skjern and down the west
+coast to Esbjerg, the end of our journey, we notice the
+picturesque attire of the field-workers. An old shepherd,
+with vivid blue shirt and sleeveless brown coat, with
+white straggling locks streaming over his shoulders,
+tends his few sheep. This clever old man is doing
+three things at once&mdash;minding his sheep, smoking his
+pipe, and knitting a stocking. The Danes are great
+knitters, men and women being equally good at it.<a class='page' name='Page_50' id='Page_50' title='50'></a>
+Many girls are working in the fields, their various
+coloured garments making bright specks on the landscape.
+Occasionally a bullock-cart slowly drags its way
+across the field-road, laden with clattering milk-cans.
+We pass flourishing farmsteads, with storks' nests on
+the roofs. The father-stork, standing on one leg,
+keeping guard over his young, looks pensively out over
+the moors, thinking, no doubt, that soon it will not
+be worth his while to come all the way from Egypt to
+find frogs in the marshes! For the indefatigable Dalgas
+has roused the dilatory Danes to such good purpose
+that soon the marshes and waste lands of Jutland will
+be no more.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a class='page' name='Page_51' id='Page_51' title='51'></a><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER IX</a></h2>
+
+<h3><a name="THE_PEOPLES_AMUSEMENTS" id="THE_PEOPLES_AMUSEMENTS"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">THE PEOPLE'S AMUSEMENTS</a></h3>
+
+
+<p>"Have you been in Tivoli?" is the first question a
+Copenhagener would ask you on your arrival in the gay
+capital. If not, your Danish friend will carry you off
+to see these beautiful pleasure-gardens. Tivoli is for
+all classes, and is the most popular place of amusement
+in Denmark. This delightful summer resort is the place
+of all others in which to study the jovial side of the
+Danish character. Even the King and his royal visitors
+occasionally pay visits, incognito, to these fascinating
+gardens, taking their "sixpenn'orth of fun" with the
+people, whose good manners would never allow them to
+take the slightest notice of their monarch when he is
+enjoying himself in this way. To children Tivoli is
+the ideal Sunday treat. Every taste is catered for at
+Tivoli, and the Saturday classical concerts have become
+famous, for one of the Danes' chief pleasures is good
+music. Tivoli becomes fairyland when illuminated with
+its myriad lights outlining the buildings and gleaming
+through the trees. The light-hearted gaiety of the
+Dane is very infectious, and the stranger is irresistibly
+caught by it. The atmosphere of unalloyed merriment<a class='page' name='Page_52' id='Page_52' title='52'></a>
+which pervades when tables are spread under the
+trees for the alfresco supper is distinctly exhilarating.
+These gardens have amusements for the frivolous also,
+such as switchbacks, pantomimes of the "Punch and
+Judy" kind, and frequently firework displays, which
+last entertainment generally concludes the evening.</p>
+
+<p>The Royal Theatre in Copenhagen is a national school
+of patriotism, and the healthy spirit of its plays has an
+ennobling effect on the people. Everything is Danish
+here, and Denmark is the only small nation in Europe
+which has successfully founded a national dramatic art.
+The "Moli&egrave;re of the North," Ludwig Holberg, was
+the father of the Danish drama, and the first to make
+the people realize the beauty of their own language.
+This gifted Dane was a great comedy-writer, and had
+the faculty of making his fellows see the comic side of
+their follies.</p>
+
+<p>The "Royal Ballet" played at this theatre is quite
+distinctive. Bournonville, its creator, was a poet who
+expressed himself in motion instead of words, and these
+"dumb poems" appeal strongly to the Scandinavian
+character. This poet aimed at something more than
+spectacular effects upon the people: his art consisted in
+presenting instructive tableaux, which, while holding
+the attention of his audience, taught them their traditional
+history. The delicate daintiness of the Danish
+ballet everyone must appreciate. The exquisite and
+intricate dances, together with the magnificent tableaux,
+are accompanied by wild and magical music of Danish<a class='page' name='Page_53' id='Page_53' title='53'></a>
+composition. Bournonville ballets represent scenes
+from classical mythology, as well as from ancient
+Scandinavian history, and the Danish people are much
+attached to this Northern composer of ballet. "Ei
+blot til Lyst"&mdash;Not only for pleasure&mdash;is the motto
+over this National Theatre door, and it is in the Ballet
+School here that the young Danes begin their training.
+These young folk take great pleasure in learning the
+beautiful dances, as well as in the operatic and dramatic
+work which they have to study, for they must serve a
+certain period in this, as in any other profession.</p>
+
+<p>Another place of amusement which gives pleasure to
+many of the poorer people is the Working Men's
+Theatre. Actors, musicians, as well as the entire
+management, are all of the working classes, who are
+trained in the evenings by professionals. The result
+is quite wonderful, and proves the pleasure and interest
+these working people take in their tuition, and how
+their artistic abilities are developed by it. On Sundays,
+and occasionally in the week, a performance is given,
+when the working classes crowd into the theatre to see
+their fellows perform. This entertainment only costs
+sixpence for good seats, drama and farce being the
+representations most appreciated. Notwithstanding
+that smoking is prohibited during the performances&mdash;a
+rule which you would think no Dane could tolerate,
+being seldom seen without pipe or cigarette&mdash;it is a
+great success, and denotes that their love of the play is
+greater than their pleasure in the weed.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a class='page' name='Page_54' id='Page_54' title='54'></a><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER X</a></h2>
+
+<h3><a name="FARM_LIFE_BUTTER-MAKINGmdashHEDESELSKABET" id="FARM_LIFE_BUTTER-MAKINGmdashHEDESELSKABET"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">FARM LIFE&mdash;BUTTER-MAKING&mdash;"HEDESELSKABET"</a></h3>
+
+
+<p>Farming in Denmark is the most important industry
+of the kingdom, and gives employment to half the
+nation. The peasant is very enlightened and advanced
+in his methods; agricultural and farm products form the
+principal exports of the country. England takes the
+greater part of this produce. Three or four times a
+week the ships leave Esbjerg&mdash;this port being the only
+Danish one not blocked by ice during some part of the
+winter&mdash;for the English ports, laden with butter, bacon
+and eggs for the London market. Now, why can the
+Danish farmer, whose land is poorer and his climate
+more severe than ours, produce so much? Education,
+co-operation and the help given by the State to small
+farmers lay the foundation, so the Danes will tell you,
+of the farmer's prosperity. The thrift and industry of
+the peasant farmer is quite astonishing. He is able to
+bring up a large, well-educated family and live comfortably
+on seven or eight acres of land; whereas in
+England we are told that three acres will not keep a
+cow! The Danish farmer makes six acres keep two
+cows, many chickens, some pigs, himself, wife and<a class='page' name='Page_55' id='Page_55' title='55'></a>
+family, and there is never any evidence of poverty on
+these small farms&mdash;quite the reverse. The farmer is
+strong and wiry, his wife fine and buxom, and his
+children sturdy, well-cared-for little urchins. All,
+however, must work&mdash;and work very hard&mdash;both with
+head and hands to produce this splendid result. The
+Danish farmer grows a rapid rotation of crops for his
+animals, manuring heavily after each crop, and never
+allowing his land to lie fallow as we do. On these
+small farms there is practically no grass-land; hedges
+and fences are unnecessary as the animals are always
+tethered when grazing. Omission of hedges is more
+economical also, making it possible to cultivate every
+inch of land. There is nothing wasted on a Danish farm.
+Many large flourishing farms also exist in Denmark,
+with acres of both meadow and arable land, just as in
+England; but the peasant farmer is the interesting
+example of the Danish system of legislation. The
+Government helps this small holder by every means in
+its power to become a freehold farmer should he be
+willing and thrifty enough to try.</p>
+
+<p>The typical Danish farmstead is built in the form of
+a square, three sides of which are occupied by the sheds
+for the animals, the fourth side being the dwelling-house,
+which is generally connected with the sheds by
+a covered passage&mdash;a cosy arrangement for all, as in
+bad weather the farmer need not go outside to attend
+to the animals, while the latter benefit by the warmth
+from the farmhouse.</p>
+
+<p><a class='page' name='Page_56' id='Page_56' title='56'></a>The Danes would never speak crossly to a cow or
+call her by other than her own name, which is generally
+printed on a board over her stall. The cow, in fact, is
+the domestic pet of the Danish farm. In the winter
+these animals are taken for a daily walk wearing their
+winter coats of jute!</p>
+
+<p>These small farmers realize that "Union is Strength,"
+and have built up for themselves a marvellous system
+of co-operation. This brings the market literally to the
+door of the peasant farmer. Carts collect the farm
+produce daily and transport it to the nearest factories
+belonging to this co-operation of farmers. At these
+factories the milk is turned into delicious butter, the
+eggs are examined by electric light, and "Mr. Pig"
+quickly changes his name to Bacon! These three
+commodities form the most remunerative products of
+the farm.</p>
+
+<p>The Danish farmer is a strong believer in education,
+thanks to the Grundtvig High-schools. Bishop
+Grundtvig started these schools for the benefit of the
+sons and daughters of yeomen. When winter comes,
+and outside farm-work is at a standstill, the farmer and
+his family attend these schools to learn new methods of
+farming and dairy-work. The farmer's children are
+early taught to take a hand and interest themselves in
+the farm-work. The son, when school is over for the
+day, must help to feed the live-stock, do a bit of spade-work
+or carpentering, and perhaps a little book-keeping
+before bedtime. These practical lessons develop in<a class='page' name='Page_57' id='Page_57' title='57'></a>
+the lad a love of farm-work and a pride in helping on
+the family resources.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="VAGT-PARADEN" id="VAGT-PARADEN"></a>
+<a class='fig' href="images/illus005.jpg"><img src="images/illus005-tb.jpg" width="400" height="493" alt="VAGT-PARADEN. LIFEGUARDS DRAWING UP OUTSIDE
+THE PALACE." title="VAGT-PARADEN. (click to enhance)" /></a>
+<span class="caption">VAGT-PARADEN. LIFEGUARDS DRAWING UP OUTSIDE
+THE PALACE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Butter-making is an interesting sight at the
+splendidly equipped steam-factories, and we all know
+that Danish butter is renowned for its excellence.
+When the milk is weighed and tested it runs into a
+large receiver, thence to the separator; from there the
+cream flows into the scalder, and pours over the ice
+frame in a rich cool stream into a wooden vat.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile the separated milk has returned through
+a pipe to the waiting milk-cans and is given back to
+the farmer, who utilizes it to feed his calves and pigs.
+The cream leaves the vat for the churn through a
+wooden channel, and when full the churn is set in
+motion. This combined churn and butter-worker
+completes the process of butter-making, and when the
+golden mass is taken out it is ready to be packed for
+the English market. The milk, on being received at
+the factory, is weighed and paid for according to weight.
+It takes 25 lbs. of milk to make 1 lb. of butter.</p>
+
+<p>"Hedeselskabet" (Heath Company) is a wonderful
+society started by Captain Dalgas and other
+patriotic Danes, in 1866, for the purpose of reclaiming
+the moors and bogs. The cultivation of these lands
+seemed impossible to most people, but these few
+enthusiasts with great energy and perseverance set to
+work to overcome Nature's obstacles. These pioneers
+have been so successful in their efforts that in less than
+half a century three thousand square miles of useless<a class='page' name='Page_58' id='Page_58' title='58'></a>
+land in Jutland have been made fertile. Trees have
+been planted and carefully nursed into good plantations,
+besides many other improvements made for the benefit
+of the agriculturalist and the country generally. All
+along the sandy wastes of the west coast of Jutland
+esparto grass has been sown to bind the shifting sand,
+which is a danger to the crops when the terrible "Skaj"<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a>
+blows across the land with unbroken force. Thanks to
+the untiring energies of this society for reclaiming the
+moors, Denmark has gained land almost equal to that
+she lost in her beautiful province of Schleswig, annexed
+by Prussia in the unequal war of 1864.</p>
+
+<p>In the town of Aarhus, the capital of Jutland, a
+handsome monument has been raised to the memory
+of Captain Dalgas, the father of the movement for
+reclaiming the moors, by his grateful countrymen.</p>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a class='page' name='Page_59' id='Page_59' title='59'></a><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER XI</a></h2>
+
+<h3><a name="SOLDIERS_AND_SAILORS" id="SOLDIERS_AND_SAILORS"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">SOLDIERS AND SAILORS</a></h3>
+
+
+<p>Every Danish boy knows he must undergo a period
+of training as a soldier or sailor when he reaches his
+twentieth year. This is because Denmark is small and
+poor, and could not maintain a standing army, so her
+citizens must be able to defend her when called upon.
+This service is required from all, noble and peasant
+alike, physical weakness alone bringing exemption.
+This six or twelve months' training means a hard rough
+time for young men accustomed to a refined home, but
+it has a pleasant side in the sympathy and friendship of
+comrades. The generality of conscripts do not love
+their soldiering days, and look upon them as something
+to be got over, like the measles! "Jens" is the Danish
+equivalent for "Tommy Atkins," and "Hans" is the
+"Jack Tar" of Denmark.</p>
+
+<p>To see the daily parade of Life Guards before the
+royal palace is to see a splendid military display. This
+parade the King and young Princes often watch from
+the palace windows. The crowd gathers to enjoy the
+spectacle of "Vagt-Paraden" (changing the guard) in
+the palace square, when the standard is taken from the<a class='page' name='Page_60' id='Page_60' title='60'></a>
+Guard House and borne, to the stirring strains of the
+"Fane-Marsch," in front of the palace. As the
+standard-bearer marches he throws forward his legs
+from the hips in the most curious stiff way. This old
+elaborate German step is a striking feature of the daily
+parade. When the guard is changed and the band has
+played a selection of music, the same ceremony is
+repeated, and the standard deposited again in its resting-place.
+Then the released guard, headed by the band
+playing merry tunes, march back to their barracks
+followed by an enthusiastic crowd. The fresh guard
+take their place beside the sentry-boxes, which stand
+around the palace square. These are tall red pillar-boxes
+curiously like giant letter-boxes!</p>
+
+<p>In the Schleswig-Holstein War of 1864, the last war
+Denmark was engaged in, many Danish soldiers proved
+their valour and heroism in the unequal encounter.
+These gallant men were buried in Schleswig, and as
+the Danish colours were forbidden by the tyrannical
+Prussian conquerors, the loyal Schleswigers hit upon
+a pretty way of keeping the memory of their heroes
+green. The "Danebrog" was designed by a cross
+of white flowers on a ground of red geraniums over
+each grave. In this way the kinsmen of these patriots
+covered their last resting-place with the colours
+of their glorious national flag, under which they
+fell in Denmark's defence. In Holmens Kirke, Copenhagen,
+many heroes lie buried. This building, originally
+an iron foundry, was converted into a church by<a class='page' name='Page_61' id='Page_61' title='61'></a>
+the royal builder, Christian IV., for the dockyard men
+to worship in, and it is still used by them. This King's
+motto, "Piety strengthens the realm," stands boldly
+over the entrance of this mortuary chapel for famous
+Danes.</p>
+
+<p>As Denmark is a kingdom composed mainly of islands
+and peninsula, she has a long line of sea-board to
+defend, and a good navy is essential for her safety.
+The Danes being descendants of Vikings and sea-rovers,
+you may be sure that their navy is well maintained.</p>
+
+<p>A boy who chooses the navy as his profession must
+leave school at the age of fourteen years, and go for
+nine months' training on a warship as a voluntary
+apprentice. At the end of this time he knows whether
+he likes the profession well enough to join it&mdash;if so,
+two years' coaching is given to enable him to pass the
+necessary examinations for entering the Naval Academy.
+Here he is trained for four years, spending the four
+summer months of each year in cruising. This Naval
+Academy, where officers are trained, is a fine old institution,
+and prides itself on the record of the famous men
+it has turned out. The present King of Greece, and
+many other members of the Danish Royal Family,
+have also been trained at this Academy. The Academy
+course is expensive, and as promotion is slow, and pay
+small in the navy, the Lieutenants are sometimes permitted
+to captain a ship in the merchant service for
+three years. This they are glad to do, as it increases<a class='page' name='Page_62' id='Page_62' title='62'></a>
+their pay and knowledge of navigation. Denmark
+being too small to maintain a large cruising fleet, these
+officers would have little opportunity of proving their
+sailing powers without this arrangement.</p>
+
+<p>When cruising, the high spirits of the young cadets
+sometimes lead them into mischief, thereby bringing
+trouble upon their heads. I knew a naval captain who
+hit upon a very original and effective form of punishment
+for wrong-doers. The cadet cap is a blue "tam-o'-shanter"
+with the usual woolly bob of the same
+colour on the top. "The naughty boys shall have a
+red bob," said the "Kaptejn," "and thus be branded
+for misdemeanour!" The culprits disliked this badge
+intensely, I imagine mostly because their comrades
+derisively admired the colour which made them conspicuous.
+One day royalties were being shown over
+the ship, and a young Princess asked "why some of the
+boys had those pretty red tufts on their caps?" You
+may imagine the chagrin and confusion of the culprits;
+scarlet faces and crimson tufts told their own tale!
+The boys, you may be sure, thought twice in future
+before risking another penitential week of branding and
+ridicule for breach of discipline.</p>
+
+<p>In Copenhagen one of the discarded warships is used
+as public restaurant and training-school for ships' cooks.
+Here the sailor-men are taught every branch of cooking
+and kitchen-work. When trained, these cooks are
+employed on the merchant-ships, as well as on the
+men-of-war.</p>
+
+<p><a class='page' name='Page_63' id='Page_63' title='63'></a>Some interesting stories are told of the naval heroes
+of Denmark which you will like to hear. Peder Tordenskjold
+is the Nelson of Denmark. This man, besides
+being a great Admiral, was a most genial character,
+and had a striking and original personality. Many
+true tales are told about this hero which the young
+Danish lads never tire of hearing. There is a favourite
+one which tells of the ingenious way by which he
+discovered the weak points in his enemy's stronghold.
+Dressing himself as a fisherman, he accompanied two
+other fishers in a little rowing-boat laden with fish
+to the enemy's shores. Taking a basket of fish, he
+mounted the hill to the fort, saying he had brought the
+fish for the commandant. He was allowed to pass
+in to the fort with his fish, and, pretending stupidity,
+kept losing his way&mdash;gaining knowledge thereby&mdash;till
+he reached the commandant's residence. Gaining permission
+from the latter to supply the garrison with
+fish, he inquired for how many men he should provide.
+"Let me see," said the commandant, half to himself,
+"a hundred guns&mdash;two hundred men; you may bring
+fish for a hundred men." Tordenskjold then left the
+fort, having obtained all the information he required,
+and returned to his boat. At this moment the
+captain of one of the ships lying in the bay arrived on
+shore, and the pretended fisherman at once accosted
+him, asking permission to serve his men with fish.
+This being granted, he at once rowed to the ship, where
+he soon disposed of his fish, and conversing with the<a class='page' name='Page_64' id='Page_64' title='64'></a>
+sailors, he gained the information that in two days' time
+there would be a great festivity held on shore, at which
+most of them would be present. With this valuable
+knowledge he returned to his own shore from the
+Swedish coast, and laid plans which gave Denmark a
+victory and proved fatal to the Swedes. In Holmens
+Kirke, where this hero lies buried, a splendid black
+marble tomb has been erected to his memory by
+King Frederik IV. Near by lies another naval hero,
+Niels Juel, whose gilt and copper coffin is surmounted
+by a tablet which tells of his brave deeds.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Hvitfeldt, the hero of Kj&ouml;ge Bay, blew up
+his ship with three hundred men to save the Danish
+fleet from destruction. In the war of 1710, between
+Denmark and Sweden, this captain's ship, the <i>Danebrog</i>,
+took fire. To save the ships which were being
+driven by the wind towards his burning vessel, he and
+his gallant crew sacrificed their lives.</p>
+
+<p>Herluf Trolle was a Danish noble and a famous
+Admiral, who left all his wealth to found a school
+for orphans. His noble wife, Fru Bergitta, was
+greatly distressed that the Admiral's will could not be
+found, as she was most anxious that his wishes, which
+were also her own, with regard to the school, should be
+carried into effect. The Admiral's relatives would
+inherit the property, and were already clamouring for
+it, when one night Fru Bergitta had a dream. She
+dreamed she saw someone walking round her husband's
+writing-table, attentively inspecting the legs. These<a class='page' name='Page_65' id='Page_65' title='65'></a>
+she examined on awakening, and found one to be
+hollow. Discovering a secret spring, she pressed it,
+and beheld the will lying in the hollow space. So
+Herluf Trolle's school was founded, and although this
+brave old Admiral died from wounds received in battle
+centuries ago, yet his school is considered to be one of
+the best at the present day.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="SUNDAY_IN_THE_ISLAND" id="SUNDAY_IN_THE_ISLAND"></a>
+<a class='fig' href="images/illus006.jpg"><img src="images/illus006-tb.jpg" width="400" height="556" alt="SUNDAY IN THE ISLAND OF L&AElig;S&Ouml;." title="SUNDAY IN THE ISLAND OF L&AElig;S&Ouml;. (click to enhance)" /></a>
+<span class="caption">SUNDAY IN THE ISLAND OF L&AElig;S&Ouml;.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a class='page' name='Page_66' id='Page_66' title='66'></a><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER XII</a></h2>
+
+<h3><a name="THE_PEOPLE_OF_THE_ISLES" id="THE_PEOPLE_OF_THE_ISLES"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">THE PEOPLE OF THE ISLES</a></h3>
+
+
+<p>One of the most storm-swept and barren of Denmark's
+many islands is the island of Fan&ouml;. Lying, as it does,
+exposed to the full force of the North Sea gales, it yet
+serves to protect the harbour of Esbjerg from these
+storms. It is eight miles long, and three miles at its
+broadest part. A trim little steamer will carry you
+across from Esbjerg to Nordby&mdash;the fishing town on
+the east coast of Fan&ouml;&mdash;in twenty minutes. Nordby
+is both quaint and picturesque. The low thatched
+houses, with rough-cast, whitewashed walls, nestle close
+to each other for shelter from the winds.</p>
+
+<p>The Fan&ouml; women have a practical but peculiar
+costume; the thickly-pleated skirt has a bright-coloured
+border, while the close-fitting bodice is adorned with
+embroidery, and pretty antique buttons. A folded
+cotton kerchief and accordion-pleated apron give a
+daintiness to the whole dress. The head-dress, however,
+gives the most singular finish to the costume. A
+dark, checked-bordered handkerchief tied over a stiff,
+cambric frame, entirely envelops the head. The four
+ends of this handkerchief are tied in an odd way, two<a class='page' name='Page_67' id='Page_67' title='67'></a>
+being left upstanding like rabbits' ears! This striking
+head-dress gives the Fan&ouml; wife a fantastic appearance.
+When the good-natured, smiling faces of these women
+are hidden behind a mask, the combination of dress and
+mask makes them awesome-looking folk. The men of
+the island are nearly all fishermen; the women are the
+farmers, and it is to protect their faces from the blinding
+sand-storms, while working on the land, that
+these masks are worn. This mask obliterates all
+comeliness, for only the eyes peep out from the weird
+face-protector.</p>
+
+<p>This island of heath, dune, and quicksand is wild and
+romantic. The cultivated fields are protected by sand-hills,
+and belts of stunted, wind-swept trees that afford
+some slight protection to the crops. The island belongs
+to the people, who cultivate it assiduously. The courage
+and perseverance of these women agriculturalists is
+rewarded by fair crops, notwithstanding an adverse
+climate.</p>
+
+<p>At the south end of the island, far away from any
+dwelling, is the interesting "Fuglek&ouml;jerne,"<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> where
+three or four hundred wild-duck are taken in a day
+during the season. Decoy-ducks are used for this
+purpose.</p>
+
+<p>The west side of the island is the most fashionable
+watering-place in Denmark. Large hotels and pretty
+villas line the shore, and here the well-to-do Danes
+inhale bracing sea-breezes.</p>
+
+<p><a class='page' name='Page_68' id='Page_68' title='68'></a>On a windy day this western shore is not amusing.
+Clouds of blinding sand whirl high in the air, while
+the booming surf rolls and plunges on the beach with
+deafening roar, and makes rank and fashion fly to
+shelter in hotel or villa till the storm is over. Visitors
+in summer and storms in winter have it all their own
+way on this west coast&mdash;the people of Fan&ouml; trouble
+it not.</p>
+
+<p>Bornholm, situated in the middle of the Baltic, is
+both beautiful and fertile. Its products are very
+valuable to Denmark. From here comes the clay of
+which the exquisite Copenhagen porcelain is made.
+Here, too, the granite for building the country's
+defences and docks is quarried. I fancy if you were
+to ask a young Dane what Bornholm is most famed for
+he would say, "Turkeys," for the island supplies the
+Copenhagen market with these birds.</p>
+
+<p>The chief town, R&ouml;nne, is charming, with its many
+low-roofed houses, which overlook the Baltic. It is
+noted for its terra-cotta ware, clocks, and Museum of
+Antiquities.</p>
+
+<p>Most of the towns are upon the coast. Four
+singular round churches, built of granite, were formerly
+used as places of refuge for the people when beset
+by pirates. These "Rundkirker" are peculiar to
+Bornholm.</p>
+
+<p>A high festival is celebrated every year on the anniversary
+of the day when the inhabitants succeeded in
+throwing off the Swedish yoke, which they had borne<a class='page' name='Page_69' id='Page_69' title='69'></a>
+for a short time in the seventeenth century with resentment.</p>
+
+<p>Hammershus Castle, on the northern extremity of
+Bornholm, was built in the thirteenth century. There
+is a sad tale connected with this romantic castle, about
+a Danish noble and his wife. This noble, Corfitz
+Ulfeldt, was imprisoned there for treason. His beautiful
+wife, Eleonora, the favourite daughter of Christian IV.,
+accompanied him, preferring imprisonment with him
+to liberty without him. After the Count died, Eleonora,
+who had a mortal enemy in Queen Caroline Amalia,
+was sent by the latter to the "Blaataarn"<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> of Slotsholmen,
+Copenhagen, and there incarcerated for twenty-two
+years. The illustrious Eleonora was only liberated on
+the death of the vindictive Queen, but the long years
+of captivity&mdash;without reason&mdash;had wrecked her life.</p>
+
+<p>L&aelig;s&ouml; is a small island in the Cattegat, the inhabitants
+of which are mainly farmers and fishermen, and the old
+women wear a particular costume for Sunday, which is
+called the "church costume."</p>
+
+<p>The people of Amager are great market-gardeners.
+They are of Dutch extraction. Christian II., after flying
+from his country, took refuge in Holland, and some of
+the Dutch helped him in trying to regain his throne.
+For this service he gave his Dutch followers the island
+of Amager. The descendants of these Dutch people
+still retain their old customs and characteristics. Clattering
+about in wooden shoes, the old women, in quaint<a class='page' name='Page_70' id='Page_70' title='70'></a>
+costume, may be seen driving their geese down the
+picturesque streets to the meadows. Besides being
+market-gardeners and florists, these Amager folk rear
+and fatten the geese for the Christmas market.</p>
+
+<p>The natural beauty of the island of M&ouml;en is striking,
+and unlike the rest of Denmark. "M&ouml;en's Klint" are
+great, jagged white cliffs rising abruptly from the sea.
+Enchanting beech-woods thickly crown the summit,
+giving distinctive and unusual beauty to it. From
+Sommerspiret, the highest point, we have an extensive
+view over the &Oslash;sters&ouml;en and K&ouml;jge Bay, where the
+famous victory over the Swedes was won by Niels Juel
+in 1677.</p>
+
+<p>In Denmark the town-crier beats a drum to draw
+attention to the notice he is about to give.</p>
+
+<p>Danish postmen present a gorgeous appearance, in
+red coats, with smart cloaks of the same brilliant hue
+for winter wear. These and the bright yellow mail-vans,
+which they drive sometimes, arrest attention, and give
+importance to the carriers of His Majesty's mails.</p>
+
+<p>In many of the houses the "Forh&ouml;jning" is still used.
+This is a raised platform close to the window, on which
+the lady of the house sits to do her embroidery. While
+she is here she can follow all that goes on in the street
+below by an ingenious arrangement of oblique convex
+mirrors fixed to the outside of the window, and reflecting
+the life in the streets both ways.</p>
+
+<p>The numerous pretty articles made of amber, which
+adorn the ladies' dressing-tables, and of which beads and<a class='page' name='Page_71' id='Page_71' title='71'></a>
+ornaments for the girls are composed, are of local
+manufacture, amber being found in quantities on the
+west coast of Jutland.</p>
+
+<p>In the islands of Funen and Seeland there are many
+grand old manor-houses belonging to the nobility,
+whose fine estates give employment to many peasants.
+A story is told of a certain noble, Christian Barnekow
+by name, who saved his King, Christian IV., by his
+heroic self-sacrifice. The King had lost his horse, and
+was on the point of being killed or made prisoner when
+Barnekow came to his rescue. Giving the King his own
+horse, he said, "I give my horse to my King, my life to
+the enemy, and my soul to God." A street in Copenhagen
+is called after this brave nobleman "Kristenbernikovstrade."</p>
+
+<p>It is characteristic of the Danes to run words into
+each other, and streets in Denmark often have prodigiously
+long names.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a class='page' name='Page_72' id='Page_72' title='72'></a><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER XIII</a></h2>
+
+<h3><a name="FISHERMEN_AT_HOME_AND_AFLOAT" id="FISHERMEN_AT_HOME_AND_AFLOAT"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">FISHERMEN AT HOME AND AFLOAT</a></h3>
+
+
+<p>The class of people most lauded by their own and
+other nations is that of the brave and hardy fishermen
+of Denmark. These men are always willing to man
+the life-boat and to risk their lives to save those in
+peril on the dangerous coast of Jutland. Although
+hundreds of ships are wrecked on this dreaded
+"Jernkyst" (iron coast), their crews are invariably
+saved by these courageous men. The whole length of
+the west coast of Jutland is bleak and exposed to the
+storms and fogs of the North Sea. Not one single
+harbour of refuge can be found between Esbjerg and
+the Skaw. Dangerous sandbanks and massive cliffs
+guard the coast, making navigation both difficult and
+hazardous. All along this perilous coast life-saving
+apparatus of the newest and best type is stored in
+the life-boat houses placed at intervals close to the
+seashore. On stormy nights the watching sentinels
+summon by telephone the fishermen of the tiny hamlets
+near. At sound of a rocket the distressful cry, "A
+wreck, a wreck!" runs over the telephone, and immediately
+brave hearts and hands are putting off to the<a class='page' name='Page_73' id='Page_73' title='73'></a>
+rescue, while trembling women anxiously wait their
+husbands' return with warm restoratives for the saved.
+These fishermen's wives are brave too, for it is anxious
+work waiting and watching. It is not to be wondered
+at that this merciless and cruel coast is dreaded by all
+seamen. How thankful they must feel when they see
+the great lighthouse at Grenen&mdash;the northernmost point
+of Jutland&mdash;and can signal "All's well!" "Alt vel!
+passeret Grenen" flash the lights across the water, and
+both passengers and crew breathe a little more freely
+if it has been a stormy passage. Something like eighty
+thousand vessels pass by this coast in a year, so you
+may be sure the gallant fishermen of Denmark who live
+on the iron coast have plenty of rescue work to do.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="SKAGEN_FISHERMAN" id="SKAGEN_FISHERMAN"></a>
+<a class='fig' href="images/illus007.jpg"><img src="images/illus007-tb.jpg" width="400" height="520" alt="SKAGEN FISHERMAN NEAR THE TOWER OF BURIED CHURCH." title="SKAGEN FISHERMAN NEAR THE TOWER OF BURIED CHURCH. (click to enhance)" /></a>
+<span class="caption">SKAGEN FISHERMAN NEAR THE TOWER OF BURIED CHURCH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>You should see this coast on a stormy day, more
+especially at Grenen, where those two mighty seas, the
+Skagerack and Cattegat, meet. When the tempest
+rages here, far as eye can see a long ridge of seething,
+tossing water denotes the meeting-place of the currents.
+The great "white horses" in battle array fight, plunge,
+and roar&mdash;each striving for the mastery which neither
+gains. This wrestling-match is a splendid spectacle to
+those who are safe on shore, also to those at sea if the
+day is clear, because they can then give the reef a wide
+berth. Tossing spray is thrown high into the air and
+wind-borne to the shore, so even at a distance from the
+waves you may have a salt shower-bath should you be
+able to "keep your legs" against the fury of the gale.
+The screaming gulls which fly around, dipping and<a class='page' name='Page_74' id='Page_74' title='74'></a>
+rising, enjoying as only "storm-birds" can the roar
+and tumult of these tempestuous waters, enhance the
+fierce loneliness of the scene. This awe-inspiring
+"Nature-barrier" saddens you&mdash;even while you exult
+in the madness of its fury&mdash;when you think what it
+means on a foggy night to the poor mariner. What
+a comfort for the seafarer to know that there is such a
+famous race of fishermen here, willing and ready to
+man the life-boat and rescue them from the angry,
+engulfing waters! You would never guess these seas
+could be otherwise than kind when you enter their
+smiling depths for a swim on a calm, sunny day. How
+gentle and invigorating they can be the fishermen as
+well as the visitors know, and any morning you may
+see the former returning from their daily dip with
+dripping heads and towels along the shore. Somehow
+these fishermen are always picturesque. In the summer
+evening, sitting or lying on the sunlit beach, smoking
+their cutty-pipes and waiting for the time to launch
+their boats for the fishing, they make an impressive
+picture. Kindly blue eyes and weather-beaten faces
+look at you from under the sou'westers, while blue
+jerseys, long sea-boots with curled-over tops and oil-skins,
+complete the sea-going outfit. Fully equipped,
+they charm the eye of the most fastidious, and it is
+little wonder that they have become subjects for famous
+artists and poets.</p>
+
+<p>These fishermen are very devout, and before launching
+their boat they all stand round it with clasped<a class='page' name='Page_75' id='Page_75' title='75'></a>
+hands and bowed heads, offering up a short, silent
+prayer for help and protection on these dangerous
+waters. Then, pushing the boat out into the water,
+they jump in while it floats&mdash;sea-boots getting wet in
+the process&mdash;and wave farewell to their children on the
+shore, who cry in return "Farvel Fa'er!"</p>
+
+<p>Lars Kruse, the late captain of the life-boat at Skagen,
+has had a beautiful monument raised to his memory,
+and his son will show you with great pride the cups
+and medals he left behind as mementoes of his brave
+deeds. These medals have been presented by many
+different nations whose sea-farers have been saved by
+him. Amongst these is one given by Queen Victoria.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Larsen, a well-known mariner, who, on
+retiring from his post on one of the light-ships, settled
+at Old Skagen, has left a unique collection to the
+village. This now constitutes a museum of exquisitely
+carved furniture, much of it inlaid with ivory, marbles
+and metals in dainty designs, all made by this old sailor
+during the last twelve years of his life&mdash;a wonderful
+record of industry. Old Skagen is a quaint fisher-village,
+nestling behind the sand-dunes, trying to shelter
+itself from the sand and sea-storms to which these
+shores are subjected.</p>
+
+<p>Many of these fisher-folk are farmers also, tilling and
+cultivating the heath-lands which lie beyond the village.
+The fisher cottages are quite pretty, with thatched or
+red-tiled roofs, white or buff rough-cast walls, green
+painted doors and windows, with black painted founda<a class='page' name='Page_76' id='Page_76' title='76'></a>tions
+which protect them from the sand. Bright
+flowering plants in the windows and the neat and
+clean appearance of the whole betoken the joy and
+comfort that reigns in the fisherman's home. Many
+household duties are performed at the cottage door in
+the sandy enclosure surrounding the little homestead.
+Here the old men mend the nets, keeping a watchful
+eye on the babies, while the women clean and salt the
+fish, hanging them up in rows to dry in the sun. In
+these garden enclosures, also, many quaintly pretty
+miniature houses may be seen erected on tall poles.
+These are to encourage the starlings and other songsters
+to settle in them, as there are no trees. Hen-roosts
+and outhouses are adorned with the name-boards of
+wrecked boats washed up on the shore, while discarded
+boats turned over and tarred make the roofs of these
+curious shelters worthy of royal hens!</p>
+
+<p>The older fishermen have a safe and effective way of
+trawling from the strand. Putting out in a small boat,
+taking their net with them, to which a long rope is
+attached&mdash;the end of this being left in charge of the
+fishermen on the shore&mdash;they row gaily over the water,
+paying out the rope as they go. When the limit of
+this rope is reached, the men drop their weighted net
+overboard and pull for the shore, bringing with them
+another attached rope which is paid out till they reach
+the strand. When they have landed and the boat is
+beached, half a dozen men or more take hold of each
+rope&mdash;these are fastened to each side of the submerged<a class='page' name='Page_77' id='Page_77' title='77'></a>
+net&mdash;and begin hauling it to the shore. The straining
+muscles of the men as they march up the beach with a
+strong, steady, overhand pull on the rope denotes that
+this is heavy work. It is a grand sight! As the net
+nears the shore the gleaming, glittering mass of fish can
+be seen leaping and jumping in vain endeavour to escape
+from their prison, only the smaller fry succeeding. At
+last the net with its silver load reaches the shore with
+the noise as of a great wave breaking upon the beach,
+which is caused by the efforts of the fish to gain their
+freedom. The best fish are picked out and the others
+returned to the sea, while the gulls swoop down with
+querulous cry and gobble all that float on the surface
+of the water. These fishermen have a prejudice against
+skate, and use it only for bait.</p>
+
+<p>St. Clement is the patron saint of Danish fishermen,
+and many of the churches in the coast towns are dedicated
+to him.</p>
+
+<p>As the Cathedral of Aarhus is dedicated to St. Clement,
+the Skaw fishermen have given an exquisite model of a
+ship to the church. This ship is a perfect representation
+in miniature of a man-of-war. It was made in
+Holland for Peter the Great, but the ship which carried
+it was wrecked near Grenen, and the model was saved
+by the Skaw fishermen.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a class='page' name='Page_78' id='Page_78' title='78'></a><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER XIV</a></h2>
+
+<h3><a name="YOUTHFUL_DANES_AT_WORK_AND_PLAY" id="YOUTHFUL_DANES_AT_WORK_AND_PLAY"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">YOUTHFUL DANES AT WORK AND PLAY</a></h3>
+
+
+<p>Denmark is renowned for its educational system and
+for its schools. These schools are all under Government
+control, and meet the wants of every class. The
+authorities are upheld by the parents, both being
+determined there shall be no such thing as an ignoramus
+in Denmark, so whether the children are educated at
+home or sent to school, they must begin lessons at the
+age of seven. If they have a governess at home the
+parents must give a guarantee to the authorities that
+the governess is efficient and capable of giving the
+standard education to the children. Should parents
+elect to take their children abroad during the school
+term, they must notify their intention, undertaking that
+a teacher shall accompany them and lessons continue
+while away. Shirking lessons is quite an impossibility
+for little Danes, as everybody thinks that education
+comes before all else, so parents do not encourage
+idleness or extra holidays during the school year.</p>
+
+<p>School attendance is compulsory for all children
+between the ages of seven and fourteen. The hours
+are not long nor wearisome, as the lessons are arranged<a class='page' name='Page_79' id='Page_79' title='79'></a>
+with a view to holding the attention of young minds
+during the period of instruction. The classes are
+small, even in the free schools, never more than thirty-five
+pupils to a teacher, and generally less. The lesson
+lasts forty minutes, and then there is an interval for play.
+The thorough education of the pupils for their future
+work in life is considered, so lessons in writing, reading,
+and arithmetic, in the Kommune schools, are varied by
+tailoring lessons for boys, and cookery for girls, after
+they are ten years of age. At every school gymnastics
+play an important part&mdash;pleasant lessons these are for
+all&mdash;but perhaps the lesson the boys most delight in
+is their instruction in Sl&ouml;yd. Each lad has his carpenter's
+bench with necessary tools, and as we know every boy
+is happy when making or marring with hammer and nails,
+I am sure you will think these must be enviable lessons.
+I have seen some charming models as well as useful
+things made by the boys&mdash;a perfect miniature landau,
+complete in every detail, benches, bureaux, carts, tables,
+chairs, besides many other serviceable articles. Besides
+this pleasure-work at school, the boys, if they are
+farmers' sons, have practical lessons at home by helping
+their father on the farm. The authorities being anxious
+to help the farmer, they allow him to keep a boy at
+home half the day for instruction in farm-work, but the
+other half must be spent at school. The prizes at the
+municipal schools not infrequently consist of clothes,
+watches, clocks, or tools, all of which are worked for
+eagerly by the pupils.</p>
+
+<p><a class='page' name='Page_80' id='Page_80' title='80'></a>The boys and girls of Denmark begin early with
+gymnastic exercises, and soon become sturdy little
+athletes from sheer love of the exhilarating practice. All
+Danes pride themselves&mdash;and with good reason&mdash;on
+their national athletic exercises. At the Olympic
+Games, held at the Stadium in London, the Danish
+ladies carried away the gold medal by their fine
+gymnastic display. This was a triumph with so many
+competitors in the field. It is an amusing sight to see
+the Danes at a seaside resort taking their morning
+swim; each one on leaving the water runs about on
+the sun-warmed beach, and goes through a gymnastic
+display on his own account, choosing the exercise
+he considers most calculated to warm and invigorate
+him after his dip. The children require no second
+bidding to follow father's example, and as they emerge
+from the water breathless, pantingly join in the fun.
+Sons try to go one better than the father in some
+gymnastic feat which the latter's stoutness renders
+impossible! The merry peals of laughter which
+accompany the display speak eloquently of the thorough
+enjoyment of all the bathers.</p>
+
+<p>Yachting in Denmark is not merely a pleasure for
+the rich, it is inexpensive, so all classes and every man
+capable of sailing a boat can enjoy it. In the summer-time
+the Sound and other waters seem alive with the
+multitudes of white sails and speeding craft of all sizes.
+The &Oslash;resund Week, as the Royal Yacht Club's regatta-week
+is called, is the time of all others for yachtsmen to<a class='page' name='Page_81' id='Page_81' title='81'></a>
+display their skill, and a gay event in the Copenhagener's
+year. The pleasant waters of Denmark are beloved of
+yachtsmen. Sailing round the wooded islands, you are
+impressed by their picturesque beauty, which is seen to
+advantage from the water. One is not surprised that
+this popular pastime comes first with every Danish boy,
+who, whether swimming, rowing, or sailing, feels
+perfectly at home on the water. Everybody cycles in
+Denmark. Cycle-stands are provided outside every shop,
+station, office, and college, so that you have no more
+difficulty in disposing of your cycle than your umbrella.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="WINTER_IN_THE_FOREST" id="WINTER_IN_THE_FOREST"></a>
+<a class='fig' href="images/illus008.jpg"><img src="images/illus008-tb.jpg" width="400" height="488" alt="WINTER IN THE FOREST." title="WINTER IN THE FOREST. (click to enhance)" /></a>
+<span class="caption">WINTER IN THE FOREST.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Football is a summer game here&mdash;spirited matches
+you would think impossible at this season&mdash;but the
+Danes have them, and what is more, they will inform
+you that they quite enjoy what appears to the spectator
+a hot, fatiguing amusement. Cricket has few attractions
+for the Danish lads, but that is because they
+cannot play, though their schoolmasters and parents
+would have them try. All things English are much
+admired, and when a Dane intends to do a thing he
+generally succeeds, so we can only suppose he is too
+indifferent about cricket&mdash;although it is an English
+game&mdash;to excel.</p>
+
+<p>Golf and hockey are also played, and "bandy"&mdash;<i>i.e.</i>,
+hockey on the ice&mdash;is a favourite winter sport. A
+"bandy" match is quite exciting to watch. The
+players, armed with a wooden club, often find the ice a
+difficulty when rushing after the solid rubber ball. This
+exhilarating game is known in some parts of the world<a class='page' name='Page_82' id='Page_82' title='82'></a>
+as "shinty." The Danes are proficient skaters, and of
+late years an artificial ground for winter sport of all
+kinds has been made in the Ulvedal, near Copenhagen.
+Here they have "bandy" matches, ski-ing, and tobogganing,
+as well as other winter games. Fox-hunting is
+unknown in Denmark, but frequently foxes are included
+in the sportsman's bag when shooting. These
+are shot because it is necessary to keep Mr. Reynard's
+depredations under control. Trotting-matches are held
+on Sunday on the racecourse near Charlottenlund, and
+horse-racing takes place too. Lawn-tennis and croquet
+are very popular, but the latter is the favourite pastime
+of the Danish ladies.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a class='page' name='Page_83' id='Page_83' title='83'></a><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER XV</a></h2>
+
+<h3><a name="INGEBORGS_JOURNEY_THROUGH_SEELAND" id="INGEBORGS_JOURNEY_THROUGH_SEELAND"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">INGEBORG'S JOURNEY THROUGH SEELAND</a></h3>
+
+
+<p>Funen, the island which lies between the Great and
+Little Belts, is known as the "Garden of Denmark,"
+on account of its beauty and fertility. In Odense, the
+capital, Ingeborg had lived happily all the fifteen
+summers of her life. Now she was to have an unexpected
+treat. Her grandfather intended taking her
+with him on the morrow to see some of the historical
+places in Seeland. Ingeborg loved history, and had
+given her grandfather much pleasure by the knowledge
+she displayed when showing him over her own church,
+St. Knud's. This ancient Gothic Church is the
+finest specimen of medi&aelig;val architecture in Denmark.
+St. Knud, the grand-nephew of Canute the Great,
+was slain before the altar while praying for his people.
+This brave King could have saved himself by flight,
+but would not, lest his subjects should suffer at the
+hands of his enemies. He was canonized by the Pope,
+and his brother built the church to his memory. Besides
+being the shrine of St. Knud, this church is the burial-place
+of King Christian II. and his Queen, as well as of
+King Hans and his Consort. The beautiful altar-piece,<a class='page' name='Page_84' id='Page_84' title='84'></a>
+given by Queen Christina, is of the most exquisite
+workmanship, and took the artists many years to
+execute.</p>
+
+<p>Ingeborg's excitement was great when she crossed
+from Nyborg. She remembered that an army once
+crossed this water on foot, so severe was the winter, and
+that ice-breakers are still used occasionally. The girl
+wished it was winter as she watched for the first time
+the huge paddle-wheels of the steam-ferry ploughing
+through the waters of the Great Belt. By the time
+Kors&ouml;r was reached, Herr Nielsen, her grandfather,
+had made acquaintance with a student who was returning
+to his college at Sor&ouml;, the town which they intended
+making their first stopping-place. The student, whose
+name was Hans, informed them that he lived at Ribe, a
+quaint old town of South Jutland, left very much to
+memories and the storks, but possessing a fine twelfth-century
+Cathedral. The college at Sor&ouml; was founded
+by Ludvig Holberg, the father of Danish comedy, who
+left his fortune and library for that purpose. Hans
+was proud of belonging to this college, as it had
+educated many men of letters famous in Danish history.</p>
+
+<p>In the Cistercian Church of Sor&ouml;, Bishop Absalon, the
+founder of Copenhagen, lies buried. It is said that
+this Bishop's spirit appears, with menacing attitude, if
+anyone desecrates the place by irreverence. Ludvig
+Holberg is also buried in this cloister church, as well
+as three Danish Kings.</p>
+
+<p>Ingemann the poet spent most of his time at this<a class='page' name='Page_85' id='Page_85' title='85'></a>
+charming town, which stands on the lake of the Sor&ouml; S&ouml;.
+In the luxuriant beech-woods which surround the lake,
+Saxo Grammaticus, the first historian of Denmark, was
+wont to wander. Both these celebrated men also lie in
+the old church, which Ingeborg felt was a fitting
+resting-place for the noble dead.</p>
+
+<p>On the advice of Hans, Herr Nielsen took his
+young grand-daughter to see the old convent church of
+Ringsted. Here many Danish Kings were buried in
+the twelfth, thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. The
+interesting Romanesque Church of Kallundborg was
+also visited. This Church, with its four octagonal
+towers and a square tower in the middle, forms a
+Greek cross. This is the most unique specimen of
+medi&aelig;val architecture in the North.</p>
+
+<p>Ingeborg had long looked forward to seeing Roskilde
+Cathedral, and the day was bright and sunny when they
+arrived at the sleepy little town on the Roskilde Fjord.
+This stately Cathedral, with its two tall pointed spires,
+is called the "Westminster Abbey" of Denmark.
+It is the burial-place of the Danish Royal Family:
+thirty-three Kings and many Queens rest in it. A
+beautiful alabaster tomb marks the resting-place of
+Queen Margrethe, the famous Queen who united the
+three Crowns&mdash;Norway, Sweden, and Denmark&mdash;and
+was ever ambitious for the glory and development of
+these countries. She ruled with wisdom and wonderful
+diplomacy, and was the most powerful Queen Denmark
+ever had. She has been called the "Semiramis of the<a class='page' name='Page_86' id='Page_86' title='86'></a>
+North." Though the three crowns are still on the
+shield of Denmark, the other two kingdoms were lost
+to her in the sixteenth century. Queen Margrethe was
+the daughter of Valdemar IV., known as "Atterdag,"
+because of his favourite proverb: "I Morgen er der
+atter en Dag."<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> This powerful monarch kept his subjects
+in such incessant turmoil by his numerous wars
+for acquiring territory "that they had not time to eat"!
+The Renaissance chapel erected by Christian IV., in
+which his tomb stands, is very beautiful. This popular
+monarch, alike celebrated as architect, sailor, and warrior,
+was one of the most impressive figures in Danish history.
+The mural paintings of the chapel represent scenes in
+the life of this great King.</p>
+
+<p>Ingeborg was glad she remembered her history,
+and could tell her grandfather so much as they went
+through the Cathedral. He, however, informed her
+that Frederik VII. was the last of the Kings of the
+Oldenburg line, which had been on the throne of
+Denmark for over four hundred years.</p>
+
+<p>The sarcophagus of the beloved Christian IX., father
+of many European crowned heads, including Queen
+Alexandra of England, is still kept covered with fresh
+flowers. This King, whose memory is so revered in
+all countries, inaugurated a new dynasty in Denmark.
+The curious old clock at the western end of the cathedral
+interested Ingeborg, and she watched with delight,
+when it struck the hour of noon, St. George, mounted<a class='page' name='Page_87' id='Page_87' title='87'></a>
+on his fiery steed, with many groans and stiff, jerky
+movements, kill the dragon, which expired with a gruesome
+death-rattle!</p>
+
+<p>In the thirteenth century this quiet town of Roskilde
+was the capital, and the archiepiscopal see of Denmark.
+An English Bishop, William of Roskilde, is supposed
+to have built the Cathedral.</p>
+
+<p>We will now follow our little friend and her grandfather
+to Frederiksborg Castle. The castle, with its
+many towers and pinnacles reflected in still waters,
+stands in the middle of a lake. This handsome Dutch
+Renaissance building is now used as an historical
+museum. Many of the Danish Kings have been
+crowned in its magnificent chapel. Wandering through
+the splendid rooms of the castle, Ingeborg could read
+the history of her country in a very pleasant and
+interesting manner. The collection being confined to
+one period for each room made instruction an easy
+affair for the grandfather. Beginning with King Gorm
+the Old and Canute the Great, it comprises all periods
+up to the last century.</p>
+
+<p>The autumn residence of the Royal Family, Fredensborg
+Castle, was the next place of interest visited.
+This Castle of Peace was built to commemorate the
+end of the war between Denmark and Sweden.
+"Fred" means "peace" in Danish, and, indeed, this
+place proves a home of peace to tired Royalty. Its
+park is considered the most beautiful in Denmark.
+The magnificent avenues of lime-trees are lined by<a class='page' name='Page_88' id='Page_88' title='88'></a>
+marble statues of peasants in national costumes,
+Faroese, Icelandic and Norwegian, as well as those of
+Denmark.</p>
+
+<p>The Open-Air Museum at Lyngby, with its ancient
+farm and peasant buildings, the interiors of which are
+fitted up just as they used to be, gave Ingeborg a peep
+into the past and old-time Denmark. Here she saw
+a curious rolling-pin hanging in the ingle-nook of the
+farmhouse from the village of Ostenfeld. This wooden
+pin, so her grandfather told her, was a Clogg Almanac
+or Runic Calendar. It had four sides, each marking
+three months, large notches denoting Sundays, small
+ones showing week-days. Saints' days were marked
+by the symbol of each saint. He had seen some of
+these old calendars in the Ashmolean Museum at
+Oxford, when he had been in England, which were
+relics of Danish government there. These quaint and
+curious Clogg Almanacs were used throughout Scandinavia,
+small ones made of horn or bone being for
+the pocket.</p>
+
+<p>But here we must say good-bye to Ingeborg and
+her grandfather, as after seeing Kronborg Castle and
+Elsinore they will return by the beautiful coast-line to
+Copenhagen, there to enjoy many of the sights we have
+seen in "dear little Denmark."</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<div class='footnotes'>
+<h2><a name="FOOTNOTES" id="FOOTNOTES"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">FOOTNOTES:</a></h2>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Thank you for the food.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> May it agree with you.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Spoon-food.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> Luncheon.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Be so good.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> Birthday child.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> Impenetrable swamp.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> The sharp, dry, north-west wind which blows in the spring.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Retreat of wild-duck.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> Blue Tower.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> To-morrow comes another day.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DENMARK***</p>
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+</html>
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@@ -0,0 +1,2579 @@
+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Denmark, by M. Pearson Thomson, Illustrated
+by F. J. Hyldahl
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Denmark
+
+
+Author: M. Pearson Thomson
+
+
+
+Release Date: December 13, 2006 [eBook #20107]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DENMARK***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Juliet Sutherland, Ralph Janke, and the Project
+Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net/)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+ file which includes the original illustrations.
+ See 20107-h.htm or 20107-h.zip:
+ (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/0/1/0/20107/20107-h/20107-h.htm)
+ or
+ (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/0/1/0/20107/20107-h.zip)
+
+
+Transcriber's notes:
+
+ Text that is printed in italic style in the original is
+ enclosed between underscores (_italic text_)
+
+ The section of the book about Norway is not included.
+
+
+
+
+
+Peeps at Many Lands
+
+NORWAY
+BY LIEUT.-COL. A. F. MOCKLER-FERRYMAN,
+F.R.G.S., F.Z.S.
+
+and
+
+DENMARK
+BY M. PEARSON THOMSON
+
+With Sixteen Full-Page Illustrations
+in Colour
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+The MacMillan Company
+64 & 66 Fifth Avenue, New York
+1921
+
+
+
+
+DENMARK
+
+[Illustration: SKETCH-MAP OF DENMARK.]
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+DENMARK
+
+_By M. Pearson Thomson_
+
+ I. MERRY COPENHAGEN--I 1
+
+ II. MERRY COPENHAGEN--II 6
+
+ III. HANS ANDERSEN--THE "FAIRY-TALE" OF HIS LIFE 12
+
+ IV. FAMOUS DANES 18
+
+ V. LEGENDARY LORE AND FOLK-DANCES 25
+
+ VI. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 32
+
+ VII. A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND--I 39
+
+VIII. A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND--II 45
+
+ IX. THE PEOPLE'S AMUSEMENTS 51
+
+ X. FARM LIFE--BUTTER-MAKING--"HEDESELSKABET" 54
+
+ XI. SOLDIERS AND SAILORS 59
+
+ XII. THE PEOPLE OF THE ISLES 66
+
+XIII. FISHERMEN AT HOME AND AFLOAT 72
+
+ XIV. YOUTHFUL DANES AT WORK AND PLAY 78
+
+ XV. INGEBORG'S JOURNEY THROUGH SEELAND 83
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+
+
+DENMARK
+
+_By F. J. Hyldahl_
+
+ FACING PAGE
+
+FLOWER MARKET IN COPENHAGEN 9
+
+DRAGOeR PEASANT 16
+
+CHILDREN'S DAY 33
+
+HARVEST-TIME 40
+
+VAGT-PARADEN 57
+
+SUNDAY IN THE ISLAND OF LAESOe 64
+
+SKAGEN FISHERMAN NEAR THE TOWER OF BURIED CHURCH 73
+
+WINTER IN THE FOREST 80
+
+_Sketch-Map, page ii, Denmark Section._
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+DENMARK
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+MERRY COPENHAGEN--I
+
+
+Copenhagen, the metropolis of Denmark, is a large and flourishing city,
+with all the modern improvements of a commercial capital. It has an
+atmosphere of its own, an atmosphere of friendliness and gaiety,
+particularly appreciated by English people, who in "Merry Copenhagen"
+always feel themselves at home.
+
+The approach to this fine city from the North by the Cattegat is very
+charming. Sailing through the Sound, you come upon this "Athens of the
+North" at its most impressive point, where the narrow stretch of water
+which divides Sweden and Denmark lies like a silvery blue ribbon between
+the two countries, joining the Cattegat to the Baltic Sea. In summer the
+sparkling, blue Sound, of which the Danes are so justly proud, is alive
+with traffic of all kinds. Hundreds of steamers pass to and from the
+North Sea and Baltic, carrying their passengers and freights from
+Russia, Germany, Finland, and Sweden, to the whole world. In olden times
+Denmark exacted toll from these passing ships, which the nations found
+irksome, but the Danes most profitable. This "Sundtold" was abolished
+finally at the wish of the different nations using this "King's
+highway," who combined to pay a large lump sum to Denmark, in order that
+their ships might sail through the Sound without this annoyance in
+future.
+
+Kronborg Castle, whose salute demanded this toll in olden days, still
+rears its stately pinnacles against the blue sky, and looking towards
+the old fortress of Kjaernan, on the Swedish coast, seems to say, "Our
+glory is of a bygone day, and in the land of memories."
+
+Elsinore, the ancient town which surrounds this castle, is well known to
+English and American tourists as the supposed burial-place of Hamlet,
+the Prince of Denmark immortalized by Shakespeare. Kronborg Castle is
+interesting to us, in addition, as being the place where Anne of Denmark
+was married by proxy to James I. of England. Here, also, the "Queen of
+Tears," Caroline Matilda, sister of George III., spent some unhappy
+months in prison, gazing sadly over the Sound, waiting for the English
+ships to come and deliver her.
+
+We pass up the Sound viewing the luxuriant cool green beech-woods of
+Denmark, and the pretty fishing villages lying in the foreground. Villas
+with charming gardens--their tiny rickety landing-stages, bathing sheds,
+and tethered boats, adding fascination to the homely scene--seem to
+welcome us to this land of fairy tales and the home of Hans Andersen.
+
+The many towers and pinnacles of Copenhagen, with the golden dome of the
+Marble Church, flash a welcome as we steam into the magnificent harbour
+of this singularly well-favoured city. Here she stands, this "Queen of
+the North," as a gracious sentinel bowing acquiescence to the passing
+ships as they glide in and out of the Baltic. The broad quays are
+splendidly built, lined with fine warehouses, and present a busy scene
+of commercial activity. The warships lying at their moorings in the
+Sound denote that this is the station of the fleet; here also we see the
+country's only fortress--the formidable bulwarks which surround the
+harbour.
+
+Kjoebenhavn in Danish means "merchants' harbour," and as early as the
+eleventh century it was a trading centre for foreign merchants attracted
+by the rich supply of herrings found by the Danish fishermen in the
+Baltic. Bishop Absalon was the founder of the city. This warrior Bishop
+strongly fortified the place, in 1167, on receiving the little
+settlement from King Valdemar the Great, and had plenty to do to hold
+it, as it was continually harassed by pirates and the Wends. These,
+however, found the Bishop more than a match for them. His outposts would
+cry, "The Wends are coming!" and the Bishop would leave his preaching,
+his bed, or anything else he might be doing, gather his forces together,
+and fight gallantly for his little stronghold. He perhaps recognized
+that this might one day be the key to the Baltic, which it has since
+become.
+
+This city, therefore, is not a new one, but bombardment and
+conflagrations are responsible for its modern appearance. Fortunately,
+some of the handsome edifices raised during the reign of Christian IV.
+(1588-1648) still remain to adorn the city. This monarch was a great
+architect, sailor, warrior, and King, and is one of the most striking
+figures in Danish history. He was beloved by his people, and did much
+for his kingdom. The buildings planned and erected during this monarch's
+reign are worthy of our admiration. The beautiful Exchange, with its
+curious tower formed by four dragons standing on their heads, and
+entwining their tails into a dainty spire; Rosenborg Castle, with its
+delicate pinnacles; the famous "Runde Taarn" (Round Tower), up whose
+celebrated spiral causeway Peter the Great is said to have driven a
+carriage and pair, are amongst the most noteworthy. The originality in
+design of the spires and towers of Copenhagen is quite remarkable. Vor
+Frelsers Kirke, or Church of Our Saviour, has an outside staircase,
+running round the outside of its spire, which leads up to a figure of
+our Saviour, and from this height you get a fine view of the city. The
+tower of the fire-station, in which the fire-hose hangs at full length;
+the copper-sheathed clock and bell tower--the highest in Denmark--of the
+Town Hall; the Eiffel-like tower of the Zoo, are among the most
+singular. In all these towers there is a beautiful blending of copper
+and gold, which gives a distinctive and attractive character to the
+city. Other prominent features are the pretty fish-scale tiling, and the
+copper and bronze roofs of many of the buildings, with their "stepped"
+gables. Charming, too, are the city's many squares and public gardens,
+canals with many-masted ships making an unusual spectacle in the
+streets. But, after all, it is perhaps the innate gaiety of the
+Copenhagener which impresses you most. You feel, indeed, that these
+kindly Danes are a little too content for national development; but
+their light-hearted way of viewing life makes them very pleasant
+friends, and their hospitality is one of their chief characteristics.
+Every lady at the head of a Danish household is an excellent cook and
+manager, as well as being an agreeable and intelligent companion. The
+Copenhagener is a "flat" dweller, and the dining-room is the largest and
+most important room in every home. The Dane thinks much of his dinner,
+and dinner-parties are the principal form of entertainment. They joke
+about their appreciation of the good things of the table, and say, "a
+turkey is not a good table-bird, as it is a little too much for one
+Dane, but not enough for two!" A very pleasant side of Copenhagen life
+has sprung up from this appreciation, for the restaurants and cafes are
+numerous, and cater well for their customers. While the Dane eats he
+must have music, which, like the food, must be good; he is very
+critical, and a good judge of both. This gay cafe and restaurant life is
+one of the fascinations of Denmark's "too-large heart," as this pleasant
+capital is called by its people.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+MERRY COPENHAGEN--II
+
+
+The climate of Copenhagen is delightful in summer, but quite the reverse
+in winter. Andersen says "the north-east wind and the sunbeams fought
+over the 'infant Copenhagen,' consequently the wind and the 'mud-king'
+reign in winter, the sunbeams in summer, and the latter bring
+forgetfulness of winter's hardships." Certainly, when the summer comes,
+the sunshine reigns supreme, and makes Copenhagen bright and pleasant
+for its citizens. Then the many water-ways and canals, running up from
+the sea as they do into the heart of the city, make it delightfully
+refreshing on a hot day. Nyhavn, for instance, which opens out of the
+Kongen's Nytorv--the fashionable centre of the town--is one of the
+quaintest of water-streets. The cobbled way on either side of the water,
+the curious little shops with sailors' and ships' wares, old gabled
+houses, fishing and cargo boats with their forests of masts, the little
+puffing motor-boats plying to and fro--all serve to make a distinctive
+picture. On another canal-side the fish-market is held every morning. A
+Danish fish-market is not a bit like other fish-markets, for the Dane
+must buy his fish alive, and the canal makes this possible. The
+fishing-smacks line up the whole side of the quay; these have perforated
+wooden boat-shaped tanks dragging behind them containing the lively
+fish. The market-women sit on the quay, surrounded by wooden tubs, which
+are half-filled with water, containing the unfortunate fish. A
+trestle-table, on which the fish are killed and cleaned, completes the
+equipment of the fish-wives. The customers scrutinize the contents of
+the tub, choose a fish as best they can from the leaping, gasping
+multitude, and its fate is sealed. When the market-women require more
+fish, the perforated tank is raised from the canal, and the fish
+extracted with a landing-net and deposited in their tubs. Small fish
+only can be kept alive in tanks and tubs; the larger kinds, such as cod,
+are killed and sold in the ordinary way. This market is not at all a
+pleasant sight, so it is better to turn our backs on it, and pass on to
+the fragrant flower-market.
+
+Here the famous Amager women expose their merchandise. This market
+square is a gay spectacle, for the Dane is fond of flowers, and the
+Amager wife knows how to display her bright blooms to advantage. These
+vendors are notable characters. They are the descendants of the Dutch
+gardeners brought over by Christian II. to grow fruit and vegetables for
+Copenhagen, and settled on the fertile island of Amager which abuts on
+the city. Every morning these Amager peasants may be seen driving their
+laden carts across the bridge which joins their island to the mainland.
+These genial, stout, but sometimes testy Amager wives have it all their
+own way in the market-place, and are clever in attracting and befooling
+a customer. So it has become a saying, if you look sceptical about what
+you are told, the "story-teller" will say, "Ask Amager mother!" which
+means, "Believe as much as you like." These women still wear their
+quaint costume: bulky petticoats, clean checked apron, shoulder-shawl,
+and poke-bonnets with white kerchief over them; and the merry twinkle of
+satisfaction in the old face when a good bargain has been completed
+against the customer's inclination is quite amusing. These interesting
+old characters are easily irritated, and this the little Copenhageners
+know full well. When stalls are being packed for departure, a naughty
+band of urchins will appear round the corner and call out:
+
+ "Amager mother, Amager mo'er,
+ Give us carrots from your store;
+ You are so stout and roundabout,
+ Please tell us if you find the door
+ Too small to let you through!"
+
+The Amager wife's wrath is soon roused, and she is often foolish enough
+to try and move her bulky proportions somewhat quicker than usual in
+order to catch the boys. This of course she never manages to do, for
+they dart away in all directions. By this means the Amager woman gets a
+little much-needed exercise, the boys a great deal of amusement.
+
+[Illustration: THE FLOWER MARKET, COPENHAGEN.]
+
+Sunday is a fete-day in Copenhagen, and the Dane feels no obligation to
+attend a Church service before starting out on his Sunday expedition. A
+day of leisure means a day of pleasure to the Copenhagener. The State
+helps and encourages him by having cheap fares, and good but inexpensive
+performances at the theatre and places of entertainment on Sunday. Even
+the poorest people manage to spare money for this periodical outing,
+mother and children taking their full share in the simple pleasures of
+the day. The Copenhagener looks forward to this weekly entertainment,
+and longs for the fresh air. This is not surprising, for many homes are
+stuffy, ventilation and open windows not seeming a necessity. A fine
+summer Sunday morning sees a leisurely stream of people--the Danes never
+hurry themselves--making for tram, train, or motor-boat, which will
+carry them off to the beautiful woods and shores lying beyond the city.
+Basking in the sunshine, or enjoying a stroll through the woods,
+feasting on the contents of their picnic baskets, with a cup of coffee
+or glass of pilsener at a cafe where music is always going on, they
+spend a thoroughly happy day. In the evening the tired but still joyous
+throng return home, all the better for the simple and pleasant outing.
+No country uses the bicycle more than Denmark, and Sunday is the day
+when it is used most. For the people who prefer to take their dinner at
+home on Sunday there is the pleasant stroll along the celebrated
+Langelinie. This famous promenade, made upon the old ramparts,
+overlooks the Sound with its innumerable yachts skimming over the blue
+water, and is a delightful place for pedestrians. A walk round the moat
+of the Citadel, on the waters of which the children sail their little
+boats, is also enjoyable. This Citadel, now used as barracks, was built
+by Frederik III. in 1663, and formerly served as a political prison.
+Struensee, the notorious Prime Minister, was imprisoned here and
+beheaded for treason. A few narrow, picturesque streets surrounding this
+fort are all that remain of old Copenhagen.
+
+The art treasures contained in the museums of Copenhagen being renowned,
+I must tell you a little about them. Two or three of the palaces not now
+required by the Royal Family are used to store some of these treasures.
+Rosenborg Castle, built by Christian IV., and in which he died, contains
+a collection of family treasures belonging to the Oldenburg dynasty.
+This historical collection of these art-loving Kings is always open to
+the public. Besides Thorvaldsen's Museum, which contains the greater
+portion of his works, there is the Carlsberg Glyptotek, which contains
+the most beautiful sculpture of the French School outside France. The
+Danish Folk-Museum is another interesting collection. This illustrates
+the life and customs of citizens and peasants from the seventeenth
+century to the present day, partly by single objects, and partly by
+representations of their dwellings. The "Kunstmusaeet" contains a superb
+collection of pictures, sculpture, engravings, and national relics.
+Here a table may be seen which formerly stood in Christian II.'s prison.
+History tells how the unhappy King was wont to pace round this table for
+hours taking his daily exercise, leaning upon his hand, which in time
+ploughed a groove in its hard surface. The Amalienborg, a fine
+tessellated square, contains four Royal palaces, in one of which our
+Queen Alexandra spent her girlhood. From the windows of these palaces
+the daily spectacle of changing the guard is witnessed by the King and
+young Princes.
+
+Copenhagen is celebrated for its palaces, its parks, porcelain,
+statuary, art-treasures, and last, but not least, its gaiety.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+HANS CHRISTIAN ANDERSEN, THE "FAIRY TALE" OF HIS LIFE
+
+
+I suppose the Dane best known to English boys and girls is Hans
+Christian Andersen, whose charming fairy-tales are well known and loved
+by them all. Most of you, however, know little about his life, but are
+interested enough in him, I dare say, to wish to learn more, especially
+as the knowledge will give you keener delight--if that is possible--in
+reading the works of this "Prince of Story-tellers."
+
+Andersen himself said: "My life has been so wonderful and so like a
+fairy-tale, that I think I had a fairy godmother who granted my every
+wish, for if I had chosen my own life's way, I could not have chosen
+better."
+
+Hans C. Andersen was the son of a poor shoemaker, an only child, born in
+Odense, the capital of the Island of Funen. His parents were devoted to
+him, and his father, who was of a studious turn of mind, delighted in
+teaching his little son and interesting him in Nature. Very early in
+life Hans was taken for long Sunday rambles, his father pointing out to
+him the beauties of woods and meadows, or enchanting him with stories
+from the "Arabian Nights."
+
+At home the evenings were spent in dressing puppets for his favourite
+show, or else, sitting on his father's knee, he listened while the
+latter read aloud to his mother scenes from Holberg's plays. All day
+Hans played with his puppet theatre, and soon began to imagine plays and
+characters for the dolls, writing out programmes for them as soon as he
+was able. Occasionally his grandmother would come and take the child to
+play in the garden of the big house where she lived in the gardener's
+lodge. These were red-letter days for little Hans, as he loved his
+granny and enjoyed most thoroughly the pleasant garden and pretty
+flowers.
+
+The boy's first great trouble came when his father caught a fever and
+died, leaving his mother without any means of support. To keep the
+little home together his mother went out washing for her neighbours,
+leaving little Hans to take care of himself. Being left to his own
+devices, Hans developed his theatrical tendencies by constructing
+costumes for his puppets, and making them perform his plays on the stage
+of his toy theatre. Soon he varied this employment by reading plays and
+also writing some himself. His mother, though secretly rejoicing in her
+son's talent, soon saw the necessity for his doing something more
+practical with his time and assisting her to keep the home together. So
+at twelve years of age Hans was sent to a cloth-weaving factory, where
+he earned a small weekly wage. The weavers soon discovered that Hans
+could sing, and the men frequently made him amuse them, while the other
+boys were made to do his work. One day the weavers played a coarse
+practical joke on poor sensitive Hans, which sent him flying home in
+such deep distress that his mother said he should not again return to
+the factory.
+
+Hans was now sent to the parish school for a few hours daily, and his
+spare time was taken up with his "peep-show" and in fashioning smart
+clothes for his puppets. His mother intended to apprentice her son to
+the tailoring, but Hans had fully made up his mind to become an actor
+and seek his fortune in Copenhagen. After his Confirmation--on which
+great occasion he wore his father's coat and his first new boots--his
+mother insisted on his being apprenticed without further delay. With
+difficulty he finally succeeded in persuading her to let him start for
+the capital with his few savings. His mother had married again, so could
+not accompany him; therefore, with reluctance and with many injunctions
+to return at once if all did not turn out well, she let him go.
+Accompanying him to the town gate, they passed a gipsy on the way, who,
+on being asked what fortune she could prophesy for the poor lad, said he
+would return a great man, and his native place would be illuminated and
+decorated in his honour!
+
+Hans arrived in Copenhagen on September 5, a date which he considered
+lucky for ever after. A few days in the city soon saw an end to his
+money. He applied and got work at a carpenter's shop, but was driven
+away by the coarseness of his fellow-workers. Hans made a friend of the
+porter at the stage-door of the theatre, and begged for some employment
+in the theatre; so occasionally he was allowed to walk across the stage
+in a crowd, but obtained scanty remuneration, and the lad was often
+hungry. Starving and destitute, the happy idea occurred to our hero to
+try and earn something by his voice. He applied to Siboni, the Director
+of the Music School, and was admitted to his presence whilst the latter
+was at dinner. Fortunately for Hans, Baggersen the poet and Weyse the
+celebrated composer were of the party, so for their amusement the boy
+was asked to sing and recite. Weyse was so struck by the quality of his
+voice and Baggersen with his poetic feeling, that they made a collection
+among them there and then for him, and Siboni undertook to train his
+voice. Unfortunately, in six months' time his voice gave way, and Siboni
+counselled him to learn a trade. Hans returned to the theatre in the
+hope of employment, and his persistence finally gained him a place in a
+market scene. Making a friend of the son of the librarian, he obtained
+permission to read at the library, and he wrote tragedies and plays,
+some of which he took to the director of the theatre. This man became
+Andersen's friend for life, for the grains of gold which he saw in his
+work, marred though it was by want of education, roused his interest.
+The director brought Andersen to the notice of the King, and he was sent
+to the Latin school, where he took his place--although now a grown
+man--among the boys in the lowest class but one. The master's tongue was
+sharp, and the sensitive youth was dismayed by his own ignorance. The
+kindness and sympathetic encouragement of the director was the only
+brightness of this period of Hans' life. University life followed that
+of school, and Andersen took a good degree. He now wrote a play, which
+was accepted and produced at the theatre with such success that he wept
+for joy. Soon his poems were published, and happiness and prosperity
+followed. Later the King granted him a travelling stipend, of forty-five
+pounds a year, and travelling became his greatest pleasure. Andersen
+visited England two or three times, and reckoned Charles Dickens among
+his friends. He was the honoured guest of Kings and Princes, and the
+Royal Family of Denmark treated him as a personal friend.
+
+Though his "Fairy Tales" are the best known of his writings, he wrote
+successful novels, dramas and poems. Andersen's tastes were simple, and
+his child-like, affectionate nature made him much beloved by all. His
+native town, which he left as a poor boy, was illuminated and decorated
+to welcome his return. Thus the gipsy's prophecy came true. He died
+after the public celebration of his seventieth birthday, leaving all his
+fortune to the family of his beloved benefactor, the director of the
+theatre. A beautiful bronze monument is erected to his memory in the
+children's garden of the King's Park, Copenhagen. Here the little Danes
+have ever a gentle reminder of their great friend, Hans C. Andersen, who
+felt--to use his own words--"like a poor boy who had had a King's mantle
+thrown over him."
+
+[Illustration: DRAGOeR PEASANT.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+FAMOUS DANES
+
+
+Bertel Thorvaldsen (1770-1844), the famous Danish sculptor, was born in
+Copenhagen. His father was an Icelander, his mother a Dane, and both
+very poor. Bertel's ambition when a little boy was to work his mother's
+spinning-wheel, which, of course, he was never permitted to do. One
+bright, moonlight night his parents were awakened by a soft, whirring
+sound, and found their little son enjoying his realized ambition. In the
+moonlit room he had successfully started the wheel and begun to spin,
+much to his parents' astonishment. This was the beginning of his
+creative genius, but many years went over his youthful head before he
+created the works which made him famous. His father carved wooden
+figure-heads for ships, and intended his son to follow the same calling.
+Bertel, however, soon showed talent and inclination for something
+better, and was sent to the Free School of the Art Academy, there making
+great progress. He received very little education beyond what the Art
+School gave him, and his youthful days were hard and poverty-stricken.
+When his hours at the Academy were over he went from house to house
+trying to sell his models, and in this way eked out a scanty living. In
+spite of his poverty he was wholly satisfied, for his wants were few.
+His dog and his pipe, both necessities for happiness, accompanied him in
+all his wanderings.
+
+His true artistic career only began in earnest when he won a travelling
+scholarship and went to Rome, where he arrived on his twenty-seventh
+birthday. Stimulated to do his best by the many beautiful works of art
+which surrounded him, he found production easy, and the classical beauty
+of the Roman school appealed to him. Regretting his wasted years, he set
+to work in great earnest, and during the rest of his life produced a
+marvellous amount of beautiful work. A rich Scotsman bought his first
+important work, and the money thus obtained was the means of starting
+him firmly on his upward career. This highly talented Dane founded the
+famous Sculpture School of Denmark, which is of world-wide reputation.
+Thorvaldsen's beautiful designs--which were mainly classical--were
+conceived with great rapidity, and his pupils carried many of them out,
+becoming celebrated sculptors also. Dying suddenly in 1844, while seated
+in the stalls of the theatre watching the play, his loss was a national
+calamity. He bequeathed all his works to the nation, and these now form
+the famous Thorvaldsen Museum, which attracts the artistic-loving people
+of all nations to the city of Copenhagen.
+
+In the courtyard of this museum lies the great man's simple grave, his
+beautiful works being contained in the building which surrounds it.
+
+At the top of this Etruscan tomb stands a fine bronze allegorical
+group--the Goddess of Victory in her car, drawn by prancing
+horses--fitting memorial to this greatest of northern sculptors.
+
+Holger Drachmann was the son of a physician, and quite early in life
+became a man of letters. Following the profession of an artist, he
+became a very good marine painter. This poet loved the sea in all its
+moods, and was never happier than when at Skagen--the extreme northern
+point of Jutland--where he spent most of his summers. His painting was
+his favourite pastime, but poetry the serious work of his life. He was a
+very prolific writer, not only of verse and lyrical poems, but of plays
+and prose works, and was a very successful playwright. Drachmann's
+personality was a strong one, though not always agreeable to his
+countrymen. He had a freedom-loving spirit, and lived every moment of
+his life. Some of his best poems are about the Skaw fishermen, and later
+in life he settled down among them, dying at Skagen in 1907. He was a
+picturesque figure, with white flowing locks, erratic and unpractical,
+as poets often are. Like other famous Danes, he chose a unique
+burial-place. Away at Grenen, in the sand-dunes, overlooking the
+fighting waters of the Skagerack and Cattegat, stands his
+cromlech-shaped tomb, near the roar of the sea he loved so much, where
+time and sand will soon obliterate all that remains of the Byron of
+Denmark.
+
+Nikolai Frederik Grundtvig, the founder of the popular high-schools for
+peasants, was born at his father's parsonage, Udby, South Seeland. He
+was sent to school in Jutland, and soon learned to love his wild native
+moors. While attending the Latin School in Aarhus he made friends with
+an old shoemaker, who used to tell him interesting stories of the old
+Norse heroes and sagas, often repeating the old Danish folk-songs. The
+lad being a true Dane, a descendant of the old vikings, he soon became
+very interested in the history of his race. Being sent to the University
+of Copenhagen, he chose to study Icelandic in order to read the ancient
+sagas, English to read Shakespeare, and German to read Goethe. This
+studious youth was most patriotic, and the poetry of his country
+appealed to him especially. Oehlenschlaeger's (a Danish poet) works fired
+his poetical imagination.
+
+Grundtvig's poems were for the people, the beloved Jutland moors and
+Nature generally his theme. His songs and poems are loved by the
+peasants, and used at all their festivals. He wrote songs "that would
+make bare legs skip at sound of them," and, "like a bird in the
+greenwood, he would sing for the country-folk." So successfully did he
+write these folk-songs, that "bare legs" do skip at the sound of them
+even to-day at every festivity. He was an educational enthusiast, and
+his high-schools are peculiar to Denmark. It is owing to these that the
+country possesses such a splendid band of peasant farmers. Being a
+priest, he was given the honorary title of Bishop, and founded a sect
+called "Grundtvigianere."
+
+This noble man died in 1872, over ninety years of age, working and
+preaching till the last, his deep-set eyes, flowing white hair and
+beard, making him look like Moses of old.
+
+Adam Oehlenschlaeger, the greatest Danish dramatist and poet, was a
+Professor at the University of Copenhagen, and a marvellously gifted
+man. He developed and gave character to Danish literature, and is known
+as the "Goethe of the North." Some of his finest tragedies have been
+translated into English. These have a distinctly northern ring about
+them, dealing as they do with the legends and sagas of the Scandinavian
+people. These tragedies of the mythical heroes of Scandinavia, the
+history of their race, and, indeed, all the works of this king of
+northern poets, are greatly loved by all Scandinavians. Every young Dane
+delights in Oehlenschlaeger as we do in Shakespeare, and by reading his
+works the youths of Denmark lay the foundation of their education in
+poetry. This bard was crowned Laureate in Lund (Sweden) by the greatest
+of Swedish poets, Esaias Tegner, 1829. Buried by his own request at his
+birth-place, Frederiksberg, two Danish miles (which means eight English
+miles) from Copenhagen, his loving countrymen insisted on carrying him
+the whole distance, so great was their admiration for this King of
+dramatists.
+
+Niels Ryberg Finsen, whose name I am sure you have heard because his
+scientific research gave us the "light-cure"--which has been established
+at the London Hospital by our Queen Alexandra, who generously gave the
+costly apparatus required for the cure in order to benefit afflicted
+English people--was born at Thorshavn, the capital of the Faroe Islands.
+These islands are under Denmark, and lie north of the Shetlands. His
+father was magistrate there. His parents were Icelanders. At twelve
+years of age Niels was sent to school in Denmark, and after a few years
+at the Grammar School of Herlufholm, he returned to his parents, who
+were now stationed in their native town, Reykjavik, the capital of
+Iceland. Niels continued his studies there, and when old enough returned
+to Denmark to commence his medical work at the University of Copenhagen.
+
+Hitherto he had shown no particular aptitude, but in his medical work he
+soon distinguished himself, and his skill gained him a place in the
+laboratory. He now began to study the effect of light as a curative
+remedy. All his life Finsen thought the sunlight the most beautiful
+thing in the world--perhaps because he saw so little of it in his
+childhood. He had watched its wonderful effect on all living things,
+being much impressed by the transformation caused in nature by the warm
+life-giving rays. With observations on lizards, which he found
+charmingly responsive to sun effects, he accidentally made his
+discovery, and gave to the world this famous remedy for diseases of the
+skin, which has relieved thousands of sufferers of all nations.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+LEGENDARY LORE AND FOLK DANCES
+
+
+The legend of Holger Danske, who is to be Denmark's deliverer when heavy
+troubles come upon her, is one which has its counterpart in other
+countries, resembling that of our own King Arthur and the German
+Frederick Barbarossa. When Denmark's necessity demands, Holger Danske
+will come to her aid; till then he sits "in the deep dark cellar of
+Kronborg Castle, into which none may enter. He is clad in iron and
+steel, and rests his head on his strong arms; his long beard hangs down
+upon the marble table, into which it has become firmly rooted; he sleeps
+and dreams. But in his dreams he sees all that happens in Denmark. On
+each Christmas Eve an angel comes to him and tells him all he has
+dreamed is true, and that he may sleep again in peace, as Denmark is not
+yet in real danger. But should danger ever come, then Holger Danske will
+rouse himself, and the table will burst asunder as he draws out his
+beard. Then he will come forth in all his strength, and strike a blow
+that shall sound in all the countries of the world."
+
+Holger Danske was the son of the Danish King Gotrick. While he was a
+youth his father sent him to Carolus Magnus, whom he served during all
+his wars. Thus he came to India, where he ate a fruit which made his
+body imperishable. When Denmark is near ruin, and all her young men have
+been slain in defending her, then Holger Danske will appear, and,
+gathering round him all the young boys and aged men, will lead them on
+to victory, routing the enemy, and thus saving the country. When a
+little plant growing in the Lake of Viborg has become a tree, so large
+that you can tie your horse to it, then the time draws near when all
+this will happen.
+
+Once upon a time the Danes were in great trouble, for they had no King.
+But one day they saw a barque, splendidly decked, sailing towards the
+coast of Denmark. As the ship came nearer the shore they saw it was
+laden with quantities of gold and weapons, but not a soul was to be seen
+on board. When the Danes boarded the ship, they found a little boy lying
+asleep on the deck, and above his head floated a golden banner. Thinking
+that their god Odin had sent the boy, they brought him ashore and
+proclaimed him King. They named him Skjold, and he became a great and
+good King. His fame was such that the Danish Kings to this day are
+called "Skjoldunger." When this King died, his body was placed on board
+a ship which was loaded with treasure; and when it sailed slowly away
+over the blue water, the Danes stood on the shore looking after it with
+sorrow. What became of the ship no one ever knew.
+
+Denmark is rich in legends. There is the legend about the "Danebrog,"
+Denmark's national flag, which is a white cross on a crimson ground.
+This bright and beautiful flag looks thoroughly at home whatever its
+surroundings. The story goes that when Valdemar Seir (the Victorious)
+descended on the shores of Esthonia to help the knights who were hard
+pressed in a battle with the heathen Esthonians (1219), a miracle befell
+him. The valour of his troops soon made an impression on the pagans, and
+they began to sue for peace. It was granted, and the priests baptized
+the supposed converts. Very soon, however, the Esthonians, who had been
+secretly reinforcing while pretending submission, in order to throw dust
+in the eyes of the too confiding Danes, brought up their forces and
+commenced fighting anew. "It was the eve of St. Vitus, and the Danes
+were singing Vespers in camp, when suddenly a wild howl rang through the
+summer evening, and the heathens poured out of the woods, attacked the
+surprised Danes on all sides, and quickly thinned their ranks. The Danes
+began to waver, but the Prince of Rugen, who was stationed on the hill,
+had time to rally his followers and stay the progress of the enemy. It
+was a terrible battle. The Archbishop Andreas Sunesen with his priests
+mounted the hill to lay the sword of prayer in the scales of battle; the
+Danes rallied, and their swords were not blunt when they turned upon
+their enemies. Whilst the Archbishop and others prayed, the Danes were
+triumphant; but when his arms fell to his side through sheer weariness,
+the heathens prevailed. Then the priests supported the aged man's arms,
+who, like Moses of old, supplicated for his people with extended hands.
+The battle was still raging, and the banner of the Danes had been lost
+in the fight. As the prayers continued the miracle happened. A red
+banner, with the Holy Cross in white upon it, came floating gently down
+from the heavens, and a voice was heard saying, 'When this sign is borne
+on high you shall conquer.' The tide of battle turned, the Christians
+gathered themselves together under the banner of the Cross, and the
+heathens were filled with fear and fled. Then the Danes knelt down on
+the battle-field and praised God, while King Valdemar drew his sword,
+and for the first time under the folds of the Danebrog dubbed
+five-and-thirty of the bravest heroes knights." Another legend tells the
+fate of a wicked Queen of Denmark, Gunhild by name. This Queen was first
+the consort of a Norwegian monarch, who, finding her more than he or his
+people could stand, thrust her out of his kingdom. She made her way to
+Denmark, and soon after married the Danish King. Though beautiful, Queen
+Gunhild's pride and arrogance made her hateful to her new subjects, and
+her attendants watched their opportunity to rid themselves of such an
+obnoxious mistress. The time came for them when the Queen was travelling
+through Jutland. A sign was given to her bearers, whilst journeying
+through the marshes near Vejle, to drop her down into the bog. This was
+done, and a stake driven through her body. To-day in the church at Vejle
+a body lies enclosed in a glass coffin, with a stake lying beside it,
+the teeth and long black hair being in excellent preservation. This body
+was found in 1821, when the marshes near Vejle were being drained for
+cultivation. The stake was found through it, thus giving colour to the
+tradition. Poor Queen! lost in the eleventh century and found in the
+nineteenth.
+
+
+_Folk-dancers._
+
+The Danes, like all the Scandinavians, are renowned for their love of
+dancing. Lately they have revived the beautiful old folk-dances,
+realizing at last the necessity of keeping the ancient costumes, dances
+and songs before the people, if they would not have them completely
+wiped out. A few patriotic Danes have formed a society of ladies and
+gentlemen to bring about this revival. These are called the
+folk-dancers, their object being to stimulate the love of old-time
+Denmark in the modern Dane, by showing him the dance, accompanied by
+folk-song, which his forefathers delighted in. Old-time ways the Dane of
+to-day is perhaps a little too ready to forget, but dance and song
+appeal to his northern nature. The beautiful old costumes of the Danish
+peasants have almost entirely disappeared, but those worn by the
+folk-dancers are facsimiles of the costumes formerly worn in the
+districts they represent. These costumes, with heavy gold embroidery,
+curious hats, or pretty velvet caps, weighty with silver lace, must have
+been a great addition to local colouring. The men also wore a gay dress,
+and it is to be regretted that these old costumes have disappeared from
+the villages and islands of Denmark.
+
+In olden times the voice was the principal accompaniment of the dance,
+and these folk-lorists generally sing while dancing; but occasionally a
+fiddler or flautist plays for them, and becomes the leader in the dance.
+Some of these dances are of a comical nature, and no doubt were invented
+to parody the shortcomings of some local character. Others represent
+local industries. A pretty dance is "Voeve Vadmel" (cloth-weaving). In
+this some dancers become the bobbins, others form the warp and woof;
+thus they go in and out, weaving themselves into an imaginary piece of
+cloth. Then, rolling themselves into a bale, they stand a moment,
+unwind, reverse, and then disperse. This dance is accompanied by the
+voices of the dancers, who, as they sing, describe each movement of the
+dance. A very curious dance is called "Seven Springs," and its principal
+figure is a series of springs from the floor, executed by the lady,
+aided by her partner. Another two are called respectively the "Men's
+Pleasure" and the "Girls' Pleasure." In these both men and girls choose
+their own partners, and coquet with them by alluring facial expressions
+during the dance. The "Tinker's Dance" is a solo dance for a man, which
+is descriptive and amusing; while the "Degnedans" is more an amusing
+performance in pantomime than a dance, executed by two men. Many more
+than I can tell you about have been revived by the folk-dancers, who
+take a keen delight in discovering and learning them. They are
+entertaining and instructive to the looker-on, and a healthy, though
+fatiguing, amusement for the dancers.
+
+In the Faroe Islands the old-time way is still in vogue, and the dance
+is only accompanied by the voice and clapping of hands. Thus do these
+descendants of the old vikings keep high festival to celebrate a good
+"catch" of whales.
+
+The old folk-songs, which were sung by the people when dancing and at
+other times, have a national value which the Danes fully realize, many
+being written down and treasured in the country's archives.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+MANNERS AND CUSTOMS
+
+
+The Danes being a polite and well-mannered race, the children are early
+taught to tender thanks for little pleasures, and this they do in a
+pretty way by thrusting out their tiny hands and saying, "Tak" (Thank
+you). It is the Danish custom to greet everybody, including the
+servants, with "Good-morning," and always on entering a shop you give
+greeting, and say farewell on leaving. In the market-place it is the
+same; also the children, when leaving school, raise their caps to the
+teacher and call out, "Farvel! farvel!" In the majority of houses when
+the people rise from the table they say, "Tak for Mad"[1] to the host,
+who replies, "Velbekomme."[2] The children kiss their parents and say
+the same, while the parents often kiss each other and say, "Velbekomme."
+The Danes are rather too eager to wipe out old customs, and in
+Copenhagen the fashionable people ignore this pretty ceremony. The
+majority, however, feel uncomfortable if not allowed to thank their host
+or hostess for their food.
+
+[Illustration: CHILDREN'S DAY.]
+
+A Danish lady, about to visit England for the first time, was told
+that here it was customary to say "Grace" after meals. The surprise of
+the English host may be imagined when his Danish guest, on rising from
+the table, solemnly put out her hand and murmured the word "Grace!"
+After a day or two, when this ceremony had been most dutifully performed
+after every meal, the Englishman thought he had better ask for an
+explanation. This was given, and the young Dane joined heartily in the
+laugh against herself!
+
+The Danes begin their day with a light breakfast of coffee, fresh rolls,
+and butter, but the children generally have porridge, or "oellebroed,"
+before starting for school. This distinctly Danish dish is made of
+rye-bread, beer, milk, cream, and sometimes with the addition of a
+beaten-up egg. This "Ske-Mad"[3] is very sustaining, but I fear would
+prove a little too much for those unaccustomed to it. Ollebroed also is
+the favourite Saturday supper-dish of the working-classes, with the
+addition of salt herrings and slices of raw onion, which doubtless
+renders it more piquant.
+
+At noon "Mid-dag"[4] is served. Another peculiar delicacy common both to
+this meal and supper is "Smoerrebroed," a "variety" sandwich consisting of
+a slice of bread and butter covered with sausage, ham, fish, meat,
+cheese, etc. making a tempting display, not hidden as in our sandwich by
+a top layer of bread. The Danes are very hospitable, and often invite
+poor students to dine with them regularly once a week. Dinner consists
+of excellent soup (in summer made of fruit or preserves), meat, pudding
+or fruit, and cream, and even the poorest have coffee after this meal.
+
+Prunes, stewed plums or apples, and sometimes cranberry jam, are always
+served with the meat or game course, together with excellent but rather
+rich sauce. The Danish housewife prides herself on the latter, as her
+cooking abilities are often judged by the quality of her sauces. It is
+quite usual for the Danish ladies to spend some months in learning
+cooking and housekeeping in a large establishment to complete their
+education.
+
+"Vaer saa god"[5] says the maid or waiter when handing you anything, and
+this formula is repeated by everyone when they wish you to enter a room,
+or, in fact, to do anything.
+
+Birthdays and other anniversaries are much thought of in Denmark. The
+"Foedelsdagsbarn"[6] is generally given pretty bouquets or pots of
+flowers, as well as presents. Flowers are used on every joyous occasion.
+Students, both men and women, may be seen almost covered with bright
+nosegays, given by their friends to celebrate any examination
+successfully passed.
+
+Christmas Eve, and not Christmas Day, is the festive occasion in
+Denmark. Everybody, including the poorest, must have a Christmas-tree,
+and roast goose, apple-cake, rice porridge with an almond in it, form
+the banquet. The lucky person who finds the almond receives an extra
+present, and much mirth is occasioned by the search. The tree is lighted
+at dusk, and the children dance round it and sing. This performance
+opens the festivities; then the presents are given, dinner served, and
+afterwards the young people dance.
+
+Christmas Day is kept quietly, but the day after (St. Stephen's Day) is
+one of merriment and gaiety, when the people go from house to house to
+greet their friends and "skaal" with them.
+
+New Year's Eve brings a masque ball for the young folk, a supper,
+fireworks, and at midnight a clinking of glasses, when healths are drunk
+in hot punch.
+
+On Midsummer's Night fires are lighted all over the country, and people
+gather together to watch the burning of the tar-barrels. Near a lake or
+on the seashore the reflections glinting on the water make a strangely
+brilliant sight. On some of the fjords a water carnival makes a pretty
+addition to these fires, which the children are told have been lighted
+to scare the witches!
+
+The Monday before Lent is a holiday in all the schools. Early in the
+morning the children, provided with decorated sticks, "fastelavns Ris,"
+rouse their parents and others from slumber. All who are found asleep
+after a certain time must pay a forfeit of Lenten buns. Later in the day
+the children dress themselves up in comical costume and parade the
+streets, asking money from the passer-by as our children do on Guy
+Fawkes' Day.
+
+A holy-day peculiar to Denmark is called "Store-Bededag" (Great Day of
+Prayer), on the eve of which (Danes keep eves of festivals only) the
+church bells ring and the people promenade in their best clothes.
+"Store-Bededag" is the fourth Friday after Easter, and all business is
+at a standstill, so that the people can attend church. On Whit-Sunday
+some of the young folks rise early to see the sun dance on the water and
+wash their faces in the dew. This is in preparation for the greatest
+holiday in the year, Whit-Monday, when all give themselves up to outdoor
+pleasure.
+
+"Grundlovsdag," which is kept in commemoration of the granting of a free
+Constitution to the nation by Frederik VII., gives the town bands and
+trade-unions an opportunity to parade the streets and display their
+capability in playing national music. "Children's Day" is a school
+holiday, and the children dress in the old picturesque Danish costumes;
+they then go about the town and market-places begging alms for the
+sanatoriums in their collecting-boxes. In this way a large sum is
+collected for these charities.
+
+"Knocking-the-cat-out-of-the-barrel" is an old custom of the peasantry
+which takes place the Monday before Lent. The young men dress themselves
+gaily, and, armed with wooden clubs, hie them to the village green. Here
+a barrel is suspended with a cat inside it. Each man knocks the barrel
+with his club as he runs underneath it, and he who knocks a hole big
+enough to liberate poor puss is the victor. The grotesque costumes, the
+difficulty of stooping and running under the barrel in them, when all
+your energies and attention are required for the blow, result in many a
+comical catastrophe, which the bystanders enjoy heartily. Puss is
+frightened, but not hurt, and I think it would be just as amusing
+without the cat, but the Danish peasants think otherwise. Another
+pastime which takes place on the same day is called "ring-riding." The
+men, wearing paper hats and gay ribbons, gallop round the course, trying
+to snatch a suspended ring in passing. The man who takes the ring three
+times in succession is called "King," he who takes it twice "Prince."
+When the sport is over, King and Prince, with their train of
+unsuccessful competitors, ride round to the farms and demand refreshment
+for their gay cavalcade, of which "AEleskiver," a peasant delicacy,
+washed down by a glass of aqua-vitae, forms a part.
+
+On the eve of "Valborg's Dag" (May-Day) bonfires are lighted, and the
+young Danes have a dinner and dance given to them. Each dance is so long
+that it is customary for the young men to change their partners two or
+three times during the waltz.
+
+A beautiful custom is still preserved among the older peasantry: when
+they cross the threshold of their neighbour's house they say, "God's
+peace be in this house."
+
+All domestic servants, students, and other people who reside away from
+home for a time, take about with them a chest of drawers as well as a
+trunk. I suppose they find this necessary, because in Denmark a chest of
+drawers is seldom provided in a bedroom.
+
+When the first snowdrops appear, the boys and girls gather some and
+enclose them in a piece of paper, on which is written a poem. This
+"Vintergaekke-Brev," which they post to their friends, is signed by
+ink-spots, as numerous as the letters in their name. The friend must
+guess the name of the sender within a week, or the latter demands a
+gift.
+
+Confirmation means coming-out in Denmark. As this is the greatest
+festival of youth, the young folk are loaded with presents; then girls
+put up their hair and boys begin to smoke.
+
+The marriage of a daughter is an expensive affair for parents in
+Denmark, as they are supposed to find all the home for the bride, as
+well as the trousseau. The wedding-ring is worn by both while engaged,
+as well as after the marriage ceremony.
+
+The Epiphany is celebrated in many homes by the burning of three
+candles, and the children are given a holiday on this, the festival of
+the Three Kings. No doubt you know this is a commemoration of the three
+wise men of the East presenting their offerings of gold, frankincense,
+and myrrh to our Lord.
+
+Storks are considered the sacred birds of Denmark. These harbingers of
+good-luck the children take great interest in, and more especially in
+the growth of the stork family on the roof-tree.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND--I
+
+
+Jutland is the only province left to Denmark which can claim to be
+mainland, and though it is the most northern part of the country, some
+of its scenery is very beautiful.
+
+The "Jyde," as the people of Jutland are called, are proud of their
+birthplace, of their language, and of their pronunciation, which the
+Copenhageners call "accent," but the Jyde declare they speak the purest
+Danish in the kingdom. However this may be, I am not in a position to
+judge, but I do know that I can understand the Jyde Danish better, and
+that it falls upon my ear with a more pleasing sound than does the
+Danish of the Copenhageners.
+
+The east coast of Jutland is quite charming, so we will start our tour
+from the first interesting spot on this route, and try to obtain a
+glimpse of the country.
+
+In Kolding stands a famous castle, which was partially burnt down in
+1808. This gigantic ruin is now covered in, and used as an historical
+museum for war relics.
+
+Fredericia is a very important place. Here that part of the train which
+contains the goods, luggage, and mails, as well as the first-class
+passenger carriages for Copenhagen, is shunted on to the large steam
+ferry-boat waiting to receive it. This carries it across the smiling
+waters of the Little Belt. A fresh engine then takes it across the
+island of Funen to the steam-ferry waiting to carry it across the Great
+Belt to Korsoer, on the shores of Seeland, when a locomotive takes the
+train to Copenhagen in the ordinary way. These steam-ferries are
+peculiar to Denmark, and are specially built and equipped for this work.
+Danish enterprise overcomes the difficulties of transport through a
+kingdom of islands by these ferries.
+
+Fredericia is an old fortified town with mighty city walls, which make a
+fine promenade for the citizens, giving them a charming view of the
+Little Belt's sunlit waters. In this town the Danes won a glorious
+victory over the Prussians in 1849.
+
+Vejle is one of the most picturesque places on the east coast. Along the
+Vejlefjord the tall, straight pines of Jutland are reflected in the
+cool, still depths of blue water, and the tiniest of puffing steamers
+will carry you over to Munkebjerg. The fascinating and famous Munkebjerg
+Forest is very beautiful--a romantic place in which the youthful lovers
+of Denmark delight. These glorious beech woods extend for miles, the
+trees sloping down to the water's edge from a high ridge, whence you
+have a magnificent view of the glittering fjord. Most inviting are
+these cool green shades on a hot summer's day, but when clothed in the
+glowing tints of autumn they present to the eye a feast of gorgeous
+colour. A golden and warm brown carpet of crisp, crackling leaves
+underfoot, the lap of the fjord as a steamer ploughs along, sending the
+water hissing through the bowing reeds which fringe the bank, make the
+soothing sounds which fall on lovers' ears as they wander through these
+pleasant glades.
+
+[Illustration: HARVEST TIME.]
+
+In winter this forest is left to the snow and hoarfrost, and cold, cairn
+beauty holds it fast for many days.
+
+The pretty hotel of Munkebjerg, standing on the summit of the ridge,
+which you espy through a clearing in the trees, is reached by some
+scores of steps from the landing-stage. Patient "Moses," the hotel
+luggage-carrier, awaits the prospective guests at the pier. This
+handsome brown donkey is quite a character, and mounts gaily his own
+private zigzag path leading to the hotel when heavily laden. His
+dejection, however, when returning with empty panniers, is accounted for
+by the circumstance of "No load, no carrot!" at the end of the climb.
+
+Grejsdal is another beautiful spot inland from the fjord, past which the
+primitive local train takes us to Jellinge. In this quaint upland
+village stand the two great barrows, the reputed graves of King Gorm and
+Queen Thyra, his wife, the great-grandparents of Canute the Great, the
+Danish King who ruled over England for twenty years. A beautiful Norman
+church stands between these barrows, and two massive Runic stones tell
+that "Harald the King commanded this memorial to be raised to Gorm, his
+Father, and Thyra, his Mother: the Harald who conquered the whole of
+Denmark and Norway, and Christianized the Danes." Steps lead to the top
+of these grassy barrows, and so large are they that over a thousand men
+can stand at the top. The village children use them as a playground
+occasionally.
+
+Skanderborg, which is prettily situated on a lake, is a celebrated town.
+Here a famous siege took place, in which the valiant Niels Ebbesen fell,
+after freeing his country from the tyrannical rule of the German Count
+Gert.
+
+Aarhus, the capital of Jutland, is the second oldest town in Denmark.
+Its interesting cathedral is the longest in the kingdom, and was built
+in the twelfth century. The town possesses a magnificent harbour, on the
+Cattegat, the shores of which make a pleasant promenade.
+
+Randers is a pretty place, with many quaint thatched houses belonging to
+the sixteenth, seventeenth, and eighteenth centuries. The Gudenaa,
+Denmark's only river, skirts the town. This river is narrow and
+slow-moving, as there are no heights to give it force.
+
+Hobro, situated on a fjord, wears an air of seclusion, lying as it does
+far away from the railway-station. A sail on this fjord will bring us to
+Mariager, the smallest town in Denmark. Renowned are the magnificent
+beech-woods and ancient abbey of this tiny town. In the surroundings we
+have a panoramic view of typical Jutish scenery--a charming landscape in
+the sunset glow, forest, fjord, farmsteads, and moor affording a rich
+variety of still life.
+
+Aalborg, the delightful old market town on the Limfjord, is fascinating,
+especially at night, when its myriad lamps throw long shafts of light
+across the water. Scattered through the town are many old half-timbered
+houses. These beautiful buildings, with their cream-coloured rough-cast
+walls, oak beams, richly carved overhanging eaves, and soft-red tiled
+roofs, show little evidence of the ravages of time. The most famous of
+these houses was built, in the seventeenth century, by Jens Bang, an
+apothecary. The chemist's shop occupies the large ground-floor room, the
+windows of which have appropriate key-stones. On one is carved a man's
+head with swollen face, another with a lolling tongue, and similar
+grotesques.
+
+To be an idler and watch the traffic going to and fro over the pontoon
+bridge which spans the Limfjord is a delightful way of passing the time.
+Warmed by the sun and fanned by the breezes which blow along the fjord,
+you may be amused and interested for hours by the life that streams past
+you. Occasionally the traffic is impeded by the bridge being opened to
+allow the ships to pass through. Small vessels can in this way save time
+and avoid the danger of rounding the north point of Jutland. If you
+look at your map you will see that this fjord cuts through Jutland, thus
+making a short passage from the Cattegat to the North Sea.
+
+Jutland north of the Limfjord is called Vendsyssel. Curious effects of
+mirage may be seen in summer-time in the extensive "Vildmose"[7] of this
+district.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND--II
+
+
+As we pass through Vendsyssel homely farmsteads and windmills add a
+charm to the landscape, while tethered kine and sportive goats complete
+a picture of rural life.
+
+When we arrive at Frederikshavn we come to the end of the State railway.
+This terminus lies close to the port, which is an important place of
+call for the large passenger and cargo steamers bound for Norway and
+other countries, as well as being a refuge for the fishing-fleet.
+
+A slow-moving local train takes us across the sandy wastes to Skagen, a
+straggling village, with the dignity of royal borough, bestowed upon it
+by Queen Margaret, in the fourteenth century, as a reward to the brave
+fishermen who saved from shipwreck some of her kins-folk. Skagen is a
+picturesque and interesting place, the home of many artists, as well as
+a noted seaside resort.
+
+Broendum's Hotel, a celebrated hostelry, where the majority of visitors
+and artists stay, is a delightfully comfortable, homely dwelling. The
+dining-room, adorned with many specimens of the artists' work, is a
+unique and interesting picture-gallery.
+
+On the outskirts of the town the white tower of the old church of Skagen
+may be seen peeping over the sand-dunes. This "stepped" tower, with its
+red-tiled, saddle-back roof, forms a striking feature in this weird and
+lonely landscape. The church itself is buried beneath the sand, leaving
+only the tower to mark the place that is called the "Pompeii of
+Denmark," sand, not lava, being answerable for this entombment. It is
+said that the village which surrounded the church was buried by a
+sandstorm in the fourteenth century. This scene of desolation, on a
+windy day, when the "sand fiend" revels and riots, is best left to the
+booming surf and avoided by those who do not wish to be blinded.
+
+To the south of Skagen lie other curious phenomena created by this
+"Storm King." The "Raabjerg Miler" are vast and characteristic dunes of
+powdery sand in long ridges, like huge waves petrified in the very act
+of turning over! In the neighbouring quicksands trees have been planted,
+but refuse to grow.
+
+Viborg, the old capital of Jutland, possesses an historically
+interesting cathedral. In the crypt stands the tomb of King Eric
+Glipping, as well as those of other monarchs. The interior of the
+cathedral is decorated with fine frescoes by modern artists.
+
+As we journey to Silkeborg we pass through the vast heathland, "Alhede,"
+and are impressed by the plodding perseverance of the heath-folk. The
+marvellous enterprise of the Danes who started and have so successfully
+carried out the cultivation of these barren tracts of land deserves
+admiration. The convicts are employed in this work, planting, trenching,
+and digging, making this waste land ready for the farmer. These men have
+a cap with a visor-like mask, which can be pulled over the face at will.
+This shields the face from the cold blasts so prevalent on these moors;
+also, it prevents the prying eyes of strangers or fellow-workers.
+
+Many baby forests are being nursed into sturdy growth, as a protection
+for farm-lands from the sand and wind storms.
+
+This monotonous-looking heath is not without beauty; indeed, it has a
+melancholy charm for those who dwell on it. The children love it when
+the heather is in bloom, and spend happy days gathering berries from out
+of the gorgeous purple carpet. The great stacks of peat drying in the
+sun denote that this is the principal fuel of the moor-folk.
+
+From Silkeborg we start to see the Himmelbjerget, the mountain of this
+flat country. It rises to a height of five hundred feet, being the
+highest point in Denmark.
+
+'Tis the joy and pride of the Danes, who select this mountain and lake
+district before all others for their honeymoons!
+
+A curious paddle-boat, worked by hand, or a small motor-boat will take
+us over the lake to the foot of Himmelbjerget. Our motor-boat, with
+fussy throb, carries us away down the narrow river which opens into the
+lake. The life on the banks of the river is very interesting. As we sail
+past the pretty villas, with background of cool, green beech-woods, we
+notice that a Danish garden must always have a summer-house to make it
+complete. In these garden-rooms the Danes take all their meals in
+summer-time. The drooping branches of the beech-trees dip, swish, and
+bend to the swirl of water created by our boat, which makes miniature
+waves leap and run along the bank in a playful way. How delightfully
+peaceful the surrounding landscape is as we skim over the silvery lake
+and then land! The climbing of this mountain does not take long. There
+is a splendid view from the top of Himmelbjerget, for the country lies
+spread out like a map before us. This lake district is very beautiful,
+and when the ling is in full bloom, the heather and forest-clad hills
+encircling the lakes blaze with colour.
+
+At Silkeborg the River Gudenaa flows through the lakes Kundsoe and Julsoe,
+becoming navigable, but it is only used by small boats and barges for
+transporting wood from the forests. The termination "Soe" means lake,
+while "Aae" means stream. Steen Steensen Blicher, the poet of Jutland,
+has described this scenery, which he loved so much, quite charmingly in
+some of his lyrical poems. He sings:
+
+ "The Danes have their homes where the fair beeches grow,
+ By shores where forget-me-nots cluster."
+
+This poet did much to encourage the home industries of the
+moor-dwellers, being in sympathy with them, as well as with their lonely
+moorlands.
+
+The old-time moor-dwellers' habitations have become an interesting
+museum in Herning. This little mid-Jutland town is in the centre of the
+moors, so its museum contains a unique collection from the homes of
+these sturdy peasants. The amount of delicate needlework these lonely,
+thrifty folks accomplished in the long winter days is surprising. This
+"Hedebo" needlework is the finest stitchery you can well imagine,
+wrought on home-spun linen with flaxen thread. Such marvellous patterns
+and intricate designs! Little wonder that the best examples are
+treasured by the nation. The men of the family wore a white linen smock
+for weddings and great occasions. So thickly are these overwrought with
+needlework that they will stand alone, and seem to have a woman's
+lifetime spent upon them. Needless to say, these family garments were
+handed down as heirlooms from father to son.
+
+Knitting, weaving, the making of Jyde pottery and wooden shoes (which
+all wear), are among the other industries of these people.
+
+As we journey through Skjern and down the west coast to Esbjerg, the end
+of our journey, we notice the picturesque attire of the field-workers.
+An old shepherd, with vivid blue shirt and sleeveless brown coat, with
+white straggling locks streaming over his shoulders, tends his few
+sheep. This clever old man is doing three things at once--minding his
+sheep, smoking his pipe, and knitting a stocking. The Danes are great
+knitters, men and women being equally good at it. Many girls are
+working in the fields, their various coloured garments making bright
+specks on the landscape. Occasionally a bullock-cart slowly drags its
+way across the field-road, laden with clattering milk-cans. We pass
+flourishing farmsteads, with storks' nests on the roofs. The
+father-stork, standing on one leg, keeping guard over his young, looks
+pensively out over the moors, thinking, no doubt, that soon it will not
+be worth his while to come all the way from Egypt to find frogs in the
+marshes! For the indefatigable Dalgas has roused the dilatory Danes to
+such good purpose that soon the marshes and waste lands of Jutland will
+be no more.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+THE PEOPLE'S AMUSEMENTS
+
+
+"Have you been in Tivoli?" is the first question a Copenhagener would
+ask you on your arrival in the gay capital. If not, your Danish friend
+will carry you off to see these beautiful pleasure-gardens. Tivoli is
+for all classes, and is the most popular place of amusement in Denmark.
+This delightful summer resort is the place of all others in which to
+study the jovial side of the Danish character. Even the King and his
+royal visitors occasionally pay visits, incognito, to these fascinating
+gardens, taking their "sixpenn'orth of fun" with the people, whose good
+manners would never allow them to take the slightest notice of their
+monarch when he is enjoying himself in this way. To children Tivoli is
+the ideal Sunday treat. Every taste is catered for at Tivoli, and the
+Saturday classical concerts have become famous, for one of the Danes'
+chief pleasures is good music. Tivoli becomes fairyland when illuminated
+with its myriad lights outlining the buildings and gleaming through the
+trees. The light-hearted gaiety of the Dane is very infectious, and the
+stranger is irresistibly caught by it. The atmosphere of unalloyed
+merriment which pervades when tables are spread under the trees for the
+alfresco supper is distinctly exhilarating. These gardens have
+amusements for the frivolous also, such as switchbacks, pantomimes of
+the "Punch and Judy" kind, and frequently firework displays, which last
+entertainment generally concludes the evening.
+
+The Royal Theatre in Copenhagen is a national school of patriotism, and
+the healthy spirit of its plays has an ennobling effect on the people.
+Everything is Danish here, and Denmark is the only small nation in
+Europe which has successfully founded a national dramatic art. The
+"Moliere of the North," Ludwig Holberg, was the father of the Danish
+drama, and the first to make the people realize the beauty of their own
+language. This gifted Dane was a great comedy-writer, and had the
+faculty of making his fellows see the comic side of their follies.
+
+The "Royal Ballet" played at this theatre is quite distinctive.
+Bournonville, its creator, was a poet who expressed himself in motion
+instead of words, and these "dumb poems" appeal strongly to the
+Scandinavian character. This poet aimed at something more than
+spectacular effects upon the people: his art consisted in presenting
+instructive tableaux, which, while holding the attention of his
+audience, taught them their traditional history. The delicate daintiness
+of the Danish ballet everyone must appreciate. The exquisite and
+intricate dances, together with the magnificent tableaux, are
+accompanied by wild and magical music of Danish composition.
+Bournonville ballets represent scenes from classical mythology, as well
+as from ancient Scandinavian history, and the Danish people are much
+attached to this Northern composer of ballet. "Ei blot til Lyst"--Not
+only for pleasure--is the motto over this National Theatre door, and it
+is in the Ballet School here that the young Danes begin their training.
+These young folk take great pleasure in learning the beautiful dances,
+as well as in the operatic and dramatic work which they have to study,
+for they must serve a certain period in this, as in any other
+profession.
+
+Another place of amusement which gives pleasure to many of the poorer
+people is the Working Men's Theatre. Actors, musicians, as well as the
+entire management, are all of the working classes, who are trained in
+the evenings by professionals. The result is quite wonderful, and proves
+the pleasure and interest these working people take in their tuition,
+and how their artistic abilities are developed by it. On Sundays, and
+occasionally in the week, a performance is given, when the working
+classes crowd into the theatre to see their fellows perform. This
+entertainment only costs sixpence for good seats, drama and farce being
+the representations most appreciated. Notwithstanding that smoking is
+prohibited during the performances--a rule which you would think no Dane
+could tolerate, being seldom seen without pipe or cigarette--it is a
+great success, and denotes that their love of the play is greater than
+their pleasure in the weed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+FARM LIFE--BUTTER-MAKING--"HEDESELSKABET"
+
+
+Farming in Denmark is the most important industry of the kingdom, and
+gives employment to half the nation. The peasant is very enlightened and
+advanced in his methods; agricultural and farm products form the
+principal exports of the country. England takes the greater part of this
+produce. Three or four times a week the ships leave Esbjerg--this port
+being the only Danish one not blocked by ice during some part of the
+winter--for the English ports, laden with butter, bacon and eggs for the
+London market. Now, why can the Danish farmer, whose land is poorer and
+his climate more severe than ours, produce so much? Education,
+co-operation and the help given by the State to small farmers lay the
+foundation, so the Danes will tell you, of the farmer's prosperity. The
+thrift and industry of the peasant farmer is quite astonishing. He is
+able to bring up a large, well-educated family and live comfortably on
+seven or eight acres of land; whereas in England we are told that three
+acres will not keep a cow! The Danish farmer makes six acres keep two
+cows, many chickens, some pigs, himself, wife and family, and there is
+never any evidence of poverty on these small farms--quite the reverse.
+The farmer is strong and wiry, his wife fine and buxom, and his children
+sturdy, well-cared-for little urchins. All, however, must work--and work
+very hard--both with head and hands to produce this splendid result. The
+Danish farmer grows a rapid rotation of crops for his animals, manuring
+heavily after each crop, and never allowing his land to lie fallow as we
+do. On these small farms there is practically no grass-land; hedges and
+fences are unnecessary as the animals are always tethered when grazing.
+Omission of hedges is more economical also, making it possible to
+cultivate every inch of land. There is nothing wasted on a Danish farm.
+Many large flourishing farms also exist in Denmark, with acres of both
+meadow and arable land, just as in England; but the peasant farmer is
+the interesting example of the Danish system of legislation. The
+Government helps this small holder by every means in its power to become
+a freehold farmer should he be willing and thrifty enough to try.
+
+The typical Danish farmstead is built in the form of a square, three
+sides of which are occupied by the sheds for the animals, the fourth
+side being the dwelling-house, which is generally connected with the
+sheds by a covered passage--a cosy arrangement for all, as in bad
+weather the farmer need not go outside to attend to the animals, while
+the latter benefit by the warmth from the farmhouse.
+
+The Danes would never speak crossly to a cow or call her by other than
+her own name, which is generally printed on a board over her stall. The
+cow, in fact, is the domestic pet of the Danish farm. In the winter
+these animals are taken for a daily walk wearing their winter coats of
+jute!
+
+These small farmers realize that "Union is Strength," and have built up
+for themselves a marvellous system of co-operation. This brings the
+market literally to the door of the peasant farmer. Carts collect the
+farm produce daily and transport it to the nearest factories belonging
+to this co-operation of farmers. At these factories the milk is turned
+into delicious butter, the eggs are examined by electric light, and "Mr.
+Pig" quickly changes his name to Bacon! These three commodities form the
+most remunerative products of the farm.
+
+The Danish farmer is a strong believer in education, thanks to the
+Grundtvig High-schools. Bishop Grundtvig started these schools for the
+benefit of the sons and daughters of yeomen. When winter comes, and
+outside farm-work is at a standstill, the farmer and his family attend
+these schools to learn new methods of farming and dairy-work. The
+farmer's children are early taught to take a hand and interest
+themselves in the farm-work. The son, when school is over for the day,
+must help to feed the live-stock, do a bit of spade-work or
+carpentering, and perhaps a little book-keeping before bedtime. These
+practical lessons develop in the lad a love of farm-work and a pride
+in helping on the family resources.
+
+[Illustration: VAGT-PARADEN. LIFEGUARDS DRAWING UP OUTSIDE THE PALACE.]
+
+Butter-making is an interesting sight at the splendidly equipped
+steam-factories, and we all know that Danish butter is renowned for its
+excellence. When the milk is weighed and tested it runs into a large
+receiver, thence to the separator; from there the cream flows into the
+scalder, and pours over the ice frame in a rich cool stream into a
+wooden vat.
+
+Meanwhile the separated milk has returned through a pipe to the waiting
+milk-cans and is given back to the farmer, who utilizes it to feed his
+calves and pigs. The cream leaves the vat for the churn through a wooden
+channel, and when full the churn is set in motion. This combined churn
+and butter-worker completes the process of butter-making, and when the
+golden mass is taken out it is ready to be packed for the English
+market. The milk, on being received at the factory, is weighed and paid
+for according to weight. It takes 25 lbs. of milk to make 1 lb. of
+butter.
+
+"Hedeselskabet" (Heath Company) is a wonderful society started by
+Captain Dalgas and other patriotic Danes, in 1866, for the purpose of
+reclaiming the moors and bogs. The cultivation of these lands seemed
+impossible to most people, but these few enthusiasts with great energy
+and perseverance set to work to overcome Nature's obstacles. These
+pioneers have been so successful in their efforts that in less than half
+a century three thousand square miles of useless land in Jutland have
+been made fertile. Trees have been planted and carefully nursed into
+good plantations, besides many other improvements made for the benefit
+of the agriculturalist and the country generally. All along the sandy
+wastes of the west coast of Jutland esparto grass has been sown to bind
+the shifting sand, which is a danger to the crops when the terrible
+"Skaj"[8] blows across the land with unbroken force. Thanks to the
+untiring energies of this society for reclaiming the moors, Denmark has
+gained land almost equal to that she lost in her beautiful province of
+Schleswig, annexed by Prussia in the unequal war of 1864.
+
+In the town of Aarhus, the capital of Jutland, a handsome monument has
+been raised to the memory of Captain Dalgas, the father of the movement
+for reclaiming the moors, by his grateful countrymen.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+SOLDIERS AND SAILORS
+
+
+Every Danish boy knows he must undergo a period of training as a soldier
+or sailor when he reaches his twentieth year. This is because Denmark is
+small and poor, and could not maintain a standing army, so her citizens
+must be able to defend her when called upon. This service is required
+from all, noble and peasant alike, physical weakness alone bringing
+exemption. This six or twelve months' training means a hard rough time
+for young men accustomed to a refined home, but it has a pleasant side
+in the sympathy and friendship of comrades. The generality of conscripts
+do not love their soldiering days, and look upon them as something to be
+got over, like the measles! "Jens" is the Danish equivalent for "Tommy
+Atkins," and "Hans" is the "Jack Tar" of Denmark.
+
+To see the daily parade of Life Guards before the royal palace is to see
+a splendid military display. This parade the King and young Princes
+often watch from the palace windows. The crowd gathers to enjoy the
+spectacle of "Vagt-Paraden" (changing the guard) in the palace square,
+when the standard is taken from the Guard House and borne, to the
+stirring strains of the "Fane-Marsch," in front of the palace. As the
+standard-bearer marches he throws forward his legs from the hips in the
+most curious stiff way. This old elaborate German step is a striking
+feature of the daily parade. When the guard is changed and the band has
+played a selection of music, the same ceremony is repeated, and the
+standard deposited again in its resting-place. Then the released guard,
+headed by the band playing merry tunes, march back to their barracks
+followed by an enthusiastic crowd. The fresh guard take their place
+beside the sentry-boxes, which stand around the palace square. These are
+tall red pillar-boxes curiously like giant letter-boxes!
+
+In the Schleswig-Holstein War of 1864, the last war Denmark was engaged
+in, many Danish soldiers proved their valour and heroism in the unequal
+encounter. These gallant men were buried in Schleswig, and as the Danish
+colours were forbidden by the tyrannical Prussian conquerors, the loyal
+Schleswigers hit upon a pretty way of keeping the memory of their heroes
+green. The "Danebrog" was designed by a cross of white flowers on a
+ground of red geraniums over each grave. In this way the kinsmen of
+these patriots covered their last resting-place with the colours of
+their glorious national flag, under which they fell in Denmark's
+defence. In Holmens Kirke, Copenhagen, many heroes lie buried. This
+building, originally an iron foundry, was converted into a church by
+the royal builder, Christian IV., for the dockyard men to worship in,
+and it is still used by them. This King's motto, "Piety strengthens the
+realm," stands boldly over the entrance of this mortuary chapel for
+famous Danes.
+
+As Denmark is a kingdom composed mainly of islands and peninsula, she
+has a long line of sea-board to defend, and a good navy is essential for
+her safety. The Danes being descendants of Vikings and sea-rovers, you
+may be sure that their navy is well maintained.
+
+A boy who chooses the navy as his profession must leave school at the
+age of fourteen years, and go for nine months' training on a warship as
+a voluntary apprentice. At the end of this time he knows whether he
+likes the profession well enough to join it--if so, two years' coaching
+is given to enable him to pass the necessary examinations for entering
+the Naval Academy. Here he is trained for four years, spending the four
+summer months of each year in cruising. This Naval Academy, where
+officers are trained, is a fine old institution, and prides itself on
+the record of the famous men it has turned out. The present King of
+Greece, and many other members of the Danish Royal Family, have also
+been trained at this Academy. The Academy course is expensive, and as
+promotion is slow, and pay small in the navy, the Lieutenants are
+sometimes permitted to captain a ship in the merchant service for three
+years. This they are glad to do, as it increases their pay and
+knowledge of navigation. Denmark being too small to maintain a large
+cruising fleet, these officers would have little opportunity of proving
+their sailing powers without this arrangement.
+
+When cruising, the high spirits of the young cadets sometimes lead them
+into mischief, thereby bringing trouble upon their heads. I knew a naval
+captain who hit upon a very original and effective form of punishment
+for wrong-doers. The cadet cap is a blue "tam-o'-shanter" with the usual
+woolly bob of the same colour on the top. "The naughty boys shall have a
+red bob," said the "Kaptejn," "and thus be branded for misdemeanour!"
+The culprits disliked this badge intensely, I imagine mostly because
+their comrades derisively admired the colour which made them
+conspicuous. One day royalties were being shown over the ship, and a
+young Princess asked "why some of the boys had those pretty red tufts on
+their caps?" You may imagine the chagrin and confusion of the culprits;
+scarlet faces and crimson tufts told their own tale! The boys, you may
+be sure, thought twice in future before risking another penitential week
+of branding and ridicule for breach of discipline.
+
+In Copenhagen one of the discarded warships is used as public restaurant
+and training-school for ships' cooks. Here the sailor-men are taught
+every branch of cooking and kitchen-work. When trained, these cooks are
+employed on the merchant-ships, as well as on the men-of-war.
+
+Some interesting stories are told of the naval heroes of Denmark which
+you will like to hear. Peder Tordenskjold is the Nelson of Denmark. This
+man, besides being a great Admiral, was a most genial character, and had
+a striking and original personality. Many true tales are told about this
+hero which the young Danish lads never tire of hearing. There is a
+favourite one which tells of the ingenious way by which he discovered
+the weak points in his enemy's stronghold. Dressing himself as a
+fisherman, he accompanied two other fishers in a little rowing-boat
+laden with fish to the enemy's shores. Taking a basket of fish, he
+mounted the hill to the fort, saying he had brought the fish for the
+commandant. He was allowed to pass in to the fort with his fish, and,
+pretending stupidity, kept losing his way--gaining knowledge
+thereby--till he reached the commandant's residence. Gaining permission
+from the latter to supply the garrison with fish, he inquired for how
+many men he should provide. "Let me see," said the commandant, half to
+himself, "a hundred guns--two hundred men; you may bring fish for a
+hundred men." Tordenskjold then left the fort, having obtained all the
+information he required, and returned to his boat. At this moment the
+captain of one of the ships lying in the bay arrived on shore, and the
+pretended fisherman at once accosted him, asking permission to serve his
+men with fish. This being granted, he at once rowed to the ship, where
+he soon disposed of his fish, and conversing with the sailors, he
+gained the information that in two days' time there would be a great
+festivity held on shore, at which most of them would be present. With
+this valuable knowledge he returned to his own shore from the Swedish
+coast, and laid plans which gave Denmark a victory and proved fatal to
+the Swedes. In Holmens Kirke, where this hero lies buried, a splendid
+black marble tomb has been erected to his memory by King Frederik IV.
+Near by lies another naval hero, Niels Juel, whose gilt and copper
+coffin is surmounted by a tablet which tells of his brave deeds.
+
+Captain Hvitfeldt, the hero of Kjoege Bay, blew up his ship with three
+hundred men to save the Danish fleet from destruction. In the war of
+1710, between Denmark and Sweden, this captain's ship, the _Danebrog_,
+took fire. To save the ships which were being driven by the wind towards
+his burning vessel, he and his gallant crew sacrificed their lives.
+
+Herluf Trolle was a Danish noble and a famous Admiral, who left all his
+wealth to found a school for orphans. His noble wife, Fru Bergitta, was
+greatly distressed that the Admiral's will could not be found, as she
+was most anxious that his wishes, which were also her own, with regard
+to the school, should be carried into effect. The Admiral's relatives
+would inherit the property, and were already clamouring for it, when one
+night Fru Bergitta had a dream. She dreamed she saw someone walking
+round her husband's writing-table, attentively inspecting the legs.
+These she examined on awakening, and found one to be hollow.
+Discovering a secret spring, she pressed it, and beheld the will lying
+in the hollow space. So Herluf Trolle's school was founded, and although
+this brave old Admiral died from wounds received in battle centuries
+ago, yet his school is considered to be one of the best at the present
+day.
+
+[Illustration: SUNDAY IN THE ISLAND OF LAESOe.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+THE PEOPLE OF THE ISLES
+
+
+One of the most storm-swept and barren of Denmark's many islands is the
+island of Fanoe. Lying, as it does, exposed to the full force of the
+North Sea gales, it yet serves to protect the harbour of Esbjerg from
+these storms. It is eight miles long, and three miles at its broadest
+part. A trim little steamer will carry you across from Esbjerg to
+Nordby--the fishing town on the east coast of Fanoe--in twenty minutes.
+Nordby is both quaint and picturesque. The low thatched houses, with
+rough-cast, whitewashed walls, nestle close to each other for shelter
+from the winds.
+
+The Fanoe women have a practical but peculiar costume; the
+thickly-pleated skirt has a bright-coloured border, while the
+close-fitting bodice is adorned with embroidery, and pretty antique
+buttons. A folded cotton kerchief and accordion-pleated apron give a
+daintiness to the whole dress. The head-dress, however, gives the most
+singular finish to the costume. A dark, checked-bordered handkerchief
+tied over a stiff, cambric frame, entirely envelops the head. The four
+ends of this handkerchief are tied in an odd way, two being left
+upstanding like rabbits' ears! This striking head-dress gives the Fanoe
+wife a fantastic appearance. When the good-natured, smiling faces of
+these women are hidden behind a mask, the combination of dress and mask
+makes them awesome-looking folk. The men of the island are nearly all
+fishermen; the women are the farmers, and it is to protect their faces
+from the blinding sand-storms, while working on the land, that these
+masks are worn. This mask obliterates all comeliness, for only the eyes
+peep out from the weird face-protector.
+
+This island of heath, dune, and quicksand is wild and romantic. The
+cultivated fields are protected by sand-hills, and belts of stunted,
+wind-swept trees that afford some slight protection to the crops. The
+island belongs to the people, who cultivate it assiduously. The courage
+and perseverance of these women agriculturalists is rewarded by fair
+crops, notwithstanding an adverse climate.
+
+At the south end of the island, far away from any dwelling, is the
+interesting "Fuglekoejerne,"[9] where three or four hundred wild-duck are
+taken in a day during the season. Decoy-ducks are used for this purpose.
+
+The west side of the island is the most fashionable watering-place in
+Denmark. Large hotels and pretty villas line the shore, and here the
+well-to-do Danes inhale bracing sea-breezes.
+
+On a windy day this western shore is not amusing. Clouds of blinding
+sand whirl high in the air, while the booming surf rolls and plunges on
+the beach with deafening roar, and makes rank and fashion fly to shelter
+in hotel or villa till the storm is over. Visitors in summer and storms
+in winter have it all their own way on this west coast--the people of
+Fanoe trouble it not.
+
+Bornholm, situated in the middle of the Baltic, is both beautiful and
+fertile. Its products are very valuable to Denmark. From here comes the
+clay of which the exquisite Copenhagen porcelain is made. Here, too, the
+granite for building the country's defences and docks is quarried. I
+fancy if you were to ask a young Dane what Bornholm is most famed for he
+would say, "Turkeys," for the island supplies the Copenhagen market with
+these birds.
+
+The chief town, Roenne, is charming, with its many low-roofed houses,
+which overlook the Baltic. It is noted for its terra-cotta ware, clocks,
+and Museum of Antiquities.
+
+Most of the towns are upon the coast. Four singular round churches,
+built of granite, were formerly used as places of refuge for the people
+when beset by pirates. These "Rundkirker" are peculiar to Bornholm.
+
+A high festival is celebrated every year on the anniversary of the day
+when the inhabitants succeeded in throwing off the Swedish yoke, which
+they had borne for a short time in the seventeenth century with
+resentment.
+
+Hammershus Castle, on the northern extremity of Bornholm, was built in
+the thirteenth century. There is a sad tale connected with this romantic
+castle, about a Danish noble and his wife. This noble, Corfitz Ulfeldt,
+was imprisoned there for treason. His beautiful wife, Eleonora, the
+favourite daughter of Christian IV., accompanied him, preferring
+imprisonment with him to liberty without him. After the Count died,
+Eleonora, who had a mortal enemy in Queen Caroline Amalia, was sent by
+the latter to the "Blaataarn"[10] of Slotsholmen, Copenhagen, and there
+incarcerated for twenty-two years. The illustrious Eleonora was only
+liberated on the death of the vindictive Queen, but the long years of
+captivity--without reason--had wrecked her life.
+
+Laesoe is a small island in the Cattegat, the inhabitants of which are
+mainly farmers and fishermen, and the old women wear a particular
+costume for Sunday, which is called the "church costume."
+
+The people of Amager are great market-gardeners. They are of Dutch
+extraction. Christian II., after flying from his country, took refuge in
+Holland, and some of the Dutch helped him in trying to regain his
+throne. For this service he gave his Dutch followers the island of
+Amager. The descendants of these Dutch people still retain their old
+customs and characteristics. Clattering about in wooden shoes, the old
+women, in quaint costume, may be seen driving their geese down the
+picturesque streets to the meadows. Besides being market-gardeners and
+florists, these Amager folk rear and fatten the geese for the Christmas
+market.
+
+The natural beauty of the island of Moeen is striking, and unlike the
+rest of Denmark. "Moeen's Klint" are great, jagged white cliffs rising
+abruptly from the sea. Enchanting beech-woods thickly crown the summit,
+giving distinctive and unusual beauty to it. From Sommerspiret, the
+highest point, we have an extensive view over the Ostersoeen and Koejge
+Bay, where the famous victory over the Swedes was won by Niels Juel in
+1677.
+
+In Denmark the town-crier beats a drum to draw attention to the notice
+he is about to give.
+
+Danish postmen present a gorgeous appearance, in red coats, with smart
+cloaks of the same brilliant hue for winter wear. These and the bright
+yellow mail-vans, which they drive sometimes, arrest attention, and give
+importance to the carriers of His Majesty's mails.
+
+In many of the houses the "Forhoejning" is still used. This is a raised
+platform close to the window, on which the lady of the house sits to do
+her embroidery. While she is here she can follow all that goes on in the
+street below by an ingenious arrangement of oblique convex mirrors fixed
+to the outside of the window, and reflecting the life in the streets
+both ways.
+
+The numerous pretty articles made of amber, which adorn the ladies'
+dressing-tables, and of which beads and ornaments for the girls are
+composed, are of local manufacture, amber being found in quantities on
+the west coast of Jutland.
+
+In the islands of Funen and Seeland there are many grand old
+manor-houses belonging to the nobility, whose fine estates give
+employment to many peasants. A story is told of a certain noble,
+Christian Barnekow by name, who saved his King, Christian IV., by his
+heroic self-sacrifice. The King had lost his horse, and was on the point
+of being killed or made prisoner when Barnekow came to his rescue.
+Giving the King his own horse, he said, "I give my horse to my King, my
+life to the enemy, and my soul to God." A street in Copenhagen is called
+after this brave nobleman "Kristenbernikovstrade."
+
+It is characteristic of the Danes to run words into each other, and
+streets in Denmark often have prodigiously long names.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+FISHERMEN AT HOME AND AFLOAT
+
+
+The class of people most lauded by their own and other nations is that
+of the brave and hardy fishermen of Denmark. These men are always
+willing to man the life-boat and to risk their lives to save those in
+peril on the dangerous coast of Jutland. Although hundreds of ships are
+wrecked on this dreaded "Jernkyst" (iron coast), their crews are
+invariably saved by these courageous men. The whole length of the west
+coast of Jutland is bleak and exposed to the storms and fogs of the
+North Sea. Not one single harbour of refuge can be found between Esbjerg
+and the Skaw. Dangerous sandbanks and massive cliffs guard the coast,
+making navigation both difficult and hazardous. All along this perilous
+coast life-saving apparatus of the newest and best type is stored in the
+life-boat houses placed at intervals close to the seashore. On stormy
+nights the watching sentinels summon by telephone the fishermen of the
+tiny hamlets near. At sound of a rocket the distressful cry, "A wreck, a
+wreck!" runs over the telephone, and immediately brave hearts and hands
+are putting off to the rescue, while trembling women anxiously wait
+their husbands' return with warm restoratives for the saved. These
+fishermen's wives are brave too, for it is anxious work waiting and
+watching. It is not to be wondered at that this merciless and cruel
+coast is dreaded by all seamen. How thankful they must feel when they
+see the great lighthouse at Grenen--the northernmost point of
+Jutland--and can signal "All's well!" "Alt vel! passeret Grenen" flash
+the lights across the water, and both passengers and crew breathe a
+little more freely if it has been a stormy passage. Something like
+eighty thousand vessels pass by this coast in a year, so you may be sure
+the gallant fishermen of Denmark who live on the iron coast have plenty
+of rescue work to do.
+
+[Illustration: SKAGEN FISHERMAN NEAR THE TOWER OF BURIED CHURCH.]
+
+You should see this coast on a stormy day, more especially at Grenen,
+where those two mighty seas, the Skagerack and Cattegat, meet. When the
+tempest rages here, far as eye can see a long ridge of seething, tossing
+water denotes the meeting-place of the currents. The great "white
+horses" in battle array fight, plunge, and roar--each striving for the
+mastery which neither gains. This wrestling-match is a splendid
+spectacle to those who are safe on shore, also to those at sea if the
+day is clear, because they can then give the reef a wide berth. Tossing
+spray is thrown high into the air and wind-borne to the shore, so even
+at a distance from the waves you may have a salt shower-bath should you
+be able to "keep your legs" against the fury of the gale. The screaming
+gulls which fly around, dipping and rising, enjoying as only
+"storm-birds" can the roar and tumult of these tempestuous waters,
+enhance the fierce loneliness of the scene. This awe-inspiring
+"Nature-barrier" saddens you--even while you exult in the madness of its
+fury--when you think what it means on a foggy night to the poor mariner.
+What a comfort for the seafarer to know that there is such a famous race
+of fishermen here, willing and ready to man the life-boat and rescue
+them from the angry, engulfing waters! You would never guess these seas
+could be otherwise than kind when you enter their smiling depths for a
+swim on a calm, sunny day. How gentle and invigorating they can be the
+fishermen as well as the visitors know, and any morning you may see the
+former returning from their daily dip with dripping heads and towels
+along the shore. Somehow these fishermen are always picturesque. In the
+summer evening, sitting or lying on the sunlit beach, smoking their
+cutty-pipes and waiting for the time to launch their boats for the
+fishing, they make an impressive picture. Kindly blue eyes and
+weather-beaten faces look at you from under the sou'westers, while blue
+jerseys, long sea-boots with curled-over tops and oil-skins, complete
+the sea-going outfit. Fully equipped, they charm the eye of the most
+fastidious, and it is little wonder that they have become subjects for
+famous artists and poets.
+
+These fishermen are very devout, and before launching their boat they
+all stand round it with clasped hands and bowed heads, offering up a
+short, silent prayer for help and protection on these dangerous waters.
+Then, pushing the boat out into the water, they jump in while it
+floats--sea-boots getting wet in the process--and wave farewell to their
+children on the shore, who cry in return "Farvel Fa'er!"
+
+Lars Kruse, the late captain of the life-boat at Skagen, has had a
+beautiful monument raised to his memory, and his son will show you with
+great pride the cups and medals he left behind as mementoes of his brave
+deeds. These medals have been presented by many different nations whose
+sea-farers have been saved by him. Amongst these is one given by Queen
+Victoria.
+
+Captain Larsen, a well-known mariner, who, on retiring from his post on
+one of the light-ships, settled at Old Skagen, has left a unique
+collection to the village. This now constitutes a museum of exquisitely
+carved furniture, much of it inlaid with ivory, marbles and metals in
+dainty designs, all made by this old sailor during the last twelve years
+of his life--a wonderful record of industry. Old Skagen is a quaint
+fisher-village, nestling behind the sand-dunes, trying to shelter itself
+from the sand and sea-storms to which these shores are subjected.
+
+Many of these fisher-folk are farmers also, tilling and cultivating the
+heath-lands which lie beyond the village. The fisher cottages are quite
+pretty, with thatched or red-tiled roofs, white or buff rough-cast
+walls, green painted doors and windows, with black painted foundations
+which protect them from the sand. Bright flowering plants in the windows
+and the neat and clean appearance of the whole betoken the joy and
+comfort that reigns in the fisherman's home. Many household duties are
+performed at the cottage door in the sandy enclosure surrounding the
+little homestead. Here the old men mend the nets, keeping a watchful eye
+on the babies, while the women clean and salt the fish, hanging them up
+in rows to dry in the sun. In these garden enclosures, also, many
+quaintly pretty miniature houses may be seen erected on tall poles.
+These are to encourage the starlings and other songsters to settle in
+them, as there are no trees. Hen-roosts and outhouses are adorned with
+the name-boards of wrecked boats washed up on the shore, while discarded
+boats turned over and tarred make the roofs of these curious shelters
+worthy of royal hens!
+
+The older fishermen have a safe and effective way of trawling from the
+strand. Putting out in a small boat, taking their net with them, to
+which a long rope is attached--the end of this being left in charge of
+the fishermen on the shore--they row gaily over the water, paying out
+the rope as they go. When the limit of this rope is reached, the men
+drop their weighted net overboard and pull for the shore, bringing with
+them another attached rope which is paid out till they reach the strand.
+When they have landed and the boat is beached, half a dozen men or more
+take hold of each rope--these are fastened to each side of the
+submerged net--and begin hauling it to the shore. The straining muscles
+of the men as they march up the beach with a strong, steady, overhand
+pull on the rope denotes that this is heavy work. It is a grand sight!
+As the net nears the shore the gleaming, glittering mass of fish can be
+seen leaping and jumping in vain endeavour to escape from their prison,
+only the smaller fry succeeding. At last the net with its silver load
+reaches the shore with the noise as of a great wave breaking upon the
+beach, which is caused by the efforts of the fish to gain their freedom.
+The best fish are picked out and the others returned to the sea, while
+the gulls swoop down with querulous cry and gobble all that float on the
+surface of the water. These fishermen have a prejudice against skate,
+and use it only for bait.
+
+St. Clement is the patron saint of Danish fishermen, and many of the
+churches in the coast towns are dedicated to him.
+
+As the Cathedral of Aarhus is dedicated to St. Clement, the Skaw
+fishermen have given an exquisite model of a ship to the church. This
+ship is a perfect representation in miniature of a man-of-war. It was
+made in Holland for Peter the Great, but the ship which carried it was
+wrecked near Grenen, and the model was saved by the Skaw fishermen.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+YOUTHFUL DANES AT WORK AND PLAY
+
+
+Denmark is renowned for its educational system and for its schools.
+These schools are all under Government control, and meet the wants of
+every class. The authorities are upheld by the parents, both being
+determined there shall be no such thing as an ignoramus in Denmark, so
+whether the children are educated at home or sent to school, they must
+begin lessons at the age of seven. If they have a governess at home the
+parents must give a guarantee to the authorities that the governess is
+efficient and capable of giving the standard education to the children.
+Should parents elect to take their children abroad during the school
+term, they must notify their intention, undertaking that a teacher shall
+accompany them and lessons continue while away. Shirking lessons is
+quite an impossibility for little Danes, as everybody thinks that
+education comes before all else, so parents do not encourage idleness or
+extra holidays during the school year.
+
+School attendance is compulsory for all children between the ages of
+seven and fourteen. The hours are not long nor wearisome, as the lessons
+are arranged with a view to holding the attention of young minds during
+the period of instruction. The classes are small, even in the free
+schools, never more than thirty-five pupils to a teacher, and generally
+less. The lesson lasts forty minutes, and then there is an interval for
+play. The thorough education of the pupils for their future work in life
+is considered, so lessons in writing, reading, and arithmetic, in the
+Kommune schools, are varied by tailoring lessons for boys, and cookery
+for girls, after they are ten years of age. At every school gymnastics
+play an important part--pleasant lessons these are for all--but perhaps
+the lesson the boys most delight in is their instruction in Sloeyd. Each
+lad has his carpenter's bench with necessary tools, and as we know every
+boy is happy when making or marring with hammer and nails, I am sure you
+will think these must be enviable lessons. I have seen some charming
+models as well as useful things made by the boys--a perfect miniature
+landau, complete in every detail, benches, bureaux, carts, tables,
+chairs, besides many other serviceable articles. Besides this
+pleasure-work at school, the boys, if they are farmers' sons, have
+practical lessons at home by helping their father on the farm. The
+authorities being anxious to help the farmer, they allow him to keep a
+boy at home half the day for instruction in farm-work, but the other
+half must be spent at school. The prizes at the municipal schools not
+infrequently consist of clothes, watches, clocks, or tools, all of which
+are worked for eagerly by the pupils.
+
+The boys and girls of Denmark begin early with gymnastic exercises, and
+soon become sturdy little athletes from sheer love of the exhilarating
+practice. All Danes pride themselves--and with good reason--on their
+national athletic exercises. At the Olympic Games, held at the Stadium
+in London, the Danish ladies carried away the gold medal by their fine
+gymnastic display. This was a triumph with so many competitors in the
+field. It is an amusing sight to see the Danes at a seaside resort
+taking their morning swim; each one on leaving the water runs about on
+the sun-warmed beach, and goes through a gymnastic display on his own
+account, choosing the exercise he considers most calculated to warm and
+invigorate him after his dip. The children require no second bidding to
+follow father's example, and as they emerge from the water breathless,
+pantingly join in the fun. Sons try to go one better than the father in
+some gymnastic feat which the latter's stoutness renders impossible! The
+merry peals of laughter which accompany the display speak eloquently of
+the thorough enjoyment of all the bathers.
+
+Yachting in Denmark is not merely a pleasure for the rich, it is
+inexpensive, so all classes and every man capable of sailing a boat can
+enjoy it. In the summer-time the Sound and other waters seem alive with
+the multitudes of white sails and speeding craft of all sizes. The
+Oresund Week, as the Royal Yacht Club's regatta-week is called, is the
+time of all others for yachtsmen to display their skill, and a gay
+event in the Copenhagener's year. The pleasant waters of Denmark are
+beloved of yachtsmen. Sailing round the wooded islands, you are
+impressed by their picturesque beauty, which is seen to advantage from
+the water. One is not surprised that this popular pastime comes first
+with every Danish boy, who, whether swimming, rowing, or sailing, feels
+perfectly at home on the water. Everybody cycles in Denmark.
+Cycle-stands are provided outside every shop, station, office, and
+college, so that you have no more difficulty in disposing of your cycle
+than your umbrella.
+
+[Illustration: WINTER IN THE FOREST.]
+
+Football is a summer game here--spirited matches you would think
+impossible at this season--but the Danes have them, and what is more,
+they will inform you that they quite enjoy what appears to the spectator
+a hot, fatiguing amusement. Cricket has few attractions for the Danish
+lads, but that is because they cannot play, though their schoolmasters
+and parents would have them try. All things English are much admired,
+and when a Dane intends to do a thing he generally succeeds, so we can
+only suppose he is too indifferent about cricket--although it is an
+English game--to excel.
+
+Golf and hockey are also played, and "bandy"--_i.e._, hockey on the
+ice--is a favourite winter sport. A "bandy" match is quite exciting to
+watch. The players, armed with a wooden club, often find the ice a
+difficulty when rushing after the solid rubber ball. This exhilarating
+game is known in some parts of the world as "shinty." The Danes are
+proficient skaters, and of late years an artificial ground for winter
+sport of all kinds has been made in the Ulvedal, near Copenhagen. Here
+they have "bandy" matches, ski-ing, and tobogganing, as well as other
+winter games. Fox-hunting is unknown in Denmark, but frequently foxes
+are included in the sportsman's bag when shooting. These are shot
+because it is necessary to keep Mr. Reynard's depredations under
+control. Trotting-matches are held on Sunday on the racecourse near
+Charlottenlund, and horse-racing takes place too. Lawn-tennis and
+croquet are very popular, but the latter is the favourite pastime of the
+Danish ladies.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+INGEBORG'S JOURNEY THROUGH SEELAND
+
+
+Funen, the island which lies between the Great and Little Belts, is
+known as the "Garden of Denmark," on account of its beauty and
+fertility. In Odense, the capital, Ingeborg had lived happily all the
+fifteen summers of her life. Now she was to have an unexpected treat.
+Her grandfather intended taking her with him on the morrow to see some
+of the historical places in Seeland. Ingeborg loved history, and had
+given her grandfather much pleasure by the knowledge she displayed when
+showing him over her own church, St. Knud's. This ancient Gothic Church
+is the finest specimen of mediaeval architecture in Denmark. St. Knud,
+the grand-nephew of Canute the Great, was slain before the altar while
+praying for his people. This brave King could have saved himself by
+flight, but would not, lest his subjects should suffer at the hands of
+his enemies. He was canonized by the Pope, and his brother built the
+church to his memory. Besides being the shrine of St. Knud, this church
+is the burial-place of King Christian II. and his Queen, as well as of
+King Hans and his Consort. The beautiful altar-piece, given by Queen
+Christina, is of the most exquisite workmanship, and took the artists
+many years to execute.
+
+Ingeborg's excitement was great when she crossed from Nyborg. She
+remembered that an army once crossed this water on foot, so severe was
+the winter, and that ice-breakers are still used occasionally. The girl
+wished it was winter as she watched for the first time the huge
+paddle-wheels of the steam-ferry ploughing through the waters of the
+Great Belt. By the time Korsoer was reached, Herr Nielsen, her
+grandfather, had made acquaintance with a student who was returning to
+his college at Soroe, the town which they intended making their first
+stopping-place. The student, whose name was Hans, informed them that he
+lived at Ribe, a quaint old town of South Jutland, left very much to
+memories and the storks, but possessing a fine twelfth-century
+Cathedral. The college at Soroe was founded by Ludvig Holberg, the father
+of Danish comedy, who left his fortune and library for that purpose.
+Hans was proud of belonging to this college, as it had educated many men
+of letters famous in Danish history.
+
+In the Cistercian Church of Soroe, Bishop Absalon, the founder of
+Copenhagen, lies buried. It is said that this Bishop's spirit appears,
+with menacing attitude, if anyone desecrates the place by irreverence.
+Ludvig Holberg is also buried in this cloister church, as well as three
+Danish Kings.
+
+Ingemann the poet spent most of his time at this charming town, which
+stands on the lake of the Soroe Soe. In the luxuriant beech-woods which
+surround the lake, Saxo Grammaticus, the first historian of Denmark, was
+wont to wander. Both these celebrated men also lie in the old church,
+which Ingeborg felt was a fitting resting-place for the noble dead.
+
+On the advice of Hans, Herr Nielsen took his young grand-daughter to see
+the old convent church of Ringsted. Here many Danish Kings were buried
+in the twelfth, thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. The interesting
+Romanesque Church of Kallundborg was also visited. This Church, with its
+four octagonal towers and a square tower in the middle, forms a Greek
+cross. This is the most unique specimen of mediaeval architecture in the
+North.
+
+Ingeborg had long looked forward to seeing Roskilde Cathedral, and the
+day was bright and sunny when they arrived at the sleepy little town on
+the Roskilde Fjord. This stately Cathedral, with its two tall pointed
+spires, is called the "Westminster Abbey" of Denmark. It is the
+burial-place of the Danish Royal Family: thirty-three Kings and many
+Queens rest in it. A beautiful alabaster tomb marks the resting-place of
+Queen Margrethe, the famous Queen who united the three Crowns--Norway,
+Sweden, and Denmark--and was ever ambitious for the glory and
+development of these countries. She ruled with wisdom and wonderful
+diplomacy, and was the most powerful Queen Denmark ever had. She has
+been called the "Semiramis of the North." Though the three crowns are
+still on the shield of Denmark, the other two kingdoms were lost to her
+in the sixteenth century. Queen Margrethe was the daughter of Valdemar
+IV., known as "Atterdag," because of his favourite proverb: "I Morgen er
+der atter en Dag."[11] This powerful monarch kept his subjects in such
+incessant turmoil by his numerous wars for acquiring territory "that
+they had not time to eat"! The Renaissance chapel erected by Christian
+IV., in which his tomb stands, is very beautiful. This popular monarch,
+alike celebrated as architect, sailor, and warrior, was one of the most
+impressive figures in Danish history. The mural paintings of the chapel
+represent scenes in the life of this great King.
+
+Ingeborg was glad she remembered her history, and could tell her
+grandfather so much as they went through the Cathedral. He, however,
+informed her that Frederik VII. was the last of the Kings of the
+Oldenburg line, which had been on the throne of Denmark for over four
+hundred years.
+
+The sarcophagus of the beloved Christian IX., father of many European
+crowned heads, including Queen Alexandra of England, is still kept
+covered with fresh flowers. This King, whose memory is so revered in all
+countries, inaugurated a new dynasty in Denmark. The curious old clock
+at the western end of the cathedral interested Ingeborg, and she watched
+with delight, when it struck the hour of noon, St. George, mounted on
+his fiery steed, with many groans and stiff, jerky movements, kill the
+dragon, which expired with a gruesome death-rattle!
+
+In the thirteenth century this quiet town of Roskilde was the capital,
+and the archiepiscopal see of Denmark. An English Bishop, William of
+Roskilde, is supposed to have built the Cathedral.
+
+We will now follow our little friend and her grandfather to
+Frederiksborg Castle. The castle, with its many towers and pinnacles
+reflected in still waters, stands in the middle of a lake. This handsome
+Dutch Renaissance building is now used as an historical museum. Many of
+the Danish Kings have been crowned in its magnificent chapel. Wandering
+through the splendid rooms of the castle, Ingeborg could read the
+history of her country in a very pleasant and interesting manner. The
+collection being confined to one period for each room made instruction
+an easy affair for the grandfather. Beginning with King Gorm the Old and
+Canute the Great, it comprises all periods up to the last century.
+
+The autumn residence of the Royal Family, Fredensborg Castle, was the
+next place of interest visited. This Castle of Peace was built to
+commemorate the end of the war between Denmark and Sweden. "Fred" means
+"peace" in Danish, and, indeed, this place proves a home of peace to
+tired Royalty. Its park is considered the most beautiful in Denmark. The
+magnificent avenues of lime-trees are lined by marble statues of
+peasants in national costumes, Faroese, Icelandic and Norwegian, as well
+as those of Denmark.
+
+The Open-Air Museum at Lyngby, with its ancient farm and peasant
+buildings, the interiors of which are fitted up just as they used to be,
+gave Ingeborg a peep into the past and old-time Denmark. Here she saw a
+curious rolling-pin hanging in the ingle-nook of the farmhouse from the
+village of Ostenfeld. This wooden pin, so her grandfather told her, was
+a Clogg Almanac or Runic Calendar. It had four sides, each marking three
+months, large notches denoting Sundays, small ones showing week-days.
+Saints' days were marked by the symbol of each saint. He had seen some
+of these old calendars in the Ashmolean Museum at Oxford, when he had
+been in England, which were relics of Danish government there. These
+quaint and curious Clogg Almanacs were used throughout Scandinavia,
+small ones made of horn or bone being for the pocket.
+
+But here we must say good-bye to Ingeborg and her grandfather, as after
+seeing Kronborg Castle and Elsinore they will return by the beautiful
+coast-line to Copenhagen, there to enjoy many of the sights we have seen
+in "dear little Denmark."
+
+
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote 1: Thank you for the food.]
+
+[Footnote 2: May it agree with you.]
+
+[Footnote 3: Spoon-food.]
+
+[Footnote 4: Luncheon.]
+
+[Footnote 5: Be so good.]
+
+[Footnote 6: Birthday child.]
+
+[Footnote 7: Impenetrable swamp.]
+
+[Footnote 8: The sharp, dry, north-west wind which blows in the spring.]
+
+[Footnote 9: Retreat of wild-duck.]
+
+[Footnote 10: Blue Tower.]
+
+[Footnote 11: To-morrow comes another day.]
+
+
+
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