diff options
| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 01:19:17 -0700 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 01:19:17 -0700 |
| commit | 4de21fdb5b7e6e01f8339707f147cdc858263d6f (patch) | |
| tree | e793496f4635a0f9f705f168d08956c5b7a624d9 | |
| -rw-r--r-- | .gitattributes | 3 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 20107-8.txt | 2579 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 20107-8.zip | bin | 0 -> 55878 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 20107-h.zip | bin | 0 -> 1103440 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 20107-h/20107-h.htm | 3232 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 20107-h/images/illus001-tb.jpg | bin | 0 -> 25194 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 20107-h/images/illus001.jpg | bin | 0 -> 119852 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 20107-h/images/illus002-tb.jpg | bin | 0 -> 24503 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 20107-h/images/illus002.jpg | bin | 0 -> 121592 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 20107-h/images/illus003-tb.jpg | bin | 0 -> 27403 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 20107-h/images/illus003.jpg | bin | 0 -> 117711 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 20107-h/images/illus004-tb.jpg | bin | 0 -> 13756 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 20107-h/images/illus004.jpg | bin | 0 -> 64572 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 20107-h/images/illus005-tb.jpg | bin | 0 -> 20781 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 20107-h/images/illus005.jpg | bin | 0 -> 102384 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 20107-h/images/illus006-tb.jpg | bin | 0 -> 20804 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 20107-h/images/illus006.jpg | bin | 0 -> 95362 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 20107-h/images/illus007-tb.jpg | bin | 0 -> 21569 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 20107-h/images/illus007.jpg | bin | 0 -> 105982 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 20107-h/images/illus008-tb.jpg | bin | 0 -> 19641 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 20107-h/images/illus008.jpg | bin | 0 -> 92515 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 20107-h/images/map-tb.png | bin | 0 -> 11896 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 20107-h/images/map.png | bin | 0 -> 36816 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 20107.txt | 2579 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 20107.zip | bin | 0 -> 55855 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | LICENSE.txt | 11 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | README.md | 2 |
27 files changed, 8406 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/20107-8.txt b/20107-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b8f999e --- /dev/null +++ b/20107-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2579 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Denmark, by M. Pearson Thomson, Illustrated +by F. J. Hyldahl + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Denmark + + +Author: M. Pearson Thomson + + + +Release Date: December 13, 2006 [eBook #20107] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DENMARK*** + + +E-text prepared by Juliet Sutherland, Ralph Janke, and the Project +Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net/) + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 20107-h.htm or 20107-h.zip: + (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/0/1/0/20107/20107-h/20107-h.htm) + or + (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/0/1/0/20107/20107-h.zip) + + +Transcriber's notes: + + Text that is printed in italic style in the original is + enclosed between underscores (_italic text_) + + The section of the book about Norway is not included. + + + + + +Peeps at Many Lands + +NORWAY +BY LIEUT.-COL. A. F. MOCKLER-FERRYMAN, +F.R.G.S., F.Z.S. + +and + +DENMARK +BY M. PEARSON THOMSON + +With Sixteen Full-Page Illustrations +in Colour + + + + + + + +The MacMillan Company +64 & 66 Fifth Avenue, New York +1921 + + + + +DENMARK + +[Illustration: SKETCH-MAP OF DENMARK.] + + + + +CONTENTS + + +DENMARK + +_By M. Pearson Thomson_ + + I. MERRY COPENHAGEN--I 1 + + II. MERRY COPENHAGEN--II 6 + + III. HANS ANDERSEN--THE "FAIRY-TALE" OF HIS LIFE 12 + + IV. FAMOUS DANES 18 + + V. LEGENDARY LORE AND FOLK-DANCES 25 + + VI. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 32 + + VII. A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND--I 39 + +VIII. A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND--II 45 + + IX. THE PEOPLE'S AMUSEMENTS 51 + + X. FARM LIFE--BUTTER-MAKING--"HEDESELSKABET" 54 + + XI. SOLDIERS AND SAILORS 59 + + XII. THE PEOPLE OF THE ISLES 66 + +XIII. FISHERMEN AT HOME AND AFLOAT 72 + + XIV. YOUTHFUL DANES AT WORK AND PLAY 78 + + XV. INGEBORG'S JOURNEY THROUGH SEELAND 83 + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS + + + + +DENMARK + +_By F. J. Hyldahl_ + + FACING PAGE + +FLOWER MARKET IN COPENHAGEN 9 + +DRAGÖR PEASANT 16 + +CHILDREN'S DAY 33 + +HARVEST-TIME 40 + +VAGT-PARADEN 57 + +SUNDAY IN THE ISLAND OF LÆSÖ 64 + +SKAGEN FISHERMAN NEAR THE TOWER OF BURIED CHURCH 73 + +WINTER IN THE FOREST 80 + +_Sketch-Map, page ii, Denmark Section._ + + + + + + + + + +DENMARK + + + + +CHAPTER I + +MERRY COPENHAGEN--I + + +Copenhagen, the metropolis of Denmark, is a large and flourishing city, +with all the modern improvements of a commercial capital. It has an +atmosphere of its own, an atmosphere of friendliness and gaiety, +particularly appreciated by English people, who in "Merry Copenhagen" +always feel themselves at home. + +The approach to this fine city from the North by the Cattegat is very +charming. Sailing through the Sound, you come upon this "Athens of the +North" at its most impressive point, where the narrow stretch of water +which divides Sweden and Denmark lies like a silvery blue ribbon between +the two countries, joining the Cattegat to the Baltic Sea. In summer the +sparkling, blue Sound, of which the Danes are so justly proud, is alive +with traffic of all kinds. Hundreds of steamers pass to and from the +North Sea and Baltic, carrying their passengers and freights from +Russia, Germany, Finland, and Sweden, to the whole world. In olden times +Denmark exacted toll from these passing ships, which the nations found +irksome, but the Danes most profitable. This "Sundtold" was abolished +finally at the wish of the different nations using this "King's +highway," who combined to pay a large lump sum to Denmark, in order that +their ships might sail through the Sound without this annoyance in +future. + +Kronborg Castle, whose salute demanded this toll in olden days, still +rears its stately pinnacles against the blue sky, and looking towards +the old fortress of Kjärnan, on the Swedish coast, seems to say, "Our +glory is of a bygone day, and in the land of memories." + +Elsinore, the ancient town which surrounds this castle, is well known to +English and American tourists as the supposed burial-place of Hamlet, +the Prince of Denmark immortalized by Shakespeare. Kronborg Castle is +interesting to us, in addition, as being the place where Anne of Denmark +was married by proxy to James I. of England. Here, also, the "Queen of +Tears," Caroline Matilda, sister of George III., spent some unhappy +months in prison, gazing sadly over the Sound, waiting for the English +ships to come and deliver her. + +We pass up the Sound viewing the luxuriant cool green beech-woods of +Denmark, and the pretty fishing villages lying in the foreground. Villas +with charming gardens--their tiny rickety landing-stages, bathing sheds, +and tethered boats, adding fascination to the homely scene--seem to +welcome us to this land of fairy tales and the home of Hans Andersen. + +The many towers and pinnacles of Copenhagen, with the golden dome of the +Marble Church, flash a welcome as we steam into the magnificent harbour +of this singularly well-favoured city. Here she stands, this "Queen of +the North," as a gracious sentinel bowing acquiescence to the passing +ships as they glide in and out of the Baltic. The broad quays are +splendidly built, lined with fine warehouses, and present a busy scene +of commercial activity. The warships lying at their moorings in the +Sound denote that this is the station of the fleet; here also we see the +country's only fortress--the formidable bulwarks which surround the +harbour. + +Kjöbenhavn in Danish means "merchants' harbour," and as early as the +eleventh century it was a trading centre for foreign merchants attracted +by the rich supply of herrings found by the Danish fishermen in the +Baltic. Bishop Absalon was the founder of the city. This warrior Bishop +strongly fortified the place, in 1167, on receiving the little +settlement from King Valdemar the Great, and had plenty to do to hold +it, as it was continually harassed by pirates and the Wends. These, +however, found the Bishop more than a match for them. His outposts would +cry, "The Wends are coming!" and the Bishop would leave his preaching, +his bed, or anything else he might be doing, gather his forces together, +and fight gallantly for his little stronghold. He perhaps recognized +that this might one day be the key to the Baltic, which it has since +become. + +This city, therefore, is not a new one, but bombardment and +conflagrations are responsible for its modern appearance. Fortunately, +some of the handsome edifices raised during the reign of Christian IV. +(1588-1648) still remain to adorn the city. This monarch was a great +architect, sailor, warrior, and King, and is one of the most striking +figures in Danish history. He was beloved by his people, and did much +for his kingdom. The buildings planned and erected during this monarch's +reign are worthy of our admiration. The beautiful Exchange, with its +curious tower formed by four dragons standing on their heads, and +entwining their tails into a dainty spire; Rosenborg Castle, with its +delicate pinnacles; the famous "Runde Taarn" (Round Tower), up whose +celebrated spiral causeway Peter the Great is said to have driven a +carriage and pair, are amongst the most noteworthy. The originality in +design of the spires and towers of Copenhagen is quite remarkable. Vor +Frelsers Kirke, or Church of Our Saviour, has an outside staircase, +running round the outside of its spire, which leads up to a figure of +our Saviour, and from this height you get a fine view of the city. The +tower of the fire-station, in which the fire-hose hangs at full length; +the copper-sheathed clock and bell tower--the highest in Denmark--of the +Town Hall; the Eiffel-like tower of the Zoo, are among the most +singular. In all these towers there is a beautiful blending of copper +and gold, which gives a distinctive and attractive character to the +city. Other prominent features are the pretty fish-scale tiling, and the +copper and bronze roofs of many of the buildings, with their "stepped" +gables. Charming, too, are the city's many squares and public gardens, +canals with many-masted ships making an unusual spectacle in the +streets. But, after all, it is perhaps the innate gaiety of the +Copenhagener which impresses you most. You feel, indeed, that these +kindly Danes are a little too content for national development; but +their light-hearted way of viewing life makes them very pleasant +friends, and their hospitality is one of their chief characteristics. +Every lady at the head of a Danish household is an excellent cook and +manager, as well as being an agreeable and intelligent companion. The +Copenhagener is a "flat" dweller, and the dining-room is the largest and +most important room in every home. The Dane thinks much of his dinner, +and dinner-parties are the principal form of entertainment. They joke +about their appreciation of the good things of the table, and say, "a +turkey is not a good table-bird, as it is a little too much for one +Dane, but not enough for two!" A very pleasant side of Copenhagen life +has sprung up from this appreciation, for the restaurants and cafés are +numerous, and cater well for their customers. While the Dane eats he +must have music, which, like the food, must be good; he is very +critical, and a good judge of both. This gay café and restaurant life is +one of the fascinations of Denmark's "too-large heart," as this pleasant +capital is called by its people. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +MERRY COPENHAGEN--II + + +The climate of Copenhagen is delightful in summer, but quite the reverse +in winter. Andersen says "the north-east wind and the sunbeams fought +over the 'infant Copenhagen,' consequently the wind and the 'mud-king' +reign in winter, the sunbeams in summer, and the latter bring +forgetfulness of winter's hardships." Certainly, when the summer comes, +the sunshine reigns supreme, and makes Copenhagen bright and pleasant +for its citizens. Then the many water-ways and canals, running up from +the sea as they do into the heart of the city, make it delightfully +refreshing on a hot day. Nyhavn, for instance, which opens out of the +Kongen's Nytorv--the fashionable centre of the town--is one of the +quaintest of water-streets. The cobbled way on either side of the water, +the curious little shops with sailors' and ships' wares, old gabled +houses, fishing and cargo boats with their forests of masts, the little +puffing motor-boats plying to and fro--all serve to make a distinctive +picture. On another canal-side the fish-market is held every morning. A +Danish fish-market is not a bit like other fish-markets, for the Dane +must buy his fish alive, and the canal makes this possible. The +fishing-smacks line up the whole side of the quay; these have perforated +wooden boat-shaped tanks dragging behind them containing the lively +fish. The market-women sit on the quay, surrounded by wooden tubs, which +are half-filled with water, containing the unfortunate fish. A +trestle-table, on which the fish are killed and cleaned, completes the +equipment of the fish-wives. The customers scrutinize the contents of +the tub, choose a fish as best they can from the leaping, gasping +multitude, and its fate is sealed. When the market-women require more +fish, the perforated tank is raised from the canal, and the fish +extracted with a landing-net and deposited in their tubs. Small fish +only can be kept alive in tanks and tubs; the larger kinds, such as cod, +are killed and sold in the ordinary way. This market is not at all a +pleasant sight, so it is better to turn our backs on it, and pass on to +the fragrant flower-market. + +Here the famous Amager women expose their merchandise. This market +square is a gay spectacle, for the Dane is fond of flowers, and the +Amager wife knows how to display her bright blooms to advantage. These +vendors are notable characters. They are the descendants of the Dutch +gardeners brought over by Christian II. to grow fruit and vegetables for +Copenhagen, and settled on the fertile island of Amager which abuts on +the city. Every morning these Amager peasants may be seen driving their +laden carts across the bridge which joins their island to the mainland. +These genial, stout, but sometimes testy Amager wives have it all their +own way in the market-place, and are clever in attracting and befooling +a customer. So it has become a saying, if you look sceptical about what +you are told, the "story-teller" will say, "Ask Amager mother!" which +means, "Believe as much as you like." These women still wear their +quaint costume: bulky petticoats, clean checked apron, shoulder-shawl, +and poke-bonnets with white kerchief over them; and the merry twinkle of +satisfaction in the old face when a good bargain has been completed +against the customer's inclination is quite amusing. These interesting +old characters are easily irritated, and this the little Copenhageners +know full well. When stalls are being packed for departure, a naughty +band of urchins will appear round the corner and call out: + + "Amager mother, Amager mo'er, + Give us carrots from your store; + You are so stout and roundabout, + Please tell us if you find the door + Too small to let you through!" + +The Amager wife's wrath is soon roused, and she is often foolish enough +to try and move her bulky proportions somewhat quicker than usual in +order to catch the boys. This of course she never manages to do, for +they dart away in all directions. By this means the Amager woman gets a +little much-needed exercise, the boys a great deal of amusement. + +[Illustration: THE FLOWER MARKET, COPENHAGEN.] + +Sunday is a fête-day in Copenhagen, and the Dane feels no obligation to +attend a Church service before starting out on his Sunday expedition. A +day of leisure means a day of pleasure to the Copenhagener. The State +helps and encourages him by having cheap fares, and good but inexpensive +performances at the theatre and places of entertainment on Sunday. Even +the poorest people manage to spare money for this periodical outing, +mother and children taking their full share in the simple pleasures of +the day. The Copenhagener looks forward to this weekly entertainment, +and longs for the fresh air. This is not surprising, for many homes are +stuffy, ventilation and open windows not seeming a necessity. A fine +summer Sunday morning sees a leisurely stream of people--the Danes never +hurry themselves--making for tram, train, or motor-boat, which will +carry them off to the beautiful woods and shores lying beyond the city. +Basking in the sunshine, or enjoying a stroll through the woods, +feasting on the contents of their picnic baskets, with a cup of coffee +or glass of pilsener at a café where music is always going on, they +spend a thoroughly happy day. In the evening the tired but still joyous +throng return home, all the better for the simple and pleasant outing. +No country uses the bicycle more than Denmark, and Sunday is the day +when it is used most. For the people who prefer to take their dinner at +home on Sunday there is the pleasant stroll along the celebrated +Langelinie. This famous promenade, made upon the old ramparts, +overlooks the Sound with its innumerable yachts skimming over the blue +water, and is a delightful place for pedestrians. A walk round the moat +of the Citadel, on the waters of which the children sail their little +boats, is also enjoyable. This Citadel, now used as barracks, was built +by Frederik III. in 1663, and formerly served as a political prison. +Struensee, the notorious Prime Minister, was imprisoned here and +beheaded for treason. A few narrow, picturesque streets surrounding this +fort are all that remain of old Copenhagen. + +The art treasures contained in the museums of Copenhagen being renowned, +I must tell you a little about them. Two or three of the palaces not now +required by the Royal Family are used to store some of these treasures. +Rosenborg Castle, built by Christian IV., and in which he died, contains +a collection of family treasures belonging to the Oldenburg dynasty. +This historical collection of these art-loving Kings is always open to +the public. Besides Thorvaldsen's Museum, which contains the greater +portion of his works, there is the Carlsberg Glyptotek, which contains +the most beautiful sculpture of the French School outside France. The +Danish Folk-Museum is another interesting collection. This illustrates +the life and customs of citizens and peasants from the seventeenth +century to the present day, partly by single objects, and partly by +representations of their dwellings. The "Kunstmusæet" contains a superb +collection of pictures, sculpture, engravings, and national relics. +Here a table may be seen which formerly stood in Christian II.'s prison. +History tells how the unhappy King was wont to pace round this table for +hours taking his daily exercise, leaning upon his hand, which in time +ploughed a groove in its hard surface. The Amalienborg, a fine +tessellated square, contains four Royal palaces, in one of which our +Queen Alexandra spent her girlhood. From the windows of these palaces +the daily spectacle of changing the guard is witnessed by the King and +young Princes. + +Copenhagen is celebrated for its palaces, its parks, porcelain, +statuary, art-treasures, and last, but not least, its gaiety. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +HANS CHRISTIAN ANDERSEN, THE "FAIRY TALE" OF HIS LIFE + + +I suppose the Dane best known to English boys and girls is Hans +Christian Andersen, whose charming fairy-tales are well known and loved +by them all. Most of you, however, know little about his life, but are +interested enough in him, I dare say, to wish to learn more, especially +as the knowledge will give you keener delight--if that is possible--in +reading the works of this "Prince of Story-tellers." + +Andersen himself said: "My life has been so wonderful and so like a +fairy-tale, that I think I had a fairy godmother who granted my every +wish, for if I had chosen my own life's way, I could not have chosen +better." + +Hans C. Andersen was the son of a poor shoemaker, an only child, born in +Odense, the capital of the Island of Funen. His parents were devoted to +him, and his father, who was of a studious turn of mind, delighted in +teaching his little son and interesting him in Nature. Very early in +life Hans was taken for long Sunday rambles, his father pointing out to +him the beauties of woods and meadows, or enchanting him with stories +from the "Arabian Nights." + +At home the evenings were spent in dressing puppets for his favourite +show, or else, sitting on his father's knee, he listened while the +latter read aloud to his mother scenes from Holberg's plays. All day +Hans played with his puppet theatre, and soon began to imagine plays and +characters for the dolls, writing out programmes for them as soon as he +was able. Occasionally his grandmother would come and take the child to +play in the garden of the big house where she lived in the gardener's +lodge. These were red-letter days for little Hans, as he loved his +granny and enjoyed most thoroughly the pleasant garden and pretty +flowers. + +The boy's first great trouble came when his father caught a fever and +died, leaving his mother without any means of support. To keep the +little home together his mother went out washing for her neighbours, +leaving little Hans to take care of himself. Being left to his own +devices, Hans developed his theatrical tendencies by constructing +costumes for his puppets, and making them perform his plays on the stage +of his toy theatre. Soon he varied this employment by reading plays and +also writing some himself. His mother, though secretly rejoicing in her +son's talent, soon saw the necessity for his doing something more +practical with his time and assisting her to keep the home together. So +at twelve years of age Hans was sent to a cloth-weaving factory, where +he earned a small weekly wage. The weavers soon discovered that Hans +could sing, and the men frequently made him amuse them, while the other +boys were made to do his work. One day the weavers played a coarse +practical joke on poor sensitive Hans, which sent him flying home in +such deep distress that his mother said he should not again return to +the factory. + +Hans was now sent to the parish school for a few hours daily, and his +spare time was taken up with his "peep-show" and in fashioning smart +clothes for his puppets. His mother intended to apprentice her son to +the tailoring, but Hans had fully made up his mind to become an actor +and seek his fortune in Copenhagen. After his Confirmation--on which +great occasion he wore his father's coat and his first new boots--his +mother insisted on his being apprenticed without further delay. With +difficulty he finally succeeded in persuading her to let him start for +the capital with his few savings. His mother had married again, so could +not accompany him; therefore, with reluctance and with many injunctions +to return at once if all did not turn out well, she let him go. +Accompanying him to the town gate, they passed a gipsy on the way, who, +on being asked what fortune she could prophesy for the poor lad, said he +would return a great man, and his native place would be illuminated and +decorated in his honour! + +Hans arrived in Copenhagen on September 5, a date which he considered +lucky for ever after. A few days in the city soon saw an end to his +money. He applied and got work at a carpenter's shop, but was driven +away by the coarseness of his fellow-workers. Hans made a friend of the +porter at the stage-door of the theatre, and begged for some employment +in the theatre; so occasionally he was allowed to walk across the stage +in a crowd, but obtained scanty remuneration, and the lad was often +hungry. Starving and destitute, the happy idea occurred to our hero to +try and earn something by his voice. He applied to Siboni, the Director +of the Music School, and was admitted to his presence whilst the latter +was at dinner. Fortunately for Hans, Baggersen the poet and Weyse the +celebrated composer were of the party, so for their amusement the boy +was asked to sing and recite. Weyse was so struck by the quality of his +voice and Baggersen with his poetic feeling, that they made a collection +among them there and then for him, and Siboni undertook to train his +voice. Unfortunately, in six months' time his voice gave way, and Siboni +counselled him to learn a trade. Hans returned to the theatre in the +hope of employment, and his persistence finally gained him a place in a +market scene. Making a friend of the son of the librarian, he obtained +permission to read at the library, and he wrote tragedies and plays, +some of which he took to the director of the theatre. This man became +Andersen's friend for life, for the grains of gold which he saw in his +work, marred though it was by want of education, roused his interest. +The director brought Andersen to the notice of the King, and he was sent +to the Latin school, where he took his place--although now a grown +man--among the boys in the lowest class but one. The master's tongue was +sharp, and the sensitive youth was dismayed by his own ignorance. The +kindness and sympathetic encouragement of the director was the only +brightness of this period of Hans' life. University life followed that +of school, and Andersen took a good degree. He now wrote a play, which +was accepted and produced at the theatre with such success that he wept +for joy. Soon his poems were published, and happiness and prosperity +followed. Later the King granted him a travelling stipend, of forty-five +pounds a year, and travelling became his greatest pleasure. Andersen +visited England two or three times, and reckoned Charles Dickens among +his friends. He was the honoured guest of Kings and Princes, and the +Royal Family of Denmark treated him as a personal friend. + +Though his "Fairy Tales" are the best known of his writings, he wrote +successful novels, dramas and poems. Andersen's tastes were simple, and +his child-like, affectionate nature made him much beloved by all. His +native town, which he left as a poor boy, was illuminated and decorated +to welcome his return. Thus the gipsy's prophecy came true. He died +after the public celebration of his seventieth birthday, leaving all his +fortune to the family of his beloved benefactor, the director of the +theatre. A beautiful bronze monument is erected to his memory in the +children's garden of the King's Park, Copenhagen. Here the little Danes +have ever a gentle reminder of their great friend, Hans C. Andersen, who +felt--to use his own words--"like a poor boy who had had a King's mantle +thrown over him." + +[Illustration: DRAGÖR PEASANT.] + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +FAMOUS DANES + + +Bertel Thorvaldsen (1770-1844), the famous Danish sculptor, was born in +Copenhagen. His father was an Icelander, his mother a Dane, and both +very poor. Bertel's ambition when a little boy was to work his mother's +spinning-wheel, which, of course, he was never permitted to do. One +bright, moonlight night his parents were awakened by a soft, whirring +sound, and found their little son enjoying his realized ambition. In the +moonlit room he had successfully started the wheel and begun to spin, +much to his parents' astonishment. This was the beginning of his +creative genius, but many years went over his youthful head before he +created the works which made him famous. His father carved wooden +figure-heads for ships, and intended his son to follow the same calling. +Bertel, however, soon showed talent and inclination for something +better, and was sent to the Free School of the Art Academy, there making +great progress. He received very little education beyond what the Art +School gave him, and his youthful days were hard and poverty-stricken. +When his hours at the Academy were over he went from house to house +trying to sell his models, and in this way eked out a scanty living. In +spite of his poverty he was wholly satisfied, for his wants were few. +His dog and his pipe, both necessities for happiness, accompanied him in +all his wanderings. + +His true artistic career only began in earnest when he won a travelling +scholarship and went to Rome, where he arrived on his twenty-seventh +birthday. Stimulated to do his best by the many beautiful works of art +which surrounded him, he found production easy, and the classical beauty +of the Roman school appealed to him. Regretting his wasted years, he set +to work in great earnest, and during the rest of his life produced a +marvellous amount of beautiful work. A rich Scotsman bought his first +important work, and the money thus obtained was the means of starting +him firmly on his upward career. This highly talented Dane founded the +famous Sculpture School of Denmark, which is of world-wide reputation. +Thorvaldsen's beautiful designs--which were mainly classical--were +conceived with great rapidity, and his pupils carried many of them out, +becoming celebrated sculptors also. Dying suddenly in 1844, while seated +in the stalls of the theatre watching the play, his loss was a national +calamity. He bequeathed all his works to the nation, and these now form +the famous Thorvaldsen Museum, which attracts the artistic-loving people +of all nations to the city of Copenhagen. + +In the courtyard of this museum lies the great man's simple grave, his +beautiful works being contained in the building which surrounds it. + +At the top of this Etruscan tomb stands a fine bronze allegorical +group--the Goddess of Victory in her car, drawn by prancing +horses--fitting memorial to this greatest of northern sculptors. + +Holger Drachmann was the son of a physician, and quite early in life +became a man of letters. Following the profession of an artist, he +became a very good marine painter. This poet loved the sea in all its +moods, and was never happier than when at Skagen--the extreme northern +point of Jutland--where he spent most of his summers. His painting was +his favourite pastime, but poetry the serious work of his life. He was a +very prolific writer, not only of verse and lyrical poems, but of plays +and prose works, and was a very successful playwright. Drachmann's +personality was a strong one, though not always agreeable to his +countrymen. He had a freedom-loving spirit, and lived every moment of +his life. Some of his best poems are about the Skaw fishermen, and later +in life he settled down among them, dying at Skagen in 1907. He was a +picturesque figure, with white flowing locks, erratic and unpractical, +as poets often are. Like other famous Danes, he chose a unique +burial-place. Away at Grenen, in the sand-dunes, overlooking the +fighting waters of the Skagerack and Cattegat, stands his +cromlech-shaped tomb, near the roar of the sea he loved so much, where +time and sand will soon obliterate all that remains of the Byron of +Denmark. + +Nikolai Frederik Grundtvig, the founder of the popular high-schools for +peasants, was born at his father's parsonage, Udby, South Seeland. He +was sent to school in Jutland, and soon learned to love his wild native +moors. While attending the Latin School in Aarhus he made friends with +an old shoemaker, who used to tell him interesting stories of the old +Norse heroes and sagas, often repeating the old Danish folk-songs. The +lad being a true Dane, a descendant of the old vikings, he soon became +very interested in the history of his race. Being sent to the University +of Copenhagen, he chose to study Icelandic in order to read the ancient +sagas, English to read Shakespeare, and German to read Goethe. This +studious youth was most patriotic, and the poetry of his country +appealed to him especially. Øehlenschläger's (a Danish poet) works fired +his poetical imagination. + +Grundtvig's poems were for the people, the beloved Jutland moors and +Nature generally his theme. His songs and poems are loved by the +peasants, and used at all their festivals. He wrote songs "that would +make bare legs skip at sound of them," and, "like a bird in the +greenwood, he would sing for the country-folk." So successfully did he +write these folk-songs, that "bare legs" do skip at the sound of them +even to-day at every festivity. He was an educational enthusiast, and +his high-schools are peculiar to Denmark. It is owing to these that the +country possesses such a splendid band of peasant farmers. Being a +priest, he was given the honorary title of Bishop, and founded a sect +called "Grundtvigianere." + +This noble man died in 1872, over ninety years of age, working and +preaching till the last, his deep-set eyes, flowing white hair and +beard, making him look like Moses of old. + +Adam Øehlenschläger, the greatest Danish dramatist and poet, was a +Professor at the University of Copenhagen, and a marvellously gifted +man. He developed and gave character to Danish literature, and is known +as the "Goethe of the North." Some of his finest tragedies have been +translated into English. These have a distinctly northern ring about +them, dealing as they do with the legends and sagas of the Scandinavian +people. These tragedies of the mythical heroes of Scandinavia, the +history of their race, and, indeed, all the works of this king of +northern poets, are greatly loved by all Scandinavians. Every young Dane +delights in Øehlenschläger as we do in Shakespeare, and by reading his +works the youths of Denmark lay the foundation of their education in +poetry. This bard was crowned Laureate in Lund (Sweden) by the greatest +of Swedish poets, Esaias Tegner, 1829. Buried by his own request at his +birth-place, Frederiksberg, two Danish miles (which means eight English +miles) from Copenhagen, his loving countrymen insisted on carrying him +the whole distance, so great was their admiration for this King of +dramatists. + +Niels Ryberg Finsen, whose name I am sure you have heard because his +scientific research gave us the "light-cure"--which has been established +at the London Hospital by our Queen Alexandra, who generously gave the +costly apparatus required for the cure in order to benefit afflicted +English people--was born at Thorshavn, the capital of the Faroe Islands. +These islands are under Denmark, and lie north of the Shetlands. His +father was magistrate there. His parents were Icelanders. At twelve +years of age Niels was sent to school in Denmark, and after a few years +at the Grammar School of Herlufholm, he returned to his parents, who +were now stationed in their native town, Reykjavik, the capital of +Iceland. Niels continued his studies there, and when old enough returned +to Denmark to commence his medical work at the University of Copenhagen. + +Hitherto he had shown no particular aptitude, but in his medical work he +soon distinguished himself, and his skill gained him a place in the +laboratory. He now began to study the effect of light as a curative +remedy. All his life Finsen thought the sunlight the most beautiful +thing in the world--perhaps because he saw so little of it in his +childhood. He had watched its wonderful effect on all living things, +being much impressed by the transformation caused in nature by the warm +life-giving rays. With observations on lizards, which he found +charmingly responsive to sun effects, he accidentally made his +discovery, and gave to the world this famous remedy for diseases of the +skin, which has relieved thousands of sufferers of all nations. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +LEGENDARY LORE AND FOLK DANCES + + +The legend of Holger Danske, who is to be Denmark's deliverer when heavy +troubles come upon her, is one which has its counterpart in other +countries, resembling that of our own King Arthur and the German +Frederick Barbarossa. When Denmark's necessity demands, Holger Danske +will come to her aid; till then he sits "in the deep dark cellar of +Kronborg Castle, into which none may enter. He is clad in iron and +steel, and rests his head on his strong arms; his long beard hangs down +upon the marble table, into which it has become firmly rooted; he sleeps +and dreams. But in his dreams he sees all that happens in Denmark. On +each Christmas Eve an angel comes to him and tells him all he has +dreamed is true, and that he may sleep again in peace, as Denmark is not +yet in real danger. But should danger ever come, then Holger Danske will +rouse himself, and the table will burst asunder as he draws out his +beard. Then he will come forth in all his strength, and strike a blow +that shall sound in all the countries of the world." + +Holger Danske was the son of the Danish King Gotrick. While he was a +youth his father sent him to Carolus Magnus, whom he served during all +his wars. Thus he came to India, where he ate a fruit which made his +body imperishable. When Denmark is near ruin, and all her young men have +been slain in defending her, then Holger Danske will appear, and, +gathering round him all the young boys and aged men, will lead them on +to victory, routing the enemy, and thus saving the country. When a +little plant growing in the Lake of Viborg has become a tree, so large +that you can tie your horse to it, then the time draws near when all +this will happen. + +Once upon a time the Danes were in great trouble, for they had no King. +But one day they saw a barque, splendidly decked, sailing towards the +coast of Denmark. As the ship came nearer the shore they saw it was +laden with quantities of gold and weapons, but not a soul was to be seen +on board. When the Danes boarded the ship, they found a little boy lying +asleep on the deck, and above his head floated a golden banner. Thinking +that their god Odin had sent the boy, they brought him ashore and +proclaimed him King. They named him Skjold, and he became a great and +good King. His fame was such that the Danish Kings to this day are +called "Skjoldunger." When this King died, his body was placed on board +a ship which was loaded with treasure; and when it sailed slowly away +over the blue water, the Danes stood on the shore looking after it with +sorrow. What became of the ship no one ever knew. + +Denmark is rich in legends. There is the legend about the "Danebrog," +Denmark's national flag, which is a white cross on a crimson ground. +This bright and beautiful flag looks thoroughly at home whatever its +surroundings. The story goes that when Valdemar Seir (the Victorious) +descended on the shores of Esthonia to help the knights who were hard +pressed in a battle with the heathen Esthonians (1219), a miracle befell +him. The valour of his troops soon made an impression on the pagans, and +they began to sue for peace. It was granted, and the priests baptized +the supposed converts. Very soon, however, the Esthonians, who had been +secretly reinforcing while pretending submission, in order to throw dust +in the eyes of the too confiding Danes, brought up their forces and +commenced fighting anew. "It was the eve of St. Vitus, and the Danes +were singing Vespers in camp, when suddenly a wild howl rang through the +summer evening, and the heathens poured out of the woods, attacked the +surprised Danes on all sides, and quickly thinned their ranks. The Danes +began to waver, but the Prince of Rugen, who was stationed on the hill, +had time to rally his followers and stay the progress of the enemy. It +was a terrible battle. The Archbishop Andreas Sunesen with his priests +mounted the hill to lay the sword of prayer in the scales of battle; the +Danes rallied, and their swords were not blunt when they turned upon +their enemies. Whilst the Archbishop and others prayed, the Danes were +triumphant; but when his arms fell to his side through sheer weariness, +the heathens prevailed. Then the priests supported the aged man's arms, +who, like Moses of old, supplicated for his people with extended hands. +The battle was still raging, and the banner of the Danes had been lost +in the fight. As the prayers continued the miracle happened. A red +banner, with the Holy Cross in white upon it, came floating gently down +from the heavens, and a voice was heard saying, 'When this sign is borne +on high you shall conquer.' The tide of battle turned, the Christians +gathered themselves together under the banner of the Cross, and the +heathens were filled with fear and fled. Then the Danes knelt down on +the battle-field and praised God, while King Valdemar drew his sword, +and for the first time under the folds of the Danebrog dubbed +five-and-thirty of the bravest heroes knights." Another legend tells the +fate of a wicked Queen of Denmark, Gunhild by name. This Queen was first +the consort of a Norwegian monarch, who, finding her more than he or his +people could stand, thrust her out of his kingdom. She made her way to +Denmark, and soon after married the Danish King. Though beautiful, Queen +Gunhild's pride and arrogance made her hateful to her new subjects, and +her attendants watched their opportunity to rid themselves of such an +obnoxious mistress. The time came for them when the Queen was travelling +through Jutland. A sign was given to her bearers, whilst journeying +through the marshes near Vejle, to drop her down into the bog. This was +done, and a stake driven through her body. To-day in the church at Vejle +a body lies enclosed in a glass coffin, with a stake lying beside it, +the teeth and long black hair being in excellent preservation. This body +was found in 1821, when the marshes near Vejle were being drained for +cultivation. The stake was found through it, thus giving colour to the +tradition. Poor Queen! lost in the eleventh century and found in the +nineteenth. + + +_Folk-dancers._ + +The Danes, like all the Scandinavians, are renowned for their love of +dancing. Lately they have revived the beautiful old folk-dances, +realizing at last the necessity of keeping the ancient costumes, dances +and songs before the people, if they would not have them completely +wiped out. A few patriotic Danes have formed a society of ladies and +gentlemen to bring about this revival. These are called the +folk-dancers, their object being to stimulate the love of old-time +Denmark in the modern Dane, by showing him the dance, accompanied by +folk-song, which his forefathers delighted in. Old-time ways the Dane of +to-day is perhaps a little too ready to forget, but dance and song +appeal to his northern nature. The beautiful old costumes of the Danish +peasants have almost entirely disappeared, but those worn by the +folk-dancers are facsimiles of the costumes formerly worn in the +districts they represent. These costumes, with heavy gold embroidery, +curious hats, or pretty velvet caps, weighty with silver lace, must have +been a great addition to local colouring. The men also wore a gay dress, +and it is to be regretted that these old costumes have disappeared from +the villages and islands of Denmark. + +In olden times the voice was the principal accompaniment of the dance, +and these folk-lorists generally sing while dancing; but occasionally a +fiddler or flautist plays for them, and becomes the leader in the dance. +Some of these dances are of a comical nature, and no doubt were invented +to parody the shortcomings of some local character. Others represent +local industries. A pretty dance is "Voeve Vadmel" (cloth-weaving). In +this some dancers become the bobbins, others form the warp and woof; +thus they go in and out, weaving themselves into an imaginary piece of +cloth. Then, rolling themselves into a bale, they stand a moment, +unwind, reverse, and then disperse. This dance is accompanied by the +voices of the dancers, who, as they sing, describe each movement of the +dance. A very curious dance is called "Seven Springs," and its principal +figure is a series of springs from the floor, executed by the lady, +aided by her partner. Another two are called respectively the "Men's +Pleasure" and the "Girls' Pleasure." In these both men and girls choose +their own partners, and coquet with them by alluring facial expressions +during the dance. The "Tinker's Dance" is a solo dance for a man, which +is descriptive and amusing; while the "Degnedans" is more an amusing +performance in pantomime than a dance, executed by two men. Many more +than I can tell you about have been revived by the folk-dancers, who +take a keen delight in discovering and learning them. They are +entertaining and instructive to the looker-on, and a healthy, though +fatiguing, amusement for the dancers. + +In the Faroe Islands the old-time way is still in vogue, and the dance +is only accompanied by the voice and clapping of hands. Thus do these +descendants of the old vikings keep high festival to celebrate a good +"catch" of whales. + +The old folk-songs, which were sung by the people when dancing and at +other times, have a national value which the Danes fully realize, many +being written down and treasured in the country's archives. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +MANNERS AND CUSTOMS + + +The Danes being a polite and well-mannered race, the children are early +taught to tender thanks for little pleasures, and this they do in a +pretty way by thrusting out their tiny hands and saying, "Tak" (Thank +you). It is the Danish custom to greet everybody, including the +servants, with "Good-morning," and always on entering a shop you give +greeting, and say farewell on leaving. In the market-place it is the +same; also the children, when leaving school, raise their caps to the +teacher and call out, "Farvel! farvel!" In the majority of houses when +the people rise from the table they say, "Tak for Mad"[1] to the host, +who replies, "Velbekomme."[2] The children kiss their parents and say +the same, while the parents often kiss each other and say, "Velbekomme." +The Danes are rather too eager to wipe out old customs, and in +Copenhagen the fashionable people ignore this pretty ceremony. The +majority, however, feel uncomfortable if not allowed to thank their host +or hostess for their food. + +[Illustration: CHILDREN'S DAY.] + +A Danish lady, about to visit England for the first time, was told +that here it was customary to say "Grace" after meals. The surprise of +the English host may be imagined when his Danish guest, on rising from +the table, solemnly put out her hand and murmured the word "Grace!" +After a day or two, when this ceremony had been most dutifully performed +after every meal, the Englishman thought he had better ask for an +explanation. This was given, and the young Dane joined heartily in the +laugh against herself! + +The Danes begin their day with a light breakfast of coffee, fresh rolls, +and butter, but the children generally have porridge, or "öllebröd," +before starting for school. This distinctly Danish dish is made of +rye-bread, beer, milk, cream, and sometimes with the addition of a +beaten-up egg. This "Ske-Mad"[3] is very sustaining, but I fear would +prove a little too much for those unaccustomed to it. Øllebröd also is +the favourite Saturday supper-dish of the working-classes, with the +addition of salt herrings and slices of raw onion, which doubtless +renders it more piquant. + +At noon "Mid-dag"[4] is served. Another peculiar delicacy common both to +this meal and supper is "Smörrebröd," a "variety" sandwich consisting of +a slice of bread and butter covered with sausage, ham, fish, meat, +cheese, etc. making a tempting display, not hidden as in our sandwich by +a top layer of bread. The Danes are very hospitable, and often invite +poor students to dine with them regularly once a week. Dinner consists +of excellent soup (in summer made of fruit or preserves), meat, pudding +or fruit, and cream, and even the poorest have coffee after this meal. + +Prunes, stewed plums or apples, and sometimes cranberry jam, are always +served with the meat or game course, together with excellent but rather +rich sauce. The Danish housewife prides herself on the latter, as her +cooking abilities are often judged by the quality of her sauces. It is +quite usual for the Danish ladies to spend some months in learning +cooking and housekeeping in a large establishment to complete their +education. + +"Vær saa god"[5] says the maid or waiter when handing you anything, and +this formula is repeated by everyone when they wish you to enter a room, +or, in fact, to do anything. + +Birthdays and other anniversaries are much thought of in Denmark. The +"Födelsdagsbarn"[6] is generally given pretty bouquets or pots of +flowers, as well as presents. Flowers are used on every joyous occasion. +Students, both men and women, may be seen almost covered with bright +nosegays, given by their friends to celebrate any examination +successfully passed. + +Christmas Eve, and not Christmas Day, is the festive occasion in +Denmark. Everybody, including the poorest, must have a Christmas-tree, +and roast goose, apple-cake, rice porridge with an almond in it, form +the banquet. The lucky person who finds the almond receives an extra +present, and much mirth is occasioned by the search. The tree is lighted +at dusk, and the children dance round it and sing. This performance +opens the festivities; then the presents are given, dinner served, and +afterwards the young people dance. + +Christmas Day is kept quietly, but the day after (St. Stephen's Day) is +one of merriment and gaiety, when the people go from house to house to +greet their friends and "skaal" with them. + +New Year's Eve brings a masque ball for the young folk, a supper, +fireworks, and at midnight a clinking of glasses, when healths are drunk +in hot punch. + +On Midsummer's Night fires are lighted all over the country, and people +gather together to watch the burning of the tar-barrels. Near a lake or +on the seashore the reflections glinting on the water make a strangely +brilliant sight. On some of the fjords a water carnival makes a pretty +addition to these fires, which the children are told have been lighted +to scare the witches! + +The Monday before Lent is a holiday in all the schools. Early in the +morning the children, provided with decorated sticks, "fastelavns Ris," +rouse their parents and others from slumber. All who are found asleep +after a certain time must pay a forfeit of Lenten buns. Later in the day +the children dress themselves up in comical costume and parade the +streets, asking money from the passer-by as our children do on Guy +Fawkes' Day. + +A holy-day peculiar to Denmark is called "Store-Bededag" (Great Day of +Prayer), on the eve of which (Danes keep eves of festivals only) the +church bells ring and the people promenade in their best clothes. +"Store-Bededag" is the fourth Friday after Easter, and all business is +at a standstill, so that the people can attend church. On Whit-Sunday +some of the young folks rise early to see the sun dance on the water and +wash their faces in the dew. This is in preparation for the greatest +holiday in the year, Whit-Monday, when all give themselves up to outdoor +pleasure. + +"Grundlovsdag," which is kept in commemoration of the granting of a free +Constitution to the nation by Frederik VII., gives the town bands and +trade-unions an opportunity to parade the streets and display their +capability in playing national music. "Children's Day" is a school +holiday, and the children dress in the old picturesque Danish costumes; +they then go about the town and market-places begging alms for the +sanatoriums in their collecting-boxes. In this way a large sum is +collected for these charities. + +"Knocking-the-cat-out-of-the-barrel" is an old custom of the peasantry +which takes place the Monday before Lent. The young men dress themselves +gaily, and, armed with wooden clubs, hie them to the village green. Here +a barrel is suspended with a cat inside it. Each man knocks the barrel +with his club as he runs underneath it, and he who knocks a hole big +enough to liberate poor puss is the victor. The grotesque costumes, the +difficulty of stooping and running under the barrel in them, when all +your energies and attention are required for the blow, result in many a +comical catastrophe, which the bystanders enjoy heartily. Puss is +frightened, but not hurt, and I think it would be just as amusing +without the cat, but the Danish peasants think otherwise. Another +pastime which takes place on the same day is called "ring-riding." The +men, wearing paper hats and gay ribbons, gallop round the course, trying +to snatch a suspended ring in passing. The man who takes the ring three +times in succession is called "King," he who takes it twice "Prince." +When the sport is over, King and Prince, with their train of +unsuccessful competitors, ride round to the farms and demand refreshment +for their gay cavalcade, of which "Æleskiver," a peasant delicacy, +washed down by a glass of aqua-vitæ, forms a part. + +On the eve of "Valborg's Dag" (May-Day) bonfires are lighted, and the +young Danes have a dinner and dance given to them. Each dance is so long +that it is customary for the young men to change their partners two or +three times during the waltz. + +A beautiful custom is still preserved among the older peasantry: when +they cross the threshold of their neighbour's house they say, "God's +peace be in this house." + +All domestic servants, students, and other people who reside away from +home for a time, take about with them a chest of drawers as well as a +trunk. I suppose they find this necessary, because in Denmark a chest of +drawers is seldom provided in a bedroom. + +When the first snowdrops appear, the boys and girls gather some and +enclose them in a piece of paper, on which is written a poem. This +"Vintergække-Brev," which they post to their friends, is signed by +ink-spots, as numerous as the letters in their name. The friend must +guess the name of the sender within a week, or the latter demands a +gift. + +Confirmation means coming-out in Denmark. As this is the greatest +festival of youth, the young folk are loaded with presents; then girls +put up their hair and boys begin to smoke. + +The marriage of a daughter is an expensive affair for parents in +Denmark, as they are supposed to find all the home for the bride, as +well as the trousseau. The wedding-ring is worn by both while engaged, +as well as after the marriage ceremony. + +The Epiphany is celebrated in many homes by the burning of three +candles, and the children are given a holiday on this, the festival of +the Three Kings. No doubt you know this is a commemoration of the three +wise men of the East presenting their offerings of gold, frankincense, +and myrrh to our Lord. + +Storks are considered the sacred birds of Denmark. These harbingers of +good-luck the children take great interest in, and more especially in +the growth of the stork family on the roof-tree. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND--I + + +Jutland is the only province left to Denmark which can claim to be +mainland, and though it is the most northern part of the country, some +of its scenery is very beautiful. + +The "Jyde," as the people of Jutland are called, are proud of their +birthplace, of their language, and of their pronunciation, which the +Copenhageners call "accent," but the Jyde declare they speak the purest +Danish in the kingdom. However this may be, I am not in a position to +judge, but I do know that I can understand the Jyde Danish better, and +that it falls upon my ear with a more pleasing sound than does the +Danish of the Copenhageners. + +The east coast of Jutland is quite charming, so we will start our tour +from the first interesting spot on this route, and try to obtain a +glimpse of the country. + +In Kolding stands a famous castle, which was partially burnt down in +1808. This gigantic ruin is now covered in, and used as an historical +museum for war relics. + +Fredericia is a very important place. Here that part of the train which +contains the goods, luggage, and mails, as well as the first-class +passenger carriages for Copenhagen, is shunted on to the large steam +ferry-boat waiting to receive it. This carries it across the smiling +waters of the Little Belt. A fresh engine then takes it across the +island of Funen to the steam-ferry waiting to carry it across the Great +Belt to Korsör, on the shores of Seeland, when a locomotive takes the +train to Copenhagen in the ordinary way. These steam-ferries are +peculiar to Denmark, and are specially built and equipped for this work. +Danish enterprise overcomes the difficulties of transport through a +kingdom of islands by these ferries. + +Fredericia is an old fortified town with mighty city walls, which make a +fine promenade for the citizens, giving them a charming view of the +Little Belt's sunlit waters. In this town the Danes won a glorious +victory over the Prussians in 1849. + +Vejle is one of the most picturesque places on the east coast. Along the +Vejlefjord the tall, straight pines of Jutland are reflected in the +cool, still depths of blue water, and the tiniest of puffing steamers +will carry you over to Munkebjerg. The fascinating and famous Munkebjerg +Forest is very beautiful--a romantic place in which the youthful lovers +of Denmark delight. These glorious beech woods extend for miles, the +trees sloping down to the water's edge from a high ridge, whence you +have a magnificent view of the glittering fjord. Most inviting are +these cool green shades on a hot summer's day, but when clothed in the +glowing tints of autumn they present to the eye a feast of gorgeous +colour. A golden and warm brown carpet of crisp, crackling leaves +underfoot, the lap of the fjord as a steamer ploughs along, sending the +water hissing through the bowing reeds which fringe the bank, make the +soothing sounds which fall on lovers' ears as they wander through these +pleasant glades. + +[Illustration: HARVEST TIME.] + +In winter this forest is left to the snow and hoarfrost, and cold, cairn +beauty holds it fast for many days. + +The pretty hotel of Munkebjerg, standing on the summit of the ridge, +which you espy through a clearing in the trees, is reached by some +scores of steps from the landing-stage. Patient "Moses," the hotel +luggage-carrier, awaits the prospective guests at the pier. This +handsome brown donkey is quite a character, and mounts gaily his own +private zigzag path leading to the hotel when heavily laden. His +dejection, however, when returning with empty panniers, is accounted for +by the circumstance of "No load, no carrot!" at the end of the climb. + +Grejsdal is another beautiful spot inland from the fjord, past which the +primitive local train takes us to Jellinge. In this quaint upland +village stand the two great barrows, the reputed graves of King Gorm and +Queen Thyra, his wife, the great-grandparents of Canute the Great, the +Danish King who ruled over England for twenty years. A beautiful Norman +church stands between these barrows, and two massive Runic stones tell +that "Harald the King commanded this memorial to be raised to Gorm, his +Father, and Thyra, his Mother: the Harald who conquered the whole of +Denmark and Norway, and Christianized the Danes." Steps lead to the top +of these grassy barrows, and so large are they that over a thousand men +can stand at the top. The village children use them as a playground +occasionally. + +Skanderborg, which is prettily situated on a lake, is a celebrated town. +Here a famous siege took place, in which the valiant Niels Ebbesen fell, +after freeing his country from the tyrannical rule of the German Count +Gert. + +Aarhus, the capital of Jutland, is the second oldest town in Denmark. +Its interesting cathedral is the longest in the kingdom, and was built +in the twelfth century. The town possesses a magnificent harbour, on the +Cattegat, the shores of which make a pleasant promenade. + +Randers is a pretty place, with many quaint thatched houses belonging to +the sixteenth, seventeenth, and eighteenth centuries. The Gudenaa, +Denmark's only river, skirts the town. This river is narrow and +slow-moving, as there are no heights to give it force. + +Hobro, situated on a fjord, wears an air of seclusion, lying as it does +far away from the railway-station. A sail on this fjord will bring us to +Mariager, the smallest town in Denmark. Renowned are the magnificent +beech-woods and ancient abbey of this tiny town. In the surroundings we +have a panoramic view of typical Jutish scenery--a charming landscape in +the sunset glow, forest, fjord, farmsteads, and moor affording a rich +variety of still life. + +Aalborg, the delightful old market town on the Limfjord, is fascinating, +especially at night, when its myriad lamps throw long shafts of light +across the water. Scattered through the town are many old half-timbered +houses. These beautiful buildings, with their cream-coloured rough-cast +walls, oak beams, richly carved overhanging eaves, and soft-red tiled +roofs, show little evidence of the ravages of time. The most famous of +these houses was built, in the seventeenth century, by Jens Bang, an +apothecary. The chemist's shop occupies the large ground-floor room, the +windows of which have appropriate key-stones. On one is carved a man's +head with swollen face, another with a lolling tongue, and similar +grotesques. + +To be an idler and watch the traffic going to and fro over the pontoon +bridge which spans the Limfjord is a delightful way of passing the time. +Warmed by the sun and fanned by the breezes which blow along the fjord, +you may be amused and interested for hours by the life that streams past +you. Occasionally the traffic is impeded by the bridge being opened to +allow the ships to pass through. Small vessels can in this way save time +and avoid the danger of rounding the north point of Jutland. If you +look at your map you will see that this fjord cuts through Jutland, thus +making a short passage from the Cattegat to the North Sea. + +Jutland north of the Limfjord is called Vendsyssel. Curious effects of +mirage may be seen in summer-time in the extensive "Vildmose"[7] of this +district. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND--II + + +As we pass through Vendsyssel homely farmsteads and windmills add a +charm to the landscape, while tethered kine and sportive goats complete +a picture of rural life. + +When we arrive at Frederikshavn we come to the end of the State railway. +This terminus lies close to the port, which is an important place of +call for the large passenger and cargo steamers bound for Norway and +other countries, as well as being a refuge for the fishing-fleet. + +A slow-moving local train takes us across the sandy wastes to Skagen, a +straggling village, with the dignity of royal borough, bestowed upon it +by Queen Margaret, in the fourteenth century, as a reward to the brave +fishermen who saved from shipwreck some of her kins-folk. Skagen is a +picturesque and interesting place, the home of many artists, as well as +a noted seaside resort. + +Bröndum's Hotel, a celebrated hostelry, where the majority of visitors +and artists stay, is a delightfully comfortable, homely dwelling. The +dining-room, adorned with many specimens of the artists' work, is a +unique and interesting picture-gallery. + +On the outskirts of the town the white tower of the old church of Skagen +may be seen peeping over the sand-dunes. This "stepped" tower, with its +red-tiled, saddle-back roof, forms a striking feature in this weird and +lonely landscape. The church itself is buried beneath the sand, leaving +only the tower to mark the place that is called the "Pompeii of +Denmark," sand, not lava, being answerable for this entombment. It is +said that the village which surrounded the church was buried by a +sandstorm in the fourteenth century. This scene of desolation, on a +windy day, when the "sand fiend" revels and riots, is best left to the +booming surf and avoided by those who do not wish to be blinded. + +To the south of Skagen lie other curious phenomena created by this +"Storm King." The "Raabjerg Miler" are vast and characteristic dunes of +powdery sand in long ridges, like huge waves petrified in the very act +of turning over! In the neighbouring quicksands trees have been planted, +but refuse to grow. + +Viborg, the old capital of Jutland, possesses an historically +interesting cathedral. In the crypt stands the tomb of King Eric +Glipping, as well as those of other monarchs. The interior of the +cathedral is decorated with fine frescoes by modern artists. + +As we journey to Silkeborg we pass through the vast heathland, "Alhede," +and are impressed by the plodding perseverance of the heath-folk. The +marvellous enterprise of the Danes who started and have so successfully +carried out the cultivation of these barren tracts of land deserves +admiration. The convicts are employed in this work, planting, trenching, +and digging, making this waste land ready for the farmer. These men have +a cap with a visor-like mask, which can be pulled over the face at will. +This shields the face from the cold blasts so prevalent on these moors; +also, it prevents the prying eyes of strangers or fellow-workers. + +Many baby forests are being nursed into sturdy growth, as a protection +for farm-lands from the sand and wind storms. + +This monotonous-looking heath is not without beauty; indeed, it has a +melancholy charm for those who dwell on it. The children love it when +the heather is in bloom, and spend happy days gathering berries from out +of the gorgeous purple carpet. The great stacks of peat drying in the +sun denote that this is the principal fuel of the moor-folk. + +From Silkeborg we start to see the Himmelbjerget, the mountain of this +flat country. It rises to a height of five hundred feet, being the +highest point in Denmark. + +'Tis the joy and pride of the Danes, who select this mountain and lake +district before all others for their honeymoons! + +A curious paddle-boat, worked by hand, or a small motor-boat will take +us over the lake to the foot of Himmelbjerget. Our motor-boat, with +fussy throb, carries us away down the narrow river which opens into the +lake. The life on the banks of the river is very interesting. As we sail +past the pretty villas, with background of cool, green beech-woods, we +notice that a Danish garden must always have a summer-house to make it +complete. In these garden-rooms the Danes take all their meals in +summer-time. The drooping branches of the beech-trees dip, swish, and +bend to the swirl of water created by our boat, which makes miniature +waves leap and run along the bank in a playful way. How delightfully +peaceful the surrounding landscape is as we skim over the silvery lake +and then land! The climbing of this mountain does not take long. There +is a splendid view from the top of Himmelbjerget, for the country lies +spread out like a map before us. This lake district is very beautiful, +and when the ling is in full bloom, the heather and forest-clad hills +encircling the lakes blaze with colour. + +At Silkeborg the River Gudenaa flows through the lakes Kundsö and Julsö, +becoming navigable, but it is only used by small boats and barges for +transporting wood from the forests. The termination "Sö" means lake, +while "Aä" means stream. Steen Steensen Blicher, the poet of Jutland, +has described this scenery, which he loved so much, quite charmingly in +some of his lyrical poems. He sings: + + "The Danes have their homes where the fair beeches grow, + By shores where forget-me-nots cluster." + +This poet did much to encourage the home industries of the +moor-dwellers, being in sympathy with them, as well as with their lonely +moorlands. + +The old-time moor-dwellers' habitations have become an interesting +museum in Herning. This little mid-Jutland town is in the centre of the +moors, so its museum contains a unique collection from the homes of +these sturdy peasants. The amount of delicate needlework these lonely, +thrifty folks accomplished in the long winter days is surprising. This +"Hedebo" needlework is the finest stitchery you can well imagine, +wrought on home-spun linen with flaxen thread. Such marvellous patterns +and intricate designs! Little wonder that the best examples are +treasured by the nation. The men of the family wore a white linen smock +for weddings and great occasions. So thickly are these overwrought with +needlework that they will stand alone, and seem to have a woman's +lifetime spent upon them. Needless to say, these family garments were +handed down as heirlooms from father to son. + +Knitting, weaving, the making of Jyde pottery and wooden shoes (which +all wear), are among the other industries of these people. + +As we journey through Skjern and down the west coast to Esbjerg, the end +of our journey, we notice the picturesque attire of the field-workers. +An old shepherd, with vivid blue shirt and sleeveless brown coat, with +white straggling locks streaming over his shoulders, tends his few +sheep. This clever old man is doing three things at once--minding his +sheep, smoking his pipe, and knitting a stocking. The Danes are great +knitters, men and women being equally good at it. Many girls are +working in the fields, their various coloured garments making bright +specks on the landscape. Occasionally a bullock-cart slowly drags its +way across the field-road, laden with clattering milk-cans. We pass +flourishing farmsteads, with storks' nests on the roofs. The +father-stork, standing on one leg, keeping guard over his young, looks +pensively out over the moors, thinking, no doubt, that soon it will not +be worth his while to come all the way from Egypt to find frogs in the +marshes! For the indefatigable Dalgas has roused the dilatory Danes to +such good purpose that soon the marshes and waste lands of Jutland will +be no more. + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +THE PEOPLE'S AMUSEMENTS + + +"Have you been in Tivoli?" is the first question a Copenhagener would +ask you on your arrival in the gay capital. If not, your Danish friend +will carry you off to see these beautiful pleasure-gardens. Tivoli is +for all classes, and is the most popular place of amusement in Denmark. +This delightful summer resort is the place of all others in which to +study the jovial side of the Danish character. Even the King and his +royal visitors occasionally pay visits, incognito, to these fascinating +gardens, taking their "sixpenn'orth of fun" with the people, whose good +manners would never allow them to take the slightest notice of their +monarch when he is enjoying himself in this way. To children Tivoli is +the ideal Sunday treat. Every taste is catered for at Tivoli, and the +Saturday classical concerts have become famous, for one of the Danes' +chief pleasures is good music. Tivoli becomes fairyland when illuminated +with its myriad lights outlining the buildings and gleaming through the +trees. The light-hearted gaiety of the Dane is very infectious, and the +stranger is irresistibly caught by it. The atmosphere of unalloyed +merriment which pervades when tables are spread under the trees for the +alfresco supper is distinctly exhilarating. These gardens have +amusements for the frivolous also, such as switchbacks, pantomimes of +the "Punch and Judy" kind, and frequently firework displays, which last +entertainment generally concludes the evening. + +The Royal Theatre in Copenhagen is a national school of patriotism, and +the healthy spirit of its plays has an ennobling effect on the people. +Everything is Danish here, and Denmark is the only small nation in +Europe which has successfully founded a national dramatic art. The +"Molière of the North," Ludwig Holberg, was the father of the Danish +drama, and the first to make the people realize the beauty of their own +language. This gifted Dane was a great comedy-writer, and had the +faculty of making his fellows see the comic side of their follies. + +The "Royal Ballet" played at this theatre is quite distinctive. +Bournonville, its creator, was a poet who expressed himself in motion +instead of words, and these "dumb poems" appeal strongly to the +Scandinavian character. This poet aimed at something more than +spectacular effects upon the people: his art consisted in presenting +instructive tableaux, which, while holding the attention of his +audience, taught them their traditional history. The delicate daintiness +of the Danish ballet everyone must appreciate. The exquisite and +intricate dances, together with the magnificent tableaux, are +accompanied by wild and magical music of Danish composition. +Bournonville ballets represent scenes from classical mythology, as well +as from ancient Scandinavian history, and the Danish people are much +attached to this Northern composer of ballet. "Ei blot til Lyst"--Not +only for pleasure--is the motto over this National Theatre door, and it +is in the Ballet School here that the young Danes begin their training. +These young folk take great pleasure in learning the beautiful dances, +as well as in the operatic and dramatic work which they have to study, +for they must serve a certain period in this, as in any other +profession. + +Another place of amusement which gives pleasure to many of the poorer +people is the Working Men's Theatre. Actors, musicians, as well as the +entire management, are all of the working classes, who are trained in +the evenings by professionals. The result is quite wonderful, and proves +the pleasure and interest these working people take in their tuition, +and how their artistic abilities are developed by it. On Sundays, and +occasionally in the week, a performance is given, when the working +classes crowd into the theatre to see their fellows perform. This +entertainment only costs sixpence for good seats, drama and farce being +the representations most appreciated. Notwithstanding that smoking is +prohibited during the performances--a rule which you would think no Dane +could tolerate, being seldom seen without pipe or cigarette--it is a +great success, and denotes that their love of the play is greater than +their pleasure in the weed. + + + + +CHAPTER X + +FARM LIFE--BUTTER-MAKING--"HEDESELSKABET" + + +Farming in Denmark is the most important industry of the kingdom, and +gives employment to half the nation. The peasant is very enlightened and +advanced in his methods; agricultural and farm products form the +principal exports of the country. England takes the greater part of this +produce. Three or four times a week the ships leave Esbjerg--this port +being the only Danish one not blocked by ice during some part of the +winter--for the English ports, laden with butter, bacon and eggs for the +London market. Now, why can the Danish farmer, whose land is poorer and +his climate more severe than ours, produce so much? Education, +co-operation and the help given by the State to small farmers lay the +foundation, so the Danes will tell you, of the farmer's prosperity. The +thrift and industry of the peasant farmer is quite astonishing. He is +able to bring up a large, well-educated family and live comfortably on +seven or eight acres of land; whereas in England we are told that three +acres will not keep a cow! The Danish farmer makes six acres keep two +cows, many chickens, some pigs, himself, wife and family, and there is +never any evidence of poverty on these small farms--quite the reverse. +The farmer is strong and wiry, his wife fine and buxom, and his children +sturdy, well-cared-for little urchins. All, however, must work--and work +very hard--both with head and hands to produce this splendid result. The +Danish farmer grows a rapid rotation of crops for his animals, manuring +heavily after each crop, and never allowing his land to lie fallow as we +do. On these small farms there is practically no grass-land; hedges and +fences are unnecessary as the animals are always tethered when grazing. +Omission of hedges is more economical also, making it possible to +cultivate every inch of land. There is nothing wasted on a Danish farm. +Many large flourishing farms also exist in Denmark, with acres of both +meadow and arable land, just as in England; but the peasant farmer is +the interesting example of the Danish system of legislation. The +Government helps this small holder by every means in its power to become +a freehold farmer should he be willing and thrifty enough to try. + +The typical Danish farmstead is built in the form of a square, three +sides of which are occupied by the sheds for the animals, the fourth +side being the dwelling-house, which is generally connected with the +sheds by a covered passage--a cosy arrangement for all, as in bad +weather the farmer need not go outside to attend to the animals, while +the latter benefit by the warmth from the farmhouse. + +The Danes would never speak crossly to a cow or call her by other than +her own name, which is generally printed on a board over her stall. The +cow, in fact, is the domestic pet of the Danish farm. In the winter +these animals are taken for a daily walk wearing their winter coats of +jute! + +These small farmers realize that "Union is Strength," and have built up +for themselves a marvellous system of co-operation. This brings the +market literally to the door of the peasant farmer. Carts collect the +farm produce daily and transport it to the nearest factories belonging +to this co-operation of farmers. At these factories the milk is turned +into delicious butter, the eggs are examined by electric light, and "Mr. +Pig" quickly changes his name to Bacon! These three commodities form the +most remunerative products of the farm. + +The Danish farmer is a strong believer in education, thanks to the +Grundtvig High-schools. Bishop Grundtvig started these schools for the +benefit of the sons and daughters of yeomen. When winter comes, and +outside farm-work is at a standstill, the farmer and his family attend +these schools to learn new methods of farming and dairy-work. The +farmer's children are early taught to take a hand and interest +themselves in the farm-work. The son, when school is over for the day, +must help to feed the live-stock, do a bit of spade-work or +carpentering, and perhaps a little book-keeping before bedtime. These +practical lessons develop in the lad a love of farm-work and a pride +in helping on the family resources. + +[Illustration: VAGT-PARADEN. LIFEGUARDS DRAWING UP OUTSIDE THE PALACE.] + +Butter-making is an interesting sight at the splendidly equipped +steam-factories, and we all know that Danish butter is renowned for its +excellence. When the milk is weighed and tested it runs into a large +receiver, thence to the separator; from there the cream flows into the +scalder, and pours over the ice frame in a rich cool stream into a +wooden vat. + +Meanwhile the separated milk has returned through a pipe to the waiting +milk-cans and is given back to the farmer, who utilizes it to feed his +calves and pigs. The cream leaves the vat for the churn through a wooden +channel, and when full the churn is set in motion. This combined churn +and butter-worker completes the process of butter-making, and when the +golden mass is taken out it is ready to be packed for the English +market. The milk, on being received at the factory, is weighed and paid +for according to weight. It takes 25 lbs. of milk to make 1 lb. of +butter. + +"Hedeselskabet" (Heath Company) is a wonderful society started by +Captain Dalgas and other patriotic Danes, in 1866, for the purpose of +reclaiming the moors and bogs. The cultivation of these lands seemed +impossible to most people, but these few enthusiasts with great energy +and perseverance set to work to overcome Nature's obstacles. These +pioneers have been so successful in their efforts that in less than half +a century three thousand square miles of useless land in Jutland have +been made fertile. Trees have been planted and carefully nursed into +good plantations, besides many other improvements made for the benefit +of the agriculturalist and the country generally. All along the sandy +wastes of the west coast of Jutland esparto grass has been sown to bind +the shifting sand, which is a danger to the crops when the terrible +"Skaj"[8] blows across the land with unbroken force. Thanks to the +untiring energies of this society for reclaiming the moors, Denmark has +gained land almost equal to that she lost in her beautiful province of +Schleswig, annexed by Prussia in the unequal war of 1864. + +In the town of Aarhus, the capital of Jutland, a handsome monument has +been raised to the memory of Captain Dalgas, the father of the movement +for reclaiming the moors, by his grateful countrymen. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +SOLDIERS AND SAILORS + + +Every Danish boy knows he must undergo a period of training as a soldier +or sailor when he reaches his twentieth year. This is because Denmark is +small and poor, and could not maintain a standing army, so her citizens +must be able to defend her when called upon. This service is required +from all, noble and peasant alike, physical weakness alone bringing +exemption. This six or twelve months' training means a hard rough time +for young men accustomed to a refined home, but it has a pleasant side +in the sympathy and friendship of comrades. The generality of conscripts +do not love their soldiering days, and look upon them as something to be +got over, like the measles! "Jens" is the Danish equivalent for "Tommy +Atkins," and "Hans" is the "Jack Tar" of Denmark. + +To see the daily parade of Life Guards before the royal palace is to see +a splendid military display. This parade the King and young Princes +often watch from the palace windows. The crowd gathers to enjoy the +spectacle of "Vagt-Paraden" (changing the guard) in the palace square, +when the standard is taken from the Guard House and borne, to the +stirring strains of the "Fane-Marsch," in front of the palace. As the +standard-bearer marches he throws forward his legs from the hips in the +most curious stiff way. This old elaborate German step is a striking +feature of the daily parade. When the guard is changed and the band has +played a selection of music, the same ceremony is repeated, and the +standard deposited again in its resting-place. Then the released guard, +headed by the band playing merry tunes, march back to their barracks +followed by an enthusiastic crowd. The fresh guard take their place +beside the sentry-boxes, which stand around the palace square. These are +tall red pillar-boxes curiously like giant letter-boxes! + +In the Schleswig-Holstein War of 1864, the last war Denmark was engaged +in, many Danish soldiers proved their valour and heroism in the unequal +encounter. These gallant men were buried in Schleswig, and as the Danish +colours were forbidden by the tyrannical Prussian conquerors, the loyal +Schleswigers hit upon a pretty way of keeping the memory of their heroes +green. The "Danebrog" was designed by a cross of white flowers on a +ground of red geraniums over each grave. In this way the kinsmen of +these patriots covered their last resting-place with the colours of +their glorious national flag, under which they fell in Denmark's +defence. In Holmens Kirke, Copenhagen, many heroes lie buried. This +building, originally an iron foundry, was converted into a church by +the royal builder, Christian IV., for the dockyard men to worship in, +and it is still used by them. This King's motto, "Piety strengthens the +realm," stands boldly over the entrance of this mortuary chapel for +famous Danes. + +As Denmark is a kingdom composed mainly of islands and peninsula, she +has a long line of sea-board to defend, and a good navy is essential for +her safety. The Danes being descendants of Vikings and sea-rovers, you +may be sure that their navy is well maintained. + +A boy who chooses the navy as his profession must leave school at the +age of fourteen years, and go for nine months' training on a warship as +a voluntary apprentice. At the end of this time he knows whether he +likes the profession well enough to join it--if so, two years' coaching +is given to enable him to pass the necessary examinations for entering +the Naval Academy. Here he is trained for four years, spending the four +summer months of each year in cruising. This Naval Academy, where +officers are trained, is a fine old institution, and prides itself on +the record of the famous men it has turned out. The present King of +Greece, and many other members of the Danish Royal Family, have also +been trained at this Academy. The Academy course is expensive, and as +promotion is slow, and pay small in the navy, the Lieutenants are +sometimes permitted to captain a ship in the merchant service for three +years. This they are glad to do, as it increases their pay and +knowledge of navigation. Denmark being too small to maintain a large +cruising fleet, these officers would have little opportunity of proving +their sailing powers without this arrangement. + +When cruising, the high spirits of the young cadets sometimes lead them +into mischief, thereby bringing trouble upon their heads. I knew a naval +captain who hit upon a very original and effective form of punishment +for wrong-doers. The cadet cap is a blue "tam-o'-shanter" with the usual +woolly bob of the same colour on the top. "The naughty boys shall have a +red bob," said the "Kaptejn," "and thus be branded for misdemeanour!" +The culprits disliked this badge intensely, I imagine mostly because +their comrades derisively admired the colour which made them +conspicuous. One day royalties were being shown over the ship, and a +young Princess asked "why some of the boys had those pretty red tufts on +their caps?" You may imagine the chagrin and confusion of the culprits; +scarlet faces and crimson tufts told their own tale! The boys, you may +be sure, thought twice in future before risking another penitential week +of branding and ridicule for breach of discipline. + +In Copenhagen one of the discarded warships is used as public restaurant +and training-school for ships' cooks. Here the sailor-men are taught +every branch of cooking and kitchen-work. When trained, these cooks are +employed on the merchant-ships, as well as on the men-of-war. + +Some interesting stories are told of the naval heroes of Denmark which +you will like to hear. Peder Tordenskjold is the Nelson of Denmark. This +man, besides being a great Admiral, was a most genial character, and had +a striking and original personality. Many true tales are told about this +hero which the young Danish lads never tire of hearing. There is a +favourite one which tells of the ingenious way by which he discovered +the weak points in his enemy's stronghold. Dressing himself as a +fisherman, he accompanied two other fishers in a little rowing-boat +laden with fish to the enemy's shores. Taking a basket of fish, he +mounted the hill to the fort, saying he had brought the fish for the +commandant. He was allowed to pass in to the fort with his fish, and, +pretending stupidity, kept losing his way--gaining knowledge +thereby--till he reached the commandant's residence. Gaining permission +from the latter to supply the garrison with fish, he inquired for how +many men he should provide. "Let me see," said the commandant, half to +himself, "a hundred guns--two hundred men; you may bring fish for a +hundred men." Tordenskjold then left the fort, having obtained all the +information he required, and returned to his boat. At this moment the +captain of one of the ships lying in the bay arrived on shore, and the +pretended fisherman at once accosted him, asking permission to serve his +men with fish. This being granted, he at once rowed to the ship, where +he soon disposed of his fish, and conversing with the sailors, he +gained the information that in two days' time there would be a great +festivity held on shore, at which most of them would be present. With +this valuable knowledge he returned to his own shore from the Swedish +coast, and laid plans which gave Denmark a victory and proved fatal to +the Swedes. In Holmens Kirke, where this hero lies buried, a splendid +black marble tomb has been erected to his memory by King Frederik IV. +Near by lies another naval hero, Niels Juel, whose gilt and copper +coffin is surmounted by a tablet which tells of his brave deeds. + +Captain Hvitfeldt, the hero of Kjöge Bay, blew up his ship with three +hundred men to save the Danish fleet from destruction. In the war of +1710, between Denmark and Sweden, this captain's ship, the _Danebrog_, +took fire. To save the ships which were being driven by the wind towards +his burning vessel, he and his gallant crew sacrificed their lives. + +Herluf Trolle was a Danish noble and a famous Admiral, who left all his +wealth to found a school for orphans. His noble wife, Fru Bergitta, was +greatly distressed that the Admiral's will could not be found, as she +was most anxious that his wishes, which were also her own, with regard +to the school, should be carried into effect. The Admiral's relatives +would inherit the property, and were already clamouring for it, when one +night Fru Bergitta had a dream. She dreamed she saw someone walking +round her husband's writing-table, attentively inspecting the legs. +These she examined on awakening, and found one to be hollow. +Discovering a secret spring, she pressed it, and beheld the will lying +in the hollow space. So Herluf Trolle's school was founded, and although +this brave old Admiral died from wounds received in battle centuries +ago, yet his school is considered to be one of the best at the present +day. + +[Illustration: SUNDAY IN THE ISLAND OF LÆSÖ.] + + + + +CHAPTER XII + +THE PEOPLE OF THE ISLES + + +One of the most storm-swept and barren of Denmark's many islands is the +island of Fanö. Lying, as it does, exposed to the full force of the +North Sea gales, it yet serves to protect the harbour of Esbjerg from +these storms. It is eight miles long, and three miles at its broadest +part. A trim little steamer will carry you across from Esbjerg to +Nordby--the fishing town on the east coast of Fanö--in twenty minutes. +Nordby is both quaint and picturesque. The low thatched houses, with +rough-cast, whitewashed walls, nestle close to each other for shelter +from the winds. + +The Fanö women have a practical but peculiar costume; the +thickly-pleated skirt has a bright-coloured border, while the +close-fitting bodice is adorned with embroidery, and pretty antique +buttons. A folded cotton kerchief and accordion-pleated apron give a +daintiness to the whole dress. The head-dress, however, gives the most +singular finish to the costume. A dark, checked-bordered handkerchief +tied over a stiff, cambric frame, entirely envelops the head. The four +ends of this handkerchief are tied in an odd way, two being left +upstanding like rabbits' ears! This striking head-dress gives the Fanö +wife a fantastic appearance. When the good-natured, smiling faces of +these women are hidden behind a mask, the combination of dress and mask +makes them awesome-looking folk. The men of the island are nearly all +fishermen; the women are the farmers, and it is to protect their faces +from the blinding sand-storms, while working on the land, that these +masks are worn. This mask obliterates all comeliness, for only the eyes +peep out from the weird face-protector. + +This island of heath, dune, and quicksand is wild and romantic. The +cultivated fields are protected by sand-hills, and belts of stunted, +wind-swept trees that afford some slight protection to the crops. The +island belongs to the people, who cultivate it assiduously. The courage +and perseverance of these women agriculturalists is rewarded by fair +crops, notwithstanding an adverse climate. + +At the south end of the island, far away from any dwelling, is the +interesting "Fugleköjerne,"[9] where three or four hundred wild-duck are +taken in a day during the season. Decoy-ducks are used for this purpose. + +The west side of the island is the most fashionable watering-place in +Denmark. Large hotels and pretty villas line the shore, and here the +well-to-do Danes inhale bracing sea-breezes. + +On a windy day this western shore is not amusing. Clouds of blinding +sand whirl high in the air, while the booming surf rolls and plunges on +the beach with deafening roar, and makes rank and fashion fly to shelter +in hotel or villa till the storm is over. Visitors in summer and storms +in winter have it all their own way on this west coast--the people of +Fanö trouble it not. + +Bornholm, situated in the middle of the Baltic, is both beautiful and +fertile. Its products are very valuable to Denmark. From here comes the +clay of which the exquisite Copenhagen porcelain is made. Here, too, the +granite for building the country's defences and docks is quarried. I +fancy if you were to ask a young Dane what Bornholm is most famed for he +would say, "Turkeys," for the island supplies the Copenhagen market with +these birds. + +The chief town, Rönne, is charming, with its many low-roofed houses, +which overlook the Baltic. It is noted for its terra-cotta ware, clocks, +and Museum of Antiquities. + +Most of the towns are upon the coast. Four singular round churches, +built of granite, were formerly used as places of refuge for the people +when beset by pirates. These "Rundkirker" are peculiar to Bornholm. + +A high festival is celebrated every year on the anniversary of the day +when the inhabitants succeeded in throwing off the Swedish yoke, which +they had borne for a short time in the seventeenth century with +resentment. + +Hammershus Castle, on the northern extremity of Bornholm, was built in +the thirteenth century. There is a sad tale connected with this romantic +castle, about a Danish noble and his wife. This noble, Corfitz Ulfeldt, +was imprisoned there for treason. His beautiful wife, Eleonora, the +favourite daughter of Christian IV., accompanied him, preferring +imprisonment with him to liberty without him. After the Count died, +Eleonora, who had a mortal enemy in Queen Caroline Amalia, was sent by +the latter to the "Blaataarn"[10] of Slotsholmen, Copenhagen, and there +incarcerated for twenty-two years. The illustrious Eleonora was only +liberated on the death of the vindictive Queen, but the long years of +captivity--without reason--had wrecked her life. + +Læsö is a small island in the Cattegat, the inhabitants of which are +mainly farmers and fishermen, and the old women wear a particular +costume for Sunday, which is called the "church costume." + +The people of Amager are great market-gardeners. They are of Dutch +extraction. Christian II., after flying from his country, took refuge in +Holland, and some of the Dutch helped him in trying to regain his +throne. For this service he gave his Dutch followers the island of +Amager. The descendants of these Dutch people still retain their old +customs and characteristics. Clattering about in wooden shoes, the old +women, in quaint costume, may be seen driving their geese down the +picturesque streets to the meadows. Besides being market-gardeners and +florists, these Amager folk rear and fatten the geese for the Christmas +market. + +The natural beauty of the island of Möen is striking, and unlike the +rest of Denmark. "Möen's Klint" are great, jagged white cliffs rising +abruptly from the sea. Enchanting beech-woods thickly crown the summit, +giving distinctive and unusual beauty to it. From Sommerspiret, the +highest point, we have an extensive view over the Østersöen and Köjge +Bay, where the famous victory over the Swedes was won by Niels Juel in +1677. + +In Denmark the town-crier beats a drum to draw attention to the notice +he is about to give. + +Danish postmen present a gorgeous appearance, in red coats, with smart +cloaks of the same brilliant hue for winter wear. These and the bright +yellow mail-vans, which they drive sometimes, arrest attention, and give +importance to the carriers of His Majesty's mails. + +In many of the houses the "Forhöjning" is still used. This is a raised +platform close to the window, on which the lady of the house sits to do +her embroidery. While she is here she can follow all that goes on in the +street below by an ingenious arrangement of oblique convex mirrors fixed +to the outside of the window, and reflecting the life in the streets +both ways. + +The numerous pretty articles made of amber, which adorn the ladies' +dressing-tables, and of which beads and ornaments for the girls are +composed, are of local manufacture, amber being found in quantities on +the west coast of Jutland. + +In the islands of Funen and Seeland there are many grand old +manor-houses belonging to the nobility, whose fine estates give +employment to many peasants. A story is told of a certain noble, +Christian Barnekow by name, who saved his King, Christian IV., by his +heroic self-sacrifice. The King had lost his horse, and was on the point +of being killed or made prisoner when Barnekow came to his rescue. +Giving the King his own horse, he said, "I give my horse to my King, my +life to the enemy, and my soul to God." A street in Copenhagen is called +after this brave nobleman "Kristenbernikovstrade." + +It is characteristic of the Danes to run words into each other, and +streets in Denmark often have prodigiously long names. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +FISHERMEN AT HOME AND AFLOAT + + +The class of people most lauded by their own and other nations is that +of the brave and hardy fishermen of Denmark. These men are always +willing to man the life-boat and to risk their lives to save those in +peril on the dangerous coast of Jutland. Although hundreds of ships are +wrecked on this dreaded "Jernkyst" (iron coast), their crews are +invariably saved by these courageous men. The whole length of the west +coast of Jutland is bleak and exposed to the storms and fogs of the +North Sea. Not one single harbour of refuge can be found between Esbjerg +and the Skaw. Dangerous sandbanks and massive cliffs guard the coast, +making navigation both difficult and hazardous. All along this perilous +coast life-saving apparatus of the newest and best type is stored in the +life-boat houses placed at intervals close to the seashore. On stormy +nights the watching sentinels summon by telephone the fishermen of the +tiny hamlets near. At sound of a rocket the distressful cry, "A wreck, a +wreck!" runs over the telephone, and immediately brave hearts and hands +are putting off to the rescue, while trembling women anxiously wait +their husbands' return with warm restoratives for the saved. These +fishermen's wives are brave too, for it is anxious work waiting and +watching. It is not to be wondered at that this merciless and cruel +coast is dreaded by all seamen. How thankful they must feel when they +see the great lighthouse at Grenen--the northernmost point of +Jutland--and can signal "All's well!" "Alt vel! passeret Grenen" flash +the lights across the water, and both passengers and crew breathe a +little more freely if it has been a stormy passage. Something like +eighty thousand vessels pass by this coast in a year, so you may be sure +the gallant fishermen of Denmark who live on the iron coast have plenty +of rescue work to do. + +[Illustration: SKAGEN FISHERMAN NEAR THE TOWER OF BURIED CHURCH.] + +You should see this coast on a stormy day, more especially at Grenen, +where those two mighty seas, the Skagerack and Cattegat, meet. When the +tempest rages here, far as eye can see a long ridge of seething, tossing +water denotes the meeting-place of the currents. The great "white +horses" in battle array fight, plunge, and roar--each striving for the +mastery which neither gains. This wrestling-match is a splendid +spectacle to those who are safe on shore, also to those at sea if the +day is clear, because they can then give the reef a wide berth. Tossing +spray is thrown high into the air and wind-borne to the shore, so even +at a distance from the waves you may have a salt shower-bath should you +be able to "keep your legs" against the fury of the gale. The screaming +gulls which fly around, dipping and rising, enjoying as only +"storm-birds" can the roar and tumult of these tempestuous waters, +enhance the fierce loneliness of the scene. This awe-inspiring +"Nature-barrier" saddens you--even while you exult in the madness of its +fury--when you think what it means on a foggy night to the poor mariner. +What a comfort for the seafarer to know that there is such a famous race +of fishermen here, willing and ready to man the life-boat and rescue +them from the angry, engulfing waters! You would never guess these seas +could be otherwise than kind when you enter their smiling depths for a +swim on a calm, sunny day. How gentle and invigorating they can be the +fishermen as well as the visitors know, and any morning you may see the +former returning from their daily dip with dripping heads and towels +along the shore. Somehow these fishermen are always picturesque. In the +summer evening, sitting or lying on the sunlit beach, smoking their +cutty-pipes and waiting for the time to launch their boats for the +fishing, they make an impressive picture. Kindly blue eyes and +weather-beaten faces look at you from under the sou'westers, while blue +jerseys, long sea-boots with curled-over tops and oil-skins, complete +the sea-going outfit. Fully equipped, they charm the eye of the most +fastidious, and it is little wonder that they have become subjects for +famous artists and poets. + +These fishermen are very devout, and before launching their boat they +all stand round it with clasped hands and bowed heads, offering up a +short, silent prayer for help and protection on these dangerous waters. +Then, pushing the boat out into the water, they jump in while it +floats--sea-boots getting wet in the process--and wave farewell to their +children on the shore, who cry in return "Farvel Fa'er!" + +Lars Kruse, the late captain of the life-boat at Skagen, has had a +beautiful monument raised to his memory, and his son will show you with +great pride the cups and medals he left behind as mementoes of his brave +deeds. These medals have been presented by many different nations whose +sea-farers have been saved by him. Amongst these is one given by Queen +Victoria. + +Captain Larsen, a well-known mariner, who, on retiring from his post on +one of the light-ships, settled at Old Skagen, has left a unique +collection to the village. This now constitutes a museum of exquisitely +carved furniture, much of it inlaid with ivory, marbles and metals in +dainty designs, all made by this old sailor during the last twelve years +of his life--a wonderful record of industry. Old Skagen is a quaint +fisher-village, nestling behind the sand-dunes, trying to shelter itself +from the sand and sea-storms to which these shores are subjected. + +Many of these fisher-folk are farmers also, tilling and cultivating the +heath-lands which lie beyond the village. The fisher cottages are quite +pretty, with thatched or red-tiled roofs, white or buff rough-cast +walls, green painted doors and windows, with black painted foundations +which protect them from the sand. Bright flowering plants in the windows +and the neat and clean appearance of the whole betoken the joy and +comfort that reigns in the fisherman's home. Many household duties are +performed at the cottage door in the sandy enclosure surrounding the +little homestead. Here the old men mend the nets, keeping a watchful eye +on the babies, while the women clean and salt the fish, hanging them up +in rows to dry in the sun. In these garden enclosures, also, many +quaintly pretty miniature houses may be seen erected on tall poles. +These are to encourage the starlings and other songsters to settle in +them, as there are no trees. Hen-roosts and outhouses are adorned with +the name-boards of wrecked boats washed up on the shore, while discarded +boats turned over and tarred make the roofs of these curious shelters +worthy of royal hens! + +The older fishermen have a safe and effective way of trawling from the +strand. Putting out in a small boat, taking their net with them, to +which a long rope is attached--the end of this being left in charge of +the fishermen on the shore--they row gaily over the water, paying out +the rope as they go. When the limit of this rope is reached, the men +drop their weighted net overboard and pull for the shore, bringing with +them another attached rope which is paid out till they reach the strand. +When they have landed and the boat is beached, half a dozen men or more +take hold of each rope--these are fastened to each side of the +submerged net--and begin hauling it to the shore. The straining muscles +of the men as they march up the beach with a strong, steady, overhand +pull on the rope denotes that this is heavy work. It is a grand sight! +As the net nears the shore the gleaming, glittering mass of fish can be +seen leaping and jumping in vain endeavour to escape from their prison, +only the smaller fry succeeding. At last the net with its silver load +reaches the shore with the noise as of a great wave breaking upon the +beach, which is caused by the efforts of the fish to gain their freedom. +The best fish are picked out and the others returned to the sea, while +the gulls swoop down with querulous cry and gobble all that float on the +surface of the water. These fishermen have a prejudice against skate, +and use it only for bait. + +St. Clement is the patron saint of Danish fishermen, and many of the +churches in the coast towns are dedicated to him. + +As the Cathedral of Aarhus is dedicated to St. Clement, the Skaw +fishermen have given an exquisite model of a ship to the church. This +ship is a perfect representation in miniature of a man-of-war. It was +made in Holland for Peter the Great, but the ship which carried it was +wrecked near Grenen, and the model was saved by the Skaw fishermen. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +YOUTHFUL DANES AT WORK AND PLAY + + +Denmark is renowned for its educational system and for its schools. +These schools are all under Government control, and meet the wants of +every class. The authorities are upheld by the parents, both being +determined there shall be no such thing as an ignoramus in Denmark, so +whether the children are educated at home or sent to school, they must +begin lessons at the age of seven. If they have a governess at home the +parents must give a guarantee to the authorities that the governess is +efficient and capable of giving the standard education to the children. +Should parents elect to take their children abroad during the school +term, they must notify their intention, undertaking that a teacher shall +accompany them and lessons continue while away. Shirking lessons is +quite an impossibility for little Danes, as everybody thinks that +education comes before all else, so parents do not encourage idleness or +extra holidays during the school year. + +School attendance is compulsory for all children between the ages of +seven and fourteen. The hours are not long nor wearisome, as the lessons +are arranged with a view to holding the attention of young minds during +the period of instruction. The classes are small, even in the free +schools, never more than thirty-five pupils to a teacher, and generally +less. The lesson lasts forty minutes, and then there is an interval for +play. The thorough education of the pupils for their future work in life +is considered, so lessons in writing, reading, and arithmetic, in the +Kommune schools, are varied by tailoring lessons for boys, and cookery +for girls, after they are ten years of age. At every school gymnastics +play an important part--pleasant lessons these are for all--but perhaps +the lesson the boys most delight in is their instruction in Slöyd. Each +lad has his carpenter's bench with necessary tools, and as we know every +boy is happy when making or marring with hammer and nails, I am sure you +will think these must be enviable lessons. I have seen some charming +models as well as useful things made by the boys--a perfect miniature +landau, complete in every detail, benches, bureaux, carts, tables, +chairs, besides many other serviceable articles. Besides this +pleasure-work at school, the boys, if they are farmers' sons, have +practical lessons at home by helping their father on the farm. The +authorities being anxious to help the farmer, they allow him to keep a +boy at home half the day for instruction in farm-work, but the other +half must be spent at school. The prizes at the municipal schools not +infrequently consist of clothes, watches, clocks, or tools, all of which +are worked for eagerly by the pupils. + +The boys and girls of Denmark begin early with gymnastic exercises, and +soon become sturdy little athletes from sheer love of the exhilarating +practice. All Danes pride themselves--and with good reason--on their +national athletic exercises. At the Olympic Games, held at the Stadium +in London, the Danish ladies carried away the gold medal by their fine +gymnastic display. This was a triumph with so many competitors in the +field. It is an amusing sight to see the Danes at a seaside resort +taking their morning swim; each one on leaving the water runs about on +the sun-warmed beach, and goes through a gymnastic display on his own +account, choosing the exercise he considers most calculated to warm and +invigorate him after his dip. The children require no second bidding to +follow father's example, and as they emerge from the water breathless, +pantingly join in the fun. Sons try to go one better than the father in +some gymnastic feat which the latter's stoutness renders impossible! The +merry peals of laughter which accompany the display speak eloquently of +the thorough enjoyment of all the bathers. + +Yachting in Denmark is not merely a pleasure for the rich, it is +inexpensive, so all classes and every man capable of sailing a boat can +enjoy it. In the summer-time the Sound and other waters seem alive with +the multitudes of white sails and speeding craft of all sizes. The +Øresund Week, as the Royal Yacht Club's regatta-week is called, is the +time of all others for yachtsmen to display their skill, and a gay +event in the Copenhagener's year. The pleasant waters of Denmark are +beloved of yachtsmen. Sailing round the wooded islands, you are +impressed by their picturesque beauty, which is seen to advantage from +the water. One is not surprised that this popular pastime comes first +with every Danish boy, who, whether swimming, rowing, or sailing, feels +perfectly at home on the water. Everybody cycles in Denmark. +Cycle-stands are provided outside every shop, station, office, and +college, so that you have no more difficulty in disposing of your cycle +than your umbrella. + +[Illustration: WINTER IN THE FOREST.] + +Football is a summer game here--spirited matches you would think +impossible at this season--but the Danes have them, and what is more, +they will inform you that they quite enjoy what appears to the spectator +a hot, fatiguing amusement. Cricket has few attractions for the Danish +lads, but that is because they cannot play, though their schoolmasters +and parents would have them try. All things English are much admired, +and when a Dane intends to do a thing he generally succeeds, so we can +only suppose he is too indifferent about cricket--although it is an +English game--to excel. + +Golf and hockey are also played, and "bandy"--_i.e._, hockey on the +ice--is a favourite winter sport. A "bandy" match is quite exciting to +watch. The players, armed with a wooden club, often find the ice a +difficulty when rushing after the solid rubber ball. This exhilarating +game is known in some parts of the world as "shinty." The Danes are +proficient skaters, and of late years an artificial ground for winter +sport of all kinds has been made in the Ulvedal, near Copenhagen. Here +they have "bandy" matches, ski-ing, and tobogganing, as well as other +winter games. Fox-hunting is unknown in Denmark, but frequently foxes +are included in the sportsman's bag when shooting. These are shot +because it is necessary to keep Mr. Reynard's depredations under +control. Trotting-matches are held on Sunday on the racecourse near +Charlottenlund, and horse-racing takes place too. Lawn-tennis and +croquet are very popular, but the latter is the favourite pastime of the +Danish ladies. + + + + +CHAPTER XV + +INGEBORG'S JOURNEY THROUGH SEELAND + + +Funen, the island which lies between the Great and Little Belts, is +known as the "Garden of Denmark," on account of its beauty and +fertility. In Odense, the capital, Ingeborg had lived happily all the +fifteen summers of her life. Now she was to have an unexpected treat. +Her grandfather intended taking her with him on the morrow to see some +of the historical places in Seeland. Ingeborg loved history, and had +given her grandfather much pleasure by the knowledge she displayed when +showing him over her own church, St. Knud's. This ancient Gothic Church +is the finest specimen of mediæval architecture in Denmark. St. Knud, +the grand-nephew of Canute the Great, was slain before the altar while +praying for his people. This brave King could have saved himself by +flight, but would not, lest his subjects should suffer at the hands of +his enemies. He was canonized by the Pope, and his brother built the +church to his memory. Besides being the shrine of St. Knud, this church +is the burial-place of King Christian II. and his Queen, as well as of +King Hans and his Consort. The beautiful altar-piece, given by Queen +Christina, is of the most exquisite workmanship, and took the artists +many years to execute. + +Ingeborg's excitement was great when she crossed from Nyborg. She +remembered that an army once crossed this water on foot, so severe was +the winter, and that ice-breakers are still used occasionally. The girl +wished it was winter as she watched for the first time the huge +paddle-wheels of the steam-ferry ploughing through the waters of the +Great Belt. By the time Korsör was reached, Herr Nielsen, her +grandfather, had made acquaintance with a student who was returning to +his college at Sorö, the town which they intended making their first +stopping-place. The student, whose name was Hans, informed them that he +lived at Ribe, a quaint old town of South Jutland, left very much to +memories and the storks, but possessing a fine twelfth-century +Cathedral. The college at Sorö was founded by Ludvig Holberg, the father +of Danish comedy, who left his fortune and library for that purpose. +Hans was proud of belonging to this college, as it had educated many men +of letters famous in Danish history. + +In the Cistercian Church of Sorö, Bishop Absalon, the founder of +Copenhagen, lies buried. It is said that this Bishop's spirit appears, +with menacing attitude, if anyone desecrates the place by irreverence. +Ludvig Holberg is also buried in this cloister church, as well as three +Danish Kings. + +Ingemann the poet spent most of his time at this charming town, which +stands on the lake of the Sorö Sö. In the luxuriant beech-woods which +surround the lake, Saxo Grammaticus, the first historian of Denmark, was +wont to wander. Both these celebrated men also lie in the old church, +which Ingeborg felt was a fitting resting-place for the noble dead. + +On the advice of Hans, Herr Nielsen took his young grand-daughter to see +the old convent church of Ringsted. Here many Danish Kings were buried +in the twelfth, thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. The interesting +Romanesque Church of Kallundborg was also visited. This Church, with its +four octagonal towers and a square tower in the middle, forms a Greek +cross. This is the most unique specimen of mediæval architecture in the +North. + +Ingeborg had long looked forward to seeing Roskilde Cathedral, and the +day was bright and sunny when they arrived at the sleepy little town on +the Roskilde Fjord. This stately Cathedral, with its two tall pointed +spires, is called the "Westminster Abbey" of Denmark. It is the +burial-place of the Danish Royal Family: thirty-three Kings and many +Queens rest in it. A beautiful alabaster tomb marks the resting-place of +Queen Margrethe, the famous Queen who united the three Crowns--Norway, +Sweden, and Denmark--and was ever ambitious for the glory and +development of these countries. She ruled with wisdom and wonderful +diplomacy, and was the most powerful Queen Denmark ever had. She has +been called the "Semiramis of the North." Though the three crowns are +still on the shield of Denmark, the other two kingdoms were lost to her +in the sixteenth century. Queen Margrethe was the daughter of Valdemar +IV., known as "Atterdag," because of his favourite proverb: "I Morgen er +der atter en Dag."[11] This powerful monarch kept his subjects in such +incessant turmoil by his numerous wars for acquiring territory "that +they had not time to eat"! The Renaissance chapel erected by Christian +IV., in which his tomb stands, is very beautiful. This popular monarch, +alike celebrated as architect, sailor, and warrior, was one of the most +impressive figures in Danish history. The mural paintings of the chapel +represent scenes in the life of this great King. + +Ingeborg was glad she remembered her history, and could tell her +grandfather so much as they went through the Cathedral. He, however, +informed her that Frederik VII. was the last of the Kings of the +Oldenburg line, which had been on the throne of Denmark for over four +hundred years. + +The sarcophagus of the beloved Christian IX., father of many European +crowned heads, including Queen Alexandra of England, is still kept +covered with fresh flowers. This King, whose memory is so revered in all +countries, inaugurated a new dynasty in Denmark. The curious old clock +at the western end of the cathedral interested Ingeborg, and she watched +with delight, when it struck the hour of noon, St. George, mounted on +his fiery steed, with many groans and stiff, jerky movements, kill the +dragon, which expired with a gruesome death-rattle! + +In the thirteenth century this quiet town of Roskilde was the capital, +and the archiepiscopal see of Denmark. An English Bishop, William of +Roskilde, is supposed to have built the Cathedral. + +We will now follow our little friend and her grandfather to +Frederiksborg Castle. The castle, with its many towers and pinnacles +reflected in still waters, stands in the middle of a lake. This handsome +Dutch Renaissance building is now used as an historical museum. Many of +the Danish Kings have been crowned in its magnificent chapel. Wandering +through the splendid rooms of the castle, Ingeborg could read the +history of her country in a very pleasant and interesting manner. The +collection being confined to one period for each room made instruction +an easy affair for the grandfather. Beginning with King Gorm the Old and +Canute the Great, it comprises all periods up to the last century. + +The autumn residence of the Royal Family, Fredensborg Castle, was the +next place of interest visited. This Castle of Peace was built to +commemorate the end of the war between Denmark and Sweden. "Fred" means +"peace" in Danish, and, indeed, this place proves a home of peace to +tired Royalty. Its park is considered the most beautiful in Denmark. The +magnificent avenues of lime-trees are lined by marble statues of +peasants in national costumes, Faroese, Icelandic and Norwegian, as well +as those of Denmark. + +The Open-Air Museum at Lyngby, with its ancient farm and peasant +buildings, the interiors of which are fitted up just as they used to be, +gave Ingeborg a peep into the past and old-time Denmark. Here she saw a +curious rolling-pin hanging in the ingle-nook of the farmhouse from the +village of Ostenfeld. This wooden pin, so her grandfather told her, was +a Clogg Almanac or Runic Calendar. It had four sides, each marking three +months, large notches denoting Sundays, small ones showing week-days. +Saints' days were marked by the symbol of each saint. He had seen some +of these old calendars in the Ashmolean Museum at Oxford, when he had +been in England, which were relics of Danish government there. These +quaint and curious Clogg Almanacs were used throughout Scandinavia, +small ones made of horn or bone being for the pocket. + +But here we must say good-bye to Ingeborg and her grandfather, as after +seeing Kronborg Castle and Elsinore they will return by the beautiful +coast-line to Copenhagen, there to enjoy many of the sights we have seen +in "dear little Denmark." + + + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 1: Thank you for the food.] + +[Footnote 2: May it agree with you.] + +[Footnote 3: Spoon-food.] + +[Footnote 4: Luncheon.] + +[Footnote 5: Be so good.] + +[Footnote 6: Birthday child.] + +[Footnote 7: Impenetrable swamp.] + +[Footnote 8: The sharp, dry, north-west wind which blows in the spring.] + +[Footnote 9: Retreat of wild-duck.] + +[Footnote 10: Blue Tower.] + +[Footnote 11: To-morrow comes another day.] + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DENMARK*** + + +******* This file should be named 20107-8.txt or 20107-8.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/0/1/0/20107 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +https://www.gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at https://www.gutenberg.org/about/contact + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. +To donate, please visit: +https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + diff --git a/20107-8.zip b/20107-8.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9d790db --- /dev/null +++ b/20107-8.zip diff --git a/20107-h.zip b/20107-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c17d663 --- /dev/null +++ b/20107-h.zip diff --git a/20107-h/20107-h.htm b/20107-h/20107-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..cd5f7b4 --- /dev/null +++ b/20107-h/20107-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,3232 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1" /> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Denmark, by M. Pearson Thomson</title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + a[title].page { + position: absolute; + right: 2%; + font-size: x-small; + font-style: normal; + font-weight: normal; + color: gray; + background-color: inherit; + display: inline; /* set to "none" to make page numbers disappear */ + } + a[title].page:after { + content: attr(title); + } + + a.fig:link IMG {border: none} + a.fig:visited IMG {border: none} + + p { text-indent: 1.5em; + margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .contents {margin-left: 25%;} + .contents_chapter { + } + .contents_section {margin-left: 3.5em; + text-indent: -1.5em; + } + + .linenum {position: absolute; top: auto; left: 4%;} /* poetry number */ + .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%;} + .sidenote {width: 20%; padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; + padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em; margin-left: 1em; + float: right; clear: right; margin-top: 1em; + font-size: smaller; color: black; background: #eeeeee; border: dashed 1px;} + + .bb {border-bottom: solid 2px;} + .bl {border-left: solid 2px;} + .bt {border-top: solid 2px;} + .br {border-right: solid 2px;} + .bbox {border: solid 2px;} + + .center {text-align: center; text-indent: 0em;} + .right {text-align: right;} + .right-indent {text-align: right; margin-right: 1.5em; } + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + .u {text-decoration: underline;} + .tocheader {font-size: 130%;} + + .caption {font-weight: bold;} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + .figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: + 1em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .figright {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .footnotes {border: dashed 1px;} + .footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + .footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} + .trnotes {border: dashed 1px; background-color: silver; color: inherit;} + .trnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + .trnote .label {position: absolute; left: 9%; text-align: right;} + + .index {text-indent: 0em;} + .fnanchor {vertical-align: super; font-size: .8em; text-decoration: none;} + + .poem {margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; text-align: left;} + .poem br {display: none;} + .poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + .poem span.i0 {display: block; margin-left: 0em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + .poem span.i2 {display: block; margin-left: 2em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + .poem span.i4 {display: block; margin-left: 4em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + hr.full { width: 100%; + margin-top: 3em; + margin-bottom: 0em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + height: 4px; + border-width: 4px 0 0 0; /* remove all borders except the top one */ + border-style: solid; + border-color: #000000; + clear: both; } + pre {font-size: 85%;} + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> +</head> +<body> +<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Denmark, by M. Pearson Thomson, Illustrated +by F. J. Hyldahl</h1> +<pre> +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a href = "http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre> +<p>Title: Denmark</p> +<p>Author: M. Pearson Thomson</p> +<p>Release Date: December 13, 2006 [eBook #20107]</p> +<p>Language: English</p> +<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> +<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DENMARK***</p> +<p> </p> +<h3>E-text prepared by Juliet Sutherland, Ralph Janke,<br /> + and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> + (http://www.pgdp.net/)</h3> +<p> </p> +<div class='footnotes'> +<h2><a name="TRANSCRIBERS_NOTES" id="TRANSCRIBERS_NOTES"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">Transcriber's note:</a></h2> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_TN1_12" id="Footnote_TN1_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_TN1_12"><span class="label">[TN1]</span></a> The section of the book about Norway is not included.</p></div> +</div> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<h2>PEEPS AT MANY LANDS</h2> + + +<h1><span title='The section of the book about Norway is not included here'>NORWAY</span></h1> + +<h2><span title='The section of the book about Norway is not included here'>BY LIEUT.-COL. A. F. MOCKLER-FERRYMAN, +F.R.G.S., F.Z.S.<a name="FNanchor_TN1_12" id="FNanchor_TN1_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_TN1_12" class="fnanchor">[TN1]</a></span></h2> + + +<p class='center'>AND</p> + + +<h1>DENMARK</h1> +<h2>BY M. PEARSON THOMSON</h2> + + +<p class='center'>WITH SIXTEEN FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS +IN COLOUR</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + + +<h3>THE MACMILLAN COMPANY</h3> +<p class='center'>64 & 66 <span class="smcap">Fifth Avenue, New York</span></p> +<p class='center'>1921</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a class='page' name='Page_ii' id='Page_ii' title='ii'></a><a name="DENMARK" id="DENMARK"></a>DENMARK</h2> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="SKETCH-MAP" id="SKETCH-MAP"></a> +<a class='fig' href="images/map.png"><img src="images/map-tb.png" width="400" height="519" alt="SKETCH-MAP OF DENMARK." title="SKETCH-MAP OF DENMARK. (click to enhance)" /></a> +<span class="caption">SKETCH-MAP OF DENMARK.</span> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a class='page' name='Page_v' id='Page_v' title='v'></a><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2> + + + +<h2>DENMARK</h2> +<h3><i>By M. Pearson Thomson</i></h3> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>CHAPTER</td><td align='right'>PAGE</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_I">I.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#MERRY_COPENHAGEN_I">MERRY COPENHAGEN—I</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_1'>1</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_II">II.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#MERRY_COPENHAGEN_II">MERRY COPENHAGEN—II</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_6'>6</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_III">III.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#HANS_CHRISTIAN_ANDERSEN_THE_FAIRY_TALE_OF_HIS_LIFE">HANS ANDERSEN—THE "FAIRY-TALE" OF HIS LIFE</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_12'>12</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">IV.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#FAMOUS_DANES">FAMOUS DANES</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_18'>18</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_V">V.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#LEGENDARY_LORE_AND_FOLK_DANCES">LEGENDARY LORE AND FOLK-DANCES</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_25'>25</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">VI.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#MANNERS_AND_CUSTOMS">MANNERS AND CUSTOMS</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_32'>32</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">VII.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#A_JAUNT_THROUGH_JUTLAND_I">A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND—I</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_39'>39</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">VIII.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#A_JAUNT_THROUGH_JUTLAND_II">A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND—II</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_45'>45</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">IX.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#THE_PEOPLES_AMUSEMENTS">THE PEOPLE'S AMUSEMENTS</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_51'>51</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_X">X.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#FARM_LIFE_BUTTER-MAKINGmdashHEDESELSKABET">FARM LIFE—BUTTER-MAKING—"HEDESELSKABET"</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_54'>54</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">XI.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#SOLDIERS_AND_SAILORS">SOLDIERS AND SAILORS</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_59'>59</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">XII.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#THE_PEOPLE_OF_THE_ISLES">THE PEOPLE OF THE ISLES</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_66'>66</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">XIII.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#FISHERMEN_AT_HOME_AND_AFLOAT">FISHERMEN AT HOME AND AFLOAT</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_72'>72</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">XIV.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#YOUTHFUL_DANES_AT_WORK_AND_PLAY">YOUTHFUL DANES AT WORK AND PLAY</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_78'>78</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">XV.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#INGEBORGS_JOURNEY_THROUGH_SEELAND">INGEBORG'S JOURNEY THROUGH SEELAND</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_83'>83</a></td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a class='page' name='Page_vii' id='Page_vii' title='vii'></a><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> + + +<h2>DENMARK</h2> +<h3><i>By F. J. Hyldahl</i></h3> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='right'>FACING PAGE</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#THE_FLOWER_MARKET">FLOWER MARKET IN COPENHAGEN</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_9'>9</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#DRAGOER_PEASANT">DRAGÖR PEASANT</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_16'>16</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CHILDREN_DAY">CHILDREN'S DAY</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_33'>33</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#HARVEST_TIME">HARVEST-TIME</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_40'>40</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#VAGT-PARADEN">VAGT-PARADEN</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_57'>57</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#SUNDAY_IN_THE_ISLAND">SUNDAY IN THE ISLAND OF LÆSÖ</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_64'>64</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#SKAGEN_FISHERMAN">SKAGEN FISHERMAN NEAR THE TOWER OF BURIED CHURCH</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_73'>73</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#WINTER_IN_THE_FOREST">WINTER IN THE FOREST</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_80'>80</a></td></tr> +</table></div> +<h4><i><a href="#SKETCH-MAP">Sketch-Map</a>, <a href="#Page_ii">page ii</a>, <a href="#DENMARK">Denmark Section</a>.</i></h4> + + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h1><a class='page' name='Page_1' id='Page_1' title='1'></a>DENMARK</h1> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER I</a></h2> + +<h3><a name="MERRY_COPENHAGEN_I" id="MERRY_COPENHAGEN_I"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">MERRY COPENHAGEN—I</a></h3> + + +<p>Copenhagen, the metropolis of Denmark, is a large and +flourishing city, with all the modern improvements of a +commercial capital. It has an atmosphere of its own, +an atmosphere of friendliness and gaiety, particularly +appreciated by English people, who in "Merry Copenhagen" +always feel themselves at home.</p> + +<p>The approach to this fine city from the North by the +Cattegat is very charming. Sailing through the Sound, +you come upon this "Athens of the North" at its most +impressive point, where the narrow stretch of water +which divides Sweden and Denmark lies like a silvery +blue ribbon between the two countries, joining the +Cattegat to the Baltic Sea. In summer the sparkling, blue +Sound, of which the Danes are so justly proud, is alive +with traffic of all kinds. Hundreds of steamers pass +to and from the North Sea and Baltic, carrying their +passengers and freights from Russia, Germany, Finland, +and Sweden, to the whole world. In olden times +Denmark exacted toll from these passing ships, which +the nations found irksome, but the Danes most pro<a class='page' name='Page_2' id='Page_2' title='2'></a>fitable. +This "Sundtold" was abolished finally at the +wish of the different nations using this "King's highway," +who combined to pay a large lump sum to +Denmark, in order that their ships might sail through +the Sound without this annoyance in future.</p> + +<p>Kronborg Castle, whose salute demanded this toll in +olden days, still rears its stately pinnacles against the +blue sky, and looking towards the old fortress of +Kjärnan, on the Swedish coast, seems to say, "Our +glory is of a bygone day, and in the land of memories."</p> + +<p>Elsinore, the ancient town which surrounds this castle, +is well known to English and American tourists as the +supposed burial-place of Hamlet, the Prince of Denmark +immortalized by Shakespeare. Kronborg Castle is +interesting to us, in addition, as being the place where +Anne of Denmark was married by proxy to James I. +of England. Here, also, the "Queen of Tears," +Caroline Matilda, sister of George III., spent some unhappy +months in prison, gazing sadly over the Sound, +waiting for the English ships to come and deliver her.</p> + +<p>We pass up the Sound viewing the luxuriant cool +green beech-woods of Denmark, and the pretty fishing +villages lying in the foreground. Villas with charming +gardens—their tiny rickety landing-stages, bathing +sheds, and tethered boats, adding fascination to the +homely scene—seem to welcome us to this land of fairy +tales and the home of Hans Andersen.</p> + +<p>The many towers and pinnacles of Copenhagen, +with the golden dome of the Marble Church, flash a<a class='page' name='Page_3' id='Page_3' title='3'></a> +welcome as we steam into the magnificent harbour of +this singularly well-favoured city. Here she stands, +this "Queen of the North," as a gracious sentinel bowing +acquiescence to the passing ships as they glide in +and out of the Baltic. The broad quays are splendidly +built, lined with fine warehouses, and present a busy +scene of commercial activity. The warships lying at their +moorings in the Sound denote that this is the station of +the fleet; here also we see the country's only fortress—the +formidable bulwarks which surround the harbour.</p> + +<p>Kjöbenhavn in Danish means "merchants' harbour," +and as early as the eleventh century it was a trading +centre for foreign merchants attracted by the rich supply +of herrings found by the Danish fishermen in the Baltic. +Bishop Absalon was the founder of the city. This +warrior Bishop strongly fortified the place, in 1167, on +receiving the little settlement from King Valdemar the +Great, and had plenty to do to hold it, as it was continually +harassed by pirates and the Wends. These, +however, found the Bishop more than a match for them. +His outposts would cry, "The Wends are coming!" +and the Bishop would leave his preaching, his bed, or +anything else he might be doing, gather his forces +together, and fight gallantly for his little stronghold. +He perhaps recognized that this might one day be the +key to the Baltic, which it has since become.</p> + +<p>This city, therefore, is not a new one, but bombardment +and conflagrations are responsible for its modern +appearance. Fortunately, some of the handsome edifices<a class='page' name='Page_4' id='Page_4' title='4'></a> +raised during the reign of Christian IV. (1588-1648) +still remain to adorn the city. This monarch was a +great architect, sailor, warrior, and King, and is one of +the most striking figures in Danish history. He was +beloved by his people, and did much for his kingdom. +The buildings planned and erected during this monarch's +reign are worthy of our admiration. The beautiful +Exchange, with its curious tower formed by four +dragons standing on their heads, and entwining their +tails into a dainty spire; Rosenborg Castle, with its +delicate pinnacles; the famous "Runde Taarn" (Round +Tower), up whose celebrated spiral causeway Peter the +Great is said to have driven a carriage and pair, are +amongst the most noteworthy. The originality in design +of the spires and towers of Copenhagen is quite remarkable. +Vor Frelsers Kirke, or Church of Our Saviour, +has an outside staircase, running round the outside of +its spire, which leads up to a figure of our Saviour, and +from this height you get a fine view of the city. The +tower of the fire-station, in which the fire-hose hangs at +full length; the copper-sheathed clock and bell tower—the +highest in Denmark—of the Town Hall; the Eiffel-like +tower of the Zoo, are among the most singular. In +all these towers there is a beautiful blending of copper +and gold, which gives a distinctive and attractive +character to the city. Other prominent features are +the pretty fish-scale tiling, and the copper and bronze +roofs of many of the buildings, with their "stepped" +gables. Charming, too, are the city's many squares and<a class='page' name='Page_5' id='Page_5' title='5'></a> +public gardens, canals with many-masted ships making +an unusual spectacle in the streets. But, after all, it is +perhaps the innate gaiety of the Copenhagener which +impresses you most. You feel, indeed, that these +kindly Danes are a little too content for national +development; but their light-hearted way of viewing +life makes them very pleasant friends, and their hospitality +is one of their chief characteristics. Every lady +at the head of a Danish household is an excellent cook +and manager, as well as being an agreeable and intelligent +companion. The Copenhagener is a "flat" dweller, +and the dining-room is the largest and most important +room in every home. The Dane thinks much of his +dinner, and dinner-parties are the principal form of +entertainment. They joke about their appreciation of +the good things of the table, and say, "a turkey is not +a good table-bird, as it is a little too much for one Dane, +but not enough for two!" A very pleasant side of +Copenhagen life has sprung up from this appreciation, +for the restaurants and cafés are numerous, and cater +well for their customers. While the Dane eats he must +have music, which, like the food, must be good; he +is very critical, and a good judge of both. This gay +café and restaurant life is one of the fascinations of +Denmark's "too-large heart," as this pleasant capital is +called by its people.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a class='page' name='Page_6' id='Page_6' title='6'></a><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER II</a></h2> + +<h3><a name="MERRY_COPENHAGEN_II" id="MERRY_COPENHAGEN_II"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">MERRY COPENHAGEN—II</a></h3> + + +<p>The climate of Copenhagen is delightful in summer, +but quite the reverse in winter. Andersen says "the +north-east wind and the sunbeams fought over the +'infant Copenhagen,' consequently the wind and the +'mud-king' reign in winter, the sunbeams in summer, +and the latter bring forgetfulness of winter's hardships." +Certainly, when the summer comes, the sunshine reigns +supreme, and makes Copenhagen bright and pleasant +for its citizens. Then the many water-ways and canals, +running up from the sea as they do into the heart of +the city, make it delightfully refreshing on a hot day. +Nyhavn, for instance, which opens out of the Kongen's +Nytorv—the fashionable centre of the town—is one of +the quaintest of water-streets. The cobbled way on +either side of the water, the curious little shops with +sailors' and ships' wares, old gabled houses, fishing and +cargo boats with their forests of masts, the little puffing +motor-boats plying to and fro—all serve to make a +distinctive picture. On another canal-side the fish-market +is held every morning. A Danish fish-market +is not a bit like other fish-markets, for the Dane must<a class='page' name='Page_7' id='Page_7' title='7'></a> +buy his fish alive, and the canal makes this possible. +The fishing-smacks line up the whole side of the quay; +these have perforated wooden boat-shaped tanks +dragging behind them containing the lively fish. The +market-women sit on the quay, surrounded by wooden +tubs, which are half-filled with water, containing the +unfortunate fish. A trestle-table, on which the fish are +killed and cleaned, completes the equipment of the fish-wives. +The customers scrutinize the contents of the +tub, choose a fish as best they can from the leaping, +gasping multitude, and its fate is sealed. When the +market-women require more fish, the perforated tank is +raised from the canal, and the fish extracted with a +landing-net and deposited in their tubs. Small fish +only can be kept alive in tanks and tubs; the larger +kinds, such as cod, are killed and sold in the ordinary +way. This market is not at all a pleasant sight, so it is +better to turn our backs on it, and pass on to the +fragrant flower-market.</p> + +<p>Here the famous Amager women expose their merchandise. +This market square is a gay spectacle, for the +Dane is fond of flowers, and the Amager wife knows +how to display her bright blooms to advantage. These +vendors are notable characters. They are the descendants +of the Dutch gardeners brought over by Christian II. to +grow fruit and vegetables for Copenhagen, and settled +on the fertile island of Amager which abuts on the city. +Every morning these Amager peasants may be seen +driving their laden carts across the bridge which joins<a class='page' name='Page_8' id='Page_8' title='8'></a> +their island to the mainland. These genial, stout, but +sometimes testy Amager wives have it all their own +way in the market-place, and are clever in attracting +and befooling a customer. So it has become a saying, +if you look sceptical about what you are told, the +"story-teller" will say, "Ask Amager mother!" which +means, "Believe as much as you like." These women +still wear their quaint costume: bulky petticoats, clean +checked apron, shoulder-shawl, and poke-bonnets with +white kerchief over them; and the merry twinkle of +satisfaction in the old face when a good bargain has +been completed against the customer's inclination is +quite amusing. These interesting old characters are +easily irritated, and this the little Copenhageners know +full well. When stalls are being packed for departure, +a naughty band of urchins will appear round the corner +and call out:</p> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border='0'><tr><td align='left'> +"Amager mother, Amager mo'er,<br /> +Give us carrots from your store;<br /> +You are so stout and roundabout,<br /> +Please tell us if you find the door<br /> +Too small to let you through!"<br /> +</td></tr></table></div> + +<p>The Amager wife's wrath is soon roused, and she is +often foolish enough to try and move her bulky proportions +somewhat quicker than usual in order to catch +the boys. This of course she never manages to do, for +they dart away in all directions. By this means the +Amager woman gets a little much-needed exercise, the +boys a great deal of amusement.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="THE_FLOWER_MARKET" id="THE_FLOWER_MARKET"></a> +<a class='fig' href="images/illus001.jpg"><img src="images/illus001-tb.jpg" width="400" height="559" alt="THE FLOWER MARKET, COPENHAGEN." title="THE FLOWER MARKET, COPENHAGEN. (click to enhance)" /></a> +<span class="caption">THE FLOWER MARKET, COPENHAGEN.</span> +</div> + +<p><a class='page' name='Page_9' id='Page_9' title='9'></a>Sunday is a fête-day in Copenhagen, and the Dane feels +no obligation to attend a Church service before starting +out on his Sunday expedition. A day of leisure means +a day of pleasure to the Copenhagener. The State +helps and encourages him by having cheap fares, and +good but inexpensive performances at the theatre and +places of entertainment on Sunday. Even the poorest +people manage to spare money for this periodical outing, +mother and children taking their full share in the simple +pleasures of the day. The Copenhagener looks forward +to this weekly entertainment, and longs for the fresh +air. This is not surprising, for many homes are stuffy, +ventilation and open windows not seeming a necessity. +A fine summer Sunday morning sees a leisurely stream +of people—the Danes never hurry themselves—making +for tram, train, or motor-boat, which will carry them +off to the beautiful woods and shores lying beyond the +city. Basking in the sunshine, or enjoying a stroll +through the woods, feasting on the contents of their +picnic baskets, with a cup of coffee or glass of pilsener +at a café where music is always going on, they spend a +thoroughly happy day. In the evening the tired but +still joyous throng return home, all the better for the +simple and pleasant outing. No country uses the +bicycle more than Denmark, and Sunday is the day +when it is used most. For the people who prefer to +take their dinner at home on Sunday there is the +pleasant stroll along the celebrated Langelinie. This +famous promenade, made upon the old ramparts, over<a class='page' name='Page_10' id='Page_10' title='10'></a>looks +the Sound with its innumerable yachts skimming +over the blue water, and is a delightful place for +pedestrians. A walk round the moat of the Citadel, on +the waters of which the children sail their little boats, +is also enjoyable. This Citadel, now used as barracks, +was built by Frederik III. in 1663, and formerly served +as a political prison. Struensee, the notorious Prime +Minister, was imprisoned here and beheaded for treason. +A few narrow, picturesque streets surrounding this fort +are all that remain of old Copenhagen.</p> + +<p>The art treasures contained in the museums of +Copenhagen being renowned, I must tell you a little +about them. Two or three of the palaces not now +required by the Royal Family are used to store some +of these treasures. Rosenborg Castle, built by +Christian IV., and in which he died, contains a collection +of family treasures belonging to the Oldenburg +dynasty. This historical collection of these art-loving +Kings is always open to the public. Besides Thorvaldsen's +Museum, which contains the greater portion +of his works, there is the Carlsberg Glyptotek, which +contains the most beautiful sculpture of the French +School outside France. The Danish Folk-Museum is +another interesting collection. This illustrates the life +and customs of citizens and peasants from the seventeenth +century to the present day, partly by single +objects, and partly by representations of their dwellings. +The "Kunstmusæet" contains a superb collection of +pictures, sculpture, engravings, and national relics.<a class='page' name='Page_11' id='Page_11' title='11'></a> +Here a table may be seen which formerly stood +in Christian II.'s prison. History tells how the +unhappy King was wont to pace round this table for +hours taking his daily exercise, leaning upon his hand, +which in time ploughed a groove in its hard surface. +The Amalienborg, a fine tessellated square, contains +four Royal palaces, in one of which our Queen Alexandra +spent her girlhood. From the windows of these palaces +the daily spectacle of changing the guard is witnessed +by the King and young Princes.</p> + +<p>Copenhagen is celebrated for its palaces, its parks, +porcelain, statuary, art-treasures, and last, but not least, +its gaiety.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a class='page' name='Page_12' id='Page_12' title='12'></a><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER III</a></h2> + +<h3><a name="HANS_CHRISTIAN_ANDERSEN_THE_FAIRY_TALE_OF_HIS_LIFE" id="HANS_CHRISTIAN_ANDERSEN_THE_FAIRY_TALE_OF_HIS_LIFE"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">HANS CHRISTIAN ANDERSEN, THE "FAIRY TALE" OF HIS LIFE</a></h3> + + +<p>I suppose the Dane best known to English boys and +girls is Hans Christian Andersen, whose charming +fairy-tales are well known and loved by them all. +Most of you, however, know little about his life, but +are interested enough in him, I dare say, to wish to +learn more, especially as the knowledge will give you +keener delight—if that is possible—in reading the +works of this "Prince of Story-tellers."</p> + +<p>Andersen himself said: "My life has been so +wonderful and so like a fairy-tale, that I think I had +a fairy godmother who granted my every wish, for if +I had chosen my own life's way, I could not have +chosen better."</p> + +<p>Hans C. Andersen was the son of a poor shoemaker, +an only child, born in Odense, the capital of the Island +of Funen. His parents were devoted to him, and his +father, who was of a studious turn of mind, delighted +in teaching his little son and interesting him in Nature. +Very early in life Hans was taken for long Sunday +rambles, his father pointing out to him the beauties of<a class='page' name='Page_13' id='Page_13' title='13'></a> +woods and meadows, or enchanting him with stories +from the "Arabian Nights."</p> + +<p>At home the evenings were spent in dressing puppets +for his favourite show, or else, sitting on his father's +knee, he listened while the latter read aloud to his +mother scenes from Holberg's plays. All day Hans +played with his puppet theatre, and soon began to +imagine plays and characters for the dolls, writing out +programmes for them as soon as he was able. Occasionally +his grandmother would come and take the child +to play in the garden of the big house where she lived +in the gardener's lodge. These were red-letter days +for little Hans, as he loved his granny and enjoyed +most thoroughly the pleasant garden and pretty +flowers.</p> + +<p>The boy's first great trouble came when his father +caught a fever and died, leaving his mother without +any means of support. To keep the little home +together his mother went out washing for her neighbours, +leaving little Hans to take care of himself. +Being left to his own devices, Hans developed his +theatrical tendencies by constructing costumes for his +puppets, and making them perform his plays on the +stage of his toy theatre. Soon he varied this employment +by reading plays and also writing some himself. +His mother, though secretly rejoicing in her son's +talent, soon saw the necessity for his doing something +more practical with his time and assisting her to keep the +home together. So at twelve years of age Hans was<a class='page' name='Page_14' id='Page_14' title='14'></a> +sent to a cloth-weaving factory, where he earned a small +weekly wage. The weavers soon discovered that Hans +could sing, and the men frequently made him amuse +them, while the other boys were made to do his work. +One day the weavers played a coarse practical joke on +poor sensitive Hans, which sent him flying home in +such deep distress that his mother said he should not +again return to the factory.</p> + +<p>Hans was now sent to the parish school for a few +hours daily, and his spare time was taken up with his +"peep-show" and in fashioning smart clothes for his +puppets. His mother intended to apprentice her son +to the tailoring, but Hans had fully made up his mind +to become an actor and seek his fortune in Copenhagen. +After his Confirmation—on which great occasion he +wore his father's coat and his first new boots—his +mother insisted on his being apprenticed without +further delay. With difficulty he finally succeeded in +persuading her to let him start for the capital with his +few savings. His mother had married again, so could +not accompany him; therefore, with reluctance and with +many injunctions to return at once if all did not turn +out well, she let him go. Accompanying him to the +town gate, they passed a gipsy on the way, who, on +being asked what fortune she could prophesy for the +poor lad, said he would return a great man, and his +native place would be illuminated and decorated in his +honour!</p> + +<p>Hans arrived in Copenhagen on September 5, a date<a class='page' name='Page_15' id='Page_15' title='15'></a> +which he considered lucky for ever after. A few days +in the city soon saw an end to his money. He applied +and got work at a carpenter's shop, but was driven away +by the coarseness of his fellow-workers. Hans made a +friend of the porter at the stage-door of the theatre, and +begged for some employment in the theatre; so occasionally +he was allowed to walk across the stage in a +crowd, but obtained scanty remuneration, and the lad +was often hungry. Starving and destitute, the happy +idea occurred to our hero to try and earn something by +his voice. He applied to Siboni, the Director of the +Music School, and was admitted to his presence whilst +the latter was at dinner. Fortunately for Hans, +Baggersen the poet and Weyse the celebrated composer +were of the party, so for their amusement the boy was +asked to sing and recite. Weyse was so struck by the +quality of his voice and Baggersen with his poetic feeling, +that they made a collection among them there and +then for him, and Siboni undertook to train his voice. +Unfortunately, in six months' time his voice gave way, +and Siboni counselled him to learn a trade. Hans +returned to the theatre in the hope of employment, and +his persistence finally gained him a place in a market +scene. Making a friend of the son of the librarian, he +obtained permission to read at the library, and he wrote +tragedies and plays, some of which he took to the +director of the theatre. This man became Andersen's +friend for life, for the grains of gold which he saw in +his work, marred though it was by want of education,<a class='page' name='Page_16' id='Page_16' title='16'></a> +roused his interest. The director brought Andersen to +the notice of the King, and he was sent to the Latin +school, where he took his place—although now a grown +man—among the boys in the lowest class but one. The +master's tongue was sharp, and the sensitive youth was +dismayed by his own ignorance. The kindness and +sympathetic encouragement of the director was the only +brightness of this period of Hans' life. University +life followed that of school, and Andersen took a good +degree. He now wrote a play, which was accepted and +produced at the theatre with such success that he wept +for joy. Soon his poems were published, and happiness +and prosperity followed. Later the King granted him +a travelling stipend, of forty-five pounds a year, and +travelling became his greatest pleasure. Andersen +visited England two or three times, and reckoned +Charles Dickens among his friends. He was the +honoured guest of Kings and Princes, and the Royal +Family of Denmark treated him as a personal friend.</p> + +<p>Though his "Fairy Tales" are the best known of his +writings, he wrote successful novels, dramas and poems. +Andersen's tastes were simple, and his child-like, +affectionate nature made him much beloved by all. +His native town, which he left as a poor boy, was +illuminated and decorated to welcome his return. Thus +the gipsy's prophecy came true. He died after the +public celebration of his seventieth birthday, leaving all +his fortune to the family of his beloved benefactor, the +director of the theatre. A beautiful bronze monument<a class='page' name='Page_17' id='Page_17' title='17'></a> +is erected to his memory in the children's garden of +the King's Park, Copenhagen. Here the little Danes +have ever a gentle reminder of their great friend, Hans +C. Andersen, who felt—to use his own words—"like +a poor boy who had had a King's mantle thrown over +him."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="DRAGOER_PEASANT" id="DRAGOER_PEASANT"></a> +<a class='fig' href="images/illus002.jpg"><img src="images/illus002-tb.jpg" width="400" height="546" alt="DRAGÖR PEASANT." title="DRAGÖR PEASANT. (click to enhance)" /></a> +<span class="caption">DRAGÖR PEASANT.</span> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a class='page' name='Page_18' id='Page_18' title='18'></a><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER IV</a></h2> + +<h3><a name="FAMOUS_DANES" id="FAMOUS_DANES"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">FAMOUS DANES</a></h3> + + +<p>Bertel Thorvaldsen (1770-1844), the famous Danish +sculptor, was born in Copenhagen. His father was an +Icelander, his mother a Dane, and both very poor. +Bertel's ambition when a little boy was to work his +mother's spinning-wheel, which, of course, he was never +permitted to do. One bright, moonlight night his +parents were awakened by a soft, whirring sound, and +found their little son enjoying his realized ambition. +In the moonlit room he had successfully started the +wheel and begun to spin, much to his parents' astonishment. +This was the beginning of his creative genius, +but many years went over his youthful head before he +created the works which made him famous. His father +carved wooden figure-heads for ships, and intended his +son to follow the same calling. Bertel, however, soon +showed talent and inclination for something better, +and was sent to the Free School of the Art Academy, +there making great progress. He received very little +education beyond what the Art School gave him, +and his youthful days were hard and poverty-stricken. +When his hours at the Academy were over he<a class='page' name='Page_19' id='Page_19' title='19'></a> +went from house to house trying to sell his models, +and in this way eked out a scanty living. In +spite of his poverty he was wholly satisfied, for his +wants were few. His dog and his pipe, both necessities +for happiness, accompanied him in all his +wanderings.</p> + +<p>His true artistic career only began in earnest when +he won a travelling scholarship and went to Rome, +where he arrived on his twenty-seventh birthday. +Stimulated to do his best by the many beautiful works +of art which surrounded him, he found production easy, +and the classical beauty of the Roman school appealed +to him. Regretting his wasted years, he set to work in +great earnest, and during the rest of his life produced a +marvellous amount of beautiful work. A rich Scotsman +bought his first important work, and the money thus +obtained was the means of starting him firmly on his +upward career. This highly talented Dane founded the +famous Sculpture School of Denmark, which is of world-wide +reputation. Thorvaldsen's beautiful designs—which +were mainly classical—were conceived with great +rapidity, and his pupils carried many of them out, +becoming celebrated sculptors also. Dying suddenly +in 1844, while seated in the stalls of the theatre watching +the play, his loss was a national calamity. He +bequeathed all his works to the nation, and these now +form the famous Thorvaldsen Museum, which attracts +the artistic-loving people of all nations to the city of +Copenhagen.</p> + +<p><a class='page' name='Page_20' id='Page_20' title='20'></a>In the courtyard of this museum lies the great +man's simple grave, his beautiful works being contained +in the building which surrounds it.</p> + +<p>At the top of this Etruscan tomb stands a fine bronze +allegorical group—the Goddess of Victory in her car, +drawn by prancing horses—fitting memorial to this +greatest of northern sculptors.</p> + +<p>Holger Drachmann was the son of a physician, and +quite early in life became a man of letters. Following +the profession of an artist, he became a very good +marine painter. This poet loved the sea in all its +moods, and was never happier than when at Skagen—the +extreme northern point of Jutland—where he spent +most of his summers. His painting was his favourite +pastime, but poetry the serious work of his life. He +was a very prolific writer, not only of verse and lyrical +poems, but of plays and prose works, and was a very +successful playwright. Drachmann's personality was a +strong one, though not always agreeable to his countrymen. +He had a freedom-loving spirit, and lived every +moment of his life. Some of his best poems are about +the Skaw fishermen, and later in life he settled down +among them, dying at Skagen in 1907. He was a +picturesque figure, with white flowing locks, erratic and +unpractical, as poets often are. Like other famous +Danes, he chose a unique burial-place. Away at Grenen, +in the sand-dunes, overlooking the fighting waters of +the Skagerack and Cattegat, stands his cromlech-shaped +tomb, near the roar of the sea he loved so much, where<a class='page' name='Page_21' id='Page_21' title='21'></a> +time and sand will soon obliterate all that remains of +the Byron of Denmark.</p> + +<p>Nikolai Frederik Grundtvig, the founder of the +popular high-schools for peasants, was born at his +father's parsonage, Udby, South Seeland. He was sent +to school in Jutland, and soon learned to love his wild +native moors. While attending the Latin School in +Aarhus he made friends with an old shoemaker, who +used to tell him interesting stories of the old Norse +heroes and sagas, often repeating the old Danish folk-songs. +The lad being a true Dane, a descendant of +the old vikings, he soon became very interested in the +history of his race. Being sent to the University of +Copenhagen, he chose to study Icelandic in order to +read the ancient sagas, English to read Shakespeare, +and German to read Goethe. This studious youth was +most patriotic, and the poetry of his country appealed +to him especially. Øehlenschläger's (a Danish poet) +works fired his poetical imagination.</p> + +<p>Grundtvig's poems were for the people, the beloved +Jutland moors and Nature generally his theme. His +songs and poems are loved by the peasants, and used at +all their festivals. He wrote songs "that would make +bare legs skip at sound of them," and, "like a bird in +the greenwood, he would sing for the country-folk." +So successfully did he write these folk-songs, that "bare +legs" do skip at the sound of them even to-day at +every festivity. He was an educational enthusiast, +and his high-schools are peculiar to Denmark. It is<a class='page' name='Page_22' id='Page_22' title='22'></a> +owing to these that the country possesses such a +splendid band of peasant farmers. Being a priest, he +was given the honorary title of Bishop, and founded a +sect called "Grundtvigianere."</p> + +<p>This noble man died in 1872, over ninety years of +age, working and preaching till the last, his deep-set +eyes, flowing white hair and beard, making him look +like Moses of old.</p> + +<p>Adam Øehlenschläger, the greatest Danish dramatist +and poet, was a Professor at the University of Copenhagen, +and a marvellously gifted man. He developed +and gave character to Danish literature, and is known +as the "Goethe of the North." Some of his finest +tragedies have been translated into English. These have +a distinctly northern ring about them, dealing as they +do with the legends and sagas of the Scandinavian +people. These tragedies of the mythical heroes of +Scandinavia, the history of their race, and, indeed, all +the works of this king of northern poets, are greatly +loved by all Scandinavians. Every young Dane delights +in Øehlenschläger as we do in Shakespeare, and by +reading his works the youths of Denmark lay the +foundation of their education in poetry. This bard +was crowned Laureate in Lund (Sweden) by the +greatest of Swedish poets, Esaias Tegner, 1829. +Buried by his own request at his birth-place, Frederiksberg, +two Danish miles (which means eight English +miles) from Copenhagen, his loving countrymen<a class='page' name='Page_23' id='Page_23' title='23'></a> +insisted on carrying him the whole distance, so great +was their admiration for this King of dramatists.</p> + +<p>Niels Ryberg Finsen, whose name I am sure you +have heard because his scientific research gave us the +"light-cure"—which has been established at the +London Hospital by our Queen Alexandra, who +generously gave the costly apparatus required for the +cure in order to benefit afflicted English people—was +born at Thorshavn, the capital of the Faroe +Islands. These islands are under Denmark, and lie +north of the Shetlands. His father was magistrate +there. His parents were Icelanders. At twelve years +of age Niels was sent to school in Denmark, and after +a few years at the Grammar School of Herlufholm, he +returned to his parents, who were now stationed in their +native town, Reykjavik, the capital of Iceland. Niels +continued his studies there, and when old enough +returned to Denmark to commence his medical work at +the University of Copenhagen.</p> + +<p>Hitherto he had shown no particular aptitude, but +in his medical work he soon distinguished himself, and +his skill gained him a place in the laboratory. He +now began to study the effect of light as a curative +remedy. All his life Finsen thought the sunlight the +most beautiful thing in the world—perhaps because he +saw so little of it in his childhood. He had watched its +wonderful effect on all living things, being much +impressed by the transformation caused in nature by<a class='page' name='Page_24' id='Page_24' title='24'></a> +the warm life-giving rays. With observations on +lizards, which he found charmingly responsive to sun +effects, he accidentally made his discovery, and gave +to the world this famous remedy for diseases of the +skin, which has relieved thousands of sufferers of all +nations.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a class='page' name='Page_25' id='Page_25' title='25'></a><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER V</a></h2> + +<h3><a name="LEGENDARY_LORE_AND_FOLK_DANCES" id="LEGENDARY_LORE_AND_FOLK_DANCES"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">LEGENDARY LORE AND FOLK DANCES</a></h3> + + +<p>The legend of Holger Danske, who is to be Denmark's +deliverer when heavy troubles come upon her, is one +which has its counterpart in other countries, resembling +that of our own King Arthur and the German Frederick +Barbarossa. When Denmark's necessity demands, +Holger Danske will come to her aid; till then he sits +"in the deep dark cellar of Kronborg Castle, into +which none may enter. He is clad in iron and steel, +and rests his head on his strong arms; his long beard +hangs down upon the marble table, into which it has +become firmly rooted; he sleeps and dreams. But in +his dreams he sees all that happens in Denmark. On +each Christmas Eve an angel comes to him and tells +him all he has dreamed is true, and that he may sleep +again in peace, as Denmark is not yet in real danger. +But should danger ever come, then Holger Danske +will rouse himself, and the table will burst asunder as +he draws out his beard. Then he will come forth in +all his strength, and strike a blow that shall sound in +all the countries of the world."</p> + +<p><a class='page' name='Page_26' id='Page_26' title='26'></a>Holger Danske was the son of the Danish King +Gotrick. While he was a youth his father sent him to +Carolus Magnus, whom he served during all his wars. +Thus he came to India, where he ate a fruit which made +his body imperishable. When Denmark is near ruin, +and all her young men have been slain in defending +her, then Holger Danske will appear, and, gathering +round him all the young boys and aged men, will lead +them on to victory, routing the enemy, and thus saving +the country. When a little plant growing in the Lake +of Viborg has become a tree, so large that you can tie +your horse to it, then the time draws near when all this +will happen.</p> + +<p>Once upon a time the Danes were in great trouble, +for they had no King. But one day they saw a barque, +splendidly decked, sailing towards the coast of Denmark. +As the ship came nearer the shore they saw it was +laden with quantities of gold and weapons, but not a +soul was to be seen on board. When the Danes +boarded the ship, they found a little boy lying asleep on +the deck, and above his head floated a golden banner. +Thinking that their god Odin had sent the boy, they +brought him ashore and proclaimed him King. They +named him Skjold, and he became a great and good +King. His fame was such that the Danish Kings to +this day are called "Skjoldunger." When this King +died, his body was placed on board a ship which was +loaded with treasure; and when it sailed slowly away +over the blue water, the Danes stood on the shore<a class='page' name='Page_27' id='Page_27' title='27'></a> +looking after it with sorrow. What became of the +ship no one ever knew.</p> + +<p>Denmark is rich in legends. There is the legend +about the "Danebrog," Denmark's national flag, which +is a white cross on a crimson ground. This bright and +beautiful flag looks thoroughly at home whatever its +surroundings. The story goes that when Valdemar Seir +(the Victorious) descended on the shores of Esthonia +to help the knights who were hard pressed in a battle +with the heathen Esthonians (1219), a miracle befell +him. The valour of his troops soon made an impression +on the pagans, and they began to sue for peace. It +was granted, and the priests baptized the supposed +converts. Very soon, however, the Esthonians, who +had been secretly reinforcing while pretending submission, +in order to throw dust in the eyes of the too +confiding Danes, brought up their forces and commenced +fighting anew. "It was the eve of St. Vitus, +and the Danes were singing Vespers in camp, when +suddenly a wild howl rang through the summer evening, +and the heathens poured out of the woods, attacked the +surprised Danes on all sides, and quickly thinned their +ranks. The Danes began to waver, but the Prince of +Rugen, who was stationed on the hill, had time to rally +his followers and stay the progress of the enemy. It +was a terrible battle. The Archbishop Andreas Sunesen +with his priests mounted the hill to lay the sword of +prayer in the scales of battle; the Danes rallied, and +their swords were not blunt when they turned upon<a class='page' name='Page_28' id='Page_28' title='28'></a> +their enemies. Whilst the Archbishop and others +prayed, the Danes were triumphant; but when his arms +fell to his side through sheer weariness, the heathens +prevailed. Then the priests supported the aged man's +arms, who, like Moses of old, supplicated for his people +with extended hands. The battle was still raging, and +the banner of the Danes had been lost in the fight. As +the prayers continued the miracle happened. A red +banner, with the Holy Cross in white upon it, came +floating gently down from the heavens, and a voice +was heard saying, 'When this sign is borne on high +you shall conquer.' The tide of battle turned, the +Christians gathered themselves together under the +banner of the Cross, and the heathens were filled with +fear and fled. Then the Danes knelt down on the +battle-field and praised God, while King Valdemar +drew his sword, and for the first time under the folds +of the Danebrog dubbed five-and-thirty of the bravest +heroes knights." Another legend tells the fate of a +wicked Queen of Denmark, Gunhild by name. This +Queen was first the consort of a Norwegian monarch, +who, finding her more than he or his people could +stand, thrust her out of his kingdom. She made her +way to Denmark, and soon after married the Danish +King. Though beautiful, Queen Gunhild's pride and +arrogance made her hateful to her new subjects, and +her attendants watched their opportunity to rid themselves +of such an obnoxious mistress. The time came +for them when the Queen was travelling through<a class='page' name='Page_29' id='Page_29' title='29'></a> +Jutland. A sign was given to her bearers, whilst +journeying through the marshes near Vejle, to drop +her down into the bog. This was done, and a stake +driven through her body. To-day in the church at +Vejle a body lies enclosed in a glass coffin, with a stake +lying beside it, the teeth and long black hair being in +excellent preservation. This body was found in 1821, +when the marshes near Vejle were being drained for +cultivation. The stake was found through it, thus +giving colour to the tradition. Poor Queen! lost +in the eleventh century and found in the nineteenth.</p> + + +<h3><i>Folk-dancers.</i></h3> + +<p>The Danes, like all the Scandinavians, are renowned +for their love of dancing. Lately they have revived the +beautiful old folk-dances, realizing at last the necessity +of keeping the ancient costumes, dances and songs before +the people, if they would not have them completely +wiped out. A few patriotic Danes have formed a society +of ladies and gentlemen to bring about this revival. +These are called the folk-dancers, their object being to +stimulate the love of old-time Denmark in the modern +Dane, by showing him the dance, accompanied by folk-song, +which his forefathers delighted in. Old-time +ways the Dane of to-day is perhaps a little too ready +to forget, but dance and song appeal to his northern +nature. The beautiful old costumes of the Danish +peasants have almost entirely disappeared, but those<a class='page' name='Page_30' id='Page_30' title='30'></a> +worn by the folk-dancers are facsimiles of the costumes +formerly worn in the districts they represent. These +costumes, with heavy gold embroidery, curious hats, or +pretty velvet caps, weighty with silver lace, must have +been a great addition to local colouring. The men also +wore a gay dress, and it is to be regretted that these old +costumes have disappeared from the villages and islands +of Denmark.</p> + +<p>In olden times the voice was the principal accompaniment +of the dance, and these folk-lorists generally sing +while dancing; but occasionally a fiddler or flautist plays +for them, and becomes the leader in the dance. Some +of these dances are of a comical nature, and no doubt +were invented to parody the shortcomings of some local +character. Others represent local industries. A pretty +dance is "Vœve Vadmel" (cloth-weaving). In this +some dancers become the bobbins, others form the warp +and woof; thus they go in and out, weaving themselves +into an imaginary piece of cloth. Then, rolling themselves +into a bale, they stand a moment, unwind, reverse, +and then disperse. This dance is accompanied by the +voices of the dancers, who, as they sing, describe each +movement of the dance. A very curious dance is called +"Seven Springs," and its principal figure is a series of +springs from the floor, executed by the lady, aided by +her partner. Another two are called respectively the +"Men's Pleasure" and the "Girls' Pleasure." In these +both men and girls choose their own partners, and +coquet with them by alluring facial expressions during<a class='page' name='Page_31' id='Page_31' title='31'></a> +the dance. The "Tinker's Dance" is a solo dance for +a man, which is descriptive and amusing; while the +"Degnedans" is more an amusing performance in +pantomime than a dance, executed by two men. Many +more than I can tell you about have been revived by +the folk-dancers, who take a keen delight in discovering +and learning them. They are entertaining and instructive +to the looker-on, and a healthy, though fatiguing, +amusement for the dancers.</p> + +<p>In the Faroe Islands the old-time way is still in vogue, +and the dance is only accompanied by the voice and +clapping of hands. Thus do these descendants of the +old vikings keep high festival to celebrate a good +"catch" of whales.</p> + +<p>The old folk-songs, which were sung by the people +when dancing and at other times, have a national value +which the Danes fully realize, many being written +down and treasured in the country's archives.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a class='page' name='Page_32' id='Page_32' title='32'></a><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER VI</a></h2> + +<h3><a name="MANNERS_AND_CUSTOMS" id="MANNERS_AND_CUSTOMS"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">MANNERS AND CUSTOMS</a></h3> + + +<p>The Danes being a polite and well-mannered race, the +children are early taught to tender thanks for little +pleasures, and this they do in a pretty way by thrusting +out their tiny hands and saying, "Tak" (Thank +you). It is the Danish custom to greet everybody, +including the servants, with "Good-morning," and +always on entering a shop you give greeting, and say +farewell on leaving. In the market-place it is the same; +also the children, when leaving school, raise their caps +to the teacher and call out, "Farvel! farvel!" In the +majority of houses when the people rise from the table +they say, "Tak for Mad"<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> to the host, who replies, +"Velbekomme."<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> The children kiss their parents and +say the same, while the parents often kiss each other +and say, "Velbekomme." The Danes are rather too +eager to wipe out old customs, and in Copenhagen the +fashionable people ignore this pretty ceremony. The +majority, however, feel uncomfortable if not allowed to +thank their host or hostess for their food.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="CHILDREN_DAY" id="CHILDREN_DAY"></a> +<a class='fig' href="images/illus003.jpg"><img src="images/illus003-tb.jpg" width="400" height="509" alt="CHILDREN'S DAY." title="CHILDREN'S DAY. (click to enhance)" /></a> +<span class="caption">CHILDREN'S DAY.</span> +</div> + +<p>A Danish lady, about to visit England for the first<a class='page' name='Page_33' id='Page_33' title='33'></a> +time, was told that here it was customary to say "Grace" +after meals. The surprise of the English host may be +imagined when his Danish guest, on rising from the table, +solemnly put out her hand and murmured the word +"Grace!" After a day or two, when this ceremony had +been most dutifully performed after every meal, the +Englishman thought he had better ask for an explanation. +This was given, and the young Dane joined +heartily in the laugh against herself!</p> + +<p>The Danes begin their day with a light breakfast of +coffee, fresh rolls, and butter, but the children generally +have porridge, or "öllebröd," before starting for school. +This distinctly Danish dish is made of rye-bread, beer, +milk, cream, and sometimes with the addition of a +beaten-up egg. This "Ske-Mad"<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> is very sustaining, +but I fear would prove a little too much for those unaccustomed +to it. Øllebröd also is the favourite Saturday +supper-dish of the working-classes, with the addition of +salt herrings and slices of raw onion, which doubtless +renders it more piquant.</p> + +<p>At noon "Mid-dag"<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> is served. Another peculiar +delicacy common both to this meal and supper is +"Smörrebröd," a "variety" sandwich consisting of a +slice of bread and butter covered with sausage, ham, +fish, meat, cheese, etc. making a tempting display, not +hidden as in our sandwich by a top layer of bread. The +Danes are very hospitable, and often invite poor students +to dine with them regularly once a week. Dinner<a class='page' name='Page_34' id='Page_34' title='34'></a> +consists of excellent soup (in summer made of fruit or +preserves), meat, pudding or fruit, and cream, and even +the poorest have coffee after this meal.</p> + +<p>Prunes, stewed plums or apples, and sometimes +cranberry jam, are always served with the meat or +game course, together with excellent but rather rich +sauce. The Danish housewife prides herself on the +latter, as her cooking abilities are often judged by the +quality of her sauces. It is quite usual for the Danish +ladies to spend some months in learning cooking and +housekeeping in a large establishment to complete +their education.</p> + +<p>"Vær saa god"<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> says the maid or waiter when +handing you anything, and this formula is repeated by +everyone when they wish you to enter a room, or, in +fact, to do anything.</p> + +<p>Birthdays and other anniversaries are much thought +of in Denmark. The "Födelsdagsbarn"<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> is generally +given pretty bouquets or pots of flowers, as well as +presents. Flowers are used on every joyous occasion. +Students, both men and women, may be seen almost +covered with bright nosegays, given by their friends to +celebrate any examination successfully passed.</p> + +<p>Christmas Eve, and not Christmas Day, is the festive +occasion in Denmark. Everybody, including the poorest, +must have a Christmas-tree, and roast goose, apple-cake, +rice porridge with an almond in it, form the +banquet. The lucky person who finds the almond<a class='page' name='Page_35' id='Page_35' title='35'></a> +receives an extra present, and much mirth is occasioned +by the search. The tree is lighted at dusk, and the +children dance round it and sing. This performance +opens the festivities; then the presents are given, +dinner served, and afterwards the young people dance.</p> + +<p>Christmas Day is kept quietly, but the day after +(St. Stephen's Day) is one of merriment and gaiety, +when the people go from house to house to greet their +friends and "skaal" with them.</p> + +<p>New Year's Eve brings a masque ball for the young +folk, a supper, fireworks, and at midnight a clinking of +glasses, when healths are drunk in hot punch.</p> + +<p>On Midsummer's Night fires are lighted all over the +country, and people gather together to watch the burning +of the tar-barrels. Near a lake or on the seashore +the reflections glinting on the water make a strangely +brilliant sight. On some of the fjords a water carnival +makes a pretty addition to these fires, which the children +are told have been lighted to scare the witches!</p> + +<p>The Monday before Lent is a holiday in all the +schools. Early in the morning the children, provided +with decorated sticks, "fastelavns Ris," rouse their +parents and others from slumber. All who are found +asleep after a certain time must pay a forfeit of Lenten +buns. Later in the day the children dress themselves +up in comical costume and parade the streets, asking +money from the passer-by as our children do on Guy +Fawkes' Day.</p> + +<p>A holy-day peculiar to Denmark is called "Store<a class='page' name='Page_36' id='Page_36' title='36'></a>-Bededag" +(Great Day of Prayer), on the eve of which +(Danes keep eves of festivals only) the church bells +ring and the people promenade in their best clothes. +"Store-Bededag" is the fourth Friday after Easter, and all +business is at a standstill, so that the people can attend +church. On Whit-Sunday some of the young folks rise +early to see the sun dance on the water and wash +their faces in the dew. This is in preparation for the +greatest holiday in the year, Whit-Monday, when +all give themselves up to outdoor pleasure.</p> + +<p>"Grundlovsdag," which is kept in commemoration +of the granting of a free Constitution to the nation by +Frederik VII., gives the town bands and trade-unions +an opportunity to parade the streets and display their +capability in playing national music. "Children's Day" +is a school holiday, and the children dress in the old +picturesque Danish costumes; they then go about the +town and market-places begging alms for the sanatoriums +in their collecting-boxes. In this way a large +sum is collected for these charities.</p> + +<p>"Knocking-the-cat-out-of-the-barrel" is an old +custom of the peasantry which takes place the Monday +before Lent. The young men dress themselves gaily, +and, armed with wooden clubs, hie them to the village +green. Here a barrel is suspended with a cat inside it. +Each man knocks the barrel with his club as he runs +underneath it, and he who knocks a hole big enough +to liberate poor puss is the victor. The grotesque +costumes, the difficulty of stooping and running under<a class='page' name='Page_37' id='Page_37' title='37'></a> +the barrel in them, when all your energies and attention +are required for the blow, result in many a comical +catastrophe, which the bystanders enjoy heartily. Puss +is frightened, but not hurt, and I think it would be +just as amusing without the cat, but the Danish peasants +think otherwise. Another pastime which takes place +on the same day is called "ring-riding." The men, +wearing paper hats and gay ribbons, gallop round the +course, trying to snatch a suspended ring in passing. +The man who takes the ring three times in succession is +called "King," he who takes it twice "Prince." When +the sport is over, King and Prince, with their train +of unsuccessful competitors, ride round to the farms and +demand refreshment for their gay cavalcade, of which +"Æleskiver," a peasant delicacy, washed down by a +glass of aqua-vitæ, forms a part.</p> + +<p>On the eve of "Valborg's Dag" (May-Day) bonfires +are lighted, and the young Danes have a dinner and +dance given to them. Each dance is so long that it is +customary for the young men to change their partners +two or three times during the waltz.</p> + +<p>A beautiful custom is still preserved among the older +peasantry: when they cross the threshold of their neighbour's +house they say, "God's peace be in this house."</p> + +<p>All domestic servants, students, and other people +who reside away from home for a time, take about with +them a chest of drawers as well as a trunk. I suppose +they find this necessary, because in Denmark a chest of +drawers is seldom provided in a bedroom.</p> + +<p><a class='page' name='Page_38' id='Page_38' title='38'></a>When the first snowdrops appear, the boys and girls +gather some and enclose them in a piece of paper, on +which is written a poem. This "Vintergække-Brev," +which they post to their friends, is signed by ink-spots, +as numerous as the letters in their name. The friend +must guess the name of the sender within a week, or the +latter demands a gift.</p> + +<p>Confirmation means coming-out in Denmark. As +this is the greatest festival of youth, the young folk are +loaded with presents; then girls put up their hair and +boys begin to smoke.</p> + +<p>The marriage of a daughter is an expensive affair for +parents in Denmark, as they are supposed to find all +the home for the bride, as well as the trousseau. The +wedding-ring is worn by both while engaged, as well as +after the marriage ceremony.</p> + +<p>The Epiphany is celebrated in many homes by the +burning of three candles, and the children are given a +holiday on this, the festival of the Three Kings. No +doubt you know this is a commemoration of the three +wise men of the East presenting their offerings of +gold, frankincense, and myrrh to our Lord.</p> + +<p>Storks are considered the sacred birds of Denmark. +These harbingers of good-luck the children take great +interest in, and more especially in the growth of the +stork family on the roof-tree.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a class='page' name='Page_39' id='Page_39' title='39'></a><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER VII</a></h2> + +<h3><a name="A_JAUNT_THROUGH_JUTLAND_I" id="A_JAUNT_THROUGH_JUTLAND_I"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND—I</a></h3> + + +<p>Jutland is the only province left to Denmark which +can claim to be mainland, and though it is the most +northern part of the country, some of its scenery is +very beautiful.</p> + +<p>The "Jyde," as the people of Jutland are called, are +proud of their birthplace, of their language, and of their +pronunciation, which the Copenhageners call "accent," +but the Jyde declare they speak the purest Danish +in the kingdom. However this may be, I am not in a +position to judge, but I do know that I can understand +the Jyde Danish better, and that it falls upon +my ear with a more pleasing sound than does the +Danish of the Copenhageners.</p> + +<p>The east coast of Jutland is quite charming, so +we will start our tour from the first interesting spot +on this route, and try to obtain a glimpse of the +country.</p> + +<p>In Kolding stands a famous castle, which was partially +burnt down in 1808. This gigantic ruin is now +covered in, and used as an historical museum for war +relics.</p> + +<p><a class='page' name='Page_40' id='Page_40' title='40'></a>Fredericia is a very important place. Here that part +of the train which contains the goods, luggage, and +mails, as well as the first-class passenger carriages for +Copenhagen, is shunted on to the large steam ferry-boat +waiting to receive it. This carries it across the smiling +waters of the Little Belt. A fresh engine then takes it +across the island of Funen to the steam-ferry waiting to +carry it across the Great Belt to Korsör, on the shores +of Seeland, when a locomotive takes the train to +Copenhagen in the ordinary way. These steam-ferries +are peculiar to Denmark, and are specially built and +equipped for this work. Danish enterprise overcomes +the difficulties of transport through a kingdom of +islands by these ferries.</p> + +<p>Fredericia is an old fortified town with mighty city +walls, which make a fine promenade for the citizens, +giving them a charming view of the Little Belt's sunlit +waters. In this town the Danes won a glorious victory +over the Prussians in 1849.</p> + +<p>Vejle is one of the most picturesque places on the +east coast. Along the Vejlefjord the tall, straight +pines of Jutland are reflected in the cool, still depths of +blue water, and the tiniest of puffing steamers will carry +you over to Munkebjerg. The fascinating and famous +Munkebjerg Forest is very beautiful—a romantic place +in which the youthful lovers of Denmark delight. +These glorious beech woods extend for miles, the +trees sloping down to the water's edge from a high +ridge, whence you have a magnificent view of the glitter<a class='page' name='Page_41' id='Page_41' title='41'></a>ing +fjord. Most inviting are these cool green shades on a +hot summer's day, but when clothed in the glowing +tints of autumn they present to the eye a feast of +gorgeous colour. A golden and warm brown carpet +of crisp, crackling leaves underfoot, the lap of the +fjord as a steamer ploughs along, sending the water +hissing through the bowing reeds which fringe the +bank, make the soothing sounds which fall on lovers' +ears as they wander through these pleasant glades.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="HARVEST_TIME" id="HARVEST_TIME"></a> +<a class='fig' href="images/illus004.jpg"><img src="images/illus004-tb.jpg" width="400" height="293" alt="HARVEST TIME." title="HARVEST TIME. (click to enhance)" /></a> +<span class="caption">HARVEST TIME.</span> +</div> + +<p>In winter this forest is left to the snow and hoarfrost, +and cold, cairn beauty holds it fast for many days.</p> + +<p>The pretty hotel of Munkebjerg, standing on the +summit of the ridge, which you espy through a clearing +in the trees, is reached by some scores of steps from the +landing-stage. Patient "Moses," the hotel luggage-carrier, +awaits the prospective guests at the pier. This +handsome brown donkey is quite a character, and +mounts gaily his own private zigzag path leading to +the hotel when heavily laden. His dejection, however, +when returning with empty panniers, is accounted +for by the circumstance of "No load, no carrot!" at +the end of the climb.</p> + +<p>Grejsdal is another beautiful spot inland from the +fjord, past which the primitive local train takes us to +Jellinge. In this quaint upland village stand the two +great barrows, the reputed graves of King Gorm and +Queen Thyra, his wife, the great-grandparents of +Canute the Great, the Danish King who ruled over +England for twenty years. A beautiful Norman church<a class='page' name='Page_42' id='Page_42' title='42'></a> +stands between these barrows, and two massive Runic +stones tell that "Harald the King commanded this +memorial to be raised to Gorm, his Father, and Thyra, +his Mother: the Harald who conquered the whole of +Denmark and Norway, and Christianized the Danes." +Steps lead to the top of these grassy barrows, and so +large are they that over a thousand men can stand at +the top. The village children use them as a playground +occasionally.</p> + +<p>Skanderborg, which is prettily situated on a lake, is +a celebrated town. Here a famous siege took place, +in which the valiant Niels Ebbesen fell, after freeing +his country from the tyrannical rule of the German +Count Gert.</p> + +<p>Aarhus, the capital of Jutland, is the second oldest +town in Denmark. Its interesting cathedral is the +longest in the kingdom, and was built in the twelfth +century. The town possesses a magnificent harbour, +on the Cattegat, the shores of which make a pleasant +promenade.</p> + +<p>Randers is a pretty place, with many quaint +thatched houses belonging to the sixteenth, seventeenth, +and eighteenth centuries. The Gudenaa, +Denmark's only river, skirts the town. This river is +narrow and slow-moving, as there are no heights to +give it force.</p> + +<p>Hobro, situated on a fjord, wears an air of seclusion, +lying as it does far away from the railway-station. A +sail on this fjord will bring us to Mariager, the smallest<a class='page' name='Page_43' id='Page_43' title='43'></a> +town in Denmark. Renowned are the magnificent +beech-woods and ancient abbey of this tiny town. In +the surroundings we have a panoramic view of typical +Jutish scenery—a charming landscape in the sunset +glow, forest, fjord, farmsteads, and moor affording a +rich variety of still life.</p> + +<p>Aalborg, the delightful old market town on the +Limfjord, is fascinating, especially at night, when its +myriad lamps throw long shafts of light across the water. +Scattered through the town are many old half-timbered +houses. These beautiful buildings, with their cream-coloured +rough-cast walls, oak beams, richly carved +overhanging eaves, and soft-red tiled roofs, show little +evidence of the ravages of time. The most famous of +these houses was built, in the seventeenth century, by +Jens Bang, an apothecary. The chemist's shop occupies +the large ground-floor room, the windows of which +have appropriate key-stones. On one is carved a man's +head with swollen face, another with a lolling tongue, +and similar grotesques.</p> + +<p>To be an idler and watch the traffic going to and fro +over the pontoon bridge which spans the Limfjord is +a delightful way of passing the time. Warmed by the +sun and fanned by the breezes which blow along the +fjord, you may be amused and interested for hours by +the life that streams past you. Occasionally the traffic +is impeded by the bridge being opened to allow the +ships to pass through. Small vessels can in this way +save time and avoid the danger of rounding the north<a class='page' name='Page_44' id='Page_44' title='44'></a> +point of Jutland. If you look at your map you will +see that this fjord cuts through Jutland, thus making a +short passage from the Cattegat to the North Sea.</p> + +<p>Jutland north of the Limfjord is called Vendsyssel. +Curious effects of mirage may be seen in summer-time +in the extensive "Vildmose"<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> of this district.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a class='page' name='Page_45' id='Page_45' title='45'></a><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER VIII</a></h2> + +<h3><a name="A_JAUNT_THROUGH_JUTLAND_II" id="A_JAUNT_THROUGH_JUTLAND_II"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND—II</a></h3> + +<p>As we pass through Vendsyssel homely farmsteads and +windmills add a charm to the landscape, while tethered +kine and sportive goats complete a picture of rural life.</p> + +<p>When we arrive at Frederikshavn we come to the +end of the State railway. This terminus lies close to +the port, which is an important place of call for the large +passenger and cargo steamers bound for Norway and +other countries, as well as being a refuge for the fishing-fleet.</p> + +<p>A slow-moving local train takes us across the sandy +wastes to Skagen, a straggling village, with the dignity +of royal borough, bestowed upon it by Queen Margaret, +in the fourteenth century, as a reward to the brave +fishermen who saved from shipwreck some of her kins-folk. +Skagen is a picturesque and interesting place, the +home of many artists, as well as a noted seaside resort.</p> + +<p>Bröndum's Hotel, a celebrated hostelry, where the +majority of visitors and artists stay, is a delightfully +comfortable, homely dwelling. The dining-room, +adorned with many specimens of the artists' work, is a +unique and interesting picture-gallery.</p> + +<p><a class='page' name='Page_46' id='Page_46' title='46'></a>On the outskirts of the town the white tower of the +old church of Skagen may be seen peeping over the +sand-dunes. This "stepped" tower, with its red-tiled, +saddle-back roof, forms a striking feature in this weird +and lonely landscape. The church itself is buried +beneath the sand, leaving only the tower to mark the +place that is called the "Pompeii of Denmark," sand, +not lava, being answerable for this entombment. It is +said that the village which surrounded the church was +buried by a sandstorm in the fourteenth century. This +scene of desolation, on a windy day, when the "sand +fiend" revels and riots, is best left to the booming surf +and avoided by those who do not wish to be blinded.</p> + +<p>To the south of Skagen lie other curious phenomena +created by this "Storm King." The "Raabjerg Miler" +are vast and characteristic dunes of powdery sand in +long ridges, like huge waves petrified in the very act of +turning over! In the neighbouring quicksands trees +have been planted, but refuse to grow.</p> + +<p>Viborg, the old capital of Jutland, possesses an historically +interesting cathedral. In the crypt stands the +tomb of King Eric Glipping, as well as those of other +monarchs. The interior of the cathedral is decorated +with fine frescoes by modern artists.</p> + +<p>As we journey to Silkeborg we pass through the vast +heathland, "Alhede," and are impressed by the plodding +perseverance of the heath-folk. The marvellous enterprise +of the Danes who started and have so successfully +carried out the cultivation of these barren tracts of land<a class='page' name='Page_47' id='Page_47' title='47'></a> +deserves admiration. The convicts are employed in +this work, planting, trenching, and digging, making +this waste land ready for the farmer. These men have +a cap with a visor-like mask, which can be pulled over +the face at will. This shields the face from the cold +blasts so prevalent on these moors; also, it prevents the +prying eyes of strangers or fellow-workers.</p> + +<p>Many baby forests are being nursed into sturdy +growth, as a protection for farm-lands from the sand +and wind storms.</p> + +<p>This monotonous-looking heath is not without beauty; +indeed, it has a melancholy charm for those who dwell +on it. The children love it when the heather is in +bloom, and spend happy days gathering berries from +out of the gorgeous purple carpet. The great stacks of +peat drying in the sun denote that this is the principal +fuel of the moor-folk.</p> + +<p>From Silkeborg we start to see the Himmelbjerget, +the mountain of this flat country. It rises to a height +of five hundred feet, being the highest point in Denmark.</p> + +<p>'Tis the joy and pride of the Danes, who select this +mountain and lake district before all others for their +honeymoons!</p> + +<p>A curious paddle-boat, worked by hand, or a small +motor-boat will take us over the lake to the foot of +Himmelbjerget. Our motor-boat, with fussy throb, +carries us away down the narrow river which opens +into the lake. The life on the banks of the river is +very interesting. As we sail past the pretty villas, with<a class='page' name='Page_48' id='Page_48' title='48'></a> +background of cool, green beech-woods, we notice that +a Danish garden must always have a summer-house to +make it complete. In these garden-rooms the Danes +take all their meals in summer-time. The drooping +branches of the beech-trees dip, swish, and bend to the +swirl of water created by our boat, which makes miniature +waves leap and run along the bank in a playful +way. How delightfully peaceful the surrounding landscape +is as we skim over the silvery lake and then land! +The climbing of this mountain does not take long. +There is a splendid view from the top of Himmelbjerget, +for the country lies spread out like a map before us. +This lake district is very beautiful, and when the ling is +in full bloom, the heather and forest-clad hills encircling +the lakes blaze with colour.</p> + +<p>At Silkeborg the River Gudenaa flows through the +lakes Kundsö and Julsö, becoming navigable, but it is +only used by small boats and barges for transporting +wood from the forests. The termination "Sö" means +lake, while "Aä" means stream. Steen Steensen +Blicher, the poet of Jutland, has described this scenery, +which he loved so much, quite charmingly in some of +his lyrical poems. He sings:</p> + +<div class='center'> +<table border='0'><tr><td align='left'> +"The Danes have their homes where the fair beeches grow,<br /> +By shores where forget-me-nots cluster."<br /> +</td></tr></table></div> + +<p>This poet did much to encourage the home industries +of the moor-dwellers, being in sympathy with them, as +well as with their lonely moorlands.</p> + +<p><a class='page' name='Page_49' id='Page_49' title='49'></a>The old-time moor-dwellers' habitations have become +an interesting museum in Herning. This little mid-Jutland +town is in the centre of the moors, so its +museum contains a unique collection from the homes of +these sturdy peasants. The amount of delicate needlework +these lonely, thrifty folks accomplished in the +long winter days is surprising. This "Hedebo" needlework +is the finest stitchery you can well imagine, +wrought on home-spun linen with flaxen thread. Such +marvellous patterns and intricate designs! Little wonder +that the best examples are treasured by the nation. +The men of the family wore a white linen smock for +weddings and great occasions. So thickly are these overwrought +with needlework that they will stand alone, +and seem to have a woman's lifetime spent upon them. +Needless to say, these family garments were handed +down as heirlooms from father to son.</p> + +<p>Knitting, weaving, the making of Jyde pottery and +wooden shoes (which all wear), are among the other +industries of these people.</p> + +<p>As we journey through Skjern and down the west +coast to Esbjerg, the end of our journey, we notice the +picturesque attire of the field-workers. An old shepherd, +with vivid blue shirt and sleeveless brown coat, with +white straggling locks streaming over his shoulders, +tends his few sheep. This clever old man is doing +three things at once—minding his sheep, smoking his +pipe, and knitting a stocking. The Danes are great +knitters, men and women being equally good at it.<a class='page' name='Page_50' id='Page_50' title='50'></a> +Many girls are working in the fields, their various +coloured garments making bright specks on the landscape. +Occasionally a bullock-cart slowly drags its way +across the field-road, laden with clattering milk-cans. +We pass flourishing farmsteads, with storks' nests on +the roofs. The father-stork, standing on one leg, +keeping guard over his young, looks pensively out over +the moors, thinking, no doubt, that soon it will not +be worth his while to come all the way from Egypt to +find frogs in the marshes! For the indefatigable Dalgas +has roused the dilatory Danes to such good purpose +that soon the marshes and waste lands of Jutland will +be no more.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a class='page' name='Page_51' id='Page_51' title='51'></a><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER IX</a></h2> + +<h3><a name="THE_PEOPLES_AMUSEMENTS" id="THE_PEOPLES_AMUSEMENTS"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">THE PEOPLE'S AMUSEMENTS</a></h3> + + +<p>"Have you been in Tivoli?" is the first question a +Copenhagener would ask you on your arrival in the gay +capital. If not, your Danish friend will carry you off +to see these beautiful pleasure-gardens. Tivoli is for +all classes, and is the most popular place of amusement +in Denmark. This delightful summer resort is the place +of all others in which to study the jovial side of the +Danish character. Even the King and his royal visitors +occasionally pay visits, incognito, to these fascinating +gardens, taking their "sixpenn'orth of fun" with the +people, whose good manners would never allow them to +take the slightest notice of their monarch when he is +enjoying himself in this way. To children Tivoli is +the ideal Sunday treat. Every taste is catered for at +Tivoli, and the Saturday classical concerts have become +famous, for one of the Danes' chief pleasures is good +music. Tivoli becomes fairyland when illuminated with +its myriad lights outlining the buildings and gleaming +through the trees. The light-hearted gaiety of the +Dane is very infectious, and the stranger is irresistibly +caught by it. The atmosphere of unalloyed merriment<a class='page' name='Page_52' id='Page_52' title='52'></a> +which pervades when tables are spread under the +trees for the alfresco supper is distinctly exhilarating. +These gardens have amusements for the frivolous also, +such as switchbacks, pantomimes of the "Punch and +Judy" kind, and frequently firework displays, which +last entertainment generally concludes the evening.</p> + +<p>The Royal Theatre in Copenhagen is a national school +of patriotism, and the healthy spirit of its plays has an +ennobling effect on the people. Everything is Danish +here, and Denmark is the only small nation in Europe +which has successfully founded a national dramatic art. +The "Molière of the North," Ludwig Holberg, was +the father of the Danish drama, and the first to make +the people realize the beauty of their own language. +This gifted Dane was a great comedy-writer, and had +the faculty of making his fellows see the comic side of +their follies.</p> + +<p>The "Royal Ballet" played at this theatre is quite +distinctive. Bournonville, its creator, was a poet who +expressed himself in motion instead of words, and these +"dumb poems" appeal strongly to the Scandinavian +character. This poet aimed at something more than +spectacular effects upon the people: his art consisted in +presenting instructive tableaux, which, while holding +the attention of his audience, taught them their traditional +history. The delicate daintiness of the Danish +ballet everyone must appreciate. The exquisite and +intricate dances, together with the magnificent tableaux, +are accompanied by wild and magical music of Danish<a class='page' name='Page_53' id='Page_53' title='53'></a> +composition. Bournonville ballets represent scenes +from classical mythology, as well as from ancient +Scandinavian history, and the Danish people are much +attached to this Northern composer of ballet. "Ei +blot til Lyst"—Not only for pleasure—is the motto +over this National Theatre door, and it is in the Ballet +School here that the young Danes begin their training. +These young folk take great pleasure in learning the +beautiful dances, as well as in the operatic and dramatic +work which they have to study, for they must serve a +certain period in this, as in any other profession.</p> + +<p>Another place of amusement which gives pleasure to +many of the poorer people is the Working Men's +Theatre. Actors, musicians, as well as the entire +management, are all of the working classes, who are +trained in the evenings by professionals. The result +is quite wonderful, and proves the pleasure and interest +these working people take in their tuition, and how +their artistic abilities are developed by it. On Sundays, +and occasionally in the week, a performance is given, +when the working classes crowd into the theatre to see +their fellows perform. This entertainment only costs +sixpence for good seats, drama and farce being the +representations most appreciated. Notwithstanding +that smoking is prohibited during the performances—a +rule which you would think no Dane could tolerate, +being seldom seen without pipe or cigarette—it is a +great success, and denotes that their love of the play is +greater than their pleasure in the weed.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a class='page' name='Page_54' id='Page_54' title='54'></a><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER X</a></h2> + +<h3><a name="FARM_LIFE_BUTTER-MAKINGmdashHEDESELSKABET" id="FARM_LIFE_BUTTER-MAKINGmdashHEDESELSKABET"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">FARM LIFE—BUTTER-MAKING—"HEDESELSKABET"</a></h3> + + +<p>Farming in Denmark is the most important industry +of the kingdom, and gives employment to half the +nation. The peasant is very enlightened and advanced +in his methods; agricultural and farm products form the +principal exports of the country. England takes the +greater part of this produce. Three or four times a +week the ships leave Esbjerg—this port being the only +Danish one not blocked by ice during some part of the +winter—for the English ports, laden with butter, bacon +and eggs for the London market. Now, why can the +Danish farmer, whose land is poorer and his climate +more severe than ours, produce so much? Education, +co-operation and the help given by the State to small +farmers lay the foundation, so the Danes will tell you, +of the farmer's prosperity. The thrift and industry of +the peasant farmer is quite astonishing. He is able to +bring up a large, well-educated family and live comfortably +on seven or eight acres of land; whereas in +England we are told that three acres will not keep a +cow! The Danish farmer makes six acres keep two +cows, many chickens, some pigs, himself, wife and<a class='page' name='Page_55' id='Page_55' title='55'></a> +family, and there is never any evidence of poverty on +these small farms—quite the reverse. The farmer is +strong and wiry, his wife fine and buxom, and his +children sturdy, well-cared-for little urchins. All, +however, must work—and work very hard—both with +head and hands to produce this splendid result. The +Danish farmer grows a rapid rotation of crops for his +animals, manuring heavily after each crop, and never +allowing his land to lie fallow as we do. On these +small farms there is practically no grass-land; hedges +and fences are unnecessary as the animals are always +tethered when grazing. Omission of hedges is more +economical also, making it possible to cultivate every +inch of land. There is nothing wasted on a Danish farm. +Many large flourishing farms also exist in Denmark, +with acres of both meadow and arable land, just as in +England; but the peasant farmer is the interesting +example of the Danish system of legislation. The +Government helps this small holder by every means in +its power to become a freehold farmer should he be +willing and thrifty enough to try.</p> + +<p>The typical Danish farmstead is built in the form of +a square, three sides of which are occupied by the sheds +for the animals, the fourth side being the dwelling-house, +which is generally connected with the sheds by +a covered passage—a cosy arrangement for all, as in +bad weather the farmer need not go outside to attend +to the animals, while the latter benefit by the warmth +from the farmhouse.</p> + +<p><a class='page' name='Page_56' id='Page_56' title='56'></a>The Danes would never speak crossly to a cow or +call her by other than her own name, which is generally +printed on a board over her stall. The cow, in fact, is +the domestic pet of the Danish farm. In the winter +these animals are taken for a daily walk wearing their +winter coats of jute!</p> + +<p>These small farmers realize that "Union is Strength," +and have built up for themselves a marvellous system +of co-operation. This brings the market literally to the +door of the peasant farmer. Carts collect the farm +produce daily and transport it to the nearest factories +belonging to this co-operation of farmers. At these +factories the milk is turned into delicious butter, the +eggs are examined by electric light, and "Mr. Pig" +quickly changes his name to Bacon! These three +commodities form the most remunerative products of +the farm.</p> + +<p>The Danish farmer is a strong believer in education, +thanks to the Grundtvig High-schools. Bishop +Grundtvig started these schools for the benefit of the +sons and daughters of yeomen. When winter comes, +and outside farm-work is at a standstill, the farmer and +his family attend these schools to learn new methods of +farming and dairy-work. The farmer's children are +early taught to take a hand and interest themselves in +the farm-work. The son, when school is over for the +day, must help to feed the live-stock, do a bit of spade-work +or carpentering, and perhaps a little book-keeping +before bedtime. These practical lessons develop in<a class='page' name='Page_57' id='Page_57' title='57'></a> +the lad a love of farm-work and a pride in helping on +the family resources.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="VAGT-PARADEN" id="VAGT-PARADEN"></a> +<a class='fig' href="images/illus005.jpg"><img src="images/illus005-tb.jpg" width="400" height="493" alt="VAGT-PARADEN. LIFEGUARDS DRAWING UP OUTSIDE +THE PALACE." title="VAGT-PARADEN. (click to enhance)" /></a> +<span class="caption">VAGT-PARADEN. LIFEGUARDS DRAWING UP OUTSIDE +THE PALACE.</span> +</div> + +<p>Butter-making is an interesting sight at the +splendidly equipped steam-factories, and we all know +that Danish butter is renowned for its excellence. +When the milk is weighed and tested it runs into a +large receiver, thence to the separator; from there the +cream flows into the scalder, and pours over the ice +frame in a rich cool stream into a wooden vat.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile the separated milk has returned through +a pipe to the waiting milk-cans and is given back to +the farmer, who utilizes it to feed his calves and pigs. +The cream leaves the vat for the churn through a +wooden channel, and when full the churn is set in +motion. This combined churn and butter-worker +completes the process of butter-making, and when the +golden mass is taken out it is ready to be packed for +the English market. The milk, on being received at +the factory, is weighed and paid for according to weight. +It takes 25 lbs. of milk to make 1 lb. of butter.</p> + +<p>"Hedeselskabet" (Heath Company) is a wonderful +society started by Captain Dalgas and other +patriotic Danes, in 1866, for the purpose of reclaiming +the moors and bogs. The cultivation of these lands +seemed impossible to most people, but these few +enthusiasts with great energy and perseverance set to +work to overcome Nature's obstacles. These pioneers +have been so successful in their efforts that in less than +half a century three thousand square miles of useless<a class='page' name='Page_58' id='Page_58' title='58'></a> +land in Jutland have been made fertile. Trees have +been planted and carefully nursed into good plantations, +besides many other improvements made for the benefit +of the agriculturalist and the country generally. All +along the sandy wastes of the west coast of Jutland +esparto grass has been sown to bind the shifting sand, +which is a danger to the crops when the terrible "Skaj"<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> +blows across the land with unbroken force. Thanks to +the untiring energies of this society for reclaiming the +moors, Denmark has gained land almost equal to that +she lost in her beautiful province of Schleswig, annexed +by Prussia in the unequal war of 1864.</p> + +<p>In the town of Aarhus, the capital of Jutland, a +handsome monument has been raised to the memory +of Captain Dalgas, the father of the movement for +reclaiming the moors, by his grateful countrymen.</p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a class='page' name='Page_59' id='Page_59' title='59'></a><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER XI</a></h2> + +<h3><a name="SOLDIERS_AND_SAILORS" id="SOLDIERS_AND_SAILORS"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">SOLDIERS AND SAILORS</a></h3> + + +<p>Every Danish boy knows he must undergo a period +of training as a soldier or sailor when he reaches his +twentieth year. This is because Denmark is small and +poor, and could not maintain a standing army, so her +citizens must be able to defend her when called upon. +This service is required from all, noble and peasant +alike, physical weakness alone bringing exemption. +This six or twelve months' training means a hard rough +time for young men accustomed to a refined home, but +it has a pleasant side in the sympathy and friendship of +comrades. The generality of conscripts do not love +their soldiering days, and look upon them as something +to be got over, like the measles! "Jens" is the Danish +equivalent for "Tommy Atkins," and "Hans" is the +"Jack Tar" of Denmark.</p> + +<p>To see the daily parade of Life Guards before the +royal palace is to see a splendid military display. This +parade the King and young Princes often watch from +the palace windows. The crowd gathers to enjoy the +spectacle of "Vagt-Paraden" (changing the guard) in +the palace square, when the standard is taken from the<a class='page' name='Page_60' id='Page_60' title='60'></a> +Guard House and borne, to the stirring strains of the +"Fane-Marsch," in front of the palace. As the +standard-bearer marches he throws forward his legs +from the hips in the most curious stiff way. This old +elaborate German step is a striking feature of the daily +parade. When the guard is changed and the band has +played a selection of music, the same ceremony is +repeated, and the standard deposited again in its resting-place. +Then the released guard, headed by the band +playing merry tunes, march back to their barracks +followed by an enthusiastic crowd. The fresh guard +take their place beside the sentry-boxes, which stand +around the palace square. These are tall red pillar-boxes +curiously like giant letter-boxes!</p> + +<p>In the Schleswig-Holstein War of 1864, the last war +Denmark was engaged in, many Danish soldiers proved +their valour and heroism in the unequal encounter. +These gallant men were buried in Schleswig, and as +the Danish colours were forbidden by the tyrannical +Prussian conquerors, the loyal Schleswigers hit upon +a pretty way of keeping the memory of their heroes +green. The "Danebrog" was designed by a cross +of white flowers on a ground of red geraniums over +each grave. In this way the kinsmen of these patriots +covered their last resting-place with the colours +of their glorious national flag, under which they +fell in Denmark's defence. In Holmens Kirke, Copenhagen, +many heroes lie buried. This building, originally +an iron foundry, was converted into a church by<a class='page' name='Page_61' id='Page_61' title='61'></a> +the royal builder, Christian IV., for the dockyard men +to worship in, and it is still used by them. This King's +motto, "Piety strengthens the realm," stands boldly +over the entrance of this mortuary chapel for famous +Danes.</p> + +<p>As Denmark is a kingdom composed mainly of islands +and peninsula, she has a long line of sea-board to +defend, and a good navy is essential for her safety. +The Danes being descendants of Vikings and sea-rovers, +you may be sure that their navy is well maintained.</p> + +<p>A boy who chooses the navy as his profession must +leave school at the age of fourteen years, and go for +nine months' training on a warship as a voluntary +apprentice. At the end of this time he knows whether +he likes the profession well enough to join it—if so, +two years' coaching is given to enable him to pass the +necessary examinations for entering the Naval Academy. +Here he is trained for four years, spending the four +summer months of each year in cruising. This Naval +Academy, where officers are trained, is a fine old institution, +and prides itself on the record of the famous men +it has turned out. The present King of Greece, and +many other members of the Danish Royal Family, +have also been trained at this Academy. The Academy +course is expensive, and as promotion is slow, and pay +small in the navy, the Lieutenants are sometimes permitted +to captain a ship in the merchant service for +three years. This they are glad to do, as it increases<a class='page' name='Page_62' id='Page_62' title='62'></a> +their pay and knowledge of navigation. Denmark +being too small to maintain a large cruising fleet, these +officers would have little opportunity of proving their +sailing powers without this arrangement.</p> + +<p>When cruising, the high spirits of the young cadets +sometimes lead them into mischief, thereby bringing +trouble upon their heads. I knew a naval captain who +hit upon a very original and effective form of punishment +for wrong-doers. The cadet cap is a blue "tam-o'-shanter" +with the usual woolly bob of the same +colour on the top. "The naughty boys shall have a +red bob," said the "Kaptejn," "and thus be branded +for misdemeanour!" The culprits disliked this badge +intensely, I imagine mostly because their comrades +derisively admired the colour which made them conspicuous. +One day royalties were being shown over +the ship, and a young Princess asked "why some of the +boys had those pretty red tufts on their caps?" You +may imagine the chagrin and confusion of the culprits; +scarlet faces and crimson tufts told their own tale! +The boys, you may be sure, thought twice in future +before risking another penitential week of branding and +ridicule for breach of discipline.</p> + +<p>In Copenhagen one of the discarded warships is used +as public restaurant and training-school for ships' cooks. +Here the sailor-men are taught every branch of cooking +and kitchen-work. When trained, these cooks are +employed on the merchant-ships, as well as on the +men-of-war.</p> + +<p><a class='page' name='Page_63' id='Page_63' title='63'></a>Some interesting stories are told of the naval heroes +of Denmark which you will like to hear. Peder Tordenskjold +is the Nelson of Denmark. This man, besides +being a great Admiral, was a most genial character, +and had a striking and original personality. Many +true tales are told about this hero which the young +Danish lads never tire of hearing. There is a favourite +one which tells of the ingenious way by which he +discovered the weak points in his enemy's stronghold. +Dressing himself as a fisherman, he accompanied two +other fishers in a little rowing-boat laden with fish +to the enemy's shores. Taking a basket of fish, he +mounted the hill to the fort, saying he had brought the +fish for the commandant. He was allowed to pass +in to the fort with his fish, and, pretending stupidity, +kept losing his way—gaining knowledge thereby—till +he reached the commandant's residence. Gaining permission +from the latter to supply the garrison with +fish, he inquired for how many men he should provide. +"Let me see," said the commandant, half to himself, +"a hundred guns—two hundred men; you may bring +fish for a hundred men." Tordenskjold then left the +fort, having obtained all the information he required, +and returned to his boat. At this moment the +captain of one of the ships lying in the bay arrived on +shore, and the pretended fisherman at once accosted +him, asking permission to serve his men with fish. +This being granted, he at once rowed to the ship, where +he soon disposed of his fish, and conversing with the<a class='page' name='Page_64' id='Page_64' title='64'></a> +sailors, he gained the information that in two days' time +there would be a great festivity held on shore, at which +most of them would be present. With this valuable +knowledge he returned to his own shore from the +Swedish coast, and laid plans which gave Denmark a +victory and proved fatal to the Swedes. In Holmens +Kirke, where this hero lies buried, a splendid black +marble tomb has been erected to his memory by +King Frederik IV. Near by lies another naval hero, +Niels Juel, whose gilt and copper coffin is surmounted +by a tablet which tells of his brave deeds.</p> + +<p>Captain Hvitfeldt, the hero of Kjöge Bay, blew up +his ship with three hundred men to save the Danish +fleet from destruction. In the war of 1710, between +Denmark and Sweden, this captain's ship, the <i>Danebrog</i>, +took fire. To save the ships which were being +driven by the wind towards his burning vessel, he and +his gallant crew sacrificed their lives.</p> + +<p>Herluf Trolle was a Danish noble and a famous +Admiral, who left all his wealth to found a school +for orphans. His noble wife, Fru Bergitta, was +greatly distressed that the Admiral's will could not be +found, as she was most anxious that his wishes, which +were also her own, with regard to the school, should be +carried into effect. The Admiral's relatives would +inherit the property, and were already clamouring for +it, when one night Fru Bergitta had a dream. She +dreamed she saw someone walking round her husband's +writing-table, attentively inspecting the legs. These<a class='page' name='Page_65' id='Page_65' title='65'></a> +she examined on awakening, and found one to be +hollow. Discovering a secret spring, she pressed it, +and beheld the will lying in the hollow space. So +Herluf Trolle's school was founded, and although this +brave old Admiral died from wounds received in battle +centuries ago, yet his school is considered to be one of +the best at the present day.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="SUNDAY_IN_THE_ISLAND" id="SUNDAY_IN_THE_ISLAND"></a> +<a class='fig' href="images/illus006.jpg"><img src="images/illus006-tb.jpg" width="400" height="556" alt="SUNDAY IN THE ISLAND OF LÆSÖ." title="SUNDAY IN THE ISLAND OF LÆSÖ. (click to enhance)" /></a> +<span class="caption">SUNDAY IN THE ISLAND OF LÆSÖ.</span> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a class='page' name='Page_66' id='Page_66' title='66'></a><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER XII</a></h2> + +<h3><a name="THE_PEOPLE_OF_THE_ISLES" id="THE_PEOPLE_OF_THE_ISLES"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">THE PEOPLE OF THE ISLES</a></h3> + + +<p>One of the most storm-swept and barren of Denmark's +many islands is the island of Fanö. Lying, as it does, +exposed to the full force of the North Sea gales, it yet +serves to protect the harbour of Esbjerg from these +storms. It is eight miles long, and three miles at its +broadest part. A trim little steamer will carry you +across from Esbjerg to Nordby—the fishing town on +the east coast of Fanö—in twenty minutes. Nordby +is both quaint and picturesque. The low thatched +houses, with rough-cast, whitewashed walls, nestle close +to each other for shelter from the winds.</p> + +<p>The Fanö women have a practical but peculiar +costume; the thickly-pleated skirt has a bright-coloured +border, while the close-fitting bodice is adorned with +embroidery, and pretty antique buttons. A folded +cotton kerchief and accordion-pleated apron give a +daintiness to the whole dress. The head-dress, however, +gives the most singular finish to the costume. A +dark, checked-bordered handkerchief tied over a stiff, +cambric frame, entirely envelops the head. The four +ends of this handkerchief are tied in an odd way, two<a class='page' name='Page_67' id='Page_67' title='67'></a> +being left upstanding like rabbits' ears! This striking +head-dress gives the Fanö wife a fantastic appearance. +When the good-natured, smiling faces of these women +are hidden behind a mask, the combination of dress and +mask makes them awesome-looking folk. The men of +the island are nearly all fishermen; the women are the +farmers, and it is to protect their faces from the blinding +sand-storms, while working on the land, that +these masks are worn. This mask obliterates all +comeliness, for only the eyes peep out from the weird +face-protector.</p> + +<p>This island of heath, dune, and quicksand is wild and +romantic. The cultivated fields are protected by sand-hills, +and belts of stunted, wind-swept trees that afford +some slight protection to the crops. The island belongs +to the people, who cultivate it assiduously. The courage +and perseverance of these women agriculturalists is +rewarded by fair crops, notwithstanding an adverse +climate.</p> + +<p>At the south end of the island, far away from any +dwelling, is the interesting "Fugleköjerne,"<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> where +three or four hundred wild-duck are taken in a day +during the season. Decoy-ducks are used for this +purpose.</p> + +<p>The west side of the island is the most fashionable +watering-place in Denmark. Large hotels and pretty +villas line the shore, and here the well-to-do Danes +inhale bracing sea-breezes.</p> + +<p><a class='page' name='Page_68' id='Page_68' title='68'></a>On a windy day this western shore is not amusing. +Clouds of blinding sand whirl high in the air, while +the booming surf rolls and plunges on the beach with +deafening roar, and makes rank and fashion fly to +shelter in hotel or villa till the storm is over. Visitors +in summer and storms in winter have it all their own +way on this west coast—the people of Fanö trouble +it not.</p> + +<p>Bornholm, situated in the middle of the Baltic, is +both beautiful and fertile. Its products are very +valuable to Denmark. From here comes the clay of +which the exquisite Copenhagen porcelain is made. +Here, too, the granite for building the country's +defences and docks is quarried. I fancy if you were +to ask a young Dane what Bornholm is most famed for +he would say, "Turkeys," for the island supplies the +Copenhagen market with these birds.</p> + +<p>The chief town, Rönne, is charming, with its many +low-roofed houses, which overlook the Baltic. It is +noted for its terra-cotta ware, clocks, and Museum of +Antiquities.</p> + +<p>Most of the towns are upon the coast. Four +singular round churches, built of granite, were formerly +used as places of refuge for the people when beset +by pirates. These "Rundkirker" are peculiar to +Bornholm.</p> + +<p>A high festival is celebrated every year on the anniversary +of the day when the inhabitants succeeded in +throwing off the Swedish yoke, which they had borne<a class='page' name='Page_69' id='Page_69' title='69'></a> +for a short time in the seventeenth century with resentment.</p> + +<p>Hammershus Castle, on the northern extremity of +Bornholm, was built in the thirteenth century. There +is a sad tale connected with this romantic castle, about +a Danish noble and his wife. This noble, Corfitz +Ulfeldt, was imprisoned there for treason. His beautiful +wife, Eleonora, the favourite daughter of Christian IV., +accompanied him, preferring imprisonment with him +to liberty without him. After the Count died, Eleonora, +who had a mortal enemy in Queen Caroline Amalia, +was sent by the latter to the "Blaataarn"<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> of Slotsholmen, +Copenhagen, and there incarcerated for twenty-two +years. The illustrious Eleonora was only liberated on +the death of the vindictive Queen, but the long years +of captivity—without reason—had wrecked her life.</p> + +<p>Læsö is a small island in the Cattegat, the inhabitants +of which are mainly farmers and fishermen, and the old +women wear a particular costume for Sunday, which is +called the "church costume."</p> + +<p>The people of Amager are great market-gardeners. +They are of Dutch extraction. Christian II., after flying +from his country, took refuge in Holland, and some of +the Dutch helped him in trying to regain his throne. +For this service he gave his Dutch followers the island +of Amager. The descendants of these Dutch people +still retain their old customs and characteristics. Clattering +about in wooden shoes, the old women, in quaint<a class='page' name='Page_70' id='Page_70' title='70'></a> +costume, may be seen driving their geese down the +picturesque streets to the meadows. Besides being +market-gardeners and florists, these Amager folk rear +and fatten the geese for the Christmas market.</p> + +<p>The natural beauty of the island of Möen is striking, +and unlike the rest of Denmark. "Möen's Klint" are +great, jagged white cliffs rising abruptly from the sea. +Enchanting beech-woods thickly crown the summit, +giving distinctive and unusual beauty to it. From +Sommerspiret, the highest point, we have an extensive +view over the Østersöen and Köjge Bay, where the +famous victory over the Swedes was won by Niels Juel +in 1677.</p> + +<p>In Denmark the town-crier beats a drum to draw +attention to the notice he is about to give.</p> + +<p>Danish postmen present a gorgeous appearance, in +red coats, with smart cloaks of the same brilliant hue +for winter wear. These and the bright yellow mail-vans, +which they drive sometimes, arrest attention, and give +importance to the carriers of His Majesty's mails.</p> + +<p>In many of the houses the "Forhöjning" is still used. +This is a raised platform close to the window, on which +the lady of the house sits to do her embroidery. While +she is here she can follow all that goes on in the street +below by an ingenious arrangement of oblique convex +mirrors fixed to the outside of the window, and reflecting +the life in the streets both ways.</p> + +<p>The numerous pretty articles made of amber, which +adorn the ladies' dressing-tables, and of which beads and<a class='page' name='Page_71' id='Page_71' title='71'></a> +ornaments for the girls are composed, are of local +manufacture, amber being found in quantities on the +west coast of Jutland.</p> + +<p>In the islands of Funen and Seeland there are many +grand old manor-houses belonging to the nobility, +whose fine estates give employment to many peasants. +A story is told of a certain noble, Christian Barnekow +by name, who saved his King, Christian IV., by his +heroic self-sacrifice. The King had lost his horse, and +was on the point of being killed or made prisoner when +Barnekow came to his rescue. Giving the King his own +horse, he said, "I give my horse to my King, my life to +the enemy, and my soul to God." A street in Copenhagen +is called after this brave nobleman "Kristenbernikovstrade."</p> + +<p>It is characteristic of the Danes to run words into +each other, and streets in Denmark often have prodigiously +long names.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a class='page' name='Page_72' id='Page_72' title='72'></a><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER XIII</a></h2> + +<h3><a name="FISHERMEN_AT_HOME_AND_AFLOAT" id="FISHERMEN_AT_HOME_AND_AFLOAT"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">FISHERMEN AT HOME AND AFLOAT</a></h3> + + +<p>The class of people most lauded by their own and +other nations is that of the brave and hardy fishermen +of Denmark. These men are always willing to man +the life-boat and to risk their lives to save those in +peril on the dangerous coast of Jutland. Although +hundreds of ships are wrecked on this dreaded +"Jernkyst" (iron coast), their crews are invariably +saved by these courageous men. The whole length of +the west coast of Jutland is bleak and exposed to the +storms and fogs of the North Sea. Not one single +harbour of refuge can be found between Esbjerg and +the Skaw. Dangerous sandbanks and massive cliffs +guard the coast, making navigation both difficult and +hazardous. All along this perilous coast life-saving +apparatus of the newest and best type is stored in +the life-boat houses placed at intervals close to the +seashore. On stormy nights the watching sentinels +summon by telephone the fishermen of the tiny hamlets +near. At sound of a rocket the distressful cry, "A +wreck, a wreck!" runs over the telephone, and immediately +brave hearts and hands are putting off to the<a class='page' name='Page_73' id='Page_73' title='73'></a> +rescue, while trembling women anxiously wait their +husbands' return with warm restoratives for the saved. +These fishermen's wives are brave too, for it is anxious +work waiting and watching. It is not to be wondered +at that this merciless and cruel coast is dreaded by all +seamen. How thankful they must feel when they see +the great lighthouse at Grenen—the northernmost point +of Jutland—and can signal "All's well!" "Alt vel! +passeret Grenen" flash the lights across the water, and +both passengers and crew breathe a little more freely +if it has been a stormy passage. Something like eighty +thousand vessels pass by this coast in a year, so you +may be sure the gallant fishermen of Denmark who live +on the iron coast have plenty of rescue work to do.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="SKAGEN_FISHERMAN" id="SKAGEN_FISHERMAN"></a> +<a class='fig' href="images/illus007.jpg"><img src="images/illus007-tb.jpg" width="400" height="520" alt="SKAGEN FISHERMAN NEAR THE TOWER OF BURIED CHURCH." title="SKAGEN FISHERMAN NEAR THE TOWER OF BURIED CHURCH. (click to enhance)" /></a> +<span class="caption">SKAGEN FISHERMAN NEAR THE TOWER OF BURIED CHURCH.</span> +</div> + +<p>You should see this coast on a stormy day, more +especially at Grenen, where those two mighty seas, the +Skagerack and Cattegat, meet. When the tempest +rages here, far as eye can see a long ridge of seething, +tossing water denotes the meeting-place of the currents. +The great "white horses" in battle array fight, plunge, +and roar—each striving for the mastery which neither +gains. This wrestling-match is a splendid spectacle to +those who are safe on shore, also to those at sea if the +day is clear, because they can then give the reef a wide +berth. Tossing spray is thrown high into the air and +wind-borne to the shore, so even at a distance from the +waves you may have a salt shower-bath should you be +able to "keep your legs" against the fury of the gale. +The screaming gulls which fly around, dipping and<a class='page' name='Page_74' id='Page_74' title='74'></a> +rising, enjoying as only "storm-birds" can the roar +and tumult of these tempestuous waters, enhance the +fierce loneliness of the scene. This awe-inspiring +"Nature-barrier" saddens you—even while you exult +in the madness of its fury—when you think what it +means on a foggy night to the poor mariner. What +a comfort for the seafarer to know that there is such a +famous race of fishermen here, willing and ready to +man the life-boat and rescue them from the angry, +engulfing waters! You would never guess these seas +could be otherwise than kind when you enter their +smiling depths for a swim on a calm, sunny day. How +gentle and invigorating they can be the fishermen as +well as the visitors know, and any morning you may +see the former returning from their daily dip with +dripping heads and towels along the shore. Somehow +these fishermen are always picturesque. In the summer +evening, sitting or lying on the sunlit beach, smoking +their cutty-pipes and waiting for the time to launch +their boats for the fishing, they make an impressive +picture. Kindly blue eyes and weather-beaten faces +look at you from under the sou'westers, while blue +jerseys, long sea-boots with curled-over tops and oil-skins, +complete the sea-going outfit. Fully equipped, +they charm the eye of the most fastidious, and it is +little wonder that they have become subjects for famous +artists and poets.</p> + +<p>These fishermen are very devout, and before launching +their boat they all stand round it with clasped<a class='page' name='Page_75' id='Page_75' title='75'></a> +hands and bowed heads, offering up a short, silent +prayer for help and protection on these dangerous +waters. Then, pushing the boat out into the water, +they jump in while it floats—sea-boots getting wet in +the process—and wave farewell to their children on the +shore, who cry in return "Farvel Fa'er!"</p> + +<p>Lars Kruse, the late captain of the life-boat at Skagen, +has had a beautiful monument raised to his memory, +and his son will show you with great pride the cups +and medals he left behind as mementoes of his brave +deeds. These medals have been presented by many +different nations whose sea-farers have been saved by +him. Amongst these is one given by Queen Victoria.</p> + +<p>Captain Larsen, a well-known mariner, who, on +retiring from his post on one of the light-ships, settled +at Old Skagen, has left a unique collection to the +village. This now constitutes a museum of exquisitely +carved furniture, much of it inlaid with ivory, marbles +and metals in dainty designs, all made by this old sailor +during the last twelve years of his life—a wonderful +record of industry. Old Skagen is a quaint fisher-village, +nestling behind the sand-dunes, trying to shelter +itself from the sand and sea-storms to which these +shores are subjected.</p> + +<p>Many of these fisher-folk are farmers also, tilling and +cultivating the heath-lands which lie beyond the village. +The fisher cottages are quite pretty, with thatched or +red-tiled roofs, white or buff rough-cast walls, green +painted doors and windows, with black painted founda<a class='page' name='Page_76' id='Page_76' title='76'></a>tions +which protect them from the sand. Bright +flowering plants in the windows and the neat and +clean appearance of the whole betoken the joy and +comfort that reigns in the fisherman's home. Many +household duties are performed at the cottage door in +the sandy enclosure surrounding the little homestead. +Here the old men mend the nets, keeping a watchful +eye on the babies, while the women clean and salt the +fish, hanging them up in rows to dry in the sun. In +these garden enclosures, also, many quaintly pretty +miniature houses may be seen erected on tall poles. +These are to encourage the starlings and other songsters +to settle in them, as there are no trees. Hen-roosts +and outhouses are adorned with the name-boards of +wrecked boats washed up on the shore, while discarded +boats turned over and tarred make the roofs of these +curious shelters worthy of royal hens!</p> + +<p>The older fishermen have a safe and effective way of +trawling from the strand. Putting out in a small boat, +taking their net with them, to which a long rope is +attached—the end of this being left in charge of the +fishermen on the shore—they row gaily over the water, +paying out the rope as they go. When the limit of +this rope is reached, the men drop their weighted net +overboard and pull for the shore, bringing with them +another attached rope which is paid out till they reach +the strand. When they have landed and the boat is +beached, half a dozen men or more take hold of each +rope—these are fastened to each side of the submerged<a class='page' name='Page_77' id='Page_77' title='77'></a> +net—and begin hauling it to the shore. The straining +muscles of the men as they march up the beach with a +strong, steady, overhand pull on the rope denotes that +this is heavy work. It is a grand sight! As the net +nears the shore the gleaming, glittering mass of fish can +be seen leaping and jumping in vain endeavour to escape +from their prison, only the smaller fry succeeding. At +last the net with its silver load reaches the shore with +the noise as of a great wave breaking upon the beach, +which is caused by the efforts of the fish to gain their +freedom. The best fish are picked out and the others +returned to the sea, while the gulls swoop down with +querulous cry and gobble all that float on the surface +of the water. These fishermen have a prejudice against +skate, and use it only for bait.</p> + +<p>St. Clement is the patron saint of Danish fishermen, +and many of the churches in the coast towns are dedicated +to him.</p> + +<p>As the Cathedral of Aarhus is dedicated to St. Clement, +the Skaw fishermen have given an exquisite model of a +ship to the church. This ship is a perfect representation +in miniature of a man-of-war. It was made in +Holland for Peter the Great, but the ship which carried +it was wrecked near Grenen, and the model was saved +by the Skaw fishermen.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a class='page' name='Page_78' id='Page_78' title='78'></a><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER XIV</a></h2> + +<h3><a name="YOUTHFUL_DANES_AT_WORK_AND_PLAY" id="YOUTHFUL_DANES_AT_WORK_AND_PLAY"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">YOUTHFUL DANES AT WORK AND PLAY</a></h3> + + +<p>Denmark is renowned for its educational system and +for its schools. These schools are all under Government +control, and meet the wants of every class. The +authorities are upheld by the parents, both being +determined there shall be no such thing as an ignoramus +in Denmark, so whether the children are educated at +home or sent to school, they must begin lessons at the +age of seven. If they have a governess at home the +parents must give a guarantee to the authorities that +the governess is efficient and capable of giving the +standard education to the children. Should parents +elect to take their children abroad during the school +term, they must notify their intention, undertaking that +a teacher shall accompany them and lessons continue +while away. Shirking lessons is quite an impossibility +for little Danes, as everybody thinks that education +comes before all else, so parents do not encourage +idleness or extra holidays during the school year.</p> + +<p>School attendance is compulsory for all children +between the ages of seven and fourteen. The hours +are not long nor wearisome, as the lessons are arranged<a class='page' name='Page_79' id='Page_79' title='79'></a> +with a view to holding the attention of young minds +during the period of instruction. The classes are +small, even in the free schools, never more than thirty-five +pupils to a teacher, and generally less. The lesson +lasts forty minutes, and then there is an interval for play. +The thorough education of the pupils for their future +work in life is considered, so lessons in writing, reading, +and arithmetic, in the Kommune schools, are varied by +tailoring lessons for boys, and cookery for girls, after +they are ten years of age. At every school gymnastics +play an important part—pleasant lessons these are for +all—but perhaps the lesson the boys most delight in +is their instruction in Slöyd. Each lad has his carpenter's +bench with necessary tools, and as we know every boy +is happy when making or marring with hammer and nails, +I am sure you will think these must be enviable lessons. +I have seen some charming models as well as useful +things made by the boys—a perfect miniature landau, +complete in every detail, benches, bureaux, carts, tables, +chairs, besides many other serviceable articles. Besides +this pleasure-work at school, the boys, if they are +farmers' sons, have practical lessons at home by helping +their father on the farm. The authorities being anxious +to help the farmer, they allow him to keep a boy at +home half the day for instruction in farm-work, but the +other half must be spent at school. The prizes at the +municipal schools not infrequently consist of clothes, +watches, clocks, or tools, all of which are worked for +eagerly by the pupils.</p> + +<p><a class='page' name='Page_80' id='Page_80' title='80'></a>The boys and girls of Denmark begin early with +gymnastic exercises, and soon become sturdy little +athletes from sheer love of the exhilarating practice. All +Danes pride themselves—and with good reason—on +their national athletic exercises. At the Olympic +Games, held at the Stadium in London, the Danish +ladies carried away the gold medal by their fine +gymnastic display. This was a triumph with so many +competitors in the field. It is an amusing sight to see +the Danes at a seaside resort taking their morning +swim; each one on leaving the water runs about on +the sun-warmed beach, and goes through a gymnastic +display on his own account, choosing the exercise +he considers most calculated to warm and invigorate +him after his dip. The children require no second +bidding to follow father's example, and as they emerge +from the water breathless, pantingly join in the fun. +Sons try to go one better than the father in some +gymnastic feat which the latter's stoutness renders +impossible! The merry peals of laughter which +accompany the display speak eloquently of the thorough +enjoyment of all the bathers.</p> + +<p>Yachting in Denmark is not merely a pleasure for +the rich, it is inexpensive, so all classes and every man +capable of sailing a boat can enjoy it. In the summer-time +the Sound and other waters seem alive with the +multitudes of white sails and speeding craft of all sizes. +The Øresund Week, as the Royal Yacht Club's regatta-week +is called, is the time of all others for yachtsmen to<a class='page' name='Page_81' id='Page_81' title='81'></a> +display their skill, and a gay event in the Copenhagener's +year. The pleasant waters of Denmark are beloved of +yachtsmen. Sailing round the wooded islands, you are +impressed by their picturesque beauty, which is seen to +advantage from the water. One is not surprised that +this popular pastime comes first with every Danish boy, +who, whether swimming, rowing, or sailing, feels +perfectly at home on the water. Everybody cycles in +Denmark. Cycle-stands are provided outside every shop, +station, office, and college, so that you have no more +difficulty in disposing of your cycle than your umbrella.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="WINTER_IN_THE_FOREST" id="WINTER_IN_THE_FOREST"></a> +<a class='fig' href="images/illus008.jpg"><img src="images/illus008-tb.jpg" width="400" height="488" alt="WINTER IN THE FOREST." title="WINTER IN THE FOREST. (click to enhance)" /></a> +<span class="caption">WINTER IN THE FOREST.</span> +</div> + +<p>Football is a summer game here—spirited matches +you would think impossible at this season—but the +Danes have them, and what is more, they will inform +you that they quite enjoy what appears to the spectator +a hot, fatiguing amusement. Cricket has few attractions +for the Danish lads, but that is because they +cannot play, though their schoolmasters and parents +would have them try. All things English are much +admired, and when a Dane intends to do a thing he +generally succeeds, so we can only suppose he is too +indifferent about cricket—although it is an English +game—to excel.</p> + +<p>Golf and hockey are also played, and "bandy"—<i>i.e.</i>, +hockey on the ice—is a favourite winter sport. A +"bandy" match is quite exciting to watch. The +players, armed with a wooden club, often find the ice a +difficulty when rushing after the solid rubber ball. This +exhilarating game is known in some parts of the world<a class='page' name='Page_82' id='Page_82' title='82'></a> +as "shinty." The Danes are proficient skaters, and of +late years an artificial ground for winter sport of all +kinds has been made in the Ulvedal, near Copenhagen. +Here they have "bandy" matches, ski-ing, and tobogganing, +as well as other winter games. Fox-hunting is +unknown in Denmark, but frequently foxes are included +in the sportsman's bag when shooting. These +are shot because it is necessary to keep Mr. Reynard's +depredations under control. Trotting-matches are held +on Sunday on the racecourse near Charlottenlund, and +horse-racing takes place too. Lawn-tennis and croquet +are very popular, but the latter is the favourite pastime +of the Danish ladies.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a class='page' name='Page_83' id='Page_83' title='83'></a><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER XV</a></h2> + +<h3><a name="INGEBORGS_JOURNEY_THROUGH_SEELAND" id="INGEBORGS_JOURNEY_THROUGH_SEELAND"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">INGEBORG'S JOURNEY THROUGH SEELAND</a></h3> + + +<p>Funen, the island which lies between the Great and +Little Belts, is known as the "Garden of Denmark," +on account of its beauty and fertility. In Odense, the +capital, Ingeborg had lived happily all the fifteen +summers of her life. Now she was to have an unexpected +treat. Her grandfather intended taking her +with him on the morrow to see some of the historical +places in Seeland. Ingeborg loved history, and had +given her grandfather much pleasure by the knowledge +she displayed when showing him over her own church, +St. Knud's. This ancient Gothic Church is the +finest specimen of mediæval architecture in Denmark. +St. Knud, the grand-nephew of Canute the Great, +was slain before the altar while praying for his people. +This brave King could have saved himself by flight, +but would not, lest his subjects should suffer at the +hands of his enemies. He was canonized by the Pope, +and his brother built the church to his memory. Besides +being the shrine of St. Knud, this church is the burial-place +of King Christian II. and his Queen, as well as of +King Hans and his Consort. The beautiful altar-piece,<a class='page' name='Page_84' id='Page_84' title='84'></a> +given by Queen Christina, is of the most exquisite +workmanship, and took the artists many years to +execute.</p> + +<p>Ingeborg's excitement was great when she crossed +from Nyborg. She remembered that an army once +crossed this water on foot, so severe was the winter, and +that ice-breakers are still used occasionally. The girl +wished it was winter as she watched for the first time +the huge paddle-wheels of the steam-ferry ploughing +through the waters of the Great Belt. By the time +Korsör was reached, Herr Nielsen, her grandfather, +had made acquaintance with a student who was returning +to his college at Sorö, the town which they intended +making their first stopping-place. The student, whose +name was Hans, informed them that he lived at Ribe, a +quaint old town of South Jutland, left very much to +memories and the storks, but possessing a fine twelfth-century +Cathedral. The college at Sorö was founded +by Ludvig Holberg, the father of Danish comedy, who +left his fortune and library for that purpose. Hans +was proud of belonging to this college, as it had +educated many men of letters famous in Danish history.</p> + +<p>In the Cistercian Church of Sorö, Bishop Absalon, the +founder of Copenhagen, lies buried. It is said that +this Bishop's spirit appears, with menacing attitude, if +anyone desecrates the place by irreverence. Ludvig +Holberg is also buried in this cloister church, as well +as three Danish Kings.</p> + +<p>Ingemann the poet spent most of his time at this<a class='page' name='Page_85' id='Page_85' title='85'></a> +charming town, which stands on the lake of the Sorö Sö. +In the luxuriant beech-woods which surround the lake, +Saxo Grammaticus, the first historian of Denmark, was +wont to wander. Both these celebrated men also lie in +the old church, which Ingeborg felt was a fitting +resting-place for the noble dead.</p> + +<p>On the advice of Hans, Herr Nielsen took his +young grand-daughter to see the old convent church of +Ringsted. Here many Danish Kings were buried in +the twelfth, thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. The +interesting Romanesque Church of Kallundborg was +also visited. This Church, with its four octagonal +towers and a square tower in the middle, forms a +Greek cross. This is the most unique specimen of +mediæval architecture in the North.</p> + +<p>Ingeborg had long looked forward to seeing Roskilde +Cathedral, and the day was bright and sunny when they +arrived at the sleepy little town on the Roskilde Fjord. +This stately Cathedral, with its two tall pointed spires, +is called the "Westminster Abbey" of Denmark. +It is the burial-place of the Danish Royal Family: +thirty-three Kings and many Queens rest in it. A +beautiful alabaster tomb marks the resting-place of +Queen Margrethe, the famous Queen who united the +three Crowns—Norway, Sweden, and Denmark—and +was ever ambitious for the glory and development of +these countries. She ruled with wisdom and wonderful +diplomacy, and was the most powerful Queen Denmark +ever had. She has been called the "Semiramis of the<a class='page' name='Page_86' id='Page_86' title='86'></a> +North." Though the three crowns are still on the +shield of Denmark, the other two kingdoms were lost +to her in the sixteenth century. Queen Margrethe was +the daughter of Valdemar IV., known as "Atterdag," +because of his favourite proverb: "I Morgen er der +atter en Dag."<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> This powerful monarch kept his subjects +in such incessant turmoil by his numerous wars +for acquiring territory "that they had not time to eat"! +The Renaissance chapel erected by Christian IV., in +which his tomb stands, is very beautiful. This popular +monarch, alike celebrated as architect, sailor, and warrior, +was one of the most impressive figures in Danish history. +The mural paintings of the chapel represent scenes in +the life of this great King.</p> + +<p>Ingeborg was glad she remembered her history, +and could tell her grandfather so much as they went +through the Cathedral. He, however, informed her +that Frederik VII. was the last of the Kings of the +Oldenburg line, which had been on the throne of +Denmark for over four hundred years.</p> + +<p>The sarcophagus of the beloved Christian IX., father +of many European crowned heads, including Queen +Alexandra of England, is still kept covered with fresh +flowers. This King, whose memory is so revered in +all countries, inaugurated a new dynasty in Denmark. +The curious old clock at the western end of the cathedral +interested Ingeborg, and she watched with delight, +when it struck the hour of noon, St. George, mounted<a class='page' name='Page_87' id='Page_87' title='87'></a> +on his fiery steed, with many groans and stiff, jerky +movements, kill the dragon, which expired with a gruesome +death-rattle!</p> + +<p>In the thirteenth century this quiet town of Roskilde +was the capital, and the archiepiscopal see of Denmark. +An English Bishop, William of Roskilde, is supposed +to have built the Cathedral.</p> + +<p>We will now follow our little friend and her grandfather +to Frederiksborg Castle. The castle, with its +many towers and pinnacles reflected in still waters, +stands in the middle of a lake. This handsome Dutch +Renaissance building is now used as an historical +museum. Many of the Danish Kings have been +crowned in its magnificent chapel. Wandering through +the splendid rooms of the castle, Ingeborg could read +the history of her country in a very pleasant and +interesting manner. The collection being confined to +one period for each room made instruction an easy +affair for the grandfather. Beginning with King Gorm +the Old and Canute the Great, it comprises all periods +up to the last century.</p> + +<p>The autumn residence of the Royal Family, Fredensborg +Castle, was the next place of interest visited. +This Castle of Peace was built to commemorate the +end of the war between Denmark and Sweden. +"Fred" means "peace" in Danish, and, indeed, this +place proves a home of peace to tired Royalty. Its +park is considered the most beautiful in Denmark. +The magnificent avenues of lime-trees are lined by<a class='page' name='Page_88' id='Page_88' title='88'></a> +marble statues of peasants in national costumes, +Faroese, Icelandic and Norwegian, as well as those of +Denmark.</p> + +<p>The Open-Air Museum at Lyngby, with its ancient +farm and peasant buildings, the interiors of which are +fitted up just as they used to be, gave Ingeborg a peep +into the past and old-time Denmark. Here she saw +a curious rolling-pin hanging in the ingle-nook of the +farmhouse from the village of Ostenfeld. This wooden +pin, so her grandfather told her, was a Clogg Almanac +or Runic Calendar. It had four sides, each marking +three months, large notches denoting Sundays, small +ones showing week-days. Saints' days were marked +by the symbol of each saint. He had seen some of +these old calendars in the Ashmolean Museum at +Oxford, when he had been in England, which were +relics of Danish government there. These quaint and +curious Clogg Almanacs were used throughout Scandinavia, +small ones made of horn or bone being for +the pocket.</p> + +<p>But here we must say good-bye to Ingeborg and +her grandfather, as after seeing Kronborg Castle and +Elsinore they will return by the beautiful coast-line to +Copenhagen, there to enjoy many of the sights we have +seen in "dear little Denmark."</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class='footnotes'> +<h2><a name="FOOTNOTES" id="FOOTNOTES"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">FOOTNOTES:</a></h2> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Thank you for the food.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> May it agree with you.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Spoon-food.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> Luncheon.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Be so good.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> Birthday child.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> Impenetrable swamp.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> The sharp, dry, north-west wind which blows in the spring.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Retreat of wild-duck.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> Blue Tower.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> To-morrow comes another day.</p></div> +</div> + + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DENMARK***</p> +<p>******* This file should be named 20107-h.txt or 20107-h.zip *******</p> +<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> +<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/0/1/0/20107">http://www.gutenberg.org/2/0/1/0/20107</a></p> +<p>Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed.</p> + +<p>Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution.</p> + + + +<pre> +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/license">http://www.gutenberg.org/license)</a>. + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS,' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at http://www.gutenberg.org/about/contact + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. +To donate, please visit: http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +Each eBook is in a subdirectory of the same number as the eBook's +eBook number, often in several formats including plain vanilla ASCII, +compressed (zipped), HTML and others. + +Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks replace the old file and take over +the old filename and etext number. The replaced older file is renamed. +VERSIONS based on separate sources are treated as new eBooks receiving +new filenames and etext numbers. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + +<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org">http://www.gutenberg.org</a> + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + +EBooks posted prior to November 2003, with eBook numbers BELOW #10000, +are filed in directories based on their release date. If you want to +download any of these eBooks directly, rather than using the regular +search system you may utilize the following addresses and just +download by the etext year. + +<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/etext06/">http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/etext06/</a> + + (Or /etext 05, 04, 03, 02, 01, 00, 99, + 98, 97, 96, 95, 94, 93, 92, 92, 91 or 90) + +EBooks posted since November 2003, with etext numbers OVER #10000, are +filed in a different way. The year of a release date is no longer part +of the directory path. The path is based on the etext number (which is +identical to the filename). The path to the file is made up of single +digits corresponding to all but the last digit in the filename. For +example an eBook of filename 10234 would be found at: + +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/0/2/3/10234 + +or filename 24689 would be found at: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/4/6/8/24689 + +An alternative method of locating eBooks: +<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/GUTINDEX.ALL">http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/GUTINDEX.ALL</a> + +*** END: FULL LICENSE *** +</pre> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/20107-h/images/illus001-tb.jpg b/20107-h/images/illus001-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3bc574e --- /dev/null +++ b/20107-h/images/illus001-tb.jpg diff --git a/20107-h/images/illus001.jpg b/20107-h/images/illus001.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1bced4b --- /dev/null +++ b/20107-h/images/illus001.jpg diff --git a/20107-h/images/illus002-tb.jpg b/20107-h/images/illus002-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8c1f0ae --- /dev/null +++ b/20107-h/images/illus002-tb.jpg diff --git a/20107-h/images/illus002.jpg b/20107-h/images/illus002.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d8239c2 --- /dev/null +++ b/20107-h/images/illus002.jpg diff --git a/20107-h/images/illus003-tb.jpg b/20107-h/images/illus003-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ac8b25b --- /dev/null +++ b/20107-h/images/illus003-tb.jpg diff --git a/20107-h/images/illus003.jpg b/20107-h/images/illus003.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..665cc22 --- /dev/null +++ b/20107-h/images/illus003.jpg diff --git a/20107-h/images/illus004-tb.jpg b/20107-h/images/illus004-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2c61899 --- /dev/null +++ b/20107-h/images/illus004-tb.jpg diff --git a/20107-h/images/illus004.jpg b/20107-h/images/illus004.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b5b7dbc --- /dev/null +++ b/20107-h/images/illus004.jpg diff --git a/20107-h/images/illus005-tb.jpg b/20107-h/images/illus005-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..992658b --- /dev/null +++ b/20107-h/images/illus005-tb.jpg diff --git a/20107-h/images/illus005.jpg b/20107-h/images/illus005.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..88c4782 --- /dev/null +++ b/20107-h/images/illus005.jpg diff --git a/20107-h/images/illus006-tb.jpg b/20107-h/images/illus006-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..30d7f22 --- /dev/null +++ b/20107-h/images/illus006-tb.jpg diff --git a/20107-h/images/illus006.jpg b/20107-h/images/illus006.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..49716b6 --- /dev/null +++ b/20107-h/images/illus006.jpg diff --git a/20107-h/images/illus007-tb.jpg b/20107-h/images/illus007-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..931a46f --- /dev/null +++ b/20107-h/images/illus007-tb.jpg diff --git a/20107-h/images/illus007.jpg b/20107-h/images/illus007.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3984808 --- /dev/null +++ b/20107-h/images/illus007.jpg diff --git a/20107-h/images/illus008-tb.jpg b/20107-h/images/illus008-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5f6c52d --- /dev/null +++ b/20107-h/images/illus008-tb.jpg diff --git a/20107-h/images/illus008.jpg b/20107-h/images/illus008.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..26a477a --- /dev/null +++ b/20107-h/images/illus008.jpg diff --git a/20107-h/images/map-tb.png b/20107-h/images/map-tb.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..97c7211 --- /dev/null +++ b/20107-h/images/map-tb.png diff --git a/20107-h/images/map.png b/20107-h/images/map.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c3c5af0 --- /dev/null +++ b/20107-h/images/map.png diff --git a/20107.txt b/20107.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..cde26a8 --- /dev/null +++ b/20107.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2579 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Denmark, by M. Pearson Thomson, Illustrated +by F. J. Hyldahl + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Denmark + + +Author: M. Pearson Thomson + + + +Release Date: December 13, 2006 [eBook #20107] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DENMARK*** + + +E-text prepared by Juliet Sutherland, Ralph Janke, and the Project +Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net/) + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 20107-h.htm or 20107-h.zip: + (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/0/1/0/20107/20107-h/20107-h.htm) + or + (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/0/1/0/20107/20107-h.zip) + + +Transcriber's notes: + + Text that is printed in italic style in the original is + enclosed between underscores (_italic text_) + + The section of the book about Norway is not included. + + + + + +Peeps at Many Lands + +NORWAY +BY LIEUT.-COL. A. F. MOCKLER-FERRYMAN, +F.R.G.S., F.Z.S. + +and + +DENMARK +BY M. PEARSON THOMSON + +With Sixteen Full-Page Illustrations +in Colour + + + + + + + +The MacMillan Company +64 & 66 Fifth Avenue, New York +1921 + + + + +DENMARK + +[Illustration: SKETCH-MAP OF DENMARK.] + + + + +CONTENTS + + +DENMARK + +_By M. Pearson Thomson_ + + I. MERRY COPENHAGEN--I 1 + + II. MERRY COPENHAGEN--II 6 + + III. HANS ANDERSEN--THE "FAIRY-TALE" OF HIS LIFE 12 + + IV. FAMOUS DANES 18 + + V. LEGENDARY LORE AND FOLK-DANCES 25 + + VI. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 32 + + VII. A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND--I 39 + +VIII. A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND--II 45 + + IX. THE PEOPLE'S AMUSEMENTS 51 + + X. FARM LIFE--BUTTER-MAKING--"HEDESELSKABET" 54 + + XI. SOLDIERS AND SAILORS 59 + + XII. THE PEOPLE OF THE ISLES 66 + +XIII. FISHERMEN AT HOME AND AFLOAT 72 + + XIV. YOUTHFUL DANES AT WORK AND PLAY 78 + + XV. INGEBORG'S JOURNEY THROUGH SEELAND 83 + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS + + + + +DENMARK + +_By F. J. Hyldahl_ + + FACING PAGE + +FLOWER MARKET IN COPENHAGEN 9 + +DRAGOeR PEASANT 16 + +CHILDREN'S DAY 33 + +HARVEST-TIME 40 + +VAGT-PARADEN 57 + +SUNDAY IN THE ISLAND OF LAESOe 64 + +SKAGEN FISHERMAN NEAR THE TOWER OF BURIED CHURCH 73 + +WINTER IN THE FOREST 80 + +_Sketch-Map, page ii, Denmark Section._ + + + + + + + + + +DENMARK + + + + +CHAPTER I + +MERRY COPENHAGEN--I + + +Copenhagen, the metropolis of Denmark, is a large and flourishing city, +with all the modern improvements of a commercial capital. It has an +atmosphere of its own, an atmosphere of friendliness and gaiety, +particularly appreciated by English people, who in "Merry Copenhagen" +always feel themselves at home. + +The approach to this fine city from the North by the Cattegat is very +charming. Sailing through the Sound, you come upon this "Athens of the +North" at its most impressive point, where the narrow stretch of water +which divides Sweden and Denmark lies like a silvery blue ribbon between +the two countries, joining the Cattegat to the Baltic Sea. In summer the +sparkling, blue Sound, of which the Danes are so justly proud, is alive +with traffic of all kinds. Hundreds of steamers pass to and from the +North Sea and Baltic, carrying their passengers and freights from +Russia, Germany, Finland, and Sweden, to the whole world. In olden times +Denmark exacted toll from these passing ships, which the nations found +irksome, but the Danes most profitable. This "Sundtold" was abolished +finally at the wish of the different nations using this "King's +highway," who combined to pay a large lump sum to Denmark, in order that +their ships might sail through the Sound without this annoyance in +future. + +Kronborg Castle, whose salute demanded this toll in olden days, still +rears its stately pinnacles against the blue sky, and looking towards +the old fortress of Kjaernan, on the Swedish coast, seems to say, "Our +glory is of a bygone day, and in the land of memories." + +Elsinore, the ancient town which surrounds this castle, is well known to +English and American tourists as the supposed burial-place of Hamlet, +the Prince of Denmark immortalized by Shakespeare. Kronborg Castle is +interesting to us, in addition, as being the place where Anne of Denmark +was married by proxy to James I. of England. Here, also, the "Queen of +Tears," Caroline Matilda, sister of George III., spent some unhappy +months in prison, gazing sadly over the Sound, waiting for the English +ships to come and deliver her. + +We pass up the Sound viewing the luxuriant cool green beech-woods of +Denmark, and the pretty fishing villages lying in the foreground. Villas +with charming gardens--their tiny rickety landing-stages, bathing sheds, +and tethered boats, adding fascination to the homely scene--seem to +welcome us to this land of fairy tales and the home of Hans Andersen. + +The many towers and pinnacles of Copenhagen, with the golden dome of the +Marble Church, flash a welcome as we steam into the magnificent harbour +of this singularly well-favoured city. Here she stands, this "Queen of +the North," as a gracious sentinel bowing acquiescence to the passing +ships as they glide in and out of the Baltic. The broad quays are +splendidly built, lined with fine warehouses, and present a busy scene +of commercial activity. The warships lying at their moorings in the +Sound denote that this is the station of the fleet; here also we see the +country's only fortress--the formidable bulwarks which surround the +harbour. + +Kjoebenhavn in Danish means "merchants' harbour," and as early as the +eleventh century it was a trading centre for foreign merchants attracted +by the rich supply of herrings found by the Danish fishermen in the +Baltic. Bishop Absalon was the founder of the city. This warrior Bishop +strongly fortified the place, in 1167, on receiving the little +settlement from King Valdemar the Great, and had plenty to do to hold +it, as it was continually harassed by pirates and the Wends. These, +however, found the Bishop more than a match for them. His outposts would +cry, "The Wends are coming!" and the Bishop would leave his preaching, +his bed, or anything else he might be doing, gather his forces together, +and fight gallantly for his little stronghold. He perhaps recognized +that this might one day be the key to the Baltic, which it has since +become. + +This city, therefore, is not a new one, but bombardment and +conflagrations are responsible for its modern appearance. Fortunately, +some of the handsome edifices raised during the reign of Christian IV. +(1588-1648) still remain to adorn the city. This monarch was a great +architect, sailor, warrior, and King, and is one of the most striking +figures in Danish history. He was beloved by his people, and did much +for his kingdom. The buildings planned and erected during this monarch's +reign are worthy of our admiration. The beautiful Exchange, with its +curious tower formed by four dragons standing on their heads, and +entwining their tails into a dainty spire; Rosenborg Castle, with its +delicate pinnacles; the famous "Runde Taarn" (Round Tower), up whose +celebrated spiral causeway Peter the Great is said to have driven a +carriage and pair, are amongst the most noteworthy. The originality in +design of the spires and towers of Copenhagen is quite remarkable. Vor +Frelsers Kirke, or Church of Our Saviour, has an outside staircase, +running round the outside of its spire, which leads up to a figure of +our Saviour, and from this height you get a fine view of the city. The +tower of the fire-station, in which the fire-hose hangs at full length; +the copper-sheathed clock and bell tower--the highest in Denmark--of the +Town Hall; the Eiffel-like tower of the Zoo, are among the most +singular. In all these towers there is a beautiful blending of copper +and gold, which gives a distinctive and attractive character to the +city. Other prominent features are the pretty fish-scale tiling, and the +copper and bronze roofs of many of the buildings, with their "stepped" +gables. Charming, too, are the city's many squares and public gardens, +canals with many-masted ships making an unusual spectacle in the +streets. But, after all, it is perhaps the innate gaiety of the +Copenhagener which impresses you most. You feel, indeed, that these +kindly Danes are a little too content for national development; but +their light-hearted way of viewing life makes them very pleasant +friends, and their hospitality is one of their chief characteristics. +Every lady at the head of a Danish household is an excellent cook and +manager, as well as being an agreeable and intelligent companion. The +Copenhagener is a "flat" dweller, and the dining-room is the largest and +most important room in every home. The Dane thinks much of his dinner, +and dinner-parties are the principal form of entertainment. They joke +about their appreciation of the good things of the table, and say, "a +turkey is not a good table-bird, as it is a little too much for one +Dane, but not enough for two!" A very pleasant side of Copenhagen life +has sprung up from this appreciation, for the restaurants and cafes are +numerous, and cater well for their customers. While the Dane eats he +must have music, which, like the food, must be good; he is very +critical, and a good judge of both. This gay cafe and restaurant life is +one of the fascinations of Denmark's "too-large heart," as this pleasant +capital is called by its people. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +MERRY COPENHAGEN--II + + +The climate of Copenhagen is delightful in summer, but quite the reverse +in winter. Andersen says "the north-east wind and the sunbeams fought +over the 'infant Copenhagen,' consequently the wind and the 'mud-king' +reign in winter, the sunbeams in summer, and the latter bring +forgetfulness of winter's hardships." Certainly, when the summer comes, +the sunshine reigns supreme, and makes Copenhagen bright and pleasant +for its citizens. Then the many water-ways and canals, running up from +the sea as they do into the heart of the city, make it delightfully +refreshing on a hot day. Nyhavn, for instance, which opens out of the +Kongen's Nytorv--the fashionable centre of the town--is one of the +quaintest of water-streets. The cobbled way on either side of the water, +the curious little shops with sailors' and ships' wares, old gabled +houses, fishing and cargo boats with their forests of masts, the little +puffing motor-boats plying to and fro--all serve to make a distinctive +picture. On another canal-side the fish-market is held every morning. A +Danish fish-market is not a bit like other fish-markets, for the Dane +must buy his fish alive, and the canal makes this possible. The +fishing-smacks line up the whole side of the quay; these have perforated +wooden boat-shaped tanks dragging behind them containing the lively +fish. The market-women sit on the quay, surrounded by wooden tubs, which +are half-filled with water, containing the unfortunate fish. A +trestle-table, on which the fish are killed and cleaned, completes the +equipment of the fish-wives. The customers scrutinize the contents of +the tub, choose a fish as best they can from the leaping, gasping +multitude, and its fate is sealed. When the market-women require more +fish, the perforated tank is raised from the canal, and the fish +extracted with a landing-net and deposited in their tubs. Small fish +only can be kept alive in tanks and tubs; the larger kinds, such as cod, +are killed and sold in the ordinary way. This market is not at all a +pleasant sight, so it is better to turn our backs on it, and pass on to +the fragrant flower-market. + +Here the famous Amager women expose their merchandise. This market +square is a gay spectacle, for the Dane is fond of flowers, and the +Amager wife knows how to display her bright blooms to advantage. These +vendors are notable characters. They are the descendants of the Dutch +gardeners brought over by Christian II. to grow fruit and vegetables for +Copenhagen, and settled on the fertile island of Amager which abuts on +the city. Every morning these Amager peasants may be seen driving their +laden carts across the bridge which joins their island to the mainland. +These genial, stout, but sometimes testy Amager wives have it all their +own way in the market-place, and are clever in attracting and befooling +a customer. So it has become a saying, if you look sceptical about what +you are told, the "story-teller" will say, "Ask Amager mother!" which +means, "Believe as much as you like." These women still wear their +quaint costume: bulky petticoats, clean checked apron, shoulder-shawl, +and poke-bonnets with white kerchief over them; and the merry twinkle of +satisfaction in the old face when a good bargain has been completed +against the customer's inclination is quite amusing. These interesting +old characters are easily irritated, and this the little Copenhageners +know full well. When stalls are being packed for departure, a naughty +band of urchins will appear round the corner and call out: + + "Amager mother, Amager mo'er, + Give us carrots from your store; + You are so stout and roundabout, + Please tell us if you find the door + Too small to let you through!" + +The Amager wife's wrath is soon roused, and she is often foolish enough +to try and move her bulky proportions somewhat quicker than usual in +order to catch the boys. This of course she never manages to do, for +they dart away in all directions. By this means the Amager woman gets a +little much-needed exercise, the boys a great deal of amusement. + +[Illustration: THE FLOWER MARKET, COPENHAGEN.] + +Sunday is a fete-day in Copenhagen, and the Dane feels no obligation to +attend a Church service before starting out on his Sunday expedition. A +day of leisure means a day of pleasure to the Copenhagener. The State +helps and encourages him by having cheap fares, and good but inexpensive +performances at the theatre and places of entertainment on Sunday. Even +the poorest people manage to spare money for this periodical outing, +mother and children taking their full share in the simple pleasures of +the day. The Copenhagener looks forward to this weekly entertainment, +and longs for the fresh air. This is not surprising, for many homes are +stuffy, ventilation and open windows not seeming a necessity. A fine +summer Sunday morning sees a leisurely stream of people--the Danes never +hurry themselves--making for tram, train, or motor-boat, which will +carry them off to the beautiful woods and shores lying beyond the city. +Basking in the sunshine, or enjoying a stroll through the woods, +feasting on the contents of their picnic baskets, with a cup of coffee +or glass of pilsener at a cafe where music is always going on, they +spend a thoroughly happy day. In the evening the tired but still joyous +throng return home, all the better for the simple and pleasant outing. +No country uses the bicycle more than Denmark, and Sunday is the day +when it is used most. For the people who prefer to take their dinner at +home on Sunday there is the pleasant stroll along the celebrated +Langelinie. This famous promenade, made upon the old ramparts, +overlooks the Sound with its innumerable yachts skimming over the blue +water, and is a delightful place for pedestrians. A walk round the moat +of the Citadel, on the waters of which the children sail their little +boats, is also enjoyable. This Citadel, now used as barracks, was built +by Frederik III. in 1663, and formerly served as a political prison. +Struensee, the notorious Prime Minister, was imprisoned here and +beheaded for treason. A few narrow, picturesque streets surrounding this +fort are all that remain of old Copenhagen. + +The art treasures contained in the museums of Copenhagen being renowned, +I must tell you a little about them. Two or three of the palaces not now +required by the Royal Family are used to store some of these treasures. +Rosenborg Castle, built by Christian IV., and in which he died, contains +a collection of family treasures belonging to the Oldenburg dynasty. +This historical collection of these art-loving Kings is always open to +the public. Besides Thorvaldsen's Museum, which contains the greater +portion of his works, there is the Carlsberg Glyptotek, which contains +the most beautiful sculpture of the French School outside France. The +Danish Folk-Museum is another interesting collection. This illustrates +the life and customs of citizens and peasants from the seventeenth +century to the present day, partly by single objects, and partly by +representations of their dwellings. The "Kunstmusaeet" contains a superb +collection of pictures, sculpture, engravings, and national relics. +Here a table may be seen which formerly stood in Christian II.'s prison. +History tells how the unhappy King was wont to pace round this table for +hours taking his daily exercise, leaning upon his hand, which in time +ploughed a groove in its hard surface. The Amalienborg, a fine +tessellated square, contains four Royal palaces, in one of which our +Queen Alexandra spent her girlhood. From the windows of these palaces +the daily spectacle of changing the guard is witnessed by the King and +young Princes. + +Copenhagen is celebrated for its palaces, its parks, porcelain, +statuary, art-treasures, and last, but not least, its gaiety. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +HANS CHRISTIAN ANDERSEN, THE "FAIRY TALE" OF HIS LIFE + + +I suppose the Dane best known to English boys and girls is Hans +Christian Andersen, whose charming fairy-tales are well known and loved +by them all. Most of you, however, know little about his life, but are +interested enough in him, I dare say, to wish to learn more, especially +as the knowledge will give you keener delight--if that is possible--in +reading the works of this "Prince of Story-tellers." + +Andersen himself said: "My life has been so wonderful and so like a +fairy-tale, that I think I had a fairy godmother who granted my every +wish, for if I had chosen my own life's way, I could not have chosen +better." + +Hans C. Andersen was the son of a poor shoemaker, an only child, born in +Odense, the capital of the Island of Funen. His parents were devoted to +him, and his father, who was of a studious turn of mind, delighted in +teaching his little son and interesting him in Nature. Very early in +life Hans was taken for long Sunday rambles, his father pointing out to +him the beauties of woods and meadows, or enchanting him with stories +from the "Arabian Nights." + +At home the evenings were spent in dressing puppets for his favourite +show, or else, sitting on his father's knee, he listened while the +latter read aloud to his mother scenes from Holberg's plays. All day +Hans played with his puppet theatre, and soon began to imagine plays and +characters for the dolls, writing out programmes for them as soon as he +was able. Occasionally his grandmother would come and take the child to +play in the garden of the big house where she lived in the gardener's +lodge. These were red-letter days for little Hans, as he loved his +granny and enjoyed most thoroughly the pleasant garden and pretty +flowers. + +The boy's first great trouble came when his father caught a fever and +died, leaving his mother without any means of support. To keep the +little home together his mother went out washing for her neighbours, +leaving little Hans to take care of himself. Being left to his own +devices, Hans developed his theatrical tendencies by constructing +costumes for his puppets, and making them perform his plays on the stage +of his toy theatre. Soon he varied this employment by reading plays and +also writing some himself. His mother, though secretly rejoicing in her +son's talent, soon saw the necessity for his doing something more +practical with his time and assisting her to keep the home together. So +at twelve years of age Hans was sent to a cloth-weaving factory, where +he earned a small weekly wage. The weavers soon discovered that Hans +could sing, and the men frequently made him amuse them, while the other +boys were made to do his work. One day the weavers played a coarse +practical joke on poor sensitive Hans, which sent him flying home in +such deep distress that his mother said he should not again return to +the factory. + +Hans was now sent to the parish school for a few hours daily, and his +spare time was taken up with his "peep-show" and in fashioning smart +clothes for his puppets. His mother intended to apprentice her son to +the tailoring, but Hans had fully made up his mind to become an actor +and seek his fortune in Copenhagen. After his Confirmation--on which +great occasion he wore his father's coat and his first new boots--his +mother insisted on his being apprenticed without further delay. With +difficulty he finally succeeded in persuading her to let him start for +the capital with his few savings. His mother had married again, so could +not accompany him; therefore, with reluctance and with many injunctions +to return at once if all did not turn out well, she let him go. +Accompanying him to the town gate, they passed a gipsy on the way, who, +on being asked what fortune she could prophesy for the poor lad, said he +would return a great man, and his native place would be illuminated and +decorated in his honour! + +Hans arrived in Copenhagen on September 5, a date which he considered +lucky for ever after. A few days in the city soon saw an end to his +money. He applied and got work at a carpenter's shop, but was driven +away by the coarseness of his fellow-workers. Hans made a friend of the +porter at the stage-door of the theatre, and begged for some employment +in the theatre; so occasionally he was allowed to walk across the stage +in a crowd, but obtained scanty remuneration, and the lad was often +hungry. Starving and destitute, the happy idea occurred to our hero to +try and earn something by his voice. He applied to Siboni, the Director +of the Music School, and was admitted to his presence whilst the latter +was at dinner. Fortunately for Hans, Baggersen the poet and Weyse the +celebrated composer were of the party, so for their amusement the boy +was asked to sing and recite. Weyse was so struck by the quality of his +voice and Baggersen with his poetic feeling, that they made a collection +among them there and then for him, and Siboni undertook to train his +voice. Unfortunately, in six months' time his voice gave way, and Siboni +counselled him to learn a trade. Hans returned to the theatre in the +hope of employment, and his persistence finally gained him a place in a +market scene. Making a friend of the son of the librarian, he obtained +permission to read at the library, and he wrote tragedies and plays, +some of which he took to the director of the theatre. This man became +Andersen's friend for life, for the grains of gold which he saw in his +work, marred though it was by want of education, roused his interest. +The director brought Andersen to the notice of the King, and he was sent +to the Latin school, where he took his place--although now a grown +man--among the boys in the lowest class but one. The master's tongue was +sharp, and the sensitive youth was dismayed by his own ignorance. The +kindness and sympathetic encouragement of the director was the only +brightness of this period of Hans' life. University life followed that +of school, and Andersen took a good degree. He now wrote a play, which +was accepted and produced at the theatre with such success that he wept +for joy. Soon his poems were published, and happiness and prosperity +followed. Later the King granted him a travelling stipend, of forty-five +pounds a year, and travelling became his greatest pleasure. Andersen +visited England two or three times, and reckoned Charles Dickens among +his friends. He was the honoured guest of Kings and Princes, and the +Royal Family of Denmark treated him as a personal friend. + +Though his "Fairy Tales" are the best known of his writings, he wrote +successful novels, dramas and poems. Andersen's tastes were simple, and +his child-like, affectionate nature made him much beloved by all. His +native town, which he left as a poor boy, was illuminated and decorated +to welcome his return. Thus the gipsy's prophecy came true. He died +after the public celebration of his seventieth birthday, leaving all his +fortune to the family of his beloved benefactor, the director of the +theatre. A beautiful bronze monument is erected to his memory in the +children's garden of the King's Park, Copenhagen. Here the little Danes +have ever a gentle reminder of their great friend, Hans C. Andersen, who +felt--to use his own words--"like a poor boy who had had a King's mantle +thrown over him." + +[Illustration: DRAGOeR PEASANT.] + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +FAMOUS DANES + + +Bertel Thorvaldsen (1770-1844), the famous Danish sculptor, was born in +Copenhagen. His father was an Icelander, his mother a Dane, and both +very poor. Bertel's ambition when a little boy was to work his mother's +spinning-wheel, which, of course, he was never permitted to do. One +bright, moonlight night his parents were awakened by a soft, whirring +sound, and found their little son enjoying his realized ambition. In the +moonlit room he had successfully started the wheel and begun to spin, +much to his parents' astonishment. This was the beginning of his +creative genius, but many years went over his youthful head before he +created the works which made him famous. His father carved wooden +figure-heads for ships, and intended his son to follow the same calling. +Bertel, however, soon showed talent and inclination for something +better, and was sent to the Free School of the Art Academy, there making +great progress. He received very little education beyond what the Art +School gave him, and his youthful days were hard and poverty-stricken. +When his hours at the Academy were over he went from house to house +trying to sell his models, and in this way eked out a scanty living. In +spite of his poverty he was wholly satisfied, for his wants were few. +His dog and his pipe, both necessities for happiness, accompanied him in +all his wanderings. + +His true artistic career only began in earnest when he won a travelling +scholarship and went to Rome, where he arrived on his twenty-seventh +birthday. Stimulated to do his best by the many beautiful works of art +which surrounded him, he found production easy, and the classical beauty +of the Roman school appealed to him. Regretting his wasted years, he set +to work in great earnest, and during the rest of his life produced a +marvellous amount of beautiful work. A rich Scotsman bought his first +important work, and the money thus obtained was the means of starting +him firmly on his upward career. This highly talented Dane founded the +famous Sculpture School of Denmark, which is of world-wide reputation. +Thorvaldsen's beautiful designs--which were mainly classical--were +conceived with great rapidity, and his pupils carried many of them out, +becoming celebrated sculptors also. Dying suddenly in 1844, while seated +in the stalls of the theatre watching the play, his loss was a national +calamity. He bequeathed all his works to the nation, and these now form +the famous Thorvaldsen Museum, which attracts the artistic-loving people +of all nations to the city of Copenhagen. + +In the courtyard of this museum lies the great man's simple grave, his +beautiful works being contained in the building which surrounds it. + +At the top of this Etruscan tomb stands a fine bronze allegorical +group--the Goddess of Victory in her car, drawn by prancing +horses--fitting memorial to this greatest of northern sculptors. + +Holger Drachmann was the son of a physician, and quite early in life +became a man of letters. Following the profession of an artist, he +became a very good marine painter. This poet loved the sea in all its +moods, and was never happier than when at Skagen--the extreme northern +point of Jutland--where he spent most of his summers. His painting was +his favourite pastime, but poetry the serious work of his life. He was a +very prolific writer, not only of verse and lyrical poems, but of plays +and prose works, and was a very successful playwright. Drachmann's +personality was a strong one, though not always agreeable to his +countrymen. He had a freedom-loving spirit, and lived every moment of +his life. Some of his best poems are about the Skaw fishermen, and later +in life he settled down among them, dying at Skagen in 1907. He was a +picturesque figure, with white flowing locks, erratic and unpractical, +as poets often are. Like other famous Danes, he chose a unique +burial-place. Away at Grenen, in the sand-dunes, overlooking the +fighting waters of the Skagerack and Cattegat, stands his +cromlech-shaped tomb, near the roar of the sea he loved so much, where +time and sand will soon obliterate all that remains of the Byron of +Denmark. + +Nikolai Frederik Grundtvig, the founder of the popular high-schools for +peasants, was born at his father's parsonage, Udby, South Seeland. He +was sent to school in Jutland, and soon learned to love his wild native +moors. While attending the Latin School in Aarhus he made friends with +an old shoemaker, who used to tell him interesting stories of the old +Norse heroes and sagas, often repeating the old Danish folk-songs. The +lad being a true Dane, a descendant of the old vikings, he soon became +very interested in the history of his race. Being sent to the University +of Copenhagen, he chose to study Icelandic in order to read the ancient +sagas, English to read Shakespeare, and German to read Goethe. This +studious youth was most patriotic, and the poetry of his country +appealed to him especially. Oehlenschlaeger's (a Danish poet) works fired +his poetical imagination. + +Grundtvig's poems were for the people, the beloved Jutland moors and +Nature generally his theme. His songs and poems are loved by the +peasants, and used at all their festivals. He wrote songs "that would +make bare legs skip at sound of them," and, "like a bird in the +greenwood, he would sing for the country-folk." So successfully did he +write these folk-songs, that "bare legs" do skip at the sound of them +even to-day at every festivity. He was an educational enthusiast, and +his high-schools are peculiar to Denmark. It is owing to these that the +country possesses such a splendid band of peasant farmers. Being a +priest, he was given the honorary title of Bishop, and founded a sect +called "Grundtvigianere." + +This noble man died in 1872, over ninety years of age, working and +preaching till the last, his deep-set eyes, flowing white hair and +beard, making him look like Moses of old. + +Adam Oehlenschlaeger, the greatest Danish dramatist and poet, was a +Professor at the University of Copenhagen, and a marvellously gifted +man. He developed and gave character to Danish literature, and is known +as the "Goethe of the North." Some of his finest tragedies have been +translated into English. These have a distinctly northern ring about +them, dealing as they do with the legends and sagas of the Scandinavian +people. These tragedies of the mythical heroes of Scandinavia, the +history of their race, and, indeed, all the works of this king of +northern poets, are greatly loved by all Scandinavians. Every young Dane +delights in Oehlenschlaeger as we do in Shakespeare, and by reading his +works the youths of Denmark lay the foundation of their education in +poetry. This bard was crowned Laureate in Lund (Sweden) by the greatest +of Swedish poets, Esaias Tegner, 1829. Buried by his own request at his +birth-place, Frederiksberg, two Danish miles (which means eight English +miles) from Copenhagen, his loving countrymen insisted on carrying him +the whole distance, so great was their admiration for this King of +dramatists. + +Niels Ryberg Finsen, whose name I am sure you have heard because his +scientific research gave us the "light-cure"--which has been established +at the London Hospital by our Queen Alexandra, who generously gave the +costly apparatus required for the cure in order to benefit afflicted +English people--was born at Thorshavn, the capital of the Faroe Islands. +These islands are under Denmark, and lie north of the Shetlands. His +father was magistrate there. His parents were Icelanders. At twelve +years of age Niels was sent to school in Denmark, and after a few years +at the Grammar School of Herlufholm, he returned to his parents, who +were now stationed in their native town, Reykjavik, the capital of +Iceland. Niels continued his studies there, and when old enough returned +to Denmark to commence his medical work at the University of Copenhagen. + +Hitherto he had shown no particular aptitude, but in his medical work he +soon distinguished himself, and his skill gained him a place in the +laboratory. He now began to study the effect of light as a curative +remedy. All his life Finsen thought the sunlight the most beautiful +thing in the world--perhaps because he saw so little of it in his +childhood. He had watched its wonderful effect on all living things, +being much impressed by the transformation caused in nature by the warm +life-giving rays. With observations on lizards, which he found +charmingly responsive to sun effects, he accidentally made his +discovery, and gave to the world this famous remedy for diseases of the +skin, which has relieved thousands of sufferers of all nations. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +LEGENDARY LORE AND FOLK DANCES + + +The legend of Holger Danske, who is to be Denmark's deliverer when heavy +troubles come upon her, is one which has its counterpart in other +countries, resembling that of our own King Arthur and the German +Frederick Barbarossa. When Denmark's necessity demands, Holger Danske +will come to her aid; till then he sits "in the deep dark cellar of +Kronborg Castle, into which none may enter. He is clad in iron and +steel, and rests his head on his strong arms; his long beard hangs down +upon the marble table, into which it has become firmly rooted; he sleeps +and dreams. But in his dreams he sees all that happens in Denmark. On +each Christmas Eve an angel comes to him and tells him all he has +dreamed is true, and that he may sleep again in peace, as Denmark is not +yet in real danger. But should danger ever come, then Holger Danske will +rouse himself, and the table will burst asunder as he draws out his +beard. Then he will come forth in all his strength, and strike a blow +that shall sound in all the countries of the world." + +Holger Danske was the son of the Danish King Gotrick. While he was a +youth his father sent him to Carolus Magnus, whom he served during all +his wars. Thus he came to India, where he ate a fruit which made his +body imperishable. When Denmark is near ruin, and all her young men have +been slain in defending her, then Holger Danske will appear, and, +gathering round him all the young boys and aged men, will lead them on +to victory, routing the enemy, and thus saving the country. When a +little plant growing in the Lake of Viborg has become a tree, so large +that you can tie your horse to it, then the time draws near when all +this will happen. + +Once upon a time the Danes were in great trouble, for they had no King. +But one day they saw a barque, splendidly decked, sailing towards the +coast of Denmark. As the ship came nearer the shore they saw it was +laden with quantities of gold and weapons, but not a soul was to be seen +on board. When the Danes boarded the ship, they found a little boy lying +asleep on the deck, and above his head floated a golden banner. Thinking +that their god Odin had sent the boy, they brought him ashore and +proclaimed him King. They named him Skjold, and he became a great and +good King. His fame was such that the Danish Kings to this day are +called "Skjoldunger." When this King died, his body was placed on board +a ship which was loaded with treasure; and when it sailed slowly away +over the blue water, the Danes stood on the shore looking after it with +sorrow. What became of the ship no one ever knew. + +Denmark is rich in legends. There is the legend about the "Danebrog," +Denmark's national flag, which is a white cross on a crimson ground. +This bright and beautiful flag looks thoroughly at home whatever its +surroundings. The story goes that when Valdemar Seir (the Victorious) +descended on the shores of Esthonia to help the knights who were hard +pressed in a battle with the heathen Esthonians (1219), a miracle befell +him. The valour of his troops soon made an impression on the pagans, and +they began to sue for peace. It was granted, and the priests baptized +the supposed converts. Very soon, however, the Esthonians, who had been +secretly reinforcing while pretending submission, in order to throw dust +in the eyes of the too confiding Danes, brought up their forces and +commenced fighting anew. "It was the eve of St. Vitus, and the Danes +were singing Vespers in camp, when suddenly a wild howl rang through the +summer evening, and the heathens poured out of the woods, attacked the +surprised Danes on all sides, and quickly thinned their ranks. The Danes +began to waver, but the Prince of Rugen, who was stationed on the hill, +had time to rally his followers and stay the progress of the enemy. It +was a terrible battle. The Archbishop Andreas Sunesen with his priests +mounted the hill to lay the sword of prayer in the scales of battle; the +Danes rallied, and their swords were not blunt when they turned upon +their enemies. Whilst the Archbishop and others prayed, the Danes were +triumphant; but when his arms fell to his side through sheer weariness, +the heathens prevailed. Then the priests supported the aged man's arms, +who, like Moses of old, supplicated for his people with extended hands. +The battle was still raging, and the banner of the Danes had been lost +in the fight. As the prayers continued the miracle happened. A red +banner, with the Holy Cross in white upon it, came floating gently down +from the heavens, and a voice was heard saying, 'When this sign is borne +on high you shall conquer.' The tide of battle turned, the Christians +gathered themselves together under the banner of the Cross, and the +heathens were filled with fear and fled. Then the Danes knelt down on +the battle-field and praised God, while King Valdemar drew his sword, +and for the first time under the folds of the Danebrog dubbed +five-and-thirty of the bravest heroes knights." Another legend tells the +fate of a wicked Queen of Denmark, Gunhild by name. This Queen was first +the consort of a Norwegian monarch, who, finding her more than he or his +people could stand, thrust her out of his kingdom. She made her way to +Denmark, and soon after married the Danish King. Though beautiful, Queen +Gunhild's pride and arrogance made her hateful to her new subjects, and +her attendants watched their opportunity to rid themselves of such an +obnoxious mistress. The time came for them when the Queen was travelling +through Jutland. A sign was given to her bearers, whilst journeying +through the marshes near Vejle, to drop her down into the bog. This was +done, and a stake driven through her body. To-day in the church at Vejle +a body lies enclosed in a glass coffin, with a stake lying beside it, +the teeth and long black hair being in excellent preservation. This body +was found in 1821, when the marshes near Vejle were being drained for +cultivation. The stake was found through it, thus giving colour to the +tradition. Poor Queen! lost in the eleventh century and found in the +nineteenth. + + +_Folk-dancers._ + +The Danes, like all the Scandinavians, are renowned for their love of +dancing. Lately they have revived the beautiful old folk-dances, +realizing at last the necessity of keeping the ancient costumes, dances +and songs before the people, if they would not have them completely +wiped out. A few patriotic Danes have formed a society of ladies and +gentlemen to bring about this revival. These are called the +folk-dancers, their object being to stimulate the love of old-time +Denmark in the modern Dane, by showing him the dance, accompanied by +folk-song, which his forefathers delighted in. Old-time ways the Dane of +to-day is perhaps a little too ready to forget, but dance and song +appeal to his northern nature. The beautiful old costumes of the Danish +peasants have almost entirely disappeared, but those worn by the +folk-dancers are facsimiles of the costumes formerly worn in the +districts they represent. These costumes, with heavy gold embroidery, +curious hats, or pretty velvet caps, weighty with silver lace, must have +been a great addition to local colouring. The men also wore a gay dress, +and it is to be regretted that these old costumes have disappeared from +the villages and islands of Denmark. + +In olden times the voice was the principal accompaniment of the dance, +and these folk-lorists generally sing while dancing; but occasionally a +fiddler or flautist plays for them, and becomes the leader in the dance. +Some of these dances are of a comical nature, and no doubt were invented +to parody the shortcomings of some local character. Others represent +local industries. A pretty dance is "Voeve Vadmel" (cloth-weaving). In +this some dancers become the bobbins, others form the warp and woof; +thus they go in and out, weaving themselves into an imaginary piece of +cloth. Then, rolling themselves into a bale, they stand a moment, +unwind, reverse, and then disperse. This dance is accompanied by the +voices of the dancers, who, as they sing, describe each movement of the +dance. A very curious dance is called "Seven Springs," and its principal +figure is a series of springs from the floor, executed by the lady, +aided by her partner. Another two are called respectively the "Men's +Pleasure" and the "Girls' Pleasure." In these both men and girls choose +their own partners, and coquet with them by alluring facial expressions +during the dance. The "Tinker's Dance" is a solo dance for a man, which +is descriptive and amusing; while the "Degnedans" is more an amusing +performance in pantomime than a dance, executed by two men. Many more +than I can tell you about have been revived by the folk-dancers, who +take a keen delight in discovering and learning them. They are +entertaining and instructive to the looker-on, and a healthy, though +fatiguing, amusement for the dancers. + +In the Faroe Islands the old-time way is still in vogue, and the dance +is only accompanied by the voice and clapping of hands. Thus do these +descendants of the old vikings keep high festival to celebrate a good +"catch" of whales. + +The old folk-songs, which were sung by the people when dancing and at +other times, have a national value which the Danes fully realize, many +being written down and treasured in the country's archives. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +MANNERS AND CUSTOMS + + +The Danes being a polite and well-mannered race, the children are early +taught to tender thanks for little pleasures, and this they do in a +pretty way by thrusting out their tiny hands and saying, "Tak" (Thank +you). It is the Danish custom to greet everybody, including the +servants, with "Good-morning," and always on entering a shop you give +greeting, and say farewell on leaving. In the market-place it is the +same; also the children, when leaving school, raise their caps to the +teacher and call out, "Farvel! farvel!" In the majority of houses when +the people rise from the table they say, "Tak for Mad"[1] to the host, +who replies, "Velbekomme."[2] The children kiss their parents and say +the same, while the parents often kiss each other and say, "Velbekomme." +The Danes are rather too eager to wipe out old customs, and in +Copenhagen the fashionable people ignore this pretty ceremony. The +majority, however, feel uncomfortable if not allowed to thank their host +or hostess for their food. + +[Illustration: CHILDREN'S DAY.] + +A Danish lady, about to visit England for the first time, was told +that here it was customary to say "Grace" after meals. The surprise of +the English host may be imagined when his Danish guest, on rising from +the table, solemnly put out her hand and murmured the word "Grace!" +After a day or two, when this ceremony had been most dutifully performed +after every meal, the Englishman thought he had better ask for an +explanation. This was given, and the young Dane joined heartily in the +laugh against herself! + +The Danes begin their day with a light breakfast of coffee, fresh rolls, +and butter, but the children generally have porridge, or "oellebroed," +before starting for school. This distinctly Danish dish is made of +rye-bread, beer, milk, cream, and sometimes with the addition of a +beaten-up egg. This "Ske-Mad"[3] is very sustaining, but I fear would +prove a little too much for those unaccustomed to it. Ollebroed also is +the favourite Saturday supper-dish of the working-classes, with the +addition of salt herrings and slices of raw onion, which doubtless +renders it more piquant. + +At noon "Mid-dag"[4] is served. Another peculiar delicacy common both to +this meal and supper is "Smoerrebroed," a "variety" sandwich consisting of +a slice of bread and butter covered with sausage, ham, fish, meat, +cheese, etc. making a tempting display, not hidden as in our sandwich by +a top layer of bread. The Danes are very hospitable, and often invite +poor students to dine with them regularly once a week. Dinner consists +of excellent soup (in summer made of fruit or preserves), meat, pudding +or fruit, and cream, and even the poorest have coffee after this meal. + +Prunes, stewed plums or apples, and sometimes cranberry jam, are always +served with the meat or game course, together with excellent but rather +rich sauce. The Danish housewife prides herself on the latter, as her +cooking abilities are often judged by the quality of her sauces. It is +quite usual for the Danish ladies to spend some months in learning +cooking and housekeeping in a large establishment to complete their +education. + +"Vaer saa god"[5] says the maid or waiter when handing you anything, and +this formula is repeated by everyone when they wish you to enter a room, +or, in fact, to do anything. + +Birthdays and other anniversaries are much thought of in Denmark. The +"Foedelsdagsbarn"[6] is generally given pretty bouquets or pots of +flowers, as well as presents. Flowers are used on every joyous occasion. +Students, both men and women, may be seen almost covered with bright +nosegays, given by their friends to celebrate any examination +successfully passed. + +Christmas Eve, and not Christmas Day, is the festive occasion in +Denmark. Everybody, including the poorest, must have a Christmas-tree, +and roast goose, apple-cake, rice porridge with an almond in it, form +the banquet. The lucky person who finds the almond receives an extra +present, and much mirth is occasioned by the search. The tree is lighted +at dusk, and the children dance round it and sing. This performance +opens the festivities; then the presents are given, dinner served, and +afterwards the young people dance. + +Christmas Day is kept quietly, but the day after (St. Stephen's Day) is +one of merriment and gaiety, when the people go from house to house to +greet their friends and "skaal" with them. + +New Year's Eve brings a masque ball for the young folk, a supper, +fireworks, and at midnight a clinking of glasses, when healths are drunk +in hot punch. + +On Midsummer's Night fires are lighted all over the country, and people +gather together to watch the burning of the tar-barrels. Near a lake or +on the seashore the reflections glinting on the water make a strangely +brilliant sight. On some of the fjords a water carnival makes a pretty +addition to these fires, which the children are told have been lighted +to scare the witches! + +The Monday before Lent is a holiday in all the schools. Early in the +morning the children, provided with decorated sticks, "fastelavns Ris," +rouse their parents and others from slumber. All who are found asleep +after a certain time must pay a forfeit of Lenten buns. Later in the day +the children dress themselves up in comical costume and parade the +streets, asking money from the passer-by as our children do on Guy +Fawkes' Day. + +A holy-day peculiar to Denmark is called "Store-Bededag" (Great Day of +Prayer), on the eve of which (Danes keep eves of festivals only) the +church bells ring and the people promenade in their best clothes. +"Store-Bededag" is the fourth Friday after Easter, and all business is +at a standstill, so that the people can attend church. On Whit-Sunday +some of the young folks rise early to see the sun dance on the water and +wash their faces in the dew. This is in preparation for the greatest +holiday in the year, Whit-Monday, when all give themselves up to outdoor +pleasure. + +"Grundlovsdag," which is kept in commemoration of the granting of a free +Constitution to the nation by Frederik VII., gives the town bands and +trade-unions an opportunity to parade the streets and display their +capability in playing national music. "Children's Day" is a school +holiday, and the children dress in the old picturesque Danish costumes; +they then go about the town and market-places begging alms for the +sanatoriums in their collecting-boxes. In this way a large sum is +collected for these charities. + +"Knocking-the-cat-out-of-the-barrel" is an old custom of the peasantry +which takes place the Monday before Lent. The young men dress themselves +gaily, and, armed with wooden clubs, hie them to the village green. Here +a barrel is suspended with a cat inside it. Each man knocks the barrel +with his club as he runs underneath it, and he who knocks a hole big +enough to liberate poor puss is the victor. The grotesque costumes, the +difficulty of stooping and running under the barrel in them, when all +your energies and attention are required for the blow, result in many a +comical catastrophe, which the bystanders enjoy heartily. Puss is +frightened, but not hurt, and I think it would be just as amusing +without the cat, but the Danish peasants think otherwise. Another +pastime which takes place on the same day is called "ring-riding." The +men, wearing paper hats and gay ribbons, gallop round the course, trying +to snatch a suspended ring in passing. The man who takes the ring three +times in succession is called "King," he who takes it twice "Prince." +When the sport is over, King and Prince, with their train of +unsuccessful competitors, ride round to the farms and demand refreshment +for their gay cavalcade, of which "AEleskiver," a peasant delicacy, +washed down by a glass of aqua-vitae, forms a part. + +On the eve of "Valborg's Dag" (May-Day) bonfires are lighted, and the +young Danes have a dinner and dance given to them. Each dance is so long +that it is customary for the young men to change their partners two or +three times during the waltz. + +A beautiful custom is still preserved among the older peasantry: when +they cross the threshold of their neighbour's house they say, "God's +peace be in this house." + +All domestic servants, students, and other people who reside away from +home for a time, take about with them a chest of drawers as well as a +trunk. I suppose they find this necessary, because in Denmark a chest of +drawers is seldom provided in a bedroom. + +When the first snowdrops appear, the boys and girls gather some and +enclose them in a piece of paper, on which is written a poem. This +"Vintergaekke-Brev," which they post to their friends, is signed by +ink-spots, as numerous as the letters in their name. The friend must +guess the name of the sender within a week, or the latter demands a +gift. + +Confirmation means coming-out in Denmark. As this is the greatest +festival of youth, the young folk are loaded with presents; then girls +put up their hair and boys begin to smoke. + +The marriage of a daughter is an expensive affair for parents in +Denmark, as they are supposed to find all the home for the bride, as +well as the trousseau. The wedding-ring is worn by both while engaged, +as well as after the marriage ceremony. + +The Epiphany is celebrated in many homes by the burning of three +candles, and the children are given a holiday on this, the festival of +the Three Kings. No doubt you know this is a commemoration of the three +wise men of the East presenting their offerings of gold, frankincense, +and myrrh to our Lord. + +Storks are considered the sacred birds of Denmark. These harbingers of +good-luck the children take great interest in, and more especially in +the growth of the stork family on the roof-tree. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND--I + + +Jutland is the only province left to Denmark which can claim to be +mainland, and though it is the most northern part of the country, some +of its scenery is very beautiful. + +The "Jyde," as the people of Jutland are called, are proud of their +birthplace, of their language, and of their pronunciation, which the +Copenhageners call "accent," but the Jyde declare they speak the purest +Danish in the kingdom. However this may be, I am not in a position to +judge, but I do know that I can understand the Jyde Danish better, and +that it falls upon my ear with a more pleasing sound than does the +Danish of the Copenhageners. + +The east coast of Jutland is quite charming, so we will start our tour +from the first interesting spot on this route, and try to obtain a +glimpse of the country. + +In Kolding stands a famous castle, which was partially burnt down in +1808. This gigantic ruin is now covered in, and used as an historical +museum for war relics. + +Fredericia is a very important place. Here that part of the train which +contains the goods, luggage, and mails, as well as the first-class +passenger carriages for Copenhagen, is shunted on to the large steam +ferry-boat waiting to receive it. This carries it across the smiling +waters of the Little Belt. A fresh engine then takes it across the +island of Funen to the steam-ferry waiting to carry it across the Great +Belt to Korsoer, on the shores of Seeland, when a locomotive takes the +train to Copenhagen in the ordinary way. These steam-ferries are +peculiar to Denmark, and are specially built and equipped for this work. +Danish enterprise overcomes the difficulties of transport through a +kingdom of islands by these ferries. + +Fredericia is an old fortified town with mighty city walls, which make a +fine promenade for the citizens, giving them a charming view of the +Little Belt's sunlit waters. In this town the Danes won a glorious +victory over the Prussians in 1849. + +Vejle is one of the most picturesque places on the east coast. Along the +Vejlefjord the tall, straight pines of Jutland are reflected in the +cool, still depths of blue water, and the tiniest of puffing steamers +will carry you over to Munkebjerg. The fascinating and famous Munkebjerg +Forest is very beautiful--a romantic place in which the youthful lovers +of Denmark delight. These glorious beech woods extend for miles, the +trees sloping down to the water's edge from a high ridge, whence you +have a magnificent view of the glittering fjord. Most inviting are +these cool green shades on a hot summer's day, but when clothed in the +glowing tints of autumn they present to the eye a feast of gorgeous +colour. A golden and warm brown carpet of crisp, crackling leaves +underfoot, the lap of the fjord as a steamer ploughs along, sending the +water hissing through the bowing reeds which fringe the bank, make the +soothing sounds which fall on lovers' ears as they wander through these +pleasant glades. + +[Illustration: HARVEST TIME.] + +In winter this forest is left to the snow and hoarfrost, and cold, cairn +beauty holds it fast for many days. + +The pretty hotel of Munkebjerg, standing on the summit of the ridge, +which you espy through a clearing in the trees, is reached by some +scores of steps from the landing-stage. Patient "Moses," the hotel +luggage-carrier, awaits the prospective guests at the pier. This +handsome brown donkey is quite a character, and mounts gaily his own +private zigzag path leading to the hotel when heavily laden. His +dejection, however, when returning with empty panniers, is accounted for +by the circumstance of "No load, no carrot!" at the end of the climb. + +Grejsdal is another beautiful spot inland from the fjord, past which the +primitive local train takes us to Jellinge. In this quaint upland +village stand the two great barrows, the reputed graves of King Gorm and +Queen Thyra, his wife, the great-grandparents of Canute the Great, the +Danish King who ruled over England for twenty years. A beautiful Norman +church stands between these barrows, and two massive Runic stones tell +that "Harald the King commanded this memorial to be raised to Gorm, his +Father, and Thyra, his Mother: the Harald who conquered the whole of +Denmark and Norway, and Christianized the Danes." Steps lead to the top +of these grassy barrows, and so large are they that over a thousand men +can stand at the top. The village children use them as a playground +occasionally. + +Skanderborg, which is prettily situated on a lake, is a celebrated town. +Here a famous siege took place, in which the valiant Niels Ebbesen fell, +after freeing his country from the tyrannical rule of the German Count +Gert. + +Aarhus, the capital of Jutland, is the second oldest town in Denmark. +Its interesting cathedral is the longest in the kingdom, and was built +in the twelfth century. The town possesses a magnificent harbour, on the +Cattegat, the shores of which make a pleasant promenade. + +Randers is a pretty place, with many quaint thatched houses belonging to +the sixteenth, seventeenth, and eighteenth centuries. The Gudenaa, +Denmark's only river, skirts the town. This river is narrow and +slow-moving, as there are no heights to give it force. + +Hobro, situated on a fjord, wears an air of seclusion, lying as it does +far away from the railway-station. A sail on this fjord will bring us to +Mariager, the smallest town in Denmark. Renowned are the magnificent +beech-woods and ancient abbey of this tiny town. In the surroundings we +have a panoramic view of typical Jutish scenery--a charming landscape in +the sunset glow, forest, fjord, farmsteads, and moor affording a rich +variety of still life. + +Aalborg, the delightful old market town on the Limfjord, is fascinating, +especially at night, when its myriad lamps throw long shafts of light +across the water. Scattered through the town are many old half-timbered +houses. These beautiful buildings, with their cream-coloured rough-cast +walls, oak beams, richly carved overhanging eaves, and soft-red tiled +roofs, show little evidence of the ravages of time. The most famous of +these houses was built, in the seventeenth century, by Jens Bang, an +apothecary. The chemist's shop occupies the large ground-floor room, the +windows of which have appropriate key-stones. On one is carved a man's +head with swollen face, another with a lolling tongue, and similar +grotesques. + +To be an idler and watch the traffic going to and fro over the pontoon +bridge which spans the Limfjord is a delightful way of passing the time. +Warmed by the sun and fanned by the breezes which blow along the fjord, +you may be amused and interested for hours by the life that streams past +you. Occasionally the traffic is impeded by the bridge being opened to +allow the ships to pass through. Small vessels can in this way save time +and avoid the danger of rounding the north point of Jutland. If you +look at your map you will see that this fjord cuts through Jutland, thus +making a short passage from the Cattegat to the North Sea. + +Jutland north of the Limfjord is called Vendsyssel. Curious effects of +mirage may be seen in summer-time in the extensive "Vildmose"[7] of this +district. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND--II + + +As we pass through Vendsyssel homely farmsteads and windmills add a +charm to the landscape, while tethered kine and sportive goats complete +a picture of rural life. + +When we arrive at Frederikshavn we come to the end of the State railway. +This terminus lies close to the port, which is an important place of +call for the large passenger and cargo steamers bound for Norway and +other countries, as well as being a refuge for the fishing-fleet. + +A slow-moving local train takes us across the sandy wastes to Skagen, a +straggling village, with the dignity of royal borough, bestowed upon it +by Queen Margaret, in the fourteenth century, as a reward to the brave +fishermen who saved from shipwreck some of her kins-folk. Skagen is a +picturesque and interesting place, the home of many artists, as well as +a noted seaside resort. + +Broendum's Hotel, a celebrated hostelry, where the majority of visitors +and artists stay, is a delightfully comfortable, homely dwelling. The +dining-room, adorned with many specimens of the artists' work, is a +unique and interesting picture-gallery. + +On the outskirts of the town the white tower of the old church of Skagen +may be seen peeping over the sand-dunes. This "stepped" tower, with its +red-tiled, saddle-back roof, forms a striking feature in this weird and +lonely landscape. The church itself is buried beneath the sand, leaving +only the tower to mark the place that is called the "Pompeii of +Denmark," sand, not lava, being answerable for this entombment. It is +said that the village which surrounded the church was buried by a +sandstorm in the fourteenth century. This scene of desolation, on a +windy day, when the "sand fiend" revels and riots, is best left to the +booming surf and avoided by those who do not wish to be blinded. + +To the south of Skagen lie other curious phenomena created by this +"Storm King." The "Raabjerg Miler" are vast and characteristic dunes of +powdery sand in long ridges, like huge waves petrified in the very act +of turning over! In the neighbouring quicksands trees have been planted, +but refuse to grow. + +Viborg, the old capital of Jutland, possesses an historically +interesting cathedral. In the crypt stands the tomb of King Eric +Glipping, as well as those of other monarchs. The interior of the +cathedral is decorated with fine frescoes by modern artists. + +As we journey to Silkeborg we pass through the vast heathland, "Alhede," +and are impressed by the plodding perseverance of the heath-folk. The +marvellous enterprise of the Danes who started and have so successfully +carried out the cultivation of these barren tracts of land deserves +admiration. The convicts are employed in this work, planting, trenching, +and digging, making this waste land ready for the farmer. These men have +a cap with a visor-like mask, which can be pulled over the face at will. +This shields the face from the cold blasts so prevalent on these moors; +also, it prevents the prying eyes of strangers or fellow-workers. + +Many baby forests are being nursed into sturdy growth, as a protection +for farm-lands from the sand and wind storms. + +This monotonous-looking heath is not without beauty; indeed, it has a +melancholy charm for those who dwell on it. The children love it when +the heather is in bloom, and spend happy days gathering berries from out +of the gorgeous purple carpet. The great stacks of peat drying in the +sun denote that this is the principal fuel of the moor-folk. + +From Silkeborg we start to see the Himmelbjerget, the mountain of this +flat country. It rises to a height of five hundred feet, being the +highest point in Denmark. + +'Tis the joy and pride of the Danes, who select this mountain and lake +district before all others for their honeymoons! + +A curious paddle-boat, worked by hand, or a small motor-boat will take +us over the lake to the foot of Himmelbjerget. Our motor-boat, with +fussy throb, carries us away down the narrow river which opens into the +lake. The life on the banks of the river is very interesting. As we sail +past the pretty villas, with background of cool, green beech-woods, we +notice that a Danish garden must always have a summer-house to make it +complete. In these garden-rooms the Danes take all their meals in +summer-time. The drooping branches of the beech-trees dip, swish, and +bend to the swirl of water created by our boat, which makes miniature +waves leap and run along the bank in a playful way. How delightfully +peaceful the surrounding landscape is as we skim over the silvery lake +and then land! The climbing of this mountain does not take long. There +is a splendid view from the top of Himmelbjerget, for the country lies +spread out like a map before us. This lake district is very beautiful, +and when the ling is in full bloom, the heather and forest-clad hills +encircling the lakes blaze with colour. + +At Silkeborg the River Gudenaa flows through the lakes Kundsoe and Julsoe, +becoming navigable, but it is only used by small boats and barges for +transporting wood from the forests. The termination "Soe" means lake, +while "Aae" means stream. Steen Steensen Blicher, the poet of Jutland, +has described this scenery, which he loved so much, quite charmingly in +some of his lyrical poems. He sings: + + "The Danes have their homes where the fair beeches grow, + By shores where forget-me-nots cluster." + +This poet did much to encourage the home industries of the +moor-dwellers, being in sympathy with them, as well as with their lonely +moorlands. + +The old-time moor-dwellers' habitations have become an interesting +museum in Herning. This little mid-Jutland town is in the centre of the +moors, so its museum contains a unique collection from the homes of +these sturdy peasants. The amount of delicate needlework these lonely, +thrifty folks accomplished in the long winter days is surprising. This +"Hedebo" needlework is the finest stitchery you can well imagine, +wrought on home-spun linen with flaxen thread. Such marvellous patterns +and intricate designs! Little wonder that the best examples are +treasured by the nation. The men of the family wore a white linen smock +for weddings and great occasions. So thickly are these overwrought with +needlework that they will stand alone, and seem to have a woman's +lifetime spent upon them. Needless to say, these family garments were +handed down as heirlooms from father to son. + +Knitting, weaving, the making of Jyde pottery and wooden shoes (which +all wear), are among the other industries of these people. + +As we journey through Skjern and down the west coast to Esbjerg, the end +of our journey, we notice the picturesque attire of the field-workers. +An old shepherd, with vivid blue shirt and sleeveless brown coat, with +white straggling locks streaming over his shoulders, tends his few +sheep. This clever old man is doing three things at once--minding his +sheep, smoking his pipe, and knitting a stocking. The Danes are great +knitters, men and women being equally good at it. Many girls are +working in the fields, their various coloured garments making bright +specks on the landscape. Occasionally a bullock-cart slowly drags its +way across the field-road, laden with clattering milk-cans. We pass +flourishing farmsteads, with storks' nests on the roofs. The +father-stork, standing on one leg, keeping guard over his young, looks +pensively out over the moors, thinking, no doubt, that soon it will not +be worth his while to come all the way from Egypt to find frogs in the +marshes! For the indefatigable Dalgas has roused the dilatory Danes to +such good purpose that soon the marshes and waste lands of Jutland will +be no more. + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +THE PEOPLE'S AMUSEMENTS + + +"Have you been in Tivoli?" is the first question a Copenhagener would +ask you on your arrival in the gay capital. If not, your Danish friend +will carry you off to see these beautiful pleasure-gardens. Tivoli is +for all classes, and is the most popular place of amusement in Denmark. +This delightful summer resort is the place of all others in which to +study the jovial side of the Danish character. Even the King and his +royal visitors occasionally pay visits, incognito, to these fascinating +gardens, taking their "sixpenn'orth of fun" with the people, whose good +manners would never allow them to take the slightest notice of their +monarch when he is enjoying himself in this way. To children Tivoli is +the ideal Sunday treat. Every taste is catered for at Tivoli, and the +Saturday classical concerts have become famous, for one of the Danes' +chief pleasures is good music. Tivoli becomes fairyland when illuminated +with its myriad lights outlining the buildings and gleaming through the +trees. The light-hearted gaiety of the Dane is very infectious, and the +stranger is irresistibly caught by it. The atmosphere of unalloyed +merriment which pervades when tables are spread under the trees for the +alfresco supper is distinctly exhilarating. These gardens have +amusements for the frivolous also, such as switchbacks, pantomimes of +the "Punch and Judy" kind, and frequently firework displays, which last +entertainment generally concludes the evening. + +The Royal Theatre in Copenhagen is a national school of patriotism, and +the healthy spirit of its plays has an ennobling effect on the people. +Everything is Danish here, and Denmark is the only small nation in +Europe which has successfully founded a national dramatic art. The +"Moliere of the North," Ludwig Holberg, was the father of the Danish +drama, and the first to make the people realize the beauty of their own +language. This gifted Dane was a great comedy-writer, and had the +faculty of making his fellows see the comic side of their follies. + +The "Royal Ballet" played at this theatre is quite distinctive. +Bournonville, its creator, was a poet who expressed himself in motion +instead of words, and these "dumb poems" appeal strongly to the +Scandinavian character. This poet aimed at something more than +spectacular effects upon the people: his art consisted in presenting +instructive tableaux, which, while holding the attention of his +audience, taught them their traditional history. The delicate daintiness +of the Danish ballet everyone must appreciate. The exquisite and +intricate dances, together with the magnificent tableaux, are +accompanied by wild and magical music of Danish composition. +Bournonville ballets represent scenes from classical mythology, as well +as from ancient Scandinavian history, and the Danish people are much +attached to this Northern composer of ballet. "Ei blot til Lyst"--Not +only for pleasure--is the motto over this National Theatre door, and it +is in the Ballet School here that the young Danes begin their training. +These young folk take great pleasure in learning the beautiful dances, +as well as in the operatic and dramatic work which they have to study, +for they must serve a certain period in this, as in any other +profession. + +Another place of amusement which gives pleasure to many of the poorer +people is the Working Men's Theatre. Actors, musicians, as well as the +entire management, are all of the working classes, who are trained in +the evenings by professionals. The result is quite wonderful, and proves +the pleasure and interest these working people take in their tuition, +and how their artistic abilities are developed by it. On Sundays, and +occasionally in the week, a performance is given, when the working +classes crowd into the theatre to see their fellows perform. This +entertainment only costs sixpence for good seats, drama and farce being +the representations most appreciated. Notwithstanding that smoking is +prohibited during the performances--a rule which you would think no Dane +could tolerate, being seldom seen without pipe or cigarette--it is a +great success, and denotes that their love of the play is greater than +their pleasure in the weed. + + + + +CHAPTER X + +FARM LIFE--BUTTER-MAKING--"HEDESELSKABET" + + +Farming in Denmark is the most important industry of the kingdom, and +gives employment to half the nation. The peasant is very enlightened and +advanced in his methods; agricultural and farm products form the +principal exports of the country. England takes the greater part of this +produce. Three or four times a week the ships leave Esbjerg--this port +being the only Danish one not blocked by ice during some part of the +winter--for the English ports, laden with butter, bacon and eggs for the +London market. Now, why can the Danish farmer, whose land is poorer and +his climate more severe than ours, produce so much? Education, +co-operation and the help given by the State to small farmers lay the +foundation, so the Danes will tell you, of the farmer's prosperity. The +thrift and industry of the peasant farmer is quite astonishing. He is +able to bring up a large, well-educated family and live comfortably on +seven or eight acres of land; whereas in England we are told that three +acres will not keep a cow! The Danish farmer makes six acres keep two +cows, many chickens, some pigs, himself, wife and family, and there is +never any evidence of poverty on these small farms--quite the reverse. +The farmer is strong and wiry, his wife fine and buxom, and his children +sturdy, well-cared-for little urchins. All, however, must work--and work +very hard--both with head and hands to produce this splendid result. The +Danish farmer grows a rapid rotation of crops for his animals, manuring +heavily after each crop, and never allowing his land to lie fallow as we +do. On these small farms there is practically no grass-land; hedges and +fences are unnecessary as the animals are always tethered when grazing. +Omission of hedges is more economical also, making it possible to +cultivate every inch of land. There is nothing wasted on a Danish farm. +Many large flourishing farms also exist in Denmark, with acres of both +meadow and arable land, just as in England; but the peasant farmer is +the interesting example of the Danish system of legislation. The +Government helps this small holder by every means in its power to become +a freehold farmer should he be willing and thrifty enough to try. + +The typical Danish farmstead is built in the form of a square, three +sides of which are occupied by the sheds for the animals, the fourth +side being the dwelling-house, which is generally connected with the +sheds by a covered passage--a cosy arrangement for all, as in bad +weather the farmer need not go outside to attend to the animals, while +the latter benefit by the warmth from the farmhouse. + +The Danes would never speak crossly to a cow or call her by other than +her own name, which is generally printed on a board over her stall. The +cow, in fact, is the domestic pet of the Danish farm. In the winter +these animals are taken for a daily walk wearing their winter coats of +jute! + +These small farmers realize that "Union is Strength," and have built up +for themselves a marvellous system of co-operation. This brings the +market literally to the door of the peasant farmer. Carts collect the +farm produce daily and transport it to the nearest factories belonging +to this co-operation of farmers. At these factories the milk is turned +into delicious butter, the eggs are examined by electric light, and "Mr. +Pig" quickly changes his name to Bacon! These three commodities form the +most remunerative products of the farm. + +The Danish farmer is a strong believer in education, thanks to the +Grundtvig High-schools. Bishop Grundtvig started these schools for the +benefit of the sons and daughters of yeomen. When winter comes, and +outside farm-work is at a standstill, the farmer and his family attend +these schools to learn new methods of farming and dairy-work. The +farmer's children are early taught to take a hand and interest +themselves in the farm-work. The son, when school is over for the day, +must help to feed the live-stock, do a bit of spade-work or +carpentering, and perhaps a little book-keeping before bedtime. These +practical lessons develop in the lad a love of farm-work and a pride +in helping on the family resources. + +[Illustration: VAGT-PARADEN. LIFEGUARDS DRAWING UP OUTSIDE THE PALACE.] + +Butter-making is an interesting sight at the splendidly equipped +steam-factories, and we all know that Danish butter is renowned for its +excellence. When the milk is weighed and tested it runs into a large +receiver, thence to the separator; from there the cream flows into the +scalder, and pours over the ice frame in a rich cool stream into a +wooden vat. + +Meanwhile the separated milk has returned through a pipe to the waiting +milk-cans and is given back to the farmer, who utilizes it to feed his +calves and pigs. The cream leaves the vat for the churn through a wooden +channel, and when full the churn is set in motion. This combined churn +and butter-worker completes the process of butter-making, and when the +golden mass is taken out it is ready to be packed for the English +market. The milk, on being received at the factory, is weighed and paid +for according to weight. It takes 25 lbs. of milk to make 1 lb. of +butter. + +"Hedeselskabet" (Heath Company) is a wonderful society started by +Captain Dalgas and other patriotic Danes, in 1866, for the purpose of +reclaiming the moors and bogs. The cultivation of these lands seemed +impossible to most people, but these few enthusiasts with great energy +and perseverance set to work to overcome Nature's obstacles. These +pioneers have been so successful in their efforts that in less than half +a century three thousand square miles of useless land in Jutland have +been made fertile. Trees have been planted and carefully nursed into +good plantations, besides many other improvements made for the benefit +of the agriculturalist and the country generally. All along the sandy +wastes of the west coast of Jutland esparto grass has been sown to bind +the shifting sand, which is a danger to the crops when the terrible +"Skaj"[8] blows across the land with unbroken force. Thanks to the +untiring energies of this society for reclaiming the moors, Denmark has +gained land almost equal to that she lost in her beautiful province of +Schleswig, annexed by Prussia in the unequal war of 1864. + +In the town of Aarhus, the capital of Jutland, a handsome monument has +been raised to the memory of Captain Dalgas, the father of the movement +for reclaiming the moors, by his grateful countrymen. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +SOLDIERS AND SAILORS + + +Every Danish boy knows he must undergo a period of training as a soldier +or sailor when he reaches his twentieth year. This is because Denmark is +small and poor, and could not maintain a standing army, so her citizens +must be able to defend her when called upon. This service is required +from all, noble and peasant alike, physical weakness alone bringing +exemption. This six or twelve months' training means a hard rough time +for young men accustomed to a refined home, but it has a pleasant side +in the sympathy and friendship of comrades. The generality of conscripts +do not love their soldiering days, and look upon them as something to be +got over, like the measles! "Jens" is the Danish equivalent for "Tommy +Atkins," and "Hans" is the "Jack Tar" of Denmark. + +To see the daily parade of Life Guards before the royal palace is to see +a splendid military display. This parade the King and young Princes +often watch from the palace windows. The crowd gathers to enjoy the +spectacle of "Vagt-Paraden" (changing the guard) in the palace square, +when the standard is taken from the Guard House and borne, to the +stirring strains of the "Fane-Marsch," in front of the palace. As the +standard-bearer marches he throws forward his legs from the hips in the +most curious stiff way. This old elaborate German step is a striking +feature of the daily parade. When the guard is changed and the band has +played a selection of music, the same ceremony is repeated, and the +standard deposited again in its resting-place. Then the released guard, +headed by the band playing merry tunes, march back to their barracks +followed by an enthusiastic crowd. The fresh guard take their place +beside the sentry-boxes, which stand around the palace square. These are +tall red pillar-boxes curiously like giant letter-boxes! + +In the Schleswig-Holstein War of 1864, the last war Denmark was engaged +in, many Danish soldiers proved their valour and heroism in the unequal +encounter. These gallant men were buried in Schleswig, and as the Danish +colours were forbidden by the tyrannical Prussian conquerors, the loyal +Schleswigers hit upon a pretty way of keeping the memory of their heroes +green. The "Danebrog" was designed by a cross of white flowers on a +ground of red geraniums over each grave. In this way the kinsmen of +these patriots covered their last resting-place with the colours of +their glorious national flag, under which they fell in Denmark's +defence. In Holmens Kirke, Copenhagen, many heroes lie buried. This +building, originally an iron foundry, was converted into a church by +the royal builder, Christian IV., for the dockyard men to worship in, +and it is still used by them. This King's motto, "Piety strengthens the +realm," stands boldly over the entrance of this mortuary chapel for +famous Danes. + +As Denmark is a kingdom composed mainly of islands and peninsula, she +has a long line of sea-board to defend, and a good navy is essential for +her safety. The Danes being descendants of Vikings and sea-rovers, you +may be sure that their navy is well maintained. + +A boy who chooses the navy as his profession must leave school at the +age of fourteen years, and go for nine months' training on a warship as +a voluntary apprentice. At the end of this time he knows whether he +likes the profession well enough to join it--if so, two years' coaching +is given to enable him to pass the necessary examinations for entering +the Naval Academy. Here he is trained for four years, spending the four +summer months of each year in cruising. This Naval Academy, where +officers are trained, is a fine old institution, and prides itself on +the record of the famous men it has turned out. The present King of +Greece, and many other members of the Danish Royal Family, have also +been trained at this Academy. The Academy course is expensive, and as +promotion is slow, and pay small in the navy, the Lieutenants are +sometimes permitted to captain a ship in the merchant service for three +years. This they are glad to do, as it increases their pay and +knowledge of navigation. Denmark being too small to maintain a large +cruising fleet, these officers would have little opportunity of proving +their sailing powers without this arrangement. + +When cruising, the high spirits of the young cadets sometimes lead them +into mischief, thereby bringing trouble upon their heads. I knew a naval +captain who hit upon a very original and effective form of punishment +for wrong-doers. The cadet cap is a blue "tam-o'-shanter" with the usual +woolly bob of the same colour on the top. "The naughty boys shall have a +red bob," said the "Kaptejn," "and thus be branded for misdemeanour!" +The culprits disliked this badge intensely, I imagine mostly because +their comrades derisively admired the colour which made them +conspicuous. One day royalties were being shown over the ship, and a +young Princess asked "why some of the boys had those pretty red tufts on +their caps?" You may imagine the chagrin and confusion of the culprits; +scarlet faces and crimson tufts told their own tale! The boys, you may +be sure, thought twice in future before risking another penitential week +of branding and ridicule for breach of discipline. + +In Copenhagen one of the discarded warships is used as public restaurant +and training-school for ships' cooks. Here the sailor-men are taught +every branch of cooking and kitchen-work. When trained, these cooks are +employed on the merchant-ships, as well as on the men-of-war. + +Some interesting stories are told of the naval heroes of Denmark which +you will like to hear. Peder Tordenskjold is the Nelson of Denmark. This +man, besides being a great Admiral, was a most genial character, and had +a striking and original personality. Many true tales are told about this +hero which the young Danish lads never tire of hearing. There is a +favourite one which tells of the ingenious way by which he discovered +the weak points in his enemy's stronghold. Dressing himself as a +fisherman, he accompanied two other fishers in a little rowing-boat +laden with fish to the enemy's shores. Taking a basket of fish, he +mounted the hill to the fort, saying he had brought the fish for the +commandant. He was allowed to pass in to the fort with his fish, and, +pretending stupidity, kept losing his way--gaining knowledge +thereby--till he reached the commandant's residence. Gaining permission +from the latter to supply the garrison with fish, he inquired for how +many men he should provide. "Let me see," said the commandant, half to +himself, "a hundred guns--two hundred men; you may bring fish for a +hundred men." Tordenskjold then left the fort, having obtained all the +information he required, and returned to his boat. At this moment the +captain of one of the ships lying in the bay arrived on shore, and the +pretended fisherman at once accosted him, asking permission to serve his +men with fish. This being granted, he at once rowed to the ship, where +he soon disposed of his fish, and conversing with the sailors, he +gained the information that in two days' time there would be a great +festivity held on shore, at which most of them would be present. With +this valuable knowledge he returned to his own shore from the Swedish +coast, and laid plans which gave Denmark a victory and proved fatal to +the Swedes. In Holmens Kirke, where this hero lies buried, a splendid +black marble tomb has been erected to his memory by King Frederik IV. +Near by lies another naval hero, Niels Juel, whose gilt and copper +coffin is surmounted by a tablet which tells of his brave deeds. + +Captain Hvitfeldt, the hero of Kjoege Bay, blew up his ship with three +hundred men to save the Danish fleet from destruction. In the war of +1710, between Denmark and Sweden, this captain's ship, the _Danebrog_, +took fire. To save the ships which were being driven by the wind towards +his burning vessel, he and his gallant crew sacrificed their lives. + +Herluf Trolle was a Danish noble and a famous Admiral, who left all his +wealth to found a school for orphans. His noble wife, Fru Bergitta, was +greatly distressed that the Admiral's will could not be found, as she +was most anxious that his wishes, which were also her own, with regard +to the school, should be carried into effect. The Admiral's relatives +would inherit the property, and were already clamouring for it, when one +night Fru Bergitta had a dream. She dreamed she saw someone walking +round her husband's writing-table, attentively inspecting the legs. +These she examined on awakening, and found one to be hollow. +Discovering a secret spring, she pressed it, and beheld the will lying +in the hollow space. So Herluf Trolle's school was founded, and although +this brave old Admiral died from wounds received in battle centuries +ago, yet his school is considered to be one of the best at the present +day. + +[Illustration: SUNDAY IN THE ISLAND OF LAESOe.] + + + + +CHAPTER XII + +THE PEOPLE OF THE ISLES + + +One of the most storm-swept and barren of Denmark's many islands is the +island of Fanoe. Lying, as it does, exposed to the full force of the +North Sea gales, it yet serves to protect the harbour of Esbjerg from +these storms. It is eight miles long, and three miles at its broadest +part. A trim little steamer will carry you across from Esbjerg to +Nordby--the fishing town on the east coast of Fanoe--in twenty minutes. +Nordby is both quaint and picturesque. The low thatched houses, with +rough-cast, whitewashed walls, nestle close to each other for shelter +from the winds. + +The Fanoe women have a practical but peculiar costume; the +thickly-pleated skirt has a bright-coloured border, while the +close-fitting bodice is adorned with embroidery, and pretty antique +buttons. A folded cotton kerchief and accordion-pleated apron give a +daintiness to the whole dress. The head-dress, however, gives the most +singular finish to the costume. A dark, checked-bordered handkerchief +tied over a stiff, cambric frame, entirely envelops the head. The four +ends of this handkerchief are tied in an odd way, two being left +upstanding like rabbits' ears! This striking head-dress gives the Fanoe +wife a fantastic appearance. When the good-natured, smiling faces of +these women are hidden behind a mask, the combination of dress and mask +makes them awesome-looking folk. The men of the island are nearly all +fishermen; the women are the farmers, and it is to protect their faces +from the blinding sand-storms, while working on the land, that these +masks are worn. This mask obliterates all comeliness, for only the eyes +peep out from the weird face-protector. + +This island of heath, dune, and quicksand is wild and romantic. The +cultivated fields are protected by sand-hills, and belts of stunted, +wind-swept trees that afford some slight protection to the crops. The +island belongs to the people, who cultivate it assiduously. The courage +and perseverance of these women agriculturalists is rewarded by fair +crops, notwithstanding an adverse climate. + +At the south end of the island, far away from any dwelling, is the +interesting "Fuglekoejerne,"[9] where three or four hundred wild-duck are +taken in a day during the season. Decoy-ducks are used for this purpose. + +The west side of the island is the most fashionable watering-place in +Denmark. Large hotels and pretty villas line the shore, and here the +well-to-do Danes inhale bracing sea-breezes. + +On a windy day this western shore is not amusing. Clouds of blinding +sand whirl high in the air, while the booming surf rolls and plunges on +the beach with deafening roar, and makes rank and fashion fly to shelter +in hotel or villa till the storm is over. Visitors in summer and storms +in winter have it all their own way on this west coast--the people of +Fanoe trouble it not. + +Bornholm, situated in the middle of the Baltic, is both beautiful and +fertile. Its products are very valuable to Denmark. From here comes the +clay of which the exquisite Copenhagen porcelain is made. Here, too, the +granite for building the country's defences and docks is quarried. I +fancy if you were to ask a young Dane what Bornholm is most famed for he +would say, "Turkeys," for the island supplies the Copenhagen market with +these birds. + +The chief town, Roenne, is charming, with its many low-roofed houses, +which overlook the Baltic. It is noted for its terra-cotta ware, clocks, +and Museum of Antiquities. + +Most of the towns are upon the coast. Four singular round churches, +built of granite, were formerly used as places of refuge for the people +when beset by pirates. These "Rundkirker" are peculiar to Bornholm. + +A high festival is celebrated every year on the anniversary of the day +when the inhabitants succeeded in throwing off the Swedish yoke, which +they had borne for a short time in the seventeenth century with +resentment. + +Hammershus Castle, on the northern extremity of Bornholm, was built in +the thirteenth century. There is a sad tale connected with this romantic +castle, about a Danish noble and his wife. This noble, Corfitz Ulfeldt, +was imprisoned there for treason. His beautiful wife, Eleonora, the +favourite daughter of Christian IV., accompanied him, preferring +imprisonment with him to liberty without him. After the Count died, +Eleonora, who had a mortal enemy in Queen Caroline Amalia, was sent by +the latter to the "Blaataarn"[10] of Slotsholmen, Copenhagen, and there +incarcerated for twenty-two years. The illustrious Eleonora was only +liberated on the death of the vindictive Queen, but the long years of +captivity--without reason--had wrecked her life. + +Laesoe is a small island in the Cattegat, the inhabitants of which are +mainly farmers and fishermen, and the old women wear a particular +costume for Sunday, which is called the "church costume." + +The people of Amager are great market-gardeners. They are of Dutch +extraction. Christian II., after flying from his country, took refuge in +Holland, and some of the Dutch helped him in trying to regain his +throne. For this service he gave his Dutch followers the island of +Amager. The descendants of these Dutch people still retain their old +customs and characteristics. Clattering about in wooden shoes, the old +women, in quaint costume, may be seen driving their geese down the +picturesque streets to the meadows. Besides being market-gardeners and +florists, these Amager folk rear and fatten the geese for the Christmas +market. + +The natural beauty of the island of Moeen is striking, and unlike the +rest of Denmark. "Moeen's Klint" are great, jagged white cliffs rising +abruptly from the sea. Enchanting beech-woods thickly crown the summit, +giving distinctive and unusual beauty to it. From Sommerspiret, the +highest point, we have an extensive view over the Ostersoeen and Koejge +Bay, where the famous victory over the Swedes was won by Niels Juel in +1677. + +In Denmark the town-crier beats a drum to draw attention to the notice +he is about to give. + +Danish postmen present a gorgeous appearance, in red coats, with smart +cloaks of the same brilliant hue for winter wear. These and the bright +yellow mail-vans, which they drive sometimes, arrest attention, and give +importance to the carriers of His Majesty's mails. + +In many of the houses the "Forhoejning" is still used. This is a raised +platform close to the window, on which the lady of the house sits to do +her embroidery. While she is here she can follow all that goes on in the +street below by an ingenious arrangement of oblique convex mirrors fixed +to the outside of the window, and reflecting the life in the streets +both ways. + +The numerous pretty articles made of amber, which adorn the ladies' +dressing-tables, and of which beads and ornaments for the girls are +composed, are of local manufacture, amber being found in quantities on +the west coast of Jutland. + +In the islands of Funen and Seeland there are many grand old +manor-houses belonging to the nobility, whose fine estates give +employment to many peasants. A story is told of a certain noble, +Christian Barnekow by name, who saved his King, Christian IV., by his +heroic self-sacrifice. The King had lost his horse, and was on the point +of being killed or made prisoner when Barnekow came to his rescue. +Giving the King his own horse, he said, "I give my horse to my King, my +life to the enemy, and my soul to God." A street in Copenhagen is called +after this brave nobleman "Kristenbernikovstrade." + +It is characteristic of the Danes to run words into each other, and +streets in Denmark often have prodigiously long names. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +FISHERMEN AT HOME AND AFLOAT + + +The class of people most lauded by their own and other nations is that +of the brave and hardy fishermen of Denmark. These men are always +willing to man the life-boat and to risk their lives to save those in +peril on the dangerous coast of Jutland. Although hundreds of ships are +wrecked on this dreaded "Jernkyst" (iron coast), their crews are +invariably saved by these courageous men. The whole length of the west +coast of Jutland is bleak and exposed to the storms and fogs of the +North Sea. Not one single harbour of refuge can be found between Esbjerg +and the Skaw. Dangerous sandbanks and massive cliffs guard the coast, +making navigation both difficult and hazardous. All along this perilous +coast life-saving apparatus of the newest and best type is stored in the +life-boat houses placed at intervals close to the seashore. On stormy +nights the watching sentinels summon by telephone the fishermen of the +tiny hamlets near. At sound of a rocket the distressful cry, "A wreck, a +wreck!" runs over the telephone, and immediately brave hearts and hands +are putting off to the rescue, while trembling women anxiously wait +their husbands' return with warm restoratives for the saved. These +fishermen's wives are brave too, for it is anxious work waiting and +watching. It is not to be wondered at that this merciless and cruel +coast is dreaded by all seamen. How thankful they must feel when they +see the great lighthouse at Grenen--the northernmost point of +Jutland--and can signal "All's well!" "Alt vel! passeret Grenen" flash +the lights across the water, and both passengers and crew breathe a +little more freely if it has been a stormy passage. Something like +eighty thousand vessels pass by this coast in a year, so you may be sure +the gallant fishermen of Denmark who live on the iron coast have plenty +of rescue work to do. + +[Illustration: SKAGEN FISHERMAN NEAR THE TOWER OF BURIED CHURCH.] + +You should see this coast on a stormy day, more especially at Grenen, +where those two mighty seas, the Skagerack and Cattegat, meet. When the +tempest rages here, far as eye can see a long ridge of seething, tossing +water denotes the meeting-place of the currents. The great "white +horses" in battle array fight, plunge, and roar--each striving for the +mastery which neither gains. This wrestling-match is a splendid +spectacle to those who are safe on shore, also to those at sea if the +day is clear, because they can then give the reef a wide berth. Tossing +spray is thrown high into the air and wind-borne to the shore, so even +at a distance from the waves you may have a salt shower-bath should you +be able to "keep your legs" against the fury of the gale. The screaming +gulls which fly around, dipping and rising, enjoying as only +"storm-birds" can the roar and tumult of these tempestuous waters, +enhance the fierce loneliness of the scene. This awe-inspiring +"Nature-barrier" saddens you--even while you exult in the madness of its +fury--when you think what it means on a foggy night to the poor mariner. +What a comfort for the seafarer to know that there is such a famous race +of fishermen here, willing and ready to man the life-boat and rescue +them from the angry, engulfing waters! You would never guess these seas +could be otherwise than kind when you enter their smiling depths for a +swim on a calm, sunny day. How gentle and invigorating they can be the +fishermen as well as the visitors know, and any morning you may see the +former returning from their daily dip with dripping heads and towels +along the shore. Somehow these fishermen are always picturesque. In the +summer evening, sitting or lying on the sunlit beach, smoking their +cutty-pipes and waiting for the time to launch their boats for the +fishing, they make an impressive picture. Kindly blue eyes and +weather-beaten faces look at you from under the sou'westers, while blue +jerseys, long sea-boots with curled-over tops and oil-skins, complete +the sea-going outfit. Fully equipped, they charm the eye of the most +fastidious, and it is little wonder that they have become subjects for +famous artists and poets. + +These fishermen are very devout, and before launching their boat they +all stand round it with clasped hands and bowed heads, offering up a +short, silent prayer for help and protection on these dangerous waters. +Then, pushing the boat out into the water, they jump in while it +floats--sea-boots getting wet in the process--and wave farewell to their +children on the shore, who cry in return "Farvel Fa'er!" + +Lars Kruse, the late captain of the life-boat at Skagen, has had a +beautiful monument raised to his memory, and his son will show you with +great pride the cups and medals he left behind as mementoes of his brave +deeds. These medals have been presented by many different nations whose +sea-farers have been saved by him. Amongst these is one given by Queen +Victoria. + +Captain Larsen, a well-known mariner, who, on retiring from his post on +one of the light-ships, settled at Old Skagen, has left a unique +collection to the village. This now constitutes a museum of exquisitely +carved furniture, much of it inlaid with ivory, marbles and metals in +dainty designs, all made by this old sailor during the last twelve years +of his life--a wonderful record of industry. Old Skagen is a quaint +fisher-village, nestling behind the sand-dunes, trying to shelter itself +from the sand and sea-storms to which these shores are subjected. + +Many of these fisher-folk are farmers also, tilling and cultivating the +heath-lands which lie beyond the village. The fisher cottages are quite +pretty, with thatched or red-tiled roofs, white or buff rough-cast +walls, green painted doors and windows, with black painted foundations +which protect them from the sand. Bright flowering plants in the windows +and the neat and clean appearance of the whole betoken the joy and +comfort that reigns in the fisherman's home. Many household duties are +performed at the cottage door in the sandy enclosure surrounding the +little homestead. Here the old men mend the nets, keeping a watchful eye +on the babies, while the women clean and salt the fish, hanging them up +in rows to dry in the sun. In these garden enclosures, also, many +quaintly pretty miniature houses may be seen erected on tall poles. +These are to encourage the starlings and other songsters to settle in +them, as there are no trees. Hen-roosts and outhouses are adorned with +the name-boards of wrecked boats washed up on the shore, while discarded +boats turned over and tarred make the roofs of these curious shelters +worthy of royal hens! + +The older fishermen have a safe and effective way of trawling from the +strand. Putting out in a small boat, taking their net with them, to +which a long rope is attached--the end of this being left in charge of +the fishermen on the shore--they row gaily over the water, paying out +the rope as they go. When the limit of this rope is reached, the men +drop their weighted net overboard and pull for the shore, bringing with +them another attached rope which is paid out till they reach the strand. +When they have landed and the boat is beached, half a dozen men or more +take hold of each rope--these are fastened to each side of the +submerged net--and begin hauling it to the shore. The straining muscles +of the men as they march up the beach with a strong, steady, overhand +pull on the rope denotes that this is heavy work. It is a grand sight! +As the net nears the shore the gleaming, glittering mass of fish can be +seen leaping and jumping in vain endeavour to escape from their prison, +only the smaller fry succeeding. At last the net with its silver load +reaches the shore with the noise as of a great wave breaking upon the +beach, which is caused by the efforts of the fish to gain their freedom. +The best fish are picked out and the others returned to the sea, while +the gulls swoop down with querulous cry and gobble all that float on the +surface of the water. These fishermen have a prejudice against skate, +and use it only for bait. + +St. Clement is the patron saint of Danish fishermen, and many of the +churches in the coast towns are dedicated to him. + +As the Cathedral of Aarhus is dedicated to St. Clement, the Skaw +fishermen have given an exquisite model of a ship to the church. This +ship is a perfect representation in miniature of a man-of-war. It was +made in Holland for Peter the Great, but the ship which carried it was +wrecked near Grenen, and the model was saved by the Skaw fishermen. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +YOUTHFUL DANES AT WORK AND PLAY + + +Denmark is renowned for its educational system and for its schools. +These schools are all under Government control, and meet the wants of +every class. The authorities are upheld by the parents, both being +determined there shall be no such thing as an ignoramus in Denmark, so +whether the children are educated at home or sent to school, they must +begin lessons at the age of seven. If they have a governess at home the +parents must give a guarantee to the authorities that the governess is +efficient and capable of giving the standard education to the children. +Should parents elect to take their children abroad during the school +term, they must notify their intention, undertaking that a teacher shall +accompany them and lessons continue while away. Shirking lessons is +quite an impossibility for little Danes, as everybody thinks that +education comes before all else, so parents do not encourage idleness or +extra holidays during the school year. + +School attendance is compulsory for all children between the ages of +seven and fourteen. The hours are not long nor wearisome, as the lessons +are arranged with a view to holding the attention of young minds during +the period of instruction. The classes are small, even in the free +schools, never more than thirty-five pupils to a teacher, and generally +less. The lesson lasts forty minutes, and then there is an interval for +play. The thorough education of the pupils for their future work in life +is considered, so lessons in writing, reading, and arithmetic, in the +Kommune schools, are varied by tailoring lessons for boys, and cookery +for girls, after they are ten years of age. At every school gymnastics +play an important part--pleasant lessons these are for all--but perhaps +the lesson the boys most delight in is their instruction in Sloeyd. Each +lad has his carpenter's bench with necessary tools, and as we know every +boy is happy when making or marring with hammer and nails, I am sure you +will think these must be enviable lessons. I have seen some charming +models as well as useful things made by the boys--a perfect miniature +landau, complete in every detail, benches, bureaux, carts, tables, +chairs, besides many other serviceable articles. Besides this +pleasure-work at school, the boys, if they are farmers' sons, have +practical lessons at home by helping their father on the farm. The +authorities being anxious to help the farmer, they allow him to keep a +boy at home half the day for instruction in farm-work, but the other +half must be spent at school. The prizes at the municipal schools not +infrequently consist of clothes, watches, clocks, or tools, all of which +are worked for eagerly by the pupils. + +The boys and girls of Denmark begin early with gymnastic exercises, and +soon become sturdy little athletes from sheer love of the exhilarating +practice. All Danes pride themselves--and with good reason--on their +national athletic exercises. At the Olympic Games, held at the Stadium +in London, the Danish ladies carried away the gold medal by their fine +gymnastic display. This was a triumph with so many competitors in the +field. It is an amusing sight to see the Danes at a seaside resort +taking their morning swim; each one on leaving the water runs about on +the sun-warmed beach, and goes through a gymnastic display on his own +account, choosing the exercise he considers most calculated to warm and +invigorate him after his dip. The children require no second bidding to +follow father's example, and as they emerge from the water breathless, +pantingly join in the fun. Sons try to go one better than the father in +some gymnastic feat which the latter's stoutness renders impossible! The +merry peals of laughter which accompany the display speak eloquently of +the thorough enjoyment of all the bathers. + +Yachting in Denmark is not merely a pleasure for the rich, it is +inexpensive, so all classes and every man capable of sailing a boat can +enjoy it. In the summer-time the Sound and other waters seem alive with +the multitudes of white sails and speeding craft of all sizes. The +Oresund Week, as the Royal Yacht Club's regatta-week is called, is the +time of all others for yachtsmen to display their skill, and a gay +event in the Copenhagener's year. The pleasant waters of Denmark are +beloved of yachtsmen. Sailing round the wooded islands, you are +impressed by their picturesque beauty, which is seen to advantage from +the water. One is not surprised that this popular pastime comes first +with every Danish boy, who, whether swimming, rowing, or sailing, feels +perfectly at home on the water. Everybody cycles in Denmark. +Cycle-stands are provided outside every shop, station, office, and +college, so that you have no more difficulty in disposing of your cycle +than your umbrella. + +[Illustration: WINTER IN THE FOREST.] + +Football is a summer game here--spirited matches you would think +impossible at this season--but the Danes have them, and what is more, +they will inform you that they quite enjoy what appears to the spectator +a hot, fatiguing amusement. Cricket has few attractions for the Danish +lads, but that is because they cannot play, though their schoolmasters +and parents would have them try. All things English are much admired, +and when a Dane intends to do a thing he generally succeeds, so we can +only suppose he is too indifferent about cricket--although it is an +English game--to excel. + +Golf and hockey are also played, and "bandy"--_i.e._, hockey on the +ice--is a favourite winter sport. A "bandy" match is quite exciting to +watch. The players, armed with a wooden club, often find the ice a +difficulty when rushing after the solid rubber ball. This exhilarating +game is known in some parts of the world as "shinty." The Danes are +proficient skaters, and of late years an artificial ground for winter +sport of all kinds has been made in the Ulvedal, near Copenhagen. Here +they have "bandy" matches, ski-ing, and tobogganing, as well as other +winter games. Fox-hunting is unknown in Denmark, but frequently foxes +are included in the sportsman's bag when shooting. These are shot +because it is necessary to keep Mr. Reynard's depredations under +control. Trotting-matches are held on Sunday on the racecourse near +Charlottenlund, and horse-racing takes place too. Lawn-tennis and +croquet are very popular, but the latter is the favourite pastime of the +Danish ladies. + + + + +CHAPTER XV + +INGEBORG'S JOURNEY THROUGH SEELAND + + +Funen, the island which lies between the Great and Little Belts, is +known as the "Garden of Denmark," on account of its beauty and +fertility. In Odense, the capital, Ingeborg had lived happily all the +fifteen summers of her life. Now she was to have an unexpected treat. +Her grandfather intended taking her with him on the morrow to see some +of the historical places in Seeland. Ingeborg loved history, and had +given her grandfather much pleasure by the knowledge she displayed when +showing him over her own church, St. Knud's. This ancient Gothic Church +is the finest specimen of mediaeval architecture in Denmark. St. Knud, +the grand-nephew of Canute the Great, was slain before the altar while +praying for his people. This brave King could have saved himself by +flight, but would not, lest his subjects should suffer at the hands of +his enemies. He was canonized by the Pope, and his brother built the +church to his memory. Besides being the shrine of St. Knud, this church +is the burial-place of King Christian II. and his Queen, as well as of +King Hans and his Consort. The beautiful altar-piece, given by Queen +Christina, is of the most exquisite workmanship, and took the artists +many years to execute. + +Ingeborg's excitement was great when she crossed from Nyborg. She +remembered that an army once crossed this water on foot, so severe was +the winter, and that ice-breakers are still used occasionally. The girl +wished it was winter as she watched for the first time the huge +paddle-wheels of the steam-ferry ploughing through the waters of the +Great Belt. By the time Korsoer was reached, Herr Nielsen, her +grandfather, had made acquaintance with a student who was returning to +his college at Soroe, the town which they intended making their first +stopping-place. The student, whose name was Hans, informed them that he +lived at Ribe, a quaint old town of South Jutland, left very much to +memories and the storks, but possessing a fine twelfth-century +Cathedral. The college at Soroe was founded by Ludvig Holberg, the father +of Danish comedy, who left his fortune and library for that purpose. +Hans was proud of belonging to this college, as it had educated many men +of letters famous in Danish history. + +In the Cistercian Church of Soroe, Bishop Absalon, the founder of +Copenhagen, lies buried. It is said that this Bishop's spirit appears, +with menacing attitude, if anyone desecrates the place by irreverence. +Ludvig Holberg is also buried in this cloister church, as well as three +Danish Kings. + +Ingemann the poet spent most of his time at this charming town, which +stands on the lake of the Soroe Soe. In the luxuriant beech-woods which +surround the lake, Saxo Grammaticus, the first historian of Denmark, was +wont to wander. Both these celebrated men also lie in the old church, +which Ingeborg felt was a fitting resting-place for the noble dead. + +On the advice of Hans, Herr Nielsen took his young grand-daughter to see +the old convent church of Ringsted. Here many Danish Kings were buried +in the twelfth, thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. The interesting +Romanesque Church of Kallundborg was also visited. This Church, with its +four octagonal towers and a square tower in the middle, forms a Greek +cross. This is the most unique specimen of mediaeval architecture in the +North. + +Ingeborg had long looked forward to seeing Roskilde Cathedral, and the +day was bright and sunny when they arrived at the sleepy little town on +the Roskilde Fjord. This stately Cathedral, with its two tall pointed +spires, is called the "Westminster Abbey" of Denmark. It is the +burial-place of the Danish Royal Family: thirty-three Kings and many +Queens rest in it. A beautiful alabaster tomb marks the resting-place of +Queen Margrethe, the famous Queen who united the three Crowns--Norway, +Sweden, and Denmark--and was ever ambitious for the glory and +development of these countries. She ruled with wisdom and wonderful +diplomacy, and was the most powerful Queen Denmark ever had. She has +been called the "Semiramis of the North." Though the three crowns are +still on the shield of Denmark, the other two kingdoms were lost to her +in the sixteenth century. Queen Margrethe was the daughter of Valdemar +IV., known as "Atterdag," because of his favourite proverb: "I Morgen er +der atter en Dag."[11] This powerful monarch kept his subjects in such +incessant turmoil by his numerous wars for acquiring territory "that +they had not time to eat"! The Renaissance chapel erected by Christian +IV., in which his tomb stands, is very beautiful. This popular monarch, +alike celebrated as architect, sailor, and warrior, was one of the most +impressive figures in Danish history. The mural paintings of the chapel +represent scenes in the life of this great King. + +Ingeborg was glad she remembered her history, and could tell her +grandfather so much as they went through the Cathedral. He, however, +informed her that Frederik VII. was the last of the Kings of the +Oldenburg line, which had been on the throne of Denmark for over four +hundred years. + +The sarcophagus of the beloved Christian IX., father of many European +crowned heads, including Queen Alexandra of England, is still kept +covered with fresh flowers. This King, whose memory is so revered in all +countries, inaugurated a new dynasty in Denmark. The curious old clock +at the western end of the cathedral interested Ingeborg, and she watched +with delight, when it struck the hour of noon, St. George, mounted on +his fiery steed, with many groans and stiff, jerky movements, kill the +dragon, which expired with a gruesome death-rattle! + +In the thirteenth century this quiet town of Roskilde was the capital, +and the archiepiscopal see of Denmark. An English Bishop, William of +Roskilde, is supposed to have built the Cathedral. + +We will now follow our little friend and her grandfather to +Frederiksborg Castle. The castle, with its many towers and pinnacles +reflected in still waters, stands in the middle of a lake. This handsome +Dutch Renaissance building is now used as an historical museum. Many of +the Danish Kings have been crowned in its magnificent chapel. Wandering +through the splendid rooms of the castle, Ingeborg could read the +history of her country in a very pleasant and interesting manner. The +collection being confined to one period for each room made instruction +an easy affair for the grandfather. Beginning with King Gorm the Old and +Canute the Great, it comprises all periods up to the last century. + +The autumn residence of the Royal Family, Fredensborg Castle, was the +next place of interest visited. This Castle of Peace was built to +commemorate the end of the war between Denmark and Sweden. "Fred" means +"peace" in Danish, and, indeed, this place proves a home of peace to +tired Royalty. Its park is considered the most beautiful in Denmark. The +magnificent avenues of lime-trees are lined by marble statues of +peasants in national costumes, Faroese, Icelandic and Norwegian, as well +as those of Denmark. + +The Open-Air Museum at Lyngby, with its ancient farm and peasant +buildings, the interiors of which are fitted up just as they used to be, +gave Ingeborg a peep into the past and old-time Denmark. Here she saw a +curious rolling-pin hanging in the ingle-nook of the farmhouse from the +village of Ostenfeld. This wooden pin, so her grandfather told her, was +a Clogg Almanac or Runic Calendar. It had four sides, each marking three +months, large notches denoting Sundays, small ones showing week-days. +Saints' days were marked by the symbol of each saint. He had seen some +of these old calendars in the Ashmolean Museum at Oxford, when he had +been in England, which were relics of Danish government there. These +quaint and curious Clogg Almanacs were used throughout Scandinavia, +small ones made of horn or bone being for the pocket. + +But here we must say good-bye to Ingeborg and her grandfather, as after +seeing Kronborg Castle and Elsinore they will return by the beautiful +coast-line to Copenhagen, there to enjoy many of the sights we have seen +in "dear little Denmark." + + + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote 1: Thank you for the food.] + +[Footnote 2: May it agree with you.] + +[Footnote 3: Spoon-food.] + +[Footnote 4: Luncheon.] + +[Footnote 5: Be so good.] + +[Footnote 6: Birthday child.] + +[Footnote 7: Impenetrable swamp.] + +[Footnote 8: The sharp, dry, north-west wind which blows in the spring.] + +[Footnote 9: Retreat of wild-duck.] + +[Footnote 10: Blue Tower.] + +[Footnote 11: To-morrow comes another day.] + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DENMARK*** + + +******* This file should be named 20107.txt or 20107.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/0/1/0/20107 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +https://www.gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at https://www.gutenberg.org/about/contact + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. +To donate, please visit: +https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + diff --git a/20107.zip b/20107.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e5720fe --- /dev/null +++ b/20107.zip diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c624ef9 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #20107 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/20107) |
